tmrnutsaummmm mmtmmmmaBmii ttmMMMMOHMESM ' 31EDbb 0DD3 37bS b i JLI 21 '68 - ILl-JM-JTI 'W^, 'K. M \i r^ SPECIAL COLLECTIONS AND ARCHIVES W.E.B. DU BOfS L.'BRARY UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS AMHERST & Printed in U.S.A. .^' a-iZymy <%!' -/ ^^ <7 ■ December 1st, 1879. ) Geoi^ge Husmann, Esq. : Dear Sir. — Your kind letter just received. If you had written to me earlier I would have taken pleasure in furnishing you with some notes regarding grape culture aud wine making in Fresno. At this late hour I must restrict myself to the most preliminary statement, hoping it will not come too late if you should deem it of suffici- ent interest to be used in your forthcoming work on Grape Culture. California takes, already, a prominent place among grape-growing countries, and furnishes within its limited area so many different climates and localities, that nearly every kind or variety of grapes will flourish here. For example, in the hills of Sonoma we meet with the most perfect Riessling, producing wines of a light, delicate cast, and 200 miles further south in Fresno Co., the summer is both warm and long enough to produce such wines as Port and Sherry, which, according to such experts as Rev. I. Bleasdale, in Melbourne, equal some of the very finest Portuguese Avines. Only six or seven years ago, Fresno Co. was generally considered as a most barren waste, a desert in fact, where the dry, and during the summer, cracked soil, was thought to indicate the utmost poverty. Our plain extends 100 miles, at least, in every direction ; on the north side it is bordered by the large San Joaquin River, and on the east and on the south by an equally large stream. King's River. The fact that AND WINE MAKING. 163 water for irrigation was to be found so near at hand, caused several to suspect that the land was not altogether so worthless as generally believed. The Southern Pacific Railroad was drawn through the county, the water was taken out from the rivers and made to flow through the plains, and to-day, only six years after settlement, we pride ourselves on having the finest vineyards in the State, and the brightest prospects for the future. Grapes, as well as everything else, have to be grown with irrigation. The land must be leveled, and so pre- pared that it can be flooded whenever needed. The soil is very variable, but consists principally of three varie- ties. First, a red clay soil ; this is the best for grapes. Second, a white, ashy-alluvial soil, evidently made up most- ly of pumice stone, the original beds of which can yet be seen at the foot-hills ; this soil is much poorer both for grapes and other plants. Third, a sandy, yellow soil, poor in organic matters, and always occurring on elevated places ; this soil is worthless for grapes. My brother's vineyard consists, principally, of the first named soil. The first year the land had to be flooded six or seven times during the summer, to make the cut- tings grow, but now the whole country seems to be filled up with water, and one irrigation during the winter is enough. Cuttings planted directly in the vineyard last year, needed only two irrigations during the summer, and will after this need only one every winter. The first year we found water at a depth of 65 feet. Last summer we found it at a distance of 6 feet below the surface. We have found that the best way of starting a vineyard is to plant cuttings directly in the ground where they are to remain. Generally we plant the cuttings, say 2 feet deep, but for a trial, I planted some 5 feet deep, and the latter at one year old were several times larger than the for- mer, and bore quite a crop the first summer. Our soil is deep and loose, and free from stones. This enables us 164 AMEEICAN" GEAPE GEOWIKG to plant all the grapes with a crowbar, taking care to fill the holes well. Of course we plant all the cuttings straight up and down. Two men can, in this way, com- fortably plant 1,200 cuttings a day, and sometimes more. We plant the cuttings 8 by 8 feet apart, leaving a road at every twenty rows of vines. I have found that the best way is, to have the grapes planted in checks or squares, of say Sy^ acres, having a good solid bank of earth all round the same. Near to, and on these banks, no grapes should be planted, because they must be free to receive the prunings every winter, and which prunings must be burned on these banks every spring, so as to kill all the weeds and insects injurious to the grapes. In this way a good deal of hoeing is saved. I plow 4 inches deep and cultivate crossways, and keep cultivating the whole summer. Some parts of the vine- yard I cultivated as much as seventeen times last summer. In December, or as soon as the vintage is over, I begin to prune the vines. I cut off all the superfluous wood, taking care not to touch those canes which are to bear the next year's crop. Those I leave altogether until the middle of April, when I trim them back to two or three eyes as required. The reason for this is, that we nearly always have heavy frosts between the 6th and 12th of April, and if then the fruit buds have started they are sure to be lost. By leaving long canes, however, I manage to keep them dormant until after the frosty sea- son. Between February and April we have no frost. The trunk on our vines is generally kept to 2 feet, and many of the superior grapes rest on the ground and ma- ture there. We use neither stakes nor trellis. The grapes ripen generally in the middle of August, and the vintage can then begin. Some varieties, how- ever, have been known to be ripe in favorable years as early as the 4th of July. The percentage of sugar is gen- erally very large, average 14° to 16°, but sometimes as AND WINE MAKING. 165 high as 16° on Beaume's saccharometer, when at the same time pure water shows 2° on the same scale. The Eisen Vineyard comprises at present 160 acres, and every year about 20 Cicres are added, the bulk of the grapes being Zinnndel, Malvoisie, and Fahirzozos, the former two producing Claret and Port, the latter White Wine. The Zinfindel is here considered the best grape ; its color is excellent, and its flavor and acid splendid. The vines average 25 lbs. each of grapes, but as much as 50 lbs. have often been raised on certain varieties, such as Chasselas, Rose of Peru, and others. A peculiar trait of some grapes is that they do not color. The Rose of Peru, elsewhere considered one of the finest black grapes, loses its color here entirely, while the Zinfindel always retains its dark color. In Stockton, 150 miles from here, the contrary takes place. There the Rose of Peru is always of a dark, black color, while the Zinfindel turns nearly white. Besides the above varieties, we have on the place, in different quantities, nearly 100 varieties, mostly foreign, but it is also our intention to experiment with Ameri- can varieties, especially those of the cesiivalis and cor- difolia classes. Of the former we have a few hundred of Norton's Virginia ; they have grown enormously, but will not fruit before next year. The must we ferment in tanks containing 2,000 or 2,500 gallons, and the wine is kept in casks of the same; size. The brandy distilled from mash and wine is of a very high quality, according to Rev. Dr. Bleas- dale and other experts, is entirely fi'ee from fusel oil, and of a very fine natural bouquet. 166 AMEBICAN GEAPE GROWING CHAPTER XXXVII. VITICULTURE IN SONOMA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA. BY JULIUS DRESEL. When the first American emigrants came to California, they found vines already planted in many places, especi- ally around the religious colonies, or missions, established by the Jesuit Fathers. From this fact was derived the name. Mission grape, for that vigorous, but rather coarse, originally Spanish, red grape, which soon spread over the whole State, and has ever since provided the market with the California Hock, Claret, Port, and Angelica wines. Soon, however, the best European varieties from Hungary, Germany, and Fr^mce, were introduced, they grew equally well nearly everywhere, and were designated as ^'^For- eigns." Some of these foreign varieties are mainly raised for table use, as Flaming Tokay, Black Hamburg, Muscat of Alexandria, and many others, or to be turned into raisins ; but our best white wines are now principally made from the Eiessling, Gutedel (Chasselas), Muscatel, Burger, and the red, by preference, from the Zinfindel. As labor w^as too high to allow of the use of the hoe, our vineyards had to be cultivated by the plow, and con- sequently the vines were planted 8 feet, sometimes 6 feet, and lately 7 feet apart each way, allowing the single plow as well as a two-horse team to pass both. ways. The ground is laid out with the chain, every 7 feet being marked by a small, white stick, and the cuttings, or better rootlings, are planted ; these are 20 inches long and placed slantingly, in holes dug by the spade, about 2 feet deep. The stick is, two years later, replaced by a strong Stake 3'/, to 4 feet long, to which to tie the vine until the stem, commonly 18 inches to 2 feet high, is big AKD WIKE MAKIKG. 167 enough (after about six years) to support its fruit and umbrella-like foliage, by itself. Pruning is done during winter, but in the lower places as late as possible, to retard the starting of the vines, as there is danger of the morning frosts, which sometimes set in even as late as the 15th of May. We allow the grown vines from five to nine spurs of two eyes each, ac- cording to age and size, excepting the Riessling, which has been found to bear more if left with long spurs of four eyes and some short spurs besides. During spring the plowing, harrowing, and weeding with the cultivator, are done. After the beginning of May no more work is needed, as the constant sunshine will not permit any weeds to grow ; only about blossoming time, during the first weeks of June, Flowers of Sulphur is applied with bellows, as a preventive of or cure for mildew, which pre- vails in certain localities. Towards the end of September the grapes are ready for picking, and the harvest con- tinues through October, and may be finished as well in November, the sun shining all the while. Occasionally indeed, some rain falls in October, but very seldom any damage is done. Entire failures in the cro^), as well as great difference in the quality of the fruit, are unknown here ; but though there have been 50 pounds of grapes seen on one vine, and whole vineyards of the Mission grape averaging 36 pounds, it would not be a safe calculation to put the average yield of one vine at more than about half a gal- lon. The devastations of the Phylloxera, which will hereafter have to be taken into account, can be effectively met by grafting on Phylloxera proof American stock of Frost grape, or riparia species ; for instance, on Taylor and Elvira. The experiments in this direction, that have been tried in France, have also been successful here so far. Regarding the quality of the wines of California, they have been rated as too rich in alcohol, and rather deficient 168 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWrN'G in acid. They carry indeed, from 10 to 13 per cent of alcohol, but then there are, happily, those years when the grape, in its super-abundance of juice, develops less saccharine matter ; and besides we have, luckily, varieties which, even up to maturity, retain an agreeable acidity, and are invaluable not only in themselves, as Zinfindel, but also for cutting purposes, as Burger, to impart more acidity to the Mission, or its superiors, the Gutedel, Mus- catel, Riessling, and others. It is now over twenty years that the bulk of our vine- yards have been laid out, and ever since we had to con- tend with fearful odds to fairly establish this interesting branch of industry. A high rate of interest, high wages for white labor — -the Chinaman is one dollar a day — the unpopularity of the article and its ruinously low prices, all combined to make our progress a really thorny one. Notwithstanding this w^e may look back with satisfaction upon our struggle, for did we not come out victoriously at last ? The market for our wines is finally made, they have spread, they are appreciated, and in good demand all over the Union ; and considering their intrinsic value, and their scarcity, in comparison with the population of this country, I think we are justified in expecting now better times for our viticulture. Thereupon we act, the old pioneer is undismayed, new vineyards continue to be planted, and even before they have grown up, Americans will have improved so much in the knowledge of wines, that the quantity of all the precious wines California can raise will be utterly insufficient for the future consump- tion of our nation. Yes, this peculiar, temperance-fos- tering industry will yet grow to be a blessing for the people and — a splendid business after all. AND WINE MAKING. 169 CHAPTER XXXVIII. VITICULTURE IN NAPA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA. BY H. W. CKABB, OF OAKVILLE. The caltivation of the vine in this State was com- menced by the Mission Fathers three-quarters of a cen- tury ago, with a single Yariety. The history of its origin is not known, further than that it is identical with the Pisca vine I imported from Chili — one of the oldest varieties in cultivation there, and is the brandy grape of that coun- try, as the Mission grape has become of this. It is a vigorous grower and a good bearer, containing a high per cent of sugar, and a small degree of acid, and is well adapted for Sherry, Madeira, and Angelica wines, and for Brandy. The Riesslmg, White Pineau, and Chasselas stand at the head of the list for dry, white wines, on account of their lightness, fineness, and delicacy of flavor. Black Burgundy, Zmfindel, and Charboneau are our best varie- ties for Claret. The first makes a dark, full-bodied, and richly-flavored wine. The second has a fine raspberry flavor, but rather an excess of acid, and is a little light, both in body and color. The last one, like the Tinto, has but one characteristic color. Black Malvoisie is our best Port wine grape. The large White Muscatel makes the finest raisins, and the White Malaga the next best ; while the raisins of the Seedless Sultana are the ne 2^lus ultra for culinary purposes. In planting and grafting, only the cuttings of bearing canes are used, and are worth from $2 to 15 per thousand. In planting I plow the ground twice, sub-soiling it the las* time, then harrow well and roll it. Make a chain of S 170 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIXG No. 12 or 14 steel wire 165 feet long, and put on it a drop of solder every G'/^ feet, beginning fifteen inches from one end, which serves to make a loop for an iron pin 18 inches long, to stick in the ground to hold the chain. Square the ground, chain along one side, setting a small peg or stake at each drop on the chain, then stretch the chain at right angles across the end, and chain back from the other end of the chain, setting a i^eg at each droj^ as before, which marks out one block. Now stretch the chain across the block, and plant 24 rows, leaving the rows of pegs for avenues. Make a dibble out of a piece of ly^ inch gas pipe, by welding and sharpening one end and putting a pin near the other for the hands and one for the foot. Make a hole with this and insert the cutting and tighten it by shoving the dibble down by one side and pressing the ground against it. I use cuttings 16 inches long, leaving two buds above the surface. If rooted \ines are used, cut the roots back close to the stock. We set about 500 per day to the man, and 1,000 to the acre. From four to eight men work on a chain, and we can work from two to four chains or gangs on a block. This plan is very simple, speedy, and accurate, and any kind of help can do the work correctly ; it is equally well adapted to planting small fruits and trees after the holes are dug. We usually plant the last of March and first of April ; the loss is from 5 to 10 per cent. Among the various methods of grafting, I have had the best success by sawing off the vine from 4 to 6 inches below the surface of the ground, making a clean cut with a razor a little diagonally, and inserting one or two scions, covering the cleft or cut with a piece of cloth, and filling up with fine earth. The graft must be staked and kept well tied up the first season, and a fair crop of grapes may be expected the next. Grafting should be done here in February and March. Two men can graft about 100 vines per day. AND WINE MAKING. 