977.334 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY AT UR2ANA CHAMPAIGN 'LL. HIST. SURVEY Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign http://archive.org/details/historicgalenayeOObale i£x ^ & f1 " ^ -£r£ks>*4r^ Historic Galena YESTERDAY AND TODAY 1820 1939 V^ C? PRINTED BY SKOKIE PRESS WAUKEGAN. ILLINOIS 19 3 8 sis* i / ^v 7°< >ld On the evening of De- cember 27, 1926, in this old Colonial home, Pris- cilla Mullens Chapter, D. A. R. of Galena, celebrat- ed the Centennial Anni- versary of the naming ni their historic town, which was done on a far away December day in 1836 (December 27). The name Galena was selected by a majority vote of thirty men — its meaning (sulfide of lead) being significant of the locality. The ancestors of the majority of the members had been early day set- tlers in Galena and Jo Daviess County. They had forged their way over hazardous, unbroken highways to found a new home. Coming fro m over the Atlantic Ocean, New England, and the far South into the dangerous lead mine district that was peopled by Indians These ancestors treasured the memories of their lives 120 North Bench St and adventurers. and experiences, and their descendants related them at this meeting. The names of these pioneers are allied with the history of Jo Daviess County and Illinois, as well as the nation. They were Chetlain (Switzerland), Gra- tiot (St. Louis), Soulard (St. Louis), Newhall (Massachusetts), Jackson (Maryland), Haines (Massachusetts), Benton (New York), Bruner (Penn- sylvania), Hoskins (England), Hunkins (New England), Spensley (Eng- land), Roberts (England), Hempstead (Connecticut), Washburne (Maine). Florence Gratiot Bale, at whose home the meeting was held, (as Chapter Historian) gathered data, traditions and history of Old Galena, and pub- lished a booklet "Galena's Century Milestone." It was so well received that a permanent Galena book has been published since then. It has been most gratifying that these booklets, telling of Galena's historic days have served as a guide to the hundreds of tourists, artists and old-time residents of Galena, who wander over its hills, re-peopling the old buildings with these fearless pioneers who made its history so lasting. To follow the story of Galena and the part it had in the development of the Northwest when it was the center of the great Mining District, you are asked to refer to the pictures of its early days in this book. They are all authentic, made from drawings, water colors, oil paintings and originals belonging to Galena families. They will point the way to each important location in the little journey you may make over its crooked streets, steep steps and verdue covered hill sides. Seeing Galena with an understanding of its history will enhance the pleasure of the travelers' visit and for this purpose the book is published. F. G. B. 'January's Point 1824" — First Location of the Town of Galena HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY " 5 * W:T~-iiC Burton's Lead Smelter — 1830 GALENA'S YESTERDAYS With the background of over a century of history, Galena in Jo Daviess County stands apart from other towns in Illinois, and bears the distinction of being one of the oldest, as well as one of the most beautiful little cities ; its story of "early days" is full of the romance that adventure, discovery, Indian warfare, and pioneer life always bring to a tale of years gone by, and "Galena's yesterdays" recall, not only the great lead mines that made it famous in the 18th and 19th centuries, but the names of many distin- guished men who became national heroes. In 1820 the great treck to the mines of the Northwest began, and thou- sands drifted to the locality of Galena from all over the world, to try their fortune in the rich but crude mines that were discovered about 1700 by a Frenchman named La Suer, who, in ascending the Mississippi River, en- countered Indians working rude mines that produced lead. He described the location as "on a small river that entered the 'great river' in its east bank," and in his official report called it the "River of Mines." The Fox and Sac Indians had pitched their tepees on a high bluff that rose from the river named by them "La Fevre" ; for years the settlement was called "La Point." In 1824, a trader came from Kentucky whose name was Thomas January. He established a trading post on this hill top which was then known as "January's Point." Soon the village moved down nearer the river with the mines and smelters near by, and the first location was abandoned. In 1826, a town with lots was laid out. There was a population of 400, mostly Indians, traders and miners, a few log cabins that housed the fam- ilies of the traders and the miners lived in rude shacks and tents, all hud- dled on the River Front and a few on the higher level above it. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY The first stone house was built by John Dowl- ing and his son, Nicho- las, in 1826. These men came from St. Louis, and in the little stone house (which is standing uninhabited today on Di- agonal St.) they had a store com- bined with their dwell- ing place, First Stone House— Built in 1826 BiBpiiiili — which was quite the center of the social and commercial life in that frontier community. By their business ability, the Dowlings were able to branch out into a more substantial building for their trading post in 1831. They built this stone structure on Main Street across from their own home. It had a large hall on the second floor, a room for a school in the basement and was called "Dowlings Stone Store." In 1838, for the "winter season " Joseph Jefferson, his wife and troup of players, with little "Joe" (who afterwards became the fa- g mous actor) put on plays in if the hall. The opening per- formance was "Wives as they are and Maids as they were." The admission was $1.00. Young Joe took part in these performances, and attended school in the base- ment school room. In 1836, the town bought half of the building for a Court House, and it was used for that purpose until the present one was built in 1844. Nicholas Dowling was "Galena's second wealthiest man." The Galena Daily Courier spoke of him in that manner when it pub- lished his obituary, March 29, 1860. Records in the Jo Daviess County Court House estimated his estate at $100,000— and that was wealth in that early day. ' ■■■■..■■■■■ ■ 'Dowlings Stone Store" HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY Site of the Block House 1832, Horse Shoe Mound in Distance > The Winnebago uprising in 1830 was followed by the Black Hawk War in 1832. The town became a fortified military camp, with a block house , garrisoned by United States Troops on Prospect Hill . Martial law was declared by Colonel Strode who was in command of the Block House. A runway was built from the military post to a refuge in an underground room in Amos Farmer's log house (on what is now Perry Street). This under- ground refuge and the log house are incorporated in Miss Margaret Gardeners Home, and are one of Galena's prized heirlooms. Black Hawk never attacked the Fort at Galena ; from Horse Shoe Mound he saw the soldiers and guns at the Block House on the Galena Hill, and fearing them fled to "Council Hill" where a treaty conducted by Col. Henry Gratiot and others was held on the site of "The Branton Tavern." W\ mi T {I II' 1^ Home of Margaret Gardner — Old Underground Refuge 1832 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY The Dowling Home — 1847 business), Mrs. Margaret Mayburn, Mrs. Eliza Chamberlin, Mrs. Hemp- sted Gratiot, and The William Grant Bales. This view of Galena's "Main Street" and business district in 1844, with its wares dis- played on the sidewalk, is evidence that the town was living up to the stride of com- mercial progress that came with its important location. It was the central point for the river traffic between St. Louis and Ft. Snelling. It had Fort Armstrong (Rock Island) to the south and Fort Crawford (Prairie du Chi en) to the north. They were the out- standing military posts on the western frontier. The increas- ing population rivaled youthful Chicago, that was to the east of it, from which place the Frink and Walker Stage line made a semi-weekly trip to Galena with the depot at the foot of Lake Street in Chicago. In the recent Hist oric American Build- ings survey conducted by the Department of the Interior, many of the splendid early homes in Galena were immortalized. Typical of them is this old one built by Nicholas Dowling, son of James Dowling, in 1847. The years have enhanced its beauty. Janet Aver Fairbank made it the home of Abby-Delight, the heroine in her novel "The Bright Land." During the years that have passed, this old home has been owned by C. W. Perkins (a partner in the Grant Main Street 1844 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY ; ♦. gMffiMBBSS "Bouthilliers' Ferry" Crossed the River Until 1844 When Foot Bridge was Built In the "Archives of Prairie du Chien Mission," preserved in St. Mary's Col- lege, Montreal, Canada, is found this statement : "Fevre. River in Illinois, a small stream on which Ga- lena is situated six miles from its outflow into the Mississippi. It derived its name from an early French trader named La Fevre — this name became 'Fever' and its suggestion of ill health was not pleasant so it was called as it is officially to- day, 'Galena River'." One of the first hotels accommodating the rapidly The De Soto Hotel Built in 1855 Union House — 1839 increasing population (now 10,000) was the "Union House" built of logs in 1839. It faced the river and was the landing and starting point for "All Mississippi Steamers" going south and north. Its steps lead to the landing on the river. The old hotel is still standing, and has been converted into a very fine type of home. At the end of the "40's," the importance of a better hotel was needed, and the De Soto House was built by a group of citizens on Main Street, in 1855. It has many historic associations. Abraham Lincoln addressed a great mass meeting from its balcony in 1856 ; General Grant held many important conferences in a favorite room ; and Jenny Lind, the Swedish Nightingale, gave a concert in the great dining room in 1864. The tickets were $1.00. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY ■ Galena in 1845 In 1845, Galena was the most important commercial point on the Mis- sissippi River north of St. Louis. All steamers came to Galena as they went up or down the great water highway, and as many as eighteen were anchored on the Levee at the same time — loading and unloading their freight and making a busy mart of the river front. One writer describing Galena at this time said : "There is mud in the streets knee deep, the log, frame and stone buildings are all huddled together along the river front ; boats are landing their freight and passengers, or unloading them, everything is lively and noise and good nature abounds." The population was fifteen thousand at this time. Many of the original stone houses and old rock dwellings are standing- today. As one looks at these old buildings, the thought comes, and the wish with it, that they could become animated and their walls give us a picture of the days of the past as they saw it in the early life of the quaint old town; when the largest boat came up or down the Mississippi, also came up the Fevre River to the landing in Galena. If such a panorama could be seen, the review would have many noted historic personages in it ; for General LaFayette on his way to Fort Crawford from St. Louis, came to the landing but did not leave the boat. Lieut. Jefferson Davis, Zachary Taylor, Charles Sumner, the great J. J. Hill of railroad fame, Martin Van Buren, United States President ; Joseph Smith, the Mormon Elder from Navoo ; and "Dolly" Madison, wife of the Fourth President of the U. S. A., visited Galena on her way to Fort Snelling, danced at a ball given at the home of Jean Pierre Gratiot. Mrs. Alexander Hamilton spent a winter at the "Gratiot Mansion House," coming from Philadelphia to visit her son William, who was min- ing in Wisconsin at "Hamiltons Diggings." Prince de Joineville, Royalty of the House of Bourbon spent the winter of 1839 in Galena. He boarded at the old "Union House" on the east side of the river, and tales are told of his being a "jolly good fellow" in spite of Royal blood and intrigues of the French Court. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY Galena in 1856 Heirlooms Architectural heirlooms are many in this quaint old town. Gray stone churches over one hundred years old ; lovely old homes with leaded glass windows, and marvelous stained glass over arched doorways with iron and brass hinges and polished knock- ers on the doors ; all telling of the type of cultured Pioneers who found- ed Galena. But one by one, these fine I old mansions are passing from the old families into the newer life of the old town. Some are too large for present day living and are made into a two- family house. Others are still oc- cupied by the descendants of their early owners. "The Houses In the Hills" "They stand here and there Upon the hills In remote places above the city's streets Houses of dreams The homes of pioneers. When they came to build their homes of rest It was the highest hills they chose Where round about Their vision still might seek unchecked To the far horizons they so loved." J- P- G. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY (BEHOAMPBEUJ Steamboats landing on the "Levee" as it zvas when The Grants arrived in April, 1860 "What makes a city great? True glory dwells where great deeds are done Where great men rise whose names athwart the dusk Of misty centuries and gleam like the sun." — Foulke. "In April, 1860," to quote from Hamlin Garland's "Life of Grant." "men stood on the levee watching the steamer 'Itasca' while she nosed her way up the tortuous current of the Galena River ; as she swung up to the wharf, attention was attracted to a passenger on the deck wearing a blue cape overcoat. As the boat struck the landing this man rose and gathered a number of chairs together, evidently part of his household furniture. 'Who is that?' asked one man of a friend on the river bank. 