MEMORANDUM ON gontes from unj4 ti eastern 3nrhistan. BY T. D. FORSYTH, C.B., COMMISSIONER AND SUPERINTEN DENT, JULLUNDER DIVISION, PUNJAB. MEMORANDUM ON gaits from fj runiab to eastern Zurhistn. THE President of the Royal Geographical Society in his address at the last anniversary meeting of the Society has remarked on the grand and impassable mountain region lying between the Central Asiatic countries occupied by the Rus. sians and our great Empire of India, and the complete separation of India from Eastern Turkistan. Similar opinions regarding the. " impassable bulwork of the Himalayas and the mighty barrier of the Kuen Luen, whose mountains rise like a wall 17,000 feet high, with scarcely a crest or depression throughout the entire extent," have been given forth by writers at different times, but now they have received from the mouth of the learned President the fiat of authority, as he refers for a confirmation of his opinion to an article in the Edinburgh Review, which he tells us was written by an efficient public servant in India. Now if official information is to be quoted as the basis of opinions delivered ex-cathedra by so important a personage as the President of the Royal Geographical Society, it is necessary that such information should be correct. Whatever may be the opinion of writers at a distance, it is a fact well known to traders and officials on the spot, who have given their attention to the subject, that the Himalayan MEMORANDUM ON ROUTES FROM THE range so far from being impassable to traders or even armies has been already crossed by both, and abounds in easy routes hitherto perhaps but little frequented, owing not to any insurmountable physical difficulties, but to political or fiscal opposition, and now being opened to general traffic. The most valuable information on the subject of routes to Central Asia hitherto put forth is that contained in a letter and memorandum submitted by Captain Montgomerie, R.E., on the 20th July 1861, to the Punjab Government, and published in Mr. Davies' Report on Trade. The whole paper is well worth perusal, but the following extracts are given for convenience sake here :— " There are several routes from the Punjab to Eastern Turkistan,' but three only are ever likely to be available for traffic—the first is via Kashmir, and Leh; the second via Mundee, Kullu, and Leh ; the third via Simla, Garoo, and Iludok. The Kashmir route is either direct via Skardo or by Ladak ; the Mundee road starting from Noorpore, Umritsar, or Loo7 dianah goes by Kullu, and the Simla route either via Sooltanpore, Kull; and the Baralacha Pass, or by the Parung La (Pass), or avoids Ladak altogether traversing the Chinese territory, but all, except the latter, cross the Karakorum Pass." The most direct route to Yarkund, taking the sea at Kurrachee as the starting point, is that via Mooltan, Jhelum, Kashmir, and Skardo, but as pointed out by Captain Mont-gomerie, "it is not generally well adapted for traffic." " The next route via Jhelum, Kashmir, and Leh to Yarkund is, in Captain Montgomerie's opinion, not only the shortest but the best and cheapest route for traffic from the sea to the Eastern Turkistan.' From Jhelum to Leh (Ladak), the route through the mountains is better than any other that traverses the Himalayas ; the road between the plains and Leh crosses the Himalayan range by a very remarkable depression of only 11,300 feet, and none of the passes on it exceed 13,300 feet in height and they are, moreover, open for at least seven or eight months in the year, and could be crossed at any season in fine weather. There is PUNJAB TO EASTERN TURKISTAN. 5 moreover, between the plains and Leh but one or at the most two halting places without a village in the vicinity, in itself a very great advantage." The nexte rout in use is that via Mundee and Kullu. " The greater part of the traffic between the Punjab, Leh, and Turkistan is carried on by this road, and after the road via Kashmir and Leh, it is decidedly the best route from the Punjab to Eastern Turkistan, Yarkund, &c. though the passes between the Chenab (Chundra Bagha) and the Indus are very high on this route, yet the slopes are so easy that there is but little difficulty in crossing. The route is open for about five or six months, being nearly two months less than the Kashmir route. There are, moreover nine or ten marches over very elevated bleak mountain land without any villages. To the east of the Baralacha, there is no route well adapted for traffic with Eastern Turkistan." Captain Montgomerie then gives the following comparative distances by the three routes :- 161— Miles. To Mooltan by river ... ••• ••• ••• 750 Thence to Jhelum by river ••• ••• ..