BAEDEKER’S GUIDE BOOKS. Latest ^ of pt. an ns aiv^ays on hand and ma 'ed to ':n> ad J -ess on receipt strated with nurncrous f'lons, Panoramas, 12 mo net. c UNIVERSn . ^ 'LINOISLIBR IBANA-CHA’ OAK STR" r» — ^ 914.5 B144 s ,2 22393 /. Cop^ ^ OVly 2003- UNIVERSITY C ILLINOIS LIBRA AT 'JRBANA-CHArv'; OAK STREE-. LIBRARY Olivet Nazarene College. KANKAKEE, lUb TJnaiiiJiio lOT^-roT nirn Ave., rrew xoncr Sole Agents for the JJnited States. BAEDEKER’S GUIDE BOOKS. Latest ^ of pt. an •ns aj^ays on hand and ma !ed strated with numerous 12m-j ^ to *:n) cw/‘'ess on receipt ipr, Plann, Panoramas, NE'P. c UNIVERSIl . , 'LINOISLIBR "vBANA-CHA' OAK STR" r» - 914.5 B144S1, 22393 Loi't '^°tS Sulc^loos UNIVERSITY 0 ILLINOIS LIBRA AT 'JRBANA-CHANr? OAK STREEl LIBRARY Olivet Nazarene College KANKAKEE, ILLa unaisiirro rsuttirrirDirc- isoxRSTTDsr-iTrr nirn "aTB., xiew ror^ Sole Agents for the United States, ! SOUTHERN ITALY AND SICILY. COMPARATIVE MONEY-TABLE. Approximate Equivalents. Italian. American. English. Francs. Centesimi. Dollars. Cents. Pounds. 1 j Shillings. Pence. 5 1 V2 — 25 — 5 — — 21/2 — 50 — 10 — — 5 — 75 — 15 — — *774 1 — — 20 — — 93/4 2 — — 40 — 1 774 3 — — 60 — 2 5 4 — — 80 — 3 272 5 — 1 — — 4 — 6 — 1 20 — 4 93/4 7 — 1 40 — 5 71/2 8 — 1 60 — 6 5 9 — 1 80 — 7 21/2 10 — 2 — — 8 — 20 — 4 — — 16 — 25 — 5 — 1 — — 100 20 — 4 . Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with, funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/southernitalysic00karl_0 SUi t(r«^ 'SitriftlY^rrV raJkcmla'i^p^ '^•i.raolo )lfo di Maiifredonia ^>>Jtiki ' nLs^\^ 2^ri BpNTWft, ^ ( ^J^icvla rjL\xt'ailr^/7->/ou/‘^ j jt,M P,!iicos»'v‘-;/^ jD 1 TAHANTO oBii/tirm , F.S/^ii'k Loiigit'P’ Orieirtale 15”da Greeimricli ^ ' rwwr ITALY HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY EARL BAEDEKER THIRD PART: SOUTHERN ITALY AND SICILY, with Excursions to the LIPARI ISLANDS, MALTA, SARDINIA, TUNIS, AND CORFU With 25 Maps and 17 Flans LIBRAHIf Olivet Nazarenif (Pollegfl — kankakeC twt- Twelfth Revised Edition LIBRARY PANVif luff iiNtiiih'ip. LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. LONDON : DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W. : 1896. ll Rights Reserved. ‘Go, little book, God send thee good passage. And specially let this he thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear. Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all’. PREFACE. 2.^303 The objects of the Handbook for Italy, which consists of three volumes, each complete in itself, are to supply the traveller with the most necessary information regarding the culture and art of the people he is about to visit, as well as regarding the natural features of the country, to render him as independent as possible of the services of guides and va- ets-de-place, to protect him against extortion, and in every way to aid him in deriving enjoyment and instruction from his tour in one of the most fascinating countries in the world. The Handbook will also, it is hoped, be the means of saving the traveller many a trial of temper ; for there is probably no country in Europe where the patience is more severely taxed than in some parts of Italy. The whole work is based on the personal acquaintance of the Editor or his friends with the places described, most of which he has repeatedly and carefully explored. As, however, changes are constantly taking place, he will highly appreciate any communications with which travellers may kindly favour him, if the result of their own observation. The information already received from numerous correspond- ents, which he gratefully acknowledges, has in many cases proved most serviceable. Hotel-bills, with annotations show- ing the traveller’s opinion of his treatment and accommoda- tion, are particularly useful. The Handbook for Southern Italy and Sicily, which now appears for the twelfth time , has been thoroughly revised and considerably augmented, and the information regarding Naples and its environs in particular has been carefully veri- fied. Its contents have been divided into four sections (Naples and its Environs; E. and S.E. Districts of S. Italy ; Sicily ; Sardinia , Malta , Tunis, and Corfu)^ each of which may be removed from the volume and used separately if de- sired. The account of the climatic and sanitary conditions of Naples given at p. xxii is from the pen of a thoroughly com- petent observer , and while dissipating some of the exagger- ated notions which are prevalent regarding its unhealthiness, may afford some useful hints for the traveller’s mode of life in that town. The article on Ancient Art by Prof. R. KekuU of Berlin has been adapted for the use of English travellers with the kind assistance of Sir J. A. Crowe, the eminent historian of art , and will be found suggestive by visitors to the museums of Naples and Palermo or the ruins of Pompeii. The Maps and Plans , on which special care has been bestowed, will abundantly suffice for the use of the ordinary vi PREFACE. traveller. Di^Map of Sicily^ drawn by Frof. Kiepert of Berlin, is a reproduction on a reduced scale of the map of the Italian Ordnance >Survey ; the rivers which flow all the year round are printed in blue, those which are generally dry in brown. Heights are given in English feet (1 Engl. ft. = 0,3048 metre!, and Distances in English miles. Populations are stated in accordance with the latest official returns. Hotels. The inns of S. Italy and Sicily, with the exception of those of Naples, Palermo, and a few other towns, are sadly behind the requirements of the age ; but the Editor has in- dicated by asterisks those which he has reason to believe, from his own experience as well as from information supplied by travellers (comp. p. xix), to be comparatively respectable, clean, and reasonable. The value of these asterisks, it need hardly be observed, varies according to circumstances, those prefixed to town hotels and village inns signifying merely that the establishments are good of their kind. At the same time the Editor does not doubt that comfortable quarters may often be obtained at inns that he has not recommended or even mentioned. The charges in the most frequented places have a constant tendency to rise, but those of the last few years are approximately stated in the Handbook for the trav- eller’s guidance. To hotel - proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour- tesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his com- mendation, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against persons representing themselves as agents for Bae- deker’s Handbooks. Abbreviations. R. = room, also route; B. = breakfast; d^j. = dejeuner a la fourchette ; D. = dinner; S. = supper; L. = light; A. = at- tendance. — N. = north, northern , etc. ; S. = south, southern, etc. ; E. = east, etc. ; W. = west, etc. — r. = right; 1. = left; min. = minute; hr. = hour. — M. = English mile ; ft. = Engl, foot ; fr. = franc, c. = centime. The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before the principal places on railway-routes and high- roads indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. CONTENTS, Page Practical IntroductioD. Climate and Health .... ix Political and Art History xxvi I. From Rome to Naples. Naples and its Environs. 1. From Rome to Naples via Cassino and Capua .... 1 2. From Rome to Naples via Terracina and Capua ... 11 3. Naples 19 4. Pozzuoli, Baiae, Misenum, Cumae 90 5. Procida and Ischia 103 6. From Naples to Pompeii. Herculaneum 108 7. Mount Vesuvius 112. — 8. Pompeii 118 9. Castellammare, Sorrento, and Capri 141 10. The Gulf of Salerno. Paestum, Amalfi 158 11. From Naples to Benevento via Nola and Avellino . . 172 II. E. AND S. Districts of S. Italy. 12. From Terni to Solmona through the Abruzzi .... 176 13. From Rome to Castellammare Adriatico via Solmona . 181 14. From Avezzano to Roccasecca (Naples) 186 15. From Ancona to Foggia (Brindisi) 188 From Foggia to Manfredonia, Lucera, etc 192, 193 16. From Foggia to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula . . 196 17. From Naples to Foggia (Ancona) 204 18. From Naples to Brindisi via Metaponto and Taranto . . 207 19. From (Naples) Metaponto to Reggio 214 20. From Sibari to Cosenza 218 21. From Naples via Battipaglia to Reggio 220 22. From Naples to Palermo by Sea 224 III. Sicily. 23. Palermo 245. — 24. Environs of Palermo .... 267 25. From Palermo to Trapani, Segesta, and Selinus . . . 276 26. From Castelvetrano (Selinus) to Girgenti 288 27. From Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle . . . 290 28. Girgenti 293. — 29. From Palermo and Girgenti to Catania 298 30. From Girgenti to Syracuse via Canicatti and Licata . . 303 31 . From Palermo to Messina by the Coast 307. — 32. Messina 313 33. The Lipari Islands 322 34. From Messina to Catania. Taormina 325 35. From Giarre to Catania 332. — 36. Catania .... 335 37. Mount .^tna 340 38. From Catania to Syracuse 347. — 39. Syracuse . . . 349 IV. Sardinia. Malta. Tunis. Corfu. 40. Sardinia 363 41 . Excursion to Malta 378 viii CONTENTS. Route Page 42. Excursion to Tunis. Carthage 381 43. Excursion to Corfu 389 List of Artists 394 Index 398 Maps. 1. Map of Southern Italy, from Rome to Capo Palinuro (1 : 3,350,000), facing the title-page. 2. Environs of Monte Cassino (1 : 50,000), p. 5. 3. General Map of the Environs of Naples (1 : 400,000), p. 90. 4. Western Environs of Naples (1:100,000), p. 92. 5. The Islands of Procida and Ischia, p. 104. 6. Eastern Environs of Naples. Mt. Vesuvius, p. 112. 7. Peninsula of Sorrento and Island of Capri, p. 144. 8. Environs of La Cava, Salerno, and Amalfi, p. 162. 9. District between Salerno and P^stum (1 : 286,000), p. 163. 10. Environs of Taranto (1 : 50,000), p. 210. 11. District of Metapontum (1 : 50,000), p. 210. 12. General Map of Calabria (1 : 350,000), p. 214. 13. Environs of Palermo (1 : 75,000), p. 266. 14. District between Calatafimi and Segesta (1 :50,000), p. 278. 15. District of Selinus (1 : 50,000), p. 279. 16. Environs of Girgenti (1 : 50,000), p. 293. 17. Environs of Messina (1 : 400,000), p. 312. 18. Environs of Taormina (1 : 50,000), p. 327. 19. Mount ^tna (1 : 300,000), p. 340. 20. Environs of Syracuse (1 : 50,000), p. 348. 21. Map of Sardinia (1 ; 1,350,000), p. 364. 22. Malta, Gozzo, Comino (1 : 500,000), p. 380. 23. Environs of Tunis (1 : 250,000), p. 381. 24. Map of Sicily, with the Lipari Islands (1 : 800,000), after the Index. 25. Railway Map of Italy, at the end of the Handbook. Plans. 1. Naples (1:20,000), p. 18. — 2, 3.Museo Nazionale at Naples, groundfloor p. 68, upper floor p. 69. — 4. Pozzuoli (1 : 25,000), p. 93. — 5, 6. Pompeii, general plan (1 : 8500), p. 119, plan of ex- cavations (1 : 4200), between pp. 118, 119. — 7. House of Pansa at Pompeii, p. 118. — 8. P^stum (1 : 28,000), p. 163. — 9. Bari (1 : 10,000), p. 198. — 10. Palermo (1 : 13,000), p. 244. — 11, 12. Museo Nazionale at Palermo , groundfloor p. 260 , upper floor p. 262. — 13. Acropolis of Selinus, p. 281. — 14. Messina (1 : 20,000), between pp. 312, 313. — 15. Catania (1 : 20,000), p. 334. — 16. Syracuse (1:9000), modern town, p. 349. — 17. Environs of Valetta (1 : 64,000), p. 380. INTliODUCTION. Page 1. Travelling Expenses. Money ix II. Period of Tour. Language x III. Passports. Custom House. Luggage xii IV. Public Safety. Begging xii V. Intercourse with Italians. Gratuities xiii VI. Conveyances xiv VII. Hotels. Private Apartments xvii VIII. Restaurants, Cafes, etc xix IX. Sights, Theatres, Shops xxi X. Post Office. Telegraph xxii XI Climate and Health of Naples xxii XII. History of Ancient Art, by Prof. R. Kekule .... xxvi History of the Kingdom of Naples xliv “Thou art the garden of the world, the home Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree^ E’en in thy desert, what is like to thee? Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste More rich than other climes’ fertility, Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced. Byron. I. Travelling Expenses. Money. Expenses. The cost of a tour in Southern Italy and Sicily depends of course on the traveller’s means and habits, but it may be stated generally that his expenses need not exceed those in- curred in the more frequented parts of the Continent. The average expenditure of a single traveller may be estimated at 15-25 francs per day, or at 10-12 francs when a prolonged stay is made at one place, while those who are acquainted with the language and habits of the country may reduce their expenses to still narrower limits. Persons travelling as members of a party also effect a considerable saving by sharing the expense of guides, carriages, etc. When, how- ever, ladies are of the party, the expenses are unavoidably greater. Money. The French monetary system is now used throughout the whole of Italy. The franc (lira or franco) contains iOO centesimi ; 1 fr. 25 c. = Is. = 1 German mark (comp, the money -table at p. ii). A piece of 5 c. is called a soldo (or sow). The gold and silver coins of France, Switzerland, Belgium, and Greece circulate in Italy, but they are very unwillingly accepted by the people in S. Italy, and in Sicily they are refused. The Italian silver coins of 1894 are not current out of Italy. In copper (hronzo or rame) there X MONEY. are coins of 1, 2. 5, and 10 eentesimi, and in nickel a piece of 20 c. In silver there are pieces of 1 / 2 ? 1? and 6 fr. ; and in gold, pieces of 10 and 20 fr. In consequence of the present financial stringency, however, both the gold and the silver coins have disappeared almost entirely from circulation. Gold coins should he changed for notes at a money-changer’s, as the premium (ca. 16 per cent) is lost in hotels and shops. The traveller should he on his guard against base coin, worn pieces, Swiss silver coins with the seated figure of Helvetia, coins from the papal mint, and Roumanian and South American coins ; and he should also refuse Greek copper coins and torn notes. Even Italian coins issued before 1863 (‘Re Eletto’) are liable to refusal. The recognized paper currency in Italy consists of the Buoni di Cassa (silver warrants) for 1 and 2fr., the Biglietti di Stato (treasury notes) for 5, 10, and 25 fr., and the banknotes of the Banca Nazionale nel Regno d" Italia^ the Banca Nazionale Tos- cana^ the Banca Toscana di Credito (all of which are now guaranteed by the Banca d’ltalia, which has not yet issued notes bearing its own name), the Banca di Napoli^ and the Banca, di Sicilia. Other notes {Banca Romana, etc.) should be refused. Best Money foe, the Tour. Circular Notes or Letters of Credit^ issued by the principal English and American banks, are the proper medium for the transport of large sums, and realise the most favourable exchange. English and German banknotes also realise their nominal equivalent in the principal towns. Sovereigns are received at the full value (about 26-27 fr. in 1895) by the princi- pal hotel-keepers; but in remote districts, especially in Sicily, all foreign money is refused. Exchange. Foreign money is most advantageously changed in the larger towns , either at one of the English bankers or at a re- spectable money-changer’s ( ^camhiavaluta' ). Those money-changers who publicly exhibit a list of the current rates of exchange are the most satisfactory. The exchange is effected more advantageously at Rome than at Naples or any of the other towns in S. Italy. The traveller should always stipulate for an abundant supply of small notes and silver, as it is often difficult to change those of large amount. Besides silver and small notes, 1-1 1/2 fr. in copper should also be carried in a separate pocket or pouch. Money Orders payable in Italy, for sums not exceeding 10?. , are granted by the English Post Office at the following rates: not exceeding 2?., 6c?.; 5?., Is.; 7?., Is. 6c?.; 10?., 2s. These are paid in gold. The identity of the receiver must sometimes be guaranteed by two well-known residents or by a Libretto di Recognizione Postale (1 fr. ; with 10 coupons), obtained at any head post-office, but an exhibition of the passport often suffices. The charge for money-orders granted in Italy and payable in England is 40 c. per 1?. sterling. 11. Period of Tour. Language. Season. The best time for Naples, and still more for other parts of 8. Italy and Sicily, is spring, from the end of March to the end PERIOD OF TOUR. XI of May, or autumn, from tlie end of September to the middle of November. September is usually oppressively hot, with numerous thunder-storms, and is therefore the worst month for the tourist. The rainy winter months had better be devoted to Rome. The hot season may be spent at some of the charming summer-resorts in the environs of Naples, such as Sorrento, Castellammare, and Cava dei Tirreni, but is unfavourable for travelling in the South of Italy. The scenery indeed is then in perfection, and the long days are hailed with satisfaction by the enterprising traveller ; but he will soon experience the enervating effects of exposure to the fierce rays of an Italian sun. These effects are produced, not so much by the intensity, as by the protracted duration of the heat, the sky being frequently cloudless, and not a drop of rain falling for many weeks. At p. 29 the traveller will find various plans for excursions in the environs of Naples, and at p. 226 are others for a tour in Sicily. Naples is reached overland from London in 50 hrs. (fares llZ. 4«. 5d., 71. 17s. 2d.). By sea it is about 9 days from London (fares 1st cl. about 13;. 135., 2nd cl. 8 ;. 85 .; return 21;.). Steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Co. leave London every fortnight; those of the Orient and Pacific Co. leave London every alternate Friday. — Steamers of the North German Lloyd leave Southampton every fortnight for Genoa and Naples (fares to Genoa: 1st cl. 9;. 45., 2nd cl. 6;. 175.; to Naples: 12;. I 5 ., 7l. I 85 . 6c;.). These fares, which will soon be increased by about ll. IO 5 . in each case, include railway-fare from London to Southampton. American travellers may reach S. Italy direct by the steamers of the North German Lloyd and the Hamburg- American Line., plying two or three times a month from New York to Naples and Genoa (1st cl. fares $90-275). Agents in Genoa, Leupold Fratelli., Piazza S. Siro 10; in Naples, Aselmeyer., Pfister, d: Co.^ Strada Piliero 2. The London agents are: Keller, Wallis, & Co., 32 Cockspur Street, S.W., and 65 Gracechurch Street, E.C. The New York offices are: 2 Bowling Green (North-Germ. Lloyd) and 37 Broad- way (Hamb.-Amer. Line). Language. The time and labour which the traveller has bestowed on the study of Italian at home will be amply repaid as he proceeds on his journey, and more particularly in Southern Italy and Sicily. It is quite possible for Englishmen to travel in the regions around Naples and Palermo, perhaps with the aid of a little French, but in this case the traveller cannot conveniently deviate from the beaten track, and is moreover constantly exposed to gross extortion. Those , therefore , who desire to derive instruction from their tour and to confine their expenditure within moderate limits will find a slight acquaintance with the language t of the country indispensable, i A few words on the pronunciation may be acceptable to persons unacquainted with the language. C before e and i is pronounced like the English ch ; g before e and ; like j. Before other vowels c and g are hard. Ch and gh., which generally precede e or e, are hard. Sc before e or i is pronounced like sh; gn and gl between vowels like nyi and lyi. The vowels «, e, i, 0 , u are pronunced ah, a, ee, o, 00 . — In addressing persons of the educated classes ‘Ella’ or ‘Lei’, with the 3rd pers. sing., should always be employed (addressing several at once, ‘loro’ with the xii PUBLIC SAFETY. III. Passports. Custom House. Luggage. Passports. Passports are not absolutely required in Italy, but it is unwise not to be provided with one of these documents, as it may occasionally prove useful. Registered letters, for example, are not delivered to strangers unless they exhibit a passport as a guar- antee of their identity. The countenance and help of the British and American consuls can, of course, be extended to those persons only who can prove their nationality. Excursions into the country in the southern provinces should not be undertaken without a passport. Foreign Office passports may be obtained in London through C. Smith & Son, 63 Charing Cross, E. Stanford, 26 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross, W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street, or Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand (charge 25., agent’s fee Is. 6d.). Custom House. The examination of luggage which takes place at the Italian custom-houses on the arrival of the traveller hy land or sea, even when the vessel has come from another Italian port, is usually very lenient. Tobacco and cigars are the articles most sought for. Weapons of all kinds are liable to confiscation (see p. xiii). The ‘dazio consume’, or municipal tax levied on com- estibles in many Italian towns, seMom of course requires to be paid by ordinary travellers. An assurance that their luggage contains nothing liable to duty generally suffices to prevent detention. Luggage. If possible, luggage should never be sent to Italy by goods’ train, as it is liable to damage, pilferage , and undue custom-house detention. If the traveller is obliged to forward it in this way, he should employ a trustworthy agent at the frontier and send him the keys. As a rule, however, the traveller will find it advisable, and less expensive, never to part from his luggage, and always to superintend the custom-house examination in person (comp. p. xv). IV. Public Safety. Begging. Public Safety is on as stable a footing in those parts of S. Italy, Sicily, and Sardinia likely to be visited by travellers, as in countries to the N. of the Alps. Travellers will naturally avoid lonely quarters after night-fall ; and this precaution is especially advisable in Naples. The isolated cases of highway robbery heard of from time to timjB are scarcely distinguishable from similar crimes in other countries. Strangers, whose persons and property are unknown, have practically nothing to fear from ‘Brigantaggio’. In the towns the policemen are called Quardie di Pubblica Sicurezza (dark coat, with 3rd pers. pi.). ‘Voi’ is used in addressing waiters, drivers, etc., ‘tu’ in familiar conversation only by thcfse who are proficient in the language. ‘Voi’ is the common mode of address employed by the Neapolitans, but is generally regarded as inelegant or uncourti ous. Baedeker's Conversation Dictionary (,in four languages^ price 35.), Bae- deker's Manual of Conversation (35.), and Part III of The A. B. C. Series of (’onversution Books (Dulau & Co., I.t.) will all be found useful by the beginner in Italian. INTERCOURSE WITH ITALIANS. xiii white cap and buttons), and in the country Carabinieri (black uni- form, with red facings, and cocked hats). The Quardie Municipali of Naples (yellow buttons, numbered caps) are entrusted with the control of the traffic. — No one may carry weapons without a licence. Concealed weapons (sword-sticks ; even knives with spring-blades, etc.) are absolutely prohibited. Segging still continues to be one of those national nuisances to which the traveller must habituate himself. The best mode of get- ting rid of importunate applicants is to bestow a donation of 2 c. or at most 5 c., or else firmly to decline giving with — ‘niente’, or a gesture of disapproval. — The misplaced generosity of some travel- lers, especially to children, has encouraged a habitual importunity that seriously interferes with the enjoyment of the beauty of the country, especially in the neighbourhood of Naples and in some parts of Sicily. Still more reprehensible than the bestowal of an occasional gratuity upon children, is the foolish practice of ‘scattering’ copper coins to be struggled for by the Street Arabs, etc. y. Intercourse with Italians. Gratuities. Travelling in South Italy differs essentially in some respects from that in France, Germany, and Switzerland, or even in North Italy and Rome, chiefly owing to the almost invariable necessity for bargaining with inn-keepers, cab-drivers, boatmen, and others of a similar class. The system of fixed prices is being gradually in- troduced, but it gains ground much more slowly in Southern than in Northern and Central Italy. On the principal routes, and especially in Naples, the insolence of the mercenary fraternity has attained an almost incredible pitch. Where tariffs and fixed charges exist, they should be carefully consulted. In other cases where an average price is established by custom, the traveller should make a precise bargain with respect to the service to be rendered, and never rely on the equity of the other party. ‘‘Patti chiari, amicizia lungd! is a good Italian proverb. In the following pages the average prices of hotel accommodation and other items are stated with all possible accuracy, and although liable to fluctuation, will often prove a safeguard against gross extortion. The equanimity of the trav- eller’s own temper will greatly assist him if involved in a dispute or bargain, and he should pay no attention whatever to vehement gesticulations or an offensive demeanour. The slighter his know- ledge of the Italian language is, the more careful should he be not to involve himself in a war of words, in which he must necessarily be at great disadvantage. As a rule, the traveller may depend gn the data in the Handbook. Where information is required, it should be sought from printed tariffs, from fellow-travellers, policemen, respectably dressed persons present, occasionally from landlords, but sel do m or never from waiters. Gratuities. In a country where trifling donations are incessantly xiv CONVEYANCES. in demand, the traveller should always be provided with an abund- ant supply of copper coin. Drivers, guides, porters, and donkey- attendants invariably expect, and often demand as a right, a gratuity (buona mano^ mancia^ da bere^ bottiglia^ caffe, sigdro, maccheroni), varying according to circumstances from 2-3 sous to a franc or more, in addition to their hire. The traveller need not scruple to limit his donations to the smallest possible sums , as liberality is often a fruitful source of annoyance and embarrassment. VI. Conveyances. Eailways. The remarks made in the first two volumes of this Handbook on the railways of Northern and Central Italy apply on the whole to the railways of Southern Italy also. The rate of trav- elling is slow, especially on the lines to the S. of Naples and in Sicily ; and the trains are often late, so that express trains only can be relied upon to make connection. The first-class carriages are fairly comfortable, the second resemble the English and French, while the third class is chiefly frequented by the lower orders. Among the expressions with which the railway-traveller will soon become familiar are — ^pronW (ready), ^partenza' (departure), ‘ai cambia treni’- (change carriages), ‘esscre in coincidenza' (to make con- nection), and *‘uscita' (egress). The station-master is called ^capo- stazione'. Smoking compartments are labelled ^pei fumatorV, those for non-smokers ‘e vietato di fumare\ Sleeping-carriages (coupe a letti) are provided on all the main lines at a small extra charge. Railway time is that of Central Europe, t When about to start from a crowded station, the traveller will find it convenient to have as nearly as possible the exact fare ready before taking tickets ('‘fare il biglietto'), ‘Mistakes’ are far from uncommon on the part of the ticket-clerks. In addition to the fare a tax of 5 c. is payable on each ticket, and the express fares are about 10 per cent higher than the ordinary. It is also important to be at the station early. The booking-office at large stations is open 1 hr., at small stations V 4 "V 2 before the departure of the trains. Holders of tickets are alone entitled to enter the waiting-rooms. At the end of the journey tickets are given up at the uscita, except in the case of the very large stations , where they are collected before the passengers alight. The traveller is recommended to ascertain the weight of his lug- gage, if possible, before going to the station, in order to guard against imposition (1 kilogramme = about 21/5 Ihs.). No luggage is f The most trustworthy time-tables are those contained in the Indi- catore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate, etc., published at Turin monthly hy the Fratelli Pozzo (with map, price 1 fr.-, larger ed. 2 fr.), and in Italia^ Orario del Movimenio Trent e Piroscafi (1 fr.), published at Florence by Gius. Arnaboldi. Smaller editions, serving for ordinary purposes, are issued at 50 and 20 c. CONVEYANCES. XV allowed free except small articles taken by the passenger into his carriage; the rate of charge is 41/2 c. for 100 kilogrammes per kilo- mMre. Porters who convey luggage to and from the carriages are suftlciently paid with a few sous, where there is no lixed tariff, and their shameless attempts at extortion should be quietly ignored. Those who intend to make only a short stay at a place, especially when the town or village lies at a distance from the railway, should leave their heavier luggage at the station till their return (dare in depositOj or depositare, 10 c. per day per cwt. or fraction of a cwt.). During the last few years several robberies of passengers’ luggage have been perpetrated in Italy without detection, and articles of great value should not be entrusted to the safe-keeping of any trunk or portmanteau, however strong and secure it may seem (comp. p. xii). The enormous weight of the trunks used by some travellers not un- frequently causes serious and even lifelong injury to the hotel and railway porters who have to handle them. Travellers are therefore urged to place their heavy articles in the smaller packages. Through Tickets to different parts of Italy are issued in Lon- don (at the principal stations of the southern railways ; by Messrs. Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, Messrs. Gaze, 142 Strand, etc.), in Paris, and at the principal towns in Germany and Switzerland. They are generally available for 30 days. Circular Tickets (viaggi circolari) for the S. Italian lines are issued under the conditions already explained in the first two parts of the present Handbook, and in the time-tables. The Hndicatore Ufficiale’ gives plans of the various tours, which extend as far as Sicily. Travellers provided with circular tickets from Northern Italy to Rome, may obtain, in connection with these, return-tickets from Rome to Naples (41 fr. 90, 29 fr. 35 c., 18 fr.), which are valid for the period for which the circular-ticket is taken. Circular tickets require to be stamped at each fresh starting-point with the name of the next station at which the traveller intends to halt. If, therefore, the traveller leaves the train before the station for which his ticket has been stamped he must at once apply to the capostazione for recognition of the break in the journey (^accertare il cambiamento di desiinazione'). When the traveller quits the prescribed route, intending to rejoin it at a point farther on, he has also to procure an '' annotazione' at the station where he alights, enabling him to resume his circular tour after his digression at another station which must be mentioned on the ticket Cvale per riprendere alia stazione . , . il viaggio interrotto a .. .). If this ceremony be neglected the holder of the ticket is required to pay the whole fare for the omitted portion of the route. — Tickets for tours of 20 days or more may be extended for a period not exceeding half of the original duration , on payment of one per cent of the original price for each day of the extension. Return Tickets d'andata e ritorno) are generally av.ail- able for one day only, except those issued on Saturday or the eve of a festival, which are available for 2-3 days. It should also be ob- served that if the traveller alights at a station short of his destin- ation he forfeits the rest of his ticket for the direction in which he is proceeding. In returning the ticket is not available unless he starts from the end-station for which the ticket was issued. xvi CONVEYANCES. Steam Tramways (Tramvie a Vapore) are in use in Naples and some other parts of S. Italy. Steamboats. A voyage on the Mediterranean or Adriatic is highly recommended to the traveller in fine weather. If the vessel plies near the coast, the voyage is often entertaining ; and if the open sea is traversed, the magnificent Italian sunsets, lighting up the deep blue water with their crimson rays, present a scene not easily forgotten. Rough weather is not very often to be appre- hended in summer. Most of the routes in this Handbook are served by steamers of the Navigazione Oenerale ItaUana, the head office of which is in Rome. In the Grulf of Naples, between Messina and the Lipari Islands, etc. , the service is performed by the boats of less important companies. Tickets should be purchased by the traveller in person at the office of the company. First and second class family-tickets, for not fewer than three persons, are issued by all the companies at a reduction of 20 per cent on the passage-money, but not on the cost of food. A child of 2-10 years pays half-fare, but in this case must share the berth of its attendant. Two children are entitled to a berth for themselves. — Enquiry should be made beforehand as to the punctuality of the vessel, as it sometimes happens in smaller ports that the shipment and unshipment of goods prolong the voyage for a day or more beyond the advertised time. The First Class saloons and berths are comfortably and elegantly fitted up, those of the Second tolerably. Second-class passengers, like those of the first, have free access to every part of the deck. Officers of the Italian and French armies, up to and including those of the rank of captain, are entitled to second-class berths only. When ladies are of the party it is of course advisable to travel first-class. In the steamers of the smaller companies above mentioned the distinction between first and second class is not very rigidly insisted on, and hence gentlemen travelling alone often take second-class tickets. Luggage. First-class passengers are allowed 70 kilogrammes (156 lbs. Engl.), second-class 45 kilogr. (100 lbs.), but articles not intended for per- sonal use are prohibited. Food of good quality and ample quantity is generally included in the first and second-class fares. Bdje^ner d la fourchette, served at 10, con- sists of 3-4 courses , table-wine , and coffee. Dinner is a similar repast between 5 and 6 o’clock. Passengers who are too ill to partake of these repasts are provided with lemonade , etc. , gratuitously. Refreshments may of course be procured at other hours on payment (cup of coffee 25 c.). Fees. The steward expects 1 fr. for a voyage of 12-24 hrs., but more if the passenger has given unusual trouble. Embarkation. Passengers should be on board an hour before the advertised time of starting. The charges for conveyance to the steamboat (usually 1-1 V 2 fr- for each person with luggage) are fixed by tariff at all the seaports, and will be found in the Handbook. Passengers should there- fore avoid all discussions on the subject with the boatmen, and simply direct them to row ‘al Vaticano’, ‘alia Bella Venezia’, or whatever the name of the vessel may be. On the way, the boatmen often make demands extravagantly in excess of the tariff, such as, ‘Signore, sono cinque lire!’ — to which the passenger may simply reply, ‘avanti’, or if necessary he may threaten to call in the aid of the ‘Capitaneria del Porto’ or superintendent of the port. On arriving at the vessel, payment should not be made until the traveller with all his luggage is deposited on deck. The passenger gives up his ticket on board, receives the number of his berth, superintends the stowing away of his luggage, and finally repairs to the deck to observe the progress of the vessel as it quits the harbour, of which a fine view is generally obtained. UOTELJS. xvii Diligences. Southern Italy is now so well provided with railways that only those travellers who seek a more particular acquaintance with the country and its people have occasion to use the Diliyenze or Vetture Corrieri. On the more frequented routes a Carriage with one horse may generally be hired for t/ 2 -l fr., and on the less fre- quented for less than per English mile. Walking Tours. An Italian never walks if he can possibly drive ; to him it is an inscrutable mystery how walking can afford pleasure. In the more frequented districts, however, such as the environs of Naples, the inhabitants are accustomed to this mania of travellers from the north ; and the numerous sections of the Italian Alpine Club, founded for the exploration of the Italian Alps as well as of the Apennines, have also introduced the habit among the native cultivated classes. Prolonged and fatiguing walking-tours, such as are undertaken in more northern climates, will be found impracticable in Italy. Cool and clear weather should if possible be selected, and exposure to the scirocco studiously avoided. The height of summer is totally unsuitable for tours of this kind. Biding. A horse (cavallo), mule (mulo), or donkey (sommaro ; Neapol. ciuco; Sicil. vettura, applied to all three animals), between which the difference of expense is trifling, often affords a pleasant and cheap mode of travelling, especially in mountainous districts, where the attendant (pedone) also acts as a servant for the time being. Side-saddles for ladies are also generally procurable. A bargain should be made previously , tutto compreso , a gratuity being added if the traveller is satisfied. The donkey-drivers have an unpleasant habit of inciting their animals to the top of their speed when passing through a town or village, and it is as well to warn them beforehand that their ‘mancia’ will suffer if they do not go quietly through the streets. The traveller should in all cases make his arrangements person- ally with the coachmen, boatmen, donkey-drivers, or guides ; for the intervention of waiters, landlords, portiers, or similar agents simply adds considerably to the cost, VII. Hotels. Private Apartments. First Class Hotels, comfortably fitted up, are to be found at Naples and some of the places in its vicinity, at Brindisi, Palermo, Messina, Catania, and Girgenti, the landlords of many of them being Swiss or Germans. Rooms fr., bougie 75c. -1 fr., attendance 1 fr. (exclusive of the portier and frequently also of the ‘facchino’ or boots), table-d’hote 4-6 fr., and so on. The charge for dinner does not include wine, which is usually dear. For a prolonged stay an agreement may generally be made for pension at a more moderate rate. Visitors are expected to dine at the table-d’hote ; otherwise they are charged more for their rooms. Meals served at special hours or in the travellers’ apartments are charged considerably more. Baedeker. Italy III. 12tli Edition. b xviii PRIVATE APARTMENTS. A charge of I-IV 2 is generally made for the use of the hotel- omnibus from the station; a cab is therefore often cheaper and more expeditious, while it offers the additional advantage of enabling the traveller to proceed at once elsewhere if he is dissatisfied with the accommodation offered in the hotel he may have selected first. Dur- ing the height of the season, the best hotels, especially in Naples, are sometimes so full that rooms cannot always be obtained by writ- ing in advance. It is therefore advisable to prepay the answer, to prevent disappointment on arrival. The numerous Pensions in or near Naples, often kept by English or German ladies , are usually comfortable , clean , and moderate. Passing travellers are received at many of them even for a day or two. As the price of dejeuner is usually (though not universally) included in the fixed daily charge, the traveller must either sacrifice some of the best hours for sight-seeing and excursions, or pay for a meal he does not consume. Second Glass Inns may usually be found, especially in the neighbourhood of Naples, offering a reasonable amount of comfort and convenience. It is usual in these houses to arrange for a pension- charge (even for a single day), in which wine is generally included. In the larger towns, as in Northern and Central Italy, these inns generally have a trattoria in connection with them. Room light and attendance 1 fr. per day. Enquiry as to charges, however, should always be made beforehand ; and in bargaining for a room the ‘servizio e candela’ should not be forgotten. An extortionate bill may even be reduced though no previous agreement has been made, but never without long and vehement discussions. Attendance is generally included in the charge for rooms ; but if not, 1 fr. per day may be divided between the waiter and the facchino, or less for a prolonged stay. — Travellers should not omit to provide themselves with matches (comp. p. 28). The recommendations of landlords with reference to hotels in other towns should be disregarded, as they are rarely disinterested. Money and other valuables should never be left in the traveller’s apartment, but should either be carried on the person or deposited with the landlord in exchange for a receipt. Private Apartments are recommended for a prolonged stay. A distinct agreement as to rent should be made beforehand. When a house or a whole suite of apartments is hired, a written contract on stamped paper should be drawn up with the aid of someone aquainted with the language and customs of the place (e.p. a banker), in order that all legal formalities may be duly observed and ‘mis- understandings’ prevented. To sign such a contract without reliable advice is distinctly dangerous. For single travellers a verbal agree- ment with regard to attendance, linen, stoves and carpets in winter, a receptacle for coal, and other details, will generally suffice. Comp. p. XXV. RESTAURANTS. XIX The popular idea of cleanliness in Southern Italy is behind the age, dirt being perhaps neutralised in the opinion of the natives by the bril- liancy of their climate. The traveller will rarely sutler from this short- coming in the better hotels and lodgings even of the second class ; but those who quit the beaten track must be prepared for privations. In the village- inns the pig (animale nero) is a privileged inmate, and the poultry are freely admitted. Iron bedsteads should if possible be selected, as being less infested by the enemies of repose. Insect-powder {^polvere insetticida^ or contro gli insetti^ or Keating‘'s ; better procured before leaving home) or camphor should be plentifully sprinkled on the beds and on the traveller’s clothing in places of doubtful cleanliness. The zanzdre^ or mosquitoes, are a source of great annoyance, and even of suffering, in summer and autumn. Windows should always be carefully closed before a light is introduced into the room. Light muslin curtains (zanzarieri) round the beds, masks for the face, and gloves are used to ward off the attacks of these pertinacious intruders. The burning of insect-powder over a spirit-lamp is also re- commended, and pastilles for the same purpose may be purchased at the principal chemists’. A weak solution of carbolic acid is efficacious in allaying the irritation caused by the bites. A list of the Italian names of the ordinary articles of underclothing (la hiancheria) will be useful in dealing with the washerwoman: shirt (linen, cotton, woollen), la camicia (di tela^ di cotone^ di lana); collar, il solino ; cuff, it polsino; drawers, lemutande; woollen undershirt, una fla~ nella^ or giuha di Jlanella; petticoat, la sottana ; stocking, Za calza; sock, la calzetta; handkerchief (silk), il fazoletto (di seta). To give out to wash, dare a hucato {di hucato., newly washed); washing-list, nota; washerwoman, laundress, la lavandaia., la stiratrice. Hotel-keepers who wish to commend their houses to British and Amer- ican travellers are reminded of the desirability of providing the bed-rooms with large basins, footbaths, plenty of water, and an adequate supply of towels. Great care should be taken to ensure that the sanitary arrange- ments are in good order, including a strong flush of water and proper toilette-paper; and no house that is deficient in this respect can rank as first-class or receive a star of commendation, whatever may be its excel- lences in other departments. VIII. Restaurants, Cafes. Restaurants of the first class do not exist in Southern Italy ; even in Naples good French cookery is to be found only in the large hotels. The national Trattorie., however, are sometimes very good ; and even in the smaller towns the traveller will have little difficulty in finding a tolerable, though not always scrupulously clean, establishment of this kind. In Sicily a trattoria is usually called Caffe. They are generally open from 11 a.m. (for the Collazione or dejeuner), and are usually closed about 8p.m. Dinner ("Pmnzo) is usually taken between 5 and8 : either alia carta for 1V2"^ sometimes aprezzo fisso for 2-5 fr. Italian customers have no hesitation in ordering away ill- cooked or stale viands, and they often inspect the fish or meat before it is cooked and make a bargain as to the price. Wine is usually brought in open bottles (p. xxi). The diner calls for the bill with the words ‘il conto’. The waiter (cameriere) expects a gratuity of 2-5 soldi. If too im- portunate in his recommendations or suggestions, he may be checked with the word ^hasta\ — Residents for some time in a town should arrange to pay a monthly subscription (^pensione' J at a lower rate, or, as is customary in Sicily, stipulate for a reduction (sconto) of price, on condition of taking so many meals a month in the selected caffe. b^ XX CAFES. List of the ordinary dishes at the Italian restaurants : — Antipasti^ relishes or whets. Minestra^ or Zuppa^ soup. Brodo or Consum^^ broth or bouillon. Zuppa alia Santh^ soup with green vegetables and bread. Minestra di riso con piselli^ rice-soup with peas. Risotto^ a kind of rice-pudding (rich). Paste asciutte^ maccaroni*, al sugo e al burro, with sauce and butter; al pomidoro, with tomatoes. Came lessa, bolUta, boiled meat; in umido, alia genovese, with sauce; ben cotto, well done ; al sangue, al inglese, underdone; aiferri, cooked on the gridiron. Fritto, fried meat. Manzo, beef. Anneccbia, young beef (in S. Italy). Arrosto, roasted meat. Bistecca, beefsteak. Maiale, pork. Arista, chine of pork. Agnello, lamb. Gapretto, kid. Montone, mutton. Arrosto di vitello, roast-veal. Testa di vitello, calf’s head. Figdto di vitello, calf’s liver. Costoletta or bracciola di vitello, veal- cutlet. Costoletta alia Milanese, veal-cutlet baked in dough. Esgaloppe, veal -cutlet in bread- crumbs. Ostriche, oysters (good in winter only). Pesce, fish. Sfoglia, a kind of sole. Tonno, tunny. Presciutto, ham. Salame, sausage (usually with garlic, dglid). Uova, egg; da here, soii', dure, hard; al piatto, poached. Anitra, duck. Polio, fowl. Polio d' India or Dindio, turkey. Tor do, field-fare. Crochetti, croquettes. Gnocchi, small puddings. Stufatino, cibrio, ragout. Contorno , Quarnizione, garnishing, vegetables, usually not charged for. Patdte, potatoes. Insalata, salad. Polenta, pudding or porridge of maize. Carciofi, artichokes. Aspardgi^ asparagus. Spindci, spinach. Piselli, peas. Lenticchie, lentils. Gavoli fiori, cauliflower. Fave, beans. Fagiuolini or Gornetti, French beans. Funghi, mushrooms. Sale, salt. Pepe, pepper. Mostarda francese, sweet mustard. Sendpe, Mostarda inglese, hot mustard. Frutta or Oiardinetto, fruit- desert; frutta secche , nuts , raisins , al- monds, etc. Crostata di frutti, fruit-tart. Grostata di pasta sfoglia, a kind of pastry. Dolce, pudding. Zuppa inglese, a kind of pudding (somewhat in the style of a trifle). Frittata, omelette. Fragole, strawberries. Per a, pear. Mele, apples. Persici, Pesche, peaches. Uve, grapes. Fichi, figs. Nod, nuts. Limone, lemon. Arancio, orange. Pane francese or mecanico, bread made with yeast (the Italian is without). Finocchio, root of fennel. Formaggio , or in S. Italy caccio, cheese. The Maccaroni of Naples is much esteemed, but is generally hard, and should therefore be ordered ‘ben cotti’. It is usually flavoured with pomi d’oro (tomatoes), of which the Neapolitans are very fond. Sea-fish and ragosta, a kind of lobster, excellent. Shell-fish soup (zuppa di von- gole), a good but indigestible dish. Cafes are frequented for breakfast and luncheon , and in the evening by numerous consumers of ices. Cafd noir (Caff^ nero) is most commonly drunk (15-25 c. per cup). Caff^ latte is coffee mixed with milk before served (30-35 c. ; ^ capuccino"' , or small cup, cheaper) ; or cajfl e latte, i.e. with the milk served separately, may be preferred. The usual viands for lunch are ham, sausages, cutlets, and eggs. Ices (gelato) of every conceivable variety are supplied at the cafes, particularly at Naples, at 30-90 c. per portion ; or half-a-portion (mezza) may STOnTS, THEATRES, SHOPS. xxl generally be ordered. Sorbetio^ or half-frozen ice, and Qranila^ or iced water (Wnonata^ of lemons^ aranciata^ of oranges^ di caffi^ of coffee), is chiefly in vogue in the forenoon. The Wine Shops (Osterie) are almost exclusively frequented by the lower ranks. In shops outside the towns the wine is very cheap and often excellent. The numbers on the outside of the shops (4, 5, 6, etc.) indicate the price per Y 2 litre in soldi. Bread, cheese, and eggs are usually the only viands provided. Wine (vino da pasta^ table-wine; nero, red; bianco^ white; pastaso^ sweet; asciutto^ dry; del paese^ wine of the country) is usually supplied in bottles containing one-half or one-fifth of a litre (un mezzo litro; un quinto ovbicchiere). Wines of a better quality are sold in ordinary quarts and pints. Cigars (sigaro) in Italy are a monopoly of Government, and had. The prices of the home-made cigars {Scelti Romani^ Virginias^ Fe- vays^ Cavours, Napolitani^ etc.) vary from 71/2 to 18 c. Good im- ported cigars may be bought at the best shops in the large towns for 25-60 c., and also foreign cigarettes. — Passers-by are at liberty to avail themselves of the light burning in every tobacconist’s, without making any purchase. IX. Sights, Theatres, Shops. Churches are open in the morning till 12, and generally again from 2-4 to 7 p.m. Visitors may inspect the works of art even during divine service , provided they move about noiselessly, and keep aloof from the altar where the clergy are officiating. On the occasion of festivals and for a week or two before Easter the works of art are often temporarily covered. Those which are always covered are shown by the verger (sagrestano) for a small gratuity (p. xiv). — For the use of a chair in the churches a charge of 5 c. is fre- quently made. Museums, picture-galleries , and other collections are usually open from 10 to 4 o’clock. All the collections which belong to government are open on week-days at a charge of 1 fr., and on Sundays or Thursdays gratis. Artists, archaeologists, and scholars are admitted without charge on proof of their claims (e.gr. by a cer- tificate from a consul). The attendants are forbidden to accept gratuities. The collections are closed on public holidays. The Museo Nazionale at Naples, for instance, is closed on New Year’s Day, Epiphany (6th .Tan.), the king’s birthday (14th Mar.), Easter Sunday, Ascension Day, Whitsunday, Corpus Christi, Festa dello Statuto (first Sunday in .June), Day of SS. Peter & Paul (29th June), Assumption of the Virgin (15th Aug.), Birth of the Virgin (8th Sept.), St. Januarius (19th Sept.), All Saints’ Day (1st Nov.), the crown-prince’s birthday (11th Nov.), the queen’s birthday (20th Nov.), Feast of the Conception (8th Dec.), and on Christmas Day. Theatres. The performances at the larger theatres, beginning at 8, 8.30, or 9, and ending at midnight or later, consist exclusively of operas and ballets, the first act of an opera being usually succeeded by a ballet of three or more acts. The pit (platea), to which holders of the ordinary biglietto dHngresso are admitted, is the usual resort of the men. For the reserved seats (scanni chiusi, sedie chime, pol~ xxii .POST OFFICE. TELEGRAPH. trone, posti distinti) and boxes (palco) additional tickets must be taken. Ladies of course engage a box, or at least reserved seats. These seats should always be secured in advance. — The theatre is a favourite evening-resort of the Italians, and silence during the performance of the music is never very strictly observed. Shops rarely have fixed prices. As a rule two-thirds or three- quarters of the price asked should be offered (comp. p. 25). ^Non volete?' (then you will not?) is a remark which generally has the effect of bringing the matter to a speedy adjustment. Purchases should never be made by the traveller when accompanied by a valet- de-place. These individuals, by tacit agreement, receive at least 10 per cent of the purchase-money, which of course comes out of the purchaser’s pocket. X. Post Office. Telegraph. In the larger towns the Post Office is open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 or 8.30 p.m. (also on Sundays and holidays), in smaller places it is generally closed in the middle of the day for two or three hours. Letters (whether ^poste restante\ Italian ^ferma in posta\ or to the traveller’s hotel) should be addressed very distinctly, and the name of the place should be in Italian. When asking for letters the traveller should present his visiting-card instead of giving his name orally. Postage-stamps (francobolli) are sold at the post-offices and at many of the tobacco-shops. The Italian for letter-box is Buca or Cassetta (for letters, per le lettere; for printed papers, per le stampe'). Letters of 15 grammes (^/2 oz., about the weight of three sous) by town-post 5 c., to the rest of Italy 20 c., abroad (per Vestero) to any of the states included in the postal union (now comprising the whole of Europe as well as the United States, Canada, etc.) 25 c. The penalty (segnatassa) for insufficiently prepaid letters is considerable. — Post-Cards (cartolina postale% for both Italy and abroad, 10 c., reply-cards (con risposta pagata)^ inland 15 c., for abroad 20 c. — Book-Packets (stampe sotto fascia) 2 c. per 50 grammes, for abroad 5 c. — Registration Fee (rac- commandazione) for letters for the same town and printed matter 10 c., otherwise 25 c. The packet or letter must be inscribed (Waccomandata')^ and the stamps must be affixed in front at the different corners. A Parcel Post exists between Italy and Great Britain, the rates and con- ditions of which may be ascertained at any post-office. The parcels must be carefully packed and fastened and may not contain anything in the shape of a letter; and a custom-house declaration must be filled up for each. Articles such as flowers, etc., not liable to duty are best sent as samples of no value (campione senza valore) in Italy 2 c. per 50 gr., abroad 10 c. Telegrams. For telegrams to foreign countries the following rate per word is charged in addition to an initial payment of 1 fr. ; Great Britain 26 c., France 14, Germany 14, Switzerland 6-14, Austria 6-14, Belgium 19, Holland 23, Denmark 23, Russia 42, Norway 34, Sweden 26 c. — To America from 33/4 fr. per word upwards, according to the distance. — In Italy, 15 words 1 fr., each additional word 5 c. Telegrams with special haste (telegrammi urgenti)^ which take precedence of all others, may be sent in Italy at thrice the above rates. XI. Climate and Health of Naples. Climate. The bills in the vicinity of Naples afford only a par- tial protection against tbe winds. The Posilipo and the heights of CLIMATE. HEALTH. xxili S. Elmo y the same process representation in relief is gradually en- nobled. Offences against proportion and drawing are more easily overlooked in relief than in a lifesize work in the round ; the sus- ceptibility of the eye, moreover, is more readily forgotten in the in- terest excited by the pictorial narration. The monuments of Seli- nunte are pre-eminent in the opportunity they afford for observing on the spot what has sprung from these beginnings. Of the group on the Eastern hill the Temple F in point of time is next to those of the Paean Apollo and of Athena. Then come Temple (r, likewise dedicated to Apollo, one to Juno (E)^ and lastly Temple A, occupy- ing the Acropolis. Temple F still belongs to the 6 th century B.C., a period when the building of the Apollo Temple G had begun, to be completed at a later period. The Heraeum (Temple of Juno) E and temple A date from the middle of the 5th century B.C. or not much later. Two halves of metope-slabs have been brought to light which adorned the temple F (a god and goddess contend- ing with giants), and four similar slabs from the Herasum are so far preserved that they furnish a sufficiently intelligible repre- sentation of Zeus and Hera, Artemis and Actaeon, Heracles and the Amazons, and Athena contending with the Giants. In both metopes from F extraordinary clearness and animation again arrest the attention. The impetuous rush of the victorious goddess, the dying agonies of the fallen giant, his head convulsive- ly thrown back, his mouth open and grinning, his utter helpless- ness, are rendered with a turbulence , and with an expenditure of means, which appear to us very much in excess of what is needed for clear expression, and which simply outrage instead of satisfying one’s sense of the beautiful. The two art - stages to which these reliefs, and the quaint rudeness of those of the Apollo Temple on the Acropolis belong, offer a certain analogy. In both cases all available means are applied with recklessness and in excess. Those, however, at the disposal of the later artist were infinitely richer and more perfect. While his predecessor had not altogether mastered the forms of art , he had acquired a certain familiarity with them, though at the cost of much toil and trouble 5 but his power was so new and unwonted that he could not refrain from abusing it. The Metopes from the Heraeum on the other hand, which mark the maturity of archaic art, show a command of expression ennobled by a fine perception of the beautiful. These qualities declare themselves most felicitously in the two compositions which represent the meeting of Zeus and Hera on Mount Ida and Artemis punishing Actaeon. The expression of godlike serenity and joy which pervades the first scene transcends all similar efforts whether of earlier or later art : while the second is scarcely less admirable from the way in which the unmistakable wildness of the subject is subdued to something like softness by modulation of movement and occupation of allotted space. The technical method employed in the more recent metopes XXX ANCIENT ART. is peculiar. In tlie antique vases with black figures on a red ground the men are usually black, and the women, as far as the body itself is visible, white. Here the indication of the lighter and darker flesh- colour of the two sexes has superficially supplied a necessary char- acteristic. But the perfected art also resorted to this distinction in rendering flesh-colour. In the paintings of Pompeii the bronzed, sunburnt bodies of the men form an effective contrast to the deli- cate and fairer forms of the women. Something of the same kind is found in the metopes of the Herseum. As the entire temple is of tufa, they too are of the same material. Owing to the rugged and faulty nature of the material the architect resorted to a coating of stucco upon which he displayed his gaudy decoration. In the reliefs the nude forms of the women are given in white marble. The harmony of the different portions of the reliefs , multiform as they were, was restored by a profuse application of colour, which the purely architectural accessories also required. Every new discovery, in which the excavations of the last twenty years have been so prolific, brings the sculptures of Selinunte one step farther from the artistic isolation which presented them as al- most insoluble problems to the original discoverers. The quaint, crude reliefs of Temple C recall by the style of their carved forms the curious poros-sculptures which have been exhumed on the Acropolis at Athens ; and doubtless their colouring was as vivid and striking as the colouring of those sculptures. The powerful reliefs from Temple F, with their representations of warriors exerting their strength to the full, rank with the Combats of the Giants from the treasury of the Megarans at Olympia. The beautiful metopes of the Heracum exhibit a close affinity with the sculptures of the temple of Zeus at Olympia. They may perhaps display a more successful and more charming gracefulness than the Olympian works : but in the methods of composition, in. the naive vivacity of the aesthetic sense, and even in the conception of nature, it is impossible to fail to recognize in both the same artistic method, founded on the common ground of an equal artistic development, and very clearly differentiated, for example, from the JEginetan marbles. With the artistic style of the sculptures from the Herasum at Selinunte may be compared the newly discovered Ionic temple at Locri, as affording an example of a not very alien method of treatment. Beside all these original decorative sculptures, there is an ad- mirable copy of a great work of not much later date that ably main- tains its place in virtue of its majestic severity and restrained energy. This is the Farnese Head of Juno (p. 62), which at once recalls to our minds the Artemis of the Heraeum at Selinunte. In a well- known passage in his history of art, Winckelmann describes per- fect beauty as twofold , as having a double grace : the one as winning, — ‘she descends from her eminence, revealing herself to the observant eye with a suavity devoid of self-abasement: she is ANCIKNT ART. xxxi not over-anxious to please, but would not be overlooked’. The other is self-sufficient and would be sought rather than court at- tention, — ‘she holds converse only with the wise, appearing to the populace inimical and austere, she conceals the emotions of her soul, and nearly attains to the blessed repose of the divine nature : and thus according to ancient writers the greatest artists sought to pourtray her’. To those who know how to observe will be revealed beneath the austere solemnity of this Farnese Juno an impressive picture of godlike repose and majesty. The sculptures of the Temple of Zeus and the Herseum at Seli- nunte find a parallel as regards violence of action and motion in the group of the tyrant- slayers Harmodius and Aristogeiton^ in the Museo Nazionale at Naples (p. 61), a marble copy of that work of Critios and Nesiotes which stood in the market-place at Athens. But in this group we may detect traces of an art that was under different conditions. The two Athenians rush to the attack , the sword of the younger being raised to strike ; the older of the two (the head of this figure does not belong to it, the original was bearded) is at hand to protect his brave comrade, as soon as the time comes for him to interfere ; and here the words of the great authority already quoted, in reference to the attributes of a severe style, are applicable : ‘The drawing was impressive but hard, powerful but devoid of grace. The force of expression detracts from the beauty’ . . . ‘Art was hard and severe as the justice of the time which punished the most trifling- offence with death’. The same violence of action and rendering of form are observable in the reliefs from the W. pediment of the temple of Zeus. But the reliefs appear wild, almost disordered and devoid of beauty, beside the symmetrical accuracy and precision, the concentrated power, the beautiful flow of lines in the Attic group of the murder of Hippias. Though in the National Museum there may not be found any very pure or important example of the Attic school of Phidias’ time, a succeeding school is most happily illustrated by the Orpheus Belief (p. 66). Orpheus is permitted to bring his consort Eurydice out of Hades and to restore her once more to the light of the sun on con- dition that he shall not look upon her during the passage. He has failed to fulfil this condition. Hermes, the conductor of departed souls, with gentle measured gesture takes the hand of Eurydice to consign her anew to the realm of shades. In contemplating this com- position, beautiful in its simplicity as it is, hope and dismay altern- ately possess us. The advance of the train, Orpheus in the act of casting the fatal glance , the confiding communion of man and wife are quite unmistakable , as well as the interruption of their pro- gress and the subsequent return of Eurydice. And here we may pause to wonder how antique art could present powerful effect clothed in persuasive beauty, or, if subdued, yet with striking- expression : and with what a modest expenditure of means she could xxxii ANCIENT ART. assert ‘this noble simplicity and grajideur of repose’. Even in its own time this work must have enjoyed a considerable reputation, as replicas are still to be seen in the Villa Albani at Rome and in the Louvre at Paris. The Neapolitan example is the most beauti- ful, and the severest too, of those extant. It may be remarked, by the way, that the inscriptions introduced, though they may be cor- rect in the explanation they give , must be of doubtful antiquity. The Argive school of the latter half of the fifth century had as its head the famous Polycletus. He frequently used earlier works, even of the Attic school, altering them according to a deliberately defined ideal of formal beauty and harmonious effect. An excellent example of his style is afforded by the fine reproduction of his Dory- phorus from the palestra at Pompeii (now in Naples). By far the greater number of sculptures in Naples belong like those in Rome to a more recent period of Greek art. The prostrate Amazon stretched out in death, a Dead Persian^ a Dead Giant, and the Wounded Gaul, which will be readily recognised from its resemblance to a masterpiece of the Pergamenian school, the Dying Gaul in the Museum of the Capitol (the so-called Dying Gladiator), are parts of a votive offering of King Attains of Perga- mos at Athens, of which single figures are to be seen in Venice and in Rome. The colossal group of the so-called Farnese Bull (p. 60), which brilliantly represents the Rhodian School, is more likely to arrest attention. This group will produce a powerful impression upon most beholders, and this not by force of its material bulk alone. The effect would have been even more impressive, had the work of restoration been successful, particularly in the standing female figure. It will be worth our while to analyse the nature of this effect, as well as the forces which contribute to it. An occurrence full of horror is presented to our view. Two powerful youths are engaged in binding to the horns of a furious bull the helpless form of a woman. The mighty beast is plunging violently, and in another moment will be away, hurrying the burden he is made to bear to the terrible doom of a martyr. As soon as we have attained to an accurate conception of what is passing before us, horror and dismay rather than pity take possession of us. What impels the youths to the deed? How is it that they are allowed to effect their purpose undisturbed? The answer is to be found outside the work itself. Antiope, expelled by her father, has given birth to Amphion and Zethus and has had to abandon them. The sons grow up under the care of an old shepherd. Antiope has yet other sufferings to endure at the hands of her relation Dirce, who maltreated her. Dirce, wandering on Mount Cythaeron in bacchanalian revel, would slay the victim of her persecutions. She bids two young shepherds bind Antiope to a bull that she may thus be dragged to her death. The ANCIKNT ART. xxxiii youths recognise their mother. before it is too late: they consign Dirce to the doom prepared for Antiope. The ancient Greeks were familiarised with this myth by a celebrated tragedy of Euripides; the subordinate work on the base, the mountain-god Cythieron decked with Bacchic ivy, and the Baccliic cista on the ground, would help to recall all the minor incidents of the story. A doom pronounced by the gods is executed ; the fate Dirce had prepared for another recoils upon herself. But all this, or at least as much as will suffice for a satisfactory understanding of the work of art as such, cannot be gathered from the work itself. In the Orpheus relief we recognise without extraneous aid the separation of two lovers calmly resigned to their fate, their severance by the conductor of souls. An acquaintance with the exquisite legend will merely serve to enhance the thrilling emotions evoked by the sculptured forms. The Bull will excite our abhorrence if the story be not known to us ; while the knowledge itself and such reflections as it would suggest could scarcely reconcile us to the cruelty of the deed, or enable, us to endure its perpetuation in stone. But when our thoughts are sufficiently collected to allow of our realising the event, we are again lost in admiring wonder at the aspiring courage, at the command of all artistic and technical resources possessed by the author of this sculpture, which uprears itself with such unfaltering power. The base is adorned with sugges- tions of landscape and appropriate animal-life more elaborately than was then usual in works of this kind, although analogies are not wholly wanting. But the landscape, the figure of the mountain-god Cythaeron, together with all minor accessories, are far surpassed in interest by the principal figures and their action. The lovely feminine form of Dirce vainly imploring the pow- erful youths whose utmost exertions scarcely suffice to restrain the infuriated beast, the vivid reality of the whole scene, the artistic refinement in the execution have always been deserved- ly admired. We readily concede to one like Welcker, who brough the finest perceptions to bear on the exposition of antique art, ‘that it is impossible to attain to the highest excellence in any particular direction without at the same time postponing one or other consideration of value’. That which was esteemed as the highest excellence, the goal which must be reached at the cost of all other considerations, has varied with successive epochs of Greek art. In the present case repose and concentration are sacri- ficed to the overwhelming effect of a momentary scene. Even at a time when restoration could not have interfered with the original design , the impression of a certain confusedness must have been conveyed to the spectator, at least at the first glance. It is emin- ently characteristic of this group ‘that it powerfully arrests the attention at a point where an almost wild defiance of rule declares itself. The contrast presented in the scene — the terribly rapid Baedeker. Italy III. 12th Edition. c. xxxiv ANCIENT ART. and unceasing movement as the inevitable result of a momentary pause, which the artist with consummate boldness and subtlety has known howto induce and improve, give life and energy to the picture in a wonderful degree’. But Welcker himself, from whom these words are borrowed, reminds us how this group first arrests attention ‘by the uncommon character of its appearance’. The group of the Bull assuredly displays excellences which belonged to the antique of every epoch , especially the intuitive perception that truth in the sphere of art is not identical with an illusory realism. The conception of this group proceeds from a complete apprehension of the subject to be embodied. But this fulness of apprehension is derived from the tragedy. From the very beginning plastic art and poetry have been as twin streams springing from one source and flowing separately, yet side by side. Often indeed their waters have met and mingled. But it was long ere a separate and distinct channel drew off part of the poetic tide to feed the sister stream. The scene presented to us by this Farnese group was, long before its embodiment by plastic art, illustrated by Euripides in his tragedy, where Dirce’s death is related by the messenger. The artist found material for his inventiveness at hand, which his fancy, passionately stimulated, presently endowed with plastic form and life at a moment which promised ‘an uncommon appearance’^ a majestic and overpowering effect which should command astonish- ment and admiration. We have already attributed the Farnese group to the Rhodian School in speaking of the origin and development of art. It was the work of two sculptors Apollonius and Tauriscus of Tralles in Asia Minor ; for, according to the Roman author Pliny, the group is identical with one by these artists which was brought to Rome from Rhodes, and in all probability found its way thence to Naples. — The colossal group of a man who bears away the dead body of a boy on his shoulders is usually ascribed to the Rhodian School. It has been described as Hector with the body of Troilus. But the corpse of a beloved brother saved from the battle-field would hardly be seized in such fashion. It would rather appear to be that of a victim borne away in triumph by a ruthless victor. In Naples we have a number of instructive examples of the two styles which are frequently designated as an antique Renais- sance, the New-Attic School, and the School of Pasiteles ; of the latter in the bronze figure of Apollo playing the Lyre from Pom- peii, and in the archaic simplicity of the affecting group of Orestes and Electra ; of the former in the Vase of Salpion, or better still in the Aphrodite from Capua, the so-called Psyche, and similar works. The Museo Nazionale at Naples is richer in large Bronzes than any other museum in the world ; and nearly all stages of Greek art may be traced in this great collection. A very early period is re- presented by the Head of a Youth, remarkable for the soldering on of the hair, which the shrewd collector in his villa at Herculaneum ANCIENT ART. XXXV liad erected as the fragment of a statue. The so-called Dancing Women from Herculaneum belong to the same cycle as the sculp- tures at Selinunte and Olympia, where also Phidias had a place, as is proved by the copy of the Parthenos found in Athens. The bearded head, once erroneously named Plato, illustrates the artistic form, of the stage represented by Myron; while later art is illustrated by the statuette of Dionysos, known under the misnomer of Narcissus. The Resting Hermes and the gay Dancing Faun have long been famous. The head at one time believed to represent Seneca is an admirable portrait of some Alexandrian scholar or poet. In Naples also, abundant opportunity will be found for continuing the study begun in Rome of the heroes of an ideal world, of portraits, sarco- phagus-reliefs, or whatever else may especially engage the attention. The custom of painting marble statues is illustrated for the earlier period in a statue of Artemis, and for the later period in a statuette of Venus, Probably, however, curiosity and interest will be most excited by the appearance of antique paintings from Pompeii and the neighbouring cities of Campania buried at the foot of Vesuvius. The history of Greek Painting presents a problem difficult of solution. Happily we have outlived the superstition that the people amongst whom the Parthenon arose , and who gave birth to a sculptor such as Phidias, should have contributed in painting nothing worthy of record. What we most desire, however, is still wanting. We are not in possession of any work by a master of the art ; but only of the products of a subordinate and mechanical art and these only from a single and comparatively recent period. The greatest painter of the older time — and probably one of the greatest artists of all times — was Polygnotus , a native of Thasos. He lived for the most part in Athens, where he was pre- sented with the rights of citizenship, and was, though a contemporary of Phidias, his senior. As Phidias was a favourite of Pericles and employed by him, it would appear that Polygnotus was a protdge of Cimon. Pausanias, the Greek author of travels (in the time of Antoninus), had seen two large paintings by Polygnotus covering the wall in Delphi, and has minutely described them. In the one the fall of Troy was represented, in the other scenes from the nether world. In the first the Trojan Cassandra is the centre figure. Ajax has offered violence to her: she sits on the ground, in her hand the image of the insulted Athena ; around her the Greek heroes are sitting in judgment upon Ajax. In the background is the citadel of Troy, the head of the wooden horse reaches above its wall, which Epeios, the builder of the horse, is about to demolish. Right and left of the central group are scenes of destruction ; heaps of the slain, the savage Neoptolemus still persisting in his work of slaugh- ter, captive women, and terrified children. Nor were more inviting scenes wanting. Close to the captive Trojan women was represented the liberation of iEthra, who had been Helen’s slave, and farther back xxxvi ANCIENT ART. the tent of Menelaus is taken down and his ship equipped for departure. On the other side of the picture was recognised the house of Antenor , which the Greeks had spared , while he himself and his family make ready to quit their desolated home and depart for foreign lands. Thus the entire centre of the composition has refer- ence to the crime committed after the conquest, which called aloud for punishment hy the gods ; these scenes of death and horror were enclosed at the extremities hy more peaceful incidents — the horror of the lower world whose shades envelope renowned heroes and heroines 5 Odysseus compelled to descend to the abode of the departed — all this Polygnotus combined in one grand picture, skilfully alternating peace and the torments of hell, infernal majesty and tender grace. Polygnotus had not only embodied in these pictures the mythical matter with which religious rites, epic poem, vulgar tradition and humour, as well as the earlier works of plastic art, could furnish him ; not only had he animated this material with captivating motives strongly appealing to the be- holder’s imagination ; but he had, as may still be recognised, while painting, asserted his power as a poet and supplied much that was original in the realm of fancy. The technical means at the disposal of Polygnotus were so limited, so simple and antiquated, that in the Roman times admiration of his pictures was ridiculed as a con- ceit of dilettantism — just as at one time it was customary to scoff at the admirer of Giotto. Nevertheless with these simple means, Polygnotus could express himself with so much clearness, so nobly and sublimely, that Aristotle praises him as an artist whose forms were more noble and grander than were commonly seen in life, while the painter Pauson presented men worse than they really were, and Dionysius was true to nature. Having regard to these separate qual- ifications he suggested that the youthful eye should receive its im- pressions from Polygnotus and not from Pauson. In later times the beauty of Polygnotus’s pictures continued to charm : in the second century A. D. his Cassandra supplied an author of refinement and penetration, like Lucian, with the material for a description of fem- inine beauty. While the fame of Polygnotus and his contemporaries rested principally on wall - paintings , later critics would maintain that those of his successors who first produced artistic effect in portable pictures were the only true painters. As the first painter in this sense the Athenian Apollodorus may be named. The work which he began was completed by Zeuxis of Heraclea and Parrhasius of Ephesus. We still possess a description by Lucian of the Centaur family by Zeuxis. The female Centaur reclines on the grass , in a half-kneeling position , with the human part of her body erect. One of her two infants she holds in her arms giving it nour- ishment in human fashion ; the other sucks her teats like a foal. The male Centaur looks down from above. He holds in his right ANCIENT ART. xxxvii liaiid a lioii-c\ib whicli he swings over his shoulder as if jokingly to frighten his young ones. ‘The further excellences of the picture,’ modestly continues Lucian , though evidently an accomplished connoisseur, ‘which to us laymen are hut partly revealed, hut nevertheless comprise the whole of art’s resources, correct draw- ing, an admirable manipulation and mingling of colour, man- agement of light and shade, a happy choice of dimension, as well as just relative proportion of parts to the whole, and the com- bined movement of the composition — these are qualities to be ex- tolled by one of art’s disciples who has mastered the subject in its detail’. This eloquent description by Lucian has been made the sub- ject of a spirited drawing by Genelli. Unfortunately no such record of Parrhasius’ works remains. The credit of having first applied symmetry, i.t. probably the systematic regard for the proportion recognised by later leaders in art, to painting, is claimed for Par- rhasius, as well as delicacy and grace in the artistic rendering of the countenance and hair. He is said, too , to have been supreme in the management of contour. But in later times Parrhasius was esteemed simple as a colourist compared with Apelles. The authors to whom are due most of the notices of painters that we possess, distinguish different schools. The Helladic School included the painters of Athens and those of the mother- country of Greece along with those of Sicyon. But owing to the pre-eminence achieved for Sicyon by the painter Eupompus, the Helladic school was again subdivided under the title of Sicyonic and Attic or Attic- Theb an , after certain artists of these schools. To this, or rather to these schools, was opposed the Asiatic (Ionic). Pausias, whose name is known to us by Goethe’s exquisite poem, was one of the Sicyonian School, and, so, it appears, was that talented painter Timanthes^ whose best-known work was his Iphigenia. She stood at the altar ready to be sacrificed , surrounded by the heroes of the Grecian camp, in whose persons, according to the character of each and with due regard to appropriateness, was pourtrayed every degree of mental anguish. Agamemnon himself veiled his head. Nicomachus, Aristides , Euphranor, likewise renowned as sculptor and master of heroic representation , and Nicias the friend of Praxiteles belong to the Theban-Attic school. Amongst the pic- tures of Aristides was one of a woman wounded during the siege. She is dying while her infant still clings to her breast. In the ex- pression of the mother’s countenance could, it was thought, be read the fear lest her blood should be mingled with the milk the child was sucking. — The most brilliant master of the Ionic school — though he had had the advantage of studying his art in Sicyon — the most renowned indeed of the painters of antiquity, was Apelles, the contemporary of Alexander the Great, and incomparable in his power of expressing grace in all its forms. As yet we are not in pos- session of any distinct clue to the character of his most esteemed xxxviii ANCIENT ART. works, such as his Artemis , with her hand of attendant nymphs clustering around her, hurrying to the chase, or his Aphrodite rising from the sea. We are more fortunate in the instance of two younger painters, Action and Timomachus. Of the Nuptials of Alexander hy Action we have again a masterly description by Lucian, with which all are acquainted who have seen the beautiful Raffaelesque composition in the Villa Borghese at Rome. The Medea of Timo- machus is to be traced in a series of imitations or reminiscences, on monuments of different kinds, but most remarkably in a mutilated picture from Herculaneum, and again in another, in perfect pre- servation, from Pompeii. The services thus rendered us by the Campanian towns in bringing to light the works of Timomachus encourage us to hope that they may be repeated in the case of other Greek celebrities. It is, in fact, concluded with a considerable show of probability that in the Pompeian representations of the liberation of Andromeda by Perseus are to be recognised influences of a picture by Nicias. It has frequently been attempted with much pains, and with the aid of more or less audacious assumptions and combinations, to reconstruct copies of these renowned Greek masters, and when after all it has been found that such efforts are for the most part vain and futile, it has been urged in explanation of the failure that our acquaint- ance with celebrated cabinet-pictures is too limited. We must, then, however unwillingly, accept the conclusion that anything more than a very qualified belief in Pompeian pictures is impossible. They are invaluable as a clue to many qualities which were com- mon to the painting of antiquity ; invaluable , too , because they assuredly possess , in obedience to the unvarying traditions of an- tique art — which having taken a theme in hand would work it out to the last possible variation — a wealth of imagery and redundance of lineament which connect them more or less closely with the works of the great masters. But it is scarcely to be wondered at that the authenticity of copies from celebrated cabinet-pictures of the best period should be so rarely established, or wear even the appearance of probability; it were a wonder indeed if so much could be accom- plished. Demosthenes reminds his countrymen in scathing words how in the palmy days of Athens the noblest edifices were erected in honour of the gods, while the dwellings of the most distinguished Athenians were simple and inconspicuous as those of their neighbours. Even at the time these words were spoken a change had come over Greek life. For the stern sublimity of the creations of an earlier time. Art had substituted a milder and more effeminate type of divinity, nor did she now disdain to enter the abodes of men. The splendour which had been reserved for the gods, now found its way into pri- vate dwellings. What at first had been a bold innovation and an exception , presently grew into a universal requirement. From the ANCIENT ART. XXXIX. epocli of culture inaugurated by Alexander onwards, sculptor and painter alike contributed to tlie artistic beauty and sumptuous adornment of dwelling-houses. Inventiveness , displayed in the designing and ornamentation of household furniture of every kind, followed as a matter of course , and though in Athens and Hellas expenditure in this way remained moderate, in other great cities, as Alexandria in Egypt and Antioch in Syria , artist and handicrafts- man alike vied with the wealth and luxury of the inhabitants, not only in beautifying the cities externally, but in lavishing upon the dwelling-houses of the rich the utmost attainable splendour. Plans were extended and adapted to the employments and highest enjoy- ment of life ; floors, walls, and ceilings were arranged and decorated in ever new and varying style. Then decoration in stucco and painting was supplemented by mosaic work which enlivened the floors with an effect as charming as that of painting ; nor was it long restricted to the floors. Along with other elements of culture the Roman world had borrowed from the Greek the beautifying of their houses , and as movement is never absolutely suspended, this taste received in Roman times a farther impetus in its original direction. We may safely assume, however, reasoning from analogy, that it departed farther and farther from the purity and harmony of the Greek pattern. In the picture which Pompeii presents as a whole we see the last trace of that combined art and beauty which with the later Greeks permeated life in every vein and in all its phases : a feeble and faded picture it must remain, however active the fancy may be in investing it with attributes belonging to Hellenic art in the zenith of its splendour. Prom an earlier period, when the influence of the Greek was more directly felt, we have not received much from Pompeii that is instructive. The general impression is derived from the restorations consequent on the earthquake of the year A.D. 63. The great mass of decoration is the work of the sixteen years intervening between A.D. 63 and the town’s final destruction in A.D. 79, and was in the newest fashion then prevailing in Rome, but necessarily on a scale commensurate with the resources of a pro- vincial town. As the Roman Senate had ordered the rebuilding of the town, the pay of handicraftsmen would doubtless be attractive enough. The houses were made habitable with the utmost de- spatch, and received their decorations with the same haste. It is im- possible but to believe that the greater number of houses were thus completed by a comparatively small number of masters with their staffs of workmen. They had their pattern-books for the decoration of entire rooms and walls, as well as for simple pictures, and they resorted to these pattern-books more or less according to their need or fancy. The favourite motives and forms were so familiar to them that they had them literally at their fingers’ ends : with incred- ibly certain and facile hand, and without concerning themselves xl ANCIENT ART. about means or method, they fling their gaud and glitter over the naked walls. And very captivating is this stirring picture-pattern world which moved obedient to their will. Yistas of airy fantastic forms architecturally disposed and decked with wreaths and gar- lands delusively mask the narrow limits of the allotted space; while, by way of completing the illusory effect of this mock archi- tecture, graceful figures move in the midst, or from the open window look in upon the chamber. Arabesques, sprays and borders of foliage and flowers, and garlands gracefully enliven and divide the walls ; while in the midst of the enclosed spaces, from a dark back- ground, figures single or in pairs stand out in dazzling relief, and whether winged or otherwise are always lightly and surely poised. Here and there lovely maidens are seen dancing in mid-air ; Eros tinkles on the strings of the lyre which Psyche holds ; Satyrs and Nymphs, Centaurs and Bacchantes, female figures with candelabra, flowers, and fruits people this airy realm of fancy. Separate pic- tures at intervals engage the attention. They tell the story of the handsome but unsusceptible Narcissus, of Adonis the favourite of Aphrodite, whose early loss the goddess bewails with Eros, of Phae- dra’s shameless passion for Hippolytus; the loves of Apollo and Daphne, of Ares and Aphrodite, Artemis and Actaeon, Ariadne abandoned by Theseus, the story of Leda, the life and pursuits of Bacchus and his followers, of the god finding the forsaken Ariadne, and of Satyrs pursuing Nymphs. Scenes of terror, too, there are : Dirce bound to the Bull, Medea meditating the murder of her children, the sacrifice of Iphigenia — but even these are rendered with an effect of sensuous beauty so entrancing that they are lost in the gladsome world of exuberant life about them. Mere tragic violence acquires no enduring power over the senses : they are rather beguiled by the remembrance of some captivating legend, some transient impulse, a throb of compassion, which infuse a wholesome element into pictures abounding with expressions of rapturous delight. Where passion exerts itself it is but for the moment — the power of love for good or evil , the beauty of the human form , moments of bliss whether of mortals or the immor- tals — such is the material for an ever-recurring theme. Bits of landscape, houses with trees, rocks, or a grotto on the strand are suggestive of idyllic delights. And around these more conspicuous figures are grouped an accompaniment of small friezes with pic- torial accessories grave and gay, still-life, animals and incidents of the chase, pygmies, masks, fresh fruit, and household vessels. The liveliest impression is made by the best examples of figures separately poised on the walls. Curiosity is most excited by the separate pictures ; they are the last remnant of the historical painting of the old world. They cannot, however, enable us to form a just estimate of the works of the greatest ancient masters. If genuine and adequate copies of celebrated cabinet-pictures from ANCIENT ART. xll the best period were to he found amongst Pompeian decorations it would he hy an accident altogether exceptional and capricious. The artist-hands who subsequently to the earthquake of A. U. 63 pushed their work so easily and so rapidly had neither these cah- iiiet-pictures nor the genuine and adequate copies to guide them, hut simply the draAvings of their pattern-hooks, t Thoroughly trained as they were mechanically to the work , they turned their sketches to the best possible account, transferred them on the required scale, making additions or omissions as the case might he, varying, modi- fying and curtailing, as necessity, fancy, and the measure of their capacity might prescribe. The enclosed pictures, which in graceful inventiveness and execution often enough surpassed the forms oc- cupying the open spaces, cannot he considered apart from the general decoration with which in manner and method they are identical. They betray moreover in spite of all that is beautiful and admirable about them, symptoms of degeneracy; just as the wall - decorations of Pompeii descending from elegance to the trivialities of mock architecture exhibit a degeneracy which must not, however, be regarded as inherent in the art of which we see here but a feeble reflection. Thus we learn that the way from the great painters of Greece to the wall-pictures of Pompeii is neither short nor straight, but long and too often hard to find. Many of the forms and groups so gracefully poised in the open wall-spaces may in their origin have reached back as far as the happiest period of Greek art ; it is also possible, that, when framed pictures were for the first time painted on the walls of houses in the epoch of Alexander, or at whatever other period this style of decoration came into vogue, celebrated easel-pictures were copied or laid under contribution. The designers of the pattern-books may have betaken themselves to a variety of sources, they may have ap- propriated and combined, as old and new patterns, entire de- t There have been long-standing differences of opinion about the me- chanism of painting practised in Pompeii. A solution of the problem is the result of researches conducted by the painter O. Donner (m a work published by Prof. Helbig, entitled ‘Wall-paintings of the cities of Cam- pania destroyed by Vesuvius’, Leipsic, 1868). According to this authority it is certain that the greater number of the pictures as well as wall-decora- tions were painted in fresco , i. e. upon a newly prepared and moistened surface — and only in exceptional cases and as a makeshift upon a dry ground. Conclusive evidence of this is afforded by the presence, to which Donner refers, of so-called ‘fresco-edges’, i. e. of spots where the newly prepared surface came in contact with what was already dry. The sur- face intended for the reception of colour was prepared by the painters of antiquity with such care that it retained the moisture much longer than in recent times has been found practicable. They were thus enabled to cover large wall-spaces without interruption and in this respect had a con- siderable advantage over us moderns. — In 1873 Professor Helbig pub- lished a supplement to his earlier work (Leipsic), and in 1879 a con- tinuation of his list of mural paintings appeared in Italian , under the title ‘Ze Future Murali Campane scoverte negli anni 1867-19 y descritte da Antonio Sogliano\ xlii ANCIENT ART. coratioiis together with separate figures and finished pictures. Like tlie pattern-hooks for the sarcophagus-reliefs, they must have been full of ideas and motives derived from an earlier and nobler art. And as wall-painting is more akin to high art we may encourage the hope that patient research will often be rewarded by discovering — as hitherto amidst a tangle of conflicting evidence — not the works themselves of the great masters, but those traces of their work which we so eagerly seek. In Pompeii, however, we learn the necessity of caution, for we there find examples of a much earlier style of decoration than the ‘Pompeian’, or even than the style of the Augustan age. No one could overlook the solemn dignity of aspect which makes the Casa del Fauno conspicuous amidst the mass of habitations in Pompeii. Here beauty reveals itself in column and capital, cornice and panelling, favourably contrasting with the gaudy frippery of a fantastic mock architecture with its pictorial accompaniments. The wealthy family which occupied this mansion may have rejoiced in the possession of many a costly cabinet -picture. But at the time the house was built it was not yet the custom, or it was not the owner’s pleasure to follow the newest fashion. In their place a complete series of the finest mosaics formed a part of the general decoration of the house. These are still partly preserved and to be seen on the spot. Here the celebrated Battle of Alexander was found, a grand composition that irresistibly reminded Goethe of Ra- phael’s ‘Siege of Constantinople’; while Karl Justi suggests as a per- haps still more just comparison Velazquez’s famous painting of the ‘Surrender of Breda’. In fact these three powerful representations of great feats of arms tower, as it were, like three lofty peaks above the long series of lesser martial paintings that the world has seen. They are closely related to each other in their mighty tide of move- ment, in their imposing effect , and above all , in the indissoluble unity, with which the artistic imagination has in each case conceived and depicted the hero of the day, plunged in the thick of the fray, yet dominating and ruling the surrounding melee. Early Greek art apparently made few attempts to represent masses of warriors in conflict; the battles were generally dissolved into scattered groups of single combatants, and even the leaders were not specially con- spicuous. Perhaps the reverse might have seemed to recall, in the minds of the early Greeks, the customs of Asiatic despots. At the battle of Issus great masses of troops were dashed against each other. Alexander in person pressed hard upon Darius, whose brother Oxathres interposed himself with his cavalry. The noblest of the Persians fell ; Darius , menaced by the greatest danger , mounted a horse to secure his flight. This is the moment represented by the mosaic. The horse that is to save the king is conspicuous in the centre. Darius, however, thinks not of his urgent need of rescue, but, sunk in grief and horror, gazes on the corpses of his followers ANCIENT A FIT. xliii who have protected him witli their lives. Alexander has dashed for- ward with irresistible strength; his helmet has fallen from his head with the violence of his action; and his mighty spear transfixes Oxathres on his falling horse. The forms of Alexander, Oxathres, and Darius are those first seen and comprehended by the spectator; then he becomes aware of the charioteer urging his horses to flight in hopeless despair, and of the noble Persian who has sprung from his horse and holds it ready for his king. It is a scene of breathless suspense and excitement. The excitement is intensified and ac- centuated by the wildly agitated surroundings of men and horses, overthrown or uninjured. The vividly coloured figures stand out in distinctly defined masses from the clear yellowish atmosphere. Land- scape is represented by little more than an isolated withered tree and a rock, The extended battle-scene rolls before the eye of the beholder like some wild hunt. The point of view, as Ottfried Muller has ob- served, is somewhat low, so that the heads of the figures behind pro- ject but little above those irx front; and, as is usually the case with antique reliefs , the mosaic is treated as though the point of view moved in a straight line parallel to the length of the picture. But within these limits, every difficulty is fairly confronted and over- come. The drawing is free, bold, and absolutely sure and the colour- effects are vigorous and harmonious ; facts which must excite our astonishment, when we reflect that the design has had to be labori- ously reproduced in mosaic -work. The mosaic is composed of numberless cubes , mostly of a small size ; a calculation has been made that no fewer than 1,374,516 cubes have been used in the work. The elegant side-scenes refer to Alexander’s visit to Egypt; and perhaps the original was designed in that country. At all events, from this mosaic we gain an insight into the method pursued by the great painters in their works. A very different and far grander art declares itself in these mosaics than in the wall-paintings. The other mosaics found in this mansion also rank high in point of beauty as well as in precision and purity of drawing, and owing to the difficulties of reproduction in mosaic consequent on the nature of the material the fact becomes doubly suggestive that in effectual and complete mastery of drawing there is nothing in the whole range of Pompeian pictures to surpass the border of masks, garlands, foliage, and fruits of the Casa del Fauno or the mosaics attributed to the artist Dioscorides. But we may well delight in the air of cheerful airy grace pervading these pictorial decorations of Pom- peii , in this precious heritage of Grecian — and in part old Gre- cian — life and beauty which a licentious posterity has scattered over its dazzling walls. The peculiarities and characteristics of the various styles of Greek Architecture may easily be recognized. In the Doric Style the columns rise immediately from the floor of the temple and have no basis; the flut- ings are separated from each other merely by a sharp edge; the capital xliv HISTORY OF NAPLES. consists of an ecliinus, widening from below upwards, and a rectangular abacus or block above; the lowest member of the entablature is an un- divided architrave, above which are alternate sunken panels (metopes) and panels with three perpendicular grooves (triglyphs). In the Ionic Style each column has a special basis; the flutings are separated by very narrow perpendicular faces ; the capital is distinguished by the curved volutes at each side; the architrave is in three parts, and above it is an undivided frieze , frequently adorned with reliefs. In the Corinthian Style the capital is distinguished by its acanthus-leaves ; the architrave resembles that of the Ionic style. The Tuscan or early-Italian column has a capital allied to the Doric, though the echinus is smaller ; the columns are not fluted and each has a special basis. — The following technical terms may be found useful. Temples in which the walls project at the sides so as to be flush with the columns are called temples in antis; those with col- umns in front only are c,dX\Qd. prostyle; those with columns at both ends, ampMprostyle; those with columns all round, peripteral. Hypaethral Temples were those with colonnades surrounding an entirely uncovered court. There were no temples with openings in the roof or in the ceiling of the cella. History of the Kingdom of Naples. The former kingdom of Naples contained at the end of 1879 10,414,000 inhab. (including Benevento) , and is divided into 23 provinces. In ancient times it embraced the tribes of the Volsciy SamniteSj Oscans^ Campanians., Apulians., Lucanians^ Calabrians., Bruttians, Siculians , and a number of others of less importance, all of whom were characterised by the most marked peculiarities of language , custom , and political constitution. The Oscan lan- guage , the one most generally spoken , predominated in Samnium, Campania, Lucania, and Bruttium. On the W. and S.W. coast, and especially in Sicily , Greek colonists settled in such numbers that the S. portion of the Italian peninsula received the name of Magna Qraecia. After the war against Pyrrhus, King of Epirus, in the 3rd cent, before Christ, the Romans became masters of the land, but the Greek language and customs continued to predominate until an advanced period in the Christian era. That this was the case in the time of the early emperors has been distinctly proved by the character of the antiquities of the excavated Oscan towns of Herculaneum and Pompeii. After the fall of the Western Empire this district was occupied by Ostrogoths and Lombards , then by Romans from the E. Empire , who in their turn were constantly harassed by Arabian bands which attacked them by sea , and who finally succumbed in the 11th cent, to the Norman settlers. The Hohenstaufen family next held the country from 1194 to 1266. In 1266 Charles of Anjou gained possession of Naples and established his dominion, which was secured by the cruel execution in 1268 of Conradin, the lawful heir. His power, however, having been impaired by the Sicilian Vespers, 30th May, 1282, rapidly declined in consequence of the crimes and degeneracy of the royal family HISTORY OF NAPLES. xlv ami of disastrous wars witli the island of Sicily, then in possession of the Aragonese. Charles VIII. of France ^ as heir of the Anjou family, undertook a campaign against Naples and gained possession of the kingdom in a few days, hut was unable to retain it. His successor Louis XII. allied himself with Ferdinand the Catholic of Spain with a view to conquer Naples , hut in consequence of dis- sensions was compelled to abandon his enterprise after the victory of Qonsalvo da Cordova on the Liris. Naples, like Sicily and Sardinia, then yielded to the power of Spain, which maintained her dominion till 1713. Gonsalvo da Cordova was the first of the series of Spanish viceroys , many of whom , such as Don Pedro de Toledo under Charles Y. (1532-54) , did much to promote the welfare of the country. The rule of others, especially during the 17th cent., was such as to occasion universal distress and dissatisfaction , a mani- festation of which was the insurrection under Masaniello at Naples in 1647. At the peace of Utrecht in 1713 Philip Y. of Spain, of the house of Bourbon, ceded Naples and Sicily to the house of Hapsburg , but after prolonged conflicts they reverted to his son Charles in 1734, under the name of the ^Kingdom of the Two Sici- lies'. Notwithstanding revolutionary disturbances, the Bourbons continued to reign at Naples until the close of the century. In 1806 Napoleon I. created his brother Joseph king of Naples, who was succeeded in 1808 by his brother-in-law Joachim Murat. In June, 1815, King Ferdinand, who with the aid of the English had meanwhile maintained his ground in Sicily, returned to Naples , and in his person the Bourhon dynasty was restored. The following October, Joachim Murat ventured to land at Pizzo in Calabria , but was captured , tried by court-martial , and shot, 15th Oct., 1815. Popular dissatisfaction, however, still continued, and in 1820 a rebellion broke out in Italy and Sicily, but it was speedily quelled by the Austrians under Frimont in 1821 , who occupied the country till 1827. King Ferdinand I. was succeeded in 1825 by his eldest son Francis /., and the latter in 1830 by Ferdinand //., whose reign was characterised by an uninterrupted succession of internal struggles, partly in Naples and partly in Si- cily , especially after the year 1848. In the spring of 1859, when the war between Sardinia and Austria broke out in N. Italy, which by the peace of Yillafranca would have entirely changed the inter- nal condition of Italy, Ferdinand II. died, and his son Francis II. (married to the Princess Mary of Bavaria) was compelled to yield to the storm which burst forth afresh. In May, 1860, Garibaldi began his victorious march through Sicily and Calabria, which ended at Naples in August. In the meantime the Piedmontese troops, at the instigation of Cavour, had also entered the kingdom of Naples. On 1st Oct. Francis II. was defeated at a skirmish on the Yolturno. On 7th Oct. King Victor Emmanuel and Garibaldi entered Naples side by side amid the greatest popular enthusiasm. xlvi HISTORY OF NAPLES. Francis was then besieged at Gaeta from 4th Nov., 1860, to 13th Feh., 1861, and at length compelled to surrender and retire to Rome. In a land , whose history , like its volcanic soil, has been dis- turbed by a long succession of internal struggles , and where so many and so different nations have ruled, repose and the develop- ment of civilisation must necessarily he difficult of attainment. The present government has adopted a wise course in endeavouring to raise the standard of national education , in energetically sup- pressing the brigandage in the provinces , and the ‘Camorra’ and gangs of thieves in the city , and in introducing a number of re- forms well adapted to improve the condition of the nation. Dates. The following are the most important dates in the history of the Kingdom of Naples (comp. pp. 236-238). I. Period. The Normans , 1042-1194 : 1042, William, son of Tancred of Hauteville , Comes Apulise. — 1059, Robert Guiscard (i.e. ‘the Cunning’), Dux Apulias et Calahriae. — 1130, Roger, proclaimed king after the conquest of Naples and Amalfi, unites the whole of Lower Italy and Sicily. — 1154-66, William I. (‘the Bad’). — 1166-89, William II. (‘the Good’). — 1194, William III. II. Period. The Hohenstaufen, 1194-1268 : 1194, Henry VI. of Germany, I. of Naples. — 1197, Frederick II. — 1250, Conrad. — 1254, Manfred. — 1268, Conradin. HI. Period. House of Anjou^ 1265-1442: 1265, Charles I. of Anjou. From 1282 to 1442 Sicily formed an independent king- dom under the house of Aragon. — 1285, Charles II., ‘the Lame’. — 1309, Robert ‘the Wise’. — 1343, Johanna I. (married Andreas of Hungary). — 1381, Charles III. of Durazzo. — 1386, Ladislaus. — 1414, Johanna II. — 1435, Renato of Anjou, banished by Al- phonse ‘the Generous’. lY. Period. House of Aragon ^ 1442-1496: 1442, Alphonse I., ‘the Generous’. After his death Sicily and Naples were again separated. — 1458, Ferdinand I. — 1494, Alphonso II. — 1495, Ferdinand II. — 1496, Frederick banished (d. 1554 at Tours, the last of the House of Aragon). V. Period. Spanish Viceroys, 1503-1707. — On 7th July, 1707, during the Spanish War of Succession, Count Daun marched into Naples and established the Austrian supremacy. VI. Period. Austrian Viceroys, 1707-1734. — Charles III. of Bourbon , crowned at Palermo 1734 , recognised by the Peace of Vienna 1738, defeats the Austrians at Velletri 1744, finally re- cognised by the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle 1748. In 1758 Charles was proclaimed king of Spain , and resigned the crown of Naples and Sicily in favour of his son. VII. Period. The Bourbons, 1734-1860 : 1734, Charles III. — 1759, Ferdinand IV. (regency.during his minority till 1767), mar- ried Caroline of Austria, sister of Joseph II., but a monarch of MODERN ART. xlvii very dilferent character from the latter. — 2Br(l Jan., 1799, the Repuhhlica Partenopea proclaimed by General Championnet. — 14th June, 1799, the French banished. Reactionary rule of Cardinal Ruffo. — 14th Jan., 1806, Joseph Buonaparte established by Mass^na. — 15th July, 1808, Joachim Murat, king of Naples. — 1816, Ferdinand assumes the title of Ferdinand I. of the Two Sicilies. — 1825, Francis I. — 1830, Ferdinand II. — 1859, Francis II. — 21st Oct., 1860, the Kingdom of Naples annexed to Italy by plebiscite. VIII. Period. House of Savoy. Victor Emmanuel II. (d. 1878). — Since 1878, Humbert I. Art. In art, as in literature , the attainments of the natives of S. Italy have been insignificant. The Norman Period, however, under Arabian influence , produced both on the mainland and in Sicily (p. 242) works of architecture and sculpture which at least hold their own when compared with the contemporaneous monu- ments of Central Italy. These, however, are not found in the metro- polis, but at the seats of the princes and bishops, as Bari^ Tranij Amalfij Ravello, and Salerno. The art of decoration, as applied in mosaic flooring , pulpits , and choir-screens , was in particular brought to great perfection. The brazen doors , at first imported from Constantinople , were afterwards made in the country itself ; thus those at Canosa were executed by a master of Amalfi, and those at Ravello and Trani are the work of a native of the place last named. The arts of mosaic composition and mural painting were sedulously cultivated in S. Italy during the whole of the early middle ages , a fact mainly due to the constant intercourse maintained with Byzantium. — In the Period of Giotto, during which great advances in painting were made throughout the rest of the peninsula, S. Italy remained nearly inactive, content to depend on foreign artists for the supply of her artistic wants. Thus Arnolfo di Cambio, the famous Florentine architect, also practised his profession in the South ; and Pietro Cavallini , the most celebrated Roman painter at the beginning of the 14th cent., Giotto himself (in S. Chiara) , and probably Simone Martini of Siena, all left memorials of their skill in S. Italy. — During the Fifteenth Century the realism of the Flemish school of the Van Eycks produced a marked effect on Neapolitan art. The most important works of this period are the frescoes, unfor- tunately in poor preservation, in the cloisters of S. Severino at Naples. They are associated with the name of Antonio Solario, Ho Zingaro\ an artist of whose life and work we possess most im- perfect and in part misleading accounts. To judge from these paintings he was related in style to the Umbro-Floreutine school. Piero and Ippolito Donzello and Simone Papa are said to have been pupils of Lo Zingaro, but Piero, Donzello at any rate learned his art at Florence. xlviii MODERN ART. In the Sixteenth Century Raphael’s influence extended even to Naples, as is apparent from the works, among others, of Andrea Sabbatini of Salerno, known as Andrea da Salerno^ who flourished in 1480-1545. This artist studied under Raphael at Rome, and, like Polidoro da Caravaggio (1495-1543), was one of the found- ers of the Neapolitan school of the 17th century. — In the Sev- enteenth Century the Neapolitan school is characterised by its ‘naturalistic’ style. Among the most prominent masters were the .Spaniard Oiuseppe Ribera, surnamed lo Spagnoletto (1588-1656), a follower of Caravaggio; the Greek Belisario Corenzio (1558- 1643), a pupil of the last; Giambattista Caracciolo (d. 1641), and his able pupil Massimo Stanzioni (1585-1656). The school of Spagnoletto also produced Aniello Falcone (1600-65), the painter of battle-scenes, and the talented landscape-painter Salvator Rosa (1615-1673). In 1629 Domenichino came from Rome to Naples, to decorate the Cappella del Tesoro for the Archbishop , but seems to have exercised no influence upon Neapolitan art. He fled to Frascati in 1635, to escape the plots laid for him by Ribera, but returned to Naples the following year and died there in 1641. In Luca Giordano (1632-1705), surnamed Fa Presto from his rapid- ity of execution , who also worked at Rome , Bologna , Parma, and Yenice , Neapolitan painting reached a still lower level. — The history of Neapolitan art is as yet imperfectly investigated, but there seems little reason to doubt that farther research will serve to confirm the conclusion that Naples has never been able to dispense with the assistance of foreign artists. I. FllOM U.OME TO NAI’LES. NAI’I-ES AND ITS ENVIllONS. 1. From Rome to Naples via Cassino and Capua ... 1 2. From Rome to Naples via Terracina and Capua ... 11 3. Naples 19 a. Arrival, Hotels, Pensions, Restaurants, Cafes, etc, . 19 b. Carriages, Tramways, Boats 21 c. Bankers , Money Changers, Consulates, Physicians, Hospitals, Baths, Post and Telegraph Office, English Church, etc 23 d. Shops 25 e. Theatres, Street Scenes, Religious and National Festivals 26 f. Duration of Stay and Disposition of Time. Guides . 29 Remarks on the Situation, History, and Characteristics of Naples 30 I. The Side of the City next the Sea (from the Villa Nazionale to the Piazza del Mercato) 32 II. The Toledo (from the Largo della Vittoria through the Strada di Chiaja and the Toledo to the Na- tional Museum. Strada Foria) 39 III. The Old Town. E. Quarters, between the Toledo and the Harbour (from the Strada Medina through the Strada Monteoliveto to the Strada S. Trinita; Porta Capuana ; Cemeteries; Strada de’ Tribunali) 41 IV. The Museo Nazionale 55 V. The Higher Quarters : Capodimonte.^ Corso Viltorio Emanuele, Castel S. Elmo, and S. Martino ... 79 VI. Hill of Posilipo. Excursion to Camaldoli .... 84 4. Western Environs of Naples. — Pozzuoli, Raise, Mi- senum, and Cumse 90 5. Procida and Ischia 103 6. From Naples to Pompeii (and Salerno). Herculaneum 108 7. Mount Vesuvius 112 8. Pompeii 118 9. Castellammare, Sorrento, and Capri 141 10. The Gulf of Salerno. Psestum, Amalfi 158 11. From Naples to Benevento via Nola and Avellino . 172 1. From Rome to Naples via Cassino and Capua. 155 M. Railway in 51 / 4-11 hrs.^ fares by the fast trains, 31 fr., 21 fr. 70 c. ^ by the ordinary trains, 28 fr. 15, 19 fr. 70, 12 fr. 70 c. — Comp. p. xv. The finest views are generally to the left. — For a more detailed description of the stations between Rome and Segni, see Baedeker's Central Italy. Soon after leaving the city, the train diverges from the Civitk Vecchia line. The Sabine and Alban mountains rise on the left. 9M. Ciampino is the junction of the lines to Frascati and to Velletri- 2 Route 1. ANAGNI. From Rome Terracina (p. 11). The Naples line turns to the E. and passes be- tween the Alban mountains, on the right, and the Sabine moun- tains, on the left. 16 M. Monte Compatri, situated to the right, on the slope of the Alban Mts. 21 V2 Zagarolo; 22^/2 Palestrina, both to the left, on the slope of the Sabine Mts. 26^2 M. Labico. — 281/2 M. Valmontone, a small town on an isolated volcanic eminence, possessing a handsome chateau of the Doria Pamphili. The train now enters the valley of the Sacco, the ancient Trerus or Tolerus, and skirts its left bank, running parallel with the ancient Via Latina, the more E. of the two ancient main roads from Rome to Naples. To the right, Monte Fortino, picturesquely situated on the hillside. 331/2 M. Segni (2190 ft.; Locanda di JJlisse Colagiacomo), the junction of a line to Yelletri (p. 11), which is now used by local trains only. The old town, a very ancient place, the Signia of the Romans, said to have been colonised by Tarquinius Priscus and still possessing huge remnants of the ancient walls and gateways , is situated on a hill to the right, about 51/2 M. from the railway. See Baedeker s Central Italy. 39 M. Anagni (Locanda Gallo), once a flourishing town, and in the middle ages frequently a papal residence, lies on the heights to the left, 5 M. from the station (omnibus 1 fr.). At Anagni, on 7th Sept., 1303, Pope Boniface YIII., then considerably ad- vanced in years, was taken prisoner by the French chancellor Guillaume de Nogaret, acting in concert with the Colonnas, by order of King Philippe le Bel, but was set at liberty by the people three days afterwards. The Cattedrale di S. Maria, a well- preserved edifice of the 11th cent. , and pure in style, is adorned with a mosaic pavement by the master Cosmas , and in the crypt with ancient frescoes. The treasury contains ancient papal vest- ments, etc. The ancient town-wall, which probably dates from the Roman period, is well preserved, particularly on the N. side. Remains from the middle ages are abundant. The next towns, with the imposing ruins of their ancient polygonal walls, are also situated on the hills at a considerable distance from the line. This is the territory of the Hernici, with the towns of Anagnia, Aletrium, Ferentinum, and Verulae, which allied themselves with Rome and Latium in B.C. 486, but were subjugated by the Romans, after an insurrection, in B.C. 306. The environs of these towns are picturesque. 42 M. Sgurgola (from which Anagni may also be reached ; 6^/4 M.) is a village on the hill to the right, above the Sacco ; still higher is Carpineto. — 45^2 Morolo. 481/2 M. Ferentino. The town (poor Locanda), situated on the hill (1450 ft.) to the left, 3 M. from the line, the ancient Ferenti- num, a town of the Hernici, was destroyed in the Second Punic War, and afterwards became a Roman colony (pop. 11,000). The ancient town-wall, constructed partly of enormous rectangular blocks and to Naples. OEPIIANO. 1 . Route, 3 partly in the polygonal style, is still traceable tliroughout nearly its whole circuit; a gateway on the W. side especially deserves notice. The castle, the walls of which now form the foundation of the episcopal palace, occupies the liighest ground within the town. The Cathedral is paved with remains of ancient marbles and mosaics. The font in the small church of S. Giovanni Evangelista is ancient. Interesting antiquities and inscriptions will also be observed in other parts of the town. A diligence (1 fr.) plies several times daily from the station to(9V2M.) the town of Alatri (Locanda Centrale^ clean), the ancient Aletrium^ picturesquely situated on an eminence to the N., and presenting an admirably preserved specimen of the fortifications of an ancient city. The town with its gates occupies the exact site of the old town. The "Walls of the castle, constructed of huge polygonal blocks, are still entire ; the gateway attracts special attention. The town and castle were provided with an aqueduct. — At a distance of 3 HI. is the famous Grotta di Colle- pardo , extending upwards of 2000 ft. into the limestone rock , with beautiful stalactites. About 3/4 M. farther on is an extensive depression in the soil, called II Pozzo d'‘Antullo^ several hundred yards in circumference and 200 ft. in depth, overgrown with grass and underwood. On a hill , about 5 M. to the S. E. of Alatri , is situated Veroli , the ancient Verulae^ from which a pleasant road leads to Isola (p. 187; carriage from Alatri to Isola 10-12 fr.). 