'^^^^ « THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS :/ m * t LIBRARY an. 7 IILINOIS HISTORICAL SURVEY T^T^i^-'. **■ ... >^ ^.^ ^y JAMES' K I V E R GUIDE: CONTAINING DESCKIPTIONS OF ALL THE CITIES, TOWNS, AND PEINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST, ON THE NAVIGABLE TITERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY, FLOWING WEST FROM THE ALLEOnANY MOUNTAINS, EAST FROM THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, AND SOUTH FROM NEAR THE NORTHERN LAKES, INCLUDING THE RIVERS OF ALABAMA AND TEXAS, FLOWING INTO THE GULF OF MEXICO : ALSO, AN ACCOUNT OF THE SOURCES OF THE RIVERS; , WITH FULL TABLES OF DISTANCES, AND MANY INTERESTING HISTORICAL SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY, STATISTICS OF POPULATION, PRODUCTS, COJIMERCE, MANUFACTtTRES, MINERAL BB- SOURCES, Scenery, &c., &c. ILLUSTRATED WITH FORTY-FOUS MAPS, AND A NUMBER OF ENGRAVINGS. ^"' t. CINCINNATI: PUBLISHED BY U. P. JAMES. '* 167 WALNUT STREET. 1857. PUBLISIIEE^S NOTICE. The former edition of the River Guide, published under the name of " Conclms New River Guide," is embodied in this edition so far as it suits the present time. The work has been tliorouglily revised and cor- rected, very much enlarged, in amount of matter, and brought down to the latest date. It is confidently believed that the book is now as com- plete and accurate as it is possible to make a work of this character. To the traveler on the Western Waters desiring correct information respecting the Rivers, Towns, Products and Resources of the country, it will prove an invaluable companion. ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS WORK. Ala. stands for Alabama. Ark. li Arkansas. CO. cc county. lo. (( Iowa. la. ii Indiana. 111. cc Illinois. Kan. (C Kansas. Kj. cc Kentucky La. • CI Louisiana. Min. or Minn. Minnesota. Mo. stands for Missouri. Miss. cc Mississippi. Neb. a Nebraska. 0. It Ohio. Pa. u Pennsylvania pop. u population. R.or Riv. (C River. Tenn cc Tennessee. Va. 11 Virginia. Wis. (i Wisconsin. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, By U. p. JAMES, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of Ohio. TABLES OF DISTANCES. The jniSSISSIPPl RIV£R, from Fort ITIexico. Kipley to the Guif oi PLACES. From I'lace' Whole to Place, dintance Fort Ripley, Min.... Swan River, Min , Sauk Rapids, Miu.... Benton. Min , Itasca, Min Rum River, Min Manomin, Min Falls of St. Anthony) Minneapolis, Min... | Fort Snelling, Min. 1 St. Peter's River,M. [ Mendota, Min J St. Paul. Min Red Rock, Min Hastings, Min Vermilion Riv. Min. Point Douglas, Min "| St. Croix River - Pre^cott, Wis J Red Wing, Miu.... ) Lake Pepin j Kansas, Wis Chippewa River, Wis. Wabashaw, Min Fountain City, Wis... Trempaleau R,.Wis. Minnesota City, M. Montoville, Wis.... Black River. Wis.. Rising Sun, Min... Brooklyn, Min La Crosse, Wis Hokah River, Min Brownsville, Min... Racoon River, Wis Bad Axe River, Wis. Battlefield, Wis Lansing, lo Lynxviile, Wis ] Wexford. lo [ Prairie Du Chien, W, Fort Crawford, Wis.., Wisconsin Riv., Wis Cincinnati, Wis ] Kilroy, lo j Clayton, lo, Mendota, Wis Guttenburg, lo Cassville, Wis Turkey River, lo. Frankford, lo Buena Vista, lo... Potosi, Wis "Peru, lo Sinapee, Wis Jamestown, Wis Dubuque, lo | Dunleith, 111 j Fevre River, 111 Moselle, 111 1 Bellevue, lo J Makoqueta River, lo. Portsmouth, 111 Milm. Milrs. IS 28 9 40 10 10 10 3 18 25 1 10 15 10 18 •16 55 95 105 115 124 132 138 145 155 158 1G3 ISl 206 207 217 232 242 5 247 8 255 4 259 2 201 2 263 3 266 6 271 5 276 6 282 2 2.S4 15 299 8 .307 10 317 1 31 S 3 321 7 328 2 330 7 337 5 342 G 348 5 353 12 3G5 7 372 2 374 1 375 5 380 15 395 6 401 8 409 5 414 PLACES. From Plnc^ Whnlc to PlBcc. ilibtauci Savannah, 111 Sabula, lo Lvons, lo I Fulton City, lo J Albany, 111 I Camanche, lo j Wapsipinecon R., lo Cordova, III Princeton, lo Parkhurst, lo Port Byron, 111 Le Claire, lo Hampton, 111 Davenport, lo Rock Island... Moline. Ill Rock Island City, 111 Rock River, 111 Buffalo, lo \ Andalusia, 111 J Iowa, lo Fairport, lo , Muscatine, lo Port Louisa, lo New Boston, III... Iowa River, lo Keithsburg, 111.... Huron, lo Oquawka, IJl Burlington, lo Skunk Paver, lo... Pontoosue, 111 Appanoose, 111 Fort Madison, lo.. Nauvoo, 111 Montrose, lo Nashville, lo Montebello, 111 Keokuk, lo Hamilton City, 111. j Warsaw, 111 Des Moines R., lo Fox River, Mo , Des Moines City, Mo Tully, Mo Lagrange. Mo Quincy, III ) Fabin's River, Mo. J Marion City, Mo... Aston, 111 Booneville, 111 Hannibal, Mo Dayton, 111 Saverton, Mo Salt River, Mo Louisiana, Mo Clarksville, Mo Hamburg, 111 Gilead, 111 Riv iere au Cui vre, Mo Deer Plain, Mo Illinois River, 111 Crafton, 111 Mll» MiJei. J 4 15 7 4 1 5 1 1 5 12 3 2 7 6 16 10 7 9 10 15 8 7 5 3 2 6 12 G 12 422 426 441 448 455 459 460 465 466 467 472 484 487 489 494 502 609 515 531 541 548 557 5G7 582 590 597 602 605 613 617 623 627 531 633 639 651 657 6G9 676 679 686 694 712 714 726 741 750 765 777 783 PLACES. From Place to Flare. >:;::} Portages des Sioux, M. Randolph, 111 Alton, 111 Missouri River, Mo Chippewa, 111 Madison, 111 , Venice, 111 , Bremen, Mo ST. LOUIS, Mo.... Illinoistown, 111 Cahokia, 111. Caroudalet, Mo Jefferson Biirracks.M. Maramec River, Mo.. Clifton, Mo Harrisonvillo, 111 Herculaueum. Mo Plattin Rock, Mo Selma, Mo Rush Tower, Mo Fort Cbartres, 111 St. Genevieve, Mo.... St. Mary's Landing... Pratt's Landing, Mo. Kaskaskia River, 111. Chester, 111 Mary's River. Ill P'lrt Perry, Mo Libertj', 111 Wittemberg, Mo Devil's Bake Oven Grand Tower Breesevillo, 111 Muddy River, 111 Birmingham. Mo... 1 Union Point, 111.... / Devil's Tea Table I and Cornice Rocks J Bainbridge. Mo, Hamburg, 111.... Cape Girardeau, Mo Thebes, 111 ] New York, Mo j Commerce, Mo New Philadelphia, M. Ohio City, Mo Cairo, 111 MOUTH OF OHIO RIVER I I.-land No. 1 ] Norfolk, Mo I Beekwith's, Mo Baldwinsville, Mo... Columbus. Ky Hickman, Ky New Madrid, Mo Point Pleasant, Mo.. Riddle's Point, Mo.. Walker's Bend Little Prairie, Mo... Needham's Cut-off Obion River, Tenn, Hale's Point 4 1 5 9 10 2 2 1 2 4 9 11 10 2 3 1 4 3 4 17 5 1 2 4 3 6 10 9 3 7 21 5 4 20 44 Whom (liKtano Milatt. 19S736 [^Continued oji next page 790 794 801 806 807 809 817 819 823 827 828 833 842 852 854 856 857 859 863 872 883 893 895 898 899 903 906 910 927 932 933 935 939 P43 94S 952 962 971 974 981 1002 1008 1015 1020 1024 1044 1088 1095 1098 1116 1123 1147 ] TABLES OF DISTA NC E S.— Continued. PLACES. Kroni Pl»c 1155 1167 1173 1177 1187 1197 1207 1234 1246 1254 1256 1262 1264 1282 1284 1290 1310 1320 1328 1334 1.337 1347 1377 10 1387 PLACES. From riacc Wkole I to Place oittsncsi Bayou Pierre, Miss. ] Bruinsburgh, Miss, j St Joseph, La 4 16 13 35 18 4 4 22 4 10 19 5 10 14 10 2 10 2 10 15 10 14 2 10 6 1391 1407 1420 1455 1473 1477 1481 1503 1509 1513 1523 1542 1547 1557 1571 1581 1583 1589 1599 1001 1611 1626 1636 1650 1052 1662 1668 MinD'i Jiiver Cont'd. Rodney, Miss Natchez, Miss ) Vidalia, La j Ellis' Cliffs, JViiss Union Point, La Ilomochitto R. Miss.. Port Adams, Miss Red River, La Red River Island and Cut-off. Red R. Landing, La Raccourci Bend and Cut-ofl". Tunica Bend Ba3-ou Sara, La.... St. Francisville. La Point Cuupeo, La... Waterloo, La Thompson's Cr'k, La. Port Hudson, La , Thomas' Point Baton Rouge, La... 1 W. Baton Rouge, L j Manchac, La ) Manchac Bayou j Bayou Plaquemine, \ Plaquemine, La — J Iberville, La Bayou Goule, La Miles. Milia. Bayou La Fourche, | Donaldsonville, La. j Jefferson College, La. Bonnet Carre, La Red Church, La Carrollton, La Lafayette City, La.... NEW ORLEANS Battle Ground, La... Ducro's Lauding, La Fort St. Leon, La.. English Turn, La.. Forts St. Philip & ) .lackson. La J Mouths of the Mis- ) sissippi J ALABAMA RIVER, From Montgomery to the Gulf of Mexico. Montgomery, Ala.... Washington, Ala Lowndesport, Ala Vernon, Ala Miller's Ferry, Ala... Benton, Ala Selma, Ala Cahawba, Ala Elm Bluff, Ala Portland, Ala Bridgeport, Ala Canton, Ala Prairie Bluff, Ala 1 Upper Peach Tree ) j Landing, Ala j ; Black Bluff Land- | ing, Ala., J Lower Peach Tree ) I Landing, Ala..... j 4 41 18 3 23 10 11 4 6 24 5 5 1 13 12 15 10 10 14 16 24 16 19 5 2 6 6 5 55 30 1672 1713 1731 1734 1757 1767 1778 1784 1788 1794 ISIS 1823 1828 1829 1842 1854 1869 1877 1887 1897 1911 1927 1951 1967 1986 1991 1993 1999 2005 2010 "005 2095 PLACES. From Place to Plic*. diataa* 13 10 8 9 15 26 16 5 19 16 5 10 11 13 23 31 40 55 81 97 102 121 137 142 152 163 176 18] Alabama Ji. Contin'd. Bell's Landing, Ala... Claiborne, Ala Gosport, Ala Gainestown, Ala French's Land'g, Ala. James' Landing, Ala. Tombigbee Riv. Ala. Fort St. Philip, Ala.. MOBILE, Ala Gulf of Mexico ST. PETERS RIVER. From South Bend Ci- ty to the 3/ii)niiisippi. South Bend City, M.. Mankato, Miu St. Peters, Min Traverse Des Sioux ) Min j Le Sueur, Min Henderson, Min Chasca, Min Carver, Min Hennepin, Miu Mouth of St. Peters.. ST. CROIX RIVER, From St. Croix Falli to the Missinsij/pi Jiiver. St. Croi.\ Falls, Wis.. Osceola, Wis Marine Mills, Min.... Stillwater, Min Hudson, Wis ) Lake St. Cruix ) Mouth of St. Croix... WISCONSIN RIVER, From Wau»au to the JliHsissippi River. Wausau ; or Big ) Bull Falls. AVis.. J Little Bull Falls, W.. Stephen's Point, Wis. Plover, Wis Portage City, Wis... Prairie du Sac, Wis.. Kichhuul, Wis Brooklyn, AVis Mouth of Wisconsin 16 22 7 9 8 6 40 22 22 30 8 6 34 2 10 25 9 9 15 5 16 18 28 3 115 40 45 65 7 ROCK RIVER, From Wfttertown to the 3Iis»isiippi Rirer. Watertown, Wis .Tefferson, Wis. 16 Fort Atkinson, Wis... 8 Jancsvillo, Wis 34 Beloit, Wis.... 18 Roscoe, 111 8 Rockford, 111.. 12 Byron, 111 12 Oregon, 111 10 Dixon, 111 20 f Continued an next jpage TABLES OF DI S T A NCE S.— Continued. PLACES. IFrom Plac« Wkole lo Plac*. Idiiitaiicff, Hock River Contin'd. Sterling, 111 Lyndon, 111 Prophetetown, 111.. Erie, 111 Camden, 111 Mouth of Rock River Mlln. MiLei. IOWA RIVER. From Iowa City to the Jfissiseippi River. Iowa City, lo Port Allen. lo Concord, lo Wapello. In Mouth of Iowa DES MOINES RIVER, from Ft. Dca Moines to the Mississippi. Fort Des Moines, lo Dudley, lo , Lafayette, lo Bennington, lo Red Rock, lo Amsterdam, lo Bellefontaine, lo Auburn, lo Des Moines City, lo Eddyviilc. lo Chillicotlie, lo Ottumwa, lo lowaville, lo ) New Market J Portland, lo Philadelphia, lo Pittsburgh, lo Keosauqua, lo | Pleasant Hill, lo... j I'ontonsport, lo | Vernon, lo J Bonaparte, lo Fariiiington, lo Black Hawk, Mo Croton, lo Athens, Mo Belfast, lo Niagara, Mo St. Francisville, Alo. Church ville. Mo Mouth of the Des ) Moines J ILLINOIS RIVER, from Dresden to the Mississippi River. Dresden, 111 Morris, III Clarkson. Ill Marseilles, III Ottowa, 111 Utica, 111 La Salle, 111 Peru, 111 Hennepin, 111 ) West Hennepin.... j Henry, 111 12 16 2 10 .35 1 150 166 168 178 213 214 35 45 57 80 14 19 29 45 57 69 81 89 91 99 111 131 137 145 152 157 165 170 178 181 184 189 195 200 205 219 220 10 14 31 40 50 55 67 74 87 PLACES. From Plftcej Whole to Pluce. distance lUinoit River Cont'd. Lacon, 111 Chillicothe, 111 I Peoria Lake J Rome, III Spring Bay, 111., Detroit, 111 Little Detroit, 111 Peoria, 111 Wesley City, 111 Pekin, 111 Liverpool, 111 Havana, 111 Bath, 111 Sangamon River Fredericksville, 111... Beardstown, HI La Grange, 111 Meredosia, 111 Naples, 111 Florence, 111 Montezuma, 111 Bridgeport, 111 Newport, 111 Hardin, 111 Guilford, 111 Monterey, 111 Mouth of the Illinois MISSOURI RIVER, From the Head Wa- ters to the Miaiis- sippi River. "Gates of the Rocky) Mountains" J Great Falls Mouth of Yellow 1 Stone River J Sioux City, lo Tekama, Neb De Soto, Neb Fort Calhoun, Neb... Florence, Nob Council Bluff's Ci ty, lo Omaha City, Neb. Council Point, lo Trader's Point, lo Bellovue, Neb St. Mary's, lo California City, lo. ] Platte Rivor... J Plattsbille, lo Plattsmouth, Neb Bethlehem, lo Kenosha, Neb Nehr.aska City, Neb.. Brownsville, Neb Iowa Point, Mo Nodeway City, AIo... St. Joseph, Mo Leachman, Mo Doniphan, Kan Atchinson, Kan Kickapoo City, Kan. Weston, Mo Ft. Leavenworth, K. Little Platte Riv. lo. Paxkville, Mo 6 13 93 100 4 110 4 114 7 121 2 123 5 128 4 1.32 7 139 28 167 9 176 12 188 IS 206 3 209 4 213 8 221 9 230 7 237 10 247 6 253 6 259 8 267 14 281 4 285 4 289 13 302 441 441 110 551 675 1226 t075 2301 60 2361 30 2391 15 2406 10 2416 10 2426 5 2431 3 2434 2 2436 6 2441 2 2443 2 2445 1 2446 1 2447 10 2457 10 2467 30 2497 40 2537 30 2567 25 2592 25 2617 8 2625 9 2634 12 2646 10 2656 4 2660 20 2680 2 2682 PLACES. From Place to Place. Missouri Riv. Cont'd. Wyandotte City, K. Kansas Rivor Kansas, Mo Randolph, Mo Wayne City, Mo... Liberty Landing, Mo Livingston, Mo... Owen's L.anding, Mo. Richfield, Mo. Sibley, Mo Napoleon, Mo Camden, Mo Wellington, Mo Lexington, Mo Crooked River, Mo... Walconda, Mo Wnverly, Mo Hill's Landing, Mo... Miami, Mo De Witt, Mo Grand Rivor, Mo Brunswick, Mo Old Jefferson, Mo Cambridge, Mo Chariton Rivor, Mo.. Glasgow, Mo Bluffport, Mo.., Arrow Rock, Mo La Mine Rivor, Mo... Booneville. Mo ) Old Franklin, Mo.. J Rocheport, Mo Mt. Vernon, Mo Providence, Mo Nashville, Mo Moniteau, Mo Marion, Mo Stonesport, Mo Jefferson City, Mo. | Hibernia, Mo j Formosa, Mo ) Osage River J Cote Sans Dessein, Mo Smith's Landing, Mo Portland, Mo Gasconade River, 1 Mo J Hermann, Mo Bridgeport, Mo Pinckney, Mo ) Griswold, Mo J Washington, Mo Ba.=sora, Mo South Point, Mo Portmuna, Mo Mt. Pleasant, Mo.... St. Albans, Mo Missouri ton. Mo .Johnson's Ferry, M Port Royal, Mo Pittman's Ferry, Mo St. Charles, Mo Jamestown, Mo Bellefontaine, Mo Columbus, Mo Mouth of the Mis- souri ^Continued on next page 12 5 7 5 5 1 10 10 6 6 7 8 6 15 3 10 20 6 5 2 25 2 5 3 5 10 10 6 12 8 6 2 3 6 10 6 9 8 16 10 6 1 12 16 1 2 6 1 8 1 2 5 18 Ifi 2 Whole diAtano 2694 2699 2706 2711 2716 2717 2727 2737 2743 2749 2756 2764 2770 2785 2783 2798 2813 2824 2829 2831 2856 2858 2863 286G 2871 2881 2891 2897 2909 2917 2923 2925 2923 2934 2944 2950 2959 2964 2972 2988 2998 3004 3005 3017 3033 3034 3036 3042 3043 3051 3052 3054 3059 3077 3093 3095 3099 TABLES OF D I S T A N C E S .—Continued. PLACES. From Place to Plav«. KASRASKIA RIVER, From Shelbyville to the MiasUsijipi liiv. Sholbyvillo, 111 Vandalia, 111 Koysport, III Carlyle, 111 Covington, 111 Fayetteville, 111 Athens, 111 Lively, 111 Tauaarawa, 111 Evansville, 111 Kaskaskia, 111 Mouth of the Kas- kaskia WHITE RIVER, From Worth to the Mitsiasippi River. Worth, Ark Johnson, Ark Liberty, Ark Athens, Ark Mt. Olive, Ark Sylamore, Ark Batesville, Ark Jacksonport, Ark Elizabeth, Ark Augusta, Ark Des Are, Ark Clarendon, Ark Crockett's Bluff, Ark. Cass Coe, Ark Mouth of White Riv. ARKANSAS RIVER, From Fort Gibson to the Missiaiiippi It. Ft. Gibson, Ind. Ter. Fort Coffee, Ind. Tor. Fort Smith, Ark Van Buren, Ark Ozark, Ark Rosoville, Ark Patterson's Bluff, Ark Spadra Bluff, Ark Pittsbur;;h, Ark St. Martin's, Ark Scotia, Ark Norristown, Ark... ) Dardenelle, Ark ( Lewisburir, Ark Greene Grove, Ark... Little Rock, Ark Straw Hat, Ark Pine Bluff, Ark Rob Roy, Ark New Gascony, Ark... Richland, Ark Swan Lake, Ark Niccattoo, Ark South Bend, Ark Arkansas Post, Ark.. Red Fork, Ark Wellington, Ark Mouth of the Ar- 1 kansas j 50 27 12 14 26 9 2 .3 20 8 55 28 25 6 6 45 35 10 65 35 38 33 8 50 100 20 10 60 12 20 15 5 10 2 20 40 IS 40 70 20 12 10 8 5 10 30 25 10 20 30 Whole [ dittanc 50 77 89 103 129 138 140 143 163 171 178 55 83 108 114 120 165 200 210 275 310 348 381 389 439 100 120 130 190 202 222 237 242 252 254 274 314 332 372 442 462 474 484 492 497 507 537 562 572 592 622 PLACES. From riacc to Place. RED RIVER, From Lanesport to the JUissiesip2>i Itiver. Lanesport, Ark Fulton, Ark Conway, Ark Shreveport, La Nachitoches, La Alexandria. La Mouth of Red River. OHIO RIVER From Pittshurcfh to the 3fississippi R. Pittsburgh, Pa Manchester, Pa Middleton, Pa Sewickleyville, Pa... Economy, Pa Baden, Pa Freedom, Pa Rochester, Pa Beaver, Pa \ Jacobsburg, Pa J Georgetown, Pa.... ) Glasgow, Pa J Liverpool, Wellsville, Elliottsville, Newburg, , Steubenville, Wellsburg, Ya Warrenton, Tiltonsville, Burlington, Martinsville, Wheeling, Va | Bridgeport, J Bellaire, Mannyville, Va Elizabethtown, Va Moundsville Big Grave Creek.., Steinervillo, Clarington, New Martinsville, Va Sistersville, Va Newport, Marietta, Muskingum River. Harmer, Vienna, Va Parkersburg, Va... ") Little Kanawha R. j Belpre, J Blannerhassett's I Centre, Troy, | Hockhocking Riv.. J Belleville, Va Murraysville, Va Shade River, Ravenswood, Va Letartsville, Graham's Station, 0.. Racine, Minersville, Fomeroy, 100 100 90 100 80 150 14 4 4 8 2 9 7 7 3 4 1 1 4 9 12 19 12 4 5 1 11 23 6 1 6 1 Whole di«taiic« 100 200 290 390 470 620 11 13 19 23 25 29 30 44 48 52 60 62 71 78 85 88 92 93 94 98 106 107 115 122 130 139 151 170 176 1S3 185 197 201 207 208 219 242 248 249 255 256 PLACES. From Place \Vljole to Flact^ iliiujio Ohio River Contin'd. Coalport, Middleport, ) Sheffield, j West Columbia, Va... Cheshire, Addison, Point Pleasant, Va, ) Great Kanawha R. J Gallipolis, l!lg Racoon Creek, 0- Blandenburg, , Millerspiirt, Haskellville, Guyandotte, Va.. Guyandutte R., V Proctorsville, 0... Burlington, Big Sandy River... 1 Catleltsburg. Ky... J Coal Grove, U , Ironton, Hanging Rock, 0.... Greenupsburgh, Ky.. Wheelersburg, Sciotoville, Portsmouth, 0... Scioto River, 0.., Springville, Ky... Alexandria, Bradford, Rockville, Vanceburg, Ky Rome, Concord, Ky Manchester, , Maysville, Ky ) Aberdeen, | Charleston, Kj' , Ripley, Lavana, ) Dover, Ky j Higginsport, Augusta, Ky Rockspring, Ky Mechanicsburg, 0... Neville, ) Fosterville, Ky j Moscow, Point Ple.asant 0... ) Belmont, Ky J New Richmond, 0.., Palestine, Californiii, | Little Miami River J Columbia, Pendleton, Jamestown, Ky... Brooklyn, Kv CINCINNATI, 0... 1 Newport, Ky [ Licking River Covington, Ky.... Industry, Claysviile, Ky.... Home City, North Bond, Great Miami River. Lawrenceburg, la.... Petersburg, Ky MflM. MilM. 4 5 6 14 3 10 8 4 4 5 4 6 8 3 3 11 2 7 7 7 12 7 2 4 4 4 4 3 2 3 5 4 11 2 \_Concluded on next ]^age.'\ TABLES OF DISTANCE S.— Continued. PLACES. From Place Whole to Place, di.-tance Ohio River Contin'd. Aurora, la. Belleview, Ky Rising Sun, la Millersburg, la Big Bone Lick Cr'k ) Ilamilton, Ky J Patriot, la Warsaw, Ky New York, la Vevay, la ) Ghent. Ky J CarroUton, Ky... Xentucky River Preston, Ky Madison, la | Wilton, Ky j Hanover Landing, la New London, la , Bethlehem, la Westport, Ky Charleston L'd'g, la.. Utiea, la Jeffersonville. la Louisville, Ky Shippingsport, Ky Portland, Ky \ New Albany, la... J Bridgeport, la Blakesville, la Salt River, Ky \ West Point, Ky.... J Brandenburg, Ky Mauckport, la Northampton. la Amsterdam, la Blue River, la Leavenworth, la Fredonia, la Alton, la Concordia, Ky Rome, la. Stephensport, Ky.. Sinking Creek, Ky. Cloverport, Ky Tobinsport, la Hawesville, Ky Cannalton, la Troy, la Anderson River.... Maxville, la Batesville, la Lewisport, Ky , Rockport, la Owensburg, Ky Bon Harbor, Ky... Enterprise, la Point Isabel, la Nowburg, la Green River, Ky... Evansville, la Verona, la , Henderson, Ky West Franklin, la. Mount Vernon, la. Uniontown, Ky Wabash River Raleigh, Ky Shawneetown, 111.. OMeyville, Ky Miles. Milps. 2 11 1 10 10 10 6 6 6 6 12 5 9 1 2 18 3 7 3 6 2 5 13 10 12 10 14 6 1 2 3 13 9 3 3 1 13 6 9 r 5 14 12 10 5 6 5 10 502 503 511 514 523 525 536 537 547 001 567 573 579 585 591 603 608 617 618 620 621 630 636 640 658 661 668 671 678 680 685 698 708 720 730 744 750 751 753 756 769 778 781 784 785 798 804 813 820 825 839 851 861 866 872 877 887 PLACES. From Place Whole to Place, distance Ohio River Contin'd' Battery Rock, HI Cave-in-rock, 111 Elizabethtown, 111.... Golconda, 111 Cumberland River ) Smitbland, Ky J Tennessee River... ) Paducah, Ky j Belgrade, 111 Port Massac, 111 Metropolis, 111. Hillaman, 111 Wilkinsonville, 111.... Caledonia, 111 America, 111 Emporium, 111. .. Cairo, 111 Mouth of Ohio.... MUSKINGUM RIVER, From Coshocton to the Ohio River. Coshocton, Dresden, Zanesville, Duncan's Falls, 0.. ) Taylors ville, J Eagleport, McCounellsville, 1 Malta, J Newcastle, Windsor, Big Rock, Beverly, ) Waterford, J Lowell, Mth. of Muskingum sciotTTiver. From Columbus to the Ohio River. Columbus, Circleville, Chillicothe, Piketon, 0... , Jasper, 0.. Lucasville, Mouthof Scioto..., KENTUCKY RIFER, From Booncsboro' to the Ohio River. Boonesboro', Ky Cogar's Landing, Ky Monday's Land'g, K. Cumming's Ldg, Ky. Oregon, Ky McCowan's Ldg, Ky. Wilson's Land'g, Ky. Sherlock's L'd'g, Ky. Woodford L'd'g, Ky. Frankfort, Ky Flat Creek L'd'g, Ky Monterey, Ky Owenton's Land'g, K Lockport, Ky Gratz, Ky Miles. I MUea. I I 2 I 889 12 I 901 6 907 23 930 15 12 8 2 1 8 7 10 ei O 8 17 16 11 10 3 7 8 10 10 12 26 19 20 2 10 13 945 957 965 967 9G8 976 983 993 996 999 1005 17 33 42 53 63 66 73 81 91 101 113 26 45 65 67 77 90 4 4 4 8 10 18 3 21 4 25 4 29 4 33 12 45 15 60 3 63 5 68 6 74 3 77 PLACES. From Place to Place Miles Kentucky Riv. Cont'd. Drennon's Springs, K Springport, Ky Marion, Ky Law's Lauding, Ky... Worthsville, Ky Mouth of Kentucky.. WAB;IS1I RIVER, From Lafaytttc to the Ohio River. Lafayette, la Wbeaton, la La Grange, la Maysville, La Independence, la Atica, la Williaia.^port, la Portland, la Baltimore, la Covington, la Perryville, la Vermilion Piiver Lodiville, la Newport, la Montezuma, la Armiesburg, la Clinton, la Nurua, la Harrison, la Terrs Haute, la Darwin, la Yorke, 111 Hudsonville, 111 Merom, la Russellville, 111 Vincennes, la Mt. Carmel, 111 GraysviUe, 111 New Baltimore, la... New Harmony, la... Chainville, la Mouth of Wabash... CUMBERLAND RIV. From Nailiville to the Ohio River. Nashville, Tenn Clarksville, Tenn Palmyra, Tenn Dover, Tenn Tobaccoport, Tenn.. Canton, Ky Rockcastle, Ky Eddyville. Ky Mth. of Cumberland TENNESSEE RIVER, From Muscle Shoah to the Ohiii River. Muscle Shoals Florence, Ala Tuscumbia, Ala... Waterloo, Ala Savannah, Tenn .... Carrollvillc, Tenn.... Perryville, Tenn Reynoldsburg, Tenn Mouth of Tennessee 9 3 5 1 8 2 8 6 4 9 10 2 7 6 2 10 2 14 4 25 16 9 8 25 18 36 45 9 6 20 40 Wbote distanfl 86 86 90 93 97 105 9 12 17 18 26 28 36 42 46 65 65 67 74 80 82 92 94 103 112 137 153 162 170 195 213 249 294 303 309 329 360 55 65 15 70 30 100 15 115 16 131 5 136 17 153 50 203 30 30 35 55 35 100 20 120 50 170 110 2S0 INDEX TO EIVEES. FACE, f Alabama River 60 Alleghany River 86 Amite River 46 Anderson River 118 Aransas River 65 Arkansas River 80 Bad Axe River 14 Bark River 69 Bayou Goulc 48 Bayou La Fourche 48 Bayou Pierre 40 Bayou Plaquemiue 46 Bayou Sara 44 Beaver River 92 Big Barren River 120 Big Black River 40 Big Bone Lick Creek. . . 112 Big Grave Cr6ek 96 Big Racoon Creek 102 Big Saudy River 102 Big Stone River 74 Black River, Ark 80 Black River, Wis 13 Blue River, Ark 81 Blue River, la 118 Brazos River 64 Cahaba River 60 Canadian River 80 Cash River 122 Chagres River 66 Chariton River 77 Cheat River 84 Chippewa River 68 Clearwater River 68 Clinch River 127 Colorado River 64 Coosa River 60 Copper River 20 Crawfish River 69 Crooked River 77 Cumberland River 127 Des Moines River 70 Des Plaines River 71 Fabin's River 20 False River 46 False Washita River. . . 81 Fevre River 15 Forked Deer River 34 Fox River, 111 71 Fox River, lo 18 Fox River, Wis 68 8 PACK. I Gasconade River 78 1 Grand River, Ind.Ter.. 80 j Grand River, Mo 77 i Great Kanawha River. . 102' Great Miami River.... 112 1 Green River 120 I Guadalupe River 65] Guyandotte River 102 Hatchee River 34 Hockhocking River. .. . 100 Hokah River 13 Holston River 128 Homochitto River 42 Illinois River, 111 71 Illinois River, Ind. Ter. 80 Iowa River 69 Kankakee River 71 Kansas River 76 Kaskaskia River 79 Kentucky River 125 La Mine River 77 Lavacca River 65 Licking River 110 Little Blue River 118 Little Kanawha River. . 98 Little jVIiami River 106 Little Platte River 76 Makoqueta River 15 Manchac Bayou 46 Maramec River 26 Mary's River 28 Mission River 65 Mississippi River 9 Missouri River 73 Monongahela River 84 Muddy River 28 Muskingum River 124 Neasho River 80 Neches River 62 Nueces River 65 Obion River 32 Ohio River 88 Osage River 78 Platte River. . Plover River. 75 68 PAGC. Racoon River, lo 70 Racoon River, Wis.... 14 Red Cedar River 68 Red River 81 Rio Grande 65 Rock River 68 Rum River 12 Sabine River 62 Salt River, Ky 116 Salt River, Mo 20 San Antonio River 65 Sangamon River 72 San Jacinto River 64 Scioto River 124 Shade River 100 Sinking Creek 118 Skunk River 17 Spoon River 72 St. Croix River 67 St. Francis River 36 St. Peters River 67 Sunflower River 81 Swan River 11 Talapoosa River 60 Tallahatchee River 81 Tennessee River 128 Thompson's Creek 46 Tombigbee Piiver 60 Trempaleau River 13 Trinity River 62 Turkey River 14 Tuscarawas River 124 Upper Iowa River 14 Vermilion River, la. . . . 126 Vermilion River, Min. . 13 Wabash River 125 Walhoundintc River. . . . 124 Wapsipinecon River . . 16 White River, Ark W Wliite River, la 126 Willow River 67 Wisconsin River 68 Wolf River 34 Yallabusha River 81 Yazoo Pass, or Bayou. . 36 Yazoo River 81 Yellow Stone River. . .. 74 Youghiogheney River. . 84 JAMES' RIVEE GUIDE. > THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. The Mississippi is the largest and most magnificent river in North America, and with its main branch, the Missouri, the longest in the world. It takes its rise near the dividing ridge of the Red Eiver of the north, and in a small lake called Itasca. This beautiful lake, which is some 5 or 7 miles in length, reposes amidst hills of marine sand, of the drift epoch, and consists of pure springs of water, gushing out in copious rills, within a visible basin. Its distance from the Gulf of Mexico, is estimated at 3160 miles. The entire alti- tude of the lake, as determined by Mr. Nicollet, in 1836, is 1575 feet, which is 105 feet below the summit of its environing hills; and its latitude, at School- craft's Island, the only island in it, is 47° 13' 35" N. Lat., and it flows into the Gulf of Mexico in 29° N. Lat. The face of the country about its head, presents a very similar appearance to that at its estuary. It is formed of many small branches ; but soon becomes a broad stream, moving a wide expanse of waters, with a current scarcely percep- tible — sometimes along a marshy bed — through interminable swamps ; at others, over a white sand bottom, with its waters transparent, and at others, " it is compressed to a narrow and rapid current, between ancient and hoary limestone bluffs. A great number of streams, risiug in the same plateau, and interlocking with the waters of Red River, and other streams of Lake Winnipeg, unite to form the St. Peters and Mississippi." The following are among the mo.^t considerable of its tributaries : Rapid, St. Croix, Cannon River, Bufiido Bluff, Black, Root, Upper Iowa, Yellow, Bad Axe, Wisconsin, Turkey River, La Mine, Fevre Rivei", Tete de Mort, Wipisipinacon, Little Loutour, Rock River, Iowa, Des Moines, Waconda, Fabian, Justioni, Oahaka, or Salt River, Bocuf of Cuivre, Dardenne, Illinois, Missouri, Maramcc, Kaskaskia, Big Muddy, Ohio, Wolf, St. Francis, White River, Arkansas, Yazoo, Red River, and Bayou Sara.* 1100 miles below its source, and 771 above St. Louis, are the Falls of St. Anthony. Here the river is about 600 yards wide, and is precipitated over a ledge of limestone, 17 feet high. The scenery around the falls is grand and imposing. Below thi.s point, the river is bounded by limestone bluffs, from 100 to 400 feet high, and first begins to exhibit islands. Its current is broke by the Rapids, at the mouth of the Rock river and Des Moines, which partially obstruct navigation, for a portion of the summer. ■ The scenery along the Upper, or Rock River Rapids, is very fine. On the vrcstern side, the land rises in gentle slopes, which are terminated in the distance ♦Flint's Geography. 9 10 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. hy a beautiful chain of hills. On the opposite side, a broad, flat plain, of more than a mile in width, and several miles in length, presents itself. The celebrated Black Hawk War originated in the determination of the Sacs and Fox Indians to maintain possession of this splendid tract of country. "Below the rapids, the river assumes its medial width and character from that point to the entrance of the Missouri. It is a still more beautiful river than the Ohio; somewhat gentler in its current — a third wider, with broad, clean sand-bars, except in time of high waters, when they are all covered. At every little distance, there are islands, sometimes a number of them parallel, and broadening the stream to a great width. These islands, are, many of them, large, and have, in the summer season, an aspect of beauty, as they swell gently from the clear stream, a vigor and grandeur of vegetation, which con- tribute much to the magnificence of the river." " Where it receives the Mis- souri, it is a mile and a half wide. The Missouri, itself, enters with a mouth not more than half a mile wide. The united streams below have thence, to the mouth of the Ohio, a medial width of little more than half a mile. This mighty aflBuent seems rather to diminish than increase its width ; but it perceptibly alters its depth, its mass of waters, and, what is to be regretted, wholly changes its character. It is no longer the gentle, placid stream, with smooth shores, and clean sand-bars ; but has a furious and boiling current, a turbid and dangerous mass of sweeping waters, jagged and dilapidated shores, and, wherever its waters have receded, deposits of mud. It remains a sublime object of contemplation; •but its character of calm magnificence, that so delighted the eye above, is seen no more."