UMASS/AMHERST #" 312DbbD12332Hafl A Trip mjW. D. SAYLE 0±r 19 2 1 : O? MAs„ ^£«St'* DATE DUE UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS LIBRARY F 2223 S3 CARD A Trip to The Land of Romance Have you gazed on naked grandeur where there's nothing else to gaze on. Set pieces and drop-curtain scenes galore. Big mountains heaved to heaven, which the blinding sunsets blazon. Black canyons where the rapids rip and roar? Have you camped upon the foothills, have you galloped o'er the ranges. Have you roamed the arid sun-lands through and through? Have you chummed up with the mesa? Do you know its moods and changes? Then listen to the Wild — it's calling you. Have you seen God in His splendors, heard the text that nature renders? ( You'll never hear it in the family pew.) The simple things, the true things, the silent men who do things — Then listen to the Wild — it's calling you. Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us; Let us journey to a lonely land I know. There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to guide us. And the Wild is calling, calling — let us go. Robert W Service. W. D. SAYLE 19 2 1 LiBRARY F ii. ivintitol, MASS. rpHIS book is lovingly dedicated to Joanne Chichester the sweetheart of my youth and the wise, faithful counsellor, and steadfast companion of our married life. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Boston Library Consortium IVIember Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/triptolandofroma1913sayl A Trip to The Land of Romance AS far back as I can remember I had made up my mind that before /\ going to Europe or Asia, I would first visit the places of interest X A. on this side of the world and notwithstanding my longing to visit the Isle of Man, the cradle of my ancestors, I have adhered strictly to the 'America First" idea. It has been my privilege to have visited every state and territory in the Union including Porto Rico and Alaska and also the greater part of Canada, Mexico, the West Indies, Cuba and the Canal Zone, but it was not until now that I had the offer of a trip to the interior of South America and I was not slow in taking advantage of this opportunity for a trip below the equator and a visit to our southern sister republics, the most of whom were at one time colonies of Spain. This was to be a trip of approximately ninety days duration during which time I would be lost as far as business was concerned, from all activities at home and at a time when a business man should be especially attuned to the changing conditions during and following the after adjust- ments of the great world war so that it was no small task to foresee and adjust matters in such a manner that the business in which I was interested could continue its harmonious course as well or better while I was away than it would if I remained at home. With this in mind I commenced early in December to adjust and plan for the future. I also read as much as possible regarding the countries I was to visit so that I would have some idea of the life which would be mine for the period of the trip. When Mrs. Sayle and I walked up the gang plank, we knew full well that all bridges were down and there would be no return until "page five THE LAND OF ROMANCE the schedule was finished, so with resignation and great expectations for the future, we entered the apartments which were to be our home for a considerable portion of the trip. The first period of the trip was taken on board the S. S. Aeolus, a fine ship belonging to the United States Shipping Board, and operated under the fleet flag of Munson & Co. It gave us much pride and satis- faction to know that we were privileged to sail under the Stars and Stripes and on the second voyage that this good ship had sailed since it had been reconstructed by the Shipping Board. The Aeolus was originally a German ship named the Grosser Kurfurst which, after being taken over by the United States when war was declared on Germany, was used as a transport. After the armistice, it was remodeled by American workmen and rechristened Aeolus. All visitors ashore, lines were cast off and the ship moved slowly and quietly away from the dock, while we abroad were waving Goodbye to those of our friends who could come to see us off. Before the ship had made much progress, a dense fog settled down on the harbor so that our Captain was compelled to anchor near the Statue of Liberty which could be seen as a misty illumination towering above its base, a guarantee of equal opportunity and a just conipensation for energies expended to all who seek these shores. It was not until early morning when the fog raised that we weighed our anchor and started for the open sea. Out thru Ambrose Channel, that gigantic ditch through which the deepest draft ships may enter New York Harbor without danger and which permits of protection in times of war so that no hostile craft may enter. We soon reached the open sea and much to our surprise took a course southeast instead of south, a course that brought us east of the Bermuda Islands and many miles outside of the West Indies almost as far east as the west coast of Africa. Straight as the crow flies, we traveled for eleven days before we passed the nose of the Lion, Cape St. Roque, the most eastern point of South America, then we began curving to the west sighting land for the first time since leaving New York and being close enough to distinguish the City of Peranbuco, Brazil. Eleven days, carefree, delightful, full of fun and quickly passed. Of course, we had rough weather at times with the usual quartering wind which lifted the tops off the meeting waves and sent them spatter- ing over the decks. Beautiful, moonlight, tropical nights almost as bright as day with phosphorescent lights playing on the waves and a great silver moon shining from a clear sky. On these nights, it was page six THE LAND OF ROMANCE Deck Games Neptune and his Retinue page seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE hard to leave the deck for rest in our cabins. Many refused to leave so they took their mattresses out on the hatch covers and there enjoyed the scene until they were overcome by sleep. Passing the Equator is a long time honored event and was not overlooked by passengers or crew, each section having a number of Neophytes who must according to custom be initiated into that great company of globe trotters and be properly introduced to Father Neptune, the ruler of the sea. Promptly on reaching the Equator, Father Neptune with his daughter and retinue consisting of a barber, guards, a doctor and other satellites came over the side of the ship and was welcomed by the Commander as the vessel crossed the line. After courtesies had been exchanged, the command of the vessel was turned over to Neptune who immediately called before him all persons who had not been accept- ed into the Order of the Grand High Chief of the Deep Blue Sea. After an impressive speech calling their attention to the dryness of the country which they had left and congratulating them on having good sense enough to leave while there was a plentiful supply elsewhere, he orders his Doctor to examine the candidates to ascertain if they are sound of wind and limb, free from rum or rheumatics, spavin, tick, hairlip, crusty, crabbed, lame, halt or blind, hardening of the arteries or tighten- ing of the purse strings "and if afflicted with none of these, then let the poor boob be shaved and trimmed in due and ancient form so that he may be in fit state to enter the realms of His Majesty, King Neptune." After this charge, the Doctor examined each candidate giving such prescriptions as were needed and after the candidate was carefully lathered and shaved by the barber, he was ceremoniously passed thru a perfectly thorough wetting. The performance is perfectly harmless and was entered into with a spirit of fun by all. Among the candidates were several young ladies who were "game to the core" and I am sure they enjoyed the perfor- mance as much as it was enjoyed by the audience. Each candidate was given a certificate or diploma as a record and identification. We who served as guards or in other capacities, envied the recipients. In fact I was waiting and hoping that the others would grab the Captain of the Guards and give him the full course. If this had happened, then a copy of his certificate could have been displayed here. Well, I guess Neptune would not permit any of his selected retinue to be disturbed so I must with permission show a copy of the certificate of a "good sport" who was always there when her name was called. page eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE Friend Charlie page nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE -™;^^i«;i5-;5~XiS ,ii^^v Rio de Janeiro from Hotel Plaza From Roof looking towards Pas d'Assucar page twelve THE LAND OF ROMANCE above. The uneven forest clad mountains forming a background reaching almost to the starry canopy above. We landed early the next morning and arranged for accomodations at the Palace Hotel, a fine place, well operated and beautifully located on the Avenida Rio Brancs about two-thirds the distance from the Zona dos Armazens to Praia da Lapa. This Avenida is a beautiful boulevard extending across the business section of the city from the inner harbor or anchorage to the outer or residential section of the harbor shore. It is paved with asphalt and has a park or safety zone down the center. Most peculiar and sometimes bewildering is the sidewalk pave- ment which is done in Mosaic, the designs being carried with black pieces in a background of white. The designs are sometimes very elaborate and pleasing while some of them are arranged in such a way as to confuse and as one looks ahead he sees the path either in waves, hollow in center or raised as the optical illusion appears. One design may be a set piece, the next a geometrical design while others may be a design to cause an optical illusion. Out along the bay shore, there is a wave design which gives you the impression that you are walking over an undulating surface and one really steps high in order to avoid stumbling. Crossing the Avenida at right angle east and west are the main streets of the city, containing the shops and business section. The streets are all well paved and clean and some of them such as the Rua Ouvidor, the sidewalks of which are laid with tile, are only open for foot passengers. The native Brazilian quite proudly says: "Nao diga que vin cidade conita sem ver o Rio primeiro." "Say not beautiful city until you have first seen Rio." And I quite agree with them as it is without doubt, one of the most beautiful cities in the world, beautiful as a city and beautiful in its setting of ocean, bay and towering verdure clad mountains. There are many surprisingly delightful trips which may be taken by automobile, others by cog railway and others by train so that two weeks in this beautiful section can be profitably passed without repeating. Our first day was spent in driving about the city and nearby parks. The Avenida Mangue with its quadruple row of Royal Palms lining the banks of a canal which was built many years ago to drain a portion of the city. This Avenida has now been extended across a filled-in section to the location of the new docks so that it must be at least two miles long, running west about a mile then turning at right angle to the north over the new filled-in section which was formerly a part of the bay. page thirteen THE LAND OF ROMANCE Jardin Botanique page fourteen THE LAND OF ROMANCE Praca da Republica is a large park located in the center of the city, well laid out with drives, paths and artistic lakes. Here are many beautiful birds and animals. Cutia, a crane like bird with feather crest which resembles a thistle — geese with long snake like necks that should bother them in an attempt to locate the head and if their sense of taste is distributed its entire length, a good morsel must have a lasting effect. The Pacca, a reddish brown animal like a tailless rat only much larger, hopping about like a rabbit. Trees in endless variety. Everywhere we see rustic bridges, log seats, fountains and numerous other objects all made from cement but so well made that it requires careful examination to detect the substitution. Who has not heard of the Botanical Gardens of Rio, Jardim Botanico with its century old bamboos and its Royal Palm Avenue extending from the entrance back to the very base of the towering mountains which form the background, a double row of Royal Palms, a century old towering to the sky.? As the fronds, a hundred and fifty feet above, swing in the gentle breeze, they seem like giant feather dusters, brushing the cobwebs from the sky. The royal palm is not native to Brazil; the original mother palm which one may see, having been brought from the West Indies by Dom Joao VI in 1808. The palms thrive better here than in any other part of the world and for that reason one may see their feathery tops sway- ing everywhere above the sky line. Quinta da Boa Vista, a magnificient park well located to the north of the business section and on an elevation which affords beautiful views over the city and bay. This site was formerly the estate of Dom Joao VI and the beautiful building which was formerly his residence, is now used as a National Museum. There are many other Parks and Gardens on the Avenidas bordering the bay and ocean, many of them ornamented with monuments to the memory of the great men of the country while others have beautifully sculptured allegorical groups. Adjacent to the Praia da Gloria is one of these groups which is indeed a remarkable work of art, being a repro- duction of a painting sculptured in white marble. These words are chiseled on its base "HOMENAGEM de ADRIANO RAMOS PINTO e IRMAO ao BRAZIL" The views overlooking the city, the surrounding hills, ocean and bay are entrancing and can never be viewed often enough to lose interest. It may not be amiss for me to give a short description of a few of the page fifteen THE LAND OF ROMANCE Fonte Pinto Ramos page sixteen THE LAND OF ROMANCE View of Pao de Assucar Avenida Beira Mar taken from Assucar page seventeen THE LAND OF ROMANCE many excursions which one may take any one of which is perhaps un- surpassed by any other view in the world. You may procure an automobile at a stipulated price for the trip or at the price of three milreis (forty eight cents at present rate of ex- change) per hour. A short drive down Avenida Rio Blanca passing on the way Theatro Municipal, Estatua Marechal Florino Peixoto and Placio Monroe, you enter the beautiful shore drive Avenida Beira Mar which follows the shore line for several miles passing on the way Mt. Gloria, the gardens of the Palacio da Presidente and many monu- ments, hospitals and institutions of local and national interest. You soon arrive at the Praca Do Exposicao De 1908. The exposition buildings are not now in use and therefore, are not in good repair. Here you dismiss your chauffeur and ascend a few steps to the surface station of the Aerial Ropeway which reaches by two flights the top of Pao d' Assucar or Sugar Loaf, twelve hundred feet above the sea which incessantly thunders at its base. You enter the car in waiting and start on an aerial trip, swaying slightly in the gentle breeze but quiet and pleasing as you gaze down on the receeding landscape. Urea, the mid-station is soon reached and after a short walk, you enter the car which is to take you sailing over the forests a thousand feet below. To the left is the bay and to the right is the restless ocean. Down to the left is a small neck of land on which may be seen the first Portuguese settlement of Rio de Janeiro (River of January) founded by Estacio de Sa in the year 1565 and so called because he supposed that the great stretch of water was the mouth of a mighty river instead of a mountain enclosed arm of the ocean. On the day of our visit this ride was indeed a real "trip to the clouds" for as soon as we reached the station at the top, a cloud brushed its featherly dampness above and below, blotting out all views which we were so thoroughly enjoying but the clouds soon passed and we were again permitted to feast our eyes on the beauties displayed below. Assucar is a bare uplift of rock which has withstood the ravages of the past and will undoubtedly, remain for all time as a loaf of insoluble sugar. Perhaps your interest may be centered in the old Aqueduct and a cup of tea at the International Hotel, a summer resort resting on a cliff, half way up the montainside, therefore, you enter an electric car at the Largo do Carioca, one block to the rear of the Avenida Hotel. The Largo do Carioca