- o Oat Tages 2 rose . an Be eee SeUniversity of Virginia Library E;160;.R47;1928 V.2 uniteres aL SN ade A Berf [POR n aR a ' | wa MEs, V ; Siti. el, ERD ——=> : ° TT AMPSHiREe™ ( ( iv F Sh : ‘a SHENAN fee,HAWATL NATIONAL PARK wy 4, ty SOUTH POLEGRINNALDS—TWYFORD COLLECTION PRESENTED TO THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA BY MR. AND MRS. JEFFERSON C. GRINNALDS AS A MEMORIAL TO HIS MOTHER ROBERTA SARAH TWYFORDr ZA. 2 2 = => _ KH a a“ a a ~ — PARK N ATIONAL YELLOWSTONEOUR NATIONAL PARKS BOOK TWO BY MARY A. ROLFE, A.M. FORMERLY GOVERNMENT LECTURER IN GEOLOGY YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK BENJ. H. SANBORN & CO. CHICAGO NEW YORK BOSTON 1928Copyricnut, 1928 By BENJ. H. SANBORN & CO.PREFACE I. THE NATIONAL PARK MOVEMENT As President Merriam of the Carnegie Institute in Washington, D. C., has so forcefully pointed out, our National Parks are the ereat living museums of our land. Each Park is our supreme example of its kind. Some of them are the supreme examples in the world of their kinds. For this reason, in studying about them we learn of Nature’s finest masterpieces. When we visit them we have the rare privilege of watching Nature at work on them, because Nature’s masterpieces are never completed. Inevitably as we learn to know these gifts from Nature’s skill we tune our lives to accord with their greatness. Who can say what human development will result from this contact? In preserving these gifts and in making them our own our national ideals should be refined and strengthened. Thus our National Parks become of ralue to us aS Museums, as workrooms, and as quiet places of inspiration. The movement which is resulting in the opportunity to touch the finest of everything Nature has given to us 1s a comparatively recent accomplishment of the American people. There were but two National Parks previous to 1890. In that year John Mutr’s enthusiasm and persistence bore fruit in the establishment of three California Parks. Nine years later Mount Rainier National Park was established largely through his efforts. In the early years of this century America began to awaken to a sense of man’s responsibility for the preservation of the gifts of Nature and also to the need for vacations in wild places. A group of those who love the outdoor life were writing of little-known regions of the country, many of them men who had gone out in iiiiv PREFACE search of health. Theodore Roosevelt was one of these. He missed no opportunity to speak or write about man’s responsibility and about man’s health need. He gave new impetus to what had al- ready been established as a national policy and did it just when, on theone hand, automobilesand hard roads made long vacation trips a possibility for the masses and when, on the other hand, the doors of the great western areas were about to be opened to corpora- tions whose scant respect for Nature or the needs of future genera- tions could be met only by a popular awakening to these same needs. His brilliant and forceful pen and his insistent energy and purpose drew forth a most effective popular response. Quick to feel this rising tide of popular desire, governing officials in towns, cities, counties, states, and in Washington vied with each other, setting aside areas for the enjoyment of all and the preser- vation or conservation of natural beauty and of national re- sources. This movement is steadily progressing, each year wit- nessing the establishment of many more reserved areas. The con- tinuous care of such areas has become a matter of civic pride and of national loyalty. Of the nationally owned areas some have been assigned to the care of the War Department, some to the Department of Agri- culture, and some to the Department of the Interior. Those as- signed to the War Department are those that record our respect for the heroes of the past. Those assigned to the Department of Agriculture are tracts of forest, swamp, and meadowlands held for the conservation of trees, birds, game, fish, water supply, etc. Lumbering, hunting, pasturing, etc., are allowed within them, but only under very strict supervision and to a limited extent. The scenic wonders have been assigned to the Department of the Interior to be preserved for all time as Nature has wrought them. Trees are never cut, game is never hunted, birds are never killed, wild flowers are never picked, cattle and sheep are never pastured in these areas unless It becomes absolutely necessary to do so for the proper administration of the areas.PREFACE Vv These scenic areas are of two sorts, National Monuments, which are set aside by Presidential proclamation, and National Parks, which are set aside by Congressional action. Areas are held as Monuments which, while of sufficient scenic interest to warrant their preservation, are either in size or kind not of National Park calibre. Areas are also from time to time selected from publicly held land for Presidential proclamation that they may be pre- served until such time as Congress may see fit to act with a view to raising them to National Park rank. The policy of the Nation- al Park Service, a branch of the Department of the Interior in immediate charge of the Monuments and Parks, specifies that before any area may be considered as of National Park rank it must include our supreme example of its kind, must be of a size sufficient to protect this feature and to accommodate large num- bers of visitors without despoliation of the natural beauty, and must be so located that it will not interfere with established trade routes and industries. It must be free from all debts or other incumbrances and the title to each section must be clear before the Government will accept it for National Park purposes. Thus far all Parks have been carved out of