Ctarning anb ^abor. LIBRARY University of Illinois. CLASS. BOOK. VOLUME. Accession No. ,.... r- '-T '' Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/reportofoperatio00nuni_0 REPORT OF THE ON THE YUKON RIVER STATION, ALASKA, 1890 - 1901 . BY Lieiat. .T. C. C^TvTTWKlI.L, P?. C. S., Commandmy. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1 9 0 2 . Treasury Department. Document No. 2276. Division of Revenue-Cutter Service. COI^ TEXTS. Page. Letters of transmittal 5 Department orders 7 Pakt I— narrative. Chapter I, Introduction — Description of the Xummk — Necessity for a vessel of the Revenue-Cutter Service on the Yukon River — Arrange- ments for the voyage of the vessel to her station — Dex)arture from San Francisco 19 Chapter II. Incidents of the voyage of the Nunivak from San Francisco to St. Michael 23 Chapter III. Arrival at St. Michael — Preparations for the journey uj) the Yukon River — Departure from St. Michael and incidents of the first season’s work on the station — Selection of winter quarters for the command in Dali River and laying uj) of the vessel at the end of the active season 35 Chapter IV. First winter at Fort Shoemaker — Incidents of life in winter quarters — House building — 'Work of the command — Sled trips — Opening of spring — Departure from Fort Shoemaker.. 47 Chapter V. Resumption of duties on the Yukon River — Enforcement of law and order — Reconnoissance of the Koyijkuk River — Assistance rendered steamer Leah — Return to St. Michael for supplies — Quarantine duty at St. Michael — Departure from St. Michael and return to regular duties on the Yukon — Assistance rendered sick and destitute natives — Return to Fort Shoemaker and close of the second season of open navi- gation 59 Chapter VI. Incidents of life at Fort Shoemaker during the second year of its occupancy as winter (]uarters — Description of the breaking ux> of the ice in the spring 75 Chapter VII. Abandonment of Fort Shoemaker and resumption of active cruising on the station — Incidents of our third season’s plied to vour shiY)'s coniYxinv will be arranged for through the commanding officers of the and TJtetis^ the same to l)e delivered to you at St. Michael, and, in view of the extraordinaiT services recpiired of the vessel, the cost of said clothing will not be charged against the officers and men this year. 13 . You are infoirmed that Surgeon Call, of the Heat\ will join ^mu at St. Michael on the return of that vessel from the Arctic. Should vou have another surgeon on th(‘ AIo/ /vv/Z* at that time yon will direct him to reY)ort to the commanding officer of the Bear, relieving Dr. Call. 12 14, Should officers of the Coast and Geodetic Survey. Fish Com- mission. Steamboat-Inspection Service, or other accredited Govern- ment officials apply to you for passage on the river or accommodations on board while you are in winter quarters you will extend the same to such, but with the distinct understanding that neither yourself nor the officers of your command are to be put to any personal expense by reason of their presence on board. 15. The importance of making ample provision for food supply for your command to last until at least September. 1900. or until fresh supplies can be sent you. should engage your serious consideration, and to this end you will consider the kind, quality, quantity, and cost of the food you desire, whether in canned goods or barreled. It is suggested that an ample supply of canned vegetables, sauerkraut in barrels, if obtainable, to serve as antiscorbutics, are essential. You are directed, upon your arrival at Seattle, to inmiediately ascertain and wire the Department the quantities of food supply you will require, not only for yourself, officers, and crew, but for the relief of emergent cases that may arise, stating the lowest cost, lirst obtaining proposals, which you will forward to the Department by mail, after the authority to purchase shall have been given. In submitting to the Department vouchers for the supplies which you may be hereafter authorized to purchase, you will see that the same bear date of July 1 next, as the articles are intended for use in the next fiscal year. You will be careful to see that all vouchers are properly prepared, certified, and forwarded prior to the departure of the from Puget Sound. Respectfully, yours. O. L. Spaulding. Gxs - ista n t Secretary. Lieut, d. C. Cantwell. K. C. S. . Coran landing T . S. S. Jiajilrai, San FrancUco. Cat. COPY OF ORDERS OF DETACHMENT FROM COMMAND OF U. S. S. NUNIVAK. Treasury Department. Office of the Secretary. Div ision of Revenue- Cutter Service. ^Va!y S. 1902. Sir: Referring to letters, addressed to you