79 • 8 r, Charles 'u6s ' the cession of iius- - j.i iiiitiixca to the United >ocites LINCOLN ROOM UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY from CARL SANDBURG'S LIBRARY SPEECH OP HOl^. CHARLES SUMNER, OF MASSACHUSETTS, ON THE CESSION OF RUSSIAN AMERICA TO THE UNITED STATES. Thirteen governments founded on the natural authority of the people alone, without a pretense of miracle or mystery, and wJiicJi arc destined to ajjread over tJie northern part of that whole quarter of the globe, are a great point gained in favor of the rights of mankind.— c/o/ki Adams'a Preface to Ida Defense of American Conatitutiona, dated at Groavenor Square, London, January 1, 1787. WASHINGTON: PRINTED AT THE CONGRESSIONAL GLOBE OFFICE. 18G7. V ^^^t^i.^-^-n> /C^W- SPEECH. Mr. President: You have just listened to the reading of the treaty by which Russia cedes to the United States all her possessions on the North American continent in consideration of $7,200,000, to be paid by the United States. On the one side is the cession of a vast country with its jurisdiction and its resources of all kinds: on the other side is the purchase-money. Such is this transaction on its face. BODNDAEIES AND CONFIGUBATION. ^ In endeavoring to estimate its character I / am glad to begin with what is clear and beyond ^ question. I refer to the boundaries fixed by ^ the treaty. Commencing at the parallel of '/(i 54° 40' north latitude, so famous in our history, ' the line ascends Portland channel to the mount- ains, which it follows en their summits to the point of intersection with the 141° west longi- X* tude, which line it ascends to the Frozen ocean, * or, if you please, to the north pole. This is \ the eastern boundary, separating this region from the British possessions, and it is borrowed V" from the treaty between Russia and Great ', Britain in 182o, establishing the relations '^between these two Powers on this continent. It will be seen that this boundary is old ; the test is new. Starting from the Frozen ocean ^ the western boundary descends Behring straits, -v midway between the two islands of Krusenstern . and Ratmanov, to the parallel of G5° 30'', just below where the continents of America and ^ Asia approach each other the nearest ; and ^ from (his point it proceeds in a course nearly southwest through Behring straits, midway between the island of St. Lawrence and Cape Chonkotski, to the meridian of 172° west longi- tude, and thence, in a southwesterly direction, traversing Behring sea, midway between the island of Attou on the east and Copper island on the west, to the meridian of 11»'>° west longi- tude, leaving'the prolonged group of the Aleu- tian islands in the possessions now transferred to the United States, and making the western boundary of our country the dividing line which separates Asia from America. Look at the map and see the configuration of this extensive region, whose estimated area is more than five hundred and seventy thousand square miles. I speak by the authority of our own coast survey. Including the Sitkan archi- pelago at the south, it takes a margin of the main land, fronting on the ocean thirty miles broad and three hundred miles long, to Mount St. Elias, the highest peak of the continent, when it turns with an elbow to the west, and then along Behring straits northerly, when it rounds to the east along the Frozen ocean. Here are upwards of four thousand statute miles of coast, indented by capacious bays and com- modious harbors w'ithout number, embracing the peninsula of Alaska, one of the most re- markable in the world, fifty miles in breadth and three hundred miles in length ; piled with mountains, many volcanic and some still smok- ing: penetrated by navigable rivers, one of which is among the largest of the world; studded with islands which stand like sentinels on the coast, and flanked by that narrow Aleutian range which, starting from Alaska, stretches far away to Japan, as if America were extending a friendly hand to Asia. This is the most general aspect. There are details specially disclosing maritime advantages and approaches to the sea which properly belong to this preliminary sketch. According to accurate estimates the coast line, including bays and islands, is not less than eleven thousand two hundred and seventy miles. In the Aleutian range, besides innumerable islets and rocks, there are notless than fifty-five islands exceeding three miles in length ; there are seven exceeding forty miles, with Ounimak, which is tlje largest, exceeding seventy-three miles. In our part of Behring sea there are five considerable islands, the largest of which is St. Lawrence, being more than ninety-six miles long. Add to all these the group south of the peninsula of Alaska, 4 including tlie Shumagins and the magnificent island of Kodiak, and then the Sitkan group, being archipelago added to archipelago, and the whole together constituting the geograph- ical complement to the West Indies, so that the northwest of the continent answers archipelago for archipelago to the southeast. DISCOVERY OP RUSSIAK AMERICA BY BEHRING, UNDER INSTRUCTIONS FROM PETER THE GREAT. The title of Russia to all these possessions is derived from prior discovery, which is the admitted title by which all European Powers have held in North and South America, unless we except what England acquired by conquest from France; but here the title of France was derived from prior discovery. Russia, shut up in a distant interior and struggling with barbarism, was scarcely known to the other Powers at the time they were lifting their flags in the western hemisphere. At a later day the same powerful genius which made her known as an empire set in motion the enterprise by which these possessions were opened to her dominion. Peter the Great, himself a ship- builder and a reformer, who had worked in the ship-yards of England and Holland, was curious to know if Asia and America were separated by the sea, or if they constituted one undivided body with different names, like Europe and Asia. To obtain this information he wrote with his own hand the following in- structions, and ordered his chief admiral to see them carried into execution : "One nrtwo boats with deckstobe built at Kamts- cbatka, or at any other convenient place, witii which inquiry should be made in relation to the northerly coasts, to see whether they were not contiguous with America, since their end was not known; and this done, they should see whether they could not somewhere find an harbor belonsiniito Europeans' or an European ship. Thej' should likewise set apart some men who should inquire after the name and situation of the coasts discovered. Of all this an exact journal should be kept, with which theyshquld return to Petersburg." — Mailer's Voyages from Asia to America, by Jeffreys, p. 45. The Czar died in the winter of 1725 ; but the Empress Catharine, faithful to the desires of her husband, did not allow this work to be neglected. Vitus Behring, a Dane by birth, and a navigator of some experience, was made commander. The place of embarkation was on the other side of the Asiatic continent. Taking with him officers and ship-builders the navigator left St. Petersburg by land 5th Feb- ruary, 1725, and commenced- the preliminary journey across Siberia, northern Asia, and the sea of Okhotsk to the coast of Kamtschatka, which they reached after infinite hardships and delays, sometimes with dogs for horses, and sometimes supporting life by eating leather bags, straps, and shoes. More tlian three years were passed in this toilsome and perilous journey to the place of embarkation. At last on the 20th of July, 1728, the party was able to set sail in a small vessel, called the Gabriel, and described as "like the packet-boats used in the Baltiek." Steering in a northeasterly direction, Behring passed a large island, which he called St. Lawrence from the saint on whose day it was seen. This island, which is included in the present cession, may be con- sidered as the first point in Russian discovery, as it is also the first outpost of the North American continent. Continuing nortliward, and hugging the Asiatic coast, Behring turned back only when he thought he had reached the northeastern extremity of Asia, and was satis- fied that the two continents were separated from each other. He did not penetrate further north than G7^ 30'. In his voyage Behring was struck by the absence of such great and high waves, as, in other places, are common to the open sea, and he observed fir trees swimming in the water, although they were unknown on the Asiatic coast. Relations of inhabitants, in harmony with these indications, pointed to "a country at no great distance toward the east." His work was still incoi^plete. and the nfivigator before returning home put forth again for this discovery, but without success. By another dreary land journey he made his way back to St. Petersburg in March, 1730, after an absence of five years. Something was accomplished for Russian discovery, and his own fame was engraved on the maps of the world. The straits through which he sailed now bear his name, as also does the expanse of sea which he traversed on his way to the straits. The spirit of discovery continued at St. Petersburg. A Cossack chief undertaking to conquer the obstinate natives on the northeast- ern coast, proposed also " to discover the pre- tended country on the Frozen sea." He was killed by an arrow before his enterprise was completed. Little is known of the result ; but it is stated that the navigator whom he had selected, byname Gwosdew, in 1730 succeeded in reaching a "strange coast" between sixty- five and sixty-six degrees of north latitude, where he saw people, but could not speak with them for want of an interpreter. This must have been the coast of North America, and not far from the group of islands in Behring straits, through which the present boundary passes, separating the United States from Russia, and America from Asia. The desire of the Russian Government to get behind the curtain increased. Behring volunteered to undertake the discoveries that remained to be made. He was created a com- modore, and his old lieutenants were created captains. The Senate, the Admiralty, and the Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg all united in the enterprise. Several academicians were appointed to report on the natural history of the coasts visited, among whom was Stel- ler, the naturalist, said to be "immortal" from this association. All of these, with a numer- ous body of officers, journeyed across Siberia, northern Asm, and the sea of Okhotsk, to Kamtschatka, as Behring had journeyed before. Though ordered in 1732, the expedition was not able to leave the western coast until 4th June, 1741, when two well-appointed ships set sail in company "to discover the continent of America." One of these, called the St. Paul, v/as under Commodore Behring ; the other, called the St. Peter, was under Captain Tschirikow. For some time the two kept together; but in a violent storm and fog they were separated, when each continued the expedition alone. IBehring first saw the continent of North America on ISth July, 17-il, in latitude 58° 28''. Looking at it from a distance "the country bad terrible high mountains that were covered with snow." Two days later he anchored in a sheltered bay near a point which he called from the saint day on which he saw it, Cape St. Elias. He was in the shadow of Mount St. Elias. On landing he found deserted huts, fire-places, hewn wood, household furniture, an arrow, edge-tools of copper with " store of red salmon." Here also several birds un- known in Siberia were noticed by the faithful Steller, among which was the blue jay, of a peculiar species, now called by his name. Steering northward, Behring found himself constrained by the elbow in the coast to turn westward, and then in a southerly direction. Hugging the shore, his voyage was constantly arrested by islands without number, among which he zigzagged to find his way. Several times he landed. On one of these occasions he saw natives, who wore "upper garments of whale's guts, breeches of seal-skins, caps of the skins of sea lions, adorned with various feathers, especially those of hawks." These "Americans" as they are called were fisher- men, without bows and arrows. They regaled the Russians with "whale's flesh," but declined strong drink. One of them, on receiving a cup of brandy, "spit it out again as soon as he tasted it and cried aloud, as if complaining to his countrymen how ill he had been used." This was on one of the Shumagin islands, near the southern coast of the peninsula of Alaska. Meanwhile, the other solitary ship, proceed- ing on ite way, had sighted the same coast loth July, 1741, in the latitude of 5G°. Anchoring at some distance from the steep and rocky cliffs before him, Tschirikow sent his mate with the long boat and ten of his best men, provided with small-arms and a brass cannon, to inquire into the nature of the country and to obtain fresh water. The long boat disappeared in a small wooded bay, and was never seen again. Thinking it might have been damaged in land- ing the captain sent his boatswain with the small boat and carpenters well armed to fur- nish necessary assistance. The small boat dis- appeared also, and was never seen again. At the same time great smoke was observed con- tinually ascending from the shore. Shortly afterwards two boats filled with natives sallied forth and lay at some distance from the vessel, when, crying "J^/ai, Agai,^'' they put back to the shore. Sorrowfully the Russian navigator turned away, not knowing the fate of his com- rades and unable to help them. This was not far from Sitka. Such was the first discovery of these north- western coasts; and such are the first recorded glimpses of the aboriginal inhabitants. The two navigators had different fortunes. Tschi- rikow, deprived of his boats, and therefore un- able to land, hurried home. Adverse winds and storms interfered. He supplied himself with fresh water only by distilling the ocean or pressing rain from the .sails. But at last on the 9th October he reached Kamtschatka, with his ship's company of seventy diminished to fort3'-nine. During this time Behring was driven, like Ulysses, on the uncertain waves. A single tempest raged for seventeen days, so that Andrew HossellDerg, the ancient pilot, who had known the sea for fifty years, declared that he had seen nothing like it in his life. Scurvy came with its disheartening horrors. The commodore himself was a sufferer. Rigging broke. Cables snapped. Anchors were lost. At last the tempest-tossed vessel was cast upon a desert island, then without a name, where the commodore, sheltered in a ditch and half-cov- ered with sand as a protection against cold, died 8th December, 1741. His body after his decease was "scraped out of the ground" and buried on this island, which is called by his name, and constitutes an outpost of the Asiatic continent. Thus the Russian navi- gator, after the discovery of America, died in Asia. Russia, by the recent demarcation, does not fail to retain his last resting-place among her possesiions. TITLE OF RUSSIA. For some time after these expeditions, by which Russia achieved the palm of discovery, imperial enterprise slumbered in those seas. The knowledge already acquired was continued and confirmed only by private individuals, who were led there in quest of furs. In 1745 the Aleutian islands were discovered by an adven- turer in search of sea otters. In successive voyages all these islands were visited for simi- lar purposes. Among these was Ounalaska, the principal of the group of Fox islands, con- stituting a continuation of the Aleutian islands, whose inhabitants and productions were mi- nutely described. In 17G8 private enterprise was superseded by an expedition ordered by the Empress Catharine, which, leaving Kamts- chatka, explored this whole archipelago and the peninsula of Alaska, which to the islanders stood for the whole continent. Shortly afterwards all these discoveries, beginning with those of Behring and Tschirikow, were verified by the great English navigator. Captain Cook. In 1778 he sailed along the northwestern coast, "near where Tschirikow anchored in 1741;" then again in sight of mountains "wholly cov- ered with snow from the highest summit down to the sea-coast," "with the summit of an ele- vated mountain above the horizon," which he supposed to be the Mount St. Elias of Behr- ing ; Hhen by the very anchorage of Behring; then among the islands through which Behring zigzagged, and along the coast by the island 6 of St. Lawrence until arrested by ice. If any doubt existed with regard to Russian discov- eries it was removed by the authentic report of this navigator, who shed such a flood of light upon the geography of this region. Such from the beginning is the title of Rus- sia, dating at least from 1741. The coast of British Columbia, next below, was discovered by Vancouver in 1790, and that of Oregon, still further down, by Gray, who, sailing from Boston in 1789, entered the Columbia river in 1790; so that the title of Russia is the earliest on the northwestern coast. I have not stopped to quote volume and page, but I beg to be under- stood as following approved authorities, and I refer especially to the Russian work of MiiUer, already cited, on the Voyages from Asia to America; the volume of Coxe on Russian Dis- coveries with its supplement on the Compara- tive View of Russian Discoveries; the volume of Sir John Barrow, on Arctic Voyages; Bur- uey'' s. Riissian and Northeastern Voyages; and the third voyage of Captain Cook, unhappily interrupted by his tragical death from the natives of the Sandwich islands, but not until after his exploration of this coast. There were at least four other Russian expe- ditions by which this title was confirmed, if it needed any confirmation. The first was ordered by the Empress Catharine in 1785. It was under the command of Commodore Billings, an Englishman in the service of Russia, and was narrated from the original papers by Mar- tin Sauer, secretary of the expedition. In the instructions from the Admiralty at St. Peters- burg the Commodore was directed to take possession of "such coasts and islands as he shall first discover, whether inhabited or not, that cannot be disputed, and are not yet sub- ject to any European Power, with consent of the inhabitants, if any," and this was to be accomplished by setting up "posts marked with the arms of Russia, with letters indicat- ing the time of sovereignty, a short account of the people, their voluntary submission to the Russian sovereignty, and that this was done under the glorious reign of the great Catharine the Second." (Billings's Northern Russia, Appendix.) . The next was in 1803, in the interest of the Russian American Company. There were two ships, one under the command of Captain Lisiansky, and the other of Captain Krusenstern, of the Russian navy. It was the first voyage round the world by the Russian Government, and lasted three years. During its progress these ships visited separately the northwest coast of America, and especially Sitka and the island of Kodiak. Still another enterprise organized by the celebrated minister Count Romanzoff, and at his expense, left Russia in 1815, under the command of Lieu- tenant Kotzebue, an officer of the Russian navy, and son of the German dramatist, whose assassination darkened the return of the son from his long voyage. It is enough for the present to say of this expedition that it has left its honorable traces on the coast even as far as the Frozen ocean. There remains the enterprise of Liltke, at the time captain, and afterward admiral in the Russian navy, which was a voyage round the world, embracing espe- cially the Russian possessions, commenced in 182G, and described in French with instructive fullness. With him sailed the German natu- ralist Kittlitz, who has done so much to illus- trate the natural history of this region. A FKEXCn ASPIRATION ON THIS COAST. So little was the Russian title recognized for some time, that when the unfortunate expedi- tion of La Perouse, with the frigates Boussole and Astrolabe, stopped on this coast in 1787, he did not hesitate to consider the friendly harbor, in latitude 58° 30^, where he was moored as open to permanent occupation. Describing this harbor, which he named Port dcs Francais, as sheltered behind a breakwater of rocks, with a calm sea and with a mouth sufficiently large, he says that nature seemed to have created at this extremity of the world a port like