* The surface of the river is covered with huge boils or swells, which render it a matter of considerable difficulty, in some places, to navigate a boat. " In its course, accidental circumstances shift the impetus of its cur- rent, and propel it upon the point of an island, bend, or sand-bar. In these in- stances, it tears up the island, removes the sand-bars, and sweeps away the tender, alluvial soil of the bends, with all their trees, and deposits the spoils in another place. At the season of high waters, nothing is more familiar to the ears of the people on the river, than the deep crash of a landslip, in which larger or smaller masses of the soil on the banks, with all the trees, are plunged into the stream. Such is its character, from the Missouri to the Balize — a wild, furious, whirl- ing river, never navigated safely. °' No person who descends this river for the first time, receives clear and ade- quate ideas of its grandeur, and the amount of water which it carries. If it be in the spring, when the river below the mouth of the Ohio is generally over its banks, although the sheet of water that is making its way to the gulf, is, perhaps, 80 miles wide, yet, finding its way through deep forests and_ swamps, that conceal all from the eye, no expanse of water is seen, but the width, that is curved out between the outline of woods on either bank; and it seldom exceeds, and ofteuer falls short of a mile. But when he sees, in descending from the Falls of St. Anthony, that it swallows up one river after another, with mouths as wide as itself, without affecting its width at all— who^n he sees jtre- ceiving in succession the mighty Missouri, the broad Ohio, St. Francis, "White, Arkansas, and Red Rivers, all of them of great depth, length, andvolume of ^ater— when he sees this mighty river absorbing them all, and retaining a vol- ume, apparently unchanged, he begins to estimate rightly the increasing depth of current, that must roll on in its deep channel to the sea. Carried outof the Balize, and sailing with a good breeze for hours, he sees nothing on any side but the turbid waters of the Mississippi, long after he is out of sight of land. '< Between the mouth of the Ohio and St. Louis, on the west side of the riyer, the blufl"s are generally near it, seldom diverging from it more than 2 milea. • Flint's Geography. THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 11 They are for the most part, perpendicular masses of limestone ; sometimes shoot- ing up into towers and pinnacles, presenting, as Mr. Jefferson well observed, at a distance, the aspect of the battlements and towers of an ancient city. Some- times the river sweeps the base of these perpendicular bluffs, as happens at the Cornice rocks, and at the cliffs above St. Genevieve. They rise here between 200 and 300 feet above the level of the river. There are many imposing spectacles of this sort near the western bank of the Mississippi, in this distance. We may mention among them, that gigantic mass of rocks, forming a singular island in the river, called the 'Grand Tower,' and the shot tower at Hercuhineum. " From the sources of the river to the mouth of the Missouri, the annual flood ordinarily commences in March, and does not subside until the last of May, and its medial height is 15 feet. At the lowest stages, 4 feet of water may be found from the rapids of Des Moines to the mouth of the Missouri. Between that point and the mouth of the Ohio, there are 6 feet in the (Channel of the shallow- est places at low water; and the annual inundation may be estimated at 25 feet. Between the mouth of the Ohio and the St. Francis, there are various shoal places, where pilots are often perplexed to find a sufficient depth of water, when the river is low. Below that point, there is no difficulty for vessels of any draught, ex- cept to find the right channel. Below the mouth of the Ohio, the medial flood is 50 feet; the highest, 60. Above Natchez, the flood begins to decline. At Baton Rouge, it seldom exceeds 30 feet ; and at New Orleans, 12. Some have supposed this gradual diminution of the flood to result from the di'aining of the numerous affluxes of the river, that convey away such considerable portions of its waters, by separate channels to the sea. To this should be added, no doubt, the check, which the river, at this distance, begins to feel from the reaction of the sea, where this mighty mass of descending waters finds its level." * The banks of the river, from Cairo down, are clothed, in many instances, with a rich verdure of trees, down to the water's edge, interspersed here and there with towns and fine plantations. About 500 miles below, commences the great cotton growing region, and, below the mouth of Red River, the sugar plantations. From thence to New Orleans, the banks of the river are lined with a succession of fine plantations and dwellings, delightflally surrounded with shrubbery. From Columbia, Arkansas, the forest of cotton and other trees presents a most singular appearance, being, in many places, covered with a peculiar kind of moss, which de- pends from the branches, in long, thick masses, and gives an almost funereal aspect to them. It is the moss commonly used, when manufactured, for mattreses, &c. A traveler, in some well written sketches, very truthfully remarks, that, "No person can pass down the Mississippi, and view the immense bodies of unculti- vated lands, lying contiguous to its banks, without reflecting on the great changes which time will produce. In a century, or two at the most, the banks of the river will present continuous lines of cultivated plantations, similar to those on the coast. The lands are as rich as nature can make them, being all of alluvial formation ; and the soil of such a depth that there is no danger of its ever be- ing exhausted. When we read of the myriads of people, who formerly existed in the valley of the Nile, and compare the capabilities of the Mississippi valley with it, we can comprehend the great destiny, awaiting only the development of time, in store for this already far-famed region." Fort Ripley, formerly Fort Gaines, is 6 miles south of Crow Wing river, at the mouth of the Nokay, in Cass co., Minnesota, and 122 miles north of St. Paul. Swan River, Benton co., Minn., 18 miles south of Fort Ripley. Near the mouth of this river, on the east side of the Mississippi, is a small settlement. •Flint's Greography. « :i2 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Sauk Eapids, county seat of Benton co., Minn., 28 miles below. The vil- lage is situated on the east side of the Mississippi, in the center of a very fine farming country. Population about 300. Benton, 9 miles below, in the same county. Itasca, about 40 miles below, in Benton co., is a small village. Eum River, 10 miles below, rises to the north of the Mississippi, in Mille Lacs, aud after a course of about 80 miles, falls into the Mississippi at this point. Manomin, 10 miles below, in Ramsey co., Minn. Falls of St. Anthony, 9 miles below. These falls are about 18 feet per- pendicular, and about 30 rods in width, divided by a conical island, leaving nearly two-thirds on the west side. The entire fall of the river in a distance of a few miles, is about 100 feet, affording almost unlimited water-power. St. Anthony's Falls, Ramsey co., Minn. The town of St. Anthony is beautifully situated on the side and summit of a hill, rising up from a preci- pice, from which a fine view of the falls and surrounding country can be obtained. It is the seat of the University of Minnesota, endowed by a liberal donation of lands by the General Government. There are a number of stores, 2 printing offices, 2 hotels, a number of saw and grist-mills, and manufacturing establish- ments. Population about 2500. The laud in the vicinity of the falls, consists of prairie, interspersed with openings of various extent, and is generally admi- rably adapted to agricultural purposes. It is also well watered by numerous small lakes and streams, whose never-failing springs add much to the strength and fertility of the soil. These lakes and streams are well stocked with fish. The falls of St. Anthony were named by Father Hennepin, a companion of the enterprising M. De la Salle, who, in 1680, ascended the Mississippi river as far as the falls, and reported that he had discovered its source. The Mississippi river was discovered by Marquette, seven years before. Minneapolis, county seat of Hennepiu co., Minn., is a thriving town oppo- Bitc St. Anthony's Falls. Population aliout 3.000. Fort Snelling, 8 miles below, in the same county. This fort is situated on the west side of the Mississippi, and at the mouth of St. Peter's Eiver. (See page 67.) Mendota, the capital of Dakota co., Minn., is just below the mouth of St. Peter's river, which must, at no distant day, bear upon its waters the valuable products of a fertile and luxuriant soil. Mendota contains a number of stores, and a population of about 500. St. Paul, 6 miles below, is the capital of Minnesota, and county seat of Ramsey co. 'This is the head of steamboat navigation. St. Paul is pleasantly situated on a high bluff, from which a fine view of the river may be had. It contains a fine State House, 6 or 8 churches, a number of hotels, 3 printing offices, several mills, and flourishing schools, a large number of stores, and me- chanic's shops of various kinds. It is rapidly increasing in wealth, and com- mands the trade of a large extent of growing country, with a soil of exceeding fertility. Population estimated at about 8000. Eed Eock, Ramsey co., Minn., 7 miles below. Its name is derived from a lar^e rock, which the Indians painted red, and styled Wahon, or Spint-rock. TEE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 13 Red Rock was first settled by the Methodist missionaries, in 1837, under the su- perintendence of the Rev. Alfred Branson. An Indian school was established, at an expenditure of 830,000; but, after a few years, the mission failed. The soil in this region is well adapted to the growth of corn. Hastings, 10 miles below, in Minnesota. Vermilion, or Rapid River, enters the Mississippi 3 miles below; it rises in Minnesota, and flows north-cast ou a line nearly parallel with the St. Peters river. Point Douglas, ^yashington co., Minn., 5 miles below. This village is situated on a point of land formed by the junction of the St. Croix with the Mis- sissippi river. It has an excellent steamboat landing. St. Croix River, (See page T)".) Prescott, the county seat of Pierce co., Wis., is just below the junction of the St. Croix with the Mississippi. Red Wing, 18 miles below, is the county seat of Goodhue co., Minn., and at the upper part of Lake Pepin. Lake Pepin, is formed by an expansion of the Mississippi. It is about 25 miles long, and 4 wide ; the water is clear and the current very gentle. On the eastern side of the lake, is the celebrated Maiden's Rock, which rises perpen- dicularly 500 feet. Near the head of the lake, on the east side, is the mouth of Rush river, which empties into the lake ; and, ou the opposite side is the Cannon river. The shores of this lake abound with carnelian and other valuable stones. Kansas, 25 miles below Red Wing, at the lower extremity of Lake Pepin, in Dunn co.. Wis. Chippewa River, empties into the Mississippi 1 mile below, from Wiscon- sin. (See page 68.) Wabashaw, in Wabashaw co., Minn., about 10 miles below the mouth of the Chippewa. Fountain City, 15 miles below, in Buffalo co., Wis. Trempaleau River, 10 miles below, rises in Jackson co., Wis. It is a small stream. Minnesota City, opposite, is the capital of Winona co., Minn. Settled in 1852 by the "Western Farm and Village Association." Montoville, 5 miles below, in Trempaleau co.. Wis. Mountain Island, is a high rocky island, and one of the most remarkable places on the upper Mississippi. Its altitude has been variously estimated at from 300 to 500 feet, and, from a distance, has the appearance of rising from the middle of the river. It is a conspicuous and noted landmark. Black River, 8 miles below jNIontoville, rises near the center of Wisconsin, It is navigable for small boats about 50 miles. Before entering the Mississippi, it separates into two branches, forming a delta of some extent. Rising Sun, 4 miles below, in Winona co., Minn. Brooklyn, 2 miles below. La Crosse, capital of La Crosse co.. Wis., 2 miles below, is located upon a beautiful prairie of the same name, at the mouth of La Crosse river, and contains a court-house, 2 churches, a land office, a number of stores and mills, and commands a considerable portion of the lumber trade of La Crosse river. Population about 1000. Hokah, or Root River, enters the Mississippi from Minnesota 3 miles below the mouth of the La Crosse. 14 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Brownsville, 5 miles below, in Minnesota. Racoon River, a t-muU stream, flows into the Mississippi from Wisconsin, 5 miles below. Bad Axe River, rises in Wisconsin and joins the Mississippi 6 miles below the mouth of Racoon river. Battle Field, 2 miles below the mouth of Bad Axe rivei-, in Bad Axe CO., Wis. Upper Iowa River, rises in Minnesota and flows southerly, then north- east, through the north-eastern part of Iowa, and enters the Mississippi a short distance below the mouth of Bad Axe river, near the boundary line between Iowa and Minnesota. Lansing', 15 miles below, in Alamake co., Iowa. Lynxville, 8 miles below, in Crawford co.. Wis. Wexford, Alamake co., Iowa, is nearly opposite Lynxville. Prairie du Chien, capitol of Crawford co.. Wis., is about 100 miles west of Madison. It is situated on the borders of an extensive prairie, and occupies the site of an old Indian village, from whose chief, called by the French, Chien, it derives its name. The town contains a court-house, a fine academy, and several churches. There are excellent hunting-grounds in the vicinity of this place. The water courses and marshes are covered with wild rice, which the Indians gather for food. Numerous mounds are scattered over the land — the remains of a people whose history is unknown to us, and whose existence might have been doubted, had they not, like the builders of the pyramids, left these unmistakable evidences of their having "lived, and moved, and had a being." The terminus of the i^Iilwaukee & Mississippi Railroad is here. Pop- ulation about 2000. Prairie du Chien is 10 miles below Wexford. Fort Crawford, 1 mile below Prairie du Chien, in the same county. Fort Atkinson, Iowa, near the head waters of Turkey river, is nearly due west from this station. Wisconsin River, enters the Mississippi, from Wisconsin, 3 miles below. (See page 68.) Cincinnati, Grant co., Wis., 7 miles below the mouth of the Wisconsin river. Kilroy, opposite Cincin., in Clayton co., Iowa. Clayton, 2 miles below, in the county of same name, Iowa. Lead mines are worked near this place. Mendota, Grant co.. Wis., 7 miles below. Guttenburg, formerly Prairie du Fort, 5 miles below, in Clayton co., lo., is a thriving village. It is situated on a high blufi". Rich lead mines are worked in this neighborhood. Cassville, Grant co.. Wis., 6 miles below. A large quantity of lead is gbippod at this point, from mines in the vicinity. Population about 300. Turkey River rises in Iowa, and after a course of 150 mile.s, passing diagonally through Clayton co., enters the Mississippi, opposite Cassville. It is not navigable for steamboats. Frankford, Clayton co., Ic, is a small village at tbe mouth of Turkey river. Buena Vista, Clayton Co., lo., 5 miles below. Potosi, 12 miles below, in Grant co., Wis., on Grant river, near its mouth, THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 15 Lead abounds in this region. Potosi is an important and flourishing town, having a large trade. Population about 3000. Peru, Dubuque co., lo., 7 miles below, near the mouth of Little Makoquette river. Sinapee, Grant co., Wis., 2 miles below. Jamestown, 1 mile below, in the same county. Dubuque, capitol of Dubuque co., lo., 5 miles below. It is situated on a gently sloping prairie, in one of the ricliest lead districts in the world. It contains a land office, or 8 churches, 4 printing offices, 2 banks, several large hotels, a court-house, a number of stores, and workshops of all descriptions. The branch of the Illinois Central Railway, passing through Galena, terminates here. It is the terminus, also, of the Dubuque & Keokuk Railroad. The town was settled by the French and Canadians, about 1784. Population about 9000. Dunleith, opposite Dubuque, in Jo Daviess co., Jll. Fevre River, a small, sluggish stream, empties into the Mississippi, from 111., 15 miles below. It is navigable for steamboats to Galena, duriua; most 7 C 7 O of the year. On account of the narrowness of this stream, large boats have difficulty in getting up and down. Galena, Jo Daviess co.. 111., is situated on Fevre river, seven miles from its mouth. It is located near the center of a rich lead district, extending, on both sides of the Mississippi, from the Wisconsin to the vicinity of Rock river. It derives its name from galena, a kind of lead ore found in the vicinity. In 1822, the process of smelting was first commenced ; since that time there has been as high as 10,000,000 of pounds smelted in one year. The ore lies in hor- izontal strata, varying in thickness from a few inches to several feet, and yields 75 per cent of pure lead. Galena was first settled in 1826, and was then an outpost in the wilderness. An immense amount of business is now transacted here, as it is a place of import and export for the products of a very extensive and fertile region. There are several churches, 8 printing offices, a number of extensive manufactories, including mills, (flouring and saw mills,) sheet lead inanufiictories, &c., &c. Population about 9000. The Chicago & Galena Rail road has a terminus here, and a branch of the Illinois Central Railroad passes through. Moselle, in same county, 6 miles below the mouth of Fevre river. Bellevue, nearly opposite Moselle, is the county seat of Jackson co., lo. It is a thriving place, beautifully situated on a high blufi". It has a fine lauding, and a splendid farming region in the interior. Makoqueta River, enters the Mississippi from Iowa, 8 miles below. It furnishes a large amount of water-power. Its whole length is about 100 miles. Portsmouth, Carroll co.. 111., 5 miles below. Savannah, Carroll co.. III., 8 miles below, a short distance above the mouth of Plum creek. It contains a court-house, jail and a number of stores Population about 1000. Sahula, Clinton co., lo., 4 miles below, is a small village. Lyons, Clinton co., lo., is a place of considerable business, 15 miles below. Fulton City, Whiteside co., 111., is a flourishing village nearly opposite Lyons. Albany, Whiteside co., 1,11., 7 miles below, has an active trade. Population about 800. Camanche, Clinton co., lo., nearly opposite Albany, is a lively business place. Population about 200. 16 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Wapsipinecon River, rises in the north-eastern part of Iowa, and after a "windiug course of about 200 niilos, enters the Mississippi 7 miles below Camauche. It afi'onls excellent water-power for mills. Cordova, Kock Island co.,Ill., 4 miles below. Princeton, Scott co., lo., 1 mile below. Parkhurst, 5 miles below, in the same county. Port Byron, llock Island co., 111., a small town, 1 mile below, is near the head of the upper rapids. Le Claire, Scott co., lo., 1 mile below, is a thriving village. Hampton, llock Island co., 111., 5 miles below, it has considerable trade in earthenware. Population about 300. Davenport, county seat of Scott co., lo., 12 miles below, is one of the most iiourishiug cities on the upper Mississippi. It is situated at the foot of the upper rapids in the midst of a fertile region of country. Stone coal is found iu the vicinity. Davenport was settled in 1837. It now contains a number of flouring and saw mills, over 100 stores, many important manufacturing establish- ments, 8 or 10 churches and 3 or 4 printing oihces. Population about GOOO. A splendid rail-road bridge crosses the Mississippi at this point. The terminus of the Davenport and Missouri Railroad is here. The scenery in the vicinity of Davenport is very beautiful. The town stands on an elevated plain with a range of hills in the background. Rock Island, is the name given a large island in the Mississippi just below Davenport. Fort Armstrong, an old U. S. Blockhouse in the time of Black Hawk's wars is on the southern extremity of the Island, it stands upon a rock, near twenty feet above the surface of the river. There is a recess in this rock called Black Haiclcs Cave, where, it is said, he often concealed himself. It was here that Col. Davenport was murdered, July, 1845, by a party of lawless wretch- es. The Mississippi at this point is very rapid; it falls 21 feet 10 inches in the distance of 15 miles. Ledges of rock extend across the river, and, at low water, greatly obstruct the navigation. The country around Rock Island is exceedingly rich. It consists mostly of prairie land, rising in a succession of little knolls, which at a distance, appear like the swells of the ocean, as it rolls about the verdant islands of the East. After leaving the river, the land rises gradually into a chain of rounded hills, thinly covered with trees. The Indians regard this as their promised land. Moline, Rock Island co.. 111., is a thriving manufacturing village opposite the head of Rock Island, and has considerable water-power from the rapids of the river. Rock Island City, 3 miles below, opposite the foot of Rock Island, is the capital of Rock Island co., 111. A number of extensive manufactories are carried on here, having the advantages of excellent water-power. It is the ter- minus of the Chicago & Rock Island Railroad. Population about 4500. Rock River, enters the Mississippi 2 miles below Rock Island city, from Illinois. (See p;ige G8.) Buffalo, Scott CO., lo., 5 miles below the mouth of Rock river. Andalusia, Rock Island co.. 111., nearly opposite Buffalo. Iowa, Muscatine co., Ic, 8 miles below. Fairport, 7 miles below in the same county. Muscatine, 6 miles below, county seat of Muscatine co., lo., is one of the most flourishing towns in the State. Iowa city is 32 miles north-west. Musca- tine was laid oSt in 1836, being previously an Indian trading post. It is the THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 17 phipping point for a large and fertile region of country. It contains a fine court- house, 9 or 10 churches, 3 printing offices, 7 hotels, a large number of stores and warehouses, 2 steam flouring and 2 steam saw mills. Population about 5500. Port Louisa, Louisa co., lo., 16 miles below. New Boston, 10 miles below, in Mercer co., III., is a thriving village with an active trade, it has a good landing, and is surrounded by a fertile country. Population about 800, Iowa Elver, enters the Mississippi from Iowa, just below New Boston. (See page 69.) Keithsburg, county scat of Mercer county. 111., 7 miles below the mouth of Iowa river, is a flourishing village. Large amounts of produce are shipped from here. It is a good landing place. Population about 600. Huron, Dcs Moines co., lo., 9 miles below. Oquawka, capitol of Henderson co.. 111., 10 miles below, is a place of active business. It contains 2 or 3 printing offices, a court-house, a number of stores, and a population of about 1200. Burlington, 15 miles below, is the county seat of Des Moines co., lo., and before 1839 was the capitol of the State. The river here is a broad and beautiful stream. The town is very pleasantly situated, partly on high ground, overlooking delightful scenery. Burlington contains a number of fine churches, schools, academics, &c., 4 printing offices, and a large number of business houses, mills, foundries, manufactories of diflerent kinds, extensive pork packing houses, «fec. Population about 8000. The terminus of the Burlington & Peoria Rail- road is here ; also, the Burlington & Missouri Railroad. Skunk River, empties into the Mississippi 8 miles below Burlington, from Iowa. It rises near the center of the State, and furnishes extensive water- power through a rich region of country. Pontoosue, 7 miles below, in Hancock co., 111., is a flourishing village, surrounded by a fertile country. Population about 600. Appanoose, 5 miles below in same county. Fort Madison, county seat of Lee co., lo., 3 miles below. It became a ■ town in 1835; since that time it has increased rapidly. The town occupies the site of an old fortification, built in 1808, as a defense against the Indians, who, .in 1813, obliged the garrison to abandon and bui-n the fort. It contains a handsome court-house, a number of elegant churches, the Iowa Penitentiary, several spacious hotels, and is largely engaged in various branches of manufac- turing and trade. There are 2 or 3 printing offices here, and it is a ship- ping point for large quantities of produce, and an extensive lumber depot. Pop- ulation about 3500. Nauvoo, 8 miles below, in Hancock co , 111., the sacred city of the Mormons, is the most remarkable city in the Union. It is situated on a high slope, elevated several feet above the surface of the river. The location is one of the best in the West. The land was purchased by the Mormons, and the city laid out in 1840, under the direction of Joe Smith. It was 12 miles in circumfer- ence — streets regular, crossing each other at right-angles. The dwellings were mostly plain, with the exception of the Great Temple, which was one of the finest buildings in the West ; it was 130 feet long, 88 feet wide, 65 feet to the top of the cornice, and 163 to the top of the cupola, and cost over half a million of dollars. It was designed to accommodate a congregation of 3,000 persons. The basement of the temple contained the hapthtry, or brazen sea, in which new converts were baptized. This pool was supported by twelve gilded, colossal oxen, 2 18 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. and was designed to imitate the brazen sea of Solomon. In the erection of this magnificent structure, most of the male population were engaged. Each one considered it his duty to contribute as far as he was able, believing he was erect- ing a temple which would stand till the end of time. The Mormons, supposing themselves the true Latter Day Saints, into whose hands the earth would soon pass, did not, at all times, pay a due regard to the rights and privileges of others. This constantly brought them into difiSculty ; and though often in fault, yet they were persecuted beyond measure. Smith and others of his sect were arrested and thrown into prison, where, in June, 1844, they were murdered by a lawless mob, without even the form of a trial. In October, 1848, the temple was fired, and soon reduced to a heap of ruins. The city is now in the hands of a band of French Socialists. Only a small number of the dwellings are occupied — the Mormon population, which at one time exceeded 15000, removed to Utah, and built the " Great Salt Lake City." The present population of Nauvoo is about 2000. The Mormons first appeared in the United States about 1830. Joseph Smith, their prophet, pretended to have found an addition to the Bible, engraved on twelve golden plates. After being submitted to Professor Anthon, and others, who pronounced the inscriptions a mess of jargon, he, by Divine assistance, was enabled to get a correct translation, which he published under the title of the Booh of Mormon. Montrose, nearly opposite Nauvoo, in Lee co., lo., is situated on an ele- vated prairie which commands a view of the river and country for 20 miles around; Numerous Indian mounds, the depositories of the ancient dead, are found in the vicinity. This town stands at the head of the Lower Rapids, and is the place of reshipping in time of low water. Population about 1000. BTashville, Lee co., lo., is a small village 4 miles below. ^ Montebello, Hancock co.. 111., 6 miles below. Keokuk, 4 miles below, in Lee co., lo., situated at the foot of the Des Moines, or Lower rapids, is a place of large business. In low water large boats from below can not pass the rapids ; their freight is discharged at Keokuk, conveyed to Montrose, and reshipped on smaller boats. The fall of the rapids is 24 feet in 12 miles. Keokuk stands upon a limestone rock formation, which affords an excellent building material. The place contains 8 or 9 churches, several acad- emies and schools, 2 printing offices, flouring mills and foundries, and a large number of stores, &c. Population nearly 6500. Hamilton City, Hancock co.. 111., nearly opposite Keokuk. Warsaw, 4 miles below, in Hancock co.. 111., stands on a high bluff at the foot of the rapids, near the site of old Fort Edwards. The situation is very favorable for trade, and a large business is done in receiving and shipping mer- chandise and produce. Warsaw contains several mills, a large number of busi- ness houses, and manufactories. Population about 4000. Des Moines River, enters the Mississippi from Iowa, nearly opposite Warsaw. (See page 70.) Alexandria, Clark co.. Mo., on Fox river near its entrance into the Missis- sippi. Fox Eiver , a small stream, rises in Daviss co., lo., and entprs the Mississippi from Mo., about 2 miles below the mouth of the Des Moines river. Des Moines City, 6 miles below, in Clark co.. Mo. Tully, Lewis co., Mo., 12 miles below, is a flourishing place. Large quan- tities of produce are shipped from here. It is pleasantly situated, and contains •^e/Te^, Bloody I. '^■^oujs!ihwf!!nnuoisu>.^ MISSISSIPPI No 1. Fine's (, 20 THE illSBISSIP PI RIVER. 2 or 3 churches, 2 steam mills, and a number of stores. Population about 800. Laid out in 1833. Lagrange, 6 miles below, in same county, near the mouth of Wyaconda river, is a place of considerable business. It contains several churches, a college, a flouring mill, &c. Population about 700. ftuincy, 12 miles below, is the county seat of Adams co., 111. It is situ- ated on a beautiful elevation 125 feet above the Mississippi, and commands a fine view of the river for 5 or 6 miles in each direction. It contains a largo pub- lic square, a good court-house, a land office, 8 or 10 printing offices, about 20 churches ; 3 banks, a number of extensive mills and manufactories, and a largo number of stores and commission houses, also foundries, machine shops, distil- leries, pork houses, &c. The country in its vicinity is a beautifully rolling and rich prairie, and one of the finest agricultural regions in the State. Large quantities of produce ai-e annually shipped from here, by steamboats and other craft, which can navigate the river, from this place down, at any season of the year. Popu- lation about 12000. Quincy is the terminus of the Northern Cross Railroad. Fabin's Eiver, enters the Mississippi opposite Quincy. Near its mouth this river branches — north Fabin's and south Fabin's — the sources of each branch being about 150 miles from the point where they unite. Neither branch is nav- igable for steamboats. Marion City, 7 miles below, in Marion co.. Mo., is a thriving village and the shipping port for the interior. The soil of this county is very rich, and abounds in fine timber, bituminous coal, salt springs, and lead. Aston, opposite Marion city, in Adams co.. 111. Booneville, 3 miles below, in same county. Hannibal, Marion co.. Mo., 7 miles below, is a shipping port for large quantities of pork, hemp, tobacco and other produce raised in the vicinity. Stone coal and an excellent limestone for building purposes are abundant near the place. Hannibal is the terminus of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad. It contains a large number of stores and warehouses, 2 or 3 printing offices and a population of about 3800. Dayton, opposite Hannibal, in Adams co., 111. Saverton, 8 miles below, in Ralls co.. Mo. Salt River, empties into the Mississippi 18 miles below. Three branches of this river — the north, middle, and south forks — unite at Florida, Monroe CO., Mo., about 85 miles from its mouth, and form the main stream, to which point it is navigable for small steamers. Cincinnati, Ralls co., Mo., is on Salt river, about 20 miles below Florida. Louisiana, Pike co., Mo., 2 miles below the mouth of Salt river, contains a number of stores and warehouses, and 2 printing offices. Population about 1000. Clarksville, 12 miles below, in same county. Hamburgh, 15 miles below, in Calhoun co., 111., is a flourishing town. It has a good landing, and employs considerable capital in mercantile and manufac- turing pursuits. Population 800. Gilead, Calhoun co., 111., 9 miles below, is situated a short distance from the river. It was formerly the county seat. Population about 800. Riviere au Cuivre, a small stream, enters the Mississippi, from Mo., 15 miles below Gilead. Deer Plain, 12 miles below, in Calhoun co. Mo. ^JS-^^^^.v 22 THE MISSISSIPPI IIIVER. Illinois River, enters the Mississippi 6 miles below Deer Plain. (Sec page 71.) Craft on, Jersey co., 111., just below the mouth of the Illinois river, is a small village. Population about 350. Portage des Sioux, St. Charles co.