is a fair sized reservoir and the city terminal page eighteen THE LAND OF ROMANCE Aqueducto crossing Valley Aqueducto near the highest spring page nineteen THE LAND OF ROMANCE of the old Aq deduct, it being fitted with many faucets from which in olden times the people of the city drew their water supply. This part of the old water system while still in use, yet is now more of a monument than a utility. Here you enter electric cars and start the climb from the city up above the business section. Skirting the side of Mt. de Sto. Antonio you soon pass out onto the old Aqueduct now a viaduct which crosses the valley between Sto. Antonio and Curvello. This old Aqueduct is a wonderful feat of engineering due to the fact that it was built in the eighteenth century. It was used to carry the water across the valley and into the city and is the most interesting part of the old water system now intact. The top of the Aqueduct was constructed as a large trough with sides about four feet high so that it would appear that this trough was used as a reservoir or reserve supply for water during its use. The electric cars were built so that they may just pass thru the trough in which the water formerly flowed. Winding around Mt. do Curvello, the road ascends at easy grades up into the Santa Thereza Mountains following the path of the old waterway now named the Rua Aqueducto until it reaches the Hotel International which is perched high on a rocky cliff above the railway and may be reached by steps or by a lift electrically operated. The trip is a delightful one as you have many vistas of the moun- tains, the sides of which are covered with many shades of green inter- spersed with splotches of white Tanfa, yellow Ciprasta, purple Azalia and Bougan villa and with closer views of the Accatia with its grape like clusters of yellow flowers. Royal Poncianna, Poincetta. Roses and many other flowering shrubs and trees which grow luxuriantly and with a perfect riot of color. The view overlooking Silvestre and towering Corcovado beyond would be incomparable anywhere else but at Rio, the city of kaleido- scopic views. As you look across the valley at Corcovado, you may wish to enjoy the views permitted from its towering peak so the next day unable to resist the temptation of this trip, you take an automobile and drive out to the Estacao Inicial do Corcovado and there enter the spacious car of the cog railway which ascends steep grades on the trip to a point just below the summit of this towering peak. The roadway is cut thru a dense forest so that you are riding in a gorge of green. Beautiful butterflies flutter across the right-of-way or are wafted about by the air currents, among the towering trees on either side. Air plants cling to the branches of all trees and great vines and creepers hang in profusion. page twenty THE LAND OF ROMANCE View from Corcovado above the Clouds Chineza Yista Tijuca page twenty-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE You reach the summit by a flight of steps and here find a shelter house and a viewpoint built of concrete on the edge of the cliff which drops down a thousand feet and then slopes abruptly to Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, a fresh water lake just above the level of the ocean. On the day we were there, the clouds were low, many of them floating hundreds of feet down, spraying the forests with moisture and temporarily shutting out all views below. Above the clouds, the sun was shining and thru the clouds its light reached the sea and land below. Off to the east, Urea was almost continuously hidden while now and then the rocky point of Assucar would reach above the clouds and shine in the after- noon sunlight. Here you may stand and watch the sun sinking in the west, and before its golden ball has passed below the water horizon, you may turn to the left and watch the lights blinking at you from the city below as the dwellers prepare for the darkness which soon settles over the city. Just before the highest point of the railway is reached, you may stop at the Hotel Corcovado, Estacion Corcovado e Paineiras and walk out to the commencement of the old Aqueducto. This station is several hundred feet below the top of Corcovado and is near the highest spring from which water was taken and where the old Aqueducto started in its descent into the city. The trough is still in use carrying water down the mountainside in a swift flowing stream. The foliage is dense and the air is heavy with moisture. The old Aqueduct is moss grown and discolored with age. The trough in which the water flows is, however, clean and the water fresh and pure. If you have not seen enough, then visit Tijuca from the towering summit of which you may view the surrounding country with the horizon far beneath and faded into the distance beyond. This trip is made by automobile and an entire day should be given to it and a clear day should if possible, be selected. This day looks fine so we will start. We enter a high powered automobile as early as convenient as this is to be a real day of toil and sightseeing. Passing thru the city, we climb and twist up the mountain passing thru several villages before we reach the Cascatinha, a small stream of pure water which dashes down over the rocks making a very beautiful cascade. Again we climb zig zag up the mountain reaching Meza do Imperador where a beautiful view is had of Corcovado and other peaks to the south, not an open view but one framed in trees, shrubs and flowers. On up the mountain we climb soon reaching the Vista Chineza where a shelter has been built in imitation bamboo made of cement. Here are views to the south- page twenty-two THE LAND OF ROMANCE east and east of Urea, Asucar and Corcovado with the sea dashing and tumbling on the beaches far below. To the west and in the distance is the open Atlantic dotted with islands partially concealed by the fleecy clouds passing to the south. No matter where you turn, you may look upon forest clad moun- tains towering above the city, green and gold surmounting the kaleido- scope of clustering homes far below — the sea, dark green, brightened here and there and shading up to a dazzling white when it dashes and scatters foam on the sand beaches and rockbound coast below. You surely are satisfied with these wonderful views so we enter our automobile for the return down the opposite side of the mountain passing thru several villages and a place of unique nature called Furnas. Here is a great mass and tumble of giant rocks forming caves, temples and grottoes while dashing down from the mountain among these natural formations is a clear cool mountain stream. On down the mountain we glide and soon the broad Atlantic comes into view and we ride for several miles on an artificial shelf hewn from the mountain- side and from twenty-five to one hundred feet above the white capped sea and foam covered rocks below. Under the towering Gavea Rock, we pass along Avenidas Niemeyer, Gavea Leblou, Ipanema and Atlan- tica, all hugging the shore. We drive thru a tunnel and reach Avenida Beira Mar as the electric lights are shining marking the outline of the shore. A trip to Nictheroy, the capital of the state of Rio de Janeiro should be taken. The ferry starts from Pharoux at frequent intervals and it is a nice trip directly east across the bay. On the left as you pass out, you may see Villegaignou, a rock island on which the adventur- ous Frenchman Nicolas Durand de Villegaignou landed with a band of Hugenots during the year 1555. Here was held the first Protestant service in the new world, sixty -five years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock Nichteroy with a population of forty thousand is soon reached and you find a quiet pleasing town with well paved streets, handsome public buildings and pretty squares. At the landing you may take electric cars for a trip about the city or continue on thru and over the hills around sharp curves and along a shelf cut from the steep hillside to Bahia do Sao Francisco. At the end of the car line you reach a little park and bathing beach. Up on a hill above the bay, you may visit an old church of typical mission architecture. In front of the church on the edge of the cliff is a rocklike structure built of cement, called Gruta de Nossa Senhora de Lourdes. This artificial grotto is embellished page twenty-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE in the usual religious fashion, appealing to those of the Catholic faith who wish to be relieved of physical or mental ailments or who wish to render service to their loved ones. There are places where candles may be placed and burned and places where prayers may be said. While we were there, a dark skinned man of African type was industriously trying to keep a candle burning, which he had placed, but the wind was so strong that his efforts were wasted, so he finally gave it up and with a smile turned away, undoubtedly, with the hope that some friend would light it later and that its burning would bring the desired results. Back of the church was a bar where all kinds of drinks were served and just below the hill upon which the church. Grotto and bar were located was a small Praca Publico in which several gambling games were being run full blast and as usual lottery tickets were being sold by several industrious vendors. This appeared to be a fit location for a church but inasmuch as the church was built over four hundred years ago, it would be optimistic indeed to imagine that its influence on th^ surrounding territory would be felt in the near future. Beautiful views may be enjoyed across the bay thru openings in the hills and to the ocean beyond. There are many mountain trips such as are here briefly mentioned. Novo Friburgo, a Swiss colony, Therezopolis, both at an elevation of 3000 ft. with beautiful views and so many others that many days may be delightfully employed in journeys to them. If your time is limited I would suggest as a final excursion that you visit Petropolis the summer capitol, as there the Emperor had his summer home and estate and many diplomats and wealthy people have their places of retreat from the summer heat of the lowlands. You can secure accomodations on a fairly good train from the city over the Leopoldia Railway. After travelling several miles over the plain and then winding around and over the foothills of the Serra da Estrella, Praia Formosa is reached where engines are changed employ- ing the cog third rail from there up to Alto de Serra. The ascent is delightful, climbing steep grades, up into the mountains, the air getting cooler and the scenery as you wind about and ever up indescribable, luxuriant vegetation, trees, trailing vines, rocks and waterfalls with now and then a glimpse of the sea. At Alto de Serra, engines are again changed and the remainder of the journey is made in the regular railway manner. Petropolis was founded as an agricultural colony in 1845 by a band of several hundred German immigrants. Soon, however, on account of its delightful location and pure air it became the headquarters of page twenty-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE Dom Pedro page twenty-five THE LAND OF ROMANCE the Diplomatic Corps, the members of which selected this point as a retreat on account of yellow fever epidemics which were quite frequent in Rio up to the year 1903, at which time a plan for the reconstruction and rebuilding of the city and docks was adopted and put vigorously into effect by President Rodriques Alves. It was at Petropolis that Dom Pedro II, the last Emperor of Brazil, had his Crystal Palace and Garden which are now in disuse and it is here that the bronze mounument erected to a ruler whom all join in proclaiming a real man and Emperor, can be seen. Down the center of the main boulevard of this town runs a mountain stream confined within banks built of stone and cement, lined with stately trees, shrubs and trailing vines. Here also are the outlines of a great Cathedral started by the Queen but now in a semi-finished condition. During our visit to Petropolis we lunched at a restaurant operated by a German named Max Meyer who told us of his experience during the Anti-Teutonic riots in Brazil and showed us photographs of his furniture and fixtures dumped into the canal, but notwithstanding his misfortune, he is starting again with such of the articles as he was able to gather from the wreckage. His good Frau presided over the kitchen and served us with good palatable German cooked foods. When we considered Mr. and Mrs. Meyers many misfortunes, we were reminded of the old saying "Little minds are tamed and subdued by misfortune, but great minds rise above it." Rio, the Beautiful, is destined to be more beautiful as the years pass and the plans of the engineers are carried out, streets are being widened and hills are being razed and the earth used to fill in low places. Adjoining our hotel, so close that you could almost jump from the roof garden to the church of Sao Sebastiao, built during the years 1567 to 1583, is Morro Castello a hill, a historical landmark which is doomed and will soon be leveled and forgotten. Beautiful Rio de Jenerio, I join the lovers of the city in this com- mand. "Nao diga que vin cidade conita sem ver o Rio primeiro." After an early breakfast, we made ready to leave beautiful Rio de Janeiro taking a special car on the Estranda de Ferro Central do Brazil for our trip inland to Sao Paulo. Our accommodations were very good, an open space with large comfortable wicker chairs and two compartments similarly equipped. This railway is owned and operated by the Brazilian Government and we received every attention and very courteous treatment. The cars of this railway were clean, page twenty-six THE LAND OF ROMANCE Some of the Party who made the Trip page twenty-seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE the seats were generally equipped with fresh wicker cushions and the train was drawn by an American built locomotive. Starting out from the station, we traveled along the valley with interesting views of homes on either side, the sides of the right of way in the city being walled from eight to ten feet high yet permitting views from the car windows of pleasing gardens while the unsightly views of back yards and dumps so familiar to us at home, were not in evidence. Soon we reached the Cordilleras Mendas which appeared to be a great tumble of beautiful rounded hills covered with green and appear- ing to the eye as excellent grazing land. The scenery is much like California excepting that there are no sunburned spots. We climbed around and up among the hills soon entering the first of the eleven tunnels which we passed thru before we entered the valley of the Rio Parahila. The views were enchanting, every shade of green dotted here and there with Nanca and the many varieties of Tanfa in full bloom glowing white, yellow, pink or purple in the bright sunlight. Beautiful plumaged birds fluttered away at the approach of the train. Quite near on either side are the higher peaks covered with fleecy clouds. Manytimes one sees a foamy cascade or Cascatinha tumbling down the mountain side framed and often partially concealed by the green verdure of the slopes. Very interesting are the homes of the Cope, built from three to four feet high and baked so hard by the heat of the sun that they look not unlike boulders scattered over a pasture field. The Cope is an antlike insect and probably just as much of a nuisance. We travelled up the valley of the Rio Parahila with towering cloud covered peaks on either side, rice fields covered the lowlands and coffee plantations with their well arranged rows of dark green trees or shrubs dotted the foothills. The sun was sinking behind the western moun- tains leaving gold and blue tints; purple mists gather in the hills, cool breezes drop down from the heights above and we finished a journey of about twelve hours as comfortably as could be expected anywhere in midsummer heat. This trip, the first for us in Brazil, was exceedingly interesting, Great horned oxen pulled the crude two wheeled carts loaded with wood, stone or bags of coffee, wheels of the solid type and much to our surprise equipped with very narrow treads. The great horned brutes were yoked humanely and in teams of two, four or six. The teamster seldom rides and can he seen trudging along beside the team, his great bare feet splattering in the mud. At the stations you see the Brazillian fully clothed in vest and coat sweltering in the heat as it would be quite page twenty-eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE Sao Paulo from Hotel page twenty-nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE improper for him to appear in public without being fully equipped with both coat and vest. Sao Paulo is the Capitol of the state of Sao Paulo and is the most important city in Brazil in manufacturing and merchandising and only second to Rio de Janeriro in population. It is a thriving city of five hundred thousand and while not as clean as Rio yet it would compare favorably with the ordinary city of its size anywhere. The streets in the older parts of the business sections of the city are very narrow and usually can only accomodate a single car track, should there be one with a double track, then the passengers get on and off right at the curb. Automobiles in this town were chiefly of American manufacture and notwithstanding the narrow streets were used quite extensively and were privileged to pass on either side of the street cars, in fact, they were run where and as fast as the driver wished. A ride about the city is of unusual interest. There is the mansion of the Governor of the State of Sao Paulo, a large, plain building sur- rounded by spacious grounds, the particular attraction being the large Mangieva trees which outline the front of the lawn. These trees are at least one hundred and twenty-five feet high with a great spread of foliage at the top. The Municipal Opera House is a beautiful struc- ture, well located and facing a narrow valley which has been beautified with monuments, shrubs and trees. Out in the newer or residential sections, are several beautiful streets, Avenida Angeles sharing honors with the Avenida Paulisto. Beautiful homes line these Avenues on both sides and the Avenues are tbe promen- ades for the rich people of the city. Avenida Paulista being the newer was entitled to be called the better of the two as it was able to display newer and more modern homes. It is at least one hundred and twenty- feet wide and over one and one half miles long. The cement walks on either side are about twenty feet wide and are blocked off in designs with now and then a Mosaic. The street is paved with asphalt with double street car tracks down the center having an eight foot devil strip between. This Avenida runs along the brow of a ridge so that on one side between the homes or down cross streets, beautiful views could be obtained of the lowlands towards the river and the mountains far beyond. On this side is located the public gardens sloping from the street down into the lowlands. , On our way to the Country Club, we turned off down into the lowlands and were surprised to see great flocks of Uroba Birds which are not unlike our Buzzards of the south and which are protected for similar reasons. page thirty THE LAND OF ROMANCE Snake Farm Attendant handling Snakes page thirty-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE A visit to the snake farm is of interest as this is the only institution of its kind in the world. Here all kinds of snakes are collected, the venomous in one compound and the harmless in another. There are many species of poisonous snakes in Brazil, the more deadly ones being in the north. There is the rattlesnake of the north which secretes an extremely deadly poison and the rattlesnake of the south which is about as dangerous as our rattlesnake of Florida. There are also seven species of the Lacheis, a very dangerous enemy because it gives no warning when about to strike. The Orotu is extremely poisonous but its size, seven to ten feet, makes it easily detected. The poison is extracted from the poison glands by attendants at the laboratory. After the desired snake has been taken from the snake house an attendant at the opportune moment grabs the snake with his bare hands, the left hand at the neck and the right hand about two- thirds down the body. The neck is held firmly by the fingers of the left hand while the thumb presses against the rear of the skull, the pressure forces the mouth open and when the pressure is increased, the fangs are forced into position, at which time a small bowl is placed so as to receive the poison when exuded. The poison is then prepared by filteration, drying out, crystalization, mixing with glycerine and then mixing with poison of snakes of another specie. Then a horse is in- oculated and the anti-toxin taken from the horse, placed in vials and sent to all parts of the republic for relief of the unfortunates, thereby displacing completely the antidote known to our writers of western fiction. Slaughtering of beef should soon be a great industry in Sao Paulo as Armor and Co. have just invested eight million dollars in buildings and equipment and had started butchering hogs the day we departed. Wilson & Co. have been established in Sao Paulo for several years and were able to reap the profits pertaining to the successfully operated meat industry for several years past and therefore, are well fortified to withstand the bad business conditions which now prevail. The meat is not of the best American grade yet the shippers take every precaution to insure safe and sanitary transport as it is shipped from here in refrigerator cars at 28" F. and should it arrive in Santos, the port of over seas shipment, prior to the arrival of a ship, it is immedi- ately placed in storage warehouses where the low temperature is main- tained. We were surprised to see many oxen with humps on their fore shoulders and supposed that the hump was caused by the yoke with which they are harnessed to pull the heavy loads; but were more sur- page thirty-two THE LAND OF ROMANCE Public Square Santos page thirty-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE prised when we learned that these oxen were descendants of the Sacred Bulls of India which were imported at great cost and much diplomacy from India for interbreeding with the native stock. The present results point to a successful experiment and the breeders expect within five or six years, to establish a strain which will be able to stand the climate and at the same time give a dressed weight of within ten percent of our western stock. The cattlemen are also experimenting in raising corn and up to date have been very successful as the frosts necessary to ripen the corn are quite frequent in Sao Paulo and the mountains about. The greatest difficulty the cattlemen have to overcome is the labor problem as the native workmen are lazy, shiftless fellows, who will work fiercely for a few hours and then lay off until their wage is gone either to the Government lottery or in one of the many private gambling houses. As far as living is concerned, they have only to scratch the soil to get enough to satisfy their needs and they want no more. Sao Paulo we found to be a great shopping center and here many presents were purchased for our friends at home. After a stop of three days, all arrangements having been made, we boarded the private car of President Arthur Owen of the Sao Paulo Railway or as it is sometimes called Sao Paulo & Santos Railway, and started down the mountains to Santos on the sea. On account of the very courteous treatment accorded us by President Owen, we were not only privileged to ride in his private car but were given a permit to ride in front of the engine down the rope incline from Alta de Serra to Piassaguera on the plains below. Starting out from Sao Paulo under our own power, we travelled in and around the hills enjoying views that are beyond description. Many of the knolls were completely covered with Manaca trees in full bloom of pinkish purple and white flowers on the same tree, presenting to the eye, a great bank of purple flame spotted with white. The flower is very similar to our northern dogwood, in fact, the white blossoms could be quite excusably so mistaken. We were unable to go to these groves but were informed that the perfume from the flower was very sweet and pleasing. At Alta de Serra, we changed engines taking on one which had a cable grip underneath and could also operate under its own power. Five of us took seats in front of the engine to view the scenery on the trip down to the sea level, over a bit of railway engineering which has no equal in the world. Down we went, held back by the great wire cable. On either side and in front of us were the most entrancing views. Now page thirty-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE a great bank of Manaca bloom with clouds scudding across the top. We round a curve and a beautiful green valley opens to our view only to be obscured by a white cloud which follows the wind currents while on the other side we look up the green mountain side up to the clouds which covers the top. An hour in this wonderland and we reached Piassaguera where we again changed engines and returning to our car, proceeded to Santos under our own power. We were told that this railway was built under a joint agreement with the Brazilan Government and is the most expensively built rail- way in the world and that many intricate engineering problems were solved before it was completed. The road bed is of very solid con- struction and the right of way is a mass of intricate watersheds and conduits often extending far up the mountain side to take care of the especially heavy rainfall of the mountains. The cableway passes thru at least ten tunnels and over many viaductos. The railway from Sao Paulo to Santos is only forty-five miles long and drops two thousand five hundred feet in that distance, almost the entire drop being taken care of by the cableway. The traffic must be heavy as all the goods to Sao Paulo and all the coffee from the state of Sao Paulo which produces one half of the coffee of the world, must be transported over this line. The rate of fare is very reasonable as we were charged only $100.00 per person which sum in our money at the present rate of exchange amounted to $1.20. An extra charge was made for checked baggage which brought the charge up to $1.56 per person, which we considered very reasonable and in fact, could not see how it would be possible on such a rate to pay expenses. At Santos, we were met by the Agents of the Parque Balneario where we were to spend two nights. This hotel is admirably situated on the harbor facing the open sea and had it not been for the mosquitoes which infested the hotel in swarms, fighting each other for a chance to get at us, we would have had a delightful time. They were so closely parked on our bed netting that the circulation of air was impeded and the more crafty ones crawled under the beds and bored up thru the mattress. Under these conditions, darkness brought on a fight for existence only to be relieved by the rising sun. Near the hotel was a Cinema and small theater both of which are operated to bring patrons who purchase refreshments but more espec- ially for the gambling in the Casino where many games are in progress the entire night. The beach is low lying not unlike our beach at Daytona, Florida and is used by automobiles at low tides. The breakers looked so invit- page thirty-five THE LAND OF ROMANCE Loading Coffee at Santos rusr^e^ Bathers at Santos page thirty-six THE LAND OF ROMANCE ing, several of our party decided to take a dip in the southern sea but we found the water so warm that it lacked the invigorating snap that comes with a bath at Atlantic City in the summer or Florida in the winter. We were privileged to meet Mr. Lawrence, the American Consul and Mr. C. E. Demerest, the President of The American Chamber of Commerce, fine gentlemen both, courteous and efficient. They were of great help to our party in getting the official red tape unwound in order that our entry into Argentine might be successfully accomplished. Mr. Demerest stated that the Custom House, storage houses and docks were crowded with American goods not yet passed and that the banks at Sao Paulo held millions of dollars of Bills of Exchange which the consignees have refused to accept. Some of the consignees have already received their goods and now refuse to pay or to accept the drafts issued against them, saying that they would pay when the exchange rate returned to normal again. The more conscientious, however, delivered their Bills of Lading to the banks which held their drafts for acceptance and refused to take the goods prior to an agreement with the shipper as to terms and basis of exchange. He stated that there were four hundred automobiles which were about to be sold for freight and demurrage. It is a sad state of affairs and has as usual two sides. The local side being that the Americans held up the execution of orders to take advantage of more profitable business at home and then dumped the goods on them as soon as the slump came last Fall in the States. In the meantime, the rate of exchange had dropped from about 3 $500 to 6 $500 for a dollar which quite doubled the price of the goods to them and made it impossible for them to recoup the loss in the resale. The Americans on their behalf claim that their southern customers had duplicated and oftimes triplicated their orders on account of the demand and uncertainty of shipment, hoping to cancel when enough had been shipped to fill their requirements, and now squeal when they are caught in their own game. Regarding the rate of exchange, no one could control the price and the customer should have used ordinary business precaution and protected himself. Thus the arguments go pro and con, the goods however, are there and the situation is being used by merchants and propagandists of other countries to the detriment of the Americans. During a conversation with a business man pertaining to general affairs, he stated that the state of Sao Paulo gathered in a normal crop nine and one-half millions of bags of coffee weighing one hundred and twenty pounds per bag or a total crop of five hundred and seventy page thirty-seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE thousand tons of coffee valued normally at about 6 cents per pound. It was his opinion that business would be bad until the United States commenced buying coffee again. Confirming our experience, he stated that the whole country was struggling under a load of graft, business and official and he made the startling statement that Brazil was in natural resources, the most favored country in the world and were it not for the official graft, Brazil could pay off her national debt easily in fifteen years. There are many delightful car rides in and about Santos, one of which is a trip along the ocean and bay to a little village named Sao Cerente, far out in the suburbs on an arm of the sea. It was here January 1532, that the first real settlement by the Portuguese was made in South America. The docks are fine and while there is uptodate loading machinery for handling coffee, yet in dull season, you may yet see the husky natives struggling under the heavy bags as they run over the planks from dock to ship. The sewerage of the town is taken care of in large open cement trenches which are at low tides, flushed out to the ocean by floods of mountain water held back by gates until ready for use. Santos is located on a flat plain but slightly above the sea and its harbor is the Santos River, At the entrance to the river is the re- mains of an old Portuguese Fort which was built several hundred years ago and only used now as a make believe fort. On Wednesday at 16:00 o'clock (4:00 P. M.) we boarded the Royal Mail Steamer Arlanza for the trip to Montevideo and Buenos Aires. The air and scenery leaving the harbor was very delightful as from our commanding position on the upper deck of the Arlanza, we could look over the house tops of the city and as the setting sun glowed misty purple in the west and the lights of the city began to twinkle into view, we bade Farewell to tropical Brazil and sailed southward toward more congenial temperatures. The Arlanza is an English ship which during the war was used as an armed Merchant Cruiser, being commissioned as such on April 24th, 1915, and entering into service on Northern Patrol only. She was damaged by a mine and was frozen in at Yukanskie and Kola Inlet from November 1915 to June 1916. After being repaired at Belfast, she was commissioned in the North Altantic convoy service where she remained until the armistice was signed. We enjoyed a very pleasant three day voyage, reaching Montevideo early in the morning and unfortunately we decided to continue on to page thirty-eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE Montevideo Plaza Indepencia page thirty-nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE Buenos Aires which gave us only about three hours to view the town, while a week might be spent with comfort and profit in this beautiful clean city with Rio de la Plate on one side and the Atlantica on the other. We