under this date, relative to the sale of the Fanirai. or otherwise laying the vessel up at the close of the season, you will, in either case, consider yourself detached and proceed with the least delay and lyv the most direct route, or by the one entailing the least necessary expense, to your home in San Francisco. Cal., announcing your arrival there by wire to the Depart- ment. You will forward your extra baggage l)v some one of the ves- sels of the service: otherwise by freight. Before leaving the Xanicai, 13 if the vessel is not sold, you will armng-e with the officer left in charo'e to have such work done during- the Avinter months as can ])e done by the force on l)oard. You Avill also provide yourself with a complete memorandum of the needs and requirements of the vessel if retained to put her in efficient state for service in the waters about St. Michael next summer, taking all necessary dimensions and making description for htments of both hull and machinery. Herewith are transmitted orders for Lieutenants Camden, Blake, and Wheeler. Assistant Engineer Lewton, and Dr. White, Avhich you will deliA^er to those atfected when it shall be determined who is to remain in charge. Bespectfully, O. L. Spaulding, . Ls-.s (sta7) t Secret aril. First Lieut. ,1. C. Cantwell, R. C. S., Comma )}ding U. S. S. ]Yaniral\ St. 2[lcJaieU Alasl‘((. COPY OF ORDERS DIRECTING THAT A REPORT OF THE OPERATIONS OF THE U. S. S. NUNIVAK. ON THE YUKON RIVER STATION, BE MADE. Treasury Department. Office of the Secretary, Washengtoa^ October 2, 1901. Sir: Referring to your telegram reporting your arrival at San Francisco, you are directed to prepare, as soon as practicalile, a full report of the operations of the JS^anccaJi Avhile under your command, and transmit the same to the Department. While in the performance of this duty you will l)e allowed commu- tation for quarters. You will acknowledge the receipt hereof and advise the Department of your address. Respectfully, O. L. Spaulding, Acting Secretary. Lieut. J. C. Cantwell, R. C. S., Care of Appraiser d Building^ San FrancAco^ Cat. OFFICERS OF THE COMMAND. First Lieut, fl. C. Cantwell, R. C. S., commanding. Second Lieut. B. H. Camden, R. C. S. , executive officer Third Lieut. W. J. Wheeler, R. C. S. Third Lieut. Eugene Blake, jr. , R. C. S. Assistant Engineer II. N. Wood, R. C. S. Assistant Engineer T. C. Lewton, R. C. S. Surg. J. T. White, R. C. S. REVENUE STEAMER NUNIVAK AT RAMPART. EEPORT OF THE OPERATIONS OF THE U. S. RETEXUE STEAMER NUNIYAK ox THE YUKON RIVEK STATION, ALASKA, 1 899-1901 BY Fii’st Lieut. ,7. C. CAiVLWLLL, R. C. S., Commanding. 5661 — 03 2 15 OFFICERS OF THE U. S. S. NUNIVAK. Reading: from the rig:ht are First Lieut. J. C. Cantwell. Second Lieut. B. H. Camden. Asst. Engineer T. G. Lewton, Third Lieut. W. J. Wheeler. Third Lieut, huigene Blake, and Surgeon J. T. White. I. NARPvATI VE. CHAPTER I. Prior to the discovery of the rich deposits of g'old along the Klondike River, Alaska, the entire business traffic of the vast valley of the Yukon River was conducted by two competing trading companies having sta- tions situated at convenient places on the j-iver, and the supplies neces- sary for their maintenance were annually delivered by means of small steamers which ascended the Yukon from St. Michael, on the coast, at which place both companies maintained depots for the distribution of goods received from the outside in ocean-going vessels. The white population of the Yukon was composed only of the agents and traders of the companies and a few scattering prospectors who, as a rule, made their way into the country over the Chilkat or Chilkoot passes to the headw^aters of the Yukon, remained during the short summer season searching for gold, and then drifted down the river to take passage on some ocean-going vessel bound for the States. A few more hardy or persistent gold hunters would remain in the country during the long winter, if they could secure employment, or their stock of supplies warranted such a step, l)ut by fai* the greater number were content to enter and leave the country during the summer season. Although gold had been discovered in Alaska previoush" to the Klondike discovery in 1897, notably so in the vicinity of Circle City and Fortymile River, it was not until that year that the prospects of rich diggings were sufficiently good to encourage any l)ut the most sanguine to undertake the journey into this land of terrible cold and unknown difficulties and to endure the hardships inseparable from a life in this region in the search for the yellow metal. But the discov- ery of the marvelously rich deposits of gold in the gravel })eds of the