't^f^::'K ^ m^-M^f^m:^.^^:^^^ LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 917.3 wMfv Illinois Historical Survey ^«^ (mm . ^> OfJHE ^^^^mr Of Hums IF VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA AND THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS IN ILLINOIS, WITH A C^titttfr lif0itrftt« at I3tiiiantipf)isi; SOI.EI.Y TO ASCERTAIN THE ACTUAL PROSPECTS OF THE EMIGRATING AGRICULTURIST, MECHANIC, AND COMMERCIAL SPECULATOR. BY ADLARD WELBY, ESQ South Rauceby, Lincolnshire. " Nothing extenuate — nor aught set down in malice." LONDON : PRINTED FOR J. DRURY, 36, LOMBARD STREET ; BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY ; AND G. AND W. B. WHITAKER J DRURY, STAMFORD, AND DRURY AND SON, LINCOLN. 1821. •'Jl'i' I Printed bj' J. Dinry, 36, Lombard-street, London. TO THE RESPECTABLE PART OF HIS COUNTRYMEN RESIDING IX THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, AS BEING THE BEST JUDGES OF THEIR TRUTH, THE FOLLOWING OBSERVATIONS ARE DEDICATED, BY THE AUTHOR. V PREFACE. Ever since the period of our war with North America, which ended in the independence of the United States, the attention of Europe has been intensely drawn to that portion of the globe ; and many Philanthropists have entertained san- guine hopes that the declaration of Independence was the commencement of a new era of radical improvement to mankind — that the old Govern- ments of the world, full of abuses, and unable to stand before the light of the new Republic, must soon fall before it ; and that from America would triumphantly arise the Genius of true liberty, to glad and improve the condition* of the nations of the earth. So ably were the Avhole negotia- tions conducted on the adverse side, both before a2 Vlll PREFACE. and after the war, by a few shrewd and deter- mined minds ; and so effectually was the war concluded by a Washington, that the people of the old continent fancied the new one must be covered by Statesmen and Warriors, and hailed the approaching amelioration of mankind from the bright examples these were to send forth. 'Tis true the subsequent conduct of the Re- publicans, both to their leaders and towards ourselves, did not tend to keep up the admiration which had been raised; yet, other causes — the late events in Europe, having brought govern- ments there into great difficulties, and multitudes of the people, from the intoxication of a short- lived prosperity, eventually to drain the cups of privation and poverty, many of these naturally turned their attention to other countries ; and leaving their own, sought on foreign shores those comforts they had lost at home. American liberty again became the theme of a class of politicians among us ; travellers of inquiry again went out to make observations ; published their accounts, mostly of flattering import, and in con- PREFACE. IX sequence, ship-loads of emigrants from all the countries of Europe were constantly arriving in the ports of the new Republic. One of the latest among the crowd of travellers who thus have set the fashion of emigration (Mr. Morris Birkbeck) has published his account, and has met with the greatest success in influ- encing the minds of his countrymen ; — his ** Let- ters from the Illinois," and previous "Journal/' are written in a plain concise style, and yet dictated at the same time by an unperceived romantic sanguine temperament which always gives so beautiful a colouring to nature, and pro- duces a work most fascinating to the mind. These favourable accounts, aided by a period of real privation and discontent in Europe, caused emigration to increase tenfold ; and though va- rious reports of unfavourable nature soon circu- lated, and many who had emigrated actually re- turned to their native land in disgust, yet still the trading vessels were filled with passengers of all ages and descriptions, full of hope, looking forward to the West as to a land of liberty and X PREFACE. delight — a land flowing with milk and honey — a second land of Canaan. To inquire into the truth of so inviting a pros- pect as that held up by Mr. Birkbeck and some others, and in part to relieve the mind from evils of a domestic nature, the Author was induced in the year 1819 to embark for North America: he took in his hand the flattering accounts in print in order to compare them with his own actual observations ; with the intent either to add his confirmation to the favourable side, or otherwise to exert his utmost to undeceive the many of his countrymen misled by specious reports ^Vith these views the journey was undertaken, and the annexed pages are the result ; in perusing which the reader is requested to observe, that he will not find, strictly speaking, an emigrant's guide through the country, (although there are hints which it is hoped may be found useful,) but chiefly facts and reflections for consideration pre- vious to going thither under the inducements held out by Mr. Birkbeck and others : — These hints, the Author is conscious, have not been conveyed PREFACE. X^ in the most pleasing form, but he trusts, that if the matter be found important the manner will not be looked upon with tlie severity of a critic's eye. To the Americans the Author wishes to address a few words, in order to assure them that, in the following observations, he has fully intended to guide his pen by the spirit of his motto : nor does he think them at all to blame in not coming up to the perfect mod el of a Republican which may be mentally pourtrayed ; but rather ourselves are wrong in forgetting that they are not only men, but men placed in a new country, with all its dif- ficulties, natural and moral, to overcome. If I picture to myself a giant and find a man of bi t ordinary proportions, is he to blame for this ? Certainly not. The North Americans possess a fer- tile beautiful country and a fine climate : no one can wish for the improvement and the true enjoy- ment of these advantages more than the Author ; he the more laments the apparent presence among them of a huge portion of blind conceit in their own superiority, and also the absence of the very essential christian principle of good-will and be- XU PREFACE. nevolence ; under the influence of which the truly - great hold out the hand of good fellowship to the rest of mankind, regard them as brothers, and wish for ''peace on earth, good-will toward men *' VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA THE VOYAGE.* May 5th. OfF Margate on board the Venus, bound for New York. This ship, which was to have sailed on 29th April, did not drop down the river until the 1st instant; and then, owing to an accident which befel the Steam Tug, did not reach Gravesend until Sunday the 2d. We had mean- while repaired thither, and remained smarting under the extortionate charges of a Gravesend tavern. At length, on the Monday evening, the signal was displayed for sailing, and trunks, &c. having been previously sent on board, we took a * The number of passages to America already published might, in the opinion of some, he a reason for suppressing this ; it is hoped however, that it will not be found altogether useless or uninteresting. B 2 THE VOYAGE. long leave of English ground, and proceeded with other passengers to the ship ; expecting, like un- fledged Voyagers, to find everything in trim to receive us. When agreeing with the Captain for the passage, I had inquired if there were many other passen- gers, and was then told there were "■ a few ;'" pre- vious to going on board the **few" had increased to *' as many as convenient; "notwithstanding this hint, so inexperienced were we, that we were not in the slightest manner prepared for the scene pre- sented to our appalled senses on rising the ships side ! Trunks, portmanteaus, packages of all kinds and descriptions, piled in all directions and in every way — a crowd of dirty squalid steerage passengers, which appeared to our magnifying eyes at least five times the real number, (about 80) — altogether formed a mass through which we could not, without much difficulty, push our way to the cabin ; and that accomplished, still more horrors presented themselves to view : instead of the carpet and good order which reigned there when I had examined the vessel while in dock, the dirty floor was covered now with nothing but trunks, bedding, and other baggage; giving an effect the most forlorn and petrifying to us all: so that we sat down upon broken chair, box, trunk, or anything we could, and glared upon each other TIIK VOYAGE. 3 desponding as the fallen angels at their first drop ! Our fate, however, not merited like their's, — no ; but we regarded our Captain as the arch-fiend and tormentor, and we gave him looks of reproach which pretty plainly said, " you have entrapped us into your abominable pit this time, but if we ever get out you will not do so again:" — How- ever, I will not suppose he enjoyed our horror, but rather partook a little of the general feeling ; for he sat, his eyes glaring as wildly as any of the party until at length, as nothing was offered to relieve the spirits, I proposed a biscuit and some porter, which were brought, and nearly in silence consumed ; after which we each turned in for the night, and sought repose. While engaged this morning writing the above in the cabin, the ship floating easily along under a pleasant little breeze, we suddenly felt a shock, followed by a rubbing along the bottom ; the Cap- tain started up, and was upon deck in a moment ; the passengers ran in all directions, and the appalling cry " we are aground" sounded on all sides ! Happily, though such a mixed multitude, even the females betrayed but little fear, and most of the men lent every aid in their power ; the J3 2 4 THE VOYAGE. weather was favorable, and though the ship beat much, the bottom being sand and the tide rising, great hopes were entertained that she woukl get off. Had it happened in the night and the wind had come on to blow hard, we should in all pro- bability have been lost ; being day, we were de- scried from the shore, distant about ten miles, and boats of fishermen soon arrived to render assis- tance; but now a long previous altercation ensued between them and the Captain, before a bargain was struck : for a service which they acknowledg- ed would not occupy more than half an hour, they first asked one hundred, and then sixty guineas. — Such is man when the consideration is the pro- perty of his fellow ! Our lives they did not contem- plate to be in danger, otherwise to sa\ e them these same men would have risked their own without thought of reward : so let us be in charity with human nature yet. At length, after an anxious interval to the passengers, it was agreed that fifty guineas should be the price for getting the ship afloat ; the word was given, and in twenty mi- nutes of alacrity the bower anchor was carried out; the men exerted themselves at the capstern; the ship's head swung round; and after three or four violent bumps of the stern upon the sand she heeled off and swam again. Those who have ex- perienced such accidents may know how people THE VOYAGE. 5 feel at such a moment; mutual congratulations went round accompanied with internal thank- fulness to that Providence, whose care is over all.* 6th. Off Deal. A lovely morning, well cal- culated to remove from the mind the impressions of the preceding day ; a clear view of the town ; and the French coast also is very visible from the deck. In order to attain the important objects of health and security among so promiscuous an as- semblage, the cabin passengers met at the instance of the Captain, and a set of resolutions was drawn up for the general observaiK:e ; and a copy being handed to those of the steerage, was acceded to by them and this morning put in force : — by these rules, one captain of the day from the cabin, and another from the steerage were on duty by rota- tion, — candles were put out at a fixed hour, — the parts of the deck for the use of the cabin and steerage passengers were prescribed; and sundry rules for cleanliness, which were afterwards but ill obeyed : no forfeitures were necessary, as the captains of trading vessels have by law the power * The Ship had grounded upon the Margate Sands; always dangerous, owing to their constantly shifting with the tide: just before our own misfortune, we had seen an homeward-bound East Judiaraan aground and lightening her cargo into small craft. 6 THE VOYAGE. of punishment; as far at least as puttmg in irons for misconduct, and indeed this was inflicted in the course of the voyage, upon a riotous tailor. Sunday, 9th. Light airs with mist hitherto; wind this morning rather more favorable. Prayers read upon deck by one of the passengers. We are now clear of the Channel, and drifting upon the vast wilderness of waters, a plank our dependence until we may reach a new continent. To sailors of course, a circumstance so common brings little reflection, but those to whom the situ- ation is new, must confess a sensation most awful and uneasy: certain it is we are equally in the hands of a beneficent Providence, whether we tread the seemingly firm-set earth, or commit our- selves as now upon this immense ocean ; but it is in vain for philosophy to disguise — she cannot subdue feeling. 10th. We are now first experiencing a calm attended by a heavy swell of the sea ; — the sail- ors call this " Paddy's Hurricane," and Paddy- was right, for the rolling of the Ship, racking of masts, flapping of sails, &c. render it anything but a calm on board. Of our cabin party it is not necessary to record the views ; suflice it, that it consists of three ladies and six gentlemen, besides six children; some for pleasure and health, others for business bound. THE VOYAGE 7 The passengers in the steerage are far too nume- rous either for their own comfort or ours ; many of them seem very respectable people, farmers, farm- servants, hop-planters, masons, carpenters, and tailors, with their wives and children. I can- not perceive the tenable policy of throwing obsta- cles in the way of emigration of such people ; as England is overstocked with artisans, and other countries are in want of them, it is surely a mutual benefit; and to prevent individuals seeking the best market for their craft is the highest injustice. 12th. Being fine and calm in the mid-day, the Hold was opened and various packages got up for examination and re-stowage ; while this was doing, and loose straw laying about on deck, there was a cry ** the Caboose is on fire ! " This only occasion- ed a momentary panic, as luckily no harm arose from it; the chimney was foul, and some fat taking fire had communicated to the soot, and from thence nearly to the main-sheet. This day we took up a cask which upon tapping proved full of excellent brandy ; it was covered with barnacles, and had probably been floating- four or five months. 15th. A Hawk of a small kind, resembling the Sparrow Hawk of England, was this morning caught in the rigging ; the nearest land being sup- posed above three hundred miles renders this aii 8 THE VOYAGE. extraordinary circumstance : we also saw yester- day a large brown bird pursuing a Gull, and un- derstood its name to be Rump-poke. An appropri- ate appellation, as it pursues other birds for their droppings, which it catches as they fall and feeds upon. 18th. We have experienced so many head winds and calms that the spirits of all, not except- ing the Captain, are cast down, — two thousand five hundred miles yet to run. Yesterday a lady a cabin passenger, was safely delivered of a boy her first child. 22d. Favorable breezes. A quarrel between the cook and a sailor, in which the former knock- ed out three of the latter's teeth with a billet of wood ; and for which he underwent a severe cohbino;* 24th. Two Whales of the Grampus kind rose near the vessel. At 7 a. tvi. a large fish was seen to pass the ship tormented by a shoal of small ones; the Captain ordered the boat down, went out, struck it, and it was got on board ; it proved to be a Sun-fish that weighed one hundred weight and a half : it was quickly cut to pieces, dressed, * Cohbitig is a punishment inflicted by tying the culprit to the windlass, when each man in turn gives him two or three blows with the flat side of the carpenter's saw. THE VOYAGE. 9 and eaten by the ship's company and some of the passengers ; the flesh very white and firm. SHIP COOKERY. Anything but clean, — anything but simple, — anything but what one is used to. SITUATION OF A PASSENGER ON BOARD SHIP. Some risk, — little comfort, — a total inversion of all accustomed habits, — a feeling of insecurity, — irritability,— a longing to be ashore; in short, a total be-blue-devUment at times, with a few hours of pleasanter colour just to keep hope alive. The ignorance and simplicity of some of the passengers are greater than might be supposed; one said the other day he supposed we had five hundred miles yet to go, and another asked me if America was mountainous. 26th. A tremendous wave broke over us, giving the ship such a shock as laid her down on her side. Great was the confusion ; trunks thrown upon trunks, tables, chairs, all forced from their 10 THE VOYAGE mooring, in spite of bolts and ropes ; we were glad to find however that, excepting the fracture of glasses and crockery, no material accident had happened to any one. About this time an account of each steer- age passenger's stock of provisions was taken, and though but three weeks out, several were found nearly exhausted ; so improvident had they been. The following list of sea stores is recommended as sufficient for a steerage passenger. 421b. Beef or Pork. j 561b. Cabin bread (biscuit). * 141b. Flour. 71b, Cheese. 41b. Butter. lib. Coffee (ground). Ub. Tea. lOlb. Sugar. Hb. Pepper. lib. Salt. 71b. Split Peas. Bottle of Mustard, about Is. 6d. 100 Eggs. 2 Bushels of Potatoes. A few red Herrings. 2 Quarts of Vinegar. THE VOYAGE. 11 4 Dozens of Porter. 1 Gallon of Spirits. Some Carrots, Turnips, and Cabbages. 21b. Soap. Some pieces of Tobacco-pipe Clay, which will be found to rub well with sea water in cleansing the skin. A Tin-pot with cover, in shape like a coffee boiler, with a hook at the side to hang upon the bars of the Caboose grate. Crockery, Spoons, &c. A passenger provided as above will not expe- rience want in any common passage, and indeed there are some articles with which he may dis- pense ; as, for example, the Porter; and others he may lessen, as the Potatoes perhaps. With re- spect to medicine, it may be as well to provide some Epsom salts and magnesia, and a few lemons will be found highly grateful ; otherwise the ship always carries a chest containing the common remedies. 31st. The wind blew what the sailors call a strong breeze, which is in fact a gale, from the west ; the ship laboured much, and such was the impression upon the minds of many of the steer- age passengers, that at night they took leave of each other, thinking it not lik^jly the vessel should live through the night. 12 THE VOYAGE. June, 1st. With the prospect of a protracted passage, an inspection was also judged ne- cessary of the ship's cabin stores; and such waste and extravagance was proved against the Steward, that it was resolved to take into our own hands the ordering of each day's provi- sions : a meeting was consequently held, an account of stock taken ; and ordered, that one of the party by rotation should superintend each day's consumption of food; and also of water, which had likewise been used very ex- travagantly. Let those going a voyage not only ascertain their sort of Captain but their sort of Steward, upon whom I can assure them a very material share of their comfort will depend. The general subject of conversation now is, cal- culating the probable duration of the passage ; yet it is essential to comfort during a voyage to abstract the mind as much as possible from such reflections, and to engage it as much as in us lies in some useful studies and occupations — 'tis one of the worst to watch the winds and the waves ; 'tis one of the most useless, for we cannot command them. We are, it is supposed, approaching the great bank of Newfoundland: as much doubt exists as to the accuracy of the dead reckoning of longi- tude, (and we have no other,) our anxiety is great THE VOYAGE. 13 to ascertain the passage over the banlo, by which a new departure may be taken. 8th. It is now the general opinion, in which the Captain coincides, that we have passed, with- out knowing when, the great Bank; the weather is warmly tempered by a fine S. W. breeze, and the ship is wafting us delightfully over summer seas : hope again " tells a flattering tale " and conversation runs chiefly on what will be done, and what will be had, on our arrival at the much-desired Port. Last night the full moon exhibited, through a heavy mist, an appearance of several rings of the prismatic colours, — a beautiful effect, which I re- member once before to have witnessed in England, 11th. Spoke the brig Spring, of Blyth, homeward bound; and had the no small sa- tisfaction to find that her calculation of longitude nearly agreed with our own late suppositions. This morning the extraordinary conflict between the fish called the Thresher and a Whale was seen near the vessel ; the Thresher repeatedly raised itself on the Whale's back, so that its tail was near- ly upright, and struck the Whale violently with it on the head ; it is said that the Pilot-fish is at the same time wounding him underneath with his sword-snout : they did not however succeed this time, but relinquished their pursuit at the noise 14 THE VOYAGE. which the people made at the extraordinary spec- tacle. The Thresher appeared to be about six or seven feet long. 16th. A Shark seen in early morning : and a large Sword-fish swam majestically round the ship's bow, probably taking it for a Whale; but finding his mistake he dropt astern, and soon after a shoal of small fish, perhaps endeavouring to a- void him, rose completely out of the water; — his length was about nine feet as we judged, and his form and colours beautiful. Several kinds of birds have lately been seen ; among which we viewed with pleasure the " Hagdown " as the sailors say it is always seen on or near soundings ; it is about the size of, and somewhat resembles, a Duck Many Porpoises too have lately passed us; one of these the men struck, and succeeded in getting it on board, when it was soon cut up and eaten ; we were prevailed upon to taste it, and must acknow- ledge that it could not have been distinguished from a fine beefsteak; the gravy was indeed richer. ISth. The events of the voyage have lately been harassing and pregnant with danger ; three officers have kept reckonings of longitude, and all have proved erroneous ; the ship has headed them considerably, and, when we little thought of our danger, has been near wrecked upon one of the dangerous shoals off Nantucket; the grave of THE VOYAGE. 15 many a good vessel. Our escape was pro- vidential : during breakfast, the Captain, with seeming presentiment, suddenly went upon deck while the lead was throwing; he made the next cast himself, which he had no sooner done than he let it go — gave the word "Bout ship" — ran himself to assist, and notwithstanding the great confusion, it was quickly effected; — the steersman called out " What point ? " — answer, " Out as you came in," and in twenty minutes we had deepened again as many fathoms! Had this happened during the night, or had the sea been rough, we should, in all human probability, never have been heard of again. It was conjectured, that we had been upon the edge of what is called " Fisher's Rip," and the water when the ship was put about had suddenly shoaled to less than three fathoms. We stood a southerly course until midnight, in order to avoid the breakers which lie out forty miles south from Nantucket ; and then tacked again. 19th. More alarms, — yester-evening the Boat- swain suddenly called out "shoal-water!" the line was immediately throwm, but the depth proved twenty-five fathoms : at half past nine p. M. one of those storms which are I suppose frequent in this new world, passed over us, and most awfully grand was its transit. At eight p. M. the ship was just put about under a 16 LONG ISLAND. clear serene star-light, — not five minutes had elapsed when we heard great noise and con- fusion upon deck, and running up saw the sky covered with the tremendous cloud-storm; throwing its black mantle across from E. to W. and dipping its points like wings into the oppo- site sides of the horizon. The sails were flying in all directions, and the men clueing them up as fast as they could, while the ship was turning round at the mercy of the whirlwind ; providen- tially, the extreme violence of the storm passed above us^ and even while we beheld it, the dense vapour seemed to vanish from the sight instan- taneously ; leaving upon our minds the efl'ect of enchantment. Six o'clock p. M. not yet quit of terrors ; ano- ther storm, the extreme force of which we have again been spared, has just past over, but its effects continue ; it rains violently, and lightens incessantly. Sundai), 20th, four a. m. Land at length seen on starboard quarter, which proved to be Long Island : the sun arose and brought with it a day and breezes the most favorable, under which we ranged along the coast of the Island, at about seven miles' distance, having a view of it which imagination made delightful. Various schooners, brigs, and other shipping are in view, working SANDY HOOK. 17 different ways, and our recent alarms are forgot- ten in the beauty and grandeur of the scene. Before night we passed Sandy Hook, were boarded by a pilot, who took us up the Bay about six miles and then cast anchor for the night : once more then surrounded by land, the outline of which was indistinctly seen by the aid of an azure sky thickly studded with stars, we at length retired to rest, and undisturbed by noise slept profoundly. 21st. The ship dropped anchor again opposite the Quarantine ground, where it was necessary to undergo an examination of the births previous to obtaining permission to gain the much desired Port. A party of us took this opportunity to go on shore, and after seven weeks' confinement to enjoy again a walk on land. We procured clams, oysters, milk, new bread, &c. loaded with which we returned well pleased on board. The houses here are chiefly frames covered with boards, having lean-to sheds roofed like the houses with shingles, the best being made of cedar; under these shed>s the inhabitants sit and enjoy the cool breezes, unannoyed by the scorch- ing rays of the sun : cherry and peach are the principal trees around these dwellings, except the weeping-willow and formal Lombardy pop- lar ; these last one would suppose the least likely 18 NEW YORK. to be cultivated in a country where shade is more a necessary comfort than to be called a luxury. This morning in working up to the Quarantine ground, we passed a schooner, or rather the re- mains of one (for it was a mere wreck,) which had suffered in one of those black squalls that had passed over us ; she had only a stump of a mast left, to which her remaining sail was tied. 22d. After some difficulty in obtaining the permit for our departure from the Quarantine hos- ( ' pital, (which the filthy state of several of the steerage births amply justified,) we at length weighed anchor for the last time, with a favourable and light breeze, affording leisure to admire the beautiful surrounding scenery of the Bay, and soon brought-to off the city of New Yoek; — an officer of the customs came on board ; he ap- peared a very respectable man, and behaved very politely to the passengers ; at the same time was strict in his duty and superior to a bribe.* Our fees at the custom-house on clear- ing were altogether half a dollar and twenty * Let me here caution any passenger against ofFeiing money to a custom-house officer on this side the water; — they are well paid, and do not take money, as in other countries, to betray the interests of the government, that th^y may live. NEW YORK. 19 cents : on leaving England we had paid the Captain for doing the same for us three pounds. This was probably good pay for the trouble, and indeed I should recommend every passenger not to be above managing this affair for himself, if he values money. 23d. The heat of the weather in the city is so oppressive to English constitutions, that we have established ourselves across the river, on the Jersey shore, at a very pleasant place called Ho- boken ; — here we pay 7$ per week each, for board and lodging, and have a quick and pleasant com- "S munication with New York by steam ferry-boats every hour during the day to and from it. On entering our present boarding-house to in- quire their terms, &c. we encountered the first striking specimen of the effects of freedom without refinement ; upon asking for the Landlord, a young woman who was sweeping the floor slip- shod, desired us to walk into a room she pointed to ; where, she said, we might wait for further orders ! ! We did as we were ordered, reflect- ing on this contrast to a good English inn where, upon the traveller's arrival, from the Landlord down to " Boots,"* all are immediately * The charge here, at any one of the City taverns, for cleaning a jpair of boots, is a quarter dollar {13id. of our money.) c2 20 NEW YORK. f^ upon the alert ready and willing to attend to your wishes. One reason for this want of attention in the American servants is, that they are paid wholly by their employers, and expect no compensation from their guests ; though, I have since seen enough to convince me that this praiseworthy custom is gradually wearing away, and that in general the servants will not refuse a fee when offered. Called at a working cutler's near the post-office, to purchase a pocket knife ; he asked two dollars for one which in London would be sold for about four shillings ; said he paid rent for his shop alone 400S, and that fuel cost him during the winter seven shillings sterling per week. The Americans at New York have not made a favourable impression upon me : almost every face expresses the game of desperate speculation. I am told that this is owing to the general distress of mercantile affairs consequent to the late war with England ; and also the effects of the French revolution, felt upon both continents, but in a much higher degree in America, as that country was less able to bear up against it ; — the people here like those of England were beyond measure extravagant under the deceitful prosperity, and they now doubly feel the dreadful re-action. Be- sides, like ancient Rome, here is the asylum of NEW YORK. 21 the desperate and discontented of all nations :— Will the period arrive when, like the former, this modern Rome shall rule mistress of the globe ? It is, if I may venture to judge, at all events very distant ; they must first gain the necessary quali- ties for the attainment of such an elevation ; at present, of these they are nearly destitute. But to return to my journal. Business here, with the exception of a few re- spectable houses, is conducted on an apparently slovenly plan ; clerks at their banks look like our tavern waiters in deshabille, and the bankers themselves not in appearance so respectable as our clerks. The town is handsomely built, and several things constantly remind one that here the people rule, and their convenience and comfort are studi- ed : the footways for example are in general twice as broad as ours, in some instances taking up at least as much of the street as that set apart for the carriages ; and the hackney coaches are not only neat but eltgant in our sense of the word, and both drivers and horses equally superior. In a late publication,* it is observed that the goods in the stores are set out in a slovenly manner; * Mr. Fearon's. <'''6m ^ 22 NEW YORK. my own observation is that their shops or stores are apparently as good, and the stock as well shewn as in many good houses in London : their coffee-houses and dinner-rooms in the best lodg- ing-houses are even superbly fitted up, very much in the French style : the Tontine, the City, aaid the Bank-cofFee-houses are three of the first; and a person may now dine at any one of them, I be- lieve, for three dollars and a half per week, and fare sumptuously upon turtle, &c. every day ; — wine is but little drank, or any other liquor in- deed, either at or immediately after dinner by Americans ; the reason for this, as given to me by an American, seems good — '* We consider dinner as a sufficient stimulus " says he " without adding wine or spirits to it." The business of the courts of justice during the summer is done in the evenings and nights; the great heat of the weather in the day time absolutely preventing any number of people from collecting- together without danger of fevers, particularly such persons as compose the witnesses, auditors, and attendants in a law coiu't. Mr. Fearon states, that forgery of bank notes is unknown here, for, that the execution of them is so excellent (I write the sense of his words from memory) it renders it too difficult to attempt. ^ — I can affirm that there was scarcely a store I THE FALLS OF PASSAIC. 23 went into at New York, but they could shew me several ; and so well executed, it was impossible for me to see any difference between the valid and the forged note. A DRIVE TO THE FALLS OF THE PASSAIC RIVER, JERSEY STATE. Leaving Hoboken on the Delaware, we pro- ceed along a good road with some romantic scenery of rock, wood, and water, through the town of Hackensac to the village ofPaterson; where we found a good tavern and an attentive Landlord, a very remarkable character in the United States : after dining at the table d'hote, which was very well provided, we set out to walk to the falls, a mile distant, under a burning sun, which made it appear at least two. The beau- tiful clear stream of the gentle Passaic here sud- denly rushes down tw^o perpendicular fissures in the granite rock ; making a grand fall at each, of about one hundred feet, into a capacious basin beneath ; from thence recovering, it murmurs along a stony bed a mile or two, when resuming 24 THE FALLS OF PASSAIC, a placid course it winds through a country thick- ly settled, the inhabitants chiefly Dutch and Ger- mans ; and gliding by the towns of Belville and Newark finally mingles its waters with the Dela- ware. The views near Belville, and on the road to it on the banks of the Passaic, are very fine : but the whole way the black population were so numerous as to be quite oppressive to the eye unaccustomed to it ; every house we passed pre- sented a group of black heads huddled together glaring at us : — But the beautiful Passaic has floated us away from its falls too soon ; we must *^ just return thither to say that Ave ascended by steps made for the purpose to the top of the rocks, from whence the river is precipitated. Here are some wide yawning clefts of great depth, and one of them occasioned a dreadful catastrophe not long before our coming : a new-married couple accom- panied a party to the falls, and after admiring the tremendous broken and precipitous rocks and chasms, were returning in order to descend ; when the bride ran back, as she said, to take a last view, and ^leedlessly going too near to the edge of the yawning cleft fell into it in sight of her hus- band, who in vain rushed to save her — she was seen no more ! On returning to the tavern at Paterson, I ask- ed the little shabby bare-footed boy, our guide, NEW YORK. 25 wliether he worked at a wool manufactory we were passing, "No," said he, rather bluntly ; *'I go to school ; my father's a 'squire : " thinking I did not hear correctly, I repeated the question and received the same answer. " And pray what is a 'squire, what does he do ? " *' Oh, he attends sessions, trials, and hears causes." **And what may your father do at other times ? " " He assists Mr. ******* at the tavern there, in the bar ! " We returned to Hoboken by the town of Bel- ville ; day departed long before we got back, and night came on, its darkness beautifully relieved by -\ the novel effect of the fire-fly, myriads of which were darting in perpetual motion ; and in all direc- tions fdling the air and the surface of the low grounds with brilliant illumination. We met on the road many small light waggons drawn by two horses harnessed to a pole, which are here by the country people used generally : in these the farmer and his family travel at a brisk pace and very commodiously ; — at a distance I at first fancied a handsome Phaeton approaching, as they drove towards us; indeed, away from the city €very one seems comfortable and independent ; we see no misery, no disgusting army of paupers, fiot even a beggar to be seen :* we have, however, * I have since secu beggars. ^ 26 JiEW YORK. already discovered that this country is not entitled to a character for cheap living ; for many articles, particularly those of luxury, you pay at least as much as in England, the difference consisting in this, (a very material one to the seller,) that here, the w^hole price of the commodity goes into the pocket; there, a heavy tax is paid in some shape or other out of every article sold : for example, the hire of a gig and horse for the day is here thirteen shillings and sixpence sterling ; the owner puts the w^hole of this into his pocket, for there is no duty to government ; whereas in England we all know too well that there is an enormous one, besides an assessed tax for both carriage and horse. Wine here, though of course to be bought much cheaper by the private consumer, is charged at least a dollar and a half per bottle at a public boarding-house, though the duty on importation is trifling ; in England the price is the same, notwith- standing the high duties. As another instance, washing is done here from three shillings and six- pence to four shillings and sixpence sterling per dozen, of every thing indiscriminately; though soap is not half the price it is in England, where the same quantity may be washed for two shillings. From the above examples, and many more I could mention, it would appear that the man who should emigrate to this country to s-pmd an in- NEW YORK. 27 come, might not gain by the change ; it is equally- evident that the individual who goes to make money may be benefited. 4th. Sunday here presents a most pleasing contemplation ; the people before united in trade and political government, are now seen shedding out quietly and in utmost harmony, repairing to the places of worship of their several persua- sions : the English protestant establishment seems to be well attended ; the service with a few alter- ations, and the (perhaps) well-judged omission of our frequent repetitions, was very impressively \ read to an attentive congregation. The places for worship are generally strongly and, though plain- ly, handsomely constructed ; yet not perhaps, strictly according with the best rules of archi- tecture. We cannot but observe a very striking flatness or insipidity of character pervading the popula- tion, which is not perhaps to be attributed to bad times, but to various other causes : I am apt to believe that a large portion bear expatriation with a sort of melancholy feeling — America is not yet their home, — they talk little of it, but much of Europe. The United States is a theatre on which are met all nations of Europe, each at present attach- ed to the customs they have left there, and agree- 28 NEW YORK. ing only in the support of religious and politica] liberty : time alone can wear down their heteroge- neous habits into a national character, which many other causes, besides those now enumerated, may at present unite to oppose : the effect is an evident want of energy, of heart and soul in every thing animating to other nations. I am just returned from witnessing the celebration of the anniver- sary of their Libertj^ — such a festival might well be expected to call forth every spark of enthu- siasm ; but, even then, not an eye either of specta- tors or actors glistened with joy or animation, the latter seemed walking to a funeral ; the others contemplating the melancholy ceremony ! No- thing could dispel the illusion but the gay clothes of the female spectators, to which their counte- nances in general bore a strong contrast. Notwithstanding these unfavourable impressions however, one could not but at intervals feel grati- fied ;— it was the assembly of a people to com- memorate the epoch of their liberty, and we wished to discover an elevation of character de- serving of the blessing, and to hail them as brothers. Jail/ 6th. Took leave of New York, of which city, perhaps I may have said more than neces^ sary, so much having been published before. By steam boat and land carriage we were conveyed BORDEXTOWN. 29 to Bordentown, a beautiful elevated situation, cominanding most extensive views, where Joseph Buonaparte at present resides. He lives quietly and hospitably, and, by accommodating himself to the people, exists amongst them undisturbed : — on his arrival he received a mark of attention as uncommon as it was unexpected ; a mob at Phila- delphia collected to see and welcome him ; a com- pliment he mistook, for not aware of their inten- tion, and supposing it might be to seize and de- liver him up, he was with difficulty at length prevailed upon to shew himself and receive their \ friendly greetings. He is fond of shooting and finds plenty of sport : in the widely spread low grounds covered with brush wood, the Wood- cock and Snipe abound ; and the Partridge or Quail is plentiful in the high country. At a little distance from Bordentown, on the edge of a pre- cipitous cliff, and surrounded by wood, forming a pleasing retreat, stands his house.* 7th. Much pleased with the scenery during the the passage down the Delaware ; on its beautiful Pensilvania side many of the houses appeared to be placed in delightful situations : as we floated * It was burned down, it is supposed by incendaries, the following winter, and many valuable pictures and much furniture and pap^MS lost. 30 PHILADELPHIA. along the Sturgeon was seen frequently darting upwards at the insects on the surface ; he is a fish but little valued here, either because his flavour is not so good as it is with us, or perhaps a royal fish suits not republican palates. The spot where Penn first landed in search of a site for his in- tended city was pointed out as we passed ; and soon after came in view Philadelphia, present- ing by no means so favourable a coupd'oeil as New York had done. PHILADELPHIA. Of this city I shall say little at present, but hast- en the western journey. Having both read and been told of streets with clear water running along the channels, and of trees planted on each side, affording a pleasing shade during the keat of sum- mer, I confess a great disappointment at finding but very few trees, and no water but green stink- ing puddles ! Indeed, for the credit of New York, I must say that their Board of Health is more ac- tive, or the people themselves are more cleanly ; for, there no stinks assaulted our noses equal to those we met with here : walking in these streets under the influence of a hot burning sun I have PHILADELPHIA. 31 met with the putrifying carcass of a dead dog; from the stench of which I have ran off, while the natives were passing it without notice ! We need not then be at a loss to account for their fevers. Away from the wharfs the streets are in general good, well paved, and laid with fine broad cause- ways of brick : the handsome flights of marble steps to the doors would look still better if well polished ; the marble is white wdth blue veins, of a good kind, and comes by water about sixty miles, at a cheap rate. During the hot season, mineral waters, (chiefly S soda,) sometimes mixed with syrups, are drank in great abundance ; — the first thing every American who can afl^ord five cents (about threepence) takes, on rising in the morning, is a glass of soda water : many houses are open for the sale of it, and some of them are fitted up with Parisian elegance. Being so attached to water potations it is not surprising that these people should stand in more than usual dread of canine m.adness; they are dog- mad without being bit : such is the rage against the canine species that carts are sent round the town both here and at New York every two or three days, attended by fellows armed with bludgeons and spears, with which they kill every dog they meet, and receive I am informed a dollar for each. 1 had a fine Bull-dog put an 32 PHILADELPHIA, end to in this manner, for which fifty dollars had been offered since my arrival ; the cold blooded wretches first enticed him, as I heard, towards them, and when he, not knowing fear, came up to be caressed, they despatched him with spears and bludgeons. For this I obtained no redress. Accompanied Mr. ******* to the handsome public library presented to Philadelphia by Dr. Franklin ; and of which his ungrateful countrymen make use, while they are as silent as his statue over the entrance if the worthy donor is mention- ed, or if they do speak of him, it is generally slightly ; — the fact is, he was too good and too shrewd for them to understand. I inquired re- specting his philanthropic bequest of money laid out at compound interest in aid of young trades- men, and heard it was properly attended to ; though my informer added that several who had been assisted from the fund had not subsequently been fortunate in trade : that is probably accord- ing to the old adage "lightly come lightly go," they had spent it instead of attending to business : the original sum was four thousand dollars, and it has now increased to sixteen thousand. 14th. Visited the Penitentiary : this insti- tution has been so fully described by others that it is not necessary to give more than an ad- ditional testimony to the truth of its admirable PHILADELPHIA. 33 plan; unfortunately, the prison is at this time so full, (five hundred are in confinement,) that it is impossible to lock up, separately at night, those whose crimes are trifling- from culprits of greater magnitude ; but a new prison is building which will enable them, when finished, to correct this evil : the utmost cleanliness prevails, with order and industry; indeed, the whole had the appear- ance of a well-regulated manufactory, in which a regular debtor and creditor account is kept with each individual, who receives, at the termi- nation of his confinement, the balance of his earnings, with which he may be enabled to main- tain himself while he seeks honest employment : an excellent regulation. We afterwards viewed the Hospital for Lunatics, where the same, or more attention to cleanliness and every thing conducive to the health and recovery of the patients pervade every part ; no appearance of gloom in the building, but all calculated to inspire the mind with ease and comfort. There is a good garden which, besides providing fruits and vegetables to the house, affords a pleasant walk to the convales- cent; and in front of the building, encircled by a beautiful collection of trees, lemon, orange, pome- granate, &c., stands the statue of William Penn, holding in his hand the Charter of Liberties. This is not a cheap country for the stranger : D 34 PHILADELPHIA. either boarding-houses or taverns he must be in, (private lodgings being unknown;) and in such establishments the charges are high : but the hihabitaiit must, it would seem, live at a very reasonable rate, as the following prices will shew, and the lowest are not stated : — Meat, good at six cents* a lb., excellent Tea for one dollar a lb., Sugar (loaf) for eleven cents a lb.. Soap at ten or eleven cents a lb., and other groceries cheap in proportion. Of Wines, Port we buy for two dol- lars the gallon, Claret one and a half the gallon, Sherry two and a half. Spirits,— good Brandy for two dollars, Rum and Hollands the same. But we will take leave of Philadelphia for the present — a future opportunity may occur for fur- ther observations; and to that chance we will leave it for the more important view of the West- ern country. 21st. With a strong bat light carriage, called here a Dearborn waggon, for myself and party, and a light covered baggage waggon driven by my servant, I left the City about noon of such a day of heat as we had never until lately experienced : in consequence of which* my dog, the fine animal above alluded to, ran oif in a high fever, and I * The cent is about llie value of one half-penny; one hundred is four shillings and sixpence sterling. PENSILVASriA. 35 never saw him again ; but he recovered, and came back to the house I had left in search of me, and was taken care of for a few days, when the dog butchers destroyed him. Not to mention the breaking of a three gallon Demijon bottle of good liquor in rattling over the pavement, another cross adventure happened, which made the com- mencement of so long a journey ominous ; — having sent the baggage waggon forward the first stage, and there happening to be two roads and two inns with the same sign at about the same distance, my man unluckily took the wrong way — we slept the first night therefore ignorant of what had happened to him ; however he crossed over, and to our mu- tual satisfaction joined us the following day. On requesting the ostler to call me early next morn- ing, the drunken old beast told me I might " call myself and be damned." Oh, the blessings of independence ! — But I will say this for the Ame- ricans, that if during my stay one other oath was uttered it is the most I heard. 24th. At Lancaster, Pensilvania. We left Philadelphia on the 21st, and have travelled through a country well cultivated and still im- proving as we advanced, until, near this town, it breaks into hill and dale, woodland and pas- ture, forming the most beautiful scenery, and wanting nothing to the eye but water; ctually D 2 36 PENSILVANIA. it is, we were told, exceedingly well-watered. We admired the state of cultivation, observing good crops of red clover-seed, and the wheat stubbles clearly showing that heavy crops had been carried; — the beautiful Indian corn just shooting into ear, green and luxuriant, greatly relieved the eye; the oats alone (not yet har- vested) looked short in the straw and bad, owing we were told to their quick ripening and want of rain. The clumsy zig-zag rail fence of the first settlers is giving way to strong post and rail, and in a few spots to the live hedge, which looked beautiful. Thus we have passed along the centre of a fine valley of cultivated land, grandly skirted by the primeval forest the whole way; the houses and other buildings in general are excellent, bespeak- ing the inhabitants to be at least rich in comforts ; which are after all true riches. The horses of Pensilvania have been frequently praised : they are indeed excellent; uniting strength of frame with activity, and coming nearest in form to the old English charger as seen in paintings; they are by no means generally castrated as in England. The roads as yet we do not feel inclined to praise, for they are abominably stony and jolting; yet they seem to have been formed at some cost, in some parts, I am told, at least twenty dollars LANCASTER. 37 per rod; but no carriage except of the strongest kind (and their construction here is admirable for the purpose,) could last long against the per- petual concussions they receive. It is much to be regretted that in laying out the roads of this new country, the space allotted for them had not been thrice their present width, which would have left an ample summer road on each side of the principal one, rendering it better both for convenience and ornament; but in this and too many more instances the Americans, instead of adopting better plans, and improving by our errors, have servilely copied those of the old country. To the same lounging idleness remarked by Mr. Birkbeck we too must bear testimony : added to which may be observed a most unconciliating manner of studiously avoiding common civility, arising we suppose from a vulgar idea of shewing their independence. The black population of all shades, from the deepest to nearly white, still appears considerable as we proceed, Lancaster is a very respectable town, with a handsome court-house, &c. SlaymakerV inn or tavern excellent. A large manufactory of rifle barrels is carried on here, much cheaper than they can be produced in Europe; a very good rifle may be had complete for twelve or 38 CHAMBERSBURGH. fourteen dollars, clumsy in appearance, but throw- ing a ball with astonishing exactness. It was market day, and horses, carriages, &c., were among other things put up to auction ; the auc- tioneer, riding or driving up and down the streets, with stentorian lungs proclaiming the qualities of the horse or carriage on sale, and receiving the biddings as he went on : a ranting preacher's exertions are nothing compared with this man's. 29th. At Chambersburgh. From Lancaster, by Columbia passing over the beautiful Susque- hannah by a close bridge of one mile and a quar- ter long, to this town the roads are at present wretched, even dangerous ; and the settlers, German and Dutch boors, as abominable. Hav- ing broke a buckle of one of the traces, we applied to a blacksmith to mend it, which he refused to do. Night with a thunder-storm approaching, we tied up the harness as well as we could, wasting plenty of hearty bad wishes upon the cursed smith which some poor Irishmen working on the road joined us in, though they could not assist us; and proceeded some dis- tance, the storm still lowering, to a tavern kept by one of the above wretches where we were absolutely refused admittance: obliged to drive on we just got to the door of another, when the thunder in tremendeous peals burst over us «v*- CHAMBERSBURGH. 