that of Toulon but vaster in plan and accommodation; and then considering that it had never been discovered before, that it was situated thirty-three leagues northwest of Rem- edios, the limit of Spanish navigation, about two hundred and eighty-four leagues from Nootka and a hundred leagues from Prince William sound, the mariner records his judg- ment that "if the French Government had any project of a factory on this coast no nation could have the slightest right to oppose It." (La Perouse, Voyage, Tom. 2, p. 147.) Thus quietly was Russia dislodged. The frigates sailed further on their voyage and never re- turned to France. Their fate was unknown, until after fruitless search and the lapse of a generation their shipwrecked hulls were acci- dentally found on a desert island of the south- ern Pacific. The unfinished journal of La Perouse recording his visit to this coast had been sent overland, by way of Kamtschatka and Siberia, to France, where it was published by a decree of the National Assembly, thus making known his supposed discovery and his aspiration. EARLY SPANISH CLAIM. Spain also has been a claimant. In 1775 Bodega, a Spanish navigator, seeking new opportunities to plant the Spanish flag, reached the parallel of 58° on this coast, not far from Sitka; but this supposed discovery was not followed by any immediate assertion of domin- ion. The universal aspiration of Spain had embraced this whole region even at an early dajf, and shortly after the return of Bodega another enterprise was equipped to verify the larger claim, being nothing less than the ori- ginal title as discoverer of the straits between America and Asia and of the conterminous continent under the name of Anian. This curious episode is not out of place in this brief history. It has two branches: one concerning early maps on which straits are represented between America and Asia under the name of Anian ; the other concerning a pretended attempt by a Spanish navigator at an early day to find these straits. There can be no doubt that early maps exist with northwestern straits marked Anian. There are two in the Congressional Library in atlases of the years 1717 and IGSO; but these are of a date comparatively modern. Engel, in his M^moires Geographiques^ mentions several earlier, which he believes to be genuine. There is one purporting to be by Zaltieri, and bearing date 15GG, an authentic pen-and-ink copy of which is now before mo from the collection of our own Coast Survey. On this very interest- ■ ing map, which is without latitude or longi- tude, the western coast of the continent is delineated with straits separating it from Asia not unlike Behring straits in outline, and with the name in Italian Stretto di Anian. South- ward the coast has a certain conformity with what is now known to exist. Below the straits is an indentation corresponding to Bristol bay ; then a peninsula somewhat broader than that of Alaska; then comes the elbow of the coast; then lower down three islands, not unlike Sitka, Queen Charlotte, and Vancouver; and then, further south, is the peninsula of Lower California. Sometimes the story of Anian is explained by the voyage of the Portuguese navigator Caspar de Cortereal in 1500-1505, when, on reaching Hudson bay in quest of a Eassage round America, he imagined that he ad found it, and proceeded to name his dis- covery "in honor of two brothers who accom- panied him." Verj- soon maps began to re- cord the straits of Anian ; but this does not explain the substantial conformity of the early delineation v.-Ith the reality, which seems truly remarkable. The other branch of inquiry is more easily disposed of. This turns on a Spanish docu- ment entitled "Relation of the Discovery oi the Strait of Anian, made by me Captain Lorenzo Ferren Maldonado," purporting to be written at the time, although it did not see the light till 1781, when it was published in Spain, and shortly afterward became the sub- ject of a memoir before the French Academy. If this early account of a northwest passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific were authen- tic the whole question would be settled, but recent geographers indignantly discard it as a barefaced imposture. Clearly Spain once regarded it otherwise; for her Government in 1789 sent out an expedition "to discover the strait by which Maldonado was supposed to have passed in 1588 from the coast of Labra- dor to the Great Ocean." The expedition was not successful, and nothing more has been heard of any claim from tliis pretended discov- ery. The story of Maldonado has taken its place in the same category with that of Mun- chausen. REASONS I'OK THIS CESSIOM BY RUSSIA. Turning from this question of title, which time and testimony have already settled, I meet the inquiry, why does Russia part with posses- .sions thus associated with tlie reign of her greatest emperor and filling an important chajv ter of geographical history? On this head I have no information which is not open to others. But I do not forget that the first Napoleon in parting with Louisiana was controlled I)y three several considerations : first, he needed tlie purchase-money for his treasury ; secondly, he was unwilling to leave this distant unguarded territory a prey to Great Britain in the event of hostilitieswhich seemed at hand ; and thirdly, he was glad, according to his own remarkable language, " to establish forever the power of the United States and give to England a mari- time rival destined to humble her pride. ' ' Such is the record of history. Perhaps a similar record may be made hereafter with regard to the present cession. It is sometimes imagined that Russia, with all her great empire, is finan- cially poor, so that these few millions may not be unimportant to her. It is by foreign loans that her railroads have been built and her wars have been aided. All, too, must see that in those " coming events," which now more than ever " cast their shadows before," it will be for her advantage not to hold out- lying possessions from which thus far she has obtained no income commensurate with the possible expense for their protection. Perhaps, like a wrestler, she now strips for the con- test, which I trust sincerely may be averted. Besides I cannot doubt that her enlightened emperor, who has given pledges to civilization by an unsurpassed act of Emancipation, would join the first Napoleon in a desire to enhance the maritime power of the United States. These general considerations are reenforced when we call to mind the little influence which Russiahas thus far been able to exercise in this region. Though possessing dominion over it for more than a century this gigantic Power has not been more genial or productive there than the soil itself. Her government there is little more than a name or a shadow. It is not even a skeleton. It is hardly visible. Its only rep- resenative is a fur company, to which has been added latterly an ice company. The immense country is without form and without light; without activity and without progress. Distant from the imperial capital, and separated from the huge bulk of Russian empire, it does not' share the vitality of a common country. Its life is solitary and feeble. Its settlements are only encampments or lodges. Its fisheries are only a petty perquisite, belonging to local or per- sonal adventurers rather than to the commerce of nations. In these statements I follow the record. So little were these possessions regarded during the last century that they were scarcely recog- nized as a component part of the empire. I have now before me an authentic map, pub- lished 1)}' tlie Academj' of Sciences at St. Pe- tersburg in 1770, and reproduced at London in 1787, entitled "General Map of the Russian 8 Empire," where you will look in vain for Rus- sian America, unless we except that link of the Aleutian chain neai'est to Asia, which appears to have been incorporated under the Empress Anna at the same time with Siberia. (See Coxe's Russian Discoveries.) Alexander Humboldt, whose insight into geography was unerring, in his great work on New Spain, published in 1811, after stating that he is able from official documents to give the position of the Russian factories on the American conti- nent, says that they are "nothing but sheds and cabins employed as magazines of furs." He remarks further that "the larger part of these small Russian colonies do not communi- cate with each other except by sea," and then, putting us on our guard not to expect too much from a name, he proceeds to say that "the new denomination of Eussian America or Russian possessions on the new continent must not make us think that the coasts of Behring's Basin, the peninsula of Alaska, or the country of Tchuktchi have become Russian provinces in the sense given to this word, when we speak of the Spanish provinces of Sonora or New Biscay." (Humboldt, Essai Politique sur La Nouvelle Espagne, Tom. I, pp. 344, 345. ) Here is a disflnction between the foothold of Spain in California and the foothold of Russia in North America, which will at least illustrate the slender power of the latter in this region. In ceding possessions so little within the sphere of her empire, embracing more than one hundred nations or tribes, Russia gives up no part of herself, and even if she did the con- siderable price paid, the alarm of war which begins to fill our ears, and the sentiments of friendship declared for the United States would explain the transaction. THE NEGOTIATION, IN ITS ORIGIN AND COMPLETION. I am not able to say when the idea of this cession first took shape. I have heard that it was as long ago as the administration of Mr. Polk. It is within my knowledge that the Russian Government was sounded on the subject during the administration of Mr. Bu- chanan. This was done through Mr. Gwin, at the time Senator of California, and Mr. Apple- ton, Assistant Secretary of State. For this pur- pose the former had more than one interview with the Russian minister at Washington some time in December, 1859, in which, while profess- ing to speak for the President unofficially, he represented "that Russia was too far off to make the most of these possessions ; and that, as we are near, we can derive more from them." In reply to an inquiry of the Russian minister Mr. Gwin said that "the United States could go as high as $5,000,000 for the purchase," on which the former made no com- ment. Mr. Appleton, on another occasion, said to the minister that "the President thought that the acquisition would be very profitable to the States on the Pacific ; that he was ready to follow it up, but wished to know in advance if Russia was ready to cede ; that if she were, he would confer with his Cabinet and influential members of Congress." All this was unoffi- cial ; but it was promptly communicated to the Russian Government, who seem to have taken it into careful consideration. Prince Gortscha- kow, in a dispatch which reached here early in the summer of 1860, said that "the offer was not what might have been expected ; but that it merited mature reflection ; that the Minister of Finance was about to inquire into the con- dition of these possessions, after which Russia would be in a condition to treat." The prince added for himself that " he was by no means satisfied personally that it would be for the interest of Russia politically to alienate these possessions; that the only consideration which could make the scales incline that way would be the prospect of great financial advantages ; but that the sum of $5,000,000 does not seem in any way to represent the real value of these possessions," and he concluded by asking the minister to tell Mi-. Appleton and Senator Gwin that the sum offered was not considered "an equitable equivalent." The subject was submerged by the presidential election which was approaching, and then by the Rebellion. It will be observed that this attempt was at a time when politicians who believed in the perpetuity of slavery still had power. Mr. Buchanan was President, and he employed as his intermediary a known sympathizer with slavery, who shortly afterward became a rebel. Had Russia been willing, it is doubtful if this controlling interest would have sanctioned any acquisition too far north for slavery. Meanwhile the Rebellion was brought to an end, and peaceful enterprise was renewed, which on the Pacific coast was directed to- ward the Russian possessions. Our people there wishing new facilities to obtain fish, fur, and ice, sought the intervention of the na- tional Government. The Legislature of Wash- ington Territory, in the winter of 18G6, adopted a memorial to the President of the United States, entitled "in reference to the cod and other fisheries," as follows: To his Excellency Andrew Johnson, President of the United States : Your memorialists, the Legislative Assembly of Washington Territory, beg leave to show that abun- dance of codfish, halibut, .and salmon of excellent quality have been found along the shores of the Itiis- sian possessions. Your memorialists respectfully request your Excellency to obtain such rights and privileges of the Government of Russia as will en- able our fishing vessels to visit the ports and harbors of its possessions to the end that fuel, water, and pro- visions may be easily obtained, that our sick and disabled fishermen may obtain sanitary assistance, together with the privilege of caring fish and repair- ing vessels in need of repairs. Your memorialists further request that the Treasury Department be instructed to forward to the collector of customs of this Puget sound district such fishing licenses, ab- stract journals, and log-books as will enable our hardy fishermen to obtain the bounties now provided and paid to the fisherman in the Atlantic States. Your memorialists finally pray your Excellcncyto employ such ships as may be spared from the Pacific naval fleet in exploring and surveying the fishing 9 banks known to navigators to exist along the Pacific coast from the Cortes bank to Behrins straits, and as in duty bound your memorialists will ever pray. Passed the House of Represontativrs January 10, 18(56. EDWARD ELDIUDGL, Speaker House of UepreHentaticcs. Passed the CouneilJan,..ry«^^g.^^^^g^ President of tlie Council. This memorial on its presentation to the President in February, 18GG, was_ referred to the Secretary of State, by whom it was com- municated to Mr. de Stoeckl, the Russian minis- ter, with remarks on the importance of some early and comprehensive arrangement between the two Powers in order to prevent the growth of difficuliies, especially from the fisheries in that region. Shortly afterward:^ another influence was felt. Mr. Cole, who had been recently elected to the Senate from California, acting in behalf of cer- tain persons in that State, sought to obtain from the Russian Government a license or franchise to gather furs in a portion of its American pos- sessions. The charter of the Russian American Company was abont to expire. This company had already underlet to the Hudson Bay Com- pany all its franchise on the main land between 64° 40' and Mount St. Elias; and now it was proposed that an American company, holding direct from the Russian Government, should be substituted for the latter. The mighty Hudson Bay Company, with its headquarters in Lon- don, was to give way to an American Company with its headquarters in California. Among the letters on this subject addressed to Mr. Cole and now before me is one dated at San Francisco, April 10, 18G0, in which this scheme is developed as follows: " There is at the present time agood chance to organ- ize a fur trading? company to trade bet ween the United States and the Kus.-ian posses.sions in America, and as the charter formerly Kranted to the Hudson Bay Company has expired this would bo the opportune momenttostartia." * * * * "I should think that by a little management this charter could be obtained from the Russian Government for our- selves, as 1 do not think they are very willing to re- new the charter of the Hudson Day Company, and I think they would?ivc the preference to an American company," especially if the company should pay to the Russian Government iive percent, on the gross proceedsof their traus.rctions. and also aid in civiliz- ing and ameliorating the eondition of the Indians by employing missionaries, if required by the Russian Goverument. For the faithful performance of the above we ask a charter for the term of twenty-five years, to be renewed for the same lenfrth of time, if the Russian Government finds the com|)any deserv- ing. The charter to invest us with the right of trad- ing in all the country between the British American line and the Russian archipelago." * * » * "Remember, we wish for the same charter as was formerly granted to the Hudson Bay Company, and we offer in return more than they did." Another correspondent of Mr. Cole, under date of San Francisco, _17th September, 18GG, wrote as follows: "I have talked with a man who has been on the coast and in the trade for ten ycarspast, and he says it is much more valuable tlian I have supposed, and I think it very important to obtain it if possible." The Russian minister at Washington, whom Mr. Cole saw repeatedly upon this subject, was not authorized to act, and the latter, after .conference with the Department of State, was induced to address Mr. Clay, minister of the United States at St. Petersburg, who laid the application before the Rus.?ian Government. This was an important step. A letter from Mr. Clay, dated at St. Petersburg as late as 1st February, 1867, makes the following reve- lation : "The Russian Government has already ceded away its rights in Russian America for a term of years, and the Russo-Ainerican Company has also ceded the same to the Hudson Bay Company. This Ica-^^o ex- pires in June next, and the president of the Russo- Americau Company tells mc that they have been in correspondence with the Hudson Bay Company about arenewalof the 1-easeiur another term of twenty-fivo or thirty years. Until he receives a definite answer he cannot enter into negotiations with us or your California company. My opinion is that if he can get oQ' with the Hudson Bay Company he will do so, when wo can make some arrangements with the Russo-American Company." Some time had elapsed since the original attempt of Mr. Gwin, also a Senator from California, and it is probable that the Russian Government had obtained information which enabled it to see its way more clearly. It will be remembered that Prince Gortschakow had promised an inquiry, and it is known that in 18G1 Captain Lieutenant Golowin, of the Rus- sian navy, made a detailed report on these possessions. Mr. Cole had the advantage of his predecessor. There is reason to believe, also, that tlie administration of the fur com- pany had not been entirely satisfactory, so that there were well-founded hesitations with regard to the renewal of its franchise. Meanwhile, in October, 18GG, Mr. de Stoeckl, who had long been the Russian minister at Washington, and enjoyed in a high degree the confidence of our Government, returned home on a leave of absence, promising his best exertions to \)T0- mote good relations between the two countries. While he was at St. Petersburg the applications from the United States were under considera- tion ; but the Russian Government was disin- clined to any minor arrangement of the char- acter proposed. Obviously something like a crisis was at hand with regard to these pos- sessions. The existing government was not adequate. The franchises granted there were about to terminate. Something must be done. As Mr. de Stoeckl was leaving in Febnmry to return to his post the ArChduke Constantine, the brother and chief adviser of the emperor, handed him a map with the lines in our Treaty marked upon it, and told him he might treat for this cession. The minister arrived in Wash- ington early in March. A negotiation was opened at once with our Government. Final instructions were received by the Atlantic cable from St. Petersburg on the 29th March, and at four o'clock on the morning of the !30th March this important Treaty was signed by Mr. Seward on the part of the United States and by Mr. de Stoeckl on the part of Russia. Few treaties have been conceived, initiated, prosecuted, and completed in so simple a manner without protocols or dispatches. The 10 •whole negotiation will be seen in its result, unless we accept two brief notes, which con- stitute all that passed between the negotiators. These havean interest general and special, and I conclude the history of this transaction by reading