Klondike and its tributary streams set the world aflame with excite- ment. For upward of twenty years the reports of the presence of gold in this region had somewhat prepared the public for the news of George Carmack’s rich strike on the Klondike; l)ut it is probable that no one foresaw the extent of the migration of gold seekers into the territory which followed. So great was the rush of people to the newly discovered gold fields that the trading companies found themselves utterly unable at first to move the immense amount of freight and passengers which accumu- lated as if b}" magic at every point on the river and its tributaries 19 20 accessible from the outside. The excitement was so great and the desire on the part of adventurous people to reach the new Eldorado was so intense that fabulous sums were paid for passage on the few steamers at that time available. To meet the demands of this sudden and overwhelming increase of business the managers of the Alaska Commercial Companv and the North American Trading and Transpor- tation Company utilized the vast resources of their respective corpora- tions with the greatest energy, and in an incredibh^ short time each company built and equipped a new fleet of river steamers to be oper- ated on the Yukon River. But the two pioneer companies were not to be left in undisturbed possession of the held. New companies were formed all over the country, and the resources of the whole Pacific coast were taxed to the utmost to supply steamers for service on the Yukon. Owing to the entire lack of materials and facilities for the construction of vessels on the river or at any place on the coast near its mouth, this work had to be done in the States, and the vessels when completed were towed to St. Michael by ocean tugs. Some of the vessels were built on the island of Unalaska. one of the Aleutian group, where shipvards were hastih’ made, but by far the greater number were built at ports on Puget Sound, and even as far south as San Fran- cisco new steamers were l)uilt. and old ones which had outlived their age of usefulness in other fields were pressed into service, hastily repaired, and sent to the Yukon to engage in the new traffic on the river. It is but natural to suppose that under the circumstances attending their hasty construction or repair and the subsequent exposure to the strains and injuries incident to a sea voyage of from 3.0een hoping all day that the Avind and sea would go down toward night and the creAv could be given a chance to obtain some much needed rest: but with this new complication and a con- tinuance of the head wind I felt certain that all the AA^ork AA’hich had been preA'iously done would be but trifling when compared Avith that to be done later if the leak should proA^e to be a serious one. An examination of the hold of the A'essel disclosed the fact that the water Avas coming in through the seams of the bottom planking in the vicinity of the seat of the king-post. The violent motions of the A’essel as she plunged in the sea simply made of the king-post an immense battering ram, and its doAvnAvard thrust against the bottom planking had so loosened them that the AA*ater was pouring into the A'essel by the barrel. The steam pumps were immediately brought into requisition and for a time successfulh' controlled the inflow of Avater: but the Auolent motion of the ship caused the steam pipes to break, and soon it became necessary to call the already weary creAV to the hand pumps. From that time until we reached the harbor of Eureka, Cal., on the third day from our departure from San Francisco, it Avas simply a race between the men and the sea as to which aaouFI control the vessel. From the time of the discovery of the first leak hardly an hour passed that a neAv one AAas not reported, and by the evening of the second daA' at sea the oakum in the sides from the stem to a distance of 40 feet aft on each side was all loose, and in some cases entireh" 25 spewed out of the seams, leaving openings through which the water poured in cataracts into the vessel. Meanwhile constant reports of our condition were signaled to the commanding officer of the limit ^ and 1)}^ a judicious handling of his ship and the free use of oil to smooth the sea before it reached the Nunivak he did all that could be done to protect us from further injury. It was 1113" earnest desire to get the vessel through to Seattle, where arr^ingements had been made to take on some additional sup- plies, with as little dehi}" as possible, but on the morning of the third da}^ at sea one leg of the towing bridle parted and a dehn^ of three hours was necessaiy to repair the damage, during which time we floated in the trough of the sea. The leaks in the meanwhile were constant!