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DRAFTSMAN’S MANUAL ; 
 
 OR, 
 
 “ HOW CAN I LEARN ARCHITECTURE ? ” 
 
 HINTS TO ENQUIRERS. 
 DIRECTIONS IN DRAFTSMANSHIP. 
 NEW REVISED AND ENLARGED EDITION. 
 
 BY 
 
 F. T. CAMP, 
 
 ARCHITECT. 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, 
 
 6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 18 83 . 
 
Copyright by 
 W. T„ COMSTOCK 
 1882. 
 
8/30 57 gl* J.Lake SejJ?, 2 # 3-/rfjj 
 
 74f 
 
 (L-jri 
 
 ) 823 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 INTRODUCTION, . . . . . . 4 
 
 Preliminary Words, , ■ . . . 4 
 
 Draftsman’s Outfit (see Appendix A), . . 5 
 
 Technics |f Planning, . . . 6 
 
 General Remarks on Planning, . . .17 
 
 General Remarks on Exteriors, . . 19 
 
 i 
 
 Drawing Ithe Plan, . . , . .22 
 
 Using th| Instruments, 23 
 
 I 
 
 Designing-^ the Elevations, . . . .25 
 
 Tracing and Inking, 28 
 
 The Architect, . . . . . ,30 
 
 The Proportion of Rooms (Appendix B), 38 
 
 996843 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Haying frequently been asked, by wide-awake young car- 
 penters and builders, how best to qualify themselves for prac- 
 tising the profession of Architecture, I have in the following 
 pages set down the steps which to that class are necessary 
 and expedient, in the order that they must be undertaken. 
 
 In the hope that what I here set forth may be found of use 
 to such mechanics as are of inquiring minds in this direction, 
 and that such as are of the right stuff may be encouraged and 
 helped, I trust this little attempt to its public. 
 
 Fked’k T. Camp, 
 
 Architect. 
 
 PRELIMINARY WORDS. 
 
 In attempting to supply by these simple directions a want 
 which has frequently been expressed to me, I will confine my 
 scope strictly to a practical description of the methods in use 
 for placing upon paper and other materials those somewhat 
 mystic lines called plans, elevations, and sections — so often 
 erroneously denominated Architecture when the word ought 
 to be Draftsmanship. 
 
 The query generally runs, “ I want to learn architecture 
 a term often much broader than the real intention in the 
 majority of instances, as the ambitious ones only mean that 
 they want to learn how to make plans, sections, elevations, and 
 details. They don’t really want to go through the course 
 necessary to thoroughly inform them as to the History of 
 Architecture ; the styles — classic, Gothic, and Renaissance : 
 but they think that the draftsmanship necessary to enable them 
 to draw plans, etc., of common, everyday city and country 
 houses is Architecture ; and so they want to “ learn” it. 
 
 I have presumed in the foregoing that the real desire on 
 the part of any inquirers is to learn draftsmanship and not 
 architecture ; and of the former I shall treat first, reserving 
 the topic of architecture until the previous one of draftsman- 
 ship is disposed of. 
 
DBAFTSMAN’S MANUAL. 
 
 DRAFTSMAN'S OUTFIT ENUMERATED. 
 
 Drawing-board, a convenient size, 24 x 36 inches. 
 
 Two T squares, one 24 inches and one 48 inches. 
 
 Three triangles, one each of angles 27^°, 45°, 60°. 
 
 A dozen thumb tacks, preferably of German silver. 
 
 Pencils of varying hardness, say half a dozen, from No. 4 
 to 6 H, or corresponding numbers. 
 
 Kubber, not too hard, and close grained. 
 
 An ink slab and well of white earthenware or slate. 
 
 A set earthenware color saucers. 
 
 Half dozen camel’s-hair brushes of different sizes. 
 
 Four cakes of colors — red, blue, brown, ochre — and as 
 many others as are desired. 
 
 A stick of India-ink — the best is the cheapest. 
 
 Instruments — one pair plain 4^-inch dividers ; one large 
 compass, fitted with pencil and pen legs ; one small compass, 
 fitted as before ; two ruling pens, large and small ; a foot- 
 rule. These are necessaries. Most draftsmen have more in- 
 struments, gotten at times when specially needed, such as 
 spring dividers, large and small ; standard steel scales, com- 
 prising many divisions to the inch ; proportional dividers, 
 parallel rules ; protractors ; small fine compasses, both pencil 
 and pen ; crow-quill drawing-pen points, etc., etc. * 
 
 White paper comes either in sheets of different sizes, from 
 small or ordinary to large or double elephant ; or in rolls of 
 48 and 52 inches wide, and twenty or thirty yards in length ; 
 but a yard or so can be purchased at a time, and is more 
 economical for general use, as pieces of any size can be cut 
 from it, and there is less waste than when sheets of a uniform 
 size are used for all purposes. It is not necessary to use 
 white paper for any of the drawings unless they are to be 
 nicely colored, or are for show ; but a good grade of heavy 
 light brown manilla paper will answer every purpose and be 
 much cheaper. It comes in rolls only, but can be bought by 
 the yard or pound. Tracing-cloth is a semi-transparent 
 fabric, consisting of linen cloth, prepared with wax and tur- 
 pentine in a manner that leaves one side with a high gloss and 
 the reverse of a dull appearance. Some tracing cloths have 
 
 *See Appendix A. 
 
DRAFTSMAN S MANUAL. 
 
 6 
 
 both sides glazed, bat the best have dull back. Opinions 
 differ as to which side is best to put the ink on. If the trac- 
 ing is t*o be colored the dull side takes colors best, though if 
 the lines are on the dull side the reverse will take the colors, 
 but with some difficulty ; but bear this in mind — always color 
 on the reverse side from that on which the ink lines are. If 
 this is not done the color brush will be sure to soften and 
 spread the ink lines. When tracing-cloth has been kept in 
 too dry a place, or is old, it becomes difficult to make the ink 
 flow evenly on the smooth surface. In that case a minute 
 quantity of ox-gall or soapsuds in the ink will cause this 
 difficulty to disappear. 
 
 TECHNICS OF PLAMIXG. 
 
 Assuming the young man who wants directions in drafts- 
 manship to be ordinarily well educated as to arithmetic, read- 
 ing, writing, and spelling, and, above all, attentive and eager 
 to learn, his own experience in carpentry or masonry enabling 
 him to understand all the points about material, etc., puzzling 
 to many beginners, he must first try to understand how the 
 plans are intended to actually represent the building, at differ- 
 ent stages of its construction. In general, the plans show 
 the appearance of the walls, as if left with a horizontal face, 
 cutting through the windows and doors at some point in 
 their height — just where is immaterial. 
 
 It is customary to show all such openings, whether they 
 would be in such an imaginary plane of section or not, lead- 
 ing to the elevations or further drawings to show the heights, 
 if irregular. 
 
 The drawings are usually made on a scale of four feet to 
 one inch — familiarly called “ quarter-inch scale,” and some 
 of large buildings on an eighth inch scale, or eight feet to an 
 inch. Elevations and sections should be on the same scale as 
 the plans. 
 
 For instance, a plan of a base course would show a contin- 
 uous wall (except -where openings were to be left for passage 
 of drains, etc.) of the necessary width — three feet, three feet 
 and a half, etc. 
 
 The foundation or cellar wall would show solid, ex- 
 cept where doors, windows, ventilating apertures, and the 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 7 
 
 like were to be, which would be indicateJ by lines, showing 
 somewhat as a cross-section of the article in question would 
 appear. 
 
 Piers, buttresses, stair bulkheads, and cisterns are shown 
 by solid walls, colored. A general definition of the way to 
 represent walls is : the two faces are lines, and the body of 
 the wall is colored blue for stone, or brown, as may be the 
 color of the stone to be used ; red for brick ; a reddish yellow 
 ochre or orange color for wood ; drab for slate courses ; 
 brown for black walnut, brown stone, etc., etc. 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 1 represents the character of most of the windows put 
 in cellar walls to light cellars. The outside double line is a 
 winter sash and the inside one the common sash. Tbe 
 shaded part is stone wall. The window-frame is of plank, 
 not boxed, and the sash are hinged or fastened in with 
 buttons. 
 
 Fig. 2 shows how a window in a wall of a frame house is 
 represented. The shaded part is the wall. ' 
 
 Fig. 3 represents a section of a window set in an eight inch 
 brick wall. The shaded part is the wall, and the squares are 
 the boxes. The furring, plastering, etc., are shown by the ex- 
 tra line on the wall, and the architrave or casing and sill are 
 inside the window. 
 
 Fig. 3. Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 4. — This example shows how to represent a double or 
 single external door in a frame wall. The sill projects, as do 
 all the others, and the shaded part is the mass of the wall. 
 
 Fig. 5 represents a section of a double or single door in the 
 wall of a brick house. The wall is eight-inch, and is shaded. 
 The frame, with fillet on the brick side, shows on the jambs, 
 and the furring, lath, and plaster inside. 
 
 Fig. 6 shows the usual plan of steps and step buttresses, of 
 either wood or stone. As a general form, it is well under- 
 stood, but of course special designs in any of these illustra- 
 tions given would alter more or less their forms. 
 
8 
 
 draftsman’s manual. 
 
 Fig. 7. — This cut is of a wooden bay, projecting from a 
 frame house-wall. The angle of the sides is 60° with the 
 wall. The length of the sides is equal. The outside line is 
 that of the sill. The dotted crossed lines and parallel ones 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 k 
 
 j 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 show that the opening into the bay is arched. The shaded 
 parts represent the wall and angles. 
 
 Fig. 8 is also of a bay, but of brick attached to a brick 
 wall. The angles are calculated of 4 and 8 inches to avoid 
 cutting the brick, and the sides are recessed for the same 
 reason. The shaded parts are of brick, and the clear parts are 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 the box frames, furring for jambs of arch, wall, etc. The 
 dotted lines represent arch as before given. 
 
 Fig. 9 shows how to represent a roof plan, to show the 
 ridges, hips, valleys, chimneys, etc. The heavy black line 
 inside the eaves, or cornice, is the position of the plate, or 
 
 Fig. 10. 
 
 outside wall. The slopes are lined horizontally with the fall* 
 and represent the lines or rows of slate or shingles. 
 
 Fig. 10 represents part of a church wall, showing a but- 
 tress, and half of a window. The jambs are seen at an angle, 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 9 
 
 instead of square with the wall ; because generally windows 
 in churches are so narrow that the splay is a necessity, to in- 
 crease the number of entering rays of light. Not many church 
 windows are made to slide like the ordinary ones, and yet 
 the practice is on the increase. 
 
 Fig. 11 shows how a partition, showing the base, is repre- 
 sented. If base is not desired to be shown, omit the outer 
 lines. The inner lines represent the plaster faces of the two 
 sides of the wall, and the studding is 2 x 6 inches. 
 
 Fig. 11. Fig. 12. Fig. 13. 
 
 Fig. 12 is similar in all respects to the foregoing, except 
 that it represents a partition where the studding is 2x4 
 inches. 
 
 Fig. 13 represents a pocket for sliding doors, and shows 
 how the inside should be lined. The partition in which a set 
 of sliding doors is placed must always be much thicker than 
 an ordinary one, and, according to the thickness of the doors 
 and the size of the studding, varies from eleven to fourteen 
 inches between the plaster faces of the two sides of the wall. 
 
 Fig. 14 illustrates the way of showing a range placed in 
 kitchens. The wall back of it is of studding, covered with 
 sheathing and clapboards. Inside is the plastering and base. 
 These divisions of the wall are not usually shown on scale 
 drawings. The shaded part is brick. 
 
 Fig. 14. Fig. 15. 
 
 Fig. 15 shows section of a chimney in a wooden house, 
 with a fireplace and mantel. The component parts of the 
 wall, again, are not usually shown on scale drawings, but are 
 given here to illustrate the construction. 
 
 Fig. 16 is a section, as usually constructed, of a chimney 
 breast in an upper story — for instance, where no fireplace is 
 desired. It shows the flues, both from below and on the 
 floor, surrounded by a four-inch brick wall. Flues are gen- 
 
10 
 
 DRAFTSMAN’S MANUAL. 
 
 erally called for to be pargetted — that is, plastered with a 
 peculiar composition of mortar ; but many prefer, instead of 
 enforcing that clause, to have the joints perfectly filled with 
 mortar, and the inside face struck flush, plastering the room 
 side of the stack also, to prevent any spark from finding its 
 way through. Thus done, four inches 
 in dwelling-house chimneys — which is 
 the usual thickness of their inside walls 
 — is as good as eight inches if done in 
 the usual careless manner of laying up 
 general walling. The shaded parts 
 are brick, the plastering, furring, etc., showing by an extra 
 line inside. 
 
 Fig. 17 represents how a register in a wall is shown. The 
 shaded part is the wall. Nice wall registers generally have a 
 projecting front, though the majority of them are made flush, 
 then appearing more like Fig. 19, which is a ventilating 
 valve register. Registers in the floor, when used, which 
 ought to be seldom, are shown by lines in an oblong figure, 
 with crossed diameters, and the size in figures marked thereon. 
 
 Fig. 18 shows a hot-air flue in a wall. The flue supplies 
 an upper part, but their location is oftentimes necessary to 
 be determined in the floor below. All hot-air flues should 
 be surrounded by iron lath throughout their passage, and the 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 flue itself and the register-box in the best work are made 
 double, with an inch of space between inner and outer skins, 
 thus reducing the chances of a conflagration from an over- 
 heated furnace to a minimum. The shaded parts are the 
 surrounding wall. 
 
 Fig. 19 illustrates the method of indicating on a plan a ven- 
 tilating flue. The shaded part is a brick wall, and the flue is 
 a notch or jog 4x8 inches. At every opening, where the 
 flue communicates with the room, is placed some form of 
 register controlling the flow of air. In wooden walls a flue of 
 wood or tin should be used. 
 
 « Fig. 20 illustrates the usual way of showing a hot-air fur- 
 nace in a cellar. The walls are of eight-inch brick, and in 
 the centre are shown the grate, fire-pot, and door- way. 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 11 
 
 The usual dimensions needed for these furnaces are from 
 6 x G feel to 8 x 8 feet. When steam is the heating 
 agent, make the brickwork slightly oblong, and omit the 
 central circular fire -pot, etc. In actual plans sometimes it 
 serves a purpose to mark the location of the hot-air flues, as 
 they radiate from the crown of the furnace. 
 
 Fig. 21. — Here is shown an end or side of a bath-room, 
 some eight feet or nine in length, accommodating a bath-tub 
 and seat. The two are usually in close juxtaposition, as the 
 
 G===i 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 waste pipe of the bath-tub discharges into the soil-pipe, and 
 the nearer it is the less costly is the plumbing. The tub is of 
 the dimensions usually of 2 feet 8 inches wide by 6 feet long. 
 A seat may be 20 inches wide by 28 inches long. 
 
 Fig. 22 is a corner wash-stand, piped for hot and cold 
 water, and placed in locations where there is no room to 
 spare. Bath-rooms are usually supplied with either one form 
 or another of wash-basin ; though if there are others in the 
 chambers, one in the bath-room is not so necessary. 
 
 Fig. 22. Fig. 23. 
 
 Fig. 23 is a variation in form from the preceding one, and 
 is used where there is plenty of room. It is a set wash-basin 
 attached to the wall by one side only, and is a little more 
 costly than the corner style shown above. 
 
 Fig. 24 is the form usually given to a sink and surrounding 
 shelf. Where there is a cistern to draw from, a pump is 
 rightly placed as shown. A handy adjunct on the left is a 
 drainer, a cross-barred grating above a slanting surface, 
 draining whatever drips from or upon it into the sink. It is 
 
12 
 
 DRAFTSMAN S MANUAL. 
 
 now more generally not cased up underneath, as continual 
 moisture and darkness caused rot and allowed unseen dirt. 
 Open under it is easily kept clean. 
 
