ESKIMO LIEE BY THE SAME AUTHOR THE EIRST CROSSING OF GREENLAND With numerous Illustrations and a Jfcp Cheap Edition. Crown 8vo. 7$. Gd London: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. and NEW YORK: 15 EAST lGth STREET A HUNTER, HIS WIFE, AND A YOUNG GIRL (WEST COAST OF GREENLAND) ESKIMO LIFE BY FBLDTJOF NANSEN AUTHOR OF ' THE FIRST CROSSING OF GREENLAND ' TRANSLATED BY WILLIAM ARCHER WITH ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON LONGMANS, GEE EN, AND 0 0. AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16"' STREET 1893 All rights reserved TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE. Before placing his ' Eskimoliv ' in my hands for translation, Dr. Nansen very carefully revised the text, and made numerous excisions and additions. Thus the following pages will be found to differ in several particulars from the Norwegian original. I also requested and received Dr: Nansen's permission to suppress one or two especially nauseous details of Eskimo manners, which seemed to have no particular ethnological significance. The excisions made on this score, however, probably do not amount to half a page in all. Dr. Nansen suggested that I should follow the example of Dr. Kink in his ' Tales and Traditions of the Eskimo,' and treat the word ' Eskimo ' as in declinable. I have ventured, however, to overrule VI ESKIMO LIFE his suggestion. There is precedent for both ' Eskimo and ' Eskimos ' as the plural form ; and where there is any choice at all, it seems only rational to prefer the regular declension. In Chapters XIII. and XIV. Dr. Nansen naturally makes numerous references to that great storehouse of Greenland folk-lore, Dr. Eink's ' Eskimo Sagn og Eventyr,' which has been translated and condensed by the author himself, under the above-mentioned title. Where it was possible, I have given the reference to the English edition ; but in cases where the text has been very freely condensed or expur gated, I have referred to the Danish original as well. Even where I have not done so, students of folk-lore may be advised to go back to the original text, which is often fuller and more characteristic than the English version. W. A. AUTHOR'S PREFACE, Eoe one whole winter we were cut off from the world and immured among the Greenlanders. I dwelt in their huts, took part in their hunting, and tried, as well as I could, to live their life and learn their lan guage. But one winter, unfortunately, is far too short a time in which to attain a thorough knowledge of so peculiar a people, its civilisation, and its ways of thought — that would require years of patient study. Nevertheless, I have tried in this book to record the impressions made upon me by the Eskimo and his polity, and have sought, as far as possible, to support them by quotations from former authors. There may even be things which a newcomer sees more clearly than an observer of many years' stand ing, who lives in their midst. On many points, perhaps, the reader may not viii ESKIMO LIFE think as I do. I cannot, it is true, find that whatever is is very good; I am weak enough to feel compassion for a declining race, which is perhaps beyond all help, since it is already stung with the venom of our civilisation. But I comfort myself with the thought that at least no words of mine can make the lot of this people worse than it is, and I hope that the reader will accept my observations in the spirit in which they are written. Amicus Plato, amicus Socrates, magis arnica Veritas — the truth before everything. And if in some points I should appear unreasonable, I must plead as my excuse that it is scarcely possible to live for any time among these people without conceiving an affection for them — for that, one winter is more than enough. During the long, dark evenings, as I sat in the low earth-huts and gazed at the flame of the train-oil lamps, I had ample time for reflection. It often seemed to me that I could see these hardy children of Nature pressing westward, stage by stage, in their dog-sledges and in their wonderful skin-canoes, along the barren ice-coasts ; I saw how they fought their way onward, and, little by little, perfected their in- AUTHOR'S PREFACE IX genious implements and attained their masterly skill in the chase. Hundreds, nay thousands, of years passed, tribe after tribe succumbed, while other and stronger stocks survived — and I was filled with ad miration for a people which had emerged victorious from the struggle with such inhospitable natural surroundings. But in melancholy contrast to this inspiriting picture of the past, the present and the future rose before my eyes — a sad, a hopeless mist. In Greenland the Eskimos fell in with Europeans. First it was our Norwegian forefathers of the olden times ; them they gradually overcame. But we re turned to the charge, this time bringing with us Christianity and the products of civilisation ; then they succumbed, and are sinking ever lower and lower. The world passes on with a pitying shrug of the shoulders. ' What more can one say ? Who's a penny the worse Though a beggar be dead ? ' But this people, too, has its feelings, like others ; it, too, rejoices in life and Nature, and bleeds under our iron heel. If anyone doubts this, let him X ESKIMO LIFE observe their sympathy with one another, and their love for their children : or let him read their legends. Whenever I saw instances of the suffering and misery which we have brought upon them, that remnant of a sense of justice which is still to be found in most of us stirred me to indignation, and I was filled with a burning desire to send the truth reverberating over the whole world. Were it once brought home to them, I thought, people could not but awaken from their indifference, and at once make good the wrong they had done. Poor dreamer ! You have nothing to say which has not been better said before. The hapless lot of the Greenlanders, as well as of other ' native ' races, has been set forth on many hands, and always without avail. But, none the less, I felt I must unburden my conscience ; it seemed to me a sacred duty to add my protest to the rest. My pen, unhappily, is all too feeble : what I feel most deeply I have failed to express : never have I longed more intensely for a poet's gifts. I know very well that my voice too AUTHOR'S PREFACE xi will be as a cry sent forth over a flat expanse of desert, without even mountains to echo it back. My only hope is to awaken here and there a feeling of sympathy with the Eskimos and of sorrow for their destiny. FEIDTJOF NANSEN. GODTHAAB, LYSAKER : November 1891. CONTENTS. CHAP. \ PAGK I. GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO ..... 1 *U. APPEARANCE AND DRESS . . . . . 18 III. THE • KAIAK ' AND ITS APPURTENANCES ... 30 IV. THE ESKIMO AT SEA . . . . 56 J. WINTER-HOUSES, TENTS, WOMAN-BOATS, AND EXCURSIONS 78 VI. COOKERY AND DAINTIES 89 iii. CHARACTER AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS . . 100 Villi THE POSITION AND WORK OF WOMEN . . . 121 IXA LOVE AND MARRIAGE ... . .138 X. MORALS ... ... .157 "XI. JUDICIAL PROCEEDINGS — DRUM-DANCES AND ENTER TAINMENTS . . . . . . . .186 XII. MENTAL GIFTS ART MUSIC POETRY ESKIMO NARRA TIVES ......... 193 XIII. RELIGIOUS IDEAS • 209 _ XIV. VTHE INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY . . . ¦ 301 XV. EUROPEANS AND NATIVES . . ¦ 313 , XVW WHAT HAVE WE ACHIEVED 1 327 XVII.^^CONCLUSION . • .341 LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS. PLATES. A Hunter, his Wife, and a Young Girl (West Coast of Greenland) .... Frontispiece ' The Boundless Snow-Fields stretching Calm and White from Sea to Sea' . . to face page 2 Covering a Kaiak . . . „ ,, 32 'The Head turned Half Backwards to watch the Seas ' . . . „ ,, 58 Seaward in Search of Seals . . . . „ - „ 60 Seal-hunting . ...,,,, 62 Before the Wind . .... „ „ 66 A Kaiak-Man rescuing a Comrade ,, „ 68 A Kaiak-Man attacked by a Walrus . „ „ 74 Halibut-Fishing >> 76 An Eskimo Camp ,, „ 84 A Summer Journey ¦ . „ „ 86 Fishing . . , ,. 114 A Greenland Dance ... • • „ ,. 190 A Fiord Landscape on the East Coast (at Tingmiarmiut) ... « 328 Northern Lights — ' The Dead at Play ' ,, 348 Greenland Indoor Dress (East Coast) — (1) Male Costume ; (2) Female Costume . . .26 Bladder-dart . . . ... 34 Harpoon . . . . 36 The Head of the Harpoon . . .37 Lance ... ... . . .39 Throwing-stick with Bird-dart 40 The Bird-dart Thrown . . . .42 Throwing-stick with Harpoon . . . .43 Kaiak, seen fkom above . ..... 44 Kaiak-frame . . . 44 Section of the Kaiak . .... 47 Paddle .... . 40 Half-Jacket . . go, Whole-Jacket . . . 50 Eskimo Venus and Apollo . . . igc) ESKIMO LIFE CHAPTEE I GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO Greenland is in a peculiar manner associated with Norway and with the Norwegians. Our forefathers were the first Europeans who found their way to its shores. In their open vessels the old Vikings made their daring voyages, through tempests and drift-ice, to this distant land of snows, settled there throughout several centuries, and added it to the domain of the Norwegian crown. After the memory of its existence had practically passed away, it was again one of our countrymen 1 who, on behalf of a Norwegian company, founded the second European settlement of the country. It is poor, this land of the Eskimo, which we have taken from him ; it has neither timber nor gold to offer us — it is naked, lonely, Uke no other land 1 Hans Egede. Trans. B 2 ESKIMO LIFE inhabited of man. But in all its naked poverty, how beautiful it is ! If Norway is glorious, Greenland is in truth no less so. When one has once seen it, how dear to him is its recollection ! I do not know if others feel as I do, but for me it is touched with all the dream-like beauty of the fairyland of my childish imagination. It seems as though I there found our own Norwegian scenery repeated in still nobler, purer forms. It is strong and wild, this Nature, like a saga of antiquity carven in ice and stone, yet with moods of lyric delicacy and refinement. It is like cold steel with the shimmering colours of a sunlit cloud playing through it. When I see glaciers and ice-mountains, my thoughts fly to Greenland where the glaciers are vaster than anywhere else, where the ice-mountains jut into a sea covered with icebergs and drift-ice. When I hear loud encomiums on the progress of our society, its great men and their great deeds, my thoughts revert to the boundless show-fields stretch ing white and serene in an unbroken sweep from sea to sea, high over what have once been fruitful valleys and mountains. Some day, perhaps, a similar snow-field will cover us all. Everything in Greenland is simple and great white snow, blue ice, naked, black rocks and peaks, \ 'the boundless snow-fields stretching calm and white' from sea to sea' GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO 3 and dark stormy sea. When I see the sun sink glowing into the waves, it recalls to me the Green land sunsets, with the islets and rocks floating, as it were, on the burnished surface of the smooth, softly- heaving sea, while inland the peaks rise row on row, flushing in the evening light. And sometimes when I see the sseter-life1 at home and watch the saster- girls and the grazing cows, I think of the tent-life and the reindeer-herds on the Greenland fiords and uplands ; I think of the screaming ptarmigan, the moors and willow-copses, the lakes and valleys in among the mountains where the Eskimo lives through his brief summer. But like nothing else is the Greenland winter- night with its flaming northern lights ; it is Nature's own mystic spirit-dance. Strange is the power which this land exercises over the mind ; but the race that inhabits it is not less remarkable than the land itself. The Eskimo, more than anyone else, belongs to the coast and the sea. He dwells by the sea, upon it he seeks his subsistence, it gives him all the necessaries of his life, over it he makes all his journeys, whether in his skin-canoes in summer, or in his dog-sledges when it is ice-bound in winter. The sea is thus the strongest influence in the life of 1 Saeter = mountain chalet. Trans. b 2 4 ESKIMO LIFE the Eskimo ; what wonder, then, if his soul reflects its moods? His mind changes with the sea — grave in the storm; in sunshine and calm full of unfettered glee. He is a child of the sea, thought lessly gay like the playful wavelet, but sometimes dark as the foaming tempest. One feeling chases another from his childlike mind as rapidly as, when the storm has died down, the billows sink to rest, and the very memory of it has passed away. The good things of life are very unequally divided in this world. To some existence is so easy that they need only plant a bread-fruit tree in their youth, and their whole life is provided for. Others, again, seem to be denied everything except the strength to battle for life ; they must laboriously wring from hostile Nature every mouthful of their sustenance. They are sent forth to the outposts, these people ; they form the wings of the great army of humanity in its constant struggle for the subjuga tion of nature. Such a people are the Eskimos, and among the most remarkable in existence. They are a living proof of the rare faculty of the human being for adapting himself to circumstances and spreading over the face of the earth. The Eskimo forms the extreme outpost towards the infinite stillness of the regions of ice, and as far GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO 5 almost, as we have forced our way to the north ward, we find traces left behind them by this hardy race. The tracts which all others despise he has made his own. By dint of constant struggle and slow development, he learnt some things that none have learnt better. Where for others the conditions which make life possible came to an end, there life began for him. He has come to love these regions ; they are to him a world in which he himself embodies the whole of the human race.1 Outside their limits he could not exist. It is to this people that the following pages are devoted. The mutual resemblance of the different tribes of Eskimos is no less striking than their difference from all other races in features, figure, implements and weapons, and general manner of life. A pure-bred Eskimo from Bering Straits is so like a Greenlander that one cannot for a moment doubt that they belong to the same race. Their language, too, is so far alike that an Alaska Eskimo and a Greenlander would probably, after some little time, be able to converse without much difficulty. 