531/2 M. Frosinone. The town (Locanda de Matteis ; pop. 11,000), situated on the hill, 2 M. to the N.E. of the railway, is identical with the ancient Hernician Frusino^ which was conquered by the Romans in B.C. 304. The relics of walls and other antiquities are scanty, but the situation is very beautiful. 57 M. Ceccano. The village is most picturesquely situated on the hillside to the right of the line, on the right bank of the Sacco, the valley of which now contracts. At the foot of the hill, to the left of the river, once lay the aiucient Fabrateria Vetus^ numerous inscriptions from which are built into the walls of the church by the bridge. A road leads from Ceccano over the hills to Piperno and Terracina (p. 13). — 621/2 M. Pofi. 69 M. Ceprano {Rail. Restaurant, expensive and mediocre, the last of any size before Naples). Outside the station a pleasing glimpse is obtained of the valleys of the Liris and the Tolerus. The town of Ceprano is 21/2 M. from the station. — The train now crosses the Liris, which descends from the N., forming the old boundary of the States of the Church. — 70 M. Isoletta. In tile vicinity, on the right bank of the Liris, in the direction of S. Giovanni in Carico, are the scanty ruins of the ancient Fregellae, a Roman colony founded in B. C. 328, which commanded the passage of the river. It was destroyed by the Romans in B. C. 125, in consequence of an insurrection , and Fabrateria Nova was founded in its stead. A number of antiquities may be seen in the Oiardino Cairo, at the village of aS. Giovanni in Carico, 3 M. from the station. The train now traverses the broad and fertile valley of the Liris, or Qarigliano, as it is called after its union with the Sacco. 75 M. Roccasecca ; branch - line to Sora, which is to be carried on to Avezzano (see R. 14). 1 * 4 Route 1. CASSINO. From Rome 78 M. AquinO) the ancient Aquinum, a small town pictur- esquely situated to the left on the hill and on a mountain-stream, is celebrated as the birthplace of the satirist Juvenal (under Nero) and of the philosopher Thomas Aquinas. The illustrious ‘doctor angelicus’, son of Count Landulf, was born in 1224 in the neigh- bouring castle of Rocca Secca, and was educated in the monastery of Monte Cassino (p. 5). The Emperor Pescennius Niger was also a native of Aquinum. By the side of the Yia Latina may be distin- guished the relics of the ancient Roman town : inconsiderable frag- ments of walls, agateway (Porta 8. Lorenzo), a theatre, remains of temples of Ceres (8. Pietro) and Diana (8. Maria Maddalena), and a triumphal arch. Near the stream are the ruins of 8. Maria Libera, a basilica of the 11th cent., commonly called II Vescovado, occupying the site of an ancient temple , and consisting of handsome nave and aisles. Above the portal is a well-preserved Madonna in mosaic. Beyond Aquino, on a bleak mountain to the left, the cele- brated monastery of Monte Cassino (p. 5) becomes visible. 85^2 Cassino. — Inns. Alb. Varrone, Alb. Cassino, both in the town, about 1/2 M. from the station. Carriages. From the station to the town : ^un posto’, i. e. a seat in a carriage, 50 c., at night 1 fr. ^ Carrozzella, i.e. a small vehicle with one horse, 70 c. or I1/2 fr. ^ ^Carrozza’, B/z or 3 fr. — From the station to the top of Monte Cassino: by day, carrozzella, 1 pers. 3 fr., 2 pers. 4 fr. ; car- rozza, 1 pers. 5, 2-3 pers. 6, 4-5 pers. 7 fr. ^ at night, one or more pers. 10 fr. These fares include the return. For waiting at the top, B /2 fr. is charged for a carrozzella up to 3 hrs., 2 fr. for a carrozza. — Donkey to Monte Cassino 1 fr., with guide and light luggage, IV 2 fr. Cassino, a town with 13,500 inhab. , is picturesquely situated in the plain at the foot of the Monte Cassino, on the small river Rapido (Lat. Vinius'), 3/4 M. from the station, and is commanded by a ruined castle, called La Rocca, It occupies nearly the same site as the ancient Casinum, which was colonised by the Romans in B.C. 312, and was afterwards a flourishing provincial town. On its ruins sprang up the mediaeval town of 8an Oermano, which resumed the ancient name in 1871. Pillars of great antiquity are still to be seen in the churches. Various courts have been held here by popes and em- perors, and in 1230 peace was concluded here between Gregory IX. and Frederick II. The foggy character of the climate is alluded to by the ancients. The town presents few objects of interest. Following the Ro- man road to the S. for 1/2 we see, on the right, the colossal remains of an Amphitheatre , which , according to an inscription preserved at Monte Cassino , was erected by Ummidia Quadratilla at her own expense. The foundress is mentioned by Pliny in his letters (vii. 24) as a lady of great wealth, who even in her old age was an ardent admirer of theatrical performances. A little higher up stands a square monument built of large blocks of travertine, now converted into the church Del Crocefisso (custodian 15-20 c. ; interesting), with four niches, and surmounted by a dome. Opposite, lo Naples. MONTE GASSING. 1 . Route . 5 on the bank of tlie Rapido, lay the villa of M. Terentiiis Varro, where, as we are informed by Cicero (Phil. ii. 40), M. Antony after- wards indulged in his wild orgies. — The path leading back to the town from the Crocelisso is probably the ancient Via Latina, and traces of ancient pavement are occasionally observed. From this path, by keeping to the high ground to the left, we may proceed to Monte Cassino without returning to the town. A Visit to Monte Cassino requires about 5hrs. (carr., see p. 4 ). The road ^^^^0 affords exquisite views of the valley of the Garigliano and che surrounding mountains. 1: 50.000 ? - *1 ^ ClulomBtri The monastery of *Monte Cassino (1715 ft.) was founded by St. Benedict in 529, on the site of an ancient temple of Apollo, to which Dante alludes (Parad. xxii. 37), and from its magnificent situation alone would be entitled to a visit. The monastery, which has been declared a ‘National Monument’, and continues its existence in the form of an educational establishment with about 40 monks and 200 pupils, has ever been conspicuous for the admirable manner in which its inmates have discharged their higher duties. The revenues once amounted to 100,000 ducats per annum, but are now reduced to about 80,000. The extensive edifice resembles a castle rather than a monastery and accommodates in all about 350 inmates. Trav- ellers who wish to dine or spend the night here should apply imme- diately on arriving to the padre forestieraio. Ladies receive refresh- ments only. Guests should contribute to the monastic fund at least as much as they would pay in a hotel for similar accommodation. The present entrance was constructed in 1881 , to the right of the low passage through the rock which was formerly used; near the latter moctBK 6 Route 1. MONTE CASSINO. From Rome St. Benedict is said to have had his cell, which has lately been restored {ind decorated with frescoes. Several Courts are connected by arcades. The first, adorned with statues of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scho- lastica , has a fountain of excellent water. On a square space higher up, enclosed by columns from the ancient temple of Apollo , stands the Church, erected in 1637-1727 to replace the ancient edifice founded by St. Benedict. The fortunes of the abbey are recorded in Latin above the entrance of the hall. The principal door of the church is of bronze and is inscribed with a list, inlaid in silver, of all the possessions of the abbey in 10G6. It was executed at Constantinople by order of the Abbot Desiderius, afterwards (1086) Pope Victor III. The interior is richly de- corated with marble, mosaics, and paintings. On each side of the high- altar is a mausoleum ^ one to the memory of Piero de’ Medici (p. 18), who was drowned in the Garigliano in 1503, executed by Francesco Sangallo by order of Clement VII. ^ the other that of Guidone Fieramosca, last Prince of Mignano. Beneath the high-altar, with its rich marble decorations, re- pose the remains of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica. The sub- terranean chapel contains paintings by Marco da Siena and Mazzaroppi. The choir-stalls are adorned with admirable carving (by Goliccio^ 1696), and the chapels adjoining the altar with costly mosaics. Above the doors and on the ceiling are frescoes by Luca Giordano (1677), representing the miracles of St. Benedict and the foundation of the church. The organ is one of the finest in Italy. In the refectory is a ‘Miracle of the Loaves’, by Bassano. At a very early period the Library was celebrated for the MSS. executed by the monks. To the Abbot Desiderius of the 11th cent, we are probably indebted for the preservation ofVarro, and perhaps of other authors. The handsome saloon at present contains a collection of about 10,000 vols., among which are numerous rare editions published during the infancy of the printer’s art. The MSS. and documents are preserved in the Archives, in the passage leading to which a number of inscriptions are built into the wall, most of them rescued from the ruins of the ancient Casinum. Among the MSS. are : the commentary of Origen on the Epistle to the Romans, translated by Rufus, dating from the 6th cent. ^ a Dante with mar- ginal notes, of the 14th cent, (the archives contain an interesting portrait of the poet) ^ the vision of the monk Alberic, which is said to have sug- gested the first idea on which Dante founded his work ; various classical authors, the original MSS. of Leo of Ostia and Riccardo di San Germano. The archives also comprise a collection of about 800 documents of em- perors , kings, dukes, etc., and the complete series of papal bulls which relate to Monte Cassino, beginning with the 11th cent., many of them with admirable seals and impressions. Among the letters are those exchanged by Don Erasmo Gattola^ the historian of the abbey, with learned contem- poraries. At the end of an Italian translation of Boccaccio’s ‘De Claris Mulieribus’ is a letter of Sultan Mohammed II. to Pope Nicholas IV., complaining of the pontiff’s preparations for war and promising to be converted as soon as he should visit Rome, together with an unfavour^ able answer from the pope. An ancient bath-seat in rosso antico, found on the bank of the Liris, is also preserved here. — The Pinacotheca con- tains pictures by Novelli^ Spagnoletto^ and others. The monastery commands a magnificent *Prospect in all directions, which the visitor should not omit to enjoy from the different points of view. To the W. and S. extends the broad valley of the Garigliano with its numerous villages, separated from the Gulf of Gaeta by a range of hills 5 the sea is occasionally distinguishable. To the E. is the valley of S. Germano, commanded by the rocky summits of the Abruzzi. To the N. a wild mountainous district. Close to the Monte Cassino rises the Monte Cairo (5480 ft.), which may be ascended in 3-4 hrs. (guides at the monastery); the view from the summit is considered one of the finest in Italy. Continuation of Journey to Naples. To tlie left, beyond S. Germano, we perceive the villages of Cervaro^ S. Vittore^ and to Naples. CAPUA. 1. Route. 7 S. Pietro in Fine. 92 M. Rocca d’Evandro. The train quits the valley of the Garigliano, and enters a richly cultivated delile, beyond which the country towards the right becomes flatter. 96 M. Mig- nano. The train now runs through a barren, undulating tract. 101 M. Presenzano, which lies on the slope to the left. — 105^2 M- Caianello- Vairano. From Caianello to Isernia, 28 V 2 M , railway in about I 3/4 hr. — 41/2 M. Presenzano (see above); 8 M. Sesto Campano ; 10 M. Capriati al Vol~ turno.^ with the village of Capriato to the right. — 13 M. Venafro, a small town with a ruined castle, was noted under the Romans for its oil (Hor., Odes II. 6, 15). — 171/2 M. Rocca Ravindola; 2 O 1/2 M. Monteroduni; 24 M. S. Agapito. — 281/2 M. hernia.^ see p. 185. 110 M. Riardo ; the village, with an old castle, lies on the left. 113 M. Teano; the town (Alb. Lancellotti; 5000 inhab.) lies at some distance to the right, at the base of the lofty Rocca Monfina, an extinct volcano (3420 ft.), which may be visited from this point. The extensive, but dilapidated old castle was erected in the 15th cent, by the dukes of Sessa. Ancient columns in the cathedral, inscriptions, remains of a theatre, and other antiquities are now the sole vestiges of the venerable Teanum Sidicinum^ once the capital of the Sidicini, which was conquered by the Samnites in the 4th cent. B.C., was afterwards subjugated by the Romans, and in Strabo’s time was the jnost flourishing inland city of Cam- pania after Capua. 118 M. Sparaniscy the junction of the line to Gaeta (p. 18). To tbe left, about 4 M. to the N.E. of the railway, lies Calvi., the ancient Gales., a Roman colony founded B. C. 332, the wine of which (vinum Calenum) is praised by Horace. It now consists of a few houses only, but contains an ancient amphitheatre, a theatre, and other anti- quities. Carriage with one horse from Capua, and back, 2-3 fr. As the train proceeds we obtain for the first time a view of Mt. Vesuvius in the distance to the right, and then of the island of Ischia in the same direction. 121^2 M. Pignataro. The train here intersects the plain of the Volturno, a river 94 M. in length, the longest in Lower Italy. We now enter upon the vast plains of the ancient Campania (now Terra di Lavoro), one of the most luxuriant districts in Europe , which is capable of yielding , in addition to the produce of the dense plantations of fruit-trees and vines, two crops of grain and one of hay in the same season. 127 M. Capua. — Albergo & Trattoria del Centro, in the Piazza de’ Giudici. — Carriage from the station to the town with one horse (cittadina) 30, with two horses (carrozza) 50 c. ; per hour, 1 or 2 fr. ; to Caserta 2 or 4 fr. ; to Aversa 3 or 6 fr. ; to S. Maria di Capua Vetere 1 or 2 fr.; to S. Angelo in Formis 1 fr. 20 or 2 fr. 50 c. Capita, a fortified town with 14,000 inhab., the residence of an archbishop, lies on the left bank of the Volturno, by which the greater part of it is surrounded. It was erected in the 9th cent., after the destruction of the ancient Capua, on the site of Cast- linum., a town which was conquered by Hannibal after an obstinate resistance, and fell to decay in the time of the emperors. 8 Route 1. S. MAEIA DI CAPUA VETERE. From Rome Turning to the right on entering the town, and taking the first street to the left, we reach the Piazza de’ Giudici, or market-place, in 6 min., and then enter the Via del Duomo to the right. The Cathedral, dating from the 11th cent., possesses a hand- some entrance-court with ancient columns, hut in other respects has been entirely modernised. Interior. 3rd Chapel on the left: Madonna della Rosa of the 13th century. 3rd Chapel on the right: Madonna with two saints by Silvestro Buoni. The Crypt, dating from the Romanesque period, but now mod- ernised, contains Mosaics from an old pulpit, a Roman Sarcophagus with a representation of the Hunt of Meleager, and a Holy Sepulchre by Ber- nini^ being one of his best works. The Via del Duomo, passing through an archway, leads to the Corso Museo Campano. (Proceeding thence in a straight direction, we may reach the ramparts, which command a pleasing view of the Volturno.) In this street, on the right, is situated the Museo Campano, which is entered from the first side-street on the right. It is open daily, 9-3 o’ clock, except on Sundays and festivals. The Court contains reliefs from the amphitheatre of Capua (see p. 9); inscriptions; ancient sarcophagi, including one of the period of Con- stantine; mediseval tomb-monuments ; a sitting statue of Frederick II. (sadly mutilated and without its head), which formerly surmounted the gateway of the tete-de-pont constructed by him on the right bank of the Volturno about 1240, and destroyed in 1557; heads of statues of Petrus de Vineis (?) and Thaddseus of Suessa (?), and a colossal head of ‘Capua Imperiale’’ (casts at the Museo Nazionale in Naples), also from Frederick II. ’s tete-de-pont. The rooms in the Interior contain ancient terracottas, vases, coins, a few pictures of little value, and a small library. The bridge across the Volturno, restored in 1756, is adorned with a statue of St. Nepomuc. Beyond it is an inscription in memory of the Emperor Frederick II. The Torre Mignana within, and the Cappella de^ Morti without the town commemorate the sanguinary attack made on Capua by Csesar Borgia in 1501, on which occasion 5000 lives were sacrificed. On our left after the train has crossed the Volturno, lies the battle-field on which King Francis II. was defeated by the Gari- baldians and Piedmontese on 1st Oct., 1860. 130 M. S. Maria di Capua Vetere (Loc. Roma; Trattoria Ver- mont di Torino jYia. Alessandro Milbitz, leading to the Amphitheatre) is a prosperous town, on the site of the ancient Capua, containing considerable ruins. Capita^ founded by the Etruscans and afterwards occupied by Samnite tribes, entered into alliance with the Romans B.C. 343, for the sake of protec- tion against the attacks of theSamnites of the mountains. Owing to the luxur- iant fertility of the district, the power and wealth of the city developed them- selves at an early period. It was the largest city in Italy after Rome, but soon became noted for its effeminacy and degeneracy. In the Second PunicWar, after the battle of Cannse (B.C. 216), it entered into an alliance with Hannibal, who took up his winter-quarters here. That his soldiers became so enervated by their residence at Capua as no longer to be a match for the Romans, is doubtless a mere hypothesis. Certain, however, it is, that the Romans soon obtained the superiority, and after a long siege reduced the town, B.C. 211. Its punishment was a severe one , and the inhabitants were entirely deprived of all civic to Naples. CASEUTA. 1. Route. 9 privileges. It was rescued from its abject condition by Ceesar, and under bis successors regained its ancient splendour. It continued to prosper until the wars of tbe Goths, Vandals, and Lombards. In the 8th cent, it was destroyed hy the Saracens, and the inhabitants emigrated to the modern Capua (p. 7j. Proceeding straight from the station, taking the first street to the left, and following the Via Alessandro Milhitz in nearly the same direction to its farther end (5 min.), we turn to the left into the Via Anflteatro, which leads in a curve round, the town to (10 min.) the ancient amphitheatre. Before reaching it, we cross an open space where we observe, on the left, the ruins of a Roman Triumphal Arch, now a gate, through which the Capua road passes. The '‘'Amphitheatre of Capua (adm. 1 fr. for each pers.), which is said to be one of the largest and most ancient in Italy, is con- structed of travertine. The longer diameter is 185 yds., the shorter 152 yds. in length. The arena measures 83 yds. by 49 yds. Three of its passages are tolerably well preserved, but of the 80 en- trance-arches two only. The keystones are decorated with images of gods. The Arena, with its substructures, passages, and dens for the wild beasts (to which a staircase descends from the passage to the left), is, like that of Pozzuoli, better defined than the arena of the Colosseum at Rome. The Passages contain remains of ancient decorations , fragments of columns, bas-reliefs, etc. To the right, near the entrance, the visitor may ascend to the upper part of the structure, in order to obtain a survey of the ruins themselves, and of the extensive surrounding plain. Large schools were once maintained at Capua for the training of gladiators, and it was here in B.C. 83, that the War of the Gladiators under Spartacus the Thracian broke out, which was with difficulty quelled by Crassus two years later. Above Capua rises Mons Tifata, once the site of a temple of Jupiter, now crowned by a chapel of S. Nicola. At its base, about 41/2 M. from S. Maria, stands the old church of 8. Angelo in Formis, with frescoes o the 11th cent, (valuable in the history of art), occupying the site of a celf ebrated temple of Diana, around which a village had established itself. - The highroad from Capua to Maddaloni (p. 10) via S. Maria and Oaserta presents a scene of brisk traffic. The road from S. Maria to Oaserta (a drive of 3/4 hr.) passes two liandsome Roman tombs. 134 M. Oaserta. — Hotels. Vittoria, with garden; Villa Reale, well spoken of, both in the Via Vittoria; Villa di Firenze, near the palace, R., L., & A. 2 V 2 , pens. 8 fr.; all with trattorie. — In the round piazza with its colonnades, at the entrance to the town from the palace, is a favourite Caf4. Carriage with one horse, per drive within the town or to the station, 35 c., with two horses 60 c.; drive in the royal gardens (‘le Reali Delizie’), per hr. with one horse, 1 fr. 30 c.^ with two horses, 2 V 2 fr., each additional 1/2 br. 50 or 85 c. ; to S. Maria di Capua Vetere 1 fr. 40 or 2 fr. 30, to Capua 2 fr. 25 or 3 fr. 90 c. For a Visit to the Palace (interior 12-4; the garden till sunset) a per- messo from the royal intendant at the Palazzo Reale at Naples (p. 35) is required, but it may, if necessary, be obtained through one of the hotel- keepers at Caserta. Fee 1 fr.; for the chapel 25 c. Caserta, a clean and well-built town with 19,000 inbab. (‘com- mune’ 30,600) and a large garrison, may be called the Versailles of Naples. It possesses several palaces and barracks, and is the residence of the prefect of the province of Caserta. It was founded in the 8 th cent, by the Lombards on the slope of the liill, but the modern town stands on lower ground. 10 Route 1 MADDALONI. From Rome The *Royal Palace of Caserta, opposite the station, was erected in 1752, by Vanvitelli^ hy order of King Charles III., in the richest Italian palatial style. It forms a rectangle. The S. side is 830 ft. long and 134 ft. high, with thirty-seven windows in each story. The courts of the palace are traversed by a colonnade, from the centre of which ascends the handsome marble staircase, with 116 steps. The marble statue of Yaiivitelli , hy Buccini , was erected in 1879. The palace is at present unoccupied. The Chapel, decorated with marble, imitated lapis lazuli, and gold, contains a ‘Presentation in the Temple’ by Mengs^ five paintings by Conca^ and an altar-piece by Bonito. — The Theatre is adorned with twelve Corinthian columns of African marble from the temple of Serapis at Pozzuoli, and contains forty boxes, besides that appropriated to the royal family. The ^Garden, with its lofty pruned hedges, contains beautiful fountains and cascades, adorned with statues. The grand terrace above the cascade (2 M. from the palace) affords beautiful points of view. The Botanical Garden is interesting as proving that the trees of the colder north can be grown here with success. The Ca- sino Reale di S. Leucio, in the park, about 2 M. to the N., near some large silk-factories, commands another fine prospect. About 3 M. to the N.E. of the palace, on an elevated site, is Caserta Vecchia, with several interesting deserted palaces and the 12th cent, church of S. Michele. From Caserta and from Capua there are roads to Caiazzo (about 9 M.) and on to Piedimonte d''Alife (rustic Inn) , prettily situated about 15 M. from Caiazzo, with flourishing mills, founded by Swiss merchants, at the foot of the Matese^ the highest summit of which {Monte Miletto^ 6725 ft.) may be ascended from Piedimonte in 5-6 hrs. On the top there is a lake sur- rounded by woods. View as far as the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian Sea. Caserta is the junction of the Naples and Foggia railway (R. 17), which runs on the hillside, to the left, as far as Maddaloni , the next station, and for the branch-line to Castellammare (30 Y2 in 2 hrs. ; fares 5 fr. 55, 3 fr. 90, or 2 fr. 50 c.). The latter follows the main line as far as Cancello, where it diverges to the left and runs round the E. and S. sides of Mt. Vesuvius, past the stations of Marigliano ^ Ottaiano^ S. Giuseppe^ Terzigno^ and Boscoreale^ to Torre Annunziata, the junction of the railway from Naples to Castellam- mare and Gragnano (pp. Ill, 141). 138 M. Maddaloni (20,000 inhab.), situated to the left, with an extensive deserted palace of the Caraffa family, is commanded by a ruined castle. On the Foggia line are the (2^2 M.) Ponti della Valle (see p. 204), a celebrated aqueduct constructed by Vanvi- telli to water the gardens of Caserta, and usually visited hence. I4IY2 Cancello^ whence branch-lines diverge to Castellam- mare (see above) and to Avellino (R. 11). About IV 2 M. to theS.W. of Cancello, among the woods (Bosco d’' Acovia)^ are the insignificant ruins of the ancient Oscan Suessula. The rich se- pulchral remains found here, chiefly vases and bronze ornaments, are preserved in the neighbouring Villa Spinelli. The old highroad from Cancello to Benevento leads by S. Felice and Arienzo^ and then passes through a narrow defile, considered by many to to Naples, VELLKTRl. 5. Route. 1 1 be identical with the Furculae Caudinae which proved so disastrous to the fortunes of Rome, whence it ascends to the village of Arpaia. It next passes the small town of Montesarchio (the ancient Gandiurn according to some), with its castle, once the residence of the d’Avalos family, and re- cently used as a state prison, in which, among others, the well-known Poerio (d. 1867) was confined (comp. p. 40). To the left we observe Monte Somma (p. 118), which conceals Vesuvius. 146 M. Acerra (14,500 inhab.) was the ancient Acerrae^ to which the Roman citizenship was accorded as early as B. C. 332. The train crosses the trenches of the Regi Lagni^ which drain the marshes of Pantano delV Acerra, the ancient Clanius, now VAgno, and form the boundary between the provinces of Caserta and Naples. 148 M. Casalnuovo. Vesuvius becomes visible on the left. 155 M. Naples. Arrival, see p. 19. 2. From Rome to Naples via Terracina and Capua, 166 M. From Rome to Terracina, M., Railway in 43/4 hrs. (no fast trains)^ fares 13 fr. 50, 9 fr. 70, 6 fr. 25 c. — From Terracina to Formia, 21 V 2 M., Diligence twice daily (at 7 a.m. and 1.30 p.m.^ from Formia at 4.30 and 7 p.m.) in 41/2 hrs., fare 4 fr. ; carr. 10-12 fr. — Gaeta is now visited from Formia by railway, 51/2 M. in 20 min. (fares 1 fr., 70 c., 50 c., there and back 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15, 75 c.). — From Formia via Sparanise to Naples, 69 M., Railway in 43 / 4-574 hrs.; fares 12 fr. 60, 8 fr. 80, 5 fr. 70 c. From Rome to (9 M.) Ciarripino, see p. 1. The line diverges from the Naples line towards the S. — IO1/2 Frattocchie. On the left rise the Alban hills. — 18 M. Cecchina, whence a steam-tramway runs to Albano. To the right we obtain a glimpse of Monte Cir cello (1030 ft. ; p. 14), rising abruptly from the sea ; nearer are the Volscian Mts. — 20^/2 M. Civita Lavinia, the ancient Lanuvium. 26 M. Velletri {Locanda Campana, Gallo, both good, with trat- torie), the ancient Velitrae, a town of the Volscians, which became subject to Rome in B.O. 338, is famous for its wine (pop. 8000). It stands picturesquely on a spur of the Monte Artemisio, 6 min. from the station. Velletri is the residence of the Bishop of Ostia. The loggia ot the Palazzo Lancelotti Gomma,nds a beautiful and extensive view. In the new cemetery, where Garibaldi defeated the Neapolitan troops on 19th May, 1849, a column of victory was erected in 1883. From Velletri to Segni, 15 M., railway in 3/4 br., visi (6 M.) Ontanese and (10 M.) Artena. The Terracina line intersects a desolate plain. 33 M. Oiulianello» Farther on, the line skirts the slopes of Monte Calvello. 36(/2M- Cori (Alb. delV TJnione). The railway-station lies about 2(^2 below the old town, the ancient Cora, which claimed to have been founded by the Trojan Dardanus or by Coras and still prospered during the Roman empire. To its former importance, the remains of the ancient walls, constructed of huge polygonal blocks, the portico of the so-called Temple of Hercules, and the remains of a Temple of Castor and Pollux still bear testimony. For farther details, see Bae- deker s Central Italy. 12 Route 2. PONTINE MARSHES. From Rome 38 M. Cisterna (Inn), with a castle of the Gaetani, situated 3 M. from the station on the last hill before the Pontine marshes, was called Cisterna Neronis in the middle ages, and is believed to occupy the site of the ancient Tres Tabernae where the apostle Paul on his journey met the friends coming from Rome to welcome him (Acts, 28). — 431/2 M. Ninfa^ a deserted mediseval town, the ivy-clad ruins of which date mainly from the 12- 13th centuries. The malaria which reigns here in summer has been the cause of its abandonment. 45 Y 2 Sermoneta-Norma. To the left, on an eminence, stands Sermoneta, with an ancient castle of the Gaetani family. Higher up lies the small mountain-village of Norma, below the ancient Norha, which was destroyed by the troops of Sulla during the civil wars, and is still surrounded by the well-preserved remains of a wall in the polygonal style, 172^* in circumference, with several gates and towers. Farther on, the line skirts the Pontine Marshes f Paiwdi Pontmij, which vary in breadth between the mountains and the sea from 6 to 11 M. , and from Nettuno to Terracina are 31 M. in length. A considerable part of them is now cultivated, and they afford exten- sive pastures, the most marshy parts of which are the resort of the buffalo. Towards the sea the district is clothed with forest (mac- chia). The malaria in summer is a dreadful scourge. According to Pliny (Hist. Nat. iii. 5), these marshes were anciently a fertile and well-cultivated plain, occupied by twenty-four villages, but towards the close of the republic gradually fell into their present con- dition owing to the decline of agriculture. A want of fall in the sur- face of the soil is the cause of the evil. The streams and canals are totally inadequate to carry off the excess of water which descends from the mountains during the rainy season, and its escape is further impeded by the luxuriant vegetation of the aquatic plants. Attempts to drain the marshes were successively made by the censor Appius Claudius in B. C. 312 (so says tradition), by the consul Cornelius Cethegus 130 years later, by Caesar, Augustus, Nerva, Trajan, and finally by Theodoric, King of the Goths, all of which were of temporary benefit only. Similar operations were undertaken by the popes Boniface VIII., Martin V., Sixtus V., and Pius VI. To the last is due the present admirably constructed road across the marshes, the cost of which amounted to 1,622,000 scudi (350,000 Z. sterling). At present the drainage is carried out in a most practical and comprehen- sive manner by the proprietors themselves, under the direction of the ‘Ufficio della bonificazione delle paludi Pontine’’ at Terracina. 52 M. Sezze {Locanda Nazionale, in the Piazza, unpretending) ; the town of this name, with 6300 inhab., lies about 1 hr.’s walk /rom the station, and is the ancient Setia of the Yolscians, a Roman colony after 382 B.O., and frequently mentioned in the Italian wars up to the time of Sulla. Under the empire its name was remembered only on account of its wine, which Augustus preferred even to Falernian. Considerable remains of its ancient walls, which are built of massive square blocks, have been preserved. The rough rusticated work here is an unusual feature, for most ancient town- walls are carefully smoothed. A massive substructure in the same style, below (to the left) the entrance of the town, has been arbitrarily named Tempio di Saturno. to Naples. TF^RliAOlNA. 2. Route. 13 To the riglit tlio highroad leads straight on througli the Pontine plain, following the ancient Via Appia^ the famous road constructed during the Samnite war, IhO. 312, by Appius Claudius, the censor (see p. 12). On this side also is the streamlet IJffente.^ the Ufens of the ancients. On the left rise the slopes of Monte Trevi^ crowned by the ruins of a town destroyed in the 16th century. 61 M. Piperno (Locanda Serafim, tolerable) was founded early in the middle ages by refugees from the ancient Volscian town of Privernurn. The Cathedral, in the picturesque piazza, was built in 1283 and modernised in the interior in 1782. Pop. 5000. The railway crosses the Amaseno and affords a picturesque view of its valley, which is enclosed by lofty mountains studded with ruined castles and villages : Rocca Gorga, Maenza, Rocca Secca, Prossedi, etc. — 64 M. Sonnino, once famous for the picturesque costumes of its women and for the audacity of its brigands. About 1 M. from the station of Sonnino is the Cistercian convent of Fossanova, where St. Thomas Aquinas died in 1274 while on his way to the Council of Lyons. The! convent-church, built about 1225, with rectangular choir and an octangular tower over the crossing, is one of the earliest examples of Italian Gothic. It has recently been restored. The cloisters, chapter-house, and refectory are also interesting. One of the rooms contains a relief of St. Thomas Aquinas, by Bernini. The line turns to the S. — , 69 M. Frasso. On the slope of Monte Leano once lay the sacred grove and fountain of Feronia mentioned by Horace (Sat. i. 5, 23). We now join the Via Appia. To the right, 11-12 M. distant, the Promontorio Circeo (p. 14) is visible on the whole journey, from Velletri onwards. 75^2 M. Terracina. — Hotels. Grand Hotel Royal, at the S. en- trance to the town , with a view of the sea at the back , R, 1 fr. 25 c. ; Locanda Nazionale, in the Piazza, unpretending. — Restaurants. Sirene, Posta, both good and moderate. Terracina, situated conspicuously on a rocky eminence (Hor., Sat. i. 5, 26), the Anxur of the ancient Yolscians, and the Tarra- cina of the Romans, was an ancient episcopal residence, and con- stitutes the natural frontier town between Central and Southern Italy. Pop. 6300. The harbour, the ancient mole of which may still be traced, is completely filled up. The highroad intersects the extensive but thinly peopled quarter of the town which was founded by Pius VI., while the old town is built on the slope of the hill. Above the latter extend the ruins of the ancient city, crowned by the remains of the temple of Jupiter. The garden of the papal secretary Count Antonelli (d. 1876) , in the new quarter, deserves a visit (entrance at No. 13). The Cattedrale S. Cesareo, in the ancient Forum, the pave- ment of which is well preserved, occupies the site of a Temple of Roma and of Augustus, dedicated to that emperor by A. ^Emilius, who also caused the forum to be paved. In the travertine slabs the inscription ‘A. ^Emilius F. F.’ is distinctly legible in large letters. The vestibule of the cathedral rests on ten ancient columns, 1 1 Route 2. TERRACINA. From Rome with recumbent lions and other animals at their bases. On the right is a large granite basin, which, according to the inscription, was used in torturing the early Christians. The beautiful fluted columns of the canopy in the interior are antique. The pulpit, with its ancient mosaics, rests on columns with lions at their bases. In the chapter-house is a reliquary of carved wood (9th cent.?). — The clock-tower (ascended by 91 steps) commands an extensive prospect. The summit of the promontory ^ Monte Teoderico' may he attained in V2-% lir., either, directly from the new town by a steep path to the right of the new church, or (more conveniently) from the old town, by ascending to the right, under the archway adjoining the cathedral. The latter route is partly by an ancient road passing re- mains of tombs and ancient walls, and then to the right by a gap in the wall encircling the olive-plantations, and through the latter along the dividing wall. The summit is occupied by the remains of an imposing Temple of the Beardless Jupiter^ 110 ft. long and 65 ft. broad, standing upon a terrace partly supported by arcades. The cella, which was embellished with pilasters on the walls and a mosaic pave- ment, still contains the pedestal for the sacred statue. Until the excavations of 1894 the arcades were regarded as the remains of a palace of Theodoric the Ostrogoth. Magnificent *View. Towards the W. the prospect embraces the plain as far as the Alban Mts., then the Monte Circello; towards the S. are the Pontine or Ponza Islands, the N.W. group of which comprises Ponza (Pontise, once a Roman colony), Palmarola (Palmaria), and Zannone (Sinnonia), all of volcanic origin, and the S. group Ventotene and S. Stefano; between the groups lies he small island of La Botte. The islands are still used, as in ancient times, as a place of detention for convicts. (Steamer from Naples, see p. lOo.) Ventotene is the Pandateria of melancholy celebrity, to which Augustus banished his abandoned daughter Julia, and Tiberius relegated Agrippina, the daughter of Julia, and where Nero is said to have caused his divorced wife Octavia to be put to death. Towards the E. the plain of Fondi is visible; the village on the sea is Sperlonga (p. 16); farther off is the promontory of Gaeta with the tomb of Munatius Plancus (p. 18), and finally the Island of Ischia. At the S. egress of the town is the Taglio di Pisco Montano^ an interesting piece of Roman engineering. The promontory ap- proaches close to the sea, in consequence of which Appius origin- ally conducted his road over the hill. At a later period the rocks were removed for the construction of a new and more spacious road. On the perpendicular wall thus produced the depth is indi- cated at intervals of lO’Roman feet, beginning from the top ; the lowest mark, a few feet|above the present road, is CXX. A good path leads along the shore in 3-4 hrs. to the (11 M.) Monte Circeo, or Circello (1030 ft.), the Promonturium Circeium of the ancients, the traditional site of the palace and grove of the enchantress Circe, de- scribed by Homer. Accommodation of a rustic character may be obtained at Oius. Galisfs in San Felice Circeo. From here a good footpath, follow- ing the telegraph-wires and passing a little above a fine cyclopean wall, called Cittadella Vecchia.^ leads to the signal-station {Semdforo ; 1475 ft.) in 1 hr. The *View from here is magnificent: to the S.E. Ischia, Capri, and Mt. Vesuvius are distinctly visible; to the N.W. the dome of St. Pe- ter’s may be distinguished in clear weather ; to the N. we see the moun- to Naples. FONDI. 2. Route. 1 5 tains as far as Vcllctri^ to (be S. is the sea, with the Pontine Islands (see p. 14). An unimpeded view is enjoyed from the top of tlie mountain (1775 ft.), which is reached from S. Felice, with guide (1-1 7*2 fr.), in about 2 V 2 hrs. by a stony and rather toilsome path. On the summit are the re- mains of a Temple of Circe. — The hill is strewn with ruins of the ancient town of Circeiiy which became a Roman colony in B.C. 393 and still existed in Cicero’s time. Thus, about halfway up the hill, under a group of lofty trees, is a low parapet of Roman workmanship enclosing a well called the Fontana di Mezzo Monte. At another point is the Fonte della Bagnaia.^ also with fragments of Roman masonry. Remains of Roman palaces and aqueducts have also been found at Lago di Paola.^ a small lake at the N. base of the promontory (where large oyster-beds were maintained by the Romans), among them the so-called Piscina di Lucullo. Cicero and Atti- cus, Tiberius and Domitian frequently resorted to this spot. — The sea- ward side of the hill is honeycombed with grottoes, some of them of great extent, and accessible by boat only. — Hurried travellers may visit the Semdforo from Terracina in 1 day, there and back. The Highroad beyond Terracina still follows the direction of the Via Appia, close to the sea, and is flanked by remains of ancient tombs. This pass was the ancient Lautulae. Here, in B.C. 315, the Romans fought a battle with the Samnites, and in the Second Punic War Fahius Maximus kept Hannibal in check at this point. On a hill about 1/2 is situated the monastery of Retiro, on the site of the villa in which the emperor Galba was born. Then to the right is the Lake ofFondi, the Lacus Fundanus or Amyclanus of the ancients, named after the town of Amyclae which is said to have been founded here by fugitive Laconians. The village towards the E. on the slope facing the sea is Sperlonga (see p. 16). The papal frontier was formerly at Torre delV Epitafio. We next reach the gateway of the tower de' Confini^ or La Poriella., 4 M. from Terracina. On a height to the left is the village of Monte San Biagio or Monticelli; by the roadside are fragments of tombs. The next place (11 M. from Terracina) is Fondi (5000 inhab.), the ancient Fundi., where Horace derides the pride of a civic official ‘with broad purple border and censer’ (Hor., Sat. i. 5, 34). Change of horses, and halt of 1/4 hr- (tolerable inn). Considerable remains of the ancient Town Walls are preserved. The principal street coincides with the ancient Via Appia. The Chateau, part of which adjoins the cathedral, is miserably dilapidated. Some of the window- frames and decorations in the Renaissance style testify to its ancient splendour. In the 16th cent, it belonged to the Colonnas, and in 1534 it was occupied by the beautiful Countess Giulia (lonzaga. One night the countess narrowly escaped being captured by the daring pirate Haireddin Barbarossa, who purposed conveying her to the Sultan Soliman II. Exasperated by his failure , he wreaked his vengeance on the town, as an inscription in the church records. The town was again destroyed by the Turks in 1594. In the vicinity is the church of S. Maria in the Gothic style, with an ancient facade and portal, disfigured in the interior by whitewash. The choir con- tains an episcopal throne with mosaics of the 11th cent., and on 16 Route 2. FORMIA. From Rome the right a Madonna by Silvestro de’ Buoni. A chapel is shown in the Dominican Monastery in which Thomas Aquinas once taught ; the monastery also contains a small museum with ancient tombstones. Beyond Fondi the road traverses the plain for 3 M., after which it ascends Monte S. Andrea through mountain -ravines. The Yia Appia runs along the opposite slope on substructures of masonry, which are continued also in the poor town of Itri, with a ruined castle , where remains of them are to be seen built into the houses. Itri w^as once notorious for the robberies committed there. It was here that the robber-chief Marco Sciarra promised a safe conduct and protection to the poet Tasso ; and Fra Diavolo (whose real name was Michele Pezza) was also a native of Itri. He was at last captured by the French near Salerno and executed. Anecdotes are still related of this daring brigand, and Washington Irving’s sketch ‘The Inn of Terracina’, the foundation of Auber’s opera, has greatly contributed to maintain their interest. A new path leads from Itri, to the right, in 2V4 hrs. to the fishing- village of Sperlonga^ situated on a sandy promontory, and deriving its name from the grottoes (speluncae) in the neighbouring rocks. In one of these, as Tacitus informs us (Ann. iv. 59), Sejanus saved the life of Ti- berius, which was imperilled by a falling rock. On the way to the grotto we observe Roman ruins, and the grotto itself contains benches and stucco ornaments. From Itri the road descends for some distance on galleries, and finally between woods and vineyards, towards the coast, re- vealing an exquisite view of the bay of Gaeta, with its glittering villas and other edifices ; in the distance are Ischia and Procida ; still farther off rise the Monte S. Angelo (p. 143) and Vesuvius. Farther on, we perceive to the right, in the middle of a vine- yard, on a square base, a massive round tower, believed to be Ci- cero^ s Tomb. It was in this neighbourhood, not far from his For- mianum, that the proscribed orator, who sought to elude the pursuit of the triumvirs Octavian, Antony, and Lepidus, was murdered by the tribunes Herennius and Popilius Licnas, Tth Dec., B.C. 43, in the 64th year of his age. On a height above the road may be traced the foundations of a temple of Apollo, said to have been founded by Cicero. Numerous relics of ancient buildings are still extant on the whole bay, which, like the bay of Naples, was a fav- ourite resort of the Homan nobles, and was covered with the most sumptuous villas. The road now descends to Formia. Formia (* Hotel dei Fiori, on the coast; Alb. della Quercia^ recommended), the ancient Formiae, a town with 10,000 inhab., was called Mola di Gaeta under the former regime. The beauty ol its situation constitutes its sole attraction. The mountain-range on the N. side of the bay rises abruptly from the sea, the lower slopes being clothed with gardens of lemons, oranges, and pomegranates, and with vineyards and olive-plantations. One of the most delightful points is the so-called Villa of Cicero j or Villa Caposele, above the town, formerly a favourite to Naples. GAETA. 2. Route. 17 residence of the kings of Naples. It now belongs to Cav. Rubino (permission to visit it obtained by leaving a card at his palazzo opposite the prefecture; boy to act as guide 72^^.). At the entrance are ancient inscriptions and statues. The lower part of the garden contains considerable remains of an ancient villa, supposed to have belonged to Cicero, but evidently from its construction dating from the 1st or 2nd cent, of the Roman imperial era. Among the vaulted halls is one with eight columns and a semicircular apse, now converted into offices. The upper terrace commands an uninterrupted survey of the charming bay, Gaeta, Ischia, the promontories of the Bay of Naples, and the mountain range to the S. of the Liris, which separates the latter from the region of the Volturno. Excursion to Gaeta. This excursion has been shorn of its chief attraction by the modern fortifications, which everywhere interfere with the free view of the sea. — The railway (672 in 20 min. ; see p. 11) skirts the coast, passing numerous remains of villas, which the Romans were in the habit of building out into the sea as far as possible. Among them a spot is pointed out as the scene of the assassination of Cicero (see p. 16). Gaeta (Albergo Villa Gaeta; Italia; Caffe Nazionale)., the ancient Portus Caieta, with 19,000 inhab., is an important fortress, but in- significant as a commercial town. The promontory of Gaeta resem- bles the cape of Misenum in formation, presenting from a distance the appearance of a gigantic tumulus. Tradition has pointed it out as the tomb of Oaieta, the nurse of .dSneas. From this eminence projects a lower rock which bears the citadel with the Torre Angio^ vina and the town. The strength of the place was first put to the test during the bar- barian immigrations. Gaeta successfully resisted the attacks of the Germanic invaders, and with Amalfi and Naples constituted one of the last strong- holds of ancient culture. It afterwards became a free city, presided over by a doge, and carried on a considerable trade with the Levant. It bade defiance to the assaults of the Lombards and Saracens, and preserved its freedom down to the 12th cent., when with the rest of Southern Italy it was compelled to succumb to the Normans. The fortress was extended and strengthened at various periods by the Aragonese, by Charles V., and especially by the last Bourbon monarchs. In 1501 it surrendered to the French, in 1504 to the Spaniards under Gonsalvo da Cordova, in 1734 to the Spaniards again, and in 1798 to the French. In 1806 it was gallantly defended by the Prince of Hessen-Philippsthal, who, aided by the Eng- lish fleet, held out for nearly six months against a powerful French army under Massena. Pope Pius IX. when banished in Nov., 1848, sought an asylum here, and remained at Gaeta until his return to Rome in April, 1850. In Nov., 1860, Francis II. of Naples, the last of the Bourbon kings, sought refuge here, and his queen Mary, Duchess of Bavaria, took a prominent part in the defence of the fortress, but the town was at length compelled to capitulate by the Italian fleet on 23rd Feb., 1861. The king was conveyed to Rome by a French man-of-war. The Cattedrale di S. Erasmo has a remarkable campanile ; at the entrance are four ancient columns and relics of old sculptures. The modernised interior and the crypt are uninteresting. At the back of the high-altar (covered) is the banner presented by Pope Pius V, to Don John of Austria, the hero of Lepanto, representing Baedeker. Italy III. 12th Edition. 2 18 Route 2. SESSA AtIRUNCA. the Saviour with SS. Peter and Paul. — Opposite the principal portal of the church is a sculptured Gothic column resting on four lions. Near the Piazza is the modern Gothic church of S, Francesco, Among the antiquities of the town may he mentioned the remains of an amphitheatre and of a theatre, and also a column bearing the names of the twelve winds in Greek and Latin. The summit of the promontory is crowned by the conspicuous and imposing tomb erected for himself by Munalius Plancus , a contemporary of Augustus and founder of Lyons (d. after 22 B.C.). This consists of a huge circular structure of travertine blocks, re- sembling that of Csecilia Metella at Rome, 160 ft. high and as many in diameter. As it is enclosed by the new fortifications the tomb cannot now be more nearly inspected. The Railway from Foumia to Sparanise (p . 1 1) generally follows the direction of the highroad, at first not far from the sea. Farther on, we observe to the left a long series of arches of an ancient aque- duct. 7 M. Minturna, on the slope to the left, the ancient Min- turnae, with the remains of a theatre and an amphitheatre. 11 M. SS. Cosma e Damiano Castel forte. The line crosses the Garigliano, the Liris of the ancients, in the marshes of which Marius once sought to elude the pursuit of the hirelings of Sulla. On the right bank of the Garigliano, 27th Dec., 1503, Don Gonsalvo da Cordova fought the decisive battle with the French which placed Naples in his power. Piero de’ Medici , who, having been banished from Florence, had followed the French, endeavoured to escape to Gaeta in a boat with four field-pieces. The boat, however, sank, and all its occupants were drowned. Piero was buried at Monte Cassino (p. 5). The high- road crosses the river by a suspension-bridge constructed in 1832. The ancient Via Appia fartker on skirts the sea, and to the W. of Monte Massico.^ whose wines Horace and Virgil have immortalised, reaches Mondragone^ near the Sinuessa of Horace (destroyed by the Saracens in the lOth cent.), where to his great joy he was met on his journey (Sat. i. 5, 39) by his friends Plotius, Varius, and Virgil. Horace then crossed the Savo (Savone) by the Pons Campaniis and proceeded to Capua. In the vicinity, towards the Volturnus, was the Ager Falernus.^ where excellent wine, highly praised by the ancients, is still produced. 16 M. Cellole Fasani. — 20^/2 M. Sessa Auruncuy the ancient Suessa Aurunca., situated on a volcanic hill, with interesting ruins of a bridge, amphitheatre, etc. Other relics are preserved in the ancient cathedral and the churches of S. Benedetto and S. Giovanni. In the principal street are memorial stones with inscriptions in honour of Charles Y., above which is an old crucifix with a mosaic cross. — To the right rises Monte Massico (see above). 23 M. Cascano; 25^2 M. Carinola; 28 M. Maiorisi. The line then crosses the Savone, not far from the picturesque castle of Fran- colisi, and reaches — 32 M. (37 M. from Gaeta) Sparanise (see p. 7). Pozzuoli Y i n a Gallo MartffUi. I'oiquet (axlntmeto e t'araarrolo 0!.«fi-vatniii> PcHtHtiert Klfrante Ra/To D)',Simvrn> ^crolommi Due l\)rte Torricc/tio Qu^tru'- Qivx.ro rtiiH Pa^sardU CtOarelU 'jl I u voile L/irJietie/lo ^rhia. ^MojuU S XLii i.i Voiu^^ro""^ 'flornliuit^^' llinarolMPlla (Depa^aHilB) ViUa M 1 1 itj; NAPOLI i . 20.000 L-J.areo, f" 19 3. Naples. a. Arrival, Hotels, Pensions, Restaurants, Cafes, etc. Arrival, (a) Br Railway. The station {Stazione Centrale; PI. If, 3) is situated at the E. end of the town.' The principal hotels all send Omnibuses (IV'i fr.) to meet the trains. Cabs: with two horses (nearest the entrance) I fr. 40 c., each trunk 20c. •, with one horse (outside the railings, farther distant; seats for two persons only) 80 c., each trunk 20 c. ; no charge is made for smaller articles of luggage. The Facchini who take the luggage to the cab are paid, according to taritT: 10 c. for a travelling-bag or a hat- box, 20 c. for heavier articles, 40 c. for boxes weighing 2 0-400 lbs.; but a few soldi more are usually given (attempts at extortion should be re- sisted). As a long delay often takes place before the delivery of the lug- gage, it is perhaps the best plan to take a cab direct to the hotel and send someone for the luggage, though, of course, this incurs a little extra expense. The services of officious bystanders should be declined. The formalities of the municipal douane are soon terminated, the declaration of the traveller that his luggage contains no comestibles liable to duty being generally accepted. (b) By Steamboat. As soon as permission to disembark is granted, a small boat (1 fr. for each person, with luggage IV2 fr.) conveys the passengers to the Dogana near the Immacolatella (PI. G, 5), where luggage is examined. This done, one of the ‘facchini della dogana’ places the luggage on the fiacre or other conveyance (40 c. for each trunk, 10 c. for each small article). The offices of the steamboat-companies are close to the harbour. Police Office (Questura)^ Palazzo S. Giacomo (Municipio; PI. E, F, 6), on the side next the Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani. Comp. p. xiii. — Complaints about cabmen should be made at the Ufjicio Centrale del Corso Pubblico^ in the Municipio, 1st floor (p. 37). Hotels (comp, also Introd., p. xxii ; Climate and Health of Naples). The charges at the larger hotels towards the end of winter or in spring, when the influx of visitors is at its height, are rather high, but it must not be forgotten that only the first-class houses are fitted with lifts, electric lighting, and other conveniences, besides being thoroughly heated, a matter of importance in cold weather. In summer most of the larger houses are closed, generally till the middle of September. Prices are everywhere lower during this time. Most hotels receive guests en pension if a stay of several days is made; while on the other hand many of the under- mentioned pensions receive guests even for a single day. In the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the adjoining Rione Amedeo (PI. B, C, D, 7, 6), in a healthy situation and with a splendid view: *H6 tel Bristol (PI. a; D, 6), with good sanitary arrangements, R. 3-6, B. H/v, dej. 3V2, H. 5, L. 3/4, A. 1, pension 11-15 fr. ; ^Parker’s Hotel (formerly Tramontano; PI. b, C 6), R., L., & A. with bath 3-4 fr., B. IY2, dej. 3, D, 5 fr., pens, from end of Feb. to middle of May 10-15, in summer 8-lU, Oct. to Feb. 9-12 fr. ; adjoining, *H6t. Britanniqde (PI. q, C 6; Mrs. Macpherson)^ R., L., & A. from 31/2, B. IV2, dej. 21/2, D. 4, pens. 8-12 fr.; these two patronized by the English and Americans. — A little below the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, hut also with a fine view: “^Westend Hotel (PI. c; C, 6), R. from 3, L. 3/4, A. 1, B. l'/2, dej. 3Y'2, D. 5, pens. 10-14 fr. Lower Town, near the sea. In the Piazza Umberto: *Grand Hotel (PI. d; B, 7), in an open and healthy situation close to the sea, with a splendid view, R. from 4, L. 3/4, A. 1, B. H/z, dej. 372, H. 5, pens. 10-15 fr. — In the Riviera di Chiaja (PI. D, C, B, 7), skirting the Villa Nazionale, with a view of the Villa and the sea : No. 270, *Gran Bretagxa (PI. e ; I), 7), R., L. , & A. from 31/2, B. I72, dej. SVz, H. 5, pens. 10-15 fr. ; No. 127, * Hotel-Pension de la Riviera (PI. f; C, 7), pens. 8-lO^fr. — In the Via Partenope.^ facing the sea, with the Strada Chiatamone behind: 'Vittoria (PI. v; E, 7), R. from 3, B. I72, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 9-12 fr.; Hotel M^;tr()- poLE tfe DE LA Ville (PI. H E, 7; German manageress), R. , L. , & A. 372-4, B. 174, dej. 21/2, H. 372, pens. 8-9 fr. ; New Hotel Hassler (PI. k; E, 7), patronized by Germans, R. from 3, L. 72^ V-ii IV2, dej. with 2 * 20 Route 3, NAPLES. Restaurants. wine 3, D. with wine 41 / 2 , pens. 11-12, or without d^j. 9-10 fr. ; *H6 tel Royal ues Etrangers (PI. i; E, 7), R., L., - 41/2-5, pens. 8-12 fr.; ^Hot. du Vesuve (PI. g; E, 7 ), R. from 3, A. 1 , B. IV 2 , dej. 3, D. 5 fr. — In the Strada S. Lucia^ to the E. of the Pizzofalcone (PI. E, 7): Hotel de Russie (PI. n: F, 7), R. 2-3 fr., L. & A. 1, B. 11 / 4 , dej. 21 / 2 , D. 4, pens. 7-9 fr. The J'ollowing second-class hotels, near the centre of traffic, are chiefly visited by commercial men. At the top of the Strada Medina: Hotel de Geneve et Central (PI. c; F, 5), with lift, R. from 3, B. I 1 / 2 , dej. inch wine 21 / 2 - 372 , r>. incl. wine 41/2, L. & A. I1/2, pens. 10-12 fr. ; Nuova Roma, Strada Medina 13; Alb. Nazionale, 32 Via S. Giuseppe, divergipg to the left of the Strada Medina (PI. F, 5), R. 2-2i/2, H. 31/2 fr., unpretending; La Patria, Rettifilo S. Giuseppe 47 ; Alb. di Londra, Piazza del Municipio, cor- ner of the Strada Medina, R. 3-5, L. 3/4, A. 3/4^ B. I1/4, dej. 3, D. 41 / 2 , pens, from 9 fr., well spoken of; Hotel du Louvre, Via S. Brigida, near the Piazza del Municipio. — In the Largo della Caritd^ in the Toledo: Hotel DE l’TJnivers (gid Allegria)^ R. 21/2-3, L. 72 , A. 1/2, B. 1 fr. 20 c., dej. 2-272, D. 3 - 31/2 fr. (both incl. wine). — In the Toledo^ No. 292, Hotel Meridionals, R. 2-3 fr., unpretending. — Near the railway-station : Cavour, du Commerce, Piazza Ferrovia; Bella Napoli, Via Firenze 11 (PI. H, 3). Pensions. The following may all be recommended for a stay of from 3-4 days upwards (comp. p. xviii). — Chiatamone^ No. 23: Pens. d’Alle- MAGNE, 7-9 fr. — Strada Nardones: No. 60 (1st & 2nd floors), to the W. of Piazza S. Ferdinando and the Toledo, Pens. Tedesca, 6 fr. — Rampe Brancaccio (PI. D, 6; too steep for carriages), No. 20 (1st floor), Maison Bourbon, patronized by Germans, 6-7 fr. — Parco Margherita (PI. D, 6): No. 2, Pens, du Midi, from 8fr.; No. 3, Pens. Pinto-Storet; Pens. Poli, 6-7 fr. incl. wine, R. 2 fr. v- Gorso Principe Amedeo (PI. C, 6), No. 14, Hotel & Pension Bellevue, 7-9 fr. — Via Caracciolo (PI. B, C, 7), No. 6, Pens. Proti. pens. 7-3, passing travellers 10 fr., near the Grand Hotel. — Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. 87), Pens. Anglaise ( Villa Cappella ; Miss Baker).^ 6-8 fr. ; Pens. Sabelli, 6-8 fr. ; both patronized by the English. Hotels Garnis. For a stay of some duration (10 days and upwards) the traveller may prefer to take rooms at a private hotel, where he will be more independent than at a hotel or a pension. Charges vary with the season, culminating on unusual occasions, such as an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, which invariably attracts crowds of visitors. The rooms are generally large and fitted up for two persons : with one bed 172 - 4 , with two beds 3-6 fr. per day. The number of days for which the room is engaged should be expressly stated, otherwise the visitor may be required to leave unexpectedly, and a distinct bargain should be made as to charges (e. g. : A. 72 fr*, L. 30 c. per day). Breakfast may usually be obtained in the house, but better at a cafe. The best lodgings are in the new houses in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the Rione Principe Amedeo, with splendid view (50-60 fr. monthly, incl. attendance): e.g. in the Casa Amedeo, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 143; in S. Lucia, Nos. 28, 31, 92; in the Chiaja, Nos. 171, 260, 263, etc. Restaurants (rrai^one; comp. p. xix), very numerous. Caf 4-Restaurant Birreria Gamhrinus., Piazza S. Ferdinando, dej. (11-2 o'cl.), 2, D. (6-9 o’cl.), 4fr.; Caf4-Reitaur ant Star ace^ Galleria Umberto 1, dej. 272 , D. 4 fr. (both incl. wine). These two have excellent cuisine and good wines; also Munich beer on draught, 35-55 c. ; music in the evening. — Restaurant Al Vermouth di Torino^ Via Municipio, Galleria Umberto I.; Restaurant Eden.^ S. Lucia, at the tramway-terminus near the Castel delP Ovo, with garden, concerts in the evening. — The following are good establishments in the Italian style: ^Giardini di Torino^ Toledo 300. at the corner of the Vico Tre Re, moderate; Regina d" Italia^ Toledo 31a, entrance in the Vico S. Sepolcro, much frequented; Falcone., Strada Guantai Nuovi 9; Al Gampidoglio same street; Ristor. Milanese (Ere, Ferrari), Galleria Umberto I., Via Roma (Toledo) 210; Trattoria Militare., at the Pizzofalcone (p. 34), patronized by officers, D. incl. wine 1 fr. 70 c.; Trattoria di Londra., Strada S. Sebastiano Carriages. NAPLES. /L Route. - 1 72, first floor, unpretending; Ca,U Scofto-Joanno, in the Calleria Principe di Napoli (p. 41), luncheon 2-3, D. 4-5 tr. , convenient for visitors to the Museum, but not reconimended in cold weather. Several cheaper trattoric may also be found in this neighbourhood. The Trattorie di Campagna, by the Posilipo, close to the sea, are very popular in summer and command superb views, especially by moonlight. b'iglio di Pietro., La Sirena., close to the ruins of the Palazzo di Donn’ Anna (p. 87), M. from the W. end of the town; two Trattorie in the Palaz/o itself; about 1/4 beyond it is the Antica Trattoria dello Scoglio di Frisio ; all these are mediocre and dear, so that previous agreement as to charges is strongly recommended. Near the tramway-terminus are several smaller and somewhat cheaper houses : Tratt. della Stella di Posi- lipo., Bellavistay etc. ; all beautifully situated on the Posilipo. The Trattoria Pallino (p. 81), on the Posilipo (exquisite view), and the Trattoria Pastafina., at the W. extremity of the Corso Vitt. Emanuele, near the station of the line to Cumse (p. 91), are also much frequented. Cafes (comp. p. xx). The best cafes are at the S. end of the Toledo, near the Piazza del Plebiscite. Here are situated: ■•"Caf 4-Restaurant Gam- hrinus (see p. 20) ; farther on, Caf4-Restatirant Staracs (see p. 20). There are also several smaller cafes in the Toledo: No. 316, Gran Caff4 d’' Italia. — In the Villa Nazionale: Gaffh di Napoli., adjoining the Aquarium, concerts in the afternoon or evening (according to the season). — Coffee prepared in the Oriental style may be obtained at the Caff4 Turco., in the Piazza del Plebiscite, and the Caffe Turco., Strada S. Brigida. Wine. The wine of the environs is generally excellent, 50-80 c. per litre, such as Salerno, Gragnano, Ischia, Vino di Procida, del Monte di Procida, and di Posilipo. Marsala, Falerno, Capri, and Lacrima Christ! are sold by the bottle. Wine-stores: Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 136, 146; Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani 42 (good Vesuvio), etc. Good Neapolitan, Sicilian, and S. Italian wines may also be obtained at numerous small wine-stores, such as the Osteria Vincenzo Bifulco., Vico Conte di Mola 38 (PI. E, 6), and Luigi Trevisan., Via S. Giacomo 55, near the Toledo (‘vino caldo’, 25 c.). — Foreign wines sold by Luigi Caflisch., Toledo; Rouff., Scala., Strada S. Caterina a Chiaja, etc. Confectioners: *Caflisc1i., Toledo 253-255 and Strada S. Caterina a Chiaja 142; Van Bol the Museum (PI. K, F, 3; p. 55). 7 (Horse Cars). From the Keulusoiuo (PI. G,II, 2, 1) tliroiigli the Borgo S. Antonio and the Corso Garibaldi (PI. II, 3, 4), and past the Casiel del Carmine.^ then along the Harbour, and as in Ko. 1 to La Tokuetta (PI. B, 7; see below). 8 (Steam Tramway). From the Museum (PI. E, F, 3) by a rack-and-pinion line through the Via Salvator Rom (PI. E, 3) to the Piazza Salvator Rosa (PI. D, E, 4); then by ordinary steam-tramway along the whole Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza di Piedigrotta (PI. B, 7) and thence to La Torretta (PI. B, 7^ see above, No. 1 and 6 , and below). Trains (24 daily in each direction) about every 40 min., from 6.40 and 7 a.m., performing the journey in 50 min. (fare 15-30 c.). The train stops as required, but there are fixed stations at the Piazza Salvator Rosa, Vico Cariati (PI. E, 6 ), and Rione Amedeo. Cable Tramways ( Ferrovie F unicolari) to the top of the Vomero (PI. C, 5) from Rione Amedeo (PI. C, 65 with station beside the Hotel Bristol in the Corso Vitt. Eman. PI. D, 7) and from Monte Santo (PI. E, 4^ near the station of the Pozzuoli, Baia, and Cuma Railway). Tramways in the Environs. — 1 (Horse Cars). The line mentioned above (No. 2) to Portici and Torre del Greco. 2 (Horse Cars). In the same direction runs the line to S. Giovanni a Teduccio (p. 110), with a branch to S. Giorgio a Cremano. 3 (Horse Cars). From the Porta Capuana (beside the railway-station for Nola, PI. H, 3) to the Cam.po Santo (p. 49) and to Poggio Reale. 4 (Steam Tramway). From the Porta Capuana to the Tiro a Segno (PI. H, 1), and via Capodichino, S. Pietro a Patierno, Casoria, Afragola, and Cardito to Caivano (every I-IV 2 hr.). 5 (Steam Tramway). From the Porta Capuana (as in No. 3) to Capo- dichino, and via Secondigliano , Melito (branch to Giugliano) to Aversa (p. 203), every 2 hrs. 6 (Steam Tramway). From La Torretta (PI. B, 7 ; steam-tramway from the Museum, see above) through the Grotta di Posilipo to Pozzuoli (p. 93), every 1 1/2 hr. from 5.30 a.m., in 50 min, (fares 65, 50 c.). The cars are drawn from the Piazza S. Ferdinando (p. 22) by horses and are attached to the locomotive at La Torretta, so that passengers need not alight. To make sure of a seat it is advisable to take the car from the Piazza S. Ferdinando. Omnibuses. The chief starting-point is the Piazza S. Ferdinando (PI. E, 6 p. 36), whence among others start the omnibuses (every 5 min.) ascend- ing the Toledo to the Museum (PI. E,F, 3), and plying thence to Capodimonte (PI. E, 1); and those running by the Corso Principe Amedeo to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele Station (PL B, 6 ) of the line to Pozzuoli mentioned at р. 91 (20 c.). — The omnibuses plying from the Piazza del Municipio to the environs are not recommended to strangers. Boats. Row in the harbour 1-1 V 2 fr. for the first, 1 fr. for each ad- ditional hour. A previous agreement should be made. Boats to the mail- steamers, including luggage, 1 fr. ; to the Ischia, Sorrento, and Capri steamers 30c. — A large steamer, starting at the new wooden bridge in the Via Caracciolo, makes Circular Tours in the Gulf of Naples on Sun. evenings in summer (weather permitting). Fares from 6.30 till 8 , 1 fr. ^ from 9.30 till midnight, 2 fr. — The British steam-yacht '‘Yoronha'' (agents E. G. Vickers & Co., p. 26) starts at 9 a m. from the Via Caracciolo near the Aquarium, for Capri and Ischia (20 fr.) on Mon. - OC < QC QQ S Olivet Nazarene College 26 Route 3. NAPLES. Theatres. JIatteks. Best shops in the Toledo and Strada Chiaja. Marbles of Vitdlano. These beautiful coloured marbles, from the quarries which furnished the adornments of the grand staircase at Caserta (p. 9), may be seen at Piazza Cavour 54, near the Museum. Millinery. Gutteridge d; Co. , Toledo 192 and Salita Museo 92-94 • Goudstikker Fils., Toledo, Galleria Umberto I.; Shilton dt Co.., Strada S. Brigida; Magazzini Generali Italiani {Mele & Co.; see below) ^ AW Unione delle Fahbriche (Miccio &: Co.)., Piazza del Municipio. Music, see Pianos. Opticians. Heinemann, Toledo 25L Taylor, Toledo 227; Angelo Ochs, Toledo 314; Schnabel, Toledo 231; Talbot, Chiaja 215. Perfumers. Zempt , Via Calabritto a Chiaja 34, Galleria Principe di Napoli (p. 41); Aubry, Strada Chiaja 255 ; Barca, Toledo, Galleria Umberto I.; PicarelU, Vinti, Via Calabritto, Nos. 33 and 39, are both for ladies. Photographs. Giac. Brogi of Florence, Strada Chiatamone 19bis; Sommer, Largo Vittoria; Scala, S. Lucia 73; Amodio, Via Vittoria 17; all of these also sell bronzes, terracottas, etc.; Achille Mauri, Toledo 256; J)e Angelis, Galleria Principe di Napoli (p. 41); Furchheim (p. 25). Pianos (also for hire). G. Helzel, Strada di Chiaja 138; Scognamillo, Piazza dei Martiri 30, Palazzo Calabritto. — Music: Societd Musicale Napoletana, Strada di Chiaja 226; Cottrau, Chiaja 73; Ricordi, Galleria Umberto I. (p. 36). — Music Masters, very numerous; addresses obtained at the music-shops. Shoemakers. Baldelli, Strada di Chiaja 240. Ready-made shoes at M. Forte, Toledo 259, Via S. Carlo, Galleria Umberto I. ; Ferro , Piazza S. Ferdinando 49. Stationers. Richter (lithographer). Colonnade di S. Francesco di Paola 10-12 and Toledo 309 ; Lattes, Via S. Giuseppe 25 and Strada di Chiaja 81 ; Tipaldi, Str. Montoliveto 51 (artists’ requisites); Furchheim (p. 25). Tailors. Lennon & Murray (English), Str. Calabritto 2; Kieper, Via S. Carlo 18, near the Gall. Umberto I.; Plassenel, Galleria Umberto I. Ready-made clothes at Fratelli Bocconi , Toledo 343, and A. Mele & Co. (Magazzini Italiani), Strada S. Carlo, Piazza del Municipio, Tortoise Shell. Squadrilli, Piazza Vittoria (see p. 25); Mariano La- briola, Str. Chiatamone 23bis ; Fratelli Labriola, Rocco Morabito (see p. 25), both in the Via Calabritto. Umbrellas and Fans. Gilardini, Toledo 335. Vases, Majolica, Terracottas, and Statuettes (of Neapolitan fig- ures, very characteristic): Industria Geramica Napoletana, Via Chiaja 5; Ginori, No. 31 in the continuation of the Strada S. Brigida; Scala, S. Lucia 73; Mollica, Strada del Gigante 17. Also at several of the photograph-shops (see above). Watchmakers. Gutwenger, Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 66; Wyss, Str. S. Brigida 47; Lista, Str. S. Brigida 7; Huguenin & Co., Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani a Toledo 39. Wood Carvings from Sorrento: Gargiulo (p. 146), Via Calabritto 5. Goods Agents. E. G. Vickers & Co. (agent for Henry Gaze & Sons), Via Vittoria 7 and Via Piliero 31; Grimaldi, S. Brigida 15 and Riviera di Chiaja 288; at both railway and steamboat tickets and tickets for the ascent of Vesuvius from Pompeii are issued. e. Theatres, Street Scenes, Religious and National Festivals. Theatres (comp. p. xxi). The *Teatro S. Carlo (PI. F, 6; p. 36), one of the largest theatres in Europe, contains six tiers of boxes, 32 in each. Operas and ballet only. Parterre 3-6 fr. (fauteuil or poltrona 12 fr.) ; boxes, 1st tier 55 fr., 2nd tier 65 fr., 3rd 40 fr., and so on. — Teatro del Fondo (or Mercadante), in the Piazza del Municipio, operas and dramas. — Tea- tro Nuovo, in the Vico del Teatro Nuovo, a side-street of the Toledo. Comic opera and comedies in dialect. — Teatro Bellini, Strada Bellini (PL F, 4), entrance by the Via Conte di Ruvo. Dramas and operas. Par- terre 2 fr.; boxes 6, 10, 14 fr., etc. — Teatro Rossini^ Strada fuori Porta Medina. Comedies and operettas. — Teatro Sannazaro, Str. di Chiaja. Dramas and comedies; also pieces in dialect. Parterre 3 fr. — Teatro Poli- Street Scenes. NAPLES. r'L Route. 27 TKAMA (P1.F,7), SIrada Monte di Dio. Musical cntcrlairmicnts, operettas, circus. — Teatko Fiouentini (PI. E, F, 5), in the street of that name. Dramas. Parterre 1 fr. 20c., fauteuil 2 fr. 70 c., boxes, 1st tier 11 fr., 2nd tier 12 fr. , etc. — Teatko Fenice (PI. E, F, G), Piazza del Municipio; Teatko S. Caklino, Piazza del Porto , at tbe end of the Str. del Gastello ; Teatko Petkella, Str. Flavia Gioia. At these farces and dialect pieces. — The Salone Makghekita, Galleria Umberto I. , is a kind of cafe chantant or music-hall. The Gkan Cikco delle Varteta, Via Chiatamone and Via Vittoria, is similar. — The visitor may become acquainted at two Popular Theatres in the Strada Foria (PI. G, 2) with ‘Pulcinella’’, the ‘Punch and Judy’ of the Neapolitans, to whom the spectacle is an unfailing source of amusement. These performances are said to derive their origin from the ancient Oscan comedy of Atella. Those who have some knowledge of the Neapolitan dialect will find them not beneath their notice. Acerra (p. 11) is said to be the original home of Pulcinella. At Christmas and Easter curious religious plays are performed in these theatres. — The numerous Marionette Theatres, in the Strada Foria and on the Marinella, with their blood- thirsty plays of melodramatic chivalry, are also characteristic. Street Scenes. — The life of the people in Naples is carried on with greater freedom and more careless indifference to publicity than in any other town in Europe. From morning till night the streets resound with the cries of the vendors of edibles and other articles. Strangers especially are usually besieged by swarms of hawkers, pushing their wares, and all eager and able to take full advantage of the inexperience of their victims. The most medley throng is seen in the Toledo (p. 40), especially towards evening and after the lamps are lit. At fixed hours the importunate tribe of Giornalisti or newsvendors makes itself heard , and late in the evening appear the lanterns of the Trovatori., hunting for cigar-ends and similar unconsidered trifles. The narrow side-streets between the new Corso Re dTtalia (p. 38 ; PI. F, G, 5-7) and the harbour as far as the Piazza del Mercato (p. 39^ PI. H, 4), especially in the forenoon, also afford most characteristic studies of the humbler city life. Here itinerant cooks set up their stoves in the open air or under awnings and drive a brisk trade in fish, meat, or maccaroni, while other dealers tempt the crowd with fragments from the trattorie or trays of carefully assorted cigar-ends. Every Monday and Friday morning the streets in the neighbourhood of the Porta Nolana (PI. H, 4) break out in a curious and animated rag-fair, where all kinds of old clothes change hands. The vicinity of the Porta Capuana (PI. H, 3) is another centre of variegated life and bustle. This is a haunt of the Public Readers.^ who are also to be regularly seen about 4 p.m. at the Villa del Popolo (p. 38), opposite the Gastello del Garmine^ Quack Doctors extol their nostrums in interminable harangues, which they punctuate by drawing teeth ^ and not seldom Funeral Processions pass, escorted (as at Rome, Florence, etc.) by the fantastically disguised members of the brotherhood to which the deceased has belonged. The gorgeous coffins, however, which appear in the processions, are usually empty, the corpse having as a rule been previously conveyed to the cemetery. During the weeks before Ghristmas hundreds of so-called Zampognari perambulate the streets, playing their bag-pipes and flutes before the shrines of the Madonna, but all disappearing beforeGhristmas Day. — The Corso^ mentioned at p. 33, takes place in the afternoon in winter, and in the evening in sum- mer, in the Via Garacciolo, skirting the Villa Nazionale. — The numerous restaurants and eating-houses on the Posilipo (p. 85), FuorigroUa (p. 91), etc., are filled every fine Sunday afternoon with gay crowds, amusing themselves with songs and careless merriment. — The herds of goats which are driven into the town every morning and evening will also attract the stranger’s interest. The animals enter the houses and sometimes ascend even to the highest story to be milked. Gows are also driven through the streets at the same hours, and are milked by the herdspien at the doors of the houses. These animals do not add to the cleanliness of the city. Shoe-blacks (‘lustrini’ or ‘lustrascarpe’), whose knocking is intended to attract passers-by, 10 c. 28 Route 3. NAPLES. Festivals, Matches. A box of vestas {cerini^ 5 c.) is a desirable acquisition, as matches are seldom provided at the hotels. Vendors of Iced Water (acquaiuoli) in summer are usually provided with two large tubs filled with snow, in which the water is cooled, and a supply of lemons, etc. (2-10 c.). The excellent Serino water (p. 80), however, is to be preferred to these beverages, the water in which is of unknown origin. — There are also several mineral springs in the town, containing sulphur, iron, and carbonic acid gas ; the best known is at S. Lucia. The water has a slightly medicinal effect, but the smell is disagree- able (5 c. per glass). Newspapers (5 c. each). The most important are: the Gorriere di Napoli^ the Mattino,^ and the Trihuna (a Roman paper circulating exten- sively in Naples), published in the morning \ the Roma^ issued about 2 p. m.; and the evening-papers , the Pungolo and the Paese. All these are sold in the streets, in the Galleria Umberto I., etc. — The Naples Echo (Jour- nal des Etrangers),^ published weekly (Sun. ^ 10 c.) contains the visitors’ list and various information of use to strangers. — Foreign newspapers may be seen in the larger hotels and cafes and bought at Furchheim’s (p. 25). The Religious and National Festivals have lost much of their former significance, but the more important are still extremely interesting. The Festival oe the Vekgine di Pieuigrotta (p. 85; Sept. 7-8th), celebrated until 1859 with great magnificence in memory of the victory of Charles III. over the Austrians at Velletri in 1744, was formerly the greatest of all, but has now become chiefly a night-festival, celebrated, sometimes in an uproarious manner, in and around the Grotta di Posilipo (p. 85). — A more interesting sight is now presented on Whitmonday by the Return of the Pilgrims from the shrine of the. Madonna di Monte Vergine near Avellino (p. 173). The Neapolitan pilgrims (often 20,000 in number) return to the town via Nola in a gay procession, which vies with those of the Bacchanalians of old, and is welcomed by crowds which take up position about 5 p.m. in the streets skirting the harbour. On the following day the pilgrims proceed to celebrate the festival of the Madonna dell’ Arco, 6 M. from Naples, at the foot of Monte Somma. — On Maundy Thursday until late at night, and on Good Friday morning, the Toledo is thronged with ped- estrians taking part in a sort of ceremonial promenade, known as Lo Struscio, from the rustling of the silk garments. The shops are all bril- liantly dressed and lighted, and no carriages are allowed to enter the street. — On Ascension Day the festival of the Madonna of the baths of Scafati (p. 158) takes place near Pompeii. — On 15th Aug. is celebrated the festival of Capodimonte. — On the last Sunday in August the Fishermen’s Festival at S. Lucia (p. 34) presents many interesting scenes. — The so-called Ottobrate (excursions with gaily decorated horses and carriages) take place every Sun. and Thurs. in October. — The Horse Races, which take place on the Tuesday and Thursday after Easter, in the Campo di Marte, are practically another great popular festival, at which the Neapolitan nobility appear in handsome four-horse drags and coaches. — An enormous crowd assembles in the cemeteries on 2nd Nov. (All Souls’ Day). — Other festi- vities of a more strictly ecclesiastical character are celebrated at Christ- mas, Easter, on Ascension Day, on the festivals of Corpus Christi (Fete de I)ieu')^ St. Anthony, and above all on that of St. Januariu.s in May, Sep- tember, and December (see p. 51). The Good Friday procession at Sorrento (p. 145) and the procession on Corpus Christi Day at Torre del Greco (p. 110) are particularly worth seeing. The Festival of the Constitution (la Festa dello Statuto)^ of more recent origin, is celebrated throughout Italy on the first Sunday of June. In the forenoon military parade in the Largo Vittoria at the Villa Nazio- nale; in the evening illumination of public buildings. The King's Birth- day (March 14th) is also celebrated by a military parade at the Villa Nazionale. The drawing of the Tombola or Lotto, which takes place every Sat. at 4 p.m., in the Via Mezzocannone (PI. F, 4, 5; p. 46), always attracts a large concourse of spectators. Disposition of Time. NAPLES. 3. Route. 29 f. Duration of Stay and Disposition of Time. Guides. With respect to the duration of the visitor’s stay it is difficult to ofter a suggestion^ the taste and inclination of the individual must here more than almost anywhere else decide the question. Suffice it to ob- serve that within a period of ten days all the most interesting points may be visited, whilst many months may be delightfully spent in explor- ing the incomparable beauties of the environs. Where time is limited, it should be devoted almost exclusively to the latter, as the town con- tains few objects of interest, with the exception of the Villa Nazionale, the Aquarium, the Museum, the Triumphal Arch in the Castel Nuovo, the Porta Capuana , and one or two of the clmrches , besides a walk by the Harbour and the view from the belfry of S. Martino. Choice of season, see p. xxiii. The Chief Sights of the city may be seen hastily in 3-4 days. The mornings may be devoted to the churches, the middle of the day to the Museum, and the afternoons to walks or drives in the neighbourhood. The evening may then be spent at the Villa Nazionale or in the theatre. The following are specially worthy of mention: — *''Museo Nazionale (p. 55), daily 9-3 o’clock, in winter (Nov.-April) 10-4, admission 1 fr., Sundays 10-1 p.m. gratis. Closed on the official public holidays (p. xxi). Museo Filangieri (Pal. Cuomo*, p. 53), Tues. & Sat. 10.30-2 free; other days at the same hours, fee V 2 -I f**- Museum and Church of S. Martino (p. 82), with *View, 10-4, admission 1 fr.. Sun. 9-2, free. "Aquarium (p. 33), adm. daily 2 fr., in July and August 1 fr. ; season- tickets at the office. Catacombs (p. 79) daily, admission 1 fr. Palaces: Reale (p. 35), Capodimonte (p. 80). Churches: ‘'Cathedral, best seen about noon (p. 50); *Sta. Chiara (p. 44) ; "S. Domenico, 7-11 a. m. (p. 45)*, ‘^Monte Oliveto (p. 43); *L’Incoronata, early in the morning (p. 42); Cloisters of S. Severino (p. 47); S. Gio- vanni (p. 50); S. Maria del Carmine (p. 39); S. Lorenzo (p. 54); S. Paolo Maggiore (p. 53). Views: ‘*“=‘Camaldoli (p. 90), "‘Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. 85), "^Via Tasso (p. 84). — '"^S. Martino (p. 82). Most of the Excursions in the Environs (RR. 4-11) may be made from Naples in one day, but both time and money may often be econo- mised if the traveller combines several of them so as to avoid the ne- cessity of returning to Naples every evening. Those who intend to explore the surrounding scenery should therefore give tip their rooms at Naples, but leave behind them all superfluous luggage, in order that they may start on their tour unfettered. In making these excursions it is generally advantageous to travel as a member of a party of 3-4 per- sons, by whom carriage and boat fares, fees, and other expenses are shared. In this case, too, more favourable terms may be obtained at hotels (comp. p. xviii). Small Change is even more frequently required in the environs of Naples than in the city itself. Contributions are levied on the traveller on every possible occasion, whether for admission to a point of view, or for leave to cross a field, or for services rendered. An abundant supply of copper coins should therefore be procured at a money-changer’s (p. 24) before starting. A week or a fortnight may be very pleasantly spent as follows : — Pozzuoli.^ Baiae.^ Capo Miseno (R. 4) I-IV 2 day. Procida and Ischia (R. 5) IV 2 ,, Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius (R. 7), Herculaneum (p. 103) 1 ,, Pompeii (R. 8) V 2 -I Castellammare.^ Sorrento.^ Capri (R. 9) 2-3 ,, Cava., Paestum.^ Salerno., Amalfi (R. 10) 3-4 ,, Caserta and Capua (pp. 7-10) 1 ,, 30 -Route 3. NAPLES. tiistory. A visit to the islands, especially those of Procida and Ischia, should not be undertaken in winter unless the weather be calm and settled^ otherwise the traveller may he weather-bound for some days. The ascent of Vesuvius and a visit to Pompeii are now frequently accomplished in a single day; and some of the other excursions may also be done in less than the time estimated above. Commissionnaires charge 6 fr. a day, or for a single walk 1 fr. -, but travellers who intend making purchases had better dispense with their serv- ices. Some of the best guides are as a rule attached to the hotels. They organise also excursions in the environs, e. g, to Amalfi, Ravello, and Ppestum, in two days (50 fr. each person, including quarters for the night). Similar excursions are arranged by the well-known firms of Thos. Cook & Son (agent, M. F 80 rber, a Swiss; office in the Piazza dei Martiri 52, PI. D, E, 7; p. 39) and Henry Gaze )lo, on the other side of the Strada de’ Tribunali, to the left, stands the church of S. Lorenzo (PI. G, 4), begun in the Gothic style by Charles I. of Anjou in 1266, to commemorate his victory over King Manfred at Benevento (p. 205), and completed by Robert I. in 1324. The site is that of the ancient Basilica Augustalis. The portal and the choir only are of the Gothic period, the nave having been almost entirely rebuilt in the 16th century. The choir, with its ambulatory and garland of chapels in the northern style, was probably designed by a French architect. The belfry beside the church dates from 1487. *Interior. Tbe large picture over tbe cMef entrance, Jesus and St. Francis, is by Vincenzo Gorso. — Tbe Coronation of King Robert by St. Louis of Toulouse, with a predella (signed), in the 7th chapel to the right is by Simone di Martino of Siena. — St. Anthony of Padua, in the chapel of that saint in the K. transept, on a gold ground, and St. Francis as the founder of his Order (ascribed to Zingaro), in the chapel of St. Francis in the S. transept , both show traces of Flemish influence. The three statues of St. Francis, St. Lawrence, and St. Anthony, and the '-Reliefs on the high- altar are by Giovanni da Nola (1478). — In the ambulatory behind the high-altar , entering to the right, are the monuments of : (1) Catherine of Austria, first wife of Charles, Duke of Calabria (d. 1323), with a pyra- midal canopy and adorned with mosaics^ (2) Johanna di Durazzo, daughter of Charles of Durazzo , and her husband Robert of Artois, both of whom died of poison on the same day, 20th July, 1387 ^ below are three Virtues, above them two angels drawing aside the curtain. Then, in a closed space : (3) Mary, the young daughter of Charles of Durazzo, killed at Aversa in 1347. By the entrance of the church, on the right, are the tombstone of Ludovico Aldemoresco (d. 1380), by Baboccio (1414), and (in the pavement) that of the naturalist Giambattista della Porta (1550-1616). The monastery connected with the church, now used as barracks, was once the seat of the municipal authorities, a fact recalled by the coloured arms of the different Sedili, or quarters of the town, which are still above the entrance from the street. In 1343 Petrarch resided in this monastery ^ and Boccaccio, when in the church of S. Lorenzo, beheld the beautiful princess whose praises he has sung under the name of Fiammetta. In tbe direction of tbe Toledo, to tbe left, is situated S. Pietro a Maiella (PI. F, 4), in tbe Gothic style, erected by Giovanni Pi~ pino di Barletta^ tbe favourite of Charles II. (d. 1316; bis tomb is in tbe left transept), but afterwards altered. In tbe adjacent monastery is established tbe Conservatorium of Music (R. Collegia di Musica), founded in 1537, which has sent forth a number of cele- brated composers (e.g. Bellini), and was long presided over by Mer- cadante. A number of valuable MSS. of Paesiello, Jomelli, Pergo- lese, and other eminent masters are preserved here. Tbe adjoining Piazza di S. Maria di Costantinopoli is embellished with a Statue of Bellini. — Through tbe Porta Alba we reach tbe Piazza Dante on tbe Toledo (see p. 41). IV. Museum. NAPLES. .7. Houle. 55 IV. The Museum. In the upper part of the town, in the prolongation of the Toledo, at the point wliere a street leading to the Piazza favour diverges to the right (comp. p. 41 ; 11/4 M. from the Piazza del Ple- biscite ; omnibus and tramway thence, see pp. 22, 23, steam-tram- way from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, see p. 23), rises the — •■^^Museo Nazionale (PI. E, F, 3). It was erected in 1586 by the viceroy Duke of Ossuna as a cavalry-barrack, and in 1615 ceded by Count Lemos to the university, which was established there until 1780, when it was transferred to the Gesu Yecchio. Since 1790 it has been fitted up for the reception of the royal collection of antiquities and pictures, to which in 1816 Ferdinand I. gave the name of Museo Beale Borhonico. Here are united the collections belonging to the crown, the Farnese collection from Rome and Parma, those of the palaces of Portici and Capodimonte, and the excavated treas- ures of Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabise, and Cumse. These united collections now form one of the finest in the world; the Pompeian antiquities and objects of art in particular, as well as the bronzes from Herculaneum, are unrivalled, t The present director is Giulio de Petra, to whose predecessor Giuseppe Fiorelli is due the general arrangement of the museum as it now stands. Alterations are, however, still occasionally made, so that it is impossible to give here an absolutely accurate enumer- ation of the contents. No Catalogue has yet been published except for the coins, the weapons, and the inscriptions; but we may mention the Complete Handbook to the Naples Museum , which has been published by Dom. Monaco, the conservator of the museum, and E. Neville Rolfe (price 5 fr.; smaller edition 2^2 The Entrance is in the street leading from the Toledo to the Piazza Cavour, opposite the Galleria Principe di Napoli (p. 41). Admission, see p. 29. Sticks and umbrellas must be given up at the Garderohe, to the left in the gateway. Tickets are obtained on the righl. The officials, some of whom speak French, readily give information. Permission to copy or study, which is always accorded to artists and archaeologists (comp. p. xxi) is obtained at the Segreteria (entered by ^ the second door , on the third floor ; public entrance to the library on the second floor, p. 73), where a similar permission may be procured for Pompeii and Psestum, The following is a sketch of the general arrangements: — A. Ground Floor (comp. Plan, p. 70). Right Side: Ancient Frescoes (p. 56); beyond them, Inscriptions and several large .sculptures (p. 59); then the Canova Room; Egyptian Antiquities (p. 60). t The following letters indicate the origin of the different objects : B. Borgia collection, C. Capua, C. A. Amphitheatre of Capua, Cu. Cumae, F. Farnese collection, H. Herculaneum, L. Lucera, M. Minturnae, N. Naples, P. Pompeii, Pz. Pozzuoli, 8. Stabiae. 56 Routes. NAPLES. IV. Museum. Left Side : Ancient Marble Statues (p. 61); beyond them, the Large Bronzes (p. 66). B. Entresol. Right Side: Ancient Frescoes (p. 69); Ancient Terracottas (p. 69). Left Side: Cumaean Antiquities (p. 70); Renaissance Objects (p. 70); En- gravings (p. 70). C. Upper Floor (comp. Plan, p, 71). Right Side: Papyri (p. 70); Articles of Food from Pompeii (p. 71); Pictures (p. 71 ; 1st section). Immediately opposite : Library (p. 73). Left Side: Ancient Glass (p. 73j; Corns (p. 74); (p. 74; Neapolitan and foreign); Museum Santangelo (p. 76) and Fases (p. 76); Small Bronzes (p. 77); Gold and Silver Ornaments and Gems (p. 78). The following description begins with the right or E. side of each floor. A. Ground Floor. Leaving the entrance-gateway, we pass through a glass-door, where tickets are given up, into a large Vestibule with sev- eral ancient statues from the Farnese collection. At the end of the vestibule are the stairs ascending to the upper floors (pp. 70 et seq.). — The following are the most interesting statues in the vestibule : On the right, by the entrance, Alexander Severus ; left, a Melpomene from the theatre of Pompey at Rome, erroneously restored as Urania. By the staircase, right, Flora ; left. Genius of the city of Rome. At each of the two doors leading to the court are four figures with the toga; by the staircase two river-gods. The ^'^'Collection of Ancient Frescoes (Affreschi Pompeiani) from Herculaneum, Pompeii, StabitC, etc., which we first visit, occupies the right half of the groundfloor. These paintings are grouped in accordance with their subjects, and each group is furnished with a Roman numeral. Their state of preservation of course varies greatly (comp. Introd., pp. xxxix-xliii). I. Room (immediately to the right of the place where tickets are given up ; 1st door), a long corridor : Architectural mural decorations. Those on the left side, the farther end, and the farther part of the right wall are nearly all from the Temple of Isis at Pompeii. II. Room : Animals, fruit, still-life, attributes of gods, etc. — We now return through the 1st Room to the principal collection. The following rooms contain the mythological and genre re- presentations. Their enumeration is in the order denoted by the Roman numerals above, on the walls. III. Room : xv. *Girl gathering flowers. Two heads of Medusa, xvi-xviii. Sea-gods. In the corner, a *Nereid on a sea-panther. By the window- wall, Rape of Hylas by the nymphs ; Phryxus and Helle ; the Three Divisions of the Globe (figures). Two glazed tables exhibit a well-arranged collection of colours found at Pompeii, xx. Sacrifice to the Lares : in the centre the genius of the family sacrificing, while a servant brings the swine destined as the offering ; on the (iround Floor, E. NAPl.l-:8. /j. Route. 57 riglit and left, two Lares; two serpents on tlio altar (comp. p. 122). — l^cneatli, Lacclianalian scenes. — xxi, xxii. Sacriiice to Isis and scenes in the Egyptian style, from the Temple of Isis at Pompeii. — In the passage to the following room ; xxiv. Ulysses carrying off the Palladium from Troy ; under it, Scipio and the dying Sophonisha. — In the second passage: xxvi. '^Medea brooding over the murder of her children ; below, Medea with her children and their tutor. Opposite : xxvii. Meleager and Atalante. IV. Room : (1.) xxviii. ^Hercules supported by Priapus and Omphale. xxviii, xxix. Perseus releasing Andromeda, xxx. (be- low) Hercules, Dejanira, and the Centaur Nessus. xxxi. ^Hercules finding his infant son Telephus suckled by the hind ; the dignified figure on the rock represents Arcadia in the guise of a local deity (from Herculaneum). Wounded ^Eneas. — In the passage to the room of the mosaics : xxxii. The infant Hercules strangling the snakes sent by Juno, xxxiii. *Four important scenes from Hercula- neum : Triumphant actor, with his mask exhibited as a votive offer- ing; Achilles and Antilochus (or Patroclus); Concert; Attiring of a bride. Also genre-scenes from Pompeii (woman painting, etc.). — xxxiv. Admetus and Alcestis receiving the answer of the oracle. — In the passage : xxxv. Comedy scenes, xxxvi. Chastisement of Dirce (same subject as the Farnese Bull, p, 60). Phsedra and Hippolytus. Cimon nourished from the breast of his daughter Pero. — xxxvii. *Theseus after the slaughter of the Minotaur, xxxviii. Scenes from the forum of Pompeii : in the centre. School (chastisement of a pupil); Baker’s Shop; Small caricature of ^neas, Anchises, and Ascanius, represented with dogs’ heads ; pensive maiden. Several admirable busts of youthful subjects, two of which (to the left), representing a Pompeian baker and his wife, recur more than once, xxxix. ^Abduction of Briseis from the tent of Achilles. *Achilles being taught the lyre by Chiron. Ulysses unrecognised by Penelope. Achilles recognised at Scyros. — xl. Sacrifice of Iphigenia, who raises her hands supplicating assistance from Artemis, visible among the clouds. ^Orestes and Pylades in presence of Iphigenia at Tauris. — Adjacent to this room is the — V. Room. * Mosaics. In the centre, on the floor : Fettered lion amid Cupids and Bacchanalian figures , from the House of the Centaur at Pompeii (p. 137). — On the entrance-wall, by the pillar : Theseus with the slain Minotaur, three copies. Farther on, towards the window : in the centre , actor trained by a poet ; above, skull, and other symbols, found on a table in a triclinium at Pompeii ; on the left and right, comedy scenes (by Dioscurides of Samos, according to the inscription) ; a partridge ; two cocks after the fight. — Under the window' : Animals of Egypt (which served as a threshold in front of the mosaic of the Battle of Alexander). Above, two doves; lion and tiger; below the former. Abduction (injured). — Farther on, wall opposite the entrance : *Genius of 58 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. Autumn riding on a lion ; below, ^Garland with masks ; on the left, parrots ; on the right, a wild cat with a partridge, ducks, and fish, all excellent mosaics from the house of the Faun (p. 134J; in the niches, four mosaic-pillars from Pompeii (p. 139). — Farther on, a chained dog with the warning ‘Cave Canem.’ (from the threshold of the ‘House of the Tragic Poet’, p. 135). — Right wall : a large niche, prohahly intended for a fountain; above it, Phryxus and Helle ; on the left, the Graces, the marriage of Neptune and Amphitrite ; on the right, quarrel of Achilles and Agamemnon. — We now re- trace our steps, and follow the arrangement of the pictures, which is continued through the' passages from the 3rd Room to the 6th, which adjoins it on the other side. YI. Room : In the two passages, beginning next the window : xli-xliv. Rope-dancing Satyrs, *Hovering Centaurs, *Dancing Sa- tyrs and Bacchantes, etc. — Farther on : xlv. ^Representations of Cupid: 9180. ‘Cupids for sale !’. xlvi. Marriage of Zephyrus and Chloris(Lat. Flora), xlvii. The Graces, xlviii. Diana and Endymion (repeated several times) ; Diana with a bow, in a pensive attitude (pendant to the ‘Girl gathering flowers’ in Room III). — By the window to the left: xlix. Yenus and Mars, several representations. Yenus and Cupids, lii. Triumphal procession of Bacchus. Bacchus and Ariadne. — *liii. Dancers (Bacchantes). YII. Room : Iviii-lix. More ancient paintings from the tombs of Ruvo, Gnatia, Psestum, Capua : Iviii. Mercury as conductor of the dead. Funeral dance, lix. Samnite warriors in full armour, from Psestum (p. 166). Gorgon head with Messapian inscription. — lx. Narcissus in different attitudes. Ixi-lxiii and Ixv-lxvii. Land- scapes from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabise. Ixviii. *Yulcan showing Thetis the arms of Achilles (twice). Ixx. Jupiter crown- ed by Yictoria. Ixxi. lo’s arrival in Egypt (Egypt being re- presented by Isis). *Jupiter and Juno on Mount Ida. lo watched by Argus. Mercury giving the Syrinx to Argus. Ixxii. Five*Dmiy- ings on Marble (monochromatic) from Herculaneum : Battle of the Centaurs ; Old man drinking and a girl leaning against an ass ; La- tona with Niobe and other women of Cadmus playing at dice (pur- porting to be by Alexandres of Athens); Scene from a tragedy; two warriors in a chariot. Similar drawing from Pompeii : Fragment of a representation of the fate of Niobe and her children. To the above collection belongs a corridor (entered from the vestibule of the Galleria Lapidaria, or by the 3rd door in the great vestibule) containing * Ornamental Paintings (Affreschi Orna- mentali) from Pompeii and Herculaneum, being mural decorations, some of them with raised stucco designs and reliefs. They are executed with taste and precision and deserve careful inspection. In the semicircular space, Ixxxii. Yaluable collection of decorative masks. Pillar with paintings from the ‘Fullonica’ at Pompeii (p. 136), showing the different processes of the handicraft. The owl (iround Floor ^ E. NAPLES. 3, Houle. 59 is the symbol of Minerva, the tutelary goddess of fullers. Ixxxiv. ^Fragments of a wall from Herculaneum. The two large central glass-doors of the vestibule on the right and left lead into Courts, filled with reliefs, statues, and architectural frag- ments, many of which deserve the notice of connoisseurs. The two parallel long rooms in the E. wing, entered from the collection of ornamental paintings, contain the Gallery of In- scriptions (Galleria Lapidaria). The collection comprises upwards of 2000 Latin inscriptions, others in Oscan and other dialects, on stone and bronze tablets, and engraved (graffiti) and painted (dipinti) mural inscriptions from Pompeii. The collection is ar- ranged in accordance with the geographical situation of the different localities of discovery, and consists chiefly of epitaphs, but also includes laudatory and other inscriptions. — To the left of the passage from the front to the back (principal) room, is a statue of Tiberius, to the rights Atreus loith the Son of Thyestes (?, comp. Introd., p. xxxiv). The principal room contains among other antiquities, to the right, inscriptions in Oscan and other Italian dialects, of which No. 113, 398 (on a long slab in the first niche to the right) is that mentioned at p. 125 as found in the temple of Apollo at Pompeii. Among the bronze tables are, at the central pillars to the right, the celebrated Tables of Her aclea (p. 214; Nos. 2480, 2481), bearing on one side regulations as to temple-lands in the ancient Greek language, and on the other (inscribed at a later date) the Italian municipal laws promulgated by Csesar in B. C. 46. — At the window opposite the entrance and at the left end of the room, to the left of the Far- nese Bull, are two marble tables, with oval hollows serving as the Municipal Standards of Measurement for grain and vegetables; the former from Mintnrnse, the latter from the Forum at Pompeii (p. 126). Above these are more Latin inscriptions from Pompeii. — Several leaden pipes from aqueducts, etc., with inscriptions. At the ends of this room are placed the’Farnese Hercules and the Farnese Bull, two celebrated works of antiquity, formerly in the possession of the Farnese family. The so-called "^Farnese Hercules was found in 1540 in the ThermaB of Caracalla at Rome. The legs were at first wanting, but were restored by Della Porta; twenty years later the missing por- tions were discovered and were restored to the statue. The end of the nose, the left hand, and part of the left arm are new. The hero holds in his right hand the golden apples of the Hesperides, the sign of his successful accomplishment of the eleventh of the labours imposed on him by King' Eurystheus, and leans, faint and weary, on his club. The conception differs wholly from the triumphant victor of the early legend, and would alone stamp the work as one of a comparatively recent period. This conclusion is strengthened by the mannerism appar- ent in the over-strained effort to express great muscular strength. Ac- cording to the inscription , it is the work of the Athenian Glycon, and was probably executed under the early emperors, possibly on the model of a statue by Lysippus. 60 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. The celebrated group of the *'*Farnese Bull., a work of the Rho- dian sculptors Apollonius and Tauriscus , once in possession of Asinius Pollio, was also found in 1546 in the Thermae of Caracalla in a sadly mutilated condition. The restoration of the group was superintended by Michael Angelo. The two sons of Antiope, Am- phion and Zethus, avenge the wrongs of their mother by binding Dirce, who had treated her with the greatest cruelty for many years, to the horns of a wild bull. Antiope in the background exhorts them to forgiveness. The boldness and life of the group, originally hewn out of a single block of marble, is unrivalled in any other work of the same character (comp. Introd., pp. xxxii- xxxiv). The new parts are the head of the bull, the Antiope, with the exception of the feet, the upper parts of Dirce, and considerable portions of Amphion and Zethus. We return to the front room of inscriptions, at the end of which is a space with a staircase descending to the floor below. To the left opens the Canova Room, so called from three colossal statues by Canova., of Napoleon I. , his mother Lsetitia, and Ferdinand IV. It also contains three busts of Pope Paul III. Farnese (10,517. un- finished, and 10,514. attributed to Michael Angelo; 10,521. by Gugl. della Porta'), a St. Francis of Assisi and a statue of Modesty, by J. Sammartino, a Head of the Medusa, after Canova, and some antique busts of the Roman imperial epoch. We descend the staircase mentioned above to the Lower Floor. Room I. Casts from hieroglyphics (at the window, relief of asses’ heads). Room II contains antique inscriptions and terracotta water-spouts from Metapontum; also the Chinese Collections, including a magnificent vessel in carved ivory. Room III. Remains of a Greek temple of the 5th cent., found in Locri (Calabria), including the figures (from a pediment-group) of the twin Dioscuri, who, according to the legend, assisted the Locrians in the war against Crotona. The heroes are represented at the moment of their ar- rival from Sparta, the Triton supporting the horse symbolizing the mira- culous ride across the sea. Beyond Room IV, containing Christian In- scriptions, from the catacombs of Rome and Naples (built into the walls), we reach the — Egyptian Antiquities. — Room V. In the centre, Serapis, found in the vestibule of the Serapeum at Pozzuoli. Isis, an archaistic marble statuette from the temple of Isis at Pompeii, holding a sistrum and key of the Nile, with traces of gilding and painting. Coffin-lids. On the short wall, Horus with a dog’s head. The cabinets contain a valuable collection of small statuettes. — Room VI. In the centre: by the window, a granite tombstone with twenty-two figures in relief and hieroglyphics. Egyptian priest, a so-called ‘Pastophorus’, in black basalt. By the walls, six glass cabinets with various kinds of trinkets, etc. To the right of the entrance, the second immured tablet is the so-called ‘Table of Isis’, from the temple of Isis at Pompeii. By the window-wall, a papyrus with Greek writing, dating from the 2nd or 3rd cent., which with forty others was found at Memphis in a chest of sycamore wood, and contains names of the canal - labourers on the Nile. Opposite the entrance, a number of mummies of men, women, and children , some of them divested of their cerements and admirably preserved (the skull of a female mummy still retains the hair). Also the mummy of a crocodile. Marble bust of Ptolemy V. The left (W.) half of the groundfloor contains the valuable col- lection of marble sculptures and the bronzes. Grovnd floor, W. NAPLES. .'i. Route. 61 The ** Collection of Marble Sculptures occupies the groat corridor with three branches, and the rooms situated beyond the second branch. Tlie new arrangement in accordance with tlie local and historical position of the works is practically complete. It is best to begin with the N. corridor [third door on the left from the vestibule), the — Corridor of the Masterpieces (Portico dei Capolavori), which contains the linest works in the collection , affording a review of the development of the ancient plastic art from the 5th cent. B.C. down to the reign of Hadrian and his successors. This part of the collection in particular supplies the visitor with an admirable illustration of the history of ancient art, and includes moreover several works of the highest merit. On the right : — * Orestes and Etectra, a group which has given rise to much discussion, probably belonging to the revived archaic style introduced by Pasiteles towards the end of the republic (In- trod., p. xxxiv). — Pallas, archaistic style, from Herculaneum. — Artemis , an archaic statuette found at Pompeii, with traces of painting (gold on the rosettes of the headdress, red on the edges of the robe, the quiver-band, and the sandals). — Venus of Capua, found at Capua in the middle of the 18th century. It is uncertain bow tbis statue, wbicb greatly resembles tbe Venus of Milo in tbe Louvre, ought to be restored. Tbe arms, tbe nose, and part of tbe mantle are modern. On Corintbian coins Venus, tbe tutelary goddess of tbe city, is represented in a similar attitude, in tbe act of using a shield as a mirror, but it is possible that the Papuan statue bad a figure of Mars standing beside her, from whom she was taking his sword. The statue is held to be a work of tbe Roman period (as the representation of tbe pupil of tbe eye indicates), but was probably a copy of a Greek original. So-called Adonis, freely restored. — Athlete, from the palsestra of Pompeii (the left hand, now restored, was missing, as in other examples of the same statue) ; it is supposed to be a replica of the Doryphorus of Polycletus ; comp. Introd., p. xxxii. ^Horner, a beautiful bust, the finest of all the ideal repre- sentations of the poet. T must own that nothing has ever given me a higher idea of Grecian sculpture, than tbe fact that it has been able to conceive and represent these features. A blind poet and minstrel — nothing more — was given. And starting with tbis simple theme, the artist has made tbe aged brow and cheek instinct with supernatural mental effort and prophetic inspiration, combined with that perfect serenity which ever characterises the blind. Each stroke of the chisel is full of genius and marvellous vitality’. — Burckhardt. In the middle: — *Harmodius and Aristogeiton (head of Aristo- geiton ancient, but originally belonging to some other statue). After the expulsion of Hippias in 510 B.C., the Athenians erected in the Agora statues of Harmodius and Aristogeiton, the slayers of the tyrant Hipparchus. This group, the work of Antenor , was carried away by Xerxes in 480 and replaced in 478 by another executed by Critias and Nesioies. The original statues were afterwards restored to Athens by Alexander the Great or one of his successors, and the two groups stood side by side in the market-place, where they were seen by Pausanias the historian (2nd cent, of our era). The statues in the museum are a copy 62 Route S,. NAPLES. IV. Museum. of one or other of these groups, both of which were in bronze and prob- ai)ly alike in all essential details. — Comp. Introd., p. xxxi. Dead or Dying Amazon., 'Dead Persian, Dead Oiant (or Gaul and Wounded Gaul, of the Pergamenian school. King Attains I. of Pergamus, having in 239 B. C. gained a decisive victory over the Gauls who had invaded Mysia, erected on the Acropolis at Athens four groups of marble statues as a votive offering for his deliver- ance. These represented the triumph of civilisation and culture over brute force, as typified in the contests of the Gods and the Giants, the Athenians and the Amazons, the Athenians and Persians at Marathon, and lastly of Attains himself and the Celts. They have been described by Pausanias (see p. 61). The statues in this museum are undoubtedly parts of the original monument, and there are other figures from it at Rome and Venice. The time when they were brought to Italy is unknown, but cannot have been sooner than the capture of Athens by the Crusaders in 1205. (The exquisite reliefs discovered in 1878 at Pergamus and now at Berlin were erected in commemoration of the same victory, but probably in the reign of Eumenes I., 197-159 B.C.) Venus Callipygus, so called from that part of her body towards which she is looking, found in the imperial palaces at Rome ; the head, breast, right leg, right hand, and left arm are modern. — '^Satyr, carrying the child Bacchus on his shoulder. On the left, a bust of Antoninus Pius. — "^Hera (Farnese Juno), a grand head in the early style, austere in expression (Introd., p. xxx) ; it is a replica of a bronze original, in which the eyes were of some other material, and was intended to be joined to a statue. — Pugilist (from Sorrento). — Busts of Caracalla and Faustina. The adjacent room or recess to the right contains at the en- trance, to the right and left, Brutus and Pompey, two busts found in a house in Pompeii in 1869 ; a large basin in porphyry, torsi, dogs, leopards, boar sacrifices, and fragment of a gigantic figure resembling the Pergamenian sculptures at Berlin. Farther on, to the right in the principal room: Head of a Woman. — "^Aeschines , the Athenian orator (389-314 B. 0.) and champion of Philip of Macedon against Demosthenes , a statue found in the Villa of the Papyri at Herculaneum. Though the drapery is inferior to that of the admirable statue of Sophocles in the Lateran Collection at Rome, there is little doubt that this is a copy of an old Greek original. It was once erroneously called Aristides, but its resemblance to the herma of ^Eschines with his name attached at the Vatican proves its identity. Pallas, archaistic, from Velletri. — Juno. — Torso of Bacchus, a genuine Greek work. — Psyche of Capua, sadly mutilated; she was probably represented with her hands bound behind her, being tormented by Cupid, but the state in which the figure now is makes certainty on this point impossible. — * Torso of Venus, another genuine Greek work, probably not much more recent than the Venus of Cnidus by Praxiteles (4th cent. B.C.). In the middle : — Nereid, on a sea-monster (freely restored ; heads modern). — Sitting Portrait - Figure of a Roman lady (not Agrippina). Antinous. the favourite of Hadrian. Ground Floor ^ W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 63 The Corridor of Portrait Statues and P>usts, winch we next enter, is also called the Portico dei Balhi^ from the honorary statues of the family of that name, the most distinguished at Hercu- laneum, erected in the theatres by the Municipal Council. Near the ends of the corridor: 6211 (N. end), 6104 (S. end), ^Equestrian Statues of M. Nonius Batbus and his Son (of the same name), ‘prater and proconsul’, found in the Basilica of Hercula- neum. — The following description begins with the N. end. On the end-wall, several Dacians from the forum of Trajan at Rome; to the right and left: Genre-figures of children ; Sacrificing swine. — On the left (E.) wall. Portrait Statues from Herculaneum and Pom- peii, arranged in groups of five. In the first group: 6232. Statue of the Priestess Eumachia of Pompeii, erected in her honour by the fullers. In the second group: *6167. M, Nonius Balbus^ the father; *6168. Viciria Archais^ the wife of Balbus , a stately matron. Farther on (6242-6249), her son and four daughters, on the same pedestal (a fifth daughter of the group is in the Dresden Museum). — On the right (W.) wall, again beginning at the N. end, Roman Portrait-Busts, in two sections. In the first section, upper row : 6190. Agrippina the Younger., mother of Nero; 111,385. Brusus the Younger. Second section, lower row : 6185-87. Three examples of a so-called Seneca (perhaps Callimachus?) ; 6204. Sulla. The other busts are unknown. — The Hall of Flora, containing the Battle of Alexander, here opens to the right (see p. 65), at the entrance to which : Two barbarians as supporters, in pavonazzetto, the heads and hands in basalt ; in the entrance, to the left : 6414. Euripides, and 6415. Socrates, a herma with a Greek inscription ; to the right, 6412. Head of an athlete (Doryphoros), and 6413. Homer. — Opposite the entrance to the Flora room, in the middle of the corridor of the Balbi: 6236. Double herma of an unknown Greek and Roman, and 6239. Double herma of Herodotus and Thucydides. Between these, two sitting statuettes, one of them representing the poet Moschion. — Farther on, by the right wall of the corridor, are Greek Busts, in two sections. In the first section, above : 6148. Philetocrus, founder of the royal house of Pergamus ; 6156. Archidamus; 6158. Ptolemy SoterQiy, 6155, 6153. Two ad- mirable busts of unknown Greeks ; 6150. Pyrrhus i 6149. Demetrius Poliorcetes {i). Below: 6188. Vestal Virgin (?); 6154. An African (Juba?); 6159. Antisthenes; 6139. Periander; 6161, 6160, 6135. Euripides; Demosthenes. In the second section, above: 6146. Herodotus, 6130. Lysias, 6133. Sophocles, 6142. Poseidon, 6131. Carneades, 6129. Noemtes, 6128. Zeno, 6117. Aratus, the astronom- er; below: 6143. Solon. — At the S. end, in the middle, a hunter; several portrait-statues : 6233. Statue of Marcus Holconius Rufus, a Roman military tribune, and five times mayor of Pompeii. We now pass by the statue of the younger Balbus into the — Corridor of the Roman Emperors (Portico degli Imperatori), 64 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. the arrangement of which begins at the farther end, by the en- trance from the large vestibule . It contains statues and busts in chronological order, of a more or less ideal character. Most of the heads are modern plaster casts, attached to the ancient torsos in a very haphazard manner, so that the names affixed have little authority. No. 6038, a colosssal ''^Bust of Caesar., is genuine but greatly idealized; there is no authentic Augustus. 6041. Octavia., and 6044. Marcellas, nephew of Augustus, both from the Macellum at Pompeii. The two admirable busts next Marcellus are: 6045. Livia, and 6043. Tiberius. Opposite, 6055 and 109,516. Drusus, son of Tiberius. 6060. Claudius, not Galba. 6073. Not Trajan. The Seven Rooms beyond the Portico dei Balbi also have their contents arranged according to subjects. Among much that is mediocre there are a few works of great excellence. The arrangement begins with the gods, in the room opposite the entrance to the collection of bronzes (p. 66). I. Room: Jupiter, Juno, Apollo, Diana, Ceres. In the centre, 6281. Apollo, in a sitting posture, in porphyry, the head and hands in marble ; a work of the decline of art during the imperial period, when a taste prevailed for rare kinds of stone which were difficult to work. Right: 6278. Diana of Ephesus, in yellow alabaster, the head, hands, and feet in bronze ; her symbols indicate the fecundity of the goddess of nature. Left: 6262. Apollo, in basalt. Posterior wall: 6266. Jupiter, a bust from the temple of Pompeii (p. 126); 6267. Jupiter, colossal half-statue from Cumae; 6268. Juno; on the right, 6274. Bust of the ram-horned Jupiter Ammon. II. Room : Venus, Mars, Mercury, Minerva, Bacchus. To the right of the entrance, Head of Athene, after Cephisodotus, father of Praxiteles. Among the numerous Statues of Venus (eight of them from Pompeii, including 109,608, interesting from being painted, and 6294, a statue from the Temple of Apollo mentioned atp. 125) are several with portrait-heads. 6302. Mercury; to the left. Aphro- dite, after Alcamenes. In the centre, 6323. Mars, sitting. III. Room ; Satyrs, Ganymede, Cupid, Cybele, etc. — Left : several Satyrs; 6329. Pan teaching Daphnis the pipes. — 6351, 6355. Ganymede with the eagle ; 6352. Hermaphrodite, from the temple of Apollo at Pompeii; 6353. Winged Cupid, supposed to be a replica of an original by Praxiteles. In the centre : 6375. Cupid encircled by a dolphin, fountain-figure (freely restored); 6374. Atlas, with the globe. — By the wall: 6358. Paris ; 6360. jEscula- pius, from Rome. — On the short wall: Masks of river-gods, once used as water-spouts. 6365. Nymph at the bath. Three Priestesses of Isis, with drapery in black marble; 6369, 6371. Cybele, the mother of the gods. IV. Room: Statues of Muses from Herculaneum and Rome; several figures of Hercules. 6390. Head of Ajax; 6393. Main, from the temple of Apollo at Pompeii. In the centre, 6405. Amazon^ (hound I'loor, W. NAI'LKS. ;i. Route. 05 falling from her horse; 0407. Equestrian Figure., the opponent of the last ; 6406. Hercules and Ornphale, with each other’s attributes, a group in the' genre style. V. Hall of the Flora. By the principal wall : *6409. The Farnese Flora., found in the Baths of Garacalla at Rome, at the same time as the Hercules and the Bull (p. 60). It is probably a work of the early Roman empire, when the dubious taste for repro- ducing smaller Greek originals on a colossal scale had already manifested itself. The figure, however, is charming in spite of its huge proportions. As the head, arms, and feet were missing when the statue was found, and were restored by Guglielmo della Porta, and afterwards by Albaccini and Taglioni, it is not improbable that the figure once represented a Venus instead of a Flora. It has also been suggested that it may be a ‘Hora’, a ‘Dancing Muse’, or a ‘Heba’. — In the floor in front of it is the **Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander^ found in 1831 in the house of the Faun at Pompeii. This work, which is almost the only ancient historical composition in exist- ence, represents the battle at the moment when Alexander, whose helmet has fallen from his head, charges Darius with his cavalry, and transfixes the general of the Persians , whose wounded horse has fallen with him. The chariot of the Persian monarch is prepared for retreat, whilst in the foreground a Persian of rank, in order to ensure the more speedy escape of the king, who is struck with consternation at the sight of his expiring general, offers him his horse (Introd., p. xlii). — Also four statues restored as gladiators, including a replica of the Harmodius (No. 6408; comp. p. 61). VI. Room : Reliefs. In the centre, *6673. a beautiful Marble Vase with a relief : Mercury, followed by dancing Bacchanalian figures, gives the young Bacchus to a nymph to be brought up. According to the inscription, it is the work of a certain Salpion of Athens ; it was found at Formia , and was long used at the har- bour there as a post for fastening boat-ropes to (of which traces are still distinct), then as a font in the cathedral of Gaeta (comp. In- trod., p. xxxiv). The traditions of a more archaic style have been applied here with great adroitness. — To the left of the entrance, also on a pedestal, 6670. Puteal or well-head with seven gods : Jupiter, Mars, Apollo, ^Esculapius, Bacchus, Hercules, and Mer- cury. There are also three other puteals in the centre. — By the wall, to the left of the entrance, 6556. an early Attic Stele, of the middle of the 5th century. Then 6672, a beautiful Trapezophorus (pedestal of a table), with Centaur and Scylla. — By the walls : Sarcophagi, Fountain Masks, and numerous Oscilla, or reversible marble discs and masks, which used to be hung up by way of or- nament between the columns of peristyles. The glass-case to the right contains Fountain Figures, Hermal Heads, and other small figures. VII. Room : *Reliefs. Left : 6682. Aphrodite, seconded by Pe tho Baedekek. Italy HI. 12th Edition. 5 6G Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. (persuasion), endeavouring to induce Helen to follow Paris (Alexan- dros), who with Cupid stands before her, a Greek work; 6684. Bacchanal; 6688. Youth with three maidens, usually termed Apollo with the Graces (or Alcibiades with three hetaerse) ; 6693. Sarco- phagus : Bacchanalian procession. — On the pillar between the windows: 6704. Gladiator contests from Pompeii; 6705. Sarco- phagus with Prometheus and man as yet uninspired with life, surrounded by beneficent gods. — Third wall: 6715. Foot of a table (?), framed with Caryatides ; to the right, fragment of an Old Woman in a crouching attitude. Above: 6713. Banchetto dMcario., i.e. Dionysus, or the bearded Indian Bacchus, feasting with the Attic prince Icarius, the legendary founder of the Satyric drama (‘Drama Satyrikon’}; the train of the god includes the muse Melpomene, Silenus, and several satyrs. Above: Cupids in the circus, — 6724. Nymph defending herself against a satyr. 