39 accompanied with torrents of rain ; here we bolted in determined to be received, and found ourselves in the midst of parties of ill-looking people drink- ing whiskey, and smoking. It was the bar or tap- room, and as no offer was made of a better or safer place for ourselves and luggage, and a little disapprobation being consequently shewn by some of my party, the brute landlord, notwithstanding the storm, told us we had better drive on to the next town, if we disliked his accommodations. — Not chusing to be drenched in rain for his ill humour we were obliged to remain during plea- sure; until at length I got mine host into better humour, and he gave us a tolerable good supper and beds, though with the usual company of bugs and fleas, and without water for washing, which they positively refused to let us have ; observing, we might wash out of doors. This man boasted of being possessed of thirty-five thousand dol- lars in property, and said, that land now worth one hundred dollars per acre was bought by his father for four dollars. Tired of such abominable inns and the keepers of them, we have now twice boiled the kettle in the woods and breakfasted upon the contents 40 ALLEGANY MOUNTAINS. of our canteen, a plan we have much enjoyed, and recommend to all travellers in this country whose convenience it may suit. The scenery is beautiful, the land pretty well cultivated and finely interspersed with woodland; the harvest, except Indian corn or maize, is nearly got in, and seems to have been abundant. Man alone here stands an object of disgust. How strangely to our circumscribed views does Providence work its purposes! To a rough untutored set of naked savages, another race of little less than savages (clothed savages) has succeeded ; who, in all pro- bability, will in their turn give place to a third of some intellect and refinement ; themselves driven from their paternal hearths by the insolence of an aristocracy, the intolerance of a state reli- gion, or the craving demands of an extravagant government : these, seeking for themselves and their posterity relief from such evils, will bring into this fine portion of the earth, the letters and refined manners, which alone it wants to make it perhaps one of the most desirable countries of the globe. We are now ascending the first range of moun- tains separating the eastern from the western part of the continent. The grand and ancient monarchs of the forest have only been removed where the road is opened for the passage of the ALLEGANY MOUNTAINS. traveller. The Oak, the Chestnut, the Locust and various other trees tower aloft in their prime, while some lie fallen with age, and others, inclining from their aged roots, ready to follow, — emblems these of the lot of humanity ! The heat of the sun, though great, is here tem- pered by a cool air from the mountains. A man, his wife, and children travelling in their light waggon with one horse, have joined us; they are on their way to Virginia, in which State he lives ; he seems to be a good-natured civil being and by no means wanting in humanity in general ; yet custom could make him smile at my expres- sion of abhorrence, when he said there was no law practically for slaves in that State, and that he \i^s frequently seen them Jlogged to death ! A PENSILVANIAN INNKEEPER. When we drove up to the door, a black or two came to the horses, no master or his repre- sentative appeared. We got out and walked into the common entry, and at length I accosted a stranger to know if there was a master of the house, who very civilly said he was in the back part and would perhaps soon come ; I then went and called the Independent, who came forvvard. 42 ALLEGANY MOUNTAINS. I told him we wanted breakfast, he just inquired for how many, and then, without shewing a place to sit down, went to order it. This man I after- wards could perceive knew what he was about, — the above is one of the modes of shewing to an Englishman their boasted liberty and inde- pendence ; their vulgar minds cannot perceive the difference between servility and civility. Having a tent in the baggage waggon and every thing for the purpose, we last night escaped these sort of fellows, and their bugs and fleas, by driving into the wood, where, finding a pleasant spot and good water, we lighted a fire, took tea very comfortably, and slept well upon the camp-bedsteads : this, during the hot weather, is by far the most pleasant plan where it can be adopted ; but there are some objections to it which cannot easily be got over ; it is not always in one's power to pitch the tent in the neighbour- hood of good water; the apprehension of the horses breaking their halters and straying is not pleasant; (otherwise, they are quite as well off as ourselves away from American buildings;) and the greater attendance necessarily required from our own servants, both to ourselves and horses is harassing, — another assistant or two would have rendered the plan feasible with comfort and less expence. By the way, it is strange that ALLEGANY MOUNTAINS. 43 tavern-keeping should increase in these times, so dead as they say to trade, and consequently one would suppose also dead for travelling; but so it is, taverns are every M^here building or adding to : what a joyous prospect for the bugs and fleas ! Expressing myself at a loss the other day to ac- count for the number of public-houses building, a black man within hearing said he guessed they were preparing for better times — they could just now do it cheaper as hands, in consequence of want of money, were more plentiful : his observa- tion appears just. August 3d. The weather is extremely hot, and we have encountered several most tremendous storms of thunder and lightning. The thermometer is now at 88*^ in the shade with a draught of air at one o'clock; in the sun it is at least lOB*^. Many parties from various nations and of different modes of travelling are on the road for the West, and we hear of great numbers having passed during the spring and summer, all making towards the great point of attraction the western country. We have now passed over Cove mountain and Scrub-ridge; the road over both has been lately formed, is judiciously laid, and would be excel- lent were the stones covered with gravel, or rather were they broken small ; as it is, one is shaken to pieces without the possibility of avoiding it. 44 BLOODY RUN. Under this evil we are solaced by the views of grand forest scenery, — the Oak of several kinds, the sweet Chestnut, the black Walnut and Hickory, with here and there tracts of Pine, cover these mountains; affording shelter to herds of deer, foxes, rakoons, and also, as we had ocular proof, to snakes of various kinds. Throughout the moun- tains and their neighbourhood you almost univer- sally meet with most excellent water, affording a delicious beverage during the hot weather; the trunk of a tree hollowed out is set up like a pump, with a spout near the top, from which the water, constantly rising towards its level, runs in a clear and cool stream. 5th. At Bloody Run, called so from a battle fought with the natives; here stands a little town pleasantly situate on the Juniatta river, and containing several useful trades, such as blacksmith, wheelwright, harness-maker, tailor, and draper, &c. We approached it for the last nine miles by a new and excellent road just finishing, which is laid a considerable way along the Juniatta, the banks of which are beautifully edged with woodland. Some alterations and repairs done to the dearborn and the waggon here were charged at the following rate : — CHESTNUT RIDGE. 45 Wheelwright, for two new poles, 1 S cents, one great swing tree, and two > 4 : 50 single ditto y Blacksmith, for ironing the above ? c . cq (except one of the poles.) y Price of a horse-shoe and putting on : 31i Ditto, a remove : 12» AVe here enjoyed ourselves under the comforts of a good inn and attentive landlady. 10th. At Johnsons tavern, foot of Chestnut Ridge. We have now passed the Allegany mountains, and can affirm that at this time of the year there is little except the stony road very for- midable to encounter : the line of it is laid with judgment, and with steady horses and a stout carriage may well be passed over by those who fear not a shaking ; that, indeed, they may rely upon. The settlers on the eastern side of the mountains take great pains to deter the traveller from attempting the pass, and even after having- surmounted the Cove mountain. Scrub-ridge, &c., I was told of the great difficulties of Laurel Hill; the fact is, it proved the easiest of the whole ; nothing annoyed us but the sun, it being about mid-dav when we besran the ascent. Much has been said of the expense of travelling in this country, I give therefore a night's bill at one of the better houses, viz. 46 CHESTNUT RIDGE. § cents. 5 Suppers 1 : 87s Lodging : 371 Hay for 4 horses I : 8 Gallons (1 Bushel) of Oats, 1 : £• s. d. 4 : 25 0:19: U A night's bill at a good English inn for the same "would be double the amount. AMERICAN WAITERS. A tavern-keeper brought in some wine glasses stinking of whiskey, to which a cloth seemed never to have been applied ; out of a pitcher of water he poured some into a glass, just shook it, and then throwing the water into the waiter upon w^hich the wine stood, walked away satisfied with this proof of his cleanliness : and a female the other evening, in order to brush away the flies while we were at supper, flourished over our heads her dirty pocket handkerchief, in the absence of the brush of feathers fixed upon a long stick, which is generally waved over the dishes during the repast. The practice of going barefoot is here very general among working people, particularly the females ; it is by no means an uncommon sight PITTSBURGH. 47 in New York and Philadelphia, during the summer season, even in good houses ; a custom this, pro- bably, at least as cleanly as that of wearing close shoes and stockings. 12th. At Greensburgh, thirty miles east from Pittsburgh. The country we have lately passed is beautifully undulated, land of good quality interspersed with woodland, worth near from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre; water plentiful and good. Our landlord has just returned from a journey to the western country as far as St. Louis, on the borders of the Missourie territory ; his report of the country is not favourable : he says it is very unhealthy, which he ascribes to the woodland, contrary to the general situation of such land, being lower than the open prairie ; consequently retaining much stagnant water, the fruitful cause of diseases. 18th. At Hayes' tavern, three miles west of Pittsburgh, in which "Birmingham of America" I had intended to make some stay ; but the heat, dirt, filth, and charges made me hasten out of it in search of rest and fresh air to this place. The town of Pittsburgh stands beautifully, at the junction of the two rivers, and the land around it is of good quality but ; its trade is upon the wane, not alone owing I apprehend to the times. 48 PITTSBURGH. but to the town of Wheeling's being better situated for ready communication with the western coun- try, and consequently thriving upon its decay. Pittsburgh has, too, suffered greatly from the ex- tensive failures of the country banks. I met every- where grave, eager, hungry looking faces; and could perceive, as well as hear complaints of, a general want of employment. It being near the hour of dinner when we arrived, we joined the company at table, con- sisting chiefly of constant boarders, who, after a quick and silent repast, vanished; leaving at table two pleasant and travelled men, one a man of law from Boston, (Massachusetts,) the other a gentleman resident in Virginia. We talked of slavery, which the latter defended ingeniously, though not convincingly, by quotations from the sacred writings, St. Paul, &c.;— he owned a nu- merous establishment of slaves, and such was his reliance upon their attachment and content, that he had not the slightest apprehension of danger to his family during his absence : he had come to Pittsburgh to attend a trial, and entertained us with an account of the conduct in court of his Counsel, who, he gave us to understand, was a man high in the profession; neither Counsel nor Judge as is well known, put on here any gown but the heat of the day had induced this gen- PITTSBURGH. 49 tleman's Counsel first to put off his coat, and not finding himself yet cool enough he got rid of waistcoat also ; and then, further to cool his constitution and assist thought, he put a cigar into his mouth, and in this trim paraded up and down the court. The old gentleman, who had been in most parts of Europe, then asked what could strangers, just coming from England, think of such conduct in a court of trial ? The glass cir- culated and in such conversation the time passed agreeably, until, at some general observation I made, the Bostonian fired up and we were as near a quarrel as any prudent people need to be ; when the Virginian interposed and succeeded in making peace : however, harmony had been broken and we soon after separated. In the evening, expecting a pleasant drive of three miles, we left Pittsburgh ; and, crossing the river by a re- spectable new-covered-bridge, for which I paid a toll of one dollar each carriage, took a wrong turn on the other side ; and after encountering most dreadful roads, and making a tour of above six or eight miles instead of three, arrived by moon- liffht at the long-looked-for tavern. At this obscure inn exists yet hearty at the age of eighty-eight years, one of fortune's fools. Captain Fowler, an Englishman late of the 38th regiment of foot ; a man who in early life was E 50 PITTSBURGH. advanced, solely by merit and strict attention to the duties of a soldier, through every gradation, until he not only bore a captain's commission, but at the same time received the pay of adjutant and paymaster to three regiments. — Having at- tained to this rank, the favourite of Lord Percy, General Crosby and other officers of his day, and being in the high road to further honour and promotion, he was induced on the insidious mis- representations of a sordid brother, to quit all these favours of fortune and come to America: here, at the instance of this relative embarking in one plausible speculation or another, he wasted his fortune ; and now wears out the remainder of his days unknown at this tavern, kept by a good hearted rough Irishman who has become his son- in-law. It is pleasing to see the attention that he receives from the family, which uniting with age and religion seem effectually to reconcile the old man to his fate. SERVANTS. At this small house are maintained four female and two male servants, yet the house is not half cleaned,' and the garden is little else but weeds ; litter and dirt pervade the premises, while these Independents will play for hours at ball, or loll FREE PENSILVANIA. 51 over a rail to rest themselves. Behold a true picture-general! How^ pleasing to the lover of freedom to contemplate its blessed effects ! Leisure, instead of inducing habits of mental improvement and cleanliness, leaves them, in utter negligence of both, only to pass half their time in mere idleness and dirt: but why do I speak of the lower order while those, who should set these a better example, pass their days at taverns and other boarding-houses in idle games of shuffleboard and ninepins ; or, seated for hours motionless under the shed which is universally attached to the houses, seem to exist solely to inhale the fumes of tobacco. Truly these people understand not liberty, — civilly, it is idleness and licentiousness ; religiously, a leaving them to their wildest fancies. BLACK POPULATION IN FREE PENSILVANIA. A black girl with youthful spirits was playing with a lad in the town street, when the wheel- wright, with whom I was talking while he mended the carriage, said, *< if it were not for fear of the E 2 62 FREE PENSILVANIA law one would be inclined to put an end to that black ; they ought to be taught the ditfer- ence between a black and a white, and to pay more respect than to think of associating with them!" — The man spoke really in earnest, and would have thought little of putting the girl to death. Immediately afterwards I met a white little boy who followed a tall mulatto woman, and with all his little strength was beating her with a stick ; at length the woman could bear it no longer, and told him, if she should be whipped the next moment for it, she would pull his ears if he continued to do so. The same day, in my hearing a mulatto woman was threatened by her master with the application of the "cowhide" for not bringing the Independent his umbrella quick enough ! NIGHT. From the slight chirping of a few grasshoppers or crickets in England, no one can have a concep- tion of the noise of a summer night here ; all the insect tribe seem to open at once and to join in one perpetual chorus, very unpleasant to ears unaccustomed to it. WASHINGTON. 53 AMERICANS AND SCOTS. The Pensilvanians resemble in many points the Scots: they go barefoot, they have both some dirty habits, neither have yet very gene- rally erected temples to Cloacina beyond the immediate neighbourhood of great towns. A me- dical man lately told me that the itch, a disorder which proves uncleanliness where it prevails, was as rife as in Scotland; of drams of whisky and bitters they are equally fond. In cookery the comparison turns in favour of our north- ern neighbours, who understand it far better than they do here, where it is the most abominable messing and spoiling of provision imaginable : nothing but frying in butter till the stomach turns even at the smell ; of vegetables they have but small variety, and of these the sickly tasting beet is a favourite, which they dress in the same disgusting way as the flesh-meat, neither good for palate or stomach. 22d. At Washington, Pensilvania, eight miles west of Canonsburgh : this latter little town stands in a healthy beautiful situation. It has a college in an unfinished state ; there are three professor- ships, viz. Mathematics and Natural Philosophy, Languages, and Humanity Class, the whole sup- 54 FREE PENSILVANIA. ported by voluntary contributions to which the government have made a handsome addition : at this time there are ninety students. The land about Canonsburgh to this place, is generally of very good quality, and just now may be bought at a reasonable rate ; its nominal value, I was informed by one of the students, is from under twenty, to the best about thirty dollars per acre; it abounds in coal, lime, and iron ; the first only two cents per bushel at the pit, and laid down at the door for two more. There are many English settlers hereabout, and the shew of im- proved management was very perceptible. There are some objections however to this part of the country, which perhaps the improvement of roads and canals will in time obviate ; it is a distant point from both the great markets for commo- dities, the Eastern and Western; consequently what they sell is low, and that which they buy is very high. Washington (Pensilvania,) is a very pleasant, fast-increasing, and of course thriving town, through which the great national western road and six others are laid The College here too is in an unfinished state ; it has nov/ only VIRGINIA. 55 forty-five students, owing to the dismissal of a favourite president, and the appointment of one not liked. VIRGINIA. On leaving Washington a few miles, the traveller enters the state of Virginia, which he crosses to Wheeling, a town on the eastern bank of the Ohio. The whole way is in general a fine drive, and in two or three years will be better from the improved roads forming every where as we pass with great judgment and spirit. The National road is a work truly worthy of a great nation, both in its idea and construction ; upon it, the traveller will be enabled to pass with comfort, from the eastern coast, westward the whole way. to New Orleans ; and perhaps by another branch to St. Louis, without being stopt to pay a single toll. This is as it should be ; for roads are one of those im- portant works which are scarcely ever executed well by individuals, and which therefore should be done by their representatives, and paid for by the treasury; one is not then stopt every five or teji miles to pay a toll frequently exorbi- tant; nor would the public be speculated upon 56 VIRGIXIA. by individual proprietors* or small companies, who seldom execute these works upon a scale sufficiently liberal. Almost all the labourers employed here upon the roads are either Irish or English, and it is not certain that these republicans have not a secret pride in beholding the natives of the old world toil- ing for their benefit; however, the earnings of the men are I believe sufficient to render them in time independent, and I must say they look in general well fed, well clothed and comfortable. We passed one party employed in ploughing down part of the uneven road with a strong machine drawn by eight oxen, while two others drew a large wooden scoop —^^.^^^^.^^^^^^^ to shovel up and lead away the ploughed up soil : it appear- ed to save much labour. The Irish here have not lost in our esteem; two or three times we have been beholden to individuals of that nation for good-natured little services: one of them lately aided me successfully to get along part of the new road where we had met with some oppo- sition ; another actually accompanied us about nine miles on a like occasion, not with a view to remuneration, for I could not persuade him to * I have often been called upon to pay a dollar for passing over a bridge. WIIEELIXG. 57 take any thing for his services but some refresh- ment at the tavern. I heartily return them the good wishes they so frequently expressed as we passed them. One of the above men had ac- quired some property ; he told me that seven years ago he bought land at six dollars per acre, and that he had just sold a part of it at fifty, and some even so high as seventy dollars per acre. The proximity of the new road had increased thus the value of his land. The beautiful Sassafras shrub is now plentiful, also several others which I in vain endeavoured to obtain the name of; for the people seem almost totally ignorant of the trees and shrubs in their woods. WHEELING Is very pleasantly situated on the Ohio, and, standing upon high ground, appears to be healthy; it is also a very thriving town, as a number of excellent buildings and others rapidly carrying up sufficiently testify ; among these is a public seminary endowed by a professional man in the law, who, dying without heirs, left amply sufficient to endow it : near to this stands a neat chapel erected by methodists. Two good vine- 58 STATE OF OHIO. yards are planted here, which looked thriving and, we were told, produce excellent wine. Without meaning to speak in favour of slavery, I will yet state the fact that, during the drive across this small arm of the slave state of Vir- ginia, the white people seemed far more respect- able and civilized than in the free state we had just left ; almost all we met accosted us pleasantly, as if to welcome a stranger without that rude stare to which we had become accustomed; the blacks, too, appeared to be well clothed, civilized, and comfortable ; very superior to the free black popu- lation elsewhere seen. We had scarcely crossed the Ohio into the free state of that name, when we found a rogue and rudeness ; freedom must at least take honesty for her companion or she is not worth a rush. . '■ STATE OF OHIO. On entering the state of Ohio by this route we find little to interest ; a wild uncleared hilly coiuitry,* which with little alteration continues * Mr. Fearon says the state of Ohio is one continued level, he must mean that part of it about Cincinnati; the chief part of the state is exceedingly hilly. STATE OF OHIO. 59 till you approach St. Clairsville: the soil then is clay; the town well placed and its buildings good and neat ; land hereabouts, a good grazing soil, is worth about twenty dollars per acre. We bought here, out of a waggon load, half a peck of peaches for six cents, (3d.) the peach and apple orchards are literary breaking down with fruit ; every morning we stop at the first orchard to take in as many apples as we want for the day. My man experienced an accident, in coming down one of these steep hills, which might have proved worse in its consequence than it did; not seeino- him behind as usual I waited sometime for his coming up, and began to feel uneasy about him, when we heard his waggon wheels approach- ing : one of the horses had broke the hame-strap, which, throwing the pole on one side, had pre- cipitated the waggon and driver into some brush- wood on the road side ; — while in this situation, unable to extricate himself, a country waggon luckily came past, and he applied to the fellows with it for aid, which the human brutes refused without^r^^ being paid for their trouble. — From such contemplations let us turn for relief to the variety of foliage so highly pleasing in this part of the wilderness; we now see the Tulip tree for the first time ; the Sassafras grows thickly, and a great variety of other plants and shrubs of which. 60 CHILLICOTHE. for want of botanical knowledge, I know not the names. Several people clothed something like Jews with long beards have passed us at different times on horseback ; these, I was told, are a christian sect of charitable pilgrims styling themselves Dunkards. 30th. The weather has been for some days past cooler owing to the falling of some rain, but is again becoming warm. The sudden and violent changes of temperature are at least as frequent on this side of the mountains as on the eastern shores, whatever may have been asserted to the contrary, and rain is almost always succeeded by cold. On the 24th of A,ugust in the early morn- ing the thermometer of Farhenheit was at 46°, it has since been above 80^, but again this morning has sunk to 56°. 31st. The road is covered with dust arising from the great number of horses, waggons, &c. conveying people from a methodist camp-meet- ing just held in the neighbourhood, at which it was calculated that nearly four thousand attend- ed; the convocation had continued for several days, during which these people had slept upon the ground in the intervals between praying and preaching. September 2d. At Chillicothe, Ohio, Watson's Bainbridge. 61 hotel; the wit's mode of spelling it (Hothell) is more significant, for the beds swarm with bugs, and the thermometer is at 86® in the shade. I called at the land office and was shewn the map of the district ; most of the sections, except those south-east of the town, (a poor mountainous tract,) are entered, and to my surprize, in general paid for ; so this considerable part of the state is in the hands of land speculators, under whose baneful influence a chief part of the country re- mains a wilderness, which otherwise would have been under cultivation, if open to real settlers at the goverment price per acre. The British government have in Canada acted more wisely, in offering the lands only to those who will build, clear, and settle upon them. 5th. At Col. Woods, Log tavern, nine miles east of the town of West Union, Ohio. The road has lately led us through a fine fertile tract of vale, beautifully skirted by the high rocky wood- land, from whence is quarried a good hard granite for building and other purposes. The town in this tract called Bainbridge is a new settlement, but already possesses some neat and good houses ; the value of land of the district may be estimated by the price of town lots, containing sufficient space for a house and garden, which are as high in best situations as two hundred dollars (forty- 62 BAINBRIDGE. five pounds ;) — the out-field lots are from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre. This tract -throughout appears well watered; the only ob- jection I heard of to it, and that perhaps no small one to a settler, is, there being many dis- puted titles. Among the growth in the wood we have lately noticed the Papaw, a bushy elegant shrub with large leaves; its fruit not yet ripe. The Tulip tree becomes more common, also more Elm and Beech, Sycamore and Buttonwood ; all these are found here of immense size, towering high in air with stems perfectly straight. Near to Chillicothe, which is in north latitude about SO'^ 15, we saw the first tobacco cultivation ; it looked well notwithstanding the drought which now begins to be felt every where. Upon admiring a large strong dog the other day, his owner told me he was very necessary on account of the wolves w hich are yet numerous : the dogs here are as mixed a breed as the people, and a thorough-bred is not to be seen. Deer are plentiful, also rackoons and squirrels ; the wild Turkey we saw yesterday, which seemed to resemble exactly our dark tame breed. * 5th. Several parties on horseback have passed us on the road, making inquiries of the way to a methodist preachment, and to judge from the BAINBRIDGE. 63 immense numbers that collect on these occasions fanaticism seems to have taken deep root here. 6th. Started with my host on an expedition through the woods to visit a farm belonging to him. We took our guns uselessly for we saw no game of any kind, but, on arriving at the farm, got some good peaches and drank the pure water of a fine spring ; being warm, he directed me to let the water run upon my wrists for some time before drinking, to prevent the effects of suddenly taking cold water while heated ; these sort of cautions have probably been handed down from the native hunters. We passed a kind of vine w^hich has a poisonous quality, the leaves being rubbed on the skin will raise irritating blisters. The Poplar tree, my host observed, made better shingles for covering roofs, if painted, than the Cedar, which is commonly used unpainted; per- haps any of the poplar tribe may do, and where a light covering is required might be advantageously employed in England. A large party of settlers from the state of Illinois came by, they are returning to that of New York, to the same spot they quitted a year and a half ago. The account they give is that a fine fertile tract of land about forty miles from the river Illinois, and not far from its confluence with the Mississipi, was purchased by them, and they jat % 64 MAYSVILLE. settled upon it last summer; since which period they had lost eight of their party by dysentery, fever and ague, and that the remainder had de- termined to quit the purchase, and return with the loss of all their time and nearly all their mo- ney. These are facts much lessening our sanguine expectations as to the western paradise ; however, I am resolved to proceed and endeavour to ascer- tain the truth on all the points for which I under- took the journey. One of the above party told me, that when ill he had paid a fee of twenty-five dollars for one visit of a Physician, the distance being about twenty miles; if this be true the medical science at least must meet with sufficient encouragement.* The state of Ohio took a rough leave of us down a rocky precipitous hill, at the foot of which we found ourselves safe on the bank of the river ; and driving down to the water's edge into a team-boat lately established, were, about dark landed on the other side, and comfortably received at a good family inn at Maysville kept by Mr. Cham- bers, a sensible clever man, who came to it from Jersey State about seventeen years ago, and * From another party which passed, I learned that the well- known Colonel Boon is slill alive in the Missouiie country ; though the journals lately gave a circumstantial account of his death. •dr: '-t^ I ''1 'jSii, OHIO. 65 who has, by judgment in the purchase of land Sec, made a good fortune for himself and fami- ly : some lots about the town, which he bought for four hundred dollars six years since, are now worth some thousands ; such is the rapid increase in the value of property in this country when a man makes a o-ood hit. On quitting this State, through which we have travelled from Wheeling in a south-west direction to Maysville or Limestone, (Kentucky,) the im- pression it has made is not so favourable as I had been led to expect; though our course comprehended but a small part of it, yet we passed through the most populous districts, if v/e except that around Cincinnati, Instead of a gar- den, I found a wilderness ; land speculators have got a considerable part in their baleful clutches to make their market on the wants of the poor set- ler ; but I am apt to think have been themselves outwitted, owing to the superior attraction of the more distant western country : yet is Ohio a desirable one, as it contains within itself most articles of the first necessity and perhaps more ; coals in abundance, lime, stone for building, iron and other metals, with fine rivers for trans- porting commodities of all kinds. The face of F 66 OHIO. that part which I saw, is exceedingly hilly, in some places approaching to mountains ; but the soil in general well adapted to grazing, and the whole strongly resembling our county of Derby upon a gigantic scale. The north-west part of the State, an immense tract of country, has been lately ceded by the natives to the United States, and I believe has been surveyed, allotted, and is now offering to the public at one and a quarter dollar per acre ready money : of its fertility much is reported, and its communication with Lake Erie, and by it with the other lakes and the eastern markets, will render it perhaps more desirable than the part we have travelled over. The roads at present are altogether in a state of nature, the trees only just chopped off about a foot from the ground, and rocks, and stones, and gullies left to be got over as we can; no won- der then, that you see a blacksmith's shop every two or three miles, and tavern by the side of it to put up and spend your money while the repairs are doing; for which, however trifling, Vulcan cannot form his mouth to any word less than a dollar, and his friend the tavern-keeper charges an " cleveiipeuny hit'' if you have but two cents wortJi of whisky. As to the general want of cleanliness in the OHIO. 67 taverns, of which so much has been said and so justly, though the keepers of them have no doubt a large share of the blame, yet much may be said in their defence ; the fact is, their customers are of so filthy habits that to have a house clean is almost impossible ; and though bugs swarm it is true in the bed-rooms, beyond an English imagi- nation, it is extremely difficult in this w^arm climate to keep free from them, particularly at inns, as they are constantly carried in the cloaths, luggage, &c,, from one house to another until many a bug, it may happen, has been as great a traveller as Mr. Birkbeck himself. Yet do the people deserve reprehension, for while "such things are," and sundry other unseemly appear- ances are constantly, in their bed-rooms and other parts, existing in full force ; wdiile their gardens (ill deserving the same) are over-run with weeds, and cropped in the most slovenly manner ; while a thousand disagreeables are around them, these — what shall I call them ? — slaves to sloth, and worshippers of an idle deity of independence, will sit lounging against the wall wdth arms across smoking cigars; or you shall see the female part, lolling out at their windows gazing at nothingness. F 2 G8 MAYSVILLF.. KENTUCKY. MAYSVILLE, OR LIMESTONE. Here at Mr. Chamber's, we staid two days^ received more like guests than as travellers at an inn ; his conversation was amusing and his anecdotes conveying much information : in his garden which is spacious and well-managed, we ate the first ripe grapes we had met with. The town, which seems to be fast increasing in size and importance, stands high from the level of the river, and is screened by towering hills, afford- ing in the immediate neighbourhood and also up the river situations for building that few places can surpass : the view from above the town looking down the river is beautiful and extensive ; a considerable part of the buildings are of brick ; glass works are established, and other manufactories requiring machinery. All these advantages however will hardly compensate with most people for its being within the terri- tories of a slave state. Of the determined obsti- nacy and turpitude of a black boy we were here wit- nesses ; a silver fruit-knife had been left upon the table, and he had secreted it, the knife vvas soon missed, and search made for it in vain ; at length, suspicion falling upon him, he was sent for and ^^ BLUE LICKS. 69 questioned, but denied all knowledge of the knife with an air of the greatest innocency ; he was offered half a dollar and to be screened from punishment if he would give it up, but continued to deny that he had taken it, wishing, "his flesh might rot if he had" — his pockets were at length examined ; and the knife and an apple dropt toge- ther from one of them, upon which the young rogue declared that the person who searched him had put it there, and a terrible beating which I fear he got, did not in the least make him prevaricate. We took leave of our host and hostess not without some regret, and, as we slowly paced up the long hill which rises immediately from the town, looked back frequently to view the beau- tiful river scenery from the different points it offered : a turn at the top suddenly presented on all sides a cleared, well cultivated, and in- closed country; the road was good, the day beautiful, and we bowled along through plenti- ful crops of Indian corn, rejoicing that we had escaped the wilderness, and thinking we had really entered upon the garden of the United States. After a few miles of good road however these pleasant ideas were shaken out by an abso- lute rock, upon which with but little intermission we rattled for near twenty miles, passing through a place called Blue Licks. At its salt springs 70 BLUE LICKS. the deer and buffaloe used formerly to be found in immense herds ; it is now a watering place, the resort of invalids : yet let not the English render here picture to himself either Bath, Chel- tenham, or Tunbridge Wells, but a few dispersed log huts and two taverns of the same description. Many of the men here wear, instead of a coat, a short cloak, a little resembling that part of the old English dress, which if they knew how to carry with any grace would look well. The drought is now exceedingly great, and we have reports of much stock dying to the south of this state for want of water; we therefore see the country at as unfavourable a time as possible ; yet, under these disadvantages, the grass is really green, a circumstance which proves the strong natural fertility of the soil, also shewn by the spontaneous growth of the white clover among the trees of the uncleared forest land where it has been grazed. Of this grazed forest the farmers assert that it will not, when cleared, broke up and sown, produce so much corn by one third per acre as that which has not been grazed, and many of them consequently shut up their forest land from all cattle and even from pigs. KENTUCKY. 71 AN ODD MISTAKE. A little black boy was playing upon the ground, at the tavern-door with a dog ; I pointed to them and said to the landlord, (a very civi- lized man,) ''Do you make christians of these?" ** Oh no." — " You name them without the cler- gyman?" ''Oh yes; we sometimes give them one name and then alter it for another:" — "And does not your church find fault with you some- times for such neglect ?" "No, they never think of such things." "And when they die you throw them into the ground without further ceremony ?" Answer, — Always let them lie just where it happens — I suppose, you do not do so in your country ; do you ? Self, — Certainly not ; we think very differently upon the subject; that child would there be free, the moment it set foot upon our shores. Landlord, — " Oh, you mean the negre ; I thought you were speaking of the dog all the time. \ es ; we christen them; but we do not let them eat with us, only the Quakers let them eat with them !" This man's kitchen presented a picture which is general with some exceptions throughout the 72 KENTUCKY. slave country, a description of it will therefore serve for all the rest. Behold, a dark log build- ing vvith a floor of mud, upon which a number of little black children are at all times to be seen crawling, while others are perhaps lying without tlie door sunning themselves ; all mostly with- out any covering whatever : these are the progeny of the cook and other slaves, and are destined for sale or to supply the places of others. A quick lively little black girl, of about nine years of age, waited here v/ith such spirit and so cleverly upon the guests that she attracted our notice ; and upon praising her dexterity to her master he told us, that he had more than once refused three hun- dred dollars which had been offered for her. — The kitchen, besides being made the daily black- nursery, is also their general dormitory : at night, they creep round the warm embers and huddled together sleep in the contaminated atmosphere of this Augean stable, in the midst of the dirt and abominations of which the traveller's meat is prepared, and served more decently than might be expected ; after escaping (perhaps) the fingers of the poor little creatures, who, watch- ing their opportunity, rise from under the dress- ers, pilfer the meat and dip their fingers in gravies. The ovens are, very conveniently for this warm KENTUCKY 73 climate, built apart from the house in the open air. Mine host, notwithstanding the above mis- take, was a man of very respectable manners, and his wife, a lady-like woman, presided at the supper which was even elegantly set out to a company most heterogeneous. Opposite to me, a young fellow seated himself, without his coat and in his dirty shirt sleeves of at least seven days, wear, and, not shewing the least of that shyness which such a man would experience in England, played away with his knife and fork perfectly at his ease : indeed, the clumsy gait and bent body of our peasant is hardly ever seen here, every one walks erect and easy ; a plain- ness of dress and coarseness of the texture amounting to vulgarity, blunt discourse, in short, the manners of the herd, are affected by the few, and all mix without any seeming distinction. To have objected to the company of the dirty fellow just mentioned would have probably ended in a ''rough and tumble^' and the loss of an eye, as it is not an uncommon accomplishment to be a good hand at "gouging." This brings to mind a story of a fellow who had been so terribly mauled at a ''rough and tumble" that a man, compassionating his condition, said, "you have come off badly this time I doubt ?" " Have I/' says he; triumphantly shewing from his pocket 74 LEXINGTON. at the same time an eye, which he had extracted during the combat, and preserved for a trophy. LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY. The approach to this town is for several miles along good road, and through a country much improving in natural advantages and cul- tivation. Lexington has been often enough de- scribed ; thirty-five years ago, it is said to have contained but one hundred houses ; it has now several thousands, and many of them very hand- some ; more to say, it has some good and wide streets, with well-paved broad foot- ways of brick, and a market street, only in part finished, upon the model of that at Philadelphia : its Court-house, a miserable brick building, stands well and airy in a large square which may some time or other be neat : in and near the town is a manufactory or two. The College or public seminary is well situated at the eastern entrance of the town ; it is a handsome building but within in a bad state ; at present there are about one hundred pupils. The inn, or tavern to which I was recommended, and where I met with much civility and attention ; had any thing rather than cleanliness or com- • FRANKFORT. 75 fort, but the charges as high as if both had been to the utmost wi.sh ;* myriads of bugs as usual ; we literally found rest in getting up, and much mental relief in quitting the town, though strongly persuaded to stay that we might behold the horsemanship of a Mr. West and his troop from England ! One circumstance however should make me remember Lexington with some satisfaction; with the improvidence very common to travel- lers my resources had not been calculated pro- perly, and I began to find that the purse would be emptied before we should gain the place of the next expected remittance. In this dilemma I sought the residence of the Cashier of the United States branch Bank, and stated the case to him ; upon which he in the most gentlemanly manner cashed my draft : to the same gentle- man on my return I was again beholden for assistance in managing an exchange of notes, and he may rest assured I shall not soon forget his urbanity. FRANKFORT. The approach, as well as the country imme- * There are two good family taverns however, oae the Indian Queen ; of the other I forget the sign. 76 FRANKFORT, diately around this capital of Kentucky, is beautiful ; the size of the town may be consi- dered about that of one of our better market towns : some of the private houses very well built of brick (the general material here) and very handsomely fitted up within. The build- ing in which the senate of thirty-one Members, and the body of Representatives of about ninety, meet, is a fine object on entering the town from the western bridge ; the Court-house is a very neat building and the whole effect renders it a far preferable residence to Lexington, except per- haps with a view to trade ; and of that there seems very little. We found here an excellent tavern and hotel for families lately established by Colonel Taylor, one of the old revolutionary ofFxcers : the building and interior would not disgrace our own capital, and our meals were served with every comfort and polite attention from his lady. Upon inquiry both at Lexington and Frank- fort I find that the price of land is about one- sixth of what it was three years ago ; good land which then sold round Lexington for two hun- dred dollars per acre, may be bought now even for twenty-five, — and considerable tracts lying between the above towns for five and six dollars per acre, LOUISVILLE. 77 On leaving Frankfort about a mile, the west- ern road leads v^inding up a considerable hill, from whence we were gratified with a fine view of the town and the surrounding woodland sce- nery : the day being beautiful, and time allow- ing, I determined to put up at the first house where we could find shelter for the horses, and return to sketch it : accordingly, we made up to a very respectable looking farm-house and asking permis- sion to put the horses into a stable, it was granted ; while this was doing I was in courtesy thank- ing the owner and expressing hopes that we should not put him to any inconvenience, when the inhospitable brute suddenly stopped me with *' you need not be so full of your thanks for I mean to charge you for it !" — To be sure I lost no more time in compliments but, returning to the view, finished the sketch, and after a pleasant walk renewed my journey paying for shelter only above half a dollar ; however I first lectured them until they were perhaps a little ashamed, but they took the money and we drove on, de- scanting upon the virtue of hospitality, to LOUISVILLE. A handsome town, of which the chief part is in one street. Here are two good hotels at one 78 LOUISVILLE. of which (Allen's, a good family house,) we met with every attention on our return; but now, a cleaner looking house farther on inviting us, and being repelled by a crowd of travellers of all descriptions and variety of dress, smoking and lounging at the doors of the other two, we drove past; forgetting "farther on you may fare worse," which we certainly did.* On settling an innkeeper's account I said that if we might judge by the charges, a man must soon become rich in his business ; which he acknowledged would be the case w^ere it not for bad notes and bilking customers, anecdotes of whom he told several : one young man after running a bill of three hundred dollars rode out one morning, as accustomed, to take the air and forgot to return; others have watched the departure of the steam vessels and set off to New Orleans, having reckoned without their host, so that the losses are immense. These hints and others, I did not unfortunately hear until on my return, or I should not probably have been induced to trust to American honour in way of business so much as I did to my cost. At all these houses a regular clerk and bar- * For the information of future travellers, Allen's quiet part of the hotel is down the street turning the corner of his house. INDIANA. 79 keeper is maintained with whom the traveller goes to settle, for a bill is never brought as in England ; no ringing of the bell here and, when the waiter comes bowing in, " Desire my bill immediately" — no ; that would not suit with independence. The bed of the river is here of vast breadth, and during the spring must afford a grand view when the waters are struggling with and rushing over the extensive rocky falls ; a,t present a very small channel is sufficient for its reduced stream ; people are employed on the dry bed in deepen- ing the intended course for the boats, arks, &c. when the waters shall next rise to afford them a passage. Travellers of curiosity can now tra- verse on wheels, with a guide, the greatest part of the rocks over which in a few months a mighty body of waters will roll with tremen- dous force. INDIANA. Three miles beyond Louisville the western road again brings you to the Ohio ; and by a very ill conducted and apparently rather dan- gerous ferry we were wafted over, (after waiting for our turn with many waggons, &c. above three 80 NEW ALBANY. hours,) and entered the State of Indiana at the town of New Albany; where we found a very comfortable reception at the excellent family tavern kept by Dr. Hales, a physician. We had hitherto been frequently received by Repre- sentatives, Colonels, Majors, 'Squires, and Cap- tains; these now sometimes give place to the medical profession. An American may be proud of his liberty, but the pride of a gentleman never stands in the way of a profitable speculation; idleness only is here a disgrace, and if a man of liberal education finds that his profession will not sufficiently remunerate him it is thought right that he should seek profit in trade. I had quitted the State of Kentucky with im- presssions in its favour far stronger than that of Ohio had produced ; — the climate is fine, the land fertile and well cleared, and inclosed; the houses well built, and the landscape as we passed frequently beautiful. But this is a slave State ; and as this degraded situation of a part of our species has excited the horror of philanthropists on our side the globe, I will stop to say a few words on the subject; my observations being understood to be confined solely to the few slave States I have seen, and disclaiming, at the same time, all theoretic approbation of the institution. I have read, as others, with feelings of disgust INDIANA. 