• 350 Jhelum to Kashmir ... ••• ••• .•• 192 Kashmir to Leh ,. . . ••• ..• 256 ••••••.••••• TOTAL .. 1,548 1M1.1111111•11•11.1•111011. 2n1— To Mooltan Thence to Lahore Lahore to Umritsar Umritsar to Sealkote Sealkote to Kashmir Kashmir to Leh ••• .•• ••• 750 ••• '••• ••• 300 es • ••• ••• 35 ... •.. . ••• 64 ••• ••• ••• 195 ••• .•. ••• 256 •• • ••• ••• 1•• • •• TOTAL ... 1,600 MEMORANDUM-ON ROUTES FROM THE 3rd— Miles. As above to Umritsar ... ..• ••• ... 1,085 Umritsar to Noorpore .. ••• ••• ••• 90 Noorpore to Mundee ... ••• ••• ... 112 Mundee to Sooltanpore ••• ••• .•• 36 ,. Sooltanpore to Leh ... ••• ••• ... 287 TOTAL ... 1,610 ."-sounom Taking Umritsar as the starting point, Captain Mont-gomerie gives the distance to Leh by the Kashmir route at 40 marches, or 515 miles, and by the Mundee route at 41 marches, or 525 miles over a very much more difficult country. But it was then pointed out that, owing to the heavy Customs duties in Kashmir, the Kuhn route was most frequented. Captain Montgomerie then remarks that " every endeavour should be made to improve the roads when a small outlay is likely to be effectual, and if possible camels should be taken as far as Kullu. The Kashmir road offers great facilities for allowing camels to pass, and a very small expenditure would be sufficient to make the present road passable for camels. The double humped camel has been brought to Leh several times, and it is capable of carrying burdens over the highest passes. Ladak itself offers but few obstacles to the passage of camels." According to the state of affairs as represented by Captain Montgomerie, Leh, the capital of Ladak, was the point farthest 'north to which he carried his comparison of routes, that place being the great market for exchange of goods between Central Asia and Hindoostan. And as is clearly:shownlby him, the choice lay between the route from Umritsar vitt Kashmir to;Leh, and that via Mundee-Kullu to Leh, the difference between these two routes being one PUNJAB TO EASTERN TURKISTAN. 7 march or 10 miles in favor of Kashmir in actual distance, besides crossing lower passes, and being open for many more months in the year. Moreover it was then the case that camels could be taken for 15 marches alono. the Kashmir route, and only 10 marches along the Kullu route. But since 1861 great changes have taken place, and it is proposed now to consider the comparative merits of the different routes to Yarkund. Taking Leh as still the great entrepot of Central Asian commerce, though it will be shown hereafter that this is likely to be changed, we may view the improvement made on each line. When Captain Montgomerie wrote, there was no Mooltan and Lahore Railway, aid his calculation of distances by water will have to be set aside. We may take Umritsar as our starting point, that being the chief emporium of trade, and we know that the Maharajah of Kashmir desires all trade to pass by Jummoo, and will give every facility to traders by that line. The road from Jummoo over the Bunuhal Pass to Kashmir is not so easy as that by Jhelum, though the pass to be crossed is lower. In a few years' time the railroad to Rawul Pindee will be opened, and possibly this may- cause some alteration in the point at which Kashmir is entered. As the Maharajah has lowered his duties, and perhaps ere long may abolish transit dues, it may be taken for granted that in a few years' time, fiscal considerations will have no weight in determining the line taken by traders. It may safely be predicted that there will be a vast increase of trade along this line, and perhaps the greater advantages of the Kashmir route with its frequent villages 8 MEMORANDUM ON ROUTE FROM THE may induce merchants to take that line in preference to another shorter one. As our object is to- extend trade without obtaining any monopoly or preference for any one route, every improvement made or facility offered by the Maharajah will be welcomed as proving the identity of his interests with ours. We may now review the improvement made or contemplated on the Kullu In the first place, a cart road is under construction throughout the whole length of the Kangra valley. At present it is only to extend to Palumpoi-e, but Wuzeer Goshaon, • the energetic Prime Minister of Mundee, is anxious to continue the road to the salt mines at Goomah, and this work, it is hoped, may be completed in a few years. Goomah is 16 marches from Umritsar. As