Rand, B \ 1 H ^ '' ' ''^1 1 - F ve Vi | ^ y w if B " ' : and I RAND, MORALLY & Co;s BIRD'S-EYE VIEWS GUIDE TO CHICAGO INDISPENSABLE TO EVERY VISITOR. CONTAINING INXr.MKKABLE DETAILS OF BUSINESS AND RESIDENCE LOCALITIES; THE MOST CHAKMING CHIVES, THE VARIOUS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION, INCLUD- ING ROUTES TO THE EXPOSITION, DEPOTS, ETC.; TOGETHER WITH A . COMPLETE DIRECTORY OF CHURCHES, CLUBS, HOTELS, CAFE'S, THEATERS, AMUSEMENTS, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, PARKS, AND MONUMENTS A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION, IN SHORT, OF EVERY OBJECT OF ANY INTEREST IN THE CITY. CHICAGO AND NEW YORK: HAND, McXALLY & COMPANY. 1893. INTRODUCTORY. The present Guide has been prepared by writers whose long residence in Chicago has made them thoroughly famil- iar with the history and progress of the city. In its compilation two aims have been constantly kept in view: First, that all statements herein made should be absolutely true; second, that they should be clearly and concisely expressed, containing only such information as may be of positive value to strangers. A knowledge of localities and direction of streets is but partially complete unless the mind recalls with ease their separate features. While, therefore, maps and engravings might have embellished the work, in accordance with the fundamental theory of a Guide, a much more practical method of illustration has been chosen. This method consists of a series of accurate Bird's-Eye Views, executed by a unique combination of photography and topography, without doubt the best ever selected for a similar purpose. This task has involved the use of several hundred photographs, together with very great labor and expense, in order that the views, so far as their scope permits, may portray with perfect fidelity of detail the architectural effects rendered in fac-simile. Let the visitor, book in hand, judge from its immense and varied store of information how well the objects of the Guide have been accomplished. % Copyright, 1893, by Rand, McNally & Co., Chicago. INDEX TO CONTENTS. Abt & Fautl Building 98 Academies 274 Academy of Music 87 Academy of Sciences 190 Adams Express Building 46 Adams St., East End, looking south 30 Adams St., East, North from 54 Adams St., looking north on LaSalle 38 Adams St., north on Dearborn 46 Adams and Dearborn Sts., Looking south from 22 A. H. Andrews & Co. Building 30 Air Lane Elevator, The 166 Alexander Ave. Residents 200 Alexian Brothers 1 Hospital 196 Alhambra Theater 85 Alley Elevated, The 45 American Restaurant 68 Amusements 78 Amusements Business District 78 i Amusements North Side 86 Amusements South of Twelfth St 85 Anarchists, The 25 ! Archiepiscopal Palace 186 Argo Club 93 Arizona Apartments, The 244 Armour Institute 247 Armour Mission 247 i Armstrong Bust 230 r Arrival by Lake 37 Arrival in Chicago 27 j Art Institute, The 56, 153 Ashland Block .116, 135 Ashland Boul 220 Ashland Boul. Residents 224 Ashland Cafe and Restaurant 68 Ashland Club 94 Asylums 297 Athenseum Building 38 Athletic Club 94 Atlantic Hotel 74 Atlas Block 126 Auditorium, The 64, 78, 155 Auditorium Cafe 68 Auditorium Extension 64 j Auditorium Hotel 50 i| Auditorium Tower 156 Baptists 278, 283 Barry Ave. Residents 200 Bay State Building 148 Beautiful Lights at Night 107 Bellevue Place 182 Bellevue Place Residents 200 Berry's 75 Bicycles 222 Billy Boyle's Chop House 68 Board of Trade Building 16, 143 Board of Trade Group 143 Board of Trade, Vicinity of 14 Boddie Block 106 Bohemians 112 Bonfleld Building 134 Bordeaux Hotel 88 Borden Block, The . 116 Boston Oyster House 68 Boyce, W. D., Building 157 Boyleston Building 24 Bridges, The 158 Briggs House 50, 134 Brockway & McKey's Restaurant 68 Brother Jonathan Building 16, 145 Bryan Block 88 Buena Ave. Residents 201 Cab and Hack Hire 41 Cables 43, 44 Cafes in Dry Goods Stores 75 Calumet Ave. Residents 253 Calumet Building 143 Calumet Club 94 Calvary Cemetery . . 193 Camp Douglas 17, 237 CarletonClub ... 94 Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co. Building 106 Carter H. Harrison 221 Casino, The 30 Cass St 177 Cass St. Residents 201 Cathedral of the Holy Name 180 Caxton Building 80, 163 Central Bank Building 132 Central Elevators 158 Central Manufacturing Block 98 Central Music Hall ; 87, 124 Central Union Block 9t>, 143 Central Warehouse 160, 175 Chalmers Building 106 Chamber of Commerce 136, 142 Chapin & Gore's 76 Charities of Chicago, The 296 Chicago Athletic Association 94 Chicago Athletic Association Building. 56, 154 Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Building, 106,145 Chicago Club 94 Chicago Club Building 64 Chicago Fire Cyclorama 56 Chicago Opera House 82, 136, 142 Chicago Oyster House 68 Chicago River Light-House 158 Checkering Hall 32 Chinese Quarter Ill Christian Churches 284 Churches 252, 277 Churches on Ashland Boul 221 Churches on Oakwood Boul 288 City and County Buildings 130, 140 CliftonHouse 51, 54 Clubs 93 College, Chicago Medical 235 Colleges 274 College of Dental Surgery, Chicago .... 218 College of Physicians and Surgeons, 218, 220 Columbian Guard 298 Columbia Theater. 82 Columbus Memorial Building 126, 139 Columbus Monument 231 (3) INDEX TO CONTENTS. Commerce 158 Commercial Bank Building 46 Commercial Hotel 51, 118 Commercial Trade Building 96 Como Building 80, 164 Confectioners 75 Congregational Churches 278, 284 Congresses at the Art Palace 87 Congress Hall 218 Consuls in Chicago 301 Continental Hotel 56 Cook County Hospital 216, 219 Counselman Building 16, 144 Counsehnan Mansion, The 244 County Hospital Group 216, 219 Court House Group 130 Court House, View north of 116 Court House, View west of 132 Criminal Courts and Jail 135, 198 Cronin, Doctor, Murder of 26 Cumberland Presbyterians 286 Custom House 161 Cycling Clubs 301 Cycling Clubs, Associated 93 Dairy Kitchen Restaurant 69 Darkest Chicago Ill Davis, George R 213 Dearborn Ave., from Superior St 180 Dearborn Ave., North on 177 Dearborn Ave. Residents 201 Dearborn Block, The 126 Dearborn Seminary 235 Dearborn Station 34, 109 Dearborn St., going south 157 Dearborn St. , south from Lake 199 Delaware Place 180 Depots and Hotels, Location of 60 Dexter Building 22 Dickey Building 148 Donohue & Henneberry Building 109 Douglas Club 95 Douglas Monument 236 DouglasPark 215 Douglas, Stephen A 11 Drake Fountain, The 199 Drexel Boul 238 Drexel Boul. Residents . 254 Drexel Fountain .. 240 Dutch Reformed Churches 286 Edeu Musee 83 Edgewater 193 Edison Company's Power House 38 Educational 273 Eighteenth to Twenty-second St., From. 234 Electric Club 95 Electric Fountain 187 Elevated Roads on the West Side 222 Elevators 113 Ellsworth Building 80, 164 Episcopal Churches 280,286 Erie St 177 Erie St. Residents 203 Evangelical Association of North America 287 Evangelical Reformed Churches 287 Evangelical United Churches 287 Evanston 193 Evanston Ave. Residents 203 Eye and Ear Infirmary 296 Fair, The 46, 162 Falrbank Building 126 Fairbank, Morse I THE ANARCHISTS. Eight-hour agitation. A Congress of Labor held at Chicago in 1884 set May 1, 1886, as the date on which all labor unions should demand eight hours as a day's work. Indirectly this led to The riot in the Black Road. On Monday, May 3, 1886, there was a riot at the McCormick Reaper Works, on Blue Island Avenue. The works were attacked, a drug-store where a policeman took refuge was demolished, and the assault on the works was repulsed by firearms, with a loss to the rioters of six killed :ind fifty wounded. Spies, editor of the Arbeiler Zeituny, issued a call for a meeting the next night at the Haymarket Square, West Randolph Street, between Desplaines and Ilalsted, at the eastern end of which stands the police monument erected in honor of the officers killed or wounded near by. 26 HISTOKICAL FACTS. The meeting was not held on the wide Haymarket, but on Desplaines Street, a little north of Randolph. Later in the evening the crowd was ordered to disperse. At that moment (about 9 p. M. May 4, 1886) the lighted bomb, a small sphere, was thrown from an alley. Eight officers were mortally hurt, and sixty others badly wounded. Much shooting was done by the police, and many Anarchists and spectators were wounded. The trial. The arrest of the editors and speakers followed the next clay. Parsons, Spies, Engel, Fischer, Lingg, .Fielden, Neebe, and Schwab were put on trial for conspiracy to murder. The trial began June 7th, lasting sixty-two days. Parsons, Spies, Lingg, Fischer, Fielden, Schwab, and Engel were sentenced to death, Neebe to imprisonment. There was an appeal to the Supreme Court of Illinois, which affirmed the finding, and to the United States Supreme Court, which ruled that it had no jurisdiction. These pro- ceedings occupied more than a year's time. The execution took place on the lllh of November, 1887. The previous night Lingg committed suicide, almost blowing his head off. The Governor, at a late hour, commuted the sentences of Schwab and Fielden, who had asked for pardon. Burial of the Anarchists. A lot was purchased at Waldheim Cemetery, west on the Wisconsin Central (Northern Pacific), at the Desplaines River, and there the five dead men were buried. Each year, on the Sunday nearest to November llth, there are speeches at the graves, and on the llth of November, 1892, a monument was unveiled. The murder of Doctor Cronin was committed on the night of Saturday, May 4, 1889, at 8 o'clock. The murderers first rented and furnished c, room at 117 Clark Street, top floor, front. Abandoning this plan, they then moved their furniture to the Carlson cottage, at 1872 North Ashland Avenue, Lake View (far north), and enticed the doctor thither. His naked body was found May 22, 1889, in a man-hole near Graceland Cemetery, and his clothes in a sewer, some months later. Burke, Coughlin (an officer of police), and O'Sullivan were sentenced to life imprisonment. O'Sullivan died in prison May 5, 1892; Burke died in prison December 10, 1892, and C'oughlin was given a new trial January 19, 1893. Beggs, acquitted, died April 6, 1892. ARRIVAL IN CHICAGO. Visitors will ordinarily arrive either by railway or lake. If by railway, the new-comer will be set down at one of the seven great stations or depots, and it will be the purpose of this chapter to note the exact situation of these stations, and to tell the traveler exactly what to do to reach that section of the city where he wishes to go. We shall, therefore, divide this difficult subject into its seven natural parts, believing that the reader will not fail to observe that particular paragraph in which he is most deeply interested. We present on a neighboring page a carefully prepared map of latest date, placing and numbering sixty-three down-town hotels. The names, locations, method of caring for guests (whether on European or American plan), and rates, are given in each case on the descriptive page opposite the map. i. Union Passenger Station, Canal and Adams streets, serving the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, the Pennsylvania Liues west of Pittsburg, the Chicago & Alton, and the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul. We will sup- pose that you sit facing toward the locomotive, that the train has stopped, and that you come from tlie south. You are now in the heart of Chicago, with Lake Michigan distant ten blocks on your right, or east. As you leave the doors of the station, the lake will be at your back, and the north to your right hand. Street-cars passing almost over your head will carry you, for 5 cents, either toward the lake or toward the western limits. You are now standing immediately west of the city's business center, and from here there are five great main routes on which you may go either in search of the homes of friends or for purposes of information and pleasure. These routes are south, southwest, west, northwest, north. The city covers 178 square miles of surface, which will give you some idea how far out of the way you may go by starting wrong from this center. Ask some Chicagoan in which direction your friend's house is. If he says north (Lincoln Park region), take the nearest car at the left as you leave the station, to Clark Street; walk one block north to Monroe and reach the north city cable lines. The fare is 5 cepts on, every cable and horse-car line. If northwest (Humboldt Park region), go to the right as you leave the station, north on Canal Street to Washington, and west one block to Clinton, and board the Milwaukee Avenue cable-cars as they come out the northern river tunnel going west. If west (Garfield Park region), take horse- cars at left (three miles only), or go north to the northern tunnel, and take Madison cable, which will connect with electric-cars for Desplaines River, ten miles away. If southwest (Blue Island Avenue region), go south two blocks for Blue Island Avenue cars coming out of southern tunnel; or, if Doug- las Park region, go north to northern tunnel, and take Ogden Avenue car (27) 28 ARRIVAL IN CHICAGO. (always last on the train of cars). If south (World's Fair and Stock Yards), go to the left, take horse-car over the bridge east, and reach the two South Side cables, one on State Street for Englewood and the Stock Yards; one on Wabash Avenue for the World's Fair. The station numbered 3 on our map is the one in which you stand, and the small station numbered 10 on the map is the Elevated, which, for 5 cents, will take you to the World's Fair. The station numbered 5 on the map is the Illinois Central Suburban, which, for 10 cents, will take you to the World's Fair. There are, therefore, four ways in which you may get to the Fair State Street cable (indirect), connecting with east and west electric and horse car lines to the Fair, Wabash Avenue cable, Ele- vated and Illinois Central railroads. Two blocks south of the station in which you have arrived is the new tunnel through which the Van Buren Street and Blue Island Avenue lines of cable go under the river, thus short- ening the trip to the McCormick Reaper Works region. The maps will show you the names of Chicago's parks. These will, in turn, give you the five main routes we here lay down, and it will then be easy to correct any small error of the wrong car or the wrong street, for you will be journeying always toward your true destination. Fix it substantially in your mind lhat you are alongside the South Branch of the Chicago River, going north, ten blocks west of the lake, within easy walking distance of all the great hotels, and that good hotels are numerous close by. You leave the train and pass through an iron gateway. Here you find many conveniences. To the left, or south of the great staircase that leads up to the street for you are far below grade is a parcel-room, and small baggage may be checked for 10 cents. Here are wash-room, barber- shop, and a bureau of information, where all questions about hotels, cabs, bus, etc., will be answered fully. North of the wide staircase are the tele- graph office, lunch-counters, and smoking-room. If you desire an excellent meal, go upstairs to the cafe, where everything is good, with fair prices, say 35 to 50 cents for a satisfactory meal. If you are going through Chicago, and must re-check baggage, you must bear in mind that the in-depot is at the north end, up on Canal Street, and the out-depot is at the south end; so, to get your trunk, always go to the south baggage-room. The main floor of the great station is given almost entirely to waiting-rooms, with ladies' waiting- rooms and lavatories. Good news-stands will be found at the north end up- stairs and near the iron gates downstairs. Drawn up along Canal Street is a line of cabs, buses, coupes, and carriages. The bus fare will be 50 cents. The cab fares will be according to a card posted in the vehicle, generally 50 cents a mile, $1 an hour, day or night. It is always- wise to check your trunk on the. way into the city, by the agent who passes through the train. If you are bound for the great hotels, at $5 to $9 a day, you give yourself little thought of their location, for a busman or cabman will see to that, but if a more moderate charge is what you are seeking, then you may cross the ARRIVAL IN CHICAGO. 29 street diagonally southwest to the Oxford; or go north one block to the Wash- ington or Grand Central; or passing these, turn and go west to the Gault House. Across the street (Canal) are the Dowling, Golden Star (German), and Jefferson. Far north on Canal, at Randolph, is the Barnes House. On Madi- son, near the Gault, are the La Fayette and McEwan's. The famous avenue hotels (Auditorium, Leland, Richelieu, Victoria, Wellington) are all in a group near the lake shore (go over the Adams Street viaduct). The Grand ' Pacific, Great Northern, and Palmer are all a little nearer, and the Briggs, Sherman, and Tremont are at a considerable distance north (five blocks) after you reach Clark. The Commercial (Lake and Dearborn streets) is a $2 house with a large patronage. If you do not intend to stay over night, the station offers you first-class accommodations, such as reflect the greatest credit on the city and on the railroad lines over which you have traveled. Immi- grants are housed upstairs in the south end of the station, and many thousands annually are ticketed through almost like baggage, and as safely. 2. Wells Street Station (corner of Wells and Kinzie streets), serving j,he system of the Chicago & North- Western. Standing with face toward the loco- motive, in your car, you also face Lake Michigan, or east, with the south on your right. The station at which you have arrived is numbered 2 on our map of down-town hotels and stations. You have entered the city directly northwest of the business district of Chicago, and the most interesting parts of the city lie to your right, for you are at the northernmost station, and already on the North Side. A cable-car near by will carry you for 5 cents to the center of the town, or, if you are bound north (Lincoln Park), you are already well on your journey, and may safely take the cable going that way. To get to any one of the other main routes of our first paragraph, take the cable-car close by for the center of the town, and reach Washington Street, where cables run to west, northwest, and southwest (Douglas Park) points as follows: For Humboldt Park, on the northwest, take Milwaukee Avenue cable, asking conductor which car; for Garfield Park, on the west, Madison Street cable; for Douglas Park, on the southwest, board Ogden Avenue car, always last on Madison Street cable train. But to go far southwest, on Blue Island Avenue, take a horse-car that runs from Wells Street Station to Dearborn Station, and ride on to Van Buren Street, on which the Blue Island Avenue cable runs. For the World's Fair, the same horse-car will take you to within two blocks of the Elevated station, or within four blocks of the lake shore suburban service of the Illinois Central; or the cable near your station will carry you within two blocks of the South Side cables running on Wabash Avenue. A cab or bus may properly be taken if the transfer is to be from one depot to another, although there is a convenient line of horse-cars (spoken of above) that runs from here to the Dearborn Station (fare 5 cents). On leaving this station you find yourself on Wells Street. East two blocks is North Clark 30 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. East End of Adams Street, Looking South. An excellent view of the Pullman Building, and good relative views of the Isabella, the Siegel-Cooper (Leiter), and Old Colony buildings are afforded in the picture on the opposite page. Two celebrated hotels, the Leland and the Richelieu, are to be seen; and among popular retail stores, James H. Walker's and the Hub. At the southeast corner of Wabash Avenue and Jackson Street is a remarkable grouping of physicians' offices. Music and art flourish in this part of Wabash Avenue. Here, during war-times, was the fashionable resi- dence quarter of Chicago, and houses with large shaded grounds were to be seen all along Wabash Avenue. 1. The Pullman Building: Fronts 169 feet on Adams Street and 120 feet on Michigan Boulevard, at the southwest corner. This structure is described fully in our chapter on "Notable High Buildings." Its li) stories are 125 feet high and its north- west tower rises 162 feet above the street. It has 125 suites of offices and 75 apartments for residence, with 4 passenger elevators. The construction is of steel within, and granite, pressed brick, and terra cotta out- side. Here Mr. George M. Pullman has his offices, and here are the headquarters of the Pullman Palace Car Company. The United States Army maintains departmental head- quarters here, and many professional men and merchants occupy offices and stores. The Pullman, which is one of the principal edifices of Chicago, as well on account of situation as of intrinsic splendor, was erected in 1884, at a cost of $1,000,000. 2. The Stevens Art Building, At 24-26 Adams Street, is 50 feet wide, 80 feet deep, and 75 feet high, divided in 7 stories and basement. It has 1 store and art-gal- lery, 28 offices, and 2 passenger elevators. This new style of steel building has a granite and Roman brick exterior. It is occupied by artists, musicians, and modistes. It was erectel in 1888, at a cost of $260,000 3. The James H. Walker Building (Retail) Fronts 80 feet on Wabash Avenue and 225 feet on Adams Street, at the southwest cor- ner, and is 70 feet high, with 6 stories and basement. This is one of the great retail stores of Chicago, and its 7 floors are in themselves a fair, where nearly everything useful and ornamental pertaining to an American home may be seen or purchased. The display in the windows is very fine. There are 4 passenger elevators, 32 depart- ments, and 400 employes. The building is one of the handsomest of the ante-steel era of construction. 4. The Owen Electric Belt Building- Fronts 142 feet on A-'ams and 75 feet on State Street, at the southeast corner, and is 80 feet high, with 4 stories and basement. The fittings of the American Oyster House, in the basement, are an example of the magnificence of our contemporaneous archi- tecture. There are 10 store-rooms, 60 offices, and 3 passenger elevators. The offices are occupied principally by manufacturers 1 agents and jewelers. The edifice was erected in 1891, at a cost of $130,000. 5. The Hub Building- Fronts 100 feet on Jackson and 123 feet on State Street, at the northwest corner. It is a 5-story building, 7-) feet high, with 2 pas- senger elevators. It is occupied by the Hub Clothing Company, which employs 100 salesmen. Erected in 1883. Cost, $200,000. 6.. The A. H. Andrews & Co. Building-, At 215-221 Wabash Avenue, like Kimball Hall, farther south, makes a fine showing on the street, having graceful bays and liberal provision for light. The building is 80 feet wide, 125 feet deep, and 95 feet high, with 7 stories and basement; has 2 stores, 25 offices, and 3 elevators. The building has a stone and steel front, and is mainly occupied by A. H. Andrews & Co., office and school furniture manufacturers and wholesalers. It was erected in 1890. 7. The Casino Was built as the Eden Musee, at 227-229 AVabash Avenue, with a frontage of 54 feet, a depth of 70 feet, and a height of 90 feet, in 5 stories and basement. It is a handsome structure of the old style, erected in 1888, at a cost of $115,000, and is open to the public as a wax-work museum and family minstrel show. 8. The .Leland Hotel Fronts 180 feet on Jackson Street and 160 feet on Michigan Boulevard, at the south- west corner. Its admirable situation on the Lake Front and the honored name it bears have brought it into widespread popularity. Before the Lelands purchased it it was called the Gardner House, and was always notice- able for the varying bright colors with which its walls were covered. The building is 70 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 31 32 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. feet high, divided in 6 stories and basement, and has on ils main floor 5 stores and a caf 6. There are 275 rooms and 2 passenger ele- vators. An artesian well flows in the office, which is on the main floor, as are the recep- tion-rooms. The white marble fittings of this hotel are a result of the remodeling in 1890, when Kittredge & Skeels, the present proprietors, took charge. A cheerful public fire-place is a feature which greets the stranger in winter. Originally built in 1872, at a cost of $500,rOO; remodeled in 1891, at a costof $200,000. (See "Hotels.") 9. The Richelieu Hotel, Next south of the Leland, fronts 125 feet on Michigan Boulevard, and is 125 feet deep. The building is 90 feet high, with 6 stories and basement; brick and terra cotta walls. There are 125 rooms and 1 passenger ele- vator. The furnishing of this hotel, the service, and the indefinable thing called "tone" are such as to attract guests of great reputation and large wealth. The article on " Hotels " in this guide mentions some of the characteristics of this hostelry. Erected in 1885. 10. Chickering Hall Fronts 100 feet on Jackson Street and 50 feet on Wabash Avenue. It is 65 feet high, with 6 stories and basement, and contains a re- cital hall of high standing among musicians, who nearly fill the 35 offices of the building. Here are 2 stores, and here are the head- quarters in Chicago of the Domestic Sewing Machine Company. The structure, a fine one, was erected in 1878. 11. The Athenaeum Building, At 18 -26 Van Buren Street, is the home of one of the noblest of Chicago's semi-public institutions. Here classes in almost all schools of knowledge are maintained, where the adult student may repair the neglect of earlier years. Nor are athletic exercises de- spised. The Athenaeum had its quarters in 1874 where the Peacock Cafe now is, on Mad- ison Street near Clark, and for many years later was on Dearborn Street near Randolph. Its main apostle was O. C. Gibbs, and Ferdi- nand W. Peck has been one of its steadfast friends. Here a young man or woman may study foreign languages, elocution, history, or science. He may in some sense enter good society, and here he will form life-long acquaintances. The building is 125 feet wide, 120 feet deep, and 7'0 feet high, with 7 stories and basement. There are 2 passenger ele- vators. The walls are of brick and cut-stone. Erected in 1886, at a cost of $107,000; re- modeled in 1891, at a cost of $200,000. ARRIVAL IN CHICAGO. 33 Street, an important thoroughfare leading straight to Lincoln Park, on which you will find hotels such as the Revere, Grand Palace, Waters, Clarendon, Damon, Davenport, Hammond, Howard, European, Normandie, Superior, and Teller's. The Virginia and Granada are family hotels that do not quote rates, and require references. The following houses may be found very near the station: Colombo, Danraark (German), American, Garden City (Swiss), Gar- field, Metropolitan, North City, Neef's (French and German), Anna, Bradford, and Le Grand. Lauterbach's and the Columbia hotels are farther east, on North Slate. AH the very large public houses of Chicago are on the South Side, but to reach some of them only a short walk over the bridge need be taken. The Briggs, Sherman, Tremont, Merchants, and Commercial, together with the Nicollct, Germania, Currier's, Henrici, Ogden, Old Metropolitan, Hamburg, and Barnes (West Side), all cater naturally to guests who come from this Wells Street Station, which is near them, though across the river. Beauti- ful flowers are sold here, and all the appurtenances of a new and first-class structure are in plain sight. On the first floor, or basement, to the right of the main stairway, are the lunch-counter, news stand, baggage-room, and closets; to the left, ticket and telegraph offices, smoking room, and depot- master's quarters. Ascending the stairs to the main floor, the restaurant (cafe) is at the left, or north; the waiting- rooms and parcel-booth occupy the entire middle and southern portions. You must cross the Wells Street bridge over the main river, close at hand, to reach the business section of the city. The thoroughfare called Wells Street north of the bridge is called Fifth Avenue south of it. There is a clock in the tower of the station, showing standard time, an hour slower than New York time. 3. Twelfth Street Station (on the lake shore), serving the Illinois Cen- tral, the Michigan Central, the "Big Four" (Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago & St. Louis), and the Chicago & West Michigan roads. When you reach this station, which is numbered 8 on our map, you have passed the World's Fair six miles back, and have come directly north; Lake Michigan is due east. You are a mile south of the river, on the very street which was the first southern boundary of the city. Before you, on the north, stretches the Lake Front Park, and to the left of it appear the fa9ades of a noble line of great structures, among them the Auditorium and Pullman Building. The first street is Michigan Boulevard, said by the late Duke of Marlborough to be the finest drive in the world. A trip down this boulevard on the way to the World's Fair would be a wise investment of the extra money it would cost, and certain pages of this "Guide" will be found descriptive of the residences on the way. Now as to main routes: The south one (World's Fair) is to be secured by returning on the tracks just used; by walking two blocks away from the lake, to Wabash Avenue, or three blocks to State Street, for the south cables, or to the Elevated. For the west (Garfield Park) or north- 3 34 AKRIVAL IN CHICAGO. west (Humboldt Park), take a Wabash Avenue cable and ride to Washington Street, then walk west one block to State Street to get the Madison Street or three blocks to La Salle for Milwaukee Avenue cables. For the north (Lincoln Park), take Wabash Avenue cars, go north to Monroe, get off and go west two blocks to Dearborn, where the north cable may be boarded. On all street-cars in Chicago and on the Elevated the fare is 5 cents a trip, long or short. To go southwest, you may save time by taking a horse-car over the great Twelfth Street viaduct to either Blue Island Avenue cable, two miles west, or Ogden Avenue horse-cars, three miles west. The hotels nearest the Twelfth Street Station are the Bordeaux, Metropole, Imperial, Martinette, and Stamford. All needful general directions as to telegraphing, baggage, washing, eating, waiting, etc., will be found in paragraph No. 1, and need not be repeated here. The station itself was formerly a mile north, where a suburban terminal is now maintained. 