}^ increasing. At 6 o’clock p. m. the steel towing hawser was found to be stranded, l)ut as the wind showed no signs of abatement and it was impossil^le for the men to hold out much longer at the pumps, I signaled the Rush, that the leaks were gaining on us and advised the commanding officer to make for the nearest port, where temporaiy repairs could be made to the Ntmivah l)efore proceeding farther. After a brief consultation it was decided to make for Eureka, Cal. The course of the vessels was therefore changed, and we ran off' before the wind and sea for that port. At this time there was about 12 inches of water in the hold of the Nimivak. As there were no athwartship ])ulkheads in the hold, this immense volume of water rolled back and forth the whole length of the vessel each time she rose and fell on the sea, threatening at each scend either to tear out the decks or b}" its overwhelming weight to cause the vessel to ‘‘turn turtle” or capsize. All night the wearv men toiled at the pumps and were encouraged b}^ the officers, who themselves took turns to relieve the nearl}" exhausted crew. In spite of their utmost endeavors, how- ever, the water steadih" gained, and it was therefore with a feeling of intense relief, at daylight next morning, that I recognized the land- marks in the vicinitv of Eureka and knew that, leaning an}" further accidents, we would shortl}" be in port. Just as we were about to turn in for the entrance to the harbor the towing hawser carried awa}" on the Rush^ and while it was being repaired the Xunivak again fell off' into the trough of the sea. The water had now reached a depth of 21 inches in the hold, and I feared that at the verv last moment, with the harbor in sight, we would be compelled to abandon her. Einallv, however, the broken hawser was repaired, \X\^Rnsh once more steamed ahead, slowl}" at first to test the repaired hawser, and then at full speed in over the bar. In half an hour we were safe!}" anchored over a convenient mud flat, but so exhausted were the crews of ])oth the Nunivak and Rush that signals of distress were set, and in answer to them the crew of the life-saving station at this place came on board and manned our pumps, and b}^ their assistance the water was kept 5661—03 3 26 clown until the steam pumps could be got working again and the hold pumped out. The Department was immediately informed by telegraph of the condition of the and orders were received to haul the vessel out at Eureka, make necessary repairs, and proceed to Seattle. This was accoi’dingly done. Owing to the fact that there was no marine railway at Eureka large enough to accommodate the Nnnivcik^ she was put on the l)each at high water, and, by ‘‘working tides,’’ the side seams were calked and covered with 2i-inch battens to hold the oakum in place; but it was obviously impossible to examine or repair the vessel’s bottom until she could be hauled out. New hogchains were titted, the towing apparatus overhauled and improved, and such repairs to the woodwork as could be done here were completed, and on May 19 we left port and again set our course to northward along the coast. The weather was line and the sea smooth when we crossed Eureka Bar, and both continued so until our arrival at Seattle, on May 24. Upon reaching this point orders were received from the Depart- ment to have the Nunivah docked at Quartermasters Harbor for the purpose of making necessary repairs to the bottom. We accordingly proceeded to that place in tow of the RusJi^ and were hauled out on the 29th of May. An examination of the vessel’s bottom disclosed the fact that, with the exception of those planks in the immediate vicinity of the seat of the king-post, the bottom of the vessel was in good condition and the seams intact. It was therefore decided to calk the seams where the oakum had been worked out, and to sheathe the bottom of the vessel with half-inch spruce lumber in order to prevent the oakum from being forced out, and to strengthen the frame by the addition of heavy assistant keelsons placed amidships, and in such a position as to take up the downward thrust of the king-post. This work was all done in the most satisfactoiy manner, and on the 2d of June we returned to Seattle. Meanwhile arrangements had been rapidly made for taking on board the additional supplies which the Department had ordered to be pur- chased at Seattle. The ordinary service ration not being deemed suit- able in all particulars to meet the demands of the new station, a special ration was authorized, the component parts of which are given in another part of this report. While the repairs were being made on the vessel at Quartermasters Harbor, the officer having immediate supervision of the rations and supplies for the ship's equip- ment remained at Seattle to inspect these stores, and upon the return of the vessel everything was in readiness for delivery. Owing to an injury received on the voyage up the coast bv Third Lieutenant Mead, it was found necessary at this time to send him to the hospital at Port Townsend for treatment. Much to his regret a-nd my own, his condi- OLD RUSSIAN BLOCKHOUSE, SITKA. 