the Itawul Pindee railroad has been thentioned, it is only fair to take into consideration the possibility of a railroad to Puthankot, the project for which is already under the consideration of the Government. From Goomah a new road over the Bubboo Pass ' has been made to Sooltanpore-Kullu through Mundee territory, thus saving one march of 15 miles. The road was originally intended only for mules, but the gradient is so easy that there will be no difficulty in taking camels over it, when it has been properly widened. Once in Kullu camels can travel with perfect ease up the Bias valley as far as Pulchan, the foot of the Rotang Pass, a distance of 23 marches from Umritsar. From rulchan to Leh, the road is passable for laden mules, and that portion through Lahoul is being improved with the slender funds placed at the district officer's disposal. Supplies are collected at every stage, and serais are being built at the most desolate halting places in British territory. PUNJAB TO EASTERN TTJRKISTAN. Thus instead of the Kashmir route being 10 miles shorter as formerly, it is now 5 miles longer, and instead of camels going 15 marches on the Kashmir route, and only 10 on the Kullu road, they will be able to go 23 marches on the latter road, or still better carts can be taken for 16 marches to Goomah. At present the rates of carriage hire are considerably lower by Kashmir than by Kullu, a difference of Rs. I or 14 shillings per horse load being in favor of the former road. ' This is owing chiefly to the exceptionally high rates charged in Lahoul, arising out of :the physical difficulties which formerly existed, but are now being removed. Formerly no laden animals could cross the Rotang Pass, and merchandize had to be transported on men's backs. When the trader reached Lahoul, he found himself at the mercy of the inhabitants, who fixed their own terms for the hire of cattle, and often subjected the traders to great annoyance. To such a degree did they carry their annoyance that ever since the road has been made passable for animals, they have tried to assert their right to the monopoly of carriage, and in many ways caused inconvenience to merchants. Arrangements have now been made for increasing the supply of carriage in Lahoul, and traders have been informed that no monopoly of carriage is allowable. But though improvements have been made on this road, there is still much left to be done, if we would see trade flowing throughout the line without any interruption. When the trade shall have acquired sufficient importance, if it be considered not to have attained that point already, it may be hoped that a proper staff of engineers may be appointed with suitable funds to render the small piece of road from the Rotang to the Lingtee, a distance of 10 marches, as feasible for traffic as the fin. 10 MEMORANDUM ON ROUTES FROM THE doostan and Tibet Road has been made. At the outside, the whole cost could not exceed half a lakh of rupees. From Lingtee, the boundary of British territory to Leh, the road passes over two easy sloping passes, 17,000 feet high, and crosses a large level plain. The road is perfectly practicable for laden animals, but would be of course improved if labor were applied to it every year. But we may now \ consider the effect produced on the different routes by opening out the line between Yarkund and Leh by the Changchemnoo valley, by which the Karakorum Passes are avoided. Regarding the advantages of this route over all others, we have not only the testimony of Mahamad Amin guide to Adolphe Schlagentweit, as also of Mr. Johnson, but this year the road has been thoroughly examined and reported on by Dr. Cayley, who has satisfied himself that as far as 'the head of the Karakash river, there is no obstacle whatever to the passage of camels and laden animals of all description. From. the Karakash to Yarkund, no diffl culties exist, and at a meeting of traders held in Leh in September 'last, the traders expressed an unanimous desire to see this route brought into general use. The Yarkund Vakeel who was at the, time in Leh, on his return to his own country, not only expressed his concurrence, but is now on his way to Yarkund by that route. Why a road so free from difficulties should have remained. closed so long, and why merchants should have been compelled to take the distressing and difficult route of the Karakorum has not been satisfactorily explained, but we may hope that in future it will be abandoned. And in any case we have established the fact beyond all controversy that the statement regarding the Kuen Luen range rising like a wall to separate PUNJAB TO EASTERN TURKISTAN. 