81 and injured pride of liiimanity, of estates to be sold with so many slaves upon them ; and of tlie floggings unmerciful which authors have re- lated ; and, drawing conclusions from such state- ments, I expected to see the slave, in misery and wretchedness, bent down with labour and hard-living, but was very agreeably surprised to find the reverse. Slavery is not here what it may be in our Colonies and perhaps, as I believe it is still worse, in the old quarters of the globe. By the spirit of the laws the black is here indi- rectly benefitted : though a slave, he is suffered to associate with his fellows, and one day in the seven (Sunday) is set apart for society with each other ; and though there may be instances of cruel punishment, yet so numerous are the blacks becoming that it will soon be dangerous, if the time is not already arrived, for such instances to be repeated. And here lies the real objection to these slave States ; the slaves begin to know their own strength, and probably would not long bear oppression. To see their well-proportioned figures easy and unconstrained, and lively coun- tenances, a stranger might be led to think that they were in fact the masters of the ill-formed, emaciated, care-worn whites, were it not for the fine clothing of the latter: in short they are well clothed, fed, and taken care of, and G 82 INDIANA. SO numerous that I believe they are felt already in many places rather a burthen on the com- munity than an advantage. As to the work they do, as far as I have had an opportunity to see, I should say it is so little, that an English la- bourer would with ease accomplish more in a day than two of them ; and excepting a few of the old school, it is the general sentiment of the best informed Americans that they should be better ofFwithou^t slaves. But the sins of the fathers have fallen upon their sons, and, as far as human foresight may look into futurity, they never can get rid of the effects ; they must al- ways have an immense black population to support, unless indeed the period shall ever arrive when the latter shall change stations and support them. We now meet at least as many parties going eastward as on the western route, which might be rather discouraging to those not accustomed to American restless search after gain ; in this, ail considerations of comfort, or attachment to home are lost. He makes a pig-inclosure of logs, a stable of the same, open to all the winds and to the poul- try, and if his log house will keep out the v/orst of the weather it is sufficient : and thus, with such buildings, with just as much corn and fother as will keep him, his femily, and his stock, the INDIANA. 83 settler passes his indolent days ; smoking under the shed of his habitation, and waiting for some good offer for what he terms his improvement; when he immediately loads his waggon with his furniture and family, and without the shadow of regret leaves his abode to seek some other equally uncomfortable. This State in respect to cultivation bears not at present any comparison with its neighbour, but in natural beauties far exceeds it. The variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers is great ; the co- lours of the latter gratifying the eye in all the the gay luxuriance of nature ; — the timber trees grow to an enormous size ; I measured an Oak which at four feet from the ground was twenty- four feet in circumferance, but there are larger trees here. We passed (chemin faisant) through several new settlements called by the people Towns, and which indeed may soon deserve the name ; roads, bridges, mills for sawing, and other buildings — every thing in short, goes on with that spirit of enterprise which, in spite of po- verty, is shew^n by the people of America. Paoli stands very pleasantly : Hindostan, on a branch of the White river communicating with the Ohio by the Wabash, also is to be a town of great trade : Washington is perhaps the worst situated for trade, but the land around it is G 2 84 HINDOSTAN. very fertile. There are also many other intended to-be towns, but at present containing about half a dozen log huts, such as Greensville, Brownsville, Fredericksberg, &c. &c. called thus after the first proprietor of the land, who, if he is so fortunate as to make choice of a favourable situation, rapidly makes his fortune by the quick influx of settlers ; but this is not always the case and there are many " Villes" and " Bergs" which will probably long remain as we found them. At Hindostan I met with an adventure which, considering how little respect is paid to any law, I might perhaps as well have avoided. At a miserable log tavern there, kept open (and to all the winds) by a Colonel, the entertainment both for man and horse was the worst we had late- ly met w4th — the hay it was pretended was too far off to fetch; and a few heads of Indian corn was all we could procure for the horses. For ourselves, after a miserable meal, we found a bed laid in an out-house, which also served for lumber-room and larder. All this travellers must learn chearfully to bear, but another evil, which too frequently follows, the high charges, it is not so easy to pay with good humour : in this case I ventured, as I had hitherto done with good effect, to reason against one or two of the items in a quiet delicate way fit for the ears HINDOSTAN. 85 of an independent ; but here it did not succeed, for my Colonel turned upon his heel saying, if I objected to his charges he would take nothing at all, and away he went. I had a great mind to take him at his word on account of his treatment ; but after waiting for his return some time, with my horses at the door, I at length left with the Colonel's lady more than sufficient to defray the proper legal charge according to the rate made out by their magistrates, to which how- ever few of them pay much attention : well, we then drove on, but had not got to the river side before a lad was sent after me with the money, for the Colonel had in fact been hiding to see what I would do, and coming out from his hole to hear what had been left for him, pre- ferred venting his spite even before his money. I now determined to see how this would end, and therefore put the money into my pocket, drove down to the river side, and leaving my name and address at a store there for him, crossed the ford and proceeded. An hour or two after, my gentleman passed me on horseback, pale, " spiteful and wrathful," and we kept a good look out, a little apprehensive of being rifled at from behind the trees ; so we got the arms out ready ; and drove on with circumspection to the town of Washington about eighteen miles from 86 HINDOSTAN. Hindostan. Here he had collected more people than I should have supposed possible in the short time, and had prepared his dramatis personse, one of whom came immediately to arrest me; with this fellow I went to attend another whom they called a 'Squire, a whisky seller. At this respectable tribunal of the wilderness I stated my case with some difficulty from the noise and opposition, and expecting as much justice as I found, the 'Squire said the bill must be paid without referring to the rates ; and as curiosity not resistance was my object, I at length paid it with about a quarter dollar, no great fee for his worship. Upon this, the Colonel was so elated with his victory that to shew his gene- rosity, he said, he would treat his friends with half a dozen of wine and give the amount of his bill away ; being satisfied with '' shewing the EngUshmaji that he was not to be imposed upon;" and it was in fact this rancour against an Englishman, (not the first time I heard, it had been shewn by him in the present way ;) and which indeed is very general, that had actuated him from our arrival at his log palace. From the effects of wine added to the elation of spirits from victory, I fully expected the affair v/ould not end yet, and, determined not to avoid any thing they might intend, I paced INDIANA. S^ before the tavern and mixed with the people ill the general room ; but whether the wine was put off for a glass round of the 'Squire's whis- key, or that it was swallowed quickly I know not, in a very short time they all quietly de- parted, and not a word or look could be con- strued insulting. This we must own would not have been the case while such feelings were afloat in some other countries, and was either very much to their credit or occasioned by a party against their proceedings, several of wiiom told me they had acted wrong and illegally. While the towns are rapidly rising into being and improvement, the inhabitant of the wood, vegetating in his log cabin, seems to remain without increase of comforts, as he is without emulation to spur him on to obtain them. Being now beyond the boundaries of any regu- lar tavern, necessity threw us upon seeking shelter for the night, in several of such habita- tions, open to every breath of the winds with- out, and swarming within with fleas, bugs, and other vermin: these are called "houses of enter- tainment ;" they are known to those who cross this at present wilderness under such appella- tives as ''Preacher Biram's," *' Preacher Blair's," "Widow More's," &c. Atone of these, where, except a wretched shed behind for a kitchen, 88 INDIANA. there was only one room for all the purposes of life, we had put up for the night, and after such a supper as the house afforded, had lain down to endeavour to rest ; not sleep, for that, not to mention the company above alluded to, would have been sufficiently prevented by the knives and forks of my host and his family at supper in the adjoining shed. After having watched for the end of this, with some hope that we might get sleep, and hearing at length the wel- come sounds of putting away, I had just ad- dressed myself to Morpheus, when a general chorus in all keys suddenly burst upon my ears — they had commenced at eleven o'clock at night their evening's devotion, put oft' per- haps by our arrival : when the psalm was end- ed, which was sung a pleirie gorge, the preach- er read a long homily, which took up near an hour more, and which finished the business, and quiet seemed likely to reign, when just as I had composed myself suddenly some one jogged my shoulders ; it was my hostess come to tell me that two gentlemen, one a Dr. ***** and both particular friends of theirs had arrived, and wished to have supper in the room, how- ever that it need not at all disturb us, as they were very nice gentlemen. However I strongly objected to this proposal ; and after some de- INDIANA. 89 intir the gentlemen condescended to take their supper in the place which had just served for the domestic chapel and kitchen, and which I believe afterwards was the general dormitory of the party ; after keeping it up very jovially until one or two o'clock of the morning, by which time the bugs, assisted by the light troops, had stormed and taken all my defences, and for the rest of the time effectually " murdered sleep." The reader will not here mistake so far as to suppose I mean to treat lightly domestic worship, an observance for which we should all be better, and for which I could not but respect my host, hoping he was sincere in it; nor should the traveller be soured by the charges after such entertainmtnt, as he is too apt to be ; but he should consider that he had met with the best reception in the power of the people to give : their only beds are given up for his convenience, while they probably sleep on a bench or on the ground, and if money is the view chiefly in all this, let money be freely given to discharge the obligation. I was angered with much more reason at my host's attempt to inveigle my man-servant from me with offers of twenty dollars per month, his board, &c. : these religious people are but too apt to dis- reo^ard moral conduct as a thing altogether of 90 INDIANA. this world : many similar offers had I believe been made to him, which sufficiently proves the scarcity of active hands, and that such need not fear to want situations. Long before we approach the neighbourhood of Vincennes the woodland opens here and there into what are termed barrens; these are not generally flat but undulated, and covered with stunted oak, low beautiful! shrubs, &c. ; belted in with trees so fancifully disposed that one is apt to imagine the hand of art to have been em- ployed : the land is not considered in general as of even second-rate quality, but it is dry and healthy, and, when cultivated, brings good corn if the summer is at all favourable ; indeed, under the present drought I saw some fair crops at the few spots where squatters had fixed them- selves. These barrens increase in size and num- ber as we proceed westward, until they end in the so much talked of prairie or wild mea- dows ; in the midst of one of which, and upon the Great Wabash river stands the pleasant town of Vincennes, upon a sandy gravel sub-soil with excellent springs of water. Before we arrived at Vincennes, hov/ever, an adventure awaited us. We had baited at a house which we were told was but six miles from the town, and for- getting there is in these latitudes no twilight, had INDIANA. 91 staid too long, and in consequence found our- selves in complete darkness just on entering upon a large prairie; the road, which was no- thing more than wheel-tracks could no longer be discerned, and I was obliged to direct two of our party to precede the carriage and find the way by feeling, not by seeing the track. In this manner we had not gone far when the guides stopped, declaring tlrey heard the growl of some wild beast before them, — bears, wolves, and pan- thers, all of which I had just heard of, imme- diately came to mind, and I pulled up the horses to listen; when a tremendous roar was heard directly, succeeded by another which brought our guides, who were females, back upon the waggons, declaring that the animal approached. Very unwilling for the engagement, I then cocked my pistols, and calling to the man to do the same awaited for some time the attack; but finding the enemy did not come forward, I ventured to drive on, and soon discovered the object of our alarm to be a bull, which had probably been as much discomfited at our approach as we at Jiis roars. We now resumed our stations, and thou oh rain added to the dreariness of our si- tuation, I had the satisfaction to find tliat all acted with spirit. After a doubtful march, which seemed of much longer duration than it really 92 VINCENNES. was, we at length discovered some lights at a distance, and shortly after a horseman passed who gave us the welcome assurance that we were in a right direction ; so completely dark was it however that even when we approached the town we could not find any track by which to enter it. In this dilemma, amidst a pouring rain, we were again aided by a good-natured Irishman, whose house we by chance came up against ; for he mounted along side of my driver and piloted us to a tavern, glad enough to be re- lieved from cold, wet, dirt, and darkness, a good preparation for the enjoyment of a comfortable supper and bed, free from unpleasant bed-fellows. VINCENNES, (INDIANA.) This settlement, founded by some French fami- jies from Canada, though one year older than Philadelphia cannot like it boast of great ex- tent and opulence ; it has not yet by any means lost its cabin appearance, though the beneficial effects of the New Orleans market are beginning to be very apparent ; and good brick dwellings are fast erecting in the best situations, behind which its log huts are hiding their diminished VINCENNES. 93 heads. A very good building of brick intended for a public school, has been erected by the aid of ample funds left by an individual for the purpose ; yet, owing to strange neglect, the institution is suffered to 2:0 to decay and no mas- ter has been provided. A handsome house be- longing to a General Harrison, the chief pro- prietor here, is also in a dilapidated state, the General havinsf left it to reside elsewhere. Fur- ther on, by the water-side, we visited a steam mill upon an extensive scale ; which grinds corn, saws timber into boards, and cards wool and cotton ; a most beneficial establishment for the surrounding country, though I was told, not just now a good concern to the proprietors. These, with two middling taverns, and a few substantial houses lately erected constitute the chief buildings; the rest are a heap of wooden huts occupied by traders in skins, and various other things with the natives. The Wabash, a fine river, floats the produce of this commerce and of the land, down to the Ohio, from whence it is conveyed to New Orleans chiefly in steam boats which return laden with goods for their market at an enormous profit. To elucidate a little the nature of this trade I enter a few memoranda. Indian corn or maize is bought here of the farmer at about a quarter dollar the bushel, soon 94 VINCEXXES. after harvest ; in spring it is sent down the river to New Orleans under a freight of another quarter dollar per bushel ; and is sold there from seventy five cents (three shillings and sixpence) to a dollar. Wheat is bought at a price about sixpence or sevenpence the bushel dearer than maize, and sells proportionably higher. For a return lading. Salt is bought at half a dollar per bushel, and sells at Vincennes from two $ to two and a quarter $ ditto. Loaf sugar sells at half a dollar, (2s. 3d.) per lb. Brcwn sugar sells at 37i cents, (Is. 8d.)perlb. Coffee at 75 cents, (3s. 6d.) per lb. Tea at from 21 $ to 3^ S per lb. and other groceries, man^r of which like the above are bought for considerably less than half their selling price, in proportion : of iron and drugs I could not obtain the price at New Orleans : but of the profit on the iron the reader may judge by the price I paid to a blacksmith for eight new horse-shoes, steel toes, and eight removes ; the bill for which was about ten dol- lars, — above two guineas ! I remonstrated and appealed in vain, the bill was paid ; yet I cannot think that such a price is charged to the inhabitants among themselves ; but there is no justice and little law but one's own arm ; and IXDTAXA. 95 a man must be fain to yield before a nest of- who join in plucking a stranger ; indeed, he may think himself well off if they are contented with a little plucking at his purse, for instances are not unfrequent of individuals among them being "rifled" for having rendered themselves obnoxious ; which they do equally if they are too good (honest) or too bad (deep) for them; or not holding themselves sufficiently upon a level. I did not learn the exact offence for which a deed of this nature was perpetrated with impunity at a recent period not many miles from this place, in the Prairie country, but the fact^ are as follow : — A party proposed to each other coolly to go and shoot neighbour ***** who had behaved ill to them at sundry times ; it was agreed upon ; they went to his field, found the old man at plough and with unerring aim laid him dead! — Mr. Flowers himself related to me this atrocious affair, and I did not hear that any punishment was ever talked of. Such is tlie state of things in this western paradise ! A beautiful garden indeed it is from the hands of nature, and with but a little industry a most desirable country to dwell in with a people who do not shoot each other : bnt for a man of orderly habits and civilized manners, to leave his every comfort, plunge into this wilderness. 96 INDIANA. and sit himself down among a set of half sava- ges far more expert that he can be in every thing essential to such a life! — 'tis a strange anomaly, and I think, "cannot come to good." The young, the enterprismg, the man who seeks a fortune, may find a field for successful exertion • — with great circumspection in undertakings, and great good luck in escaping bad notes and bad debts, large profits may accrue to indus- try ; but let no one, who already may possess the comforts of life, seek fortune, freedom or bliss in this western speculation ; for if he does, the chances are great that he will lose all. Though the profits of trade here may be even more favourable than above stated, yet are there great risks, which ought to be taken into the contemplation of those who may be inclined, by these accounts, to the enterprise. Among the risks, one of the greatest arises from the not uncommon accident of boats sinking, as no care however great, will at all times prevent them from running upon hidden trunks of trees, when they almost to a certainty go down if heavy laden; and in such cases all the perishable part of the cargo is either lost or much damag- ed : a catastrophe not to be guarded against, as m Europe, by insurance; there not being at present any means of effecting it here. A more Indiana. 97 «« safe speculation seems to be that of the builder, and as far as I could learn, equally profitable ; the house in which I was, built of boards, and which was said to cost about two hundred anH twenty-five pounds sterling, gains a rent of two hundred and fifty dollars clear of all deductions. There are I have little doubt, many other channels of profitable employment, and upon the whole it may be said, that this town ofi'ers a station for young men of prudence, spirit, and a little capi- tal, where they may make a fortune; it is also a dry healthy delightful country. As to the morals and religion of the inhabitants^ I cannot say that with respect to either they appear in a very favourable light, if one may judge from any outward observances of the latter, or con- duct respecting the first, in aftairs of business. Sunday is so little marked as a day of rest or religious duty that I believe no attention is paid to it, (except by the French catholics, who have a wooden chapel ;) and a stranger, who should arrive on a Sunday, might well be led to con- clude that it was a colony of Jews rather than of christians, and that their sabbath had been kept the day before ; tradesmen I saw carrying goods ; farmers hauled their corn ; and the water- mill went merrily round. The price of labour is apparently high ; a car- H 98 INDIANA. penter or bricklayer receives two dollars and his board per day ; but as competition increases I will not recommend the mechanic to rely upon getting such wages : and if he should, he must take notice that the high price he must pay for most articles of necessity, will bring his wages down nearer to a level with other places than he might at first suppose ; to be sure, there is here less competition at present. Having examined the town, and both our- selves and horses sufficiently rested, we made the necessary inquiries and preparations to pro ceed to the English Prairie in the Illinois State ; from thence intending to visit the German Settlement called Harm'ony on the Wabash, and returning to winter at Vincennes. Receiv- ing however, meanwhile, a pressing invitation to accompany a gentleman to his country house iibout twenty miles distant, it being represented as little deviating from our intended route, I ac- cepted of it ; the more inclined perhajis, because of his pleasing manners, and his being a native of the northern part of my own country. Having however a little apprehension as to the fitness of the roads we were going to pass over for wheels, I inquired of him whether they would permit a carriage to travel ; and all my doubts were removed bj. his answer that "they were INDIANA. 99 as good as the town street," where we happened to be standing : we shall soon see how accurate his account turned out to be. It was a beautiful day in the latter part of Sep- tember, that we started on this expedition in my Dearborn ; our friend on horseback leading the way. We drove along a good turf road across the fine plain of Vincennes, fully expecting to get on as smoothly and pleasantly as a gig party on a Sun- day excursion along what are called the ''green lanes," around our own metropolis ; — we were not long suffered to enjoy these pleasing anticipations however, for our guide suddenly turned into the wood and the wheels came bump upon our old acquaintance a stump road. — While we are getting on slowly upon it, I will just give a slight description hov/ such tracts are formed ; — ima- gine a woodland in a state of nature : through this, guiding themselves by compass, people get on as they can, chopping a piece of bark from the trees in the line, which they call "blaz- ing," as a direction to those who follow with tools to cut down the trees between those blazed, which they do at about a foot to a foot and a half from the ground, leaving the stumps and brush- wood standing. In a short time this latter gets worn away, but the stumps remain a long while ; and between these, horsemen, waggons, and other n 2 100 IMDIA^^A. carriages proceed, steering between, or bump- ing upon them, which is at times unavoidable, and week after week I have driven to my own asto- nishment how escaping, winding about among these stumps, progressing at most not more than three miles an hour. Were the *' four in hand" thought I, to try their skill on these roads, many a wreck would soon strew the ground. But to return to our adventure ; for our com- panion calls, and presses me to urge forward the horses ; advice needless to give, for alas ! we could not adopt it. The small track became more blind ; our guide appeared to be confused ; and not a little to my dismay and vexation, instead of road as good as Vincennes town-street, we were at length entangled in woodland; brushing through breaking boughs, going in and out through bogs, and lifting the wheels over dead fallen trees as we could. In this situa- tion, as difficult to retreat as advance, I knew not what to do and began to suspect some foul play; but recollecting the respectable charac- ter our companion bore at Vincennes, I dis- missed the thought, and being both myself and servant armed I resolved to try to proceed ; so calling in a peremptory tone to our friend in ad- vance to keep in sight, for I fancied he seemed to be uneas^^ at his situation, and he at times INDIANA. 101 disappeared, I asked him, not if this was his excellent road — I was too vexed for that, but how much farther such difficulties would be found : he answered not far; that we were near the river, and that we would cross it at a nearer ferry than he had at first intended ; adding, he would ride on and get the boat ready, he vanished, after pointing the way we were to follow. I now thought he was gone, and had left us in the lurch ; however we got on by de- grees, and at length had the pleasure to see the river side, and our friend waiting for us with the crazy ferry boat, into which with some difficulty we got the carriage. Our difficulties were now to cease he said, and a good road the rest of the way was to reward our exertions ; for better assurance of these good tidings I endeavoured to obtain some information from the boatmen as we crossed the Wabash; but they proved to be Canadian French, and we did not sufficiently understand their ^'patois' to gain any satisfactory account from them. We landed safely ; and after rising the river bank, actually did find a tolerable good woodland road for some miles, until it approached without much hinderance a small settlement, dignified with the name of Palmyra ; a place which to all ap- pearance need not hope for the prosperity §q 102 INDIANA much as it may fear the lot, of its prototype. Here we found a log tavern, however, and . we halted to consider what to do ; for the day was closing and I remembered there would be no twilight. In this dilemma I again suffered myself to be guided by our companion, who represent- ed, that at this log inn we should not find any accommodations, either for ourselves or horses beyond shelter, that his house was now but three short miles further upon a good road; and that he had provided every thing for our com- fort as well as that of our cattle : yielding to these pressing arguments, the rather too as he seemed a little chagrined at my hesitation, I once more trotted on, which the horses could well do, for about half a mile beyond the settlement. But how shall I describe what followed ! Our guide turned again into the wood calling out that it was his private road: and private indeed we found it, for we soon lost all track and light together. There was now no retreating, so summoning up more resolution from despair, I urged and encouraged my good little horses, and they dragged the carriage at the constant risk of our necks, through brushwood, over fallen trees, down and up precipitous banks and deep gul- lies, which I could scarcely discern, and which if I could have seen should not have attempted; INDIAXA. 103 until I became so enraged at the man's deception that had he given the least provocation I believe 1 should have shot him; however he luckily avoided this by keeping a little in advance, and mildly calling out now and then to direct the way saying we were very near ; and indeed, long after day had departed, we halted at a gate. Here he advised us to get out and walk, as the way, up to the house for wheels was circuitous ; out therefore we got, when I perceived approach- ing, carrying a light, a human figure in form, dress, and manner as wild and complete a ruffian 0,s ever Shakspeare pourtrayed. To this being, whose appearance, and the friend- ly shake of the hand given him by my conduc- tor, did not tend to relieve my mind from sus- picions of I knew not what, I was fain to give up my horses ; he returned a surly answer in French to Mr. ***** who had said something I did not understand, and receiving the rei.ns from me jumped into the carriage and drove away; but not alone, for I directed my man to go with him ; a service he probably did not much relish, but which in my then sta.te of mind 1 thought necessary. I now explored my way towards a light, and soon came up to a portico which had the appearance of being built in good style : here too I had the satisfaction tc 104 INDIANA. meet the carriage, which I had no sooner come up to, than a voice which seemed of stentorian power hailed me from the portico with a tor- rent of words, amongst which what struck me most was, **You have got here but you will never get away again!" My host who had ap- proached to press me to enter his house, seemecj, to put this off with a smile 7iot quite easy ; and I declined quitting my horses being determined to see them into the promised stable ; but upon expressing this intention the ill omened voice again thundered, *' Oh, there is no place for your horses but this, — they will be safe enough, — they cannot get out.'" — ** But they are warm," said I; "have had a long pull ever since noon with- out bait, and will catch cold out of a stable.*' ''Can't help it" was the answer; but just after lie added, *^ to be sure there is a log place, but it has no roof!" My host now again returned to invite me in ; and under his assurance that the horses should have every care taken of them, and knowing that my own man would do his best for them, I reluctantly gave up the point ; mounted a flight of steps, crossed the Piazza, and entered a room not calculated to make amaze-= ment cease. It was spacious, lofty, well-propor-. tioned, and finished in every part in the very best style of workmanship: a good wood fir^ INDIANA 105 blazed upon a beautiful polished grate, the ap- pertenances to which were equally handsome ; a marble chimney piece, the tables, chairs, the supper table, and lights supported in handsome branches, all which is commonly seen in good houses, was here, surrounded by primaeval wil- derness; an accomplishment so wonderful that it seemed not to be within any powers short of those of necromancy, and when my mind glanced back upon the way we had been led, I might fairly suspect the person who had done it to have some credit at the court of his Satanic Majesty. Such thoughts however were well dispelled by a neat supper, served in a manner correspond- ing with the appearance of the place ; and by the aid of some excellent wine our spirits began to flow as the impressions of the day's adven- tures were, for a while, lost in social con- verse. Our host I found to be a man of the world ; knowing perfectly well how, and prac- tising that which he knew, to be agreeable; full of anecdote, which he gave well ; and after keeping it up to a late hour we retired to rest in a handsome adjoining chamber. Rising with the early sun, refreshed from the harass of the preceding day, I walked out anxious to explore the lodgings of my four-footed com- panions, not much expecting to find that '* every 106 INDIANA, care" had been taken of them ; indeed after a con- siderable search I at length discovered the place of their confinement, in an inclosure of logs without the slightest roof; of course they looked piteously, for the nights had become rather keen and frosty. Perhaps it may be thought by some readers that too much has been said of the dumb servants ; but let those who think so either take a journey, during which their lives shall con- stantly depend upon the steadiness of their horses or at least let these objectors reflect, that during such daily acquaintance a sort of mute friendly understanding takes place between the driver and his cattle;— they will then no longer wonder at his anxiety for their welfare. And here let us bring this strange adventure to a close ; we passed two days very pleasantly, during which we met with the most attentive hospitality, and I am unwilling to search for other m_otive ; though, perhaps, it might prin- cipally be to induce me to engage in aid of a scheme to build mills upon a favourable situa- tion on the Wabash river: this I mention, in order to take the opportunity of cautioning emigrants against engaging in the schemes, generally delusive, of the old settler or the Ame- rican. However plausible they may appear, let him be the more cautious ; it may happen that INDIANA 107 they answer — some do so ; but nine individuals in ten of those who are drawn in are ruined notwithstanding ; for they get wheedled out of their property by trick and chicanery, which the American laws too much favour. Let those therefore who come into this country, and bring capital with a view to settle, take good care not to be in the least haste to lay it out: let them keep their money in their pockets and view a speculation on all sides ; nay, turn it inside out before they venture a dollar in it : and above all, let the emigrant distrust his own judgment, and ever keep in mind that the American upon his own soil is in business and speculation an over- match for Europeans. One material reason for which is, that he is not at all nice or scrupulous about the means, so he attains his end ; which is money, — money, — for ever, money. It is there- fore much safer for an emis^rant to embark in business by himself than to trust his property in partnership ; in the first case, he may at least know how he is going on ; in the last, it is probable he never will until too late. An instance of the result of delusive expect- ations, may be seen in the man who has been an inmate a long time past with my present host, and from whom the words of ill-omen pro- ceeded on the night of our arrival. He was 108 INDIANA. born in a manufacturing district in England and brought up a builder and cabinet-maker: dis- contented, as truly too many have had reason to be, with the remunerations of his, business he embarked, with his wife and a decent capital in money, for America. Set ashore upon its coast, he found not his sanguine expectations realized; therefore wandered into the western country, working at little gain for one person and another, until his capital was considerably lessened : when at length he met with this gentle- man, w^ho engaged him to build the house in which we have been so well entertained ; — with him, he has placed the remainder of his money, to be repaid to him with interest whenever a large bill due for his exertions shall be settled : — Perhaps his troubles and disappointments in this life may be over before this happens, for a rapid decline is carrying him off, and we will hope tliat then heaven will send a protector to the widow and the fatherless. EXGLISTI SF.TTLF.MENT. 109 A VISIT TO THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN THE ILLINOIS. On the third morning we made early prepa- rations for departure; and accepting gladly the offer of the builder for a guide, we took leave of Marvel Hall and, not without considerable apprehensions of difficulties to come in getting away, started for the town of Albion, as the English settlement is called. According to ex- pectation the way was not free from wood, bog, gully, and stump; but with the aid of day these obstacles were overcome without accident ; and after having traversed several miles of wood- land and prairie, covered with long grass and brushwood, and having lost our way once or twice, we at length crossed a narrow forest track, and rising an eminence entered upon the so-much talked-of Boulton House Prairie; just as the sun in full front of us was setting majestically, tinging with his golden rays what appeared to be a widely extended and beautiful park, belted in the distance with woodland over which the eye ranged afar. The ground was finely undidated^ and here and there ornamented with interspersed 110 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. clumps of the White Oak and other timber, in such forms that our picturesque planters of high- est repute might fairly own themselves outdone. The effect was indeed striking, and we halted to enjoy it until the last rays of the beautiful luminary told the necessity of hurrying on to the settlement, in search of quarters for the night ; in- dulging by the way sanguine hopes of an Eng- lish supper and comfort as a matter of course at an English settlement. The road was good, yet the length of way made it nearly dark when we drove up to the log tavern ; before the door und dispersed, stood several groups of people, who seemed so earnest in discourse that they scarcely heeded us ; others, many of whom were noisy from the effects of a visit to the whiskey store, crowded round to look at us ; and amidst the general confusion as we carried the luggage in (having first obtained a bed-room,) I was not a little apprehensive of losing some of it. How- ever, we got all safely stored, and taking the horses off led them into a straw-yard full of others, for there was no stable room to be had ; and what was worse no water, not sufficient even to sprinkle over some Indian corn which we got far them. The landlord did all that lay in his power, but our own fare proved little better than that of our horses, which spoke volumes ENGLISH SETTLE1\IENT. Ill on the state of the settlement ; some very rancid butter, a little sour bread, and some slices of lean fried beef, which it was vain to expect the teeth could penetrate, washed down by bad coffee sweetened with wild honey, formed our repast. We asked for eggs, — milk, — sugar, — salt; the answer to all was " We have none." The cows had strayed away for some days in search of water, of which the people could not obtain sufficient for their ovv^n ordinary drink ; there bemo- none for cattle, or to wash themselves, or clothes. After making such a meal as we could, and having spread our own sheets I laid down armed at all points, that is with gloves and stock- ings on, and a long rough flannel dressing gown, and thus defended slept pretty well. In the morning a request was sent to Mr. Birkbeck for some water, understanding that he had a plentifully supplied well ; — the answer sent back was, that he made it a general rule to refuse every one : a similar application to Mr. Flower however met with a different fate, and the horses were not only well supplied, but a pitcher of good water was sent for our breakfast. If the first was not punished for his general refusal the latter was rewarded for his grant by find- ing on his grounds and not far from his house, two days after, a plentiful spring of clear 112 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT* water, which immediately broke out on the first spit of earth's being removed ; this real treasure I saw flowing ; the discovery of it appeared mira- culous in the midst of so general a drou2:ht. We now sallied out to take a view of the settlement, which is marked out not on prairie, but on woodland, only just partially cleared here and there where a house is built ; so that there is yet but little appearance of a town. A very neat roofed-in building for a market first attracts the eye ; at one end, parted off with boards, and under the same roof is a very decent place of worship ; which is at present of a size sufficient for the place. While we were viewing this edifice a young Englishman introduced himself with a v/elcome to us, and hopes expressed that I should settle among them ; he v/as, I found, the medical man of the place, and in himself cer- tainly formed one inducement to stay, for he seemed to be a very pleasant communicative man, he possessed a very prettily finished pic- turesque cottage and seemed sanguine in his hopes of the success of the settlement. We visited a wheelwright next ; one of the many who had been induced by Mr. Birkbeck to emigrate soon after he himself left England : — The man's story is shortly this : he and his brother sailed ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. 113 for America; and were induced by Mr. B/s " Notes" to leave the Eastern parts where good employment was offered to them, and to repair to the Prairies. On arriving, he found none of the cottages ready for the reception of emigrants which his reading had led him to expect, nor any comforts whatever: he v.as hired however by Mr, B., and got a log hut erected; but for six months the food left for his subsistence was only some reas/j/ bacon and Indian com, with water a considerable part of the time completely muddy; while Mr. B., himself at Princetown and elsewhere, did not, as he might have done, send him any relief. On account of these hardships the man left him, set up for himself, and now has, he told me, plenty of work, but he seemed doubtful of the pay. These are the facts as related to me by others, and corroborated bv the man : — If true, without some strong qualifying circumstances, I leave Mr. B. to settle with his conscience the bringing peo- ple out thus far, by his misrepresentations, to hopeless banishment ; for return they cannot, thougfh thev would be 2:lad so to do. Our tavern-keeper, who was a veiy respectable farmer, left a good farm near Baldock in Hertford- shire, guided by ]Mr. Birkbecks book, to find health, wealth, and freedom at Boulton-house 1 114 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. Prairie : of the two first both himself and family were quickly getting rid, while they were abso- lutely working each day like horses without one comfort left. — " How came you," said I, " to leave so good a farm as you had in England 1 " His answer was, "Mr. Birkbeck's book." — "You would be glad now to return?" added I. "Sir, said he," "we must not think that way; we have buried our property in getting here, and must here remain ! " Such facts as these are worth a thousand flattering theories on the other side ; and another may be here added, — perhaps a salu- tary caution to Mr. B. if this should be the first intimation — that the angry feelings of the poor people who had been entrapped by the deceptions colouring of his writings, fl.ashed out in true English threats of tossing him in a blanket ! I abstain from comment upon this, my business being to state facts. I forbear too from respect for a man of good natural abilities ; misled him- self by a sanguine temper w^hich has been the cause of his misleading others : I will be silent too upon the subject of private differences, con- ceiving that public acts alone are those in which the public are interested, and ought to be inquisitiv^e. Mr. Flower followed up his seasonable supply of water, v/ith a call and invitation to his house, ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. 115 which was gladly accepted ; being much dis- gusted at the deplorable state of ill health, anxious looks, despair and discontent, depicted in so many faces around, — to relieve or even alleviate which we possessed no means. The contrast to this at Mr. Flower's was violent and pleasing; there, we met with every polite and hospitable attention during our stay, and from thence alone we were grieved to depart. In the midst of these wilds the elegant repast and social conveHrse were again, as if by magic, enjoyed ; and in such agreeable dissipation of mind the purposes of the journey were perhaps too much lost sight of, and many inquiries neg- lected which are now causes of regret. We did not fail however to explore the retreat of Mr. Morris Birkbeck, — a pleasant drive across the Prairie brought us to the Flat, at one extremity of which Mr. B. has established himself. We found him busy superintending the building of his house ; the site of which is within twenty yards of his erection of logs, a square building divided into two rooms, as I heard, for we did not see the interior of this sanctum sanctorum from whence have been issued relations of so many snug cottages, with adjoining piggeries, cow- steads, gardens, and orchards ; where the limbs of the poor emigrant were to find repose and his I 2 116 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. mind solace, not to mention the ranges of log rooms for the arch priest himself which were building two years ago ;* all— all have vanished *' into thin air," except the humble primitive log building before mentioned. This serves the whole family, according to the cobler's song, "For parlour, for kitchen and hall;" and furnishes a proof, though perhaps not sufficient for every one, (the world is so incredulous,) of Mr. Birkbeck's humility, for he certainly does not at present enjoy the otim/i cum digniiate w^hatever he may have in pros- pect. Up to this log building v\^ith some meandering 1 drove; and seeing a little man, who by description received, appeared to be Major domo, I sent to tell him that an English traveller had called and begged to see his im- provements ; upon w^hich he approached, and after salutation, turning towards and pointing to his primitive hut, observed that it was still his residence, to which so attached had he become that he should quit it with regret. He then drew my attention to his new house, which he said, was building according to a promise made to his daughters; and he invited us to inspect it. Alighting therefore, he led the way * Mj\ Birkbeck's letters from the Illinors. ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. 117 over a sufficiently commodious dwelling, no part of which was yet finished but the library, placed at the gable end on the first floor and the approach to it up a high flight of stairs on the outside of the house : here we found the Misses B. ; they were engaged in some ornamental needle- work, and received us like sensible, agreeable girls. Upon the table lay a flute, an instrument upon which one of them plays ; and every thing was well arrayed to give eflect, as well as the sterling, good, and for a private library large as^ sortment of books. A fine healthy boy, his son, came up and presented to us some bunches of wild grapes he had just gathered, the only refreshment I believe offered ; and I took leave, after having in vain endeavoured to gain informa^ tion as to his corn-crops, the success of clover, and other seeds. This was strange, but not so particularly unaccountable as at the time I thought it ; for, I afterwards learned he had not sown either one or the other, although he ventures to put forth this year in one of the American news- papers, what in charity we will suppose a day-dream — a pleasing mental deception, in the form of a letter in which he expresses himself thus ; (I quote from memory having mislaid the journal,) '• We have now about as many acres 118 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. of corn sown as there are settlers, that is seven hundred." Now, from the best inquiries I could make, there was not then two hundred and fifty acres sown in the whole settlement, and on Mr. Birkbeck's ground not a rood! Therefore, it may be truly said, that the colony was still for its existence depending for bread upon the exertions of those who, from a distance of many miles, bought and brought corn and flour for the market. In corroboration, I will here insert an extract from a published journal by a Mr. Hulme, formerly a great bleacher near Man- chester, and a friend of Mr. B., who had lately paid him a visit. Mr. H. writes, " The whole of his operations had been directed hitherto (and wisely in my opinion,) to building, fencing, and other important preparations. He had done nothing in the cultivating way but make a good garden, which supplies him with the only things that he cannot purchase, and purchase too with more economy than he could grow them." This Mr. Hulme knew the comforts and cheap- ness of Philadelphia, and its market, too well to think of settling at Boulton- house Prairie; besides, he evidently sneers, as much as a friend can, at the choice of situation Mr. B. has made, because it appears not to possess any ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. 119 of the capabilities for mills, &c. : he adds, ** I was rather disappointed, or sorry at any rate, not to find near Mr. Birkbeck's any of the means for machinery, such as water-falls, minerals, and mines ; some of those however he may yet find." Thus has Mr. B. chosen to build a house, plant a garden, and dwell in a situation where he cannot grow corn so cheap as he can purchase it, and have it conveyed at a considerable expence from the settlement of Harmony,* distant above twenty miles ; in a situation too, which if it have any recommendation at all, it must be for the purposes of agriculture, for others it has none that are yet discovered. This may be to the taste, and it may suit the purse of Mr. B., and no one could fairly find fault with him for pleas- ing himself; but, when he steps beyond this line, and publishes plausible representations to induce others to seek fortune and independence in such situations, he is then doing that which he has no right to do, and has much to answer for : he has led people into this wilderness where, for any thing he has done, they may in vain look around for the expected shelter; they will see only Mr. B's house and garden, and perhaps * The reader may suppose that corn might be grown at the English Prairie as cheap as at Harmony ; why it caunot vsnll clearly appear in the account of this Colony, 120 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. two or three log huts which at present constitute the whole of the new town of Wansborough; in short, he seems only to have thought of himself and to have falsified his public promises. I believe it to be a fact that the colony could not have outlived the winter of 1818, but that the whole must have been dispersed or starved, had it not been for the exertions of Mr. Flower ; who perceived in time the coming want, and at considerable trouble and expence obtained a sufficient and timely supply. Mr. Birkbeck, in his publication, inveighs strongly against land- jobbing; yet if I am correctly informed he has obtained and is now gaining great profits by it, — he has entered as many as thirty thousand acres, which he now disposes of in lots as high, where he can, as four dollars per acre ; it seems indeed to be his only business, to carry on which with better success he has given to others, it is said, an interest in the concern to find out and bring in purchasers of more money than judg- ment. One of these jackals, reported to be so employed, I met with on the road. Having said thus much of an individual who has become noted for promissory books, and M'ho therefore deserves to be noted for non-perform- ance, let us turn to the contemplation of that which has been accomplished by those who did ENGLISH SKTTLEMEXT. 121 not promise any thing, but who have done much. Mr. Flower, ably assisted by his father and in conjunction with a few others, has formed the settlement of New Albion, (an auspicious name ;) and notwithstanding the miserably unprovided state in which 1 found it, much had certainly been done, and more was rapidly doing towards rendering the place habitable. Among other well- judged resolutions, they had determined, that in future all the houses should be substantially built of bricks, for the manufacture of which they have, as I understood, plenty of good clay . in the neighbourhood. A neat covered market, and place of worship, as before observed, had been finished and opened to the public ; to which I have to add that a roomy boarding house and tavern were half up ; a store (shop) pretty well supplied was opened ; a wheel- wright has been already mentioned : besides this trade many other artisans had come in, and the chief want was a sufficiency of the several materials of their business to work upon ; but fair expectations may be entertained that, ere this account shall be published, the place will have become well supplied with most of the common comforts of life, not excepting the essen- tial of water. It clearly appears, that at present the 122 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. produce of the earth can be bought cheaper than it can be grown here ; but let us look forward to the period when this shall not be the case, and the time must surely soon arrive or the colony cannot long exist : — ^What then will be the prospect of a market that the settler will have for the produce, which shall be more than the consumption of the neighbourhood ? It is this, — at about twelve miles distance is a place called Bon Pas, .consisting of a tavern and two or three houses, situated upon a creek communicating with the Wabash river ; to this creek, (the mud in which not always allowing boats to come up it,) as the nearest point from the English settle- ment to water carriage, all the corn and other exportable produce must be hauled by land ; to be conveyed in boats down to Shawnee town on the Ohio,' (sixty miles,) and thence down that river and the Mississippi to New Orleans : there to be shipped either for Europe, or for the eastern ports of America. It must be obvious then, that the price which can possibly be allowed to the western grower, in order to meet the eastern farmer on equal terms in his own market, must ever make the business of the first a compara- tively bad one : and as it is thus in the American markets so will it be in Europe ; the freight from the eastern ports being so much less, as ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. 