^ Mo., 7 miles below. Randolph, 4 miles below, in Jersey co., 111. Alton, 7 miles below, in Madison co., 111., was laid out in 1818. Up to the year 1832, it contained only a few houses and a steam mill. In that year, the Penitentiary of the State was erected here. After which it improved rapidly, and many fine buildings were put up. It is handsomely laid out in wide, beautiful streets, and contains 6 or 8 churches, a lyeeum and theological seminary, and a lar<^e number of stores, commission houses, pork houses and manufactories. It is fovorably situated for trade, and has an excellent landing. Alton is the ter- minus of the Chicago and Mississippi Railroad, also of the Terre Haute & Alton Railroad. Population about 5000. This city is surrounded, for several miles in extent, with one of the finest bodies of timber in the State. Bituminous coal exists in creat abundance only a short distance from the town. Inexhaustible beds of limest^one, for building purposes, and easily quarried, are within its precincts. A species of freestone, easily dressed, and used for monuments and architectural purposes, and that peculiar species of lime, used for water-cement, are found in great abundance, in the vicinity. The corporate bounds extend 2 mile along the river, and half-a-mile back. The city plat was laid out, by the proprietors, upon a liberal scale. There are 5 squares reserved for public purposes, and a large reservation was made on the river for a public lauding and promenade. Missouri River, enters the Mississippi 5 miles below Alton. (See page 73.) Chippewa, 1 mile below the mouth of the Missouri river, in Madison co., 111. Madison, 2 miles below, in same co. Venice, in same co., 8 miles below. Bremen, 2 miles below, in St. Louis co., Mo. St. Louis, 4 miles below, was selected by Mr. Laclede (the manager for a company of merchants, who had obtained the monopoly of the Indian fur trade, on the Mississippi and Missouri rivers), as a depot for their merchandise. Mr. Laclede, after examining numerous BT.^^o™S^Ni.. points on tbe Mississippi, foresaw and predicted the future importance of the town, to ^^^^^^l?.^^ .f!^^ ^^^ nameTf St. Louis, in honor of Louis XV of France, and in Dec. 1 - 63 he had a poSn of the ground, on which it stands, cleared, and returned to Fort Chartres to make preparati^on for the establishment of his new colony. He was accompanied m Ss vis't by two young Creoles of xNew Orleans, Augustus and Pierre Chouteau, whom le despltched, in the February following, with men and materials to com- plete the settkment.' During the summer of 1764, many of the French from ?he Vic nirof Fort ChartresT removed to St. Louis. This emigration was soon checkeT Ify tbe cession of' that territory to the King of Spain. It was no ^=d^i;3^i^^ t:::tr^^ ^^:^^ large body of Indians, numbering from 900 to i5UU. ine womeu auv» St. Otntvive \ St. Generhre I jiaskaskia i\ ' Saline Cr. Horse I. \m Chester. Mary '8 R. Port Perry. *»iN MISSISSIPPI NO. 3. jf^ A^ %&\ ttl ■! liberty. Lacoaraee I ^ Hat 1. Wittenberg. « 34 TEE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. children who could not take part in the defense, took shelter in the house of Auguste Chouteau, whilst all those, both men and women, who wore within the palisades, cornmeuced so vigorous a resistance, that the enemy was forced to retreat. But, with their characteristic ferocity, threw themselves upon those of the inhabitants, who engaged in the cultivation of their lields, had not time to reach tlie palisades, and it is said that GO were killed and 13 made prisoners. The year this attack took place is called by the French, " V Anec du Grand Coup — the year of the great blow." After this, the inhabitants finding their garrison insufficient to protect them, sent Mr. A. Chouteau to New Orleans for assistance. Cruzat was made com- mander of St. Louis, and a wooden fort erected on the most elevated spot within the city, upon which several heavy pieces of ordnance were mounted, and still later, 4 stone turrets were added, from which cross fires could be kept up. No traces of this fortification are now to be seen. St. Louis is the capitol of St. Louis co., Mo., and the largest town in the State, situated in Lat. 38° 37' north. It rests on a bed of limestone rising from 20 to 60 feet above the floods of the Mississippi. At this elevation an extensive plain opens to view. The city extends along the river 6 or 7 miles. Some of the prominent buildings of St. Louis are, a splendid court-house, erected at a cost of over half a million of dollars, the Planter's House, United States Hotel, Virginia Hotel, Missouri tlotel. City Hospital, Marine Hospital, Home for the Friendless, Church of the Messiah (Unitarian), Catholic Cathedral, St. George's, Church (Episcopal), and the U. S. Arsenal. St. Louis contains about 60 churches, of difi'erent denominations, the University of St. Louis, the Missouri University, a Mercantile Library Association, in a very flourishing condition, with a large and increasing library and fine reading room. The public schools receive the special attention of the citizens ; a large number of pupils are in daily attendance, and the seminaries and private schools are, also, well patronized. There are some 25 or 30 printing offices in St. Louis, a number of them issuing daily, tri-weekly, and weekly newspapers, with a large circulation. The city is supplied with water, from reservoirs, forced up from the river by stationary engines, and distributed through iron pipes. The location of St. Louis, for commerce, is second to none in the West. It is the center of an immense and fertile region, watered by the largest rivers in the world. There are a vast number of steamboats in its trade, many of them of the largest class, navigating the rivers from near the Alleghany to the Rocky Mountains, and from the northern lakes to the Gulf of Mexico. The flouring, the pork packing, and the sugar refining business, are carried on here very exten- sively, and a great number of important manufacturing establishments on a large scale. The terminus of the St. Louis and Pacific Kailroad, is here ; and the Ohio & Mississippi Railroad, and others, have their terminus in Illinois, opposite. The population of the city has increased rapidly : in 1810, it was less than 2000; in 1830, it was 7000 3 in, 1840, it was 16000; in 1845, 35,000; in 1850, 70000 ; in 1852, about 90000, and it is now estimated at over 100,000. Illinoistown, St. Clair co., 111., on the east side of the Mississippi, opposite St. Louis, is the western terminus of the Ohio & Mississippi Railroad. Popula- tion about 600. Cahokia, 4 miles below, in St. Clair co.. 111., is one of the oldest settlementw in the State. It was occupied by the Caoquias, a tribe of Illinois Indians, long before the discovery of the Mississippi. The French settled on it shortly after La Salle descended the Mississippi, probably about the year 1683. In 1766, it contained 40 families, and now about 50. The majority of the houses are built of pickets, one story high, having piazzas on each side, and, being white-washed, Dunkins Bar ObrazoR Grand Tower ils bakt oven Breeseville. Sandy I. Muddy R. MISSISSIPPI. No. 4. BirmvBgham. *ft '^Pe Q ''"^"''iii f' Hamburg DevUs Is. Sew "fort HThebea. 26 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. present a pleasant appearance. The inhabitants are principally French. By an act of Congress, passed in 1788, a grant of 400 acres of land, adjoining the village, was made to each family. The situation is somewhat elevated, but un- healthy, and Americans seldom pass a season in it without suffering from the miasma of the surrounding ponds. Stone coal is found in the vicinity. Carondalet, St. Louis co., Mo., formerly called Vide Poche (empty pocket), 1 mile below, is a small village principally occupied by the French, who supply ve<^ctablc8 for the St. Louis market. It was settled in 1767. Jefferson Barracks, St. Louis co., 5 miles below, is one of the most cxten- sive U. S. military establishments in the West, and has a large cavalry school attached, from which the mounted troops upon the frontiers are supplied. Maramec Eiver, rises in Crawford and Washington counties. Mo., and flows north-east, then south-east, and enters the Mississippi 9 miles below Jefferson Barracks. It is navigable some 60 miles. Clifton, 10 miles below, in Jefferson co.. Mo. Harrisonville, 2 miles below, in Monroe co., 111. Herculaneum, Jefferson co.. Mo., 2 miles below, is a flourishing town. There are a number of shot towers here, and in the vicinity, and being a principal port of the lead district, a large amount of lead and shot are annually exported. — Population 700. Piatt in Rock, 1 mile below, in same co. Selma, 2 miles below, in same co., has a good landing, and carries on consid- erable trade in lead. Shot are also made here in large quantities. Population about 400. Rush Tower, 4 miles below, in same co., is a small village. Fort Chartres, 9 miles below, in Randolph co., Ill, was an old French fort, built in 1720, as a defence against the Spaniards. It was taken possession of by the English in 1765 by virtue of the treaty of Fontainbleau. It is now a heap of ruins. The walls are fast crumbling away, and vines and trees are springing up around these venerable remains. This fort was designed to be the strongest on the continent: Its walls were built of solid masonry, in quadrangular form, 490 feet in circumference. It was the head quarters of the commandant in upper Louisiana, and the center of fashion in the West. St. Genevieve, capitol of St. Genevieve co.. Mo., 11 miles below, is pleasant- ly situated, and a place of considerable business. It exports large quantities of lead, iron, copper, limestone and a white silicious sand, a very fine article used at Pittsburgh and other places for making glass. St. Genevieve was settled by the French about 1750. It contains the usual county buildings, and 2 printing offices. Population about 2000. Directly back of this town, a few miles, is Potosi. It is located in the finest mineral district in the United States. ^ The Iron Mountain, the greatest natural curiosity in the West, is in the vicinity. This mountain is said to be an almost solid mass of ore. St. Mary's Landing, 10 miles below, in same county, is a small village. 5 Pratt's Landing, Perry co.. Mo., 2 miles below, is a small place. Kaskaskia River, enters the Mississippi from Illinois, 3 miles below. (Seo page 79.) This is the southern terminus of the great American Bottom, which extends northerly, on the river, for 80 miles. Chester, Ptandolph co., 111., 1 mile below the mouth of the Kaskaskia river. The town is built on an elevated bottom, and is the commercial depository of a fine country. It is a flourishing place. Population about 1600. Commerce. ^. MISSISSIPPI New Phila4elph SaldvinsTille. g: Hickman Cy., Ky. 28 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Mary's River, 4 miles below, rises in Illinois and flows soulli-west into the Mississippi. It is a small stream, and not navigable. Port Perry, Perry co., Mo., 3 miles below, is a small village. Liberty, Randolph co., 111., 4 miles below. Wittemberg, 17 miles below, in Perry co., Mo. Devil's Bake-oven and Grand Tower, 5 and 6 miles below. These are nanios given to a portion nf a gigantic range of rocks, rising to a considerable height on both sides of the river, nearly midway between St. Louis and the mouth of the Ohio. The summits of this range are covered with vegetation, which looks smilino-ly down upon the water as it dashes against its base. The cur- rent here is very swift; and by its force and constant wearing away of the cliffs, it has Siiparated a large portion, which stands, like a gigantic column in the midst of the waves. Such is '' Grand Tower," which rises nearly 50 feet above the surface of the river. Those hardy boatmen, who navigated our western waters before the introduc- tion of steam, dreaded this place more than any other on the river. The only way they could ascend the river, was to pull their boats along the Illinois shore by means of ropes. The Indians, who were always on the lookout for plunder, would conceal themselves in the bushes, and, when a fiivorable opportunity offered, fall upon them. Thus many valuable lives and cargoes were lost, in attempting that which steam now performs in perfect safety. Breeseville, Jackson co., 111., 2 miles below, is a small village. Muddy River, 4 miles below, rises in Illinois and flows south-west into the Mississippi. It is navigable only for a short distance. Birmingham, 4 miles below, in Cape Girardeau co., Mo., near the mouth of Apple creek, is a small village. Union Point, opposite Birmingham, in Union co.. 111. Devil's Tea-table and Cornice Rocks, 3 miles below, are great natural curiosities. The water has worn the rocks into regular shapes, representing continuous rows of cornice work and other architectural devices of the greatest beauty, which hang majestically over the river. Bainbridge, 6 miles below, in Cape Girardeau co.. Mo. Hamburg, Union co., III., opposite Bainbridge. Cape Girardeau, in the county of the same name, 10 miles below. It has a number of good stores and mills, 2 academies, 3 schools, and 1 convent. It is the seat of St. Mary's college, founded in 1830 j which now has a president, 5 professors, and a library of 2500 volumes. Population 1500. The country around it is very fertile, and thickly inhabited, for forty or fifty miles back, to the New Madrid settlements. Thebes, 9 miles below, capital of Alexander co., 111. New York, nearly opposite Thebes, in Scott co.. Mo. Commerce, 3 miles below, in same co., contains a number of stores. It haa considerable trade, and a fine region of country back. Population about 400. New Philadelphia, 7 miles below, in same co. Ohio City, Mississippi co., Mo., 21 miles below, is a flourishing plaee, nearly opposite Cairo and the mouth of the Ohio river. Ohio River, and Cairo — (See pages 88 and 122.) ron Banks MISSISSIPPI No. 6. Ft. Pleasant::;^ 30 TEE MISSISSIPPI BIVER. Island No. 1, 6 miles below the mouth of the Ohio, opposite which, in Kcntuclcy, a .short distance from the river, are the remains of Fort Jeiferson, erected by Gen. George Rogers Clark, in the spring of 1780. This fort was built by order of Gov. Jcficrson, of Virginia, in order to protect the navigation of the Mississippi, and secure it to that State, in which this territory was then included. Norfolk, Mississippi co., Mo., opposite Island No. 1. Bickwith's, 7 miles below, in same co., is a small village. Bald wins ville, 5 miles below, in same co., is a small place. Population about 200. Columbus, 4 miles below, capitol of Ballard co., Ky. It contains several extensive warehouses, aud a population of about GOO. Just above it are the Iron banks, extending along the river, on the same side, for about 2 miles. They derive the name from the color of the banks resembling iron rust. Hickman, formerly Mills Point, county seat of Fulton co., Ky., 20 miles below, is a flourishing town. It contains 10 or 12 stores, and commission and forwarding houses, 2 or 3 churches, a printing office, a large tobacco stemery, and a bank. Large quantities of tobacco, corn, cotton, cattle, poultry, &c., are annually shipped from here, it being the depot for the products of a large and fertile section of country. It is the starting point for the stage route to Nashville. Population about 600. New Madrid, 44 miles below, is the county seat of New Madrid co., Mo. It carries on a large trade in shipping produce, cattle, lumber, &c. It has a printing office and a population of about 500. This point was the scene of a violent earthquake in 1811. The following account of it is from the pen of Dr. Ilildreth of Marietta, 0., and published in Perkins' Annals of the West. " The center of its violence was thought to be near the Little Prairie, 25 or 30 miles below New Madrid — the vibrations from which were felt all over the valley of the Ohio, as high up as Pittsburgh. * * * * New Madrid, having suffered more than any other town on the Mississippi from its effects, was considered as situ- ated near the focus, from whence the undulations proceeded. From an eye-witness, who was then about 40 miles below that town, in a flat-boat, on his way to New Orleans, with a load of produce, and who narrated the scene to me, the agitation which convulsed the earth and the waters of the mighty Mississippi, filled every living creature with horror. The first shock took place in the night (Dec. 1 G, 1811), while the boat was lying at the shore, in company with several others. At this period, there was danger apprehended from the Southern Indians, it being soon after the battle of Tippecanoe, and for safety several boats kept in company, for mutual defense, in case of an attack. In the middle of the night, there was a terrible shock and jarring of the boats, so that the crews were all awakened, and hurried on deck, with their weapons of defense in their hands, thinking the Indians were rushing on board. The ducks, geese, swans, and various other aquatic birds, whose numberless flocks were quietly resting in the eddies of the river, were thrown into the greatest tumult, and, with loud screams, expressed their alarms in accents of terror. The noise and commotion soon became hushed, - and nothing could be discovered to excite apprehension ; so that the boatmen concluded that the shock was occasioned by the falling in of a large mass of the bank of the river near them. As soon as it was light enough to distinguish ob- jects, the crews were all up, making ready to depart. Directly a loud roaring and hissing was heard, like the escape of steam from a boiler, accompanied by the most Violent agitation of the shores, and tremendous boiling up of the waters of the Mississippi, in huge swells rolling the waters below, back on the descend- ing stream, and tossing the boats about so violently that the men, with difficulty, lUddle'a Obion Cy., Tenn. Dyer Cy., Tenxi 32 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. could keep their feet. The sand-bars and points of the islands gave way, swal- lowed up in the tumultuous bosom of the river, carrying down with them the cotton-wood trees, cracking and crashing, tossing their arras to and fro, as if Bensible of their danger, while they disappeared beneath the flood. The water of the river, which, the day before, was tolerably clear, being rather low, changed to a reddish hue, and became thick with mud, thrown up from its bottom; while the surface, lashed violently by the agitation of the earth beneath, was covered with foam, which, gathering into masses the size of a barrel, floated along on the trembling surface. The earth on the shores opened in wide fissures, and, clo^^ing again, threw the water, sand, and mud, in huge jets, higher than the tops of the trees. The atmosphere was filled with a thick vapor, or gas, to which the light imparted a purple tinge, altogether different, in appearance, from the autumnal haze of Indian summer, or that of smoke. From the temporary check to the current, by the heaving up of the bottom, the sinking of the banks and sand-bars into tlie bed of the stream, the river rose, in a few minutes 5 or 6 feet; and, im- patient of the restraint, again rushed forward witli redoubled impetuosity, hurrying along the boats, now set loose by the horror-struck boatmen, as in less danger on the water than at the shore, where the banks threatened every moment to destroy them by the falling earth, or carry them down in the vortices of the sinking masses. Many boats were overwhelmed in this manner, and their crews perished with them. It required the utmost exertions of the men, to keep the boat, of which my informant was the owner, in the middle of the river, as far from the shores, sand-bars, and islands, as they could. Numerous boats were wrecked on the snags and old trees thrown up from the bottom of the Mississippi, where they had quietly rested for ages; while others were sunk or stranded on the sand-bars and islands. At New Madrid, several boats wero carried, by the reflux of the current, into a small stream that puts into the river just above the town, and left on the ground by the returning waters, a considerable distance from the Mississippi. * * * The sulphurated gasscs that were discharged during the shocks, tainted the air with their noxious efiluvia, and so strongly impregnated the water of the river, to the distance of 150 miles below, that it could hardly be used for any purpose for several days. New Madrid, which stood on a bluff, 15 or 20 feet above the summer floods, sunk so low, that the next rise covered it to the depth of 5 feet. The bottoms of several fine lakes in the vicinity were elevated, so as to become dry land, and have since been planted with corn." Slight oscillations and shocks continued to be felt for years, along this region. Point Pleasant, 7 miles below, in the same county, is a thriving village. Large quantities of corn are shipped from this place. Riddle's Point, 3 miles below, in the same co., is a landing place for goods destined for the interior, and for the receipt of produce. The whole country, for miles, along the river, is extremely rich, yielding immense quantities of corn. Walker's Bend, 18 miles below. This is simply a large bend of the river, so named by the boatmen. Little Prairie, 7 miles below, in New Madrid co., Mo. Population 500. This is the point where, it is thought, was the center of the vibrations of the great earthquake. Needham's Cut-off, 24 miles below. These cut-ofi"s are channels formed by the current, in the circular bends of the river. The floods are constantly washing away the banks, thus opening new channels for the current. These frequent changes, in the channel, render the navigation of the river quite intricate. Obion Elver, rises in West Tennessee and flows south-west into the Mis- c^-^^" ■M' 34 TEE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Bissippi, just above Needham's Cut-off — its whole length is estimated at 150 miles. It is navigable for 60 miles. Hale's Point, at the lower side of Needham's Cut-off. Bearfield Landing, 2 miles below, in Mississippi co., Ark. Forked Deer River flows from West Tennessee, and enters the Mississippi 4 miles below Bearfield. It is navigable for keel boats, some 150 miles, to Jackson. Ashport, Lauderdale co., Tenn., 2 miles below, near the lower end of the Canadian Reach. It has several warehouses and a steam saw-mill. Population 200. Osceola, 12 miles below, county seat of Mississippi co., Ark., is a smali village, just at the head of Plum Point Bars. Plum Point. — This is one of the most diflBcult places to pass on the Mississippi. From the frequent changes in the channel, bars have been thrown up, in which a large amount of drift has become imbedded, rendering navigatioa very difficult. Quite a number of of boats have been lost here. 1st Chickasaw Bluff, 6 miles below. These bluffs, which are 4 in number, are merely ordinary banks, extending for a few miles along the river. The highest is elevated about 30 feet above high water mark. After passing these banks, the country bordering on the river is very low. Fulton, Lauderdale co., Tenn., 4 miles below, on the lower extremity of the 1st Chickasaw Bluff. It contains several warehouses, and a number of dwellings and has some trade in cotton. It is supported by a rich country. Population 400. Hatchee River enters the Mississippi 10 miles below Fulton. It rises in Mississippi, and flows through Hardeman and Haywood counties, Tenn., and is the boundary line between Lauderdale and Tipton counties, Tenn. It is navigable to Bolivar, the county seat of Hardeman co., about 75 miles. Randolph, Tipton co., Tenn., at the mouth of the Hatchee river, near the head of the 2d Chickasaw bluff. Large quantities of cotton are shipped from this place. . Pecan Point, 10 miles below, in Mississippi co.. Ark. 3rd Chickasaw Bluff, 10 miles below. This bluff is separated from the main channel of the river by a slough, which is only navigable in high stages of water. Greenock, Crittenden co.. Ark., 27 miles below is a small village. Popu- lation about 200. } Mound City, 12 miles below, in same co. "Wolf River rises in the northern part of the State of Mississippi, and flows in a westerly direction till it joins the Mississippi just above Memphis. It ianot navigable. Memphis, 8 miles below Mound city, in Shelby co., Tenn., is beautifully situated on the 4th Chickasaw Bluff, just below the mouth of Wolf river. This spot was formerly the site of Fort Assumption, used for the purpose of protecting the country against the Chickasaws, to chastise whom a French army of nearly 4000, white, red, and black, were gathered here. They remained in a state of inactivity, from the summer of 1739 to the spring of 1740, during which time, hundreds of them sickened and died, when in March of the last named year, peace was concluded. The bluff, on which Memphis stands, is 30 feet above the highest floods, and its base is washed by the river, for a distance of 3 miles, while a bed of sand-stone, the only known stratum of rocks below the Ohio, juts into the stream and forms a convenient landing. From the Ohio to Vicksburgh, a distance of 600 miles, it is the only site for a commercial mart, on liiu Mound City Shelby Cy., Tenn. WolfK. Memphin MISSISSIPPI NO. 9. •13 H*. o ?• Commerce. 36 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. either side of the Mississippi. The beautiful situation of Memphis, and its con- nection with a fine country, together with the great distance from any other point on the river, where a large city can be built, give it superior advantages. Immense quantities of cotton are grown in the interior country, and this is the principal mart and shippiug point for it. 120,000 bales are annually shipped from this place. It contains 6 or 7 churches, 2 medical schools, a number of private schools, a large number of stores and extensive warehouses, 6 or 8 printing offices, and a population of about 14,000. Memphis is the western terminus of the Memphis & Charleston Railroad. Pickering, 2 miles below, in same co., contains several large commission houses. It has an excellent landing. Grayson, Crittenden co., Ark., 6 miles below. Norfolk, 2 miles below, in De Soto co., Miss., is a small village. Blue's Point, 18 miles below, in Crittenden co., Ark. Commerce, De Soto co., Miss., 2 miles below, is a small village. Austin, county seat of Tunica co., Miss., 6 miles below, is a flourishing town. Population about 300. St. Francis River enters the Mississippi from Arkansas, 20 miles below Austiu. It rises in Missouri, and flows almost parallel with the Mississippi for a great distance, and drains the lakes and cypress swamps along its course. Its whole length is about 450 miles, and for 150 miles it is navigable at some sea- sons of the year. Sterling, Phillips co., Arkansas, is a small trading post, at the mouth of the St. Francis river. Helena, county seat of Phillips co., Ark., 10 miles below, is a flourishing town. It contains a court-house, a jail, a U. S. land office, and several printing offices. In the summer of 1852, Helena was nearly destroyed by fire. Popula- tion about 500. There is a very handsome range of hills immediately back of it — the only ones seen along the river for some distance. Considerable cotton, brought down the St. Francis river, and from the interior country, is shipped from this place. Yazoo Pass or Bayoa, 8 miles below, in Koahoma co., connects the Mis- sissippi river with the Yazoo river at this point, enabling flat-boats to pass through an immense section of fertile country, on the latter river, a distance of nearly 300 miles. Extensive cotton plantations are all along the course of the Yazoo. Delta, capital of Koahoma co., Miss., on the lower side of the bayou, ia a Bmall village. Prier's Point, 6 miles below, in same county. Horse-Shoe Bend and Cut-off, just below. This is a large bend of the rivtr, so called from its resemblance to a horse-shoe. A cut-off has been made across it. Old Town, Phillips CO., Ark., 3 miles below. Barney's, 10 miles below, in same co. Concordia, Bolivar co., Miss., 30 miles below, is a small village. Montgomery's Point, 10 miles below, in Desha co.. Ark., is the landing place for goods destined to the White river country. Victoria, opposite, in Bolivar co., Miss., is also a landing point for the in- terior country. It was near this point that the great De Soto first beheld the Mississippi, some- MISSISSIPPI NO. 10. 