1 The Eskimos call themselves muit— that is to say, 'human beings ' ; all other men they conceive as belonging to a different genus of animals. ESKIMO LIFE Captain Adrian Jacobsen, who has travelled both in Greenland and in Alaska, told me that in Alaska he could manage to get along with the few words of Eskimo he had learnt in Greenland. These two peoples are divided by a distance of about 3,000 miles — something like the distance between London and Afghanistan. Such unity of speech among races so widely separated is probably unique in the history of mankind. The likeness between all the different tribes of Eskimos, as well as their secluded position with respect to other peoples, and the perfection of their implements, might be taken to indicate that they are of a very old race, in which everything has stiffened into definite forms, which can now be but slowly altered. Other indications, however, seem to conflict with such a hypothesis, and render it more probable that the race was originally a small one, which did not until a comparatively late period develop to the point at which we now find it, and spread over the countries which it at present inhabits. If it should seem difficult to understand, at first sight, how they could have spread in a comparatively short time over these wide tracts of country without moving in great masses, as in the case of larger migrations, we need only reflect that their present inhospitable abiding-places can scarcely have been GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO 7 inhabited, at any rate permanently, before they took possession of them, and that therefore they had nothing to contend with except nature itself. The region now inhabited by the Eskimos stretches from the west coast of Bering Straits over Alaska, the north coast of North America, the North Ameri can groups of Arctic Islands, the west coast, and, finally, the east coast, of Greenland. By reason of his absolutely secluded position, the Eskimo has given the anthropologists much trouble, and the most contradictory opinions have been ad vanced with reference to his origin. Dr. H. Eink, who has made Greenland and its people the study of his life, and is beyond compari son the greatest authority on the subject, holds that the Eskimo implements and weapons — at any rate, for the greater part — may be traced to America. He regards it as probable that the Eskimos were once a race dwelling in the interior of Alaska, where there are still a considerable number of inland Es kimos, and that they have migrated thence to the coasts of the ice-sea. He further maintains that their speech is most closely connected with the primitive dialects of America, and that their legends and customs recall those of the Indians. One point among others, however, in which the Eskimos differ from the Indians is the use of dog- 8 ESKIMO LIFE sledges. With the exception of the Incas of Peru, who used the llama as a beast of burden, no Ameri can aborigines employed animals either for drawing or for carrying. In this, then, the Eskimos more resemble the races of the Asiatic polar regions. But it would lead us too far afield if we were to follow up this difficult scientific question, on which the evidence is as yet by no means thoroughly sifted. So much alone can we declare with any assurance, that the Eskimos dwelt in comparatively recent times on the coasts around Bering Straits and Bering Sea — probably on the American side — and have thence, stage by stage, spread eastward over Arctic America to Greenland. It is in my judgment impossible to determine at what time they reached Greenland and permanently settled there. From what has already been said it appears probable that the period was comparatively late, but it does not seem to me established, as has been asserted in several quarters, that we can con clude from the Icelandic sagas that they first made their appearance on the west coast of Greenland in the fourteenth century. It certainly appears as though the Norwegian colonies of Osterbygd and Vesterbygd (i.e. Easter- and Wester-district or settlement) were not until that period exposed to serious attacks on the part of the 'Skrellings' or GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO 9 Eskimos, coming in bands from the north ; but this does not preclude the supposition that they had occupied certain tracts of the west coast of Green land long before that time and long before the Norwegians discovered the country. They do not seem to have been settled upon the southern part of the coast during the first four hundred years of the Norwegian occupation, since they are not men tioned in the sagas ; but it is expressly stated that the first Norwegians (Erik the Eed and others) who came to the country, found both in the Easter- and the Wester-districts ruins of human habitations, fragments of boats, and stone implements, which in their opinion must have belonged to a feeble folk, whom they therefore called ' Skrellings ' (or ' weaklings '). We must accordingly conclude that the ' Skrellings ' had been there previously ; and as such remains were found in both districts, it seems that they could scarcely have paid mere passing visits to them. It is not impossible that the Eskimos might simply have taken to their heels when the Norwegian viking-ships appeared in the offing; we, too, found them do so upon the east coast ; but it does not seem at all probable that they could vanish so rapidly as to let the Norwegians catch no glimpse of them. The probability is, on the whole, that at that time the permanent settle- 10 ESKIMO LIFE ments of the Eskimos were further north on the coast, above the 68th degree of north latitude, where seals and whales abound, and where they would first arrive on their course from the northward x (see p. 13). Erom these permanent settlements they pro bably, in Eskimo fashion, made frequent excursions of more or less duration to the more southerly part of the west coast, and there left behind them the traces which were first found. When the Nor wegian settlers began to range northwards they at last came in contact with the Eskimos. Professor G. Storm2 is of opinion that this must first have happened in the twelfth century.3 We read in the ' Historia Norvegias ' that the hunters in the un settled districts of north Greenland came upon an undersized people whom they called ' Skrellings,' and who used stone knives and arrow-points of whalebone. As their more northern settlements became over-populated, the Eskimos no doubt began to migrate southwards in earnest ; and as the Nor wegians often dealt hardly with them when they 1 North of the 68th degree they could kill seals and whales in plenty from the ice all the winter through ; and this is a method of hunting which they must have learnt further north, where it would be the most important of all for them. 2 Gustav Storm : Studies on the Vineland Voyages, Extracts from Memoires de la Societe Roy ale des Antiquaires du Nord, 1888, p. 53 . 3 The Eskimos themselves have several legends as to their en counters with the old Norsemen. See Rink : Tales and Traditions of the Eskimo, pp. 308-321. GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO n met, they may eventually have taken revenge in the fourteenth century by first (after 1341) attacking and devastating (?) the Wester-district, and later (1379) making an expedition against the Easter- district, which seems in the following century to have been entirely destroyed.1 It was about this time, accordingly, that the Eskimos probably effected their first permanent settlements in the southern parts of the country. There is evidence in the Eskimo legends as well of the battles between them and the old Norsemen. But from the same legends we also learn that there was sometimes friendly intercourse between them ; indeed the Norsemen are several times mentioned with esteem. This appears to show that there was no rooted hatred between the two races ; and the theory that the Eskimos carried on an actual war of extermination against the settlers seems, moreover, in total conflict with their character as we now know 1 Some writers have concluded from the mention of troll- women ' in the ' Floamannasaga ' that so early as the year 1000, or there abouts, Thorgils Orrabeinsfostre must have encountered Eskimos on the south-east coast of Greenland. But, as Professor Storm has pointed out, the romantic character of this saga forbids us to base any such inference upon it. It must also be remembered that the extant manuscript dates from no earlier than about 1400, long after the time when the Norsemen had come in contact with the Eskimos on the west coast. Even if the Eskimos are meant in the passage about the troll-women, which is extremely doubtful, it may very well be a late interpolation. 12 ESKIMO LIFE it. Thus it can scarcely have been such a war alone that caused the downfall of the colony. We may, perhaps, attribute it partly to natural decline due to seclusion from the world, partly to absorption of the race, brought about by the crossing of the two stocks ; for the Europeans of that age were probably no more inaccessible than those of to-day to the seductions of Eskimo loveliness. As to the route by which the Eskimos made their way to the west coast of Greenland there has been a good deal of difference of opinion. Dr. Eink maintains that after passing Smith's Sound the Eskimos did not proceed southwards along the west coast, which would seem their most natural course, but turned northwards, rounded the northernmost point of the country, and came down along the east coast. In this way they must ultimately have approached the west coast from the southward, after making their way round the southern extremity of Greenland. This opinion is mainly founded upon the belief that Thorgils Orrabeinsfostre fell in with Eskimos upon the east coast, and that this was the Norsemen's first encounter with them. I have already, in a note on the preceding page, remarked on the untrustworthiness of this evidence ; and such a theory as to the route of the Eskimo immigration stands, as we know, in direct conflict with the ac- GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO 13 counts given in the sagas, from which it appears (as above) that the Eskimos came from the north and not from the south, the Wester-district havino- been destroyed before the Easter-district. It appears, moreover, that we can draw the same conclusion from an Eskimo tradition in which their first en counter with the old Norsemen is described. In former days, we are told, when the coast was still very thinly populated, a boatful of explorers came into Godthaab-fiord and saw there a large house whose inhabitants were strange to them, not being Kaladlit — that is, Eskimo. They had suddenly come upon the old Norsemen. These, on their side, saw the Kaladlit for the first time, and treated them in the most friendly fashion. This happened, it will be observed, in Godthaab-fiord, which was in the ancient Wester-district — that is to say, the more northern colony. There is another circumstance which, to my thinking, renders improbable the route conjectured by Dr. Eink, and that is that if they made their way around the northern extremity of the country, they must, while in these high latitudes, have lived as the so-called Arctic Highlanders — that is, the Eskimos of Cape York and northwards — now do ; in other words, they must have subsisted chiefly by hunting upon the ice, must have travelled in dog- sledges, and, while in the far north, must have used 14 ESKIMO LIFE neither kaiaks nor woman-boats, since the sea, being usually ice-bound, offers little or no opportunity for kaiak -hunting or boating of any sort. It may not be in itself impossible that, when they came further south and reached more ice-free waters again, they may have recovered the art of building woman-boats and kaiaks, of which some tradition would in any case survive ; but it seems improbable, not to say im possible, that after having lost the habit of kaiak- hunting they should be able to master it afresh, and to develop it, and all the appliances belonging to it, to a higher point of perfection than had elsewhere been attained. The most natural account of the matter, in my opinion, is that the Eskimos, after crossing Smith's Sound (so far there can be no doubt about their route), made their way southwards along the coast, and subsequently passed from the west coast, around the southern extremity of the country, up the east coast. It is impossible to determine whether they had reached the east coast and settled there be fore the