123 the distance is less, and navigation safer; — but against this manifest disadvantage may be set the supposed greater feiJility of the western country, and the less price of the land per acre : but it will never do. — These advantages, if grant- ed, are more than counterbalanced by the higher price of all the imported articles of common consumption. The best hope of the English settlement must be, that in the common course of events, the time may arrive when the population will be suffici- ent to make its own markets ; and awaiting that period, they must be resigned to sink their im- mediate interests in the prospect of laying the foundation of future fortune for their posterity. Meanwhile, it may have attractions for many ; whether on account of their principles religious or political, from general turn of mind, or mis- fortunes met with elsewhere; to such it may afford an asylum: but let none forget that the comforts of life are more than cent per cent dear- er (and many are not to be obtained at all,) than they are in the eastern States; and that for this cause, more than the climate it is, that health is far more likely to be preserved in the old settled country, than here. The strange heterogeneous mixture of charac- ters which are collected hither by the magic 124 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. pen of Mon'is Birkbeck, is truly ludicrous. Among- many others, a couple now attend to the store at Albion who lately lived in a dashing style in London net far from Bond-street ; the lady brought over her white satin shoes and gay dresses, rich carpets, and every thing but what in such a place she would require ; yet I under- stand that they have accommodated themselves to their new situations, hand out the plums, sugar, whiskey, kc, with tolerable grace, and at least " do not seem to mind it." At Bon Pas we sat down to a wild turkey with a party among whom was an exquisite, so complete, tliEit had it been the age of genies, I should have thought it had been pounced upon while loung- ing along Rotten-row, whirled through the air, and for sport set down in this wilderness to asto- nish the natives : the whole has truly a most pantomimic effect, and Momus might keep his court at this anomalous scene, and laugh to his full content. Let us now bid adieu to the English settle- ment, my sentiments respecting which are, from what has been said, so obvious as to render any thing more unnecessary. We are taking the road to the German settlement called Harmony, and will only stop the wheels to make mention of the very complete farm yards and surrounding HARMONY. 125 buildings, which Mr. Flower has erected; also of his flock, consisting of upwards of four hun- dred sheep, which has been collected in a very short space of time and part of which he brought from England; these feed during the day upon the prairies, and are brought into the yards at night for safety from the wolves and bears * A yoke of fine oxen too were daily plowing for him the prairie land, and preparing a considera- ble breadth of it for cultivation : — But thoutrh men of capital may thus in great measure bring many of their comforts with them, and attract others, yet after all that can be said of this place it is at present a bad concern ; from which it was with no small pleasure that I knew myself in a situation to get away; and many, — many expressed themselves to be of the same opinion, though with rueful faces, for they were obliged to stay, having spent their all to get there. HARMONY. From Bon Pets (the future Emporium of the commerce of New Albion !) we soon crossed the Wabash at a ferry of difficult approach ; for the * A relation of Mr. Flower's shot a bear during my stay. 120 HARMONY. river banks are steep and high, and the descent is therefore rather dangerous for a carriage; we got over safe however, and then keeping the river close on the right, arrived in the evening at the German settlement, and put up at the excellent good tavern, neatness itself, but furnished in the very plainest manner, and beyond a three cor- nered arm chair, there was not a piece of fur- niture which could excite the repose of indolence or the indulgence of luxury. After a plain repast, accompanied however with some good beer and a bottle of white wine, both the produce of the colony, (for the last we paid one dollar,) we sallied out to take a view of a place which could afford such good cheer. Before we proceed to examine it, however, I am disposed to talk a little of the great cementing principle of the society — a com- munion of goods. — While the rest of mankind are given up to a selfish principle ; while each one is amassing the possessions of this transitory scene, grasping them truly as if he were never to part with them, these people, under the guidance of their spiritual pastor M. Rapp, are shewing to the world the practicability of what they esteem the real christian principle ; they are living in the utmost harmony with a strict com- munion of property. All the products of the earth, which all contribute their share of labour HARMONY. 127 to produce, are deposited in the common stock, whence each one receives whatever may be re- quired for his comforts. Indeed, what my host at the tavern told me seems perfectly true ; " We have every thing we can want" says he, "for our comfort and somethind^'Jte>fPney ^^TViier HARMONY. 129 the advantage of a healthy air : the streets are of spacious width crossing each other at right angles, and lined with Lombardy poplars: the houses, which at leisure are to be replaced by others of more durable materials, are at present log cottages of a pleasing picturesque plan, and very neatly thatched ; to each is attached a garden, a yard, a shed, and out-house for the cow and other purposes, the whole having an air of great comfort. Near the inn in a square open space stands the church, which, though formed of wood and boarded, is a handsome large build- ing. On one side this square is the house of the pastor, the materials of good brick. It is large, and finished in the best style of workman- ship. Of the same material they have also built a spacious store which contains articles of gro- cery, hardware, and indeed every thing that the inhabitants of the surrounding country require, and with these it seemed to carry on great busi- ness : this store is guarded with close iron-barred windows, and its general appearance corres- ponding, I inquired Avhat occasion they had for a prison ? This caution is no compliment to the honesty of the settlers around. A large steam mill is at work constantly, where they grind corn, card wool, saw boards, &c. : they have also thrashing machines of great power and indeed K 130 HARMONY. a vast variety of other machinery; they dye cloth pretty M^ell : there are buildings ample for school instruction, and in short, (for, to enu- merate every thing v^ould require a long residence among them,) they seem to possess every com- fort. The vines were loaded with beautiful ripe grapes both black and white; and they were fast covering the hills of sandy soil in the neigh- bourhood with new vinyards. It was the Indian- corn harvest, and the young women and children, standing in a large circle, were employed in stripping off the leaves and throwing the cobs into baskets, which the men carried into the barns on willing shoulders. We contemplated this scene with much pleasure and then pro- ceeded to take a view of the country around the settlement; which w^e found cleared to great extent, and sown with wheat looking^ luxuriantly and promising abundance. The whole here described, and probably much more might escape observation, has been effected in the short period of five years and a half! — • They may fairly take for their motto vis unita fortior, for they have accomplished wonders by it ; far more than money could have effected with mercenary workmen, and far better too, for here is no interest to deceive the employer ; they work for themselves. But, though inclined. HARMONY. 131 T must not dilate upon this fascinating principle which seems to strike at the root of most if not all of the moral evils of society ; heartily hoping that its practicability may stand the test, and prove its sterling character, I shall therefore take leave of the subject with a few more obser- vations, w^hich will end what I have to say respecting this quiet industrious people. They keep no accompts of the several branches of their industry ; — an annual taking of stock is all they think necessary ; which is done in order to know the extent of their resources, and that they may be able to calculate their sufficiency to the wants for the year. There was, I must confess after all, a dull sameness pervading the place, which I am wil- ling to attribute rather to the phlegmatic German character than to their institutions. There is too, a depression of spirit which hangs about every man, far removed from the country which gave him birth, from those early scenes of child- hood upon which his eye first rested with delight, and from those friends " he ne'er shall see again." Expatriated communities, like plants removed from the seed bed, for awhile sicken; but if planted in a genial soil they in time take firm root, again spread abroad their leaves, and flourish. K 2 132 HARMOKY. Mu§ic they have, for we heard a grand piano- forte well played ; they may have other instru- ments and also other amusements though I saw none ; and their language, which I did not understand, precluded conversation, for no one, except my host of the tavern, not even M. Rapp, spoke English or French. The women, to use the phrase of a polite man, are the least handsome I ever beheld : the Colony therefore may possibly not be much disturbed by female intrigues, and thus be free from one other great cause of embroilment among mankind. To conclude my observations, they seem accord- ing to their own ideas a happy people ; and did they possess a little more liveliness, more polish, and talk English one might have lived among them, which is more than I felt inclined to do in any other society we met with. October 3d. We were now considerably above four thousand miles from home. It was the origi- nal intention that we should winter at Vincennes, on which account various necessaries had been sent from Philadelphia as well as brought with us; but I had already nearly seen enough, and having been informed, also judging from what 1 had seen, * (Of hair-breadth 'scapes i' the imminent river banks Morasses vast and desarts idle. Rough quarries, rocks, and hills whose heads touch heaven ;) THE RETURN. 133 that the roads of Indiana were seldom pas- sable for wheels in the spring of the year, and not until the beginning of summer, I began to think that a winter and following spring passed in the western country, might leave the choice of a win- ter passage home or the further delay of another year ; which would be too long a detainer from old Endand : and we therefore entertained thoughts of getting back before winter to one of the eastern ports, whence, if necessary, we might embark at any time during the winter, or otherwise to stay till spring. Not to lose time and fair weather therefore, in getting back to Vincennes to make arrangements for the return, we quitted the interesting colony of Harmony early in the morning; having to drive thirty miles to Princetown the nearest station. Through- out the whole of my journey, though sometimes at a loss, I was fortunate enough not once to lose the way ; a circumstance partly owing to being very particular in noting directions when- ever they could be obtained— a plan that cannot be too strongly recommended to travellers through difficult countries. Let them not be content with directions from one individual, but ask every one they may meet ; I have often had cause to repent confidently passing a person, and within half a mile after havq found myself in uncertainty : this 134 THE RETURN . was the case on leaving Harmony after obtaining what we thought full directions ; but people who know a country are hardly ever sufficiently cir- cumstantial to a stranger. In a few miles we passed in the midst of the forest a solitary meeting-house, and soon after met several respectable looking people on horseback in their Sunday clothes coming to it. We were this day probably beholden to our fire- arms for safety; and though many travellers do not carry them, I strongly recommend all those who have any property not to omit it. A ruffian- looking fellow had introduced himself to me at Harmony, under pretence of shewing a note which he had received, he said, above thirty miles westward, and which proving to be a forgery he must go back to exchange. He wanted much to be informed of my route, but this of course T avoided telling, and thought no more of him ; but to-day, instead of going back as he had said, we suddenly saw him riding after us upon a wretched horse, and he soon passed with such a dogged look that I had no doubt on my mind of his intentions, which were the more confirmed by his stopping afterwards frequently and look- ing about and at us. So we got under arms; I placing the rifle between my legs as I drove, and the pistols at my side : he evidently wavered THE RETURN. 135 in his resolution, apprehensive that more people might be near on their way to the meeting, and perhaps not liking our number. We soon came up with him, however, at a log-hut, where he was fortifying with whiskey ; and as we marched past we took care he should see we were pre- pared : he looked hard, but before we were out of sight struck off in another direction and we saw him no more. Slept at Princetown ; where there was found nothing more important to note than a tolerable good inn, and some blackberry wine of my host's own manufacture, for a bottle of which he had the conscience to charge a dollar, and " by the light of the moon" next evening we got safe back to Vincennes, and found those of our party left there during this expedition all well. From this pleasant town we made short excursions in the neighbourhood, and a week passed in irresolution whether to winter or attempt the return at this season ; for various were the representations and advice upon the subject : among the inducements to stay there is plenty of shooting of all kinds, the place is healthy, and we had the offer of a furnished house. — If the reader has been called upon to act under circumstances where the pros and cons have been so equally balanced, that it seemed not possible to refer the affair to the J 36 A VINCENNES MERCHANT. decision of the judgment, ^perhaps he has tossed up. /did not, but I resolved to go : and having once determined, the necessary arrangements vi^ere soon made; the baggage waggon and its contents to a considerable value were intrusted to the honour and honesty of a Vincennes mer- chant,* and with my dearborn, and luckily all the four horses, on the 11th October, I com- menced my retreat. I intended to take the same route homeward as far as Tanesville, (Ohio,) and from thence by a northerly course to Lake Erie, proceed to the Falls of Niagara, then to Albany and down the north river to New York ; but the lateness of the season afterwards induced me reluctantly to alter the plan, and to return through Maryland. In retracing our steps we shall not have occasion for much observation, until we take new ground on entering the State of Maryland. From Vincennes the first v/eek brought us to Louisville ; a distance of near one hundred and * On returning- to Philadelphia, and stating- how I had dis- posed of the baggage I was greeted with grins and smiles; one said he would not give fifty dollars for my chance, another offered ten, and in short I found that no smart fellow thought of trustino- another in America; and that he who should think himself safe under the pledge of honour or honesty was con- sidered a flat and deserving to be taken in ! At Vincennes I had yet to learn this at the expense of at least 9, thousand doUais. BAXK PAPER. 137 fifty miles. I had been instructed, by the per- sons who cashed my bill at Vincennes, to consult with a broker of this town who was requested to exchange those notes which were not at par for others that were so, taking a per centage for the transaction — he did so ; and the reader is inform- ed, in order that he may have some idea of the state of the banks and of public credit, that twenty-iive per cent or one quarter was the difference of value of notes between Louisville and Vincennes.* The end of the second week brought us again to Maysville, or Limestone on the Ohio, which divides Kentucky from Ohio State. The country does not lose on the reveiw ; even in Indiana it seems to be cultivated to greater extent than at first sight it appeared to be ; the weather is delightful, and the various tints with which the foliage glows is far beyond the reach of pen or pencil. This season is called here the Indian * This depreciation will appear nothing when compared with the following. Towards the close of the struggle for indepen- dence a Mr. S***** travelled westward in order to collect some out-standing debts; after receiving which in notes and on his road home, he actually paid within sixteen miles of Philadelphia, three hundred dollars for a breakfast, and even this bargain he would not have been able to make, he found on his return, to that city ! The government have never been able to enter into any arrangements to redeem. these notes. 138 lewis's tavern. summa\ and indeed the agreeable temperature of the air, the beauty of the day, and the variety of forest scenery I could much wish to describe though vain would be the attempt. Let the reader imagine the finest autumnal day in Eng- land, and suppose an unvaried succession of such days, as far from oppressive heat as from cold ; let him then cull from our woods every tint of autumn's foliage, heighten every colour in imagination, and add more; then perhaps he may have a faint idea of the Indian summer season. At Lewis's tavern in Indiana we witnessed a fine appearance of the aurora borealis ; beau- tiful columns of light in constant motion and of great breadth continually darted upward, ex- tending and shortening by turns while others crossed these; the whole moved gradually to- wards the west. At this place we were overtaken by a lady and gentleman, their child and nurse, returning to Lexington from an excursion to the new settlement of Indostan on the White river; — they travelled in their own carnage, (a chariot) it may therefore be well supposed that the roads were tolerably good. Their arrival caused a good deal of con- sultation and contrivance for the night's accom- modations; there was but one room for both TAVERNS. 139 parties, which, by hanging up sheets and other substitutes for curtains, was at length divided into four ; — beds were then spread, and all slept quietly without furnishing any scene in which either Scarron or Fielding would have delighted : 'tis true we set fire to the log chimney, for the night was cold, and we had piled the faggots a little too high, but this was luckily seen before retiring to rest, or it might have been attended with serious consequences to us. My host, a shrewd spirited little fellow, strutting about in the short cloak a I'Espagnol worn here, and with his black worsted remains of stockings full of holes, which did not in the least damp his self- conceit, told me next morning, on my remarking the scarcity of houses of entertainment for travel- lers, that indeed another good house besides his own was much wanted on the road. Great is the facility of acquiring money here if a man has judgment ; he first looks out for some spot where a tavern is wanted, he imme- diately cuts down the trees around and puts toge- ther a rude log hut, which he covers with shingles (wood tiles ;) a board is then inscribed '' tavern, " or '' house of entertainment." Inside you find it very sparingly furnished, but he has got some fowls and spirits, and if he minds, his fortune is made. Travellers are plentiful, and his charges 140 MILITIA. as high as if he could treat them with every comfort, instead of putting two people commonhi, and sometimes three, into a bed ; in a room, too, containing four, five and six beds ! The horses are put into another inclosure of logs, the inter- stices of which near a foot wide, (in summer an advantage,) are not at all closed even during the severity of winter. At Paoli town, Indiana, we arrived on the day of militia muster, and found there a con- siderable concourse of people, for it appeared to be a holiday. It would have been idle to look for the regular uniform, correctness of evolutions and discipline, where probably neither the power nor the wish to attain these existed ; a few only wore a uniform of neat grey colour w^ith sash and long feather ; the rest in the usual dress, and each man armed with his rifle. The amusement or chief exercise of the day, beyond the roll call, seemed to be firing at marks, at which they have justly established a character for great dexterity. Yet the American has but little skill with his arms in hitting a moving object, whether running or flying; indeed he scarcely ever attempts it, and he must too have his accustomed weapon or it is a chance if he succeeds; — a man dexterous with his rifle was admiring the pistols I carried; and wished to RIFLE SHOOTING. 141 try them ; he shot twice at fifteen paces without even hitting the tree on which the mark was placed : that the pistols may not be supposed faulty, I mention, though no practiser with the weapon, that I hit close to the mark each shot, and with both, for he would change thinking mine might be the best. The same person with his own rifle without a rest, (which aid by the way is frequently taken advantage of,) at sixty yards shot from a tree a piece of paper no larger than we could see. Towards evening the multi- tude dispersed, and again the silence of the desert prevailed. At Louisville we first saw the effects of a violent epidemic disease which had attacked the horses, and many were dying of it. The dis- order appeared first upon the tongue, without any previous symptons of fever that I perceived ; blebs or blisters rose, broke, and increasing in number the whole tongue shortly became com- pletely skinned and much swelled ; the malady extended itself gradually down the throat, and the animal died, more it would appear from in- ability to take in food than immediately owing to the disorder. — Almost every horse we met on the - road had caught the infection ; at Louisville and Frankfort, at the last in particular, I saw near forty altogether in one yard: various were the 142 MO:SET EXCHANGE. modes of treatment : some bled them and gave phvsic upon the first appearance : diet, soft mashes with nitre honey and the insides of o-ourds : the animals seemed to suffer great! jr from hunger. The local applications were a mixture of copperas, alum, and blue vitriol pulverized and rubbed upon the tongue twice or more each day, in order to destroy the acti- ^-ity of the disease, and a frequent washing between these applications, with honey and alum water. This was the mode of treatment I adopted,* for three of my horses caught it, and thev all recovered, though one was reduced so low that I was obliged to exchange him at Alavsville. With the others we continued the joumev without the delay of one day, and they were in better condition on re-entering Philadel- phia than when they left it. Af Lexington (Kentucky) we stopped at the Indian Queen which is a good house. Another change of notes became here necessary ; those of the Bank of the United States were not to be procured, and no others being received with any certainty on the road, I sold the notes chansred at Louisville for dollais at a further discount of two and a half per cent, and even * I added to the diet, strong gruel of Indian corn meal, or whf at flour, which enabled them to trarel. MON'EV EXCHANGE. 143 for this bargain I was again beholden to the good offices of the same gentleman who had kindly cashed my draft when going westward. My dollars were put into a bag, and as I returned swinging them along to the tavern, the weight caused some reflections on the different effects on mankind of specie and paper as circulating mediums ; — the first, by its weight obviously tends to make one think more of expenditure even in small siims ; the latter, by the facility it affords of carrying in the pocket-book sums of anv magnitude must have a directly reverse effect ; — perhaps one of the greatest evils attend- ant upon the paper money system may be attri- buted to this cause, and the very inconvenience which I now experience of carrying an incon- siderable sum in specie might therefore, if general, be an important means of raising the value of monev, and of establishing economy in pniblic and private affairs. 25th. Quitted Mr. Chambers hospitable house at Maysville ; and crossing the river ascended the steep hill which immediately presents itself in the State of Ohio. — On reaching the top we received the first intimation of a change of wea- ther — snow had fallen and did not disappear the whole day from the shade; gales of wind now blew, and rain had lately fallen in different 144 LATE EMTGRAKTS. parts in sufficient quantity to render the roads wretchedly bad : our progress was now slow and frequently difficult ; — we passed several laden waggons of emigrating parties either set fast in the clay and digging out, or broken down and waiting for the aid of some distant blacksmith. This was a sad change of scene, however we kept up a good spirit, and having a light though strong carriage, good cattle, and helping these with our own exertions up some of the steepest hills, we surmounted all difficulties, and arrived without accident the end of the fourth week at Washington, Pensilvania, distant from Vincennes above five hundred miles. Travellers, whether through unformed tracks of distant countries or over the mighty mass of waters, must possess minds little susceptible of impression, if they do not, in such situations, feel themselves more peculiarly under the pro- tecting hand of providence. To pass safely a length of way, where a false step might fre- quently bring destruction, is alone a subject of thankfulness ; but to have seen themselves within a moment, a hair's breadth of destruction, and to be preserved, must bring the sentiment to their minds with tenfold force: one day while tra- versing Ohio State, a gust of wind blew off the top of a large dead tree, which fell with a WEST UNION. 145 tremendous crash on the spot over which in another moment of time we should have been passing ! At West Union, a small town with a good court-house, we had intended to sleep ; but on arriving found the whole place full of people and to obtain beds impossible ; at which the owners of the tavern very civilly expressed their regret, and though in the midst of hurry and bustle thought to speak for beds to the owner of a good private house, three or four miles fur- ther who happened to be in the inn. While the horses were feeding however, we went into a room, the table of which was covered with a profusion of fowls, ham, veal, beef, and many other symptoms of plenty ; to partake of which the hostess very hospitably pressed us, and, that we might not be backward in accepting her proffered good cheer, assured us that it would be no loss to them, as every thing on the table would be swept away not to appear again ; for especially upon these occasions nothing was ever brought on a second time. — " Have you no poor people to accept of the remains ?" said I. She knew but of one family, she replied, to whom it could possibly be acceptable, and she did not think even these would receive it. An additional instance this, proving that food is abundant in L 146 AMERICAN VENISON. this country. Paid here for a new horse-shoe about eighteenpence sterling. In passing through Ohio, the Derbyshire of the United States, we found in the sitting-rooms coal fires used almost generally in preference to wood ; but from an extraordinary prejudice, which even exists at Philadelphia and other places, wood is still used for the purpose of cookery, and they will not believe that a dinner can be dressed properly at a coal hre. We again slept at Wheeling, and again were much pleased with the situation. Old Major Sprigs did us the honour to entertain us at his very good house, though it was very perceptible that he, in common with so many more, is not in charity with English blood : as a proof of the feeling, he was complaining of the rats about his premises, none of which vermin, he said, "were to be found in the country before the English brought them ! " This is the beginning of the season for Venison. A man came to the door with a horse-load which the Major bought for threepence sterling per lb., the price asked. Let not the reader long for American venison and fancy it to resemble a fine haunch fed in an English park ; it is lean and more like horse-flesh, with very few exceptions. Many families and other parties were still wait- -J'**ii-- OHIO RIVER. 147 ing- here, and at otlier places where we had cross- ed the Ohio, until the rising of its waters siiould enable them to pass down to the west : this did not happen, I was told, in the past year until the month of December ; and to all appearance it may be as late this season ; during the interval these poor people are exhausting their resources, losing their time, and at last will pass down the river at a most unpleasant and dangerous season of the year, if the ice should permit, a circum- stance not probable : those travellers therefore, who intend such mode of conveyance, (a very plea- sant one in summer,) should not start later than May ; as the waters rapidly subside after June, when it frequently happens that none but light and nearly flat-bottomed boats can get down.* — * It was in the beginning of November when I crossed the Ohio near Louisville ; at that time a fine new steam vessel, of I believe two hundred and fifty tons burthen, was waiting the rise of the water. What a daily loss this detainer must have been to the proprietors ! Many people were staying at Louisville in order to go passengers by her to New Orleans, a journey of be- tween fifteen hundred and two thousand miles, which was to be performed in six days independent of wind : to get back it would require three or four weeks. This vessel was to convey the western mail to New Orleans — the accommodations in every res- pect were excellent and the whole interior was fitted up in the most complete manner ; the price to New Orleans for each pas- senger was, I understood, forty dollars, l2 148 INLAND NAVIGATION". The rivers of North America it must be acknow- ledged are grand, but this annual loss of water will perhaps ever be a drawback to their utility which no art can remedy. I am more than half inclined, however, to withdraw this opinion, for American enterprise is alive to the object ; and two works which 1 saw in progress, and which by this time may be finished, give promise that much may be accomplished ; — one of these is at Louisville, where a canal cut at great expense will enable vessels to avoid the Falls of the Ohioy dangerous at all times, and often impassable ; — another on the Schuylkil, where the aim is to deepen the water sufficiently to render it at all times navigable.* Weirs are carried at certain distances nearly across the river, leaving a space for a short canal with two locks to pass vessels. Should this plan become generally adopted on those rivers where the navigation fails annually from the loss of water, it will, among other good results, conduce essentially to the health of the climate ; by preventing the stagnant pools left in hollows, and the exposure of slime and mud to the sun, now the pregnant source of disorders. Where, or when an American uses water for the purpose of washing more than his face and fin- * Another intention by raising' the waters of the Schuylkill- is> I underslood, to supply Philadtlphia with its >Yater. WASHINGTOX, 149 gers, does not appear, for no water ever goes up stairs at a tavern unless your own servants take it. Under the shed of the house, water and tin basons are placed in the morning, and each one on coming down rubs his face and hands over ; — they may bathe perhaps in the rivers occasion-' ally ; if not, they are decidedly dirty people. — An English youth at our inn at Wheeling in order to wash himself a little more effectually, let his shirt down to his waistband ; an attempt at clean-i liness so unusual, caused a general surprise and laugh among the. yahoos. At a small place called Claysville, a stage from Washington (Pensilvania), a man came to offer to the tavern-keeper for sale a fat pig ; the price he demanded was about two shillings and sixpence sterling per stone of fourteen pounds, and I was told that he would have taken a quarter less. — Another proof this, if one were wanting, of the cheapness and plenty of food.* We stayed a day at Washington, Pensilvania, comfortably received at Mr. Morris's good tavern, and then took a new route by the south-west corner of this State : crossing the Monongahela river we baited at Brownsville, at an excellent house kept by Mr. Evans, an emigrant ; from * This year fine new cyder was plentiful iu Ohio State, at a d)llar a barrel of thirty g.illons. 150 MARYLAND. thence, by a fine new road through Union Town, we soon entered the picturesque State of Mary- land, and arrived at a small town called Fort Cumberland. The traveller by this route will pass the mountains scarcely knowing it, except from the fine views of the subjacent country which are frequently presented to view ; that from the top of the hill about eleven or twelve miles west of Cumberland is truly magnificient. Along this well-formed road we pass without once being stopped to pay toll, and 1 understood it to be the intention of the United States govern- ment to finish and support this western road, from Washington the seat of the government down to New Orleans, by a fund to be raised solely for that purpose ; a liberal plan and worthy of imitation. Of the few picturesque stations it has been our lot to see. Fort Cumberland stands first; it is not in itself a town of any importance or containing many good buildings, but sur- rounded as it is by mountains covered witlnbeau- tiful foliage, and its stream winding through the vale, it forms a whole worthy the pencil of a master: at the distance of about six miles are some natural curiosities of rock, cave, and water- fall, which, owing to the lateness of the season, I did not chuse to lose a day in viewing though invited to it by the respectable old Patriarch of 'fSW^^ MARYLAND, 151 the settlement, who in his ninetieth year yet of- fered to walk and accompany us to the scene. The reader will be mistaken if, from what has been said of good roads and fine weather, he sup- poses we meet with nothing else ; from a few miles off Wheeling until this day or two, the air has been filled Avith what in England would be thought a thick fog, — here they say it is smoke arising from burning barrens and prairies which are year- ly at this time set on fire ; indeed we have lately passed near enough to woodland on fire to see the flames and to hear the crackling of the tim- ber ; to our eyes a melancholy sight, accustomed as they have been to value and admire the forest growth. This brings to remembrance what has been told me of the great danger, and of lives lost in the Prairie country, from the custom of setting fire to the long grass in order to obtain a fine beautiful herbage, which, in a few weeks after succeeds it : the devouring element assisted by the wind advances so quickly that the speed of a horse has sometimes proved unavailing. The effect upon the long rushy grass as the fire reaches it, is frightfully grand ; the heat first elevates and then throws it forward like waves, thus crossing the country at a rate inconceivably rapid ; — in- stances have occurred of houses, cattle, and people suddenly falling a sacrifice to this rash 152 MARYLAND. method of clearing the ground : the way to avoid such a catastrophe, the neglect of which occasion- ed to Mr. Flower the loss of some stacks, isto mow the herbage to a sufficient distance round the premises. Nor is this danger to be apprehended only in the Prairie country. An emigrant, crossing the mountains some few years ago, wrote thus back to his alarmed friends, *' the fire is before and behind me, I dare neither go forward nor return, and what will become of me I know not : " as his letter came safe we will hope he escaped. Within this week a considerable number of waggons laden with goods and people have passed on their way to the Western country : as this Indian summer cannot last piuch longer, these parties would seem to be some of the improvident of the earth not to have moved earlier to their destination. November ISth. The journey to-day, though over high hills and tremendous rocky ways, has been one of the pleasantest drives we have ex- perienced : the clouds were just sufficiently broken to throw as they fiew, endless and varied light and shade over the most beautiful and extensive views ; rocks of various forms presented their rugged surfaces amongst the thick growing Pines and Oaks which, though small and stunted com- MARYLAND. 153 pared to those in the Western country, are not on that account the less picturesque ; and though the land is also equally inferior, yet such scenery, healthy air, and good water, must I conceive render Maryland a desirable residence to the man of refinement and property, in preference to any part that I have seen. I4th. A day more beautiful never opened or continued throughout. The national road not being finished we had twelve miles of the old track yet to pass, over rocks and gullies. Maryland is a country of high narrow ridges, much rock, and but little land of prime quality;- the timber, chiefly pine and oak, is small, — the rock which on this route everywhere abounds, is much of it strongly impregnated with iron ; there is also much of it limestone and granite. Ridge after ridge we passed, rewarded by many an ex- tensive and beautiful view, until at length after an hour's toil up Sidling Hill we entered upon the new road and bowled along down to the small town of Hancock near the Potomac, skirting that beautiful river to Fredericktown. I8tk. Fredericktown stands in a good situa- tion, having a fine view of the ridges of hills immediately west of it. The place is about half the size of Lexington (Kentucky) : the inhabit- ants seem to be rich, having erected many good 154 FREDERICKTOWN. buildings both public and private, the latter very tastefully and expensively furnished. The Court- house, a handsome building, stands in a square which is yet to be gravelled ; on one side we re- marked a lofty shed under which were hung an enormous pair of scales, seemingly typical of the purposes to which the central building is devoted. Churches are plentiful, nine in number and some of them well built. Talbot's tavern excellent and good attendance, but charges, as they are every where on this road, very high. This is a Slave State ; an institution hateful to ^English ears ; yet I will observe again that after travelling through three slave States, I am obliged to go back to theory to raise any abhorence of it : not once during the journey did I witness an in- stance ol cruel treatment, nor could I discover anything to excite commiseration in the faces or gait of the people of colour^they walk, talk, and appear at least as independent as their masters ; in animal spirits they have greatly the advantage : doubtless there may be instances of cruelty, but I am inclined to think that such are of rare occur- rence, and this for other reasons, as before remark- ed, besides those of humanity. Upon the ques- tion " What is the proper place of the Black in the order of creation?" (a subject which, after so much has been said on both sides, yet remains BALTIMORE. 155 ia dispute,) the tendency of the above observa- tions may seem to place him subordinate to the white — the next link in that chain of gradation, almost imperceptible to us, which nature exhibits throughout all her works : yet is the man of colour in general orderly in his conduct under the every- day duties of life, and also instances are not want- ing of superior abilities among them, though they have not had perhaps fair-play shewn them in this respect. I may have occasion to observe more hereafter on this subject, meanwhile let it con- sole the philanthropist, that if the black is not in his proper place, yet he possesses comforts, and appears very contented. I9th. At Baltimore. The view is fine from an eminence about half a mile from the town, nor are you disappointed on entering the city ; though not so large, it is yet the most pleasing by far of the three eastern ports we have visited : whether the beauty and taste, the variety and neatness of the buildings, both public and private be considered, or the plan and situation — the whole is indeed strikingly interesting. A beauti- ful marble column is in part finished, a national monument to the memory of those who fell in the battle at North Point ; not far from this is in progress a superb Catholic cathedral, and close to it stands a Unitarian church, an edifice not sur- 156 BURIALS. passed in beauty by any in the city. Besides these there are a variety of churches and other public buildings : one of the most prominent the College of Physicians, a very heavy combination, and not rendered the more pleasant by, we will hope, the inappropriate neighbourhood of a burial ground. On the whole the traveller cannot but be pleased with a view of Baltimore and the State of which it is the chief town. On leaving Baltimore about half a mile, a large burial ground presents itself on the road side : the Americans inclose these places with little or no fence, and very frequently bury their dead with little or no ceremony ; — as we passed this ground a man within it was carrying a child's cof- fin under his arm, which he was going to inter apparently by himself. — Mr. Birkbeck mentions the summary method in the western country of felling a tree across the spot where they inhume a body : but the tree had sometimes been re- moved, and we frequently drove over hillocks in the wilderness under which lay the bones of the departed. The road now led along the western edge of the grand bay of Chesapeak, of which we caught frequent and delightful views — here indeed may America justly pride herself; her bays and rivers stretching to a great distance from the coast — ^. itAVRE DE GRACE. 157 surely nothing in nature can exceed for grandeur or utility. Havre de Grace at the mouth of the Susquehannah is a small place, but beautifully and healthfully situated : it was burned by us during the last war, they say upon very small provocation, which has given a blow to the little prosperity it enjoyed ; and a bridge now building at a short distance up the river, by rendering the ferry useless and turning the present road, will further hurt it. One of the greatest dainties, the canvas-back duck, is here obtained in great num- bers and sent to Philadelphia and Baltimore mar- kets ; though this was the season for them, we were not so fortunate as to feast upon the deli- cacy. The Susquehannah is navigable for large vessels to the bridge, and for small craft, I was informed, for near five hundred miles up the country. The tavern at Havre de Grace is far better than that on the opposite shore ; we had good beds and attendance. The ferry, about a mile wide, is well managed ; on landing, we drove on through Elkton, Christiana, and Newport to Wilmington, a large town near the Delaware, and a place of some trade : the State Bank is a good building. At night reached Chester ; the first inn was quite full and the next nearly so, which appeared very unaccountable ; but on enquiry learned that it is 158 SUMMARY REMARKS. the chief retiring place for Debtors, where in about five weeks residence they get cleared of the Dun disease and come out themselves again. 23d. A beautiful dav: breakfasted near the small town of Darby, and shortly after once again entered Philadelphia, after an absence of four months, and a journey of above two thousand five hundred miles performed in good health and M'ith much interest throuohout. I now take leave of the Western country of the I'nitcd States ; and although the reader may per- haps be enabled to gather from the foregoing ob- rservations sufficient whereon to judge for himself, yet it may be proper to sum up that which I have to say upon it ; and it may be done in a few words: — First addressing all those \Vho are pos- sessed of capital, I will state, that if they are con- tent to undero-o for their own lives many difficul- ties, and to make a certain sacrifice of many of the little comforts they can possess and have been used to enjoy at a moderate cost in England, they ■ may then for a trifling sum establish their poste^ rity upon a good estate in America, which here- after may place the7n in affluence ; and this may be accomplished at a distance far short of the Prairies of Illinois ; — but let them be again re- .SUMMARY REMARKS. 159 tiiinded that it must be done at some risk, much trouble, and £l certain sacrifice of many of their own comforts : so much for those who look for^ ward. As to immediate prospects, taking the different ranks, professions, and businesses in turn^ I must first assure the gentleman and the idle man that they have no busbiCHs in any part of the terri- tory. The farmer who has been accustomed to the regular markets, the ' constant labourers, and the comforts of an English hearth, will here find the reverse of all these and more ; not so bad perhaps in the country nearest to the eastern cities as in the west, where labour to manage more than a small portion of his land is not to be had ; and if it could, there is either no market, or it is so distant that the small price he can obtain for his grain renders it little worth growing ; whilst this very distance from market which thus acts against him, also renders the price of all groceries at least double that which it is in the Eastern States.* For professional men I saw no opening, unless it may be for dissenting teachers in religion. — ■ There are many young physicians spread about the country who keep taverns for their support ; as to lawyers, there are enough for the population. * Some farmers, on this account, feed their cattle with corn, and thus putting it upon legs send them to the Eastern mar- kets ; we met many large droves of these cattle. 160 SUMMARY REMARKS; For manufacturers there may perhaps be found some employ : but it is principally the young poor man who can turn his hand to anything — the stout agricultural labourer, for whom this country is at present calculated ; here such men may, with reasonable labour and activity, in a short time realise a little property, and after living in comparative plenty and comfort, leave their families to enjoy the same with independ- ence. It is emphatically the country for the poor man ; but he must not go thither, as many have done, expecting no difficulties to be encoun- tered, no privations to be endured ; nor must he be disheartened at finding a cool reception, and work not immediately offered on his arrival at the Eastern ports ; — he must push forward westward without idly stopping to spend his money and waste his time ; work his way if money runs short (he may at all places get food at least for his services,) until he arrives at a place where hands are wanted and good wages are offer- ed for them ; he has then a fair and near prospect of comfort, taking care only to be industrious, fru- gal, and especially to avoid habits of drinking, a vice the most difficult to withstand where the spirits of the country are to be obtained for half a crown the gallon. There are pe<>ple with us in England vrho object WIXTER AT PHILADELPHIA. IGl to giving the poor man any facility of emigration, and who are disposed to condemn prospects held out to him of improving his present condition by a change of country ; I shall not stop to argue with such narrow policy and truly anti- christian reasoners more than to say, that I will leave them to point out, for I cannot, even in a politi- cal point of view, any loss to a country arising from the emigration of a redundant population. A WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. Though a winter passage across the Atlantic may be quick it is almost always unpleasant; this thought, aided by a wish to see a little more of the climate and people ere I should bid to both farewell, determined me to stay till spring. The following notes and reflections are the fruit of the protracted residence, and they are presented to the reader nearly as they stand in my journal : in their nature they must be desultory, and by essavins: to render them more connected, the lit- tie interest they may possess might be made yet less. December 6th. A beautiful day, even warm, as indeed the mid-day has liitherto been, yet the M 16'2 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. thermometer in an east room window opened at early morning stood at 33®. Rode with D***** to the view on the Schiiyl-* kil called the " Flat Rock." On the way called at Mr. Fletcher's screw factory, — Mr. F. took pains to explain to us the machiner}', though after all we best understood the result; one of the machines cut the iron rod into proper lengths and turned out seven screws complete per minute ; with only the attendance of a boy, it forms thirty- five gross per day. Two miles more partly along the bank of the river, and amongst its beautiful scenery, brought us to the Flat Rock, and we crossed by an inclosed wood bridge. One of the dams which have been already mentioned is here formed, and there is a canal on one side with locks for the passage of vessels ;— the broad cas- cade of the silvery waters sparkling in the sun over the dam, and the high, broken, and wooded banks of the river, presented a scene, even with- out the aid of foliage, enchanting. We returned by the old Lancaster road, .making a pleasant ride of about twenty miles. In the evening called with D**** on Mr. H. This gentleman's life affords an instance of successful industry, by no means uncommon in this country of enterprise and speculation ; it is- also interwoven with some extraordinary incidents. At setting out in life'?- WIXTEIl AT PHILADELPHIA. 1G3 career he and a brother laid out their several }3ortions in goods such as they judged best for the market, and with them sailed for this country : the venture |3roved fortunate; the goods were quidkly sold to great profit, and his brother again set sail for England to purchase more with the produce. But here a cruel disappointment await- ed Mr. H., for his relative instead of pursuing the intentions of his vovacje, enoat^ed on his arrival in Europe in other speculations, lost the whole of the money> and his anxious partner in America, when riches seemed already to be within his graspj received notice of his brother's misconduct, and found himself suddenly reduced to his last shilling, in a foreign land, and without a friend ! Young and active, however, his mind bore up against poverty, and, though at the age now of three and twenty, he took the resolution to bind himself apprentice to a trade of which he already knew a little ; at this he served his time ; by steadiness and application perfected himself in the business ; then set. up for himself in prosperous times, and rapidly made a handsome income, which he now comfortably enjoys. Let us here venture reverentially to trace the moral justice of Providence in the life of the brother, who, though enterprising and at one period apparently prosperous, was reduced by successive losses ; — M 2 AT PHILADtLPHIA. WHieF: : . - ' : A ' t sere- « nl 3rears ; — beir . : -i . 2 set at hberty he got togediersafickr : ~ irv to tteigbt a vessel at one cf die Miull Ki ii i ports c^* that conntiy, but wluch in ooBims^ Ttrand from tiienGe lor Engiaiid was lost: «Md lumself ako sood aftia- poisked at sea. 9tiL Just retaned from a shootiiig excursion in J^sev. We saw pheasants, paitzidges, and ndbfaitsv bwt few vi anr of diese were shot : the i-an pttr»«»^ seens faatf grouse, the par- t : 1 . 1 rail qnaiL and the rabbit half hare. Buf- d the Abbe Raynal have both remarked = laanaih of this coBtnieiit are larger tkan E4iix>pe, but the fox, pheasant, paitridge ^ fn^ woodcoek are all certainly mnch smaller. — Tlie Jeiser hones are exeellcnt hai^Bies, for a pair frf^them drew ns in a Inmbering' vduiJe eigiiritii^fes with ease in about an hour dons' a heavy ^aIldy road . We hare been told there are no taxes in Ame- liea, or that they are £rw and light : I ins^t titerefoie a copy of a tax paper handed to me by '9. gentleman of Philadelphia. T - liiVS^ V- \ M ^™^ Waa». , i j~-i— «= M» f. « vi J*l n \»\ :?