11 Hindoostan from Turkistan without any depression is quite a fiction. With the prospect, then before us, of seeing this route opened to general traffic, I have just travelled over Ladak to ascertain whether shorter routes to Ilindoostan cannot be found than that which passes through Leh. Starting from Leh, the road to the Changchemnoo proceeds along the bed of the Indus in a south-easterly direction for two marches to Chimira, and then striking northwards across the Changla Pass 17,040 feet high, takes an easterly direction along the Tanskie valley to the Pangong Lake, six marches from Leh, where it enters ,soon afterwards to the Changchemnoo valley. Now a glance at the map will show that traders from }Endo' ostan coming by the Mundee-Kullu route* would reach the Changchemnoo and Leh route at 1Vlarshellin.g opposite to Chimira. But unless the object of the traders were to' go to Leh for the sake of changing carriage or for other purposes, I have ascertained by personal examination that a much shorter and remarkably easy route can be taken froth" the Pangong Lake to the Lingtee (Lahoul). This routet starts along the south bank of the Pangong Lake for 12 or 14 miles, and then passes , over broad undulating plains to the Indus, • along which it runs for about 15 miles till the village of Modh is reached at the end of the fourth march. A still shorter route to Modh from Chushul over an easy pass is indicated by Mahammed Amin as being passable for ponies. it Marked red on the map. t Marked blue on the accompanying map. Pangmik to Meyrick 1 Chushul ••• 2 Chagga ••• 3 Modh 064 ••• 4 / But if this line were taken, it would pass by Puga, and join the old line at Itukchin. 12 MEMORANDUM ON ROUTES FROM THE From Modh the new route would cross the Indus and reach the south of the Chomourire Lake in three marches. Thus far the road from Yarkund is perfectly practicable for camels ; grass, fuel, and water are to be found at every stage south of the Changchemnoo, and north of that line, we have Dr. Cayley's authority that at only one or at the most two stages are grass and fuel difficult to be procured. From the south of the ‘Chomourire Lake, the road would proceed westwards to the Pangbok Pass, not yet visited by me, but reported by the inhabitants of Roopshu and by traders who have crossed it to be very easy, and with a little expenditure of money and labor, it might be rendered completely passable for all animals.* Across the Pangbok, the road would be taken along the banks of the river Tsrap or Cherap for one march till it joined the Kullu and Leh road at Lingtee. This road from. the Chomourire is even now used for traffic at certain seasons of the year. * Since writing the above, I have perused Captain, now Major General, Cuning-ham's report on the boundaries between Ladak and British territory, and find that 21 years ago, he advocated opening out this same route. I give the following extract from his report "As there was a well trodden foot-path up the left bank of the Cherpa (or Tsrap), and as the Lahoules, who were with us, stoutly denied all knowledge of it, it seemed certain that this must be one of the principal routes used by the smugglers of shawl wool between Rudok and Lahoul. As we could obtain no information regarding this route, we determined to despatch a trustworthy party up the Cherpa, who should rejoin us at the Chomourire Lake, as we had little doubt that the route would end on the southern end of the Lake. On their return, the party reported that they had found a bridge five miles above the junction, and that the pathway was perfectly practicable even for laden animals, with the exception of an extensive landslip near the head of the Cherpa river. Several traders or shepherds' encampments were noticed on this route, where both grass and fuel were procurable in the neighbourhood of the river. They described the pass at the head of the river as being so easy that with a little labour, it might be readily made into a very good one. From thence after a short descent, the route ran over stony alluvial flats along one of the feeders of the Pam river, and over a low pass to the southern end of the Chomourire Lake, as we had anticipated. A glance at the map will show that this route leads directly from the shawl countries of Rudok and Gardok vitt Hanle and the Para and Cherpa rivers to the Lahoul boundary at Phalang danda. Were this route to be opened by the British Government, and a few Dhurinsalas or travellers' houses built at convenient distances, our traders in shawl wool from Noorpore and Rampore would be saved the heavy duties which are now levied by the Maharajah Golab Singh." PUNJAB TO EASTERN TITRKISTAN. 