4. Dearborn Station (Polk Street, head of Dearborn Street), serving the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, the Chicago & Erie, the Chicago & Eastern Illinois, the Chicago & Grand Trunk, the Monon Route (Louisville, New Albany & Chicago), and the Wabash. This station is numbered 6 on cur map of down town hotels and stations. You have entered well into Chicago from the south, and as you face the locomotive, in your car, Lake Michigan (east) is on your right, and the north is directly in front of you. Go out of the front door of the station and you are at the head of Dearborn Street. Of the buildings which line it several are sixteen stories in height and many are ten and twelve. But this beautiful station is itself well worthy of notice, on account of the novelty and utility of many of its accessories. The great fire- places, the Flemish tower with its brazen dragon, the marble fittings of its basement region, the busy scenes attending the departure and arrival of trains for six great railroads all these things should be carefully observed. On leaving your train, to the left are the restaurant (cafe), smoking-room, and news-stand; to the light, waiting-rooms, ticket and telegraph offices, parcel- booth, and ladies' retiring-rooms. In the basement are the barber-shop, men's closets, and second-class waiting-rooms. Vast numbers of immigrants go west by way of this station. If you visit it during certain morning hours you will see thousands leaving the station on foot; they are suburban residents, bound for the tall buildings near by. If it is dark you will see the lights shining on the sixteenth story of the Great Northern Hotel, and you are to know that this hotel is on the northeast corner of Dearborn and Jackson streets. You may here take a special street-car (5 cents) and travel to the North Side (Wells Street Station; see paragraph No. 2). By this means you can go either to the doors, or within a block, of, first, the Great Northern, Windsor, Tremont, Commercial; or, second (on the left), McCoy's, Gore's, Hotel Grace, the Grand Pacific, the small Clark Street hotels named ARRIVAL IN CHICAGO. 35 in paragraph 5, and also the Sherman aud Briggs; on the right, the Palmer, Richelieu, Leland, Victoria, Auditorium, Wellington, Clifton, Brunswick, and all the State Street hotels Conroy's, Bartl's, Richmond, Brown's, Continental, Wood's, Goldston's, Grand. Now as to general routes: To go south (World's Fair, etc.), walk toward Lake Michigan, to the cables or the Elevated. North (Lincoln Park), take the special horse car to Monroe Street and board the north cable. Northwest and west, same horse-car and reach Washington Street; Milwaukee Avenue cable for Humboldt Park, and Madison Street cable for Garfield Park. Southwest, walk north to Van Buren Street, and take Blue Island Avenue cable. All directions as to baggage, eating, waiting, riding, etc., which have been previously given apply here. If your time in Chicago is short, go at once to the Fair, and leave light baggage at the check-rooms. At night be particular to get a car near by, or take a cab. A clock on the tower gives you standard time, an hour slower than New York time. 5. Van Buren Street Station (between Pacific Avenue and Sherman Street), serving the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern and the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific This well appointed and conveniently located station at which you have arrived is numbered 4 on our map of down-town hotels and stations. As you face the locomotive, Lake Michigan i^ on your right (east) a quarter of a mile away, and the South Branch of the river is on your left (west) just about the same distance, and you have penetrated north into Chicago to within one half block of the Board of Trade, br over half-way through the city. You are about seven miles north of the World's Fair Grounds. As you leave the train the waiting-rooms, restaurant (caf?), lunch- counter, ticket office, telegraph-office, baggage-room, and closets are all on your left, and the street outside is Sherman, running alongside or west of the station. If you go out at the front of the station, you face north. To your left is the Atlantic House; to your right, Stafford's Hotel; south of the Atlantic are the Rock Island and Garden City houses; to the right one block, across the street, is McCoy's, and around the corner, Gore's, both cele- brated " European" hotels. The Grand Pacific is just beyond. Across from Gore's, on Clark Street, is the Hotel Grace; and all these hotels are in the very center of New Chicago. The directions which will enable you to reach the different parts of the city from this point are very simple. To go south (World's Fair), walk four blocks east to State Street cable, or five blocks east .to Wabash Avenue cable, or to Congress Street for the Elevated, or t > the lake for the Illinois Central. To go southwest, take Blue Island Avenue cable in front of you. To go west (Garfield Park), walk to right one block to Clark Street, then north five blocks to Washington Street, and take Madison cable. Togo northwe-t (Humboldt Park), walk one-half block west to Sherman Street, then north and east one and one-half blocks to La Salle Street, then north to Ma;lis n Street and board the Milwaukee cable. To 36 ARRIVAL IN CHICAGO. go north (Lincoln Park), walk to Clark Street, then north three blocks to Mon- roe Street, and take North Side cable. Let us suppose you go lakeward to the corner of Clark Street, there in the far north, beyond the court house, is the Sherman House. Go lakeward a block farther, and at Dearborn Street, looking northward, you see first the Great Northern, and in the far dis- tance the Tremont House and Commercial Hotel at Lake Street; a block far- ther, at State Street, looking northward, you can see the Palmer House on the east side; still another block and at Wabash Avenue you can look north- ward for the Clifton House and Wellington Hotel; one block farther east and you reach Michigan Avenue, and there in a row you find the Leland, Riche- lieu, Victoria, Auditorium, and Auditorium Extension. There arc a number of hotels charging lower prices on Clark Street, from Van Buren to Washington, streets, including the Arcade, Chicago European, Deming, Cosmopolitan, New Rockford, Kuhn's, National, Lawrence, Underwriters', Kimball's, and others. 6. Grand Central Station (Harrison Street and Fifth Avenue), serving the Chicago & Northern Pacific, the Chicago Great Western, and the Balti- more & Ohio. This station is numbered 7 on our map of down-town hotels and stations. You have arrived in the new and magnificent station at Harrison Street and Fifth Avenue, where the invention and experience of railroad men have joined to make your reception agreeable, safe, and convenient. The eating arrangements, roominess, and solidity of this structure will not soon fade from your 'memory. To the right, as the handsome waiting-room is entered, are the baggage-rooms, lunch-counter, barber-shop, and ladies' retiring- rooms. The restaurant (cafe) is reached by ascending the marble staircase. To the left, as you approach the main exit at the corner of Harrison Street and Fifth Avenue, will be found ticket and telegraph offices, parcel-room, and bureau of information. As you face the locomotive, in your car, the north is before you, and Lake Michigan to your east. The hotels in the vicinity are the Crescent and Lindell. Nearly all the well-advertised houses will be found within a half-mile north and northeast. On leaving the station, you reach Harrison Street, the southern limit of the Great Fire east of that point; the street running north is Fifth Avenue, and the horse-cars on this street are your only cheap means of riding to the business center. The Twelfth Street horse-cars come by on Fifth Avenue, and the Taylor Street cars on Harrison. Note carefully that some of the Twelfth say " Randolph," some " State Street," or " Van Buren and State." In nearly every case you need the car with the " Randolph" sign. The only exception is that if you wish to go south or to the World's Fair, take the Van Buren and State Street (the Twelfth Street cars) or any Taylor Street car to State Street or Wabash Avenue, where you may take either the State Street or Wabash Avenue cables. Southern points are also reached by the Illinois Central suburban trains from the Lake Front,' opposite Van Buren Street, or by the Elevated, on Congress near State Street. ARRIVAL IN CHICAGO. 37 The Wabash Avenue cable is the best cable for the Fair, as the State Street is not so direct. The Elevated carries passengers to the Fair. If you wish to walk across, these southern thoroughfares are about four blocks east, but Har- rison Street is crossed by many railway tracks, and you will do wisely to take the street-cars and avoid danger. To go north (Lincoln Park), take (only) Randolph and Twelfth Street car at door on Fifth Avenue and ride to Dear- born Street, then take north cable (two fares, 5 cents each). To go west (Garfield Park), take (only) Randolph and Twelfth Street car, on Fifth Ave- nue, and go north to Washington Street for Madison Street cable. For the northwest (Humboldt Park), same car to Washington Street for Milwaukee Avenue cable. For the southwest, take Taylor Street or Twelfth Street car to Van Buren Street for Blue Island Avenue cable, or Randolph and Twelfth Street cars to Washington Street for Ogden Avenue car on Madison Street cable. Remember, also, that interior southwest points can be reached by taking, at the door, the two horse cars of which we have now so often spoken. Of the great hotels, the nearest is the Grand Pacific, and when you have reached that, there are fifty not four blocks away. Consult especially para- agraphs 1 and 5 for petty details on arrival, and look at the map for hotels. A conspicuous clock inside the depot and a tow T er clock outside will both give you the standard lime for all railroads in Chicago, one hour slower than New York time. The clock tower at the northeast corner of the station is 242 feet in height, the bell of the big clock weighing 11,000 pounds. 7. Nickel Plate R. R. Station, Twelfth and Clark streets No. 9 on our map is the terminus of the NewYork, Chicago & St. Louis Railroad, leaving the visitor at Twelfth Street, where cars pass to the West Side or down-town, as their signs indicate. Still farthei cast one block is the State Street cable, passing the Palmer House, and yet farther are the Wabash Avenue and Cottage Grove cables and the Alley Elevated, all leading to the Fair. 8. By Lake. The view of the city from the lake, if you arrive by day, will excite your admiration, but it is more comfortable often to arrive in the night and awake in Chicago, for the change from the cool atmosphere on the water to the warmer air on land is not so sudden. As we can not foresee at what dock you will debark, you would do well to note that three of the fore- going stations are on or near the river Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 7. Inquiry of captain or clerk will inform you as to which railroad station is nearest his dock, and the directions of the paragraph pertaining to that station can then be used. Our map of down-town hotels and stations should be of service here, as a long line of river frontage is shown. If your steamer goes as far south as Twelfth Street, horse cars on Canal going north will serve you. If you go out the North Branch, Clybourn and Milwaukee Avenue cars ought to be near you. The Wells Street Station is numbered 2 on our map; the Union Passenger Station is numbered 3, and the Grand Central Station is numbered 7. By means of these landmarks you can easily determine on your hotel. VIEWS OF CHICAGO. From Adams Street, Looking North on La Salle. The tract of valuable and populous territory that falls under the eye on the opposite page contains some of the finest business buildings in the world. Conspicuous among these is the Woman's Temple. Some features of the Home Insurance the Cyclopean granite walls of its lower stories must be closely studied to be appreciated. At the northeast corner of Monroe and La Salle streets is the Nixon Building, which stood unscathed through the Great Fire. Beyond is the Young Men's Christian Association Building, and, dimly beyond, the Tacoma is seen. At the left, on Fifth Avenue, rises the Lees, and still higher beyond it, the Security Deposit. All these are solid steel edi- fices; and another, the Calumet, is thrown- out of view by the presence of the Home Insurance. For twenty years this part of La Salle Street has been given over largely to insurance and real est .te. 1. The Schlossser Block, At the northwest corner of Adams and La Salle streets, is a handsome stone-front of the pattern once deemed desirable on La Salle Street. The basement is very high, and there are 4 upper stories. Here the Current was born the most ambitious lit- erary venture of early Chicago and the Single Tax Club has entertained many ac- complished thinkers and writers of differ- ent principles. The building, which was erected in 1872, fronts 120 feet on La Salle, 60 feet on Adams, and is 65 feet high. It has 8 stores, 29 offices, and over 160 occu- pants, who are agents, brokers, and pub- lishers. 2. The Home Insurance Building, At the northeast corner of Adams and La Salle streets, has been described generally in another place. It is a high steel building of the first class, and has been increased from 10 to 12 stories in recent years. It fronts 140 feet on La Salle and 97 on Adams, with a height of 180 feet. The walls of the lower two stories are made of one course of granite blocks. The foundations are heavy, and the brick walls of the superstructure are very thick. There are 235 offices, 1,250 occupants, and 4 passenger elevators. The principal tenants are Armour & Co., who have general offices here, and the Union National Bank, of which J. J. P. Odell is president. Insurance agents, manufact- urers' agents, publishers, and professional men fill the building. Erected in 1884, at a cost of $800,000, and enlarged in 1891. 3. The Edison Company's Power House, At 139-141 Adams Street, although a small building, contains 16 engines, 32 dynamos, and furnishes power for 100,000 electric lights. Its chimneys have added a chief dif- ficulty to the Chicago smoke problem. Dimensions: Width on Adams, 50 feet; depth, 200 feet; height, 40 feet. The gen- eral offices of the Chicago Edison Company are here. Erected in 1887. 4. The Porter Block Has 100 feet fronton Clark Street and 80 feet on Adams, at the northwest corner. It is 75 feet high, with 4 stories and basement, containing 6 stores and 40 offices. It is occu- pied by railway ticket offices, agents, and physicians; was erected in 1873. 5. The Kent Block, At 151-153 Monroe Street, is a fine brick front of the old style, 40 feet wide, 60 feet deep, 85 feet high, with 6 stories and base- ment. There are 2 stores, 44 offices, and 1 elevator in the building, which is occupied by professional men. Erected in 1871. 6. The Nixon Building, At the northeast corner of Monroe and La Salle streets, was in the finishing stages and wet with new plaster on the night of the burning of Chicago. Little or no damage was done to it, and it served as a nucleus around which to gather new business and begin rebuilding. It fronts 46 feet on Mon- roe and 80 feet on La Salle, with 65 feet of height in 6 stories and basement. There are 48 offices and 1 elevator. The tenants are real estate, insurance, financial, legal, and other professional men. There are about 150 occupants. 7. The Bryan Block Fronts 190 feet on La Salle and 50 feet on Monroe, at the northwest corner. It is 55 feet liigh, with 4 stories and basement. It is a stone-front of 1872, containing 6 stores, 95 offices, and 1 elevator, and is devoted principally to real estate and insurance. VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 39 40 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 8. The Woman's Temple, At the southwest corner of Monroe and La Salle streets, is the most conspicuous office building in this part of town. It is described in another chapter. It was erected in 1893, at a cost of nearly $1,500,000. The lot is 96 feet wide on Monroe and 190 feet deep on La Salle. The Temple is 185 feet high, in 12 stories and basement, with 300 offices. Seven passenger elevators carry 15,000 persons daily. The construction is fire-proof, of steel, granite, brick, and terra cotta, with white marble rotunda, staircases, and wain- scotings. Four banks the National Bank of America, the Bank of Commerce, the Metro- politan National Bank, and the Bank of Montreal are to be found here, and Willard Hall may be entered on the ground floor, from Monroe Street. Main entrance on La Salle Street, where the semicircle of eleva- tors should be seen. 0. The Wells Building, At the northwest corner of Monroe Street and Fifth Avenue, has a frontage of 80 feet on both thoroughfares, and is a 7 story structure 110 feet high, with 1 freight eleva- tor. Its walls are of brick and iron, and built with great attention to light and air. It was erected in 1884, just after a destruc- tive conflagration at this corner, and fore- shadowed, in the lightness of its walls, the discovery that a building could be made in- dependent of its exterior in the matter of security. M. D. Wells & Co., a great whole- sale boot and shoe house, occupy the prem- ises. 1O. The Oalbraith Building Fronts 100 feet on Madison and 200 feet on Franklin Street, at the northeast corner. It is 80 feet high, with 6 stories and basement. It was remodeled in 1892, and is a stone-front of 1873. It has 6 stores and 2 elevators. The tenants are wholesale jobbers and man- ufacturers' agents. 11. The Lees Building. 147 to 153 Fifth Avenue, is a modern 12-story and basement steel building. The materials used in its construction are pressed brick and terra cotta, plate-glass being generally used. With a frontage of 80 feet, a depth of 115 feet, and height of 165 feet, the structure presents a substantial appearance, being, it is claimed, absolutely fire-proof and strong enough to resist the heaviest strain. It is the best naturally lighted office building in the city, having a wide alley on three sides. Two hydraulic passenger and 2 steam freight elevators afford ample accommoda- tion to the occupants, who are mainly man- ufacturers' and importers' agents and jobbers. The building was erected in 1892, at a cost of $325,000. 12. The La Salle Building, Fronting 80 feet on Madison and 40 feet on La Salle Street, at the northwest corner, was one of the most sumptuous edifices of the rebuilding era. It is an ornate stone- front of 5 stories and high basement in the La Salle-Street style, and runs 2 passenger elevators. There are 5 stores and 30 suites of offices. The height of the stone-front walls is 85 feet. The occupants are finan- cial, insurance, real estate, and professional corporations and persons. Built in 1874. 13. The Y. M. C. A. Building Covers the site of Farwell Hall, in the rear of 150 Madison Street, fronting La Salle Street on the east side at Arcade Court (an alley) . This splendid building is like the Athletic Club's steel building on Michigan Boulevard. The lot is irregular, but has 54 feet front on La Salle, and is 187 feet deep on Arcade Court, with greater width in the rear. The structure is 190 feet high, with 12 stories and basement. Its interior is de- scribed in our chapter on "Notable High Buildings." It was erected in 1893, at a cost of $850,000. The skeleton steel method of architecture is here followed, nothing de- pending on outer walls. Farwell Hall had a notable history. It burned before the Great Fire; it burned in the Great Fire; it was demolished to make way for this steel sky- scraper. 14. The Security Deposit Company Building, As well as the Lees, which stands south of it, has been described in our chapter on "Notable High Buildings." The former fronts 47 feet on Madison and 100 feet on Fifth Avenue, at the southeast corner. It is a sky-scraper of 14 stories and basement, 147 feet high, with 4 passenger elevators. There are 5 stores and 150 offices. It was erected in 189i, at a cost of $500,000, and is occupied by wholesale .agents and professional men. TRANSPORTATION. Will you need any kind of conveyance in Chicago, and if so, what kind? In answer, you will have to ride every day a great deal. Names. The vehicles will be, in the order of their comparative useful- ness, cable-cars, horse-cars, suburban trains, and ordinary road-carriages. Of the latter, there are five great divisions " hacks," cabs, omnibuses, coupes, and buggies. Everything in the style of a landau or landaulet is popularly- called a "hack." The hansom cab may be known by the odd position of the driver in the elevated seat in the rear, the reins stretching over the passenger's head. The coupe" is a " hack " for one or two. The omnibus, except for the use of the hotels, has been nearly abandoned. A solitary line of carettes runs from the West Side to Lincoln Park. Expense. The foreigner may be alarmed upon learning the schedule of ratrs for one and two horse vehicles the first, 50 cents a mile; the second, $1 a mile; the first, 75 cents an hour; the second, $2 for first hour, and $1 an hour thereafter. But he should understand that except on a few special occasions the cable or horse-car answers all purposes, and is much cheaper than a carriage. The hackman, having few fares, must charge well for. what he gets to do. In our chapter on " Arrival " we have shown the prudent traveler just how to reach any quarter of this city, for 10 cents at most, and he can, by street-car, for this 10 cents, secure a ride that would cost ij9 in a landau, by the mile. Street-cars. There is no difference between horse-cars and cable cars as to price. You may enter any street-car in Chicago and ride as far as it goes by paying 5 cents, which a conductor will in all cases collect. This means that you may ride to the World's Fair for a nickel from any point on State Street or Wabash Avenue. Fare on the Elevated road (station near the Audi- torium) is also a nickel. Fare on the Illinois Central is 10 cents. The cab'e- slot in the streets and there are too many for enumeration here warns you that cable-cars run on that thoroughfare. Guard yourself, therefore, as you would on an out-of-town railroad-track. The particularly dangerous corners are at State and Madison, Randolph and La Salle, Dearborn and Randolph, and Dearborn and Madison. Be as careful not to get on or off a cable-car while it is in motion as you would be were it a steam-car. Cab and hack hire. As only two railway stations connect by a direct street-car note that these two stations are the Wells Street Station and Dear- born Station it may happen that when a traveler desires to hasten to another railway station from the one in which he has arrived, he should take a cab or landau. What ought he to pay and not be cheated? Again, he may desire to (41) 42 TRANSPORTATION. see Michigan Boulevard, Prairie Avenue, the Lake Shore Drive, and Lincoln Park, or the three West Side parks, and to do any of these things well, he should engage a landaulet. The city card which will be found in every vehicle tells exactly what the regular rates are, and it should be studied carefully. You are to look at this red card, and make a note of the official number of the hack, cab, or coupS you have hired, for the card itself will tell you the name of the vehicle as well as its number. You may hire by the hour or by the mile. If you indicate no choice as you enter, you must pay by the mile. If you ride by the mile, you may stop under fifteen minutes; over fifteen "minutes you must pay $1 an hour for detention. It is not customary to carry a trunk on a cab, but on all vehicles which will allow a trunk beside the driver in front, the trunk and a satchel go with the fare on the card. On the back of the card will be found both a map and a table of distances between depots, and between depots and leading hotels. Lost articles and complaints. As you enter, take the badge number of your driver. Should you by mistake leave anything of value in his vehicle, leave complaint and description with the City Vehicle Inspector, Room 6 City Hall (La Salle Street side of the Court House). If a driver has persisted in charging you more than the card rate, and you have paid him, you may reclaim the money on complaint to the City Vehicle Inspector. And the Mayor asks all persons to take proof and complain promptly in cases of overcharge. For this purpose the services of any police officer may be called upon, who will at once report to the Chief of Police, ;md the driver's license will be revoked if he shall be found guilty of wrong-doing. WHAT ARE YOU TO PAY ? One horse. A mile or lass, for one or two passengers, 50 cents; each sub- sequent mile, 25 cents more; by the hour, whether for one or two passengers, 75 cents; each succeeding quarter-hour, 20 cents, or 80 cents an hour; add, also, the time that may be required by the driver to return to his stand. In the parks, for one or two passengers, $1 an hour, and 25 cents for each subse- quent quarter-hour, plus time to return to stand. Children under five years of age can not be charged for; between five and fourteen, half-rates, and this applies to all vehicles. Cabs can always be found around the Court House or the Post Office, at all the railway stations, and at or near the leading hotels. Two horses. Between depots, with trunk, $1, one or two persona, though it would manifestly be impossible to carry a trunk for each passenger; same persons, one mile or less, $1; under two miles, $1.50; each additional passenger, 50 cents; two people, over tw.) miles, $2; additional passengers, 50 cents each; one or more passengers by the day, $8; by the hour, $2; each additional hour, TRANSPORTATION. 43 or part of an hour, $1. If baggage weighs over 100 pounds the driver may charge 15 cents for each parcel constituting such over-weight. All of this information is posted in each vehicle. The absence of the card, if proved, will result in the loss of license by the driver. Livery. Thickly scattered through the city are livery-stables, with tele- phones. If a landaulet or fine vehicle be desired, step to a public telephone (sign in front of a drug-store), pay 10 cents, look at list of liveries in telephone book, choose a stable near your stopping-place, and order the carnage, ascer- taining at the telephone what the charge will be. A fine ride through several parks will cost from $6 up, with four persons to go. STREET RAILWAYS. The chief features of intramural travel have been mentioned quite fully in the chapter on " Arrival." Once in the heart of the city, there are five main directions in which to reach the city limits the north cables, the northwest cable, the west cable, the southwest cable, and the south cable. The north cables. What are called " loops " make endless chains of the cables. The North Side loop reaches the South Side through the La Salle Street tunnel, goes south on La Salle Street to Monroe, turns east on Monroe to Dearborn, north on Dearborn to Randolph, west on Randolph to the tunnel. At some point on this loop you must take all cable-trains for the North Side. Two parallel streets on the North Side run north only two blocks apart, and join at Lincoln Park Clark and Wells streets. Wells is the same as Fifth Avenue on the South Side. Each street has a cable, so if you are going to Lincoln Park it makes no difference whether you take Clark or Wells cable- trains. But at the park a cable on Lincoln Avenue branches off to the north- west. A cable branches off from Wells at Division, runs west on that s'reet to Clybourn Avenue, and then on that important thoroughfare, which runs, nearly parallel with the North Branch. A North Halsted Street trailer is dropped at Clybourn Avenue and Halsted and drawn by horses due nor !h to Evanston Avenue. On the rear ends of cable-trains will be found the " trailer " cars that are to be dropped from the train and drawn by horses to the ends of the feeder lines. Such trailers will be found on various cable-trains, whereby special cars may be taken for points on Webster Avenue, Fullerton Avenue, Garfield Avenue, Center Street, and Division Street. Take particular notice that old-time full-route horse-cars run on Sedgwick and Larrabee streets. There are also horse-cars on North State Street. Straight west cable. The northern loop of the West Side cable leaves the Washington Street tunnel, goes east to Fifth Avenue, south to Madison Street, east to State Street, north ti Washington, west to the tunnel. This loop carries aU cable cars for west and Douglas Park (in the west-southwest). 