6725. The Graces, Euphrosyne, Aglaia, and Thalia, and four other figures, named Ismene, Kykais, Eranno, and Telonnesos. Below: 6726. Bacchanalian procession. *6727. Orpheus and Eurydice^ with Hermes., in the infernal regions (see Introd., p. xxxi). — Fourth wall: Sarcophagi. 6753, 6757, 6763. Three representations of Asiatic provinces. — In the centre : 6780. Honorary Pedestal from Poz- zuoli, with figures representing fourteen towns of Asia Minor which the Emp. Tiberius rebuilt after an earthquake, each figure being furnished with its name. In the middle, two large Cande- lahra., with herons, and two Bacchic * Vases. In the adjoining Passage are handsome ornamental works in marble: basins for fountains ; candelabra; feet of tables; tables. On the left wall. Door-frame from the building of Eumachia at Pompeii. — From this passage we again enter the Portico dei Balbi (see p. 63). At the S. end of the Portico dei Balbi is the entrance to the **Collection of Bronzes, most of which are from Herculaneum, and a few only from Pompeii. Their respective origins are distinguished by their different colours, due to different methods of treatment. The bronzes of Herculaneum are of a dark , black-green hue, while those of Pompeii are oxydised and of a light, bluish-green colour. This collection is unrivalled, and deserves careful and re- peated inspection. The number and magnitude of the works, the delicate treatment adapted to the material, and the skilful mastery of every kind of difficulty in casting and chiselling afford an ex- cellent insight into the high development of this branch of art in ancient times. I. Room : Animals. In the middle : 4904. Horse from Hercu- laneum, belonging to a quadriga , and reconstructed from minute fragments. — By the back -wall: 4887. Colossal Horse's Head., found at Naples, formerly in the Palazzo Santangelo. It belonged to a horse which is said to have stood in the vestibule of the temple of Ground Floor^ W. NAPLES. /i. Route. 67 Neptune (S. Geniiaro), and to liave been converted into a bell by the archbishop on account of the superstitious veneration with which it was regarded. Several animals once used as fountain - figures. — At the entrance, on the left, 5584. Marcellus,' on the right, 4896. So-called Sappho (eyes inserted). Opposite, at the entrance to the next room : to the right, 4895. Diana Shooting.! a half-figure from the Temple of Apollo at Pompeii; to the left, 111,063. Herma of L. Caecilius Jucundus., a Pompeian banker (see p. 71), erected by his freedman Felix. Farther on, by the same wall: 4892. Mercury., in a sitting posture. — Beside the other entrance, through which we pass, Roman portrait-bust (to the right). Opposite the entrance: 4990. Bust of a lady, perhaps a member of the family of the Emperor Claudius. II. Room : Statuettes. In the centre : 4995. Bacchus with a Satyr (eyes inserted). 6000. Boy with goose. — Behind the last : 111,701. Winged hoy with a dolphin. — In front : **5003. So-called Narcissus, perhaps a Pan listening to Echo, one of the most charming antique statues extant, both in conception and execution. 111,495. Satyr with a wineskin, a fountain-figure found at Pompeii in 1879. *5002. Dancing Faun, marking the time by snapping his fingers, found at Pompeii (p. 134). 5001. Silenus, used as the bearer of a vase (with handle very unsuitably made in imitation of the body of a serpent)- the air of exertion is admirably lifelike. — In the corners of the room : by the entrance, to the right, and by the opposite exit , two Greek Hermae : a so-called Amazon and a Head of a Doryphoros. The latter bears the name of the sculptor, Apollonius, son of Archias of Athens. — By the left entrance : Herma of Norhanus Sorex, an actor, from the temple of Isis at Pompeii. — The window- cabinet contains, on the top-shelf, a number of Boys with wine- skins, vessels, and masks, once used as fountain-figures. Silenus with a panther. On the lower shelf : 4997. Flying Victory, on a globe ; 4998. Venus arranging her hair, originally with a mirror in her left hand; 110,127. (in the middle of the shelf) Bust of Galha, in silver; 5009. Youthful Bacchus; two equestrian statuettes (4999. Amazon, 4996. Alexander the Great)' 4994. Angler, a fountain- figure. — In the cabinet to the right, as we stand with our backs to the window, are Fancy Figures, chiefly gladiators. Small Busts: Demosthenes, Epicurus, Zeno, Augustus. Hands with quaint em- blems, used as amulets to avert the danger of the ‘evil eye’. Above these, Lares (household gods), youths adorned with wreaths and bearing drinking-horns and vases, and Genii Familiares. — Oppo- site the window: Statuettes of Gods: Hercules, Victoria, Fortuna, Bacchus, Mercury, Minerva, Jupiter, etc. — Wall of the entrance : Etruscan Mirrors, the backs adorned with engraved scenes. III. Principal Room. In the centre: 5628. Drunken Faun. On each side (Nos. 5627, 5626), Two statues of Wrestlers about to engage. Beyond these, to the right: 5630. Apollo with the plectrum, from 68 Route 3. NAPLES. IV, Museum, Pompeii, a work of the archaistic school of Pasiteles, about the begin- ning of the Empire (p. xxxiv) ; to the left, 5629. Apollo Shooting^ from the temple of Apollo at Pompeii (a companion-piece to No. 4895, p. 67). On the other side of the Wrestlers, to the right : *5625. Mercury Reposing^ a beautiful picture of elastic youth at a moment of relaxation ; the wings attached to the feet and the remains of the caduceus in the hand identify the messenger of the gods. To the left : 5624. Sleeping Satyr, — Along the walls, a series of fine Greek *Portrait-Heads : 5588. Unknown. The following heads, as far as the opposite door, are believed to be portraits of the Ptole- mies : 5590. Seleucus Nicator; 5592. So-called Berenkc, admirably modelled (eyes and lips lined with silver when discovered) ; 5598. Female Head with hair restored (erroneously called Ptolemy Apion) ; 5600 (by the door), Ptolemy Soter (?). The intervening statues are of little merit: 5589. Livia; 5593. Claudius; 5595. Augustus; the others have not been identified. — Farther on, by the wall facing the entrance, to the right of the door: 5602. Heraclitus (?), the philosopher; above, 5601. Portrait of a Roman. 5603-5605. Three Dancing Women, from Herculaneum; 5607. So-called Archytas of Tarentum, with a curious headdress. On the other side of the door : 5608. Archaistic Head of Apollo. By the window-wall : 5610. Head of a Greek Athlete ; b^ii. Sacrificing Boy 5613. Statuette of Apollo ; 5614. Head of a Greek Athlete. — Entrance-wall: 5615. Statue of Augustus, sacrificing; *5616. So-called Head o/* Neneea (perhaps Callimachus). *5618. Head of Dionysus, probably the finest embodiment of the ideal of the bearded, or Indian Bacchus (comp, the relief, ‘Banchetto d’Icario’, p. 66), as already accepted in the 6th cent. B.C. ; this head was formerly called Plato, until the discovery of a genuine bust of that philosopher. Above it : 5617. Young Tiberius. 5619-21. T/iree Hancm^ Women from Herculaneum (see above). 5623. Democritus (?). Above, 5622. Lepidus (?). lY. Room: Weapons. In the centre, 5635. Equestrian Statue of Caligula, found at Pompeii (p. 136). Adjoining the door on the left : 5631. Roman Portrait Head ; opposite, 5632. Bust of a member of the Claudian imperial house (Tiberius?). — By the door on the right: 6^34:. Bust -of Scipio Africanus ; opposite, 6333. Idealistic Greek Head, — The glass cabinets contain a choice Collection of Weapons (detailed descriptions hung up at the entrance). Entrance- wall : Italian weapons ; among them a cock, a Samnite boundary figure from Pietrabbondante (Bovianum), and gladiators’ horns from Pompeii. — Left Wall : Helmets of gladiators and richly decorated armour from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Among these, 283. Hel- met with the Taking of Troy ; Shield with head of the Medusa. — Opposite the entrance : Greek armour, helmets, and weapons, found at Paestum, Ruvo, and Canosa. — Window-wall : Leaden project- iles for slings, etc. a^\"^^0I7:v^: oasnit JeogT*ph.. Anaxalt TOT. 'Vagner * l)ebei, tLe^«ig. Entresol. NAPLES. 3. Route. 69 B. Entresol. The Entresol (^Ital. Mezzanino) contains on the right two rooms with the latest frescoes from Pompeii, and the ancient terra- cottas ; on the left are the Cumaian collection , the Renaissance objects, and the Engravings. The most interesting of the Pompeian Frescoes are the follow- ing : Room I, on the entrance-wall, to the left, Europa and the bull ; Laocoon ; Tavern scene with inscriptions ; a curious cari- cature of an incident resembling the Judgment of Solomon. — Left Wall: Pyramus and Thisbe ; above, Ulysses and Circe; Bellerophon ; Iphigenia and Orestes in Tauris ; Jason before Pelias ; Ulysses escaping from Polyphemus ; above, Paris and Helen ; Phaedra; Medea. — Window-wall: Destruction of Niobe and her children. — Right Wall : Conflict between the Pompeians and Nucerines in the amphitheatre of Pompeii (see p. 140) ; Mars and Venus; Pygmies fighting with crocodiles and a hippopotamus; exhausted Bacchante. — Entrance-wall, to the right : Hercules and Nessus ; Pan and nymphs playing upon musical instruments. Above, Theseus abandoning Ariadne ; Cimon and Pera ; Hercules and Auge. In the centre, lamps and other clay articles, chiefly from Aretinum. Next the window : Egyptian glazed terracottas, includ- ing a group of Cimon of Pera. — Room II, to the left: Expiation scene; Achilles and Troilus (?); Judgment of Paris ; Leda; Ban- quet-scenes, with inscriptions; Trojan horse. Two half-lengths of youths with papyrus-rolls, on which the names Plato and Homer may be read ; Athene and Marsyas. — This room also contains a few paintings deposited here during the alterations mentioned at p. 73. 2, 3, 4. Lower German Master ^ Adoration of the Magi; 53. Id. (perhaps H. Memling?), Crucifixion; 6. Master of the Death of the Virgin (?), Adoration of the Magi, a triptych; 28. Jac. Korne- lissen of Amsterdam (not Diirer), Adoration of the Shepherds (1512 ; comp. p. 265); 29-31. Early Flemish Master^ Mary with the body of Christ , St. John and Mary Magdaleu , with the donors ; 33-35. Flemish Master (not Diirer), Nativity; no number, Nic. Frumenti, Two of the three kings from the East, with the features of King Robert of Naples and Duke Charles of Calabria. — The next room is also intended to contain frescoes from Pompeii. Adjoining are the rooms containing the Collection of Ancient Terracottas. — - 1. Room : Common earthenware articles for house- hold use, from Pompeii; fine statuette in a sitting posture of a bearded man with a tragic aspect, from Pompeii. In the passage to the third room, on the left, Artemis, right. Medusa (archaic). — II. Room. Several Etruscan sarcophagi with recumbent figures on the lids. Numerous lamps. In the cabinets, figures of small animals : horses, pigs, birds, also hands and other votive offerings, such as are still to be seen in Roman Catholic churches : infant in swaddling-clothes, legs, right half of a human figure . Opposite 70 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. ttie window, to tlie right, a colossal Juno ; left, Jupiter from the small temple of .^sculapius at Pompeii (p. 129). Opposite the door of egress, above three terracotta statues, the fragments of the celebrated Yolscian relief from Yelletri, in the ancient Italic style, with traces of colouring: warriors on horseback and in chariots. — III. Room, on the entrance- wall, to the right: Ante- flxae and gargoyles; to the left, reliefs. Under a glass-shade by the window: small figure of a woman, with painted garments. On the window-wall, to the left, drinking vessels; below, two archaic ante- flxse ; to the right, below, Etruscan cists; above, heads with figures upon them. Opposite the entrance: small statuettes and busts, many of great excellence. Opposite the window, to the left, lamps and candelabra; to the right, vessels ornamented in relief, heads and figures. Above the cases, vessels embellished with figures. The central story contains , on the left , the Cumsean Col- lection) which was purchased by the Prince of Carignano from the heirs of the Count of Syracuse and presented to the Museum. It consists chiefly of vases, terracottas, and bronzes found at CumsB (see p. 103). Room I. Bust of the prince ; by the window, an ele- gant jewel-casket in wood, with several gold ornaments. Room II. Tables with small objects in bronze, gold, and crystal ; an inter- esting head in wax from a Roman tomb. Among the vases at the window is a fine specimen of the later Attic style, under glass, representing a battle between Amazons and Greeks. The following room is devoted to the Collection of Renaissance Works (Raccolta degli Oggetti del Cinquecento). 10,527. Bust in bronze of Ferdinand of Aragon , by Ouido Mazzoni (?). An altar with reliefs in marble of the German school, representing the Pas- sion in seven sections. Model of the House of the Tragic Poet at Pompeii (p. 135). In the last room is the Collection of Engravings, consisting of 19,300 examples in 227 portfolios, which are exhibited by the custodian on application. Cork model of the Temple of Psestum. This room also contains copies of Pompeian frescoes on the walls, which deserve inspection in spite of their reduced scale, as they convey some idea of the original brilliancy of the frescoes, which usually fade a few years after their discovery. C. Upper Floor. From the top of the stairs we first turn to the left to the E. wing. To the right of the passage which we enter is the Library of the Papyri. This collection was discovered in a villa near Her- culaneum in 1752. The rolls were completely encrusted with carbonaceous matter, and it was only by slow degrees that the real value of the discovery was appreciated. About 3000 were discovered, of which 1800 only have been preserved. The thin layers of the bark (lihri) of the papyrus plant, each of the breadth of one column of writing , are pasted together and rolled Upper FIooTj E. NAPLES. 3. Route. 7 1 on rods, and the difficulties encountered in disengaging thenm may be imagined. The task was long attempted in vain , until the Padre Piaggi in the end of the 18th cent, invented an ingenious machine by which the difficulty was removed. Several of these machines may be seen at work in the second room. About six hundred of these libri have been by degrees unrolled , and whatever of their contents has escaped obliteration has been published in the Volumina Heracleensia. The library belonged to a follower of the Epicurean school, and the MSS. consist chiefly of treatises in Greek by the Epicurean Philodemus, a contemporary of Cicero, on nature, music, rhetoric, etc. There are also, however, considerable fragments of Epicurus himself, including a letter to a young girl. — Here are also preserved the triptychs (about 500) found in a carbonised box at Pompeii in June, 1875, containing receipts for money advanced by L. Csecilius Jucundus, a Pom- peian banker. The Sala DEI CoMESTiBiLi, to the left of the passage, contains several glass-cases with articles of food and objects of common use at Pompeii, such as bread, olives, figs, grain, cloth, network, coins, etc. — Pending the completion of the alterations mentioned at p. 73, it also accommodates part of the *First Section of the Picture Gallery, containing paintings of the Italian schools (the Neapolitan excepted), including fine Venetian works. Catalogues at the en- trance of each room. In the Sala dei Comestibili: 1. Salvator Rosa, Christ and the Doctors in the Temple; 6. Correggio Child Christ asleep; 37. Parmigianino, Lucretia; 7. Giov. Bellini, Transfiguration, an admir- able work; 53. School of Andrea del Sarto, Architect (Bramante?) showing a plan to a nobleman; 13. Ribera, St. Jerome listening to the Last Trumpet; *5. Titian, Danae, painted at Rome in 1545, a voluptuous work, showing the master — at sixty-eight — still triumphing over every difficulty of art and possessed of all his youthful vigour; 8. Roman School, Portrait; 10. Not by Correggio, Madonna and Child. *7. Correggio, Betrothal of St. Catharine with the Infant Christ. This work, painted in 1517-18, is known as HI piccolo Sposalizio’ in contra-distinction to the picture at the Louvre. The religious meaning of the legend has sunk entirely into the background ; the idea of the ecstatic vision of the virgin saint, in which the betrothal symbolises the renunciation of the present and consecration for eternity, is lost in a cheerful scene of natural life. 15. Guercino, Mary Magdalen. *8. Titian, Pope Paul III., painted in 1543, and in excellent preservation. ‘The pontiffs likeness is that of a strong man, gaunt and dry from age .... A forehead high and endless, a nose both long and slender, expanding to a flat drooping bulb with flabby nostrils overhanging the mouth, an eye peculiarly small and bleary, a large and thin-lipped mouth, display the character of Paul Farnese as that of a fox whose wariness could seldom be at fault. The height of his frame, its size and sinew, still give him an imposing air, to which Titian has added by drapery admirable in its account of the under forms, splendid in the contrasts of its reds in velvet chair and silken stole and rochet, and subtle in the delicacy of its lawn whites.. .. The quality of life and pulsation so often conveyed in Titian’s pictures is here in its highest development. . . . Both face and hands are models of execution, models of balance of light and shade and harmonious broken tones’. — ‘ TiUcin\ by Crowe & Cavalcaselle. 72 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. Ribera^ 14. St. Jerome, 12. St. Sebastian; 38. Mazzolini, God tlie Father with angels; 10. Marcello Venusti^ Copy of Michael An- gelo’s Last Judgment, before its disfigurement. *11. Titian^ Philip II., probably painted in 1552-53 from a sketch made at Augsburg in 1550 by order of Charles Y. The first painting from tliis sketch was sent in 1553 to England to assist Philip in his suit for the hand of Mary Tudor, returned after the marriage in 1554, and is now at Madrid^ the Naples picture is the second version, and is hardly inferior to the first. *2. Sebastiano del Piombo^ Holy Family, executed under the influence of Michael Angelo and Raphael (unfinished); 16. Rubens^ Monk. YI. Room. To the right: 1. Ann. Carracci., Pieta (copy); 2. Schidone^ St. Sebastian; 3. Jac. Bassano^ Raising of Lazarus ; 5. Giulio Romano., Holy Family, called Madonna del Gatto ; 6. Parmigianino., Madonna (‘a tempera’) ; *11. Perugino., Madonna; *16. Oiov. Bellini., (?more probably Antonello da Messina), Portrait; *17. Unknown Artist (nol Raphael), Portrait of the Cavaliere Tibal- deo (?); *3. Correggio, Madonna, named la Zingarella (gipsy, from the head-gear) or del Coniglio (rabbit), a charming idyllic com- position, painted about 1520 (much darkened); 12. Andrea del Sarto (?), Pope Clement YII. ; 18. Scipione da Gaeta, Portrait; *22. Raphael, Holy Family (Madonna col divino amore), of the master’s Roman period, probably executed by Giulio Romano. *19. Andrea del Sarto, Copy of Raphael’s portrait of Leo X., with Cardinals Giulio de’ Medici and Rossi (1524). This admirable copy was sent by Clement VII. to the Marchese Federigo Gonzaga of Mantua instead of the original he had promised (now in the Pitti at Florence), and afterwards came to Naples. Even Giulio Romano was deceived, till his attention was directed to a sign made on the copy by Andrea del Sarto to distinguish the two works. Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle miss in this work ‘the perfect keeping, ease, grandeur, modelling, and relief of form’, which characterise the original. *21. Raphael (f), Portrait of Cardinal Passerini; 15. Luini, Madonna; 27. G. A. Sogliani, Holy Family; 4. Van Dyck, Portrait; 9. Erroneously attributed to Correggio, Sketch of a Descent from the Cross; 35. Beccafumi, Descent from the Cross. — We now re- turn to the passage and enter the next — Room on the left (unnumbered on the Plan). 58. Tintoretto, Don John of Austria; 48. Lombard School, Landscape; 43. Guer- cino, St. Francis of Assisi ; 45, 49. Bourguignon ( C. Cortese), Battles; 36. Titian, Repentant Magdalen (late work) ; 41. Parmigianino, Portrait; 20. Lampanio, Madonna with SS. Jerome and Carlo Bor- romeo ; 40. Leandro Bassano, Portrait of a member of the Farnese family; 51. Jac. Bassano, Raising of Lazarus. At the end of the passage we reach the first room of the picture- gallery proper. I. Room (Roman School). 5. Claude, Quay at sunset (fine but damaged); 12. Unknown Artist (not School of Raphael), Female por- Upper Floor ^ E. NAPLES. 3. Route. 73 trait; 27. Sassoferrato, Adoration of the Shepherds; 28. School of Raphael^ Madonna delle Grazie; 47. Pannlni^ Charles HI. en- tering St. Peter’s at Rome; 51. R. Mengs, Ferdinand IV. at the age of twelve; 53. Pannini^ Charles HI. visiting I’enedict XIV. H. Room (Schools of Parma and Genoa). 2. Bernardo Strozzij Portrait of a Capuchin; 10. Parmigianino, Holy Family; 11. School of Corregrpio (?), Study of a head; 12. Parmigianino, Ma- donna and Child; 15, 20, 35, 37. Other examples of Parmipianmo. HI. Room (Schools of Lombardy and Parma). School of Leo- nardo, 11. John the Baptist, 15. Madonna with two donors of the picture; 16. Parmigianino, St. Clara; 17. Cesare cZa /Sesto, Adoration of the Magi, one of the master’s chief works (from Messina); *18. Leonardo's School (not Boltraffo'), The young Christ and John kiss- ing each other; 19. Same School, Madonna (perhaps an early copy of the Madonna delle Roccie ascribed to Leonardo). IV. Room (Venetian School). 1. Alvise Vivarini, Madonna with two saints (1485) ; 5. Bartol. Vivarini, Madonna enthroned with saints (1469) ; 7. Unknown Artist (not Giorgione), Portrait of a Prince Antonello of Salerno (?) ; 10, 13, 17, 25. Bern. Belotto (Canaletto), Architectural pieces; 11. Jac. Bassano , Venetian lady; *15. Sehastiano del Piomho, Pope Clement VII., sketch on slate; 19. After Titian, Pope, Paul HI. (Farnese), possibly an original, but much damaged; *20. Titian, Pope Paul III. with Cardinal Alessandro and Ottavio Farnese, full of life, although somewhat sketchily handled ; 23. Titian, Portrait of Alessandro Far- nese, damaged ; *32. Moretto, Christ scourged, a fine and carefully modelled little picture; 39. Garofalo, St. Sebastian; 40. School of Mantegna, Suffering of Christ; *46. Mantegna, St. Euphemia, ruined; 45, 47^ 51, 55, 59, 62. Bern. Belotto, Architectural pieces ; 56. Lor. Lotto, Madonna with St. Peter Martyr, an early work. — Rooms V and VI, adjoining, are at present being altered. Returning to the exit, we may obtain, to the left, in passing, a glimpse through the central staircase at the principal hall of the Library. Tlie collection embraces about 200,000 printed volumes and 4000 MSS. Catalogues for the use of visitors. Besides numerous ancient Italian works there are several valuable Greek and Latin MSS. (Greek , Lycophron’s Alexandra, Quintus Smyrnseus, date 1311, etc.^ Latin, Charisius, Ars gram- matica, the half-burned MS. of Festus, a mass-book with beautiful minia- tures of fruit and flowers, called La Flora, etc.). In the principal hall the custodian awakens a remarkably fine echo. Books are not lent out , but within the library three may be used at a time (9-3 o’clock). Readers enter from the street (not through the museum) by the last door in the building, and ascend by the staircase to the right. The W. half of the Upper Floor, reached from the Grand Stair- case by ascending to the right, contains the glass, coins, half of the pictures, vases, small bronzes, and precious relics. Immediately to the right of the corridor, which we now enter, is a room containing tlie Collection of Ancient Crystal (Vetri), 74 Route 3. NAPLES. IV, Museum. the most extensive of the kind in existence, showing the nu- meious ways in which it was used by the ancients. Several panes of glass from the Villa of Diomedes should be inspected ; also a beautifully-cut glass *Vase with white Cupids and foliage on a blue ground, discovered in 1837 in a tomb in the Street of the Jombs at Pompeii, when it was filled with ashes. The next door to the right leads to the Reserved Cabinet (Rac- colta Pornografica)^ to which men only are admitted ; it contains mural and other paintings not adapted for public exhibition, and numerous bronzes, some of them of considerable artistic merit. Opposite this collection , on the left side of the passage , is the *pollection of Coins (Medagliere), which is of almost unrivalled value and extent. The First Room contains the Greek , the Second Roman , the Third Roman and Byzantine, the Fourth and Fifth mediaeval and modern coins, and the Sixth the dies of the Neapolitan mint, together with a numis- matic library. Catalogues are placed over the glass-cases for the use of visitors. In the corners: Busts of distinguished numismatists. — The Museo Santangelo (p. 76) adjoins the 6th room, but is not accessible thence. We next proceed in a straight direction from the above-named passage to the comparatively uninteresting Second Section of the Picture Gallery, containing works of the Neapolitan, later Italian, and foreign schools. Room I (Bolognese School ; the Carracci and their pupils, Guido Reni^ Ouercino, etc.). 3. Ann, Carracci^ Madonna and Child with St. Francis, painted on Oriental agate; 9. Guido Reni^ Ulysses and Nausicaa; 15. Lionello Spada^ Cain and Abel; 38. Francesco Romanelli, Sibyl; 43. Ann. Carracci^ Caricature of Caravaggio as a savage with a parrot and a dwarf ; in the corner, Carracci himself ; 47. Guercino, Peter weeping ; 55. Ann. Carracci^ Rinaldo and Ar- mida; 69. M. Caravaggio^ Judith and Holophernes ; 71. Ann. Car- racci^ Landscape with St. Eustachius. Room II (Tuscan School). i.jLavinia Fontana^ Christ and the Samaritan woman; 5. Sodoma, Resurrection of Christ; 25. Gentile da FahrianOj Madonna and angels ; 27. Lor. di Credit Nativity ; 30. Dom. Ghirlandajo, Madonna and saints; 31. Matteo da Siena, Massacre of the Innocents (dated 1482); 32. Sandro Botticelli, Madonna enthroned; .(Filippino Lippi, Annunciation and two saints; Ang. Bronzino, 42. Young nobleman, 55. Female portrait; 48. Dom. Ghirlandajo, Madonna and John the Baptist. In the centre of the room is a large bronze tabernacle with the story of the Passion, executed by Jacopo Siciliano from a design said to have been made by Michael Angelo. Room III (Neapolitan School of the 14th, 15th, and 16th cent- uries). Pietro delDonzello, 1. Christ crucified between the two male- factors, 3. St. Martin; 7. Ant. Rimpacta of Bologna, Madonna and Child under a canopy, surrounded by eight saints; 21, 25, 32. Simone Papa, Crucifixion and Saints ; 23. Pietro and Ippolito del Upper Floor ^ W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 75 Donzello, Madonna and saints; 24. Andrea ( Sdbhatini) da Salerno , Miracles of St. Nicholas of Bari, sadly damaged; 34. Andrea da Salerno^ Adoration of the Magi, marked hy all the freshness and grace of the S. Italian school, hut also hy the characteristically slight attention paid hy it to correct handling. — Adjoining the third room are two rooms containing Byzantine and early Tuscan works, most of them hadly preserved and freely restored, and Neapolitan paintings of the 13th and 14th centuries. Room IV (Neapolitan School of the 16-18th centuries). 1. Do- menico Gargiulo^ surnamed Micco Spadaro, Insurrection of Masani- ello in the Piazza del Mercato at Naples in 1647 ; 5. Gian Filippo Criscuolo, Adoration of the Magi ; 22, 27, 28, 30. Works hy Luca Giordano ; 37. Massimo Stanzioni., Adoration of the Shepherds ; 56. Traversa j Girl with doves; 63. Pacecco di Rosa, Madonna delle Grazie ; 64. Jose Ribera.^ surnamed Spagnoletto., St. Bruno adoring the Holy Child, on copper; 66. Pietro Novelli, surnamed Monrealese, Judith and Holophernes ; 72. Dom. Gargiulo , The smoker; 75. Giordano., Pope Alexander II. consecrating the church of Monte Cassino (p. 5); 76. Giordano., Christ shown to the people (after Diirer). — The large walnut cabinet in the centre of the room, adorned with carved reliefs from the life of St. Augustine, dates from the 16th cent, and was formerly in the sacristy of the monastery of S. Agostino degli Scalzi. It contains mediaeval and Renaissance ivory carvings , engraved rock-crystals , miniatures, and the like, most of which were once in possession of the Farnese family ; also a small silver-gilt Diana on the stag, with clockwork, probably the toy of some juvenile prince. A cabinet by the wall of the exit, from the same church, contains majolicas from Urbino and elsewhere. By the window : the *Cassetta Farnese in gilded silver, executed by Giovanni Bernardi da Castelbolognese, a gold- smith of Bologna (d. 1555), with six large and beautifully cut stones representing Meleager and Atalanta , Procession of the In- dian Bacchus, Circus games. Battle of Amazons, Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithae, Battle of Salamis. — By the other window : an admirable bronze bust of Dante, said to have been modelled from his death-mask. Room V (German and Flemish Schools). 40. School of Lucas Cranach^ Christ and the adulteress ; 42. Amberger (?), Portrait ; *44. Jan van Eyck (?), St. Jerome extracting a thorn from the paw of a lion , one of the finest early-Flemish paintings in Italy ; 51. Unknown Artist (not Holbein')., A cardinal; 54. Pieter Brueghel the Elder ^ Parable of the seven blind men ; no number. Copy in pastels of the Toper by Velazquez; L. Giordano, Venus and Cupid asleep. Room VI (Netherlandish Schools). 1. Style of Rembrandt, Por- trait ; 12. Ascribed to Van Dyck, Portrait of a nobleman ; 17. Ascribed to Rembrandt, Portrait; . Frans Snyders , Hunting-scene; 36. 7 6 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. School of Van Dyck, Crucifixion; 61. Collection of 21 miniatures of the House of Farnese ; 73. Mich. Mierevelt, Portrait; 78. Ferd. Bol, Portrait; 83. Ascribed to Van Dyck, Portrait of a Princess Egmont; 89. Yilla Medici at Rome in 1615. — Entrance hence into the collection of bronzes, see p. 77. From the 5th Room of the paintings we enter a circular room, the first of the collection of vases (see below), and pass thence to the left into the Museo Santangelo, which occupies three rooms. This museum was formerly in the Pal. Santangelo, but was purchased by the city of Naples in 1865. For admission apply to the custodian. 1st Room ; Vases. In the cabinet in the centre, a vase with Baccha- nalian scene. In the middle of the cabinet, on the left, Bacchanalian feast with an armed dancing-woman. To the right, by the window, a "Cabinet with drinking-horns (rhyta). 2nd Room : Terracottas and Small Bronzes. On the left, in the corner, a vase from Nola, with the return of Hephaestus to Olympus. 3rd Room : Collection of Coins. On the second table in the middle of the room, an interesting selection of ‘aes grave'' and other Italian coins. Also several large vases: to the left of the entrance, a vase with Pelops and tEnomaus. In the centre, a vase with Orpheus in the infernal regions. Opposite the entrance, to the right, "Mercury and Spes, relief -mosaics from Metapontum, unique of their kind. Cock-fight. We now return to the ** Collection of Vases, which begins with the circular room mentioned above, and occupies seven rooms. It is very extensive and valuable, and is particularly rich in spe- cimens of the handsome vases of Lower Italy. The finest speci- mens are placed by themselves on short columns. The collection is arranged in chronological order after the second room, in which from the left of the entrance to the middle of the right wall are arranged the vases with black figures; then follow Greek vases with red figures, succeeded by vases of Italian origin. — As Greek vase-painting was adopted by the Etruscans and modified according to the national taste, so this branch of art was strongly influenced in Lower Italy, and especially in Apulia, by the peculiar character of its inhabitants. The vases here are of large and im- posing dimensions, and the artists, not satisfied with the decoration of painting alone, have frequently super-added reliefs to adorn the necks and handles. Their aim appears to have been to cover, if possible, the entire surface of the vase with the colours. The different series of representations, one above another, which they bear, are often without connection ; or the centre is occupied by an architectural design and surrounded irregularly with groups. The figures are generally of a somewhat effeminate mould, and great care appears to have been bestowed on the delineation of rich but scantily folded garments. The representations are for the most part borrowed from the ancient Greek tragedy, but in some cases scenes of a more Italian character are observed. As the ornaments, weapons, etc., of the deceased were deposited with his remains in the tomb, so also were these vases which had adorned Upper Floor ^ VV. NArLKS. /i. Route. 77 his home; in some cases, however, the nature of the subjects leads to tlie conclusion that they were manufactured for tliis express purpose. The period of their manufacture is believed to have been shortly after the reign of Alexander the Great. The floors of the rooms are paved with ancient, but freely re stored it/osmes. 1st Room. The vases in the 1st xind 2nd cabinets (to the left, count- ing from the entrance from the picture-gallery), and the three placed on columns in front of them are specimens of the earliest stage of this art. They are of a yellowish colour, ornamented with two rows of plants or animals of brownish or black colour, and are round or oval in form. The 3rd and 4th cabinets contain Etruscan and Calene (p. 7), the others Greek vases, some of them beautifully shaped, but nearly all black and unpainted. 2nd Room. Pavement from the house of Diomedes at Pompeii. Opposite the window : Two large vases, one with the Death of Archemorus, the other with the Funeral sacrifice of Patroclus. Between these, under a glass shade, Lecythus (vase for ointment) with reliefs of Marsyas and Apollo; farther to the right. Condemnation of Marsyas. In a cabinet opposite the window, Lecythi, remarkable for the painting on white ground; and prize vases of the Panathenseic festivals. 3rd Room. At the window : *Vase with lid, Bacchanalian sacrifice. Actors with masks; *Battle of Amazons; '"Destruction of Troy. Opposite the window: Large vase, from Ruvo, the largest vase yet discovered, with a Battle of the Amazons and Orpheus in Hades. 4th Room. At the window : Medea fleeing after the murder of her children. Lycurgus, blinded by Bacchus, slaying his wife. By the window, the celebrated large Vase of Darius from Canosa : Darius planning the conquest of Greece ; above is Hellas, at whose side Athene and Zeus are standing; beneath are the Persian provinces on which subsidies are levied for the war, with accompanying names. 5th Room. At the window : Orestes seeking refuge from the Furies at the statue of Artemis; Tereus on horseback pursuing Procne and Philo- mela; Perseus releasing Andromeda. In the cabinet opposite the window, to the left, Hercules carrying off the tripod. Farther on, to the right, Lycurgus killing his son; Rape of the golden fleece; Orestes and Electra mourning at the grave of Agamemnon. The 6th and 7th Rooms contain less important vases. In Room 7 also are two models of tombs, which illustrate the manner in which the vases were discovered. — The entrance hence to the small bronzes is closed. We therefore proceed to the principal entrance in the 6th room of the picture-gallery (p. 76). The collection of the ** Small Bronzes is the finest of its kind in existence and is arranged in a masterly fashion. It consists chiefly of household utensils, lamps, candelabra, tools of all kinds, musical and surgical instruments, weapons, etc., most of them found at Pompeii, and is admirably adapted to convey an idea of the life and habits of the ancient Italians. The use of most of the objects is too obvious to require explanation. 1st Room; The most valuable objects are in the centre, grouped around three large Money-Chests^ such as usually stood in tlie Atria of Pompeian houses. To the left of the corner: Dish-warmer^ in the form of a fortress. Farther to the right: large Divan or chair. Cooking Stove. TahleSupport, with Victoria bearing atrophy. Farther on, parallel with the window-wall and by the windows : Bisellia (seats of honour) decorated with heads of horses and swans, and a large shallow Dish with inlaid silver ornaments. Braziers. 7 8 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum. In a glass-case, a * Tripod for sacrifices, richly decorated, from the temple of Isis at Pompeii. Then iron Stocks from the gladiators’ barracks at Pompeii, near which three skeletons were found. Far- ther back, also under glass : Candelabrum from the Villa of Dio- medes, consisting of a square slab which bears a small Bacchus riding on a panther besides a small altar and a pilaster adorned with a mask and bucranium (skull of an ox) ; the lamps hang from four branches; those at present placed there are not the original. Then, Baths. Large Brazier from the Thermae at Pompeii (p. 135), ornamented with a cow’s head, the armorial bearings of the foun- der M. Nigidius Vacca. — The Cabinets along the wall are number- ed from right to left, beginning at the left entrance, i-xiv. Bronze Vessels, xv, xvi. Water-taps and Gargoyles, xvii. Implements of the Palaestra^ including numerous Scrapers (strigiles) for removing the oil and dust from the body after gymnastic exercise ; garniture of a ring, xviii-xx. Door-plates^ Locks, and Keys, with fine inlaid work, xxi-xxiii. Iron Utensils, xxiv-xxvii. Lamps, xxviii-xxxi. Mount- ings, Handles, Table Supports, etc. — Among the cabinets stand several Candelabra. 2nd Room : K Model of Pompeii, originally representing the ruins as they were in 1871 and added to since then (comp. Plan, p. 120; on a scale of 1 : 100). — Along the walls are ancient disk- shaped Bells, and numerous bronze vessels and candelabra. Cabin- ets xxxii-xliii, 1-lv, Iviii-lx. contain Utensils of various kinds and shapes, xliv, xlv. Ladles and Funnels; elaborate Cooking Apparatus, xlvi. Tripods; small Braziers; small Seats, xlvii-li. Scales and Weights. Ivi. Mirrors and Ink-holders ; below, objects in Bone and Ivory. Ivii. Bells, Harness, Ornaments, Buckles (fibulae). — In the glass-cases : Ixi. Compasses , Angling Hooks, Anchors, Steering Apparatus. Ixii. Musical Instruments, including the ‘sistrum’ or rattle used in the worship of Isis. Ixiii. Astragali, Dice, Tesserae (tickets of bone, ivory, etc., including some theatre- tickets). Ixiii b. Trinkets and Toilette Articles in bronze and ivory. Ixiv. Sieve. Ixv, Ixvi. Surgical Instruments. Ixvii, Ixviii. Ivory and Bone Carvings. — To the left , near the model of Pompeii : Leaden Vessels of cylindrical form. — At the back is a Triclinium, or three dining-sofas, each for three persons (the table was placed in the middle). The last room contains the ^Collection of Precious Relics { Og- getti Preziosi), antique cut gems, and gold and silver objects. By the Window, the celebrated *Tazza Farnese, a vessel of onyx with beautiful reliefs, the largest of its kind. On the out- side, a large Medusa’s head in relief; in the inside, a group of seven persons, referred by some to the occasion of an inundation of the Nile, by others to a festival in spring, instituted by Alexander at the foundation of Alexandria. Tables in the Centre. The first near the window contains Upper FlooVy W. NAPLES. ,‘i . Houle. 7 9 tlio Cameos, or stones cut in relief, many of wliicli are very inter- esting : in front of the case to the left, 16. Zeus in conflict with the Titans, by Anthemion ; 32. Head of Medusa; 44. A fine head of Augustus ; 65. Part of the group of the Farnese hull, said to have been used as a model at its restoration ; below it, 1857. Head of a Vestal. — Adjacent diie the Intagli, or stones on which the designs recede (so placed that the designs are seen through the stone): 209. Ajax and Cassandra; 213. Apollo and Marsyas; 392. Bacchante. The table in the middle contains cut gems of the mediaeval and Renaissance epochs. The Cabinets by the entrance-wall and the window-wall and at the front part of the left wall contain well-executed Objects in Silver: Vases, goblets, tablets, spoons, buckles; also objects in ivory, medallion reliefs, etc. The most noteworthy objects are the following: Six fine large vases; Six goblets with foliage; Small sun-dial; Vase in the shape of a mortar, with the apotheosis of Homer; Three tripods; Rings from Greek tombs at Armento in the Basilicata; Silver Plate from the house of Meleager at Pompeii, including two handsome goblets with centaurs. The Objects in Gold begin at the farther end , to the right, with the Greek ornaments, which include a diadem from Venosa, and ornaments found in a tomb at Taranto ; large gold lamp from Pompeii, admirably executed and well preserved. Then , opposite the entrance, ornaments from Herculaneum and Pompeii, some set with pearls and precious stones : earrings and finger-rings, including a' gold ring with a portrait and the artist’s name Anaxilas ; neck- laces; twobullse; armlets in the form of serpents. Farther on, ornaments in glass and amber. V. The Higher Quarters : Capodimonte, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Castel S. Elmo, S. Martino. The continuation of the Toledo beyond the Museum is formed by the Stbada S. Teresa degli Scalzi (PL E, 3, 2), which gradually ascends. From the beginning of this street, opposite the N. W. corner of the Museum, the Strada Salvator Rosa (p. 81) diverges to the left. We follow the Strada S. Teresa, and in about 10 min. cross the Ponte della Sanith, a viaduct constructed in 1809 across the quarter della Sanita, which lies below. Descending to the left immediately beyond the bridge, and from the lower end of the street entering the winding Strada S. Gennaro de' Poveri to the right, we soon reach the large hospice or poor-house of that name. At the back of the building is the church of S. Gennaro (St. Januarius) founded in the 8th cent, on the site of a chapel where St. Januarius was interred, but now completely modernized. The passage leading to the inner court is embellished with frescoes from the history of the saint by Andrea da Salerno (?), unfortunately in bad preservation. At the back of the church is the entrance to the extensive Catacombs (PI. D, 1) of Naples, admission to which is obtained by applying to the porter of the hospice (1 fr. for each person, and trifling fee to the attendant). 80 Route 3. NAPLES. V. The Higher The Catacombs of S, Gennaro consist of four main galleries, of which, however, two only are now connected by staircases and accessible to visitors, together with a long series of lateral passages and burial- chambers (cubicula). Along the walls are excavated niches of three dif- ferent forms, ranged in rows one above another. A few of the chambers lie below the level of the galleries. The oldest part of the catacombs dates from the first century of our era. In point of architecture they far surpass the Roman, though inferior in every other respect. The two large ante-chambers wereused for the religious services customary at an interment. Information as to the history and decorations of these early Chris- tian burial-places will be found in Baedeker's Central Italy. The inscrip- tions found here have been placed in the Museum. Among the paintings may be mentioned the pleasing decorations of the two ante -rooms, which recall the Pompeian style, a figure of the Good Shepherd in the first gallery, the portraits on the tomb of Theotecnus (beginning of the 4th cent.) in the second gallery, and a figure of Christ of the 5th or 6th cent, (but frequently retouched) in the so-called Basilica di S. Gen- naro. The bones which fill many of the chambers and corridors are generally those of victims of the plagues which ravaged Naples in the 16th century. The Priapus column with the Hebrew inscription is a medieeval hoax. There is another (but unimportant) series of catacombs, of the 4th and 5th cent., beneath the church of S. Maria della Sanita, below the bridge of that name. The SjRADA Nuova di Capodimonte, as the street ascending beyond the Ponte della Sanita is called, leads in a few minutes to a circular space called the Tondo di Capodimonte (PI. E, 1 ; ordin- ary cah-fares thus far). The road now describes a long curve to the left and then divides, the N. branch leading to Secondigliano, and the S. branch to the entrance of the park of Capodimonte. Walkers ascend the steps, and at the top follow the road to the right. From the Tondo di Capodimonte to the palace is a walk of 7 minutes. — A short distance before the park-gates is the large main reservoir of the new waterworks {^Acqua di Serino ; PI. F, 1 ; p. 32), with five basins hewn in the rock, and a capacity of 80,000 cubic metres. Permission to inspect the works is obtained at the office of the Naples Waterworks Co., Strada Chiatamone 5 bis. The royal Palazzo di Capodimonte (PI. E, F, 1 ; daily 10-4, with permesso, see p. 35; guide not necessary for the garden), situated above the town to the N. on the eminence of that name, was begun in 1738 by Charles III., but not completed till 1834- 39 in the reign of Ferdinand II. The edifice was designed by Medrano, the architect of the Teatro S. Carlo. The "^Cardens are partly laid out in the English style. Splendid views are enjoyed from the large evergreen oak and other points. Permessi must once more be shown at an enclosed part called the Bosco (fee 25- 50 c.; inaccessible in April and May when the pheasants are sitting). One-horse carriages are not admitted to the park. The palace contains tbe royal Mdseo di Capodimonte (fee 1 fr.) , a somewhat extensive, but not very valuable collection of pictures, chiefly by modern Neapolitan masters, and of modern sculptures, distributed throughout the different apartments. The names of the artists are attach- ed to the frames. The following are worthy of mention : Hackert, Wild -boar hunt in the Bosco di Persano ; Chase of ^wild fowl on the Lago Fusaro, by the same; Lemasle , Marriage of the Duchesse ^de Quarters. NAPLES. .'i. Route. 81 licrry; Camuccini^ Death of Ca'sai*; Celentano., lienvenuto Cellini at the Caste! S. Angelo; Hayez., Ulysses and Alcinous; a table with ancient mosaic from Pompeii; Marinclli^ Cleopatra at her toilet; Virginia Lebrun^ Porti*aits of the Duchess of Parma and Blaria Theresa; Angelica Kavf- Ferdinand I. and his consort with their children; Podesla^ Or- pheus; De Angelis ^ Death of Pheedra; Guerra, Ossian ; Postiglione.^ Andro- cles ; Bergi.^ Kpaminondas at Mantinea ; Carelli^ Capture of the Porta Pia at Rome, Sept. 20th, 1870; Vanvitelli.^ View of Piedigrotta. — The palace also contains a collection of porcelain from the former manufactory of Capodimonte, including some exquisitely delicate and transparent spe- cimens of ‘pdie tendre, coloured decorations in relief, and (later) imitations of the antique. The manufactory M^as founded in 1743 by Charles III., improved in 1771 by Ferdinand IV. , and suppressed by the French in 1806. The valuable collection of armour (Armerla) contains the ancient accoutrements of Kings Roger and Ferdinand I., of Alexander Farnese, and of Victor Amadeus of Savoy; the sword presented by Ferdinand 1. to the gallant Scanderbeg (d. 1467) ; also an ornamental cradle presented by the city of Naples to the present queen Margaret in 1869. Near Capodimonte are the villas Meuricoffre (PI. E, 1; generally open on presentation of the visitor’s card), Euffo, Avellij and For- quetj commanding line views in all directions. — To the W., op- posite Capodimonte, stands the Villa Gallo (PI. D, 1), founded in 1809 by the Duca di Gallo. Following the Salita di Capodimonte , opposite the entrance to the park of Capodimonte , and after a few minutes turning to the left, we reach the Observatory (Osservatorio Reale, PI. F, 1), occu- pying the summit of the hill. It is popularly called La Specola, or, after the villa of a Spanish marquis which once stood here, Mira- dois. The observatory was founded in 1812, and enlarged in 1820 from plans by the celebrated Piazzi (d. 1826), under whom it attain- ed a European reputation. The present director. Comm, de GaspariSj has distinguished himself by the discovery of several planetoids. — On the way to the observatory a path descends in steps past the church de^ Miracoli to the Strada Foria (see p. 41). Opposite the N.W. corner of the Museum, as mentioned at p. 79, the Strada Salvator Rosa (PI. D, E, 3, 4) ascends the heights of S. Elmo and the Posilipo. Donkeys may be hired at the foot of the hill, and also farther up : to S. Martino I-IY 2 Ir. (as quick as a carriage, or quicker). The tramway (No. 7, p. 23) as- cends at this point by the rack-and-pinion system. In 10 minutes’ walk from the Museum we reach the small Piazza Salvator Rosa, where the Strada Salvator Rosa turns to the right towards AreueZZa, birthplace of Salvator Rosa, the painter. In a straight direction begins here the *Corso Vittorio Emanuele (PI. D, 4; E, 5; B, C, D, E, 6; B, 7 ; steam-tramway, see p. 23), which is carried by means of windings and several viaducts round the hills of S. Elmo and the Posilipo. It then skirts the slopes for some distance, and at length gradually descends to the Piazza di Piedigrotta (p. 85) and the Mergellina (p. 86), commanding ad- mirable views of the town, the bay, and Mt. Vesuvius. The road Bardekkk. Italy III. 12th Edition. 0 82 Route 3. NAPLES. V. The Higher was begun by the P>ourbons for military purposes, but was not com- pleted till 1875. The distance from the Piazza Salvator Rosa to S. Maria di Piedigrotta is upwards of 2^2 M. From the Corso a number of lanes descend, some of them by means of steps, to the lower part of the city. Those diverging from the first third of the road lead to the Toledo, those from the last third descend to the Chiaja. S. Elmo and S. Martino are reached from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele by means of two somewhat steep Bridle Paths, ascend- ing in places by shallow steps. One of these, the Pedimentina di 8. Martino (PI. E, D, 5), begins about 1/2 M. from the Piazza Sal- vator Rosa, beyond the viaduct and the angle made by the street, beside the house No. 350 , and reaches the entrance of the Castel In 1/4 hr. The other, the Salita del Petraio (PI. D, 6, 5), begins about 10 min. farther on, between the houses Nos. 227 and 226. Donkeys for hire at both. — A much longer route is by the carriage- road, following the Strada Salvator Rosa to the small chapel of 8. Maria Costantinopolitana (PI. C, 4), and diverging there to the left (carriage, see pp. 21, 22). The easiest ascent is by one of the Cable Tramways mentioned at p. 23 , which pass under the Corso and unite the lower town with the new quarter of Rione Vomero (PI. C, D, 5), which is still only partly built and sparsely inhabited. One of these has its lower terminus at Monte Santo ^ to the W. of the Toledo (PI. E, 4; p. 40), the other, more convenient for the majority of travellers, begins in the Rione Amedeo (PI. C, 6), and has an intermediate station near the Hotel Bristol in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele. The upper terminus of the former line is about 1/4 M. to the N. W. (turn to the left from the exit), that of the other 1/2 M. to the W. (turn to the right), of the entrance to the Castel S. Elmo, on the N.E. side (marked Mngr.’ on our Plan). The Castel Sant’ Elmo (875 ft.), or Sajif Ermo, fomrerly Sanf ErasmOj was erected under Robert the Wise in 1343 and consider- ably enlarged and strengthened in the 15 -17th centuries. The vast walls , the fosses hewn in the solid tuffstone rock , its sub- terranean passages, and ample cistern formerly obtained for it the reputation of impregnability. The fort is now used as a military prison, and is accessible only by special permission. On entering the precincts of the fortifications we proceed to the suppressed Carthusian monastery of — ^S. Martino (PI. D, 5), which is not less remarkable for the beauty of its situation and its views, than for the value of its con- tents. It was begun in 1325 by Duke Charles of Calabria, but was entirely rebuilt in the 17th century. Admission, see p. 29. If time be limited, the Belvedere should first be visited. Beyond the court, in which is situated the main entrance (always closed) of the church, we reach the Monastery Court, where sarcophagi, inscriptions, marble coats-of-arms , etc., are exhibited, and enter a wide archway, immediately to the right in which is the former laboratory of Quarters. NAPLES. :i. Route. 83 the convent, a large and lofty vaulted apartment^ on the walla are church- banners. — The Hall to the left of tliis contains the pictures, for which there was no room in the Museo Na/ionale. The title and artist’s name are attached to each frame. Some of the pictures are good examples of Neapolitan masters of the 16-17th centuries. In the centre of the apart- ment is the gorgeous Barge., used by Charles 111. for excursions in the Gulf of Naples. The adjoining Room contains Battle Pictures (explained by the attendant) and ancient Views of Naples., with an interesting represent- ation of a royal visit to the festival of Piedigrotta. The State Coach in the centre used to appear in municipal festivals at Naples, and was occupied by Victor Emmanuel and Garibaldi on entering the city in 1860. The uniforms of the former Consiglieri Municipali are preserved in a case in this room. A third small Room contains ancient banners. We now return through the laboratory to the monastery-court, and enter a long, narrow Corridor by the open door in the middle of the wall. Here on each side is an open door. — That to the left admits to a room containing Models of Italian Fortresses. — The door to the right leads through a passage to a "'Representation of the Infant Christ and his mother at the foot of a ruined temple, with the three .Magi, and scenes of Nea- politan life, in a mountainous landscape. This ‘Presepe’, the delight of all Neapolitans, young and old, is worth seeing on account of the costumes and as a specimen of the erections which have been common at Christmas in the private houses and churches of Naples since the 15th century. The narrow corridor leads to the *Cloisters, with 60 columns of white marble. — We then traverse (door immediately to the left) the Audience Room and the Chapter-House , the roof of which is painted by Corenzio (to the left, the ‘Coro dei Laid Conversi’), to the church, of which we first enter the choir. The Church, which consists of a nave with three chapels on each side, is richly embellished with marble. On the ceiling is an Ascension, and between the windows the Twelve Apostles, by Lanfranco. Over the principal entrance, a "'Descent from the Cross by Stanzioni (damaged), and next to it, Moses and Elias by Spagnoletto. The Apostles above the arches of the chapels are by the same artist. Frescoes of the choir by tlie Cavaliere d^Arpino. The Crucifixion by Lanfranco. On the wall at the E. end. Nativity, unfinished, by Guido Beni (who died during the progress of the work). On the sides : to the left. Communion of the Apostles, by Spa- gnoletto (in the style of Paolo Veronese), and Christ washing the disciples’ feet, by Caracciolo ; to the right, the same subject by Stanzioni., and In- stitution of the Eucharist, by the pupils of P. Veronese. The marble de- corations of the church, twelve different roses of Egyptian basalt, after Co- simo Fansaga of Carrara, the beautiful mosaic marble pavement by Presti^ and the high-altar by Solimena also merit inspection. — The Sacristy, entered to the left from the choir, is adorned with intarsias by Bonaventura Presto., and paintings by the Cavaliere d'Arpino, Stanzioni, and Caravaggio. — Beyond it is the Tesoro, containing as an altar-piece a "'Descent from the Cross, the masterpiece of Spagnoletto, fine in colouring and admirable for its delineation of pain ^ on the ceiling, Judith, by Luca Giordano, said to have been painted in 48 hours, when the artist was in his 72nd year. We return through the chapter-house to the cloisters; immediately to the right is the entrance to the — Museum. Room I. Silver vessels; objects in marble; reliquary. — Room II. Majolicas from Castelli in the Abruzzi (Collection Bonghi) , in- teresting as specimens of a local industry, but otherwise unimportant; most of the pieces date from the 17th cent, or later. — Room III. Early Venetian glass, porcelain, and ivory carvings; huge old choir-books with miniatures (16th cent.); priest’s robe; lady’s court-dress of the tiijie of Ferdinand VII. — Room IV. Mirrors with chased figures; old chairs. — Room V. Prison-jacket and other relics of the Italian statesman Carlo Poerio (1803-67; comp. p. 40) and of his brother Alessandro, the patriotic poet (b. 1802), who died in 1848 from wounds received at the defence of Venice; the hat of Card. Buffo ; bust of the vnoAk. Lampanella, executed in 1818. — From R. II. we turn to the right into Room VI. Reduced G* 84 Route 3. NAPLES. VT. Hill of copies of antique sculptures. To tlie right, in a niche, is the wax figure of Padre Rocco, a Neapolitan street-preacher and philanthropist who died at the beginning of this century. — Room VII. On the floor of this room are mosaics of the signs of the Zodiac. The remainder of the collection of majolicas. The best pieces are (beginning to the right); Heliodorus; Is- raelites crossing the Red Sea; Toilette of Venus; Diana asleep; Judg- ment of Paris, a curious rendering by LolU; Apollo and the Python; Roar-hunt; Battle of Alexander; Bacchic procession; Galatea; Jupiter and Juno (groups from the frescoes by the Carracci in the Pal. Farnese in Rome); David and Goliath; Finding of Moses ; Bacchus and Ariadne. — Room VIII (to the left of R. I). Uniforms of the Bourbon period ; two large paintings of the capture of Capri by Murat. — Rooms IX and X. Modern pictures. Embroidery in silk (Judith, Esther. Flight into Egypt, etc.). At the end of the right wing of the cloisters is a door leading to the right through a corridor to the **Belvedere, a hexagonal room with two b^conies commanding exquisite views of the city, the bay, Mt. Ve- suvius, and the fertile country as far as Nola and the Apennines. It is less extensive than that from the walls of Castel S. Elmo , but more picturesque. Farther on in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele lie the hotels men- tioned at p. 19. Beside the Hotel Bristol is a stopping-place of the Rione Amedeo cable-tramway (p. 23). Thence a street descends past the small Pared Margherita^ and a little farther on a private road ascends to several villas belonging to Conte G, G'rifeo. Beyond Parker’s Hotel the Via Tasso diverges to the right (see below). The first station of the Cumae Railway is farther on between two tun- nels (PI. B, 6; p. 91). — The Corso Vitt. Emanuele ends at the Piazza di Piedigrotta (see p. 85). VI. Hill of Posilipo. A most interesting circular tour may be made from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele up the Via Tasso to the top of the hill of Posilipo and thence back by the Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. 87) to the Villa Nazionale; a walk of 3V2-4hrs. or a drive of 11/2-2 hrs. [Cabs should be hired by the hour, as shown under b on p. 22.] The view is best in the late afternoon. The hill which bounds Naples on the W., with its villages and numerous charming villas, derives its name of Posilipo^ or Posil- lipoj from Pausilypon (‘sans-souci’), the villa of the notorious epicure Vedius Pollio, afterwards the property of Augustus, which was gradually extended to the whole hill. The Posilipo is most conveniently visited either from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele or from the Villa Nazionale. We begin with the former. The ’^Via Tasso (PI. B, A, 6), finished in 1885, which diverges from the Corso Vitt. Emanuele beside Parker’s Hotel (see above) and gradually ascends the hill of Posilipo, commands most beauti- ful views of Naples and its bay, and of Vesuvius. The street from tbe Corso to the top of the hill is barely 1^4 M. in length, but for the ascent about 3/4 hr. is required. The first house on the left is the International Hospital (p. 24). Farther on are some new vil- las. At the top is the Trattoria Pallino (p. 21). The ‘Strada Belvedere’ (PI. A, 6), leading from the Vomoro (p. 82) aud running destitute of view between garden-walls, is Pusitipo. NATLKS. .7. Haute. 85 joined by the Via Tasso, and tlien ascends, under tlie name of ‘Strada Patrizi’, the long hill of Posilijio to the S. Here and there the garden-walls cease and allow of a beautiful view across the Bay of Pozzuoli to Cape Miseno and Ischia. A little before we reach the ( 13 4 M.) tillage of Poi’?!^ipo , the road crosses the line of the Posilipo grottoes (see below), which pierce the lull 465 ft. lower. A new quarter here, for which the name Parco Savoia has been pro- posed, is connected with the new grotto by means of a lift (see below). The road beyond Posilipo, which commands beautiful views, continues in the same direction past the village of Strata on the right, to (2 M.) the Strada Nuova di Posilipo, which we reach at its highest point, near the Villa Thalberg (a little more than 3 M. from the junction of the Via Tasso). The distance back to Naples by the Strada Nuova di Posilipo is about 4 M. (to the Piazza Umberto, PI. B, 7, about 3 M.). Comp. p. 87. The Piazza Umberto (p. 33), at the W. end of the Villa Nazio- nale, is adjoined on the N.W. by La Torretta (PI. B, 7), an oblong space in which are a tramway-station (Nos. 1 and 7, pp. 22, 23) and the station for the steam-tramway to Puorigrotta, Bagnoli, and Poz- zuoli (No. 5, p. 23). The Mergellina (p. 86) diverges here to the S.W., while the Strada di Piedigrotta leads straight to the W. to the hill of Posilipo The Strada di Piedigrotta (PI. B, A, 7), along which the above- mentioned steam-tramway runs, brings us in 5 min. to the small Piazza di Piedigrotta, where the Corso Vittorio Emanuele diverges (p. 84). At this point rises the church of S. Maria di Piedigrotta, a building of the 13th cent. , but much altered, and finally restored in 1850 after the return of Pius IX. from Gaeta. It contains a very old picture of the Madonna, and an interesting Pieta in the Flem- ish-Neapolitan style, the wings evidently executed under Sienese influence (2nd chapel to the right). The large side-chapel, to the right of the high-altar, contains the tombs of the Filangieri, and a statue of Gaetano Filangieri, the famous jurist (see p. 144). — For the festival of Piedigrotta, see p. 28. The Strada di Piedigrotta is continued by the GrOtta Nuova di Posilipo (PI. A, 7), a tunnel bored in 1882-85 through the hill of Posilipo to replace the old Grotto (now closed) , and giving passage to the steam-tramway and other traffic, which creates a deafening noise. It is 800 yds. long (or with the approaches 1100 yds.) , 40 ft. high , and 40 ft. wide, and is always lighted with gas. On a few days in March and October, the setting sun shines directly through the grotto , producing a magic illumination. — In the middle is the lift (see above) to the new quarter of Parco Savoia. At the W. end of the tunnel is the village of Fiiorigrotta (p. 92). The Old Grotto, reached by the old road diverging to the left, from the approach to the new Grotto, but now closed, is a masterpiece of ancient engineering, probably constructed in the reign of Augustus. It is men- 86 Route 3. NAPLES. vj. mu of tioned by Seneca and Pelronius, under Nero, as a narrow and gloomy pass. Mediaeval superstition attributed it to magic arts practised by Virgil. King Alpbonso I. (about 1442) enlarged tbe opening; a century later Don Pedro de Toledo caused the road to be paved; and it was again im- proved by Charles III. (1754). Among the vineyards above the old road, to the S.E., is an ancient Ro- man Columbarium, popularly known as the Tomb of Virgil (now quite inaccessible). The name of the monument is without satisfactory historical foundation, though local tradition favours the assumption that this was VirgiPs last resting-place. The poet, as he himself informs us, here composed his immortal works , the Georgies and the .lEneid, and he unquestionably possessed a villa on the Posilipo, and by his express wish was interred here after his death at Brundisium, B.C. 19, on his return from Greece. Petrarch is said to have visited this spot accompanied by King Robert, and to have planted a laurel, which at the beginning of the present century fell a prey to the knives of relic-hunters, and has since been re- placed. It is on record that in 1326 the tomb was in a good state of preservation, and contained a marble urn with nine small pillars, the frieze of which bore the well-known inscription : — Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc Parthenope : cecini pascua, rura, duces. Of all this no trace now remains. The following inscription was placed here in 1554 : — Qui cineres ? tumuli hsec vestigia : conditur olim Ille hie qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces. To the S.W. of La Torretta (p. 85) diverges the Strada di Mer- GELLiNA (PI. B, 7), which 5 min. farther on crosses the Corso Vitt. Emanuele (pp. 85, 81 ; ordinary cab-fare to this point), and forms the entrance of the Strada Nuova di Posilipo. The last begins about Y 2 M. from La Torretta, before the street turns a corner. A little before this corner, we observe above us, to the right, the small Chiesa del Sannazaro, or S. Maria del Parto. (We ascend the approach to the church and mount the steps to the left, which lead in three flights to the terrace above the houses Nos. 10-17.) The church stands on the site of a small estate which King Frede- rick II. of Aragon presented in 1496 to the poet Jacopo Sanna- zaro (b. at Naples, 1458), for whom he entertained the highest regard. After his villa had been destroyed by the French, the aged poet caused the church to be erected by monks of the Servite order in 1529. It derives its name from his Latin poem, ‘De partu Vir- ginis’ (Naples, 1526). The church contains a high-altar and six chapels. In the 1st chapel to the right, St. Michael overcoming Satan, by Leonardo da Pistoja. The devil is represented with the features of a woman of whom Diomedes Carafa, Bishop of Ariano, was once passionately enamoured. Behind the liigh-aitar is the monument of the poet (d. 1530), executed by Fr'a Giovanni da Montorsoli from a design by Girolamo iSantacroce. At the sides, Apollo and 3Iinerva , popularly believed to be David and Judith ; on a bas-relief between them, Neptune and Pan, with fauns, satyrs, and nymphs singing and playing, an allusion to Sannazaro’s poem ‘Arcadia’ ; above is the sar- cophagus with the bust of the poet, which bears his academic name: Actius Sincerus. The inscription at the base of the monument by Bembo (‘Maroni . . . Musa proximus ut tumulo’) alludes to the poet’s having imitated Virgil. His principal works are idyls, elegies, and epigrams in Latin. PosUipo. NAF’LKS. :L Route. 87 The *Strada Nuova di Posilipo, whicli at first skirts the coast, and then gradually ascends round the S. slope of the hill, was hc- giin in 1812 during the reign of Murat, and completed in 182B. It leads between many beautifully situated villas, commanding exquisite views, and should on no account be omitted from the traveller’s programme. Tramway, see No. 1, p. 22. Immediately at the beginning of the street rises the Villa Angri. On the left (Y 2 M. from the Chiesa del Sannazaro), we next ob- serve on the sea the picturesque ruins of the Palazzo di Bonn* Anna (erroneously called that of the Regina Giovanna) , begun in the 17th cent, by Fansaga for Donna Anna Carafa, wife of the viceroy Duke of Medina, but never completed. To the left, on the coast, just before reaching the Palazzo di Donn’ Anna, we pass the Trattoria della Sirena, mentioned at p.21 ; in the Palazzo itself are two other trattorie, and just beyond it is the Trattoria dello Scoglio di Frisio. In front of the adjacent Marine Hospital^ a curious group of statuary (St. Francis, Dante, Columbus, and Giotto) was erected in 1883. Boats for returning are generally to be found below the restaurants : to the Villa IV 2 , to the town 2-3 fr, ; Cab fi*om the Piazza del Plebiscito to the Frisio 1 fr. (bargain necessary). The tranaway-cars mentioned at p. 22 also pass the Villa. The road leaves the sea and. ascends in windings round the spur of the hill. To the left, the Villa Cottrau, which stretches from the road to the sea, and the Villa Capella (tramway-station ; passengers going on to the Capo di Posilipo usually change cars); to the right, the Villa Dini; to the left again, the Villa d'Abro^ the Villa Rendell^ in which Garibaldi (d. 1882) spent his last winter (tablet at the entrance), the Villa Antona- Traversa., and the Villa Gallotti. On the hill to the right is the huge Mausoleum of Baron Schilizzi^ in the Egyptian style. To the left, the Villa Riv alta; and to the right, the Regina Margherita Orphanage. About 11/4 M. from the Frisio, beyond a church on the right, with a relief of the Madonna over its portal, a road diverges to the left, descending past the Villa Be la Hante to the Capo di Posilipo. The small church of S. Maria del Faro j in the vicinity, occupies the site of an old lighthouse. We command beautiful views of the Gulf of Naples. The main road ascends for 1/2 rnore to the Villa Thalherg and the tramway- terminus, near which it is joined by the road described at p. 85. — [A footpath to the left leads to (II /2 M.) the fisher-hamlet of Marechiaro, where there is a favourite trattoria. A few fragments here are said to belong to the villa of Vedius Pollio (see p. 84).] — The road then passes the Villa Sanssouci and leads through a deep cutting to a (V 4 M.) projecting round platform (‘Bella Vista’) which commands a magnificent *View towards Bag- noli, Camaldoli, Pozzuoli, Baiae, and Ischia. The road now descends on the W. side of the Posilipo, com- manding a fine view the whole way. On the left, ^4 M. below the 88 Route 3. NAPLES. VI. Hill of Posilipo. round platform, is the entrance to the so-called Grotto of Sejanus, a passage hewn through the rock of the Posilipo, about 990 yds. in length , resembling the old Grotta di Posilipo (fee 1 fr. ; the in- spection occupies about ^2 This is the tunnel whose construction is ascribed by Strabo to M. Cocceius Nerva (B. C. 37), almost simultaneously with that of the Julian harbour on the Lucrine lake by M. Agrippa. It is therefore a mistake to associate it with the name of Sejanus, as it is of much earlier origin. An inscription records that the tunnel was repaired by the Emp. Honorius about the year 400. At the E. end of this passage, especially near the rocky promontory of La Oaiola , the most beautiful views are obtained of Nisida, Procida, Ischia, Capri, and the bay of Naples. The custodian conducts the visitor from the grotto to a vineyard in the vicinity (fee 30-50 c.), whence a magnificent view is enjoyed (from the top of the hill on the right, to which visitors should request to be con- ducted). Here also some of the scattered fragments of the Pau&ilypon.^ or villa of Vedius Pollio (p. 84), are visible, extending from the slope of the hill down to the sea, and overgrown with myrtles, erica, and broom. — In the adjoining property, visible through the hedge, we observe the Scuola^ or properly Scoglio (rock) di Virgilio^ perhaps once a temple of Fortune, or of Venus Euploea, to whom mariners sacrificed after a prosperous voyage. — The fish-ponds, in which the cruel Vedius was in the habit of feeding large lampreys with the flesh of his slaves, lay nearer the town. — A small Theatre is also seen, which belonged to a villa of Lucullus, with seventeen rows of seats hewn in the rock. Besides these are numerous other relics of villas (comp. p. 85). The S.W. spur of the Posilipo is called Capo CorogUo^ opposite which rises the small rocky island of Nisida, the Nesis of the an- cients, an extinct crater, which opens towards the S. On the quay is a quarantine building. On the N. side is a rock, connected with the mainland by a breakwater, and bearing the lazzaretto. The building on the height is a bagno for criminals. The son of Lucullus possessed a villa on this island, to which Brutus retired after the murder of Csesar in the spring of B. C. 44, and where he was visited by Cicero. He took leave here of his wife Portia on his departure for Greece, previous to the battle of Philippi, the news of which caused her to commit suicide by swallowing burning coals. In the 15th cent. Queen Johanna II. possessed a villa here, which was converted into a fort for the purpose of keeping the fleet of Louis of Anjou in check. From the entrance of the Grotto of Sejanus to Bagnoli (p. 92) is about 11/4 M., so that the whole distance thither from the Villa Nazionale (p. 32) is about 6 M. Bagnoli is a station on the railway and the tramway to Pozzuoli (p. 93). Camaldoli. An Excursion to Camaldoli and back, including stay there, takes 4-4V2 hrs. by carriage (with one horse 6, two horses 9-10 fr.)^ on foot 41/2-51/2 hrs.; on donkey-back a little less (2-21/2 fr. and a trifling fee to the attendant). The bridle-path from Antignano , which walkers will find pleasant, cannot be mistaken if the following directions be attended to (see also Plan, p. 18, and Map, p. £0). — The early morning and the evening lights are the most favourable for the views, particularly the latter. The traveller, however, should start on the return-journey in good time, as the path is rough in places, and it is anything but pleasant to walk through the beggar-haunted suburbs of Naples after dusk. — The monastery is forbidden ground for ladies, who, however , may reach an (\nn(}ldoU. NATIVES. .‘i. Jioulc. 80 equally g:o()(l point of view a little lower (p. 90). The monks supply bread and wine on request, but in any case expect a donation (V'i fr. for one pers., 1 fr. for a party). The Cauriagf. Road to Oamaldoli begins at the PortaS. Martino (PI. A, 1,2; comp, also the Map at p. 90), the N.W. gate of the cus- toms wall (‘MiiroFinaiiziere’ or‘Ciiita claziana’)that describes a wide circle round Naples. This point is reached from the Villa Nazioriale via the Grotta di Posilipo and Fuorigrotta (p.91) and thence by the gradually ascending road outside the customs wall (comp. PI. A, 5; carr. in 1 - 11/4 tr.) ; or (somewhat shorter) from the Corso Yitt. Emaniiele up the Via Tasso, then by the Strada di Belvedere via Antignano and Archetiello (see below), and finally by the road out- side the wall. In about 1/2 hr. from the Porta S. Martino, carriages reach Nazaret^ a group of houses to the N. of Oamaldoli. Here we alight (guide unnecessary), pass through the archway with a tablet bearing the name of the place (beside the Trattoria Fracchiacconi), turn to the left a little farther on, follow the cart-road along the slope of the hill, pass through a hollow way, and then gradually ascend. Bearing to the right, we reach the N. corner of the wall of the monastery-garden in ^4 iir., and proceeding to the right, immediately afterwards the entrance. Pedestrians, after taking the cable-tramway to the Rione Vomero, traverse first this new quarter and then the village of Antignano (PL 0, B, 4), and soon reach V Archetiello (PI. B, 4; so called from a former gate), where there is an office of the Dazio Consumo , or municipal customs on comestibles. About 200 paces farther on, we take the bridle-path diverging to the left a little on this side of the ‘Villa Curcio’, and passing a group of houses. The path then immediately passes under a viaduct and enters a hollow (to which point our Plan of Naples extends : A, 4, 3). The path runs between bushes and pines. (The path diverging to the left beneath an archway, V 4 farther on, must not be followed.) After 20 min. the path turns beyond two semi-detached houses a little to the left to the (4 min.) farm -buildings of Camaldolilli. and passes through the wooden gate, immediately beyond which it ascends to the right at a sharp angle, in the direction of the Trattoria di Campagna, affording a fine view of S. Elmo, Naples, Vesuvius, and the bay. After 7 min., at the point where the path descends slightly, a path diverges to the right to Nazaret, while our route descends to the left and skirts a gorge, through which is obtained a fine view of Capri. In 3 min. more, at a grotto-like hollow in the rocks (on the right), we pass a path turning sharply to the left, and in 7 min. reach a point where another path diverges to the right to Nazaret and a forest-path leads to the left, while the main path to Oamaldoli runs in a straight direction, soon ascend- ing rapidly. Where the road divides, 5 min. farther on, we keep straight on , and in 7 min. more we turn to the right to a closed gate, on passing through which riders have to pay 20 c. and 90 Route 3. NAPLES. walkers 15 c. eacli. The path then skirts the wall of the mon- astery-garden and rounds the N.W. corner, where it is joined by the path from Pianura via Nazaret (p. 89). The path to the point of view outside the monastery (see below) also diverges here. We reach the entrance to the monastery in 5 min. more. Visitors ring at the gate. *'^‘Camaldoli, a monastery of the Camaldulensian order, found- ed in 1585 , was suppressed by the Italian government in 1863, hut in 1885 passed into private hands and is still inhabited by ten monks. It stands on the E. summit of an amphitheatre of hills which enclose the Phlegrsean plain on the N., being the highest point near Naples (1475 ft.), and commands one of the most magni- ficent views in Italy. The monastery and church contain nothing worth seeing, and we therefore proceed at once to the garden. The best point of view is straight before us. The view embraces the bays of Naples, Pozzuoli , and Gaeta, the widely extended city (of which a great part is concealed by S. Elmo) with its environs, the Agnano valley, the craters of Solfatara and Astroni, the pro- montories of Posilipo and Misenum, the islands of Nisida, Procida, and Ischia, and the districts of Baise, Cumse, and Liternum. Towards the S. the view is bounded by Capri and the Punta della Campa- nella. The small towns of Massa, Sorrento, and Castellammare are visible; also Monte Sant’ Angelo, the smoking cone of Vesuvius, and the luxuriant plain at its base. To the W. is the open sea, with the islands of Ponza, Ventotene, S. Stefano, and Isola delle Botte. Parties which include ladies (p. 88) may reach a scarcely in- ferior point of view, by striking off by the path descending to the right, between the N.W. corner of the monastery- wall and the en- trance (see above), and then proceeding along the slope beneath the wall to a (8 min.) gate (marked ‘ Veduta Pagliana^), for open- ing which a fee of 25 c. for each person is demanded. At the S. base of Camaldoli lies the village of Soccavo^ to which a steep and rough path descends in 3/4 hr. from the Veduta Pagliana, shortly before the 25 c. gate is reached. 4. Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum, and Cumse. The Phlegraean Plain^ a district to the W. of Naples, has from time immemorial been a scene of tremendous volcanic activity, and as lately as the 16th cent, has undergone vast changes , of which the traveller will observe traces at every step. This tract is, however, scarcely less interesting in an historical than in a physical point of view. It was here that Hellenic civilisation first gained a footing in Italy, and constant communication was thenceforth maintained between this portion of the peninsula and the East. The legends of Hellenic tradition are most intimately associated with these coasts, and the poems of Homer and Virgil will continue to invest it with a peculiar interest as long as classic literature exists. The prosperity of this lovely coast has long since departed. The grand creations of imperial Rome, the innumerable palatial villas of the Roman aristocracy, have long been converted into a chaotic heap of ruin.'i by convulsions of nature, and have left behind comparatively slight traces of their former magnificence. The malaria, which in summer prevails in many parts of the district, is I •Maria CsaicelloL, tune CasteJ Voltui^H JPcUri^ Jiavxzie dzOi 'p. l.Catu Hxilhi^ usat iA T'.'^Oavi teb Jf fntcfino 1 ^ Pozzuoli E. M.Epoineo {S.2Jicol< M. MffrttagnoTie 5f. MiNturvo R .M.Rotoro C.dtPosilipo VObrnoA JUiseno F.S.Pcmcm ao ^c^P.8;.Angao ISCHIA Scala di i; 400,000 / JUigtia Tedc^che, f X ~X JUigh/i, lloJicme, F- Flurtie Serapeu^tJ Leu Torre '^rino ; Lago del Fusaro Casino . 0 Reale. i II ^ ^^ntu3d. POZZUOLI 'demuTor^" ^Castello diBaja [; & 0 L F 0 D 1 '% Teairo cavdeo detco ^ Sepolcro diAgripina r iTare // Satme^ di Miseno' JlTamo FT'difmno Capo Mseno IdiN GflogTapTi. Aiistalt TTOti. 'Wagner & PeT)eB, Leipzig. XS.M.drnjiT *Orazi^ LdiAgnanol oscillate )t^ 6e9^dp!^ piv^d/ \^^stello dell’ Ovo d^sa,. del Siumax z aro (PARTE OCCIDENTAL Ej Scala di i; loo.ooo Chile metri '." (rTotto/, FuntcL, Mr!' Firiera , AbbrcAnazioni : 9r'. Sc. Scvqlio, Sp'f' Spiaggipu, Tf Torre-, nila., Vf VdUone . Lithogr. V. Busch * ^eirker . \ Z Naples. POZZTIOLT. 4. Route. 93 Bsignoli^Ristorante Figlio di Pietro., at the tramway-station ; Caffe Lombardo j at tl\o railway ) is a small watering-place with hot springs, some of which contain salt and carbonic acid gas, others sulphur and iron. There arc several bath and lodging houses. Bagnoli is much frequented by Neapolitans in July, August, and September. There are two railway-stations : Bagnoli and Terme. From Bagnoli by the Strada Nuova di Posilipo to Naples, see pp. 88-86. From Bagnoli to Pozzuoli, 2^2 M., the road and railway skirt the coast. In the lava hills (pierced by one long and two short railway - tunnels) which rise near the sea are extensive quarries (petriere) , where convicts are employed. The tramway stops at Prime Case, just outside the town, at an archway forming the en- trance; it then penetrates a small tunnel, and finally stops at the Piazza Vitt. Emanuele. The railway passes through a tunnel beneath the town and halts on the N. side. Pozzuoli. — Restaurants ; Ristorante Armstrong., with rooms, at the harbour, near the railway-station (the proprietor, Vine. Buono^ speaks French and a little English); Ristorante G. Polisana (Figlio di Pietro)., in an old convent close to the sea, near the tramway-station. Guides, Cab-drivers., Donkey-boys., and Beggars assail the traveller per- tinaciously the moment he arrives. The services of the guides may well be dispensed with. For a walk through the town, to the Amphitheatre, and the Temple of Serapis 1 fr., or, with the addition of the Solfatara, lV 2 fr., suffices; donkey' to the Solfatara 1 fr. — The guides and others also importune visitors to buy ^antiquities’’, which are manufactured at Naples and then buried to give them the requisite coating of rust or verdigris. Genuine antiquities may be purchased of De Criscio, in the ‘place’ in front of the church of the Deipara, mentioned at p. 94. Steamboat to Procida and Casamicciola., see p. 103. Those who arrive by Tramway should leave the carriage at the station of Fontanella., turn to the right (comp. p. 94), and ascend to the Solfatara., Amphitheatre., and Temple of Serapis (13/4-2 hrs. inch stay). The harbour may be visited on returning, if time permit. — Those who arrive by Railway (Ferrovia Cumana) lirst descend from the station to the public gardens (p. 94), follow the highroad to the right to (2 min.) the lane on the right, in which is the entrance to the Temple of Serapis. We then ascend the lane farther, cross the railway, and turn to the right to the highroad leading uphill; thence we either cross the highroad diagonally and after 120 paces take the paved ‘Strada Mandra’, leading to the left to the ‘place’ in front of the Deipara (p. 94), whence the ‘Via Anfiteatro’ leads to the left to the Amphitheatre (10-12 min. from the Temple of Serapis); or ascend the highroad (see above) to the left as far as the Uffizio Daziario, there turn sharp to the right, and proceed to the Amphitheatre (25 min. from the temple). From the Amphitheatre we proceed as indicated on p. 95, pass to the left of the Deipara, ascend to the Solfatara (there and back hr.) and descend to the tramway-terminus at the E. entrance of the town (in all a walk of 2 hrs.). Pozzuoli, a quiet town with 16,000 iiihab., situated on a pro- jecting hill and at its base, on the bay of the same name, which forms part of the Bay of Naples, was founded at an early period by the Greeks and named by them Dicaearchia. It was subdued by the Romans in the Samnite wars , repeatedly colonised by them, and rechristened Puteoli. It afterwards became the most im- portant commercial city in Italy, and the principal depot for the traffic with Egypt and the East, whence Oriental forms of worship 94 Route 4. POZZUOLT. Environs were introduced here at an early period. St. Paul on his journey to Rome in 62 A.D. spent seven days here (Acts, xxviii). Several ruins, whicli lie ^lose to the modern town, hear witness of its an- cient importance. The town itself presents few attractions. — The volcanic puzzolana earth found in the whole of this district, from which an almost indestructible cement is manufactured, derives its name from Pozzuoli. From the tramway-terminus a broad paved road ascends to the right in windings, leading to the upper town (see below). — Enter- ing by the gate straight in front of us, we soon reach the principal Piazza, in which rise the statue of a senator, bearing the name of Q. Flav. Mavortius Lollianus, discovered in 1704 (head originally not belonging to this statue, but also ancient), and that of Bishop Leon y Cardenas^ viceroy of Sicily under Philip III. — Hence a street to the left runs to the harbour, while the Via Oavour leads to the right to the small Oiardino Pubblico, stretching from the harbour to the station of the Ferrovia Cumana. At the harbour are the remains of the ancient pier, called by Seneca Pilae, by Suetonius Moles Puteolanae. and now Ponte di Caligola. Of twenty-five buttresses, which supported twenty-four arches, sixteen are left, three being under water. They are con- structed of bricks and puzzolana earth, and bear an inscription recording that the pier was restored by Antoninus Pius. A common, but erroneous, impression is, that they were connected with the bridge-of-boats which Caligula threw across the bay of Bai®, in order that, clad in the armour of Alexander the Great, he might there celebrate his insane triumph over the Parthians. — A few yards on the other (N.) side of the square (see above) we reach a lane (with a sign marked ^Bagni di Serapide’) diverging to the right from the highroad and leading to the Temple of Serapis (p. 96). Most travellers will , however, follow the paved road leading to the right (see above) from the tramway-station of Prime Case (p. 93). If we turn to the left at the first bend in this road, we soon reach the Piazza del Municipio, whence we may follow the Via del Duomo and its second side-street to the left to the cathedral of S. Proculo, This occupies the site of a temple of Augustus, erected by L. Cal- purnius, six Corinthian columns from which are still outside. The church contains relics of St. Proculus and the monuments of the Duke of Montpensier, Governor of Naples under Charles VIII. of France, and of Giovanni Battista Pergolese of Jesi, the talented composer of the original Stabat Mater, who died at Pozzuoli in 1736 at the age of 26. We return to the broad road outside the town and ascend it farther, passing the yellow barracks of the Guardie di Finanze (Via Carlo Rosini) and the reddish building of the former Hotel Grande Bretagne. After about 12 min. we reach an oblong, the E. (right) end of which is bounded by the Orfanotrofio Carlo Rosini, for orphan- of Naples. POZZUOLT. d. Route, 95 girls, and the little church Deiparae Consolatrici Sacrum. The road to the left leads to the Amphitheatre (p. 05) , that straight on, past the facade of the church, to the Solfatara. The ascent to the entrance of the Solfatara on foot takes 20 min. (adni. 1/2 each person); 8 min. more to the ‘Bocca grande’. The Solfatara is the crater of a half-extinct volcano, an oblong space enclosed by hills of pumice-stone, from numerous fissures {^‘fumaroli’) in which vapours and sulphureous gases ascend. The ground is hollow in every direction. The powder found at the top, which the guides erroneously call saltpetre, is really ceramohalite, or sulphuretted potter’s clay. The ancients (Strabo) called this crater Forum Vulcanic and believed it to be connected with the crater of Ischia. The only recorded eruption from it, attended with an emis- sion of lava, took place in 1198. — Above the Solfatara, towards the E., rise the Colics Leucogaei^ the white hills whose light-coloured dust was so highly prized by the ancients for colouring groats and other kinds of grain. Several small brooks containing alum have their source here, called I Pisciarelli., the Fontes Leucogaei of the ancients (Plin. Nat. Hist. xxxi. 2), which fall steaming into a ravine be- tween the Solfatara and the Lago d^Agnano. Shortly before our route reaches the Solfatara it is joined on the right by a road coming from the Lago d’Agnano (p. 92). The *View on the latter road is so fine that the traveller should not omit to ascend as far as (6 min.) the Capuchin monastery of S. Gennaro, erected in 1580 on the spot where St. Januarius is said to have been beheaded in 305, and (V 2 M. farther on) the Villa Sarno (p. 92). We now return to the open space before theDeipara and traversing it lengthwise to the N. W., passing the antiquarian depot of De Criscio, enter the Via Anfiteatro, which brings us in less than 3 min. to the entrance of the Amphitheatre, the most interesting and perfect of all the ruins of Pozzuoli (admission 1 fr. ; Sundays gratis). The ^Amphitheatre rests on three series of arches, which were surrounded by an external court ; the two principal entrances were adorned with triple colonnades. The interior contained four tiers of seats in several compartments (cunei), connected by fliglits of steps. The imperial seat was distinguished by Corinthian columns of black marble. The arena, 369 ft. long, and 216 ft. broad, was excavated in 1838 , when a number of subterranean passages and receptacles for the wild beasts, etc., 98 paces long and 53 broad, were dis- covered. By means of a water conduit (to the left of the principal entrance) the arena could be laid under water when naval combats were to be represented; the outlet is in the principal passage. The entrances for the gladiators, and the air-holes and outlets of the dens of the animals are easily recognised. The celebrated gladiator- combats under Nero, when he received Tiridates, King of Armenia, as a guest at his court, took place here, and even the emperor him- self entered the arena. Under Diocletian St. Januarius and his companions were thrown to the wild beasts here in vain, as an in- 96 Route 4, POZZUOLT. Environs scription on tlie chapel dedicated to him records, before they were put to death near the Solfatara. On quitting the Amphitheatre we may either return to the space before the Deipara, thence descend the pavedViaMandra immediately to the right, at the bottom turn to the right, and cross the high- road diagonally (see below); — or from the Amphitheatre we may turn at once to the right and proceed, with a fine view of the Bay of Pozzuoli, to (10 min.) the Ufflzio Daziario, there turn sharply to the left and descend the highroad to (8 min.) the junction of the above-mentioned Via Mandra. Hence we proceed to the right, and after 4 min. cross the railway and turn to the left into the Se- rapis lane, leading, between garden-walls, to the entrance of the Temple of Serapis (on the left side). The so-called Temple of Serapis, or Serapeum^ which, how- ever, is more probably an ancient market-hall (macellum, as at Pompeii; see p. 126), consisted of a square court, enclosed by forty-eight massive marble and granite columns, and with thirty- two small chambers adjoining. The portico rested on six Corinthian columns (three of which remain), once bearing a rich frieze. In the centre of the court stood a circular temple , surrounded by a peristyle of sixteen Corinthian pillars of African marble, which have been transferred to the theatre of the palace at Caserta (p. 9), the bases alone being left. The interior was approached by four flights of steps. The statues of Serapi^, now in the mu- seum at Naples, were found in the neighbourhood. Two inscrip- tions found here mention the restoration of the temple by Marcus Aurelius and Septimius Severus. The ruin was excavated in 1750, but its lower parts, which are under water, were filled up again in order to prevent unhealthy exhalations. — Interesting observations may be made here with respect to the changes in the level of the sea at different periods. That it had risen considerably, even in an- cient times, is proved by the discovery of mosaics 6 ft. below the present level of the pavement and by the different water-marks. Subsequently the lower part of the edifice was buried to a depth of 13 ft., probably by an eruption of the Solfatara. Then once more the entire region sank for centuries beneath the level of the sea. During this period a species of shellfish (Lithodomus, or modiola lithophaga^ still found in this vicinity) attacked the exposed middle portions of the columns, while the bases covered with rubbish re- mained intact. These borings extend to a height of 10 ft., so that at one period the sea -level must have been at least 20 ft. higher than at present. This great change was caused by the convulsion connected with the upheaval of Monte Nuovo(p. 97) in 1538. Since the last century the ground has again been gradually sinking. The lower end of the Serapis lane debouches on the highroad, which brings us (on the left) in 3 min. to the piazza in front of the station of the Ferrovia Cumana. of Naples. LA0U8 AVKUNUS. 4. Route. 97 The Temple of Neptune is a name applied to another ruin, to the W. of the Serapeum , consisting of a few pillars rising from the sea. In the vicinity, also under water, is situated the so-called Temple of the Nymphs., from which a considerable number of columns and sculptures have been recovered. Farther on, a few fragments mark the site of Cicero’s Puteolaheum, a villa delightfully situated on the coast, which the orator in imitation of Plato called his Academy, and where he composed his ‘Academica’ and 'De Fato’. Hadrian (d. at Baiae, A.D. 138) was temporarily interred within its precincts , and Antoninus Pius erected a temple on the spot. Above the amphitheatre was situated a theatre , the ruins of which have not yet been excavated. Other ruins in the vicinity , externally of circular construction, are believed to have been either Baths or a Temple of Diana. The Villa Lusciano contains the so-called Labyrinth , really a piscina, or ancient reservoir. The Piscina Grande , with vaulted ceiling, resting on three rows of ten columns each, still serves as a reservoir, and was doubtless once connected with the ancient aqueduct from the Pausi- lypon to Misenum. — Roman Tombs have been discovered in great num- bers on the old roads, the Via Puteolana to Naples, and the Via Cu- mana to Cumse, but most are now mere shapeless ruins. Others in better preservation have been found on the Via Gampana., leading to Capua, which diverges to the right from the road leading to the N.W. beyond the amphitheatre (comp, the Map, p. 91). The railway to Cumse traverses a short tunnel beyond Pozziioli and then passes the Cantiere Armstrong , a branch of the well- known cannon and armour-plate works of Armstrong & Co. at Newcastle , actively supported by the Italian government. Fine retrospect of Pozzuoli on the left. — IV 4 Pozzuoli) Area Felice., a station at the junction of roads to the Arco Felice (1^4 xM. ; p. 103) and to Cumse (p. 102). The railway skirts the base of the Monte Nuovo (455 ft.), a volcanic hill of comparatively recent origin, having been upheaved on 30th Sept., 1538, after a violent earth- quake. Its form is that of an obtuse cone, in the centre of which is a very deep extinct crater, enclosed by masses of pumice-stone, trachyte, and tufa. The ascent is interesting, and not less so the toilsome descent into the crater. 13/4 M. Station of Lucrino, at the E. end of the small Lacus Lucrinus, which is separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land. An ancient embankment here, still to be traced under the water, was called the Via Herculea, from the tradition that the hero tra- versed it when driving the bulls of Geryon across the swamps. The lake was famed for its oysters in ancient times, and the oyster-cul- ture flourishes again, as of yore. The lake yields also the spigola, a flsh well-known to the Romans. About V 2 M. to the N. of the Lacus Lucrinus , a little in- land, bounded on three sides by hills clothed with chestnuts, vineyards, and orange-gardens, lies the celebrated Lacus Avernus, which was regarded by the ancients as the entrance to the infernal regions on account of its sombre situation and environs. Its banks are now bordered with blocks of lava. Circumference nearly 2 M. ; depth 210 ft. ; height above the sea-level 872 IL Tradition affirmed that no bird could fly across it and live, owing to its poisonous exhalations, and that the neighbouring ravines Baedeker. Italy TII. 12tb Edit.| 7 98 Route 4, BAIA. Environs were the abode of the dismal, sunless Cimmerii, mentioned by Homer (Odyss. xi). Yirgil, too, represents this as the scene of the descent of ^Eneas, conducted by the Sibyl, to the infernal regions (.En. yi. 237). Augustus, by the construction of a naval harbour (Portus Julius)^ the building of which was entrusted to Agrippa, and by connecting this lake with the Lacus Lucrinus, was the first to dispel these gloomy legends. Horace and Virgil accordingly extol the harbour as a prodigy. — The canals and wharves of Agrippa were still in existence in 1538, but the upheaval of the Monte Nuovo destroyed every vestige of them, half filled the Lucrine Lake, and entirely altered the configuration of the neighbourhood. On the S. side of the lake are observed grottoes and cuttings, hewn in the tuffstone rock, which probably once belonged to the Portus Julius. One of these caverns, situated a few hundred paces to the left of the end of the road coming from the Lucrine Lake, and now called the Grotto of the Sibyl, or Grotta d'^Averno^ is entered by a gateway of brick , and consists of a long, damp passage hewn in the rocks and ventilated by vertical apertures. Midway between the two lakes a passage to the right leads to a small square chamber, the '■Entrance to the Infernal Regions\ Near it is a chamber with mosaic pavement and arrangements for a warm bath. It contains lukewarm water, 1 ft. in depth, which rises in the neighbourhood , and is styled by the guides the '■Bath of the SibyV. The grotto is 280 paces in length, and blackened with the smoke of torches. — The visit is on the whole scarcely worth the trouble , and the de- mands of the guides should be beaten down. On the N.W. side of the lake is one end of the Grotta della Pace (p. 103). — On the E. side are the interesting ruins of magnificent Baths^ sometimes called a Temple of Apollo^ Pluto^ or Mercury. The Railway runs by the bigbroad along tbe strip of land be- tween tbe Lucrine Lake and tbe sea, and pierces tbe Punta delV EpitaffiOj round wbicb tbe road runs. To tbe right, before we enter tbe tunnel, lie tbe Bagni di Nerone, a long, narrow, dark passage in tbe rock, at tbe farther end of which rise several warm springs, tbe famed Thermae Neronianae of antiquity, and still frequented by invalids. Tbe entire mountain-slope is covered with innumerable fragments of old masonry, passages, colonnades, mosaic pavements, etc. Tbe bill is pierced by another shorter tunnel, beyond wbicb, to tbe right, is tbe so-called Temple of Diana, and to tbe left, tbe station of Baia, V 2 M. from tbe Lacus Lucrinus and 3 M. from Pozzuoli. — Continuation of railway, see p. 101. Baia. — Restaurants (not suited for night-quarters): Vittoria, near the station, D. 5, dej. 31/2 fr. •, Hotel de la Reine. Carriages (one-horse, for 3 pers.) meet the trains; drive to Miseno and the Lago del Fusaro, including waiting at the Piscina Mirabilis and at Cape Miseno, which is ascended on foot, about 6 fr. (previous bargain necessary). — Walkers require 5-6 hrs. for this expedition; guide unne- cessary. Boat to Pozzuoli for 3-4 persons about 2 fr. ; to Bacoli and Miseno the same; there and back 3-4 fr. ; according to bargain in each case. Baia., tbe ancient Baiae, now regaining some importance, situat- ed on tbe bay of tbe same name and commanding a charming view, was tbe most famous and magnificent watering-place of antiquity, of N(i})les. BACOLI. 4. Route. 99 and liad attained the zenith of its splendour in the age of Cicero, Augustus, Nero, and Hadrian. ‘Nothing in the world can he com- pared with the lovely hay of Baiae’, exclaims Horace’s wealthy Ro- man (Epist. i. 85), who is desirous of erecting a magnificent villa there. Luxury and profligacy, however, soon took up their abode at Baise, and the desolate ruins which now alone encounter the eye point the usual moral. With the decline of the Roman empire the glory of Baiae speedily departed. In the 8tli cent, it was devastated hy the Saracens, and in 1500 entirely deserted hy its inhabitants on account of malaria. Of the imposing baths and villas of the Romans , the founda- tions of which were often thrown far out into the sea, nothing but fragments now remain. In modern times these ruins are often exalted into temples, or otherwise dignified in a manner for which there is not the slightest foundation. The principal remains consist of three large vaults which belonged to baths. We first observe in a vineyard opposite the station, which affords a sufficiently good view of it, a large octagonal building, with a circular interior, a half-preserved dome, and four recesses in the walls , and remains of a water-conduit , styled a Temple of Diana (fee 30-50 c.). Turning to the right on quitting the station, about 150 paces bring us to the Hotel de la Reine, immediately before which, to the right, is the entrance to another vineyard, containing a large circu- lar building, with a vaulted ceiling, open in the centre, and four niches in the walls. This is obviously a bath, but is called a Temple of Mercury or by the peasantry il troglio (trough). Fine echo in the interior (fee 30-50 c. ; women here offer to dance the tarantella for the traveller’s entertainment, 50 c.). About 100 paces farther along the highroad is situated an octagonal structure with a vaulted ceiling, in the interior circular, and 25 paces in diameter , with remains of the ancient lateral chambers, windows, and staircases, somewhat resembling the Minerva Medica at Rome, now called the Temple of Venus. This is a public passage. The highroad, bordered with a number of modern villas, skirts the bay, and then (to the left, the Hotel Vittoria), passing several ancient columbaria, ascends the hill occupied by the Castle of Baia, which was erected in the 16th cent, by Don Pedro de Toledo. It is now let to private persons. About 2 M. beyond Baia we reach the village of Bacoli, which is believed (notlwith absolute certainty) to derive its name from the ancient Villa Bauli, and also boasts of a number of antiquities. The traveller who is pressed for time, however , had better confine his attention to the Piscina Mirabilis (p. 100). The Villa Bauli is celebrated as having been the frequent residence of distinguished Romans , and it was here that Nero planned the murder of his mother Agrippina, in March, A.D. 59, a crime which was afterwards perpetrated at her villa on the Lucrine Lake. The tomb of Agrippina, of 100 Route 4. MARE MORTO. Environs humble pretensions as Tacitus informs us (Ann. xiv. 9 ), was situated on the height by the road to Misenum, near the villa of CsGsar, but the spot cannot now be exactly determined. What is commonly named the Sepolcro d’ Agrippina^ on the coast below the village, a semicircular pass- age with vaulted ceiling, reliefs, and paintings, is really the ruins of a small theatre. Extensive ruins near this, partly under water, are supposed to belong to the villa of the eminent orator Hortensius, and may be visited by boat. Even the pond in which he reared his favourite lampreys is said to be visible. The Villa of Julius Caesar^ on the height near Bauli, was afterwards the property of Augustus, and was occupied by his sister Octavia after the death of her second husband M. Antony; and here she lost her hopeful son, the youthful Marcellus, whom Augustus had destined to be his suc- cessor. It is believed by many that the subterranean chambers, known as the Cento Camerelle, or Carceri di Nerone^ or the Labyrinth^ belonged to the basement story of this villa (fee 1/2 fr. ). They are sometimes visited by torch-light, but the view from them is the chief attraction. On tlie hill to the S. of Bacoli, 10 min. from the entrance to the village, is situated the ^Piscina Mirabilis. (Guide unnecessary. We may either leave the road by the Uffizio Daziario and follow the long street of the village ; or, better , follow the road to the bifurcation mentioned below , and 60 paces beyond it ascend a path diverging to the left from the Misenum road. On the hill we turn to the right. Custodian, whose house is on the right, near the Piscina, ^2 fr. ; he sells vases and other antiquities found in the vicinity.) The Piscina is a reservoir at the extremity of the Julian Aqueduct, 230 ft. in length, 85 ft. in width, with a vaulted ceiling supported by forty-eight massive columns, and admirably preserved. — Following the top of the hill in the same direction (S.) for 5 min. more, we reach a cottage (good wine), the roof of which commands a very fine view , though inferior to that from the Capo Miseno. Near Bacoli, about Y 4 M. beyond the Uffizio Daziario, the road forks : the branch to the right leads to Miniscola, that to the left in a straight direction to Misenum. Both of these roads skirt the mar- gin of the shallow Mare Morto, part of the old harbour of Misenum, from which it has only recently been separated by the embankment which bears the road. The two basins are now connected by a narrow channel only, which is crossed by a bridge. In the time of Augustus a vast naval harbour was constructed at Mise- num by Agrippa , in connection with the works at the Lacus Avernus and the Lacus Lucrinus, in order to serve as a receptacle for the Roman fleet on this coast, like Ravenna in the Adriatic. The harbour consisted of three basins, two outer, one on each side of the promontory called Forno, and one inner, the present Mare Morto. The Punta di Pennata, a narrow promontory which bounds the harbour of Misenum on the N., was penetrated by a double subaqueous passage for the purpose of pre- venting the accumulation of sand at the entrance. A pier was also con- structed on pillars, three of which are still visible under water. Other relics of antiquity abound in the neighbourhood , but it is a difficult matter now to ascertain to what they belonged. Even the situation of the Town of Misenum is not precisely known , although it probably lay near the modern village of that name. Scanty remnants of a theatre are still traceable near the small promontory Jl Forno. Some ruins on the height above are supposed to belong to the once famous villa of Lucullus, of Naples. CAPO MTSENO. 4. Route. 101 afterwards tlie property of Tiberius, wlio died here, and subsequently that of Nero, The Qrotta Dragonara., a long subterranean passage on the W. side of the promontory, with vaulted roof, supported by twelve pillars, is variously conjectured to have been a naval depot or a reser- voir for water. l)eyond the above-mentioned bridge, 1/4 M. from the bifurcation of the road, we pass a white powder-mill (smoking forbidden here), and soon reach ( 1/2 M.) the village of Miseno, situated at the foot of the cape, and proceed to the church. (Carriages cannot go farther.) The ascent (to the top and back l-lY 4 hr.) is fatiguing for ladies. A boy may be taken as guide (‘in coppa’, to the top). We follow the main road to the farm, a little before which we ascend to the right ; a steep and narrow path then leads to the summit through vineyards. The *Capo Miseno is an isolated mass of tufa-rock rising from the sea, which was formerly connected with the mainland only by the narrow Spiaggia di Miniscola (see below), extending towards the W. Its remarkable form gave rise to the belief that it was an arti- ficial tumulus of very ancient origin. Thus Yirgil (^En. vi. 232) de- scribes it as the burial-place of the trumpeter Misenus : — At pius ^neas ingenti mole sepulcrum Inponit.^ suaque arma viro remumque tuhamque Monte sub aereo^ qui nunc Misenus ah illo Dicitur aeternumque tenet per saecula nomen. The summit (300 ft.) commands one of the most striking **ViEWS in the environs of Naples (20 c. to proprietor). It embraces the bays of Naples and Gaeta and the surrounding heights, with the peculiarity that the spectator appears to stand in the midst of a complicated assemblage of straits, peninsulas, bays, lakes, and promontories. On the side next the sea rises a picturesque mediieval watch-tower ; another similar tower has recently been removed to make way for a lighthouse. From the Gape we return to the point where the road forks and follow the road passing to the N. of the Mare Morto. After about 1/2 M. the road again forks; we follow the branch to the right, lead- ing between the Monte di Procida^ a volcanic rock , covered with vineyards yielding excellent wine, and fragments of ancient villas, and the Monte de' Salvatichi, to ( 1^/4 M.) Torre di Gaveta and (2'/2 M.) the Lago del Fusaro (see below). — At the foot of the Monte di Procida is the landing-place (sharcatojo) for boats to Pro- cida (p. 10 i; fr.)* The footpath crossing the narrow strip of coast called the Spiaggia di Miniscola^ about 1 M. in length, separating the sea (Canale di Procida) from the Mare Morto, has been closed by the military au- thorities. The name of Miniscola is said to be a corruption of Mi- litis Schola (‘military exercising-ground’). The distance by Railway from Baia to the Lago del Fnsaro is little more than 1/2 M. Immediately beyond Baia is a short tunnel. The Lago del Fusaro, perhaps once the harbour of Oumfe, to 102 Route 4. CUM^. Environs whicli tlie poetical name of the Acherusian Lake is sometimes applied, is believed to occupy the crater of an extinct volcano. It is celebrated for its oysters. At the station is an unpretending Trat- toria, and 100 paces farther on is the entrance to the Ostricoltura, with a *Ilestaurant and pleasure-gardens, much frequented in spring and autumn (in summer open on Sun. only). In the lake is a pa- vilion or Casino, erected hy Ferdinand I. (open to visitors). The railway ends, II /4 M. farther on, at the Torre di Gaveta or Torregaveta, near which are the ruins of the villa of Servilius Vatia, who retired hither when Nero’s folly and tyranny at Rome had be- come insufferable. (In summer steamboat to Casamicciola, see p. 103). From the Lago del Fusaro a walk of about 3/4 hr. by the road running to the N. past the Ostricoltura brings us to Cumae. About 13/4 M. from the station of Fusaro the road forks, the branch to the right leading to the Arco Felice (p. 103). In a vigna, about 120 paces before this bifurcation, we observe to the right an ancient Amphitheatre with twenty-one tiers of seats, covered with earth and underwood. If we then follow the branch to the left, and after 90 paces diverge from it, beside a large farm-yard, by a path to the left (last part steep), we are led in 1/4 hr. to the site of — Cumae, Greek Cyme, the most ancient Greek colony in Italy, situated near the sea on a volcanic eminence (trachyte), which rises from the extensive plain between the Monte di Procida and the mouth of the Yolturno. The town is said to have been founded by ^olians from Asia Minor in B. C. 1050, or at an even earlier period. Cumae in its turn founded Dicsearchia, the modern Pozzuoli, and Palseopolis, the modern Naples, and exercised the most widely extended influence on the civilisation of the Italian peninsula. All the different alphabets of Italy were derived from the Cumaean^ and Cumae was the centre whence the Hellenic forms of worship, and with them Hellenic culture, became gradually diffused among the aboriginal tribes. Rome received the mysterious Sibylline books from Cumae, and the last of the Tarquinii died here in exile. The city, which once boasted of great wealth and commercial prosperity, was often seri- ously imperilled by the attacks of the neighbouring tribes, especially the Etruscans , who were signally defeated in a naval battle near Cumae , by Hiero of Syracuse, the ally of the citizens, B.C. 474. Pindar cel- ebrates this victory in the first Pythian ode , and a helmet of the en- emy dedicated at Olympia as a votive offering from the spoil was found there (now in the British Museum). At the close of the 5th cent. Cumae participated in the general decline of the Hellenistic towns. In 420 it was stormed by the Samnites, and in 337 taken by the Romans, after which it became a Roman municipium of little importance. Under the emperors it fell entirely to decay, but was restored by the Goths. In the 9th cent, it was burned by the Saracens , and in the 13th it was finally destroyed as a stronghold of pirates by the inhabitants of Naples and Aversa. Fragments of the huge external walls of the former Acropolis are still standing. Beautiful prospect thence towards the sea, Gaeta, and the Ponza Islands, and (to the left) of the Lago Fusaro, Ischia, etc. Extensive remains of the ancient fortifications are preserved, especially on the E. side and by the S. entrance. The rock on which this castle stood is perforated in every direction of Naples, CVMM, 4. Route. 103 with passages and shafts. One of these (descend to the left by the hut), with numerous lateral openings and subterranean passages, is thought to correspond with the description given by Virgil (^n. vi. 41) of the Grotto of the Sibylj which had a hundred entrances and as many issues, ‘whence resound as many voices, the oracles of the prophetess’. The principal entrance is on the side of the hill towards the sea, but most of the passages are blocked up. It is believed that one of the passages leads to a large, dark cavern in the direction of the Lago del Fusaro. Numerous interesting and valuable objects found here are now preserved at Naples (p. 70), Paris, and St. Petersburg. — The form of the temples of Apollo^ Diana., the Giants., and Serapis, where excavations have brought sculptures and columns to light, is not now traceable. The scanty ruins are concealed by vineyards and underwood. On the return we follow the road, mentioned on p. 102, leading to the Arco Felice. After about 400 yds . an ancient paved way diverges to the right to a subterranean vaulted passage, called the Grotta della Pace (after Pietro della Pace., a Spaniard who explored it in the 16th cent.). It was constructed by Agrippa for the purpose of affording direct commun- ication between Cumse and the Lacus Avernus. This tunnel is upwards of 1/2 M. in length, and is lighted at intervals by shafts from above. The floor is covered with deep fine sand. The tunnel debouches on the N.W. bank of the Lacus Avernus (p. 97). About 400 yds. farther the road, still showing traces of the ancient pavement, passes beneath the Arco Felice, a huge structure of brickwork, 63 ft. high and I 8 Y 2 ft. wide, spanning a hollow. On the summit are traces of an aqueduct. The arch may have been exclusively destined for the latter purpose, or it may also have carried a road over the higher ground. A few min. later the way joins a broad road which follows the top of the E. margin of the Lago Averno and then descends to (30-35 min.) the railway-station of Arco Felice (p. 97). 5. Procida and Ischia. Comp, the Map. Steamboats of the JSocietd Napoleiana di Navigazione a Vapore (Naples office. Via Marina Nuova 14) leave Naples once daily (usually at 2 or 3 p.m.), for Procida, Ischia, and Casamicciola, returning from Casamicciola at 5.30 or 6.30 a.m., and twice weekly (on Mon and Thurs. mornings) for Pro- cida, the town of Ischia, Forio, and the Ponza Islands (p. 14), returning from Ischia on Tues. and Frid. afternoons. The voyage from Naples to Procida takes IV 2 hr. ; to Ischia 21/2 hrs. ; to Casamicciola 31/4 hrs. ; to Forio 31/2 hrs. Fares from Naples to Casamicciola 5 or 3 fr., with 5 c. passenger- duty on each ticket. Return- tickets are usually valid for four days. Em- barking or landing at Procida, Ischia, or Casamicciola 15 c., or, with lug- gage, 20 c. each person. Another good communication, perhaps more convenient even than that mentioned above, is afforded by the Ferrovia Cumana (p. 91). After the arrival of the trains of this line at Tovregaveta ., 2-4 steamboats daily (according to the season and the affluence of travellers) run to Pro- cida ( 1/2 hr.), Ischia ( 3/4 hr.), Casamicciola (1 hr. 10 min.), Lacco Ameno (l */4 hr.), and Forio (1 hr. 40 min.). Fares to Procida 3 fr. 15, 2.30, 1.25 (return-tickets 5 fr. 5, 3.70, 2 fr.) ^ to Ischia or Casamicciola 4 fr. 25, 3.40, 1.85 (return 6.80, 5.40, 2.95); to Lacco Ameno or Forio 5 fr. , 4fr. 15, 2fr. 25 c. (return 8 fr., 6 fr. 65, 3 fr. 60 c.). Embarking at Torregaveta gratis , at Ischia 15 c. In bad weather the steamboat occasionally starts from Poz- zuoli instead of from Torregaveta. 104 Route 5. PROCIDA. The most convenient arrangement for visiting these islands varies with the hour at which the start is made from Naples. Those who land at Procida, ascend, to the fort for the sake of the view, and then either traverse the island lengthwise to the bay of Chiaiolella (2 M.) , where boats are found for the crossing to Porto d'' Ischia; or they may go on by the afternoon steamer to Casamicciola. Those who omit Procida need not start from Naples until the afternoon. Next morning drive to Fontana (one-horse carr. from Casamicciola in 4, from Porto dTschia in 3 hrs.), whence Monte Epomeo can easily be ascended in 3/4 hr. It is even possible by making a very early start to return to Naples the same day; but a longer visit is strongly recommended. From Casamicciola to Forio^ see p. 107. A rowing-boat takes 6 hrs. to cross from Ischia to Capri in fine weather (20 fr.). Procida, the Prochyta or Prochyte of the ancients, like its sister-island Ischia, with which it appears once to have been con- nected, is of volcanic origin, being composed of pumice-stone and lava. It consists of two contiguous craters, which now form two semicircular bays , their S. margins having been destroyed by the action of the sea. A third and smaller crater forms the creek of Chiaiolella, and a fourth the neighbouring island of Vivard,^ which has been separated from Procida by some convulsion of nature. The island is 2 M. in length, and of varying width; population 14,000, whose occupations are fishing and the cultivation of the vine and other fruit. The surface is somewhat flat compared with that of its more majestic sister-isle. As the island of Procida is approached, the most conspicuous object is the fort, situated on the N.E. extremity. Below lies the town of Procida, extending along the N. coast, partly built on the higher ground above, and stretching thence towards the S. side. The white, glistening houses with their flat roofs present a some- what Oriental aspect. The chief festivals on the island are St. Mi- chael’s Day (29th Sept.) and 8th May. The landing-place (‘Marina’) is on the N. side. In order to reach the castle we follow the main street of the village, which ascends to the right, opposite the Caffe at the W. end of the Marina, and take the first side-street to the left. This leads to the small Piazza dei Martiri, with a tablet in memory of twelve Procidans who were exe- cuted during the reaction of 1799 (fine view towards the S.). Oppo- site is the primitive Albergo dei Fieri. In 5 min. more we reach the Castle, now a house of correction, situated on a precipitous rock, and commanding fine *Views of Procida and the Epomeo, Capo Miseno, Capri, Vesuvius, and the peninsula of Sorrento. The above-mentioned main street intersects the town from E. to W., and is prolonged to the left by the ‘Strada Vittorio Ema- nuele’, which runs between garden-walls and rows of houses, and traverses the whole island towards the S.W. In 40 min. we reach the Bay of Chiaiolella, situated below the old chateau of S. Mar- garita , and near the small olive -clad island of Vivara. At the Chiaiolella boats for the passage to Ischia are always to be found SPAngelo TSCITIA. 5. Route. 