Norsemen came to Greenland. On their southward journey from Smith's Sound they must, indeed, have met with a great obstacle in the Melville glacier (at about 77° north latitude), which stands right out into the sea at a point at which the coast is for a long distance unprotected by GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO 15 islands. But, in the first place, they may have been able to make their way onward in the lee of the drift-ice ; and, in the second place, this difficulty is at worst not so great as those they must have en countered in passing round the northern extremity of Greenland. Moreover, the passage in an open boat from Smith's Sound southward along the west coast of Greenland to the Danish colonies has been several times accomplished in recent years without any par ticular difficulty. In opposition to this theory it may, no doubt, be alleged that the East Greenlanders possess dog-sledges, which are not used on the southern part of the west coast, where there is not enough ice for them. But if we remember with what rapidity, comparatively speaking, the Eskimos travel in their women-boats, and how fond they were in former times of roaming up and down along the coast — and when we take into account the fact that from time immemorial dogs have been kept along the whole of the west coast — this objection seems to lose its weight. The Eskimos are at present spread over the whole west coast of Greenland, right from Smith's Sound to Cape Farewell. On the Danish part of the west coast they number very nearly 10,000. On the east coast, as we learn from the account of the Danish woman-boat expedition of 1884-85, under Captain 16 ESKIMO LIFE Holm, there are Eskimos as far north as the Ang- magsalik district (66° north latitude), their numbers in the autumn of 1884 being in all 548. Further north, as the Eskimos told Captain Holm, there were no permanent settlements so far as they knew. They often, however, made excursions to the northward, pos sibly as far as to the 68th or 69th degree of latitude ; and a year or two before two woman-boats had sailed in that direction, and had never been heard of again. It is uncertain whether there may not be Eskimos upon the east coast further north than the 70th de gree of latitude. Clavering is known to have found one or two families of them in 1823 at about 74° north latitude ; but since that time none have been seen; and the German expedition which explored that coast in 1869-70, and wintered there, found houses and other remains, but no people, and there fore assumed that they must have died out. The Danish expedition of 1890 to Scoresby Sound, under Lieutenant Eyder, reports the same experience. It therefore seems probable that they have either died out or have abandoned this part of Greenland. This does not seem to me absolutely certain, however. There may be small and confined Eskimo colonies in these northern districts, or there may be a few no madic families whom no one has as yet come across. This portion of the east coast must, in my opinion, GREENLAND AND THE ESKIMO 17 be quite specially adapted for Eskimo habitation, as it is very rich in game. It therefore seems to me strange that when once the Eskimos had arrived there they should have gone away again ; nor does it seem probable that they would die out in so excel lent a hunting-ground. If there are Eskimos upon this north-east coast, their secluded position, debar ring them from all intercourse, direct or indirect, with the outer world, must render them, from an ethnological point of view, among the most interest ing people in existence. 18 ESKIMO LIFE CHAPTEE II appearance and dress t As I now sit down to describe these people, at such a distance from them and from the scenery amid which we lived together, how vividly my first meeting with them, upon the east coast of Greenland, stands be fore my mind's eye ! I see two brown laughing counte nances, surrounded by long, coal-black hair, beaming, even amid the ice, with bright contentment both with themselves and the world, and full of the friendhest good-humour, mingled with unaffected astonishment at the appearance of the marvellous strangers. The pure-bred Eskimo would at first glance seem to most of us Europeans anything but beautiful. He has a round, broad face, with large, coarse features ; small, dark, sometimes rather oblique eyes ; a flat nose, narrow between the eyes and broad at the base ; round cheeks, bursting with fat ; a broad mouth ; heavy, broad jaws ; which, together with the round cheeks, give the lower part of the face a great preponderance in the physiognomy. When the mouth is drawn up in an oleaginous smile, two rows of APPEARANCE AND DRESS 19 strong white teeth reveal themselves. One receives the impression, upon the whole, of an admirable chewing apparatus, conveying pleasant suggestions of much and good eating. But, at the same time, one traces in these features, especially in those of the women, a certain touch of ingratiating petted soft ness. ? To our way of thinking, such a face could scarcely be described as beautiful ; but how much prejudice there is in our ideas of beauty ! I soon came to find these brown faces, gleaming with health and fat, really pleasing. They reflected the free life of nature, and suggested to my mind pictures of blue sea, white glaciers, and glittering sunshine. It was, however, chiefly the young that produced this impression ; and they soon grow old. The shrunken, blear-eyed, hairless old women, reminding one of frost-bitten apples, were certainly not beauti ful ; and yet there was a certain style in them, too. Toil had left its traces upon their wrinkled counte nances, but also a life of rude plenty and a habit of good-humoured, hopeless resignation. There was nothing of that vitreous hardness or desiccated dig nity which the school of life so often imprints upon aged countenances in other parts of the world. The half-caste race which has arisen upon the west coast, of mingled European and Eskimo blood, c 2 20 ESKIMO LIFE is apt to be, according to our ideas, handsomer than the pure-bred Eskimos. They have, as a rule, a somewhat southern appearance, with their dark hair, dark eyebrows and eyes, and brown complexion. A remarkably Jewish cast of countenance sometimes appears among them. Types of real beauty are by no means rare — male as well as female. Yet there is apt to be something feeble about these half-breeds. The pure-bred Eskimos undoubtedly seem more genuine and healthy. It is a common error among us in Europe to think of the Eskimos as a diminutive race. Though no doubt smaller than the Scandinavian peoples, they must be reckoned among the middle-sized races, and I even found among those of purest breeding men of nearly six feet in height. Their frame pro duces, on the whole, an impression of strength, espe cially the upper part of the body. The men have broad shoulders, strong, muscular arms, and a good chest ; but, on the other hand, one notices that their thighs are comparatively narrow, and their legs not particularly strong. When they get up in years, therefore, they are apt to have an uncertain gait, with knees slightly bent. This defective develop ment of the lower extremities must be ascribed, for the most part, to the daily confinement in the cramped kaiak. APPEARANCE AND DRESS 21 A noticeable physical characteristic of the women appeared to me to be their comparatively narrow hips, which we are apt to regard as inconsistent with the type of feminine beauty. They certainly seemed to me considerably narrower than those of European women ; but it is hard to say how much of this effect is to be ascribed to difference of dress. The Eskimo women, however, are remarkable for their very small and well-formed hands and feet. Their physique, as a whole, strikes one as sympa thetic and pleasing. The complexion of the pure-bred Greenlander is of a brownish or greyish yellow, and even among the half-breeds a certain tinge of brownish yellow is unmistakable. This natural darkness of the skin, however, is generally much intensified, especially in the case of men and old women, by a total lack of cleanliness. As an indication of their habits in this particular, it will be suf ficient if I quote the concise description given by our very reverend countryman, Hans Egede, of the method of washing practised by the men in par ticular : ' They scrape the sweat off their faces with a knife.' The skin of new-born children is fair, and that not merely because they have not yet had time to grow dirty. Hans Egede Saabye noted long ago in his 22 ESKIMO LIFE Journal x that children have on the small of their back a bluish-black patch, about the size of a six penny piece, from which the dark colour of the skin seems to spread as they grow older. Holm makes a note to the same effect in his account of the east coast.2 I cannot speak on the subject from personal observation. It is perhaps worth noting that some thing similar is related of Japanese children. Most of my readers have probably formed some idea of the Eskimo costume from pictures (see Frontispiece). They are probably aware that its most noteworthy peculiarity lies in the fact that the women dress almost like the men. Their costume is certainty very much prettier and more sensible than our ugly and awkward female fashions. In South Greenland the men wear upon their body what is called a timiak. It is made of bird-skins, with the feathers/or down turned inwards, is shaped very much like our woollen jerseys, and, like them, is drawn over the head. The timiak is provided with a hood, used as^a head-covering in the open air ; at other times it is thrown back, and forms, with its upstanding selvage of black dog-skin, a sort of ''collar round the neck. At the wrists, too, the 1 Saabye : Greenland ; being extracts from a Journal Tcept in that country in the years 1770 to 1778. London : 1818. 2 Meddelelser om Gronland. Pt. 10, p. 58. Copenhagen : 1889. APPEARANCE AND DRESS 23 timiak is edged with black dog-skin, like a showy fur overcoat among us. Above the timiak, an outer vest (anorak) is worn, now for the most part made of cotton. Trousers of sealskin, or of European cloth, are worn upon the legs ; on the feet a peculiar sort of shoes, kamiks, made of sealskin. These consist of two layers, an interior sock of skin with the fur turned inwards, and an exterior shoe of hairless, water-tight hide. In the sole, between the sock and the outer shoe, is placed a layer of straw or of bladder-sedge.1 Into these kamiks the naked foot is thrust. The costume of the women closely resembles that of the men. In South Greenland a bird-skin jacket is worn upon the body, which has, however, no hood to cover the head, but instead of it a high upstand ing collar edged with black dog-skin, which is made to glisten as much as possible ; and outside this collar a broad necklace of glass beads is often worn, radiant with all the colours of the rainbow. The wrists, too, are edged with black dog-skin. The cotton vest above this garment is of course as brightly coloured as possible, red, blue, green,- yellow, and round its lower edge there generally runs a broad variegated band of cotton, or, if pos sible, of silk. Trousers are worn on the legs, ? Norwegian, sennegrces. Trans. 24 ESKIMO LIFE generally of mottled sealskin, but sometimes of reindeer-skin. They are considerably shorter than the men's trousers, coming only to a little way above the knee, but are richly decorated in front with bright-coloured embroideries in leather, and white stripes of reindeer-skin or dog-skin. The kamiks are longer than those of the men, and come up to above the knees; they are generally painted red, but sometimes blue, violet, or white. Down the front of them is sewn a band of many-coloured embroidery. Besides the garments above mentioned, there is another, used by women who are nursing children. It is called an amaut, and resembles an ordinary anorak, except that at the back there is a great en largement or pouch, in which they carry the child all day long, whatever work they may be about. As the amaut is lined both inside and out with reindeer- or seal-skin, this pouch makes a nice warm nest for the child. As no fashion-paper is published in Greenland, fashions are not so variable among the Eskimos as they are with us. Even in this respect, however, they are no mere barbarians, as the following example will show : In former times, the women's anoraks and jackets were as long as the men's ; but after the Europeans APPEARANCE AND DRESS 25 had imported the extravagant luxury of wearing white linen, they felt that such a wonderful tissue was far too beautiful and effective to be concealed. Instead, however, of cutting away their bodices from above, like our beauties at home, they began below, and made their anoraks so short that between them and the trouser-band, which was allowed to slip right down on the hips, there appeared a gap of a hand's breadth or more, in which the fabric in question became visible. A somewhat original style of ' low dress,' this. The Eskimos of the east coast wear costumes practically similar to those here described, only that they almost always use seal-skins instead of bird- skins for their jackets. In North Greenland, too, seal-skin and reindeer-skin are greatly used for these garments, and the same was the case in earlier times all along the west coast. On the east coast, a surprising habit prevails ; to wit, that in their houses and tents, men, women, and children go about entirely naked — or so, at least, it seemed to me. Balto, however, no doubt