171 I prune with, low heads and short spurs of two fruit buds each. Any variety that will not yield from four to six tons per acre is pruned in this manner: I leave from two to four canes of 2 feet each, and about as many short spurs of two buds each, for long canes the next year, when the long ones are to be entirely removed. The Eiessling, Muscatel, and some others, will yield twice as much by this method of pruning, as the other. Oc- casionally there are instances reported of a single variety, or a small vineyard, yielding 10, 12, 14, and even 20 tons on irrigated land, but such crops are a positive injury to both fruit and vine. My vineyard of 120 acres yielded in 1878, sy,^ tons per acre, on 30 acres of which the vines were only three years old, but this season, on account of cold rains, alternated by extreme heat, while the vines were in bloom, the same vineyard only had an average of 4 tons. The crop throughout the State is about one- fourth short. In 1876 the business dragged heavily, nearly bankrupt- ing numbers. Wines were in large stock and had to be sold to distillers and vinegar factories, at 10 to 15 cents per gallon. Savings banks refused to make loans on vineyard property, considering that vines added no value to the land whatever. Even many small vineyards were dug out. Mission grapes sold from $8 to $10 per ton. I could only get an offer of $13 per ton for a lot of 300 tons of grapes of choice foreign varieties, delivered at the cellar and payable in three, six, and nine months. There was no market for our wines. They were in bad repute, due mamly to adulterating processes which were carried on to a very great extent m the interest of importers, and for the purpose of crushing the wine and brandy manu- facture here. But since that time the business has steadily increased. The report of the Surveyor General of the State for the year 1876 gave 35,000 acres of vine- yards ; the next year 41,000 ; the next 77,000 ; and this 173 AMEBIC A]S^ GRAPE GROWIi^G year may be estimated at from 85,000 to 90,000 acres, making an average increase of about 35 per cent for the last four years. In 1876 we exported by sea and rail 1,115,000 gallons wine, and 59,000 gallons brandy. In 1878 the exports were, of wine, 1,812,000 gallons, and of brandy, 129,000 gallons ; and this year the estimates are 2,224,000 gallons of wine, and 160,000 gallons of brandy. The French wine imports have decreased from 7,000,000 gallons in 1872, to 2,486,000 in 1877. About an average of 30 per cent per year. This increase and reversion of trade may be attributed to our protective tariff, the rav- ages of the Phylloxera in Europe, and to the genuineness and acknowledged merit of our wines. I commenced making wine about the 20th of September, and did the crushing, stemming, and pumping by steam power. The crusher is an improvement on a French pattern, and is capable of crushing and stemming over 100 tons per day, doing the work in the most perfect manner. My pro- duct for the season is about 225,000 gallons, and that of the County, about 1,700,000 gallons. The last report of the Surveyor General gives the product of the State as 7,790,000 gallons, or about 50 per cent of the entire pro- duction of the United States. The crop of raisins cured annually is valued at from $60,000 to 180,000. This year's yield is probably 600 tons, or 60,000 boxes of 20 pounds each, worth at whole- sale from $1.50 to $2 per box. This branch of the grape interest is increasing rapidly. The present active demand and advance m price, with a partial failure of the crop in Spain, will give a lively stimulus to the business. There are now about $30,000,000 of capital invested here in the grape and w^me interest, and it gives employ- ment to more than 12,000 persons. Many new vineyards, and large additions to old ones, will be planted this year. In fact, I believe there will be as many planted this season as there were in the last AKD WINE MAKING. 173 three years. Grapes have steadily advanced in price since 1876, at the rate of $2 per ton each year, bringing the last season from $15 to 125 per ton, and large cellars of wine have been sold at 25 cents per gallon. The Phylloxera, as yet, is not found outside of Sonoma Co., where a few vineyards have been more or less in- jured. It does not make the rapid progress ascribed to it in Europe and, I believe, has not j^et appeared here in the winged form. I believe it is attributable to old age, bed-rock, or hard-pan near the surface, and exhausted soil, whereby the vine becomes impoverished, and in that condition it is just as natural for it to be attacked by some parasite or insect as an impoverished animal is to become covered with vermin. It is estimated that there are 40,000,000 acres of land in this State well adapted to viticulture, and the time is not far distant when the vineyard product will exceed all the other resources of the State combined. If the industry be not stifled by Congressional legisla- tion, whoever lives a half a century hence, will find the grapes of California in every city of the Union ; her rai- sins suppMng the whole Western Hemisphere ; her wines in every mart of the globe, and then, with her golden shores, her sunny clime, her vine-clad hills and plains, will California, indeed, be the Vineland of the world. 174 AMEBIC Alf GEAPE GEOWIiJG CHAPTER XXXIX. GRAPE CULTURE IN MARYLAND. -CASHIN'S TRELLISES. BY T. D. CASHIN, HAGERSTOWN, MD. The following is by T. D. Cashin, an experienced fruit grower and nurseryman, who, in a letter dated February 5th, 1880, writes : *^ My grand object is to get a superior gi-ape for market alone that will be free from rot. One of our would-be scientific men here says, that all seedlings of Taylor will inherit its defect of failing to fertilize its fruit, but of course you are more capable of judging in that matter than a mere theorist. In fact, the grape-growers of Mis- souri are doing more for the future and permanence of American grape-culture, than all others in the United States combined. Our Eastern people are all following the old beaten track — Lalrusca and its hybrids, leading to the same final result — failure ; at least that is my opinion after 14 years of study and experience. I mean to try the Amber in the spring. I have an excellent ri- paria {cordifoUa) seedling of my own ; in quality it is better than Elvira, but not so large." In a letter dated February 16th, he writes as follows : " Dear Sir — Your letter and the picture of the Amber grape reached me a few days ago. Thanks for the in- formation given in regard to varieties that I am interested in. For the past three years I have been searching for such a grape as the Amber ; the bunch is elegant, and must be, I am sure, much finer in Nature's colors than as represented in the plate. "1 certainly agree with you that the grape-growers in Missouri who are endeavoring to improve the riparia AND WIJfE MAKIJTG. 175 (cordtfoUa) species, are working on the right basis, and hope that they will be amply rewarded for the time, patience, and study required in the undertaking. '' Of late years I have been experimenting and observing as to the proper methods of training vines of this class, taking Clinton as the subject to work upon, and find that the form of an arbor or canopy is the most successful, as it approaches more nearly to the growth of the vine in its natural state. I have two methods, one for vines planted 10 feet or more apart, the other for those at a lesser distance. The first may be called the *' Horizontal Spiral " method, the other ^^ Horizontal Zig-Zag," long- arm and spur-pruning is followed in both ; they include the principle of retarding tlie flow of sap towards the top of the vine, thereby, to a great extent, equalizing the dis- tribution of fruit and Avood-forming material. The trel- lises are durable and inexpensive, and do away with near- ly all the labor of tying. I am very glad indeed if you have found anything in my former brief letter that may be of interest to others, and if you think that drawings of the above named methods of training might possibly be useful additions to your book, I shall be happy to fur- nish them. '' I have, so far, succeeded in raising only two vines from the original riparia seedling, but shall take pleasure in sending you one of them early in the spring for trial. I have named it the ''Golden Delaware," and am certain that it will compare favorably with its namesake. The leaf is strong and folds in a peculiar manner, and the fruit is exceedingly delicate and refined — assuming a beautiful, golden color when ripe." In compliance with a request for a description of the methods of training referred to in the foregoing letter, Mr. Cash in furnishes the following, accompanied by sketches from which the engravings are made : 176 AMEEICAN GRAPE GEOWING cashin's trellises. The metliods of training shown in the illustrations (figs. 26 and 27) have many advantages over those com- monly used by grape-growers, and are well adapted to our strong growing native vines, especially those of the cordifoUa or riparia species. Some of the advantages may be named as follows : Cheapness, simplicity, and a great saving in the labor of tying, which is almost done away Avith except after intervals of years when the arms are renewed, then ties are necessary to hold the arms in place for the first season, after which they retain the form given them. Tying is an important item, as many grape-growers know to their cost. The horizontal position of the vine and droopmg form which the fruiting canes assume, are in accord with the natural habit of the grape-vine. This and the check given to the flow of sap towards the top of the vine by winding the arms around poles, as in figure 26, or bend- ing them in a serpentine form, as in figure 27, has the effect of more evenly distributing wood-producing and fruit-forming material, thereby keeping up a proper bal- ance between the top and base of the vine. In both methods the fruit hangs under the foliage and is shaded from the glare and heat of the sun. Grapes protected in this manner have a much finer bloom than when exposed. The canes are pruned to spurs of two or three buds. Summer-pruning is not resorted to except to repress the overgrowth of canes to the end that there may be a free circulation of air under the vines ; though there can be no doubt that a judicious summer-pruning would be beneficial. What I have called the ^' Horizontal Spiral " method, is shown in figure 26. The trellis is formed of locust stakes sy.^ feet long, Sy^ inches thick, and are set to a depth of 18 inches, leaving them 4 feet high. Round A^B WINE MAKING. 177 chestnut poles of nearly the same thickness as the stakes are nailed to the top of them, the ends of the poles being made to lap, one upon the other. This method can be used to advantage in vineyards where the vines are Fig. 26.— HORIRONTAL SPIRAL METHOD. planted closely, say from 5 to 8 feet apart in the rows ; 8 feet would be the better distance, the rows being 7 feet apart. The winding of the arm allows an increase in its length of about one-third. The '' Horizontal Zig-Zag method is shown in figure -HORIZONTAL ZIG-ZAG METHOD. Fig. 27. 27 ; this is intended for strong-growing varieties. The vines may*be planted from 9 to 12 feet apart in the rows, which may be 9 feet apart. In this method the bending of the arms allow an increase in their length of about 178 AMERICAJ^ GRAPE GROWIKG two-thirds of the space alloted to them ; for instance, if the distance between the vines in the row were 9 feet, the arms would be 15 feet in length. The stakes are the same as in figure 26, but instead of poles, pieces of 2 by 4- inch scantling 16 inches long are nailed crosswise on the top of each stake. Two wires (No. 10) rest on the cross- pieces 14 inches apart, resembling the arrangement of telegraph wires, and are fastened with small staples. At the end of the rows the Avires are attached to iron pins sunk in larger cross-pieces, which are spiked to posts ; the heads of these pins are square, so tLat the wires can be tightened or loosened as required, with a wrench. In starting a vineyard I allow the vines to grow at will during the first season, keeping the ground loose and free from weeds ; in the fall or early winter the vines are cut back, leaving but two canes shortened to two buds each. If there is but one really strong cane, it is pruned to three buds, and the other shoofcs on the vine cut away al- together. In the spring of the second year the stakes are put in, and only three canes to each vine allowed to grow. When the two stronger ones have attained a length of 2 feet, the weaker cane is removed, and the others care- fully tied to the stake with cotton cloth. The ends of these are pinched when they have reached the hight of the stake (4 feet), and then whatever laterals that may appear are allowed to grow unchecked. The fall-pruning consists of merely cutting off the laterals. Then, or early in the following spring, the trellis is completed. During the third season a few bunches of fruit are suffered to remain on each vine, from three to six, accord- ing to the strength of growth, but none whatever on weak vines, and all shoots bearing fruit are pinched to three joints beyond the bunches. The other shoots are removed, excepting the topmost one, on each cane ; these are left to grow unchecked, and, m order that they may make a strong growth, not allowed to bear fruit this season. AND WII^E MAKING. 179 « These are the arms, and as they extend are trained hori- zontally — to the right and left of the vine along the poles or wires as the case may be, and tied with some soft ma- terial. In the fall, or before March 1st of the fourth year, the shoots on the lower part of the yine are all cut off ; the arms are trimmed of weak or unripe w^ood, and then, as in figure 26, they are wound around the poles, one to the right, the other to the left of the vine, and the tips fas- tened to the pole with double-pointed carpet tacks. Arms from the next vines in the row are wound on the same poles, between and following the same curves as the first, and fastened in like manner, so that there will be two arms in each space between the vines. Should an arm fail to gain the length required to fill the space allotted to it, it can be lengthened the same season by terminal shoots. In figure 27 the arms are bent to and fro in a zig-zag manner, and rest on top of the wires ; the bends or elbows are extended about 2^/2 inches beyond the wires on either side ; the bends are formed in succession, and tied to the wire at each point where they rest upon it, making two ties at each bend. The arms are thus kept in place for the first season of their training, after which they retain the form given them, and are held m position by the shoots of new wood growing under and over the wires. Two arms are used in the same space if desired, but they should be bent to cross each other in opposite direc- tions, instead of following the same curve. In either method the arms should be renewed after intervals of five or six years. This is done by cutting back one arm on each vine to its lowest shoot, and when a new arm has grown from this, the other arm is cut back and renewed in like manner. 180 AMEKICAK GRAPE GROWING CHAPTER XL. GRAPE CULTURE IN MISSOURI. BY THE HON. FR. MUENCH. {Extract from a Letter written for the Am. Wine aiid Grape Grower.) '' 1. I must wonder, that still the Herbemont, Lenoir, Devereux, Elsinburg, Eumelan, Norton, Oynthiana, Cun- ningham, Hermann, Louisiana, Humboldt, Neosho, etc., are thrown together as belonging to the mstivalis class. In truth, there is as much essential difference between some of those vines as between the Clinton and Concords. A certam class of vines to which the Herbemont, Lenoir, Cunningham, Devereux, Rulander, Louisiana, and their seedlings, and probably the Delaware belong, and which are by some named southern cBstivalis, are in my * School for American Grape Culture ' designated as ' vimfera- like ' for the following reasons : Some of them (as the Louisiana and Rulander) are ostensibly or undoubtedly of European origin — others may be descended from the seeds of imported vines (as the Delaware) found grow- ing wild in the woods near the place where once Joseph Bonaparte lived, and most similar to the well-known Traminer which he had tried to cultivate on his villa ; others may first have been planted by the Huguenots in South Carolina and elsewhere, and disseminated by birds ; at any rate, these vines, materially differing from all our indigenous varieties, are so nearly related to the Vitis vmifera, that, for instance, visiting the vineyards near Zurich, m Switzerland (in 1859), I could hardly dis- tinguish the vines growing there from our own Herbe- mont. Thus we have here a quite peculiar class of vines not to be amalgamated with the true cBshvalis or any other grape family. AKD WINE MAKING. 181 '' 2. Most surely are the cestivalis vines — in combina- tion with a number of Taylor seedlings — best suited for the vast region extending between the 40th and 36th de- gree of latitude, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ; north of this region is the true home of the Labrusca vines and the earlier Taylor seedlings (Noah, Black Pearl, etc. ), while south of it the Scuppernong and some vinifera- like, and also cBstivalis vines thrive best. Chiefly the middle portion of the Mississippi Valley (Missouri, Ar- kansas, etc.) is apt to produce from our best (Bstivalis vines dark wines of the highest excellence. '^3. All Wlq cestivalis \m.e^ tried by me are not only ^Phylloxera-proof,' but also rot-proof, except in the most unfavorable seasons in unsuitable positions, and by care- less and unreasonable treatment. '^4. As a general thing the berries of the (Bstivalis grapes are destitute of pulp, but there are several inferior as well as most highly valuable. Some (Bstivalis vines are very pulpy, for instance, the Far West (first grown by me from a scion plucked in the original forests of Newton Co., in S. W. Missouri), which yields a red wine, declared by connoisseurs to be of the finest flavor and aroma, quite new, and as yet unsurpassed. *^5. It is lost labor to try to propagate some of the (Bstivalis vines from cuttings, or even in propagating houses, such as Neosho, Far West, and the Arkansas va- rieties, the wood of which is as hard as white-thorn (which fits them to withstand our variable climate and the whims of our weather); they must be propagated either by grafting (they will not grow well on Ldbrusca roots) or by very careful layering. ^^ 6. The Elsinburg I would rather class among the cordifolias, it being apparently near akin to the Clinton. ^^ 7. The Ives, Perkins, and the like, I do not consider 182 AMEBIC A K GRAPE GROWING worth cultivating, while with us the noble Cynthiana and Neosho do remarkably well, to which other highly valuable Western varieties will soon be added." CHAPTER XLI. GRAPE CULTURE NEAR CHATTANOOGA, TENN. {From the Chattanooga Times.) It will be, perhaps, a little surprising to some when the real status and future of grape-growing in this sec- tion is known. We have taken some pains to investi- gate this matter, and although our figures may not be precisely right, they are still approximately correct. There are now 150 acres of land around Chattanooga within a radius of five miles, entirely devoted to grape- culture. All of this is now m bearing, but the next sea- son tJie prospect is that much more of this land will be put into grape cultivation. Seventy acres are owned by Stanley & Rickey, the rest is owned by parties in small lots. This year the grapes, as a general rule, are much finer than usual, but there will be only about half a crop, caused by the unusual cold spring. In the last si^ years there has been no failure at all in the crop, and all but one were fair. The crop this season will amount to about 200,000 pounds. An acre, when trellised well, will, on an average, yield about 4,000 pounds, and where there are only poles, about 2,000 pounds. The average price m the Xorthern market the year around is about ten cents ; therefore, this year's grape crop will bring about 120,000 in this section. At present the high express rates and frequent trans- AND WIKE MAKIKG. 