105 (<'^/4 hr. ; fare 2 fr.). As soon as we liave passed Vi vara, we obtain a view of Ischia w'ith its beautiful liills, coiniuauded by tlic suinuiit of the Kpoiueo, w^ith tlie town and castle of Ischia in tlie foreground. Ischia, the Fithecusa, JEnaria., or Jnarime of antiquity, and the mediaeval Iscla, the largest island near Naples, is about 19 M. in circumference, without taking the numerous indentations into account, and has about 20.000 inhabitants, wlio are principally engaged in the culture of the vine (white wine, light and slightly acid) and other fruit, and to a certain extent in fishing. The manufacture of maitoniy a kind of tiles, and other articles from a variety of grey clay (creta) found in the island, is of great an- tiquity. Straw-plaiting has recently been considerably developed at Lacco (p. 107). The island was almost entirely neglected by travellers after the severe earthquake of 1883, but visitors are now beginning to find their way back to the mineral springs, which still retain their efficacy. The climate is genial, the soil extremely productive ; the scenery almost everywhere singularly beautiful, though only seen in its full glory in summer. The entire island is of volcanic origin. Monte Epomeo (the ancient Epomeus^ or Epo- peus^ was an active volcano at a much earlier period than Vesu- vius, and in consequence of its eruptions the island was deserted in B. C. 474 by the greater number of the Greek inhabitants. Eruptions also took place in B.C. 92, and in the reigns of Titus, Antoninus Pius, and Diocletian. According to the ancient poets, the giant Typhoeus, transfixed by the thunderbolt of Jupiter, lay buried beneath this mountain, like Enceladus under ^tna, period- ically groaning and causing fearful eruptions of fire. The last eruption recorded took place in 1302. The stream of lava which on that occasion descended to the sea near Ischia is not yet wholly covered with vegetation. The earthquake of 28th July, 1883, dis- placed a large mass from the mountain. After the fall of Rome, Ischia suffered many attacks and devastations at the hands of the different lords of Italy, especially the Saracens in 813 and 847, the Pisans in 1135, and the Emp. Henry VI. and his son Frederick II. In 1282 it revolted with Sicily against the Anjou dynasty, but was subdued by Charles II. of Naples in 1299, and has since been united with the kingdom and shared its vicissitudes. The celebrated general, the Marchese Pescara^ was born in 1489 at the castle of Ischia, which was afterwards gallantly defended by his sister Constance against the forces of Louis XII. of France. As a reward, her family were invested with the governorship of Ischia, which they retained till 1734. In 1525 Pescara’s widow, Vittoria Colonna, celebrated alike for her talent and beauty, the poetical friend of Michael Angelo, retired to Ischia to mourn her husband’s loss. So, too, did Maria of Aragon in 1548, widow of the Marchese del Vasto. Ischia, the capital of the island and the seat of a bishop, with 7000 inhab., stretches picturesquely along the shore in the form of a street, 1 M. in length, extending from the Castle on its lofty isolated rock on the S. to the Piinta Molina on the N. The castle, erected 106 Route 5. CASAMICCIOLA. Ischia. by Alpbonso V. of Aragon (Alpbonso I. of Naples) about 1450, afterwards the residence of Yittoria Oolonna (p. 105), and connected with the land by a stone pier (280 ft. in length), deserves a visit for the sake of the *Yiew from the roof (20-30 c.). From Ischia a good road skirts the whole N. coast of the is- land, passing Porto d’Ischia and Casamicciola, to (7 M.) Forio, which is situated on the W. coast, and thence to the Monte Im- peratore. It is to be conducted round the S. side of the island to Moropano, the present terminus of the new road from Ischia. From the landing-place at Ischia we follow the road to the right in a straight direction, crossing the Lava delV Arso^ or lava-stream of 1302. About 1 M. from Ischia we reach — Porto d’Ischia ( G^rand Hotel Jasolini^ definite bargain advisable ; Hotel- Pension S. Pietro, R., L., & A. 33/4, D. 4 fr. ; Caffe Anga- rella; Caffe Epomeo, Caffe Jsolano, both well spoken of; all also restaurants, with rooms), also called Bagno dHschia, from several warm salt springs, which are used at different bathing establish- ments. In the piazza, close to the harbour, are the large Bathing Establishment, and a royal park and casino (now a bath). The har- bour, the circular shape of which denotes that it occupies an old crater, was at one time a lake, but it was connected with the sea in 1853-56 in order to afford refuge to vessels in stormy weather. Ex- cursion to Moropano and ascent of Monte Epomeo, see p. 107. The road (‘Yia Quercia’) ascends to the left by a yellow church with Ionic columns, being accompanied by the telegraph-wires, and commanding a beautiful view of the coast and the sea. About 21/2 M. farther on we reach — Casamicciola. — Arrival by Sea. Landing or embarking 15 c., with luggage 20 c. each pers., in a separate boat 1 fr. Porter for conveying luggage to a cab, 20 c. each trunk, greater distances 40-50 c. Hotels, all well spoken of. The three first-named below are on the hill, about 3/4 M. from the Marina, the two others are near the Marina. ^Dombre’s Gr. Hot. Piccola Sentinella, E. 272 - 5 , L, 3/4^ A. 3/4^ b. IV2, dej. 3 , D. 5 , pens. 7-10 fr. ; Gr. Hot. Sauve & Pens. Suisse, R. from 272, B. 174, dej. 272, H. 4 , pens. T-lOfr. ; Hot. delle Terme, near the bath- houses (see below), R. from 272, dej. 272, H. 372, pens. 672-8 fr.^ Hot. del Vesuvio, same proprietor andfprices as the Terme; Hot. -Pens. Pith.®- CDSA, R. 272, dej. 272, D. inch wine 4 , pens, from 6 fr. Pension charges not usually granted at these for less than a week’s stay. Cab with one horse, per drive 70 c., or I72 fr. for the first hr. and 1 fr. each additional hr. •, with two horses, I72, 272, and 1 fr. Boats for 1-4 pers., first hr. 2 , each additional hr. Ifr. ; each addi- tional pers. 20 e. more. Casamicciola, rebuilt under government superintendence since tbe terrible earthquake of 28th July, 1883, in which about 7500 lives were lost, now consists of groups of houses scattered on the slopes of the Epomeo, with a population of about 3500. The higher points command beautiful views over the Gulf of Naples to Yesu- vius, etc. The little town is frequented from May to August by numerous visitors, on account of its cool and healthy situation and warm alkaline and saline springs ; and it is a pleasant resort even Ischia. EPOMEO. 5. Route. 1 07 ill spring and autumn. The Gurgitello., the principal spring, rises in the Vallonc Omhrascoj 154 ft. above the sea-level, with a tempera- ture of 147®Ealir., and its water is used for baths, douches, inhala- tion, etc., in the extensive bath-establishments of ManzimdBelliazzi (^100-115 ft.). The Ospizio Bayni, for the use of the poorer classes, can accommodate 300 bathers. A visit may be paid to the new Campo Santo, at the foot of the Monte Rotaro, to the E., where the victims of the earthquake of 1883 are buried. The road continues along the slope a little longer, and then descends to Lacco, a village where the earthquake was much less disastrous. At the beginning of the village, to the left, is the School of Straw-plaiting (tasteful specimens for sale; comp. p. 26); farther on is situated the church of Sta. Restituta, the patroness of the island, whose festival (17th May) is celebrated by the illumi- nation of the neighbouring Monte Vico. Near the former monastery and in the garden attached to it rise hot springs which are used for vapour-baths. A huge rock in the sea, near the village, is named ‘il Fungo’ from its shape. The road leads above an ancient lava-stream (snakes abundant) from Lacco to (3 M.) Forlo, the most populous place in the island, with upward of 7000 inhabitants. The Ponza steamers (p. 103) touch here. The Franciscan monastery by the sea merits a visit on account of the beauty of its situation. Fine view of the Monte Epomeo and the Punta Imperatore, the S.W. extremity of the island. The Ascent of the Epomeo (horse or donkey 4-5 fr. and fee), occupying 2V2"3 hrs., may be undertaken from any of the principal towns, but is most conveniently accomplished from Fontana, which is reached by carriage in 2-21/2 hrs. from Casamicciola via Porto d’Ischia (carriage and pair there and back 7-8 fr.; provisions should be taken). The road from Porto d’Ischia crosses the Lava dell’Arso (p. 106), the course of which is still distinctly visible above, and leads first through pine-woods and then through luxuriant vineyards and orchards to Barano, beyond which we enjoy a fine survey of the sea and the fertile island. We then cross a gorge and reach Moro- pano, and then Fontana. An easy footpath (guide not necessary) leads hence to the summit in 3/^ hr. — The *Epomeo (2782 ft.) falls away on the N. side almost perpendicularly, but is less steep on the other three sides. At the top are a Hermitage and the Chapel of S. Nicola, hewn in the volcanic rock, from which the mountain is also called Monte S. Nicola. Wine and bread (bargaining necessary) may be obtained from the hermit, and in any case a trifling donation is expected. Passages and steps cut in the rock ascend to the Belvedere, commanding a strikingly beautiful panorama, embracing the bays of Gaeta and Naples. At our feet lies the island of Ischia itself; to the W. the open sea; to the E. the coast of Italy from Terra- cina , the promontory of Circello, and the Ponza islands to Capo 108 Route 6, PORTICI. Miseno, Vesuvius, and the Punta di Campanella, the extremity of the peninsula of Sorrento ; in the foreground Procida, then the in- dentations of the Bay of Naples, to the right the island of Capri; towards the N. the distant snowy peaks of the Ahruzzi. An extremely steep and fatiguing path leads down to Forio in 2 hrs. 6. From Naples to Pompeii (and Salerno). Herculaneum. Railway to Pompeii, 15 M., in 50 min.*, fares 2 fr. 75, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 25 c. (return-tickets 4 fr. 30, 3 fr. 10, 1 fr. 85 c.). — Highroad, see p. 111. The railway from Naples to Pompeii, and thence to Salerno and Metaponto (best views to the right), traverses the suburbs and crosses the insignificant SebetOj a stream which bounds Naples on the E. The huge red building on the right is the Granili^ used as barracks and (as the name imports) corn -magazines. Beyond these we obtain a retrospect of the Castel S. Elmo. This district is densely peopled ; the first village is the straggling S. Giovanni a Teduccio. To the right the view becomes less cir- cumscribed; and Naples, thePosilipo, beyond which rise the moun- tains of Ischia, the island of Capri opposite , and the peninsula of Sorrento are now visible. 5 M. Portici. — Hotel. Bellevue, R. 2-5, pens. 8-10 fr. — Trattoria. Asso DI CoppA, clean and good, but dear unless a Bargain be previously made. Tramway to Naples, see p.22 (Nos. 2, 3); to Torre del Greco, passing the entrance to the excavations at Herculaneum, see p. 22 (No. 2). Portici, a town with 12,500 inhab., is also the station for Re- sina (see below). It has a small harbour formed by a molo, from the end of which a fine view is obtained of the bay. The high- road from Naples to Salerno traverses the town, and also leads through the court of the palace built by Charles III. in 1738. In the somewhat neglected park of the latter is now a school of agriculture. — Continuation of the Railway Journey, see p. 110. Adjoining Portici, immediately beyond the palace, are the houses of Resina, a town with 13,000 inhab., built upon the lava- streams which cover the ancient Herculaneum. The entrance to the excavations is on the right of the highroad, about Y 4 M. beyond the palace, and immediately on this side of a viaduct crossing the Yicolo di Mare. The tramway to Torre del Greco (see above) has a station at the entrance. — Distance thither from the railway-station of Portici ‘^4 M. (guide unnecessary). On leaving the station we follow the main street to the right, and after 7 min. turn to the left (‘Linea Daziaria del Comune di Resina’); in 5 min. more, near the palace of Portici (on the left), we reach the above-mentioned highroad. IIKROULANKIJM. (). lio'iile. 109 which wc follow to the right, passing the oflice of the guides. Over the entrance is the inscription, SScavi di Ercolano’. Admission 2 fr., for which the visitor is provided with a guide (no fees) ; on Sun- days gratis. Herculaneum^ the Heracleia of the Greeks, derived its name from tlie worship of Hercules peculiar to the place. Tradition attributed its foundation to the hero himself, who during his wanderings in the West visited this district. It was inhabited by Oscans, the aboriginal natives of the country, by Etruscans, and by Samnites , before it became subject to Rome. Owing to its salubrious situation on a height, between two rivers, and being near the sea, it became a favourite site for Roman villas. The spot retained its name even after the total annihilation of the town by the eruption of 79. A number of poor families then took up their abode here, but in 472 their village was again destroyed by an eruption, which altered the configuration of the whole coast. Subsequent eruptions increased the depth of ashes and lava under which the old town was buried to 40-100 ft. , that being the depth of the remains at the present day below the surface of the soil. The discovery of Herculaneum took place accidentally in 1719, when the sinking of a well revealed the site of the ancient theatre at a depth of about 90 ft. A few more or less well- preserved statues were found, two of which (female portrait-statues) are now in Dresden. The excavations were then discontinued, but in 1737 Charles III. recommenced operations, which were unfortunately directed by unskilful hands and led to no satisfactory result. In 1750 a long, narrow passage was hewn through the rock, leading to the theatre, which lies 69 ft. below the level of the street, and this is the entrance at the present day. In 1755 the Accademia Ercolanese was instituted for the investigation of the anti- quities discovered, and under their auspices was published the ‘Antichita d’Ercolano’ in 9 vols. (Napoli, 1757-1792), which caused immense sensation in the learned world. The excavations progressed more favourably under the French kings Joseph Napoleon (1806-8) and Joachim Murat (1808-15). Under the Bourbons operations were suspended till 1828. Many of the most interest- ing objects were excavated and again covered*, thus the theatre , part of the forum with its colonnades, a colonnade (erroneously called a basilica), resembling the building of Eumachia at Pompeii (p. 127), various temples, a large villa, in which were found most (and by far the finest) of the bronzes now in the museum at Naples, as well as the 3000 papyrus-rolls (p. 70), private houses, etc. The later excavations of the Italian govern- ment have as yet attained no great result, though in due time, doubtless, a number of interesting discoveries may confidently be expected, as the mantle of lava has successfully repulsed the ancients in their search for objects of value. From the entrance we are first conducted down a dark flight of more than a hundred steps to the Theatre, of which an accurate idea is not easily formed hy the light of the flickering candle. Owing to the buttresses built to support the rock above, the place rather resembles a profoundly dark subterranean labyrinth. It contained four broad tiers or steps for the chairs of the more dignified spectators, above which were sixteen tiers of seats in six compartments (cunei); between these, seven flights of steps as- cended to a broad corridor, above which were three more tiers of seats. The number of spectators cannot have' exceeded 3000. The orchestra lies 85 ft. below the level of the modern Resina, and is faintly lighted from above through the shaft of the well which was the occasion of the discovery. One inscription records that L. Annins Mammianus Ilufiis erected the theatre, another that 110 Route 6. TORRE DEL GRECO. From Naples Niimlsius, son of Publius, was the architect. On each side of the proscenium are pedestals for honorary statues, with inscriptions. A visit to the buildings brought to light by the Scavi Nuovi of 1828 to 1837, and resumed in 1868, is of far higher interest. We are conducted by the custodian clown the Vicolo di Mare (p. 108) for 4 min. ; the entrance is by a small wooden gate to the left. A street, part of a large private house, and several houses used for trading purposes have been excavated here. They lie 40 ft. below the present surface, and the different layers of the superincumbent lava are readily distinguished. The houses with their fittings and decorations resemble those of Pompeii. The building-material is a yellow tufa from Mte. Somma, of very soft consistency, which accounts for the thickness of the walls. The garden of the principal house, that of the Argus, is one of the most interesting objects. It is enclosed by an arcade of twenty columns and six buttresses. To the right of it is a triclinium with a painting (not now visible) of Mercury before Argus and lo, from which the house derives its name. Towards the sea, the proximity of which at that period is indicated by the rapid descent of the street, are situated magazines, three stories in height, and well preserved. Near Portici we enjoy a fine view from the railway of the Bay of Naples with the Gastello dell’ Ovo and Pizzofalcone, commanded by Camaldoli ; in the background the Capo Miseno and the moun- tains of Ischia. Farther on, to the left, Vesuvius and Resina. The train skirts the coast and traverses the huge lava-stream of 1794, 38 ft. in thickness and 700 yds. in breadth. 71/2 M. Torre del Greco. — Hotels. *Gkand Hot.-Pens. Santa Teeesa, well fitted up and comfortably heated, etc., frequented in winter by foreigners, and during the sea-bathing season by Italians , R. 21/2-7, L. 1 / 2 , A. 3 / 4 , B. V 4 -IV 2 , dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 8-10 fr. (L. & wine extra) ^ Eden Hotel, R. 3-5, B. 2, dej. 3, D. 41/2 fr., well spoken of^ Pension Belvedere, Pension Suisse, pens. 6-7 fr. ^ all in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele; Hotel-Pension dd Vi^suve, in the Villa Vallelung a ^i^ens.Q-Sfr. — Restaurant^ at the tramway-terminus (p. 22). Torre del Greco , a flourishing town with 25,000 inhabitants, stands on the lava-stream of 1631 , which destroyed two-thirds of the older town. The lava-streams of 1737 and 1794 also caused great damage. The earthquake of 1857, and particularly the eruption of 8th Dec., 1861, proved still more destructive. On this last occasion eleven small openings were formed immediately above the town, whence vast showers of ashes were precipitated, while the shore in the vicinity was upheaved to the extent of 3 ft., causing the ruin of many houses. Although the entire base of Vesuvius as far as Torre Annunziata is covered with traces of similar catastrophes, yet the inhabitants appear never to be deterred from rebuilding their dwellings , a circumstance which has given rise to the jesting saying of the Neapolitans, ^Napoli fa i peccati e la Torre li paga\ In June the great popular festival ‘Dei to Pompeii. TOKJIE ANNIJNZIATA. a. Route. Ill Quattro Allari' is aimiially celebrated here, in coinmemoratioii of the abolition of the feudal dominion in 1700. Every April a lar^^e lleet of boats leaves Torre del Greco for the coral-lishery off the coasts of Africa and Sicily, returning in November. The line intersects Torre del Greco (to the right a small har- bour), and then skirts the sea. To the left the monastery of Ca- maldoli della Torre is visible, standing on an isolated volcanic peak at the base of Vesuvius, and thus protected against lava-streams. After passing another stream of lava, the train reaches — 12^2 Torre Annunziata, Citth station, a prosperous town of 17,000 inhab., with a small harbour and an office of the Vesuvius guides {^Agenzia delle Guide del Vesuvio e di Pompei^ Via Ventidue Febbraio, CaseCosco; see p. 112). A beautiful glimpse is disclosed here of the bay of Castellammare with the town, commanded by Monte S. Angelo, the summit of which is crowned by the chapel of S. Michele; beyond it Vico Equense, in the distance Sorrento. 131/2 M. Torre Annunziata, Central station, the junction for the railways from Caserta to Castellammare (p. 10), and from Naples to Gragnano (p. 141) via Castellammare. The Pompeii train now proceeds inland towards the S. E., and on the left the partially overgrown heaps of ashes thrown up by the excavations soon become visible. 15 M, Pompeii, see p. 118. Continuation of the line to Salerno., see R. 10. Highroad from Naples to Pompeii. The Highroad from Naples to Pompeii is also still much frequented, and in cool weather may he recommended as a route as far as Portici and Resina, as the railway-stations at Naples and Portici are inconveni- ently situated. In the hot season the dust is extremely unpleasant. (Carriages take 50 min. from the Piazza del Municipio to Resina, see pp. 22, 108^ tramway to Torre del Greco, see p. 23.) The road, which traverses the busy and bustling E. suburb of Naples, leaves the town near the Gastello del Carmine, skirts the Marinella, and crosses the Sebeto by the Ponte della Maddalena, passing the barracks of the Granili (p. 108) to the right. It then leads along the coast, which, however, is so covered with villas and other houses that the route is more like a long street than a country road. Maccaroni hung out to dry is seen on every side. The first village reached is S. Giovanni a Teduccio, which is adjoined on the left by the small town of La Barra, a favourite summer-resort. We next reach Portici (p. 108) and Resina (p. 108), which stretch along the road for a distance of 2 M. , the boundary between them being immediately beyond the royal palace, through the court of which the road passes. At the beginning of Resina on the left is the office for the Vesuvius guides (see p. 112). On the right, farther on, is the entrance to the excavations of Herculaneum (p. 108), 1 1 2 Route 7. MOUNT VESUVIUS. beyond which the road to Vesuvius diverges to the left (see p. 116). We next pass the chateau of Favorita on the right, with a fine park, now in the possession of the ex-khedive Ismail Pasha (no ad- mission). As far as Torre del Greco (p. 110) the road runs between houses and garden-walls, but farther on it commands an unimpeded view. Torre Annunziata, see p. 111. The drive from Naples to Pompeii takes 2-3 hrs. (carr. and pair 20 fr.). Pompeii, see p. 118. 7. Mount Vesuvius. For an expedition to Vesuvius bright weather is highly desirable. The great majority of travellers avail themselves of the arrangements of Messrs. Thomas Cook tSt Son (p. 30), who convey travellers to the top of the cone and back for 21 fr. each*, that charge including the Drive from Naples to the foot of the cone (4-5 hrs.) and back (21/2 hrs.), the ascent and descent by the Wire-Rope Railway (3 hrs., including stay at the top), the services of the guide, and all gratuities and fees, except for extra conveniences (p. 117). Tickets should be taken the day before^ if they are not used, the price is refunded. The conveyances start from the Piazza dei Martiri at 8.30 or 9 a.m. in winter and at 7 a.m. in summer. Trav- ellers or parties who desire to keep by themselves pay the following rates : 1 pers. 35 fr., 2 pers. 25 fr., 3 or more pers. (the third or fifth on the box- seat) 21 fr. each as above; these may order the carriage to call for them at their hotel at any convenient hour. The carriage-road between the observatory and the lower station of the wire-rope railway having been partly destroyed by the lava-stream of 1895 (see p. 116), communication was suspended for some time, the last part of the way still being passed on horseback till the road will be repaired (no extra charge). — Expeditions af^night, arranged only between April and November, and for parties of not less than five, cost more, and should be carefully arranged in detail beforehand. When Vesuvius is covered with snow. Cook’s excursions are suspended, It is not advisable to drive to Vesuvius in carriages not belonging to Messrs. Cook, for in that case each person pays 15 fr. for the railway ticket alone, besides 5 fr. (exacted also from walkers) for the use of the proprietary carriage-road leading to the lower station (p. 117). A much less expensive hut, of course, more fatiguing way of making the ascent is to avoid the railway altogether, and to ascend on foot or on horseback, either from Resina on the N. side, or from Torre Annunziata or Pompeii on the S. side. There are guide-offices at the two first-named places, where the tariff for guides and horses may be seen (comp. pp. 108, 111). The shameless attacks on the traveller’s purse, once common, have been much mitigated owing to the competition of Messrs. Cook. The charges at present are: guide 5 fr., horse or mule 5 fr., horse boy 2 fr., and fee. It is quite unnecessary to provide a horse for the guide. Ex- press stipulations should be made beforehand that the guide shall receive no more than 5 fr. even for a party and that he shall carry the provisions and conduct the traveller to all the points of interest. The ascent from Pompeii (p. 118), which has not been interrupted by the lava-stream of 1895, has lately come into special favour. Arrangements for it are made by Messrs. Cook and Gaze (p. 30), and also by the hotel-proprietors of Pom- peii. The proprietor of the Diomede Hotel provides carriages to Bosco- trecase (p. 118) and horses and guides thence to the summit (inclusive charge, 12 fr.); the proprietor of the Hotel Suisse charges 7 fr. for horse and guide , and the proprietor of the Albergo del Sole 5 fr. A gratuity to the guide and horse-boy is expected. A good popular account of the volcano is given in Prof. J. Logan Lobley''s ‘Mt. Vesuvius’ (London ; 1889). . V, <1 I HERCULANEUM XtnY.. 'Lopignoy SL / /, ".-rV-f/c6rr ^ "d'T'i* OJUtcgoao JUani ^ssfTrnl^iw' ^allaigpfie^ JTTVIO 4|P3 oC£] 1C ^atvoM" Torzill fTotam ^rmtbio '^y^artiiw Ondno YLcairitaiKL' lorto Wa^n-CT llaa 4 HtdjU^.Xeinpiod’^^ -■^^i\r,V!,-. //^ •- t' r-^7iy^i Massalit/,^. F^t?^ ^ ^ ^r.Tore ^ 540 ,- ,..,■ (ii eB,Lelj>zig. CASTELi 4 A«?'' ^Vpjv.(\^iCiist>)}i^f^^%^ U^orto rivy* f5.§alrnfer<*. yr! imWj P'f^tlL 4 ri 'FormHo J3 Sat. at 2 p.m. (single fare 3 fr. first-class , return available for a week, 5 fr.). — For the British yacht Yoronha., see p. 23. From Sorrento to Capri. Mail Steamer, see p. 150. By Small Boat the passage takes 2-2V2 hrs. (fares, see p. 146). A four-oared boat to Capri and Amalfi costs 30-40 fr., the night being spent at Capri. From Massa Lubrense to Capri, see p. 148. Boat from Capri to Amalfi (4-5 hrs.), with 2 rowers 12, 4 rowers 18, 6 rowers 25 fr. (bargaining necessary). Fine weather is indispensable, but a perfect calm is neither necessary nor desirable. The Marina Grande (p. 153), or chief landing-place , is on the N. side of the island ; when a strong N. wind is blowing, steamers anchor at the Marina Piccola (p. 153) on the S. side. The ascent from the latter can only be made on foot. Hotels in Capri (often very full, so that is advisable to secure rooms beforehand ; comp. p. xviii). On the Marina Grande (names liable to changes) : Hotel du Louvre, recently well spoken of; Grande Bretagne, both close to the quay, with sea-baths, dej. 3 (inch wine), pens. 6 fr.; Bellevue, R., L., & A. 2, B. 3/4, dej. 2V2, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pens. 5-6 fr., also close to the landing-place. — Admirably situated a little to the W. of the landing- place, with terraces: *Grotte Bleue, R., L., & A. 2-3, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 4 (both incl. wine), pens. 6 fr., with sea-baths ; Bristol, similar charges. — Higher still, on the road to Capri: *Schweizerhof, dependance of the Quisisana (see below), same charges; Royal Hot. Berliner Hof, close to the town ; Villa Fiorentino, another dependance of the Quisisana, close by. — In the Town of Capri: ^Quisisana (omnibus at the quay), on the way to the Certosa (see p. .153), R. 3, L. 3/4^ A. 1, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 5 fr.; *Pagano, on the road to Quisisana, frequented by Germans, plain, pens. 6, for less than three days 7 fr. (numerous reminiscences of artist-guests; the garden contains a handsome palm-tree); f H otel de France, to the left of the Piazza, on the way to the Tiberio, with S. aspect and small garden, R., L., & A. 2, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pens. 6 fr. (less than three days 7 , from June to Dec. 51/2-61/2 fr.); *Faraglioni, in a side- street to the right of the road to the Tiberio, near the Hot. de France, R. 21/2, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 31/2 (both incl. wine), pens, for a week or more 6-7 fr. daily. — Tiberio (with restaurant), Corso Tiberio, unpretending. Cafes-Restaurants. CoLf4 Hidigeigei.^ good and moderate (German beer, groceries, paper, etc.; agency for furnished rooms; propr. Morgano)'., Caff^ al Vermouth di Torino., in the Piazza, a favourite resort ; Tiberio., see above; Trattoria di Carmela, see p. 154; Gambrinus., on the road to Anacapri, with view in two directions. — Confectioner: Pasticceria Califano^ in the Piazza (English spoken). — Furnished Apartments numerous and cheap (from 30 fr. per month, including breakfast) both in Capri and Ana- capri. — Physicians; Dr. J. Cerio., Dr. Giov. Masotino., speak English and French; physicians at Anacapri, see p. 155. Carriages. From the Marina: to the town of Capri with one horse 11/4 fr., there and back, with stay of 1 hr., 2 fr.; with two horses, 21/2 and 31/2 fr.; to Anacapri, with one horse, 21/2 fr., there and back, 31/2 fr., with two horses, 4 and 5 fr. From the town of Capri to Anacapri, with one horse, I1/2 fr., there and back, 21/2 fr., with two horses, 21/2 and 31/2 fr. Donkey from the Marina to the town of Capri 1, Horse I1/4 fr.; in the reverse direction 2/4 or 1 fr.; to the Villa di Tiberio and back 21/2 or 3 fr.; to Anacapri and back 21/2 and 3 fr. ; to the top of the Solaro 41/2 fr. ; from the town to Anacapri and back II/2 and 2 fr. — Guides are quite unnecessary unless time is very limited. A boy to show the way may be engaged for several hours for 1/2-I fr. 152 Route 9. CAPRI. History. Boats (bargaining necessary) abont IV 2 fr. per bour ^ trip to the Blue Grotto, see p. 166; ‘giro’, or tonr of the island (p. 157), 6-8 fr. To Sorrento, see p. 146; the hotels Quisisana and Pagano possess in common a very comfortable boat for 8 pers., which is hired for the trip to Sorrento with six rowers for 14 fr. ; boats with four rowers for smaller parties 8fr.. — Boat from the Marina Piccola^ on the S. side ol the island (see p. 153), to the Grotta dell’ Arsenale or the Green Grotto and round the E. end of the island to the Marina, 4-5 fr.; parties, about 2 fr. each person. English Church Service in winter: All Saints’ Church; Chaplain, Rev. E. H. Morton., M. A. Distances in Capri. From either Marina to the town, 20-30 min.; from the Piazza in the town to the Villa di Tiherio 3/4 hr . from the Piazza to the Punta Tragara., 20 min. ; thence by the E. coast to the Arco Naiurale 50 min.; thence to the Villa of Tiberius., 50 min. The whole circuit from the Piazza to the Punta Tragara, Arco Naturale, and the Villa, and back to the Piazza takes thus about 3hrs., besides halts. The visit to Anacapri and Monte Solaro takes 3-4 hrs., there and back. All the different walks (upwards of 40) are described in Dr. Alan Walters's little Handbook to Capri (Naples, Furchheim, 1893). Caprif the ancient Capreae., is a small, mountainous island of oblong form. Its picturesque outline forms one of the most charming points in the view of the Bay of Naples. The highest point is the MonteSolaro on the W. side, 1920 ft. above the sea-level ; towards the E. huge cliffs, about 900 ft. in height, rise abruptly from the sea. The island, which contains about 5600 inhab. and the two small towns of Capri and Anacapri.^ yields fruit, oil, and excellent red and white wines in abundance. The indigenous flora comprises 800 species. The inhabitants support themselves partly by the pro- duction of oil and wine and by fishing, but by far the largest source of income is afforded by the strangers who visit the island yearly to the number of 30,000. The men frequently emigrate to South America, but generally return to Capri again. The women, who wear a tasteful veil of black lace , employ themselves mainly with weaving. Interesting popular festivals are held on the feast of S. Costanzo , the patron-saint of the island (May 14th), on the day of S. Antonio (June 13th; at Anacapri), and on the 7th and 8th Sept, (in honour of the Virgin; on the Tiherio and Solaro). The island first came into notice under Augustus, who showed a great partiality for it, and founded palaces, baths, and aqueducts here. After Ti- berius had surrendered the reins of government to Sejanus and retired to Capri (A.D. 27), he erected twelve villas, in honour of the twelve gods, in the principal parts of the island, the largest of which was the Villa Jovis (Tacit., Ann. iv. 67). He remained here almost uninterruptedly till his death in 37, even after the fall of Sejanus in 31. Exaggerated accounts are given of the cruelty and profligacy of the emperor, even towards the close of his career. The tranquillity and inaccessibility of the island, as well as the geniality of the climate, were the attractions which induced him to spend so many years in it. Considerable remains of the buildings of Tiberius are still extant. In 1803 , during the Napoleonic wars , Capri was captured by the English under Sir Sidney Smith, fortified, and con- verted into a miniature Gibraltar. Sir Hudson Lowe was afterwards the commandant. In Oct., 1808, however, the island was recaptured by the French under Lamarque by a brilliant coup-de-main. During the last 20-30 years Capri has become one of the chief attrac- tions to visitors to the Bay of Naples, not only in spring and autumn but also in summer, when many permanent foreign residents of Naples^ take up their temporary abode here. The island, indeed, is not seen in its Situation. CAPRI. 9. Route* 153 full beauty except in summer. Capri owes the purity of its air, for which it has been celebrated from antiquity, to its free exposure to the sea- breezes. On the other hand its position to windward of the rain-bringing breezes produces a deficiency of moisture in the air, and in periods of drought the abundant dust is a serious inconvenience, aggravated in the neighbourhood of the Piccola Marina by the presence of lime-kilns. The only protection worthy of the name against the wind is afforded by Monte Solaro and its S. and S.W. spurs. The supply of drinking-water is limited and of doubtful origin, but a new aqueduct from the Monte Solaro is said to be under contemplation. The walks in the island are all more or less steep, with the solitary exception of the level road to the Punta Tragara. Anacapri and the Marina Grande can be regarded only as sum- mer-resorts. From the Marina Grande , on the N. side of the island, where there are several hotels (p. 151), two routes ascend to the small town of Capri. Both are destitute of shade and are far from pleasant in the middle of the day. The shorter, hut steeper path to the left (E.) ascends in steps. The winding carriage-road to the right (W.) passes S. Costanzo.^ one of the oldest churches in S. Italy, with antique columns. It is a relic of the old town, abandoned in the 15th cent, on account of repeated inroads of pirates. Only a few other ruins recall the existence of this town, which occupied the site of the Marina. Capri (460 ft.), the capital of the island, with 3400 inhab., lies on the saddle which connects the E. heights of the island (Lo Capo) with the western (Mte. Solaro), and is commanded by two lower hills (8. Michele and Castiglione), the first crowned with an- cient ruins, the second with a dilapidated castle. The road from the Marina Grande unites with that from Anacapri, and shortly afterwards comes to an end in the small Piazza , with the Municipio , the post and telegraph office , and the chemist’s. A flight of steps ascends to the church of S. Stefano. A small collection of paintings and sketches by artists living in Capri may be seen in the town (adm. 25 c.). — The route to the Marina Piccola is as follows : from the Piazza we follow the road to Anacapri for 7 min. , descend some steps to the right by the last house on the right, pass under the road by the arch to the left, and descend the stony path to the shore (I /4 hr.), where there are some fishers’ huts (wine). To reach the Castiglione (boy as guide and to obtain tbe consent of the owner), we ascend from the Piazza by the steps leading to the church (see above) and enter a vaulted passage to the right, leading to the wall of the fortress. Beyond the church of S. Teresa we pass through another vaulted passage to an iron gate and continue to the right to a second gate (marked ‘private’), where we obtain the key of the castle-tower. Splendid view of Capri and the Piccola Marina. Practically the same view is conimanded by a platform surrounded with a parapet, to which a path leads under the castle from the first- mentioned gate in 20 minutes. The Orotta del Castiglione., on the S. side, is reached by a fatiguing series of stone steps. — For the ascent of the S. Michele a permesso must be obtained from its owner, Principe Caracciolo, who lives in the Villa Catarina, adjoining the Hotel Quisisana (easily obtained through the land- lord). The entrance is beside the little church of La Croc^ on the way to the Tiberio. We here turn to the right and follow an ancient road, which formerly led to a Villa of Tiberius on the top of the hill. Extensive sub- 154 Jioute 9. CAPRI. Punta Tragara structures and vaults still exist below the vineyards. Magnificent view of the Marina Grande, the Solaro , the Gulf of Capri, and the Peninsula of Sorrento. At the foot of the S. Michele is another stald,ctite cavern; the keeper demands 1-2 fr. for torches, but a bargain should be made. Leaving the Piazza by a vaulted passage beyond the flight of steps ascending to the church of S. Stefand , then turning to the right, passing the Hotel Pagano, turning to the left again just be- fore reaching the Hotel Quisisana (the path straight on leads to the Certosa^ founded in 1363, now a military prison), and skirting the substantial Roman masonry of Le Camerelle (probably connected with the construction of a road through the valley), we are led by a path which ascends slightly to the left about 400 yds. from the Quisi- sana passing the villa of Herr Alters^ the painter, to the (10 min. more) *Punta Tragara (^Trattoria di Carmela, unpretending), the S.E. promontory. This point commands a picturesque view of Capri and the S. coast, with three precipitous cliffs called the Faraglioni (380 ft.). On the summit of II Monacone (‘Great Monk’), farther to the E., are remains of a Roman tomb, and near the Punta are the remains of a Roman house exhumed in 1885. A path leads bence to the Arco Naturale. From the Punta Tragara we descend the steps to the right of the ‘Villa Tragara’, and follow the good Footpath (stone seats at intervals) along the slope, enjoying "Views of the Faraglioni and of the Polyphemus rock. The path , proceeding some- times by flights of steps, undulates round the Telegrafo or Tujoro Grande^ a hill with an old optic telegraph and the' remains of a villa of Tiberius on the top. At the gorge descending on the N. from this hill towards the sea , we turn inland , and in 50 min. from the Punta, at a group of houses, reach the path descending on the other side of the valley to the Arco Naturale (p. 155). The view of the E. coast from this path is still finer than that from the arch itself. The N.E. promontory , called Lo Capo, is supposed to bave been tbe site of tbe Villa Jovis, to wbicb Tiberius retired for nine months after tbe fall of Sejanus ( 3/4 br. from tbe town of Capri). Tbe path cannot be mistaken. From tbe Piazza we pass to tbe left through tbe archway bearing tbe sign of tbe Hotel de France and follow first tbe Corso di Tiberio, tbe narrow main street of Capri , and then a paved track to (8 min.) a new bouse with a triple veranda and marble tablets on tbe corners indicating tbe way: to tbe right ‘Via Matermania’ (p. 155), to tbe left ‘Via Ti- berio\ We follow tbe latter route, between tbe bouse and tbe picturesque little church of S. Michele, continue at tbe same level or slightly ascending, with a view of tbe chapel at tbe Villa of Tiberius above and of tbe old lighthouse, and at length skirt the slope to tbe right. On tbe right, a few minutes before reaching tbe last bill, we pass a clean tavern (good Capri per bottle) called ‘Salto di Tiberio’, after tbe rock .(7Ab ft. above tbe sea) from wbicb, according to a purely mythical story, tbe tyrant pre- cipitated his victims. A projecting platform with a railing affords a view of tbe sea below. A good idea of tbe height of these rocks may be gained by dropping a stone over tbe railing and noting tbe time it takes to fall into tbe sea. — To tbe right are tbe remains of Anncapri. CAPRI. 9. Route, 155 an ancient Lighthouse (View). The Tarantella dancers who nsnally present themselves here expect V 2 “l their exhibition. After a slight ascent we reach the '^Villa di Tiberio (pronounc- ed Timberio by the natives), part of the extensive ruins of which are now used as a cow-house. They consist of a number of vault- ed chambers and corridors , the uses of which cannot now be as- certained. On the highest point is the small chapel of 8. Maria del Soccorso (1050 ft.), with the cell of a hermit, who offers wine and for a trifling donation allows the visitor to inscribe his ‘testimonium pr£esenti£e’. This point commands a noble prospect of the Island and the blue sea, of the barren Punta di Campanella opposite, and the two bays ; even Paestum and the Ponza Islands (to the N.W.) are visible in clear weather. In returning we take the route m'lrked ‘Via Matermania’ at the house with the marble tablets (see p. 154; 20 min. from the Salto di Tiberio), and follow the same direction as the telegraph wires , past gardens and isolated houses. After 10 min., in front of a group of houses, we reach the upper end of the gorge mentioned above, in which ends the path from the Punta Tragara round the E. side of the Telegrafo. To the left in this valley, 8 min. farther on, and reached by a path which is rather rough towards the end, rises the *Arco Naturale , a magnificent natural archway in the rock, where we obtain a striking view of the imposing and rugged cliffs. A visit to the Orotta di Mitromania,^ to which 180 steps descend, may be combined with this excursion (we retrace our steps for 4 min. , then descend to the left to the steps, passing through some small gardens). This grotto contained a shrine of Mithras, the ‘unconquered god of the sun’, whose cult was introduced to Rome from the East, and in the time of the later emperors spread through all the provinces of the empire. Roman remains may be seen in the cave. — Returning to the above-mentioned group of houses, we may thence reach the Punta Tragara by the foot- path mentioned on p. 154. From Capri to Anacapri (1/2 hr.’s drive ; br. on foot). A road in long windings hewn in the rock, constructed in 1874, now supersedes the flight of over 700 steps (recently restored) which used to form the chief approach to the higher parts of the island. This road commands beautiful views. Above it rise the ruins of the medisBval Gastello di Barbarossa, named after the pirate who destroyed it in the 16th century. Anacapri. — Hotels. Paradiso, in the Piazza, near the church, R. I-IV2 fr., B. 60c., dej. 2, D. 2 (both inch wine), pens. 5 fr., with garden and view, unpretending; Hotel London, a new house, with garden and view, pens. 5 fr. — Cafes. Bitter,, new, with view-terrace, German beer and wines; Bottiglieria Massimino,, also a pension; these two near the entrance of the town; Herm. Moll,, with garden-terrace, wine and Munich beer. — Furnished Rooms in several houses. Physicians, Dr. Green; Dr, Cuomo; Dr. Axel Munthe,, a Swede. Anacapri (880 ft.) , the second little town in the island , with 2200 inhab., is scattered over the lofty plain which slopes towards the W., and has recently become a favourite summer-residence for German visitors and others. The first house on the road, to the left , outside the village , is the Villa Molaro , where furnished apartments may be obtained. On the right side of the street, in the village, adjoining the house of the wine-merchant Moll, is the 156 Route 9. CAPRI. Monte Solar 0 , church of S. Michele, containing a mosaic pavement of the 17th cen- tury. — Adjoining Anacapri is the pleasant village of Caprile. A beautiful walk may be taken to the ''Migliera. We follow the lane to the E. of the Paradiso Hotel for 250 paces, towards Monte Solaro, the base of which is skirted by a good path leading in Vz hr. to the S. verge of the plateau (fine view). About 2(XJ paces higher up, the view is open as far as the Faraglioni. On the return we enjoy a good survey of the pictur- esque villages of Anacapri and Caprile, whose houses have almost an Ori- ental appearance. — There are Roman ruins at the village of Damecuta, on the N.W. side of the plateau, where a villa of Tiberius once stood. The ‘"^Ascent of Monte Solaeo (1 hr.) is recommended to toler- able walkers. The route is easily found. We quit the road im- mediately beyond the garden of the Villa Molaro (p. 155), and follow the lane on the left (as we come from Capri) past the Villa Massimino to the Villa Giulia, (Here is the junction of a path from the Bottiglieria Massimino, see p. 155.) We turn to the left and ascend for 30 paces to the right, by the wall of the villa-garden, to the path along the slope, which we follow towards the S.E. Farther on we pass through a hollow and ascend by steps supported by masonry to (Y 2 ^ saddle with a shrine of the Madonna (left). From this point we may proceed to the right direct to the summit, which we reach after a fatiguing ascent of 15-20 min. over debris. Or we may go on in a straight direction for 5 min. and then turn to the left to (2 min.) the white wall of the Hermitage ft.), where a projecting platform commands a most picturesque view of the town of Capri and the whole of the beautiful island. From the Her- mitage it also takes 18-20 min. to reach the summit of the *Monte Solaro (1920 ft.), which rises abruptly from the sea, on the S. side of the island, and is crowned by a ruined castle. The view is superb, embracing Naples with the whole of its bay, as well as that of Salerno as far as Psestum. Towards the N. the Bay of Gaeta is visible, and towards the W. the group of the Ponza Islands. The spectator also obtains a survey of the chain of the Apennines, bound- ing the Campanian plain in a wide curve from Terracina, the Abruzzi, the MateseMts. (p. 10), and a long vista of sea and land extend- ing to the S. to the hills of Calabria. Capri itself and the pen- insula of Sorrento lie in prominent relief at the spectator’s feet. The charm of this view is at its highest by moonlight or at sunrise. Blub Grotto. — A visit to tbe Blue Grotto from the Marina at Capri occupies 13/4-2 brs. If tbe wind blows strongly from tbe E. or R., access to tbe grotto is impossible. Tbe skiffs are not allowed to take more than three passengers. Tbe official tariff fixes tbe charges as follows : а. Boat from the steamer into tbe grotto and back, IV 4 fr. each person ^ б. From the Bancbina di Capri (Marina Grande) and back, 1 pers. 2V4, 2 pers. 33 / 4 , 3 pers. 41/4 fr., 5 or more pers. I 1/2 fr. each. The hire of tbe small skifl* entering tbe grotta is included in these charges (‘Nei suddetti prezzi e compreso il noleggio del piccolo battello per Fentrata alia Grotta Azzurra, che percio andra a carico dei barcajuoli’). Tbe stay in tbe grotto is limited to 1/4 kr., and an extra charge of 30 c. is made for every 74 hr. additional. When a boat is hired at the Marina the boatman should at once be referred to the tariff, as it is a favourite practice to endeavour Blue Orotto. CAPRI. ,9. Route. t57 to make the traveller pay, in addition to the tariff-price, the charge of 11/4 fr. per head, required by the manager at the grotto , when the large boat is exchanged for the .skiffs entering the grotto. That extra charge is to be paid, as stated above, by the boatman from the Marina. Single travellers are usually taken direct from the Marina in small boats, so that no change is necessary. Most travellers, however, must he prepared to bestow considerable gratuities. The Blue Grotto is situated on the N. side of the island, about 11/4 M. from the landing-place of Capri. The row along the base of the precipitous rocky shore is exceedingly beautiful ; the sur- face of the water swarms with gaily-coloured sea-stars and jelly-fish. In 1/4 hr. we reach the ruins of the Baths of Tiberius., where a frag- ment of an ancient wall in the water is to be seen (locally known as ‘palazzo a mare’), and in 1/2 niore we arrive at the entrance of the **Blue Grotto (QxQtta Azzurra ) which is scarcely 3 ft. in height. Visitors must here leave the larger boat and enter one of the small skiffs that are usually waiting at midday. In the in- terior the roof rises to a height of 41 ft. ; the water is 8 fathoms deep. Length of the grotto 175ft., greatest width 100ft. The effect of the blue refraction of the light on every object is indescribable, and at first completely dazzles the eye. The best light is between 11 and 1 o’clock; summer is the best season. Objects in the water assume a beautiful silvery appearance. A boy usually offers to bathe in order to show this effect, and is sufficiently rewarded with 1 fr.; failing an agreement, the visitor may make the experiment with his own arm. Near the middle of the grotto, to the right, is a kind of landing-place, leading to a passage with broken steps, but closed at the upper end, once probably an approach from the land to the grotto, which was perhaps connected with the villa of Tiberius at Damecuta (p. 156). The grotto, which was known to the ancients, fell into oblivion in the middle ages, but since 1826, when it was re-discovered, it has justly been a favourite attraction. Anacapri is reached by a tolerable path , beginning near the Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto is the most celebrated of the caverns with which the rocky shores of Capri abound, but some of the others are also well worth visiting. The *Giiio, or Voyage round the Island, occupies 3-4 hrs. (boats, see p. 151). Steering from the Marina towards the E., we first reach a charming spot on the beach, called by the boatmen Caterla, Close by is the spacious Orotta del Bove Marino. Farther on are two curiously-shaped rocks in the sea, called II Fucile (Hhe musket’) and La Ricotta (‘the whey- milk cheese’). Beyond Capo Tiberio we visit the Orotta delle Sta- lattite or Orotta Bianca., with its stalactite formations. The most striking part of the trip is at the Faraglioni (p. 154), which rise majestically from the water. The central cliff is undermined by an imposing archway, through which the boat passes, but not vi- sible from the land. Rounding the Punta Tragara (p. 154), we next pass the Marina Piccola (p. 153) and in 25 min. more reach 1 58 Route 10. VALLE DI POMPEI. the Orotta Verde^ at the base of the Monte Solaro, a cavern of a beautiful emerald-green colour, and the most interesting after the Blue Grotto (best light about noon). The voyage hence round the W. side of the island, past the lighthouse on the S.W. promontory and some old British fortifications, to the Blue Grotto is less attractive , but this cavern may now be visited as an appropriate termination to the excursion (in which case a skiff for the grotto should be previously ordered to meet the traveller). 10. The Gulf of Salerno. Psestum. Amalfi. Comp. Map., p. 162. The Bay of Salerno cannot indeed compete with the Bay of Naples ^ towards the S. its shores are flat and monotonous ^ but the N. side, where the mountains of the Sorrentine peninsula rise abruptly some thousands of feet from the sea, is full of beauty and grandeur. Here are situated the towns of Salerno and Amalfi , conspicuous in the pages of mediaeval history, and still containing a few monuments of their former greatness. Farther S., in a barren, desolate situation, are the temples of Paestum, usually the extreme point of the Italian peninsula visited by northern travellers. All these recall the golden period of Greek history and art more forcibly than any other localities in Italy. This route may conveniently be combined with the preceding (p. 141) as follows. First Day: Morning-train to Cava dei Tirreni; excursion to Gorpo di Cava (not recommended in cold weather)^ in the afternoon to Salerno. — Second Day: Morning-train to Paestum; return to Salerno and drive to Amalfi (in this case the carr. must he ordered beforehand; if the return be made to Vietri, a carr. is always to be found at the station). — Third Day: Amalfi; excursion to Ravello. — Fourth Day: Drive across the hills to Sorrento, — Fifth Day: By boat at noon to Capri. — Sixth Day : Back to Naples by steamer in the afternoon. It need scarcely be added that most of these places, especially Amalfi and Capri., will repay a longer visit. It is advisable to secure rooms in advance by letter. Railway from Naples to Cava dei Tirreni., 28 M., in 11 / 4 - 21/4 hrs. ; fares 5 fr. 10, 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 30 c. ; to Salerno., 34 M., in IV 2 - 21/2 hrs.; fares 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 30 , 2 fr. 75 c. (Vietri is the station for Amalfi) ; to Battipaglia., 45 M., in 2 - 33/4 hrs.; fares 8 fr. 25, 5 fr. 85, 3 fr. 75 c. From Naples to Pompeii^ 15 M., see R. 6. The train, after quitting tbe Bay of Naples, traverses the fertile plain of the Sarno. Maize and tobacco are extensively cultivated here , and cotton is also grown. 15 M. Valle di Pompei (Hot. -Restaurant Nuova Pom- pei, in the piazza, dej. lV2"^j D. 272-372 both incl. wine; Trattoria Lamberti, at the station), a community that has suddenly sprung up within the last twenty years around the church of S. Maria del Rosario, with its conspicuous coloured dome. The church con- tains a miraculous image of the Virgin, which is visited annually by 100,000 pilgrims. — 17 M. !il ’Jlbrtoi'Uy twnuiu SMalWo ^^xxVareii ^y^^ilMonte^ 3\ '•’^^'HtC^dhitimo ( Cc)T^>ai5j7 ’ •^.^KAiioclo MtsJmi Cj^(de*' :aiiO' Cybb^jano /, > P.dclAl' '^T.dello Sanjjariello Uxi^Froto ’ti^Twne^ T^diBoMa Japo diCouca Poxto di Salerno iiiitffPiano i’Mtia}' :^ jJCaoo Tianniolo ^^^dirwtXL apo d’Orso tatiBiS 88 aaiAtri Gcogra^ih^Aiistalt t-oil $ALERH0„E8 0Ll, PAESTUM. Scala nel 1:286.000. A^ljre^aziojii : C°',C.- Coscl,- CY - ColU-.T^'.F.' rf =TdlJanp.-. rr«= Torre. PA^ESTy Nl. J.*28G00 ^ 600 70( Salerno. VMSTVM. 10. Route. 163 by Archbishop Colonna; the statue and the I’rescoes are modern, and the mosaic in the dome has been restored. To the left is the monument of Arch- bishop Carafa (d. 1G68), adorned with a relief from Pecstum : Rape of Pro- serpine. Farther on in the same aisle are tombs of a bishop and a knight, antique sarcophagi with Bacchanalian representations. — Here, beside an ancient relief representing a ship discharging its cargo, steps descend to the richly decorated Crypt., which is said to contain the remains of the Evangelist St. Matthew, brought from the East in 930 (statue). In front of a side-altar is the stump of a column, on which three saints are said to have been beheaded. In S. Lorenzo are some frescoes (damaged), ascribed to Andrea (^Sabhatini) of Salerno., the most eminent Renaissance painter in S. Italy. Authentic works by this master, whose style reflects the influence of Raphael, may he seen in the churches of S. Giorgio (Madonna with saints and donors, dated 1523 ; 2nd altar on the right) and S. Agostino (Madonna with two saints, 2nd altar to the left; the SS. Augustine and Paul at the sides of the high-altar are school-pieces). Both these churches are situated between the Pre- fettura and the cathedral. On the hill (900 ft.) lie the ruins of the ancient Castle of the Lombard princes, which was taken by Robert Guiscard after a siege of eight months. The view repays the ascent. Passing the cathedral, we take the ‘Salita del Gastello’ and turn to the right a little above the Career! (prison) ; farther up, the path becomes steep ; at the top, 3/4 hr., is a cottage (fee of a few soldi.) A pleasant drive (2 hrs., carr.' 4-5 fr.; railway in progress) may be taken from Salerno through the Irno Valley to S. Severino (p. 173), with which a visit to Monte Vergine (p. 173) may be combined. On the way we pass Fratte., a large Swiss colony, with extensive manufactories, and Baronisi., the scene of Fra Diavolo’s capture. The train as it proceeds affords a charming view of the bay and Capri to the right, and of the mountains to the left. — 39 M. Ponte- cagnano; 44 M. Montecorvino. 45 Y 2 M. Battipaglia, junction of the railway to Psestum and Pisciotta, see p. 164. Paestum. The expedition to Psestum is most conveniently made from Cava dei Tirreni (p. 159; special carriages from Cava to Psestum by the express- trains during the season) or Salerno., where the night before should be spent. It may also be accomplished from Naples in a single day, but the long and fatiguing railway- journey is a drawback in this case. In the interval between the arrival of the train from Naples (about noon) and the depart- ure of the next train in the opposite direction, the solemn stillness which usually hangs over the temples is rudely disturbed by numerous tourists. Those who desire to see the ruins under more favourable conditions, to examine details, and to make the circuit of the ancient town-wall, must either arrive by an earlier train or depart by a later one, it being ad- visable in the latter case to secure night-quarters at Cava or Salerno be- foreband. — Admission to the temples on week-days 1 fr.. Sun. free (ticket-office near the temple of Neptune). During October and Novem- ber, and from February till May, there is a fair buffet at the station (dej. with wine, 2 fr.). 11 * 164 Route 10. P^STUM. History. Railway Fares. From Naples to Papstum, express - fares 11 fr. 55, 8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 30 c., ordinary fares 10 fr. 70, 7 fr. 50, 4 fr. 85 c., return-tickets 16 fr. 5, 11 fr. 30, 7 fr. 30 c. (on holidays, 12 fr. 5, 8 fr. 55, 6 fr. 5 c.). From Cava dei Tirreni to Psestum , express 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 75 c., ordinary 5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 55 c., return-ticket, 8 fr. 65, 6 fr. 10, 3 fr. FO c. — From Salerno to Psestum, express 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 20 c., ordinary 4 fr. 55, 3 fr. 20. 1 fr. 10 c.^ return-ticket from Salerno to Batti- paglia, 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 80, 1 fr. 65 c. Beturn-tickets are not issued between Salerno and Peestum, but may be obtained to Ogliastro (p. 219), the next station after Paesfum (fare 8 fr., 5 fr. 60 c.); travellers have also time to secure one from Battipaglia to Peestum (3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 55, 1 fr. 65 c.). Battipaglia (see p. 163) is reached by railway from Cava dei Tirreni in 1-1 V 2 from Salerno in ^l2-^U Naples in 2^4-83/4 hrs. — The Railway from Battipaglia to Pjestum (13M., in 3/4- 1 hr.) traverses marshy plains, enlivened only by a few herds of buffaloes and other cattle. Agriculture, however, has been making some pro- gress here of late years, and the malaria is diminishing in conse- quence. — Beyond ( 81/2 M.) S. Nicola Varco the line crosses the impetuous river Sele, the ancient Silarus. Before the railway was built, this used to be considered the most dangerous part of the road, especially in 1860-70, when the neighbourhood was haunted by the daring brigand Manzi. — 872 M. Alhanella ; 11 M. Capaccio. — Shortly before reaching (13 M.) Paestum (Ital. Pesto), we catch sight of the corner of the old town-wall and of the temples behind. Continuation of the railway from Passtum, via Paola and Pizzo., to Reggio., see p. 220. Paestum, according to Strabo, was founded by Greeks from Sybaris about the year B.C. 600, and its ancient name of Poseidonia (city of Neptune) sufficiently indicates its Greek origin. In the 4th cent, the town was in possession of the Lucanians, who oppressed the inhabit- ants ; and at that period the citizens used to celebrate a festival an- nually in memory of their Greek origin and their former prosperity. After the defeat of Pyrrhus , Poseidonia fell into the hands of the Romans, who in B.C. 273 founded the colony of Paestum here. In the war against Hannibal the town remained faithful to Rome. At a later period it gradually fell to decay, and as early as the reign of Augustus it was notorious for its malarious air. Christianity took root here at an early period. When the Saracens devastated Paestum in the 9th cent., the inhabitants fled with their bishop to the neigh- bouring heights, and there founded Capaccio VeccJiio. In the 11th cent, the deserted town was despoiled by Robert Guiscard of its monuments and sculptures, and remained in this desolate condition for many centuries , till in modern times attention was again directed to the antiquities still remaining. Those who appreciate the simple majesty of Greek architecture should endeavour, if possible, before quitting Naples, to pay a visit to the temples at Paestum, which are, with the single exception of those at Athens, the finest existing monuments of the kind. The railway - station is situated immediately to the E. of the Temple of Neptune. P^.STUM. 10. Route. 165 ancient town. In the neighhonrhood are the remains of an aqueduct and fragments of ancient paving. We enter the town, which was surrounded by massive walls, through the Porta della Sirena^ so called from the small and scarcely recognizable relief of a siren on the outer keystone of the archway. On the inner keystone is a re- lief of a dolphin. Proceeding thence along the wall enclosing the Villa Salati we reach the highroad in 8 min. , which traverses the an- cient town from N. to S. Here suddenly opens the view of the ruins : to the left are the temple of Neptune and the so-called Basilica, and to the right the temple of Ceres. The keeper awaits the visitors at the temple of Neptune (adm., see p. 163). The largest and most beautiful of the three temples is the so- called **Temple of Neptune, 190 ft. in length, and 84 ft. in width. At each end are six massive, fluted Doric columns, on each side twelve, in all thirty-six well-preserved columns 28 ft. high and 7^2 It- diameter. In the interior of the Celia are two series of seven columns each (about 6 ft. in diameter), with a second row of smaller columns above, which supported the roof. On the S. side 5, and on the N. side 3 of these small columns are still standing. The ^tone is a kind of travertine, to which age has imparted a mellow tone. contains fossil reeds and aquatic plants. The whole was once covered Ytith stucco, in order to conceal the imperfections of the stone. The proportions of the symmetrically tapering columns, whether viewed from the vicinity or from a distance, are perfect. This temple, as its whole character betokens , is one of the most ancient specimens of Greek art (end of the 6 th or beginning of the 5th cent. B.O.). Photographs and models of it are frequently seen (comp. Introd., p. xxvii). A stone basis in front of the E. facade probably belonged to a large sacrificial altar. A little to the S. rises the second temple, the so-called *Basi- lica (a misnomer), at one time considered to be of more recent origin than the temple of Neptune, but now regarded as older. To the dispassionate visitor, especially when viewing the buildings from a little distance, it will seem almost impossible that this larger though infinitely less effective edifice could ever have been erected in face of the impressive temple of Neptune , though the reverse order is probable enough. The basilica is 180 ft. in length, and 80 ft. in width; its fifty columns are each 6^/2 ft. in diameter, but their proportions and colouring are less imposing than those of the temple of Neptune, though their detail (at the neck) is more elaborate. At each end are nine columns, and on each side sixteen, all of travertine stone. The shafts taper unusually rapidly towards the top; the capitals are of an archaic bulging form. A series of columns in the centre divided the temple into two halves, so that it was dedicated to two gods. In front of these temples probably extended the Forum of the an- cient town, basements for altars or statues being still distinguishable. 1 66 Route 10. AMALFI. Gulf of Farther to the N. stands the small ^Temple of Ceres, or of Vesta according to others, with six columns at each end and eleven on each side. Length 105, width 45 ft. ; columns 5 ft. in diameter, tapering upwards in straight lines. This temple stands midway be- tween the others in point of date, and is another fine example of the simple and majestic Greek style. The temples are overgrown with a luxuriant crop of ferns and acanthus, enlivened by crickets, lizards, and a few snakes. Between the Temple of Ceres and that of Neptune a few frag- ments of Roman building have been discovered, a Theatre and Amphitheatre^ it is believed. The latter is intersected by the road. A Roman Temple was also discovered here in 1830. Concealed among the underwood near it are two metopse, adorned with high- reliefs. These remains, however, are insignificant compared with the ruins above mentioned. — Of the ‘rose-gardens’ of Paestum , so much extolled by Roman poets, no traces now exist. Outside the N. gate, the so-called Porta Aurea, was a Street of Tombs. Several of those which have been opened contained Greek weapons and the fine mural paintings mentioned at p. 58. A walk on the beach (25 minutes) is attractive ; either by the road leading from the station or outside the Porta Aurea. On the re- turn the visitor should diverge to the right and follow the ancient *Town-Walls, about 3 M. in circumference, formed of blocks of travertine and preserved almost entire. The finest general *View of the temples is obtained from the terrace of the tower to the E. of the Porta della Giustizia, on the S. side of, the town-wall. Amalfi. Comp. Map^ p. 162. From Salerno to Amalfi, about I 2 V 2 M., carriage by the highroad in 2V2-3 hrs. From Vietri, about 91/2 or 10 M., carriage in 2 - 2 V 2 hrs. — From Sorrento (p. 171), about 15 M. by the new road approaching completion, carriage in about 4 hrs. — Both roads are recommended also to walkers. Between Naples and Amalfi service is maintained from Oct. to March by the steamer of the Navigazione Gmerale Italiana plying once a week from Naples to Messina (leaving the Immacolatella at Naples on Thurs. at 5 p.m., reaching Amalfi at 9 p.m. ; leaving Amalfi on the return-voyage on Wed. at 6 a.m., and reaching Naples at 10 a.m ). For the British yacht Yoronha, see p. 23. The ** Highroad from Salerno to Amalfi, completed in 1852, is nearly the whole way hewn in the cliffs of the coast, and frequently supported by galleries and vast viaducts 100-500 ft. above the sea-level. The slopes are generally somewhat bare, but are in many places laid out in terraces, and planted with vines, olives, lemons, and fruit-trees. The massive square watch-towers, erected under Charles V. as a protection against pirates, are now partly converted into dwellings. From Salerno the road ascends, and near Vietri (p. 161) crosses SaUrno. AMALFI. 10. Route. 167 the valley by a stone brid^^e. To the left in the sea rise two conical rocks, / Due FrateLli. On the hill to the right is Raito. The next place (d’/'iM.) is the picturesquely situated fishing- village of Cetara, extending, along the bottom of a narrow ravine ; it is frequently mentioned in the history of the invasions of the Sara- cens, and was the first place where they settled. The road now ascends to the Capo Tumolo^ whence a beautiful prospect of the coast on both sides is enjoyed, and descends thence by the Capo d’Orso^ where the fleet of Charles Y. was defeated by Filippino Doria. On the right opens the valley of S. Maria, in which a foot- path ascends to the ruined monastery of Camaldoli delV Avvocata, founded in 1485. We soon reach (8 M.) the small town of — Maiori^ with terraced lemon-plantations and the ancient church of S. Maria a Mare, at the mouth of the Val Tramontij which is ascended by a carriage-road to Chiunzi (p. 158; splendid view of the Bay of Naples). On the right in this valley lies the ancient ruined castle of 8. Nicola , of which the Piccolomini were the last proprietors. On the coast near Maiori is the interesting grotto of Pandona, resembling the Blue Grotto at Capri. In a picturesque sheltered situation above the highroad, halfway to Minori, is the former Hotel Torre (now closed). Minori, a clean little place, with lemon-gardens, most beau- tifully situated, once the arsenal of Amalfi, lies at the mouth of the sometimes turbulent Reginolo. — The road to Ravello mentioned at p. 169, diverges to the right near Atrani. Atrani lies at the entrance to a ravine, on each side of which the houses rise picturesquely. The church of 8. 8alvatore di Biretto, on the Marina, contains handsome bronze doors , of Byzan- tine workmanship of the 11th cent., monuments of the Doges of Amalfi, and others of the Saracenic period. Midnight mass is per- formed here on Christmas Eve, when the town and hills are illumin- ated. Above Atrani is the village of Ponfone, halfway to which is a house in which Masaniello is said to have been born (but comp, p. 39). A lofty rocky eminence , bearing the extensive ruins of the Castello Pontone, separates Atrani from (2^/^ M.) Amalfi. Amalfi. — Hotels (frequently crowded in tlie season; rooms should be secured in advance). *Gr. Albergo Cappuccini-Convento , in the old Capuchin monastery (p. 169) above the town, with fine view, frequented by English and Americans, R., L., & A. 5V2, B. iy2 , dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 12 fr. (for a stay of a week or more; L. extra); *Cappuccini alla Marina (same proprietors), at the harbour, R., L., & A. 5, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 8 fr. (L. extra). — *Albergo della Luna, formerly a monastery, with picturesque cloisters, at the E. end of the town, M. from the harbour, R., L., & A. 21/2, B. IV4, dej. 2V2, D. 4, pens. 8-9 fr. (all incl. wine): — "Alb. d’Italia, near the harbour, R., L., & A. IV2 fr., pens. 6-T fr., wine included. — Saccardi, Piazza del Duomo, unpretending. Boats IV2-2 fr. per hour (an expedition to the Grotta Pandona nea. Maiori takes about 2^/2 hrs. there and back; the Grotta di S. Andrer lies only 10-15 min. from Amalfi); to Praiano with 4 rowers, IV2 hra 168 Route 10. AMALFI. Gulf of 8-10 fr. are demanded, but a bargain may be made for less; to Capri in about 6 hrs., with 4-6 rowers 20-30 fr.; to Salerno with 2 rowers 6-8 fr. Carriages may be obtained from a hirer residing immediately beyond the Piazza on the way to the mill-valley (p. 169); carr. and pair to Ra- vello, 5-6 fr.. fee extra; to the Punta Campana near Praiano (p. 171), two- horse carr. 6, one-horse 3 fr. — Donkey, I-IV4 fr. per hr. — Guide un- necessary. — The beggars, especially the children, are more importunate at Amalfi than at any other spot near Naples. English Church Service ; Chaplain, Rev. A. W. Ilumphreps^ M. A. Amalfi^ a small but lively town with 7000 inhab., whose chief occupations are the manufacture of paper, soap, and maccaroni, is situated at the entrance of a deep ravine, surrounded by imposing mountains and rocks of the most picturesque forms. In the early part of the middle ages it was a prosperous seaport, rivalling Pisa and Genoa, and numbered 50,000 inhabitants. Amalfi is mentioned for the first time in the 6th cent., when it enjoyed the protection of the Eastern emperors ; it afterwards became an independent state, under the presidency of a ‘doge’. The town was continually at variance with the neighbouring princes of Salerno, and even defied the Norman sovereigns of Naples, till King Roger reduced the place in 1131. United with the royal forces, Amalfi carried on a war with the Pisans ; and it was during this struggle that the celebrated MS. of the Pandects of Justinian, now one of the principal treasures of the Laurentian library at Florence, fell into the hands of the Pisans. The place then became subject to the kings of the houses of Anjou and Aragon. In the 12th cent, the sea began gradually to undermine the lower part of the town, and a ter- rible inundation in 1343 proved still more disastrous. After that period Amalfi steadily declined. The town boasts of having given birth to Flavio Gioja^ who is said to have invented the compass here in 1302. The Tavole Amalfitaae were recognised for centuries as the maritime law of the Mediterranean. From the Marina a short street leads past the Albergo dei Oappuccini to the small Piazza, on the right side of which rises the cathedral, approached by a broad flight of 60 steps. The ’^’Cattedkale S. Andrea is still, in spite of modern alter- ations, an interesting structure of the 11th cent., in the Lombard Norman style. The portal, built of alternate courses of black and white, stone , was re-erected in 1865. The fa(jade has also been recently restored. The campanile, adorned with columns from Pses- tum, dates from 1276. The Bronze Doors^ executed by Byzantine masters in the 11th cent., bear two inscriptions in silver letters, one of which runs thus : ‘Hoc opus fieri jussit pro redemptione animse suae Pantaleo filius Mauri de Pantaleone de Mauro de Maurone Comite’. The "Interior consists of a nave and two aisles, with a series of chapels on each side. Behind the chapels on the N. side is a third aisle, really a small independent church, connected with the N. aisle by several entrances. In the first chapel to the left is an ancient vase of porphyry, formerly used as a font. Near this, to the left, in the first passage to the outer aisle, are two ancient sarcophagi with sculptures, unfortunately damaged, supposed to represent the Rape of Proserpine, and the Nuptials of Peieus and Thetis (according to others , the marriage of Theseus and Ariadne) ; a third bears the inscription : ‘Hie intus homo verus certus op- tumus recumbo Publius Octavius Rufus decurio’. — The choir contains ancient columns decorated with mosaic from Psestum. — From the S. aisle a flight of steps descends to the Crypt (generally open ; when closed, verger 20 c.), where the body of the apostle St. Andrew is said to have i^alerno. AMALFI. 10. Route. 1 6^^ reposed since the I3tli cent., when it was brought hitlier from Constan- tinople. The relics, from which an oily matter (manna di S. Andrea) of miraculous power is said to exude , attract numerous devotees. The colossal ^Statue of the saint by Michael Angelo Maccarino was presented by Philip III. of Spain. The altar was executed from a design by Domenico Fontana. — The Cloisters, entered, from the left aisle, contain a relief of the Twelve Apostles of the 14th cent., and a Madonna of more recent date, besides remains of several ancient columns from Psestum which supported the portal before the restoration in 1865 (see p. 168). — Solemn processions on St. Andrew’s Day (Nov. 30th). The church of S. Maria Dolorata , 300 yds. to the N. of tlie cathedral, also contains ancient columns from Psestum. On the steep slope above Amalfi on the W. the old Capuchin Monastery is conspicuous. It was founded in 1212 by Cardinal Pietro Gapuano for the Cistercians, but came into possession of the Capuchins in 1583, and is now fitted up as a hotel. The building, which stands in the hollow of a rock which rises abruptly from the sea to a height of 230 ft., contains fine cloisters, a charming veran- dah, and magnificent points of view. A large grotto to the left was formerly used as a Calvary. It is most conveniently reached by a flight of steps ascending from the new road, V 4 hr. from the harbour. On the slopes above the town, to the E., appears the arcade of the Cemetery of Amalfi. The solitary round tower on the hill above belongs to the Castello Pont one (p. 167}. A cool and pleasant Walk may be taken in the narrow Valle de' Molini, or mill-valley, at the back of Amalfi, which contains 18 paper-mills driven by the brook. (From the Piazza we follow the main street, which ends in 4 min.; we then go straight on through the Porta dell’ Ospedale, a covered passage opposite the fountain.) On the right rise lofty cliffs. Perhaps the most picturesque point is at the (1 hr.) Molino Rovinato. — To Amalfi belong the villages of Pogerola., Pastina^ Lone., Vettica Minore, and Tovere, all situated to the W. of the town in a district yielding wine , oil, and fruit in abundance. The coast is overgrown with the aloe and cactus opuntia. — A pleasant excursion may also be made via Pastina and Yettica Minore to the old fort of S. Lazzaro , with a splendid view of the entire coast. 'From Amalfi to Ravello, an ascent of I-IV 2 (carr. p. 167), a most attractive excursion, affording beautiful views, and interest- ing also to the student of art, particularly if as yet unacquainted with Moorish architecture. The new road begins at the Villa Proto ( 3/4 M. from the Alb. Luna at Amalfi), to the E. of Atrani (p. 167), ascends to the left in long windings, and then enters the beautiful Valley of Atrani , the bottom of which forms a continuous orange- grove. It follows the valley until three mills are reached, and then again ascends to the right in windings (road to Scala to the left, at the third bend ; see p. 170) to Ravello. Walkers have an alternative route as follows, although the longer carriage-road is in many respects preferable. Quitting the road at Atrani, we ascend the broad flight of steps on the left beside the church of 8. 170 Route 10. RAVELLO. Gulf of Maria Maddalena (7 min. from the Alb. della Luna) and cross the little Largo Maddalena. We then ascend the steps on the right and continue straight on, through vaulted lanes and up steep flights of stairs (or in some cases descending) to the valley of Atrani , where we rejoin the carriage-road. Beyond the three mills footpaths again cut off the windings of the road. Ravello. — Hotels. ^Hot.-Pens. Palumbo, in the old episcopal palace, with a splendid view, R. 3-5, L. 1 / 2 , B. IV 2 , d(^j. 3, D. 4-5, pens. 8-9 fr. 5 Alb. del Toro, in the former Palazzo d’Afflitto, R., L., & A. IV 2 fr., B. 60 c., dej. 1 fr. 80 c. , D. 21/2 (both incl. wine), pens. incl. wine 7 fr. (for a week or more 6 fr.), well spoken of. Ravello (iibO ft. ^ , founded under the Normans, possessed, in the zenith of its prosperity under the house of Anjou in the 13th cent., thirteen churches, four monasteries, numerous palaces, and 36,000 inhabitants (now 2000 only). The Romanesque ^Cathedral (St. Pantaleone) , founded in the 11th cent., is almost entirely modernised. The bronze doors, by Barisanus of Trani (1179), with numerous figures of saints, are opened from the inside by the verger; on the outside they are concealed by wooden doors. The magnificent Ambo , in marble, embellished with mosaics, was presented in 1272; it rests on six columns supported by lions; inscription, ‘Nicolaus de Fogia mar- morarius hoc opus fecit’. The fine bust on the arch is said to be a portrait of Sigilgaita Rufolo. Opposite to it is the pulpit, in a simpler style, with a representation of Jonah being swallowed by the whale. In the choir is the episcopal throne, adorned with mosaics. The Cappella di S. Pantaleone (left) contains the blood of the saint. In the Sacristy are a beautiful but sadly damaged Madonna, a St. Sebastian , and an Assumption of Mary Magdalen , said to be by Andrea da Salerno. Turning to the left on leaving the cathedral , passing the foun- tain, and walking for 100 paces between garden-walls, we reach the entrance to the ^Palazzo Rufalo (visitors ring at the second gateway on the right), now the property of a Mrs. Reid. This edi- fice, built in the Saracenic style and dating from the 12th cent., was once occupied by Pope Adrian IV., King Charles II., and Robert the Wise. In the centre is a small, fantastic court with a colon- nade. One of the gateways has a Saracenic dome. A verandah in the garden (1115 ft. above the sea-level) commands a delightful yi^w (gardener 1/2 Returning to the piazza and ascending a lane to the left of the cathedral, we come in 5 min. to the church of S. Giovanni del Toro^ a modernised basilica borne by columns , and containing a fine old pulpit. The adjacent garden affords a fine view of the valley of Minori, of the small town of that name at its mouth, and of the more distant Maiori and the Capo d’Orso beyond it (fee of a few soldi; refreshments to be had). — S. Maria Immacolata is a picturesque little church, also Romanesque. Another point commanding a very extensive view is the *Bel~ Salerno. POSITANO. 10. Route. 171 vedere Cemhrone. Passing in front of tlie catliedral, towards the S., we go straight through a gateway, pass (8 min.) tlie portal of the cliurch of aS. Chiara to the right , reach a door on the left (visitors knock), and traverse the garden to the belvedere. The excursion to Amalfi may be pleasantly extended by 1-2 hrs. by visiting Scala (p. 169 •, CaCfe della Rosa), a village with a large church containing the tombs of the Coppola family; the church of SS. Annunziata, an old basilica with ten large ancient columns and some old frescoes (to the right the ruined castle of Scaletla)'., and Pontone. From the last we descend (steep) to the mill-valley. This is an interesting, but fatiguing walk. A donkey should not be taken farther than the church of SS. Annunziata, as riding is scarcely practicable beyond it. **From Amalfi to Sorrento (carriages, see pp. 168, 146 ; best light in the morning). — The continuation of the coast-road to the W. of Amalfi was completed in autumn 1895 except the last portion (about 550 yds.) and is open to pedestrians. This road vies in beauty with the E. section. It leads below the Capuchin monastery and pierces a small headland by means of a short tunnel. Near Vettica Minore., high above which is a nunnery, it is joined by the path (mentioned on p. 144) from Agerola, a visit to which is a pleasant excursion from Amalfi. The road then rounds the Capo di Conca^ skirts the precipitous cliffs of "^Furore., and reaches the Punta Cam- pana before (about 5 M. from Amalfi) Praiano^ where we descend, walk 8-10 minutes, and then go on by carriage ordered by telegraph from Sorrento (p. 145 ; drive to Sorrento, about 3 hrs.). Formerly travellers with luggage proceeded by rowing-boat (p. 167) along the picturesque coast to (1-1 V2 Marina della Praia above which the road leads. At the beginning of Praiano, near the spot where we join the road, is the * Stella d'Oro Inn (R. 2, B. 1, dej. 21/2, both inch wine, pens. 6 fr.j dearer in spring), well spoken of. Prajano and Vettica Mag giore.^ which adjoins it beyond Capo Sottile^ are noted for their abundant wine and oil. The road skirts the coast, passing thQ Punta S. Pietro (chapel) and the ravine of the Anenzo, descending from Monte S. Angelo. High above is Montepertuso (p. 144). In 1 hr. (4f 2 M. from the Marina della Praia) carriages reach — Positano (^Albergo Rcma., R. 2, dej. 2, D. 23^4, pens. 6 fr.), picturesquely situated on the mountain-slopes, with 3000 inhab., an important harbour under the Anjou dynasty. Many of the natives leave their homes and travel through Southern Italy as hawkers. They assemble at their native place annually to celebrate their principal church-festival (15th Aug. ; excursion-steamer from Naples), and finally return thither in later life to spend their declining years. The road skirts the highest houses of the town, descends again to the coast, along which it proceeds for about 2t/2 M., and then begins to ascend inland. Fine view of the Isles of the Sirens, usually called I Gain., which were fortified in the middle ages. The highest point of the road (a drive of fully 3/4 hr. from Positano, a walk of IV4" lt/2 hr.) commands a magnificent *View of the Bay of Naples. The 172 Route 7 7. NOLA. descent througli luxuriant orange and lemon groves to Meta is pictur- esque, thougli distant views are seldom obtained. At the Madonna del Lauro at Meta (p. 145), IOY2 M. or 21/2 lirs’. drive from Praiano, we reach the road from Castellammare to Sorrento, at a point nearly 3 M. (^2 s drive) from Sorrento (p. 145). 11. From Naples to Benevento via Nola and Avellino. From Cancello, a station on the Naples and Rome railway, a branch- line runs to Nola, and skirts the Apennines to Avellino. From Naples to Nola in I-I 72 hr. (fares 3 fr. 10, 1 fr. 95 c., 1 fr.)'; to Avellino in 3-4 hrs. (fares 8fr. 60, 5 fr. 40, 2 fr. 70 c.) ^ \.o Benevento in 4i/2-5 hrs. (fares 12 fr., 7 fr. 80, 4 fr. 25 c.). — Railway from Naples to Baiano via Nola, see below. From Naples to Cancello^ 13 M., see p. 10. 201/2 M. Nola ( Campidoglio ; Corona di Ferro), with 12,000 in- hab., is a very ancient city, celebrated as one of the cradles of the plastic art. The magnificent vases with shining black glazing and skilfully drawn red figures, which form the principal ornaments of the museums of Naples and of other places, were made here. Numerous coins of Nola with Greek inscriptions have also been found. Nola was almost the only Campanian city that successfully resisted the attacks of Hannibal after the battle of Cannae, B.C. 216 ; and the following year its inhabitants under the command of the brave M. Marcellus succeeded in repulsing the invader. It seems to have been about as important as Pompeii. The Em- peror Augustus died here on 19th Aug., A.D. 14, in his 76th year, in the same house and apartment where his father Octavius had breathed his last. In the 5th cent., St. Paulinus, an accom- plished poet and Bishop of Nola (b. at Bordeaux in 354, d. 431), is said to have invented church-bells at this Campanian town, whence the word ‘campana’ is derived. On 26th .Tune a great festival is celebrated in his honour ; eight lofty and gaily adorned towers of light wood-work (so-called ‘Lilies’) and a ship bearing the image of the saint are drawn through the streets in procession. Near the main railway-station is a circular temple, built of white marble, with a statue of St. Felix. The interior of the dome was destroyed by fire in 1870. The square in front of the temple is embellished with four antique figures in relief. — Farther on, the first street to the left leads to the Piazza Giordano Bruno, with a monument to the memory of the free-thinker Giordano Bruno, born at Nola in the middle of the 16th cent., who on 17th Feb., 1600, terminated his eventful career at the stake in Rome. Giovanni Merliano, the sculptor of Naples, known as Giovanni da Nola, was also born at Nola. About 1/2 M. to the N.E. of the town is situated the Seminary, where several Latin inscriptions and the so-called Cippus Abellanus, a remarkable inscription in the Oscan language found near Abella, are preserved. Above the seminary (5 min.) is the Franciscan mon- astery of S. Angelo, commanding a view of the fertile and luxuriant plain; to the left is Monte Somma, b.ehind which Vesuvius is con- AVELLINO. II. Ro'ule. 173 ccalcd ; to the right rise the niouiitaiiis ol' Maddaloni. A little to the E. is a Capuchin monastery, above Avhlch the ruined castle of Cicala picturesquely crowns an eminence. Nola is connected with Naples by a Local Railway as well as by the main line (16 V2 M., in 1-1 V4 hr.^ fares 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 55, 80 c. ; return-tickets at a reduction of 25 per cent, available till the first train of the follow- ing day or for three days on the eve of a festival). The train starts at Naples from the Nola-Baiano Station (PI. H, 2, 3^ p. 49). The line tra- verses Campania, offering numerous picturesque views. Stations: 1^/4 M. Poggioreale; 6 M. Casalnuovo; 8 M. Pomigliano d'‘Arco; 10 M. Castello di Cisterna; IOV2M. Brusciano; 11 'M.. Mariglianella; I2V2M. Marigliano (car- riages to Somma, see p. 118)^ 13 M. S. Vitaliano-Casaferro; I31/2 M. Scis- ciano; 15^/2 M. Saviano; I61/2 M. Nola. — Beyond Nola the railway goes on to : 171/2 M. Cimitile.^ I8V2M. Camposano.^ 19 M. Cicciano.^ 20^/2 M. lioccarainola., 23 M. Avella-Sperone., and (23V2 M.) Baiano. From Baiano carriages ply to Avellino and back in connection with the 1st, 2nd, and 5th trains from and to Naples (through-fares 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 10 c. ; return T fr. 20, 5 fr. 25, 3 fr. 65 c.). — Avella is the classic Abella., near which are exten- sive plantations of hazel-nut, the ‘nuces Avellanse’ of antiquity. The aqueduct of the new Neapolitan water-works (p. 32) passes in the vicinity. 251/2 M. Palma (Albergo della Posta), picturesquely situated on the slopes of the Apennines opposite Ottaiano , with 7500 inhab. and an ancient chateau, is commanded by an extensive ruined castle on a height. • 301/2 M. Sarno (Albergo di Francesca Pinto)., a town with 16,500 inhab., lies on the Sarno, which flows hence towards Scafati and Pompeii. Above it towers a ruined stronghold of Count Francesco Coppola, who took an important part in the conspiracy against Fer- dinand of Aragon (1485). The view now becomes more limited. Tunnel. 35 M. Codola; branch-line to Nocera, see p. 159. — 37 M. Castel San Giorgio. — 401/2 M. Mercato San Severino {Inn, poor). The principal church contains the tombs of Tommaso da San Severino, high-constable of the kingdom of Naples in 1353, and of several princes of Salerno. A road leads from Mercato S. Severino to Salerno (about 10 M.) ; railway in progress, comp. p. 163. The line now turns to the N. 431/2 M. Montoro ; 521/2 M. So- lofra; 541/2 M. Serino. 59 m. Avellino (Albergo Centrale , well spoken of, obliging landlord, who provides guides for Mte. Vergine; Albergo delle Puglie), with 23,000 inhab., the capital of a province, is the junc- tion of a branch-line to PaternopoU (17 M., in about II/2 hr.), to be continued to Rocchetta S. Antonio and Melfl (p. 194). The name is derived from the ancient Abellinum, the ruins of which are 21/2 M. distant, near the village of Atripalda. From Avellino we may visit Monte Vergine, a famous resort of pil- grims (donkey 4-5 fr. and fee; provisions should be brought from Avel- lino). There are two routes to the convent. 1. We follow the Road to the W. end of the town and then ascend the bye-road to the right. At (V2 M.) the cross-roads we proceed to the left to (1 M.) Loreto, where abbot and older monks live in a large octagonal building designed by Vanvitelli. The convent archives and ‘spezieria’ are also here. — 2. Foot- 174 Route 1 1 . PRATA PRATOLA. PATH. We proceed from the Municipio through the Via Mancini to the prison and on between the gymnasium (left) and the barracks (right) to a villa , the gateway of which we enter. The path to the left, by the brook, ascends through gardens and fields to Loreto. Thence to Mer- cogliano , where donkeys may be procured (P/^ fr.), 1/4 hr. more. A track leading to the right here at the Piazza Michele Santangelo, and soon cross- ing the road, leads to the stony bridle-path (partly provided with steps) and through wood to (2 hrs.) the convent of Monte Vergine, founded in 1119 on the ruins of a temple of Cybele, some remains of which are shown in the convent. The Church contains a miraculous picture of the Virgin, and the tombs of Catherine of Valois, who caused the picture to be brought hither, and of her son Louis of Taranto, second husband of Johanna I. Their effigies repose on a Roman sarcophagus. On the left side of the high-altar is the chapel erected for himself by King Man- fred, which, when that monarch fell at Benevento, was given by Charles of Anjou to one of his French attendants. At Whitsuntide (comp. p. 28) and on Sept. 7th about 70-80,000 pilgrims visit the convent, many of the penitents ascending barefoot and crawling on their hands and knees from the church-door to the altar. From the convent we may ascend to the ( 1/2 hr.) top of the mountain (4290 ft.), commanding a magnificent survey of the bays and the exten- sive mountainous district. 64^2 Prata-Pratola ; 66 Y 2 Tufo, — 68 M. AUavilla- Ir- pino. — 70 M. Chianche; 76 M. Benevento Porta Rufina. — 77^/2 M. Benevento (p, 204). II. EASTERN AND SOUTHERN DISTRICTS OE S. ITALY. 12. From Terni to Solmona through the Ahriizzi .... 176 Ascent of the Gran Sasso d’ltalia from Aquila or from Teramo 179 13. From Rome to Castellammare Adriatico via Avezzano and Solmona 181 From Solmona to Isernia-Caianello 184 14. From Avezzano to Roccasecca (Naples) 186 15. From Ancona to Foggia (Brindisi) . ' 188 From S. Benedetto to Ascoli Piceno 189 From Giulianova to Teramo 189 From Termoli to Benevento via Campobasso .... 191 From Foggia to Manfredonia 192 From Foggia to Lucera 193 From Foggia to Rionero via Rocchetta S. Antonio . . 194 From Rocchetta S. Antonio to Gioia del Colle . . . 194 16. From Foggia to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula 196 From Barletta to Bari via Andria 197 From Bari to Taranto 200 From Zollino to Gallipoli 203 17. From Naples to Foggia (Ancona) 204 18. From Naples to Brindisi via Metaponto and Taranto . 207 From Sicignano to Lagonegro and thence to Spezzano 207 19. From (Naples) Metaponto to Reggio 214 20. From Sihari to Cosenza 218 21. From Naples via Battipaglia to Reggio 220 From S. Eufemia to Marcellinara 221 22. From Naples to Palermo by Sea 224 The E. and S.E. parts of Italy are much less picturesque than the W. coast, as well as less replete with historical interest. But they are not devoid of attraction, and have been endowed by nature with a considerable share of the gifts she has so bounteously lavished on other parts of Italy. The Apennines , rising at a short distance from the coast, send forth a series of parallel ramifications, forming a corresponding number of par- allel valleys, whose communication with the external world is maintained by means of the coast to which they descend. To the S. of Ancona, from about the 43rd to the 42nd degree of N. latitude, stretch the Central Apennines^ embracing the three provinces of the Abruzzi (Chieti, Teramo, and Aquila) , the ancient Samnium. They culminate in the Montagna della Sibilla (8120 ft.), the Oran JSasso d'' Italia (9585 ft.), and the Maiella (9170 ft.) , groups which are connected by continuous ranges , and which are clad with snow down to the month of July. These mountains abound in fine scenery (BR. 12-14) , but until recently they have been well-nigh inaccessible owing to the defectiveness of the means of communication and the badness of the inns. The mountains to the S. of 42® N. lat., receding gradually from the sea, are called the Neapolitan Apennines. The only spur which projects into the sea is the Mte. Gargano (3465 ft.), which, however, is separated from the chief range by a considerable plain. Beyond 176 Route 12. RIETI. From Terni this stretches the Apulian plain, an extensive tract of pasture and arable land, bounded by an undulating district on the S. About the 41st degree of N. latitude the Apennines divide^ the main chain, extending towards the S., forms the peninsula of Calabria-, the lower chain, to the E., that of Apulia. The Coast (Provinces of Ancona^ the Abruzzi^ CapitanatUy Terra di Bari^ and Terra Otranto) is flat and monotonous, and poorly provided with harbours. The villages and towns are generally situated on the heights and conspicuous at a great distance. Farther to the S., however, in the ancient Apulia and Calabria (p. 200), the coast scenery improves, and there are three important harbours, those oi Bari., Brindisi., and Otranto. Of the Southern Provinces, the former Basilicata (now the province of Potenza), the ancient Lucania., is beautiful only in the W., whereas Calabria is replete with striking scenery. The shores of the Gulf of Taranto , whose waters bound both of these provinces , were once studded with numerous flourishing Greek colonies, and the whole district bore the name of Magna Graecia; but the traces of that prosperous epoch are now scanty. The period of decline began with the Roman supremacy. The art and culture of the middle ages never penetrated to these remote regions. The fields once extolled by Sophocles for their richness and fertility are now sought for in vain, and the malaria exercises its dismal sway throughout the whole of this neglected district. The soil belongs to the nobility , who let it to a miserably poor and ignorant class of farmers. The custom of carrying weapons is universally prevalent here (comp., however, p. xiii), and brigandage was carried on until the year 1870. The villages are generally wretched and filthy beyond description. No one should therefore attempt to explore the remoter parts of this country unless provided with letters of introduction to some of the principal inhabitants. Information may usually be best obtained in the chemists’ shops (farmacista). Tolerable inns are to be found only in the larger towns. In smaller localities the traveller should insist upon having a room to himself, or he may have to share his bedroom with other travellers, according to the custom of the country. The hotel-omnibuses generally carry passengers even when the latter are not staying in the hotel. The more remote mountain-villages are connected with the railway-stations and with each other by ‘Giornaliere'' on diligences plying once daily or oftener. These vehicles, though cramped and djrty, are still in many cases the most convenient means of conveyance, unless a donkey (‘vettura’, 3 fr. daily) can be obtained. 12. Prom Terni to Solmona through the Abruzzi. 102 M. Railway in 6V2-7 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 55 c., 13 fr., 8 fr. 35 c.). Terni^ and thence via (p ^/2 M.) Stroncone and (10 M.) Marmore, the station for the fine waterfall of the Velino, to (11 M.) Piediluco, see BaedekePs Central Italy. Beyond Piediluco the line follows the course of the Velino, crossing the winding stream several times. I 6 Y 2 M. Qreccio; 2 OI /2 M. Contigliano. 25^2 M. Rieti {^Alh. Orazi or Croce Bianca, very fair), on the right bank of the Velino (16,800 inhab.), the ancient Reate, was once the capital of the Sabines, but no traces of the ancient city remain save a few inscriptions preserved in the town-hall. The large Cathedral, dating from 1456, contains a S. Barbara by Bernini, and the monument of Isabella Alfani by Thorvaldsen. Fine view in front of the edifice. Excursions may be made from Rieti to the picturesque mountain scenery of the Central Apennines, though not unattended by difficulties on account of the indifferent character of the inns and roads. Thus to Leonessa, 15^2 M. to Solmona. AQUILA. 12. Route. 177 distant, erected in a lofty mountain ravine about the year 1252^ thence to (12^2 M.) Gascia^ said to be the ancient seat of the Casci, or aborigines of the district; 7V2 M. farther to Norcia^ the ancient Nursia^ nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1857, 'with walls of great antiquity, birthplace of Vespasia Pollia, mother of the emperor Vespasian, whose family monu- ments were situated at Vespasia^ 7^/2 M. distant. St. Benedict and his sister Scholastica were also natives of Kursia. From Rieti the line proceeds through a picturesque district in the valley of the Velino. The mountains are clothed with forest, and their lower slopes with vineyards and olives. 31 M. Citta- ducale, founded in 1308 by Robert, Duke of Calabria, was formerly the frontier -town of the Neapolitan dominions. 861/2 M. Castel S. Angelo. About 1 M. to the W. are the Sulphur Baths of Paterno^ the ancient Aquae Cutiliaej which were regularly frequented by Vespasian, who died here in A.D. 79. The Pozzo di Latignano, the ancient Lacus Cutiliae^ was regarded by Varro as the central point (‘umbilicus’) of Italy. 401/2 M. Antrodoco-Borgo Velino. Antrodoco, the Lat. Intero- crea, beautifully situated on the Velino, at a little distance from the station, is commanded on the N. E. by the lofty Monte Calvo ; on the hill is the ruined castle of the Vitelli. — Several tunnels are traversed before we reach Aquila. — 451/2 M. Rocca di Fondi; 491/2 M. Rocca di Corno ; 53 M. Sella di Corno. — We next reach the watershed between thp Tyrrhenian Sea and the Adriatic. The railway then descends into the valley of the Aterno. — 551/2 M. Vigliano; 591/2 M. Sassa-Tornimparte, on the site of the ancient Foruli. 62 M. Aquila. — Tbe station (Rail. Rev«5taurant, unpretending) lies more than 1/2 M. from the Porta Romana; omnibus up to the town 50 c., down to the station (leaving the piazza 1 hr. before the trains start) 40 c. Hotels. Sole, Piazza del Palazzo, with a frequented trattoria ; Italia, Corso Vitt. Emanuele; Aquila Neka, near the Piazza del Duomo; R. at each 1-2 fr. Cafe. Gran Gaffk Ristorante^ in the arcade, at the corner of the Corso Vitt. Emanuele and the Via Romana. Carriages at Berardrs^ Corso Vitt. Emanuele, and Morone''s, adjoining the Alb. del Sole; carr. with two horses to Paganica (p. 180) 6 fr., to Assergi 10 fr. — Post Office, in the Piazza del Palazzo. Aquila^ or Aquila degli Abruzzij founded by Frederick II. about 1240 as a check on papal encroachments, destroyed by Manfred in 1259, and rebuilt by Charles I., maintained itself as an almost entirely independent republic, supported by the free peasantry of the district, until it was finally subdued by the Spaniards in 1521. In point of constitutional history, industry, and art it oc- cupied a unique position. It is now the prosperous capital of the province of the same name, with 18,500 inhab., spacious streets, handsome palaces, and churches with interesting facades. It enjoys a pure and healthy atmosphere owing to its lofty situation (2360 ft.), and is consequently a favourite summer-resort of the Italians. Lace- making occupies many of the women ] and the saffron grown in the Baedeker. Italy III. 12th Edition. 12 178 Route 1 2. AQUTLA. From Terni vicinity of the town has a high reputation. To the N.E. is the Gran Sasso d’ Italia (p. 180), which rises abruptly on this side. The main streets of Aquila are the ViaRomaua^ running to the S.E. from the Porta Romana, and the Corso Vittorio Emanuele 11., beginning at the Porta di Napoli, to the S. On the former lies the Piazza del Palazzo, and on the latter the Piazza del Duomo, at no great distance from each other. The small Piazza dei Quattro Can- toni at the intersection of these two streets is the busiest point in the town. Cafd, in the arcade, see p. 177. In the continuation of the Via Romana (at this point called Via Principe Umberto) we cross the Corso to the E. and follow the Via S. Bernardino straight on to the church of S. Bernardino di Siena. The ^Fa^ade was executed with great artistic taste in 1525-42 by Cola delV Amatrice. In the interior, on the right, is the *Mon- ument of the saint, decorated with arabesques and sculpture, exe- cuted by Silvestro da Arsicola in 1505. A fine marble tomb near the high-altar is by the same artist. The interesting wooden statue of Pompeo delV Aquila dates from the 16th century. The 1st Chapel on the right contains a Coronation of the Virgin and a Re- surrection by Della Robbia. From S. Bernardino we descend to the piazza, follow the Via Fortebraccio straight on to the (7 min.) Porta Bazzano, and continue outside the gate to the (7 min.) monastery of S. Maria di Colle- MAGGio (in the popular dialect Collemezzo). The Romanesque *Fa- ^ade , inlaid with red and white marble, consists of three portals and three corresponding rose-windows. Contiguous to the church is an ancient and remarkably small clock-tower. Interior gaudily modernised. To the left is the Chapel of Celestine V. (keys at the Municipio), containing his tomb (d. 1296), a work in the Renais- sance style. His life and acts and those of other saints are repre- sented in a series of fantastic pictures by the Celestinian monk Ruter, a pupil of Rubens. — We now return through the new street, which leads from the church straight to the Porta Colle- maggio and the S. part of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (6 min.). We follow the Corso to the right, back towards the town. The third and fourth turnings on the left lead to a small piazza in which rises the little church of S. Marco, with a Romanesque facade. The Vicolo di Bazzano diverging to the right from the Corso brings us to the church of S. Giusta, also with a Romanesque facade. We return to the Corso, which skirts the E. side of the Piazza del Duomo. On the W. side of the square rises the Cattedrale (S. Massimo), founded in the 13th cent, and, after frequent injuries from earthquakes, largely rebuilt in the 18th century. It contains an interesting silver processional cross of 1483. Turning to the right past the cathedral, we see to our left the Palazzo Dragonetti (formerly de Torres) containing a picture-gallery with an ad- mirable ^Portrait of Cardinal Torres hy Domenichino ; Stoning of to Solmona. AQUILA. /2. Route. 179 8 t. Stephen by the same master, on copper; Kiicharist, by Titian., on marble. — Farther on arc the cliurches of S. Marciano and S. Maria di Roio, both with Romanesque facades. 15oside the latter is the Palazzo Persiciietti, with a collection of paintings by old masters and other works of art. Farther up the Corso, beyond the Piazza del Duomo, on the left, is the handsome Town Hall, which contains, in the passage and on the walls of the staircase, a valuable collection of Roman in- scriptions. On the upper floor is a picture-gallery in several rooms (apply to one of the officials). The Sala dei Gonfaloni contains several interesting paintings of the old Aquilan school ; in another room are numerous examples of Rater., the animal-painter (see p. 178); in the Sala del Consiglio are portraits of prominent natives of Aquila in the 13-17th cent.; and yet another room contains some unimportant antiquities, MSS. of the 15th cent., and good miniatures. The third and fourth turnings to the left from the Corso beyond the Piazza dei Quattro Cantoni lead to S. Maria di Paganica^ with a Romanesque facade and side-portal. The third and fourth turn- ings to the right lead to S, Maria del Carmine, with a Romanesque facade and an old painting above the door. At the upper end of the Corso lies the little Piazza Regina Mar- gherita, from which the Yia Garibaldi diverges to the left and the Yia del Gastello to the right. At the other end of the Yia Garibaldi stands the church of S. Silvestro, with Romanesque fa(^ade and side- portal, rebuilt after an earthquake in the 18th century. A little to the E. is the early-Renaissance church of S. Maria della Miseri- cordia, adorned on the outside with paintings of 1545. Farther on, beside the hospital, is a small church with a Romanesque fagade and a curious painted portal, shewing the Madonna and saints in the tympanum, with praying angels above (15th cent.). If we follow the Yia del Gastello to the right (not through the gate) from the Piazza Regina Margherita, we reach the Citadel, a massive square edifice with low towers, constructed by the Spaniards in 1543, and surrounded by a moat. This point affords the best *Yiew of the Gran Sasso, the town, and the mountainous environs. (Application for admission must be made to an officer.) Outside the Porta del Gastello is the (^4 hr.) interesting early- Renaissance burial church of the Madonna del Soccorso, with a facade of red and white marble. In the interior are two tombs by Arsicola (above one of which is an earlier Pieta). Near Aquila, Braccio Fortebraccio da Montone, the powerful rival of Sforza, was defeated by the united armies of Queen Johanna II. of Naples, Pope Martin Y., and the Duke of Milan, commanded by Jacopo Caldora, on 2nd June, 1424. About 3 M. to the N.W. (excursion of 3-4 brs., two-borse carr. 5 fr.), on the road to Teramo (p. 189), is the village of S. Vittorino on the Aterno, occupying the site of the celebrated ancient Sabine town of Amiternum, where the historian Sallust was born. On an eminence which was once 12 * 180 Route 72 . ASSERGI, crowned by the ancient Arx, or citadel, stands an old tower with inscrip- tions and sculptures built into the walls. At the foot of the hill are remains of a theatre, an amphitheatre, and other buildings of the imperial epoch, where antiquities are frequently found. The Ascent of the Gran Sasso dTtalia requires 1-2 days, there and back. Meat and other provisions must be brought from Aquila. An excellent special map of the district has been issued by the Eoman section of the Italian Alpine Club ^ and Dr. Enrico Abbate’s ‘Guida al Gran Sasso d'ltalia’ (5 fr.) may also be recommended. The best season for this expedition is summer or autumn^ in spring the snow is a great hindrance. — Trav- ellers usually drive via (5V2 M.) Paganica (2L30ft. ; see below) and (8V2 M.) Camarda (where the sindaco keeps a key of the Rifugio on the Campo Pericoli) in 2 hrs. to (I61/2 M.) Assergi (2780 ft. \ additional provisions obtainable from Francesco Sacco), finely situated at the foot of the Gran Sasso. Mule (here known as vetiura) from this point to the Rifugio and back 5 fr. per day. Giovanni Acitelli, his brother, and Franco di Nicola are good guides. The two former, here only from May to Nov., possess a key to the Rifugio. Tariff : to the Rifugio in summer, one day 5, two days 7 fr., in winter 7 and 10 fr.; to the summit, spending a night in the Ei- fugio, 10 and 16 fr. ; with descent to Pietracamela 15 and 20 fr. •, each addit. day 4 and 6 fr. — From Assergi we walk or ride in about 41/2 hrs., passing a good spring, to the Passo della Portella (7400 ft.), a narrow saddle between the Pizzo Cefalone and the Monte Portella (see below), whence we survey the N. slopes of the Apennines as far as Ascoli. Thence we descend in 1 hr. to the Campo Pericoli^ inhabited by shepherds , where the night is usually spent in the Rifugio del Campo Pericoli (7220 ft.), built by the Italian Alpine Club. An ascent of 2-2^/2hrs. more, on foot, passing an ice- cold spring on the Conca degli Invalidi ^ brings us to the summit. The *Gran Sasso d’ltalia, or Monto Gorno (9585 ft.), is the highest peak of the Apennines. In formation it resembles the Limestone Alps of Tyrol. The view is strikingly grand, embracing the Adriatic and the grand mountains of Central Italy, while in clear weather even the rocky Dalmatian coast and the Tyrrhenian Sea (W.) are visible. The other chief summits of the Gran Sasso group are the Pizzo d" Intermesole (8680 ft.), the Corno Piccolo (8650 ft.), the Pizzo Cefalone (8305 ft.), and the Monte della Portella (7835 ft.). The ascent of the Gran Sasso from Teramo (p. 189) is less conven- ient. We drive by the Aquila road via Montorio up the valley of the Vomano to (81/2 hrs,) a point shortly before Fano Adriano (p. 189), where we turn to the left, by a bridle-path crossing high above the mountain- stream of the Arno, and ascend to (1 hr.) Pietracamela (3295 ft.). The sindaco here also has a key of the Rifugio on the Campo Pericoli (see above; guides, Domenico Rossi and Pietro Venanzo). We ascend to the latter in 5-6 hrs. From Aquila to Avezzano, ca. 31 M., diligence daily in 7 hrs. (8 hrs. in the reverse direction). The road descends into the Aterno Valley, crosses the railway, and ascends slowly through vineyards. Beyond Ocre it passes through an oak-plantation. Fine retrospect of Aquila and the Gran Sasso ; farther on, view to the S.E. of the Maiella. Numerous villages and hamlets lie on the surrounding slopes. 15^2 M. (41/2 hrs\ drive from Aquila) Rocca di Mezzo, a wretched village on the plateau, where horses are changed. About 1 hr. beyond Rocca, near Ovindoli with its pictur- esque ruin, we reach the top of the pass and begin to descend rapidly on the other side. *View of the plain of the Lago di Fucino (p. 182). The castle of Celano and then the village itself soon come into sight and are reached in hr. more. Thence to Avezzano, see p. 182. As the train proceeds we obtain a pretty retrospective view of Aquila. The scenery of the valley is very striking; to the N. the Gran Sasso dTtalia. 69 M. Paganica, 2^/2 M. from the village of that name (see above); 74 M. 8. Demetrio ne'Vestini; 771/2 M. Campana-Fagnano ; 861/2 M. Fontecchio, the village of which is OAIUSOLI. 13. Route. 181 perched higli \ip on the rocks. Tlie valley of the Aterno, which the railway descends, contracts. — 84 M. Beffi^ with a large castle to the left. — The train now descends a steep gradient. — 87 M. Acciano ; 90 M. Molina. Then three long tunnels ; part of the line lies high above the river. — 95 M. Raiano (p.l84). Here the railway leaves the Aterno, which flows to the N.E. to Popoli, and begins to ascend the luxuriant valley of Solmona, watered by the Ohio, a tributary of the Aterno. To the E. is the Maiella chain, and to the W. the hills enclosing the Lago di Fucino. 102 M. Solmona, see p. 184. 13. From Rome to Castellammare Adriatico via Avezzano and Solmona. 149 M. Railway (no express-trains) in 9 V 4 -IIV 2 krs. (fares 27 fr. 15 c., 19 fr., 12 fr. 25 c.). From Rome to Mandela via Tivoli, see Baedeker s Central Italy. Beyond Mandela the train follows the ancient Via Valeria and the Teverone. — 36 M. Cineto - Romano (diligence to Subiaco); 38 M. Roviano. The railway now leaves the valley of the Teverone and ascends a steep incline to (41 M.) ArsoU, prettily situated on a hill, with a castle of the Massimi. Tunnel. — 42^/2 Riofreddo, situated on the tributary of the Teverone of that name. Near (43^2 M.) Cavalier e lay the ^quian town of Carseoli, the ruins of which were used in the middle ages to build Arsoli (see above") and Carsoli. High up on a hill (3410 ft.) to the S.E. lie the church and convent of S. Maria dei Bisognosi, with paintings dating from 1488 and a wonder-working crucifix (visited on Sun. by many pilgrims from the surrounding district). — 47 M. Carsoli (Loc. Stella, tolerable), commanded by a picturesque ruined castle. The railway now ascends the narrow valley to (50 V 2 ^0 Colli di Monte Bove, beyond which we reach the tunnel of Monte Bove, the longest on the railway (more than 3 M.). bi^/2 M. Sante Marie. We then descend to (57 M.) Tagliacozzo, a small town at the mouth of a deep ravine, in which rises the Imele, the Himella of antiquity. The sources of the Liris lie 41/2 M. to the S., near Cappadocia. The train now enters the fertile Campi Palentini, the most beauliful part of the territory of the Marsi , surrounded by lofty mountains, the highest of which, the double-peaked Monte Velino (8160 ft.), to the N.E., is visible as far as Rome. Here, on 26th Aug., 1268, the young Conradin of Hohenstaufen , the last scion of that illustrious imperial house, was defeated, notwithstanding the brav- ery of his knights, by Charles I. of Anjou , who had placed a part of his army in ambush. — 62 M. Scurcola , dominated by an old castle of the Orsini, with a fine view. In the church of S, Maria is an old carved wooden figure of the Virgin, from the adjacent 182 Route 13. AVEZZANO. From Rome convent of S. Maria (see below), executed by order of Charles of Anjou. The train next crosses the Salto j passing on the left the ruins of the abbey of S. Maria della Vittoria, which was built by Charles of Anjou in commemoration of his victory over Conradin (p. 181). The building , the architect of which was Niccolo Pisano , was, however, soon destroyed. — 63 M. Cappelle Magliano. 67 M. Avezzano (Ai 6 . Vittoria^ clean, R., L., & A. 2 V 4 , omn. from the station to the town 25-50 c.), is a town of 7400 inhab., with a chateau built by the Colonnas and now belonging to the Bar- berini. The estate-office of Prince Torlonia, at which a permesso to see the reclamation-works at the Lago di Fucino is obtained (gratis), contains a collection of objects found in the lake (see below). — From Avezzano to Aquila, see p. 180. About 4 M. to the N.E. of Avezzano , at the base of Monte Velino (see below), lies the village of Albe , the ancient Alba Fucentia, reached from Antrosano (one-horse carr. to this point and back 3-4 fr.) by a walk of 3/4 hr. It lay on the confines of the territories of the Vestini, Marsi, and iEqui, and having received a Roman colony of 6000 souls, B.C. 303, it became the most powerful Roman stronghold in the interior of Italy. Three summits (that to the N.E. occupied by the present village) were strongly fortified and connected by a massive polygonal wall. In ascending from Antrosanto we pass extensive remains of this wall, and the castle of the Orsini, in Albe, incorporates some of the masonry of the ancient fortifications. On the S.W. hill is a Temple.^ which has been converted into a church of 8. Pietro with eight Corinthian columns of marble in the interior (key obtained from the Arciprete or from the Conte Pace in Albe). On the Colle di Pettorino, or S.E. hill, are large polygonal walls. Fine view of the valley. The Ascent of Monte Velino (8160 ft.) from Avezzano takes 1-2 days. The night is passed at Magliano or Massa (PAlbe.^ whence the top is reached in 6 hrs., with guide. The now drained Lago di Fucino (2180 ft.), the ancient Lacus Fucinus , was once 37 M. in circumference and 65 ft. in depth. Owing to the want of an outlet, the level of the lake was subject to great variations which were frequently fraught with disastrous results to the inhabitants of the banks. Attempts were therefore made to drain the lake in ancient times , but it was only very re- cently (in 1875) that this object was finally accomplished. The earliest sufferers from the inundations were the ancient Marsi, in consequence of whose complaints Csesar formed the project of affording a permanent remedy for the evil , but the work was not begun till the reign of the Emp. Claudius. The bottom of the lake lies about 80 ft. above the level of the Liris at Capistrello, and the plan was to con- struct a tunnel , or emissarius , through the intervening Monte Salviano. No fewer than 30,000 men were employed in the execution of the work during eleven years. This was the most gigantic undertaking of the kind ever known before the construction of the Mont Cenis tunnel. The length of the passage was upwards of 31/2 M., and for about 1^4 M. of that distance it was hewn in the solid rock. The transverse measurement of the tunnel varied from 4 to 16 sq. yds., and in other respects also the work was entirely destitute of uniformity. The greatest depth of the tunnel below the surface of the earth was 298 ft., and 33 shafts were constructed for the admission of air and the removal of rubbish. With a view to inaugurate the completion of the work , A.D. 52 , Claudius to Voslcllammare. OKLANO. 13. Haute. 18^3 arranged a sanguinary gladiatorial naval contest, which was attended by a vast concourse of spectators, but it was found necessary to deepen the tunnel, and it was again opened with renewed festivities, as Tacitus re- cords (Ann. xii. 57). Ancient writers stigmatise the work as an entire failure, but their strictures are not altogether well founded, for it was obviously never intended to drain the whole lake, but merely to reduce it to one-third of its original size. Serious errors had, however, been committed in the construction of the tunnel, and especially in that of the channel which conducted the water to the emissarius. Claudius died in 54, and nothing farther was done in the matter. Trajan and Hadrian partially remedied the defects, but the channel and the emissarius itself afterwards became choked up. Frederick II. attempted to re-open the tunnel, but the task was far beyond the reach of mediaeval skill. After the year 1783 the lake rose steadily, and by 1810 it had risen upwards of 30 ft. Efforts were now made under the superintendence of Rivera to restore the Roman emissarius, but under the Bourbon regime there seemed little prospect that the task would ever be completed. In 1852 the govern- ment was accordingly induced to make a grant of the lake to a company on condition that they would undertake to drain it, and the sole privilege was soon afterwards purchased from them by Prince Torlonia of Rome (d. 1886). M. de Montricher, a Swiss, the constructor of the aqueduct of Marseilles (d. at Naples in 1858), and his pupil Bermont (d. 1870), and subsequently M. Brisse conducted the works. The difficulties encountered were pro- digious, and the natives were frequently heard to indulge in the jest, ‘o Torlonia secca il Fucino, o il Fucino secca Torlonia’. In 1862, however, the emissarius was at length re-opened. It is an extension of the Roman work, but longer and wider, and constructed with the utmost care. It is nearly 4 M. long, and a transverse section measures about 21 sq. yds. The beginning of it is marked by a huge lock, erected in a massive style. This is the outlet of the channel which is intended to keep the lowest portions of the basin drained. A broad road, about 35 M. in length, runs round the reclaimed land (36,000 acres in extent) , which is con- verted into a vast model farm, colonised by families from the prince’s different estates. An excursion to Luco, about 6 M, from Avezzano, will afford the traveller a good opportunity of inspecting the drainage operations (permesso ne- cessary, see p. 182). He should drive to the entrance of the new outlet ( Incite ) , and get the custodian to conduct him thence to the ancient emissarius. 70 M. Paterno. — 73 M. Celano, a town with 7000 inhah., is beautifully situated on a hill, and from it the Lago di Fucino is sometimes called Lago di Celano. The Castle (*View), erected in 1450, was once occupied by the unfortunate Countess Covella, who was taken prisoner by her son Rugierotto. Celano was the birth- place of Thomas of Celano (d. 1253), the supposed author of the celebrated Latin requiem, ‘Dies irfe, dies ilia’. The train skirts the N. side of the former lake, and beyond (75 M.) Aielli begins to ascend. 77 M. Cerchio. Tunnel. 79 M. Collarmele^ in the narrow valley of the Oiovenco, — 82 M. Pescina, the seat of a bishop and birthplace of Card. Mazarin (1602-1661). The village of S. Benedetto , 2Y2 to the S.W., occupies the site of Marru- vium, the capital of the Marsi, remains of which are still visible. — 85 M. Carrito Ortona, picturesquely perched on an isolated rock. On quitting the Giovenco valley the train penetrates the central ridge of the Abruzzi by the tunnel of Monte Curro (2^5 M.). Beyond (89 M.) Cocullo, in a sequestered upland valley, we thread the tunnel 184 Route 13, SOLMONA. From Rome of Monte Luparo (1 M. long) and cross the watershed between the valleys of Fucino and Solmona. 