after closer examination, assured me that the grown men and women had all a narrow band around their loins, a detail which my bashfulness had prevented me from discovering. This remarkable observation of our friend Balto is corroborated by the majority of 26 ESKIMO LIFE travellers who have undertaken researches on the subject, so I am bound to believe them. This band, which the travellers are pleased to designate under- drawers— how far it deserves such a name I will leave to the reader to judge from the accompanying illustration— is, I am told, called ndtit by the Green- landers. In former days this simple indoor garb was worn all over Greenland, right up to the northernmost (2) GREENLAND INDOOR DRESS (EAST COASt). (1) Male costume. (2) Female costume. settlements on Smith's Sound, where, indeed, it is still in use. This light raiment is, of course, very wholesome ; for the many layers of skins in the outdoor dress greatly impede transpiration, and it is therefore a natural impulse which leads the Eskimo to throw them off in the warm rooms, where they would be particularly insanitary. When the Europeans came lo the country, however, this free-and-easy custom offended their sense of propriety, and the missionaries preached against it. Thus it happens that the APPEARANCE AND DRESS 27 national indoor dress has been abolished on the west coast. Whether this has led to an improve ment in moraUty, I cannot say — I have my doubts. That it has not been conducive to sanitation, I can unhesitatingly declare. The Eskimos, however, are still very unsophisti cated with respect to the exposure of their person. Many women, it is true, make some attempt to con ceal their nudities when a European enters their houses ; but I greatly fear that this is rather an affectation which they think will please us, than a result of real modesty ; and when they discover that we are not greatly impressed by their attempts, they very soon give them up. In regard to their own countrymen they show very little sense of modesty. The hair of the Eskimos is coal-black, coarse and straight, like horsehair, and is allowed by the men to grow wild. On the east coast they usually do not cut it at all, even regarding it as dangerous to lose any of it ; they keep it back from the face by means of a band or thong. Sometimes they take it into their heads to cut the hair of children, and the children so treated must continue all through their lives to cut their hair, and must also observe certain fixed formalities in the matter ; for instance, they must cut the ears and tails of their dogs while they are puppies. Iron must on no account come in contact 28 ESKIMO LIFE with the hair, which is, therefore, sawn off with the jawbone of a Greenland shark. The women knot their hair in a tuft upon the crown of the head. This they do by gathering it tightly together from all sides and tying it up, on the east coast with a thong, on the west coast with ribbons of various colours. Unmarried women wear a red ribbon, which they exchange for green if they have had a child. Married women wear a blue, and widows a black ribbon. If a widow wants to marry again she will probably mingle a little red with the black ; elderly widows, who have given up all thought of marriage, often wear a white ribbon. If a widow gives birth to a child, she too must assume the green ribbon. Her top-knot is the pride of the Greenland woman, and it must stand as stiff and straight up in the air as possible. This is, of course, held especially important by the young marriageable women, and as they are scarcely less vain than their European sisters, they draw the hair so tightly together that it is gradually torn away from the forehead, the temples and the neck, whence they often become more or less bald while still comparatively young. This does not add greatly to their attractiveness, but is, never theless, a speaking proof of the vanity of human nature. APPEARANCE AND DRESS 29 In order to get the hair thoroughly well knotted together, and at the same time to give it the glisten ing appearance which is prized as a beauty, they have furthermore the habit of steeping it in urine before doing it up, thus making it moist and easier to tighten. Mothers lick their children instead of washing them, or at least did so in former days ; and as to the insects they come across in the process, their principle is, ' They bite, therefore they must be bitten.' If any should be offended by these peculiarities in the manners and customs of the Greenlanders, they ought to reflect that their own forefathers, not so many generations ago, conducted themselves not so very differently. Let them read the accounts of the domestic life of the Teutonic peoples some cen turies ago, and they will learn many things that will surprise them. 30 ESKIMO LIFE CHAPTEE HI THE ' KAIAK ' AND ITS APPURTENANCES A superficial examination of certain details in the outward life of the Eskimo might easily lead to the erroneous conclusion that he stands at a low grade of civilisation. When we take the trouble to look a little more closely at him, we soon see him in another light. Many people nowadays are vastly impressed with the greatness of. our age, with all the inventions and the progress of which we daily hear, and which appear indisputably to exalt the highly-gifted white race far over all others. These people would learn much by paying close attention to the development of the Eskimos, and to the tools and inventions by aid of which they obtain the necessaries of life among natural surroundings which place such piti fully small means at their disposal. Picture a people placed upon a coast so desert and inhospitable as that of Greenland, cut off from the outer world, without iron, without firearms, with out any resources except those provided by Nature THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 31 upon the spot. These consist solely of stone, a little drift-wood, skins, and bone ; but in order to obtain the latter they must first kill the animals from which to take them. We, in their place, would inevitably go to the wall, if we did not get help from home ; but the Eskimo not only manages to live, but lives in con tentment and happiness, while intercourse with the rest of the world has, to him, meant nothing but ruin. In order that the reader may realise more vividly upon what an accumulation of experiences the civili sation of this people rests, I shall try to give a sketch of the way in which we must conceive it to have arisen. Let us, then, assume that the ancestors of the Eskimos, according- to Dr. Eink's opinion, lived in long bygone ages somewhere in the interior of Alaska. They must at all events have been in landers somewhere and at some time, either in America or in Asia. Besides being hunters upon land, these Eskimos must also have gone a-fishing upon the lakes and rivers in birch-bark canoes, as the inland Eskimos of Alaska and the Indians of the North- West do to this day. In course of time, how ever, some of these inland Eskimos must either have been allured by the riches of the sea or must have been pressed upon by hostile and more warlike Indian 32 ESKIMO LIFE tribes, so that they must have migrated in their canoes down the river-courses toward the western and northern coasts. The nearer they drew to the sea, the more scanty became the supply of wood, and they had to hit upon some other material than birch-bark with which to cover their canoes. It is not at all improbable that before leaving the rivers they had made experiments with the skins of aquatic animals ; for we still see examples of this among several Indian tribes. It was not, however, until the Eskimo encoun tered the rough sea at the mouths of the rivers that he thought of giving his boat a deck, and at last of closing it in entirely and joining his own skin-jacket to it so that the whole became watertight. The kaiak was now complete. But even these inventions, which seem so simple and straightforward now that we see them perfected — what huge strides of pro gress must they not have meant in their day, and how much labour and how many failures must they not have cost ! Arrived at the sea-coast, these Eskimos of the past soon discovered that their existence depended almost entirely upon the capture of seals. To this, then, they directed all their cunning, and the kaiak guided them to the discovery of the many remark able and admirable seal-hunting instruments, which COVEHING A KAIAK THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 33 they brought to higher and ever-higher perfection, and which prove, indeed, in the most striking fashion, what ingenious animals many of us human beino-s really are. The bow and arrow, which they used on land, they could not handle in their constrained position in the kaiak ; therefore, they had to fall back upon throwing- weapons . The idea of these, too, they borrowed from America, making use in the first instance of the Indian darts with steering-feathers, which they had themselves used in hunting upon land. Small har poons or javelins of this sort are still in use among Eskimos of the southern part of the west coast of Alaska. As one passes northward along this coast, how ever, the feathers soon disappear, and are replaced by a httle bladder fastened to the shaft of the javelin. This device has been found necessary in order to prevent the harpooned seals from diving and swim ming. Further, it has been found necessary so to arrange the point of the javelin that it cannot be broken by the seal's violent efforts to get rid of it, but detaches itself instead (at c on accompanying engraving) and remains hanging to a line (from c to b) fastened (at &1) to the middle of the javelin shaft, which is thus made to take a transverse posi- 34 ESKIMO LIFE tion, and still further to impede the movements of the seal when it rushes away with it. Such was the origin of the so-called bladder-dart, known to all Eskimo tribes who live by the sea. The bladder is made of a seagull's or cormorant's gullet, inflated and dried. It is fastened to the javelin-shaft by means of a piece of bone with a hole bored through it for the purpose of blowing up the bladder. This hole is closed with a little wooden plug. From this bladder- dart the Eskimo's prin cipal hunting-weapon — the ingenious harpoon with bladder and line — has probably de veloped. In order to cope with the larger marine animals, the size of the bladder was doubtless gradually increased ; but the dis advantage of this — the fact that it offered too much resistance to the air to be thrown far and with force — must soon have been felt. The bladder was then separated from the javelin, and only attached to its point by means of a long and strong line, the harpoon- bladder- line. The harpoon, which was now made larger and heavier than the original javelin, was henceforward thrown by itself, but drawing the line after it. The bladder, fastened to the other end of the line, remained in the kaiak until the THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 35 animal had been pierced, when it was thrown over board. This harpoon, with all its ingenuity of structure, ranks, along with the kaiak, as the highest achieve ment of the Eskimo mind.1 Its shaft is made in Greenland of red drift-wood — a sort of fir from Siberia, drifted by the polar current across the Polar Sea — which is heavier than the white drift-wood used in making smaller and lighter projectiles. The upper end of the shaft is fitted with a thick and strong plate of bone, on the top of which is fixed a long bone foreshaft — com monly made of walrus or narwhal tusk — which is fastened to the shaft by means of a joint of thongs, so that a strong pressure or blow from the side, instead of shattering the foreshaft, causes it to break off at the joint. This foreshaft fits exactly into a hole in the harpoon-head proper, which is made of bone, generally of walrus or narwhal tusk. It is now always provided with a point, or rather a sharp blade, of iron ; in earlier days they used flint or simply bone. The harpoon-head is fastened to the harpoon-line by means of a hole bored through it, 1 The Indians of the North- West and the Tchuktchi— and even, if I am not mistaken, the Koriaks and the Kamtchatkans — use the same harpoon, with a line and large bladder, in hunting sea animals, throwing, the harpoon from the bow of their large open canoes or skin- boats. It seems probable, however, that they have learned the use of these instruments from the' Eskimos. d 2 36 ESKIMO LIFE and N> is provided with barbs or hooks so that it sticks fast wherever it penetrates. It is, moreover, so adjusted that it works itself transversely into the flesh as the wounded seal tugs at the line. It is attached to the harpoon shaft by being fitted to the before- mentioned foreshaft, whereupon the line is hooked on to a peg, placed some distance up the harpoon-shaft (at a), by means of a per forated piece of bone fixed at the proper distance. Thus the head and the shaft are held firmly together. When the harpoon strikes and the seal begins to plunge, the bone foreshaft instantly breaks off at the joint (see illustration), and the harpoon-head, with the line attached to it, is thus loosened from the shaft, which floats up to the surface and is picked up by its owner, while the seal dashes away, drag ging the line and bladder Rafter it. It must be ad mitted, I think, that it is difficult to conceive a HARPOON. THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 37 J more ingenious apphance, composed of such materials as bone, sealskin, and