them: Department of State, Washington, March 23, 1867. Sir: With reference to the proposed convention between our respective Governments for a cession by Russia of her American territory to the United States, I have the honor to acquaint 5'ou that I must insist upon that cLnuse in the sixth article of the draft winch declares the cession to be free and unin- cumbered by auy reservations, privileges, franchises, grants, or possessions by any associated companies, whether corporate or incorporate, Russian or any other, &c., and must regard it as an ultimatum. With the President's approval, however, I will add 8200,000 to the consideration money on that account. I avail myself of this occasion to offer to you a renewed assurance of my most distineuished consid- eration. WILLIAM II. SEWARD. Mr. Edward De Stoeckl, &c.. &c., &c. [Translation.] Washington, March 17 I 29, 1867. Mr. Secretary of State: I have the honor to inform you that by a telegram dated 16 | 28th of this month from St. Petersburg, Prince Gortchakow in- forms me that his Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias gives his consent to the cession of the Russian Possessions on the American continent to the United tates for the stipulated sum of $7,200,000 in gold, and that his Majesty the Emperor invests me with full powers to negotiate and sign the treaty. Please accept, Mr. Secretary of State, the assurance of my very high consideration. STOECKL. To Hon. William II. Seward, Secretary of State of the United States. the treaty. The Treaty begins with the declaration that "the United States of America and his Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias, being desirous of strengthening, if possible, the good nnder- standing which exists between them," have appointed plenipotentiaries, who have pro- ceeded to sign articles, wherein it is stipulated on behalf of Russia that "his Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias agrees to cede to the United States by this convention, imme- diately upon the exchange of the ratifications thereof, all the territory and dominion now possessed by his said Majesty on the continent of America and in the adjacent islands, the same being contained within the geographical limits herein set forth;" and it is stipulated on behalf of the United States that "in consid- eration of the cession aforesaid the United States agree to pay at the Treasury in Wash- ington, within ten months after the ratification of this convention, to the diplomatic represent- ative or other agent of his Majesty the Em- peror of all the Russias duly authorized to receive the same, $7,200,000 in geld." The ratifications are to be exchanged within three months from the date of the Treaty, or sooner, if possible. Beyond the consideration founded on the desire of "strengthening the good understand- ing" between tlie two countries, there is the pecuniary consideration already mentioned, which underv/ent a change in the progress of the negotiation. The sum of seven millions was originally agreed upon; but when it was understood that there was a fur company and also an ice company enjoying monopolies under the existing governm.ent, it was thought best that these should be extinguished, in considera- tion of which our Government added $200,000 to the purchase money, and the Russian Govern- ment in formal terras declared "the cession of territory and dominion to be free and unin- cumbered by any reservations, privileges, fran- chises, grants, or possessions, by any asso- ciated companies, whether corporate or incor- porate, or by any parties, except merely private individual property-holders." Thus the Uni- ted States receive this cession free of all in- cumbrances, so far at least as Russia is in a condition to make it. The Treaty proceeds to say, that "the cession hereby made conveys all the rights, franchises, and privileges now belonging to Russia in the said territory or dominion and appurtenances thereto." In other words, Russia conveys all that she has to convey. questions arising under the treaty. There are questions not unworthy of atten- tion, v/hich arise under the treaty between Russia and Great Britain, fixing the eastern limits of these possessions, and conceding certain privi- leges to the latter Power. By this treaty, signed at St. Petersburg 28th February, 1825, after fixing the boundaries between the Russian and British possessions, it is provided that "for the space of tenyears the vessels of the two Povvfers, or those belonging to their respective subjects, shall mutually be at liberty to frequent, with- out any hinderance whatever, all the inland seas, gulfs, havens, and creeks on the coast for the purpose of fishing and of trading with the na- tives;" and also that "for the space o^ ten years the port of Sitka or Novo Archangelsk shall be open to the commerce and vessels of British subjects." (Hertslet's Commercial Trea- ties, vol. 2, p 3G5. ) In the same Treaty it is also provided that "the subject:s of his Britan- nic Majesty, from whatever quarter they may arrive, whether from the ocean or from the interior of the continent, shall forcner enjoy the right of navigating freely and v.ithout any hinderance whatever all the rivers and streams which in their course toward the Pacific ocean may cross the line of demarcation." (Ibid.) Afterv/ards a Treaty of Commerce and Naviga- tlonbetv/een Russiaand GreatBrltain wassigned at St. Petersburg 11th January, 1843, subject to be terminated on notice from either party at the expiration often years, in which it is provided that " in regard to commerce and navigation in the Russian possessions on the northwest coast of America the convention of 2Sth February, 1825, continues in force." _ {Ibid., vol. G, p. 7(37.) Then ensued the Crimean war between Russia and Great Britain, effacing or suspend- ing treaties. Afterwards another Treaty of Commerce and Navigation v/as signed at St. Petersburg 12th January, 1859, subject to be terminated on notice from either party at the 11 expiration of ten years, which repeats the last provision. {Ibid., vol. 10, p 10(53.) Thus we have three different stipulations on the part of Iiussia; one opening seas, gulfs, and havens on the Russian coast to British sub- 1 jects for fishing and trading with the natives; | the second making Sitka a free port to British subjects ; and the third making British rivers which flow through the Russian possessions forever free to British navigation. Do the United States succeed to these stipulations? Among these I make a distinction in favor of the last, which by its language is declared to be ''forever,'' and may have been in the nature of an equivalent at the settlement of the boundaries between the two Powers. But whatever may be its terms or its origin it is obvious that it is nothing but a declaration of public law as it has always been expounded by the United States and is now recognized on the continent of Europe. Vi'hile pleading with Great Britain in 182G for the free navi- gation of the St. Lawrence Mr. Clay, who was at the time Secretary of State, said that " the American Government did not mean to contend for any principle the benefit of which, in analogous circumstances, it would deny to Great Britain." (Wheaton's Elements of International Law, part 2, cap. 4.) During the same year Mr. Gallatin, our minister in London, when negotiating with Great Britain for the adjustment of our boundaries on the Pacific, proposed that " if the line should cross any of the branches of the Columbia at points from which they are navigable by boats to the main stream the navigation of both branches and of the main stream should be perpetually free and common to the people of both nations. ' ' At an earlier day the United States made the same claim with regard to the Mississippi, and asserted as a general principle that "if the right of the upper inhabitants to descend the stream was in any case obstructed it was an act by a stronger society against a weaker, condemned by the judgment of mankind." {Ibid.) By these admissions our country is estopped, even if the public law of the Euro- pean continent, first declared at Vienna with regard to the Rhine, did not offer an example which we cannot afford to reject. I rejoice to believe that on this occasion we shall apply to Great Britain the generous rule which from the beginning we have claimed for ourselves. The two other stipulations are different in character. They are not declared to be " for- ever," and do not stand on any principle of public law. Even if subsisting now they can- not be onerous. I doubt much if ihey are sub- sisting now. In succeeding to the Russian pos- sessions it does not follow that the United States succeed to ancient obligations assumed by Russia, as if, according to a phrase of the common law, they are "covenants running with the land." If these stipulations are in the nature of servitudes they depend for their duration on the sovereignty of Russia, and are personal or national rather than territorial. So at least I am inclined to believe. But it is hardly profitable to speculate on a point of so little practical value. Even if " running with the land" these servitudes can be terminated at the expiration of ten years from the last treaty by a notice, which equitably the United States may give, so as to take cQ'ect on the 12th January, 18(J'J. Meanwhile, during this brief period, it will be easy by act uf Congress in advance to limit importations at Sitka, so that this " free port" shall not be made the channel or doorway by which Britisli goods may be introduced into the United States free of duty. • GENERAL CON'SIDERATIONS ON THE TREATY. From this survey of the Treaty, as seen in its origin and the questions under it, I might pass at once to a survey of the possessions which have been conveyed ; but there are other matters of a more general character which present themselves at this stage and challenge the judgment. These concern nothing less than the unity, power, and grandeur of the Repub- lic, with the extension of its dominion and its institutions. Such considerations, where not entirely inapplicable, arc apt to be controlling. I do not doubt that they will in a great measure determine the fate of this treaty with the Amer- ican people. They are patent, and do not de- pend on research or statistics. To state them is enough. Advantages to the Pacific Coast. (1.) Foremost in order, if not in importance, I put the desires of our fellow-citizens on the Pacific coast, and the special advai^tages which they will derive from this enlargement of boundary. They were the first to ask for it, and will be the first to profit by it. While others knew the Russian possessions only on the map they knew them practically in their resources. While others were still indifferent they were planning how to appropriate Russian peltries and fisheries. This is attested by the resolutions of the Legislature of Washington Territory; also by the exertions at different times of two Senators from California, who, differing in political sentiments and in party relations, took the initial steps which ended in this Treaty. These well-known desires were founded, of course, on supposed advantages ; and here ex- perience and neighborhood were prompters. Since 1854 the people of California have re- ceived their ice from the fresh-water lakes ia the island of Kodiak, not far westward from Mount St. Elias. Later still their fishermea have searched the waters about the Aleutians and the Shumagins, commencing a promising fishery. Others have proposed to substitute themselves to the Hudson Bay Company ia their franchise on the coast. But all are look- ing to the Orient, as in the time of Columbus, although like him they sail to the West. To them China and Japan, those ancient realms ^Ofs UBOa. 12 of fabulous wealth, are the Indies. To draw this commerce to the Pacific coast is no new idea. It haunted the early navigators. Meares, the Englishman, whose voyage in the inter- vening seas was in 1789, closes his volumes with an essay, entitled "The trade between the northwest coastof America and China," in the course of which he dwells on the "great and very valuable source of commerce'' afforded by China as " forming a chain of trade between Hudson bay, Canada, and the northwest coast," and then he exhibits on the American side the costly furs of the sea otter, which are still so much prized in China; "mines which are known to lie between the latitudes 40° and 60°. north;" and also an "inexhaustible supply" of ginseng, for which there is still such a demand in China that even Minnesota, at the headwaters of the Mississippi, supplies her con- tribution. His catalogue might be extended now. iVs a practical illustration of this idea, it may be mentioned that for a long time most if not all the sea otter skins of this coast found their way to China, excluding even Russia her- self. China was the best customer, and there- fore Englishmen and Americans followed the Russian company in carrying these furs to her market, so that Pennant, the English natural- ist, impressed by the peculiar advantages of this coast, exclaimed, "What a jDrofitable trade with Ciiina might not a colony carry on were it possible to penetrate to that part of the country by means of rivers and lakes!" But under the present Treaty this coast is ours. The absence of harbors at present belong- ing to the Ifnited Slates on the Pacific limits the outlets of the country. On that whole extent, from Panama to Puget's sound, the only harbor of any considerable value is San Francisco. Further north the harbors are abundant, and they are all nearer to the great marts of Japan and China. But San Fran- cisco itself will be nearer by the way of the Aleutians than by Honolulu. The projection of maps is not always calculated to present an accurate idea of distances. From .measure- ment on a globe it appears that a voyage from San Francisco to Hong Kong by the common way of the Sandwich islands is 7,140 miles, but by way of the Aleutian islands it is only 6,060 miles, being a saving of more than one thousand miles, with the enormous additional advantage of being obliged to carry much less coal. Of course a voyage from Sitka, or from Puget sound, the terminus of the Northern Pacific railroad, would be shorter still. The advantages to the Pacific coast have two aspects, one domestic and the other foreign. Not only does the Treaty extend the coasting trade of California, Oregon, and Washington Territory northward, but it also extends the base of commerce with China and Japan. To unite the east of Asia with the west of America is the aspiration of commerce now as when the English navigator recorded his voy- age. Of course whatever helps this result is an advantage. The Pacific railroad is such an advantage, for, though running v\'e3tward, it will be, when completed, a new highway to the East. This Treaty is another advantage, for nothing can be clearer than that the western coast must exercise an attraction which will be felt in China and Japan just in proportion as it is occupied by a commercial people com- municating readily with the Atlantic and with Europe. This cannot be done without conse- quences not less important politically than com- mercially. Owing so much to the Union, the people there will be bound to it anew, and the national unity will receive another confirma- tion. Thus the whole countr)' will be a gainer. So are we knit together that the advantages to the Pacific coast will contribute to the general welfare. Extension of Dominion, (2.) The extension of dominion is another consideration, calculated to captivate the pub- lic mind. Few are so cold or philosophical as to regard with insensibility a widening of the bounds of country. Wars have been regarded as successful when they have given a new ter- ritory. The discoverer who had planted the flag of his sovereign on a distant coast has been received as a conqueror. The ingratitude which was shown to Columbus during his later days was compensated by the epitaph that he had given a new world to Castile and Leon. His discoveries were continued by other navi- gators, and Spain girdled the earth with her possessions. Portugal, France, Holland, Eng- land, each followed the example of Spain and rejoiced in extended empire. Our territorial acquisitions are among the landmarks of our history. In 1803 Louisiana, embracing the valley of the Mississippi, was acquired from France for fifteen million dol- lars. In 1819 Florida was acquired from Spain for three million dollars. In 1845 Texas was annexed v/ithout any purchase, but subse- quently her debt was assumed to the amount of seven and a half million dollars. In 1848 California, New Mexico, and Utah were ac- quired from Mexico after war, and on payment of fifteen million dollars. In 1854 Arizona was acquired from Mexico for ten million dol- lars. And now it is proposed to acquire Rus- sian America. The passion for acquisition, which is so strong in the individual, is not less strong in the community. A nation seeks an outlying territory, as an individual seeks an outlying farm. The passion shows itself constantly. France, passing into Africa, has annexed Alge- ria. Spain set her face in the same direction, but without the same success. There are two great Powers with Ti^hich annexation has be- come a habit. One is Russia, which from the time of Peter the Great has been moving her flagfoi'ward in every direction, so that on every 13 side her limits have been extended. Even now the report comes that she is lifting her south- ern landmarks in Asia, so as to carry her boundary to India. The other annexationist is Great Britain, which from time to time adds another province to her Indian dominion. If the United States have from time to time added to their dominion tlicy have only yielded to the universal passion, although I do not forget that the4ate Theodore Parker was accustomed to say that among all people the Anglo-Saxons were remarkable for "a greed of land." It was land, not gold, that aroused the Anglo-Saxon phlegm. I doubt, however, if this passion be stronger with us than with others, except, per- haps, that in a community where ail jKirtici- pate in government the national sentiments I are more active. It is common to the human family. There are few anywhere who could hear of a considerable accession of territory, obtained peacefully and honestly, without a pride of country, even if at certain moments the judgment hesitated. With an increased size on the map there is an increased con- sciousness of strength, and the citizen throbs anew as he traces the extending line. Extension of Republican Institutions. (3.) More than the extension of dominion is the extension of republican institutions, which is a traditional aspiration. It was in this spirit that Independence was achieved. In the name of Human Rights our fathers overthrew the ' kingly power, whose representative was George the Third. They set themselves openly against this form of government. They were against it for themselves, and offered their example to *^ mankind. They were Roman in character, and turned to Roman lessons. With a cynical austerity the early Cato said that kings were "carnivorous animals," and at his instance the Roman Senate decreed that no king should be allowed within the gates of the city. A kin- dred sentiment, with less austerity of form, has been received from our fathers; but our city can bo nothing less than the North Amer- ican continent with its gates on all the sur- rounding seas. John Adams, in the preface to his Defense of the American Constitution, written in Lon- don, where he resided at the time as minister, and dated January 1,1787, at Grosvenor Square, the central seat of aristocratic fashion, after exposing the fabulous origin of the kingly power in contrast with the simple origin of our republican constitutions, thus for a mo- ment lifts the curtain of the future: "Thirteen governments," he says plainly, "thus founded on the natural autliority of the people alone, and without any pretense of miracle or mys- tery, and ichick arc destined to spread over the northern part of that whole quarter of the^ globe, is a great point gained in favor of the' rights of mankind." (John Adams's Works, vol. 4, p. 20:].) Thus, according to tliis pro- phetic minister, even at that early day was the destiny of the Republic manifest. It was to spread over tlie northern part of tli(> Amer- ican quarter of the globe; and it was to be a support to the rights of mankind. IJy the text of our Constitution the United St,ates are bound to guaranty a "republican form of government" to every State in this Union; but this obligation, which is only ap- jilicalde at homo, is an unquestionable indi- cation of the national aspiration everywhere. The Republic is something more than a local policy ; it is a general principle, not to be for- gotten at any time, especially when the oppor- tunity is presented of bringing an immense region within its influence. Elsewliere it has lor the present failed: but on tliis account our example is more important. Who can forget the generous lament of Lord Byron, whose passion for fi'GPdiTrti was not mitigated by his rank as an hereditary legislator of England, when he exclaims in memorable verse: "The name of commonwealth is past and gone O'er the three fractions of the groaning globe!" Who call forget the salutation which the poet sends to the "one great clime," wiiich, nursed in fr«fedom, enjoys what he calls "the proud distinction" of not being confounded with other lands, , "Whose sons mu.