92 M. Ooriano Sicoli. — Beyond the following tunnel we obtain a splendid ^'^'View of the valley of Solmona. Nearly 1000 ft. below us lies Raiano Inferiore; farther off, Pentima with the solitary cathedral of S. Pelino (p. 185); in the middle distance, the isolated hill of S. Cosmo (2210 ft.); in the background the imposing mass of the Maiella. — 93V2 Raiano Superiore , nearly 3 M. from Raiano Inferiore , which is a station on the Solmona and Aquila railway (p. 181). The train now descends rapidly along the side of the valley, passing through several tunnels, to (95 M.) Prezza. It then runs to the S.E. through the picturesque valley of the SagittariOj crossing that stream beyond (100 M.) Anversa Scanno by a two-storied via- duct of 16 arches. 103 M. Bugnara. 107 m. Solmona. — The station is more than 1 M. from the town (omnibus 30 c.). — Hotels. Italia, with trattoria, very fair, R. I 1/2 fr. ; Alb. Monzu, at the gate, R. 1 fr. , tolerable. — Caffd in the main street. Solmona (1570 ft.), with 18,500 inhab., the ancient Sulmo of the Paeligni, the birthplace of Ovid, who was much attached to this his ‘cool home, abounding in water’, as he calls it, is picturesquely situated, being commanded on two sides by mountains, and con- tains several medieval buildings of architectural interest. The palace of Baron Tabassi , in a side-street, and several others de- serve examination. The church of S. Maria Annunziata^ and the Gothic facades of the churches of S. Francesco d" Assisi and S. Maria della Tomba^ though all more or less injured by the earthquake of 1706, are also interesting. The church of S. Francesco was built on the site of an older church, a Romanesque portal of which, opposite the above-mentioned hotel, is still preserved, and serves as an entrance to the meat-market. In front of it are an aqueduct of 1256 and a tasteful fountain in the Renaissance style (1474). At the door of the grammar-school is a statue of Ovid in blackish stone, dating from the 15th cent. ; the name of the poet still lingers in the songs of the district as that of a famous sorcerer. The strong fermented wine (‘vino cotto’) of Solmona has some reputation. About 3 M. to the N. of Solmona, and I 72 M. from the station, lies the Badia di 8. Spirit o ^ the church of which contains some paintings by Raphael Mengs. Adjacent are extensive remains of the foundations of a Roman building known as the ‘Villa di Ovidio’. On the rock above the ruins, picturesquely situated , is the Hermitage of Celestine V. (comp, p. 178). About 16 M. to the S. of Solmona lies Scanno (3445 ft.), reached on a mule in about 6 hrs. (walking not recommended). The picturesque route passes several villages, and then ascends the wild and rocky ravine of the Sagittario. The latter part of it skirts the lake of Scanno. Scanno (no inn, private introductions desirable) is perhaps the finest point in the Abruzzi. The women of Scanno wear a peculiar costume. The Monte Amaro (9170 ft.), the highest summit of the Maiella may be ascended from Solmona. Riding is practicable to the Campo di Giove,^ 3-4 hrs.; thence to the top (refuge-hut) 5 hrs. to CaslelLarnmare, I’OPOLI 13. Route. 185 Fkom Solmona to Caiankllo (Naples)^ ca. 75 M. Diligence to Rocca Ravindola daily in 9 lirsi., starting in the evening. At Rocca Ravindola we reach the railway and at Caianello catch the express to Naples. Carr, and pair from Solmona to (25 M.) Castel di Sangro., 12 fr. — The road traverses the plain to (6 M.) Pettorano and then ascends circuitously to Rocca Pia or Rocca Valloscura., a village in a rocky ravine. Fine retro- spects of the valley of Solmona. Beyond Rocca we ascend to the Piano di Cinquemiglia (4265 R.), a mountain-girt upland plain, the extent of which is indicated by its name. In winter this plain is often impassable for months on account of the snow, and even in summer the temperature is low. After passing the plain, we see Rivisondoli to the left. Roccarasa is passed on the right. The road then winds down to the valley of the Sangro, the ancient Sagrus. The village to the left is Rocca Cinquemiglia, We cross the river and reach — 25 M. Castel di Sangro (Albergo di Roma).^ picturesquely situated at the foot of lofty mountains, on the right hank of the wide and rapid Sangro. Its only objects of interest are a ruined castle and the old church of S. Nicola, by the bridge. Diligence hence to (I 872 M.) Isernia in 3 hrs. (6 fr.). The road to Isernia ascends the hills separating the valley of the Sangro from that of the Vandra.^ an affluent of the Volturno. Fine view at the top; below, to the left, the town of Forli, We descend through the villages of Rionera and Vandria., cross the valley, and ascend another range of hills, on the crest of which we obtain a view of Isernia and the wide valley of the Volturno. 431/2 M. Isernia (Nuova Napoli; Stella d'' Italia)., the ancient Samnite town of uEsemia., formerly of importance on account of its strong situation on an isolated hill, now consists mainly of one long, narrow, and dirty main street. A few Roman remains are visible at the church of S. Pietro and elsewhere, and also some relics of the ancient polygonal walls. Archaeologists may make an excursion hence to Pietrabbondante., with the ruins (theatre and temple) of the Samnite Bovianum. Road to (9 M.) Pescolanciano (diligence at 10.30 a.m. ; corricolo 6 fr.); thence bridle- path 5 M. From Isernia a diligence runs daily to Campobasso (p. 191), via Boiano, the ancient Bovianum Undecimanorum. One-horse carr. from Isernia to Venafro 6 fr. Railway from Isernia to Caianello.^ see p. 7. The railway now bends sharply to the N., towards the valley of the Aterno. — IIOY2 M. Pratola Peligna. 113 M. Pentima. A short distance hence is the Cathedral of *-i5. Pelino (keys kept by the canon at the village), an edifice of the 13th century. The architecture is very interesting, hut the interior has unfortunately been modernised. Old pulpit. Chapel of St. Alexander of the 16th century. On the lofty surrounding plain lie the ruins of the extensive ancient city of Corfinium, once the capital of the Pseligni. In B.C. 90 it was consti- tuted the federal capital of the Italians during their struggle against the Romans for independence, and called Italica, but a few years later it had to succumb to the Romans. There are a few antiquities in the small Museum at Pentima, the key of which may be obtained from the attentive Inspettore Cav. de Nino at Solmona (interesting for archseologists only). II6Y2M. 'Bo^o\i( Albergo della Societa), a town with TOOOinhab., situated at the junction of the roads from Pescara, Aquila, Avezzano, and Solmona, and commanded by the ruined castle of the Cantelmij who were once masters of the place. A little above the town the Gizio and Aterno unite to form the Pescara^ along which the rail- way descends till it approaches the sea. 1 80 Route 14. CIVITELLA llOVETO. From Avezzano II 8 V 2 ^^ussL The valley is enclosed on both sides by abrupt cliffs. Tunnel. — 12572^. Torre de Pas5cri, picturesquely situated. Connoisseurs of early Christian architecture should visit the ab- bey of 8. Clemente di Casauria, IY4 M. from Torre de’ Passeri, founded by Emp. Lewis II. in 871. The church, an unfinished basilica of the 12 th cent., somewhat disfigured by additions in the 15th cent., has a vestibule with ancient sculptures on the portals. In the interior are the tomb of Pope Clement I. (d. 100) and a pul- pit of the 12th century. The crypt dates from the original building. This was the site of the ancient Interpromium^ relics from which are still preserved in the church. 1291/2 M. 8. Valentino; I 3 II /2 M. Alanno; 135 M. Manoppello, 140 M. Ghieti. — The Station is about 3 M. from the town, which lies on the heights to the E. (omnibus 60 c., in the reverse direction 50 c.)^ about halfway the road passes a ruined baptistery. Hotels in the town : Palomba d’ Oro •, Albergo del Sole ; Vittoria. Chieti (1065 ft.), the ancient Teate Marrucinorum, capital of a province, with 22,000 inhab., is a clean and busy town. From the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele a promenade leads round the town, affording magnificent *Views of the Maiella group, the course of the Pescara, and the hill country extending to the sea (the finest from the drilling-ground on the S.). The order of the Theatines , founded in 1555 by Paul IV., who had been Archbishop of Chieti, derives its name from this town. The valley of the Pescara gradually expands. Beyond (1481/2 M.) Pescara (p. 190) the line crosses the river. — 149 M. Castellam^ mare Adriatico, see p. 190. 14. From Avezzano to Roccasecca (Naples). From Avezzano to Roccasecca, about 50 M. ^ diligence daily (at 1 a.m.) in 71/4 hrs. to Sora; from Sora to Roccasecca railway. The diligence connects with the trains of the Rome and Naples railway. Avezzano., see p. 182. The drive through the valley of the Liris to Roccasecca (railway under construction) is one of the most attract- ive in Italy. The road traverses the Monte Salviano, and reaches ( 71/2 M.) Capistrello, where the emissarius of the Lago di Fucino (see p. 182) issues from the mountain. It then follows the left bank of the Liris. The imposing pyramid of Monte Viglio (7075 ft.; as- cended from Filettino on the W. side), to the W. of Liris, domin- ates the view. On a height on the right bank lies (4 M.) Civitella RovetOj the capital of the Val di Roveto , as the upper part of the valley of the Liris, as far as Sora, is called. Then, to the left, Civitd d'AntinOj the Antinum of the Marsi, with several relics of antiquity. To the right of the river lies Morino, whence the fine waterfall of Lo 8chioppo, 5 M. distant, may be visited. The beautiful oak and chestnut woods have of late been freely cut down. to Roccasccca. ISOLA. II. Route. 187 A cliarming mountainous district is now traversed. Wc pass ( I 272 M.) BalsoranOj and after 7 hrs’. drive from Avezzano (in all 31 M.) reach the town of — Sora (Hotel di Roma; Alb. delLiri).^ with 13,200 inhab., situated in the plain, on the right bank of the Liris, which flows in the form of a semicircle round the crowded houses of the town. The Romans wrested the place from the Volsci, and founded a powerful colony here, B.C. 303. The cathedral stands on ancient substructures. On the precipitous rock above the town, which forms, as it were, the key of the Abruzzi, are remains of polygonal walls, and also traces of mediaeval castles. The town was the native place of several celebrated men, and the residence of others (the Decii, Attilius Regulus, the orator Q. Valerius, L. Mummlus, etc.). The learned Cardinal Caesar Baronius (1538-1607) was born at Sora. The Railway from Sora to Roccasecca (20 M., in about 11 / 4 hr.) traverses the well-cultivated valley, following the left bank of the Liris. The abundance of water here imparts a freshness and charm to the scenery which are rarely met with in warm climates. To the left the Fibrenus falls into the Liris. In the Fibrenus, near its mouth, lies the Isola S. Paolo, on which a monastery was founded by the Benedictine S. Domenico Abbate, a native of Foligno. Hildebrand, afterwards Pope Gregory VII., was once a monk here. The island is also supposed to he the Insula Arpinas, the birthplace of Cicero, the scene of his dialogue ‘De Legibus’. The abbey- church , recently restored, is an interesting edifice of the 12th century. Cicero’s villa was erected by his grandfather, and embellished by his father, who devoted his leisure to the study of science here, and it was therefore a favourite retreat of Cicero himself, and is described by him in his treatise De Leg. 2, 3. In the reign of Domitian the villa belonged to the poet Silius Italicus. The Liris was crossed by an ancient bridge above the island, the '•Ponte d% Cicerone’', one of the three arches of which is still standing. In the neighbourhood are several manufactories, chiefly of paper (cartiere), surrounded by well-kept gardens. The ^Gardens con- nected with the former Cartiera del Fibreno contain the picturesque waterfalls (Le Cascatelle) of the Liris and the Fibrenus. The cool water of the latter is praised by Cicero. 31/2 M. Isola (no inn; accommodation may be obtained dit Luigi Meglio's^, or Isola Liri, a small town with 6000 inhab., which, as its name indicates, stands on an island in the Liris. The two arms of the river here form two magnificent waterfalls, 80 ft. in height. That on the E. side, a view of which is obtained from the bridge as the town is entered, is a perpendicular fall, while the other and more picturesque cascade, to see which we cross the second bridge and keep to the right, is broken by the rocks into several arms. A road leads hence in 1^2 Arpino. About 3 M. to the W. of Isola (good road; carr. 3-4 fr.) lies the abbey of SS. Giovanni e Paolo di Casamari, now declared national property, with a well-preserved church of the beginning of the 12th century. The name preserves the memory of the birthplace of Marius at Cercatae, afterwards known as Cercatae Marianae, 188 Route 15. FERMO. From Ancona 7 M. ArpinOj station for the town of that name situated high above the valley. Arpino [Locanda della Pace, near the Piazza) is a finely situated town with 12,000 inhab., the ancient Volscian mountain-town of Arpinum, and celebrated as the home of Marius (see above) and Cicero. The Town Hall in the Piazza is embellished with busts of Marius, Cicero, and Agrippa. Arpino was the native place of the well-known painter Giuseppe Cesari (1560-1640), more commonly known as the Cavaliere d’ Arpino, whose house is still pointed out. The present town occupies only a small part of the site of the ancient Arpinum. The citadel of the latter lay on an abrupt emin- ence, connected with the town by a narrow isthmus and now occupied by the small octagonal church of S. Maria della Civitd (view). The town itself rose on the slope of a still higher hill. The greater part of the ancient wall, consisting of large irregular blocks of stone, broken at intervals by mediaeval round towers, is still preserved, and may be traced throughout its whole extent. The ascent should be made on the N. side. On the hill stands the Porta delV Arco, a remarkable gateway with a pointed arch. 10 V2 M. Fontane. — 131/2 M. Arce, in a strikingly picturesque situation. — The line here quits the valley of the Liris, and runs to the S. E. to (20 M.) Roccasecca; see p. 3. 15. From Ancona to Foggia (Brindisi). 201 M. Railway in 63/4-19 brs.; fares 36 fr. 50, 25 fr. 55, 14 fr. 60 c., express fares 40 fr. 15, 28 fr. 10 c. — Ancona is 347 M. distant from Brin- disi, to which an express train runs daily in 15V4 hrs. in correspondence with the quick trains from Milan and Bologna (fares 69 fr. 20 c., 46 fr. 45 c.) •, also once weekly (Sun.) in II3/4 hrs. (from Bologna to Brindisi 153/4 hrs.), in connection with the English mail to India, carrying first-class passengers to Brindisi only. The line skirts the coast, affording a sea view to the left, and an in- land view to the right. The towns, generally situated on the heights, at some distance from the railway, communicate regularly with their stations by diligence; but these vehicles have little pretension to comfort. From Ancona via (3^2 M.) Varano, (10 M.) Osimo, (15 M.) Loreto, (I71/2 M.) Porto Recanati, and (23 M.) Potenza Picena to (26^/2 M.) Porto Civitanova, see Baedeker s Central Italy. — Porto Civitanova, at the mouth of the Chienti, is the station for the town of Civitanova, which lies II/4 M. inland. A railway runs hence to Fabriano via Macerata and Albacina (see Baedeker's Cen- tral Italy^. The railway to Foggia and Brindisi crosses the Chienti. 31 M. S. ELpidio a Mare. The village of S. Elpidio lies several miles in- land. — The Tenna is next crossed. 331/2 M. Porto S. Giorgio, with a handsome castle. On the hill, 3 M. inland, is situated Fermo {Locanda delV Aquila; seat in a carriage 50 c.), the ancient Firmum Picenum, with 18 ,(XX) inhab., and the seat of an archbishop. It became a Roman colony after the begin- to Foggiii. TERAMO. 15. Route. 189 ning of the First Punic War, and has continued since that period to be a town of some importance. At the Porta S. Francesco^ by which the town is entered , are seen remnants of the ancient wall , constructed at a very remote period. The streets ascend somewhat precipitously to the height on which the handsome Piazza is situated \ the Town Hall here contains some inscriptions and antiquities. Outside the town we obtain fine views of the fertile district, the Apennines, and the sea. The train next crosses the brooks Lete Vivo and Aso. 43 M. Pedaso; 48 M. Cupra Marittima; 50 M. Grottammare (Pens. Giusti, pens. 5 fr., open also in winter), frequented for sea-bathing. On the hill, about 41/2 M. inland, is Ripatransone (6000 inhab.). Near Cupra Marittima (Marano) once lay the ancient town of that name, with a celebrated temple dedicated to the Sabine goddess Cupra, and restored by Hadrian in A.D. 127. 53 M. S. Benedetto (Inn at the station) , a village on the coast. From S. Benedetto toAscoli Piceno, 201 / 2 M., railway in lV 4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c.). The train ascends the valley of the Tronto^ passing Porto Monteprandone^ Montesampolo., Spinetoli Colli., Offida Castel di Lama., and Marino. — Ascoli Piceno {Albergo della Posta., very fair), the ancient Asculum Picenum, with 23,300 inhab., the seat of a bishop and capital of a province, is situated on the S. bank of the Tronto. The valley is here contracted and enclosed by lofty mountains. To the N. rises the jagged Monte delV Ascensione (3610 ft.), to the W. the Sibilla, and more to the S. the Pizzo di Sevo. Ascoli, an ancient town in a commanding situation, the capital of the tribe of Picentines, took a prominent part in the Social War against Rome, and was captured and destroyed by Pompey. Interesting remains of the ancient walls, a bridge, and a *Gate at the W. end of the town. The town-hall contains a few inscriptions, and other relics are encountered in other parts of the town , e. g. insignificant vestiges of a theatre and amphitheatre. The architecture of the churches and palaces dates chiefly from a period anterior to the Renaissance, materially en- hancing the interest of the town , which is indeed the most attractive on the E. coast of S. Italy. The "^Cathedral is said to have been founded by Constantine on the site of a temple of Hercules. The original sub- structures are still traceable. A chapel on the right in the interior con- tains good pictures by Crivelli. In 8. Vittore., Romanesque mural paint- ings of the 12th and 13th cent, were discovered under the whitewash in 1890. — Mountain-roads lead hence via Norcia to Spoleto., and others through the valleys of the Velino and Aterno to Aquila (p. 177). Beyond (56 M.) Porto d^ Ascoli tbe train crosses the Tronto, the ancient Truentus. — 62 M. Tortoreto. 68 M. Giulianova, a dirty village with a few fine villas on the hill, 11/4 M. from the coast, built in the 15th cent, by the inhabit- ants of the ancient Castrum Novum on the Tordino, and then named S. Flaviano. From Giulianova to Teramo, 16 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 2 fr. 95, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 35 c.). The train ascends the valley of the Tordino, passing Mosciano- 8. Angelo, Notaresco , Bellante- Ripattone, Castellalto-Canzano. — Teramo {Albergo Pellegrino, Via Delfico ; Caffe Zippetta, Corso S. Giorgio^ omn. from the station to the town , 1 / 4 -V 2 fr-)i the ancient Interamna , is the capital of a province and seat of a bishop, with 20,400 inhabitants. The Gothic cathedral is now modernised; in the interior is an antependium by the*goldsmith Nicola di Guardiagrele (15th cent.). In the E. of the town is the Villa of the painter G. Della Monica, built in the style of a med- iaeval castle. — A road ascends the valley of the Vomano from Teramo, passing Montorio and Fano Adriano, ascending between the Monte Piano (5645 ft.) and the Monte Cardito, leaving Monte 8. Franco (7000 ft.) to the 1 90 Route 15. PESCARA. From Ancona S., and then descending in many curves past S. Viitorino (p. 179) where several roads meet, to Aquila (p. 177). — Ascent of the Gran Sasso d’ltalia, see p. 180. The train crosses the Tordlno, the ancient Batinus, and then beyond (73 M.) Montepagano the Vomano ( Vomanus). To the right a fine view is obtained of the Gran Sasso dTtalia (p. 180), which is here visible from base to summit. — "^ 91/2 M- Atri Mutignano. Atri (1390 ft. ^ Alhergo del Teatro).^ 6 M. inland (diligence daily ^ other conveyances rarely obtainable), the ancient Hatria.^ an episcopal residence, with 10,000 inhab., is a town of great antiquity, and was once celebrated for its copper coins. Numerous ruins bear testimony to its ancient im- portance. The Gothic cathedral, with its frescoes and a 15th cent, painting of the Madonna adoring the child, merits a visit. It rests on extensive foundations of ancient origin, perhaps those of a temple. Extensive ’’"View from the campanile. Several large grottoes near the town are also of very remote date. The train now crosses the Piomba, the ancient Matrinus, 5 M. inland from which is situated Cittd Santangelo (7000 inhab.). 84 M. Silvi; 87 M. Montesilvano. Penne^ 16 M. inland, the capital of the district, with 10,000 inhab., was the Pinna of the ancients, and chief town of the Vestini, of which period various relics still exist. 90 M. Castellammare Adriatico (Leon d'Oro), junction for the lines to Terni and Aquila^ and to Rome, Avezzano, and Solmona (see RR. 12, 13). The train next crosses the Pescara river. 92 M. Pescara (Alb, Rebecchino, near the station, with trattoria, clean; Railway Restaurant, mediocre), a fortified town with 5500 inhab., is situated in an unhealthy plain. The mountain-group of the Maiella, culminating in Monte Amaro (9160 ft.), now becomes visible on the right. The train crosses the Aicnio. 96 M. Francavilla, a village on the hill to the right. Beyond it a mountain-spur projects into the sea. Four short tunnels. Beyond the third the fort of Ortona becomes visible on the left. 105 M. Ortona. The town (Progresso ; Alb. Orientale), 1/2 M- from the station, the ancient Ortona , a seaport-town of the Fren- tani, is a tolerably clean and well-built place (12,000 inhab.), situated on a lofty promontory, with asmallquay on the shore below. Beautiful views towards the S. as far as the Punta di Penna (see below), especially from the ancient and dilapidated fort. The archi- tecture of the cathedral should be inspected. Beyond Ortona the train passes through another tunnel and crosses two brooks. IO91/2 S. Vito Lanciano is the station for Lanciano, 6 M. inland, with 18,000 inhab., the ancient Anxanum. Between S. Vito and the next station (113 M.) Fossacesia are three tunnels, beyond which we obtain a pleasing survey of the peninsula, terminating in the Punta di Penna. Near (116 M.) Torino di Sangro the train crosses the Sangro, Lat. Sagrus. 122 M. Casalbordino . Three tunnels, beyond which to Voggia. TEKMOTJ. /5. Route. 191 Vasto becomes visible, on an olive-clad lull on the right. 131 M. Vasto. The town lies on the hill, IY4 M. from the station. Vasto d’Aimone (Albergo delV Indipendenza)^ the ancient Jlis- toniumj with 14,000 inhab., lies high, and commands line views as far as the Tremiti islands and Monte Gargano. The small cathe- dral with a Gothic facade bears a memorial tablet to General ‘Carlo Antonio Manhes, distruttore de’ briganti, primo cittadino del Vasto’, date 1810. A small museum in the town-hall contains inscriptions and other relics found here. In the environs are extensive olive- plantations. Beyond (134 M.) S. Salvo the train crosses the Trig no , Lat. Trinius. 139 M. Montenero. 1471/2 Termoli (Alb. ^ Trattoria della Corona)^ a smalltown close to the sea, with mediaeval walls. Charming survey of the Maiella and Abruzzi, and farther on of the Tremiti Islands (the Insulae Diomedeae of mythology, still serving, as in antiquity, as a place of confinement) and Monte Gargano in the distance. The cathedral has a Gothic facade. From Termoli to Benevento via Campobasso, 107 M., railway in 7V4-10 hrs. (fares 19 fr. 45, 13 fr. 65, 8 fr. 75 c.). Usually no train in direct connection from Campobasso. Ttie journey on tlie whole is monotonous. 51/2 M. Guglionesi For to cannon e; 10 M. S. Martino in Pensilis; I 71/2 M. Ururi Rotello; 23 M. Larino., near the ruins of the ancient Larinum; 31 M. Casacalenda; 33 V 2 M. Bonefro; 36 V 2 ’ M. Ripabottoni Sant' Elia; 41 V 2 M. Cam- polieto Monacilione; 47 M. Matrice Montagano ; 52 M. Ripalimosano. — 66 M. Campobasso Centrale ; Alb. del Sannio)., the capital of a province, and a place of some importance, with 15,000 inhab., is noted for its steel wares. — 591/2 M. Baranello; 62 M. Vinchiaturo. — The railway here begins to descend the valley of the Tanaro. 69 M. S. Giuliano del Sannio. — 711/2 M. Sepino; in the neighbourhood are the extensive ruins of the ancient Saepinum.^ now Altilia. — 751/2 M. S. Croce del Sannio; 80 M. Morcone; 85 M. Pontelandolfo ; 861/2 M. Campolattaro ; 90 M. Fragneto Monforte ; 92 M. Pescolamazza ; IO 41/2 M. Pietra Elcina. — 107 M. Benevento^ see p. 204. Beyond Termoli, where the cactus first makes its appearance, the scenery is less attractive. The train crosses the Biferno^ Lat. Tifernus. 152 M. CampomarinOj 158 M. Chieuti, Albanian settle- ments. From Chieuti a road runs to the town of Serracapriola. We next cross the Fortore^ the ancient Frento. 165 M. Ripalta. Near Ripalta, on 15th June, 1503, the Normans defeated and captured Pope Leo IX. , and then , falling on their knees , implored his blessing. Leo, relenting, imparted it, and subsequently conferred Apulia, Calabria, and Sicily on the brothers Humfred and Robert Guiscard , a grant which was ultimately fraught with consequences so important to Rome and the papal throne, as well as to the Normans. To the N.E. is the Lago di Lesina, which communicates with the sea. The train now proceeds inland, in order to avoid the promontory of Monte Gargano (p. 193), a buttress of the Apennines projecting into the sea, with several peaks about 3300 ft. in height. — 1741/4 M. Poggio Imperiale. — 177 M. Apricena. — 184 M. San Severoj a dirty town with 17,500 inhab. , which, after a gallant resistance, was taken and almost entirely destroyed by the French 192 Route 15. MANFREDONIA. in 1799. The cholera committed fearful ravages here in 1865. — 191 M. Motta. 201 M. Foggia. — Hotels. Vittokia, Piazza Teatro; Milano, Via Maddalena; Roma, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, mediocre. — Railway Re- staurant^ I). 31/2 fr. — Cab to the town, 1/2 fr. Foggia, the capital of a province formerly called the Capitanata^ and the junction of the coast-railway and the line to Benevento and Naples (R. 17), is a clean, thriving town, with 40,300 inhabit- ants. It is well situated in a commercial point of view, and forms the central point of the great Apulian plain. The name is probably derived from the pits or cellars (Lat. foveae , now called fosse di grano')^ in which the inhabitants store their grain. On the left, opposite the first houses of the town, 1/4 M. from the station, is a portico forming the entrance to the Giardino Pubblico, which is adorned with several busts. Beyond these public grounds is a bo- tanic garden. The main street which we follow now takes the name of Corso Yittorio Emanuele. To the left in the piazza planted with trees rises a monument to Ymcenzo Lanm (1784-1860), a physician and patriot, who was born at Foggia. After 5 min. we cross the Corso del Teatro and reach the Piazza Federico II. , adorned with a foun- tain (Pozzo deir Imperatore), situated in the older part of the town. The name is a reminiscence of the Emperor Frederick II., who fre- quently resided at Foggia. Built into the wall of a modern house, in the side-street to the right, is a gateway belonging to the old pal- ace of the emperor, bearing an inscription of the year 1223 relative to the foundation. Leaving the Piazza Federico II. and turning to the left, we soon reach the Cathedral, which was originally erected by the Normans, partly destroyed by an earthquake in 1731, and af- terwards re-erected in a modern style. Part of the old facade only now exists. A great part of the spacious, treeless plain around Foggia is used as a sheep-pasture ( Tavoliere della Puglia). During the summer the flocks graze on the mountains, and in October return to the plain by three great routes (Tratturi delle Pecore). These migrations, during which hundreds of flocks may be encountered in one day, date from the Roman period. Alphonso I. , who introduced the merino sheep , converted the pastures into a royal domain in 1445 . The number of sheep supported by these pastures amounted to 41/2 million at the close of the 16 th century, but owing to the progress of agriculture, is now reduced to less than half a million. About 3 M. to the N. of Foggia are the scanty remains of the ancient town of Arpi^ said to have been founded by Diomedes, and afterwards replaced by Foggia. From Foggia to Maxfredonia, 22^2 ^-7 railway in 1 hr. (fares 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 85, 1 fr. 85 c.). — 10 M. Amendola; 15 M. Fontanarosa. 221/2 M. Manfredonia (Alb. Manfredi; Brit, vice-consul, Fran. CafareUi), a quiet town with 8500 inhab. and the seat of an arch- bishop, was founded by KJng Manfred about 1263, and destroyed by the Turks in 1620. It now contains no buildings of importance, but LU( KUA. 16. Route. 193 part of the mediaeval fortilicatioiis is well preserved. Owing to tlie sheltered situation of the town, to the S. of Monte Gargano, the vegetation is very luxuriant, resembling that of Sicily in character. About 2 M. to the W. of Manfredonia, on the road to Foggia, is the '^Cathedral of S. Maria Maggiore di Siponto^ a fine example of the Romanesque style, with a crypt. The tastelessly restored interior contains a ‘miracle- working’ Madonna and numerous votive tablets. This church is part of the scanty remains of the old Sipontum, which became a Roman colony in B.C. 194. Other interesting remains of the old town have come to light in re- cent excavations. The road also passes S. Leonardo.^ converted into a com- mandery of the Teutonic Order in the time of Hermann von Salza, with two fine portals, now used as a ‘Masseria’, or farmhouse, and very dilapidated. A road, at first traversing olive-plantations, and then ascending in windings, leads hence to (IOV 2 M.) Monte Santangelo (2655 ft.), with a pic- turesque castle, and a famous old sanctuary of 8. Michele., where a great festival is celebrated on 8th May. The chapel consists of a grotto to which 55 steps descend, and where, as the legend runs, St. Michael appear- ed to St. Lauren tins , Archbishop of Sipontum, in 491. In the 11th cent, the warlike Normans undertook pilgrimages to this sacred spot before they became masters of the country. The bronze doors, with scenes from Scrip- ture, bear the inscription : ‘Hoc opus completum est in regia urbe Constan- tinopoli adjuvante Dno Pantaleone qui fieri jussit anno ab incarnatione Dni Millesimo Septuagesimo Sexto’ (comp. p. 168). — From this point M. Galvo., the culminating point of Monte G-argano (3460 ft.), is most easily ascended. Between Monte Santangelo and Vico lies the extensive and beautiful beech- forest called Bosco delV Umhra^ which stretches towards the sea. Farther to the N. is Ischitella; towards the E., on the coast, is Viesti. The roads are bad, and suitable for riding and walking only. From Foggia to Lucera, I21/2 M., railway in about 40 min. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 5 c.); three trains daily. The line ascends gradually through arable land. Lucera (Albergo dei Fiori) ^ a town with 14,500 inhab., the ancient Luceria^ was regarded as the key of Apulia, owing to its situation. It is first heard of during the Samnite wars, and in B. C. 314 it became a Roman colony. It continued to be an important and prosperous town down to the 7th cent, after Christ, but was destroyed in 663. It was at length restored by Frederick II., who in 1223 transplanted a colony of Saracens hither from Sicily, bestowing on them entire religious freedom. They were in consequence staunch adherents of the Hohenstaufen family, and accorded an asylum to the wife and children of Manfred after the battle of Benevento. They were, however, subdued by Charles of Anjou in 1269, and in 1300, after an attempt to throw off the yoke of Charles II., were compelled to embrace Christianity. The town lies on a lofty plain, which slopes imperceptibly towards the S. and E., and abruptly towards the N. and W. On the W. side the plateau projects, forming a kind of peninsula, on which stands the admirably preserved *Castle (keys at the Municipio), erected by Frederick, but dating in its present form from the reign of Charles I. It is an interesting example of a mediaeval stronghold, and occupies the site of the ancient Arx. The *View embraces the plain bounded by the Apennines and Monte Gargano j to the N. lies the town of Baedekek. Italy III. 12th Edition. 13 1 94 Route 15. MELFI. S. Severo, and to the E. stretches the sea. The isolated mountain to the S. is the Monte Vulture near Melfl, the summit of which commands a survey of the whole of Apulia. — The old Cathedral., which had fallen into ruin in the time of Frederick II., was restored in the Gothic style after the conversion of the Saracens hy the An- jevins. The pilasters of the nave are in verde antico. The right transept contains a beautiful figure of the Madonna in marble, on a monument of 1605. Below the choir is a crypt. — A few inscriptions dating from the ancient municipium, which far exceeded the modern town in extent, are preserved in the library of the municipio, or town-hall. There are slight traces of an amphitheatre on the E. side of the town. On the road to S. Severo, 6 M. from Lucera, lay the Castel Fiorentino^ where Frederick II., after a reign of 38 years as a German king, died in 1250, in his 56th year. From Foggia to Rionero via Rocchetta S. Antonio, 461/2 railway in 33/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 50, 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 85 c.). — 51/2 M. CervarOj see p. 207; 11 M. Ordona^ the ancient Herdonia^ with an ancient bridge, amphitheatre, tombs, etc.; I91/2M. Ascoli Satriano (Albergo di Roma, clean), 11/2 M. from the station, charmingly situated, the ancient Ausculum Apulum., famed for the victory gained here by Pyrrhus over the Romans, B.C. 279; 24Y2 M. Can- dela, — 31 M. Rocchetta S, Antonio, Railway to Gioia del CoUe, see p. 195. 41 M. Melfi. (2065 ft.; PalmierVs Inn, in the Piazza; Filom, Savina's, Via S. Lucia), with 10,000 inhab., picturesquely situated on a half-destroyed lateral crater on the slope of Monte Vulture. The town has frequently suffered from earthquakes, and was com- pletely ruined by the last one in 1851, since which time it has been rebuilt, without, however, improving in cleanliness. It possesses an old castle of the Norman sovereigns, who often resided here, now restored by Prince Doria as a chateau. Here, in 1059, Pope Nicho- las II. invested Robert Guiscard with the duchies of Apulia and Calabria. The magnificent Cathedral of 1155, almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake, has since been rebuilt. The town-hall contains a fine Roman sarcophagus. Melfi is the centre of a considerable trade in wine and oil. The conspicuous Monte Vulture (4365 ft.) , an extinct volcano , may be visited from Melfi or Eionero (p. 195). Horace mentions it as the ‘Apulian Vultur’^ at that period it formed the boundary between Lucania and Apulia. Calabria extended hence in a S. E. direction to the lapygian or Salentinian promontory, the modern Capo di Leuca (p. 203); and S.W. lay the land of the Bruttii, as far as the Sicilian straits. Since the middle ages, however, the latter district has been named Calabria, while the ancient Calabria is now the Terra di Otranto. The former crater of M. Vulture is densely overgrown with oaks and beeches, among which two small and deep lakes are situated. By one of these are the Capuchin monastery of S. Michele , most picturesquely situated, and the ruined church of S. Ilario. Above the monastery rises VENOSA. 25. Route. 195 tlie summit of the mountain, II Pizzuto di Melfi (4360 ft.). The impene- trable woods in the interior of the crater harbour numerous wild boars and also, it is said, wolves. The circumference of the whole mountain is about 37 M. The railway skirts the slope of the Monte Vulture, traversing several tunnels. — 42 M. Rapolla; 45^/2 M. Barile. Numerous vineyards. 401/2 M. Rionero (Locanda dei Fiori), with 13,000 inhab., is the present terminus of the line, which is to be continued to Potenza (p. 209). From Rocchetta S. At^tonio to Gioia del Colle, 87 M., railway in 41/2 hrs. — The railway descends the valley of the Ofanto^ the Aufidus of the ancients, to (8 M.) S. Nicola, and thence ascends, to the S., the valley of the little Rendina to — 14 M. Rapolla-Lavello, where King Conrad IV. die'^ in 1254. 21 M. Venosa (poor inn), the ancient Venusia, colonised by Rome after the Samnite war (291 B.C.), is now a town with 7500 inhab., picturesquely situated on the slope of Monte Vulture, not far from a Fiumara, the ‘pauper aquse Daunus’ of Horace (Oarm. iii. 30, 11). The Castle was erected by Pirro del Balzo in the 15th century. The abbey and church of S. Trinita, consecrated by Pope Nicholas II. in 1058 and recently badly restored, contain the tombs of the founder Robert Guiscard and his first wife Aberarda, mother of Boemund, and several frescoes of the 13th and 14th centuries. The three prin- cipal chapels are still distinctly recognised. The handsome court contains numerous inscriptions, columns, and other relics of an amphitheatre, which lay in the neighbourhood. Near Venosa, on tbe road to tbe Fiumara, Jewish Catacombs, with inscriptions in Hebrew, Latin, and Greek, were discovered in 1853. History records that Jews were numerous here in the 4th and 5th centuries. An ancient structure of ‘opus reticulatum’ here is called the Casa di Orazio, but without the slightest authority. Horace, the son of a freedman, was born at Venusia, on 8th Dec., B.C.65, and there received his elementary education, after which his father took him to Rome in order to procure him better instruction. He frequently mentions the ‘far resounding Aufidus’ in his poems, as well as the villages in the vicinity (Carm. iii. 4, 14), such as the lofty Acherontia, now Acerenza (p. 209), 9 M. to the S.E., the woods of Bantia, to the N. of the latter, now Ahbadia de' Banzi, near Genzano, and the fertile meadows of the low-lying Ferentum (probably Forenza). On the wooded heights between Venusia and Bantia, in B.C. 208, M. Claud. Marcellus, the gallant conqueror of Syracuse, and the first gen- eral who succeeded in arresting the tide of Hannibal's success (at Rola, 215), fell into an ambuscade and perished. 29 M. Palazzo S. Oervasio, a large agricultural village. — 35 M. Spinazzola is tbe junction of a line under construction to Barletta (p. 196). — 401/2 Al. Poggiorsini ; 571/2 M. Gravina; 65 M. Alta- mura; 711/2 M. Casale d' Altamura; 751/2 M. Santeramo. — 87 M. Gioia del Colle ( Orazio Milano's Inn), with 14,000 inhab., is the junction for the railway to Bari and Taranto (p, 199). 196 16. From Foggia to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula. Railway to Brindisi^ 146 M. , in 5-6*/2 hrs. ^ fares 26 fr. 40, 18 fr. 50, 10 fr. 65c., express fares 29 fr. 5, 20 fr. 35 c. ^ comp. p. 188. — From Brindisi to Otranto^ 54 M., in 3-3V2 hrs.^ fares 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 85, 3 fr. 90 c. — Ex- cursions in the country are usually made here in two-wheeled Sciarrabd's (a corruption of the French ‘char-a-bancs’), resembling the Neapolitan corricoli. The average charge per day is 6-7 fr., fee included, and the average journey 30-35 M. Foggia^ seep. 192. On the right lies an extensive plain, the Tavo- liere della Puglia. Beyond it, to the S., rises Mte. Vulture (p. 194). 121/2 M. Orta Nova. — From (22 M.) the station Cerignola a branch-railway (74 Fr.) diverges to the town of Cerignola., with 26,000 inhah. The surrounding plain is richly cultivated, but en- tirely destitute of trees, which generally form an important feature in Italian fields and enhance the beauty of the landscape. The line approaches the coast. Cotton-plantations begin here. — 321/2 M. TrinitdpolL Beyond (35 M.) Ofantino the train crosses the Ofanto (p. 194), the last river of the E. coast, with banks covered with underwood. Between two ranges of hills to the right lies the broad plain on which the battle of Cannse was fought (see below). 421/2 M. Barletta (Alb.-Ristor. Fanfulla ; British vice - consul and Lloyd’s agent, M. Parlender), a seaport-town with 33,200 in- hab., picturesquely situated, contains a number of well-built houses and churches. The market-place is adorned with a bronze statue 14 ft. in height, said to represent the Emp. Heraclius (according to others Theodosius), and to have been found in the sea. In the Piazza d'Azeglio is a monument to Massimo d’Azeglio (d. 1866), the statesman, erected in 1880. The Cathedral otS. Maria Mag giore contains the tomb of a Count of Barbi and Miihlingen (d. 1566), with a German inscription. S. Andrea and S. Trinith possess sev- eral ancient pictures. The extensive Gastello dates from the time of Charles VI. In the wars between Louis XII. and Ferdinand the Catholic, Barletta was defended in 1503 by Gonsalvo da Cordova and besieged by the Duke of Nemours. During the siege, among other encounters, a combat took place in the vicinity (between Andria and Corato, p. 197) between thirteen on each side of the most valiant knights of Italy and France, conducted re- spectively by Colonna , and Bayard ‘sans peur et sans reproche’ , which terminated in favour of the former. Canosa {Albergo Genghi.^ bad), with 16,500 inhab., on the slope of a hill, lies 14 M. inland from Barletta and about as far from Andria (see below), with both of which it is connected by highroads. Of the ancient Canusium , once a prosperous town, a gate (Porta Varrense, on the road to Cerignola) , ruins of an extensive amphitheatre, and other relics still exist. Numerous painted vases, golden trinkets, etc., have been discovered in the neighbourhood. The principal church of S. Sabino^ with several small domes, contains a pulpit and episcopal throne in marble and some antique columns; its pavement is now several feet below the level of the street. In an adjacent court is the tomb of Boemund (d. 1111), son of Rob. Guiscard, one of Tasso’s heroes. Large olive-plantations in the neigh- bourhood, which, like the whole of Apulia, also yields excellent wine. TRANI. 16 , Route, 197 About midway between Barletta and Canosa, and. a little to the N. of the road, on the right bank of the Aufidus (Ofanto), once lay C'annae, where the Romans were signally defeated by Hannibal, R. C.216. The Roman army, under the Consuls Lucius iEmilius Paullus and Caius Terentius Varro, con- sisted of 80, (XX) foot and GCKK) horse, that of Hannibal numbered 40, (XK) foot and 10,000 horse. After various changes of position the two armies engaged on the right bank of the Aulidus, the right wing of the Romans and the left wing of the Carthaginians leaning on the river. The Gallic and Spanish legionaries opened the battle by a successful attack on the Carthaginian centre, but Ilasdrubal , at the head of the Carthaginian cavalry on the right wing, quickly put the Roman horse to bight, and then attacked the legions in the rear. Scarcely a single Roman foot-soldier escaped, 70,000 being left on the field, including .®milius Paullus the Consul, and 10,000 being taken prisoner. Hannibal lost only about BCKX) men. — In 1019 an Apulian and Norman army under Melo of Bari was defeated at Cannse by the troops of the Greek prefect Basilius Bugianus. In 1083 Cannae was taken and destroyed by Robert Guiscard. From Barletta to Bari via Andria , about 50 M., steam-tramway in 3V2 hrs., four times daily in each direction. — 7^/2 M. Andria {Albergo cT Italia^ clean), with 37,000 inhab., founded about 1046, once a favourite residence of the Emp. Frederick II., whose second wife lolanthe of Jeru- salem died here in 1228, after having given birth to a son (Conrad), and was interred in the interesting old cathedral. His third wife, Isabella of England, who died at Foggia in 1241, was also interred in the cathedral of Andria, but the monuments of these empresses have long since disappeared, having been destroyed by the partizans of Anjou. On the Porta S. Andrea^ or deir Imperatore^ is a metrical inscription in letters of metal, attributed to Frederick: Andria fidelis nostris affixa medullis^ etc. The old church of S. Agostino and the adjoining convent belonged to the Teutonic Order during the sway of the Hohenstaufen. — To the S. of Andria, on the summit of the pyramidal Murgie di Minervino^ is the conspicuous and imposing " del Monte^ erected by Frederick II., who frequently resided here, for the purpose of hawking in the neighbourhood. The building is maintained by government. This height commands a fine ' View of the sea, the valley of the Ofanto, Mte. Vulture, etc. A bridle-path (9V2 M.) ascends to it from Andria. A little beyond Andria , in a field by the roadside , is a modern monument called VEpitafio^ marking the spot where the above-mentioned encounter between Colonna and Bayard took place. 9^/2 M. Corato^ with 30.000 inhabitants. 14 M. Ruvo {Luigi Silenzi , clean), with 17,000 in- habitants, the ancient Ruhi^ famous for the numerous and beautiful vases found in the Apulian tombs in its environs, and now among the chief treasures of the Museum of Naples. The tombs have since been covered up again. — 17 M. Terlizzi. — 26 M. Bitonto (Alh.Centrale)^ with 26,000 inhabitants and large manufactures of salad-oil. The interesting cathedral contains several tombs of the 17th century. — Near (30^/2 M.) Modugno the tramway-line crosses the railway from Bari to Taranto (p. 199). — 37 M. Bari^ see p. 198. The line now skirts the coast. The country is luxuriantly fer- tile, and is chiefly famous for large olive-plantations yielding the finest quality of salad-oil. The district where this is produced now extends from Barletta and Canosa, past Bari, to the neighbourhood of Taranto (p. 210). The yield and quality of the olive are extremely fluctuating. A first-rate crop, though very rare, sometimes realises a price equal to the value of the whole estate. 501/2 M. Trani (Alhergo Italia; Alb. della Vittoria) ^ with 26.000 inhah., is a well-built seaport. The loftily situated Cathedral^ built about 1100, still possesses a Romanesque portal and beautiful 198 Route 16, BARI. From Foggia bronze doors by Barisano (1175). Interior barbarously modernised. The crypt, which extends beneath the entire church, deserves a visit. Above the portal of the church of the Ognissanti is a Roman- esque relief of the Annunciation. The interesting Gastello is now used as a prison. Several synagogues afford an indication of the former prosperity of the place and of its importance at the time of the Crusades. The pretty ‘Villa’, or public gardens, on the coast, contains two well-preserved milestones from the Via Traiana, which led from Benevento to Brindisi via Canosa, Ruvo, Bari, andEgnatia. Excellent wine (Mosca do di Tranijis produced in the neighbourhood. 55^2 M. Bisceglie^ with 23,000 inhab., the ruins of a Norman fortress, and numerous handsome villas. 61 M. Molfetta (30,000 inhab.), beautifully situated, an epis- copal see, was once in commercial alliance with Amalfi. After the death of Johanna I. her husband Otho, Duke of Brunswick, was confined in the castle here until released by Charles of Durazzo in 1384. — 65 M. Giovinazzo^ said to have been founded by the in- habitants of Egnatia (p. 200), on the destruction of the latter, or by the inhabitants of the ancient Netium (NatiolumJ. 691/2 M. S. Spirito and Bitonto (p. 197); the latter lies 4 M. to the W. 77 M. Bari. — Hotels. Albergo del Risorgimento (PI. a; C, 4), mediocre, witli good trattoria, R., L., & A. 2 V 2 fr., bargaining advisable^ Alb. Centrale (PI. b; D, 4), at the corner of tbe Via Piccinni and the Via Cavour; Hotel Cavour (PI. c; C, 4), Corso Vitt. Emannele 86^ Alb. Piccinni (PI d; D, 4), Via Piccinni 12. Cafe - Restaurant. Stoppani^ Corso Vitt. Emanuele. — Beer, etc., at Orsola's^ CafliscK's^ and the Birreria del Bolognese^ all in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele. Cabs into the town, or per drive, 50 c., after dusk 70 c. ; with two horses 70 or 90 c. Tramway to Barletta,, from the N.W. of the Giard. Garibaldi, see p. 196. Steamboats. Vessels of the Navigazione Qenerale Italiana^ for Brindisi, the Pireeus, Tremiti, Ancona, Venice, and Trieste. Also to Genoa and Marseilles. British Vice-Consul, Emile Berner,, Esq. — U. S. Consular Agent, Nicholas Schuck,, Esq. — Lloyd’s Agents, Marstaller.^ Hausmann., le Talixnuw Tempio cuUico (ca-anzi.) [ \tTenmio di.^ \r(^i&sadt Sa, TorremareA iSt^ioue| [etajjontoi S c a la ae I 1 ; 100.000 Lago^^alacma Chilometn SCfiolcri nntichi to Tfrindisi. TARANTO. 18. Route, 211 was a mere heap of ruins. About 1 M. to the N.W. of the station lie the ruins of a Boric Temple, dedicated to Apollo Lyceus, and called by the peasants Chiesa di Sansone; the columns are encased in stucco. — About 3 M. to the N.E. (horse 2-272 fr*) is another ancient Grcek*Temple in the Doric style, called Le Tav ole Paladin e by the peasants, who believe each pillar to have been the seat of a Saracen chieftain. Fifteen columns of the peristyle (ten on the N., five on the S. side) are still standing. The limestone of which they consist is now much disintegrated. — We may now return by the right bank of the Bradano. The neighbouring farm-houses (massarie), such as the Massaria Sansone, are built of massive blocks from the ancient walls of the town. On the coast are traces of a harbour now filled with sand. To the S.W. are rows of tombs which afford an idea of the great extent of the town. The proceeds of the excavations of 1880 are exhibited in the house behind the railway-station (adm. on previous application to the Guardia di Antichita at Bernalda, see above). They include a dedicatory inscription to Apollo Lyceus, which revealed the purpose of the temple ^ a fragment of a metope , some polychrome terracotta mouldings , and architectural frag- ments from the same temple^ a boar, in the archaic style, carved in sheet- bronze, etc. From Metaponto to Reggio, see R. 19. The railway from Metaponto to Taranto traverses a flat and monotonous district on the coast. The once fertile country is now very inefficiently cultivated (comp. p. 214). The train crosses sev- eral fiumare (p. 214). — 17572 M. Ginosa; 186 M. Chiatona. 196 M. TdrantO. — Hotels. Risorgimento, Piazza Fontana, i/s M. from the station^ Alb. Centrale, Piazza Fontana, with view of the Mare Piccolo, R. from 1 fr. 20 c. ^ Albergo Europa, Borgo Nuovo, on the Mare Piccolo commanding good views, R. 2V2-5, L. 1 / 2 , A. 1 / 2 , D* SVz fr. ^ Aquila d’Oro, adjacent, on the sea •, all with restaurants. Trattoria and Cafes. Caff^ Duilio, Strada Maggiore ; several Cafis in the Ringhiera, often crowded on Saturdays. Baths beside the Albergo Europa. Cab from the station to the town, 60 c. — Two omnibus-lines ply in the town; 1st cl. 15, 2nd cl. 10 c. British Vice-Consul, Fred. C. V. Paget, Esq. — Lloyd’s Agents, Fra- telli Cacace. Taranto, a town with about 40,000 inhab., is situated in the N. angle of the Gulf of Taranto , on a rock which divides the deep inlet here into the Mare Piccolo and Mare Grande and which is made an island by the canal at Porta di Lecce. The Mare Grande is bounded by the Capo S. Vito on the S.E. The ebb and flow of the tide is distinctly visible under the bridges which connect the island with the mainland, one of the few places on the Mediter- ranean where it is perceptible. The harbour is protected by two flat islands situated in front of it, the Choerades of antiquity, now S. Paolo (the smaller), occupied by a fort, and 8. Pietro. The entrance to the harbour is between S. Vito and S. Paolo, on each of which a lighthouse is situated. Towards the N.W. the passage is navigable for small boats only. 14 * 212 Route 18. TARANTO. From Naples Tarentum^ or Taras^ as it was called in Greek, founded to the W. of the mouth of the Galsesus by Spartan Parthenians under the guidance of Phalanthus, B. C, 707, gradually extended its sway over the territory of the lapygac, which was peculiarly suited for agriculture and sheep-farm- ing. (The sheep of this district wore coverings to protect their fleeces \ comp. Horace, Carm. II. 6, ‘ovibus pellitis Galesi’.) Excellent purple- mussels were also found here, so that the twin industries of weaving and dying sprang up side by side; and this town seems also to have furn- ished the whole of Apulia with pottery. Thus through its strong fleet, its extensive commerce and fisheries, its agriculture and manufactures Tarentum became the most opulent and powerful city of Magna Grsecia. The coins of the ancient Tarentum are remarkable for their beauty. In the 4th cent. B. C. the city attained the zenith of its prosperity, under the guidance of Archytas , the mathematician ; but at the same time its inhabitants had become notorious for their wantonness. In the war against the Lucanians Tarentum summoned to its aid foreign princes from Sparta and Epirus, and in its struggle with Rome it was aided by Pyrrhus (281), whose general Milo, however, betrayed the city into the hands of the enemy. In the Second Punic War the town es- poused the cause of Hannibal^ but was conquered in 209 by the Romans, who plundered it, carried off its treasures of art, and sold 30,000 of the citizens as slaves. In the time of Augustus Tarentum, like Naples and Reggio, was still essentially a Greek town, and its trade and industry were still flourishing (‘ille terrarum mihi praeter omnes angulus ridet’, Hor. Carm. II. 6). Subsequently it became quite Romanized. After the reign of Justinian the town, with the rest of S. Italy, belonged to the Byzant- ine empire. In 927 it was entirely destroyed by the Saracens, but in 967 it was rebuilt by Mcephorus Phocas, in consequence of which Greek once more became the common dialect. In 1063 Robert Guiscard took the town and bestowed it on his son Boemund. At a later period Frederick II. of Hohenstaufen built the castle of Rocca Imperiale. Philip.^ son of Charles II. of Anjou, was made prince of Taranto in 1301. The modern town, occupying the site of the Acropolis of the ancient city, which extended far towards the S. E., is the seat of an archbishop , a sub-prefect , and other dignitaries , and carries on a considerable traffic in oil, oats, and wheat. The population is densely packed in confined houses and nar- row streets. The town is intersected lengthwise by three streets. The Mare Piccolo is skirted by the Strada Garibaldi., inhabited chiefly by fishermen , whose language is still strongly tinctured with Greek and is often unintelligible to the other Tarentines. This street is connected by a number of lanes with the narrow Strada Maggiore , or main street , the chief business thorough- fare, which intersects the town from N.W. to S.E. The Strada Vittorio Emanuele, skirting the coast, affords a view of the bay and the mountains of Calabria, and forms a pleasant evening promenade. The now entirely modernised Cathedral of S. Cataldo was founded in the 11th century. It contains many antique columns. The chapel of the saint (an Irishman), adjoining the choir on the right, is sumptuously decorated. The crypt is closed. The tower commands a fine view (best in the evening). — The Castle., at the S. end of the town, and the other fortifications date from the time of Ferdinand of Aragon and Philip II. of Spain. to Brindisi. TARANTO. 18. Route. 213 The relics of the ancient city are scanty. The most important is a Doric Temple^ discovered by Prof. Viola, of which two in- complete columns may be seen in the court of the Congrega della Pietil (Strada Maggiore), and some fragments of the stylobate in the cellar. To judge from the heavy proportions of the columns and the narrow iiitercolumniation, this is one of the oldest extant examples of the Doric style. — Over the bridge connecting the town with the mainland to the N. of the Porta di Napoli runs a Roman aqueduct, 9^2 M. long, known as II Triglio. The S.E. gate of the town is named the Porta di Lecce. The canal which here unites the Mare Piccolo with the Gulf of Taranto is 295 ft. wide, and admits war-ships of the largest size. It is crossed by an iron swing-bridge. On the mainland towards the S.E., where the Tarentum of an- tiquity was situated , a new quarter , the Borgo Nuovo or Cittd, Nuova, is now springing up. The Museum in the former convent of S. Pasquale, in the mar- ket- place, contains the antiquities unearthed in the neighbourhood. Among the contents is pottery, some of rude workmanship and some ornamented with geometric designs, dating from the pre-Grecian inhabit- ants. The Corinthian vases and their imitations date from the Doric colonists. — The development of the Hellenistic plastic art from the severe style of the 6th cent. B.C. to the more florid taste of the 3rd cent. B.C. is illustrated in numerous votive statues and reliefs. — Among the more noteworthy objects are a few jewels, glass and ivory articles, two fine marble *Heads : Persephone or Aphrodite, from the end of the 5th cent., and Hercules, from the 3rd cent. B.C. ; and Hellenistic Reliefs of marine and land fights between Greeks and barbarians. Near the hospital are the remains of the Amphitheatre j with cellars. Beside the road to S. Lucia, near the sea, are large heaps of the purple-yielding mussel shells, dating from antiquity. In this neighbourhood is the Villa Beaumont- Bonelli(^g3iTdeneT 1/2 ^^0? with a good view, and farther on, M. from Taranto, stands the Villa Pepe, once the property of the celebrated Archbishop Capece- latro (d. 1816), who placed on it the inscription — ‘Si rursus heic peccasset Adam, forsitan Deus ignoscereP, and afterwards that of General Pepe. Although in a dilapidated condition, it still merits a visit, and is thus described by an old writer : — ‘This is one of the most charming spots in the neighbourhood. The Mare Piccolo looks like a broad lake. Gentle slopes, covered with olive- groves, rise in every direction. A fine view of Taranto and its towers, perched on a rock, is enjoyed hence, and still higher rise two magnificent palm-trees, the finest of which stands in the courtyard of the archiepiscopal residence. Gardens with oranges, lemons, figs, almonds, and pomegranates slope down from the town to the water’s edge, filling the air with their delicious fragrance’. From this point we obtain a survey of the extensive naval buildings, including the Arsenal, with docks 218 yds. long and 40 yds. broad, and the Mare Piccolo. The last is divided into two halves by the promontory II Pizzone, and the Punta della Penna. Excellent fish abound in this bay. They enter with the tide under 214 Route 18, TARANTO. the S. bridge, and are netted at night in great numbers. There are no fewer than 93 different species, and they are largely ex- ported in every direction. Shell -fish are also bred here in vast numbers (oysters and others called cozze , the best being the coc- cioli). The situation of the beds is indicated by stakes protrud- ing from the water. The traveller may visit them by boat (IV 2 fr. per hr.), and enjoy his oysters fresh from the sea (about 50 c. per doz. is sufficient recompense ; bread should be brought). The climate of Taranto is somewhat cold in winter, and not unbearably hot in summer. The honey and fruit of the neigh- bourhood are in high repute, as they were in ancient times. The date-palm also bears fruit here, but it seldom ripens thoroughly. In tlie district between Taranto, Brindisi , and Otranto thie venomous tardntola^ or tarantella-spider occurs. Its bite is said by the natives to cause convulsions and even madness, for which evils music and dancing are supposed to be effectual remedies. The latter belief gave rise to the curious tarantella-dancing mania, which was epidemic in S. Italy in the 15-17th centuries. From Taranto to Lecce (p. 202), diligence daily, via S. Oiorgio^ Sava^ Manduria (an old town with 9500 inhab.), and Gampi-Salentino. Flat country. From Taranto to Bari^ see p. 199. The railway describes a curve round the Mare Piccolo, and then turns to the E. — 2041/2 M. Monteiasi-Montemesola ; 208 M. Grot- taglio; 217 M. Francavilla-Fontana. — 221 M. Oria, the ancient Uria, from which the Doria family is said to derive its origin, a beautifully situated place with numerous palaces and a small museum (in the Biblioteca Municipale). 2201/2 M. Latiano; 231 M. Mesagne. 240 M. Brindisi^ see p. 200. 19. From (Naples) Metaponto to Reggio. 267 M. Railway in IOV 4 -I 772 hrs. (fares 48 fr. 60, 34 fr. 5, 21 fr. 90 c.). — From Naples to Reggio, 436 M., railway in 20-27 hrs. (fares 79 fr. 45, 55 fr. 65, 35 fr. 75 c.). — Through-tickets to Messina, Catania, and other places in Sicily include transport from the railway-station to the quay at Reggio and the steamer-fare to Messina. — The traveller should supply himself with refreshments for this journey, as the railway-restaurants are poor and few in number. Metaponto, see p. 210. — The railway crosses the Basento and skirts the Gulf of Tarentum. The soil is very fertile, but miserably cultivated. Although quite capable of yielding two crops annually with proper management, it is allowed, in accordance with the old- fashioned system prevalent here , to lie fallow for two years after each crop. In the marshy districts near Metaponto and at other parts of the line the railway company has surrounded the stations and many of the pointsmen’s and signalmen’s huts with plantations of the Eucalyptus Globulus , which have already proved extremely beneficial in counteracting the malarious influences of the district. The train crosses several fiumare (p. 228), which were confined SI BARI. 10. Route. 215 within embankments on the construction of the railway. The nu- merous watch-towers are a memento of the unsafe condition of the coast during the middle ages, which is also the reason of the distance of the settlements from the sea. 5 M. (from Metaponto") S. BasUio Pisticci , beyond which the train crosses the Cavone. 10 M. Scanzano Montalbano. We next cross the Agri^ the ancient Aciris. 13V2 M. Poiicoro^ near which lay the Greek town of Heraclea (founded by the Tarentines in 432), where Pyrrhus with the aid of his elephants gained his first victory over the Romans, B.C. 280. At Lwcc, in the vicinity, the celebrated bronze Tabula Heracleensis (Lex Julia Municipalis), now in the Museum at Naples (p. 59), was discovered in 1753. The train traverses a wood (Pantano di Policoro), full of the most luxuriant vegetation (myrtles , oleanders , etc.) , and near (20 M.) Nova Siri crosses the river Sinno, the ancient Siris. The line now approaches the sea. 221/2 M. Rocca Imperiale. The country becomes hilly. 26 M. Monte Giordano; 31 M. Roseto. To the left, on the coast, is a curious ruin. — The finest part of the line is between Roseto and Rossano. It commands a beautiful view of the precipitous Monte Pollino (7850 ft.) never free from snow except in summer, and of the broad valley of the Crati, at the head of which rise the pine- clad Sila mountains (p. 220). — 34 M. Amendolara ; 40^/2 M. Tre- bisacce (a good echo at the station); 47 M. Torre Cerchiara. 50 M. Sibari (^Rail. Restaurant., tolerable), formerly Buffaloria, whence the line mentioned at p. 219 diverges to Cosenza, derives its name from the ancient Sybaris (see below). Malarious district. The train now crosses the Crati, on which the wealthy and lux- urious Sybaris, founded B.C. 720 by Achaeans and Troezenians, and destroyed in 510 by the Crotonians , is said to have been situated. Excavations were begun in 1888. About 6 M. from this point, near Terranova, are the scanty ruins of Thurii, which was founded by the Sybarites after the destruction of their city. In 443 the Athenians sent a colony thither, and with it the historian Herodotus. Owing to the wise legislation of Charondas , Thurii soon at- tained to great prosperity. It formed a league with the Romans in 282, and was defended by C. Fabricius against the attacks of the Lucanians, but it was afterwards plundered by Hannibal. In 193 it received a Roman colony, and the new name of Copiae, but it rapidly declined, and was at length entirely deserted. 58 M. Corigliano Calabro. The town, with 11,000 inhab., lies on a height, 4 M. from the station. 651/2 M. Rossano. The town (Albergo & Trattoria Milanese, tolerable, R. from I1/2 fr*) 5 18,000 inhab., situated on a hill, and possessing quarries of marble and alabaster, is 5 M. dis- tant. This was the birthplace of St. Nilus. The archiepiscopal library contains a valuable 6th cent. MS. of the Gospels, engrossed on purple vellum and copiously illustrated. The train runs close to the sea through a mountainous district, 216 Route 19. COTRONE. From Metaponto and crosses the Trionto. Stations Mirto Crosia^ 8. Giacomo^ Pietra- paola, Campana, 7272 Cariati. Farther on, the train traverses pleasant plantations of olives, vines, and figs. Stat. Crucoli, Cirbj Torre Melissa^ and Strongoli. This last, a squalid village with 3000 inhab., situated on a hold eminence 4 M. from the station, and reached hy a bad road, was the ancient Poetelia, founded, according to tradition, by Philoctetes , and besieged by Hannibal after the battle of Gannas. 119 M. Cotrone (Albergo della Concordia^ at the entrance to the town; Alb. Favour; carriage from the station Lloyd’s Agents, Fr. Torromino 4’' Fo.)^ a thriving little seaport with 9700 inhab., situated on a promontory, was in ancient times the famous Achaean colony of Froton^ founded B.C. 710, which is said to have been able in 510 to send an army of 100,000 men into the field against Sybaris. After its great victory on that occasion, how- ever, Croton declined ; not long afterwards the citizens were de- feated by the Locrians on the river Sagras, and in 299 the town fell into the hands of Agathocles of Syracuse. During the height of the prosperity of the city, Pythagoras, who had been banished from Samos by the tyrant Polycrates , and was then in his 40th year, established himself at Croton. He attracted a band of dis- ciples and founded his brotherhood here, B.C. 540, but was at length banished in consequence of the jealousy of the citizens (comp. p. 210). On the way to the station are large storehouses for the fruit which is exported hence in considerable quantities. A visit should be paid to the old Fastle , dating from the reign of Charles V., the highest tower of which commands a fine view (admission by applying to an officer or sergeant). — A pleasant walk may be taken through the Strada Margherita to the harbour. Oranges and olives thrive admirably in the environs, and are largely exported. Liquorice is also a staple product. An intro- duction to a member of the Baracco family, which is all-powerful in this neighbourhood , will be found of great service (sometimes obtainable through the consuls at Naples). About 7 M. to the S.E. is the Capo delle Colonne^ or Capo Nao^ alow promontory, much exposed to the wind. (Route to it by land 2V2 hrs., very rough; boat 6-10 fr.) As the steamer rounds this cape, the eye is arrested by a solitary column, rising conspicuously on massive substruc- tures above the few modern buildings of the place. This is now the sole relic of the Temple of Hera of the Lacinian Promontory^ once the most revered divinity on the Gulf of Tarentum. The worship of Hera has been replaced by that of the Madonna del Capo^ to whose church, close to the tem- ple, a number of young girls from Cotrone (‘le verginelle’) go every Satur- day in procession, with bare feet. To the S.W. of this promontory are three others, the Capo delle Cimiti, the Capo Rizzuto.^ and the Capo Castella. Beyond Cotrone the train quits the coast, and traverses a hilly district. 12372 M. Pudano. — Near (12972 ^0 Futro it passes through a long tunnel (5 min.). Stations Isola- Fapo- Rizzuto^ Roc- cabernarda, Botricello^ Fropani, Sellia^ Simmeri. to Reggio. CATANZAUO. 19. Route. 217 160 M. Catanzaro- Marina ; about M. from the station is La Rocceletta^ the ruins of the mediaeval abbey of Roccella. — From the Marina a branch-line (5^2 25 min.) runs via S. Maria to Sala., the station for the loftily situated town of Catanzaro. Catanzaro. — Hotels. Albergo Roma, Centrale, both tolerable-, Albergo Europa. — Trattoria Centrale.^ in the Piazza. Farther along the Corso, Caf4 del Genio. Diligence at 6 p.m. to Tiriolo (p. 220) in connection with the diligences to Cosenza and Reggio. — i/wZe, 3-5 fr. a day. British Vice-Consul Signor P. Cricelli. — Lloyd’' s Agent ^ Vin. Bruno. Catanzaro., with 28,600 inhab. (including the suburbs), the capital of the province of the same name, prettily situated 8 M. from the sea, possesses numerous velvet and silk manufactories, and luxuriant olive-groves. The Cathedral contains a Madonna with S. Domenico, a good Venetian picture of the 16th century. Fine views are obtained from the campanile and from the Via Bellavista (N. side of the town). Near the castle is a small Provincial Museum (key at the prefecture, not always obtainable), containing coins, vases, and other antiquities from the Greek settlements of the district (fine *Helmet from Tiriolo; statuette of yEsculapius; among the pictures, a Lucretia by a Venetian master, and a Madonna by An- tonello Saliba, 1508). The Castle was built by Robert Guiscard. The climate is cool in summer, and snow often lies in winter. Many wealthy families reside here. The handsome Calabrian costume is still frequently seen here, particularly on Sundays. From Catanzaro to S. Eufemia, railway via Marcellinara and Nicastro., see p. 221. Beyond Catanzaro the line skirts the coast and passes through several promontories by means of tunnels. 160 M. Squillace, the ancient Scylaceumy is perched on an al- most inaccessible rock, 41/2 M. from the station and nearly opposite the lofty Monte Moscia, which here projects into the sea; it is not visible from the railway. Cassiodorius^ the private secretary of Theodoric the Great, was born at Scylaceum , and after the death of his master retired to his native place, where he founded a monastery , wrote a number of learned works, and died in 575, upwards of 90 years old. — To the N. of Squillace the Emp. Otho II. was defeated in July, 982, by the Arabs, who had crossed over from Sicily. He himself escaped almost by a miracle, and succeeded in reaching Rossano, where he met his consort Theophano. Otho did not long survive this reverse; he died at Rome in December, 983, and was interred in the old church of St. Peter. The train passes through the promontory by means of two tunnels. Stations: Montauro, Soverato, San Sostene^ SanC Andrea, Badolato, Santa Caterina , Monasterace Stilo (near which are iron-works), Riace. 1931/2 M. Caulonia. The river Alaro is supposed to be the Sagras of antiquity, where an army of 130,000 Crotonians is said to have been utterly routed by 10,000 Locrians. On this river lies Castelvetere, on the site of the ancient Achaean Caulonia, where Pythagoras sought refuge after his expulsion from Croton. 218 Route Id. GERAGE. 197 M. RoccelLa lonica^ with 6500 inhab.; the old town, with its ruined castle , is picturesquely situated on a rock overhanging the sea. — Near the station of (20172 M.) Oioiosa lonica is a small ancient amphitheatre. From this point the magnificent scenery resembles that of Greece. 204 M. Siderno Marina. 20772 Gerace (Alb. Locri, Via Garibaldi, R. I72 clean). The town, with 9600 inhab., and a cathedral, originally Romanesque, in which the antique columns are still extant, lies on the slope of a lofty spur of the Apennines, having risen from the ruins of Locro* Epizephyrioi, the once celebrated colony of the Locrians, founded B.C. 683, provided with a salutary code of laws by Zaleucus (664), and extolled by Pindar and Demosthenes for its wealth and love of art. The ruins of the ancient city near Torre di Gerace are now con- cealed by an orange-garden. The Passo del Mercante^ a mountain path, leads from Gerace through beautiful woods, and over the lofty Aspromonte , to Cittanova. The top of the pass commands a delightful view of the sea in both directions. Thence via Radicena to Qioia Tauro (p. 222) or to Seminara. 2V2 M. to the S.E. of Palmi (p. 222), about 37 M. in all. Ardor e^BovalinOjBianconuovo. Two tunnels. 228 M. Brancaleone. The line now skirts the Capo Spartivento^ the Pro- montorium Herculis of antiquity, the S.E. extremity of Calabria (station, 232 M.). Tunnel. 23QM. Palizzi. The train turns towards the W. and then nearly to the N. From this point to Pellaro the railway is bounded on the right by barren rocks and sand-hills intersected now and again by the stony beds of the mountain tor- rents, dry in summer and often overgrown with oleanders. Tunnel. Then : 23972 M. Bova; 242 M. Amendolea; 247 M. Melito. 253 M. Saline di Reggio. The train affords a view of the coast and mountains of Sicily, and rounds the Capo delV Armi, the Pro- montorium Leucopetrae, which was in ancient times regarded as the termination of the Apennines. Cicero landed here in B.C. 44, after the murder of Caesar, having been compelled by adverse winds to turn back from his voyage to Greece, and he was then per- suaded by citizens of Rhegium to go to Yelia, where he met Brutus. 256 M. Lazzaro; 260 M. Pellaro; 26372 M. S. Gregorio. 267 M. ReggiOj see p. 222. 20. From Sibari to Cosenza. 43 M. Railway in about 3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 80, 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 55 c.). Sibari, a station on the Naples and Reggio railway, see p. 215. — 6 M. Cassano al lonio, the station for Cassano (9000 inhab.), a beautifully situated town 5 M. to the N., with warm baths, and an ancient castle on a lofty rock. The castle affords a magnificent survey of the valleys of the Coscile and the Crati , the Sybaris and the Crathis of antiquity. The wild, barren limestone mountains rise here almost immediately from the plain , culminating in the COSENZA. '20. Route. 219 Monte Pollino. The Torre di Milo is pointed out here as the tower whence the stone was thrown that caused the death of T. Annins Milo, when he was besieging Cosa on behalf of Pompey. 10 M. Spezzano - Castrovillari ; Spezzano is 5 M. and Oastro- villari 9^2 M- to S. of the station (p. 208). Beyond (15 M.) Tarsia the train reaches the valley of the Crati , which it ascends, crossing several affluents of that river. Stations : S. Marco-Rog- giano, Mongrassano - Cervico, Torano - Lattarico^ Acri - Bisignano^ Montalto-Rose, and Rende-San Fill. To the W. are the Calabrian spurs of the Apennines. 43 M. CosenzQ. (^Albergo Excelsior j new; Alb. Vetere^ good cui- sine , rooms not scrupulously clean; Alb. Lionetti, with the good Trattoria Centrale), the ancient Consentia, once the principal city of the Bruttii, is now the capital of the province of Cosenza, with 16,700 inhab., and an archiepiscopal residence, containing well-built houses and palaces of wealthy landed -proprietors and manufacturers. It lies on the N. slope of a hill which separates the Crati from the Busento above the confluence of these streams. The town is commanded by a castle (fine view), the walls of which, though 9 ft. in thickness, have been unable to resist the shocks of earthquakes. Serious damage was sustained from the earthquakes of 1783, 1854, and 1870. Alaric, King of the Visigoths, died at Cosenza in 410, after he had plundered Rome and made an attempt to pass over into Sicily. His coffin and his treasures are said to have been buried in the bed of the river Buxentius (Busento). The site is unknown, but a tradition of Cosenza places it at the union of the Busento and the Crati, near the station. The Gothic Cathedral contains the tomb of Louis III. of Anjou, who died here in 1435, eighteen months after his marriage with Margaret of Savoy. The church is now being restored according to the ancient plans which have been rediscovered. — Near the Pre- fettura and the new Theatre are tasteful gardens. Here a monu- ment, with an allegorical figure of Liberty by Gius. Pacchioni of Bologna, was erected in 1879 to the Brothers Bandiera and other participators in the Calabrian rising of 1844. Farther on are several busts: to the right, Bernardino Telesio, the philosopher (d. 1588), to the left, Garibaldi, Cavour, Mazzini. — A picturesque footpath leads from the promenade up the valley of the Crati to the Castello (p. 219), which commands a fine view. The return may be made through the valley of the Busento, the entire walk taking about 1 hr. From Cosenza to Paola (p. 223), where the steamers touch three times weekly, a drive of 31/2 hrs. (seat in a diligence on these days 5 fr. 5 in summer at night only). From Cosenza to Nicastro, 30 M. After leaving Cosenza the road ascends gradually through a well - cultivated district. The heights are clothed with oaks and chestnuts. — 91/2 M. Rogliano, a town of 5500 in- hah., on a hill to the left, commands a charming view of the fertile country and the surrounding mountains, above which, on the right, rises the M. Co- 220 Route 21. PAOLA. From Naples cuzzo (5050 ft.). The road then descends into the ravine of the Savuio., the ancient Sabdtus ascends Le Crocelle di AgrifoUo.^ an abrupt ridge of the Apennines, and passes Carpanzano and Coraci. About 3 M. beyond Coraci the road leads to the right, and after about 9 M. reaches Nicastro (see p. 221). Another road leads to the E. from Cosenza to S. Giovanni in Fiori (diligence daily in 12 hrs.). Thence we may proceed by bridle-paths to Cotrone (p. 215). S. Giovanni is the principal place in the Sila (locally known as ‘Monte Nero’), a lofty and wooded range of mountains, ex- tending about 37 M. from N. to S., 25 M, from E. to W., attaining a height of 6325 ft., and embracing an extensive network of valleys. These moun- tains, which consist of granite and gneiss, are remarkable for their beauty and fertility; their slopes are studded with numerous villages (picturesque costumes), while higher up they are clothed with chestnuts, oaks, beeches, and pines. The E. and S. slopes descend to the Gulf of Taranto. In ancient times these mountains supplied the Athenians and Sicilians with wood for ship-building, and they were famed for their cattle. The snow does not disappear from the higher regions until the latter end of May or June , after which they afford a delightful summer abode to the natives with their flocks. This beautiful district, which has very rarely been explored by travellers , is still in a very primitive condition. Letters of introduction to influential inhabitants should be procured at Naples or Messina by intending explorers. The best months for the tour are July, August, and September. 21. From Naples via Battipaglia to Reggio. 272 M. Railway in 131/2-21 hrs. (fares 53 fr. 45, 37 fr. 45, 24 fr. 10 c.). — Steamers of the Navigazione Generale Italiana (comp. p. xvi) thrice a week (Tues., Thurs., Frid.), touching at the chief ports on the Calabrian coast, and taking 172-2 days in all. These steamers go on to Messina. Besides these boats, the same company despatches direct steamers to Mes- sina, taking 14-18 hrs. (fares 43 fr. 60, 27 fr. 60 c., incl. provisions). From Naples to Battipaglia^ ^57*2 M*? see pp. 158-163. — From Battipaglia to Pesto (Paestum)^ 13 M., see p. 164. — From Pesto the railway goes on to (61^2 M. from Naples) Ogliastro, the village of which name lies at a considerable distance to the left on the hill, (64M.) AgropoU, (77^/^M..^ Castelnuovo Vallo, (87^2 ^0 Pisciotta, (113 M.) Sapri^ and (I 251/2 M.) Praia d'Aieta, formerly the ter- minus of the railway. — The line is then carried along the coast by means of tunnels and viaducts, past numerous unimportant stations, to — 145 M. Paola (Oennaro ArcierVs Inn), with 8500 inhab., beau- tifully situated in a ravine and on the slope of the mountain. The town, which carries on an extensive oil and wine trade, is supposed by some to be the Palycus of the Greeks, and was the birthplace of S. Francesco di Paola, founder of the mendicant order of Minorites. — The Naples and Messina steamers touch here (see above). — Diligence for Cosenza, see p. 219. After leaving Paola the train passes the villages of (148^/4 M.) San Lucido, (154 M.) Fiumefreddo, and (160 M.) Belmonte, behind which rises the conspicuous Monte Cocuzzo (5050 ft.). — 162 M. Amantea , where the steamers from Naples to Messina touch (see above), is supposed to be the ancient Amantia of Bruttium. to Reggio. PALMI. 21. Route. 221 183 M. S. Eufemia, where the steamers from Naples to Messina (see p. 220) also touch, with a celebrated Benedictine monastery, founded by Robert Guiscard , but destroyed by the earthquake of 1638, is situated on the gulf of the same name. From S. Eufemia to Marcellinaka, I 6 V 2 M., railway in 1 hr. — 4 M. Sambiase. — 6 M. Nicastro, an episcopal town on the hillside, in the now ruined castle of which Frederick II. once for several years confined his son, the German king Henry VII., who had rebelled against him in 1235. The latter died at Martorano in 1242, and was buried at Cosenza. — 9^/4 M. Feroleto Antico. — I 6 V 2 M. Marcellinara. The continuation of the railway from Marcellinara to Catanzaro (p. 216) is in progress. Beyond S. Eufemia the railway runs along the Golfo di Santa Eufemia., at the S. end of which it reaches — 200 M. Pizzo, a small town with 8500 inhab., situated on a sand- stone rock on the coast. Below it are the ruins of the old castle where Joachim Murat, King of Naples, who had landed here the day before, was shot on 13th Oct., 1815. Outside the town is a Monu- ment to those who perished in the revolt of the brothers Bandiera (p. 219). — The Naples and Messina steamers touch here (p. 220). Beyond Pizzo we reach (201^/4 M.) Monteleone - Porto - San Venere, the station for Monteleone (Alb. d' Italia; Alb. Centrale)^ a loftily situated town with 12,000 inhab., about 1^/4 M. inland, on the site of the ancient Hipponion, the Vibo Valentia of the Romans. The old castle was erected by Frederick II. The road from Monteleone to (22 M.) Rosarno (see below) passes Mileto (Alb. di Prussia)., once the favourite residence of Count Roger of Sicily, whose son, King Roger, was horn here. Pop. 5000. It contains the ruins of the abbey of S. Trinitct founded by him, where his remains and those of his first wife Eremberga formerly reposed in two ancient sarcophagi which are now in the museum at Naples. From Mileto a mountain-path leads to the E. to the (5 M.) grand ruins of the once celebrated monastery of Santo Stefano del Bosco^ situated in a lonely valley at the foot of the Apennines. Near the neighbouring village of Soriano are the extensive ruins of the Dominican monastery of S. Do- menico Soriano., also destroyed by the earthquake of 1783; and, on the farther side of the low ridge of Monte Astore., the remains of the Certosa., in which St. Bruno established his austere order of Carthusians in 1094, and where he died and was interred in 1101 . 2071/2 M. Briatico; 214 M. Parghelia. — 216 M. Tropea^ a charm- ingly situated town with 6000 inhab., where the steamers from Naples to Messina touch twice a week. — 2201/2 M. Ricadi; 2251/2 M. loppolo. Beyond (229 M.) Nicotera we cross the Messina. — 234 M. Rosarno. 2401/2 M. Oioia Tauro (British vice-consul, Angelo Briglia), on the site of the ancient Metaurum^ a desolate-looking place, situated on the coast to the right, and an extensive depot of oil. — The line crosses the Marro, the ancient Metaurus, a river famed for its fish. 246 M. Falmi (^Vittoria, pens. 5 fr. , clean; Roma., rooms only; Trattoria Louvre, in the main street, fair; cab to the town 1 fr.), with 15,500 inhab., surrounded by orange and olive plantations, 222 Route 2/. REGGIO. From Naples and affording beautiful views of the coast and the island of Sicily, particularly from the Oiardino Puhblico. The town (450 ft.) is situated about halfway up the ’''Monte Elia, which is easily ascended in 1 hr. by a good path through olive-woods. The top commands a superb view of the Faro, the castle of Scilla, the town and harbour of Messina, and the majestic JEtna in the background. The N. coast of Sicily is visible as far as Milazzo ^ out at sea are Stromboli and the Lipari Islands ^ to the N. the bay of Gioia as far as Capo Vaticano. We may descend in 20 min. to the road leading from Palmi to Bagnara, at a point about 8 M. from the station of Bagnara (short-cuts for walkers). The line from Palmi to Reggio, traversing chestnut and olive plantations, with continuous views of the sea and coast, leads through one of the most beautiful regions on the Mediterranean, which, however, has suffered much from earthquakes (the last in Nov., 1894). The railway skirts the E. side of the Mte. Elia and descends to (252 M.) Bagnara. — M. Favazzina. 258 M. Scilla (Albergo di Baviera^ on the Marina), the ancient Scylla, with 8000 inhabitants. The castle, situated on a promon- tory commanding the town, ^nce the seat of the princes of Scilla, was occupied by the English after the battle of Maida (p. 221), and defended for 18 months (until 1808) against the French. Fine view of Sicily, across the Straits of Messina, here 3 M. broad. The silk and wine produced here enjoy a high reputation. Numerous swordfish (pesce spada) are caught here in July. Ascent of the AspromontCy see p. 223. The rock of Scylla , represented in HomePs Odyssey as a roaring and voracious sea-monster — a beautiful virgin above, and a monster with a wolfs body and dolphin’s tail below — , is depicted by the poets in conjunction with the opposite Charyhdis as fraught with imminent danger to all passing mariners. The currents and eddies in the straits are still very rapid, but it is now believed that the Charyhdis of the ancients is by no means exactly opposite to the whirlpool of Scylla, as the saying '’incidis in Scyllam^ cupiens vitare CharyhdiirC appears to indicate, but outside the harbour of Messina, 71/2 M. froni Scilla, at the point now called Garofalo (comp. p. 321). 261 M. Cannitello. — 2^2^12 M. Villa S. Giovsinni (* Trattoria)^ prettily situated. 265 M. Catona, opposite Messina (p. 313). We are now in a region of luxuriant vegetation, with oranges, pomegranates, palms, and aloes. — 267 M. Gallico; 268 M. Archi- Reggio ; 269 M. S. Ca- terina - Reggio ; 271 M. Reggio - Succursale. — 272 M. Reggio- Centrale. Reggio. — There are three Railway Stations here : Reggio Centrale.^ Reggio Succursale^ and Reggio Porto., the last for through-passengers to or from Messina. The express-train has through-carriages, which are run on to the steam ferry-boats. Hotels. *Albergo Centrale, Alb. del Genio, Alb. Caprera, well spoken of, all in the Corso Garibaldi. — Cafes: Spinelli.^ in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele ^ Giordano., Corso Garibaldi. British Vice-Consul, Edw. R. Kerrich, Esq. Carriages (stand in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele), per drive 80 c., at night 1 fr. 20 c. ; per hr. IV 2 fr., at night 2 fr. 20 c. Steamer to Messina every morning and evening, in about 1 hr., fares 4 or 3 fr. (pp. 214, 321) j embarcation and landing 25 c. (bargaining neces- to Reggio. REGGIO. 27. Route. 223 .sary)i the passage may also be made in one of the Naples mail-steamers, which cross several times weekly (landing or embarcation 50 c.). Reggio^ called Reggio di Calabria to distinguish it from Reggio neir Emilia, is the capital of the province of the same name, and an archiepiscopal residence, with 16,000 inhabitants. Known in antiquity as Rhegium^ it was originally an Euboean colony, and was peopled in B.C. 723 by fugitive Messenians. Rhegium soon rose to prosperity, but it also early suffered the hardships of war. In 387 B. C. the town was captured and destroyed by Dionysius I. of Syra- cuse, and in 270 B. C. by the Romans. In the middle ages it suffered the same fate, successively at the hands of Totila the Goth in 549, the Saracens in 918, the Pisans in 1005, Robert Guiscard in 1060, and the Turks in 1552 and 1597. The town was almost entirely destroyed by the great earthquake of 1783, and it therefore now presents a modern appearance, with its broad and handsome streets extending from the sea to the beautiful hills in the rear, which are studded with numerous and handsome villas. The Cathedral., a spacious basilica with pillars, dates from the 17th cent. ; the Cappella del Sacramento, to the left of the high- altar, is richly adorned with coloured marble. On the facade is a quotation from the Acts of the Apostles. — In the small piazza to the right, at the back of the cathedral, is the Museo Comunale, containing fine terracottas, lamps, statuettes, and vases (including a few very antique specimens and native examples with curious or- namentation) ; a relief of a woman dancing, of the 6 th cent. B. C., with its architectural framework painted black, red, and yellow; similar fragments of a later date, with elegant ornamentation on a bright red ground; mosaics, small bronzes, coins, inscriptions, etc. — Above the cathedral rises the Castello. In the piazza adjoining the railway-station is a statue of Gari- baldi. — A military band often plays in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which is embellished with a statue of Italia. — The Strada Reggio Campi, which runs along the heights behind the town, forms a charming promenade with varying views (especially fine by evening -light) of the environs and the Sicilian coast. The distance from Reggio to Messina is about 6^/4 M. Excursions. At tbe back of Reggio rises the imposing, forest-clad As- promonte, tbe W. extremity of the range which in ancient times bore the name of Sila; the highest point is the Montalto (6420 ft.). The summit is overgrown with beech-trees, the slopes partly with pines. Here, in the vicinity of Reggio , Garibaldi was wounded and taken prisoner by the Italian troops under Pallavicini, 29th Aug., 1862. The ascent, which is very laborious, is best undertaken from Villa S. Giovanni (p. 222) or from Scilla (p. 222 ; two mules and one guide for a day and a half 14 fr.). If possible the start should be made early on a moonlight night. The summit, which is reached in 9 hrs., commands an imposing view of the sea, the islands, and Sicily. To Scilla y see p. 222. — Ascent of the Mte. Elia., see p. 222. This excursion is best made by taking the train to Palmi, ascending the hill on foot in 1 hr., and descending through beautiful chestnut woods to Bag- nara in 3 hrs. 224 22. From Naples to Palermo by Sea. Steamers of the Navigazione Qenerale Italiana daily in the afternoon in 12-15 hrs. ^ fares 40 fr. 60, 25 fr. 60 c., including provisions (comp. pp. xvii, 26). — The passenger should be on deck early next morning to enjoy the beautiful approach to Sicily and the entrance into the harbour. Beyond Capri the steamer reaches the open sea. Early next morning the Lipari Islands (R. 33) are seen to the S. (left); later the island of Ustica (p. 276) to the W., long remaining visible ; then, about 10 a.m., the towering mountains of Sicily; to the extreme right is the Capo di Gallo, nearer rises Monte Pellegrino (2065 ft.; p. 268), and to the left is the Monte Catalfano (1230 ft.), with a smaller pointed promontory, guarding the E. entrance to the Bay of Palermo. At length we perceive the beautiful and exten- sive city. A little to the left of Monte Pellegrino are the lofty Monte Cuccio (3445 ft.), Monreale (p. 271), and farther distant the Monte Griffone. — Palermo, see R. 23. III. SICILY. Geography and Statistics 226 Historical Notice: 1. Political History 232 2. History of Civilisation and Art 238 23. Palermo 245 24. Environs of Palermo 267 a. Acquasanta. Monte Pellegrino. The Favorita . . 267 h. La Cuba. Monreale. S. Martino 269 c. Parco 272 d. S. Maria di Gesii. Favara. Campo Sant’ Orsola. . 273 e. Bagheria. Solunto 274 Island of Ustica 276 25. From Palermo to Trapani 276 From Calatafimi to Segesta 278 From Castelvetrano to Selinus 230 26. From Castelvetrano (Selinus) to Girgenti 288 From Palermo to Sciacca via Corleone 289 27. From Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle . . 290 28. Girgenti 293 29. From Palermo and Girgenti to Catania 298 From Castrogiovanni to Catania via Caltagirone . . . 302 30. From Girgenti to Syracuse via Cauicatti and Licata . 303 31. From Palermo to Messina by the Coast 307 32. Messina 313 33. The Lipari Islands 322 34. From Messina to Catania. Taormina 325 35. From Giarre to Catania round the W. side of the iEtna 332 36. Catania 335 37. Mount jEtna 340 38. From Catania to Syracuse 347 39. Syracuse 349 Plan of Tour. The best seasons for travelling in Sicily, that ‘gem among islands’ without which, as Goethe says, Italy would lose much of its distinction, are the months of April and May, or October and November. Even in January the weather is often fine and settled (comp. pp. 230. 231). The ascent of ^Etna in spring is possible, but the best period is August or September, after the first showers of autumn have cleared the atmos- phere. The principal points in the island may be visited in a fortnight or three weeks without divergence from the railway. The following distri- bution of time may be followed : — At Palermo 3-4 days ; the towns in the ’W. part of the island (Segesta^ Selinus, Mazzara, Marsala, Trapani) 4-5 days (Segesta and Selinus alone 2-3 days); from Palermo via Termini to Cefalu 1 day, back via Termini and Roccapalumba to Girgenti, 1 / 2 T day; at Girgenti 1 day; from Girgenti to Catania 1 day; Catania and Mt. jEtna 2 days ; at Syracuse V /2 day ; at Taormina 1 day ; at Messina, with excur- sions to Reggio or Palmi 2 days. The best mode of exploring the very picturesque N. Coast is indicated at p. ^7. — Travellers with limited time Baedeker. Italy III. 12th Edition. 15 LIBKAKY Olivet Nazarene College KANKAKEE. ILL. 226 SICILY. Geography should begin at Messina and return to Naples from Palermo, as this is the only route with daily steamers. The most energetic of travellers, however, will take at least a month to exhaust the beauties of the island. The following routes are the most important: — At Palermo 4-5 days-, from Palermo to Messina via Cefalu, Milazzo, and Tyndaris, 3 days ^ Messina^ with excursions as above, 2-3 days ; Taormina 1 day; Catania and JEtna 3 days; stay at Syracuse 2-3 days; by railway or steamer to Girgenii; at Girgenti 1 day; by land in 2 days to Sciacca^ Selinus^ and Castelvetrano ; thence by Calatafimi (Segesta) in 1 day, or, if Marsala and Trapani he included, in 4 days, to Palermo. Geography and Statistics. Sicily (Greek Sikelia or Trinacrid), the largest island in the Mediterranean, called by Strabo, the Greek geographer, in one passage an ‘addition to’, in another a ‘detached portion of^ Italy, has an area of about 25,800 sq. kilometres, i. e. about 10,000 Engl, sq. M. This irregularly triangular island forms a continuation of the great Apennine range which stretches across the Mediterranean from the main trunk of Europe to Africa, a submerged prolongation of the range being also distinctly traceable. The distance between Cape Boeo and Cape Bon is only 75 M., and the depth in the direct line never exceeds 100 fathoms, except in one narrow belt running S.E. towards the island of Pantellaria (248 fathoms), while the Straits of Pantellaria, separating Sicily from Africa, are as a rule not more than 50 fathoms deep. This submerged elevation is probably of volcanic origin (comp. p. 382). To the N. of Sicily lies another volcanic tract, the eruptions of which have produced the Lipari Islands, The S.E. portion of the island of Sicily is of the tertiary formation, and is connected with the Malta Islands by a submarine table-land. The virtual W. apex of Sicily is formed by Maritimo, the westernmost of the Aegadian Islands, which lie in shallow water. The Straits of Messina are only 2 M. wide at their narrowest point, and at their shallowest part (near the same point) 51 fathoms deep, while on the N. and E., on the contrary, the shores of the island descend abruptly into the deepest parts of the Mediterranean, a sounding of no less than 2000 fathoms having been made within about 30 M. of Cape Passero, Mountains. Sicily may be roughly described as a table-land of a mean level of 2300-2800 ft., somewhat tilted towards the N., and higher at the edges than in the interior. The loftiest of the non- volcanic summits are towards the N., where a range of mountains runs from the Straits of Messina along the coast , forming a pro- longation of the Apennine range which traverses the Italian pen- insula. The continuity of the chain remains unbroken as far the valley of Polizzi, a place of historical interest, whence the Himera Septentrionalis (Fiume Grande) flows N. to the Tyrrhenian, and the Himera Meridionalis (Fiume Salso) S. to the African Sea. and Statistics. SICILY. 227 Scientillc geographers apply the names of Peloric Mountains to the E. extremity of this chain, and Nehrodic Mountains to the rest (the Montes Pelorides and Montes Neptunii of the ancients). The W. part of the Nehrodic range is the only one which has received a distinguishing name from the natives, who call it the Madonie. Its highest summits are the Pizzo delV Antenna (6480 ft.), the loftiest mountain in the island after ^tna, and the Monte Salvatore (6265 ft.), both covered with snow during one half of the year. To the W. of the important watershed of the two Himeras the moun- tains also form a chain or range, though as we proceed towards the W. single mountains or isolated clusters become more prominent, till they end at last in the pyramid of Monte S. Giuliano^ the ancient Eryx, rising precipitously from the sea and standing like a gigantic sentinel to guard the W. coast of the island. — The mountains on the N. coast, with the ramifications extending to the Eryx and the Monte San Calogero near Sciacca, belong to the secondary formations, and consist chiefly of calcareous limestone. This limestone is perforated by numerous caverns, in which the bones of huge pachydermata, denizens of the country before its separation from the African con- tinent, and various prehistoric antiquities are frequently found. — The Peloric range and the mountains of the N. coast from Messina to Cape Calava are composed of crystalline rocks of the primary formations, but their bases are overlaid with strata of recent tertiary deposits, so that the older formation seldom comes to light on the coast itself. The identity of the geological structure of this part of the island with that of Calabria is a proof of the intimate connec- tion between Sicily and the Italian peninsula. The rock of Scylla (p. 222) , visible from the Faro , and the peninsula of Milazzo (p. 311), are both formed of fine-grained granite and gneiss. The S. margins of the Peloric Mts. and of the Aspromonte (p. 219) consist of clay-slate. In the S. E. corner of the island is a mountainous district of a very peculiar geological character, united with the N. mountain- systems only by a narrow ridge near Caltagirone. In the heart of it rises the Monte Lauro (3230 ft.), whence rivers descend in all directions through profound ravines, the sides of which reveal the inner geological structure of the mountains. While the sur- face of the mountain consists chiefly of light-coloured tertiary shell-limestone , this formation alternates lower down with strata of dark volcanic rock. Nearly the whole remainder of the island, particularly the districts in the middle, and to the S.E., S., and S.W., is also composed of the tertiary formation. To this formation, represented mainly by marl, clay, and gypsum, belong extensive deposits of sulphur and rock-salt, the first of which contribute so materially to Sicily’s wealth and prosperity, while the latter are as yet almost untouched. The tertiary formations in Sicily attain a most unwonted altitude; the huge rock on which lies Castro- 15 * 228 SICILY. Geography giovanni, the historical Enna (p. 299), rears its head no less than 3270 ft. above the level of the sea. Mt, Mtna (10,870 ft.), the loftiest mountain in Sicily and the largest volcano in Europe, rises on the E. side of the island, and is completely detached from the other mountains. The district in which this great volcano rises has evidently been at one time a hay of the sea, still recognisable in the plain of Catania. The mountain is capped with snow throughout the year, except during a few weeks in summer, while in some of the gullies the snow never melts entirely. The Coasts of Sicily are as a rule steep and rocky, short reaches of flat coast being found in the gulfs of Catania and Terranova, and to the S. of Trapani only. A peculiarity of the Sicilian coast is found in the numerous narrow peninsulas lying in front of it, which have only in comparatively recent times ceased to he islands, and which almost invariably form good harbours. Of this nature are the peninsulas of Syracuse^ Augusta^ Trapani^ and Milazzo. The strikingly picturesque Monte Pellegrino^ near Palermo, was at one time an island off the coast , and the sickle-shaped piece of land which forms the harbour is also of very recent geological formation. To these capacious natural harbours falls to be added the artificial one of Palermo , the somewhat inadequate successor of the famous ancient harbour, which has been gradually silted up during the geological elevation of the W. coast of Sicily. The same cause has rendered the fine harbour of Trapani almost useless. The S. coast is perfectly destitute of natural harbours, and there- fore unapproachable in stormy weather; but artificial harbours have recently been*constructed at great expense at Porto Empe- docle and Licata. The Rivers of Sicily are very numerous, but none of them are large , and with a few exceptions they all dry up in summer. The district of primary formations in the N. E. of the island does not contain a single perennial water-course , but many broad Fiu- mare , or river-beds , filled after heavy rain with turbulent and destructive torrents, which refuse to be confined within embank- ments, often causing widespread devastation. The stony beds of the ‘flumare’ are sometimes upwards of ^2 M. wide at the mouth, and even in winter are traversed by a mere thread of water only. The numerous streams towards the S.E., which take their rise in the porous, honeycombed limestone hills, are, on the other hand, comparatively copious in the lower part of their course. None of the rivers are navigable. (In the Map at the end of the Handbook the watercourses which dry up in summer are coloured brown, and those which contain water throughout the whole year are blue.) The splendid Forests with which Sicily was originally covered, and which yielded the admirable ship-building timber mentioned so often in the days of the Greek and Saracenic domination, have and Statistics. SICILY. 229 been disappearing so rapidly under the axe of the woodman since tlio 16th cent., and especially since the beginning of this cent., tliat it is estimated that no more than 4 per cent of the area of the island is now under wood. In the 11th cent, the Monte Lauro was still clothed with forests of pines and fir, and in the 15th cent, the Monte Pellegrino, now conspicuous for its baldness, was clothed with underwood. The only considerable forests are those of ^tna and the mountains on the N. coast, the finest of which are the Caronian Forest and the Bosco di Ficuzza on the Busambra. These woods consist of oaks, chestnuts, elms, ashes, etc., and are carpeted with thick green underwood like the woods of Central Europe , while others nearer the coast and in lower situations con- sist mainly of isolated evergreen oaks {Quercus Ilex, Quercus Suber, etc.). Pine-forests are found in the iEtna region only. The Macchie^ a kind of thicket of dense , almost impenetrable , and often thorny bushes, 5-6 ft. high, peculiar to the regions of the Mediterranean, and growing on the denuded sites of former forests , are less com- mon in Sicily than in neighbouring lands. Products and Cultivation. The current impression that only a small portion of the area of Sicily is cultivated , is quite er- roneous. In 1857 it was estimated that about 200,000 acres only were unproductive, and 1,600,000 acres under pasture, leaving 5,500,000 acres, or 3/4 of the whole area, under cultivation. Since that date, moreover, probably about one-half of these unproductive lands have been reclaimed. The cultivation of the soil was formerly restricted almost entirely to the production of wheat, but the more lucrative culture of trees, especially of the Citri (the generic term for oranges, lemons, and citrons), is now assuming ever-increasing proportions. The orange and lemon harvest lasts from November to March, but the fruit does not thoroughly ripen till January. These fruits are cultivated most sedulously on the N. coast from Partinico to Messina, and on the E. coast as far S. as Catania. This branch of agriculture is interesting, not only from an economical but also from a social and moral point of view. The constant attention which the Citri de- mand renders it impossible for the agricultural labourers to live in crowded villages, often at a considerable distance from their daily work ; so that this branch of agriculture tends to a more equal distri- bution of the population, and contributes to improve their moral condition. The people are now beginning to descend from their rocky nests (p. 232) and settle among the fields. More than one- fifth of the whole island is now devoted to the cultivation of trees of various kinds, the products of which are exported to the value of 140,000,000 fr. annually, a sum that will appear still more con- siderable when it is remembered that nine-tenths of the islanders themselves subsist entirely on wheaten bread, fruit, and fish. Another prevalent error with regard to Sicily is that its fertility 230 SICILY. Geography has decreased. Rain still falls in sufficient quantity to make the fruits of the field as plentiful now as of yore , in spite of the poor agricultural implements and the want of manuring. Wheats Barley^ and Beans, which form almost the only crops, cover all the avail- able level districts in the island. The concentration of the pop- ulation in a few large villages, the peculiarity of the farm-tenure, the inferiority of the agricultural implements, and the occasional deficiency of hands, are unfavourable to the agricultural prosperity of the country. The fields on the N. and E. coasts, like those in Sardinia and N. Africa, are enclosed by Cactus-hedges (Opuntia ficus Indica and Opuntia Amyclaea) , which frequently attain a considerable height. Their fruit , the cactus-fig , of a sweetish, somewhat insipid taste, is much esteemed by the natives, who in autumn use it to a considerable extent as a substitute for bread. Sumach [Rhus coriaria, the leaves of which are used in tan- ning and as a black dye) and Linseed are among the staple ex- ports. Other products exported, besides the Citri and their es- sential oils, are almonds, olive oil, wine (Marsala, Riposto, Ca- tania, Yittoria , and Siracusa) , nuts , capers , pistachios , manna, liquorice, lentils, and raisins. The chief animal products are silk, hides, wool, anchovies, tunny-fish, and cantharides. Mineral pro- ducts : sulphur, salt, and marble. The island possesses no mines of the precious metals or of coal. Climate. The climate of Sicily, apart from the not unfrequent storms of winter, is a most delightful one, and in equableness is second to that of Madeira alone. This is especially true of the climate of Palermo, which is rapidly coming into favour as a winter residence for invalids. Catania is somewhat colder in winter, and is moreover exposed to sudden changes of temperature on account of the proximity of Mt. ^tna. Messina and Syracuse are windy places. In Sicily the year consists of two seasons only , the rainy and the dry. The Rainy Season corresponds with the winter of Cen- tral Europe, and is marked by a fall of temperature. The freezing- point , however, is seldom reached , except occasionally just be- fore dawn , and there are few winter days when one cannot sit comfortably in the open air in a sheltered situation. The rainy season is at the same time that of the most luxuriant vegetation. It is ushered in by thunder-storms in September and October, sets in steadily in November, generally relaxes somewhat in Jan- uary, ends towards the close of March , and is followed by a few violent thunder-storms in April and May. In June, July, and Au- gust, but particularly in July, almost no rain falls, but the heat is tempered by the proximity of the sea. The heaviest rainfall occurs in December, next to which are February and March. Continuous rain is, however, rare, and there are seldom more than five days in the month absolutely without sunshine. The average rainfall is and Statistics. SICILY. 231 about 22 inches per annum; in the S.R. it is rather less, and near ^Ltna and] among the N. mountains rather more. The Winds also vary in accordance with these two divisions of the year. From October to March the rainy W.S.W. wind, blowing from the equatorial regions , prevails ; from May to August the prevalent wind blows from the N.E., forming a continuation of the trade-winds from beyond the N. pole ; while in April and September these winds blow alternately. The Scirocco^ one of the hot periodical storm-winds , which blow from the Sahara in all directions, is among the few drawbacks to the climate of Sicily. It visits Palermo, where it is particularly disagreeable, about twelve times a year, and may occur in any month, though it is most fre- quent and most violent in April and the short transitionary seasons generally. On the E. coast it is generally charged with moisture, but at Palermo it is hot and dry. During its continuance the sky is of a dull, leaden appearance, often with a tinge of red, oc- casioned by the columns of dust which the storm frequently brings with it from a long distance. If rain falls, these fine par- ticles of dust occasion the phenomenon known as ‘blood rain’, which may be easily collected on the foliage of the trees. The effect of the scirocco, often less felt at first by visitors from the N. than by the natives, is to occasion a difficulty of breathing and lassitude, which unfit one for work, especially of a mental nature. The scirocco, however, often lasts for a few hours only, and rarely for more than three days. One of the great advantages of the climate of Sicily arises from the comparatively slight difference in the temperature of the differ- ent seasons. The heat Palermo in summer is less than at Milan or Florence, while the winters are remarkably mild and equable. The mean temperature in August, the hottest month, is 78” Fahr., and in January, the coldest month, 52”, the difference being 26” only, while the mean annual temperature is about 64”. The lowest temper- ature yet recorded at the observatory at Palermo has been 36”. During December, January, February, and March the thermometer remains at almost the same level, and abrupt changes are very rare. Catania has almost the same mean annual temperature as Palermo, but in summer it is warmer, and in winter colder. The daily range of temperature in August is 47”, in January 45” ; but a difference of 74” has been noticed within 24 hours, to be explained by the proximity of the snow-fields of ^tna. Messina and Syracuse are too much exposed to winds to be taken into account as health-resorts. In spite of those climatic advantages, the traveller in winter must be on his guard against the very abrupt differences of temper- ature in passing from the sun into the shade, and also against the very rapid fall of temperature in wet weather. For Palermo, see p. 247. The Population of the island at the end of 1892 was 3,364,940, or on an average 335 per Engl. sq. M. The principal towns are 232 SICILY. Historical Palermo, Messina, Catania, Modica, Trapani, Termini, Acireale, and Caltagirone. Of the 120-130 towns in the kingdom of Italy which contain above 10,000 inhah. upwards of one-quarter belong to Sicily. This is explained by the fact, that, owing to the con- stant wars of the middle ages, the predatory incursions of bar- barians, and the insecure state of the country, it was unsafe for the peasantry to live in villages, and this class has therefore mainly contributed to swell the population of the towns. Historical Notice.^ 1. Political History. First Period. According to the traditions of ancient Greek mariners, Sicily was once inhabited by Cyclopes, Gigantes, Loto- phagi, Laestrygones, etc., whom Sicilian historians have endeav- oured to classify into iron-workers, stone-workers, farmers, and gardeners. The most ancient inhabitants of Sicily were a prehistoric race, the only certain traces of whom are the flint implements found in various parts of the island and perhaps a few of the stone monuments. They were followed by the Sicani^ who were believed by some authorities to be of Iberian, by others of Celtic origin. It is more probable, however, that they belonged to an Italian race. They dwelt at first in the E. part of the island , but within the period embraced in history are found only in the W., between the Tyrrhenian Sea (Hykkara) and the Libyan Sea. The deserted terri- tory of the Sicani to the E. was taken possession of before B.C. 1000 by the Sikeli, a tribe related to the Latins, which, as some authorities believe, had already had a warlike history and made maritime raids upon Egypt. They dwelt in the S.E. corner of the island, in the middle of its E. half, especially in the valley of the Symaethus, and on the N. coast. Their principal towns were: S, Hybla, Menae (Mineo), Morgantium^ N. Hyhla (Paterno), Centuripe, Agyrion (Agira) , Assorus (Asaro) , Aluntium (S. Marco) , and Agathyrnum (near C. Orlando). The Phoenicians^ coming from the E., founded numerous colonies on the coast, and the Elymi^ supposed to be descended from the Trojans, occupied Segesta, Eryx (with the sanctuary of Aphrodite), Entella^ and other settlements. The Greeks make their appearance in Sicily in B.C. 735, when the Ionian Theocles of Chalcis (or Athens) founded Naxos, at the mouth of the Cantara. During the following year Dorians from Corinth under Archias founded Syracuse ; and in 728 Megara Hy- hlaea, another Dorian colony, was settled by Lamis of Megara. Zankle (afterwards Messana) was peopled by lonians , who also founded Leontinoi and Catana (729). A Dorian character was t See.fi’. A. Freeman's short history of Sicily in the ‘Story of the Nations Series’ (1892) and his large, unfinished ‘History of Sicily’ (vols. I-IH, 1891-92). Notice. SICILY. 233 impressed upon the S. coast by the foundation of (Terranova) by lUiodians and Cretans in 689, of Selinus by Megara in 628, and of Acragas (Girgenti) by Gela in 581. The Dorians also made themselves masters of the S.E. corner of Sicily through the Syra- cusan colonies of -4crae(664), Casmenae (624), and Camarina (599). Himera (648), the only Greek colony on the N. coast, was a joint settlement, in which the Ionian element preponderated. The oc- cupation of the Lipari Islands in B.G. 580 marks the close of the spread of the Hellenic power in Sicily, and the beginning of the Semitic reaction. The Phoenicians, who on the approach of the Greeks had retired to Solus (or Soloeis^, Panormus, and Motye^ now placed themselves under the protection of Carthage and thus imposed a check upon the farther progress of Hellenisation. The Sikelians in the E. part of the island, however, became almost entirely subject to the Greeks. The Greek colonies , as they grew in population , soon began to suffer from internal dissensions between the different classes of citizens. This led to the formation of codes of law, of which that of Charondas of Catana is the most famous, and to the establishment of tyrannies , a form of government which attained its most char- acteristic development in this island. The most notorious of the ancient tyrants was Phalaris of Acragas. About the year 500 we find tyrants ruling over most of the cities, of whom Gelon of Syracuse and Theron of Acragas, united by ties of family and interest, rescued the Greek sway from the perils which threatened it, when, at the time of the 2nd Persian War, the Greeks of the western sea were attacked by the Carthaginians. In 480, however, the Greek cause was victorious at the battle of Himera, the Salamis of Sicily. The short but brilliant golden age of Hellenic Sicily now began, sullied only by the destruction of the Chalcidian towns of the E. coast by Gelon and Hiero. The greater number of the temples and aqueducts at Syracuse, Girgenti, Selinus, Himera, etc., the ruins of which excite such admiration at the present day, were erected between 480 and 450. But internal municipal struggles, fomented by the demo- cratic parties of the different cities, and the renewed antagonism of the Doric and lonic-Achsean elements paved the way for a cata- strophe, to which the great Athenian campaign against Syracuse in 413 contributed. Previously to this the Greeks had a formidable enemy to subdue in Ducetius of Netum(Noto), who united the towns of the Sikeli in a confederacy against the Greeks (461-440), but this league was compelled to succumb to the united forces of Syracuse and Acragas. What the Sicilians had failed in effecting was now attempted with more success by the great power of Africa. The Carthaginians began their most formidable attacks. Selinus and Himera were destroyed by them in 409 , Acragas taken in 406, Gela and Camarina conquered and rendered tributary to Carthage in 405, and Messana razed to the ground in 396. These events were 234 SICILY. Historical instrumental in causing tlie rise of Dionysius I. in Syracuse (406), who extended and fortified the town, and after a war of varied success finally drove back the Carthaginians in 382 to the Halycus (Platani). Down to his death in 367 Dionysius was master of the destinies of Syracuse, and with it of Sicily; the greater part of Magna Graecia was also subject to his sway, and he even intervened several times with effect in the affairs of Greece itself. Syracuse never again attained to such a pinnacle of power. On his death dissensions began anew. Dionysius II. was inferior to his father, and Dion able as a philosopher only. Timoleon^ however, succeeded in 343-336 in restoring some degree of order, defeated the Carthaginians in 340 on the Crimissus (Belice), and again restricted their territory to the W. of the Halycus. But even his brilliant example availed little to arrest the increasing degeneracy of the people. In 317-289 Agathocles usurped the sovereignty of Syracuse, and in 310 the Carthaginians besieged the city, although unsuccessfully. The brilliant African campaign of Agathocles was without enduring re- sult. Pyrrhus too, who had wrested the whole island as far as Lily- bseum from the Carthaginians, soon quitted it again for Italy (278- 276), dissatisfied with the prevailing anarchy and disunion. In 274 Hiero II. usurped the tyranny of Syracuse. His siege of Mes- sana, of which Campanian mercenaries, or Mamertines, had treach- erously taken possession , compelled the latter to sue for Roman aid. Thus it was that the Romans obtained a footing in the island, and the struggle between them and the Carthaginians, who had supported Hiero, now began. The chequered contest for the sover- eignty of Sicily lasted from 264 to 241. Hiero, who in 263 had become an ally of Rome, ruled over a small independent kingdom on the E. coast, even after the final expulsion of the Carthaginians. After the death of Hiero II. his successor Hieronymus espoused the cause of Hannibal, in consequence of which Syracuse was besieged by Marcellus in 214-212, taken, and sacked. In 210, after the conquest of Agrigentum , the island became the first Roman pro- vince, and was divided into two districts or qusesturae, Lilybaetana (with the capital Lilybseum, now Marsala) and Syracusana. Second Period. At first the Romans endeavoured to improve the agriculture of the island, which had suffered seriously during the protracted wars, with a view to render Sicily a more profitable province. The system of cultivation borrowed from the Carthagin- ians was indeed successfully employed in rendering Sicily the granary of Italy, but at the same time it proved the occasion of the Servile Wars (139-131 and 104-101), which devastated the island to a greater extent than the Punic wars. Under the Roman governors the ancient prosperity of Sicily steadily declined. The notorious Yerres in particular impoverished it greatly during his term of office in 73-71. The civil war between Octavianus and Sextus Pompeius, who had made himself master of Sicily (43-36) Notice. STCTLY. 235 but was defeated by Agrippa in the naval battle of Naulochus (on the N. coast, near Mylse), also accelerated its ruin, so that Augustus was obliged in a great measure to repeople the island and re-erect the towns. Little is known of its internal affairs after this date. With regard to the dissemination of Christianity in Sicily numer- ous traditions are current, and are preserved in the different mar- tyrologies. It is recorded (Acts xxviii. 