UMASS/AMHERST 'g 31EDtibD0SaSflfil4 FIVE COLLEGE POSITORY LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLk::^GE No.___8__*iSB .397 H68 1848 SOURCE__ ed 4 O^'^^Sr^ i863 DATE DUE J UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS LIBRARY CARD PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION OP THE GRAPE VINE ON OPEN WALLS. TO WHICH IS ADDED A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF AN IMPROVED METHOD OF PLAJNTING AND MANAGING THE ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. By clement HOARE FOURTH AMERICAN EDITION. BOSTON : WILLIAM D. TICKNOR & COMPANY. MDCCC XLVIII. iKt 1837, by [LLIAM B. TiC'KNORj in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. PRINTED 6Y JOMN PUTNAM; 81 Comhill. TO THE MEMBERS OF THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF MASSACHUSETTS. Gentlemen, Permit me to dedicate to you a reprint of Hoare's Prac- tical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine on OPEN Walls. I am persuaded that a cursory perusal of it will indicate the causes of the general failure of our vines, and that a strict adherence to the severe discipline so clearly illustrated by the author, will restore the confidence of the horticulturists of Boston and its vicinity in the capacity of their climate to mature in the open air some of the best varieties of foreign- grapes. This Treatise has been submitted to the judgment of a distin- guished horticulturist ; his unqualified approbation of the work is annexed, and will receive from the reader the respect which has been long rendered to his experience. That this work may renew the zeal of those of your members who have labored long in the vineyard without adequate reward, is the wish, Gentlemen, Of yours, respectfully, GEORGE W. BRIMMER. Boston f September i, 1837. LETTER. To G. W. Brimmer, Esq. I return you the Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine on open Walls, by Mr. Hoare, with many thanks for your kindness in leaving it so long- in my hands. I have read this little book with great pleasure and interest, and have derived much valuable information from its pages. The general princi- ples laid down by the author, although applied to the culture of the vine on open walls, are, in my opinion, highly valuable as fundamental rules for the treatment of this plant in all situations, whether indoor or out, on open walls or open trellisses, in town or country, — in fact, wherever the grape vine is cultivated as an edible fruit. Although Mr. Hoare 's mode of training the vine differs essentially from that commonly practised by gardeners, yet the leading principle of his practice will apply equally well to the training of vines on rafters in grape houses; and I am by no means sure, that where the roof of the house alone is appropria- ted to the cultivation of this fruit, that his mode of training might not be adopted with advantage even under glass. I have been for many years in the habit of raising bearing shoots from arms formed in the manner described by Mr. Hoare ; but I have unfor- tunately allowed those arms to extend too far from the stem of the vine, and the consequences pointed out by him have been invaria- bly produced throughout my grape-houses. I have eight or ten vines of this description, of an age and size to be put into bearing during the next year and the year after, and which have not been allowed to injure themselves by bearing. I trust I may be able to test his practice on these vines, by adhering strictly to his rules. 1* VI LETTER. Under Mr. Hoare's plan of cultivation, any man who owns a brick house in any town not north of Massachusetts, may, if his yard be open to the south in any degree, raise as many grapes as will supply his family, without an expense of more time or money than is usually wasted in idleness. Indeed, on the common wooden houses and fences with which our yards are surrounded, good and abundant crops may be had by putting up cheap trellis- ses, which would be paid for in two or three years after the vines get into bearing. But the rules laid down by Mr. Hoare must be adhered to, especially in not attempting to fruit the vines before they are of a proper age and size; when I fully believe that pa- tience will be amply compensated. I hope you will think it worth while to have Mr. Hoare's Trea- tise reprinted, as it will induce many persons, who have means, to undertake the cultivation of this healthful and delicious fruit ; and, by their example, will lead to a general propagation of the vine throughout the State. Very respectfully, Your ob't Servant, SAMUEL G. PERKINS. Brookline, September 1, 1837. TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE, THE EARL OF ARRAN. My Lord, I feel great pleasure in dedicating the following Treatise on the Vine to your Lordship, as the warm and generous patron of every improvement in the science of horticulture. In endeavoring to disseminate the knowledge of an improved mode of cultivating the grape vine, and thereby to open almost a new source of agreeable domestic enjoyment, and of profitable recreation, I consider it an honor to receive the powerful aid of your Lordship's countenance and approbation. In the earnest hope that Providence may be pleased to prolong for many years the benevolent and useful life of your Lordship, I beg to subscribe myself, With great respect, Your Lordship's obliged And humble Servant, THE AUTHOR. ADVERTISEMENT TO THE THIRD EDITION. The Author cannot permit a new edition of his Treatise on the Vine to appear, without expressing the great pleasure he derives, in witnessing the rapid progress that the principles of Vine cul- ture, promulgated in its columns, have made, since they were firs-t brought under the notice of the public. Two large editions have been sold, and the demand is daily increasing. The Author, therefore, flatters himself, that he may now, without being guilty of presumption, consider his Treatise as the standard work of reference in that branch of horticulture of which it treats ; more particularly so, since the major part of the writers in horticultural periodicals, and other works, which from time to time profess to give directions for the management of Vines, are in the constant practice of quoting from his Treatise, (but in general without ac- knowledgment,) the directions therein contained, and the princi- ples upon which they are founded. Shirley Vineyard, near Sonthampion, July 1, 1841. PREFACE. There is not, that I am aware of, any work extant in the English language, that exclusively treats of the vine, except the " Treatise on the Culture of the Vine,'''' written by Speechly, in the year 1789. That work, however, though undoubtedly a val- uable one, and showing on the part of the author a thorough practical knowledge of the nature of the vine, in reference to its culture under glass, is yet not sufficiently full nor explicit with regard to the management of that plant, when cultivated on open walls. Hence the principal reason of the appearance of this volume. In compiling it, I have endeavored, in as plain and as concise a manner as the nature of the subject would admit, to embody all the necessary points of culture, with the principles on which they are founded, and also to arrange them in such a manner as to make their practical application a matter of easy attainment. I have also excluded everything of a technical nature, and have, in many instances, not scrupled to use a phraseology different from that usually employed by writers on horticulture. In adopting this course, my object has been to render the work more generally useful, and especially so to the more humble part of the rural population, by enabling them to avail themselves without difficul- ty of the directions contained in it, and thereby the more readily to induce them to turn their attention to the cultivation of a plant which is capable of adding to their comforts and increasing their enjoyments in a much greater degree than has been hitherto sup- posed. X PREFACE. The details of many operations relative to the culture of the vine, that have been heretofore inserted in vi^orks on gardening, have been excluded in the present work, for the simple, and I trust, satisfactory reason, that the operations themselves, when submitted to the test of experience, have been found either of uncertain issue or of very questionable utility. It remains only to observe, that although the routine of man- agement recommended in the following pages is the result of many years' diligent investigation, andof patient observation, and rests therefore on the firm basis of actual experience, I have no reason to expect, nor do I desire, indeed, that this Treatise should be considered as worthy of the patronage of the public, otherwise than in proportion to the value and usefulness of the improve- ments it is designed to introduce in the culture of that most grateful of all fruit trees, the Grape Vine. CLEMENT HOARE. CONTENTS. Chap. I. Introduction, ..... 11. Observations on the present method of cultivating Grape Vines on open walls, . . . III. On the capability and extent of the fruit-bearing powers of the Vine, . IV. On Aspect, . V. On Soil, A^I. On Manure, . VII. On the construction of Walls, VIII. On the propagation of Vines, IX. On the pruning of Vines, X. On the training of Vines, XI. On the management of a Vine years of its growth, XII. Weekly Calendarial Register, XIII. General Autumnal pruning, XIV. On the Winter management of the Vine, XV. On the planting and management of Vines in the public thoroughfare of towns, XVI. Descriptive Catalogue of twelve sorts of Grapes most suitably adapted for culture on open walls, during the first five Page. 13 20 26 37 42 51 58 65 70 81 90 99 123 130 133 140 On Planting and Managing the Roots of Grape Vines, 147 ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE VINE ON OPEN WALLS. CHAPTER L NTRODUCTION The Grape Vine, Vitis Vinifera. Class and order, Pentandria MoNOGYNiA of Linnaeus. "The grape vine is a trailing, deciduous, hardy- shrub, with a twisted, irregular stem, and long flexi- ble branches, decumbent, like those of the bramble, or supporting themselves, when near other trees, by- means of tendrils, like the pea. The leaves are large, lobed, entire, or serrated and downy, or smooth ; green in summer, but when mature, those of varieties in which the predominating color is red, constantly change to, or are tinged with some shade of that color; and those of white, green, or yellow grapes, as constantly change to a yellow, and are never in the least tinged either with purple, red, or scarlet. The breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or ten inches, and the length of the footstalks from four to eight inches. The flowers are produced on the shoots of the same year, which shoots generally proceed from those of the year preceding; they are in the form of a raceme, of a greenish-white color, and fragrant odor, appearing in the open air in this 2 14 INTRODUCTION. country in June ; and the fruit, wliich is of the berry- kind, attains such maturity as the season and situa- tion admit, by the middle or end of September. The berry or grape is generally globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or finger-shaped; the colors green, white, red, yellow, amber, and black, or a variegation of two or more of these colors. The skin is smooth, the pulp and juice of a dulcet, poignant, elevated, gen- erous flavor. Every berry ought to enclose five small heart or pear-shaped stones; though, as some gen- erally fail, they have seldom more than three, — and some varieties, as they attain a certain age, as the ascalon, or sultana raisin, none. The weight of a berry, depends not only on its size, but on the thick- ness of its skin, and texture of the flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy sorts, as the sweet- water or muscadine." — Loudon^ s EncyclopcBdia of Gardening. Of all the productions of the vegetable world, which the skill and ingenuity of man have rendered conducive to his comfort, and to the enlargement of the sphere of his enjoyments, and the increase of his pleasurable gratifications, the Vine stands forward as the most pre-eminently conspicuous. Its quickness of growth, — the great age to which it will live ; so great indeed as to be unknown, — its almost total ex- emption from all those adverse contingencies which blight and diminish the produce of other fruit-bearing trees, — its astonishing vegetative powers, — its won- derful fertility, — and its delicious fruit, applicable to so many purposes, and agreeable to all palates, in all its varied shapes, combine to mark it out as one of the greatest blessings bestowed by Providence to pro- mote the comfort and enjoyments of the human race. From the remotest records of antiquity, the vine has been celebrated, in all ages, as the type of plenty, and the symbol of happiness. The pages of Scrip- ture abound with allusions to the fertility of the vine as emblematical of prosperity; and it is emphatically INTRODUCTION. 15 declared, in describing the peaceful and flourishing state of the kingdom of Israel during the reign of Solomon, that " Judah and Israel dwelt safely, every man under his vine and under his fig-tree, from Dan even to Beersheba." The source of enjoyment thus mentioned to record the happy state of the Jewish nation, may be, with reference to the vine, literally possessed by the greater portion of the inhabitants of this island. The native country of the vine is generally con- sidered to be Persia, but it has been found wild in America, and is now become naturalized in all the temperate regions of the world. In the northern hemisphere, it forms an important branch of rural economy, from the 21st to the 51st parallel of lati- tude ; and by an improved method of culture, very fine grapes may be annually grown on the surface of walls, in the open air, as far north as the 54th parallel, and even beyond that in favorable seasons. The vine is supposed to have been introduced into Britain at the commencement of the Christian era ; and history amply proves, that for a long series of ages, vineyards were very common in the southern parts of this island, and that the quantity of wine produced from them was so great as to be considered one of the staple products of the land. From some cause or other, however, they have fallen into general neglect, although good grapes might be grown on vines trained as espaliers, or in the same manner as in the vineyards abroad, from which excellent wine could be made, at a cost that would not exceed that of moderately strong beer. Why vineyards should have so completely disappeared, it is difficult to say, since there are many thousands of acres of poor land, that are of little value in an agricultural point of view, but on which vines would flourish, and produce abun- dant crops of grapes, and yield thereby a most profita- ble return. Vines are now cultivated in this country, only 16 INTRODUCTION. against walls, upon the roofs of buildings, and under glass. The expense attending the growing of grapes under glass, is such, however, as obviously to place that method out of the reach of the mass of the people ; and vineyard culture, now that it has fallen into disuse, is, perhaps, considered so much in the light of a commercial speculation, that those who possess the means of practising it, are deterred from employing them, from an apprehension that the risk and uncertainty attending it, would prove more than sufficient to counterbalance its advantages. But the cultivation of vines on open walls being free from these and all other objections, presents an advan- tageous method of producing grapes, which may be embraced by every person who has at his command a few square feet of the surface of a wall. This mode of culture, indeed, offers to the possessors of houses, buildings, and walled gardens, and even to the most humble cottager, ample means of procuring, with the greatest certainty, an abundant supply of this most valuable fruit. It is not too much to assert, that the surface of the walls of every cottage of a medium size, that is applicable to the training of vines, is capable of producing, annually, as many grapes as Avould be worth half the amount of its rental. Every square foot of the surface of a wall, may, in a short space of time, be covered with bearing wood, suffi- cient to produce on an average a, pound weight of grapes, and I have frequently grown double that quantity on a similar extent of surface. From this it will be seen how valuable the surfaces of walls are, and what advantages are lost by those who suffer any portion of them to remain vacant. Nor must it be supposed, that a single vine requires for its training a large portion of walling. That it does, I am aware, is a very common notion, but it is a very erroneous one, and one that has, no doubt, arisen from the universally defective method of pruning and managing that plant ; whereby the wood INTRODUCTION. 17 is sutfered, and, indeed, encouraged to extend itself most disproportionately beyond the capability of its fruit-bearing powers. I scarcely ever allot more than from forty to fifty square feet of surface for one vine, and unless the soil and situation be very superior indeed, a single vine will require a space of time not less than twenty years at least, before it will possess a sufficient degree of strength, to enable it to mature, annually, a greater quantity of grapes than can be trained on the last-mentioned extent of surface. On a wall only twenty-five inches in height, and eighteen feec in length, I have for years trained a vine that is a perfect picture of fertility, the whole surface of the wall being, every year, literally covered with fine grapes close down to the very stem of the plant. It will thus be seen, that small detached portions and vacant spaces of the surface of walls, which, in in- numerable instances are deemed of no value, and are therefore neglected, may be turned to a most benefi- cial account in the production of the fruit of the vine. And with reference to the importance of the cul- ture of the vine, as affording a most valuable and highly esteemed fruit, it deserves especial remark, that for the making of wine, not only are ripened grapes applicable to that purpose, but from the leaves, tendrils, and young shoots of vines, and also from unripe or immature grapes, very fine wine may be made, differing in no respect from many sorts of wines imported from abroad, as the following extract from Dr. MaccuUoch's '-Remarks on the Art of mak- ing Wine," will sufficiently show. " Chemical examination has proved, that the young shoots, the tendrils, and the leaves of the vine, pos- sess properties, and contain substances, exactly similar to the crude fruit. It was no unnatural conclusion that they might equally be used for the purposes of making wine. Experiments were accordmgly insti- tuted in France for this purpose, and they have been 2* 18 INTRODUCTION. repeated here with success. From vine leaves, water, and sugar, wines have been thus produced, in no respect differing from the produce of the immature fruit, and consequently resembhng wines of foreign growth." Here, then, is a most important advantage resulting from the culture of the vine, and one, indeed, that is little inferior to that which is derived from the pro- duction of the ripened fruit itself And in order that it may be properly estimated, it must be borne in mind, that throughout the growing season, the super- abundant foliage of a vine, which consists chiefly of the extremities of the shoots, and the tendrils, is so great, as to require to be plucked off once in every seven days, if not oftener. It is further stated in the above-mentioned work, that from forty to fifty pounds' weight of leaves, &c. will produce about ten gallons of wine. Now, every hundred square feet of the surface of a wall when covered with the foliage of vines in vigor- ous growth, will yield on an average, every week from the middle of May to the first of August, two pounds' weight of excess of fohage. Allowing, therefore, the surface of the walls of a common-sized cottage to contain five hundred square feet, on which vines could be trained, it appears, that during the eleven weeks above mentioned, they would yield a suflacient quantity of foliage to produce upwards of twenty gallons of wine, which could be made for the mere cost of the sugar ! Again, there would be a considerable quantity of foliage to spare, during the remaining months of August and September, to which must be added the excess in- the number of bunches of green fruit, which require cutting off after the berries are set, in order to avoid overcropping the vines, and which sometimes amount to a great number ; and also the berries that are cut out in the thinning of the bunches, the weight of which is always considerable; INTRODUCTION. 19 and these being added to the former, would, at the most moderate calculation, yield in the whole, thirty gallons of wine, thus produced from the superabun- dant foliage and green fruit of vines trained on the surface of a cottage ! Bearing in mind, therefore, these important facts, Avhich cannot be controverted, it will, I think, be readily acknowledged, that too great a degree of importance can scarcely be attached to the cultivation of the vine. The management of this plant is in itself, also, one of the most pleasing, and most interesting branches of horticultural practice. And, it may with truth be asserted, that of all the occupations that can be resorted to for the purposes of recreation, those con- nected with the garden are the most delightful. From these, indeed, spring many of the most elegant enjoyments of life, and the exercise of them is at once a source of health, of contentment, and of unal- loyed, and tranquillizing pleasure. So congenial to our ideas of happiness, is the recreation afibrded by a garden, that there is scarcely any one to whom the possession of it is not an object of strong desire. Yet, to a very numerous class of persons, the in- habitants of towns, this source of enjoyment is in a great measure cut off. The vine, however, can be cultivated equally as well in a town as in the country, and, in very many instances, the means for that purpose are possessed in a much greater degree than in the country. The im- mense accumulation of buildings in towns, and their suburban districts, and also those of the metropolis it- self, present an astonishing extent of surface of wall- ing, well calculated to ripen the fruit of the vine. The only obstacle to the growth of that plant in towns, is the impurity of the atmosphere; but though this impediment is sufficiently formidable, certainly, it exists only in the heart of London, and its dense and crowded districts, and in those of other large towns. 20 PRESENT METHOD OF CULTIVATING I am persuaded, therefore, that, if the method of cultivating the vine on correct principles, and the certainty which, under proper management, never fails to attend the production of its fruit, were more gener- ally known, its propagation and culture would in- crease both in town and country, to an extent that at present can scarcely be conceived. It is for the purpose of diffusing a mode of cultivat- ing this valuable plant, which is more definite and simple in its nature than any that has hitherto been promulgated, and by v/hich the quantity of its fruit may be prodigiously increased, and the flavor greatly improved, that the following pages have been written. It is hoped that the whole management of the vine is therein made sufficiently clear, to enable every person Avho possesses facilities for the growing of grapes to employ them in the most advantageous manner, in the production of this highly esteemed fruit. CHAPTER II. OBSERVATIONS ON THE PRESENT METHOD OF CULTIVAT- ING GRAPE VINES ON OPEN WALLS. There is, I believe, no branch of practical horticul- ture, which the possessors of gardens are so deficient in the knowledge of, as in that which embraces the culture of the grape vine; and yet, singular as it may appear, there is no fruit-tree of any description that grows in this country, that can be depended upon with such certainty for a full crop, or that will yield so ample a return, as a vine judiciously cultivated on an open wall. Let any person, in the month of September, make a GRAPE VINES ON OPEN WALLS. 21 tour of inspection through the southern counties of England, in whicli nearly every cottage may be seen with a grape vine trained on its Avails. Let him stop at intervals in his journey, and select any number of vines for examination, and carefully estimate the weight of fruit growing on each, and the extent of walling occupied in producing that fruit ; and having calculated the average weight grown on every square foot of walling, let him then be told, which he may be with truth, that, at least, ^i;e times the quantity of grapes of superior flavor might be annually produced on the same extent of surface. Let him also select any given district, and estmiate the number of super- ficial feet of walling, which the buildings in that dis- trict contain, and on which nothing whatever is grown, or at least nothing of any value, and which might at a trifling cost of time and trouble, be annu- ally covered with fine crops of grapes, and he will find to his astonishment, that for every square foot on which vines are trained, there are at least twenty square feet that are either entirely vacant, or occupied in a useless manner. If he then sum up his calcu- lations, the result will show, that, for every pound of grapes that is now grown, not less than a hundred pounds might be annually produced on the existing surface of walling without the addition of a single square foot ! Nor let it be supposed that this estimate is made hypothetically ; on the contrary, it is the re- sult of actual inspection and careful observation, and is considerably within the mark as to the quantity of grapes that might be annually grown. Every mode- rate-sized dwelling house having a garden and a little walling attached to it, may, with ease, be made to produce, yearly, a quarter of a ton weight of grapes, leaving a sutficient portion of its surface for the pro- duction of other fruit. It is difiicult to account for the indiflerence which has hitherto been manifested towards the propagation of the vine, or to a.ssign sufficient reasons, why a fruit 22 PRESENT METHOD OF CULTIVATING SO universally esteemed as the grape, should have re- mained stationary, in respect to any improvement in its mode of culture. I suspect, however, that the force of custom and example will be found amongst the chief operating causes. Scarcely any person, when planting vines against his premises, ever thinks of setting apart for any one to be trained on, a less space of walling than a hundred and fifty, or two hundred square feet, see- ing that the universal practice is to suffer a single vine to cover, as quickly as possible, the entire surface of one side of a house or building, or a large portion of that of a garden wall. And this seems to be done under the idea, that the more wood there is in a vine, the more grapes it will produce, or that the one will be in proportion to the other. It happens, however, that the fact is precisely the reverse. If a vine be suffered to make a large quantity of wood, it will bear but little fruit; if it produce good crops of fruit, it will make but little wood; the one checks the other. To permit a vine, therefore, to make a great quantity of wood, under the idea of getting thereby a great quantity of grapes, is completely grasping at the substance, and catching the shadow. Another reason why the method of cultivating the vine on open walls has remained stationary, may be found in the fact, that in the gardens of the rich, where professed gardeners are kept, grapes on vines of this description are but seldom grown to any ex- tent, a sufficient quantity for the table being brought to perfection under glass. Hence one of the principal sources from which improved modes of culture are, in general, derived, is thus closed, and the routine of management of this most valuable fruit thereby con- signed to the chances of empirical practice. The grand parent error which prevails universally in the cultivation of the vine on open walls, lies in the method of pruning usually adopted, and this is, undoubtedly, the consequence of the nature of the GRAPE VINES ON OPEN WALLS. 23 plant and its peculiar characteristics, being, in general, but little understood. The immense quantity of wood which a vine annually produces, and the force with which its sap flows, causing its most vigorous shoots to be formed at the extremities, render it ne- cessary, in order to keep the plant in a good bearing condition, and its branches within a reasonable dis- tance of its stem, that the pruning knife should be used to a far greater extent than is ever practised on any other description of fruit-tree whatever. The most severe manner, indeed, in which that instrument is at any time applied to other trees, is as nothing when compared with that required by the vine. In the course of the growing season, a vine in a healthy condition, will make a quantity of bearing- wood sufficient to produce ten times as much fruit as it can bring to maturity. When this fact is consider- ed in connection with another; namely, that the wood which bears fruit one year, never bears any af- terwards, and is therefore of no further use in that respect; it will easily be seen to what a surprising extent the priming knife must be used, to get rid of the superabundant wood which the plant annually produces. But nine parts out of ten of the current year's shoots, and all those of the preceding year, if possible, to be cut off' and thrown away, is apparently so much beyond all reasonable proportion, and the rules usually observed in pruning other fruit-trees, that few persons ever possess the courage to attempt it. And herein, as remarked before, lies the capital error in the common method of managing the vine. A vine in the third or fourth year of its growth, will in general show a few bunches of grapes, and these are usually suffered to remain and ripen, in- stead of beij]g plucked oft' as soon as they appear, having been produced before the plant has sufficient strength to mature them without injury to its constitu- tion. Although the quantity be small, it inflicts a se- vere blow on the vital energies of the vine, from the 24 PRESENT METHOD OF CULTIVATING exhausting nature of the process of maturation. At the proper season the pruning knife is appUed, but the operator being in perfect ignorance, as to whether the plant has sufficient strength to ripen any fruit or not in the following year, looks at the young wood, and seeing four or five good strong shoots, cuts them back to as many buds each, leaving, perhaps, twenty in the whole. Summer comes, and the vine having been seriously crippled by the premature ripening of fruit in the precedmg year, and having now twenty shoots to supply with nourishment instead of two or three, the sap is so diminished in quantity, and distributed also through so many channels, that it is incapable of forming an inch of really good bearing-wood. The shoots protrude, and though small, produce a great mass of foliage; the evaporation from this being far too great for its loss to be supplied by the roots, a lan- guid circulation of the juices of the plant takes place, and it receives thereby a most serious check in its growth. The result is, that, at the end of the season, no shoots larger in size than that of a small wooden skewer are to be seen except at the extremities. The proper season arriving, the vine is again pruned, and again eight or ten times as many buds are re- tained, as the plant can nourish. The same dispro- portionate mass of foliage follows of course, and the same exhausting effects are produced on the vital powers of the plant. No bearing-shoots are formed except at the extremities, and these being retained at the autumnal pruning, old blank wood begins rapidly to cover the surface of the wall. The method of pruning, also, being, in general, what is called the spur method, tends more than any other to the perma- nent retention of old wood. And thus, the vine com- mences its fruit-bearing life under the most adverse circumstances. The same mode of culture being followed in yearly succession, the vine quickly spreads over its allotted place of walling, exceeding, perhaps, two hundred, or GRAPE VINES ON OPEN WALLS. 25 even three hundred superficial feet. It then contains a vast number of long and useless limbs, on which may be seen scores of excrescences, dignified with the name of spurs, producing in the growing season a superabundance of foliage, but with little fruit, and that of an inferior description, and requiring in its management a tenfold portion of time and trouble, beyond what would be necessary under a proper mode of culture. To these characteristics of the usual method of managing a vine, may be added two others; namely, that of suffering the stem and principal branches to be covered with several years' accumulation of decay- ed layers of bark, and of continually digging the bor- der in which the roots run, and cropping it with vegetables, even close up to the very stem. This brief description of the method of cultivating vines on open walls, will apply, I believe, to ninety- nine out of every hundred throughout the country. And it may be remarked of it, that during the very first year of the plant having been suffered premature- ly to ripen fruit, and throughout every successive year afterwards, not a single point of culture has been practised, but what may be described as most erroneous. Every step taken has been apparently for the purpose of rearing a superstructure of old bar- ren wood, rather than the production of abundant crops of fine flavored fruit. Can it be a matter of surprise, therefore, that under such a mode of culture, grapes grown on open walls, do not, in general, attain to a higher degree of per- fection 7 ?6 FRUIT-BEARING POWERS CHAPTER III. ON THE CAPABILITY AND EXTENT OF THE FRUIT-BEARING POWERS OF THE VINE. There is not a single point of culture in the whole routine of the management of a vine, the knowledge of which is of so much importance, as that which en- ables the cultivator to ascertain with precision, the greatest quantity of fruit he can annually extract from it, without checking its growth, or injuring its vital powers. The operation of pruning, if it be not guided by this, is an operation performed perfectly at ran- dom, and every inch of bearing-wood either cut out, or retained under such circumstances, is done in utter ignorance of the consequences, whether they will ultimately prove injurious or beneficial to the health and fertility of the plant. And yet, necessary as is this knowledge, and without the guidance of which, in pruning, neither good flavored grapes, nor good crops, can with certainty be annually obtained, all the rules hitherto laid down for the pruning of vines, have been promulgated, unaccompanied with the slightest instruction to lead the pruner to a knowl- edge of this most valuable point of culture. Such, however, is the importance of proportioning tlie quantity of fruit to be matured, to the capability of the plant, that in Miller's Gardener's Dictionary it is stated, in reference to the cultivation of the vine in foreign countries, " that when gentlemen abroad let out vineyards to vignerons, there is always a clause inserted in their leases, to direct how many shoots shall be left upon each vine, and the number of eyes to which the branches must be shortened ; because, were not the vignerons thus tied down, they would OF THE VINE. 27 overbear the vines, so that in a few years they would exhaust their roots, and render them so weak, as not to be recovered again in several years, and their wine would be so bad, as to bring a disreputation on the vineyard, to the great loss of the proprietor." Here, then, is a distinct recognition of the fact, that the flavor of grapes, and the vital energies of vines, are materially affected by overcropping, and that, to restrain the lessees of vineyards in foreign countries from practising so injurious a course of cul- ture, the number of eyes to be left on each vine is ac- tually limited, and even made the subject of special contract. Now, if it be necessary to observe such a rule in countries that are congenial to the growth of the vine, and where, from its forming an important branch of rural economy, it may be reasonably pre- sumed, that the true nature of the plant is well under- stood ; how much more so must it be in the latitude of Great Britain, where, from the deficiency of solar heat, and the variableness of the climate, a much greater portion of the vital energy of the vine is put in requisition to ripen the fruit? And yet, who has ever seen, in the English prac- tice of pruning vines, any rule observed of the above- mentioned nature ? In short, the common method of pruning vines on open walls is the most random ope- ration imaginable. In very warm summers, the juices of a vine plant are more highly elaborated than usual, the sap being inspissated, or thickened in a greater degree by the increase of solar heat, in consequence of which, it is rendered more productive of fruit-buds than leaf-l3uds. Shoots that are considerably less in size than those which bear fruit in ordinary summers, will, after being ripened in such a summer, produce fine grapes in the following season; it is next to impossible, therefore, to prune a vme when all the shoots are thus well ripened, so as not to bear a good crop of fruit in the ensuing year. Indeed, a person blindfolded may 28 , FRUIT-BEARING POWERS then take a common sickle, and chop away at a vine right and left, and if he chance to leave any young wood at all remaining, that wood will produce fruit, because nearly every bud formed in such a summer becomes a fruit-bud. In the following year, almost every vine, however injudiciously managed, will be seen loaded with fruit, and the year is then called "a grape year." In such years I have frequently seen vines, groaning as it were beneath their prodigious number of bimches, and have on sach occasions inva- riably pointed out to the owners of them, the cer- tainty of the plants being crippled for many years to come, if the whole quantity produced were suifered to remain and ripen ; but no representation of this sort made by me to any one, whether gardener or otherwise, ever had, in any instance, the effect of causing the excess in the quantity to be reduced, even by a single bunch. So deeply rooted seems to be the belief, that because a vine shotvs a greater number of bunches of grapes, it can, therefore, ripen them. Many years ago 1 was led to consider the necessity of ascertaining the extent of the fruit-bearing powers of vines, in order to insure their successful culture, by founding thereon a system of pruning, which should be simple in practice, and certain in its effects; being based on the principle of proportioning the quantity of bearing-wood retained at the autumnal pruning, to the capability of their powers of matura- tion. For the attainment of that object, therefore, I commenced a series of experiments on a great num- ber of vines of various ages and sorts, and trained on every variety of aspect, south of, and includmg the eastern and western points of the horizon. Knowing by previous experience, that it was possi- ble to load a vine with such a quantity of fruit, as would completely deprive it of life in its endeavors to mature it, and assuming that the circumference of the stem of the plant would form a true index to its vital powers, unless these had been injured by over- OP THE VINE. 29 bearing, several vines remarkably vigorous in growth, and which had been, for three years previously, closely pruned, were in the first place selected for trial, for the purpose of discovering that quantity. That point having been ascertained, it was intended then to select, in every succeeding year, a fresh set of vines, and to reduce, annually, the weight of fruit to be borne by each of them, until the actual quantity which any vine, in proportion to the circumference of its stem, can perfectly mature without injury to its vital powers, was correctly ascertained. In accordance with this intention, the vines first selected, as above mentioned, were pruned in the autumn of 1825, and as much bearing- wood retained, as was supposed would produce sufficient fruit, either to kill them, or cripple them for many years to come. The number of buds retained on each vine, and the circumference of its stem, were carefully registered ; the ensuing summer of 1S26 afibrded a remarkably fine vintage, and was, therefore, a highly favorable year for trial. To describe the results, which with little variation were the same in all, one vine may be advantageous- ly selected. This was a white muscadine, in the eighth year of its age, and, like all the rest, in the highest bearing-condition possible. It produced in the following spring an abundant supply of vigorous bearing-shoots, and showed seventy-eight bunches of fine grapes, the produce of twenty-nine buds, retained on two horizontal right and left shoots. As the season advanced, the shoots extended themselves rapidly, the bunches of fruit increased in size, and the vine thrived as well as usual, seemingly quite unconscious of the task it shortly had to perform. Blossoming being over, and the fruit set, the trial of strength commenced. On the first of July many of the bunches measured eleven inches from the shoul- ders to the extremities, and when matured, would have weighed a pound and a half each. They hung 3* 30 FRUlT-BEARlNG POWERS close together, forming, as far as they extended on the wall, an entire and compact mass of grapes, the weight of which, if ripened, would have exceeded sixty pounds. The middle of that month arrived, and the berries had only reached the size of small peas, Avhile those on other vines, not subjected to any such trial, were full grown, and had commenced the stoning process. On the first of August, no percepti- ble increase of size in the berries had taken place, and the vine began to show strong symptoms of ex- haustion. About the middle of that month the foli- age assumed a withering appearance, and on the first of September the vegetation of the plant was almost at a stand. The shoots ceased to grow, the fruit and foliage were in a prostrate condition, and the vital energies of the vine appeared quite unable to supply the daily increasing demand for nourishment. Throughout that month it continued in a pitiable condition, and though a valuable plant, it was, never- theless, suffered to take its course as well as all the others, in order that the trial might be decisive. About the first of October, the greater part of the berries having grown as large as middling-sized peas, those on the shoulders of some of the bunches began to show symptoms of ripening, by becoming a little transparent, and at the same time, the berries at the extremities of the bunches began to shrivel. As the month advanced, the ripening process proceeded slowly, but the shrivelling increased rapidly. To- wards the latter end of October the trial was over, and the experiment complete: on many entire bunches every berry had shrivelled, and in no bunch had the process of maturation proceeded farther down than the shoulders. The whole crop was gathered about the first of November, and the ripened portions being put together, weighed nine pounds and a half Not one of these ripened berries, however, was more than half the usual size, and, in point of flavor, not to be compared to others of the same sort, ripened, at least, six weeks previously. OF THE VINE. 31 The vine was pruned immediately, and cut almost to a stump, to give it every chance of recovering from the blow it had received. But, in the following spring, not a single bud unfolded till nearly a month after the usual time, and at the close of the season, the largest shoot was only twenty-six inches in length, and no larger than a packing needle, although, in the previous year, the vine had emitted very vigor- ous shoots twenty-live feet in length. It has been pruned very closely every year since, and has in con- sequence gradually acquired strength ; but although eight years have elapsed since the experiment was made, it has not yet recovered its former vigor. The effects produced on the other vines have ultimately proved equally injurious, not one of them having yet acquired anything like the same degree of health which it then possessed. The result of these experiments was decisive as to the proportion of fruit having very greatly exceeded the strength of the vines, some of which, no doubt, would have died from the effects of their own fertili- ty, if they had not previously been in an exceedingly vigorous state. In the following year, 1827, another set of vines was selected for a similar trial of strength, and only half as much fruit retained on each, as on those of the preceding year. This quantity, however, proved far too great, as the grapes only partially ripened, and the vines were completely crippled for several years afterwards. In the three following years, 1828, 1829, and 1830, fresh vines were annually selected for similar experi- ments, and the weight of fruit reduced every succes- sive year, until, in 1830, the object in view seemed to be attained, the grapes having all been perfectly matured, and the vital powers of the vines (which has subsequently been proved) not in the least en- croached upon. Other vines of different ages were also annually 32 FRUIT-BEARING POWERS selected during the above-mentioned period from 1826 to 1830, and as much fruit assigned to each of them to ripen, as was then thought equal to their powers of maturation. The weight so assigned has since proved to have been pretty near the correct pro- portion. The results of all these experiments were carefully registered from year to year, and at the close of 1830, the whole being accurately examined, it appeared clearly that the capability of the vines to mature fruit was in direct proportion to the circumference of their respective stems. Simultaneously, also, with these experiments, sev- eral young vines were annually set apart for the pur- pose of discovering the effects of early bearing on their subsequent growth, and of ascertaining the size which the stem of a young vine must attain, before it is capable of maturing any fruit without injury to its vital powers. From this source much valuable information was obtained, and the fact was also es- tablished, that young vines will always show fruit, before they can ripen it without injuring their future growth and fertility. From the whole of tliese experiments, therefore, a scale was then constructed in accordance with their results, of the weight of fruit which airy vine that has not been previously overcropped, will bring to the highest perfection which the climate will permit, without impairing its vital powers, which was the 'point of knowledge sought to be obtained. Agreeably to this scale, which is inserted below, I pruned, in the winter of 1830, nearly forty vines of different sorts, and of various ages, leaving in each no greater number of buds than appeared on an average calculation to be sufficient to produce as much fruit as the vine was allowed to mature. In the following summer, as soon as the berries were set, the number of bunches required to produce the given weight of fruit was selected to remain, and the excess immediately cut off. I have strictly adhered OF THE VINE. 33 to this plan ever since, and it has enabled me to produce finer grapes than I have ever seen or heard of being grown on open walls in this country. And so prolific does every vine become, from the hard pruning which an adherence to this scale compels, that I have frequently to cut off at the proper period in the summer, as much as one half, and sometimes even three fourths of the fruit which many of the vines show, in order to reduce it to its proper quantity. Vines thus pruned, with the bearing- wood annually adjusted to their respective powers of maturation, being kept within a small compass on the surface of the wall, are easily managed throughout the summer. They never fail to produce an abundant supply of the finest description of bearing-shoots within a reasona- ble distance of their stems, and always bring their fruit to the highest degree of perfection which the climate will permit, with a certainty which has never yet attended the production of grapes on open walls in this country. Scale of the greatest quantity of grapes, which any vine can perfectly mature, in proportion to the circumference of its stem, measured just above the ground. Cir. lbs. 3 Inches 5 3^ do 10 do. 4^ do. 6 do. 5A do. 6 do. 6J do. Cir. lbs. 7 Inches 45 % do. 8 do. 8A do. 9 do. 9^ do. 10 do. It will be seen, that if 2\ inches be deducted from the circumference of the stem of any vine, the capa- bility of it will be equal to the maturation of ten pounds of grapes for every remaining inch of girt. The proportionate quantity for fractional parts of an inch may be easily calculated. The circumference of the largest stem in this scale is ten inches, beyond which size I have had no op- 34 FRUIT-EEAllING POWERS portunity of selecting a sufficient number of vines to enable me to carry the experiments further in a satis- factory manner. I have, however, at various times, examined a great many vines about that size, and have estimated the weight of their respective crops at the vintage, and when the whole crop borne by any vine has been perfectly matured, and a good supply of fine vigorous shoots for future bearing-wood produced simultaneously in the current year, the result has uniformly been that the weight of fruit has not exceeded the proportion mentioned in the scale. I think it not unreasonable, therefore, to conclude, that the same proportionate quantity will apply to every vine, whatever may be the girt of its stem. No vine is taken cognizance of, until its stem meas- ures three inches in girt, as, under that size, vines ought never to be suffered to ripen any fruit. This is a rule that should be strictly adhered to in the management of young vines, for it may be safely as- serted, that for every pound weight of grapes ex- tracted from a vine before it has grown to that size, ten pounds will be lost during the next five years, independently of the very severe check which is given to its growth by premature bearing. But by husbanding its strength, till its roots have multiplied sufficiently to provide a full supply of nourishment without suffering from exhaustion, the plant com- mences its fruit-bearing life with a degree of vigor which lays a sure foundation for its future pros- perity. It may be remarked, tliat, in general, vines are suffered to bear a much greater quantity of grapes than the above scale represents, but in all such cases it will be found, that they are not jyerjecily ripened, the grand desideratum in grapes, when used as table fruit, is flavor^ and this is entirely regulated by the circumstances under which they are ripened. One of those circumstances is the quantity of grapes suffered to remain and ripen, as compared with the strength of the vine. The respective quantities mentioned in the OF THE VINE. 35 scale are such as every vine of the given girt of stem can perfectly mature, but if these be exceeded, the flavor will immediately begin to diminish, and the vine may then be said to be overcropped. On the other hand, although a less quantity of grapes may be matured by a vine, than the proportion represented in the scale, the flavor will not thereby be increased, in which case the vine will be undercropped. This, however, very seldom happens ; but to go beyond the true bearing point, and to overcrop a vine when- ever the quantity of fruit shown will admit of it, is of almost universal occurrence, not only with vines trained on open walls, but with those imder glass also. It is impossible to place this injurious practice in too prominent a point of view, for it is the prolific parent of almost every evil that can befal a vine, and it is really so general, that scarcely one vine in ten thousand escapes it. Although, therefore, the proportionate quantities mentioned in the scale are much less than vines are frequently permitted to bear, they may be regarded as a close approximation to the greatest weight of fruit which can be borne, so as to be brought to the high- est degree of maturation which the climate will permit. There may be a little increase in the powers of maturation of vines, when trained on very warm aspects, but I have never found it prevail to any extent, nor to be sufficiently uniform in its occur- rence, to justify any variation in the proportions laid down in the scale. Some sorts of vines, also, are constitutionally disposed to shoio more fruit than other sorts, but the capability to mature the fruit is pretty nearly equal in all. It may be further re- marked, that if a vine during any season be under- cropped, the deficiency may be partly made good the following year, by causing it to bear a considerable portion of fruit more than its allotted quantity, as stated in the scale. This results from the sap not having been all expended in ripening the fruit; it has in consequence accumulated, and the plant is thereby 36 FRUIT-BEARING POWERS OF THE VINE. enabled to mature a greater weight of fruit in the ensuing season, than it otherwise could do, from the sap generated in the current year. The manner in which it is intended that this scale should be practically applied, is to measure the stem of a vine at the autumnal pruning, and to retain no more good well-ripened fruit-buds than is supposed necessary to produce the given Aveight of fruit that corresponds to its girt. And if there should be any excess above that quantity in the ensuing summer, the crop must be reduced to the given weight, by cutting oft' a sufficient number of bunches, as soon as the blossoming is over and the fruit set, as the weight of it when ripened may then be easily esti- mated. With respect to the number of buds that are neces- sary to be left at the autumnal pruning to produce any given weight of fruit, I have found it to be a good general rule, and applicable to all those sorts of grapes usually cultivated on open walls, to consider every bud (rejecting the two bottom ones on each shoot) as equal to the production of half a pound weight of fruit; — that is, if the stem of a vine measure five inches in girt, its capability is equal to the maturation of twenty-five pounds' weight of grapes, and, therefore, the number of buds to remain after pruning will be fifty. This proportion would, in general, be too great, even in the shyest-bearing sorts: but as accidents frequently happen to the bunches during their early growth, and as there will, in general, be some buds that will not burst, provision must be made against these casualties, by reserving a greater number of buds than would otherwise be re- quired. The proportionate number, therefore, above- mentioned, I have found to answer well, and to be sufficient to meet all contingencies. It is necessary to observe, that all the experiments on which the scale is foimded were made on vines growing in 5U° 46' north latitude. ON ASPECT. 37 CHAPTER IV. ON ASPECT. A GOOD aspect, which is of prime importance in perfecting the fruit of the vine, may be termed, when considered in reference to the surface of walls, an amehoration of chmate; and soil and climate are the two grand causes of all the ditferences which appear in the prodnctions of the earth. The warmer the aspect, the greater perfection does the grape attain in our climate, provided all other cir- cumstances are alike ; and if the greatest quantity of the sun's rays shining on the surface of a wall were alone to be considered as constituting the best aspect, there would, of course, be no difficulty in naming a due southern one as better than any other. But warmth alone is not sufficient; shelter is equally necessary. There is a strong counteracting agent, which, as its effects fall more or less on any surface of walling on which vines are trained, proportionately injures them and retards their growth, and the matu- ration of their fruit. That agent is the wind. There is no period in the growth of a vine, from the moment of its being planted as a cutting or other- wise, to the extremity of its existence, in which any movement of the air, that may properly be called wind^ will not have a greater or less pernicious effect on its well-being. The perspiration of a vine is so great, principally through the medium of its fine large leaves, with their broad surfaces disposed in such a manner as to enjoy the full effects of the solar and atmospherical influences, that an extraordinary supply of sap is required, to rise every instant of time throughout the growing season, to enable it to recruit its loss. On the foliage of a plant, performing some 4 38 ON ASPECT. of its most important functions in such a manner, if a strong wind should blow at any time for the space only of a few hours, the flow of sap is seriously checked, evaporation proceeds at a most exhausting rate, and the leaves and young shoots being speedily emptied of the moisture accumulated in their cells and vessels, become rigid, and their pores completely closed. The vegetative powers of the plant being thus prostrated, cannot resume their functions till after the wind has ceased for several hours, or even days, according to its previous violence and duration. I have made repeated observations on the growth of the leading shoots of vines in the height of the growing season, and have many times noted the fact, that during the space of twenty-four hours, when the wind has blown briskly, the shoots exposed to its influence have not perceptibly grown at all ; while, shortly afterwards, the wind having entirely sunk away, the same shoots have grown upwards of three inches in a similar space of time, the temperature of the air in a sheltered situation being alike during each period. And if two young vines be planted by the side of each other, against a wall exposed to the north, for the purpose of trying the expernnent, by excluding the influence of the sun's rays, and one be kept nailed to the wall every five or six inches of its growth throughout the summer, and the other be suflered to be blown about without any such protec- tion; the former will be found at the end of the season, to have grown in the size and extent of its shoots, three or four times as much as the latter. Nothing, indeed, can be more tender, or less calcu- lated to withstand the effects of the wind than the extremities of the young shoots of a vine, which, from being extremely porous, are almost as suscepti- ble of its withering influence as the Sensitive Plant is of the touch of the hand. Many instances might be circumstantially detailed of the injurious effects of the wind upon established ON ASPECT. 39 vines during their summer's growth ; two, however, of recent occurrence, will perhaps suffice. On the eleventh of June, 1833, a strong wind sprang up early in the morning from the west, and mcreased in force till noon, when it blew quite a gale, and continued so to do throughout the day. It slackened a little during the night, and gradually decreased in violence the next day, dying entirely away by the evening. The effects of this wind on a vine of the White Muscadine sort trained on a wall having a western aspect, were carefully observed. Tt had on a full crop of fruit, and a good supply of fine young bearing-shoots, and was altogether in a most thriving condition. Such, however, were the injuri- ous effects of the wind, in dissipating all the accu- mulated secretions of the foliage, and then closing, almost hermetically, its pores, and thereby totally deranging the vital functions of the plant, that, al- though in the height of the growing season, not the slightest appearance of renewed vegetation could be discerned in any part of its leaves, shoots, or fruit, until the third day of July, or twenty-two days after- wards. It never produced another inch of good bearing-wood throughout the remainder of the season, but lingered in a very weak and sickly condition; and the fruit, which had been previously estimated at 901bs. weight, did not exceed 551bs. when gathered, and that of a very inferior description, in point of flavor, and size of berry. Its leaves^ also, having been thus crippled, were shed prematurely, a month before their natural time, and hence the deficiency in the flavor and size of the grapes. The other instance, which happened shortly after- wards, is still more decisive. On the 30th of August following, about eight o'clock in the evening, a strong wind began to blow from the south-west, accom- panied with heavy rain. At nine it blew violently, and continued so to do until noon the next day. It then slackened, and, veering to the north-west, died away some time during the following night. 40 ON ASPECT. The full force of this wind fell on a remarkably fine Black Hamburg vine, trained on a wall, having a south-south-western aspect, and its effects were, therefore, proportionately destructive. Many of the principal branches were torn so completely from their fastenings, that their extremities swept the ground. The bunches of fruit were knocked about, and por- tions of them, as well as single berries, lay scattered on the ground in every direction. On the fruit, however, that survived the wreck, the effects of the wind were remarkable. It must be stated, that the wall on which the vine is trained, is ten ieet high, and is so situated, that, to the height of about three feet from the ground, the wind had but little power over it, its force being broken by an outer wall, stand- ing at a little distance off, in front of it. On the lower part of the wall so protected, the grapes, not having been much injured, began to change their color and ripen about the twentieth of September, and on the twelfth of October every berry was perfectly matured ; while all those that remained on the vine above three feet from the ground, were, on the first of November, as green and as hard as on the thirtieth of August, when the high wind occurred. Shortly afterwards these began to change their color, and ulti- mately ripened tolerably well by the first week in December. Thus, solely through the effects of a strong wind, there were to be seen at the same time, on the same branches of this vine, and within nine inches of each other, bunches of grapes, the lower- most of which were perfectly ripe, while the upper- most were quite green and hard, and not within seven weeks of reaching the same state of maturity. These facts, which might be multiplied indefinite- ly, sufficiently show the injurious effects of strong winds, and the necessity of protecting vines as much as possible from their destructive consequences. Nor V must it be supposed that fdgh winds are those only \ which injure the vine. Every wind that blows on I the foliage of a vine deranges its functions, and ON ASPECT. 41 thereby retards the growth of the plant, and the ma- turation of its fruit, in a greater or less degree, in pro- portion to its violence and duration. In the choice of a good aspect, therefore, shelter from high or often-recurring winds becomes a prime con- sideration ; and those aspects that are the least exposed to their effects, and that receive a full portion of solar rays, may, accordingly, be deemed the best. There are, however, in general, so many local circumstances which affect the warmth and shelter of the surfaces of walls and buildings, that these alone, where they ex- ist, must determine the best aspects for the training of vines. But if there be no such local circumstances to influence the choice of aspect, then, I have no hes- itation in stating, from a careful observation of the qualities and flavor of the fruit of the diflerent vin- tages for many years past, that the best aspects in which grapes can be brought to the highest degree of perfection on open walls that the latitude and climate of the southern parts of England will permit, are those that range from ihe eastern to the south- eastern^ both inclusive, the last of which, indeed, may be con- sidered the very best. On walls having any of these aspects the sun shines with full force in the early part of the morning, at which time there is something highly favorable to vegetation in the influence of his rays. These, dart- ing nearly perpendicularly on the foliage of a vine, while the dew yet remains, and its beautiful crystal drops hang suspended, as it were by magic, to the angular extremities of the leaves, seem to stimulate the vital energies of the plant in an extraordinary degree, and to excite them to a vigorous exercise of all the important functions appertaming to vegetable hfe. The next best aspects are those which follow in succession from south-east to south. An aspect due south is undoubtedly a very good one, but its expos- ure to those strong winds which so frequently blow from the souih-west forms a great drawback to its 4* 42 ON SOIL. excellence. The remaining aspects are those which range successively from due south to due west. These are all good ones, provided they are sheltered, or par- tially so, from the destructive effects of the high winds above -mentioned. North of the tvesteni point, the maturation of the wood and fruit of the vine be- comes uncertain ; nevertheless, tolerably good grapes may be grown on the surface of a wall, having an as- pect not farther north than icest by north. There is however another aspect, that is noy^th of the eastern point of the horizon, which is a very good one indeed, and that is east by north. On a wall facing this point, the sun shines till about eleven o'clock in the morning. I have, for many years past, brought several sorts of grapes, including the Black Hamburg, to great perfection in this aspect. North of this point, however, the solar rays are not sufficiently powerful to mature either the wood or fruit of the vine. CHAPTER V. ON SOIL. The natural soil which is most congenial to the growth of the vine, and to the perfection of its fruit in this country, is a light, rich, sandy loam, not more than eighteen inches in depth, on a dry bottom of gravel, stones, or rocks. No sub -soil can possess too great a quantity of these materials for the roots of the vine, which run with eagerness into all the clefts, crevices, and openings in which such sub-soils abound. In these dry and warm situations, the fibrous extremities, pushing themselves with the greatest avidity, and continually branching out in every possible direction, lie secure from that excess of moisture which frequently accumulates in ON SOIL. 43 more compact soils ; and, clinging like ivy romid the porous surfaces of their retreats, extract therefrom a species of food, more nourishing than that obtained by them under any other circumstances whatever. One of the principal causes of grapes not ripening well on open walls in this country, is the great depth of 7iiould in which the roots of vines are suffered to run, which, enticing them to penetrate in search of food below the influence of the sun's rays, supplies them with too great a quantity of moisture; vegeta- tion is thereby carried on till late in the summer, in consequence of which, the ripening process does not commence till the declination of the sun becomes too rapid to afford a sufliciency of solar heat to perfect the fruit. To prevent this, the sub-soil should be composed of dry materials. It is almost impossible, indeed, to make a vhie border of materials that shall be too dry or porous. It is not mere earth that the roots require to come in contact with, to induce growth and exten- tion, but air also, which is as necessary to them as to the leaves and branches. The excrementitious mat- ter discharged from the roots of a vine is very great ; and if this be given out in a soil that is close and adhesive, and through which the action of the solar rays is feeble, the air in the neighborhood of the roots quickly becomes deleterious, and a languid and diseased vegetation immediately follows. But if the roots grow in a soil composed of dry materials, mixed together in such a manner as to possess a series of cavities and interstices, into which the sim's rays can enter with freedom, and there exert their full power, the air in which the roots perform their functions be- comes warmed and purified, they absorb tlieir food in a medium which dissipates their secretions, and a healthy and vigorous vegetation is the never-failing consequence. The roots of every plant have a particular tempera- ture in which they thrive best; and that which those of the vine delight in most is generated in a greater 44 ON SOIL. degree in stony or rocky soils, than in any other. This is easily accounted for from the fact that soils of this description, being quickly rendered dry by evap- oration, are always free from that excess of moisture which is so injurious to the growth of the vine. It may hence be inferred, that vines will not flour- ish in a cold wet soil, nor in one composed of a stiff heavy clay. Grapes produced on vines planted in such soils scarcely ever ripen well, and if so, never possess the flavor of those grown on vines planted in a dry soil. Vines may be seen in all parts of the country, the fruit on which looks well during the early part of the season, but when the ripening period arrives the berries remain green and hard, or other- wise they shrivel and decay. These results are sure to be produced when the roots grow in a soil that is too wet and adhesive, and into which the sun and air cannot freely penetrate. All borders, therefore, made expressly for the re- ception of vines, ought to be composed of a suflicient quantity of dry materials, such ^s stones ; brickbats^ broken moderately small; lumps of old mortar; broken pottery ; oyster shells^ <^*c. (^*c., to enable the roots to extend themselves freely in their search after food and nourishment ; tiO keep them dry and v/arm by the free admission of air and solar heat : and to admit of heavy rains passing quickly through, without being retained sufficiently long to saturate the roots, and thereby injure their tender extremities. In preparing the border, then, the first thing is to secure a dry bottom. If the soil and sub-soil be nat- urally such, as is described above as the most conge- nial to the growth of the vine, nothing more is re- quired, than to trench the ground two spit deep, to clean it well from all weeds and roots, and to make it as fine as possible, and it v/ill then be in a proper state to receive the vines. But if the sub-soil be not naturally dry, it must be made so by the usual process of draining, which is the basis of every improvement that can be made in ON SOIL. 45 the soil. The bottom of the drains ought, if possible, to be four feet from the surface, and the drains a foot deep, the clear depth of the border will then be three feet. If the soil of this be heavy, and of a retentive nature, two thirds of it ought to be taken entirely away, and the remaining portion, which should be the top spit, made very fine. The deficiency should be made good, by adding an equal quantity of dry materials of the above-mentioned description, and of the sweepings of a high road, all of which must be well mixed and incorporated together. If the natural soil of the border be too sandy and light, the same process may be followed with the exception of the addition of road sweepings. In lieu of these, should be added a sufliciency of fine mould collected from molehills, which is generally of a rich loamy nature ; or of fresh soil from some neighboring meadow or common, which, if well pastured, will prove very fertile; but if neither of these can be procured, the deficiency may be made good from the top spit of a field of good arable land. And of whatever nature the soil may be, in which it is intended to plant vines, it ought to contain, at least, one-third of dry materials of the above-men- tioned description. With respect to the sweepings of roads, I am de- cidedly' of opinion, that those obtained from a turn- pike road, or from any other high road kept in a good state of repair by the frequent addition of stones, and on which there is a considerable trafilc of horses or other cattle, is the very best compost that can be added to any border intended for the reception of vines. Its component parts, consisting chiefly of sand, gravel, pulverised stones, and the residuum of dung and urine, aftbrd a great quantity of food, and of a richer and more lasting nature, than can be found in any other description of compost, that I have ever seen, or heard of being used for that purpose. I have, on many occasions, opened the borders of vines to examine the direction of their roots, and 46 ON SOIL. to discover the particular species of soil which they preferred, and 1 have uniformly found, that where any portion of this compost had been introduced, the fibrous extremities of the roots had pushed themselves into it, and multiplied there in a tenfold degree be- yond those in the adjacent soil. T think, therefore, that however rich the soil of a vine border may naturally be, a portion of this compost may be added to it with the greatest advantage. It should be scraped or swept off the road, when it is not so wet as to cake together, nor so dry as to be bordering upon dust, but in a moderately dry state, betwixt the two extremes. It ought to be mixed with the other components of the border, soon after it has been col- lected from the road, as all its valuable qualities will then be preserved entire. In putting the materials of the border together, as many whole bones as can possibly be procured should be inserted with them, (in the manner hereafter men- tioned in the chapter on manure.) and if these cannot be obtained in sufficient abundance, then, such other substances as are therein recommended as manures, may be substituted. It is desirable that the width oif the border should not be less than eight feet, if local circumstances will permit, but if not, one of less width must suffice. For the space of about a couple of feet in breadth from the bottom of the wall, a sufficient quantity of stones or gravel, but not of a binding nature, should be laid, to form a path to stand on, in order to perform with cleanness and fa- cility, those necessary operations on the vines, which are almost daily required throughout the summer. Stones, or gravel, thus laid over the border at the bottom of the wall, will likewise be productive of great advantage in radiating the heat of the sun's rays, and thereby hastening the maturation of the fruit growing on the lower part of the wall ; and also in keeping it clear, and free from splashes of dirt, that are frequently the consequences of heavy rains. Small shingle, procured from the sea beach, when ON SOIL. 47 local circumstances will permit, is exceedingly well calculated for the purpose, and the surfaces of it being rendered white and smooth by the attrition of the sea, it produces a very pleasing and cheerful effect. The border should be perfectly level, or, if a slop- ing surface cannot be avoided, the descent must be from the wall. No other plant or tree of any descrip- tion should be intermixed with the vines, or trained against the wall. If other trees be trained on the surface of the wall amongst the vines, the current year's shoots of the latter will be liable to be shaded, and impeded in their growth and training, and be thereby deprived of the full advantages of the heat of the wall. It will also prove very beneficial to the growth and fertility of the vines, and to the flavor of the fruit, if the border in which they are planted be never cropped nor digged. The cropping of a vine border is of a highly mjurious tendency, for it not only impoverishes the soil, but shades it from the influence of the sun and air, which is a consideration of the very last importance. Soiar heat, indeed, is the only thing that this country is deficient in, as it respects the culture of the vine; and there can be no doubt, I think, that if we had but a trifling portion more of it, the southern parts of England would pro- duce grapes on open walls, equal in point of flavor to those grown in the most auspicious climates. Great care, therefore, ought to be taken never to intercept or obstruct for a smgle hour, during any part of the year, the full and du'ect operation of the sun and air on the surface of a vine border. It must also be stated, that after a vine has been planted three or four years, its roots will begin to make their way upwards, towards the surface of the border, doubtless attracted thither by the joint influ- ence of the sun and air. And if the border be not disturbed by cropping or digging, they will come up close to the surface about the ninth or tenth year. In this situation they receive an extraordinary in- 4o ON SOIL. crease of solar heat, the very life and soul of all vege- tation, and being, moreover, near the surface, they can be nourished with liquid manure, to any extent that may be necessary. These surface roots ought, therefore, to be taken great care of and encouraged by all possible means, as being amongst the most valuable of any belonging to the vine, and as con- tributing in a high degree to improve the flavor of the fruit, and to insure its ripening, even in the most unfavorable seasons. The border, therefore, after it is once made, ought never to be stirred but at intervals, when necessary to prevent the surface of it from becoming a hard, impervious coat. On such occasions it should be carefully forked to the depth of a couple of inches, which will keep it sufficiently loose and open, to re- ceive the full influence of the sun and air. When- ever weeds appear, they should be hoed up, or pluck- ed by the hand immediately. In fine, the border should be kept sacred from the intrusion of any other plant, tree, or vegetable production whatsoever, and be solely devoted to the growth and nourishment of the roots of the vines. Here, before concluding these remarks upon soil, it is necessary to observe, that although the foregoing directions with respect to soil, the preparation of bor- ders, &c. will, if followed, ensure the prosperous growth of vines, and the annual production and ma- turation of fine crops of grapes, and are therefore highly deserving of being practically adopted at all times when circumstances permit; yet, it must not therefore be supposed, that vines will not grow and mature fine fruit, unless planted in well-prepared bor- ders. Quite the contrary is the fact, for vines will do well in any unprepared soil, that 4s not too stiff, and that has a dry bottom, but they grow quicker, and consequently bear greater crops of grapes within a given space of time, when planted in a soil that has been properly prepared for their reception. For instance, if two cuttings be planted, the one in ON SOIL. 49 the soil of the former description, and the otlier in one of the latter, it will be found at the end of ten years, that the stem of the vine growing in the soil that was unprepared, will not be more than half the size of that planted in the other; consequently for every pound weight of fruit which the smaller stemmed vine can mature, the other will ripen very nearly three pounds. This difference occurring an- nually, is sufficiently great, to repay most amply the trouble and expense incurred in making a suitable border, whenever local circumstances will permit of such an operation being performed. Nevertheless, the disadvantages of a poor soil, or an unprepared one, may in some measure be compensated, by plant- ing the vines closer together, in which case, the sur- face of the wall will be much sooner covered with fruit than otherwise. If vines, indeed, could not be planted with any prospect of success in any other situations than in borders set apart for that purpose, but a very small quantity of grapes could be grown, compared with what the country is capable of pro- ducing. Innumerable instances occur throughout the country, and especially in towns and their suburban districts, in which walls, cottages, houses, and various descriptions of brick and stone erections present very favorable aspects for the training of vines, but which, nevertheless, are so situated locally, as to possess little or no soil at all on the surface adjoining their sites ; the ground being either paved with bricks or stone, or perhaps trodden so hard, as to be apparently incapable of yielding sustenance to any vegetable production. In all such cases, however, if the ground adjoining the site of the wall or building be opened to the extent of eighteen inches square, and as many deep, it will be sufficient to admit the roots of a young vine, which must be pruned to suit that space. If a wider and deeper space can be made, it will of course be better, but if not, that will do. After the sides and bottom have been loosened as much as possible, 5 50 ON SOIL. the vine may be planted, and the hole filled up with two-thirds of rich loamy earth, and one-third of road scrapmgs, previously mixed well together; and, if necessary, the surface covering, wliether of stone, brick, or otherwise, may be restored again to its former state, provided a space of about six inches square be left open for the stem to swell in during its future growth. Vines planted in such situations, will, in general, do well, although their growth will not be so rapid as when planted under more favorable circumstances. In all cases where vines are planted against any description of buildings, their roots pusli as soon as possible imder the foundations, being attracted thither by the warm air which is there generated ; and such situations being also dry, from the excavations which have been made, offer to the roots the same protec- tion from excessive moisture, as the substratum of a well-prepared border. The same may be observed of vines planted against walls, the foundations of which possess similar advantages, although in a more limited degree. Hence the fact may be inferred, that vines planted in such situations, w^ithout any previous pre- paration of the soil, will frequently grow as luxuri- antly, and produce as fine grapes as those planted in rich and well -prepared borders. Indeed, it is hardly possible to plant a vine in any situation in which it will not thrive, provided its roots can by any means push themselves into a dry place, and the aspect be such as to afford to its brandies a sufficient portion of the sun's rays to elaborate the juices of the plant. The truth is, that the roots of the vine possess an extraordinary power of adapting themselves to any situation in which they may be planted, provided it be a dry one. They will ramble in every direction in search after food, and extract nourishment from sources apparently the most barren. In short, they are the best caterers that can possibly be imagined, for they will grow, and even thrive luxuriantly, where almost every other description of plant or tree would mevitably starve. ON MANURE. 