«t bow them at a monarch's motion. As if his seustless scepter were a wand!" The present Treaty is a visible step in the occupation of the whole North American con- tinent. As such it will be recognized by the world and accepted by the American people. But the Treaty involves something more. By it we dismiss one more monarch from this continent. One by one they hav^ retired; first France ; then .Spain ; then France again ; and nowllussia ; all giving way to that absorb- ing Unity which is declared in the national motto, E pluribus ttman. Anticipation of Great Britain. (4.) Another motive to this acquisition may be found in a desire to anticipate the imagined schemes or necessities of Great Britain. With regard to all these I confess my doubts, and yet, if we may credit report, it would seem as if there was already a British movement in this direction. Sometimes it is said that Great Britain desires to buy if Russia will sell. STFTleorge Simpson, governor-in-chicf of the Hudson Bay Company, declared that without the strip on the coast underlet to the former by the Russian Company tlie interior would be "comparatively useless to England." Here, then, is a provocation to buy. Sometimes report assumes a graver character. A German scien- tific journal, in an elaborate paper entitled "The Russian Colonies on the Northwest Coast of America," after referring to the constant "pres- sure" upon Russia, proceeds to say that there are already crowds of adventurers from British Columbia and California now at the gold rnines ontheStikine, which flows from British territory 14 tlirongh the Russian possessions, who openly declare their purpose of driving the Russians out of this region. I refer to the ArcTiiv filr WissenschaftUche Kunde von Russlaiid, edited at Berlin as late as 1863, by A. Erman, vol. 22, pp. 47-70, and unquestionably the leading authority on Russian questions. At the same time it presents a curious passage bearing di- rectly on British policy from the British Colo- nist, a newspaper of Victoria, on Vancouver's island. As this was regarded of sufficient im- portance to be translated into German for the instruction of the readers of a scientific jour- nal, I shall be justified in laying it beforeyou restored from the German to English. It is as follows : "The information which we daily publish from the Stikine river very naturally excites public attention to a great extent. Whether the territory through which the river Hows bo considered in a political, com- mercial, or industrial light there is a probability that in a short time there will be a still more general in- terest in the claim. Not only will the intervention of the royal jurisdiction be demanded in order to give to it a complete form of government, but if the land proves to be as rich as there is now reason to believe it to be it is not improbable that it will result in negotiations between England and Russia for the transfer of the sea-coast to the British Crown. It certainly is not acceptable that a stream like the Stikine, which for one hundred and seventy to one hundred and ninety miles is navigable for steam- ers, which waters a territory so rich in gold that it will allure thousands of men— certainly it is not desirable that the business of such a highway should reach the interior through a Russian door of thirty miles of coast. The English population which occupies the interior cannot be so easily managed by the Rus- sians as the Stikine Indians of the coast manage the Indians of the interior. Our business must be in British hands. Our resources, our energies, our undertakings cannot be fully developed in building up a Russian emporium at the mouth of the Stikine. We must have for our productions a depot over which the British flag waves. By the treaty of 1825 the navi- gation of the river is secured to us. The navigation of the Mississippi was also open to the United States before the Louisiana purchase, but the grovfing Strength of the North made the attainment of that territory either by purchase or by might an evident necessity. Wo look upon the sea-coast of Stikine land in the same light. The strip of land which stretches along from Portland canal to Mount St. Elias with a breadth of thirty miles, and which according to the treaty of 1825 forms a part of Russian America, mjtsi eventually become the property of Great Britain, either as the direct result of the development of gold, or for reasons which are now yet in the beginning, but whose results arc certain. Forit is clearly undesirable that the strip three hundred miles long and thirty miles wide which is only used by the Russians for the collection of furs and walrus teeth shall forever control the entrance to our very extensive northern territory. It is a principle of England to acquire tcrritorv only as a point of defense. Canada, Nova Sootia, Malta, the Cape of Good Hope, and the great part of our Indian possessions were all acquired as defensive points. In Africa, India, and China the same rule is to-day followed by the Government. With a Power like Russia it would perhaps bo more difficult to get ready, but if we need the sea-coast to help us in our business in the precious metals with the interior and for defense then we must have it. The United States needed Ploridaand Louisiana, and they took them. We need the shore of New Norfolk and New Cornwall. " It is just as much the destiny of our Anglo-Norman race to possess the whole of Russian America, how- ever wild and inhospitable it may be, as it has been the destiny of the Russian Northmen to prevail over northern Ikirope and Asia. As the wandering .Jew and his phantom in the tale of Eugene Sue, so will the Anglo-Norman and the Russian yet look upon each other from the opposite side of Behring straits. Be- tween the two races the northern half of the Old and New World must be divided. America must be ours. "The present development of the precious metals in our hyperborean Eldorado will most probably hasten the annexation of the territory in question. It can hardly be doubted that the gold region of the Stikine extends away to the western source of the Mackenzie. In this case the increase of the business and of the population will exceed our most sanguine expecta- tions. Who shall reap the profit of this? The mouths of rivers have as well before as since the time of railroads controlled the businessof the interior. For our national pride the thought, however, is unbear- able that the Russian eagle should possess a point which owes its importance to the British lion. The mouth of the Stikine mustbe ours, or at least an outer harbor must be established on British soil from which our steamers can pass the Russian girdle. Fort ■Simpson, Dundas Land, Portland canal, orsome other, convenient point, must be selected for this purpose. The necessity of speedy action in order to secure the control of tlie Stikine is apparent. If we let slip the opportunity, so shall we permit a Russian State to arrive at the door of a British colony." Thus if we may credit this colonial ejacula- tion, caught up and preserved by German science, the Russian possessions were destined to round and complete the domain of Great Britain on this continent. The Russian "eagle" was to give way to the British "lion." The Anglo-Norman was to be master as far as Behring straits, across which he might survey his Russian neighbor. How this was to be accomplished is not precisely explained. The promises of gold on the Stikine failed, and it is not improbable that this colonial plan was as unsubstantial. Colonists become ex- cited easily. This is not the first time in which Russian America has been menaced in a similar way. During the Crimean war there seemed to be in Canada a spirit not unlike that of the Vancouver journalist, unless we are misled by the able, pamphlet of Mr. A. K. Roche, of Quebec, where, after describing Russian America as "richer in resources and capabilities than it has hitherto been allowed to be either by the English who shamefully gave it up, or by the Russians who cunningly obtained it," the author urges an expedition for its conquest and annexation. His propo- sition fell on the happy termination of the war, but it exists as a warning, with a notice also of a former English title, "shamefully" aban- doned. This region is distant enough from Great Britain ; but there is an incident of past his- tory which shows that distance from the metro- politan Government has not excluded the idea of war. Great Britain could hardly be more jealous of Russia on these coasts than waa Spain in a former day, if we may credit the re- port of Humboldt. I quote again his author- itative work, Essai Politique sur la Nouvelle Espagne, (Tom. 1, page 345,) where it is re- corded that as early as 1788, even while peace was still unbroken, the Spaniards could not bear the idea of Russians in this region, and when in 1790 the Emperor Paul declared war on Spain the hardy project was formed of an expedition from the Mexican ports of Monterey and San 15 Bias against the Russian colonies, on which the philosophic traveler remarks, in words which are recalled by the Vancouver manifesto, that "if this project had been executed the world would have witnessed two nations in conflict, which, occupying the opposite extremities of Europe, fo'.ind themselves neighbors in another hemisphere on the eastern and western bound- aries of their vast empires." Thus notwith- standing an intervening circuit of half the globe two great Powers were about to encounter each other on these coasts. But I hesitate to believe that the British of our day in any considerable numbers have adopted the early Spanish dis- quietude at the presence, of Russia on this contiueut. The Amity of Russia. (5.) There is still another consideration con- cerning this Treaty which must not be disre- garded. It attests and assures the amity of Russia. Even if you doubt the value of these possessions, the Treaty is a sign of friendship. It is a new expression of that entente cordiale between the two Powers which is a phenome- non of history. Though unlike in institu- tions, they are not unlike in recent experi- ence. Sharers of a common glory in a great act of Emancipation, they also share together the opposition or antipathy of other nations. Perhaps this experience has not been without its effect in bringing them together. At all events, no coldness or unkindness has inter- fered at any time with their good relations. The archives of the State Department show an uninterrupted cordiality between the two Governments dating far back in our history. More than once Russia has offered her good offices between the United States and Great Britain; once also she was a recognized arbi- trator. She offered her mediation to prevent war in 1812, and again by her mediation in 1815 brought about peace. Afterwards it was under her arbitration that questions with Great Britain arising under the treaty of Ghent were amicably settled in 1822. But it was during our recent troubles that we felt more than ever her friendly sentiments, although it is not improb- able that the accident of position and of dis- tance had its influence in preserving these undisturbed. The Rebellion, which tempted 80 many other Powers into its embrace, could not draw Russia from her habitual good will. Her solicitude for the Union was early de- clared. She made no unjustifiable concession of ocean belligerency, with all its immunities and powers, to rebels in arms against the Union. She furnished no hospitality to rebel cruisers ; nor was any rebel agent ever re- ceived, entertained, or encouraged at St. Petersburg; while, on the other )iand, there •was an understanding that the United States should be at liberty to carryprizes into Russian Eorts. So natural and easy were the relations etween the two Governments that such com- plaints as incidentally arose on either side were amicably adjusted by verbal explanations with- out any written controversy. Positive acts occurred to strengthen these relations. As early as 18G1 the two Govern- ments came to an agreement to act together for the establishment of a connection between San Francisco and St. Petersburg by an inter- oceanic telegraph across Behring straits ; and this agreement was subsequently sanctioned by Congi'ess. Meanwhile occurred the visit of the Russian fleet in the winter of 18G3, which was intended by the Emperor and accepted by the United States as a friendly demonstration. This was followed by a communication of the Secretary of State, dated 2Glh December, 1864, in the name of the President, invitingthe Arch- duke Constantino to visit the United States, in which it was suggested that such a visit would be " beneficial to us and by no means unprofitable to Russia," but forbearing '*to specify reasons," and assuringhim that coming as a national guest he would receive a cordial and most demonstrative welcome. Affairs in Russia prevented the acceptance of this invita- tion. Afterwards, in the spring of 186G, Con- gress by solemn resolution declared the sym- pathies of the people of the United States with the Emperor on his escape from the madness of an assassin, and Mr. Fox, at the time Assist- ant Secretary of the Navy, was appointed to take the resolution of Congress to the Emperor, and, in discharge of this trust, to declare the friendly sentiments of our country for Russia. He was conveyed to Cronstadt in the monitor Miantonomah, the most formidable ship of our Navy ; and thus this agent of war became a messenger of peace. The monitor and the min- ister were received in Russia with unbounded hospitality. In relations such as I have described the cession of territory seems a natural transaction entirely in harm'ony with the past. It remains to hope that it may be a new link in an amity which, without effort, has overcome differences of institutions and intervening space on the globe. SHALL THE TREATY BE RATIFIED? Such are some of the obvious considerations of a general character bearing on the Treaty. The interests of the Pacific States ; the exten- sion of the national domain ; the extension of republican institutions ; the foreclosure of adverse British possessions and the amity of Russia; these are the points which we have passed in review. Most of these, if not all, are calculated to impress the public mind ; but I can readily understand a difference of opinion with regard to the urgency of negotiation at this hour. Some may think that the purchase- money and the annual outlay which must fol- low might have been postponed for another decade, while Russia continued in possession as a trustee for our benefit. And yet some of the reasons for the Treaty do not seem to allow delay. At all events, now that the Treaty has been 16 signed by plenipotentiaries on each side duly empowered, it is difficult to see liow we can refuse to complete the purchase without putting to hazard the friendly relations which happily subsist between the United States and Russia. The overtures originallj' proceeded from us. After a delay of years, and other intervening propositions, the bargain was at length con- cluded. It is with nations as with individuals. A liargain once made must be kept. Even if still open to consideration it must not be liglitly abandoned. I am satisfied that the dishonor of this Treaty, after what has passed, would be a serious responsibility for our country. As an international question, it would be tried by the public opinion of the world, and there are many, who, not appreciating the requirement of our Constitution by which a Treaty must have '"the advice and consent of the Senate," would regard its rejection as bad faith. There would be jeers at us and jeers at Russia also ; at us for levity in making overtures, and at Russia for levity in yielding to them. Had the Sen- ate been consulted in advance, before the Treaty was si*;ned or either Power publicly committed, as is often done on important occasions, it would now be untler less constraint. On such a con- sultation there would have been an opportunity for all possible objections, and a large latitude to a reasonable discretion. Let me add that, while forbearing objection now, I hope that this Treaty may not be drawn into a precedent at least in the independent manner of its nego- tiation. I would save to the Senate an import- ant power that justly belongs to it. A CAVEAT. But there is one other point on which I file my caveat. This Treaty must not be a prece- dent for a system of indiscriminate and costly annexation. Sincerely believing that repub- lican institutions under the primacy of the Uni- ted States must embrace this whole continent, I cannot adopt the sentiment of Jefferson, who while confessing satisfaction in settlements on the Pacific coast saw there in the future noth- ing but "free and independent Americans," bound to the United States omy by "ties of blood and interest" without political unity. Nor am I willing to restrain myself to the prin- ciple so tersely expressed by Andrew Jackson in his letter to President Monroe, ' ' Concentrate our population, confine our frontier to proper limits, until our country, to those limits, is filled with a dense population." But I cannot dis- guise my anxiety that every stage in our pre- destined future shall be by natural processes without war, and I would add even without purchase. There is no territorial aggVandize- ment which is worth the price of blood. Only under peculiar circumstances can it become the subject of pecuniary contract. Our triumph should be by growth and organic expansion in obedience to "preestablished harmony," rec- ognizing always the will of those who are to become our fellow- citizens. All this must be easy if we are only true to ourselves. Our motto may be that of Goethe, ""Without haste, with- out rest." Let the Republic be assured in tranquil liberty with all equal before the law and it will conquer by its sublime example. More happy than Austria, who acquired pos- sessions by marriage, we shall acquire them by the attraction of republican institutions ; "Bella gerant alii; tu, fclix Austria, nube; Nam qu£3 Mars aliis, dat tibi regna Venus." The famous epigram will be just as applicable tons, inasmuch as our acquisitions will be under the sanction of wedlock to the Republic. There may be wedlock of a people as well as of a prince. . Meanwhile our first care should be to improve and elevate the Republic, whose sway will be so comprehensive. Plant it with schools ; cover it with churches ; fill it with libraries ; make it abundant with comfort so that poverty shall disappear : keep it constant in the asser- tion of Human Rights. And here we may fitly recall those words of antiquity, which Cicero quoted from the Greek, and which Webster ia our day quoted from Cicero, "You have a Sparta; adorn it." SOUECES OF INFORMATION ITPON RUSSIAN AMERICA, I am now brought to consider the character of these possessions and their probable value. Here I am obliged to confess a dearth of authentic information easily accessible. There are few among us who read Russian, so that works in this language are locked up from the world. One of these, in two large and showy volumes, is now before me, entitled "A Histor- ical Survey of the Formation of the Russian- American Company, and its progress to the present time, by P. Teshmenew, St. Peters- burg." The first volume appeared in 1860, and the second in 18G3. Here, among other things, is a tempting engraving of Sitka, wrapped in mists, with the sea before and the snow-capped mountains darkened with forest behind. Judg- ing from the table of contents, which has beea translated for me by a