44 TRANSPORTATION. The main west route is Madison Street, and by taking a train that has no pla- card before its grip-car you may travel directly westward to West Fortieth Street for 5 cents, a distance of nearly five miles, passing Garfield Park. At the terminus you may take an electric-car of the Cicero & Proviso Co., and for a nickel more ride on either to Oak Park or Maywood. The Madison Street trains haul but one trailer, which is dropped two miles west, and then is drawn by horses on Ogden Avenue, past Douglas Park to Lawndale. Northwest cable. The loop reaches the South Side through Washington Street tunnel, goes east on Washington to Fifth Avenue, south to Madison, east to La Salle, north to Randolph, west to Fifth Avenue, south to Washington, west to the tunnel. This cable runs on Milwaukee Avenue, and penetrates the thickly settled region that has Humboldt Park for its chief attraction. It goes to Aruiitage Avenue, which runs westward north of Humboldfc Park. Besides the main Milwaukee grip-car, many trailers are attached, and the trav- eler to places on West Chicago Avenue, West Division Street, and West North Avenue should be particular to get on the trailer marked with his own street rather than the grip-car, which is m irked Milwaukee Avenue. Southwest cable. Emerging from a third tunnel which has been lately bored under the river near Van Buren Street, the loop passes east to Franklin, south to Van Buren, east to Dearborn, north to Adams, and then south on Franklin, where it re-enters the tunnel. The cable runs southwest on Blue Island Avenue, the most important thoroughfare in that section of the city, with a branch on Halsted from Harrison south to the river. Attached to it are trailers for Eighteenth and Twenty -first streets. Advice given regarding trailers in the preceding paragraph applies here. Cross-town horse-cars. There is a continuous car-track on Halsted Street from Lake Michigan to Auburn Park, north and south (not east and west). A visitor can by paying three fares travel the whole length of the ' ' backbone " of Chicago. North and south cars run on Paulina and Robey streets, on Western Avenue from Twenty-sixth Street to Armitage Avenue, on Kedzie Avenue from Twelfth Street to Madison, and a North Ashland Avenue car goes over Adams Street bridge. Horse-cars run to Garfield Park on Randolph and Lake streets, and from Lincoln Park to Humboldt Park on North Avenue. There are cross-town horse-cars running west from Lake Michigan on the Twelfth Street viaduct, on Twenty second Street, Twenty-sixth, Thirty-first, Thirty-fifth, Thirty-ninth, Forty-third and Root streets, Forty-seventh Street, and electric-cars on Sixty-first and Sixty-third streets from Englewood to the World's Fair. South cables. These are two distinct lines, one going south on State Street, the second on Wabash and Cottage Grove avenues, the latter avenue beginning at Twenty-second Street and running south. The loop of the State Street cable is east on Madison from State Street to Wabash Avenue, TRANSPOKTATION. 45 north on Wabash Avenue to Lake Street, west on Lake Street to State Street, south again on State Street. Grip-cars that are marked Sixty-third Street carry you to the former suburb of Englewood. The only trailers on State Street are Archer Avenue and Wallace, Hanover and Butler streets two in all. Visit- ors will be asked to take Ihis route to the World's Fair, and will lose but little time in so doing. The proper cars to take will be conspicuously marked. The direct World's Fair cable. This starts on Wabash Avenue, and has electric-car connections at Seventy-third Street, which reach South Chi- cago and Pullman, and at Sixty-first and Sixty-third streets, which reach the World's Fair. Its loop is east from Wabash on Madison, north on Michi- gan Avenue to Randolph, west on Randolph to Wabash, and south again on Wabash for the main trip. This cable-line forks at Fifty-fifth Street, and the left, or Jackson Park grips, go to Ihe northernmost gates of the Fair. The Sixty-first Street cars run east one block south of the Midway Plaisance, which contains many attractive features of the Fair. The Sixty-third Street cars carry passengers to the Sixty-second and Sixty-third Street entrances. By going west on these cars running on numbered streets to Wentworth Avenue and taking a transfer, you can ride back to town on a horse-car line which runs on Weutwcrth Avenue and Clark Street to Washington Street. Study the map and these directions carefully and you will be able to find your way with- out difficulty. At Fortieth Street the trains of the Van Burt n Street railway station can be had, with only a nickel fare. The Alley Elevated. This is the first road of its kind in Chicago. The northern terminus is at Congress Street just east of State; the southern within Jackson Park. The fare is 5 cents. The Illinois Central Suburban. On the Lake Front, at Van Buren Street, you will see wickets every few feet, little ticket-offices, and trains in waiting. For 10 cents you will be carried swiftly to the Fair Grounds. This is the most expeditious way to go. The return fare is also 10 cents. West Side cut-off. If you are stopping in the region of Douglas Park, or as far east as Wood Street near Twelfth, take a Belt train that runs from Austin to Jackson Park. There is a station at the Ogden Avenue viaduct. This brings the residents of that part of the West Side as near the Fair as are the people of the South Side. World's Fair Steamship Co. This company furnishes transportation to and from the Fair at the uniform price of 25 cents for round-trip tickets only. The northern terminus is at the large pier opposite Van Buren Street, reached by a viaduct over the railway-tracks. At the Fair fifty turnstiles leading to thirty compartments, each accommodating 1,000 passengers, afford access to and egress from the company's steamers, while fifty others give entrance to the grounds. The fleet consists of twenty-five vessels, the whale- back carrying 5,000 and the remainder from 1,000 to 3,000 passengers each. 46 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. From Adams Street North on Dearborn. The great height of many of the buildings included in the accompanying illustration is not apparent at a glance, that of the entire block in the right foreground varying from 100 to 140 feet. The Palnvjr House, farther to the right, was once, architecturally, the admiration of the West. Near the left foreground may be seen the Montauk Block, the first of Chicago's high steel buildings. In the scene are tho First National Bank, the largest financial institution in Chicago; the Tribune, and the Har;ford. Kinsley's famous restaurant is seen in the foreground, and the Honore Building, twice burned and restored, has been occupied by the Post Office, the Army, and the Union League Club. This square faces the Post Office on the north. also seen in another view, No. 7. The peculiarities and traditions of this great hotel are noted in our chapter on " Hotels." The main interior is of brick, steel, and tile, and it was the first fire-proof hotel in the West. The State Street front of 275 feet is elabo rate and impressive. The total frontages, besides the foregoing, are 300 feet on Monroe and 300 feet on Wabash Avenue. The main building is 9 stories or 100 feet high. There are 15 stores, 700 rooms, and 3 passenger ele- vators. It was common report in 1873 that this property cost $4,000,000. The rotunda and corridor are 106 feet long, 64 feet wide, and 36 feet high. There are some historical paintings to be seen. 6. The Adams Express Building, At 183-189 Dearborn Street, is probably the most imposing old-style structure in Chi- cago. Its outer walls are of the cyclopean thickness and weight that came in with the early steel buildings. Particularly notice- able is the magnificent granite arch at its portal. The lot is 100 feet wide and 130 feet deep. The building stands 140 feet high, with 10 stories and basement, and contains 3 stores, 223 offices, 3 elevators, and 700 in- habitants. It is occupied by heavy firms and companies, and has always maintained a first-class standing among tenants. It was erected in 1884, at a cost of $450,000. 7. The Commercial Bank Building:, At the southeast corner of Dearborn and Monroe streets, fronts 90 feet on Dearborn and 131 feet on Monroe, and is 100 feet high, with 6 stories and basement. The bank and security vaults occupy the first floor and basement; the upper floors are served by 2 passenger elevators. There are 100 offices, with 300 occupants, who are publishers, lawyers, agents, and insurance and real- estate men. The exterior is granite, brick, and steel, and presents an imposing appear- ance. The structure was erected in 1884, at a cost of $300,000. . 8. The Moutauk Building, At 115 Monroe Street, has a frontage of 90 1. The Quincy Building:, At the northeast corner of Clark and Adams streets, fronts 60 feet on Clark and 80 feet on Adams. It is 70 feet high, with 5 stories and basement. There are 45 offices and 1 elevator. The occupancy is miscellaneous, but largely professional. Erected in 1873. 2. The Kinsley Building, At 105-107 Adams Street, is a steel building 65 feet high, with 5 stories and basement The lot is 55 feet wide and 180 feet deep. This first-class refectory was erected in 1885, at a cost of *500,000. and is wholly occupied by Kinsley, the caterer and restaurateur. 3. The Honore Building, At the northwest corner of Dearborn and Adams streets, is occupied by the Marquette Hotel. It fronts 185 feet on Dearborn and 100 on Adams Street, is 65 feet high, and has 6 stories and basement, with 12 stores, 10 offices, and 300 rooms. There are 2 passen- ger elevators. The outer walls are possibly the most ornate that remain in Chicago, if we except the Palmer Houss. The model of thi ! building was completed in 1871, burned in 1871, rebuilt in 1872 with much salvage, and gutted by fire early in the eighties. 4. The Fair Buildings Occupy the half of a square on State, Adams, and Dearborn streets. The princi- pal structure is a high steel building. Its dimensions are as follows: Fronton Dear- born, 200 feet; depth, about 180 feet; height, 9 stories and basement. In the various buildings are 12 passenger elevators. There are 100 departments that is 100 different stocks of goods and 2,500 employes. The annual sales are $8,000,000 at retail. The Fair was established in 1875. by E. J. Leh- man. The new building was erected in 1891, and all of the extensive operations on this ground went forward without stopping or de- creasing the regular operations of the firm. 5. The Palmer House, Which is partly shown at the southeast cor- ner of State and Monroe streets, may be VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 47 48 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. feet and a depth of 180 feet. It is 130 feet high, in 10 stories, of steel construction, on heavy foundations, with thick walls. It has 150 offices, 300 occupants, and 2 passenger elevators. Erected in 1882, at a cost of $325,000; the first high steel building in Chicago. 9. The First National Bank Building, At the northwest corner of Dearborn and Monroe streets, occupies the site of the old Post Office Building. The building offers a spectacle of handsome proportions, combin- ing strength, durability, and great size. It is surrounded on all sides with light and air. Dimensions: On Dearborn Street, 192 feet to alley; on Monroe Street, 96 feet to alley; 100 feet high, with 6 stories and high base- ment. There are 3 elevators and 100 offices. It was erected in 1880, and is described among our notable high buildings. The bank inside is a fine sight. The remainder of the building is occupied by corporations, attor- neys, leading real-estate operators, pro- moters, and financial men generally. 1O. The Stock Exchange Building, At the northeast corner of Dearborn and Monroe streets, was erected in 1882, and remodeled at great cost in 1889. It is a very large brick structure, with 104 feet front on Dearborn and 120 feet on Monroe, 100 feet high, and 7 stories and low basement. It has 100 offices and 3 passenger elevators, and since its renovation has been a busy building. It is to lose the Stock Exchange, which goes to its new home at Washington and La Salle, but is the rendezvous of many financial men arid speculators. The fee of this entire city square is school property. 11. The Mentor Block, At the northeast corner of Monroe and State streets, fronts 26 feet on State and 80 feet on Monroe, 85 feet high, 7 stories. It was erected in 1873. 12. The Schlesinger & Mayer Building, At the southeast corner of State and Madi- son streets, fronts 200 feet on State and 80 on Madison. It is 75 feet high, with 7 stories and basement, and 2 passenger elevators. Here is one of the popular retail dry-goods stores, with annual sales of $5,000,000. There are 1,000 employes. The building, erected in 1873, has a conspicuous stone front. 13. The Evening- Journal Building, At 159-161 Dearborn Street, once boasted a beautiful fa9ade, but this was removed in 1889, when the structure was remodeled. The building has burned twice. It is 40 feet wide, 120 feet deep, and 80 high, with 7 stories. It is occupied by the Saratoga Hotel and the Journal, the oldest daily pub- lication in the West. 14. The Tribune Building: Fronts 120 feet on Madison Street and 72 feet on Dearborn, at tb,e- southeast corner. and stands beside McVicker's Theater. The first Tribune building was finished in 1869, and its walls were partly saved in the rebuild- ing of 1872, after the Great Fire. The type of the Tribune is set on the upper or fifth floor; the editorial rooms are on the fourth and fifth; the presses are in the basement, and the counting-room occupies the main portion of the lower floor. Tenants of vari- ous professions fill the 3 stores and S!0 offices which remain for rent to the public. The 5 stories and basement are 65 feet high from the sidewalk. John McDevitt, the billiard champion, was burned to death under the sidewalk on the Madison side October 10, 1871. 15. The Hartford Building: Is a steel sky-scraper, with 92 feet on Dear- born Street and 50 feet on Madison Street, at the southwest corner. Its 14 stories carry it 165 feet high, and its skeleton construc- tion leaves no weight on the outer walls, which are light. It has 4 ele> ators and 260 offices and banking quarters; among the occupants are the Chemical National Bank. Real-estate and loan agents and financial corporations gather here. This, the tallest building in the scene, was erected during the busy year 1892. 16. The Inter Ocean Building: Is nearly concealed behind the Hartford, at the northwest corner of Madison and Dearborn streets. A steel building on a very small lot rises at the corner, and this lot brought the highest price per square foot that has yet been paid for Chicago real estate. The entire premises front 100 feet on Madison and 50 on Dearborn. The old stone-front was erected in 1873. The steel corner building was built in 1889, when the entire ulterior was remodeled. There are 2 elevators and 75 offices for the public, with a handsome interior covered court. The portion occupied by the newspaper corre- sponds with that of the Tribune in its building. 17. The Union Trust & Savings Bank Building Fronts 50 feet on Madison Street and 75 feet on Dearborn, at the northeast corner, and is 60 feet high, with 5 stories and base- ment. This is a handsome building of the old style, intended for bankers and profes- sional men. It has 3 stores, 25 offices, and 1 elevator. The bank occupies the corner room. Edison's phonograph was first pub- licly exhibited in the West in this room. Erected in 1876. 18. The A. C. McClurgr Building Fronts 150 feet on Madison Street and 72 feet on Wabash Avenue, at the northwest corner. It is a brick block 75 feet high, with 6 stories and basement. It was erected in 1873, and contains one of the largest book- stores ia the country. TRANSPORTATION. 49 Suburban trains. Every one of the seven railway stations is the terminal of suburban trains. Besides (1) the Illinois Central, which collected 15,000,000 fares a year before the Exposition, there are (2) the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy trains to Riverside and Aurora; (8) the North- Western trains to Elgin, Desplaines, and Waukegan, and beyond ; (4) the Chicago & Northern Pacific trains to Franklin Park; (5) the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul trains to Evanston and Galewood ; (6) the Chicago & Eastern Illinois trains to Momence ; and many others which the map will show, our only object being to direct casual attention to that manner of getting away temporarily from the city. West Side Elevated roads. A line has been building for many years on Lake Street, and another company is buying a right-of-way near Van Buren Street westward, and southward near Paulina Street. Parmelee's omnibuses. As your train nears Chicago, an agent, bearing on his arm a large ring filled with leather straps and brass checks, enters the car and inquires if you want your baggage transferred to any other station or taken to any hotel, or if you wish to be taken to either place. If you pay him 50 cents he will give you an omnibus ticket and a check which will identify your trunk at the destination to which he will see that you are carried. You are to give him your baggage-check. At the station a bus will be in readiness. Do not be afraid to surrender your baggage-check to him, but you must be able to tell him exactly where you wish to be taken. Should you wish your baggage transferred to any point outside the business center (not exceed- ing five miles), the agent will, upon payment of 50 cents, give you a delivery check, and insure its prompt delivery. To points over five miles from the Court House, an additional charge of 25 cents is made for each separate piece. HOTELS. When it was announced, months ago, that the late Col. Elliot Shepard of New York City had engaged accommodations for the summer of 1893, at the Auditorium Hotel in Chicago, which would cost him $25,000, people were enabled to form an idea of the luxury of modern hotel conveniences, and of the animated competition there would be among the wealthy of all nations for the best quarters during the World's Fair. But a great hotel is much more than a place to eat and sleep in. Its lobby is the people's club, men meet to settle political and commercial questions of vast importance. It can not fail to entertain and instruct the reader if we tarry a moment among the great hotels of Chicago, in order to note some special features for which they are justly distinguished, and we shall begin, taking them in alphabetical order, with The Auditorium. In 1887 Ferdinand W. Peck, a very wealthy citizen, induced a number of other public-spirited Chicagoans to unite wjth him to erect in Chicago the largest theater in the world. Under the same roof with that theater is a hotel of 400 rooms. The Auditorium, dedicated by the President of the United States and Adelina Patti, at Christmas, 1889, became the admiration of the world. The hotel at once took a place second to none, and its sumptuous apartments are always occupied by celebrated travelers and visitors. So marked has been the success of this hotel, that an extension has been built across the street, connected with it by tunnels under Congress Street. For permission to construct and use them the hotel company pays the city a rental of $1,000 a year. The position of this hotel, on the finest street in the _New World , on the Great Lake, and in the heart of the city, has given it advan- tages which its proprietors have not been slow to improve. Its banquet-hall is very handsome. The cafe is renowned for its fine cooking, and the hotel has the large number of 200 rooms with marble baths attached. In the finish- ing of this house, the use of onyx and porphyry has been carried to perfection, and the sight-seer should pay the office a visit and examine its beautiful decorations. The dining-hall and kitchen have been put at the top of the hotel, so that there can be no culinary odors on the lower floors, and here one may eat at an enormous height above the lake. The tower of the Auditorium is 270 feet high, and for a fee of 25 cents you can take the elevator to the top. On a clear day the limits of the city may be seen, and the shores of Michi- gan and Indiana are visible. The Signal Weather Bureau officer for Chicago has his headquarters in this tower. The Briggs House, at the corner of Randolph and Fifth Avenue, was one of the leading hotels of curlier days. Before the fire it had much the sam (50) HOTELS. 51 reputation that the Richelieu and the Virginia have now. Although rebuilt in 1872 with much larger dimensions, its reputation sank for twenty years. At last, in 1892, it came into the hands of William M. Knight, who, after a thorough overhauling, converted it into a high-class hostelry, with all the con- veniences of modern life. The Briggs House, thus restored to first-class rank, offers, like the Sherman House, an uncommon advantage to persons wishing to visit on the West and North sides. Trains for all the West Side parks may be taken at the door, and Lincoln Park cables pass but one block east. The Clifton House, northwest corner of Wabash Avenue and Monroe Street, ranks among Chicago's most popular and nourishing hotels. Since the Great Fire the proper! y has been improved in every way, the new Clifton being notable for luxuriousness and comfort in all its appointments. The building is six stories in height, solidly constructed, and provided with accommodation for 500 guests. Its present well-known management enjoys an established and deserved patronage. The Commercial Hotel is famous for its low rates and its long lists of daily arrivals. Its patronage is such that more guests come and go from its rooms and tables than from any other hotel of its size in the city. Its proprietor is Charles W. Dabb, formerly chief clerk of the Palmer House. Thus he inherited some of the commercial patronage of the Palmer. Another feature of the Commercial is the fact that juries in many of the more-cele- brated criminal trials have been quartered here. The Grand Pacific Hotel. There are some structures so well conceived that modern invention or change does not destroy their beauty and utility. Thus the Grand Pacific, standing at the doors of the Board of Trade, its own portals almost opening into the parlor cars of the Lake Shore and Rock Island railways, surrounded by the steel constructions of the eighties, while it remains the stone colossus of the seventies, is in some respects unrivaled among Chicago hotels. Why? Because of its vast lobbies and corridors where enormous crowds of people can move about with ease. This building, which cost over a million, stands on land the western half of which belongs to the Northwestern University at Evanston. In 1870 it was leased for ninety- nine years, at a revaluation for every five years. Another notable fact in the history of this hotel is, it has been twice built on the same plan. The first structure was burned the morning of October 9, 1871, about 7 o'clock. It was rebuilt, and its completion was celebrated by the June jubilee in the Van Buren Street station in 1873, which was promoted by Henry W. Smith, at one time managing editor of the Tribune. The Grand Pacific has been fampus for two things. It has always been Republican headquarters that is, Republican politicians of this and other States have given it the preference, and its club- rooms have witnessed many eventful political gatherings. The scenes at this hotel during a national convention and we may perhaps mention the Grant- 62 HOTELS. Garfield-Blaine contest of 1880 as an example were of unequaled interest and excitement. It has, in the second place, always been a hotel for railroad men. The ticket-offices are all near by. Because this hotel is not ten stories high, no one must imagine that it has not eagerly seized upon every improve- ment of the age. Great surfaces of marble flooring, wainscoting, ceiling, shining brass; electric appliances of all kinds; an army of help; a celebrated cafe", and a popular table d'hote, or dinner for business men; luxurious chairs, even for the chance visitor; 38,000 yards of rich carpets; halls that are parlors, and parlors that are adequate for the receptions given by national celebrities these are some of the noteworthy features. The Grand Pacific covers an acre and a half of ground, with 1,000 feet of frontage, and 600 rooms; and detailed statistics regarding lights, annunciators, speaking-tubes, shops, etc., would fill two pages. We may say of it, truly, that for twenty years it has answered the purposes in Chicago of a European "arcade" or "passage/' and in inclement weather it becomes an indoor city. The marked success of this popular house is due to Messrs. Drake, Parker & Co., whose management has long rendered it the favorite resort of thousands of Americans and Europeans. The Great Northern. This hotel covers a quarter of a block and is sixteen stories high. The electric lights which blaze so brilliantly from its lofty summit, and which catch the eye and excite the amazement of every visitor, are but one of the many objects of interest connected with this hotel. The sumptuous marble cafe, the golden electric lusters on the top ceiling, the brocaded velvets, the Roman and Pompeian mosaic, the glittering brasses, and the delicate potteries deserve careful examination. The Great Northern stands on Jackson at Dearborn. It makes Jackson with the Grand Pacific, Grace, "Wellington, and Lelaud a famous street of hotels. The Hotel Metropole, a handsome fire-proof structure of pressed brick and brownstone, is situated on the southwest corner of Michigan Avenue and Twenty-third Street. The interior decorations and furnishings are very recherche, and its patronage is of a high order. This hotel was opened to the public in the fall of 1892, since which time its business has been phenomenal. Both the American and European plans have been adopted by its proprietors, The Metropole Hotel Co., with rates ranging $4 and upward per day. The Hotel Woodruff, on the southeast corner of Wabash Avenue and Twenty-first Street, has been a noted family hotel for many years. It has all modern conveniences, is admirably located, and enjoys a good reputa- tion as regards cuisine and management. It is run exclusively on the American plan, the rates varying from $3 to $5 per day. J. W. Boardman & Co., who were the proprietors for nearly twenty years, were succeeded by The E. 8. Douglass Co. on September 15th of last year. The Leland Hotel. This Lake Front hotel has been brought to great prominence within ten years by Warren F. Leland, a member of the most-cele- HOTELS. 53 brated family of hotel men that America has produced. The Leland (ouce the Gardner House) stands at the corner of Jackson Street and Michigan Boule- vard. Starting from here you can drive on a fine macadam pavement eight miles south, nearly in a straight line. No traffic wagons can go on a boule- vard. For years, in the cafe, a table d'hote dinner has been served for a dollar a plate (with wine at 25 cents a bottle extra) that has had no equal in the city for the price. Music has been a feature of the house. It has an artesian well, an excellent cuisine, and many specimens of fine work in marble and brass that can not be praised too highly. Its wide front has always been a favorite place for the enjoyment of the lake breeze in hot weather, and the founder of the Lelaud is celebrated as one of the men who fought bravely to preserve the Lake Front Park for his city. The Lexington Hotel, one of the largest and most magnificently fur- nished hotels in America, is admirably situated on the northeast corner of Michigan Avenue and Twenty-second Street. The building, constructed of steel, is thoroughly fire-proof, with a massive-looking exterior of dark pressed brick, brownstone, and terra cotta. There are 400 guest-rooms, 250 of which are connected with private baths; 3 passenger elevators, and every modern convenience. The main entrance is from Michigan Avenue, and opens into a \\ide vestibule leading to the rotunda, 68x50 feet in size, the floors of which are mosaic and the wainscotings of variegated African marble. The main parlors are located in the southwest corner of the second floor. The first, or "drawing-room," is beautifully decorated in the Renaissance style, with tints of gold and cream color. This room has a magnificent onyx mantel of grand proportions, costing $1,000, and the walls are hung with silk tapes- tries of exquisite design and workmanship. The middle parlor is finished in the rococo style, and the one adjoining in the style of Louis XIV., the general tone being a delicate buff. Adorning the wall of the main dining- room is a large oil-painting of the Battle of Lexington by a celebrated English artist. Accommodations on cither the American or European plan may be secured at rates from $4 to $25 per day. This hotel was opened on September 1, 1892, by Mr. Bacheldor, and its guests are from the very elite of this and other cities. The Massasoit House has been in the same place for thirty-five years at the southwest corner of Central Avenue and South Water Street, along- side the old Illinois Central Depot at the foot of Lake Street. It was built in 1857 .by David A. Gage and his brother. The Palmer House occupies much of the ground bounded by Monroe, Wabash, State, and Adams. Gradual additions have been made in the blocks on Wabash Avenue, until the corridors of the Palmer extend long distances from the elevators. Before the fire of 1871, this hotel stood at the northwest corner of State and Quincy streets, and was the tallest building in the city. VIEWS OF CHICAGO. North from East Adams Street. The scene laid before the eye on the opposite page has for its features the Lake Front, the Metropolitan Business College, the high steel building of the Athletic Club, and the Palmer House, at the southeast corner of Monroe and State streets, also portrayed on another page, and there described. Great wholesale and retail shops abound in this region, and many art-stores may be found along Wabash Avenue. Hidden behind the tallest building in the picture is the new steel structure of the Western Bank Note Company, where the Whist Club has its quarters. A highly attractive detail of the view here represented is the portion of Lake Front Park, commanding an unobstructed survey of Lake Michigan, which at early morning or in the afternoon light presents a charming perspective. 