183 fers reduce the net amount received by the growers to a small margin, but when the 0. S. R. R. is completed, all of this will be obviated, and the profits will be tripled or even quadrupled. In view of this there will be heavy outlays by all growers this winter, and next summer the largest stock ever grown here can be ex- pected. The large majority of growers ship to Cincin- nati, but Stanley & Rickey send their grapes to Chicago alone. In illustration of the quality of the grapes grown in this section, we will cite one instance : On August 7, Southern Illinois grapes sold in Chicago at 5 cents per pound, on the same day Chattanooga grapes brought 10 cents. The shipment from this point sometimes is very large ; Stanley & Rickey have been known to ship in one day as high as 4,000 pounds. They employ, at times, as high as thirty men in their vineyard. A small portion gather the crops, a larger number are busily employed carefully assorting and picking. In a shipment no over-ripe or rotten grape can remain in a cluster, or the whole lot will be spoiled. The largest and finest clus- ters raised this season have been by the Steele Bros., who ship to Cincinnati. In the construction of stands great care must be taken. Sassafras leaves are strewed over the bottom of the drawer, then the grapes are packed very tightly, when they are covered with another layer of leaves, and are thereby kept in a thoroughly fresh condition. Almost all our grapes are raised on Missionary Ridge. Nearly every cultivated field between Rossville and the East Tennessee, Virginia, and Georgia Railroad tunnel has a vineyard of some size. This country, with its numerous hills, is specially adapted to the culture of grapes, and after rates reasonably profitable to the grower can be obtained on the railroads, this section will become one of the most important grape-growing 184 AMEKICAIT GRAPE GROWIl^G localities in the country. It is a lucrative and pleasant investment, and from present appearances we may ex- claim before long, with perfect justicCj of the '^^dne clad hills " of Hamilton County. CHAPTER XLIL WHITE ELK VINEYARDS, IOWA. {From tfie America?! Wine and Qrape Grower for Nov., 1879.) These vineyards are situated on the west bank of the Mississippi river, in the south-east comer of the State of Iowa, and in and near the city of Keokuk. The wines made there are chiefly Catawba, Concord, Ives, Norton's Virginia, Delaware, Clinton, lona, and Alvey, and have some reputation in the East, but are better known in the West and South. They are remarkable for the reason that they are the pure juice of the grapes whose names they bear, being neither mingled nor doctored, and are brought to maturity by the Pas- teur method, which gives the wines the advantage of a year or more in ripening them for market. The vineyards were established some ten or twelve years ago by the Hon. Hiram Barney, of New York, for- merly Collector under President Lincoln, and now em- brace a little less than 100 acres in vines. The vintage product is from 15,000 to 30,000 gallons, and is increas- ing annually. Mr. Barney, in order to secure the future permanence of the vineyards after he has passed away, has recently transferred their ownership to a corpora- tion known as the " White Elk Vineyard Company," AND WINE MAKING. 185 in which he is the principal stockholder, with capital stock fixed at $50,000 (although they have cost over $100,000). The officers are : Hon. John H. Craig, President ; Gen. Louis T. Barney, Vice-President ; and Hon. Ed- ward Jaeger, Secretary and Treasurer. The Directors are, in addition to the above : Mr. Hambden Buel and Hon. Hiram Barney. The wealth and position of these gentlemen, in ad- dition to the good repute in which the wines are al- ready held, ought to, and no doubt will, insure the company the desired measure of success. The origin of the name ^MYhiteElk" was somewhat romantic and is as follows : In 1841, Mr. Barney, then a young limb of the law, visited the territory in behalf of certain clients who had invested largely in the claims of the half-breeds of the Sac and Fox tribes of Indians, then residing on the reservations of that name in the southern part of the territory, having about that time obtained a decree of the court settling the title. Late in the month of October, he, with a party of friends and an interpreter, started across the country in carriages and on horseback to the Indian encampment, some 100 miles beyond the lines of civilized habitations ; arriving there they were received with great ceremony, and treated with kingly hospitality by Keokuk the then King of the united Sac and Fox tribes, and also by all the lesser chiefs, in imitatioli of the head one. Mr. Barney and his party remained two or three days and then prepared to return to their homes beyond the Mississippi, but before doing so Mr. Barney thought it worth his while for certain reasons to be adopted into the tribe, and sought Keokuk for the purpose of having the ceremony performed, but not finding him at the moment concluded to take his departure as he came, a simple white man. But the fates had ordered otherwise, for they had proceeded scarcely a^mile on their journey before they were 186 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING intercepted by Na-She-Kus-Kuk, Chief of the Sac tribe, with fifty mounted Indians, in full war paint and feathers, all charging at full speed. The young chief, who was a magnificent specimen of the red man, standing 6 feet, rode up and made known the fact that he had been sent by Keokuk to perform the ceremony of adoption for his brother the pale face. Mr. Barney having expressed his willingness, Na-She-Kus-Kuk raising his arm gracefully, slowly, and with emphasis, pronounced the words Wa-Be- Me-Shi-Wa, or White Elk, which was the tribal name given to Mr. Barney ; all the Indians composing the caval- cade, and a multitude of women and children who had by this time gathered around, took up the word and shouted it over and over again, while the horsemen wheeled and disappeared as quickly as they came. And thus Mr. Barney became the Sac Chief, "• White Elk," which name he bestowed upon his vineyards as a memorial of this singular event. CHAPTER XLIII. THE PHYLLOXERA PROBLEM. {From the Pacific Rural Press.) Julius Dresel, of Sonoma, Cal., writes to the ^/^^ con- cerning the danger of the Phylloxera, and what he is do- ing to guard against it, as follows : Something must be done soon, or shall we continue calmly to stand by and see the vineyards, in the neighborhood of Sonoma for in- stance, in increasing proportions steadily changing into dead land ? In vain I look around, and nowhere can I see any serious steps taken to remedy the fearful evil that is upon us. But how can we afford to remain inac- tive for another season ! Forsooth, then, we had better AN^D WIKE MAKIN"G. 187 prepare ourselves at once to see the 100,000 vines already destroyed, amount to millions. Allow me, therefore, to give you here, my experience and my opinion as to the best means to reconquer the lost ground ; for as to averting the destroyer, I think we had better dispense with the application of any chem- ical preventive. The great prize offered by France for such an invention has not yet been won ; and even if it had been, how could we employ, and perhaps more than once, a chemical preparation on stretches of 100 acres, to a depth of 4 feet ? And where is the money to come from ? And neither is there any re- liance to be put on the power of resistance of the younger vines, or on the richness of the soil. My own eyes witnessed the Phylloxera crawling on its victims entirely regardless of individual, young or old, luxuri- ous or lean ; all Asiatic varieties of the Vitis vi7iifera, that is to say, every grapevine imported from Europe, has to succumb to the relentless double sting of these myriads of lice — the roots rot ! No more is manuring, how much soever to be recommended in other respects, a preservative against the inroads of these insects. As the rings grow wider and wider from the spot where the stone has fallen into the water, be it deep or shal- low, so the circle of devastation of the Phylloxera ex- pands from the first point of infection toward the out- skirts over rich and poor land, with scarcely any differ- ence ; the strong and the weak have to perish alike. In three years the work is done. In the first you will not remark much, excepting perhaps a fading of color on the leaves ; in the second, you see the branches no longer hanging down in sweeping boughs, but standing upright, shortened and stiff, with a yellow foliage early in fall ; in the third, their appearance is entirely crip- pled and shorn ; they look like old willow stumps, and the horses have to tear them out to be burned. 188 AMEEICAJT GRAPE GROWING Under these circumstances, I followed the precedent of the French, who, for sometime, have made experi- ments with, and ordered Phylloxera-proof vines from Missouri in still increasing quantities. I planted Elvira and Taylor, both white varieties of the riparia grape, and cordifolia, a wild, red variety of the same family, which has obtained the preference up to this time. Previously I grafted the cuttings indiscriminately with Gutedel, Eiessling, Zinfindel, etc., and I see them grow with their grafts just as well as ours ; also those that were transferred to the nursery, there to form roots for the next season. Further my own experience does not go, but I put entire confidence in this way to help us out of the scratch, supported as I am not only by the success of the French, as stated in the highly interest- ing articles of Wetmore, which appeared in the Alta^ but also by the microscopic examinations of F. Hecker of Belleville, who found the fibre of the varieties of the Frost Grape and the riparia so hard and tough that the tiny trunk of the Phylloxera can not well penetrate it. Catawba, Isabella, and many other varieties formerly in use, have been relinquished as not reliable in the same degree, or for other objections. Here, then, we have a sufficient reason to make use of the above given sorts, as resisting the inroads of the Phylloxera, to make up for losses with new plantations. I cannot help wondering at those who still continue to trust the Asiatic vines, even for new extensions, when they stand surrounded by the irrepressible hosts of their arch-enemies. N'o doubt they believe that something fortunate will yet turn up against the Phyl- loxera. Let us rather be watchful and active — all who are weary and burdened with vineyards — lest we may fall under an impending mortgage forecl^^sure. My mode of proceeding is this : I put an exactly- fitting graft of two eyes on the cuttings, having them Al^B WINE MAKIJS^G. 189 first shortened for the uppermost knot, and winding around it, all along the graft-cut, a suitable twine. I have not used any wax, which, perhaps, might do well as a coating. For the manner of grafting, every one may choose the cut he likes best, and thinks suited to answer the purpose. Good care should be taken to prevent the cuttings from getting dry, by keeping them covered with moist soil ; sand would be preferable. In this wise one can finish about 175 grafts in a day, sit- ting snugly at home ; some years later, grafting on the stem may cost three times as much work. 1 leave it to the judgment of my fellow vine-growers, whether they would not rather plant the Missouri vines first in the nursery, there to take root, and graft afterward, before transferring to the vineyard. If orders are given during October, the vines will probably be sent in January, and the planting should be done in March at the latest. Do not expect to get as vigorous and many-eyed cuttings as we are wont to get here ; most of the slips are thin and long-linked, but they grow all the same. About the stems which these Missouri vines Avill make, I cannot speak from experience, but I have not heard any complaints from France ; besides, I am inclined to assume that our genial climate will improve their strength, as it did for the Gutedel, and others. 190 AMERICAN GEAPE GROWING CHAPTER XLIV. EGG HARBOR WINES— EARLY WINTER GRAPE— COST OF A VINEYARD. EGG HARBOR WINES. The following is extracted from an account in the *^ American Wme and Grape Grower," November, 1879, of a visit to Egg Harbor, N. J. With a view to make their wines better known, the owners of the leading vine- yards, at Egg Harbor, some years ago inaugurated an annual reception, to which prominent citizens of Phila- delj^hia and others are invited. On this occasion " The representative wine-growers who were visited spared no pains to throw open every source of informa- tion and provide all possible means of comfort and plea- sure for the visitors. After passing upon the well-known merits of the white ' Martha ' and red wines of J. Ful- ler, the party visited Heil's vineyards, where similar wines were tested. Capt. Saalman's favorite, ' Black Rose,' next underwent the trial of the connoisseurs, and the party then visited the leading wine-grower of the place, Julius Hincke, prominent as the man who placed his celebrated ' lohlink ' and ' Franklin ' wines in com- petion with those of France and the rest of the world at the Paris Exhibition. These wines took a medal there, as they had previously done at the Centennial. ^' After an address of w^elcome by Mr. Hincke, ex-Presi- dent Lucas took occasion to express his gratification over the fact that these wines met with high favor, not only in New York and the other principal cities of America, but also in England and on the European continent. They were superior, he said, to Burgundy wine, and had already raised New Jersey to a place among the leading AXD Wliq^E MAKING. 191 wine-growing districts of the world. Count D'Assi coin- cided with Mr. Lucas, and said he was forced to admit that the wine-growing lands along the Camden and At- lantic Railroad were a successful rival even of the soil from which had come the Falerian that Horace had im- mortalized. Equally favorable comments were made by a number of gentlemen at the Claret and Catawba vaults of T. H. Bannihr." NOTE ON THE EARLY WINTER GRAPE. BY SAM. MILLEK, BLUFFTON, MO. This grape, grown from seed by John Burr, of Leaven- worth, Kansas, is certainly the best of the early grapes that have yet come to my notice. Bunch medium to large ; berry size of Isabella, and has the same oblong form, black, with a handsome bloom ; pulp soft and sweet, as well as rich, skin thin. It is entirely free from the foxiness of its parent, the Concord. The vine is vigorous, foliage healthy, and immensely productive. He has sent me the fruit three years in succession, and it has improved every year. The past season it bore here with me, and was quite a prize. It ripens about a week earlier than Hartford, and will not only rank high as a table grape, but will also make an excellent wine, if my judgment is worth anything. Mr. B. has also a white variety, fruit of which he sent me, which is quite early, and will give the Lady a hard race, as it is entirely free from foxiness. COST OF ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD. This must, of course, vary greatly with the locality, price of labor, manner of preparing the soil, variety planted, manner of training, etc. I give below the cost of an acre in our locality, (Boone Co., Mo.) on ordinary 192 AMERICAls^ GRAPE GROWING soil, and with no unusual obstructions, such as stones, stumps, etc. : Plowing and sub-soiling, three teams $ 7 00 650 Elvira (or Goethe) plants, S5 per 100 32 50 Planting 5 00 Cultivating 2 vears 30 00 300 Trellis Posts, 8 cts 24 00 500 lbs. No. 12 Wire, 7 cts. per lb 35 00 Setting Posts and stretching wire 5 00 Total $138 50 The cost will vary with the varieties. — If Concord are taken, they can be had for 11.50 per 100 ; Norton's Vir- ginia or Cynthiana will cost from 18 to 115 per 100. Thus, the cost may vary from 1120 to $200 per acre. The above is for a trellis of three wires ; for two it will be about $11 to $12 less. The distance is for vines set 6 X 10 or 8 X 8, with a row in the center left out for a road. The returns will vary so much with the locality, and with the season, that it would be useless to speculate upon them here. Every planter can form his own estimate. It will depend upon the price that can be obtained for the grapes or the wine, and many other circumstances which cannot be f oreceen m a work like this, which is merely intented to give an outline of the necessary oj)erations. I have aimed to gather facts from different sections of the country, from eminent grape-growers, and include them in this little book. It will illustrate the different metJiods and views in different sections, together with some observations made on a recent Eastern trip, and I trust that this Second Part will not be the least interest- ing portion of the work. To all who have thus con- tributed I tender my grateful acknowledgments, as well as for the many courtesies and friendly greetings I received from brother grape-growers, which made me feel again and cgam that there is a free-masonry among members of our profession, which makes us feel at home wherever we clasp the hand of a follower