51 CHAPTER VI. ON MANURE. Every substance that enriches the soil, and stimu- lates the growth of plants, may be called a manure. As a border in which vines are to be planted ought never to be disturbed, after having been once properly made, it follows, that those manures that can be applied with advantage to promote their growtli, comprehend, ^r^^, such as can be mixed and incor- porated with the soil at the formation of the border, and which add to its fertility, from time to time, ac- cording to the respective periods of their decomposi- tion and amalgamation with it; and, secondly^ such as can be apphed in a liquid state, or otherwise, as a top-dressing, at any subsequent period. Of these manures, therefore, that may be mixed with the soil when the border is first made, the best are such as possess the two valuable qualities of afford- ing to the roots of the vine, the highest degree of nourishment combined with the greatest permanency of duration. Of this description are bones^ horns and hoofs of cattle, bone dust, the entire carcases of ani- mals, cidtings of leather, woolen rags, feathers, and hair. It is unnecessary to enter into a minute detail of the various properties of these manures; chemical analy- sis having ascertained, and experience amply proved, that all of them, as they gradually and respectively decompose, offer to the roots of plants an abundant supply of food of the most nourishing description. Bones, however, on account of their prolonged effect, are by far the most valuable manure that can be deposited in a vine border. They should be buried in the soil whole, as fresh as possible. Every variety of size may be procured, from the smallest bone of a 52 ON MANURE. fowl, to the largest bone of an ox. The small bones will decompose in a few months, but the largest will remain for twenty, thirty, and even fifty years, be- fore they are entirely decayed, while the intermediate- sized ones, according to their respective kinds, will be continually decomposing in succession for a great number of years, yielding thereby a constant supply of nutriment of the most valuable description. It is worthy of remark, also, that every bone, whether small or large, after it has been deposited in the soil a few weeks, will begin to yield, by the decomposi- tion of the gluten on its surface, a steady supply of nutritious matter, and continue so to do, until it be resolved into its constituent parts, and form part of the soil itself Many results might be adduced, of experiments tried at various times, to ascertain the value of entire bones as manure to the roots of vines, all of which would prove, that they yield, beyond all comparison, a xnoxe permanent supply of nourishment than can be obtained from any other substance used as manure. The details of these would occupy too great a space ; those of two, however, may perhaps be advantage- ously mentioned. In the year 1826, several vines were planted against a wall having a south aspect, in a border the soil of which is a stiff clayey loam. In the following year a quantity of bones, not more than a bushel, the largest of which was the blade bone of a calf, was digged in- to the border at a distance of five feet from the wall. They were deposited altogether as a horizontal layer of six inches in depth, the upper surface being twelve inches, and the bottom eighteen, from the surface of the border. In the spring of 1833, the border was opened; in order to ascertain to what extent the roots of the vines were nourished by these bones. On ex- amination, it was found that the roots had branched out in every possible direction amongst the bones, the surfaces of which were completely covered with their fibres. The blade bone happened to be in such a po- ON MANURE. 53 sition, that both sides of it could be distinctly seen, and on examining them minutely, they appeared to have every part of their surface covered with the smallest fibres imaginable; so small, indeed, were some of them, that they could scarcely be discerned by the naked eye. Their extremities were fixed on the sur- face of the bone, as firmly, and in the same manner as a leach when applied for the surface of sucking blood, and they were evidently extracting, by means of their mouths or pores, an abundant supply of nourishing food. From the different shades of color apparent in many of the larger parent fibres, and other indications of annual growth, it appeared, that they had been en- joying the banquet which this bone aftbrded for at least five years; and as it was but little decayed, it seemed to promise them a continuation of the feast for ten or fifteen years to come. The whole appear- ance of the bone was singular in the extreme, being completely enveloped in a mass of apparently beauti- ful gauze net-work. The chief part of the roots which had multiplied so prodigiously amongst these bones, was found to pro- ceed from a single root, which had pushed itself hori- zontally, and in a direct line through the border till it reached the bones, throwing out in its course but few fibres, the soil being of an unfavorable nature to afford them much food. The root proceeded from a Black Hamburg vine, which has for several years past pro- duced some of the finest-bearing shoots 1 ever saw, from which I annually obtain bunches of grapes weighing from one to two pounds, with berries meas- uring from two inches and a half to three inches in circumference. A similar examination of another border some years since, produced the like result. About seven years previously to my inspecting it, a few bones had been inserted in the soil, one of which was the thigh bone of an ox. After carefully removing the top spit of the border, into which tlie fibres of the roots had pushed themselves pretty thickly, I discovered this 5* . ■ ■ ■ • 64 ON MANURE. bone about a foot below the surface, and about four feet distant from the stem of a vine. Tlie hollow part which had contained the marrow, was open at both ends. On examining it I found that a root of the vine had traversed the surface of it, in a direct line from one end to the other, throwing out an im- mense number of small fibres, which covered its en- tire convex surface. On a closer inspection, and tracing the course of the root, it appeared, that when it had reached the end of the bone, instead of push- ing straight forward into the soil, it had turned down over the single thickness, entered the hollow part, and was returning, through the inside of the bone, towards the same end at which it first came in contact with it. The bone was very thick, and though it had been in the ground seven years, it presented scarcely any signs of decay. It was so completely enveloped in fibres, that no further examination could take place without putting the health of the vine in jeopardy. This vine is also a Black Hamburg, and for many years past it has annually produced both fruit and current year's bearing-shoots, of the very finest de- scription, although the soil in which it grows is far from being a rich one. The fact of the root clinging to the bone, and making a retrograde movement through the hollow part of it, rather than push for- ward in to the soil, is conclusive as to its decided pre- ference of the former to the latter; and the surprising nnmber of fibres which, in both of these instances, were absorbing nutriment through the medium of their spongioles, or newly-formed extremities, clearly shows, that whole bones deposited in. the soil in their fresh and entire state, furnish to the roots of vines for a long period of time an extraordinary supply of food of the richest description. I have stated these circumstances in detail, because such facts are worth all the theories in the world. Horns and hoofs of cattle^ or the parings or shav- ings of them, may be classed next to bones in point of value, while their effects last, but their duration is not ON MANURE. 55 SO long, nor are they, indeed, to be procured in suffi- cient abundance, to be calculated upon for an ade- quate supply. Bone diisi, is a very powerful manure, producing immediate effect, and is lasting in its duration ; but the process of boiling bones, previously to their being crushed, deprives them of their very best qualities. The entire carcases of animals^ or any 'portions of them^ dead birds, <^'c. (^^c, independently of their bones, yield, after decomposition, an extraordinary supply of food for the roots of vines, impregnating the soil all around with a great quantity of nutritious matter. Dead animals of every description, therefore, such as dogs, cats, pigs, (fcc. that have died, may be thus disposed of in a most advantageous manner, by depositing them in their entire state in the vine border. Cidiings of leatJier, old or neM\ old shoes, (^*c. are a very valuable manure, remaining in the ground many years before entirely decomposed. The roots of vines are very partial to this description of manure. 1 have examined the soles of old shoes, that have been de- posited in the soil upwards of seven years, and have found their surfaces covered with fibres, feeding eager- ly upon them. Woollen rags, feathers, and hair, may all be men- tioned as valuable manures, yielding, during their de- composition, a great supply of nutritious matter. A vast number of other substances well known as manures might be enumerated, but though many of these would be found to be very valuable with refer- ence to their immediate effect, their good qualities being of transient duration, would be entirely dissi- pated before the roots of the vines could derive any lasting benefit from. them. Moreover, powerful ma- nures of short duration excite vines to a sort of pre- mature growth, and when the roots are becoming strong and vigorous, and capable of absorbing with advantage a greater quantity of nutriment, the manure is exhausted, and the plants immediately make a re- 56 ON MANURE. trograde movement in consequence of having been unnaturally excited by a gluttonous supply of stimu- lating food. Steadiness of supply and pennanency of duration^ are the two grand requisites of all manures intended to be deposited in borders appropriated for the growth of vines; and those already enumerated have been found by experience to possess these valu- able qualities in a greater degree than any other. As a point of culture of great importance to be at- tended to, in depositing manure in the soil, care must be taken not to dig it in too deeply. The roots of vines should be induced to extend themselves in a horizon- tal manner, and as near the surface of the border as possible. Solar heat is generally supposed to pene- trate to the depth of three feet, but its effects at that distance from the surface cannot be very strong, espe- cially in soils that are of an adliesive nature. The food, therefore, that is provided for the roots of vines should lie embedded in the soil in the form of a hori- zontal stratum or layer, the top of which should be about six inches, and the bottom not more than two feet, below the surface. Manure so deposited will cause the roots to spread themselves out within such a distance of the surface as will keep them warm and dry, and enable them to receive the cherishing influ- ence of the sun and air. Liquid manure. This is a species of manure that is highly valuable where mimediate effect is required. As the pores which abound in the fibres of the roots of plants are too small to admit of any solid substance passing into them, and can only absorb nutriment when presented to them either in a fluid or gaseous state, liquid manures act with a far greater degree of energy than those of a solid nature, inasmuch as they contain all the soluble parts of manure in such a state as to admit of being taken up by the roots as soon as applied. The most powerful are urvne^ soot-water^ bloody the drainings of dung-heaps^ and soap-suds, Urine^ on account of its saline qualities, is better calculated to promote the fertility of the vine than ON MANURE. 57 any other liquid whatever. It should he used as fresh as possihle, and if applied in the growing season, or betwixt the middle of March and the first of Novem- ber, it should be mixed with an equal quantity of water ; at any other period of the year it may be cast on the border in its natural state. Soot, dissolved in water, in the proportion of one quart of the former to twelve quarts of the latter, and mixed a few days previously to its being used, is an exceedingly strong manure, highly stimulating in its nature, and a great purifier of the soil. Blood, the draimngs of dung-heaps, and soap-suds, should be used as fresh as possible, in order that their good qualities may be preserved entire. They are all valuable manures, and calculated to enrich the soil in a very high degree. To the foregoing may be added, every description of liquid refuse that proceeds from a dwelling-house or human habitation. All such constitute a valuable class of manures, and may, therefore, be applied to a vine border with the greatest advantage. If any be too strong and spirituous, an equal quantity of water should be mixed with them previously to their being used. For the purpose of top^dresshig, and to be forked into the border when requisite, may be named as highly enriching manures, night-soil, fish, stable ma- nure, and the excrements of every description of birds and ariimals. Night-soil is a very stimulating ma- nure, but transient in its effects, which renders it more fit for a top-dressing than to be used as a com- ponent part of the border when first made. If spread on the surface in a thin layer, it will soon dry, and may then be forked in, in a pulverized state. In concluding these remarks on manure, it is neces- sary further to observe, with respect to the application of liquid manures and top-dressings, that care must be taken not to make the surface of the border too rich. An excess of maniu'e deteriorates the flavor of grapes, and is, moreover, injurious to the fertility of a vine, 58 ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. inasmuch as it stimulates the plant too highly, causing thereby an excessive and unnatural growth of wood, which, being formed too rapidly, becomes long-jointed and productive of leaf-buds instead of fruit-buds. Liquid manures and top-dressings, therefore, must be judiciously applied, lest a rank and barren vegetation be induced, in lieu of a healthy and fruitful one. This cautionary remark is the more necessary, as vines are well known to be amongst the grossest feeders in nature ; their roots absorbing with the ap- petite of a glutton every description of liquid refuse that is placed within their reach, however fetid or nauseous it may be. CHAPTER VII. ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. To ripen any of the sorts of grapes cultivated in this country, sufficiently to be used as table fruit, requires the shelter and reflected heat of a wall. The proper height of a wall intended for the train- ing of vines upon, must depend in a great measure on local circumstances. In an unsheltered situation, and an aspect exposed to the injurious influence of west- erly or south-westerly winds, I have never seen fine grapes produced much higher than eight feet from the ground. But, in situations and aspects of an opposite description, no limit to the height of a wall need be assigned, for as fine grapes may be matured at the distance of twenty feet from the ground as at any less height. Grapes, when growing at a less distance than about four feet from the ground, certainly enjoy a considerable increase of reflected heat, particularly if the surface adjoining the wall be paved or covered with ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. 69 Stones, or gravel ; bat, on the other hand, to counter- balance this advantage, if the aspect be east or icest^ the sun will shine longer on the upper part of the wall than on the lower part, in consequence of which the surface of the wall will be found, in general, pretty equally heated in all its parts. But if the aspect be souths the solar rays during the summer will strike the entire surface of the wall at the same instant of time, unless there be some local impediment; and in this aspect, therefore, the lower part of the wall will always enjoy an increased degree of warmth from the reflection of the ground. Hence, grapes growing within two or three feet of the bottom of a wall facing the south, will, in general, ripen from ten days to a fortnight earlier than those growing on the upper part of it. There is a disadvantage, however, in training grapes near the ground, as it respects their remaining on the vine after being ripe. If grapes can be kept perfectly dry, they will hang on the vine, and mi- prove in flavor, for a long tmie after they are ripe ; but if dampness or moisture of any description reach them, the consequences are quickly seen in the decay of the berries. After the middle of October, therefore, it will be found a difiicult matter to preserve grapes that hang within two feet of the ground, on account of the damp exhalations that continually arise from the soil at that period of the year. If walls be built for the express purpose of producing grapes, the most judicious expenditure of the materials will be in the erection of several low walls, not more than six feet high, in preference to a small number of very high walls. For the purposes of pruning and training, and the general management of the vines, walls of this height are far more convenient than those of a greater height ; and if built to run directly north and south, the entire surface of both sides of each wall will be available for the training of the vines ; and as such walls need not be built at a great distance apart, an astonishing quantity of grapes may be thus an- nually grown on a small extent of ground, by the 60 ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. erection of a k\v walls of this description, bnilt parallel to, and not far distant from each other. The best materials for the construction of vine walls are, without doubt, bricks^ as they present a more even surface than can be obtained from walls built of any other description of materials ; and even- ness of surface is a quality that cannot be dispensed with. It is not only necessary for the training of vines with precision, but if the surface of the wall be not smooth and even, the grapes will, at times, be considerably injured, by being blown to and fro by the wind, against the rough and uneven parts of it. Dark-colored flint ivalls are hotter than those built of brick, but this advantage is more than counterbal- anced by their uneven surface. But if the faces of the flints be well hammer-dressed, and the joints of the wall made to run in proper courses, they make a handsome wall, and one that will absorb and retain heat in a greater degree than any other. If from local causes neither bricks nor flints can be procured, stone of any description may be substituted, but the darker the color, and tlic closer the texture, the more will it absorb and retain heat, and repel moisture; and, consequently, the better will it be adapted for the end in view. As a substitute for walls, stout ranges of jmUng^ made of well-seasoned wood, or of the plan Us of old ships, well coated over with paint, are at times erected, but grapes produced in this way are seldom equal to those grown on walls. For the foundatio?i of a vine wall, stone is prefera- ble to bricks, the former being more solid and dura- ble. And if the wall be an outer one, and the soil on the outside of it be of such a description as to render it necessary that the roots of the vines should be prevented from getting into it, the foundation ought to be deep, and cemented firmly together, so as to make it as solid as possible. But if the soil, on each side of the wall, be such as to make it advantageous for the roots to run freely into it, no greater depth ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. 61 need be gone to, nor should any more cement be used in putting the materials together, than is necessary to make the foundation sufficiently strong and firm to support the superstructure. The drier and looser, in- deed, that the materials can be laid together, and the greater number of cavities and interstices that can be left in the foundation, the better adapted will it be to admit the roots of the vines, which delight to ramble amongst such materials, in preference to growing in even the richest soil. Blackening the surface of a wall^ is productive of a considerable increase of heat as long as the sun shines upon it, but during the night, and such part of the day as the surface is in the shade, it will make the Avail colder. This arises from the black-colored sur- face parting with its heat, immediately the sun's rays are withdrawn. With respect, therefore, to walls facing the east or icest^ the surface of which, even in the height of summer, do not receive the solar rays more than one third of every twenty-four hours, the coloring them black will be injurious rather than otherwise, inasmuch as the intensity of the cold in- creases in proportion to the sun's absence. But when the aspect is due south^ or very nearly so, the surface of a wall may be blackened with advantage, as the duration of the sun's absence as compared with his presence, in this aspect, is more equally balanced throughout the summer months; and the increase of heat, therefore, is more than equivalent to that of the cold ; the former being, on a clear day, and when the sun is on the meridian, frequently from ten to twenty degrees more than that of the surface of an unblack- ened wall. Linie-icashing the siu'face of a vine wall every year, will be found very advantageous in keeping it clean, and free from insects and the growth of moss. Newly-built walls may be exempted from this opera- tion during the three or four years after their erec- tion, but in every subsequent year it is almost indis- pensable. When the surlace of a wall is covered with 6 62 ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. the foliage of a vine, the nails used in the training the shoots are necessarily numerous, and these being withdrawn at the autumnal pruning, their holes are quickly taken possession of by various descriptions of insects. If these be suffered to remain unmolested, they will multiply amazingly during the next sum- mer, and in the autumn when the fruit is cut. the bunches will be infested with them to an injurious degree. The nail holes may certainly be filled up with mortar, but this is a tedious operation, and pro- duces an unsightly appearance. I have never found any thing so effectual as a good coating of white- wash, made from new lime, and of a thickish consist- ence. This, by filling up the holes and other vacan- cies, eftectually destroys all the vermin, prevents the growth of moss, and promotes not a little the healthy vegetation of the vines. The face of the Avail will thus be renovated, and made to look as well as when first built, and its pure whiteness will add greatly to the cheerful appearance of the garden. The proper time of the year to perform this operation is at the be- ginning of March, just as the wujter covering of the bud is about to open ; but if the season be forAvard, the last week in February will do better. The vines should be unnailed, and held a little distance from the wall by one person, while another washes its sur- face, after which the branches may be trained, and nailed for the season, or otherwise temporarily so, until that operation can be conveniently performed. If the wash fall on any of the branches, it will not be of the slightest conseqaence, as, though a little un- sightly at first, it will quickly disnppcar at the rising of the sap. Projecting copings^ fixed on vine walls, though at- tended with many advantages, are not without some disadvantages. They are very beneficial in protecting the yoimg shoots of the vines from the efiects of late frosts in the spring, in preserving tlie blossoms from cold dews and heavy rains, and in keeping the grapes m good condition, for a considerable period of time ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. 63 after they have become ripe. They also contribute to prevent the escape of heat from the wall, and are likewise extremely convenient to fasten netting, bun- ting, &c. to, when necessary to protect the frnit from birds and insects. On the other hand, they exchide a portion of light and air, and prevent the dew and in some measure the rain also, from descending on the foliage, and these are very beneficial after the fruit is set, and until it begins to ripen. Nevertheless the ad- vantages of projecting copings decidedly preponderate. If there were no other benefit arising from them, that of protecting the fruit from heavy rains, and thereby keeping it dry and in good condition, for two or three months after it is ripe, would be quite sufiicient to turn the scale at once in their favor. With respect to the width of the projecting part when permanently fixed, that must depend on the aspect and height of the wall. If the latter be less than four feet, and the aspect south, the coping ought not to project at all, as the light and solar heat excluded by it, will be a serious drawback on the healthy vegetation of the vines. But if the wall be four feet high, then the coping may project as many inches, and if this width be increased an inch every foot that the wall increases in height up to twelve feet, the principal advantages arising from the protection which a coping aftbrds, will be secured, in conjunction with the smallest portion of its disadvantages. If the wall therefore be twelve feet high, the coping will project a foot, more than which no coping should project, whatever may be the height of the wall. If the aspect be casi or uwst, the coping must be as narrow as possible, as every inch of projection in these aspects, causes a considerable diminution in the duration of sunshine on the surface of the wall. If the height of the wall be less than six feet, a projection had better be dis- pensed with, but if it reach that height, one of four inches in width may be used, and this may be in- creased half an inch every foot the wall is higher, until it reach the width of twelve inches, which will 64 ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS. give a height of twenty-two feet for the wall. It is seldom that a mere wall reaches this height; hut what- ever height a wall may be, if the width of the coping correspond to these proportions, the advantages de- rived therefrom will be as great as can be obtained in these aspects, without, in an injurious degree, exclud- ing the solar rays. It may be remarked also, that a projection of ^ess than /owr inches in width on a vine wall is calculated to do more harm than good, as the drip will fall on the fruit, which, in any stage of its growth, will greatly injure it. Moveable icooden cojnngs may be used with great advantage, as they produce all the benefit of fixed copings without any of their disadvantages. Copings of this description may project a little more than the proportions above-mentioned, those being intended to apply to fixed copings only. If temporary copings be used, the proper periods of the year for their applica- tion will be as follows : Jirst, from the twenty-first of March to the middle of May; to protect the young shoots from the injurious efllects of late frosts, and from descending cold; — seco7idly ^ irom. the first expanding of the blossoms, until the berries are well set; — and, tMrdly. from the period of the berries becoming trans- parent, and showing symptoms of ripening, until the fruit be all cut from the vines. During this last-men- tioned period, the coping will prove of the greatest advantage in keeping the fruit dry^ for it may be remarked, that as soon as grapes begin to make their last swell, which is indicated by their becoming transparent, not a drop of rain should ever be suffered to fall upon them, if it can possibly be avoided. All the moisture which they stand in need of they will freely imbibe from the atmosphere. In concluding these observations on the construc- tion of walls, it must be further observed, that, in addition to the surface of a vine wall being as smooth as possible, it ought also to be a true perpendicular, and the wall itself to run in a straight line. These qualities are necessary to ensure an equal distribution ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 65 of solar heat on its surface, and also an exemption from the increased action of violent winds, which is sure to be generated in some way or other, if the wall be bnilt otherwise than in a straight line. CHAPTER YIII. ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. Vines are propagated in the open ground, by layers, and by cuttings. By layers. This is the most expeditious method of raising vines, provided the shoots be laid down in 2mts^ and j^lanted out the same summer. But vines raised from shoots laid down in the open ground, seldom ripen their roots well, and are, tlierefore, in- ferior to those raised from cuttings. There is also another objection to this mode of propagating vines. No shoots of a well-established vine can be laid down in a border, without the roots growing amongst those of the parent vine. When the proper season arrives for the removal of the young plant, the ground re- quires to be digged to the depth of eighteen inches, in order to take up its roots as entire as possible. Now, a vine border cannot be digged to this depth, nor indeed anything like it, without very greatly injuring the roots of the parent vine. For this rea- son, therefore, and on account of the roots of young plants so raised, frequently dying off to a considerable extent in the ensuing winter, through not being suffi- ciently ripened, the raising of vines by layers in the open ground may be regarded as an inferior method of propagation. To raise vines by laying down the shoots in pots, to be planted out in the current summer, the follow- 6* 66 ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. ing directions, if observed, will ensure success. For each layer procure a pot of the size of No. 24, and prepare some rich mould, which must be sifted very- fine. Put a large piece of potsherd, or a good-sized oyster shell, over the hole at the bottom; fill the pot about two-thirds full with the mould, and sink it three inches below the surface of the soil. Then take the shoot, the four last buds of which will be required to form the layer, and cut the foitrlh bud cleanly and smoothly out, so that no shoot can after- wards push from it. Bend the shoot carefully down in such a manner, that the second and thh'd buds shall be at least three inches below the surface of the mould when filled in, and the Jlrsi bud even with it, or racher, just peeping out of the mould. Secure the shoot firmly in this position, so that its own force will not raise it up, then fill the pot up with mould to within half an inch of the top, which space must be left for the purpose of holding liquid manure. If the mould settle down afterwards, and leave a greater space than this, more must be added to make good the deficiency. Shoots may be thus laid down any time from the fall of the leaf to the middle of March. The latter period will be quite early enough, as no roots wiU be made before the latter end of Jiuie, or the beginning of July. After the first of April, the mould in the pot must be constantly kepi inolst^ for which purpose supply it as often as necessary with soap-suds or the drainings of a dung-heap. The layer must be separated from the parent vine some- time between the twentieth of xAugust and the first of September, and planted out immediately, with the ball of earth entire, in the situation in which it is intended to remain. Supply it plentifully with liquid manure of the above-mentioned description, through- out the remainder of the season till the fall of the leaf It is not necessary to ring, twist, cut, or pierce the layer, before bending it down in the pot : keeping the mould constantly moist with liquid manin-e, will excite it to root very freely williout any such opera- ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 67 tion. If the foregoing directions be followed, the roots will be four feet long before the winter sets in. It is necessary, however, to state distinctly, that the success of the operation depends entirely on keep- ing the mould in the pot continually moist^ on separat- ing the layer from the parent vine at the time above- mentioned^ on iminediately planting it in the spot where it is to remain^ and in keeping it ivell supplied with liquid manure throughout the remaining part of the season. If the layer were suffered to maintain its union with the parent vine throughout the autumn, the roots would nearly all die away, in consequence of their not having attained to a sufficient degree of maturity to support their own vitality. If the termi- nal bud when it bursts, should show fruit, the latter must be pinched off immediately ; and as the shoot advances in growth, it must, as often as necessary, be tied to a stake, or, what will be much better, trained against the wall. The tendrils should be cut off as soon as they are about four inches long, and the lateral or side shoots kept pinched back to one eye. At the end of the season, as soon as the leaves are shed, the plant must be cut down to the two lower- most buds. It may be remarked, that by laying shoots in this manner, tine grapes may be grown in pots for the purpose of being cut from the parent vine when the fruit is ripe, and produced at table as living plants in full bearing. By cuttings. This is the best method of propaga- ting vines in the open ground, when the plants are either to be raised in the situation, where they are finally to remain, or to be transplanted in tlie ensuing winter, or at any subsequent period. To provide cut- tings to be planted at the proper season, select at the autumnal pruning a sufficient number of shoots of the preceding summer's growth. Choose such as are well-ripened, of a medium size, and moderately sliort- jointed. Cut them into convenient lengths of six or eight buds each, leaving at the ends not loss than a couple of inches of the blank wood for the protection 68 ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. of the terminal buds. Stick these temporary cuttings about nine inches in the ground, in a warm and shel- tered situation, where they will be effectually pro- tected from the severity of the winter. The best time to plant them out, is about the middle of March, but any time from the first of that month to the tenth of April will do very well. When this period arrives, if the young vines about to be raised are afterwards to be transplanted, choose such a situation for the planting of the cuttings, as is well sheltered from the wind, and not too much exposed to the sun. More than six hours sunshine in any day will be injurious rather than beneficial, and with respect to the wind, if the cuttings be not protected from its injurious effects, they will scarcely strike at aU, even in the very best prepared soil. A moderate portion of sun- shine, and effectual shelter from the wind, are abso- lutely necessary to ensure the growth of the cuttings. Previously to planting them, the soil must be well prepared for their reception, by being digged to the depth of eighteen inches, and the earth made very fine. If it be in any degree stift' or heavy, take two- thirds of it entirely away, and supply its place with light rich mould, or road scrapings. For every cut- ting, add half a spit of well rotted dung from an old cucumber bed, and mix the whole well together, making it as fine as possible. This being done, pre- pare the cuttings in the following manner. Cut the shoots into lengths containing two buds each, and let the uppermost buds have an inch of the blank wood remaining beyond them. The extremities of these must be cut in a slanting manner, and the slant sides be opposite to the buds. Take the other ends of the cuttings that are to be inserted in the ground, and cut them transversely 7z/5^ beloio the buds, m\& the cut- tings will be complete. The pruning knife should be very sharp, so that the cuts at the ends may be perfectly smooth. The length of each cutting be- twixt the two buds, should not be less than/b^^r, nor more than six inches, in order that the bottom buds ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 69 may be at such a distance from the surface of the soil, as will best promote their vegetation. The cuttings being thus prepared, must be planted immediately, for which purpose make holes in the ground (about a foot apart each way, if the plants when raised are to be subsequently transplanted) with a stick about the size of the cuttings, and insert the latter, so that the uppermost buds shall be just even with the surface of the ground. Press the mould close round each cutting, in order to prevent the sun and air drying up its juices. If the mould should subsequently sink down, and leave the buds above the surface, more must be added to keep them even with it. After the first of May, care must be taken to keep the soil round the cuttings constantly moist. For this purpose, supply each cutting as often as required, according to the state of the weather, with about a pint of soap-suds ; and continue so to do, until it has formed a communication with the soil, which will soon be rendered apparent by the protrusion of a shoot, and its daily elongation. When the bud bursts, the process of evaporation commences, and if the moisture in the cutting be consumed quicker than the latter can absorb it from the soil, the young leaves turn yellow and die, and the vitality of the cutting will be in danger of being destroyed.^ It is indispen- sable, therefore, that the soil round each cutting should be constantly kept inoist. in order that the latter may absorb sufficient nourishment to supply the bud with food, until, by the emission of roots, it has established a communication with the soil, and is thereby enabled to feed itself. As soon as the cuttings have protrnded shoots about three inches long, and their leaves have a healthy appearance, watering may cease for a time, * If the first shoot that pushes from the cutting should die off, which, at times, it will do, even after it has grown five or six inches in lengtli, the cutting must not on that account he taken up, because another shoot, produced from the bottom bud, will most probably push througli the socket of the decayed one about the middle of the summer, or as soon as the bottom bud becomes sufficiently warmed by the sun to emit roots, and thereby form a communication with the soil. 70 ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. but throughout the summer, when the weather is dry, the young plants should be assisted in their growth by the moderate application of liquid manure. Soap- suds are the best for this purpose, but dung- water Avill do very well, provided it be not too powerful. The surface of the soil round the cuttings should never be allowed to cake or get hard, but should be kept open, and in a fresh and finely-pulverized state, by being as often as necessary, forked lightly up. As the shoots advance in growth, they must be constantly kept staked, or nailed to the wall ; and their tendrils and lateral shoots managed throughout the summer, in the same manner as those of the layers. At the fall of the leaf cut every plant down to the two lower- most buds. CHAPTER IX. ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. Pruning and Training are so closely connected together, and so mutually dependent on each other, that they almost constitute one operation. In pruning a vine, regard must be had to the manner in which it is afterwards to be trained; and in training it, the position of the branches must, in a great measure, be regulated by tl)e mode in which it has previously been pruned. Nevertheless, the two operations are sufficiently distinct to be treated of separately, al- though many observations that will be made will relate as much to the one as to the other. The chief object in pruning a vine is to increase its fertility; which is effected by cutting out the superabundant wood which it annually produces, and adjusting the number and length of the branches that ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. 71 are to remain, to the capacity of the plant for the maturation of its next crop of fruit, and for the pro- duction of future bearing- wood. The necessity for this operation will appear evident when it is consid- ered; Jirst^ that the shoots of a vine which bear fruit one year, never bear any afterwards; — secondly^ that those parts of the shoots that grow in the latter part of the summer, are not sufticiently ripened to produce fruit; — thirdly^ that a great number of shoots, in- cluding those that push from the bases of the buds, and which are thence called lateral or side shoots, are too small, and otherwise unfit to produce fruit; — and, fourthly^ that a vine in vigorous growth and under judicious management, will annually produce a much greater number of buds, that would bear fruit in the following year, if retained, than it can possibly bring to perfection. To get rid, therefore, of all this useless and superabundant wood, the operation of pruning must be resorted to; and as the excess is very great, the pruning knife must be exercised in a correspondingly severe manner, in order to restore the balance betwixt the roots and the branches. From these considerations it follows, that the judicious pruning of a vine is one of the most important points of culture throughout the whole routine of its man- agement. There are three methods of pruning vines, in prac- tice amongst gardeners; namely, long pruning^ spiir- pruning^ and the/rtM oy fruit-tree method. The first mentioned is that which will hereafter be shown to be the most eligible method of pruning a vine, which, with respect to this point of cultiu'e, requires to be treated very differently to every other description of fruit-tree cultivated in this country. Many elaborate directions on this subject have been given by writers on gardening, but these being, in general, based upon no definite principle, cannot with any degree of cer- tainty be reduced to practice. The truth is, that although the fertility of a vine depends in a great measure on the manner in which it is pruned from 72. ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. time to time ; and that for various reasons, the opera- tion may be supposed by those who are unacquainted v/ith the nature of the plant, to be intricate, and to require a considerable portion of skill, yet the con- trary is the fact; for, if the principle on which it is to be performed be carefully kept in view, the whole art of pruning a vine lies in a nut-shell. In order to render this art as clear as possible, the reasons on which it is founded require to be distinctly shown. For this purpose it is necessary to make an important preliminary remark, namely; that the old wood of a vine, or that which has previously borne fruit, is not only of no further use at any subsequent period, but is a postive injury to the fertility of the plant. Tlie truth of this remark depends on the fact, that every branch of a vine that produces no foliage, appropriates for its own support a portion of the juices of the plant that is generated by those branches that do produce foliage. To prove this fact, and to make it as clear as possible, it will be necessary to de- scribe, briefly, and in part, the process by which the life of a vine is sustained, and its parts annually nourished. The iirst movement of the sap in the spring takes place in the branches, and lastly in the roots. The buds, in consequence of tlie increasing temperature of the air, first swell and attract the sap in their vicinity. This fluid having lain dormant, or nearly so, through- out the preceding winter, becomes gradually expanded by the influence of the solar rays, and supplies the buds with nourishment from the parts immediately below them. The vessels which yield this supply, becoming in consequence exhausted, are quickly filled by fluid from the parls below tJicni^ and in this manner the motion continues until it reaches the roots, the grand reservoir of the sap; by which time the solar heat having penetrated the soil, the roots begin to feel its enlivening influence. The whole body of sap then begins to move upwards, and as soon as the quantity propelled is more than sufficient ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. 73 to distend all the vessels in the stem and the branches, the buds begin to elongate and imfold. This takes place in general about the vernal equinox. From this time the fluid becoming more expanded every hour, its ascent is simultaneously increased in force and velocity. The vessels in the branches being filled to repletion, the buds quickly open, and shoots and leaves rapidly protrude. The beginning of May arrives, and by that time the sap being in full motion, all is life, vigor, and activity, from one extremity of the vine to the other. The leaves attract the sap as soon as it reaches their vicinity, and by one of the most wonderful pro- cesses that can be conceived, the result of exquisite organization, elaborate and prepare it, and render it fit for the nourishment of all the parts of the plant. The sap after being thus prepared, is called \he projjer jidce of the plant. It then returns downwards be- twixt the bark and the alburnum, and in its descent is distributed laterally to every part of the plant, until it finally reaches the extremities of the roots. During its descent, a considerable portion of it is expended in the formation of a concentric layer of woody sub- stance betwixt the bark and the wood, on every branch, and also on the stem, which layer becomes the new alburnum. Now it is of importance to remember, that eve?y branch annually requires this new concentric layer; — that this layer is formed from the proper juice pre- pared in the leaves; — and that the thickness or thin- ness of this layer depends on the proportion, which the quantity of proper juice so prepared, bears to the number, length, and size of the branclies, which it has in its descent to cover and feed. If, therefore, the foliage of a vine be strong and vigorous in its growth, and there be no naked branches betwixt the stem and the shoots which produce the foliage; then the proper juice in its descent will de- posit on the stem a thick layer, and will aUo descend into the roots in great quantity. But if there be a 7 74 ON THE PRUiMNG OF VINES. great number of naked branches which the proper juice in its descent has to clothe and nourish; then, having to spread itself over a much greater surface, the new layer will be comparatively a thin one, and the surplus left to enter the roots, 'proportionately lessened in quantity. And, further, if the foliage be weak^ which is invariably indicated by the shoots and leaves being small in size, and sickly in appearance, and the vine contain many naked branches, then the quantity of proper juice prepared in the leaves will be so small, in proportion to the demands which in its descent will be made upon it, that a new layer will with difficulty be formed at all, while but a very small 2^ortion of the proper juice will be left to de- scend into the roots. Again, the formation of this concentric layer being continued from the stem downwards on all the roots, the latter become increased in their solid diameter, in direct proportion to the quantity of the proper juice which they thus receive. Whatever, therefore, con- tributes to diminish this quantity of proper juice, pre- vents in a proportionate degree the growth of the roots ; while on the other hand, whatever causes an increase of it, produces effects precisely opposite. Further, there is no reason to believe that tlie naked branches of a vine, especially such as are more than two or three years old, are in any vv^ay instrumental in increasing the volume of sap in its ascent; the processes of transpiration and absorption which they carry on, being limited in their effects to the preser- vation of their own vitality. From the foregoing observations, therefore, it ap- pears, that every naked branch of a vine, or one that does not directly produce foliage, diminishes the ca- pacity of the plant for the production of young bea.r- ing shoots, inasmuch as it contributes nothing to the growth of the vine, but, on the contrary, requires to be fed annually with a certain portion of the elabor- ated juice of the plant, which would otherwise be ex- pended in the enlargement of the diameter of its stem, ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. 7-5 and thereby the increase of its capacity to mature fruit; and in the extension and multiphcation of its roots. Naked branches, therefore, are consumers, but not producers; or, in other words, drones in the hive. If the vine were cuhivated for the sake of its wood, the case would be different. The growth and extension of large branches, and the increase of their diameters, would then be the legitimate object in view; but when fruit only is sought, and the opera- tion of pruning resorted to, in order to obtain the largest quantity within the smallest possible extent of a given surface of walling, it is obvious that no des- cription of wood should be suffered to remain in a vine but such as directly contributes in some way or other to the production of fruit. It follows, therefore, that as the sole object in view in pruning a vine, is to increase its fertility, the best method to accomjplish this must be that which leaves a sufficient supply of bearing-shoots on the least pos- sible proportionate quantity of old wood. It will be necessary now to examine, which of the three methods of pruning before mentioned, agrees best with the principle here laid down. First, there- fore, of The fan method. Vines pruned according to this method have their branches trained in from their stems in a similar manner to the spokes of a fan. To this method there are several objections, the two prin- cipal of which dixe, first, the shoots in the vicinity of the stem are too near each other to admit of either the wood or fruit being properly matured, and too far distant from each other at their extremities to allow of the fruit being judiciously shaded and protected by the foliage of the adjacent shoots. And, secondly, a vine pruned to be trained in this manner, must of necessity possess several branches radiating as it were from a common centre. These branches cannot con- veniently be trained otherwise than in straight lines, and betwixt a horizontal and a vertical position, which is the most objectionable position that the 76 ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. fruiting shoots of a vine can occupy, because the ascent of the sap is thereby facihtated ; in conse- quence of which all the lowermost buds break very weakly, and some not at all, while the sap flies with such force to the extremities, that scarcely any good bearing-shoots can be made to grow from the vicinity of the stem. This necessarily causes the retention of old naked wood at the autumnal pruning, and this annually increasing in distance from the stem, no species of pruning Avill prevent it occupying in a short time a disproportionate extent of the surface of the wall, and causing all the fruit to be borne at the extremities of the branches. Other objections might be urged, but the foregoing sufficiently show, that without very disadvantageous results, vines cannot be pruned to be trained in the fruit-tree method. Spur pruning. This is the usual method adopted throughout the country in the pruning of vines, but although almost universally practised, it is calculated in a high degree to create a large scaffolding or su- perstructure of old naked wood. A spur may be de- fined to be a shoot, shortened so as to contain not more than /o2/r buds. If a shoot contain ^?;e buds, it cannot with proprietor be called a spur. Spur prun- ing, therefore, is the annual shortening of the fruit- bearing shoots of a vine, so that each shall contain not more than four buds. This being premised, it will be necessary to point out in as distinct a manner as possible the disadvantages attending this method of pruning a vine. Pirst^ every shoot that is sufficiently large to bear fruit, emitted by an established vine, if it be trained at full length throughout the summer, in the manner hereafter mentioned in the chapter on training, will produce at least twenty good well-ripened fruit-buds, and each of these, in the following year, will produce on an average two bunches of grapes, so that a shoot of this description will hediV forty bunches. Now if a shoot be shortened to three buds, which is the num- ber that spurs on an average usually contain, two of ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. 77 these will be almost useless, being but imperfectly formed, and therefore seldom producing fruit. Only the uppermost bud can be depended upon to show fruit, and, consequently, in order to insure the produc- tion of as many bunches of fruit as the single shoot Avill bear, not less than twenty spurs must be pro- vided. This is the parent of many evils. First, these spurs if joined together would be nearly three times the length of a single shoot; the surface of the wall, therefore, which they occupy, will yield only one third of the quantity of fruit produced from that on which the single shoot is trained. Secondly, the latter can be nailed to the wall w'lXh Jive nails, where- as the twenty spurs will require twenty nails, and as many holes will be made in the joints of the wall by driving them in. This evil is not a light one. More- over, a fourfold degree of trouble and lime will be re- quired to nail and unnail these spurs, beyond that necessary for the single shoot. Thirdly, the fruit produced from the latter will be far superior both in size and flavor to that borne by the spurs, for this reason ; — the best grapes are uniformly produced from the fullest-sized and best-ripened buds, and these are gen- erated on the shoots, from the beginning of May to the middle of July, and in moderately vigorous vines, range in order on each shoot, from the fourth bud to about the twentieth ; but if a vine be well established and very vigorous in its growth, it will, under a judi- cious system of pruning, produce on a single shooi, from twenty-five to thirty buds within that space of time. If a shoot be spurred, therefore, to three buds, it will contain yione, and if to/oz/r, only one of these well-ripened buds, all the rest will have been cut off' in the pruning ; or, what is tantamount to it, the shoots will have been pinched back in the early part of the summer, just as the vine was entering its most vigorous state of vegetation, and about to generate the very best description of fruit-buc^s. Secondly, the cutting down of a single shoot in autumn to one or two buds, in order that it may pro- 78 ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. duce in the next summer, a strong and vigorous shoot to be reserved as a fruit-bearer, occasions to the vine only one wound, but the pruning of the three shoots, that have pushed from each of the spurs, will occasion sixty wounds. This is another most serious evil, for though a vine from its inherent nature commands an immense volume of sap, and can, therefore, easily overcome a wound here and there inflicted by the pruning knife, it does not follow that it can overcome these wounds when they are multiplied by scores, and even by hundreds, without making such extraordi- nary efforts as would materially compromise its vital energies. The fact is, that the immense number of wounds caused by spur-pruning, are highly injurious to the health of a vine. If any doubt be entertained on this point, let a shoot that has been spurred five or six years succes- sively be taken, and slit open lengthways, and it will be seen distinctly, that the union which has annually taken place betwixt the older and the younger wood, has not been effected without a considerable effort on the part of the vine. At the points of union the sap vessels will be all crippled, and in some instances the wood will be found to have died back nearly to the centre of the shoot ; and the sap being thus intercepted at so many points in its ascent, flows through the pa- rent limb to the extreme horizontal shoots, thereby generating the most vigorous bearing- wood at a great distance from the stem of the vine. The proper juice of the plant is also, in its descent, very uselessly ex- pended in vainly endeavoring to cover with a new al- burnum these numerous scars made by the pruning knife, around the edges of which it accumulates in considerable quantity. Moreover, although by pruning a vine, its fertility is increased, its existence is no doubt thereby short- ened. The severing of a healthy branch from any tree, is, without doubt, doing an act of violence to it, the effects of which are only overcome by the superior strength of the vegetative powers of its roots. By an- ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. 79 nually making many scores of amputations in a vine, therefore, the energies of the roots become paralyzed, and the eftbrts which nature is compelled to make for self-preservation are such as to affect, to a considera- ble extent, the vital powers of the plant. Thirdly, by adopting the spur system in the pru- ning of a vine, the old branches must be retained, be- cause it is on these that the spurs are formed. These branches being annually lengthened, and new spurs created at their extremities, while the former spurs become longer and more naked every year, the vine in a {^"^ years contains an immense assemblage of old naked limbs, presenting the most unsightly appearance imaginable, and occupying the surface of the wall to the entire exclusion of young bearing-shoots. The disadvantages of retaining old wood having been al- ready pointed out, it is only necessary further to ob- serve, that these disadvantages are produced to the greatest possible extent by spur pruning. For the foregoing reasons, therefore, this method may be considered the most objectionable that can be adopted in the pruning of vines on open walls. It may perhaps be practised with success on vines under glass, and also in warmer climates, because in such cases the sap being far more highly elaborated, will produce fruit from the buds seated at the bases of the spurs. Such spurs, therefore, need not be more than from half an inch to an inch in length, and they may with ease be retained for several successive years without becoming much longer. The results of spur pruning under such circumstances, are very different from those which follow that method, when practised on vines trained on open walls in this country. Long jw lining. 'I'his method consists in obtaining all the fruit of a vine from a few shoots, trained at full length, instead of from a great number of spurs or short shoots. To provide these shoots, the former bearers are cut down to very short spurs at the au- tumnal pruning, and at the same time, a sufficient number of shoots are left at whole length to produce 80 ON THE PRUNING OF VINES. fruit in the following year ; at the succeeding autumn these latter are cut down to very short spurs, and the long shoots that have pushed from the spurs, are trained at whole length as before, and so on annually in alternate succession. This method reconmiends itself by its simplicity; by the old wood of the vine being annually got rid of; by the small number of wounds inflicted in the pruning ; by the clean and handsome appearance of the vine ; and by the great ease with which it is managed, in consequence of its occupying but a small portion of the surface of the wall. These characteristics of long pruning are sufli- cient to make that method superior to every other. As the details of it are given more fully in the two following chapters, it is not necessary to describe it further here. Before entering on the subject of Training, a few general rules may be advantageously laid down for the guidance of the pruner. 1st. — In pruning, always cut upwards, and in a sloping direction. 2d. — Always leave an inch of blank wood beyond the terminal bud, and let the cut be on the opposite side of the bud. 3d. — Prune so as to leave as few wounds as possi- ble, and let the surface of every cut be perfectly smooth. 4th. — Tn cutting out an old branch, prune iteven with the parent limb, that the wound may quickly heal. 5tli. — ^Prune so as to obtain the quantity of fruit desired, on the smallest number of shoots possible. 6th. — Never prune in frosty weather, nor when a frost is expected. 7th. — Never prune in the months of March, April, or May. Prunuig in either of these months causes bleeding, and occasions thereby a wasteful, and an injurious expenditure of sap. 8th. — Let the general autumnal pruning take place as soon after the first of October as the gather- ing of the fruit will permit. Lastly^ use a pruning-knife of the best description, and let it be, if possible, as sharp as a razor. ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. 81 CHAPTER X. ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. To train a vine on the snrface of a wall, is to regu- late the position of its branches, the principal objects of which are, to protect them from the influence of the wind ; to bring them into close contact with the wall, for the purpose of receiving the benefit of its warmth; to spread them at proper distances from each other, that the foliage and fruit may receive the full effect of the sun's rays ; and to retard the motion of the sap, for the purposeof inducing the formation of fruit-buds. The flow of sap, it must be remembered, is always strongest in a vertical direction, and weakest in a Fio-. 1. downward one; thus direction of a, fig. 1. greatest degree of force the roots can propel it if a shoot be trained in the the sap will ascend with the with which the strength of if it be trained in the direc- tion of 6, c, or d, that force will be gradually dimin- ished, as the shoot approaches the horizontal position of d : nevertheless, the difference in the flow of the sap betwixt the shoot at «, and that at d, will not be 82 ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. very great. Immediately, however, the horizontal line d^ is passed, and the shoot depressed below it in the direction of e, the sap receives a considerable check, and the shoots that push from it are proportion- ately weak. If trained in the direction of/, they will be weaker still, and if directly downwards, as at g. the snpply of sap will be barely sufficient to ma- ture the fruit. And further, if the shoot, instead of being trained in a straight line, be bent in a crooked or serpentine manner, the flow of the sap will be additionally retarded. Thus, if it be trained in a ser- pentine manner, resembling the line A, fig. 2, the sap Fis. 2. will flow slower than if trained in a straight line; if like the lines ?*, /;, /, successively slower, the degree of slowness increasing in proportion to the number of bends or curves which the shoot is made to assume. If, therefore, the shoot §•, fig. 1, be closely serpen- tined in the manner of the line /, fig. 2, the sap will be so retarded, that many of the buds will not burst at all. Now, to apply to a practical purpose, this principle of retarding the ascent of the sap, by depressing or serpentining the shoots of a vine, it will be conven- ient to treat of it in reference to winter training and summer training. Winter training. When the shoots are nailed to the wall in the early part of the year, those which are trained at full length as fruit-bearers, are in all ON T^p TRAINING OF VINES. 83 cases to be cut down to the lowermost bud or two at the next autumnal pruning. With respect, therefore, to all such shoots, no greater supply of sap should be permitted to flow into them, than is necessary to mature their fruit, as all above that quantity will be so much nourishment uselessly expended, and taken, indeed, from the young shoots that are to be produced in the current year for future bearers. For example, if the shoots 1, 2, 3, 4, fig. 3, were trained in straight lines, the sap wonld ascend with such force, that many of the lowermost buds would scarcely break at all, the sap passing by them, and accumulating in those at the upper part of the shoots, which would burst with great force, and form very strong shoots; these would rob all the fruit on those below of its due share of nourishment, and also the shoots emitted from the spnrs D; which, to form good bearing- 64 ON THE TRAINING OF J^INES. wood, require as great a supply as the fruiting-shoots. It is true, tiiat by pinching off the extremities of these latter ones in tlie spring, an eye or two above the last bunch of fruit, the sap will be partially kept back, but the ascending current having set in very strongly, it cannot be diverted into the other channels in which it is required, except in a comparatively trifling de- gree. But if, as represented in the above figure, the shoots be trained in a serpentine manner in the early part of the year, before the sap is in motion, it will, in its ascent, be thereby made to flow more equally into all the fruiting-shoots that push from them, and also into those which will be emitted from the spurs D, for future bearers. And by bending the bottom part of the shoots pretty circularly at «, the buds will there burst strongly, and thus a good supply of bear- ing-wood will be obtained close to the arms Z, Z, which is of primary importance ; for, if by injudicious pruning or training, or both combined, the sap have an opportunity of exerting its full force at a distance from the arms, it is sure to embrace it, and the con- sequence is, that blank wood begins immediately to be formed in all directions near the stem, and when that is the case, no method of pruning will ever again procure a supply of bearing-wood at home, short of that of cutting the vine down to a perfect stump. In training the shoots 1, 2, 3, 4, the spaces between them must be regulated by the number of shoots intended to be trained up from the spurs D. Each of these latter will require^z;e inches of clear space on each side of it, and the former nine^ for the fruiting- shoots, as represented by the dotted lines e,/, g^ A, at the shoot 1. These shoots, producing on an average two bunches each, are to be topped one joint beyond the last bunch, as directed in the Calendarial Register, June the 10th. For the foregoing reasons therefore, the method of serpentine training may be considered preferable to every other, being calculated in a greater degree to check the too rapid ascent of the sap, and to make it ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. 85 flow more equally into the fruiting-shoots, and those intended for future bearers. On walls that are much less than five feet high, a portion of the shoots must be trained horizontally. Let fig. 4, represent a wall "•».«» four feet high, and let the face of it be divided into equal parallel portions of twelve inches in height, by the horizontal lines 1, 2, 3, 4; then on each side of the stem, from the arms A, A, may be trained two fruiting-shoots at 2, and 4, and the same number of current year's shoots at the dotted lines above 1, and 3. And in like manner, half that number of shoots may be easily trained on a wall two feet high. The pruning, in these cases, will be precisely the same as if the shoots were trained vertically as in fig. 3. In a similar manner, also, a series of vines may be trained on a high wall, allowing to each a certain parallel space in a horizontal direction, and running the stems to such heights, as the arms of each vine are to be trained. And when the height of a wall exceeds eight or nine feet, this method may be adopted with great advantage; for, by planting the vines sufficiently close to each other, the surface of the wall may, in a very few years, be completely covered with fruit and bearing-wood. But although the mode of training represented by figures 3, and 4, may be considered the most eligible in all cases where the surface of a wall receives the solar rays in an equal degree, yet, as it will frequently happen that some parts of the surface of a wall are, from local causes, either wholly or partially in the 8 86 ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. shade, while the other parts receive the full force of the sun's rays, it is necessary to observe, that in such cases the figures above-mentioned cannot be adhered to without inconvenience; the mode of training, therefore, must in those instances be governed entire- ly by local circumstances. It must be remarked, in reference to the winter training of the shoots, that when they are trained in a horizontal manner, there is not that necessity for serpentining them, as when they are trained vertical- ly ; unless the vegetation of the vine be so extremely vigorous, as to generate wild or long-jointed wood. It may also be further mentioned, that every shoot trained in a serpentine manner, ought to be wholly cut down at the next autumnal pruning, after it has borne fruit, as the further retention of it would produce great confusion in the future training of the shoots. Summer traiiiing. In order that the jvinciples on which this important point of culture is based, may be clearly understood, it will be necessary to point out, as distinctly as possible, the circumstances under which hearing-wood is produced. It must be borne in mind, that the fruit of the vine is produced on shoots of the preceding year's growth, or, in other words, the grapes that are grown in the present year, 1837, are produced from shoots grown in 1836. Now, during the growth of a current year's shoot, all the buds which it developes previously to the month of August will be fruit-buds, provided, firsts that the size of the shoot be large enough for its vessels to convey a sufficient quantity of the juices of the plant, to generate and nourish bunches of fruit in embryo; and, secondly^ that the shoot be duly ex- posed to light, and to the full operation of the sun's rays, on the surface of a wall, having any aspect, south of, and including the eastern and western points of the horizon, by which these juices will be elabo- rated, and the process of the formation of fruit-buds thereby completed. If, therefore, the shoot itself be not sulficiently large to develope fruit-buds, or, if. ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. 87 being so, it be shaded from the sun's rays, during the first protrusion and early formation of them, then, in the following, shoots only will be produced, but no fruit. But, on the contrary, if the shoot, being of a proper fruit-bearing size, be constantly trained on the surface of a wall, having any of the aspects before mentioned, and a clear space of five inches be left on each side of it, by which no adjacent foliage will shade it; then, under these circumstances, every bud (except the first two) produced previously to the month already named, will be a fruit-bud, and v.nU show accordingly, when it unfolds in the following year, one or more bunches of grapes. The cause of the production of fruit-buds, in the latter instance, and of their non-production in the for- mer, may be thus further explained. As the shoot is progressively developed, if it be shaded by any adja- cent foliage, the sap of the shaded part remains in its original thin and watery state, being excluded from the sun's rays, which are necessary to warm and elab- orate it, and thereby prepare it for the development of bunches of fruit in embryo. The sap being thus thin and watery, for want of due exposure to the sun, pushes on with amazing quickness, the shoot elon- gating itself on the surface of the wall, much more rapidly than it otherwise would do, thereby forming long-jointed wood, not one bud of which will be suf- ficiently matured to produce fruit ; the principle of growth having been in full operation, but that of ina- turation having remained dormant. But if the shoot be trained on the wall, and exposed to the full power of the solar rays, in the manner already mentioned, the sap, by being warmed, becomes thickened, or, as it is termed, inspissated, in which state it accumulates at the joints of the shoot, and expends itself in the formation of fruit-buds. In this case the principle of growth and of maturation^ will have been in active cooperation. I have had good grapes produced from buds, form- ed as late as the beginning of September in a fa- 88 ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. vorable season, and also from shoots trained within three inches of each other, as well as on aspects con- siderably north of the eastern and western points of the horizon ; but as there is some degree of uncer- tainty attached in these cases, they are rejected in the rule, lest the practical operation of it, might, in some instances, be productive of disappointment. I know of no exception to this rule, for procuring the development and formation of fruit-buds, except in the case of a vine having been overcropped, or in that of an exceedingly vigorous growth of the shoots, the result of the soil being too highly manured. But the former can never happen, if the quantity of fruit borne by the vine, be proportioned to its capacity of maturation, agreeably to the scale given in the former part of this work ; and the latter can be easily reme- died, by training the shoots in a curved direction. Indeed, the principle of retarding the flow of the sap, by curving or depressing the shoots, may be applied with as much advantage to the training of the sum- mer shoots of a vine, as to that of the shoots grown in the preceding year. For, although by training the summer shoots in the manner before mentioned, all the buds developed will be fruit-buds, and -the num- ber and size of their bunches be in a great measure regulated by the duration and intensity of the solar I'ays they enjoyed during their formation; yet the number and more especially the size of the bunches of fruit produced from a bud. can, without doubt, be further increased by the application of this principle. If a summer shoot, therefore, every time it is nailed throughout the season, be bent or pointed in a differ- ent direction to that in which it grew at the preceding nailing, the vigor of its growth will be checked, and the sap will immediately accumulate, and expend itself in forming round, short jointed wood, and in the de- velopment of the finest description of fruit-buds. This is the key to the production of Icn^ge bunches of fruit, which are not the necessary consequence of very large-sized bearing shoots, but rather of sap that ON THE TRAINING OF VINES. 89 has been acciimulated, and highly elaborated by slow- ness of growth, in combination with full exposure to the sun's rays. Sufficient has now been said to show the principles by which the training of the summer shoots of a vine, that are reserved as future bearers, must be regulated throughout the season. They are simple, and of easy practical application ; and it is evident, that, by con- forming to them, abundant crops of grapes are always at the command of the cultivator. Ample details of the routine of summer training being given in the Calendarial Register, it only re- mains, in closing this chapter, to say a few words in reference to the iiailmg of the shoots to the wall. Linen or cotton shreds are the best that can be used for this purpose, woolen ones being too thick, and also too retentive of moisture. But if woolen shreds be used, those cut from old cloth, are better than those from new, as the latter abound with oil, and are, therefore, pernicious, especially to the summer shoots. Strength, thinness, and openness of texture, are qualities necessary to form a good shred, and these will be found combined in a much greater degree in linen or cotton fabrics, than in those made of wool. The shreds should be from three quarters of an inch, to an inch and a half in breadth, according to the size of the shoot to be nailed, and they should be cut suffi- ciently long to admit of space being left for the shoots freely to swell in, after they are encircled by the shreds. It must not be forgotten, that the covering of portions of the branches with shreds, and thereby preventing them from receiving the benefit of the sun and air, is, to a certain extent, a direct injury to the vegetation of the vine, and is only resorted to because there are no other means by which the branches can be confined in their position on the wall, so as to re- ceive the benefit of its warmth by close contact. Bearing this in mind, therefore, care should be taken 8=^ 90 FIRST FIVE years' MANAGEMENT. never to use more shreds, nor any of a greater breadth, than are necessary to secure the branches in a firm and effectual manner. CHAPTER XI. ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A VINE DURING THE FIRST FIVE YEARS OF ITS GROWTH. As the routine of practice hereafter given in the Calendarial Register, appUes more particularly to vines that are well estabhshed, and in full bearing, it is necessary that some practical directions should be given for the management of young vines, until they arrive at such a state of growth, as to admit of their being subjected to a regular course of pruning and training. Previously, however, to this being done, some observations relative to the tronsplaniing of vines, may, perhaps, not be unacceptable. The best time of the year to transplant a vine is immediately after the fall of the leaf; the longer its removal is postponed after this period, the later in the ensuing spring does it begin to vegetate. The ground in which it is to be planted must be prepared agreeably to the directions given in the chapter on soil. This being done, dig a hole for the reception of the vine, about two feet deep, and of the same width and length ; and if, after the plant is taken up, its roots should prove too long for this, the size of the hole must be increased, as, on no account must the roots be crippled in their extension. Loosen the sides and bottom of the hole, and to the soil that is taken out, add a couple of spits of well-rotted dnng, and mix the whole well together, making it very fine. Put the mould into the hole again to within nine inches of the top, and it will be ready to receive the vine. MANAGEMENT. 