-; 4 4 4 ! *- Does Mr. ***** T do are to the C. - ■rise •C \m. tr^ — Z 9i ^*~'i r^T- OfA yicAaus e or a good log 166 A^^INTER AT PHILADELPHIA. and the owner, by way of entering into convert sation with him, observed that he had erected a comfortable dwelling there ; to which the oiher assented. — " But, my friend, I am told that you and several more have built here without any title to the land, and the owner is coming to remove you." The man, who had his rifle in his hand, immediately pointing to a pig at a distance took aim and shot it dead ; then turning to the alarmed proprietor told him, that if the owner should ever come to disturb him he would serve him as he had served that pig. Sunday 12th. In the morning attended the episcopal church, a building handsomely decorat- ed withinside : near the pulpit, which was placed within the altar, sat a Bishop in his lawn sleeves, &c. supported in a chair of state of carved wood, the mitre surmounting the back ; — he took no part in the service, but I understood he would officiate in the ceremony of admission to a young minister. In the middle of the service, otherwise conducted with decency, a man with a money box came into every pew to levy contributions fof the support of the church. In the evening went to the Presbyterian church, where we heard much singing. Here a purse at the end of a long stick was thrust into every pew for contribu- tions : this mode of raising funds for whatever purpose is an abomination. WINTER AT PHILADEtPIIIA. 167 Marriage is here a civil contract, though some parties have the ceremony read by a minister ; in general they may and do go before the Mayor, a Justice, or as they are called here a 'Squire, and declaring their resolution to take each other for man and wife, the contract is binding. As to re- gisters I understand they are very inaccurately kept, if at all in many places, of either marriages, christenings, or burials, whi^h pivist QCcasioi> most profitable confusion for the lawyers. Went with ***** to one of the many billiard tables in this city ; the game usually played is the four balls, two red and two white. This seemed to me a very childish play and well suiting the table-keeper, as from the facility of cannoning the game is soon finished. Returning home iny com-? panion proposed to dive intq one of the Oyster Cellars, to which agreeing we vanished in a trice, and entering the infernal abode, the heat of which was at least that of a hot-house, we found a rooni well lighted and boxes arranged like our coifee^ houses, except that the partitions were carried to the ceiling and the addition of curtains in front.— We supped well upon stewed oysters brought upon a chaffing dish, and a sallad of finely shredded raw cabbage and celery, which I found very pa- latable ; for these with beer we paid half a dollar, and again rose to encounter the keen air of e^ 168 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. frosty night. It is I apprehend these Constant sudden changes of temperature, and not seve- rity of climate, which destroy the constitutions of many here, and render the use of flannel next the skin indispensable. No one will again say that this country is free from paupers when he learns that there are sub- scriptions for the support of public soup establish- ments, which find plenty of employment through- out the winter. 'Tis true the poor here seem to be more fastidious than with us, for a pauper in my hearing the other day objected to some good cold meat offered to her, because it was too cold for her stomach, and said she would prefer some money if the giver pleased. Sunday 26th. Went with ***** to a Roman Catholic church : the altar very handsome, but the architecture and decorations more calculated for a temple dedicated to Venus, than for the sancity of a christian church. Between the pil- lars of Corinthian order which supported the altar was a view of the Holy City and the Temple, well painted in distemper, and before this full as large as life the Crucifixion, the first view of which sight of horror, must make a sickening impression; but its constant presence- deadens the feelings, and renders devotion grounded upon it a mere ceremony, as the " nods and becks and wreath- WINTER AT PFIILADELPHIA. 169 fid smiles " between acquaintances coming in during the prayers plainly proved. The priest on his entrance, being finely enrobed in a scarlet velvet and vsrorked muslin petticoat, commenced his operations by a very hearty and plentiful use of his pocket handkerchief, which ** I thought to myself" might as well have been done before his entree : he then with a voice like a bull-frog be- gan prayers, but after some progress turned short round from the altar to the congregation and in very familiar language said he was too hoarse to preach, but would, as I understood, give them more prayers instead. He again during prayers took sudden occasion to remind them of some particular day in the ensuing week, and then finished the orifeons ; — the priest's voice was very pleasingly relieved by the singing from the organ- loft, it was fine and impressive. The ceremony of the purse was here too gone through and then we departed, the organ playing very well but not very apropos "Adestejideles''' An affair occurred last week at New York which caused a considerable sensation, — a young man in a fit of angry malice stabbed another in the open street with a concealed cane dirk. He fled, but was pursued and taken : when brought before the magistrates twenty thousand dollars were offered as bail for his appearance, which 170 WINIER AT PHILADELPHIA. has not been in this case accepted ; though I am told it is not at all uncommon here to take bail in cases of murder, or rather manslaughter to speak technically. No wonder then that duels of that assassin character are of so frequent oc- currence. It is common to practise beforehand on giving or receiving a challenge, and 1 believe rifle-barrelled pistols have been used ; if after this a man is admitted to bail, let the assassin go free. 31st. After a long continuance of fine mild weather, in the mid-dav sometimes even hot, winter comes clothed in his thickest fleecy cover- ing, ushered in by as fine, and gentle a rain as ever fell in autumn ; the snow is already a foot deep, and sleds, or as they are called here sleighs, are moving in all directions. These carriages are not only applied to the useful purposes of life at this season, but they also afford an amusement much indulged in by all who can afford it ; — ^there are sleighs of various sizes drawn by from one tp four horses, and seme of these carriages are of a form elegant enough, and handsomely covered within by the rich furry skins of the Bear and Bufl^alo ; the horses M^ear belts of bells rovmd their necks and bodies, and also some at their ears ; this, which is a legal regulation intended to give notice of tlieir approach, and thus to prevent accidentia,. ViNTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 171 is rendered an affair of ornament to delight the eye and the ear, the bells being nicely assorted to harmonize, and affixed to handsome leather belts. The fun and frolic consists in large parties forming a cavalcade of these sleighs to some place of pub- lic resort at a distance, where when arrived, the dance is struck up, hot wines are drunk as a refreshment, and in the night, after a good supper, wrapped in furs and huddled together, they drive helter skelter home not * 'alone by the light of the moon." Americans make amends for the want of origi- nality of invention by a quick perception and adoption of whatever is useful in other nations ; without owning that they dx) so, they servilely copy us in every thing ; for examples among so many. Savings Banks are adopted to great extent. Lotteries are of as frequent occurrence as with us ; schemes are for ever publishing, and without any other difference than the substitution of dol- lars for our pounds ; head prize, 20,000 dollars, second 10,000, and so on down to 10 and 5. The state of pauperism has even obliged them to adopt the before-mentioned soup institutions, which are now in daily action at each quarter of the city, besides other places where bread, and at some, clothing, is given away to proper objects of the charity; many of whom they say are Emigrants 172 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. out of employ.* The newspapers indeed are full of advertisements for employ, and societies are established by Englishmen to relieve and forward poor emigrants to where their services may be wanted ; but I am informed by a subscriber that the applications to them for working hands are just now but few : work would be plentiful, but money is wanting, meanwhile Penitentiaries and prisons and poor-houses are full ! This does not form an inviting picture to the emigrant. Writers on the United States have too much said the thin^ which is not, and too little the thing which is ; consequently I entered the country with impressions which have almost all been totally changed by actual observation. We have been told that suits at law are here quickly heard and as quickly determined : walking the other day in Philadelphia with a gentleman, he pointed to some buildings we were passing, and surprised me by observing that he had for many years been dis- puting at law the possession of them. My land- lady too is engaged in a law- suit of many years standing, and of which she knows not the proba- ble termination. Whether these evils are some for which they may thank our administration is * I believe the Quakers are entitled to the chief merit of pro- tnoHng these charitable institutions, and I have before been silent wheie I should have given them the meed of praise. WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 173 not here worth enquirmg, as a wise nation should have remedied them when it formed for itself a Constitution ; but in this and many other instan- ces they still suffer under many of the evils of which we complain. In a statement of grievances drawn up by a Grand Jury at a late county Assize in Pensilva- nia, it is complained that improper persons are put into the commission of the peace, and of the improper conduct of such in their magistracy : it also contains a strong remonstrance against the practice in prisons of putting the tried and un- tried culprits together: the bringing before the Grand Jury causes of a petty nature, and which therefore should have been tried in inferior courts, is also objected to. The militia laws here bear hard upon the Fo- reigner, towards whom they are a vexatious tax, A residence in the country of, I believe, only six months renders him liable to be called out, and enrolled, or to pay a fine for absence ; yet were a war to take place with tlie government to which an enrolled stranger is subject, he is sent up the country, instead of accepting of his military services ; as it happened to the English who were resident here during the last war, to the great de- triment of their affairs. The foreigner of course generally submits to pay the fine rather than be 174 1\^iXTElfl AT l>HlLADELPnil. subject to the demand of a military dut^z so unjiisl towards him ; but that the practice of procuring substitutes, should be gaining ground among the citizens themselves, proves pretty clearly a falU ing off from the republican spirit. I have some- where met with the remark that the Athenians were so wholly devoted to public life that they neglected the private virtues : the moderns on the contrary, and the remark may be applicable equally elsewhere as here, may be said to neg- lect their public interests in a constant attention to their private affairs ; when this is the case,- parties may hold intemperate language, journal- ists may snarl at each other, but all will not pre- serve the liberties of a people who have ceased to be true to themselves, when, from whatever cause, they shall hold back from their public duties, more especially those which are military ; they then soon sink into effeminacy, lose that manliness of character which such exercises would give them, and becoming indifferent to all else but sordid gain, let their liberties sooner or later become the sacrifice to despotism. A militia may not go through its evolutions so quick and exact as a standing army — the latter is also a fine spectacle on a field-day, when the sun shines — it is likewise,, it must be confessed, very enticing to indolence to be able to sit at home and nurse " its dainty WINTER AT T^IIILADELPHIA. 175 sympathies " while the army is abroad fighting its battles ; but the Republic that would long preserve its freedom, that would truly enjoy the shade of its own vine and fig-tree^ must keep the sword belted to its own side ; must know how to use it, and submit with chearfulness and energy to its military duties. A standing army and dis- armed population is t\\h awful lever wherewith despotism and crookec/ policy have everywhere overturned the temple of liberty. But whither is fancy leadinj^ me to wander ? forgetful that I am where true liberty is unknown^ or where the Goddess has only deigned to shed the rays of her intelligence on the favoured head of a Washington, a Franklin and a few others ; while a spirit totally irreconcileable with the noble> disinterested, high minded, true republican per- vades each bosom — money — gain — sordid gain is the predominant, almost the sole passion; scarcely leaving room for vanity; which shews itself not only in a firm belief and modest asser- tion that they alone among the nations of the earth hold the palm in Arts, Arms, and Science, but also in the important object of decorating the per- son. Reader — know, that the tailor, hatter, boot- maker, here give to our modern Republican his rank ; and by the cut of his habiliments is known the circle in which he movesj and in which he 176 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. must continue to move. As unbending an order of aristocracy exists here as in any old court of Europe; and if an unfortunate individual is known ever to have appeared in an inferior circle, the ostracism banishes him for ever from the double refined society of this upper order of store keepers. Jmmarij 31st, 1820. Went last evening to attend service at the African Church : a charity sermon was preached and the whole very de- cently conducted. Contemplating however the sable countenances around us, the observation that the black forms a grade just below the white again occurred ; 'tis true the former seems capable of all the common mental exertions, so nearly equal with the white man that it must be confess- ed he treads close upon his heels, yet notwith- standing, perhaps the result of a close examin- ation and comparison of their mental faculties might shew as much difference between them as may be observed in the features of the counten- ance. On whichever side the truth of the ques- tion may lie, the general opinion in those States which have formally and publicly called the men of colour ** Men and Brothers" is pretty clearly shewn in various ways — separate churches — civil disabilities, besides such common advertisements in the daily papers as the following; which I copy from the Aurora of Friday, 25th March, 1820:— "WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 377 « BAKER'S "EXCHANGE AND INTELLIGENCE-OFFICE. " For SALE :— A black girl 20 years old, and 8 to serve. Ditto 17 and 11 ditto. Ditto 13 and 15 ditto, from the country, Ditto 18 and 10 ditto. Ditto 13 and 15 ditto. A black boy 10 and 15 ditto, &c. &r. To BIND :— White boys 11, 12, 13, &c. years of age. White girls 8, 11, 12, &c." Thus in free Pensilvania are blacks positively sold for a limited period, and though the law does not allow the purchaser the power of life and death over this sort of slave, yet to all other in- tents and purposes he is in as complete subjection as any slave in Virginia or Kentucky. We have lately attended service at the churches of the Anabaptists, the Swedenborgians, &c. — • Contemplating the various sects of religion in the United States, men will be pleased or otherwise, according to their private sentiments, to see the people on a Sunday quietly moving to the places of worship belonging to their several persuasions, without the least symptom of disrespect or ran- corous spirit towards each other; thus forming an exception to the rest of the globe. — Whether such a state of religion will long continue, or whether, professing the same end (happiness here- 178 WI^'TER AT PHILADELPHIA. after,) they may at length unite in the same means, one form of religion, time only will de- monstrate : there are indeed people who seem to be of opinion that it will end in no religion at all ; and I must confess thus much, that though theoretically it is certainly pleasing to contem- plate religion free from state trammels, and each man walking before his God as his unbiassed con- science shall dictate, yet, as religion ought to in- fluence men's conduct in the world, and *' a tree is known by its fruit," it would be satisfactory to perceive, as the result of such religious liberty, more probity in the every day dealings between man and man than I have witnessed in the United States. While they talk of the moral and religi- ous principle ; of true liberty, honesty, &c. their actions belie their words, and make them appear a nation of unprincipled atheists ; by the bye, a de- scription of people perhaps more general over the world than we might be inclined to allow ; peo- ple, who outwardly profess belief in a Creator and future Judge of our actions, yet whose daily acts contradict their professions. But to return to Ame- rica, where integrity is at so low an ebb at present, that the nearest relative or friend can scarcely be safely trusted. One instance of baseness and in- gratitude, among the many, I will relate. A man some time ago became insolvent — retired for the WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 179 usual period of five or six weeks, during which time he obtained signatures of release from his creditors, and came out whitewashed : one would naturally suppose that at least towards these men he would feel a debt of gratitude as well as of money due, and he had soon an opportunity of shewing it ; for one of them, to whom he had been most indebted, in his turn got into difficul- ties, — and what followed — the scoundrel seized the occasion by the help of chicanery to turn his former creditor into the street and sold up his goods ! Can either a religious or moral principle prevail where such things are commonly perpetrat- ed ? — Can the laws be good ? — Can the govern- ment be efficient? Can a country last where such things pass as clever strokes of practice, and the most successful swindler is praised as the smartest fellow ? " Such things are ;" and while they are, they furnish ground for such philippics as the follow- ing ; which I will insert, not because any calm un- prejudiced person or one not icriting for "prefer- ment can agree with the pen of gall, but in the hope that America aroused at such anathemas, may exert her better self, give vigour to her laws, and blot out these foul deeds from the page of he history. Speaking of the principle of honour, the writer expresses himself thus : — '* Honour alone N 2 180 WINTER AT PHILADELPAIA. will indeed never make a great nation, but it will always preserve it from dwindling down intQ thorough contempt. It has done much more for France than ever virtue did. Without this semi- heroic principle she would have been detestable indeed. I say not that she was ever anything very desirable to boast of with it. America in this respect stands insulated from all the world. She has neither a spark of true magnanimity about her, nor any grace or colouring of it. She is equally destitute of honesty and honour, of sub- stance and semblance. She set off without an established religion, and has now pretty well pre- pared herself for needing none." In another place he writes thus, " there is no saying what this same America may turn out in the lapse of ages, or how far that unprincipled Oligarchy may extend her growing plagues into futurity, which, at present, exhibits the young serpents crawling out of their beds of venom in every direction where the heavens may smile, or the air freshly blow upon them, &c."* Such sentiments as these, from a man profess- ing himself a minister of *' the meek and lowly Jesus," are little calculated to fascinate and render * Reflections upon the Nature and tendency of the present Spirit of the Times, l^y Rev. George Burges, B. A. 1820. WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 181 any people the more inclined to a church estab- lishment. Febj^uary 3(1. What transitions of temperature ! • — the frost yesterday was severe ; the Schuylkill and even the Delaware frozen over, and skating the order of the day ; the thermometer at ten degrees below freezing : — last night a heavy mild rain has fallen, and at mid-day now the thermo- meter is at 40*^. HORRIBLE EXECUTION! I shall copy the account without comment ; it needs none. Perpetrated among a people who call themselves christians, and who boast of being ^' the most free, the most enlightened, the most humane people on earth." "Augusta, (Georgia,) Feb. 1, a. d. 1820. " On Friday last, two negro men, named Ephiaira and Sam, were executed in conformity to their sentence, for the murder of iheir master, Mr. Thomas Handcock, of Edgefield district, S. C. — Sam was burnt andEphiaim hung, and his head severed from his body, and publicly exposed. The circumstances attending^ the crime for which these miserable beings have suffered, were of a nature so aggravated, as imperiously demanded the terrible punishment which has been inflicted upon them." [They had shot their owner while he slept.] 182 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. *' The burning of malefactors is a punishment only resorted to when absolute necessity demands a signal example. It must be a horrid and appaling sight to see a human being consigned to the flames — let even fancy picture the scene — the pile — the stake the victim, and the mind sickens and sinks under the oppres- sion of its own feelings,— what then must be the dreadful reality ! From some of the spectators we learn, that it was a scene which transfixed in breathless horror almost every one who wit- nessed it. As the flames approached him, the piercing shriek of the unfortunate victim struck upon the heart with a fearful, painful vibration, — but when the devouring element seized upon his body all was hushed : yet the cry of agony still thrilled in the ear, and an involuntary and sympathetic shudder ran through the crowd." In consequence of the above, the following- letter was addressed to tlic editor of the news- paper. *' To Z. Poulson, *' A Philadelphian in thy paper says, the burning of malefactors is a punishment never before resorted to in this country, — 1 wish the fact were so, but in the year 1800, the following was published, viz. " 'Charlston, December 4, 1800. *' 'Yesterday was brought \o trial, before Justices Johnson and Glover, Ben and Smart, two negro slaves, the property of Mr. Gregmiles, for the murder of Wm. Maxwell, ship carpenter. — The Magistrates and Freeholders were unanimous in bringing them in guilty : and further, from the circumstances of aggra- vation, that the punishment should be severe. They were ac- cordingly sentenced— Ben to be carried between the hours of ten WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA 183 and twelve this day, outside the tobacco inspection, and there to suffer death by being burned alive ; the other, Smart, to be car- ried to the place where the murder was committed, between the hours of ten and four, and there to suffer the like punishment on Friday the 5th instant.' "* That such scenes have at some period disgrac- ed the annals of most nations it must be acknow- ledged ; for which even a faint shadow of excuse may be found in the madness of fanaticism : that they are now sanctioned by cold blooded senten- ces from a misnamed bench of justice, proves this new continent to be some centuries behind in ci- vilization ; a fact corroborated by several others, amongst the most glaring of which are the per- petuation of the institution of slavery, and the fre- quency and mode of conducting duel combat. The first of these condemning facts has just been decided, after much and violent debate in both houses of Congress ; and only by the small majority of four, a majority which in England would not carry a question, the New State of Missourie is admitted into union with the free r^epubUc without any restriction as to slaves ! In the course of the discussion, the State of Virginia has gone so far as to throw out hints hostile, should the question be decided otherwise than it has : and in this it is understood she would have * The execution of the above sentence took place accordingly. 184 WINTER AT PPIILADELPHIA. been supported by the other Slave States all deep- ly interested in the event ; as, had the abolition party prevailed, the next measure would have been an attempt at general emancipation, which, if carried, would have been a death blow to the paramount influence which Virginia now possess- es in the general government, owing to her extent of territory and population, and to the law which gives to each slave-holder, besides his own vote, one for every five negroes he has. These causes have hitherto enabled Virginia successively to in- fluence the choice of a President of the United States. Another reason given by the politicians here why the last mentioned State with Kentucky, and some others, may be careless of maintaining the union is, that a debt of some magnitude is due from them to the general Government for lands unpaid for, taxes, &c., and which, being un- able or rather unwilling to pay, they would can- cel by a war. The political and civil interests of the Slave States also frequently clash with, or are in direct opposition to those which are called Free. Another division of this immense country con- templated as probable, is into eastern and western Governments, the Alleghany chain of mountains to form the mutual grand barrier; and indeed I found the subject pretty generally discussed in WINTER AT PHIIADELPHIA. 185 the western country, the inhabitants of which seemed well disposed to the measure. On the subject of Duel combat mentioned above 1 would add a few words, partly of general appli- cation, to the sentiments of so many already de- livered. Though the angry passions of some, and the foolish conduct of others will perhaps continue to give cause for and never entirely banish the ne- cessity of appeal to arms ; yet will all sensible men concur in the opinion that it ought to be the last resort of injured honour, the ultimate remedy to repel insult. As real christians, we should refuse it altogether ; but taking the world as it is (and that is very far indeed from true Christiani- ty), the combat ought to be regarded as a serious appeal to heaven, alone justifiable when human laws have failed to do us right — when, however we may as a christian forgive the offender, we yet cannot keep our honour and overlook the of- fence : — in such situations, and fortunately such are very rare, a man has no alternative — he must trust his cause to mortal arbitrement : but to rush to the combat for any cause short of this is not true courage, for this is alone consistent with right conduct ; — it is irreligious, for religion for- bids it — it is immoral, for it tends to banish virtue and disorganize society; — it is barbarous, for it belongs to the wild beast of the forest; and the 186 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA people who have recourse to the combat on frivo- lous occasions cannot therefore be placed lower upon the scale of humanity. If then these senti- ments be correct, what are we to think of those who can invite each other to the field upon a dis- pute about their tailor's bill, or the best mode of peeling a sausage^ with other equally important occasions of meeting among these mockeries of humanity. From the contemplation of such, let us turn to behold the more serious mockery of all that is right, in the chief Magistrate of a nation, and a considerable part of a nation's council, publicly parading the funeral of a favourite naval officer, who fell — not nobly fighting his country's battles, but pointing at a murderous distance, with vindictive malice, the weapon at the breast of his brother officer ; on account of an affair too, with which he had no concern, and for which even his own friends condemned his interference ! He fell ; and his antagonist, who appears to have attempted all which an honourable man could do to avoid the meeting, remains. After what has been said, it will not surprise the reader that a store-keeper should put out a board to advertise the passenger that he has *' ten cases of Duelling Pistols on sale ;" though it might to a reflecling mind be little less hurt- ful to society than if he had off^ered ten cases of WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 187 picklock keys, or some neat sets of combustibles for firing houses or blowing up the inhabitants. Went to visit the Dock-yard and to view a 74 upon the stocks ; within the hull of which it is said one of our 100 gun ships might be placed ; and in effect she is framed to carry as many guns at least, and those of a large size. The plan of having- all the guns of the same size appears to be good in more respects than one ; it prevents mistckes in loading during action, as the same quantity of powder will be required for each gun : — 32 pounders are cast here I understood for the servce generally. The Americans seem alive to navd enterprise, and no doubt can be entertained of taeir becoming very powerful, if they avoid in- ternal divisions and cordially join in effecting it. It will not be denied that they have on several occasions at sea behaved gallantly ; but the mere trick of rating ships of war below their real force, by which they have gained some few advantages, will no longer succeed, and was unworthy of the adoption of a brave nation. 188 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. LECTURES ON ANATOMY. The mansion which the Government caused to be erected and presented to George Washington for his residence, and which he, always like him- self, only accepted to give it up for the public be- nefit, is now devoted to the medical and anatomi- cal sciences, and is named the University of Pen- silvania. By favour of Dr. Physic I was presented with a general ticket of admission to the anetom- ical course. On entering the Lecture room, which is spacious, it was pleasing to see in attendance about three hundred students ; it was not so pieas- ing however, to hear the impatient noise kept up by their heels and sticks in the manner of our play-house galleries, because the Dr. did not make his appearance quite so soon as expected. This is both highly indecorous and shewing a want of proper respect for a man of years and science. Dr P. ranks high in reputation, and I believe de- servedly : his salary for the college duties, which occupy his time for four months of each year, is about six thousand dollars. There are several other courses of lectures delivered here, all of which are numerously attended : at the concluding lecture of a course on medicine given by Dr. Coxe, the very indecorous conduct of the students in WINTER AT PIIILADKLPIIIA. 189 hawking, spitting, and coughing, while some few lay across the benches asleep, led me fully to ex- pect a severe reprimand, as they richly deserved, at the end of the lecture ; I was then much as- tonished to hear a short, diffident address from the Dr. concluding with thanking them for their attention ! This they applauded with as much sense and propriety as they had before coughed, hawked, and spat ; by the way, these beastly habits I am told carry off numbers of young men in early consumptions. The Dr. took occasion in speaking on the sub- ject of fermented liquors, to reprobate, and it may be too justly, the wine merchants and brewers of England for the custom of mixing deleterious in- gredients in their liquors. The practice of medicine in Philadelphia, New York, and other large towns appears to be on a a very respectable footing. Fees are high ; on ■which account perhaps it is that the operations of bleeding with the lancet, cupping, &c. are still performed by barbers, and by other ignorant people as formerly in England ; in almost every street is a sign put out* denoting that these ope- * Not long ago signs were very generally used by other trades than those of Publicans, and even now there are a few who han? them out, — Tavern signs are many of them executed in a supe- rior manner ; it is the chief encouragenieDt given to the Arts. 190 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. rations are performed within ; it may be supposed therefore that disorders of repletion are very ge- neral. Dentists are well paid : at New York I had occasion for their services, and a little French- man, who, though now in fashion as a dentist, had, I afterwards heard, previously figured in the world as marker at a billard-table and in several other characters, was recommended to me, and I sought his house : after extracting the tooth, which he performed very well, he told me among other rhodomontade that he only now practised *' pour son amusement." I therefore doubtingly requested to know if he took a fee upon such pleasant occasions, and putting a note into his hand, he retained only two dollars of it which he pocketed also " pour son amusement." A lady paid to ****** twenty-five dollars for plugging three teeth, and another was charged thirty-six dollars for having her teeth cleaned. A midwife's common fee is twenty-five dollars and frequently much more is given. Empirics too here find a field whereon to gather in a harvest : imitations of the bottles and labels of the most successful of our quack medicines are made and openly advertised for sale to the imitators. Holcroft it is, I think, who, in his ac- count of Paris mentions that boards are to be seen fixed over doors with the inscription "ici on WINTER AT rHILADELPIIIA. 191 fait les avortemens." At Philadelphia one of the same infamous race placards in large letters the corners of the principal streets with *' Obstruc- tions removed at No. — in street." February 22d. Anniversary of the birth of George Washington. I suppose it was that the people might be awakened early to pleasing thoughts on this day, that a double drum accom- panied by fifes went thumping through the city at four o'clock in the morning. Soon after day- light all was bustle and preparation. At ten a. M. we repaired to ^yashington Hall, where an ora- tion was to be delivered, in honour of the depart- ed hero and friend of his country, by a young student in the law, one of which profession is an- nually chosen for the task ; this being an oppor- tunity of becoming known, and a trial of ability, may be of much advantage to a young man. A handsome spacious room surrounded with gal- leries was appropriated for the ceremony ; the ladies above, the male auditors below. At the upper end was a raised platform for the Orator, the city magistrates, a few military officers, &c. During the arrival of the company, a band of about half a dozen wind instruments stationed in the gallery above the platform, played some airs, chiefly English, and pertinaciousl}'^ continu- ed their exertions while the city militia with 192 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. drums, and fifes blowing a different tune entered the room, and marching up, squatted down upon benches and ordered their arms between their legs. The din was horrid, and the idea of seating- the military novel. The Orator now entered and, accompanied by the public characters, ascended the platform; seats being taken, the six wind instruments in the gallery struck up the national air of ''Yankee doodle," which immediately set all the ladies nodding, jumping, and beating time, while some heavy heels below tried to accord with them. — This ^ir is surely of all national airs the most un^ fortunate ; to those of other nations we may listen with delight ; — the Swiss Ranz des Vaches — the Dutch " Orange Boven" — the Marseillois' hymn of the French and our own coronation anthem, and Rule Britannia, have all their several charac- teristics of grand, plaintive, or inspiring; but Yankee doodle! What concatenation can render it agreeable? What mental images can it con- jure up worthy to rejoice the hearts of a great nation !* Yankee doodle over, the Orator, a fine young man but of very inadequate strength of voice, * Their other national air " Hail Columbia," is intitled to uiore respect. WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 193 advanced and commenced his address, in which I was surprised to hear but little of the great cha- racter we w ere met to recal to respectful memory. It was a rapid panoramic sketch of the political situation of the several principal powers of Europe, with all of whom he found fault ; then weaving in an uncalled-for condemnation of Napoleon (a great character, let history hereafter say what it may of his errors,) he concluded with an un- qualified approbation of the men and measures at home ; not excepting the late decision of Congress on the Missouri question, which perpetuates slavery in the United States : in short, he boldly affirmed that their nation was alone the favoured one under heaven where true liberty was under- stood and enjoyed, &c. At the philippic against Napoleon, General H. L'A****d who sat near me, though he does not converse in English, shewed well that he under- stood it, by the indignant colour which rose to his face : the General was one of Buonaparte's most attached officers, and being consequently proscribed by the present French government, sought an asylum with Marshal Grouche and many more on the shores of America. Here he now resides truly a practical philosopher after the pomp and bustle of war is over ; after hav- ing borne a part in many campaigns; among o 194 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. Others that of Moscow, and enduring the horrors of the retreat, eatmg horse-flesh as a luxury, and subsisting for some time on sugar ; and lastly hav- ing been engaged at the final battle of Waterloo. He now lives a quiet domestic man with his lady SLXid infant, and employs himself in writing upon subjects connected with his profession ; upon which, as well as upon general topics, he speaks with great ability and feeling, as one who has thought much and deeply. It is with pleasure that I seize this opportunity of inserting a few words of remembrance of this worthy man : it is time that party proscriptions should cease in France, and I heartily wish he may be reinstated in rank and fortune. The address was of course received at its con- clusion with thundering applause ; the drums, fifes, and wind instruments again joined in a Dutch concert, and the audience dispersed. As we returned home I observed that all the stores were kept open ; no great proof of respect on such a day. To instance further symptoms of slavery, and perhaps a little injustice, in this free State of Pen- silvania, where all men are declared equal by the constitution, the people of colour are neither called upon to pay the poll-tax as men, nor are they allowed a vote for representatives or otherwise: WIKTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 195 yet all taxes, the payment of which give no such privileges, are exacted of them. As this subject may not be again alluded to lie re, I insert the following curious advertise- ment : it may give some insight respecting the public mind upon more subjects than one. "MISSOURI. "To Southern and Western Planters. *' For SALE ; one hundred prime Virginia-born Slaves, the pro- perty of a Planter who is contracting' the scale of his business, and does not chuse that all the produce of his land and labour should go into the pockets of manufacturers or fundholders. These Slaves will be sold all together or in families, to suit pur- chasers. Conditions, Cash, and Removal not South of the State of Georgia. The condition of their removal is for their own ac- commodation. " N. B. No proposals from any Slave Trader will be at- tended to. "The Proprietor of this property would prefer selling them all together, and would give a credit to any Planter, on receiving satisfactory [i.e. landed] security. No bank notes, bank stock, six per Cent, three per Cent, or other evidence of debt, public or private, domestic or foreign, will be received in payment; but coin or bullion will be taken at their lawful value or market price respectively. *' British or Portuguese gold or Spanish milled dollars would be preferred. o 2 196 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. *' If the above-mentioned Slaves are not disposed of at private sale before the first Monday of November next, they will be sol«3 at public auction on that day, at Lynchburg in Virginia.* " These Slaves were bred on the estate where they are now working, and are perfectly acquainted with the cultivation and curing of the best Virginia Tobacco. " Their ancestors were purchased by the ancestor of the present proprietor out of Guineamen, and they have been in the same fa- mily for several generations. " The best character can be given of them : among them are the best Blacksmiths perhaps in Virginia and several other Tradesmen, Carpenters, &c." 28tli. Visited the Playhouse— the piece repre- sented was "The Battle of Hexham ;" very humbly got up but the parts respectably filled. It \vas a full house, being a benefit night ; we sat next to the stage-box in the second row : the party who had obtained the front seats were a lady and three gentlemen, two of whom kept on their horsemen's great coats and one his hat the whole night; this custom is common here. As to the state of the stage, it is not a subject worth entering upon ; there is in fact no American stage, the players being almost wholly English. March 3d. The meat market here is plenti- fully supplied with excellent well-fed beef, good veal and mutton, though the Americans little * 1 am iafurnied that it is not an uncommon practice to sell the negioes at auction, by the lb. weight. WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 197 esteem the latter. The poultry too is well-fed and fine. In order to shew to what point of perfection feeding and grazing have reached, I present the reader with some account of the an- nual Cattle shew, prefacing it with the advertise- ment extracted from the Aurora Journal of March 3d, 1820. "SPLENDID AND EXTRAORDINARY EXHIBITION ! *'The public are respectfully informed that twent3'-lhree head of Fat Cattle, eleven Fat Sheep, and two Fat Goals, advertised to be exhibited at the Merchants' Coffee-House, by Messrs. White, Shuster, Fryburg, Drum and Miller, may be seen at B. Graves's Drove- Yard and Cattle-3Iarket ; where the public generally are respectfully invited to view this magnificent and splendid shew of fine cattle of American production: such we believe as has ne- ver been exhibited for sale, in one day, in any city in the world, at all events never surpassed ! ! 1" These animals, such as were ** never before ex- hibited in any city in the ivorld,'' 1 saw ; and can vouch at least for their being very fat ; — the cattle were of middling size, and frame pretty good, yet judging from their appearance, I should not have guessed that they possessed (to use a grazier's phrase,) '* an aptitude for laying on fat." Any particular information of the length of time they had been feeding, or of the quantity and kinds of food, was not obtained ; but I suspect that though their heads were large they had pretty 198 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. well eaten them off, (as prize cattle are some- times known to do in other parts of the world,) and that the grand principle of grazing, laying on flesh with the least expense of food, has not here been sufficiently attended to. When slaughtered, another exhibition was made of the carcases, and they all proved well, not ex- cepting those of the goats which were very fat;* — the tallow in some of the beasts weighed conside- rably more than two hundred lb. and the carcases from eighty to one hundred and thirty stone of fourteen lb. The whole sold for a quarter dol- lar (13kl.) per lb.; but previous to the sale, it was paraded about the city in one-horse carts, attended by butchers in neat handsome white frocks with insignia, and a military band of music in a cart, — a large model of a ship upon wheels, having a lad dressed as a sailor in it throwing the line, bringing up the rear. I have before had occasion to remark a want of spirit, a flatness — I know not what to call it, among the Americans upon public parades and holidays, when other nations are all life and noise : not a hat was thrown up upon this occasion among the crowd, not one hurrah, not even a smile was to be seen ; but all passed by with the quiet and order of * The skins of the goats by some speedy process had btea couverted into morocco leather and were exhibited WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 199 business : they all seemed to be calculating how much the meat would sell for, or taking in large draughts of conceit upon having the honour to at- tend the best beef in the uhole icorld ! Of the state of Agriculture, the little I saw is not worth a comment to the English farmer. The price of all machinery is so high that it precludes the general use of complex implements of hus- bandr\% and the unexhausted fertility of much of the soil, perhaps, renders the use of them less ob- vious. Clovers are grown in this State in course of cropping, and we may suppose by the follow- ing advertisement that they begin to know the value of manure. *« TO BE SOLD, *' This day a quantity of Street Dirt, in Lots to suit Purchasers.'* Of the present low price of land an instance may be given in the late purchase of two hundred acres, six miles from Philadelphia, part good graz- ing ground, and the rest of good quality, includ- ing a good and newly-erected brick house upon it ; for the whole of which the price was five thousand dollars (about £5. 7s. 6d. sterling per acre.) I believe that bargains as good, or nearly so, mav now be made. 9th. For two days past it has rained and froze as it fell; the trees, the sliips, buildings. 200 WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. &c. are all incrusted with icicles : the strongest branches of the trees are every minute giving way and falling under their loads. A ship at one of the wharfs, being neglected came down, broke her masts against the wharf and the hull has sunk. In the country the scene is brilliant and beautiful beyond description : a letter from the neighbour- hood says, " the spruce, the pine, and the cedar, are coated with transparency, their limbs bending in every fantastic shape, whilst the rich dark green of their leaves shows to double advantage through the brilliant covering; the twigs of the yellow willow may be compared to amber set in crys- tal ; the red maple, and the large berries of the sweet-briar, seem covered with pendant diamonds ; the trees at a distance appear to be loaden with blossoms, white, glittering, and brilliant ; but no description can convey an adequate idea of the * fairy frost-w^ork.' " April 2d. As memoranda relative to the cli- mate must be particularly interesting to those who may think of emigrating, I notice, that this day a heavy snow is falling, wind N. N. E., — the Thermometer at eight o'clock a.m., exposed in shade, 37® of Fahrenheit ; yesterday it was above temperate, but the two days before at the above hour of the morning, as low as 31<^ and 32° : the apricots and other trees which have already put WINTER AT PHILADELPHIA. 201 forth blossoms, must have been injured and many of the trees will probably be killed. In conse- quence of these sudden extremes of temperature, o-arden cultivation is difficult and uncertain, and the market produce much higher than in England ; a dollar is frequently given for a cauliflower, and a quarter dollar (13 id.) is considered a low price ; for a common cabbage I was asked nine cents (about 5d.,) and most other vegetables bear a pro- portionate price. Called yesterday upon Mr. H***** : the con^ versation turned upon the right of primogeniture, a right which (scarcely deserving to be so called) is not recognised here. It is true that a man is permitted to exercise it in his testamentary dis- positions, but it is scarcely ever acted upon. I observed, that though the descent of estates to the eldest son was strictly agreeable to the spirit of our government, yet many with us wished its abolition were practicable, and were of opinion that this would be a great point gained to the cause of rational liberty ; regarding it as strictly an act of justice, that a father should divide his property evenly among children who all claimed an equal share in his atfection. In answer, he acknowledged, that his mind too was so strongly impressed with the equal claim of children to a pareD.t's support, that he believed he might in his 202~ WINTER. AT PHILADELPHIA. own case act upon it : yet, he added, that should he do so it would be entirely unaccordant with his actual observation of its effects ; for, out of very many instances which had come under his obser- vation, he had hardly known any which had suc- ceeded; the children had received their equal por- tions, but not the experience necessary to proper management and economy, and consequently nine times in ten they bought experience with every dollar, and in the end became either idle, dissi- pated, good-for-nothing characters, or had at least to begin the world again with nothing. — I asked how the children, in the instances which he called to mind, had been brought up, and if they had been placed out properly at first; for if so, it seems to be a manifest advantage that a young man should possess a sum of money for immedi- ate support and with which to start in life. He said, that in many cases the parents had given excellent educations, but he acknowledged that they had died before the children had been well introduced into life. '' Were it otherwise," he ob- served, " were the parent to live long enough to induce habits of industry and economy, and to see his children well settled in their respective pro- fessions or trades, there can be no objection to their being equally portioned ; else, an elder brother, especially if he conducts himself wor- EXCURSION TO THE CAPITOL. 203 thily, forms a sort of support to the rest of the family, a point d'appui, which preserves a share of respectability to them that in America they experience the want of; he keeps together that property which would otherwise probably be squandered, that respectability which would otherwise be lost." 3d. Mr. K*** having some business to transact at Washington, the metropolis of the United States, 1 took the opportunity and agreed to accompany him. We left Philadelphia at mid-day, in the steam boat bound for the small town of New- castle, on the Delaware, distant about forty miles; price of passage one dollar and a half: there were twenty- four passengers on board; a fine day over head, but snow lay upon the ground and the air piercingly cold. Arrived at New- castle a little before five p. m., where stages numbered 1, 2, 3, Sec. M^ere waiting to take pas- sengers eighteen miles over the neck of land which here divides the Delaware from the Chesapeake Bay : previous to landing we had each a ticket, numbered, given to us, which each one took to the stage of corresponding number by which he was to go, and this plan prevented all disputes and confusion. Having all taken our seats in these vehicles, which are a sort of covered waggon having 204 EXCURSION TO THE CAPITOL. benches placed in rows across, and the luggage being adjusted, they started in cavalcade, and in little more than two hours and a half arrived upon the shore of Chesapeake Bay. It was now dark, but everything was quickly removed into another steam boat, much larger than the first, and with- out any loss of time its wheels were set in motion and we proceeded for Baltimore at the rate of about ten miles an hour, bringing-to at the wharf there about three o'clock next morning. The steam boats here have been already frequently described, I shall only observe therefore that they are of great length, capacious, and as comfortable as carpets, stoves, good beds, and good meals can make them : this had three cabins, two aft and one before,containing altogether fifty-eight births. There are a set of regulations hung up which are strictly observed ; one is that no smoking is allowed except upon deck; another, that no portmanteau or trunk be admitted into the cabin : travellers will do well therefore to take a sac^ de-nuit with them for the few things they may want at night ; let them not forget too, to bring some book to their taste in case of a want if conversation, for Americans are in general rather reserved. The conversation here was chiefly upon the recent fatal duel between Com- modores Decatur and Barron; it seemed to be EXCURSION TO THE CAPITOL. 