13 By this route, two high passes and five marches are saved between Lahoul, the extremity of British territory, and the Changchemnoo, and as merchants desire, as evinced this year at Leh, to trade direct with Yarkund, this route will be found most advantageous and cheap. At present the cost of hiring a horse to carry goods from Umritsar to Yarkund is Its. 72 to, * This may rate, ireducedhoped, Rs. 75.* Now, when camels can travel as be when the Changchemnoo route far as Pulchan, the foot of the Rotang on is brought into use. the south side, and as far as Kiundong, south of the Chomourire on the north side coming from Yarkund, there will be only 14 marches left for goods to be transported on ponies or yaks, even if the interests of the traders are not sufficiently important to justify the completion of the whole road throughout for camel traffic. The cost of freight may then be calculated' as follows :— Hire of camel to Pulchan, 23 marches ... Rs. 12 „ pony and porters to Chomourire, 14 marches „ 14 5) camel to Yarkund from 30 ,, 12 Rs. .. . 38 i. e., Rs. 38 for 4 maunds, instead of Rs. 72 for 3 maunds as at present. These rates, however, are conjectural, the hire of a camel in the plains of Hindoostan is not more than Rs. 8 per mensem for a load of 6 maunds; whereas here the calculation is at the rate of Rs. 12 to Its. 16 per mensem for 4 =ands. • It may be at once objected that the idea of camels being found for hire at the Chomourire or in Kullu is quite absurd, and looking at the present state of things, it would be of course out of the question. But all these proposals presuppose the establishment of commercial relations between Hindoostan and Central Asia on a proper footing, when it will be easy to arrange that the caravans from both ends shall meet and exchange their carriage. 14 MEMORANDUM ON ROUTES FROM THE At present there is one objection to this • line,—that supplies of grain are not to be had. This, however, is an evil easily capable of remedy. More grain is grown in Ladak and Spiti than suffices for the wants of the inhabitants, and this year, owing to the abolition of the oppressive restrictions formerly placed on the export of grain from Ladak, a large quantity has been taken to Rudok in Chinese Tartary. Now Rudok is much farther than the Pangong or Chomourire, and there can be no difficulty whatever in inducing the exporters to take their grain to either of these places, when once they are assured of a good market. A very common objection which arises in men's mind, and often finds expression in depreciation of the idea that any trade can flourish across these mountains, is derived from the fact that such high passes have to be crossed, such cold encountered, and such hardships endured in marching for many days without coming in sight of villages. But we are not writing for English merchants, who are accustomed to send their goods by rail, and travel themselves in comfortable' carriages. We have to deal with a nation accustomed to all the hardships and fatigue of long caravan journeys. And as everything goes by comparison, let us see what is the state of trade in other parts of Asia. No one doubts the vitality of the trade between Bokhara and Russia, or between Russia and China. Yet what is the description of the hardships undergone by merchants on these routes. I quote from Michell's Travels in Central Asia, page 489 :-- " Overcoming in this manner the obstacles which the barbarous Asiatics place in the way of the development of Russian trade, the natural impediments by which nature has cut Russia off from that rich Oasis watered by the Syr and Amu remain to be considered. The chief obstruction is presented by a vast extent of barren steppes traversed however by five principal routes, viz., 1st, from Khiva to Mangyshlak PUNJAB TO EASTERN TURKISTAN. 