public lands or have been acquired by gift or exchange. It is not the policy of the depart- ment to purchase land for Park purposes, although it may be necessary to do this in order to protect some choice natural fea- tures. While admitting that this might be done it is expected that all such areas will be acquired by private or public donation, or through exchange of public land or its resources for privately held land. II. THESE BOOKS These readers describe the National Parks through the fabric of a story. Two families travel from their homes near the East- ern Parks to the Pacific and back again, visiting the various Parks, one after the other. They are normal families and therefore thevi PREFACE cture them with somewhat of the give and take common to such families. Life is a happy thing to them and each experi- ence is enjoyed whole-heartedly, but sometimes they grow weary of seeing, as would normal people. The characters are: Mr. and Mrs. Bruce Carroll, Jill Carroll, aged ten, and Jack Carroll, aged twelve; Mrs. Carroll’s brother, George Brown, Mrs. George Brown, Alice Brown, four years old, and Rob Brown, aged fourteen; Madam Brown, the mother of Mrs. Carroll and Mr. Brown; Anna, Jill’s nurse; Joe, the son of a cousin of Mr. Carroll and a sailor in the United States Navy; and a great many other, casual characters. Woven into the experiences of these two families as they travel from Park to Park are stories from history, stories and legends of the different Indian tribes that once claimed as their own the land we now occupy as Parks, stories of pure adventure with settings in the Park areas, and stories that mix adventure with instruction in good sportsmanship and the art of mountaineering. As the pupil reads he will acquire a continuously growing knowl- edge of how rocks and water, frost and snow, wind and rain, and the rise and fall of land have worked together to form these regions of great natural beauty and awe-inspiring features, of how trees live and bear fruit and shelter birds, of how man in his carelessness destroys them, and of Nature’s efforts to rebuild them. He will learn much of the habits of wild animals, birds, fish, and flowers, and he will be shown the problems which we as a people face in our efforts to preserve wild life and to prevent the commercial use of those parts of our land which we have already set aside for future generations. Each book contains over one hundred illustrations and several color plates. These have been very carefully selected to interest and instruct children. The illustrations are all closely associated with the story, the two having been worked out together. A large number of the best-informed men and women of the United States have given of their time, skill, and specific knowledge to help the stories pilPREFACE vii author. Without their codperation it would not have been pos- sible to bring the needed material together. The National Park Service has rendered every possible service in the way of information, photographs, advice, etc. A personal message from Mr. Stephen T. Mather, the Director of the Service, appears on page 1x. The Forestry Service of the Department of Agriculture has made possible the inclusion of the bulk of the fire-prevention material. The magazines Forestry and American Forests and Forest Life have furnished most of the rest of this material. The U.S. Geological Survey, the Biological Survey, the U.S. Fish Commission, and the War Department have all helped greatly. The Roosevelt Wild Life Association and many outdoor and motor organizations have sent official reports and photographs. Railroads serving the various Parks have given both time and imagination to the selection of photographs and other material. The Union Pacific has been especially kind in granting permission to reproduce their color pictures on the cover and as a frontispiece. A Hawaiian photographer, K. Maehara, of Hilo, permitted the use of two color illustrations. Many newspapers, magazines, and publishing firms have permitted the reprint of illustrations, poems, and portions of articles. Arthur Guiterman has given permission to use his poem, and Lew Sarett has permitted the use of his fish- planting story. For the passages quoted in the section on Mount McKinley, I am indebted particularly to those who have permitted me to glean information from their writings, published and unpublished. It has been necessary for the sake of uniformity and in consider- ation of the age of the readers of this book to reword the quota- tions somewhat so that the several stories could be interwoven to form one story, but the main quotations are designated by foot- notes. For maps, information, and advice with regard to the Mount McKinley section I am also indebted to George Lingo and Robert Sheldon of the Mount McKinley Park Transportation Company,vill PREFACE to Hudson Stuck’s book, The Ascent of Mount Denalz, to G. E. Mitchell of the U. S. Geological Survey, to the Alaskan Railway, to T. E. Savage, University of Illinois, and particularly to Ida Hamlin of the Alaska Agricultural College. Grateful acknowledgment is made to all of them. does the author wish to acknowledge the invaluable assistance of who have given their own experiences e books might be full of the spirit of ad- venture as well as of facts, and the serious criticisms of her nieces and the children of her neighborhood who have acted as child editors. Their characters are, in fact, woven into the story. To every child who will help to preserve the beautiful things of this world I dedicate these books. Especially her personal friends that the pages of thes MARY A. ROLFE Champaign, Illinois.PERSONAL MESSAGE FROM THE DIRECTOR OF THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE The National Parks, about which you will read in this interest- ing book, belong to all the people of the United States—to you, children of the grammar grades, as well as to your grown-up relatives and friends. Uncle Sam’s representatives who take care of these reservations want you to know them and love them, to spend your vacations in them when possible, and to feel the thrill of pride that must come from a realization of partial ownership in some of the world’s scenic wonderlands. Most of you have read Longfellow’s poem Evangeline and re- member his reference to ‘‘the forest primeval.’ The forest primeval is fast vanishing, except in our National Parks. But here, as long as the Parks endure, these forests, mute reminders of what our pioneer ancestors encountered, will be protected and eared for. It is interesting to read animal stories—to learn of the habits of bear, antelope, and deer, and of the herds of buffalo that once thundered across the plains. But think how thrilling actually to see them in their native habitat in the National Parks, where none may molest them. My own daughter has accompanied me on many a Park trip, so that now she is an experienced camper and an outdoor en- thusiast of the first rank. Watching the broadening effect on her of contact with Nature as exemplified in the National Parks, I am convinced that they offer unlimited possibilities for the education of children in love of country and true patriotism. I hope that some day most of you may have the pleasure of making in person the trip that you will take with Miss Rolfe, through the medium of this reader, to our National Parks. SrepHEN T. Matuer, Director.CONTENTS YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK Dame Nature Spills Her Cake. Mono Lake A Thunder-Storm Where Waters Spin Like W heals Tenaya Tul-Tok’-A-Na Primroses and Rocks Animal Antics Where Water Shakes the E art The Magic of White Granite Sequoia NATIONAL PARK GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL Park Jf The Land of a Million Giants Hospital Rock A Wolverine Versus Two Bears Golden Trout. Hale D. Tharp’s ¢ bine Trail Talk Crown Tires . Hawai NATIONAL PARK . The Park That Came Up Right in vale Middle of fle Pacific Ocean The World’s Weirdest Walk Pelé Awake Again LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK . What Is a Volcano? The Trick Lassen Tr ried to Pla ay xl 16 73 79 91 93 93 98CoNnTENTS PAGE Scouring Powder. ee ee ee OL @oldanishteew 9 0 ee 103 mncesbiremVolcano, = a 8). et eea ee 106 Wet lascehlOuse.) ye rs 107 @nnime WARE NATIONAL PARK . = 9. : + = ae 109 The Mountain That Swallowed Itself. . .- - - + 109 The Best Swimming Hole in America. . - - - - -: 115 MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK . - -<° = - + 3 119 coher Greatswiniter'GOd:. 5 - = <- & i. 3 119 IPiversininlce.. 6: 32k ca SO ACA 121 @inciershecths 0. ta Se a 125 ThesNisqualiy Glacier. ~. = ©... = &-. 3s 128 MountainsMangers.¢ >.<. 400! 4 8 5 3 132 Nature-Coasting. . oa ee gee Mail Goes Out at Nine. ies: ere Hunting Mountain Goats with a Game ra ke el Rainicnsi@rowls. 6 146 Mhe pricerOrbeace.: oat ee ee ER ee 152 Mount McKinury NATIONAL PARK oe el iectnigidee Park... 8) 3 oe ee ee ThesWandeot the Madniphtoun <6 © ..99 cele Sliheshancvot they Mountains! 9 9s. 74 ee 168 Mhowshootthe-shoots. 2 ee ee Wortherniichte: . ee ee Muldrow: Glacier... os. See Thesurebird ee loo GUA CTRRENTATIONAT: PARK... 4) oe) he 9s ee inhemviountains Chat Walked] 9356": 4... 44 7gley HowiG@lacier Park Got Its\Namee = «= - - . | « 202 Nature’s Refrigerators . . ee OS Ne ee The Continental Divide asta. a ee oO Lakes and FishCONTENTS Facing Down a Grizzly. Trick Falls Going-to-the-Sun Over the Garden Wall Iceberg Lake YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK The Deer Take a Bath . Surprise Park. Wales 5: The Birds’ Breakfast Table The Mountain That Tipped Up The Mountain That Slides. Old Faithful . : The Discovery of the Park. oe The Birds That Carry Water Buckets Loch Leven An Epitaph PROPOSED GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK . The Conquest of Mount Moran Elk. Her Work. WIND Cave NATIONAL PARK. Nature’s Whistle. SuLLYs Hitt NATIONAL PARK Sweetwater Lake. CONCLUSION. Marshes Be ee ae oe The Bird’s Cry Out of the North . INDEX tOILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Mount Rainier, Coton PLate. . uae a COVER Mammortu Hor Sprinas, YELLOWSTONE Pk ARK, Conor PLATE. . . . . Frontispiece Sixty MILEs or SIERRA Ne VADA Mon NTAINS Ss 2605 6 2 BHONOMUNRMO SIGN BOARD: << °.. ho. 4) 2 ees 7 MIOGA DAKE. . Mr eB 9 TUOLUMNE WATER VR oe ee Ie ERICA ARM a ee ME APITAN. . . ree ee re ee LF RIMGEANCH TO YOSEMITE: VALLEY. . . . « 06%. 3 20 PRMBOSESeAND EVADE DOME. . ... 5 MARE, DOME FROM. Mrrcep RIVER’. . . . . ... . 93 MUMEROMMR AND*SROWN BEAR. .- << « . . 5. | 326 YOSEMITE FALLS AND Mercep RIVER FROM GLACIER PoInT. 28 SR GUMHBEOINT: . ©. 4 hf me eee oe ena aM BIGANDEOR GIANTS ..§.. ¢ 1° on. os a oe eee, Wawona TREE BO Gs ese ol ae wk ee [EMINEIGAINSHERMAN CREE. . «. « 665 > 5 4 6. eg ENE SINGRANT SEQUOIA. . . . « © G «2 AO MMRAGREAT WESTERN DIVIDE . . 6°: 622955 =) 4 MIGROPROCK AND KAWEAH CANYON. . §. . «1s 4. 2° 46 MOSEUTATEVOCK INSCRIPTION... . . 3%. 3s.) ao WOLVERINE eae ny GOLDEN-TRovuT FISHING .. Oe cea ie A eva) nee Up KINGS River CANYON ; = . 9; . = = 66 LIGHTNING STRIKING Four Miues Away .