 Fig. 25 illustrates the top of a set of three tubs, as they are 
 put into kitchens and laundries. The dotted lines show the 
 shape inside, shelving forward and under. Each tub has a 
 lid of its own. The size of each tub ought to approximate 22 
 inches wide by 28 inches long, measured inside. The depth 
 may be sixteen inches. The plumbing consists in a hot and 
 
 Fig. 24. Fig. 25. 
 
 cold water faucet for each tub, where there is a boiler con- 
 nected with the range — only cold, when no boiler — and a 
 waste-pipe, plug and chain, all of brass. These pipes should 
 not be put in cold situations, and the tubs should be set on legs 
 up from the floor, so it can be scrubbed. The tubs are made of 
 two-incli white pine clear plank, dadoed, and the joints fitted 
 accurately and painted with thick white-lead before put 
 together. 
 
 Fig. 26 shows the construction of a cupboard. The shaded 
 parts are the inclosing sides and the supporting partitions. 
 The shelves run through, and are about a foot wide. The 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 upper doors are panelled either in wood or glass. Under the 
 broad shelf are drawers, or a larger cupboard. These are 
 built in pantries, store-rooms, and kitchens. 
 
 Fig, 27 represents a cistern tank. Such are usually put in 
 upper stories, and, supplied by either a force-pump or rain- 
 water from the roof, form the source whence the boiler and 
 the other outlets are fed. It is made, like the tubs, of heavy 
 plank, size about 8x4x2 feet, the ends projecting and 
 clamped by iron rods. 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 13 
 
 Fig. 28. — This cut shows the lower end of a flight of stairs. 
 The narrow double lines are the wall — the last three steps are 
 bowed out. On the side opposite the wall stands the newel, 
 to which is attached the rail, which 
 in turn is supported by balusters. 
 
 The turning out at the foot of the 
 rail as it meets the newel is usual 
 where there is room, but in a nar- 
 row hall there would be only a 
 straight line on the face string. 
 
 The lines from rail to wall string are the faces of the risers, 
 and in the upper steps are only dotted in, so that any con- 
 structions under the stairs may be shown in full black lines. 
 
 Fig. 29 shows the manner of representing gas chandeliers. 
 The left, hand one is a four-light, the next three light, the 
 next two-light, the next a hall drop-light, and the next a 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 o$-o 
 o 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 single bracket projecting from the wall. In place of the large 
 circles, sometimes little stars are made for a flame. The cir- 
 cles stand for the globes. 
 
 Fig. 30 illustrates the manner of putting a niche in a corner 
 — at the upper end of a staircase, for instance. It has gen- 
 erally a rule-joint edge, or a bead, and the slab, of marble, 
 at the bottom is made to project enough to receive it, with a 
 good finish. 
 
 0*0 o 
 
 . 2 . 
 
 Fig. 31 is a niche in a square corner, such as in apartments 
 or the end of halls opposite the stairs. It maybe finished 
 like the other, and also with a marble slab at the bottom. 
 
 Fig. 32 gives a representation of a common form of tiled 
 hall or vestibule, the projections seen at top and bottom being 
 
14 
 
 DRAFTSMANS MANUAL. 
 
 at the sills of the double doors. These sills ought to be 
 marble or slate ; then a course of chocolate-colored plain 
 tiles and other brighter -colored ones making a pattern towards 
 the centre. Borders should be in plain, solid colors, no matter 
 how lively the pattern in the centre may be. 
 
 Fig. 33 — We show here the same shape of vestibule covered 
 with a marquetry floor, of vari-colored woods — black walnut, 
 mahogany, tulip, cherry, etc. In a hall- way the border runs 
 around the stairs, so that the pattern is at all points inclosed 
 in a border. 
 
 Fig. 34. — Here is represented an example in the framing 
 plans of floors, etc/ When a chimney or other opening 
 through a floor is made necessary, double the beams on each 
 side, and put across, securely mortised and tenoned, a header 
 of the same section as the doubled trimmers. The shaded 
 parts stand for a brick wall and chimney. If the opening is 
 a stairway, trap -door, or for flues or pipes, domes or sky- 
 
 Fig. 33. Fig. 34. Fig. 35. 
 
 lights, the method is the same ; but the timbers, unless di- 
 rectly supported from below, must be carefully proportioned 
 to bear the weight, cutting, etc. 
 
 Fig. 35. — In stores, banks, etc., are often constructed fire- 
 proof vaults, of no remarkable size perhaps, but of great use 
 and importance, and at a cost not exceeding a good safe, 
 though providing much better and roomier space. Build on 
 a solid or nearly solid foundation two eight-inch walls, with 
 an air space between them of from two to four inches, and 
 the tying brick irregularly but frequently interspersed. The 
 corners should be solid, as shown, and so also the door 
 jambs. The doors and frames are made b} r iron- workers, 
 and are set up, plumbed, and built in as the work proceeds. 
 The floor may be tiled, or bricked and cemented. The mor- 
 tar should be one quarter cement. When the requisite 
 height has been reached, the roof may be made in several 
 different ways, either arched, with tic-rods buried in the 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 15 
 
 material, or with iron beams stretched across the shortest di- 
 ameter, and brick laid in mortar between, for a foot in depth. 
 Then plaster the sides as on any room wall. The vault, if in 
 a high story, may be made with a second one on top, or in a 
 large office building, carried up through, giving a vault on 
 each floor. 
 
 Fig. 36. — In this figure we give one of the commonest forms 
 of store fronts. The girder carrying the front wall of the 
 superstructure is supported by the two iron columns to- 
 
 Fig. 33. Fig. 37. 
 
 wards the centre. Doors recessed, and in front of them a 
 vault light in the floor (see Figs. 38 and 39). Variations of 
 this form are to bring the show-windows forward like bay- 
 windows, or to have the jamb or narrow side-lights at a dif- 
 ferent angle from the right angle. When the girder above is 
 a compound cast and wrought segment, there need be no 
 columns in the front at all, and the doors and show-windows 
 may be altered at any time without disturbing the girder and 
 front of building above. 
 
 Fig. 38. Fig. 39. Fig. 40. 
 
 Fig. 37 is a representation of a smaller or narrower front 
 than the preceding. Here, after the necessary width for the 
 doors is taken out, all the rest should be given to the show- 
 window. If more symmetry is desired, place the column in 
 the centre, and slant the jamb light to the door frame. A 
 vault light is placed in front of the doors. The shaded parts 
 are brick walls. 
 
 Fig 38 shows a vault or floor light, used to light cellars, 
 etc., a. I placed in the floors of stores to transmit the light 
 
16 
 
 DRAFTSMAN'S MANUAL. 
 
 below. It is made of a cast-iron frame with cross bars, re- 
 bated, and the squares of glass are from three quarters of an 
 inch to one and a quarter inch thick, joined accurately at the 
 top edges, and set in cement or putty, so that they are water- 
 tight. Any number of frames can be joined together to make 
 a large light space, but a single frame is not usually larger 
 than 3 x 4 feet. 
 
 Fig. 39. — This vault light is for outside use, in side-walks, 
 in that portion next to -the house or store, and consists of a 
 cast-iron frame as before, but instead of the cross-bars small 
 holes two and a half inches diameter are left, into which 
 are cemented bull’s eyes of glass, the whole of the joints 
 afterwards made tight by painting with tar. Round vault 
 lights of the same description are made to set in the sidewalk, 
 to light large vaults built under it. 
 
 Fig. 40. — This cut shows the construction of a wooden 
 washing floor in a stable, or more properly, carriage house. 
 The top, level with the surrounding plank floor, is formed of 
 
 C 
 
 Fig. 41. 
 
 stout bars of wood, two inches square, properly supported, 
 and about two inches apart. The diagonal diameters are tim- 
 bers, rebated to receive a planking, and inclined four to six 
 inches toward the centre to form a drip converging into the 
 waste-pipe there placed. A washing floor can be constructed 
 in other materials, stone or brick, on the same principle, by 
 making the inclination less, say two inches, and omitting the 
 grating. A screener should be placed over the waste to keep 
 the pipe from being clogged by straws, chips, etc. 
 
 Fig. 41 shows how to draw pews in a church. The dis- 
 tance from back to back varies according to the number de- 
 sired to accommodate. For instance, if at three feet apart (a 
 room}' dimension), a certain number can be seated, and more 
 are desired, place them two feet ten inches, and a score or 
 two will be added to the seating capacity. 
 
 Fig. 42 is a mode of drawing desks and seats in school- 
 rooms. Some desks are only single. Aisles between every 
 
 o o 
 
 Fig. 42 . 
 
draftsman's manual. 
 
 17 
 
 desk, from 24 to 36 inches wide. Some desks have seats com- 
 bined in front, but separate seats are more desirable. 
 
 Stucco cornices, in angles between ceiling and wall, are 
 sometimes shown on plans by a dotted line around the walls 
 of the room. These cornices must follow every break in the 
 walls, and are drawn the required width on the scale, and 
 have figures on them to mark the vertical dimension. Centre- 
 pieces, also, are lightly dotted in, to show the shape, whether 
 round, oval, or lozenge. Some attics or French roof stories 
 have the roof -side walls furred vertical, leaving an air space 
 next to the roof. This is shown on plans by a thin partition, 
 drawn some distance inside of the walls, as much as is neces- 
 sary to give the vertical wall the desired height. 
 
 On plans for churches, stores, schools, and other buildings 
 devoted to special uses, there are many more kinds of repre- 
 sentations. The doors, for public use, in buildings where 
 there are numbers congregated together should be hung so 
 as to swing outward. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON PLANNING. 
 
 The first plan generally drawn is the most important one — be 
 it the first or second floor, and regard must be constantly had 
 in the mind as to what goes above and below it. The manner 
 of roofing particularly must be consulted at every angle, in 
 order that the gables shall not all be different widths and 
 heights, or of diverse pitch. 
 
 So, too, the location of windows and doors must be deter- 
 mined with reference to the building, as a whole, conceived 
 in the mind, rather than the apparent wants of the first floor 
 only. So if windows are properly placed in the stories be- 
 low, the designer when he comes to the elevations will rarely 
 be troubled with the vexation of finding that a raking cornice 
 cuts his intended dormer in two, or his roof so crowded with 
 gables and gablets, hips and valleys, as to make it an expen- 
 sive affair to construct and keep tight. 
 
 There are empirical rules for regulating the size of win- 
 dows so as to admit the supply of light necessary to fully' 
 satisfy the requirements of the room, but as that calculation 
 is rarely necessary, except in the larger structures, such as 
 exchanges, churches, schools, etc. , I will only say here that 
 common-sense should teach any clear-headed designer of or- 
 dinary dwellings the number and size ©£ the windows neces- 
 
18 
 
 DRAFTSMANS MANUAL. 
 
 sary to light the rooms and halls in his plan. Usually win- 
 dows in each story are of uniform height, if not width ; but 
 that is not absolutely necessary. Pantries, closets, bath- 
 rooms, dressing-rooms, stair-lialls, and attics may all have 
 windows differing in shape and size from the rest in each 
 story, and, judiciously combined with the other features of 
 the elevation, they add to its appearance, and indicate their 
 uses. The designer cannot expend too much thought upon 
 the number and position of his windows and doors with ref- 
 erence to the size of the room, what it is to be used for, and 
 the pieces of furniture it is to contain. 
 
 It may seem superfluous to speak of such an obvious duty, 
 but it is one nevertheless which is but too often slackly per- 
 formed, and the result is a bad-looking, inconvenient set of 
 rooms. A parlor should always have one, if not two places 
 where a piano could be placed against a wall far from the 
 sources of heat. A sideboard should be thoughtfully pro- 
 vided for in a dining-room, a large table in a kitchen, and 
 one place certainly, better two, for a bed in every chamber. 
 Also gas brackets should be so arranged as to light a dressing- 
 case, even when it is in a good position for receiving daylight. 
 
 In planning a first floor it is desirable, if it can be done, to 
 face the house at one of the four midway points of the com- 
 pass, such as north-east, north-west, south-east, or south-west. 
 Thus all the rooms are sure, at some portion of the day, to 
 receive sunlight, more or less. Where such a position for the 
 house is impossible, try and make the dining-room face the 
 eastward, or have some windows letting in east light, or if the 
 house is a large one, the breakfast-room might be so placed, 
 and the dining-room be on the west. A sitting-ro6m is pleas- 
 ant if it faces the south. A kitchen may face the north, as 
 from its heated condition it protects the rest of the house 
 from the cold of that quarter. 
 
 In general the living rooms should be so situated as to re- 
 ceive the sun. Water-pipes to set-bowls, bath-tubs, wash- 
 tubs, sinks, and tanks should be run in sheltered situations, 
 care being taken to put them next to chimneys, or in interior 
 partitions, never on outside walls, unless carefully protected 
 and boxed. 
 
 Whatever the direction in which the rooms may be made 
 to face (which with most houses is not a mooted point), the 
 interior arrangement of them is more amenable to circum- 
 stances. It is desirable to have the entrance so placed as to 
 
DRAFTSMANS MANUAL. 
 
 19 
 
 be readily discernible from the outside, sheltered by a porch, 
 or else a vestibule with its outer and inner set of doors. 
 
 The hall to which these doors give access should be roomy 
 near them, and the stairs, if possible, placed in a subordinate 
 passage. Folding or sliding doors to the parlor from such a 
 hall are suitable, but if the stairs are necessarily put near the 
 front door it is sometimes possible to start them at the rear 
 end of the hall, and give the run forward, cutting off the last 
 three or four upper steps by an arch, thus making a clear 
 space near the front door. 
 
 But often the old arrangement is best, especially where the 
 front stairs are the only ones in a house, and a cellar flight 
 must be under them ; though even then a wide close flight 
 might lead from a small hall near the front door and answer 
 all purposes. 
 
 It is generally wished that the front door may be attended 
 to by the servant without necessitating a passing through a 
 room, as the dining or sitting room ; but in contracted cases, 
 either in lot or purse, that cannot always be accomplished. 
 
 The back parlor, or sitting-room, library and chamber, if 
 there is one on the first floor, should open from a hall, either 
 front or rear. A chamber may open from the sitting-room, 
 but it is not to be desired, as the utmost ease of access with 
 possible privacy should be sought after, -with all approaches 
 to bedrooms. Such is always best attained by a hall. 
 
 The pantries and china closets should be so situated that 
 they are on the coldest side of the house, or between the 
 kitchen and dining-room, so as to shut off the odors of cook- 
 ing. A laundry, if only little more than large enough to hold 
 the tubs, is very desirable, to take Monday's slop out of the 
 kitchen, and should open from that room. * 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON EXTERIORS. 
 
 Coal and wood sheds are now nearly obsolete, and those 
 materials are stored in the cellar, access to which ought to be 
 convenient under the back stairs— the door to the cellar open- 
 ing out of the kitchen, or from a passage but a step or so fur- 
 ther. But sometimes a small shed may be inclosed from part 
 of a veranda, running alongside of the kitchen, and the house 
 be no worse in looks for it. 
 
 Verandas should be on the sunny sides of a house, and 
 should not be too freely used unless the climate is one which 
 
 *&®e Appendix B. 
 
20 
 
 draftsman’s manual. 
 
 demands their use. Bay-windows are generally good 
 features, if not too numerous. They may best be used to 
 catch a desired view, or to enlarge a small room ; unless quite 
 large they should not extend above the first floor. The 
 shapes vary, but it is more dignified not to use many, or more 
 than two, forms on the same house. One form of bay has 
 been illustrated, and is a very good one for general use. 
 Then there are bays of a square-angled form, and those 
 whose sides are at an angle of 45°, having the three sides 
 equal, or the second side the longest. Bays of a V shape are 
 capricious, and do not contain much room, and those of a 
 segment or semicircular form are good looking, but are apt 
 to be expensive in execution. 
 
 There are various ways of finishing their roofs, but the 
 most usual way is to make it similar to the veranda roofs near 
 
 by- 
 
 Interiorly the opening into the bay is usually arched, or 
 with a straight lintel, supported by corbels ; but, if the ceil- 
 ing of the bay is on the same level as that of the room, there 
 is no need of an a,rch, but the cornice of the room may, if not 
 too large, be run into the bay, and around its angles. 
 