15 on the Caspian ; 2nd, from Khiva to the western shore of the Sea of Aral towards Orenburg ; 3rd, from Bokhara northwards to Orenburg; 4th, from Tashkend along the eastern border of the Kirghiz Steppe to Troitsk ; 5th, to Petrapavlosk ; of these the first named is the shortest, not exceeding 1,000 versts, but it passes through waterless regions infested by pillaging Turkmen, and is for these and other reasons unfrequented. The second route, which is 1,300 versts long, is open to much the same objections, and is therefore equally neglected. The third road that in ordinary use leads from Orenburg to Orsk, 225 versts, from thence to Fort No. I on the Syr Darla, 721 versts, offering a safe traversable road for vehicles ; further on, again to the Yang Dania river, about 200 versts, and lastly treads southwards through a completely waterless steppe for 300 versts, from whence to Bokhara there remains a distance of about 200 versts over sandy but less arid localities. The whole distance from Orenburg to Bokhara is' reckoned at 1,700 versts. From the fortress of Orsk to Bokhara, there are forty stages, and as many from Troitsk to Tashkend. Along this last route, good pasture for cattle is found. Still better, however, is the road from Tashkend to Petropovlosk, which is throughout the whole distance passable for wheel carriages, and though it extends across a barren steppe, wells are to be found along it. " The length of this road is 1,600 versts. It is only lately that certain kinds of goods arc transported from Russia into the steppe as far even as the banks of the Syr by means of oxen and carts. The ordinary mode of carrying goods is on camels, which animals are alone capable of supporting the want of water or of drinking water of bad quality, while they can also subsist on the prickly shrubs of the steppes. Goods are despatched by caravans, and only at those seasons of the year when snow hurricanes in winter, and the sultry heat and aridity of summer do not render the steppes impassable. Owing to these circumstances, only two caravans pass between Bokhara and Orenburg during the year, and the number of cattle and men forming the caravan is in proportion to the difficulties to be encountered on the journey. The number of beasts of burden in the caravan is also governed by the supply of water and pasture along the road. The route from Khiva to the Caspian has been abandoned on account of the scarcity of water and pasture. Caravans are from two to two and a half months performing the journey from Orenburg to Bokhara, and vice versa. The cost of transporting goods is from five to 16 MEMORANDUM ON ROUTES FROM THE fifteen roubles, or averaging ten roubles = E1-10 per camel carrying a load of sixteen puds or 576 lbs. avoirdupois. From Orenburg to Bokhara the price paid is 60 copecks per pud, or 5$. 8c1. per cwt." The following description of the extraordinary route by which tea is conveyed to Russia from China is taken from. Mr. Lumley's report :— "A. considerable proportion of the tea destined for the Kiachta overland market is sent direct from Hankow down the Yang-tse-Kiang to Shanghaie, some is also, sent from Foochow and Canton to Shanghaie ; but most of it is collected in the province of Fukien to the north-east of Canton, from whence it is despatched by land or water to Chuh-Chan. Thence it is conveyed by coolies in the manner described by Fortescue over the mountains to Kin-Chan. Here the tea is loaded in small boats, taking about 200 chests each; it is then conveyed 40 versts down a stream into the Chen-tang, where it is re-loaded into boats carrying 500 chests. Passirigi the town of Hankow, the boats emerge into the Eastern Sea, and coasting along reach the river Kisiang, up which they proceed to the town of Shanghaie. Here the tea is re-loaded into larger vessels carrying as much as 1,500 chests, besides other goods. These vessels after leaving Shanghaie proceed along the coast to Tientsin, which place they reach if the weather is favorable in about fifteen days.. " The tea is once more re-loaded at Tientsin into small boats taking about 200 chests, which follow the windings of the stream Barboe, and reach Tienshai, about 22 versts from Pekin, in the space of ten days. From this point, the tea is transported by land on camels and in bullock carts to the frontier fortress Changkea or Kalgan at the great wall, a distance of about 252 versts, and thence across the steppe or desert of Gobi, 1,282, to Kiachta. " The transport of tea from Fukien to Kiachta occupies two or three months according to circumstances." From Kiachta the winter route is by Selengisk and Verdne Ildinsk, and across Lake Baikal over the ice to Irkutsk, a journey of from seven to eight days. This winter route is generally available from the middle of January to the middle of April. Lake Baikal is 350 PUNJAB TO EASTERN TURKISTAN. 