Russian, the book ought to be instructive. There is also another Russian work of an official character, which appeared in 1861 at St. Petersburg in the Morskoi Sbor- nich, or Naval Review, and is entitled "Ma- terials for the History of the Russian Colonies on the Coasts of the Pacific." The report of Captain Lieutenant Golowin made to the Grand Duke Constantine in 1861, with which we have become acquainted through a scientific Ger- man journal, appeared originally in the same review. These are recent productions. After the early voyages of Behring, first ordered by Peter the Great and supervised by the Impe- rial Academy at St. Petersburg, the spirit of geographical research seems to have subsided at St. Petersburg. Other enterprises absorbed the attention. And yet I would not do injus- tice to the voyages of Billings, recounted by Saner, or of Lisiansky, Krusenstern, and Langsdorf, or of Kotzebuc, all under the aus- pices of Russia, the last of which may com- 17 pare with any as a contribution to science. I may add Llitke also ; but Kotzebue was a wor- thy successor to IJehring and Cook. Beside these oflicial contributions, most of which are by no means fresh, there are mate- rials derived from casual navigators, who, scudding these seas, rested in the harbors there as the water- fowl on its flight; from whalemen, who were there merely as Nimrods of the ocean; or from adventurers in quest of the rich furs which it furnished. There arc also the gazetteers and geographies ; but they are less instructive on this head than usual, being founded on information now many years old. Perhaps no region of equal extent on the globe, unless we except the interior of Africa or possibly Greenland, is as little known. Here I do not speak for myself alone. A learned German, whom I have already quoted, after saying that the explorations have been limited to the coast, testifies that "the interior, not only of the continent, but even of the island of Sitka, is to-day unexplored, and is in every respect terra incognita.'' The same has been repeated of the islands also. Admiral Llitke, w^hose circumnavigation of the globe began in 182-5, and whose work bears date in 18o-3, says of the Aleutian archipelago, that "although frequented for more than a century by Russian vessels and those of other nations it is to-day almost as little known as in the time of Cook." Another writer of authority, the compiler of the official work on the People of Russia, pub- lished as late as 1S0"2, speaks of the interior as '•a mystery." And yet another says that our ignorance with regard to this region would make it a proper scene for a chapter of Gullivers Travels. \Yhere so little was known there was scope for invention. Imagination was made to sup- ply the place of knowledge, and poetry pictured the savage desolation in much-admired verse. Campbell, in the Pleasures of Hope, while ex- ploring "earth'g loneliest bounds and ocean's wildest shore," reaches this region, which he portrays: "Lo! to the wintry winds the pilot yields. His bark careering o'er unfathbmcd fields. Now far he sweep?, where scarce a summer .«milc8, On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles; Cold on hi.s midnight watcli the breeaes blow. From wastes that .slumber in eternal snow. And waft across the wave's tumultuous roar The icolfs long howl from Ounalauku' g nhorc." All of which, SO far at least as it describes this region, is inconsistent with the truth. The poet ignores the isothermal line, which plays such a conspicuous part on the P.'icific coast. Here the evidence is positive. Port- lock, the navigator, who was there toward the close of the last century, after describing Cook's inlet, which is several degrees north of Ounalaska, 'records his belief "that the climate here is not so severe as has been gen- erally supposed ; for in the course of traffic with the natives they frequently brought ber- ries of several sorts, and in particular black- 2 berries equally fine with those met with in Eng- land." (Voyage, p. 118.) Kotzebue, who was here later, records that he found the weather "pretty warm at Ounalaska." (Voy.ige, vol. 1, p. 275.) South of the Aleutians the climate is warmer still. The poet ignores natural his- tory also as regards the distribution of animals. Curiously enough, it does not appear that tlicrf- are "wolves ' on any of the Aleutians. Coxr. in his work on Russian Discoveries, (p. 174,) records that "reindeer, bears, tcolces, and ice- foxes are not to be found on these islands," But he was never there. Meares, who was in those seas, says " the only animals on these islands are foxes, some of which are black." (Voyage, vol. 1, p. 10.) Cook, who v.-as at Ounalaska twice, and once made a prolonged stay, expressly says, "Foxes and weasels were the only quadrupeds we saw ; they told us that they had hares also." (Voyage, vol. 2, p. 518.) But quadrupeds like these hardly sustain the exciting picture. The same experienced navi- gator furnishes a glimpse of the inhabitants as they appeared to him, which would make us tremble if the "wolves" of the poet were numerous. He says that ''to all appearance they are the most peaceable, inoffensive people he ever met with;" and Cook had been at Ota- heite. "No such thing as an offensive or defensive weapon was seen amongst the natives of Ounalaska." {Ibid., pp. 509, 515.) Then at least the inhabitants did not share the ferocity of the "wolves" and of the climate. Another navigator fascinates us by a descrip- tion of the boats of Ounalaska, which struck him "with amazement beyopd expression;" and he goes on to say, "If perfect .symmetry, smoothness, and proportion constitute beauty, they are beautiful beyond anything that I ever beheld. I have seen some of them as trans- parent as oiled paper." (Billings's Voyages, p. 15.) But these are the very boats that buf- fet "the wave's tumultuous roar," while "the breezes" waft the " wolf's long howl." This same navigator introduces another feature. According to him the Russians sojourning there "seem to have no desire to leave this place, where they enjoy that indolence so pleasing to their minds." (P. 101.) The lotus eaters of Homer were no better off. The picture is com- pleted by another touch from L'litke. Admit- ting the want of trees on the island, the admiral suggests that their place is supplied not only by luxuriant grass, bilt by wood thrown upon the coast, including trunks of camphor from Chinese and .hipanese waters,, and "a tree which gives forth the odor of the rose." (Voyage, Tom. 1, p. 132.) Such is a small portion of the testimony, most of which was in print before the poet wrote. Nothing has been written about this region, whether the coast or the islands, more authen- tic or interesting than the narrative of Captain Cook on his third and last voyage. He saw with intelligence, and described with clearness almost elegant. The record of Captain Port- IB lock's voyage from London to tlie northwest coast in 1786, 1787, and 1788 seems to be honest, and is instructive. Captain Meares, whose voyage was contemporaneous, saw and exposed the importance of trade between the northwest coast and China. Vancouver, who came a little later, has described some parts of this coast. La Perouso, the unfortunate French navigator, has afforded another picture of the coast painted with French colors. Before him was La Maurelle, a Frenchman sailing in the service of Spain, who was on the coast in 1779, a portion of whose journal is preserved in the appendix to the volumes of La Pcrouse. After him was Marchand, also a Frenchman, who, during a voyage round the world, stopped here in 1791. The voyage of the latter, published in three quartos, is accom- panied by an Historical Introduction, which is a mine of information on all the voyages to this coast. Then came the several successive Russian voyages already mentioned. Later came the Voyage round the world by Captain Belcher, with a familiar sketch of life at Sitka, where he stopped in 1837, and an engraving representing the arsenal and light-house there. Then came the Journey round ike luorM in 1841 and 1842 by Sir George Simpson, gov- ernor-In-chief of the Hudson Bay Company, containing an account of a visit to Sitka and the hospitality of its governor. To these T may add The Nautical Magazine for 18411, vol- ume 18, which contains a few excellent pages about Sitka; the Journal of the London Geo- graphical Society for 1841, volume 11, and for 1852, volume K, where this region is treated under the head of Arctic languages and animal life ; Burney's Bussian and Northeastern Voy- ages ; the magnificent work entitled Les Pcuples de la Russie, which appeared at St. Petersburg in 1862, on the tenth centennial anniversary of tlie foundation of the Russian empire, a copy of which is in the Astor Library; the very recent work of Murray on the Geographical Distribution of Mammals; the work of Sir John Richardson, Fauna Boreali- Americana ; Latham on Nationalities in the chapters which treat of the population of Russian America ; the Encyclopedia Br itannica; and the admira- !ble Atlas of Physical Geography by Keith Johnston. I mention also an elaborate article Iby Holmberg, in the Transactions of the Fin- land Society of Sciences at Helsingfors, said to fcereplete with information on the Ethnography lofthe Northwest Coast. Perhaps the most precise and valuable infor- imation has been contributed by Germany. "The Germans are the best of geographers ; 'ibesides many Russian' contributions are in t^German. Mliller, who recorded the discover- '"ies of Behring, was a German. Nothing more J;important on this subject has ever appeared ^than the German work of the Russian Ad- jsmiral Von Wrangel, Sfatisfisrhe und FAhno- hgraphische Nachrichten uber die Russichen \lBesitzung^n an der Nordwestkliste von America, first published byBaerinhis Russian Beitrage in 1839. There is also the Verhandlimgen der Russisch- Kaiserlichen Mineralogischen Ges- sellschaft zu St. Petersburg, 1848 and 1849, which contains an elaborate article, in itself a volume, on the orography and geology of the northwest coast and the adjoining islands, at the end of which is a bibliographical list of the works and materials illustrating the discovery and history of the west half of North America and the neighboring seas. I may also refer generally to the Archiv fllr Wissenschaftliche Kunde von Riissland, edited by Erman, but especially the volume for 1863, containing the abstract of Golowin's report on the Russian sian Colonies in North America as it appeared originally in the Morskoi Sbornich. Besides these there are Wappaus Handbuch von Geo- graphic und Statistik von Nord Amerilca, pub- lished at Leipsic in 1855 ; P6terman in his Mittheilungen iiber wichtige neue Erforsch- ungen aitj' dem gesammtgebiete der Geographic for 1856, vol. 2, p. 486 ; for 1859, vol. 5, p. 41 ; and for 1863, voL 9, pp. 70, 236, 277, 278: Kittlilz JJenkw'drdigkeiten einer Reise nach dem Riissischen America durch Kamtschatka, published at Gotha in 1858 : also by the same author The Vegetation of the Coasts and Islands of the Pacific translated from the German and puldished at London in 1861. Much recent information has been derived from the great companies possessing the mo- nopoly of trade here. Latterly there has been an unexpected purveyor in the Russian Amer- ican Telegraph Company, under the direction of Colonel Charles L. Bulkley, and here our own countrymen come to help us. To this expe- dition we are indebted for authentic evidence with regard to the character of the country and the great rivers which traverse it. The Smithsonian Listitution and the Chicago Acad- emy of Sciences cooperated with the Telegraph Company in the investigation of the Natural i History of the region. Major Kennicott, a young naturalist, originally in the service of the Institution, and Director of the Museum of the Chicago Academy, was the enterprising chief of the Youkon division of the expedition. While in the midst of his valuable labors he died suddenly in the month of May last at Nulato, on the banks of the great river, the Kwich]iak, which may be called the Mississippi of the North, far away in the interior and on the confines of the Arctic Circle, where the sun was visible all night. Even after death he was still an ex- plorer. From this remote outpost his remains, after descending the unknown river in an Esqui- maux boat of seal skins, steered by the faithful companion of his labors, were transported by way of Panama to his home at Chicago, where he now lies buried. Such a» incident cannot be forgotten, and his name will always remind us of courageous enterprise, before which dis- tance and difficulty disappeared. He was not a beginner when he entered into the service of the Telegraph Company. Already he had vis- 19 ited the Youkon country by the way of the Mackenzie river, and contributed to the Smith- sonian Institution important information with regard to its geo{];rai)hy and natural history, some of which will be found in their reports. Nature in novel forms was open to him. The birds here maintained their kingdom. All about him was the mysterious breeding-place of the canvas-back duck, whose eggs, never before seen by a naturalist, covered acres. If we look to maps for information, here again we find ourselves disappointed. Latterly the coast is outlined and described with rea- sonable completeness ; so also are the islands. This is the contribution of navigators and of recent Russian charts. But the interior is little more than a blank, calling to mind "the path- less downs," where, according to Prior, the old geographers "place elephants instead of towns." 1 have already referred to what pur- ports to be a "General Map of the Russian Empire," published by the Academy of Sci- ences at St.* Petersburg in 1776, and repub- lished at London in 1787, whore Russian America does not appear. I might mention also that Captain Cook complained in his day of the Russian maps as "wonderfully errone- ous." On his return English maps recorded his explorations and the names he assigned to different parts of the coast. These were re- produced in St. Petersburg, and the Russian copy was then reproduced in London, so that geographical knowledge was very little ad- vanced. Some of the best maps of this region are by Germans, who always excel in maps. Here, for instance, is an excellent map of the Aleutian islands and the neighboring coasts, especially to illustrate their orography and geography, which will be found at the end of tlic volume of Transactions of the Imperial Mineralogical Society at St. Petersburg, to •which I have already referred. Late maps attest the tardiness of informa- tion. Here, for instance, is an excellent map of North America, purporting to be published by the Geographical Institute of Weimar as late as 1859, on which we have the Youkon pictured, very much like the Niger in Africa, as a large river meandering in the interior with- out any outlet to the sea. Here also is a Rus- sian map of this very region, as late as 1801, in which the course of the Youkon is left in doubt. On other maps, as in the Atlas of Keith Johnston, it is pictured under another name as entering into the Frozen ocean. But the secret is penetrated at last. Recent dis- covery by the enterprise of our citizens in the service of the lelegraph Company fixes that this river is an affluent of the Kwichpak, as the Missouri is an affluent of the Mississippi, and enters into Behring sea, by many months, between the parallels of 04° and 05°. After the death of Major Kennicott a division of his party, with nothing but a skin boat, ascended the river to Fort Youkon, where it bifurcates, and descended H again to Nulato, thus estab- lishing the entire course from its sources ia the Rocky mountains for a distance exceeding a thousand miles. I have before me now an outline maj) just prepared by our Coast Siir- rey, where this correction is made. But this is only the harbinger of the maturcr labors of our accomplished bureau when the coasts of tliis region are under the jurisdiction of the United States. In closing this abstract of authorities, being the chief sources of original information on this subject, I cannot forbear expressing my satisfaction that, with the exception of a single work, all these may be found in the Congres- sional Library, now so happily enriched by the rare collection of the Smithsonian Institution. Sometimes individuals are like libraries; and this seems to be illustrated in the case of Pro- fessor Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, who is thoroughly informed on all questions connected with the Natural History of Russian America, and also of George Gibbs, Esq., now of Washington, who is the depositary of valua- ble knowledge, the result of his own personal studies and observations, with regard to the native races. CHABACTEB AND VALUE OF RUSSIAN AMERICA. I pass now to a consideration of the char- acter and value of these possessions, as seen under these diflFerent heads: first, govern- ment; secondly y population; thirdly, climate; fourthly, vegetable products; fifthly, mineral products; sixthly, furs; and seventhly, fish- eries. Of these 1 shall speak briefly ir^ their order. There are certain wofds of a general character, which I introduce by way of preface. 1 quote from Blodgett on the Climatology of the United States and of the temperate Lati- tudes of the North American continent ; " It is most surprising that so littlo is known of the great islands and the long line of coast from Pulet's sound to Sitka, ample as its resources must be even for rccruitins the transient commerce of the Pacific, independent of its immense intrinsic value. To the region bordering the northern Pacific the finest mari- time positions belong throughout its entire <-xtent; and no part of the west of Europe exceeds it in the advantages of equable climate, fertile soil, ^ind com- mercial accessibility of the coast. The western slopo of the Rocky mountain system may be included a? a part of this maritime region, embracing an immense area from the forty-fifth to the sixtieth parallel and five degrees of longitude in width. The cultivable service of this district cannot be much less than three hundred thousand square miles." From this sketch, which is in the nature of a picture, I pass to the different heads. Government. I. The Russian settlements were for a long time without any regular Government. They were little more than temporary lodgments for purposes of trade, where the will of the stronger prevailed. The natives, who liad enslaved each other, became in turn the slaves of these .mercenary adventurers. C;iptain Cook records " llie great subjection" of the " natives at Ounalaska when he was there in 20 1778, and a Russian navigator, twenty years later, describes the islands generally as " under the sway of roving hunters more savage than any tribes he had hitherto met with." (Bill- ings's Voyage, p. 274.) At Ounalaskathe Rus- sians for a long time employed all the men in t!ie chase, "taking the fruits of their labor to themselves." The first trace of government which I find was in 1790, at the important island of Ko- dii-.k, or the Great Island, as it was called, where a Russian company was established under the direction of a Greek by thename of- Delaretf, who, according to the partial_ report of a Russian navigator, "governed with the strictest justice, as well natives as Russians, and established a school, where the young natives were taught the Russian language, read- ing, and writing." (Billings, p. 171.) Here were about fifty Russians, including officers of the company, and another person described as there "on the part of Government to collect tribute." The establishment consisted of five houses after the Russian fashion; barracks laid out on either side somewhat like the boxes at a coffee-house, with different offices, ■which are represented as follows: "An office of appeal to settle disputes, levy fines, and punish offenders by a regular trial ; here Del- areff' presides; and I believe that few courts of justice pass a sentence with more impartial- ity'; an office of receival and delivery, both for the company and for tribute ; the commissary's department; counting-house; all in this build- incr, at one end of which is Delareff's habita- tion." {Ibid., p. 173.) If this picture is not overdrawn, and it surely is, affairs here did not improve with time. It seems that there were various small com- panies, of which that at Kodiak was the most considerable, all of which were finally fused into one large Trading Company, known