 The chief reasons for having a dividing line at the ceiling 
 between the bay and the room are, the difference in level 
 sometimes, and the difficulty of taking a large cornice into a 
 bay much too small for it. The bay, if separated from the 
 room by an arch, should always be corniced with a small 
 pattern. 
 
 Oriel windows are bays on upper stories, and usually pro- 
 ject from the walls, supported by brackets, trusses, or con- 
 soles ; and the same remarks will apply to them as were writ- 
 ten about bays, except that they are more rarely used, on ac- 
 count of a rather unwieldy appearance and difficulty of man- 
 agement, except on large constructions. 
 
 When designing gables, it is necessary to observe caution 
 in their disposal, so as not to have two immediately together ; 
 for the old-fashioned wi roof is no longer considered stylish, 
 and never was beautiful. Gables may vary slightly in their 
 pitch from each other, as a little difference is not readily no- 
 ticed ; but too much contrast is to be avoided, if the dwelling 
 is desired to have a finished, well-studied effect. Gables and 
 ridges should have the same heights, or pretty considerable 
 difference the one from the other — that is, it generally looks 
 better to have a subordinate gable some feet lower than 
 
DRAFTSMANS MANUAL. 
 
 21 
 
 the principal one, rather than to come within a few inches 
 of it. 
 
 In houses with a plan approaching a square, it will often 
 happen that there will be a deck at the junction of the ridges 
 of the gables, if they are of equal height ; and where a deck is 
 likely to occur, the gables had better be kept at a uniform 
 width, pitch, and height. But in a very long plan care for 
 the above is not so necessary, as the deck is unlikely to be 
 formed. 
 
 Pediments are mere ornaments, and much might be said to 
 prove that they ought not to be used, except in a very moder- 
 ate way, on cornices where the roof is low-pitched. In the 
 formal classic styles, as they are now used, under the rules of 
 the Renaissance, pediments are more in vogue over windows, 
 doors, pavilions, etc., than in the more ordinary designs of 
 every-day practice. 
 
 The chimneys should be so located on the plans that when 
 they are topped out above the roof they will not be over- 
 shadowed by any part of it, and therefore chimneys generally 
 should not be placed in the outside walls of any house which 
 has a steep-pitched roof. A certain boldness of style may 
 indeed carry off well the tall, spire-like stack, when rising 
 far to clear an impending ridge ; but the boldness must not 
 be confined to the one part only, and hence, unless the whole 
 design is treated alike, one part ought not to have such undue 
 prominence. Besides, there is danger to both roof and chim- 
 ney from snows and storms. A reason, aside from those 
 given above, why chimneys should be planned on inside 
 walls, is that one stack accommodates more rooms, and the 
 heat is better retained, and thus the house is economical ; 
 also, the design is rendered more symmetrical by having the 
 chimney-tops — the highest parts, as a rule — grouped in the 
 centre. 
 
 Towers and cupolas are of individual taste and preference. 
 Some clients think a couple of hundred dollars well spent 
 in such a finish, no matter whether either tower or cupola is 
 ever visited for the sake of the view, or whether there is any 
 view to try and see. Common-sense would, it seems to me, 
 decide at once whether a tower or cupola, aside from the 
 cost, were necessary to a house or not. 
 
 A word about gutters in main cornices. Of course, in bay- 
 windows, porches, and small protections to openings, gutters 
 must be used to some extent, but in main cornices it would 
 
DRAFTSMAN'S MANUAL. 
 
 #2 
 
 be well to try and avoid them ; because, at least in climates 
 inclement during half the year, the ice forming in them is 
 apt to crack and tear the lining, dam up the opening to the 
 conductor, and scale the paint in all places where icicles 
 form, to say nothing of the actual danger attending the fall- 
 ing of large Classes of ice in melting weather. Leaks in gut- 
 ters conduct the water directly to the interior of the house, 
 and are among the most troublesome of the annoyances a roof 
 can inflict, being in the same category with the celebrated 
 leaky roof of the Irishman, whose excuse for not mending it 
 was that when it was fine it didn’t need mending, and when 
 it rained he couldn’t. 
 
 On flat and deck roofs gutters may be avoided by framing 
 the deck exactly like a washing floor, in a carriage house, be- 
 fore described, and taking the conductor down near a con- 
 stantly used chimney. This conductor should be of iron or 
 earthenware, and built into a jog in the brickwork of the 
 chimney. Then the rush of water will make no noise, and 
 the outlet at the roof will never be frozen up, the moist air 
 from the cellar rising through it keeping off the formation of 
 ice ; and, last, there will benoAcicles forming on the cornice. 
 In the case of roofs with a pitch they should be so planned 
 that the slope will be great enough to slide off the snow before 
 it can accumulate, and the doors in the first floor must not 
 be in the sides where the fall would be ; or else in the cornice 
 a gablet may be used over the door to divide the masses, 
 so as to shelter the place where the door is. Low-pitched 
 roofs, and some of greater pitch too, are provided with gut- 
 ters put on a foot or so above the crown mould supported by 
 small braces. A light iron railing is often put on the slope of 
 roofs, in the same position, to arrest falling masses of snow 
 and ice. 
 
 DRAWING THE PLAN. 
 
 The foregoing instructions and illustrations as to the parts 
 of a plan being borne in mind, the learner may now essay to 
 draw the plan of a house. For the first we will suppose an 
 easy plan — say, three rooms on each floor. The house to be 
 frame, resting on a stone foundation ; the main part gabled, 
 and also the rear part, but lower. The cottage is to be for 
 refined occupants, who desire front and rear stairs, large pan- 
 try and china closet room, rooms of liberal size, and the ex- 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 23 
 
 fcerior plain, neat, but in keeping with the scale within 
 doors. 
 
 The object of this plan is, to show the student how to com- 
 bine the parts of plans which have been illustrated before, 
 so we will suppose a simple cottage, but one in which we can 
 show most of the parts brought together as the}" naturally 
 would be. Let the kitchen be on the north side, flanked on 
 the west by the laundry and pantries. Dining-room on the 
 west, hall in centre, and parlor on the east. The south ex- 
 posure protected by a veranda. The laundry is small, as be- 
 fore spoken of ; and a passage connects dining-room with 
 kitchen and hall, and separates it from both, to their mani- 
 fect advantage. Over the kitchen is a room for the servant, 
 furred off for trunk and other closets at the sides, and reached 
 by a rear stairs as well as by a front flight. Over the other 
 two rooms are chambers, spacious and of good height, with 
 closets. A bath-room is in the rear part, handy to the water 
 supplies. The cellar extends under the whole house, and is 
 reached from the outside by a flight of stone steps, and from 
 the kitchen by a flight under the rear stairs. From the copi 
 ous descriptions hitherto given, the parts need not be de- 
 scribed here in detail, but it is sufficient if the learner recog- 
 nize them in their relative positions. 
 
 Points to be remembered in laying out the second floor plan 
 are : As to the stairs, to be sure and give head room enough- 
 six feet and a half to eight feet is the range of the require- 
 ments ; get bath-room as near over the boiler in kitchen as 
 possible, and easy of access from hall and bedrooms ; hall 
 is to be as well-lighted as possible, never to be dark in day- 
 time, even with all doors closed ; chimneys passing through 
 rooms to have a flue devoted to the use of that rqom, and 
 connected with it by a thimble in flue ; cellar windows should 
 be double— that is, a swinging sash inside, for use during the 
 mild and hot months, and another sash in the rebate on the 
 outside, to put in during severe weather. 
 
 USING THE INSTRUMENTS. 
 
 The mere drawing of the lines on the paper, guided by the 
 T square and triangles, is simple. 
 
 Procure a board, with straight edges and square corners, 
 and with four thumb tacks, secure to it a sheet of paper, 
 about 18 x 24 inches. Holding in the left hand, lightly but 
 
24 
 
 draftsman’s manual. 
 
 firmly, the stock, or cross-piece of the T square, as it rests on 
 the board, with the stock on and up to the left edge of the 
 board, slide it to or from you according to the position of the 
 lines, and all the lateral lines, or those from side to side, 
 may be made. For the vertical ones take a triangle, place 
 one side on the top edge of the blade of the square, and with 
 the fingers of the left hand so hold the triangle that the verti- 
 cal or oblique lines may be made, sliding it to right or left as 
 needed, and never forgetting to keep the lower part of the 
 palm of the left hand on the blade of the square, always ex- 
 ercising a gentle pressure to keep the stock up to the edge of 
 
 the board, so that the square and triangles will be sure to 
 work true. Circles and regular curves are made by pencil 
 compass ; and care must be taken by him who would become 
 a neat draftsman not to press the point in too hard, and to 
 move the light hand, in which the compass is held, in a 
 slight circle, to keep the pencil point touching the paper, but 
 not too hard, lest the pencil take the place of the pivot point, 
 and out comes the point and scrape goes the pencil, to the 
 great disgust of the draftsman. After the first-floor plan is 
 delineated, many designers proceed to draw the elevations. 
 The upper floors are comparatively easy, and so is the cellar. 
 Thus the same process with square and triangle is with them 
 to be repeated — indeed, these two instruments are in constant 
 action. 
 
DRAFTSMAN S MANUAL. 
 
 25 
 
 DESIGNING THE ELEVATIONS. 
 
 As previously directed, the style of the roof should have 
 been studied at the time of planning the first floor, so that, if 
 a gable roof is intsnded, the widths, pitch, and consequent 
 height of ridge will come out right. 
 
 If a level cornice hip roof or a French roof be designed, the 
 breaks in the walls may be less carefully arranged. Follow- 
 ing- our intended programme, we will make the main part 
 with a gable roof, running from side to side, and a gablet 
 over projection in centre. The rear is also gabled, but lower 
 t han the main part. 
 
 Fix a piece of paper, as before, large enough to take the 
 intended design, and, leaving room enough at the bottom for 
 lettering, and extending the cellar walls below the grade, 
 draw the ground line, running the pencil along the top edge 
 of the square nearly across the paper. Then determine the 
 height above the ground the first floor is to be. It varies 
 from two feet, about the lowest, to four feet, except in pecu- 
 liar circumstances, when it must be placed accordingly. 
 Draw another line at this point, parallel to the first. Then at 
 the side or margin of the paper draw two parallel vertical 
 lines, using the triangle, as far apart as the thickness of the 
 
26 
 
 DRAFTSMAN’S MANUAL. 
 
 projected wall. This is to represent a section of the wall, 
 and the floor lines must be run from it just far enough to 
 show what they are. Next determine how high you want the 
 first and second stories, and mark the ceiling of the first story 
 on the wall, and draw the line out. One foot above this line, 
 mark and draw out another, representing the top of the sec- 
 ond floor. The same done higher up on the wall will deter- 
 mine the height of the second story. As the cottage we are 
 drawing has no third story, this is as far up as we shall go. 
 Beginning again at the first floor, measure down from its un- 
 der side from six and a half to seven and a half feet, jfnd 
 draw a line there parallel with the other floor lines. This is 
 the top of the cellar floor. 
 
 The thickness is according to circumstances ; as for in- 
 stance, if of brick, laid in sand, two and a half inches will be 
 the distance from the top line to the lower one, denoting the 
 thickness of the floor. If of broken stone, finished with 
 cement, from six to eight inches will be the requisite thick- 
 ness. 
 
 The wall shown above is of one thickness from the first 
 floor to the plate ; below the first floor it is of stone, twenty 
 or twenty-four inches thick, down to the cellar floor, at and 
 under which, from eight to sixteen inches thick, it widens to 
 a footing course, six inches wider each side of the net cellar 
 walls. 
 
 The plate is the bearing beam, at the top of the wall, where 
 
draftsman's manual. 
 
 27 
 
 the rafters rest ; and its height above or below the ceiling of the 
 .second story is determined solely by the taste of the designer ; 
 sometimes forming a broad frieze, and having the cornice high 
 above the second story windows, and sometimes bringing 
 down the cornice till it overhangs and shades the window 
 heads, or they are broken up through it. This design shows 
 a medium height, and not too great projection of rafters. 
 The pitch of the rafters too is a point left entirely to the de- 
 signer, though circumstances sometimes point out whether a 
 roof should be steep or low-pitched. When we have deter- 
 mined these points on our marginal sketch, the first floor 
 plan is placed above where the elevation is to be drawn, and 
 fastened there, with the front downwards. Then draw light 
 lines down vertically from the corners and openings, or, bet- 
 ter, to avoid marking up the paper too much, place the stock 
 of the square at the bottom edge of the board, with the tongue 
 pointing vertically, instead of horizontally, as before ; and, 
 just bringing the edge right or left to the point desired on the 
 plan, make a mark on the sheet where the elevation is to be 
 drawn — the corner lines may be struck up long, and the win- 
 dow marks shorter. 
 
 Then replace the square so as to work it on the left side of 
 the board, and draw horizontal lines from the marginal fig- 
 ure, called the section — first at the cornice, giving a line for 
 every member next the frieze, and then below that for the 
 heads and sills of the windows. These last are placed on the 
 section by the following rules : 
 
 Sills should vary from twenty to thirty inches high from 
 the floor, and the heads of windows should be a foot 
 to two feet from the ceilings. Veranda cornices are best 
 placed at the same line as that forming the top of the 
 second floor, and their cornices and finish under in small- 
 er proportion, but resembling the main cornice. These out- 
 side features being so much more variable in appearance, 
 at the will of the designer, it would take too much space to 
 illustrate them more at length than is done here, nor would 
 it be profitable, as no two houses are ever designed alike. 
 The most usual division of lights to a sash is now four to an 
 opening, or two lights to the upper and two to the lower 
 sash. A fine appearance is gained by having only two lights 
 to an opening, or one to each sash, but when used it must be 
 in an appropriate situation — not, for instance, in a thousand- 
 dollur cottage. 
 
28 
 
 draftsman’s manual. 
 
 Plate glass must always be used in as large lights as possi- 
 ble, not divided as sheet-glass may be. 
 
 Front doors usually have figured or embossed glass in the 
 upper panels. If there are two sets of doors, the outside set 
 has glass in the small top panels, and the inside set in the 
 long upper panels. 
 
 It will readily be seen from the foregoing that the object of 
 these pages has been to teach or show the learner how to rep- 
 resent on paper those parts of the plans of houses which do 
 not vary much ; the same could not be done with external 
 features, as they vary, not only with every designer, but in 
 every elevation that every designer makes. With practice 
 will come facility and the representation of many things not 
 here shown — original perhaps with him who makes them. 
 
 As for the elevations, their component forms are much less 
 arbitrary than those of the plans ; hence the desirability — nay, 
 the necessity rather — of leaving the further discussion of 
 them to each reader, who will be, it is hoped, also a student. 
 
 TRACING AND INKING. 
 
 These operations are simply mechanical, but require a 
 light, steady touch, and care in handling the instruments. 
 
 After drawing in pencil some time, and being accustomed 
 to sliding the square and triangles around over lines just 
 made, it requires constant thought to avoid doing the same 
 when inking over on the same paper the pencil lines which 
 are drawn ; or when putting the ink on the tracing-cloth, 
 through which can be seen the pencil or ink lines on the paper 
 underneath. 
 
 Commence operations by rubbing up the ink. Pure water 
 is good, and so is vinegar. Put a small quantity in the well, 
 in the end of the ink slab — not two thirds full — and taking 
 the stick of ink, dip it in the liquid every three or four rubs, 
 until it is perfectly black. That point can be readily per- 
 tained by trying it with a pen on white paper. When dry it 
 will show if black enough. 
 
 Fill now the compass pen, and after wiping off the super- 
 fluous ink, graduate the thickness of the line, and make first 
 on the inking or tracing all circles or parts of circles. Usually 
 when the last of these are done the first completed are dry. 
 Always commence at the upper edge, that farthest from you. 
 When done with any inking instrument always wipe it 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 2b 
 
 thoroughly, which prevents the thick ink from drying on it, 
 and rendering it unfit for a second use, until it is cleaned at 
 cost of some time spent. Then, filling the ruling pen, move 
 the square up until the top edge coincides with the highest 
 horizontal line, and carefully draw over it, spreading the ink 
 as you go. 
 