of our gentle craft. PART III. AMERICAN WINE MAKING. (193) CHAPTER XLV. WINE MAKING. It can hardly be expected, in a book which only aims to be the guide of the average cultivator, and to render grape growing and wine making easy for the masses, that I should enter into the secrets of the wine dealer and chemist, giving elaborate descriptions of the manufacture of sparkling wmes, and the artificial compounds of the so-called sweet wines, vins de liqueur, etc. My chief aim is to demonstrate in a simple and plain manner, the rules which are necessary to success. Wine making is a very simple art, which every one with sound common sense may acquire, yet it can not be followed successfully without a strict observance of these rules. I shall be as concise as possible, and hope that this little volume may enable every one, who wishes to do so, to make healthful and palatable wine for his own use, and at the same time to assist the owner of ten or twenty acres of vineyard to convert the products of it into a salable article of commerce. THE CELLAR. Before making wine, room should be provided to keep it. If you want to make only a small quantity for your own use, and have a common house-cellar, it will answer the purpose, although not likely to be cool enough in summer. The main consideration is to always have the wine thoroughly fermented and finished during (195) 196 AMEEICAiq' GRAPE GROWING the first winter. If this is the case, it will keep even in a temperature of 65°, though 45° would be better. But if one wishes to take up wine making as a business, and manufacture several thousand gallons, a s]3ecial building for the purpose is necessary. A steep hillside, sloping towards the north, is the most suitable locality, and the most economical and most convenient building is one of three stories. The lower one, for keeping the wine when finished, should be completely underground, the second story, intended for the fermenting cellar, partially so, at least, and the third, intended for the press house, can be entirely above ground, so that the grapes can be conveniently carried into it. The lower story should be well walled and, if possible, arched with stone, though this is not indispensable. If arched, it should be about 18 feet wide by 12 feet high from the floor to the middle of the arch, so that there is room for casks 5 feet long in two rows, one on each side, space enough between the casks and the wall to pass be- hind them, and a passage of 5 to 6 feet in the center, to allow space for drawing off wine, moving casks, etc. The length can be suited to the wants of the builder ; the entrance should, if possible, be even with the ground, and if built into the hillside, it can easily be made so, and the back part of the cellar slightly elevated, so that it will drain towards the door. It is best to have a room in front, so as to keep out the cold air ; this can be used for storing empty casks, cellar utensils, etc. The cellar should be well ventilated on the sides by air flues built in the wall, and constructed somewhat like chim- neys, commencing at the bottom and terminating above the arch. These are to be closed by a grate and trap door, so that they can be opened at will, to admit air and light. The cellar is to be closed by strong double doors. Place on each side two rows of beams, lengthwise, as layers for the casks, one to be about 2 feet from the wall. AKD WIXE MAKII!?-G. 197 the other 47^ feet. It will be best if tlie floor is paved with brick or flags. The second story of the building is intended- for the fermenting cellar, and may be made either of stone, which is certainly the most durable, or of wood, if cheaper and more convenient ; it need not be arched. It should be, at least, 9 feet high, and partly under ground, with its entrance from the rear, as this will be more convenient. There ought to be holes through the arch of the lower cellar, large enough to admit the passage of a hose, by which the wine can be racked from the casks in the U23per cellar into the casks below. This room need not be arched, but should be so constructed that it is free from frost, and can be heated by a stove, if necessary, to regulate the temperature while the must is fermenting. Place layers, or beams, to receive the casks, on both sides, as in the lower cellar. The third story is above the ground^ and is calculated for the press room, with the entrance from the back, and is intended to contain the wine press, grape mill, and fer- menting vats, together with all the necessary implements for wine making. The whole is to be covered with a good roof, and there should be a large cistern, to receive all the water from it, and as convenient to the press room as possible, so that the water can be drawn into the room by a force pump. If the press room is so arranged as to be heated by a stove, it will be found convenient in winter as a shop in which to prepare cuttings, etc. To sum up, there should be : 1st. A cellar to keep the fermented wine altogether below ground, so that it will remain at as even a temperature as possible. 2nd. A fer- menting cellar, or good, air tight room, which need not necessarily be. below ground, if it can be kept free from frost until about December loth, to put the must through a rapid and thorough fermentation. 3d. A press room for receiving and washing the grapes, and, when necessary, 198 AMERICAiq" GRAPE GROWING passing them through a light fermentation before pressing, with sufficient room for all the implements. 4th. Plenty of good cistern water for all purposes. All the stories, for greater convenience in working, to be connected by hose. As observed before, any one can make and keep a small quantity of wine for home use, even without a regular wine cellar. One of the most successful wine makers I ever knew, and who afterwards made it by tens of thou- sands of gallons, stored his first crop in a hole in the ground, 8 feet deep, and planked inside, with a board roof ; in this he placed his casks, and covered the whole with earth. But for the cultivator who would make grape growing and wine making his business, a separate wine cellar will become absolutely necessary, and should be built as soon as possible. The expense will be accord- ing to the dimensions ; a building 30 by 18 feet would cost here now about 11,500, and have a capacity of 5,000 gallons in the lower cellar, provided casks of not less than 500 gallons are used. CELLAR FURNITURE. "We now come to the utensils necessary for wine mak- ing. You need : 1st. A Press. — The most convenient one for a medium- sized establishment, to press say not over 5,000 gallons per annum, I have found to be one made at Belleville, 111. It is compact, takes little space, and it has a false bottom, which can be easily taken off and cleaned. The hopper is in the shape of a double-grooved ring, so that the juice can flow off towards the middle, the out- side, and the bottom ; it does the work quickly and well. A strong iron screw is in the middle, and is worked by a lever on top. It costs about 835 to $40. It is dura- ble, easily cleaned, and takes little space. A small quantity of grapes can, of course, be pressed with any AND WINE MAKING. 199 kind of a cider press. One will press about a barrel at a time, and twenty barrels can be worked off in a day. 2nd. The Mill. — For mashing grapes, a simple pair of wooden rollers, connected by cog wheels, and running against each other, so arranged that they can be set by screws to any desired distance apart, will do the work better than anything else, and a boy of ten years can turn them. The rollers are in a frame which can be set oyer the vat ; a hopper on top to receive the grapes, completes the arrangement. The rollers can be either plain or grooved, as desired, and the whole will cost from $12 to 115. Small quantities may be mashed with a wooden pestle in a tub. The rollers should be so set as to break the skins of the berries, but not to crush the seeds or stems. 3d. Fermenting Yats. — These are best made of pop- lar wood, and may be of any suitable size, with a capacity of from 100 to 500 gallons. For a larger establishment I would prefer them about 5 feet diameter by 5 feet high, and somewhat narrower at the top than at bottom. They should be well hooped and strong, made of ly^-inch lum- ber, and worked smoothly inside, so that they can be easily cleaned, with a spigot hole near the botton to draw off the must. Their probable cost is about five to six cents per gallon. 4th. Casks. — These are wanted, of course, of all di- mensions. Large casks save room, and are proportionally cheaper ; fermentation progresses rapidly in them, but it takes longer for the wine to fine and clear after fermen- tation is over, than in small casks. They should be of good, well seasoned white oak wood ; if steamed before using, so that the tannin is drawn out, so much the better. Larger casks should also have a so-called ^ ^man- hole," so that a man or boy can slip in and thoroughly clean them when used. I do not advise larger casks than 500 gallons, as it takes too long to fill them, and they are, 200 AME^RICAiq" GKAPE GROWIKG therefore,' unhandy/ except for very large establisliments. TKese^areabout 5 feet long by 5 feet diameter, and should be placed on strong beams in the cellar, about 18 inch- es above the floor and 15 to 18 inches from the wall, so as to enable you, to examine them at any time and clean them x)f mould or cobwebs. ^Ijieir cost at present is about 7 cents per gallon. Imported Eheuish wine Fig. 28. — WOODEN FmfNEL. t 1 1 T £ nrx J. ^ casks, holdmg from 80 to 160 gallons each, are also very good if they have not been allowed to sour or become mouldy, but, of course, they take up more room in proportion than do large casks. 5th. A Steo2^g Woodex Fuki^el. — This is oblong, with a copper pipe in the bottom, and has two short wooden legs, so that it will set firmly on the cask. Any good cooper can make one. See fisjure 28. 6tli. Tubs to be Used in" Pressin'g. ;^;-Any^good pine or cedar tubs will do for the"* purposd. Also cleali tin or wooden"^^ pails should be provided in abundance. - 7th.- A Saccharometer or Must Scale.— 'This is important and you can not 'do without, as they are the only siire 'guided as to quality of the , ^ ^ ^ .^^ . must', and you cd,n not make wine ra- ' <^^>v^^'^\\\\\\\\\v^ tionally or with^ certainty "of success, Fig. 29. unless you know what amount of sugar and acid the must contains. Oechsle's is the one most commonly AND WINE MAKING. 201 used, and can be had in any optical establishment. They are made of glass, platina, or silver, at prices ranging from $3 to 110. Figure 29 shows must scale (silyer) and test tube. With the scale you should also have a long glass, or tin tube made for the purpose of holding the must while testing it. An Acidimeter. — The one inyented and patented by Henry Twitchell is simple, and can be used with accuracy Fig. 30. — ACIDIMETER. by beginners. It is a timely invention, as it took long practice to work correctly with either Otto's or Geissler's. It is accompanied with full directions for its use. Fig- ure SO gives an illustration of the Acidimeter. 202 AMERICANS" GRAPE GROWIJ^G- GATHERING THE GRAPES. Having our cellar built, and stocked with the necessary implements, we can now proceed to gather the grapes. The i^roper time to do this depends very much upon the varieties. The mstivalis, and most of the cordifolia class, in short, all grapes which have an agreeable flavor — one which we wish to have in its fullest development in the must or wine — we ought to have thoroughly ripe. The riper the grapes, the more fully will their peculiar flavor be developed, the less acid and the more sugar will they contain. We must, therefore, learn the nature of our grapes before we know when to gather them. In the va- rieties of Lctbrusca, at least in most of them, their jDeculiar flavor is not desirable m its highest development, and is generally characterized as '^foxy." A good many of them also, for instance. Concord and Martha, do not contain the proper amount of acid when fully ripe, to bear the necessary dilution of this strong, foxy taste, and as they must be ^'G-allized'' at any rate, to be iDalatable, it is not advisable to let them get over ripe. I would advise, therefore, to take these, and, in short, all the varieties with a strong, foxy, and disagreeable aroma, when fully colored, and let those varieties with an agreeable aroma hang long, in order to obtain their flavor in its full perfection and delicacy ; and also to develop the greatest amount of sugar and diminish the acid. The best evi- dences of a grape being thoroughly ripe are ; 1st. The stem turns brown and begins to shrivel. 2d. The berry begins to shrivel around the stem. 3d. The skin is thin and transparent. 4th. The juice becomes very sweet, and adheres to the fingers like honey or molasses. It is often advisable to gather twice, as many bunches will ripen later than others. If the ripest are gathered first, the remainder will ripen quicker, and a uniform product can thus be obtained. The first implements needed for the AND WINE MAKING. 203 gatliering are clean wooden or tin pails, and sharp knives, or better still, the small shears spoken of in a former part of this work. Each gatherer i^ provided with a pail, or two may go together, having a pail each, so that one can empty and the other keep filling. If there are a good many unripe berries on the bunches, these may be put into a separate pail, and also all that are soft, as they will make an inferior wine. The bunch is cut with as short a stem as possible, as the stems contain a great deal of acid and tannin ; every unripe, dry, or decayed berry is to be l^icked out, so that none but per- fectly sound, ripe berries remain. We also need a carrying vat, to carry the grapes to the mill or wagon, if the vineyard is any distance from the cellar. This is made of half-inch j^ine lum- ber 3 feet high, 10 inches wide at bottom, 20 inches at top, being flat on one side, where it comes against the back ; it is bound with thin iron hoops. It is carried by two leather straps running over the shoulders, as shown in figure 31, and will contain about 8 or 10 pails, or 2 to %^ / ^ bushels of grapes. The carrier can easily take it through the rows and lean it against a post until filled, and then carry the grapes directly to the press room, if close by, if too far, place tubs or vats on the wagon, into which the grapes may be emptied. The utmost cleanliness should be observed in all the apparatus, and no tub, vat, or pail should be used which is in the least mouldy, as the must will at once acquire any foreign taste. Everything should be perfectly clean and sweet, and a strict supervision Fig. 31.— CARRYING VAT. 204 AMEEICAI^ GEAPE GROWING kept up, that the laborers do not drop crumbs of bread, etc., among the grapes, as these will cause acetous fermen- tation. The weather should be dry and fair, and the grapes dry when gathered. MAKING THE WINE. The apparatus being all ready, we can commence opera- tions, and here we must know, first and foremost, what kind of wine we intend to make, whether light-colored and smooth, or dark-colored and astringent. The char- acter of the wine depends chiefly on its fermentation on the husks, although of course we cannot make an entirely white wine out of a grape with yery dark juice, nor a red wine, except by artificial coloring, out of a white grape, or one with very light-colored juice. The general rule is, however, that fermentation draws acid, tannin, color, and flavor out of the skins and stems, so that if we desire to develop the greatest amount of these, we must let the must remain longer on the husks ; if, on the contrary, we desire a mild, smooth Avine, it should not ferment long on the husks. Many of the red wines of Europe are left on the husks for several months, and the wine is drawn from them when it is about finished. To make white, or light-colored, smooth wine, the grapes which were gathered and mashed during the day can" be pressed and put into the cask during the following night. The mill is placed above the fermenting vat, and the grapes are mashed as soon as they are carried in, or hauled to the press house. The vat is covered with a cloth during the day. If the season has been good, and you have a perfect grape to deal with, such a one as has all the ingredients of a good wine in the proper propor- tions, it will make good wme without any other addition. If not, sugar, or sugar and water, must be added, but I will speak of this in a separate chapter. With the Con- cord grape, many make both a white and a red wine. The AND WINE MAKING. 