nnnDDnnnDDnnnDDannDDDDaDDDDnnDaD D - m \zS /B " '-' □ ^ ^S^/m ^ n D D g UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS g g LIBRARY g D D D D D D D =!==^=^===== D D D D D D SPECIAL □ D COLLECTIONS D D D D D ° 74 g g p8r88 g g 1851 g D D ° H Q nTTprp nt? y a GIFT OF a n D D □ g THE FRIEMDS OF THE LIBRARY H D D ° S D D ° 9 D □ DnnnnnnnDDDDDnDnnDDnDnnnDDnnnDnD «tt; )!^ u I4. >^ PILGRIM MEMORIALS, GUIDE VISITORS TO PLYMOUTH TILLAGE: A LITHOGRAPHIC MAP, SEVEN COPPERPLATE ENGRAVINGS. By WM. S. RUSSELL, RECORBING SECRETARY OP THE PILGRIM SOCIETY. Yea, when the fro-wning bulwarks That guard this holy strand Have sunk beneath the trampling surge In beds of sparkling sand, While in the waste ot ocean One hoary rock shall stand, Be this its latest legend — IIere was the Pilgrim's Lank. Oliver Wendell Holmes. BOSTON: PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, BY C. C. P. MOODY, Old Dickinson Office — 52 Washington Street. 1851. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, By V>M. S. RUSSELL, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. PREFACE The following pages are designed to afford the means of ready access to the more promi- nent events and interesting localities connected with the landing of the Pilgrims to which the attention of visitors is naturally directed on their first arrival at Plymouth. Under the different heads, as arragned in the Index, (pp. vii. and viii.) full descriptions will be found of Forefather's Rock, the Ship Mayflower, Buti^ying Hill,Leyden Street, Cole's Hill, Clark's Island, Pilgrim Hall, and other points of an- tiquarian interest, which, with the aid of a lithographic map of Plymouth Village, having explanatory references appended, and seven copperplate engravings, tending to illustrate Hhe very age and body of the time,' it is believed IV will, in some good measure, answer the inquiries of the visitor, and accomplish the object aimed at in this publication. The undersigned improves the present occa- sion, to inform the numerous friends who have expressed their interest in a proposed second edition of the ' Guide to Plymouth and Kecol- lections of the Pilgrims,' that the same is in progress, and will appear whenever the requisite time can be spared from the claims of other duties, to insure its satisfactory completion. WM. S. KUSSELL. Plymouth, August, 1851. EXPLANATION OF ENGRAVINGS, 1st. Lithographic Map of Plymouth Village. 2d. View of Plymouth from the Buri^ing Hill. 3cl. Landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, Dec. 11,* 1620. 4th. Fac Similes. Brewster, Bradford, Winslow, Standish and AUerton came in the Mayflower ; the others came in the Fortune or Ann, excepting Constant and Thomas Southworth, who came about the year 162ck'& Gazetteer, Edit. 1S33. It is perhaps well deserving our attention,, as illustrating the growth of commerce in America, that our present tonnage exceeds that owned by all Europe, at the time of embarkation, when our rivers, bays and oceans pos- sessed no better means of water communication, than a birch canoe, or by way of improvement, a log of the larger class, dug out, with much labor, by some Indian shipwrighL what were deemed adequate repairs, both vessels put to sea again on the 21st of August. After proceeding about one hundred leagues beyond the land's end of England, Mr. Reynolds again complained of his ship, and the danger of foundering, if they proceeded on the voyage, when both vessels entered the harbor of Ply- mouth. On a second examination of the Speedwell, no particular injury seemed to have been sustained, and the general weakness of the ship was assigned as the cause of difficulty, though it afterwards appear- ed, that the deception of Reynolds and others was the main cause of the serious and repeated delays to which they had been subjected, and which proved highly in- jurious to their future interests. It was now deter- mined to dismiss the Speedwell, and such part of the whole company as could not be accommodated in the Mayflower.* It was decided that Mr. Cushman and his family, and others, about twenty in all, should retm-n to London. Another sad parting scene occur- red, and the Mayfloiver^ on the 6th day of September, once more spread her canvass to a favorable breeze. But the fair prospects which cheered the pilgrims, when leaving the shores of England for the last time, * Thouf^h it is not improbable, that as respected some of the passengers app linted to return in the Speedwell with Mr. Cushman, reference was had to their relative ability to aid in the arduous labor of establishing the in- tended colon)', there seems no reason to conclude, as some historians have intimated and asserted, that they were timid or discouraged. The spirit, not of fear, but of a sound mind, appears to have generally pervaded the whole body of emigrants ; and Robert Cushman was the last individual amojDg them on whose character for self-devotion, intelligence and courage, the slightest breath of suspicion should rest. 6 were soon clouded ; contrary winds opposed their pro- gress ; fierce storms assailed them ; the upper works of the ship were injured, and she became leaky ; one of the main beams was wrenched from its place ; serious doubts existed whether it w^ould be practicable to pur- sue the voyage ; and a consultation of the principal seamen and passengers was held. But the ship prov- ing strong under water, the beam was restored to its proper position by means of a screw, strongly secured by the carpenter, and they continued their voyage. 'And so, after many boisterous storms, in which they could bear no sail, but were forced to lie at hull for many days together, after long being at sea, (on the 9th of Nov.) they fell in with the land, called Cape Cod, the which being made and certainly known to be it, they were not a little joyful.' FOREFATHERS' ROCK. A Kock in the wilderness welcomed onr sires, v. From bondage far over the dark rolling sea ; On that holy altar they kindled the fires, Jehovah ! which glow in our bosoms for thee. Ano'ymous. The Forefathers' Rock, so attractive to the curiosity of visitors, excepting that part of it which is now enclosed within the railing in front of Pilgrim Halh retains the same position it occupied two hundred and thirty years ago, when the founders of New Eng- land first landed on our shores, and introduced the arts of civilization, the institutions of religion, civil govern- ment and education, upon the ba&is of just and equal rights, which from that memorable day to the present time, have secured the general good of the whole com- munity, to an extent probably unexampled in any equal period of human experience, ' It is not a little curious that one loose rock on the shore of Plymouth harbor, should have become so fa- mous as is that called the " Pilgi'im Rock," where there is not known in the township a single ledge save those the fisherman reaches with his lead at various points of the coast. " Pilgrim Rock " is one of these boulders — itself an older pilgrim than those who landed on it. It is an extremely hard variety of Sien- itic granite, of a dark gi'ey color. The mica is in very small quantity, in fine black particles. The rock, by its rounded edges, bears evidence of its rolled charac- ter, as well as of the attempts to break specimens from it ; which fortunately its extreme hardness renders sel- dom successful. This rock is now in two pieces, each piece about four feet through.'* That part now at the water's side is about six and a half feet in diameter, and is situated on the south side of the store now occu- pied by Phinheas Wells, at the head of Hedge's wharf, a few feet only from the same. The visitor frequently inquires, is this the veritable rock which first received the Pilgiims ? Happily we are able to answer his question with perfect confidence. Besides the general and undisputed tradition which designates it as that on which the fathers landed, it * Extract from a Geological Account of Plymouth. 8 was ascertained to be the same on an interesting occasion in the life of Elder Thomas Faunce, the last ruling elder in the first church of Plymouth, who was born in the year 1646, and died in the year 1745, at the advanced age of ninety-nine years. In the year 1741, the elder upon learning that a wharf was about to be built near, or over the rock, which up to that period had kept its undisturbed position at the water's edge, and fearing that the march of improvement might subject it to injury, expressed much uneasiness. Though residing three miles from the village of Plym- mouth, and then in declining health, he left home, and in the presence of many citizens, pointed out the rock we have described as being that on Vvhich the Pilgrims with whom he v/as cotemporary, and well ac- quainted, had uniformly declared to be the same on which they landed in 1620. Upon this occasion this venerable and excellent man took a final leave of this cherished memorial of the fathers. The cu-cumstances above related, were frequently mentioned by the late Hon. Ephraim Spooner, deceased, Vv^ho was present upon the occasion connected with Elder Faunce. He was deacon of the Church of Plymouth forty-one years, and fifty-two years town clerk, and died March, 1818, aged eighty-three years. The same information was communicated by ]\Irs. Jonana White, widow of Gid- eon "White, deceased, who was intimately acquainted in the family of Eider Faunce. She died in 1810, aged ninety-five years. And the same account has been transmitted by other aged persons, now deceased, with- in the recollection of many now Hving. On the anniversary celebration of the landing of the fathers, in 1817, the late Rev. Horace Holly, deceased, delivered the customary address, and upon the morn- ing of that day had some hours' conversation with dea- con Spooner, above mentioned, in relation to early times, and among other interesting reminiscences learn- ed from him the incidents above narrated. Deacon Spooner had for many years been accustomed to read the hymn ' Hail Pilgrims,' line by line, according to an ancient practice of the church, and on this occasion officiated for the last time. Mr. Holly, inspired by his theme and the interview, in the course of his eloquent address, happily observed, ' our venerable friend knew and conversed with Elder Faunce, who personally knew the first settlers, so Polycarp conversed with St. John, the beloved disciple of our Saviour.' In the year 1774, some ardent whigs, to render available the patriotic associations connected with the rock, undertook its removal to the town square, with the intention to place over it a liberty pole, as an ex- citement to vigorous efforts in the approaching revolu- tionary struggle, and to quicken the zeal of such persons as hesitated to join the standard of independence. In this attempt at removal, the rock split asunder, which excited, as tradition avers, gi*eat surprise among the citizens present, and by some was construed into a favorable omen, indicating the final separation of the colonies from the mother country. This unexpected accident led to some hesitation among the excited group assembled, and the conclusion was to lower the under part of the rock into its original bed, from which 10 it had been elevated, and the other part was drawn by- twenty yoke of oxen to the Town Square ; when the far famed liberty pole was speedily erected over it, on which an appropriate poetic effusion of some ardent son of liberty was placed, urging the citizens to re- newed efforts in the cause of his country. These circumstances, in connection with the increas- ing curiosity of visitors, each of whom sought a small fragment, if no more, have sensibly diminished the size of the rock, rendering it necessary to prevent such de- predations in future, lest the ' first stepping stone to those who should come after,' might at last fail of a * local habitation and a name.' These considerations, it is hoped, may in some degree reheve the disappoint- ment occasionally expressed by strangers, on first view- ing this rock. It should further be recollected that a mammoth rock of granite would have been inconven- ient for the purpose of landing — particularly to the w^omen and children who shared in the glorious event. It is gratifying to announce, that a public town meeting was recently held, at which it was voted to convey sufficient land to certain individuals, for the purpose of removing the store of Mr. Hedge, northward and eastward, leaving room to erect a suitable monu- ment near the rock, and to enclose the same with an iron railing, reserving sufficient land for an unincum- bered walk round it. It has long been a subject of re- gret, that this memorial of the Landing has remained in its present situation, and there can be no doubt, that New England will cheerfully bestow the moderate sum required for an appropriate monument. On the fourth 11 of July, 1834, that part of the rock which had been taken to the town square, was removed and placed in front of Pilgi'im Hall, enclosed within an iron railing prepared for its reception, on which is inscribed the names of the forty-one individuals who subscribed the compact on board the Mayflower, at Cape Cod har- bor, Nov. 11, 1620. The honor of first stepping upon the rock is claimed by the descendants of Mary Chilton, in her behalf, and also by those of John Alden, in his favor — resting upon tradition in both families. It is evident that neither of them had the honor of first landing upon it. This occurred on the 11th of Nov. 1620, old style, cor- responding to Dec. 21st, new style, when the shallop of the Mayflower having left, on the 6th of December, the harbor of Cape Cod, coasted along the shore and was finally driven by storm into Plymouth, and found shelter at Clark's. Island. The shallop at this time had on board ten of the pilgi'ims, who had signed the com- pact, whose names were as follows : Capt. Standish, Master Carver, William Bradford, Edward AVinsIow, John Tilley, Edward Tilley, John Howland, Richard Warren, Stephen Hopkins, and Edward Dotey — from which it appears that John Alden was not among the number who first stepped on the rock. Besides the ten pilgrims above named, there were eight seamen, mak- ing in all, eighteen persons. The Mayflower arrived and anchored about one and a half miles from the town, between Clark's Island and Beach Point. When the passengers went on shore, in the ship's boat, it is not improbable that some rivalship occurred between Mary 12 Chilton and John Alden as to which should first land on the rock : and the young gallant doubtless yielded his claim to the lady — as might have been expected of the modest youth, who afterwards became the favored choice of Priscilla Mullens.* The conclusion, * Tradition states, that Captain Standish, after the death of his wife, pro- posed a matrimonial alliance with Miss Mullens, the daughter of William Mullens, and that John Alden was engaged as the messenger to announce his wishes. But the lad3', it seems, not so much enamored with the mili- tary renown of Standish as by the engaging address of the youthful advo- cate, dexterously hinted her opinion to that effect, by which course an end was put to all hope on the part of the distinguished military leader of the pilgrims. Without intending to discredit this ancient tradition, which has so long held its claim undisputed, in the families descended from Alden and Chil- ton, there seems to be sufficient grounds, for entering a protest, against the unbounded license assumed by fiction, originating from various quarters, both in a verbal and written form, in relation to this amusing incident of early times. The following facts are therefore stated as aids to truth in the matter. Rose, the wife of Standish, died Jan. 29th, — and William Mullens, /{ 2jthe father of Priscilla, Feb. 21, 162$. Edward Winslow married the widow "^^ of Wm. White, May 12, 1621, it being the first marriage which occurred after the lauding. John Alden and Miss Mullens were probably married in the Spring of 1622, or the preceding fall. Bearing in mind these facts, it seems hardly credible that Standish, so soon after the decease of his beautiful and excellent wife, for such, tradition assures us, she was, — that within a month, " nay, not so much," he should propose a renewal of the matrimonial bonds, so suddenly severed, in the saddest hour of even Pilgrim experience. It is gratifying in this case, that tra- dition and the facts of history may pleasantly harmonize, under the guid- ance of rational probabilities, leaving us to infer, that no leave was asked of Mr. Mullens, in person or by proxy, to visit his daughter, but that the em- bassy of Alden, was to the maiden herself, sometime after ; that as no cattle were imported into the Colony till the j'ear 1623, of course, no animal of that species was here found, to be " covered " with " a handsome piece of broad- cloth ; " that as the Town of Barnstable was not settled till the year 1639, some eighteen years subsequent, when all the parties were happily settled in the same neighborhood in old Duxbury ; therefore, the bridal party and the novel cavalcade, which figure so largely in the story, on proceeding to, and returning from the nuptial ceremonies of the transported lovers, are matters 13 therefore, of the late Samuel Davis, Esq., may be safely adopted, when he says, ' We are disposed, however, to generalize the anecdote. The first generation doubt- less knew who came on shore in the first boats ; the second generation related it with less identity ; the fourth with still less : like the stone thrown on the calm lake, the circles well defined at first, become fainter as they recede. For the purpose of the arts, however, a female figure, typical of faith, hope and charity, is well adapted.' The late Dr. Dwight, President of Yale College, who visited Plymouth in the year 1800, expresses himself respecting the rock in the following manner : ' No New Englander who is wiUing to indulge his native feelings, can stand upon the rock, where our ancestors set the first foot after their arrival on the American shore, without experiencing emotions very different from those which are excited by any common object of the same nature. No New Englander could be willing to have that rock buried and forgotten. Let him rea- son as much, as coldly, and ingeniously as he pleases, he will still regard that spot with emotions wholly dif- ferent from those excited by other places of equal or greater importance.' assignable, to some after period, when time and circumstances rendered them entirely suitable and appropriate. We are justified in assuming, that a "flirt- ation " actually occurred at the commencement of " good Old Colony times," and that Cupid and Afars were in open conflict — that Miss Mullins was irre- sistibly attractive in person, manners and character, since a military hero ■yrz& fairly conquered, never before known to surrender, being severely but not mortally wounded ; as a certain skilful lady, who came over in the ship Ann, in the year 1623, was able to effect a perfect cure. 2 14 * ' This rock has become an object of veneration in the United States. I have seen bits of it carefully preserved in several towns of the Union. Does not this sufficiently show that all human power and great- ness is in the soul of man ? Here is a stone which the feet of a few outcasts pressed for an instant ; and the stone becomes famous; it is treasured by a great nation ; its very dust is shared as a relic. And what has become of the gateways of a thousand palaces ? Who cares for them ? f ' Beneath us is the rock, on which New England received the feet of the Pilgrims. We seem even to behold them, as they struggle with the elements, and with toilsome efforts gain the shore. We listen to the chiefs in council; we see the unexampled exhibition of female fortitude and resignation ; we hear the whis- perings of youthful impatience, and we see, what a painter of our own has also represented by his pencil, chilled and shivering childhood, houseless but for a mother's arms, couchless, but for a mother's breast, till our own blood almost freezes. The mild dignity of Carver and of Bradford ; the decisive and soldierlike air of Standish ; the devout Brewster ; the enterprising Allerton ; the general firmness and though tfulness of the whole band ; their conscious j oy for dangers es- caped ; their deep solicitude about dangers to come ; their trust in heaven ; their high rehgious faith, full of confidence and anticipation : — all these seem to be- long to this place and to be present upon this occasion, to fill us with reverence and admiration.' * De Tocqueville's work on America. t Webster's Centennial Address, Dec. 22, 1820. Si^ rl ? lo THE SHIP MAYFLOWER. * Nobly the Mayflower bows, While the dark wave she ploughs, On to the West ; Till from the tempest's shock, Proudly she lauds her flock, Where on Old Plymouth Rock, Freedom found rest.' Dawes. The progress of time, and the course of human events, have contributed to invest the fortunes of the Mayflower with the deepest interest, and to confer upon this once peaceful herald of freedom to our shores, a celebrity achieved, perhaps, by no other vessel known to the annals of maritime enterprise. Her first voyage across the Atlantic was commenced under circumstances of obscurity hardly attracting the curiosity of the passing world, by men whose previous history had formed a school of the severest trials in defence of Christian liberty, eminently adapted to pre- pare them for the still sharper conflicts and perils which overhung the dubious horizon of their future prospects. High and holy as were their aspirations after righteous- ness, truth and freedom, the most vivid imagination among them must have utterly failed to comprehend the vast influence they were destined to exert on the whole current of human affairs. * They little thought how pure a light, With years, should gather i-ound that day ; How love should keep their memories bright. How wide a realm their sons should swav.' Bey ant. 16 But results have followed in the wake of the May- flower, auspiciously affecting the condition of mil- lions ; results, which if the past afford any just indica- tions of the future, present but faint glimpses only of what are destined to appear in ages to come. The Mayflower, of 180 tons burthen, Capt. Jones, was chartered by the merchant adventurers of London, to transport a part of the Ley den Church to America — the Speedwell having been procured in Holland, for the same purpose. The conditions upon which the Pilgrims contracted with the Merchant Adventurers* of London, as they were called, for transporting the former to America, indicate the exhausted state of their pecu- niary means, and would probably never have received their assent under circumstances not imposed by abso- ll^te necessity. On reference to the articles of Agi'ee- ment, which have fortunately been preserved, and may be found in the Guide to Plymouth, and Recollec- tions of the Pilgrims, page 27, the reader will find, what may properly be called a copartnership, which contains, however, no conditions from which it should be inferred, that a Community of Goods, in the true sense of that phrase, was intended or ever existed among the Pil- grims ; and no just grounds appear for the hasty, in- considerate opinions assumed by several historians, both of an earlier and later date that such was the case. As before stated, p. 4, the Mayflower sailed from * The celebrated Capt. John Smith, writing in 1624, thus spealvs of them : * The Adventurers which raised the stock to begin and supply this planta- tion, were about 70, some merchants, some handicraftsmen, some adventur- ing great sums, some small, as their affections moved. These dwelt about London.' 17 Southampton, Aug. 5th, 1620,* discovered Cape Cod, the 9th, and achored in the harbor of Province town, the 11th day of Nov. 1620 — old style — having been ninety-eight days on the voyage to that place. The proceedings at this time are thus related by Gov. Bradford : ' This day, before we came to harbor, observing some not well affected to unity and concord, but gave some appearance of faction, it was thought good there should be an association and agreement, that we should combine together in one body, and to submit to such government and governors as we should by common consent agree to make and choose, and set our hands to this that follows, word for word.' ' In the name of God, Amen. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal subjects of our dread sovereign lord. King James, by the grace of God, of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, king, defender of the faith, &c. having undertaken, for the glory of God, and advance- ment of the Christian faith, and honor of our king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the north- ern parts of Virginia, do, by these presents, solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and one of another, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic, for our better ordering and preserv- ation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid ; and by *■ ' Behold tlie little Mayflower, rounding now the Southern Cape of Eng- land—filled with husbands and wives and children, families of righteous men, under ' covenant with God and each other,' ' to lay some good founda- tion for religion '—engaged both to make and to keep their own laws, expect- ing to supply their own wants and bear their own burdens, assisted by none but the God in whom they trust. Here are the hands of industry ! the germs of liberty ! the dear pledges of order ! and the sacred beginnings of a home ! —D. BushneWs Address, at New York, Dec. 22(7, 1849. 2* 18 virtue hereof to enact, constitute and frame such just and equal laws, ordinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most meet and convenient for the general good of the colony ; unto which we promise all due submission and obedi- ence. In witness whereof we have hereunder subscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the 11th of November, in the year of the reign of our sovereign lord. King James, of England, France and Ireland, the eighteenth, and of Scotland, the fifty-fourth, anno Domini, 1620. [Mr. John CAEVERt 8 "William Bradford! 2 Mr. Edward WixsLOwt 5 Mr. William BREWSTERt 6 *Mr. Isaac AllertonI 6 Capt. Miles Standi shI 2 John Howl and John Alden 1 Mr. Samuel Fuller 2 *Mr. Christopher Martin! 4 *Mr. William MullinsI 5 *Mr. William White! 5 Me. Richard Warren 1 *JoHN Goodman 1 Mr. Stephen Hopkins! 8 *Edwaed Tilly! 4 *JoHN TilltI 3 Francis Cook 2 * Thomas Rogers! 2 *Thomas Tinker 3 *John Ridgdale! 