 The pen needs to be held upright, both nibs touching the 
 paper or cloth. Always move the square down/w?^ the wet 
 ink lines, remembering that if the square touches them a 
 brushy-looking smudge is the result, hard to remedy. 
 
 When all the horizontal lines are inked and dry, then the 
 vertical ones may be attempted. Take a triangle, place it 
 upon the top edge of the square, hold it with the left hand, so 
 the vertical edge will be on the right. Keep the square stock 
 up to the edge of the board by pressure with the left palm, 
 and draw the ink lines from up, down, along the vertical 
 edge of the triangle. With lines at other angles the process 
 is the same, always keeping the square as a base upon which 
 the triangle slides up to the edge of the board. Finish by 
 making the little connecting irregular lines, such as cornice 
 profiles, cut work, etc., with a fine writing pen, making all 
 joinings neatly. 
 
 This completes the process of outlining. A nicer appear- 
 ance is given to both plans and elevations by shading. A 
 heavy line is placed on the side of walls, cupboards, sinks, 
 corner boards, window and door frames, eaves, posts, etc., 
 opposite to that from which the light is supposed to come — 
 presumedly the upper left-hand corner, though any other 
 point might as well be taken. Shading and graduated 
 shadows are likewise put on white paper drawings, not trac- 
 ings, with a brush and washes of India-ink. 
 
 The lightest tints are put on first, and succeeding darker 
 ones up to the part in deepest shade, and the edge of each 
 one, while yet wet, worked off to blend with the next lighter, 
 with a clean brush, wet in clear water. A piece of blotting 
 paper, held in the left hand, and often applied to the spots of 
 color left where the brush stops, will greatly assist in preserv- 
 ing an even tone. The shadows on rounded objects have two 
 lights, one high light on the side of the direct illumination, 
 and one on the opposite side, lower in tone, from reflected light. 
 
 The last process before the coloring is figuring the 
 scale drawings. Each sheet must have the scale marked 
 jn it, and in addition parts where care must be exercised^ 
 
30 
 
 DRAFTSMANS manual. 
 
 pretty generally all the parts — such as thickness of walls, 
 sizes of doors, sash, posts, studding, joists, distances between 
 floors, etc., etc., are carefully figured. 
 
 Plans must have the figures giving the length of sides to 
 correspond or tally, and sections must give height of 
 stories, size of joists, studding, projection of rafters, etc. 
 There cannot be too much figuring done, unless the plan 
 would become confused by so many dimensions being placed 
 upon it. It is safe to say, give all the important ones and as 
 many of the minor ones as possible. Besides, it makes the 
 drawing of the full-size details much easier and more reliable. 
 
 In coloring both paper drawings and tracings great care is 
 necessary to get the volume of tint even, and not of greater 
 intensity in one spot than another. Use a pretty full brush, 
 and stir the color about every brushful ; spread the brush 
 so as to fill all the space to be colored if possible, and where 
 the brush leaves off blot up the quantity left unspread with a 
 clean piece of blotting paper. When about to color inked 
 drawings on paper, be sure and clean it off thoroughly before 
 beginning, and use fresh made ink ; then the lines will not 
 spread. 
 
 THE ARCHITECT. 
 
 A PROFESSOR OF ARCHITECTURE. OR TIIE ART OF BUILDING-. 
 
 In discussing the first part of my title, I hope to make 
 it plain who can and who ought to be holders of the above 
 appellation ; for there are many in the ranks of the building 
 trades who from their experience and knowledge can correct 
 many a one called architect on important rules of practice. 
 These, if they would study proportion, the styles, and the 
 history of architecture, can become, truly speaking, archi- 
 tects. And, conversely, there are many who write “ Archi- 
 tect ” after their names who know nothing but how to make 
 marks on paper which could not be built, or to copy other 
 men’s work. 
 
 These ought not to swell the lists of the profession, and 
 would be better employed in being draftsmen simply, or by 
 going to work at tlie practical part of architecture, “ the art 
 of building,” and so correcting from experience their former 
 errors of ignorance. 
 
 Those who ought to be architects are born with more or 
 less aptitude for kindred occupations, and in boyhood are 
 
draftsman's manual. 
 
 1 
 
 noted for constructive ability and eany liking for practising the 
 delineation of objects of mechanical construction. They hang 
 with unabating interest about buildings, and, as soon as old 
 enough, if wisely guided, will learn regularly the operative car- 
 pentry or masonry which so delights them. After a few years’ 
 of intelligent labor, and while still young, a course of drafts- 
 manship in an architect’s office will prepare such an one finally 
 for the expression of his conceptions, and, during this period, 
 he should master the use of the following drawing instruments : 
 rulers, ordinary and parallel, ruling pen, compasses, with pen 
 and pencil, bow-sweeps, as well as the construction and use of 
 simple scales, such as I, 2, 4 or more feet to the inch, showing 
 inches ; or such as f , |, f, or other fraction of full size, 
 
 or of any given ^cale or drawing ; and the meaning of such 
 terms as plan, elevation (fron% back, or side), section, or sectional 
 elevation. 
 
 He should understand the object bond in brick work, i. e. t 
 English bond, Flemish bond, or English bond with Flemish 
 facing, secret bond, and how it is attained in walls up to three 
 bricks thick, in the following instances, viz.: footings 
 
 with off-sets, angles of buildings, connection of external and 
 internal walls, window and door openings with reveals and 
 square jambs, external gauged arches (camber, segmental, and 
 semi-circular), internal discharging arches over lintels, and in- 
 verted arches. 
 
 * He should know where to put wood, bricks or plugging, and 
 their use, the construction and uses of brick corbe ling, and the 
 construction of trimmer- arches in fire-places. 
 
 He should be able to give sections and e evations to scale, of 
 the following kinds of mason-work. viz., uncoursed and coursed 
 rubble, block in course and ashlar, with their bond, a d the 
 proper dimensions of the stones, as to height, width of beds, 
 and their length, and of the following dressings, viz.: window 
 sills, window and door jambs, plain window and door heads, 
 door steps, string courses, quoins, copings, common co nices, 
 blocking courses ; and of the following methods of connecting 
 stones, viz.: by cramps, dowels, joggles, and lead plugs. 
 
 1 He should be able to show how to join timbers by halving, 
 gapping, notching, cogging, scarfing, fishing, and mortise and 
 enon, as applied to wall plates, roof timbers, floors, cei ings, 
 and partitions. 
 
 He should be able to draw, from given dimensions, King and 
 Queen post roofs, and collar beam roofs, also laminated beam 
 curved, and the combination of laminated beam and Howe 
 truss girder used in depots, rinks, and exhibition halls, showing 
 the details of the framing and iron work. 
 
 He should be able to draw from given dimensions, single, 
 double, and framed floors, with or without ceilings beneath 
 them ; showing modes of supporting, stiffening, and framing 
 
32 
 
 DRAFTSMAN S MANUAL. 
 
 the timbers ; trimming round hearths and wells of stairs ; also 
 floor coverings of boards or battens, rebated and filleted, 
 ploughed and tongued, and laid close, blind nailed, broken 
 joints, beveled or square butt joints. 
 
 He should be able to draw in elevation, from given dimen- 
 sions, a framed partition with door openings. 
 
 He should be able to draw, in elevation, and give vertical 
 and horizontal sections of solid door and window frames. 
 
 He should be able to describe, by drawings, b adings of dif- 
 ferent kinds, dove-tailing, cro>s-grooving, rebating, plough 
 grooving, champering, rounde l nosings and housings. 
 
 He should be able to draw, in elevation, and give vertical and 
 horizontal sections of the following doors, viz.: ledged, ledged 
 and braced, framed and braced, paneled, battened, and the 
 mode of putting them together, position of hinges and furniture, 
 as well as to describe by drawing, the following terms, as 
 applied to paneled doors^viz. : square and flat, raised panel, 
 bead and butt, bead flush, flush moulded, and raised moulded, 
 all on one or both sides. 
 
 He should be able to draw, in elevation, and to give vertical 
 and horizontal sections of the following window sashes and 
 frames, viz. : single or double hung sashes, with square, beveled 
 or moulded bars and cased frames ; casement sashes hung to 
 solid frames, with method of hanging and securing in each 
 case. 
 
 He should be able to draw, in section and elevation, the 
 flashings on chimneys and parapets, the ridge rolls, and hip and 
 yalley flashings, gutters, cant boards, connections with leaders, 
 and flat tinning. 
 
 He should be able to give an elevation and a section of the 
 slating of a roof laid with different sized slates, on boards or 
 battens, and show the best methods of making such a roof 
 weather and wind-tight. 
 
 He should be acquainted with the proper cross-section for cast 
 and wrought iron beams for use in positions of floor beams, or 
 cantilevers, and coupled or tripled by boiling together through 
 separators, for use as girders, and be able to draw such a sec- 
 tion in its right proportions from given data. 
 
 He should be able to draw, in elevation, from given dimen- 
 sions, and skeleton diagrams, ordinary iron roofs, up to 40 feet 
 span, showing the sec ions of different parts, and methods of 
 connecting them. 
 
 He should also be able to make and explain the following : — 
 
 1st. Free-hand sketches explanatory of any details of con- 
 struction, such as the joints of iron and wooden structures, and 
 other parts requiring illustration on a large scale. x 
 
 2d. The nature of the stresses to which the different parts of 
 simple structures are subjected, as follows : 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 33 
 
 * In the case of beams, fixed at one end, such as cantilevers, 
 and fixed at both ends or supported at both ends, as in girders, 
 the student should know which side of the beam is in compres- 
 ison and which in tension. 
 
 He should also be acquainted with the best forms for struts, 
 ties, and beams, such as floor joists, exposed to transverse 
 stress. 
 
 He should know the difference in the strength of a girder 
 carrying a given load at its centre or uniformly distributed. 
 
 In the ordinary kinds of wooden or iron roof trusses, and 
 framed s ructures of a similar description, he should be able to 
 distinguish members in compression from those in tension. 
 
 3d. The nature, application, and characteristic peculiarities 
 of the following materials in ordinary use for building purposes, 
 viz. : Bricks of different kinds in common use, stones, granite, pure 
 lime, hydraulic lime, Portland, Roman, and Rosendale cement, 
 mortars, concretes, grout, asphalt, timber of different kinds in 
 common use, cast and wrought-iron. 
 
 4th. Constructive details, as follows : 
 
 The ordinary methods of timbering excavations, such as for 
 foundations to walls, or for laying down sewers, the erection of 
 bricklayers’ and masons’ scaffolding, the construction of trav- 
 elers, the use of piles in foundations, hoop-iron bond in brick- 
 work, diagonal and herring-bone courses in brickwork, damp 
 proof courses, bond timber in walls and the objections to it. 
 
 He should know how bricks are laid in hollow walls, window 
 and door openings with splayed jambs, flues, chimneys, fire- 
 places, and arches up to about 20 feet span, how mortar joints 
 are finished off, and the thickness usually allotted to them, why 
 bricks and stones ought to be wetted before being laid. 
 
 He should be acquainted with the construction of brick 
 ashlar walls, rubble ashlar walls, stone stairs, wooden stairs, 
 both dog-legged and open newell, skylights, fire-proof floors, 
 such as brick or other fire-proof material in arched form, sup- 
 ported, or rolled, or cast-iron girders or beams, c rcular and 
 egg-shaped drains, roofs of iron or wood, the fixing of archi- 
 traves, linings, skirtings and wainscotings to walls, shutters to 
 windows, lath, plaster, and battening to walls, roof coverings 
 of tiles, slate, and zinc or lead, and slate ridges and hips. 
 
 He must possess a complete knowledge of building materials, 
 their application, strength, and how to judge of their quality, 
 and, in the case of iron, of the processes of manufacture, and 
 the points to be attended to in order to insure sound castings 
 and good rivetings. 
 
 He must be able to solve simple problems in the theory 'of 
 construction, such as in the case of a beam supported at both 
 ends, to ascertain the proportion of the load transmitted to each 
 point of support, and to determine the safe dimensions of iron 
 or wooden beams subjected to dead loads. 
 
34 
 
 draftsman’s manual. 
 
 In ordinary roof trusses and framed structures of a similar 
 description, he must be able to trace the stresses, brought into 
 action by the load, from the points of application to the points of 
 support, as well as to determine the nature and amount of the 
 stresses on the different members of the truss, and consequently 
 the quantity of material required in each part. 
 
 In ordinary walls and retaining walls, he must be able to as- 
 certain the conditions necessary to stability, independent of the 
 strength of the mortar. 
 
 But, when others pronounce him incomparable, he will feel, 
 looking at his art from the standpoint he has attained, that he 
 has but just begun to be equipped for his life-work, and that all 
 too soon he will have to rest when all he would desire would be 
 to practice faithfully what he had spent years to learn, and 
 assist others to reach his position with less expenditure of 
 time and trouble. 
 
 For those who, I presume, are a majority of my readers, 
 and who have been through the preliminary stages of hand- 
 work in shop or shed ; and for those who, still younger, are 
 desirous of entering the offices of their imagination s great 
 lights in the profession, I will add a short, and, I fear, imperfect 
 list, of works — illustrated and scientific — which, well studied, 
 will lead them on to desire further knowledge ; and thus set, 
 improving, and on the right path, it rests with themselves if 
 they succeed, or whether they, have not mistaken their hopes 
 for evidences of ability. 
 
 VALUABLE BOOKS FOR A STUDENT OF 
 ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 Mitchell’s “ Rudimentary Manual of Architecture.” 
 
 Professor Babcock’s “ Series upon Elementary Architecture.’’ 
 Riddell’s “ Practical Carpenter and Joiner.” 
 
 Mitchell’s “ Stepping Stone to Architecture.” 
 
 Monckton’s “Carpenter and Joiner.” 
 
 Gould’s “ Carpenter’s and Builder’s Assistant.” 
 
 Plummer’s “Carpenter’s Guide.” 
 
 Riddell’s “ Lessons on Hand-Railing.” 
 
 Monckton’s “Stair Builder.” 
 
 Gould’s “ American Stair Builder.” 
 
 Burns’ “ Notes on Building Construction.” 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 35 
 
 Gwilt’s “ Encyclopedia of Archi ecture.” 
 
 R. G. Hatfield’s ‘‘American House Carpenter.” 
 
 R. G. Hatfield’s “ Theory of Transverse Strains.” 
 
 Parker’s “ Glossary of Architecture.” 
 
 De Volson Wood’s “Theory and Construction of Bridges 
 and Roofs.” 
 
 Viollet Le Due’s “ Discourses on Architecture.” 
 
 A. Rosengarten’ s “ Handbook of Architectural Styles.” 
 
 G. G. Zeriffi’s “Manual of Art, with Special Reference to 
 Architecture, etc.” 
 
 “Ventilation of Buildings.” Butler. 
 
 Leed’s “ Treaties on Ventilation.” 
 
 Saeltzer’s “ Treatise on Acoustics.” 
 
 Hallett’s “ Specifications.” 
 
 Eveleth’s “ School-House Architecture.” 
 
 Gardner’s “ Common-Sense in Church Building.” 
 
 Bicknell’s “ School-House and Church Architecture.” 
 Palliser’s “ Specifications.” 
 
 Bicknell’s “Builder’s Contracts.” 
 
 Bicknell’s “ Detail Cottage and Constructive Architecture.” 
 Bicknell’s “ Cottage and Villa Architecture.” 
 
 “ Modern Architectural Designs and Details.” 
 
 Powell’s “Foundation and Foundation Walls.” 
 
 Withers’ “ Church Architecture.” 
 
 Ruskin’s “ Seven Lamps of Architecture.” 
 
 Tuthill’s “ Practical Lessons in Architectural Drawing.” 
 Vogdes’ “ Architect’s and Builder’s Pocket Companion.” 
 
 The journals of current events of interest containing reports 
 and papers on the scientific and archaeological points studied in 
 the profession, and also enumerating the state of work in the 
 United States and Canadas, with cullings from the European 
 press, are : 
 
 The American Architect and Building News . Weekly and 
 Monthly. Published in Boston. 
 
 Carpentry and Building. Monthly. New York. 
 
 Builder and Woodworker. Monthly. New York. 
 
 The Manufacturer and Builder . Monthly. New York. 
 