205 white is made by simply pressing very lightly as soon as the grapes are mashed, so as to drain off the first run of the Juice before it has acquired any color from the skins. The husks are then tJirown into the fermenting vat, water and sugar added, and fermented several days ; then pressed, and thus a red wine is produced. I must say that I prefer the wine gained by fermenting, say 24 hours, in a temperature of 65° to 80° on the husks, and all pressed together. It generally contains all the ingredi- ents in better proportions, while the white wine seldom has the due proportion of acid and tannin, and the red generally has an excess of acid, tannin, and flavor. Of course the temperature has a great influence on fermen- tation, as in warm weather it progresses much more rapidly, and the pressing should be done sooner than in cool weather. It is entirely optional with the wine-mak- er what kind of wine he produces ; he can make it to suit himself, and soon learns how to do it. The longer he ferments his must, the more astringent and rough his wine will be ; and the sooner and lighter he presses, the less character will the wine acquire, though it will be much more delicate and smooth. Before filling the oasks they should be well prepared. They should be perfectly clean and sweet without the slightest mouldiness. If new, they should be steamed, or filled with pure water, and allowed to soak for several days, then emptied, and scalded with two or three gallons of boiling wine. This quantity is for a cask of say 500 gallons. Or, if this is not convenient, put in, say a peck of unslaked lime, and about five gallons of water, then put in the bung and turn the cask about, so that all parts of it are touched by the mixture. Then pour out the lime water, and wash -with water, then rinse with a de- coction of vine leaves, or warm wine, or better still, pour in a pint of pure alcohol or grape brandy, and light it by a match. The fumes of the burning brandy 206 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWING TTill penetrate the wood, and make you secure against any taint in the wine. But do not bung the cask while the brandy is burning, or you may have an ex- plosion before you know it. The same may be done with mouldy casks, to make them fresh and service- able again. The casks can then be filled with the must, either completely, if it is intended that the must should fer- ment above, as it is called, or under, when the cask is not completely filled, so that the husks, scums, etc., which the must will throw to the surface during fer- mentation, will remain in the cask. Both methods have their advantages, but after long practice, I now follow the latter, leaving empty space enough until rapid fermentation is over, so that all remains in the cask. As long as fermentation lasts, and the gas escapes, all goes right, and a few vine leaves over the bung-hole, on which a small sack of sand is laid, are sufficient to close it. Of course it must be closely watched, and the bung closed as soon as fermentation ceases, when the casks must be filled with wine kept for that purpose in a separate cask. If, during fermentation, cool weather should set in, and the temperature fall below 60°, the fermenting cel- lar should be warmed by a stove. But this will rarely be the case, as the vintage should be over before cold weather sets in. When violent fermentation has ceased, and the must has become quiet, the cask should be closed with a tight bung of white oak or poplar wood. To make dark-red wine, the treatment differs, as it is the object, as before remarked, to get a wine of the darkest color, highest flavor, and of a certain astringency, which it will only attain by fermenting on the husks. The must is, in that case, allowed to ferment on the husks for from three to six days, when the husks which rise to the surface should often be pressed down and stirred through the must, to AND WII^E MAKIKG. 207 prevent their souring. The must is then drawn off below, by a faucet, and the husks pressed. If it is desired to make only a dark-colored wine, without so much astringency, and of great body, the grapes are allowed to hang until they are very ripe, even shrivelled ; and stemmed, as the stems contain a large amount of acid and tannin, and give the wine a rough and bitter taste. In this manner the celebrated red wines of Burgundy, and the best brands of France and Germany, are made. Many of them are even allowed to go through the whole process of fer- mentation before pressing, and the husks are filled into the cask with the must, through a door above, and remain there until the clear wine is drawn off. This is gener- ally not desirable here, however, as our red grapes con- tain sufficient astringency and color without this process. After the wine has become quiet it is looked after fre- quently, and the casks filled to the bung. As there is more or less evaporation, this should be done every two or three weeks, always using wine of the same or similar character. In two to three months the wine ought to be clear and bright, and should then be racked, i. e., drawn from the lees by means of a faucet, and put into clean, sweet casks. It is very important here, again, that the casks into which it is drawn, are sweet and clean, or " wine green. " For must, fresh brandy or whiskey casks may be used ; but after the wine has fermented, it will not do to use such, as the wine acquires the smell and taste of the liquor. When a cask has been emptied, it should be carefully cleaned, as before described, by en- tering at the door or man-hole, or, with smaller casks, by taking out the head, as the lees are very adhesive, and will not wash out readily, but should be brushed off. After it is thoroughly cleansed it may be fumigated slightly, by burning a small piece of sulphured paper, or a nutmeg in it, and then filled. To keep empty casks in good condition, they should, after cleaning, be allowed 208 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWIlfG to become thoroughly dry, when they are sulphured, closed tightly, and laid away in the cellar. The sulphur- ing should be repeated every six weeks. When wanted for use, they are rinsed with cold water. For racking the wine we should have : 1st. A large, brass or wooden faucet. 2d. Pails of a peculiar shape, narrow at the top, to prevent wastage. 3d. A wooden funnel, as described before, to hold about six gallons. In racking, first loosen the bung of the cask. Then, after loosening the wooden peg, and closing the tap hole, let your assistant hold the pail opposite the hole. You hold the faucet with your right hand, and with the left withdraw the plug, inserting the faucet quickly ; drive it in firmly and you are ready for the work. Do not fully open the faucet at first, because the first pailful is generally not quite clear, and should run slowly. This, and the last from the lees, are generally put into a cask together, and allowed to settle, when, in a few weeks, it will become clear, and make a good wine. As soon as the wine runs clear and limpid, it can be put into the cask, and you can let it run as fast as the faucet will allow, opening it to its fullest capacity. When the wine has run off down to the tap hole, the cask may be carefully raised at the other end, one inserting a piece of board or a brick under it, while the other lifts slowly and gently. This may be repeated several times, as long as the wine runs clear, and when it becomes slightly cloudy, keep the cloudy wine to put with what ran out first. As soon as it becomes thick and muddy it is time to stop. The door is then taken out of the cask and the lees emptied out. They Avill, if distilled, make a fine flavored and strong brandy. If your cellar is built according to the plan already given, you can attach a hose to the faucet and run your wine from the fermenting cellar into the cellar and casks below, which is a great saving of time and wastage. The must can also be run from the press- AN"D Wli^E MAKIISTG. 209 room into the casks in the fermenting cellar in the same manner. We should keep in mmd, in all operations, the kind of wine we intend to make. In white and light- colored wines, we desire delicacy of bouquet and smoothness of taste ; in red wines for medicinal or stomachic use, we de- sire astringency, body, and a decided and characteristic flavor. A\'hite and light-colored wines should, therefore, be racked as s^oon as they are clear, while red wines may remain , longer on the lees. Both can be modified, by treatmerft;"to meet the jDeculiar taste ; a red wine may be made smoother, and a white wine more astringent, by longer or shorter fermentation on the husks and lees. We can thus conform to the taste of the consumer. If the prevailing taste is for light-colored, smooth and delicate wines, we can make them so, by pressing soon, and rack- ing soon* and frequently. If a dark-colored, astringent wine is desired, we can ferment on the husks, and leave it on the lees a longer period. There is a medium course in this, as in all things, and the intelligent wine-maker will soon find the rules which should guide him, and with a-little practice discover the method which will give him the best results with a certain variety. Among the varieties suited for white wines, and which should be treated as such, I will name the Elvira, Goethe, Herbemont, Martha, Massasoit, Uhland, Catawba, Dela- ware, and Taylor, and among the varieties for dark-red wines, Cynthiana, Norton's Virginia, Lenoir, Alvey, Clinton, and Ives' Seedling. The Concord can be used for both, or can be made light-red. For Sherry vn.ne, use the Hermann, Eulander, and Cunningham. These latter require a sort of medium treatment ; it is desirable to develop their peculiar flavor ; it is not desirable to have them astringent or dark-colored. Fermenting on the husks 24 to 36 hours, in a temperature of 60° to 70°, will be about right for them. It is very important that the 210 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING temperature should not vary much during fermenta- tion, and that the first fermentation on the husks, and for the first week following, should be rapid and unin- terrupted. If the wine goes into the next summer fully fermented and finished, clear and limpid, there is little danger of its becoming cloudy and diseased afterwards, even if it must be kept in a changeable temperature. AFTER TREATMENT OF THE WINE. Even if the wine was perfectly clear when drawn off, in February and March, when it should be racked for the second time, it will go through a second fermentation, however slight this may be, as soon as warm weather sets in, say in June and July. The clearer and better developed the wine was when last racked, the slighter this will be, for only the lees yet remaining in it which the young wine has not entirely deposited will act as the ferment. It is not safe or judicious, therefore, to bottle the wine before this second fermentation is over. As soon as the wine has become perfectly quiet and clear again, generally about September, it can be bottled, or sold by the cask. For bottling wine we need : 1st. Clean bottles. 2d. Good corks, which must be scalded with hot water first, to draw out all impurities, and soften them, and then be soaked in cold water. 3d. A small funnel. 4th. A small faucet. 5th. A light, wooden mallet to drive in the corks. After the faucet has been inserted in the cask, fill your bottles so that there will be about an inch of room be- tween the cork and the wine. Let them stand a few minutes before you drive in the cork, which should be of full size, and made to fit by compressing at one end. Then drive in the cork with the mallet, and lay the bottles, either in sand on the cellar floor, or on a rack made for that purpose. They should be so laid that the wine covers the cork, to exclude all air. The greater bulk AND WIIsTE MAKING. 211 of the wine, however, can safely be sold now, or kept in casks. All the wine to be kept should be racked once about every six months, and the casks kept well filled. DISEASES OF WINE AND THEIR REMEDIES. Wine properly made, and with all ingredients in right proportion, will seldom suffer from any disease. Cases may arise, however, which may make it necessary to give it a different treatment, or fine it by artificial means. TREATMENT OF FLAT AND TURBID WINE. The cause of flat wine is generally lack of tannin. If the wine has a peculiar flat, soft taste, and looks cloudy, this is uniformly the case. Draw the wine into another cask, which has been well sulphured, and add some j^ulverized tannin, which can be had at any drug store. The tan- nin may be dissolved either in water or wine, about an ounce to every two hundred gallons of wine, and poured in at the bung, after which the wine should be well stirred with a stick inserted through the bung-hole. Should it not become clear in about three weeks, it must be fined. This can be done by adding about an ounce of powdered gum arable, or isinglass, to each forty gallons. The gum arable will dissolve in cold water, but isinglass requires hot water ; stir the wine well when it has been poured in. Or take some wine out of the cask, and, for each forty gallons of wine, add the whites of ten eggs, whipi^ed to foam with the wine taken out ; pour this mixture into the cask, stir well, and bung tightly. After a week the wine will generally be clear, and should then be drawn off. An easier and speedier method to fine is to put it through a filter filled with paper pulp, but the apparatus is somewhat costly. As it is accompanied by directions for use to those who purchase it, it would be superfluous to describe it here. As stated before, if the wine has been properly made and fermented, such 212 AMEKICAN GRAPE GROWINa procedures will seldom be necessary, and the wine will be sound and clear without any artificial means. The ob- servant and rational wine-maker will seldom be troubled by any mishaps, and his wines will be palatable and bright without any such treatment. USES OF THE HUSKS AND LEES. These can be distilled, and will make a very strong, fine flavored brandy. The husks are stamped down into empty barrels or vats, as close as possible, with a cover of clay made over them, to exclude the air. They will then undergo a fermentation and be ready for distilling in about a month. They should be taken fresh from the press, for if they remain exposed to the air they become mouldy. The lees can be distilled immediately. Good fresh lees or husks from rather astringent wines or gi'apes, are also an excellent remedy when the wine be- comes flat, as described before. If such wine is ferment- ed on the husks again for a day or two, it will generally become sound and bright. AND Wliq^E MAKING. 213 CHAPTER XLVI. DR. GALL'S AND PETIOL'S METHODS OF WINE MAKING. So far, I have only spoken of the handling of the raw product of Nature, taking for granted that we had a fair must in good condition to work with. But this un- fortunately is rarely the case, and the natural juice of the grape seldom contains all the elementary constituents of a good wine in the proper proportions. In fact, very many of our American varieties are very imperfect even in the best seasons, and contain generally a superabund- ance of acid and flavoring matter or aroma. What then is the intelligent operator to do ? Shall he use them as they are, although he is aware they are imperfect, and produce a poor, undrinkable, unsalable, and even un- healthful article ? Or shall he, with the reason and knowledge God has given him, seek to remedy Nature's imperfections, dilute the acid and aroma, add sugar, if necessary, and thus make a salable, pleasant, and healthful beverage ? I think the intelligent wine-makers — and it is only for them I am writing, can not hesitate which course to take. I am aware that I am treading on dangerous ground, that I have been severely censured for my advocacy of Dr. Gall in my former little book, but truth remains truth, whether assailed or not, and the laws of chemistry will not change to please any of the '^ Simon Pure Natur- alists," who rail against Gallizing, because they do not know anything about its true jDrinciples. But let me put myself right before my readers, before entering upon the details of the operation. I advocate Gallizing only so J 214 AMERICAi^ GKAPE GROWIN"G far as it is the best means of improving otherwise imper- fect must, not as an indiscriminate means of increas- ing the quantity at the expense of quality. Only so far as by the additior of water and sugar, an imperfect must can be made the most perfect, is Gallizing not only justi- fiable, but a necessity. As soon as it aims only at in- creasing the quantity without regard to quality, it is rep- rehensible, and should be frowned down. This may be called gallotiizmg, not Gallizing ; and that these gallon- izers have done a great deal of mischief by bringing their trash before the pubhc, and calling it wine, can not be denied. But those who, from a mistaken idea that a wine to be good and healthful, must be natural, as they call it, have made it as Nature gave it, and have, there- fore, disgusted the palates of refined wine connoisseurs by their pure, but weak, foxy, and acid Concords, and Ives, etc., thus doing even more to bring American wines into discredit than the gallonizers. Both of these, the natural Avine-makers and the gallonizers, have been the curse and bane of our wine markets ; those who, in the inno- cent belief that they were tasting fair samples of Ameri- can wines, swallowed their compounds and were disgusted, and when they met with good productions, were de- terred from tasting again. The true course lies in the middle, as usual. The wine-maker has certain un- erring guides, which teach him, with a little practice and experimenting, ^'thus far shalt thou go, but no farther." Having thus defined what we intend to do, which is simply to improve our must, if deficient, let us, to see our way clearly before us, examine as to the consti- tuent parts of must or grape juice. A chemical analysis of must shows the following result : Grape juice contains water, sugar, free acids, tannin, gummy and mucous substances or gluten, coloring mat- ter, fragrant, or flavoring substances (aroma, bouquet). AI^D WINE MAKIN'G. 215 A good or normal must should contain all these ingredi- ents in due proportion. If there is an excess of one, and a lack of the other, it can not make a perfect wine. This would seem apparent to every reasoning wine maker. Must which contains all of these in exactly the right pro- portion we call a perfect or normal must ; and only by determining the amount of each of the ingredients in this so-called normal must, can we gain the knowledge that will enable us to improve must which has not the necessary proportion of each. The frequency of unfavorable seasons in Europe, set intelligent men to thinking ; their grapes were sadly deficient in sugar, did not ripen fully, and also lacked in flavor. How then could this. defect be remedied, and a grape crop which was almost worthless from its want of sugar and excess of acids, be made to yield at least a fair article, instead of the sour and unsalable wine generally produced in such seasons ? Among the foremost v/ho experimented with this object in view I will here mention Chaptal, Petiol, but especially Dr. Ludwig Gall, Avho has at last reduced the whole