2 *Edward Fullee! =^John Tuener ^Francis Eaton! *James Chilton! ^JoHN Crackston John Billington! ^Moses Fletcher *Degort Priest *Tiiomas Williams Gilbert Win&low *Edmund Margeson ^Peter Brown ^Richard Beitteeige George Soule =^RiCHARD Clarke Richard Gardiner *JoHN Alleeton *Thomas English *Edwaed Dotey Edwaed Leister 101] The above list of the signers of the celebrated com- pact, is taken from Prince's New England Chronology vol. 1, p. 85, Edit. 1736, which is preceded by the 19 following remarks. ' To this instrument Mr. Morton sets the subscribers in the following order : but their names corrected^ with titles and families^ I take from the list at the end of Governor Bradford's folio manuscript. Only this I observe, that out of modesty, he omits the title of Mr. to his own name, which he ascribes to several others.' The figures opposite each name designate the num- ber in each family. Those having an asterisk (*) pre- fixed, died before the end of March. Those which are marked with an obelisk (f ) brought their wives with them. One of those attached to the name of Samuel Fuller was his servant, named William Butten, a youth who died Nov. 6th, on the passage. George Soule was of Winslow's family. Edward Dotey and Edward Leister were of Stephen Hopkins' family. Christopher Martin, Richard Warren, Stephen Hopkins, John Bil- lington, Edward Dotey, Edward Leister, and perhaps some others, joined them at London. The number against the name of William White, does not include that of his son Peregi'ine, born in Cape Cod harbor. John Howland was of Governor Carver's family, John AUerton and Thomas English were seamen. Dr. Young, in his Chronicles of the Pilgrims, page 122, remarks that ' the list includes the servant who died ; the latter ought not to be counted. The number living at the signing of the compact, was therefore only 100.' ' So there were just 101 who sailed from Plymouth in England, and just as many arrived in Cape Cod 20 harbor. And this is the sohtary number, who for an undefiled conscience and the love of pure Christianity, first left their native and pleasant land, and encoun- tered all the toils and hazards of the tumultuous ocean, in search of some uncultivated region in North Virginia, where they might quietly enjoy their relig- ious hberties, and transmit them to posterity in hopes that none would follow to disturb or vex them.' The same day Mr. John Carver was appointed their Gov- ernor. ' These were the founders of the Colony of New Plymouth. The settlement of this colony occasioned the settlement of Massachusetts Bay, which was the source of all the other Colonies of New England. Virginia was in a dying state, and seemed to revive and flourish from the example of New England. ' I am not preserving from oblivion the names of heroes whose chief merit is the overthrow of cities, provinces and empires, but the names of the founders of a flourishing town and colony, if not of the whole British empire in North America.' — JIutchinso7i, 11, 4:62. *'This is perhaps the only instance, in human history, of that positive original social compact, which speculative philosophers have imagined as the only legitimate source of government. Here was a unani- mous and personal assent by all the individuals of the community, to the association by which they be- came a nation. It was the result of circumstances and discussions, which had occurred during their *- John Quincy Adams's Oration, Dec. 22, 1802. 21 passage from Europe, and is a full demonstration that the nature of civil government, abstracted from the political institutions of their native country, had been an object of their serious meditation. The settlers of all the European colonies had contented themselves with the powers conferred upon them by their respective charters, without looking beyond the seal of the royal parchment for the measure of their rights, and the rule of their duties.' Various excursions were afterwards made, in pur- suit of some place for settlement, but without success, and conflicting opinions arose as to the measures it was most expedient to adopt, while the approach of winter, and the impatience of Capt. Jones, rendered their situation full of perplexity, and beset with perils. Under these circumstances, on the 6th of December, another expedition was resolved upon, the day pre- vious having been stormy. Ten men who were willing to embark, were appointed, namely, Capt. Standish, Master Carver, William Bradford, Edward Winslow, John Tilley, Edward Tilley, John Howland, and three of London, Richard Warren, Stephen Hopkins and Edward Dotte, and two seamen, John Alderton and Thomas English. Of the ship's company there went Master Clark and Master Coppin, the master gunner, and three sailors. It was late in the day, before the preparations for the expedition were completed, and the weather was extremely severe. After clearing from the ship, it required some time to get underway, on ac- count of a sandy point, during which two of their men were sick, and Edward Tilley had nearly swooned. 22 The gunner was also sick, and so remained all that day and night. After clearing the sandy point, they coasted six or seven leagues by the shore, landed and spent the night; on the 7th visited several places and probably passed the night at Great Meadow Creek, in Eastham ; and on the 8th, about 5 o'clock in the morning, were sud- denly attacked by the Indians. The attack was re- pulsed with great intrepidity on the part of the pilgrims, and the Indians retreated with precipitation. After returning thanks to God for their wonderful deliverance, they took to their shallop, and called the place ' The First Encounter!* The wind being favora- ble, they sailed along the coast of Barnstable Bay, about forty-five miles, but saw no river or creek con- venient for landing. After sailing an hour or two snow and rain commenced falling ; the sea became rough ; the hinges of the rudder were broken, and it could no longer be used ; but two men supplied its place w^ith oars. The ocean heaved with increasing agitation, and they were in gi'eat anxiety and danger. The night was fast gathering around them. At this ti-ying moment. Master Coppin bid them be of good cheer, for he saw the land ; but as they drew near it, the gale increased, and heavy sail being set in order to reach the harbor before dark, the mast was split in three pieces, and the shallop was threatened with destruction. ' Yet by God's mercy,' says Gov. Brad- ford, ' we had the flood with us, and struck into the harbor. The pilot, who had bid the company be of good cheer, was deceived, and when arriving at the 23 harbor exclaimed, ' Lord be merciful to us, my eyes never saw this place before; ' and he and the master's mate would have run the shallop ashore in a cove full of breakers, had not the seaman who steered, bid them that rowed, ' if they were men, about with her, or else they were all cast away ;' ' the which they did with all speed,' and although it was dark and rainy, they suc- ceeded in securing a safe shelter under the lee of a small island, where they spent the night.* ' In the morning they marched over the Island, but found no inhabitants, making it their rendezvous, be- ing Saturday, the 9th day of December. On the Sab- bath day we rested ; and on Monday we sounded the harbor and found it a very good harbor for our shipping. We marched into the land and found divers corn fields, and little running brooks, a place very good for situa- tion. So we returned (the 14th) to our ship with good news to our people, which did much comfort our hearts. During the passage from England, a child was born named Oceanus, the son of Stephen Hopkins ; and the only death was on the 6th of November, that of Wm. Butten, a youth and servant of Dr. Samuel Fuller. On the 7th of December, and while at Cape Cod Harbor, Dorothy, the wife of Governor William Bradford, fell overboard and was drowned. On the 4th of Decem- ber, Edward Thompson, the servant of William White, died. About the last of November, Peregrine, the son of William White, was born. The Mayflower, after * Clark's Island. 24 remaining thirty -four days, left Cape Cod harbor on the 15th of December, and anchored Satm'day, the 16th, in Plymouth harbor, about one and a half miles from town, between Clark's Island and Beach Point. Here she remained during the winter, and afforded partial accommodations to the settlers, while preparing their houses on shore. In the spring, as Secretary Morton observes, ' They now began to hasten the ship away, which tarried so long by reason of the necessity and danger that lay on them, because so many died, both of themselves and the ship's company likewise, by which they became so few as the master durst not put to sea until those that lived recovered of their sickness, and the winter was over.' She sailed on the 5th of April, 1621, having been in Plymouth harbor one hun- dred and ten days, and arrived at London on the 6th of May, a short passage compared with the previous one, so full of delays, accidents, and dangers. It was on board this ship, that the celebrated com- pact was signed by forty-one individuals. The last survivors of the Mayflower who signed the compact^ were John Rowland, who died in 1672, aged eighty years, and John Alden, who died in 1686, aged eighty- nine. Mary, daughter of Isaac Allerton, and wife of Elder Thomas Cushman, the son of Robert Cushman, died in 1699, aged 90, and was the last of the one hun- dred passengers who arrived at Cape Cod harbor. Mr. Savage observes, in a note to his invaluable edition of Winthrop's History of New England, ' that the principal vessels which brought our fathers hither, are remembered by their descendants with no small 25 degree of affection. The Mayflower had been a name of renown, without forming a part of this fleet,* be- cause in her came the devoted planters of Plymouth, and she had also brought in the year preceding this, some of Higinson's companions to Salem.' It thus appears that Plymouth, Salem, and Boston, have a direct and peculiar interest in all that pertains to the successful history and fortunes of this vessel, which aided in transferring so many individuals from Eng- land to America. Thomas Carlyle observes, in his recent w^ork, ' Look now to American Saxondom, and at that little fact oi the sailing of the Mayflower, two hundred years ago. It was properly the beginning of America. There were straggling settlers in America before ; some material as of a body was there ; but the soul of it was this. These poor men, driven out of their own country, and not able to live in Holland, determined on settling in the new world. Black untamed forests are there, and wild savage creatures ; but not so cruel as a star cham- ber hangman. They clubbed their small means to- gether, hired a ship, the little ship Mayflower, and made ready to set sail. Hah I These men, I think, had a work. The weak thing, weaker than a child, becomes strong, if it be a true thing. Puritanism was only despicable, laughable, then ; but nobody can manage to laugh at it now. It is one of the strongest things under the sun at present.' With the following inimitable description of the =* The fleet that brought over Gov. Winthrop and his Colony. 3 26 Mayflower, on approaching the New England coast, we close this section. *^Methinks I see it now, that one solitary, adven- turous vessel, the Mayflower of a forlorn hope, freighted with the prospects of a future state, and bound across the unknown sea. I behold it pursuing, with a thou- sand misgivings, the uncertain, the tedious voyage. Suns rise and set, and weeks and months pass, and winter surprises them on the deep, but brings them not the sight of the wished for shore. I see them now scantily supplied with provisions, crowded almost to suffocation in their ill-stored prison, delayed by calms, pursuing a circuitous route ; — and now driven in fury before the raging tempest, on the high and giddy waves. The awful voice of the storm howls through the rigging. The laboring masts seem straining from their base ; — the dismal sound of the pumps is heard ; — the ship leaps, as it were, madly, from billow to billow ; — the ocean breaks, and settles with engulph- ing floods over the floating deck, and beats with dead- ening, shivering weight, against the staggered vessel. I see them, escaped from these perils, pursuing their all but desperate undertaking, and landed at last, after a five months' passage, on the ice clad rocks of Ply- mouth, weak and weary from the voyage — poorly armed, scantily provisioned, depending on the charity of their ship-master for a draught of beer on board, drinking nothing but water on shore, — without shel- ter, — without means, — surrounded by hostile tribes. Shut now the volume of history, and tell me, on any * Edward Everett's Oration, Dec. 20, 1826. j ^^k I#p^ 27 principle of human probability, what shall be the fate of this handful of adventurers ? Tell me, man of mili- tary science, in how many months were they all swept off by the thirty savage tribes, enumerated within the early limits of New England? Tell me, politician, how long did this shadow of a colony, on which your conventions and treaties had not smiled, languish on the distant coast ? Student of history, compare for me the baffled projects, the deserted settlements, the aban- doned adventurers of other times, and find the parallel of this. Was it the winter's storm, beating upon the houseless heads of women and children ; was it hard labor and spare meals ; was it disease ; was it the tomahawk ; was it the deep malady of a blighted hope, a ruined enterprise, and a broken heart, aching in its last moments, at the recollection of the loved and left, beyond the sea ; was it some, or all of these united, that hurried this forsaken company to their melancholy fate ? And is it possible that neither of these causes, that not all combined, were able to blast this bud of hope ? Is it possible, that from a beginning so feeble, so frail, so worthy, not so much of admira- tion as of pity, there has gone forth a progi'ess so steady, a growth so wonderful, an expansion so ample, a reality so important, a promise, yet to be fulfilled, so glorious ? ' 28 LEYDEN STREET AND TOWN SQUARE. The murmuring brook whose waters sweet Induced them near to fix their seat. Whose gushing banks the springs afford That eked along their scanty board ; There first was heard the cheerful strain, Of axe and hammer, saw and plane, Around their humble roofs appeared, Through wasting care and labor reared. This street received its present name in the year 1823, in grateful remembrance of the hospitality and kindness shown to the pilgrims during their residence of eleven years in the city of Leyden. It was originally named First Street, and afterwards is in the records sometimes called Great, and Broad street. Among the principal considerations which determined the fathers of New England to settle in Plymouth, was its favorable position for defence against the abo- rigines, and the excellent springs of pure water which abound along its shores, and the precipitous banks of town brook. The tide flowed for some distance up this stream, and formed a convenient basin for the re- ception and safe shelter, of the shallops and other vessels employed in their early enterprises of fishing and traffic. It may in some measure be owing to this circumstance, that convenient wharves along the un- protected shores were not sooner constructed. This stream proceeds from BilUngton sea, which is about two miles distant from town. It furnishes a valuable water power in modern times, and in the days of the Pilgrims, and for nearly two centuries W' ^LLYN HOUSE. FULLER nR/\DLU 29 after, it abounded with alewives, almost at their doors, affording an important resource for the supply of their wants. On the banks and vicinity of this stream, they constructed their humble dwellings, and spent the first winter" after their arrival, and experienced the keenest sufferings and sharpest trials. Had not their voyage across the Atlantic been treacherously delayed, and protracted to an unusual length, they would doubtless have arrived in season to secure a shelter before the advance of winter. They first constructed a frame building, twenty feet square, for their common house, and soon after other buildings for their stores and provisions. It stood partly on the lot occupied by the dwelling house of Capt. Samuel D. Holmes, on the south side of Leyden street, near the declivity of the hill, towards the water side. In the year 1801, when some men were digging a cellar on this spot, several tools and a plate of iron were discovered, seven feet below the surface of the earth, which were carefully preserved and highly valued by the late Isaac Lathrop, Esq., who died in 1808, and whose cherished veneration for the fathers will be long remembered by our citizens. ' Thm'sday, the 28th of December, so many as could went to work on the hill, where we purposed to build our platform for our ordnance, and which doth com- mand all the plain and the bay, and from whence we may see far into the sea, and might be easier impaled, having two rows of houses and a fair street. So in the afternoon we went to measure out the gi'ounds, and fii'st we took notice how many families there 3* 80 were, willing all single men that had no wives, to join with some family, as they thought fit, that so we might build fewer houses ; which was done, and we reduced them to nineteen families. To greater fami- lies we allotted larger plots ; to every person half a pole in breadth, and three in length ; and so lots were cast where every man should lie ; which was done, and staked out. We thought this proportion was large enough at the first, for houses and gardens to impale them round, considering the weakness of our people, many of them growing ill with colds ) for our former discoveries in frost and storms, and the wading at Cape Cod had brought much weakness amongst us, which increased so every day more and more, and after was the cause of many of their deaths.' The following transcript is from the first page of the first Book of the Old Colony Records, being the oldest Record contained in the same, and is doubtless an im- perfect plan of the lots assigned, Dec. 28, 1620, as be- fore mentioned. ' The Meersteads and Garden plotes of those which came first, layed out 1620. The North Side. South Side. Peter Brown, John Goodman, Mr. Brewster. Hige way. ^ John Billington, 1 Mr. Isaak Allerton, Francis Cooke, Edward Winslow. 31 ^ Tuesday, the 9th of January, was a reasonable fair day ; and we went to labor that day in the building of our town, in two rows of houses for more safety. We divided by lot the plot of ground whereon to build our town, after the proportion formerly allotted. We agreed that every man should build his own house, thinking by that course men would make more haste than working in common. The common house, in which for the first we made our rendezvous, being near finish- ed, wanted only covering, it being about twenty foot square. Some should make mortar, and some gather thatch ; so that in four days half of it was thatched. Frost and foul weather hindered us much. This time of the year seldom could we work half the week.' By the words, ' the street,' in the above plan, Leyden street is doubtless meant, and 'Hige way,' represents a street which run easterly of what is now called Market street. This appears evident, from the fact, that in 1684, when the King's highway was laid out, it run westward of the old way, and also from the account of our streets in 1627, as given by Isaac de Rasieres, in his letter, which the reader will find in the latter part of this book ; from which it appears, that the street South of Leyden street, commenced on the opposite side of Maine street, partly on the lot now occupied by Wm. H. Drew, and partly on that owned by the late Wm. Davis, Esq., and thence took a circular direction to join what is now called Summer, in early times called South street. Edward Winslow, in a letter, sent to England, dated Dec. 11, 1621, says, ' We have built seven dwelling 82 houses, and four for the use of the plantation.' The four lots above named, probably included the common house, and the store house, &c., adjoining. An allu- sion is made to the ' old store house^^ the -only one known to the writer, in a deed, of William Bradford, to John Dyer, in 1698. The seven dwelling houses were doubtless found sufficient to shelter those who survived the first winter, comprising but about one half the number living at the time of the allotments, in Dec. 1620. It appears from a deed dated in 1677, that the homestead of Ste- phen Hopkins, was at the corner of Maine and Leyden streets, and that of John Howland, whose wife Eliza- beth probably inherited the sameTrom her father. Gov. Carver, was the lot now owned by the heirs of Barna- bas Hedge, deceased. The following occurrence may be interesting to the reader. On the 14th of January, those on board the ship proposed going on shore to join their brethren in keep- ing the first sabbath. At 6 o'clock in the morning, however, they observed the common house on fire, but on account of low water, could render no aid till three- fourths of an hour afterwards. The thatch with which the roof w^as covered caught from a spark, and instantly burnt up, but the building was saved. Gov. Carver and IVIr. Bradford were sick at the time, and the room was crowded with beds, loaded muskets and powder, but they happily escaped without personal injury, though not without pecuniary loss.' In the common house, according to tradition received 33 from an aged relative, by the late Isaac Lothrop, Esq., who died in 1808, as mentioned by the late Judge Davis, in a note to New England's Memorial, the cele- brated sermon of Robert Cushman was delivered, some time in November or December, 1621 — being the first preached in New England ; in which he enforced with great earnestness, the importance of self-denial, and pointed out the special duties devolving on those who undertake the settlement of new counlries. The first parsonage house was built in this street, and stood east of the present one, embracing the lots on which now stand the houses of the late Barnabas Churchill and James Bartlett, and was early occupied by the Rev. John Cotton, pastor of the fii'st church. The lot on which the present parsonage house stands, was given, March 1, 1664, to the first church, by Mrs. Bridget Fuller and Samuel Fuller, the excellent widow and son of Samuel Fuller, who came in the Mayflower, in^l620, and died in 1683. It is now occupied by Dr. James Kendall, senior pastor of the first church, who was settled in the ministry, January 1st, 1800, and is now in the 82d year of his age. The following vivid delineation of the scene of suffer- ing which occurred among the Pilgi'ims during the first winter, may justly claim the reader's attention. The author,* after referring to the heroic achievements of Theremopylse, thus proceeds : 'And yet do you not think, that whoso could, by adequate description, bring before you that winter of * Choate's Address at New York, Dec. 22, 1S43. 34 the Pilgrims, its brief sunshine, the nights of storms slow waning ; the damp and icy breath, felt to the pil- low of the dying, its destitutions, its contrasts with all their former experience in life, its utter insulation and loneliness, its death beds and burials ; its memories ; its hopes ; the consultations of the prudent ; the prayers of the pious ; the occasional cheerful hymn, in which the heart threw off its burthen, and asserting its unvan- quished nature, went up to the skies — do ye not think that whoso would describe them, calmly waiting in that defile, lonelier and darker than Thermopylse, for a morning that might never dawn, or might show them when it did, a mightier arm than a Persian, raised in act to strike, would he not sketch a scene of more diffi- cult and rare heroism ? A scene as Wordsworth has said, " melancholy, yea, dismal, yet consolatory and full of joy ; a scene even better fitted, to succor, to exalt, to lead the forlorn hopes of all great causes till time shall be no more ! " ' Town Square. This first house of public worship, was built in this place. History affords nothing defi- nite respecting a place of public worship in Plymouth, previous to 1622, though from incidental hints it may be inferred, that the common house was used for that purpose. In 1622, a fort was erected on the hill, and so constructed as to combine both the means of de- fence and accommodations for public worship, as is particularly mentioned by the early historians.* In the year 1637, one of the planters gave, by will, * See also, Isaach De Eosier's Letter, in this book. 35 ' somewhat,' to ' Plymouth meeting house.' Richard Church, the father of Col. Church, and John Tomson, who afterwards settled in Middle borough, were the architects, and Capt. Thomas Willet was one of the contracting committee. That it stood on the north side of Town Square, is inferred from the fact, that in an ancient deed, land was sold there, which is alluded to as the spot where the old meeting house stood. This, ob- serves the late Samuel Davis, Esq., who possessed every advantage for obtaining accurate information on this point, 'this is all the description we shall ever probably obtain, of this ancient sanctuary, where a Reynor and a Cotton broke the bread of life, where a Brewster and a Cushman ruled in holy things. It had a bell, but no dimensions are on record.' This house was taken down in 1683, when another was built. It stood, not upon the old lot, but at the head of the square, the front extending considerably lower down than the present church ; dimensions 40 by 45 feet. A drawing of this church, by the late Samuel Davis, Esq., is still in existence. A third house was erected in 1744, on and near the same 'spot as the former, being 71 feet 10 inches in front, and 67 feet 8 inches deep. Its spire, 100 feet high, was surmounted by a brass weathercock. The present Gothic house was built by the first church. It measures 61 by 70 feet, and cost about $10,000. The church of the Pilgrimage was erected in 1840, that Society having previously worshipped in their house on Training Green, which was built in 1801. 36 This house was dedicated Nov. 24, 1840. The body of the church is 68 by 59 feet, with a tower 26 feet square. It contains 92 pews on the lower floor, and 80 seats in the organ loft, and will accommodate about 700 people. ' It received its name in commemoration of the pilgrimage of our puritan fathers to this place^ and stands near the site of the church they first erected for worship.' The Town, formerly the County Court house, was built in 1749, and was in that day esteemed one of the best models of architecture. The Elm trees in the square were set out in the year 1783, by the late Thomas Davis, Esq. * Let strangers walk around The city where we dwell, Compass and view thine holy gi'ound, And mark the building well.' BURYING HILL. The pilgrim fathers are at rest: When Summer 's throned on high, And the world's warm breast is in verdure dressed, Go, stand on the hill where they lie: The earliest ray of the golden day On that hallowed spot is cast ; And the evening Sun as he leaves the world, Looks kindly on that spot last. Pieepokt. This hill was originally called Fort Hill, from the circumstance of its occupation for defensive purposes immediately after the landing. The first encounter of the Pilgrims with the natives, though resulting in de- feat to the latter, naturally excited apprehensions of 37 future hostilities from the same quarter. Under these circumstances, their first measure of precaution was the erection of a platform on the hill, on which their ordnance was placed, as a protection to the dwellings, which they designed to build in two rows directly below. The site of this ancient fort is distinctly marked, on the south east part of the hill, which overlooks the bay and surrounding country in every direction, a point, no doubt, exactly suited to attract the military taste and practiced eye of Standish. It was connected by a way, now called Spring street, with Town Brook, near which excellent springs of fresh water abounded. In the year, according to Morton and other historians,* * they built a fort with good timber, both strong and comely, which was of good defence, made with a flat roof and battlements, on which fort their ordnance was mounted, and where they kept constant watch, espe- cially in time of danger. It served them also for a meet- ing house, and was fitted accordingly for that use.' These precautions were taken at the time of threaten- ed hostility from Canonicas, the distinguished and powerful Sachem of the Narraganset Indians. In September, 1642, according to the town records, it was agreed that every man should bring two pieces more, eight feet long, to finish the fortification on the fort-hill, and that Richard Church shall speedily build the carriage for another piece of ordnance. Sept. 23d, 1643, it is agreed upon by the whole, that there shall *An interesting description of this fort, and the order in which the pil- grims proceeded in their attendance on public -worship, may be found on reference to the letter of Isaach de Rasiers, in another part of this book. 4 38 be a watch-house forthwith built of brick, and that Mr. Grimes will sell us the brick at lis. a thousand. This is the first instance in which brick are mentioned. In September of the same year, the whole township was classed in a watch, six men and a corporal assigned to a watch, ' when Gov. Bradford, Mr. Prince, Mr. Hop- kins, Mr. Jenney, Mr. Paddy, Mr. Souther were chosen the council of war. Twenty-one individuals living at Jones River and "Wellingsly, were appointed with others in town to keep watch twenty-four hours, from sunset to sunset, in regard to the danger of the Indians ' — those in the town according to order given Nathaniel Souther and Thomas Southworth, appoint- ed masters of the watch. Arrangements were at the same time made in case of alarm at Plymouth, Dux- bury, and Marshfield, that from the two former places, twenty men should repair to the scene of danger, and ten from the latter. Beacons were placed on Gallows hill, and Captain's hill in Duxbury — and on the hill by Mr. Thomas' house in Marshfield — to be fixed as sig- nals in case of danger. In the month of February, 1676, the apprehension of danger from King Philip led to more extensive and formidable defences of this point than had been made at any previous period.