'That is Capt. Grant, Jesse Grant's oldest son ; he was in the Mexican War— he is moving here from St. Louis,' was the reply. "Capt. Grant took a couple of chairs in each hand and walked ashore with them. His wife, a small alert woman, followed him with her little flock (four children, Frederick, Ulysses, Jesse and daughter, Nellie). The carrying of the chairs ashore signified that Ulysses Simpson Grant had become a resident of Galena." The Grants rented a very unpretentious two-story brick house on one of the steep hills that rose to a high elevation from Main and Bench Streets ; the street was appropriately called "High," for to reach it a long flight of wooden steps had to be climbed. This slow method of returning home from the business section on Main Street each day must have been conducive to the forming of many deep friendships, and visiting with each other shortened the climb and doubtless cemented the deep attachment that Grant had for his friends on "the hill." HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY The Grant Home on High Street From this home Capt. Grant answered the call of his country in 1861. In a few days Grant was established in his father's Leather Store at 120 Main Street. This store was an outlet for the tannery owned by the elder Grant at Covington, Kentucky, and his younger sons were in charge of the Galena business. They were Simpson and Jesse. In 1861, a few months after -the outbreak of the war, Simpson died in Galena of tuberculosis and is buried in Galena's Greenwood cemetery. Another brother, Orville, then became head of the firm which later removed from the original store in the Coatsworth building to a location a block east and it was then known as the Grant & Perkins Leather Store, but it was in the store in the Coatsworth building that Grant became a clerk and quietly and faithfully performed his daily task that brought him the sum of $600.00 a year. This classicly designed building was erected in 1858 under the plans and the di- rection of Ely S. Parker, a young civil engineer from New York (he was a full blooded Indian). The "Marine Hospital" erected in 1856 was also built by him. They were for govern- ment use, the first, the Custom House, for the river traffic, and the second, the Hospital, for the use of men who needed hospitalization from the river boats. The Custom House is now the United States Post Office in Galena. 10 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY General Grant in Galena 1. The high school steps are very long; Up to the mist above the mound They rise because he builded them To walk upon. . . Step, step At night, and scuffling on the dusty ground. Half-baked cigars I knew he smoked And though the air were rich or thin Step, step. His mottled garments Beat the wind, And like a common man he walked. The north hill, the south hill And all along the seven hills Which lift beyond. No ivy vine Was free from his caressing hands. I saw a wall, a roseate glare, And knew he moved therein And crushed the grass. Turn out! Congeal on parade, You fools! Not every town Will see a warrior pass. 3. And Pilot Knob had shuddered up Its shoulder at a thousand boats ; Ten thousand anxious eyes had glimpsed Its round. Up there he walked with bugles Through a lane of purple coats : "It's well," he tritely spat, and struck A match. Oh, ride to Vicksburg Where the cannon smoke! Galena slept, and bats came out To dance above the dawning street, Step, step. . . In bricky ghostliness We met . . . and no one knows it (For the neighbors were asleep, I said; The Campbells, Kittoes, Rowleys were All deep in midnight wells.) But oh, the magic splutter Of a wet cigar ■ the psychic mirth Of shadows grim ; I paused saluted No one knows it. But . . . I held a match for him ! — MacKinlay Kant or. Published in Chicago Tribune Linotype Column HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY M ■ " : ■--"*-■ ■ Store of Grant and Perkins on Main Street, 1863. C. E. Perkins, a friend of the Grants, bought an interest in the firm. After C. E. Perkins became a pardner in the Grant Leather Store — the business was moved a block down Main Street into The old Grant store on Main Street, 1860; now the Coatszvorth building and store, marked by the Daughters of the American Revolution, Prise ilia Midlins Chapter, April 27, 1938. a three story building — as the wholesale end was expanding and more room was reqiured. The original bill of goods is the valued property of C. E. Venable the son of W. W. Venable who had a Harness and Saddelry Shop on Main Street ; the bill has great historic value for it not only has the signature of the father of U. S. Grant but the brothers who were associated in the firm. IdUJ^M^. J. R. GRANT, i€ftf»ER FREHCH * PHILADELPHIA ' DBA1EK IN J^&Sl tEATBE&SAMJUEY HARDWARES \* XT $"? A.rac PAID FOBHIDES^KINSAND FELTS. 6\< Sfy (%M. £9 ?r &*9 3^ jP?2-'r Bill of Goods Signed by U. S. Grant, Just Before He Left for the War 12 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY ^m ^ 1 | ' ' im: :: $:^0€km : %mm»^ 7 m m ■Is .