205 the general opinion that the latter could not with honour have avoided the meeting : one gentleman observed that the right man had fallen, both on account of his conduct tow^ards Barron, and also for his quarrelsome disposition and general seek- ing such combats ; he had, he said, previously- killed three antagonists, of whom two w^ere Ens;- lish. These American stages or caravans carry all the passengers withinside, an arrangement which renders travelling with servants expensive : we were eleven young and old, closely packed, and jumbled away at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour, w^ithout interest ; for we could only catch a glimpse of the country now^ and then by lifting up the side leather. Soon after noon we came in sight of the Capitol, and were set down at a large Tavern near to it. The dirt, ill- arrangement and absence of com- mon comforts in an American tavern or hotel have already been expatiated upon amply; but to meet with such things under the walls of the Capitol, at the very seat of government, I w^as not prepared. On entering the Hotel, a poor lad, wdiose disha- bille of dirt and rags defies description, came with a brush, which he was making less "fit for use by rubbing its bristles upon his dirtier hand, to ask if he should brush our coats. We enquired 206 THE CAPITOL. for a room up stairs to shave, &c., and though past one o'clock not a bed had been made, or a breath of acceptable fresh air permitted to blow into these chambers of contamination ! — Having- finished the toilette as well as we were able, our first visit was to the Capitol. It stands finely upon the edge of a high com- manding ridge, from whence with one sweeping glance one views the subjacent grounds down to the Potomae river, and the elevated country beyond ; to the right is seen George Town and the most populous part of Washington, the Pre- sident's House, the Post-Office, Sec. but alas ! excepting these and a few other mostly dispersed buildings, the horse, the cow, and the swine, still graze quietly around the Capitol of Wash- .inston. Viewinsf however the beautiful site of this city with the eye of its venerable founder, and with him letting imagination cover it with houses and "the busy hum of men," if we then look round for the attractions of support for this multitude, the illusion vanishes. Commerce can- not but with difficulty flourish upon the shallow bed of the river, and agriculture may long strive for success in vain, with the surrounding sterility. Wherein then must the motive of the statesman be sought for founding a city in a place favourable alone to the eye ? Could he make a mistake ? THE CAPITOL. 207 That Is not probable. Could it be to favour his native State, or to gratify a whim ? This is not consonant to the character of his great mind. A despot of Russia might build a city upon piles vainly to shew posterity his power : Frederick of Prussia might have his Potsdam ; but Washington ever kept utility in view, and never aimed to gra- tify a vain wdsh at the expense of his fellow crea- tures. It is then suggested, that, impressed with the importance of quiet deliberation, he fixed the seat of government upon a spot so unattractive to the multitude that their representatives might be unbiassed by faction. Of the Capitol the centre is yet to rear its head, the wings alone are finished ; these contain the Hall of Representatives and that of the Senate — a Library* — aPost-Office for the Members — Com- mittee Rooms, &c. The Hall of Representatives is of semicircular form ; a beautiful colonnade of native with capitals of Italian, marble, ranges along within the semi- circle and its base, with rich crimson and fringed curtain drapery between the columns. The Pre- sident's throne is placed on the centre of the base and fronting the semicircle, the seats and desks * The Library is lately renewed ; the former one was burnt by us in the late war, for which deed we have obtained per- haps justly the appellation of "Modern Goths.*' 208 THE CAPITOL. for the Members ranged so as to radiate from it ; the whole area is covered with a rich and rather gaudy carpet. The Hall of the Senate is as studiously plain as that of the Representatives is gaudy ; in the same form, but upon a much smaller scale, and the gal^ lery is only upon the base of the semicircle, so that a spectator here fronts the Members ; — the style of decoration throughout is far preferable to the other. Of the debates on the tapis I can say but little, not having had time sufficient to give them much attention, — they were apparently carried on how- ever with more decorum than from report I had reason to expect, except that the exercise of spit- ting upon the beautiful carpet was continued as everywhere else ; the walls of the stairs and the stairs themselves also were covered with the saliva of tobacco chewers. It being an expected compliment from strangers- coming to the Seat of Government to pay their respects to its head, we drove down to the Presi- dent's house, at the hour appointed ; it is a hand- some stone building, which has now been restored and repaired since the shock given to it by the English ; but the gardens and pleasure grounds. Teaching down to the banks of the Potomac, and extending again up to the Capitol, are as yet only THE CAPITOL. 209 to be seen upon paper; rude nature still rules absolute over the tract. Remains of the late snow yet lay in the shade, and negligence, studied or accidental, had left it upon the flight of steps to the President's house, an old plank being laid upon the landing that visitors might get dry to the door. A servant, not a man of show, admit- ted us into a plain hall, and ushered us up stairs to the private apartment in which we found Mr. Munroe seated alone at his bureau with various papers before him ; he arose at our entrance, and himself placed chairs for us, which his indepejident servant had left the room without doing. Mr. Munroe appeared a plain quiet man in dress and manners, the English country gentleman with a physiognomy which bore marks of deep reflec- tion: a conversation of ten minutes on indiffer- ent subjects terminated our visit, when, instead of formal etiquette he gave me a friendly shake of the hand with a "God bless you," spoken in a pleasing tone, which left upon me a very fa- vourable impression. The other objects of our curiosity were, the Naval Dock-yard, George Town, the Patent Of- fice ; at this last, we were much amused by the various models, amongst which, though I shall not attempt minutely to describe them, may be enumerated a car propelled with the hands by a p 210 NAVAL DOCK. easy and very simple contrivance, a model of ma- chinery applicable to propelling boats instead of the steam engine, several models of bridges, a cotton-carder, a plough having its beam turn upon a centre to save the trouble of swinging it round at the land ends ; these were among the inventions most attracting our attention, and I now mention them as a remembrancer to good machinists who may have an opportunity of viewing them. George Town is an extensive place and pretty thickly settled ; and it much resembles our more popu- lous villages adjoining to London; the road is excellent between it and the Capitol, and to the foot of the hill is lined with houses many of which are good, substantial, handsome buildings. In the Naval Dock there was little to review worth mention to an English reader; we saw a clumsy monument, erected we were told to com- memorate the burning of a frigate at Tripoli by Commodore Decatur. On the stocks was a fri- gate as they denominated it, but which appeared to be of a size equal to our second rate ; and at the forge an anchor was forming of 10,000lb. weight. These were the chief objects which at- tracted attention. On account of the recent loss of Decatur it was the fashion to be very dull, and no drawing-room has been held since his death : we passed the evening with Mr. *****, a IMember SHAD FISHERY* 211 of Congress, who had obligingly shewn us what- ever was thouo-ht worth viewing, and some amuse- ment was afforded at a lecture upon the laughing gas, in seeing its ludicrous effects upon several individuals of the company who inhaled it. The following morning, my compagnon-de-voy- age having finished his business, we quitted Vir- ginia, and in twenty-eight hours were landed again at the Fish-market wharf in Philadelphia. Fish is well supplied here in quantity but not in variety : it has hitherto chiefly consisted of a coarse kind called Sea Bass^ but now the Shad fishery is just commencing; these fish come up the large rivers in shoals, and are caught in hun- dreds at each haul with the seine ; they are a very oily fish and weigh from two or three to ten pounds and perhaps more ; being a plentiful sea- son they are just now bought of the fishermen at the price of five dollars a hundred, and have been lately as low as three dollars. In the season of 1818, they sold at sixteen and seventeen dollars a hundred. Many parties are formed during the season to see them caught and to partake of them fresh from the water; one of these being made we took a boat, which carried us under a pleasant breeze down the river to a place called Gloucester Point, here the shore suiting we saw several seines hauling, and upon the beach car- p2 212 SHAD FISHERY. avans waiting to convey the fish, as quick asJ caught up the country, where they are cut open, cleaned, salted down, and many of them smoked, contributing very largely to the winter food of the Americans. The Herring season comes on here immediately after that of the Shad, but it is not near so much reckoned upon. Out of the produce of one of the hauls two fish, of about seven or eight pounds each, were taken, and quickly brought to table in excellent order ; — the mode of dressing is to open the fish, nail it to a board and place it before a fire ; it is thus toasted, and being brought in upon the board quite hot proves very good eating. In the room where we dined were hung up a printed set of rules of a fox-hunting club ; but how the chase can be fol- lowed on horseback through a country so un- cleared and undrained, it is to me a mystery — must too often prove like that of Caliban and his companions following the music of the invisible Ariel, *' through toothed briars, sharp furzes, pricking gorse and thorns," and ending "i'the filthy mantled pool ;" dry clothes and a cigar the best enjoyment of the day. By the way we had a specimen here of the early initiation into the habit of smoking ; a fine child of only about three years old was very coolly walking about and puffing a cigar, while he looked on at our pastime NIGHTLY ALARMS. 213 at shuffleboard, an obsolete English game, it is said, though new to our party. The day had been delightfully fine ; but, tempted by the game, we lingered too long at the amusement, and on the return encountered one of those violent squalls of wind and rain which are so common here in spring ; it suddenly blew tremendously, and our little sail was with difficulty taken in — the party luckily all sat steady, or we might not have escap- ed with the inconvenience alone of a thorough wetting and spoiled finery. 9th. Incendiaries have lately been dreadfully alert — the whole city is under nightly apprehen^ sion of fire, and hardly a day passes without alarm, the roll of fire engines with the dismal horns of the attendants are constantly sounding in our ears : threatening letters have been received, and many buildings actually burnt down. The Theatre was consumed late on Sunday evening in a short space of time, fire having been laid in several places ; snow, which lay in the streets, by adding to the reflection of light increased the tremendous effect. The cause of these crimes is sought for by some people in religious bigotry; others look with suspicion on the black population ; and some, not without grounds, have attributed these diabolical deeds to some unprincipled white people of even respectable connections. To save themselves 214 PARTING SENTIMENTS. from these unknown desperadoes the inhabitants of each district or parish, have formed themselves into patroles, relieving each other nightly ; the watch is doubled and every precaution taken. 18th. The cry of "fire," which begun here, spreads ; — Baltimore and New York are suffering from incendiaries, who are now supposed to be mechanics, many of whom are out of work and most working for low wages. This general state of alarm and real insecurity naturally increases the anxious wish once again to breathe English air. The sails are unfurling for departure, and I should quit a country without regret where hope supported by theory has met with disappointment, were it not that, during my residence, I have found a few individuals whose worth entitles them to a lingering, painful farewell. Such characters support a state amidst the vice and folly of the million. They fill with respect- ability any station, for their hearts are good ; and of such were America composed there would be little to say against her sons. As, however, this is not the unalloyed lot of any the most perfect assemblage of mankind, the United States mav be supposed to stand upon at least equally fair ground with others ; that she may do so in time I cannot deny, — that she does so at present is not my opinion : and truth compels the avowal, that FAUTIXG SENTIMENTS. 215 actual observation of the effects of republican Government, as mankind are at present constitut- ed, are not favourable to the improvement of their nature, or the cultivation of those high qualities which we may all admire but cannot all possess. Nor is it necessary that we should : they can alone be brought to perfection by attentive education ; which subsequent reading, observation, leisure, and deep reflection may refine into the legislator, the philosopher, the statesman and all of that rank in society so essential to good government, united with general polish of manners. Now this porton of a community needs evidently to consist of but few, which are sufficient for the important parts they take ; while the rest are immersed in the equally necessary affairs of trade, traffic, handi- craft, &c., falling into the ranks suitable to their capacities ; but that this latter class, even if they could conveniently forego their daily speculations and cares, can be expected to act with proper dignity, penetration, propriety and tact in the character of legislators and other high offices of common weal, is an expectation too absurd to need an argument, Do I then prefer the Govern- ment of my own country ? I do prefer it ; even with all its many faults to the present mob influ- ence of the United States : and America must so fur get rid of it as to let talents rise into respect. 216 THE FAREWELL. and form a rank in society which she now abhors, — she must too, gain more efficiency to the execu- tive part of her Government or — — I should expect as soon that the good citizens of London, who are certainly a very worthy body of men in their proper sta- tions, should become superior to the court in high knowledge and refinement of manners, as that America can ever be well-conducted under a Government composed of men who are other- wise engaged in mercenary speculations of trade and commerce ; these may sharpen the wits but will never elevate the understanding. Majj 10th. At sea. The farewell is over ; the tear has fallen ; and the hearty gripe of the hand between those who " may ne'er meet again" may not be forgotten. The anchor weighed, no longer impeding the ship's course ; the last friendly wave of the handkerchief (meaning more then than is afterwards remembered) has been answered ; and we now pledge a health " to those far away" with feelings of regret, not unmixed with those of an- ticipated pleasure at the prospect of again behold-, ing our native shore. The progress down Delaware Bay was rough and tedious ; easterly winds (an uncommon oc- currence,) blowing steadily against us, and the tides alone favouring ; we have been from the 2d EXCURSION TO SHORE. 217 of the month working out. Off Lewistown we lay two days at anchor; pilot boats came off to the ship, and weather being fine, and some "few additional stores being wanting, a party was made to go on shore; an excursion which had nearly end- ed disastrously. Those who have been at sea are well enough acquainted with the difficulties of getting down and up a ship's side, into one boat, and then from that into another, landing upon a surfy beach, &c. After experiencing all this we got on shore pretty well, and proceeding for the town were agreeably surprised to find a neat vil- lage, though apparently it has seen better days : the soil a dry sandy gravel, and the country around a good black loam and clay. Almost for the first time we saw in America pretty neat gar- dens well stocked with flowers, in which, and in the neatness of their houses, the owners seemed to enjoy much satisfaction. It might partly be the effect of land after five days tossing upon the water that we fancied this place so pleasant, and that we thought, if retirement were the object, a man miofht well seek it here : several of the inha- bitants very civilly invited the party into their houses and gardens, and a rich bouquet of flowers was presented to us by a very handsome interest- ing girl the daughter of one of the proprietors ; — may her beauty last long, and herself meet not 218 AMERICAN WOMtN. the fate of the flowers she gave ; — they were lost and scattered to the winds on our pas- sage to the ship, during which we had suffi- cient employment to take care of ourselves alone. The female portion of American society has occupied so little of our attention, that I fear the omission will be considered by the ladies here as the most material and least excusable fault ; for, as a drama without female beauty and devotion to it, is hard to manage with in- terest, so a traveller's journal which shall con- tain no pleasing observations upon the lovely half of our species must expect their unquali- fied disapprobation. Yet would I deprecate their anger, and place my defence best perhaps upon the cause for my silence — where it is our anxious wish to admire, it grieves us to find fault ; especially if we cannot qualify our observations with some praise. — Yet, having entered upon the subject, truth urges on the pen to record my im- pressions, however unfavourable they may prove. As, in the general character of the men so little can be found to tally with the best drawn models of a noble republican, so has the education of the women been totally mistaken. Light and dark- ness are not more opposite than the Roman matron and this modern female republican, who is equally destitute of the sedate, retired manners so attach- AMKRICAX WIVES. 219 ing in my own countrywomen, as of the lively wit and fascinating manners of the French females ; though, covered w ith the finery of the latter, the poor things are taught to believe they must be as engaging ; possessing forms, too, not at all or the least possible en bon point. Brought up intirely ignorant of every real domestic duty, the method taken to remedy this error, previous to their mar- riage and consequent entering upon those duties, is truly laughable — they are sent to some cook and confectioner as pupils to learn economy and make pastry 1 and after a practice in tarts, cheese- cakes, bon bons, &c. for a few weeks, are declared fit to undertake the important concerns of a wife and mother ! Receiving from nature but little ap- parent warmth of constitution, they neither excite interest by intrigue, nor respect by the domestic virtues, and become completely insipid beings ; — is it then surprising that with minds so prepared for frivolity, they should be bent alone upon ex- travagant and childish decoration of their persons, which, together with their total ignorance of do- mestic economy, is for ever bringing their hus- bands to bankruptcy ? It will of course be understood that the above observations relate chiefly to the inhabitants of the Eastern parts ; and that there are exceptions to be made within the range of this immense terri- 220 AT SEA. tory. The lovely brunette, the immediate cause of these reflections, is an instance ; and for a gene- ral one, as to form and features, may be mention- ed the women of Kentucky. — But it is time that we return to our boat. On regaining the beach we found it laying high and dry, the boys left in charge of her crying with vexation and fear of the Captain's displeasure at their not being able to keep her in the water. An awful black cloud brought on by a violent squall just at this instant began to pour down a deluge of rain, in the midst of which we were all exerting ourselves, some in the water and some out, to launch the boat ; which having with great difficulty accomplished, to jump into her and immediately pull the oars and keep her head against the sea was next with great efforts effected ; and in this had we not succeeded, she would inevitably have filled instantly. We now got through the breakers, and drenched with rain and sea pulled away for the pilot boat, into the small cabin of which we dived, and felt compara- tively safe from the squall which increased ac- companied with thunder and very vivid lightning. Near an hour and a half now passed in working up to the ship though the distance did not appear great; and then the pilot would not be persuaded to lay us alongside for fear of the consequences to his boat in coming in contact with the ship on the AT SEA 221 rough sea ; so that we were compelled to get out and brave the elements again in the small boat, a thing not easily managed, having a lady of the party ; the boat was deep in the water, the sea ran high, and the Captain allowed, after we were hap- pily received on board just as the darkness of night prevailed, that the chances had been against it. Here again we proved that " delays are dange- rous," the unnecessary one of an hour occasioned all our troubles, and might have sent us to the bottom ; not to expatiate upon the loss of a large heap of purchased oysters which, having enough to do to save ourselves, were left upon the beach for the finder. Upon the whole, however, we had reason to be pleased with this little trip and fare- well to the shore ; it had effected a softening of unfavourable impressions ; we had unexpectedly met with youth and beauty, native feeling and taste, neatness and comfort, and we departed in charity. A dismal midnight leave of Columbia's shores followed. After riding out another day of " hard hearted winds," attended by thunder and light- ning, the anchor was once more weighed, and as night approached, we succeeded in gaining the mouth of the Bay with a sufficient " slant of wind" to get out. The darkness now became extreme ; and about eleven o'clock the pilot quitted the ship 222 AT SEA. and went on board his attending boat, leaving his best instructions in what manner to steer ; yet a little apprehensive on account of the rocks called *' Hen and chickens," and some other shoals which were yet to be passed. Two other vessels, the sounds from which could now and then be heard, were working out at the same time ; their pilots having also left them, their lanthern lights, which had been watched with some comfort, were extinofuished as well as our own ; and we turned in to behold land no more until we might hail the white cliffs of Albion 1 0th . Our good ship, the Factor, has now fairly taken her departure, and is " walking away" with a tolerably fair breeze. A fine sky smiles over- head, and the two ships and several more are in view ; one of our consorts has borne down and spoke, she is bound for the East Indies and heavily laden. Some immense flocks of small birds are seen attending upon shoals of mackarel, urging on their way to meet destruction upon the coasts of America. — But it is not my intention to detail at length the events of the passage : — we expe- rienced, as many have done before, black heavy clouds rising in successive squalls ; the ominous porpoise in shoals leaped forward above the wave, and darting in again shot swiftly along seeming to contend with the ship in velocity. The fog IRELAND. 223 bank at early morn sometimes displayed its illu- sive scenery of land, trees, lakes, and mountains ; pleasing as the visions of young Hope, and as un- substantial. Occasionally we watched — "The course of the far distant sail 'Till shapeless and lost to the view " pressing onward over this world of waters to gain the hoped-for port; and if by chance a vessel passed near enough to speak, it was an event highly interesting to all. The first two weeks were rendered tedious by contrary winds and calms, but during the rest of the passage the breezes seemed to blow on pur- pose to forward us; and at length,on the 1st June, we beheld the high land of Erin bearing exactly as our Captain* had calculated ; indeed it is but justice to him to say that his lunar and other observations were throughout correct. He is a brave and worthy man from whom we experienced every polite attention to comfort during the pas- sage. We now bore up the channel with a strong but favourable breeze, and passing Holyhead took in a pilot, and the following morning the Factor was brought safely into dock at Liverpool (in a hard gale however,) in twenty-four days from leaving Delaware Bay. * Mr. Sheed of the United States Navy. 224 ENGLAND. Having arrived in terra cognita again, I think it the proper place to take leave of the reader. Should Fortune, unpropitious at home — the spirit of enterprise — or any other motive, ever induce him to seek the shores of Columbia, he has my best wishes for success, if he shall deserve them ; and should any of the hints here given prove con- ducive to it, my end is answered. And let Ame- ricans cease to show anger at the observations of those travellers who have visited their country : though unfavourable the reports we give, they are the best proofs of the friendly interest we take in their w^elfare, and of the hopes w^e entertain of w^hat they may in time become. Their soreness upon the mention of their faults is truly unreason able, for they are such as they may amend. The man who should laugh at a blind eye or a wooden leg would be silly and illiberal ; but if satire is levelled at curable failings the wise will take it in good part. FINIS. Printed by J. Drury, 3G, Lombard-street, London. THE LIBRARY OF THE UHIVE!i- ;n GF ILLINOIS WALK THROUGH WALES, IN AUGUST 1797, BY TUK Rev^, Richard Warner^ OF BATH. mxnXXXJBXVtJXum *'* Creation's tenarw ! all the world is thine." BATH, PRINTED BY R. CRUTTWELL, AND SOLD BY e. DlLLYj POULTRY-, LONDON. 1798-. A D VER TISEMEK T. THE following letters wei-e ivritten to a friend during a Walk through Wales in August last. Since tliat time, tliey have been added to and corrected', and are now pre- sented to the public, under the impression, that they may be found to afford some few hints and observations not altogether useless to those whose curiosity shall lead them to visit the very .sticking scenery of North-Wales. The route of each day is engraven, and prefixed to the letter that contains a detail of its events; in zvhich little sketcJies the more considerable de- viations from the public road, viade in order to visit particular objects, are marked with dotted lines. These are intended for the di- rection /jf tlie Pedestrian, zahose independent mode of travelling enables him to catch beau- ties in his walk through an Alpine country, which the incumbrance of a carriage, and even the indulgence of a horse, prevents an- other traveller from enjoying. BATH, JANUARY 1798. ERRATA. Page i8 line iz, for area rezd area. 109 5» Jele over. 113 18, for ejaculations read exhortationt. 180 19, for nch read wi&. IPlU.sk fca Llanllowcl Penowmiur Newport Road Caerwent CaWecot Castle ^ 'o CIiepttoMt New Passage LETTER I. To J **#« ^****# ESQ. DEAR SIR, Usky Aug, l^tb, 1797. YOU will not be astonished at receiving a letter from the northern side of the Severn, apprised as you were of my intention to peram- bulate Wales in the course of this month. An expedition of this nature, you know, has often been the subject of our conversation, long before I became an inhabitant of a place so B C 2 ] immediately in the neighbourhood of the Prin- cipahty ; and, even when strolling through the glades of New Forest, we have more than once amused ourselves with anticipating the plea- sure we should receive, when leisure and op- portunity would allow us to visit the country of the ancient Britons j to wander along the sweet banks of the Dovyj to climb the steeps of Snowdon and Cader Idris; to listen to the thundering cataracts of Mouddach and Dol-y- Myllyn; to admire the variegated landscapes of Festiniogg, Clwyd, and Langollen; and to breathe the inspiring air wdiere liberty made her last stand in these kingdoms, against the strides of Roman power, under the gallant Silurian and Ordovician chieftains. The particular circumstances which pre- vented you from being my companion, induced me to drop the idea of this pilgrimage last year^ and as they still continued to operate, I should probably have suffered this autumn also to elapse without performing it, had not C expressed a wish to accompany me. I before mentioned to you his offer, and the readiness with which I accepted such an agreeable asso- ciate. Solitary pleasures are, at the best, but imperfects and with respeft to travelling in [ 3 ] particular, the gratification arising from it de- pends so much upon having a companion, with whom one can interchange sentiment, and communicate observation, as leads me entirely to coincide with Cicefo in thinking, that even a journey to the stars without society would be but a dull kind of expedition.* In preparing for a pedestrian tour, few ar- rangements are requisite: a single change of raiment, and some other little articles for the comfort of the person, form all the necessary baggage of a foot-traveller. To convey these, however, light as they may be, in the most easy and convenient manner, is an objeft of importance, and requires some previous thought and consideration. C — ' — , conceiving it might be best efFefted by the assistance of side-pockets, has had two receptacles of this kind, of con- siderable dimensions, added to his coat. My plan is a different one: a negle£i:ed Spencer^ which, though somewhat threadbare and rusty, may still make a respeftable figure in North- Wales, has, by the taylor's skill, been fitted up * Verum ergo id est ; si quis in coelum ascendisset, naturamque mundi, et pulchritudinem sldcrum perspexissct, insuavem illam ad- mirationem ei fore, quse jucundissima fuisset, si aliquem cui narraret habuisset. De Amic. C 4 ] with a sportsman's pocket, that sweeps from one side to the other, and allows room sufficient for all the articles necessary to be carried.* Accoutred in this manner, and provided with maps and a compass, v/hich we understand are indispensably requisite amongst the mountains of Merioneth and Caernarvonshire, we left Bath this morning as the clock was striking five. There is something wonderfully inspiriting in the commencement of a journey to a place which we have never before visited. The mind, delighting in novelty, eagerly anticipates the * Experience has since convinced us, that both these modes of carrying necessaries are exceptionable, and by no means so commo- dious as a method we observed to have been adopted by a pedes- trian party, which we encountered in Cardiganshire. Each of the gentlemen (for there were three of them) carried a handsome leathern bag, covered with neat net-work, which, being suspended from the right shoulder by a strap, hung under tlie left arm, in the manner of a shooting-bag. This was occasionally shifted from one shoulder to the other, and at the same time that it proved a most convenient conveyance for linen, &c. was no Inelegant addi- tion to the person ; at least, it gave the wearer much less the ap- pearance of a pedlar than attached to us, from the enormous side- pockets of my companion, and my own swolu Spencer. It is proper to note also, that, in addition to our stock of necessaries, we each found it convenient to provide ourselves with a small drinking-horn; for although we had no difficulty in procuring fnilk, and other sorts of beverage, yet the vessels from which we quaffed thefe potations were not always so clean as those we had been accustomed to use. C ^ 3 o-ratlfication, which scenes that are new to it are found to afford j and the imagination, al- ways alive and aftive, when its creative powers are not restrained by previous knowledge, is busied in painting fancied beauties, and form- ing ideal pleasures, which are never discovered in the real pi£lure, nor experienced in a6hial enjoyment. We were in high spirits j and the beauty of the opening day added to our hilarity. Every circumstance that could cheer or enliven, was present to us: '* The attemper'd sun arose «* Sweet-beam'd, and shedding oft through lucid clouds " A pleasing calm — " A gentle western breeze, that seemed to bring health and pleasure on its wings, played around us; the hills echoed the thousand " melodies of morn;" the woodts rang with harmony; and we confessed that the animated description of the poet was not the language of fi6lion: — " But who the melodies of morn can tell? " The wild brook babbling down the mountain side; *• The lowing herd ; the sheepfold's simple bell ; " The pipe of early shepherd dim descried " In the lone valley ; echoing far and wide * The clamorous horn along the cliffs above; [ 6 ] " The hollow murmur of the ocean-tide; " The hum of bees, and linnets' lay of love, " And the full choir that wakes the universal grove. " The cottage-curs at early pilgrim bark ; *' Crown'd with her pail the tripping milk-maid sings ; *' The whistling plowman stalks afield; and hark! " Elown the rough slope the ponderous waggon rings ; •' Through rustling corn the hare astonish'd springs; " Slow tolls the village clock the drowsy hour; " The partridge bursts away on whirring wings; " Deep mourns the turtle in sequester'd bower, " An4 shrill lark carols clear from her aerial tour." Beattie's Minstrel. As we were desirous to avoid Bristol^ for our obje6t is neither " tower'd cities," nor *' the busy hum of men," we passed it on the left, and continued our walk to Westbury, a village about fifteen miles from Bath. Here the sign of the Goat caught our attention, and consider- ing it as a propitious omen, and emblematic of the expedition in which we are engaged, we determined to breakfast under its venerable figure j though the house, from which it hung as a signal of invitation to the passing traveller, did not appear to be such as would afford us, very sumptuous fare. Nor, indeed, did its ex- ternals deceive usj the milk was thin, the bread [ - ] stale, and the water half cold; but such is the magical operation of kind attention and a wil- lingness to oblige, that notwithstanding these little defects in our entertainment, we lett the Goat in as perfect harmony of temper with its civil mistress and her attentive handmaid, as if they had spread before us the substantial cream and relishing sally-luns of Sydney-Gardens. No circumstance worth obser\ation occurred till we were within a mile of the New Passage, when, hearing the rattling of a carriage, we turned round, and perceived we should soon be overtaken bv a cart which contained two fashi- onable young females, I am sorry to confess, my friend, that philosophers as w^e are, we telt confounded at the idea of being discovered by so smart a party, on foot, in the turnpike-road, and equipped as I have described ourselves to be; nor was our confusion lessened, when we perceived that one of the ladies w^as a distant acquaintance of each of us. I muft also ac- knowledge, that this emotion of false shame was the more unpardonable, as C and I had before w^orked ourselves, by divers arguments and much reasoning, into a fancied heroism in this respect; having been aware that such trials of vanity might befal us, and having coolly dis' [ 8 ] cussed the absurdity of allowins: them to gall our feelings, or wound our pride. The mo- ment, however, that the enquiring eye of Miss surveyed us, — ibi omnis e^isus labor — our philosophy vanished into air; our laboured reasonings fell to the ground; our fancied he- roism flew o3" in a tangent, and we found that speculation, and practice were not quite so necessarily connected together as cause and effecl. Before we reached the Passage, however, we had again recovered our senses, and acquired a sufficient degree of confidence to accost the ladies, whom we saw on the beach. It now appeared, (and we were not a little amused at the discovery) that they had been as much dis- tressed at being seen riding in a cart, as we were, walking in the public road, with our wallets at our backs. Mutual explanations took place. They assured us, they had venutred to ascend the ignoble machine, because it was the only vehicle which could be procured in the village wiiere they lodged; and we declared we had chosen to walk through Wales, because we were juis- siciuitely fond of the exercise, and avoided, by adopting that plan, the care, trouble, and in- convenience of horses and carriages. C 9 ] W'e now took leave of the ladies, ar.d pro- ceeded to the packet, into which we did not get admission without considerable diciciLtv, the boatmen having taken advantage of our being engaged in conversation, and acTLallv put on trorn the shore without us, although we had previousiv spoken for a passage. This is a common manc&uvre with the very barb'arous description of beings who ply the vessels en- gaged m crossing the Severn; a trick that obliges the disappointed traveller to engage a boat for himself, at the expence of six shillings, instead of nine-pence. The boats being ail one joint concern, the ofcener this can be enected the more the interest of the proprietors isferved, and, doubtless, the more advantageous it is to the men. Indeed, long as I have hved near maritime towns, and much as I have seen of the nautical character, I never witnessed half the barbarism that shocks one at this place. The sailor, though always a rough and unpo- lished, is seldom a savage or brutal character ^ at the New Passage, however, a difierent species appears, and were we to judge of the £fxm from this panicular cujss, the tar would sink much in our estimation. The cause of this ex- ception to a general rule, appears to arise lix»m [ 10 ] the circumstance of the Passage being in the hands of a partnership. This being the case, there are, of course, no separate interests; no competitions; no struggle to deserve preference by particular attention, or superior courtesy ; no endeavour to engage the future custom of the passenger by consulting his present ease, convenience, or pleasure; no stimulus to ensure civility; no check to prevent insolence; and the consequence is what we may naturally ex- peft it to be, the mariners engaged in the business are as rude, turbulent, and violent, as the estuary they navigate; each individual resembling the Stygian ferryman, described by Virgil: — " Portitor has horrendus aquas et flumlna servat " Terribili squalore Charon; cui plurima mento ** Canities inculta jacet; stant lamina flamma." ViRG. vi. 298. Whilst crossing the Severn we could not but recollccl: that we were floating on a river of no ignoble name; a stream famed in British story, and not unnoticed by the classic historians. Tacitus,* you know, speaks of the Sabrinay and observes, that the proprietor P. Ostorius fortified it with a chain of forts, in order to awe * Ann. xii: •?!. C 11 ] the surrounding parts. In the early writers of our own country this stream makes a conspicu- ous figure; and the fanciful fable of the origin of its name, which these romancers handed down to posterity, has afforded a subject to our great poet, for some fine lines in his delicious Comus: — " There is a gentle Nymph not far from hence, " That with moist curb sways the smooth Severn stream, " Sabrina is her name, a virgin pure ; " Whilome she was the daughter of Locrine, " That had his sceptre from his father Brute. " She, guiltless damsel, flying the mad pursuit " Of her enraged step-dame Guendolen, *' Commended her fair Innocence to the flood, *' That stay'd her flight with his cross-flowing course. *< The water-nymphs, that in the bottom play'd, " Held up their pearled wrists, and took her in, " Bearing her strait to aged Nereus' hall, " Who, piteous of her woes, rear'd her lank head, *' And save her to his dauGjhters to imbathe " In neiTtar'd lavers strew'd with asphodil, " And through the porch and inlet of each sense " Dropt in ambrosial oils, till she reviv'd, " And underwent a quick immortal change, " Made eoddess of the river: still she retains " Ker maiden gentleness, and oft at eve " Visits the herds along the twilight meads, " Helping all urchin blasts, and ill-luck signs " That the shrewd medling elfe delights to make, " Which she with precious vial'd liquor heals." C 12 3 Having crossed the Severn, we now felt our- selves fairly entered upon our expedition. We had passed the great boundary that divides Wales from England, and trod on land, which till lately, made part of the Principality. Quit- ting the road to Caerwent, we turned to the left, in order to visit the ruins of Caldecot castle, which lay at the distance of a mile in that direftion. On our walk thither we could not but remark a profusion of the absinthium vul- gar e, or common wormwood, which flourishes here in great perfeftion. The uses to which this plant is applied, and the medicinal prepa- rations drawn from it, its conserve, extra6l, salt, and essential oil, are well known; we were therefore much surprised to understand, on en- quiry, that although such quantities are spon- taneously produced in the neighbourhood, its virtues were not understood here, and that the plant was suffered to flourish and decay, with- out regard or attention; a negligence which reminded us of the poet's observation: — ♦' And yet the wholesome herb neglefted t^es. ** Though with the pure exhilarating soul ** Of nutriment and health, and vital powers, *• Beyond the reach of art, 'tis copious bless'd." ^ Thomson's Spring. [ 13 ] The ruin of Caldecot castle disappointed us. In its appearance there is nothing striking or picturesque; nor does its situation convey the idea of strength or importance. It stands in a flat, about a mile from the shore, surrounded with moats indeed, but such as would prove ver)' insignificant obstacles to an approaching enemy. Perhaps, however, it might not have been erefted so much for hostile purposes as for those of state; since it appears to have been attached to a particular office, that of Constable of Eno-- land, and was held by the service of the Con- stableship.* The antiquity of the buildino- is uncertain; probably as high as the early Anglo- Norman princes. Little of its history has reached our times, except the circumstance of its having been connected with "the birth of Henry Vll.f Leaving Caldecot, we direfted our course towards Caerwent,J passing through a rich, di- versified country, splendidly illuminated by the * Camden, Brit. p. 714. ed. ijii. •f The castel of Calecoyd longging to the Kinge, is in Base-Ven- teland toward the Severn shore, not far from Matthern. At thi* castel, as sum say, vas King Henry VII. begotten. — Leland, Iti«. vol. Y. s • t The Fenta Silurum of Antoninus. [ 14 ] beams of a glorious autumnal sun. As we ap- proached this place, which is now only a mi- serable village, busy fancy began her magical operations, and carried us back to those times, when Caerwent flourished in all the pride of classical architefture ; when, under the auspi- ces of Agricola, its temples and theatre, porti- coes and baths, almost rivalled the splendor of its maternal cityj and it exhibited all the ele- gancies of Roman refinement. This agreeable reverie might have lasted a considerable time, had not a walk of twenty-seven miles so ex- hausted us, that we were soon called from " speculation high" to attend to the cravings of appetite, the louddemands of nature. For- tunately, at this moment, the sign of the Bull invited us into a snug little public-house, where we gladly seated ourselves, and quickly forgot the lords of the world, and the accomplished general of Titus, in a tankard of excellent ale, and a dish of bacon and eggs. After fatisfying our appetite, we enquired for a ciceroni to conduft us round the ruins of Caer- went, and to point out a famous Roman tesse- lated pavement, which was discovered here in July 1777. Our landlord, who appeared to be the antiquary of the place, was unfortunately [ IJ ] prevented, by an indispensable engagement with a pipe and a pot of beer, from being oar companion i he therefore committed us to the conduft of a fine lad, about eighteen, tlie ostler of the house, who, he assured us, and I dare say with great truth, would shew the tiqiiities just as well as himself. We had not gone far, before we observed that our guide walked very lamely, and in great apparent pain. Perceiving that it arose from his knee, which was considerably swelled, and wrapped in bandages, I inquired the nature of the injury he had received. " An please your honour," returned the boy, with a very signi- ficant look, in which fear and anger were strangely blended, "Ise got a taking." ' A taking, my lad, what dost thou mean?' " A ivitdi hard by, and be dang'd to her, has taken to me." We were, you may imagine, not a little surprised to discover that old popular su- perstition, a belief in these imaginary gifted females, existing at a place not thirty miles in a direft line from Bath. Our curiosity was awakened, and \vq requested the lad to give us the particulars of his misfortune. He told us, that about three weeks back, as he was work- ing in a hedge, he suddenly found his knee ex"- [ 16 ] treniely painful; that on examining tlie part he could perceive no appearance of a wound, but notwithstanding it soon swelled very much, and became considerably inflamed. On his re- turn home, he shewed it to one of the neigh- bours, who very sagaciously asserted, that the injury must have been effected by supernatural means, and pointed out an old woman, the re- puted witch of the village, as the invisible agent in the business. He added, he had shewn it also to his master (mine host of the Bull) who had done every thing in his power to remove the ill, by first lancing the part and afterwards burning the flesh to the bone; but that, not- withstanding these jtidkious efforts of chirur- gical skill, the knee grew worse than ever: a circumstance which confirmed the patient's opi- nion of his being under the influence of witch- ery. * Well, my lad,' said I, ' and didst thou not go to the old lady?* " Ees, your honour, Ise went to her, but she vrighted I nationly. She lookt at 'un, zaid a vew words over un, and bade God bless me; telling me I should go home, bide quiet, pultice the knee, and be a good lad, and then I need not be afraid of her, or any other old woman. But I'll be even wi* her, I war'nt, for all that." The conclusion of [ 17 ] the boy's speech rather alarmed us for the safety of the poor creature, whose age and infirmities had rendered her the objeft of the villagers' suspicions ; but who, by the sufferer's own ac- count, possessed more good sense and benevo- lence than all of them together. We therefore endeavoured to convince him, that his malady arose from natural causes; from a thorn pro- bably in the first instance, aggravated by his master's very injudicious treatment of the alBifted part. We applauded and repeated the diredions of the old lady, and prevailed, after- wards, upon the host, whom we discovered to be the village do£lor, to adopt the more com- fortable and simple system of rest and poultices, in the room of cauterizing and excision. Few notices of the ancient grandeur or extent of this Roman station are now visible. Parts of the walls indeed remain, which ascertain the fortress to have been either square or oblong. These are substantial and well built; and the cement, as usual in ruins of this nature, firm, durable, and tenacious. That Caerwent, how- ever, was of considerable importance during the Roman dominion in this country, we may conclude from the extensive ruins to be seen on the spot in Leland's time, who visited it in c te te ft C 18 ] th^ beginning of the sixteenth century, and thus defcribes its appearance at that time : — " Cairguent in Base Venteland is iiii miles " from Chepstow in the way to Caerhon. It was sumtyme a fair and a large cyte. The places where the iiii gates was yet appere, " and the most part of the wal yet standith, " but al to minischyd and torne. In the towne *^ yet appere pavimentes of the old streates, " and yn digging they, finde fundations of great brykes, tessellata pavimenta, & numismata argentea simul & area."