27 tion was found to ))e such that his detachment became necessary. Lieut. Eugene Blake, jr., R. C. S., who, among others, had volun- teered to take Mead’s place, was assigned to the duty. Final arrangements having been completed, the limh once more took us in tow, and on the 10 th of June we left Seattle and sailed for Port Townsend, arriving at that place on the afternoon of the same da3\ Upon our arrival at Port Townsend, Assistant Engineer W ood and the cabin steward were taken sick, and it was found necessaiw to send them on shore for treatment at the marine hospital. Mr. AVood’s illness required a slight operation to be performed, which would confine him to his bed for a few davs, but as we had decided to touch at Sitka on the wa}^ north, and the mail steamer would undoubtedly overtake us there, Assistant Engineer Maxwell, of the Jiush, was assigned to temporarv dut\^ on the Sunival' to relieve iVIr. AVood, and the latter officer was directed to rejoin us at Sitka if his condition was such as to warrant him in continuing with the party. On June 13 we left Port Townsend and proceeded on our vovage via the inland passage along the coast of British Columbia and south- eastern Alaska toward Sitka. Magnificent weather was experienced on the journey" up the coast, and, after a delav of a couple of da3^s at Comax to take on a suppl3" of coal, we proceeded on our wav and reached Sitka on the evening of June 22 . At several places on the wa3" up to this point enough rough water had been encountered to prove to us that the repairs put on the vessel had greatU improved her seaworthiness. The sheathing on her bot- tom and sides and the addition of the heaiw timbers along her keelson had so stiffened the whole hull that veiy little movement could now be observed in the superstructure, even when the vessel was exposed to a moderately heav3^ sea. This fact no doubt tended to allay any feeling of uneasiness which may have previousl3^ existed as to the chances of our being al)le to finish the vovage in safetv, and from this time on matters of routine dut3" l)oard Avere attended to Avith the same regularit3^ as is observed on aiiA^ vessel of the Service. Assistant Engineer Wood rejoined the JSriinivak at Sitka, and Mr. MaxAvell returned to the Hush. After a short stop at Sitka to obtain a suppU of fresh water, Ave left that place on the morning of June 25 and shaped our course for the island of Kadiak. The Aveather again favored us, and Ave crossed the dangerous stretch of sea lAung l)etween Baranof Island and Kadiak, a distance of 700 miles, in five daA^s without having experienced ain^- thing more serious than a passing rain squall during the passage. The high land of Kadiak Island AA^asmade out ahead on the evening of June 29, and next morning at daylight Ave entered the harbor of St. Paul and came to anchor. 28 Notwithstanding the smooth condition of the sea. the vessel pounded considerably during the run from Sitka to Kadiak and a slight leak made itself manifest in the forward part of the hull. At the sugges- tion of Mr. Wood the forward compartment of the hold was filled with coal, with the idea that this would decrease the vibration of the hull. The novel idea worked admirably and we had no further diffi- culty in this direction. After renewing our supply of fresh water at St. Paul, the weather continuing to be fine, we left port on the 1st of July, and choosing the outside route around the island, in order to save time and avoid any possible delay on account of foggy weather, we stood to the westward, along the south coast of Kadiak, at a good rate of speed, with every- thing in excellent working condition. The Samedis, a group of rug- ged. treeless, and generally fog-drenched islets, lying some 90 miles west of Kadiak, were passed at S p. m. of July 2. and, shaping our course thence more to the northward, we entered the sheltered passages of navigable water lying between the Shumagin Islands and the main- land of the Alaskan Peninsula. In this locality fogs are of frequent occurrence during the summer season, and strong tidal