1. The "Leader Building, At the northeast corner of State and Adams streets, has 34 departments or lines of busi- ness, with 475 employes. The building is an old-style stone-front, erected in 1873, front- ing 140 feet on State and 120 on Adams Street, 4 stories and basement, or 55 feet high, with 2 passenger elevators for the public. 2. The Qibbs Building, At the northwest corner of Wabash Avenue and Adams Street, was erected in 1874. It has frontages of 90 feet on Adams Street and 40 feet on Wabash Avenue. It is higher than the Leader Building (85 feet), having 5 stories and basement, and is occupied by music- sellers, wholesale jewelers, and manufactur- ers 1 agents. There is an elevator. 3. The A. H. Revel! Building, Northeast corner of Wabash Avenue and Adams Street. This edifice, which now pre- sents within an appearance so distinguished, has had an eventful history for years past. It was once filled with a retail stock of dry goods by Gage Brothers, and later by Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co. ; it stood vacant at the time of the Siegel-Cooper fire in September, 1891, and that firm moved in and occupied it while the Leiter Building was finishing at Van Buren and State, and at last Revell placed it among the sights of Chicago. This 6-story structure is a stone-front of 1873, modern- ized by Revell in 1891, 100 feet on Wabash Avenue, 160 on Adams, 75 feet high, with 2 passenger and 3 freight elevators. 4:. The Hotel Brunswick Has an enviable frontage directly at the commencement of the famous lake shore facades of Michigan Boulevard. It is oppo- site the Pullman Building, being situated at the northwest corner of Adams Street, with 100 feet on Adams and 40 feet on the boule- vard. The structure, which is of the later period (built in 1883), has 6 stories and base- ment, 85 feet high, 100 rooms. 2 stores, and a passenger elevator. The walls are of brick, iron, and terra cotta. The house is kept on the American plan. 5. The "Williams Building Is diagonally opposite, at the southeast cor- ner of Monroe Street and Wabash Avenue. Here is the wholesale millinery-store of Edson Keith & Co., one of the largest in the world, which all women visitors should see, and Lyon, Potter & Co. 's music-house. The building stretche i along no less than 160 feet on Wabash Avenue and 180 on Monroe Street, with 5 stories, 75 feet high, 3 passen- ger elevators and 2 freight elevators. The style is that of 1873, with considerable ele- gance of exterior. 6. The Clifton House. At the northwest corner of Wabash Avenue and Monroe Street. Here stands one of the oldest of the family hotels, noted, under various managements, for the elegance of its belongings and the exclusive quality of its family guests. Vast sums have several times been expended on the furnishings of the Clifton. The building, has 160 feet on Monroe Street aud 80 on Wabash Avenue. It is 75 feet high, with 6 stories and b.ase- ment, 155 rooms, and 6 stores. There are 2 elevators. The style is that of 1873. 7. The Powers Building Rises to 7 stories at the northwest corner of Michigan Boulevard and Monroe Street, and presents some beautiful little shops on each thoroughfare. While it has 172 feet ou Monroe, there are only 38 feet on the boule- vard. The building is 100 feet high, in 7 stories, and has the Metropolitan Business College for its principal tenant, along with wholesale jewelers, tailors, and small shop- keepers. There are 2 elevators. The con- struction is that of the year 1890, stone, VIEWS OF CHICAGO. VIEWS OF CHICAGO. steel, brick, and terra cotta, at a cost of $200,000. (See " Notable High Buildings.") 8. The Chicago Fire Cyclorama. At 127-132 Michigan Avenue, receives some description and comment in our chapter on "Amusements." The building was erected in 1892, and occupies a lot 120 feet wide by 180 feet deep. The height is 60 feet. It is said that 144,000 people view the circular painting each year. 9. The Chicago Athletic Association's Building Is conspicuous in our drawing, and has a his- tory singular among all the genuine steel buildings so far built in the world. No "sooner was the colossal structure under roof than, on October 31, 1892, fire damaged it to the extent of $200,000. It stands at 124-126 Michigan Avenue, 80 feet front, 172 feet deep, 165 feet high, 10 stories and basement, and boasts the largest number of athletic con- veniences that nave been arranged together. The architecture follows the order set down in our chapter on " Steel Construction," or the description of Rand-McNally's in the chapter on " Notable High Buildings." It cost $600,000, and was repaired and finished in 1893. 1O. The^fContinental Hotel, Southeast cftrner of Wabash Avenue and Madison Street, carries us to the end of the picture, and to a building which was once the home of the Chicago Public Library ; and here Librarian Hild began as a lad to learn his profession. The store-rooms are occu- pierf by the Woman's Exchange and a large millinery establishment. The building is a stone-front of 1873, 120 feet on Madison Street, 100 feet on Wabash Avenue, 60 feet high, 4 stories, 150 rooms, 3 stores, and 1 elevator. ART INSTITUTE, MICHIGAN BOULEVARD, BETWEEN MONROE AND ADAMS STREETS. HOTELS. 57 It was rebuilt on its present site, and lias always ranked as one of the first-class hotels of the world. Two of its distinguishing features are, in part, that it has always been Democratic headquarters and the favorite of commercial travelers. Its lobbies have always been attractive rather for their beauty than their size, but its grand State Street portico, and its architecture generally, are quite striking. It holds its own among the new buildings, both for external beauty and convenience of interior arrangements. Tine entresol, or gallery floor, and the. writing-room under skylight in the rotunda, are features that have commended this hotel strongly to its patrons. The dining-halls have always ranked among the handsomest in Chicago, and the parlors, "bridal-chambers," halls, and many suites of rooms have exhausted the resources of French and American ho use- furnishing art. The Palmer House has always been a famous banqueting-place, and many societies, such as the religious unions and State societies, give their_dinners there. The proprietor of this hotel, Potter Palmer, is one of the wealthiest of Chicagoans, and resides on the Lake Shore Drive, just south of Lincoln Park, in a house that probably stands unique among American mansions, having many of the characteristics of a medieval castle. Mrs. Potter Palmer, President of the Board of Lady Managers of the World's Fair, has, by a generous use of her home, wealth, and talent, given an extraordinary and world-wide impetus to the ambition of women to be repre- sented in the industrial progress of nations. The Palmer and Grand Pacific have been the two hotels most talked about since the fire, as the Sherman and Tremont were in the mouths of every townsman before the fire. The Palmer was the first iron-built inn west of the Alleganies, and for years its 700 rooms, nine stories, and roof conservatory were the marvels of the Northwest. The Revere House American and European plans stood first on the southeast corner of Randolph and Dearborn streets, where it was succeeded by the McCormick Block. The hotel was then built on North Clark Street, at the corner of Kiuzie, and was again succeeded by a McCormick block. It was next built a half-block farther north, on Michigan Strei t. The Richelieu is located as advantageously as the Auditorium, and is on the Lake Front near Jackson. It is small, its rates are very high, and its service is such as to appeal strongly to epicures. It belongs to the same class as the Wellington, and appeals to a special clientele. The cafe" is justly famous, and the chef de cuisine, or chief cook, has a high reputation for culin- ary ability. The proprietor of the Richelieu will conduct his guest to a suite of two parlors overlooking Lake Michigan, on the third floor. There will be three bay-windows, bed-room, dressing-room, and closets. Upright beds con- vert the chamber into a third parlor in the daytime, and rich carpetings, hangings, rugs, pictures, couches, seats, ottomans, and musical instruments give the rooms an air of luxurious comfort. For these quarters the guest will pay $17 a day, and the landlord will tell you with some truth that similar 58 HOTELS. apartments in New York City would cost $50 a day. A guest may obtain good sleeping-quarters in the same hotel for $3 a night. The Sherman House, at the northwest corner of Clark and Randolph, has been the Sherman House for sixty years. Before the fire it was one of the largest and best-looking buildings in the city, and elegant as was its appearance then, its exterior was elaborated and enhanced in beauty in rebuilding, until it is the handsomest specimen of the Mansard style in the city. The Sherman has become a house for merchants and theatrical people. Ancient and honorable societies cling fondly to its grand memories, and here hold their annual banquets and balls. Here Long John Wcntworth spent the last years of his life. Here Lincoln, Douglas, Andrew Johnson, Grant, Weston the walker, Parepa Rosa, Booth, Caroline Richings, and many others of note have been guests. The house is first-class, comfortable, moderate in its charges, and is very convenient for people having North and West Side connections. Stepping to the end of the block, the guest may lake a cable- car for either Lincoln, Humboldt, Garfield, or Douglas Park, as two cable systems meet on the corner of Randolph and La Salle streets. J. Irving Pearce, a typical American host, is the proprietor. The Sherman House is one of the two great resorts of chess-players, the other being the Tremont. The Southern Hotel was opened in the spring of 1875 by Mr. E. A. Bacheldor, now of the Lexington. It faces on Wabash Avenue and Twenty- second Street, and has every possible convenience. Messrs. Cropper, Tucker & Young assumed control of this hotel on January 15, 1893, since which time it has been conducted on both the American and European plans. The Tremont House was one of the famous hotels in early days. It stands on the southeast corner of Lake and Dearborn streets, and has been three times destroyed by fire. John B. Drake went from this house to the Grand Pacific. Since the fire of 1871 the Tremont has been a favorite resort of families of means, who have been attracted by the fact that though in the heart of the city there is so little noise and confusion. The hotel contains 250 rooms. Chess has flourished in the Tremont House Block. The Victoria. This is one of the Lake Front hotels, and has its fame yet to make. It caters to English tastes, and is favorably situated to lay out a campaign to please the public. It is on the Lake Front at the corner of Michigan Avenue and Van Bureu Street, and has a first-class cafe". The Wellington is the successor of the Matteson House. After remaining vacant for four years, it was completely remodeled and opened as an ultra- fashionable resort. A good caf6 in connection with the house has promoted the success of the plans of its proprietors, and the situation Wabash Avenue and Jackson Street is a good one to attract patronage from the Auditorium during the season of opera and other entertainments. HOTELS. 59 HOTELS BEFORE THE GREAT FIRE. Besides the Sherman, Tremont, Briggs, and Matteson houses, of which we speak in this chapter, it may not be uninteresting to mention some of the ancient hotels which are no longer in existence-. The Adams House stood at the northeast corner of Lake Street and Mich- igan Avenue. It just escaped the fire of January, 1867, and perished in the Great Fire. It was not a famous house in its latter days. It stood on the site of the first flouriug-mills in Chicago. The Bigelow House. This was the name given to a grand hotel that was never kept, but should not be omitted. It was built at the southwest corner of Dearborn and Adams streets (Post Office lot), and cost $225,000. No expense was spared in furnishing it, and after an outlay of $200.000 more, the 9th of October, 1871, was set for its opening. As that fatal day dawned it was in flames, and Ben H. Skinner, its lessee, was completely ruined. The land was then sold to the Government at a price which was thought then very high, but which is not a tithe of its present value. The City Hotel stood at the southeast corner of Lake and State streets. It was built of brick, three stories high, in 1348, on the site of a former inn (wooden) of the same name. It presented broad fronts on both the Lake and State sides, and was largely patronized by commercial people. The Garden City Hotel was situated on Madison Street at the northeast corner of Market, on the lot long afterward covered by a building used by Marshall Field & Co. as a wholesale house. The Metropolitan Hotel was a large building on the southwest corner of Randolph Street and Fifth Avenue (Wells Street). It had a singular history. Isaac Speer, a wealthy jeweler at 77 Lake, grew poor, and his head man, How- gate, was discovered to have stolen enough to erect the Metropolitan. Howgate was brought to trial, and Mr. Speer was given the hotel. This building was at least five stories high, and nearly as large as the old Sherman House. The Richmond House stood in a place from which the commission men at last ousted it namely, on the north side of South Water Street, far east, near the Illinois Central Depot. It was built in 1856 by Thomas Richmond, a vessel-owner, and half a dozen fortunes were lost here, the house being closed before the fire. The Prince of Wales stopped there when in Chicago. In conclusion. The hotels which we have not here noticed at length are of more recent date or have less memorable historic associations, and this is specially the case with the Saratoga, Windsor, McCoy's, Brevoort, Gore's, Grace, Merchants', etc. they are stopping-places where the traveler will receive good accommodations at reasonable rates. 60 HOTELS. LOCATION OF DEPOTS AND HOTELS. Our map and index pages which follow show with clearness and fidelity the twenty-five railroads entering the city, with the location of their respective depots, together with that of sixty-three hotels situated in or near the business district. An additional list includes hotels in various parts of the city outside of that district. RAILROADS. 6 Atchlson, Topeka & Santa Fe. 7 Baltimore & Ohio. 3 Chicago, Burlington & Quincy. 7 Chicago Central. 7. Chicago Great Western. 3 Chicago. Milwaukee & St. Paul. 4 Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific. 3 Chicago & Alton. 6 Chicago & Eastern Illinois. 6 Chicago & Erie. 6 Chicago & Grand Trunk. 7 Chicago & Northern Pacific (Wis. Cent). 2 Chicago & North -Western. 7 Chicago & South-western. 6 Chicago & Western Indiana. 8 Chicago & West Michigan. 8 Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago & St. Louis (Kankakee Line). 8 Illinois Central. 4 Lake Shore & Michigan Southern. 6 Louisville, New Albany & Chicago. 8 Michigan Central. 9 New York, Chicago & St. Louis. 3 Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Chicago & St. Louis. 3 Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago. 6 Wabash. HOTELS. (Hotel rates given were quoted the publishers in January, 1893.) 1 Atlantic Hotel (American), Van Burcn and Sherman, 1-14.* Kates 82.00 to 84.00. 2 Auditorium Hotel (American), Congress and Michigan Avenue, N-14. Kates 85.00 to $20.00. 3 Auditorium Hotel (European), Congress and Michigan Avenue, N-15. Kates 85.00 to $20.00. 4 Bradford Hotel (American), 30-32 Wells, 14. Kates $1.25 to 82.00. 5 Briggs House (American), Randolph and Fifth Avenue, 1-7. Rates $2.50 to $3.50. 6 Brown's Hotel (American), Van Buren and State, L-14. Rates $1.50 to $2.50. 7 Brunswick Hotel (American), Adams and Michigan Avenue, N-ll. Rates $2.50 to $4.00. 8 Burke's Hotel (European), 140-142 Madison, J-10. Rates *1.00 to 82.50. 9 Clifton House (American), Wabash Avenue and Monroe, M-10. Rates 82.50 to $3.50. 1 Commercial Hotel (American), Lake and Dearborn, K-6. Rates $2.00 to $3.00. 11 Continental Hotel (American), Wabash Avenue and Madison, N-10. Rates 82.00 to $3.00. 12 Crescent Hotel (American), Fifth Avenue and Harrison, 1-15. Rates $1.50 to $2.50. 13 Bowling House (European), 137 Canal, D-ll. Rate $2.00. 14 Gault House (American), Madison and Clinton, D-9. Rates *2.00 to $3.00. 15 Germania House (European). 180-182 Randolph, 1-8. Rates 81.00 to $2.00. (German.) 16 Goldston's Hotel (American), 284-283 Wabash Avenue, N-14. Rates $2.00 to $3.00. (Jewish.) 17 Gore's Hotel (European), 266-274 Clark, J-13. Rates $1.00 to. ?3 00. 18 Granada Hotel (European and American), Rush and Ohio, N-l. (Private and high-priced ) 19 Grand Central Hotel (European), Madison and Canal, D-9. Rates 75c to $1.50. 20 Grand Central Station (European), cor. Harrison and Fifth Avenue, H-16. Rates $2.00 to $10.00. 21 Grand Pacific Hotel (American and European), Clark and Jackson, J-12. Rates $3.00 to 815.00. 22 Grand Palace Hotel (European), 81-103 N. Clark, J-2. Rates 81.00 to $3.00. 23 Grand Union Hotel (European), 148-156 Dearborn, K-10. Rates 81.00 to $2.50. 24 Great Northern Hotel (European), Jack.,ou and Dearborn, L-12. Rates $2 00 to $8.00. 25 Hamburg House (American), 184-186 Randolph, 1-8. Rates $1.50 to $2.50. (German.) 26 Hotel Bordeaux (European), 339 Michigan Avenue, N-19. Rates 82.50 to 85.00. _JbaL A W"OBrt 1- if l a A |j--| | u 1| ,,, 1 3V AV J ^*J^_ CUSTOM HOUSE AN DM 2 9 POST OFFICE I " iaan ItfltEFtlliKlVI 62 HOTELS. 27 Hotel Brevoort (European), 143-145 Madison, J-9. Rates tl.OO to $3.00. #8 Hotel Brewster (European), corner Dearborn and Van Buren, K-14. Rates 75c to $2.00. 29 Hotel Cortland (American), 16-22 Adams, N-12. Rates $2.00 to $3.00. 30 Hotel Grace (European), Clark and Jackson, K-13. Rates $1.00 to $3.00. 31 Hotel Henricl (European), 70-72 Randolph, L-8. Rates 75c to $2.00. 32 Hotel Imperial (European), Twelfth and Michigan Avenue, O-20. Rates $3.00 to $15.00 33 Hotel La Fayette (American), Desplaines and Madison, B-9. Rates $2.00 to $3.00. 34 Hotel Lansing (European), 133-135 Adams, J-ll. Rates $1.00 to $2.50. 35 Hotel Le Grand (American), 35-45 "Wells, H-3. Rates $1.75 to $3.00. 36 Hotel Midland (European), 167-169 Madison, 1-9. Rates $1.00 to $3.00. 37 Hotel Queen (European), Harrison and "Wabash Avenue, N-16. Rates 75c to $2.00. 38 Hotel Stamford (European), Thirteenth and Michigan Avenue, N-20. Rates $2.50 to $5.00. 39 Kuhn'g Hotel (European), 165-169 Clark, K-10. Rates $1.00 to $3.00. 40 Leland Hotel (American), Michigan Avenue and Jackson, N-13. Rates $3.00 to $10.00. 41 McCoy's Hotel (European), Van Bureu and Clark, J-13. Rates $1.00 to $3.00. 42 McEwan's Hotel (European), 81-95 W. Madison, B-9. Rates 75c to $1.50. 43 Madison House (European), 164-166 Madison, 1-10. Rates 75c to $1.50. 44 Msrquette Hotel (European), Adams and Dearborn, K-ll. Rates $1.00 to $3.00. 45 Merchants' Hotel (European), Lake and Clark, J-6. Rates 75c to $1.50. 46 Xeefs Hotel (European), Michigan and Wells, 1-3. Rates 75c to $2.00. (German and French.) 47 Niagara Hotel (European), Jackson bet. Michigan and Wabash avenues, N-13. Rate $1.00. 48 Nicollet Hotel (European), Fifth Avenue and Randolph, 1-8. Rates 75c to $1.50 49 Ogden House (American), Franklin and Washington, G-8. Rates $1.25 to $2.00. 50 Old Metropolitan Hotel (American), Randolph and Fifth Avenue, H-8. Rates $1.25 to $2.00. 51 Oxford Hotel (American), Canal and Adams, D-12. Rates $2.00 to $3.00. 52 Palmer House (American), Monroe and State, M-ll. Rates $3.00 to $15.00. 53. Revere House (American), Clark and Michigan, K-3. Rates $2.50 to $4.00. 54 Richelieu Hotel (European), Michigan Avenue near Jackson, K-13. Rates $3.00 to $17.00. 55 Saratoga Hotel (European), 155-161 Dearborn, L-10. Rate $1.00. 56 Sherman House (American), Clark and Randolph, J-7. Rates $3.50 to $6.00. 57 Tremont House (American), Lake and Dearborn, L-7. Rates $3.00 to $5.00. 58 Victoria Hotel (American), Van Buren and Michigan Avenue, N-13. Rates $4.00 to $8.00. 59 Virginia Hotel (American), Rush and Ohio, N-l. (Private and high-priced.) 60 Washington Hotel (European), Madison and Canal, E-9. Rates 75c to $1.50. 61 Wellington Hotel (European) , Wabash Avenue and Jackson, N-12. Rates $3.00 to $15.00. 62 Windsor Hotel (European), 145-153 Dearborn, L-10. Rates $1.00 to $2.50. 63 Wood's Hotel (American), Van Buren and Wabash Avenue, N-14. Rates $2.00 to $3.00. HOTELS OUTSIDE THE BUSINESS DISTRICT. Alabama Hotel (American and European), Bowen and Berkley avenues. Rates $2.50 to $3.50. Alhambra Hotel (American), State and Archer Avenue. Rates $2.50 to $3.50. Alvard (American), Oakwood Boulevard and Cottage Grove Avenue. Rates $2.00. Barrett House (American and European), Cottage Grove and Bowen avenues. Rates $3.00 to $5.00. Chicago Beach Hotel, Fifty-first and East End Avenue. Rates $4.00 to $15.00. Chicago View (European), Madison and Ogden Avenue. Rates $1.50 to $5.00. Clarendon Hotel (American), Clark and Ontario. Rates $2.50 to $4.00. Columbia Hotel (American and European), Thirty-first and State. Rates $2.00 to $4.00. Erie Hotel (European), Erie and State. Rates $2.00 to $3.50. Farwell House (American), Halsted and Jackson. Rates $2.00 to $3.50. Hotel America (European), 1 169 Michigan Boulevard. Rates $3.50 to $5.00. (Spanish.) Hotel Concord (American), 1835 to 1S40 Wabash Avenue. Rates $2.00 to $4.00. Hotel Delavan (European), Ontario and Clark. Rates $1.00 to $2.50. Hotel De Soto (European), Wabash Avenue anil Thirty-seventh. Rate $2.00. Hotel Drexel (American), 3956 Drexel Boulevard. Rates $2.00 to $4.00. Hotel Everett (American), 3619 Lake Avenue. Rate $2.50. HOTELS. 63 Hotel Genoa (European), 5311-15 Lake Avenue. Rates $1.50 to $5.00. Hotel Gresham (European and American), 2246 Wabash Avenue. Rates $1.50 to $3.00. Hotel Helene (European and American), 108 to 114 Fifty -third. Rates $1.50 to $3.00. Hotel Holland (American and European), Fifty-third and Lake Avenue. Rates $2.50 to $4.00. Hotel La Vita (American), 213 Dearborn Avenue. Rates $3.00 to $5.00. Hotel Metropole (American and European), Twenty-third and Michigan Ave. Rates $4.00 to $15.00. Hotel Quintet (American), 328 to 336 Washington Boulevard. Rates $1.50 to $2.50. Hotel Stockholm (European), 54 and 56 Chicago Avenue. Rates 75c. to $1.50. (Swedish.) Hotel Svea (American), 129 to 133 East Chicago Avenue. Rates $1.50 to $2.00. (Swedish.) Hotel Vendome (American), Centre and North Park avenues. Rates $2.00 to $4.00. Hotel Willard (American), Eighteenth and Wabash Avenue. Rates $2.50 to $3.50. Hotel Woodruff (American), 2103 Wabash Avenue. Rates $2 50 to $5.00. Hotel Worth (American), Washington Boulevard, near Ada. Rates $1.50 to $3.00. Hyde Park Hotel (American), Fifty-first and Lake Avenue. Rates $3.00 to $8.00. Julien Hotel (American), Sixty-third and Stewart Avenue. Rates $3.00 to $6.00. Lakota Hotel (American and European), Michigan Avenue and Thirtieth. Rates $3.00 to $5.00. Lexington Hotel (American), Twenty-second and Michigan Avenue. Rates $3.50 to $25.00. Libby Hotel (European), 1414 and 1416 Wabash Avenue. Rates $1.00 to $2.50. Mecca Hotel (American and European), State and Thirty -fourth. Rates $1.00 to 4.00. Newberry (American and European), 225 to 231 Dearborn Avenue. Rates $2.00 to $5.00. Oakland Hotel (American and European), Oakwood Avenue and Drexel Boul. Rates $2.50 to $5.00. Paxton Hotel (American and European), State and Twenty-fifth. Rates $1.50 to $3.00. Southern Hotel (American), Twenty-second and Wabash Avenue. Rates $2.00 to $4.00. Strickland Hotel (European), Lake Ave., bet. Thirty-eighth and Thirty-ninth. Rates $1.50 to $6.00. The Hoffman (American), 2430 Prairie Avenue. Rate $3.00. The Mentone (American and European;, Dearborn Avenue and Erie. Rates $2.50 to $5.00. The Ontario (American), North State and Ontario. Rates $2.50 to $5.00. Transit House (American), Union Stock Yards. Rates $2.00 to $3.50. Union Park Hotel (European), 517 to 521 West Madison. Rates $1.00 to $2.00. West End Hotel (American), 503 West Madison. Rates 81.50 to $2.50. Westminster. Hotel (American) , 264 and 2S6 North Clark. Rates $2.00 to $3.50. White House (American), 2108 and 2110 Wabash Avenue. Kates $2.00 to $3.50. Wyndham Hotel (American), 2932 and 2934 Prairie Avenue. Rates $2.00 to 83.50. Yorkshire Hotel (American), 1837 Michigan Avenue. Rates $2.50 to $3.50. 64 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. Looking West from Michigan Boulevard. The scene on the opposite page offers two structures of the first rank among the edifices of the city, the nation, aud perhaps the world. These are the Auditorium and the Leiter, or Siegel & Cooper Building. The fa9ades of the foreground look upon the Lake Front Park, and are but a portion of the fa- mous row that, beginning with the Public Library, extends well south toward the new station of the Illinois Central Railroad. The Public Observatory of the Auditorium (admission 25 cents) is here seen, and in its cupola is the sta- tion of the United States Signal Service. The new Isabella Building stands beyond. The only church that remains down-town and retains the form of a church is the New Jerusalem (Swedenborgian), on Van Buren Street. It would be well to especially note that the South Side Elevated Terminal is at the south end of No. 9, the Siegel & Cooper Building. 1. The Auditorium Extension. Fronts 178 feet on Michigan Boulevard and 173 feet on Congress Street, at the south- west corner. It is a part of the Auditorium Hotel, and is connected therewith by a tun- nel under Congress Street. The building, which conforms in appearance with its ante- type, is 152 feet high, in 11 stories and base- ment, and has 500 rooms. There are 3 passen- ger elevators. It is among the notable high buildings which elsewhere have a chapter in this guide, and is constructed of steel, New Bedford stone, marble, tile, mosaic, and terra cotta. It was erected in 1892, at a cost of $1,000,000, and a small addition has al- ready been made on the south. This addi- tion is 4 stories high and 60 feet wide on the boulevard. 2. The Auditorium Fronts 362 feet on Congress Street, 187 feet on Michigan Boulevard, and 161 feet on Wabash Avenue. This celebrated and mag- nificent structure, the chief architectural spectacle in Chicago proper, has received attention in our chapters on "Hotels," "Amusements," and " Notable High Build- ings." It covers 1| acres, and the height of the main building is 145 feet, with 10 stories and basement. The spacious tower, however, is 17 or more stories in height, and measures 270 feet from the ground. The walls are of granite and Bedford stone to the top, and the interior is of steel, terra cotta, and other non-combustible materials. A hotel (to which the Extension belongs), the largest theater in the world, a recital hall, 4 stores, and 136 offices go to make up the building. There are 13 passenger elevators, and 3 en- trances to as many parts of the structure. It is estimated that in the mosaics of this great fabric are 50,000,000 pieces of marble, all placed by hand. The builders used 17,- 000,000 brick, 25 miles of pipes, 60,000 square feet of plate-glass, and 12,000 electric lights. The theater will admit 8,000 people at a con- vention, 6,000 at a lecture, 5,000 at an opera. The dining-hall of the hotel is 175 feet long. The Auditorium was the conception of Ferdi- nand W. Peck, who, as president of the Chicago Auditorium Association, brought it to commercial success. Ground was broken in 1887. The Republican National Conven- tion of June, 1888, was held in the theater, and the finished building was dedicated by President Harrison during the holidays of 1889-90. Cost, $3,200,000. 3. The Studebaker Building, At 203-206 Michigan Boulevard, doubtless influenced the architecture of its newer neighbor, the Auditorium, for there is a re- semblance in color, height, and general effect. This carriage repository aud manu- factory has a frontage of 107 feet, a depth of 170 feet, and a height of 135 feet, in 8 stories and basement.' It belongs to the class of notable high buildings of Chicago, and re- ceives some description elsewhere. The exterior walls are heavy, and built of red syenite granite and Bedford stone. The two granite columns at the main entrance, 3 feet 8 inches in diameter and 12 feet 10 inches high, are said to be the largest polished monolithic shafts in the country. The first 4 floors display a selection of 2,000 fine carriages. The remaining floors are used as a manufactory of the same class of goods. Erected in 1884 by the famous wagon-makers of South Bend, Ind. Cost, $750,000. 4. The Chicago Club Building Fronts 90 feet on Van Buren Street and 75 feet on Michigan Boulevard, at the south- west corner, and is an ornate structure which was erected and occupied by the Art Insti- tute. From 1886 until 1892 it was the home VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 65 66 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. of this association, when the property was sold to the Chicago Club, and remodeled to meet the needs or that society. The edifice is 95 feet high, in 4 stories and basement, and is made or steel, Connecticut brownstone, and brick. There are'fc passenger elevators. Cost, $200,000. 5. The Victoria Hotel Building Fronts 102 feet on Michigan Boulevard and 172 feet on Van Buren Street, at the north- west corner, and was once the Beaurivage, Chicago's first " French flats," or fashion- able apartment building. The structure is 80 feet high, in 6 stories and basement, with 2 passenger elevators. It was erected about 1H"8, and burned in 1882. It was rebuilt and stood until 1892, when it was remodeled for the Victoria Hotel, with 278 rooms. Cost, $600,000. (See "Hotels.") 