36 
 
 draftsman’s manual. 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Additional Remarks regarding Draftsman's Outfit . 
 
 The drawing- board should be perfectly square at the cor- 
 ners and true on the edges, made from i£ inch stuff, and 24 by 
 36 inches is a good size for most necessary drawings, although it 
 wi 1 be found very convenient, in practice, to have a larger one 
 of the dimensions 32 by 48 inches. It should be of well sea- 
 soned white pine, and should have no clamps across the ends, 
 because even the best seasoned wood will swell and shrink with 
 the change from dry to wet weather, and if the clamps project 
 a hair’s breadth beyond the edge, they throw the tongue of the 
 square considerably off the true line. The clamps should be of 
 hard wood, about 1 by inches, screwed to the board the 
 stiffest way of the section of the clamp, and the screws should 
 be inserted through slots i inch long instead of round holes, so 
 the swelling and shrinking of the boards will be accommodated 
 instead of restrained. 
 
 The T squares are instruments for the ruling of long straight 
 lines, and may be used on either edge of the board for horizon- 
 tal lines, or at the top and bottom for vertical ones. They are 
 made of all kinds of hard wood, some with both edges of the 
 tongue parallel and some that are very long or required to be 
 very stiff have the lower edge oblique, sloping from the stock to 
 the point. The most convenient form is the one in which the 
 tongue is planted on the stock, thus allowing a triangle to move 
 freely when near or over the stock. When the stock or head 
 projects up as much as it dots down , much care must be taken 
 in keeping the hypothenuse of the triangle on the right , or it 
 will be impossible to make vertical lines close to the head. 
 
 Another useful form of square is the bevel in which the 
 head or stock is movable on the end of the tongue, on a 
 pivot which has a large milled head nut, working on a screw, so 
 adjusted that the head can be made to take any angle to the 
 tongue, and so enabling, by the usual manipulation of the in- 
 strument, parallel oblique lines, such as cornices on gables, 
 pediments, stairs, and rake wainscoting to^ be drawn with 
 greater ease and quickness than if the usual form of square 
 were used, and a triangle. A combination of these two squares 
 has the head split so that one side can be used as a permanent 
 square, and the other shifted so as to form a bevel. 
 
 The triangles are of various sizes, and in practice, two sets 
 are desirable, one a small one, preferably of black rubber, and 
 thick rather than thin, as they will not be so likely to slip dnder 
 the edge of the tongue of the square. These are used for 
 drawing small drawings, such as scale plans, elevations, etc., 
 where a line not more than four inches long is likely to be 
 
draftsman’s manual. 
 
 37 
 
 drawn. But for larger drawings, a set of triangles, the sides 
 of which are 1 2 and 14 inches long, are indispensable. For 
 full size details, even larger ones are convenient. 
 
 The thumb tacks are made like common tacks, with heads 
 varying from the size of an old fashioned three cent piece to that 
 of a dime. The points are of steel, round, and screwed into the 
 head, in the best kinds, and simply riveted in, in the commoner 
 kinds. The best have German silver heads, and the common 
 ones bra~s. They are used to fasten temporary drawing sheets 
 to the board, and are pressed in with the thumb, and can be 
 easily withdrawn by running under the broad head a thin knife- 
 blade. Finger-nails are good for the purpose, while they last, 
 which is usually not long. Pencils can be obtained of various 
 makes, the best being of foreign make, called the Siberian, 
 m^de by A. W. Faber. The 3H is the most useful, the harder 
 grades only coming useful in extra fine work, on special paper. 
 
 Rubber can be obtained also of various shapes, sizes, styles 
 and qualities, but the best is A. W. Faber’s Artist’s Gum, large 
 cakes. This quality works best on all grades of paper, and is 
 neither too hard nor too soft for ad kinds of use. 
 
 An ink slab is to grind the India i tk on, and is made of 
 either earthenware, slate, or ground glass, and the best form is 
 a circular shape, dishing toward the centre, where there is a 
 deep well There is a cover, and ink will keep in usable con- 
 dition in it from three to four days. 
 
 The earthenware color saucers come in a nest, that is to say, 
 so fitted together that six of them make one set. with lips and 
 ledges so that they sit securely i or . pke when not in use. 
 Other saucers are all open, and have six or oir;e inclined divi- 
 sions for different colored water-colors. 
 
 The camel’s hair brushes most used are of three or four sizes, 
 from the smallest, about as large as the lead of a lead pencil, 
 up to a fiat brush in a handle the size of an ordinary pen-holder. 
 These are used to lay on the colors red, forb-ick, yellow for 
 wood, blue for stone and iron, brown for black-walnut and 
 brown-stone, etc., etc., and after use should always be rinsed 
 clean, and well dried. 
 
 The water-colors, red, yellow, blue and brown, may be sup- 
 plemented by as many more, if desired, but the red should be 
 carmine, the yellow, ochre, the blue, French blue, and the 
 brown, Vandyke brown. Care must be taken to wipe the end 
 of the cake dry after rubbing the color, or the dampness thus 
 left will be apt to permeate the cake and cause it to crumble. 
 
 The India ink of the best kind will give the most satisfac ory 
 results, but there is a cho ce between an ink that dries glossy, 
 and one that dries a dead black. The latter is the most pre- 
 ferred, but is hard to secure. The same care in keeping 
 dry must be exercised, or the htick will crumble to unusable 
 fragments. 
 
38 
 
 draftsman’s manual. 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 THE PROPORTION OF ROOMS 
 
 is a question that has often been discussed, but, as far as I am 
 aware, has never been definitely settled, and prob ibly never 
 will be. I think, however, that the relative proportions of a 
 large room wou d be quite inappropriate for a sifiall one. For 
 instance, the double square, which might do for a room 20 feet 
 by 40 feet, would, on the other hand, be very inconvenient, if 
 made 10 feet by 20 feet. 
 
 Rooms 20 feet by 40 feet are handsome and useful, but ro^ms 
 formed to correspond with the le ser figures (10 feet by 20 feet) 
 are not of a useful shape. It is therefore necessary to devise a 
 kind of sliding scale, giving more squareness to small rooms 
 and more length to large ones. As to height, we leave that an 
 open question ; some would make them a greater height than 
 others, according to the uses »o which they are to be put, aside 
 from the question of strict proportion on the one hand, and of 
 acoustic perfection on the other. The proportion of height 
 should generally range from two-thirds to three-fourths of the 
 width, and must depend on whether the apartment is lighted 
 from the end, or side, or ceiling. Most frequently it would be 
 from one end and one side. 
 
 The sliding scale proposed is as follows : 
 
 LENGTH. BREADTH. 
 
 50 feet. 0 . 0 ... c ... « 0 . 
 
 40 
 
 36 “ 
 
 30 4 .... 0 ... 0 .. . . 
 
 30 
 
 25 
 
 . . 20 
 
 feet. 
 < < 
 
 ♦ < 
 
 * « 
 
 2C “ _ 
 
 
 " 6 inches. 
 
 < t 
 
 20 “ 
 
 15 
 
 18 “ 
 
 
 ' i 
 
 is “ • ............ 
 
 12 
 
 4 ‘ 6 inches. 
 
 ll “ 
 
 II 
 
 < « 
 
 10 “ 
 
 ......... .IO 
 
 > < 
 
 The principle is very simple, namely : that, starting with a 
 room 30 feet by 20 feet, we add or subtract 2 feet from the 
 length for every 1 foot of the breadth. Thus, if a room is in- 
 tended to be 22 feet long (that is, 8 feet less than the 30 feet), 
 then the breadth should be 4 feet less than the 20 feet, or 16 
 feet. Any one can carry the rule in his memory without much 
 difficulty, simply calling to mind 30 by 20 and making an allow- 
 ance of 2 feet of length for every 1 foot of breadth, whether 
 increasing or diminishing in size. The scale above given is of 
 practical dimen -ions for dining-rooms, drawing-rooms, very 
 nearly of billiard-rooms, and as it descends, of other apart- 
 ments. Of course, no one would be so absurd as to advocate 
 every room in a house being strictly to such a scale, but it af- 
 fords hints of proportions which would generally be useful and 
 appropriate. 
 
CATALOGUE 
 
 OF 
 
 VALUABLE BOOKS 
 
 ON 
 
 ARCHITECTURE, 
 
 Carpentry and Building, 
 
 PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY 
 
 ’WXXilliX-A.M: T- COMSTOCK, 
 6 ASTOR PLACE NEW YORK, 
 
 wyAll Books in this Catalogue sent post-paid on receipt of price. Circular of 
 Drawing Instruments on application. 
 
40 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 A.n Entirely New and Original J Fork, 
 
 PRACTICAL LESSONS 
 
 Arcliteciml Drating, 
 
 How to make the Working Draw- 
 ings for Buildings . 
 
 44 pages descriptive letter press, illustrated b.y 33 full page 
 plates (one in colors), and 33 woodcuts, showing 
 methods of construction and representation. 
 
 The work embraces Scale Drawings of Plans, Elevations, Sec- 
 tions and Details of Frame, Brick and Stone Buildings, with fuF 
 descriptions and a form of Specifications adapted to the same. 
 
 Suited to the wants of Architectural Students, Carpenters, 
 Builders, and all desirous of acquiring a thorough knowledge of 
 Architectural Drawing and Construction. 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Chap. I. — Introduction. Chap. II. — A Small Frame House. 
 Chap. III. — A Frame Building. Chap. IV. — A Brick Build- 
 ing. Chap. V. — A Stone Building. Chap. VI. — The Specifica- 
 tions. Chap. VII. — Color. 
 
 By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A.M., Architect. 
 
 One large 8vo volume, oblong . Cloth. 
 
 PRICE, POST-PAID, $2.50. 
 
6 ASTOK PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 41 
 
 EDITORIAL NOTICES 
 
 —OF — 
 
 Practical Lessons in Architectural Drawing 
 
 William T. Comstock, successor to Bicknell & Comstock, an- 
 nounces a new architectural book, which deserves special notice. 
 
 The text is very full, and embraces, besides the description of 
 the plans and drawings, many suggestions and directions which 
 architects and builders will find of great use. The author is Mr. 
 William B. Tuthill, the well-known architect, and he has made 
 the most complete and most practical book for students and 
 builders ever prepared in this country. It will be published in 
 good style and at a price which will place it within the means of 
 all workmen who need it. — 'The American Bookseller . 
 
 The work is designed as a guide to the making of working 
 drawings and specifications for buildings, and is a valuable and 
 practical aid for carpenters, builders, and architectural students. 
 — The Publishers Weekly. 
 
 By kindness of the publisher we have been enabled to examine 
 a portion of the advance sheets of this work, and so much of it 
 as we have seen is of a purely practical and useful kind, and such 
 as we have frequently had inquiries for. To the carpenter, joiner, 
 or architectural student who is struggling to obtain a knowledge 
 of architectural drawing and construction this work will prove of 
 great value. The book is entirely new and original, and the 
 '‘padding” and worn out matter that characterizes most of our 
 recent architectural publications are here conspicuous by their 
 absence. — The Builder and Woodworker. 
 
 We have been favored with a number of advance sheets of the 
 above work, which is in press at the time of this writing, and 
 find it, both in conception and execution, worthy of unqualified 
 praise. The material embraced in this volume, if we may judge 
 from careful examination of the sample sheets sent us pr mises to 
 be entirely new and original, and not the mere re-hash of a liter- 
 ary hack, which is too often the cnaracteristic of so-called “ prac- 
 tical ” treatises ; and if the promising evidences of the specimen 
 sheets in our hands are borne out by those that are forthcoming, 
 the work will be really a most useful book of instruction. In the 
 design and execution of the volume, it has been the author’s 
 study to suit the wants of architectural stud-nts, carpenters, 
 builders, and of all whose pursuits or inclinations might make the 
 acquisition of a thorough knowledge of architectural drawing and 
 construction necessary or desirable. — The Manufacturer and 
 Builder . 
 
 'I'he work is admirably described in its title. The author is a 
 practical architect, and has made a practical book which will be 
 of great assistance to carpenters, budders and students, contain- 
 ing just the informat on they most need, and are least likely to find 
 in books. The plates and wood-cuts are remarkable for their 
 thoroughness and clearness. A more thorough volume or a more 
 practical one for architects has never been made. — The United 
 States News Dealer . 
 
42 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER. 
 
 JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 MODERN ARCHITECTURAL 
 
 Designs and Details 
 
 (Miniature View.— Design i, Plate i, Modern Architeg 
 tural Designs and Details.) 
 —CONTAINING— 
 
 80 Finely Lithographed Plates; 
 
 shewing new and original designs of Dwellings of Moder- 
 ate Cost, in the Queen Anne, Eastlake, Elizabethan, 
 and other modernized styles , giving Perspective Views. Floor 
 and Framing Plans , Elevations . Sections , and a great variety 
 of miscellaneous EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR DETAILS 
 of Dwellings , Stores , Offices , etc. Also , a number of designs of 
 Low Priced Cottages, in the various popular styles , 
 adapted to the requirements of Seaside and Summer 
 Resorts, and 
 
 Suburban and Country Places, 
 
 Comprising drawings by prominent architects of New York , 
 Boston ) and other localities y as well as other designs prepared 
 expressly for this work. All Elevations , Plans , and Details 
 to Scale. 
 
 One large (11x14) quarto volume , handsomely bound in cloth . 
 PRICE, POST-PAID, $10. O'). 
 
 Circular of contents furnished on application. 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 43 
 
 JUST UUBIjISHEID. 
 
 INTERIORS AND 
 
 INTERIOR DETAILS. 
 
 MINIATURES OF DESIGNS SHOWN IN THIS WORK. 
 
 Fifty-two large quarto plates, comprising a large number of 
 original designs of Halls, Staircases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining, 
 Rooms, etc. Together with special designs for Low Cost, Medium 
 and Elaborate Wood Mantels, Sideboards, Furniture, Wood Ceil- 
 ings. Doors, Door and Window Trims, Wainscots, Bank, Office, 
 and Store Fittings, in Perspective, Elevation and Detail, making 
 a valuable series of Suggestions for Architects and Architectural 
 Designers. And a large collection of interior details suited to the 
 requirements of carpenters, builders and mechanics, reproduced 
 from the drawings of prominent architects of New York, Boston, 
 Chicago and other cities. With an Introduction, Description of 
 Plates, and Notes on Wood Finish by Wm. B. Tuthill, A. M., 
 Architect, author of “ Practical Lessons in Architectural Draw- 
 ing.” One large quarto vol., handsomely bound in cloth. 
 
 Price, post-paid, - - $7.50, 
 
 Fot description of plates see following pages. 
 
44 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 RECENTLY PUBLISHED. 
 
 “Artistic Homes.’ 
 
 — by — 
 
 A. W. FULLER, Architect. 
 
 Containing 44 Plates of Queen Anne and Colonial 
 Style Villas and Cottages, costing from $700 up- 
 wards. 
 
 One large (8^- x 12 inches') volume, handsomely 
 bound in Cloth. 
 
 Price, post-paid, S3. 50 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 4 
 
 JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 A, New and Important Work of especial 
 interest to Architects 9 Builders, 
 Painters and House Owners • 
 
 MODERN HOUSE PAINTING. 
 
 Containing twenty colored lithographic plates, exhibit- 
 ing the use of color in the Exterior and Interior 
 House Painting, and embracing examples of simple 
 and elaborate work in plain, graded, and parti- 
 colors. Also the treatment of old styles of houses, 
 together with full descriptive letter press, covering 
 the preparation, use and application of colors, with 
 special directions applicable to each example. The 
 whole work offering valuable hints and suggestions 
 on harmonious color treatment, suitable to every 
 variety of building. By E. K. Rossiter and 
 F. A. Wright, Architects. One oblong quarto 
 vol., handsomely bound in cloth, price, post 
 paid, - $5.00. 
 
46 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 A new system of Proportion, showing; the 
 relation between an order of Archi- 
 tecture and a Building 
 of any kind. 
 