as the Russian American Company, which was organized in 1799, under a charter from the Emperor Paul, with the power of administra- tion throughout the whole region, including the coasts and the islands. In this respect it was not unlike the East India Company, which has played such a part in English history ; but it maybe more properly compared to the Hud- son Bay Company, of which it v/as a Russian counterpart. The charter was for a term of years, but it has been from time to time ex- tended, and, as I understand, is now on the point of expiring. The powers of the com- pany are sententiously described by the Ahna- nach de Gotha for 1867, where, under the head of Russia, it says that "to the present time Russian America has been the property of a covipany. ' ' I know no limitation upon the company, ex- cept that latterly it has been bound to appoint its chief functionary, called "Administrator General," from the higher officers of the Im- perial navy, when he becomes invested with what are declared the prerogatives of a gov- ernor in Siberia. This requirement has doubt- less secured the superior order of magistrates which the country has latterly enjoyed. Among these have been Baron Wrangel, an admiral, who was there at the time of the treaty with Great Britain in 1825; Captain Koupreanoff, who had commanded the Azof, a ship of the line, in the Black sea, and spoke English well; Captain Etholine; Admiral Fujurelm, who, after being there five years, was made gov- ernor of the province of the Amoor; Admiral Wodski and Prince Macksoutoff, an admiral also, who is the present Administrator Gen- eral. The term of service is ordinarily five years. Th':^ seat of government is the town of New Archangel, better known by its aboriginal name of Sitka, with a harbor as smooth and safe as a pond. Its present population cannot be far from one thousand souls, although even this is changeable. In the spring, when sailors leave for the sea and trappers for the chase, it has been reduced to as few as one hundred and eighty. It was not without a question that Sitka at last prevailed as the metropolis. Lutke sets forth reasons elaborately urged in favor of St. Paul on the island of Kodiak. (Voyage, Tom. 1, p. 153,) The first settlement there was in 1800 by Baranow, the superintendent of the company, whose life was passed in this country, and whose name has been given to the island. But the settlement made slow progress. Lisiansky, who was there in 1801, records that "from his entrance into Sitka sound there was not to be seen on the shore the least vestige of habita- tion." (P. 115.) The natives had set them- selves against a settlement there. Meanwhile the seat of government was at Kodiak, of which we have an early and friendly .glimpse. I quote what Lisiansky says, as exhibiting in a favorable light the beginning of that govern- ment which has been transferred to the United States: " The island of Kodiak, with therest of the Russian settlements along the northwest coast of America, are superintended by a kind of governor generalor com- mander-in-chief, who has agents under him. ap- pointed, like himself, bj- the company at Petersburg. The smaller settlements have each a Eussian over- seer. These overseers are chosen by the governor, and are selected for the office in consequence of their long services and orderly conduct. They have the power of punishing, to a certain extent, those whom they superintend; but are themselves amenable to the governor if they abuse their power by acts of injustice. The seat of government is on the harbor of St. Paul, which has a barrack, different store- houses, several respectable wooden habitations, and a church, the only one to be found on the coast."— Ibid., p. 214. From this time the company seems to have established itself on the coast. Lisiansky speaks of "a single hunting party of nine hun- dred men, gathered from different places, as x\laska, Kodiak, Kenay, Cook's inlet, and commanded by thirty-six toyons, who are sub- ordinate to the Russians in the service of the ! American company, and receive from them 21 their orders." {Ibid., 1'j3.) From another source I learn that the inhabitants of Kodiak and of the Aleutian islands were regarded as •'immediate subjects of tl>e company;" the males from eighteen to fifty being bound to serve it for the term of three years each. They were employed in the chase. The popu- lation of Alaska "and of the two great bays, Cook's inlet and Prince William sound, were also subject to the company ; but they were held to a yearly tax in furs without any regular ser- vice, and they could trade only with the com- pany. Otherwise they ware independent. This seems to have been before the division of the whole into districts, all under the company, which, though primarily for the business of the company, may be regarded as so many dis- i tinct jurisdictions, each with local powers of i government. 1 Among these were two districts which 1 mention only to put aside, as not included in the present cession: (1.) The Kurile Mauds, being the group nestling near the coast of Japan, on tiie Asiatic side of the dividing line between the two continents. (2.) The Boss settlement • in California, now abandoned. There remain five other districts: (1.) The DiMrict o/Atcha, with the bureau at this island, embracing the two western groups of the Aleu- tians known as the Andreanowsky islands and the Rat islands ; and also the group about Beh- ring's island, which is' not embraced in the present cession. (2.) The District of Oitna- lasJca, with the bureau at this island, embrac- ing the Fox islands, the peninsula of Alaska to the meridian of the .Shumagin islands, including these and also the Prybelov islands to the north of the peninsula. (3.) The District of Kodiak, embracingihe peninsula of Alaska •east of the meridian of the Shumagin islands, and the coast westward to Mount St. Elias, with the adjacent islands, including Kodiak, Cook's inlet, and Prince William sound; then northward along the coast of Bristol bay, and the country watered by the Xushagak and Kus- kokwim rivers; all of which is governed from Kodiak with redoubts or palisaded stations at Nushagak, Cook's inlet, and Prince William sound. (4.) The Northern District, embracing the country of the Kwichpak and of Norton's sound, under the direction of the commander of the redoubt at St.* Michaels; leaving the country northward, with the islands St. Law- rence and St. Mathews, not embraced in this dis- trict, but visited direct from Sitka, (o.) The 7)1.9- trict of Sitka, embracing the coast from Mount St. Elias, where the Kol^k district ends, south- ward to the latitude of 5 1*^ 40'', with the adjacent islands. But this district has been curtailed by a lease of the Russian American Company in 1830, for the space of ten years, and subse- quently renewed, in which this company, in consideration of the annual payment of two thousand otter skins of Columbia river, under- lets to the Hudson Bay Company all its fran- chise for the strip of continent between Cape Spencer at the north and the latitude of 54° 40', excluding the adjacent islands. The central government of all these districts is at Sitka, from which emanates all orders and instructions. Here also is the chief factory, from which supplies are forwarded to diffor<;nt places, and where the proceeds of the trade are collected. The operations of the Government may Ije seen in its receipts and expenditures, including its salaries and allowances. In the absence of a complete sories of such statistics to tlie present time, I mass together what I have been able to glean in different fields, relating to par- ticular years, knowing well its unsatisfactory character. But each item has its instruction for us. The capital of the company, in buildings, wares, and vessels, in 18o3, was said to be 3,G58,577 rubles. In 1838 the company pos- sessed twelve vessels, amounting together to fifteen hundred and fifty-six tons, most of which were built at Sitka. According to Wappaus, who follows Wrangel, the salaries of the officers and workmen of the company in 1832 amounted to 442,877 rubles. At that time the persons in its service numbered 1,025, of whom 5-56 were Russians, 152 Creoles, and 317 Aleutians. In 1851 there were in the service of the company 1 staff officer, 3 officers of the Imperial navy, 1 officer of engineers, 4 civil officers, 30 relig- ious officers, and 686 servants. The expenses of the company from 1826 to 1833, a period of seven years, were 6,608,077 rubles. These become interesting to us when it is considered that, besides what was paid on account of furs, and the support of the persons in the service of the company, were other items incident to government, such as ship-building, navigation, fortifications, hospitals, schools, and churches. From a later authority it appears that the re- ceipts of the company, reported at St. Peters- burg for the year 1855, was 832,74'J rubles, against expenses, 683,892 rubles, incurred for "administration in Russia and the colonies," insurance, transportation, and duties. The relative proportion-of these different expenses does not appear. I have another report for 1857, where the revenue was 832,749 rubles, with expenditures of 683,892 rubles, leaving the difference for dividends, which were fixed at ] 8 rubles a share. These are explained by other statistics, which I am able to give from the report of Golowin, who furnishes the receipts and expenditures of the company from 1850 to 1859, inclusive. The silver ruble, which is the money employed in the table, is taken at our Mint for seventy-five cents. Receipts from 1850 to 1859, incl\ij/i/e of WappUus in 1856, and in the Archib von Bussland of 1803, con- taining the article on the report of Golowin. I am thus particular with regard to them from a double motive. Besides helping to an under- Ij standing of the existing government they may afford suggestions of practical importance in any future organization. The company has not been without criticism. Some of the pictures of it are by no means rose color. These, too, may furnish instruc- tion for the future. Early in the century its administration was the occasion of open and repeated complaint. It was pronounced harsh and despotic. Langsdorf is indignant that "a free-trading company should exist independent of the Government, not confined within any definite regulations, but who can exercise their authority free and uncontrolled, nay, even unpunished, over so vast an extent of coun- try." In stating the case he adds that "the Russian subject here enjoys no protection of his property, lives in no security, and if op- pressed has no one to' whom he can apply for justice. The agents of the factories and their subordinates, influenced by humor or interest, decide everything arbitrarily." (Voyages, vol. 2, p. 70.) And this arbitrary j^ower seemed to prevail wherever a factor}^ was established : "the stewardship in each single establishment , is entirely despotic; though nominally depend- ing upon the principal factory these stewards do just what they please, without the possibil- ity of being called to account." [Ibid., vol. 2, ^ p. 09. ) If such was the condition of Russians, what must have been that of the natives? Here the witness answers : " I have seen the Russian fur-hunters dispose of the lives of the natives solely according to their own arbitrary will, and put these defenseless creatures to death in the most horrible manner." (P. 70.) Kru- senstern concurs in this testimony, and, if p(Js- sjble, darkens the colors. According to him "everyone must obey the iron rule of the agent' of the American company; nor can there be either personal property or individual security where there are no laws. The chief agent of the American company is the bound- less despot over an extent of country which, comprising the Aleutian islands, stretches from, 57° to 60° of latitude and from 130° to 190° of east longitude;" and he adds, in a note, "there are no courts of justice in Kodiak, nor . any of the company's possessions." (Voyages, vol. 2, p. 107.) Kotzebue, who came later, while confessing his incompetency to speak on the treatment of the natives by the company, declares his "wounded feelings and commis- eration." (Voyage, vol. 3, p. 314.) It is too probable that the melancholy story of our own aborigines has been repeated here. As these criticisms were by Russian officers they must have had a certain effect. I cannot believe that the recent government, administered by the enlightened magistrates of whom we have heard, has been obnoxious to such terrible accusations; nor must it be forgotten that the report of Lisiansky, the other Russian officer, who was there at the same time, is much less painful. Baranow, who had been so long superin- tendent, retired in 1818. He is praised much by Langsdorf, who saw him in 1806, and by LUtke, who was at Sitka in 1828. Both attrib- ute to him a genius for his place and a disin- terested devotion to the interests of the com- 23 pany, whose confidence he enjoj'ed to the end. Although administering afifairs here for more than a generation witliout rendering any ac- counts, he died poor. He was succeeded by Captain Haguemeister. Since then, according to Liitke, an infinity of reforms has taken place by which order and system have been introduced into the government. The Russian olficer, Captain Golowin, who visited these possessions in 18G0, has recom- mended certain institutional I'eforms, which afe not without interest to ns at tiiis time. His recommendations concern the governor and the people. According to him the governor should be appointed by the Crown with the concur- rence of the company, removable only when his continuance is plainly injurious to tlie col- ony; he should be subject only to the Crown, and his powers should be limited, especially in regard to the natives ; he should provide pro- tection for the colonists by means of cruisers, and should personally visit every district annually ; the colonists, Creoles, and sul)ject natives, such as the Aleutians, should be governed by magis- trates of their own selection ; the name of "free. Creole" should cease; all disputes should be settled by the local magistrates unless the par- ties desire an appeal to the governor ; schools should be encouraged, and, if necessary, pro- vided at the public expense. Surely these sug- gestions, wiiich are in the nature of a Reform Bill, foreshadow a condition of self-government in harmony with republican institutions. It is evident that these Russian .settlements, distributed through an immense region and far from any civilized neighborhood, have little in •common with those of European nations else-- where, unless we except those of Denmark on the west coast of Greenland. Nearly all are on the coast or the islands. They are nothing but ''villages" or "factories," under tlie protec- tion of palisades. Sitka is an exception, due unquestionably to its selection as the head- quarters of the government, and also to the eminent character of the governors who have made it their home. The Executive Mansion and the social life there have been described by recent visitors, who acknowledged the charms of politeness on this distant nortliwestern coast. Liitke describes life among its fogs, and ofpe- cially the attractions of the governor's house. This was in the time of Admiral Wrangel, whose wife, possessing a higli education, embellished this wilderness by her presence, and exhibited the example of a refined and happy household. His account of .Sitkan hospitality differs in some respects from that of the English writers who succeeded. He records that fish was the staple dish at the tables of functionaries as well as of the poor, and that the chief functionary him- self was rarely able to have meat for dinner. During the winter a species of wild sheep, the Musimon or Argalis, also known in Siberia and hunted in the forests, furnished an occa- sional supply. But a fi.sh diet did not prevent liis house from being delightful. Sir Edward Belcher, the English circum,- navigator, while on his voyage round the world, stopped there. From him we have an account of th6 Executirc Mansion and fortifi- cations, which will not be out of place in this attempt to portray the existing goverumcnt. The house is of wood, described as "solid," one hundred and forty feet in length by seventy feet widcj of two stories, with lofts, capped by a light-house in the center of the roof which is covered with sheet iron. It is about sixty feet above the sea level, and completely com- mands all the audhorages in the neighborhood. Behind is a line of picketed logs twenty-five feet in height. Hanked at the angles by block- houses, loop-holed and furnished with small guns and swivels. The fortifications when com- plete "will comprise five sides, upon which forty pieces of cannon will be mounted, prin- cipally old ship guns, varying from twelve to twenty-four pounders." The arsenal is praised for the best ot cordage in ample stores and for the best of artificers in every department. Tho interior of the Greek church was found to be "splendid, quite' beyond conception in such a place as this. " The school and hospital had ' ' a comparative cleanliness and much to admire, although a man-of-war's man's ideas of clean- liness are occasionally acute." But it is the social life which seems to have most surprised the gallant captaifl. After telling us that " on Sunday all the officers, civil and military, dine at the governor's," he introduces us to an even- ing party and dance, which the latter gave to show his English guest "the female society of Sitka." and records that everything "passed delightfully," especially that " the ladies, although self-tauglit, acquitted themselves with all the ease and elegance communicated by European instruction." Sir Edward adds that "the society is indebted principally to the gov- ernor's elegant and accomplished lady, who is of one of the first Russian families, for muck of this poVsh. ' ' And he describes sympathet- ically her long journey through Siberia with her husband, "on horseback or mules, enduring great hardships in a most critical moment, in order to share with him the privations of this barbarous region." But according to him barbarism is disappearing ; and he concludes by declaring that "the whole establishment appears to be rapidly on the advance, and at no distant period we may hear of a trip to Norfolk sound through America as little more than a summer excursion." (Belcher's Voy- age, vol. 1, p. 107.) Is not this time near at hand ? Shortly afterwards. Sir George Simpson, governor-in-chief of the Hudson Bay Company, on his overland journey round the world, stopped at Sitka. He had just crossed the contuient by way of the Red river settlements to Vancouver. He, too, seems to have, been pleased. He shows us in the harbor ^' Rvq sail- ing vessels, ranging between two hundred and three hundred and fifty tons, besides a large , 24 bark in the offing in tow of a steamer," and he carries us to the Executive Mansion, ah-eady described, which reappears as " a suite of apart- ments, communicating, a,ccording to the Rus- sian fashion, with each other, all of the public rooms being handsomely decorated and richly furnished; commanding a view of the whole establishment, which was in fact a little village, while about half way down the rock twq bat- teries on terraces frowned respectively over land and water." There was another Administrator General since the visit of Sir Edward Belclier ; but again the wife plays her charming part. After portraying her as a native of Helsing- fors, in Finland, the visitor adds, "So this pretty and lady-like Avoman had come to this secliided home from the farthest extremify of the empire." Evidently in a mood beyond contentment, he says, " We sat down to a good dinner in the French style, the party, in addi- tion to our host and hostess and ourselves, com- prising twelve of the company's officers;" and his linal judgment seems to be given when he says, "The good folks appear to live well. The surrounding country abounds in the chevreuil, [roebuck,] the finest meat that I everate, with the single exception of moose, while in a little stream within a mile of the fort salmon are so plentiful that, when ascending the river, they have been known literally Jo embari-ass the movements of a canoe." (Simpsons' s Journey, vol. 1, page 227.) Such is the testimony. With these concluding pictures I turn from the government. Population. II. I come now to the Population, which may be considered in its numbers and in its