12) that St. Paul landed at Syracuse on his journey to Rome and spent three days there, and the evidence of monuments goes to confirm the local legends of missionaries from the E., and to refute the later pretensions of Rome to the establishment of Christianity in Sicily. Syracuse would thus seem to have taken an important part in the spread of the Christian religion. After the end of the 3rd cent, the new religion made rapid progress, and in the reign of Constantine it had become practically the universal faith, though heathens still existed in Sicily down to the 6th century. After another servile war had devastated the country (A.D. 259), Syracuse began, in 278, to suffer from the incursions of bar- barian hordes, when it was plundered by a mere handful of wan- dering Franks. In B.C. 27 Sicily had become the first of the ten senatorial provinces , according to Augustus’s distribution of the empire, and then a province of the diocese of Italy, according to the arrangement of Diocletian ; but in 395 it was separated from the W. and attached to the E. empire, whereby it escaped the fate of neither. In 440 Genseric besieged Palermo and conquered Lily- bseum (Marsala). Odoacer made himself master of Sicily, and the island afterwards became subject to the Ostrogoths. In 535 Belisarius brought it under the sway of the Eastern emperors, who retained it till its conquest by the Arabs. — The Romish church had great possessions in Sicily, and Pope Gregory I. was a zealous promoter of the cultivation of the island. Constans II. even transferred the seat of the E. empire to Syracuse in 663, but he was murdered there in 668, and the city was plundered by the Arabs the following year. Third Period. In 827 the Saracens^ under Ased-ibn-Fordt, on the invitation of the governor Euphemius, landed near Mazzara. Four years later Palermo fell into their hands, and that city now became the capital , and swayed the destinies of the island. The Saracens, conquering one city after another, overran the whole is- land, and in 878 Syracuse was taken by Ibrahim- ibn ^ Ahmed. Although the Christians could now maintain themselves in the N.E. angle of the island only, and even there were deprived of Taormina in 902, and finally of Rametta in 965, yet the establish- ment of a lasting peace was rendered impossible by the antagonism between their Arabian and Berber conquerors, which continually led to sanguinary conflicts. To these evils were added the changes of dynasty. At first the Aghlabites of Kairvan ruled. Then Sicily 236 SICILY. Historical became an independent emirate under the Fatimite Sovereigns of Egypt. The latter half of the 10th cent, was the most prosperous period of Sicily under the Mohammedan sway. But the sanguinary struggles of the Sunnites and Shiites in Africa, where the Zirites had usurped the supremacy, were soon transplanted hither, and the insurrection of several cities accelerated the downfall of the Arabian dynasty. In spite of these unfavourable circumstances, the prosperity of the island had during this period considerably increased, and agriculture, industry, and commerce had progressed so greatly that the Norman conquerors found the island a most valuable acquisition. About the middle of the 11th cent., after an ineffectual at- tempt to conquer the island had been made by George Maniaces, a Greek, in 1038-41, Robert and Roger de Hauteville, sons of Tancred of Hauteville in Normandy, went to Italy on the invit- ation of their elder brothers , who had declared themselves Counts of Apulia. Robert, subsequently surnamed Ouiscard, i.e. ‘the Shrewd’, compelled the pope to invest him with the Duchy of Apulia, and then, after Ibn-Thimna of Syracuse had already in- voked his aid, proceeded from Mileto with his brother Roger to con- quer Sicily in 1061. The first expedition did not immediately produce the desired result. But ten years later they returned, and by 1090 the entire island was subdued. The line of Robert Guiscard having become extinct in 1127, the second son of Roger, Count Roger //., united the whole of the Norman conquests under his sceptre, and caused himself to be crowned as king at Palermo in 1130. During his reign Sicily prospered, and its fleets conquered the Arabs and the Greeks, from whom they wrested a portion of ancient Greece (Romania). He was succeeded by his second son William (1154-66), surnamed by the monkish and feudal chroni- clers ^the Bad\ who was followed by his son William II. ^ Hhe Good’ (d. 1189). After the death of the latter a contest as to the succession arose. William II. had given his aunt Constance^ daughter of Roger, to Henry F/., son of Frederick Barbarossa, in marriage, and that monarch now laid claim to the crown. The Si- cilians, however, declared themselves in favour of Tancred of Lecce, a natural son of Roger. On his death shortly afterwards he was succeeded by his son William III., whom Henry VI. had less diffi- culty in subduing (1194). Henry did not long enjoy his conquest, and died at Messina in 1197. He was succeeded by the Emperor Frederick II., as Frederick I. of Sicily, whose exertions in behalf of Sicily have been so highly extolled by posterity. In 1250-54 his second son Conrad occupied the throne ; then Manfred until the battle of Benevento in 1266 ; and in 1268 Charles of Anjou caused the last scion of the Germanic imperial house to be exe- cuted (see p. 39). Fourth Period. Charles of Anjou and Provence maintained Notice. SICILY. 237 his supremacy in Sicily, with which he had been invested by Pope Clement IV., for but a brief period. The massacre of the Sicilian Vespers (1282') was an expiation of the death of Conradin. Messina defended itself heroically against the attacks of Charles; and Peter of Aragon., son-in-law of Manfred , became master of the island. But its decline dates from this period. It was repeatedly devastated by the interminable wars with the Anjous of Naples, while the no- bility, such as the Chiara^jionte and the Ventimiglia, attained to such power as to render systematic administration on the part of the government impossible. In 1410, when Sicily became an ap- panage of the kingdoms of Naples and Spain , it still retained its freedom of internal administration. But this very privilege proved prejudicial to it, whilst its external defence against the barbarians was neglected. During the second half of the 18th cent, many mediaeval institutions were swept away by the advance of ci- vilisation , and in 1812 Sicily was finally rescued from the con- dition of a mediaeval feudal state. In that year, the Sicilian Es- tates, under the influence of the English general Lord William H, C. Bentinck, whose troops were then protecting the island against Napoleon, passed a constitution on the English model. But three years later this was again abrogated. The misrule of the Bourbons, and the popular antipathy to the union with Naples, led to a san- guinary revolt on July 14th, 1820, which, however, was repressed by the Neapolitan generals, Florestan Pepe and Coletta, The cholera epidemic, also, of 1837, which the people attributed to the fault of the government, was followed by renewed disturbances. At the re- volution of Jan. 12th, 1848, Sicily appointed a government of its own under the noble Ruggiero SettimOj and maintained its inde- pendence against Naples for a year and a half. Among the leaders of the people at this time were the Marchese Torrearsa, Prince Butera, Stabile^ La Farina., and the brothers Amari. In September, 1848, however , Messina was laid partly in ruins by the fleet of Fer- dinand II. (‘Re Bomba’) , in the following April Catania was cap- tured, and in May Palermo. During these struggles the inspiriting idea of a comprehensive national unity had impressed itself on the Sicilians , and when in 1860 Northern Italy became united under the house of Savoy , revolts once more broke out in the two chief towns of the island. Garibaldi , with 1000 volunteers (‘i mille’), landed in Sicily at Marsala on May 11th, 1860, and after a victorious battle at Calatafimi, stormed Palermo on May 27th, In a few weeks more he was master of the entire island; and by the plebiscite of October 21st, 1860, Sicily joined the new kingdom of Italy. The following is a chronological sketch of the history of this period of six centuries : — a. 1282-1285. Peter of Aragon, King of Sicily. 1285-1296. James the Just. 1296-1337. Frederick II. 238 SICILY. Historical b. c. d. e. A 1337-1342. 1342-1355. 1355-1377. 1377-1402. 1402-1409. 1409- 1410. 1410- 1412. 1412-1416. 1416-1458. 1458-1479. 1479-1515. 1515-1554. 1554-1598. 1598-1621. 1621-1665. 1665-1700. 1700-1713. 1713-1720. 1720-1734. 1734-1759. 1759-1825. 1825-1830. 1830-1859. 1848-1849. 1859-1860. Peter II., co-regent from 1321. Louis. Frederick III. the Simple, brother of Louis. Mary, daughter of Frederick III., married in 1485 to Martin of Aragon. Martin I. sole monarch of Sicily , married to Bianca of Castille. Martin II., father o^ Martin I. Interregnum. Ferdinand the Just, King of Aragon and Castille. Alphonso the Generous , King of Aragon, and after 1442 King of Naples. John of Aragon and Navarre. Ferdinand II. the Catholic, after 1505 also King of Naples. Emp. Charles V. ; 1517, Squarcialupo’s re- bellion at Palermo. Philip 11. Philip III. Philip IV.; 1647, Revolution at Palermo, Giuseppe Alessi. Charles II.; 1672-1678, Messina revolts in favour of Louis XIV. of France. Philip Y. of Bourbon, after 1713 King of Spain, Victor Amadeus of Savoy. Emp. Charles VI. of Germany. Charles III. of Bourbon. Ferdinand IV., King of Naples and Sicily, after 1815 Ferdinand I., King of the Two Sicilies. Francis I. Ferdinand II. Sicily independent. Francis II. 2. History of Civilisation and Art. Almost every one of the numerous nations which in the course of centuries have inhabited or governed Sicily has left behind it some trace of its individual capacity for art, modified, however, to some extent by the characteristics peculiar to the island, and there- fore in most cases bearing a Sicilian stamp. Cicero has observed that the Sicilian is never so miserable as to be unable to utter a bon-mot, and a similar remark might be made at the present day. The Sicilians of all ages have displayed marked, though not bril- liant abilities. Their wit, flow of conversation, and power of re- partee were universally known to the ancients. It was not, there- fore, the result of mere chance that Greek comedy attained its Notice. SICILY. 239 earliest development here , and that bucolic poetry originated in Sicily, where to this day the natives delight in rural life. Sicily has in all ages produced admirable speakers , although rather sophists and phrase-makers than great orators. In the study of the history of their island the natives have ever manifested the utmost zeal, and for the concrete sciences as far as they are connected with practical life, such as mechanics and medicine, they possess con- siderable aptitude. In the manufacture of objects of an artistic character (in opposition to pure works of art) , as in architecture, the art of engraving, the composition of mosaics, etc., the Sicilians have from a very early period distinguished themselves. It must not be forgotten, however, that the Saracenic supremacy introduced a new and important element into the national character, which shows itself in a vein of seriousness , foreign to the character of neighbouring races, such as the Neapolitans. The national songs, for example , are strongly tinctured with Oriental melancholy. The monuments of Sikelian culture of the pre-Hellenic period still preserved in Sicily, although far more scanty than the Greek, merit a more minute examination than has hitherto fallen to their share. Prehistoric antiquities have recently been investigated in several different spots , and traces of the flint period have been found in caverns and elsewhere. The most important antiquities of a somewhat later date are : the Subterranean Cities with which the S.E. angle of the island is full, the so-called Ddieri of Yal dTspica, Palazzolo, Pantelica, etc., and the Polygonal Structures at Cefalu and on Mt. Eryx. The Metopes of Selinus , mementoes of the most ancient style, form the transition to the Hellenic sculpture. Some of the most magnificent Greek temples still extant have been erected in Sicily : Temple of Apollo at Selinus 371 ft. long, 177 ft. broad; Temple of Zeus at Oirgenti 356 ft. long, 174 ft. broad (Parthenon at Athens 229 ft. by 101ft.; Temple of Zeus at Olympia 233 ft. by 97 ft.; Temple of Apollo at Phigalia 195 ft. by 75 ft. ; Temple of Diana at Ephesus 388 ft. by 187 ft.). The Ruined Temples at Girgenti, Se- gesta, Selinus, and Syracuse are nowhere surpassed. The Theatres of Syracuse, Taormina, Segesta, Tyndaris, Palazzolo, and Catania have indeed been modified by additions during the Roman period, but the Greek origin of their foundations and arrangements may easily be recognised. The fortifications of the Epipolae of Syracuse are among the best existing specimens of Greek structures of the kind. In the province of Sculpture comparatively few Greek works have come down to us. Among these may be mentioned the more recent metopae of Selinus in the museum at Palermo , and a few relics preserved at Syracuse. Of Bronzes^ in the casting of which Perilaos of Agrigentum is said to have excelled , scarcely a single specimen has survived. On the other hand a copious collection of admirable ancient Coins has come down to us. Beautiful 240 SICILY. History Vases are likewise found in almost every part of the island. The climax of the prosperity of the Sicilian Greeks was contempor- aneous with that of their mother- country, and not in point of architecture alone. About the year 550, Stesichorus of Himera per- fected the Greek chorus hy the addition of the epode to the strophe and antistrophe. JEschylus resided long in Sicily, where he died (456), and was interred at Gela. Pindar and Sappho also enjoyed the hospitality of Sicily, and sang the praises of the victories of her sons at Olympia. Simonides visited Sicily, and composed appropriate lines for the gift dedicated to the gods by Gelon after the battle of Himera in 480. Phormis, an officer of Gelon at Syra- cuse, who invented movable scenes, Epicharmus in 480, Sophron in 460, and Xenarchus, the son of the last, distinguished them- selves in the composition of comedies. Nothing is more charac- teristic of the Sicilian enthusiasm for art than the story that the Syracusans once set at liberty several Athenian prisoners, because they knew how to recite the verses of Euripides with pathos. Even during the period of decline the national poetical bias was still pre-eminent , and gave birth to a new description of poetry, the idyls, in which their inventor Theocritus of Syracuse was unsur- passed, and which even in modern times have found numerous admirers. The Sicilians have always manifested considerable capacity for philosophical research. Pythagoras found followers here. Xeno~ phanes of Colophon, the founder of the Eleatic school, died in Syracuse at an advanced age. A century later, Plato thrice visited Syracuse. But the most illustrious Sicilian thinker was Empedocles of Acragas, distinguished as a natural philosopher, and also as a practical statesman, physician, architect, and orator. The names of a number of eminent physicians are recorded : Pausanias^ Acron (5th cent. B.C.), Menecrates (4th cent. B.C.), and Celsus (but the last, born at Centuripse, is not to be confounded with his famous namesake who lived in the reign of Augustus). Distinguished histor- ians were: Antiochus, Philistus of Syracuse, Timaeus of Taor- mina, Dicaearchus of Messana, and the learned Diodorus (Siculus) of Agyrium, who wrote his celebrated Bibliotheca Historica in the reign of Augustus. The most brilliant of the numerous orators were Corax and Tisias^ the teacher of Isocrates, Gorgias, and Lysias. Gorgias, the celebrated sophist and orator, was a native of Leon- tinoi, and Lysias was the son of a Syracusan. Among the mathe- maticians and mechanicians Arc/imedes was the most distinguished. Hicetas of Syracuse was one of the first who taught that the earth moved and the sun remained stationary. The Roman-Byzantine Supremacy gave the death-blow to the intellectual progress of the Sicilians. The soldier who slew Archi- medes may be regarded as symbolical of this epoch. In accordance with the Roman custom, however, numerous magnificent amphi- r of Civilisation. SICILY. 241 theatres, theatres, and aqueducts were constructed during this period. The rapacity of Verres and other governors despoiled the island of countless treasures of art. The Christians used many of the ancient temples and tomhs for sacred purposes. A single Byzantine church of small dimensions near Malvagiia alone remains from this period. A proof of the abject condition to which Sicily had sunk is found in the circumstance that down to a late period of the Mus- lim supremacy not a single author of eminence arose, although crowds of monks and priests resided in the island. Theophanes Cerameus and Petrus Siculus , the historian of the Manichseans, alone deserve mention. The wandering San Simeon of Syracuse died at Treves. The Arabs were the first to infuse new life into the island. They not only enriched the architectural art with new forms of construction, as mentioned below, but they also inaugurated a new era in the writing of history and geography, and under King Roger II. the first mediaeval geographer Edrisi completed his great work (Nushat-ul-Mushtak). Among the Mohammedan Kasides (poets) Ibn-Hamdis was the most distinguished. Art developed itself to a still greater extent under the Norman rule, and the princes and great men of that race have perpetuated their names by the erection of numerous cathedrals. The importance they at- tached to learning is proved by the fact that they were in the habit of summoning the most learned men of the East (e. g. Petrus Blesensis) to instruct their young princes. Whilst the Arabs de- serve commendation for the introduction of the most valuable com- mercial products (grain, cotton, sumach, etc.) which the island possesses, the Norman princes established the manufacture of silk; and a school for the arts of weaving and the composition of mosaic was maintained in the royal palace. The brilliant reign of Fred- erick //., his legislative merits, and his zealous promotion of every art and science are well known. At his court at Palermo the Italian language developed itself so as to become a written language, and his counsellors, his sons , and even he himself made the first attempts at Italian poetry. Of Frederick //., Manfred^ Enzius, Ciullo of Alcamo, Peter de Vineis^ Ouido delle Colonne^ Jacopo da Lentini, etc., poems are still preserved to us. But this golden age was of brief duration. Amid the vicissitudes of subsequent centuries all intellectual superiority became extinct. Even the chroniclers manifest distinct traces of this degeneracy. Whilst well-written and interesting chronicles of Sicily were composed in the 13th century [Hugo Falcandus , Bartholomew of Neocastro^ etc.), those of a later period are often unreadable. The revival of classical studies, however, at length roused literature from its inert condition. At the close of the 15th cent. Messina distinguished itself by its promotion of Greek studies, and Constantine Lascaris taught there. The following century produced the learned and Baedeker. Italy III. 12tli Edition. 10 242 SICILY. History indefatigable Thomas Fazello of Sciacca (d. 1570), the originator of Sicilian history and topography. His work was completed hy the historian Maurolycus of Messina. The enlightened absolutism of the Bourbons during the last century tended to promote the progress of science in Sicily, although the attention of scholars was principally directed to ar- chaeological research relating to the history of the island. The wealthier of the nobility and the clergy eagerly took part in the revival. The art of poetry also revived, and found its most talented representative in Giovanni Meli of Palermo (d. 1815). His ana- creontic songs in the national dialect were universally popular even before they appeared in a printed form. In the history of music Sicily is best represented by Bellini (b. at Catania 1802, d. at Paris 1835). With regard to ancient art in Sicily , and. particularly the sculptures of Selinus, see pp. xxvii et seq. We may now add. a few remarks upon the principal mediaeval and modern monuments of art. Architecture. The mediaeval architecture of, Sicily, and par- ticularly that of Palermo, bears the impress of the political destin- ies of the country in a very striking degree, showing the change from the Byzantine to the Arabian domination, and from the latter to the supremacy of the Normans. The style is accordingly of a very mixed character, which strict connoisseurs will not fail to censure, but it possesses great attractions for the less scientific lover of art. The leading element is the Arabian, After the overthrow of the Arabian supremacy the more refined culture of that race left its mark on the island, and the Norman princes found it desirable to avail themselves of its services in the administration of the country and particularly in the province of art. The Arabian culture, however, was in its turn considerably swayed by Byzantine in- fluences, and it is therefore not surprising that these again should be reflected in the Sicilian architecture of the 12th century. The ground-plan of many of the churches of Palermo is traceable to Byzantine originals , viz. a square space enclosed by four pillars and covered with a dome. It is uncertain whether this form was introduced direct from Byzantium after the final triumph of Christ- ian culture, or whether the Arabs had already employed it in the construction of their numerous little oratories (of which Ibn Hau- kal, an Arabian traveller of the 10th cent., says that there were 200 at Palermo alone) , and handed it down to their Norman suc- cessors. The latter alternative , however, is the more probable. While the plan of many churches, such as Martorana, S. Cataldo^ and S. Antonio at Palermo is Byzantine, and that of others, like Monreale, S. Spirito, and several abbey-churches ^ Palermo, and the cathedral at Cefalu, is Romanesque, the universally prevalent pointed arch is of Arabian origin, and quite distinct from the of Art. SICILY. 243 Gothic form. The Arabs brought it from Egypt and used it in all their buildings, and they also derived thence the custom of adorn- ing their flat ceilings with pcndentives, resembling stalactites, and their friezes with inscriptions. While the ecclesiastical architecture of Sicily was thus unable to resist the Arabian influence , that of her palaces still possesses a distinctly Arabian character, cor- responding with the Oriental complexion of the Norman court. Of the numerous palaces which are said to have encircled Palermo in the 12th cent., we now possess imperfect examples only in the Zisa and the Cuba (and in the relics of the chateaux of Mimner- mum at Altarello di Baida and Favara at Mare Dolce), so that it requires a considerable effort of imagination to picture their vaunted magnificence. Sicily possesses no Gothic churches of any note (S. Francesco and S. Agostino at Palermo^ and the cathedral at Mes- sina), but it is curious to observe how tenaciously her architects clung to Gothic and other mediaeval forms down to a late period in the Renaissance epoch. Of the later mediaeval secular architecture we find many pleasing examples, especially at Palermo. In the 17th cent, numerous edifices in the ‘baroque’ style were erected on a very extensive scale , but characterised by an only too florid richness of decorative detail. Sculpture. In the plastic art, in so far as it rises above a merely decorative purpose, mediaeval Sicily attained little pro- ficiency. The principal works in bronze (the gates at Monreale) are not the work of native masters. Sculpturing in marble for de- corative purposes, on the other hand, was extensively and success- fully practised here at an early period. The capitals and several shafts of columns in the monastery-court of Monreale are among the finest works of the kind in Italy. The early Sicilian Wood Carving^ sometimes adorned with arabesques, which is still fre- quently met with (as at the Martorand)^ is of remarkably fine exe- cution. Another proof of the great skill of the Sicilian artificers is afforded by the Porphyry Sarcophagi of the Norman princes and German emperors in the cathedral at Palermo, and by the numerous Marble Incrustations and Marble Mosaics of the 12th century. The mural covering of the Cappella Palatina and the Martorana^ and the mosaic decorations of the monastery court of Monreale will bear favourable comparison with the finest works of the Roman sculptors in marble and the members of the Cosmas school. Mosaic painting was also highly developed in the 12th century. The mosaics in the cathedral at Cefalu and in the Cappella Palatina^ and those in the Martorana and at Monreale , which have been preserved from decay by repeated restorations, are not all of uniform value, but even those which show less vigour of conception display the bold- ness of touch and finish of execution peculiar to able and ex- perienced masters. As such artificers cannot possibly have sprung up under Arabian rule , we must assume that the earlier of the 16 * 244 SICILY. History of Art, works to which we have referred were executed hy Byzantine artists invited to Sicily from foreign countries , and that these masters then transmitted their art to native successors. At a later period, after the extinction of the Norman princes, Sicilian art fell far be- hind that of the mainland. Even during the Renaissance period Sicily made no independent exertion, her cultivation of art being but a slow and hesitating adoption of that of Rome and Naples. It must, however, be borne in mind, that the existing sculptures of Sicily are as yet by no means fully known. The most famous name connected with Renaissance sculpture at Palermo is that of Oagini. For three generations the Gaginis were sculptors in marble. Antonio Qagini^ born in 1480, was the son of a Lombard sculptor, and to him and his sons are referred all the finest works in marble of the 16th cent, at Palermo. At a later period Giacomo Serpotta (1655-1732), a successor of Bernini, and a forerunner of the rococo school , executed at Palermo numerous works in stucco, of distinct, though perhaps somewhat affected, grace. Painting. The history of this art in Sicily, although it has been the object of zealous local research, has not yet been placed on a satisfactory critical basis. In the 15th cent., however, the island produced several painters of considerable eminence , the most frequently named of whom is Antonio Crescenzio , although only the St. Cecilia in the cathedral at Palermo (p. 252) can be assigned to him with certainty. His claim to be the artist of the striking ‘Triumph of Death’ in the Palazzo Sclafani (p. 251) rests on very uncertain grounds ; but he may perhaps be credited with the mural designs in a lateral chapel of S. Maria di Gesii (p. 273) which forcibly recall the Florentine compositions of the 15th century. His pupil Tommaso di Vigilia and Pietro Ruzulone are painters of mediocre rank. The most distinguished Sicilian painter of the 15th cent, was Antonello da Messina^ but the only authentic works by him now in Sicily are five or six in his native town (p. 317). This master must not be confounded with his less distinguished con- temporary Antonello da Saliba, several pictures by whom are still preserved at Palermo. Of the artists of Palermo in the 16th cent, the most famous was Vincenzo di Pavia, surnamed Aine~ molo, who is also known as Vincenzo il Romano, and is said to have been a pupil of Polidoro Caldara. Most of the churches of Palermo boast of works by this master, who would there- fore seem to have been very prolific; but as the works attrib- uted to him are of very unequal merit, many of them are probably by a different hand, while others are partly by his pupils. His labours extended down to the year 1542. His finest works are the Ascension and the Descent from the Cross in the Museum, and a rich composition in a side-chapel to the left in S. Domenico. To the 17th cent, belongs Pietro Novelli (1603-47), surnamed ‘Mon- realese’, a master of considerable originality, and a follower of the UOA fizdie 3 ViUovAV. jcli BenpfireiizH F;^delle ' f Vittime BjI Pogana, f>€Ogr. Ails tall WaJnPi- A ■ Hotels. PALERMO. 2.7. Route. 2 15 Neapolitan school, to which he owes his vigorous colouring and his strongly individualised heads. Besides his works at Palermo, there is an interesting work by this master on the staircase at Monrcale (St. Benedict and his successors). Several of his monkish figures are among the finest works produced by the Italian naturalists. Palermo followed the degraded styles of the 18th cent., the proofs of which are too numerous to require enumeration. 23. Palermo. Arrival. By Sea. Travellers are conveyed to the Dogana (PI. H, 5 ; 1 fr. for each pers. with luggage, 60 c. without), where luggage is slightly examined. Thence to the town about 1 M. *, cab with luggage IV2 fr., in- cluding a gratuity. Omnibuses from several of the hotels await the arrival of the steamboats. — The main Railway Station is in the Via Lincoln, outside the Porta S. Antonino (PI. A, 4); that of the W. Railway (R. 25) in the Via Lolli (PI. F, 1)-, and that of the local railway to Corleone (p. 289) in S. Erasmo, at the S.E. end of the Marina (PI. A, 6). Cabs, see p. 246. Hotels. (If a stay of any length is made, charges had better be asked beforehand.) *Hotel des Palmes (PI. a; E, 3), in the Via Stabile, with beautiful garden, R. 3-7, L. 1, A. 1, B. IV2, dej. 31/2, !>• 5 , pens. 10-15, omn. 11/2 fr. 5 ''Trinacria (PI. b ^ C, 5 ), with a fine view of the Marina, entered from the Via Butera, R. from 3, L. 2/4^ A. 3 '4^ B. I1/2, dej. 3-3V2, D. 5, incl. wine 6, pens. 10-15, omn. I1/2 fr.^ *H6 tel de France (PI. c^ C,5), in a healthy situation, R. 3-5, L. A. 2/4^ B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 41/2, pens. 10-13, omn. IV2 fr. — Second-class: Hotel Centrale (PI. d; C, o), with trattoria, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 343, in the centre of the town, close to the Quattro Canti, R. from 2^/2, dej. 172-2, D. 372-4 fr. ; Hot. de Milan, Via Emerico Amari, behind the Politeama (PI. F, 3)^ Italia, Piazza Marina 60, near the Giardino Garibaldi (PI. f^ C, 5), R. 2-272, pens. 6-7 fr. ^ Rebec- CHiNO (PI. g^ B, 2 ), Corso Vitt. Emanuele, opposite the cathedral, R., L., & A. 272 5 , pens, from 6, omn. 1 fr. •, Albergo Vittoria al Pizzcto (PI. h^ D, 4), Via Bandiera 31, near the Piazza S. Domenico, R. from 2, pens, from 8 fr.. with restaurant (dej. I74, D. 272 fr-j^ Albergo Aragona, Via Alloro 90; etc. Pensions (all well spoken of). Fens. Anglaise (Mrs. Artand) ^ Via Principe Scordia (PI. E, F, G, 4), Casa Piazza, 3rd floor, pens, from 7 fr. ; Pens. Suisse., Corso Vitt. Emanuele 187, pens. 7 fr.; Pens. Tersenghi^ Via Lincoln 55, R. 12, pens. 5 fr. Furnished Apartments , generally indicated by placards , are now easily obtained in Palermo, but are usually somewhat deficient in the comforts desirable for a winter residence and not all at suited for solitary invalids. There is a scarcity of single rooms to let. In the town the Piazza Marina (PI. C, 5), the Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3), and the Piazza Vittoria (Pl.B, 2) may be recommended. The unpaved streets of the newer quarters are very dusty in dry weather. Invalids should avoid rooms in the vicinity of the Cala. The price of a furnished room in the town is 30-70 fr., that of a small furnished etage outside the town about 100 fr. a month. Some of the private villas in the Olivuzza (PI. D, 1) and the Giardino Inglese (PI. G, H, 2) are also let in whole or in part, but in general at high rents and not to pulmonary patients. The smallest details should be inserted in the contract, and the apartments should be carefully inspected before taking possession. Marchese Milo. Corso Calata- fimi 55, Piazza delF Indipendenza , and Fr. Sutone (p. 247) are trust- worthy house-agents. The hirer of furnished lodgings will find some diffi- culty in procuring suitable provisions , and also some inconvenience in the fact that the Sicilian servants only speak the Sicilian dialect. 246 Route 23. PALERMO. Cabs, Trattorie (p. xix). Progresso ^ Via Vitt. Emanuele 311; Firenze^ Via Macqueda 264; Oreto^ at the corner of the Piazza Marina and the Via Vitt. Emanuele; Caff^ Lincoln^ opposite; Stella Americana ^ Corso Vitt. Emanuele 178; Caffh Politeama^ in the theatre of that name (PI. F, 3); Caff^-Ristor. Scoglio di Frisio , at the E. end of the Marina. — Cafes (almost empty in the morning), in the above trattorie; also: Caffh Tri- nacria^ Quattro Canti di Campagna (PI. E, 3); Cafd of the Teatro Bellini^ Piazza della Martorana (good ices at both); Caff^ del Foro Italico^ on the Marina, with sea-view (open May to Oct. only). — Confectioners (‘Pastic- cerie’): GuW^ Corso Vitt. Emanuele 101-107; *^CaJlisch^ Corso Vitt. Ema- nuele 180 and Via Macqueda 292 (good preserved fruit at both). — Beer at CaJUsch's, see above; Caf^ Trinacria^ see above; Birreria Barander,^ in the court of the Albergo Centrale (see p. 245). Casino Nuovo^ or new club, in the Palazzo Geraci in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele (p. 255), contains handsome apartments, and is worth visiting ; strangers may easily obtain an introduction for a fortnight; ticket for a longer period 10 fr. per month. One-h. Two-h. 0. 60 0. 80 1. — 1. 50 1. 80 2. 20 1. 60 2. - Driving in the Gabs. Tariff for 1-4 persons : — Drive within the town-walls, including the Piazza S. Francesco di Paola, Piazza Ruggero Settimo, Corso Scina, and Via Borgo Drive within the suburbs, including the harbour and the station if not more than 1/2 br Small articles free. One box 20, two boxes 30 c. First hour Each additional hour After midnight these charges are raised by one-half, town is prohibited on Good Friday. Longer drives according to bargain; e.g. to Monreale (p. 271), inch I 1/2 hr.’s stay, 7-8 fr. Tramways. Several of the lines marked on our map have ceased run- ning. For strangers practically the only lines of importance are those to Acquasanta^ at the foot of Monte Pellegrino, and to La Rocca,^ at the foot of the hill of Monreale (comp. pp. 267, 269). — The chief lines of Omni- buses are mentioned in our description of the town (pp. 267, 273). Baths. Nettuno^ Vicolo Paterno, near the Quattro Canti ; Stabilimento idroterapico (Ere. La Barhera)^ Via Quattro Aprile 7-9, Piazza Marina (PI. C, 5), both well fitted up, with Turkish baths. — Sea Baths in the Stradone del Borgo (PI. E, F, 4), and near Acquasanta (p. 264), from June to September. Swimmers will probably prefer to bathe early in the morn- ing from a boat, which they may hire ( 1/2 fr.) at the Sanita (PI. D, 5). Post Office, Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3); several branch-offices. Telegraph Office, Via Macqueda 222, not far from the Quattro Canti (to the left in going thence to the Porta Macqueda). Steamboat Office. Navigazione Generate lialiana.^ Corso Vitt. Ema- nuele 96, at the corner of the Piazza Marina. Booksellers. Carlo Clausen (Alb. Reber; ‘Libreria Internazionale’), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 360, at the corner of the Piazza Bologni, with a circulating library (‘biblioteca circolante’ ; information of all kinds given to travellers) ; Giovanni Fiorenza.^ Corso Vittorio Emanuele 365, near the Quattro Canti, in the direction of the Piazza Vittoria (second-hand books) ; Costa Via Macqueda 224 ; Remo Sandron.^ Corso Vittorio Emanuele 324. — Music : Luigi Sandron., Corso Vittorio Emanuele 381; Ricordi^ same street Ro. 224. — Newspaper: Giornale di Sicilia (5 c.). — Photographs: Sommer Porcasi, Incorpora., adjoining each other in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, near the Piazza S. Spirito (PI. C, 5). — Watchmaker ; Zollikofer., Corso Vittorio Emanuele 142. Bankers. Ingham &, Whitaker., Via Lampedusa ; Morrison & Co., Piazza Marina; Wedekind, Pal. Cattolica, Via Cintorinai 48; Amato d; Co., Piazza Marina. — Money Changers : Gio. Valdes, Corso Vitt. Em. 104, and others in the same street. Guide: Francesco Sutone, Porto Salvo 11-13. In the town 6 fr. per day; miation. PALURMO. 2.1. n(MU. 247 outside 10 fr., incl. provisions, but excl. railway-fares. Sutone also pro- cures lodgings (comp. p. 245). Goods Agents. Tvifonio Medici., Pia/za Marina 16; Fralelli Mazzaretta., Piazza Marina 86. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. Peter A. Young. Health (comp, also p. 231). Precautions should be taken against ill- nesses of a gastric nature by proper attention to clothing and diet. Sitting in the open air is rendered dangerous in some parts of the town by the dampness of the ground. The drinking-water of Palermo should be used with some caution; when there is any tendency to diarrhoea, it should be drunk mixed with red wine, or in the form of weak tea. A new water-supply is projected. Diseases of the eye are very common, but the blinding glare of the sun may be neutralised by the use of umbrellas and spectacles of coloured glass. Physician. Dr. Berlin., ViaPatuanolQ (PI. E,4). — Chemists. English, 0/Orso Vitt. Emanuele 27; Caputo., Via Vitt. Emanuele 95 ; Farmacia Inter- nazionale (Misuraca)., Via Borgo 292; Candela., Pal. Briuccia, Via Cintorinai. Theatres. Teatro Bellini (PI. B, C, 4), Piazza della Martorana; Poli- teama Garibaldi., Piazza Ruggero Settimo (PI. F, 3; p. 259); S. Cecilia (PI. B, 4), Via Santa Cecilia; Garibaldi (PI. B, 5), Via Castrofilippo, the last two second-rate houses with popular performances. — The large new Teatro Vittorio Emanuele (PI. D, 3) will probably be opened in 1896. Consuls. American: Mr. Wm. H. Seymour; Vice-consul, Sig.F. Piran- dello. — British: Mr. H. L. Dupuis; Vice-consul, Mr. E. M. de Garston, Esq. English Church (of the Holy Cross)., Via Stabile, opposite the Hotel des Palmes ; services at 11 a.m. during the winter months (church closed for 4 months in summer); chaplain. Rev. Dr. Dixon., Pal. Barbaro , Via Emerico Amari. — Presbyterian Service. Via del Bosco 73. — Italian Evan- gelical Church. Via Cintorinai 9; chaplain. Rev. Augusto Lenzi, Italian Free Church., Pal. Campofranco, Piazza Croce de’ Vespri; Italian Metho- dists. Pal. Raffadali; Waldensian Church., Pal. Cuto, Via Macqueda 36. — British Sailors'* Rest., Via Borgo 380. Attractions. During a stay of four days at Palermo the traveller should visit : — 1st Day. S. Giovanni degli Eremiti (p. 250), the Royal Palace with the *Cappella Palatina (p. 249), the *Cathedral (p. 251), and La Zisa (p. 267) in the forenoon ; *Monte Pellegrino (p. 268) in the afternoon. — 2nd Day. Oratorio del S. Rosario (p. 266), S. Domenico (p. 265), and the 'Mu- seum (p. 259) in the forenoon; Monreale (p. 271) and ' Villa Tasca (p. 270), and perhaps also S. Martino, in the afternoon. — 3rd Day. *S. Maria di Gesii (p. 273) , S. Cataldo, and Martorana (p. 254) in the forenoon ; Acquasanta and "Villa Belmonte (p. 267), or La Favorita (p. 269) and back by omnibus from S. Lorenzo to the Giardino Inglese (p. 259) in the afternoon; the Marina (p. 257) and the Villa Giulia (p. 257) in the evening. — 4th Day. Excursion to Bagheria and "Soluntum (p. 275). — The beautiful public and private Gardens in Palermo and its environs add greatly to its charm as a residence. Admission to the finest of the latter is generally obtain- able by the payment of a small fee. The Festival of St. Rosalia (p. 268), ll-15th July, is accompanied with horse-races, regattas, illuminations, etc. The annual festival at the chapel of the saint on the Monte Pellegrino takes place on the night of Sept. 3rd. Palermo, the capital of Sicily, with 273,000 inhab., is the mili- tary, judicial, and ecclesiastical headquarters of the island, and possesses one of the seven principal Italian universities. It lies in 38® 6' 44'' N. latitude, on the W. side of the Bay of Palermo, which opens towards the E., and is enclosed by the fertile plain of the Conca d’Oro, beyond which rises an amphitheatre of imposing mountains. On the N. the city is sheltered by the finely-shaped Monte Pellegrino, opposite which, on the E., lies the Monte Oatal- fano. Palermo is justly entitled to the epithet Tafelice’, on account of its magnificent situation arid delightful climate. The town is on 218 Route 23. PALERMO. History, the whole well huilt, although the houses are generally of unim- posing exterior. It forms an ohlong quadrangle, the E. end of which adjoins the sea. Two main streets divide it into four quarters. A new quarter of the town, consisting chiefly of villas and residences for visitors, has sprung up to the N. The commerce of the city, which is to a great extent in the hands of foreigners, is steadily increasing. Sumach, sulphur, wine, oranges, and lemons are largely exported. The harbour presents an animated scene. Steamers of many foreign companies call at Palermo; and the Navigazione Generale Italiana (p. 246) has one of its chief seats (Societa Florio) in the capital of Sicily. The narrow and shallow harbour, called La Gala., on the N. W. side of which lie the ruins of Fort Castellammare, extended in ancient and mediaeval times farther into the city, including the present Piazza Marina and reach- ing on the W. as far as the Via Argenteria, whence the Greek name of the city Panormos (‘entirely harbour'). The ancient town stretching down to S. Antonio (PI. C, 4), was bounded by two brooks which emptied themselves into the harbour, the course of which may still be traced in the Via di Porta di Castro on the S. and the depression of the Papireto (PI. C, 1, 2), the Piazza S. Onofrio, and the Piazza Nuova on the N. To the 1^. and S. of the old town lay the suburbs. Panormus was originally a Phoenician settlement , and , until it was captured in B. C. 254 by the Komans, was one of the most important strongholds of the Carthaginians. Hamilcar Barca besieged the city from the Heircte (Monte Pellegrino , p. 268) for three years , in a vain attempt to recover it. It afterwards belonged to the Romans and was colonised by Augustus. In 535 A. D. a fleet under Belisarius captured the city from the Goths, and thenceforth it remained under the Byzantine emperors till the arrival of the Arabs in 830. The latter made it their capital, and it rapidly attained a high pitch of prosperity, counting at one period 300,000 inhabitants. In 1072 the Normans obtained possession of it, and in 1193 the Germans in the person of Henry VI. (p. 236). The French house of Anjou was expelled in 1280 (Sicilian Vespers). The monarchs of the house of Aragon seldom resided here. The Chiaramonte, powerful feudal barons and Counts of Modica, who erected a spacious palace for themselves at Palermo, were long the real rulers of the place. It was not until the 15th cent, that Palermo began to recover from the sufferings of this long period of anar- chy. The Spanish Viceroys of Sicily, notwithstanding the loud remon- strances of Messina, selected this citj’^ as their residence, and the nobles and clergy of their court contributed to swell its magnificence and gaiety. From this period, the 16th and 17th cent., date the two main streets, and many of the churches and palaces which now form the characteristic features in the architectural appearance of Palermo. Outward splendour could not long, however, conceal the numerous evils of the Spanish rule; and in 1647 a revolt took place, whose leader Giuseppe d'Alessi met the fate of Masaniello (p. 39). The people notwithstanding remained faithful to the Spaniards till 1713, against both the French and the Austrians. In 1798 and again in 18C6 the Neapolitan court took refuge in Palermo; and Ferdinand I. resided here until 1815. The Sicilian parliament met here in 1812. The revolt of 1820 involved Palermo in much loss; while the cholera in 1837 swept off 24,000 victims in 8 weeks. In Jan. and Feb., 1848, the town, which for a year and a half had been the seat of the revol- utionary government (p. 237), was subjected to a destructive bombard- ment of over three weeks; and after the final revolt against the Bourbons, which broke out on April 4th, 1860, Palermo suffered the same terrible ex- perience until the victorious entry of Garibaldi on May 27th. On tbeS.W. side of tbe town, at the end of tbe Corso Vittorio Emannele, lies tbe spacious Piazza della Vittoria (PI. B, 2), Palazzo Reale. PALERMO. 23. Route. 249 where the ’^Talazzo Reale (PI. B, 2) rises on a slight eminence which has always been the site of the castle of the city. Tlie nuc- leus of this building is of Saracenic origin. Additions were made by Robert Giiiscard, King Roger, the two Williams, Frederick 11., and Manfred ; and it afterwards underwent many alterations, so that tlie central. tower with the pointed arches (8. Ninfa) is now the only relic of Norman times. Notwithstanding this it still retains traces of its origin as a defensive structure. The gate farthest to the left leads into the Palace Court (guide Y 2 unnecessary), which is enclosed by arcades. Ascend- ing a staircase on the left, and turning to the right on the first floor, we enter the — **Cappella Palatina, built before 1132 by King Roger II. in the Arabic-Norman style and dedicated to St. Peter (open 7.30 to 11 a.m. ; at other times fee; best light early in the morning). The whole, with its mosaic decorations, is a perfect gem of mediae val art, perhaps the most beautiful palace-chapel in the world. The Vestibule, embellished with modern mosaics, forms the remains of a portions, which at one time surrounded the entire chapel; of its seven columns, six are of Egyptian granite. To the left is an inscription on the wall in Latin, Greek, and Arabic, referring to the erection of a clock in 1142. The Interior consists of a nave with aisles, and is 36 yds, long (in- cluding the apse) and 14 yds. in width. The Saracenic pointed arches are borne by ten columns of granite and cipollino, 16 ft, in height. The choir is approached by five steps, and over the crossing rises a dome 75 ft. in height, pierced by eight narrow windows, and bearing Greek and Latin inscriptions. The beautiful wooden roof of the nave is also adorned with a Cufic (ancient Arabic) inscription and connected with the walls by a stalactitic vault. To the right are a pulpit and marble candelabrum, 141/2 ft. high, in Norman work of the 12th cent, (the four top-figures added later). The (>othic choir-stalls are modern. The floor is laid with coloured mosaics. The Walls are entirely covered with "'Mosaics (partly restored) on a golden ground, and radiant with oriental splendour. The mosaics re- present subjects from the Old Testament and the lives of Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul. The most antique are those of the choir, which, with the exception of the Madonna, completed in modern times, date from the reign of King Roger; Christ is represented here in the style which recurs in all Norman mosaics, the finest specimen of which is at Cefalii (p. 308). The most modern are those above the royal throne, which faces the altar. The throne bears the arms of Aragon, and, subsequently added, those of Savoy. Amidst the wondrous magic of the general effect, the com- paratively uninteresting details will attract less notice. — To the left of the entrance a bronze door, of the Norman period, with ornamentation in the antique manner, leads to the Sacristy, which contains the archives, with Greek, Latin, and Arabic documents. An adjoining room, closed by a fine old door of hammered iron, contains the treasury. No. 7, a large ivory casket, of Arab workmanship, and an enamelled ostensorium (ca. 1600) are noteworthy. Leaving the cbapel, we ascend tbe principal staircase on the W. side of tbe court to tbe arcades of tbe second floor, and enter tbe passage to tbe left, where tbe first door on tbe right bears tbe in- scription ^R. Osservatorio' . This is tbe entrance to tbe observatory, which is fitted up in tbe tower of 8. Ninfa (tbe former Torre Pisano)^ tbe oldest part of tbe edifice (open to tbe public on Tburs- 250 Route 23. PALERMO. S. Giovanni. days, 10-3 ; to travellers daily). In 1801 Piazzi here discovered Ceres, the first of the asteroids. We ascend two flights of steps and enter by a door, where we find he custodian (V 2 -I fr.). The flat roof commands a superb ^Panorama. At our feet lies the Piazza della Vittoria, above the left angle of which rises the Cathedral ; in front of the latter is the Pal. Arcivescovile^ on the right is the beginning of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the church of S. Salvatore. To the left beyond it lies the harbour, commanded on the left by the Monte Pellegrino 5 to the left in the background rise the mountains of the Capo Gallo ^ below them, in the fore-ground, is the Porta Kuova ^ to the left, farther distant. La Zisa, a cubical yellow building \ farther to the left in the back ground the pointed Monte Cuccio, prolonged on the left by the hill of Mon- reale. Farther to the left, at our feet, extends the Giardino Reale, above which is the Piazza dell’Indipendenza with the obelisks. To the S.E., more to the left, are the five domes of the church of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti; beyond it the cypress-grove of the Campo Santo; in the distance, at the base of the lofty M. Griffone, S. Maria di Gesii; more to the left, M. Catalfano, abutting on the sea; on the promontory, to the right of the latter, Bagheria. The door at the end of the above-mentioned passage leads to the apartments of the palace, the most noticeable of which are the so-called *Stanza di Ruggero^ with walls of mosaic from the Norman period (the German eagle on the ceiling indicates a later restoration), and a room with portraits of the viceroys (fee I/ 2 -I fr.). Connected with the Palazzo Reale were the fortified city-gates. To the right (N.) is the Porta Nuova, a remarkable building in the baroque style, through which the Monreale road (p. 271) leads past the (t /2 M.) Cuba. Access to the upper part of this gate, which commands a beautiful view in all directions, is obtained from the Palazzo Reale. (The Via della Colonna Rotta, the first side-street to the right, outside the gate, leads to the Zisa, M.; see p. 267.) To the left formerly stood the Porta di Castro^ through which led the road to Parco (p. 273). Outside the Porta Nuova lies the Piazza delV Indipendenza, embellished with an obelisk. In the corner of the Piazza della Vittoria, nearly opposite the entrance to the palace, rises a Monument to Philip V. (PI. B, 2), erected in 1856 on the site of a statue of Philip IV. destroyed in 1848. The Via del Bastione a Porta di Castro leads in a few minutes from the foot of the steps beside the monument to the remarkable church of *S. Giovanni degli Eremiti (PI. B, 1, 2), one of the earliest existing Norman churches, founded in 1132. The five un- adorned domes present quite an Oriental appearance. The two largest rise directly from the walls of the nave; those above the S. transept and the choir rest upon square substructures; while the fifth, above the N. transept, crowns the tower. The church is closed; visitors ring at the garden-gate (fees forbidden ; the custodian offers worthless antiquities for sale). The Interior presents the form of a so-called Egyptian cross (T), with three apses; the nave is divided into two squares by a pointed arch. — On the S. side are the remains of a small mosque, divided into two aisles by a row of 5 columns; a small portico leads into a square court. Under the Normans the entire building was used as a burial-place for the Palazzo Sclafani. PALERMO. 2.‘i. Route, 251 nobility^ and only a few traces of the frescoes of the 12th cent, are now visible. — Adjoining the church are pretty Cloister’s, of later date than the church, with arcades in fair preservation resembling those at Monreale. The best view of the domes is obtained from the pleasant garden in the centre. On the E. side of the Piazza della Vittoria, opposite the palace, is the Palazzo Sclafani (PI. B, 2), built in 1330, since the 15th cent, the Spedale Orande^ and now a barrack. Remains of the old external decoration are visible on the E. and S. walls. The arcades of the second court are decorated (right) with a large fresco of the 15th cent., the Triumph of Deaths ascribed by tradition to a Flem- ish painter, once confined here by sickness (shown on week-days 3-4 p.m., after previous application at the Museo Nazionale). Death rises in triumph over pope, king, etc. *, to the right, his arrows have struck down a fashionable lady and a youth in the midst of a social party, while on the left the poor and wretched implore him in vain for release from their misery. The painter, with pencil and mahl-stick, stands beside the latter group. At the opposite corner of the Piazza is the Archiepiscopal Palace (PL C, 2), with its facade towards the Piazza del Duomo, dating in its present form from the 16th century. The beautiful Gothic window , at the corner of the facade , is a relic of the original building; another corner window was adorned by the Gagini. The sword at the entrance is said to have belonged to the Calabrian Bonelli, who murdered the Grand Admiral Majo de Bari in 1160. The tower, connected with the cathedral by two graceful arches, was originally erected in the 12th cent., but in its present form is modern. — At the corner of the archiepiscopal palace is the Infirmeria DEI Sacerdoti, the chapel of which contains a Pieta by Marcello Venusti. The entrance is from the Piazza Papireto (PI. C, 2), the site of which, as late as the 16th cent., was occupied by a papyrus-swamp. We follow the Via Bonella, at the corner of which, opposite the cathedral, lies the ruined church of the Ma- donna delV Incoironata^ dating from the 16th cent., with a Norman chapel and frescoes of the 14th cent, (key in the Museo Nazionale). The spacious Piazza del Duomo (PI. C, 2) is enclosed by a marble balustrade, erected in 1761 and adorned with sixteen large statues of saints. In the centre rises a statue of S. Rosalia, on a triangular pedestal, placed here in 1744. The ^Cathedral, or church of the Assunta (PI. C, 2), in which restorations to its disadvantage have been undertaken in each cen- tury since its foundation, was erected in 1169-85 by Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterio Offamilio) , an Englishman, on the site of a more ancient church, which had been converted into a mosque and subsequently reconverted into a Christian place of worship. The broad gable was added in 1450 to the beautiful S. portico; the door dates from 1425. The character of the ancient building is best preserved on the E. side, with its (restored) black ornamentation. The W. facade, with the principal^portal and the 252 Route 23. PALERMO. Cathedral. two towers, erected in 1300-1359, is particularly fine. The old bell-tower here, connected with the cathedral by two arches, dates chiefly from the 12th cent., although restored in modern times. In 1781-1801 the church was disfigured by the addition of a dome, constructed by Fernando Fuga, the Neapolitan , in spite of the re- monstrances of the Sicilian architects. Fuga also spoiled the in- terior, constructing new side apses in the middle of the transepts, without regard to the original recesses. The Interior is open to visitors 7-11 a.m., and after 4 p.m. — The S. ’Aisle (left of the S. Portal) contains the Tombs of the Kings. Here, in admirably executed sarcophagi of porphyry (which , originally prepared for King Roger, stood in the cathedral at Cefalii), surmounted by canopies, repose: Emp. Frederick II. (d. 1250)*, to the right, his father Henry VI. (d. 1197) ; behind, to the left. King Roger (d. 1154) ^ to the right, his daughter Constance, wife of Henry VI. In a niche to the left is the sarcophagus of William, son of Frederick III. of Aragon-, and in the antique sar- cophagus, with hunting-scenes, to the right, reposes Constance of Aragon, wife of Frederick II. In 1781 the sarcophagi were transferred hither from a chapel contiguous to the choir, and opened. The remains of Roger, Henry VI., and Constance were greatly decomposed, whilst those of Fred- erick II. were in good preservation. With the latter the remains of two other bodies were found, one that of Peter II. of Aragon, the other Duke William, son of King Frederick II. of Aragon. The corpse of the great emperor was enveloped in sumptuous robes with inscriptions in Arabic; beside him lay the crown and imperial apple, and his sword. On the left wall of the chapel to the left of the tombs is a *St. Cecilia, by Antonio di Crescenzio (about 1500), with an angel playing a lute (comp, p. 244). In the second chapel of the N. Aisle is an Assumption, from a work in marble by Ant. Gagini.^ other parts of which (reliefs) are in different parts of the church. By the 4th pillar, a font of the 15th century. In the 7th chapel, statue of the Madonna by Francesco Laurana of Dalmatia (1469). In the 8th chapel, a Passion, by Gagini. The Choir contains statues of the apostles by Gagini., and fine old carved stalls. To the right of the choir is the Cappella di S. Rosalia. Here the saint (p. 268) reposes in a sarcophagus of silver, over 1400 lbs. in weight, exhibited only on 11th Jan., 15th July, and 4th September. The Sacristy is at the end of the S. aisle. Here are exhibited the cap of Constance of Aragon (taken from her coffin in the 16th cent.), a piece of Henry VI.’s mantle , and a gorgeous pallium of Spanish work- manship (fee to attendant, who also shows the crypt, V 2 -I fr.). The Crypt beneath the choir, containing the remains of the arch- bishops in ancient and early-Christian sarcophagi, should also be visited (key at the Municipio). Here, among others, repose Gualterio Offamilio (d. 1190), Paterno, the patron of Ant. Gagini, by whom his statue is ex- ecuted, and the archbishop Frederick of Antioch (d. 1305; the recumbent figure dates from the 16th cent.). The broad main street of Palermo, the Corso or Via Vittorio Emanuble, was constructed in its present form by the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo (comp. p. 40), but was long popularly known as the Cassaro , from the name it bore originally (Arab. ‘al Kassar’, the castle). Following it hence to the N.E., towards the sea, we pass on the left the former Collegio Nuovo (PI. C, 2) of the Jesuits, now containing the National Library (open daily, 9-3) and the Lyceum. — Opposite, on the left side of the Via del Pro- tonotario, is a convent-wall of 1072. Farther on in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, to the right, is Quattro Canti. TALERMO. 23. Route, 253 the magiiiflcent churcli of S. Salvatore (PI. B, C, 3), designer! by Amato (1628). The interior, in whicli the play of light and shadow is particularly fine, is oval, with three large recesses. The dome is adorned with angels and saints, and the walls are covered with ‘putti’, garlands, and scroll-work of coloured marble. We next reach on the left the Palazzo Oeraci (with the Casino Nuovo, p. 246) and, opposite the Piazza Bologni, the Pal. Riso (formerly Belmonte)., built in 1790 by Marvuglia. From this point a ‘vicolo’ leads to the Chiesa del Gancelliere (PI. C, 3), founded in 1171 by Matteo di Aiello, and restored in 1590; in the first chapel on the left is an Adoration, by Antonio da Saliba (1490). In the small Piazza Bologni (PI. G, 3), where the victims of the Inquisition were formerly executed, is a statue of Charles V. by Livolsi (1630). To the W. stands the Palazzo Villafranca ^ to the E. the Post Office., in the old church of S. Nicola. Farther on we come to the Quattro Canti (PI. C, 3), or Piazza Vigliena^ a small octagonal piazza, situated in the very heart of the city. It was constructed by the viceroy Marquis de Yillena in 1609. The four facades looking towards the piazza are embellished with columns and statues of the Seasons, Spanish kings , and the holy virgins of Palermo. — In the S. angle of the piazza rises the over- decorated church of N. Giuseppe de" Teatini{P\. C, 3; beginning of the 17th cent.). The baroque angels bearing the holy water vessel are by Marabitti, and the frescoes by Tancredi and Borromanus. This church was the scene of the meetings of the people under Giuseppe d’Alesi (1647). The crypt, or lower church (Madonna della Providenza) , is also remarkable. Passing this church , we turn to the right into the Via Mac- QUEDA, and reach one of the most interesting quarters of the town. On the left side of this street is the Piazza Pretoria (PI. C, 3), with a large Fountain executed about 1550 by the Florentine sculp- tors Gamilliani and Yagherino, and originally destined for a villa of the viceroy Garcia di Toledo. The Palazzo della Gitta or Palazzo Municipale, on the right, contains statues of a Roman and his wife in the court, a Genius of Palermo (15th cent.) on the staircase, and a Greek *Statue (Antinous or Apollo) on the first floor (stair- case to the left at the end of the court; fee 30 c.). — In this piazza are also the old Pal. Serradifalco , and the side-entrance to the church of S. Caterina (end of 16th cent.), the interior of which is gorgeously decorated in the baroque style. Farther on, in a small piazza on the left side of the Yia Mac- queda, is a flight of a steps ascending to the right to two Norman churches (restored; adm. 8-4, 1 fr.. Sun. free). The smaller church, dedicated to S. Cataldo, was begun in 1161 ; of its three domes the central one is supported by four columns. The original altar, and the mosaic pavement of the interior are still preserved; outside, the old Arabian battlemented frieze is visible. 254 Route 23. PALERMO. Martorana. The larger church of *La Martorana (PL B, C, 3,4) was erected ill 1143 by Georgios Aiitiocherios, grand-admiral of Roger I. , and from him derived its original name of S. Maria delV Ammiraglio. It was the meeting-place of the Sicilian parliament, after the ex- pulsion of the house of Anjou. Adm. 9-4, 1 fr. ; Sun. after 10, free. The church was originally quadrangular, with three apses, and a dome borne by four columns in the Byzantine style, and was adorned inside and out with mosaics, probably by Greek artists. The nuns of the convent of Martorana, presented in 1433 with the church, caused the edifice to be extended towards the W. In 1684 the central apse was replaced by a square chapel, and in 1726 the work of destruction was carried still farther by the removal of the mosaics from the walls. The dome, injured by an earthquake, was also removed in 1726. Since 1872, however, an attempt has been made to restore the church to its original shape by the removal of many old additions. The vestibule contains two columns, with Arabic inscriptions, perhaps taken from a mosque, and two mosaic-pictures, prob- ably from the original facade. The mosaic to the left represents the ad- miral Georgios Antiochenos at the feet of the Virgin (only the head and hands are old; the rest dates from a poor restoration in the 17th cent.); that on the right represents King Roger crowned by Christ. — The mod- ern coloured drawing on the side-wall is an imitation of the original decoration. A wooden model shows the shape of the original apse. To the right in the Via Macqueda is situated the University (PL 0, 3), attended by about 1100 students, with important natural history collections, among which the fishes in the zoological , the fossil mammalia in the palaeontological , and the fine specimens of Sicilian sulphur and articles found in caves in the geological department are the most interesting. — The Via delT Universita and the Via Rimpetto lead hence to the right to the former Jesuits' Church (PL B, 3) , completed in 1683 , and overladen with orna- ment. Adjoining it is the Bihlioteca Comunale, entered by a Doric vestibule in the street to the right, and containing a most valuable collection of books and MSS. relative to Sicilian history. On the first floor is the reading-room, open daily from 9 to 4. — Thence we follow the Vicolo S. Michele Arcangelo and cross the narrow Piazza Ballaro to the Piazza del Carmine , in which is the church Del Carmine Maggiore (PL B, 3), a magnificent building of the 17th cent.; in the 1st chapel to the right: Novelli, S. Andrea Corsini; 3rd chapel on the right: Statue of St. Catharine, 1521; chapel to the right of the choir, copy after Tomm. deVigilia. The Vicolo Fiumetorte, the second side-street to the right in the Via dell’ Albergheria, leads to the small Piazza della Parocchia air Albergheria. The Norman tower of S. Niccolh (PL B, 3) ap- pears to the left, in the Via S. Niccolo d^ Albergheria. To the right the Salita Benfratelli leads to the street and church of 8 . Chiara (PL B, 3), containing a Pieta by Novelli, and thence to the mediaeval Palazzo Raffadale. — Farther on in the Via Porta di Castro (PL B, 2), a ‘vicolo’ diverges to the right to the Palazzo del Conte Federico^ with scanty remains of the mediaeval erection. The Via Macqueda ends at the Porta 8. Antonino (PL A, 4), outside of which is the Railway 8tation (PL A, 4). CoTSO Via. Kmanuelt. PALERMO. Route. 255 The Via Divisi, diverging to the left from the Via Macqueda, between tlie Quattro Canti and the Porta S. Antonino, leads to the little church of 8. Maria di tutte le Orazie (PI. B, 4), a line specimen of 15th cent. Gothic, and thence to the Piazza della Ri- VOLUZIONE, so called because the revolutionary standard was here first unfurled in 1848. Its former name was ‘Fiera Vecchia’ or old market. The statue of the Genius of Palermo was removed in 1849 by the Bourbon government, but restored in 1860 by the people. — We next cross the Piazza S. Carlo and Piazza Aragona to the Piazza della Croce de’ Vespri, in the centre of which rises a marble column with a cross, surrounded by a railing of lances and halberds, erected in 1737 to the memory of the French buried here in 1282 (the original is now in theMuseoNazionale). — T]ie Palazzo Settimo in the Via delTeatro S. Cecilia contains a valuable library. — The Via Garibaldi (PI. B, 4) leads to the S. from the Piazza della Rivoluzione to the Porta Garibaldi (PI. A, 4), by which Garibaldi entered the town on 27th May, 1860. On the left side of this street is the Palazzo Aiutamicristo ; the door and one side of the court date from the original building, erected by Matteo Carnevale in 1490. — The next side-street leads to the Piazza della Magione (p. 257). If we follow the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and cross the Quattro Canti in the direction of the sea, we reach the church of S. Matteo, which contains a fine picture of the Virgin and St. Anna by Novelli (4th chapel to the left) and statues by Ser~ potta. Farther on is a small piazza on the left, where the Sea- gate of the old town of Palermo was situated down to the 16th century. Thence we proceed through a gate inscribed ‘Domus Dei Porta Coeli’ into a passage, which leads to the church of S. An- tonio (PI. C, 4), a structure of the early part of the 13th cent., restored after an earthquake in 1823 but freely modernized. It contains scanty remains of the original mosaics. The Byzantine plan corresponded with those of La Martorana and S. Cataldo (p. 253), but has been altered in the late-Gothic style. — At the end of the Salita di S. Antonio are some curious old mediaeval buildings (to the left). Returning to the Corso Vitt. Emanuele, we soon reach the Via Cintorinai, a cross-street on the right, leading to S. Francesco de’ Chiodari (PL C, 4), in the piazza of that name. This church has a Norman fa(^ade (restored) , with columns from a Saracenic building. In the modernized interior are remains of frescoes by Pietro Novelli. To the right as we quit the church is the Vicolo delT Immacolata di S. Francesco, No. 5 in which is the Oratorio DI San Lorenzo (visitors knock at the door at the top of the stair to the left in the court; adm. at 8 a.m. and 3 p.m., and occasion- ally at other hours also). In the interior are excellent stucco-figures by SerpottUj a Nativity by Michelangelo da Caravaggio.^ and intarsia- work and wood-carving of the 18th century. The vicolo ends in the 256 Route 23. PALERMO. Piazza Marina. Via delParlamento, with the former convent of 8. Francesco^ where the Sicilian parliament of 1848 met. — To the right, in the Via Cintorinai (No. 48), is the Palazzo Briuccia (formerly Pal. Catto- iica), with a fine court. Farther on the Corso Vitt. Emanuele emerges on the Piazza Marina (see below). To the left is the new government Finance Office (PI. C, 5), opposite which is the Fontana del Oaraffo, hy Amato (1698). — At the corner of the Via Fonderia is the church di Porto Salvo, a Renaissance edifice, divided into two in 1581. — At the beginning of the side-street on the left leading to the small harbour of La Cala, which is sheltered from the E. wind by a pier, is the small church of 8. Maria della Catena (PI. C, 5), erected towards the close of the 15th cent, on the site of an earlier edifice. The name refers to the chain with which the mouth of the harbour used to be closed. The charming vestibule exhibits the unusually depressed form of arch frequently seen in S. Italy towards the close of the Gothic period. The loggia overlooks the harbour. Continuing to follow the Corso Vitt. Emanuele, we reach the Piazza S. Spirito (PI. C, 5), with the Conservatorio of that name (PI. C, D, 5), founded in 1608, formerly a hospice, and now the Foundling Hospital ; on the facade is a Carit^ by Vincenzo Riolo. Nearly opposite is the house (No. 12), marked by an inscription, in which Goethe lodged in 1787. Beyond the piazza is the Porta Felice (PI. C, 6), so named after Felice Orsini, wife of the viceroy Colonna, a tasteful baroque edifice begun in 1582, but by no means improved by the fountains and statues added on the seaward side in 1644. The steps on the right lead to the terrace of the Palazzo Butera, which commands a fine view. The Piazza Marina (PI. C, 5) is almost wholly occupied by the pleasure-grounds of the Giardino Garibaldi, with their beau- tiful trees. In the S. corner of the square stands the church of 8. Maria dei Miracoli, built in 1547. On the S.E. side is the Palazzo Chiaramonti, generally called Lo Steri (i.e. Hoster- ium), erected subsequent to 1307 by the Chiaramonte family. After the execution of Andrea Chiaramonte in 1392 , the palace was occupied by courts of justice. At a later period it became the residence of the viceroys, and in 1600 the seat of the Inquisi- tion. In the present century it has again become the Palazzo dei Tribunali. One of the halls still preserves its wooden ceiling of the 14th century. The door to the right leads through the Dogana to the fine court, and to the adjoining palace-chapel of 8 . Antonio Abbate, with a restored facade. On the S. side of the piazza is the modern Palazzo San Cataldo, to the right of which the Vicolo Palagonia leads to the earlier Palazzo 8. Cataldo, a good early-Renaissance building (only a few windows visible from the street), and to the left the Via Quattro Aprile to Marine. rALERMO. 23. Route. 257 the monastery della Gangia{?\. B, G, 5), the monks of which have taken an active part in every revolution, including that of 18B0. The Church dates from the 15th century. In the 2nd chapel to the right, Antonio da Palermo., Madonna di Monserrato (1528) ; beyond the 5th chap, to the right, a sculptured pulpit (Hesurrection and the P]vangelist8), and in front on the choir-pillars, two figures (Annunciation) by Oagini. The choir contains line carved stalls. Next the choir, to the left, Vincenzo di Pavia., Sposalizio i 3rd chap, to the left, Novelli., S. Pietro di Alcantara. Farther on in the Via Alloro (PI. B, G, 5) is the Palazzo Abbatelli (1495 ; now a convent of the nuns della Pieta), with a Spanish motto over the door, and, at the end of the street, the church della Field (PI. G, 5), a baroque edifice of 1680. The Yicolo dei Gattivi, oppo- site, leads to the promenade-terraces and the Pal. Butera(p. 256). The Via Torremuzza leads from the Pieta church to that of S. Teresa^ in the Piazza della Kalsa (PI. B, 6) , so called from the Arabic name (‘Kalesa’, ‘chosen’) for the new town, and em- bellished with a marble statue of Giov. Meli, the poet. To the E. is the Palazzo Baucina (formerly Pal. Forcella'), with the Porta dei Greci (PI. B, 6), which owes its name to the Greeks who inhabited this suburb during the middle ages. The Via della Vittoria alio Spasimo leads to the left of S. Teresa to the Piazzetta dello Spasimo, in which, at the corner to the left, is a Renaissance palace, begun ip 1542, adjoined by the entrance to the ancient church of 8. Maria della Vittoria (PI. B, 5). In the first chapel to the right in this church is shown the door through which Robert Guiscard entered the city. — Farther on, in the large open space to the left, rise the massive arches of the church of 8. Maria dello 8pasimo (PI. B, 5; key at the Museo), an unfinished building dating from the beginning of the 16th cent, (now a hos- pital). Raphael painted his Ghrist bearing the Gross, now in Madrid, for this church. — Beyond the little Piazza Vitriera is the Piazza DELLA Magione (PI. B, 5). At the end of the piazza (to the right) we see the choir of the church, to the right of which we reach the monastery and a dark passage to the side-entrance, thence we skirt the entire block of houses to the left, and finally traverse a kind of hall to the court of the Magione (PI. B, 5). The church, disfigured by a modern Doric porch, was founded for the Gistercians about 1150 by Matteo di Aiello, and presented to the Teutonic Order in 1193 by Henry VI. as a ‘mansio’. The N. aisle contains tombs of knights of the order, of the 15th century. A beautiful walk is afforded by the * Marina (PI. G, B, 6), officially called the Foro Italico, a quay extending to the S. from the Porta Felice along the sea, commanding fine views towards the S. as far as the promontory of Monte Gatalfano (to the right of which Mt. ^Etna is visible in clear weather above Bagheria), and, to the N., of the beautiful Mte. Pellegrino. In summer and autumn the fashionable citizens of Palermo congregate here to listen to the band. At the S. end of the Marina lies the Flora, or *Villa Giulia Baedeker. Italy III. 12th Edition. 17 258 Route 23. PALERMO. Botanic Garden. (PI. B, A, 6), which is entered from the Via Lincoln, a street leading towards the W. to the Porta S. Antonino. This public garden , one of the most beautiful in Italy , first laid out in 1777, has been considerably extended and improved in 1872. The air here in spring is laden with the delicious and aromatic perfumes of oranges, citrons, Erythrina corallodendron, Cercis siliquastrum, and other blossoming trees and shrubs. Opposite the main entrance, at the end of the garden, stands the most important work of recent Palermitan sculpture, consisting of a group of the famous Greek naval heroes, the brothers Canaris, executed by Benedetto Civiletti. Adjoining the Flora is the "^Botanic Garden (PI. A, B, 6), which deserves a visit (V4"V2 the gardener). The beautiful avenue of Date Palms and Cycas Revoluta will attract the attention of every visitor. Near the entrance are two Australian Coco-trees.^ while scattered throughout the grounds are fine specimens of Latania Borbonica^ Corypha Australis., Musa Ensete., Bananas., Bamboos (at- taining a height of 45 ft.), Strelitzia., Wigandia., Philodendron Pertusum., Australian Myrtaceae., Melaleucea., etc. In one of the water-basins are a* few Papyrus Plants. Some of the flowering -plants in the greenhouses are of astonishing brilliancy. Following the N. half of the Via Macqueda (PI. C, D, 3) from the Quattro Canti (p. 253) in the direction of the Porta Macqueda, we reach on the right, beside a flight of steps descending to the Piazza Nuova (PI. 0, 3), the little church of 8. Maria della Volta., with a Madonna by Brescianino (at the 2nd altar to the right). Giu- seppe d’Alessi (p. 248) was assassinated here in 1647. — Beyond the Piazza Nuova lies the Piazza Oaraccioli, the old meat and vegetable market. The Via Argenteria leads straight on, past the interesting Renaissance facade of 8 . Eulalia de' Catalani (PI. G, 4), to the busy Piazza Garaffello, No. 16 in which, formerly the Loggia dei Oenovesi, bears a bust of Charles V. The Via Bandiera (PI. D, 3, 4), which diverges to the right from the Via Macqueda, farther on, leads to the church of 8. Pietro Mar~ tire, which contains paintings by Novelli (Entombment, Madonna della Grazia) , and the Palazzo Pietratagliata (formerly Pal. Ter- mini), dating from the 15th century. In the other direction from the Via Macqueda, the Via S. Agos- tino (PI. D, 2, 3) leads to the church , of 8. Agostino, the Gothic facade of which dates from the 14th cent. , and on to the Mercato Nuovo (PI. D, 2), in which is the pretty little Renaissance church of 8. Marco (PI. D, 2). — Farther on in the direction of the cathe- dral lies the church of 8. Agata li 8coruggi (PI. G, 2), containing frescoes of the 16th cent., paintings by Zoppo di Ganci, an Adoration by Wolberch (1586), a Dutch painter , and a fountain with won- der-working water (usually closed). At the end of the Via Macqueda is the Teatro Vittorio Emanuele or Massimo (PI. D, 3), begun by the architect Basile (d. 1891), for the completion of which the city has voted 1,600,000 fr. — Outside Museum. FALKRMO. 23. Route. 259 tho Porta Macqueda (PI. I), E, 8) extends tlie Piazza Uuggikko Skttimo (^Pl. E, F, 8), whicli is embellished with a garden. Statues of two Sicilian patriots have been erected here : on the right that of Ruggiero Settirno (^p. 287 ; d. 1862, honorary president of the Italian senate); on the left that of Carlo Cottone.^ Principe di Castet- nuovo, who was minister in 1812, during the brief parliamentary government of Sicily (p. 237). On one side of the piazza stands the Politeama Garibaldi (^p. 247). — The Via della Liherth (PI. G, 3, 4), which leads to the N. from the piazza, is the fashionable ‘corso’ on winter afternoons. — A little farther on is the Giardino Inglese (PI. G, H, 2), with pleasant grounds, and adorned with busts of Garibaldi, Bixio, and others. Opposite the entrance to the gardens is an Equestrian Statue of Garibaldi, by Vine. Ragusa., erected in 1892, representing the general in the act of addressing his friend Bixio after the battle of Calatafimi with the words ‘Nino, domani a Palermo’. The bronze reliefs on the pedestal, representing ‘I Mille’ (p. 237) at Calatafimi and Capua, and the Lion of Caprera breaking the chains of tyranny, 4re by Mario Rutelli. The Via della Bara (PI. D, 3), beginning opposite the theatre, leads to the Piazza dell’ Olivella, in which is the church of the same name (PI. 0,3; 2nd chapel to the right, Adoration of the Child, by Lorenzo di Credi). The adjoining suppressed monastery del Filippini contains the — *Museo Nazionale (PI. D, 3). The museum is open daily, 10-3 (Sun. 11-3), except on public holidays, the last three days of the Carnival, and during Passion Week. Admission 1 fr. ; on Sundays gratis. Ground Floor. We first enter a small colonnaded Court (I. Cortile) 'with, mediaeval and Renaissance sculptures and inscrip- tions. To the right of the entrance is a painted statue of the Madonna (about 1500); and in the middle is a Triton (16th cent.) from a fountain in the royal palace, behind which is the column from the Piazza Croce de’ Yespri (p. 255). On the second wall is a tufa al- tar, with Gothic ornamentation from the beginning of the 16th century. — We pass under a pointed arch (from the Palazzo Scla- fani) in the middle of the wall to the adjoining Hall of St. George, with an altar ascribed to A. Gagini (1526). To the left of the altar is a double-portrait in relief. Here also are a gilded and painted statue of the Madonna (about 1500) and a portrait-head from the period of the Renaissance. — On the third wall of the little colonnaded court to the right is a very graceful statue of the Ma- donna, by A. Gagini; also a beautiful relief of the Madonna. Two doorways, with frames richly ornamented in the Renaissance style, lead to two small rooms, containing two state-coaches of the 18th century. — Between the tasteful columns from the Pal. Sclafani is the staircase ascending, to the upper floors ; see p. 262. 17 * 260 Route 23. PALERMO. Museum. The Second Court (11. Cortile) , formerly the cloisters, con- tains ancient inscriptions and sculptures ; to the left (of unknown origin) : 370. Cyhele ; farther on, to the right, iEsculapius; Selene and Eros (conceived as standing before the sleeping Endymion); between 368 and 369, Alcaeus. Then small tomb -reliefs from Athens ; almost at the end of the wall, small fragment of a Greek relief of a youth standing. — By the opposite wall (to the left of the entrance), antiquities of Sicilian origin : Fragment of a tripod, with a snake ; 704. Isis ; 464. Phoenician inscription with a drawing cut into the stone, from Lilybaeum; to the right, on a half-column, sun-dial from Tyndaris ; architectural fragments from Soluntum ; Woman sitting between two lions, which, judging from their coverings in front, had human bodies, also from Soluntum; two beautiful little Pompeian wall-paintings of theatrical subjects and three of a larger size from Soluntum. — In front of the cross-wall is a statue of Zeus, from Tyndaris, extensively restored; at each side of it, a Roman marble candelabrum; to the left, a seated Jupiter, from Soluntum ; to the right, Claudius (?), a sitting figure mostly of plaster, between two Roman statuettes in porphyry and granite in the Egyptian style ; in front, a Greek terracotta sarcophagus. Straight on is a narrow vestibule, the Saladellb Terrecotte, with numerous objects in clay : reliefs and masks, used as archi- tectonic ornaments, small votive figures of the gods, some from the 6th and 5th cent. B. C., also figures of animals; of a later period, graceful genre compositions, and painted female figures, resembling those found at Tanagra (by the entrance-wall, to the left; and in the case in the little room to the right) ; lamps ; on the entrance- wall (right), terracotta slabs from the most antique temples of Se- linus (explanatory drawings at the windows). — The larger half of this vestibule is occupied by a cast of one of the colossal Atlantes or Telamones and portions of the columns and the capitals from the temple of Zeus at Girgenti. We now pass to the right through a small room (which contains two Phoenician sarcophagi from Cannita, to the E. of Palermo, Museum. PALERMO. 23. Route. 261 showing Greek influence) into the Sala del Musaici, the floor and walls of which are decorated with the large stone-mosaics found in the Piazza della Vittoria in 18B9. That on the floor represents various mythological subjects, and two large heads of Apollo and Neptune, the latter of wliich is particularly fine; that on the wall represents Orpheus charming the animals. Here also are some Pal- erman inscriptions, one (^390) a Christian example of the year 448. We again turn to the right and enter the Sala del Fauno. In the centre is a handsome youth with an ointment-flask. By the en- trance-wall, an admirable Satyr from Torre del Greco. Behind, head of a bearded Bacchus and archaistic statues of Athene and Aphrodite from Partinico (partly restored). — By the second wall: cornice with beautiful gargoyles in the form of lions’ heads (5th cent. B.O.) from Himera ; headless statue. In the centre, tufa sarcophagus from Girgenti. Beside the door, two excellent Roman portrait-statues from Tyndaris. The Sala dblle Metope contains the celebrated * Metopes of Selinus. As that city (p. 280) was founded in 627 B.C. and de- stroyed in 429B.C., these metopes illustrate the development of Hellenic sculpture from its beginning until a period shortly before its culminating point (comp. pp. xxvi-xxx). — To the left, be- tween portions of the massive entablature (largely restored) of the oldest temple (see p. 281 ; Temple 0), three Metopes dating from about 600 B. C., and exhibiting the peculiar characteristics of the Doric race in spite of all the embarrassments of an incipient art. They consist of the same yellow variety of tufa as all the others. Peculiarities are the exaggerated thickness of the limbs, the un- natural position of the body, seen partly full-face and partly from the side, and the fixed expression of face, with large mouth and projecting eyes. 1. Quadriga, in almost complete relief; beside the charioteer (CEnomausV), remains of two female forms, raising garlands. (There is a similar relief in the Sala delle Terrecotte, on the case to the left of the door.) — 2. Perseus, with helmet and sandals, beheading the Medusa, from whom Pegasus rises. The head of the Gorgon retains the appearance usually assigned to it at that period, when painted on walls or vessels to scare the evil-disposed. Behind the hero stands Athene , on whose robe (and also on the ground) are traces of red pigment. — 3. Hercules Melampygos with the Cercopes. — In the cabinet, architectural and sculptured fragments (fine feet) from Selinus ; iron and lead fastenings from the metopes. Beyond a number of heterogeneous fragments we notice the lower halves of two Metopes from a later temple (F), perhaps contemporaneous with the sculptures from the temple of ^gina, now at Munich, i.e. about the beginning of the 5th cent. B. C. They represent a contest between the gods and giants, and are marked by vigour and fidelity to nature (especially the 2nd metope). 262 Route 23. PALERMO. Museum. The four ^Metopes on the rear-wall date from the period when the art of sculpture had almost reached its highest development (Temple E). They produce an exceedingly picturesque effect be- tween the narrow triglyphs, hut although they reveal skill in com- position, as well as a delicacy of execution in some of the details (the nude portions of the female figures , for example , are inlaid with white marble), they yet fall short of the freedom of action and drapery and of the sense of beauty that characterised Attic Art. — 1. Hercules slaying Hippolyta; 2. Zeus and Hera on Mt. Ida; 3. Actaeon and Diana; 4. Athene slaying the giant Enceladus. — On a stand, fragments of cornices with delicate ornamentation. By the window-wall is another Metope, defaced by exposure. Below it, a Greek inscription of the 6th cent, recounting the gods who granted victory to Selinus. Then, architectural fragments from Selinus, some of which hear traces of colour (dark-red and blue on a white background of stucco). At the end, larger fragments from the so-called ^dicula of Empedocles at Selinus, a chapel of the 5th cent. B. C. To the left of the entrance are two Metopes, with the Rape of Europa and a Sphinx (?), and to the right another en- tirely defaced, all exhumed in 1891 at Selinus. The next three rooms contain a portion of the collection of Etruscan sculptures (Museo Etrusco). We now return to the first court, and ascend the staircase men- tioned at p. 260. (On the landing, halfway up, to the right, is a room with modern forged sculptures from Giardini, near Taormina.) First Floor. We turn first to the left and ascend a few steps to the Sala del Medio Evo: to the right, fragment of a wooden ceil- ing in the Saracenic-Norman style, referred to the period of the Hohenstaufen on account of the repeatedly recurring eagle; majo- lica tiles (from 1500); in the first glass-case, works in ivory and glass ; in the second case , pottery from Palermo ; in the 3rd case, pottery from Faenza (the largest vessel dates from 1558) and Urhino; at the foot, platters from the Ahruzzi; in the 4th case, Palerman pottery of the ITth century. Between the first two cases Museum. PALERMO. 2.?. Route. 263 are an inlaid table and an inlaid chest. — On the rear-wall, to the left of the entrance, Neapolitan majolica, an inlaid wooden casket, miniatures of the 15th cent., and a Byzantine evaiigeliarium, with psalter, said to have belonged to the Empress Constance. — Arabian Antiquities (^‘oggetti arabi’) , the most important being the fine bronze vessels. Magnificent white and gold terracotta vase from Mazzara, placed opposite a wooden door-frame from the convent of La Martorana. Fine vessels of white clay, vessels from the vaulting of the Martorana. Among the bronzes is an astrolabe of 955. In the corner two majolica dishes of the 15th century. At the top, a cast of the Arabic inscription (1180) in La Cuba, mentioned at p. 270. The next room contains early Italian and Netherlandish pic- tures, modern sculptures, etc., bequeathed by the late Marchesa di Torre Arse, Duchess of Serradifalco (d. 1854). A Bacchante from Villareale should be noticed. We retrace our steps through these rooms and traverse the CoRRiDOio DI PoNENTE (containing Sicilian weights and measures) to the CoRRiDoio DI Mezzogiorno, which contains portraits and mementoes of the revolutions of 1848 and 1860, and other periods of Sicilian history. To the right : bust of Juan Fern. Pacheco, Mar- quis of Villena; portraits of Giacomo Amato (d. 1732), the archi- tect, Serpotta (d. 1732) andMarabitti (d. 1797), the sculptors, and farther on of Admiral Gravina , who fought at Trafalgar, and of Ferdinand IV., King of Naples, at a tunny-fishery. To the right is the Room of the Antique Bronzes. To the right, Hercules and the Cerynsean hind, a fine fountain-group, excavated at Pompeii in 1805; to the left, large *Ram, almost ideally life- like, said to have been at Syracuse since the 11th century. On the walls, bronze weapons and vessels, and leaden water-pipes. Three Pompeian paintings, the largest representing a hunt. We return to the Greek Vases. In the first room , the oldest vases, from Gela, are to the right, those from lower Italy to the left. — The place of origin of the vases in the second room is given on each cabinet. They are partly Corinthian of the 6th cent. B. C. (those to the right, from Selinus), partly Attic (those to the left, from Gela). Among the Attic vases, in the centre of the room. No. 656. Despatch of Triptolemus; 1628. Apollo and Artemis, Bacchus and Ariadne (5th and 4th cent. B. C.). Under glass, Vase with a frag- ment of coral that has grown to it. The Corridoio di Tramontana contains prehistoric antiquities found in Sicily, pottery, weapons of the flint period. Etruscan bronzes, including mirror-cases with reliefs and engraved designs (Apollo and Artemis; Leto and Thalia, etc.); large lamp from Selinus, of the Christian period ; weapons and implements ; caduceus from Imachara; catapult projectiles of lead, inscribed with the name of L. Piso, the Roman commander in the Servile War; Phoenician projectiles. — Ivory articles : ^Tessera hospitalis’ from Lilybieum, 264 Route 23. PALERMO. Museum. bearing two hands and the inscription ‘Token of hospitable alliance between Himilcho Hannibal Chloros and Lycon , son of Diognetes’; also handles of clay vessels, with the stamps of Greek and Phoe- nician factories. — A door to the left opens on the Collection of Coins. Two cases to the right contain modern coins, medals, seals, etc. In the iirst and third cases in the middle of the room are ecclesiastical vessels, in the second Byzantine and Limoges ena- mels; antique ornaments, including gold wreaths from tombs, silver libulae, rings set with stones, Byzantine ring with small figures in niello; in the fourth, modern coins, etc. The case to the left con- tains impressions in clay of Greek and Phoenician seals , from Temple C at Selinus. — On the other side of the case is an ex- cellent collection of ancient Sicilian coins. The last room contains ecclesiastical objects ; works in coral from Trapani, of the 17th cent. ; horse-trappings of the Marquis Villena; tapestry of the 17th century. — The chapel at the end of the cor- ridor contains ecclesiastical vestments from the monastery of S. Gita. The Second Floor contains the Picture Gallery. Catalogues are attached to all the doors. Immediately to the left are a few By- zantine pictures : 400. St. John (with wings), Lazarus, and Christ in Hades, 12th cent.; 401. St. John, Sicilian copy, signed ‘Petrus Lampardus’. — To the right, in the Corridoio di Ponente, altar- pieces of the 14th and 15th cent., the chief of which are 79 & 82. Coronation of the Virgin. Most of them retain their old Gothic frames. — In the Corridoio di Mezzogiorno : to the right, 85. An- tonio Crescenzio (?), Madonna and saints; 165. Gius. Albina (il Sozzo)^ Madonna between two angels; 498. Tommaso de Vigilia (15th cent.), S. Maria del Carmine. To the left: 365. Antonello Crescenzio, rough copy of Raphael's Spasimo; to the right, 814. An- tonio Crescenzio (?), Madonna and S. Rosalia. The First Room, the Sala del Romano, principally contains pic- tures by Vincenzo di Pavia (p. 244): 91. Scourging of Christ, with the inscription, ‘expensis nationis Lombardorum, 1542’; 88-93. Six scenes from the youth of Christ, the finest of which is 93. Pre- sentation in the Temple ; 104. Coronation of the Virgin, inscribed ^Scuola Messinese', probably of German origin. 97. Curious repre- sentation of the Madonna as the deliverer of souls from purgatory ; 103. St. Thomas Aquinas , victorious over the heretic Averrhoes, and surrounded by a numerous congregation, by Antonello da Sa- liba. 102. Descent from the Cross, sombre but harmonious in colouring, tender in sentiment, and admirably executed, Vincen- zo’s masterpiece. 169. St. Conrad, with predellas. The Second Room , the Sala del Novelli , is chiefly hung with works of that painter, the last great Sicilian master (p. 244), of whose style they afford a good illustration : 120. Portrait of him- self; 110. Madonna enthroned, with saints; 114. Delivery of Pe- ter from prison. 194-196. Remains of a fresco from the Spedale *.9. Domenico, PALERMO. noute. 265 Grande; 105. Coloured sketch of the same; 337. Virgin Mary and St. Anna; 112. Communion of Mary Magdalen. Among Novelli’s favourite and frequently recurring types arc remarkably tall and almost exaggerated forms, especially in the case of female figures, but in his delineation of characters advanced in life he rivals the best masters of the Neapolitan school. Adjoining the Sala del Novell! is a cabinet containing an ex- cellent wooden model of the largest temple of Selinus (G, p. 282). The gem of the collection, a work of the highest merit, is pre- served under glass in the Gabinetto Malvagna , adjoining the Sala del Romano : 59. A small Altar-piece with wings, or trip- tych, of the School of Van Eyck. This picture would not be unworthy of John van Eyck himself, but the clear colouring and the miniature-like execution point to some later master. At present it is described as an early work of Mabuse (1470- 1532). The period thus selected is probably right, but the types of the heads point rather to Jacob Kornelissen^ an important Dutch painter, who has only of late become as well known as he deserves to be. When the shutters are closed the spectator is presented with a scene of Adam and Eve in a richly peopled Paradise. Adam’s head is very naturalistic, but the figure is not inaccurately drawn. In the background is an angel driv- ing the pair out at the gate of Paradise. On the wings being opened, we perceive in the central scene a Madonna in a red robe, enthroned on a broad Gothic choir-stall, with her flowing hair covered with a white cloth. In her lap is the Infant Christ; on each side of her are angels sing- ing and playing on instruments, beautiful and lifelike figures. On the left wing is represented St. Catharine, on the right wing St. Dorothea, the former holding up a richly executed ring, the latter with white and red roses in her lap, and both with angels at their side. The delicate execution of the trinkets on the drapery of the female figures and the pleasing land- scape in the background as far as the extreme distance are really admirable. This is one of the very finest works of the early Flemish school. It formerly belonged to the Principe di Malvagna, and was presented to the museum as a ‘Dtirer’. The brown case, covered with leather and adorned with Gothic ornaments, is pi'obably coeval with the picture itself. This cabinet also contains : 60. Oarofalo^ Madonna ; Correggio Head of Christ ; 406. Raphael (?), Judith ; 58. Memling (?), Madonna ; 48. Holbein (?), Portrait; 236. P. Potter (?), Landscape with bull. The Third Room (Scuole Diverse) contains nothing of import- ance. Luca Giordano j St. Michael; 202. Vdnno Pisant, Madon- na; 73. Barth, de Camulio (Oamogli) , Madonna (1346) ; 535. Fil. Paladini^ St. Michael; 10, 14, 16. Fr. Guardi., Views in Venice; 538. Mario del Pino^ Conversion of St. Paul; 534. Vasari, Manna. The corridor to the left contains engravings. At the end and in the two adjoining rooms are paintings by Novelli and others ascrib- ed to Rubens., Velazquez., etc., bequeathed by Sig. Agostino Gallo. The rooms behind contain frescoes by Tommaso de Vigilia (p. 264). A number of paintings of the Flemish and Venetian Schools, Van Dyck, Palma Vecchio, Guido Reni, Claude Lorrain, and modern masters are arranged in small rooms also opening off this corridor. The ViaMonteleone leads from the Piazza dell’ Olivella (p. 259) to the church of S. Domenico (PI. D, 4), erected in 1640, and 266 Route 23. PALERMO. S. Cita. capable of accommodating 12,000 people. It contains several good pictures by Novelli and Vincenzo di Pavia, and the tombs and mon- uments of Meli, Piazzi, Scin&, Novelli, Ventura, Serradifalco, Rug- gero Settimo, Amari, and numerous other eminent Sicilians. On the left corner-pillar of the chapel to the right of the choir is a very tasteful relief of the Madonna and angels by Ant. Gagini, and to the right a Pietk of his school. — In the Via Bamhinai behind the church is the Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario (key at No. 16), with decorations in stucco by Serpotta, and an altar-piece by *Van Dyck: Madonna del Rosario. It also contains some good paintings by Novelli. The key is kept at No. 16, below; knock at the small door in the narrow passage to the left of the staircase. In the neighbourhood is the church of S. Cita (PI. D , 4), erected in 1586. In the choir, concealed by the high-altar, are three coloured reliefs by Ant. Gagini, representing St. Antony with the Centaur, St. Jerome, and (above) a Madonna with angels. The last is one of several replicas in Palermo of the relief in S. Domenico (see above). The chapel to the left of the choir, with sarcophagi, tombstones, and a crypt, belongs to the prince of Tra- bia. — In the Via Valverde, to the left, behind S. Gita, is the Oratorio, with fine stucco decoration by Serpotta. The seats are inlaid with mother-of-pearl; and at the table, near the entrance, is a large slab of agate. The altar-piece (II Rosario) is by C. Ma- ratta. — The Via del Seminario diverges to the right from the Via Valverde, farther on, to the Seminario Greco and the church of S. Niccolo dei Greci, with Greek ‘Iconostasis’. The seminary and church belong to the Albanian colony. Opposite the main portal of S. Cita rises the fine Norman gate of the Conservatory of Music, through which we reach the church of S. Annunziata (1345; closed), with a Renaissance facade of 1591, in the Via Squarcialupo. — Then S. Giorgio dei Genovesi (PI. D, 4), a fine Renaissance church of 1591, the arches of which are each borne by four columns. In the first chapel to the right : L. Giordano, II Rosario ; at the high-altar , Palma Vecchio, St. George ; above the entrance, Paladino, St. Luke. — Close by in the Via Principe Scordia is a statue of FLorio, the founder of the well-known steam- boat society (d. 1892), erected in 1875. In this new quarter out- side the Porta S. Giorgio is the English Church (PI. E, 4). From the Porta S. Giorgio, near the Fort Castellammare (PI. D, E, 5), which was almost entirely demolished in 1860, we reach the Piazza .delle Tredici Vittime, where thirteen revolutionaries were shot in April, 1860. Their names are inscribed on the obelisk in the centre of the square. Farther on are the harbour of La Cola (PI. D, 5; p. 256) and the little church of Pie di Grotta, built in 1565 above a grotto now enclosed by an ornamental arch. — The Via S. Sebastiano, with the church of that name, leads to the Via Giovanni Meli, immediately to the left in which is the church of 't Marsala, Tr Sohba^Q ( ' as t elV;ii0.d ■ \. ..y.^:m- ¥• ■ I 1 ”:^’ FinDccT^w, - ' \j i'l'^ S.Uoc^^ Ar,^1 r>Kitu/acM^ i/}-abou:c 0 Afe- J //ir.di ' i .^^BdloJampo ''^■^tS&^lcxmpo s 'SetteAn^i C? 4 ilaq>o iTheUc^ 'BeJltjlof/rpc '^j' Fasso (U Fi-gaiio con^. S\c .^dji Romano • CoCUlscoi'. \Kdefomrvl[^ w--"r'v_2» ^Jfma roiciTc Pax CO f Pai’co''f ■iSiSiiiSSiS5SiiSSiiSi™Srp^rtiSco< ■i* Geogr-AiLstalf^rWagner * D eli e s, Leipzig-. r' f La 7Asa. PAI.ERMO. 2.7. Route. 267 S. Maria Nuova (PI. D, 4), restored in the lOtli century. The vestibule recalls that of S. Maria della Catena, and the interior is very pleasingly decorated in the rococo style. Leaving the Porta d’Ossuna (PI. C, 1) and following the Corso Alberto Amedeo to the right, we soon reach, on the left, the Cata- combs (PI. C, D, 1), discovered in 1785, probably of pre-Christian date, but now destitute of monuments. Continuing to follow the Corso Alberto Amedeo to the Corso Olivuzza, we ascend the latter to the Piazza Olivuzza, a few yards before which is the celebrated Villa Butera, now the Villa Florio (PI. D, 1), with its fine gardens. In the Piazza itself is the Villa Serradifalco (inaccessible), also with luxuriant vegetation, now much neglected. The omnibus from the Piazza Marina to Lolli- Olivuzza (for La Zisa and Villa Butera) traverses the Corso Olivuzza. The Via Normanni leads to the left from the Corso Olivuzza to the Piazza Zisa, with the old Norman chateau of La Zisa, now belonging to the Marchese di S. Giovanni (reached from the Piazza Olivuzza by the Via Whitaker in 5 min.). The only remains of the old building, which was erected by William I., are a covered fountain with water descending over marble steps under a dilapi- dated stalactitic vault, and some vaulting with pigeon-holes on the upper floor (custodian next door, to the right; 1 fr.). — To the left of La Zisa is an osteria (good wine). 24. Environs of Palermo, a. Acquasanta. Monte Pellegrino. Favorita. Distances. From the Piazza Marina to Acquasanta., about IV 4 M. (tramway every 10 min., fare 20 c. ; comp. PI. C-H, 4, 5, H, 6, and the Map). — From the Porta S. Giorgio to Falde at the foot of Monte Pelle- grino, 13/4 M. (omnibus from the Porta S. Giorgio, PI. D, E, 4; one-horse can*. IV 2 fr.); thence to the top IV 4 br. (bridle-path; donkey from the town 21/2 fr., with as much more for the attendant). After midday the ascent from Falde is in the shade. Travellers leaving Palermo at 11 a.m. can be back by 6 p.m. — From the Porta Macqueda to the Favorita 3 M. (omnibus from the Porta S. Antonio, traversing the city and then via Porta Macqueda and Via della Liberia; comp. PL D-H, 2, 3, and the Map; one-horse cab, about 4 fr., preferable). The Stradone del Borgo (PI. E , F, 4), the broad road that leaves Palermo by the Porta S. Giorgio (PI. D, E, 4) and skirts the sea, forks at the Piazza Ucciardone (PI. G, 4 ; straight on to the Monte Pellegrino and the Favorita, see pp. 268, 269). We take the branch to the right and follow the Via del Molo and its continuation, the Via dell’ Acquasanta, to the N., past the interesting old English Cemetery j on the right (custodian 15-20 c.), to the village of Acquasanta (Ristorante di Paola), frequented in summer for sea- bathing (p. 246). A few min. from the tramway-terminus is the entrance to the beautiful Villa Belmonte (custodian 30-50 c.). 268 Route 2i. MONTE PELLEGRINO. Rnvirons the fine grounds of which stretch up the slopes of the Monte Pelle- grino; tine *View from the top, especially by evening-light. From Acquasanta to Valdese, visi. Arenella^ seep. 269. The continuation of the Stradone del Borgo again forks at the Piazza Giacchery (PI. II, 4), beside the Carceri or prison. The Via Sampoli leads to the left to the Favorita (p. 270); the Via del Monte Pellegrino to the right to the foot of that mountain, the Punta di Bersaglio, which is within 1/4 M. of Falde, the omnibus-terminus (p. 246J. The * Monte Pellegrino (2065 ft.), the peculiar shape of which renders it easily recognisable from a great distance, is an isolated mass of limestone rock. On the E. side it rises abruptly rom the sea, and on the W. side it slopes more gently towards the Conca d’Oro. Down to the 15th cent, the mountain was clothed with underwood. In B. C. 247-45 Hamilcar Barca settled on the mountain with his soldiers and their families in order to keep the Roman garrison of Panormus in check, and corn was then cultivated here on the Heircte. The fissured cliffs are by no means so bare as they appear to be from a distance, and the grass and herbs that grow upon them afford pasture to large herds of cattle and goats. The construction of a rack-and-pinion railway was begun but has been abandoned. Travellers are dissuaded from using the finished portion for the ascent. The zigzag path, which is visible from the town, cannot be mistaken. It is steep at first but afterwards becomes easier. In 2 - 2 t /2 hrs. we reach an overhanging rock of the summit of the mountain, which may also be reached, though not without diffi- culty, from the opposite side, under which is the Grotto of St. Rosalia^ now converted into a church (dwelling of the ‘proposto’ and priests on the left; bell on the upper floor). St. Rosalia was, ac- cording to tradition, the daughter of Duke Sinibaldo and niece of the Norman King William 11. , the Good, and while in the bloom of youth fled hither from motives of piety. Her bones were discovered in the cavern in 1664, and conveyed to Palermo. Their presence at once banished the plague then raging, and from that time St. Ro- salia has been the patron saint of the city. The grotto is visited by numerous worshippers, especially on Whitmonday. The small decorated cavern in which the holy maiden performed her devotions is shown by candle-light ^ in front of it is a recumbent Statue of the Saint by the Florentine Gregorio Tedeschi, with sumptuously gilded robes. ‘The head and hands of white marble, if not faultless in style, are at least so natural and pleasing that one can hardly help ex- pecting to see the saint breathe and move.’ (Goethe.) — The water which constantly trickles down the sides is carried off in leaden gutters. Bread and wine may be obtained in the cottage 1 min. farther on to the right (dear; bargain beforehand). A steep footpath opposite ascends to the (20 min.) Telegrdfo on the summit of the mountain, which commands an admirable **View of the beautiful basin around Palermo, the numerous headlands of the N. coast, the of Palermo. LA FAVORITA. '24. Route. 209 Lipari Islands, and the distant ^tna. — A path leading straight on from the cottages (and joined by a rough path from tlie Tclegrafo) brings ns in Y 2 ^ small temple on the N.E. side of the mountain, with a colossal but headless statue of the saint, twice struck by lightning; on the ground lie the two heads. View hence towards the sea. Good walkers may cross a stretch of smooth pasture-land, to the W. of the houses (enquire for the beginning of the path), and then descend the Valle dei Porci by very toilsome goat-paths towards the S.W. direct to the (3/4 hr.) Favorita , which we reach beside two round temples (to the chateau, straight on)^ others will prefer to retrace their steps and descend by the same path. In the Conca d’Oro, at the base of Monte Pellegrino on the W. side, and 4 M. from the Porta Macqiieda, is situated the royal chateau of La Favorita, surrounded by numerous villas of the aristocracy of Palermo. This beautiful country-residence was erected by Ferdinand IV. in the Chinese style, and is surrounded by shady walks and extensive grounds. The terrace on the second floor, to which visitors are conducted, commands a beautiful view across the gulf and the Conca d’Oro, as far as the bays of Mondello and Sfera- cavallo . The Favorita is open to the public all day. The omnibuses plying from S. Antonino to S. Lorenzo (p. 267) pass the Leoni Gate., the main entrance, 2/4 hr.’s walk from the chateau^ the station of Resuttana.^ on the same line, is nearer the chateau (10 min. from the entrance to the park 5 comp, the Map, p. 267). Visitors, however, are recommended to hire a cab (p. 246), as the omnibuses are frequently crowded by the humbler classes, while the grounds of the chateau are extensive. On foot the visit takes about 2 hrs. Travellers interested in agriculture may now visit the Istituto Agrario.^ founded by the minister Carlo Cottone (p. 259), situated halfway between S. Lorenzo and Resuttana. A little farther on, at the N.W. end of Re- suttana, is the Villa Sojia^ with a beautiful garden, the property of Mr. R. Whiiaker., containing a collection of orchids (adm. usually granted on Mon. and Frid. on application to the director). This excursion may be pleasantly extended to the beautiful Bay of Mondello., with a sandy beach admirably adapted for bathing (some houses situated here are called Valdese; rfmts. at the village of Mondello., IV2 M. farther on), passing Palavicini., where a small art-collection in the villa of Prince Scalea may be visited on Mon. from 2 to 6 p.m. From Valdese a picturesque footpath leads by the beach, skirting the Mte. Pellegrino, to (41/2 M.) Acquasanta (p. 267). b. La Cuba. Monreale. S. Martino. Distance to Monreale about 41/2 M. Tramway from the Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3) via the Corso as far as (2^/2 M.) Rocca., where the road begins to ascend (every 10 min. ; fare 20 c.). Carriages are always to be had here (one-horse carr. to Monreale IV2, there and back 2^/2 fr., comp, p. 246). The ascent of the hill thence is a pleasant walk of 3/4 br. — The following tour, occupying 4-5 hrs. exclusive of the halt in Monreale, is also recommended. Take the omnibus from the Porta Felice (PL C, D, 5) via the Corso and the Piazza dell’ Indipendenza to Porrazzi., walk by the Parco road to a point above the Villa delle Grazie (fine views), thence strike through the Oreto valley and ascend to Monreale. Return by tramway from La Rocca. Those who purpose proceeding from Monreale to S. Martino (p. 272), 270 Route 24. LA CUBA. Environs about 3 M. farther on (steep track, suitable for walkers only), will do well to take a supply of provisions with them. Donkey at Monreale (not always to be had), 2V2-3V2 fr. A good carriage-road leads from S. Martino back to Rocca via Boccadifalco (p. 272). Those who are not afraid of the un- comfortable descent to Monreale are advised to make this whole excursion in the reverse direction. ^ Carriage and pair (good but hilly road) from Palermo to S. Martino via Boccadifalco , including a digression to Baida (p. 272), about 15 fr. and fee; carr. much cheaper at Rocca (bargaining advisable). Porta Nuova{P\. B, 1), see p. 250. The perfectly straight pro- longation of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, called the Corso Calata- fimi j leads to Monreale. On the right is situated the extensive poor-house (Albergo de' Poveri). A little farther on, about 1/2 M. from the gate, on the left, is a cavalry-barrack , in the court of which is the old chateau of La Cuba. (Visitors apply to the sentinel and walk in.) On the frieze is a now illegible Arabic inscription, from which it is conjectured that the building was erected by William II. in 1180. Of the once splendid decorations of the interior nothing now remains but a few blackened remains of a stalactitic vaulting and arabesques in a small court. The palace was formerly surrounded by an extensive park with fish-ponds. A pavilion once belonging to it is now on the opposite side of the street in the orange-garden of the Cavaliere Napoli (farther on, No. 421, beyond the street leading to the Cappuccini) , and is called La Cubola (Decamerone, V. 6); admission on ringing (fee). The Strada di Pindemonte , which diverges to the right about 250 paces farther on, leads to the (Y3 M.) Convento de’ Cappuccini, in the subterranean corridors of which are preserved the mummified bodies of wealthy inhabitants of Palermo. This method of inter- ment is now prohibited by government. The melancholy, but not uninteresting, spectacle should be seen by the curious. (The route bence to La Zisa, 1/3 M., is by the Via de’ Cipressi, and then by the first road to the left; see p. 267.) On the left side of the Monreale road we next pass the Giar- dino d' Acclimazione , laid out in 1861 for agricultural purposes. On the same side, I1/2 M- from the Porta Nuova, are the iron gate and Swiss lodge (No. 422) at the entrance to the charming *Villa Tasca, the property of Conte Tasca, one of the first systematic farmers of Sicily, who possesses an experimental station here. The fine park is surrounded by extensive kitchen- gardens , which must first be traversed by visitors (straight on from the road, then to the right; carriages may drive to the entrance proper of the villa; 30-50 c. to the custodian on leaving). The garden, which is almost tropical in the luxuriance of its flora, contains numerous palm- trees. The small temple in the garden commands an admirable '*'View of the Oreto valley and Monreale. The group of houses at the base of the height of Monreale is called l^occa (tram way -terminus ; Tratt. de’ Fieri). The road, con- structed by the celebrated Abp. Testa of Monreale, ascends in of Palermo. MONliEAI.K. 24. Route. 271 windings to the ‘royal mount’ (1150 ft.), on wliicli in 1 1 74 William II. founded a Benedictine abbey, and in 1174-89 erected the famous — ** Cathedral of Monreale, around which a town (^Atbergo Pietro Novellij tolerable) of 16,500 iiihab. has sprung up since the sec- ond archbishopric in the island was transferred hither. The beggars in the town are often very importunate. The church is in the form of a Latin cross, 334 ft. long and 131 ft. wide, with three apses. The outside of the choir is especi- ally beautiful. The entrance is flanked by two square towers. The magnificent portal possesses admirable bronze *Doors dating from 1186, executed by ^Bonannus Civis Pisanus\ and adorned with reliefs from sacred history. The bronze doors of the side-portals are by Barisano (p. 197) and date from about the same period. The edifice was seriously damaged by a fire in 1811, but has been well restored ; the cost of the handsome timber-work was defrayed by King Lewis I. of Bavaria. ^Interior (entrance by the left side-door). The pointed vaulting of the nave is supported by eighteen columns of granite. The transept, approached by five steps, is borne by four pillars. The pointed vaulting is constructed quite in the Arabian style. The ’^Mosaics with which the walls are entirely covered occupy an area of 70,400 sq. ft., and consist of three different classes: scenes from the Old Testament (prophecies of the Messiah), from the life of the Saviour, and from the lives of the Apostles. The nave contains Old Testa- ment subjects down to the Wrestling of Jacob with the Angel, in two rows of twenty tableaux. Each aisle contains nine, and each transept fifteen scenes from the history of Christ. On the arches of the transept are subjects from the life of SS. Peter and Paul. In the tribune is the bust of Christ (with the inscription, I. Xq, 6 navTOxgarcog) •, below it, a Madonna in Trono with two angels and the Apostles at the side *, under these are fourteen saints. In the niches at the sides, Peter and Paul. Above the royal throne is pourtrayed King William in the act of receiving the crown direct from Christ (not from the pope) *, above the archiepiscopal seat he is represented as offering a view of the cathedral to the Virgin. — In the right transept are the tombs of William I. and William II. The monument of the former is a sarcophagus of porphyry, like those in the Cathedral at Palermo; that of the latter was erected in 1575. — The K. aisle contains the Cappella del Crocejisso, of 1690, with fine wood-carvings from the history of the Passion. In the S. aisle is the Cappella di S. Benedetto.^ with reliefs in marble of the 18th century. These chapels are opened by the verger (1 fr., including ascent to the roof). The visitor should not omit to ascend to the roof of the cathedral for the sake of the *View it affords. The entrance to the staircase is in a corner at the beginning of the S. aisle (172 steps to the top). Adjoining the cathedral is the former Benedictine Monastery^ which William supplied with monks from La Cava (entrance by No. 33, the large central door in the piazza which lies in front of the church; adm. 1/2 fr.). Of the original building nothing is now left except the remarkably beautiful *CLoisterSj the pointed arches of which are adorned with mosaics and supported by 216 columns in pairs; the capitals are all different, and the richly ornamented shafts also vary (date 1200). The 9th column from the E., on the N. side, bears a mason’s inscription of 1228. The S. side of the cloisters is overshadowed by the ruins of an ancient monastery-wall, with 272 Route 2'i. S. MARTINO. Environs pointed arches. The garden commands a delightful *Vikw of the valley towards Palermo. The fragrance of the orange-blossom here in spring is almost overpowering. The modern part of the monastery ( now fitted up as schools), which we first reach from the piazza, con- tains a handsome marble staircase adorned with a picture by Pietro Novelli(St. Benedict and the heads of the Benedictine order ; p.245). From Monreale a steep path to the right (Le Scale), with an admirable *View of the Oreto valley, Palermo, and the sea (best towards evening), ascends in 1^4 hr. to the top of the hill which is crowned by II Castellaccio, a deserted fort (10 min. to the right of the highest point of the path), commanding a still more extensive view. We then descend to the suppressed Benedictine monastery of S« Martino, founded by Gregory the Great in the 6th cent., afford- ing another fine *View. Handsome entrance-hall. The monastery is now occupied by an agricultural institution. The vegetation here in spring, including numerous fine orchids, is very luxuriant. The church contains a fresco by Vincenzo Romano and fine choir-stalls of 1557. With the library of the monastery is connected the reminiscence of the extraordinary historical forgeries of the Abbate Giuseppe Vella, who had founded a history of Sicily on a forged Arabic MS., but was detected by Hager of Milan, the Orientalist, in 1794. — Wine is sold at the houses above the monastery. From San Martino we descend in 1 hr. (up 1^2 through a narrow and somewhat monotonous valley to Boccadifalcoy pictur- esquely situated among rocks. A carriage-road also leads hither direct from Palermo , beginning at the Porta Nuova and passing the Capuchin monastery (p. 270) and the village of Altarello di Baida, containing remains of Mimnermum , a palace founded by Roger. A pleasant and picturesque road (^2 leads from Boccadifalco along the heights to La Rocca (p. 270). Martino is about 4 M. from La Rocca. An equally pleasant footpath leads up the hillside to Monreale. — Another fine *Route, commanding a splendid view of the plain and the sea, leads N.W. from Boccadifalco to the former convent of Baida, founded by Manfred Chiaramonte in 1388 for the Cistercians, and afterwards occupied by Franciscan Minorites. Here in the 10th cent, lay Baidhd (‘the white’), a Saracenic village which was connected with Palermo by a row of houses. The terrace affords a fine view. In the vicinity is the not easily accessible stalactite cavern of Quattro Arie. Farther on, by the Basso di Rigano, we reach Noce, whence a tramway -line (p. 246) runs to Palermo, crossing the Piazza Olivuzza. Visit to the Villa Butera and La Zisa, see p. 267. c. Parco. The highroad to Corleone, leaving Palermo at the Piazza dell’ Indipendenza (Strada dei Pisani, PI. B, 1 ; tramway, see p. 246), leads past Porrazzi and Portella to the (2^2 M.) Ponte delle Grazie over the Oreto, and then ascends to Grazia Vecchia. Thence a picturesque road leads to the S.W. to (6 M.) the little town of — of Palermo, S. MARIA D1 GEST>. 24. Route. 273 FarcOy near which William II. enclosed extensive liunting- parks. The abbey-churcli of S. Maria di Altofonte, founded by Frederick II. of Aragon , contains a relief of the Madonna (1328; above an altar on the right). The view of Palermo from a little beyond Parco is one of the most beautiful in Sicily. A road, commanding magnificent views (short-cuts for walkers usually impassable after rain) leads from Parco through the deep fertile valley of the Oreto to (IV 2 hr.) Monreale (p. 271). Piana dei Oreci, 6 M. farther on, was an Albanian colony, found- ed in 1488, and at certain festivals handsome costumes are still seen here. Proceeding to the E. from Grazia Vecchia (p. 272) and skirting the foot of the hill, we return to Palermo via the Villa Orazia^ Falsomiele, and the Corso dei Mille (PI. A, 4, 5). This is the so- called ‘Giro delle Grazie’. A little beyond Falsomiele a road ascends to the right to S. Maria di Qesii (see below), a visit to which may thus be combined with that to Parco by travellers whose time is limited. d. S. Maria di Gesh. Favara. Campo Sant^ Orsola. One-horse carriage to (3 M.) S. Maria di Gesii, 2 V 2 fr. The best route from the centre of Palermo is by the Porta S. Antonino (PI. A, 4) and the Via Oreto ; from the Piazza delP Indipendenza by the Via Filicuzza (PI. A, B, 2). Omnibus several times daily from the Porta S. Antonino (20 c ). The road crosses the Oreto, which has worn a deep bed for itself in the tufa of the Conca d’Oro (p. 247), and gradually ascends to — S. Maria di Gesh (165 ft. above the sea), formerly a Minorite monastery, which, especially by morning-light, commands one of the finest **Views of Palermo, with the Monte Pellegrino in the back- ground, and is a favourite point with artists and photographers. The cemetery of the monastery contains the burial-places of several Palermo families. The church is uninteresting. From the iron gate above the cemetery, to the left (unlocked by a gardener; other- wise we skirt the outside of the cemetery to the left), a somewhat fatiguing path ascends in zigzags past the whitewashed loggia of a conspicuous chapel (with the remains of mural paintings of the 15th cent.; p. 244) to ( 1/4 hr.) a second chapel, which is the finest point of view. In the Monte Grifone, 2/4 M. from S. Maria di Gesu, is the Grotta de' Oiganti^ or di S. Giro (from the neighbouring church), a cave well known to palaeontologists as a fertile source of fossil bones, which it still contains in great quantities. The cave is very dirty. Children at the entrance offer bones and teeth for sale. Near it are three arches of some mediaeval building. The road to the village of Belmonte or Mezzagno ascends gradually, affording a succession of fine views. Halfway it passes the village of Oi- bilrossa , where a monument, erected in 1882, commemorates the fact that Garibaldi’s camp was pitched here in 1860, before the capture of Palermo. With this excursion may be combined the attractive ascent of the Monte Grifone (2550 ft.), whence we may descend to Belmonte or Misilmeri (p. 289). Not far from the above-mentioned Grotta de’ Giganti, to the left of the road and close to the village of Brancaccio, are the remains of the Saracenic-Norman chateau of La FavAra, the magnificence of Baedeker. Italy III. 12th Edition. 