6. Kimball Hall, At 243-253 Wabash Avenue, is an imposing structure, which is devoted largely to music. It is 150 feet wide, 100 feet deep, and 80 feet high, in 7 stories and basement. There are 75 offices for musicians and other profes- sional meii, a recital hall, and the ware- rooms of the W. W. Kimball Company, pianos and organs. The building was erected in 1882. 7. The Isabella Building, At 44-48 Van Buren Street, is one of the very latest of the steel sky-scrapers. It is 46 feet wide. 78 feet deep, and 165 feet high, with 1 1 stories and basement. Copper enters conspicuously into its exterior construction. There are 4 stores, 100 offices, and 2 passen- ger elevators. The Daughters of Isabella have their society halls on the upper floor. Erected in 1893, at a cost of $200,000. 8. The Richardson Building Fronts 80 feet on Wabash Avenue and 200 feet on Congress Street, at the northwest corner, and its 6 stories have a height of 85 feet. The building is a brick one of the old style, with 1 passenger and 2 freight eleva- tors, and is occupied in the lower parts by the carpet company after whom it is named. On the upper floors are some of the heaviest subscription-book firms in the world. Here the Encyclopedia Britannica was photo- fraphed and cheaply reproduced, and Stod- ard's Views of the World and other popu- lar hits had their origin. Erected in 1886. Cost, $250,000. 9. Siegel, Cooper & Co.'s Building Fronts 402 feet on State, 144 feet on Con- gress, and 144 feet on Van Buren Street. It is 123 feet high, and has 8 stories and base- ment. It is more fully described in our chapter oji "Notable High Buildings," and stands as an example of good taste, munifi- cence, and wisdom on the part of its builder, L. Z. Leiter. It is a steel edifice, with heavy walls of Bedford stone, and has a floor area of about 15 acres. There are 12 passenger and 6 freight elevators. The ten- ants do a retail business, with 2,000 em- ployes, and practically offer all the conven- iences of a small city, with 65 different kinds of stores, a bank, restaurant, butcher-shop, telegraph-office, employment bureau, den- tist's office, doctor's office, barber-shop, and a hairdresser for ladies. It is claimed that this is the largest re ail establishment in the world. Cost, $1,500,000. RESTAURANTS. Chicago has a great number of excellent restaurants, many of which have been started for the special purpose of catering to the extra business which the World's Fair brings. The cfty is so happily situated geographically, and its railroad system is so perfect, that it is kept constantly supplied with food prod- ucts flesh, fish, fowl, fruit, and vegetables grown in all portions of the country. Hence the visitor can get at all times, if he wishes them, the delicacies as well as the substantials of a meal. The larger restaurants are in the business center, and a visitor may take interest in watching the animated scene about noon, when the thousands of occupants of the tall buildings are pouring out of them on their way to their favorite eating-houses. It is hardly necessary to say that the prices charged in these restaurants differ widely. It will not take the visitor long to find whose prices suit his purse. He can spend much or little, as he pleases, and he may rest assured that he will find no attempt at extortion anywhere. It is advisable that visitors who lunch down town should do so as early as is convenient, because in that case they will not be so likely to find restaurants crowded with city people. Should the first place entered seem overcrowded it will often be a saving of time to try some other. During the morning and evening hours the demands of residents of the cily on the resources of these places is comparatively limited, and the visitor will then have no difficulty in finding abundant room and prompt service. Without mentioning special details, it may be safely asserted that in appointments and cuisine the first-class restaurants of Chicago compare favorably with those of Europe. Viands well known to the Continent, together with rare and costly wines of famous vintages, are procurable by the possessor of unlimited means, while delicacies peculiar to America are always at hand ; the proprietors desiring to make their establishments as cosmopolitan as possible. If the visitor has the time to spare he should at least look into a number of the Chicago restaurants. Many of them are noted for handsome furniture, beautiful table service, and costly surroundings. To get a good view of an interesting side of city life, it is best to go not merely into Kinsley's, The Auditorium, The Richelieu, The Virginia (North Side), The Palmer House, Grand Pacific Caf6, Rector's Cafe (five-story), The Peacock, The Frogs, and the basement eating-houses, but also to visit some of the cheapest and plainest resorts of the very poor. If you prefer to eat at the same restaurant during your stay, it may be advisable to fee the waiter occasionally in order to get specially prompt service; (67) 68 RESTAURANTS. but if you intend to go only once or twice to a place, there is no necessity for the extra expense, and nothing is gained by it. At first-class places we may order terrapin with sherry, artichoke, cream of various things in place of soup (though hot consomm<3 is best), Tokay wines, liquors, and ices. We will find the earliest of all things musk-melon, strawberries, game, asparagus, etc., with excellent fruit-sauces for fritters and other pastry. We need be in no haste, and if it be intended to go to a theater, the supper should begin at 6 o'clock. The bill for food should not exceed $5 a plate, though with wine it may extend as high as you please. The American Restaurant, at the southeast corner of State and Adams streets, has entrances downstairs from both streets, which are extraordinary for their display of onyx and Italian marble, illuminated with electric lights. The fittings of this restaurant cost $75,000, $25,000 being expended in plate- glass, making a gorgeous effect. A general bill of fare may be ordered. The Ashland Cafe and Restaurant is in the basement of the Ashland Block, opposite the Sherman House, on the northeast corner of Clark and Ran- dolph streets. It is new and clean, and has a number of first-class buildings nearby, on whose occupants it can rely for steady trade. The Auditorium Cafe. This splendid refectory holds a high position in the estimation of epicures. It is intended for those who desire to eat well and pay well for it, or who wish to celebrate in grand style. Here the hus- band meets his wife before the opera, or the promoter meets the investor. Billy Boyle's Chop House is a celebrated hole-in-the-wall on the north side of the alley Calhoun Place off Dearborn Street, north of Madison, west side of Dearborn. Here, as you go in, you may choose your steak, or your chops, or your birds, and wait till they are cooked. The Boston Oyster House is at the southeast corner of Clark and Madi- son streets, in the basement. The members of the clothing firm of Willoughby, Hill & Co., who own this establishment, boast that they make their own butler, bake their own bread, pies, and cakes, and quarry their own marble for staircases and wainscoting. Sea food a specialty; oysters are well and rapidly served. It is a good place at which to find refreshment for man and wife, without fear of extra expense. Brockway & McKey's Restaurant, on the west side of Clark Street, near Madison, catches its crowds from the throng that is always passing in that direction. In summer this place is notable for its huge rotary fans. The prices are low and the trade solidly established. The Chicago Oyster House is a very large and good eating-place under Burke's European Hotel, on the main floor, west of Clark Street, at 140 Madison, on the south side of the street. A long bill of fare is served, and such dishes as maccaroni and game in season may be ordered. The business is well established, and many orders are prepared for regular diners. RESTAURANTS. 69 The Dairy Kitchen Restaurant is a great establishment on the populous northwest corner of State and Madison streets. Here five stories a:.d a base- ment, wholly given over to eating purposes, will add greatly to the facilities of Chicago during the World's Fair season. George D. Smith of New York is the enterprising caterer who has thus shown his confidence in the West. French Restaurants. There are some advantages about a French restau- rant. The attendants are polite, without ostentatious labor; the meats are good and the wines cheap. A table d'hote, with a pint of red wine, is usually served at prices ranging from 60 cents to $1 and the prices are always well maintained. The chief French restaurant in Chicago, now at 79 Clark Street, lias been near the Court House for twenty years. The Lafayette Restaurant is at 112 Monroe Street, upstairs. The Rome Restaurant is at 184 Jackson Street, near the Board of Trade, and the Franyais Restaurant at No. 10 Sher- man Street, downstairs, where good fricassees are served. The Frogs, at 126 Clark Street, on its west side, between Madison and Washington, is a brilliant example of the modern art of embellishment. Here plate-glass, tropical plants, and electric lights are found on four floors. It has private rooms, banquet-rooms, and elaborate cafes, together with elevator service. The display made at night by The Frogs is worth seeing, this estab- lishment being intended to catch trade from the adjacent theaters. Gore's Hotel Cafe, on the west side of Clark Street, north of Van Buren, downstairs, is a place where charges are moderate. Its customers are mainly transient guests of the hotel. Liquors may be ordered at ordinary prices. The Grand Pacific Cafe is at the northwest corner of the great hotel, and holds steadily the patronage of Board of Trade people and experienced business men, who believe that it is well to spend some money in a house with so many conveniences for the public. The cafe is heavily carpeted, and the linen is of the largest and whitest. There is also a lunch-counter. The Great Northern Cafe is without equal in Chicago in the luxury of its appointments. Onyx pillars adorn the velvet-carpeted hall, the hangings and draperies are of Gobelin tapestry and the costliest lace, and the effect of electric illumination by richly gilded fixtures of exquisite design is magical. Solid silver service, dazzling cut-glassware, and specially woven table linen add, if possible, to the sumptuousness of this regal salon d manger. Henrici's Restaurant, at 175 Madison Street, near Fifth Avenue, opposite the tall Security Deposit Building, main floor, is a Vienna cafe, and was the first to serve the excellent rolled bread which has at last become fashionable in all good eating-houses. Prices are fair, and the place has always been well pat- ronized, especially in strawberry season. The same owners run the restau- rant at the Marquette Hotel, 208 Dearborn Street. The Hotel Metropole's Cafe is on Michigan Boulevard at Twenty-third Street. Here the patron may enjoy a dinner in the afternoon while overlook- 70 RESTAURANTS. ing the passing throng of the wealthier residents of Chicago as they crowd the gay thoroughfare in their handsome carriages. Kinsley's. This place, on Adams Street, opposite the Post Office, has been described in the article on " Steel Buildings." You will be told that there are establishments which excel it in some special features, but Kinsley's still remains the best place to show hospitality to friends, either in the open cafes or in private dining-rooms. Mr. Kinsley also gives entertainments to order. There is a business lunch below, where you sit with your hat on. The specialty is rapid service of prepared dishes. The Lakeside Cafe is in the basement at the southwest corner of Clark and Adams streets, near the Post Office and not far from the Rookery, the Home, and other populous steel buildings. The Leland Cafe. Here, at the southwest corner of Jackson Street and Michigan Boulevard, for many years, a table d'lwte dinner with a pint of red wine has been served for a very moderate figure. Chicago is not a table d'hote town, for people wish to order in their own way. But there will be many visitors to the World's Fair, and especially foreigners, who may prefer the table d'hote or set dinners. If so, they will find their wants satisfactorily supplied at the Leland and several other places. McCoy's Hotel Cafe, at the corner of Van Buren and Clark streets, main floor, is a good restaurant, having the advantages of light and air. The railway station near by and the Board of Trade behind furnish a good patronage. Milan & Co.'s Restaurant, at 111 Madison, just east of Clark, on the north side of the street, is a resort where music adds to the attractions of low- priced food. Several floors in the building are occupied for restaurant pur- poses, and there are dining-rooms for private parties. The Palmer House Cafe is at 38 Monroe Street, near the ladies' entrance. A meal at this cafe and a journey through the corridors can not fail to enter- tain the visitor, and there are some historical paintings to be seen. Meals can also always be bought upstairs in the dining-halls, which are very ornate. The Peacock Cafe is at 114 Madison Street, on its south side, near Clark. Here the first successful cheap and popular restaurant (Race's) started after the fire, and made George Holyoake of England declare that he had bought good coffee and bread for the least money at Chicago, and paid there the most money for the blacking of his shoes of any place in the world. This gorgeous interior is now of Georgian marble and French plate-glass, with raised decora- tions in blue and white. The figures of peacocks in full plumage are done in green and bronze, and the feathers are represented by parti-colored electric bulbs. The vestibule is finished in golden mosaic. The cost of these furnish- ings was $40,000. This is an annex of The Boston Oyster House. Rector's establishment, at 35 East Adams Street, occupies five floors, with banquet-rooms, ladies' private dining-rooms, various caf e"s, and elevator. 4 RESTAURANTS. 71 Sea food a specialty, and it is an excellent resort for lovers of oysters and lobsters. Difficult dishes and delicacies, such as Welsh rarebit, may be ordered with confidence, and will be served to perfection. Rector's Oyster House, at the southeast corner of Clark and Monroe streets, has long enjoyed a high reputation among basement resorts. No beef, mutton, veal, or such meats, are cooked. Sea food is a leading specialty, and game is to be had in season. Prices, considering the quality, are low. The Richelieu Cafe. This handsome cafe", Michigan Boulevard near Jackson Street, maintains high rates. It has been in successful operation many years, and is open to the public as well as to the hotel guests. The Saratoga, across the alley from Thomson's, at 155 to 161 Dearborn, possesses the good qualities of its neighbor. Prices are moderate, and the restaurant is liberally patronized by both sexes. The Schiller Cafe and Restaurant is in the basement of the Schiller Theater Building, at 105 and 107 Randolph Street. It will compete with the Ashland Cafe, near by, and each will do its best to please customers. The Tacoma Cafe, in the basement of the tall Tacoma Building, at the northeast corner of Madison and La Salle streets, has a handsome interior, with separate stalls for some of its patrons. Prices are moderate and service is prompt. This place has been decorated tastefully and effectively. Thomson's Restaurant occupies all the numbers of Dearborn Street from 145 to 153, inclusive, near the Tribune, and is the oldest in the city. Many ladies eat here. The restaurant is run in connection with the Windsor Hotel, upstairs. Prices are low. Go early. Strictly temperance. The Victoria Cafe belongs to the Victoria Hotel, which was once the Beau- rivage, the first of the very elegant apartment houses built in Chicago; a fountain plays in the court. The Victoria caters to English custom and to Americans who like English ways. The Virginia and The Granada Cafes. These family hotels, on the North Side, at Rush and Ohio streets, have cafes of a high order, where the cuixine can stand the criticism of the best judges in Western America. The Wellington Cafe. The Gage Hotel Company, which owns this fine establishment, also has the concession for eating-houses at the World's Fair Grounds. The entrance to this cafe is from Wabash Avenue, near Jackson Street, and the apartment on the right is for gentlemen accompanied by ladies; that on the left is for men only. Wooslick's Restaurant is in the basement northeast corner of Dearborn and Monroe streets, under the Stock Exchange. It is on a busy corner, and is convenient for gentlemen and ladies taking the North Side cars. Lunch-counters. " Ah, those Americans, sitting at their lunch-counters with knife and fork it looked for all the world like 500 men playing the dul- cimer ! " says Max O'Rell. The Chicago lunch-counter, where first-class bread, VIEWS OF CHICAGO. Vicinity of Van Buren and Grand Central Stations. The scene presented on the opposite page is notable, first of all, for the pres- ence of two of the six railway passenger depots of Chicago. The first in sight (No. 5) is the Van Buren Street Station, and the farthest (No. 9) is the Grand Central Station. Reference should be had to our chapter on " Arrival," where both of these edifices are described. The Grand Central is mentioned also in the chapter on " Notable High Buildings." The block in the foreground of the picture contains two capacious hotels McCoy's and Gore's, the latter being a steel structure. Another matter to be known concerning the streets of Chi- cago may be here adverted to. Van Buren Street is the southernmost street on the South Side that is a thoroughfare to the West Side, and it is in this region that the surface railroads narrow the South Side to a few blocks of width, finally leaving only State Street, Wabash Avenue, and Michigan Boulevard free. But by going west on Van Buren Street, and turning south on Fifth Avenue, Harrison Street may also be utilized as an exit, and many street-cars go still farther south on Fifth Avenue and reach a river-crossing at Twelfth Street. 1. Gore's Hotel, At 266-274 Clark Street, occupies a steel building, with stone, brick, and steel exte- rior. It has 100 feet frontage, and is 110 feet high, with 8 stories and basement. There are 5 stores, 200 rooms, and 2 passenger ele- vators. The wrought-iron work of the office on the main floor is handsome, and the hotel is regarded as safe and popular by a large class of traveling men and visitors. There is a cafe in the basement. (See " Hotels."; 2. McCoy's European Hotel, At the northwest corner of Clark and Van Buren streets, is celebrated in Irish circles as the rendezvous of prominent Hibernians. It has a massive brick, cut-stone, and iron exterior, with 80 feet on Clark, 100 feet on Van Buren Street, and a height of 100 feet, in 7 stories and basement. There is 1 eleva- tor. The lower part of the building is divided into 6 store-rooms, and there are 250 rooms in the hotel, which is strictly Euro- pean. The office is upstairs. There, is an excellent cafe" on the main floor. Erected in 1884 for William C. McCoy. 3. The Imperial Building', At 252-260 Clark Street, presents a double floor at its entrance, and in this respect is unique in Chicago. It is 10J feet wide, 80 feet deep, and 55 feet high, with 4 stories and basement. It is a small but first-class building, and was long a favorite place for sporting men. There are 5 stores, 20 offices, and 1 passenger elevator. The occupants are the Postal Telegraph Cable Company, ] the Ives Billiard Hall, grain merchants, and stock operators. Erected in 1885. 4. The Omaha Building, At the southeast corner of Van Buren Street and Pacific Avenue, is a fine building, in which trade papers find light and agreeable quarters. It fronts 90 feet on Van Buren Street and 80 feet on Pacific Avenue, is 80 feet high, and has 7 stories and basement, with 6 stores, 65 offices, and 2 passenger elevators. The exterior is of brick, steel, and terra cotta. Other occupants are ice companies and manufacturers' agents. Erected in 1884. 5. The Van Buren Street Station Fronts 180 feet on Van Bureu Street, and 400 feet on both Sherman Street and Pacific Avenue. Before the building of the Board of Trade this depot headed La Salle Street, and was a conspicuous land-mark of the city. In the Great Fire it stood for many hours as a protection to the eastern part of the South Side. It was rebuilt in 1873, and its dedication in June of that year was made a civic musical festival. In 1887 the front was built 2 stories higher, and tower-clocks were added as public conveniences. Fifty- two Hock Island trains, and 56 Lake Shore trains arrive here daily, and 4,500 passengers arrive and depart daily by the Rock Island and 3,500 by the Lake Shore. There are large and well appointed waiting-rooms. The front of the depot is 85 feet high, with 6 stories and basement, and is built of Joliet limestone. It cost $700,000. (See "Arrival in Chicago. ") VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 73 74 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 6. The Kialto Building, Bounded on three sides by Van Buren Street, Sherman Street, and Pacific Avenue, is so called because of a bridge which connects its upper floors with the main hall of the Board of Trade, directly north. The Rialto was one of the early high steel buildings of Chicago, and its architects planned with special reference to light and air. Its front- age on Van Buren Street is 175 feet, and on Sherman Street and Pacific Avenue 144 feet. It is 160 feet high, with 9 stories and base- ment, 420 offices, and 5 passenger elevators. It is occupied by grain, commission, and insurance companies; and the Drainage Commission, in itself a government, has its headquarters on an upper floo'r. Erected in 1886 at a cost of $700,000. (See "Notable High Buildings.") 7. The Atlantic Hotel Is a well-established hostelry at the south- west corner of Van Buren and Sherman streets, with frontages of 60 feet on Van Buren and 120 feet on Sherman Street, 90 feet high, 5 stories and basement, 100 rooms, office on main floor, and 1 passenger eleva- tor. The building is an old-style stone front, erected in 1872. 8. The United States Appraiser's Building: Is a steel building which fronts 60 feet on Harrison Street and 80 feet on Sherman Street, at the northwest corner; 100 feet high, with 7 stories and basement. The fronts are of Connecticut brownstone. Excepting the World's Fair exhibits, all foreign goods consigned to the port of Chi- cago are received, examined, and delivered here. Erected in 1891. 9. The Grand Central Station. Fronts 228 feet on Harrison Street and 482 feet on Fifth Avenue, at the southwest cor- ner, where its square tower rises to a height of 24-3 feet, and holds a clock-bell weighing nearly 6 tons. The arches open for car- riages, which may themselves enter the building, and the equipment of the whole edifice is regarded with pride by all railroad men and architects. The fore building is 100 feet high, with 7 stories and basement, constructed of Connecticut brownstone, brick, terra cotta, and steel. There are 3 elevators. This station is the terminal of the Chicago & Northern Pacific (Wisconsin Central), Chicago Great Western, Baltimore & Ohio, Chicago Central, and Chicago & Southwestern railroads. The seating capac- ity of the waiting-rooms is 1,800, and 77 trains carry 10,000 passengers daily. The open train-shed, which is 560 feet long, covers 7 tracks, each accommodating 7 coaches and locomotive. This magnificent improvement was completed in 1890, and to serve the depot and not close Fifth Avenue the approach to Polk Street bridge, south of Harrison Street, was turned sidewise, and made architecturally a part of the station. (See "Arrival in Chicago." 1 ) 1O. The Van Buren Building:, At 187-191 Van Buren Street, is a very new steel sky-scraper, 130 feet high. It stands on a lot but 50 feet wide and 80 feet deep, and rises to 10 stories above the basement. Its front is of cut-stone and brick. It con- tains 100 suites of offices, and has 1 freight and 2 passenger elevators. It is occupied by manufacturers 1 agents and wholesale jobbers. Erected in 1893. RESTAURANTS. 75 butter, and coffee are served at a profit for 10 cents, is the invention of H. H. Kohlsaat, proprietor of the Inter Ocean. His first place of business was at 196 Clark Street. You sit on a low stool, hat on, people waiting for your seat, no napkin, but quick service. Here 15 cents will suffice for a lunch, and 25 cents buys a superfluity. The custom is drawn from all classes. Following are the leading lunch-counters at which 15 cents will pay the bill in ordinary times: H. H. Kohlsaat & Co., southwest corner Clark and Monroe streets, 221-223 State Street, 324 Dearborn Street, 59 Washington Street, 83 Lake Street; E. W. Kohlsaat, 130 Washington Street, 175 Jackson Street; The Troy Lunch, 116 Randolph Street, 128 Dearborn Street, and 111 Adams Street; Coyne's Lunch, 164 Madison Street; Brighton Lunch, 81 Clark Street, opposite the Court House; Arcade Lunch, 202 La Salle Street, 271 State Street, 249 to 253 Dearborn Street, and 6 and 8 Plymouth Place. These places are all on the main floor. In the great steel buildings will be found small cafes and lunch-coun- ters that are known and patronized mainly by the tenants, particularly in inclement weather. Note among these, the Board of Trade, the Rookery, the Insurance Exchange (upstairs), the Masonic Temple, etc. WOMEN'S RESTAURANTS. Mrs. Clark Co. Lunch Room is a popular establishment at 145 Wabash Avenue, which, owing to the excellent quality of the food, the good service, and the reasonable rates, has become a favorite with Chicago women. The Woman's Exchange, Wabash Avenue, east, near Madison Street. This institution began as a benevolent undertaking, to sell articles made by needy women. It has greatly enlarged its scope, and now gives a midday meal to many hundreds of regular and transient patrons. The cost is moderate. The service is by women, and the large room is usually filled. Dry goods stores. All the prominent houses now have restaurants where good meals can be obtained at reasonable prices. Take the elevator at Marshall Field's, Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co.'s, Walker's, Mandel Brothers', and The Fair (Dearborn Street side). At Siegel, Cooper & Co.'s the cafe is in the basement. The Leader and other establishments also cater to the appetites of their customers. These cafes are intended specially for the convenience of ladies who are shopping; they are almost invariably crowded, and it is not worth the while of male visitors to try to get meals at them. Women visitors will often find them a great convenience. CONFECTIONERS. Berry's. This confectioner has establishments all over the city five on Madison Street alone. The one best worth visiting is at the southeast corner 76 RESTAURANTS. of State and Adams streets, the special attraction being the plate-glass room. These walls and ceilings cost $25,000. Berry's ice-cream has become an insti- tution in Chicago. Gunther, at 212 State Street, made his fame and his candy first at McVick- er's Theater. Then he built for himself this palace of sweets. Here, also, you may obtain a light refreshment coffee, tea, ice cream, cakes, ices, iced drinks, etc. The interior is Venetian, the tints rich cream-color and gold, and the whole effect thoroughly artistic and beautiful. The soda-fountain and marble counters are rich and ornate. Mirrors line the rear of the cafe, 7 Upstairs on/ the second floor is a remarkable collection of autograph letters, ancient manu-j scripts and books, and curiosities of all kinds on view. Mr. Gunther is one ofj most prominent collectors ^f^curios. Huyler's, 161 State Street and MIcTiigan Boulevard near Twenty-second Street. At these numbers the great Eastern confectioner dispenses to the elite the high-grade candies which have made his name famous throughout the United States. Bonbonnieres in great variety and of exquisite designs are also sold, and a large soda-fountain is kept in constant operation. The win- dow display at Huyler's is always strikingly artistic. Kranz, at 78 and 80 State Street. A brilliant interior, with decorations of electric lights, large oil-paintings, rich soda-fountain, marble counters, and cafe for light refreshment frequented by a liberal patronage. Plows & Co., 78 Madison, adjoining McVicker's Theater. This is the original stand. Here the double-curved display window is a striking feature. Two branch houses thrive, at the Victoria Hotel, Michigan Boulevard, and in the Columbus Memorial Building, corner of State and Washington streets. The latter is one of the handsomest confectionery houses in the world, the floor and rear wall being beautiful mosaics. POPULAR BARS. Chapin & Gore's, at 73 Monroe Street, directly back of McVicker's Thea- ter, is a famous bar and lunch-room, and has many stalls where private conversation can be carried on. These stalls are almost always filled in the eating-hours and until late at night. Prices are not high. Kern's, at 108 La Salle Street, has been a favorite bar and lunch-room for city politicians, and Mr. Kern has held important county offices. Schimpferman's. A favorite resort among distinguished politicians and professional men is Schimpferman's wine room, No. 172 Madison Street. The reputation established by this house is due to the superiority of its wines, which for twenty-five years have maintained their excellence and reliability. An admirable dinner is also served here at extremely moderate prices. RESTAURANTS. 77 Other eating-places. All the clubs have cafes and all the hotels have dining-rooms, and there are many new, small, transient, and humble eating- places, down to the glass-covered wagon of the waffle seller and the peripatetic tin can of the hot tomaleman. Our map will enable the reader to find any one of the places mentioned above which he may specially wish to see. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1O 11 12 13 14 15 1 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 3O 31 32 33 34 35 30 U.AKE 1 3m n [CHEL^: nczur INDEX TO RESTAURANTS. American Oyster House and Restaurant, State and Adams, D-4. Arcade Lunch, 202 La Salle, B-4; 271 State, D-6; 249-253 Dearborn, C-l; 6-8 Plymouth Place, Ashland Restaurant, Randolph and Clark, C-l . Baldwin's Restaurant, 125 Fifth Avenue, A-3. Boston Oyster House and Restaurant, Madison and Clark, C-3. Brockway & McKey's Restaurant, 154-160 Clark, B-3. Chicago Oyster House and Restaurant, 140-142 Madison, B-3. Chicago Restaurant, 176-178 Adams, B-4. Clark, Mrs., Co., Lunch, 145 Wabash Avenue, D-3. Columbia Lunch, 148-150 Monroe, B-4. Henrlci's Restaurants, 175 Madison and A , B , C , D , E 208 Dearborn, C-4. Illinois Restaurant, 75-77 Randolph, D-l. Kern's Restaurant and Oyster House, 108-110 La Salle, B-2. Kinsley's Restaurant and Cafe", 105-107 Adami, C-4. 2 Kohlsaat's Lunch, 196 Clark, B-4 ; 59 Wash- ington, D-2; 324 Dearborn, C-6; 83 Lake, D-l ; 221-223 State, D-5. Lafayette Restaurant (table d'hote), 112 3 Monroe, C-4. Lakeside Restaurant, Clark and Adams B-5. Milan &Co.'sRestaurant,lllMadlson,C-3. 4 New Brighton Restaurant, 262 Clark, B 5. Parker's Lunch, 171 Randolph, B-l. Peacock Annex Caf6 and Restaurant, 114 Madison, C-3. Rector's Oyster House, Monroe and Clark, C-4. Rector's Restaurant, 35 Adams, D 4. Restaurant Fram;ais (table d'hote), 77 Clark, C-2. Rome Cafe (table d'hote), 148 Jackson,B-5 Saratoga Restaurant, 155 Dearborn, D-3. Schiller Caf and Restaurant, 105-107 Randolph, C-l. Schlogl's, 109 Fifth Avenue, B-2. Tacoma Restaurant, Madison and La Salle, B-3. The Dairy Kitchen Restaurant and Cafe, Madison and State, D-3. The Frogs Restaurant and Caf6, 126 Clark, B-3. Thomson's Restaurant, 145-153 Dearborn, D-3. Troy Lunch, 116 Randolph, C-2 j 128 Dearborn. C-3; 111 Adams, C-4. Winter's Cafe and Restaurant, State and Van Buren, D-6. Woman's Exchange Lunch, 1130 Wababh Avenue, E-3. Woosliek's Restaurant, Monroe and Dearborn, D-3. 7 AMUSEMENTS. SOUTH SIDE BUSINESS DISTRICT. As the playhouse must depend largely upon the genius of the age, and as human invention is by turns sterile and prolific, so, too, the drama has its sea- sons of splendor and decay. The age is unproductive of the highest histrionic achievement. The opera languishes, and good plays are so few that they can scarcely support the theaters during an entire season. They must be supple- mented by spectacular scenes, the ballet, and low comedies and burlesques, that do not aim to elevate the stage, but to amuse and entertain the popular mind. Thirty years ago the melodies of Rossini, Meyerbeer, Donizetti, Bellini, and Gounod delighted the musical world. Nowadays creations of genius oftener take the form of orchestral composition; and even the delightful Gilbert and Sullivan series can not long hold the public taste. Classicism is too intellectual, too somber; we must have recreation. The theaters, 'therefore, simply obey the popular demand, and in place 1 of serious productions provide, for example, the fund of American satire in which Hoyt excels, to please the willing listener with clever and fertile wit, set in the modern form of play. The foibles of poli- tics, plumbing, hotel-keeping, athletic sports, railroading, drug-store-keeping, and prohibition have served as themes for mirth-provoking exaggeration, and people have flocked to see these rollicking performances. One of the last of American managers to relinquish the era of legitimate drama was James H. McVicker, the well-known theater manager of Chicago. The Auditorium. This is one of the finest theaters in the world, noted for the frequent display and brilliancy of its assemblages. Imagine the spectacle in the winter of 1889-90, when the Auditorium inaugurated the Patti season of opera with Rossini's " William Tell." The stage-setting is a perfect reproduction of rural scenery. Two rows of boxes on each side, forty in all, are filled with parties of five persons, who have paid $2,500 for the season for each box. The ladies occupying them are richly attired, the display of gems being as lavish as it is beautiful. From the enormous stage the parquet, seating 1,500 people in wide chairs, stretches far backward, slowly rising until it reaches the first gallery, beneath which is a broad space carpeted with red velvet, and opening upon large rooms handsomely adorned with leather- covered furniture, open grates, etc. Above the gallery, again, the great balcony rises to a height of about five stories, having seating accommodation for 1,500 people. Above this is a gallery with 437 seats projecting slightly beyond the balcony, and overlapping this, still higher, is the upper gallery, with 526 seats. The lower seats are upholstered w'th yellow plush, in harmony (78) AMUSEMENTS. 79 with the general tone of the Auditorium. Near the balcony-rail, and along the narrow gallery surmounting the boxes, are seats which have commanded $30 each from speculators, and there is standing-room all over the house for about 1,500 people, at $1 each. From the arch of the proscenium, extending over the parquet in widening curves, are arches of electric lights, festooned with decorative moldings in yellow and cream color. The effect of this spectacle as seen from the balcony is the most brilliant imaginable. The entire audience of about 6,000 persons is filled with animation and delight, enchanted not only by the glittering display of wealth and luxury, but by the music, distinctly heard in the remotest part of the house. Such is the opening night at the Auditorium. The Auditorium is seen most favorably only when the house is well filled as at a concert by the Apollo Club or during some World's Fair attraction. The Apollo Club here made excellent use of the huge organ and its steeple- bells, and on workingmen's nights wage-earners are invited to hear music at less than cost, the singing being always voluntary. The balls which are given in this hall make it the most important social center in the western world. At the Columbian dedication ball boxes were arranged across the stage, and the floor extended over the entire parquet. The scene while the diplomatic corps and the officers of the regular army and the militia of a dozen States were moving about was similar to the tableau at an inauguration ball in Washington, when some unusually large floor has been obtained; but the luxurious surroundings of the Auditorium the ladies' rooms, smoking- rooms, cloak rooms, banquet-hall, and perfect acoustics, combined with absence of draughts these defy comparison. The stage of the Auditorium offers an example of the luxury of modern theatrical machinery, and should be described as in some sense typical of the mimic scene, in attempting to popularize which, during the seventies, Edwin Booth lost a fortune in New York. The expense incurred behind the foot- lights of the Auditorium was $175,000. In the first place there are two stories under the stage, and hydraulic elevators lift the whole, or any part of it, at the will of the engineer. This stage is 62! feet deep from footlights to the rear wall, 98 feet wide, and from the stage-floor to the flies the height is 89 feet; in great scenes the proscenium also lifts out of sight, making the stage as wide as the parquet. Twenty-six hydraulic elevators move the nine "bridges" and four drops which form the stage-floor. There are 125 backgrounds and 300 movable pieces, and behind the scenes may be unrolled 300 feet of pan- oramic horizon fifty feet high, representing any sky effect proper to the hour of the scene. The arrival of the loaded ship on the ocean in " Othello," and the debarkation of the troops, is made so realistic as to fill the spectator with fear for the safety of the storm-tossed Venetians. The double-floored scene in "Aida,"with the brass god Phthal in the temple above and the lovers 80 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. Printing-house Row, from Van Buren Street. The page opposite portrays faithfully the extraordinary double row of high buildings which lines Dearborn Street between Van Buren and Harrison streets. This is Printing-house Row so called from the large number of print- ing-offices included within its limits. Among the high structures of this group, described elsewhere, are the Old Colony, the Manhattan, the Pontiac, the Como, the Caxton, the Monon, and the Ellsworth. 1. The Old Colony Building Is one of the latest of the high steel build- ings, and fronts three streets at Dearborn, and Van Buren, and Plymouth Place, on the southeast corner of the two streets. Its frontages are 148 feet on Dearborn Street and Plymouth Place and 68 feet on Van Buren Street. The building is 210 feet high, or 17 stories and basement, with 6 passen- ger elevators. It is built with tower bays at the corners, and presents an ornate appear- ance. The first four stories are of light-blue Bedford stone and for the upper part Old Colony pressed brick and white terra cotta are used. There are 5 stores and 600 offices. The corridor floors are laid in mosaic tile, and the modern appurtenances and luxuries are seen in profusion. The Old Colony was erected by Francis Bartlett of Boston in 1893, at a cost of over $900,000. 2. The Oirard Building, At 298-306 Dearborn Street, has 100 feet frontages on Dearborn Street and Custom House Place. It is 60 feet deep and 80 feet high, with 7 stories and basement; 1 passen- ger elevator, 1 freight elevator, 15 offices, and 4 stores; brick, stone, and iron exterior. Occupied by printers, publishers, engravers, and photographers. Erected in 1888. 3. The Manhattan Building, At 317-321 Dearborn Street, was the first 16-story building erected in America, beat- ing the Unity only by a neck. It has shoulders like a grain elevator, and at the time of its inception and construction was regarded with awe and fear. It has front- ages of 150 feet on Dearborn Street and Plymouth Place, and is 68 feet deep, with a height of 200 feet. There are 3 stores, 600 offices, and 5 passenger elevators. The ex- terior is of granite, Roman brick, and trra cotta. The interior is of steel, tile, and cement. The building is tenanted by manu- facturers' 1 agents and publishers. It cost $850,000, and was erected in 1890. 4. The Monoii Building, At 320-326 Dearborn Street, extends through to Custom House Place, with frontages of 75 feet. It is 67 feet deep and 160 feet high, in 13 stories and basement. It is one of the fine high steel buildings of New Chicago, and was built principally for the general offices of the " Monon " Route. There are 4 stores, 125 offices, and 3 passenger elevators. The exterior is of brick and terra cotta, the interior, steel and tile. Patent lawyers and publishers fill the offices which are not occu- pied by the railroad company. The Monon was erected in 1890 at a cost of $285,000. 5. The Como Block, At 323-325 Dearborn Street, has frontages of 40 feet on both Dearborn Street and Plym- outh Place. It is 80 feet deep, 95 feet high, and is divided into 8 stories and basement. It was among the first of the better class of structures for publishers, and was built with steel frame and heavy walls of stone, brick, and terra'cotta. There are 2 stores, 25 offices, and 2 passenger elevators. The building is occupied by printers, publish- ers, engravers, artists, and manufacturers 1 agents. It was erected in 1888. 6. The Caxton Building, At 328-334 Dearborn Street, has frontages of 80 feet through to Custom House Place. This is a great nive of industry with printers, binders, and publishers on each one of its 12 stories. The building rises to a height of 150 feet, and has 3 passenger elevators, which carry 3,000 persons daily. There are 110 offices and 5 stores. The construction is steel, fire-proofing, brick and terra-cotta exterior. Krected in 1890; cost $270,000. 7. The Pontiac Building Is a still larger structure of the same high architectural character, at the northwest corner of Dearborn and Harrison streets, with 100 feet frontage on Dearborn and 70 on Harrison. It has 14 stories and base- ment, 260 offices, and 2 passenger elevators. The exterior construction is of brick and terra cotta, with steel and tile interior. It is occupied by publishers and printers, and cost $375,000. 8. The Ellsworth Building, At 353-359 Dearborn Street, extends through to Plymouth Place, with frontages on both streets of 71 feet, and a depth of 60 feet. The building, of steel, with exterior of brick and terra cotta. was erected in 1892. It is 170 feet high, in 14 stories and basement. There are 4 stores, 200 offices, and 3 elevators. The tenants are manufacturers' agents, publish- ers, and printers. VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 81 82 AMUSEMENTS. immured in the dungeon below, is no less than 24 x 36 feet. The steel ropes on which these hundreds of pieces hang aggregate twenty-one miles. When the orchestra is augmented, as in opera, there are "dark" electric lights on the music-stands, and during night scenes these present curious effects. The manager is Mil ward Adams, well known to his profession, who had the honor of managing the audience at the dedication of the World's Fair, in Manufactures Hall, when 150,000 persons attended. The Auditorium was planned and promoted by Ferdinand W. Peck. Chicago Opera House is at the southwest corner of Washington and Clark streets. This house is the scene of triumph of the Amazon show, and here the tinseled marching host has scored its greatest success in America, and sum- mer after summer the richest of spectacles and the sorriest of dramas draw crowded houses with no change of bills; a popularity secured by David Hen- derson, once a first-class daily journalist, who, tiring of literary poverty, has become wealthy as a successful manager. The theater which he manages in Chicago is in a steel building, and though its ulterior once burned, every pos- sible precaution has now been taken to preclude danger from fire, so that if the spectator can not feel safe here, he would do well to avoid all public assem- blages. There are two main exits, one to Washington Street and one to Clark Street, besides passages to the alley in the rear. Neither need there be fear of collapse, for all the galleries and boxes are of steel, and would probably sup- port a weight one hundred times greater than could be piled on them. The West Side cables pass, and the North Side cables are close by this theater, whose illuminations at night make it a landmark of the city. Entering from Washington Street, we reach a reception-room leading to a fine interior. Here are two galleries, and seats for 2,000 people. The prices are $1.50, $1, 75 cents, and 50 cents, and one seat is as good as another. The music and scenery of this theater are surpassed only by those of the Auditorium on rare occasions. In hot weather the gallery is necessarily the warmest place, but it is also the most comfortable when the temperature is below zero. Columbia Theater is on the south side of Monroe Street, near Dearborn. North Side cables pass the door, with West and South Side cables only one and two blocks away. Here the seats are commodious, but it is well to get within twenty-five feet of the stage, if possible. The seating capacity is 2,400. The theater was christened the Columbia in 1885 by Ellen Terry, who was the leading lady in Henry Irving's company, then playing there to great houses. Will J. Davis, husband of Jessie Bartlett Davis, and proprietor of the Haymarket (West Side) Theater, is a partner with Al Hayman at the Columbia, and no theater in Chicago, for the last two years, has been able to outdo this house in recJierche attractions. The stage is very large, and on the occasion of Amazon marches and transformation scenes comes into magnificent use. Seats in the orchestra and dress-circle, $1.50; rear lower floor and front AMUSEMENTS. 83 gallery, $1; rear of gallery, 75 cents; upper gallery, 50 cents. The best seats are on the lower floor. Splendid illuminations and a brilliant canopy and foyer welcome you to a fine interior. The Eden Musee, or Haverly's Casino, Wabash Avenue, south of Adams Street, was formerly a beautiful little wax-work exhibition with music- hall. Jack Haverly, with his time-honored minstrel show, has recalled the place to popularity, and here family parties may spend a happy hour at the smallest expense and without fear of improprieties. The music is sure to be good and the fun uproarious. Admission to all, 50 cents; children, 25 cents; seats open to first comers. Children particularly delight in the Eden Musee. Cables pass the door, and Van Buren Street cables and Elevated near by. Grand Opera House. This site has been devoted to amusements for nearly forty years. Here was Bryan Hall, which shortly before the Great Fire was transformed into Hooley's Theater. Here, after the Great Fire, the Coliseum beer-hall had its day, and pickpockets at last turned off the gas-meter below, while their pals rifled the pockets of the roysterers upstairs. In 1880 it was devoted to better uses, and has been a successful house for over a decade. Here Hoyt has produced many of his laughable farces with profit to the management. Here, too, the Boston Ideals Barnabee, Clarke, and particularly De Lussan, the ideal ' ' Daughter of the Regiment" sustained the expiring cause of good music, and left the patrons of the Grand with many pleasant memories. The West Side and North Side cables pass within half a block, and the somewhat antiquated transparency announces at a distance the current attraction. The entrance is opposite the east door of the Court House. The prices are $1.50, $1, 75 cents, and 50 cents, the theater accommodating about 1,300 people. Hooley's Theater is located at 149 Randolph Street, very near the junc- tion of the North and the West cables. It once stood where the Grand Opera House is. The seats are crowded together closely, an inconvenience compen- sated by the class of plays, which is always high, more successes having been scored here during the last decade than anywhere else. The crack New York companies often visit this house, which seats over 1,500 people, the prices ranging from $1.50 for the best seats to 50 cents for the upper gallery. All seats on the lower floor are near the stage. McVicker's Theater. If you turn aside from the living torrent that passes at State and Madison streets, and enter the latter brilliant thoroughfare, within a few feet on the left, facing north, is the commanding front of McVicker's Theater. Its light and graceful canopy invites you to glance within and examine the wide and handsome entrance. On the left is the candy-store which Gunther made famous before he turned it over to Plows; and on the right is a display of the choicest fruits. There is, possibly, no theater in Amer- ica better known than McVicker's. Its proprietor and manager was one of the 84 AMUSEMENTS. earliest of Chicago's actors, as our history has shown. His connection with Edwin Booth, Lotta, Jefferson, Edwin Adams, John McCullough, Florence, Maggie Mitchell, O'Neill, Nagle, and hundreds of other actors was close, and often affectionate. His own talent was recognized in roles like Hamlet's grave-digger, and his character and intellect reflected such honor upon the pro- fession that he became their dean and mentor. But when the change came from "Julius Caesar" to the "Black Crook," from stock companies with a dozen men of genius to strolling companies with rarely an actor and never a play, he was unable to adapt himself to the necessity of abandoning the drama and playing to the box-office instead of before the footlights. His theater remains, however, a splendid temple, to which crowds annually return to welcome Jeffer- son and other old favorites. This house, which was burned in the fire of 1871, and again in 1890, has a handsomer interior now than ever before, and was finished regardless of cost. The theater remains now, as always, among the first on the list; and in that second birth of the drama for which we all look, when good plays shall abound, it is fair to presume that no poor work will ever be seen here such is a tradition of the house. McVicker's has exits on all sides, making it in that way the safest place of entertainment in the city. Iron stairways, moreover, are placed on the east and west walls, and as a further safeguard the stage-curtain is of asbestos. The seating capacity is 2,300. The interior decorations are complete, entirely covering the walls and ceiling, with the exception of a space over the boxes for bas-reliefs, by Gelert, representing the Chicago massacre and La Salle's march through Illinois. The effect of the -auditorium is impressive, lavish- ness of expense being combined with simplicity of design. The stage is very large, and there are two galleries and twelve boxes. Here in the forenoons of Sundays Dr. H. W. Thomas preaches to his congregation, and here all the great actors, singers, and lecturers have appeared. To this house the remains of Franc B. Wilkie (Poliuto) were brought by the Press Club in 1891, and a most beautiful service was held in honor of Chicago's great journalist. The prices of seats at McVicker's range from 50 cents to $1.50. Mr. McVicker's " Observanda," or things that ought to be observed, is an ele- gantly printed and illustrated souvenir of the theater, similar to the books and pamphlets of other conspicuous buildings. The Schiller Theater, Randolph Street, next to the Ashland Block, was the third to adopt the safeguards of a steel building. It stands on the former site of Wood's Museum, in which the Siamese Twins, the Last Supper, and the Sleeping Beauty were exhibited. In the old days the illumination at night was the best in the city, beholding which, joy seized upon the adventurer who had sought " the great metropolis," as it was even then fondly called. Here the " Lancashire Lass," the "Long Strike," and the " Ticket o' Leave Man," with Frank Aiken as Bob Brierly, had their runs. On a spot so long dedi- AMUSEMENTS. 85 cated to good drama the Schiller was formally opened October 1, 1892, by a German company, with three one-act plays: "Die Pioniere," "Die Gustie von Blasemitz," and " "Wallenstein's Lager." Charles Frohman's company, in the "Major's Appointment" and "Gloriana," appeared October 17th, being the first English company to occupy the new house. The holiday season and Sunday evenings are devoted to strictly German productions. The North cables pass it; the West are a block south; the South a block and a half east. SOUTH OF TWELFTH STREET. The Alhambra Theater, telephone " South, 142," is on State Street near Archer Avenue, being reached by the cable on State Street, or by the Elevated road. Its bills are similar to those of other " outside theaters." The house is large, seating 2,500 people, and while the balconies are wide, the stage is not far away. Prices are moderate. Hardy's Subterranean Theater gives to the sight-seer an opportunity to see the marvels hidden underground by descending in elevator-cars to a depth never before reached. Although the car only moves up and down in a shaft about twenty feet deep, the illusion is made perfect by a combination of mechanical devices, and the effect produced is that of a real descent of 1,200 feet. Stops are made at different places, showing such scenes as the sewers of Paris, quartz-mines (with miners at work), an explosion in a coal-mine, caverns inhabited by prehistoric man, a scene in the catacombs of Rome, and a sunken ship with divers at work. Admission, 75 cents to $1.25. The Trocadero occupies Battery D, at Michigan Avenue and Monroe Street, the building having been leased to Dr. Florence Ziegfeld, representing a stock company, under whose general management musical entertainments, including orchestral and vocal performances, together with national dances and other attractions, will be given during the season. Foreign artists and musi- cians of wide popularity have been engaged, and the project bids fair to be successful, especially in view of its novelty and international character. Havlin's Theater, South Side, on the west side of Wabash Avenue, between Eighteenth and Twentieth streets, was built to spare residents the long and uncomfortable trip on a slow and rattling cable. This theater ruined its originator, Mrs. Baker, before it was opened to the public. It is large, and presents attractive plays, and as an old favorite it is well worth visiting. The Marlowe Theater is at Englewood, on Sixty-third Street. It was opened in 1890, and its Sunday performances have met furious opposition from the churches near which it stands. It can be reached by the State Street cable, with transfer over viaduct by horse-cur. Seats for 1,200, with large stage. 86 AMUSEMENTS. THE NORTH SIDE. Jacobs' Clark Street Theater, on the North Side, just over the bridge, was once McCormick Hall, and here Richard A. Proctor first illustrated the nebula in Orion, and Professor Pepper walked through the ghost projected on the stage. The house is now devoted to cheap attractions which are held in little dramatic, but much popular repute. The New Windsor Theater, on North Clark Street, at Division Street, is another of the remote theaters of a high class erected in hopes of saving trans- portation down-town and back. All good plays reach theaters of this class after they have exhausted their field on the South Side. Hoyt, for instance, has from two to three plays on the boards during the whole season. INDEX TO AMUSEMENTS. 1 Academy of Music, 88 South Halsted; comedy and drama, A-8. 2 Alhambra Theater, State and Archer Avenue; opera and comedy, D-7. 3 Auditorium, Wabash Avenue and Congress; opera and extravaganza, E*-5. 4 Battle of Gettysburg Panorama, Wabash Avenue and Hubbard Court, E-6. 5 Central Music Hall, State and Randolph; lectures, concerts, etc., E-3. 6 Chicago Fire Cyclorama, Michigan Ave- A i B , C nue, near Madison, E-3. 7 Chicago Opera House, Washington and Clark ; opera, comedy, and drama, C-3. 8 Clark Street Theater, Clark and Kinzle; - comedy and drama, D-2. 9 Columbia Theater, Monroe, near Dear- 2 born; opera, comedy, and drama, D-4. 10 Eden Muse'e and Casino, 227-229 Wabash -j= Avenue; minstrel and wax figures, E-4. 11 Grand Opera House.Clark.opposite Court 3 House; opera, comedy, and drama, D-8. 12 Hardy's Subterranean Theater, Wabash Avenue, near Sixteenth, E-7. 13 Havlln's Theater, Wabash Avenue, near 4 Eighteenth ; comedy and drama, E-7. 14 Haymarket Theater, West Madison, near Halsted; opera, comedy, and drama,A-3. ,- 15 Hooley's Theater, Randolph, opposite Court House; opera, comedy, and drama, C-2. 16 JohnBrown'sFort.Wabash Avenue, near _ Thirteenth; war relics, etc., E-6. 1 7 Llbby Prison War Museum, Wabash Ave- - nue, near Fourteenth; war relics, etc., E-7. 7 18 McVlcker's Theater.Madison, near State; opera, comedy, and drama, D-3. A ' B ' C 19 Niagara Falls Panorama, Wabash Avenue and Hubbard Court, E-5. 20 Schiller Theater, Randolph, near Clark; opera, comedy, and drama, D-2. 21 Standard Theater, Jackson and Halsted; comedy and drama, A-4. 22 The Military Tournament 23 Trocadero Theater, Michigan Avenue and Monroe, E-3. 94 Windsor Theater, North Clark, near Division, comedy and drama, D-l. AMUSEMENTS. 87" WEST SIDE THEATERS. The Academy of Music. This house, standing on Halsted Street, a little south of Madison, readily recognized by its beautiful display of parti-colored electric lights, has quite a history. After the Great Fire there was but one theater in town, and that was involved in a dozen law-suits. The Academy of Music was built, furnished, and opened in the month of November, 1871, and, although twice burnt, it has enriched two managers. The theater usually gives an interesting entertainment at low prices, and seats 1,800 persons. The Haymarket Theater is the leading West Side place of amusement, and is reached by the long cross-town cars, as well as by the swift Madison cable. It stands in the most cosmopolitan district of Chicago, is very large, seating 2,400 persons, and its brilliancy at night adds sensibly to the splendor of the street. Admission falls as low as 15 cents and rises as high as $1.50. Will J. Davis, the originator and proprietor, is a native of Chicago, and a man of wide experience. It may be added that the Haymarket Theater has no connection, either in name or location, with the riots of 1886. The Standard Theater, at the corner of Jackson Boulevard and Halsted Street, is a large house, seating over 2,000 people; was erected in 1883. Light comedy and variety, with an occasional heavy tragedy, are its special- ties. The admission is cheap, from 10 cents to $1 for the best seats. OTHER ATTRACTIONS. Central Music Hall. This famous hall was built by George B. Carpenter, who was regarded as a hair-brained promoter until his project reaped the richest of harvests. There is a good organ here and a large seating capacity, but no scenery and small wing-space, although plenty of room under the stage. Here, before the erection of the Auditorium, was the chief concert- hall of Chicago, and it can not be said that the place has diminished in impor- tance since 1889. So large is the demand for such a hall, that there is never a night in the season when it is vacant, and here all the great artists and lecturers who have visited Chicago since 1879, from Beecher to Edwin Arnold, have made their bow to a Chicago audience. For many years Prof. David Swing has preached here on Sunday forenoons to an audience of the foremost citizens. During an attractive entertainment before a good house an evening here can not fail to be enjoyable. Opposite Masonic Temple, southeast cor- ner of State and Randolph streets, near all cables, except Van Buren Street. The Congresses at the Art Palace will be called the Assembly of the World's Congress Auxiliary, and the daily papers will teem with announce- ments of the principal speakers, who will represent the leading thought of the world. The Art Palace is at the foot of Adams Street. 