38 TSl: MISSISSIPPI RIVER. where between Helena and the mouth of White river. This expedition, ever memorable in the history of our country, sailed from Havana on the 12th of May, 1539. After a voyage of two weeks, the fleet landed in a small bay on the coast of Florida. Fired by a thirst for gold, and ambitious to be the first discoverers of the country, they eagerly plunged into the wilds of Florida and began their search for gold. The natives opposed them at every step. In order to make himself as secure as possible, De Soto always contrived to get possession of the chief of the country through which he was passing, whom he held a prisoner, as security for the good conduct of his people. After wandering about for more than 2 years, through a populous and hostile country, he at length reached the Mis- sissippi. He crossed the river and wandered about Arkansas, in the neighbor- hood of White river. Provisions failing, and suffering from the coldness of the winter, he again directed his course toward the Mississippi, which he reached about 20 miles below the mouth of the Arkansas river. The fatigues and disap- pointments of the expedition began to weigh so heavily on his mind, that they brought on a fever, which soon terminated his existence. He died at the age of 42, a stranger in a strange land. White River enters the Mississippi from Arkansas, 4 miles below Victoria. (See page 79.) Arkansas River empties into the Mississippi 16 miles below the mouth of White river. (See page 80.) Napoleon, just below the mouth of Arkansas river, in Desha co.. Ark., is the depot and landing place for goods destined for, and produce brought down, that river. The U. S. Government has established a marine hospital here. Pop- ulation about 1100, Bolivia, capital of Bolivar co.. Miss., 13 miles below the mouth of Ar- kansas river, is a small place. Gaines' Landing, Chicot co.. Ark., 35 miles below. Columbia, 18 miles below, is the county seat of Chicot co.. Ark. It is a very pleasant place, containing a number of stores, a court-house, and a popu- lation of about 400. Here commences the great cotton growing region, and the banks of the river are almost one succession of plantations. Just below this commences the growth of the Spanish moss. Point Chicot, 4 miles below, in Ark., was formerly the county seat of Chicot CO. Greenville, 4 miles below, county seat of Washington co., Miss., is a small village. Population about 300. Worthington Landing, 22 miles below in Washington co.. Miss. Grand Lake Landing, 6 miles below, in Chicot co.. Ark. Grand Lake is a short distance back of the landing. Princeton, county seat of Washington co.. Miss., 4 miles below, is a landing point for the plantations in the neighborhood of Lake Washington, 5 miles in the interior. It is a small village. Population about 300. Bunche's Bend and Cut-off is 10 miles below Princeton. This cut-off runs through a swamp, and is but a few miles across ; while the main channel €ows round a circular bend of nearly 18 miles. Providence, 19 miles below, capital of Carroll parish, La., is a very hand- some village, and has considerable trade in shipping cotton and supplying the planters in the interior. Population about 350. Just back of the town is the lake, from which it derives its name, on the banks of which there are a number of fine cotton plantations. On the opposite side of the river, is a very large, fine plantation, with a number of houses and negro quarters, giving it the appearance of a town. Old Town.. J ni. 40 • THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Tallalala, capital of Issaquena co., Miss., 5 miles below, Is a small place. Population about 250. Tompkinsville, 10 miles below, in Carroll parish, La., is a neat little place, extending for some distance along the river, and containing the residencea of a number of wealthy planters. Brunswick Landing, 14 miles below, in Issaquena co., Miss. Campbellsville, 10 miles below, in Carroll parish. La. Millikinsville, La., 2 miles below, is a large settlement of planters, with many fine residences. Young's Point, 6 miles below, ia Madison parish, La. Tazoo River enters the Mississippi, from the State of that name, nearly opposite Young's Point. (See page 81.) "Walnut Hills, 10 miles below the mouth of Yazoo river, in Warren co., Miss., extend along the river for about 2 miles. They rise to the height of near 600 feet, and display the finest scenery on the lower Mississippi. They are under a state of high cultivation, which renders them very attractive in their appearance. Vicksburgh, 2 miles below, capital of Warren co., Miss., is built on a hill, the highest point of which is nearly 300 feet above the river. It was settled in 1824 by Neivitt Vick, Esq., and became a city in 1836. This City is the depot of all the Yazoo country. The soil is exceedingly fertile, producing abundant crops of grain, cotton and tobacco. About 100,000 bales of cotton are annually ship- ped from Vicksburgh to New Orleans. It contains a court-house, 5 or 6 churches, 3 academies, a theater, and several public and private schools, and 3 printing offices. Population about 4000. The city presents a fine view from the river ; the location being high, and the houses built in terraces on the side of the hill, give the whole a beautiful appear- ance. A railroad extends to Jackson, the capital of the State, 46 miles in the in- terior. The Mississippi river is some 300 feet deep at this point. Warrentown, 10 miles below, in Warren co.. Miss., is a pleasant town. Population about 300. Palmyra Settlement, 15 miles below in same county. New Carthage, Madison parish. La., nearly opposite, ia a small village. Point Pleasant, 10 miles below in Tensas parish. La. Big Black River, rises in Choctaw co.. Miss., and after a course of about 200 miles, enters the Mississippi 14 miles below Point Pleasant. It flows, mostly through a level and fertile region, chiefly occupied by cotton plantations. It is navigable for some 60 miles. The point at which this river joins the Mississippi is called Grand Gulf, and the town of Grand Gulf, is situated 2 miles below, in Claiborne co., Miss. It is very pleasantly situated, on an elevated bank, and has considerable trade in cotton, and also in supplies for the neighboring plantations. It contains 2 or 3 churches, a town hall, a hospital, a theater, a cotton press, a steam saw and grist mill, and a' population of about 1000. Bayou Pierre empties into the Mississippi 10 miles below. Keel-boats can ascend it as far as Port Gibson, which is a flourishing town, 28 miles from its mouth. It is the county seat of Claiborne co.. Miss., and contains a population of about 1200. Bruinsburgh, Claiborne co.. Miss., is a small place at the mouth of Bayou Pierre. St Joseph, capital of Tensas parish. La., 6 miles below, is a small village. It contains a court-house and a number of stores. Population 200. 42 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Rodney, Jefferson co., Miss., 4 miles below, is a pleasant town, containing a printing office, a number of stores and warehouses. Population about 500. Natchez, 41 miles below, capital of Adams co.. Miss., is built mostly on a high bluff, near 200 feet above the river, and is the largest town in the State. It was founded by D'Iberville in 1700. That portion of the city on the mar- gin of the river is termed '' Natchez, under the Hill." Most of the heavy mercantile business is done in this part of the town. The upper town stands on the bluff. From this point a fine view of the surrounding country can be ob- tained. As far as the eye can reach, along the margin of the river, it beholds rich and well-cultivated plantations ; while, beyond this, mingling with the blue mists that float along the edge of the horizon, nothing can be seen but a bound- less waste of deep and impenetrable swamps. The streets are generally regular and broad. In 1840, a severe tornado swept over this city and destroyed a large amount of property. This city is one of the principal cotton ports on the Missis- sippi J the streets are often rendered impassible by the piles of cotton bales wait- ing to be shipped. The city contains a large number of stores, 5 or 6 churches, 4 banks, a hospital, an orphan asylum, several seminaries and public schools, a Masonic hall, a number of steam mills, and 4 or 5 printing offices. Natchez carries on an extensive inland and foreign trade: many large vessels come up to the town, receive their freight, and sail to foreign ports. There are several large founderies here, which are extensively engaged in making engines, cotton presses, and sugar mills. Population, about 7000. D'Iberville, whose name occupies a large space in the early history of our coun- try, and especially in those events which transpired on the lower Mississippi, was no ordinary man. No where did he display himself to more advantage, than in the discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi, the last great act in his event- ful life. He set sail for the Mississippi on the 17th of October, 1698, with 2 frigates, 2 small vessels, and about 200 settlers. On the 2d of March they suc- ceeded in entering this mighty river in two small barges ; they probably pro- ceeded as far as the mouth of Red river, and then returned, by way of the bayou which bears his name, and Lakes Pontchartrain and Maurepas, to St. Louis bay. After building a fort, and leaving his two brothers in command, he sailed for France. In December, 1699, D'Iberville returned from Europe, with new plans of col- onization. In company with his brother, he ascended this great river for the pur- pose of selecting a site for a town. When he arrived in the country of the Natchez, the Great Sun, their principal chief, came out to welcome them. A high bluff, on which Natchez now stands, was selected, and called Rosalie, in honor of the Countess Pontchartrain. The fort, however, was not built till 1716, 16 years after the selection of the site. Up to this time, no permanent settle- ment had been made at Natchez. The few traders and hunters who had taken up their abode among the Indians, did not attempt to form a settlement. But after the completion of the fort, the tide of emigration poured in so rapidly, that it soon became the most important place in Louisiana. Vidalia, Concordia parish, La., is a small place, opposite Natchez. It is the county seat, and contains a court-house and printing office. Ellis' Cliffs is a high ridge on the east side of the Mississippi, 18 miles below. They extend for several miles along the river, and tend to relieve the eye of the low and monotonous scenery of the lower Mississippi. Union Point, Concordia parish, La., 3 miles below, is a small town. Homocliitto River rises in the State of Mississippi, and flows west into the Mississippi river, 23 miles below. It is a small stream, and not navigable. Port Adams, 10 miles below, in Wilkinson co., Miss,, is a small village, MISSISSIPPI KO. 13. o o O » % 44 TEE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. V and is considered the port of Woodville, a thriving town, a short distance in the interior. Red River, upper mouth, enters the Mississippi 11 miles below Port Adams. (See page 81.) Red River Island and Cut-off. — At the mouth of Red river, the main channel of the Mississippi makes quite a long bend, leaving a very narrow strip of land between. Captain Shrove, of the United States' Engineers, cut a channel across this bend, which, upon admitting the waters, soon became sufficiently wide and deep to allow the largest boats to pass with ease. From this point, the waters of the Mississippi no longer flow in one regular channel; but, separating into a number of branches or bayous, they wend their way through lakes and swamps to the Gulf, in lines nearly parallel with the parent stream, thus dividing the southern part of the State into a number of islands. The largest of these bayous is Atcuafalaya, which leaves the river 3 miles below Red river, and pursues a southern course till it falls into Atchafalaya bay on the Gulf coast. At Plaquemine, 128 miles below, there is another bayou, which also connects with the Gulf. At Donaldsonville, 81 miles above New Orleans, the justly celebrated Bayou La Fourche commences. It can be com- pared to nothing but a beautiful ship canal. The plantations along this bayou are so numerous that they resemble one continuous town stretching from one extremity to the other. On the east, the principal outlet is the Iberville, which communicates with the Gulf, through Lakes Maurepas, Pontchar train, and Borgne. The land included between these bayous is called the delta of the Mississippi. This land is frequently inundated, and amounts to several thousand square miles. To prevent these overflows as much as possible, embankments have been thrown up along the river, called the Icvcc. On the east side, the levee com- mences about 60 miles above New Orleans, and extends for near 130 ; on the west side it begins at Point Coupee, 172 miles above New Orleans. From this point down to New Orleans, the river is lined with beautiful plantations, upon which are many fine and costly residences. The whole has the appearance of a town, extending along the margin of the river. Red River Landing, Point Coupee parish, La., 6 miles below, is a small place, where those going up Red river usually stop. Raccourci Bend and Cut-off, 4 miles below. The cut-off" here, was made in 1848, by order of the State. The distance by the main channel is about 25 miles — by the cut-off" it is only about half a mile. The width of the channel is 400 yards, and sufficiently deep to admit the largest boats. Tunica Bend is a large bend G miles below. Island number 122 is in the the lower part of this bend. Bayou Sara, West Feliciana parish, La., 24 miles below, is a flourishing town, and a shipping point of large quantities of cotton. The country through which the bayou, of same name, passes, is rich, thickly settled, and under a high state of cultivation. St. Francisville, capital of West Feliciana parish. La., just below bayou Sara, is a pleasant place, being built mostly on a hill, about 1 mile from the river. It is connected with Woodville, a distance of 26 miles, by a Railroad. The portion of the town on the hill is well built, and contains several fine houses. Along the margin of the river, there are a number of extensive warehouses, from which a large amount of cotton is annually shipped. Population 500. Point Coupee, capital of Point Coupee parish, La., is opposite St. Fran- cisville. It is a settlement of wealthy planters, mostly French, and extends several miles along the river. At this place, the Grand Levee or embankment commences. The tendency of the lower Mississippi to seek new channels to i Issaquena Cy., MiaB. MISSISSIPPI. No. 14. Toung's Point. %' y 46 TEE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. the Gulf, Las been apparent for a long time. The cut-offs that have been made above, though they have shortened the distance several miles, have, by giving the water a more direct course, greatly increased its rapidity, volume, and pressure against its banks. This is no doubt the cause of the crevasse, which has often been the means of destroying entire plantations, and burying villages in water. The land on the river from this point to the Gulf, is, with few exceptions, below the surface of the water, even at its ordinary stage. Waterloo, Point Coupee parish, La., 5 miles below, at the outlet of False river. It is a handsome settlement, surrounded by rich and beautiful plantations. Population about 300. Thompson's Creek, enters the Mississippi from the east a short distance above Port Hudson. Jackson, East Feliciana parish, La., is situated on the east side of Thompson's creek, about 12 miles from St. Francisville. It is the seat of Louisiana College, founded in 1825, which has an able faculty, and about 2000 volumes in its libraries. Port Hudson, 6 miles below Waterloo, in East Feliciana parish. La., on White Cliffs, is a place of considerable business, large amounts of cotton and sugar are annually shipped from here. It is at the terminus of the Clinton and Port Hudson Iluilroad. Population about 300. Thomas' Point, is situated in an acute bend of the river, 13 miles below. Baton Eouge, 12 miles below, is the capital of Louisiana, and seat of jus- tice of Baton llouge parish. It is pleasantly situated on the last bluff that is seen, in descending the river. The site is 30 or 40 feet above the highest over- flow of the river. The bluff rises by a gentle and gradual swell, and the town, as seen from the river, in the months when the greatest verdure prevails, rising so regularly and beautifully from the banks, with its singularly shaped French and Spanish houses, and its green squares, looks like a finely painted landscape. It is one of the most beautiful and pleasantly situated places on the lower Mississippi. From Baton Rouge to New Orleans, the '' coast," as it is called, is lined with as fine plantations as there are in the South. Every spot, susceptible of cultiva- tion, is transformed into a beautiful garden, containing specimens of all those choice fruits and flowers which flourish only in tropical climes. From the espla- nade, the prospect is delightful, commanding a great extent of the coast, with its handsome houses and rich cultivation, and an extensive view of the back coun- try at the east. Baton Rouge contains a fine State-house, a court-house, penitentiary. Baton llouge College, 4 or 5 churches, an extensive U. S. arsenal and barracks, 2 or 3 printing ofiices, 2 academies and a number of schools. Population about 5000. The penitentiary is a fine brick building, 320 feet long, three stories high, and contains 240 cells for convicts. Baton Rouge College has 4 professors, and a library of 10,000 volumes. West Baton Ronge, is a small place on the opposite side of the river. Manchac, 15 miles below, in East Baton Rouge parish. La,, is a small place at the mouth of Bayou Manchac. Manchac Bayou leaves the Mississippi at this point. About 20 miles from the river it is couucctcd with the Amite river, and by means of Lakes Maurepas, 'Pontchartrain and Borgnc, opens a communication with the Gulf. Bayou Plaquemine, 8 miles below, affords the best communication to the rich settlements of Altukapas and Opolousus. It is navigable for small ves- sels for some miles in the interior, and its banks are lined with splendid sugar and cotton plantations. Plaquemine, just below, is a pleasant town. Considerable trade with the surrounding plantations is carried on here. It contains a population of about 60O. j^arrenton MISSISSIPPI No. 15. isi 48 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Iberville, 10 miles below, capital of Iberville parisb. Bayou Goule, in same parisb, 10 miles below, is a email place. Bayou La Fourche, 14 miles below, leaves the Mississippi at Donaldson- ville, and flows in a direct lino to the Gulf. It is very thickly settled on both sides, by some of the richest planters in the State. It is navigable during most of the year for a distance of 60 miles. Donaldson ville, capital of Ascension parish, La., is just below Bayou La Fourche. It was formerly the capital of the State. It is pleasantly situated, and is a place of considerable trade and wealth. Population about 1000. Jefferson College, founded in 1831, is a thriving institution, 16 miles below, in St. James parish. Bonnet Carre, 24 miles below, is the capital of St. John the Baptist parish, La. Red Church, 16 miles below, in St. John the Baptist parish, La. Carrollton, 19 miles below, in Jefferson parish, La., is a flourishing town, 7 miles above New Orleans, with which it is connected by a Railroad that runs to the center of the city. The Carrollton Gardens are much admired by all who visit them. They are public, and laid out with great taste. Here, among beautiful flowers, thick shrubbery, and finely laid out walks and arbors, and umbrageous branches of green trees filled with innumerable bright-plumaged and melodious singing birds of the South, one may spend a day, almost oblivious of the near vicinity of that great city, with its thousands of inhabitants, gathered from all countries under the sun. The population of Carrollton is about 1000. Lafayette City, 5 miles below, is but a continuation of New Orleans. The Railroad leading from New Orleans to Carrollton, passes through it. A steam ferry is constantly running from this to the opposite shore, and another to New Orleans. Most of the flat-boats, bound for New Orleans, land at Lafayette. Population about 5000. New Orleans, 2 milesbelow, in Orleans parish. La., is situated on the Missis- sippi river, near the south- ern extremity of the Mis- sissippi valley, in 29** 57' north latitude and 90° 7' west longitude. It is the great commercial cap- ital of the South, and is, by the river, about 100 miles from the Gulf. New KKw ORWAKS FKOJi IDE MISSISSIPPI. Orlcaus Is thc scat of jus- tice for Orleans parish. This city is built on a strip of low marshy land lying be- tween Lake Pontchartrain and the Mississippi river, and on the convex shore of a large bend, which resembles a crescent, or new moon, for which reason it is often called the Crescent City. The ground gradually falls back toward the lake, and in no part of the city is it suflaciently elevated to throw the waste water into the river. In time of heavy rains many of the streets are flooded with water. On the opposite side of the river is the town of Algiers. This place is exten- sively engaged in ship building; it contains several large ship yards, which em- ploy a great number of hands. New Orleans has, probably, twice as much boat navigation above it, as any other city on the globe. By means of the basin, the canal, and the Bayou St. John, it communicates with Lake Ponchartrain, with the Florida shore, with Mobile, Pensacola, and the whole Gulf shore. It also communicates, by means of the bayous Plaquemine and La Fourche, with the Attakapas country, and has MISSISSIPPI. No. 16. Ellis Cliffe. 50 TEE MISSISSIPPI RIVER: many other communications, by means of the numerous bayous and lakes, with the lower parts of Louisiana. Its wharves may be seen, at all seasons of the year, lined with all kinds of craft, rough flat-boats, which have traveled from the Alleghanies, with lumber, or from further west, with provisions, &c.; steamers, from the hundred navigable rivers, which flow into the Mississippi ; ships and other sea vessels from all quarters of the globe, here meet, to land the productions of all climes, and bring together the inhabitants of all countries, colors, and languages. The greater part of the business is transacted between October and June. During the summer, the city is generally unhealthy, and is visited by that scourge, the Yellow Fever. During the winter and spring, the climate is generally reputed healthy, and thousands flock here from all quarters of the world — some for health, othei's for pleasure, and still more in connection with the immense business of all kinds which is here transacted. The Carondelet, or old canal, runs in a line with Orleans street, the center street of the city, to Bayou St. John. This canal is about 2 miles long, and from 25 to 30 feet in width, and from 4 to 7 feet in depth. The basin is in tlie center of the city, near the Catho- lic Cemetery. It is about 5 miles from the canal, down the bayou, to its junction with Lake Pontchartrain, where there is a large dam about ^ of a mile in extent; at the extremity, there is a light house. There is another canal running through the city to the lake, which does a large amount of business. The New Orleans and La Fourche Canal extends through Algiers to Bayou La Fourche, a distance of 85 miles. This is a very important work, as it brings in communication with New Orleans, some of the richest agricultural portions of the State. There are 4 railroads in this city : the Orleans and Carrollton llailroad, which runs to Car- rollton, a distance of 7 miles ; the New Orleans Street Kailroad, which starts near the river, in the lower part of the city, and extends to Lake Pontchartrain, a dis- tance of 6 miles. The third is the Mexican Gulf Railway, which starts oiF at right angles from the Pontchartrain road, at the corner of the Elysian Fields and Good Children streets, and runs eastward to Proctorsville, on Lake Borgne, a distance of 27 miles. The 4th is to Jackson, Miss. The Shell Eoad is the pride of New Orleans. It extends to the lake. This road is made of small, white sea-shells, which soon become broken and cemented together. The cemeteries of ISiiW Orleans attract much notice. There are several, which are laid out in a handsome manner, the most celebrated are the " French Cemetery," in the city, and '' Cypress Grove Cemetery," about 3 miles out on the Shell lioad, leading to Lake Ponchartrain. The taste and elegance displayed in many of the vaults, and the constant attention manifested, to show respect for the memory of de- parted friends, are truly gratifying to the finer feelings of our nature. On ac- count of the marshy state of the soil, it is impossible to dig graves, as a foot beloiv the surface, they would be filled with water. To obviate this, the tombs are built entirely above ground, and well cemented, with apertures just large enough for a single colfiu, and rising up, in many instances, to the height of 3 or 4 tiers. The walks between the vaults are covered with beautiful white shells, from the sea beach ; and along the edges may be found almost every variety of shrubbery and flowers, which grow so luxuriantly in the south. These cemete- ries are free to all visitors. Public Buildings. — The St. Charles' Hotel ia one of the finest buildings in the city. It was erected at a cost of nearly §600,000. The Verandah, at the corner of St. Charles and Common streets, is another fine building. The Munici- pal Hall is a beautiful marble edifice. The St. Louis Hotel is a beautiful and costly structure. The Custom House is one of the largest buildings of the kind in the Union; it is built of New England granite. The United States Branch Mint is a large edifice of the Ionic order, 2^2 |et!t long and IGS feet deep. The Catholic Cathedral is also a large and splendid building. The Odd Fellows' Hall is u fine and extensive building, also the Merchants' Exchange. Many of the Point Coupee Cy., La Bed River LRndlng. •• 52 TEE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. churches are costly and splendid edifices, of which the city contains between 40 and 50 of the various denominations, and several Jewish synagogues. The markets also deserve attention. They are conducted on a dilfercnt jilun from those of most of our Western cities. There are stands erected along the sides of the market-house for the sale of coffee, chocolate, cakes, pies, &c. These are the boarding places of hundreds of people who wander about without any fixed place of residence. The city contains several public squares, which are ornamented with fine trees and shrubbery. There are 4 or 5 theaters here, — the St. Charles, the (Jrleaus, the American, and others. The University of Louisiana was founded in 1835, and has an elegant building at the corner of Common and Philippe streets. There are departments of medicine, law, political economy, and com- merce, with able professors in each. New Orleans has a large number of excel- lent public schools, in which about 16,000 children annually receive instruction. The benevolent institutions in New Orleans are numerous and extensive; among them may be mentioned the Charity Hospital, the U. S. Naval Hospital, Stone's Hospital, the Franklin Infirmary. The city contains about 25 printing otfices, some of them on an extensive scale, issuing daily and weekly papers with a large circulation, several of them in the French language. The Commerce of New Orleans is very large, extending to nearly all quarters of the globe. The article of greatest value is cotton, but immense quantities of other produce are annually shipped — flour, sugar, pork, tobacco, hemp, and numerous other articles from all the north-western and south-western States. There are 9 or 10 well managed banks here, with a heavy capital. The population in 1850 was 126,000, in 1853, 145,000. It is now estimated, during the business season, at about 170,000, including Lafayette. In 1718 (Louisiana then being under the dominion of the French), colonists were sent from Europe, who laid out New Orleans with great ceremony. This colony was under the direction of John Law, the noted financier. The Missis- sippi company, under Law, received their charter in 1717, and it granted them the exclusive right of trading in the Mississippi country, for 25 years, with the monopoly of the Canada beaver trade. In 1718, the monopoly *f trading in tobacco was also granted them. In 1719, the exclusive right of trading in Asia and the East Indies, and, soon after, the farming of the public revenue, together with the extension of all these rights to the year 1770 — and, also, the exclusive right of coining for 9 years. They also had the grant, formerly given to Crozat, but resigned by him, of an exclusive monopoly of Louisiana, for 15 years, and the absolute ownership of whatever mines might be opened, for this was, in fact, the great object of all the explorers of the Mississippi country. They relied, not so much on the fertility of the soil, as the immense wealth that would be realized from the rich mines of precious metals, which they hoped to find. In 1717, about 2000 subjects of the Western Duchy, embarked from Europe, under the direction of the company. In 1720, the company failed, and the Germans, thus deserted, dispersed into diflerent portions of the country. Large sums were advanced by the crown to uphold the company, and much expended for military protection against the Indians. But all failed to keep it up. In 1731, the government obtained a judgment against them, of twenty millions of francs, to cancel which, the entire property and privileges were re-conveyed. In 1721, the Council Gen- eral was removed from Eiloxi to New Orleans In 1759, Great Britain had over-run most of the province of New France, and obtained possession of Quebec, Ticouderoga, Crown Point and Niagara. During this war, Spain had formed a family compact with France, and taken sides against England. In 1762, hostilities ceased between the three powers, and peace was restored by the ratification of the treaty of Paris, dated February 10, 1763. By this treaty, England obtained possession of Canada and all the posts along the W. Baton Rouge Cy., La. 64 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER St. Lawrence. France also cctled to licr all that portion of Louisiana, extending from the source of the Mississippi, on the east side, to the mouth of the Bayou Ihcrville; thence along the bayou, to Lake Maurepas; thence, along the center of the lakes, to the Gulf of Mexico, including the port and river of Mobile. The navigation of the Mississippi was to remain forever free to both powers. .At the same time, the French King formed a secret treaty with Spain, by which he agreed to deliver to the Spanish government the remainder of Louisiana, including the Island of New Orleans. Two or three years elapsed before Spain took posses- . sion of this valuable territory. The French population were very much dissatisfied at the change; and, in order to prevent an outbreak, it was deemed necessary to keep a large military force constantly at New Orleans. The laws of Spain were very despotic and unpupular. Morales, the intendant, knowing that Spain could not long maintain her position on the Mississippi, determined to exercise his vindictive feel- ings against the Americans, by denying them the right to deposit goods and produce in New Orleans. This act so completely aroused the people of the western States, that it was with great difficulty that the general government was able to restrain them from the conquest of the country. This suspension of trade brought the people of New Orleans on the verge of famine. Accordingly, to modify the evil, without fully removing the cause. Morales issued an order, that Western people might have the privilege of sending flour into the territory, provided they paid a dut}^ oi six per cent, ad valorum, and shipped it in Spanish vessels. But the Americans respccfully declined to avail themselves of the privileges of this order. The King, however, so far revoked the acts of Morales, as to again re- store, in 1795, for three years, the free navigation of the river, and the right to deposit at New Orleans, which continued till 1802. After the overthrow of the Bourbon dynasty, the King of Spain formed a secret treaty with the First Consul, Oct. 1, 1800, by which he agreed to deliver within six months, the province of Louisiana to the French authorities. In consideration of this act of Spanish generosity, the French established on the throne of Tuscany, the Prince of Parma, son-in-law of the King of Spain. Napoleon now began to make extensive preparations to extend his authority over this rich and valuable territory. A large fleet and an army of 25,000 men were soon ready to sail for the Mississippi. After spending a year in the various ports of Holland, continu- ally watched by the English, Napoleon determined to abandon the enterprise, and transfer, if possible, the territory to the United States. Near the close of the year 1802, he directed his minister, M. Talleyrand, to open negotiations with Mr. Livingston, United States Minister at Paris. While this correspondence was going on, Mr. Jeftersou, then President, deeming the possession of New Orleans and Florida of vast importance to the whole Union, sent over Mr. Monroe, with instructions to make some arraugement, if possible, for its purchase. When Mr. Monroe arrived in Paris, he was somewhat surprised to find Napoleon so willijig to part with Louisiana. The only thing then for the American Commissioners to arrange, was to fix the price to be paid. Napoleon wanted 125,000,000 francs; but the commissioners, thinking it by far to high, ofi'ered.only 50,000,000. After some time spent in consideration, they agreed upon 80,000,000, deducting 20,000,000 for spoliation upon our commerce. Their course was fully approved by the President and his cabinet, and confirmed by the Senate of the United States. On the 20th of December, 1803, the province of Louisiana was oflicially delivered over to the constituted authorities of the United States. "^ The Spanish government were very much displeased at this transfer of Louisiana, but finally, in 1804, became reconciled. Spain, however, still retained possession of Florida till 1820, when it was purchased by the United States. Immediately after the United States obtained possession of Louisiana, it was formed into a territorial government. In 1811, the people were authorized by Congress to »See American State Papers. Also, Martin's Louisiana. 