91 This must now be carefully taken np, with its roots as entire as possible, and if any of them be bruised, or in any way mjured, they must be pruned back to the sound parts ; fix the vine in the hole with its stem about three inches from the wall, and let the bottom' bud be just even with the surface of the ground. Spread the roots out in a horizontal direction at equal distances from each other, and in a similar manner to the spokes of a fan, and then fill the hole with the mould nearly to the top. Take hold of the stem, and, drawing it upwards a little, give it two or three good shakes with the hand, that the mould may settle well round the roots ; after which, fill up the hole with the remainder of the mould, cut the vine down to the two bottom buds, and the operation will be completed. If the vine have been raised in a pot, the roots will most probably be matted together, in which case they must be freed from the mould, by having it shaken entirely off"; and if any of them should have grown in an adverse direction, so as to cross each other, or in any way that is likely to interfere with their future growth, which is frequently the case with the roots of vines raised in pots, all such must be cut completely out, close to the part whence they have sprung. Also, such of the roots' as are very taper and long, and that appear to have been over-excited in their growth, prune back to within a foot of the stem, or to such parts as appear to be sufficiently strong and healthy to generate new fibres. Transplanting should always be done in dry and still weather, and when the soil works freely. During the removal of a vine, the roots must be carefully kept from exposure to the atmosphere, the influence of which would dry up their tender extremities, and cause them to perish. The better way is, never to take up a young vine about to be transplanted, until its new residence be prepared to receive it, and then to let its removal be effected as quickly as possible. Assuming now that the vine thus transplanted is a 92 FIRST FIVE years' MANAGEMENT. young one, it may be considered equal in its growth to one raised from a layer or cutting in the preceding summer ; and as ample directions have already been given for the management of a vine during its first summer's growth, its future culture will be here taken up at the autumn of the first year, and after it has been cut down to the two lowermost buds, as directed in the chapter on the propagation of vines. First year. Dec. 1st. As long as the weather remains open, the soil round the roots should not be covered over, but as soon as frost comes, a good cover- ing of litter, or of well-rotted stable manure, must be laid over the ground as far as the roots extend ; and if the weather be very severe, it will be better also to cover over the stem, to the depth of five or six inches above the top of it. The young plant being thus well protected from the severity of the winter, may remain in this state till the first of March. Second year. March 1st. Remove the covering and fork up the surface of the ground, to the depth of two or three inches, that the sun and air may freely penetrate it. April 1st. Keep the soil round the roots free from weeds, and the surface of it loose, either by raking or forking it up as often as necessary. May 1st. Now remember, that only a single shoot is permanently to be trained throughout the summer, the object of leaving two buds in the previous autumn, being to provide against the loss of a shoot in case of any accident. As soon, therefore, as the strongest has grown sufliciently to be out of danger of being accidentally rubbed ofi*, the other is to be cut out as hereafter directed. If any other roots have pushed, besides the two principal ones, rub them all off. As soon as the shoots have grown about a foot in length, nail them to the wall. Do this very care- fully, for they are as yet extremely tender. When they have grown about six inches from the last nail- ing, they must again be nailed, and continually kept so, never suffering the tops of the shoot to be blown MANAGEMENT. 93 about by the wind. As the tendrils and lateral shoots successively appear throughout the summer, pinch off the former when they have grown about three or four inches in length, and the latter to an inch beyond the first eye. June 1st. Throughout this month and the two following ones, whenever the ground appears parched through the heat of the weather, give the roots, once a day, about half a gallon of soap-suds or dung-water. Keep the ground free from weeds, and the surface loose and open, by raking or forking it up once a week throughout the summer. July 1st. The young shoots being firmly united to the preceding year's wood, and therefore past all danger of being broken off by any accident, unnail the weaker shoot of the two, and cut it out close to the stem, making the surface of the wound quite smooth and even. The remaining shoot must be kept nailed to the w^all as before directed. Nov. 1st. Cut the vine down to the two lower- most buds, and in the winter, if the weather be frosty, cover the ground over in the same manner as in the preceding winter. Third year. March 1st. Remove the winter cov- ering, and fork up the surface of the ground, and let the subsequent management throughout the season be precisely the same as in the preceding summer. If any fruit be shown, pinch it off immediately it appears. Nov. 1st. The stem of the vine will now be more than two inches in girt, and therefore tico leading shoots are to be permanently retained in the next year. For this purpose, cut the vine down now to the three lowermost buds, thus reserving, as before, one to spare in case of accident. The vine will then resemble fig. 5. The roots being now sufficiently strong to withstand the severity of the weather, will not in future require to be covered. 5*4 FIRST FIVE years' MANAGEMENT. Ficr. 5. \ Fourth year. March 1st. Clean the surface of the ground, and fork it up Hghtly, and let the subse- quent management throughout the season be the same as before, unless directed otherwise. May 1st. As soon as the shoots have attained a sufficient length, nail them carefully to the wall, and rub off all others, if any should have pushed. If fruit be shown, pinch it off as in the preceding year. Jidy 1st. Unnail and cut out the weakest of the three shoots, and train the two remaining ones care- fully during the remainder of the season. September 1st. Pinch off the tops of the shoots. November 1st. As the girt of the stem will not be less now than three inches, the vine may be per- mitted to mature fruit the next year, not exceeding five pounds' weight. For this purpose, cut down the two shoots to the seven loicermost buds each, prune away the remaining portions of the tendrils and dead wood close to the shoots, and cut out, carefully, all the lateral shoots close to the bases of the buds, whence they have sprung. If the outer bark of the stem be decayed, peel it off clean, and then nail the shoots to the wall in a temporary manner. Fifth year. February 1st. As soon after this time as the weather is open, cut out of each shoot, the jirst^ second, fourth^ fifth and sixth buds; then bend the two shoots carefully down, and secure them in a horizontal position, similar to that represented by the shoots Z, Z, fig 6. zk FIRST FIVE years' MANAGEMENT. 95 Ficr. 6. March 1st. Clean the surface of the ground, and fork it up as in the preceding year. May 1st. Train the shoots that push from the shoots 3, and 7, in the manner represented by the dotted hues 1, 2, 3, 4. and if more fruit shows than is equivalent to the weight before-mentioned, the excess must be cut off when the berries are set, as directed in the Calendarial Register, July 15th. Continue the same course of management as in the preceding year, and wlien the roots require watering, they are now sufficiently strong to have applied to them for that purpose, any description of hquid manure that can be most conveniently obtained. September 1st. Pinch off the tops of the shoots, and the sap will then accumulate in the buds. October 1st. As soon after this time as the fruit is gathered, cut back the first and third shoots, to as many buds as may be deemed necessary to produce the quantity of fruit which the vine can mature in the next year ; and the second and fourth shoots to the lowermost bud each. Cut out the lateral shoots and the stumps of the tendrils, as directed in the preceding year, and peel or scrape off all loose and decayed bark ; then nail the shoots temporarily to the wall to protect them throughout the winter. Sixth year. March 1st. Train the t\Vo shoots in the manner represented by S, S, fig. 7, and those 9a FIRST FIVE YEARS MANAGEMENT. Fiff. 7. H I 1 that push from the spurs H, H, train also in a similar form. Clean the surface of the ground, and fork it up as in the preceding year. The Calendarial Reg- ister will now supply the details of the future man- agement. The vine has now assumed the form which it is permanently to retain, and the manner in which it is trained, may be considered as the commencement of a system of alternately fruiting two shoots, and train- ing two at full length for bearing-wood in the follow- ing year; which method may be continued every year without any alteration, until the capacity of the vine is equal to the maturation of more fruit, than can possibly be borne by two single shoots ; which, on an average, may be estimated at sixty pounds' weight annually. Several years must elapse before this will be the case, but when it is, the arms may be easily lengthened by the training in of a shoot at their extremities, and managing it in the same manner MANAGEMENT. 97 as when the arms of the vine were first formed. It is very advisable, however, that the vine should not be suffered to extend itself further on the wall, for in such case the 'bearing-shoots, emitted from the centre, are sure to decline in strength; whereas, by confining the dimensions of the vine to a single arm on each side of the stem, and each arm to the support and nourishment of two branches only, the very best description of bearing-shoots Avill never fail to be generated close at home ; and these, as the vine ad- vances in age, will become prolific almost beyond conception. I have often ripened as many as seven full-sized bunches of grapes on two shoots which have pushed from a single bud, on vines managed in this manner. Indeed, those who have been accus- tomed to permit their vines to cover a large space of Availing, and to possess a great number of branches, can scarcely imagine, how much easier a vine is man- aged, and with what certainty the fruit is increased in quantity, and improA^ed in quality, when it is kept within a small compass on the surface of the wall. Moreover, there cannot be the slightest reason given, why vines should be encouraged to spread over the extent of surface which they usually do, their propagation being so easy, that a Avall, however long or high, may be entirely covered with fruit and bear- ing-wood in the space of six or seven years, provided the vines are planted sufficiently near to each other. The roots of vines do not prejudice each other by running together, but, on the contrary, rather serve to prevent any redundancy of moisture in the soil, by more fully occupying it, and to cause the shoots to be less luxuriant in their growth, than if they enjoyed a more extensive range for food; and this, without doubt, increases their fertility. I have planted vines within eighteen inches of each other, for the purpose of speedily filling a wall ; and they thrive, and produce as fine grapes, as if planted as many yards apart. The distance, therefore, at which vines may be planted from each other, need 9 MANAGEMENT. have but little reference to the space which their roots will occupy in the border, but rather to the surface of the wall, on which the branches are to be trained. A vine trained as represented by fig. 7, will stretch its two arms about five feet in length, and if ten feet in height be set apart for the shoots to be trained on, the whole surface required will be fifty square feet. Now, the annual increase in the girt of the stem of a vine planted in good ground, will be found on an average, after it comes to be fruited regu- larly, to be about half an inch ; which gives an increase in its powers of maturation eqnal to five pounds' weight of fruit; and if sixty pounds be esti- mated as the greatest quantity which can annually be obtained from a vine confined within this space, it will appear, that if a cutting be planted, it will be fifteen or sixteen years before it can be expected to arrive at such a degree of strength, as to be able to mature that quantity of fruit. This space of time is so great, that it seems highly desirable to shorten it. Aud this is easily done by allowing to each vine when first planted no more than half this portion of the surface of the wall, namely, twenty-five square feet for the training of the branches ; and when it has attained such a degree of strength that its shoots cannot be kept within the limits of that space, let every alter- nate vine be cut out. If the wall, therefore, be ten feet high, plant the vines two feet and a half apart, and appropriate to each vine the five lower feet of the surface, and the five upper in alternate succession. To form the stems of those destined for the upper portion of the wall, instead of cutting down the vine in the autumn of the third year of its growth to the three lowermost buds, cut out all the buds on the shoot, to the height of five feet from tlie ground, and select the three next buds, to obtain the two shoots for the arms. And if the wall be seven or eight feet high, plant the vines about three feet and a half apart, and train every alternate one similar to fig. 7, and the others in a horizontal manner, resembhng fig. 4. If WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 99 the summer shoots, during their growth, interfere with each other, the remedy is easy. From the flexibihty of the shoots of the vine, they can be trained in any manner that convenience may dictate ; and the more they are bent and curved about, the more fruitful do they become. It is this property, indeed, that enables the skilful cultivator to cover the face of a wall with fidl crops of grapes, in a much shorter space of time, and with a far greater degree of certainty, than can be done in respect to any other description of fruit. CHAPTER XII. WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. This comprehends the practical details of the man- agement* of a vine, from the bursting of the bud, to the fall of the leaf. April 1st. This is one of the most interesting pe- riods of the year to observe the vine. The plant having been apparently in a state of rest for several months, now begins to awake from its slumber, and the buds will be seen swelling with eagerness to escape from their winter habitation. Examine them all carefully, to see if any are impeded in their growth, in consequence of the shoots having been nailed too * The operations directed in the following Register, to be performed on or about the respective days named, are applicable to a medium aspect, a season moderately favorable to the culture of the vine, and to latitude 5U|° north. In a very favorable aspect, or season, therefore, or in a latitude farther south, the different stages in the growth of the shoots, tfec, of a vine, as indicated in the Register, will occur a little earlier ; while, on the contrary, if the aspect or season be unfavorable, or the latitude be much farther north, they will be found to take place a few days later. It may be remarked, also, that the directions for management are intended to be of general application, and not to refer exclusively to a vine pruned or trained in any particular manner. 100 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. closely to the wall or otherwise. All such buds must be immediately relieved, by cutting the shreds which confine them, or by putting small bits of wood, or other convenient things, betwixt the shoots and the wall, and thereby making a space for the buds to swell in. In dry weather, fork up the border to the depth of a couple of inches, that it may be loose and open, to receive the full benefit of the sun and air. 8th. The buds will now be sufficiently unfolded, to show the extremities of the first bunches of fruit, peeping out betwixt the beautiful crimson edges of the embryo leaves. Look carefully again over all the buds, and if any be confined, and have not sufficient room to push their shoots freely, give them relief im- mediately. 15th. Some of the buds will now be unfolded two or three inches in length, and the leaves, as they increase in size, will part with their variegated tints, and gradually assume their permanent colors. The small buds, which frequently accompany the principal ones, should now be rubbed oflf. 22d. Such shoots as have grown four or five inches in length, will show all the bunches of fruit which they will bear in the current season. Con- tinue to examine the young shoots, to see if any of them are crippled, or obstructed in their growth, and if so, give the necessary relief 29th. If any small or secondary bud sstill remain, rub them off immediately, as they will now impede the growth of the young shoots. If weeds begin to appear in the border, hoe them up, or pull them with the hand, and rake the surface smooth and clean. May 6th. The shoots will now grow rapidly, and the bunches of fruit unfold in quick succession. Con- tinue to look over the former, and to remove anything that may obstruct their growth. 13th. The shoots will now be of sufficient length to be nailed to the wall. With respect to this opera- tion, the rule to be observed, is, never to suffer any shoot to grow more than twelve inches without nail- WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 101 ing it, to protect it from the injurious effects of the wind, and to give it the benefit of the warmth of the wall by close contact. This operation must be per- formed very carefully throughout this month, as the young shoots are extremely tender and brittle. There will be many shoots emitted from different parts of the vine, that will neither show fruit, nor be of a sufficient size to be retained for future bearers. All such must be now rubbed off, unless foliage be re- quired to cover any adjacent bunches of fruit, in which case pinch the tops off at the second or third joint, and they will not then require to be nailed. In managing the vine throughout the season, be careful to observe this general rule ; that every operation in which the shoots, leaves, or fruit are concerned, must be performed when the weather is dry, and after the dew is dissipated in the morning, and before it begins to fall in the evening. 20th. Nail the shoots that show fruit, and that are intended to be cut out at the next autumnal pruning, sufficiently near to each other, to cause their leaves, when they attain their fall size, to form a continued unbroken surface, which will be hereafter of the great- est service in protecting and maturing the fruit. But such shoots as are intended to be trained for future bearers, must have as much of the clear surface of the wall to themselves as possible, never less, indeed, than five inches on each side of every shoot. The whole crop of grapes will have been shown previously to this time. During the last three or four weeks, the leafing of the vine, and the unfolding of the bunches of fruit in rapid succession, will have presented a sight of the most pleasing and gratifying nature. If the cultivator has not during the preced- ing year imposed on the vine the task of ripening a greater quantity of fruit than its strength would per- mit, without encroaching too much on its vital ener- gies ; and has subsequently used the pruning knife in a skilful manner, he will now be rewarded with the prospect of not only an abundant, but most probably 9* 102 ' WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. an overflowing crop. Many shoots will show three bunches of fruit, and here and there, on some, will be found even four. 27th. The shoots will now push so rapidly, as to require almost daily inspection. Nail the future bearers firmly, and if any of them be disposed to grow long-jointed, bend them a little out of their former direction, every time they are nailed; this will soon check their growth, and ensure the develop- ment of full sized fruit-buds. Some of the strongest shoots will, perhaps, grow in an adverse direction to the surface of the wall ; if so, these must be man- aged at the outset, with more than ordinary care. For the purpose of inducing them to grow close to the wall, provide a sufficient number of shreds from twelve to eighteen inches in length, or longer, if re- quired ; and as soon as any shoot which has thus pushed, has attained the length of fifteen, or not more than eighteen inches, put a shred, sufficiently long, carefully round that part of it that is nine or ten inches from the old wood, out of which it has grown, and, drawing it out of its natural position about an inch towards tlie wall, nail it firmly. In the course of two or three days the shoot will have taken a direction towards the wall, it may then have another shred put round it much shorter than the first, and somewhat nearer the extremity of the shoot. Ilepeat this operation two or three days afterwards, if re- quired, and the shoot will then grow close to the sur- face of the wall. The tendrils that push from the footstalks of the bunches of fruit must now be pinched oft'. The lateral or side shoots also, which are now pushing vigorously, must be pinched oft' about an inch beyond the first joint, as soon as they are about four inches in length, but such as are near any bunches of fruit should not be thus topped, till they are about six inches in length, as their foliage will then be of greater use in protecting the fruit. It must be observed, that the lateral shoots are not on any account to be pulled WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 103 oflf, as they are intimately connected with the organi- zation of the buds ; being evidently intended to carry off the superabundant sap generated at the joints of the shoots, and to return to them an increased portion of elaborated juice. June 3d. The tendrils will now grow rapidly, and must, therefore, be attended to without delay. As soon as they are about six inches long, pinch them off to within about half an inch of the shoots. If neg- lected, they will, in a short time, entwine themselves round the adjacent shoots, and cripple them. Keep the surface of the border open, and free from weeds, as before directed. Now, as the comparative size and vigor of the young shoots will be distinctly seen, select for future bearers the largest and most vigorous shoots, and such as are round, and short-jointed, and that are appropri- ately situated nearest to the stem of the vine. Nail all such very firmly to the wall, and, as before directed, suffer no other shoot of any description to be trained within five inches of any one of these. On the care- ful observance of this point of culture depends the cer- tainty of the next year's crop. This is the earliest period that any part of the old wood of the vine can be cut out without the risk of bleeding. If, therefore, too much of the preceding year's wood has been inadvertently nailed in, or if any other cause exist, that may render it necessary to Cake off any of the principal limbs of the vine, they may now be cut out with safety. 10th. As the shoots will now be pushing with the utmost vigor, all such as have fruit on ihem, and that are not intended to be retained for future bearers, must be pinched off about an inch beyond the first joint above the last bunch of fruit. The object in view in doing this, is to prevent, as much as possible, any unnecessary expenditure of sap, and also, to cause it to flow with greater force into the fruit, and the future bearing-shoots. This operation being per- formed, all nailing will now cease, except that re- 104 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER, quired for the future bearers. If any useless shoots are to be found in any part of the vine, rub them off immediately. 17th. The vegetation of the vine being now in its highest vigor, daily inspection will be necessary. The future bearing-shoots being in general upwards of three feet in length, and having full-sized leaves, the wind has a proportionate power over them, and unless kept firmly nailed to the wall, they will be in great danger of being blown down and broken off, if a high wind should arise. To prevent this, nail them hereafter every nine inches of growth, with strong linen or cotton shreds, doubling the edges over, and driving the nails with considerable force through the four thicknesses. Take care, also, to drive the nails on each side of every shoot in alternate succession, so that no two following nails shall be on the same side of any shoot. 24th. The fruit will now be in blossom, and con- tinue so in succession, till the latter part of the next month. During this period, great care must be taken not to touch the bunches, lest this beautiful process of vegetable life be thereby marred, and rendered abor- tive. Keep the border free from weeds, and the sur- face loose and open ; and look over the vine daily, as it will now be pushing in every direction with the greatest vigor. The tendrils, also, will grow with surprising rapid- ity, and quickly curl round, and injure the neiglibor- ing foliage, unless constantly looked after, and pinched off. as before directed. July 1st. The fruit being now in full blossom, will yield a most delightful fragrance. Take care that the bunches be not handled, nor in any way disturbed, till the berries are set. The lateral shoots which were topped some time since will now be sending forth fresh slioots from their terminal buds. Pinch oft' all these succession shoots just above their first joints, as before; and if any WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 105 should hereafter break again, pinch them back in hke manner throughout the season. Pay great attention to the future bearhig-shoots, and nail them firmly, as directed June 17th. 8th. Continue daily inspection, as the A^ne will still grow most vigorously, and if neglected, useless shoots, laterals and tendrils, will speedily appear in all parts of it. The bunches first in blossom will now begin to have their berries set. i5th. Keep the border clear of weeds, by hoeing or forking up the surface, which will admit the sun's rays to pass through it, and thereby warm and cher- ish the surface roots. The blossoming being now nearly over, the berries will be setting in rapid succession. As soon, there- fore, as they have all grown to the size of very small peas, an estimate must be made as near as possible of the weight which the whole crop would ultimately attain if suffered to remain and ripen ; and the excess, if any, above the quantity which the vine can mature, agreeably to the scale given in page 34, must be cut off. This is a most important operation, and one that cannot be delayed without materially compromising the health of the vine. In some instances, the excess perhaps will be but trifling, while in others, it will probably be very great. I have frequently had young vines produce from eighty to a hundred full-sized bunches of grapes each, Avhich, if matured, would have weighed at least sixty pounds ; while their in- dividual strength was not equal to the ripening of more than a fourth part of that quantity. In such cases, three bunches out of every four have been cut off". In reducing the number of bunches, get rid of the smallest, and the ragged and uneven ones, if any, and also all such as hang too far distant from the wall, to have the full benefit of the warmth and re- flection of it ; and select to remain those which are largest in size and berry, taking care that they be dis- tributed over the vine, as equally as possible. Many sorts of grapes frequently produce on the 106 WEEKLY CALENDAPJAL REGISTER. footstalks of the bunches of fruit a small supplemen- tary bunch, consisting of a few grapes at the end of a long slender stalk, constituting a sort of bastard "shoulder." When such an appendage to a bunch is protruded, it should be cut off, as the berries on it seldom come to perfection, while they unproiitably consume a portion of the nourishment destined for the bunch itself. 22d. Now that the bunches have been reduced to their proper number, examine the vine, and see if there be any vacancies in the foliage, through which any of the bunches are exposed to the direct rays of the sun ; and if so, unnail the adjacent shoots, and re- nail them in such positions, as will effectually shade the fruit. If, however, this cannot conveniently be done, put a long narrow shred round the footstalks of such bunches as are thus exposed, and drawing them gently aside, nail them in a position, in which the ad- jacent leaves will shade them. In doing this, take care not to twist or injure the footstalks, nor draw them too far out of their natural direction, which would de- range their functions; as through these very slender, but beautifully constituted organs, must flow the chief part of the nourishment required to bring the fruit to perfection. Observe also, that in no instance should there be more than the thickness of one leaf to shade the fruit. The solar rays being thus transmit- ted through the medium of the leaves, are divested of their scorching elfect, and are also modified in such a manner as to operate most beneficially on the swelling of the berries. Grapes that are exposed to the direct operation of the sun's rays, scarcely ever attain their proper size or flavor; while, on the contrary, the finest and most highly flavored fruit will uniformly be found to hang in close contact with the wall, and to be moderately shaded by the leaves. The leaves, also, not only serve as a chastened medium for the solar rays to pass through, but they prevent, in a con- siderable degree, the heat from escaping from the wall, and, as a necessary consequence, make the tern- WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 107 perature of the air in which the fruit grows, Avarmer than that of the atmosphere. They also protect the fruit from the effects of hail, and from continual and heavy rains ; which, in the latter part of the season, when it is ripe, are advantages that cannot be too highly appreciated. It may therefore be considered as an important, and, indeed, an indispensable point of culture, that all the fruit of a vine ought, from the moment of its coming into blossom till it be ripened and gathered, to be shaded by a surface of continuous single leaves, so that no part of it can be seen by an observer, without pulling them aside. It is true, that the shape of the leaves prevents any species of train- ing, so disposing them, as to present one continued single-leaf surface ; but though this point of perfection cannot be attained, yet the nearer you approach to it, the better the culture will be. 29th. Pay great attention to the future bearing- shoots, which will now be of considerable length, and if not nailed firmly to the wall, will be in danger of being blown down, if a strong wind should arise. If any of them be disposed to grow long-jointed, curve them in the training, which, by compressing the sap vessels, will immediately cause the sap to accumulate, and produce short-jointed wood. Keep laterals, tendrils, and useless shoots of every description, in constant check. The grapes will now be as large as small peas, they must, therefore, be thinned on the bunches without loss of time. For this purpose provide a pair of sharp-pointed scissors, that will cut well at the points ; and at this first thinning, commence with the biuiches that are the most forward in growth, and reduce the number of berries full one half, cutting out all the smallest, and such as are too close together, so that they may be equally distributed on the bunches. And in thinning such sorts as set thickly, or that cluster, care must be taken to reduce the number of berries in the vicinity of the stalks to such an extent, as to admit a free passage for the circulation of tlie 108 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. air directly through the bunches, and for the admis- sion of the solar heat to all the innermost berries. This will be found necessary to ensure an equal de- gree of maturity and flavor to all the berries of a bunch. This thinning of the berries is one of the most ne- cessary, and most beneficial operations, in the whole culture of the vine. No grapes can be produced fit for the table Avithout it. It increases the size of the berries, improves their flavor, hastens the period of their ripenmg, by preventing their clustering, enables a vine to mature a much greater weight of fruit, and counteracts, in a considerable degree, those exhaust- ing effects which the perfecting of it would otherwise produce on the vital energies of the plant. It is a species of pruning, indeed, and may not improperly be called pruning of the fruit, in contradistinction to the pruning of the wood. To form a proper estimate of the advantages of thinning the berries, it must be remembered, that during the spring of the year, and until the fruit has blossomed, and is fairly set, the vine has been emitting its shoots, principally by the aid of sap generated in it during the preceding year. In doing this, its vital energies have not been taxed in the slightest degree ; for, if it had emitted a hundred shoots, and every shoot were a hundred feet long, the vine Avould not only not be weakened by them, but such shoots would form a certain index to its increased strength and vigor, created by a corresponding exten- sion of its roots. But far different is the case with respect to the production of the fruit, the perfecting of which, from the exhaustion it occasions to the vegetative powers of the plant, may be properly de- signated as a task. Other fruit trees are endowed with the faculty of throwing off', to a considerable ex- tent, any excess of fruit which they may show at the commencement of the season, before its size is such as to draw on their vital energies, but no such faculty is possessed by the vine. The absence of this, there- fore, must be remedied by the cultivator, on whose WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 109 knowledge of the extent of the powers of maturation possessed by the vine depends entirely the quality of the crop when perfected. Now, the primary object of every cultivator must undoubtedly be, to obtain every year in succession the most valuable crop possible ; and the qualities that confer value on a crop of grapes, are, first, high flavor ; secondly, large berries ; third- ly, large h^ inches ; and in proportion to the degree in which these three grand requisites are combined, will the crop become really valuable. And, that neither high flavor, nor large-sized berries, can be produced without reducing the number of them on the bunches, will appear evident for the following reasons; — the fruit is perfected chiefly through the influence of the atmosphere, as the secret fluid attracted by it from the wood is comparatively crude in its nature when it enters the berries: being then distributed through the almost innumerable vessels, which are most appropri- ately, and, indeed, most beautifully arranged just within the skins of the berries, it there becomes grad- ually elaborated, by the processes of evaporation and absorption, which are incessantly carried on through the combined agency of light and air, stimulated by the direct rays of the sun. And in proportion to the energy with which these processes are conducted, will the berries increase in size and flavor. To generate an energetic action of these processes, therefore, it is necessary that the entire convex surface of every berry should be exposed to the unimpeded influence of the grand agents above-mentioned; and this cannot be eflectcd without reducing the number of berries on each bunch by the aid of the scissors, to such an ex- tent that they shall not touch each other until fully ripened. Further, it must be borne in mind, that the strength of the vine is not put in requisition in creat- ing the pulp of the berries, but in perfecting the seed. The former is the substance on which the latter feeds ; the number of seeds^ therefore, which the vine has to nourish, constitutes in reality the true measure of its task. And to render the performance of this task 10 110 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. as easy as possible, it is not enough that the bunches be reduced in number, so as to bring the whole crop within a given weight, but it is also equally necessary that the number of berries should be lessened; by which operation, not only is great relief given to the vital powers of the vine during the maturation of the fruit, but the value of the crop becomes thereby doubled, and in many instances quadrupled, in conse- quence of the extraordinary increase in the size and flavor of the berries. August 5th. If the weather be hot and dry, sup- ply tlie border with liquid manure. To prevent this from being, to any extent, lost by evaporation, draw drills about eighteen inches or two feet apart, and a couple of inches deep; and along these pour the ma- nure, holding the spout of the watering-pot, with the nose taken off, close to the bottom of them, that the liquid may not wash the earth into a cream-like con- sistence, in which case it would cake together, and intercept the rays of the sun in passing through the surface to the roots. When sufficient has been pour- ed into one drill, rake the earth over it, and proceed in like manner till the whole border be manured. This operation, which should be done in the latter part of the day as soon as the sun has ceased shining on the border, may, if the state of the weather require it, be repeated every two or three days, from the time the fruit is first set until it becomes ripe, and it will be found very beneficial in promoting the swelling of the berries. 12th. As the berries are now rapidly increasing in size, the thinning of them must be attended to every seven days, and if oftener, the better. This is ren- dered necessary, in consequence of the unequal man- ner in which they sometimes swell. If the berries on any given bunch be thinned, so that the remaining ones are all equal in size, it will generally be found, on inspecting it five or six days afterwards, that many of them have remained, in point of size, stationary; while others have grown perhaps twice as large as WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. Ill when previously thinned. In consequence of this the bunches require frequent examination, in order that all such berries as thus appear, by their inferior size, to have been deprived of their portion of nour- ishment may, as speedily as possible, be cut out. The oftener this is attended to the more rapidly will the remaining berries increase in size, and the finer will be their flavor when ripe. To lay down any rule, as to the number of berries that should be cut out of any bunch of a given weight, is impracticable. I have many times found, that of bunches of the Black Hamburg grape, with the berries well set, I have, from first to last, cut out four out of every ^/;e; while, on other bunches of the same sort having their berries not so thickly set, the diminution has been about three out of Jive^ and sometimes not more than tu'o out of that number. The best general rule that can be given is, that the berries, during the whole pe- riod of their growth, until after they have made their last swell, must never be sufiered to cluster, or to press the sides of each other. 