■■-" N'T/" 1 :n 2 it HE:: ..._". /o Daviess County Court House — 18394- - ^jl o ■' The old court house zvas designed and built under the supervision of the pioneer Catholic missionary, Rev. Father Samuel Mazzuchclli. In April, 1861, Capt. U. S. Grant offered his services at a mass meeting in the court room after zvar zvas declared. Galena was like every city, town, and village in the states above the Mason and Dixon line on April 12, 1861, when news of the firing on Fort Sumter came to it. Closely following the first news, the electric wires flashed the story of its capture, and on the fifteenth, came Lincoln's proclamation and his call for seventy-five thousand men to save the Union. A mass meeting was at once called to sustain the President and enlist men for service. One can visualize the patriotic and tense gathering of the male portion of the town as they went to the old court house the evening of the 18th of April, fired with national pride as well as indignation. Owing to his West Point training and military experience in the Mexican War, Grant was asked to preside as chair- man. There were many men in that gathering who knew the quiet, undemon- strative man only as a "clerk in Grant's leather store." One man in the audi- ence objected to Grant's presiding at the meeting, inasmuch as he came from St. Louis, and it was reported that his wife, Julia Dent Grant, had been the owner of two slaves, and so her husband must have sympathy for the south. Honorable Elihu B. Washburne, Republican member of Congress, hotly replied to this remark, "Any man who will try to stir up party prejudices at such a time as this is a traitor to his country." John A. Rawlins, a young lawyer, made a characteristic speech — and ended with the stirring and remembered sentence, "We will stand by the flag of our country and appeal to the God of Battles for support." HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 13 General U. S. Grant Galena's Nine Civil War Generals and Officers "Thou dist hear thy country's calling, Illinois, Illinois, Mid the din of war appal I in;/, Illinois, Illinois." General Ulysses Simpson Grant John A. Rawlins John C. Smith William R. Rowley Augustus L. Chetlain Jasper E. Maltby Ely S. Parker John E. Smith John R. Duer Melanchon Smith (Lieut. Col.) Edward D. Kittoe (Lieut. Col.) Bushrod Brush Howard (Capt.) Hill Street Home of John A. Razvllns — 1861 Galena General John A. Rawlins was born and reared in Galena. Practicing law at the time of enlisting in the service of his country. He was chief on Grant's staff; a Major-General and Secy, of War under Grant's administra- tion, died during that period at the age of 37. He was buried in Arlington Cemetery with the highest honors his nation could bestow. General John A. Rawlins 14 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY General John C John Corson Smith— 1886 Smith was a close friend of Grant. Their friendship was formed in Galena and continued through their lives. He was a contracting* carpenter and builder in Galena and Dubuque. His military career became notable for his splendid, fearless courage. He was brevetted "for gallantry" by President Lincoln as Colonel in 1865, and as Brigadier-General by President Jackson in June of the same year. He served his State as Treasurer and in 1884 was elected Lieutenant-Governor. William R. Rowley, Clerk of the Circuit Court of Jo Daviess, made Brigadier-General and Provost Marshall on Gent's staff. General Rowley's health failed him before the close of the conflict and he was unable to remain with the Army until the end of hostilities, so returned to his home in Galena. He was one of Grant's closest friends and un- til his death in 1886 the home of Rowley was often visited by his Commander and a warm personal friend- ship existed between the families. Rowley's home on Hill Street was next to General Rawlins. Hill Street Home of Gen. W. R. Rowley — 1861 Galena HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 15 m tamMr % ' # " ' ' ! is*!! Bpiillii The Chetlain Homestead, built in 1832 is in a remarkable state of preservation. This fine old home is on ground bought from the government in 1836 for $4.00 per acre. The house was built by Louis Chetlain, who lived in it until his death in 1872. His son, Augustus L. Chetlain was born on this farm, and was the gallant Captain of the first Volunteer Company of Galena. He was commissioned Lieut- enant-Colonel, May 2, 1861 ; Brigadier- General, December, 1863. After the war he served his country as Consul General to Belgium, and spent the latter years of his life in Chicago. General Augustus L. Chetlain — 1881 16 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY / Kr Tt m*. ■ H 1 1 * Br ,1 \*J - ? sfB^^Ttflf * -Si • L>mMMk*