56 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. form a State constitution; and in 1812, Louisiana was admitted into the Union, with full privileges, as a sister State of this Great Western llepublic. In 1812, war was declared between England and the United States, and the British Min- istry, resolved, if possible, to possess themselves of New Orleans, and thereby control the entire navigation of the Mississippi. New Orleans was in imminent danger; the city was without defenses, and the Spaniards at Mobile and Pensa- cola, were ready to receive a British army with open arms. This state of things, was repeatedly urged upon the consideration of the President and his Cabinet, but nothing was done, till the arrival of General Jackson, in the autumn of 1814. On the 12th of December, 1814, the British fleet made its appearance off Cat Island, near the entrance of Lake Borgne. Commodore Patterson dispatched a flotilla of 5 gun-boats, to observe the movements of the enemy, and check, if pos- sible, his advance. On the 14th, the boats were attacked by a superior force of 43 barges, and 1200 men ; and, after a gallant struggle of one hour, they were overpowered and compelled to surrender. In this engagement, the Americans lost but 6 killed and o5 wounded, while the British loss could not have been less than 300 in killed and wounded. General Jackson, on reviewing the militia and defenses of the city, found it necessary to proclaim martial law, which no doubt saved the city. This measure was very much opposed at the time. Judge Hall took upon himself the respon- sibility to impose upon the General, after the battle, a fine of $1000, in consequence of the suspension of the habeas corpm act. The Judge under- took to interfere with the military arrests, and Jackson ordered him beyond the limits of the camp. This fine, which the General promptly paid from his own resources, was refunded by Congress with interest, a short time before his death. On the 22d, a division of the British army, under General Keane, succeeded in passing from Lake Borgne into Bayou Bienvenu. The British, supposing them- selves perfectly secure, concluded to encamp near the banks of the river. The American general determined to attack them in their new position. He ac- cordingly collected his whole force, which was less than 2000, and marched to attack the English, who were not less than 3000 strong. The schooner Caro- line, and the Louisiana, were sent down the river, with orders to commence the attack when the proper signal should be given. The action commenced at half- past seven in the evening, by a heavy discharge of grape and canister, which was the first warning the enemy had of the approach of the American army. Jackson commanded here in person ; and so complete was the surprise of the enemy, that hundreds were cut down, without even an opportunity of offer- ing any resistance. The British lost nearly 400, in killed, wounded, and prisoners. General Jackson fell back within 5 or 6 miles of the city ; where he com- menced fortifying himself on a narrow strip of land, lying between a low swamp and the river. The General determined to build a breastwork of cotton-bales and earth, extending from the swamp to the river, a distance of nearly a mile. He accordingly ordered all the drays and wagons in the city, to haul the cotton from the warehouses ; which orders they were compelled to obey, at the peril of their lives. The front of this cotton breastwork was protected by a deep ditch, filled with water. On the 28th, a skirmish occurred a short distance from the Ameri- can lines, which lasted several hours; in this the English lost about 250, and the Americans only 7.* The British army under Packingham, encamped near the American lines, waiting several days for reinforcements. The Americans numbered 6000, and the British 15,000. At length the anxious night of the 7th had passed away, and the dawn of the glorious 8th, had just shed its mellow light on the extended *See Breckenridge' History of the War. 58 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. MAP OF THE VICINITY OF NEW ORLEANS. lines of the two reposing armies. Packingham, after sending 800 of his men, iMOBiLE^ under Colonel Thorton, " on the opposite side of the river, arranged the 'M remainder of his army ^ into two divisions, of 60 "pdeep; the right under General Gibbs, and the left under Gen. Keane. The English moved slowly to the attack ; but when within a short distance, the batteries along the American lines opened upon them such a destructive fire, that their ranks were broken almost as fast as they were closed up. But when they cume within reach of the muskets, the whole American line opened upon them such a discharge of musketry, that they soon retired in confusion from the field. Packingham was killed in front of his troops, endeavoring to encourage them by his presence. The officers succeeded in bringing the troops to a second attack, but this was even more disastrous than the first. They soon gave way, leaving more than 2,000 lying on the field, killed and wounded. The American loss was only 7 killed and 6 wounded. The battle of New Orleans, one of the most important in the history of our country, was the closing scene of the war of 1812. Battle Ground, 6 miles below New Orleans. Ducro's Landing, is 6 miles below. The Mexican Gulf Railway here diverges and crosses to Lake Borgne Fort St. Leon is on the Mississippi, 5 miles below. English Turn, is a bend in the river, opposite Fort St. Leon. It is the point 'where the English vessels, sent to explore and take possession of the Mississippi, met the French, who informed them that they were in the dominions of his majesty, the King of France, aud unless they retreated, the large force, which they alleged was but a short distance up the river, would be brought against them. The English reluctantly turned, and sailed down the river. Forts St. Philip and Jackson, are on opposite sides of the Mississippi, 55 miles below English Turn. The Mouths of the Mississippi, 30 miles below. We have now arrived at the point whore this miglity river, separating into a number of branches, resembling a large hand with extended fingers, discharges its waters into the Gulf. The sedinicnt which is annually deposited in the Gulf of Mexico, is about yj^g of the quantity of water by weight. The North-east Pass, latitude ^29° 7' N., and longitude 89° 10' W., is the prin- cipal pass. The word lialize, means a level. At the mouth of the pass, there is a small settlement of pilots, known as the Balize settlement. The other passes, are the Outlet Pass, the South-east, the South, the South-west, and the West. Hattlegroiind 60 ALABAMA RIVER. ROUTES ON THE GULF OF MEXICO. THE ALABAMA KIVER Is formed by the junction of the Tulupoosa and Coosa rivers, about 10 miles above Moataoraery, Ala. The Talapoosa tjikcs its rise in Paulding co., Ga., about '250 miles from its mouth. It is navigable about 40 miles, for small steamers. The Coosa rises in Georgia, also; length some 350 miles, and navi- gable for small boats, about 175 miles from its junction with the Talapoosa. The Alabama is a very crooked stream, but is navigable at all seasons for the larcest class of boats, except in times of great drought. Its whole length is near 34U miles. The country through which it runs is exceedingly rich, occupied by extensive cotton plantations, and large tracts of valuable timber. It enters Mobile bay, at the city of Mobile, in hit. 30° 41'. Montgomery, capital of the State of x\labama, and county seat of Mont- gomery CO., is a thriving city, beautifully situated iu a healthy and fertile region. It has an extensive trade, and fine facilities for reaching important points in the surrounding country. The terminus of the Montgomery and West Point Railroad is here. About 80,000 bales of cotton are annually shipped from Montgomery. Population about 7500. Washington , 13 miles below, in Autauga co., is a small village. Lowndesport, 10 miles below, in same co. Vernon In same co., 8 miles below. Miller's Ferry, 9 miles below. Benton, Lowndes co., 15 miles below, is a thriving town and has an active ti'ade. Population about 500. Selma, 26 miles below, in Dallas co., is a flourishing town, situated in a populous and fertile region, and has a large business. It contains 3 or 4 churches and a printing office. Population about 1600. The terminus of the Alabama and Tennessee Ptailroad is here. Cahawba, 16 miles below, is the county seat of Dallas co., just below the mouth of Cahawba river, and a place of considerable trade. It contains the usual county buildings, several churches, 2 printing offices, and a U. S. land office. The Cahawba river is navigable for small steamers about 100 miles. It passes through the Alabama coal field. Elm Bluff, 5 miles below. Portland, 19 miles below, in Dallas co. Bridgeport, 16 miles below. Canton, AVilcox co., 5 miles below. Prairie Bluff, 10 miles below, in same co. Upper Peachtree Landing, 11 miles below. Black Bluff Landing, 13 miles below. Lower Peachtree Landing, 5 miles below. Bell's Landing, Monroe co., 16 miles below, is a small village. Claiborne, 22 miles below, is the capital of Monroe co. Gosport, Clarke co., 7 miles below, is a small place. Gainestown, 9 miles below, in same co., is a landing place. French's Landing, 8 miles below. James' Landing, 6 miles below. Tombigbee River, enters the Alabama 40 miles below. This river takes its rise in the north-eastern part of Mississippi, and is over 400 miles in length. It is navigable for nearly 300 miles from its mouth. It flows, mostly, through a Johnsons o|S Mississirpi NO. 22. Fori ?t. rhiUip 62 SA BINE—NE CHE S—TR INI TY RI VERS. level, fertile country, much of wliicli is occupied by cotton plautations. There are niauy iinportaut towns on the Tonibigbee iiiver, a few of which are : Fulton, Aberdeen, and Columbus, jMiss., and Pichensville, Gainesville, and Dcmopolis, Alabaina. Fort St. Philip, 22 miles below the mouth of Tombigbee river. Mobile, capital of Mobile co., Ala., 22 miles below, at the mouth of the river, near its entrance into the bay of same name, 30 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, and 167 miles from New Orleans. Lat. 30° 41' north. It is the com- mercial capital of the State, and next to New Orleans, the greatest cotton market in the Uniuu — nearly 000,000 bales have been exported in a single year. The situation is considered very healthy, being built on a plain that rises near 15 feet above tide water. The breezes from the sea render the atmosphere pure, which, together with the climate, make it the resort of a great number of invalids, from various parts of the world. The city is supplied with water brought from a neighboring hill, and distributed through the towu in iron pipes. Mobile contains a naval hospital, city hospital, 3 or 4 banks, a theater. Burton Academy, several churches and 6 printing offices. About 2 miles from Mobile, is Spring Hill College, incorporated in 1830. The Bay of Mobile, is the outlet of one of the most prolific cotton-growino' regions in the South. Mobile is the terminus of the Ohio and Mobile Railroad. Population of the city in 1850, 20,515 — estimated now at about 25,000. Pensacola, capital of Escambia co., Florida, is situated on Pensacola bay, 10 miles from the sea, and 64 miles east from Mobile. The town is built on a sandy plain, about 40 feet above the waters of the bay. It is regularly laid out, and contains a court-house, custom-house, and 2 public squares. Population about 2500. 8 miles below the city, there is a United States Navy Tard, which covers 80 acres of ground. THE SABINE RIVER Takes its rise in Hunt co., Texas, and runs in a south-easterly direction, to the eastern boundary of the State, from which point it runs in a southerly course, being the boundary between Louisiana and Texas, and empties (through Sabine lake) into the Gulf of Mexico. Its whole length is about 500 miles. It is shallow at its mouth, but is navigable, during high water, for small boats, for some distance. The principal towns on the Sabine river are Logansjiort, in De Soto parish. La IlamiltoR, below, in Shelby co., Texas. Sahinetoicn, Sabine co., Texas, (a shipping point for cotton, etc.) Belgrade, Newton co., Texas. Salem, in same CO. 3Iadison, Jeifersou co., Texas, (near the head of Sabine lake.) THE NECHES RIVER Rises in Van Zandt co., Texas, and enters Sabine lake near its upper extremity It is navigable, for small steamers, about 100 miles, in high water. Sumpteris on the Neches river, in Trinity co., Texas. Woodville, below, is the capital of Tyler co., Texas. Beaumont, county seat of Jefferson co., Texas, and abtaU 28 miles above the mouth of the Neclies river. Inmiense numbers of cattle and luirses range over the prairies in this part of Texas. Sabine City, is situated on the west side of the outlet of Sabine lake_ about 6 miles from the ( julf of 3Iexicn, in Jetl'ersou CO., Texas. THE TRINITY RIVER Rises in Cnok co., Texas, in two branches — -the Went Fork and Elm Fork — which unite in Dallas ci. Its course is south-easterly, and it empties into Galveston bay, near its upper end. The Trinity is nearly 600 miles in length, and is navigable, during high water, some 350 miles. It flows through a very MISSISSIPPI No. 23 I 64 SAK JACINTO— BRAZOS— COLORADO RIVERS. fertile region of country, producing cotton, corn, sugar, and rice, in great abun- dance. A great variety of timber is found along its course. The principal towns on the Trinity are BirdsviUe, on the West fork, in Tarrant co. Dallas, in Dallas co., a short distance below the mouth of Elm fork. Buffalo, Henderson co. Fine Bluff'vLXid Alabama, Leon co. Cincinnati, Walker CO. JSicartwout, Polk co. Smithjield, in same co. Liberty, capital of county of same name. Anahuac, in Liberty co., is on the east side of Galveston bay, opposite the mouth of Trinity river. THE SAN JACINTO RIVER Is a small stream which rises in Walker co., Texas, and empties into Gal- veston bay, about 25 miles north-east of Houston. It is navigable for 10 or 12 miles. Houston, capital of Harris co., is situated on Buffiilo bayou, about 4-i miles from Galveston bay, at the head of steamboat navigation. Large quantities of cotton, corn, and sugar are sliippcd from this point. Houston, contains 4 or 5 printing offices, an iron foundry, machine shop, &C. Population about 6000. San Jacinto, on Buffalo bayou, Harris co., Texas, near Galveston bay, is celebrated on account of an important battle fought here in 1836, which resulted in the capture of Santa Anna and the independence of Texas. Li/nchburg, Harris CO., on Buffalo bayou, opposite San Jacinto. Galveston, county seat of Galveston co., Texas, is situated on the eastern end of Galveston Island, at the entrance to the bay, in lat. 29° 17' north, and nearly 450 miles from New Orleans. It is the most important city of the State, and has a good harbor, with sufficient depth of water to float all ordinary vessels. Galveston has an extensive and active trade. It has 7 or 8 churches, 4 printing offices, several large hotels and a population of about 7500. THE BRAZOS RIVER Rises in the western part of Texas, and runs first easterly, then south-easterly, and enters the Gulf of Mexico about 45 miles south-west of Galveston. Its whole length is between 900 and 1000 miles, and it is navigable during high water, some 300 miles, the country along its course is generally very fertile, and produces large crops of cotton, sugar, and corn. There are extensive forests of red cedar and live oak on some parts of its course. The lower part of the Brazos flows through a level country, but slightly elevated above the sea. The principal towns on this river arc, Waco Villac/e, McLennan co. Nashville, below, in Milam co. Washington, Washington co. San Felipe, Austin co. Richmond, capital of Fort Bend co. Columbia, Brazoria co. Velasco, in same CO., at the mouth of the Brazos. THE COLORADO RIVER Takes its rise in the north-western part of Texas, and after a course of between 800 and 900 miles, empties into Matagorda bay. It is navigable for small steamers, during the rainy season, 200 or 300 miles. The lower part of its course, like the Brazos, flows through a rich alluvial plain, occupied by cotton, rice, corn, and sugar plantations. The principal towns on the Colorado are, Austin, capital of the State, and county seat of Travis co. (Austin is delightfully situated in a fine region of country, and is a flourishing city. Population about 3500.) Bastrop, below, capital of Bastrop co. La Grange, Fayette co. Columbus, county seat of Colorado co. Wharton, capital of Wharton co. Frcston, in same co. Matagorda, at the mouth of Colorado river, and on Matagorda bay, (this is a place of considerable business, population about 1500. There is a light-house at this point.) LAVACCA— NUECES— RIO GRANDE RIVERS. 65 THE LAVACCA RIVER Is a small stream, which rises ia Lavacca co, Texas. It is navigable to Texana, Jackson co., about 20 miles. It empties into Lavacca bay. Port Lavacca, capital of Calhoun co., Texas, on the west side of Lavacca bay. Indianola, Calhoun CO.; on the same side of Lavacca bay aa Port Lavacca. La Salle, Calhoun co., Texas, on the south-west side of Matagorda bay. Port Cavallo, in same co., on a point of land at the entrance of Mata- gorda bay, about o3 miles west of Matagorda. Saluria, same co., at the north- eastern end of Matagorda island, and entrance to the bay. THE GUADULUPE RIVER Takes its rise in Bexar co., Texas, and after a course of between 200 and 300 miles, enters the San Antonio some 15 miles from its mouth. The land on the course of this river is very rich. The most important towns on Guadulupe river are, Sisterville, Comal co. N^ew Brauvfeh, below capital of Comal co. Gonzales, capital of Gronzales co. Clintoiij capital of De Witt co. Victoria, capital of Victoria co. THE SAN ANTONIO RIVER Rises in Bexar co., Texas, and enters Espirito Santo bay opposite Matagorda island. The principal towns on San Antonio river are Castorville, capital of Medina CO. Helena, capital of Carnes co. Goliad, capital of Goliad co. THE MISSION RIVER Is a small stream running through Refugio co., Texas, into Aransas bay. Refugio, capital of county of same name, is situated a short distance above the mouth of the river. Lamar, and Copano, are small villages on Aransas bay, in Ilefugio co. THE ARANSAS RIVER Is a small stream. It empties into the bay of same name. THE NUECES RIVER Rises in the western part of Texas, and after a very circuitous course of between 350 and 400 miles, it empties into the Corpus Christi bay, in latitude 27° 30 north. It is navigable for small steamers about 125 miles. SanPatrico, in county of same name, on Nueces river. Baranca Blanca, below, in Nueces co. Corpus Christi., capital of Nueces co., Texas, is situated at &e mouth of Nueces river, on Corpiis Christi bay. THE RIO GRANDE Takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, and, in its course, forms the boundary between Mexico and Texas. Its whole length is about 2000 miles. It enters the Gulf of Mexico in latitude 25° north. It is mostly a shallow river, and navigation is greatly obstructed by sand bars and rapid.s. It is navigable for small steamers, in the highest stages of water, for about 400 miles. Some of the most important places on Ilio Grande are, El Paso, Mexico, near the north-western boundary of El Paso co., Texas. San Elazario, below, in El Paso CO. Fort Leaton, Presidio co., Texas. McKinney, McKinney co. Kingsbury's Rapids, in same CO., (about 400 miles above the mouth of the river ; stone coal is found a short distance above these rapids.) Palafos^ Webb CO. Furt Mcintosh, and Laredo, in same co. Alamo, Starr co. Mier, in Mexico. Roma, in Starr co., Texas. Rio Grande city, capital of Starr CO., (Population about 1000.) San Francisco, in Mexico, (opposite Rio Grande city.) Edinburgj 5 66 JiOUTES ON THE GULF OF MEXICO. m Hidalgo co., Texas. Reinosa, Mexico. Santa Rita, Mexico. Matamoras, Mexico. Brownsville, opposite Matamoras, is the county seat of Cameron co., Texas, and one of the most important towns in the State. It has a hirge trade with Mexico. Population about 5000. An important battle was fought here, in 1846, between the Mexican and U. S. troops, in which the latter were victorious. Brownsville is situated about 38 miles above the mouth of the liio Grande. Point Isabel, same co., is situated on the shore of Laguna del Madre, about 80 miles east of Brownsville. Vera Cruz, capital of the State of Vera Cruz, Mexico, is situated on tho south-west shore of the Gulf of Mexico, in 19° 12' north latitude, and 96° 9' west longi- tude, and has an average annual temperature of 77°. It is the principal seaport of Mexico, and is one of the oldest Spanish towns on the continent. 'J'he present city of Vera Cruz was founded by Count de Monterey, near the close of the I6th century, and is situated about 15 miles from the old town, planted in 1519, by Cortes, who, guided by religious superstition, named it " La Villa Rica," or. The rich tmcn of the true Cross. Before approaching the city, the lofty peak of Orizaba comes in view, with its cap of eternal snow, rearing its head far above the region of the drifting clouds, which hover around its summit. The city is enclosed by walls, and the streets are wide, regular, well-paved, and lighted by 232 lamps. The houses are mostly two stories high, with flat roofs, and built of sub- marine stone, obtained from the sea-shore. The red and white cupolas, numerous towers, and battlements, present a beautiful appearance when viewed from the sea. The harbor is very insecure, on account of the rocky state of the coast and the severity of the gales, that prevail here during a large portion of the year. The public buildings consist of hospitals, churches, and convents, and a custom-house, all remarkable for their size and solidity, rather than for their architectural beauty. The climate of the city, owing to the reflected heat from the numerous sand hills without the walls, and the scarcity of water, is extremely unhealthy, especially to foreigners. It is, perhaps, more subject to yellow fever than any other place on the coast. The country in the vicinity of Vera Cruz, produces every thing in abundance. Cattle roam in vast numbers over the plains, which, when properly cultivated, yield annually two abundant crops of corn, and tropical fruit of a superior quality. The table- lands vary so little in temperature, that they will produce most of the grains and fruits common to both temperate and torrid zones. Vera Cruz has been besieged and taken near ten times — once by a band of robbers — twice by the independent and ministerial troops — three or four times by the Spaniards — once by the French — and lastly by the Americans, under Gen(;ral Scott. The castle of San Juan de Ulloa commands the entrance of the harbor, and is the most celebrated fortress in America. It was commenced in 1582, on a small island or bar, a little more than 1000 yards distant from the town. The cost of this great work, whose foundations, buried deep in the sea, have resisted for near three centuries the lashing of its waves, and the fleets of the most powerful nations, is estimated at forty millions of dollars. The walls are from four to five yards in thickness. There are seven large cisterns within the castle, which contain 93,767 cubic feet of water. Its full equipment of artillery pieces is 367. The population of Vera Cruz is 15,000, and its commerce, very extensive. Most of the goods for the interior pass tlirough tliis place. It is connected with the city of Mexico, by an excellent road, along which, stages and merchandise are constantly passing. A regular communication is kept up by sea, with the various United States and European ports . Chagres and Panama , situated in the republic of New Grenada, on opposite sides of the Isthmus of Darien, are, from the great amount of travel to California, fast becoming important places. Chagres is on the Chagres river, 7 miles from its mouth, and is tlie landing place of all those who are going to California, by way of the Isthmus. The Chagres river is navigable as far as Cruzes, which is but 15 miles from Panama. The passage across the Isthmus, formerly performed on mules, was, during the rainy season, extremely difticult. It is now crossed by the Panama Railway. The climate is very unhealthy, and few foreigners think of remaining long in the place. AsriNWALL, Navy Bay, near Chagres, is the terminus of the Aspinwall and Panama Railroad— across the Isthmus, 46 miles — and the depot of steamers from New York. Panama, ou the Bay of Panama, Pacific coast, is a fortified town, having considerable trade. The population of Chagres is 2000, and of Panama 10,000. Being one of the regular stopping points of the New York, New Orleans, and Chagres steamers, we here insert a short description of ST. PETERS' — ST. CROIX RIVERS. 