drift wood ; and we may be sure that it has cost the labour of many generations. Two forms of this harpoon are in use in Greenland. The one is called undk ; its butt-end is finished off with nothing more than a bone knob, and it is longer and slighter than the other. This is called ernang- nak, and has at its butt-end two flanges or wings of bone, now commonly made of whale- rib, designed to increase the weight of the harpoon and to guide it through the air. It is one of these which is repre sented on p. 36. x At Godthaab the ernangnak was most in use ; but I heard old hunters complaining that, 1 In North Greenland there is yet a third and larger form of the harpoon, which is used in walrus hunting, and is hurled without a throwing-stick ; it has instead two bone knobs, one for the thumb and one for the forefinger. ™B HEAD 0F THB HARP00N- f il n 38 ESKIMO LIFE in a wind, it was more difficult to throw than the unak, since a side gust was apt to take too strong hold of the bone flanges and to make the harpoon twist. The harpoon line is made of the hide either of the bearded seal (Phoca barbata) or of the young walrus. It is generally from 15 to 18 yards long, and a good quarter of an inch (about 7 millimetres) thick. For the bladder they use the hide of a young ringed seal (Phoca foetida). The skin is slipped off, as nearly as possible whole, the hair is removed, the apertures at the head, the fore limbs, and the hind limbs are tied up so as to be air-tight, and the whole is dried. The line is coiled upon the kaiak-stand, which is fixed in front of the man. It serves to keep the coil well above the sea, which is always washing over the deck ; and thus the line is always ready to run out without fouling when the harpoon is thrown. The harpooned seal is killed by means of a lance (anguvigak). This consists of a wooden shaft (com monly made of the light white drift-wood, in order that it may carry well), a long bone foreshaft, and an iron-bladed tip. In former days flint was used in stead of iron. The foreshaft is generally made of reindeer horn or else of narwhal tusk. In order that THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 39 the seal may not break it off, it is fastened to the shaft by a joint similar to that which fastens * the foreshaft to the harpoon. The Eskimos have also the so called bird- dart (nufit). Its shaft is likewise of white drift-wood. Its point consists of a long nar row spike, now made of iron, but in earlier times of bone ; and besides this there are fastened to the middle of the shaft three forward-slanting spikes, made of reindeer- horn and provided with large barbs. The idea is that if the end of the dart does not pierce the bird, the shaft shall glide along it, and one of these outstanding spikes must strike and penetrate it ; and it is thus, in fact, that the bird is generaUy brought down. Another invention, this, which no one need blush to own. All these projectiles can, as I have shown above, be traced back to the Indian feather- dart. But in order to throw their weapons fur ther and with greater force, the Eskimos have invented an appliance which distinguishes them from all surrounding races, whether American or Asiatic. This invention is the throwing-stick. Oddly enough, this admirable lance 40 ESKIMO LIFE device, which by its sling-like action greatly aug ments the length and strength of the arm, is known in very few parts of the world — probably only in three. It is found in Australia in a very primitive form, among the Conibos and Purus on the Upper Amazon, where it is scarcely more developed than in Australia, and finally among the Eskimos, where it has reached its highest perfection.1 We can scarcely THROWING-STICK WITH BIRD-DART. conjecture that the throwing-stick, appearing in places so remote from each other, springs from any common origin, and we must thus accept the Eskimo form of it as an original invention of that particular race. It is generally made in Greenland of red drift wood, and is about half a yard long (fourteen sticks in my possession range from 42 to 52 centimetres in length). At its lower and broader end it is about 3 inches (7 or 8 centimetres) in width, and is flat, 1 As to the different forms of the throwing-stick among the Eskimos, see Mason's paper upon them in the Annual Report, &c. of the Smith sonian Institution for 1884, Part II. p. 279. THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 41 with a thickness of rather more than half an inch (about l-i- centimetre). The sides, at the lower and broader end, have indentations in them for convenience in grasping — on one side for the thumb, on the other for the fore-finger ; while on the upper flat side there runs a long groove along the whole length of the stick, to receive the dart or harpoon.1 The throwing-stick is found in two forms. The one is most used for the bladder-dart and the bird-dart ; it has at the upper narrow end a knob which fits into an indentation in a plate of bone fixed to the butt end of the dart. (Compare illustrations on pp. 40 and 42). The other form is used for harpoons and lances ; it has a hole in the upper narrow end, into which fits a back ward-slanting spur in the side of the harpoon or lance- shaft, and it has besides another hole further down and near the grip, into which fits another slanting spur. (Compare illustration, p. 43). Throwing- sticks of this sort are used in the North, for example in Sukkertoppen, for the bird-dart as well. A third form of the throwing-stick is used in the most southern part of Greenland and on the east coast for the ernangnak or flange harpoon. This form has in its upper narrow end a small knob, as in '- 1 In some places— for example, in the most southern part of Green land and on the East Coast— there is only a hoUow for the thumb, while the other side is smooth or edged with a piece of bone in which are notches to prevent the hand from slipping. 42 ESKIMO LIFE the bird-dart throwing-stick, and this knob fits into an indentation in the butt end of the harpoon between the bone flanges ; in the lower end of the shaft, on the other hand, near the grip, there are one or even two holes into which fit bone knobs in the side of the harpoon shaft, as above described. When the harpoon or the dart is to be hurled, THE BIRD-DART THROWN. the throwing-stick, of whatever form it may be, is seized by the grip 'and held backward, together with the weapon, in a horizontal position. (See illustration, page 40) ; being then jerked forward with force, its lower end comes away from the dart or harpoon, while, with the upper end, still fitted to its knob or peg (see illustrations on this and the next page), the thrower hurls the weapon away to a con siderable distance and with great accuracy. This is an extremely simple and effective invention. THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 43 Besides the weapons above mentioned, the Eskimo has behind him in his kaiak, when he goes out hunt ing, a knife with a handle about 4 feet long (1-20 metre) and a pointed blade measuring some 8 inches (20 centimetres). This is used for giving the seal or other game its finishing stroke. He has, moreover, a smaller knife lying before him in the kaiak ; it is used, amongst other things, for piercing holes in the THEOWIXG-STICK WITH HARPOON. seal through which to pass the bone knobs of the towing-line, wherewith the seal is made fast to the kaiak and towed to land. To» this end, too, he always carries with him one or more towing-bladders, which he inflates and. fastens to the seal in order to keep it afloat. These bladders are made of the pouch of small whales (e.g. the grampus). To complete this description, I should also men tion the bone-knife which forms part of the kaiak- man's outfit, especiaUy in winter, and which is prin cipally used for scraping the ice off the kaiak. 44 ESKIMO LIFE 1 VMS KAIAK, SEEN FROM ABOVE. From the accompanying draw ing, the reader wiU be able to form an idea of how all these weapons are fitted to the kaiak when it is in full hunting trim: a is the kaiak-opening ; b, the harpoon-bladder ; c, the kaiak- stand with coiled harpoon-line (e) ; d, the harpoon hanging in its place ; /, the lance ; g, the kaiak- knife ; h, the bladder-dart ; i, the bird-dart ; k, its throwing-stick. But the most important thing of all yet remains, and that is a description of the kaiak itself. It has an internal framework of wood. This, of which the reader can, I hope, form some conception from the accompany ing drawing, was formerly always made of drift-wood, usuaUy of the white wood, which is lightest. For the ribs, osiers were some times used, from willow bushes which are found growing far up the fiords. In later days they have got into the habit of buying KAIAK - FRAME. THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 45 European boards of spruce or Scotch fir in the west coast colonies, although drift-wood is still considered preferable, especially on account of its lightness. This framework is covered externally with skins, as a rule with the skin of the saddleback seal (Phoca groenlandica), or of the bladder-nose or hood seal (Cystophora cristata). The latter is not so durable or so water-tight as the former ; but the skin of a young bladder-nose, in which the pores are not yet very large, is considered good enough. Those who can afford it use the skin of the bearded seal (Phoca barbata), which is reckoned the best and strongest ; but, as it is also used for harpoon lines, it is, as a rule, only on the south and east coast that it is found in such quantities that it can be commonly used for covering the kaiak. The skin of the great ringed seal (Phoca foetida) is also used, but not so frequently. The preparation of the kaiak-skins wiU be de scribed subsequently, in Chapter VIII. They are generaUy fitted at once to the kaiak in a raw state ; but if they have been already dried they must be carefully softened for several days before they can be used. The point is to get them as moist and pliant as possible, so that they can be thoroughly weU stretched, and remain as tense as a drum-head when they dry. The preparation of the skins, and the sewing and stretching them on the kaiak, belongs 46 ESKIMO LIFE to the women's department ; it is not very easy work, and woe to them if the skin sits badly or is too slack ! They feel it a great disgrace. All, or at any rate a great many, of the women of the village are generally present when a kaiak is being covered ; it is a great entertainment to them, especially as, in reward for their assistance, they are often treated to coffee by the owner of the kaiak. The cost of the entertainment ranges, according to his wealth, from threepence or fourpence up to a shiUing or more. In the middle of the kaiak's deck there is a hole just large enough to enable a man to get his legs through it and to sit down ; his thighs almost en tirely fill the aperture. Thus it takes a good deal of practice before one can slip into or out of the kaiak with any sort of ease. The hole is surrounded by the kaiak-ring, which consists of a hoop of wood. It stands a little more than an inch (3 or 3^ centi metres) above the kaiak's deck, and the waterproof jacket, as we shall presently see, is drawn over it. At the spot where the rower sits, pieces of old kaiak- skin are laid in the bottom over the ribs, with a piece of bearskin or other fur to make the seat softer. As a rule, each hunter makes his kaiak for him self, and it is fitted to the man's size just like a garment. A kaiak for a Greenlander of average size THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 47 measures, in the neighbourhood of Godthaab, about 6 yards (51 metres) in length. The greatest breadth of deck, in front of the kaiak-ring, is about 18 inches (45 centimetres), or a little more ; but the boat narrows con siderably towards the bottom. The breadth, of course, varies according to the width of the man's thighs, and is generally no greater than just to allow him to slip in. I should note, however, that the kaiaks in Godthaab fiords — as, for example, at Sardlok and Karhok — were longer and narrower than the kaiaks on the sea-coast, for example at Kangek, obviously for the reason that on the open coast they are ex posed to heavier seas, and must therefore be stiffer and easier to handle. The shorter and broader kaiaks are better sea-boats, and ship less water. The depth of the kaiak from deck to bottom is generaUy from 5 to 6-J inches (12 to 15 centimetres), but in front of the kaiak-ring it is an inch or two more, in order to give room for the thighs, and to enable the rower section op THE KAIAK. to get more easUy into his place. The (Thedotteaiinere- presents tlie skin.) bottom of the kaiak is pretty flat, sloping to a very obtuse angle (probably about 140°) in the middle. The kaiak narrows evenly in, both fore and aft, and comes to a point at both ends. It has no keel, but its underpart at both ends is generally provided with bone flanges, for the most part of 48 ESKIMO LIFE whale-rib, designed to save the skin from being ripped up by drift-ice, or by stones when the kaiak is beached. Both points are commonly provided with knobs of bone, partly for ornament, partly for protection as well. Across the deck, in front of the kaiak-ring, six thongs are usually fastened, and from three to five behind the rower. Under these thongs weapons and implements are inserted, so that they lie safe and handy for use. Pieces of bone are let into the thongs, partly to hold them together, partly to keep them a little bit up from the deck, so that weapons can the more easily and quickly be pushed under them, and partly also for the sake of ornament. To some of these thongs the booty is fastened. The heads of birds are stuck in under them ; seals, whales, or halibut are attached by towing-lines to the thongs at the side of the kaiak ; and smaUer 'fish are not fastened at all, but either simply laid on the back part of the deck or pushed in under it. A kaiak is so light that it can without difficulty be carried on the head, with all its appurtenances, over several miles of land. It is propelled by a two-bladed paddle, which is held in the middle and dipped in the water'on each side in turn, like the paddles we use in canoes. It has probably been developed from the Indians' one- THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 49 bladed paddles. Among the Eskimos on the south west coast of Alaska the one-bladed paddle is universal ; not until we come north of the Yukon Eiver do we find two-bladed paddles, and even there the single blade is still the more common. Further north and eastward along the American coast both forms are found, until the two blades at last come into exclusive use eastward of the Mackenzie Eiver. The Aleutians seem, strangely enough, to be acquainted with only the two-bladed paddle,1 and this is also the case, so far as I can gather, with the Asiatic Eskimos.2 In fair weather the kaiak-man uses the so-caUed half-jacket (akuilisak). This, is made of water-tight skin with the hair removed, and is sewn with sinews. Eound its lower margin runs a draw-string, or rather a draw- thong, by means of which the edge of the jacket can be made to fit so closely to the 1 On this point, see even such early authors as Cook and King, A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, Sc, 3rd ed., ii. p. 513, London, 1785. 