science of wine making to such a mathematical certainty, that we are amazed that so simple a process should not have been discovered long ago. It is the old story of the egg of Columbus, but the poor wine-makers of Germany and France, and we in this country also, are none the less indebted to those in- telligent and persevering men for the incalculable benefits they have conferred upon us. The production of good wine is thus reduced to a science ; though we cannot, perhaps, in a bad season, produce as high flavored and delicate wines as in the best years, we can now always make a fair article, by following the simple rules laid down by Dr. Gall. Nay, as most of our grapes, in a good season, contain flavor in excess, we can often make fully as palatable wine in a poor season, when that flavor is not so fully 216 AMERICAiT GRAPE GROWING developed, by merely adding water and sugar to dilute the acid. In this respect we can make a more uniform pro- duct from our strongly flavored varieties, than the Euro- peans can from their delicately flavored varieties of vini- fera, which are deficient in flavor in bad seasons. When this method was first introduced, it was calumni- ated and despised, called adulteration of wine, and even prohibited by the governments of Europe, but Dr. Gall fearlessly challenged his opponents to have his wines analyzed by the most eminent chemists. This was re- peatedly done, and the results showed that they could find nothing but such ingredients as pure wine should con- tain ; and since men like Yon Babo, Dobereiner, and others, have openly endorsed and recommended Gallizing, prejudice is giving way before the light of scientific knowledge. The same will be the case here. Intelligent men will see that there is nothing reprehensible in the practice, and the public will, in time, prefer the properly Gallized, and, therefore, more palatable and more health- ful wines, to the foxy and acid productions of the stick- lers for natural wines. To determine the amount of sugar and acids in the must, we need a few necessary implements. The first is the must scale, or Saccharometer, already mentioned in the necessary implements for wine making (see fig. 29.) The most suitable one now in use is Oechsle's Must Scale, constructed on the principle that the instrument sinks the deeper into any fluid the thinner it is, or the less sugar it contains. It is generally made of silver, or German silver, although it is also made of glass. A represents a hollow cylinder, best made of glass, filled with must to the brim, into which place the must scale, B. This is composed of the hollow float, a, which keeps it suspended in the fluid ; of the weight, h, for holding it in a perpendicular position, and the scale, divided by small lines into from 50° to 100°. Before the scale is placed Aiq^D WINE MAKING. 217 in the must, draw it several times througli the mouth to moisten it, but allow no saliva to adhere to it. When the scale ceases to descend, note the degree to which it has sunk, after which, press it down with the finger a few degrees further, and on its standing still again, the line to which the must reaches, indicates its so-called weight, expressed by degrees. The must should have a temperature of 65° to 70°, be weighed in an entirely fresh state, before it shows any sign of fermentation, and should be free from husks ; if strained through a piece of mosquito bar, or small sieve all the better. This instrument, which is indispensable to every one who intends to make wine rationally, can now be had from prominent opticians in nearly every large town. It indicates the amount of sugar in the must, and its use is so simple, that every one can soon become familiar with it. The next step in the improvement of must was to determine the amount of acids it contained, and this problem has also been successfully solved by the inven- tion of the Acidimeter. As remarked before, Twitchell's Acidimeter is the best now in use, and as it is accompanied by full directions for use, I need not repeat them here, further than to say that to ascertain the acidity of must, it should be tested when pressed, as many of our pulpy grapes contain nearly all their acid in the pulp, and the instrument will, therefore, not give a fair indication until fermenta- tion has drawn out the acid. A normal must, to suit the prevailing taste here, should contain about four-thousandths parts of acids, while in Europe it varies from four and a half to seven-thousandths, as the taste there is generally in favor of more acid wines. I cannot do better here than quote from Dr. Gall, who gives the following directions as a guide to distinguish and determine the proportion of acids which 10 218 AMERICAN GEAPE GROWING a must should contain to be still agreeable to the palate, and good : ** Chemists distinguish the acids contained in the grape as the vinous, malic, grape, citric, tannic, gelatinous, and para-citric acids. Whether all of these are contained in the must, or which of them, is of small moment for us to know. For the practical wine-maker it is sufficient to know, with full certainty, that, as the grape ripens, while the proportion of sugar increases, the quantity of acids continually diminishes, and hence, by leaving the grapes on the vines as long as possible, we have a double means of improving their products, the must or wine. *' All wines, without exception, to be of good and agreeable taste, must contain from four and a half to seven- thousandths part of free acids, and each must containing more than seven-thousandths part of free acids may be considered as having too little water and sugar in propor- tion to its acids. '^ In all the wine-growing countries of Europe, for a number of years past, experience has proved that a cor- responding addition of sugar and water is the means of converting the sourest must, not only into a good drink- able wine, but also into as good a wine as can be produced in favorable years, except in that peculiar and delicate aroma found only in the must of well-ripened grapes, and which must, and will, always distinguish the wines made in the best seasons from those made in poor seasons. ^' The Saccharometer and Acidimeter, properly used, will give us the exact knowledge of what the must con- tains and what it lacks, and we have the means at hand, by adding water, to reduce the acids to their proper pro- portions, and by adding sugar, to increase the amount of sugar the must should contain ; in other words, we can change the poor must of indifferent seasons into the nor- mal must of the best seasons in everything, except its AND WINE MAKING. 219 bouquet or aroma, thereby conyerting an unwholesome and disagreeable drink into an agreeable and healthful one." THE CHANGE OF THE MUST INTO WINE. Let us glance for a few moments at this wonderful, simple, aud yet so complicated process, to give a clearer insight into the functions which man has to perform to assist Nature, and have her work for him, to attain the desired end. I cannot do better than to quote again from Dr. Gall. He says : ''To form a correct opinion of what may, and can, be done, in the manufacture of wine, we must be thoroughly convinced that Nature, in her operations, has other objects in view than merely to serve man as his careful cook and butler. Had the high- est object of the Creator, in the creation of the grape, been simply to combine in the juice of the fruit nothing but what is indispensable to the formation of the delicious beverage for the accommodation of man, it might have been still easier done for him by at once filling the ber- ries with wine already made. But in the production of fruits, the first object of all is to provide for the propaga- tion and preservation of the species. Each fruit con- tains the germ of a new plant, and a quantity of nu- tritious matter surrounding and developing that germ. The general belief is that this nutritious matter, and even the peculiar combination in which it is found in the fruit, has been made directly for the immediate use of man. - This, however, is a mistake. The nutritious matter of the grape, as in the apple, pear, or any similar product, is designed by Nature only to serve as the first nourish- ment of the future plant, the germ of which lies in it. There are thousand of fruits of no use whatever, and even noxious to man, and there are thousands more, which, before they can be used, must be divested of certain parts, necessary, indeed, to the nutrition of the future 220 AMEEICAN GRAPE GROWING. plant, but unfit, in their present state, for the use or nourishment of man. For instance, barley contains starch, mucilaginous sugar, gum, adhesive matter, vege- table albumen, phosphate of lime, oil, fibre, and water. All these are necessary for the formation of roots, stalks, leaves, flowers, and the new grain ; but for the manufac- ture of beer, the brewer needs only the first three sub- stances. The same rule applies to the grape. "In this use of the grape, all depends upon the judg- ment of man to select such of its parts as he wishes, and by his skill he adapts and applies them in the manner best for his purposes. In eating the grape he throws away the skins and seeds ; for raisins, he evaporates the water, retaining only the solid parts, from which, when he uses them, he rejects the seeds. If he manufactures must he lets the skins remain. In making wine he sets free the carbonic acid contained in the must, and re- moves the lees, gum, tartar, and, in short, everything deposited during and immediately after fermentation, as well as when it is put into casks and bottles. He not only removes from the wine its sediments, but watches the fermentation and checks it as soon as vinous fer- mentation is over, and the formation of vinegar about to begin. He refines his wine by an addition of foreign sub- stances; if necessary, he sulphurizes it, and, by one means or another, remedies its diseases. '* The manufacture of wine is thus a many-sided art, and he who does not understand it, or knows not how to guide and direct the powers of Nature to his own pur- poses, may as well give up all hopes of success in it." So far Dr. Grail ; and to the intelligent and unbiased mind, the truth and force of these remarks will be appar- ent. How absurd then are the blind ravings of those who speak of "natural" wines, and condemn as adul- teration and fraud every addition of sugar and water to the must by man, in seasons when Nature has not fully AKD WII^E MAKIITG. 221 done her part. There is no such thing as *^ natural wine/' for wine, especially good wine, is the product of art, and an artificial process from beginning to end. An all-wise Creator gave us the raw materials for our suste- nance and convenience, but gave us also reasoning powers to convert them to our use, and make them more whole- some and palatable. Shall we eat the raw potato simply because it is a natural production, or are we justified in cooking and roasting it, to make it more palatable and wholesome ? How would the ' ' naturalist " stare if some fine morning his good wife would set a cup filled with raw coffee beans and some water before him, instead of his usual fragrant beverage, and a dish of raw wheat in- stead of the usual light rolls which tempt his appetite ? Yet the making of coffee and bread are even less natural, more artificial, than the addition of sugar and water to the must. Would not the wine-maker act as foolishly as the housewife who puts raw coffee and wheat, upon the table, instead of the fragrant cup and white roll, if he has it in his power to remedy the deficiencies of Nature by such means as she herself supplies in good seasons, and which ought, and would be in the must, but for un- favorable circumstances over which we have no control ? Wine thus improved is just as pure as if the water and sugar had naturally been in the grapes in the right pro- portions, just as beneficial to health, and only the fanati- cal numskull can call it adulterated. But these preju- dices will disappear before the light of science and truth, and have disappeared already, until there is not a single establishment of any consequence, either here or in Europe, where it is not followed, either secretly or open- ly, and to the manifest improvement of their wines. Yet, strange to say, these same *^ naturalists " will enjoy sparkling wines with a great deal of gusto, although they are a still more artificial product. And many of them will smack their lips over some rare so-called, ^' Old 222 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING Port/' which has never seen a grape, but is some skillful concoction of logwood, spices, tartaric acid, syrup, alco- hol, and tannin. '" Oh, consistency, thou art a jewel !" Let us now observe the change which fermentation makes in converting the must into wine. The nitro- genous compounds — vegetable albumen, gluten — (which are contained in the grape, and which are dissolved in the must as completely as the sugar), under certain cir- cumstances turn into the fermenting principle, and so change the must into wine. This change is brought about by the fermenting substance coming in contact with the air, and receiving oxygen from it, in conse- quence of which it coagulates, and shows itself in the turbid state of must, or young wine. The coagulation of the lees takes place but gradually, and just in the de- gree that the exhausted lees settle. The sugar generally turns into alcohol. The acids remain partly as tartaric acid, are; partly turned into ether, or settle with the lees, crystallize, and adhere to the bottom of the cask. The etheric oil or aroma remains, and develops into bouquet, as does the tannin, to a certain degree. The albumen and gluten principally settle, although a small portion of them remains in the wine. The coloring matter and extractive principle remain, but change some- what by fermentation. Thus it is, that must containing a large amount of sugar*, needs a longer time to become clear, while that containing but a small portion soon becomes clear. Many southern wines retain a certain amount of sugar undecom- po3ed ; such are called sweet, or liqueur wines, whereas wines in which the whole of the sugar has been decom- posed in the fermentation, are called sour or dry wines. I have thought it necessary to be thus explicit to give my readers an insight into the general principles which should govern us in wine making. I have quoted freely from the excellent work of Dr. Gall. We will now see AND WIKE MAKING. 223 how we can reduce these principles to practice. I will illustrate by an example. NORMAL MUST. Experiments continued for a number of years have proved that, in favorable seasons, grape juice contains on an average in 1,000 pounds : Sugar 240 pounds. Acids 6 " Water T54 1,000 This proportion would constitute what I call a normal must. But suppose that in an inferior season the must contains, instead of the above, as follows : Sugar 150 pounds. Acids 9 " Water 841 " 1,000 What should we do to bring such a must to the condi- tion of a normal must ? We calculate thus : If, with 6 lbs. of acids in a normal must, there is 240 lbs. of sugar, how much is wanted for 9 lbs. of acids ? Answer. — 360 lbs. Our next problem is : If, with 6 lbs. of acids in a normal must, 754 lbs. of water appear, how much water is required for 9 pounds of acids ? Answer. — 1,131 lbs. As, therefore, the must which we intend to improve by neutralizing its acids, should contain 360 lbs. of sugar, 9 lbs. of acids, and 1,131 lbs. of water, but contains already 150 lbs. of sugar, 9 lbs. of acid, and 841 lbs. of water, there remain to be added, 210 lbs. of sugar, no acids, and 290 lbs. of water. By ameliorating a quantity of 1,000 lbs. of must, by 210 lbs. sugar, and 290 lbs. of water, we obtain 1,500 lbs. of must, consisting of the same properties as the normal must, which makes a first class wine. This is wine making in Europe, according to Dr. GalPs 224 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING method. Now let us see liow we can adapt it to Ameri- can grapes and wines. THE MUST OF AMERICAN GRAPES. If we closely examine the musts of most of our American grapes, we find that they not only contain an excess of acids in inferior seasons, but even a greater superabund- ance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and coloring mat- ter. There is such an abundance of flavor in many of them, that, were the quantity doubled by addition of sugar and water, there would still be an abundance. "With some varieties, such as Concord and Ives, if fer- mented on the husks, it is so strongly foxy, as to be dis- agreeable, and as the pulp of them is very tough and slippery, they can not be pressed clean without fermen- tation. We must, therefore, not only ameliorate the acid, but also the flavor and astringency, of which the tannin contained in the stems is the principal cause. Therefore, it is even more important to us than to Euro- pean wine-makers, to gain the knowledge to Gallize our wines properly. By proper management we can change must, which would otherwise make a disagreeable wine, into one in which everything is in its right proportion, and which will thus suit a customer to whose fastidious taste it would otherwise be repugnant. True, our grapes will ripen better here, so that we can, in most seasons, produce a wine without a great excess of acids, but the American taste requires a less acid wine any way, and we must dilute the aroma to make our wines salable. Here another difficulty presents itself. The riper a grape is, the more of its peculiar aroma will it develop, and if we would let our Concords hang until they are so ripe that the acid has been reduced to the proper proportion, the aroma becomes so strong that it is very repugnant to a refined taste. "What course remains then for us to take ? Shall we let our grapes hang until the acid is reduced, AN^D WINE MAKIITG. 