67 Havana, the capital of the island of Cuba, is situated in the north-western part of the island, in 23° 9' north latitude, and 82° 23' west lon},'itude. This city has one of the most secure and commodious harbors in the world. Its entrance is through a small channel, admitting but a single ship ; but within lliu basin it will contain a tliousand ships. The harbor is sheltered from the wind by the surrounding heights, and the chan- nel, which communicates with the sea, is eight or ten fatlioms deep. On the hills opposite the city, there is a continuous row of forts, from wh.ose outer parapet, elevated 150 feet above the level of the sea, a beautiful view of the city and its environs can be obtained. These works are said to have cost forty millions of dollars. The greatest object of attraction in Havana, is tlie cathedral. It is built of coral rock, of a yellowish color, whicli gives it the appearance of great age. In this cathedral are deposited the remains of Columbus. His bones rest on the right hand of the altar, in a small recess in the wall. On the left hand side of the altar, hangs the painting which was tlie constant companion of Columbus during his eventful voyages. Columbus died at Valladolid, May 20. IJOG, and his body was deposited in the Convent of St. Fran- cisco. In 1513, his remains, and those ol his son, were removed to Seville. In 1536, they were removed to Hispaniola, where they remained till 1795. His remains were then collected and carried in great pomp to Havana, where they now rest. Moro and I'unta castles are very strong works. Tlie arsenal and dockyard arc also on a grand scale. The citv, when viewed from a distance, presents a most beautiful appear- ance. Population 140,000. Vessels run regularly from Havana to New Orleans, and most of the Atlantic ports. Also, to all the important seaports of Europe. THE ST. PETERS, OR MINNESOTA RIVER This river has a total length of nearly 450 miles, and is navigable for steamboats 50 or 60 miles. The principal towns on its banks are South Bend City, in Blue Earth co., Minn., (about 100 miles from Fort Snclling) ; Mankato, in same co., 3 miles below ; St. Peters, in Nicollet co., 8 miles below ; Travrse Des Sioux, ^ miles below, in same co. ; Le Sueur, 8 miles below, in Le Seuer co. ; Henderson, 6 miles below, in Sibley co. ; Cliasca, Scott CO., 34 miles below ; Carver, in same co., 2 miles below ; Hennepin, 10 miles below, iu Hennepin co. The St. Peters empties into the Mississippi river at Fort Suelling, about 25 miles below Hennepin. (6Ve Mississippi river,) THE ST. CROIX RIVER. Rises in the north-western part of Wis., near Lake Superior, and flows southward till it reaches the Mississippi in 44° north latitude. It is about 200 miles long, and navigable for steamboats about 60 miles. Large quantities of pine lumber are annually brought down the river and shipped to ports below. St. Croix Falls, capital of Polk co., Wis., is at the head of steamboat navigation, on this river. Osceola, 9 miles below, in same county. Marine Mills, Washington co., Minn., 9 miles below. Stillwater, county scat of Washington co., Minn., 15 miles below. It contains a court-house, land-office, penitentiary, saw mills, and other machinery propelled by water-power, 3 hotels, a number of stores and forwarding houses. Settled in 1843. Population about 2000. The surrounding country is diversi- fied with timber and prairie, with a rich soil, watered by a number of small lakes and streams, abundantly supplied with fish. Stillwater commands a large portion of the lumber trade of the pineries on the upper waters of the St. Croix. Hudson, county seat of St. Croix co., Wis., 5 miles below, at the mouth of Willow river, has considerable water-power, and contains 2 churches, a court- house, land office, and several stores and mills. Lake St. Croix, commences just below Iludson, and extends to near the moutli of the river; it is a mere expansion of the river. Its width is from 3 to 4 miles. The St. Croix river enters the Mississippi 16 miles below Hudson, at Point Douglas. (^See Mississijppi River.) 68 CHIPPEWA— WISCONSIN-ROCK RIVERS. THE CHIPPEWA RIVER Rises in the northern part of Wis., near the head waters of tlie Montreal, and flows in a south-westerly direction. After a course of 'tOO miles, it joins the Mississippi near the tcnniuation of [>ake Pepin. Its principal branches are the Clear-Water and Red Cedar rivers. It is navij^ablc for steamboats 70 miles. The shores abound with pine forests. The nioutli of this river is tlie southern boundary of tliat tract of land ki'own as Ckirw.r's Tract. It lies principally in Crawford county, and contains an area of more than eight millions of acres. CajHain Caj-ver held this land by a deed obtained from the Indians, May 1, 17G7. It commences at the Falls of St. Anthony and follows the Mis- sissippi to the mouth of the Chippewa; thence cast, about 100 miles ; thence nortii 120 miles ; and thence, in a direct line, to the Falls. The Mississippi Land Company, of Ne-\r York, obtained, in 1824, a recognized deed before Judge Van Ness, of the U. S. District Court, New York. Chippewa Falls, on the Chippewa river, is the capital of the county of same name, in Wis., at head of steamboat navigation. It has extensive water- power, and a number of mills. Population about 500. THE WISCONSIN RIVER Rises in some small lakes near the northern boundary of tlie State, and after a south and south-westerly course of about 600 miles, crossing the entire State of Wis., it enters the Mississippi in 43° north latitude, '.\ tniles below Fort Crawford. It is navigable for steam- boats about IGO miles, to Portage city, where a short canal connects witli Fox river, which enters Green bay at Fort Howard, opening navigation from the Mississippi to the northern lakes. There are numerous tributaries emptying into the Wisconsin all along its course, some of them quite large streams. Wausau, or Big Bull Falls, on the Wiscon.sin river, in Marathon co., Wis., 170 miles north of Madison, capital of the State. Large quantities of lumber are annually sent down the river, in rafts, from this point. It contains a number of stores, flouring and saw mills, and a population of about 500. Little Bull Falls, about 18 miles below, in same co. Stephen's Point, 28 miles below, in Portage co., Wis., is a thriving village, with extensive water-power, and the adjacent country abounds in pines. The lumber business of this place is very extensive. It contains a number of stores, hotels, mills, and manufacturing establishments. Population about 700. Plover, county seat of Portage co.. Wis., 3 miles below, at the mouth of Plover river. The lumber trade, as in the towns above, is the chief business of Plover. Population about 500. Portage City, county scat of Columbia co., Wis., 115 miles below, is the terminus of the Wisconsin Central Railroad ; and a canal, a few miles long, connects the Wisconsin and Fox rivers at this point, as mentioned above. Port- age city is a flourishing place, and increasing rapidly, it contains a large number of stores, hotels, manufacturing establishments, a bank, and 2 printing offices, and commands the trade of a large district of country. Population about 3000. Prairie du Sac, Sauk co.. Wis., 40 miles below. Richland, 45 miles below, capital of llichland co.. Wis., is situated on Pine creek, just above its junction with the Wisconsin, with abundance of water-power. Brooklyn, Grant co., Wis, 05 miles below, and 7 miles from the mouth of the Wisconsin river. ROCK RIVER Rises in Fon du Lnc co., Wis., near Lake Winnebago, and flows in a south-westerly course, about 325 miles, through Wis., and 111., and enters tlie Mississippi, 2 miles below Rock Island. It is navigable for steamboats about 225 miles, during high water. The country through which this river passes, is reinarkuble for its fertility and beauty of scenery. Watertown, Jefl"erson co.. Wis., situated on llock river, at the " Great Bend." The rapids near the town have a fall of about 25 feet, afford- ing abundant water-power. Watertown contains 7 or 8 flouring and saw mills, 3 printing offices, several churches, a large number of stores and manufactories of diflfereut kinds. Population about 4500. It was settled in 1836. IOWA RIVER, 69 Jefferson, capital of Jefferson co., Wis., is a flourisliiug village, 16 miles below Wutcrtown, near the mouth of Cruwfisli river. It has iiue water- power, contains a number of churches and mills. I'ojjulatiou about 1500. The llock Kiver A^illey Railroad passes through the place. Fort Atkinson, 8 miles below, is a thriving village in the same county, at the mouth of Bark river. It is situated in a rich farming region. Population about (300. Janesville, county seat of Rock co., "Wis., 34 miles btlow, is beau- tifully situated, and contains 6 or 8 churches, a court-house, a female seminary, the State asylum for the blind, 4 printing offices, and factories and mills of different kinds. The Milwaukee and Mississippi Railroad passes through Janesville. Population about GOOO. Settled in 1835. Beloit, 18 miles below, in the same co., near the mouth of Turtle creek, has an active business and extensive water-power, it has several fine churches and seminaries. Beloit College is located here. Population about 4000. A branch of the Galena and Chicago Railroad extends to Beloit. Roscoe, Winnebago co., 111., 8 miles below, is a flourishing village. It haa good water-power, and a large woollen factory. IVipulatiou about 500. Eockford, 12 miles below, is the county seat of Winnebago co., 111. A large business is transacted here, and the place is supplied with an abundance of water-power, the Chicago and Caleua Railroad passes through it. Rockford con- tains 5 or 6 churches and 2 printing offices. Population about 4000. Byron , Ogle co.. 111., 12 miles below. Oregon, 10 miles below, in the same co. Population about 600. Dixon, county scat of Lcc co., 111., 20 miles below, has extensive water- power. It is on the line of the Galena branch of the Illinois Central Railroad. It contains several millS; a land office, 2 or 3 churches, and court-house. Popu- lation about 2500. Sterling, Whiteside CO., 111., 12 miles below, is beautifully located, with extensive water-power. Lyndon, 16 miles below, in sameco., is a flourishing village. Prophetstown, 2 miles below, in same co., has good water-power. E r i e , 10 miles below, in same co. Camden , 35 miles below, in Rock Island co.. 111., near the mouth of Rock river. It has an abundance of water-power, and a number of fine mills. THE IOWA RIVER Enters the Mississippi just below Now Boston, 26 miles btlow Muscatine. It takes its rise in Hancock co., lo., and flows in a south-east direction. Its lentrth is about 309 miles, and is navigable for small steamboats, about 80 miles, during high water. Hardin, on the Iowa river, in Hardin co., lo., Eldora, below, in same CO. Marietta, below, in Marshall co., lo. Toledo, below, in Tama co., lo. Marengo, below, in lo. co. Iowa City, capital of the State, and county seat of Johnson co., is beau- tifully situated on a high bank of the Iowa river, SO miles from its mouth It was laid out in 1839. The state-house is a fine edifice, built of " Birdsoye Marble," quarried in the neighborhood. The city contains 7 churches, 1 college, 1 academy, and 3 printing offices. The river affords abundant water-power for manufacturing purposes. Population about 4000. Johnson co. is in a rich agricultural region, well adapted to raising stock, wheat, corn, potatoes, &c. Port Allen, Louisa co., lo., 35 miles below Iowa city. Concord, 10 miles below, in sameco. Wapello, county seat of Louisa co., lo., 12 miles below, it has fine water- 70 DES MOINES RIVER. power, and contains several mills, and a printing office. Laid out in 1839 Pop. about 1000. The Iowa river enters the Mis^sissippi 23 miles below Wapello. THE DES MOINES EIVER Rises in the southern part of Minnesota, and, after a course of 400 miles, joins the Missibsippi, 4 miles below Keokuk. It is navigable for steamboats about aOO miles. Its course is through an exceedingly rich and fertile region, with numerous prairies. Fort Dodge, on the [)qa Moines viver, about 300 miles from its mouth, in Webster co., io. Buuiisboio, below, in liooue co., lo., capital of Boone co. Population about 350. Fort Des Moines, capital of Polk co., To., on the Des Moines river, at the point where Puicoou river enters it. It contains several schools and churches, a printing office, and a number of stores and manufactories. The rivers furnish extensive water-power. Fort Des Moines is about 220 miles, following the course of the river, from the Mississippi. It was laid out in 184G. Population estimated at 1500, and increasing rapidly. The river is navigable to this place, fur small steamboats, during high water. Dudley, 14 miles below, in same co. Lafayette, 5 nriles below, in same co. Bennington, Marion co., Io, about 10 miles below, is a small village. EedEoek, IG miles below, in same co., is a thriving place. Pop. about 500. Amsterdam, 12 miles below, in same co. Bellefontaine, Mahaska co., Io., 12 miles below, is a small village. Auburn, a small place, 12 miles below, in same co. Des Moines City, 8 miles below, in same co. Eddyville, 2 miles below Des Moines city, in Wapello co., is a flourishing village, with a number of churches and schools. Chillicothe, in the same co., 8 miles below. Ottnmwa, county seat of Wapello co., Io, 12 miles below, is a thriving town, with abundance of water-power, and surrounded by a fertile country. It has several mills and manufacturing establishments. lowaville. Van Buren co., Io., 20 miles below, has 2 flouring mills and 1 distillery. New Market, just below, in same co. Portland, in same co., 6 miles below. Philadelphia, 8 miles below, in same co. Pittsburg, 7 miles below, in Van Buren co. Keosauqua, capital of Van Buren co., Io., 5 miles below, is a thriving town. It contains a number of schools and churches, several grist and saw mills, a paper mill, and a number of manufacturing establishments. Pop. about 1200. Pleasant Hill, nearly opposite Keosauqua, in same co. Bentonsport, 8 miles below, in same co., is a flourishing village, with good water-power, and several mills and manufactories. Vernon, just below, in same co., is also a thriving place. Bonaparte , 5 miles below, in same co., has several grist and saw mills, and an extensive woollen factory. Farmington, 8 miles below, in same co., is a flourishing town, containing several flouring and saw mills, a foundry, and an engine shop. Pop. about 1000. Black Hawk, 3 miles below, in Clark co., Mo. Croton, 3 miles below, in Lee co., Io. Athens, 5 miles below, in Clark co., Mo., has good water-power, and several mills. ILLINOIS RIVER. 71 Belfast, 6 miles below, in Lee co., lo. Niagara, Ckrk co., Mo., 5 miles below. St. Francisville, 5 miles below, iu same co., is a thriving village. Churchville, 14 miles below, near the entrance of the Des Moines, into the Mississippi river. THE ILLINOIS RIVER Is formed by the union of tlie Kiiukakce and Des Plaines rivers at Dresden, Grundy co., 111. Above the mouth of Vermilion river, it is greatly obstructed by rapids ; but below this point the current is gentle, and the river is navigable for steamboats during most of the year. The country bordering on the river, is very rich and productive, and the com- merce on it very large. Steamboats ascend the river about "250 miles, wliere, by the aid of the Illinois and Micliigan Canal, a direct communication is opened with the lakes at (Jhicau-o. On the banks of this river, the French emigrants from Canada, settled them- selves, and here was the scenery on whicli they founded their extravagant panegyrics upou the western country. Dresden, is at the head of the Illinois river, as mentioned above, and about 325 miles from its entrance into the Mississippi. Population 300. The Illinois and Michigan Canal passes through the place. Morris, 10 miles below, is the capital of Grundy co.. 111., and an important shipping point for produce. The Chicago and Rock Island llailroad passes through Morris. Population about 1000. Clarkson, a small village in same county, 4 miles below. Pop. about 160. Marseilles, 17 miles below, in La Salle co., is a thriving town. The Grand Rapids of the Illinois at this place, affords an iiuniense water-power. There are a number of mills of various kinds, and a population of 500. The Illinois and Michigan Canal passes here. ttowa, 9 miles below, is the capital of La Salle co.. 111., situated on both sides of the river, and on the Illinois and Michigan Canal, near the mouth of Fox river. The Chicago and Rock Island Railroad passes through the town. Fox river, furnishes an immense water-power by a fall of about 80 feet. Stone coal is found near Ottowa. It contains a number of churches, mills, and factories, and 2 printin"' offices. Ponulation about o800. IT O J. Utica, 10 miles below, in same co., is a thriving village. La Salle, 5 miles below, in same co., is a flourishing town at the terminus of the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The river is navigable for steamboats to this point. A large manufacturing and commercial business is carried on here. The neighboring country is exceedingly rich and productive. The Galena branch of the Illinois Central Railroad passes through La Salle. Population about 3500. The Illinois & Micliigan Canal. — This important work was com- menced in the year ISoG, and huished in 1848. Its length is 100 miles, is 60 feet wide at top, and 36 at bottom, and is 6 feet deep. There are 17 locks, each 110 feet long, and 18 feet wide, being large enough for vessels of 120 tuns burden. The entire cost of the work was §6,600,000. Peru, 2 miles below La Salle, in same co., is a place of active business, and improving rapidly. It has fine water-power advantages. There are rich veins of stone coal in the vicinity. The Central Railroad, and Chicago and Rock Island, intersect here. Population nearly the same as La Salle. Hennepin, county seat of Putnam co., 17 miles below, in the Great Bend of the III. river. The location is a beautiful one, being elevated by a gradual and gentle ascent, to a height of about 25 feet above the river. This town was named in honor of Louis Hennepin, a Franciscan friar, and one of the early explorers of the north-west. It contains a court-house, jail, 2 churches, a number of stores, and about 800 inhabitants. Hennepin has an active trade in shipping and receiving produce and merchandise. 72- THE ILLINOIS RIVElt. West Hennepin, Bureau co., nearly opposite. Henry, IMaraluill co., 13 miles below, is a flourishing village. Large quan- tities of produce are sliipped from Henry. Population 1000. Lacon, G miles below, is the capital of Marshall co. It is a thriving town, and has an active trade. Population 1000. Chilli cothe, Peoria co., 13 miles below, at the head of Peoria lake, is a shipping poiut of importance. Population about 700. Peoria Lake, is an expansion of the Illinois river, commencing at the town of Chillicothe, and extending in a southerly direction for a distance of 22 miles. It has very little current, and the water is beautifully clear and trans- parent, so much so, that the fish, of which there is a great abundance, can be distinctly seen swimming about, and performing their various evolution.s, far beneath the surface. Rome, 4 miles below Chillicothe, in same co.,on the west bank of Peoria lake. Spring Bay, 4 miles below, on the opposite side of the lake, in Woodford CO., is a flourishiug village doing an active shipping business. Detroit, 7 miles below, in Peoria co. Little Detroit, 2 miles below, in Woodford co. Peoria, 5 miles below, county seat of Peoria co., is handsomely situated at the southern end of Peoria lake. The town lies on two tables of land, the first being about 12 feet above the water's edge, and the second 5 or 6 feet higher, and extending back some distance to the bluffs, in the rear of the town, which rise 100 feet above the general level. It contains, besides the county buildings, 10 or 12 churches, 6 printing offices, a number of schools and seminaries, mills and manufacturing establishments, and has a very large trade in pork, grain, lumber, &c. The Peoria andOquaka Eailroadhas a terminus here. Pop. 12,000. Wesley City, 4 miles below, in Tazewell co., is a thriving village. Pekin, 7 miles below, in same co., is an important town, and has an active trade. It contains 2 or 3 printing offices, and several schools, churches, and steam mills. Population about 3000. Liverpool, Fulton co., 28 miles below. Population about 800. ■ Havana, 9 miles below, capital of Mason co., opposite the mouth of Spoon river, is a flourishing town and finely situated on a high ridge, 50 feet above high water mark. Population about 1100. Bath, in same co., 12 miles below, is surrounded by a rich country. Sangamon River, enters the Illinois, 18 miles below. Fredericksville, 3 miles below, in Schuyler co., is a thriving village, doing a large business in the shipping of produce. Beardstown, 4 miles below, on the east bank of the river, is the county seat of Cass co. It has an active trade, and 2 or 3 churches, a printing office, the usual county buildings, and a population of about 600. La Grange, Brown co., 8 miles below, is a small village. Meredosia, 9 miles below, in Morgan co., is pleasantly situated on the east bank of the Illinois, on a fine elevation. It contains 2 steam mills, a number of stores, and a population of 400. Naples, 7 miles below, in Scott co., on the east bank of the river, is a pleasant and thriving town. It contains 2 churches, 3 steam mills, a number of stores, a printing office, and a population of about 1000. The Morgan and Sanga- mon Railway terminates here, which connects Naples with Springfield, the State cap- ital, about 55 miles east. Large quantities of produce are shipped from this point Florence, Pike co., 10 miles below, has a good landing. THE MISSOURI RIVER. ^^ Mouteznma, 6 miles below, in same co., is a good shipping point. Bridgeport, Green co., 6 miles below, is a small village, and good shipping point fur produce. Newport, 8 miles below, in same countj, is a small place. Hardin, county seat of Calhoun co., 14 miles below. Population about 650. Guilford, 4 miles below, in same co., is a small village. Monterey, in same co.,4 miles beh^w, and 13 miles above the mouth of the Iliiuois river, which empties into the Mississippi, 18 miles above Alton. THE MISSOURI RIVER Rises in the Rocky Mountains, and takes its name after tlie nnion of three branches, the Jeftersoii, Gallatin, and Madison. The springs whicl) give rise to the Missouri river, are not more than a mile distant from some of the head waters of the Columbia river, which run, in a contrary direction, into the Pacific ocean. At the distance of 441 miles from the extretne point of the navigation of the head branches of the Missouri, are what arc denominated the " Gates of the Rocky Mountains," which present an exceedingly grand and picturesque appearance. For the distance of about b miles, the rocks rise perpendicularly from the margin of the river, to the hei"-ht of 1200 feet. The river is compressed to the breath of 150 yards, and for the first 3 miles, there is but one spot, and that only of a few yards, on whicli a man can stand between the water and the perpendicular ascent of the mountain. At the distance of 110 miles below, and 551 miles from the source of the river, are the " Great Falls," 2,575 miles from the egress of the river into the Mississippi. At this place the river descends, by a suc- Bion of rapids and falls, a distance of 357 feet in I6i.< miles. The lower and greater fall has a perpendicular pitch of 98 feet, the second of ll), the third of 47, and the fourth of 26 feet. Between and below these falls are continual rapids of from 3 to 18 feet descent. These falls next to those of Niagara, are the grandest on the continent. Above the falls, the course of the rives is northv/artlly. The length of the Missouri river, from its source to its entrance into the Mississippi, is 3,096 miles, which, with the addition of 1,353 miles, the distance from the mouih to the Gulf of Mexico, makes a total length of 4,449 miles, being the longest river in the world. Through its whole course, there is no substantial obstruction to the navigation, before arriving at the " Great Falls." Its principal tributaries are each navigable from 1 to 800 miles. Through the greater part of its course, the Missouri is a rapid and turbid stream, and in the upper part it flows through an arid and sterile country. It is over half a mile wide at its mouth, and is generally nearly a mile in width. Notwithstanding itdrainssuch an extensive region of country, and receives so many large tributaries, it is, at certain seasons of the year, quite shallow, not aifording suflicient water for steamboat navigation, owing to its passage through a dry and open country, and being subject to more than usual evaporation. The Missouri river trade has became a very important one, and the annual business between St. Louis and the towns on the river, and with Santa Fe, through Independence, is increasing with an amazing rapidity. Tlie Missouri river enters the Mississippi, 18 miles above St. Louis, by a mouth mnch wider than the upper Mississippi. It is the opinion of many geographers, that the Missouri river is the main river, and should be considered as one river from its head to the Gulf of Mexico. The reascms in support of this opinion are, that below the mouth of the Missouri, the Mississippi has the same turbulent apjK-arance as the Missouri ; while the upper Mississippi is remarkable for its clearness and transparency. There are some peculiarities of the Missouri river, which it is highly important for emigrants, who design settling on its banks, to understand. The river has no permanent and settled channel, and it is on this account that steamboats are generally compelled to lay up in the night, it not being considered safe to run unless with the liijht of day to guide them. Many persons who have purchased farms on the banks of this river, not understanding the nature of the current, have lost acre after acre by the washino- away of the soil. Not only have farms suffered in this w.ay, but whole towns have been laid w.a.ste, and swept off with tlie resistless current of this mighty river, compelling the in- habitants to seek other, and more permanent places of abode. The channel is rendered intricate by the great number of islands and sand-bars ; and in many places the navigation is made very hazardous by the rafts, snags, banks, d-c. The river begins to rise in March, and continues till July, when the summer fluods of its remote tributaries come in. During this period, there is sufficient depth of water for steamboats of almost any class ; but during the remainder of the year, it is liardly navi- gable for any distance, for the smallest vessels that float upon the western waters. 74 THE MISSOURI RIVER. " The bottoms of this river have a character very distinguishable from those of the upper Mississippi. They are higher, iiol so wet, more sandy, with trees which are not so laro-e, but taller and straighter. Its alluvions are some thing narrower ; that is to s^, havin" for the first 500 miles a medial width of something more than 4 miles. Its blutfs, like tiiosc of the other river, are generally limestone, but not so perpendicular, and have more tendency to run into the mamelle form. The bottoms abound with deer, turkeys, and small game. The river seldom overflows any part of its banks in this distance. It is little inclined to be swampv. There is much fewer lakes, bayous, and small ponds, than along the Mississippi. Prairies are scarcely seen on tlie banks of the river, within the distance of the first 400 miles of its course. It is heavily timbered ; and yet, from the softness of the wood, easily cleared. Tlie water, though uncommonly turbid with a whitish earth, which it holds in suspension, soon and easily settles, and is then remark- ably pure, pleasant, and healthy water. The river is so rapid and sweeping in its course, and its bed is composed of such masses of sand, that it is continually shitting its sand bars. A chart of the river as it runs this year, gives little ground for calculation in navi- gating it the next. It has numerous islands, and generally near them is the most difficult to be stemmed. Still more than the Mississippi below its mouth, it tears up one place and deposits in another, and makes more frequent and powerful changes in its channel than anv other western river. ******** * » Above tiie Platte, the open and prairie character of the country begins to develop. The prairies come quite into the banks of ttie river, and stretch from it indefinitely, in naked grass plains, where the traveler may wander for days without seeing either wood or water The ' Council Bluffs,' are an important military station, about GOO miles up the Missouri. Beyond this point, commences a country of great interest and grandeur in many respects, and denominated, by way of eminence, the Upper Missouri. The ccmntry is composed of vast and almost boundless grass plains, through which, stretch the Platte, the Yellow Stone, and the other rivers of this ocean of grass. The savages of this region have a peculiar physiognomy and mode of life. It is a country where commence new tribes of plants. It is the home of buifalos, elk, white bears, antelopes, and mountain sheep. Sometimes the river washes the bases of the dark hills of a friable and crumbling soil Here aie found, as Lewis and Clarke, and other respectable travelers relate, large and sino-ular petrifactions, both animal and vegetable. On the top of one of tliese hills, they found the petrified skeleton of a huge fish, 45 feet in length. The herds of the gregarious animals, particularly the buffalos, are innumerable. Such is the general character of the country, until we come in contact with the spurs of the Rocky Mountains." (FliiiW Geo. and Hist, of the Mississippi Valley.) From the source of the Missouri and tributaries, to Sioux City, lo., the lands alon*' the river are almost entirely void of human habitations. There are some Unit'ed States' military posts along the banks of the river, among which, are Fort Benton, Fort Berthold, Fort McKenzie, Fort Union, Fort Mandan, Fort Clarke, Fort St. Pierre, and a few others. Sioux City, is at the junction of Big Stone river, with the Missouri, in Woodbury co., lo. Tekama, county seat of Burt co., Nebraska, about 60 miles below, is jBnely situated on a high bank, in a good farming region. D e Soto, 30 miles below, in Washington co., Nebraska, is also finely situated in a rich country, well timbered. Fort Calhoun, 15 miles below, in Washington co., Nebraska. Florence, 10 miles below, iu Nebraska. Council Bluff's City, 10 miles below, capital of Pottawattomie co., lo., is finely situated on a high bluff, with a beautiful view of the surrounding country, which is a rich farming region, well timbered. Council Bluff's is on one of the emigrant routes for California and Oregon. It contains a land office, 2 churches, 3 schools, a number of stores, and mechanic's shops. Population about 2500. * Omaha City, capital of Nebraska, in Douglass co., opposite Council Bluff's City, is beautifully situated, on a plain about 50 feet from the bed of the river. It contains a printing office, and a number of good buildings, and is improving rapidly. Council Point, 5 miles below, in Pottawattomie, co. To., is the landing point for a Mormon town, named Kanesville, about 4 miles in the interior. THE MISSOURI RIVER. 