landed at the Municipal Pier, a large open space well paved with docks on each side and one end. Here is the Customs House also the reclaiming and recreation departments of the City Government. The great open space being used as a recreation ground and on national holidays, here all of the festivities are staged. We soon entered automobiles for a ride about the city over Boule- vard Artegas named after a Uruguayan hero, Avenida 18th de Julio commemorating the date of the signing of the Proclamation of Independ- ence and Avenida 8th de October commemorating the date of the signing of the Constitution. These driveways are lined with trees all of which are about the same height giving a very uniform appearance. The trees are named Accer and look very much like our Sycamore, the leaves and bark being very much the same but I could not find the usual seed balls or button balls that we find at home. Plaza Libertad and Plaza Independencia are well laid out and in the center of the city connected by the Avenida 18th de Julio. On the drive out to the ocean front, we observed Promenade Wilson named after our own expresident. All of the drives are fine roadways, well paved and lined with artistic Spanish type of homes. Montevideo is the capital of Uruguay which is in years, the youngest Republic in South America and also the smallest in area. Since its formation, it has been a hot bed of insurrection and turbulence, so much so that up to the present time, hardly a single President has had an entirely peaceful term. Even now the Colorado (red) of Rivera and Blanco (white) of Oribe are the colors adopted by football teams rep- resenting political parties and I was informed that all other types of the game except socker were prohibited for fear of violence on account of closer personal contact. Even now squads of soldiers are stationed about the field when the Colorados and Blancos meet. Notwithstanding the long period of strife, the republic shows development to a remarkable degree. There are more inhabitants to the square mile and the main roads thru the country are better paved and improved than in any other country in South America. Sailing out of the harbor later in the day, we had a fine view of the Cerro (hill) overlooking the bay and after which the city is named. When Juan Diaz de Solis with his followers in the year 1515, approached the coast, he saw this hill and called out 'Monte video", (I see a moun- page forty THE LAND OF ROMANCE Plaza Hotel page forty-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE tain.) This expression has clung to the locality and named the city which was long afterward founded. On board ship again, we sailed northwest up into the muddy flow of Rio de la Plate and just at dusk we sighted the lights of Buenos Aires, the American Paris, against the glow in the western sky. Arriving at the Municipal Pier late in the evening, we expected to stay on the boat that night but being informed that our apartments at the Plaza were ready, we decided to occupy them at once, which unfortunately was a mistake as it caused us great inconvenience to pack our belongings and while we only carried our hand bags, it took us a long time to get thru customs and up to the Hotel. The Plaza Hotel is admirably located on Plaza San Martin and we found it to be well operated but woefully lacking in bathroom facilities, in fact the bathing facilities were so limited, that we decided next day to move to the Savoy Hotel where ample facilities were found for our entire party. Sunday, our first day in Buenos Aires should have been enjoyed as a day of rest but learning that the races were on for the afternoon, we quieted our consciences or those did who had any left and immediately after lunch, started for the Jockey Club race track as the races were to start at fourteen o'clock sharp and this would be our only opportunity to see the greatest race track in the world. It would be folly, indeed, for me to attempt to describe in detail the drive out there. Out the Avenida Alvear, an avenue two hundred and ten feet wide at the widest part with three roadways, the center one being used by fast moving automobiles and the two outside roadways by horse drawn vehicles. Out past Parque Alvear, the Recoleta, the Aqua Corrientes where all of the water used in the city is filtered and purified. The Jardin Infantel, the Parque 3rd de Febrero, the Jardin Zoologico and other small parks besides many well kept grass and flower islands in the center of the Avenida. Between the parks on both sides especially the side facing the river, are many palatial homes with private gardens in front competing for honor with the public gardens. At the point where the Avenida Sarmiento crosses, is located the most beautiful monument in the city, Monumento de Espana, perhaps eighty feet high, beautifully proportioned and carved from pure white marble while around the base are many bronze groups emblematical of the part which the people of Spain have taken in the development of the city. At this point, the name of the parkway is changed to Avenida de la Vertey but its beauty continues on to the Hippodrome and past. page forty-two THE LAND OF ROMANCE San Martin Monument, Plaza San Martin Lola Mora Fountain page forty-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE It was a mad rush to get there, each driver trying to pass those in front and all hoping to return to the city for another trip. What a wonderful sight as we entered the special grandstand next to the one used exclusively by the members of the Jockey Club, with tickets that permitted us to go into the paddock. Four large cement grandstands besides the one for the members of the Jockey Club, each one crowded with interested spectators and the space out in front liberally dotted with groups of excited enthusiasts. Mounting into the grandstand, we gazed out over a beautiful panorama of sport and garden. There are three tracks and the center oval was laid out into a number of gardens dotted with lakes, on the surface of whch were a great many large ducks and beautiful white swans. The pathways in the gardens were covered with a reddish brown gravel, very restful to the eye, which with the blue of the water and the dark green of the foliage made a very pleasing picture. As usual the lakes contained many islands connected with the shore by artistic cement bridges always of rustic design. We, of course, must try our luck at the betting booths which are located just at the rear of the grandstands. Tickets are sold at two pesos each and you may purchase as many as you like. As two pesos in our money was less than seventy cents, we were privileged to start without a very large loss in view. There are hundreds of booths, each one having a number correspond- ing to the number of a horse. Selecting the booth having the number of the horse which you wish to place your money on, you purchase your ticket on the horse to win (ganador) or for place (place.) Should you be lucky enough to win, then you must take your ticket to a correspond- ing cashier window and get your money, that is as much of it as you can. The cashier will always ask you how much your winnings are and should you have figured it less than the proper amount, you will receive that amount promptly, otherwise there will be an argument. Not knowing how to compute my first winnings, I solicited the help of a bystander who I afterward found out had figured them two dollars short either by mistake or with the intent to divide with the cashier. While he was figuring the amount, I noticed that he took several good looks at a board which was in plain view in front so after a little study, we got wise and afterwards always demanded more than we could get and after more or less waving of arms and a flow of "pidgeon English", com- promised on the proper amount knowing all the time we could get no more and then the cashier would hold out five or ten centavos knowing that we did not have the time nor the flow of language to get it all. page forty-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE Spanish French German page forty-five THE LAND OF ROMANCE The Jockey Club is licensed by the Government to operate and ten percent of the total betting receipts are withheld, one half being profit to the Club, the other one-half being turned over to the Govern- ment to be used for charitable purposes. It is commonly reported that the club is an exceedingly wealthy organization with so much money in its treasury that the Directors must find other means of spending it than on the club members so they come into the limelight often by making large donations for public benefit. The Club has a long waiting list who are willing to put up an initiation fee of fifteen hundred dollars gold. Our party was honored by the Intendente Municipal de la Capitol, Hon. Jose Luis Cantelo, who sent each of the ladies a large boquet and each of the gentlemen his card. He also gave us an audience and by his order the Teater Colon Municipal was opened for our inspection, all of which we appreciated very much. The gentlemen of our party were entertained by members of the American Club at their club house located on Calle Florida, opposite the Jockey Club, and were also invited to attend their regular weekly luncheon at the Plaza Hotel where we listened to a very able speech made by Dr. Naon, the former Argentine Minister at Washington, while the ladies were entertained by Mrs. W. K. Ackley at her summer home just outside the city. Buenos Aires is beautifully planned, the shopping district being bounded by Avenida Santa Fe on the north, Calle 25th de Mayo on the east, Avenida de Mayo on the south and Calle Callao on the west. This section has the Plaza San Martin, the Plaza de Mayo, the Plaza Rio Pena and the Plaza Congress, one in each corner with several smaller parks scattered within. It is about fifteen blocks square and is closely built up with buildings housing on the ground floor, stores which display every variety of articles attractive to the shopper which may be pur- chased at very reasonable prices. One must use judgment, however, in making purchases as the Argentino merchant is a shrewd dealer and you may read in the glitter of his eyes "Caveat emptor" so it would be wise to paste in your hat as a counter irritant "Caveat vendor" and look at it often, matching the wits of the buyer against those of the seller, before you conclude a bargain. This however, can be said to the credit of the merchants, they never misrepresented the quality of their goods. Florida is one of the best shopping streets and is noted not only for its stores but also for the fact that it is paved with asphalt and that there is no street car line on it. It is lined with many fine buildings, page forty-six THE LAND OF ROMANCE Washington Monument page forty-seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE the Jockey Club being the most noted. During the late afternoon, the street is thronged with pedestrians and during this time, no automobile or other vehicle is allowed thereon. The Avenida de Mayo, a very wide Avenue which connects the Plaza de Mayo on the east with the Plaza Congresso on the west, is laid out with broad sidewalks and the broad roadway has inlands in the center which divides it for east and west driving. Here are many hotels, the sidewalks being used in many places especially in front of the hotels as refreshment places, being covered with small tables where coffee and stronger liquids are served. This section is dear to the heart of the Frenchman as he is reminded of his own Capitol at home. The monuments of the city are artistic and beautiful, the newer ones being located in the Palermo district on either side of the Avenida Alvear. The Spanish monument, which has already been mentioned, is the center of the group of monuments erected by the foreign colonies, the French and German monuments dividing second honors and the Washington monument which was erected in 1910 by the then small American colony making a very creditable appearance. Just beyond these monuments is an extensive park system in the process of development. The Avenida de los Lagos is all laid out, graded but not paved. This Avenue skirts a series of small lakes on the opposite side of which is an extensive rose garden. Many of the bushes still retained their flowers altho the season was passed. Many of the parks and drives are planted with a tree called Jacaranda which shows large clusters of purple flowers in form not unlike the Acacia. One visiting the city for the first time, should not miss a trip thru the Recoletta Cemetery, the most noted in the city. It is filled with tombs, some of which are very elaborate and generally ornamented with artistic statuary. Underneath the tombs, in almost every case, is a large chamber where the body is placed in a lead sealed coflSn while above is an altar with the equipment of the Catholic faith. I was informed that a body must be buried or placed in a vault within twenty-four hours after death and for this reason, no elaborate funerals are held at the time of burial but on the first anniversary of the death, an elaborate memorial service is held and on each succeeding anniversary thereafter, until interest wanes. The altars are supplied with candles which are burned while the memorial service is being con- ducted. A trip up north into the river district to a place named Tigre, is not without interest. Here is located the Tigre Hotel and the Tigre page forty-eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE Monuments and Statuary in Public Parks page forty-nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE Recolleta page fifty THE LAND OF ROMANCE On Avenida Alvear page fifty-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE 3 Statuary on Avenida iVlvear Vendors of Sweets page fifty-two THE LAND OF ROMANCE JV- '<^ i ; «|bjj^i|«p'^-« j .' r. Monument Commemorating the Independence of Argentine Our party in Jardin Zoologico page fifty-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE Club, also many summer homes. I would not recommend the locality for residence purposes as it must be infested with mosquitoes. The Tigre Club is apparently the drawing card as there you may play any stakes. Sundays and holidays are the special occasions altho every night during the season, the club is crowded with gamesters. Most of the traveling here is done in boats and there are many handsome ones. Do not leave the city without a visit to the Jardin Botanical and especially a visit to Del Jardin Zoologico Municipal and while there meet the very sociable Directors, as they treated us royally. The Director of the Zoo gave us a trip all thru the park in small tramcars and presented each one with a photo of the party seated in the cars and the Director of the Jardin Botanical sent to the hotel for each lady a potted plant of a variety admired by the ladies while in the garden. The gentlemen of our party were liberally entertained by the pro- prietors of the cigarette factory in which the noted Cuarenta y tres (43), cigarette is manufactured. The President, two of the Directors and the Superintendent gave us much valuable time and showed us every detail of the process of manufacture of this noted smoke. After- wards, three cartons for each visitor, were sent to our hotel. It was in Buenos Aires that we all purchased as a novelty, Corbatas de Papel (neckties made of paper.) Our stay of ten days in this beautiful city was altogether too short as we were so royally entertained and viewed so many interesting public institutions, that we were loathe to leave. Everyone wished our stay could have been longer. Our thanks were expressed to our friends mentioned and also to Mr. L. A. Davis, formerly of Cleveland and T. L. McArtney, now residents of the city who were untiring in their efforts to make our stay as pleasant as possible. The best of friends must sometimes part and the time had arrived when we must pack up and take the train for our trip over the pampas of Argentina, thru the mighty Andes, the backbone of South America, and down to Chile, the Yankee Republic by the western sea, 888 miles away. After bidding our friends Goodbye, we boarded our special car on the Rapido Internacional early, leaving the Retire Station at 8:30 A. M. Shortly after leaving Buenos Aires, we found ourselves rushing over the mighty pampas, a great green and brown level plain stretching away to where it meets the sky on the horizon. The level monotony is broken here and there only by the clusters of trees around the building page fifty-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE Up in the Andes page fifty-five THE LAND OF ROMANCE The Rugged Andes Punte