currents make navigation through the narrow straits and intricate passages extremeh' dangerous unless one is well acquainted with the grounds. Long serv- ice in these waters, however, has familiarized most of our officers with the dangers, and although we experienced the usual amount of foggy weather our progress was not delayed, and we reached the vicinity of Unimak Pass on the evening of June -I without any mishap. W e lay to oil' the pass during the night, and at 8 a. m. of the 5th of June entered Bering Sea and stood to the westward along the north coast of the Aleutian Islands. The scenery in this portion of our Alaskan possessions is grand and awe-inspiring. Westward from Kadiak Island all signs of growing timber disappear, and the traveler is confronted with a frowning bar- rier of towering cliffs worn and splintered by ages of erosion, against which the whole force of the Pacific ocean is hurled in constant war- fare. The long green swells of the ocean beat themselves into tattei’S of lace-like foam against the grim face of the ironbound coast, and at first it would seem to be a hopeless struggle on the part of the sea; but a little examination of the coast line will show where great breaches have been made in the apparently impregnable walls. Here deep caverns have been carved out of the cliffs, and there whole miles of softer material have given way before the tremendous assaults which have been made upon it and has been sucked down into the hungry maw of the ocean. Pinnacles and cathedral- like masses of more endur- ing rock now and then stand out a mile or more from the mainland, of which they once formed a part — grim remnants of a once solid mass of RUSSIAN CHURCH, ST. PAUL, KADIAK ISLAND. CHARACTERISTIC HEADLAND, ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, SHOWING EROSIVE ACTION OF THE SEA. Miissi'.s of kolp in llic forc'Ki’nniui. 29 earth which is beiii^ slowly hat surely destroyed by its persistent and relentless enemy, the sea. These outlying rocks are again attacked by shattering frosts, and flaying winds, and beating rains until at last, worn out and conquered, they sink beneath the waves. It is such sunken rocks and ledges that form the most dangerous obstacles to navigation, and in this region of sudden gales, of blinding sleet and snow, and dense fogs, where the best charts as yet made are not to be relied upon, where the Govern- ment has not yet extended its system of aids to navigation in the form of light-houses, fog signals, beacons, and buoys, and where the water is so deep right up to the shore as to make the use of the hand lead of no account, it is little wonder that this coast is approached with dread by the seaman, and that with each 3 ^ear’s neglect the demand that Government aid shall be extended to this region should be more urgent. Back of the abrupt shore line the land extends upward in long curves to the tops of the mountains, which trend in a general east and west direction. The treeless slopes are covered with a mantle of grasses, mosses, and flowering plants, while here and there in shelterad vallevs along the course of streams, areas of dark-green foliage mark the places where thickets of dwarf willow and alder have taken root and grown. At frequent intervals the sk^^ line is broken by the upheaved mass of extinct or active volcanoes. Eruptions from some of the latter are of periodic occurrence, presenting at such times a magniflcent spectacle. The earth trembles, the sea is disturbed for a long dis- tance, and the surface of both land and sea is covered with a fine, impalpable dust, which is so light that it will float for da^^s upon the water and hang suspended in the air like a dense cloud until it is grad- uall^" dissipated by the wind. At the present time the most active volcano of the Aleutian group is Akutan volcano, situated on the island of Akutan, which lies to the westward of Unimak Pass. This volcano is from 3,500 to 4,000 feet high and has a well-defined crater, from which, during its periods of activity, a ruby-red column of flame is projected into the air to a height of 1,500 or 2,000 feet, when it expands into a vast mushroom-shaped cloud, from the purple depths of which a glowing shower of ashes and volcanic tufa falls slowly back to the earth. But magniflcent as Akutan ma}" be when in a state of eruption, in point of beauty it can not be compared with its near neighbor. Mount Shishaldin, which is situated on the western end of Unimak Island. This beautiful peak rises in the form of an almost perfect cone to a height of over 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. The original formation of the crater has never