225 and make an abominably, foxy wine, which no one will buy ? Or shall we gather our grapes when well colo^-ed, Galhze the must until the acid and flavor are reduced to the proper amount, and thus produce a very fair, light- red wine, palatable to most, and a refreshing and in- vigorating beverage to all ? I think the latter is the best course, and the only reasonable one. At that time the must of Concord grapes will gener- ally weigh about 65° to 70° on Oechsle's Scale, and the Acidimeter will indicate about 6°. Now we make our calculation as follows : A normal must, to suit the palate here, should indicate about 80°, and show 4° on the Acidimeter. To reduce the acid to 4° we must add one-third water, or, in other words, if we have 480 lbs. of Concord grapes, which would make 40 gallons of pure juice, we must add 20 gallons of water. To these 20 additional gallons of water, we must add 40 lbs. of the best crushed sugar, to bring the water up to the ratio of normal must, 80°. But we have also a discrepancy of 15° in the must if it indicated 65°. To bring this also up to 80° we must add three- eighths pound of sugar to every gallon of must, or 15 lbs. to the 40 gallons. The addition to 480 lbs. of grapes would then be as follows : 20 gallons of water, 55 lbs. of sugar, and no acid, making 60 gallons of must of normal proportions, instead of 40 of pure juice. These will be about the right proportions for a pleasant and hand- some wine, of good color, i3leasant flavor, and not too acid to suit the general taste, with also the proper pro- portion of tannin, which will be marketable sooner, and at a much higher price, than if we had allowed the grapes to hang a month longer, and then pressed the natural must, which would, perhaps, not contain an excess of acid then, but certainly an excess of foxy flavor and tannin. Different grapes will, of course, require different treat- 226 AMERICAK GSAPE GROWlKa ment. It is only by experimenting that we can find how mnph each variety should be Gallized to produce the best possible wine. Nor are the grapes alike in all sea- sons, and one season's product of the same grape may re- quire different treatment than the other. To illustrate a case in point : While experimenting with varieties, I had, in the summer of 1866, enough of Rulander grapes, then a new variety, to make 5 gallons of pure juice, which, when tried by the saccharometer, showed 104°. This was pressed and put into a 5-gallon cask. The husks were thrown back into the fermenting vat, and 5 gallons of water, with 15 lbs. of sugar added, bringing the water up to 100°, and fermented 48 hours, then pressed and put into another o-gallon cask. When press- ing these my vintner thought that there was too much flavor and character in the husks left to be thrown away, and he once more added 5 gallons of water, with 15 lbs. of sugar, and fermented this three days and three nights, then pressed, and put into a third 5-gallon cask. The wines became clear at about the same time, had nearly the same color, and when tested by several connoisseurs, they pronounced all good, but No. 2 the smoothest and finest wine ; No. 1 rather the fullest, but somewhat more astringent, while No. 3 was but little inferior to No. 2. This verdict was given without knowing how. the wines had been made. We then mixed the three wines, equal parts, in a tumbler, and upon testing, found the mixture a better wine than either was separately. The three, after this trial, were put together, and made a wine like very fine Golden Sherry, which took the first premium as best light-colored wine of any variety, at the Combined Exhibition of the Long worth Wine House and the American Grape Growers' Association, at Cincinnati, in 1867, in competition with over 30 samples of the finest Catawbas, Delawares, and Herbemont, as well as numer- ous other first premiums wherever exhibited. I have AND WIKE MAKING. 227 made hundreds of such experiments, modifying the treat- ment with the character of the variety. I know, there- fore, whereof I speak. Of course the above is an ex- treme case ; but few varieties have so much flavor and character as the Eulander, and the treatment which pro- duced so fine a wine from this grape, would have made a very flat '^ Maxatawney," a grape which has but little character. When making such experiments I made it a rule always to keep some of the pure juice by itself, for comparison, and the tests were, therefore, made with the greatest fairness, and with but one aim, that is, to ascer- tain how the best possible wine could be made from any variety. Were I to give more of these experiments here, my readers would, perhaps, be even more astonished than I was, at the results ; but facts are stubborn, and can not be controverted. Seeing, and in this instance, tasting, is believing, and as I kept a very careful record of all cellar operations, there could be no mistakes. I will here quote one of my first experiments made with very imperfectly ripened Catawba grapes, made in 1865, when that grape ripened very poorly, on account of mil- dew and rot. I found, on testing the must, that it would only show from 52° to 70°, while a normal Catawba must should weigh at least 80° in good seasons. My calcula- tions for making the additions which I knew were imper- atively necessary, were based upon the following reasons : If normal must weighs 80°, and this averages but 60°, there is a deficiency of half a pound of sugar to the gal- lon of must. But there should also be an excess of acid of at least one-third, as the Catawba has a superabund- ance of acid in even the most favorable seasons. I must, therefore, add at least one-third more water to dilute the acid, and to this water add 2 lbs. of sugar to each gallon, so that the whole mixture will weigh 80°. I did so, fermented all on the husks 36 hours, and the result was a very fine, golden-colored Cat-awba, which I sold 328 AMERICAN GBAPE GROWING before it was six months old, at the highest figures Ca- tawba wines were then bringing, to the first buyer who came and tasted it. As the Catawba constitutes yet, to a great extent, the product of Eastern and Northern vineyards, it may be well to give a few more hints to my readers on the man- agement of Catawba must. This variety contains, as already mentioned, a very large amount of acids, as well as a great deal of tannin and flavor. This must be ap- parent to every one who has ever eaten well-ripened Ca- tawba grapes. It has besides a very tough and acid center or pulp, of which every one can convince himself when eating even the most thoroughly ripened Catawba grapes. The first taste is delightful, but let him press the pulp and skins closely and he will find that the after taste is sour and rough. Of course fermentation extracts all this, and while the Catawba contains all the ingredi- ents for a palatable wine, these two are present to a very great excess, and make the wine sour, astringent, and unpalatable. What then is necessary ? We must simply add water and sugar, even in the best vintages, to ameli- orate this, and much more in inferior seasons, and we will make better wines than are now in the market and much more wholesome, than the so-called " Sweet Ca- tawbas," which are villainous compounds of unripe gi'ape juice, raw spirits, and syrup added after fermentation, and afford an excuse for the habitual tippler to say that he drinks only wine, not whiskey. It would be better if he did take spirits so far as the effects on his system are concerned, for such mixtures intoxicate nearly as much, and the deleterious stuff they contain is only glossed over by the syrup. If Catawba wine is rationally Gall- ized, it makes a very pleasant, high-flavored wine, and those who prefer to have it still sweeter, can add sugar when drinking it, to suit their taste. If this were done, we would have no need of these '^ Sweet Catawbas " AJ^D AVIKE MAKING. 229 which now disgrace the wine trade of the country, and pure, light wine would have a better chance to become the universal beverage of the people. I do not pretend to give fixed rules to do this ; even were I competent, the product varies too much with the locality and the season. I merely attempt to show the way. Let every one experi- ment, and note the results, and he will soon see how far he should go to make the best wine, for he should not go farther. Let the best product always be his aim, not quantity. The Concord, now so generally grown, is another va- riety which is immensely improved by Gallizing, and, as before remarked, to make the most palatable wine, should not be allowed to get too ripe. When the grapes are fully and evenly colored on the bunch, it is time to gather it, and I would rather add more sugar, than wait until it is fully ripe, as then its flavor becomes too strong and apparent. The same rule may be applied to the Martha, which is best when fairly ripe, but when over- ripe loses its sprightli^iess, and becomes foxy, while its wine is, when made in time, fully as good as the best Catawba. The addition of from one-third to one-half water and sugar, or in other words, from two-thirds to one gallon of water and sugar to every 12 lbs. of grapes, and the whole mixture brought to 80° on Oechsle's Scale, fermented about 36 to 48 hours on the husks, in a tem- perature of 75°, will generally make the most palatable wine, from most of the Lahrusca class and their hybrids. The Goethe, under the same treatment, will make an ex- cellent white wine, sprightly and pleasant, with just enough of its fine Frontignan flavor to make it agreeable. Those who wish to satisfy themselves, can easily make the experiment, as I did, cautiously, and step by step. Let them make a small quantity of pure juice- wine, so- called, and compare it with wines made at the same time, of the same grapes, but Gallized more or less, and 230 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWIITG keep a careful record of the operation. This was my method, and I aimed always at improving the quality ; so soon as I found the quality diminished, I considered it time to stop, while so long as the quality improved, I thought it safe to advance. Consider each variety a separate subject for experiment, it will not do to trust to surmises and gness work, nor can any rule be given that will apply to all varieties alike. So far I have spoken mostly of the Labruscas and their hybrids. When we come to the cestivalis class we have entirely different material to deal with, and while we may, and can, by judicious Gallizing, improve some of them, and make them smoother and more palatable, yefc with those which are used chiefly for medical purposes [as Norton's Virginia, which has become a great remedy for dysen- tery, bowel complaints, and cholera infantum], it will be better to let the grapes hang until they are dead ripe. Stem them before crushing, add very little or no water, and ferment on the husks for a week, or even longer. Their flavor is not objectionable, and the object here is, to make an astringent and heavy wine, and develop all the medicinal qualities which that grape possesses in such an eminent degree. To make simply a good Claret from it, of course it can be Gallized, and will make even a more pleasant wdne for every day use. This class, however, also differs as much in its varieties as the La- hrusca. I have already cited an example of the Eulander, which has a decided Sheny flavor. The Hermann, a seedling of the Norton's, is another with a strong Sherry character, so marked that the pure juice has too strong a flavor, yet when properly Gallized it makes a delightful deep-yellow wine, equal to any Golden Sherry, and the white seedling from it seems to be a still greater improve- ment, as it is much more delicate and juicy than its parent. And here let me make a prediction, to which long yeare of careful observation have led me, and ' which a:n^d wtne making. 231 is shared by all of the prominent grape-growers of the State, so far as I know. It is this, that the grape-grow- ers of the State, if they turn their attention chiefly to the best of the mstivalis, the Cynthiana, Norton's Vir- ginia, Neosho, and others, which have not been so fully tried, will, at no distant day, excel the products of the choicest vineyards of the European Continent, and may safely challenge the world in the production of the choicest Burgundies, Clarets, and Sherries, and the sooner we turn our attention to them the better. Cali- fornia, and even the East, may excel us in the quantity, and rival us in the qu^ity of white wines, but from all the information I can obtain, they can not come near to our red wines, which are even now the equals of the best wines of Burgundy. This is our proper field, and the sooner we concentrate our energies upon it, the better will it be for us. They are, at the same time. Phylloxera- proof, and we need not fear that they will ^^go back" upon us. In the cordifolia we have still another material. The grapes of this class may be said to occupy a position be- tween the Lahruscas and the cestivalis class. Nearly all contain considerable acid, and an abundance of flavor, and are much improved by judicious Gallizing ; but as their skin and pulp is tender, they need not be fermented on the husks for any length of time. Twenty-four hours of lively fermentation will generally be suflBcient for the Elvira, Taylor, and Clinton. They pvomise to furnish us another class of wines, and as they are also Phylloxera- proof, we may consider these two classes as the founda- tion of future grape growing. AVe have but just com- menced experimenting with this class, but the great success achieved by Mr. Rommel and others justify the most sanguine hopes. I was particularly struck with some wines shown me by Mr. James Ricketts, from sev- eral Clinton seedlings, foremost among which are the 232 AMEKICAN GKAPE GROWING Bacchus and Ariadne. They show a new class of wines, light red in color, of great body, and very peculiar flavor. Should these varieties prove to be adapted to more gen- eral culture, we may expect some remarkable wines from them. Of course these are only general hints, which are cal- culated to show my wine-making friends the way they must go, to make palatable and wholesome wines. I shall not attempt to go into details about varieties, as even these differ so much in different localities that no rules for their treatment could be given to apply in all cases. Nor do I pretend to be perfect, but I am convinced more and more every day, how little I yet know, and how much I have to learn. In all my experiments I aimed to -come as near the normal must of the variety I experimented with as possi- ble, in the specific gravity of the water and must, when mixed. I have no doubt that we also have much to learn yet in the judicious mixing of several kinds of grapes. Experiments in that line have already shown astonishing results, and the art of blending and cutting wines, so well understood and practised in the best cellars of Eu- rope, is yet in its infancy here, but will, no doubt, have a great influence upon our future products. But this art can only be based upon a thorough knowledge of the characteristics of each individual variety, and he who undertakes the task must bring to it a peculiar talent and highly developed taste, as well as the nicest discrimi- nation of the traits of each variety. If our grape growing and wine making had the experience of several centuries to look back upon, we could base our operations upon certain knowledge. Now we are feeling our way. The pioneers who first made the clearings in our woods, greatly rejoiced when they could eat the first hoe-cake from the corn their industry had planted in the wilder- ness, and still more enjoyed the rolls made of their first AND WINE MAKING. 233 wheat. Like them are we overjoyed at what we have achieved, and know that the grape, so lately but the child of these same forests, is susceptible of as much im- provement and as great a change, as that which converted the old time clearing, with its simple log cabin, into the pleasant homestead with its smiling and tasteful lawn and orchard, rich with golden fruits. And those who intend to be the winners in this race, must have the pluck and perseverance of the old frontier pioneers, hoping always, even in the most gloomy times, for brighter days, and never doubting of the end. Dr. Gall recommended grape sugar as the best to be used for Gallizing. This is made from potato starch, but all the samples I have yet tried are not pure enough, and leave an unpleasant, bitter taste in the wine. I have, therefore, used the best and purest cane sugar, and as it also dissolves more readily in water, I prefer it, and have found it to answer every purpose. I have lately tasted a sugar made from the Minnesota or Early Amber cane, which seems to be well adapted to the purpose, and if the production of its sugar assumes the dimensions it now promises, we may have an important advantage over our former method, in a cheaper and better article of sugar. The best cane sugar when dissolved in water in the proportion of 2 lbs. of sugar to the gallon, will show upon the scale about 80°. In making additions to Catawba, Goethe, Martha, Elvira, and all the lighter wines, it takes about 2 lbs. of sugar to the gallon of water, to produce the weight of normal must of these va- rieties. For Norton's Virginia, Cynthiana, Rulander, and all the heavier wines, it will take, at least, '^''/^ lbs. of sugar to the gallon of water, as their normal must ranges from 100° to 110°, and sometimes 120°, in the product of the best seasons. As a general rule it may be assumed, however, that our native grapes, with their strong flavor and abundance 234 AiMERICAJsT GRAPE GROWING of tannin and coloring matter, will admit, nay, require, much more Gallizing than the more delicate and finer flavored grapes of Europe. How far we can go with each variety I do not presume to say, and only experience can safely guide us here. It must be apparent to every one who is ever so slightly acquainted with wine making, how Avidely different the varieties are in their characteristics and constituents. I have tried only to give an out- line of the necessary operations, as well as the prin- ciples underlying the science of wine making, have quoted facts, only so far as I have become familiar with them through long practice and observation. No one can be better convinced than I am, how much we have yet to learn, and how wide the field that lies before us. I have been severely censured for the open advocacy of the method of Dr. Gall, even by those who have practised it as zealously and not alwaj^s confined themselves as much to its true limits as I have tried to do. Many of our best wine-makers think that we should keep the knowledge we have gained to ourselves, and profit by it in secret, in- stead of openly facing a prejudice which we know to exist. But it has always been a deep-seated conviction Avith me that knowledge, like God's sun, should be the common property of all ; that it is a duty every citizen owes to the community in which he lives, to impart freely what he may know, to every one. Only thus can we progress in this fast age, where progress is the watchword. Truth and justice need never fear the light, they can only gain by close investigation. And here let us look at the probable effects these methods of improvement are likely to have upon grape culture, and ask ourselves : Is there anything repre- hensible in them, any reason why they should not be- come generally known ? I think the answer is easily found. Gallized wines contain nothing, which fermented grape juice, in its purest and most perfect condition, does AKD WIKE MAKING. 