del Incas page fifty-six THE LAND OF ROMANCE of Estancias as we were passing thru a great cattle raising and wheat growing country. Many great flocks of ostriches attracted our attention and we were informed that they were permitted to run wild in the fields, only being rounded up in feather plucking time. About 300 miles out, we passed thru a large territory covered with lakes, on the surface of which floated millions of swans and ducks, while the shores were usually lined with cranes and flamingoes. The water did not appear to be deep and the lakes were undoubtedly, slight de- pressions to which the excess moisture from the surrounding territory drained. Long before one-half of our journey on this line was finished, we were fast asleep in our comfortable berths as we had to rise early to change from our broad gauge train to the narrow gauge Transandine Railway which was to carry us from Mendoza thru to Los Andes, a a daylight trip over and thru the mighty Andes. Rising early, we gazed ahead to see in the grey of the dawn far away, what looked like a mass of crumpled cones rising from the plain. These were the foothills of the Andes, that great barrier which separates nations and stretches for thousands of miles, forbidding passage to mankind, except by mighty effort; a barrier thru which men from the north, John and Matthew Clark bored a hole ten thousand feet above the sea. Mendoza, a town of perhaps 60,000 population, lies at the base of the foothills of the Andes. Its streets and public plazas are lined with trees, all artificially cared for by a perfect system of irrigation as the rainfall is practically nil and yet despite this, the whole territory for miles around is one huge vineyard, 24T0 feet above the sea, a garden in the center of a wilderness. Wine is the principal product, the vineyards producing 2,500,000 barrels of wine annually. We soon transfer to the narrow gauge of the Transandine train which was to take us over the Andes and after a very satisfying break- fast, settled down to view the wonders of this rocky way. Following the gorge of the Mendoza River in its tortuous course, we climbed up and up, clinging often to the mountain side and often making great curves to reduce the gradient of the way. Often ascending by cog, we plodded onward and upward reaching Punte del Inca where we stopped for a few minutes, giving the passengers time to view the natural bridge spanning the Rio de Las Cuevas whose course we followed almost to the summit of the Cordilleras. Off to the north, we saw the great white cone of Acongagua, the monarch of all, rising 23,300 feet above the sea. page fifty-seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE Method of Conveying Liquors Method of handling Paving Blocks page fifty-eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE We were here honored by the officials with a liberal display of the Stars and Stripes along side of the sky blue and white of Argentine. Leaving Punte del Inca, our train continued by cog up the Paramillo de los Horcones passing over the high level bridge that spans the Rio Horcones. This Paramillo is the moraine of an enormous and ancient glacier extending downward from the breast of the giant Aconcaqua which one may see up the valley of Rio Horcones. The train continued by cog up the narrow gorge of the Paramillo de las Cuevas until we reached Las Cuevas 10,400 feet above the sea. Here is where we left the old Camino de los Andes as here the old trail used for many centuries before the coming of the Spaniards, ascends to the Cumbre two thousand seven hundred feet above to where the statue of Christ in bronze stands on the summit of the pass, marking the boundary line between two nations and declaring forever eternal peace, Argentine and Chile having sculptured on the base of the statue these words, "Sooner shall these mountains crumble into dust than the people of Argentine and Chile break the peace which they have sworn to maintain at the feet of Christ the Redeemer." The tunnel thru which we passed is only ninety yards short of two miles long and we were in Chile at Caracoles. It has been stated that on account of the fierce storms on this side of the Andes, it has been necessary to build huge gates at the pacific openings that may be closed at such times; in summer to keep the oncoming train from being blown back into Argentine and in winter to keep the snow from drifting in and filling the tunnel. As to the truth of this I am unable to vouch but after seeing the conditions I could be easily persuaded that the statement was not an exaggeration. From Caracoles to Juncal, we passed thru what is perhaps the grandest rock scenery in the world. Great towering sharp pointed peaks, some of them white with snow, loom up with startling outline against the blue of the sky. Down we went, held back by the cog machin- ery, on the right we caught glimpses of the beautiful little Laga del Inca and soon we saw it plainly as a beautiful little lake resting in the lap of the desolate rocks and fed by the water from the melting snow- banks far up on the mountain sides. We then followed the Rio Aconcagua in its tumbling course to the sea, reaching Santa Rosa de Los Andes in time for late dinner. Here we changed cars to the broad gauge Chilian State Railway. It is a three and one-half hour run to Santiago and we branched off the main line at Llai-Llai reaching our destination on schedule time. We thought that the Chilian Railway trains were run with more pep than those of page fifty-nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE the other countries thru which we had passed as they appeared to be started quickly and made good speed between stations, giving efficient and uptodate service with maximum speed. Santiago is the Capitol of Chile and boasts of a population of over 400,000. We arrived late Thursday night. Unfortunately, our first day was Good Friday, which is a universal holiday, all business places being closed and in order to make the most of it, the banks and principal places of business were closed also on Saturday so we could get no Chilian money and had a hard time to scrape together enough to pay our regular tips. The principal sights of the town are the churches, Santa Lucia and Cerro San Cristobal. The churches are wonderful and the principal ones such as the Cathedral were, on account of the religious holiday, attended by hundreds of the faithful. Santa Lucia is a huge mass of rock, rising several hundred feet above the city with an architecturally beautiful entrance for pedestrians who may stop for refreshments at the restaurant part way up, or may continue on to the top. An automo- bile drive winds up at the rear ending at a large tiled open space about one hundred feet below the top, from which landing a foot path with many steep and narrow stairs leads to the summit. Near the top placed prominently on a great rock, is a bronze statue of Michimalonco Casique del Mapocho, who was condemned to a horrible death in the year 1540, by the gold crazed Spaniards. The subject stands in a crouching posi- tion stringing his bow. At the top, a beautiful view may be had over all points of the city and to the mountains beyond. To the west, can be seen San Cristobal with the statue Virgin del Cerro San Cristobal at the summit. The statue was placed there in order, it is said, to hold the mountain as the effects of great land slides are to be seen, one of which reaches apparently nearly to the base of the statue. The base, however, is well anchored to the solid rock and will undoubtedly fulfill its mission unless an earth- quake shakes it down. The monument is over one hundred and fifty feet high and in its base, which is seventy feet high, is a chapel where pilgrims may rest and pray away the fatigue of the climb of over nine hundred feet above the plain below. At night the statue is artificially illuminated by electric search lights, the light being reflected from the glazed surface of the statue, bringing it out clearly to the view. The darker the night, the better, as then the image stands out clear and bright with the appearance of being suspended in the air. page sixty THE LAND OF ROMANCE A roadway for automobiles and foot passengers zig-zags to the top where the views over the city to the west are unsurpassed. The city is filled with many small parks, not as well kept as those of Buenos Aires on account of the lack of rain as this is the dry season and rains do not commence until sometime in April which is the begin- ning of winter. The trees are covered with dust and must be artifici- ally irrigated. This is done by opening water mains at certain places and allowing a flood of water to run down along the curb. At each tree, there is an opening in the curb which permits the moisture to reach the roots. The principal Boulevard is Calle de los Delicas, running completely across the city ; is about three hundred feet wide with well paved roadways on each side and Parka Serrano running down the center. This park has many monuments, the best one being the one erected to the memory of the Irish Chileno Hero General O'Higgins. The bronze horse is standing on its hind legs ready to turn a back somersault while the General clings closely to its neck with sword aloft and with mouth open, apparently in the act of yelling the command, "Up and at 'em'" During the time we were in Santiago, many soap box orators were telling their hearers all about "it". I could not understand a word but enjoyed the orations as the language permits a very beautiful express- ion and sounded to me quite like poetry. The banners displayed in- dicated Labor Union and socialistic meetings. Down one side, a relig- ious procession with the usual images passed slowly between the throngs lining both sides of the roadway. Excepting where the meetings are being held a religious air prevails, the women are without hats having instead a black mantilla or veil over their hair. Everyone desires to see it all but does so in an orderly manner, dispersing when the pro- cession has passed. Pasted on the outer doors of the Catheral were orders forbidding any woman to enter with a hat on, yet compelling her to have her head covered. The head covering therefore, usually worn was a black lace veil or scarf and for that reason, practically all the women on the street wore this head dress. In Santiago, all of the street cars are double deckers, the price on the upper deck being one-half that of the lower. The cars are oper- ated by women who wear a very unbecoming costume consisting of a black straw slouch hat and long black skirt with white apron. We had a special car trip about the city and of course, we all rode on the upper deck. It was great fun for the youngsters along the way to see the Americanos riding up where only the very poor ride. page sixty-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE Vina del Mar Our friends on Andes Trip page sixty-tu'o THE LAND OF ROMANCE We visited the Cementerio General and viewed the usual Spanish method of burial and lavish display of monuments and tombs. Reading signs was one of the methods of passing the time between points of interest and it was often quite amusing to get them trans- lated and then learn how nearly we came to the correct meaning. One sign was Se Venden Huevos Friscos and inasmuch as it was painted on a one story building where cabinet work was being carried on, we decided that it meant "Wallpaper for sale". However, much to our amuse- ment, we learned that the correct translation was "Fresh Eggs for sale". Santiago is an old town having been founded in the year 1541, by Petro de Valdivia and did not make much headway until the Indepen- dence of Chile was declared in 1810 since which time it has made rapid progress. Leaving Santiago, we retraced our route to Llai-Llai and then from there down to Valparaiso by the sea. The country thru which we passed was very barren and the hillsides were covered with Organ Cactus. As a relief, we saw one very fertile valley where herds of cattle were up to their knees in luscious grass and here water was un- doubtedly plentiful. Passing Vina del Mar, we reached Valparaiso in the evening and were soon located in our rooms at the Royal Hotel and ready for dinner. Valparaiso has a population of about 200,000 people, founded by a Portuguese Captain, Bantiste Pastene, in the service of the Spanish Navy, on September 3rd, 1543, who named it Valle del Paraiso (Valley of Paradise) which in later years was contracted to the present name. The town is the commerical capitol of the Republic of Chile and lies on a filled in flat just above the sea backed by mountains rising to an elevation of 2000 feet. There is no room for expansion excepting the sides of the mountains. The three principal streets run parallel with the sea, the cross streets ending often at an Ascendor which carries the pedestrains to the top where they may perhaps get a street car or if not, then climb around or further up to their homes. From the top of any of these elevations, a beautiful view of the harbor may be had which while we were there, was as quiet and peace- ful as a mill pond. A large number of ships were anchored outside and between these ships and the shore were hundreds of anchored buoys to which lighters are moored while waiting for the cargo ships. Several former German ships were lying on the rocks along the shore having been driven there by an unusually fierce storm a short time ago. page sixty-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE Ascender Ox Cart for use in City page sixty-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE Valparaiso notwithstanding the lack of space, has a number of fairly good parks. The Parka de Brasil being now in the making is destined to be a fine place for both automobiles and pedestrians. In this park is located an arch surmounted by a lion, the President of Chile, on which is this inscription "A la Cindad de Valparaiso La Colonia Britanica". The effects of the earthquake which visited the city on the 27th of August, 1906 and of the fires immediately following, may yet be seen and we were led to believe that our hotel on account of the changes in levels of the floors, had passed thru that terrible visitation during which three thousand persons were killed, many more injured and a hundred thousand rendered homeless. Vina del Mar will in five or more years from now be the destination of a delightful automobile trip but now it is a rough dusty ride on a hot day and should it rain it would be a rough muddy ride. The engineers who planned the drive were courageous as in order to carry out their plans, the roadway must be biased from the side of the mountains and then cemented and walled up in order to protect the roadway from falling loose stones. Vina del Mar has many beautiful homes and the residents may take a train to and from the city. However, when the road is finished it will make a magnificient drive. There is a bathing beach but the bathers must be careful as the beach slopes abruptly into the sea. The usual race course is in evidence where racing is held on all holidays, Sundays and as many other days as the authorities will permit. Miramar located to the south can be reached conveniently and comfortably by tramcar along the rocky coast where there is a fair beach and plenty of bathers during the summer season. Our boat was lying two miles off shore at anchor waiting for the last lighter of freight to be placed on board and we were anxious to be abroad to start on the last lap of our journey sailing almost due north along the western coast of South America. Getting aboard our launches, we wind in and out among the hundreds of buoys which are anchored so closely together, one would think there was hardly room enough for the small boats to swing, as to these bouys the lighters are moored while waiting for the cargo ships. As we sailed out, we gazed back at the Valle del Paraiso which sits upon the shore of the grand Pacific. From the edge of its crescent shaped wave washed shore, the buildings of the town rise tier upon tier up the slopes of the hills, behind them are valleys and higher hills sweeping ever upward, and away into the foothills of the Andes. page sixty-five THE LAND OF ROMANCE As our ship weighed anchor, we heard the thunder of guns from the fort, firing a salute to a Chilean General who was on board reminding of the stirring times thru which the city has passed since Sir Francis Drake entered the bay aboard the Golden Hind on Dec. 4th, 1578, on a voyage of exploration for Queen Elizabeth and the many visits there- after by romantic buccaneers, pirates and sea rovers who made the Valle of Paradise their Mecca