* The most remarkable and curious proof of the presence of the Romans here, is a beautiful tessellated pavement^ discovered in the year 1777, and even yet in tolerable preservation. It lies in a field belonging to a farm in the immediate neighbourhood of the village; and is twenty- four feet in length, and eighteen in breadth. The area consists of several compartments, con- taining pleasing representations of those circu- lar involutions frequently seen in Saxon archi- tecture, and known by the name of Runic circles. This is surrounded by a running bor- der of an elegant pattern, in the manner of a * Itin. vol. V. f. 5. [ 19 ] Turkey carpet. The whole is formed of fes- sera or dies, nearly cubical, about three parts of a inch deep, and little more than half an inch in breadth; consisting of four colours, red, yellow, blue, and white, which are so judiciously disposed, as to give great life and spirit to the work. You are not to be informed, my friend, that these tessellated pavements were much in re- quest with the ancients,, both in their public and private edifices. If the one we are now considering, did not form the floor of a small temple or sacel/um, it would probably be the elegant ornament of the dwelling of some mili- tary commander, residing at this Roman station. The gentleman on whose property it was dis- covered, Mr. Lewis, of Chepstow, with due regard to the curiosity of this specimen of anci- ent art, surrounded it with a stone wall, by which means it has been in a great measure de- fended from injury; but still, as this inclosure is not roofed in, and as persons who visit the pavement are not prohibited from carrying away samples of the tessera, it is to be feared, that the violence of the elements, and the de- predations of curiosity united, may in time rob the public of this curious remain. Having spent a considerable time on the scite of the Old Roman station, sighed over its perish- ing remains, and moraHzed on the transitory nature of all human grandeur, we turned into the road to Usk, and pursued our walk. A short half hour brought us to the pleasing little village of Lanvair; formerly the proud residence of some baronial chieftain, the only attestation of whose ancient splendour is the ruined shell of a castle, almost hidden from the eye by a luxuriant mantle of ivy. .This hostile edifice rises immediatelyover the village-church, a small and lowly building, which, together with its frowning neighbour, form appropriate emblems of pride and humility^ with their re- spc6i:ive consequences. The ostentatious tur- rets of the castle are sunken into the dust, and " their memorial isperished with them j" whilst the lowly house of prayer, " which maketh no proud boastings," still continues to secure ve- neration, and attraft regard. The village ce- metery is bounded by the turnpike-road, and as I ever make a point of visiting any country church-yard near which I happen to pass, C and myself entered the consecrated ground. The well-known elegy of a favourite poet may, perhaps, have had some secret and impercepti- C 21 3 ble influence in producing this propensity; and the association of ideas may sufficiently account for a partiality towards real scenes, the descriji- t'lon of which has afforded high gratification. To this cause of predileftion, however, may be added the reflection, which naturally arises in the mind in these repositories of the departed poor, that here is the conclusion of their sor- rows; the happy termination of those distresses, inconveniencies, and wants, which honest ex- perience will allow, in spite of all the fanciful reasonings of theory, the children of labour and poverty too sensibly feel. We had soon collefted the past biography of the village, from the " frail memorials" erefted to commemorate the names, age, &c. of the deceased parishioners, and were leaving the church-yard, when our attention was caught by the following admonitory stanza, engraven on a stone placed as a style into it. I copied it, •verbatim et literatim^ and present it to you as a good specimen of rustic poetry and ortho- graphy:— " Who Ever hear on Sonday ♦' Will Praais playing At Ball " it May be be Fore Monday " Tlie DevU will Have you all." t 22 ] As it is tedious and uninteresting to walk along a turnpike-road for any considerable time, we deviated from it on leaving Lanvair, and skirted the adjoining hills and fields. From hence we were gratified with a magnificent prospect to the north and west, over a beauti- ful and varied country swelling into lofty ele- vations, and sinking into fruitful vallies, watered by a winding river, ornamented with elegant villas, and nobly bounded by the black moun- tains. This scene continued to Usk, which we entered about seven o'clock; and reposed our- selves at the Three-Salmons Inn, after a walk of six and thirty miles. M'^e were soon sufficiently refreshed by a good dish of tea, to strole round the town, and visit its ruined castle, and are just returned, much pleased, from our ambulation. The situation of Usk is very pleasing, it being built on the banks of a broad and clear river of that name. A large stone bridge is thrown over this stream to the west of the village, from whence the view, both upwards and down- wards, is extremely striking. The history of Usk, you know, is in some measure connefted with classical antiquity, it having been a Ro- man station, mentioned in the Itinerary of An- C 23 ] toninus under the name oi Burrmm. Few re- cent particulars respefting it are handed dowr. to us, except that there was formerly a priory near it, (the remains of which may yet be seen, consisting of five Benedi6line Nuns, founded by the St. Clare family, in the early part of the thirteenth century, and endowed with lands to the annual value of seventy pounds. The ruin also of a noble castle, standing upon a hill to the north-west of the town, makes a venera- ble appearance. Its origin and history, how- ever, are buried in oblivion, and it remains a melancholy monument of the nullity of human labours i of the vanity of man's attempting to make himself a lasting name by the works of his hands. Your's, &c. R. W. M ^rccon b Skethrog v^^Crickhowell ^I.angtanach ^ Lanwcnarth Abergavenny a Lansanfrced font-y-Pool road &- Clytha. )U BettwS' Newydil ^ Castle Usk LETTER II. TO THE SAME. DEAR SIR, Brecon, Aug. i^fb. ^ I ^HE beauty of the morning tempted us to "*• rise at five, that we might reach Aberga- venny to breakfast. This is a system, indeed, which we mean to pursue through our expedi- tion, provided the weather encourage us to continue it; for we perfe6tly agree with our ad- mirable descriptive poet, in considering the [ 26 ] early hours of day as peculiarly calculated for . the contemplation of nature, and the enjoyment of rural scenery : — • *' Falsely luxurious, will not man awake, *' And, springing from the bed of sloth, enjoy ** The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour, " To meditation due, and sacred song? ** For is there ought in sleep can charm the wise ? — . " — Who would in such a gloomy state remain *• Longer than Nature craves, when every Muse, " And every blooming pleasure, wait without *' To bless the wildly-devious morning walk?" Having the Usk on our left hand, we pur^ sued its banks, as nearly as we could, without making any considerable deviation from the public way, and were gratified for our trouble by a most agreeable variety of scenery. We returned, however, to the road, about five miles from Abergavenny, in order to survey a gate-way now ere£ling as an entrance to the park of Clytha castle. It is an elegant piece of archite6lure, in the style of florid Gothic. We could not but agree, notwithstanding, that a building of greater simplicity would have been more judicious and appropriate to the other circumstances of the place. The present splen- did one leads us to expeft a mansion proper-^ [ 27 3 tionately superb; and we are, therefore, not a little disappointed on entering the park, and discovering the house, to find a comfortable and substantial one indeed, but neither of di- mensions nor architecture consistent with the highly-ornamented entrance through which we have just passed. The clock told nine as we entered Aberga- venny; and a walk of eleven miles rendered the excellent breakfast which we met with at the Angel inn particularly grateful. As it hap- pened to be market-day, we had a good oppor- tunity of observing the manners and appear- ance of the South-Wallians, many of whom are always collected together at this weekly meet- ing. We bent our course, therefore, to the forum, which we found tlironged with people, and filled with the hum of numberless voices. In truth, it was a busy, animated, interesting scene; and to us not a Httle strange, from the circumstance of a language being generally spoken there, which we had not previously heard. Hitherto we had met with nothing but English; but as the markets of large Welsh towns aj-e chiefly filled by the inhabitants of villages and hamlets from a considerable dis- tance round, which boast neither markets nor C 28 ] shops, the business of jthe day is transa6led in the language of the country. The cleanliness of the articles exposed to sale, and the neatness observable in the persons of the sellers, gave us the first favourable impression with respe6t to the Welsh chara£ler j for we cannot help think- ing that there is generally found to be a con- ' neftion between personal decency and ethical excellence, and that the effeft of cleanliness ex- tends to the morals of a man: " E'en from the body's purity, the mind ** Receives a secret, sympathetic aid." We were more especially pleased with the fe-* male part of the company. A round, candid, open countenance, illuminated by a brilliant complexion, dark eyes, and teeth of dazzling whiteness J and a certain indescribable naivete y (which happily blends archness and simplicity, a great deal of intelligence, with an equal share of modesty) give an air peculiarly agreeable and chara6teristical to the Welsh girls. Some degree of whimsicality arose from our question- ing these fair market-women relative to the prices of the various articles they sold, (of which we wished to acquire an accurate idea) and the difficulty that attended our being intelligible to. C 29 ] each other. The guttural sounds they uttered, {which even the voice and manner of a Welsh girl cannot render pleasing or harmonious) were totally tlirown av^ay upon our ignorance ; whilst the roughnesses and sibilisms of our own Saxon dialeft, only excited an arch laugh from these virgin descendants of the ancient Brit«ns. You will say, we displayed but a sorry taste in leaving this fair society, to visit some frag- ments of antiquity; but as we had much to do in a short time, it was necessary we should quit the busy spot for a very different scene, a scene of silence and desolation — the remains of Aber- gavenny castle. " The thistle shakes there its *' lonely head; the moss whistles to the wind, *' The fox looks out from the windows, the rank *' grass of the wall waves round his head. De- " solate is the dwelling of Moina, silence is in " the house of her fathers." This ruin, which was originally a Norman castle,* stands to the westward of the town, in such a situation as to command it compleatly. * Built, probably, by Hamelin Balon or Baladun, one of those who came over with the Conqueror, who also founded a priovy here, towards the conclusion of the eleventh century. To this re- ligious foundation the tithes of the castle were given in kind, tem- pore JolMmiiSf on condition that the Abbot of St. Vincent at Mans C 30 ] but has nothing in it striking or pifturesque^ no wood waving in its courts, no thickly-mant- ling ivy creeping round its walls. Its history is marked with infamy and treachery, and Giraldus Cambrensis records it to have been, " With many a foul and midnight murder fed;" As having been stained with more blood than any other castle of Wales. First by William son of Earl Miles, (Earl of Hereford) and after- wards by William Breosj both having upon, public assurance, and under pretence of friend- ship, invited thither some of the Welsh nobility, and then basely murdered them.* Aberga- venny itself occurs in the Itinerary of Antoni- nus, under the name of Gobannium, from which the present appellation is evidently derived, with the addition of the British prefix Aber, or harbour, and the alteration of a few letters. The road from this place to Crickhowel ap- peared very striking to us who are inhabitants of South-England, and conversant only with would send over thither a convent of Benedidline Monks. At the general suppression it was dissolved ; the house consisting of a; prior and four monks, and Its revenues amounting to 129I.5S. 8d* per annum Tanner's Notltia Monastica. * Camden, Monmouthshire^ C 31 ] the comparatively tame scenery of those parts. On reaching the first elevation from Aberga- venny, we turned round to contemplate the country we were passing through, which was now become mountainous, and gave us a foretaste of what we are to expe6t by and bye. Here we were struck with the ragged summit of Skirid Vawr, or Holy Mountain, rising to the east of the town, and the dark form of the Bloranch which lifts its proud head on the opposite side. The stupendous fissure that appears to the North of the former, gave rise to its name 3 tradition having impressed the belief upon the neigh- bouring country, that the chasm was produced at the period of our Saviour's crucifixion, v^'hen Nature herself was convulsed, and •" From her seat *' Sighing through all her works, gave signs of woe.'* As we proceeded, our progress was frequently retarded by numerous droves of black cattle from Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire, tra- velling towards the Passage, to be transported across the Severn, and driven to the markets of Bristol, and the other large towns of Somerset, Glocestershire, and Wilts. Here they are pur- chased by the grazier, and sent into the rich C 32 i pasturage of the southern vales to be fatted^ whiph cannot be efFe£ted in the country where they are bred. Large parties of reapers also, amounting in the whole to two or three hun- dred, met us on their way into Herefordshire and Glocestershire, for the harvest month j re- markable in the uniformity of their dress, which consisted of a jacket and breeches of thick striped flannel, the manufafture of the country, and dyed almost invariably of a light blue colour. Our walk to Crickhowel was further diver- sified by a Druidical remain, which occurred in a field to the right hand, at the fifteenth mile- stone from Brecon. It is a single upright stone, thirteen or fourteen feet high, and about five over. Standing quite alone, with nothing around or near it to lead to a discovery of its original designation, we can only conjecture that it was connefted with the religious wor- ship of the ancient Britons, of whose supersti- tion many stupendous examples of a similar nature are to be seen in almost every quarter of the kingdom. The castle of Crickhowel led us a little out of the road, and detained us some time in exa- mining its remains, and tracing its original plan. [ 33 ] Wales, indeed, appears to be an admirable field for the study of ancient military architefture; as almost every considerable town, and many inconsiderable villages, exhibit their respedive castles in greater or less preservation, the scene of the cumbrous magnificence and rude revelry of our forefathers, v^here the great lord for- merly lived in princely state, " Girt with many a baron bold,'* and exercising almost all the rights of sove- reignty, within the precin61:s of his demesne. Few remains of Crickhowel castle are to be seen, many neighbouring cottages having sprung from the stones purloined from its walls. They are, however, pleasingly circumstanced with ivy, and form, upon the whole, an interesting ruin. The Keep appears to have been a very secure building, seated upon a lofty artificial elevation, and displaying the foundations of a thick substantial wall. We now reached the Beaufort Arms, the village public-house, where we refreshed our- selves with the contents of the landlady's cup- board, and a bottle of cwrrWi or Welsh ale. This vvas the first time of our tasting the famous beverage of Wales ^ but I cannot say that it D [ 34 ] proved at all agreeable to our palates, though the Cambrians seek it with avidity, and quaff it with the most patient perseverance. Their ancestors, you know, displayed a similar pro- pensity eighteen hundred years ago; and the old Celt frequently sunk under the powerful influence of the ancient cwrrw* It was then,-|- as it is now, made from barley ; but the grain is dried in a peculiar way, which gives it rather a smoky taste, and renders it glutinous, heady, and soporiferous. As we passed on to Brecon, we observed about five miles from that town, in the hedge, on the left hand, a curious monument of the presence of the Romans in these parts. It is a sepulchral cipjius, somewhat cylindrical, and probably about six or seven feet long, inscribed with Roman chara6ters, rather rudely cut. Camden, I recolleft, speaks of this piece of antiquity as posterior to the Roman times, for what reason I know not, and describes the in- scription as follows, iV film ViBorini. Time, however, has committed such depreda- * Est et Occidentis populis sua ebrletas, fruge madida.— Plln. lib. xiv. f Ligures utuntur potu hordeaceo.—— Strabo, lib. iv. [ 3S J I tions upon it, that the only letters to be distin- guished now, are the first half dozen of the word FiBorini. The exercise of walking twenty-five miles under an August sun, had rendered us exceed- ingly thirsty, and we looked anxiously round for a farm-house, where we might procure a draught of new milk. At length a neat little dwelling peeped out of a coppice to the right of the road, and we hastened towards it. A huge and most ferociously-looking dog, how- ever, which rose up on our approach, and breathed a deep and threatening growl, warned us to preserve an awful distance. We hal- looed therefore at the gate of the court, in or- der to bring out the inhabitants of the mansion. After some time the garden wicket opened, and we saw a gigantic Welsh girl come for- ward, (a good companion to old Trusty at the door) hard as iron, and built like an Hercules, with a spade flung over her shoulder, which she had been using in the garden. We told our situation, and requested, with all the per- suasions we could urge, the refreshment of which we stood so much in need. But alas! all our eloquence was thrown away; the strap- ping Cambrian did not understand English, D 2 C 36 ] and " dym Sasna — I know nothing of Saxon,'' (a term of reproach which these ancient Britons apply to us, as the creatures of yesterday) was all the answer we could get to our representa- tion. A countryman, however, coming by at the time, we engaged him (for he fortunately spoke English) to be the interpreter between us and the damsel; and through him we again urged our request. But it was all in vain; the mistress ^yas absent from home, and had left the mastiff and girl in charge with the house, who seemed equally true to their trust; no blandishments being of any avail in soothing the former, nor the offer of a shilling sufficient to bribe the latter, to dispose of ought that be- longed to her mistress, without her knowledge and consent. Though disappointed of our ex- pefted refreshment, we could not but feel much pleased with the sturdy integrity of this domes- tic; and through our friend the interpreter, conveyed a tritie to her, together with a compli- ment on her fidelity, and a recommendation to her to continue in it. Half a mile further, how- ever, at a place called Skethrog, our application was more successful, and we were entertained by a decent looking matron, with milk fresh from the cow, and excellent bread and butter. C 37 3 after refusing a tankard of cider, or a bottle of ale. As cashier, I had drawn the strings of my purse, in order to make a pecuniary return for this seasonable favour; but I was saved the trouble of offering any thing, by the positive assurance of our hostess, that she would receive no acknowledgment, " as the traveller was " always welcome to any refreshment that her " dwelling could afford." We had heard much of Welsh hospitality, but heard it with that de- gree of infidelity which ignorance is so apt to produce; it gave us therefore no little pleasure to find it exemplified towards ourselves, in an instance of such disinterested kindness as would immediately have put us into good- humour with our species, had we been ever so much inclined to quarrel with it before. We reached Brecon sufficiently early to visit the town and its environs before the close of the evening. Like most other towns in Wales, this place is interesting rather from what it has been, than on account of what it now is. Du- ring the days of chivalry and papacy, it boasted a castle and a monastery, the imperfect ruins of which still evince the former extent and gran- deur of these edifices. They were both built in the reign of Henry the First, by Bernard de C 38 ] Newmarch, a Norman lord, who, a short time after the ere6lion of the castle, fomided near It a priory for six Benedi£tine Monks, and richly- endowed it with lands and tithes.* This was a common practice with the great barons in the feudal ages, who seem to have thought that the erection of a religious house in the immediate neighbourhood of their castles, operated as an absolution for all the afts of spoliation, rapine, and misrule, exhibited within the walls of them. The castle of Brecknock passed through the families of the Braoses and Bohuns, and after- wards into that of the Duke of Buckingham, a nobleman successively the friend, favourite, enemy, and vi6lim of Richard the Third. It was to this fortress that Moreton bishop of Ely was conveyed on his arrest by the usurper, and committed to the custody of Buckingham. The ingratitude of Richard, who, as soon as he was assured of his power, forgot the arm which had helped to vest him with it, raised the indigna- » To the vi'est of the town are the remains ^Iso of an ancient house of Black Monks, which Henry VIII. converted into a college, by the name of the College of Chrift-church in Brecknock, and joined the college of Aberguilly to it. It now consists of the Bishop of St. David's, who presides as dean, a precentor, ti-easurer, chancel- lor, and nineteen other prebendaries.— Tanner's Not. Monast. [ 39 ] tion of the Lord of Brecknock, and retiring to his castle, he there consulted with his prisoner on the means of wresting the sceptre from Richard, and returning it once more into the Lancastrian line. The plan was here digested, and eventually brought to a successful termina- tion; though very opposite fates attended the original formers of it. Buckingham was the aftive engine, and shortly after the commence- ment of his operations, being dete£ted and ta^ ken prisoner, he finished his restless and time- serving career on the scaffold. The bishop a6led the more judicious part, he escaped from the castle, kept quiet, and lived to become, in the ensuing reign, a privy counsellor, and to fill the metropolitan see of Canterbury. Part of the castle walls and some fragments of a tower remain; the latter is said to have been the apart- ment in which the bishop was confined, and is still called Ely tower. Vestiges of the priory are also to be seen, and the church formerly belonging to it is now used by the parishioners for public worship. It is a large building, but I should apprehend not older than the time of Henry the Fourth. Thtjiarvaise, or ambulatory, where the monks were wont to walk and me- ditate, lies to the east of the church, and is called [- 40 ] the Priory Walks. They have been long ap- propriated to the use of the inhabitants, and are wonderfully pleasant and romantic; shaded by noble trees, and watered by the loud brawling river Hondhy, which rolls at the foot of them, though so much hidden by wood, as only to be caught in occasional glimpses. On returning through the church-yard, we observed, for the first time, a number of epitaphs in the language of the country; and on hearing them translated by the person who conducted us round the town, were much struck with the simplicity of their sentiment and expression. Another custom also, that was equally new to us, caught our attention; the ornamenting of the graves of the deceased with various plant5- and flowers, at certain seasons, by the surviving relatives.* This last tribute of regard, this posthumous recolledion, is strikingly impres- sive; as it speaks diredly to a principle deeply rooted in the mind of man. To live in the rcr membrance of those we love, " when we go * It is generally done, I understand, during the festival of Easter, the resurredtion of our Saviour; and though of Pagan origin, the custom may have been appropriated by Christians to that day, to adumbrate the youth, vigour, and beauty, which the body will en- joy, " when this corruptible shall put on incorruption, and this «< mortal be clothed with immortality." [ 41 ] " hence, and are no more seen," is a natural wish; a wish implanted in our souls by that Being, who willed that we should be social creatures, and gave us all the kind atFe6iions of our nature: — ** For who, to dumb forgetfulness a prey, " This pleasing anxious being e'er resign'd, " Left the warm precinfls of the pleasing day, " Nor cast one longing, ling'ring look behind ? " On some fond breast the parting soul relies, " Some pious drops the closing eye requires; ** E'en from the grave the voice of Nature cries: " E'en in our ashes live their wonted fires." The pra6tice, you know, is a very ancient one, and may be traced back as high as classi- cal antiquity. Amongst the Greeks, {a lively and affeftionate people) the decoration of the sepulchres of their deceased connections, on particular days, was observed with the most rigid punftualityi and the plants and flowers used on the occasion were not unaptly termed EpcjTeg,* or the tributes of love and affeftion. The Romans also, who received in a great mea- sure their relif^ion from Greece, adopted this * Phavorin. Etyraolog. in verb. I 42 ] custom amongst other shewy and impressive superstitions; and appointed a certain season of the year when it should be more particularly- observed. It was during the month of February that the solemn rites of the feralia^ or honours paid to the manes of the departed, were per- formed, and the scattering of odoriferous plants and flowers upon their tombs formed one im- portant feature of these striking ceremonies. Virgil, you may recolleti:, qlludes to this affec- tionate pra6lice in some of the finest lines of his. TEneid; the very beautiful apostrophe to the shade of Marcellus, which so much aiTe6led the unfortunate 06lavia, and produced such an handsome pecuniary reward to the poet: ** Heii miserande puer ! si qua fata aspera rumpas, " Tu Marcellus eris. Manibus date lilia plenis : " Purpureos spargam flores, animamque nepotis " His saltern accumulem donis, et fungar inani " Munere." Lib. vi. 882, Our return to the inn (the Lion) was quick- ened by a shower of rain; and we are just pre- paring to discuss the events of our march, over Usk trout and Brecknockshire mutton. Your's, &c. R. W. Rhaiddar-Gowy 17 miles Cj Lyn-Gwynn Brecoa LETTER III. TO THE SAME. DEAR SIR, Rhaiddar-Gowyf Aug: i6tb. X yl THAT a multitude of adventures may be grasped within the narrow circle of a day, by those ramblers who have spirit to investigate ; curiosity to enquire; and attention to observe; who (according to the remark of a fellow-tra- veller) interest their hearts in every thing; and [ 44 ]' having eyes' to see what time and chance are perpetually holding out to them as they journey on their way, miss nothing they can fairly lay their hands on. In a country like this, where every thing we hear, and every thing we see, is entirely new to us, you may imagine this ob- servation is fully exemplified in ourselves. Be not surprised, therefore, should my letters sa- vour somewhat of the prolixity of Crispinus, and the garrulity of old Ashmole, the former of whom, you know, was tedious to a proverb i* and the latter so minute as to favour the world with the number of his sternutations in the course pf the day.f As the morning was rather unfavourable, we did not leave Brecon till nine o'clock, when the clouds breaking away, and the sun appearing, we set off for Rhaiddar-Gowy, a town at the distance of thirtv-two miles. The view of Brecon from the north is more agreeable and interesting than from any other point. It here appears a spacious and respeftable town, climb- ing the declivity and brow of an eminence, with the Usk winding at its feet, and the mountain Pennervaen, rough, precipitous, and dark, » Hor. Sat. lib.i. sat. i. i»o. -J- Ashmok's Life. C 4o- ] risin£r behind it to the south. Continuinjj our former plan, we deviated a little from the turn- pike-road, and strolled through the hay-fields, invited by their fragrance, the crop having been but lately carried in. It was not long, however, before we discovered we had wandered consi- derably from the road, and were perplexed by several tracks which crossed us in various direc- tions. At this moment C observed some hay-makers in a field at no great distance; and being a Thessalian in speed, he ran to enquire the path we should pursue. Fortunately, one of the company spoke English, who, sticking his fork in the ground, and throwing on his coat and waistcoat, came to us without delay. We immediately perceived there was charader m this man; a quick, dark eye, and sharp features, gave him that appearance of intelleft, which is seldom found to be belied upon further ac- quaintance. He enquired our destination and object, and, finding us neither shy nor reserved, declared he should have a pleasure in attending us part of the road to Rhaiddar, which was somewhat difficult for strangers io trace. " But/' continued he, " I cannot think of do- " ing this, gentlemen, till you have visited my *' cottage hard by, and tasted my ale, of which C 46 ] " I keep a good bottle for the refreshment of " my friends." The invitation was given with so much warmth and good-will, that we ac- cepted it without hesitation, and followed our guide to his residence. It was an humble dwelling, standing in the midst of a small but neat garden, under the side of a steep hill, shel- tering it from the blasts of the east and north. On entering the tenement, which consisted only of a ground floor, we found that it was divided into two apartments; the inner one containing a bed and four chairs, the outer displaying an infinite variety of heterogeneous articles; im- plements of destruftion, and books of divinity y culinary utensils, and apothecary's drugs; cob- ler's tools, and English classics; a cabinet and acupboard, tables and stools, chairs and benches. We were shaken by the hand and bidden to sit down; when our friendly condu6lor, opening the cabinet, produced a bottle and glasses, the shell of a good cheese, some brown bread, and oaten cake. After the bumper of good fellow- ship had gone round, mine host favoured us with his history, which he recounted with great spirit, and much humour, exhibiting a compleat example of that rare philosophy, which can meet the maladies of life with a smile, and rise C 47 ] superior to the blasts of casualty, and the frowns of fortune. His name, he told us, was Robert Lewis, and his family one of the best in Wales. Inclina- tion, he observed, led him to follow a [irofesston, but his friends thinking a trade likely to prove more advantageous, he was bound apprentice to a tanner. Happily or unfortunately, for he was doubtful in which light to consider it, a fair damsel (the daughter of a neighbouring hidal- go, who had more than an usual portion of na- tional pride) beheld him with complacency ^ and the regard being mutual, he eluded the vi- gilance of her parents, bore her off to a neigh- bouring church, and made her his wife. The idea of their fair relation being matched with a man in trade, was what her haughty kinsmen could not brook; the father's pride more espe- cially was sorely wounded, and the whole clan vowed to revenge the affront. Their first at- tempts were of a very hostile nature, and Lewis recounted a number of " hair-breadth 'scapes," and " most disastrous chances," which he had experienced from their malice ; being frequently shot at from ambuscades, or encountered at night on returning to his dwelling. None of these adventures, however, terminated fatally to [ 48 ] him, the aggressors In general coming off the worse, he being a man of great vigour, atlivity, and spirit. Finding their expectations disap- pointed, therefore, his enemies changed their plan of operations, and since they could not in- jure his person, they determined to destroy his fortune. Here they were at length successful, as art and cunning will ever be when opposed to candour and incaution. By a long series of malicious schemes, they ruined his business, blasted his credit, and drove him from the coun-; try where he was settled. " All this, however, " gentlemen," continued he, " hard as it may *' seem, I could have borne with patience, had " the efFefts of their vengeance extended no " further. But, alas ! they wounded me in a " tenderer part, they robbed me of my Letty ! " she died of a broken heart, and left me a wi- " dower, with four children. I confess, I had *' much difficulty in bearing up against this " blow, and I was on the point of sinking into " despair. A short time, however, and a little " refleftion, brought me to myself; I recollefted " that the partner of my heart was now much *' happier than I could have made her; that she " had left me many duties to perform; and that, «* in proportion to my difficulties and distresses. C 49 ] " should be my exertion and endeavours to re- " move them. I therefore arranged my affairs, " got into a smaller line of business, brought up " my children, and sent them into the world. " Having done this, and saved a trifle for a rainy " day, 1 left the busy haunts of men, and pur- " chased the cottage in which you now are; " where I experience as much happiness "as I " can hope for on this side of the grave. My "children, I bless God! all turned out well, " and are decently provided for; my health is " sound; my mind calm and serene; 'tis true " I have but little; my wants, however, are " proportioned to my means, and whilst I have " wherewith to procure a crust and a bottle of " ale for the refreshment of a friend, I care not " who possesses the riches and luxuries of life. " In short," said he, " I cannot express my " sentiments and situation better than in the " words of the poet;" and, snatching a book that lay by him, he read, with great spirit, the following copy of verses from Percy's Ancient English Poetry, his eye glistening all the while with the consciousness of independence, and seeming to say, « How vain the ardour of the croud! " How lonv, how indigent the proud! " How little are the great!" £ [ JO ] " My minde to me a kingdome is; " Such perfeft joye therein I finde, " As farre exceeds all earthly blisse, " That God or Nature hath assignde: " Though much I want what most would have, " Yet still my mind forbids to crave. " Content I live, this is my stay ; '' I seek no more than may suffice : " I presse to bear no haughtie sway; " Look what I lack my mind supplies. *' Loe! thus I triumph like a king, " Content with that my minde doth bring. *' I see how plentie surfets oft, " And hastie clymbers soonest fall: *' I see that such as sit aloft " Mishap doth threaten most of all; " These get with toile, and keep with feare: *' Such cares my minde could never beare. " No princely pompe, nor welthie store, *' No force to winne the viftorie, " No wylie wit to salve a sore, " No shape to winne a lover's eye; **' To none of these I yield as thrall, " For why!" my mind dispiseth alL " Some have too much, yet still they crave, " I little have, yet seeke no more; *• They are but poore, though much they havcj " And I am rich with little store : ** They poor, I rich; they beg, I give; '* They lacke, I lend ; they pine, I live. [ ^1 ] " I laugh not at another's loss, " I grudge not at another's gaine; " No worldly wave my mlnde can tosse, " I brooke that is another's bane: " I feare no foe, nor fawne on friend ; " I loth not life, nor dread mine end. " My welth is helth, and perfeft ease; " My conscience clear my chiefe defence ; " I never seeke by brybes to please, " Nor by desert to give offence ; " Thus do I live, thus will I die; *• Would all did so as well as I." It was with difficulty we prevailed on our hospitable host to allow us to pursue our jour- ney, after having finished the third bottle of his quadrimum. He insisted, however, on being our companion for a few miles, and putting us into the direft road to Bualt. When the period of separation arrived, he grasped us by the hand, and bid us heartily farewell, adding this parting benedi6lion: — " God bless you! gen- " tlemen, and may your journey through life be " as pleasant as your walk is likely to prove. " But should storms and difficulties await you, " remember that a clear conscience, an inde- pendent spirit, and a reliance on Providence, will enable you to brave them all, and bring you happily home at the last." [ .52 ] (iur attention was not particularly awakened by any circumstance till within a mile of Bualt, when we passed (on the turnpike-road) a bridge thrown over a mountain brook, the scenery around which is very striking; a rent or fissure of the mountain, formed probably by some na- tural convulsion, opens to the left, through which a torrent throws itself over a bed of stones. The sides of the chine are rocky and abrupt, but finely softened and relieved by trees of various sorts, which are sprinkled over the face of the rock, and descend in many spots quite to the edge of the stream. It was on the banks of this river, but further to the north- ward, that the decisive battle was fought be- tween the gallant Llewellyn, the last prince of Wales, and the forces of Edward the First. The Cambrian chieftain, it seems, was not pre- sent at the commencement of the a6lion, which otherways might have terminated favourably for him. Edmund Mortimer and John Gifford the English commanders, understanding that Lle- wellyn had retired from his host, in order to confer with the Radnorshire chieftains, led their men to the attack, and the first notice of the event which reached the Prince's ear, was brought to him by his own flying troops. All C 53 ] that a brave leader, and an experienced soldier, could efFe6t in such a situation, Llewellyn per- formed; he rallied his men, led them again to the conflict, and animated them by his own ex- ample. Fate, however, had decreed that his efforts should be ineffeftual; his army was en- tirely routed, and the spear of Adam de Franc- ton pierced his heart whilst he was performing prodigies of valour, and happily prevented him from surviving the lost liberties of his country. The body of the Prince, covered with honour- able wounds, was discovered, and dispatched to Edward at Conway, who received it with a savage joy. After having sated his fury by of- fering many marks of ignominy to the lifeless remains, he sent them to London, where the citizens exceeded even their monarch in bruta- lity, exhibiting an instance of that ferocity and want of feeling with which a system of war is found to stain a national character. They car- ried it through Cheapside upon the point of a lance, decorated with a silver crown j then placed it in the common pillory, and afterwards exposed it on the highest part of the tower of London. " Such a barbarous triumph over the , " body of a brave prince, (as the historian pro- " perly observes) who died in the defence ot [ 54 ] " his liberty and independence, reflects disgrace ";upon the memory of the vi6tor; and the re- " joicings that were made at his death transmit " his encomium to posterity." We passed through the small and neat town of Bualt, or Builth, without halting, as it con- tains nothing that deserves particular attention. Like the other towns of Wales, it was anciently protected by a castle ; but of this it may be said — etiam periere ru'tna — for the scite of the keep, or dongeon, is the only notification of its former existence. Here we first met with the cele- brated river Wve, on the banks of which the town is built. This beautiful, meandring stream, the theme of poets, and the fruitful sub- ject of tourists, bursting from the top of the mountain Plimhimmon in Montgomeryshire, pursues its capricious and sinuous course through Radnorshire, Brecknockshire, Here- fordshire, Monmouthshire, and Glocestershire ; and after receiving numberless tributary streams, and exhibiting the richest variety of pi6turesque scenery in a track of two hundred and eighty miles, empties itself into the Severn a little be- low the town of Chepstow. The bridge thrown over this river to the north end of Builth, de- fines the limits of two counties, the one half [ 5^ ] •fit being in Brecknockshire, and the other in Radnorshire. Leaving this on our left, we pursued the road to Rhaiddar, which runs over the hill to the eastward of the river. We had not proceeded more than a mile, before the scenery of the Wye became too interesting to be passed with transient observation; we there- fore threw ourselves on its eastern bank under the shade of a friendly aspin tree, to contem- plate its beauties at leisure. At this spot the view is particularly striking. The river ap- pears at our feet, dashing and roaring through a bed of huge, misshapen rocks, and forming, in its struggles, numberless whirlpools, eddies, and small cascades. A bank, rude, abrupt, and bare, rises before us, pleasingly contrasted by the verdant and wooded declivity opposite to it. As the eye roves up the river, it catches softer beauties; the sides become less preci- pitous, and more thickly clothed with trees. The woods at length descend to the brink of the stream, which, making a quick turn at the distance of a mile, is suddenly lost in a deep mass of shade. The back ground is formed by the mountains of Montgomeryshire, whose lofty summits rise into the clouds, and ^ive a mae- nihcent finishing to the scene. It was not [ 56 ] , vvkhout regret that we quitted this spot to pur- sue our walk, admonished by the consideration of our having sixteen miles further to go, and the sun being within two hours of " the place of his rest." In truth, we-soon discovered that we had already been too dilatory; the day be- ginning to close, attended with no very agreeable circumstances. It was an evening of Ossian; and the scenery around rendered his description very appropriate. " Autumn is dark on the " mountains; grey mist rests on the hills. The " whirlwind is heard on the heath. Dark rolls " the river through the narrow plain." In pro- portion as the light of day faded from us, the roads became more rocky, unequal, and abomi- nable. A considerable quantity of rain had fallen a few hours before, which filling up the numberless inequalities with which these stony ways abound, we continually plunged into pools of mud, and stumbled over rocky fragments, alternately hazarding the pains of suffocation, and the frafture of our limbs. This very agree- able amusement continued till half past nine o'clock, when we were blessed with the sight of a rush-light glimmering through the window of the Angel inn, which we entered about two hours ago. Our first appearance was made in C 57 ] the kitchen, where a scene was exhibited that would have afforded an admirable subjeft for the pencil of Hogarth. A large table covered with rounds of beef, loins of pork, fragments of geese, &c. &;c. appeared at one end, round which was seated a motley groupe of noisy- Welsh rustics, who voraciously devoured the good things before them. Opposite to these were two ilcotch pedlars, eating their frugal repast in silence, an oaten cake, and rock-like cheese, and diluting it with " acid tiffj" their eyes rivetted in wistful gaze, on the substantial fare which smoked on the adjoining table. The middle of the kitchen was occupied by a number of sportsmen just returned from growse- shooting on the mountains, cleaning their guns, and preparing them for the morrow's amuse- ment. In the back ground flamed an enormous fire, where a counterpart of dame Leonarda was preparing another set of joints, for a second party of sportsmen who were just arrived. Tired pointers and snoring spaniels were scat- tered over the floor, and completed the pi61:ure. Notwithstanding the disadvantageous figure we made, (for to confess the truth we were mar- vellously toul) and the numerous guests who called on the mistress of the house in all direc- [ 58 ] tions, we met with an attention and civility from Mrs. Evans (the hostess) that will always claim our grateful remembrance. We were shewn into a snug little room, and speedily re- galed with a sumptuous supper. To check, however, in some measure, the pleasure which arose from the comparison of our present situa- tion with what we had experienced in the last six miles of our walk, we were given to under- stand, that only one of us could be accommo- dated with a bed in the house, and that the other must sleep at a cottage a quarter of a mile distant from it. Sad news this, to tired travel- lers, on a stormy night! Something, notwith- standing, was to be done, and one of us must brave the pelting of a pitiless storm that rattled against the casements. — JaEla sit alea. — We de- termined to toss up for the chamber at the Lion, and fortune has just declared in favour of C . I am not apt to grieve at the success of another, but I confess I never felt more inclined to quar- rel with the fickle goddess for her decision, than on the present occasion, when a long walk through execrable roads has almost deprived me of the faculty of loco-motion. Your's, &;c. R. W. f£l DevU's-Bridge N Havod ,c^ Pcntre Rliaiddar [ra] LETTER IV. TO THE SAME. DEAR SIR, Devil' s-Bridge, Aug. j-jth. ^ I ''HIS has been a day of beauties, wonders, •*- and horrors J and though including the shortest walk we hdve hitherto taken, has ex- hibited a greater variety of extraordinary and impressive scenery, than we have witnessed since our departure from Bath. At eight o'clock we had finished our breakfast, paid our very reasonable bill, and quitted the town of Rhaid- dar.* Our road first condu61:ed us over a mo- * In enquiring for this place it is necessary for the traveller to pronounce it Rhaithary as, in Welsh, the double to Llanidlos Lyn-hen- Rhaider ^^^3 Copper-Mine Lead-Mine \*} Mountains Plimhimmon Lyn-llygad-Rhydol Pont-Tyrwyd 'to LUnidlos Aberystwyth Road'^'^Devii's-Eridge I LETTER V. TO THE SAME. Devil' s-Bridgr, Friday Morning DEAR SIR, Nine o'clock. Could almost say with the unfortunate CJarence, " O, I have pass'd a miserable night, " So full of fearful sounds, of ugly sights, " That as I am a Christian faithful man, " I would not spend another such a night, " Though 'twere to buy a world of happy days; *' So full of dismal terror was the time." C 76 ] I have already observed to you, that as the rooms of the inn had all been engaged before our arrival, C and I were obliged to sleep at a house some distance from it, the only private one in this wild and solitary neighbourhood. Flattering ourselves that the tempest would de- crease, we passed the time till the clock told ten, very agreeably, at our comfortable quarters, in the company of a gentleman and two ladies, who obligingly invited us to share their sitting- room, and join their party. Finding, however, that the storm rather increased than abated, we determined to brave its fury, and seek our lodging. We therefore prevailed upon a pos- tillion to accompany us, and the terrified cham- bermaid who carried linen for our bedsj and, thus conducted, commenced our expedition. But never shall I forget the sublimity of the scene which presented itself to us when we reached the Devil's-Bridge. The winds seemed to blow, with all their rage, from all their quar- ters. The thunder rattled through the sky in peals, loud, successive, and almost uninter- rupted. The cataracts which tumbled beneath us, strengthened by the accumulation of waters produced by a torrent of rain, added to the din by thcjr ceaseless, aggravated roarj whilst the [ 77 ] lightning bursting occasionally from the pitchy mantle which curtained the whole hemisphere, at one moment displayed all the gloomy hor- rors of the scenery around us, and in the next left us involved in impenetrable darkness. It was the tempest described by the poet; and the circumstances of the neighbouring country were happily appropriate to his description:— " Wide-rent, the clouds ** Pour a whole flood: and yet, its flame unquench'd, " Th' unconquerable lightning struggles through *' Ragged and fierce, or in red whirling balls, ** And fires the mountains with redoubled rage. ** The gloomy woods *' Start at the flash, and from their deep recess " Wide-flaming out, their trembling inmates shake. *' Amid Carnarvon's mountains rages loud " The repercussive roar: with mighty crash *' Into the flashing deep, from the rude rocks •♦ Of Penmaenmaur, heap'd hideous to the sky, " Tumble the smitten clifi"sj and Snowdon's peak ** Dissolving, instant )'ields his wintry load. ** Far- seen the heights of heathy Cheviot blaze, ** And Thule bellows through her utmost isles." It was not without difficulty and danger that we reached our destination: the violence of the wind impeding our progress, and the chasm which we skirted, liidden by the surrounding [ 78 3 gloom, rendering every step perilous. On our arrival at the mansion (which was nothing more than a large farm-house) we were received by a stout Welsh female, who conduced us in silence, for she could speak no EngHsh, through a long passage, to our respeftive apartments. The first defe6l that I discovered in mine, was the want of shutters and curtains to exclude the vivid lightning which darted through the win- dow every minute. I threw myself, notwith- standing, into bed, and fell immediately asleep. My mind, however, had been so struck by the terrific scenery of the day, and the awful cir- cumstances of the night, that the impressions which they had excited still remained strongly marked upon it; and fancy, (according to the philosophy of the poet)* taking advantage of * " But know that in the soul ** Are many lesser faculties, that serve " Reason as chief j among these Fancy next *' Her office holds; of all external things, *' Which the five watchful senses represent j *' She forms imaginations, airy shapes, ** Which Reason joining or disjoining, frames *' All what we affirm, or what deny, and call *' Our knowledge or opinion ; then retires ** Into her private cell when nature rests. *' Qft in her absence mimic Fancy wakea i: 79 3 the hour when reason reposes herself, conjured up ten thousand horrible shapes j " All monstrous, all prodigious things, •* Abominable, unutterable, and worse, " Than fables yet have feign'd, or fear conceiv'd, ** Gorgons, and Hydras, and Chimseras dire.'* In short, my friend, I woke in the horrors, just time enough to observe, by the glare of a flash of hghtning, an objett, black and huge, glide softly out of my room. *' Obstupui, steteruntque coma?, et vox faucibus haesit." Almost at the same moment several deep groans, which seemed to proceed from the ad- joining passage, reached my ear. I honestly confess I am no hero, and therefore felt a consi- derable degree of alarm, though I did not know exa6lly what to fear. I started out of bed, however, and grasping my faithful oaken staff, sallied into the passage, with a view of commu- nicating to C what I had seen and heard. But before I proceeded three steps without the door, my nose encountered some hard projecting *< To imitate her; but misjoining shapes, <' Wild works produces oft, and most in dreams, *' III matching words and deeds long past or late." Milton's Par. Lost. C 80 I substance so violently, as nearly to level me with the floor. Corporal anguish quickly ba- nished mental alarm; I returned to my room, and barricading the entrance with a table and chair, (for there was no latch or fastning) crept again into bed, where, after a time, sleep once more wrapt me in forgetfulness. Morning developed the mystery of the apparition and noise; a large, black sheep-dog, which I saw upon the stairs, accounting sufficiently for the one; and a patient in a violent paroxysm of the tooth-ache, explaining the cause of the other. On our return to the inn we again visited the Scenery of the Devil's-Bridge, which had re- ceived additional grandeur from the deluges of the night. The view of the falls was less dis- tinct, and consequently more sublime, than on the preceding day; a mist floated over the abyss, arising from the foaming troubled waters be- low, which prevented us from seeing the cata- racts in detail, and gave to the eye one unbroken whole of dreadful majesty. Upon this cloud of vapour, the sun, occasionally bursting out, threw its light ; and the rays being refracted from the spherical drops which composed it, produced the effeft of a vivid rainbow, and added inexpressible beauty to the scene. [ 81 ] The attentive and obliging host has just pro^ vided us with our excellent breakfast j and when we have dispatched it, we shall cross the mountains to Machynlleth, where I purpose to finish my present epistle. Machynlleth,'^ 8 o'clock Friday Eveyimg, WE have at length completed a tiresome walk of twenty-five miles, over mountains bleak, barren, and boggy, enlivened with few objefts to interest or delight. Having engaged a guide to accompany us, we left the Hafod Arms about ten o'clock, and pursued (what the Welsh af- fect to call) the tunifiike to Llanidlos for a mile and half. Here a bridle-road branches oflf, to the left, by which we descend to a small ham- let called Pont-ar-wyd, or wide bridge, from an accommodation of that kind thrown over the river Ryddol. During this short distance we were amused by numberless catarafts, pouring from the mountains in all direftions, occasioned by the copious rains of the night, which we had * This place is pronounced Mahunkletb, the c dropping it» oower, the J* assuming the sound of z<, and the double // having the force of chl or kl, G [ 82 ] b6en deprecating from the first moment they fell J but without which, half the beauty of this mountainous scenery would have been lost to US; so true is it, that by those who are inclined to search for the good contained in apparent evil, every inconvenience will be found to be attended by its commensurate advantage. Ten miles from the Deyirs-Bridge, we passed the foot of " huge Plimhimmon" the fruitful father of rivers, from whose " cloud-capt head" flow the vagarious Wye, and noble Severn, with other less important streams. There is nothing either picturesque or fantastic in the form of this mountain; but, rising with dignity above the neighbouring elevations, it conveys the idea of massy solidity, and substantial majesty. Our guide now conduced us by the side of two large lead-mines, and a copper-mine, where we saw the process of extracting, cleansing, stamp- ing, and dressing the ore, performed in a man- ner similar to what I have observed in a former letter. At a short distance from this spot, after climbing a steep hill, we were suddenly sur- prised with a magnificent mountain scene. The jagged head of Cader-Idris, and the soli- tary summit of Snowdon, make conspicuous figures in the picture, which is rendered cojn- C 83 ] pleat in Its kind by the " thousand subject hills" of all shapes and forms that rise around them. This noble prospect was but of short duration ; we soon descended into a boggy bottom, that continued till within three miles of Machyn- lleth, when a rugged carriage-road received, and conducted us into the town. The situation of this place is extremely pleasing, watered by the broad and crystaUine Dovy; surrounded by verdant meadows, and sheltered from the winds by lofty mountains on every side. In this se- questered spot did the great Welsh hero, Owen Glendower, assemble the States of the Princi- pality in 1402, and accept from their hands the crown of Wales, of w^hich his first successes leemed to promise him the eventual possession. His career, however, had nearly been checked in an early stage, by the treachery of Sir David Gam, the mortal enemy of Owen, who intended to murder him whilst conferring with his chief- tains in the parliament of Machynlleth. For- tunately, the design was detected, and GleriJ- dower, contrary to the spirit and praftice of th^ times, had the generosity and fortitude to for- give the traitor. We have been shewn the old, barn-like house, in which this memorable synod was convened, by aa attendant at our inn, (the C S4 ] Wynne Arms) who, as we approached it, gra- dually warmed into an enthusiastic strain of eulogy on the character of the old warrior. The persuasion of portents having attended his birth, and of his being a proficient in the art of ma- gic, had been impressed upon the mind of our guide by tradition, and his absurd stories brought to our recollection that description of himself which the muse of Shakespeare has put into the mouth of Owen: — '*■ At my nativity, " The front of Heaven was full of fiery shapes, " Of burning cressets ; and, at my birth, " The frame and tlie foundation of the eartli " Shak'd like a coward. — — " I can call spirits from the vasty deep, " And teach thee, cousin, to command the devil." Favoured and protected by Richard the Second, to whom he had been squire of the body, Owen continued the firm friend of this unfortunate monarch to the termination of his miseries 3 and having been contumeliously treated by Richard's sucessor, he boldly took arms, and laid claim to the crown of Wales, as lineal descendant of the great Llewellyn. For fifteen years did he pursue his claim with various success, in oppo- sition to ali the efforts of Heaxy the Fourth, C 85 ] and his warlike son; at length, however, death ^ put a period to his hopes and fears, at the house ' of his daughter on the 20th of September, 141 5, in the sixty-first year of his age. The generous attempt of Owen was not indeed crowned with success, but his name still lives in the recolle6tion of his grateful countrymen, who venerate him as the last assertor of their liberties, the last hero of Cambria, Your's, &c. R. W. m to Dinas-y-Mouddy Cider. :">". ^- Pool of three Gr»ii» ir fortynate consequence of the war we are en- [ 89 ] gaged in, which has, in the Principality, raised the article of butcher's meat above one hundred per cent, and added, in an unprecedented man- ner to the expence of every article of life.