 Rules for finding the Height of Foundations, Bases, 
 Water-Table, Windowsills, Doors, Windows, Balus- 
 trades, and Superimposed Stories ; Width of Doors, 
 Windows, Architraves, Pilasters and Posts ; Height 
 and Projection of Entablatures, Cornices, and all 
 Exterior Finish. Also Height of Bases, Window 
 Stools ; Height and Projection of Stucco-Cornices and 
 Interior Finish, with many valuable tables. 
 
 By A. J. BRYAN, Architect. 
 
 •Price, post-paid. 
 
 $ 1 . 50 . 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 47 
 
 A NEW AND IMPORTANT WORK. 
 
 Consisting of 44 Large Quarto Plates. 
 
 Containing ‘Original Designs of 
 Medium and Low Cost Cottages, Sea- 
 side and Country Houses. Also, a 
 School House, Club House, Pavilion, 
 and a Small Seaside Chapel. 
 
 Together with a form of Specification 
 for Cottages. 
 
 All in the latest prevailing styles, 
 from the drawings of a number of 
 prominent architects, thus securing a 
 great variety of plans and diversity of 
 treatment, and offering the largest op- 
 portunity for selection. 
 
 One Large Quarto Volume. 
 
 Price , post-paid, $ 5 . 00 . 
 
48 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 ■A^jdt- 11 IStiA, 1881. 
 
 WITHERS' 
 
 Church Architecture, 
 
 Reduced to $10. 
 
 This is a Standard -Work, and vhry valuable for all 
 
 ARCHITECTURAL LIBRARIES, 
 
 We have only 250 copies to sell at Ten Dollars, 
 which is one-half the original price. 
 
 IT IS ILLUSTRATED WITH 
 
 Plans , Elevations and Views of Twenty- 
 one Churches and Two School- Houses, Photo- 
 Lithographed from Original Drawings j also 
 full descriptive Letter-press , which includes 
 numerous Engravings on Wood , showing Con- 
 struction and Details. 
 
 Making in all the finest work on Church 
 Architecture published. 
 
 One large volume of fifty-one 9x14 plates, 
 
 substantially bound in extra cloth, sent by mail or 
 express, to any part of the United States, upon receipt 
 of reduced price, - $| 0.00 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 49 
 
 JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 A NEW REVISED AND ENLARGED EDITION OF 
 
 CAMERON’S 
 
 Plasterer’s Manual 
 
 By K. CAME1103T. 
 
 Containing accurate descriptions and 
 illustrations of tools and materials used in 
 Plastering. Description of the appearance 
 and action of every variety of Lime and 
 Cement ; Instructions for making all kinds 
 of Mortar ; Instructions for doing all kinds 
 of Plain and Ornamental Plastering ; Cis- 
 tern Building ; Form of Contract; Useful 
 Tables : many important Receipts, etc. 
 Cloth. i2mo. 
 
 PRICE, POST-PAID, 75 CEUTS, 
 
50 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 House Painting, Carriage Painting & Graining. 
 
 WMAT TO DO, AND MOW TO DO IT. 
 
 By JOHN W. MASURY. 
 
 One 8vo Volume, Cloth. Price, Post-Paid, $ 1 . 50 . 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Chapter I.— Colors and their uses. 
 
 II.— Light and Color 
 
 III. — Ornamenting with Colors. 
 
 IV. — Paints : Their Origin and Sources. 
 
 V— Mixing Paints and Colors. 
 
 VI.— Mixing Paints and Colors. (Continued.) 
 
 VII.— Paint as Affected by Atmospheric Agencies. 
 
 VIII.— Exterior House Painting. 
 
 IX.— New System of Interior House Painting. 
 
 X.— Whitewashing, or coloring Walls and Ceilings, 
 called Kalsomining. 
 
 XI.— Paris Green as a Pigment. 
 
 XII.— Graining as a Fine Art. 
 
 XIII— Painted Imitations of Colored Woods, Tech- 
 nically called Graining. 
 
 XIV.— Ground and Graining Colors. 
 
 XV — Tools required for Graining. 
 
 XVI.— Light-Oak Graining. 
 
 XVII.— Dark-Oak Graining. 
 
 XVIII.— Black-Walnut Graining. 
 
 XIX.— Ash Graining. 
 
 XX.— Chestnut Graining. 
 
 XXI.— New System of Graining on tTnpainted Pine 
 Wood Surfaces. 
 
 XXII.— Distemper Graining. 
 
 XXIII.— Bird’s-Eye Maple 
 
 XXIV.— Mahogany Graining. 
 
 XXV.— Rosewood Graining. 
 
 XXVI.— Satin wood Graining. 
 
 XXVII.— Black- walnut Graining in Distemper. 
 
 XXVIII.— Liglit-Oak Graining in Distemper. 
 
 XXIX .—V arnishing. 
 
 XXX.— General Remarks. 
 
 XXXI.— How to Paint a Carriage. 
 
 XXXII.— Preparation of the Surface. 
 
 XXXIII.— Carriage Varnishing. 
 
 XXXIV.— The New Method. 
 
 XXXV.— Painting and Varnishing. 
 
 XXXVI.— Evils and their Remedies. 
 
 XXXVII.— Cleaving of Varnish from the Color. 
 XXXVIII.— How to get the Best Results. 
 
 XXXIX.— Adulteration and Waste. 
 
 XL.— The Use of Ready Ground Colors. 
 
 . XLL— How to make the Best Job in Black. 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 51 
 
 A VALUABLE BOOK FOR ARCHITECTS A M BUILDERS. 
 
 SECOND EDITION . 
 
 In Cities, Villages & Rural Neighborhoods, 
 
 WITH CONSIDERATIONS OF VARIOUS CAUSES AF- 
 FECTING THE HEALTHFULNESS OF 
 DWELLINGS. 
 
 By JAMES C. BAYLES, 
 
 Editor of The Iron Age ” and “ 7^^ Metal Worker 
 
 Largs octavo of 360 pages, fully illustrated. Sub- 
 stantially bound in cloth , with beveled edges . 
 
 Chapter I.— Hygiene in its Practical Relations to 
 Health. II. — -Sewer Gas. III. — Waste and Soil 
 
 Pipes. IV. — Traps and Seals, and Ventilation of 
 Waste Pipes. V. — Water Closets. VI. — Service 
 
 Pipes and Water Distribution. VII.— Tanks and 
 Cisterns. VIII. — The Chemistry of Plumbing. 
 
 IX. — Elementary Hydraulics applicable to Plumbing 
 Work. X. — Sanitary Construction and Drainage of 
 Country Houses. XI. — Water Supply in Country 
 Districts. XII. — Suggestions concerning the Sani- 
 tary Care of Premises. XIII. — The Plumber and 
 his work. 
 
 Sent post-paid on receipt of price, $3.00. 
 
52 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER. 
 
 JUST ISSUED. 
 
 A collection of 350 Original Designs of Cabinet Work, Uphol- 
 tery and Decoration, under the title of 
 
 ^FASHIONABLE FURNITURE-^ 
 
 embracing 100 elegant designs by B. J. Talbert, Architect; a 
 series of Domestic Interiors by Henry Shaw, Architect, together 
 with numerous miscellaneous contributions by other designers 
 of note. 116 Lithographic Plates and 4 pp. 0/ Letter-press. 
 
 4 to. Price, in Portfolio, . . . . $ 8.00 
 
 ■ ^minim i ni&iiMt" 
 
 ill*, fi>< fell* 
 
 ji 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 5^ 
 
 STANDARD BOOKS 
 
 — OF — 
 
 Elevations and Plans. 
 
 BICKNELL’S COTTAGE AND VILLA ARCHITECTURE.— 
 Containing 66 Plates (Plates i-66 W. & B. Bldgs.), showing 
 Plans, Elevations, Views, Sections, and Details of low-priced, 
 medium, and first class Cottages, Villas, Farm-Houses, and 
 Country Seats. Also Specifications for Frame and Brick Dwell- 
 ings, etc., etc. Drawings to Scale. Price $6.00 
 
 BICKNELL’S VILLAGE BUILDER, WITH SUPPLEMENT. 
 — Shows Elevations and Plans for Cottages, Villas, Suburban 
 Residences, Farm Houses, Stables and Carriage Houses, Store 
 Fronts, School Houses, Churches, Court Houses, and a Modern 
 Jail. Also, Exterior and Interior Details for Public and 
 Private Buildings, with approved form of Contract and Specifi- 
 cations, containing Seventy-seven Plates, Drawn to Scale, giv- 
 ing the Style and Cost of Building in different sections of the 
 Country, being an Original Work, Comprising the Designs of 
 20 Architects Representing the New England, Middle, Western, 
 and South-Western States. One large quarto volume. Price, 
 
 with Supplement $10.00 
 
 SUPPLEMENT TO BICKNELL’S VILLAGE BUILDER.— 
 Containing Twenty Plates, showing Eighteen Modern and 
 Practical Designs for Country and Suburban Residences of 
 Moderate Cost, with Elevations, Plans, Sections, and a variety 
 of Details, all Drawn to Scale. Also, a full set of Specifications 
 with approved Form of Contract, and Estimates of Cost. One 
 superb quarto volume. Price $4.00 
 
 Description of contents of each Plate of the above Books 
 furnished on application. 
 
54 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER 
 
 Standard B oob of Elevatio ns & Plans, 
 
 BICKNELL’S STREET, STORE, AND BANK FRONTS.—' 
 Containing twenty-two Plates (Plates 67-89 W. & B. Bldgs.), 
 showing thirty-four designs of Street Fronts for Dwellings, 
 Stores and Banks, including several Plates of Details. Draw- 
 ings to scale. Price $ 4.00 
 
 BICKNELL’S PUBLIC BUILDINGS.— Containing twenty-one 
 Plates (Plates 90-108 and 133-135 Wooden and Brick Buildings), 
 showing Libraries, Town Hall, Masonic Hall, Hotels, Opera 
 House, Court House and Railway Stations, including a variety 
 of details of same, Descriptive Letter-press, etc. Drawings to 
 
 scale. Price $ 3.50 
 
 BICKNELL’S STABLES, OUT-BUILDINGS, FENCES AND 
 MISCELLANEOUS DETAILS. — Containing twenty-four 
 Plates (136 to 160 W. and B. Buildings), showing sixteen Plans, 
 Elevations and Views of Stables, several Out-Buildings and 
 Fences, and over one hundred Miscellaneous Details. Also, 
 Summer Houses, Seaside Cottages, Boat Houses, Street View 
 of Twelve Dwellings, etc. Elevations and Plans to scale. 
 
 Price, post-paid $ 2*50 
 
 WQOLLETT’S VILLAS AND COTTAGES.— One volume, ob- 
 long 8vo of forty 8x12 Plates. Cloth. Price $ 3.00 
 
 WOOLLETT’S OLD HOMES MADE NEW.— One oblong vol- 
 ume, 7x11. Illustrated. Price $ 1.50 
 
 SPECIMEN BOOK OF ONE HUNDRED ARCHITECTUR- 
 
 AL DESIGNS. — This work shows a great variety of Plans, 
 Elevations, Views and Details from various publications. 
 Several of the designs shown have been used in Illustrated 
 Catalogues, but sufficient new matter is added to make it a very 
 desirable book of selection for builders and all who contemplate 
 building. One 8vo volume, 80 pages, handsomely bound in 
 cloth. Price $ 1.00 
 
 Description 0/ contents of each Plate of above works, except 
 Specimen Book* furnished on application. 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 55 
 
 STANDARD BOOKS ON 
 
 ArchitectnralDetails. 
 
 BICKNELL’S DETAIL, COTTAGE AND CON- 
 STRUCTIVE ARCHITECTURE .—Containing 
 seventy-five large Lithographic Plates, pub- 
 lished under the direction of A. J. Bicknell, 
 showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices, 
 Brackets, Windows and Window Caps, Doors, 
 Piazzas, Porches, Bay and Dormer Windows, 
 Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balcon- 
 ies, Canopies, Scrolls, Gable and Sawed Orna- 
 ments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves, 
 Mantles, Plaster Finish, etc., including forty-five 
 Perspectives, Elevations, and Plans of Modern 
 Designs for Cottages, with Details, and eighteen 
 Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Seaside 
 Cottages and Country Houses, together with 
 fourteen Designs for Street and Store Fronts, 
 with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also 
 Framing for Dwellings, Barns, Exhibition Build- 
 ings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., etc., making in all a 
 Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpen- 
 ters and all who contemplate Building or Re- 
 modeling Wood, Stone or Brick Buildings. One 
 large 4to volume, sent free by mail or express 
 on receipt of price. - $10.00. 
 
 CUMMINGS’ ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS.— 
 By M. F. Cummings, M. A. Architect, Associate 
 Author of “Architecture, by Cummings and 
 Miller.” Containing 387 Designs and 967 Illus- 
 trations of the Various Parts needed in the 
 Construction of Buildings, Public and Private, 
 both for the City and Country ; also, Plans and 
 Elevations of Houses, Stores, Cottages, and 
 other Buildings. One large 4to volume, fifty-six 
 Plates. Reduced from $ 10.00 to - $o.oo 
 
56 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER 
 
 VALUABLE BOOKS 
 
 — ON — 
 
 CARPENTRY. 
 
 THE CARPENTER’S AND BUILDER’S GUIDE. — Being a 
 Hand-Book for Workmen ; also a Manual of Reference for Con- 
 tractors, Builders, etc. By P. W. Plummer. Third Edition. 
 
 Price $1.00 
 
 CARPENTERS’ AND BUILDERS’ ASSISTANT, AND 
 WOOD-WORKERS’ GUIDE.— By L. D. Gould, Architect 
 and Practical Builder. Containing twenty-three plates, fully 
 described. Also, Tables of the Strength of Materials, Length 
 of Braces where the Run is given, and Length of Run where 
 the Brace is given, Technical Terms used by Carpenters, etc., 
 
 etc. 8vo volume, bound in cloth. Price. . . $2.50 
 
 This work is intended to combine all the knowledge the work- 
 man requires to construct any design in carpentry by an easy 
 system of lines. 
 
 BELL'S CARPENTRY FOR CARPENTERS, BUILDERS 
 AND MECHANICS. — Carpentry made easy. One of the best 
 
 books on Framing. Price $5.00 
 
 HATFIELD. R. G.— THE AMERICAN HOUSE-CARPEN- 
 TER. — A Treatise on the Art of Building and Strength of 
 Materials. Revised and improved edition, with about 150 
 
 pages, and numerous additional plates. 1 vol. 8vo $5.00 
 
 THE PRACTICAL CARPENTER AND JOINER.— Showing 
 practical methods for obtaining every conceivable cut requisite 
 in Constructive Carpentry, Joinery and Stair-Building, by 
 Robert Riddell. Containing 24 plates on carpentry, and 8 
 plates on Hand-Railing. One folio vol. 
 
 Price reduced from $10 to $7.50 
 
 TREDGOLD. The Elementary principles of Carpentry. By 
 Thomas Tredgold, C.E. 5th edition, revised and enlarged. 4*0, 
 
 cloth. London, 1870. Price $10.00 
 
 All kept in Stock, and Post-paid on receipt of Price. 
 
G ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 57 
 
 J" "u.st Pulolislieci. 
 
 A Re-issue of 
 
 JML O KTCKTOKT^S 
 
 NATIONAL CARPENTER & JOINER. 
 
 A Complete Work on Constructive Carpentry, showing the 
 Simplest Methods of finding all Joints and Geometrical Forms, 
 including Splayed Work, Groined Ceilings, Framing, Roofing, 
 Domes, Niches, Raking, and Level Mouldings, etc. 
 
 By JAMES II. MONCKTON. 
 
 Containing 45 plates, with full descriptive letter-press. 
 
 One Quarto Vol. Cloth . JPrice f post-paid, $5.00, 
 
 THE REVISED AND ENLARGED EDITION OF 
 
 Carnantars’ k Bnilflers’ Assistant, 
 
 AND WOOD-WORKERS’ GUIDE , 
 
 By L. D. GOULD, Architect and Practical Builder. 
 
 Hcducocl from $53 to $2.30 
 
 This Work Contains 
 
 Twenty-seven Plates, fully described. 
 