in quest of booty and beauty. As we sailed out our attention was called to the shipping board boats, Agylla and Boobyalla lying at anchor in the harbor. The Agylla had been there for seven months and the Boobyalla for two months both with full crews aboard. Mr. George Malcolm Gorapertz told me that he had made an offer to the shipping board for the purchase of the ship Agylla for one hundred thousand dollars cash but inasmuch as he could get no decision and that his opportunity for its use was passing, he had withdrawn the offer and made a new one for seventy-five thousand dollars cash, this offer being good for six days only and if not accepted within that time he would not purchase at any price. The wages of the crews average one hundred dollars American money per month which in addition to their board and the upkeep of the boat would soon "eat" up the value of the entire plant. Our first stop after leaving Valparaiso was at Coquimbo to take on board a gentleman and his family who were leaving the place on account of the hard times. He was Manager of a copper mine some distance back of the town and on account of the lack of orders had shut down the mine and was going back to the States to stay until the demand for copper increased. We did not go ashore at this point as the stop which was short was made very early in the morning. Our next stop was Antofagasta where we arrived at 10:00 A. M. so that as soon as breakfast was served, the boat was at anchor and we were at liberty to land at once. Antofagasta lies on the barren shore of a crescent shaped bay without any protection at all from the western storms. The landing procedure was rather difficult as we had to enter small boats from a landing stair let down from the side of the ship. It was rather dangerous because no matter how quiet the sea is, there is always a dead swell which moves the little boat up and down, making it necessary for one to watch his opportunity and step into the boat at just the right time. We all reached shore without mishap except a few wet feet and some splatters of saltwater. On landing, we entered automobiles in waiting and were driven page sixty-six THE LAND OF ROMANCE south along the barren shore to a Country Club located about five miles away. We were then taken back towards the city and up to the foot of the mountains to Quinta Casale, a summer garden, a beautiful restful place and as far as we could see it was the only bit of green outside of the public parks. A fine luncheon was served in regular Chilean style and we thought it would never end, expecting after five courses, the next would be coffee but the service of food continued until fifteen courses were served. Mr. Colver lost track of the time and after taking a little nap, ordered hard boiled eggs which is his regular breakfast food. The long service and the hard boiled eggs seemed to please the party so songs and dancing were indulged in between the courses making what is ordinarily only a time of eating, a time of enjoyment which was thoroughly entered into by all. After lunch we were driven back to the city and spent several hours looking thru the shops but purchased practically nothing as this is a town which makes nothing, depending for existence on the nitrate mines located in the interior. Antofagasta, which is an uninviting place, is said to house about thirty thousand people. The houses are low and shriveled looking, built mostly of wood. The streets in the city are well paved and fairly clean, the lack of grass, shrubs and trees, however, give it a desolate appearance and marks the beginning of a different atmosphere from that which we have already traversed. Water piped to the city from the Cordilleras ten thousand feet above the sea and one hundred and seventy-five miles away must of course, be conserved. Back of the city rise barren rocky hills about one thousand five hundred feet high with out a sign of life, dark brown like great ore piles that one may see in miniature on the docks at Cleveland or Fairport, O. The embarking is as exciting as the disembarking and a bit more dangerous. After a ride of about two miles thru a choppy sea, some of us felt the continued swing of the little boat and therefore, were a trifle upset, making our footing a little less secure. However, our party arrived without serious mishap altho several people got a good wetting and one lady slipped and fell into the sea up to her waist. Strong hands, however, brought her safely to the landing stairs. Safely on board, we gazed on the boats bobbing about and wondered at the skill of the boatmen in handling them. Jumping from boat to boat, the fletaros would clamber up the stairs like monkeys, bringing packages aboard or looking for packages or passengers to take ashore. We surely have passed the gardens of the east and south and have page sixty-seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE now entered the bleak and barren territory which extends north for a thousand miles, nothing to see but the barren, brown mountains rising in rugged peaks and bold headlands with their base washed by the salty sea. The lack of verdure had a depressing effect as even the so called deserts of our own Arizona are garden spots in comparison. We silently gazed on the desolation as our ship weighed anchor and pointed her nose northwards, relieved that we were all safely in our temporary home again and leaving such desolation behind. Mejiellones was our next stop where we were to take on several hundred tons of tin ore. This place has a well protected harbor and should have been a Government station but the men who had the politi- cal pull bought up the land at Antofagasta and convinced the Govern- ment that it was the port at which to erect a Government station, so Antofagasta has the protection and prestige of Government recognition and help while Mejiellones, a far more desirable spot was left to swelter in the dust of a great sandy valley which stretches inland for twenty miles with mountains on either side ending in bold headlands by the sea. The streets are wide but unpaved so the poor beasts which pull the loads must wade thru the hot dusty sand which permits the wheels of the cart to sink causing a continuous "uphill" pull. The buildings are tumble down affairs, built mostly of wood and sheet iron patched in places with rusty sheets of what were formerly tin cans. Very little attention is given to the roofs as rain is rare. It is said there are now grown up children in the town who have never experienced the effect of rain. Iquique, our next port of call, is second only to Antofagasta as a nitrate shipping port. Water is piped from the mountains a distance of one hundred and fifty miles and because the pipe is often exposed to the rays of the sun or lying in the hot sand barely covered, the water issues from the faucet at almost boiling point, however, it is water and makes it possible to have green in the parks and gardens. Iquique supports a population of fifty thousand as it is the port of entry for all of the supplies going into the nitrate district of Tarapaca. Soon after we left Iquique, we were surprised to see immense flocks of water birds flying all over the sea or hovering over and diving into schools of fishes. At one point we ran thru a great flock of birds covering the water for miles around, diving under at the approach of the ship only to be buffeted about by the breakers as they rose to the surface amidship. This was a wonderful sight which was repeated many times as we proceeded up the coast. We arrived at Arica late in the afternoon just as the birds were page sixty-eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE seeking their resting places on the bold headlands along the mountainous shore. Near Arica was an island which was completly covered by peli- cans the odor from which reminded the old timers of the chicken coops on the farm. Here on a bold headland just south of the city, is the rocky Morro where seventeen hundred Peruvians were driven into the sea. This massacre occured on June 7th, 1880 during the war between Chile and Peru. Arica is the seaport for the Tacna-Arica district now in dispute between Peru and Chile. These districts are agricultural only as they lie north of the nitrate fields. They are of no particular value to either country, and should be given to Bolivia thereby affording that great Inca country access to the sea. There is nothing of interest in the town and is only to be remem- bered by us as the last Chilean port at which we stopped and the termin- us of a highway built by the Incas a thousand years ago and named by the Spaniards, "Camino Real." It is still in use and llamas and burros are used to carry the loads to and from the sea. We have now sailed a thousand miles from Valparaiso north along Chile's barren rocky coast, the last two hundred miles being the provin- ces of Atacama, filched from Bolivia, as the spoils of the war of 1879- 1881 and Tarapaca, Tacna and Arica, taken from Peru. Much inter- national history is being made by this act of the victor in an unnecessary war as she took from other nations valuable lands and now governs people who are not in sympathy with her rule. The land thus acquired by Chile is known to contain the greatest nitrate deposits in the world for the export of which Chile collects annually in export taxes, the enormous sum of fifteen to twenty four millions of dollars. Notwithstanding this huge revenue, the finances of Chile are in a deplorable condition, her currency is based on national credit only and fluctuates extremely, generally holding on a low value. This, however, does not appear to disconcert the politicians and office holders, as only a short time ago, a report was circulated that Peru and Bolivia were about to attack. Mobilization was ordered on the northern boundries and when the soldiers arrived there, only one regiment had arms, yet the greater part of six million dollars, the cost, was sifted into the grafters' pockets. Regardless of the advice or command of the League of Nations, if such be given, Chile will never turn back to Peru or Bolivia, the lands which she took by force and should the wrong ever be recompensed, it will be by force or some turn in the destiny of nations as occured page sixty-nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE when Alsace and Lorraine were again taken under the protecting flag of La Belle France. This stand will be maintained notwithstanding the stipulation of the Treaty of Peace, signed in 1883, in which Tacna and Arica were held subject to a plevis cite of the residents of the district to be held in 1893. No vote has yet been taken and thirty-eight years have elapsed since the signing of the Peace Treaty. To fully understand the mental attitude of Chile, you must under- stand that the Chilean common people are a mixture of the Spaniards and Auracanian Indians. These Indians being reared in a temperate zone, are hardy and good fighters while the Peruvian and Bolivian common people are half-breeds from the Incas and subjected tribes with less inclination to fight but with greater susceptibility to educational in- fluences. Chile has a number of fairly good warships and will depend on these to uphold her claims when the time comes for their use. Chile is 3,000 miles long and from one hundred to three hundred miles wide. North of Valparaiso, very little rain falls and the coast is devoid of vegetation except at those points near the rivers which descend from the snow clad peaks of the Cordilleras, where the soil can be artifi- cially irrigated and made into gardens of great fertility. On south from Valparaiso, rains become more and more frequent until it is almost continuous in the extreme south. On board ship again, we soon left Chilean waters and entered those of Peru, stopping at Callao the harbor for Lima. Arriving early in the morning, we were soon released from quarantine by courteous officials and piloted to our anchorage by the harbor pilot. Taking a launch for shore, we landed at a commodious landing with stairs leading down to the water. Callao is a low lying city with no points of interest except- ing the long low point of land extending out from the shore ending in bold rocky headlands which protect the harbor and make anchorage safe and quiet. We did not linger long here but took the steam train for Lima eight miles inland, traveling up the south bank of the Rimac River which furnishes enough water to make this territory a veritable garden spot. All of the fields are enclosed with mud fences about four or more feet high and probably eighteen inches thick. Here we saw fields of cotton, which at that time were in full bloom, broom corn, with stalks at least ten feet high, banana orchards and many gardens with a great variety of vegetables all supplied with life giving water from the Rimac. page seventy THE LAND OF ROMANCE San Martin Monument Lima page seventy-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE Lima, while named The City of Kings, is a city of the past and rests on the debris brought down by the river ages ago. The streets are, with a few exceptions, poorly paved, with water worn rubble from the river and are all sadly in need of repair. On account of the absence of rain, the upper surface of everything is covered with dust and it is a wonder that the monuments may be seen at all as one would think that they would soon be completely enveloped unless the wind blows the dust away. Lima is quite an important town as here all the freight for a large interior is handled and from which copper and other valuable metals are shipped. We made our headquarters at the Hotel Maury, a fine old rambling structure covering more than a city block, always full of guests yet woefully lacking in bathing facilities. Entering automobiles, we were driven about the city first visiting the Plaza de Armas, which was laid out by Francisco Pizarro as the center of the city. On the southerly side is the historical Cathedral with double towers, both of which were covered with cloth as repairs were being made while we were there. History informs us that the murderer Pizarro laid the corner stone of the first Cathedral on this spot Jan. 18th, 1535. The first building was destroyed by an earthquake in 1746 and was immediately rebuilt on the same spot but with less magnificence than before. The view in the central nave looking towards the altar is wonderful as the pulpit and choir are a mass of artistic designs, carved in mahogany and cedar. The altar is of solid silver with many candelabras of the same metal, all artistic in design and finish. In the interior are many works of art and many old world artists have assisted in beautifying the walls with paintings and carvings in wood and ivory. One must visit the Chapel of the Virgin on the left as you enter for here under a glass case, rests the alleged mummified remains of the notorious Conquistador Pizarro. On leaving this temple erected to the Christian faith, it is customary to hand a coin to the attendant who conducts you around and if this be overlooked he will remind you with outstretched palm that a tip is expected. On the opposite side of this Plaza, is the Government Palace and the Municipal Building. Within the Plaza, is the usual band stand and exactly in the center is a bronze fountain probably the oldest in South America, as it was presented to the city in 1578. After jolting about the city viewing among other points of interest, the Plaza de la Inquisicion, with a large bronze statue to San Martin in the center, we proceeded to the Avenida 9th of December, formerly page seventy-two THE LAND OF ROMANCE called Passo Colon, a popular driveway one-half of a mile long and at least 175 feet wide beginning at the Plaza San Martin which is a circle in the center of which is a monument symbolizing the liberation of Peru. A marble shaft extends high above the base on which is a winged female figure representing Glory. General San Martin, the George Washington of South America, is represented proclaiming the independence of Peru. At the other end of the Avenida, is the Plaza Bolognesi, also a circle in the center of which is a monument in honor of Col. Bolognesi who fell at Arica in the war with Chile. The statue represents the hero sinking from a mortal wound yet still holding the flag of his country aloft. Around the base of the column on which the statue stands, are sculptured many allegorical scenes in marble. Midway in the Avenida and in the park which extends down the center, is a statue of Columbus, a copy of which is located at Cristobal in front of the Washington Hotel. He is represented as the Discoverer of America, which is personified by