235 not also contain. They are, therefore, as pure as any grape juice can be, with the consideration in their favor, that they contain all the ingredients in their proper pro- portion. It is a matter of course that careless and slovenly work- ers have failed, and will continue to fail, in making good wine by this, or any other method, but this cannot be used as an argument against it. To make a good article the peculiarities of each variety must be closely studied, and we must not think that water and sugar will ac- complish everything. Its use should be limited, and be- comes abuse as soon as it oversteps that limit. But I will hope that I have contributed my mite to the fund of universal knowledge, and if this little volume only aids every farmer in the land, who can grow grapes, to make a few barrels of pure, light wine for family use, to take the place of poor whiskey and brandy, now the bane and curse of so many households, I am more than repaid for the labor of many a lonely early morning hour it has cost me. Mine has been an incessantly busy life, and the time for these scribblings has been stolen mostly from the '"small, still hours." I know of no holidays, and have often had to force exhausted nature to the task. This must be my excuse for its many imperfec- tions. But I flatter myself that I am not entirely mis- taken, when I think I send it on a temperance mission, perhaps more true and, therefore, more effective than any Murphy movement. I have always looked upon the gen- eral use of pure, light wine as the best temperance mea- sure that could be adopted. A glass of wine, used early in the morning, I have found to be the best preventive against malaria, and nothing revives the sinking energies of the worn out laborer better during a hot summer day, as I know from actual experience. I have known it to save life in dangerous diseases, and could cite many in- stances did time and space permit. 236 AMEEICAN GRAPE GROWIl^G Let us all then further the cause of grape-culture. The laborer by producing fruit, the mechanic by inven- tions, the scientist by improving our methods, the law- giver by wise laws in its favor, and all others by using its products in moderation, as one of the best gifts from the fountain of all that is good, pure, and beautiful. CHAPTEE XLVII. WINE MAKING RENDERED EAST.— CONCLUSION. Perhaps it may have seemed as if I was only writing for the benefit of those who can follow gi-ape growing and wine making on a larger scale, with abundant means at their command, to build commodious cellars, plant large vineyards, and hire laborers to do the work. This is not the case, however. If I have given the outlines of larger operations it is because our object should always be to attain perfection in everything ; I have never for a moment lost sight of the interests of those, who, like myself, have to commence at the lowest round of the ladder, who have to make a small beginning, and work their way up through untold difficulties. There is not an operation in the vineyard, from the clearing of the unbroken forest and prairie, to the finishing touch given to the wine at its last racking, which I have not performed and am not thoroughly familiar with, and I can, there- fore, fully sympathize with the poor laborer, who has nothing but his industrious hands, and an honest in- tention to succeed. While it may hardly be advisable now, in these days of low prices and light demand for wine, to begin grape growing as a means of support, with the hope of realiz- ing a handsome income from it in the course of a few AND WINE MAKING. ^Z7 years, yet there is no reason why every farmer should not have a small vineyard, grow his own grapes, and make his barrel or two of wine, or why every owner of a garden should be without enough grapes for the use of the family. Grape-vines of the more common varieties are very cheap now, and an outlay of $5 to $10 will buy one hundred to two hundred vines — enough to make a start with. Plant these, at any rate, if you cannot do more, and grow your own vines hereafter to enlarge your vineyard. Wire for trellis is also very cheap now, and it is not needed the first year or two. A few hundred vines can be easily kept in order before breakfast ; let the children help you, they can do a great deal of the lighter work, and will learn to take a delight in it. And when your first crop of grapes ripens, and you can make a few barrels of wine, if you have no press or commodious cellar, you can find a cider press somewhere, and room in the cellar of one of your neighbors to store it. One of our most successful wine- growers commenced his operations with a simple hole in the ground, dug under his house, and his first wine-press was merely a large beam, let into a tree, which acted as a lever upon the grapes, with a press bed, also of his own making. His vineyard and wine cellars are now among the best in the county, and although he no longer lives to enjoy it, his family are left in affluent circumstances, and grape growing alone has made them wealthy. Be- sides, we have got down to the lowest prices, and as the prospects for the grape-growers of the Old World, and even of California, darken on account of the Phylloxera, our own begin to brighten. We know that we have something we can depend upon, and feel that better days will come again for the grape-growers and wine- makers of the country. Of course it is not advisable to keep the wine over summer in an indifferent cellar, but if it is good, as it 238 AMEKICAN GRAPE GROWING ought to be, you can easily dispose of it as soon as clear. Or you can dispose of your grapes, if you can not or will not make them into wine, to some neighbor, or market them yourself. Nearly all of our small country towns afford a ready market for a small quantity, indeed often a better one than do the large cities. Another way to make grape growing and wine making easy, is to form grape and fruit colonies. There are lo- cations enough in all the States of the Union, where suit- able lands for this purpose can be had cheap. The ad- vantages of such colonies can be easily seen. If each one has a small piece of suitable land (and he does not need a large tract for this business), they can assist each other in plowing and sub- soiling, and will thus be able to do with fewer animals, by preparing the soil first for one, then for the other, the ravages of birds and insects will hardly be felt, the neighbors can join together in building a cellar, where all can store their wine, and of which one can take the management. They can market their product easier, obtain better prices, and lower rates of transportation to large cities, than single indi^^duals, and also make a bet- ter and more uniform product. There are thousands of acres of land well adapted for the purpose, in Missouri and other States, which could be had at very low prices, where the virgin soil waits only the bidding of intelligent and combined labor, to bring forth the richest fruits. There is room for thousands — may it soon be filled with willing hearts and hands to undertake the task. If our hopes are not so sanguine, the immediate gains not as great, as they were fifteen years ago — yet we have a surer basis to work upon than at that time, and our so- bered expectations are more apt to be realized, and even excelled, than then. If we aim at the best products only, rather than at quantity, we are not so likely to overstock the market, and the increased prices we obtain will more AND WINE MAKING. 239 than make np for it. It is much easier to make a start, lahor is cheaper, vines are lower, and all the material we use, as well as the land, is lower, and it will be safe to assume that it will not cost half as much to obtain a start now as then. We will have to work early and late, however, with head and hands, for it is not an easy task upon which the grape-grower enters. It is not the life of a sluggard, nor the romantic idyl of poetic leisure. But what of that ? Our task is the production of one of God's noblest gifts to man, and we will follow it with hopeful hearts, in the confidence that He will send His sunshine as well as His showers, to gladden our hearts and to further our work, until it is crowned by a rich harvest of purple and golden clusters, and their juice is changed into '^ Wine that maketh glad the heart of man." INDEX Acidimeter, TwitcheH's. . 201-217 ^stivalis Class 54 Arbors, Vines Upon 93 Barney, Hon. Hiram 185 Baskets for Packing 122 Bateham, M. B., Grapes and Wine in Ohio 135 Birds in the Vineyard 114 Border of Vines 109 Bottling Wine 211 Burr's, John, Seedlings 191 California, Grape Culture in Fres- no Co 162 " Grape Culture in Napa Co 166 " Grape Culture in Sono- ma Co 169 " Phylloxera Problem in. .186 Cam bre, Eugene, on Graf ting 25 Campbell, Geo. W., Grape Culture in Southern Ohio 127 Carrying Vat = 203 Casbin, T. D., Grape Culture in Maryland 174 Cashin's Trellis 176 Casks 199 " Preparing 206 Catawba Must Gallized 227 Cellar Furniture 198 CJasses of Grapes, ^stivalis 54 •' " " Cordifolia ,.,. 55 " " '• Labrusca 35 " " " Riparia 65 C olonies for Grape Growing 238 Cordifolia Class 65 Cornelius, Mr., Method of Grafting. 25 Cost of hstahlishing a Vineyard. . .191 Crabb, H. W., Viticulture in Napa Co., Cal 169 Crooked Lake, N. Y., Grapes .123-142 Cultivation of Vineyard 87 Cuttings, Grafted. 26 Discarded Labrusca Varieties 53 " ^stivalis Varieties 65 Diseases of the Vine 402 " "Greeley Rot ''.140 " Mildew on Kel- ley's Island.. 140 of Wine 211 240 Drainage on Kelley's Island 138 Draining the Soil 31 Dresel, Julius, Viticulture in Sono- ma Valley, Cal 166 Egg Harbor, N. J., Wines 190 Eckel, Rudolph, Grape Growing in W. Texas 159 Eisen, Gustaf , Culture of the Grape in California 162 Engelmann, Dr., on Native Grapes 13 Fermentation 206 Changes Caused by. 222 " the Second 210 Fermenting on the Husks... 207 Frosts, Protection from 115 Fruit, Thinning 95-118 Funnel for Wine 200 Gall, Dr., OnWineMaking 218 Gallizing 214 " Gallonizing " 214 Gathering and Marketing Fruit 121 Grapes for Wine .... 124-202 Girdling the Vine 117 Golden Willow for Tying 91 Grafting. Advantages of 22 Methods 23 Upon Cuttings 26 Grape and Fruit Colonies 238 " Cholera 104 Grape Culture in California. 162-166-1 69 " and Wine Making on Crooked Lake, N.Y.142 " In Maryland 174 " In Missouri 180 In Southern Ohio 127 " In Southern Texas.. .145 '* In Tennessee 182 In Western Texas, ... 159 On Kelley's Island, 0.138 Grapes, Classification of.. 11 '• European 12 " Natives Species of 12-151 Scissors 120 " Time to Gather for Wine. .202 What to Plant 31 When Ripe 121 Grape-Sugar 233 Gray Rot 104 Horizontal Arm Training 90-101 INDEX. 241 House Cellar for Wine 195 Husks and Lees— Uses for 212 Hybrids of Labrusca - . . 35 Inarching the Vine 2i Insects, Injurious to the Grape 105 Aphis 112 Beetles Ill Bees 113 " Camel Cricket 113 " Cut-worm Ill Devil's Horse 113 " Grape- Vine Fidia 112 " Grape-Vine Root Louse 105 " Grape-Vine Sphinx 112 " Grasshopper 112 LadyBug 113 Leaf -Folders 93-111 " Mantis 113 " Phylloxera 105 " Plant Louse. ....' 112 Rear-Horse 113 " Rocky Mountain Locust. .112 " Root-Louse of the Grape.. 105 Thrips 112 Useful 113 '' Wasps 113 Iowa— White Elk Vineyards 1&4 Jaeger's, Hermami, Seedlings. ...... 64 Keeping Grapes 122 Kelley's Island, 0.,Grape Culture on. 138 Keuka Lake, N. Y., Grapes at 142 Labrusca Class 35 Langendoerfor's, F., Seedlings ... 62 Laterals, Treatment of 93 Layering to Fill Vacancies 9T Leaves, Removal of 118 Location and Soil for Vineyard 28 Madinger's, Jacob, Seedlings 53 Manuring the Vine 97 Maryland, Grape Culture in 174 Mildew 103 Miller, Sam., on Early Winter 191 Mill For Grapes 199 Missouri, Grape Culture in .. 183 Muench, Hon. F., on Grape Culture in Missouri 180 Must, Its Cliange Into Wine 219 " Normal 215-223 " of American Grapes 224 Must-Scale 200-216 Oechsles' Must Scale 200-216 Ohio, Grape Culture and Wine- Making in 135 11 Ohio, Southern, Grape Culture in.. 127 Old Vines, Renewal of 119 Onderdonk, G., on Grape Growing in Southern Texas 145 " on The Grapes of Texas 151 " Memoranda on Grape.153 " on The Vineyard in Texas 154 Packages for Marketing 122 Phylloxera Problem in California... 186 Pincliing the Laterals 93 " Young Shoots 92 Planchon, Prof., on Phylloxera 106 Planting the Vine 81 Pleasant Valley "Wine Co 143 Poeschel & Scherer, Success in Grafting 22 Press for Grapes 198 Propagation, l)y Cuttings 19 " by Grafting 22 " by Inarching 24 " by Layers 21 " by Seeds 16 Protection in Winter 115 Pruning and Training 87 Pruning Saw 120 Pruning Shears 119 Racking the Wine 208 Raisins in California 172 Riparia Class 65 Ripeness, How Known ..121 Ripening, To Hasten 117 Ricketts'. J. H., His Seedlings 51 Riley, Prof. C.V., on Phylloxera-lOS-lO? Rommell's, Jacob, Seedlings 65-70 Rulander Wine,Experim.nts With. 226 Saccharometer 200-216 Seudling Vines 17 Seeds, Sowing 17 Soil and Location for Vineyard 28 Soil, Preparation of 30 Spotted or Brown Rot 104 Sugar Used in Wine Making 233 Tennessee, Grape Culture Near Chattanooga 182 Texas, Grape Growing in Southern. 145 " " " in Western.. 159 " Native Grapes of 151 Thinning the Fruit 95-118 Training as Border 100 " Horizontal Arm 101 Spiral 175 242 IKDEX. Training Horizontal Zig Zag 175 in Stool Form 99 in Western N.Y 100 " on Arbors and Walls 9S to Stakes.. 99 Trellis, Cashin's 176 To Build 85 Tubs in Wine Making ..200 Tying Material .91 UrbanaWineCo 142 Vacancies, To Fill 97 Vallet's, Jno., Method of Grafting: 21 Vat for Carrying Grapes 203 Vats for Fermenting 199 Varieties of Grapes— Synonyms in Italics. Alvcy 63 Amber 70 Aminia 43 Ariadne . 75 Bacchus.. 74 Baldwin Lenoir 63 Barry 43 Beauty 44 Black Defiance 44-1.33 Black Eagle 44-133 mack July 6:3-146 Black Jnly (Berckmans') 1&4 Black Spanish 61-145-161 Black Spanish in Texas 159 Bloomsburg 77 Brighton ... 46 Brighton in Ohio 130 Bullace . 15 Bush 151 Catawba 35 Catawissa Bloom 77 Christine 43 Clinton 76 ColumMa County ^. 77 Concord 35 Concord in Ohio 12S Cottage 53 Creveling 77 Cunningham 61 Cunningham (Berckmans') 153 Cynthiana 54 Delaware 77 Delaware in Ohio 131 Bevereux 61 Duchess 47 Dunn 153 Early Champion . Early Dawn Early Winter Elvira 44 ,191 Elvira in Ohio. Essex Eva .131 Far West Frost German Gi^ape . Goethe 45 64 14 77 36 Golden Delaware 175 Hagar 63 Harwood. . 153-157 Heath 77 Herbemont 58 Herbemont in Texas 157 Herhemont's Madeira 58 Hermann 62 Highland 51 mdian Wine , 77 Ives 39 Jack 61 Jacques 61 Jefferson 51-133 Lady 45 Lady in Ohio 129 Lady Washington 51-133 Laura Beverly 77 Lenoir 61-145 Lenoir (Berckmans') 154 Lincoln 63 Lindley.... 39 Long 61 Mabel 134 Martha 39 Massasoit 39 Missouri Riesling^ 74 Moore's Early 46 Moore's Early in Ohio 130 Muscadine 15 Mustang 151 Naomi 75 Neosho 63-65 Niagara 46-132 Noah 74 Northern Fox 13 Norto?i's Seedling 57 Norton's Virginia 57 Pearl 73 Perkins 40 Pizarro 74 Planet 52 INDEX. 243 Pocklingtoa 47-132 Prentiss.... 48-133 Seedling No. 1 51 No. 2 51 Purity 78-130 Racine . . . 05 Red River 54 Ricketts' No. 1 52 No. 11 52 No. 502 52 No. 250 52 No. a31 52 No. 231 75 No. 234 75 No. 413 75 Riverside 14 Rogers' Hybrids No. 1 36 No. 4 43 No. 7 39 '•• " No. 39 43 No. 41 36 No. 43 43 Rommell's No. 14 73 No 20 73 Rulander 62 Salem 43 Scuppernnng 78 Southern ^stivalis 152 Southern Fox 15 Storm King ^3 Summer 13 Taylor 76 Telegraph 43 Traminer 77 Transparent 70 Triumph 45 IJhland 73 . Virginia Seedllnj . . . 57 Wairen .. 58 Warren in Texas ... 157 Wa7rento % 58 White Norton, Balsiger's 65 White Norton, Langendoerfer' 8 65 Wilder .. 43 Willis 134 Winter 14 Worden's Seedling 130 Varieties, Choice of 31 " Difficult to Classify 77 " for Different Localities.79 80 Vine. Diseases of 102 Vines to Plant 81 '"■ Treatment the First Summer. 84 " •' " Second " 87 " Tliird " 91 " " *" Fourth " 96 Vineyard, Cost of 191 '• Cultivation 87 " in Texas ... 154 "•' Location and Soil 28 Vitis sestivalis 13 " candicans 151 " cordifolia 14 " Labrusca 13 " riparia 14 " rupestris 151-160 " vinifera 12 " vuipina 15-78 White Elk Vineyards 181 Wine, After Treatmunt 210 '■ Bottling 211 " Cellar 193 " " Snbstitutefor 198 " Diseases of 211 " Flat and Turbid 211 " Making' 195 " Gall's and Pctiol's Method 213 " " on Crooked Lake .... 143 " " Made Easy 236 " at Egg Harbor, N.J 190 " Dry 223 " Sweet 223 " White or Red 205 Winter Protection 115 Wires for Trellis 85 THE AMERICAIT AGRICULTURIST, FOR THE FARM, GARDEN, AND HOUSEHOLD. Estnblislied in 184S. 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