88 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. Region of Twelfth Street Railway Station. The view before us on the opposite page presents the new and magnificent Illinois Central Station, at the south end of the Lake Front Park, and graph- ically gives the relative situations of the world-famous Michigan Boulevard (elsewhere fully described) and Wabash Avenue, once the aristocratic thorough- fare of Chicago, but now a rapidly extending business street. The general view in this region is very beautiful, either looking toward the blue lake or westward on the throngs of fine carriages and well-dressed pedestrians con- tinually passing northward and southward. The remarkable Twelfth Street viaduct may be seen to begin at Wabash Avenue. This elevated thorough- fare crosses twelve or more great trunk railway lines ere it descends to grade at Canal Street, on the West Side. The Manual Training School is also in sight, and the World's Fair may be seen from any point south of Van Buren Street along the lake shore. The visitor arriving at this station should note the location of several good hotels near by, all of which are described below. The great boulevard hotels are but a few blocks north. 1. The Twelfth Streat Station. This structure fronts on Lake Park Place, formerly Park Row, which is the southern boundary of Lake Front Park. For 22 years the Illinois Central depot was the only ruin of the Great Fire, and many fruitless efforts were made by the railroad company to buy property from the city on which to erect a new station at the foot of Washington Street. The Supreme Court's decision in 1892 went against tue company, and it withdrew to its own property at Twelfth Street. The present station was erected during the win- ter of 1892-93. The height of the main building is 9 stories, or 157 feet, the clock- tower being 13 stories, or 225 feet high. The exterior is a beautiful combination of Mil- ford granite and Pompeian brick, with terra- cotta moldings to match. There is a front- age of 212 feet on Lake Park Place, and a depth of 178 feet to the baggage-court, on the Twelfth Street end of the station. The main waiting-room on the second story, 100 x!25 feet, is reached from the carriage court, or from the outside entrance. It has a bay-window, 25 x 50 feet, on the east side, giving a view of ihe lake through numerous plate-glass windows framed to represent pictures. There are spacious smoking- rooms, a woman's waiting-room, 50 x 75 feet, a restaurant, and private dining-rooms, all arranged and furnished in modern style; 3 high-speed elevators convey passengers to the general offices on the upper floors. The train-shed, over 600 feet long, is equipped with 8 tracks, and has accommodation for 110 passenger coaches at one time. The 3 detached buildings south of Twelfth Street are for baggage, incoming and outgoing, and for express. The emigrant-rooms are located over the baggage-rooms, on the second floor. The total cost of this building was upward of $1,000,000. The Illinois Cen- tral, Michigan Central, the "Big Four," and the Chicago & West Michigan railway lines occupy this station as their Chicago passen- ger terminal. 2. The Kimball Building. This conspicuous feature of Michigan Boulevard stands at the southwest corner of Harmon Court, with frontages of 160 feet on the court and 8J feet on the boulevard. The structure is 7 stories high, or 115 feet, the clock-tower rising to the height of 140 feet. Granite, pressed brick, and terra cotta form the exterior, the construction being thor- oughly steel and fire-proof. There are 3 ele- vators 1 passenger and 2 freight. This building was erected in 1892, and is entirely occupied by the owners, C. P. Kimball & Co., as a repository and factory for high-grade carriages, sleighs, and harness. 3. The Bordeaux Hotel Has 60 feet frontage at No. 339 Michigan Boulevard, with a depth of 120 feet, and is 7 stories high. Its exterior is of pressed brick and terra cotta. Erected in 1891, it has since been occupied as a hotel on the Euro- pean plan, with a first-class French cafe in connection. 4. The Chicago Manual Training School, Situated on the northwest corner of Twelfth Street and Michigan Boulevard, was erected in the spring of 1884. The materials used in its construction are cut-stone, red brick, and terra cotta. It has a frontage of 60 feet on VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 90 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. Michigan Boulevard and 160 feet on Twelfth Street. There are 4 stories and a large base- ment, all properly fitted up as a model train- ing school for education in all branches of manual labor, with proper intellectual in- struction. A history of this successful insti- tution has been written and published in book form by the Hon. Charles H. Ham, United States Appraiser. 5. The Hotel Stamford, On the northwest corner of Michigan Boule- vard and Thirteenth Street, has a frontage on Michigan Boulevard of 100 feet, depth 171 feet. The handsome exterior is of light- colored pressed brick and terra cotta. ft is thoroughly fire-proof, and has 300 rooms, reached by 2 passenger elevators. This building was erected in 1892, and has since been occupied as a European hotel. 6. The Hotel Imperial, Located near the Twelfth Street Station, on the southeast corner of Michigan Boule- vard and Twelfth Street, has a frontage of 100 feet on the former and 135 feet on the latter. It is 7 stories high, or 105 feet, equipped with 2 hydraulic passenger ele- vators. The exterior is of cut-stone, brick, and terra cotta, the interior being hand- somely decorated and finished in modern style. There are 300 guest-rooms, and all the conveniences of a first-class hotel. This structure cost $200,000 in 1891. 7. The Hotel Martinette, Situated on the northwest corner of Wabash Avenue and Twelfth Street, has frontages of 50 feet on Wabash Avenue and 100 feet on Twelfth Street. The exterior is of dark pressed brick and cut-stone. The building is 8 stories high, or 115 feet. The European plan has been adopted by the management of this hotel, there being 200 rooms and a first-class restaurant. Erected in 1892. 8. John Brown's Fort, Nos. 1339-1343 Wabash Avenue. The outer building is 50 feet in height, 80 feet deep, having a frontage of 75 feet. The old fort within is a low 1-story brick structure, con- taining 2 rooms and surmounted by a wooden tower 12 feet high. It was originally con- structed as a part of the United States arsenal at Harper's Ferry, W. Va. ; during the war it was occupied as a hospital by both the Federal and Confederate armies. Brown's personal rules, pikes with which he proposed to arm the negroes, personal letters, accouterments, swords, portraits, etc., of prominent generals, and many other relics of the great war are shown in con- nection with the old fort. It was removed from Harper's Ferry August, 1892, and erected in Chicago September, 1892. 0. The Veteran Protective Association Occupies the 2-story building on the south- west corner of Michigan Boulevard and Thirteenth Street. It has a frontage of 80 feet on Michigan Boulevard and 100 feet on Thirteenth Street, and is constructed of cut-stone and brick. The basement is occupied by a medium-priced restaurant. Erected in 1875. 1O. The Fourteenth Street Pumping Station Was erected in 1398, and contains the engines and pumps that furnish the water obtained from the new 4-mile crib. The building is 2 stories high, and has an exte- rior of cut-stone and red brick. It occupies the northwest corner of Indiana Avenue and Fourteenth Street. There are 3 high-press- ure pumps, with room for another when- ever a demand is made for more water in that district. AMUSEMENTS. 91 John Brown's Fort is the little engine-house that for over thirty years stood below the platform at the railroad station in Harper's Ferry now to be seen on Wabash Avenue near Thirteenth Street. In this building Ossawatomie Brown was brought to bay, wounded, and captured. Admission 50 cents. Many war- relics are also preserved here. Labyrinths. The best one is near the Elevated station on Congress Street, opposite Siegcl, Cooper & Co.'s. In this the mirrors aid in confusing the eye; a second staircase leads to another maze. The Magic Maze is on West Madison Street near Aberdeen. Both are new, and consequently little clouded with dust or tarnished by tune. Admission 25 cents. Lake excursions. Many steamboats provide excursions to Milwaukee, St. Joseph, Michigan City, and the Fair Grounds. It is often a good way to cool the blood in a hot spell. The great pier at Van Buren Street will show the way to the Fair Grounds. But the uninformed should examine the waves, for little ones on shore mean big ones outside. Libby Prison War Museum stands behind a handsome stone battlement on the east side of Wabash Avenue near Sixteenth Street. George E. Wright conceived the idea of removing the old Libby tobacco warehouse from Rich- mond to Chicago, and with the aid of a few men like C. F. Gunther it was suc- cessfully done. The rooms of the building are filled with relics, and the vis- itor should see the tailor's goose of Andrew Johnson, the will of John Brown, the details of the tunnel escape, two bullets that met in mid-air, manuscripts by all American generals, old currency, cannon-balls imbedded in trees on bat- tle-fields, arctic souvenirs, the great chain from Newberg, many historical por- traits, and war stationery. An afternoon devoted to the attractions in Libby Prison is instructive. Admission 50 cents. Libraries. The reference-rooms of the Newberry Library, on the North Side, at Washington Square, and of the Public Library, in the City Hall, are open to all. It is only necessary to take a seat and sign a blank for the book needed. Choose a " reference book," and it will not be " out." There are many literary treasures in each of these collections. Music-halls and balls. These are advertised in the morning and even- ing papers. Among the halls are Chickering, Kimball, Battery D (on Michi- gan Boulevard), Recital Hall (Auditorium), all the Turner halls, McDonald's Hall (near Cook County Hospital), Curran's Hall, the Socialists' halls, lodge- rooms, etc. The complete list is in the City Directory. Observatories. Masonic Temple, described in the article on "Notable Tall Buildings." Fee 25 cents. The Auditorium Tower, reached from the Con- gress Street entrance by elevator, seventeen stories. The Board of Trade Tower may be climbed to a certain height. There are towers at the World's Fair. The Waterworks Tower on Chicago Avenue is often open to climbers. 92 AMUSEMENTS. Panoramas. To the country visitor doubtless the cycloramas, of which there are now five in the city, will offer delight and surprise. The northern- most is opposite the Art Institute, and represents the Chicago Fire. It is more truly the burned district as it appeared on the morning of October 9, 1871. It is accurately historical, and should be seen. The color, however, is far too low in tone, a truer effect being obtained by viewing it through red glass. At Hubbard Court and Wabash Avenue will be found two similar exhibitions on opposite corners. The western one is Gettysburg, the first of our perma- nent institutions of this character. The illusions of these devices can not be described, and, although those of the Chicago Fire are perhaps best, all are interesting and remarkable. Across the way from Gettysburg is Jerusalem and the Crucifixion, and here the scene along the road-side is a faithfully presented picture, and a row of water- jars represented in the foreground is scarcely distinguishable from similar, yet actual, objects in close proximity. The entrance fee to these remarkable illusions and pictures is 50 cents, and you may stay as long as you please, an interesting lecture being delivered meanwhile. " Paris by Moonlight " was the first cyclorama seen in Chicago. It was shown in the Exposition Building in 1875. "Jerusalem," " The Siege of Paris," ' ' Shiloh," and the " Monitor and Merrimac " have since been exhib- ited to admiring throngs. The artist who gained greatest celebrity in this work had the alarming name of Philippoteaux. Street-cars. It is a favorite pastime of Chicagoans to mount the grip-car and ride out of town and back on summer nights. The ride past Washington Park, on the south cable; through Garfield Park, on the west cable; or past Lincoln Park, on the north cable, is both pleasant and beneficial to health. The Washington Park Association is a racing society annually draw- ing immense concourses to its " Derby " and other events. Extensive improve- ments were made during 1892, all the appointments now ranking with any of the famous race-courses of the East. The magnificent double decked grand- stand is the largest in the country, and is capable of holding 20,000 people. By means of recently constructed bridges, visitors can gain access to the grand-stand from either the steam or horse cars without haviug to cross the crowded roadway or mingle with the usual jam around the betting-ring. Over $200,000 in stakes and purses is annually offered by this Association, the American Derby, which includes among its entries some of the most famous thoroughbreds of England and America, being worth $50,000 to the winner. The track, eighty feet wide and one mile in circuit, is considered a fast one, numerous records having been broken thereon. Theater tickets are on sale at many of the hotels, and the telephone-book will give the number of any box-office in town, and the proper use of the instrument will save much personal annoyance. CLUBS. Popular definition. A club is composed of persons following similar pursuits or who are congenial in their tastes, who wish to have a place where they will be free from intrusion, enjoying the privacy of a home and having at their command comforts and conveniences, many of which the ordinary home does not furnish. Only the club members or their invited guests can obtain admission. Sometimes the club occupies a building of its own and sometimes it rents quarters. The members of a wealthy organization find within the walls of their club-house a restaurant, library, writing room, billiard-room, bowling-alley, card-room, parlors, music-room, ball-room, pict- ure-gallery, and sleeping-rooms. There are many clubs which have only a few of these conveniences, but which, nevertheless, play an important part in city social life. Each of them is supposed to be open at all times to its mem- bers, or during such hours as the latter may be likely to use its rooms. As no person can enter a club without the invitation of a member, and as the visitor may not count one among his Chicago acquaintances, it may be impossible for him to see anything of club life in Chicago. If he is fortunate enough to know any one who has the right to enter, and who asks him to be his guest there, he should not fail to avail himself of the opportunity. He will then be able to form some idea of the comforts and conveniences of Chicago clubs and of the hospitality of those who belong to them. But whether the visitor does or does not secure this most desirable privilege he will wish to know something about the leading clubs of Chicago, some of which, owing to the prominent part they have taken in national, municipal, or commercial questions, have a widely extended reputation. The Argo Club deserves mention on account of its quarters, which can be reached by crossing the Illinois Central tracks on the Randolph Street viaduct and going eastward to the end of the Illinois Central pier. The members, who are fond of aquatic sports, had a large and finely furnished boat-house built, which is moored at that point. It has a kitchen, store-rooms, gymnasium, state- rooms, etc.; and in summer evenings an orchestra plays on the promenade deck, while the members and their guests enjoy the cool lake breezes. The Associated Cycling Clubs. Chicago, with its many parks and miles of perfect boulevards, is often called the "cyclists' paradise." The club membership is reckoned at 5,000 wheelmen. The Pullman road race has been the annual event for the last six years. Among the most prominent cycling clubs, whose doors are always open to the visiting wheelmen, are the Chicago Cycling Club, Fifty-seventh and Lake Avenue; Illinois Cycling Club, 1068 Washington Boulevard; Lincoln Cycling Club, 1 Ogden Front. 193) 94 CLUBS. The Ashland Club began its existence not many years ago in the same block of residences that first gave shelter to the Illinois Club, ten years earlier. It soon moved to the great house at the northeast corner of Wood Street and Washington Boulevard, which it enlarged, perhaps with little advantage to the architectural beauty of the mansion itself, but with great gain in conven- ience. This is purely a social organization. The Calumet Club occupied, from 1883 until January of this year, when it was destroyed by fire, a handsome building at the northeast corner of Michigan Boulevard and Twentieth Street. The loss was a specially severe one because of the valuable paintings and historic relics which were burnt. This club has made a specialty of the early history of Chicago. For years it has been in the habit of giving an annual reception to the old settlers those who came here before 1840 and one of the rooms in the club-house was known as the " Old Settlers" room, and was filled with the valuable collec tions of years. The club is occupying temporary quarters at 2032 Calumet Avenue while the work of rebuilding is going on. The Carleton Club, 3800 Viucennes Avenue, was incorporated March 13, 1887, and now numbers 300 members. A model little stage and theater audi- ence-room will be ready in June or July of this year, for the production of the play which shall receive the $500 prize in the competition just closed. This club has always been foremost in amateur theatrical work, and has graduated into professional ranks such actors as Franklin Wentworth, Charles Went- worth, and Olive May. Edwin H. Hatch and Allen B. Forbes have perhaps done more than any other two members to bring the club to its present success. The Chicago Athletic Association, 124^126 Michigan Avenue, has for its object the promotion of physical culture and manly sports, being composed largely of young men, and occupies quarters already described in our chapter on "Notable High Buildings." In futherance of its design, football and base- ball teams will represent the Association during the season, and in the autumn a tournament will be held at the South Side Baseball Park. The Chicago Club. This has the reputation of being a rich man's club. Its first real home was in the big building opposite the Monroe Street entrance of the Palmer House; it moved thence to the old Art Institute, at the corner of Van Buren Street and Michigan Avenue, in 1892, and there it is expected to maintain its fame as a generous entertainer of distinguished visitors to whom Chicago ought to extend a most cordial welcome. N. K. Fairbank is one of the most prominent members, and Marshall Field has been four times vice-president. The name of the first of these gentlemen is often mentioned in the papers in connection with important social events as well as great business enterprises. When the boxes have to be sold for opera festivals or charity balls, Mr. Fairbank is called on to play the part of auctioneer, and coax high bids from Chicago millionaires. The Chicago Club has entertained Grant, CLUBS. 95 Hayes, Garfleld, Sheridan, the Princess Louise, and other celebrities. Out of this club, as a kind of " brotherhood," sprang the even more celebrated organ- ization called the Commercial Club, a close circle of sixty merchants, bankers, manufacturers, etc., without a club-house, who discuss great questions at their monthly banquets in the presence of honored guests. The Commercial Club of Boston has visited the Chicago organization in a body, and the visit has been returned. The Commercial Club acts as well as discusses. Its members founded the Manual Training School on Michigan Boulevard at Fourteenth Street, where boys are taught to work in wood and metal, and gave the Federal Government the land for Fort Sheridan, north of the city. The Chicago Electric Club has apartments at 103 Adams Street, and electricians visiting the city should request their friends to secure their admis- sion into this circle of scientists. The comfortable quarters of this club are near Kinsley's Cafe", which is reached through connecting corridors. The Chicago Society of Artists was organized in the fall of 1887 by a num- ber of art lovers, its object being the advancement and study of art in all its branches. A course of lectures by prominent artists is given throughout the year to regular members. This society has finely furnished and equipped rooms in the Athenaeum Building, No. 26 Van Buren Street, where smoke- talks are given once a month for the benefit of friends and members of the press. The annual exhibition of oil-paintings occurs in April of each year, at which time the Charles T. Yerkes cash prizes are awarded. The black-and- white exhibit, for publishers and engravers, takes place in February, and two annual sales are held the sketch sale in November and the holiday sale in December. The society numbers fifty life, thirty-eight associate, fifty-five annual, and four honorary members, Joseph Jefferson himself an admirable artist and Charles T. Yerkes being among the latter. The Chicago Women's Club, organized in 1876, is a society originally dedicated to literary pursuits, but in later years identified chiefly with various charitable schemes, among which may be mentioned the Protective Agency for Women and Children, the Industrial Art Association, and the establishment of free kindergartens, inaugurating the system in Chicago. The Industrial School for Boys, located at Glenwood, is also due to,the untiring efforts of this admirable organization. The Douglas Club is located at No. 3518 Ellis Avenue, occupying a three-story building surrounded by a spacious and beautiful lawn. Lady vis- itors belonging to the families of members enjoy all the privileges of the club, which is amply provided with means of social entertainment. Farragut Boat Club is one of the oldest boating associations in the West. Its members are mostly young business men residing on the South Side. The club-house is located at 3016 Lake Park Avenue, and is a model building of brownstone and brick. The boat-house is near the corner of Thirty-third street 96 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. The Wholesale District, North on Market Street. The view presented on the opposite page is especially notable and instruct- ive on account of the presence of the river, and shows the facilities for load- ing and unloading that are offered to lake shipping. There are over 25 miles of similar dockage within the city limits, without reference to the Calumet River and Calumet Lake region for Chicago now has two harbors on Lake Michigan. The bridge at Madison Street is of the largest and late-t pattern, with steam motor. The Washington Street bridge has been but lately put where jt is, for the structure is an old one displaced from Madison Street. Beneath the bridge and the river runs the Washington Street tunnel, through which pass many millions of people annually, on the cars of the West and Northwest cables. The foreground of the picture is in the heart of the whole- sale district. After the Great Fire, the heavy wholesale men moved hither from Lake Street. 1. The Jewett Building:, At the northwest corner of Market and Mon- roe streets, is an old-style 6-story structure, erected in 1874, 95 feet high, with 3 freight elevators. Its exterior is of brick and iron, and its great area may be understood by the statement that it has a frontage of 280 feet on Monroe and 100 on Market Street. It is partly occupied by the well-known whole- sale clothing firm of Kohn Brothers, and partly as a warehouse. 2. The Old Farwell Block Is a still larger edifice of similar history, fronting the whole of the north side of Mon- roe Street between Franklin and Market. It was built after the Great Fire, to accom- modate one of the two largest dry-goods houses in the West, and fronts 189 feet on Franklin, 330 on Monroe, and 120 on Market. It is a 5-story stone-front, 85 feet high, with 8 freight elevators, and, since its relinquish- ment by the Farwells, has been occupied by wholesale clothiers, wholesale dealers in hats and caps and boots and shoes, and manufacturers and manufacturers 1 agents. The year of its erection was 1873. 3. The Field Building, At the northeast corner of Monroe and Franklin streets, is a 6-story stone-front of the old style, with 100 feet on Monroe and 185 on Franklin, 80 feet high. It has 3 freight elevators, and is occupied by wholesale clothiers and jewelers. It was erected in 1874, and is only one of very many similar Field buildings on the South Side. 4. The Commercial Trade Building, At the southwest corner of Madison and Franklin streets, is a striking piece of old- style architecture, the designer having se- cured many novel effects with the simple material at command. The frontages are 50 feet on Madison and 185 on Franklin, with a height of 90 feet in 5 stories and basement. The exterior is of brick and iron, showing long rows of arches at the sidewalk. One passenger elevator and 2 freight elevators. The occupants are the Ames Sword Co., and wholesalers of boots and shoes, jobbers, agents, and others. It was erected at the close of the panic times, in 1878. 5. The Mullen Building, At the southwest corner of Madison and Market streets, occupies 40 feet on Madison and 100 feet on Market, 75 feet high, 5 stories and basement, brick exterior, with iron beams, and follows generally the description of an old-fashioned city business block. It is occupied by wholesale jobbers and manu- facturers' agents. Erected in 1878. 6. The Norton Mill, At the west end on the north side of the Madison Street bridge, is 40 feet wide, 80 feet deep, and 60 feet high. It shows many cracks in its walls, yet sturdily defies the tooth of time. The elevator which is seen in its rear actually did collapse in 1892, with a large loss of grain. 7. The Central Union Block, At the northwest corner of Madison and Market streets, is one of Chicago's most creditable structures. After the Great Fire a brick building was hastily erected, and here, on the river front, the Chicago Board of Trade held its daily sessions for several years. Here the celebrated Sturges corn corner broke. Market Street is in reality a plaza, and taking advantage of their oppor- tunities, the owners of the ground, in 1890, erected a fine brick and stone edifice of 6 stories and basement, with 220 feet on Mar- ket and 180 feet facing an inclined surface along Madison Street going up to the bridge. VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 97 98 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. There are 12 stores, 622 offices, and 4 passen- ger elevators, with about 1,900 occupants, who are engaged in various industries and trades. The Central Union is also mentioned in our chapter on "Notable High Buildings." ' 8. The Old Marshall Field Wholesale Building, At the northeast corner of Madison and Market streets, was hurriedly erected in 1872, to serve the owner's great dry goods houses, both wholesale and retail. On its site, before the Great Fire, stood the Gar- den City Hotel. The frontages are 240 feet on Madison and 180 on Market Street, and the 5-story building is remarkable for the number of its solid iron shutters, which have always been closed at the end of business hours. The value of the goods which have passed through this house would doubtless reach ten figures. It possessed the unusual convenience of a loading-place on Market Street, where traffic could never be engorged. The exterior is of the plainest brick. There are 4 freight elevators, and it is still largely uaed as a warehouse for the firm, which moved first its retail business to the splen- did quarters at Washington and State streets, and after many years the wholesale to the granite structure at Adams Street and Fifth Avenue. A part of the old store is occupied by jobbers, manufacturers, and other denizens of the wholesale district. 9. The Abt & Fautl Building, At the northwest corner of Madison and Franklin streets, is a 4-story and basement structure with Mansard roof. It is a stone- front of 1874, with frontages of 80 feet on Madison and 25 on Franklin, 85 feet high. The building is occupied by wholesale jewel- ers, manufacturers, and manufacturers' agents. 1O. The Central Manufacturing- Block, At the southwest corner of Washington and Market streets, is a long and high block, given over completely to machinery, and haunted by inventors and machinists of all kinds. It fronts 240 feet on Market and 60 feet on Washington, is 65 feet high, and has 6 floors in all. It was built in 1872. 11. The Woolensack Building:, At the southeast corner of West Washing- ton and South Canal streets, can be seen only from the rear, but is here mentioned because it was erected as lately as 1892. Its dimensions are 120 feet on Washington, 80 feet on South Canal; height, 95 feet, with 7 stories and basement. The exterior is brick, stone, and iron. There are 2 freight eleva- tors. It is occupied by manufacturers. CLUBS. 