* * February 19th, 1675. * It was ordered by the town that there shall be forthwith a fortification built at Plymouth, to be an hundred foot square, the palisadoes to be 10 feet and a half long, to be set two foot and a half in the ground, and to be set against a post and a rail. Every man is to do three foot of the said fence of the fortification. The palisadoes are to be battered on the back side, one against every two and sharpened on the tops — to be accomplished by everj^ male in each family from 16 years and up- wards. And that there shall be a watch-house erected within the said fence 39 There exists no historical account of the time when this hill first became the place of sepulture. It has however been inferred from traditions which have come down, that it was so used not long after 1622, when the fort was constructed and served for public worship as well as defence. The following inscriptions are from the oldest stones now on the hill. Why grave- stones were not sooner placed there, can now only be subject of conjecture. Perhaps a sufficient reason ex- isted in the expense and difficulty of promptly procur- ing stones from England — and something should be allowed to the weighty cares and labors early required to hold possession of the country, demanding thoughts and energies which rendered other considerations of comparatively secondary consequence. It seems proper in this place to remark, that we are unable to designate the exact spot where many of the Pilgrims repose. Among these were Richard Warren, or fortification, and that the three pieces of ordnance shall be placed within the said fence or fortification. Agreed with Nathaniel Southworth to build the said watch-house, which is to 16 feet in length and 12 feet in breadtb, and eight stud, to be walled with board and to have two floors, the upper floor to be six feet above the lower floor, and he is to batten the walls and to make a small pair of stairs in it, and to frame two small windows below, to make two gables to the roof on each side, and to cover the roof with shingles. And to build a chimney in the said house and to do all the work thereunto, only the frame is to be brought to the place at the town's charge, and for the said work, he is to have eight pounds.' At the close of this war, which re- sulted in the permanent security of New England against the natives, this fort was no longer needed, and was sold. The last mention of it in the town records was in 1679, when the Avatch-house was given to Samuel Jenney, to occupy it or remove the same if he thought fit. The cannon were used for the defence of Cole's hill during i-evolutionary times ; and afterwards were sold to be wrought into some more harmless foi-ra of human uses. 40 on the occurrence of whose death, in 1628 — the author of New England's Memorial thus remarks, ' This year died, Mr. Richard Warren, who hath been mentioned before in this book, and was a useful instrument ; and during his life bore a deep share in the difficulties and troubles of the first settlement of the plantation of New Plimouth.' His widow, Elizabeth, died in 1673, aged 93. Samuel Fuller, deacon of the church, and the first resident physician of New England, who died in 1633 — Stephen Hopkins, who died in 1644, all of whom arrived in the Mayflower. — Thomas Southworth, ' a magistrate, and good benefactor to both Church and Commonwealth,' who died in 1669. — Thomas Prince, for many years Gov. of the Colony, and a strenuous pa- tron of free schools, who died in 1673. — Nath'l Morton, Secretary of the Colony, from 1645 to 1685 — and the author of New England's Memorial, who died in 1685, — names of high standing in our earfier annals, — pil- lars of the colony, — devoted friends of law, liberty and refigion. The selection of epitaphs is necessarily restricted in a work like the present one, and the following are copied as of gi-eatest interest in connection with the Pilgi'ims. A white marble monument, with an appropriate in- scription, was some years ago placed on the site well known as the grave of Gov. Bradford, by several of his descendants. It stands on the easterly brow of the hill, and is 8i feet from the ground, and of pyramidal form. This point overlooks the middle street of Plymouth, at the lower end of which stands a house, on or adjoining the spot consecrated as the first huryal ground of the 41 pilgrims ; which street is distinctly marked in the pre- ceding engraved view. Alice Bradford, the widow of Gov. Bradford, whose memory history honors, and tradition still loves to cherish, was doubtless buried near this monument. Her decease is thus mentioned in the Old Colony Re- cords : 'On the 26th day of March, 1620, Mistres Allice Bradford seni'r changed this life for a better, haveing attained to four score years of age or ther- abouts. Shee was a godly matron, and much loued while shee lived and lamented tho' aged when she died and was honorably interred on the 29th day of the month aforesaid : at New Plimouth.' Near this monument, two of Gov. Bradford's sons are interred. Here lies the body of y® honorable Major Wil- liam Bradford, who expired Feb. y^ 20th, 1703-4, aged 79 years. He lived long, but still was doing good, And in his country's service lost much blod. After a life well spent, he 's now at rest, His very name and memory is blest. Here lyes interred y^ body of Mr. Joseph Bradford son to the late honourable William Bradford Esq. Governour of Plymouth Colony who departed this life July the 10th 1715 in the 85 year of his age. Here lies the body of Edward Gray, Gent., aged about 52 years, and departed this hfe the last of June, 1681. Mr. Gray was a distinguished and successful mer- chant and a valuable man in his day and genera- 4* 42 tion. He lived in Rocky-Nook, and died there ; and the same field near the water, on which his house and store stood, are still owned by his descendants. Some years ago a grave stone was placed over the remains of John Howland, by his descendant in the 5th generation, the Hon. John Howland, of Providence, President of the Historical Society of Rhode Island, now in the 89th year of his age. Here ended the pilgrimage of John Howland — and Elizabeth his wife. She was the daus^hter of Gov. Carver. They arrived in the Mayflower, Dec. 1620. They had four sons and six daughters, from whom have descended a numerous posterity. 1672, Feb. 23d. John Howland of Plymouth, de- ceased. He lived to the age of 80 years. He was the last man of them that came over in the Mayflower, who settled in Plymouth. Here lies buried the body of Mr. Wm. Crow, pfged about 55 years, who deed January 1683—4. '' Here lies ye body of Mrs. Hannah Stm-tevant, aged above 64 years. Dec** in March I7O3. Note. — She was the daughter of Josiah Winslow, a brother of Gov. Ed- ward Winslow, and fii-st married Wm. Crow ; her second husband was John Sturtevant. 1695. Here lies buried y^ body of Mr. Thomas Clark, aged 98 years. Departed this life March 24, 1697. It has long been supposed that Mr. Thomas Clark was mate of the Mayflower ; but tradition upon this point is not entirely satisfactory. The christian name 43 of the Clark who was mate of this renowned vessel, is not mentioned in history. Thomas Clark arrived in the Ann, in 1623, at which time he was 23 years of age ; and if he were mate of the Mayflower, was 20 years old when she arrived in 1620. It is at least re- markable, that no mention of him as such appears in any record extant. Here lyes the body of Mrs. Hannah Clark wife to Mr. William Clark Dec'^ Feb^-^ y^ 20th 1687 in the 29'*^ year of her age. Here lieth buried the body of that precious servant of God, Mr. Thomas Cushman, who, after he had served his generation according to the will of God, and particularly the church of Plymouth for many years in the office of a ruling-elder, fell asleep in Jesus Dec. 10th, 1691, and in the 84th year of his age. Mr. Cushman was the son of Robert Cushman. He lived in the latter period of his life near Jones River ; and the place where he dwelt and the spring near it, is called Elder Spring to this day. It is a short distance south of the Kingston landing. 1645. Here lies buried the body of Mr. Thomas Faunce, ruling elder of the first church of Christ in Plymouth. Deceased Feb. 27, 1745, in the 99th year of his age. The fathers — where are they ? Blessed are the dead who die iu the Lord. This venerable cotemporary of the Pilgrims was the last ruling elder of the first church, from whom most of 44 the traditions, respecting the first comers, were received — a source of information deserving of entire confi- dence. * Here lies the body of Joseph Bartlett, who departed this life, April the 9th, 1703, in the 88th year of his age. Thousands of years before blest Abel's fall, 'Twas said of him beiug dead he speaketh yet. From silent grave methinks I hear a voice. Pray fellow mortal do 'nt your death forget; You that your eyes cast on this grave, Know you a dying time must have. Here lyeth y^ body of the honourable James Warren Esq. who deceased June y^ 29"' 1715 in y^ 50th year of his age. Note. — He was the youngest son of Nathaniel Warren ■ — and in the 3d generation from Eichard, of the Mayflower. His decease is thus noticed in the Records of the first church ; ' died, James Warren, Esq., in y« 50'^ year of his age: an exceeding loss to the Church Town and County.' Here lyes y^ body of Francis Le Baron Physician who departed this fife Aug'* y^ 8th 1704 in the 36 year of his age. Note. — Dr. Le Baron was Surgeon on board a French privateer, which was wrecked in Buzzard's Bay. He came to Plymouth, and having per- formed an important surgical operation, the selectmen petitioned the Exec- utive of the Colony, for his liberation as prisoner of war, that he might set- tle in this town. We believe that from this ancestor all of the name in the United States are descended. * It has generally been supposed, that the grave stone of Edward Gray, ■was the first placed on the hill — the late Dr. Nath'l Lothrop, however, re- ceived information from an aged relative, from which it appears that Mr. Bartlett's was &r&tplaced there, though his death was sometime subsequent to that of Mr. Gray. 45 Here lyes buried the body of the Reverend Ephraim Little, Pastor of the Church of Christ at Plymouth aged 47 years 2 m'' and 3 D^ Deceased Nov. y« 24th 1723. Note.— Mr. Little was the first minister buried in Plymouth — after the lapse of one hundred and three years from its settlement. He left no chil- dren and his widow was liberally supported by annual grants from the town during her life. This stone is erected to the memory of that unbias- sed judge, faithful officer, sincere friend, and honest man. Coll. Isaac Lothrop, who resigned this life, on the 26'^ day of April, 1750, in the 43 year of his age. Had virtue's charms the power to save, Its faithful votaries from the grave, This stone had ne'er possessed the fame, Of being marked with Lothrop's name. Note.— Col. Lothrop was a descendant, in the fourth generation, from the Rev. John Lothrop, who settled in the ministry at Scituate, in the year 1634, and removed from thence to Barnstable, with most of his church, in 1639. Departed this life, 23^ June, 1796, in the 90*^ year of her age, madam Priscilla Hobart, relict of the Rev. Noah Hobart, late of Fairfield, in Connecticut, her third husband. Her first and second were John Watson, Esq., and hon. Isaac Lothrop. Wilham Thomas, M. D. Died Sep. 20, 1802, aged 84 years. Note. — Dr. Thomas was a descendant in the 4th generation from Wm. Thomas, who arrived in the colony and settled at Marshfield, about the year 1630, and died in Aug. 1651. He was in the Medical Staff of the army at the capture of Louisburg, in 1745 — and at Crown Point in 1758. Soon after the battle of Lexington, in 1775, he joined the first organized corps of the araiy, with his four sons, viz.: Joshua, Joseph, John, and Nathaniel, an in- auce of family patriotism of rar^ occurrence. 46 Here lies the body of the hon. Josiah Cotton Esq., who died 19 August 1756, aged 76 years and 7 months. Note. — He was the son of Eev. John Cotton, who was ordained minister of the first church of Plymouth, in 1669, and afterwards of a church in Charleston, S. C, where he died in 1696, and grandson of John Cotton, minister of Boston. He was Register of Deeds for the County of Plymouth, for more than 40 years, and left a diary of great histox-ical value. This stone consecrated to the memory of the Rev. Chandler Robbins, D.D., was errected by the inhabit- ants of the first religious society in Plymouth, as their last grateful tribute of respect for his eminent labors in the ministry of Jesus Christ, which commenced Jan- uary 80*^ 1760, and continued till his death, June 30*^ 1799, ^tatis 61, when he entered into that everlasting rest prepared for the faithful embassadors of the most high God. Ah. come Heav'ns radient offspring, hither throng. Behold your prophet, your Elijah fled ; Let sacred symphony attune each tongue To chant hosannas with the sacred dead. Note. — Dr. Eobbins was born at Branford, Connecticut, the 24th of Aug. 1738, and was the son of the Eev. Philemon Eobbins, then minister of that place. Sacred to the memory of Rev. Adoniram Judson, who died Nov. 25, 1826, M. 75. A faithful and devoted minister of Christ. Adoniram Judson, D.D., Missionary of the American Baptist Missionary Union to the Burman empire, who died at sea, April 12, 1850, M. 62 years. The following lines copied from the grave stone of 47 the late Samuel Davis, Esq.,* may appropriately find a place in the closing pages of inscriptions connected with the Pilgrims : From life on earth our pensive friend retires, His dust commingling with the pilgrim sires, In thoughtful walk, their every path he traced, Their toils, their tombs, his faithful page embraced, Peaceful and pure and innocent as they, With them to rise, to everlasting day. In memory of seventy-two seamen, who perished in Plymouth harbor, on the 26th and 27th days of Decem- ber, 1778, on board of the private armed Brig, General Arnold, of 20 guns, numbering in officers and crew, 106 persons in all, James Magee, of Boston, Com- mander ; sixty of whom were buried on this spot, and twelve, in other parts of the Hill. Plymouth harbor ordinarily affords the means of safety instead of danger, to the mariner on approach- ing our coast, when the storms of winter naturally in- crease the perils connected with his hazardous pursuits. The number of shipwrecks therefore, which have occur- red here since the Pilgrims landed, has probably been less than at first sight might be expected. Our annals present no instance of a disaster so try- ing in its circumstances, or involving so large a loss of * On the occasion of an anniversary celebration, some years ago, the Rev. Dr. Peirce of Brookline, and Mr. Davis were in conversation together, at ■which time several gentlemen entered the room, when the Doctor intro- duced his friend, by observing, 'Gentlemen, this is Mr. Davis, who can tell us where we all came from ^ — to which Mr. D. promptly repUed, 'Gentle- men, this is Dr. Peirce, who can tell us where we are all going to: 48 lives, as that briefly stated in the preceding epitaph ; none so exciting to the feelings of the observer, or fraught with such striking alternations of fear, hope, and unutterable distress to the sufferers ; a scene, which age recalls and describes, with a vividness and particu- larity of detail, showing how deeply its stern realities stand engraved on the memory of those, who after the lapse of nearly seventy-three years, still survive, to re- hearse the awful calamity. The two following documents, which so minutely describe the disastrous fate of the Brig Gen. Arnold, have never appeared in any published history of the town, and are here presented, as containing the most full and accurate account now extant. . [From the Boston Gazette^ Jan, 4, 1779.] ' On Friday, the 25th ult, at 6 A.M., the wind to the westward, sailed from this port, the Brig Greneral Arnold, James Magee, Commander, and about meridi- an the wind chopped round to N. E., and looking likely for a gale, they thought best to put into Ply- mouth, and come to anchor in a place called the Cow- yard. On Saturday the gale increasing, she started from her anchor and struck on the White Flat. They then cut both cable and masts away in hopes to drive over, but she immediately bilged, it being low water left her quarter deck dry, where all hands got for reUef. A schooner lying within hail, heard their cries, but could not assist them. On Sunday, the inhab- itants were cutting ice most of the day before they got on board, when they saw 75 ^of the men had 49 perished, and 34 very much frozen, which they got on shore, and on MondJiy they got on shore and buried the dead. Great part of her stores, &c., will be saved. Some evil minded persons have raised a report, that she was plundered by the inhabitants, which is entirely false, as they behaved with the greatest humanity. The following are the persons taken off the wreck of the General Arnold, that survived the shipwreck. Capt. James Magee, John Steal, Jotham Haughton, George Pilsbury, Peter Moorfield, Robert Hinman, Dennis Flin, Thomas Farmer, Stevens, John Bubbey, James Hutchinson, Andrew Kelley, Francis Fires, Daniel English, Robert Mitson, James Kent, — ; Robertson, James Rughley, of Boston ; James Wil- liams, David Williams, Chelsea; George Chockley, Bedford ; Eleazer Thayer, Potter, Providence ; Wm. Russell, Vineyard ; Abel W^illis, Edward Bur- gess, Jethro Naughton, Coffin, Merchant, William Gardner, Chapman, Martha Vineyard ; Dunham, Falmouth ; Barnabas Lathrop, Bar- nabas Barnes, Barnstable.' [Uxtraet from the Boston Evening Post, Saturday/, Jan, 23, 1779.] * Messieurs Printers : — By inserting the following you will oblige your humble servant, James Magee. * As I am informed a report has circulated through the country, that myself and people did not receive that relief and assistance to which the distressed and 50 unfortunate are ever entitled, justice to the inhabitants of the town of Plymouth, in which harbor I was unhappily shipwrecked, indispensably requires of me to contradict so groundless a report and state the circum- stances. ' Agreeable to the account before published, in the morning of the 26th ultimo, in the severest of all storms, the brigantine I commanded, (called the General Ar- nold,) dragged her anchors and struck on a white flat, notwithstanding every effort and precaution to prevent it ; in about 12 hours after she bilged. The quarter deck was the only place that could afford the most distant prospect of safety, and a few hours presented a scene there, that to mention the particulars of which, would shock the least delicate humanity. Some of my people were stifled to death with the snow, others perished with the extremity of the cold, and a few were washed off the deck and drowned. The morning of the 28th, so ardently wished for, discovered a spectacle the most dreadful : forty or fifty men, who the day before were strong and healthy lying dead on the deck in all manner of attitudes. The survivors finding themselves within a mile of the shore entertained the most sanguine hopes of being taken off the wreck and rescued from the frozen and premature fate that awaited them ; but though constant and repeated attempts were made for this purpose by the good people of Plymouth, during the whole day, we were so situated, that all human endeavors to relieve us were exerted in vain. Several of my men imagining from this circumstance that death was inevitable, gave 51 way to despair and instantly yielded up the ghost. We continued in this deplorable and suffering con- dition until Monday, the 29th, at 12 of the clock, when the inhabitants of Plymouth were enabled to bring us off the wreck, and receive us to their houses and administered every thing to us that was necessary and comfortable, with that tenderness and social sympathy which do honor to human nature. The dead, amount- ing in the whole to 72 men were carried on shore and decently buried as soon as possible ; some, indeed, who were alive were saved only to drag out a few miserable days in the extreme of pain and then expire. An universal disposition was shown to secure every thing belonging to the owners and people, and the minutest article, wheresoever found, was sacredly taken care of, of which I shall always retain a grateful rememembrance as well as of that kind Providence which preserved my life.' The preceding letter, written soon after the terrific event which it so vividly describes, discloses traits of character highly honorable to the writer, indicating a sense of justice, prompt to rebuke the misrepresenta- tions of falsehood, unfailing courage and self-control in the hour of imminent danger, and sentiments of gratitude, deeply felt and warmly expressed. Several facts have been preserved not mentioned in the letter of Capt. Magee. Some of his men having broached a cask of spirits, which they used so freely as to endanger their lives, he stove it to pieces, reserving only a small quantity, which he poured into their boots and his own, without suffering them to drink. 52 Joshua Thomas, Esq., of this town states, that about thirty-five years ago, on a visit to Marthas Vineyard, he met with Mr. Merchant*, at that time a clerk of the Court and a survivor of the shipwreck. Mr. Merchant was about ten years of age when the Gen. Arnold was lost, and ascribed his preservation mainly to the reiterated efforts of Capt. Magee, urging him not to give up. Mr. Thomas further states, that his aged mother, recently deceased, frequently adverted to the fact, that in conversation with Capt. Magee, sometime after, respecting the disastrous fate of the Gen. Ai'nold, he was entirely overcome and could not refrain from tears. The late Dr. Thacher, in his account of this disaster observes, 'that on Monday the inhabitants passed over the ice to the wreck. Here was presented a scene unutterably awful and distressing. It is scarcely possible for the human mind to conceive of a more appalling spectacle. The ship was sunk ten feet in the sand, the waves had been for about thirty-six hours sweeping the main deck, the men had crowded to the quarter deck and even here they were obliged to pile together dead bodies to make room for the living. Seventy dead bodies frozen into all imaginable postures were strewed over the deck, or attached to the shrouds and spars ; about thirty exhibited signs of life, but were uncoucious whether in life or death. The bodies remain- ed in the posture in which they died ; the features dread- fully distorted ; some were erect, some bending forward, some sitting" with the head resting on the knees, and ♦This name is usually written Marchant. 