* In our way through the town we looked into its church, the door of which stood open, an ill- built, misshapen edifice. At the western end of it was a large gallery where thirty or forty boys, the lads of the town and neighbourhood, were instrufted in writing and reading both Welsh and English, during the summer r^onths. We found this pratlice had been observed here for some years, a circumstance that accounted for our own vernacular tongue being more ge- nerally spoken at Machynlleth, than in many other towns at a less distance from EnHand. We passed the Dovy, which flows to the north of Machynlleth and divides it from Merioneth- shire, over an old stone bridge, from which we were gratified by a sight entirely new to us, the management of coracles, and the mode of fishing from them. These little water conveyances are, you know, of high antiquity, receiving their * We found this to be the case entirely through Wales. Till within these six years, mutton was to be bought at 2d. and 2 Jd. per pound, and other meat in proportion; now j^d. and 6d. are com- monly given for good joints from Usk to Conway. [ 90 ] name from the coria, or skins, with which thev were originally covered. They have now indeed dropt their right to this appellation; a coarse, pitched canvas being substituted as a coating in the room of leather. Intended to carry only one person each, they are not more than five feet long, and four broad, rounded at the cor- ners, and constru61ed of wicker work; and are consequently sufficiently light to be conveyed on the back of the fisherman to his home when the labour of the day is concluded. Simple as this construction is, we find the ancient Britons encountered the waves of the ocean in them, voyaging in their zvicker baskets covered with ka^ tker to the island Miftis^* a perilous underta- king, whether the name be applicable to the Isle of Wight, or to one of the Cassiterides. The man who manages the coracle is seated ex- actly in the centre of it, and directs its motion by the a6tion of a small paddle, with which it is truly astonishing how compleatly he com- mands this apparently aukward vessel. Two coracles usually go together in order to assist each other in fishing; an operation of singular ad- * Ad earn (insulam) Britannos 'vhilibus nai'igijs corio circumiutis ■avigare Plin. Hist. I. 4, c. 16, dress and activity, the right hand being em- ployed all the time in paddHng, the left hand in conducing the net, and the teeth in holding the line attached to it. We now entered a deep vale, whose beauties are so multiplied and various, that I really feel myself unable to describe them with any de- gree of justice. The first objeft that led us from the road was a roaring catara6t, on our left hand, formed by th'fe torrent of the Dyflas, which flings itself with foaming precipitation down this valley. Another more important cascade, oii the same stream, occurred before we had proceeded two miles further. Here the river, struggling through its craggy bed, falls suddenly from a ledge about fifteen feet in height, and dashes through a deep and perpen- dicular rocky chasm, the sides of which are scooped into semicircular excavations by the ceaseless a6tion of the water. The pure trans- parency of this delicious stream is such, that the smallest pebble may be clearly seen at the depth of fifteen feet, and we more than once distinguished the rapid course of the trout through it, when v^-e were thirty or forty yards above its level. From hence for three miles the road winds through a country exquisitely [ 92 ] beautiful. On the left the Dyflas is seen bro- ken into a thousand cascades, now foaming through its stony channel, and now leading its more tranquil waters by verdant meads and flowery banks. A steep hill, luxuriantly co- vered with timber trees, shoots up to a tower- ing height beyond it, and is opposed by eleva- tions equally stupendous on the right hand, from whose precipitous sides craggy rocks, of enormous magnitude and fantastic form, beetle over the road in a most tfemendous manner. This scene was a proper prelude to the view- that opened to us at the seventh mile stone from Machynlleth, when Cader-Idris, the ma- jestic father of the Merionethshire mountains, appeared in all his grandeur, literally lifting his black precipice: above the clouds. Animated with an impatient desire to explore the won- ders of this mountain, we took an hasty view of Tallyllyn pool, a beautiful lake at the south- ern foot of Cader-Idris, and passed on to a pub- lic-house at Minsfordd-Tallyllyn, where we had been dire6ied to procure a guide. The master of it, Edward Jones, a Welshman, whose na- tural ingenuity had been sharpened into cunning by a long residence in England, after some little instances of imposition, introduced to us a C 93 ] person as our companion and conduclor over tliQ mountain. Having therefore provided our* selves with some necessary articles of refresh* ment, we set out, attended by our new acquaint- ance, Mr. David Pughe, a thick-set little Cambrian between fifty and sixty. We soon found he was a character. His pompous man- ner and affected dignity were ti/uly diverting, and the triumph with which he dwelt on the antiquity of his family afforded a whimsical ex- ample of that harmless pride which the M^'^elsh, with all their excellencies, possess in a higher degree than any of their neighbours. The founder of his stock was, he assured us, an hero who flourished some ages before the Christian epoch J and he affirmed, it appeared by an ela- borate genealogy which was made out about three years since, that his race had flowed in an uninterrupted stream for no less than three thousand years ! Leaving the usual road of ascent, we visited a torrent that rushed down the southern side of the mountain, and formed in its course a series of very pleasing cascades. We followed its acclivities, and after an hour's hard labour, reached the vale in which it had its, origin, a deep recess called Dolydd-Cay. Here the [ 94 ] heights of Cader-Idris began to shut us in, and seclude us from the sight of every thing but its own lofty precipices. Our walk had not as yet afforded us the sight of the indigenous animal of the country, the goat; we saw them, how- ever, now in perfection, skipping amongst the crags of Cader-Idris, in their original ferine state. Not that they are unclaimed property, since they all belong to some one or other of the neighbouring farmers; but as the proprietor does not use them for domestic purposes, and leaves them to wander for months unmolested, theymaybe said to preserve the charafter of their natural wildness. Such is the extent of the mountain, that they are caught with the utmost difficulty, when winter renders it proper to take them home; and the only mode of effecting this, is by pursuing them with cur dogs, which, after a considerable time, literally tire them down. Here too we were desired to observe the rocky coverts where the foxes (numerous amongst these cliffs) took refuge from their blood-thirsty pursuers; and shuddered, whilst Pughe, who was himself " a mighty hunter," gave us an account of those desperate chaces; which dogs and men follow, through regions that no lowlander can behold without terror. i\ Z 95 2 The sport, however, to those who enjoy it di- vested of fear, must be mo»t glorious and ani- mating. The rocks and precipices re-echo the united sounds of huntsmen, dogs, and horns, and a chorus is formed singular, striking, and indescribable. Another half hour brought us into a second valley called Cwm-y-cay, a deep hollow in the heart of the mountain, shut in to the north, west, and south, by huge rocks of porphyry, and black perpendicular precipices of five and six hun- dred feet in height. The centre of this coomb . v/>i, is filled by a clear and extensive lake, of unfa- thomable depth, which, together with other surrounding circumstances, give the whole hol- low the appearance of an ancient volcanic cra- ter. This piece of water is called Lyn-cay, and according to the account of our companion, covers fifty acres, and is filled with trout of large size and exquisite flavour. Skirting the southern margin of this pool with some difficulty, we picked up, amongst the fragments of rocks, several specimens of fine calcareous spar, and added to our plants the ^edum rupestrCy and Narthedum ossifragum; and at length approached a dark, beetling rock, of shaggy aspe^ and tremendous height, which [ 96 ] Stands entirely detached from the neighbouring chfF. Its real name is Craig-cay, but our guide, with a pardonable vanity, had christened it af- ter himself, and assured us it was called Pughes Jiinnacle. Here we were delighted with the magical effects. of a fine echoj a howl, or in- deed any other sound delivered loudly and de- liberately, is reflefited ffom one surface of the rock to another in several repercussions, at one time very clearly and distinftly heard; then fading away to a distant whisper 3 and again returning upon the ear as if emitted from a neigh- bouring crag. Arriving at the extremity of the pool, we began to ascend the western sum- mit of Cader-Idiis, a task not only of labour, but of some peril also, it being a different route from that which travellers usually pursue; six hundred feet of steep rock, covered, indeed, with short grass, but so slippery as to render the footing very insecure. As we approached the top, the ascent became more abrupt, whilst the scene below us, of craggy rocks, perpendi- cular precipices, and an unfathomable lake, did not operate to lessen the alarm that a person, unaccustomed to so dangerous a situation, na- turally feels. Our companion the mountaineer skipped on, the mean while, with the agility of t 97 ] a goat, and whilst C and I were dumb with terror, descanted on the beauties of Cader- Idris, the excellence of its mutton, and the de- licacy of its trout, as coolly as if he had been in the public-house where we originally found him. At length, after excessive labour, and repeated efforts, we gained the top of this noble mountain, and were at once amply recom- pensed for all the fatigue and alarm of the as- cent. The afternoon was gloriously fine, and the atmosphere perfectly clear, so that the vast unbounded prospeft lay beneath us, unobscured by cloud, vapour, or any other interruption to the astonished and delighted eye j which threw its glance over a varied scene, including a cir- cumference of at least five hundred miles. To the north-west is seen Ireland, like a distant mist upon the ocean; and a little to the right, Snowdon and the other mountains of Caernar- vonshire. Further on, in the same dire-ftion, the Isle of Man, the neighbourhood of Chester, Wrexham, and Salop; the sharp head of the Wrekin, and the undulating summit of the Clee hills. To the south we have the country round Clifton, Pembrokeshire, St. David's, and Swan- sea; and to the westward, a vast prospe£l of the British Channel unfolds itself, which is [ 98 ] bounded only by the horizon. Exclusive ot these distant objects, the nearer views are won- derfully striking. Numberless mountains, of different forms, appearances, and elevation, rise in all dire61;ions around us; which, with the va- rious harbours, lakes and rivers, towns, villages, and seats, scattered over the extensive prospe6l, combine to form a scene inexpressibly august, diversified, and impressive. Having refreshed ourselves with the contents of a knapsack car- ried by our companion, we proceeded, in an east- ern direftion, to the Pen-yr-Cader, the highest peak of the mountain, passing on our left the Saddle of the giant Idris, (from whom the moun- tain receives its name) an immense cwm, its bottom filled with a beautiful lake called Llyn- Cair, and its sides formed by perpendicular cliffs at least I GOO feet in height. Here we found the Alpine grasses, the Aim CasJiUosa, and the Toa Aljiina; beautiful masses of spar, specimens of pyritce, and a stone much resembling that volcanic substance called pumice-stone. We were now upon the apex of the second moun- tain in Wales, in point of height, and 2850 feet above the green, near the neighbouring tow^n of Dolgelly. The air, notwithstanding the rays of an unclouded sun beamed upon us, was pier- [ 99 2 fingly cold J and as our preceding fatigue had produced a profuse perspiration, we quickly found ourselves chilly and uncomfortable. Ha- ving therefore extended our walk half a mile beyond the Pen, and taken a view of two other lakes, Lyn-Mullyn, the Lake of Three Grains, and Lyn-Gawar, or Goat's-pool, we turned about in order to descend the northern side of the mountain. From the rude heap of adventitious stones which form what is called the bed of the giant, for several hundred yards, the mountain wears a singular appearance. Its surface is co- vered with a stream of rocky fragments of dif- ferent magnitude, and lying in all directions, their shape for the most part columnar and quadrangular, and many being from three to seven feet in length. All of them bear the marks of attrition, and probably were thrown into their present rude, disjoined situation, by that great convulsion of nature, when " the " fountains of the great deep were broken up, " and the windows of heaven were opened.'* Having waded through this flood of stones, and reached the track that leads to Dolgelly, we parted with our good-humoured, whimsical condu61or, and winded slowly down the northern side of Cader-Idris, after spending six [100] hours amidst its stupendous scenery. We reached the Golden Lion at eight o'clock, and are preparing to refresh ourselves after the se- verest fatigue we have yet experienced. Your's, &c. R. W. Beddgelert Pont-aber-gUw Lynn Moelwyn Mountain Tan-y-Bwlch O^Fesfmiog Maentwrog.Trausfynnydd Jk,^—-,^ n^Pewtreet Chapel Cayn and Mouddach Cascades Dolgelly LETTER VII. TO tHE SAME. DEAR SIR, Beddgelert J Aug. i^fb. T X 7E rose earlier than usual this morning, ' ^ after a most comfortless night; during which we had been tormented by fleas, and nearly suffocated by the closeness of a room nine feet by five and a half, into which were crammed two beds, a table, and a chair. Fa- tigue is, indeed, a powerful opiate, and we [ 102 ] dropt asleep notwithstanding all the inconve- niences of our situation. Nature, however, took only as much repose as was absolutely ne- cessary for her restoration, and we were awake and up with the first glimpse of day. We had enquired over-night, whether the service of the church were performed at Dolgelly in Welsh or English, and finding it to be in an unknown tongue, we determined to reach Maentwrog (about twenty miles distant) as early as possible, that we might attend the chapel there in the afternoon; where, we were told, it was likely the English Liturgy would be read. Having paid our bill, therefore, we left Dolgelly at six o'clock. The situation of this place is very agree- able, watered by the river Onion, and standing in the midst of fertile meadows. It receives some importance also from being a market for Welsh flannels, which are manufaftured in the neighbouring villages, and brought here to be disposed of at the fairs of Dolgelly, to the deal- ers who. resort hither for the purchase of them. The famous Ow^en Glendovi^er conferred no small dignity on this place, by assembling his parliament here in the year 1404, when he formed an alliance with Charles king of France. The prosperous stat^of his affairs at that time C 103 3 is sufficiently obvious, from the language of the deed appointing John Hanmer and Griffith Yonge to be his ministers in the business, which runs in this right royal style: — Owimis Deigratid Jirinceps Wallia ; and concludes. Datum apud Doleguelii lo die mensis Mail MCCCC quarto ei Jirinci/iatus nostri quarto* About a mile from Dolgelly we turned into a narrow lane to the right, in order to take a passing view of the ruined Abbey of Ketnmer, a Cistertian monasteiy dedicated to St. Mary, and founded by an unknown patron about th» year 1200. At the Dissolution it was valued only at 51I. 13s. but it seems probable that it* property must have decreased considerably (a circumstance which the ecclesiastics seldom al- lowed to take place) prior to that event, as in the year 1231, during the wars between Henry III. and the prince of Wales, the Abbot of Kemmer was content to give the English 300 markis (a very large sum at that period) in or- der to save this monastery from conflagration.f We were much disappointed when we reached the objeft of our search; the ruin is a triffing one, and has nothing in it either beautiful, so- * Peanaijt, North-Wales. f Tanner, Not. Mon. 715. [ 104 ] lemn or picturesque. The rain now came on very heavily, and, after passing the bridge that crosses the Mouddach, we were glad to take shelter in Llaneltyd turnpike-house, whither we were kindly invited by its tenant, the man who kept the toll. Not having yet breakfasted, we enquired for an inn where we might be fur- nished with this necessary meal, and were an- cwered by our host, we should be accommo- dated at his cottage, and that his daughter would be happy in providing it for us immedi- ately. He accordingly called her, and the young Cambrian made her appearance. C and I agreed we had scarcely ever seen a girl more lovely or interesting. She was tall, and ele- gantly shaped J her complexion fair, her large blue eyes beaming kindness and benignity; her flaxen hair flowing in negligent ringlets over her shoulders; her voice musically sweet, and her manners wonderfully soft, and greatly superior to the sphere in which she moved. Prepared by so fair a hand, we ate our breakfast with ad- ditional relish; and, whilst we were dispatching some of the best home-made cakes and butter I had ever tasted, our honest host entertained us with his history. His name is Henry Roberts, and his native country North-Wales. Early in [ 105 ] life he had gone into the army, and, after car- rying the musket for many years, retired from the service with some severe wounds, the loss of his right arm, and a Chelsea out-pension. Of late years he had combined several different em- ployments together, and by those means con- trived to provide a comfortable subsistence for his wife, his daughter, and himself. By keep- ing the turnpike he lived rent free, and received a little annual stipend; during the summer he frequently attended travellers to the falls of the IVIouddach, and the top of Cader-Idris; and his income was further increased by retailing to the villagers tea, sugar, thread, and the thousand other little articles which constitute the stock of a chandler's shop. , We had finished our breakfast before he had concluded his history, for it was told with all the garrulity of seventy, and all the circumstantiality of an old soldier. However, as my companion and myself are not of the number of those who disdain to hear " the simple annals of the poor," we neither hastened nor interrupted the detail, but listened with all proper attention till he had concluded his adventures. When he was fairly come to a close, we asked him if he would accompany us to the neighbouring catarafts^ this he imrae- [ 106 ] diately consented to do; we therefore took leave of our fair attendant, and quitted Llanel- tyd turnpike about half past seven o'clock. The first cataraft to which our guide con- duced us was over Dol-y-Myllyn, situate a little beyond the fifth mile-stone from Dolgelly, near the house of William Madox, esq. Passing through a white gate to the left hand of the road, we approached the fall by a path which climbs a pretty steep acclivity, clothed with trees of various kinds, and sprinkled with numerous un- common and curious plants. This ascent con- tinues the better part of half a mile, when the fall opens itself to the view. We first observed it from above. Here the water appears to throw itself down a perpendicular descent of full forty feet, in two principal sheets, and thro' some lateral gullies, into an hideous bed of black, disjoined rocks, through which it strug- gles for a few yards, and is then lost to the spec- tator in the surrounding woods. To obtain a view of its further progress we struck into a steep and intricate path, which led us to the foot of the cascade, where the scene became much more grand, beautiful, and extensive, than before. An additional fall of twenty-five feet now appears immediately in front; the first ca- I 107 ] tara6t, and the ragged channel Into which it discharges itself, are seen to the left hand; and naces vain. He shortly after instigated Edilfred, the Saxon king of Northumberland, to invade the kingdom of Powis, of which Bangor formed a part. Brocmail Yscitroc, its prince, raised an army to repel him, and ordered 1200 of the Bangorian Monks, to ascend a hill, in sight of the armies, and offer up their prayers for his success during the engagement. These, how- ever, were ineffetlual, and Edilfred, after rout- ing the British army, and murdering their use- less auxiliaries, proceeded to the monastery. [ 142 ] razed it to the ground, and massacred all its unresisting inhabitants.* The town of Bangor, though small, is neat and clean, and watered by " Deva's wizard " stream," which flows under an elegant bridge of five arches. This river springs from the foot of the mountain Rauranvaur in Merionethshire, and discharges itself into the Irish sea at Ches- ter, after a long and circuitous course. It is famous in British song, and British story; the fruitful father of superstition, the scene of m.a- gic, and of omens. Many wonders were attri- buted to it, on account of its anciently dividing the principality of Wales from England; and tra- dition asserted that it frequently varied its fords, previous to any change befalling either country. Thus sang Drayton the topographical poet: " Again Dee's holiness began " By his contrafted front and sterner waves to shew, " That he had things to speak that profit them to know; "^ A brook that was suppos'd much business to have seen, " Wliich had an ancient bound 'twixt Wales and Eng- " land been, " And noted was by both to be an ominous flood, " That changing of his fords, thft future ill or good *' Of either country told ; of cither's war or peace ; " The sickness or the health, the dearth or the increafe." PoLYOLBioN, Song 2d. * Bede's Ecc. Hist. 1. ii. [ 143 ] And Spenser has made its source the scene of conference between the magician Merlin and old Timon: — " Under tlie foote of Rauran mossy hore, " From whence the river Dee, as silver cleene, " His tombling billows rolls witli gentle rore." Faerie Queene, i. ix. We left Bangor with strong impressions in its favour, having never seen a place which united so many beauties in so narrow a circle; the sublime mountains of Caernarvonshire at a short distance from it; the picturesque scenery ot its own immediate neighbourhood; and the ocean spreading its broad bosom within two miles of the town. Add to this, also, the important cir- cumstance of its being one of the cheapest towns in the three kingdoms, and few others wall appear to be so inviting and desirable for a residence as Bangor. Pursuing the turnpike-road to Conway for three miles, we turned into the park of Penrhyn Castle, the noble seat of the peer of that title. It is an ancient edifice, but has of late years un- dergone a thorough reparation, under the di- rection of the judicious Wyat, who, v»ith his usual taste and science, has preserved in his im- [ 144 ] provements, the characleristic style of the mi- litary Gothic. About a mile to the south of the castle, on an elevation that overlooks the river Ogwen, stands the little church of Llandegai, built probably about the time of Edward III. The strufture is Gothic, exactly cruciform, with a tower in the centre, and exhibits the smallest and neatest example of that figure 1 ever saw. On the south side of the altar is a large and highly-ornamented alabaster tomb, on the flat slab of which recline the figures of an armed knight and his lady, the latter in the dress of the fourteenth century, their feet resting on a Iamb. We soon approached the enormous promon- tory Pen-maen-maur, and began to wind up its awful side. The road over this rocky mountain, which was formerly extremely rude and dan- gerous, has for some years since, under the au- thority of Parliament and the direftion of Mr. Silvester, been entirely altered, and divested of a considerable degree of its horror. Still, how- ever, it cannot be travelled without shuddering. Creeping round the side of the mountain, it hangs as it were in the mid-air, with a frown- ing precipice above, and a steep descent imme- diately under it. The rocks on the right are [ 145 ] nearly perpendicular, sometimes beetling over the road in a terrific manner, at others retiring into deep declivities of 900 or 1000 feet in height^ from whose ragged sides proje6l frag- ments of incalculable magnitude, so capriciously placed, and having such a disjoined appearance, that it is impossible for the traveller to lose the perpetual dread of his being every moment crushed to atoms under a torrent of huge stones. This danger, indeed, can never be entirely re- moved, as the united exertions of all the work- men in the world could never clear the face of the mountain from these innumerable masses. A lapse of this kind had happened a day or two before our passing the road, which would in- evitably have swept us into the ocean, had we been within the sphere of its violence. Several workmen were employed in repairing the breach it had occasioned in the wall that runs along the edge of the precipice at the left hand of the road, and from the devastation it had there made, we saw awful proofs of its magni- tude and force. Some singular accidents which occurred on the road, previous to the judicious alteration of it in 1772, are preserved in the recollection of the neighbourhood. The following is the most L [ 146 ] extraordinary one, which I give you on the au- thority of a most entertaining traveller, an ex- cellent naturalist, and amiable man, who men- tions it as a tradition firmly credited in the parish where it happened : — " Above a century ago, Sion Humphries, of " this parish, had made his addresses to Ann *' Thomas, of Creyddyn, on the other side of '*' Conway river. They had made an appoint- " ment to meet at a fair in the town of Conway. " He, in his way, fell over Pen-maen-mawr; " she was overset in the ferry-boat, and was the " only person saved out of more than fourscore. " Thev were married, and Hved very long to- gether in the parish of Llanvair. She was • buried April nth, 1744, aged 116; he sur- ' vived her five vears, and was buried Dec. loth, 1 749, close by her in the parish church- yard, where their graves are familiarly shewn •' to this day."* The road from hence to Conway is a long descent, through which we have a continued scene of rock and mountain, till within a mile of the town, when, by a sudden turn to the right, we gain a view of that, its neighboifr- cc i * Pennant's Wales, 305. C 147 ] hood, and the most sublime ruin in the king- dom, its magnificent castle. We reached this place at eight o'clock, and proceeded to the sign of the Bull. At first, we found some little symptoms of false shame on entering a respect- able inn 2lS Jiedestriam, but the attention of the people soon convinced us, we were lowlv onJy in our own eyes 3 and we since find they are accustomed to entertain travellers like ourselves, who prefer walking through this mountainous country to anv other mode of seein» it. Since our arrival here every thing has pleased us. There is one circumstance, indeed, which im- mediately puts the traveller in a good humour with all that he meets with at a Wdsli inn; it is the attendance ol femaks, whom, hitherto, we have invariably found as waiters, instead of men. Exclusive of the pleasure one naturally teels from the presence of female beauty, there is also a minute attention and kindness in the manners of women, which give weight to the most trivial offices thev perform for one, and add the torce of an obligation even to a com- mon acf of servitude. The two ^iris who attend us here, are as beautiful as Htmris, and by their cheerfulness and simplicitv give an additional relish to the dainties spon- [ 148 ] taneously provided for us by our hospitable landlady.* We were no sooner arrived at our present quarters, than a young man entered our apart- ment, and requested to know whether we would wish to hear the harp. C and I were elec- trified at the word. Hitherto we had not met with one of these national instruments, and Conway was, of all places, the spot where we should hear its fine tones with best effeft. The idea of the ancient bards, who animated the hero to the fight, and eternized his fame by their songs, rushed into our minds j " Vos quoque qui fortes animas belloque peremptas " Laudibus in longum vates demittis in aevum, '' Plurima securi fudistis carmina bardi." LucAN, Phar. i. And we recollected that the neighbourhood of this place was the scene which a modern poet had chosen for a most sublime description of one of the same important order of men in later times: — " On a rock, whose haughty brow " Frowns o'er old Conway s foaming flood. * The ancient Celts, the ancestors of the Welsh, were always attended at their feasts by girh, and boys. A/«xo- vovvTxi vTTo ruv viuTxruv ttxi^uv, ovk c^ovIuv r/hmtxt af f f vwv te jc«' S»jA£w».— — Diodor. Sic. 1.5. [ 149 ] " Rob'd in the sable garb of woe, " Witli haggard eye the poet stood; '' Loose his beard and hoary hair " Stream'd, like a meteor, to the troubled air; " And with a master's hand, and prophet's lire, " Struck the deep sorrows of his Ipe." Gray's Bard. We accordingly expressed a wish to have the harper immediately, and in a few minutes, Mr. Jones, a venerable old man, totally blind, with grey locks, was introduced to us. He proved to be an exquisite player, and did ample justice to his noble instrument, which was the ancient three-stringed Welsh Harp, much better cal- culated than ours, for expression and effeft. It must be allowed that there is a sameness in all the Welsh airs, but though the outline be simi- lar, the features are diversified. An extreme simplicity, and a wild originality, (distinft from the music of other nations) charafterize their composition, and the pathetic, which they boast in a high degree, renders them particularly af- fecting. Mr. Jones gave us a number of tradi- tional bardic tunes, lively and inspiriting, and contrasted them with the plaintive measures of " David of the White Rock," and the solemn dirge-like miisic of " Morfa Rhuddlan." We regretted that another engagement obliged him [ 1-5:0 ] to leave us, after playing incessantly for an hour, and affording us a sort of pleasure differ- ent from any thing we had hitherto experi- enced. Your's, &c. R. W. LETTER X. TO THE SAME. DEAR SIR, Cernioge, Aug. 2^d. OUR musical entertainment last night did not cease with the departure of Mr. Jones. We had scarcely dropped into our first sleep, when the sound of the harp, vibrating with the plaintive notes of a solemn composi- tion, pleasingly awaked us. I compared it to an adventure of Ossian. " In the hall I lay in night. Mine eyes were - half closed in sleep. Soft music came to mine '' ear: it was like the rising breeze, that whirls, " at first, the thistle's beard; then flies, dark " shadowy over the grass." This morning, when we rose, the cause of the serenade was explained to us. On entering our sitting-room we found it occupied by two young gentlemen, who were at breakfast there. We joined the party, and, after some conversation, understood they had engaged Mr. Jones to harp to them after his quitting us, and were so delighted with his performance as to protra61: it until midnight, which had occasioned the agreeable interriiption of our repose. It soon appeared, these gentlemen were, like ourselves, pedestrian travellers, though their route was somewhat different, and their mode of carrying necessary luggage more extravagant than ours. They had left Aberystwyth with an intention of travelling through North- Wales, and pro- ceeding afterwards to the lakes, by the way of Chester and Liverpool; and in order to effe6t this the more commodiously, had purchased a poney, which carried a portmanteau v/ith their baggage, and was driven before them. So many inconveniences, however, had arisen from this addition to the party, that they resolved to get rid of it, and we left them at Conway in treatvfor thesaleof theponey, and determined to adopt our method of carrying their necessaries. We walked round Conway before we quitted it, and visited its stupendous castle. The lat- ter was built by Edward I. and comprised the whole of the present town within its yard. I know nothing more striking than the appear- ance of this fortress from a little distance; the extent and substance of its walls, the number and hugeness of its round towers, erefted on a rock, and rising sublimely above a noble es- tuary, produce an effect prodigiously grand. The exterior walls, which from their thickness seem calculated to endure as long as the rock on which they stand, are about a mile and half in circumference, and express the figure of a Welsh harp, a form chosen, possibly, by Edward in compliment to the newly-conquered Cam- brians. The castle itself is of an oblong shape, defended by eight immense projecting towers, each having a smaller one issuing from its top. The interior of this is in a state of ruin, but there are sufficient remains to afford a compleat idea of its original plan. Amongst many apart- ments, the great hall makes the most conspicu- ous figure. It extends 130 feet in length, 32 in breadth, and is of a proportionate height. [ 154 ] On entering this noble room, the idea of anci- ent revelry instantly occurs to the mind, and ima- gination hurries back to those times, when it ex- hibited the splendid scene described by the poet : " Illumining the vaulted Foof, " A thousand torches flam'd aloof j " From massy cups, with golden gleam, " Sparkled the red Metheglin's stream ; I " To grace the gorgeous festival, " Along the lofty-window'd hall, " The storied tapestiy was hung : " With minstrelsy the rafters rung " Of harps, that with reflefted light " From the proud gallery glitter'd bright ; " While gifted bards, a rival throng, "■ (From distant Mona, nurse of song, " From Teivi, fring'd with umbrage brown^ " From Elvy's vale, and Cader's crown, " From many a shaggy precipice " That shades lerne's hoarse abyss, " And many a sunless solitude " Qf Radnor's inmost mountains rude) " To crown the banquet's solemn close, " Themes of British glory chose." Having surveyed the interior of the castle, we strolled as far as the rising tide would allow us, round its outward walls, in order to see a ruined tower mentioned by Mr. Pennant. It forms, indeed, a scene of devastation well worth a visit. The rock on which it was built having been excavated for the sake of the stone, the lower part of the tower gave way, and tumbled in mighty fragments on the shore beneath ; leav- [ 1'^^ ] ing the upper moiety hanging as it were high in air, and nodding ruin on all who venture to approach it. Conway itself is but a mean town, with few tolerable houses in it. Another Plas Mawr, or mansion-house, occurs here, of simi- jar architecture with that at Caernarvon, but of earlier date, and greater extent. It is indeed a vast pile, decorated within and without in the fantastical fashion of the time, with ornaments in stone and plaister, consisting of arms, 'scut- cheons, crests, birds, and beasts. The old Greek apophthegm is carved over the gateway, Av^x^ hirex^-) ^^^^> forbear, with some Roman letters, and the date of the building 1585. After wading through a lane-like turnpike- road, close and muddy, for a mile and half, we descended into the beautiful vale of Conway, watered by the winding river of that name. On considering the charafter of this stream, which has nothing " foaming" in it, we were immediately struck with the impropriety of Mr. Grey's epithet for it. The poet, indeed, might have been led into the error by supposing that the Conway resembled the other mountain torrents of Wales, whose course is marked by rage and impetuosity; but had he written from a6lual observation, he would .have known its features are of the opposite kind, and that it meanders in peace and silence through the vale. A scene of great picturesque beauty opens at the village Porthleyd. The road here runs pa- rallel with a chain of rocks on the right, vary- ing their appearance perpetually, from rude, bare crags, to verdant declivities, and lofty eminences crowned with wood. Two cascades enliven the picture on the same side, one plea- singly relieved with shrubs and trees; the other tumbling down a precipice of at least seventy feet in height. To the left, the river is seen following its capricious course through verdant meadows, and beyond it, are mountains sloping down, and gradually uniting with the vale. The famous rock called Carreg-y-Gwalchy the crag of the Falcon, attrafted our notice, and we quitted the Llanrwst road, in order to visit it. Various trees, thickly planted, and extremely luxuriant, almost hide it from the eye. The ancient family house of the Gwedir's (now be- longing to Lord Gwedir) stands at the foot of the rock, exhibiting a good example of the country residence of a great family in the i6th century, when it was erefted. It is now a farm- house, and all its pristine glory is extinguished; time was, however, when it made a figure, and C 1.57 ] boasted a magnificence which no other noble residence in Wales displayed, for tradition as- serts, that Gzvedir was the first house in the prin- cipality fitted up with glass windows. We pro- ceeded toLlanrwst over a light, beautiful bridiie of three arches, built in 1635, designed, as it is said, by Inigo Jones; and from thence cast a " longing lingering look" over the country we had passed, the beautiful vale of Conway, of which we were now to take a parting view. Here w^e bade adieu to the hills of Snowdon, whose eastern extremities form the precipitous eminences which impend over the road; and to the fine wooded elevations which accom- panied us on the opposite side of the river from Conway to the spot where v^^e stood. We quitted the scene with the regret that is felt on separating from a society, in which we have found amusement blended with instruction; in which, whilst the fancy was delighted, the heart was also improved. Having passed the bridge, we were now in Denbighshire, the river Conway dividing that county from Caernarvonshire. We entered Llanrwst about three o'clock, and surveyed its ancient church and an elegant chapel adjoining it, in both which there are some old tombs and [ 158 ] brasses, chiefly commemorating branches of the Wynne family. Quitting the town, we strolled quietly up a long hill towards Capel Voelas, and having attained its summit, caught a beau- tiful view of a noble vale stretching to the south-west, and bounded, distantly, by the Me- rioneth mountains. The sun, as if to heighten the contrast between this scene and the coun- try we were shortly to enter, dropped gently from a black cloud by which he had been long hidden, and lighted up with all his splendour the diversified landscape. It was, however, but a transient feast; we soon dipped into a hollow, and pursued a road over barren heaths and dark morasses for ten miles, enlivened by no variety of prospeft, nor any one edifice of beauty or curiosity. We arrived at this place at eight o'clock, a solitary inn, in the midst of a desert, chiefly intended for the accommodation of the coaches which run this road. The larder is in unison with Xht /lopulation of the country: nothing to be had but a leg of mutton, which, it seems, was tripping over the " dark-brown heath" about three hours ago. We have ordered it to be roasted, tho' we doubt whether a very keen appetite, produced by a fasting walk of twenty- six miles, will render it eatable, R. W. Castle i^ii, Vtina.* Igl Dec River Llangollen LETTER XI. TO THE SAME. DEAR SIR, Llangollen, Aug. z^tb. \\T^ have been greatly amused with our ^ ^ day's walk. It has given us a little of every thing, of the ridiculous, the beautiful, the solemn j and we have by turns laughed, admi- red, and moralized, thro' the whole of it. By nine o'clock we had quitted the inn at Cerni- oge, and were on our road to Kerig-y-Druidion, a village at three miles distance. This place, as its name imports, was connected with the awful superstition of the ancient Britons, and exhibited some years since vestiges of Druidi- cal worship. They are described in a letter ?iven bv Camden's Continuator,' as follows : C 160 ] rious forms. White-Brook, another hamlet, ornamented with the house of General Rooke, presently succeeds; to the left of which, on a commanding elevation, is seen the village of St. Brieval's with its church and castle, the latter serving as a prison for those convicted of tres- passes in the neighbouring forest of Dean. It is difficult to give a just idea of the singular village of Llandogo, that now opens upon us. Q [ 226 ] You must imagine, my dear sir, a lofty hill, whose indented side is mantled with deep woods, through which a multitude of small cottages, sprinkled over the declivity in an art- less, whimsical, and pifturesque manner, shew their little whitened fronts, and strongly im- press the imagination with the idea of its be- ing fairyland, the romantic residence of Oberon, Mab, and their fantastic train. This spot is- generally esteemed, and with great justice, a beautiful feature of the Wye. The river now takes a sharp turn to the left, and hurrying on half a mile further to Cardithel, experiences a considerable and singular depression of its level, sinking, gradually, several feet. Passing thro* the populous village of Brookweir, to which the Severn hoys ascend in order to receive the lading of the Wye barges, we left for a short time the banks of the river, and wound up a narrow lane for another mile. We then at- tained the summit of a hill, and a prospe6t immediately burst upon us, scarcely to be equalled for richness and variety. Behind us lay the fairy region of Llandogo, the busy vil- lage of Brookweir deeply embosomed in wood, and the crystalline river, studded with vessels of different descriptions. Before us were I [ 227 ] spread the village of Tintern, with the diver- sified scenery of the dale in which it stands, its glittering stream and dark woods, and the Jofty ruins of its abbey, a beautiful Gothic pile rising in solemn majesty, spotted with mosses, and crowned with ivy. The whole scene was gloriously tinted by the rich illumination of a setting sun. We slowly descended the hill, indulging the reflexions which the view had inspired, and crossing the Wye for the last time, proceeded to the Beaufort Arms, a very comfortable inn, kept by Mr.- Gething, the antiquary and his- torian of the village. Your's, &c. R. W. [ 229 ] LETTER XVIII. TO THE SAME. DEAR SIR, Chepstow, Aug: ^isf. T 71 7HILST we are waiting for the flood tide in order to cross the Severn, on our re- turn to Bath, I indulge myself in troubling you with a few additional lines, as a finish to the slight account of our expedition, which, in compliance with your request, 1 have attempted to give you. The brevity I must necessarily observe in my concluding letter, will, I appre- hend, need the less apology, as the scenery of this place and its neighbourhood has already been described by Tourists out of number, who have been so particular in their details, as to leave nothing to be gleaned by such birds of passage as C and myself. The extreme heat of the last night effectually prevented us from sleeping, and we passed the greater part of it at our window. This we were induced to do both for the sake of a balmy and refreshing breeze that gently whispered without, and in order to enjoy a scene perfeftly pew to us, Jiighly gratifying to a warm imagina- [ 230 ] tion. Immediately opposite to the room in which we were lodged stands a large iron- forge, one amongst the many that are con- stantly worked night and day, in the valley of Tintern. The wide folding-doors were thrown open, and as they faced our window, the in- terior part of the edifice, with its huge appa- ratus, and the operations carried on by it, \vefe displayed to our view. Here the dingy beings who melt the ore, and prepare it for the bar-^ hammer, were seen busied in their horrible employment, all the detail of which we clearly discovered by the assistance of the strong illu- mination cast on them from the flaming fur- naces. This scene of bustle amidst smoke and fire, during the darkness and silence of mid- night, which was only interrupted by the in- tonations of the bar-hammer, produced a most impressive effe6t en the mind. We saw Vir- gil's description realized, and the interior of Etna, the forges of the Cyclops, and their fear- ful employment, immediately occurred to us. " Fulgores nunc terrificos, sonitumque^ metumque " Miscebant operi, flammisque sequacibus iras. " —— Gemit impositis, incudibus antrum. " Illi inter sese multa vi brachia tollunt " In niimerum, versantque tenaci forcipe massam." En, viii. 431. [ 231 ] Our impatience to survey the ruins of Tin- tern abbey induced us to rise with the sun. It was some time, however, before we were gra- tified, for the key of it having been very in- judiciously takep from Mr. Gething, and placed in the hands of a man on the other side of the river, considerable delay and trouble arise in procuring it; an inconvenience which is not recompensed by the civility of the ciceroni, who has none of the obliging attention of our host at the Beaufort Arms. After much vocifera- tion, we at length gained the key, and were admitted into the abbey. The coup d'oeil^ on opening the western entrance, is, unquestionably, very fine. The peculiar elegance and light- ness of all its members immediately strike the eye. Nothing, indeed, can be more perfe6t than the architefture of its various parts; its moulded arches, clustering pillars, and figured windows. Nature, also, as if to render the ruin compleat, has taken abundant pains in decorating its columns and walls with a pro- fuse coating of ivy, which is very happily con- trasted to the light hue of the stone used in the building, that even now preserves much of its original whiteness. This beautiful ruin is cru- ciform, two hundred and thirty feet in length. [ 232 ] and thirty-three in breadth; the transept stretches north and south one hundred and sixty feet. It was originally the great church belonging to the Cistertian Abbey of Tintern, founded by Walter de Clare in 1131, and de- dicated to St. Mary, as all monasteries of that order were. Falling a prey to the rapacity of Henry VIII. at the dissolution, (when its estates amounted to 192I. per annum) it was granted by him in 1537 to the Earl of Worcester. Many vestiges of other buildings belonging to the abbey may be traced, such as door-ways, shafts of pillars, &c. and they all prove that the purest stile of Gothic architecture was bo- served in the stru6lure of the great church and the contiguous edifices. Having gratified our- selves with a minute observation of every part of this ruin, and visited the iron-works, where the crude ore is melted, and formed into rough pigs, preparatory to its being manufactured, we bade farewell to our kind friend Wathen, (who returned to Hereford) and took the road towards Chepstow. One other grand view re- mained to us before we finished our expedition ; I mean that which is seen from a stupendous elevation called the Wine-cliff, (a corruption, probably, of Wye-cliff) rising a little to th« [ 233 ] north-east of Piercefield, and overlooking the surrounding country. Quitting the road, and taking a path through the meadows to the left hand, we reached this eminence by a gradual ascent, and were suddenly astonished with a scene grand and unbounded. Immediately under the cliff is seen the Wye, following a course the most whimsical and sinuous that can be conceived, and discharging its waters into the Severn at Chepstow. The vast mural, lime-stone precipices, that rise abruptly from its banks, finely diversified by a regular alterna- tion of rock and wood, appear in front and to the left. Piercefield, with all its magic scenery, lies under to the eye, to the right. Beyond it the ruined castle of Chepstow, and its busy town, are caught. And in the distance, the straining vision roves over Glocestershire, So- mersetshire, and Monmouthshire, and follow- ing the course of the magnificent Severn, is at length lost in the Bristol Channel. Not being fortunate enough to gain admis- sion into the grounds of Piercefield, for this is not a day of their public exhibition, we walked on towards Chepstow, through a country ex- tremely pleasing. The name of this town, according to Camden, signifies a " place of C 234 ] " trading," and it still retains some appearance of its ancient celebrity in that respeft. It is built on the Wye, about two miles from the point where it discharges itself into the Severn, and is provided with proper quays for the con- venience of the numerous vessels which fre- quent the place. A v^^ooden bridge of prodi- gious height, ere61ed on piles, crosses the river to the south of the town. The boards which form the flooring of this are not fastened, but so disposed as to rise and fall with the tide, which is known sometimes to exceed seventy feet in height. The church is a curious edifice. It formerly belonged to the alien Benedi6tine priory of Strigule, but was converted at the Re- formation into the parish church of Chepstow. The asra of its erection may be pretty well as- certained by the circular arches and massive Anglo-Norman pillars of the great aisle, toge- ther with the western door, which exhibits a beautiful and perfetl specimen of the architec- ture of the eleventh century. But the glory of Chepstow is its ruined castle, " mighty in " decay," and occupying a great extent of ground. This also dates its origin from the early Norman times, and was probably ere6ted immediately subsequent to the Conquest. Wc I 235 ] entered it by a lofty gateway of noble appear- ance, and surveyed with wonder its extensive remains, and substantial walls. Founded on a bold, perpendicular rock, and constru£led with all the strength which art could bestow upon it, Chepstow Castle bade fair to boast an endu- rance equal to the firm basis on which it is built. The fallen turrets, however, and dilapidated walls, crumbling gradually into annihilation, evince the impossibility of resisting the silent, but uninterrupted attacks of Time, who sooner or later levels with the dust all the monuments of human vanity, and all the efforts of human labour. '' And e'en so fares it with the things of earth " Which seem most constant : there will come tlie cloud *' That shall enfold them up, and leave their place 'f A seat for emptiness. Our naiTow ken '' Reaches too far, when all that we behold " Is but the havock of wide-wasting Time, " Or what he soon shall spoil. His outspread wings ^' (Which bear him like an eagle o'er the earth) *' Are plum'd in front so downy soft, they seem " To foster what they touch, and mortal fools " Rejoice beneath their hovering: woe the while! " For in that indefatigable flisfht " The multitudinous strokes incessantly " Bruise all beneath tlieir cope, and mark on alj " His secret injury; ojq the front of man [ 236 ] " Grey hairs and wrinkles j still as Time speeds on^ "■ Hard and more hard his iron pennons beat '*■ With ceaseless violence j nor overpass, " Till all the creatures of this nether world " Are one wide quarry : following dark behind;, " The cormorant Oblivion swallows up , " The carcasses tliat Time has made his prey." Your's, Sic. R. W.