19th. Continue to nail the future bearing-shoots firmly, and keep in constant check all tendrils, and lateral and succession shoots, throughout the remain- ing part of the season. The growth of these w^ill now begin to decrease in vigor, in consequence of the fluids in the vessels of the plant being partially di- verted in their course, and attracted to the fruit. Keep the border clear of weeds, and its surface loose and open, and sufler nothing to be on it, or near it, that can in the slightest degree intercept the rays of the sun. Solar heat is now the grand desideratum. If the atmosphere be dry and arid, or if the weather be windy, evaporation Avill proceed at a prodigious rate, and unless the nights be still and serene, and the dews very copious, the balance betwixt absorption and evaporation will be destroyed. '^I'o supply the waste, therefore, that will be thus occasioned in the juices of the vine during this critical period, let the foliage and fruit be now and then watered after sun- 112 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. set, and also the border, in addition to the appUcation of hquid manure to the latter as before directed. The atmosphere contiguous to the vine will be thereby rendered humid, and thus offer a supply of moisture which the foliage and fruit will quickly and most advantageously absorb. The whole strength of the vine will now be put in requisition by the daily increasing size of the berries. Pay great attention, therefore, to the thinning of them, and use the scissors very freely. Remember, that every berry cut out, leaves its share of nourish- ment to be divided amongst the remaining ones. Leave none but the largest berries, and those as nearly as you can at equal distances from each other on the bunches, bearing in mind, that two of the character- istics of a fine bunch of grapes, are large berries of equal size. 26th. Now, as the period of ripening hastens on, the full benefit of the sun's rays will be of the great- est advantage. Take care, therefore, that no portion of the fruit be shaded by more than the consistence of a single leaf. If through inattention in training the shoots, the leaves should be too crowded in any part, the former must be loosened from the wall, and re- nailed at a proper distance from each other, as the leaves must not on any account be pulled off. Strip- ping ofT the leaves, for the purpose of exposing the fruit to the direct rays of the sun, under the mistaken notion that it will thereby ripen earlier, is a practice that cannot be too strongly condemned. The value of the leaves in protecting the fruit has already been pointed out; it is only necessary, therefore, further to remark, that, as the greater portion of the secretions of the plant is prepared in the leaves, every leaf that" is pulled off, not only greatly injures the vegetation of the vine; but the bud at the base of the footstalk of the loaf, by being deprived of its principle source of nourishment, is crippled in its growth, and otherwise seriously injured in its vitality. Moreover, if a leaf that is growing near to, and on the same shoot as a WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 113 bnnch of frnit, be pulled off, the ripening of the latter will not only be tliereby actiiall)^ retarded, instead of being hastened, but the berries will, in consequence, never attain their proper size or flavor. Bloom on the berries will begin to appear about this time, in consequence of which the bunches must be hereafter handled as lightly as possible, that no more of it may be rnbbed off than can well be avoided. Continue to use the scissors freely in thinning the berries, which must on no account be neglected, as, in a few days, the operation will be of no use. Do not suppose, that, by thus continually reducing the number of the berries, the weight of the bunches will be lessened, for quite the reverse will be the case ; if the thinning be judiciously performed, every bunch will ultimately weigh more than it otherwise would do, were the whole of the berries suffered to remain. The grapes are now, what is technically called "stoning;" that is, the seeds or stones enclosed in the berries, being in the last stage of their growth, are in the act of being perfected; which when com- pleted is immediately followed by a change of the pulp from a state of acidity to one of a sugary sweetness. During this process of stoning, which lasts, in gen- eral, about twenty-eight days, the berries appear to be at a stand in their growth, and do not perceptibly in- crease in size. September 2d. Now pinch off the extremity of every future bearing -shoot, about an inch beyond the last joint, and nail the shoot firmly directly below that joint. This operation, by stopping the sap, causes it to accumulate in the buds, and thereby hastens the maturation of the wood. The sooner, indeed, the future bearers are thus stopped in their growth, the better; but if done before this time, there is danger that the buds will prematurely inirst. As the berries are now about to make their last swell, the thinning of them must be completed. Ex- amine the bunches, therefore, very carefully, and if 10* 11.4 WEEKLY CALENDARTAL REGISTER. you meet with any berries about which a doubt may exist as to whether they ought to be cut out or not, give the vine in all such cases the benefit of that doubt, and cut them out accordingly. Be assured, that by so doing you will ultimately gain both in weight and flavor. 9th. The process of stoning being completed, the grapes will now begin to ripen. This will be first indicated by the skins of the berries becoming in a slight degree transparent, and in black grapes, also, by a beautiful purple tinge appearing on those that are the most forward. As soon as this change takes place, no reduction of the number of berries on a bunch u^ill increase the size of the remainder. They should be finally thinned, therefore, before they begin to swell off, after which, indeed, the bunches should never be handled at all, except for the purpose of cutting out such berries as may from time to time be injured by insects, birds, or otherwise. 16th. As the grapes will now be getting ripe pretty generally, all watering must cease, both of the foliage and the border. A moist atmosphere is the most favorable to the growth of the berries, from the pe- riod of their setting to that of making their last swell, after which, neither the atmosphere nor the soil can be well too dry. Large-sized bunches, or such as weigh not much less than a pound, must now be eased in their position previously to their becoming fully ripe. To do this, unnail each shoot on which a bunch of this description may be hanging, to the extent of about a foot on each side of it. Then, betwixt the shoot and the wall, and near to the footstalk of the bunch, insert a piece of w^ood cut in the shape of a narrow wedge about a couple of inches m length, and an inch and a half in depth at the thick end, or deeper, if the bunch be ve/y large. After which re- nail the shoot, using fresh shreds, as much longer than the former ones, as may be required to give full etfect to the increased distance of the shoot from the WEEKLY CALENDARTAL REGISTER. 115 wall. This precaution is very necessary to be taken with respect to large bunches of grapes, in order that they may hang as perpendicularly as possible, and be thereby prevented from resting their whole weight against the wall, which, when the berries are fully ripe, would cause many of them to be bruised and spoiled. The change which the pulp of the fruit undergoes, at the completion of the ripening process, is highly interesting. It is marked in all bunches that have been properly thinned, by an extraordinary increase in the size of the berries, in a short space of time ; the natural consequence of the sadden expansion of the pulp, arising partly from the seed being perfected, and therefore no longer consuming any portion of it for its nourishment; and partly from the continued action of the solar rays on the full-sized berries. I have frequently had berries of the Black Hamburg sort, swell in size in the course of a few days, from a circumference of two inches to one of three, being an increase of one half 23d. As the nights will now be getting longer than the days, the cold will increase; in consequence of which, the border must not be forked up any more daring the remainder of the season. Keep the sur- face of it, however, free from weeds, and from de- cayed leaves, wliich latter, if suffered to accumulate, will not only intercept the rays of the sun, bat also serve as a harbor for the snails, and these vermin, if not prevented, will do great damage to the frait, es- pecially in showery weather. As the grapes are now rapidly approaching to ma- turity, they will present a sight of the most gratifying description. The beautiful symmetry of the berries, the elegant form of the clusters, and the graceful manner in which they are suspended from the branches, are in strict unison with the delicious flavor of the fruit, and challenge alike our grateful admiration. 30th. Examine the bunches frequently, for the purpose of cutting out injured and decayed berries, 116 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. which, if suffered to remain, will quickly affect all the adjoining ones. The fruit will now, most probably, be attacked by birds and insects ; if so, means must be used to protect it. If a few wide-mouthed bottles containing sugared beer, be hung up in different parts of the vine, great numbers of wasps and flies will be enticed mto them and destroyed. But if these insects be very nu- merous, this will only prove a partial protection. The bunches must be bagged, or the entire vine covered with bunting, or some other fabric of a similar de- scription, and this will, at the same time, protect the fruit from the attacks of birds. If the former mode be resorted to, the best sort of bags that can be used for that purpose, are those made of hair cloth. The texture of these being open, and their fabric stiff, the sides of them stand out at a dis- tance from the berries, and thus a free circulation of air is permitted round the surface of the latter, which has the effect of keeping them dry and in good preservation. If hair cloth bags, however, cannot be procured, crape bags may be used instead; but it must be observed, that, whatever sort may be used, they must be taken off every four or live days, in order to examine the bunches, and to cut out decayed berries, if any should appear. It is necessary, there- fore, that the bags should be made large, that they may be taken off and put on again with ease and facility. If the bunches of fruit, however, be numer- ous, it will be much easier, and better, indeed, to pro- tect the vine with a covering of bunting, or leno, or of some other fabric that is thin, and also open in its texture. But, as the exclusion of air thus occasioned, will operate injuriously with respect to the keeping of the fruit, if the covering be continually kept on, it will be necessary to remove it every night, and replace it in the morning ; or. if it be temporarily nailed to the top of the wall, which is the better way, it can be drawn up, and let down again as circumstances may require. If this be not attended to, it will be found WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 117 that the covering, by exckiding ihe air, will cause the fruit to lose its flavor, and to decay. It must also be mentioned, that rats and mice are very fond of grapes, and that when they attack them they destroy a great quantity in a short space of time. The visits of these vermin, though made generally in the dark, may soon be detected, by laying, in the evening, a linen or other cloth along the border close to the wall, and directly under the fruit, and if it he attacked by them in the night, their dung, dropped while consuming the fruit, will invariably he found on the cloth in the morning. If it should appear that they infest the fruit, prompt means must be taken to destroy them, for they travel with the greatest facility over every braneh of the vine, from one extremity of it to the other, and will, most assuredly, if not pre- vented, speedily devour the whole crop. Amongst the means which may be resorted to, to ensure their destruction, may be employed with advantage the laying of poison on the branches contiguous to the fruit, and also the setting of traps well baited with fresh toasted cheese, and seciu'ed to the wall close to the main branches of the vine, along which it is sup- posed they go, to commit their depredations. October 7th. Continue to remove decayed leaves from the border, and suffer nothing to accumulate on it that can either shade it, or harbor the snails. If these are not prevented, they will soon find hiding places in the vicinity of the wall, and in the night, and also in wet weather, will crawl up the surface of it, and commit great havoc amongst the fruit. To prevent this, the wall should be carefully looked over every three or four days, and when the weather is wet, every day will not be too often. A full-grown shell-snail will destroy a large bunch of grapes in twenty-four hours. This fact will show the necessity of looking sharply after these vermin. Take care not to cut any of the fruit until it be thoroughly ripe. This is so often done, that it de- serves to be mentioned as one of the many capital 118 WEEKLY CALENDAPvIAL REGISTER. errors that are committed, almost universally, in the culture of the vine. There is a certain point of time, when grapes attain their highest degree of maturity, but that is not when they first appear io be ripe, but a considerable period afterwards. There are so many circumstances, however, that influence the ripening of grapes, on open walls, that it is impossible to lay down any rule for determining the precise period, when they will have reached their extreme point of maturity. The season, the soil, the culture, the sort of grape, and, lastly, the aspect, modified as this is by a variety of local circumstances, either accelerate or retard the maturity of the fruit, as they combine favorably or unfavorably. It is seldom, indeed, that all the fruit of a vine becomes ripe at the same period of time. And it is worthy of remark, also, that every bunch of grapes ripens progressively, beginning first at what is called " the shoulders," or that part next to the footstalk, and proceeding downwards to the extremity of the bunch. And so slowly is this pro- cess carried on in backward seasons, and in unfavora- ble aspects, that there is frequently from ten to fifteen days' ditference in the time betwixt the ripening of the shoulders, and that of the extremity of the same bunch of fruit. And if a vine be overcropped to any extent, its vital energies will be exhausted before the process of maturation is completed, in which case, the extremities of the bunches never ripen, but shrivel and decay. Without, therefore, venturing to giA^e any very specific directions with respect to the vintage^ it may be laid down as a good general rule, applicable in most cases, that after the period when all the ber- ries of a bunch of grapes have first become apparently ripe, the bunch ought to remain on the vine a month longer, in order that, by the continued action of the solar rays, the watery portion of tlie pulp may be evaporated, and the sugary portion thereby relatively increased. It is of great importance, also, in gathering the fruit, that it be cut in dry weather, on the warmest WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 119 days that can be selected, and not till after the morn- ing dew has been entirely dissipated. The juice of the grapes is materially concerned in these respects ; for if the weather be very damp and foggy for two or three days in succession, or if a heavy rain continue for twenty-four hours, or longer, the water in the ber- ries will be considerably increased, and their flavor and sweetness proportionately diminished. Such branches of the vine as have no fruit on them, should now, without loss of time, be subjected to the operation of the pruning knife. 14th. In dry weather examine the bunches fre- quently, and carefully cut out all decayed berries. Protect the fruit, also, as fast as it ripens, from the wasps, flies, &c. If the extremities of any of the bunches are not yet ripened, cut them ofl' immediately, as the few berries growing on them will, if suftered to remain, cost the vine a greater effort to mature them, than three or four times the same number has, that are situated near the footstalks. 21st. Keep the border clear of weeds, and as soon as decayed leaves appear on it, remove them imme- diately, and continue so to do until all the fruit be cut. The beneficial effects of shading the fruit with a continuous surface of leaves, will now be distinctly seen. Grapes so protected, will uniformly be found to ripen earlier, to be larger in size, and better fla- vored, and to be covered with a bloom nearly if not quite equal to that on grapes ripened under glass. The leaves«ivill also be of great advantage in keep- ing the friut dry and warm, and in protecting it from the injurious effects of heavy rains, which is of great consequence ; for if the fruit be kept dry. it will re- main on the vine in good condition, and preserve its flavor for a long time yet to come. But if it be ex- posed to the effects of every rainy day and night, all the previous good culture will be lost, and nothing will prevent a great portion of it from perishing, inde- pendently of the consideration, that the remainder 120 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. will be greatly deteriorated in flavor from the eflects of the wet. In gatliering the fruit as it becomes ripe, it will be best to choose first such bunches as hang within two feet of the ground, the berries on these being apt to rot, in consequence of the damp exhalations that now begin to rise from it; and next, all such as are on the upper part of the wall above six feet from the ground, (if the wall reach that height,) these being exposed to the injurious effects of the wind; thus leaving to be gathered last, those bunches that hang from two to six feet from the bottom of the wall. If the wall have a projecting coping, the fruit on it will keep much longer than on a wall that is destitute of such a protection. 28th. The leaves will now begin to fall pretty fast, and where a good collection of vines are planted, the great variety of tints and shades of color of the leaves, in their different stages of decay, will present a pleas- ing object to the eye, and offer to the mind an inter- esting subject of contemplation. The fine dark pur- ple red of the claret grape leaves, contrast charming- ly with the bright yellow shades of the white sweet- water, and the rich vermillion tints of the black mus- cadine. November 4th. As long as any bunches of fruit re- main, they must be examined every three or four days, and ail decayed berries carefully cut out. The wasps and flies that now remain will be too weak to injure the fruit. If covering the vine, there- fore, or bagging the bunches, have been^resorted to, to protect the fruit, it should now be discontinued, and netting substituted in its stead. Nets offer but little obstruction to the free circulation of the air, the benefit of which will now be more than ever neces- sary to keep the fruit dry. In putting the netting on, great care must be taken that the extremities of it are in close contact with the wall, and the body of it a suflicient distance from its surface, that the birds may be prevented from getting inside, or picking the WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. 121 berries through the meshes. To effect this latter object, procure some sticks or bits of lath, about a foot in length, and making the ends smooth, cut a notch or two at one end of each of them. Put the smooth ends against the wall, and the notched ones against the netting, which must be stretched out suffi- ciently far from the wall, to admit of the sticks being perpendicular to the surface of it. Place the cords of the netting in the notches, and the sticks will then keep their position. The netting will thus be in a strain, and at a sufficient distance from the fruit to keep it out of the reach of the birds. These precau- tions will be found necessary, as the delicious flavor of the grapes now makes them an object of intense desire to a numerous class of birds that frequent the garden. These little feathered creatures having been indus- triously engaged, during the preceding part of the year, in rendering the most important services to man. by destroying the larvse of a host of insects that prove destructive to vegetation, now come to enjoy their share of the bounties of Providence; and it would, perhaps, be difficult to prove that their claim is not as well founded as that of the lords of the creation. They waste, however, and spoil so much, in comparison with what they really eat, that no other course can be pursued than that of rejecting their claim altogether. Amongst these claimants, the blue titmouse (torn tit), Parus ccendeus^ will, in gen- eral, be found to be the most persevering. This elegant little bird visits the grapes about the middle of October, and selects the ripest for examination. If the flavor be agreeable, the work of destruction com- mences, but if not, an interval of a week or ten days elapses, when a second examination takes place, and the fruit being then ripe, the banquet begins, by his attacking invariably the finest grapes on the vine, and consuming about a sixth part of each berry, leaving the other five sixths to rot and waste. After this, he never ceases to pay his daily visits, as long as a single 122 WEEKLY CALENDARIAL REGISTER. bunch remains, and the sUghtest chance appears of a possibiUty of getUng at it. As soon as any shoots are divested of their fruit, they should be pruned immediately. 11th. Fall of the leaf. This interesting event takes place in general about this time. In well shel- tered situations, some vines will retain their foliage to the end of this month, but in aspects that are exposed to the effects of the wind, the leaves are generally shed in the early part of it. After the grapes have been deprived of the protec- tion of the leaves, they begin to lose both weight and flavor ; but if the aspect be favorable, and the wall have a projecting coping, they may be preserved in pretty good condition a fortnight or three weeks longer, after which, however, no reliance can be placed on the continuance of their flavor, although, in some instances, when the weather is very favorable, and great care is used in keeping the grapes dry, and in protecting them by proper coverings from the effects of severe frosts, they may be kept on the vine in tolerable preservation till the beginning of Jan- uary. Many methods have been devised to preserve grapes after they have been cut from the vine, but none that I am aware of, have ever proved very ef- fectual. The best of these, however, will be found, I believe, to be that of cutting off" an entire branch of the vine with the fruit upon it, and sealing the cut end with sealing-wax, and then hanging it up in a dry and warm room, in which there is a pretty free circulation of air. The greater quantity of wood that the branch contains behind the last bunch of fruit, the longer will the latter keep ; but it may be remarked, that, with every precaution that can be taken, the fruit may in general be preserved much better by letting it remain on the vine, and protecting it by proper means from the severity of the weather. GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. 123 CHAPTER XIIT. GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. Many reasons of a decisive nature point out the autumn as the proper season for pruning the vine. When, by judicious management, the branches of a vine are kept within a small compass, its vegetative powers become exceedingly vigorous; and the quan- tity of superabundant wood that is necessary to be cut out at the close of every season, being, in gen- eral, very great in proportion to that which is retained, the number of channels for the future ascent of the sap becomes, after the general pruning, proper tionably limited. In consequence of this, the sap acquires, at its rising, a corresponding increase of strength and velocity ; and unless the vine be pruned early in the autumn, in order that the utmost possible period of time may intervene, to harden the extremities and such other parts of the branches as the pruning knife has passed over, previously to the ascent of the sap in the following spring, the sap, at its rising, will burst through the wounds, and the vine^will bleed profusely at all points. To guard against the occur- rence of this very injurious casualty, there is no other way than to prune at the earliest period possible in the autunm. The sooner, also, that the vine is pruned in the fall of the year, the earlier will its buds unfold in the ensuing spring ; the cause of which may be thus explained. The buds, from their first development, are endowed with the power of attracting a sufficient quantity of the juices of the plant, to nourish them, and to promote their growth. But this power, al- though it gradually increases with their growth, is held in subjection throughout the summer, by a simi- lar, but superior power, possessed by the fruit, which in an extraordinary degree diverts the fluids of the 124 GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. plant, and appropriates them to its own growth and maturation. As soon, however, as the fruit is ripened, this power which it previously possessed becomes nearly extinct, and the fluids of the plant are then chiefly appropriated to the nourishment of the buds, and to the growth of the roots and branches. Now, as the great eftbrt of the vine in ripening its fruii is made either before the autumnal equinox, or imme- diately after it, while the sap is yet moving pretty briskly ; if the vine be pruned shortly after that pe- riod, the sap quickly accumulates in the shoots that are retained, and the buds attracting it very power- fully, rapidly advance in their growth and maturation. They thus steal a march, as it were, on their next year's vegetation. But if the •vine be pruned too early^ before the motion of the sap is suflficiently weakened, by the declining power of the sun, the buds then feed themselves to repletion, and prema- turely burst. Hence it follows, that the most advan- tageous period for the general pruning of the vine must, undoubtedly, be that point of time when the sap can be made to accumulate in the buds in such quantity as to increase them to their utmost possible size, without bursting them. And this point of time cannot with safety be considered as having arrived till the first of October. A single branch of a mod- erate-sized vine may be cut out or shortened as early as the middle of September, but the whole vine can- not be pruned, and its entire body of sap thereby sud- denly checked in its motion, before the expiration of that month, without incurring very great risk of bursting the buds, independently, also, of giving to the vital powers of the plant an injurious shock, by performing such a severe operation prematurely. As soon, however, as the month of October commences, and the fruit is cut, the general pruning should be done, and the buds, in consequence, increasing in size by the accumulation of the sap. become thereby endowed with a greater degree of vitality than they would otherwise possess. They are thus enabled to GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. 125 attract the sap at its rising with more power, and consequently to expand themselves earlier than the buds of a vine pruned later in the season ; and this is an advantage not to be estimated lightly in a country where the summers are barely long enough to ripen the fruit. In addition to the foregoing reasons, others will hereafter incidentally appear, in favor of early au- tumnal pruning. In giving directions for the general pruning of the vine, it is scarcely possible to lay down any rules for the guidance of the pruner, except such as are of general application. If the vine has been attended to throughout the summer in the manner directed in the Calendarial Register, there will be comparatively little to do at the autumnal pruning. As vines, how- ever, are managed in a great variety of ways, it ap- pears necessary to give such directions as will apply in a general manner to any vine, whatever may have been the method in which it has been previously pruned and trained. Before doing this, however, a few observations may be made relative to vines that have been suffered to cover a disproportionate extent of walling, and which have, as a necessary consequence, a great number of old, naked, and barren limbs. Vines of this descrip- tion, when their leaves are shed, present a perfect chaos of useless branches, the general appearance of which bids defiance to anything like systematic pruning. To give any directions, therefore, that can be practically followed in the pruning of such vines, is next to impossible; the only course that can be recommended to be adopted, with respect to any vine, that is in this state, is to cut it down to a complete stump. By doing this the fruit will be only sacrificed for one season, for the next year after this operation has been performed, the vine will send forth an abun- dant quantity of the finest description of bearing- shoots, which, in the following year, will produce as much fruit, with only a tenth part of the trouble in 11* 126 GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. the management of it, as could be obtained if the previous course of culture had been continued. There is no other way, indeed, of renovating a vine than this, for no method of pruning that can be adopted will ever get rid of the old blank wood, and procure in its stead a proper supply of bearing-wood within a reasonable distance of the stem. Vines that are cut down in this manner will frequently produce in the following summer very fine bearing-shoots upwards of forty feet long. When it is deemed advisable, therefore, to renew the branches of a vine by thus cutting it down, the best time to perform the operation is the latter part of the month of November. If the stem be short, cut it off about five inches above the ground, but if it be long, leave it of such a height as it is intended to train the future bearing- wood to; remembering, that whatever portion of the naked stem be left, the shoots will in general be emitted from the upper part oi it. As soon as the vine is cut off, sear the wound well with a hot iron, and then seal the surface of it over with sealing-wax, in order to prevent the sap at its rising from bursting through. In the following spring a great number of buds will push, near the top of the stump, and these being allowed to swell sufficiently to show their relative strength, as many of the strongest as are required should be selected to remain, and all the rest rubbed off. The shoots being carefully trained throughout the summer, will present in the autumn an abundant choice for future bearers. DIRECTIONS FOR THE AUTUMNAL PRUNING. 1st. Every nail must be drawn from the wall, and every shred taken off the branches. This will give the vine great relief the shreds having through- out the summer kept those parts of the branches GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. 127 which they have encircled from the beneficial influ- ence of the sun and air. They also become the re- ceptacles of numerous insects, and if woolen shreds have been used, they are very retentive of moisture, and if suffered to remain, would chill the juices of the vine, and thereby retard the vegetation in the spring. In unnailing the branches, care must be taken not to draw all the nails at once, as the former wonld then be left destitute of their necessary support. Unnail a part at a time, therefore, and having pruned that part, renail it in a temporary manner, before any other part of the vine be pruned, and so proceed till the whole be pruned. Observe, that CA^ery nail before it is drawn, must be driven farther into the wall, by a good blow or two on its head with the hammer, in order to disengage it from the mortar ; otherwise, in drawing it out, portions of the mortar which adhere to it will be drawn with it, and the joints of the wall will be thereby defaced and injured. 2d. Ascertain the girt of the stem, and calculate the quantity of fruit which the vine can mature in the following year, agreeably to the scale given in page 33, and, assuming (for the sake of making the opera- tion clear) that the strength of the vine is equal to the maturation of fifty pounds' weight of fruit, the number of buds that it will be advisable to retain, to produce that quantity, will be from ninety to a hun- dred. Now, before selecting the shoots that are to contain this number of buds, means must be taken to provide for a proper supply of future bearing-wood. For this purpose, choose some of the strongest current year's shoots that are situated nearest to the stem of the vine, and at appropriate distances from each other, and cut each of these down to the two lowermost buds. The number of shoots to be thus spurred, must not be less than two, nor need they be more than six. Having thus provided for the supply of fu- ture bearing-wood, proceed in the next place to select the shoots that are to be retained as fruit-bearers. In doing this, remember that good bearing-wood is al- 128 GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. most invariably round and haj^d., of a good size, and short-jobited, with large prominent buds, that are in general rather round at their extremities. Bearing these qualities in mind, choose such shoots as answer this description, and that are situated nearest to the stem, but sufficiently distant from each other to ad- mit of their fruiting shoots being conveniently train- ed in the next summer, without being crowded. Shorten each shoot to such part of it as is sound and hard, retaining as many well-ripened buds as possible. Let the shoots be situated in equal numbers on each of the main branches ; for instance, if the vine con- tain only two arms, similar to figure 3, (page 83,) and four bearing shoots be retained, let two be situ- ated on each arm ; also, let the two shoots on one arm contain the same number of buds, or nearly so, as the two on the other arm. Now count the buds on each shoot, omitting the two bottom ones, and set apart the required number on the fewest shoots possible. Having done this, cut all the other parts of the vine entirely away, retaining only those on which are situ- ated these bearing-shoots and the spurs to produce future bearers; the main object in view, being to get rid of the greatest quantity possible of old ivood. But if any of the shoots that are to be thus cut away, should be favorably situated for the production of bearing-shoots at some future period, leave on all such the lowermost bud ; but with respect to all the rest, cut them out close to their respective parent branches. 3d. Cut out from the bearing-shoots that are re- tained all their lateral shoots close to the bases of the buds, and also the remaining portions of the tendrils and footstalks of the bunches of fruit, (if any,) as well as all excrescences, and every portion of dead wood that remains in the vine. Prune them all smoothly, close to their parent branches, in a clean and work- manlike manner, leaving behind no nnsightly ragged edges or extremities to disfigure the vine. 4th. If any part of the outer bark of the stem or GENERAL AUTUMNAL PRUNING. 129 branches be decayed, which will be easily seen by its loose and ragged appearance, peel or scrape off all such parts with a blunt-edged pocket-knife, taking care not to wound, or in any way injure the live bark. The decayed bark having lost its vitality, and with it its power of resisting and throwing off the rain, becomes so highly retentive of moisture, as to be al- most sopping wet throughout the winter months, es- pecially if several layers of it have been suffered to accumulate. In this state, if permitted to remain, it speedily generates moss, and becomes, also, the recep- tacle of innumerable insects. And it is contrary to every known principle of vegetable life, that a plant like the vine, which is a native of a warm climate, should ever flourish, while its stem and branches are thus encircled with a decayed bandage, covered with moss and saturated with moisture, which constantly chills its juices, and thereby paralyzes the beneficial effects of the sun and air, during a period of the year when they are of the last importance to the health of the plant. The annual removal of the decayed bark, therefore, may be regarded as a point of culture, that tends very greatly to promote the prosperous vegeta- tion of a vine. 5th. The barking of the vine being finished, the whole operation will be completed, and the branches must then be nailed to the wall in a temporary man- ner. In doing this, remember that the wmd has very little power over the naked wood, and that, therefore, a few strong shreds nailed firmly over the branches at proper distances, will be sufficient to protect them. Let the bearing-shoots be nailed on those parts of the wall, where they will receive the greatest portion of the sun's rays, without any regard to the situation which they will subsequently be made to occupy at the winter training. The vine, thus pruned, barked, and nailed, will be in readiness to receive the inffu- ence of the season at the earliest period possible, and will, throughout the winter, present a beautiful ap- pearance of dormant vegetation. 130 WINTER MANAGEMENT. CHAPTER XIV. ON THE WINTER MANAGEMENT OF THE VINE. December 1st. The winter being the proper time- to manure the border, let it now be lightly forked up, and a good coating of inanure laid over it about six inches deep, which will answer the two-fold purpose of enriching the border, and protecting the roots of the vine. It has been already stated, that, after a vine has been planted a few years, its roots will make their way up to the surface, if the border be not dis- turbed by cropping or digging; but it is necessary to observe, that when they are so situated, their tender fibres will inevitably perish, unless protected from severe weather, during the depth of the winter. To prevent this, therefore, and also to keep the roots as warm as possible, the border should be covered over through this month and the two following ones. For this purpose, long stable manure about half made is the most suitable, as, from its spirituous nature, it will keep the soil warmer, and more effectually resist the frost and other unfavorable atmospheric changes, than any other description of manure. If this, how- ever, cannot conveniently be procured, the next best covering is that of dead leaves, which, after they are decomposed, form a vegetable manure of the most fertilizing description. But if these cannot be ob- tained, any of the manures mentioned as fit for top dressing, (page -57,) may be substituted. It must be observed, that, as the roots require to be kept as dry as possible in the winter, liquid manure should be used very sparingly during that period. The roots being thus protected, nothing more is required to be done, till the month of March. March 1st. If the season be forward, the vine must now be permanently trained, but if otherwise, that operation may be performed any time during the next WINTER MANAGEMENT. 131 fortnight. Observe, however, that as soon as the buds have swelled sufficiently to burst the extremities of their winter covering, the vine must be trained im- mediately; for if delayed, the buds will be liable to be rubbed off in bending the shoots, and nailing them in their proper positions. This is the proper time, also, previously to the vine being permanently trained for the season, to white- wash the wall, agreeably to the directions given in page 61. In nailing the shoots in the manner directed in the chapter on Training, use fresh shreds, and be careful not to put any round those parts of the vine, that have been at any previous time covered with shreds. The training being finished, remove the covering from the border, leaving as much of it to remain, as may be advantageously mixed with the soil. Fork up the border, and mix the manure well with it ; after which, rake the surface very smooth and clean. March 21st. As soon after this time as the weather is dry, salt the border. For this purpose procure a gallon of salt for every square rod, and scatter it in the same manner as if it were seed, distributing it as equally as possible over the entire border. Then rake the surface very lightly, in order that the salt may be mixed with the soil. The application of salt to a vine border is productive of the most beneficial eflects. It prevents the growth of weeds, destroys the worms, keeps the surface open and clean, stimulates the growth of the vine, and ultimately enters largely into its constitution. Any substance, indeed, of a saline nature, the roots of vines seize upon with the greatest avidity. If, at the rising of the sap, the vine should bleed at any of the wounds made by pruning, or otheswise, put a piece of moistened bladder round the wounded part, and tie it closely and firmly with strong thread well waxed with beeswax. 