2 It is.. remarkable that the inhabitants of St. Lawrence Island do not seem to use the kaiak at all. They have large open skin-boats (baidars) of the same build as those of the Tchucktchi. (Compare Nordenskiold, The Voyage of the Vega, ii. p. 254, London, 1881.) 50 ESKIMO LIFE kaiak-ring that it can only be pressed and drawn down over it with some little trouble. This done, the half-jacket forms, as it were, a water-tight extension of the kaiak. The upper margin of the jacket comes close up to the armpits of the kaiak-man, and is supported by braces or straps, which pass over the shoulders and can be length- HALF-JACKET. WHOLE-JACKET. ened or shortened by means of handy runners or buckles of bone, so simple and yet so ingenious that we, with all our metal buckles and so forth, cannot equal them. Loose sleeves of skin are drawn over the arms, and are lashed to the over-arm and to the wrist, thus preventing the arm from becoming wet. Watertight mittens of skin are drawn over the hands. THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 51 This half-jacket is enough to keep out the smaller waves which wash over the kaiak. In a heavier sea, on the other hand, the whole-jacket (tuilik) is used. This is made in the same way as the half-jacket, and, like it, fits close to the kaiak-ring, but is longer above, has sleeves attached to it, and a hood which comes right over the head. It is laced tight round the face and wrists, so that with it on the kaiak-man can go right through the breakers and can capsize and right himself again, without getting wet and without letting a drop of water into the kaiak. It wiU readily be understood that it is not easy to sit in a vessel like the kaiak without capsizing, and that it needs a good deal of practice to master its peculiarities. I have seen a friend of mine in Nor way, on making his first experiment in my kaiak, capsize four times in the space of two minutes ; no sooner had we got him up on even keel and let him go, than he again stood on his head with the bottom of the kaiak in the air. But when one has acquired by practice a mastery of the kaiak and of the two-bladed paddle, one can get through the water in all sorts of weather at an astonishing speed. The kaiak is beyond comparison the best boat for a single oarsman ever invented. In order to become an accomplished kaiak-man, one ought to begin early. The Greenland boys often E 2 52 ESKIMO LIFE begin to practise in their father's kaiak at from six to eight years old, and when they are ten or twelve the provident Greenlander gives his sons kaiaks of their own. This was the rule, at any rate, in former times. Lars Dalager even says : ' When they are from eight to ten years old they take seriously to work in little kaiaks.' From this age onwards, the young Greenlander remains a toiler of the sea. At first he generaUy confines himself to fishing, but before long he ex tends his operations to the more difficult seal- hunting. You cannot rank as an expert kaiak-man until you have mastered the art of righting yourself after capsizing. To do this, you seize one end of the paddle in your hand, and with the other hand grasp the shaft as near the middle as possible; then you place it along the side of the kaiak with its free end pointing forward towards the bow; and thereupon, pushing the end of the paddle sharply out to the side,1 and bending your body well forward towards the deck, you raise yourself by a strong cir cular sweep of the paddle. If you do not come right up, a second stroke may be necessary. 1 While the paddle is being pushed out sideways, until it comes at right angles to the kaiak, it is held slightly aslant, so that the blade, in moving, forces the water under it, and acquires an upward leverage. THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 53 A thorough kaiak-man can also right himself without an oar by help of his throwing-stick, or even without it, by means of one arm. The height of accomplishment is reached when he does not even need to use the flat of his hand, but can clench it ; and to show that he really does so, I have seen a man take a stone in his clenched hand before cap sizing, and come up with it stiU in his grasp. An Eskimo told me of another who was so extra- ordinarUy skilful at righting himself that he could do it in every possible way : with or without an oar, with or without a throwing-stick, or with his clenched hand. The only thing he could not right himself with was — his tongue ; and my informant protruded that member and made some horrible grimaces with it to illustrate what exertions it would cost to recover yourself with so inconvenient an: implement. In earher times, on the west coast of Greenland, every at aU capable kaiak-man was able to right himself; but in these later days, since the intro duction of European civiUsation, and the consequent degeneracy of the race, this art has declined, along with everything else. It is still quite common, how ever, in many places. For instance, I can assert of my own knowledge that at Kangek, near Godthaab, almost aU the hunters possessed it. On the east coast, according to Captain Holm, it seems to be usual, yet 54 ESKIMO LIFE not so much so as it was in former times upon the west coast. Nor is this to be wondered at, as it is far more necessary on the west coast, where there is little drift ice and heavy seas are common. A kaiak-man who has entirely mastered the art of righting himself can defy almost any weather. If he is capsized, he is on even keel again in a moment, and can play like a sea-bird with the waves, and cut right through them. If the sea is very heavy, he lays the broadside of his kaiak to it, holds the paddle flat out on the windward side, pressing it against the deck, bends forward, and lets the wave roll over him ; or else he throws himself on his side towards it, resting on his flat paddle, and rights him self again when it has passed. The prettiest feat of seamanship I have ever heard of is that to which some fishers, I am told, have recourse among over whelming rollers. As the sea curls down over them they voluntarily capsize, receive it on the bottom of the kaiak, and when it has passed right themselves again. I think it would be difficult to name a more intrepid method of dealing with a heavy sea. If you cannot right yourself, and if there is no help at hand, you are lost beyond all hope as soon as you capsize. This may happen easily enough — a wave can do it, or even the fouling of the harpoon- line when a seal is struck. Just as often, too; it THE 'KAIAK' AND ITS APPURTENANCES 55 happens through an unguarded movement in calm weather, or at moments when there seems to be no danger. Many Eskimos find their death every year in this manner. For example, I may state that in Danish South Greenland in 1888, out of 162 deaths (of which 90 were of males), 24, or about 15 per cent, (that is to say, more than a fourth part of the male mortality), were caused by drowning in kaiaks. In 1889, in South Greenland, out of 272 deaths (of which 152 were of males), 24, or about 9 per cent., were due to the same cause. This in a popu lation of 5,614, of which 2,591 were males. 56 ESKIMO LIFE CHAPTEE IV THE ESKIMO AT SEA One often hears the Eskimo accused of cowardice. This is no doubt mainly due to the fact that his accusers have seen him only on land, or in fine weather at sea ; and then he is 'too good-natured and easy-going to show any courage. It may be, too, they have not taken the trouble to place themselves in sympathy with his view of life ; or else they may have called upon him to do things which he neither understood nor cared about. If by courage we understand the tigerish ferocity which fights to the last drop of blood, even against superior force — that courage which, as Spencer says, is undoubtedly most common among the lowest races of men, and is especially characteristic of many species of animals— it must be admitted that of this the Eskimos do not possess any great share. They are too peaceable and good-natured, for example, to strike back when attacked ; and therefore Europeans, ever since the time of Egede and the first mission aries, have been able to strike them with impunity THE ESKIMO AT SEA 57 and to call them cowardly. But this sort of courage is held in no great respect by the natives in Green land, and I am afraid that they do not look up to us any the more because we exhibit a superabundance of it. They have from all time respected the beauti ful Christian doctrine that if a man smite you on the right cheek, you should turn to him the left also. But to conclude from this that the Eskimo is a coward would be unjust. To estimate the worth of a human being, you must see him at his work. Follow the Eskimo to sea, observe him there — where his vocation lies — and you wiU soon behold him in another light ; for, if we understand by courage that faculty which, in mo ments of danger, lays its plans with calmness and executes them with ready presence of mind, or which faces inevitable danger, and even certain death, with immovable self-possession, then we shall find in Greenland men of such courage as we but rarely find elsewhere. Kaiak-hunting has many dangers. ¦ Though his father may have perished at sea, and very likely his brother and his friend as well, the Eskimo nevertheless goes quietly about his daily work, in storm no less than in calm. If the weather is -too terrible, he may be chary of putting to sea; experience has taught him that in such weather 58 ESKIMO LIFE many perish ; but when once he is out he goes ahead as though it were all the most indifferent thing in the world. It is a gallant business, this kaiak-hunting ; it is like a sportive dance with the sea and with death. There is no finer sight possible than to see the kaiak- man breasting the heavy rollers that seem utterly to engulf him. Or when, overtaken by a storm at sea, the kaiaks run for the shore, they come like black storm-birds rushing before the wind and the waves, which, like rolling mountains, sweep on in their wake. The paddles whirl through air and water, the body is bent a little forwards, the head often turned half backwards to watch the seas ; all is life and spirit — while the sea around reeks like a seething cauldron. And then it may happen that when the game is at its wildest a seal pops its head up before them. Quicker than thought the harpoon is seized and rushes through the foam with deadly aim ; the seal dashes away with the bladder behind it, but is presently caught and killed, and then towed onwards. Everything is done with the same masterly skill and with the same quiet demeanour. The Eskimo never dreams that he is performing feats of heroism. Here he is great — and we? Ah, in these sur roundings we are apt to seem very small. Let us follow the Eskimo on a day's hunting. ' THE HEAD TUENED HALF BACKWARDS TO WATCH THE SEAS ' THE ESKIMO AT SEA 59 Several hours before dawn he stands upon the outlook-rock over the village, and scans the sea to as certain whether the weather is going to be favourable. Having assured himself on this point, he comes slowly down to his house and gets out his kaiak-jacket. His breakfast in the good old days consisted of a drink of water ; now that European effeminacy has reached him too, it is generaUy one or two cups of strong coffee. He eats nothing in the morning ; he declares that it makes him uneasy in the kaiak, and that he has more endurance without it. Nor does he take any food with him — only a quid of tobacco. When the kaiak is carried down to the beach and the hunting-weapons are ranged in their places, he shps into the kaiak-hole, makes fast his jacket over the ring, and puts out to sea. From other houses in the viUage his neighbours are also putting forth at the same time. It is