-.... .. @0 BOG ARRTESS-CAMPER—WHY!. . . « 6 et 0 5 os Ath HINCMNEATA FROMTHE SEA .. . ¢. (0 iD HALEAKALA CRATER 7ILLUSTRATIONS Tue SILVER SWORD CooLtep LAVA WHERE IT CROSSED THE Roto Lava FLow CominG Over HILL. Lava FLow ENTERING THE SEA . PAHOEHOE LAVA ; HALEMAUMAU, COLOR Pe ATE. GREAT CRACKS IN THE Kau DESERT ERUPTION OF KILAUEA. THUNDER-STORM AND RAIN IN V OLCANIC C LOUD WInpD BLown Dust COLUMN. CASCADE RANGE FROM THE AIR VoLcaNic CLouD BREAKING LOOSE . CLEARING A FIRE LINE Tue Frre VOLCANO Fire LOOKOUT . INSIDE OF FIRE LOOKOUT. Mount MazAMA CRATER LAKE FROM THE ene BURNED-OVER PINE FOREST . A CaRELEss Man, WHo THREW A MATCH . Mount R AINIER FROM SEATTLE . Mount RAINIER FROM THE MOTHER MOuN NTAINS . Snout or NISQUALLY GLACIER CAVE IN SNOUT OF GLACIER ee he NISQUALLY GLACIER FROM PARADISE VALLEY IcE-BrRIDGE, NISQUALLY GLACIER NATURE- Sonate, PARADISE INN BURIED IN SNOW CLIMBING PINNACLE PEAK RAINIER’S FLOWER CROWN Mountain FLOWERS MountTAIN FLOWERS ALASKAN PTARMIGAN CARIBOU. PAGE 77 78 79 79 ene facing 84 85 87 88 89BoscaT IN TRAP Moose Tue NoOonpDay SUN. CARIBOU. ALASKAN FLOWERS. Mipnicut View or Mount McKIn.ey. Mount Mee: FROM THE SOUTH SAVAGE RIVER CAMP DouBLE MOUNTAIN SABLE Pass. ALASKAN SHEEP Heap. Rocks STANDING ON END. TOKLAT GLACIER Upper Fork or TOKLAT Bien R CarisBou IN HicgHway Pass CARIBOU ON SNOW BANK Doa TEAM AND SLEIGH. NORTHERN LIGHTS. Mount McKIntey. SurF Brrp Risinac WOLF Mour NTAIN Dawn Mist FALLS LAKE McDoNALpD WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL pie Kis: LAKE ELLEN WILSON Rainspow Trout FoR McDERMOTT L AKE Eyvep Native Trout ror HippEN LAKE Trick FALLS BLACKFEET INDIANS LAKE St. Mary’s AND GOING-TO-THE-SUN I! Rocky MountvAIN GOAT Rocxy MountTAINn GOAT AND KID GRINNELL GLACIER FROM GRINNELL LAKE . LAKE McDermott. ILLUSTRATIONS XVII PAGE 163 163 164 165 166 167 169 170 173 175 176 177 178 179 180 183 185 187 189 195 200 201 203 mWNnNNNDN! woowwwndst Pwo WtILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Mr. AND Mrs. GRINNELL ON GRINNELL GLACIER. . . . 286 IGHERRGUIAKII 9 a MutmDEERM <0 fo OP a ee WinliHOATDEDAD HMR = 6 8 5. °° le ry See Chemin (Grint, es aes ge BamysMurn DEER. 4 8. ff: 6. «ee ANTHEORD: or ek a oe a COYOTE: .« <<" .: eer @HASSHOPPER GLACIER <--> = = «9. « = eee WANDIEAKEE GASING =. 0 ks Gk ee VEETLOWSTONE GAKE.. 2 9% 4. wk 24). Se TOWER FALLS .. . A Ue ae ee YELLOWSTONE CANYON .. i A a ee Hort SprRING IN YELLOWSTONE C, ANYON, ... <9. 5 eae WOPITERRERRACK. <0. 66: i) eo ee BHAGLE Nuest-Rock. . . . ys Bo re SEPULCHRE MOUNTAIN AND Mr. ieee i oS a = el ree OLD FAITHFUL IN HALF Puay. . . . so oe re OLD FAITHFUL—STEAM STAGE . A i ee ony Upper GEYSER BASIN. .. . el OUD -DATTHEULIIN HuLL PLAY: : ~ . 4.4. 2) 3 eee Riso HiaTcHmeRY ON CLEAR CREEK . -. . . 5 os = eeeeoe IBBTRIFIED PINE: 94 6) 3 8. sn 2 Teton MOUNTAINS... . wip i ee alae ree UR ee en So ee ADDER TO Eire Lookout STATION. - . <>) 7) sn Hime LOOKOUT STATION. - «:- 2 “x 2 &)- i.) % ee eee Fire FINDER . . eS et a eC Frost Work In WIND Cc AVE.) 8 eee ee SWEETWATER LAKE . . Be OR ae ee Duck CONCENTRATION IN ANE 321OUR NATIONAL PARKSHERITAGE This is the land that we love, where our fathers found refuge; Here are the grooves of their plows and the mounds of their gTAaves; These are the hills that they knew and the forests and waters, Glorious rivers and seas of rejuvenant waves. Fruitful and broad are the billowing plains that they left us, Mossy and cool are the trails that we tread as they trod, Grand are the ranges and deep are the echoing canyons, Holy and pure are the peaks as the altars of God. This is our heritage, this that our fathers bequeathed us, Ours in our time, but in trust for the ages to be; Wasting or husbanding, building, destroying or shielding, Faithful or faithless—possessors and stewards are we. —ARTHUR GUITERMANYOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK Sierra Nevada Mountains, California. 1,125 square miles. Established 1890. DAME NATURE SPILLS HER CAKE The two cars were crossing the Nevada desert, keeping far apart. The desert dust was blown by lazy winds in low- hanging swirls across the road. A passing car caught up the swirls and threw them back in clouds of dust, which settled slowly as though weighted. As the dust settled, it formed a gray veil which hid the landscape. Night was coming. Gradually its purple robes thickened. Mr. Brown’s car was leading, but it moved forward with some difficulty. Something was wrong with the engine. By petting it along he hoped to reach Mono Lake before he had to lay up for repairs. Sitting between her father and Jill on the front seat, Alice sighed. ‘““What’s the trouble?” asked her father. ‘“‘Hot!’’ answered Alice. ‘Never mind,” said her father, ‘“‘by this time tomorrow we hope to be where there is snow.”’ “Snow!” exclaimed Jill. ‘‘It is funny even to think of snow. Where is it?”’ ‘There, ahead. Can’t you see the white-topped Sierra Mountains? That is snow.”’ ‘Are we going up on top of them?”’ asked Jill. “Ves”? answered her uncle, ‘‘and it is a long way up there. The road by which we shall cross the mountains is 9,946 feet 12 YosEMITE NATIONAL PARK above the sea. That means that we have to go up in the air more than a mile from the camp at Mono Lake. It is a steep road, so when we start we shall climb rapidly. An hour or so from sagebrush and desert will take us up to snow and Pe Courtesy Mono Inn Srxty MILEs oF SrerrA NEvADA MOUNTAINS junipers. Perhaps, Alice, you may find a beautiful snow flower up there.”’ ‘“‘T like white flowers,”’ said Alice. “But snow flowers aren’t white!” exclaimed her uncle. “They are scarlet red and they look like fat hyacinths. They erow very fast and they come up like little darting flames of fire to lick the departing snow along the edges of melting snow banks.”DaME NATURE SPILLS HER CAKE ) ‘“May I pick some?”’ asked Alice. ‘No, Baby,’’ answered her father. ‘‘We shall be on National Park land then and you know what that means.” ‘““Yes, I know,” answered Alice. “‘It means, ‘Now be a good little girl and leave that flower, ’cause another little girl wants to pick it tonight—but the ranger man will tell her that she is naughty if she does.’ That’s it, isn’t it, Father?”’ “Yes, that is it,’’ answered her father, smiling. “‘ You have a great little thinker in your head! Now I wonder if you two girls would like to have me tell you how these mountains came to be so steep on this side?”’ “Ves! Yes!” cried Jill, sitting up, her face full of interest. “T can see by your eyes that it is going to be a funny story.” “Tt is a Dame Nature story about the cakes that were spilled off the plate,’’ answered her uncle. ‘“‘T like Dame Nature stories,’’said Alice, folding her hands in her lap. ‘You have been seeing many of Nature’s cakes, but there is one you haven’t seen, and you can’t see it until you go down the other side of those mountains. Once on a time there were no mountains. The Layer-Cake Country extended much farther west. It was covered with sand like that over which we are running. The sand is, you know, the powdered sugar on the top of the cakes.” “No!” exclaimed Jill, ‘‘I didn’t know.”’ She began at once to look at the darkening desert with a new interest. ‘One day,” continued her uncle, ‘“‘old Dame Nature got locked in her pantry down below us and couldn't get out. Cake plates were everywhere—all around and above her. She had been so busy arranging them that she had forgotten and put them across her door! She was tired and it made her very angry to find the door blocked, so she did what I have4 YosEMITE NATIONAL PARK seen some little girls do—she hit the poor cake plates, just as though they were to blame! Thump! Thump! She hit them very hard. The cakes shivered and shook. If there had been any people to know about it they would have called it an earthquake and have been frightened, but there weren't any people and so no one was frightened. At last she cracked a plate—this one on which we are running!” “This one!’ exclaimed Jill. “Yes this one,” answered her uncle. ‘‘The crack went right across the edge of the plate. Thump! Thump! Nature continued to hit harder and harder. The plate began to break and the edges slipped past each other. The big part of the plate—the part we are on—tipped down and the little part tipped up to make those mountains ahead. Don’t they look like the edge of a broken plate? “Bach thump tipped them higher. By making herself almost as thin as molasses, Nature could squeeze her head and arms through between the broken edges. Out she pushed with a great blowing and puffing and rattling of rocks, which tore off as she came. She was so tired and angry that her breath was like fire. If there had been any people here they would have exclaimed, ‘Look! There is a voleano!’ But there weren’t any people, so no one said anything. ‘After a while Nature was so tired from pushing and puffing that she stopped to rest and cool off, hanging by her arms to the edge of the tipped-up broken plate. She went to sleep hanging there, and as she slept she grew colder and colder. Her breath turned black and dark red and stuck to the rocks. People call it lava today, but we know that it is Nature’s angry breath. We shall see it when we climb the mountains because it is still there on top of the rocks. ‘“When the plate tipped up, most of the cake on it slid andMono LAKE 5 bounced off from it. Then rain came and as the rain ran off toward the west it took with it almost all of the cake that was left. After a long time Nature awoke. She was hungry. She reached out her long arms to gather in the cake that ishe might eat it, but there was no cake—just a broken piece of a dirty white granite plate. The sun danced and laughed on its surface. ‘“Poor Nature let go and slipped back into her pantry and left the broken plate edge sticking up in the air. We eall it the Sierra Nevada Range of mountains and think that it is beautiful, but the sunbeams which still dance on the white rock laugh when they remember how Nature was fooled.”’ ‘“Unecle Dock, shall we see the crack?” asked Jill. ‘“No,’’ answered her uncle, ‘‘ when Nature slipped back she tore great chunks of rock off from the edge. These fell into the crack after her and filled it. They kept on falling until they were heaped up high over the crack. We shall cross those piles of rock just before we start to climb the mountains.” “Ts Nature asleep now?”’ asked Alice. ‘“Yes,”’ answered her uncle, ‘‘but sometimes she is restless in her sleep and turns over, or groans, or puffs out little columns of steam. Sometimes dark lava comes—just enough of it to show that she is still down there. A few years ago, when she turned over, she jarred the broken cake plate in one place so that it slipped up another ten or twenty feet. Last summer she set things to shaking again.”’ MONO LAKE It was very dark by the shore of Mono Lake when the two cars stopped and the men and boys began to make camp.YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK Soon they were all rolled in their blankets, asleep or lying awake looking far up into the deep blue, star-pointed sky. By five o’clock they were again awake, running along the shores of the strangest lake they had ever seen. The water, gray and blue around the edges and deep blue farther out, reflected the pink and lilac cones of the dead volcanoes around its edge. The water was salty, but it was not plain salt water. It contained borax. The shores were white with the salt and borax where the waves had lapped them up and left them to dry. “Mother,” said Jill, listening to the conversation about it, ‘isn’t borax what we use to wash windows? ”’ “Yes.” answered her mother, ‘‘and I am going to wash my hair in the lake. It should dry fast in this desert air.” “ Photo by Boysen Studios TENAYA LAKE ‘Uncle Dock, are larvae worms?” asked Jill. ‘‘The word sounds wormy, but Indians wouldn’t eat worms, would they?”’ ‘“Yes,’’? answered her uncle, “larvae are worms, young ones, and the Indians are very fond of eating them. But, if that makes you feel creepy, how will you feel when I tell you that the Indians of this region also eat caterpillars—hig, fat,14 YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK bumpy caterpillars! They are a kind of silkworm. The Indians find them on the white pine trees. They come into the mountains at caterpillar time and gather them in bas- kets. Then they spread them out in the sun to dry. When they are dry they store them in their huts down by Mono Lake to use during the winter.” ‘How do they use them?” asked Mrs. Brown. ‘Just as we use raisins—in their biscuits and puddings. They also use them for flavoring their soups and porridge.”’ ‘But do they make biscuits?”’ asked Mrs. Brown. ‘Yes, they make a sort of acorn bread in round biscuit- like cakes,’ answered her husband. ‘Acorns! Are Indians squirrels?’’ laughed Jack. ‘‘Sometimes,”’ answered Mr. Brown. ‘‘ At any rate, they use acorns as we use wheat, grinding them into flour. They gather them and store them in log pens. Then when it is time to get a meal, the women take out a few handfuls of acorns, put them in a hollow in a rock, and grind them fine with stones. They then pour a little water on the meal and so make a dough of it. This they pat into round cakes. Then they dig hollows in the clay near the bank of the river and fill the hollows with water. These hollows are their kettles! Of course, they can’t build fires under them, so they heat stones in the campfire and drop them into their queer kettles until the water is hot enough. Then they dip out the stones and drop in the acorn cakes, which cook in the hot water.” “But, George,”’ said his wife, ‘‘I thought that acorns were bitter to eat.” ‘They are, but the Indians have learned that the hot water will take the bitter out of the meal,’’ answered Mr. Brown. “We saw no Indians down by Mono Lake,” said Rob.TENAYA 15 “No, they are now up here in the Park, gathering grasses for baskets. There are not many Indians left. The white man drove most of them out and killed the rest. This lake is named Tenaya after the last Yosemite chief. The Indians who lived in Yosemite Valley and who also gathered cater- pillars and grasses in these high mountains were the Ah-wah- ne-chees. They were a brave and fearless band and the valley was their stronghold, which they protected by means of stone runways, down which they could roll rocks on intruders. From time to time, outlaws from other tribes joined them. Thus they became a strong band, feared by all other tribes and called by them the Yosemites, after the fierce grizzly bears that once lived in these mountains. The peaceful Mono Lake Indians were their only friends. “When the gold seekers and sheepherders came, the Yosemites resented their inroads and raided their settle- ments, hoping to drive them out, but Uncle Sam sent his soldiers to protect them. The soldiers sought out the Indian stronghold and were thus the first white men to enter Yosem- ite Valley,- the most beautiful valley in the world. Their coming was so unexpected and they were so well armed that the Indians fled up hidden trails to high hiding places. Find- ing no Indians, the soldiers set fire to their homes and burned their stores of acorns, hoping thus to drive them to surrender. Tenaya and his brave men would not yield and so they were hunted out and captured or killed. They made their last stand by this lake, just over there by those round rocks. The snow was knee deep and they were without food, but they would not surrender. Too weak to resist longer they were captured by the soldiers. The speech which Tenaya made to the soldiers is one of the finest and bravest talks by = defeated leader of which we know. But though brave, heYosEMITE NATIONAL PARK was a scoundrel and, after being released by Uncle Sam on account of his age, he was killed for stealing from a Mono Lake Indian who had befriended him.” TUL-TOK’-A-NA “Took!” eried Jill, running toward her uncle’s car, which was parked in a lovely grove off the main highway from Tenaya Lake to Yosemite Valley. As she ran, she held up a long cone from the sugar-pine tree. ‘“‘Measure it, Uncle Dock, please,”’ she said as she handed it to him. “It’s lots longer than any of the others we found.”’ ‘Seventeen inches,” said her uncle as he laid his pocket rule along it. ‘‘That is longer than most of them, although they do sometimes grow an inch longer. The Indians gather them and crack out the nuts, which they consider a great delicacy. When the cones are ripe, the Indians wait for the sauirrels to help them. Up to the tree tops go the squirrels to gather their winter’s supply of food. Cone after cone is cut off by their sharp teeth. Below the trees the Indians bend to pick them up and store them for their winter’s supply of food!” ‘‘Poor squirrels! What do they have to eat then?” asked Jill. ‘Oh, I guess that there are enough for all. There are not many Indians left, you know. Hop in now, and we will try to make the canyon while the shadows are yet short.” Some time later Jill suddenly sat straight up. ‘‘ Look!” she cried, pointing ahead. ‘“‘See that big rock! What is it?” “That is El Capitan,” answered her uncle. ‘“‘It is 3,604 feet straight up from bottom to top. What is the matter?” he added as Jill made a sudden movement of her knee.