an Indian woman kneeling by his side. A trip thru the Zoological Garden is of interest as there are many cages of beasts and birds, the bird enclosure containing a pair of the famous Condors of the Andes. Judgment must be used while at the enclosure containing the Llamas as these burden bearers have a habit of showing contempt for strangers by blowing air thru their teeth often spraying their food for several feet about. The park covers about thirty acres and just at the entrance is a large and excellent restaurant maintained by the proprietors of the Maury Hotel. Here in commodious dining rooms or on airy verandas all of the delicacies of South America are served. Our party had luncheon on a wide airy veranda facing the garden. Lima, notwithstanding its proximity to the mountains is built on a level plain sloping gradually to the sea. About the suburbs are many hills rising abruptly from the plain and from the top of any one of these hills beautiful panoramic views of the city may be obtained. Before the coming of the Spaniards, the Sierra, that part lying between the parallel mountain ranges was held by Indians of the Inca tribe with center of control at Cuzco. Chiefs of that tribe had extended their control north and south along the heights for a distance of many miles extending from north of Quito, south beyond the Titicaca basin. They also held in subjection tribes of the Pacific, Littoral and Montana regions. Their commanding position and the use of Llamas on long journeys, enabled them to levy tribute of gold, silver and Sun Virgins, the precious metals being used as decorations in their temples and the female captives being assigned to the service of the national God. page seventy-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE Method of Landing at Mollendo page seventy-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE In the year 1527, the Inca Chief Huayua Coapac died and im- mediately a civil war broke out between the north and the south, Atahuallpa leading the northern warriors and Huascar leading the warriors of the south. The Spaniard Francisco Pizarro who had made an earlier visit to the Inca country but feared to attack the Indians, now believed his chance for murder and pillage had come and knowing full well the untold treasure in their temples, sailed from Panama in Jan- uary, 1531, and after long delays and much privation reached the Sierra in the vicinity of Cajamanca, to which place he had learned Atahuallpa had gone after many victories over his brother Huascar. On the way they were met by messengers bearing gifts and an invitation from the powerful ruler to visit him. The Spaniards reached the city on Nov. 15th, 1532, and found it deserted that better accom- modations might be furnished the distinguished guests. The next day accepting an invitation of Pizarro that he should dine with him, Atahuallpa with a large retinue unarmed came in royal state to the Plaza. Atahuallpa, the ruler of millions, carried on a litter made of pure gold, completely cushioned with the bright plumage of humming birds, was carried down the center of the Plaza toward Pizarro and his less than two hundred followers, most of whom were hidden behind shrubbery. In place of the courteous greeting which he had a right to expect ; he was met by a Priest, Father Valverde, who commanded him to accept the Christian faith and to swear allegiance to the Pope and the Spanish Emperor. Upon Atahuallpa's indignant rejection of this bold and insolent presumption, Valverde called upon Pizarro to make an assault. Guns boomed and the cavalry charged upon the defenseless throng. Instead of the hospitality proffered, there was a scene of terrible slaughter. Atahuallpa was pulled from his brightly colored carriage and im- mediately imprisoned. Fearing that he would be murdered, the fallen monarch told the Spaniards that he would give them great quantities of gold and silver for a ransom and on being asked how much he would give and how soon, he agreed to fill a room twenty-two feet long and seventeen feet wide up to a line about nine feet above the floor with gold jars, pots and vases, besides nuggets and other pieces not yet shaped for use. As for sliver, he agreed to fill the room full to the roof twice, undertaking to do this in two moons. The offer being accepted, runners were immediately dispatched with orders from their Chief to bring in the gold and silver from the homes and expecially from the Temple of the Sun. Atahuallpa carried out his contract to the letter, fifteen million page seventy-five THE LAND OF ROMANCE Lifting Steer by Horns Rocky Coast page seventy six THE LAND OF ROMANCE dollars in value of gold and silver was delivered and then the poor simple Inca Chieftain was murdered in the public Plaza not by an assassin but by "Orden de Conquistador." On the day of his execution, so Inca tradition runs, the top of Cotopaxi was blown off and left just at the snow line where it may now be seen. It is called the Inca Head because its outline bears a resemb- lance to the head that Atahuallpa bore so proudly. Many millions of gold and silver never reached the Spaniards as it was dumped into bottomless pits or as some historians think, into Lake Titicaca so as to remove the menace of the Spaniards lust for gold. Francisco Pizarro, the brutal conquestador, who lived by the sword was assassinated in the year 1541 by the followers of the son of Almagro an Ally and friend whom he had murdered. We were unfortunately delayed in leaving Lima on account of an unwilling passenger who had failed to have his passport vised and who was leaving Peru on the suggestion of those in power that his presence was not to their liking and should he remain, his arrest would be quite probable and then — Well, he decided to go — and our ship was not released by the Lima officials until he was safe on board and was sure to leave. Late in the afternoon, as we sailed out of the harbor, we could see the great fertile plain covered with many green fields stretching back with slight upward grade to the foothills of the Andes. A garden spot of many thousand acres watered by the melted snows of the ice clad Cordilleras. Mollendo, our next stop, is a small town located high on the rocks above the sea without the pretense of a harbor so that the swells from the ocean run straight into the mole, increasing in force until they dash on the rocks in a splatter of foam reaching far up the rocky cliff almost to the houses above. Standing on the deck of our ship we could hear the roar of the surf above the cries of the fletaros who clamored for the privilege of taking visitors ashore. We were landed from our boat in a chair operated by a steam whirley gig, a lady generally sitting in the chair with the men clinging on the out- side. One of our ladies, however, not to be outdone, took the outside ride. This method of landing is far more comfortable than the ordinary way of stepping from a bobbing boat to a slipery water soaked stair. Opposite our landing place, cattle were being loaded into barges to be taken out into the harbor to cattle boats. The cattle were handled in the same manner as the humans, slings however, being used which page seventy- seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE were broad and while not comfortable yet caused the poor brute no injury. We only saw one steer lifted by its horns which method was quite common until prohibited by law some years ago. Our next stop was Salaverry, a port of shipment having only a pier extending into deep water and a few, a hundred or more, dilapidated houses located on an absolutely barren sandy shore protected by a high rocky bluff which gives protection enough to make a fair inner harbor but not large enough for our ship to enter so we anchored outside. From our ship we could see the swells of the peaceful Pacific dash in fury at the base of the rocky headland. Here large quantities of raw sugar in bags of two hundred and twenty-five pounds, are transfer- ed by lighter to the ships anchored outside. We took on board two thousand tons. The sugar is made in the Chicama Valley, an hour by rail inland. Here is the Casa Grande, admitted to be the largest single producing plantation in the world because it is in operation every day in the year. This plantation is with others, located on the site of an old civilization older than the Incas. Up the shore can be seen the old city of Trajillo which was founded by Pizarro in 1535 near the ruined capitol of the Grand Chimu. No one was allowed to go ashore but the people on shore were allowed on the ship and the fletaros and fruit sellers jostled the passengers about the deck. Queer regulations, but inflexible because had we gone ashore, we would have been barred from entering an American Port. All of this territory is of great interest to the explorer for here it is that one may find the works of a civilization which was thriving while the people of Europe were yet living in caves. Walls built of granite rocks, some of which will weigh twenty tons or more and so carefully sized that no mortar was used to hold them in place. All of these great works were built before the Christian era and the so called Megalithie civilization which then existed, was destroyed or completely assimilated by the conquering Incas. The ancient Megalithie people made ornaments of gold and silver and used a mixture of copper and tin for their cutting tools, the sup- position being that they were able to temper or harden the bronze so that their edge tool could be used for cutting their food, wood and even rock. Up in the secluded valleys of the Andes where there was perpetual summer, they terraced the hills and even made artificial land to which water was conveyed in canals, some of which reflect great engineering ability. It was here that the potato was first cultivated and developed into an edible vegetable and from here spread over the entire world page seventy-eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE .A Loading Sugar Buying Hats Watching the Mail page seventy-nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE bringing untold more good to mankind than all the gold and silver stolen by the Spaniards from the graves, ruins and temples. Just north of Salaverry was the headquarters of the Chan Chan, one of the branches of the Megalithie people and in the Chicama Valley may now be found ruins and other evidence of a very advanced civiliza- tion. We remained at anchor one night and part of two days as it takes a long time to place 2,000 tons of freight aboard even with seven winches working. At sun set we were privileged to view a beautiful sight. The sinking sun was burning the clouds in the west, covering the sea with a purple vapor, while the sand hills up from the sea glowed a greenish gray. Every contour of the land was clear cut in silhouette against the view above, ending in the brown mountains far away while above all was a rainbow reflected from the mists gathering above the rocky peaks. Down in the harbor, the lights began to twinkle as the scene above slowly faded into the shadows. Running northwest from Salaverry, we passed Cape Parina, then heading into the north, we entered the path of the chase made by Sir Francis Drake when he captured the Spanish heavily laden treasure ship. Spain was sending ship after ship north laden with gold, silver and other precious metals when in the year 1579, Drake that pirate and adventurer of Great Britain, arrived on the western coast of South America, he having sailed from England with a squadron of five ships, four of which were lost or turned back before he reached the Pacific, leaving him with only one, the Pelican, a ship of one hundred tons which he as a good omen renamed, the Golden Hind. Putting in at Valparaiso he provisioned his ship from Spanish storehouses and then sailed bravely up the coast arriving at Callao on the 15th of February 1579. He soon learned of the sailing of a Spanish treasure ship and immediately with every inch of canvas set, gave chase. Sailing before a spanking breeze he sighted the slower Spanish ship off the coast at Cape San Francisco. "Ho! Ho! and a bottle of rum!", the unsuspecting prize was in plain view on the horizon. Suddenly the wind died and the ships rested on a quite sea with not wind enough to bulge the sails. Not to be daunted, the intrepid Drake ordered his boats out and his British seamen straining at the oars, moved his ship slowly but surely towards the prey. The Spaniards seeing the danger, had their boats out with sailors sweating at the oars but without hope as their ship was loaded to the water line with its precious burden. After three days and nights of page eighty THE LAND OF ROMANCE Panama Canal Lock Closing Gates behind our Ship page eighty-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE incessant toil, the persistent Drake reached the goal and the Spanish ship and treasure of three million pounds sterling were in his grasp. Don Francisco de Toledo, the Viceroy of Lima, after Drake's hurried departure from Callao, knew his intent as the signs are "facil de leer" and immediately he prepared to intercept the bold marauder at the Straight of Magellan, believing that Drake could only return to England by that route. Drake knowing full well what would be in store for him should he go back, sailed north along the North American coast hoping to find a passage thru America but gave it up as hopeless and after landing at a bay just north of the Golden Gate in California, now called Drakes Bay, he gave his ship a thorough overhauling and then turned its prow into the then unknown west. "With the fruits of Alladdins garden clustering thick in her hold, With rubies awash in her scuppers and her bilge ablaze with gold, A world in arms behind her to sever her heart from home. The Golden Hind drove onward, over the glittering foam." Drake arrived safely at his home port on September 26th, 1580 and was, for his daring feat, knighted by his Queen. Our next landing will be at Balboa, Canal Zone, the scene of the transhipment of the great treasures of the Incas. South America is of the past and we looked forward with great expectations for a view of the completed Panama Canal which many of us had visited during the period of its construction. Our dock was not reached until late in the evening and as we desired to sail thru that great artifical waterway, we could only spend a few hours after dark riding about the city of Panama. The old city of Panama was founded in the year 1519, by Pedro Arias de Avila, who was at that time, Governor of Spain's colony estab- lished sometime before on the Caribbean side of the Isthmus. The name Panama, which means fisherman in the Indian language was selected for the city because fishing at that time was the chief occupation of the Indians. The city grew in wealth and importance as it soon became the port of transhipment of the enormous wealth in gold, silver and precious stones which was poured into Spain as a result of the conquest of the great empire of the Incas and the spoliation of the temples and palaces of the rulers. In one hundred and fifty years, this settlement became the richest and most luxurious city in the then known world, a position that was relinquished only by its destruction at the hands of the roman- tic buccaneer. Sir Henry Morgan, in the year 1671. Two years afterwards, the present walled city of Panama was page eighty-two THE LAND OF ROMANCE Leaving Lock above Locomotive •fif!»«-i!lt.»3«i .^.