the bladder-nose that they are after to-day, and the hunting-ground is on some banks nine miles out to the open sea. It is calm, the smooth sea heaves in a long swell towards the rocky islets that fringe the shore, a light haze stiU lies over the sounds between them, and the sea-birds floating on the surface seem double their natural size. The kaiaks cut their way forwards, side by side, making only a silent ripple ; the paddles swing in an even rhythm, while the men keep up an 60 ESKIMO LIFE unbroken stream of conversation, and now and then burst out into merry laughter. Bird-darts are thrown in sport, now by one, now by another, in order to keep eye and hand in practice. Presently an auk comes within range of one of them ; the dart speeds through the air, and the bird, transfixed, attempts, with much flapping of wings, to dive, but is held up next moment upon the point of the dart. The point is pulled out, the hunter seizes the bird's beak be tween his teeth, and with a strong twitch breaks its neck, then fastens it to the back part of the kaiak. They soon leave the sounds and islets behind them and put straight out to the open sea. After some hours' paddling, they have at last reached the hunting-ground. Great seal-heads are seen peering over the water in many directions, and the hunters scatter in search of their prey. Boas, one of the best hunters of the village, has seen a large he-seal far off, and has paddled towards it ; but it has dived, and he lies and waits for its re appearance. There ! a little way before him its round black head pops up. He bends well forward, while with noiseless and wary strokes he urges the kaiak toward the seal, which lies peaceful and undis turbed, stretching its neck and rocking up and down upon the swell. But suddenly it is on the alert; it has caught a glimpse of the flashing paddle-blade, and now %*¦ - . - ;. — AA5 SEAWAED IN SEAECH Of SEALS THE ESKIMO AT SEA 61 looks straight at him with its great round eyes. He instantly stops paddling and sits motionless, while the way on the kaiak carries it noiselessly forward. The seal discovers nothing new to be alarmed at, and resumes its former quietude. It throws its head backwards, holds its snout straight up in the air, and bathes in the morning sun which gleams upon its black, wet skin. In the meantime the kaiak is rapidly nearing ; every time the seal looks in that direction, Boas sits stiU and moves no muscle ; but as soon as it turns its head away again, he shoots forward like a flash of lightning. He is coming within range ; he gets his harpoon clear, sees that the Une is properly coiled upon the stand ; one stroke more and it is time to throw — when the seal quietly disappears under the water. It was not frightened, and wiU consequently come up again at no great distance. He lies stiU and waits. But the minutes drag on ; a seal can remain under water an incredible time, and it seems even longer to one who is waiting for his prey. But the Eskimo is gifted with admirable patience ; he lies absolutely motionless except for his head, with which he keeps watch on every side. At last the seal's head once more appears over the water a little way off and to one side. He cautiously turns the kaiak, unobserved by his prey, and once more he shoots towards it 62 ESKIMO LIFE over the mirror-like sea. But suddenly it catches sight of him again, looks at him sharply for a moment, and dives. He knows its habits, however, and at full speed he dashes towards the spot where it disappeared. Before many moments have passed it pops up its head again to look around. Now he is within range : the harpoon is seized and carried back over his shoulder, then with a strong move ment, as if hurled from a steel spring, it rushes whistling from the throwing-stick, whirling the line behind it. The seal gives a violent plunge, but at the moment it arches its back to dive, the harpoon- sinks into its side, and buries itself up to the shaft. A few convulsive strokes of its tail churn the water into foam, and away it goes, dragging the harpoon- line behind it towards the depths. In the meantime Boas has seized the throwing-stick between his teeth, and, quicker than thought, has thrown the bladder out of the kaiak behind him. It dances away over the surface of the sea, now and then seeming on the point of disappearing, as indeed it finally does. Before long, however, it again comes in sight, and he chases after it as quickly as his paddle can take him, snapping up on the way his harpoon- shaft which has floated to the surface. The lance is laid ready for use. Next moment the seal comes up; infuriated at its inability to escape, it turns SEAL-HUNTING THE ESKIMO AT SEA 63 upon its pursuer, attacks first the bladder, which it tears to pieces, and then goes straight for the kaiak. Again Boas is within range ; the animal arches its back and hurls itself forward with gaping maw, so that the water foams around it. A miss may now cost him his life ; but he calmly raises his lance and sends it speeding with terrible force through the seal's mouth and out at the back of its neck. A shudder runs through it, and its head sinks ; but the next moment it raises itself perpendicularly in the water, the blood pours frothing from its mouth, it gapes wildly and utters a smothered roar, while the hood over its nose is inflated to an astounding size. It shakes its head so that the lance-shaft ' quivers and waves to and fro ; but it does not succeed in breaking it or getting free from it. A moment more and Boas's second lance has pierced through one of its fore-flappers into its lungs ; the seal coUapses, and the fight is over. He paddles up to its side, and as it still moves a little, he gives it a finishing stab with his long-handled knife. Then he sets quietly about pulling out his lances and replacing them in the kaiak, takes out his towing-line and blows up his towing-bladder, which he fastens to the seal, cuts the harpoon-head out and once more makes it fast to the shaft, coils the line on the stand, and takes out a new bladder and places it ¦64 ESKIMO LIFE behind him. Next, the seal's flappers are lashed close to its body, with the thong designed for that purpose, and the animal is attached by means of the towing-line to one side of the kaiak, so that it ¦can easily be towed along, its head being fastened to the foremost pair of thongs on the deck, and its tail to the hindmost. Now Boas is ready to look about him for more game. He is lucky, and has not paddled far before he catches sight of another seal. In an instant he has cast loose the one already killed, which is kept afloat by the towing-bladder, while he again sets off in pursuit, This one, too,^ he kills, after some wary stalking and eager waiting ; he. takes it in tow and returns for his first prey. The two great animals are fastened one on each side of the kaiak. He has now a good cargo, and cannot get very quickly through the water ; but that does not prevent him from increasing his bag. As soon as another seal comes in sight those already secured are cast loose, and when the next one is kiUed it is fastened behind the others. In this way one man will sometimes come towing as many as four seals, or even more at a pinch. Tobias, in the meantime, another of the best hunters of the village, has not been quite so for tunate as Boas. He began by chasing a seal which •dived and did not come up again within sight. Then THE ESKIMO AT SEA 65 he set off after another ; but as he is skimming over the sea towards it the huge head of a hooded seal J suddenly pops up right in front of the kaiak, and is harpooned in an instant. It makes a frightful wal lowing and dives, the harpoon-line whirls out, but suddenly gets fouled under the bird-dart throwing- stick ; the bow of the kaiak is drawn under with an irresistible rush, and before Tobias knows where he is, the water is up to his armpits, and nothing can be seen of him but his head and shoulders and the stern of the kaiak, which sticks right up into the air. It looks as if it were aU over with him ; those who are near him pjaddle with aU their might to his assist ance, but with scant hope of arriving in time to save him. Tobias, however, is a first-rate kaiak-man. In spite of his difficult position, he keeps upon even keel while he is dragged through the water by the seal, which does aU it can to get him entirely under. At last it comes up again, and in a moment he has seized his lance and, with a deadly aim, has pierced it right through the head. A feeble movement, and it is dead. The others come up in time to find Tobias busy making his booty fast and to get their pieces of blubber from it.2 They cannot restrain their admira- 1 Hoettesoel, the full-grown male of the Klapmyts (bladder-nose). It has a hood over its nose, which it can innate enormously. 2 When a seal is killed, each of the kaiak-men in the neighbourhood receives a piece of its blubber, which he generally devours forthwith. F 66 ESKIMO LIFE tion for his coolness and skill, and speak of it long afterwards. Tobias and Boas, however, are the best hunters of the village. It is related of them that, in their younger days, they were such masters of their craft that they even disdained the use of bladders. They made fast the harpoon-line round their own waist or round the kaiak-ring, and when the har pooned seal was not killed at the first stroke, they let it drag themselves and the kaiak after it instead of the bladder. This is looked upon by the Green- landers as the summit of possible achievement, but there are very few who attain such mastery. Hitherto the weather has been fine, the glassy surface of the sea has been heaving softly under the rising sun. But in the course of the last hour or two, black and threatening banks of clouds have begun to draw up over the southern horizon. Just as Tobias has made fast his seal, a distant roar is heard and a sort of steam can be seen rising over the sea to the southward. It is a storm approaching, and the steam is the flying spray which it drives before it. Of all winds, the Greenlanders fear the south wind (nigek) most, for it is always violent and sets up a heavy sea. The thing is now to get under the land as quickly as possible. Those who have no seals in tow have the best of it, yet they try to keep with the others. B I! H aW oacq THE ESKIMO AT SEA 67 One relieves Boas of one of his seals. They have not paddled far before the storm is upon them ; it thrashes the water to foam as it approaches, and the kaiak-men feel it on their backs, like a giant lifting and hurling them forward. The sport has now turned to earnest ; the seas soon tower into moun tains of water and break and welter down upon them. They are making for the land with the wind nearly abeam ; but they are stiU far off, they can see nothing around them for the spray, and almost every wave buries them so that only a few heads, arms, and ends of paddles can be seen above the combs of froth. Here comes a gigantic roUer — they can see it shining black and white in the far distance. It towers aloft so that the sky is almost hidden. In a moment they have stuck their paddles under the thongs on the windward side and bent their bodies forward so that the crest of the wave breaks upon their backs. For a second almost everything has dis appeared ; those who are further a-lee await their turn in anxiety ; then the biUow passes, and once more the kaiaks skim forward as before. But such a sea does not come singly ; the next will be worse. They hold their paddles flat to the deck and projecting to wind ward, bend their bodies forward, and at the moment when the white cataract thunders down upon them E 2 68 ESKIMO LIFE they hurl themselves into its very jaws, thus some what breaking its force. For a moment they have again disappeared — then one kaiak comes up on even keel, and presently another appears bottom upwards. It is Pedersuak (i.e. the big Peter) who has capsized. His comrade speeds to his side, but at the same moment the third wave breaks over them and he must look out for himself. It is too late — the two kaiaks lie heaving bottom upwards. The second manages to right himself, and his first thought is for his comrade, to whose assistance he once more hastens. He runs his kaiak alongside of the other, lays his paddle across both, bends down so that he gets hold under the water of his comrade's arm, and with a jerk drags him up upon his side, so that he too can get hold of the paddle and in an instant raise himself upon even keel. The water-tight jacket has come a little loose from the ring on one side and some water has got in ; not so much, however, but that he can still keep afloat. The others have in the meantime come up ; they get hold of the lost paddle, and all can again push forward. It grows worse and worse for those who have seals in tow; they lag far behind, and the great beasts lie heaving and jarring against the sides of the kaiaks. They think of sacrificing their prey, but one difficult sea passes after another, and they wiU still A KAIAK-MAN RESCUING A COMRADE THE ESKIMO AT SEA 69 try to hang on for a while. The proudest moments in a hunter's life are those in which he comes home towing his prey, and sees his wife's, his daughter's, and his handmaiden's happy faces beaming upon him from the shore. Far out at sea he already sees them in his mind's eye, and rejoices like a child. No wonder that he will not cast loose his prey save at the direst pinch of need. After passing through many ugly rollers, they have at last got under the land. Here they are somewhat protected by a group of islands lying far to the southward. The seas become less violent, and, as they gradually get further in, they push on more quickly for home over the smoother water. In the meantime the women at home have been in the greatest anxiety. When the storm arose they ran up to the outlook-rock or out upon the headlands, and stood there in groups gazing eagerly over the angry sea for their sons, husbands, fathers, and brothers. So they stand watching and shivering, until, with eyes rendered keener by anxiety, they at last discern what seem like black specks approaching from the horizon, and the whole village echoes to one glad shout : ' They are coming ! They are coming ! ' They begin to count how many there are ; two are missing ! No, there is one of them ! No, they are aU there ! They are aU there ! 