character. In neither respect, perhaps, can it add much to the value of the country, except so far as native hunters and trappers are needed for the supply of furs. Professor Agassiz touches this point in a letter which I have just received from him, where he says: "To me the fact that there is as yet hardly any popula- tion would have great weight, as this secures the settlement to our race." But we ought to know, something at least of the people about to become the subjects of our jurisdiction, if not our fellow-citizens. First. In trying to arrive at an idea of their immbers, I begin with Lippincott's Gazetteer, as it is the most accessible, according to which the whole poiKilation in 1855, aboriginal, Rus- sian, and Creole, was G1,000. The same esti- mate appears also in the London Imperial Gazetteer and in the Geographic of WappUus. Keith Johnston, in his Atlas, calls the popu- lation in 1852, 6G,000. McCalloch, in the last edition of his Geographical Dictionary, puts it as high as 72,875. On the other hand, the Ahnaiiach de 6'o/Aa for the present year, re- ceived only a few weeks ago, calls it in round numbers 50,000. This estimate seems to have been adopted sul)staBtially from the great work entitled Les Peirples de la Piissic, which from its character I am disposed to consider as the best authority. Exaggerations are common with regard to the inhabitants of newly-acquired possessions, and this distant region has been no excefition. An enthusiastic estimate once placed its popu- lation as high as four hundred thousand. Long ago Schelekoff, an early Russian adventurer, reported that he had subjected to the Crown of Russia fifty thousand "men" in the island of Kodiak alone. But Lisiansky, who followed him there in 1805, says " the population of this ioland, wlien compared with its size, is very small." (Voyage, p. 193.) Afterthe " minutest research' ' at that time he found that it amounted only to four thousand souls. It is much less now ; probably not more than fifteen hundred. Of course it is easy to know the number of those within the immediate jurisdiction of the , company. This is determined by a census from time to time. Even here the aborigines are the most numerous. Then come the Creoles, and last the Russians. ■ But here you must bear in mind a distinction with regard to the former persons. In Spanish America all born there of European parentage are "Creoles;" in Rus- sian America this term is applicable only to those whose parents are European and native, in other words "half-breeds." According to Wrangel, in 1839, the census of dependents of the company in all its districts was 240 Rus- sians, 684 Creoles, and 8,882 Aleutians and Kodiaks, being in all 9,812. Ofthese 4,918 were men and 4,804 were women. Here the number of Russians is small. There is another report a little later preserved by Wappaus, which is not materially different. In 1851, according to the report of the company, there was an increase of Russians and Creoles, with a cor- responding diminution of aboi'igines ; being 505 Russians, 1,703 Creoles, and 7,055 aborigines, in all 9,283. In 1857 there were 644 Rus- sians, 1,903 Creoles, and 7,245 aborigines, in all 9,792, of whom 5,733 were men and 4,659 were women. The increase from 1851 to 1857 was only 500, or about one per cent, annually. In 18(j0"there were "some hundred" Russians, 2,000 Creoles, and 8,000 aborigines, amounting in all to 10,540, of whom 5,382 were men and 5,158 were women. I am thus particular with these details that you may see how stationary population lias been even within the sphere of the company. The number of Russians and Creoles in the whole colony at the present time cannot be more than 2,500. The number of aborigines under the direct government of the company may be 8,000. There remain also the mass of aborigines outside the jurisdiction of the com- pany, and having only a temporary or casual contact with it for purposes of trade. In this respect they are not unlike the aborigines of the United States while in their tribal condi- tion, descriljcd so often as "Indians not taxed." For the number of these outside aborigines I prefer to follow the authority of the recent work 25 already quoted, Les Peiiples de la Russie, ac- cording to which they are estimated at between forty and fifty thousand. Sccondli/. In spcukiug of charadei' I turn to a different class of materials. The early Rus- sians here were not Pilgrims. They were mostly runaways, fleeing from justice. Langsdorf says that *'the greater part of the inferior oflicers of the different settlements were Siberian crim- inals, malefactors, and adventurers of various kinds." (Vo)-ages, vol. 2, p. 07.) Theirsinglc and exclusive business was the collection of furs, from which they obtained the name of Promlischleniks, or fur collectors. But the name very early acquired a bad odor. Here again we have the same Russian authority, who, after saying that the inliabitants of the distant islands are under the superintendence of a Promlischlenik, adds, "which is, in other words, under that of a rascal, by whom they, are oppressed, tormented, and plundered in every possible way." {Ibid., p. 70.) It must not be forgotten that this authentic portrait is not of our day. The aborigines are all in common language called Esquimaux; but they differ essentially from the Esquimaux of Greenland, and they also differ among themselves. Though popu- larly known by this family name, they have as many divisions and subdivisions, with as many languages and idioms, as France once had. There are large groups, each with its own na- tionality and language, and there are smaller groups, each with its tribal idiom. In short, the great problem of language is repeated here. Its forms seem to be infinite. Scientific inquiry traces many to a single root, but prac- tically they are different. Here is that confu- sion of tongues which yields only to the pres- ence of civilization, and it becomes more i"emarkable, as the idiom is often confined to so small a circle. If we look at them ethnographically we shall find two i)rinclpal groups or races, the first scientifically known as Esquimaux, and the second as Indians. By another nomenclature, which has the sanction of authority and of usage, they are divided into Esquimaux, Aleu- tians, Kenaians, and Koloschians, being four distinct groups. * The Esquimau.^ and Aleu- tians are said to be Mongolian in origin. According to a doubtful theory they passed from Asia to America by the succession of isl- ands beginning on the ^;oast of Japan and extending to Alaska, which for this purpose became a bridge between the two continents. The Kenaians and Koloschians are Indians, belonging to known American races; so that these four groups are ethnographically re- solved into two, and the two are resolved pop- ularly into one. There are general influences more or less applicable to all these races. The climate is peculiar, and the natural features of the country are commanding. Cool summers and mild winters are favorable to the huntsman and fisherman. Lofty mountains, volcanic forms, large rivers, numerous islands, and an extensive sea-coast constitute the great book of nature for all to read. None are dull. Generally they are quick, intelligent, and in- genious, excelling in the chase and in naviga- tion, managing a boat as the rider his horse, until the man and the boat seem to be one. Some are very skillful with tools and exhibit remarkable taste. The sea is bountiful and the land has its supplies. From these they are sat- isfied. Better still, there is something in their nature which does not altogether reject the im- provements of civilization. Unlike our In- dians, they are willing to learn. ]5y a strange superstition, which still continues, these races derive their descent from dilferent animals. Some are gentle and pacific ; others are war- like. All, I fear, are slaveholders ; some are cruel task-masters, others in the interior are reputed to be cannibals. But the country back from the sea-coast is still an undiscovered secret. (1. ) Looking at them in their ethnographical groups I begin with the J^qut'maux, who popu- larly give their name to tne whole. They num- ber about seventeen thousand, and stretch along the indented coast from its eastern limit on the Frozen ocean to the mouth of the Copper river in G0° north latitude, excluding the peninsula of Alaska, occupied by the Aleutians, and the peninsula of Kenay, occupied by the Kenaians. More powerful races of Indian origin, following the courses of the great rivers northward and westward, have gradually crowded the Esqui- maux from the interior, until they constitute a belt on the salt water, including the islands of the coast, and especially Kodiak. Their vari- ous dialects are traced to a common root, while the prevailing language betrays an affinity with the Esquimaux of Greenland, and the interven- ing country watered by the Mackenzie. They share the characteristics of that extensive fam- ily, which, besides spreading across the conti- nent, occupies an extent of sea-coast greater than any other people of the globe, from which their simple navigation has sallied forth so as to give them the name of Phoenicians of the North. Words exclusively belonging to the Esquimaux are found in the dialects of other races com- pletely strangers to them, as Phojniciao sounds are observed in the Celtic speech of Ireland. Tlie most known of the Russian Esquimaux is the small tribe now remaining on the island of Kodiak, which from the beginning has been a center of trade. Although by various in- termixture they already approack the Indians of the coast, losing the Asiatic type, their speech remains as a distinctive sign of their race. They are Esquimaux, and I describe them in order to give an idea of this people. The men are tall, with copper skins, small black eyes, flat faces, and teeth of dazzling whiteness. Once the women pierced the nos- trils, the lower lip, and the ears for ornaments ; but now only the nostrils are pierced. The 26 aboriginal costume is still preserved, especially out of doors. Their food is mostly from the sea, without the roots or berries which the island supplies. The flesh and oil of the whale are a special luxury. The oil is drunk pure or to season other food. Accustomed to pro- longed abstinence, they exhibit at times an appetite amounting to prodigy. In one night six men were able to devour the whole of a large bear. A strong drink made from the strawberry and myrtle, producing the effect of opium, has yielded to brandy. Sugar and tea are highly esteemed ; but snufF is a delight. Lisiansky, records that they would go out of their way twenty miles merely for a pinch of snuff. They have tools of their own, which they use with skill. Their baidars, or canoes, are distinguished for completeness of finish and beauty of form. Unlike those of the Kolosch- ians, lower down on the coast, which are hol- lowed from the trunks of trees, they are of seal skins stretched on frames, with a single aper- ture in the covering to receive the person of the master. The same skill appears in the carving of wood, whalebone, and walrus ivory. Their genert# mode of life is said- to be like that of other tribes on the coast. To all else they add a knowledge of the healing art and a passion for gaming. Opposite to Kodiak, on the main land to the east, are the Tshugatchi, a kindred tribe, speaking the same language, but a different dialect. To the north is a succession of kin- dred tribes, differing in speech, and each with local peculiarities, but all are represented as kind, courteous, hospitable, and merry. It is a good sign that merriment should prevail. Their tribal names are derived from a neigh- boring river or some climatic circumstance. Thus, for instance, those on the mighty Kwich- pak have the name of Kwichpakmutes, or "inhabitants of the great river." Those on Bristol bay are called by their cousins of Nor- ton sound Akhkonghmutes, or "inhabitants of the warm country;" and the same designation is applied to the Kodiaks. Warmth, like other things in this world, is comparative, and to an Esquimaux at 64° north latitude another five degrees further south is in a " warm country." These northern tribes have been visited lately by our Telegraphic Exploring Expedition, who report especially their geographical knowledge and good disposition. As the remains of Major Kennicott descended the Kwichpak they were not without sympathy from the natives. Curi- osity also had its part. At a village where the boat rested for the night the chief announced that it was the first time white men had ever been seen there. (2.) The Aleutians, sometimes called West- ern Esquimaux, number about three thousand. By a plain exaggeration Knight, in his Cyclo- pedia of GcograpTiy, puts them at twenty thou- sand. Their home is the archipelago of vol- canic islands, whose name they bear, and also a portion of the contiguous peninsula of Alaska. The well-defined type has already disappeared ; but the national dress continues still. This is a long shirt with tight sleeves, made from the skins of birds, either the sea-parrot or the diver. This dress, which is called the parka, is indispensable as clothing, blanket, and even as habitation during a voyage, being a com- plete shelter against wind and cold. They, toOj are fishermen and huntsmen ; but they seem to excel as artificers. Their instruments and utensils have been noted for beauty, and their baidars were pronounced by Saner "infinitely superior to those of any other isl- and." Still another navigator declares them to be "the best means yet discovered to go from place to place, either upon the deepest or shallowest water. In the quickest, easiest, and safest manner possible." (Langsdorf's Voyage, vol. 1, p. 43.) These illustrate their nature, which is finer than that of their neigh- bors. They are at home on the water, and excite admiration by the skill with which they manage their elegant craft, so that Admiral LUtke recognized them as Cossacks of the sea. Ounalaska is the principal of these islands, and from the time they were first visited seems to have excited a peculiar Interest. Captain Cook painted it kjndly; so have succeeding navigators. And here have lived the Islanders who seem to have given to navigators a new experience. Alluding especially to them, the reporter of Billings's voyage says: "The capa- city of the natives of these islands infinitely surpasses every idea that I had formed of the abilities of savages." (P. 273.) There is another remark of this authority which sjiows how they had yielded, even in their favorite dress, to the demands of commerce. After sa3'ing that formerly they had worn garments of sea otter, he pathetically adds, "but not since the Russians have had any intercourse, with them." (P. 155.) Poor islanders! Ex- changing choice furs, once their daily wear, for meaner skins. (3.) The Kenaians, numbering as many as twenty-five thousand, take their common name from the peninsula of Kenay, with Cook's inlet on the north and Prince William sound on the south. Numerous beyond any other family in Russian America, they belong to a wide- spread and teeming Indian race, which occu- pies all the northern interior of the continent, stretching from Hudson bay in the east to the Esquimaux in th» west. This is the great nation called sometimes Athabascan, or from the native name of the Rocky mountains, on whose flanks they live, Chepewyan, but more properly designated as Tinneh, with branches in southern Oregon and northern Calitbrnia, and then again with other offshoots, known as the Apaches and Navajoes, in Arizona, New Mexico, and Chihuahua, more than thirty par- allels of latitude from the parent stem. Of this extended race, the northwestern branch, known to travelers as Loucheux, and In their own tongue as Kutcliin, after occupying the 27 inner portion of Russian America on the You- Icon and the Porcupine reached the sea-coast at Cook's inlet, where it appears under the name of Kenaians. 'J'he hitter are said to boar about the same rehitlon in language and intollcctual deveIo])ment to the entire group as the islanders of Kodialc bear to the Esquimaux. The Kenaians call themselves in their own dialect by yet another name, Thnainas, mean- ing men ; thus by a somewhat boastful designa- tion asserting manhood. Their features and complexion associate them with the red men of America, as does their speech. The first to visit theui was Cook, and he was struck by the largeness of their heads, which seemed to him disproportioned to the rest of the body. They were strqng-chested also, with thick short necks, spreading faces, eyes inclined to be small, white teeth, black hair, and thin beard. Their persons seemed to be clean and decent, without grease or dirt. In dress they were thought to resemble the people of Greenland. Their boats had a similar aflinity. But in these particulars they were not unlike the other races I have already described. They were clothed in the skins of animals with the fur outward, or sometimes in the skins of birds, over which, as a protection against rain, was worn a frock made from the intestines'of the whale and re- sembling the gold-beater leaf, as was observed by Behring in his early voyage. Their boats were of seal skin stretched on frames, and were of different s*zes. In one of these Cook counted twenty women and one man, besides children. At that time, though thievish in pro- pensity, they were not unamiable. Shortly afterwards they were reported by Russian trad- ers, who had much to do with them, as "'good people,'' who behaved " in a very friendly man- ner.',' (Billing's Voyage, p. 197.) I do not know that they have lost this character since. Here, too, is the accustomed multiplicity of tribes, each with its idiom, and sometimes dif- fering in religious superstition, especially on the grave question of descent from the dog or the crow. There is also a prevailing usage for the men of one tribe to choose their wives from another tribe, when the tribal character of the motherattaches to the offspring, v/hicliisanother illustration of the law of slavery par^Ms sequilur ventrem. The late departure from this usage is quoted by the old men as a sufficient reason for the mortality which has afflicted the Kenaians, although a better reason may be found in the ravages of the small-pox, unhappily introduced bj the Russians. In 1838 ten thousand per- sons on the coast are reported to have fallen victims to this disease. (4.) Last of the four races are the Kolo- scliians, numbering about four thousand, who occupy the coa.st and islands from the mouth of the Copper river to the southern boundary of Russian America, making about sixteen set- tlements. They belong to an Indian group extending as far south as the Straits of Fuca, and estimated to contain twenty-live thousand souls. La P6rouse, after considerable experi- ence of the aborigines on the Atlantic coast, asserts that those whom he saw here are not Esquimaux. (Voyage, Tom. 2, p. 205.) The name seems to be of Russian origin, and is equivalent to Indian, llere again is another variety of languages and as many sopai^ite na- tions. Near ^MountSt. Eliasarethe Jacoutats, who are the least known; then came thcTlilin- kitfs, who occujjy the islands and coast near Sitka, and are known in Oregon undcnlie name ofStikines; and thenagainwehavcllii! Kaigans, who, beginning on Russian territory, overlap Queen Charlotte's i.sland, beneath the British flag. All these, with their subdivisions, are Koloschians; but every tribe or nation hag four different divisions, derived from four dif- ferent animals, the whale, the eagle, the crow, and the wolf, which are so m-uiy heraldic de- vices, marking distinct groups. There are points already noticed in tlie more northern groups which are repeated hero. As among the Kenaians husband and wife are of different animal devices. A crow cannot marry a crow. There is the same skill in the construction of canoes f but the stretched seal skin gives place here to the trunk of a tree shaped and hollowed so that it will sometimes hold forty persons. There are good qualities among the Aleutians which the Koloschians do not possess, but they have, perhaps, a stronger sense. They are of constant cour- age. As daring navigators they are unsur- passed, sailing six or seven huifdred miles in their open canoes. Some are thrifty, and show a sense of property. Some have developed an aptitude for trade unknown to their northern neighbors or to the Indians of the United States, and will work for wages, whether in tilling the ground or other