^ One of many Warehouses page eighty-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE founded on the coral peninsula below Ancon Hill and about six miles from the old site. Since my first visit just eight years ago, there have been many changes. All the streets are now well paved, the main business streets have a car line and there has sprung up an air of importance which elevates Panama above the unclean, filthy, ill-governed place which was there when the Americans assumed control. There are a number of interesting places such as the old Cath- edral of the twelve apostles on the Plaza Independencia — the old Fort facing the sea — the ride around Ancon Hill and the well paved drives overlooking the city, on which are located many beautiful residences all with screen enclosed verandas, many being filled with orchids and other tropical plants — The palm lined drives thru the hospital grounds to the west side of the hill with fine views of Balboa and the harbor below. The famous flat Arch in the ruins of San Domingo Church which is said to be the longest flat arch in the world, built two centuries ago, stands as a monument to the architects and builders of those days and a convincing proof of the fallacy of the dire predictions and false pro- phecies of those who contended that the locks and heavy work of the Canal were in danger of destruction by earthquakes. Early the following morning, we were on our way passing thru the most wonderful artificial ditch in the world connecting the waters of the Pacific with the waters of the Caribbean Sea. This should be the Mecca of all Americans for here wonders are unfolded which are never to be forgotten. After passing the magnificient docks, we sailed north from Balboa and proceeded slowly along the Canal until we reached Miraflores locks where by a flight of two steps, we were raised two-thirds of the height of Gatun Lake and entered Miraflores Lake, a small natural lake in the western water shed of the Isthmus. Passing thru this lake, we entered the Pedro Maguel lock, a single flight which raised us to the level of the Culebra Cut which we entered.Sailing over the surface of water now where eight years ago some of us walked dry shod forty feet below, we soon entered the old channel of the Chagres River thru which we sailed until we reached Gatun Lake or in fact until we reached the Gatun Locks as the lake is only an enlargement of the Chagres River and the tributaries flowing into it. We were then approximately 85 feet above the ocean, passing thru tropical scenery, which is almost beyond description. The land is undulating with rounded knolls and hills. In many parts, the dense tropical vegetation has been cleared page eighty-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE s^^ Gates as I saw them in 1913 page eighty-five THE LAND OF ROMANCE off so that the hills look like excellent grazing land. Whether or not, this has been done for strategic reasons, it should prove profitable from an economic standpoint, as all of the cattle for use in the Canal Zone could be fattened there. An old saying is "Water never runs uphill", yet here we find salt water, water from the Pacific Ocean or the Caribbean Sea, eighty five feet above its former resting place. Carried up thru the locks to Gatun Lake, it has made the water of the greater part of the Canal quite as salty as the ocean. The Canal including the two lakes, forms a waterway fifty-one miles long running thru the center of what is known as the Canal Zone which is ten miles wide, five miles on either side of the center of the Canal. The United States paid the Panama Government which was a pro- visional affair by proclamation, seceding from Columbia in November, 1903, ten million dollars for the territory and agreed to pay two hundred and fifty thousand dollars per year, after ten years of occupation. The Zone covers an area of four hundred and forty eight square miles and is under the complete control of the United States Government, excepting only the cities of Panama and Colon, where only nominal control is recognized, excepting in times of disturbances, the United States reserves the right to maintain order and further to demand clean- liness within the confines of these cities. The United States further guarantees to maintain the independence of the Republic of Panama and the sovereignity of Panama over all her territory outside of the zone. The Locks of the Canal are marvels in concrete construction. There are six pairs of them, each lock being one thousand feet long, one hundred and ten feet wide and about seventy five feet in depth. Each lock is furnished with inner gates so that it is not necessary to use the full length of the lock for ships under five hundred feet in length. The Great Dam which impounds the waters forming Gatun Lake, is eight thousand feet long, two thousand one hundred feet wide at its base, four hundred feet wide at the water level and one hundred feet wide on its crest which is thirty feet above the mean lake level and one hundred and fifteen feet above the sea level. The dam contains twenty-two million one hundred thousand cubic yards of rock and earth. Gatun Lake covers an area of one hundred and sixty four square miles and contains at mean water level, two hundred and six billion cubic feet of water supplied from a water shed of one thousand three hundred and twenty square miles. At Colon, we found a city which had made wonderful strides during the last few years. The city is clean with well paved streets and has page eighty-six THE LAND OF ROMANCE Draying in the West Indies Picture taken in 1913 page eighty-seven THE LAND OF ROMANCE many shops where all sorts of trinkets may be purchased. We made our headquarters at the Washington Hotel which is located out on the shore of the bay or harbor formed by the breakwaters which our Govern- ment has built as a protection to the entrance to the Canal. This hotel is a delightful place and would make an ideal resort for a winter vacation. Connected with the hotel, are large spacious gardens and an immense swimming pool. The docks and storage houses at Balboa and Cristobal are the largest and finest I have ever seen outside of New York. All of the best loading and unloading machinery is installed there, thereby permit- ing the handling of transhipments at minimum expense. We sailed in the early evening, passing out into Lemon Bay, the harbor of which is protected by Toro breakwater and which commences at point Toro and extends northeast for a distance of over two miles. Another breakwater, tho much smaller, extends out from the Colon shore. These two breakwaters form a complete protection to this end of the Canal from the violent north winds which frequently visit this coast and also reduces to a minimum, the amount of silt washed into the Canal. It was quite dark as we passed out into the Carribean Sea. We were on the last part of our trip and no further landing was to be made until we reached New York. Sailing straight into the north, we passed thru the Windward Passage between Cuba and Haiti. Cuba, the El Dorado of the Bahamas, extends from Cape Maisi on the east, north west curving south eight hundred miles to Cape Antonio on the west. Its average width is less than sixty miles and no point on the island is more than forty miles from the sea. Cuba has many safe and commodious harbors, the one at Guanta- namo Bay being held by the United States as a Naval Station where our boys are trained in the arts of war. It has been said that Cuba is the sugar storehouse of the world as each year this little island turns out millions of tons of sugar, rivers of sugar flow out and rivers of gold flow in. Sugar is not the only wealth producer for Cuba as tobacco is grown there in great quantities and pure Havana tobacco is in demand the world over. Less than three million people on forty-five thousand square miles of fertile land with exports amounting to four hundred dollars per capita. It is little wonder that during the world war, millionaires sprang up in such numbers that they could not be accommodated in Havana so new territory was opened up to supply this ever growing class with page eighty-eight THE LAND OF ROMANCE This Shovel is 9 ft. above Canal Bottom 1913 Unfinished Approach to Lock 1913 page eighty-nine THE LAND OF ROMANCE residence sites suitable to their new dignity and obtainable at a price only within their resources. The islands of Cuba, Santo Domingo and Porto Rico show clearly the effects of good Government as compared with governments frequently destroyed by revolutions. Cuba and Porto Rico have long been free from the evils of revolutions while Santo Domingo which has long been under revolution's evil influence is now being compelled to be good and notwithstanding the propaganda of the outsiders or would be revolution- ists and our own social uplifters and yellow sheets, it is to be hoped that the beneficient grasp of Uncle Sam will not be relinquished. We arrived in New York on scheduled time and after landing and giving evidence of having no liquor in our baggage, we were quickly passed thru the Customs, thereby completing a trip which should be taken by every American citizen who is able to do so. Since my return I have been asked many times for my opinion of the countries in South America and in reply am pleased to record here the impressions received during my visit in Brazil and Argentine. Brazil is a great tropical country with a population of 27,000,000 covering 3,292,000 square miles including the water shed of the mighty Amazon and its tributaries as well as parts of other water sheds running to the east and to the south. There are immense deposits of iron ore which carries 68% iron, the richest ore deposits now known and extensive enough to supply the needs of the world for many years. There are immense areas of virgin forest lands as yet unexplored. Untold mineral deposits lie undeveloped. The rubber tree grows in the tropical low lying land and if necessary, it can be cultivated the same as the coffee tree is cultivated when the needs of the world demand such treatment. Coffee is produced in immense quantities and at least sixty per cent of the world's supply is furnished by Brazil. A normal years output is six hundred thousand tons, twelve pounds of coffee for each one of the population of the United States. In the south and west, large quantities of Matte, the South American Tea, is gathered, cured and exported to the amount of 76,000 tons. Sugar is also produced but not as extensively as before the slaves were freed. In the year 1915, Brazil took 32% of her imports from the United States and shipped 42% of her exports to the U. S. The government of Brazil is as progressive as any government can be and the people are law abiding and peaceful. No revolution has ever disturbed their peaceful progress unless the change overnight when Dom Pedro II left Brazil and a Republican form of government was adopted, could be called a revolution. page ninety THE LAND OF ROMANCE The Sentinel at Panama page ninety-one THE LAND OF ROMANCE On May 13th, 1883, by royal decree issued by Dona Isabel then Princess Regent, slaves to the number of one and one-half millions were made free. Brazil is now quite without racial prejudice, the former slaves having an equal opportunity with their former masters. The native Indians who have adopted civilization together with the African and the people of southwestern Europe, are slowly being amalgamated into a virile, strong minded race. There being no color line, the "will to do" is the yard stick which measures all alike. At the time of my visit, Brazilian currency as compared with the American dollar had depreciated fully 50% due to the fact that America was not then buying coffee from them on account of being overstocked and no coffee could be sold in Europe because Europe had no money to buy with. The Brazilian gentleman is a gentleman in every respect, at all times extremely courteous, in fact, some of their customs pertain more to the ballroom than to outdoor life. Brazil does not need coal, as water power everywhere is waiting for development so that electricity can be used for cooking or even for heating if necessary. Coal of a low grade, however, is found in the state of Rio Grande which after being crushed and compressed into brick- ettes, is quite extensively used. Argentine is a wonderful country covering an area of 1,153,119 square miles, mostly agriculturial, with no highlands except the foot- hills of the Andes. It presents over almost its entire area, a great level plain with rich soil from three to thirteen feet deep and needing no artificial fertilization excepting in Patagonia where the plains are of sand and gravel and require irrigation. Argentine is a rich country and is making rapid strides forward. It has a population of 9,000,000 one-fifth of which live in or near Buenos Aires. The Rio de la Plata, considered the entrance or front door to South America, is formed by the junction of the Parana and Uruguay Rivers which with their tributaries drain all of Northern Argentine, Western Uruguay, all of Paraguay and the southern portions of Bolivia and Brazil. The Argentines celebrate the 25th of May as the birthday of the Republic, as the beginning of the Republic was made on May 25th, 1810 by the citizens of Buenos Aires. For 85 years, the country was in a revolutionary condition, fighting among themselves and with others so that no real progress was made until about 25 years ago when the country really found itself and started on the road of progress. page ninety-tuo THE LAND OF ROMANCE Argentine raises great quantities of wheat, oats, corn, alfalfa, lin- seed and a considerable tonnage of sugar. Great herds of cattle may be seen everywhere dotting the broad pampas, fattening on the succu- lent guinea grass. The population of Argentine is made up of Spanish, Italian, Ger- man and French. In later years, however, many have come from Southeastern Europe. Labor unions are very arrogant and often assert themselves in such a way as to cause the government "to sit up and take notice." At such times, a firm attitude with a little shooting soon gets the disturbers back to earth and to as near normal("y as is possible. The continual catering to labor unions, however, gives the country a very insecure position and makes strikes and like coercive methods very common and much to the detriment of industrial progress. Here the Bol- shevist holds sway and is only restrained when he meets the government in open conflict. The people are courteous and gentlemenly but rather haughty and given to speak unkindly of those who do not meet their ideals. The money of Argentine had depreciated about 50% as compared with the TJ. S. dollar notwithstanding the fact that Argentine holds an immense gold reserve. Argentine's position in the world war was not of a high character, not caused by the voice of the people but by the action of the President who refused to put the vote of Congress into effect, a curious position, professing and proclaiming "Argentine for Humanity!" yet suffering insult after insult without action. The Argentine Minister at Washington was so chagrined over the dilatory tactics of the President that he resigned his office and returned to Buenos Aires and is now spoken of as a probable candidate for the Presidency. As between Brazil and Argentine, the balance would favor Brazil and in my opinion, Brazil will be the first to recover from the effects of the depression caused by the World War, The people of Brazil and Argentine should be among our best friends and I believe they know it is to their best interests to be friendly with their big sister of the North. The propagandist, however, is at work and does not hesitate to point to the depreciated exchange as an evi- dence of Yankee duplicity. "They depreciated your money which compels you to pay double price, we never did that nor would we do such a mean trick." The educated man knows better but can only see what has happened and is quite human in wishing to have the blame placed somewhere so without correcting evidence, the Yankee is blamed. The Englishman who should be our best friend, plays against us page ninety-three THE LAND OF ROMANCE openly, working every trick to discredit us. He never misses an oppor- tunity to state that America came into the war after the Germans were beaten and did no good and grows indignant when he reasons that the loan made by the United States to England should be cancelled at once without any payment whatsoever of interest or principal. He loses sight of the fact that England took the most of the German colonial empire as part payment for their expenses. He sees America as a formidable competitor and wishes to block progress in everyway possi- ble. England and the United States should be to each other "a biggest and best friend," The exporter from the United States, doing business with the south- ern republics, should study the people more closely either by residence or frequent trips and should use every endeavor to cultivate closer business relations, using care to ship the quantity specified on the orders and following closely all instructions as to boxing and marking. The manufacturers of the United States do not seek to dominate the South American export field by reason of the geographical or fi- nancial advantages which the United States enjoys. We only ask a fair opportunity to demonstrate on a competitive basis United States pro- ducts which are conceded to be the equal of, if not superior to, those manufactured in European and Asiatic countries. Besides, the United States affords a market for the products of her sister Republics of the south and we believe that from a reciprocal standpoint Americans generally would profit by adopting "America for Americans" as their slogan. page ninety-four THE LAND OF ROMANCE W. D. Sayle page ninety-five