18 274 Route 24. BAGHERIA. Environs which has been highly extolled hy Arabian and Jewish travellers of the middle ages, and where Frederick II. held his court. The build- ing, built up on two sides, is now called the Gastello di Mare Dolce ^ from a pool at the base of Mte. Griffone, whence a water- channel has been constructed past the Favara to Brancaccio. From Brancaccio we may return to Palermo over the Ponte dell’ Ammira- glio (see below) and thence by the Corso dei Mille (PI. A, 4, 5). The Via de’ Vespri (PI. A, 3) leads in about Y 4 hr. from the Porta S. Agata (PI. A, 3) to the Campo Sant^ Orsola or Campo di Santo SpiritOj the old cemetery, laid out in 1782. (The new cemetery lies on M. Pellegrino.) In 1173 Walter of the Mill founded a Cis- tercian monastery here, and near it, on 31st March, 1282, began the massacre of the Sicilian Vespers, during which the bell of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti was tolled. The church of S. Spirito, which was thoroughly restored in 1882, has thick pillars resembling those in the English churches of the early middle ages, and pointed arches also diverging entirely from the usual type. Near the church is a stone commemorating the Vespers. e. Bagheria. Soluntum. Railway to Bagheria (from the main railway- station, see p. 245); express in 17 min. (fares 1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 25 c.), ordinary train in 1/2 kr. (fares 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15, or 75 c.); to S. Flavia (slow trains only), fares 1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 30, 85 c. ' The excursion to Solunto and Bagheria may be accomplished on foot in 5 hrs. ; that to Solunto alone from S. Flavia in 2 hrs. The two excursions may be combined by proceeding direct from Villa Valguarnera to (V2 hr.) S. Flavia (seat in a carriage usually to be obtained). Travellers may then proceed to Cefalii, Catania, or Girgenti. — Carriage and pair to Bagheria and Soluntum in 6-8 hrs., 15-20 fr., carr. with one horse 10 fr., a charming drive. Luncheon should he carried with the party. The railway crosses the Oreto, beyond which, to the left below us, we observe the lofty arch of the now abandoned Fonte delV Ammiraglio j constructed in 1113 by the admiral Georgios An- tiochenos. Adjoining it are the ruins (concealed, with the exception of the dome, by other buildings) of the most ancient Norman church in Sicily, San Giovanni dei Leprosi^ founded in 1071 by Roger. Here, in B.C. 251, the consul Metellus defeated the Carthaginians, and captured 120 elephants. In the neighbouring bay the French admiral Duquesne nearly annihilated the united Dutch and Spanish fleets in 1673. In the fertile coast-district the Saracens once cultiv- ated the sugar-cane. On the right rises Monte Orifone (p. 273). Between (5 M.) Ficarazzelli and (6 M.) Ficarazzi continuous *View to the left of the sea and Monte Pellegrino. 8 M. Bagheria, or Bagaria [Alhergo Verdone, near the middle of the main street, with good trattoria), a country -town with 11,600 inhab., contains many villas of Sicilian nobles, now deserted. We turn to the right from the station, and then to the left, by the long main street, towards a portico (formerly of three arches), of Palermo. SOLUNTUM. 24. Routt. 275 through which we pass. A little farther on we pass through a gate- way, with weatherbeaten and unattractive sculptures of last century. Straight on is the lower entrance to the Villa Palayonfa, which, like the Villa Butera^ contains a few fantastic works of art. If this entrance be closed we proceed to the right round the building to the upper entrance. Opposite this latter is the road leading to the left to the Villa Valguarnera^ which merits a visit for the sake of the magnifllcent *View from the terrace and from the adjacent Monta- gnuola, a hill reached in about 10 min. from the garden (fee 30- 50 c.). The station of S. Flavia lies about IV 4 M. to the E. of the entrance to the villa. 10 M. Santa Flavia. Phoenician tombs, probably of the Cartha- ginian period, were discovered here in 1864, to the right of the railway. — (Journey hence to Girgenti, see R. 27.) Leaving the station, w^e turn to the right (the first house on the left is an OsteriUj where good wine may be obtained, and where luncheon may be taken). In 1 min. more we cross the line to the right and in 4 min. reach a red house on the left, inscribed ‘Antichita di Solunto’, the custodian of which acts as guide. We traverse a garden, and then follow a steep and sunny road leading in ^2 to the ruins of Solus, Soloeis, or Soluntum, situated on the easternmost hill of Monte Catalfano. The town was originally a Phoenician settlement, but the ruins date from Roman times. The name of the present town, which lies on the coast, 2^4 M. farther to the S., is Sdlanto. Nearly the whole of the ancient paved causeway, ascending the hill in zig- zags, has been brought to light. We turn to the left at a carob-tree (Ital. carrubo), and then see to the right the ancient main street. The town was very regularly laid out, the streets running from E. to W. and N. to S., and crossing each other at right angles. A narrow passage was left between the backs of the rows of houses to allow the water to escape from the hill , which is so steep as to have necessitated the construction of flights of steps in some of the streets. The internal arrangement of several of the houses is still recognisable. Part of the colonnade of a large house has been re-erected by Prof. Cavallari , and is now named the ‘Gymnasium’. Though the ruins are scanty, admirable *Views are enjoyed from the top of the hill , embracing the bay of Palermo and the Conca d’Oro to the W., and to the E., the coast to a point beyond Cefalii and the Madonia Mts. (p. 308) , snow-clad in winter. The steep promontory to the N. is Cape Zafferana; on the shore below lie S. Elia and Porticella. Towards the E., where the Tonnara di Sdlanto (tunny-fishery, p. 290) is situated, lay the harbour of the town. Good walkers may descend the steep hill to Bagheria either by a direct and easy footpath from S. Flavia., or round the promontory and through the village of Aspra, which lies on the sea. Farther up the brook Bagheria (the ancient Eleutheros), 1 M. to the E. of Portella di Mare., once lay a large Phoenician town, afterwards a Saracenic stronghold, called Kasr-Sdd, now the village of Cannita. The Grceco-Phoenician sarcophagi of the museum of Palermo were found here. 18 » 276 Route 25. ZUOCO. From Palermo From Palermo an excursion may be made by steamboat in 4 hrs. (every Wed., fare 71/2 fr.) to the island of TJstica, 37V2 M. distant, and 10 M. in circumference. Its principal mountains are the Falconiera on the E. and the Quadriga di Mezzo (720 ft.) to the W. The island was colonised by the Phoenicians in ancient times , and was subsequently taken by the Romans. During the middle ages it was but thinly peopled. As lately as 1762 the whole population was murdered or carried off by pirates. The number of inhab. is now 1600, many of whom are prison- ers sentenced to banishment here ('Domicilio coatto'). The caverns are interesting to geologists. Fossil conchylia are also found in the island. 25. From Palermo to Trapani. 121 M. Railway in 7-8 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 5, 15 fr. 46, 9 fr. 95 c.). To Alcamo - Calatifimi (the station for Segesta) , 52 M. , in 874 hrs. (9 fr. 50, 6 fr. 65, 3 fr. 40 c.) ^ to Castelvetrano (station for Selinus), 75 M., in 472-674 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 70, 9 fr. 60, 4 fr. 85 c.). By starting with the early train (about 5 a.m.) from Palermo, travellers may easily visit the temple of Segesta and then proceed in the afternoon to Castelvetrano or return to Palermo. (The somewhat inconvenient visit to the beautifully-situated theatre of Segesta involves spending the night at Calatafimi.) If provisions are not taken from Palermo, arrangements should be made to dine at Calatafimi, whence a diligence in connection with the train starts about 172 hr. before the departure of the latter. The Steamers of the Navigazione Oenerale Italiana (Palermo -Porto Empedocle-Catania-Messina line) leave Palermo on Fridays about 9 a.m., and arrive at Trapani in the afternoon ^ they start again during the night, reaching Marsala early next morning, Sciacca in the forenoon, Porto Em- pedocle (for Girgenti) and Palma in the afternoon, and Licata in the evening 5 the journey is continued hence on Sunday morning; Terranova; Scoglitti; Pozzallo about noon; arrival at Syracuse on Sun. evening; Ca- tania; Messina. — In the reverse direction: departure from Messina., Mon. at midnight; from Syracuse, Mon. night; from Pozzallo.^ Tues. morning; from Scoglitti and from Terranova., Tues. forenoon; from Licata and from Palma, Tues. afternoon; from Porto Empedocle, Tues. evening; from Sciacca and from Mazzara, Wed. morning; from Marsala, Wed. forenoon; from Trapani, Wed. afternoon; arrival in Palermo, Wed. evening. — As, how- ever, the S. coast of Sicily is difficult to navigate, the punctuality of the steamers cannot be depended on. — The steamboat for Tunis, mentioned at p. 381, leaving Palermo on Tues. at 10 p.m., also touches at Trapani (Wed. 4 a m.), and at Marsala (8 a.m.). Another steamer leaves Trapani on Mon. morning for Favignana, Marsala, Pantelleria, Lampedusa, and Porto Empedocle; returning from Porto Empedocle about noon on Wednesday. The train starts from the principal station (PI. A, 4), but also calls at the (3V2 ^0 station in tlie Via Lolli (comp. p. 245). It then traverses the Conca d’Oro. To the left are the Monti Billiemi, to the right the Monte Pellegrino. Beyond (7^2 M-) Lorenzo the train enters the depression between the Monti Billiemi and the Monte Oallo (on the right). 10 M. Tommaso Natale; 11 M. Sferraca^ vallo (tunnel); I 21/2 M. Isola delle Femmine, The railway now skirts the coast for some distance. To the left lie (14 M.) Capaci and (17 M.) Carini. The latter, picturesquely situated near the sea, was formerly the free Sicanian town of Hyccara, whence in 415 the Athenians are said to have carried off the celebrated cour- tezan Lais, then a girl of twelve years. The train next runs at the base of Monte Orso (2885 ft.), which rises on the left. — 24 M. Cinisi Terrasini; both the villages lie at some distance from the to Trapani. CALATAFIMI. 25. Itmde. 277 station. Beyond (31 M.) Ziicco the train crosses the generally dry bed of the Nocella and reaches — 33 M. Partinico (620 ft.). The town, with upwards of 20,000 inhab. , a trade in wine and oil, and several manufactories, lies considerably to the left of the station. Beyond Partinico the train passes through a tunnel and crosses the Gallinella^ a little above its mouth. — 38 M. Trappeto. — 39^2 Balestrate, on a spacious bay, bounded on the E. by the Capo di Rama and on the W. by the Capo S. Vito. The train runs near the sea , and crosses the Flume S. Bartolommeo , which is formed by the union of the Fiume Freddo and the Fiume Caldo. 451/2 M. Castellammare (offlcually , Castellammare del Qolfoi). The town (13,000 inhab.), which was once the seaport of Segesta and still carries on a considerable trade, lies 3 M. from the railway, near the mouth of the Fiume S. Bartolommeo. Beyond Castellammare the train quits the coast, and ascends the valley of the Fiume Freddo towards the S. Three tunnels. 52 M. Alcdmo - Calataflmi. The station lies between Alcamo and Calataflmi, about 5 M. distant from each. Vehicles from each town are generally in waiting at the station (‘posto’ in the diligence 11/2 fr.; in other vehicles 11/2"^ Ir*) ; fo meet the trains the carriages leave the towns about II /2 hr. before the arrival of the latter. Alcamo (835 ft. ; Locanda della Fortuna, tolerable ; Albergo di Segesta, Corso Sei Aprile 29, very unpretending; *Ca/e opposite the post-offlce), a town of Arabian origin , with 34,300 inhabitants. In 1233, after an insurrection, Frederick II. substituted a Christian for the Saracenic population, but the town still has a somewhat Oriental appearance. There are , however , a few mediaeval and Renaissance remains , such as the portal of the church of 8. Tom- maso ; the campanile of the Cathedral, which contains a Cruciflxion by Ant. Gagini ; Renaissance sculptures in the church of S. Fran- cesco ; and a Madonna byRozzolone in the church deiMinori. Above the town rises the Mte.Bonifato, or della Madonna delV Autu {Alto; 2705 ft.), whence a magniflcent prospect of the Rat/ of Castellammare is obtained. The house pointed out here as that of Ciullo d^ Alcamo , the earliest Sicilian poet (13th cent.), is really of much later origin. Galatalimi. — Inns. Albergo Centrale, Corso Garibaldi, mediocre Albergo Garibaldi. — Trattoria: Stella d' Italia, unpretending. Carriages, Horses, etc., for Segesta, at Salvatore Denari s; one-horse carriage 9 fr., carriage with 4 seats 15 fr., horse, mule, or donkey 4-5 fr. These may be ordered by telegraph to meet the train, unless the traveller prefers one of the routes indicated on p. 276, in which case the horse or mule may be secured on arrival, occasionally at a lower rate. The last very fatiguing part of the route is impracticable for carriages. Trav- ellers going on to Palermo may follow the highroad from Segesta to the station of (about 3 hrs.) Castellammare (see above). Calataflmi, a town with 10,000 inhabitants, lies to the W. of the railway in the valley of the Fiume Gaggera. If we ascend the principal street, a good footpath diverging to the right beyond the 278 Route 25. SEGESTA. From Palermo town will lead us to the top of the hill occupied hy the Castle (1115 ft.). Fine view hence of the temple of Segesta and the extensive mountainous landscape in the environs. — The battle- field of Calatafimi, where on May 15th, 1860, Garibaldi won his first victory over the Bourbon troups, lies about 2 M. to the S.W., and is marked by a monument erected in 1892. The whole excursion from Calatafimi to Segesta takes 4-5 hrs. (comp. theMap ; carriages, donkeys, etc., seep. 277). The distance is about 5 M., a ride of 1^4 hr. Our route follows the Castellammare road, where we have soon a view of the high-lying temple on the left, descending a beautiful, well-watered valley. About 21/2 M. below Calatafimi, where the cultivation of trees ends, the route descends to the left to the (2 min.) fiumara, which after rain is not fordable by foot-passengers , and beyond the stream ascends the right slope of Monte Barbaro (disagreeable after rain) direct to- wards the large farm on the top, beside which is the custodian’s dwelling. Visitors are first conducted by the custodian (1 fr.) to the (10 min.) temple, thence in about 25 min. to the Monte Barbaro, where the theatre is inspected; return by a narrow path to the farm , where luncheon may be taken (good drinking-water and tolerable wine). Segesta, or Egesta as the Greeks usually called it, one of the most ancient towns in the island, was of Elymian, not of Greek origin, and though completely Hellenised after the lapse of centuries, it was almost incessantly engaged in war with its Greek neighbours. The Greeks entertained the unfounded opinion that the Egestans were descended from the Trojans, who settled here near the warm springs of the Scamander ( Fiume Gdggera)^ and had combined with the Elymi so as to form a distinct people. During the Roman period the tradition accord- ingly arose that the town was founded by .^neas. The ancient town ex- perienced the most disastrous vicissitudes. Oppressed by the inhabitants of Selinus, the Egestans invited the Athenians to their aid, and after the defeat of the latter at Syracuse, they turned to the Carthaginians, on whose arrival followed the war of B.C. 409. Egesta found, however, that its connection with Carthage did not conduce to its own greatness, and accordingly allied itself with Agathocles ; but the tyrant on his return from an expedition against Carthage in B.C. 307 massacred 10,000 of the ill-fated inhabitants on the banks of the Scamander in order to appro- priate their treasures, whilst others were sold as slaves. The town was then named Dicaeopolis. During the First Punic War the inhabitants allied themselves with the Romans and changed the name of their town from the ill-omened Egesta (egestas) to Segesta. The Romans, out of vener- ation for the ancient Trojan traditions , accorded them some assistance. Verres despoiled the town of the bronze statue of Demeter, which had once been carried off by the Carthaginians and restored by Scipio Africanus. The ruins still in existence are described below. The **Temple, situated on a hill to the W. of the town (995 ft.), is a peripteros-hexastylos of thirty-six columns, but was never completed. The columns are therefore unfluted, the steps of the basement unfinished, showing the portions left projecting to faci- litate the transport of the stones, and the cella not begun. In other r C AL AT A FI W I e ROVIINE; <4i SECESTA Staz*r della F oi rovm to Trapani. CASTELVRTRANO. 25. Route. 279 respects it is one of the best-preserved Doric temples in Sicily, and its simple but majestic outlines in this desolate spot, sur- rounded by lofty mountains, are profoundly impressive. Length, including the steps, 200 ft.; width 85 ft. ; columns with capitals 29 ft. in height and 6 ft. in thickness ; intercolumniation 8 ft. As the architraves were beginning to give way, they are secured where necessary with iron rods. At the back the Doric entablature, with guttae, is in good preservation. The town itself lay on the Monte Barharo. The interesting ^Theatre commands a beautiful view. Before us, beyond the stage, rises Monte Inice (3490 ft.), more to the left is Monte Sparagio (3705 ft.), to the right is the so-called Bosco di Calatafimi, and lower down in the valley of the Scamander (Gaggera) are the remains of the Thermae Segestanae, supplied by four different warm springs which the road to Castellammare passes ; in the distance is the sea. The diameter of the theatre, which is hewn in the rock, is 205 ft., that of the stage 90 ft., and of the orchestra 53 ft. The seats are divided into seven cunei^ and separated by a praecinctio. The twentieth row from the ‘praecinctio’ is furnished with backs. In front of the proscenium the remains of two figures of satyrs from the Roman period are visible. A few remains of houses with Roman and Greek mosaic pavements have also been excavated. Continuation of Railway. 58^2 M. OihelUna. 64 M. 8. Ninfa-- Salemi^ the station for the towns of 8. Ninfa and 8alemi, both situated at some distance from the railway. Salemi , the ancient Halicyae^ on a hill to the right, contains 15,000 inhab. and is com- manded by a ruined castle. Four tunnels are passed through. The scenery improves. 75 m. Caste! vetrano. — Carriages from the station to the town ; ‘un posto’ 50 c. — Hotels. Alb. Bixio, with trattoria, tolerable, R., L., & A. 2 V 2 , D inch wine 5 fr. ; Alb. Palermo, clean, R. & A. IV 2 fr., L. 30 c., dej. 2 V 2 , D. 4 fr. — Caff^ di Selimmfe. in the Piazza. Carriages. A visit to the ancient quarries near Campobello (p. 283) may be combined with that to Selinus by making a very early start (carriages should be ordered and inspected the night before). Carriage and pair to Selinunte and back, or to Campobello and back, 12-15 fr. for 2-3 pers., 20 fr. for 4 persons. — Horse or Mule to Selinunte and back 7 fr., to the quarries and back 8 fr. — Provisions should be taken. Castelvetrano Sicil. Casteddu Vetrano (620 ft.), is a provincial town , with 21,500 inhab. who are hereditary tenants of the fertile district around the town, the property of the Dukes of Monteleone (of the family of Aragona-Pignatelli). The campanile of the church adjoining the Palazzo Monteleone affords the best panorama of the surrounding plain. The church of 8. Giovanni contains a statue of John the Baptist by Ant. Oagini (1522; apply to the sacristan). The grammar-school contains the smaM Museo Municipale of antiqui- ties found at Selinus. The chief treasures are an archaic statuette of *Apollo in bronze, found in 1882, and some terracottas. — About 280 Route 25, SELINUS. From Palermo 2 M. to the W. is the Norman church of S. Trinith della Delia^ of the 12th cent., lately restored, and now private property. From Castelvetrano to Selinunte, 71/2 M., a drive of 11/4 hr. (walking not recommended). By starting at 8 a.m. we may regain Castelvetrano again at 2 or 3 p.m. — We follow the Sciacca road, which gradually descends to the sea through a fertile hut mono- tonous district, and then diverge to the right to the ruined temples of the Neapolis on the E. hill (p. 282), near which is the straggling Casa Florio (good wine). After wet weather, the valley between this hill and the Acropolis on the W. hill, which should first he visited, is very marshy and may then he crossed hy the bridge or by the hank of sand on the side towards the sea. The coachman or a hoy will act as guide. **Selinus, among whose ruins are the grandest ancient temples in Europe, was founded in 628 by colonists from Megara Hyhlaea under Pammilus, and was the westernmost settlement of the Hel- lenes in Sicily. On an eminence hy the sea, 100 ft. in height, to the E. of the river Selinus (Modione)^ Pammilus erected the Acropolis, behind which, more inland, he placed the town itself. On the op- posite hill, separated from the citadel hy a marshy valley ( Gorgo di Cotone)^ the credit of draining which is ascribed to the philosopher Empedocles, a sacred precinct was founded in the 6th century. The Selinuntians were still engaged in the construction of the temples of the latter when Hannibal Gisgon destroyed the town in 409. The conflicts between the Selinuntians and Egestans, whose territories were contiguous, afforded the Athenians, and afterwards the Carthagin- ians, a pretext for intervening in the affairs of Sicily. Hannibal attacked the town with 100,000 men. Help from Syracuse came too late ^ 16,000 in- habitants were put to the sword, and 5000 carried off to Africa as cap- tives-, 2600 only effected their escape to Acragas. From that blow Seli- nus never recovered. Hermocrates, the exiled Syracusan patriot, founded a colony here in 407, but under the Carthaginian supremacy it never attained to prosperity, and in the First Punic War it was finally destroyed (26i3B.C.). Since that period it has remained deserted, as the district is unhealthy in summer. In the early Christian period cells were built between the temples and occupied by solitary settlers. The Mohammedans called the place Rahl-el-Asnam^ or ‘Village of the Idols’, and here they resisted the attacks of King Koger. The ruin of the temples (called Pilieri dei Oiganti by the natives) was probably caused by an earth-quake, but at what period cannot now be determined. The sculptures found here are now in the museum at Palermo (p. 262). The conductor of the excavations (‘Soprastante degli Scavi’) is Sig. Tommasini. Several custodians (Guardia delle Antichita) are stationed on the Acropolis (see below), where, however, they are not always to be found (gratuities are refused by the custodians). There is a Casa dei Viaggiatori at the Acropolis, but in summer the night should not be spent there on account of the malaria. If a stay of some days is contemplated application should be made to Sig. Tommasini. An introduction from the director of the Palermo Museum is desirable. The W. Hill or Acropolis, on which lay the earliest town, was entirely surrounded with walls. These walls were destroyed in B.C. 409, hut the higher part of them was re-erected two years to Trapani, SELTNUS. 25. Jioute. 281 later, partly with materials from other buildings. This part of the town was traversed by two main streets, running N. and S. and E. and W., from which the other streets diverged at right angles. The most important remains in tlie E. half of the Acropolis are those of temples, all facing the E. We shall designate the southernmost by the letter A, Between it and the custodian’s house remains of another buildinghavebeen discovered.Beyond the line of the main street running from E. to W., is a small temple (B)^ which Hittorff restored as a prostyle - tetra- style with Ionic columns and Doric entablature. The next temple (C)^to which the oldest metopes belonged, was probably sa- cred to Hercules, though Benndorf assigns it to Apol- lo ; some of the col- umns are mono- liths. Temple D is not so^ ancient as Temple C ; in front of it is a somewhat elev- ated platform. The foundation-walls of numerous other buildings are traceable within the old town, and graves containing skeletons and houses , of a later date , also occur. Crosses chiselled on the overthrown architraves indicate that these last were dwellings of the Christian period. — To the N. of this Acropolis the remains of a Later Acropolis^ built after B. C. 409, have been exhumed, with two round bastions at the corners of its massive walls, into which capitals and triglyphs from an earlier edifice have been built. The arch of the doorway is not built but hewn out of the stone. The building discovered to the N., erroneously called a Theatre^ was another fortified tower. To the E. is a well of ex- cellent water, enclosed by slabs of clay. Three metopes (p. 262) were discovered near this point in 1891. Farther on lay the town 282 Route 25. SELINUS. From Palermo proper, the remains of which are very scanty. — Still farther to the N., on the ridge between the farms of Galera and Bagliazzo^ was the earliest Necropolis. At a later period the citizens had their Necropolis to the W.; the Propylaea may still be traced beside the farm of Manicalunga^ beyond the river Selinus (Modione). The wild parsley which gave name to the city and was represented on its coins, still grows in abundance on the banks of the river. Adjacent to the farm of Messana^ which lies just beyond the river and may be recognised by its shady garden, Cavallari discovered a temple open to the E. and W., and near it an inscription bearing the name of Hecate. On the E. Hill lie the huge *Ruins of three temples, but no other remains of any kind. The southernmost, Temple E, con- tained five metopes : of these two were in the posticum, one representing Athena and the Giant, the other damaged beyond recognition ; three were in the pronaos, and represented Hercules and the Amazon , Zeus and Hera , Artemis and Actacon. An altar and inscription dedicating the temple to Hera were found here in 1865. The middle temple (F)^ some of the columns in which were left unfinished, yielded the two lower halves of metopes dis- covered by Messrs. Harris and Angell in 1822. The last temple ( G)j one of the largest Grecian temples known, was left unfinished, as is proved by the fact that nearly all the columns are unfiuted. An inscription found in it seems to assign the temple to Apollo. According to Benndorf, Temples C and D were built soon after B.C. 628, Temple F and part of G in the 6 th cent. B.C., and Temples A and E and the rest of G in the 5th cent. B.C. The following measurements are given approximately in English feet. Lengtli of temple including steps A. 139 B. 28V2 c. 230 D. 192 E. 228 F. 216 G. 371 Width of temple including steps 60 15 88 89 91 90 177 Height of columns with capitals 20 IIV 4 ? 28 241/2 33 30 531/2 Diameter of columns at the base i'A IV2? 6 5 7 51/4 111/4 Diameter of columns at the top 31/2 1? 5 33/4 6 4 61/4 8 Height of entablature (trabeazione) Intercolumnia 9 6 5 31/4? 1V2’ 14 82/3 71/2 131/4 9 8V2 141/2 8 7 13 9 82/j 22 103/4 91/4 Length of cella 82 113/4 131 124 135 133 228 Width of cella 25 IIV 2 29V2 261/2 371/2 23 59 to Trapani. MAZZAKA. 25. Route. 283 Beyond Castelvetrano the train enters a wide moor, whicli ex- tends nearly as far as Mazzara. Fine sea- views. — 77 M. Campo- bello, near the ancient quarries, which yielded the material for the temples of Selinus and are now called Rocca di Cusa or Cave di CampobelLo. A visit to the ’"Q.uarries of Selinus may be made by carriage from Castelvetrano in about 3 hrs., or may be combined with a visit to Seli- nus (comp. p. 279). The railway is cheaper, but only three trains a day run in each direction. — The quarries are peculiarly interesting, for the work in them was suddenly interrupted, doubtless on the capture of the town by the Carthaginians inB.C. 409, and has never since been resumed. The various stages of the process of quarrying are still traceable. A circular incision was first made in the rock, and then hewn out till a space of a yard in width was left free between the solid rock and the monolithic drum of the column. The block was then severed entirely from the rock, and its bed left empty. A number of such drums are lying ready for transport at the bottom of the quarry; others have already been carried for some distance along the road to Selinus. Among the druntis, which measure 8-10 ft. in length and about 8 ft. in diameter, are some which correspond exactly with those used for the columns of temple G (see p. 282), and which were undoubtedly designed for the completion of that building. 84 M. 8. Nicola. Monte S. Giuliano is visible to the N. We then cross the river Delia. 891/2 M. Mazzara (Alb, Centrale di Selinunte, close to the old castle, witlf trattoria; ^Cafe near the Piazza del Duomo; Brit, vice- consul, 8ig. V. F. Verderame), officially styled Mazzara del Vallo, a town with 13,500 inhab., the residence of a bishop, is surrounded by a quadrangular wall about 36 ft. in height, which is defended in the characteristic Italian style by square towers rising from it at intervals. The ancient Mazara was originally a colony of the Seli- nuntians, hut, like the mother-city, was destroyed by Hannibal Gisgon in B.C. 409. In 827, the Arabs landed at Rds el-Beldt (Punta di Granitola), to the S. of Mazzara, with the intention of conquering the island. The ruined Castle at the S.E. angle of the town-wall was erected, or at least strengthened, by Count Roger in 1073, who also founded the Cathedral, which contains three an- cient sarcophagi (Battle of the Amazons ; Wild Boar Hunt ; Rape of Persephone, freely restored), and a Transfiguration over the high- altar by Gagini. The mansion of the Conte Burgio, at the W. corner of the Piazza del Duomo, and the Archiep is copal Palace opposite the cathedral contain large Arabic majolica vases. Pleasant walk on the Marina. On the river Mazaras farther up, into the estuary of which the tide penetrates for a considerable distance, are situated grottoes in which the ‘beati Pauli’ once assembled. Beyond Mazzara we traverse a tract of moor and enter a richly cultivated district, planted chiefly with the vine. 96 M. Bambina. 1021/2 M. Marsala. — Inns, Albergo Centrale, in the Cassero, ^4 M. from the station, with Trattoria, R., L., & A. 2-3 fr.; Albergo del Leone, recently improved. Carriages from the station to the town, 1/2 fr. each person. — Em- BARCATiON or landing 60 c., with luggage P/z fr. per person. 284 Route 25. MARSALA. From Palermo British Vice-Consul: Chas. F. Qray.^ Esq. — American Consular Agent : Qeo. Rayson., Esq. — Lloyd’s Agents : Pace dt Figlioli. Marsala is an important commercial town with 37,000 inhab., well known for the Marsala wine which is manufactured here from Sicilian wines and spirit. The principal firms are Ingham^ Florio^ and Woodhouse, who kindly admit visitors to see their extensive and interesting establishments, situated on the shore to the S. of the town. The town, a modern place, contains nothing else note- worthy , except the Cathedral. The Municipio (last door on the right) contains an antique animal-group from Motye, a tiger devour- ing a bull; above is a Phoenician inscription. — The costumes of the peasants at church on Sunday are interesting. A celebrated procession takes place here on Maundy Thursday in the afternoon. Marsala occupies the site of the ancient Lilybaeum, a fragment of the town-wall of which is preserved near the Porta di Trapani. The ravine in front of the latter and the fields beyond contain ca- verns and graves, and the Convento dei Niccolini (no admission) con- tains Phoenician tombs with Byzantine pictures. Other relics are the harbour to the N., where the salt-works are now situated, and a few fragments of houses and walls on the coast of Capo Boeo (or Lilibeo"), the westernmost point of Sicily and the nearest to Africa. A bust of Garibaldi has been erected outside the Porta Nuova, where he landed on 11th May , 1860 , and began his famous pro- gress through the island , which ended in a few weeks with the overthrow of the Bourbon supremacy in Sicily (comp. pp. 237, 278). In the field to the left on the promontory stands the church of S. Giovanni Battista, with a subterranean spring in the Grotta della Sibilla (inaccessible). The Gumaean Sibyl is said to have proclaimed her oracles through the medium of the water, which is still an object of superstitious veneration. Lilybaeum was the principal fortress of the Carthaginians in Sicily. Pyrrhus besieged it unsuccessfully in 279, after which he quitted the island. In 249-41 the Romans in vain endeavoured to reduce it during one of the most remarkable sieges on record. Under the Roman supremacy Lily- baeum was a very handsome city (‘splendidissima civitas’), and the seat of government for half of Sicily. From this point the Roman expeditions against Africa, and also those of John of Austria, were undertaken. The present name of the town is of Saracenic origin, Marsa-Ali, harbour of Ali. Charles V. caused stones to be sunk at the entrance to the harbour, with a view to deprive the barbarians of one of their favourite haunts. On the small island of S. Pantaleo, situated in the shallow ^ Sta- gnone'' near the coast, about 6 M. to the N. of Marsala (boat thither from Marsala 4 fr.), was anciently situated the Phoenician emporium of Motye. The foundations of old walls round the island, and remains of the gates, especially on the side next the land, with which the island was connected by an embankment, are still traceable. The latter still exists under water, and is used by the natives as a track for their waggons. In B.C. 397 the town was besieged and destroyed by Dionysius with 80,000 men and 700 vessels, and the Carthaginian admiral Himilco totally routed. It was with a view to repair this loss that the Carthaginians founded LilybsBum. From Marsala to Trapani the train skirts the sea-coast. To the left is the Stagnone (see above), with the islands of S. Pantaleo, to Trapani. TRAPANI. 25. Routt. 285 S. Maria., Isola Grande or Isola Lunga, and others. In the dis- tance are the mountainous Favignana., Levanzo, and other islets belonging to the ALgadian Group (^see p. 287). — 106 M. Spag- nuola ; 110 M. Ragattisi. — Peyond (^113 M.) Marausa the train crosses the Birgi., the ancient Acithis. Here, in the plain of Falconaria^ Frederick II. of Sicily routed the united French and Neapolitan armies, and took Philip of Anjou prisoner, on 1st Dec., 1299. This was the greatest of the battles which took place during the wars after the Sicilian Vespers. — II 8 Y 2 M. Paceco ; the town, founded in 1609 and famed for its cucumbers and melons, lies to the right of the railway. The train passes extensive salt- works, in which the salt is stored in huge, tent-shaped heaps, and skirts the base of Monte S. Giuliano (p. 286). 121 M. Trapani. — Inns. Albergo Trinacria, Piazza del Teatro, 3/4 M. from the station, with good Trattoria, R., L., & A. 2^/2 fr. ; Albergo Centrale. — Caffe Serafini., at the harbour, beside the Dogana. Carriages from the station to the town, 1/2 fr. each person. — Omnibus from the harbour (Piazza Marina) to the Madonna delV Annunziata (p. 286), every 10 min., 10 e. Mules and Donkeys for the Monte S. Giuliano are to be found near the gate, in the first street on the right (2-2V2 fr., boy V 2 fr.). — Carriage with three horses to the Mte. S. Giuliano 25-30 fr. A Diligence also runs daily to Mte. S. Giuliano. British Vice-Consul, ^ig. Gius. Marino; U. S. Consular Agent, Big. Marrone. — Lloyd’s Agents, G. Serraino & Co. Trapani , the ancient Drepana (from drepanon , a sickle), so called from the form of the peninsula, a prosperous town with 38,000 inhab., lies at the N.W. extremity of Sicily, and is the seat of a prefect and a bishop. The harbour is good, and the trade of the place not inconsiderable. Coral, shell-cameos, and alabaster works are specialities of Trapani. In ancient times it was the seaport of Eryx (Mte. S. Giuliano), but was converted into a fortress by Hamilcar Barca about the year 260, and peopled with the inhabitants of Eryx. In 249 the Carthaginian admiral Adherbal defeated the Roman fleet under the consul Publius Claudius off the harbour, and in 242 Drepana was besieged by the consul Lutatius Catulus , whose headquarters were in the island of Columbaria (Colum- bara). On this occasion the Carthaginian fleet, laden with stores, on its route from Maritimo to Favignana, was destroyed in March, 241, in sight of the town, a victory which terminated the First Punic War. During the Roman period the town was unimportant. In the middle ages it pros- pered as a royal residence. In the ^Eneid, Anchises is represented as having died here, and iEneas as having instituted games to his father’s mem- ory. The island described as the goal in the boat-race is now called Asinello. Another tradition is that John of Procida formed the conspiracy against Charles of Anjou on the Scoglio del Mai Consiglio. It is, however, an historical fact that Peter of Aragon, touching here on 30th Aug., 1282, on his return from Africa with his fleet, was welcomed as a deliverer. Trapani is one of the cleanest towns in Italy, but beyond a few handsome buildings in the baroque style, contains little of interest. The Lyceum y to the right in the Corso, possesses a natural history collection and a picture-gallery ( 1/2 fr.). The latter includes : Car- reca^ Jacob’s dream, St. Albert ; Ribera, Heads of Apostles ; and in- teresting 14th cent, representations from the ceiling of S. Agostino. 286 Route 25. MONTE S. 6IULIAN0. — The Cattedrale S. Lorenzo^ farther on in the Corso, possesses a Crucifixion hy Van Dyck (4th chapel on the right), freely re- touched, and fine carved choir-stalls. — The church otS. Agostino, to the S., once a Templars’ church, has curious architectonic de- corations. — The neighbouring church of S. Maria di Oesh con- tains a Madonna by Luca della Robbia in a marble frame of 1521 (to the right of the altar). — In the Oratorio di S. Michele is a representation of the Passion, executed in coloured wooden groups by Trapanian artists of the 17th century. — The portal of the ad- jacent church of the Madonna della Luce dates from 1509. The Via della Giudecca^ or former Jewish quarter, contains an old house with a tower (Lo Spedadello), illustrating the curious mingling of architectural styles which characterised the 15th century. — The sta- tues of saints behind the high-altar in the church of S. Niccolb di Bari belong to the school of Gagini (1560). — A Statue of Victor Emmanuel II. by Dupre was erected in 1882 in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, through which leads the road to Monte S. Giuliano. Pleasant walks may be taken in the shad.y promenades along the harbour, where a Statue of Garibaldi., by L. Croce, was erected in 1890, and to the Torre de' Legni , 1/2 from the Albergo Tri- nacria, following the Corso to its end, where we pass through the gate next the sea and then incline a little to the right. The attractive ^Excursion to Monte S. Giuliano occupies fully half-a-day. The traveller had better ride or walk ( 21 / 2-6 hrs.). The route passes the church of the Madonna dell’ Annun- ziATA, founded in 1332, about I 1 / 2 M. from the town (omnibus, see p. 285). The principal church, which contains a famous old statue of the Madonna (said to have come from Cyprus), has been modern- ised, but the fine architecture of the Cappella del Cristo Risorto, founded in 1476 by the seamen’s guild, on the N. side, has been preserved , even on the exterior (sacristan in the convent behind, the church). At this church the road to S. Giuliano diverges to the left from the highroad ; and pedestrians may ascend from it to the left by a steep footpath. The precipitous slopes are beautifully wooded at places. Midway is the small but fertile Piano dei Cappuccini, with the rock Petrale to the right, and La Cintaria to the left. ’^Monte San Giuliano, the Eryx of antiquity, is an isolated mountain , 2465 ft. in height. On its summit is situated a small town [Caffe, Trattoria delV Erice , both in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele), which is rapidly falling to decay. The number of in- habitants is speedily decreasing owing to the frequent migrations which take place to the plain at the foot of the mountain. On account of the cold mists the men of this district generally wear the ‘cappa’ or hood, met with throughout Sicily, the women, who are renowned for their beauty, wear long black veils. At the en- trance of the town stands the Cathedral, restored in 1865, only the MONTE S. OIUUANO. 25. Uoute. 287 W. bays of which are old. We ascend through the town to the towers fitted up as a residence by Ilaron Agostino Pepoli, com- inanding a splendid view and containing a collection of objects of art , and then to the ivy-clad Castle (partly used as a prison). The rugged rock on whicli it stands commands a noble prospect of the land and sea. To the W. at our feet lies Trapani, and beyond it are the ^gadian Islands : Maritime (ancient Hiera ; with the Monte Falcone, 2246 ft.), the most distant; to the left, nearer us, Favignana (iEgusa, 1070 ft.); on the right Levanzo (Phorbantia); all of which belonged to the Genoese family of the Pallavicini from the middle of the 17th cent, till 1874, when they were purchased by Sign. Florio of Palermo. Towards the S. stretches the fertile plain of the coast, with Paceco (p. 285); in the background is Marsala. Towards the E. tower the mountains of S. Vito (from W. to E., Sparagio, Laccie, Sauci, San Barnaba, and Roccacorvo); and the conical peninsula of Cofano extends into the sea, which bounds three sides of the mountain. In winter Cape Bon in Africa is occasionally, and the island of Pantelleria (p. 382) frequently visible. In spring the whole district at our feet is clothed with the most luxuriant verdure. On the summit once stood the shrine of Venus Erycina , a deity wor- shipped by all the people of the Mediterranean. The modern town is probably co-extensive with the sacred enclosure. The same spot had pre- viously been the site of a temple of Astarte, erected by Phoenician settlers, on whose altar no blood was permitted to flow. Melkarth was also wor- shipped here ; the Greeks therefore believed the temple to have been founded by Hercules, and Dorieus, brother of Leonidas of Sparta, undertook, as a Heraclides , an expedition to conquer this district , but was defeated and slain by the Phoenicians and Egestans. During the First Punic War Hamilcar Barca surprised the town, which lay on the slope of the moun- tain, but has left no trace of its existence, and besieged the temple, which was bravely defended by the Celtic mercenaries on behalf of Rome, but at the same time plundered by them. The Carthaginians were in their turn surrounded from below by the Romans, who afterwards restored the temple, furnished it with a guard of 200 men, and bestowed on it the revenues of seventeen towns of Sicily (for Eryx, it was said, had also been founded by ^Eneas). According to some the temple was founded by Daeda- lus, and Eryx by a son of Venus and Butes. The present name is derived from the tradition, that, when the town was besieged by King Roger, he beheld St. Julian putting the Saracens to flight. The only remains of the temple of Venus are the foundations within the castle , the so - called Ponte or Arco del Diavolo, and the '‘Fountain of Venus' in the castle-garden, an ancient re- servoir, 4 yds. in width, and 8 yds. in length. Of the walls of the sacred city of Venus considerable portions still exist beneath the present wall, between the Porta Trapani and Porta Spada, con- sisting of huge blocks in courses of equal height. The wall was defended by eleven towers at unequal intervals. The entrance to the town was obviously between the Monte di Quartiere and the Porta Spada, where in the interior of the town the walls of the approach can be traced towards the right. These walls are now known to have been erected by the Phoenicians. 288 26. From Castelvetrano (Selinus) to Girgenti. 62 M. New road ; diligence in about 19 hrs. Railway projected. Car- riage from Castelvetrano to Sciacca (including the small detour to Selinus) about 30 fr.^ thence to Girgenti 35 fr. This drive is to be recommended as giving a good idea of the out-of-the-way part of Sicily. The route was quite safe in 1895; no brigands, and ordinary Italian understood. — The Syracuse steamboat (p. 276) touches at Sciacca weekly (Saturday fore- noon ; landing or embarcation 1 fr.), a pleasant means of conveyance to Girgenti if it should happen to suit the traveller’s convenience. If Castelvetrano be quitted early, it is possible to ride in one day by the ruins of Selinus to Sciacca (28 M. ; or by the di- rect route from Castelvetrano about 24 M.). From the Acropolis we again cross to the Neapolis, traverse wheat-fields and vineyards, and reach the Fiume Belice (the ancient Hypsas), which we cross at a ford. The route then lies partly across the sand of the coast, partly through poorly cultivated land, to Sciacca. The town of Menfrici (SiqU. Menfi; 400 ft.), with 10,000 inhab., lies a little to the left. The stones for the metopes of Selinus appear to have been quarried near this town. SciACcsi (*Nuova Italia^ R. 2Y2j ^V2 Alb. La Pace), with 22,200 inhab., situated on an abrupt eminence (260 ft.) on the coast, occupies the site of the Thermae Selinuntinae of antiquity. The modern name is of Saracen origin (^as SokUaK). Tommaso Fazello (d. 1570), the father of Sicilian historiography, was born here. For the sake, it is said, of acquiring an illustrious fellow-towns- man, he describes Agathocles, the tyrant of Syracuse, who was horn at Thermae Himerenses (Termini), as a native of Sciacca. In the middle ages the town was a place of some importance , being a royal and not merely a baronial borough. Powerful nobles, however, also resided here, the ruins of whose castles are still to he seen in the town ; the most extensive of these are on the E. side of the town-wall. Here rise the ruins of the castles of the Luna and Perollo families, whose feuds, the so-called Casi di Sciacca, disturbed the tranquillity of the town for a whole century (1410-1529), a fact which serves to convey an idea of the con- dition of mediaeval Sicily. The Cathedral was founded by Julietta, the daughter of Roger I. The finest view is afforded by the tower of S. Michele. The Casa Starepinto and Casa Triolo are interesting specimens of mediaeval architecture. The spacious modern palace, with a beautiful garden, at the E. gate, is the property of the Marchese San Giacomo. Monte S. Calogero (1280 ft.), an isolated cone, 3 M. to the E. of Sciacca, deserves a visit on account of its curious vapour-baths. In the valley between Sciacca and the mountain are the sources of the hot sulphur (133° Fahr.) and salt (88°) springs, which attract numerous patients in summer. The foundation of the vapour -baths (Ze Stufe; temperature varying from 92° to 104°) was attributed to Daedalus, and the mountain called in ancient times Mons Kronios. The grottoes, partially artificial, with unimportant inscriptions, such as the Grotta Taphano (della Diana) and delle Pulzelle are interesting. In the middle ages the discovery of the efficacy of the baths was attributed to S. Calogero (mod. COliLKONE. ac. Houle. 289 Greek kaldgevos ^ monk), and most of the baths in Sicily arc accordingly named after that saint, as in ancient times they were all believed to have been established by Dsedalus. The island of Pantelleria is distinctly visible from the Monte S. Calogero. On 18th July, 1831, a volcanic island (Isola Ferdinandea)^ 4-5 M. in circumference, with a crater, rose from the sea between Sciacca and Pantellaria, but on 18th Jan., 1832, entirely dis- appeared. In 1864 symptoms of a submarine eruption were again observed. There is also a shoal at this point. Not far from it a valuable coral reef was discovered in 1875, which attracts many hundreds of coral-fishers. From Palermo to Sciacca via Corleone, about 68 M.; railway to Corleone (42Vu M., in 41/4 hrs. ; fares 8 fr. 55, 6 fr., 3 fr. 55 c.). — Beyond (3V2 M.) CorsaH and (572 M.) Villabate the train ascends the valley of the Scanzano to the S. — 10 M. Misilmeri (Arabic ‘Menzil al Emir’); 15 M. Bolognetta- Mavineo (called Ogliastro till 1883); 17 V 2 M. Mulinazzo; 19^/2 M. Baucina. — 2 IV 2 M. Villafrati. A little to the W. are the baths of Cefala-Diana (called ‘Gefala’ by the Arabs), at the base of a lofty hill, crowned by the Gastello di Diana. — 221^2 M. Mezzojuso ; 25^2 M. Godrano; 2972 M. Ficuzza., with a royal hunting-lodge. To the S. rises the mountain-ridge of Bu- sambra, with the woods of Gappelliere. — 31 M. Bifarera; SS'l-zM. Scalilli- Tagliavia. On the hill is the ruined Saracenic fort of Calata Busamhra. — 39 M. Donna Beatrice. 42 M. Corleone {Alhergo delle Palme.^ fine view), anciently KorliUn., with 15,700 inhab., is a town of Saracenic origin, where Frederick II. estab- lished a Lombard colony in 1237. Its inhabitants were therefore the most strenuous opponents of the house of Anjou. From Corleone the road leads via Campofiorito skirting the cliflfs of Monte Gardellieri and Monte Buraco , to Bisacquino (10,000 inhab.) and (13 M.) Chiusa-Sclafani (7500 inhab.) , where it divides. The road to the E. leads to Burgio. The principal church here contains a picture by Ribera, and the Franciscan church a statue of St. Vitus by Ant. Gagini (1520). We follow the branch to the W., via Oiuliana ., with an ancient castle and a Norman church , to Samhacca., a well-built town with 9000 inhab., which under the name of Rahal Zahuth belonged to the monastery of Monreale in 1185. Farther on, to the right, are situated Contessa., an Albanian settlement, and the ruins of Entella on the bank of the Belice Sinistro.^ 5 M. from Contessa, and accessible from the S.E. only. Entella was an Elymian town, of which mention is made in the Trojan-Sicilian myths. In 403 it was taken by surprise by the Campanian mercenary troops of Dionysius I. From Sambucca the road proceeds W. to Sella- Misilbesi., where it unites with the road from Partanna (13,000 inhab.) and 8. Margherita (8000 inhab.), and then leads S. E. to Sciacca (p. 288). From Sciacca to Girgenti, about 40 M. (a fatiguing ride of 12 hrs.). We cross the Fiume Caltahelotta ; to the left on a precipi- tous height, on the right bank of the river, 10 M. inland, stands Caltahelotta. About 1 M. to the S. of it, on a still higher hill (2430 ft.), now occupied by the church of S. Maria a Monte Ver- gine., lay Triocala^ celebrated for the siege it sustained in the Second Servile War, B.C. 102. The view thence is one of the finest in Sicily. On the left bank lies the small town of Ribera (Cafe-Restaurant Garibaldi), where the well-known statesman Crispi was born in 1819. Farther on we cross (201/2^^0 river Platani (ancient Halycus') and reach , having accomplished about half the journey, — Montallegro (miserable locanda), a place consisting of two vil- lages , the older on the hill , now deserted owing to want of water, and the newer lower down. Near the village is a small lake, nearly ^2 M. in diameter, impregnated with carbonate of soda. Baedeker. Italy III. 12th Edition. 19 290 Route 27. TERMINI. From Palermo On the Capo Bianco (100 ft.), between the Platani and Monte Allegro, once lay Heracleia Minoa. At first Macara^ a Sicanian town, stood here ; it then became a Cretan and Phoenician settlement (Rus-MelkartJi)^ the Greek Minoa. It was next colonised by Lacedaemonians under Euryleon, successor of Dorieus who was slain at Eryx, and received the name of Heracleia Minoa. At a later period it was generally in possession of the Carthaginians. Coins bearing the old Phoenician inscription ‘Rus Melkarth’ are still extant. When it was finally destroyed is unknown , and very few fragments of it now exist. A good road leads from Montallegro via Siculianaj a poor village where horses rest for 1 hr., to (15 M.) Porto Empedocle. Porto Empedocle, and thence by railway to Girgenti, see p. 292 ; the distance by road is scarcely 4 M. 27. From Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle. Railway from Palermo to Girgenti, 84 M., in 42 / 4 - 5^4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 45, 10 fr. 80 c., 7 fr. ; express to Roccapalumba and thence ordinary train, 16 fr. 25, 11 fr. 35 c.). From Girgenti to Porto Empedocle, 6 M., in V 2 hr. (fares 1 fr. 15, 80, 75 c.). The railway traverses the fertile plain of the coast (stations Ficarazzelli and Ficarazzi) to Bagheria (p. 274), and runs thence between the sea and the hills, passing through several short tun- nels. 10 M. S. Flavia, station for Soluntum (p. 275). 11 M. Cas- teldaccia. — 13 M. Altavilla; the village, on the hill to the right, possesses one of the oldest existing Norman churches, called La Chiesazza, founded by Robert Guiscard in 1077. A number of ‘ton- nare’ (for catching the tunny-fish) are observed in the sea. A red flag hoisted near them in the month of May indicates that a shoal has entered, or is about to enter the nets, and is a signal for a gen- eral onslaught of the fishermen. — 17 M. 8. Niccola; 101/2 M. Trahia, a fine old castle on the coast. Then a bridge over the Fiume 8. Leonardo, and a tunnel. 23 M. Termini (Albergo d' Italia, tolerable ; Bail. Bestaurant), one of the busiest provincial towns of Sicily, with 23,200 inhab., is situated on a promontory. The houses of the nobility lie on the hill, those of the merchants on the E. side. The maccaroni (pasta) of Termini is considered the best in Sicily. Termini ( Thermae Himerenses ) , probably an ancient Phoenician sea- port, was founded as a town by the Carthaginians in 407, after the de- struction of Himera. It soon , however , became Hellenised , and in the First Punic War was taken by the Romans. Under the latter it was a pro- sperous place, and even in the middle ages it was a town of some im- portance. Robert of Naples, who attacked Sicily in 1338, besieged the strong castle of Termini in vain. This ancient stronghold was destroyed in 1860. The substructures of a Roman basilica have been excavated in the Villa della Cittd, in the Piano di S. Giovanni, above the town (fine *View), where there are also traces of an amphitheatre. The Aqua Cornelia, a Roman aqueduct to the S.E. of the town, was de- stroyed in 1438. Its remains from Brucato downwards merit a visit on account of the remarkable fertility of the surrounding district. A collection of prehistoric , Greek , and Roman antiquities , and a to Porto Kwpedocle. ROCCAPALIIIMUA. 27. Route. 201 number of paintings by early Sicilian masters arc preserved at tlie old OspedaLe dei Bmfratelli (fine Gotliic windows in tlie liall), un- der the charge of Prof. S. Ciofalo. Termini was the birthplace of Niccolo Palmieri, a distinguished Sicilian political economist and historian, who is interred in the Chiesa del Monte. The bath-estab- lishment, situated on the E. side of the hill, was founded by Fer- dinand I., and is well fitted up. The springs (110° Fahr.) contain Epsom salts. The baths are extolled by Pindar. — The finest view near Termini is afforded by the rocks above the castle. On a rocky slope above the Fiume S. Leonardo, 4 M. from Termini, lies Caccamo^ containing 8000 inhab., and commanding a fine view. — The ascent of the precipitous Monte San Calogero (4085 ft.) is recommended, if the authorities report no danger from brigands (8-9 hrs. from Termini). From Termini to Messina, via CefalU., see R. 3i. From Termini to Leonforte. This road, about 62V2 M. in length, was once the route usually pursued by the Arabs on their predatory in- cursions from Palermo into the interior. It ascends by the Fiume Torto to Cerda (see below), crosses the mountain, and descends to the valley of the Fiume Grande and the small town of Scla/ani., v/hich possesses hot springs of some repute (bare and uninviting bath-rooms) and a church containing an antique sarcophagus with Bacchic reliefs. The next little town, Calta- vuturo Us M. from Termini), is of Saracenic origin ( Kalat-Ahi-Thaur)., and was taken by Roger I., who bestowed it on his daughter Matilda. It now contains 6000 inhabitants. [To the E. of Caltavuturo, on a rock 3000 ft. in height, lies Polizzi, surnamed La Generosa, a town of considerable im- portance in the middle ages, near which rise the Himera Meridionalis (Fiume Salso) and the Himera Septentrionalis (Fiume Grande), which the ancients believed to possess one common source.] The road next leads to Petralia di Sotto and di Sopra, two country-towns in a fertile district with imposing mountainous environs , occupying the site of the ancient Petra or Petraea. To the S., on the top of the hill, lie Buonpietro and Alimena. The latter was conquered by the Saracens in 843, and is perhaps the ancient Hemichara or Imachara. From Petralia the road traverses a lofty mountain to (6 M.) Gangi, a town with 14,000 inhab., the ancient Sikelian Enguium, originally a Cretan, i.e, a Phoenician colony, where in Cicero’s time a celebrated temple of the ‘Cretan Mothers’ (Matres; not Mater Magna as Cicero has it), despoiled by Verres , was situated. The road leads hence through a fertile tract to (9 M.) Sperlinga (2590 ft.) , which alone showed partiality to the French in 1282, whence the saying, ‘Quod Siculis placuit sola Sperlinga negavit’ ; thence to (3 M.) Nicosia, with 15,500 inhabitants, who speak a Lombard dialect, a town of thoroughly mediaeval appearance, regarded as more behind the age than any other in Sicily. The road then passes Rocca di Sarno, where the brave Norman Serlo perished through treachery, and leads to Leonforte (p. 301). The train continues to skirt the coast, with the Monte San Calogero rising on the right, crosses the Fiume Torto, and then turns inland towards the S., following the right bank of the stream. 28 M. Cerda; the village lies on the hill to the left, 4 M. from the station; on the right rises the M. Calogero. — 32 M. Sciara; the village lies on the hill to the right. The train crosses the Fiume Torto, passes through a tunnel, and beyond (35^/2 M.) Causo re-crosses the stream. — 38 M. Montemaggiore. The river is again crossed. 44m. Roccapalumba (Rail. Restaurant), junction for the line to Palermo and Catania (p. 298); change carriages for Girgenti. — 19 * 292 Route 27. CAMMARATA. The village lies at some distance to the right. On a steep hill (2400 ft.) to the left, 4 M. from the railway, is situated the town of Alia, with 5000 inhabitants. The train for Girgenti ascends, and crosses the watershed between the Tyrrhenian and African seas. Two tunnels. — 48 M. Lercara (Rail. Restaurant), near which are the northernmost sulphur-mines in the island. The train leaves the town on the hill to the right, passes through a tunnel, and enters the valley of the Platani, To the right opens the beautiful basin of (53 M.) Castronuovo. On the Cas- saro^ a hill above Castronuovo, are some mural remains of a very ancient town and also quarries of yellow marble. The ruins of the mediaeval Castronuovo lie at the foot of theCassaro. The train then crosses to the right bank of the Platani. 551/2 at. Cammarata , a town with 6000 inhabitants. The Pizzo di Cammarata or Monte Gemini (5200 ft.) is one of the highest mountains in the island, and commands a magnificent view. The ascent may be easily made in 21/2 hrs. (footpath all the way to a chalet just below the summit). — An interesting mountain- path (guide necessary) leads past Monte Chilombo to the town of Castel Termini (Loc. Caietani), with numerous sulphur-mines. 62 M. Acquaviva- Platani. To the E. is the little town of Mussumelij near which is a castle of the 15th cent., formerly in the possession of the Chiaramonti and now belonging to Signor Lanza di Trabia. — 65 M. Sutera ; the town (4500 inhab.), with a ruined castle, is situated on a hill to the left (Pmo di Sutera., 2685 ft.). In 860 the Arabs called the town Sotir. It is supposed by some to have been the ancient Camicus, where Dsedalus built a castle for Cocalus. Beyond (661/2 M.) Campofranco the train passes through a narrow and rocky defile between the Monte di Roveto on the right and the Rocca Grande on the left. The valley opens near Passo- fonduto. Farther on , the train skirts the left bank of the Platani for a short distance, and then ascends a side-valley towards the S. 74 M. Comitinij with valuable sulphur-mines. On a hill, II/2 M. to the W., lies Aragona, with 12,500 inhab. and a modern chateau. 771/2 M. Aragona-Caldare (Cafe at the station), the junction of the railway to Catania (R. 29). The mud-volcano of Maccalubi, 4 M. to the W., interesting to scientific travellers, may be visited from this point (guide, at the station, 1-2 fr.). The hill, formed of limestone and clay, is about 135 ft. in height (860 ft. above the sea-level), and is covered with cones, I'A-S ft. high, the upper cavities of which are filled with mud , and from clefts in which carbur- etted hydrogen gas issues with more or less noise. The ground, where- ever it has been touched by the mud, becomes utterly barren and looks as though it had been scorched. To the right opens a splendid view over the hills as far as the distant sea. — 84 M. Girgenti, see p. 293. — The train descends, skirting the hill on which the town lies, passes through a short tunnel, crosses the valley of the Fiume di Girgenti by means of two viaducts, and reaches — r>- Porto Eir^edocle rPalprolo W'Tiii’i QmcffrrJliai BuoTuvDovmv \S- Gregorio ^ CJSelloi ^.Qwse}. imk lono C.CayaUcur/ % (rio a iilicoi ^CSala. ICGiam2)b7^Tuv CONTOINI D1 GlRGENTl Sca-la Ttel 1:50.000. GIUGENTI. 28. Route. 293 90 M. Porto Empedocle , formerly called Molo di Oiryenti^ a busy little seaport with 7500 inhab., where the sulphur and corn- dealers of Girgeiiti have extensive magazines. 28. Girgenti. Hotels. Hotel des Temples, in the former Villa Oenuardi^ of the first class, situated about V2 M. from the town, on the way to the temples, closed in summer, R. 3-5, L. 1, A. 1, B. IV2, d^j. 872, D. 5, pens, for a stay of some time 10-15, omn. from station IV2 fr. *, Albergo Belvedere, prettily situated, R., L., & A. 2^2, B. 1, pens. 8, omn. 1 fr. ^ Alb. Gellia, Via Atenea, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. IV4, D. 21/2 fr., the rooms are good, other- wise mediocre; Alb. Centrale, unpretending. Restaurants and Cafes. Regina Margherita^ in the Alb. Gellia, see above; Caffk Stella; Caff^ Garibaldi. Post and Telegraph Office, Via Atenea. Railway to Palermo, see R. 27; to Catania, see R. 29. — Steamboats, see p. 276. — Diligence to Palma daily at 5 a.m. Carriages. From the station to the (2V4 M.) town 2 fr. ; ‘un posto', or a seat for a single traveller, 50 c. (after sunset 1 fr.), luggage 25 c. Car- riages wait in the Via Atenea to take passengers from the town to the station. — To the ruins and back, carriages according to tariff ; for 3 hrs. 5 fr., for each additional hr. IV2 fr. The traveller should stipulate that a visit to the Rock of Athene is included ; supply of provisions necessary. Disposal of Time. A day suffices for the sights ; by means of an early start and the use of a carriage, they may be overtaken in half a day. The walk to the temples and back takes 2^2 hrs., besides the time spent in the inspection. Salvatore Messina '., who speaks French, may be recom- mended as a guide to the ruins (5 fr. per day), but unnecessary. British Vice-Consul, Mr. Edw. A. Oates (also Lloyd’s agent). — American Consular Agent, Sig. F. Ciotta. The beggars and children harass visitors with their importunity against which patience is the only defence. Hawkers both in the town and at the temples offer spurious antiquities for sale. Girgenti (1082 ft.), the Acragas of the Greeks and the Agrigen^ turn of the Romans, in the middle ages the most richly endowed bishopric in Sicily, has 21,300 inhabitants. It is the seat of a pre- fect, and the military headquarters of the district. It is now pro- vided with water-works, partly constructed from an ancient aque- duct. The four gates are the Forta del Molo., del Ponte, Biberia, and Panitteri. The trade of the town is considerable, nearly one-sixth of the Sicilian sulphur being exported from Porto Empedocle, the seaport of Girgenti (see above). Acragas, ‘the most beautiful city of mortals’ according to Pindar, was founded by colonists from Gela in 582. The Doric settlers, some of them natives of Rhodes, introduced the worship of Athene of Hindus and also that of Zeus Atabyrius, i.e. the Moloch of Mt. Tabor. After having erected a temple to Zeus Polieus, ‘the founder of cities’, Phalaris usurped the supreme power with the assistance of his workmen, and ruled from 564 to 549, when he was deposed by the Eumenides Telemachus , and an oligarchy of sixty years now began. The cruelty of Phalaris has become proverbial; he is said, for instance, to have sacrificed human victims to Zeus Atabyrius in red-hot bulls of metal. In 488 Theron, a descendant of Telemachus, subverted the oligarchy, and extended the dominions of Acragas as far as the N. coast, where he conquered Himera. Allied with his son-in-law Gelon, the tyrant of Syracuse, he defeated the Carthaginians at Himera in 480 (p. 308), after which he devoted his attention to the im- 294 Route 28. GIRGENTI. History, provement of Acragas. The town stood on a hill descending precipitously on the N. side, and sloping gently towards the coast on the S., bounded by the two rivers Acragas (S. Biagio) and Hypsas (Drago). It consisted of two parts: the Acropolis to the N., the W. part of which, where the temple of Zeus Polieus stood, contains the modern town (1080 ft.), while the E. part was called the Rock of Athene (1105 ft.); and the town proper to the S., by the walls of which the ruined temples now lie. (The W. part of the Acropolis has been sometimes erroneously identified with the Sicanian town of Camicus.) The prisoners of war captured in 480 (of whom some of the citizens possessed as many as 500 each) were compelled to excavate the subterranean canals ; the temples were also erected at that period, and a large fish-pond constructed. Thrasydaeus^ the son of Theron (d. B.C. 473), was very inferior to his father, and was soon expelled by the citizens, who established a republican form of government, afterwards perfected by Em- pedocles (d. about 424). The wealth and luxury of the city, which formed the chief emporium of the trade with Carthage, now reached their climax. Citizens like Antisthenes and Gellias (or Tellias) exercised a princely mu- nificence. The population has been stated at 200,000, and even at 8(X),(X)0, but the latter figure, if not wholly erroneous, must include the slaves and the inhabitants of the municipal territory. The city remained neutral dur- ing the war between Athens and Syracuse. The Carthaginians soon after overran the island, and their generals Himilco and Hannibal captured the rich city of Acragas, which was betrayed by its own mercenaries and deserted by its citizens. In 406 Himilco caused the city to be plundered and the works of art to be sent to Carthage. The temples were burned down (traces of the action of fire being still believed to be observable on the temple of Juno). The city was afterwards partly rebuilt, but until the time of Timoleon remained of little importance. That hero sent a colony thither, and the town again prospered, at one time as an in- dependent state, at another under the Carthaginian supremacy. In the First Punic War the citizens, as the allies of . Carthage, were in a position to furnish the Carthaginians with a contingent of 25,000 men, and in 262 the Romans besieged the city. The battle fought without the walls was not decisive, but was so favourable to the Romans, that the Cartha- ginians were compelled to withdraw their troops to Heraclea. The city was then captured by the Romans , and shortly after retaken by the Carthaginian general Carthalo. In the Second Punic War the Carthagin- ians maintained themselves longest in this part of Sicily , and Acragas came into the possession of the Romans only through the treachery of the Numidians. Thenceforward the town (Agrigentum) was a place of little importance. The Saracens took possession of it in 828, and it became a rival of Palermo, being chiefly colonised by the Berbers. In 1086 the town was taken , and a well-endowed bishopric founded, by Roger I., and St. Gerlando became the first bishop. The road to Poito Empedocle, quitting tlie town hy the E. gate, the Porta del Ponte^ and leading to the ruins via the Passeggiata (p. 298), skirts the foot of the Rock of Athene (^Rupe Atenea, p. 298), and passes the Hotel des Temples (situated on the right). A route for foot-passengers diverges to the right, below the barracks, as soon as the town is quitted, and leads direct to S. Nicola (p. 295). Straight in front, at the S.E. angle of the ancient city, is the temple of Juno Lacinia (p. 295). The turning to the left at the first fork of the road leads to a small shed, in which is the Fonte dei Greci^ the mouth of an antique conduit, 4 V 2 M. in length, which even yet supplies the town with drinking-water. About 1/2 M. farther on in the same direction (to the left again at the fork) we reach the remains of a small Greek temple in antis ^ the so-called Temple of Ceres and Proserpine,, converted into the church of 8. Biagio in the Norman period. The right branch of the last-mentioned fork brings us to a hollow way, forming in antiquity the approach from the river. Temple of Concord. GIRGENTI. 28. Houle. 295 The branch to the right at the first fork leads in a wide curve to the little Gotliic church of 8. Nicola^ built into a more an- cient edifice, of which a fragment is visible behind the high-altar. The portal has been restored. Adjacent is the so-called Oratory of Phalaris, originally a Homan sanctuary and afterwards converted into a Norman chapel. Fine panorama in front of it. In the adjacent Pa- nitteri garden are fragments of statues and Corinthian entablatures. We now proceed to the S. wall of the ancient city, where the temples lay, ascending the narrow road that turns to the left after 10 min., and leads past the Temple of Concord (see below). At the S.E. angle , magnificently situated over a steep preci- pice, 390 ft. above the sea-level, is the so-called **Temple of Juno Lacinia. This name, however, rests merely on a confusion betwixt this temple and the temple of Juno at Croton , for which Zeuxis painted a picture of Helen. The temple is a peripteros- hexastylos with thirty-four columns of the best period of the Doric style (5th cent. B.C.). The columns have twenty flutes, and their height is five times their diameter. Earthquakes have here completed the work of destruction : twenty-five whole pillars only are left stand- ing, while nine half-ones have been re-erected. All have been dis- integrated on their S.E. sides by exposure to the Scirocco. In front of the pronaos of the temple are two narrow terraces. To the W. an ancient cistern. — On the S. side part of the old town- wall , consisting of huge masses of rock , is still preserved. In the rock beneath the temple are ancient tombs. The so-called '^'^Temple of Concord, farther to the W., is one of the best - preserved ancient temples in existence , as it was converted in the middle ages into a church of 8. Gregorio delle Rapi (‘of the turnips’). The arched openings in the wall of the cella belong to that period. The temple is a peripteros-hexastylos, later than that of Juno Lacinia, but also erected before the decline of the Doric style. Its thirty-four columns with the architrave and pediments are still standing. The right corner of the front pediment, and the incisions for beams are almost all of later origin. Staircases in the corners of the wall of the cella ascend to the summit. On the left of the road, between this and the next temple, on this side of the white wall, is the entrance to an early Christian catacomb , called Grotta de" Frangapani, the centre of which is formed by a circular room with several rows of ‘arcosolia’ (vaulted tombs in the walls). A second story, lying deeper in the rock, has been made partly accessible. The oldest part of the catacomb appears to date from the 2nd century. It is doubtful whether the numerous tombs cut in the rocks adjoining this catacomb are of Christian origin. Not far from the Temple of Concord are the insignificant ruins of the so-called Temple of Hercules, a peripteros-hexastylos of thirty- eight columns (surrounded with a wall: the custodian opens the gate). 296 Route 28. OIRGENTT. Temple of Zeus. The back part of the cella consists of three adjacent rooms. The temple was restored during the Roman period. A statue of iEscu- lapius, found here, is now in the museum at Palermo, The temple is sa id to have contained the famous painting of Alcmene by Zeuxis. From it Verres attempted to steal the statue of Hercules by night, but his workmen were repulsed by the pious citizens. Adjoining the temple is the Porta Aurea, the town-gate towards the harbour, by which the Romans entered the city in 210. Roads to Porto Empedocle and the Molo lead through this gate. To the left, outside the Porta Aurea, is the so-called *Tomh of Theron, which, like the temple of Castor and Pollux and the Ora- torium of Phalaris, is of the later Greek, or perhaps of the Roman, period. In a house between the Tomb of Theron and the con- fluence of the Acragas and Hypsas, where the army of the Romans was posted during the siege, are preserved fragments of an edifice which appears to have been a ‘templum in antis’, perhaps the Temple of AEsculapius, containing the celebrated statue of Apollo by Myron, which is generally believed to have once stood here. To the N. of the Porta Aurea lie the ruins of the *Temple of Zeus, which was never completed (closed, small fee to custodian). This vast structure, which has been extolled by Polybius and de- scribed by Diodorus, was erected in the 5th cent. B.C. It was a pseudo-peripteros with thirty-seven or thirty-eight huge engaged columns, seven at each end (perhaps only six at the W. end), and fourteen on each side , each 20 ft. in circumference , with flutings broad enough to admit of a man standing in each. The flat backs of the columns formed a series of pilasters. The entrance has not been definitely determined, but traces of steps are believed to have been found at the W. end. Within the walls of the cella, although uncertain where, stood the colossal Telamones or Atlantes, one of which has been reconstructed, and measures 25 ft. in height. They are supposed to have been placed either in front of the pilasters, or above them as bearers of the entablature. In the tympanum of the E. side (or according to some authorities, on the metopse) was represented the contest of the gods with the giants, on the W. side the conquest of Troy. Entire portions of the side- walls have fallen outwardly, and now lie with the same relative disposition of their parts as when erect. The notches and grooves were either for fitting the stones into each other, or for raising them to their places. Down to 1401 a considerable part of the temple was still in existence, but it has been gradually removed, and in recent times was laid under contribution to aid in the con- struction of the Molo of Girgenti. Near this temple, to the N. W., M. Cavallari has caused four Doric columns of a temple to be re-erected , which is commonly called that of Castor and Pollux., though without sufficient ground. Portions of two distinct temples, however, have been used in the Cathedral. GTRGENTT. 2S. Route. 297 restoration. Fragments of the entablature bear distinct traces of stucco and colouring. It was a peripteros-hexastylos of 34 columns. Near it are the substructures of other ancient buildings. Fine view towards the N. from the brink of the so-called piscina (see below). Approximate Dimensions of the temples in English feet: — Geres Juno Lac. Concord Hercul. Zeus Cast. & Pol. JEscul. Length inch steps 90 134 138 241 363 Ill - Breadth . . . 40 64 64V2 90 182 51 40 Length of cella - 91 94 156 302 79 25 Breadth of cella - 30 30 45 68 181/2 - Height of columns with capitals . - 21 221/2 33 55 21 - Diameter of col- umns . . . - 4 41/2 7 143/4 33/4 - Intercolumnia . - 51/2 51/2 73/4 - - - Height of entabla- ture .... - - 91/2 - - - - On the other side of the hollow, which is said to have once been occupied by the fish-pond (piscina) mentioned by Diodorus, is a garden containing remains of the so-called Temple of Vulcan., whence a fine view of the temples opposite is obtained. Of the spring of oil mentioned by Pliny no trace has been found. The Hippodrome probably lay to the N. of the temple of Vulcan. Remains of the celebrated Cloacae of Phaeax still exist in the Piscina. We now inspect the Modern Town. The loftily-situated Cathe- dral (1080 ft.), on the N. side, begun in the 14th cent., has been so completely modernised, that only a single column on the left side bears any visible trace of the original style (polygonal pillar, with foliage capital). The best part is the unfinished campanile, which commands an admirable view. The interior contains (last altar on the right) a Madonna by Guido Beni ; and in the Aula Capitolare^ at the end of the left aisle, is a celebrated Marble Sarcophagus with reliefs of the myth of Hippolytus (small fee to the sacristan). On the riglit side, Hippolytus hunting. On one end, Phaedra pining for love, with her attendants. On the left side the nurse djvulges to Hippolytus the love of his step-mother. On the fourth side, death of Hippolytus. An acoustic peculiarity in the cathedral is noteworthy. A person stand- ing on the steps of the high-altar can distinguish every word spoken on the threshold of the principal W. entrance, though the distance is about 100 ft. In the Treasury are two early mediaeval enamelled caskets. The Cathedral Archives (entered from the cathedral) contain numerous documents of the Norman period of Sicilian history. From the cathedral we proceed to the neighbouring church of N. Maria dei Greci (closed, custodian 1/2 which contains 298 Route 28 , GIRGENTI. fragments of the Temple of Jupiter Polieus or of Athene, It was a peripteros-hexastylos, but its dimensions are unknown. Its remains are the most ancient in Girgenti. The wall of a low passage beside the church has six column-bases built into it. The Museum^ under the supervision of Sig. Celi, contains an archaic marble statue of *Apollo, a sarcophagus with triglyph-reliefs (found near the sea in 1886), vases, coins, and fragments of marbles. — The Biblioteca Lucchesiana^ near the cathedral and in the same street, was founded in the 18th cent, by Bishop Lucchesi, after- wards Archbishop of Palermo, and is now the property of the town. The most interesting mediieval structure is the portal of San Giorgio, — Near the Church del Purgatorio is the entrance to the old ‘Catacombs’, or subterranean quarries below the present town. The Passeggiata , below the Rupe Atenea , where a band plays thrice a week in the evening in summer, and at noon in winter, com- mands a charming view. In clear weather the island of Pantelleria, nearly 90 M. distant to the W.S.W., is visible shortly before sunset. From the terrace outside the E. town-gate we ascend past the suppressed Capuchin monastery of S. Vito (at the cross-road to the right) to the Rock of Athene (1150 ft.), or Rupe Atenea. It has been supposed that a temple of Athene onoe stood at the top, which has evidently been levelled by human agency, but the most recent investigations show this to be very doubtful. According to a local tradition, the depression between the town and the rock was arti- ficially formed by Empedocles to admit of the passage of the N. wind (the ‘Tramontana’) and thus dispel the malaria. The *View in every direction is magnificent, particularly by evening-light. The ancient town -wall crossed the Rock of Athene, but no traces of this part of it are preserved. A visit to the Sulphur Mines near Girgenti is also interesting. Visitors with letters of introduction are received with great civility. 29. From Palermo and Girgenti to Catania. From Palermo to Catania, 151 M. , railway in T-lOVs hrs. (fares 27 fr. 50, 19 fr. 25, 12 fr. 40 c.^ express, 30 fr. 25, 21 fr. 15 c.). — From Girgenti to Catania , 119 M., railway in 8-9 hrs. (fares 21 fr. 60, 15 fr. 15, 9 fr. 85 c. •, express, beyond S. Caterina-Xirbi, 22 fr. 95 c., 16 fr.). — These two lines unite at S. Caterina-Xirbi. — A supply of refreshments should be taken, as railway-restaurants are few and far between on this line. From Palermo to S. Caterina-Xirbi. — To Roccapalumha^ 431/2 M., see pp. 290-291. The country is bleak and deserted. 54 M. Valledolmo ; 591/2 M. Vallelunga, On the right rises the Monte Campanaro, 621/2 M. Villalba, The railway here reaches the valley of the Bilice, which flows to theS., soon, however, beyond (661/2 M.) Marianopoli, leaving it by a tunnel nearly 4 M. long, through the mountain-range in front, on which the village of Marianopoli lies. — 73 M. Mimiani-San Cataldo, S. Cataldo is a considerable distance from the railway, to the S. — 79 M. S. Caterina-Xirbi, see p. 299. OALTANTSSETTA. 29. Route. 299 From Giugrnti to S. Caterina-Xirri. — To Araynna-Caldare^ 074 M., see p. 292. The train passes through several tunnels and traverses a district full of sulphur-mines (‘zolfare’). To the right frequent views of the sea and Girgenti are obtained. 9 M. Comitini- Zolfare; 13 M. Grotte., perhaps the ancient Erftcssws , whence the Romans derived their supplies of provisions while besieging Agri- gentum in 262. The Madonie Mts. to the N. remain in sight for sometime. — 14:*/2 M. Racalmuto^ a beautifully situated town with 12,000 inhabitants. — 191/2 Castrofilippo. 231/3 M. Canicatti is the junction for the line to Licata and thence via Modica to Syracuse (R. 30). The town, with 22,000 in- hab., is situated on a slight eminence to the W. of the station. 271/2 M. Serradifalco, a small town from which Domenico lo Faso Pietrasanta, Duca di Serradifalco (d. 1863) , the editor of the ‘Antichita della Sicilia’, derived his title. — 35 M. S. Cataldo ; the village, named after St. Cataldus of Tarentum, with 14,000 inhabitants, is 2 M. to the N. of the station. — Several tunnels. 371/2 M. Caltanissetta (1930 ft.; Alb. della Ferrovia^ at the station, R. li/2fr., well spoken of; Concordia^ Italia; Cafe near the cathedral), a provincial capital with 30,000 inhabitants, situated on a hill. A band play^ in the evening in the piazza in front of the Cathedral (S. Michele), which contains a few paintings of the later Sicilian school. At the S. end of the town is the Qiardino Puhblico., which commands a striking view of the surrounding mountains and valleys, especially towards the E. About 2 M. to tbe E. of Caltanissetta lies the monastery of Badia di S. Spirito a fine example of the Norman style, erected by Roger I. About 2 M. farther on is a mud-volcano, resembling the Maccalubi (p. 292). At S. Caterina {Loc. Clementi , R. 4 fr.), 79 M. from Palermo and 47 M. from Girgenti, the two lines unite. The station is at Xirbij 3 M. from the miserable little town of S. Caterina. Coming from Girgenti we catch our first glimpse of Mount ./Etna just before reaching this station. The following distances are reckoned from Palermo. 83 M. /mem, beyond which the line crosses the Fiume Salso (Himera Meridionalis). — 89 M. Villarosa^ a pleasant-looking town, with valuable sulphur-mines in the vicinity. The train now enters a mountainous region, and ascends in windings, across viaducts, and through tunnels. It then threads the tortuous ravine between Calascibetta (p. 300) and Castrogiovanni , affording glimpses of these places high overhead. Parts of the line traverse very unstable ground, and the cuttings are provided with strong vaulted roofs. 951/2 M. Castrogiovanni (Rail. Restaurant) . An omnibus (six times daily; fare luggage 25c.) ascends in about 1 hr. from the station to the town. On the rocks to the left of the entrance stands a Roman altar. Castrogiovanni (Ai6. Cenfmie, Via Roma, R. 2-21/2 fr.), the Arabic Kasr - Yanni , a corruption of Enna , was termed ‘inexpugnabilis’ by Livy, and has recently been very strongly 300 Route 29. CASTROGIOVANNI. From Palermo fortified. It is charmingly situated on the level summit of a hill (2605 ft.), in the form of a horse-shoe, and open towards the E. Pop. 16,000. With this mountain the myths of the most ancient inhabitants were intimately connected, and this was the principal scene of the worship of the Demeter-Kora of the aborigines. The soil is much less fertile than it was in ancient times , when dense forests , brooks, and lakes converted this district into a luxuriant garden, where the hounds, it is said, lost the scent of their game amid the fragrance of the flowers, and the fields yielded a hundred-fold. Enna or Henna is said to have been founded by Syracuse in B.C. 664, and shared the fortunes of its mother-city. In 402 it fell by treachery into the hands of Dionysius I. ; Agathocles also possessed himself of the town; in the First Punic War it was captured by the Carthaginians, and finally was betrayed to the Romans. When the slaves under Eunus had thrown themselves into Enna the Romans regained possession of the place only after a fierce struggle. The siege lasted for two years (133-132), and to this day Roman missiles are found at the approach to Castrogio- vanni where the ascent is most gradual. The besieged were reduced by famine rather than by force of arms. In 837 the Saracens in vain endeavoured to storm the town, to which the inhabitants of the whole surrounding district had fled for refuge. In 859 Abbas-ibn-Fahdl gained possession of the fortress through treachery, a prisoner having introduced the Arabs into the town by means of a tunnel on the N. side. The booty was enormous. Some of the women were sent as slaves as far as Bagdad. In 1087 the Normans took the town. In the middle ages it was again partly fortified. The main street ascends through the town to the old citadel, known as La Rocca, a very ancient structure, repaired by King Manfred, with numerous towers. The *View from the platform of the highest tower is one of the finest in Sicily, as we stand at the central point of the island (Enna, the ‘umbilicus’ of Sicily). Towards the E. towers the pyramid of ^tna; to the N. run two mountain - chains, ramifications of the Nebrodian Mts. ; towards the N.N.E. rises Monte Artesino (3915 ft.), beyond the hill on which Calascibetta lies (2880 ft.). On the E. prolongation of the latter lie Leonforte and xAgira; between the two, more in the background, Troina (see p. 301). Farther to the E. is Centuripe. To the N.N.W., on a precipitous ridge between Monte Artesino and the Madonian Mts., are Petralia Soprana and Gangi. To the N.W., S. Calogero, near Termini, is visible ; to the W., the Pizzo di Oammarata ; and to the S., the Heraean Mts., Licata, and the sea. — A walk round the citadel affords a series of beautiful views. — Not a vestige is left of the famous temples of Demeter (Ceres) and Proserpine. The former is supposed to have stood where La Rocca is situated, and the latter on the Monte Salvo, near the convent of the Padri Riformati. At the other end of the town is a Castle, built by Frederick II. of Aragon. The Cathedral, founded in 1307, contains, to the left of the entrance, a censer on an antique stand. The pulpit, the choir-stalls, and an ancient silver-gilt tabernacle are also noteworthy, and the treasury contains many valuable objects. — The Bihlioteca Comu- nale (librarian, Avvocato Paolo Vetri) contains some good incuna- to Catania. OKNTIJKI IM“al“ body of troops under S«n(« Rosaha. 328 Route 34. TAORMINA. From Messina Ascending the main street (Corse Umberto) from the Forta di Catania j the W. entrance of the town, nearly to the other end of the town, we reach the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Thence the Strada di Giovanni, continued by the Salita del Teatro, leads S.E. to the celebrated theatre, by far the most interesting sight of Taormina. The ^Theatre is situated 420 ft. above the sea - level , on a height to the E. of the town. The custodian is on the spot the whole day (1 fr.). If the visitor desires to see the sunrise from this point he should give the custodian notice beforehand, in order that the door may be left open for him. — The custodian shows a small Museum containing a torso of Bacchus , a fine head of Apollo from the theatre, inscriptions, mosaics, sarcophagi, and architectural fragments. The theatre is of Greek origin , but dates in its present form from a restoration carried out in the Roman period , in which the stage was entirely reconstructed. Excavations made in 1882 prove that a building of the Greek period on the top of the rock, near the museum, was removed by the Romans to make room for the found- ations of the upper vestibule. According to an inscription on the road-side, the theatre was destroyed by the Saracens, though in reality it owes its ruin to the Duca di S. Stefano, who employed its marble ornaments in decorating his palace. In 1748 it was partly restored. It is hewn in the rock in a semicircular form, and is bounded at the upper end and on two sides only by Roman masonry. The greatest diameter is 357 ft., that of the orchestra about 126 ft. The stage, next to that of Aspendus in Pamphylia, is the best-preserved in existence. In the posterior wall are observed the three doors of the stage, in each space between which are three niches, and on each side a niche for a statue. The stage itself is narrow, as in Greek theatres, where the orchestra occupied the greater space. The exact position of the Hhymela’ (or raised plat- form for the choir) cannot now be determined. Beneath the stage is situated a vaulted channel for water. The precise object of the apertures in the proscenium is unknown, but they were probably connected with the machinery of the theatre. Festal processions advanced to the stage from the vaulted halls on each side. The adjoining smaller apartments were probably used as dressing-rooms. The seats for spectators were divided into nine mnei. The idea that the thirty-four niches on the upper praecinctiones were occu- pied by sounding-boards is questionable, as the acoustic properties of the building are already so successful that every word spoken on the stage is distinctly audible at the farther extremity. Correspond- ing with the remains of the forty-five columns are forty-five pilasters along the central wall. The **ViEw from the hill on which the theatre stands is one of the most beautiful in Italy. We first take up our position on the steps in front of the small museum on the top. On the right, immediately below us , lies the well-preserved theatre , and to the left rises the gigantic py- ramid of JEtna. To the left in the foreground, in the valley of the Al- cantara, are the mountains of Castiglione , and then the hills and rocky to Catania. MOLA. 34. Route. 329 peaks beyond the theatre: from left to right vve iirst observe La Maestra, S. Maria della Rocca (the hermitage), the castle of Taormina, and beyond it the overhanging hill of Mola and the still higher Monte Venere or Venerella; at the point where the latter slopes down towards the N. is seen the rocky peak of Lapa, and then, nearer us, to the left, beyond the tiumara , the precipitous M. Zirreto with its marble quarries. The view is even more beautiful in the morning, when the sun rises above Calabria or from the sea, imparts a rosy hue to the snowy peak of Mt. .(Etna, and then gilds the rocky heights beyond the theatre. Those who make a prolonged stay at Taormina will have an opportunity of observing some marvellous eftects of light and shade. The other sights of the town may be visited by those who have abundance of time. In the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (p. 328) is the Gothic Palazzo Corvaia. The interesting court of this palace is entered by a door in the Piazza Cavour; on the staircase is a relief (14th cent.) representing the Creation of Eve, the Flood, and Adam delving and Eve spinning. Adjacent, to the left, is the church of S. Caterina^ with a graceful facade, and a small antique Theatre or Oymnasium^ excavated in 1 894. Many of the doorways and windows in the Corso are either Gothic or Romanesque. — In the Giardino del Gapitolo, in the Strada Naumachia, which diverges to the left, is a so-called Roman Naumachia, probably once a bath-establishment (key at No. 27 in Via S. Giovanni, near the Pal. Corvaja). — The Corso leads on to the Cathedral, the side-entrance to which is formed by a handsome Gothic portal. Inside, to the right of the high-altar, is a statue of the Madonna, dating from the 15th century. In front of the main en- trance is a fountain. — The road to the right of the fountain ascends to the Villa Zuccaro, the Badia Vecchia, a fine Gothic ruin, and the former convent of S, Domenico (splendid views). — Near the Porta Catania, in the Corso, is the Gothic Palazzo S. Stefano, with vaulted baths borne by a massive granite column. — In the vicinity of the town are four interesting grottoes. The following walk is recommended. From the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele through the Porta di Messina to the church of S. Pan- crazio, the cella of a Greek temple (prostylos). Then back to the road, which we descend (to the right after 5 min.) to the (10 min.) church of SS. Pietro e Paolo, near which is an extensive necropolis. The stairs adjoining the church lead to the former convent of the Frati Osservanti, from which the town is regained by a footpath. Another beautiful walk is to Mola (1 hr., guide unnecessary; stony path). Within the Porta di Messina we turn to the left towards the fountain, pass to the right of it, and follow the water- conduit; then we pass under the arch to an ancient Columbarium (by the railing, the ‘Stagnone’, a Roman reservoir, is accessible), and about 45 paces beyond the reservoir, where the water emerges, ascend the steps to the left. Mola (osteria by the Matrichiesa, poor and dear), a dirty village which lies 2080 ft. above the sea- level, commands an imposing view, the finest point being the ruined castle (key obtained for a trifling gratuity). In returning we follow 330 Route 34. GIARRE. From Messina the crest of the hill, which to the right descends to the Fiumara della Decima and to the left to the Torrente di Fontana Vecchia, and reach the hack of the castle of Taormina. Under the almond- trees is the entrance to the castle, whence another admirable view is obtained (key at the custodian’s of the theatre). We may then descend to the S.E. by a winding path between the mountain and the her- mitage (Madonna della Rocca). Near the Porta Francese are rock- tombs of pre-Hellenic origin. The castle also commands a view of the site of Naxos ^ the earliest Greek colony in Sicily, founded by Theocles in B.C. 735. It is now occu- pied by a lemon-plantation , situated between the influx of the Alcantara and the bay on which Giardini lies. The altar of Apollo Archagetes, the tutelary god of the colonists , on which the ambassadors of the Sicilian Greeks were wont to offer sacrifices before starting for the Hellenic festal assemblies, stood between the river and Taormina. Naxos was subjugated by Hiero I. of Syracuse in 476, but soon regained its liberty and espoused the cause of Athens, whose general Nicias wintered in the town in 415-14, It was destroyed by Dionysius in 403. The ascent of Monte Venerella (2900 ft. : 4-5 hrs. there and back) may easily be combined with a visit to Mola, and should not be omitted by those who have a few days to spend at Taormina. At the deep depression behind the hill of Mola we skirt the churchyard - wall , following the somewhat stony path ascending the arete. Refreshments at the cottage passed on the way. The top commands an extensive view, including the Val d’Alcantara, Castiglione, Eandazzo, etc. Continuation of Journey to Catania. Beyond Giardini the railway traverses the lava-streams of ^Etna. On the northernmost of these stands the so-called Gastello di Schist), on the site of the ancient Naxos. 32 M. Calatabiano ; the little town lies above , to the right. The train crosses the Alcdntera, the ancient Acesines. Cantara is an Arabic word signifying a bridge. This district is rendered unhealthy by malaria. The lava-stream which descended beyond (331/2 M.) Alcantara and the Ponte della Disgrazia across the Flume Freddo, prevented the Carthaginian general Himilco from proceeding direct to Syracuse after the destruction of Messana, and compelled him to march round the mountain to the N. (B.C. 396). Here, too, the road via Randazzo now diverges (see R. 35). 351/2 M. Piedimonte (p. 332). The train next traverses the fertile district of Mascali (p. 332) and reaches (401/2 M.) Giarre Riposto. Giarre {Locanda della Pace, tolerable), 2/4 M. from the station, is a town with 18,000 inhab. ; Riposto (Scrofina’s Inn, tolerable) lies to the left, on the coast. Above the village of S. Alfio, on the slopes of ^tna, 41/2 M. above Giarre, are the remains of the gigantic chestnut-tree di Cento Cavalli, near which several other famous old trees are still flourishing. The craters which were in activity in 1865 and the Valle del Bove may be reached from Giarre in 5 hrs. (comp. p. 346). — From Giarre to Catania round the W. side of Mt. iEtna (Ferrovia Circumetnea), see p. 332. 431/2 M. Carruha; 46 M. Mangano. The train crosses several lava-beds. Fine view of ^Etna and the sea. Four tunnels. to Catania. ACIREALE. 34. Route. 331 50^2 Acireale. — Hotels. •''Grand Hotel, near the station, a large establishment of the first class, with garden and S. aspect, R. from 2V2, pens. 8-10 fr,* ‘"Hotel Ruggiero, Strada del Carmine, R., L., aMvi/ ts^«H U iversita* 1 ^”*^ j' CATANIA. 30. Route. 335 03 M. Misterbianco (700 ft.), a town with 7000 inhah., was destroyed in 1609. A road diverges to the right to the town of Malta S. Anastasia (p. 302). To the left, near Erbe BiancJie^ are the fragments of a Roman building, and a few hundred feet farther, the remains of baths, called Damusi. To tlie right rises the Monte Cardillo, an old crater of the ^tna group. The line intersects the extensive lava-stream of 1669 (comp, p. 337). — 66 V 2 M. Cibali. 67t/2 M. Catania, 36. Catania. Arrival. By Railway. The station (Restaurant, well spoken of) lies to the N.E. of the town (PI. H, 4) ^ omnibuses from the principal hotels are waiting, 1 fr. \ cab, see below. — By Steamer. Landing (or embarcation) 1/2 fr., with luggage 1 fr. each person. Hotels. Hotel Oriental, Piazza dei Martiri (PI. O, 5), at the entrance of the town, R. 4-6, L. 1, A. 1, B. IV 2 , dej. 31 / 2 , H. 5, pens. 12-15, omn. 1 fr.^ ’"Hotel Grande Bretagne, Via Lincoln, R. 21 / 2 - 31 / 2 , L. 3/4, A. 3/4, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens. 9-11 fr.-, Alb. Centrale, Via Stesicoro-Etnea, opposite the university, R. & A. 31/4 fr., L. 60 c., dej. 21 / 2 , H. 4 (both inch wine), pens. incl. wine 9-10 fr.^ Hotel du Globe, Via Stesicoro-Etnea 28, R. 11 / 2 - 21/2 fr., L. 40 c., A. 1 / 2 , B. I 1 / 2 , dej. 3, D. 41 / 2 , pens. 10-11, omn. 1 fr., good cuisine, rooms less satisfactory. — Unpretending second-class inns: ViTTORiA, Roma, Malta, etc., R. I 1 / 2-2 fr. — Furnished Apartments are advertised in many streets. Trattorie. "Ristorante Savoia.^ Via Mancini, near the Piazza Manga- nelli (PL E, 4)-, Vermouth di Torino.^ Via Lincoln, opposite the Hot. Grande Bretagne^ Nuova Villa di Sicilia., Via Lincoln 259 (with good rooms to let); Villa Nuova^ to the right in the passage from the Piazza del Duomo to the Marina, tolerable (Vino Bosco 25, Terraforte 30, Bianco 50 c. per 1/2 bottle). — Cafe. di Sicilia., in the Albergo Elefante, Piazza del Duomo. — Beer at the Birreria Svizzera., Via Manzoni, opposite the post-office. Cabs. With one horse, per drive for 1-3 pers. 30, at night 40 c. ; each pers. additional 10 c., luggage 20 c.; per hour Ifr. 30, or Ifr. 50 c. With two horses, per hour, 2 fr. 30, at night 2 fr. 50 c. Reading Room, with Italian and a few French newspapers, Palazzo della Prefettura, Via Stesicoro-Etnea, on the left when approached from the university; strangers admitted gratis. Post and Telegraph Office (PI. E, 4), Via Manzoni, in the building of the Banca d^Italia, near the University. — Bank ; Banca Industriele £cu%n 4 x/ df ZdtOjntrxm , jVMtUiW \ , ' ; YDM^eMvL ^ ;' ' ■ ■' ■ ^l/Mjdini 4 ^\ori? ^ C. Schiso 'iiajtw Piediluofti luttrCieretio i d^U^eJPiedoinhe^ ^el Re ale \^oi^^ 9 !^\^ i^'ySSifiJAi^av . ^ MMETOt: J^hritur yot fAviCastella Scala iLcl 1 : 300.000 Spiegazione de hohil al)Dre^ati: all Ovest del gTajL Crater e : ro. Moute Foiiloaeddl F. „ Ferraro G. .1 Gcdlot)ULTico T. „ Testa. V. T\tiuldi ( Cr.- Craterl uitovl) al Slid; Sc. Sdiirlcosimo CcL. M. Capriolo L. ,1 Lardxrttzzo Co. II CoTurlolo SF. Scrra diFoIco VD. YttlioTtc Demoite SN. M. S.lticola (je.Monte GemcXlaro PL. P'utiu) tlel. Layo Wa-oner & I) eh es, Leipzig. O J c ' - iff »i •»nl4»it ..:> '^ f« ■ iv‘‘)«07jv . « .j« f yrn'^en'J 1%^ •4»i»»ilm>.r « \^ir ! "Urti^.y >-''^ Vegetation. MOUNT m'NA. .■i7. Route. 311 which remains there during the night, and conveys the traveller back to Catania next day via Trecastagne^ is 25-30 fr., with an additional gratuity of 3-5 fr. (Hutto compreso’)- One-horse carr. 15 fr. and 2-3 fr. gratuity. Those who walk or ride to Nicolosi may engage a carriage for the return only ( with one horse 10, with two 15 fr. and 1-2 fr. fee). (Carriage of course preferable for the return to Catania after a fatiguing ride of 10-12 hrs., although the charges are exorbitant.) Even in hot weather the traveller should not fail to be provided with an overcoat or plaid, as the wind on the mountain is often bitterly cold. The coverings supplied to strangers at the Osservatorio (p. 345) are said to be almost unusable. In winter or spring, when the snow is still un- melted, a veil or coloured spectacles will be found useful. Large spectacles are ahso advantageous in a high wind as a protection against the dust. In general the equipment for alpine ascents suggests what is necessary here ^ warm gloves, woollen stockings, and strong shoes are of course indispensable. Provisions for the ascent, including water, had better be procured at Nicolosi. Suitable baskets, containing strong coffee in bottles, wine, bread, cold meat, and salt, may be ordered at the hotels. Distances. From Catania to Nicolosi by carriage in 2 hrs., returning in IVi hr. ; on foot from Borgo di Catania, to which point driving is ad- visable (omnibus 10 c.), in 3 V 25 back in 2 hrs. Mule from Nicolosi to the Casa del Bosco 2V2-3 hrs., thence to the Osservatorio 3-4 hrs. ^ on foot from Nicolosi (not advisable) 7-8 hrs. (halts not included). From the Osservatorio to the crater, on foot only, in l-O/i hr. *, halt on the summit and descent to the Osservatorio 2-2V2 hrs.; thence to Nicolosi 4-5 hrs. Plan of Excursion. In winter or spring travellers are advised to drive in the afternoon from Catania to Nicolosi, so as to have the entire night for the a'^cent. Mules are taken only to the snow -line, generally indeed only to the Casa del Bosco. The observatory is closed at this season. The summit should be quitted for the return before the sun has melted the snow too much. — In summer and autumn the ascent is usually made as follows : — Drive from Catania to Nicolosi in the morning, breakfast, and start again at 10 a.m., reaching the Casa del Bosco at 1.30 p.m.; rest here for 1 hr., and then ascend to the Osservatorio, where the guides usually prepare soup (brodo , Eng. broth) from meat brought for the purpose. Several hours of repose are enjoyed here, the ascent not being resumed till 2 or 2.30 a.m., and the summit is gained at 3.15 or 3.45 a.m. — The guides should be required to observe punctually the prescribed hours of starting , in order that the traveller may neither arrive too late at the Osservatorio nor be surprised by the sunrise before reaching the top. Those who pass the night in Nicolosi may begin the ascent about 8 a.m. It is hardly advisable to start from Nicolosi in the afternoon, and make part of the ascent during the night. An excellent map of iEtna and its environs was published by Sartorius von Waltershausen in 1848-59 Gottingen and Weimar; 2nd edit., by Lasaulx., Leipzig, 1880). Mount .Etna (10,870 ft.), Italian Etna and Sicilian Mongibello (from ‘monte’ and ‘jebel’, the Arabic for mountain), commonly called ‘ii Monte\ is the loftiest volcano in Europe, as well as the highest mountain in Italy. There are three different zones of vegetation on the slopes of Etna. The first extends beyond Nicolosi, called the Regione Piemontese or Coltivata^ and yielding the usual Sicilian products. Up to a height of 1600 ft. grow large groves of oranges and lemons ; higher up the vine predominates, being occasionally seen at a height of 3600 ft. The next zone is the Regione Boscosa or Nemorosa, extending to 6900 ft. and subdivided into two regions. The lower of these (2200-4200 ft.) is clothed chiefly with oaks and chestnuts, above which are copper-beeches (Fagus silvatica) and birches 342 Route 37. MOUNT ^TNA. Eruptions. (Betnla alba and Betula Etnensis). On the N.E. side, at a height of 6700 ft., are extensive forests of Laricio pines (Finns Laricio, Sicil. zappinu), the only lofty coniferous trees among the forests of Mt. ^tna. In the highest zone, the Regione Deserta, from 6900 ft. to the summit, the vegetation is of a most stunted descrip- tion. Even at a height of 6200 ft. the beeches become dwarfed. Owing to the scarcity of water and the frequent changes in the sur- face of the soil no Alpine flora can exist here, but there is a narrow zone of sub-Alpine shrubs, most of which occur also in the upper part of the wooded region. About forty species of plants only are found here, among which are the barberry, juniper, Viola gracilis, and Saponaria depressa. Within the last 2000 ft. five phanerogam- ous species only flourish : Senecio Etnensis, Anthemis Etnensis, Robertsia taraxacoides (these three peculiar to ^tna), Tanacetum vulgare, and Astragalus Siculus, which last grows in tufts of 3-4 ft. in diameter. The Senecio Etnensis is found as high as the vi- cinity of the crater, several hundred feet above the Osservatorio. Not a trace of animal life can be detected on the higher portion of the mountain. The black silent waste, glittering in the sun- shine, produces an impression seldom forgotten by those who have witnessed it. On the lower parts of the mountain, wolves, as well as hares, rabbits, and a few wild boars, are the usual objects of the chase, .^tna is clothed with fourteen different forests, which, however, present no definite line of demarcation. Ferns (especially the Pteris aquilina) frequently take the place of underwood. The densest forests are the Boschi della Cerrila and di Linguaglossa on the N.E. side, which, however, suffered greatly from the eruption of 1865. As lately as the 16th cent, impenetrable forests extended from the summit down to the valley of the Alcantara, and Cardinal Bembo extols the beauty of the groves of plane-trees. About the beginning of last century upwards of one-third of the E. coast of Sicily was still overgrown with forest. Eruptions. ^Etna has been known as a volcano from the earliest ages. At one time the mountain has been represented as the prison of the giant Enceladus or Typhoeus, at another as the forge of Vulcan. It is, however, remarkable that the Greek mar- iners’ traditions in Homer do not allude to its volcanic character. Pindar, on the other hand, describes an eruption of B.C. 476, and a violent outbreak in prehistoric times made the Sicanians abandon the district. About eighty eruptions fall within the limits of history. The most violent were those of B.C. 396, 126, and 122, and A.D. 1169, 1329, 1537, and 1669. The last of these, one of the most stupendous of all, has been described by the naturalist Borelli. On that occasion the Monti Rossi were formed, 27,000 persons were deprived of all shelter, and many lives were lost in the rapidly descending streams of lava. In 1693 an eruption was accompanied by a fearful earthquake, which partially or totally Eruptions. MOUNT .UTNA. 37. Itouie. 343 destroyed forty towns, and caused a loss of 00-100,000 lives. An eruption took place in 1755, the year of the earthquake at Lisbon, and others in 1766 and 1792. The last has been described by Ferrara. In the present century there have been nineteen erup- tions, an average of one every four or five years. The most violent were those of 1812, 1819, 1843, 1852, and 1865. The first of these lasted six weeks and the second two months ; the three last- mentioned were especially active at Bronte , Zafferana , and at the foot of Mte. Frumento to the N.E. of the principal crater respect- ively. The eruption of 1865 was accompanied by an earthquake which destroyed the village of La Macchia. ^tna has again been in eruption in 1868, 1869, 1874, 1879, 1883, 1886, and 1892. The most violent recent eruptions were those of 1879 and 1886. The former (26th May to 6th June, 1879) occurred on the N. slope, and was accompanied by the unusual phenomenon of a simultaneous out- break of lava on the W.S.W. of the crater, which, however, ceased flowing at a height of 6500 ft. On the N.N.E. side the lava first appeared in the crater of 1874, near Monte Grigio. Here, at a height of 4705 ft. above the sea, it formed a new crater, which Prof. Silvestri, who witnessed its formation, has named Monte Umberto- Margherita. The lava poured forth in large masses from an opening at the foot of this elevation. Its descent was at first at the rate of about 15 ft. per minute, afterwards 3-6 ft. per minute, and finally 30-40 ft. per hour. In its course it devastated a large tract of cultivated ground (valued at upwards of 20,000L), crossed the road from Linguaglossa to Randazzo (p. 332), and did not cease to flow till it had almost reached the river Alcantara. The superficial area of this stream of lava amounts to 2,720,000 sq. yds., while that on the S.W. side covers 135,000 sq. yds. only. The eruption of 1886 had been threatened since 1883. On 22nd March of that year, earthquakes and loud reports were followed by the formation of a fissure on the S. side of the mountain, to the E. of Monte Concilio (marked ‘Co’ on our map). No farther effects were observed, and although Prof. Silvestri prophesied another outbreak on the same spot, the volcano remained comparatively quiescent for three years. On 18th May, 1886, however, the large central crater resumed activity and emitted dense clouds of steam and showers of ashes. Early the next morning a violent earthquake was felt on the S. slope of the mountain, and a new crater, about 4650 ft. above the sea-level, was formed to the N.E. of Monte Con- cilio , about 4Y4 M. above Nicolosi , from the summit of which steam, molten stone, and ashes were hurled, amid crashes and reports like thunder. From the S. base of this new hill, now known as Monte Oemellaro (‘Ge’ on our map), molten lava poured down the mountain, at the rate of 160-190 ft. per hour. The fury of the eruption reached its height on 21st May. The lava continued to flow in the direction of Nicolosi, the terror-stricken inhabitants of which 344 Route 37. MOUNT iETNA. Ascent, bore the pictures of the saints from the churches in a supplicatory procession to the so-called Altarelli^ a building dedicated to the patron-saints of the village, and situated about 1 M. above it on a small eminence. On the evening of the 24th, the bishop of Catania solemnly displayed the Veil of St. Agata. Three days later the lava -stream reached the Altarelli, but divided at the eminence and gradually slackened its speed. Another stream , however, on the E. side of Monte Rosso, made straight for Nicolosi. At midday on 31st May, the prefect ordered the village to be evacuated, and guarded the approach to it with soldiers. On 3rd June, how- ever, the lava ceased flowing, within 370 yds. of the first houses, and on the next day the eruption ended with another earthquake. This eruption, though one of the most violent of the century, was less important than those of 1865, 1852, and 1843. That of 1891 was more important, but as the lava in this case flowed over that of earlier eruptions, the damage to cultivation was slight. Con- siderable harm was wrought by the eruption of July 9th, 1892. A crater opened near Monte Gemellaro (p. 343) and discharged a stream of lava to the 8., which was soon followed by others. The main stream, with an initial velocity of 380 and 540 ft. per hr. (afterwards 30-40 ft. per hr.), had on Aug. 6th approached within 11/4 M. of Borello and within 21/2 M. of Nicolosi and Pedara. **Ascent. We quit Catania by the long Strada Etnea, and pass a long succession of country-residences. If time permits, the trav- eller should visit the park of the Marchese S.Giuliano, at Licatia, a little to the right of the road. By the Barriera the road divides, that to Nicolosi leading to the left, between the two obelisks. The ascent becomes more rapid; Qravina is passed, then Mascalucia (3000 inhab.), and farther on Massanunziata (1800 ft.). Between this and Nicolosi we traverse the barren surface of the lava-stream of 1537. The rounded and at places tree-like bushes of broom (Genista Etnensis) here form a peculiar feature in the scene. To the right of the road, about 1 M. from Nicolosi, is the crater called the Grotta del Bove, which may be visited in passing (no path, through a doorway in a wall). To the left tower the reddish cones of the Monti Rossi (see below). Nicolosi (2290 ft. ; *H6tel delV Etna, kept by Mazzaglia, mod- erate, basket of provisions for lt /2 day, 7 fr. each person; Alb. ^ Trattoria Liotta, well spoken of, tariff-prices), a village with 2700 inhab., 9 M. to the N.W. of Catania, is the usual starting-point for an ascent of Mt. ^tna. The traveller should at once apply to the ‘Capo- Guida’, in the Ufficio delle Guide, and make the needful arrangements with him (comp. p. 340). — Those who intend to sleep at Nicolosi should arrive in time to make an excursion to the Monti Rossi, the so-called Fratelli (3110 ft., in 2-3 hrs., there and back; guide, not indispensable for experts, see p. 340), the same afternoon. Beyond Nicolosi we skirt the cemetery to the right. Crater. MOUNT tETNA. 37. Houle. :$45 after a few min. enter a garden on tlie right, climb tlie low lava-wall, and ascend, at first in the depression between the peaks, to the summit on the left. The top commands a fine view, especially of the lava-field of 1886. — A visit to the Monte Gemellaro (p. 343) requires nearly a day. The best route passes the Monte Arso, where there is a cistern containing water in the house of Sign. Auteri. To the foot of the crater, a ride of 5 hrs. ; the cone must be ascended on foot. On the way to ^tna we pass the country-houses of Sign. Bruno and Sign. Bonanno , skirt the Monti Rossi to the W. , and then cross part of the lava-stream of 1886. In 3 - 31/2 we reach the Casa del Bosco (4215 ft.), at the W. base of the Monte Rinazzi. Near it good drinking-water is to be had, of which the guides carry away a supply. In the vicinity are several small craters, formed in 1892, which the guides will point out. The path winds through a hollow between smaller extinct volcanoes, until, about 6900 ft. above the sea, it enters the Regione Deserta. The ascent is at first gradual. To the right is seen the Montagnuola (8670 ft.), the W. extremity of the Serra del Solfizioj below which to the S. are hollows filled with snow. To the N. this ridge descends perpendicularly to a depth of 2-3000 ft. to the Valle del Bove, round which the traveller proceeds by the Piano del Lago^ after a short but precipitous part of the ascent. The night is spent in the rooms reserved for tourists in the Osservatorio (9650 ft. ; p. 341), built in 1887 on the site of the former Casa Inglese., which was erected by order of several English officers at the beginning of the century during the occupation of Sicily. Travellers are permitted to cook their provisions in the kitchen of the observatory. The latter is usually closed, the cus- todian merely visiting it about once a fortnight to read the instru- ments, etc. The fine volcanic dust finds its way through the crev- ices of the walls, so that the rooms are far from clean. The Osservatorio lies about 1200 ft. below the summit, which is easily reached in an hour, if the sides are free of ashes. When the ashes are deep, however, the ascent is very fatiguing. The form of the Crater undergoes constant alteration. At one time it consists of a single abyss, 2-3 M. in circumference, at an- other it is divided by a barrier into two parts, one of which only emits smoke. The summit itself is usually altered by every erup- tion. From the highest peak (10,835 ft.) the Sunrise, a spectacle of indescribable grandeur, should be witnessed. The summit is illumined by the morning twilight whilst all below is enveloped in profound obscurity. The sun still reposes in the sea, which occasionally presents the appearance of a lofty bank of clouds, the horizon being considerably more elevated than the spectator would expect. For some time purple clouds have indicated the point where the sun is about to appear. Suddenly a ray of light flits across the surface of the water, gradually changing to a golden streak, the 346 Route 37. MOUNT ^TNA. lower part of which shimmers in an intense purple as it widens. The beaming disk then slowly emerges. The mountains of Calabria still cast their long shadows on the sea ; the top of ^tna alone is bathed in sunshine. The light gradually descends to the lower parts of the mountain, and the dark violet shadow which the vast pyra- mid casts over Sicily to the W. deepens. The outlines of the cone and its summit are distinctly recognised, forming a colossal isosceles triangle on the surface of the island. After ^4 the sublime spectacle is over, and the flood of light destroys the effect produced by the shadows. The deep valleys and the precipitous coast alone remain for a time in obscurity, being shaded by the loftier moun- tains. As the sun continues to ascend, new points become visible. The spectator stands at the centre of a vast circle of 260 M. in diameter and 800 M. in circumference. Towards the N.E. is the peninsula of Calabria, above which masses of clouds frequently hover on the N., giving it the appearance of an island. The Faro of Messina (the town not visible) lies at our feet, the Neptunian Mts. appear like insignificant hills, and the Nebrode only a degree higher. The Pizzo di Palermo, the highest point of the Madonie range to the W.N.W., and the Pizzo of Corleone and Cammarata to the W. are the only conspicuous points. In winter, when the atmosphere is unusually clear , the motion of the waves on the shores of the island is said to be distinguishable. The coast of Africa, being below the horizon, cannot possibly be visible, notwithstanding the assurances of the guides. Malta, however, may be distinguished. The greater part of the E. coast of the island is visible ; the Lipari islands appear to greet their majestic sovereign with their columns of smoke ; and the promontory of Milazzo extends far into the sea. After a walk round the crater (which, however, is rendered impracticable by the smoke in a high wind, comp. p. 340), we descend rapidly to the Osservatorio and remount our mules. In descending, we make a slight digression towards the E. in order to approach the upper margin of the Valle del Bove, a black, desolate gulf, 3 M. in width, bounded on three sides by perpendicular cliffs, 2000-4000 ft. in height (left Serra delle Concazze, right Serra del Solfizio)., and opening towards the E. only. Geologically this basin is the most remarkable part of ^tna, as its S.W. angle, the so- called Balzo di Trifoglietto, where the descent is steepest and most precipitous, was very probably the original crater of the mountain. — The traveller should not omit to direct the guides to conduct him to the two regular cones whence an eruption in 1852 proceeded. Geologists may make the fatiguing descent to Zafferana (poor accom- modation at Francesca Barbara’s) in order to view the immense lava-streams (see p. 343) in the Valle del Bove ; a visit there and back from Catania takes 11/2 day. From the upper margin of the Valle del Bove we ride to the Torre del Filosofo (9570 ft.), the traditional observatory of Empedocles, who is said to have sought a voluntary death in LENTINI. 3«. Jtoute. 347 the crater. According to others it was used as a watch-tower in ancient times. As the building is obviously of Roman con- struction, it was possibly erected on the occasion of the Emperor Hadrian’s ascent of the mountain to witness the sunrise. The descent now recommences ; the steeper portions are more easily and safely traversed on foot. Before reaching the plain of Nieolosi, we see the convent of 8. Nicola df Arena to the left, where the Ben- edictines of Catania used to celebrate their vintage-festival. It was founded in 1156 by Simon, Count of Policastro, nephew of Roger I. Instead of returning to Catania, the traveller may prefer to proceed from Nieolosi via Pedara and Viagrande to Acireale (p.331), and thence by railway to Giardim (p. 325). 38. From Catania to Syracuse. 