53 some with both arms extended, clinging to spars or some parts of the vessel. The dead were piled on the floor of the Com't House, and it is said that Dr. Robbins fainted when called to perform the religious services.' Among those who perished were Dr. M inr^, of Attleborough, Dr. Sears, Capt. John Russell, of Barnstable, Commander of the Marines, and Lieut. Daniel Hall. The names of the two last are inscribed on a stone at the southeast side of the hill. From the most authentic source it is understood, that Capt, James Magee was an Irishman by birth, and married a near relative of the late Genl. Simon Elliot, of Boston. After the revolution he made three voyages to Canton direct, and one of three years' duration to the Northwest Coast, and from thence to Canton. In the year 1789, on his third voyage to Canton, he com- manded the ship Astreea, owned by Mr. Derby, of Salem, the supercargo on board for the voyage, being the venerable Col. Thomas H. Perkins, still living in Boston, the distinguished public benefactor of our times, who was warmly attached to him through life, and was \^ath him at his death, which occurred in the year 1798, at the age of about 45 years. It was thought that his constitution had been permanently injured by his sufferings at Plymouth. He was in the practice of assembling the survivors to an annual dinner whenever he was at home, on the anniversary of their rescue. He left three sons and six daughters, all of whom with their mother are now deceased. The last survivor of his daughters was the wife of the Hon. Jonathan Phillips, of Boston, who died recently ; and 5* 54 his only surviving descendant now, is the daughter of Capt. Charles Magee, married to a son of the Hon. Judge Walker, of Lenox, in this State. On a bright summer's day, at full tide, let some thoughtful observer come ♦ To the hill of hallowed brow, Where the pilgi-im sleepeth now.' Let him come when no cloud obscures the heavens, and the hushed air breathes no whisper, when the unruffled ocean holds mirrored on its tranquil bosom, the varied forms of surrounding objects, and the chastened feelings of the hour, court the sympathy of nature's repose, symbol of that deeper repose, brooding over the sleep of many generations. Facing the beau- tiful expanse of waters before him, the green ridge of Manomet is seen, rising nearly four hundred feet above the ocean, having the beach stretching its slender form from its northerly side three miles in extent, reposing quietly beneath its misty veil of blue, as if to gain fresh vigor, to encounter the furious congregation of billows, that often beat and foam against the huge rocks that encircle its base. Extending his vision across the bay, a distance of twenty-five miles, the white cliffs of Cape Cod appear as if suspended in mid-air by some secret enchantment of nature. Con- tracting his vision within a narrower compass, it rests on the white towers of the gurnet light house, reflected in the depths below, occupying the extreme point of Marshfield beach, seven miles from the main land ; 35 from whence the gleaming messenger of* hope may sooner penetrate the darkness of night, and guide the lost mariner to some haven of safety. Protected by Saquish head, stands Clark's Island, where the wrecked shallop of the Mayflower, shrouded in darkness, and just escaping destruction from the foaming breakers of the neighboring cove, at last found shelter, and the weather-beaten pilgrim, in his joyous hour of safety from peril, ' thanked God and took courage.' Beyond lies the extended village of Dux bury, sparkling in sun- light, reaching to the Hill of Stan dish, full of interest- ing associations ; and Kingston, with its neat dwell- ings, scattered along between pleasant groves, and teeming flood, terminating the survey of hills and plains and waters, which once formed the active scene of intense . labor, perilous enterprise and enduring power, to men whose ashes now mingle with the ground on which the rapt observer stands. COLE'S HILL. How sadly winds the funeral train With feeble step across the plain ! What anguish wrings affection's breast, That laid the Pilgnm to his rest ! No requiem his, but ocean's roar, That broke in moans along the shore, Or storms and waves that raging sweep. While gushing hearts are left to weep. Cole's Hill is an open green spot fronting the harbor, a short distance above Forefather's Rock, commanding a beautiful view of the ocean and high lands, by which the bay is encircled. It was the first burial be ground of the Pilgrims. On inspection it will be found to have undergone considerable changes, since its first consecration as a temporary receptacle of the dead. In the year 1735, a severe storm occurred, and large quantities of water rushing through Middle street, washed away some portion of the banks, carrying in its current the remains of several bodies, deposited there in the winter of 1620, and spring of 1621. In the year 1809, a human skull was disinterred, the teeth of which were in a perfect state of preservation. The traditions respecting this place, and its consecrated uses by the Pilgrims, were received from the same unquestionable sources, as are mentioned in the ac- count of Forefather's Rock, on page 7 of this work, and are stated by Dr. Holmes, in his American Annals, and by the venerable Judge Davis, in a ^ote to his edition of the New England Memorial, to have been received by them many years ago. About fifty of those who came in the Mayflower were buried on this spot, near the foot of Middle street, among them were Gov. Carver, William White, Rose Standish, the wife of Capt. Standish, Elizabeth, the wife of Edward Winslow, Christopher Martin, William Mullins, John and Edward Tilley, Thomas Rogers, Mary, the wife of Isaac Allerton. The suffering, death, and funeral solemnities, of which this spot was once the trying scene, have been the subject of a description so consonant to the most elevated principles of our nature, that no better service can be rendered to every thoughtful observer, than its transcription into these pages. 57 * * In a late undesigned visit to Plymouth, I sought the spot where their earlier dead were buried. It was a bank you remember, somewhat elevated, below the town and between it and the water, near and looking forth upon the waves, symbol of what life had been to them ; ascending inland, behind and above the rock, a symbol of that rock of ages, on which the dying had rested in the final hour. As the Pilgrim found these localities, you might stand on that bank and hear the restless waters chafe and melt against its steadfast bank ; the unquiet of the world composed itself at the portals of the grave. On that spot have laid to rest together, the earth carefully smoothed down that the Indian might not count the number, the true, the pious, the beautiful, and the brave, till the heavens be no more. There certainly was buried the first Gover- nor, (Carver,) "w4th three vollies of shot fired over him ; " and there was buried Rose the wife of Miles Standish. " You shall go to them," wrote Robinson in the same letter from which I have read, " but they shall not return to you." ' I can seem to see, on a day quite towards the close of their first month of March, a diminished procession of the Pilgrims, following another dearly loved and newly dead, to that brink of graves ; and pausing sadly there, before they shall turn away to see that face no more. In full view from that spot, is the Mayflower, still riding at her anchor, but to sail in a few days * Choate's Oration delivered before the New England Society, at New York, Dec. 22, 1843. 58 more for England, leaving them alone, the living and the dead, to the weal or woe of their new home. I cannot say what was the entire emotion of that moment and that scene, but the tones of the venerated elder's voice, as they gathered round him, were full of cheerful trust ; and they went to hearts as noble as his own ! This spot, he might say, " this line of shore, yea, this whole land grows dearer, daily, were it only for the precious dust which we have committed to its bosom. I would sleep here, when my own hour comes, rather than elsewhere, with those who have shared with us in our exceeding labors, and whose burdens are now unloosed forever. I would be near them in the last day, and have a part in their resurrec- tion. And now," he proceeded, " let us go from the side of the grave to work with all our might what we have to do. It is in my mind that our night of sorrow is well nigh ended, and that the joy of our morning is at hand. The breath of the pleasant southwest is here, and the singing of birds. . The sore sickness is stayed, somewhat more than half our number remain, and among them some of our best and wisest, though others have fallen asleep. Matter of joy and thanksgiving to Almighty God it is, that among you all, the living and the dead, I know not one, even when disease had touched him, and sharp grief had made his heart as a little child's, who desired, yea, who could have been entreated to go back to England by yonder ship. Plainly it is his will, that we stand or fall here. All his providences, these three hundred years, declare it, as with beams of the sun. Did he 59 not set his bow in the clouds, in that bitter hour of embarking, and build his glorious arch upon the sea, for us to sail through hitherward ? Wherefore, let us stand to our lot ! If he prosper us we shall found a church, against which the gates of hell shall not pre- vail ; and a colony, a nation, by which all the nations shall be healed, and shall be saved. Millions shall spring from our loins, and trace back with lineal love, their blood to ours. Centuries hereafter, in great cities, the capitals of mighty states, and from the tribes of a common and happy Israel, shall come together, the good, the distinguished, the wise, to remember our dark day of small things ; yea, generations shall call us blessed." * Without a sign, calmly, with triumph, they turned away from the grave ; they sent the Mayflower away and went back, those stern, strong men, to their imperial labors.' CLARK'S ISLAND. Tlie modest isle of yonder bay, Screened from the rougher blasts and spray, There, long by storm and billow driven. With mast and sail to fragments riven, The wanderers sought its welcome shore, And safe their struggling shallop moor; There watchful met the earliest dawn, Which first revealed the Sabbath morn, That prayer and praise might o'er the deep Their swelling strains harmonious keep. New England's first born Sabbath day, On time's dark flood has passed away, The Pilgrim chant is heard no more. That echoed once upon that shore. 60 And hushed the lips whose accents gave Their grateful notes to wind and wave, But still the hours of peaceful rest From earthly cares, are ever blest, And wing our thought to scenes divine, Where faith and hope no more decline. This Island received its name from Clark, the master's mate of the ship Mayflower. It is in some measure sheltered from the ocean by Saquish on the south and Marshfield beach on the east. It presents a beautiful feature in the scenery of Plymouth harbor, distant three miles from town, but is chiefly interesting in connection with the Pilgrims, who providentially found a shelter by its side on the night of December 8th, 1620. Having taken their departure from East- ham and coasted along Barnstable Bay about 45 miles, and being overtaken by a storm on entering Plymouth harbor, they narrowly escaped running the shallop into a cove full of breakers, which is formed between the gurnet light house and Saquish head, a distance of about two miles. On approaching the breakers a resolute sea- man at the helm cried out to the oarsmen, * if they were men, about with her, or they were all cast away ;' which call was promptly executed, and favored by the flood-tide, they weathered Saquish head and secured a shelter. Here they Idndled a fire and spent the night. In the morning they explored the island, without find- ing either dwellings or inhabitants. The weather being extremely cold, Saturday the 9th was spent in recruit- ing their strength, drying their arms, and repairing the shallop. The next day being Sunday, 'they rested,' and kept the first New England Sabbath, notwithstand- 61 ing the urgent necessity then existing, to hasten their explorations, for some place of permanent settlement. On Monday, the 11th of December, they sounded the harbor, and landed on the Rock of Plymouth, which date corresponds with the 21st of December, new style, according to the decision of our best astrono- mers, though the 22d has usually been the day of anniversary celebrations. In the year 1637, ' The court granted, that Clark's Island, the Eel River beach, saquish and the gurnet's nose, shall be and remain unto the town of Plymouth.' The Island was originally well wooded, principally with red cedar, which in after times was frequently converted into gate posts for the supply of Boston market. Four or five weather beaten tenants of this spot still remain, and might in their days of youthful vigor, have formed part of the forest which poetry has delightfully personified in connection with the Fathers, ' When the leafless woods repeated The music of their psalm, , When they shook the depths of the desert gloom With their song of lofty cheer.' This Island contains 865 acres, according to a sur- vey ordered by Sir Edmund Andros, Feb. 23d, 1687, executed by Phillip Wells, and was pronounced by Gov. Hutchinson one of the best in Massachusetts. It was sold by the town, in 1690, to Samuel Lucas, El- kanah Watson, and George Morton. The late John Watson, Esq., was the proprietor of the Island, where he resided about 40 years, and died Feb. 1, 1826, in the 78th year of his age. He was one of the founders 62 of the Old Colony Club, in 1769, and President of the Pilgrim Society after the year 1820, till his death. The place is now under good cultivation by his son, Mr. Edward Watson. On a very accurate map of Plymouth, drawn by James Blascowith, Esq., a Naval Engineer, by order of the British Government, in the year 1774, a large rock on the Island is named Election RocJc, which according to information obtained from elderly persons now living, probably derived its name from the fact, that parties of pleasure in early times resorted there, to spend election holidays. This map probably contains the only record extant here of an ancient holiday, full of excitement to the community, in the former days of New England. It ought, perhaps, to be stated here, that history has not preserved the christian names of either Jones or Clark, the master and mate of the Mayflower, or of Reynolds, master of the Speedwell. BILLINGTON SEA. This beautiful expanse of water, though it may not justly aspire to all the dignity which its name would seem to import, and which, soon after its discovery, received from the planters themselves, the more unas- suming and appropriate appellation of Fresh Lake, still possesses strong attractions to the lovers of nature, in her more secluded, but not less interesting manifest- ations of beauty. It was discovered by ' Francis Billington,' in 1621, w^ho ' having the week before, (on the eighth of Janu- 63 ary,) seen from the top of a tree, on a high hill, a great sea as he thought, went with the master's mate to see it.' They found seven or eight wigwams, but no in- habitants. Whether these dwellings served for occa- sional accommodation to the Namasket Indians, when visiting the sea-shore for shellfish, or had been deserted in consequence of the destructive plague of 1616, must remain the subject of conjecture only. It is quite prob- able, howe\;er, that the Indian path from Namasket wound its way along this woodland region, and so con- tinued on the south side of Town Brook. It is about one and a half miles long, and half a mile in width at its extreme points, and six miles in compass along its winding shores. It imbosoms an Island containing two acres of land, formerly covered with every variety of forest trees, and now mostly replaced by an orchard and dwelling house. Some thirty years ago, it was the usual and favorite resort of social parties from town, since which it has in some measure experienced the rivalship peculiar to all human concerns ; while South, Long, and Herring Ponds, having deeper water and greater abundance of fish, often divert the votaries of innocent amusement to their attractive shores. During the last summer, this ancient and agreeable resort seems to have acquired new favor in public estimation, and among the throng of visitors to Ply- mouth, in quest of antiquity, and to seek relaxation from the cares of city life, many have found its shady groves a source of refreshment and delight. The water power afforded by this spacious fountain, from whence Town Brook proceeds in its course of two 64 miles to the harbor, is not liable to the many fluctua- tions incident to most of our streams. It has, from time immemorial, been of great importance to our citi- zens, and might with skilful improvements, increase the productive power of our manufactures to a very large extent. In this comparatively sequestered region, the eagle stiU maintains his ancient dominion, majestically soar- ing above his native hills, the abode of many genera- tions. Here the beautiful wood duck still roams, though with diminished chances of success, in quest of a seclud- ed retreat — and the bounding deer, sportively ranging through forest and glade, finds refreshment on the mar- gin of its pure waters ; or, when heated in the chase from some perilous onset of the reckless hunter, with hurried flight venturously braves the welcome flood, his only chance of security from unrelenting pursuit. SAMOSET, THE INDIAN SAGAMORE. Sis Interview with the Pilgrims. The path through which Samoset came^ And boldly welcomed them by name, Whose practiced skill and counsel sage, Inscribed appear on history's page, That tells his worth and friendship true, And yields the praise so justly due — His comely form and features stand, Portrayed by Sargent's tasteful hand, Beside the groupe of exiled name, Who pressed the Eock of endless fame. The interview of Samoset with the Pilgrims, was an important event in their early history, and the reader 65 will doubtless desire an account of it. The following description of this novel scene, by one present on the interesting occasion, is therefore offered : ' Friday, the 16th, a fair, warm day towards. This morning we determined to conclude of the military orders, which we had begun to consider of before, but were interrupted by the savages, as we mentioned formerly. And whilst we were busied hereabout, we were interrupted again ; for there presented himself a savage, which caused an alarm. He very boldly came all alone, and along the houses, straight to the rendez- vous ; where we intercepted him, not suffering him to go in, as undoubtedly he would out of his boldness. He saluted us in English, and bade us ' Welcome ; ' for he had learned some broken English among the Englishmen that came to fish at Monhiggon, and knew by name most of the captains, commanders, and mas- tdi-s that usually come. He was a man free in speech so far as he could express his mind, and of a seemly carriage. We questioned him of many things, he was the first savage we could meet withal. He said he was not of these parts, but of Morattiggon,* and one of the sagamores or lords thereof ; and had been eight months in these parts, it lying hence a day's sail with a great wind, and five days by land. He discoursed of the whole country, and of every province, and o then* sagamores, and their number of men and strength. The wind beginning to rise a little, we cast a horse- man's coat about him ; for he was stark naked, only a * Probably Monniggon, in the State of Maine. 6* 66 leather about his waist, with a fringe about a span long or little more. He had a bow and two arrows ; the one headed, and the other unheaded. He was a tall, straight man, the hair of his head black, long behind, only short before, none on his face at all. He asked some beer, but we gave him strong water, and biscuit, and butter, and cheese, and pudding, and a piece of mallard ; all which he liked well, and had been acquainted with such amongst the English. He told us the place where we now lived is called Patuxet, and that about four years ago all the inhabitants died of an extraordinary plague, and there is neither man, woman, nor child re- maining, as indeed we have found none ; so as there is none to hinder our possession, or to lay claim unto it. All the afternoon we spent in communication with him. We would gladly have been rid of him at night, but he was not willing to go this night. Then we thought to carry him on shipboard, wherewith he was well content, and went into the shallop ; but the wind was high and the water scant, that it could not return back. We lodged him that night at Stephen Hop- kins's* house, and watched him. The uncertainty of the Indians as to the numbers and strength of the Pilgiims, and the dread inspired by the use of fire arms, probably induced them to preserve a cautious reserve for more than three months. Dming this time the Pilgrims were struggling through every variety of difficulty and suffering, to provide a shelter for themselves and their families, and might have be- * Probably the house, corner of Main and Leyden Street. 67 come an easy prey to any hostile effort against them* Before their habitations had been sufficiently secured against the inclemency of winter, many from previous exposure were seized with sickness and died. In their feeble state, ignorant of the power, fearful of renewed hostility from the Indians, who shall attempt to describe their hour of agony ? At this moment of painful suspense and apprehen- sion of thick coming dangers, with what indescribable emotions of joy, did the Pilgrim, as he walked forth in the morning of that day, to resume the labor of defen- sive preparation, hear the first sounds of friendly salu- tation, when Samoset boldly approaching the humble dwellings, called aloud, ' Welcome ! welcome English- men I ' It little mattered that Indian proficiency had mastered only some broken fragments of the English tongue ; the tones of welcome were those of rap- ture, and needed no medium of poUshed phrase lo reach the heart. The interview was full of interest, and its consequences proved highly beneficial. Samoset is not mentioned in history after the inter- view with Massasoit, which occurred a few days after the occmTences above narrated. It is therefore proba- ble, that he soon returned to his native home in the eastern country, from whence it is generally supposed he came, and that no opportunity was afterwards pre- sented to renew the friendly salutations with which he first met the Pilgrims. 68 WATSON'S HILL. 3£assaso{t, Tlie rising Hill, upon whose brow Was first exchanged the solemn vow, Where Massasoit, the Indian Chief, So freely tendered kind relief. And by whose early proffered aid A lasting peace was firmly made, While Carver, Winslow, Bradford stand. Time honored Fathers of our land, This chieftain too shall homage claim Of praise far more than princely fame ; True hearted, gentle, kind and brave. Unfading honors crown his grave. This hill* rises to an elevated height on the south side of Town Brook, and was called Strawberry Hill by the first planters. It was early owned by George Watson, an ancient and valuable settler. Its Indian name was Cantauganteest ; the signification of which has not been ascertained, though diligent inquiry has been made for that purpose. Since the days of Eliot, Mayo, Cotton, and Treat, the language and the race of Indians seeiTi to have shared one common fate. It might become an interesting subject of speculation to consider what eff'ect would be produced on the minds of those devoted missionaries, were they permitted to visit the earth and witness the desolation which has spared hardly a solitary descendant of the numerous converts they once gathered into the fold of Christian hope. * Indicated by the wind-mill now on its summit. 69 On the summit of this hill, Massasoit appeared with his train of sixty men, where hostages were exchanged between him and the Pilgrims, as a preliminary step to the treaty of peace, which immediately followed. And the interview is thus described by one present at the time of its occurrence : * Thursday, the 22d of March, was a very fair, warm day. About noon we met again about our public busi- ness. But we had scarce been an hour together, but Samoset came again, and Squanto the only native of Patuxet, where we now inhabit, who was one of the twenty captives that by Hunt were carried away, and had been in England, and dwelt in Cornhill with Mas- ter John Slanie, a merchant, and could speak a little English, with three others ; and they brought with them some few. skins to truck, and some red herrings, newly taken and dried, but not salted ; and signified unto us that their great sagamore, Massasoyt, was hard by, with Quadequina, his brother, and all their men. They could not well express in English what they would ; but after an hour the king came to the top of a hill over against us, and had in his train sixty men, that we could well behold them, and they us. "We were not willing to send our governor to them, and they were unwilling to come to us. So Squanto went again unto him, who brought word that we should send one to parley with him, which we did, which was Ed- ward Win sloe, to know his mind, and to signify the mind and will of our governor, which was to have ti'ading and peace with him. We sent to the king a pair of knives, and a copper chain with a jewel at 70 it. To Quadequina we sent likewise a knife, and a jewel to hang in his ear, and withal a pot of strong water, a good quantity of biscuit, and some butter ; which were all willingly accepted. ' Our messenger made a speech unto him, that King James saluted him with words of love and peace, and did accept of him as his friend and ally ; and that our governor desired to see him and to truck with him, and to confirm a peace with him, as his next neighbor. He liked well of the speech, and heard it attentively, though the interpreters did not well express it. After he had eaten and drunk himself, and given the rest to his company, he looked upon our messenger's sword "and armor, which he had on, with intimation of his desire to buy it ; but, on the other side, our messenger showed his unwillingness to part with it. In the end, he left him ^in the custody of Quadequina, his brother, and came over the brook, and some twenty men followed him, leaving all their bows and an-ows behind them. We kept [six or seven as hostages for our messenger. Captain Standish and Master Wilhamson met the king at the brook, with half a dozen musketeers. They saluted him, and he them ; so one going over, the one on the one side, and the other on the other, conducted him to a house then in building, where we placed a green rug and three or four cushions. Then instantly came our governor, with drum and trumpet after him, and some few musketeers. After salutations, our gov- ernor kissing his hand, the king kissed him ; and so they sat down. The governor called for some strong water, and drunk to him ; and he di-unk a great draught 71 that made him sweat all the while after. He called for a little fresh meat, which the king did eat willingly, and did give his followers. Then they treated of peace, which was : ' 1. That neither he nor any of his should injm-e or do hurl to any of our people. ' 2. And if any of his did hurt to any of ours, he should send the offender, that we might punish him. ' 3. That if any of our tools were taken away, when our people were at work, he should cause them to be restored ; and if ours did any harm to any of his, we would do the like to them. ' 4. If any did unjustly war against him, we would aid him ; if any did war against us, he should aid us. ' 5. He should send to his neighbour confederates to certify them of this, that they might not wrong us, but might be likewise comprised in the conditions of peace. * 6. That when their men came to us, they should leave their bows and arrows behind them, as we should do our pieces when we came to them. ' Lastly, that doing thus. King James would esteem of him as his friend and ally. 'All which the King seemed to like well, and it was applauded of his followers. All the while he sat by the governor he trembled for fear. In his person he is a very lusty man, in his best years, an able body grave of countenance, and spare of speech ; in his attire little or nothing differing from the rest of his fol- lowers, only in a great chain of white bone beads about his neck ; and at it, behind his neck, hangs a little bag 72 of tobacco, which he drank,* and gave us to drink. His face was painted with a sad red, like murrey, and oiled both head and face, that he looked greasily. All his fol- lowers 'likewise were in their faces, in part or in whole, painted, some black, some red, some yellow, and some white, some with crosses, and other antic works ; some had skins on them, and some naked ; all strong, tall men in appearance. ' So after all was done, the governor conducted him to the brook, and there they embraced each other, and he departed ; we diligently keeping our hostages.' This place was probably a favorite resort of the natives prior to the landing. Excavations have been made at various times, and Indian remains have been found there within a few years. On the west side shells are found in large quantities, evidently the rem- nant of many a simple Indian feast, for which the situation possessed every advantage, having the best springs close at hand, of which none were better j udges than the natives, till their taste became perverted by the immoderate use of the strong water, supplied them by the reckless white men, who have so often unscrupu- lously employed the article, both to their own destruc- tion and the oppression of that injured race. The treaty of Peace made on the occasion above stated, having been concluded, under the influence of upright intentions, by both of the parties concerned — proved mutually advantagious, and continued, without any serious disturbance on either side, for more than fifty years. * Or the same as smoking tobacco. 