 Also, Tables of the Strength of Materials, Length of Braces 
 where the Run is given, and Length of Run where the Brace is 
 given. Technical Terms used by Carpenters, etc., etc. 
 
 One 8vo Vol., Clothe Price Post-paid, $2.50. 
 
 Full Description of Contents on Application. 
 
58 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 PRACTICAL BOOKS 
 
 —ON— 
 
 Stair 
 
 Buildin 
 
 THE AMERICAN STAIR-BUILDERS’ GUIDE.— By L. D. 
 Gould. Ilustrated by 32 Original Plates, with Supplement of 
 5 additional Plates showing a variety of Newels, Balusters and 
 Rails, fully described and drawn to scale. One 8vo volume. 
 Price. .. .$3.00. 
 
 MONCKTON’S NATIONAL STAIR BUILDER.— A Com- 
 plete Work on Stair-Bulding and Hand-Railing. Fully Ex- 
 plained and Illustrated by Large Scale Diagrams, in two colors, 
 with Designs for Stair-cases, Newels, Balusters, and Hand- 
 Rails. Royal quarto. Price $5.00. 
 
 RIDDELL.— THE NEW ELEMENTS OF HAND RAILING. 
 — Revised Edition, containing Forty-one Plates, Thirteen of 
 which are now for the first time presented, together with ac- 
 companying letter-press description. The whole giving a 
 complete elucidation of the Art of Stair-Building, by Robert 
 Riddell, author of “ The Practical Carpenter and Joiner,” etc. 
 One volume, folio. Price ,..$7.00. 
 
 NEW WORK BY ROBERT RIDDELL.— Entitled, Lessons on 
 Hand-Railing for Learners . Illustrated by 32 Plates. Edition 
 includes Supplement of several New Plates. Price complete, 
 cloth .Ss.oo. 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 59 
 
 INDISPENSABLE TO 
 
 — ALL — 
 
 Architects, Builders, Carpenters, etc, 
 
 THE ARCHITECT’S AND BUILDER’S POCKET COM- 
 PANION AND PRICE BOOK.— Consisting of a Short but 
 Comprehensive Epitome of Decimals, Duodecimals, Geo metry 
 and Mensuration ; with Tables of U. S. Measures ; Sizes, 
 Weights, Strengths, etc., of Iron, Wood, Stone, and Various 
 other Materials. Quantities of Materials in Given Sizes and 
 Dimensions of Wood, Brick and Stone ; and a Full and Com- 
 plete Bill of Prices for Carpenters’ Work. Also, Rules for 
 Computing and Valuing Brick and Brick Work, Stone Work' 
 Painting, Plastering, etc. By Frank W. Vogdes, Architect. 
 By mail, free of postage. In one volume, full bound in pocket 
 book form. Price $2.00. Bound in Muslin $1.50 
 
 LAKEY’S VILLAGE AND COUNRY HOUSES.-Cheap 
 Homes in Wood, Brick and Stone, for all classes, selected from 
 designs published in t>he American Builder containing 84 
 plates of designs of low and medium priced houses, drawn 
 to scale. One quarto volume, cloth. Sent by mail or express, 
 prepaid on receipt of price. Price reduced from $6.00 
 
 to $5.00 
 
 PALLISER’S AMERICAN COTTAGE HOMES.— Illustrated 
 by 40 9x12 Plates, containing 50 Designs of Modern Low-Priced 
 Cottages and Workingmen’s Homes, suitable for erection in 
 City, suburbs, and country in the North, South and West. 
 
 Scale indicated on each plate. Price $ 5 .OO 
 
 PALLISER’S MODEL HOMES.— One 8vo Volume, cloth. 
 28 full page 6x9 plates. Price $ 1 .OO 
 
60 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER 
 
 STANDARD BOOKS 
 
 — ON — 
 
 Church Architecture. 
 
 ♦WITHERS’ CHURCH ARCHITECTURE.— By Frederick 
 Clark Withers. Illustrated with Plans, Elevations and Views 
 of twenty-one Churches and two School Houses, Photo-Litho- 
 graphed from original drawings ; also, full descriptive Letter- 
 press, which includes numerous Engravings on Wood, showing 
 Construction and Details. One large volume of fifty-one 9x1 
 Plates, substantially bound in extra cloth, sent by express to 
 any part of the United States on receipt of the price. $10 00 
 ♦BICKNELL’S SCHOOL HOUSE AND CHURCH ARCHI- 
 TECTURE. — Containing twenty-three Plates (109-132 W. and 
 B. Buildings), showing twenty-six Plans and Elevations of Dis- 
 trict, Village and City School Houses ; twenty-five Plans, Ele- 
 vations, Views and Sections of medium and low-priced Churches, 
 including a variety of Miscellaneous Church Details, etc. De- 
 signs to scale. Price, post-paid $ 3 .00 
 
 COMMON SENSE IN CHURCH BUILDING.— By E. C. 
 Gardner, author of u Homes, and How to Make Them,” “ Il- 
 lustrated Homes,” and “ Home Interiors.” Illustrated by 
 seven Original Plates. One i2mo volume, handsomely bound 
 
 in cloth. Sent post-paid on receipt of price $ 1 .00 
 
 RURAL CHURCH ARCHITECTURE.— Twenty Designs for 
 Churches, of different Styles and Cost. Elevations, splendidly 
 Chromo-Lithographed in colors. By the following prominent 
 Architects : Upjohn, Renwick, Wheeler, Wells, Austin, Stone, 
 Cleveland, Backus, Reeve and Eveleth. The only work pub- 
 lished on low-priced Churches. Price $ 4.00 
 
 * Description 0/ contents of each Plate furnished on application. 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 61 
 
 STANDARD BOOKS. 
 
 WOODWARD’S NATIONAL ARCHITECT.— YoL i. New 
 edition. Complete in itself, 1,000 Designs, Plans, and Details 
 for Country, Suburban, and Village Honses, with Perspective 
 Views, front and side elevations, sections, full detail drawings, 
 
 specifications, and estimates. Price $ 7 .50 
 
 WOODWARD’S NATIONAL ARCHITECT. Volume 2, 
 
 Price $ 7.50 
 
 WOODWARD’S COTTAGES AND FARM-HOUSES.— 188 
 Designs and Plans of low priced Cottages, Farm Houses, and 
 
 Out-Buildings. Price $ 1 .00 
 
 WOODWARD’S SUBURBAN AND COUNTRY HOUSES,— 
 70 Designs and Plans and numerous examples of the French 
 
 Roof. Price $ 1.00 
 
 WOODWARD’S COUNTRY HOMES. — 150 Designs and Plans, 
 with Description of the manner of Constructing Balloon 
 
 Frames. Price $ 1.00 
 
 JACQUES’ MANUAL OF THE HOUSE.— How to Build 
 Dwellings, Barns, Stables, and Out-Buildings of all kinds. 126 
 
 Designs and Plans. Price $ 1*00 
 
 EVELETH’S SCHOOL-HOUSE ARCHITECTURE.— Designs 
 for School-Houses, with Perspectives, Elevations, Plans, Sec- 
 tions, Details and Specifications, all drawn to working scale, 
 with methods of Heating and Ventilation. Large quarto. 
 
 Price $ 4.00 
 
 HARNEY’S BARNS, OUTBUILDINGS & FENCES.— Designs 
 and Plans of Stables, Farm Barns, Outbuildings, Gates, Gate- 
 ways, Fences, Stable Fittings and Furniture, fully described, 
 with nearly 200 Illustration^. Royal quarto extra. Price. 
 
 REED’S HOUSE PLANS FOR EVERY BODY.— Containing 
 40 low-priced Designs. A valuable little work which meets the 
 wants of persons of moderate means. The designs are mainly 
 for plain and inexpensive dwellings of a character suited to 
 rural districts, costing $250 and upwards. Nearly all of these 
 plans have been practically tested. They provided for heating, 
 ventilation, etc., and give a large share of what are called 
 modern improvements. One feature of the work is of special 
 value, giving an Estimate of the Quantity of every article 
 used in construction and the Cost of each material at the time 
 the building^ was erected or the design made. ? Even if prices 
 vary from time to time, one can, from these data, ascertaim 
 within a few dollars, the probable cost of constructing any one 
 of the buildings here presented. 175 Illustrations, i2mo. 
 Price, post-paid $ 1.50 
 
62 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER 
 
 BOOKS SUITED TO 
 
 MASONS & BUILDERS. 
 
 Notes on Jiuilding Construction. 
 
 IN 3 ILLUSTRATED VOLS., PRICE, $13,00. 
 VOL,. I 
 
 Treats on Walling and Arches ; Brickwork ; Masonry ; Carpentry; 
 Floors ; Partitions ; Timber Roofs ; Iron Roofs ; Slating ; Plumbers’ 
 Work ; Cast-Iron Girders, etc.; Joinery. Price, post-paid, $3.50* 
 
 VOL. II 
 
 f*eats on Brickwork and Masonry; Timber Roofs : Roof Coverings ; 
 Built-up Beams ; Curved Ribs, Timber and Iron Girders ; Centres ; 
 Joinery; Stairs; Riveting; Fire-Proof Floors; Iron Roofs; Plas- 
 terers’ Work ; Painting, Paper-T&nging and Glazing. Price, post- 
 paid $3.50. 
 
 VOL. IIS 
 
 Treats on Materials. 1st. Sione ; 2d. Bricks, Tiles, Terra Cotta; 
 etc.; 3d. Limes, Cements, Mortar, Concrete, Plaster and Asphalts; 
 4th. Metals* 5th. Timber* 6th. Paints and Varnishes* 7th. Glass; 
 8th. Paper-Hanging; 9th. Miscellaneous. Price, post-paid, $6.00* 
 
 These three volumes are sold singly or in sets, and are regarded 
 the best authority on the general sunjects named. They are the 
 latest English works giving such a complete and thorough treatise, 
 
 PLASTERER’S MANUAL, 
 
 Containing accurate descriptions and illustrations of tools and 
 materials used in Plastering. 
 
 By K.. CAMEKON. 
 
 Thrice, Cloth. 12mo, 75 Cento. 
 
 Foundations and Foundation Walls, 
 
 PILE DRIVING, BUILDING STONES AND BRICKS. 
 
 Illustrations of Foundation, Pier and Wall Constructions, Mortars, 
 Limes, Cements, Concretes, Stuccos, etc. 60 illustrations. 
 
 By &E0. T. POWELL, Architect and Civil Engineer, If, Y, 
 
 To which Is added a treatise on Foundations, with practical illus- 
 trations of the method of isolated piers as folloY*%d in Chicago. 
 
 By Frederick Baumann, Architect. 
 
 One Vol., 8vo,, Cloth, - Price, $1.50, ^ 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 63 
 
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 Draughtsme n & Architectu ral Students 
 
 Ames’ Alphabets#— Adapted to the use of Architects, En- 
 gravers, Engineers, Artists, Sign Painters, Draughtsmen, etc. 
 This work has been prepared under our supervision, and with 
 especial reference to the wants of Architects, Sign Painters, 
 and Draughtsmen. Architects will find examples of the most 
 common words in use on their drawings, so that if desired 
 they may be transferred directly to their drawings, “ with in- 
 structions in regard to tracing and transferring, and the prep- 
 aration of India Ink.” This will be especially valuable to 
 Architectural Students and Amateurs. Sign Painters will find 
 fancy and shaded letters especially adapted to their wants, 
 while every alphabet in the book will be found suggestive. 
 
 One Oblong volume, 33.7 x n well filled Plates, handsomely bound 
 in cloth. Price, post-paid, $ 1 .50 
 
 The Stepping Stone to Architecture.— By Thomas 
 Mitchell. Nearly 100 engravings. Price* .60 
 
 Mini fie (Wm.) Mechanical Drawing-.-A Text-Book 
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 in which the Definitions and Rules of Geometry are familiarly 
 explained ; the Practical Problems are arranged from the 
 most simple to the more complex, and in their description, 
 technicalities are avoided as much as possible. With Illustrations 
 for Drawing Plans. Sections and Elevations of Buildings and 
 Machinery; an Introduction to Isometrical Drawing, and an 
 Essay on Linear Perspective and Shadows. Illustrated by over 
 200 Diagrams, engraved on steel. With an Appendix on the 
 Theory and Application of Colors. x vol. 8vo, cloth. 9th 
 edition. 1877. 4 « 00 . 
 
64 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 Three of the Best Self-Instructing Drawing Books on 
 
 PERSPECTIVE, AND 
 
 The Illustrated Architectural Engineering & 
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 with upwards of 300 illustrations. By Robert 
 Scott Burn. This is one of the best works 
 published on Architectural Drawing, and will aid 
 any persevering person to acquire a good knowledge 
 of the subject. No. 1. Price, post-paid $1.00 
 The Illustrated Drawing Book, for Schools, 
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 The Illustrated Book of Ornamental Drawing 
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 instructions in Decorative Drawing ; Illustrated 
 Historical notices of different styles of Architecture, 
 and a variety of Architectural Plans and Details 
 for practice. No. 3. Price, post-paid. . . . $1.00 
 
6 ASTOK PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 63 
 
 TECHNICAL MANUALS 
 
 Ter Joiners, Carpenters , Builders , Cabinet-Makers , 
 Stone Masons and Others. 
 
 Davidson’s Linear Drawing and Practical 
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 Building Construction, the Elements of, and Archi- 
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 Drawing for Carpenters and Joiners. Contain- 
 taining a description of the Construction of each Subject, and 
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 With Thirty-six double-page Illustrations. Extra fcap, 8 vo. 
 
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 Drawing for Stone Masons. With Elementary Les- 
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 of Masonry. Containing Six double and Twenty-five single 
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 Gothic Stonework. Containing the History and Princi- 
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 pages Plates. Cloth $1.50 
 
 Drawing for Bricklayers. With the Elements of 
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 tectural Drawing. Cloth $1.50 
 
 Drawing for Cabinet-Makers. With Lessons in 
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 Water-Colored Drawing, containing Twenty-nine Plates, 
 
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 Systematic Drawing and Shading, giving Practical 
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 All Books mailed Postpaid, on Receipt of Price. 
 
66 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 JUST ISSUED. 
 
 — BY — 
 
 Robert Riddell. 
 
 The Wonders of the Slide Mule f and i s Direct Ap- 
 plication for the Instant Soliition of any 
 Mroblem in Constructive Carpentry . 
 
 The Circumference of Circles, Length of Rafters, Braces, 
 Measurement of Cubes, &c., &c. 
 
 It also gives with equal rapidity, correct answers to all ques- 
 tions relative to practical mensuration without the aid of either 
 drawings, pencil, paper or effort of mind. 
 
 This marvel of ingenuity and beautifully formed instrument, 
 is ifc one section, its edge beveled and divided into twelfths. 
 The slide is German Silver, and it has astonishing powers of 
 making accurate calculations as to cost of materials, work, time, 
 or quantity. This valuable information is easily acquired by the 
 mechanic whose opportunities may have been neglected if am- 
 bitious to learn, and willing to pay out for it about what he may 
 ear* in one day. 
 
 How to use the instrument is clearly explained in one volume, 
 illustrated by 32 engraved plates 9x6, and 44 pages of letter press. 
 
 Price of Book and Instrument, $3.00. 
 
G ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 67 
 
 BY FRED. T. HODGSON, 
 
 Editor of the Builder and Wood-Worker . 
 
 Being a description of the Carpenter’s Framing Square, 
 giving simple and easy methods of obtaining the Lengths 
 and Bevels of all kinds of Rafters, Hips, Groins, Braces, 
 Brackets, PurKns, Collar-Beams, and Jack-Rafters. 
 Also, its application in obtaining the bevels and cuts for 
 Hoppers, Spring Mouldings, Octagons, Stairs, and Di- 
 minished Stiles. 
 
 Illustrated by over Fifty Large and Clear Woodcuts . 
 
 12mo Vol., Cloth, Price, Post-paid, $ 1.00. 
 
WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 VALUABLE 
 
 ME6HANIGAL BOOKS. 
 