54 M. Railway, three trains daily in 874 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 90, 4 fr. 45 c.). — Steamboat twice weekly in 4 hrs. ^ from Syracuse to Malta, see p. 378. The railway intersects the Piano di Catania^ the Campi Lae- strygonii, which Cicero extols as the ‘uberrima pars Sicilise’, and which are still regarded as the granary of the island. To the right lies the town of Misterbianco (p. 335). 5 M. Bicocca^ junction for Girgenti and Palermo (R. 29). 10 M. Passo Martino. The train crosses the Simeto ( Symaethus), and beyond it the Gorna Lunga. Lower down, these streams unite to form the Giarretta. In winter the whole plain is frequently under water, and the highroad impassable. Malaria prevails in the lower parts in summer. The railway traverses the hilly ground. Tunnel. 15 M. Valsavoia. A Branch Railway runs hence via Militello and Mineo to Caltagirone (see p. 302). The train now approaches the Lago di Lentini, frequented by innumerable waterfowl in winter. This lake, the largest in Sicily, did not exist in ancient times. It is usually swollen in winter, while in summer its exhalations poison the atmosphere (Lentini is therefore to be avoided as a sleeping-place). Its circumference varies from 91/2 to M-? according to the height of the water. 18 M. Lentini. The town is about 3 M. from the station. Lentini (Albergo Centrale.^ with trattoria, well spoken of), a town with 11,000 inhab., the ancient Leontinoi^ one of the earliest Greek settlements in Sicily, was founded in B.C. 729 by colonists from Naxos under Theocles, sim- ultaneously with Catana. A century later the transition from oligarchy to democracy was succeeded by the establishment of a tyranny by Pansetius, who is said to have been the first tyrant in Sicily. After another century the town succumbed to Hippocrates, tyrant of Gela, and thus became subject to the tyrants Gelon, Hiero, and Thrasybulus of Syracuse. It afterwards regained its independence, but was again subdued by Syracuse, and to some extent gave rise to the war with Athens. Gorgias, the great orator and sophist, was a native of Leontinoi (480-380), and it was by his persuasive eloquence, as is well known, that the Athenians were induced to intervene in the quarrels of the Sicilians. After the disastrous issue of the war, Leontinoi continued subject to Syracuse^ but Timoleon at length expelled the tyrant 348 Route 38. AUGUSTA. llicetas and restored its independence. In the 3rd cent, it came into the power of Hiero II., whose successor Hieronymus lost his life here. Polybius, who records this event, at the same time describes the situation of the town. It appears to have lain to the S.W. of the present town, and not where topographers usually place it. Under the Romans it was of little im- portance. The Saracens gained possession of it at an early period. In the middle ages the fortress was besieged several times, and bravely defended. The town and castle were almost totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1693. A road ascends in long windings from Lentini to Carlentini., a poor town with 5500 inhab., founded by Charles V. (whence the name). From Lentini, or from Augusta, a visit may be paid to the tomb- caverns of Pantalica., to the N. of Palazzolo (p. 3()6) ^ carriage there and back in one day 25 fr. The train now turns to the E. towards the coast, following the valley of the S. Leonardo (the Terms of the ancients), which it afterwards crosses. This river, now an insignificant stream in a shallow valley hounded by limestone hills, was down to the 12th cent, navigable for sea-going vessels as far as Lentini. 24 M. Agnone, To the left the so-called Pantano , a marshy pond, becomes visible. The line skirts the lofty coast. 31 M. Brucoli. At the mouth of the Porcari (the ancient Pantacyas)^ which here breaks its way through the hills, lay Trotilon, one of the earliest Greek settlements in Sicily. Large salt-works are passed; the snow- white pyramids of salt are also seen elsewhere farther on. 35^2 M. Augusta, a fortified seaport with 12,000 inhab., was founded by Frederick II. irl 1232, and peopled with the inhabitants of Centuripe (p. 301), which was destroyed in 1233. It occupies the picturesque site of the ancient Xiphonia. The town was con- quered and destroyed several times in the middle ages. In 1676 it was taken by the French, and Duquesne here defeated De Ruyter, who died of his wounds at Syracuse (see p. 352). In 1693 the town was severely damaged by the earthquake. The railway follows the coast. The Megarean Bay of antiquity, extending from the Capo S. Croce, E. of Augusta, to the Capo S. Pan- agia near Syracuse, was formerly bordered with a number of towns. Here from N. to S. Xiphonia, Megara Hyblaea, and Alahon. Me- gara Hyblaea, which was situated between the mouths of the Alcan- tara and S. Gusmano, was founded in 728 by colonists from Megara near Athens, conquered and destroyed by Gelon, but re-erected af- ter the Athenian and Syracusan war as an outlying fort of Syracuse. 39 M. Lumidoro. On the hills to the right lies the small town of Melilli, where the Hyblaean honey, so highly extolled by the poets, was produced. On 1st and 2nd May a vast concourse of people as- sembles at Melilli to offer thanks to St. Sebastian for the miraculous cures effected by him, and to celebrate his festival. 44 M. Priolo ; the village lies to the right. To the left is the peninsula of Magnisi, connected with the mainland by a narrow isthmus. This was the peninsula of Thapsus, well known in con- nection with the Athenian campaign. The Athenian fleet lay to the N. of the isthmus. Salt-works are now situated here. lerKxino tardLescu tnlcdP \C.S^^ostino .deUcvFresci ^UippoWerv ^ C^errctJilmddl CCumxtreUayy ^cunend ICcuaiarella/ C.GarffolLo SIR/^CUS^eCONTORNI Scala Jiel 1:50.000 -4 CiJJ-ometii. ..AblireviaziQiii: C.=CoLsa .XtlatamiAV. G-eog;i’a5xv. -voD. Vagne uAccolla/ T^empio di Kya (\Boiixinno C.Aiuiirti ^W'galLo Coi'tolermni' ^recv CjJ^cn'oTT^^ I Vigna del 'Palaz z o ^•S.^wrarnni Ginnasio Rm Le Patvl] L^&lTOf 'C.SJ)cmidey Plemmypion >iAontpri& ^\irhi Juc^U*- SIRACUSA, 1 : 9.000 Jrtotri.. \.ArcLvesiovculo ’l.Ucuucav.azwixjctle, %.^cuhco diSiciUob 4 Ctancra- di Cmnjiiercio ' 1 ; h.DiLonw (letnpio ctu 1 1 Mm^rvo'y ) . . II 6. Ginjutsio R Zireo '/ l-Munidpio // ^BiJbhotec two trains daily in 21/1 brs. — Stations : Sindia , Tinnvra, Tresnuraghes , Nigotosu, Modolo. — 30 M. Bosa (Inn), a seaport with 6700 inhab,, is the seat of a bishop, and occupies the site of a Roman town of the same name, on the Temo, lYi M. from its mouth (coasting-steamer, see p. 363). From Macomer to Nuoro , 381/2 M., two trains daily in 21/2 hrs. — The nurago of S. Barbara appears on the left soon after we quit Macomer, and many others are seen farther on. — 21/2 M. Birori, also a station on the main line ; 572 M. Bortigali. — 8 M. Silanus, to the left of which is a fine nurago. IO 1/2 M. Lei; 13 M. Bolotana. We traverse a barren and malarious region to (16 M.) Tirso. where we join the line from Chilivani (p. 366). — 251/2 M. Oroielli; 271/2 M. Onniferi; 35 M. Prato. — 38i/2 M. Nuoro ( Alb. Etrvsco), a town with 6300 inhab., situated on the slope of a hill (1905 ft.), is the seat of a sub-prefect and of a bishop. Diligences ply hence daily in 474 hrs. via Paludi and Galtelli to the seaport of Orosei (Lloyd’s Agent, F. S. Guiso ; coasting-steamer, p. 363), the Cedrinus of the ancients; and in 6 hrs. via Orune to Bitti. 101 M. Birori (see above); IO 3 Y 2 M. Borore. The train rapidly descends. To the right of (109 M.) Abbasanta is the well-preserved nuraghe of Losa. Several other riuraghi and tumuli are seen farther on. 114 M. Paulilatino. — Beyond (120 Y 2 ^0 Bauladu we obtain a fine view, to the right, of the Campidano Plain, which the train enters at (125 M.) Solarussa. The vegetation now assumes a more African character; cacti take the place of heaps of stones to mark the boundaries of fields. A few palms appear. The excellent white wine known as Vernaccia is produced near Solarussa. — The train crosses the Tirso and reaches (128 M.) Simaxis, whence a road leads to Fordungianus (p. 368). 132 M. Oristano {Railway Restaurant; Alb. ^ Ristorante Ele- onora, with cafe, in the Piazza del Mercato, R. 3 fr., cuisine good ♦368 Route 40. THARROS. Sardinia. but not immaculately clean; Sig. Giuseppe Seu, also in the Piazza, has excellent rooms to let), a town with 7100 inhab., the seat of an archbishop and of a sub-prefect, is situated on the Tirso, in a marshy locality at the N. end of the Campidano plain. It occupies the site of the ancient Othoca^ the former capital of the district of Arborea. Several towers of the mediaeval fortifications are still standing, the finest being that in the Piazza del Mercato (where interesting local costumes may be seen on market-days). The Cathedral.^ of the 18th cent., contains several pictures by Marghinotti, a modern Sardinian artist. The Piazza del Municipio is embellished with a marble Sta- tue of Eleonora d" Arborea (p. 365), by Magni of Florence. Excursions. Tharros, about IOV 2 M. to the W, , may be reached by carriage in 2V4 hrs. (5 fr. ; provisions should be taken). The road crosses the Tirso and in 3/4 hr. reaches ( 41/2 M.) Cobras., a village on the salt lake (stagno; excellent fishing) of the same name, with the ruins of a castle where Eleonora of Arborea first accorded the charter of liberty (Carta de Logu) to her subjects. To the W., between the sea and the stagno, the sandy peninsula of Sinis terminates in the Promontory of S. Marco., where the ruined abbey -church of 8. Giovanni de Sinis approximately indicates the site of the ancient Phoenician town of Tharros, of which a few scanty remains are left. Farther to the S., on the coast, is situated the Necropolis, destroyed by years of ruthless treasure-seeking. Another excursion (by carriage in 2V2-3 hrs.) is to the ruins of the Roman town of Cornus, situated on the coast, 13 M. to the N.W. A still more attractive excursion (carr. in I 3/4 hr.) is that to Milis, a village situated about 11 M. to the N., at the base of Monte Ferru (3440 ft.), celebrated for its orange-plantations, which perfume the air far and near. The largest of these, the Bosco di Villaflor, belongs to the Marchese Boyl (no adm. to the chateau in the village) and contains about 500,000 orange and lemon trees, sheltered from the wind by huge ivy-wreathed elm and laurel trees, — The inhabitants of Milis and those of the neighbouring village of San Vero Milis are met with on foot and on horseback in their distinctive costumes in all parts of Sardinia, hawking fruit, reed-baskets, etc. To Fordungianus, about 14 M. to the N.E., by carriage in 3 hrs. — The modern village (no inn) occupies the site of the ancient Forum Trajani, the greater part of which lies 3-6 ft. below the present level of the soil. Relics of antiquity are seen on every side. Near the river is a thermal spring, with the remains of the Roman baths. On the opposite bank, on the way to Villa Nuova, are the scanty ruins of an amphitheatre. The Casa del Comune in Fordungianus contains a collection of antiquities. From this point to Tonara or Aritzo at the base of Gennargentu is a day’s ride (comp. p. 376); road to the station of Simaxis (p. 367). Beyond Oristano tbe railway to Cagliari skirts several marshy lakes separated only by a narrow strip of land from the Bag of Oris- tano. — 142 M. MarrubiUj 1^/4 M. to the S. of which lies Terralba, from the 12th to the 16th cent, the seat of a bishop who now resides at Ales, between S. Gavino and Laconi. — 147 M. liras, in a fertile plain at the base of the volcanic Monte Arci, the scene of a victory gained by the Marchese d’Oristano over the Spanish viceroy in 1470. — 1531/2 M. Pabillonis. To the left is the castle of Monreale, once the seat of the Giudici of Arborea, still in excellent preservation. — 159 M. San Gavino, whence a mineral-line diverges to the important lead-mine of Montevecchio . Saffron is largely cultivated here. — 163 M. Sanluri is a large village where in 1409 King Martin II. of Sicily, a scion of the house of Aragon, defeated Brancaleone Doria, S(tr(Uniiiran (hJnSrtlfndi Saw^'t^. ' ISOLE MALTESE 1 : 500.000 i/k;'” ''Ik 0 z z 0 ^uitun^ ••' V -il ^ Bihunw^aj eVCalxL I i’ortChanibray a® V 4 ComiiLo If ■ ^ino Cliajcnel s CdJ^so OrottA ' Tittoiiosa MALTA ilasavRnhib Srendi jTiuisjifJaiuaTa >;**^sa 8 cirocc o ^^enldsa TiirdlaHoct Cltllomts li'i SliemaCf.^ 'tManoel )rt StMino jrUlica^olL ALETTA ISS Geo^Aixst.^'WagTiBr tLebes Leipzig. Malta. CITtA VEOClirA. 41 . Route 38 1 Pleasant Walks along the ramparts, whicli are adorned with numerous statues of Grand Masters and of English Governors. The best point of view is at the Baracca Nuova. The Botanic Garden is also a favourite resort. On the E. side of the harbour lies the older part of the town, called the Citth Vittoriosa, inhabited by the lower classes. Farther distant is the Burmula , or Citth Cospicua , with its new docks ; and lastly the Senglea or Isola. The entrance to the harbour here is commanded by the fort of Ricasoli. An aqueduct, begun in 1610, with numerous arches intersect- ing the environs, supplies the town with water. The Palace of S. Antonio, the residence of the Governor, with a large and well- kept garden (visitors admitted), is about 41/2 M. distant. The forti- fied Citt^ Vecchia, or La Notabile, 2 M. farther on (railway ; station outside the Porta Reale ; one-horse carr., more convenient, 4-5 fr.), the ancient capital of the island, contains a few relics of the Roman period. The richly decorated Cathedral is said to occupy the site of the house of Publius, who when governor of the island accord- ed a hospitable reception to St. Paul (Acts, xxYiii). The terrace commands an extensive prospect. The church of S. Paolo is erected over a grotto which is said to have been occupied by the Apostle during the three months of his stay on the island. The sacristan also shows some catacombs in the vicinity , which are partly of ante-Christian origin. — II Boschetto, an extensive public garden, lies 2 M. to the S. of Citta Vecchia. The island of Gomino is almost uninhabited. Gozzo, well cult- ivated, was the ancient Gaulos, the site of a Phoenician, and after- wards of a Roman town. La Torre de' Giganti, constructed of blocks of rock without mortar, possibly belonged to a Phoenician temple. 42. Excursion to Tunis. Carthage, Comp, the Map. The latter is founded on the latest French ordnance map., which for the sake of uniformity has also been followed in the spelling of the Arabic names in the text. Steamboats to Tunis. 1. From Cagliari (and from Genoa or Leghorn). A steamboat of the Navigazione Generate Italiana leaves Genoa every Thurs- day at 9 p.m. , and Leghorn on Fridays at midnight (another in connec- tion leaves Naples on Saturdays^ passengers for Goletta by this must change boats at Cagliari) ; from Cagliari on Sunday at 7 p.m. crossing di- rect, reaching Tunis on Monday at 11 a.m. and returning on Wednesday ;tt 1 p.m. Fares from Cagliari to Tunis, 52 fr., 35 fr., in gold. — 2. From Palermo a steamer of the above company plies once weekly to Tunis via Trapani, Marsala, diXidi the island of Pantellaria, starting on Tues. at 10 a.m., leaving Marsala at 9 a.m. on Wed., and arriving at Pantellaria on Thurs. afternoon and at Tunis at 2.15 a.m. on Friday, starting on the return at 8 p.m. the same day. The long sea-voyage from Palermo may be avoided by taking the train to Marsala. Fares from Palermo to Tunis, 70 fr., 45 fr., in gold^ from Marsala 48 fr., 30 fr. Return-tickets, see pp. xv, 276. — 3. From Malta a steamer of the same company sails every week via Tripoli. — 4. A steamer of the Compagnie G4n4rale Transatlantique starts 382 Route 42. TUNIS. Arrival. (a) from Marseilles for Tunis direct every Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 4 p.m. (fares 125, 95, 55 fr.); (b) from Malta every Mon. & Frid., returning on Mon. and Thursday; (c) from Algiers every Tues., returning on Sat. at 11 a.m. — A passport is not required but is often exceedingly convenient. Travellers should enquire on the spot with regard to these routes, in case of alterations, and also with regard to quarantine regulations. The small Italian steamers are sometimes delayed an entire day by bad weather. The French steamers are preferable. French Gold is the best kind of money for this excursion (comp. p. 383). The steamboats from Cagliari and from Malta do not touch any- where on their way to Tunis. The steamer from Palermo calls at Trapani and Marsala, and 7 hrs. -after leaving the last reaches Pan- telleria, an island of volcanic origin, 30 M. in circumference, and 58 sq. M. in area, situated more than halfway to the African coast. The extinct crater in the interior of the island rises nearly 2000 ft. above the sea. Numerous hot mineral springs still afford evidence of slumbering volcanic agency. The inhabitants, 7000 in number, speak a peculiar dialect compounded of Arabic and Italian, and carry on a considerable trade in the excellent figs, raisins, capers, and other products of their island. Pantelleria was the Cossyra of antiquity. It was occupied by the Phoenicians at an early period. The chief village (2500 inhah.) lies on the N.W. side of the is- land. The citadel contains an Italian penal colony. The steamer from Palermo doubles the conspicuous Cape Bon, with its lighthouse, and enters the Bay of Tunis. To the E. of the entrance lie the small islands of Djamur (the ^gimures of the an- cients). The steamers from Cagliari and Marseilles pass Cape Fa- rina, theW. horn of the bay, with steep limestone cliffs. Its light- house stands on the sandy Isola dei Cani. The water of the Bay of Tunis is stained with a light-yellow colour by the sediment brought down by the river Mejerda. Farther on, to the right, is Cape Carthage, with Cardinal Lavigerie’s cathedral, and, on the shore, several villas and palaces belonging to ex-ministers of the Bey. The steamers no longer touch at Goletta (French La Goulette ; British Consular Agent, Sig. Ant. M. Cavarra') , the former little harbour of Tunis, united with the capital by railway. Its coolness in summer (thermometer seldom above 90® Fahr. in the shade) and its excellent sea-baths render it a favourite resort at that season. The Palace of the Bey is situated to the right of the canal which connects the bay with the inner creek, El Bahira. On the left of this canal are the Dcuane, the Court of Justice, and the Arsenal. The steamers enter the canal (330 ft. wide, 26-33 ft. deep), completed in 1894, which crosses the shallow bay of El Bahira. We observe the island of Shikly, with the remains of a mediseval castle built by Charles V. The lake is enlivened by countless wild fowl, including flamingoes. In 1 hr. more we reach Tunis. Tunis. — Arrival. The Quay, beside which the steamer lies, is about 3/4 M. from the town. The Douane is close by. Porter for carrying lug- gage from the ship to a cab or hotel-omnibus : hand-bag 10 , trunk 15 c. Cab to the town, 1 fr., luggage 25 c. each package. Hotels. TUNIS. 42. Route. 383 Hotels. Grand Hotel, Avenue de France 13, R. from 31/2, pens. 13 fr., well managed, good cuisine^ Hotel de Paris, R. IV 2 , ddj.dVi^j ^ (br)lh incl. w^ine), pens. 11 '/*2 fr. — Hotel de France, Rue Constantine, vv^ith restaurant, dej. 2, I>. 272, pens. 71/2 fr. ^ Hotel Gigino, Place de la Bourse, well spoken of, pens. 9 fr. 5 Hotel du Louvre, Rue de la Commission, cheaper, but not very clean. — Pension at these does not include break- fast, which is best obtained in a cafe. — Furnished Apartments, not less than 30 fr. per month. Mme. Cappellano'’s Maison MeubUe., Rue hls-Sadikia 1, corner of the Avenue de France, is recommended. Restaurants. Papayanni., Rue de I’Kglise, near the Place de la Bourse, dej. H/ 2 , D. 2 fr. ; Caf& Restaurant de Twms, Avenue de France. Luncheon is usually taken between 12 and 2 p.m., dinner between 0 and 8 p.m. Cafes. Cafi de Tunis., Grand Gafi des Glaci^res., both in the Avenue de France. — The Ca/d de VUnivers., Place de la Bourse, and Cafi du Cercle., Avenue de la Marine, are more of the cafe-chantant order and not suited for ladies. Comp, below. Baths in the Rue d’Allemagne, parallel to the Avenue de la France, on the S., well fitted up 5 bath I'/i, Moorish bath, with massage, etc., 2 V 2 fr. — Arab Bath at the Hammam Bar Bjild., Rue de la Municipalite, near the Kasbah, IV 2 fr. and fee. Steamboat Offices. Comp. G^nirale Transatlantique., Rne Es-Sadikia 3, beside the Bey’s palace 5 Navigazione Generate Italiana., near the railway- station for Goletta. Railway Stations. Gare Italienne (for Goletta, p. 382), a little to the N. of the W. end of the Place de la Residence (p. 384). — Gare Frangaise (for Hammam el-Lif and for Algiers), see p. 384. Post Offices. Franco-Tunisian Post Office, new building in the Rue d’ltalie and Rue d’Espagne, a little to the N.W. of the French station. Italian Post Office (poste restante for all letters from Italy), Rue des Glacieres 22. Carriages. Voitures de Place : per day 15 fr. ; per hr. , in the town 1 fr. 80, outside the town 2 fr. 40 c. 5 per drive , within the town , 1 fr. Voitures de Remise: per day 20 fr. ; per hr., in the town 2 fr. 40 c.., out- side the town 3 fr. — Cheaper carriages may be hired at the Piazza Car- thagene., near Bab Cartagine. Tramways, starting at the W. end of the Avenue de France, near the Porte de France (Bab el-Bahar, p. 385): 1. Along the Marina (10 c.). — 2. Through the Rue Al Djazira. etc., round the S. part of the town to the Place de la Kasbah (15 c.). — 3 Through the Rue des Maltais., etc., round the N. part of the inner town to the Place de la Kasbah (20 c.). — Omni- bus to various points in the suburbs. Guides. None should be engaged but those recommended by the hotel- keepers or consuls or other respectable persons (5-6 fr. per day). Their serv- ices, however, are not indispensable, if Henri le Francois’s plan of the town (75 c.) be purchased. Their presence, moreover, adds 20 per cent to the price of all goods bought in shops by their clients. The wares offered for sale are largely manufactured in France or Constantinople. British Consul-General, W. H. D. Haggard., Esq.; Vice-Consul, Robert A. Profeit., Esq. — Lloyd’s Agent, Lionel M. Levy. Bankers. Bank of Tunis; Compagnie Algb'ienne. — Goods Agent: M. Helft., trustworthy. — Physicians: Dr. A. Kunitz, Rue de la Commis- sion 29. — Photographs at CatalanotWs and Garigne's. — Plans of Tunis and Old Carthage, guide-books, etc., at Demofl,ys\ Avenue de la Marine, and V. Brunts., Rue A 1 Djazira. — Newspapers. Ddpeche Tunisienne., Obser- vateur., French^ Unions.^ Italian. Theatre, with occasional French and Italian performances, usually in summer only. — Amusements. The Cafi Chantant Arabe., Rue de I’Eglise (p, 385), much frequented by Arabs of good position, and the Cafis in the Halfa-ouine Square (p. 386), where native Jewesses appear as dancers, will be found much more interesting than the above-mentioned cafes-chantants with' their European performers in Arab dress. In cafes where an en- trance-fee (1 fr.) is charged , visitors are not expected to do more than order a ‘consommation’ , though a collection is usually made after each dance (small change therefore convenient). 384 Route 42. TUNIS. Government. English Church (St. Augustine) ; service at 10 a.m. Plan for a short visit. Immediately on arriving, the traveller should take a walk about the town; visit one of the numerous coffee-houses in the Halfa-ouine Square (p. 380), where the Muslim may be seen over his cigarette and coffee. — 1st Day: Visit the Bazaar (p. 385), the Ddr el-Bey (p. 385), the old Fort de la Manouhia (p. 386), and the Jewish (Quarter (p. 385). After luncheon vii^it the view-point marked Belvedere on our map (p. 386), to see the sunset. The evening may be spent at one of the cafes in the Halfa-ouine Square. — 2nd Day : Excursion to Carthage.^ see p. 387. — The traveller should consult his consul before undertaking any of the longer excursions, to Zaghouan., Utica., or Forto Farina. Tunis, the capital of the regency of that name, contains upwards of 145,000 inhab., of whom 60-70,000 are Moors, Arabs, Turks, and Berbers, 40,000 native Jews, and 40,000 Europeans of various nationalities, chiefly Italians, Maltese, Greeks, andFrench. The Jews (but not the Jewesses) usually wear the Arab costume. The French language and customs are quite predominant, although the Italian element is the largest among the Europeans. The European quarter, on the side next the harbour, has broad modern streets ; but the rest of the town has narrow and sometimes unpaved streets, which are almost impassable after heavy rain. Strangers may visit all quarters of the town in security. The religious prejudices of the Arabs must of course be respected; and attempts to enter their mosques should on no account be made. The Regency of Tunis was under the suzerainty of the Sultan of Tur- key from 1575 to 1881, when it came under French protection. It occupies an area of 70,000 sq. M., and contains about two million inhabitants. The present Bey, Ali, who was born in 1817, is a descendant of the Hussein family, which has occupied the throne since 1691; he succeeded his brother, Moham- med es-Sadok, on Oct. 27th, 1882. The French General-Resident acts as minister for foreign affairs , and the French commander-in-chief as min- ister of war. Finance, the post-office, education, and public works are also under the control of French officials, assisted by a Mohammedan prime- minister and a secretary of state. Europeans and their dependents are subject to the jurisdiction of French courts, natives to that of the Ferik and the so-called Shaara. The Bey is permitted to maintain a small army of 600 men as a guard of honour, but the real effective force consists of French troops. Money. A new coinage was issued in 1891 on the franc system , the value appearing in French on one side and in Arabic on the other (1, Vs, 1/4 fr. ; 10, 5 c.). The gold and silver coins of the Latin monetary union are also current, except Italian silver coins, which are as useless in Tunis as Italian paper-money. Coins with holes in them should be refused. The principal street in the European quarter is the Avenue ue LA Marine, which begins near the harbour and beyond the Place de la Residence assumes the name of Avenue de France. This line of streets is over t /.2 M. in length and especially towards evening is thronged with passengers (military band on Thurs. and Sun. after- noons). On the S. side of the Place de la Re'sidence is the Palais de la Residence, or residence of the French General-Resident, and on the N. side is the Cathedral of the archbishop. — The Rue de Hol- lande, on the E. side of the Palais de la Residence, and the Rue Es-Sadikia on the W. side, lead in about 5 min. to the French Rail- way Station. In the latter street is the entrance to the fine garden Bazaar. TUNIS. 42. Route, 385 of the Palais. Tlie cross-street behind, to tlie left, is called the Rue d’Autriche, that to the right, the Rue d’Alleniagne ; the second cross- streets are the Rue du Portugal (left) and Rue d’Espagne (right). Ill the last-named street is the Post Office^ and farther on, beyond the Rue d’ltalie, which leads back to the Avenue de la France, is the Market (interesting in the early morning). The tramways mentioned at p. 383 diverge from the W. end of the Avenue de la France to the right (Rue des Maltais) and left (Rue Al-Djazira). Straight on we pass through the Bab el-Bahar (rechristened by the French ‘Porte de France’) to the small Place de la Bourse, which is always thronged. The British Consulate is on the N. side of this square. To the right of the consulate passes the Rue des Glacicres, to the left, the Rue de I’Ancienne Douane, while opposite (S.) begins the Rue de la Commission. The line of the Avenue de France is continued farther to the W. by the busy and interesting streets, the Rue de VEglise (to the left), the Rue de la Kasbah (to the right). Most of the Jewish population dwell to the right of the Rue de la Kasbah; a visit to their quarter is recom- mended on acount of the gaily-coloured costumes of the young wo- men and children. Jewish women of the wealthier classes are also met with in the afternoon in the Avenue de France. To the left of the Rue de la Kasbah is the *Bazaar (PI. 1), consisting of narrow lanes, largely vaulted or covered with boards. These are generally known by the name of SUks (Fr. Souks\ which properly means the various divisions, each of which is generally devoted to the sale of articles of one particular class : in the Suk el-Khbebdjtye (‘throwsters’) are sold fringes and silk wares ; in the Suk el-Attdr'in exquisite essences; in the Suk c^-Rirfca (formerly the slave-market) jewellery of every kind and ancient coins ; and at the two lateral approaches, burnouses, balks, scarfs, etc. Pur- chases should be made without the presence of a guide (p. 383) ; and the various touts should be repulsed with decision. Bargain- ing is always advisable; for the dearer articles about one-fourth of the price first demanded will be taken. Some distance up the Rue de la Kasbah we come to a small square with gardens. Here to the left is the Palace of the Bey (Ddr el-Bey ; adm. 9-11 and 3-5; apply at the door; fee 1 fr.). It contains a national museum and a few rooms with beautifully exe- cuted stucco-work in a style introduced by Moors from Spain. Fine *View from the flat roof over the white houses of the town, the numerous mosques in the Moorish style, with their minarets, and the hills of the neighbourhood. The Bey, accompanied by his min- isters, comes from La Marsa to Tunis every Monday morning to transact government business. About 11 a.m. he quits the palace with his retinue, and after exchanging an official salute with the French officers, in front of the Cercle Militaire, returns to La Marsa in his private train from the Italian station. BA.EDEKER. Italy III. 12th Edition. 25 386 Route 42, MANOUBIA. Excursions Near tlie Dar el-Bey, on the highest ground in the city, rises the Kasbah (PI. 2), an extensive citadel, dating from the time of Emp. Charles V. and now used by the Zouaves as a barrack. Ad- joining it is the new Palais des Services Militaires Fran^aises. A little to the S.W. are the Bah Sidi- Abdallah and the pleasant prom- enades of the so-called Fontana^ or main reservoir of the water- works, where the habits of the people may be studied. The western visitor will find much to interest him in the Halfa- ouine Square^ which is entirely surrounded by Arab cafes, and pre- sents an animated spectacle day and night. Taking the tramway via the Rue des Maltais to the halting-place at the corner of the Rue Sidi Mahres and Rue Halfa-ouine, we are within 5 min. of the Square by the latter street (to the N. or right). — A trip by tram- way (p. 383) or a walk along the streets encircling the inner town, with glimpses into the side-streets to the right and left, is also re- commended. To the N. or right of the ancient Bah Djedid^ on the S. tramway-line via the Rue Al-Djazira, is the interesting Suk of the smiths. A few minutes farther to the N. is the French Quartier General. Excursions. 1. Fort de la Manouhia. We may take the tramway through the Rue Al-Djazira (p. 385) to the Bab Djedid (see above), and there turn to the S.W. Passing the Zouave barracks and through the gate Bab el-Gorjani^ we reach the (^2 1^^-) immediately to the S.W. of Tunis, on which once stood the fort. The top affords a magnifi- cent *View of the town, the El Bahira bay, with Goletta and Car- thage on its farther side, and the sea and the mountains enclosing the gulf in the background. To the N. is the aqueduct mentioned at p. 387. To the S.W., at our feet, lie the salt lake of Sedjoumi and the extensive plain, bounded by the mountains of Zaghouan (p. 389). 2. Another fine point of view (especially at sunset) is the chain of hills (the so-called Belvedere') to the E. of Tunis, about 2^/4 M. from the gate by a good road (omn. from the Place de la Bourse to the Bab el-Kadrah 10 c. ; thence hr.’s walk). — The village of El Ariana, about 2 M. farther on (omnibus from the Place Carthagene hourly; 30 c.), is famous for its roses. 3. About 2 M. to the N.W. of Tunis is situated the *Bardo, an extensive pile of buildings resembling a town in miniature, containing a dilapidated palace of the Bey and a state-prison. The death-sentences pronounced by the Bey in the judgment-hall are immediately carried out with the bow-string in an adjoining square. The throne-room is at present being restored. Admission by cards obtained gratis at the hotels and fee ; railway from the Italian station in V4^^-» hut it is pleasanter to hire a carriage by the hour. In front of the entrance, to the right, is the Musee Aloui^ containing numer- ous Roman mosaics (daily except Mon., 9-11 and 1-5 or 2-6). Adjacent to the Bardo is the chateau of Kasr Said, where the late from Tunis. CARTHAGE. 4‘.>. Route. 387 Bey resided (visitors admitted). — About 3^2^. off is the Tl/anoufta, a group of villas belonging to the Bey and his magnates, with thermal springs, and here also is a Carthaginian Aqueduct^ which is still used in supplying the town with excellent running water from the springs of Zaghouan, about 20 M. to the S. of Tunis. Manouba is a station on the railway to Algiers. 4. For a visit to the Ruins of Carthage an entire day is required (provisions should be taken). We use the Goletta railway, which has two lines, one direct (10 M.), the other (15 M.) via El Aouina^ La Marsa (p. 388), La Malka-St-Louis, Carthage., Khram, Kheredine , and Nouvelle-Goulette. Return - tickets to La Marsa (valid on both lines) should be taken, and the train quitted at La Malka. Photographs and a good plan of the environs of Carthage (50 c.) may be obtained in the mission-station. A guide may be dispensed with. Karthaday or ‘new town’, as the city was originally called, was founded by the Phoenicians (Dido), about B.C. 880, and in the 6th cent. B.C. be- gan to extend its dominion over the W. Mediterranean. In 480 B.C. the Carthaginians came into hostile contact with the Greeks in Sicily, and in 264 B.C. with the Romans. The town was unsuccessfully besieged by Agathocles in 310-307, menaced by the Consul Regulus in the First Punic War in 255, and taken and entirely destroyed by Scipio in 146. Augustus established a Roman colony here, which owing to the incomparable situ- ation of the town and the fertility^ of its environs, soon attained the rank of the third city of the empire, in A.D. 439 it was conquered by Gen- seric and made the capital of the Vandal empire, but in 533 it succumbed to the attacks of Belisarius. The supremacy of the Byzantine emperors was subverted by the Arabs in 647, and the city destroyed. — The outline of the early city is no longer traceable in consequence of its having so fre- quently been destroyed, and the site itself has undergone extensive changes; but the spot where the Queen of the Seas once had her throne is still rich in interest. Near the railway- station of La Malka, to tbe W. of tbe line, are tbe remains of a Roman amphitheatre. We traverse the Arab village of La Malka to the E., built upon ancient remains known as the Great Cistern, 1/2 M. beyond which lies the Byrsa, or castle- hill of ancient Carthage, crowned by a Cathedral in the Oriental style, erected by Cardinal Lavigerie (d. 1892). In the interior of the cathedral are marble columns and paintings. The small Chapelle St. Louis, with its mural paintings (inside), was erected on this hill by Louis Philippe in 1841 to the memory of his ancestor Louis the Saint, who died here in 1270 when engaged in a crusade against Tunis. The museum at the mission-station connected with the chapel contains an interesting collection of marble sculptures, small bronzes, lamps and other terracottas, coins, and gems, arranged and described by the Abbe Delattre, the erudite director of the mission (admission on Sun., Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 2.30-6 p.m.). The garden, which commands a fine view of the harbour of Carthage (see p. 388), contains Phoenician and Roman inscriptions, and reliefs of the Imperial era. There is also a fragment of old wall here, with two niches. This hill was probably the site of the temple of the 25 * 388 Route 42. CARTHAGE. god of healing (the Roman ^sculapius), which rested on a base- ment approached by 60 steps. — The Lazaretto, near the sea, was originally a palace of the Bey, with marble columns. To the S. of the Byrsa was situated the double Harbour of Carthage, though opinions differ as to its exact position. The outer or commer- cial harbour was an oblong quadrangle the inner or naval harbour, the Kothon, was of a circular form. The two were separated by the city-wall, which extending E. from the Byrsa included the neck of land and the naval harbour. In the vicinity of the naval harbour was situated the market- place, connected by three narrow streets, the chief scene of contest during the storming by Scipio, with the castle, which was open towards the town. About M. to the N.E. are the Little Cisterns, seventeen gigantic barrel-vaulted subterranean chambers, of Phoenician origin and half-filled with water, which have been partly restored since 1887. The neighbouring Fort Bordj Djdid commands a fine view. We next proceed to the village of Sidi Bou Said, picturesquely situated 2 M. to the N.E. of St. Louis and lt /4 M. from the cisterns, on the E. extremity of the peninsula of Cape Carthage or Cape Cartagena (380 ft. above the sea), which has preserved the name of the ancient town. To the left of the road, the remains of a cathe- dral of the Vandals were recently laid bare. Refreshments may be obtained at one of the Arab coffee-houses of the village , which has maintained its Oriental character unimpaired by contact with western civilization. It is visited by pilgrims on Fridays. The Light-- house (‘Phare’ on the Map ; fee 1/2 fr.) commands an incomparable **View. The site of ancient Carthage lies at our feet, stretching on the S. almost to the El Bahira bay j beyond we survey the whole Gulf of Tunis from Cape Farina on the W. to Cape Bon on the E., and in the distance are the hills of Boukournin, the Djebel Resas, the mountains of Zaghouan (to the S.), and the wide plain of Tunis. We turn to the N.W. from the lighthouse, and follow the cliffs forming the top of the cape, passing the palace of the Arch- bishop of Tunis, to (^/4 hr.) La Mars a, a station on the line mentioned at p. 387, with the residences of the Bey and of Taieb Bey, the heir - apparent, the country-house of the French min- ister, etc. We may conclude our tour here , or extend it with ad- vantage for 11 / 2-2 hrs. more, by visiting Djebel Khaoui and Kamart. On the summit and slopes of the Djebel Khaoui (345 ft.), still dotted with numerous remains of Punic tombs, lay the necropolis of Carthage. It commands a fine view : to the S. Tunis, to the N.W. the salt lake of Sebkha er-Rouan in the neighbourhood of Utica, and to the E. the open sea. At the foot of the hill to the N. lies Kamart, where the villa of Ben Ayed, charmingly surrounded with palm-trees, may be visited. The neighbourhood of the village, with its shifting sand-hills, affords some idea of the appearance of the desert. Near it, on the Sebkha el-Rouan, are salt-works belong- ing to the government. 5. The excursion to Utica takes a whole day. The ruins of this very ancient Phoenician seaport, which was afterwards the headquarters of a Roman proconsul, where the younger Cato committed suicide (B.C, 46) on CORFU. 43. Tloute. 389 tlie overthrow of Pompey's party in the civil war against Ceesar, are now situated 5 M. from the coast. They do not repay a visit. — The Excur- sion TO Zagiiouan is more interesting. A mail-omnibus starts from the Rue du Portugal in Tunis at 6 a.m. daily and follows the dusty highroad to (8 hrs.) Zaghouan. On the way we pass the tents of nomadic Arabs (Beduins), the Mohamedia^ a residence of former beys, abandoned in 1837, and the imposing remains of the aqueduct of Zaghouan of the reign of Hadrian. Zaghouan {HOtel de France^ tolerable), with about 5000 Inhab., a French garrison, and some Roman ruins, is picturesquely situated amidst groves of olives, oranges, and cypresses, at the foot of the Zaghouan Mts. The Djebel Zaghouan (4530 ft.), the highest summit of the latter, may be ascended in 4-5 hrs. 6. The warm springs and baths of Hammdm Lif (quite uninteresting) lie to the S.E. of Tunis (IOV 2 railway in 1/2 hr. from the French station). To the S. of Hammam Lif (by carriage from Tunis in 2^/2 hrs.) is a lead- mine on the W. slope of the Djebel Resas., dating from the Roman period. — The attractive ascent of the Boukournin (about 2300 ft.) may be made from Hammam Lif; extensive view from the top. 7. When the new railway to Bizerta is open, a visit to that town with its new harbour may be made. The district is fertile. 43. Excursion to Corfu. A Steamboat of the Austrian Lloyd leaves Brindisi for Corfu once a week ; steamers of the Navigazione Oenerale Italiana thrice a week, making the trip in about 12 hrs. (fares 25 fr. 30, 16 fr. 90 c., food extra); and a steamer of a Greek company once a week. There is also regular steam- boat communication between Corfu and Trieste, the Pirseus, Alexandria, etc. Money. The French system has been introduced into Greece : 1 drachma = 100 lepta (centimes). A visit to the charming island of Corfu is recommended even to those who have only two or three days at their disposal and are consequently un- able to extend their excursion to Greece. Brindisi^ see p. 200. On quitting the harbour the steamer at once steers towards the S.E., and the land soon disappears. Next day towards morning the outlines of Albania (Turkey) come in sight, and later the island of Corfu. Othonous^ EHkousi, and the other Othonian Islands are seen to the right. On the left, in Al- bania, rise the lofty peaks of Konto Vouni. The scenery of the wide Strait of Corfu, separating the island from the mainland, is very im- posing. To the right towers Monte S. Salvatore., the loftiest summit in the island. The beautifully situated town of Corfu is at first concealed by the island of Vido. On casting anchor we have on our left the double protuberance of the Fortezza Vecchia and on the right the dark ramparts of the Fortezza Nuova, surmounted by a building of lighter colour ; farther to the right is the suburb of Mandoukio. Corfu. — Arrival. Boat to or .from the steamer 1 fr., with heavy luggage IV 2-2 fr. The boatmen are insolent, there is no tariff, and great confusion prevails, so that the traveller had better allow the commission- naire of the hotel to settle with the boatmen and attend to the luggage, for which a charge of 2-2V2 fr. is made in the bill. The custom-house examination is quickly over. Hotels. *H6tel St. Georges, frequented by the English ; *H6tel d’ANGLETERRE & Belle Venise ; these two are of the first class , with baths; the back-windows overlook the Esplanade; R. from 3, B. 1, ddj. 3 390 Route 43. CORFU. History. D. 41 / 2 , pension 9-12, for a long stay 8-10 fr., bottle of English or Vienna beer 2, Corfu wine (sweet) 1 , Ithaca wine 2 V 2 fr. — Hotel d^'Oeient, with trattoria, prettily situated on the esplanade; Pension Julie, pens. 7-8 fr., well spoken of, adapted for a stay of some time. Cafes. The principal cafds are in the Esplanade, at the beginning of the avenue mentioned at p. 391; cup of coffee prepared in the Turkish manner 15 c. — Beer in the hotels and at Verviziotis''s^ in the Nikephoros Street, near the Esplanade; Vienna beer IY 2 , native V 2 fr. per bottle. British Consul, Edw. W. Bonham^ Esq.; Vice-Consul, Otho Alexander Esq. — United States Consular Agent, C. E. Hancock., Esq. — Lloyd’s Agent, S. A. Micrulachi. Post Office, adjoining the Sanita, at the entrance to the town from the sea. Carriages obtained at the hotels, 5 fr. per drive in the town or en- virons ; for longer excursions, see p, 392. Valets-de-Place, 5 fr. per day, may be dispensed with. Theatre. Italian opera in winter. — English Church. Chaplain, Rev. J. S. Dawes., D. D. Climate. In the latter half of March.^ in April, and May the climate of Corfu is usually charming, and a residence here at that season, amid its luxuriant vegetation, is delightful. The temperature is also mild and equable during October and the beginning of November, but June, July, and August are very hot, and in winter heavy rains and sudden changes of temperature are of frequent occurrence. As a winter-residence for inva- lids, particularly those with pulmonary complaints , Corfu therefore com- pares unfavourably with the best-known health-resorts of Italy. Corfu, the capital of the island of the same name and of a nomarchy or province including the islands of Paxos , Antipaxos, and Leukas , and the seat of archbishops of the Greek and Roman Catholic cliurches, is one of the most prosperous towns in modern Greece. With its suburbs of Kastrades or Garitza and MandouMo, it contains 28,400 inhab., among whom are 4000 Roman Catholics and 2700 Jews. The spacious harbour is enlivened by an active trade, consisting chiefly in the export of olive-oil and the import of Russian grain and English manufactures. The fortifications constructed by the Venetians, the Fortezza Vecchia to the E. of the town and the Fortezza Nuova on the N. W., were once of great strength, but they were blown up by the English before their departure in 1864, and are now unimportant. As the town was formerly enclosed by a wall, the busy streets are very narrow and the houses often four or five stories high. Corfu (Gr. KiQ’AVQd, Lat. Corcyra'), the second, but most important of the Ionian Islands, was supposed by the ancients to be Scheria, the land of the Phseaci and of their king Alcinous. Colonised from Corinth at an early period (B.C. 734), its power increased so greatly as to become dan- gerous to its mother-city; and this was one of the chief causes of the Peloponnesian War. The name of Corfu came into use in the middle ages and was at first confined to the rocky heights enclosed in the old fortifi- cations ; it seems to be a corruption of ‘Koryphous’. From 1386 to 1797 the island was under Venetian supremacy; from 1815 to 1864 it was, with the other Ionian Islands , under the protection of England and the seat of government, after which it was ceded to the kingdom of Greece. On disembarking we cross the court of the Dogana , pass the Hotel de Constantinople on the left, and follow the new street called Suite Mura, which skirts the N. side of the town, affording numerous fine views, and reaches the Esplanade near the Royal Fortezza Vecchia, CORFU. 43. Route. 391 Palace. Or we may proceed from the harbour to the left through the principal street (‘Rue Nicdphore’) to the Esplanade in 5 minutes. The Esplanade (La Spianata) is an extensive open space be- tween the town and the old fortifications. It is traversed by an avenue with double rows of trees , forming a prolongation of the main street. On the W. side it is bounded by a row of handsome houses with arcades on the groundfloor, among which are the two principal hotels. On the N. side rises the — Boyal Palace , a three-storied edifice with two wings , in grey Maltese stone, erected for the British Lord High Commissioner. A handsome marble staircase ascends to the first floor, where the vestibule contains an antique lion couchant. The throne-room is adorned with portraits of British sovereigns, and the council-cham- ber of the former Ionian Senate contains portraits of the presidents (visitors generally admitted on application ; fee 1 fr.). — In front of the palace is a bronze Statue of Sir Frederick Adam, who con- ferred numerous benefits on the island during his tenure of office as Lord High Commissioner (1823-32). To the S. of the Esplanade are a small Circular Temple and an Obelisk, also raised in honour of English Commissioners. At the end of the avenue leading to the fortress, on the left, is a monument commemorating the gallant defence of Corfu against the Turks by the Venetian general Count von der Schulenburg in 1716. We now pass the sentinels, cross the bridge over the wide and deep moat, and reach the — *Fortezza Vecchia, the buildings of which are now used only for barracks and a military hospital. The second gateway leads to the Commandant’s Residence, where we obtain verbal permission to inspect the works in the office (frourarchfon) in the rear of the building. We then cross a drawbridge farther up, traverse a long vaulted passage, and proceed straight on to the end of it. The ram- parts are overgrown with vegetation. The platform on the W. side (230 ft.), reached by a few steps, commands a superb **View of the town of Corfu, and of the whole island from Monte Salvatore and Capo Cassopo on the N. to Capo Bianco on the S. Opposite to us lies the Turkish coast of Epirus with its lofty mountains. The custodian, who speaks Italian, lends a telescope to the visitor (25 c.). At the S. end of the Esplanade is the Gymnasium (last house to the right), with a fine flight of steps. On the open space in front a marble Statue of Kapodistrias was erected in 1887. A broad street descends hence to the Boulevard of the Empress Eliza- beth, formerly the Strada Marina, which is a favourite evening promenade of the Corfiotes. In 6-8 min. we reach the entrance of the suburb of Kastrades or Oaritza , where the dismantled Fort S. Salvador rises on the right. Near the E. base of the dilapidated rampart , about 200 paces from the Boulevard of the Empress Eli- 392 Route 43, CORFU. Monrep 08 , zabeth, is the Tomb of Mbnbcratbs, a low circular structure dating from the 6tb or 7th cent. B.C. The Boulevard of the Empress Elizabeth runs hence to the left along the coast, and ends near the remains of an old wind-mill. We follow the principal street towards the S. , passing a church and a red house. In 5 min. we ascend by a road diverging to the right, opposite the circular apse of the old church of S. Corcyra. The gate on the left is the entrance to the royal villa of '^'Monrepos ( Villa Reale), the extensive gardens of which command beautiful views of the town and fortress of Corfu (open free on Thurs. and Sun. after- noons ; on other days, fee 1 / 2 “^ f^.). The above-mentioned road, passing the entrance to the Villa, leads to the village of Analipsis. Near the village a path diverges to the left and leads through a grove of olives towards the sea. After about 200 paces we reach, a little to the right, the interesting and curious substructures of an Ancient Temple discovered in 1822. This ruin lies about 100 ft. above the sea in a narrow ravine called Kardaki, a name also extended to the surrounding district. The principal street follows the W. slope of the hilly peninsula, which extends to the S. between the Lake of Kalikidpoulo and the sea. This was probably the site of the ancient town , the principal commercial harbour of which was formed by the Bay of Kastrades, while the lake of Kalikiopoulo, now silted up, seems to have been the ancient Hyllaean Harbour, used as a station for vessels of war. The street, which is much frequented on fine evenings , is flanked by rose and orange gardens, and farther on by beautiful olive groves. It ends , about 2 M. from the Esplanade , in a circular space, named the Canone, or One-gun Battery, commanding a beautiful *View of the E. coast. Opposite the entrance to the old Hyllsean harbour lies the islet of Pondikonisi (mouse-island), said to be the Pheeacian ship , which brought Ulysses to Ithaca and was afterwards converted into stone by Poseidon. The mouth of a brook on the S.W. side of Lake Kalikiopoulo, which is called Kressida, is pointed out as the place where Ulysses was cast ashore and met the Princess Nausicaa. Several charming ^Excursions may be made from the capital into the interior of the island, which, thanks to the English admin- istration, is almost everywhere traversed by good carriage-roads. To THB South. — To Oasturi and Benizza, about 11 M., by carriage (15 fr.) in 2^/2 itrs. The road skirts the lake of Kalikiopoulo and then ascends in windings to ( 91/2 M.) Gasturi, where in a gorge is an ancient well under a large plane-tree. Farther on, beyond the small Bella Vienna Restaurant, a little to the left, lies the Em- press of Austria’s Villa Achilleion (adm. on application to the Aus- trian consul at Corfu). Fine view from the church above. Thence we descend in windings to (1^/4 M.) Benizza, noted for its oranges. Near the priest’s house are the well-preserved remains of a Roman villa. Boat hence to Kastrades, 5 fr. Close by is the source used for the aqueduct of Corfu. — To the Monte S, Deca (1860 ft.), Greek Hagi Deka, by carriage (15 fr. ; there and back 6 hrs.). We drive Excursions. CORFU. 43. Route, 393 to the village of the same name at the foot of the hill, and then ascend with a guide to the top in 1 hour. Splendid panorama, especially of the Albanian coast. We descend by a rough goat-path to (1 hr.) Epano-Garouna and thence walk to (74^^*) Teddoro or Hagios Theddoros^ where the carriage should be ordered to meet us (to Corfu a drive of 1^2 To THE West. — To Pelleka (there and back in 31 / 2 - 4 : hrs., carr. 12 fr.) and the W. coast of the island. On leaving the carr- iage we engage a boy to guide us to the top of the hill (890 ft.), whence an admirable view is enjoyed, very beautiful towards sunset. To THE North. — To Oovino, with the remains of a Venetian arsenal, situated on a beautiful bay. We go via Alipoii and return by Potamh, an exquisite drive of 21/2-3 hrs. (carr. 8-10 fr.). To Palaeokastrizza, a whole day, carriage 25 fr., a very pleasant road with beautiful views. About halfway to Palaeokastrizza, near the Bridge of Pheleka^ the road to the N. part of the island diverges from that leading to Govino (see above), and crosses the highest range of hills in the island by the Pass of S. Pantaleone. To the right towers the Monte S. Salvatore.^ Greek Pantokrator (2990 ft. ; ascent from Olyphb, the landing-station for the high-lying village of Signes). The monastery of Palaeokastrizza lies on a rock in a bay on the W. side of the island, and commands an admirable view of the coast and the beautiful blue sea. For a more detailed account of Corfu, see Baedeker’’ s Handbook to Greece. List of the most important Artists mentioned in the Handbook , with a note of the schools to which they belong. Abbreviations : A. = architect , P. = painter, S. = sculptor ; ca. = circa, about; B. = Bolognese, Flor. = Florentine, Ferr. = Ferrarese, Mess. = Messinese, Neap. = Neapolitan, Rom. = Roman, etc. The Arabic numerals enclosed within brackets refer to the art-notices throughout the Handbook, the Roman figures to the Introduction. Mtion^ Greek P., 2nd cent. A. D. — (xxxviii). Ain&molo^ Vincenzo di Pavia ( Vine. Ro- mano)., Palerm. P., d. 1540. — (244). Alibrando^ Girol.^ Mess. P., 1470-1524. Allegri^ Ant.^ see Correggio. Amerighi.^ see Caravaggio., Mich. Angelico da Fiesole. Fra Giov.. Flor. P., 1387-1455. Apelles, Greek P., 356-308 B. C. — (xxxvii). Apollodorus , Greek P., end of 5th cent. B. C. — (xxxvi). Apollonius of Tralles, Greek S., brother of Tauriscus. — (xxxiv). Aquila, Silvestro delV, S., 15th cent. — , Pompeo , d’, P., second half of 16th cent. Aristides, Greek P., 370-330 B. C. — (xxxvii). Arnolfo del (di) Cambio, see Cambio. Arpino, Cavalier e d' (Gius. Cesari), Rom. P., ca. 1560-1640. — (188). Auria , Dom. d\ Neap. S., pupil of Giov. da Nola, d. 1585. Baboccio, Ant., Neap. S., A., 1351- ca. 1415. Barbieri, see Guercino. Barisano , bronze -founder, end of 12th cent. Bartolommeo della Porta, Fra, Flor. P., 1475-1517. Bassano, Jacopo (da Ponte), Ven. P., 1510-92. — , Leandro (da Ponte), son of Ja- copo, Ven. P., 1558-1623. Bazzi, Giov. Ant., see Sodoma. Bellini, Gentile, brother of Giovanni, Ven. P., 1421-1507. — , Giovanni, Ven. P., 1426-1516. Belotti, Bern., see Canaletto. Beltraffio, see Boltraffio. Bernardi, Giov., da Castelbolognese, Bol. goldsmith, d. 1554. Bernini, Giov. Lorenzo, Rom. A., S., 1589-1680. Bigordi, see Ghirlandajo. Bol, Ferd., Dutch P., 1611-81. Boltraffio (Beltraffio), Giov. Ant., Mil. P., pupil of Leonardo da Vinci, 1467-1516. Bonannus, Pisan A., S., end of 12th cent. Bonito, Nice., Rom. P., 18th cent. Bonvicino, see Moretto. Botticelli, Aless. or Sandro, Flor. P., 1446-1510. Bronzino, Angelo, Flor. P., 1502-72. Brueghel, Pieter, the Elder, Flemish P., 1520-69. Buonarroti, see Michael Angelo. Buono (Buoni), Silvestro, Neap. P., d. 1480. Calabrese, il (Matteo Preti), Neap. P., 1613-99. Calidri, Paolo, see Veronese. Camaino, Tino da, Sienese S., d. 1339. Cambiaso,Luca, (Genovese P., 1527-85, Cambio, Arnolfo del (di), Flor. A., S., 1240-1311. — (xlvii). Camilliani (Camillani), Flor. S., end of 16th cent. Camuccini, Vine., Rom. P., 1773-1844. Camulio,Bartol. da, Sicil.P., 14th cent. Canaletto (Bern. Belotti), Ven. P., 1724-80. Canova, Antonio, S., 1757-1832. Cappuccino Genovese, see Strozzi. Caracci, see Carracci. Caracdolo, Giov. Batt. (sum. Bat- tistello). Neap. P., d. 1641. — (xlviii). Caravaggio, Michael Angelo AmeHghi da, Lomb. and Rom. P., 1569-1609. — , Polidbro Caldara da, Rom. P., 1495 1543. — (xlviii). Carracci, Annibale, Bol. P., 1560- 1609. — , Lodovico, Bol. P., 1555-1619. LIST OF ARTISTS. 395 Cavallini^ Pietro^ Rom. P., 14th cent. — (xlvii). Celehrano^ Franc. ^ Neap. S., 18th cent. Cellini., Benvenuto., Flor. S. and gold- smith, 1500-72. Ciccione . Andrea. Neap. A., S., d. 1457. Claude le Lorrain (QelUe)., French P., 1600-82. Conca., Seb.y Neap. P., 1679-1764. Conradini ( Corrad.)., Ant.., S., d. 1752. Corenzio., Belisario., P., 1558-1643. — (xlviii). Correggio (Antonio Allegri da ). Parm. P., 1494?-1534. Corso., Vine.., Neap. P., d. 1545. Cosmati , Rom. family of stone- mosaicists, 13th cent. Cranach. Luc.. German P., 1472- 1553. Credi., Lorenzo Flor. P., 1459-1537. Crescenzio., Ant.., Sicil. P., first half of 15th cent. — (244). Criscuolo. Giov. Fil.. Neap. P., 1495- 1584. Critios., Greek S., 5th cent. B. C. — (xxxi). Crivelli., Carlo., Ven. P., ca. 1468-93. Bold., Carlo., Flor. P., 1616-86. Domenichino (Domenico Zampieri)., Bol. P., A., 1581-1641. — (xlviii). Donatello (Donato di Niccolb di Betti Bardi), Flor. S., 1386-1466. Donzello., Hero and Ippol., Neap. P., alleged pupils of Zingaro, 15th cent. — (xlvii). Diirer., Albr.., German P., 1471-1528. Dyck., Ant. van., Flem. P., 1599-1641. Euphranor., Greek S., P., 375-335 B. C. — (xxxvii). Eyck., Hubert van., Flemish P., born ca. 1360-70, d. ca. 1426. — , Jan van. Flemish P., born ca. 1381-95, d. 1440. Fabriano. Gentile da. TJmbr. P., 1370-1450. Falcone., Aniello., Neap. P., 1600-1665. — (xlviii). Fansaga., Cosimo., P., S., A., 1591-1678. Fiesole., Fra Giovanni Angelico da., see Angelico. Finoglia. Paolo Dom.. Neap. P., d. 1656. Fiore., Agnello del.. Neap. S., d. ca. 1500. — , Colantonio del (Nice. Tomasi)., P., 14th cent. Fontana., Dom.., Rom. A., 1543-1307. Fontana., Lavinia., Bol. P., 1552-1602. Franco., Agnolo., Neap. P., d. ca. 1445. Fuccio., A., first half of 13th cent. Fuga., Fernando., Rom. A., 1699-1780. Gabriele d'' Agnolo., Neap. A., ca. 1496. Gaetano., Scipione ., Neap. P., 16th cent. Gagini (Gaggini)., Ant.., Sicil. S., born 1480, and sons. — (244). Gargiulo., Dom.., sum. Micco Epadaro., Neap. P., 1612-79. Garofalo ( Benvenuto Tisio) . Ferr. P., 1481-1559. Ghirlandajo. Dom. (Dom. Bigordi)^ Flor. P., 1449-94. Giordano., Luca., sum. Fa Presto., Neap. P., ca. 1632-1705. — (xlviii). Giotto (di Bondone)., Flor. P., A., S., 1276-1337. — (xlvii). Guercino., il (Giov. Franc. Barbieri)., Bol. P., 1590-1666. Hackert, Phil., German P., 1737-1807. Hayez, Franc., Ital. P., born 1791. Kaufmann, Maria Angelica, German P., 1741-1807. Kornelissen, Jacob, Dutch P., 15-16th. cent. — (265). Lama, Gian Bernardo, Neap. P., 1508-79. Lanfranco, Giov., Lomb. and Rom. P., 1580?-1647. Leonardo da Vinci, P., S., A., 1452- 1519. Jjotto, Lorenzo, Ven. P., 14807-1554? Lucas van Leyden (Luca d''Olanda) Dutch P., 1494-1533. Luini, Bernardino, Mil. P., 1470?- 1530?. Maglione , Flor. P., S., second half of 13th cent. Majano , Benedetto da, Flor. A., S., 1442-97. — , Giuliano da, Flor. A., 1432-90. Mantegna, Andrea, Pad. P., 1431-1506. Masuccio the Elder, Neap. A., S., ca. 1230-1305. — , the Younger, Neap. A., S., ca. 1291-1388. Mazzoni, Guido (il Modanino), Mod. S., d. 1518. Mazzuola, Fil., Parm. P., d. 1505. — , Franc., see Parmigianino. Mengs, Ant. Raphael, P., 1728-79. Merliano, Giov., see Nola, Giov. da. Messina, Antonello da, Sicil. P., b. after 1410, d. ca. 1493. — (244). Michael Angelo Buonarroti, A., S., P., 1475-1564. Michelozzo, Flor. A., S., 1391-1472. Mignard, Herre, French P., 1612-95. Modanino, see Mazzoni. Monrealese, see Novelli, Metro, Montorsoli, Fra Giov. Ang., Flor. S., ca. 1506-63. Moretto da Brescia (Alessandro Bon- vicini or Bonvicino), Ven. P., 1498- 1555. 396 LIST OF ARTISTS. Murano^ Bartol, da^ see Vivarini. Nesiotes^ Greek S., 5th cent. B. C. — (xxxi). Nicias , Greek P., ca. 348-308 B. C. — (xxxvii). Nicomachus ^ Greek P., about 400 B. C. — (xxxvii). Nola. Giov. da (Giov. Merliano). Neap. S., 1478-1559. Novelli^ Pietro (il Monrealese)^ Sicil. P., 1603-47. — (244). Palma Vecchio. Giac.. Ven. P., 1480- 1628. Pannini. Giov. Paolo. Rom. P., 1695- 1768. Papa., Simone., the Elder., Neap. P., 15th cent. — (xlvii). — , Sim., the Younger. Neap. P., f506-67. Parmeggiano or Parmigianino (Francesco Mazzuola). Parm. P., 1503-40. Parrhasius ., Greek P., end of 5th cent. B. C. — (xxxvi). Pasiteles., Greco-Rom. S., 72-48 B. C. — (xxxiv). Pausias., Greek P., 4th cent. B. C. — (xxxvii). Pauson ., Greek P., about 400 B.C. (xxxi). Perugino., Pietro (Pietro Vannucci)., Umbr. P., 1446-1524. Phidias, Greek S., 500-430 B. C. Pinturicchio, Bern., Umbr. P., 1454- 1513. Piomho, Sebast. del, see Sebastiano. Pippi, see Romano. Pisano, Giov., Pis. A., S., son of Niccolo, d. 1320. — , Niccola(b), Pis. A., S., d. 1278. Polidbro, see Caravaggio. Polycletus, Greek S., 5th cent. B. C. — (xxxii). Polygnotus, Greek P., 480-30 B. C. — — (xxxv). Pontormo, Jac. (Carrucc^^) da, Flor. P., 1494-1557. Porta, Bart, della, see Bartolommeo. — , Guglielmo della, Lomb. S., d. 1577. Praxiteles, Greek S., about 364 B. C. Prete Genovese, see Strozzi. Preti, Matteo, see Calabrese. Puligo, Dom., Flor. P., 1475-1527. Queirolo, Ant., S., 18th cent. Raphael Santi da Urbino, P., A., 1483-1520. Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn, Dutch P., 1607-69. Reni, Guido, Bol. P., 1574-1642. Ribera, see Spagnoletto. Robusti, see Tintoretto. Romanelli, Giov. Franc., P., ca. 1610- 62. Romano, Giulio (G. Pippi). Rom. P., A., 1492-1546. Rosa, Salvator, Neap. P., 1615-73. — (xlviii). RosselUno, Ant., Flor. S., A., b. 1427, d. ca. 1478. Rubens, Petrus Paulus, Flemish P., 1577-1640. Ruzulone, Pietro, Sicil. P., 15th cent. - (244). Sabattini, Andr., see Salerno, Andr. da. Salerno, Andrea da (Andr. Sabattini), Neap. P., follower of Raphael, 1480-1545. — (xlviii). Saliba, Antonello da, Sicil. P., 15th cent. — (244). Sammartino, Gius., Neap. S., 1728- 1800. Sanctis, Giac. de. Neap. A., d. 1543. Sangallo, Francesco da, son of Giu- liano da S., Flor. S., 1497-1575. Santacroce, Girol. (da), Ven. P., ca. 1520-49. Santafede, Fabrizio, Neap. P., 1560- 1634. — , Francesco, Neap. P., father of Fabrizio, 16th cent. Sarto, Andrea del, Flor. P., 1487-1531. Sassoferrato (Giov. Batt. Salvi), Rom. P., 1605-85. Schidone, Bart., Mod. P., d. 1615. Scilla, Agost., Sicil. P., 1639-1700. Sebastiano del Piombo , Ven. and Rom. P., 1485-1547. Serpotta, Giacomo, Sicil. S., 1655- 1732. — (244). Sesto, Cesar e da. Mil. P., pupil of Leonardo da Vinci , d. after 1524. Siciliano, Giov. Bernardino, Neap. P., S., 1606-87. Siena, Marco da, P., A., second half of 16th cent. — , Matteo da, P., middle of 16th cent. Simone di Martino (Sim. Martini), Sien. P., 1283-1344. — (xlvii). Sddoma, il (Giov. Ant. Bazzi), Sien. and Lomb. P., ca. 1473-1549. Solario, Ant., see Zingaro. Solimena, Franc, (sum. Abbate Ciccio) Neap. P., 1657-1747. Spada, Lionello, Bol. P., 1556-1622. Spagnoletto (Gius. Ribera), Span.- Neap. P., 1588-1656. — (xlviii). Stanzioni, Massimo, Neap. P., 1585- 1656. — (xlviii). Stefani, Pietro degli. Neap. S., P., b. 12^, d. after 1318. — , Tommaso degli, Neap. P., 1231- 1310. Strozzi, Bernardo (il Cappuccino or il Prete Genovese), Genove.se P., 1581-1644. LIST OF AUTISTS. 397 T’awrwcws of Tralles, Greek S., brother of Apollonius. — (xxxiv). Thortoaldsen. Bertel. Danish S., 1770- 1844. Timanthes^ Greek P., about 400 B. C. — (xxxvii). Timomachus., Greek P., about 300B. C. — (xxxviii). Tintoretto, il (Jac. Rohusti). Ven. P., 1518-94. Tm, Benven..^ see Garofalo. Titian (Tiziano Vecellio da Cadore). Ven. P., 1477-1575 Traversa ( Charles Frang. de la Tra- verse)^ French P., d. 1778. Faccaro, Andrea.^ Neap. P., 1598-1670. Vannucci., Pietro^ see Perugino. Vanvitelli., Luigi., A., 1700-73. Vasari., Qiorgio ., Flor. P., A., and writer on art, 1512-74. Vecellio., Tiziano., see Titian, Velazquez (Diego V. de Silva). Span. P., 1599-1660. Venusti., Marcello., P., pupil of Michael Angelo, d. ca. 1570. Veronese. Paolo (P. Caliari) . Ven. P., 1528-88. Vigilia., Tommasodi. Sicil. P., pupil of Ant. Crescenzio, 15th cent. — (244). Vincenzo di Pavia., see Ainemolo. Vinci., Leonardo da., see Leonardo. Vivarini., Alvise (or Luigi)., Ven. P., ca. 1464-1503. — , Bart. (Bart, da Murano)., Ven. P., ca. 1450-99. Zampieri., see Domenichino. Zeuxis., Greek P., 4th cent. B. C. — (xxxvi). Zingaro., lo (Ant. Solario)., Neap. P., ca. 1382-1455. — (xlvii). INDEX hbacaenum 311. Abbadiazza 320. Abbasanta 367. Abella 173. Abellinum 173. Abruzzi, the 175. 176. Acciano 181. Acerenza 210. 195. Acerra 11. Acerrae 11. Acesines 330. Acherontia 195. 210. Acherusian Lake 102. Aci Gastello 331. Aci, Isola d’ 331. Acireale 331. Aciris 215. Acithis 285. Acquafredda 373. Acquasanta 267. Acquaviva delle Font! 200 . — Platani 292. Acquedolce 310. Aci'ae 233. 306. Acragas 233. 293. — , river 294. Acri 219. Acrocoro della Torre 307. Aderno 334. iEgadian Islands 226. 285. ^gimures 382. ^naria 105. jEolian Islands 322. AEsernia 185. .Etna, Mount 340. 228. Mtna 334. S. Agapito 7. S. Agata, near Sorrento 149. — de’ Goti 204. — del Militello 310. Agathyrnum 232. Ager Falernus 18. Agerola 144. Agira 232. 301. Agnano 92. — , Lago d’ 92. S. Agnello 145. Agno, L’ 11. Agnone 348. Agri, river 208. 215. Agrigentum 293. 294. Agropoli 220. Agyrium 232. 301. Aielli 183. Alabon 348. Alaesa 309. Alanno 186. Alaro 217. Alatri 3. Alba Fucentia 182. Albanella 164. Albano 11. — di Lucania 210. Albe 182. Alberi 150. Alburno, Mte. 208. Alburnus 203. Alcamo 277. Alcantara 330. Alcantera, river 330. 332. 348. Alento, river 190. Ales 368. Alessano 203. S. Alessio, Capo 325. Alesus 309. Aletrium 2. 3. Alezio 203. S. Alfio 330. Alghero 378. All 325. Alia 292. Alicata 303. Alicuri 324. Alimena 291. Alipoii 393. Altamura 195. 210. Altarello di Baida 272. Altavilla 174. 290. Altilia 191. Aluntium 232. 310. Amalfi 167. Amantea 220. Amantia 220. Amaro, Monte 184. 190. Amaseno, river 13. Amenanus, river 339. Amendola 192. Amendolara 215. Amendolea 218. Amestratus 309. Amiternum 179. Amorosi 204. Amyclae 15. Anacapri 155. Anagni 2. Anagnia 2. Analipsis 392. Anapus, river 362. Anazzo 201. Ancona 176. S. Andrea 217. 375. — , Monte 16. Andria 197. Anela 366. S. Angelo, Castel 177. — , Monastery 172. — , — , Lipari 322. 323. — , — , the Little 150. — , — , near Manfredonia 193. — . — , near Sorrento 143. i42. — Mosciano 189. — Piraino 310. — in Formis 9. Angri 158. SS. Annunziata (Ravello) 171. Antas, Temple of 373. Antenna, Pizzo 227. 308. Antennamare 320. Antignano 89. S. Antimo 204. Antinum 186. S. Antioco 374. S. Antonio 331. Antrodoco 177. Antrosano 182. Antullo, Pozzo d’ 3. Anversa 184. Anxa 203. Anxanum 190. Anxur 13. Aouina, El 387. Apennines, the 175. 176. Apice 207. Apollonia 309. INDEX. 399 Appula 200. Apricena 191. Aqua Cornelia 290. Aquae Cutiliae 177. Aquila 177. Aquino 4. Aquinum 4. Aragona 292. Aranci, Golfo 36G. Arbore 150. Arborea 368. S. Arcangelo 160. Arce 188. Arcbi-Reggio 222. Arco, the 145. Arco Felice 103. 97. — Natural e 155. Ardara 376. Ardore 218. Arenella 324. Ariana, El 386. Ariano di Puglia 207. Arienzo 10. — , Ravine of 171. Aritzo 368. 376. Armi, Capo dell’ 218. — , Monte deir 209. Armstrong, Cantiere 97. Arpaia 11. Arpi 192. Arpinas^ Insula 187. Arpino 188- Arpinum 188. Arsoli 181. Artemisio, Monte 11. Artena 11. Artesino, Monte 300. Arx Volscorum 193. Arzana 375. Asaro 232. Ascensione, Monte dell’ 189. Ascoli Piceno 189. — , Porto d’ 189. — Satriano 194. Asculum Picenum 189. Asinara 378. Asinarus 306. Asinello 285. Aso, brook 189. Aspra 275. A-spromonte, Mt. 218. 223. 227. Assaro 301. Assemini 369. Assergi 180. Assorus 232. 301. Astore, Monte 221. Astroni 92. Atella 204. 210. Atena 208. Aterno, river 177. 179.189. Alina 208. Atrani 167. — , Valley of 169. Atri 190. Atrio del Cavallo 113. Atripalda 173. Aufidus 195. Augusta 348. 228. Auletta 208. Auricarre 200. Ausculum Apulum 194. Avella 173. Avellino 173. Avernus. Lacus 97. Aversa 204. Avezzano 182. Avola 306. Bacoli 99. Badia di S. Spirito 184. 299. Badolato 217. Bagaria or Bagberia 274. Bagnara 222. Bagni di Nerone 98. Bagno d’Ischia 106. — del Purgatorio 118. — della Regina Gio- vanna 147. Bagnoli 93. Bagnolo del Salento 203. Babira, El 382. Baiae 98. Baiano 173. Baida 272. Baia 98. Balensul 306. Balestrate 277. Balsorano 187. Balvano 209. Balzo di Trifoglietto 346. Bambina 283. Bantia 195. Banzi, Abbadia de’ 195. Baragiano 209. Baranica 150. Barano 107. Baranello 191. Barbagia, la 376. Barbaro, Monte 279. Barbarossa, Gastello di 155. Barcellona 311. S. Bardiglio 372. Bar do, tbe 386. Bari 198. 375. — , Terra di 176. Barile 195. Barium 198. Barletta 196. Baronisi 163. Barra, La 111. Barrafranca 302. Barrali 375. S. Bartolommeo, river 211 . Basento, river 210. Basilicata, tbe 176. 209. S. Basilio 200. — Pisticci 215. Basiluzzo 324. Batinus 190. Battaglia 200. Battipaglia 163. Baucina 289. Bauladu 367. Bauli.^ Villa 99. Baunei 375. Bauso 312. Bern 181. Belice, river 288. 289. Bella 209. Bellante 189. Belmonte, in Calabria 220 . — , near Palermo 273. Belpasso 334. Belvedere (near Castel- lammare) 144. — (near Syracuse) 359. 307. Belvi 376. S. Benedetto 183. 189. Benetutti 366. Benevento 205. Beneventum 205. Benizza 392. Bercbidda 366. Bernalda 210. S. Biagio, river 294. Biancavilla 334. Bianconuovo 218. Bicocca 302. 347. Bifarera 289. Biferno, river 191. Bilice, Valley of tbe 298. Billiemi, Monti 276. Birgi, river 285. Birori 367. Bisacquino 289. Biscari 304. Bisceglie 198. Bisignano 219. Bitetto 200. Bitonto 197. Bitti 367. Bizerta 389. Blue Grotto 157. Boccadifalco 272. Boccetta, torrent 315. Boeo, Capo 226. 284. Boiano 185. Bolognetta Marineo 289. Bolotana 367. Bon, Cape 226. 382. Bonea Grotto 161. 400 INDEX. Bonefro 191. Bonifato, Monte 277. Bono 366. Bonorva 366. Borello 344. 334. Borgo 177. Borore 367. Bortigali 367. Bosa 367. Bosco d’Acovia 10. — di Calatafimi 279. — di Coronia 310. — di Ficuzza 229. — deir Umbra 193. — di Villaflor 368. Boscoreale 10.. Boscotrecase 118. Botricello 216, Botte, La 14. Bottida 366. Boukournin 389. Bou-Said 388. Bova 218. Bovalino 218. Bove, Monte 181. — , Valle del 346. Bovianum Undecimano- rum 185. Bovino 207. Bradano, the 211. Brancaccio 273. Brancaleone 218. Brentesion 201. Briatico 221. Brienza 203. Brindisi 201. — Montagna 210. Brolo, Fiumara 310. Bronte 333. Brucato 290. Brucoli 348. Bruncu Spina, Punta 376. Brundisium 201. Brusciano 173. Buccino 209. Budduso 366. Buffaloria 215. Buggeru 363. Bugnara 184. Bultei 366. Buonalbergo 207. Buonfornello 307. Buonpietro 291. Buraco, Monte 289. Burgio 289. Burgos 366. Busambra 289. Buscemi 306. Busento, river 219. Bussi 186. Butera 303. Buttigliara 356. Cabras 368. Caccamo 291. Cacyparis 306. Cagliari 369. Stagno di 369. 370. Caianello 7. Caiazzo 10. Caieta 17. Cairo, Monte 6. Calabria 176. Calabritto !^8. Calacte 310. Calascibetta 300. Calasetta 374. 375. Calatabiano 330. Calatafimi 277. Calava, prom. 310. 227. Calciano 210. Calcinicra, Monte 332. Caldare 292. Gales 7. Callipolis 203. S. Calogero, Monte, near Sciacca 288. — , Lipari 323. — , Termini 291. Calore, river 204. 205. 208. Caltabelotta 289. — , river 289. Caltagirone 302. Caltanissetta 299. Caltavuturo 291. Calvello, Monte 11. Calvi 7. Calvo, Monte 177. 193. Camaldoli near Naples 90. — deir Avvocata 167. — di Meta 150. — della Torre 111. Camaldolilli 89. Camarana, river 304. Camarda 180. Camarina 233. 304. Camastra, river 210. Camerelle, the 154. Camicus 294. Cammarata 292. 209. — , Pizzo di 292. Campana 216. 180. — , Punta 171. Campanaro, Monte 298. Campanella, Punta di 148. Campania 7. Campeda, la 366. Campi 214. Campi Geloi 803. — Laestrigonii 347. — Palentini 181. Campidano 367. 372. . Campo Bianco 323. — di Giove 184. — Pericoli 180. Campobasso 191. Campobello 283. 303. Campofelice 308. Campofiorito 289. Campofranco 292. Campolattaro 191. Campolieto 191. Campomaggiore 210. Campomarino 191. Campomela 376, Camporotondo 334. Camposano 173. Cancello 10. Candela 194. Canicatti 299. Caniga 376. Cannae 197. Cannita 275. Cannitello 222. Cannizzaro 331. Cannole 203. Canosa 196. Canusium 196. Canzano 189. Capaccio Nuovo 164. — Vecchio 164. Capaci 276. Capistrello 186. Capitanata, the 176. 192. Capo, Lo (Capri) 154. Capo Bianco 290. — Figari 366. — Soprano 304, — di Sorrento 148. — Sottile 171. Capodimonte, near Na- ples 80. — , near Sorrento 147. Caposele 208. Villa 16. Cappelle 182. Cappelliere 289. Capreae 152. Capri 150. 153. Capriati al Volturno 7. Caprile 156. Capua 7. Capua 8. Capurso 200. Carales 369. Carbonara, Capo 370. Carceri di Nerone 100. Cardellieri, Monte 289. Cardillo, Monte 335, Cardito, Monte 189. Cariati 216. Carini 276. Caiinola 18. Carlentini 348. Carloforte 374. Caronia 310. Caronian Forest 229. Carotto 145. 150. Carovigno 201. INDEX. 401 Carpanzano 220. Carpineto 2. Carrito Ortona 183. Carruba 330. Carseoli 181. Carsoli 181. Cartagena, Cape 388. Cartellemi 334. Carthage 387. — , Cape 382. 388. Casabuono 208. Casa del Bosco 345. — Inglese 345. Casacalenda 191. Casaferro 173. Casalbordino 190. Casalduni 205. Casale d’Altamu.ra 195. Casalnuovo 11. 173. Casamicciola 106. Cascano 18. Cascia 177. Caserta 9. 204. — Vecchia 10. Casilinum 7. Casinum 4. Casmenae 233. 305. Casoria 204. Cassano 200. 218. Cassaro 292. 307. Cassibile 306. — , river 306. Cassino 4. — , Monte 5. Castagna, Capo 323. Castanea 321. Castel S. Angelo 177. — Fiorentino 194. — S. Giorgio 173. — di Lama 189. — di Sangro 185. — Termini 292. — di Tusa 309. Castelbuono 309. Castelcivita 208. Casteldaccia 290. Castella, Capo 216. Castellaccio, Fort 319. Castellalto 189. Castellammare Adr. 190. — del Golfo (Sicily) 277. — di Stabia 142. Castellaneta 200. Gastello, Monte 160. — di Barbarossa 155. — di Cisterna 173. — del Monte 197. — in Parco 159. Castelluccio 209. Castelnuovo Vallo 220. Castelvetere 217. Castelvetrano 279. Castiglione 332. Baedeker. Italy III. Castiglione di Sicilia 332. — , Monte 153. Castro 203, Castrofilippo 299. Castrogiovanni 227. 299. Castronuovo 292. Castroreale 311. Castrovillari 209. 219. Castrum Minervae 203. — Novum 189. S. Cataldo 299. 298. Catalfano, Monte 224. 275. Catana 232. 336. Catania 335. — , Piano di 347. Catanzaro 217. Catena del Marghine 367. Catenanuova 301, S. Caterina (Reggio) 222. — , Sicily 299. — , near Squillace 217. Catona 222. S. Cattaldo, Cast. 203. Caudine Forks 11. 204. Caudium 11. Gaulonia 217. Causo 291. Cava dei Tirreni 159. Cavaliere 181. Cavallino 203. Cavone, river 215. Ceccano 3. Cecchina 11. Cedrinus 367. Cefala-Diana 289. Cefalone, Pizzo 180. Cefalii 308. Celano 183. Cellole Fasani 18. Cento Camerelle 100. Centorbi 301. Centuripe 232. 301. Cephaloedium 308. 309. Ceprano 3. Gercatae 187. Cerchio 183. Cerda 291. Cerignola 196. Cerreto 204. Cerrila, Bosco della 342. Certosa, the (Capri) 154. — (nearMileto) 221. — di S. Lorenzo 208. Cervaro 6. 194. 207. — , river 207. Cervialto, Mte. 208. Cervico 219. Cesarano 150. S. Cesario di Lecce 203. Cetara 167. Charybdis 222. 321. Chiaiolella 104. Chianche 174. 12th Edition. Chiatona 211. Chiazza 302. Chienti, river 188. Chieti 186. Chieiiti 191. Chilivani 366. Chirica, Monte 323. Chiunzo, Monte 159. Chiusa-Sclafani 289. Ghoerades 211. Ghrysas 301. Ciampino 1. Cibali 335. Cicala 173. Cicci, Monte 321. Cicciano 173. Cicero’s Tomb 16. — Villa 16. Ciclopi, Scogli dei 331. Cimiti, Capo delle 216. Cimitile 173. Cineto 181. Cinisi 276. Cinquemiglia, Piano di 185. Cintaria, la 286. Girceii 14. Circeo or Circello, Monte or Promontorio 14. 11. Giro 216. S. Giro, Grotta di 273, Cisterna 12. Cisternino 201. Citta Santangelo 190. Citta Vecchia 381. Cittaducale 177. Cittanova 218. Civita d’Antino 186. — Lavinia 11. Civitanova 188. Civitella Roveto 186. Glanius 11. S. Clemente di Cas. 186. Cocullo 183. Cocuzzo, Monte 219. 220. Codola 173. 159. Collarmele 183, Golles Leucogaei 95. Collesano 308. Colli 181. 189. Colonne, Capo delle 216. Comino 381. 378. Comiso 304, Comitini 292. 299. Conca, Capo di 171. — , Gorge of 147. Conca d’Oro, la 247. Concazze, Serra delle 346. Concilio, Monte 343. S. Cono 302. Gonsentia 219. Consilina 208. Contessa 289. 26 402 INDEX. Conti delle Fontanelle 150. — di Geremenna 150. Contigliano 176. Contr, dei Santicelli 306. Controne 208. Contursi 208. Conversano 200. Copiae 215. Coppola, Monte 143. Cora 11. Coraci 220. Corato 197. Corcyra 390. Gorfinium 185. Corfu 389. Cori 11. Corigliano Calabro 215. — d’ Otranto 203. Corleone 289. Corleto 208. Corno, Monte 180. Cornus 368. Coroglio, Capo 88. Corpo di Cava 160. Correo 320. Corsari 289. Cosa 219. Coscile, river 209. 218. Cosenza 219. SS. Cosma e Damiano 18. Cossyra 382. S. Costanzo, Mte. 148. Cotrone 216. Crapolla 148. Crathis 218. Crati, river 215. 218. Cretaro, Monte 144. Crimiti, Monte 356. S. Croce, Capo 348. — del Sannio 191. — (Mt. Vesuvius) 118. Crocelle di Agrifoglio, Le 220. Cropani 216. Croton 216. Crucoli 216. Cuba, La 270. Cuccio, Monte 224. Culatrello 307. Culmine 374. Cumae 102. 30. Cunano, Monte 333. Gupersanum 200. Cupra Marittima 189. Cutiliaey Lacus 177. Curro, Monte 183. Cutro 216. Cutto, Monte 333. Cutula 332. Cyane Brook 362. Cyclopean Islands 331. Cyme 102. Damecuta 156. Damusi 335. S. Deca, Mte. 392. Decima, Fiumara 329. Decimomannu 369. Delia 303. — , river 283. S. Demetrio ne’ Vestini 180. Deserto 149. Desulo 376. Diano 208. Dicaearchia 93. Dicaeopolis 278. Didyme 324. Dittaino, river 301. Djamur 382. Djebel-Khaoui 388. — Res as 389. — Zaghouan 389. Domus Novas 373. S. Donato di Lecce 203. Donna Beatrice 289. Donnafugata 304. Donori 375. Drago, river 294. Drepana 285. Ducbessa, La 363. Due Fratelli 167. Dugenta 204. Durillo 304. — , river 304. Eboli 207. S. Efisio, Church 373. Egesta 278. Egnatia 201. Eknomos 303. Eleuiherus 275. S. Elia 191. 275. -, Capo 370. 372. — , Monte 222. Elini 375 Elmas 369. S. Elpidio 188. Enas 366. Enguium 291. Enna 228. 299. Enosis 374. Entella 232. 289. Epano 393. EpitaflFio, Punta delF 98. Epomeo , Monte 107. 105. Epomeus 105. Epopeus 105. Erbe Blanche 335. Erhessus 299. Eremitaggio di Trapani 320. Ericusa 324. Erikousi 389. Eryx 227. 232. 286. Esporlato 366. Esterzili 375. Etna, see .^tna. S. Eufemia 221. — , Golfo di 221. Euonymus 324. Yahrateria nova 3. — veiu$ 3. Fagnano 180. Faito, Monte 143. Falconara 303. — , river 306. Falconaria 285. Falcone 311. Falconiera, Monte 275. Falernus^ Ager 18. Falsomiele 273. Fano Adriano 189. Faraglioni 154. 331. Farina, Cape 382. Faro 321. Fasano 201. Favara 303. — , La 273. Favarotta 303. 302. Favazzina 222. Favignana 285. Favorite, la, Portici 112. — , near Palermo 269. S. Felice 10. 14. S. Ferdinando 325. Ferentino 2. Ferentinum 2. Ferentum 195. Ferla 307. Fermo 188. Feroleto Antico 221. Ferrandina 210. Ferru, Monte 368. Fibrenus, river 187. Ficarazzelli 274. 290. Ficarazzi 274. 290. Ficarra 310. Ficuzza 289. Figlino 159. Fildidonna 302. Filicuri 324. S. Filippo Archi 312. — d’Argiro 301. Finisterra, prom. 203. Firmum Picenum 188. Fiumara, river 195. Fiume Caldo 277. — Freddo 220. 277. 330. — Grande 226. 291. 308. — Salso226.291.299.303. — Torto 291. 307. S. Flavia 275. 290. S. Flaviano 189. Floridia 307. Foggia 192. Fondacazzo 302. Fondi 15. INDEX. 403 Fondi, Lake of 15. Fonni 376. Fans Bandusiae 195. Fontana 107. 214. — Congiada 376. — Grande 195. — Vecchia 329/330. Fontanamela 376. Fontanarosa 192. Fontane 188. Fontecchio 180. Fontes Leucogaei 95. Fordungianus 368. Forenza 195. Forio 107. Forli 185. Formia 16. Formiae 16. Fornacelle 150. Forno, II 100. Fortore, river 191. Forum Popilii 208. — Trajani 368. — Vulcani 95. Forza 325. Fossacesia 190. Fossanuova 13. Fragneto 191. Francavilla 190. 214. S. Franco, Monte 189. Francolisi 18. Frasso 204. 13. Fratelli 344. S. Fratello 310. — , Fiumara 310. Frattamaggiore-Grumo 204. Fratte 163. Frattocchie 11. Fregellae 3. Frento 191. Fries 375. Frosinone 3. Frumento, Monte 343. Frusino 3. Fucino, Lago di 182. Fundi 15. Fuorigrotta 92. 85. Furculae Caudinae 11. 204. Furiano, Fiumara di 310. Furore 171. Fusaro, Lago del 101. Gaeta 17. Gaggera, river 277. 278. Gagliano 301. Gairo 375. Galati 325. Galatina 203. Galatone 203. Galdo 208. Galli, I 171. Gallico 222. Gallinella, river 277. Gallipoli 203. Gallo, Capo di 224. Galtelli 367. — , Monte 276. Galugnano 203. Gangi 291. Garaguso 210. Gargano, Mte. 175. 191. 193. Garigliano, river 3. 18. Garofalo, the 321. Garouna 393. Gasturi 392. Gaulos 381. S. Gavino 368. Gela 233. 304. Gela, river 304. Gemellaro, Mte. 343. 345. Gemini, Monte 292. Generosa, La 291. Gennargentu, Mt. 376. S.Gennaro, monastery 95. Gerace 218. Gerbini 302. S. Germano 4. — , Stufe di 92. Gerrei 375. Gesico 375. Gesso 312. S. Giacomo 216. Giampilieri 325. Giardinetto 207. Giardini 325. Giarre 330. Giarretta, river 347. Giave 366. Gibellina 279. Gibilmanna 303. Gibilrossa 273. Giganti, Grotta de’ 273. Ginosa 211. Giocca 378. 376. Gioia Tauro 221. — del Colle 195. 200. Gioiosa lonica 218. — Marea 310. S. Giorgio (Avellino) 173. — , near Taranto 214. — , in Sardinia 378. — , in Sicily 312. — , near Patti 310. S. Giovanni in Carico 3. — in Fiori 220. — e Paolo di Casamari 187. — de Sinis 368. — a Teduccio 108. 111. — (Sardinia) 378. Giovenco 183. Giovinazzo 198. Girasole 375. Girgenti 293. Acropolis 294. S. Biagio 294. Biblioteca Lucchesiana 298. Catacombs 298. Cathedral 297. Cloacae of Phseax 297. Fonte dei Greci 294. Gates 293. S. Giorgio 298. S. Gregorio delle Rapi 295. Grotta de’ Frangapani 295. Hippodrome 297. S. Maria dei Greci 297. Museum 298. S. Nicola 295. Oratory of Phalaris 295. Panitteri Garden 295. Passeggiata 298. 294. Piscina 297. Porta Aurea 296. — del Ponte 294. Purgatorio, Ch. del 298. Rock of Athene 298. 294. Rupe Atenea 298. 294. Sulphur Mines 298. 294. Temple of Jisculapius 296. — of Athene 298. — of Castor and Pollux 296. — of Ceres and Proser- pine 294. — of Concord 295. — of Hercules 295. — of Juno Lacinia295. — of Jupiter Polieus 298. — of’ Vulcan 297. — of Zeus 296. Tomb of Theron 296. S. Vito 298. Giuliana 289. Giulianello 11. — , Lago di 11. S. Giuliano del Sannio 191. — , Monte 286. 227. 285. Giulianova 189. Giurdignano 203. S. Giuseppe 10. Gizio, river 181. Glypho 393. Gnathia 201. Godrano 289. Goletta 382. Golfo Aranci 366. Gonnesa 374. Gorgo di Cotone 280. Goriano 184. 404 Govino 393. Gozzo 381. 378. Gradelle, Punta 145. Gragnano 142. 144. Grammichele 302. Gran Sasso d’ltalia 180. 175. Grassano 210. Gratteri 308. Gravina 344. 195. 210. Grazia VeccMa 272. Greccio 176. Greci 207. S. Gregorio 218. Grifone, Monte 224. 273. Grotta, La 321. Grotta d’Averno 98. — Azzurra 157. — Bianca 157. — del Bove 344. — del Bove Marino 157. — del Cane 92. — del Castiglione 153. — di Collepardo 3. — Dragonara 101. — della Fata Donnavilla 311. — del Fracasso 334. — della Pace 103. 98. — delle Pulzelle 288. — della Sibilla 98. 103. 284. — delle Stalattite 157. — Taphano 288. — Verde 158. Grottaglio 214. Grottammare 189. Grottas, Mte. is 375. Grotte, Le 299. Grottole 210. Orumentum 208. Grumo 200. Guardia, Monte di 322. Guglionesi 191. Gullo Valley 312. Gurnalunga , river 347. Gurrita 333. S. Gusmano, river 348. TS.adranum 334. Halaesa 309. Halicyae 279. Halycus 289. Hammam Lif 389. Hatria 190. Heirctc 268. Helorus 305. 306. Hemichara 291. Hephaestiades 322. Heraclea 215. — Minoa 290. Heracleia 109. Herculaneum 108. INDEX. Herdonia 194. Hermitage (Mt. Vesuvius) 116. Hicesia 324. Hiera 323. Himella 181. Himera 307. 233. — Meridionalis 226. 291. 299. 303. — Septentrionalis22Q.22i. 308. Hipparis 304. Hipponion 221. Histonium 191. Hyhla Heraea 232. 304. — Minor 334. Hyccara 276. Hydruntum 203. Hydrus 203. Hyllsean Harbour 392. Hyps as 288. — , river 294. Iglesias 373. S. Ilario 194. llbono 375. Illorai 366. Imachara 291. Imele, river 181. Imera 299. Imperatore, Punta 107. Inarime 105. Inice, Monte 279. Insulae Diomedeae 191. Interamna 189. Intermesole, Pizzo d’ 180. Interocrea 177. Interpromium 186. loppolo 221. Irno 163. Irpino 174. Ischia 105. Ischitella 193. Iscla 105. Isclero, the 204. Isernia 185. 7. Isili 375. Isola Capo-Rizzuto 216. — d’Aci 331. — dei Cani 382. — delle Femine 276. — del Liri 187. — Ferdinandea 289. — Grande 285. — Lunga 285. — Piana 374. — Salina 324. Isoletta 3. Ispica, Val d’ 305. Itri 16. Jerzu 376. Julian Aqueduct 100. Kalikiopoulo, Lake 392. Kamart 388. Kardaki 392. Karthada 387. Kasr-Sad 275. Kheredine 387. Khram 387. Konto Vouni 389. Kormn 289. Kressida 392. Kronios^ Mons 288. Kyme 30. Labico 2. Lacco 107. Lacinian promontory 216. Laconi 376. Lacus Acherutius 102. — Amyclanus 15. — Avernus 97. — Gutiliae 177. — Fucinus 182. — Fundanus 15. — Lucrinus 97. — Niger 209. — Palicorum 302. Lagonegro 208. Lagopesole 210. Lama, Castel di 189. Lanciano 190. Lanusci 375. Lanuvium 11. Lao, river 209. Laos 209. Larino 191. Larinum 191. Lascari 308. Latiano 214. Lattarico 219. Lattaro, Mte. 144. Lauria 209. Lauro, Mte. 227. Lauiulae 15. Lavello 195. Laviano 208. Lavoro, Terra di 7. Lazzaro 218. S. Lazzaro, Fort 169. Leano, Monte 13. Lecce 202. Lei 367. Lentini 347. — , Lago di 347. S. Leo 315. S. Leonardo 193. 348. — , river 290. Leone 302. Leonessa 176. Leonforte 301. Leontini 232. 347. Lepre, Monte 333. Lercara 292. Lesina, Lago di 191. INDEX. 405 Lete Vivo, brook 189. Letoianni 325. Lettere 142. Leuca 203. Leuca, promontory 203. S. Leucio, Casino di 10. Levanzo 285. S. Liberatore, Monte 161. Licata 228. 303. Licatia 344. Lilibeo, Capo 284. Lilyhaeum 284. Limbara, Monti di 366. Lingua 324. Linguaglossa 332. — , Bosco di 342. Liparaeae 322. Lipari 322. — Islands 226. 322. Liris, river 3. 18. 181. Lisca Bianca 324. Locroi Epizephyrioi 218. Lone 169. Longano 311. Lontrano, ravine 208. S. Lorenzo 2T6. — , Certosa 208. — Maggiore 205. Loreto 173. 188. Lotzorai 375. S. Louis 387. Lucania 176. 209. Luce 215. Lucera 193. Luceria 193. S. Lucia 213. 312. S. Lucido 220. Luco 183. Lucrino 97. Lumidoro 348. Luparo, Monte 184. Lupia 203. Lusciano, Villa 97. Lysimelia 362. 'SILacara 290. Maccalubi 292. Maccliia , La 343. Macomer 367. Macopsisa 367. Maddalena, La 373. Maddaloni 10. 204. Madonia Mts. 308. 227. Madonna dell’Annunziata 286. — deir Autu 277. — del Capo 216. — del Castello 209. — del Lauro 145. — della Rocca 330. — di Saccargia 378. Maechi, Torrente 332. Maenza 13. Magliano 182. Maglie 203. Magna Oraecia 176. Magnisi 348. Maiella, Mt. 175. 184. 190. Maiori 167. Maiorisi 18. Malaspina, Monte 324. Maletto 333. Maleventum 205. Mai fa 324. Malka, la 387. Malta 378. Malvagna 332. Mandas 375. Mandela 181. Manduria 214. Manfredonia 192. Mangano 330. Maniacium 333. Mannu, river 375. Manoppello 186. Manouba, the 387. Manoubia, the 386. Marano 189. Marausa 285. Marcellinara 221. 217. Marcianise 204. S. Marco 219. — di Aluuzio 232. 310. — , Cape 368. Marechiaro 87. Marecoccola , Telegrafo di 150. Mare Dolce 274. — Grande 211. — Morto 100. 101. — Piccolo 211. 213. Marescia 200. S. Margarita 104. S. Margherita 289. S. Maria dei Bisognosi 181. — , near Catanzaro 217. — (Massa Lubrense) 148. — di Buonaria 372. — di Capua Vetere 8. — a Castello 150. — del Castello 118. — di Gesii, near Palermo 273. , near Catania 340. — di Leuca 203. — di Licodia 334. — Maggiore 159. — a Monte Vergine 289. — della Neve 149. — a Pozzano 143. — del Rosario 158. — della Scala 320. — di Siponto 193. — del Soccorso 155. — della Valle 320. S. Maria della Vittoria 182 — , island 285. Marianopoli 298. S. Marie 181. Mariglianella 173. Marigliano 10. 173. Marina del Cantone 148. — di Cazzano 145. — di Equa 145. — di Puolo 147. S. Marina 324. Marinella 366. Marino 189. Maritime 226. Marmogada 376. Marmore 176. Maroglio, river 304. Marro, river 221. Marrubiu 368. Marruvium 183. Marsa, La 388. 387. Marsala 283. Marsico Nuovo 208. S. Martino (near Pa- lermo) 272. — in Pensilis 191. — , near Milazzo 312. Mascali 332. Mascalucia 344. Massa (Vesuvius) 115. — d’Albe 182. Massafra 200. Massa Lubrense 148. Massanunziata 344. Massico, Monte 18. Massolivieri, prom. 350. Mater Domini 159. Matese 10. Matrice 191. Matrinus 190. Mazara 283. Mazaras, river 283. Mazzara 283. Meana 376. Megara Hyhlaea 348. 232. Megarean Bay 348. Megaris 34. Mejerda, river 382. Melfi 194. — , Pizzuto di 195. Meligunis 322. Melilli 348. Melite 379. Melito 218. Menae 232. 302. Menfrici or Menfi 288. Mercante, Passo del 218. Mercato S. Severino 173. Mercogliano 174. Merenda 332. Mesagne 214. Messana 314. 406 INDEX. Messina 313. Abbadiazza, L’ 320. S. Agostino 318. S. Anna 317. S. Annunziata 317. Antennamare, Mte. 320. Boccetta, Torrente 318. Campo Inglese 320. — Santo 320. Cappuccini, Monte dei 320. Cathedral 316. Cattolica, la 317. Cemetery, Prot. 319. Chalcidicus, Mons 320. Citadel 319. Corso Cavour 318. — Vitt. Emanuele 319- S. Cosma & Damiano 317. Dogana 319. Exchange 319. Fort Castellaccio 319. — Gonzaga 320. Fountain of Montorsoli 316. S. Francesco d’Assisi 318. — , Oratorio di 319. S. Gioacchino 318. S. Giov. Decollato 318. S. Gregorio 317. Harbour 319. Indirizzo, Ch. del 317. Lazzaretto 319. Library 317. Lighthouse 319. S. Lucia 317. S. Maddalena 317. S. Maria Alemanna 317. — di Mortalto 318. — della Seal a 318. 320. Matagrifone 318. Matrice 316. Natural History Col- lection 317. S. Niccolo 318. Ospedale Civico 317. Pace, Chiesa della 318. Palazzo Brunaccini319. — Grano 318. — Municipale 319. Piazza del Duomo 316. Post Office 319. 313. S. Rocco 317. Statue of Don John of Austria 318. Strada Militare 320. Teatro Vitt. Eman. 313 University 317. Villa Guelfonia 318. Messina, the Strait of 314. Messina, river 221. Meta 145. Metaponto 210. Metapontum 210. Metaurum 221. Metaurus 221. Mezzagno 273. Mezzocampo 334. Mezzojuso 289. S. Michele, Mte. 153. 375. — , near Manfredonia 193. — , near Melfi 194. Mignano 7. Milazzo 311. 227. 228. Mileto 221. Miletto, Monte 10. Mili 325. Mills 368. Militello 302. Mimiani 298. Mimnermum 272. Minardo, Monte 333. Mineo 232. 302. Minervino, Murgie di 197. Miniscola Spiaggia di 101. Minoa 290. Minopolis 200. Minor! 167. Minturna 18. Minturnae 18. Mirto Crosia 216. Miseno 101. — , Capo 101. Misenum 100. Misilmeri 289. Misterbianco 335. Mistretta 309. Mitromania,Grotta di 155. Modica 305. Modione, river 280. 282. Modolo 367. Modugno 197. 200. Moiano 204. Mojo 332. Mola di Bari 200. — di Gaeta 16. — , near Taormina 329. 326. Molentargiu , Stagno di 370. 372. Moles Puteolanae 94. Molfetta 198. Molina 181. — , Punta 105. Molini, Valle de’ 169. Monacilione 191. Monacone, II 154. Monalus 309. Monasterace 217. Monastir 369. Mondello 269. Mondragone 18. Monforte 191. 312. Slongibello 341. Mongiuffi 325. Mongrassano 219. Monopoli 200. Monreale (Sicily) 271. — (Sardinia) 368. Monserrato 375. Montagano 191. Montagnuola, the 345. Montaguto 207. Montalbano 215. Montallegro 289. Montalto 219. 223. Montauro 217. Monte Cassino 5. — Compatri 2. — Fortino 2. — Giordano 215. — Grosse 307. — Nuovo 97. — Santangelo 193. — Vergine 174. 324. Montecalvo 207. Montecorvino 163. Monteiasi 214. Monteleone 221. Montemaggiore 291. Montemesola 214. Montenarba 363. Montenero 191. Montepagano 190. Montepertuso 144. Montepesole 210. Monteponi 363. 374. Monteprandone 189. Monteroduni 7. Montesampolo 189. Montesano 2^. Montesarchio 11. Montesardo 203. Montesilvano 190. Montes Lactarii 144. — Neptunii 227. — Pelorides 227. Montevecchio 363. 368. Monti 366. — Rossi 344. 334. Monticelli 15. Montorio 189. Montoro 173. Morano 209. Morcone 191. Mores 366. Morgantium 232. Morino 186. Mormanno 209. Morolo 2. Moropano 107. Moscia, Monte 217. Mosciano 189. Motta 192. — S. Anastasia 302. 335. Moltola 200. INDEX. 407 M9tye 233. 284. Muglia 301. Mulafa 378. Mulinazzo 289. Muranum 209. Mu rata, La 210. Murganai, Monte 373. Murgie di Minervino 197. Muro 203. — Liicano 209. Musei 373. Mussumeli 292. Mutignano 190. Mylae 311. 312. Nao, Capo 216. Naples 19. Accademia Pontaniana 46. Acqua di Serino 80. Albergo dei Poveri 41. S. Angelo a Nilo 47. S. Anna dei Lombardi 43. SS. Annunziata 48. Aquarium 33. Arcbetiello, Y 89. Archives 48. Arcivescovado 53. Arrival 19. Arsenal 38. Banca Nazionale 40. Bankers 23. S. Barbara 38. Baths 24. Bazaar 41. Beer 21. Boarding Houses 20. Boats 23. Booksellers 25. Botanic Garden 41. Cable Tramways 23. 82. Cafes 21. Camaldoli 90. Campo Santo Nuovo 49. Capo Coroglio 88. — di Posilipo 87. Capodimonte 80. Cappella del Sole 50. — del Tesoro 51. S. Carlo, Theatre 36. Carnival 28. Carriages 21. 22. Casa dei Trovatelli 48. Castello Capuano 49. — del Carmine 39. — Nuovo 37. — deir Ovo 34. — Sant’ Elmo 82. Catacombs 79. S. Caterina a Formello 49. Cathedral 50. Naples : Cemeteries 49. Chemists 24. Chiaja, the 32. S. Chiara 44. Chiesa del Sannazaro 86 . Cigars 21. Colonna de’ Martiri 39. Commandant’s Resid. 35. Commissionnaires 30. Confectioners 21. Conservatorium of Music 54. Consulates 24. Corso Garibaldi 39. 49. — Re d’ltalia 38. — Vitt. Emanuele 81. S. Croce al Mercato 39. Cumae Railway 91. Custom House 38. Dazio Consume 89. Dogana 38. S. Domenico Magg. 45. Duomo 50. English Churches 25. Exchange 37. Festivals, national and religious 28. S. Filippo Neri 53. Foundlings’ Home 48. S. Francesco di Paola 35. Frisio, Scoglio di 87. Fuorigrotta 92. 85. Galleria Principe di Na- poli 41. — Umberto I. 36. S. Gennaro 79. Gesii Nuovo 43. S. Giac. della Marca 42. — degli Spagnuoli 37. S. Giovanni a Carbo- nara 50. — Maggiore 46. — de’ Pappacoda 46. Goods Agents 26. Grotta di Posilipo 85. Grotto of Sejanus 88. Guides 30, Harbours 38. History 30. Hospitals 24. 84. 87. Hotels 19. 20. Immacolatella 38. Incoronata 42. 37. S. Januaries, Chap. 51. Largo della Carita 40. — S. Domenico 45. — del Mercatello 41. — S. Trinita Magg. 43. — della Vittoria 33. Naples : Liceo Vitt. Eman. 41. Lighthouse 38. Lloyd’s Agents 24. S. Lorenzo 54. Lotto 28. S. Lucia 34. S. Maria del Carmine 39. — Costantinopolit. 82. — del Faro 87. — la Nuova 42. — del Parto 86. — di Piedigrotta 85. — della Pietade’Sangri 46. 47. S. Martino 82. Martyrs’ Monument 39. Mergellina, the 86. Miracoli, de’ 81. Miradois 81. Molo Angioino 38. — Piccolo 38. Money Changers 24. Monte Oliveto 43. — di Pieta 48. — Santo 40. 82. Municipio 37. Museo Capodimonte 80. — Civico Filangieri 53. — Nazionale 55. iEschines, Stat. of 62. Alexander, Battle of 65. xlii. Amazon, etc., of the Pergam. School 62. xxxii. Animals (Bronze) 66. Apollo playing the Lyre 67. xxxiv. Bronzes, Ancient 66. — , Small 77. Caligula, Statue of 68. Chinese Collections 60. Christian Inscrip- tions 60. Coins 74. Crystal, Ancient 73. Cumsean Collection 70. Dancing Faun 67. Doryphorus of Poly- cletus 61. xxxii. Drunken Faun 67. Egyptian Antiquities 60. Emperors, Busts and Statues of 63. Engravings 70. Farnese Bull 60. xxxii. — Flora 65. — Hera 62. xxx. 408 INDEX. Najiles : Museo Nazionale: Farnese Hercules 59. Food Collection 71. Frescoes, Ancient, from Pompeii, etc. 56. 69. xxxix. Gold and Silver Ornaments 79. Harmodius and Aris- togeiton 61. xxxi. Heraclea, Tables of 59. Homer 61. Inscriptions 59. Library 73. Marble Sculptures 61 . Mercury Reposing 68. Mosaics 57. Museo Santangelo76. Narcissus 67. Orestes and Electra 61. xxxiv. Ornamental Paint- ings 58. Orpheus relief 66. xxxi. Papyri, Library of 70. Pictures, Modern 71. 74. Pompeian Frescoes 56. 69. xxxix. Pompeii, Model of 78. Portico degli Impe- ratori 63. Portrait Statues and Busts 63. Precious Relics 78. Psyche of Capua 62. xxxiv. Raccolta Pornogra- fica 74. Reliefs 65. 66. Renaissance Works 70. Salpion, Vase of 65. xxxiv. Satyrs 62. 67. 68. Terracottas 69. Vases, Coll, of 76. Venus Callipygus 62. — of Capua 61. xxxiv. — , Statues of 62. Weapons, Collection of 68. Wounded Gaul 62. xxxii. Museum of S. Martino 83. Newspapers 28. Observatory 81. Omnibuses 23. Naples : Ospedale della Pace 50. Paduli, the 49. Palazzo d’Angri 40. — Arcivescovile 53. — Calabritto 40. — di Capodimonte 80. — Casacalenda 45. — Caviati 45. — Corigliano 45. — Cuomo 53. — di Donn’ Anna 87. — Fondi 42. — Gravina 43. — Maddaloni 40. — de’ Minister! 37. — Nunziante 40. — Partanna 40. — Reale 35. — S. Severo 45. — Sirignano 37, S. Paolo Maggiore 53. Parco Margherita 84. — Savoia 85. Pausilypon P8. 84. Pensions 20. Photographs 26. Physicians 24. Piazza Cavour 41. — Dante 41. — S. Ferdinando 36. — Garibaldi 39. — S. Gennaro 50. — Gerolomini 53. — de’ Martiri 39. — del Mercato 39. — di Montoliveto 43. — del Municipio 37. — di Piedigrotta 85. — del Plebiscite 34. — Salvator Rosa 81. — la Torretta 85. — Umberto 33. 85. S. Pietro a Maiella 54. — Martire 38. Pizzofalcone 34. Police Office 19. Ponte di Chiaja 40. — della Sanita 79. Porta Alba 41. — Capuana 49. — del Carmine 39. — Nolana 39. Porto Grande 38. — Mercantile 88. — Militare 38. — Piccolo 38. Posilipo 84. 85. Post Office 24. 43. Prefettura 34. Railways 19. Reclusorio 41. Restaurants 20. Naples : S. Restituta 52. Rione Amedeo 82. — Vomero 82. Riviera di Chiaja 32. Sannazaro (Chiesa) 86. Sansevero (Cappella) 47. Schilizzi’s Mausoleum 87. Scuola di Virgilio 88. S. Sebastiano 38. SS. Severino e Sosio 47. Shops 25. Slaughter House 49. Specola, la 81. Statue of Alvino 33. — of Bellini 54. — of Charles III. 35. — of Colletta 33. — of Dante 41. — of Ferdinand I. 35. — of Italia 36. — of Mercadante 42. — of Poerio 40. — of Thalberg 33. — of Vico 33. — of Victor Emmanuel 37. Steamboats 19. Strada S. Anna de’ Lom- bardi 40. — S. Biagio de’ Librai 48. — Calabritto 39. — Caracciolo 32. — Carbonara 50. — S. Caterina 40. — di Chiaja 40. — Chiatamone 34. — Foria 41. — S. Lucia 34. — Medina 42. 37. — Montoliveto 43. — di Piedigrotta 85. — di Porto 38. — Roma 40. — Salv. Rosa 81. — dei Tribunal! 50. 53. — deir Universita 47. Street Scenes 27. Telegraph Office 24. 43. Theatres 26. 36. 38. 53, Toledo 40. Tombola 28. Tramways 22. 23. Trattorie 21. 20. S. Trinita Maggiore 43. University 47. Via, see Strada. Vicaria, la 49. Villa d’Abro 87. — Angri 87. INDEX 409 N«'ii>les : Villa Antona-Traversa 87. — Avelli 81. — Cottrau 87. — Dini 87. — Forquet 81. — Gallo 81. — Gallotti 87. — De la Hante 87. — Meuricoffre 81. — Nazionale 32. — del Popolo 38. — Rendell 87. — Riv' alt a 87. — Ruffo 81. — Sanssouci 87. — Thai berg 87. Virgil’s Tomb 86. S. Vitale 92. Vomero 82. 89. Wine 21. Zoological Station 33. Nardo 203. Naro 303. Naso 310. Nasone, Punta del 113. Natiolum 198. Naxos 232. 330. Nazaret 89. Nebrodic Mts. 227. 332. Negro, river 208. Neptunian Mts. 312. 227. Nerano 148. Neretum 203. Nesis 88. Netium 198. Nicastro 221. S. Niccolo Varco 164. S. Nicola 167. 195. — , Monte 107. — (Capua) 9. — (Lecce) 203. — (Mazzara) 283. — (Termini) 290. — d’ Arena 347. S. Nicolo-Gerrei 375. Nicolosi 344. Nicosia 291. Nicotera 221. Nigolosu 367. Ninfa 12. S. Ninfa 279. Nisi, Fiume di 325. Nisida 88. Nizza di Sicilia 325. Noce 272. Nocella, river 277. Nocera de’ Pagani 159. — Superiore 159. Noicattaro 200. Nola 172. 173. Nora 373. Norba 12. Norcia 177. 189. Norma 12. Notabile, La 381. Notaresco 189. Noto 306. 305. Nova Siri 215. Novara 311. Nuceria Alfaterna 159. Numistrone 209. Nuoro 367. Nurallao 376. Nurri 375. Nursia 177. Ocre 180. Ofantino 196. Ofanto river 195. 196. Offida 189. Ogliastro, in Sicily 289. — , near Psestum 220. Ognina, L’ 332. Ogygia 379. Olbia 366. Oliva 303. Oliveri 311. Olmedo 378. Onniferi 367. Ontanese 11. Ordona 194. Oreto, river 274. Oria 214. Oristano 367. Orlando, Capo d’ 144. 310. Orosei 367. Orotelli 367. Orri 373. Orroli 375. Orsara di Puglia 207. Orso, Capo d’ 167. — , Monte 276. S. Orsola 378. Orta Nova 196. Ortona 190. Ortuabis 376. Orune 367. Oschiri 366. Osilo 377. Osimo 188. Ossidda 366. Ostuni 201. Othoca 368. Othonian Islands 389. Othonous 389. Otranto 203. — , Terra d’ 176. Ottaiano 10. 173. Ovindoli 180. Ozieri 366. Pabillonis 368. Pachino 305. Pace 321. Paccco 285. Pachynum, Proinont.305. Padula 208. Psestum 163. 164. Pagani 159. Paganica 180. Palseokastrizza 393. Palaeopolis 30. Palagianello 200. Palagiano 200. Palagonia 302. Palavicino 269. Palazzo 195. — S. Gervasio 195. Palazzolo Acreide 306. Palermo 246. Acquasanta 267. S. Agata li Scoruggi 253. S. Agostino 258. Alb ergo de’ Poveri 270. SS. Annunziata 266. S. Antonio 255. 256. Assunta 251. Bagaria or Bagheria 274. Baida 272. Bankers 246. Baths 246. Benedictine Mon. 271. Biblioteca Com. 254. Booksellers 246. Botan. Garden 258. Cala, La 248. 256. 266. Campo S. Orsola or di S. Spirito 274. Cancelliere (Chiesa) 253. Cappella Palatina 249. Capuchin Mon. 270. Carceri 268. Carmine Maggiore 254. Carriages 246. Casino Nuovo 246. Castellaccio, II 272. Castellammare, Fort 266. Castello di Mare Dolce 274. Catacombs 267. S. Cataldo 253. S. Caterina 253. Cathedral 251. Charles V. , Statue of 253. S. Chiara 254. S. Ciro 273. S. Cita 266. Collegio Nuovo 252. Conservatorio 256. Conservatory of Music 266. Consuls 247. 410 INDEX Palermo : Corso Alberto Amedeo 267. — Calatafimi 270. — del Mille 273. — Vittorio Emanuele 252. 255. Cottone, Statue of 259. Cuba, La 270. Cubola 270. S. Domenico 265. English Cemetery 267. — Church 247. 266. S. Eulalia 258, Falde 268. Favara, La 273. Favorita, La 269. Finance Office 256. Flora, La 257. Florio , Vine., Statue of 266. Fontana delGaraflfo256. Foro Italico 257. Foundling Hospital 258. S. Francesco de’ Chio- dari 255. Gangia, la 257. Garibaldi, Statue of 259. Giardino d’ Acclima- zione 270. — Garibaldi 256. — Inglese 259. S. Giorgio 266. S. Giovanni degli Ere- miti 250. — de’ Leprosi 274. S. Giuseppe dei Teatini 253. Goods Agents 247. Grotta de’ Giganti 273. — di S. Rosalia 268. Harbour 248. Health 247. History 248. Hotels 245. Infirmeria dei Sacer- doti 251. Istituto Agrario 269. Jesuits’ Church 254. Lyceum 252. Madonna dell’ Incor- onata 251. — dellaProvidenza253. Magione, La 257. S. Marco 258. S. Maria di Altofonte 273. — deir Ammiraglio 254. — della Catena 256. — di Gesii 273. — di Grazie 255. Palermo; S. Maria dei Miracoli 256. — Nuova 267. — dello Spasimo 257. — della Vittoria 257. — della Volta 258. Marina 257. S. Martino 272. Martorana 254. S. Matteo 255. Meli, Statue of 257. Mimnermum 272. Money Changers 246. Monreale 271. Monte Pellegrino 268. Museo Nazionale 259. National Library 252. S. Niccolo deir Al- bergheria 254. — dei Greci 266. S. Ninfa (tower) 249. Observatory 249. Oratorio di S. Lorenzo 255. — del S. Rosario 266. Palazzo Abbatelli 257. — Aiutamicristo 255. — Arcivescovile 251. — Baucina 257. — Belmonte 253. — Briuccia 256. — Butera 256. — S. Cataldo 256. — Cattolica 256. — Chiaramonti 256. — della Citta 253. — Federico 254. — Forcella 257. — Geraci 253. — Municipale 253. — Pietratagliata 258. — Raffadale 254. — Reale 249. — Riso 253. — Sclafani 251. — Serradifalco 253. — Settimo 255. — dei Tribunali 256. — Villafranca 253. Pensions 245. Philip V. , Monument of 250. Physicians 247. Piazza Bologni 253. — della Croce de’ Vespri 255. — deir Indipendenza 250. — della Kalsa 257. — della Magione 255. — Marina 256. — dell’ Olivella 259. Palermo : Piazza Pretoria 253. — della Rivoluzione 255. — Ruggiero Settimo 259. — Vigliena 253. — della Vittoria 248. Pie di Grotta 266. Pieta , Chiesa della 257. S. Pietro Martire 25S. Politeama Garibaldi 259. Ponte deir Ammiraglio 274. — delle Grazie 272. Porrazzi 272. Porta S. Antonino 254. — di Castro 250. — Felice 256. — Garibaldi 255. — de’ Greci 257. — Nuova 250. — d’Ossuna 267. Portella 272. Porto Salvo, Chiesa di 256. Post Office 246. 253. Punta di Bersaglio 268. Quattro Canti 253. Rail. Stations 245. 254. Rocca 270. S. Rosalia 268. S. Salvatore 253. Seminario Greco 266. Settimo, Ruggiero, Sta- tue of 259. Spedale Grande 251. S. Spirito 274. Steamboats 246. Steri, Lo 256. Stradone delBorgo 267. Teatro Vittorio Emanuele 258. Telegraph Office 246. S. Teresa 257. Theatres 247. 268. Tramways 246. Trattorie 246. University 254. Via Garibaldi 255. — della Liberia 259. — Macqueda 253. 258. — Vitt. Emanuele 252. Villa Belmonte 267. — Butera 267. 275. — Florio 267. — Giulia 257. — Grazia 273. — Palagonia 275. — Serradifalco 267. — Sofia 269. INDEX. 411 ralermo : Villa Tasca 270. — Valguarnera 275. Zisa, La 267. Palestrina 2. Palica 302. Palici, Lago de’ 302. Palizzi 218. Palma, near Nola 173. — de Montichiaro 303. Palmaria 14. Palmarola 14. Palmas 374. Palmi 221. Palo del Colle 200. Paludi 367. Paludi Pontini 12. Palycus 220. S. Panagia 349. — , Capo 348. 349. 361. Panaria 324. Pandateria 14. Pandona, Grotto of 167. Panni 207. Panormos 233. 248. Pantacyas 348. S. Pantaleo, Isola 284. Pantaleone, Mt. 393. Pantalica 348. Pantani, lakes 321. Pantano 348. — deir Acerra 11. — di Policoro 215. Pantelleria 382. 226. Paola 220. — , Lago di 15. S. Paolo, near Syracuse 305. 307. — , island, near Sora 187. — , near Taranto 211. Paradise, Torrente di 321. Parco 273. Parghelia 221. S. Partaleo 375. Partanna 289. Parthenope 30. Partinico 277. Passero, Promontorio 226. 305. Passofonduto 292. Passo Martino 347. — Zingaro 333. Pastina 169. Paterno 159. 177. 183. Paterno 334. Paternopoli 173. Pattada 366. Patti 310. Patii 203. Paulilatino 367. Pausilypon 84. Pecoriello (Grotto) 147. Pedara 347. 344. Pedaso 189. S. Pelino 185. Pellaro 218. Pellegrino, Monte 268. 224. 228. 276. Pelleka 393. Peloric Mts. 227. Pendolo, Monte 144. Penna, Punta di 190. — , Punta della 213. Pennata, Punta di 100. Penne 190. Pentima 186. Pergusa, Lago 302. Pericoli, Campo 180. Persano 208. Pertosa 203. Pescara 185. 186. 190. Pescina 183. Pescolamazza 191. Pescolanciano 185. Pesto 164. Petina 208. Petraea 291. Petrale 286. Petralia di Sopra 291. — di Sotto 291. Pettineo, Fiume di 309. Pettorano 185. Phaleron ^0. Pkeleka, bridge 393. Phlegrsean Plain, the 90. Phoenicusa 324. Piana dei Greci 273. Piano, Monte 189. — de’ Cappuccini 286. — del Lago 345. — di Cinquemiglia 185. Piazza Armerina 302. Picerno 209. Piediluco 176. Piedimonte d’ Alife 10. — Etneo 332. S. Pier Niceto 312. Pietrabbondante 185. Pietracamela 180. Pietra Elcina 191. Pietragalla 210. Pietrapaola 216. Pietrapertosa 210. Pietraperzia 302. Pietra Santa 160. S. Pietro, Avezzano 182. — , Basilica 148. — , island (Taranto) 211. — , — (Sard.) 374. — in Fine 7. — Pula 373. — Vernotico 202. Pignatara, Monte 311. Pignataro 7. Pigne, Valle delle 149. Pilae 94. Pilastri 92. Pimonte 144. Pineta, Monte 306. Pinna 190. Piomba, river 190. Piperno 13. Piraino 310. Pirri 375, Pisciarelli, I 95. Piscina Grande 97. Piscina Mirahilis 100. Pisciotta 220. Pisticci 210. Pithecusa 105. Pizzo 221. — Cefalone 180. — dTntermesole 180. — di Sevo 189. Pizzone, II 213. Pizzuta, La 306. Placeolum 306. S. Placido 325. Plaia, the 373. Platani, river 289. 292. Platano, river 209. Plemmyrion 350. Ploaghe 376. Poetelia 216. Pofi 3. Pogerola 169. Poggio di S. Angelo 303. — Imperiale 191. Poggioreale 173. Poggiorsini 195. Policoro 215. Polignano a Mare 200. Polizzi 291. Polla 208. Pollina 309. — , Fiume di 309. Pollino,Mte.209.215. 219. Pomigliano d’ Arco 173. Pompeii 118. Altar of the Lares 133. Amphitheatre 141. Bakehouse 138. Basilica 124. Cardo 121. 129. 132. Casa Nuova 136. Curia 127. — Isiaca 130. Custom House 138. Decumanus Major and Minor 121. m. 130. 132. 134. Eumachia, Building of 127. Forum Civile 125. — Triangulare 128. Fullonica 133. 136. Gates 129. 138. Gladiators’ Barracks 128. 412 INDEX. Pompeii : riotels 119. House (casa) of the Wounded Adonis 137, — of the Anchor 136. — of Anteros 133. — of Apollo 137. — of Ariadne 134. — with the Balcony 132. — of the Boar Hunt 127. — of Ceecilius Jucun- dus 133. — dei Capitelli Figu- rati 134. — of Castor and Pollux 137. of the Centaur 137. — del Centenario 133. — of the Chase 134. — del Cinghiale 127. — del Citarista 130. — of Corn. Rufus 130. — of Epid. Rufus 130. — of Epid.Sahinusl30. — of the Faun 134. — of the Large Foun- tain 133. — of the Small Foun- tain 136. • — of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany 134. — of Holconius 131. — of theLabyrinth 136. — of M. Lucretius 132. — of Meleager 137. — of the Mosaic Co- lumns 139. — deir Orso 132. — of Pansa 135. — della Pareta Nera 134. — of Sallust 138. — of Siricus 131. — of the Surgeon 138. — of the Tragic Poet 135. — of Vesonius Primus 133. Insulae 121. Lupanare 132. Macellum 126. Museum 124. Oscan tombs 140. Pagus Augustus Felix 139.:i40. Pavement 122. Porta di Ercolano 138. — Marina 123. — di Stabia 129. Regions 121. Shops 122. 132. Stabian Thermae 130. Pompeii : Strada delP Abbon- danza 130. — dei Diadumeni 130. — della Fortuna 134. — del Lupanare 132. — di Mercurio 136. — di Nola 132. — di Sallustio 138. — della Scuola 128. — dei Sepolcri 139. — Stabianal29.132.133. — delle Terme 135. Street of Tombs 139. Streets 122. Taverns 136. 138, Temple of uEsculapius 129. — of Apollo 125. 128. — of Fortuna 134. — of Isis 129. — of Jupiter 126. — of the Lares 136. — of Mercury 127. — of Vespasian 127. Theatre, the Great 129. — , the Small 129. Thermae 132. 135. — , Stabian 130. Tomb of Arria 140. — of M. Arrius Dio- medes 140. — of Calventius Quin- tus 140. — of Cerrinius 139. — of the Garlands 139. — of M. Libella 140. — of Mamia 139. — of Naevoleia Tyche 140. — of M. Porcius 139. — of Scaurus 140, — of Terentius 139. — of Veius 139. — of 77, Velasius Gra- tus 140. Town Wall 138. Tribunals 128. Triclinium 140. Triumphal Arch 126. Via Marina 124. Vico del Lupanare 131. Vicolo dei Teatri 128. Villa of Cicero 139. — of Diomedes 140. Pondikonisi 392. Ponte di Bovino 207. — di Caligola 94. — Carcacci 334. — Cartau 374. — di Cicerone 187. — S. Cono 209. — della Disgrazia 330. Ponte della Maddalena 111 . — Maggiore 145. — di Silla 208. — Valentino 207. Pontecagnano 163. Pontelandolfo 181. Ponti della Valle 10. 204. Pontiae 14. Pontine Islands 14. — Marshes 12. Pontone 167. 171. — , Castello 167. Ponza 14. Popoli 185. Porcari, river 348. Porci, Valle dei 269. Porrazzi 272. Porri, Monte de’ 324, Portalegni, torrent 315. Portella, La 15. — di Mare 272. 275. — , Monte della 180. — , Passo della 180. Porticella 275. Portici 108. Portiere Stella 302. Porto Civitanova 188. — Empedocle 293, 228. — S. Giorgio 188. — dTschia 108. — di Levante 324. — Palo 305. — Recanati 188. — Scuso 374. — Torres 378. — d’Ulisse 305. Portocannone 191. Portovesme 374. Portus Caieta 17. — Julius 98. — Sulcitanus 374. — Ulyxis 332. Poseidonia 164. Posilipo 84. 85. Positano 171. 150. Potamo 393. Potentia 210. Potenza 209. — Picena 188. Pozzallo 305. Pozzano 143. Pozzo d’ Antullo 3. — di Gotto 311. — di Latignano 177. — di S. Venera 331. Pozzopiano 145. 150. Pozzuoli 93. Praia d’Aieta 220. Praiano 171. Prata 174. Prato 367. IPratola 174. INDEX. 413 Pratola Pcligna 185. Preazzano 150. Presenzano 7. Presicce 203. Prezza 184. Prime Case 93. Priolo 348. Priora 149. Privernum 13. Prochyta 104. Procida 104. — , Canale di 101. — , Monte di 101. Promontorium Herculis 218. — lapygium 203. — Leucopetrae 218. — Minervae 148. — Pelorum 321. — Salentinum 203. Prossedi 13. Pudano 216. Pula 373. Puteolaneum 97. Puteoli 93. Q,uadriga di Mezzo 275. S. Quaranta 207. Quartu 373. 370. Quattro Arie 272. Quisisana 143. Racalmuto 299. Raddusa 301. Radicena 218. Ragattisi 285. Ragusa 304. Rahal Zabuth 289. Raiano 181. — Superiore 184. Raito 167. Rama, Capo di 277. Randazzo 332. Rapid 0, river 4. Rapolla 195. Ras el-Belat 283. Rasu, Monte 366. Ravello 170. Reate 176. Recanati 188. Reggio 222. Regi Lagni 11. Reginolo, river 167. Reitano, river 309. Rende S. Fili 219. Rendina, river 195. Resina 108. Resuttana 269. Retiro 15. Revigliano 142. Rhegium 223. Riace 217. Riardo 7. Ribera 289. Ricadi 221. Rieti 176. Bigano, Passo di 272. Rinella 324. Rinj^o, al 321. Riofreddo 181. Rionera 185. Rionero 195. Ripabottoni 191. Ripalimosano 191. Ripalta 191. Ripatransone 189. Ripattone 189. Riposto 330. Rivisondoli 185. S. Rizzo, Colle di 312. Rizzuto, Capo 216. Rocca, near Palermo 270. — Cinquemiglia 185. — di Corno 177. — di Cusa 283. — d’Evandro 7. — di Fondi 177. — Gorga 13. — Grande 292. — Imperiale 215. — di Mezzo 180. — Monfina 7. — Pia 185. — Ravindola 7. — di Sarno 291. — Secca 13. — Valloscura 185. Roccabernarda 216. Roccalumera 325. Roccapalumba 291. Roccarainola 173. Roccarasa 185. Roccasecca 3. Rocceletta, La 217. Roccella (Sicily) 308. — lonica 218. Rocchetta S. Antonio 194. Roggiano 219. Rogliano 219. Romagnano 209. Romano 181. Rometta 312. Rosa, Mte. 322. Rosamarina,Fiumara 310. Rosarno 221. Rose 219. Roseto 215. Rosolini 305. Rossano 215. Rotaro, Monte 107. Rotello 191. Roveto, Monte di 292. Val di 186. Roviano 181. Rovolo, Monte 333. Ruhi 197. Rudiae 203. Rugge 203. Rus-Melkarth 290. Rutigliano 200. Ruvo 197. Sabato, river 205. Sabdtus 220. Saccargia 376. 378. Sacco, river 2. Sadali 375. Saepinum 191. Sagittario 184. Sagras 217. Sagrus 185. 190. Sala Consilina 208. — (Catanzaro) 217. Salandra 210. Salandrella, river 210. Salemi 279. Salentino 214. Salerno 161. Salernum 162. Salina 324. — , Isola 324. 312. Saline 218. Salinella 334. Salto 182. Salvaticbi, Monte de’ 101. Salvatore, Monte (Cefalii) qns 907 — — ’ (Corfu) 389. 393. (Lipari Islands) 324. — dei Greci 321. Salvo, Monte 300. S. Salvo 191. Samassi 369. Sarabiase 221. Sambucca 289. Samnium 175. Sampler! 305. Sangro, river 185. 190. Sanluri 368. Sansone, Cbiesa di 211. Santeramo 195. Saponara 208. 312. Sapri 220. Sarcidano 376. Sardinia 363. Sarno 173. — , river 142. 158. 173. — Villa 92. 95. Sarrocb 373. Sassa 177. Sassari 376. Saticola 204. Sava 214. Saviano 173. Savignano 207. Savone, river 18. Savuto, river 220. Scafati 158. Scala 169. 171. 414 INDEX. Scala di Giocca 376. — , near Patti 310. Scaletta,nearl\avellol71. — , near Messina 325. Scalilli 289. 334. Scamander 278. Scanno 184. Scanzano 289. 215. Schioppo, Lo 186. Schiso, Gastello di 330. Sciacca 288. Sciara 291. Scicli 305. Scilla 222. Scisciano 173. Sclafani 291. Scoglitti 304. Scordia 302. Scurcola 181. Scutolo, Punta di 145. Scylaceum 217. JScylla 222. 227. S. Sebastiano (Vesuvius) 115. Sebeto, river 108. Sebkha er-Rouan 388. Segesta 278. 232. Segni 2. Sele, river 164.208. Selina, Torrente 326. Selinunte 280. Selinus 280. 233. Sella di Corno 177. Sella-Misilbesi 289. Sellia 216. Seminara 218. Sennori 377. Senorbi 375. Sepino 191. Serapeum, the 96. Serino 173. — , Lago di 209. Sermoneta 12. Serpeddi, Mte. 375. Serra 378. — della Spina 333. Serracapriola 191. Serradifalco 299. Serramanna 369. Serri 375. Sessa Aurunca 18. Sesto Campano 7. Setia 12. Settimo 375. Seui 375. S. Severo 191. Sevo, Pizzo di 189. Sezza 12. Sferracavallo 276. Sferro 301. Sgurgola 2. Sbikly, island 382. Sibari 215. Sibilla, Montagna della 175. 189. Sicci 375. Sicignano 208. Sicily 225. Sicoli 184. Siculiana 290. Siderno 218. Sidi-Bou-Said 388. Signia 2. Signora, la 308. Sikelia 226. Sila Mountains 220. 215. Silanus 367. Silarus 164. Siliqua 373. Silvi 190. Simaxis 367. Simeto 302. 347. — , river 301. 302. Simmeri 216. Sindia 367. Sinis 368. Sinnai 375. Sinno, river 209. 215. Sinnonia 14. Sinuessa 18. Sipontum 193. Siracusa 349. Sirens, Islands of the 148. Sirino, Monte 209. Sir is 209. 215. Soccavo 90. Solanto 275. Solaro^ Monte 156. 152. Solarussa 367. Soleminis 375. Soleto 203. Solfatara 95. Solfizio, Serra del 345. Solicchiata 332. Solmona 184. Soloeis 275. 233. Solofra 173. Solopaca 205. Soluntum 275. Solus 233. Somma, Monte 118.113.11. Sonnino 13. Sora 187. 3. Sorgono 376. Soriano 221. Sorrento 145. — , Piano di 145. Punta di 147. 148. — , Tore di 150. Sortino 307. S. Sostene 217. Sotir 292. Soverato 217. Spaccaforno 305. Spada, Monte 376. Spadafora 312. Spagnuola 285. Spampinato, Cava di 307. Sparagio, Monte 279. Sparanise 7. 18. Spartivento, Capo 218. 370. Sperlinga 291. Sperlonga 16. Sperone 173. Spezzano 209. 219. Spina, Monte 92. Spinazzola 195. Spinetoli 189. S. Spirito 198. (Sicily) 184. 299. Spoleto 189. Squillace 217. Squinzano 202. Stabiae 142. Staglino 202. Stagnone, Lo 284. Stampaci 305. S. Stefano 14. — del Bosco 221. — di Camastra 309. Sternatia 203. Stilo 217. Strato 85. Stromboli 324. Stroncone 176. Strongoli 216. Strongyle 324. Stufe, le 323. — di S. Germano 92. Subveni Homini 92. Suelli 375. Suessa Aurunca 18. Suessula 10. Sulcis 374. Sulmo 184. Surrentum 146. Su Suergiu 364. Sutera 292. — , Pizzo di 292. Sybaris 215. 218. Symaethus 347. Syraco 362. Syracuse 349. Acbradina 354. Agatbocles, House of 359. Agora 356. Altar of Hiero 357. Ampbi theatre 357. 355. Aqueducts 356. Ara 355. Arethusa, Fountain 354. Belvedere 359. Bouleuterium 355. Bufardeci, Giard. 356. Buffalaro 358. Capuchin Mon. 360. Catacombs^ 360. INDEX 415 Syracuse : Cathedral 363. City Wall 355. Oyane, Fountain 362. Due Fratelli 361. Ear of Dionysius 367. Epipolse 355. Euryelus 353. Ginnasio Romano 356. S. Giovanni 360. Grotta di Nettuno 361. Harbour, Great 355. — , Marble 355. — , Small 359. 350. 355. History 350. Hypogeum 360. Labdalon 359. 355. Latomia de’ Cappuccini 360. — Casale 360. — del Filosofo 358. — del Paradiso 357. 355. — Santa Venera 357. 355. Leon 359. Library 354. S. Lucia 360. St. Marcian 360. Market (Agora) 355.356. Mongibellesi 358. Monte Crimiti 356. Museum 353. Neapolis 355. Nymphseum 358. Olympieum 362. Ortygia 353. 354. Palaestra 355. Palazzo Montalto 354. Passeggiata Aretusa 354. Pentapylon 355. Pisma 362. Polichne 362. Post Office 349. Prytaneum 355. Scala Greca 361. Sinecchia 358. Street of Tombs 358. 355. Telegrafo 359. Temenites 355. Temple of Diana 354. — of Minerva 353. Theatre, Greek 357.355. Thymbris 359. 356. Timoleonteum 355. Tomb of Archimedes 361. — of Platen 360. — of Timoleon 361. Town Wall 355. Tyche 355. 361. Vigna Cassia 361. Syracuse : Villa Landolina 360. Wall of Dionysius 359. 355. Taburno, Monte 206. Tagliacozzo 181. Tagliavia 289. Tammaro, river 207. Tanager 208. Tanagro 208. Tanaro, river 191. Taormina 326. Taranto 211. Taras 211. Tarentum 211. Tarracina 13. Tarsia 219. Tauromenium 326. Taviano 203. Tavolara 366. Tavole Paladine, le 211. Tavoliere della Puglial92. 196. 197. Teano 7. Teanum Sidicinum 7. Teate Marrucinorum 186. Teggiano 208. Tegianum 208. Telepafo,' the (Capri) 154. — di Marecoccola 150. — , near Messina 312. — , near Palermo 268. — , near Sorrento 149. Telese 204. — , Lago di 204. Telesia 204. Tellaro, river 306. Tempio 366. Tenna, river 188. S. Teodoro 393. — , Grotto of 310. Teora 208. Teramo 189. S. Teresa 325. — Longarini 306. Terias 348. Terlizzi 197. Terme 93. Termini (Sicily) 290. — (Massa Lubrense) 148. Termoli 191. Terni 176. Terra di Bari 176. — di Lavoro 7. — d’Otranto 176. 201. Terracina 13. Terralba 368. Terranova (Sard.) 366. — (Calabria) 215. — (Sicily) 303. Terrasini 276. Terremorte 332. Tertenia 375. Terzigno 10. Teverone 181. Thapsus 348. ~ Tharros 368. Therasia 323. Thermae Himerenses 290. — Neronianae 98. — Segestanae 279. — Selinuntinae 288. Thermissa 323. Thurii 215. Thymbris 356. Tiberio, Villa di 155. Tifata, Mons 9. Tifernus 191. Tigliana, La 149. Tindaro, Capo 311. Tinnura 367. Tirso 366. 367. — , the 366. 368. Tissa 332. Tissi 376. Tito 209. Tolerus 2. Tommaso Natale 276. Tonara 368. 376. Torano 219. Tordino, river 189. 190. Torino di Sangro 190. Tornimparte 177. Toro, II 374. Torralba 366. Torre Annunziata 111. — Cerchiara 215. — di Chiunzo 159. — de’ Confini 15. — deir Epitafio 15. — del Filosofo 346. — di Gaveta 102. — di Gerace 218. — del Greco 110. — de’ Leg^i 286. — del Marcello 349. — Melissa 216. — di Milo 219. — de’ Passeri 186. Torrecuso 205. Torregaveta 102. Torremare 210. Tortoli 375. Tortoreto 189, Tovere 169. Trabia 290. Tragara, Punta 154. Traina, Foresta di 33 Tramonti, Val 159. Trani 197. Trapani 285. 228. Trappeto 277. Trebisacce 215. Trecastagne 331. Tre Fratelli 144. library Nazarene College KANKAKEE. ILL. 416 INDEX. Treienta 375. Tremestieri 325. Tremiti Islands, tlie 191. Trepuzzi 202. Trerus 2. Tresnuraghes 367. Tres Tabernae 12. Trevi, Monte 13. Tricarico 210. Tricase 203. Triglio, II 213. Trigno, river 191. Trinacria 226. Trinita della Cava 160. — della Delia 280. Trinitapoli 196. Trinius 191. Triocala 289. Trionto, river 216. Tripi, Pizzo di 311. Trivigno 210. Trogilus 349. Troia 207. Troina 301. Tronto, river 189. Tropea 221. Trotilon 348. Truentus 189. Tufo 174. Tunis 382. Tuoro Grande 154. Turris Lybissonis 378. Tuturano 202. Tyndaris 311. UfFente, river 13. Uggento 203. Umberto - Margberita, Monte 343. Uras 368. Uria 214. Ururi 191. Usini 376. Ussassai 375. Ustica 275. Uta 373. Utica 388. Uxentum 203. Vacca, La 374. Vaglio 210. Vairano 7. Valcorrente 334. Valdese 269. S. Valentino 186. Valetta, la 380. Valguarnera 301. Valle, La 160. — di Pompei 158. Valledolmo 298. Vallelunga 298. Valmontone 2. Valsavoia 347. 302. Valverde 331. Vandra, river 185. Vandria 185. Varano 188. Vasto 191. — d’Aimone 191. Velino 177. — , Monte 181. — , river 176. 189. Velitrae 11. Velletri 11. Venafro 7. S. Venera 332. Venerella, Monte 330. 326. Venetico 312. Venosa 195. Ventotene 14. Venusia 195. Vergine, Monte 174. 324. Veroli 3. S. Vero Mills 368. Verulae 2. 3. Vervece 148. Vesevus^ Mons 113. Vespasia 177. Vesuvius, Mount 112. Vettica Maggiore 171. — Minore 169. 171. Via Appia 13. — Campana 97. — Gumana 97. — Herculea 97. — Latina 2. 5. — Puteolana 97. — Valeria 181. Viagrande 331. 347. Vibinum 207. Vibo Valentia 221. Vico 193. — Alberi 150. — Alvano 150. — Equense 144. Vicus Aequensis 144. Vido 389. Viesti 193. Vietri 161. 209. Vigliano 177. Viglio, Monte 186. Vigne 366. Villa S. Giovanni 222. — Grazia 273. — Jovis 154. — Lusciano 97. — Nuova 368. 370. Villabate 289. Villafrati 289. Villagrande 375. Villalba 298. Villanovatulo 375. Villarosa 299. Villasor 369. Villazzano 148. Vinchiaturo 191. Vinius 4. S. Vitaliano 173. Vitello, II 374. S. Vito, Capo (Taranto) 211 . (Sicily) 277. — Lanciano 190. — d’Otranto 201. S. Vittore 6. Vittoria 304. S. Vittorino 179. 190. Vitulano 206. Vivara 104. Vizzini Licodia 302. Volcanello 324. Volcano 323. Volturno, river 7. 204. Vomano, river 190. Vomanus 190. Vomero 82. 89. Vulcania 323. Vulcaniae 322. Vulture, Monte 194. 'XSphonia 348. Xirbi 299. Zaera 315. Zaflferana, Capo 275. — (^tna) 346. Zagarolo 2. Zagbouan 389. Zancle 232. 314. Zannone 14. Zapulla, Fiumara 310. Zisa, La 267. Zolfare 299. Zollino 203. Zucco 277. Leipsic : Printed by Breitkopf Hartel. I G e ograplx-An-s tsQlT.'Wa^er D eb e s , Leip zi^ .