78 CAPTAIN'S HILL. We trace the mount which gently soars Above the sea and circling shores, Where Standish, first of martial name, Who dauntless won heroic fame, Skilful and brave to guide the band, Which firm achieved this chosen land, Was wont to gaze on every side, And scan the sail of every tide. This beautiful mount is situated in the southeasterly part of Duxbmy, and was at an early period assigned, with land adjacent, to INIyles Standish, the intrepid military leader of the Pilgrims, Its summit, in a grad- ual ascent, is about 400 yards from the w^ater, and about 180 feet above the ocean, by which it is washed, on its west, south, and easterly sides. It affords an ex- tensive and delightful view of the surrounding country, the harbor, Bay of Cape Cod, and Manomet. The dwelling house and spring of Standish were on the southerly part of the mount and but a short distance from the water. The house was burnt, as we have learned from good authority, while occupied by Alex- ander, the oldest son of Capt. Standish. In a com- munication from Lewis Bradford, Esq., the aged and venerable Town Clerk of Plympton, he observes, ^ I have found that Alexander Standish was Town Clerk and also a deacon of the church in Duxbury, and that he lived in the house where his father lived, which was burnt, and the Town Records of Duxbury up to that time burnt in it.' The ruins of this house still remain, 7 74 and frequently attract antiquarian curiosity. Imple- ments of household use, and parcels of corn partially scorched by fire, found in these ruins, have been deemed as trophies amply rewarding the labor expended in pro- curing them. The burial place of Standish, is not certainly ascer- tained ; but was probably in the old burying ground in Duxbury, not far from his house. The will of Capt. Miles Standish is dated March 7, 1655, and the following clause relates to property iu England. ' I give unto my son and heir apparent Alexander Standish all my lands as heir apparent by lawful descent in Ormistic Bousconge Wrightington Maudsley Newburrow Cranston and in the Isle of Man and given to mee as right heire by lawful descent, but surreptitiously detained from mee my great grand- father being a second or younger brother from the house of Standish of Standish.' It appears that Miles, the oldest son of Alexander, inherited the homestead at Duxbury, and died there, leaving a will, dated Aug. 31, 1739, in which he gives his homestead, 120 acres, to Miles, his son, his wife Experience to have half the income, and legacies to the following named daugh- ters : Sarah, wife of Abner Weston, Patience, wife of Caleb Jenney, Priscilla, and Penelope Standish. Pe- nelope died in 1740. Miles Standish, above named, lived in Duxbury, and July 3, 1763, by deed, in which his wife Mehitable joined, sold his remaining home- stead to Samuel and Sylvanus Drew, who about the same time sold it to "Wait Wadsworth. He probably soon moved to Bridge water, and July 1, 1765, pur- 75 chased a farm (at Teticut,) costing ^253 6s. St?., of Elijah Leach. He sold, his wife Mehitable joining in the deed, to his son Miles, the same farm, April 28, 1779. Judge Mitchell states that he died in 1785, aged 80, and that his son removed to Pennsylvania, and that he also had a son Miles, from all which it seems probable that the son of the last named Miles is the rightful heir to the Standish property in England, if any such there be. PILGRIM HALL. The corner stone, containing historical inscriptions, was laid Sept. 1, 1824, with rehgious ceremonies. This monumental edifice is situated on Court Street ; it is seventy by forty feet, constructed of unwrought split granite, in a plain and substantial mode of architecture, contains a dining room on the basement, and a spa- cious hall above. The ground on which it stands was a part of the extensive estate of Mr. Thomas South- worth, in 1668, and is probably comprised within the ' four acres given him by his mother. Mrs. Alice Brad- ford,' relict of Gov. Bradford. When Plymouth was first planted, there was a north and a south common field, for tillage, for several years, on either side of the town, near the shore. This falls within the ' north field,' and probably within the stockade and palisadoes of nearly half a mile in compass. Just below it, abutting on ' the shore, were the six acre brick kiln field,' of the first planters. The eastern prospect from it is interesting, 76 bringing into view the harbor, the near shores of Dux- bury and Marsh field, the highlands of Manomet, the ocean, and occasionally in the summer, the looming cliffs of Cape Cod — the first resting place of the Pil- grims. The Pilgrim Hall, which is now fitted up in a man- ner convenient and appropriate, for the reception of interesting memorials connected with the Pilgrims, contains the following, among other attractions to the antiquarian visitor : The Landing of the Fathers in 1620, painted by the late Henry Sargent, Esq., of Boston, and generously presented by him to the Pilgiim Society. It was val- ued at $3,000. The gilt frame was purchased by the Pilgrim Society, with funds raised by subscription, and cost about $400. It is 13 by 16 feet. • The following individuals are represented in the paint- ing, attired in the costume of their time. 1st. Governor Carver and his wife and children. 2d. Governor Bradford, 3d. Governor Winslow. 4th. Wife of Governor Winslow. 5th. Mr. William Brews- ter, the Elder of Leyden Church. 6th. Captain Miles Standish. 7th. Mr. William White, and his child Peregrine. 8th. Mi*. Isaac Allerton and his wife. 9th. Mr. John Alden. 10th. Mr. John Turner. 11th. Mr. Stephen Hopkins, his wife and children. 12th. Mr. Richard Warren. 13th. Mr. Edward Telley. 14th. Mr. Samuel Fuller. 15th. Wife of Captain Standish. 16th. Samoset, an Indian Sagamore or Lord. 17th. Mr. John Howland, son-in-law of Governor Carver. Portraits. 1st. Edward Winslow, painted in Lon- 77 don, in 1651, copied from the original, by C. A. Foster. 2d. Josiah Winslow, the first native Governor of the Old Colony, painted in London, in 1651 ; copied from the original, by C. A. Foster. 3d. Gov. Josiah Wins- low's wife, Penelope Pe.lham ; copied from the original, by C. A. Foster. 4th. General John Winslow ; copied from the original, by C. A. Foster. The portrait of Gov. Edward Winslow is the only one preserved, of those who came in the Mayflower. The originals of these paintings belong to Isaac Winslow, Esq., of Bos- ton, and are now in the rooms of the Mass. His- torical Society. 5th. A portrait of the Hon. Ephraim Spooner, presented by Thomas Davis, Esq., of Bos- ton. 6th. A portrait of John Alden, Esq., of Middle- borough, who died in 1821, aged 102 years. He was the great grandson of John Alden, who came in the Mayflower, painted and presented by Cephas Thomp- son, Esq. 7th. A portrait of Hon. John Trumbull, pre- sented by Col. John Trumbull. This portrait was painted in 1781. The face was executed by Mr. Stewart, and the other parts by JNIr. Trumbull himself while a student with him. 8th. A portrait of James Thacher, M.D., late Librarian and Cabinet keeper of the Pilgrim Society. It was painted by INIr. Frothing- ham, in January, 1841, by order of the Pilgrim Society, pursuant to a vote expressing their sense of the valua- ble services he had rendered, in promoting the objects of said Society.* * Dr. Thacher was appointed Librarian and Cabinet keeper of the Pilgrim Society, at its first organization, and his indefatigable efforts contributed largely to the promotion of its objects. The following extract from the 7* 78 A portrait of James Kendall, D.D., Senior Pastor of the first Church. The bust of Hon. Daniel Webster, presented by James T. Hayward, Esq., of Boston. The bust of Hon. John Adams, presented by Samuel Nicholson, Esq. The addition of "Weir's painting copied from the original at Washington, representing the memorable scene of the embarkation of the Pilgrims at Delft-haven, would afford a valuable addition to the attractions of Pilgrim Hall, which it is hoped will be made, when the requisite means can be obtained for accomplishing so desirable an object. Among the antiquities in the Cabinet of the Pilgrim Society, are the following : A chair which belonged to Gov. Carver. The sword of Miles Standish, presented by William S. Williams, Esq. A pewter dish which belonged to Miles Stand- ish, presented by the late Joseph Head, Esq. An iron pot which belonged to Miles Standish, presented by the late John Watson, Esq. A brass steelyard, owned by Thomas South worth. A cane which belonged to William White, presented by Hon. John Reed. A dressing case which belonged to Wm. White. The gun-barrel with which King Philip was killed, pre- sented by Mr. John Cook, of Kingston. The original report of a Committee of the Society, indicates the sense entertained of his services : ' The undersigned, to whom was referred the report of Dr. Jaraes Thatcher, respecting the Iron Bailing around the Forefather's Rock, report, that the Society are indebted to Dr. Thatcher for this beautiful and costly monument, which while it secures the Pilgrim Rock from further depreda- tion, records for the benefit of posterity, the names of our fathers, and affords a pleasing subject of contemplation to many strangei's who visit us.' — Dr. Thacher died May 23, 1844, aged 90. 79 letter of king Philip to Gov. Prince, ^^Titten in 1662. A china mug and leather pocket-book which belonged to Thomas Clark. A piece of ingenious embroidery, in a frame, executed by Lorea Standish, a daughter of Miles Standish, presented by Rev. Lucius Alden, of East Bridgewater, An ancient deed, having the signature of Peregrine White, the first Englishman born in New England, and acknowledged before Gov. Josiah Winslow, June 9, 1673, presented by Mr. Sherman, of Marshfield. An ancient bond, dated the last day of June, 1688, having the signature of Peregrine White, presented by Mr. Wm. S. Russell, of Plymouth. An ancient deed written and acknowledged before Myles Standish, August 28, 1655, presented by Joseph F. Wadsworth, Esq., of Duxbury. An ancient instrument, the receipt of heirs of Gov. Thomas Prince, containing the signatures of Gov. Josiah Winslow, and Resolved White-, the brother of Pere- grine White. Also the signatures of Wm. Crow, John Freeman, Jona. Sparrow, John Trasie, Jeremiah Howe, Arthur Rowland, Isaac Barcar, Mark Snow, dated July 4, 1674, presented by Amos Otis, Esq., of Yar- mouth. An ancient deed, written by John Alden, with his signature as magistrate, July 2, 1653, presented by Isaac Fobes, Esq., of Bridgewater. A commission from Oliver Cromwell, to Gov. Ed- ward Winslow, dated April, 1654, presented by Pelham Winslow, Esq., of Boston. A bust of Henry Sargent, Esq., presented by his sons. 80 A chair which belonged to Elder William Brewster, presented by Mr. Brewster, of Duxbury. An ancient couch, which belonged to Gov. John Hancock, presented by Capt. Josiah Sturgess. A pewter dish, which belonged to Mr. John Atwood, bearing date 1642, presented by the late Rosseter Cot- ton, Esq., of Plymouth. A portrait of jNIajor General Benjamin Lincoln. An antique clock, which belonged to Gov. John Hancock, which was taken to West Bridgewater from Boston, at the time of the siege, presented by Mrs. IMary Waterman. A cane, made from the pear tree, set out by Gov. Thomas Prence, at Eastham, Cape Cod, about the year 1644, presented by Amos Otis, Esq., of Yarmouth. Besides the above, many valuable relics of the Pil- grims are scattered abroad in various quarters, and among others the large arm-chair which came over in the Mayflower, with staples attached to it, by which the same was fastened to the floor or deck, owned by Madam Warren, of Plymouth. A bead purse, wrought by Mrs. Penelope Pelham Winslow, wife of Gov. Josiah Win slow, while on her voyage to America; and a gold ring, worn by the Governor, and containing his hair, owned by Mrs. Anna Hayward, widow of the late Nathan Hayward, M.D. Both of the ladies above named were daughters of Pelham, the son of Gen. John Winslow. The silver canteen, and several pewter platters — marked E. W., which belonged to Gov. Edward Wins- low, and several other articles, owned by the Misses 81 Jane and Elizabeth F. Sever, of Kingston. The Fuller cradle, owned by Jacob Noyes, Esq., of Abington. A gun, measuring 7 feet, four and a half inches, in- cluding the stock, the length of the barrel 6 feet li inches, the calibre will carry 12 balls to the pound, the face of the lock 10 inches long, the whole weight of the gun, 20 lbs. 12 ounces ; a sword 3 feet, 5i inches long, .which belonged to John Thompson of INIiddle- borough, one of the early comers, who died in 1696, aged 80 years ; now owned by Capt. Zadock Thomp- son, of Halifax. A brass pistol, which belonged to the same individ- ual, and a halberd, having the date, 1623, cut on its face, are owned by the descendants of the late Adam Thompson, deceased. An arm chair, which belonged to Gov. William Bradford, used at the first celebration of the Old Colony Club in 1769, formerly owned by Dr. Lazerus Le Baron, and now by Nathaniel Russell, Esq., of Plymouth. Several valuable articles are deposited in the rooms of the Massachusetts Historical Society in Boston, viz. the swords of Gov. Carver, and Col. Benjamin Church ; the gunlock attached to the gun with which King Philip was killed ; a Bible which belonged to Isaac Allerton, and some other antiquities connected with Old Colony men and times. One important object with the founders of the Pil- grim Society was, to collect a Library illustrative of our early history, which it is hoped, w^ill be kept in mind to the better promotion of so desirable an end. There is also a library, consisting of miscellaneous 82 works, presented by various individuals, since the for- mation of the Pilgrim Society, in 1820. The Iron Railing in front of Pilgrim Hall, enclosing a part of Forefathers' Rock, was designed by the late George Brimmer, Esq., of Boston. The names inscribed upon it — 41 in number — are those who signed the com- pact on board the Mayflower, in Cape Cod harbor, Nov. 11, 1620. This raihng cost $410, and the funds were obtained by subscription. The records of the late Librarian and Cabinet Keeper abound with evidences of great efforts on the part of the Plymouth ladies, at various times, in pro- curing means to aid the Society in promoting its ob- jects. Besides the subscriptions obtained in Plymouth, Boston, and other places, by means of which the Hall was originally built, donations have been received from the heirs of the late Samuel Davis, Esq., of the lot on which the Hall stands ; from the late Dr. Nathaniel Lothrop, the sum of $500, and the late Miss Rebecca Frazier, of Duxbury, $500, which last bequest was specially to be applied for the purpose of procuring appropriate paintings. The Emharhation of the Ptlgrims at Delft-haven, July 22, 1620, a7id a Descrij)tion of Weii^^s Painting. 't was no earth-born passion That bade the adventurers stray ; The earth with all its fashion With them had passed away. Flint. The embarkation from Delft-haven, designates a point of exciting interest in the history of the Pilgrims ; and whether we regard it as a striking development o 83 the purest affections, and higher principles of our na- ture, or with reference to its general results on human affairs, possesses the strongest claims to attention, from the orator, poet and painter. Holland, at this point of tim.e, engi'ossed a large share of the tonnage owned by all Europe, and the prepara- tions, for even a remote voyage, of a vessel sixty tons burthen only, were not of unfrequent occurrence. Truth requires us not to confound the individuals con- cerned in this event among the ordinary adventurers of that time — but as influenced by motives of the high- est order, as the honored instruments of opening a new theatre of human action — where freedom, exhausted in her conflicts with the corruption of accumulated ages, might break from the old world, and breathe the invigorating atmosphere of the new. The parting scene at Leyden is thus described in Gov. Bradford's history, from which extracts have pre- viously been made. ' So being ready to depart, they had a day of solemn humiliation, their pastor taking his text from Ezra the 8th, 21, upon which he spent a part of the day very profitably, and very suitably to their present occasion. The rest of the time was spent in pouring out prayers to the Lord, with great fervency, mixed with abundance of tears. And the time being come when they must depart, they were accompanied with most of their brethren out of the city, unto a town sundry miles off called Delft-haven, where the ship lay ready to receive them. So they left that good and pleasant city, which had been their resting place near twelve years. But they knew they were PILGRIMS, m and looked not much on those things, but lifted up then' eyes to heaven, their dearest country, and so quieted their spirits.* When they came to the place, they found the ship and all things ready, and such of their . friends as could not come with them, followed after them, and sundry also came from Amsterdam,! to see them shipped, and to take their leave of them. That night was spent with little sleep by the most, but with friendly entertainment and christian discourse and other real expressions of true christian love. The next day, (July 22d,) the wind being fair, they went on board and their friends with them ; when truly doleful was the sight of that sad and mournful parting ; to see what sighs, and sobs, and prayers did sound amongst them ; what tears did gush from every eye, and pithy speeches pierced each other's heart ; that sundry of the Dutch strangers, that stood on the quay as spectators, could not refrain from tears. Yet comfortable and sweet it was to see such lively and true expressions of dear and unfeigned love. But the tide, which stays for no man, calling them away that were thus loth to de- part, their reverend pastor, falling down upon his knees, and they all with him, with watery cheeks commended them, with most fervent prayers to the Lord, and his * I think I may with singular propriety call their lives a pilgrimage. Most of them left England about the year 1609, after the truce with the Spaniards, young men between twenty and thirty years of age. They spent near twelve years among the Dutch, first at Amsterdam, afterwards at Ley- den. After having arrived to the meridian of life, the declining part was to be spent in another woi'ld, among savages, of whom every European must have received a most unfavorable, if not formidable idea. — Hutchinson, His- tory Mass. 2, 452. t About 50 miles from Delft-haven. 85 blessing; and then with mutual ennbraces and many tears, they took their leaves of one another, which proved their last leave to many of them. Thus hoist- ing, with a prosperous wind, we came in a short time to Southampton, where they found the bigger ship come from London, lying ready with all the rest of their company.' ^ The embarkation at Delft-haven, that scene of in- terest unparalleled, on which a pencil of your own has just enabled us to look back with tears and praise, and sympathy, and the fond pride of children ; that scene of few and simple incidents ; just the setting out of a handful of, not then, very famous persons, on a voyage, but which, as we gaze on it, begins to speak to you, as with the voices and melodies of an immortal hymn, which dilates and becomes idolized into the auspicious going forth of a colony, whose planting has changed the history of the world ; — a noble colony of devoted Christians, — educated, firm men, valiant soldiers, and honorable women ; a colony, on the commencement of whose heroic enterprise, the selectest influences of re- ligion seemed to be descending visibly ; and beyond whose perilous path are hung, the rainbow and the western star of empire.'* An obliging correspondent, — Mr. W. A. Gay, of Hingham, — has furnished the following description of Weir's painting of the embarkation. The scene is laid on the deck of the vessel. Mr, Robinson, their pastor, is making the parting prayer just before her departure. * Hon. Eufus Choate's Oration at New York, Dec. 22d, 1843. 8 86 Elder Brewster holds the open Bible ; Gov. Carver, Mr. Bradford, with their wives, form the centre group of the picture. On the right, Miles Standish, the soldier, with his wife Rose, who found an early grave in the new country. Mr. and Mrs. White, the parents of Peregrine, the first child born in the Colony, on the left. Beyond the centre group, Mr. Fuller is seen parting with his wife, who remains behind. Mr. and Mrs. Winslow, a newly married couple, were travelling on the continent at the time Mr. Rob- inson was preaching in Holland ; were so much pleased with him, they joined the company and came out with them. A boy leaning over the side of the vessel, belong- ing to Mr. Winslow's family, wears a silver canteen, which bears the initials E. W., now in existence. Captain Reynolds in the back ground, orders a sailor on board with the cradle in which Peregrine was rock- ed. His face expressive of double meaning, as it is said he had been bribed not to bring the company out. The screw which probably saved the vessel, lies in the foreground, with a group of armour, match locks, &c. Various figures, members of the different families, fill up the picture. Mr. Robinson remained behind. Spectators on the wharf could not refrain from tears at the ' sad and rnournful parting.' The picture is true to the minutest particular, in costume, and in color, to the ' sad colors ' of the time, and taste of the Pilgrims ; with some exception for 87 Mrs. Winslow, who being a bride, and of the wealthier class, was dressed accordingly. The whole picture is true to nature and the charac- ter of the scene. It was on board the Speedwell, and that small ves- sel held the germ of a republic. This painting is now in one of the panels in the Rotunda of the Capitol at Washington. PILGRIM SOCIETY. The Pilgrim Society was formed in 1820, by the citizens of Plymouth and others in New England, to commemorate the landing, and to honor the memory of those intrepid men who first stepped on Plym.outh Rock. The Constitution was adopted May 29th, 1820, and the following extract from the concluding part of its preamble, shows the purpose of its organization : * That these historical events should be perpetuated by durable monuments to be erected at Plymouth, is a desirable object, in which public feeling very laudably concurs, and which has led to the institution and in- corporation of the Pilgrim Society; We, therefore, many of us the lineal descendants, and all of us hold- ing their memory in respect and honor, approve, adopt and subscribe to the rules and regulations of the Pil- grim Society, as members of the same.' The condition of membership was formerly the pay- ment of ten dollars — now reduced to the sum of five dollars. An appropriate diploma has been prepared 88 for distribution to those who join the Society. The first Presidents of the Society, were Hon. Joshua Thomas, John Watson, Alden Bradford, and Nathaniel M. Davis, Esqs.* The officers for 1851, are Charles H. Warren, of Boston, President ; William Davis, Vice President Wm. S. Russell, Recording Secretary; Benjamin M. Watson, Corresponding Secretary ; Allen Danforth, Treasurer ; Lemuel D. Holmes, Librarian and Cabinet Keeper. John B. Thomas, Isaac L. Hedge, Thomas Russell, Schuyler Sampson, Winslow Warren, Abra- ham Jackson, Timothy Gordon, Andrew L. Russell, of Plymouth, and James T. Hayward and William Thomas, of Boston, Trustees. The following is a list of those who have delivered public addresses in commemoration of the landing of the fathers, in 1620. The asterisk prefixed to some of the names, designates those whose discourses have not been published. 1769, First celebration by Old Colony Club. 1770, Second celebration by Old Colony Club. 1771, Third celebration by Old Colony Club. 1772, Rev. Chandler Robbins — For Old Colony Club. 1773, Rev. Charles Turner — For Old Colony Club. By the town and by the First Parish. 1774, Rev. Gad Hitchcock, Pembroke. 1775, Rev. Samuel Baldwin, Hanover. 1776, Rev. Sylvanus Conant, Middleborough. * Only one Officer of the Society, appointed at its first organization in 1820, now survives, viz. the Hon, William Stiirgis, of Boston, who was a Trustee. 1777, Rev. Samuel West, Dartmouth. 1778, Rev. Timothy Hilliard, Barnstable.* 1779, Rev. William Shaw, Marshfield.* 1780, Rev. Jonathan Moor, Rochester.* From this time the public observances of the day- were suspended, till 1794, Rev. Chandler Robbins, D.D,, of Plymouth. 1795, 1 1796, [ Private Celebration. 1797, j 1798, Dr. Zaccheus Bartlett, Plymouth, Oration.* 1799, The day came so near that appointed for the ordination of Rev. Mr. Kendall, that it was not cele- brated by a public discourse, 1800, John Davis, Esq., Boston, Oration.* 1801, Rev. John Allyn, D.D., Duxbury. 1802, John Quincy Adams, Esq., Quincy, Oration. 1803, Rev. John T. Kirkland, D.D., Boston.* 1804, (Lord's Day) Rev.James Kendall, Plymouth.* 1805, Alden Bradford, Esq., Boston. 1806, Rev. Abiel Holmes, D.D., Cambridge. 1807, Rev. James Freeman, D.D., Boston.* 1808, Rev. Thaddeus M. Harris, Dorchester. 1809, Rev. Abiel Abbot, Beverly. 1811, Rev. John Elliot, D.D., Boston. 1815, Rev. James Flint, Bridgewater. 1817, Rev. Horace Holley, Boston.* 1818, Wendell Davis, Esq., Sandwich.* 1819, Francis C. Gray, Esq., Boston. 1820, Daniel Webster, Esq., Boston, by Pilgiim So- ciety. 8* 90 1824, Professor Edward Everett, Cambridge, by Pil- grim Society. 1831, Kev. John Brazer, Salem, by First Parish in Plymouth.* The following anniversaries were commemorated by the Third Parish in Plymouth. 1826, Rev. Richard S. StoiTs, Braintree. 1827, Rev. Lyman Beecher, D.D., Boston. 1828, Rev. Samuel Green, Boston. 1829, Rev. Daniel Huntington, Bridgewater. 1830, Rev. Benjamin Wisner, D.D., Boston. 1831, Rev. John Codman, D.D., Dorchester. 1832, Rev. Convers Francis, of Watertown, for the First Parish. Rev. Mr. Bigelow, of Rochester, for the Third Parish. 1833, Rev. Mr. Barrett, of Boston, for the First Parish. 1834, Rev. G. W. Blagden, of Boston, for the Pil- grim Society. 1835, Hon. Peleg Sprague, by Pilgrim Society. 1837, Rev. Robert B. Hall, by Pilgrim Society.* 1838, Rev. Thomas Robbins, by Pilgrim Society.* 1841. Joseph R. Chandler, Esq., of Philadelphia, by Pilgrim Society.* 1845, a public celebration, religious services in the First church, a public dinner and addresses. 1846, Rev. Mark Hopkins, D.D., President of Wil- liams College. 1848. Rev. Samuel M. Worcester, D.D., of Salem, for the Robinson Society. 