employment. Their superior nature discards corporal punishment, even for bo5'S, as an ignominy not \o be endured. They believe in a Creator and in the immortality of the soul. But here a mystic fiible is woven into their faith. The spirits of heroes dead in battle are placed in the sky and appear in the Aurora Borealis. Long ago a deluge occurred, when the human family was saved in a floating vessel, which, after the subsidence of the waters, struck on a rock and broke in halves. The Koloschians represent one half of the vessel, and the rest of the world the other half. Such is that pride of race which civilization does not always efface. For generations they have been warriors, prompt to take offense and vindictive, as is the nature of the Indian race — always ready to exact an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth. This character has not. changed. As was the case once in Italy, the dagger is an inseparable companion. Private quarrels are common. The duel is an institution. So is slavery still, having a triple origin in war, pur- chase, or birth. The slave is only a dog, and mlist obey his master in all things, even to taking the life of another, lie is without civil 28 rights ; lie cannot marry or possess anything ; he can eat only the offal of another, andhis body, when released by death, is thrown into the sea. A chief sometimes sacrifices his slaves, and then another chief seeks to outdo him in this inhumanity. All this is indignantly described by Sir Edward Belcher and Sir George Simpson. But a slave once a freed- man has all the rights of a I^oloschian. He.re, too, are the distinctions of wealth. The rich paint their faces daily; the poor renew the paint only when the colors begin to disappear. These are the same people who for more than a century have been a terror on this coast. It was Koloschians who received the two boats' crews of the Russian discoverer in 1741, as they landed in one of its wooded coves, and no survivor returned to tell their fate. They were the actors in another tragedy at the beginning of the century, when the Rus- sian fort at Sitka was stormed and its defenders put to death, some with excruciating torture. Lisiansky, whose visit was shortly afterward, found them "a shrewd, bold, though perfidious people," whose chiefs used "very sublime expressions," and swore oaths, like that of Demosthenes, by their ancestors living and dead, " calling heaven, earth, sun, moon, and stars to witness, particularly when they want to deceive." (Voyage, p. 16.) Since then the fort has been repeatedly threatened by these warriors, who multiply by reenforcements from the interior, so that the governor in 1837 said, "Although seven hundred only are npw in the neighborhood seven thousand may arrive in a few hours." (Belcher's Voyage, vol. 1, p. 94.) A little later their constant character was recognized by Sir George Simpson, when he pronounced them "numerous, treacherous, and fierce," in contrast with Aleutians, whom he describes as "peac&ful even to cowardice." And yet this fighting race is not entirely indo- cile, if we may credit recent report, that its warriors are changing to traders. Climate. III. Prom population I pass to CZma^e, which is more important, as it is a constant force. Climate is the key to this whole region. It is the governing power which rules production and life, for nature aud man each must con- form to its laws. Here at last the observations of science give to our inquiry a solid support. Montesquieu has a famous chapter on the influence of climate over the customs and institutions of a people. Conclusions which in his day were regarded as visionary or far- fetched are now unquestioned truth. Climate is a universal master. But nowhere, perhaps, does it appear more eccentric than in the south- ern portion of Russian America. Without a knowledge of climatic laws the weather here would seem like a freak of nature. But a brief explanation shows how all its peculiarities are the. result of natural causes, which operate with a force as unerring as gravitation. Heat and cold, rain and fog, to say nothing of snow and ice, which play such a part in this region, are not abnormal, but according to law. This law has been known only of late years. Even so ingenious an inquirer as Captain Cook notices the mildness of the climate without attempting to account for it. He records that in his opinion "cattle might exist in Ounalaska all the year round without being housed," (Voyages, vol. 2, p. 520;) and this was in latitude 53° 52'', on the same parallel with Lab- rador, and several degrees north of Quebec; but he stops with a simple statement of the suggestive fact. This, however, was inconsist- ent with the received idea at the time. A geographer, who wrote just before Cook sailed, has a chapter to show that the climate of Que- bec continues across the continent, and by a natural consequence that America is colder than Asia. I refer to the Mdmoires Geograph- iques of Engel, (page 196.) He would have been astonished laad he seen the revelations of an isothermal map, showing that precisely the reverse is true; that the climate of Quebec does not continue across the continent; that the Pacific coast of our continent is warmer than the corresponding Atlantic coast, and that America is warmer ihan Asia, so far at least as can be determined by the two opposite coasts. Such is the unquestionable truth, of which there are plentiful signs. The Flora on the Ameri- can side, even in Behring straits, is more vig- orous than that on the Asiatic side ; the Ameri- can mountains have less snow than their Asiatic neighbors. Among many illustrations of the temperature I know none more direct than that furnished by the late Hon. "William Sturgis, of Boston, who was familiar with the northwest coast at the beginning of the century, in a lec- ture, on the Oregon question in 1845. After remarking that the climate there is "altogether milder and the winter less severe than in cor- responding latitudes on this side of the conti- nent," he proceeds to testify that, "as_ a proof of its mildness, he had passed seven win- ters between the latitudes of 51° and 57°, fre- quently lying so near the shore as to have a small cable fast to the trees, and only once was his ship surrounded by ice sufficiently firm to bear the weight of a man." But this intelli- gent navigator assigns no reason. To the com- mon observer it seemed as if the temperature grew milder traveling with the sun until it dipped in the ocean. Among the authorities open before me I quote two, which show that this difference of temperature between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts was imagined, if not actually recognized, during the last century. Portlock, the English- man, who was on this coast in 1787, after say- ing that during stormy and unsettled weather the air had been mild and temperate, remarks that he is "inclined to think that the climate here is not so severe as has been generally supposed." (Voyage, p. 188.) La Perouse, the Frenchman, who was here the same year, 29 and had been before in Hudson bay, on the other side of the continent, says still more explicitly that "the climate of this coast ap- peared to' him infinitely milder than that of Hudson bay in the same latitude, and that the [lines which ho Imd measured here were much arger. ■' ( Voyage, vol. 2, p. 187.) Langsdorf, when at Sitka in ISOfi, records that Mr. John D. Wolf, a citizen of the United States, who bad passed the winter at the settlement, "is much surprised at finding the cold less severe than at Boston, Rhode Island, and other Prov- inces of the United States which lie.more lo the South." (Voyages, vol. 2, p. 101.) . All this is now explained by certain known forces in nature. Of these the most important is a thermal current in the Pacific, correspond- ing to the Gulf Stream in the Atlantic. The latter, having its origin in the heated waters of the Gulf of Mexico, flows' as a river through the ocean northward, encircling England, bath- ing Norway, and warming all within its influ- ence. A similar stream in the Pacific, some- times called the Japanese current, having its origin under the equator near the Philippines and the Malaccas, amid no comftion heats, after washing the ancient empire of Japan sweeps northward until, forming two branches, one moves onward to Behring straits and the other bends eastward along the Aleutian isl- ands, and then southward along the coast of Sitka. Oregon, and California. Geographers have descril)ed this "heater," which in the lower latitudes is as high as 81° of Fahrenheit, and even far to the north it is as high as 50°. A chart now before me in Findlay's Pacific Ocean Directory portrays its course as it warms so many islands and such an extent of coast. An oflicer of the United States Navy, Lieutenant Bent, in a paper before the Geo- graphical Society of New York, while exhibit- ing the influence of this current in mitigating the climate of the northwest coast, mentions that vessels on the Asiatic side, becoming un- wieldy with accumulations of ice on the hull and rigging, run over to the higher latitude on the American side and "thaw out." But the tepid waters which melt the ice on a vessel must change the atmosphere wherever they flow. I hope you will not regard the illustration as too familiar if I remind you that in the economy of a household pipes of hot water are sometimes employed in tempering the atmos- phere by heat carried from below to rooms above. In the economy of nature these ther- mal currents are only pipes of hot water, mod- ifying the climate of continents by carrying heat from the warm cisterns of the South into the most distant places of the north. So also there are sometimes pipes of hot air, having a similar purpose; and these, too, are found in this region. Every ocean wind, from every quarter, as it traverses the stream of heat, takes up the warmth and carries it to the coast, so that the oceanic current is reenforced by an aerial current of constant influence. But these forces are aided essentially by the configuration of the northwest coast, with a lofty and impenetrable barrioadt of mountains, by which its islands and harbors are protected from the cold of the north. Occupying the Aleutian islands, traversing the peninsula of Alaska, and running along the margin of the ocean to the latitude of 04° 40'', this mountain ridge is a climatic division, or, according to a German geographer, a "climatic shed," such as perhaps exists nowhere else in the world. Here are Alps, some of them volcanic, with Mount St. Elias higher than Mont Blanc, standing on guard against the Arctic Circle. So it seems-even without the aid of science. Here is a dike between the icy waters of Beh- ring sea and the milder Southern ocean. Here is a p.artition between the treeles.s northern coast and the wooded coast of the Kenaians and Koloschians. Here is a fence which sep- arates the animal kingdom of this region, leav- ing on one side the walrus and ice-fox from the Frozen ocean and on the other side the humming bird from the tropics. I simply repeat the statements of geography. And now you will not fail to observe how by this con- figuration the thermal currents of ocean and air are left to exercise all their climatic power. There is one other climatic incident here, which is now easily explained. Early navi- gators record the prevailing moisture. All are enveloped in fog. Behring names an island Foggy. Another gives the same designation to a cape at the southern extremity of Rus- sian America. Cook records fog. La Perouse speaks of continued rain and fog in the month of August. And now visitors, whether for science or business, make the same report. The forests testify also. According to Physical Geography it could not be otherwise. The warm air from the ocean encountering the snow-capped mountains would naturally pro- duce this result. Rain is nothing but atmos- phere condensed and falling in drops to the earth. Fog is atmosphere still held in solution, but so far condensed as to become visible. This condensation occurs when the air is chilled by contact with a colder atmosphere. Now, the.se very conditions occur on the northwest coast. The ocean air, as it comes in contact with the elevated range, .is chilled until its moisture is set free. Add to these influences, especially as re- gards Sitka, the presence of mountain masses and of dense forests, all tending to make this coast warmer in winter and colder in summer than it would otherwise be. Practical observation has verified these con- clusions of science. Any isothermal map is enough for our purpose ; but there are others which show the relative conditions generally of diff'erent portions of the globe. I ask attention to those of Keith Johnston, in his admirable atlas. But I am glad to present a climatic table of the Pacific coast in compari- son with the Atlantic coast, which has been recently compiled, at my request, from the 30 archives of the Smithsonian Institution with ' permission of its learned secretary, by a col- laborator of the Institution, who visited Rus- sian AuJerica under the auspices of the Tele- graph Company. In studying this table we shall be able to comprehend the relative posi- tion of this region in the physical geography of the world: St. Michaels, Russian America Lat. 6:P 28' 45' North. Fort Youkon, Russian America Lat. (near) G7'^. Ikogmut. Russian America Lat. 61° 47'. Sitka, Russian America ,. Lat. 57° 03'. Paget sound, Washington Territory, Lat. 47° 07'. Astoria, Oregon Lat. 40° 11'. San Francisco, California Lat. 37° 48', Nain, Labrador Lat. 57° 10'. Montreal, Canada East Lat. 45° 30'. / Portlrfnd. Maine Lat. 43° 39'. Fort Hf\railton, New York Lat. 40° 37'. Washington, District of Columbia... Mean Temperature in Dc Fahrenheit. grees Precipitation in Rain or Snow. Depth in Inches. a 02 U a a 3 02 a s -.^^ < -t-3 .2 c. a a 3 a 3 3 < C Q 28.75 52.25 27.00 7.00 27.48 - - - - 14.22 • 59.67 17.37 23.80 16.92 - - - - - 19.62 49.32 36.05 0.95 24.57 - - - - - 39.65 53.37 43.80 32.30 42.12 18.32 15.75 32.10 23.77 89.94 48.88 63.44 51.30 39.38 50.75 7.52 3.68 15.13 20.65 46.98 51.16 61.36 53.55 42.43 52.13 16.43 4.85 21.77 44.15 87.20 55.39 58.98 58.29 50.25 55.73 6.65 0.09 2.69 13.49 22 .52 23.67 48.57 33.65 0.40 26.40 - - - - - 41.20 68.53 44.93 16.40 42.77 7.66 11.20 7.42 .72 27.00 40.12 63.75 45.75 21.52 42.78 - - - - 47.84 71.35 55.79 32.32 51.82 11.69 11.64 9.88 10.31 43.22 54.19 73.07 53.91 33.57 53.69 10.48 10.53 10.16 10.05 41.24 It will be seen from this table that the win- ters of Sitka are relatively warm, not differing much from those of Washington, and several degrees warmer than those of New York ; but the summers are colder. The mean tempera- ture of winter is 32° 30^, while that of sum- mer is 53° 37'. The Washington winter is 38° 57'; the Washington summer is 73° 07'. These points exhibit the peculiarities of this coast — warm winters and cool summers. • The winter of Sitka is milder than that of many European capitals. Itis much milder than that of St. Petersburg, Moscow, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Berne, or Berlin. It is milder even than that of Manheira, Stuttgard, Vienna, Sebastopol in the Crimea, or Turin. It is not much colder than that of Padua. According to observations at Sitka in 1831 it froze for only tn-o days in December and seven days in January. Jn February the longest-frost lasted five days ; in March it did not freeze during the day at all, and rarely in the night. During the ne.xt vi'inter the thermometer did not fall below 21° Fah;enheit; in January, ISoJ, it reached 11°. On the other band a tempera- ture of 50° has been noted in January. The roadstead is open throughout the year, and only a few land-locked bays are frozen. The prevailing dampness at Sitka makes a residence there far from agreeable, although it does not appear to be injurious to health. England is also damp, but Englishmen boast that theirs is the best climate of the world. At Sitka the annual fall of rain is eighty-nine inches. The mean annual fall in all England is forty inches, although in mountainous districts of Cumberland and Westmoreland the fall amounts to ninety and even one hundred and forty inches. In Washington it is forty-one inches. The forests at Sitka are so wet that they will not burn, although frequent attempts have been made to set them on fire. The houses, which are of wood, suffer from the constant moisture. In 1S28, there were twenty days when it rained or snowed continuously ; one hundred and twenty when it rained or snowed part of the day, and only sixty-six days of clear weather. Some years only forty bright days have been counted. Hinds, the natural- ist, records only thirty-seven •' really clear and 31 fine days." A scientific observer who was there last year counted sixty. A visitor for fourteen days found only two when nautical observations could bo made; but these were as fine as he had ever known in any country. The whole coast from Sitka to the peninsula of Alaska seems to have the same continuous climate, whether as regards temperature or moisture. The island of Kodiak and the re- cess of Cook's inlet are outside of this climatic curve, so as to be comparatively dry. Lanp:s- dorf reports the winters "frequently so mild in the lower parts of Kodiak that the snow does not lie upon the ground for any length of lime, nor is anything like severe cold felt." The Aleutian islands, further west, are some- what colder than Silka, although the difference is not great. The summer temperature is sel- dom above G6° ; the winter temperature is more seldom as low as 2° below zero. The snow falls about the beginning of October, and is seen sometimes as late as the end of April ; but it does not remain long on the surftice. The mean temperature of Ounalaska is about 40°. Chamisso found the temperature of spring water at the beginning of the year to be 38° 50'. There are some years when it rains on this island the whole winter. The fogs prevail from April till the middle of July, when they seem for the time to be driven further north. The islands northward toward Behring straits are proportionately colder, but you will not forget that the American eoast is milder than the opposite coast of Asia. From Mr. Bannister I have an authentic statement with regard to the temperature north of the Aleutians, as observed by himself in the autumn of 18Go and the months follow- ing. Even here the winter does not seem so terrible as is sometimes imagined. During most of the time work could be done with comfort in the open air. It was only when it stormed that the men were kept within doors. In transporting supplies from St. Michaels to Nulato, a distance of two hundred and fifty miles, they found no hardship, even when obliged to bivouac in the open air. On Norton sound and the Kwichpak river winter may be said to commence at the end of September, although the weather is not severe till the end of October. The first snow falls about the 20th or 2oth September. All the small ponds and lakes were frozen early in October. The Kwichpak was frozen solid about the 20ih or 2oth of this month. On the 1st November the harbor at St. Michaels was still open, but on the morning of the 4th it was frozen solid enough for sledges to cross on the ice. In December there were two thaws, one of them accompanied by rain for a day. The snow was about two feet deep at the end of the month. January was uniformly cold, and it was said that at one place sixty-five miles northeast of St. Michaels the thermometer descended to 58° below zero. February was uausually mild all over the country. Jn the middle of the month there was an extensive thaw, with showers of rain. Abouthalf of the snow disappeared, leav- ing much of the ground bare. March was pleas- ant, without very cold weather. Its mean tem- perature was 20° ; its minimum was 3° below zero. Spring commences on the Kwichpak the 1st May, or a few days later, when the birds return and vegetation begins to appear. The ice did not entirely disappear from the river till after the 20th May. The sea ice continued in the bay of St. Michaels as late as 1st June. The summer temperature is much higher in the in- terior of the country than on the coast. Parties traveling on the Kwichpak in June complained sometimes from the heat. The river Youkon, which, flowing into the Kwichpak, helps to swell that stream, is navi- gable* ibr at least four, if not five, months in the year. The thermometer at Fort Youkoii is sometimes at CJ° below zero of Fahrenheit, and for three months of a recent winter it stoo