75 Traders' Point, 3 miles below, in the same co., is a small French settle- ment, established to facilitate trade between the various Indian traders. It con- tains about 100 inhabitants. Bellevue, 2 miles below, in Nebraska. It is the residence of the agent employed by the United States, to attend to the government business, with the tribes inhabiting this territory. It has a good lauding, and is pleasantly situated on a high plain. The first newspaper published in Nebraska was commenced here in 1854. This point was first visited by Lewis and Clarke, in 1804, andsoon after, the American Fur Company established a trading post here. St. Mary's, 5 miles below, in Mills co., lo. California City 2 miles below, in same co., opposite the mouth of Nebraska or Platte river. Platte, or Nebraska River, rises in the Rocky Mountains, by two branches, termed the North and South Forks. After an easterly course of nearly 2000 miles, it empties into the Missouri at this point. It is about a mile wide at the mouth ; but is, as its name indicates, exceedingly shallow, and is not navigable, except in iimes of the great spring freshets. Plattsville, Mills co., lo., 2 miles below the mouth of Platte river. Plattsmouth, capital of Cass co., Nebraska, 1 mile below, is beautifully located on a high bank, in the vicinity of fine timber and stone coal. Bethlehem, 1 mile below, in Mills co., lo. Kenosha, Cass co., Nebraska, 10 miles below. Nebraska City, county seat of Otoe co., Nebraska, 10 miles below. Brownsville, county seat of Nemehaw co., Nebraska, thirty miles below, is finely situated in the region of stone coal and good timber. Iowa Point, 40 miles below, in Holt co.. Mo., is the landing point for the town of Oregon, county seat of Holt co., situated 10 miles in the interior. Oregon contains a population of about 500. Nodeway City, 30 miles below, in Andrew co., Mo., is a small village containing a few stores, and about 200 inhabitants. It is the landing point for Savannah, a town of about 800 inhabitants, situated a few miles off the river, the county scat of Andrew co. St. Joseph, 25 miles below, county scat of Buchanan co.. Mo., is a thriving and important town. It was laid out in 1843, and named in honor of Mr. Joseph Rubidoux, who resided here upward of 40 years. St. Joseph is the largest town in western Missouri, and one of the points of departure for emi- grants to California and Oregon. It is situated in an exceedingly rich region of country, producing large quantities of hemp, wheat, and tobacco. It contains 7 or 8 churches, 5 steam flouring mills, several saw mills, a bagging factory, various manufacturing establishments, 3 printing offices, a large number of stores and warehouses, and a population of between 5000 and 6000. The western terminus of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad is here. Leachman, 25 miles below, in same co. Doniphan, 8 miles below, in Kansas. Atchinson, 9 miles below, in Kansas. Kickapoo City, 12 miles below, in Kansas, is well situated for trade. It has one newspaper office, and is improving rapidly. Weston, 10 miles below, in Platte co.. Mo., is a fine flourishing place, and is rapidly improving. Many of the emigrants make this a stopping place, for laying in supplies, previous to starting out on the plains. It contains several churches, 2 printing offices, a large number of stores, &c. Pop. about 3000. 7^ THE MISS OU HI RIVER. Fort Leavenworth, 4 miles below, in Kansas, is on a liigli bluff. The situatiuii is rcniarkahlj tine, the bluff being about 150 feet in height, and com- posed principally of white limestone. There is an excellent landing for boats, and many other superior advantages at this point. It is the rendezvous for all United States' troops destined for Santa Fe, Oregon, and the frontier stations. One of the principal routes to California couimenccs at this place. Little Platte River, rises in Clarke co., Ic, and pursuing an almost direct southward course for a distance of about 200 miles, empties into the Missouri, 20 miles below Fort Leavenworth. This river is exceedingly shallow, and difficult to navigate. Parkville, 2 miles below, in Platte co.. Mo., is a fine flourishing village. It was named in honor of one of the early settlers of this region, by the name of Park. It is an important shipping point for produce. Population about GOO. Wyandotte City, 12 miles below, in Kansas, at the junction of Kansas river with the Missouri, is one of the starting points for emigrants. Kansas River. — This is one of the largest tributaries of the Missouri. It rises in the Ilocky Mountains, and flows eastward through the entire breadth of the Indian territory, and empties into the Missouri, 12 miles below Parkville. Its entire length is about 1200 miles, for 900 of which, it might be navigated. It is 340 vards wide at the mouth, and discharges an immense amount of water ; many of its tributaries being nearly as large as itself. Solomon's fork, is 700 miles long ; Smoky Hill fork, 800 miles. Kansas near the mouth of Kansas river, in Jackson co.. Mo., is pleasantly situated, standing on a high bank of the river, and commanding a view of the surrounding country for many miles. It is thought by many, to possess the finest situation of any town on the river. The business is very exten.sive, there being an almost constant stream of emigrants passing through it. Pop. about 1200. Randolph, 5 miles below, in Clay co.. Mo., is a handsome village, finely situated on a commanding eminence. It contains 2 churches, several stores, and a population of 300. Wayne City, 7 miles below, is the principal landing point for goods and merchandise destined for Independence, and is connected with it by the Indepen- dence Railroad. The Independence Railroad Depot is about one mile from "Wayne city. There is generally quite an air of business about this place, from constant arrival of goods and emigrants on their way to Independence. The road is 4 miles long. Independence, county seat of Jackson co.. Mo., about 4 miles back of "Wayne city, is a place of great importance and growing rapidly. The country around is exceedingly fertile, and well adapted to cultivation. The business done is very large. It contains a court-house and county buildings, 3 hotels, 7 churches, a large number of wholesale and retail stores, and a population of about 3000. There is a large trade carried on between this place and Santa Fe. The goods are transported across the country in wagons, built very large and strong, and usualiv drawn by oxen, from 16 to 20 of which are attached to each wagon. It is the western terminus of the St. Louis and Pacific Railroad. Independence derives much of its importance from being the point where many of the emigrants for California and Oregon, get their last supplies. Liberty Landing, 5 miles below Wayne City, in Clay co., is a landing point for the town of Liberty, 4 miles from the river. Livingston, Jackson co., 5 miles below, is a small village, formerly a landing place for Independence. Owen's Landing, 1 mile below, in same co. Richfield, Clay co., 10 miles below, is a small village. THE MISSOURI RIVER. 77 Sibley, 10 miles below, is a thriving village, in Jackson cc. It occupies the former site of Fort Osage. It contains 2 churches, a number of stores, and about 500 inhabitants. Napoleon , 6 miles below, in same co. Camden, G miles below, in Ray co., is a flourishing town. Population 500. Wellington, 7 miles below, in Lafayette co., is a small village. Lexington, county seat of Lafayette co., 8 miles belnw. It is a fine, thriving town, having the highest location of any town on the river, being about 300 feet above high water mark. The first house built here was in the year 1839 ; and it now contains a court-house, jail, and county oSices, 7 churches, a seminary, a land ofhcc, 2 printing offices, and a large number of stores. Population about 4500. Extensive veins of stone coal are found near Lexington. Crooked River , enters the Missouri from Hay co., 6 miles below Lexington. Walconda, 15 miles below the mouth of Crooked river, in Carroll co. Waverly, 3 miles below, in Lafayette co., is a flourishing village. Popu- lation about GOO. Hill's Landing, Carroll co., 10 miles below, is a small village. Miami, 20 miles below, in Saline co. De Witt, Carroll co., 6 miles below. Grand Eiver, rises in Madison co., lo., and flows in a southwest direction for a distance of 240 miles, and enters the Missouri 5 miles below De Witt, forminc the bouudarv line between Carroll and Charitou counties. It is uavi- gated by boats about 100 miles. Brunswick, 2 miles below the mouth of Grand river, in Chariton co., is an enterprising town. It is situated on a beautiful level prairie, and contains several churches, a large number of stores, and business establishments. Popu- lation about 2500. Old Jefferson, 25 miles below, in Saline co., is a small village. There was formerly a place by this name, a short distance down the river, opposite Glasgow ; but the remorseless river swept it off", and the inhabitants were com- pelled to seek for other lodgings. Cambridge, 2 miles below, in same co. Chariton River, rises in Lucas co., lo., and after a course of 150 miles, in a southerly direction, enters the Jlissouri 5 miles below Cambridge. It is not navigable for more than about 30 miles. Glasgow, 3 miles below, in Howard co., is a thriving town. It has an active trade, and is a shipping point of produce, &c., for the surrounding country. It has two printing offices, a female seminary, several churches, and a large number of business houses. Population about 1500. Bluffport, 5 miles below, in Howard co., is a small village. Arrow Rock, 10 miles below, in Saline co., is finely situated about 150 feet above the river. It derives its name from the fact that the Indians used pieces of the rock found here, for making arrow heads. Population about 400. La Mine River, ri«es in Lafayette and Johnson counties, and empties into the Missouri lU miles below Arrow Rock. It is navigable for about 30 miles. The water of this river is remarkably clear. Booneville, 6 miles below the mouth of La Mine river, is the county seat of Cooper CO. It is situated on a bluff", elevated about 100 feet above high water mark, and received its name in honor of the celebrated Colonel Daniel Boone. It contains 3 or 4 printing offices, 2 academies, several churches, a court-house, and a large number of stores and business houses. Booneville is in 78 THE MISSOURI RIVER. the midst of a rich farming country. Much attention is paid to the cultivation of the grape. Bituminous coal, iron, lead, &c., are found in the vicinity. Pop- ulation about 2500. Old Franklin, Howard co., opposite Booneville. Rocheport, Boone co., 12 miles below, at the mouth of Moniteau creek. Stone coal is found in the vicinity. Population about 500. Mt. Vernon, Moniteau co., 8 miles below. Providence, G miles below, in Boone co., is the landing place for Columbia, situated a lew miles in the interior. Nashville, 2 miles below, in the same county, is a small village. Moniteau, 3 miles below, in county of same name. Marion, Cole co., 6 miles below. Population about 500. Stonesport, 10 miles below, in Boone co., is a small village. Jefferson City, 6 miles below, is the capital of the State of Missouri, and couuty seat of Cole co. The situation is high, and commands a fine view. It contains a State house, the Governor's house, State penitentiary, court-house, 3 printing offices, a number of churches, and a large number of stores and commission houses. The St. Louis & Pacific Railroad passes through JeflFerson City. Population about 3500. Hibernia, opposite Jefi'erson City, in Callaway Co., is a small village. Formosa, 9 miles below, in Cole co., near the mouth of the Osage river, Osage River rises in the Indian territory, and after a meandering course of about 500 miles, empties into the Missouri at this point. It is 400 yards wide at the mouth, and is navigable for steamboats about 200 miles. The land bordering on this river is exceedingly fertile, and yields abundant crops of all the products of the West. Cote Sans Dessein, 5 miles below the mouth of the Osage river, in Callaway co., is a small village. Smith's Landing, 8 miles below, in same co. Portland, 16 miles below, in same co. Gasconade River rises in Wright co.. Mo., and taking its course in a northerly direction for a distance of 200 miles, enters the Missouri 10 miles below Portland. It is not navigable to any extent, but affords a vast amount of water-power to the numerous mill-seats along its banks. The St. Louis &, Pacific Railroad crosses this river near its mouth, which was the scene of a terrible and heart rending calamity, at the celebration of the opening of the road to Jefferson City, in November, 1855, by which about 30 of the most prominent citizens of St. Louis lost their lives, and hundreds of otliers were seriously maimed. Just as tlie locomotive liad crossed the first span, the bridge gave way, and" 9 of the 13 cars in the train, crowded to overtlowing witli people, were, with the locomotive, precipitated to the bed of the river, with an awful crash, into a mass of ruins. Hermann, 6 miles below, is the capital of Gasconade co. It is a thriving place, population about 1100. The St. Louis & Pacific Railroad passes through Hermann. Bridgeport, 1 mile below, in Warren co. 'f Pinckney , in same county, 12 miles below, is a small village. Griswold, nearly opposite Pinckney, in Franklin'-co. Washington, IG miles below, in same co., is a flourishing town. Bassora, 1 mile below, in same co. South Point, 2 miles below, also in same co. The St. Louis & Pacific Railroad pas.ses through Griswold, Washington, Bassora, and South Point. Portmuna, G miles below, in St. Charles co. KA SKA SKI A RIVER— WHITE RIVER. 79 Mt. Pleasant, in same co., 1 mile below Portmuna. St. Albans, Franklin co., 8 miles below. Missouriton, 1 mile below, in St. Charles co. Johnson's Ferry, 2 miles below, in same co., is a small village. Port Royal, opposite Johnson's Ferry, in Franklin co. Pittman's Ferry, 5 miles below, in St. Charles co. St. Charles, IS miles below, is the capital of St. Charles co., and a flourishiug place. It is handsomely situated on elevated ground, and commands delif^htfuf views. There are fine quarries of limestone, and sandstone in the vicinity; also mines of stone coal. The river at this point is over a mile wide. St. Charles contains a college, 7 or 8 churches, a court-house, and a number ot stores. Population about oOOO. Jamestown, 16 miles below, in St. Lous co. Bellefontaine, in same co., 2 miles below. Columbus, 4 miles below, at the mouth of the Missouri, and junction with the Mississippi. THE KASKASKIA RIVER Rises near the center of Illinois, in Champaigne co., and empties into the Mississippi, 76 miles below St. Louis. It is navigable for steamboats about 150 miles, its whole length is some 300 miles. Shelbyville, 111., on the Kaskaskia river, is the eounty seat of Shelby co. It contains a court-house, several churches, and a number of stores. The Alton -and Terre Haute Railroad passes through Shelbyville. Vandalia, about 50 miles below, (following the river course,) is the county seat of Fayette co., and was the former capital of the State. It is on the line of the Illinois Central Railroad. Population about 1200. Keysport, Clinton co., 27 miles below, (by the river,) is a small village. Carlyle, capital of Clinton co., 12 miles below, contains several mills, the county buildings, and a number of stores. The Ohio and Mississippi Railroad passes through the place. Covington, 14 miles below, in same co. Fayetteville, St. Clair co., 26 miles below, is a small place. Athens, 9 miles below, in same co. Lively, in same co., 2 miles below. Tamarawa, 3 miles below, in Monroe co. Evansville, Randolph co., 20 miles below. Kaskaskia, county seat of Randolph co., 8 miles below, was founded shortly after the visit of La Salle to the Mississippi, in 1683, by Father Gravier, a Catholic missionary among the Illinois, and was the capital of the Illinois country, so long as the French continued in possession of it. In 1763, it was ceded by France to Great Britain. In 1778, the fort, on the east side of the river, waa taken by Col. George Rogers Clark. Kaskaskia contains a court-house, a land office, and a population of about 1000, mostly of French descent. The Kaskaskia river enters the Mississippi 7 miles beJow the town. WHITE RIVER Rises in the Ozark Mountains, and runs first north easterly into Mo., and then into Ark., in a southwardly direction to its entrance into the Mississippi, 16 miles above the Arkansas river. Black river is its largest tributary. Its whole leiigtli is between 750 and 800 miles. It is navigable for about 400 miles. The country through which it passes, is generally fertile, producing fine crops of cotton and corn, and some portions rich in mine- rals. I'ine forests abound on its upper waters, and cypress swamps, toward the mouth. Worth, is a small village in Marion co.. Ark., on White river, near the boundary line of Mo. 80 THE ARKANSAS RIVER. Johnson, 55 miles below, (by the river course,) in same co. Liberty, 28 miles below, in Izard co. Athens, in the same co., 25 miles below. Mt. Olive, 6 miles below, is the capital of Izard co. Sylamore, in same co., 6 miles below. Batesville,45 miles below, capital of Independence co., and a thriving town. Small steamers can reach this place at nearly all seasons. It contains several churches, the usual county buildings, and 2 printing offices. The sur- rounding country is fertile, with fine water-power. Population about 1800. Jacksonport, Jackson co., 35 miles below, at the mouth of Black river, ■which is navigable for small steamers, some distance. Elizabeth, 10 miles below, is the county seat of Jackson co. This is a thriving place, and exports large quantities of timber. Augusta, 05 miles below, in same co., is a flourishing village, finely situatfcdin a rich region of country. Des Arc, Prairie co., 35 miles below, in a fertile cotton, and sugar growing country ; oak, cedar, and cypress timber, is abundant in the vicinity. Pop. 500. Clarendon, 38 miles below, in Monroe co. Crockett's Bluff, in Arkansas co., 33 miles below. Cass Coe, 8 miles below, in same co., 50 miles from the Mississippi river, by the meanders of the stream. THE ARKANSAS RIVER Rises in the Rocky Mountains, near the boundary between the Indian Territory and Utah, and after pursuing an easterly course of over 2000 miles, empties into the Mississippi in latitude 33° 54' north. It pours abroad and deep stream from the mountains upon the arid and sandy plains below. The sand and the dry atmosphere absorb the water to such a degree, that it may often be forded many hundred miles below the rnount.iins. Some of its tributaries are so impregnated with salt, as to render even the waters of the main stream unpotable. To the distance of about 400 miles from its mouth, it has many lakes and bayous. In high water, it is navigable for steamboats as far \\t^ as Fort Gibson, at the mouth of Grand river, by water, 750 miles. Next to the Missouri, this is the largest tributary of the Mississippi, though not the most important. Below Van Buren, the land along the river is productive, and well timbered. The territory drained by this river and its tributaries is estimated to contain 178,000 square miles. Between Fort Smith and Little Rock, bituminous coal is frequently found along its banks. Fort Gibson, a military station, in the Indian territory, on the Neasho river, just above its entrance into the Arkansas. The Illinois and Gxnadian rivers empty into the Arkansas, some distance below Fort Gibson. Fort Coffee, 100 miles below, and west of the boundary of Arkansas. Fort Smith, 20 miles below, on the western boundary of the State, in Se- bastian CO., is a thriving town. It carriei5 on an extensive trade with the Indians. The U. S. Government has a military post here. It contains the government buildings, a printing office, a church, and a population of about 1400. Van Buren, capital of Crawford co., 10 miles below, is a thriving place, pleasantly situated. It has a large trade with the surrounding country. The place contains a cotton factory, a steam flouring mill, 4 or 5 handsome churches, 2 printing offices, and a population of about 2000. Ozark , county scat of Franklin co., 60 miles below, is a small village. Roseville, 12 miles below, in same co. Patterson's Bluff, a small place, 20 miles below, in Johnson co. Spadra Bluff, in same co., 15 miles below. Pittsburg, 5 miles below, in same co. YAZO O RIVER— RED RIVER. 81 St. Martin's, Pope co., 10 miles below- Scotia, 2 miles below, in same co. Norristown, in same co., 20 miles below. Dardenelle, opposite, in same co. Lewisburs^, Conway co., 40 miles below. Greene Grove, 18 miles below, in same co. Little Rock, 40 miles below, capital of the State of Arkansas, and county scat of Pulaski co., is situated on a high rocky bluff, the first above the mouth of the river, commanding a beautiful and extensive view of the adjacent country. The city contains the State House, a fine brick building, a U. S. arsenal, the State penitentiary, 7 or 8 churches, 2 printing offices, and a population of about 3000. Slate, and a species of granite are found in the vicinity, also good clay for making brick. Straw Hat, 70 miles below, in Jefferson co. Pine Bluff, 20 miles below, county seat of Jefferson co., is a flourishing place, in a fertile cotton raising region. Large quantities of cotton are annuallj shipped from this point. Population about 600. Hob Roy, in same co., 12 miles below. New Gascony , 10 miles below, in same co. Richland, 8 miles below, in same co. Swan Lake, Arkansas co., 5 miles below. Niccattoo, 10 miles below, in same co. South Bend, 30 miles below, in same co. Arkansas Post, 25 miles below, capital of Arkansas, co., is the oldest town in the State. If was founded by the French in 1685. It is located on a high bluff; but, in the rear of the town, the land is low and frequently inundated. It contains a court-house, jail, and printing office. Population about 500. Red Fork, Desha co., 10 miles below. "Wellington, 20 miles below, in same co. The Arkansas river enters the Mississippi, 30 miles below Wellington. THE YAZOO RIVER Rises near the central part of the State of Mississippi. It is formed by the nnion of tho Tallahatchee and Yallahusha, which are navigable rivers. After receiving the Sun-flower which runs nearly parallel with the Mississippi, and is navigable for 80 miles, it empties into the Mississippi, 300 miles from its source. Tlie country bordering on this river is very rich, and produces cotton in great abundance. From Greenwood, at the mouth of the Tallahatchec, several large steamboats run regularly to New Orleans, during the cotton season. The number of bales of cotton that annually float down this river, is estimated at 150,000. It is a sluggish stream, and navigable throughout its whole length- Tazoo City, county .seat of Yazoo co., Miss., some 160 miles below Green- wood, is a flourishing town, in the midst of a rich cotton growing country, and has considerable trade. A large amount of cotton is forwarded from this point to New Orleans. It has 2 or 3 printing offices, a number of churches, and a pop- ulation of about 2000. Liverpool, and Satartia, below, in same co. Cardiff, about 15 miles from the mouth of the river, in Warren co., Miss. RED RIVER Rises in a chain of hills near Santa Fe, in New Mexico, called tho Caous mountains, and after pursuing an easterly course of some 1500 miles, empties into the Mississippi 215 miles above New Orleans, and 776 below the mouth of the Oliio. It receives, in its course, the waters of a number of rivers, the largest of which, are the Blue river and Falsa Washita, or Rio Negro. After leaving the mountains, it flows through extensive prairies 6 82 RED RIVER. of rich, red soil, which impart their color to the -water. From this circumstance it re- ceived the name of Red river. The margin of the river is covered, in many places, with grass and fine vines, which bear delicious grapes. The bottoms are from one to ten miles wide, and are well timbered with willow, locust, cotton-wood, pawpaw and buckeye. On the uplands, elm, ash, hickory, mulberry, and black-walnut grow in great abundance. The width of its channel, for 400 miles from its mouth, docs not correspond with its length, or the immense mass of waters which it collects in its course from the Rocky mountains. In high waters, it is often divided into two or tliree channels, and spreads into a line of bayous and lakes, which lake up its superabundant waters, which are a con- siderable time in filling, and prevent the river from displaying its breadth and amount of waters, as it does in the high-lands, 500 miles above. About 100 miles above Natchi- toches,' commences what is called the Ka/Z, which is nothing more than an immense swampy alluvial of the river, to the width of 20 or 30 miles. The river here, spreading into a vast number of channels, frequentlv shallow, of course, has been for ages, clogging up with a compact mass of timber and fallen trees, wafted from the regions above. * « « The river is blocked up with this immense mass of timber, a distance, by its meanders of 70 miles. There are places where the water can be seen in motion under the logs. In other places, the whole width of the river may be crossed on horse-back. Weeds, flower- in» shrubs, and small willows, have taken root upon the surface of this timber, and flourish above the waters. It is an impediment of incalculable injury to the navigation of this noble river, and the immense extent of country above it. There is probably no part of the United States, where the unoccupied lands have higher claims from soil, climate, intermixture of prairies and timbered lauds, position, andevery inducement to population, than the country above the Raft ; where the river becomes broad, deep, and navigable for steamboats, in moderate stages of water, for several hundred miles."— (F/infs Geo. and His.) The bottom land along the river is very fertile, producing corn, cotton, tobacco, and suo-ar cane in great abundance. If the navigation of this river could be permanently opened, the fertile lands that now lie in waste would soon be under cultivation ; and boats, laden with the rich products common to the "West and Southwest, would glide smoothly alon"- its reddened waters, to the great commercial depot of the South. The United States Government cut a channel through the raft, at an expense of $300,000, but another has since formed. Along the river, the trees grow very tall and thick ; in some places their branches nearly meet across the stream. Ianesport,is situated in the southwestern corner of the State of Arkansas, Sevier co., on Red River, which is here, and for some distance above and below, the northern boundary of the State of Texas. Fulton, about 100 miles below, by the meanders of the river, in Hempstead CO., Ark., is an important point, Conway, about 100 miles below, in Lafayette co.. Ark. Shreveport, about 90 miles below, is the capital of Caddo parish. La. It is finely located for business, being surrounded by an exceedingly fertile planting region, and about 30 miles below the great raft. Some 50,000 bales of cotton, and a very large number of cattle, from Texas, are annually shipped from this point. The town contains a large number of stores, several churches, and steam mills, a printing office, and a population of about 3000. Nachitoch.es, about 100 miles below, is the capital of Nachitoches parish, La. It was first settled by the French, under a grant to St. Dennis, who, in 1713, estabhshed a trading post here. In 1732, it was attacked by the Natchez Indians, who had been driven from their own country, after the great massacre of the 28th of November, 1729. After a hard fought battle, which lasted several hours, the Indians were repulsed, leaving ninety-two of their bravest warriors on the field. With this battle, ended the existence of the Nachez as a distinct nation. Those who were taken prisoners were conveyed to the West Indies. Nachitoches contains a printing office, a U. S. land office, and several churches, and has an active business. Population about 1500. '< Two or three leagues west of Nachitoches, is the ancient Spanish town of AD AYES. We can see no where in the United States so fair a sample of an ancient Spanish town, as this. The houses are of the construction of a hundred years ago. A little old church, with three or four bells, some of them cracked, 84 MONONGAHELA RIVER. and some coarse paintings, give the church an air in keeping with the town. The inhabitants are all Spanish." Alexandria, 80 miles below Nachitoches, and 150 from the entrance of Red river into the Mississippi, is the capital of Rapides parish, La. The location of the town is very beautiful. The surrounding country is quite level, producing cotton in great abundance. Population about 800. THE MONONGAHELA RIVER Rises in Randolph co.,Va., and after a northern course of .300 mile?, unites with the Alleghany at Pittsburg. It is navigable for steamboats as far as Brownsville, 40 miles above Pittsburg ; and for keelboats, near 200 miles from its mouth. Its principal branches are the Cheat and Youghiogheny rivers. Large quautitiesof excellent coal, are annually brought down this river. The navigation of this river has been greaily im- proved, and made permanent, by the erection of 8 or 10 substantial locks, between Browns- ville and Pittsburg. Clarksburg, county seat of Harrison co., Va., is situated on the west fork of the Monongahela, 70 miles from the Ohio river. There are excellent coal mines in the vicinity of this place. Iron and salt are also found to some extent. It is a flourishing place, and contains several large mercantile houses, 4 churches, 2 academies, and 2 printing offices. The North- Western Railroad, (a branch of the Baltimore and Ohio R. R.,) passes through the town.. Pop. about 1500. Fairmount, capital of Marion co., Va., is situated on the Monongahela, 22 miles north of Clarksburg. The surrounding country is hilly, and the soil pro- ductive. The forests are filled with excellent timber, and the earth is well stored with iron and coal, which are largely exported. Population about 1300. A splendid wire suspension bridge connects the town with Palatine, on which, the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad crosses. Palatine, Marion county, opposite Fairmount. It is a thriving village, containing 10 stores, several mills, &c. Population 600. Morgantown, county seat of Monongalia co., is a flourishing and wealthy village, situated on the Monongahela, about 60 miles south of Pittsburg. The town was laid out in 1785. It contains a number of stores and mills, 3 printing offices, 1 academy, and 4 churches, &c. The surrounding country is very fertile, and abounds in coal and iron. Population about 1000. New Geneva, Fayette co., Pa., is pleasantly situated on the right bank of the Monongahela, at the mouth of Georo;e's creek. It contains about 100 dwel- lings, a large steam flour mill, and a glass factory. Brownsville Fayette co., Pa., at the intersection of the National Road, and the Monongahela river. It occupies an important point as a place of business, enjoy- ing the advantages of the National Road, and the improved navigation of the river. The inexhaustible beds of coal in the vicinity, must eventually make it a great manufacturing place. The town contains a bank, 7 churches, several foundries, and machine shops, a number of mills, glass, and other fiictories, of various articles. There is a splendid bridge over the Monongahela, built in 1832, 630 feet long, and cost $50,000. Brownsville was incorporated in 1815, and now contains a population of about 5000. Monongahela City, Washington co., Pa., on the Monongahela, at the mouth of Pigeon creek. Iron, coal, and salt, abound in the surrounding country. This town is noted as being the place where the insurgents held a great meeting in 1794, during the Whisky Insurrection. Since the year 1830, it has increased rapidly. It contains 2 glass factories, 3 saw mills, 2 carding machines, and 6 churches. Population about 1800. Elizabeth, Alleghany co., Pa., is a beautifully located manufacturing town, on the Monongahela, 16 miles above Pittsburg. The town was laid out iu PENNSYLVANIA. tTilUburf 86 * THE ALLEGHANY RIVER. 