 MECHANICS’ GEOMETRY.— Plainly teaching the 
 Carpenter, Mason, Metal-plate Worker, in fact 
 the Artisan in any and every branch of industry 
 whatever, the constructive principles of his calling. 
 Illustrated by accurate explanatory card board 
 Models and Diagrams by Robt. Riddell. One 
 large Quart j volume, Cloth. Price $5.00 
 
 THE ARTISAN. — Illustrated by forty plates of Geo- 
 metric Drawings, showing the most practical 
 methods that may be applied to works of Building 
 and other constructions. The whole is intended 
 to advance the learner, by teaching him in a plain 
 and simple manner the utility of Lines, and their 
 application in producing results which are indis- 
 pensable in all Works of Art. By Robt. Rid- 
 dell. One large Quarto volume, Cloth. 
 
 Price $5.00 
 
6 A STO P PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 69 
 
 Winsor & Newton's Bocks on Art, 
 
 EACH, 50 CENTS. 
 
 1. The Art of Sketching from Nature by Theo. L. Rowbotham. 
 
 2. Hints of Sketching in Water Colors from Nature, by Thomas 
 
 Hatton. 
 
 3. The Art of Landscape Painting in Water Colors, by Th. Row- 
 
 botham. 
 
 4. A System of Water Color Painting, by A. Penley. 
 
 5. The Art of Marine Painting in Water Colors, by J. W. Car- 
 
 michel. 
 
 6. The Art of Portrait Painting in Water Colors, by M. Merri- 
 
 field. 
 
 7. The Art of Miniature Painting, by Ch. W. Day. 
 
 8. The Art of Flower Painting, by M. Duffield. 
 
 9. The Elements of Perspective, by A. Penley. 
 
 10. The Art of Figure Drawing, by C. H. Weigall. 
 
 11. An Artistic Treatise on the human figure, by H. Warren. K. L. 
 
 12. Artistic Anatomy of the human figure, by H. Warren. K. L. 
 
 13. The Artistic Anatomy of the Horse, by B. W. Hawkins. 
 
 14. The Artistic Anatomy of Cattle and Sheep, by B. W. Hawkins. 
 
 15. * The Art of Painting and Drawing in colored crayons, by H. 
 
 Murray. 
 
 16. The Principles of Coloring in Painting, by Charles Martel. 
 
 17. The Principles of Form in Ornamental Art, by Charles Martel. 
 
 18. The Art of Mural Decoration, by T. G. Goodwin. 
 
 19. A Manual of Illumination, by J. J. Laing. 
 
 20. Companion to Manual of Illumination, by J. J. Laing. 
 
 21. Transparency Painting on Linen, by W. Williams. 
 
 22. The Art of Transparent Painting on Glass, by Ed. Groom. 
 
 23. The Art of Wood Engraving, by Th. Gilks. 
 
 24. Drawing Models and their uses, by J. D. Harding. 
 
 25. The Art of Botanical Drawing, by F. W. Burbidge. 
 
70 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER 
 
 GEORGE ROWNEY & CO’S 
 
 BOOKS OH ART. 
 
 Paper Covers— Each, 50c . 
 
 Sketching from Nature.— Part I. By N. E. Green. 
 
 Illustrated by the Author. 
 
 Sketching from Nature,- Part II. By N. E. Green. 
 Illustrated by the Author. 
 
 sketching from Nature. — Part III. By N. E. Green. 
 Illustrated by the Author. 
 
 Figure Painting in Water Colors.— By Sidney T. 
 Whiteford. 
 
 Sketching from Nature in Water Colors.— By 
 
 L. C. Miles. With numerous Illustrations by the Author. 
 Principles of Perspective. — By Henry Lewis. 
 Water Color Painting. — By R. P. Noble. With an 
 Illustration in Colors. 
 
 Oil Pain ting.— Part I. By J. S. Templeton. 
 
 Oil Painting. — Part II. Landscape from Nature. By A. 
 Clint. 
 
 Pictorial Art. -By H. O’Neil. 
 
 Pictorial Perspective. — By B. R. Green, With Illus- 
 trations. 
 
 Figure lira Wing. — By G. E. Hicks. With Illustrations. 
 
 Flower Painting in Water Colors —By G. Rosen- 
 berg. With Illustrations. 
 
 miniature Painting and Coloring Photo- 
 graphs. — By J. S. Iempleton. 
 
 Sketching Trees lrom Nature in Water Colors. 
 
 —By Thomas Hatton. 
 
 materials used in Painting.— With Remarks on Var- 
 nishing and Cleansing Pictures. By Charles Martel. 
 inimal Drawing.-By C. H. Wiegall. With numer- 
 ous Illustrations. 
 
 illuminating ar*d missal Painting.— By W. and 
 
 G. Audslf.y. With Illustrations in Colors. 
 
 Light and Shade Drawing.— By Mrs. Merrifeld. 
 With Illustrations. 
 
 Pencil ond C halk Drawing.— By G. Haeley. Vith 
 Illustrations. 
 
 Painting on Glass.— By H. Bielfeld. 
 
6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 71 
 
 Oust FutDlisl^ecI, 
 
 PALLISER’S 
 
 PRINTED SPECIFICATIONS 
 
 FOR FRAME AND BRICK BUILDINGS. 
 
 ADAPTED TO USE OF 
 
 ARCHITECTS, CONTRACTORS, &o. 
 
 Suitable for every description of building except 
 Churches. The Divisions of Labor and Materials recog- 
 nized are as follows: 
 
 Masonry (including brickwork), Carpentry 9 
 Painting , Slating , Tinning 9 Plumb- 
 ing and Steam Heating, 
 
 Each department is provided with sufficient blank spaces 
 for the description of exceptional features of work. The 
 whole specification — legal cap size — is neatly bound in 
 paper cover, provided with a flap for rolling, and furnished 
 with a tape for tying. 
 
 Ample spaces are provided for the architect's imprint, 
 which may be inserted in writing or may be printed in. 
 Two blank contracts are included in each. 
 
 Valuable to all architects. Builders should have these 
 Specifi ations and become acquainted with their contents; 
 also those contemplating building should procure a set 
 and study them. 
 
 PRICES : 
 
 SINGLE COPIES, POST-PAID, including 2 forms 
 
 of Contraot, - - - - $0 50 
 
 PER DOZEN COPIES, POST-PAID, - - 4 00 
 
 Supplied singly or by the dozen, by 
 
2 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 Just IPutolisliocI. 
 
 A Third Edition , revised and enlarged, 
 
 HALLETTS 
 
 S pecification s 
 
 — FOR — 
 
 IE HOUSES. 
 
 Among the additions will be found a new 
 
 GLOSSARY OF TERMS, 
 
 the schedule of Architects’ Fees, a Revised form of Con- 
 tract, &c. 
 
 This is a complete and practical work. It has, since 
 the first edition, been before the public for nearly ten 
 years, and we believe it now to be recognized as the 
 general standard work. 
 
 It contains in concise form, everything necessary to go 
 into a complete and perfect dwelling, making it valuable 
 for all who write specifications; also, fur students, ama- 
 teurs, and all those who contemplate building. 
 
 ONE SMALL QUARTO VOLUME, BOUND IN PAPER COVER, 
 
 Price Reduced from $1.75 to $1.00. 
 
 Substantially bound in Cloth, price, $1.50. 
 
73 
 
 X 
 
 6 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 NEW AND REVISED EDITION. 
 
 -HBROWN’SK 
 
 FOR CARPENTERS, BUILDERS AND LUMBER MEN. 
 
 By a Practical Mechanic. 
 
 This work contains 217 bills of timber for different 
 sizes of buildings, consisting of balloon, half balloon and 
 full frames for houses, barns, etc. All barn frames are 
 given in full bills of timber with girths boarded and bat- 
 tened, or studded and clapboarded. For all the above 
 estimates it gives not only the quantity of timber for the 
 frame, but the number of pieces, and size of each and 
 every sill, beam, plate, stud, post, floor joist, girt, raf- 
 ter, etc., with the number of feet of sheathing boards, 
 floor boards, clapboards and shingles required for each 
 building ; and all thoroughly revised and tested as to 
 accuracy. 
 
 A thorough explanation of the mason work, giving 
 proportions of sand to lime, cement to gravel, for con- 
 crete floors, lime and cerfrent for brick, etc., to make 
 good work. 
 
 Table of studding, joist and square timber; rafter 
 table; simple method of obtaining the length and bevels 
 of hip rafters; a short method of obtaining the sides of 
 an octagon or bay window; pitch of roof, and many 
 valuable tables; measurement of lumber; special direc- 
 tions for measurement of wood and bark. 
 
 One large 8 vo. vol ., cloth , 150 pages , sent post-paid to any 
 address on receipt of $1.50. 
 
74 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 GREAT REDUCTION AND A GREAT 
 BARGAIN 
 
 FOR AN AUTHOR’S PUBLICATION, ENTITLED 
 
 Hussey’s Home Building 
 
 Reduced in Price from $5.00 TO $2,50 TO CLOSE 
 
 OUT THE NUMBER WE HAVE NOW SECURED FROM 
 
 the Assignees. 
 
 (Miniature View of Design Plate 31, 1st and 2D Floor 
 Plans to Scale, and all other Plans drawn to 
 Scale, and size of Rooms given in Figures ) 
 
 This work contains 42 Plates of Designs and Plans of dwellings 
 of low and medium cost with short Descriptive Specifications, 
 including 2 Designs for small Barns, #Design for Carriage-House, 1 
 Design for small Bank Building, 1 Design for small Chapel, and 1 
 Design for a Church, nearly 400 pages in all, including letter-press. 
 
 On May 1st, 1870, we secured about 900 copies of this work and 
 reduced the price from $5.00 to $3.00, we have now bought 200 addi- 
 tional copies, and shall offer them till sold at the very Tow price of 
 Two Dollars and Fifty Cents per copy and will forward them 
 post-paid to any address. _ ^ * 
 
 This is a valuable book for builders and those contemplating 
 bui'ding. All the copies are substantially and handsomely bound, 
 making it a work suitable for any library as well as a work of prac- 
 tical value. A more complete description may be found in our 
 larger 32 page catalogue, which will be mailed free on application. 
 
6 ASTOR PLx^CE, NEW YORK. 
 
 JUST ISSUED. 
 
 DETAIL ORNAMENT. 
 
 A collection of Examples and Studies for the use of 
 Designers, embracing from five to six hundred different 
 items of Design, carefully prepared and drawn with 
 a view to practical availability in the present style of 
 work. A feature of this collection is an abundance of 
 useful Borders and Edgings. 
 
 
 mt 
 
 tifi 
 
 | 
 
 
 The accompanying Specimen has been reduced from 
 the pages of the work, and fairly represents the general 
 character of its contents. 
 
 24 folio tinted Plates (uniform with ‘ ‘ Modern Surface 
 Ornament ”). 
 
 > PRICE, in Portfolio, $6.00. 
 
 Sent by mail , prepaid^ on receipt 0/ price . 
 
76 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 Album of Modern Furniture. 
 
 55 Plates. Price, $7.00. 
 
 45 Plates. Price, $6.00. 
 
 The two above combined under the title of 
 
 THE ART WORKER. 
 
 Price, $12.00. 
 
 Modern Surface Ornament. 
 
 24 Plates. Price, $6.00. 
 
 Four excellent Books for the Designer and Manu- 
 facturer of Furniture. Illustrated Circular on applied 
 tion. 
 
 All American and Foreign Works on Architecture, 
 Decoration and Ornament supplied or imported to order. 
 
C ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 77 
 
 Berm Silrer Drams Mnnis 
 
 contains rfhia iirrelf^/inj'sbeff German SHver Insmimems. a? 
 follows : One efinclf iDiVKlei^With pen, pencil needle point and lengthening hart One pai* 
 Bi inch Hait Spring Dividers ? one pair of inch Plain' Diyiders ; one pain Proportional 
 J)ividcr$r one pair 3$ inchJDividers with pen» pencil and needle pointy j one pair 3$ inch' 
 
 C * iJlmders; one Spring jBow Pen; two ^Drawing Peas and Pencil CaSe^ fill in morocco 
 
 Pricelist quality, $20.00 2d Qualify, $F5.QO 
 
 2Vo. CohiaiiS SJ'ineti 
 
 fioedlc point DuocLflS; ’wiili pen ai)(L ' 
 pencil point. 
 
 Price, $ I .26* jVo. 12 !). — Contains foUT'fTtTelj’ finTs'hecl th* 
 
 ftruments, as follows : one pair 4 inch Dividers, with’ 
 pen, pencil and needle point ; one pair 4 inch plait. 
 Dividers; one Spring: .Bow Pen' and Pencil ;*onflf 
 Draw in a Pen and Pencil Case, jn morocco box. 
 
 Price,, $7,50, 
 
8 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER, 
 
 SPECIAL CASE OF INSTRUMENTS, 
 
 and Special offer for it and a Book, that every Draughtsman and 
 those intending to become Draughtsmen should have. 
 
 CASE A . 
 
 German Silver Drawing Instruments. 
 
 SUITED TO BUILDERS, AMATEURS AND OTHERS. 
 
 Containing 3% inch Dividers, with pen and pencil points, and 
 lengthening bar ; inch Plain Dividers ; 3% inch Needle Point 
 Dividers, with pen and pencil points ; 5)2 inch Drawing Pen ; 
 brass and horn Protractor ; Drawing Pencil ; Compass Pencil, 
 and 3 inch stick of India Ink. All in polished rosewood box, 
 with lock, key and tra}^. 
 
 Sent posi-jiaid on receipt of $ 5 . 00 . 
 
 JUS T PUBLIS HED, 
 
 A. TREATISE 0 1ST 
 
 Mathematical Drawing Instruments, 
 
 AND MOW TO USE THEM. 
 
 One imperial i6mo volume, bound in cloth, containing 152 pages, 
 and over 70 illustrations, including 11 different styles of lettering. 
 
 Sent post-paid on receipt of price f $ 1 . 50 . 
 
 When Case A and the above book are ordered at one time, they 
 will be sent post-paid on receipt of $6.00. 
 
 l£^“0nr General Circular of Instruments, Tracing Cloth. 
 Drawing Papers, Inks, &c., sent on application. 
 
6* ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 
 
 79 
 
 UILDING 
 
 This paper will be issued the mid- 
 dle of each month, and no effort will be 
 spared to make it thoroughly practical 
 and valuable to all interested in Build- 
 ing. Articles on different subjects will 
 be written by men thoroughly ac- 
 quainted with the practical and theoret- 
 ical questions pertaining to their own 
 departments. It will be very fully il- 
 lustrated, both by diagrams and cuts, 
 and contain a large number of new de- 
 signs of country and city houses, inter- 
 ior views and exterior and interior 
 details, prepared expressly for this 
 publication. 
 
 OFFICE OF PUBLICATION, 
 
 Wo. © ASTOEt PLACE, KEW FORK. 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher. 
 
 SUBSCRIPTION, 
 
 One Dollar a Year, in Advance 
 
80 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, PUBLISHER 
 
 An Improved Leveling Instrument. 
 
 Price of Instrument Complete, $20.00. 
 
 Adapted to the use of Architects, Engineers, Masons, Builders 
 Farmers and others. 
 
 This instrument is made of Brass and Iron, furnished with both 
 masons’ (short metal) and surveyors’ tripod. Put up i i handsome 
 wooden box with strap. The only low priced Level that can be thor- 
 oughly adjusted in the field. 
 
 This rod is round and made in two sections ; is united by a solid 
 screw joint, as if of one length, and has a target. There are two scales’ 
 one side being Engineers’ (feet, lOths and lOOths), the other Archi- 
 tects’ scale (or, feet inches and 8ths). 
 
 Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charg- 
 es of transportation from New York to the purchaser 
 are in all cases to be borne by him , I guaranteeing the 
 safe arrival of all instruments to the extent of express 
 transportations , and holding the express companies 
 responsible to me for all losses or damages on the way. 
 
 Where the Levd is ordered with the Rod , the price of the 
 two will be, - - - - - $ 25.00 
 
 A New Leveling Rod. 
 
 Price, 
 
 $ 6 . 00 . 
 
 Circular on Application. 
 
 WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 
 
 O Astor Place, I¥ew York,