132 ON THE PLANTING OF VINES NOTE. [The following chapter has been added to the present edition, for the purpose of promoting the culture of the Vine in the various towns, which are situated in the midland and southern parts of England, the inhabitants of which are not, in general, aware, that that valuable plant may be planted, trained, and fruited against their houses and buildings with nearly as much facility and success as in more favored situations in the country. It is true, that sin- gle vines may already be found growing here and there in most of the towns in the above-mentioned districts, not excepting the metropolis itself; but the method in which they are cultivated, is such, as not only to render them very unsightly appendages to the buildings against which they are trained, but to reward the culti- vator with only a small portion of fruit, at the disproportionate cost of a vast deal of time and trouble. To the necessary conse- quences of such a mode of culture, the fact may, no doubt, be attributed, that the number of vines growing in those situations is, comparatively speaking, so very small ; such examples being much better calculated to deter, than to invite imitation. Vines, however, cultivated agreeably to the directions contained in the foregoing pages, produce, annually, large quantities of fruit, within a small extent of surface, and are, moreover, in any situa- tion, and especially in a public one in a town, exceedingly interest- ing objects to behold in every season of the year. And to the lover of nature, what sight can surpass that of a vine, covered with its beautiful foliage, and laden with its elegant and delicious fruit? Even to those who reside in the country, and are fanniliar with the beauties of the vegetable world, such a sight scarcely ever fails to impart the highest gratification. But to the inhabitants of a town, who seldom participate in any species of horticultural enjoyment, what a source of pleasure would it not be, to witness a portion of the surface of their dw^ellings covered annually with fine crops of grapes? And who can contemplate, throughout the progress of every returning season, the beautiful elaborations of nature in the successive development of the bud, the leaf, the blossom, and the fruit of the vine, without emotions of the purest gratification ? Those, and those only, who are pent up within the precints of a town, and perpetually harassed with the cares of business, the calls of which seldom permit them to quit the busy haunts of their fellow men to catch a glimpse of the beauties of nature,— such only, know how cheering to the feelings is the contemplation of the growth and formation of even the most trifling production of the vegetable kingdom. To all such, therefore, the culture of the vine presents a means of enjoyment of the most gratifying descrip- tion. No other sort of fruit-tree can be planted with the slightest IN PUBLIC THOROUGHFARES. 133 prospect of success in the paved and public streets of a town; but the vine surmounts all obstacles, and thrives in almost every situation, where the hand of man is held out to protect it from injury, and to guide it in its growth by a judicious course of cul- ture. In order, therefore, to facilitate the more general introduction of vines into towns, and to enable such of the inhabitants thereof as possess the requisite local advantages of site and aspect, to plant and cultivate them against their premises, the following ad- ditional directions are given. It may, however, be remarked, that after a vine has become well established in its growth, the pruning, training, and general management of the branches and fruit are the same, whatever may be the situation it may be made to occupy ; but in the planting of vines in the public thorough- fares of towns, and in the culture of them during the first two or three subsequent years, many local contingencies that are inciden- tal to such exposed situations require to be provided for, by the variation of some points of culture from, and the addition of others to the usual routine of management ; and to point out the former and supply the latter, is the object of the ensuing chapter.] CHAPTER XV. ON THE PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT OF VINES IN THE PUBLIC THOROUGHFARES OF TOWNS. As a preliminary remark, it may be mentioned, that that part of a vine whicli intervenes betwixt the roots and the branches, may be considered as the stem^ as a, 6, tig. 8 ; and that part where the stem ceases and Fig. 8. ■-'^ "^^ 12 134 ON THE PLANTING OF VINES the branches commence, may be termed the fruiting point, as 6, fig. 8. It may also be remarked, that it is not of important consequence, to what distance from the ground the stem of a vine extends, and at which the fruiting point commences; whether it be one foot, ten feet, or twenty feet. It is better, without doubt, to have a short stem rather than a long one, because the latter annually requires for its support a greater quantity of the elaborated juice of the plant than the former, but where local circumstances prevent a vine from being trained on a short stem, it must, of neces- sity, be trained on a long one. Vines that are planted against any description of walls that bound public thoroughfares, ought always to have their bearing branches trained at such a height from the ground, as shall put it out of the power of mischievous persons to injure the foliage, or to gather the fruit. For these reasons, a vine that is to be planted in such a situation must, previously to its removal thither, have the full height of its stem already formed. It is necessary, also, that the latter, as soon as the vine is planted, should be protected from injury, by being, up to a sufficient height, en- closed within a permanent covering. A vine, there- fore, that is suitable for this purpose, must have a stem that measures not less than two inches in cir- cumference when removed, w^hich, if growing in good ground, will be the size of one about three years old. In the ordinary course of transplanting, a vine of such a size w^ould be too large, on account of the severe check in its growth which the removal of it would occasion, but in the present case, it is indispensable, for the reasons before-mentioned, that the stem should have attained that size before the vine is transplanted. To procure a vine with a stem of this description already formed, a strong and healthy plant, the prin- cipal shoot of which is not less than seven-eighths of an inch in circumference at the bottom, must be selected hi the nursery one entire season before its removal. It should be growing against a wall sufli- IN PUBLIC THOROUGHFARES. 135 ciently high to admit of its leading shoot being trained as many feet perpendicularly, or nearly so, in the following summer, as it is intended to fix the fruiting point at from the ground, after the vine shall have been transplanted. If a young vine of this size, however, cannot conveniently be procured growing against a wall, one planted in the open ground must be provided in its stead, in which case a strong stake, of the requisite height, must be driven firmly into the ground near to it, to tie the leading shoot to during its growth in the ensuing summer. A vine of this description having been selected, cut it down at the proper time in the autumn to the two lowermost buds, and in the following year let the training and general management of it be the same as described in paragraphs May 1st, and July 1st, pages 92, 93. As soon as the leaves are shed in November, cut the vine back to such a height, as it is intended that the fruiting point shall be fixed at from the ground, after the vine shall have been transplanted. Then, to form, the naked stem, cut out, very cleanly and smoothly, every bud except the two uppermost ones, after which the vine will be in a proper state to be removed, and the sooner that is done the better although any time previously to the middle of Feb- ruary will do, if it cannot conveniently be trans- planted before. Proper directions for transplanting the vine will be found in pages 49 — 50 and 90 — 92 ; to which may be added, that if the situation in which the vine is planted be a very public one, and such as to admit of the possibility of any nuisance being committed on the roots, the following precautions must be adopted. In planting the vine, fix the bottom part of the stem of it within an inch and a half of the wall, and in replacing the surface covering, let it extend to within the same distance of the stem on each side of it, so as to leave a space for the latter to grow in, of about three inches in breadth each way, which will be suffi- ciently large for the stem to swell freely in during the 136 ON THE PLANTING OF VINES first ten years, after which that space can be enlarged as circumstances may require. This being done, the covering, that is hereafter described as necessary to be placed over the stem, must be made to come down at the bottom, in close contact with the surface of the pavement, and to include within it the whole of the space above-mentioned, so that no part of it shall be visible on the outside. Then, round the bottom of the covering, where it meets the pavement, work in a little mortar or cement of some description, so as to prevent the possibihty of any fluid of a destructive nature being introduced to the stem or roots of the vine. These precautions, with respect to vines plant- ed in the public thoroughfares of towns, will be found indispensable, as the roots of them would other- wise be constantly liable to be injured by careless or mischievous persons. As soon as the vine is transplanted, (assuming the site to be an open one, and in a public thoroughfare,) its stem must be protected by a covering being put over it to such a height from the ground as will en- sure its preservation from injury. Perhaps the best description of covering for this purpose will be one made of three slips of wood of the required height, and each about four inches in breadth, and put to- gether so as to form three sides of a square, the sur- face of the wall to be enclosed by them, forming the fourth side. The stem of the vine being enclosed in this covering, the latter must be secured to the wall in such a manner as to admit of its being opened when required, for the purpose of divesting the stem of its decayed bark, which operation ought to be per- formed at the autumn of every third year. If a shoot at any time grow out of the naked stem, it must be rubbed off immediately it appears. As soon as the stem is thus enclosed, it should be nailed firmly to the wall just above the top of the covering, but no fastening of any description should be put round that part of the stem that is within the covering. The vine being thus protected, will not require any further attention during the winter. IN PUBLIC THOROUGHFARES. 137 Throughout the next summer, it must be managed in precisely the same manner as in the preceding summer previously to its removal, and at the fall of the leaf the current year's shoot must be cut back to the three lowermost buds, for the purpose of having Uoo leading shoots permanently retained in the follow- ing year. After the vine has thus been cut down to the three bottom buds, it will correspond to that mentioned in paragraph, Nov. 1st, page 93, and its future manage- ment, therefore, must be agreeable to the directions that follow those given under that date ; the culture, hereafter, being the same as that of a vine trained against a garden-wall. It must, however, be observed, that, as the spare surface on which a vine can conveniently be trained, in the front of any house or other building situated in a public thoroughfare of a town, must necessarily be of a limited height, the shoots had better be annu- ally trained in a horizontal position, as represented by Fig. 4, page 85. Also, if a vine cannot conveniently be planted otherwise than at the end of any side of a building, it cannot, of course, have more than one horizontal branch from which the bearing shoots are to proceed. Only one other contingency remains to be provided for, and that is, where local circimistances render it necessary that a vine should be trained on a different side of a building to that on which it is planted. In such a case, there is a sharp corner to be turned in training, and although this is not a difficult matter to accomplish, yet, to ensure success, it must be man- aged with care, and in a proper manner. The flexibility of the young shoots of vines is well known, but there is only one period in the growth of a shoot during which it can be made to bend round the rectangular corner of a building, and that is, in the autumn or winter immediately following the sum- mer of its first growth and formation. For instance, a green shoot that is emitted from a vine in the spring 12* 138 ON THE PLANTING OF VINES of the present year 1837, will be fully ripe at the fall of the leaf in November; the time, therefore, that in- tervenes betwixt that event and the middle of March in the next year, 1838, is the only period in the exist- ence of that shoot in which it will be sufficiently flex- ible for the purpose above-mentioned. Whenever it becomes necessary, therefore, to train the fruiting branches of a vine on a different side of a building to that on which it is planted, the leading or connecting limb must be trained round the corner (there to re- main permanently), some time during the period of its growth before-mentioned. And in all such cases, this operation had better be performed in the autumn succeeding the first summer's growth of a vine after it has been transplanted, because the shoot to be bent will then be comparatively small and weakly, and consequently much more flexible than the shoot of any subsequent year, after the vine has recovered from the check which its growth has experienced by transplantation. To perform this operation, then, ob- serve the following directions. First, procure a coarse file or rasp, and having fixed on the exact part of the corner of the building round which the shoot is to be trained, file a^mall portion of the edge away, in the form of a segment of a circle, about three quarters of an inch deep, rounding off" the edges of the circular part, so as to make the surface of it, over which the shoot is to be trained, as smooth and as round as possible. The shoot could be bent round the corner without a portion of the latter being thus filed away, but it can be done a great deal easier with it. Secondly^ then take the shoot in both hands, and, in a very gradual and cautious manner, bend it a little at a time, until it is made to assume a suflicient degree of curvature to answer the required purpose. As soon as tiiis is the case, cut out, very smoothly, all the buds that are on the shoot betwixt the stem of the vine and the corner of the building; after which nail that part of the shoot firmly to the wall. Then, IN PUBLIC THOROUGHFARES. 139 laying the shoot in the groove at the corner prepared for it, bend the terminal part of it very slowly and carefully towards the other side of the wall, and when you have got the second bud from the corner within about two inches of the surface of the wall, put a strong shred round the shoot just behind that bud, and nail it to the wall in that position. If it were brought closer to the wall, it would be in dan- ger of snapping asunder. Then cut the shoot back to within an inch of the second bud, leaving, thereby, no more buds than the two already named. The shoots that will proceed from these buds in the fol- lowing summer, can easily be trained, close to the wall in the desired direction ; and at the ensuing winter training, the small portion of the shoot near the corner, may then be brought close to the surface of the wall without danger. Thirdly^ if, notwithstanding these precautions, the shoot should break during the operation, there will yet be some portion of the bark of the inner side of it that will connect the parts together, and this, if managed in the following manner, will ultimately re- unite the broken parts. Take a piece of thick wool- len cloth about six inches long, and four broad, and, binding it firmly round the shoot where it is broken, tie it closely with small packthread at each end, but not in the middle where the breach is. The object of this is to keep the air from the wound, and also the parts moist, which is effected by the bandage being of woolen, the inner folds of which will scarcely ever be dry, even in the hottest weather. If this bandage be put on carefully, the parts will firmly reunite by the close of the next growing season, and it may then be taken off". 140 CATALOGUE OF GRAPES CHAPTER XVI. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF TWELVE SORTS OF GRAPES MOST SUITABLY ADAPTED FOR CULTURE ON OPEN WALLS. 1. Black Hamburgh. Bunches rather large, and handsomely shouldered. Berries hang loosely on the hunches, oval-shaped in general, and when well thin- ned, measure, when ripe, from two inches and a half to three inches and a half in circumference. SJciii rather thick, very nearly black, and if well shaded with leaves, covered with a beautiful blue bloom. Pulp fleshy, sweet, and of a rich vinous flavor. Ripens in a south-eastern aspect, about the middle of October, and may be easily kept on the vine in good preservation till Christmas. As a splendid table-fruit, this is, in every respect, one of the most valuable grapes that can be grown on open walls. It is a prolific bearer, hardy in its na- ture, and, under judicious culture, will ripen with as small a portion of direct solar heat as any grape we have. 2. Black Prince. Bunches large, long, and in general well shouldered. Berries oval, and when well thinned, nearly as large as those of the Black Hamburgh, ^kin rather thick, very dark purple, and covered with a thick blue bloom. Pvlp fleshy, juicy, and well-flavored. Ripens in a south-eastern aspect about the middle of October. This is a very fine grape, and nearly, if not quite, equal to the Black Hamburgh. 3. Esperione. Bmiches and herries closely resem- ble, in size and shape, the Black Hamburgh, ^kin nearly black, and covered with a blue bloom. The jmlp^ which adheres to the skin, is pleasant and well- flavored. The leaves die upon the vine of a rich orange hue. ADAPTED TO OPEN WALLS. 141 The Esperione vine is very hardy, extremely pro- hfic, and ripens its fruit perfectly in any season, how- ever unfavorable. 4. Black Muscadine. Bunches medium sized, and rather long. Berries round. Skin black, and cov- ered with a very thick blue bloom, which gives the bunches a beautiful appearance. Pulp juicy, and, when well ripened, of a good flavor. This is a very prolific bearer, but it requires a good aspect to ripen it perfectly. 5. Miller's Burgundy. Bunches short, thick, and small. Berries small, rather oval, black, and grow very close on the bunches. Skin rather thin, and covered with a blue bloom. Pulp juicy, very sweet, and high-flavored. This is a very hardy and prolific grape, and ripens perfectly in any season. Its leaves, which are very thick, distinguish it from every other sort, being cov- ered on both sides with a hoary down, which, when they are young, is nearly white ; hence it is called the Mi^ller^s grape. 6. Claret Grape. Bunches small and thick. Ber- ries black, small, rather oval, and closely set. Skin rather thick, and generally covered with a bluish bloom. Pulp juicy. Juice of a blood red color, but of a harsh taste unless perfectly ripened. It requires a good aspect. This is a very fine wine grape. Early in the sum- mer, its leaves change to a russet red, and die in the autumn, of a deep purple blood color. 7. Black Frontignan. Bunches small. Berries round, small, and thickly set. Skin black, and cov- ered with a light blue, or violet bloom. Pulp juicy, and of a rich vinous musky flavor. 8. Grizzly Frontignan. Bunches medium sized, with small shoulders. Berries round, and of a light brown color, intermixed with red and yellow. The juice is exceedingly rich, and possesses a high musky perfumed flavor. 9. White Frontignan. Bunches long, and occa- 142 CATALOGUE OF GRAPES sionally shouldered. Berries round, rather large, pretty closely set, of a dull greenish yellow, and cov- ered with a whitish powdery bloom. Pulp juicy, sweet, very rich, with an exquisite musky flavor. The flavor of this and the two preceding grapes is so extremely delicious, that no good vine wall should be without them. They ripen well when the aspect is good, and the soil very dry ; but being thin-skinned, and constitutionally disposed to decay after they be- come fully ripe, they cannot be kept long on the vine ; particularly if the wall against which they are grow- ing be destitute of a projecting coping. 10. White Muscadine. Bunches middle sized, shouldered, and handsomely formed. Berries round, and rather large. Ski7i thin, and if exposed to the direct rays of the sun, acquires, when fully ripe, a yellowish brown color. Pulp juicy, rich, and well- flavored. This is an exceedingly fine grape, and a prolific bearer ; and from its hardy nature, and the certainty with which it ripens in any season, it may be consid- ered as the best white grape that can be grown on open walls. 11. Malmsey Muscadine. This resembles the pre- ceding, except that the berries are smaller, and the bunches not so regularly formed; but the juice is sweeter, and possesses a higher flavor. 12. White Sweetwater. Bunches middle sized. Berries large, round, and grow close upon the bunches. Skin thin, and when exposed to the sun, and fully ripe, pretty thickly set with spots of a light russet color. Pulp very juicy and luscious. This is a delicious grape, but owing to its tender- ness when in blossom, the berries set very unevenly on the branches. If it be desired to have a very early sort, to the preceding may be added the Early Black July^ which, though the bunches and berries are small, and the latter, in general, unevenly set, is a very sweet, and also a well-flavored grape. ADAPTED TO OPEN WALLS. 143 It would be easy to increase this catalogue numeri- cally, if it were necessary, but such a course, if adopted, would only bewilder the cultivator, and ren- der it a difficult matter for him to choose those sorts which experience has proved are most appropriately adapted for culture on open walls. The sorts here enumerated embrace almost every variation in flavor, color, and size of berry that can be perfectly ripened in the open air. ON PLANTING AND MANAGING THE ROOTS GRAPE VINES. ADVERTISEMENT, In submitting to the public the following pages, the author is aware that he is promulgating principles and modes of practice, with reference to the culture of the Vine, that are somewhat at variance with commonly received notions. It may not, therefore, be altogether unnecessary for him to observe, that he has not recommended any point of culture or particular routine of practice, the merits and advantages of which he has not, himself, for years repeatedly and carefully tested. The object which the author has in view in the present publication, is, again to contribute what little assistance he has it in his power to render, towards improving the culture of the Vine, and placing it on a firm and certain basis, by the diffusion of those sound and definite principles, which are the never- failing offspring of carefully acquired experimental knowledsfe. Shirley Vineyard, Southampton, July, 1844. ON PLANTING AND MANAGING THE ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. In the various operations of Practical Horticulture, more especially in the culture of exotic fruits, there are certain fundamental principles established by na- ture, which, if not strictly adhered to by the operator, will render all his eiforts of a doubtful and uncertain issue. One of these leading principles is, that every exotic fruit tree should be placed in, and surrounded by, such atmospheric and terrestrial conditions as it enjoys in its native climate and country. And the closer the approximation be made to these conditions, the nearer to the standard of perfection will the fruit of any respective exotic tree arrive. And these observations apply pre-eminently to the grape vine, in the glass culture of which, in this country, artificial means have been successfully re- sorted to, to surround its branches and fruit with atmospheric conditions similar to those it enjoys in its native country, but no definite or effectual method has hitherto been adopted for conferring on the roots the same advantages. It is the object, therefore, of the following pages, to promulgate a method, of easy practical application, by which this disparity that has heretofore existed will be considerably lessened, by planting the roots of vines in drier and warmer materials than common soil. The grape vine, in whatsoever part of the world it im PLANTING AND MANAGING may be growing, whether in its native country, or on the confines of the torrid zone, or at the extreme hmit of the vinous latitude in either hemisphere, delights most in rocky, stony, or gravelly soils, and it is in soils of this description that grapes are brought to a far higher degree of perfection than in any other de- scription of soil whatever. On examination, the rea- son will be obvious. The vine, from the succulent nature of its shoots while they are yet green, and in the coarse of formation throughout the summer, re- quires during that period a constant supply of mois- ture for the roots to feed upon ; and that particular degree of moisture which has been found by experi- ence to produce in a vine a suitable growth, accom- panied by a healthy and perfect development of its fruit-bearing powers, is always present in soils of the above-mentioned description. And this constant presence of moisture arises from the fact, that frag- ments of rocks, stones, or other similar hard substan- ces, when embedded in the soil, always attract mois- ture to their surfaces, which are therefore, in conse- quence, never dry. Hence the roots of vines delight to ramble in such soils, in preference to all others, be- cause they derive therein a steady, constant, and equa- ble supply of moisture throughout all the variations of the season, as free from excess on the one hand, as from a deficiency on the other. Soils, therefore, that contain the greatest quantity of these materials, so disposed or placed together, whether by nature or art, as to present to the roots of the vine the greatest possible extent of surface within a given space, are precisely those which are adapted for the successful culture of the vine. In the hottest countries of the vinous latitude, soils of this descriprion invariably produce the finest flavor- ed grapes ; and if the roots of vines growing there under such circumstances can procure sufficient nour- ishment to accomplish this, where the temperature is so much higher, and where the expenditure of sap through the medium of the leaves, in consequence of the intensity of the solar rays, is so much greater than ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 149 in this country, how small a quantity of moisture, in proportion, will be necessary to support a vine here, where from the moisture of the air, and other obvious circumstances, the leaves themselves collect a great portion of the nourishment that maintains its vitahty. For it must not be forgotten, that in departing northward from the native country of the vine, the power of the sun gradually diminishes, and the cold- ness of the soil as gradually increases, evaporation is in consequence greatly reduced, and a far less quan- tity of moisture, therefore, is required by the roots in this country to supply the demands of the leaves. It follows, then, that the nearer we approach the north- ern limit of the vinous latitude, the drier ought the soil to be in Avhich the roots of vines are planted. From this general rule, therefore, may be deduced the important fact, that as this limit is many degrees south of Britain, a collection of stones, or of similar substances without any admixture of soil whatever, will form the best border for the roots of vines in this country. This may appear to be scarcely credible, such however is the case; for theory distinctly points it out, and practice amply confirms it. Many years' experience, indeed, has satisfactorily convinced me, that there is scarcely any description of soil in this country that is not naturally too cold, or that does not hold water in suspension too long to be well adapted for the successful culture of the vine. A slight further consideration of the disadvan- tageous difference that exists in the conditions which nature has created for the perfection of the vine in its native country, and those that exist in Britian, will be sufficient to show that a decrease of moisture in the soil, and a consequent increase of dryness and warmth, are absolutely essential, in order to approxi- mate as nearly as possible to the native soil of the vine. The mean annual temperature of Syria, the most favored country of the vine, is about 25" higher than that of England ; and to this very striking difference between the mean annual temperature of the two 13* 150 PLANTING AND MANAGING countries must be added the important fact, that in the latter country there is a much greater disparity be- twixt the summer and winter temperature than in the former. And it is this disparity that operates so pre- judicially in the early forcing of the vine, which, if it be commenced in the winter, will place the branches in the enjoyment of a temperature of at least 70<^, while that of the soil in which the roots are planted will probably not exceed 35^ ! Nor does the soil be- come but little warmer till a late period in the spring, until after the crop of grapes will have been matured, and when it is, therefore, too late for the fruit to de- rive anj benefit from the increased warmth. These disadvantages, with many others that flow from them, acting in combination together, require the utmost skill of the cultivator to parry them off and counteract their injurious effects. But great as the disparity, however, is, that usually exists betwixt the temperature of the branches and the roots of early forced vines, it is considerably in- creased by the prevalent practice of making rich and highly manured borders for the roots to grow in. Previously, however, to any remarks on this head, it may be opportunely observed, that the vegetative power of the vine is wholly distinct from its matura- live power. The latter, which is the power of pro- ducing and perfecting its fruit, cannot exist without the former ; but the former, which is the power of pro- ducing shoots and leaves, can and does exist without the latter. In the native country of the vine, these two powers are by nature equally balanced, but this balance is destroyed in progressing towards the equator on the other hand. Within the tropics the light and heat are too intense for the vegetative power, which cannot therefore exist in sufficient strength to support the maturative power; consequently, grapes cannot be grown there without artificial means being used to reduce and circumscribe the too powerful eftects of the sun. On the other hand, in receding northward ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 151 from the vinons country, a precisely opposite effect takes place. Every degree of latitude in that direc- tion brings with it an increase of the vegetative power, and a decrease of the maturative power. And so great is the disparity betwixt these two powers as they exist in England, that in the southern parts the latter power bears about the same proportion to the former as one does to ten, while in the northern parts, the maturative power becomes wholly extinct, al- though the branches of the vine possess there a vigor- ous growth. If, therefore, the shoots and leaves of a vine planted in this country become so exceedingly strong, as to exist in proportion to its fruit-bearing power in the ratio of ten to one, for what useful purpose, it may be asked, can manure, or anything in the nature of a stimulant to promote growth, be added to the soil in which vines are planted? Not certainly to increase their prolificacy, for it will have a tendency to pro- duce a contrary effect. It is not only in England that vines cannot be made prolific by adding stimulants to the soil in which they grow, but it is the same throughout the whole vinous latitude. In no part of the world can a vine be made to produce a single grape more than it otherwise would do. by the exclu- sive agency of anything added to the soil in the shape of a stimulant, except under the circumstances here- after mentioned. Grapes are the sole creation of solar light and heat. The earth produces the raw material in the form of branches and leaves, but the sun must step in and consolidate the juices, otherwise not a sin- gle grape will be produced. Here, then, is the grand distinction to be made in the effect produced by manuring the roots of vines, according to the latitude in which they grow. Assuming that in all the countries where the vine is indigenous, and which in the northern hemisphere are generally considered to be comprehended betwixt the 25th and 44th degrees of latitude, the two powers of the vine are, as has been already stated (for a little 152 PLANTING AND MANAGING repetition is necessary here for the sake of clearness), equally balanced, that is, that every vine is sufficient- ly strong in its growth to perfect all the grapes it pro- duces; then in all these countries stimulants to the soil may be added to advantage, because any increase in the shoots of a vine there will be followed by a corresponding increase in the quantity of fruit. Passing, however, the southern limit of this district towards The tropic, the light and heat of the sun be- comes too intense for the vine, the shoots and leaves of which are enhausted by excessive perspiration, and cannot, therefore, yield that nourishment which the maturative powers of the plant require. In countries, therefore, where this is the case, manure may be added to the soil with even greater advantage than in the native district of the vine. But as soon as we pass northward of that specific line of demarcation which terminates the northern limit of the indigenous district of the vine, the reverse, as has been already stated, takes place. As the power of the sun becomes progressively weaker, so also does the fruit-bearing powers of the vine, while the growing powers of it progressively increase. And when this is the case, to stimulate the soil in which vines are planted, is to cause an increase of growth, when that growth is already naturally too strong. If, with an increase of growth, a corresponding increase of solar light and heat could by any means be produced, the case would be very different. Then, indeed, the powers of the vine would harmonize together, and the balance betwixt the roots, and the foliage and fruit, be thereby more equally preserved. But as this is impossible, other means than stimulating the growing powers of the vine must be resorted to, to make it become prolific, and those means are to make the best possible use, in every conceivable way. of the solar light and heat that we do possess. To return now to the consideration of the effects of highly manured borders. It must, however, be first remarked, that the preceding observations on the ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 153 effects of manure are intended to apply exclusively to vines cultivated under glass, and not to those trained on the open wall. These latter frequently suffer from adverse contingencies of the season, and are thereby exposed to many drawbacks on their growth ; manure, therefore, of a dry and moderate nature, and of perma- nent duration, such as bones, may be beneficially applied to the soil in which their roots are growing. But the case is very different with vines, the branches of which are trained under glass. The foliage of these never experiences the adverse effects of strong or parching winds, or storms of hail, or long con- tinued drought. The shoots and leaves are so com- pletely under command, that the cultivator can make the vines do almost what he pleases. He can at any time create a temperature that is warm and moist; and this is so congenial to the growing shoots and leaves of vines, that in an atmosphere of this descrip- tion they will almost get their own living without troubling the roots for any nourishment at all. It is a mistaken notion, therefore, to suppose that because a vine is forced^ that is, made to produce its fruit at a contrary period of the year than under natural circum- stances it otherwise would do, it therefore requires a highly manured border for the roots to grow in. Quite the contrary is the case, and yet how universal- ly is this notion acted upon ! The effect of forcing vines under glass is to cause great rapidity of growth in the shoots, and tliis is unfavorable to the formation of good fruit buds. Slowness of growth is the first step towards the pro- duction of good bearing- wood ; and this point should be aimed at by exposing the shoots during their growth to the greatest possible amount of light and heat. These all-powerful agents will check the too rapid growth of the shoots, and thereby produce short-jointed wood ; and this description of wood, in whatever part of the world it may be produced, is always prolific. Some few years since, the author received a bundle 154 PLANTING AND MANAGING of vine cuttings from one of the most celebrated vine- yards in Spain. They were the entire growth of the year, as each had a portion of the preceding year's wood attached to it. The longest shoot measured 8J feet, but the average length was about eight feet. The wood was perfectly cylindrical, and of the closest texture, and almost as hard as heart of oak. The buds were large, prominent, and highly symmet- rical, and stood out in bold relief on the sides of the canes. They were produced so near to each other as to be only If of an inch apart. Now, a correspond- ing shoot produced in this country by an established vine would be about 25 feet in length, and the buds would be on an average, distant from each other be- twixt four and five inches. The shoots produced in these different countries, therefore, would each contain pretty nearly the same number of buds; and the question immediately arises, what was the cause of the great disproportion that existed in the length of these shoots'? Simply, no other than the greater intensity of the light and heat which the Spanish shoots enjoyed over the English shoot. Nature was as long manufacturing 1| of an inch of wood in Spain as she was 4| inches in this country; but then, in the former instance, the bright light of the sun, and the intensity of his rays, would not let the shoot go ahead. Their united influence caused it to linger in its growth, and its watery sap, therefore, was turned into a jelly-like sabstance almost as fast as it was produced, and then fine fruit buds was the natural consequence. And these shoots may be con- sidered as types of all others produced within the vinous latitude. Thus it will be seen that a certain amount of direct solar light and heat will cause slowness of growth in the shoots of a vine, and the consequent production of fine fruit buds ; any point of culture, therefore, that may be followed for the purpose of causing a vine to grow fast, and to compel its shoots to elongate at a railroad pace, is a step taken in the wrong direction, ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 155 and calculated to propuce an opposite effect to that which is intended, and such is the case with rich and highly manured borders, which incite the roots to an unnatural growth, and cause the shoots to elongate at too rapid a rate, thereby producing long-jointed ple- thoric wood, and such a mass of rampant foliage as can with great difficulty be kept within its allotted bounds. AH such borders are at the same time much colder in consequence of the stimulating substances of which they are composed, and the frequent top- dressings they receive, settling down into a solid ad- hesive mass, and thereby increasing the disparity that exists betwixt the temperature of the roots and branches. And it is this disparity that is the prolific source of the mishaps and failures that are so constantly occur- ring with vines under glass, especially with those that are forced early. The colder the soil is in which the roots are planted, the later will it be in spring before they move and yield nourishment to the branches ; and, unless some kind of artificial warmth be given to the roots, they cannot produce new ones, until excited thereto by the influence of the solar rays, and these are not sufficiently powerful for that purpose until a long time after the vernal equinox. The difference in point of time which exists betwixt the period when the buds open, and the shootsof the vine elongate, and that of the emission as new roots, is at all times much greater than is usually supposed. Even vines on the open wall, the roots and branches of which are moved solely by the natural warmth of the sun, generally produce leading shoots three or four feet long before any new roots make their appearance.