91 The following resolution was unanimously adopted at a meeting of the Society in May, 1850 : ' Resolved, that it is expedient to erect a monument on or near the Rock on which the Pilgrims landed, and to make other improvements in the vicinity, and that the Trus- tees have full power to take such measures as they may deem expedient, to carry these objects into effect.' Judging from the opinions expressed by intelligent vis- itors from almost every part of the Union, the objects proposed in the foregoing resolution may be fully accomplished, whenever the requisite measures are adopted, and a suitable appeal is made to the public, for its countenance and aid in so desirable a work. On the 27th day of May, 1850, a Committee, con- sisting of James Savage, Charles H. Warren, Nathaniel B. Shurtleff, Boston, Abraham Jackson, and Timothy Gordon of Plymouth, presented a Report, recommend- ing the following : ' That the celebration in future of the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, be held on the tiventy-jirst day of December ; but when that day falls on Sunday, then to be held on the twenty-second.' This report was unanimously accepted, and the follow- ing vote was passed : ' That this Society will hereafter regard the tvjenty-jirst day of December, as the true anniversary of the landing of the Pilgrims.' Truth is desirable at all times, and on all subjects, and we trust the true day will at no distant period be adopted as that of celebration, though present feelings and associations may cling to the twenty-second in preference. THE OLD COLONY CLUB. As our public anniversary celebrations originated with this association, some account of its origin will doubtless be interesting to the reader. It was formed in 1769, as will be seen from the following extracts copied from the records which are now in existence. January 16f/z, 1769. — ' "We whose names are under- written, having maturely weighed and seriously con- sidered the many disadvantages and inconveniences that arise from intermixing with the company at the taverns in this town, and apprehending that a well regulated club will have a tendency to prevent the same, and to increase, not only the pleasure and hap- piness of the respective members, but, also, will con- duce to their edification and inslruction, do hereby incorporate ourselves into a society, by the name of the Old Colony Club. For the better regulation of which we do consent and agi'ee to observe all such rules and laws, as shall from time to time be made by the clab. Dated at our Hall, in Plymouth, the day and year above written. Isaac Lothrop, John Thomas, Pelham "Winslow, Edward Winslow, Jr. Thomas Lothrop, John Watson, Elkanah Cushman. Becemler ISfJi. — At a meeting of the Club, voted, that Friday next be kept by this Club in commemora- tion of the landing of our worthy ancestors in this 93 place ; that the Club dine together at Mr. Howland's, and that a number of gentlemen be invited to spend the evening with us at the Old Colony Hall. Old Colony Day. First Celebration of the Landing of our Forefathers. — Friday, December 22. The Old Colony Club, agi*eeably to a vote passed the 18th in- stant, met, in commemoration of the landing of their worthy ancestors in this place. On the morning of the said day, after discharging a cannon, was hoisted upon the hall an elegant silk flag, with the following inscription, ''Old Colony^ 1620. At eleven o'clock, A. M., the members of the club appeared at the hall, and from thence proceeded to the house of Mr. How- land, inn-holder, which is erected upon the spot where the first licensed house in the Old Colony formerly stood; at half after two a decent repast was served, which consisted of the following dishes, viz. 1, a large baked Indian whortleberry pudding ; 2, a dish of sauquetach, (succatach, corn and beans boiled together ;) 3, a dish of clams ; 4, a dish of oysters and a dish of cod-fish ; 5, a haunch of venison, roasted by the first Jack brought to the colony ; 6, a dish of sea fowl ; 7, a dish of frost fish and eels ; 8, an apple pie ; 9, a course of cranberry tarts, and cheese made in the Old Colony. These articles were dressed in the plainest manner (all appearance of luxury and extravagance being avoided, in imitation of our ancestors, whose memory we shall ever respect.) At 4 o'clock, P. M. the mem- bers of our club, headed by the steward, carrying a folio 94 volume of the laws of the Old Colony, hand in hand, marched in procession to the hall. Upon the appear- ance of the procession in front of the hall, a number of descendants from the first settlers in the Old Colony, drew up in a regular file, and discharged a volley of small arms, succeeded by three cheers, which were re- turned by the Club, and the gentlemen generously treat- ed. After this, appeared at the private grammar school opposite the hall, a number of young gentlemen, pupils of Mr. Wadsworth, who, to express their joy upon this occasion, and their respect for the memory of their an- cestors, in the most agi'eeable manner joined in singing a song very applicable to the day. At sunsetting a cannon was discharged, and the flag struck. In the evening the hall was illuminated, and the following gen- tlemen, being previously invited, joined the club, viz. Col. George Watson, Capt. Thomas Davis, Col. James Warren, Dr. Nathaniel Lothrop, James Hovey, Esq., Mr. John Russell, Thoms Mayhew, Esq., Mr. Edward Clark, William Watson, Esq., Mr. Alexander Scammell, Capt. Gideon White, Mr. Peleg Wadsworth, Capt. Elkanah Watson, Mr. Thomas Southworth Rowland. The President being seated in a large and venerable chair,* which was formerly possessed by William Brad- ford, the second worthy Governor of the Old Colony, and presented to the club, by our friend Dr. Lazarus Le Baron of this town, delivered several appropriate * This ancient chair is now in the family of Nathaniel Russell, Esq. 95 toasts.* After spending the evening in an agreeable manner, in recapitulating and conversing upon the many and various advantages of our forefathers in the first settlement of this country, and the growth and in- crease of the same, — at eleven o'clock in the evening a cannon was again fired, three cheers given, and the Club and company withdrew.' In 1770. The anniversary of the landing was cele- brated much in the same manner as in the preceding year, with the addition of an address by Edward Winslow, Jun., Esq.,f the first ever delivered on any similar occasion. * 1. To the memory of our brave and pious ancestors, the first settlers of the Old Colony. 2. To the memory of John Carver and all the other worthy Governors of the Old Colony. 3. To the memory of that pious man and faithful historian, Mr. Secretary Morton. 4. To the memory of that brave man and good officer, Capt. Miles Standish. • 5. To the memory of Massasoit, our first and best friend, and ally of the Natives. 6. To the memory of Mr. Robert Cushman, who preached the first sermon in New England. 7. The union of the Old Colony and Massachusetts. 8. May every person be possessed of the same noble sentiments against arbitrary power that our worthy ancestors were endowed with. 9. May every enemy to civil or religious liberty meet the same or a worse fate than Arch-Bishop Laud. 10. May the Colonies be speedily delivered from all the burthens and op- pressions they now labor under. 1 1. A speedy and lasting union between Great Britain and her Colonies. 12. Unanimity, prosperity, and happiness to the Colonies. t A son of the above, John F. Wentworth Winslow, Esq., now reside? at Woodstock, in New Brunswick, is Sheriff of Carlton Co., and the oldest male descendant of Gov. Edward Winslow, who came iu the Mayflower. 96 CAPE COD. Cape Cod was discovered by Bartholomew Gosnold, on the 15th of May, 1602, and was visited by Henry Hudson, in Aug. 1609, and by Capt. John Smith, in 1614. It was named by Gosnold, from the abundance of codfish taken in its neighborhood. Its harbor is considered one of the best on the New England coast for vessels of every size. The infamous conduct of Capt. Hunt, (so indignantly condemned by Smith,)in kidnap- ping 27 of the natives, in 1614, had justly incensed the tribe of Nauset, to which place five of them belonged. To this cause their hostile conduct towards the Pilgrims may properly be ascribed, for it appears that after- wards, when explanations were made, disclaiming any participation in the conduct of Hunt, friendly relations existed, which were rarely interrupted. Cape Cod, Nantucket, and New Bedford, have been distinguished for the nautical skill and enterprise of their citizens, un- surpassed by any equal population in the world, and by our wisest statesmen, have been regarded as the main supports of our naval strength. On this subject, Edmund Burk, in 1774, addressing the House of Com- mons on American affairs, pronounced an eulogy de- serving of grateful remembrance. ' No sea, but what is vexed by their fisheries. No climate, that is not wit- ness of their toils. Neither the perseverance of Holland, nor the actfvy of France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity of English enterprise, ever carried their most 97 perilous mode of hardy industry to the extent to which it has been pursued by this recent people ; a people who are still in the gristle, and not hardened into man- hood.' The population of Cape Cod is 35,279 ; Nantucket, 8,542 ; Dukes County, 4,540 ; New Bedford, 16,464. Aggregate, 64,735. PLYMOUTH COLONY RECORDS. In the year 1818, three Commissioners, viz., James Freeman, Samuel Davis and Benjamin R. Nichols, * were appointed by the Legislature of the State, and were authorized to cause the records to be transcribed, and afterwards to return the originals to the Register of Deeds' Office in Plymouth, and to deposit the copies in the Office of the Secretary of the Commonwealth. Full Indexes were made to them, and the volumes were interleaved and new bound. The original char- ter of the Colony being considerably defaced, it was repaired and placed in a port folio, with the seal of the Plymouth Company in England annexed to it. The seal is about four inches in diameter. It was much broken, but the parts were carefully cemented and secured together, and inclosed in a case, so that the orignal impression may be seen. The records are now arranged chronologically, and in such a manner that the legislative proceedings or court orders form six separate volumes ; the wills and inventories four ; deeds six ; laws one ; acts of Com- missioners of United Colonies two. There is also an 98 imperfect volume of the records of these Commission- ers, being, as is supposed, their original minutes. There is also one volume of Indian deeds, bound up with the Treasurer's accounts, and lists of freemen, and one volume of actions, marriages, births, and deaths, making in the whole, twenty-two volumes of original records. The copies made from the above, (deposited in the Office of the Secretary of State,) form eleven folio volumes, and are indexed like the originals. The records of the Commissioners of the United Colonies were formerly transcribed and published by Ebenezer Hazard, Esq. They compose nearly the whole of his second volume. This volume was compared by Mr. Nichols with the original records, and corrected by him ; and the volume so corrected is deposited, with the copies above mentioned, in the Office of the Secretary of the Commonwealth. They are kept in a separate case from the other records of the Common- wealth. All the laws and legislative proceedings are copied with such parts of the other records as were thought to be useful. The parts not copied are most of the private deeds, wills, and inventories. Care was taken to preserve in the copies the original paging and ortho- graphy. The following statement will give a general view of the contents of the records — There is nothing recorded in 1620, except a plan of the lots laid out at Plymouth.* * See page 30. 99 The next records are the allotments of land in 1623,* to the passengers in the Mayflower, Fortune and Ann, and a law establishing the trial by jury. In 1627 there was a division of the cattle among the inhabitants. There are but few other records previous to 1632. In that year the General Court of Plymouth began to keep a regular journal of their proceedings, which they continued to the close of the colony, excepting the years 1687 and 1688, during the government of Sir Edmund Andros. In 1636, a code of laws was made, with a preamble containing an account of the settlement of the Colony. Other laws were added at subsequent periods, and when any of the former were altered or repealed, this was done by making erasures and interlineations, in- stead of passing original actvS. In the copy now made all these erasures and interlineations are noticed. Li 1658 the laws were revised and entered in another book. Most of them were transcribed from the former code, and the dates when they were first enacted in- serted in the margin. Other laws were inserted after- ward, till 1664, when they appear to have been again revised. A third book of laws was then made, similar to the former. This book contains all the laws passed from that time till 1682. The laws of the colony thus existed in three sepa- rate parts. They are now bound together and indexed, and a complete copy made of them. * One acre, near the town, to each one in every family. 100 There was another code made in 1671, and printed. The manuscript of this code no longer exists. But one of the printed copies may be found in the library of the Historical Society, bound up with the laws of Massachusetts and Connecticut. This code is very different from the former. It contains some new laws, and omits most of those which before existed. From these records a knowledge may be obtained of all the principal men who lived in the Colony, of the Governors, Assistants, Deputies, or Representa- tives, Selectmen of towns, and other civil officers, military officers and freemen. There are lists of all the freemen in the Colony at several periods, also records of mamages, births, and deaths. The latter records, how- ever, are imperfect. Marriages were never solemnized by ministers, but magistrates were especially appointed for that purpose. The following extracts from the O. C. Records, 1st vol. of Deeds, being the first acts of legislation on Record^ may interest the reader. Trial by Jury, It was ordained 17 Desemb Anno 1623, by the court then held that all criminall facts ; and also all matters of trespasses ; and debts betweene man and man should be tried by the verdict of twelve honest men to be empanelled by authority in forme of a jm'ie upon their oath. JExportatio7i of Timber proJdbited. It was decreed by the Com-t held the 29th of March Anno, 1626, that for the preventing of such inconveniences, as doe, and may befall the plantation by the want of timber, that no man 101 of what condition soever sell or transport any manner of workes as frames for houses plankes board shiping shalops, boates, canoes, or whatsoever may tende to the destrucktion of timber aforesaid how little soever the quantitie be, without the consent approbation and like- ing of the Governour and Counsell ; and if any be found faulty herein and shall imbarke or any way con- vey to that end to make sale of any the goods afore- said expressed or intended by this decree the same to be forfited and a fine of twise the valew for all so sould to be duly taken by the Governour for the use and benefit of the Company. Sandicraftsmen forbidden to work for strangers. It was further decreed the day and year above written for the preventing such abuses as doe & may arise amongst us that no handicraftsmen of what profession so ever as taylors shoemakers carpenters joyners smiths sawiers or whatsoever w*"^ do or may reside or belong to this plantation of Plymouth shall use their science or trades at home or abroade for any strangers or foreigners till such time as the necessity of the colony be served without the consent of the Govern o^ and councill, the breach thereof to be punished at their discretion. JSfo corn, beans, or peas to be exported. It was ordain- ed the s'^ 29 of March 1626 ; for the preventing scarsity as alsoe for the furthering of our trade that no corne beanes or peaes be transported, imbarked or sold to that end to be conveyed out of the colony without the leave and license of the Governour and counsell ; The breach whereof to be punished with lose of the goods so taken 9* 102 or proved to be sold ; and the seller further find or pun- ished or both at the discression of the Gov'" and coun- cill. Dwelling houses to he covered with hoard or pale. It was agreed upon by the whole court held the sixth of January 1627, that from hence forward no dwelling house was to be covered with any kind of thache as straw reed &c. but with either board or pale and the like to wit of all that were to be new built in the towne. Several fires had occurred before this period, and this law was doubtless intended to prevent similar oc- currences in future. 1627. Edward Winslow hath sold unto Capt Myles Standish his six shares in the red CovvT for and in con- sideration of five pounds ten shillings to be pd in corne at the rate of six shillings p. bushell freeing the sd Edward from all manner of charge belonging to the said shares during the terme of the nine yeares they are let out to halves and taking the benefit thereof. The value of the Red Cow in 1627, is estimated at about $160 in our currency — reference being had to the comparative value of money — between that time and the present. The first importation of cattle was made under the direction of Edward Winslow, in 1623, and consisted of one bull and three heifers. In 1627, after the Pil- grims had bought out the interest of the merchant ad- venturers of London, for the sum of eighteen hundred pounds sterling, to be paid in annual installments of 108 200 pounds, the cattle on hand, which had increased to twelve in number, were divided in the following man- ner — Twelve equal lots were made, consisting of thirteen persons to each lot — the names of which are all recorded. These lots were drawn for, by the parties concerned, as was the usual Pilgrim practice. The whole number of share holders being 156, affording the first recorded Cattle Sliotv in New England. The Dutch Emhassy^ from New Netherlands to Plymouth Colony^ in 1627. The visit of Isaack De Raisiers, in behalf of the Dutch West India Company, established at Manhat- tan, now New York, to the Plymouth Colony, in the year 1627, appears to have proved not only highly beneficial in its results to the parties concerned, but may justly be regarded as a starting point in the diplo- matic relations of our country, which have since ex- tended to every part of the civilized world : while the curious observer of human affairs, in tracing our com- mercial progress through the lapse of more than two centuries, finds a rapidity and extent of growth proba- bly unexampled in the annals of maritime enterprise. The correspondence between the parties to this early negotiation, is fortunately preserved, and appears highly creditable to both. The whole affair acquires additional interest, from the fact, that De Rasiers after his visit, addressed a letter to one of his employers, containing a minute description of Plymouth and other parts of 104 the Old Colony, which has recently been rescued from oblivion, while nearly all other Records pertaining to the celebrated West India Company, are irretrievably lost. The following extracts,* which briefly describe the Dutch establishment above refen*ed to, are here in- troduced for the benefit of the reader* ' The territory bounding on the river discovered by Hudson in 1609, and explored by the Dutch, between that date and 1614, together with the sea coasts between the fortieth and forty -fifth degrees of North latitude, received, in the year last mentioned, from the charter of the States General, or the United Provinces, the name of New Netherlands, The exclusive right of trading with this extensive region was granted by the charter for three years, from the first day of January, 1615, to Gerrit Jacob Witsen, of Amsterdam, and other merchants associated with him, who had been concerned in the previous voyages to the Island of Manhattan and in the trading houses established there, and on Hudson river, and who were now incorporated by the name of the United New-Netherland Company. The Dutch rule dating its commencement, in 1614, lasted continuously, but fifty years, ten of which had passed away before the settlements were placed under a regular local gov- ernment. So slow was their after growth, that in 1664, when the colony was surrendered to the English, its population did not exceed 10,000 souls.' ' On the 3d of June, 1621, the States General established by law, the famous " Chartered West India Company." ' * See the address of Hon. B. F. Butler, New York His. Colls. New Series^ No. 2, page 13. 105 From an article in the New York His. Collections, vol. 2d, New Series, page 278, entitled. Early Coloniz- ation of New Netherland, it appears, that the Colony had, in 1625, increased to two hundred souls ; and in 1628, numbered 270 souls, including men, women and children. In 1625, 103 head of cattle were imported, of which some 20 were lost. It is quite remarkable, that no interview occurred sooner between the Pil- gi'ims and the Dutch. In the year 1623, intelligence arrived that Massasoit was suddenly seized with dan- gerous sickness, and that a Dutch ship had been driven on shore before his dwelling, and Gov. Winslow was deputed to visit him. Among other reasons assigned for this measure, in Winslow's Relation, was the fol- lowing : ' and the rather because we desired to have some conference with the Dutch, not knowing when we should have so fit an occasion.' This is the only reference to the Dutch, in our early history, after the landing, till the visit of De Rasiers in 1627. The ship had sailed before Winslow arrived at the residence of Massasoit. [THIS* year we had letters sent us from the Dutch plantation, of whom we had heard much by the natives, but never could hear from them nor meet with them before themselves thus ^^^:it to us, and after sought us out ; their letters were wTit in a very fair hand, the one in French, and the other in Dutch, but were one ver- batim, so far as the tongue would bear. * See Mass. His. Collections, vol. 3, first series, for the entire correspond- ence. 106 Here follows a letter* in Low Dutch, from Isaac de Razier at Manhatas, in Fort Amsterdam, Mar. 9, 1627, N. S., to the Governour of New Plymouth. I will not trouble myself to translate this letter, see- ing the effect of it will be understood by the answer which now follows in English, though writ to them in Dutch.] To the Honorable and Worshipful the Director and Council of New Netherland, our very loving and worthy friends and Christian neighbours. THE Governour and Council of Plymouth in New England wish your Hours Worships all happiness, and prosperity in this life, and eternal rest and glory with Christ Jesus our Lord in the world to come. We have received your letters, wherein appeareth your good will and friendship toward us, but is ex- pressed with over high titles, and more than belongs to us, or than is meet for us to receive : But for your good will and congratulation of our prosperity in this small beginning of our poor colony, we are much bound unto you, and with many thanks do acknowledge the same ; taking it both for a gi'eat honour done unto us, and for a certain testimony of your love, and good neighbor- hood. Now these are further to give your H,onours, Worships, and Wisdoms to understand, that it is no small joy to hear, that it hath pleased God to move his Majesty's heart, not only to confirm that ancient amity, alliance, and friendship, and other contracts formerly made, and ratified by his predecessors of famous mem- ory ; but hath himself (as you say) and we likewise * A part only of this letter is here copied. 107 have been informed, strengthened the same with a new union, the better to resist the pride of that common enemy the Spaniards, from whose cruelty the Lord keep us both, and our native countries. Now for as much as this is sufficient to unite us together in love, and good neighborhood in all our dealings ; yet are many of us further tied by the good and courteous en- treaty which we have found in your country ; having lived there many years, with freedom and good content, as many of our friends do to this day ; for which we are bound to be thankful, and our children after us, and shall never forget the same, but shall heartily desire your good and prosperity, as our own forever. Like- wise for your friendly proposition and offer, to accomo- date and help us with any commodities or merchandize, which you have and we want, either for beaver, otters, or other wares, is to us very acceptable, and we doubt not but in short time, we may have profitable com- merce and trade together : By the Governour and Council, your Honours' and Worships' very good friends and neighbours. New Plymouth, March 19th. [NEXT follows their reply to this our answer, very friendly, but maintaining their right and liberty to trade in these parts, which we had desired they would for- bear ; alleging that as we had authority and commis- sion from our king ; so they had the like from the States of Holland, which they would defend.] August 7, 1627. Monsieur Monseignieur, William Bradford, Governeur in New Plernuen. 108 This will I put in English and so will end with theirs, viz. After the wishing of all good unto you, this serves to let you understand, that we have received your (acceptable) letters, dated the 14th of the last month, by John Jacobson of Wiring, who besides, by word of mouth, hath reported unto us your kind and friendly entertainment of him ; for which cause (by the good liking and approbation of the Directors and Council) I am resolved to come myself, in friendship to visit you, that we may by word of mouth friendly communicate of things together ; as also to report unto you the good will and favour that the Honourable Lords of the au- thorized West Indian Company bear towards you. And to show our willingness of your good accommo- dation, have brought with me some cloth of three sorts and colours, and a chest of white sugar, as also some seawan, &c. not doubting but, if any of them be service- able unto you, we shall agree well enough about the prices thereof. Also John Jacobson aforesaid hath told me, that he came to you over land in six houres, but I have not gone so far this three or four years, wherefore I fear my feet will fail me ; so I am constrained to entreat you to afford me the easiest means, that I may, with least weariness, come to congratulate with you : So leaving other things to the report of the bearer, shall herewith end; remembering my hearty salutations to yourself and friends, &c. from a-board the bark Nas- sau, the 4th of October ; before Frenchman's point. Your affectionate friend. Anno 1627. Isaac De Razier. 109 [SO, according to his request, we sent our boat* for him, who came honourably attended with a noise of trumpeters ; he was their upper commis, or chief mer- chant, and second to the Governour ; a man of a fair and genteel behaviour, but soon after fell into disgrace amongst them ; by reason of their factions ; and thus at length we came to meet and deal together. We at this time bought sundry of their commodities, especial- ly their seivan or ivampampeach^ which was the begin- ning of a profitable ti'ade with us and the Indians : We furthur understood, that their masters were willing to have friendship with us and to supply us with sun- dry commodities, and offered us assistance against the French, if need were. The which, though we know it was with an eye to then* own profit, yet we had reason both kindly to accept it and make use of it : So after this sundry of them came often to us, and many letters passed between us, the which I will pass by, as being about particular dealings, and would not be here very pertinent ; only upon this passage we wrote one to their Lords and masters ; as folio we th.f] Letter of Isaack de Rasieres. The valuable and highly interesting letter of De Rasieres, written soon after visiting Plymouth in 1627, first appeared in the N. York Hist. Colls., vol. 2, new series, and that part of it having special reference to the Old Colony is copied here by permission of John * The boat was sent to Scusset Harbor, in Sandwich, from whence to Manomet River, on Buzzard's Bay, the distance by land is about six miles. t The letter here alluded to is necessarily omitted. 10 110 Romeyn Brodhead, Esq., late Secretary of Legation at the Court of London, by whose instrumentality it was recently obtained in Plolland.