‘“‘Tt’s a measuring worm right on my knee!”’ she ex- plained. ‘“‘I don’t want to smash it,’ she added, wrin- kling up her nose and shrug- ging her shoulders. ‘‘ What shall I do with it?” ‘“‘Here, let me have it, and I will tell you a story about the measuring worm and that big rock ahead,” said her uncle. ““There, we will put the worm up on the windshield and let it meas- ure the glass, while I tell you what it did once on a time. It is an Indian legend. Galen Clark toldit. He was the first superintendent of Yosemite Park and he wrote a book on the Indians in which he told thestory. You can read it there some day, but now I’ll tell it to you as I remember it. Listen! “Once on a time two small: boys lived in the Yosemite Valley. One morning they went down to the river to swim. When they had finished their TUL-TOK’-A-NA Photo by Boysen Studios EL CaPITAN swim, they climbed out of the water and lay down in the sun18 YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK on the top of a big boulder. There they fell asleep. They slept so soundly that they did not awaken, although very, very slowly the big boulder on which they slept rose up from the ground! Higher and higher it was pushed up from below. Through many moons it kept on going up and up, and the small boys kept on sleeping. Finally the top of the rock was so high that they were out of sight of their friends in the valley. It wasso high that they ‘scraped their faces against the moon,’ and yet they did not awaken! ‘Finally their friends grew worried about them and all the animals assembled to consider how they might be reached and brought down from the top of the great rock. First, the mouse tried to jump to the top of the rock, but she could jump only a little way up. Then the rat tried, but she could not go much higher. The raccoon did very little better. The grizzly bear then made a big leap, but it counted for little against that tall rock. At last the lordly lion tried, but, although he could jump higher than any of the others, he could not reach the top. Then little Tul-tok’-a-na, the meas- uring worm, who was much despised by all the animals, began to creep up the face of the rock. Hump! Hump! Hump! Slowly he climbed, until he had gone higher than the mouse jumped, higher than the rat, higher than the raccoon, higher than the bear, higher than the lion! Still he crept on, until at last the animals below could no longer see him. At length he reached the top and there he found the two sleeping boys. He picked them up and carried them safely down to the ground. The Indians named the rock for the measuring worm and called it Tu-tok-a-nu’-la. White men changed the name to El Capitan.” “Uncle Dock, that’s a funny story,” laughed Jill, ““because a little worm like that couldn’t carry two boys on its back!”TUL-TOK’-A-NA 19 “Tt is a crazy story,” said Jack, who had been listening from the rear seat. ‘‘ How did the people know that the boys were up there, and why didn’t they climb up the way we came down and so get them?”’ ‘“You children are too particular and you lack imagination. You will never do as Indian children—and we have brought you all the way from Maine to California on purpose to sell you to the Indians in exchange for the very beautiful baskets they make!”’ Amid peals of laughter Mr. Brown stopped the car in the line of automobiles at the entrance ranger station. “Just you wait, Jack Carroll,” he said, ‘“‘until you have climbed the trail up to Glacier Point. Then you will know why the Indians didn’t want to climb up after the boys!”’ “Tt sounds interesting,’ answered Jack. ‘‘What will we see from there?”’ “Waterfalls and waterfalls and more waterfalls. All the little and big streams we have crossed or passed as we have come down the mountains today go tumbling and hurdling over the rim of this canyon. Now,” he added a few minutes later, ‘‘we shall enter the most beautiful of all valleys! El Capitan guards it on the left. On the right, lovely Bridal Veil Falls is waving her greeting to us. See how the wind blows her veil out from the rocks and gathers it up in the middle to tie it with a rainbow scarf? The Indians thought an evil spirit lived in it and turned away their faces when they passed it!”’ Driving slowly, the line of cars continued up the valley. They passed the face of El Capitan and went on to Yosemite Falls, which was thundering as its water plunged downward. Then, skirting the base of the three-thousand-foot-high white granite wall on their left, they finally reached the auto20 YosEMITE NATIONAL PARK camp at the forking of the valley eight miles above the ranger station. Through the center of the mile-wide valley wound the Merced River, making the valley floor a carpet of green, dotted by masses of flowers. ‘‘Before the white man came, Indian camps were pitched sired pane ae oe —— pa Courtesy Union Pacific Railway ENTRANCE TO YOSEMITE VALLEY “On the right lovely Bridal Veil Falls” along both sides of the stream and, by a strange custom, girls from one side could marry only boys from the other side. Great log bins held the stores of acorns for each camp. ‘“‘Tndian trails wound up the cliffs in the few places where they could be climbed. Trails the length of the valley met at the fording place in the stream. Now roadways and cleared paths follow the lines of these trails, modern hotels andPRIMROSES AND Rocks 91 camps have replaced the Indian huts of poles and bark. Bridges span the fording place and only a few poor Indians, who come each year to sell their baskets, rotting acorn bins, and flat stones with hollows in them where the women ground their acorn meal are left to remind us that we have not always owned the valley.’ PRIMROSES AND ROCKS “You are soaking wet!” exclaimed Alice’s father as she ran into his arms. “Here,” he added, ‘“‘stand over on this side of me so that the fire can have a chance to dry you out.” “Yes, but I’ve been in the rainbow—right in the rain- bow!”’ declared Alice. “We went to see Vernal Falls,’ explained Mrs. Brown. “There was a rainbow that made a complete circle in the mist at the foot of the falls. I picked Alice up and held her in the center of it. I got beautifully splashed doing it, too!”’ “And Jill told me about the measuring worm, Fa- ther. It is a_bee-u-tiful story,” said Alice. “Of course it is,’ an- ee : : swered her father, ‘‘but it pegs se NG Be Serv. takes little girls and boys to can 2 fp cad appreciate it. Big ones like Jack and Jill laugh! The Indians made up that story to tell to their little boys and girls. Now /’ll tell you something. The “They are big yellow flowers”’22 YosEemMIteE NATIONAL PARK primroses in this valley open with a ‘pop’ when it gets dark. They are big yellow flowers and, after they have opened, they stay open all night, but when the sun comes the next morn- ing they are gone. The winds and they have wonderful dances during the night while people are asleep. Only the great grizzly bears could hear their bells ringing and watch them at their dances, but the grizzly bears are all dead now, so not even they can hear the soft music of their bells! Of course, a brown bear that isn’t dead yet or a big mule-eared deer may see them dancing—I can’t say as to that.” ‘Father,’ said Alice, running her hand up over his cheek, ‘don’t you suppose that a little girl like me could see them dance if she didn’t have to go to bed?”’ “No,” answered her father. ‘‘I don’t think so, but just because you liked the measuring-worm story, I am going to let you stay up to hear the primroses pop.”’ ‘“‘Oh-h-h! Good!”’ eried Alice with her arms tight around his neck. ‘George,’ asked his wife, “‘ what is that great split-looking rock above the falls?” ‘That is the wicked Indian woman who drank up all the water in Mirror Lake, so that there was none left for her poor husband, who was following along slowly behind her as they came down the mountain. He was enjoying the scenery, while she was carrying a great big basket full of heavy things. Maybe she thought she deserved all the water because she was doing all of the work, but her husband took a stick and beat her because she drank it all. That made her angry and she threw her basket at him and ran. No one had ever heard of an Indian woman doing such a thing to her husband. ““She was so surprised at herself for throwing her basket at her husband that she turned to stone. There she is, upPRIMROSES AND Rocks 23 there, right where she stopped. You can see the angry red tears running down her side. White men call that rock Half Dome. Her husband was so astonished at her act that he, too, turned to stone. He is the big dome across the valley from her, called South Dome. At his Courtesy Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway HALF DoME FROM MERCED RIVER “That great split-looking rock” feet is Basket Dome, which is, of course, the basket she threw.”’ “T have been figuring,” said Jack that evening. “That measuring worm had to hump himself 116,361 times in order to climb straight up El Capitan without any turns or twistings.”’ “You are too literal, Jack,’’ answered his uncle, shaking24 YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK his head. ‘‘The idea of using figures in connection with Indian legends!”’ “T read this afternoon about the measuring-worm legend,’’ said Mrs. Brown. “‘I found it in Mr. Hall’s Handbook of Yosemite National Park. As he gives it, the story is about a mother bear and her two cubs who were asleep on the rock when it rose up into the air. The measuring worm was so slow in reaching them that they starved to death. All the worm could do was to bring down the bones. This it did and the bears’ bones were burned here in the valley.” “How did the worm bring them down?” asked Jack. “Did he do them up in a khaki blanket and carry them on his hump?”’ ‘Well!’ exclaimed Mr. Brown in disgust. ‘‘The next time I want to tell Indian stories I certainly will not take this family along! No imagination at all!” “T beg your pardon, Uncle Dock,” laughed Jack. “I think that it takes a great deal of imagination to Improve on the Indian story—a blanket bundle on the worm’s hump, for instance!”’ “But that is just the trouble—your imagination is so crude!’’ answered his uncle. ‘‘ Modern so-called Indian leg- ends are always like that. A real legend is far more subtle. Most of the legends we hear these days are the modern sort, but the measuring-worm legend is different.’’ “Yes, I should think so,” said Jack. “It can’t even agree with itself!”’ “Probably there were two ways of telling the story,” answered Mr. Brown. ‘‘It is natural that there should have been some difference in the story as it was handed down in different families. It was not a written story, but was told as it was remembered. However, either way, the story is toldANIMAL ANTICS 25 with that touch which marks it as belonging to the age when story-telling was a fine art. The point of the story, if I must tell you, is that the despised measuring worm could do what the prouder animals could not do. He could climb a rock that is twice as high as Gibraltar and they could not.” ANIMAL ANTICS Alice was sitting on the floor, unlacing her shoes and singing, ‘‘ Mary had a little lamb.” ‘Listen, Alice,” called Jack, ‘‘that song is all out of date. It is the deer that follow the children to school these days. I just read about it in an old Stockton Record. I'll read it to you, but first I'll tell you—they have a schoolhouse here for the Government and hotel people’s children. One day the children were all studying and everything was Just as quiet as the night before Christmas when, click—click-click, sounded footsteps in the hallway. Dozens of little round faces with saucer-sized eyes and open mouths turned in that direction. Oh’s and Ah’s were mingled with giggles as the children spied three deer coming into the room! ““The animals looked once, twice, then clickety—clickety, clicked as fast as they could go down the hall and out through the open door. Now the children are asking for classes for the deer who want to go to school!’ “And,” said Jack as Alice laughed, “‘here is a new version of the Three Bears story. Listen! “