* * This year (1844) the author had occasion to examine upwards of a thousand young vines (part of his nursery stock) of the respective ages of one, two, and three years, the shoots of which had been growing, although slowly, from the 1st of April until the 1st of July, on which latter day, the examination took place. But notwithstanding a period of three calendar months had intervened, not one of these vines had the slightest appearance of the formation of any new roots. The shoots and leaves had therefore been living during that 156 PLANTING AND MANAGING But with vines forced early under glass, the dispar- ity is surprisingly great. The roots, having no arti- ficial assistance, do not move one minute sooner in the spring, because the branches are made to do so. These latter are produced from, and entirely live on the sap contained in the buds and branches. The first movement of the sap takes place in the upper- most buds; it is there excited and liquified by the heat, the buds then open, and a shoot is the conse- quence. The same process quickly follows with all the other buds downwards; and after the sap of the preceding year's wood is exhausted, the main trunk or stem of the vine becomes affected by the heat, and the moisture stored up in its cells, is, in consequence, gradually melted or liquified, and when in this state it continually sends up nourishment to the parts above ; and if the vine be an established one of some years' growth, it will yield a large supply for even months to come. Indeed, it is the only source of nutriment that the green shoots and leaves have at their com- mand, until the emission of new roots, except that which is presented to them by the moisture of the air by which they are surrounded. The main trunk of the vine being now, therefore, the grand reservoir of supply, the organizable matter deposited in its cells is gradually expended in the elongation of the shoots, and the formation of leaves and fruit. And such is the extraordinary powers of expansion which this matter is endued with, that out of a cubical inch of it nature will create a shoot a dozen feet long, and clothe it with vigorous leaves, and the leaves in their turn will extract from the air as much food as will make that shoot half as long again. From these sources of the branches and leaves of the vine, then, the whole mass of the foliage and also the fruit will derive their nourishment for a long period of time, long period of time, entirely on the sap contained in the buds and the small portion of wood left in, in the preceding year. The unexampled dryness of the spring was, without doubt, the cause of the non-appearance of new roots at so late a period of the season. KOOTS OP aRAPE VINES. 157 while the roots are yet asleep, and have no part nor lot in the matter ; and if the vine should have been forced very early, the grapes will be actually swelled off before the solar heat can have put in motion the sap contained in the roots. Unless, therefore, artifi- cial means be used to make the roots move before their natural time, an early forced vine will present the very singular anomaly of having produced a vast mass of foliage, and a matured crop of grapes before the roots can have contributed anything towards their support. And what are the consequences that result from compelling nature thus to produce foliage and perfect fruit, when her grand agents, light and heat, are com- paratively dormant? Simply these, that if the sap contained in the trunk and branches of the vine be all exhausted in the formation of the fruit and foliage, before that in the roots can come to its assistance and follow up the supply, the fruit is then exposed to the fatal effects of shrivelling, and shanking, and all the other numerous ills that so frequently befal early forced grapes, and the vine itself suffers in conse- quence, what may be very aptly termed, a complete paralytic stroke ! Suflicieut, it is presumed, has now been said to show the necessity of improving the culture of the vine, and placing it on a more certain basis than it is at present with reference to the management of the roots, by surrounding them with such conditions as shall ap- proximate more nearly to those they enjoy when grow- ing indigenously in their native country ; and in doing this the task will be abundantly simple. It has already been remarked that the roots of vines delight to ramble amongst rocks and stones, and sim- ilar substances, and that when vines are planted in soils abounding in these substances, they always pro- duce finer and better flavored grapes, than when planted in any other description of soil. Such being the case, there will be no diliiculty whatever in mak- ing an artificial soil of this nature, which shall be cal- 14 1§B> PLANTING AND MANAGlNlS culated in every respect to produce a very superior growth of the vine. In furtherance of this object, it happens that the best description of materials for the intended purpose can be easily procured, at any time, and almost in any place. These are, broken bricks, lumps of mortar, charcoal, and bo7tes. The three first should be reduced to the size of a hen's egg, or thereabouts. Larger or smaller fragments will do, but when they are about this size they are better calculated to retain the requi- site degree of moisture, in connection with the greatest possible extent of surface. The bricks should not be too hard burnt, because their porosity is thereby les- sened. Old mortar should be preferred to new, when it can be procured. The bones may either be broken into fragments, or deposited whole, and the fresher they are the better. Any description of bones will do, provided they are those ofanimals arrived at maturity, and are, therefore, of a solid and lasting nature. Such as have marrow in them should be broken asunder, that the interior surface may be available to the roots of the vines; and the lighter and more porous the charcoal is, the better will it answer the intended pur- pose. The whole of these materials should be used in equal proportion, measure for measure, and should be well mixed together. But before this is done, the bricks, mortar, and charcoal should be well soaked in urine, and then used immediately. And as these sub- stances convey to the roots of vines an extraordinary supply of nutriment, in a highly concentrated form, a small quantity in bulk, in proportion to that of common soil, will be amply sufficient to support a single vine for a long series of years. The manner in which these materials are to be used, so as to form a bed for the roots of vines, remains now to be explained. One general rule must be first laid down, and that is, that whether they be deposited in an open border, or in the interior of a vhiery, they must be enclosed on all sides within solid brickwork. This is necessary ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 159 to prevent the roots from penetrating into the adjacent cold soil, and also to keep the materials always in a moist state, for which purpose brickwork is admirably adapted, on account of the porosity or power of suc- tion, or absorption of moisture, which bricks are well known to possess. If, therefore, any quantity of the above-mentioned materials be enclosed in brickwork and placed compactly together, and in close contact with the internal surface of the brickwork, the whole body of those materials will, in a short time after they are so placed, become moist, and, once moist, they can never again, at any time afterwards, become dry. They will, therefore, always be in that state which is more suitable to the roots of the vine than any other, namely, always moist, but never ivet. Another general rule also remains now to be men- tioned, which must never be departed from. All vines intended for early forcing should be planted in- side of the vinery. The roots of vines so planted, being enclosed in brickwork, as before directed, are then protected from all the cold agencies of the atmosphere, and are, moreover, in the enjoyment of a much higher tem- perature, in addition to which they receive the benefit of the heated atmosphere of the vinery ; and these are advantages that cannot be estimated too highly. They form, in fact, an integral part of the routine of early forcing, the successful issue of which cannot be depended upon without them. This point being settled, the first step to be taken is to prepare the site for the reception of the mate- rials in which the roots are to be inserted. In doing this, the following directions are to be observed :— 1st. Assuming that a new vinery is about to be erected, excavate the whole area of it to the depth of three feet below the level of the surface, and carry the soil entirely away. 2d. Prepare the bottom for the reception of a floor of brickwork, by making the surface of it quite smooth and level. 160 PLANTING AND MANAGING 3d. Pave the whole area of the bottom with good hard bricks, well jointed together, either with cement or well prepared mortar. 4th. Then lay the foundations of the walls of the vinery on this flooring of brickwork, and carry the walls up liollovj as high as the surface of the adjacent soil, so that the materials about to be enclosed in them shall be protected from the chilling effects of the soil outside, and from any sudden accession of water that may at any time fall thereon. The walls may then be continued solid up to their intended height, although every house intended for the early forcing of grapes ought to have all its exterior walls built hollow from top to bottom. 5th. As the floor of the vinery is to be laid with bricks, the surface of which is to be an inch higher than that of the surrounding soil, provision must be made for the bearing of the sides and ends of such of the paving-bricks as will come in contact with the walls, by having a set-off" in the brickwork of the sides and ends of the walls of not less than an inch in breadth. 6th. Now, as a series of walls are to be run up parallel to the ends of the house, for the flooring- bricks to rest upon, the next step to be taken is to divide the area oi the bottom into as many equal por- tions or breadths as shall be equal to the number of vines intended to be planted. Thus, if the vines are to be planted four feet apart, draw a line from the front to the back, that distance in the clear from one of the end walls, and on this line run up a wall to such a height that the surface of the top of it shall range exactly even with that of the set-off" in the main walls. This cross-wall must be built solid, and in the usual manner, with the bricks laid flat; the breadth of it will, therefore, be about 4J inches, giving a bearing to the flooring-bricks of 2\ inches. Then divide the space thus enclosed, into parallel spaces of the same width as the bricks are long. On all the sides that mark the divisions of ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 161 these spaces, rim up, successively, walls built in a brick-oii-edge manner, the surfaces of the tops of which must range evenly with each other, and also with that of the solid wall already built. These walls will be about 2^ inches thick, and will, there- fore, afford a bearing for the ends of the flooring- bricks of IJ inch. These walls, it must be observed, are not to be built solid, but in what is called a pigeon-holed manner, that is, with open spaces left at regular distances in the brick-work. When these brick-on-edge walls are finished, one compartment for the reception of a single vine will be complete, as far as the walls are concerned ; and all the remaining area of the bottom of the house is to be occupied by walls built up in the same manner, and enclosing a similar space within each compartment. The solid walls are for the purpose of keeping the roots of the vines separate from each other, and the intermediate walls have open spaces left in them, to permit the roots to ramble freely throughout the entire mass of materials deposited within each compartment. The roots of each vine being thus kept separately, any vine can be taken up, and removed, if circumstances should at any time render it necessary, without dis- turbing the roots of the other vmes. 7th. The cross-walls being all finished, they had better be left for the space of three or four days for the brickwork to become dry and firmly set, after which, the materials, being prepared in the manner already mentioned, may be deposited in the spaces betwixt the walls. They should be filled in by the hand, in moderate quantities at a time, and placed carefully and com- pactly together, clear up to the tops of the walls, so that the under-sides of the flooring-bricks, when laid, may be in close contact with them. 8th. The materials being thus deposited, the floor may then be laid down ; and this is to be done with good hard bricks, of the very best description, and, with the exception about to be mentioned, jointed 14^ 162 PLANTING AND MANAGING together with well-tempered mortar, taking care that the johits be struck neatly, and in a workmanlike manner. The bricks are, of course, to be laid length- wise, with their sides parallel to the back of the house, and their ends will then rest on the cross- walls, for which purpose they are expressly built. Now it must be particularly observed that that row or course of bricks that runs from the front of the house to the back, which is the centre row of each compartment, and under which course a vine is to have its roots planted, is not, when put down, to be cemented with mortar or anything else, but laid edge to edge, and fitted in closely, without any joints being made, other than those which the bricks themselves make, so that they can easily be taken up, and laid down again, at any time when it may be thought necessary, for the purpose of increasing the moisture of the bed of materials, by adding water or liquid manure. The whole llocr might, indeed, be laid in this manner, without any of the joints of the bricks being cemented, but this plan would be very injurious to the roots, for the following reason : — soon after the roots begin to traverse the bed of materials, a great number of them will ramble upwards until they reach the under surface of the brick flooring, being attracted thereto by the warmth of the atmosphere of the house, and also by solar influence. When the roots once get there, they will quickly- multiply by thousands, and feed on the under surface of the bricks of the floor, because it will be warmer and moister than any other part of their bed. The increased moisture of the flooring bricks will be caused by those copious sprinklings on the floor of the house, which are so advantageously given to vines under glass, from the time of the setting of the fruit, imtil the berries are about to swell ofl', and which, by creating a moist atmosphere at night, enable the fruit and foliage to absorb that additional nourish- ment, which they stand so much in need of at this particular period of their growth. A considerable ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 163 portion of the water thus sprinkled on the floor, will find its way down to the imder surface of the bricks, and consequently it will thus be seen, that what is so extremely beneficial to the fruit, is also equally bene- ficial to the roots. If the flooring-bricks, therefore, were to be taken up at any time after the roots of the vines had become well established; this grand source of nourishment to them would be entirely cut off". One course of movable bricks, therefore, running along the middle of each compartment, containing one vine, will be sufficient for the purpose before mentioned. When the flooring is finislied, the glazing, &c. of the house should be done without delay. 9th. Planting the vines.— ^hen this is intended to be done, the following directions are necessary to be attended to. When planted in the Winter. — If the roots be loose, and free from mould, provide for every vine two pieces of flannel, or of any description of coarse woollen cloth, sufficiently large to cover over the roots when they are all spread out at length. Put these pieces of cloth in soap-suds, to be well soaked, and, while that is being done, take up a suffi- cient number of movable bricks, and then rake away with the hand the materials of the bed where a vine is to be inserted, under the course of movable bricks, to the depth of three inches, and to such an extent of surface, as will be sufficient for the roots to rest upon, when they are all extended. Then make the surface of this space quite smooth and even. After which take the two pieces of cloth out of the soap-suds, and having drained them for a couple of minutes, spread one of them out on the surface of the bed, for the reception of the roots. This being done, take the vine, and fixing the stem of it in its proper place and position, spread the roots out carefully to their full extent on the wet cloth ; then lay the other piece of wet cloth on the roots, and replace the mate- rials that were raked off at the beginning, on this up- permost wet cloth, taking care to put only a small 164 PLANTING AND MANAGING quantity at a time, and to place them compactly to- gether, so as to cause all the roots to be in close con- tact with the surfaces of both pieces of cloth, then re- lay the bricks on the floor in their proper places. The roots will then lie warm and moist betwixt a couple of blankets, and being thus taken care of, will, in consequence, send forth new roots with the great- est facility when the proper season arrives. Thus one vine will be disposed of, and the others are of course to be planted in the same manner. If the roots, however, are in a pot, the mode of planting must be a little different. In this case, the ball of earth in which the roots are growing had bet- ter not be disturbed. Provide, therefore, one piece of cloth for each vine, and soak it in soap-suds as before. Then take the vine out of the pot with the ball of earth entire, and wrap the wet cloth round it, taking care that it be in close contact with the surface of the soil of the ball. This being done, bind the cloth tightly round with pack-thread, in a sufficiently firm manner to keep it in that state, and then insert it in the bed of materials in the usual manner, taking care that they are placed closely round the ball, so as to leave no open space for the air to dry up the moisture. The wet cloth that will thus remain bound round the roots, will offer no impediment whatever to their growth, for they will quickly penetrate through it in all directions, and in the course of a few months de- vour the whole so completely, that not a vestige of it will remain. When planted in the Smnmer. — In this case the roots will of course be in a groAving state, and in a pot, otherwise the vine cannot be transplanted with safety at this season of the year. Provide a piece of cloth as before, and soak it in ?r«rm soap-suds. Then take the vine out of the pot and wrap the cloth round it in the manner already mentioned, taking care as the roots are nev/ly formed, and therefore very ten- der, not to bind the cloth round too tightly. This being done, insert it in the bed of materials as before, ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 165 It will be of great advantage to a vine planted in this way in summer, to give it about a quart of good rich warm soap-suds every day for a fortnight after it is planted, as this will most materially promote its growth. In planting vines under glass, care should always be taken to avoid the common, but capital erroi\ of placing the stems of them directly under the rafters. Rafters and sashbars reduce the quantity of light that the glass admits, and thus operate injuriously ; they are, however, necessary evils, but the fewer there are in number within a given space, and the less surface each occupies, the better. But to plant a vine, the main stem or branch of which will become one of its grand receptacles of nourishing matter, in a situation where the direct rays of the sun can never reach it, is certainly one of the most absurd and contradictory things imaginable. The proper situation, without doubt, is under the centre of a light ; the main stem and all the branches, and of course the fruit also, will then enjoy the full power of the sun. The bed of materials being made and enclosed, and the vines planted, a brief review may now be taken of the conditions by which the roots are surrounded. Here then is a mass of materials, the mechanical texture and arrangement of which constitute the very delight of the vine. The innumerable cavities and interstices, and the extraordinary extent of surface for the roots to trav- erse which such a mass possesses when put compactly- together, offer to the roots of the vines planted in it such facilities of growth, and the substances them- selves such means of nourishment and support, as cannot be obtained from a hundred times its bulk of mere soil. All the substances, except the bones, pos- sess in common the highest powers of absorption. The porosity of charcoal is such, that its cells occupy more than one half of its cubical contents. The beneficial effects of it, therefore, as an absorbent and a retainer of moisture, render it invaluable as a com- 1G6 PLANTING AND MANAGING ponent. Wherever charcoal is pJaced in situations that exclude the atmospheric air, dryness can never enter. It is said to be under such circumstances indestructible; but that is not the case when the roots of vines fasten upon it, for their spongioles soon abrade its surface, and appropriate the particles to their nourishment and support. The same process do they effectually perform on the bricks and mortar. And with reference to bones, the direct nutriment which they afford is more lasting in its nature than that of any other known substance. And all these substances lying thus close together within a small compass, are at the immediate command of the vines, the roots of which have not to traverse through a vast mass of soil in search of food, by which their growth is frequently impeded and an injurious check thereby given to the vital energies of the vines. The roots, indeed, are surrounded by all the conditions necessary to create in them a healthy action. They lie warm, for the temperature which they enjoy is many degrees higher than that of common soil, and at the same time they are beyond the reach of all sudden atmospheric changes. The shoots which they produce will always be short-jointed, and therefore fruitful, because of their comparative slowness of growth. The practical advantages of these conditions are, that vines growing in the enjoyment of them, may be forced with perfect safety, six weeks sooner than they could be under ordinary circumstances. And as a crowning advantage, a bed of materials for the reception of the roots of vines put together in the manner here recommended, when once made, is made, if not forever, at least for a long series of years. A brief recapitulation of the numerous advantages resulting from the practice of planting vines within a house, and surrounding their roots with conditions more in accordance with those that exist in their native country, having now been made, a few words may be offered, in reference to that large class of glass erections which abound throughout the country, name- ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 167 \y, Greenhouses, Conservatories, &c., and in which, though vines are frequently cultivated, they are gen- erally treated as subordinate to other purposes. In these houses, grapes not being the principal object, the management of the vines is in general of an inferior character. The roots of them are taken but little account of, being generally planted outside in an open border, and suffered to ramble about with- out any attempt being made to bestow on them more favorable conditions of growth. Vines that are subjected to this description of glass culture are brought under notice here, for the purpose of suggesting, that if an improvement in their culture be desired with reference to the better management of their roots, it can easily be accomplished, by making a bed of materials, such as has been already described, and enclosing it in brickwork outside of the house. This would be a decided improvement, and one that would be far better calculated to ensure the produc- tion of good fruit, than any other that could be adopted, while the roots are suffered to ramble about unrestrained in the open soil. Where, therefore, this improvement is intended to be made, the roots should be carefidly taken up at the proper season, and pruned back, and then temporarily tied up in plenty of mat- ting, so that the air cannot affect or injure them. The soil of the border should be then excavated to the breadth of about 8 feet, and to the depth of 2| feet, which is sufficiently deep for an outside border. There are two ways of enclosing the bed of materials that is to be formed in place of the soil taken away, namely, either 7oith the surface of it paved with bricks, or without it. If the surface is to be paved^ then the brickwork is to be done in precisely the same manner as that al- ready described for the inside of a vinery, with the two following exceptions; — 1st. The whole upper flooring of brickwork is to be laid in mortar, no courses of inovable bricks being required for a bed outside of the house, as a sufficient quantity of mois- 168 PLANTING AND MANAGING ture for the roots will find its way through the bricks forming the surface. 2d. The surface of the bed must be sloped^ so that the front of it may be at least six inches lower than that part that joins the house. If the surface of the bed is 7iot to be jjaved^ then the brickwork forming the bottom flooring is also to be sloped, as well as the top surface of the materials, to the same extent as that in the preceding case. The object in view in sloping the bottom, is to admit any excess of water, that may at any time fall on the border, to drain away. To effect this more readily, a few very small crevices must be left open in the bottom of the front wall, just at the junction of the flooring and the wall. And as there is to be no brick flooring on the upper surface of the bed. the cross- walls that are pigeon-holed, are of course not wanted, but it will be advisable to run up the 5o/^W cross- walls, that are intended to keep the roots of each vine separate from each other. The preparation and filling in of the bed of materials is to be efl'ected in the same manner as already described. The roots of the vines should also be deposited in the bed of materials in a similar way, betwixt two pieces of wet woollen cloth ; and in this latter case, where the surface of the mate- rials is open, the roots should be laid in six inches below the surface. If the borders outside of greenhouses, &c., be thus made for the roots of vines that are cultivated within them, the superiority of the fruit would, in conse- quence, be such as to amply repay the trifling expense incurred in making them. A similarly beneficial eftect on the fruit of vines cultivated on the open wall would, without doubt, be produced by making artificial borders of materials enclosed in brickwork in the manner already de- scribed, in all cases where either the soil or subsoil is naturally stifl", adhesive, and cold. ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 169 There remains now to be described a mode of cul- tivating the vine, wliich, from its simplicity and economy, and its easy practical adoption, recommends itself most especially to the notice of a vast class of persons who are not in possession of the means to practise any of the usual methods of culture. This mode of culture is based upon two important principles connected with the growth of the vine. The first of which is, that a body of substances or materials, of the nature already described, being enclosed in hollow brickwork or masonry erected on the surface of the ground, will nourish and support the roots of a vine inserted therein, as effectually as it would do, were the brickwork or masonry enclosing the materials, placed below the surface of the ground. The second principle is, that the roots of a vine, when enclosed in this manner, and supplied with the requi- site degree of moisture, will strike upwards^ and grow as freely in that direction, as they will downwards or horizontally, when the brickwork and materials are beneath the surface of the earth. On these two important principles, an easy and novel mode of cultivating vines may be practised, which may be described as that of building hollow brick erections on the surface of the ground, of any shape, circular, square, or otherwise, and filling them with dry materials of the description already men- tioned, then planting in each erection amongst these materials, the roots of a vine, and training the branches of it on the outside surface of the brick- work. These are the principal features of this method, which, perhaps, will be more clearly understood from a detailed account of the mode of putting up an erection of this description, and planting a vine inside of it. For this purpose, a hollow circular column five feet high and three feet in diameter, may be chosen. A circular erection is the best, because the sun will shine all round it throughout the growing season, and 15 170 PLANTING AND MANAGING also because the shoots of a vine can be trained so much more easily round a circular column than round one of any other description having corners or angles to it. It must first be observed, that, as the soil or ground on which erections of this description can be put, will have no connection whatever with the roots of the vines that are to be enclosed within them, proper and convenient sites may be chosen wholly irrespec- tive of the nature of the soil on which the erections are to be built. Any situation therefore will do, pro- vided it be sheltered, and have an open exposure or aspect facing the course of the sun. Assuming, then, that a proper site has been chosen for the erection of a column of the above-mentioned description, the following directions in building it are to be observed : — 1st. Lay a course of bricks on the ground in the form of a square, the sides of which shall measure four feet. This is to form the base of the column, and is intended to give it an architectural feature. Now, if the site be near any building or wall, or straight path, then the sides of this base must be at right angles with that building, or wall, &c. ; but if none of these exist, then the base must be laid with its corners pointing to the four cardinal points of the horizon. The joints of the brickwork are to be filled in with cement or strong mortar, so as to prevent the roots of the vine from penetrating through into the soil beneath. 2d. The base of the column being laid, the circle for the brickwork of it must then be accurately marked out ; after which, the first course of bricks is to be laid flatwise, so that their inner ends may point to the centre of the circle, and their outer ones form the periphery of it. Half bricks will be sufficiently strong, provided that at four equally distant parts of the circle, in every course, a whole brick be laid, which Avill strengthen the work and make it firm. Half bricks, while the cost of them is much less, will ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 171 not require so much cutting as whole ones, and they will also leave a greater space inside of the column for the reception of the materials. The first circular course being laid, the interior is to remain as it is, hollow. 3d. Now mark the exact spot in this course where the shoot of the vine is to go through the brickwork, and this should be opposite the centre of one of the sides of the base, that faces either the south or east or aay intermediate point. This spot being marked, the second course of bricks is to be laid as before, observ- ing that, as the shoot of the vine is to go through here, a semicircular hole is to be made in the upper surface of the brickwork, of an inch and a half in diameter, to form a passage for the shoot. The second course being laid, a sufficient quantity of materials to fill the column, of the description already mentioned,* having been previously provided and properly prepared, the hollow space is now to be filled with them as high as the surface of the brickwork. They must be put in by the hand, and placed closely and compactly together. 4th. Now plant the vine, observing the directions respecting the roots given in p. 163, which are to be strictly followed. The vine should be a strong plant three years old. It is to be laid on its side, with its roots inside of the column, and its shoot passing through the semicircular hole to the outside of it. That part of the shoot that lies in the hole is to have all its buds cut out, leaving as much of the shoot out- side the column as contains three good buds. 5th. The vine being thus planted, the third course of bricks may be laid, taking care that a brick with a semicircular hole, exactly the same size as the other, is laid over the brick on which the shoot of the vine is resting, and which will then be lying in a eb'cidw hole, an inch and a half in diameter. The third course being laid, the internal vacancy must be again *See page 158. 172 PLANTING AND MANAGING filled up with more materials, taking particular care to place them close round the inner end of the hole containing the shoot of the vine, so as to prevent the entrance of mice or any other unwelcome intruders. The hole on the outside, also, should be filled with moss, which will give it a more sightly appearance than if left open, and likewise protect the roots during their first growth. 6th. The remaining courses of brickwork may now be laid in succession, and the materials filled in as the work proceeds. When the column is built up within three courses of its intended height, and the materials filled in exactly even with the brickwork, a course of whole bricks must be laid over the entire surface^ taking care that those which rest on the materials are not to be laid on mortar, but merely jointed with it. This course being finished, the last two are to be formed with whole bricks laid flush with the outside, and with their inner ends slightly sloping towards the centre of the column, which will cause all the rain that falls on them to run towards it and fall into the sunken hollow space that will be there formed by this circular ring of brickwork. The circular space, which will be about 18 inches in diameter, and 6 inches deep, is intended as a receptacle for all the rain that falls on the surface of the top of the column, which will filter through the single thickness of the bricks, forming the bottom of the hollow space, and thence be distributed by absorption throughout the whole mass of the enclosed materials, thereby supply- ing that moderate degree of moisture to the roots of the vine, which contributes so advantageously to its nourishment and support. The column will now be complete. The sunken space at the top of it may, if desired, be filled with mould ; and mignonnette, or any other annual flower of suitable growth, may be grown in it, and which, hanging pendently over the edge of the column, will present a very graceful appearance. The pruning and training of the shoots of the vine ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES, 173 will be the same as if planted against a straight wall. The circular surface of a column of these dimensions will contain 45 superficial feet ; a few years therefore after its erection, the vine will annually yield 501b, weight of gra}:)es. The whole cost of erecting one, including the enclosed materials, will be about 255. Columns may be erected of a larger or smaller size than that here described ; but if the diameter be much less than three feet, the shape must be that of a polygon of many sides, if built with bricks of the usual shape, on account of their ends being rectangular. A column may be erected on any spare or conve- nient spot, either contiguous to a dwelling or in a garden; and by putting up a couple at opposite or corresponding points, or a greater number sufficient to form a harmonious combination, a highly ornamental appearance may thereby be created. The simple con- trivance of chambering the roots inside, and the pro- vision of the sunken water-table at the top of the column outside, prevent the necessity of the slightest trouble being required in the management of the vine, beyond that of the ordinary routine of pruning and training, while at the same time, the vine is placed in such superior conditions with reference to its roots, that fine well ripened grapes may always be depended upon. On the whole, therefore, it may be said that this entirely new method of growing grapes on the surface of hollow brick erections, which has now been brought under notice, and fully explained, presents so many advantageous features, and is withal of such easy practical application, that a vast number of per- sons, who have not hitherto possessed the means of cultivating even a single vine, may now, at a trifling expense, enjoy the very great luxury of having at every returning season, an ample supply of delicious and fine-flavored grapes. 15* INDEX. PAGE. Alburnum, formation of the 73 Aspects, the best, described 41 Bearing-shoots, description of ..... 127 Berries, advantages of thinning the .... 108 Blood, a good liquid manure .57 Bone-dust, an excellent manure .... 65 Bones, the beneficial effects of, when deposited in vine borders 51 Borders, description of the best materials for making vine 44 , proper method of making vine .... 45 , injurious effects of digging or cropping the . 47 , proper method of vs^atering, with liquid manure 110 Buds, when the small or secondary, should be rubbed off 100 , formation of fruit, described .... 86 Bunches, method of thinning the 105 , large, how to produce 88 Carcases of animals, make excellent manure . . .55 Catalogue of the best sorts of grapes for open walls . 140 Compost, the best sort of, for vine borders . . .45 Copings, advantages of projecting .... 62 , proper width of . . . . . . .63 , movable wooden ...... 64 Cuttings, raising vines by 67 , method of preparing and planting ... 68 Dung-heaps, drainings of, a good liquid manure . . 57 176 INDEX. Excrements of birds and animals, a good top-dressing for vine borders .,,,..,.. 57 Feathers, a good manure 55 Fish, a good top-dressing for vine borders , , , 76 Foliage of vines, capable of producing good wine , . 17 Fruit-buds, the formation of . . . , . 87 Fruiting-shoots, in what position to nail the . , ,101 Fruiting-point, described 134 Grapes, the quantity of, that can be grown on a given extent of surface of walling ...... 16 , one of the principal causes of, not ripening . . 43 , when in blossom 104 . , catalogue of the best sorts of, for open wall . . 140 Hair, a good manure ^55 Horns and hoofs of cattle, a valuable manure . . 54 Lateral shoots, how "to manage the .... 102 Layers, method of raising vines by .... 65 Leather, a good manure 55 Leaves, their great value in protecting the fruit . . 106 , injurious consequences of plucking off the . .112 Lime-washing the surface of vine walls . . . 61 Management of a young vine, during the first five years of its growth ........ 90 , of a vine during the winter . . .130 Manure, the best sorts of, for vine borders . . .51 , proper mode of depositing, in vine borders . 56 -, liquid, the best sorts of 56 -r , caution against the excessive use of . 57 Night-soil, a good top-dressing for vine borders . . 57 Pruning, the chief object of 70 . , different methods of described . . 75-80 , general rules for 80 = , general autumnal 123 INDEX. 177 PAGE. Register, Calendarial 99 Ripening process, described 115 Salt, the good effects of, when cast on a vine border . 131 Sap, motion of the, described . . . . . .72 Scale of the proportionate quantity of grapes which any vine of a given girt of stem can mature . . .33 , practical application of the ..... 36 Shelter, necessary to the prosperous growth of vines . . 37 Shoot, method of bending a young, round the corner of a building 138 Shreds, the best sort of, for nailing vine shoots and branches 89 Soap-suds, an excellent liquid manure . . . .57 Soil, the best sort of, for vines 42 Soot, a valuable manure . . . . . . .57 Stable manure, beneficial to vine borders ... 57 Stem, the, of a vine, described 133 Stoning process of grapes described . . . . 113 Subsoil, the best sort of, for the roots of vines . . 42 Tendrils, when to be pinched off .... . 103 Thinning the bunches, mode of, described . . . 105 the berries 107 , beneficial consequences of . . 108 Training the branches, object of 81 , the serpentine method of .... 82 , winter * 82 , summer ........ 86 Transplanting of vines, method of . . . . .90 Urine, a valuable liquid manure 56 Vine, the, native country of ...... 15 , introduction of into Britain .... 15 , the leaves, tendrils, and young shoots of, capable of producing good wine ..... 17 , adaptation of, for culture in towns . . 19 , the usual method of cultivating, on open walls, describe