* The introductory note of ]\Ii\ Brodhead affords valuable illustrations, connected with the letter itself, which cannot fail to be highly appreciated by the reader. Note. — While engaged in making researches as Agent of the State of New York, in the Archives at the Hague, in 1841, it occurred to me that the MSS. Department of the Royal Library there might contain something relating to our History, and with the assist- ance of Mr. Campbell, one of the Deputy Librarians, a careful examination was accordingly made in that Repository. But with the exception of the fragment of one manuscript, a copy of which is now in the Secretary of State's Office, at Albany, [Hoi. Doc, vol. in., p. 90.] nothing was then found. It seems, how- ever, that a parcel of MSS. has recently been purchased for the Library, and among these Mr. Campbell's kind research has detected the letter, a copy of which he has made for the New York Historical Society. In the following translation I have endeavored to render, as literally as possible, the original of a document, the high value of which will be readily appreciated, when it is considered that it is the earliest description we have of the Colony of New Netherland and its neighbor- hood, from an eye witness. * The indefatigable investigations of Mr. Brodhead, in England, France and Holland, have resulted in the acquisition of many important documents connected with our colonial history, for an account of which see his Address before the New York Hist. Society, Nov. 1844. Ill Wassenaer, it is true, in his ' Historiache Verhael,' — a very rare work, which I have lately had the good fortune to meet with in London, — gives several very interesting particulars respecting New Netherland, as early as 1623 and 1624; and we all know that De Laet published in 1625 an account of the discoveries of Hudson and the other early navigators to our coast, whose journals, he distinctly states, he had before him when he wrote. Bat the earliest detailed description of the Island of New York, by a person who visited it himself, in 1626, is now, for the first time, brought to light. It will be remembered, that among the docu- ments found in the Archives at the Hague, is a letter of Mr. P. Schagen to the States General, dated at Amsterdam, November 5, 1626, [Hoi. Doc, vol. I., p. 155.] in which he reports the arrival of the ship " Arms of Amsterdam," which sailed from the North River on the 23 of September, and brought the intelligence ot the purchase of Manhatten Island from the Indians, for the sum of about Twenty-four Dollars. The writer of the following letter, Isaack de Rasieres, went out passenger in this very ship, which arrived in New Netherland, as he tells us, on the 27th of July, 1626 ; and as the purchase of the Island of Manhatten was made before the 23rd of September following, when the ' Arms of Amsterdam ' returned to Holland, it is quite probable he was himself one of the witnesses of that interesting event. De Rasieres, (whose name has been variously and incorrectly spelled in our published documents,) seems to have been a French Protestant, whose ancestors, seeking refuge from persecution, set- 112 tied themselves on the River Waal, in Guelderland, and were hence called ' Walloons.' He was probably a protege of Mr. Samuel Blommaert, one of the lead- ing Directors of the West India Company, to whom, as a mark of his gi-atitude, he addressed his interesting letter. On his arrival at New Netherland, De Rasieres became ' Opper Koopman,' or Chief Commissary un- der Director Minuit, and also acted as Secretary of the Colony. In this capacity he conducted a corres- pondence with Governor Bradford, of New Plymouth, in March, 1627, and in the following October he was himself despatched on an embassy to that Colony, where he was honorably received by Bradford, who speaks of him as the Dutch ' Upper Commies, or chief Merchant, and second to the Governor ; a man of fair and genteel behavior,' — adding that he 'soon after fell into disgrace among them by reason of their factions.' This is all we know of De Rasieres ; and without any precise information as to the cause of the seizure of his ' things and notes,' which he mentions in the beginning of his letter, we cannot but regret a cir- cumstance but for which, as he himself tells us, we should have perhaps been gratified by a still more ample and detailed account than the one he has now left us, of the early days of New Netherland. De Rasieres' letter has no date, but it was evidently written from memory, and after his return to Holland, — probably about the close of 1627. Unfortunately, it is defective ; and, judging from the part immediately following the hiatus, we may reasonably infer that the missing portion would have been of the highest interest to us, It is 113 quite probable that De Rasieres gave some particulars of the purchase of the Island, as well as of the politi- cal and commercial situation of the infant colony, and of the topography of the country between Manhatten and Narragansett Bay. But still quite enough remains to us to induce lively congratulation that a happy chance has now placed so precious a fragment within our reach. J. Romeyn Brodhead. London, 17th August, 1848. Coming out of the river Nassau* you sail east-and- by North about fourteen miles, along the coast, a half a mile from the shore, and you then come to ' French- man's Point,'! ^^ ^ small river where those of Patucx- etj have a house made of hewn oak planks, called Aptucxet,§ where they keep two men, winter and sum- mer, in order to maintain the trade and possession. Where also they have built a shallop, in order to go and look after the trade in sewan, in Sloup's Bay|| and thereabouts, because they are afraid to pass Cape Malabaer, and in order to avoid the length of the way ; which I have prevented for this yearll by selling them * Karraganset Bay. t De Rasieres dates his letter to Gov. Bradford, of 4th October, 1627, from •aboard the barque Nassau,' off this point. [See Coll. N. Y. Hist. Soc, "Vol. 1., new series, p. 362.] I The Indian name for New Plymouth. § See Bradford's description of Manomet, in Prince, p. 67 ; and see also Coll. N. Y. Hist. Soc, Vol. L, new series, pp. 357, 358. II The western entrance to Narraganset Bay. T[ See also Bradford's account of this transaction, in Coll. N. Y. Hist. Soc, Vol. I., new series, p. 357. 10* 114 fifty fathoms of sewan, because the seeking after sewan by them is prejudicial to us, inasmuch as they would, by so doing, discover the trade in furs ; which if they were to find out, it would be a great trouble for us to maintain, for they already dare to threaten that if we will not leave off dealing with that people, they will be obliged to use other means ; if they do that now, while they are yet ignorant how the case stands, what will they do when they do get a notion of it ? From Aptucxet the English can come in six hours, through the woods, passing several little rivulets of fresh water, to New Plymouth, the principal place in the country Patucxet, so called in their ' Octroye ' from His Majesty in England. New Plymouth lies in a large bay to the north of Cape Cod, or Mallabaer, east and west from the said [north] point of the cape, which can be easily seen in clear weather. Directly before the commenced town lies a sand bank, about twenty paces broad, whereon the sea breaks violently with an easterly and north easterly wind. On the north side there lies a small island where one must run close along, in order to come before the town ; then the ships run behind that bank and lie in a very good road-stead. The bay is very full of fish [chiefly] of cod, so that the Governor before named,* has told me that when the people have a desire for fish, they send out two or three persons in a sloop, whom they remun- erate for their trouble, and who bring them, in three or four hours' time, as much fish as the whole community * Probably in the portion of this letter which is unfortunately missing. 115 require for a whole day — and they muster about fifty families. At the south side of the town there flows down a small river of fresh water, very rapid, but shallow, which takes its rise from several lakes in the land above, and there empties into the sea; where in April and the beginning of May there come so many herring* from the sea which want to ascend that river, that it is quite surprising. This river the English have shut in with planks, and in the middle with a little door, which slides up and down, and at the sides with trellice work, through which the water has its course, but which they can also close with slides. At the mouth they have constructed it with planks, like an eel pot, with wings, where in the middle is also a sliding door, and with trellice work at the sides, so that between the two [dams] there is a square pool, into which the fish aforesaid come swimming in such shoals, in order to get up above, where they deposit their spawn, that at one tide there are 10,000 to 12,000 fish in it, which they shut off in the rear at the ebb, and close up the trellices above, so that no more water comes in ; then the water runs out through the lower trellices and they draw out the fish with baskets, each according to the land he cultivates, and carry them to it, depositing in each hill three or four fishes, and in these they plant their maize, which grows as luxuriantly therein as though it were the best manure in the world : and if * In the original Dutch, ' elft,' is generally translated Shad,— perhaps it would be more properly rendered alewives. J. r. b. 116 they do not lay this fish therein, the maize will not grow, so that such is the nature of the soil. New Plymouth lies on the slope of a hill stretch- ing east towards the sea-coast, with a broad street about a cannon shot of 800 [yards] long, leading down the hill ; with a [street] crossing in the middle, north- wards to the rivulet, and southwards to the land. The houses are constructed of hewn planks, with gardens also enclosed behind and at the sides with hewn planks, so that their houses and court yards are arranged in very good order, v/ith a stockade against a sudden attack ; and at the ends of the streets there are three wooden gates. In the centre, on the cross street, stands the Governor's house, before which is a square enclos- ure upon which four patereros [steen-stucken] are mounted, so as to flank along the streets. Upon the hill, they have a large square house, with a flat roof, made of thick sawn planks, stayed with oak beams, upon the top of which they have six cannons, which shoot iron balls of four and five pounds, and command the surrounding country. The lower part they use for their church, where they preach on Sundays and the usual holidays. They assemble by beat of drum, each with his musket or firelock, in front of the cap- tain's door ; they have their cloaks on and place them- selves in order, three abreast, and are led by a sergeant without beat of drum. Behind comes the Governor, in a long robe ; beside him, on the right hand, comes the preacher with his cloak on, and on the left hand the cap- tain with his side arms and cloak on, and with a small cane in his hand, — and so they march in good order. 117 and each sets his arms down near him. Thus they are constantly on their guard night and day. Their government is after the English form. The Governor has his council, which is chosen every year by the entire community by election or prolongation of term. In the inheritance they place all the children in one degi'ee, only the eldest son has an acknowledge- ment for his seniority of birth. They have made stringent laws and ordinances upon the subject of fornication and adultery, which laws they maintain and enforce very strictly indeed, even among the tribes which live amongst them. They [the Eng- lish] speak very angrily, when they hear from the savages that we should live so barbarously in these respects, and without punishment. Their farms are not so good as ours, because they are more stony, and consequently not so suitable for the plough. They apportion their land according as each has means to contribute to the Eighteen Thous- and Guilders which they have promised to those who had sent them out ; whereby they have their freedom without rendering an account to any one ; only if the king should choose to send a Governor General they would be obliged to acknowledge him as sovereign chief. The maize seed which they do not require for their own use is delivered over to the Governor, at three guilders the bushel, who in his turn sends it in sloops to the North for the trade in skins among the savages ; they reckon one bushel of maize against one pound of beaver's skin ; in the first place, a division is made, 118 according to what each has contributed, and they are credited for the amount in the account of what each has to contribute yearly towards the reduction of his obligation. Then with the remainder they purchase what next they require, and which the Governor takes care to provide every year. They have better means of living than ourselves, be- cause they have the fish so abundant before their doors. There are also many birds, such as geese, herons, and cranes, and other small-legged birds which are in great abundance there in the winter. The tribes in their neighborhood have all the same customs as already above described, only they are better conducted than ours, because the English give them the example of better ordinances and a better life ; and who, also to a certain degree, give them laws, by means of the respect they from the very first have established amongst them. The savages [there] practice their youth in labor better than the savages round about us ; the young girls in sowing maize, the young men in hunting ; they teach them to endure privation in the field in a sin- gular manner, to wit: when there is a youth who begins to approach manhood, he is taken by his father, uncle, or nearest friend and is conducted bhndfolded into a wilderness, in order that he may not know the way, and is left there by night or otherwise, with a bow and arrows, and a hatchet and a knife. He must support himself there a whole winter, with what the scanty earth furnishes at this season, and by hunting. Towards the spring they come again, and fetch him out of it, take him home and feed him up again until 119 May. He must then go out again every morning with the person who is ordered to take him in hand ; he must go into the forest to seek wild herbs and roots which they know to be the most poisonous and bitter ; these they bruise in water and press the juice out of them, which he must drink and im- mediately have ready such herbs as will preserve him from death or vomiting ; and if he cannot retain it, he must repeat the dose until he can support it, and until his constitution becomes accustomed to it so that he can retain it. Then he comes home, and is brought by the men and women, all singing and dancing, before the Sackima ; and if he has been able to stand it all out well, and if he is fat and sleek, a wife is given to him. In that district thefe are no lions or bears, but there are the same kinds of other game, such as deers, hinds, beavers, otters, foxes, lynxes, seals, and fish, as in our district of country. The savages say that far in the interior, there are certain beasts of the size of oxen, having but one horn, which are very fierce. The Eng- lish have used great diligence in order to see them, but cannot succeed therein, although they have seen the flesh and hides of them which were brought to them by the savages. There are also very large elks there which the English have indeed seen. The lion skins which we sometimes see our savages wear, are not large, so that the animal itself must be small ; they are of a mouse grey color, short in the hair, and long in the claws. The bears are some of them large and some small ; but the largest are not as large as mo the middle-sized ones which come from Greenland. Their fur is long and black, and their claws large. The savages esteem the flesh and grease as a great dainty. Of the birds, there is a kind like starlings, which we call maize thieves, because they do so much damage to it. They fly in large flocks, so that they flatten the corn in any place where they light, just as if cattle had lain there. Sometimes we take them by surprise and fire amongst them with hail shot, imme- diately that we have made them rise, so that sixty, seventy, and eighty fall all at once, which is very pleasant to see. There are also very large turkeys living wild ; they have very long legs, and can run extraordinarily fast, so that we generally take savages with us when we go to hunt them for even when one has deprived them of the power of flying, they yet run so fast that we cannot catch them unless their legs are hit also. In the autumn and in the spring there come a great many geese, which are very good, [to eat] and easy to shoot, inasmuch as they congre- gate together in such large flocks. There are two kinds of partridges; the one sort are quite as small as quails, and the other like the ordinary kind here. There are also hares, but few in number, and not larger than a middle sized rabbit ; and they principally frequent where the land is rocky. This, sir, is what I have been able to communicate to you from memory, respecting New Netherland, and its neighborhood, in discharge of my bounden duty ; I beg that the same may be so favorably received by you, and I beg to recommend myself for such further 121 service as you may be pleased to command me in, wherever you may find me. In everything your faithful servant, IsAACK De Rasieres. Note to De Rasieres's Letter. The letter of De Rasieres describes the town of Plymouth, its defensive array, and the manner of procedure observed by the church, in attending public worship, with more minute- ness of detail, than is found in any of our early records or history. From the description of streets it is evi- dent, that in 1627, Main Street ran at right angles with Leyden Street, which it crossed, continuing South partly over the lot now occupied by Wm. R. Drew, and that of the late Wm. Davis, Esq., and thence in a circular direction till it joined Summer Street. The words running ' North towards the rivulet,' doubtless refer to the first brook, near the dwelling house of Mr. Ichabod Shaw. It seems probable also, that Main Street, from its junction on the north side with Leyden Street, took a northerly course, over the lot now owned and occupied by Josiah Robbins, Esq. The residence of Governor Bradford, was probably that now occupied by Mr. Thomas Loring, at the corner of Main and Leyden Streets, on the westerly side of said Main Street. This lot it is inferred was the homestead of Gov. Bradford, and it continued in possession of his descendants till the year 1695, when it was sold to John Murdock. The reader will not fail to observe in this letter, a reference to the high moral character of the Pilgrims, 11 122 and its influence on the natives, contrasted with the prevailing practices in the Dutch settlement, at the same time ; a tribute the more valuable coming from so impartial, intelligent and discriminating a source. Manoinet. — This village forms a part of Sandwich, in Barnstable County, and is situated on the north- £iUi^ westerly part of Buzzard's Bay, about six and one-half "^ miles by the road, distant from Scusset harbor, in a north-easterly direction, and is thus described by the late Samuel Davis, Esq., of Plymouth. Manomet Bay is but a mile across, from a part of the Wareham shore, to Manomet River, on the back shore of Sand- wich. That rivulet was visited by Gov. Bradford as early as 1622, to procure corn, and was the Pimese- poese of the natives. This compound phrase signifies, ' provision rivulet.' What a remarkable coincidence in the aboriginal name and the colonial voyage ! We do not assume this explanation without substantial and tenable grounds. The first part of the phrase, pime, is, in its uses, 'food,' 'provision;' the latter, 'little river.' There too it was, that a barque was built by the Plymouth Colonies, in 1627, and a trade opened with the Dutch at New Netherlands, (N.York.) It was, in fact, the Suez, while Plymouth was the Aleppo, of our ancestors. The traveller, therefore, as he passes on his way, may here make a pause, erect a pillar, and muse on the swift flight of ages, — ' How changeful and how brief!' The site of the old Colony trading house of the Pil- grims, has been satisfactorily ascertained, as will appear from the following statement. In a grant of land 123 made by the Colony to James Skiff, recorded, Book of Court Orders, Vol. 3, p. 84, — land is conveyed ' which was formerly the Company's, where they had a trading house.' By means of this document and some other grants adjacent, which were placed in the hands of John Batchelder, M.D., of Manomet village, he has been able, after minute and careful investigation, to establish with certainty, the fact above stated, and the following particulars are extracted from the account obligingly forwarded by him to the writer. The Old Colony Trading house stood on the south side of Manomet River, about one hundred and seven- ty rods from the Bridge, and about one and one-fourth miles from Agawan Point, at the mouth of said River, where it enters Buzzard's Bay. Its site is indicated by two remaining cellar holes, distinctly marked, so as to admit of measurement, and its dimensions were about twenty by forty feet. It stood one hundred yards from low water mark, and an excellent spring issues out near the water's edge, being the first that appears from the mouth of the river upward. The village was first settled by the English in 1685. — The spots occupied by the first buildings erected there are all well known, but no tradition exists, as to the trading house of the Colony ; it having been generally a matter of conjecture only, that some kind of de- fence was erected there against the Indians, though previous tx) the year 1685. The distance from the trading house to Sandwich village, is, by the road, about six and one-half miles, and an old cart-way is found of several rods, strongly marked and much worn. 124 near the site above described, of which no account carl be given by tradition or history, except on the supposi- tion that it was the travelled approach to this interest- ing spot of Pilgrim Commerce. The width of the river at the above point is about fifteen rods. Saga- more Hill^ probably the residence of Cawnacome, the Sachem visited by Gov. Bradford, is situated on the south side of the river, on a bank about seventy-five feet in height, which commands a fine view for several miles above and below the stream. Upon the summit of this hill a large shell heap is found, of considerable depth and extent, and others on its side and base. Tradition states that this hill was the residence of at least one Sagamore. Dr. Batchelder concludes, from careful investigations, that the river called by De Ka- sieres, Nassau, was the same that is now called the Weweantic, and that Frenchman's point, from which his letter to Gov. Bradford was dated, in 1627, of which there is no trace in our history known to the writer, except in Morton's New England Memorial, page 61, was that now called Agawam Point. The population of Manomet Village, so called, is now five hundred. The river still holds its claim to be called ' provision rivulet,' and in the summer season yields, in abund- ance, the bass, (two species) blue fish, scapaug, tautaug, beside five species of edible shell fish, — <■ oysters, quohogs, clams, winkles, and muscles. In the winter, besides the various kinds of shell fish, we have the trout, frost fish, and a rich, and, literally enough, an inexhaustible bed of eels. They form a continuous bed, occupying not only the bottom of the river, but nearly the whole extent of the marshes. 125 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PASSENGERS Who arrived at Plymouth in the Mayflower^ 180 f(??is burthen^ Dec, 21s^, 1620, — the Fortune of 55 ton%^ Nov. ^th, 1621, — the Ann, of 140 tons, and the Little James, of 44 tons, the last of July, or the beginning of August, 1623. The letter attached to each name indicates the ves- sel in which the passenger came, m stands for the Mayflower, — f for the Fortune, — a for the Ann and Little James. NAMES OF PASSENGERS. NAMES OF PASSENGERS. A A Edward Bangs M Mr. Isaac AUerton A Robert Bartlett M John Alden A Fear Brewster M John Allerton A Patience Brewster F John Adams A Mary Bucket A Anthony Annable A Edward Burcher B C M Mr. William Bradford M Mr. John Carver M Mr. William Brewster M Francis Cook M John Billington i\i James Chilton M Peter Brown M John Crackston M Richard Britterige M Richard Clarke F William Bassite F John Cannon F William Beale F William Coner F Edward Bompasse F Robert Cushman F Jonathan Brewster F Thomas Cushman F Clement Brigges A Thomas Clarke 11* 126 A Cuthbert Cuthbertson f A Christopher Conant a A D A M Edward Dotey F Stephen Deane a F Philip de La Noye A Anthony Dix a E M Francis Eaton a M Thomas English F A M Mr. Samuel Fuller M Edward Fuller M Moses Fletcher m F Thomas Flavell and soua F Widow Foord A John Faunce A Goodwife Flavell A Edmund Flood A Bridget Fuller G M John Goodman M Richard Gardiner H M John Rowland M Mr. Stephen Hopkins F Robert Hickes William Hilton Timothy Hatherly William Heard Margaret Hickes and her children William Hilton's wife and children Edward Holman John Jenny K Manasses Kempton Edward Leister Robert Long M Mr. Christopher Martin Mr. William Mullins Edmund Margeson Benet Morgan Thomas Morton Experience Mitchell George Morton Thomas Morton, Jr. N Austin Nicholas Ellen Newton 127 O A John Oldham M Degory Priest F William Palmer F William Pitt F Thomas Prence A Frances Palmer A Mr. Perce's two serv'ts A Joshua Pratt A Christian Penn R M Thomas Rogers M John Ridgdale A James Rand A Robert Rattliffe S M Capt. Miles Standish M George Soule F Moses Simonson F Hugh Statie F James Steward A Nicholas Snow A Alice Southworth A Francis Sprague A Barbary Standish M Edward Tilly M John Tilly M Thomas Tinker M John Turner F Wilham Tench A Thomas Tilden A Stephen Tracy W M Mr. Edward Win slow M Mr. William White M Mr. Richard Warren M Thomas Williams M Gilbert Winslow F John Winslow F William Wright A Ralph Wallen. Several names contained in the foregoing list, are differently spelt in modern times, namely: Bassite is now spelt Bassett; Bompasse, Bumpas, sometimes Bump ; Burcher is probably the same as Burchard, the name of an early settler in Connecticut; De La Noye, Delano ; Dotey is on our records called Dote, Dotey, 128 and now frequently written Doten ; Simonson, some- times written Symons, is now Simmons. This list is copied from the. allotment of lands, in 1823, found in the Old Colony Records, Vol. 1, pages 4 to 11 inclusive. CLOSIINPG REMARKS ON THE PILGRIMS. In preparing the foregoing pages for publication, the writer has earnestly sought to present a just and true account of the motives, character and conduct of the Pilgrims ; not, however, without a consciousness that the estimate formed of their claims to the venera- tion and gratitude of the present age, will, by many, be regarded as far exceeding the merits to which they are justly entitled. The cry of intolerance, persecution and injustice to- wards the natives, hastily assumed, and framed into serious charges against them, is often deemed sufficient to outweigh other considerations challenging in their behalf our unqualified admiration. It is not difficult to trace the origin of these charges to the same spirit and source which originally drove them into banishment, — which could not rest satisfied with this measure of punishment without the attempt to impugn their mo- tives, detract from their worth, and misrepresent their conduct. The fearless spirits, who at so early a period dared to array themselves in open opposition to the unjust assumptions, both of the hierarchy and throne of England, could not fail to incur their unrelenting hostility. 