17 miles long and 40 miles broad ; there is occasionally great difficulty in crossing it in consequence of its surface being free from snow, as it is seldom completely frozen till the snow-fall has ceased. At Irkutsk, the capital of Eastern Siberia, part of the tea is retained for sale in that province, and of the January arrivals, a portion is forwarded to the fair at Irbit. At this fair, purchases are made for Western Siberia and for the Governments of Prem Kazan, Archangel, Orenburg, Viatka, and Vologda. The tea despatched in February to Tomsk generally remains there during the spring, at which time the roads are impassable, and in the month of. May, it is sent from Tomsk to Tiumen, partly by land, but chiefly by water, that is to say by the river Tom into the Ob, from the Ob into the Irkutsk, and thence into the Tara, by which stream it reaches Tiumen about the latter end of June. From Tiumen the tea is conveyed by land to Perm, a journey of about twelve days ; here it is loaded into craft on the Kama, down which river it is carried into the Volga at Kazan, and thence up the Volga to Nijni Novogrod, which Place it reaches about the end of July. Nijni is now connected with Moscow by railway, a journey for passengers of twelve hours. The transit from Kiachta to Nijni Novogrod often occupies six months, owing to the delays occasioned by the ice on the rivers, but it is some time performed in half the time. The distances by this route are as follows:— Versts. From Kiachta to Irkutsk ••• ••• 557 • Irkutsk to Tomsk ••• •• • 1,554 • Tomsk to Tiumen ••• 1,768 • Tiumen to Kazan ••• ••• 1,236 • Kazan to Moscow ••• ••• 821 TOTAL ... 5,936=4,452 miles. c 18 MEMORANDUM ON ROUTES FROM THE The distance from the tea-growing districts to Kiachta is reckoned at 500 versts, making a total of 10,936 versts7,291 miles, which the caravan tea has to traverse before it reaches the Moscow market. We are told by Mr. Lumley on the authority of General Kryzanowski that, in consequence of the Tungani insurrection in Chinese (Eastern) Turkistan, and the trade between China and Kashgar being stopped, Central Asia had to go without tea. Some of the enterprising Tashkend merchants, however, ordered large supplies from the fair at Irbit, a distance of 3,000 versts Now from the foregoing extracts, it will be seen that caravans are from two to two and a half months' journey between Bokhara and Orenburg, and cross three large deserts. Between Yarkund and Palumpore, where the fair may be taken. to correspond with that at Orenburg, the journey by the route just indicated will take 55 days, and as 'caravans would only p' ass during the summer months, when all the snow would have, disappeared from the passes traversed, no inconvenience from cold would be felt, and for the rest, there is more water, fodder, and fuel to be found on this route than is to be had on the Bokhara and Orenburg line. .It has been said that the road over the Himalayas is only traversable for a short time each year, but so also we find 'it to be the case on the Russian line, and -there is no reason why we should demand impossibilities for our route, or abandon it because we cannot effect what is contrary to custom. The case as regards tea is still more remarkable. From Kangra to Yarkund is only a journey of two months, just about as long as the tea takes to reach Shanghaie from the Chinese plantations ; from Yarkund to Taslikend the journey takes 20 days, and yet owing to our want of proper inter.. PITN,TAB TO EASTERN TTIRICISTAIst. 19 communication with Russia, the merchants of Tashkend had to get their tea vi Irbit, a distance of 5,000 miles, whereas they might have got it direct from Kangra or Hindoostan, a distance of less than 1,000 miles. A word too may be said on the subject of the great bar tier which a mountain, 17,000 feet high, is supposed to offer to trade. Such a remark can only be made by a person wholly unacquainted with the Himalayas. All who have travelled in these regions know that, with the exception of the Rotang, the lowest pass of all the other passes are approached by long easy inclines over the Rotang ; a mule road Las been made, and may be still further improved as the increase of traffic shall demand it. There is no intention in putting forward this paper of endeavouring to create a prepossession in favor of this Himalayan route over the more popular and easy route via Affgha-nistan. - But there is this one present advantage in favor of this mountain line, that no hostile countries have to be cross- ed. As soon as Kashmir territory is left, the caravans reach Yarkund, the ruler of which country "would gladly enter into close relations of friendship with us, and only a few days ago a letter from a tea planter appeared in one of the Indian newspapers, lamenting