been marred Iw the breaking down of its walls, and as its upper portion is snow-covered during the entire year it presents to the eye a picture of serene beauty 30 and ineffable purity which lingers in the memory and preserves its charm long after the recollection of scenes of greater grandeur per- haps have faded from the mind. Almost immediately after entering Bering Sea the fog was left behind and the view of the adjacent islands, bathed in brilliant sunshine, was grand beyond description. Westward as far as the eye could reach a succession of tremendous granite and basalt cliff's rose in almost perpendicular masses to a height of a thousand feet or more from the sea, and from their tops cascades of melted snow-water plunged down- ward over their rugged, frost-riven faces, and were torn into ribbons of foam by projecting rocks and ffnallv disappeared in diaphanous veils of rainbow mist long before reaching the bottom. The character of the vegetation on the northern side of the Aleutian Islands is so different from that on the southern side as to attract immediate atten- tion, and it can be easih" explained. The Kuro Shiro, or Japanese warm current, sweeps eastward along the whole length of the Aleutian chain, and is at no place more than 30 or lo miles distant from its shores. The inffuence of this warm current so tempers the climate of the southern side of the islands as to produce a luxuriant growth of vegetation here, while on their northern sides, exposed to the blight- ing inffuence of arctic winds and temperatures, none but the hardiest plants survive. Occasionally, in sheltered spots, especially so in valleys having a southern exposure, the eye is gladdened by the sight of green, meadow-like swales of grasses and low shrubbery, but gener- alh" speaking the undulant hills ai‘e covered with a thick mantle of moss and cryptogramic plants, and in every nook and cranii}" of the cliff's beautiful lichens paint the somber rocks with splashes of brilliant green and A^ellow color. Approaching Unalaska Island from the eastward the view is pictur- esque in the extreme. Vast reaches of bare rock slopes rise in precip- itous masses from the sea to a height of l,5t)0 to 2,0()0 feet, and the shore line is girt by a fringe of rugged bowlders over which the surf breaks and roars in never-ending fury. The shore of the island is indented by main" deep ba^-s or ffords, and at the head of one of these the old native settlement of Illiluik is situated. Early on the morning of June 6 we entered this lieautiful l)ay, and after an hour's run came to anchor off' the trading station of the North American Commercial Ccnqiany at Dutch Harbor. Ever since the acquisition of the Territoiy of Alaska by the United States the Alaska Commercial Company has maintained at Illiluik a post for the distribution of supplies to the numerous substations con- trolled by the compain" at various other points among the Aleutian Islands, and to gather the furs purchased from the natives for ship- ment to the outside world. The station is still maintained, but its DUTCH HARBOR, UNALASKA ISLAND, COALING STATION FOR VESSELS OF THE REVENUE CUTTER SERVICE IN BERING SEA. ARCH ROCK IN CAPTAINS HARBOR, UNALASKA ISLAND. VIEW OF SHIPBUILDING YARD IN CAPTAINS HARBOR, UNALASKA ISLAND. ENTRANCE TO CAPTAINS HARBOR, UNALASKA ISLAND. 31 importance has steadily diminished owing* to the decadence of the fur trade in the islands. Many of the smaller and more remote stations have been abandoned on account of the scarcity of game, and the native hunters, with their families, have been removed by the company to more favorable localities where the struggle for existence, always hard for these people, can be carried on under better conditions. In spite of this fostering care, however, the natives are decreasing in numbers, and soon the devastating march of progress will sure!}- crush them out of existence. In the 3 "ear 1870 the lease of the Fur Seal Islands by the Alaska Commercial Company expired by limitation, and a new corporation, entitled ‘‘The North American Commercial Companv,” secured the franchise from the Government. A station at Dutch Harbor, which is not over half a mile from Illiluik village, was built by the new com- pany. Warehouses, a store, agent’s dwelling, a clubhouse, and a commodious wharf with excellent facilities for coaling the largest class of vessel were erected during the first year of occupancy, and later on, when the rush of people to the gold fields of Alaska took place, a large hotel with ample accommodation for the traveling public was added to the plant. The company has also laid pipes to a small lake near at hand and