129 But whatever opinions may be entertained on these points, — whether the charges alleged rest upon any just grounds or not, — it will hardly be denied that the Pilgrims accomplished a vast work. While it would doubtless be unwise to claim for them an exemption from the common infirmities of our nature, the oppo- site extreme, which withholds a just recognition of their high achievements, is liable to far greater con- demnation. It may well deserve our attention, to consider what might have been the condition of our country at the present moment, had their perilous enterprise failed of success. Nearly ten years had elapsed after the land- ing at Plymouth, before any other colony, except the unsuccessful attempt of Weston, ventured to follow their example. Had their enterprise proved abortive, it appears reasonable to conclude that no similar purpose of colonization would have been renewed till many years had passed away, to soften the forbidding aspect of repeated failures, or to reconcile such a measure with the dictates of ordinary prudence, France, at quite an early period, had, with laudable enterprise, explored our northern and western bounda- ries, and conceived the purpose of establishing a con- nected chain of fortified posts, designed eventually to control the destiny of North America. Who may not discern,- in the etirly settlement of New England, the only effectual barrier to the execution of this magnifi- cent project of the French nation ? In point of fact, the contest for supremacy, between England and France, was long and earnest, and at one time it 130 became extremely doubtful which of these great rivals of empire would ultimately prevail, notwithstanding the superiority of colonial strength possessed by the former power. New England enterprise and courage at last determined this doubtful, but all-important ques- tion, and history, faithful to its trust, in recording the chivalrous reduction of Louisburg and other colonial achievements, will award the claims of justice, while it utters only the declarations of truth. The intrepid pioneers, therefore, by whose instrumen- tality the great question as to what nation of Europe should predominate in North America, justly deserve to be held in grateful remembrance on both sides of the Atlantic. Who does* not rejoice that the English tongue has become the universal language of more than twenty millions of people, and that our institu- tions, which received their germ from the best exam- ples of Europe, moulded and improved by the succes- sive application of sound principles, aiming to promote the general welfare, and grown into a wider expansion both of civil and religious liberty, are the invaluable, undisputed inheritance of our land. * ' By their fruits ye shall know them. Not by the graceful foliage which dallies with the summer's breeze ; — not by the flower which fades with the perfume which it scatters on the gale ; — but by the golden, perfect fruit, in which the mysterious life of the plant is garnered up ; — which the genial earth and kindling sun have ripened into the refreshment and food of man, and which, * Everett's remarks at Plymouth, Dec. 22, 1845, 131 even when it perishes, leaves behind it the germs of continued and multiplied existence.' Note. Without intending to justify intolerance in any form, whether of ancient or modern date, it may be remarked, that much of what is charged upon the Fathers as such, resulted from their exposure to the designs often manifested by their enemies at home and abroad, to overthrow both their civil and religious mstitutions, which it had cost them so much labor and hazard to establish, and which owed their final preservation to a wonderful prudence and persevering vigilance, defeating not only the purposes of fac- tion, but the assumptions of royal authority. The undue restriction of indi- vidual freedom seems to have been the incident rather than the aim of their policy. With respect to the charge of injustice towards the Indian race, we quote the remarks of James Otis to Gov. Barnard in 1767. ' The Indians had perfect confidence in our Fathers, and applied to them in all their difficulties. Nothing has been omitted which justice or humanity required. We ghry in their conduct ; we loast of it as unexampled.' This is not the place to discuss the question of the right of the aborigines to the entire soil of New England. It seems proper to state, however, that this right was recognized by the Pilgrims, and we are able to trace, on our re- cords, the book and page where every tract of land was duly conveyed by the Indians, according to the forms of law. If it be said that the consideration paid was merely nominal, it may be answered, that land, beyond the use, of mere hunting, was estimated very differently by the natives, who esteemed it of small value, except for that purpose, and the white man, who desired it for permanent cultivation. In reply to the superficial remarks sometimes made on this subject, the following is copied from the Address of the late Hon. John Quincy Adams, on the New England Confederacy. ' The whole terri- tory of New England was thus purchased, for valuable consideration, by the new comers, and the Indian title was extinguished by compact fulfilling the law of justice between man and man. The most eminent writer on the law of nations, of modem times, (Vattel) has paid a worthy tribute of respect to our Forefathers, for their rigid observance, in this respect, of the natural right of the indigenous natives of the country. It is from the example of the New England Puritans that he draws the preceptive rule, and he awards to them merited honor for having established it.' 132 DESCRIPTION OF PLYMOUTH. * They sounded the harbor, and found it fit for shipping, and marched into the land and found divers corn fields, and little running brooks, a place, as they supposed, fit for situation.' Morton. The foregoing pages have occupied so much space, that only a brief account of Plymouth, as it now is, can here be presented to the reader. Plymouth is situated in north latitude (at the Court House,) 41% 57/, 6". Longitude from Greenwich, 70% Its Indian name was Umpame, written Apaum, in the Colony Records, and still so called by the natives of Massapee. It was also called Patuxet. Bounds. The bounds of Plymouth were determined by the Colony Court, in the year 1640, of which the following is a description : ' It is enacted and concluded by the Court, that the bounds of Plymouth township shall extend southward to the bounds of Sandwich township ; and northward to a little brook, running from Stephen Tracy's to another little brook falling into Blackwater ; from the commons left to Duxbury, and the neighborhood there- about; and westward eight miles up into the land, from any part of the bay or sea ; always provided that the bounds shall extend so far up into the wood lands as to include the south meadows towards Agawam, lately discovered, and the convenient uplands there- about.' These bounds were quite extensive, comprising what Vle^- of the To^^'TL and Sari or of PlvmoutlL . 133 have since become Plympton, in 1707, Kingston, in 1726, and part of Wareham, with Carver, taken from Plympton, and a part of Halifax, in 1734, also taken from Plympton. It is about sixteen miles in extent, from north to south, and varies from four and a half to nine in width. Plymouth is built along the sea-shore, upon a mod- erate declivity descending from an extensive pine plain, about one fourth of a mile broad, and one and a half miles in length. Face and quality of the soil. The predominant growth of Ibrest trees is Finns tooda, designating a soil of third rate quality, which covers much the greater part of the township. A ridge of elevated pine hills commences at *' Hither Manomet,' (so called in the records) within its limits on the sea, and terminates at Wood's Hole, 27 miles, ranging north and south, through Sandwich, beyond which they assume a rocky and rugged form, near Falmouth. The most elevated height in this ridge is about four miles from the Town House in Plymouth, being three hundred and ninety-six feet in height, pre- senting an extensive and sublime prospect of ocean scenery. This elevated ridge separates the first precinct or village of Manomet Ponds from the second and third precincts. It is beautifully situated, commanding a fine view of the bay, and is surrounded by elevated heights, and preserves, perhaps to this day, in its * Further Manomet Point, as seen from Sandmch, is a bold feature in prospective, from every part of the Bay. 12 134 habits and character, as much of the sound principle and primitive simplicity of ancient times, as any part of our country. Geology. It is not a little curious that one loose rock on the shore of Plymouth Harbor should have become so famous as is that called the ' Pilgi-im Rock/ where there is not known in the township a single ledge, save those the fisherman reaches with his lead at va- rious points off the coast. All the rocks in place lie buried beneath an unknown thickness of sand, gi'avel, and clay of the Drift formation. This in many places is at least 200 feet thick, and is probably nowhere less than 40. The nearest ledges that appear are in Kings- ton, a mile or more over the line ; and they are of granite, intersected by narrow Trapdykes. So regular are some of these dykes, as exposed in the cutting of the Rail Road, that they were believed by many to be some ancient artificial structure. It is probable that this granitic formation extends further south beneath the drift, but from this point to Sandwich and round to the Cape, the writer is not aware that any ledge is met with. Spread over the country so extensively, the peculiari- ties of the Drift formation are perhaps nowhere better de- veloped than in this neighborhood. The broken surface of the little hills is the counterpart, on the large scale, of the chopped and troubled seas that break against their base. No deep seated action has stirred up the mass, and thrown the surface into the regular wave-like ridges of other regions. The power acting on the surface, that brought together and spread these loose 135 materials, has scooped out the hollows between the hills, and made a thousand deep depressions, now occupied by as many lakes and ponds. These, of every variety of form and size, lie scattered here and there, or grouped together in the pitch pine and scrubby oak woods. Little brooks, flowing clearly over their sandy beds, connect one with another, and then find their way to the sea-shore. The barrenness of this geological formation is a surety that the singular and romantic beauty it has given to the environs of Plymouth will not soon be impaired by the clearing of the country. Plymouth Harbor. The harbor is protected by a beach three miles in extent, about one mile from the wharves. This beach is much reduced from its original width by the inroads of the sea. It was originally well wooded, but notwithstanding the fines early imposed, to prevent depredation, the trees have all disappeared. Towards the northern part of it, within 60 or 70 years, there was a thick swamp covered with pine, cherry and other trees. It abounded also with beach plums and grapes. In 1764 two small breaches were made by the sea near this swamp, requiring £20 for repairs. Dec. 25, 1778, a severe storm greatly in- creased these breaches, and a hedge fence was made for its protection. In 1784 a heavy gale, with a high tide, carried off most of the trees. In 1785, the gen- eral court made a conditional grant of 500 pounds, but through inability the town could not comply with its conditions. In 1806, a township of land was granted, on condition that the town raise $5,000 for repairing the Beach. In 1812 a lottery was granted, 136 the proceeds of which, amounting to §16,000, were applied for repairs. Previous to the year 1806, more than §40,000 had been expended without any aid from Government. An appropriation made by the General Government^ in 1824 and 1825, of $43,566, which sum was judiciously expended under the direction of Lieut. Chase and Col. Totten, of the United States Engineer Department, has resulted in the preservation of this important barrier to the ocean, which otherwise must long since have been nearly destroyed. It still requires vigilant attention. The severe storm in April last, combined w4th the high course of tides — occurring at the same time — occasioned considerable injury near the southerly part of the beach. An appropriation of one thousand dollars, was made for repairs by the town, which it is hoped will ' strengthen the things that remain,' till the Government shall interpose to. render this barrier against the oc-ean entirely secure and permanent. The Gurnet, at the entrance of the harbor, contains about 27 acres of good land. Of the original gro\\i;h of wood nothing remains. It is the extreme point af Marshfield beach and distant from the main land about seven miles. A light house was erected by the then Province of Massachusetts, on this point, in 1768, costing .£660. 17s., which was consumed by fire on July 2d, 1801 ; and that now standing was erected by the United States in 1803. It has two lights, about 70 feet above the sea. Sayquish, an Indian name signifying clams, is a head land, connected with the Gurnet by a narrow 137 neck, and contains about 14 acres. Between the Gurnet and the western point of Saquish, the cove is formed, which was 'full of breakers,' from which the Shallop of the Pilgrims when driven by tempest, nar- rowly escaped destruction. At Stage Point, within this cove, Mr. William Paddy and Mr. John Hewes erected fishing stages about the year 1643, near which Bass were seined. Clark's Island, a little to the north of Sayquish, has already been described. Cow Yard. This place, from the arrival of the Mayflower to the present time, has served as a most convenient place of anchorage, between Beach Point and Clark's Island ; distant from town 1^ miles. The name arose from the fact that a cow whale was taken there in early times. Brown's Island is about one-half a mile N. by east of Beach Point. Though now under water, it was no doubt covered with trees, when the Pilgi'ims arrived, and was one of the ' two islands ' of the harbor, men- tioned in their first history. This is confirmed by the statements of elderly persons now living, Avho in their early days discovered the stumps of trees there. The Island being so near the anchorage ground of all strangers who visited New England for many years, the trees were perhaps soon converted into fire-wood, leaving it exposed to a rapid destruction from the violence of easterly storms. Its name was probably derived from Peter Brown, who came in the Mayflower, as there was no person then living in the colony so likely to give it that name. According to Gov. Win- throp, Oct. 6, 1635, two shallops were cast away upon 12* 138 ' Brown's Island,' near the Gurnet's nose, and the men on board were all drowned. Ponds. The number of ponds in Plymouth is esti- mated at 200, and the map of Plymouth, by S. Bourne, Esq., contains about 120 : a considerable portion of which would, in most other parts of our country, be de- signated as lakes. They cover, as is generally estimated, 3,000 acres in extent. The most attractive of these, are BilUngton tSea, already described. South Pond, four miles from town, abounding with white and red perch. Murdoch'' s Pond is a quarter of a mile west of the village. Half-way Pond is 10 miles southerly. White Island Pond is north-westerly of the last named, and covers about 600 acres. Great Herring Pond is 15 miles south, on the borders of Sandwich. Long Pond, 2 miles in length, 6 miles from town. Clam Pudding Pond is 7 miles south, on the Sandwich road. The general features and scenery of these lakes are picturesque and beautiful, affording the most agreeable resorts in summer, for fishing and other amusements. Hills. Pinnacle Hill is near South Pond. Sentry and Indian Hill are on the sea-shore of Manomet. Paukopunnaktick is the Indian name of a hill called Breakheart Hill by the early planters. It is 10 miles from town, on the formerly travelled Sandwich road. The name was appropriately applied at a period in our early history, when Governors and other officers of Government, travelled on foot from Cape Cod and back again, in the discharge of their arduous duties to the country. Monks Hill is a few miles from town, within the 139 bounds of Kingston. It rises 313 feet above the ocean, in the midst of a widely extended forest, and com- mands a fine view of the ocean and interior. It is called in the Old Colony Records, ' Monts Hill Chase,' a name supposed to have been applied to a hunt in England.* Mountain Hill is near goose point. Sparrovj^s Hill, 2 miles from town, derives its name from Richard Sparrow, who was an early settler and had land assigned him there. He moved to Eastham and died there about 1660. ' Steart's Hill,' so called by the first planters, is directly below the farm now owned by Mr. Barnabas Hedge, on the sea shore, and is supposed to have been named 'from Start's Point, a place near Plymouth in England.' The house of Gov. Prence stood a little south of that occupied by Mr. Hedge, and the place was called Plain Dealing, which name extended, it is believed, to Kingston line. It would seem desirable to revive this ancient name, of a place which was owned at different times by several distinguished men among the first planters. Brooks. These are five in number, on the north side of the town. Near the 3d brook dwelt Deacon Hirst, in 1640, who there established the first Tannery in Plymouth. Wellingsly Brook is half a mile south of the town, * The author of ' New England Wars,' whose youthful footsteps so often traversed the -woodland scenery of his native hills, has availed himself of this spot as the place of interview between a venerable Puritan, whose daughter had been taken captive by the Indians, and King Philip, the re- nowned warrior of Pokanoket. 140 where Secretary Morton dwelt, and justly claims his- torical interest, in connection with his valuable labors? in compiling the history of New England and our early church records, and recording the transactions of the commissioners of the United Colonies. Eel River, about 3 miles south-east of the town, was so named from the abundant supply of eels it affords. Near it, on both sides the river, was a garrison house during PhiUp's war. The house which stood near that now owned by the Rev. Mr. Whittemore, was occupied by William Clark, and on Sunday, the 12th of March, 1676, it was attacked by the Indians, and eleven persons were killed and several houses burnt. It is worthy of remark, that this was the only serious attack made on Plymouth by the Indians, though it had frequently been threatened during its early history. Elder Faunce resided on the road leading to Eel River Bridge, and his amiable character and great age attracted many distinguished visitors on their way to and from the Cape. Town Records. These were commenced in 1638, at which time no settlement had been made beyond the town limits — and the Old Colony Records con- tain most of the municipal regulations which were previously adopted. The first entry in the Town Re- cords relates to a division of cattle which had consider- ably increased from a single heifer, given in 1624, to begin a stock for the poor, by James Shirley. Mr. Shuiey was one of the Merchant Adventurers of Lon- don, an influential and devoted friend of the Colony, 141 as appears from his correspondence with Gov. Brad- ford. It would be gratifying to learn more of this early benefactor of Plymouth, than history yet affords. It is also desirable, that the recommendation of Judge Davis, in a note to the Memorial, should be executed by the town, in designating some sti-eet or square by his name in token of grateful remembrance. The records of the town are plainly \\Titten, and in a good state of preservation. The Old Colony Rail Road. The completion and opening of this Road occurred on the 8th of Nov., 1845, and it is now well patronised by the public. The distances from Boston, on the road, are as fol- lows : Dorchester, 4 miles ; Neponset, 5 1-2 ; Quincy, 8 ; N. Braintree, 10 ; S. Braintree, 11 ; S. Weymouth, 15 ; N. Abington, 18 ; Abington, 19 1-4 ; S. Abing- ton, 21 ; N. Hanson, 23 1-4 ; Hanson, 24 3-4 ; Hali- fax, 28 ; Plympton, 30 ; Kingston, 33 1-4 ; Plymouth, 37 1-2 miles. Hotels. The Samoset Hotel, erected by the Rail Road proprietors, occupies a most favorable situation, at the end of Court Street, directly opposite the depot. It commands a fine view of the harbor, bay, and sur- rounding highlands. In the rear, at a short distance, it has the attractions of hill and woodland scenery, affording agreeable and convenient walks. It is 50 by 80 feet, constructed in a handsome style of architec- ture, and of perfect finish in every part. The sleeping apartments are pleasantly situated, and well contrived and furnished in every respect to promote the comfort of visitors, 142 There are three other public houses, — one kept by- Mr. John Bradford, in Ley den Street, — another (the Mansion House,) by Mr. N. W. Perry, at the corner of Main and North Streets, — and the third by Mrs. Catherine Burgess, in the house belonging to the heirs of the late Joshua Thomas, Esq. Finances, &c. The whole amount of taxable Real Estate, May 1st, 1851, was $1,492,466; and of person- al Estate $1,096,000 ; total, $2,588,466. The amount of Town Tax in 1851 was $18,273.36, of which sum $7,000 were appropriated for the support of schools, and apportioned among 1337 children, from the age of 5 to 15 years, arranged in 16 school districts. Manufactures. The following statement is ex- tracted from the returns of the Marshal, dated June 1, 1850. Robbins Cordage Co., annual product 750 tons tarred cordage and manilla, valued at $160,000, 48 hands employed ; Plymouth Cordage Co., annual pro- duct 800 tons cordage, valued at $180,000, 70 hands employed ; Holmes & Barrows' Cordage Co., annual product 53 tons cordage, valued at $10,000, 11 hands employed ; Benj. Diman, cordage, lines and twine val- ued at $2,500, 3 hands employed ; Charles B. Irish, cordage, lines and twine valued at $3,800, 5 hands employed ; Robert Cowen, cordage, lines and twine valued at $4,250, 5 hands employed ; Plymouth Wool and Cotton Factory, duck valued at $80,000, 80 hands employed; Nathaniel Russell & Co.'s Iron Works, nails, plates, rods, &c., valued at $95,000, 50 hands em- ployed ; all other kinds of iron manufactures valued at 143 $56,000, 37 hands employed ; Boot and Shoe Manvfac- tories — S. Blake & Co., 120,000 pairs boots and shoes, value $85,000, 200 hands, male and female ; Dunham & Lamman, 21,600 pairs boots and shoes, value $25, 000, 30 hands, male and female ; Daniel J. Lane, 100, 000 pairs boots and shoes, value $60,000, 160 hands, male and female ; Benj. Bramhall, 1,000 pairs boots, value $2,500 ; John Washburn, stoves and tin ware valued at $6,000, 4 hands employed; Wm. R. Drew, stoves and tin ware valued at $8,000, 7 hands em- ployed. Fisheries. The number of vessels engaged in the cod fishery, the present year, is 45 ; tonnage 3,375. The freighting vessels, engaged in foreign commerce, owned by the citizens of Plymouth, to a considerable extent, are fitted out in Boston and New York. Census of Plymouth at Different Periods. In a work on New England, by Capt. John Smith, pub- lished in 1631, which may be found in the Massachu- setts Historical Collections, vol. 3, 3d series, he says, under date of 1624 ; ' In the plantation there is about one hundred and four score persons, some cattle, but many swine and poultry.' In 1629, when the colony charter was granted, the number of inhabitants men- tioned in that instrument was 300, and Smith, before quoted, when speaking of Gov. Winthrop's colony, in 1631, estimates the number in Plymouth at between fom* and five hundred persons. De Rasieres, in 1627, stated the number of houses at fifty. In 1701 a division of lands was made among 201 freeholders of Plymouth. Estimating their families at 144 6 each, the population would be 1,206, an estimate probably not far from the truth. In 1643, the males from 16 to 60 years of age, capable of bearing arms, were 146. One in the score was the rate of military service. In 1646, the Freemen and Townsmen (voters) were 79 ; 1670, 51 ; 1683, 5b ; 1689, 75. In 1764, including 77 colored persons and 48 Indians, the number of inhabitants was 2,225 ; 1776, 2,655 ; 1783, 2,380. According to the United States census in 1790, 2,995 ; 1800, 3,524; 1810, 4,228 ; 1820, 4,348 ; 1830, 4,758; 1840, 5,281. The population, as returned June 1, 1850, was 6,026. The number of dwelling houses, including those at Manomet ponds, is 877. Public Buildings. The Court House, standing in Court Square, (in early times called Framing Green,) was built in 1820, and is fitted up in the best manner, for accommodating the courts of law, and the public officers of the county ; having fire-proof apartments for the safe keeping of records. The jail and dwelling- house attached to it, were built about the same time. The first prison was erected in 1641, and was 22 feet by 16, two stories high, and stood near Prison Brook, in Summer Street, where the house lately owned by Nathaniel Russell, Esq., stands. The second jail stood in the same street, on the lot owned by Capt. Icha- bod Davie ; and the third where the Court House above described, stands. It is gi-atifying to remark, that though the size of these necessary instruments of terror to evil doers, has been successively enlarged, there seems to have been, for many years past, less occasion for their use. 145 The Town House is situated in Town Square. The Alms House, built of brick, is situated on Town Brook. Pilgrim Hall has been already described. Churches. There are two Congregational Societies in the village, — one at Monomet Ponds, one at Eel River ; one Episcopalian, one Baptist, one Universal- ist, and one Christian Society. Errata.— The date of the deaths of Rose Standish and Wm. Mnlh'ns, p. 12 , should read 1621 instead 1620— Edward Everett's Oration of Dec. 20, 1826, p. 26, should read Dec. 22nd, 1824— The age of Hon. John Howland, as named on p. 42, should read in the 95th instead of the 89th— The name of Wm. Croio^ on p. 42, should read Wm. Crowe— ThQ aggregate, 64,735, on p. 97, should read 64,835. Note.— The length of Leyden Street, as mentioned by De Easieres, in his letter, p. 116, is erroneous, the actual measurement being 385 yards . There seems also an error, p. 114, in the estimated width of the Sand Bank, or Beach, no part of which is even now so narrow as 20 paces. 13 APPENDIX. EARLY CORRESPONDENCE OF THE PILGRIMS. The following letters have been obtained, by special request, from the ven- erable Judge Mitchell, of Bridgewater, whose well known research has so greatly promoted the illustration of our early history. The early domestic correspondence between the Pilgrims is mostly lost, and for that reason alone to say nothing of the excellent spirit they manifest, these letters are highly interesting. The note of explanation, which follows the letters, was prepared by Judge Mitchell. Loving and kind Uncle — My hearty and kind salutation I do here desire to tender unto you, hoping and wishing your and 3'dur's well being both in soul and body. I shall here communicate unto you a !