1787. The completion of the Monongahela slack water navigation, has greatly in- creased the commercial advantages of this place. The town contains 4 churches, 3 ehip yards, several saw mills, and glass, woolen, and other manufactories. Pop. 2800. Braddock's Field, is in Alleghany county, on the banks of the Mononga- hela, 10 miles above Pittsburg. This field will long be remembered and visited, as it is the spot where Washiagton first displayed those high qualities of a man, and a general, which, in after life, entitled him to the respect of his country. Birmingliam, is a large manufacturing town, situated on the south side of the Monongahela, 1 mile from the center of Pittsburg. It has 3 churches, 1 market house, and several large glass factories, and iron foundries. A very large capital is employed here, in the various manufactories. Population, 4000. THE ALLEGHANY EIVER Rises in the northern part of Pennsylvania, and flows in a north-westerly direction through the southern part of New York, thence returning to Pennsylvania ; and after pursuing a general south-west direction of 400 miles, unites with the Monongahela at Pittsburg. The waters of this river are pure and clear, while those of the Monongahela, are colored" by the soil through which it flows. Vast quantities of lumber are sawed along this river, and floated in rafts to Pittsburg and towns below. It is navigable for keel boats, about 250 miles. Tlie country between the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, is the richest coal region in the Union. Olean, Cattaraugus co., N. Y., on the Alleghany river, at the junction of Olean creek. This is a flourishing village. The Genessee Valley Canal, which connects it with Rochester, terminates here. The line of the Erie Railroad, which connects New York and Dunkirk, on Lake Erie, passes through the place. The width of the Alleghany, is 20 rods, and its channel free from obstructions. It is estimated that more than 200,000,000 feet of lumber, of excellent quality, is annually sent to various places along the river. Population about 1000. Warren, county seat of Warren co.. Pa., on the right bank of the Alleg- hany river, and on the Sunbury and Erie Railroad, near the mouth of Conewango creek. During the spring, the town is alive with the bustle and activity of lumber merchants, preparing to depart for below, with their long train of rafts. Population about 1200. Franklin, county seat of Venango co., Pa., on the Alleghany, near the mouth of French creek. It was laid out in 1795, and contains the usual county buildings, and 6 churches. There are several large mills and furnaces in the vicinity, from which, the town derives an extensive trade. During high water, the Alleghany is navigable from Pittsburg to this place, a distance of 124 miles. The dams on French creek afford immense water-power for mills. There is a splendid bridge across the river here. Population about 1200. Kittanning, seat of justice of Armstrong co., Pa., on the left bank of the Alleghany, near the center of the county, was formerly the site of an old Indian town of the same name. It was laid out in 1804. It contains the county buildings, an academy, a female seminary, and several churches. Population 2100. Free port, Armstrong co., Pa , is a flourishing town on the right bank of the river, and Pennsylvania Canal. Many salt wells are now in successful operation. Freeport contains a number of woolen factories and mills. Pop. 1200. Sharpsburg, is pleasantly situated on the right bank of the Alleghany, 5 miles above Pittsburg. It is a flourishing village. It has several large ship yards, from which a number of steam and keel boats are annually launched. Population, about 2000. Lawrenceville, named in honor of Captain Lawrence, of the U. S. Navy, is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the Alleghany, 2 J miles above Pittsburg. In the center of the town, there is an U. S. Arsenal, at which are stored all sorts of military equipments, which are shipped west and south, as occasion OHIO— No. 3. S8 TEE OHIO RIVER. requires. The town contains 4 churches, and a lyceum. It was at this place General Washington, in 1753, came near losing his life, by attempting to cross the river on a raft, when it was filled with floating ice. Population 1800. Alleghany City, is situated on the right bank of the Alleghany river, opposite Pittsburg. This city is strictly a part of Pittsburg, though under a different corporation. Many of the business men of Pittsburg reside here. It has considerable commerce, and does a large manufacturing business ; emjdoying a heavy capital. The city contains 20 churches, of various denominations, 3 academies, 15 schools, and a population of 22,000. The ^yestern Theological Seminary, of the Presbyterian Church, was located bere, in 1827. This institution has connected with it, a workshop for manual labor, and a library of 6000 volumes. Behind Seminary hill, is the AVestern Penitentiary, an immense castle-built building, of the ancient Norman style. It was completed in 1827, at a cost of $183,092. THE OHIO EIVER Is formed by the junction of the AUeghaiiy,* and Monongahela at Pittsburg, in Lat. 40° 32' N., and after a meandering course of 1007 miles, enters the Missis- sippi in Lat. 37** north, 172 miles below St. Louis, and 990 miles above New Orleans. Tributary rivers and creeks, to the number of 75, empty into the Ohio, between Pittsburg and its mouth, the principal of which, are described in their proper places, in this work. And there are, at least, 100 considerable Islands, besides a great number of tow heads and sand bars. Some of these Islands are of exquisite beauty, covered with trees of the most beautiful foliage. No river in the world, rolls for so great a distance, such a uniform, smooth, "and placid current. Its banks are generally high, and precipitous, rising into bluffs, cliffs, and hills; sometimes to the height of 400 to 500 feet. Between these hills and the river, there is generally a strip of land, of unequal width, called bottom. These hills and bottoms, are mostly covered with a dense growth of gigantic forest trees, exhibiting a wild and picturesque grandeur. The scenery along the Ohio, although not possessing the savage grandeur of parts of the Mississippi, and Missouri, is of surpassing loveliness and beauty; especially in the spring, when the trees, vines, and other plants are putting forth their exube- rant foliage and blossoms. The graceful curves and bends of the river, exhibiting, in the distance, one range of hills, laped on to another, with beautifully rounded tops, and covered with the verdure of an almost unbroken forest, produce a series of splendid views rarely found. The Ohio river flows through a greater extent of rich Iron and Coal regions than any other river, probably, in the world. Building stone, of fine quality, and great variety, is found in exhaustible quantities, on and near its banks. And most of the tributaries, also, extend into and run through regions of country, containing vast mineral wealth. And for agricultural purposes, and timber in great variety, the extent of country drained, (more than 200,000 square miles) is unequaled in richness and fertility. The medial width of the Ohio, during ordinary stages of water, from Pittsburg to its mouth, is about half a mile ; but in some places it expands to a mile and more, and at other points, it contracts to hss than half a mile. The average range between high and low water, is nearly 50 feet, but during the highest floods, it has risen, at Cincinnati, to the height of 63 feet above low water mark. • " In tracing the Ohio to its source, we must regard the Alleghany as its proper con- tinuation, » * » » a boat may start with sufficient water, within seven miles of Lake Erie, in sight, sometimes, of the sails which whiten the approach to the harbor of Buffalo, and float securely down the Conewango, or Cassadaga, to the Alleghany, down the Alleghany to the Ohio, and thence uninterruptedly to the Gulf of Meixico." — EUet on tht Mississippi and Ohio rivers. Proctora , OHIO— No. 4 %^ 90 THE OHIO RIVER. The Ohio is generally navigable for steamers of the largest class, from Pitts- burg to its mouth, at all seasons, except for a short period during dry summer months, and sometimes a few weeks obstruction by ice, in severe winters. The amaller boats are never stopped running by low wator. Pittsburg, the principal city of Western Pennsylvania, is situated on a __■-, — —~=r-^:^. pointformedby the junc- piTTSBDRa. the world — surrounded by inexhaustible beds of iron, coal, &c., and with a navigation of about 50,000 miles, which gives it access to the richest and most fertile regions of the globe. Its early history is very interesting. The Governor of Canada (then under dominion of the French) having formed the design of connecting that province with Louisi- ana, by a line of defenses extending from the Lakes to the Mississippi, had estab- lished a post at the mouth of French creek, and was about to take possession of ''the Forks," as the site of Pittsburg was then called. Gov. Dinwiddle, of Virginia, dispatched George Washington, in October, 1753, to demand of the French commander his designs. On his route, he stopped at " the Forks," and, thinking it a proper place for the erection of a fort, communicated it to the Governor. The following spring, the Virginia Ohio Company commenced erect- ing fortifications on it. While engaged in doing so, on the 17th of April, 1754, Monsieur de Contricoeur, a French oflScer, arrived with 300 canoes, containing 1000 French and Indians, and 18 cannon, and compelled them to surrender. This was the commencement of the French and Indian wars, which continued 9 years. The French gave to the fort the name of Fort Duquesne, and occupied it until the 24th of November, 1758, when Gen. Forbes, of Pennsylvania, and Col. George Washington, having marched against them, they set fire to, and evacuated it. Gen. Forbes took possession the next day, and called it Fort Pitt, in honor of the Earl of Chatham. Little improvement was made until after the Revolution. In 1775, the number of houses did not exceed 30. In 1786, the first newspaper was printed here. After 1795, the city improved rapidly. In 1801, James Berthone & Co., commenced the building of ships, and in 3 years, 5 or 6 ships and schooners were finished and sent to sea. Pittsburg is now the great mart for the western part of New York, Virginia, and Pennsylvania. It is connected with Philadelphia and the Atlantic cities by the Pennsylvania Railroad, and, during the canal-boating season, by the Penn- gylvania Canal, for the carriage of heavy freight. The population of the city proper, is about 55,000. On the opposite side of the Alleghany, is Alleghany City, with a population of about 22,000, connected with Pittsburg by three bridges, a canal, and aqueduct. On the opposite side of the Monongahela, is Bir- mingham, also connected with the city by a splendid bridge. This place has a large number of manufactories, and is rapidly increasing. Adjoining it, is South Pittsburg. The district within 5 miles of the center of Pittsburg, embracing Alleghany city, Manchester, Birmingham, Sligo, Minersville, East Liberty, Scotts- field. South Pittsburg, &c., is estimated to contain a population of 175,000. The city suflfered very seriously in 1845, by one of the largest conflagrations that has been known in America. The fire broke out on the 11th of April, on the corner of Third and Market streets, and swept over a space of about fifty -six acres —twenty squares, and several parts of squares, consuming 1000 brick buildings, Big HockhocVing R 92 THE OHIO RIVER. many of them running from street to street. This was the most wealthy and business portion of the city. Many large stores, foundries, manufactories, dwell- ings, churches, hotels, and the bridge across the Monongahola were entirely con- sumed. The destruction of property was estimated at between $0,000,000 and $10,000,000. Pittsburg is a great manufacturing city. Iron casting, and iron mongery of every description, steam engines, cutlery, nails, glass, paper, Avire, steamboat building, and many other branches, arc carried on here to a large extent. It has about GO churches, a theological seminary, and a university, a merchants' exchange, a number of fine schools, a museum, a theater, and one of the finest court-houses in the United States. There is also an arsenal, consisting of an inclosed plot of 31 acres, containing a magazine of arms, a powder magazine, &c. The "Western Penitentiary of the State is also located here. The city is supplied with clear and wholesome water, raised from the Alleghany by steam power, to a reservoir on Grant's hill, 395 feet above the level of the Ohio. The basin is 11 feet deep, and will contain 1,000,000 gallons. The water is conducted through the city in iron pipes. Manchester, Pa., 2 miles below, is a flourishing manufacturing town. Pop- ulation about 2000. The United States Marine Hospital is just below this. Middleton, Pa., 9 miles below, is a small village in Alleghany co. Sewickleyville, Pa., 2 miles below. Population about 1000. A semin- ary for boys is located here. Economy, Pa., 6 miles below, is a settlement made by George Rapp, a Ger- man, who, with a number of his countrymen, of the religious order called Har- monists, first settled in Butler co.. Pa. From thence, they all removed to the "Wabash, and built the village of New Harmony. They numbered, then, about 800. New Harmony was purchased, in 1814, by Robert Owen, and Rapp and bis followers established themselves at Economy. The Harmonists hold their property in common. They have a number of good mills here, and are noted for their industry and sobriety. The population of Economy is about 1400. Mr. Rapp died in 1847, at a very advanced age. He was highly respected, and ably qualified for the station he occupied as the head of this community. Baden, Pa., a small village, 4 miles below. Freedom, Pa., is a small village, 2 miles below. Population about 600. Rochester, Pa., 4 miles below, at the mouth of Beaver river. The Ohio and Pennsylvania Railroad passes along the bank of the Ohio, from this point to Pittsburg. Population about 1200. Beaver, 1 mile below, in Beaver co.. Pa., at the mouth of Beaver river, is a thriving town, possessing great water-power advantages, derived from the Falls of Beaver. A branch of the Ohio Canal extends from Akron, in Summit county, Ohio, to the Beaver division of the Pennsylvania Canal, near Newcastle, in Mercer county — length, 88 miles. The Beaver division of the Pennsylvania Canal runs from Beaver to the head of slack-water navigation on the Shenango — • distance, 31 miles. Numerous mills and manufacturing establishments are in operation in and around Beaver, and several small villages are scattered along the river, within a short distance of it. Population about 2300. Jacobsburg, Pa., opposite Beaver. Georgetown, Pa., 14 miles below, and 1 mile above the Ohio line, is a small village. Population about 300. Glasgow, Pa., opposite Georgetown. Here is the terminus of the Sandy and Beaver Canal. Liverpool, 4 miles below, is a pleasant village in Columbiana co., 0. Pop- ulation about 2000. An extensive business is carried on here, in the manufac- ture of earthenware. , BcUevUIe I. 94 THE OHIO RIVER. ' Wells ville, 0., 4 miles below, in the same co., is the terminus of the Clevelaud and Pittsburg llailroad. This town was laid out by AVm. Wells, in 1824, and now contains a population of about 2000. The landing for steamboats is good. It is an important point for the shipment of produce — the surrounding country being fine for agricultural purposes, and the county the best in Ohio for wool-growing. Nearly opposite this place, the -well-known desperate battle between Adam Poe, his brother, and a party of Indians, is said to have taken place ; and 2 miles below, near the mouth of Great Yellow creek, the locality of tlie murder of the family of Logan, the Mingo Chief. Elliottsville, Jefferson co., 0., 8 miles below. Newburg, 0., 2 miles below, in the same co. Steubenville, 9 miles below, is the county seat of Jefferson cq., 0. Fort Steuben was erected here in 1789, on the spot now occupied by the Female Semin- ary. It was guarded by a company of troops commanded by Col. Beattie. At the period of Wayne's victory it was deserted. Steubenville is beautifully situated on an elevated plane, and contains a popu- lation of about 8000, 12 churches, 5 public, and 4 select schools, 1 male academy, and a splendid female seminary. In the town and vicinity, there are a number of large flouring mills, a paper mill, 5 woolen factories, one of them manufacturing into cloth 60000 pounds of wool annually, 2 cotton, and 2 glass manufactories, 3 iron foundries, a steam saw-mill, 2 breweries, and several manufac- tories of copperas in the vicinity. In the neighboring country, much attention is paid to the rearing of Merino and other superior breeds of sheep. Through a great portion of this region, there are inexhaustible beds of stone-coal. Three miles below Steubenville, was the former site of the old Mingo town, and residence of Logan, the celebrated Indian chief. It is now occupied as farms. The terminus of the Steubenville and Indiana Railroad is at Steubenville, and directly opposite, in Va., is that of the Stuehenville and Pittsburg Railroad. Wellsburg, 7 miles below, formerly called Charleston, is the county seat of Brooke co., Va., 373 miles from Richmond, the capital of the State. ^ It was laid out in 1789,- and is beautifully situated on an elevated bank of the river. It contains 6 churches, 2 white flint glass manufactories, 1 glass-cutting shop, 1 paper mill, 1 cotton factory, 5 large warehouses, 6 flouring mills, 1 woolen factory, 2 printing offices, 1 bank, and a population of about 3000. The manufacturing of earthen and stone ware is carried on here extensively. Extensive coal mines are worked in the vicinity. "Warrenton, sometimes called Warren, 7 miles below, in Jefferson co., 0., is a small village, containing about 300 inhabitants. Tiltonsville, 0., 3 miles below, in Jefferson co. Burlington, 0., 4 miles below, in Belmont co. Martinsville, 1 mile below, in the same co., is a flourishing village, con- taining 3 churches, and about 500 inhabitants. Wheeling, 1 mile below, is the county seat of Ohio co., Va. It is 261 miles from Richmond, and 351 from Washing- ton city. It lies on ;both sides of Wheeling ; creek, over which, there i is a beautiful stone bridge. j The city stands on a high '' bank of the river, sur- I rounded by bold hills, 'in which abundance of wHiitiHo. stone-coal is found. It Twelve Poto Cf. Amanda Furnace Landing, KENTUCKY. Bic ^ 110 THE OHIO RIVER. The Mechanics' Institute is a splendid building. It was erected by voluntary subscriptions of the citizens. The design of the institution is a noble one — that of improving the intel- lectual condition of tlie working man. Attached to tlie institution is a large library and reading-room. An annual fair, for the encouragement of tlie mechanical arts, is held iu the hall of the institute. The Masonic Halt is a fine edifice. It was erected by the society of Freemasons of Cincin- nati, and cockkne, a gallant and much CUMBERLAND RIVER— TENNESSEE RIVER. 127 respected French officer, -who fell in battle with the Chiokasaws. in 1736. A largo and beautiful prairie is in the vicinity, the soil of which is very productive. The seat of the territorial government was here until 1813. Vincennes contains a large, commodious city-hall, court-house, jail, and county offices, 6 or 8 churches, among theni a fine cathedral, St.Gabkikl College, a theological seminary, several manufactories, and a population of 2500. The Ohio &, Mississippi R. R., connecting Cincinnati with St. Louis, and Evansville A Vincennes, connecting with the Tcrre Haute cfe Vincennes road to Cliicago, cross each other here, thus opening through this city an outlet north, south, east, and west. Mount Carmel, 36 miles below, capital of Wabush c.o., 111., io bcautifullj situated, and a very thriving business place. Population abt)ut 1600. Graysville, 45 miles bolow. in White co., 111., is a flourishing village, with an active trade. Population about 650. — Niw Baltimore, 9 miles below, in Posey co., la. New Harmony, la., G miles below, New Baltimore, and IG miles from the nearest point of the Ohio, though about 60 miles from the mouth of the Wabash, following the meanders of the river. It is surrounded by a line, ricli, and heavily timbered country, interspersed with small, rich prairies. It was first settletl in 1814. by a religious sect of Germans, called Harmonites, under the guidance and control of George Rapp, in who.se name all the lands and property were held. They erected about 200 substantial buildings, planted vineyards and orchards, built mills and manufactories, anil were wonderfully suc- cessful in converting a wilderness into a tinelv cultivated plantation in a sliort time. They had even the luxury of a botanic garden, and a green-liouse. Their groat house of assem- blage, with its wings and appendages, was nearly 100 feet square. In 1^24, the celebrated Robert Owen, of New Lanark, Scotland, purchased the entire possession of the Harmonites, at $190,000, for the purpose of establishing a communit_v upon the plan of his "social system." The plan proved a failure, and was finally abandoned, A plank road extends from New Harmony to Mt. Vernon. The Population of New Harmony is now about 500. Chainville, 20 miles below, in same co., and 40 miles above the mouth of the Wabash. THE CUMBERLAND RIVER Rises in the Cumberland mountains, and interlocks with the liead waters of Clinch and Kentucky rivers ; flows southwesterly through Ky., more than 250 miles ; enters the State of Teun., and after a further meandering course of about 130 miles it readies Nashville in Lat. nearly 35 N. Thence flowing north-westerly 203 miles, it empties into the Ohio at Smithland. The Cumberland, the second largest "tributary of tlie Ohio, is about GOO miles in length, and drains a territory estimated at 18,000 square miles. It is navigable about 6 months in the year for steamboats as far as Nashville, and for flat and keel-boats some 300 ruiles further. This river passes through a country of remarkable fertility, some portions of it rich in iron ore, and, no doubt, otlier valuable minerals. The followitig towns are located on and near the banks of the Cumberland. Mt. Z'/ca.5aH<, Harlan co., Kv. — Barboursmlle, Knox co., Ky — WUliamshuri), Whitley co., Ky. (About 12 mile^ below this point the river has a perpendicular fall of 60 feet, which presents one of the most remarkable scenes in the Slate.) — CrefLsburg, Russel co., Ky. — BurksmUe, Cumberland co., Ky. — Celino, Mei/smllc, Gaitiesburo, and Granville, Jack-on' co., Tenn. — Carthage, Smith CO., Tenn. — Cairn, Sumner co., Tenn. — Lockpnrt and Rivrs, Wilson co., Tenn. Nashville, capital of the State of Tennessee, and seat of justice for Davidson CO., is pleasantly situated on the Cumberland river, 203 miles from its month. The city stands on a solid rock, elevated to the Iieightof from 50 to 175 feet above the level of llie river. The commerce of Nashville is very extensive, and is rapidly increasing. The principal article of export is cotton, of which large quantities are shipped to the southern markets. There are some fine public buildings and institutions of note in Nashville, among which, are the State-house, Penitentiary, Hospital for Lunatics, the Nashville University, a female Beminary, several schools, and a large number of churclies for tlie various denominations. The University was founded in 1806. The library contains 12,000 volumes. Besides the buildings mentioned, Nashville contains several manufacturing establish- ments, a large number of wholesale and retail stores of all kinds, and a population of about 20,000. The terminus of the Nashville & Chattanooga Railroad is here ; and railroads to other important points are constructing. •Clarksville, Montgomery co., Tenn., 55 miles below Nashville, is a thriving place, and has considerable trade. Population about 3000. Palmyra, 15 miles below, in same co., is a small village. Dover, oO miles below, capital of Stewart co., Tenn. Tobaccoport, a small village, 15 miles below, in same county. Canton, 16 miles below, in Trigg co., Ky. Population about 300. Rockcastle, a small village, 5 miles below, in same county. Eddyville, 17 miles below, (and 60 miles above Smithland, at the mouth of the Cumberland,) in Caldwell co., Ky., is a thriving village. Population about 700. 128 THE TENNESSEE RIVER. THE TENNESSEE RIVER, The largest tributary of the Ohio, and one of the largest rivers east of the Mississippi, ia formed by tlie union of the Clinch and Holston rivers, which rise in the Alleghany moun- tains of Virginia, and unite at Kingston, Tenn. It tlien takes a south-west course, travers- ing the nortliern part of Alabama, and then changing, flows in a northerly direction through Tennessee and Kentucky, and enters tlie Ohio at Paducah, in Latitude 37 north. The total length of this river from the head waters of the Clinch and Holston, is about 1200 miles ; being longer than the Ohio from Pittsburg to the moutli. The obstructions to navigation are few, and could easily be remedied. '1 he first obstruction is the muscle shoals at Flor- ence, Ala , about 280 miles from tlie month. Up to this point, steamboats can ascend at al- most any season of the year. Above tiiese shoals the navigation is entirely unobstructed for the distance of nearly TiOO miles. Tlie country through which the Tennessee flows, is mostly fertile, but is thinly inhabited. On the upper part of its course, it has mucli beautiful mountain and valley scenery. The area drained by this river and tributaries is estimated at upwaid of 4O,0OO square miles. The following towns are situated on or near its banks. Knoxville, on the Holston river, county scat of Knox co., ea.st Tenn., is a flourishing city. The situation is beautiful, elevated, and healthy, with a fine view of the surrounding country, and the mountainsSn the distance. Knoxville has manufacturing estab- lishments of various kinds, among the most important is that of Window Glass, which ia carried on extensively. It is, also, an important railroad center. It was laid out in 1794, and was the State capital till 1817. Population about 6000. Louisville, is a flourishing place, in Blount co., Tenn., about 20 miles by land, below Knoxville. Kingston, county seat of Roane co., Tenn., at the junction of the Holston and Clinch rivers, is a town of considerable; business. Washington, county seat of Rhea co., Tenn. Harrison, county seat of Hamilton co., Tenn. Iron and stone coal aro fcbundant near this place. Population about 500. Chattanooga, about 250 miles below Knoxville, in Hamilton co., Tenn., is a flourisliing town. The terminus of the Chattonooga Railroad is here. Stone coal and iron ore abound in the vicinity. Manufacturing is carried on to a considerable extent, and it is an important shipping point. Population about 4000. Whitesburg, is a small village of Madison co., Ala. T r i a n a , a small place, in same county. Decatur, Morgan co., Ala., is a thriving town, and is the eastern terminus of the Tuscumbiatfe Decatur Railroad. Muscle Shoals, a name given to the rapids in the Tenn. river, dividing the counties of Lauderdale and Lawrence, Ala. These rapids extend 20 miles, the fall being, in that distance, about 100 feet, and an impassable obstruction to navigation, except during the highest stages of water. Florence, county seat of Lauderdale co., Ala., is at the head of navigation below the rapids, and 280 miles from the mouth of the Tennessee. This is the principal ship- ping point for the produce of the surrounding country, with which it has a large and in- creasing trade. A fine bridge crosses the river here. There are several large cotton factories at and near Florence. Population about 2500. Tuscumbia, Franklin co., Ala., is 1 mile south of the river, and is the ■western terminus of the Tuscumbia & Decatur Railroad. Population about 2000. At Tuscumbia there is a very remarkable spring, which flows from a fissure in a limestone rock, and which is said to discharge 20,000 cubic ifeet of water per minute. Newport, a small place, in same county. Chickasaw, a thriving village, in same county. ^ Waterloo, Lauderdale co., Ala., ia a small village, about 30 miles below Florence. Savannah, capital of Hardin co., Tenn., is a place of considerable business, 35 miles below. Population about 1000. Carrollville,35 miles below, is a small village in Wayne co., Tenn. Sharonsville, a village in Perry co., Tenn. Perry ville, in same co., 20 miles below Carrollville. A large quantity of cotton is annually shipped from this point. Population about 300. Reynoldsburg, 50 miles below, in Humphreys oo., Tenn., 110 miles above the moulli of the Tennessee river. THE END. m '"^W"- iki^<.. :^i # ^- '^'=fA '"W-:- ^' \^jSer*-i ■■*\\\i>. -^, •aSCS. VvV!