installed a system of waterworks whereby the houses at the station and ships at the wharf are supplied at all times with an abundance of fresh water. Both the Alaska Commercial Company and the North American Commercial Company keep on hand an ample supply of coal, and vessels bound into Bering Sea or the Arctic Ocean usually call in at Unalaska to renew their supply of coal and water. The stores of both the companies are kept well supplied with the class of goods likely to be in demand in this locality, and the prices of articles are but little in excess of those asked for similar articles in the States. Live beef cattle and sheep are brought up in the spring of the year and turned out on the island to graze. A supply of fresh meat is thus assured for the summer months at least. A small herd of cattle has been for several years kept throughout the 3 ^ear on the island, but it is necessary to house them during some part of the winter months. Attempts have ])een made to raise vegetables here, but wdth the exception of a few radishes and a limited quantity of lettuce which arrived at maturity the experiment has not been alto- gether successful. This partial failure is not due, in my opinion, to the adverse climatic conditions so much as it is to the lack of proper prep- aration of the soil. The large amount of volcanic gravel and ash w*hich is mixed with the soil should be first removed. But this is a tedious process, and has probably been the means of discouraging any extensive attempts at gardening. During the early spring and sum- mer months the hills and mountain sides in the interior of Unalaska 5661—03 d 32 Island are covered with a profusion of wild flowers. In the fall sev- eral varieties of edible berries are o’athered and sold by the native children, and some of these berries are fully equal if not superior in flaror to the cultivated fruit. Codfish, salmon, salmon trout, lierring, and several other varieties of fish abound in the waters surrounding the island and in the hundreds of small snow-fed mountain streams. The natives each year secure large quantities of salmon and dry it for winter use; but the valuable codfish banks adjacent to the island have not as yet been utilized as a source of food supply by either the white or native inhabitants to any appreciable extent. After renewing her supplv of coal and water the RusJt once more took the R^univaJt in tow and with a heart}" Godspeed from our friends on shore we left Dutch Harbor on the morning of July 8, and rounding Ulachta Head we stood out into Bering Sea. The day was fine and the sea smooth and soon we passed Cape Cheerful, a remark- al)le promontory which serves as a landmark for the navigator bound for Unalaska, and taking this as a point of departure our course was shaped northward for our port of final destination, St. Michael. The auspicious conditions of our departure encouraged us in the hope that the pleasant weather would last long enough to enable us to cross Bering Sea, for, with the exception of the harbors in the Aleutian Islands, which we were now leaving* behind us, there is no other safe anchorage for vessels like the Xunivcik short of St. Michael, a distance of 800 miles. The good weather continued to favor us for two days, and we made fine progress until the vicinit}" of Xunivak Island was reached. Here a strong northeast wind and a heav}" head sea was encountered. Since leaving Unalaska the sea had been as smooth as a mill pond; but under the influence of the northeast wind it soon rose and we found ourselves pixhing and plunging in a way to cause the Nunivcik. to creak and groan in every timber. The short violent sea had no apparent efi'ect on the Rush other than to cause her to roll a trifle more than usual, and her speed was undiminished. Finding that our progress through the rough water was too rapid, signals were made to the Rush to slow down. The request Avas immediately granted and the strain to which we had been subjected was at once relieved. Dur- ing the day it became necessary to again resort to the use of oil to calm the sea and prevent it from breaking over the Xunival'^ but toward night the wind decreased in force and the sea subsided so much that full speed was once more ordered and we proceeded on our way. At 8 a. m. of July 12 land was m.ide out a longdistance awa}" on the starboard bow. By noon Ave recognized it as Cape llomanzov, a bold headland near the coast, which is the western termination of a short range of mountains forming the southern limit of the flood FIRST OCCUPATION OF THE TERRITORY. & ! -• . -. ■ . t r" .%■ V-.v^'/C - --- . ^*A - , •'•■ ' vi-r > • ■ :.. . ■ ■:|5».i,.fc5?^-,,;-