99 and Lake Park Avenue, and is finely equipped with shells, gigs, and racing-boats of every description. This club is a member of the National Mississippi Valley Association, and is largely represented at its annual regattas. The Fortnightly Club was organized iu 1873 as a society devoted to woman's suffrage. It is now distinguished for its social intercourse and intel- lectual culture, stimulated by an admirable system of annual essays delivered by members of the club and designed to illustrate topics of general interest. The membership is limited to 175. The club until recently has held weekly meetings at the old Art Institute now the property of the Chicago Club corner of Michigan Avenue and Van Buren Street. The Germania Maennerchor has an attractive and valuable building on North Clark Street at the corner of Germauia Place. It has among its mem- bers many persons of American as well as of German parentage. Artists, sing- ers, and players enjoy its many privileges. One of the first things the music- loving Germans did after settling in Chicago was to organize musical societies and choral unions, and for over a quarter of a century the Germania has done effective service in the cause of melody. The Grant Club. The chief spirit in this organization was possibly S. M. Randolph, the architect. The club first occupied a residence on Washington Boulevard, east of Union Park, but finally moved to 111 Honore Street. As its name indicates, its political sympathies are Republican. The Hamilton Club is a political-social organization of about 200 mem- bers, mostly lawyers and physicians. It was organized in April, 1890, and occupies a temporary home at 21 Groveland Park during the erection of their new building on Michigan Avenue near Twenty-ninth Street. A banquet is given on January 20th of each year in celebration of the birthday of Alexander Hamilton. On these occasions the club is addressed by several Republican orators of national repute. The Illinois Club occupies a mansion of double width at 154 Ashland Boulevard, on the cast side of the street, between Adams and Jackson. Its art-gallery and ball-room is a beautiful place, and its receptions are frequent and p'easant. The wives and daughters of members are welcome guests at this club-house and enjoy its privileges to au unusual extent. This organiza- tion was formed and had its first rooms in a private residence which stood at the southwest corner of Ashland Boulevard and Madison Street. The Illinois Women's Press Association is an organization designed for mutual benefit and entertainment, meeting at No. 1533 Masonic Temple on the second Thursday of each month. The Indiana Club, at 3349 Indiana Avenue, is ten years old, and extends all its privileges to the families of members. It has a dancing-hall, and during the winter season entertainments are given at regular intervals. 100 CLUBS. The Irish-American Club is over ten years old, and lias apartments at 40 Dearborn Street, near the river. It has always taken an active' part in all move- ments which appealed to the warm feelings and generous sympathies of the Celtic race. All Irishmen temporarily residing in the city should strive to obtain an introduction to this cultivated circle. The Iroquois Club has no permanent home as yet, though it is preparing to secure one. It has rooms in the Columbia Theater Building, on the south side of Monroe Street near Dearborn, which it has occupied for a decade. Being the leading Democratic organization of Chicago, this club has a national as well as a local reputation. The banquets of the Iroquois Club have been attended by some of the most prominent Democratic statesmen, and the voices of the most eloquent orators of the party have been heard there. Among the members are such well-known men as Chief Justice Melville W. Fuller, William C. Goudy, and Potter Palmer. The club has over 500 mem- bers, among whom are the best-known Democrats of Chicago. The Kenwood Club, located at Forty-seventh Street and Lake Avenue, in its general character follows the plan of the Illinois on a still more liberal scale. Mr. Norman B. Judd once owned its club-house. Congressman Aldrich has been one of the leaders in this club. The Lakeside Club began at Wabash Avenue and Thirteenth Street, and moved to its own home, nearly two miles south, on Indiana Avenue beyond Thirty-first Street. It has a ball-room, a gymnasium, a bowling alley, and a dining-room that will seat 400 guests. The Menoken Club is a prominent West Side social organization, occupy- ing temporary quarters at 1299 West Madison Street. Its object is the culti- vation of social intercourse, literature, and the fine arts. The club has pur- chased large grounds on Washington Boulevard, near Francisco Street, and is completing arrangements for the erection of a spacious club building. The Marquette Club, at 365 Dearborn Avenue, on the North Side, has been in existence but a few years. The house belonged to, and was occupied at the time of his death by, Elihu B. Washburne, long a member of Congress from II inois, and Minister to France during President Grant's administration. It has filled the need on the North Side of a family meeting place, similar to the Illinois, La Salle, and Ashland on the West Side, and the Oakland and Farragut on the South Side. It is strongly Republican in sentiment, and has taken an active part in local politics. Its quarters are spacious and elegant. The North Shore Club is a family social organization having a permanent home at No. 1835 Wellington Avenue. Here entertainments are given every Friday evening throughout the fall and winter months. It has a total of 150 members, among whom may be mentioned Governor Altgeld, and was organ- ized in the autumn of 1887. CLUBS. 101 The Oakland Club, at Ellis and Oakwood avenues, occupies the site for- merly used by the Lakeside Skating Rink, the latter having been thoroughly remodeled and now forming a large two story brick structure, notable for its artistic effect. This is strictly a family club, and ils regulations in regard to gambling and drinking are unusually stringent. The Press Club of Chicago was organized in 1879 in the rooms which it still occupies, at 133 Clark Street, third floor (no elevator). The club hopes to build a house of its own on Michigan Avenue, near Monroe Street. The late Franc B. Wilkie and Melville E. Stone were the founders. Many, but by no means all, of the journalists belong to the Press Club, and writers not directly connected with the press are not excluded. There are about 250 mem- bers, and the dues are but $20 a year. The club extends an invitation to all workers on the daily press outside of Chicago to make themselves known at the club-rooms, and visitors' tickets will be issued to them under such condi- tions as the situation may render necessary, it being the hope of the club that it may keep open house during the Fair. The Sheridan Club-house, southwest corner of Forty-first Street and Michigan Avenue, is an imposing structure of Romanesque design, furnished with all the interior appointments constituting a first-class social rendezvous. The members of the club are young men of social position, whose entertain- ments and receptions are attended by the elite of fashionable life. It is a flourishing organization, the membership reaching 300 or more, and the present, its first, home was erected at a cost of about $100,000. The Standard Club. The Jews have a fine club at Michigan Avenue and Twenty-fourth Street. It took the name from Standard Hall, which they bought. The commodious building is handsomely furnished. Here, in a large private theater, the members find many enjoyments that are dmied to those who belong to the other family clubs of Chicago. The Hebrew Charity Ball, a leading social event of each year, has its origin in this club, whose members have always been active in charitable as well as social matters. The Twentieth Century Club was organized as a social-literary society November 9, 1889. Its first entertainment, held at the home of Mrs. George Pullman, was addressed by Charles Dudley Warner. Since that time a num- ber of the most noted authors and actors of the present day have been enter- tained by this club, notably, F. Marion Crawford, Thomas Nelson Page, George Riddle, Joe Jefferson, Salvini, and E. C. Willard. The officers are: C. D. Hamill, president; Mrs. Charles Henrotin and L. C. Collins, vice-presidents; Mrs. George R. Grant, secretary. The Union Club has a large and handsome house on the southwest corner of Dearborn Avenue and Washington Place, fronting on Washington Square, and looking over toward the Newberry Library. The day before the building was to be turned over by the contractors to the club it caught fire, and the 102 CLUBS. entire interior was destroyed. This organization, -which is the leading one of the North Side, has never taken any part in political or municipal affairs. It has been conducted strictly in accordance with the definilion of a club given at the beginning of this chapter. The house is elegantly furnished, is con- veniently situated being but one block from the Clark Street cable-line and possesses all the distinguishing features of a first-class club. The Union League Club. This organization occupies a building facing the south front of the Post Office, on Jackson Street between Clark and Dear- born streets. Its first home was in the Honore Block, at the northwest corner of Dearborn and Adams streets, nearby; and its restaurant, even in those days, (1879) was a good one. While a majority of the members are Republicans, it has taken no part in partisan politics, but has been prominent in the advocacy of governmental reforms in the State and the city. It was a leader in the movement for the adoption of the present city election law, which has done so much toward purifying elections. It has for some years honored Washington's birthday by getting some person of national reputation to deliver a public address here 011 that day. Among the most distinguished of them may be mentioned the late James Russell Lowell, and in 1893 Rev. Edward Everett Hale. The observance, with appropriate exercises, of the 22d of February by the children of the Chicago public schools was due to the efforts of the club. This organization has also taken a warm and intelligent interest in such subjects as the cleaning of the streets, the abatement of llic smoke nuisance, the removal of garbage, etc. The club has done much work for the Fair. Ferdinand W. Peck, H. N. Higinbotham, and other members of the Direc- tory are active members of the Union League. The University Club. The college graduate coming to the city may easily find a member of the University Club who will be glad lo give him a card of admission to its rooms. The upper floors of the University Building, on Dearborn Street, between Washington and Madison streets, are entirely occupied by this well-established club, whose membership is composed exclu- sively of graduates of the leading American colleges. Washington Park Club is one of the most prominent social organi- zations of Chicago. It has a handsome club-house a few hundred feet west of the grand-stand, facing Sixty-first Street and South Park Avenue, with a mag- nificent lawn, and a veranda capable of accommodating 2,000 people on Derby Day. Gen. Phil Sheridan acted aspi-esident of this club from its organization, November, 1883. up to the time of his death. There are about 900 members, comprising the elite of the city, who throng the boulevards leading southward with their fashionable turnouts on Derby Day of each year. The Whitechapel Club has rooms on Calhoun Place between Washing- ton and Madi=on streets, near La Salle Street. Its members make a specialty of the bizarre and the horrible, and the visitor finds a scarlet-fever card on CLUBS. 103 the door as he enters. The membership is small, but the hospitality is unlim- ited. The drinking-table is horseshoe-shaped, the council-table is coffin-shaped, and skulls, handcuffs, weapons, and mementos of noted murderers are visible on all sides. Most of the members are reporters. Other Clubs. The suburbs nearly all have clubs organized on the plan of the Indiana, Oakland, and Illinois, and there are many banqueting societies, which, while they often claim considerable space in the public press, are not entitled to be called clubs in the sense in which the word is now used. Among the dinner and debating clubs which have existed for several years are the Single Tax Club (address W. W. Bailey, Daily News Recwd), the Sunset Club (inquire at the Grand Pacific Hotel), the Literary Club (inquire at the Art Institute, or of Gen. A. C. McClurg), the Forty Club (inquire of E. Frei- berger, Inter Ocean), the Club Litteraire Franfais (inquire of W. T. Under- wood, 21,97 Clark Street), and The Congregational, Presbyterian, and other religious clubs, which have banquets at stated intervals. There are innumer- able organizations in the city, in some one of which each visitor may take a keen interest. Among these are secret , societies, labor associations, and church bodies. In many instances, also, those belonging to the professions, such as architects, artists, physicians, etc., have their special organizations. A visitor desiring information regarding any of the above will find names and addresses set forth in detail in the Cily Directory, a copy of which may be consulted in any drug-store, or at the offices of leading hotels. VIEWS OF ciitcAao. Within the Heavy Wholesale District. No greater transformation ever befell a locality than the changes wrought by the Great Fire in the region of Chicago which is portrayed on the oppo- site page. On the night of October 8, 1871, there lived on these squares a closely setjfled colony of the very poor, the vicious, and the criminal. Franklin Street did not extend south of Madison. At Market Street, on the north side of Adams, were the gas-works. On the south side of Adams, the Armory Police Court Building had just received the finishing touches of an all-summer's remodeling, whereby its walls had been lifted a story. Fifth Avenue was then Wells Street, and though it boasted the best buildings of the quarter, they were all low frame shops and sheds. Sidewalks were sometimes seven feet higher in one place than in another, and such grogshops as the Dew Drop Inn made the section notorious as well as disreputable. Into this " Conley's Patch," as it was called, ran the then terrible Quincy and Jackson streets, and it is not likely that there is yi Chicago to-day a purlieu so low. Not a vestige of this former criminal life remains. Neither buildings, monu- ments, landmarks, nor topography hint of the old Chicago of Conley's Patch. In its place are the trading-rooms and store-rooms of the leading wholesalers, who are now happily freed from the restrictions once laid on traffic in a nar- rower part of the city. On the left side of Monroe Street, at Franklin, is the site of Brother Moody's Tabernacle, in 1876. The wholesale stores of Field, Farwell, Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co., Walker, aril Phelps, Dodge & Palmer, and the office building of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy are included in the scene. 1. The O wings Building, At 232-236 Fifth Avenue, now owned by Manclel Bros., is 80 feet wide, 100 feet deep, and 120 feet high, with 7 stories and base- ment. The front is of cut-stone and steel. There is 1 passenger and 2 freight elevators. Itoe occupants are wholesale jobbers. Hrected in 1886. 2. The Marshall Field & Co. Building ("Wholesale). This structure one of the most impressive in the whole world is described in our chapter on "Notable High Buildings," al- though the building is an exception in that category of edifices. While only partial attempts were made to fire-proof its inte- rior, the outer walls have 110 equal for solid- ity in the city. Great monoliths of red granite compsse the exterior to the cornice of the upper or seventh story. Inner parti- tions of iron, shutters of iron, and a well- disciplined watch, add to the security of the colossal house. It fronts on the south side *f Adams 325 feet, on Franklin Street and Fifth Avenue UK) feet, and is 130 feet high, with 7 stories and basement. There are 13 elevators, 12 acres of floor space, and 1,800 employes. The visitor may enter and look about for a moment, beholding a wonderful hive of actual, time-saving trade. Erected in 1886. 3. Phelps, Dodge & Palmer Building Fronts 80 feet on Adams Street and 180 feet on Fifth Avenue, at the northwest corner. It is 95 feet high, with 6 stories and base- ment; pressed-brick and terra-cotta exte- rior; 2 passenger elevators and 3 freight ele- vators. It is occupied by Phelps, Dodge & Palmer, wholesale jobbers and manufact- urers of boots and shoes, and by wholesale jobbers of clothing. Erected in 1888 after a destructive fire. 4. The "Williams Block Fronts 180 feet on Fifth Avenue and 100 feet on Monroe Street, at the southwest corner. It is 95 feet high, with 6 stories and basement. There are 3 freight and 2 pas- senger elevators', brick and cut-stone exter- ior. The structure is occupied by whole- VIEWS OF CHICAGO. 105 106 VIEWS OF CHICAGO. sale jobbers of clothing and woolen goods. Erected in 1874. 5. The C.. B. & Q. Railway Building: Fronts 120 feet on Adams and 176 feet on Franklin Street, at the northeast corner. It is one of the fire-proof buildings of the new era, and has a fine quadrilateral interior court with balconies. It is 96 feet high, in 6 stories and basement. There are 65 offices and 3 passenger elevators, with about 400 occupants. The heavy walls are made of pressed brick with stone for trimmings. Here are the general offices of the ''Q. 11 Erected in 1882, among the pioneers of the better buildings. 6. The Hovey Building Fronts ICO feet on Franklin Street and 40 feet on Monroe Street, at the southwest corner. It is 90 feet high, with 5 stories; cut-stone and iron exterior; 3 freight eleva- tors. The structure is occupied by whole- sale jobbers of clothing, and manufacturers' agents. Erected in 1873. 7. Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co.'s Building- Fronts 160 feet on Franklin Street and 140 feet on Adams Street, at the northwest cor- ner. It is 105 feet high, with 6 stories; cut- stone and iron exterior; occupied by the wholesale dry-goods house of Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co. Erected in 1875. 8. Mercantile Company Building, Leased by Clement, Bane & Confronts 125 feet on Franklin Street and 100 feet on Adams Street, at the southwest corner. It is 125 feet high, with 8 stories; cut-stone, brick, and terra-cotta exterior ; 2 passenger and 3 freigfit elevators. It is occupied by wholesale jobbers of shoes, clothing, and dry goods. Erected in 1886. 9. The Robert Law Building: Fronts 90 feet on Quincy Street and 80 feet on Franklin Street, at the southwest corner. It is 110 feet high, with 7 stories; rough- hewn stone and brick exterior; 1 passenger and 2 freight elevators. It is occupied by wholesale jobbers of clothing, boots, and shoes. Erected in 1887. 10. The Willoughby Building: Fronts 30 feet on Jackson and 75 feet on Franklin Street, at the northwest corner. It is 100 feet high, with 8 stories and base- ment; 1 passenger elevator; cut-stone and iron exterior. Occupied by wholesale job- bers and importers. Erected in 1887. 11. The Boddie Block Fronts 120 feet on Franklin and 160 feet on Jackson Street, at the southwest corner. It is 95 feet high, with 6 stories; cut-stone, brick, and terra-cotta exterior. Erected in 1883; remodeled in 1893. 12. McCormick Block. This very conspicuous structure appears across the head of Market Street at Van Buren Street, because of the eastern divis- ion of the river. The building fronts 160 feet on Market Street and 95 feet on Van Buren Street, at the southwest corner. It is 100 feet high with 8 stories, and the walls are of cut-stone, brick, and terra-cotta. There are 2 freight and 1 passenger elevators. The occupants are wholesale jobbers and manufacturers of clothing. Erected in 1887. 13. The Chalmers Building Fronts 75 feet on Van Buren Street and 50 feet on Market Street, at the northwest corner. It is 90 feet high, with 7 stories; cut-stone and brick exterior; 2 freight eleva- tors, 1 passenger elevator. Occupied by wholesale jobbers of clothing. Erected in 1889. 14. The McCormick Building Fronts 100 feet on Jackson Street and 80 feet on Market Street, at the southwest cor- ner. It is 95 feet high, with 8 stories and basement; brick and terra-cotta exterior; passenger elevators, 4 freight elevators. Occupied by wholesale jobbers and im- porters. Erected in 1887. 15. The Yondorf Building Fronts 40 feet on Market Street and 100 feet on Quincy Street, at the southeast corner. It is 135 feet high, with 10 stories ; 1 passen- ger elevator and 2 freight elevators: brick and iron exterior. Occupied by wholesale jobbers of clothing. Erected in 1874; re- modeled in 1892. 16. The Mailers Building Fronts 140 feet on Jackson and 160 feet on Market Street, at the northwest corner. It is 95 feet high, with 7 stories; pressed cream- brick and cut-stone exterior; 3 passenger and 4 freight elevators. The building is occupied by wholesale jobbers of clothing, shoes, and silks. Erected in 1092. 17. The Ryerson Building. This magnificent structure, whose Norman arches of granite are the first architectural exhibit of Chicago to be seen by the visitor who arrives at the Union Passenger Station, and comes over the Adams Street bridge near by, resembles the Grand Central Sta- tion in its outer walls. The interior follows the plan of wooden pillars, adopted in Marshall Field's wholesale store. The Adams Street front is on an incline of 152 feet, lead- ing to the bridge on the south side of the street. The Market Street front is 166 feet. The building is 98 feet high, with 6 stories and basement. It is occupied as the whole- sale dry-goods store 'of James H. Walker & Co., with 300 employes. There are 5 elevators. 18. The Farwell Block Stands on Market, Adams, and Monroe streets and the river bank, presenting an imposing front from the Adams Street bridge. Its frontages are 180 feet on Adams and Monroe streets and 340 feet on Market Street and the river. The block is 95 feet high, with 6 stories; brick and cut-stone exterior. It is occupied by wholesale job bers of clothing, hats and caps, and dry goods. There are 2 passenger and 6 freight elevators. Erected in 1886. BEAUTIFUL LIGHTS AT NIGHT. A stranger may mL-s in Chicago the evening promenades familiar in foreign capitals; but it should be remembered that new Chicago is only twenty-five years old; that industry has been very great here; that transportation has been poor, and territorial spaces very wide. It is only within recent years that the streets at night have begun to present an animated and artistic scene, and there are now many stretches of light and beauty which may well command the admiration of the visitor. It is doubtful whether any city in the world has been more active and liberal in the use of electric illumination than Chi- cago. The lavish displays everywhere visible are, moreover, marked by exceeding taste and originality, and reflect the highest credit upon the public spirit and esthetic insight of their designers. State Street to Congress. The shop windows of Marshall Field & Co., the Columbus Memorial, Manclel Brothers, Schlesinger & Mayer, the Palmer House, and Siegel, Cooper & Co. on the east side, and a hundred windows, even more brilliant, on the west side of the street, the Beehive, etc., deserve special mention; while at the corner of Adams Street Berry's crystal palace and the onyx entrance of the American Oyster House are rare attractions At Lyon & Healy's, northwest corner of Slate and Monroe streets, the entire front is dressed in colored electric bulbs. These throw red, blue, yel- low, orange, green, white, etc., one shade at a time, and prismatically all together, forming scenes of bewildering loveliness. Siegel, Cooper & Co. There is an electric display over the main entrance a circle, in the center of which burns in colors the distinct outline of the American eagle. The street numbers are shown in electric bulbs. High lights. The Great Northern Hotel displays, at an altitude of sixteen stories, semicircles of electric lamps, wliicli may be seen from Dearborn and Jackson streets, and the Masonic Temple's illuminations, three or four stories higher still, produce a magical effect upon the beholder. There are also beautiful lights at State Street bridge. The highest light in the city is the lantern in the tower of the Audi- .torium, by which the federal signal service displays by night information concerning the approach or absence of storms, a red light meaning danger to navigation and a white light fair weather. Dearborn and Madison streets. The hanging lights of the Inter Ocean and the colored window illumination of the Tribune are both attractive, and in connection with them news bulletins are often displayed to immense and excited throngs on occasions of public moment. (10T) 108 BEAUTIFUL LIGHTS AT NIGHT. Clark and Madison streets. Here the clothing house of Willoughby, Hill & Co. hung the first electric lights seen in Chicago. Diagonally opposite is Atwood's, and a little north is the splendid illumination of the Frogs. Madison Street bridge. The scene looking to Western Avenue and to Lake Michigan at night, under high electric lamp-posts, is one decidedly strik- ing, and it is a matter of pride that the city owns every electric light in its streets. This signal advantage we owe to Professor Barrett. The Madison cable-car goes westward under an arcade of white light, passing between dis- plays of domestic luxuries of every description. Halsted and Madison streets. This is one of the most metropolitan localities in Chicago at night. Here numerous windows with ever-changing dressing express tlie taste, enterprise, and liberality of their proprietors. From the Haymarket Theater may be seen the tastefully decorated shop-windows extending from Union to Green streets, or two blocks. The Herald's lights are exceedingly tasteful, a good search-light being used on special occasions. Eight arc-lights hang on the faade and an electric transparency, distinctly legible, is thrown across the street. Clark and Lake streets. Here on the southeast corner may be seen the electric illuminated sign of a clothier. Many Edison bulbs form the name of the firm in old script, the light of the Christian name being intermittent. On the northeast corner a rival clothier displays a magnified semicircle of burners. In various windows, particularly on Clark between Madison and Wash- ington streets, displays of great beauty may be seen. In an optician's window on Wabash Avenue near Madison, and in other similar establishments, revolv- ing tubes filled with hydrogen convey visible electric currents through their lengths, presenting entrancing spectacles to the newly arrived visitor. The Elevated road. An evening trip of rare interest and pleasure to the World's Fair visitor is by the South Side Elevated road. Starting at Congress Street and running to Jacksou Park the route offers many beautiful vistas of lights at night. Great avenues, like Michigan and Garfield boulevards, open to the spectator's view, at the railroad crossings, entrancing lines of receding lights, and all the west-running thoroughfares offer illimitable stretches of illumination. Nearing Sixty-first Street the commanding site and graceful surroundings of the Washington Park Club House are visible, their attrac- tion greatly enhanced by electric displays illumining the spacious double veranda, and encircling the roof of the tower with a ring of dazzling brilliancy. Turning eastward, again, on Sixty-third Street, the sky is ablaze with the innumerable lights that sparkle upon the domes and minarets within the Fair Grounds, the reflection of tbcir combined splendor reaching to the zenith. The theaters. The Chicago Opera House has an illuminated portal and McVicker's Theater is brilliant with lights. The Grand Opera House illuminos the name of its current attraction. Hooley's and the Sherman House are both BEAUTIFUL LIGHTS AT NIGHT. 109 bright. The Columbia Theater's hanging colored lamps are exquisitely beau- tiful, and the Schiller Theater is very generous in its use of lights. Country to city. The shops, the theaters, the restaurants, the billiard- halls, the bars, the roof and summer gardens, even the street cars, seem alive with light for it is literally true that the genius of Edison has added a thou- sand beauties to the night. The visitor from the country can scarcely fail to be impressed by the brilliancy of an evening in town. Two Great Railway Stations. On the opposite page, in two separate pictures, are presented descriptive views of two of the seven great stations of Chicago. At the top or outside of the page is the scene at the Dearborn Station, on Polk Street, at the head of Dearborn Street, from which the terminal takes its name. In front of the Dearborn Station is the large Donohue & Henneberry Building. At the bottom, or inside of the page, is the Union Passenger Station at Canal and Adams streets. The Adams Street bridge divides this structure. Beyond is the South Branch of the Chicago River. 1. The Dearborn Station. When this beautiful building was erected, it was one of the principal architectural spectacles of the town, and its Flemish tower and brazen dragon still attract the visitor's eye. It stands in front of Dearborn Street, which in 30 years has been extended clear from Madison Street. The fire-places of the interior and other ornate and useful appoint- ments should be noticed. The frontages are 212 feet on Polk Street, 44*5 feet on Plymouth Place, and 188 feet on Custom House Place. It is 80 feet high, with 3 stories and base- ment; height of tower 166 feet. The train- shed is 600 feet long, with 8 tracks, each accommodating 12 coaches and engines. One hundred and twenty-two trains arrive and depart daily, and 17,000 suburban and through passengers are carried daily. The Chicago & Eastern Illinois, the Chicago & Erie, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, the Louisville, New Albany & Chicago, the Wabash, the Chicago & Grand Trunk, and the Chicago