that, although such excellent prices were to be had for these teas if they could only reach the Russian frontier, this was impossible via Affghanistan, owing to the present unsettled state of affairs and the utter absence of all protection of British interests. Had the Indian tea planter known of this route now pointed out, he might have sent off his teas and realised the high profits, which he says await his grasp. Briefly to summarise the improvements which have taken place since Mr. Davies' report of 1863 was published. Then 20 MEMORANDUM ON ROUTES FROM THE the chief obstacles to trade were the heavy duties levied by the Maharajah of Kashmir at Leh and on the frontier of the Punjab, the difficult route over the Karakorum, and, the insecurity of the road between- Leh and Yarkun.cl. also the rugged and ed and uninviting character of the road between thd. Punjab and Leh viA,31undee and Kullu. Still with all these .,,difficulties and restrictions, as remarked by Captain ' Mont-gom.erie, from time immemorial, there has alway-s been a trade between Hindoostan and Eastern Turkisian, and the wonder is not that the trade should have diminished, but that it *should still survive. Since then we have seen the following improvements effected. The Customs duties of the Kashmir Government have been reduced to an uniform rate of 5 per cent. ad valorem, and all obnoxious cesses and exactions have been abolished. The Maharajah has opened out the route through his territory, and by establishing fairs at Jumm.00 and Leh has given great inducements to traders to frequent th'e Ladak market.. It has been*satisfaciorily shown that an easy, safe, and expeditious route free from obstacles exists, and can be .used at once, between Yarkund and Ladak, and if a comparatively trifling expense be incurred, this road can be continued over the Pangbok Pass to British territory, and thus the passage of caravans between Hindoostan and Turkistan will be accomplished with at least as much ease as can be performed by caravans between Bokhara and Orenburg. Further, we have in our favor the openly announced desire of the ruler and people of Yarkund to trade with us, and their very urgent demand for tea, of which the nearest point of supply is reached much more quickly by the Munclee-Kullu route than by any other. Seeing that the PUNJAB TO EASTERN TURKISTAN. 21 Kangra tea plantations are only 55 clays distant from Yarkund, where Rs. .4=8., shillings per lb., are readily given for inferior kinds of tea ; whereas Calcutta is the next nearest point for China teas to be procured for the Turkistan market, it may be hoped that the Kangra planters will not. be slow to hvail themselves of the advantages now offered them. No mention has been made by Mr. Davies or Captain Montgomerie of the route to Yarkund and Kashgar from reshaw-ui 'via Qhitral,, which some writers suppose must supeisede all other Jiiles. As this route passes through countries infested with fanatical tribes always hostiles:to,:and at present in antagonism with, the British power, it may be time enough for us to discuss the comparative merits of the different routes when they are all equally °open. But in addition to the testimony of 1Vlaham_ad Amin, who describes the Chitral route as the easiest - of all, except the Changchemnoo, I may mention a fact within my &sin cognizance. For several days on my journey to Leh, I was accompanied by two merchants, Natives of Boneir, who told me that they had formerly traded by the Chitral route, but last %year hearing in Yarkund of the facilities offered to traders by the Ladak route, they came that way. They are now returning by it, and said' the superiority of this line was so great that they should always adopt it henceforth. T. DOUGLAS FORSYTH. 21st September 1868. Printed at the Govt. Branch Press, Simla.716-10-68. 73 i8 141 B orb. cp. -=--;••••:::-z' If • Reria 4750 -7,o Illustrate Memorandum By. T. D. FORSYTH C. B. • c„,,} / 41 /pc -••••••••219W •••-• •-••••* 0- 0 20 6 ';45 t 4.•„=•', ft • ---,34x1^7:.*z • .1w roue Yew. /11.teivIalive i• arrnzmis. MozuffeTabad 34 Rawal ) • 6,;.• \ t•-4f.•-•-3; 7-"•- t 33 Fkk\s-,•::,1\-' ti az A HO RE an, Neer • t'1.41151.11/1 •-•-• 4)) 1 t II /". ji/ Iii/P1/11W 31 Note - Tizie Arc?, i.s. a. egiy ar Me Ara" oe Tarici.rialt publzehed Sy Ike 6-'..7. 'Sur v43rDcarwitia. Wrredi;9,4r izZony tieepropoecke roed4t le, Yezekand. Quorsierilootreti-eneraji 0/1%z aVirart, 2 ',16 irovem4. /ties 74 75 7 6 7 7 78 79 80 Mr, Gents Offio,e — ?Ulla TO tASTIEIN TURNIVAN. 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