70 ESKIMO LIFE They soon begin to recognise individuals, partly by their method of paddling, partly by the kaiaks, although as yet they are little more than tiny dots. Suddenly there sounds a wild shout of joy : ' Boase kaligpok ! ' (' Boas is towing ') — him they easily identify by his size. This joyful intelligence passes from house to house, the children rush around and shout it in through the windows, and the groups upon the rocks dance for joy, Then comes a new shout : ' Ama Tobiase kaligpok ! ' (' Tobias too is towing ') ; and this news likewise passes from house to house. Next is heard : ' Ama Simo kaligpok ! ' ' Ama David kaligpok ! ' And now again comes another swarm of women out of the houses and up to the rocks to look out over the sea breaking white against the islets and cliffs, where eleven black dots can now and then be seen far out amid the rolling masses of water, moving slowly nearer. At last the leading kaiaks shoot into the little bight in front of the village. They are those who have no seals. Lightly and with assured aim one after the other dashes up on the flat beach, carried high upon the crest of the waves. The women stand ready to receive them and to draw them further up. Then come those who have seals in tow ; they must proceed somewhat more cautiously. First, they cast loose their prey and see that it comes to the THE ESKIMO AT SEA 71 hands of the women on shore. Then they themselves make for the land. When once they have got out of the kaiak, they, like the first comers, pay no heed to anything but themselves and their weapons, which they carry to their places above high-water mark. They do not even look at their prey as it lies on the shore. From this time forward all work in connec tion with the ' take ' faUs to the share of the women. The men go to their homes, take off their wet clothes and put on their indoor dress, which, as we have seen, was in the heathen times exceedingly airy, but has now become more visible. Then at last comes the first meal of the day ; but it does not begin in earnest till the day's ' take ' is boiled and served up in a huge dish placed in the middle of the floor. Then there disappear incredible quantities of flesh and raw blubber. When hunger is appeased, the women always set themselves to some household work, sewing or the like, whilst the men give themselves up to weU-earned laziness, or attend a little to their weapons, hang up the harpoon-line to dry, and so forth. Then the hunters begin to relate the events of the day, the family listening eagerly, especiaUy the boys. The narrative is sober, with none of that boasting or striving to impress the hearers with an exaggerated idea of the difficulties overcome, in which we 72 ESKIMO LIFE Europeans, under similar circumstances, would often indulge. But at the same time it is lively and picturesque, with a peculiar breadth of colouring. Experiences are described with illustrative gestures, and, as Dalager says : " When they have come so far in the story that the cast has to be depicted, they swing the right arm in the air while the left is held straight out to represent the animal. Then the demonstration goes on as follows : ' When the time came for using the harpoon, I looked to it, I took it, I seized it, I gripped it, I had it fast in my hand, I balanced it ' — and so forth. This alone may go on for several minutes, until at last the hand sinks to represent the throw ; and after that they do not forget to make note of the last twitches given by the seal." At other times the most remarkable events are dismissed in a few words. But as often as an opportunity presents itself, a broad humour enters into the narration, and. is unfailingly rewarded by shrieks of laughter from the eager listeners. No more perfect picture could be imagined of happy family life. So the days pass for the Eskimo. Although there is nothing unusual in experiences such as these, they have for him a distinct attraction. His best thoughts are wedded to the sea, the hard life upon it is for him THE ESKIMO AT SEA 73 the kernel of existence — and when he is forced to remain at home, his heart is heavy. But when he grows old — ah, then the saga is over. There is always a melancholy in old age, and nowhere more than here. These kindly old men have also in their day known strength and youth — times when they were the pillars of their little society. Now they have only the memories of that life left to them, and they must let themselves be fed by others. But when the young people come home from sea with their booty, they, too, hobble down to the beach to receive them ; even if it were but a poor foreigner like me, they were glad to be able to help me ashore with my kaiak. And then when evening comes they set them selves to story-teUing ; adventure follows adventure, the past comes to life again, and the young people are spurred on to action. The hunting is often more dangerous than that described above. It wiU easily be understood that from his constrained position in the kaiak, which does not permit of much turning, the hunter can not throw backwards or to the right. If, then, a wounded seal suddenly attacks him from these quarters, it requires both skill and presence of mind to elude it or to turn so quickly as to aim a fatal throw at it before it has time to do him damage. It is just as bad when he is attacked from below, or 74 ESKIMO LIFE when the animal suddenly shoots up close at his side, for it is lightning-like in its movements and lacks neither courage nor strength. If it once gets up on the kaiak and capsizes it, there is little hope of rescue. It will often attack the hunter under water, or throw itself upon the bottom of the kaiak and tear holes in it. In such a predicament, it needs very unusual self-mastery to preserve the coolness neces sary for recovering oneself upon even keel and re newing the fight with the furious adversary. And yet it sometimes happens that after being thus capsized the kaiak-man brings the seal home in triumph. A stiU more terrible adversary is the walrus ; therefore there are generally several in company when they go walrus-hunting, so that one can stand by another if anything should happen. But often enough, too, a single hunter will attack and over come this monster. The walrus, I need scarcely say, is a huge animal of as much as 16 feet (5 metres) in length, with a thick and tough hide, a deep layer of blubber, a terribly hard skull, and a powerful body. There needs, then, a sure and strong arm to kill it. The walrus has the habit, as soon as it is attacked, of turning upon its assailant, and will often, with its ugly tusks, make itself exceedingly unpleasant. If there are several A KAIAK-MAN ATTACKED BY A WALRUS THE ESKIMO AT SEA 75 walruses in a flock, they will very likely surround him and attack him all at once. Even the Norwegian hunters, who go after the walrus in large, strong boats, each containing many men, armed with guns, lances, and axes — even they stand much in aAve of it. How much more courage and skill does it re quire for the Eskimo to attack it in his frail skin canoe, with his light ingenious projectiles — and alone ! But this is no unusual occurrence for the Eskimo. He fights out his fight with his dangerous adver sary ; calmly, with his lance ready poised for throw ing, he awaits its attack, and, cooUy seizing his advantage, he at the right moment plunges the weapon into its body. Coolness is more than ever essential in walrus- hunting, for the most unforeseen difficulties may arise ; and catastrophes are by no means rare. At Kangamiut, some years ago, a kaiak was attacked from below, and a long walrus-tusk was suddenly thrust through its bottom, through the man's thigh, and right up through the deck. His comrades at once rushed to his assistance, and the man was rescued and helped ashore. Besides these animals, the Eskimo also attacks whales from his little kaiak. There is one species in 76 ESKIMO LIFE particular which is more dangerous than any other — the grampus, or, as he caUs it, ardluk. With its strength, its swiftness, and its horrible teeth, if it happens to take the offensive, it can make an end of a kaiak in an instant. Even the Eskimo fears it ; but that does not prevent him from attacking it when opportunity offers. In former times they hunted the larger whales as well, using, however, the great woman-boats, with many people in them, both men and women. For this sort of whale-hunting, says Hans Egede, ' they get themselves up in their greatest finery as if for a marriage, for otherwise the whale will avoid them ; he cannot endure uncleanliness.' The whale was harpooned, or rather pierced with a big lance, from the bow, and it sometimes happened that with a whisk of its tail it would crush the boat or capsize it. The men were often so daring as to jump on the whale's back, when it began to be exhausted, in order to give it a finishing stroke. This method of hunting is now unusual. It is not only the larger animals that expose the Eskimo to danger. Even in ordinary fishing — for example, for halibut — disasters may happen. If one has not taken care to keep the line clear, and it gets fouled in one place or another, while the strong fish is making a sudden dash for the bottom, the crank THE ESKIMO AT SEA 77 kaiak is easily enough capsized. Many have met their end in this way. But we must not dweU too long on the shady sides of life. I hope I have succeeded in givino- the reader a slight impression of the life of the Eskimo at sea, and of some of the dangers whicli are his daily lot — enough, perhaps, to have convinced him that this race is not lacking in courage when it comes to the pinch, nor in endurance and cool self- command. But the Eskimo has more than this ; when disaster overtakes him, he will" often show the rarest endurance and hardihood. In spite of the many dangers and sufferings inseparable from his industry, he devotes himself to it with joy. If the history of the Es.kim.os had ever been written, it would have been one long series of feats of courage and forti- tude ; and how much moving self-sacrifice and devo tion to others would have had to be recorded! How many deeds of heroism have been irrecover ably forgotten ! And this is the people whom we Europeans have called worthless and cowardly, and have thought ourselves entitled to despise. ESKIMO LIFE CHAPTER V WINTER-HOUSES, TENTS, WOMAN-BOATS, AND EXCURSIONS. In winter the Greenlanders live in houses built of stones and turf. They rise only from four to six feet (one and a half to two metres) above the level of the ground, and the floor is sunk somewhat beneath it. The roof is flat or slightly arched. From outside, the whole structure generally looks like an insignificant mound of earth. There is only one room in these houses, and in it several families generally live together — men and women, young and old. The roof is so low that a man of any stature can scarcely stand upright. The room forms an oblong quadrangle. Along the whole of the longer wall, opposite the door, runs the chief sleeping-bench, about six feet six inches in width, upon which sleep the married people, with grown-up unmarried daughters and young boys and girls. Here they lie in a row, side by side, with their feet towards the wall and their heads out into the room. Hans Egede Saabye says, in his before-mentioned WINTER-HOUSES, TENTS, WOMAN-BOATS, &o. 79 Journal, that they make their marriage-bed under the sleeping-bench. I saw nothing to indicate that any such practice now exists anywhere in the Godthaab district. Unmarried men generaUy lie upon smaller benches under the windows, which are in the opposite long wall, and of which there are one, two, or three, according to the size of the house. The windows were formerly filled with gut-skin, or some similar material ; but nowadays, on the west coast, glass is commonly used. Against the side walls, too — the shorter waUs — there are generally benches. These, or the window-benches, are, as a rule, assigned to strangers as their sleeping-places. When several families, as is generally the case, dweU in one house, the chief sleeping-bench is divided into staUs — one for each family. The stalls are marked off by wooden posts, placed against the outer edge of the bench, and reaching to the roof, from which low partitions extend to the back waU. It is incredible how little room they are content with. Captain Holm describes a house on the east coast which measured about twenty-seven feet by fourteen and a half, and in which dwelt eight families, consisting in all of thirty-eight persons. In one stall, four feet broad, dwelt a man with two wives and seven children. This does not give much space to each. 80 ESKIMO LIFE They use sealskins or reindeer-skins to lie upon, and also, in former days, as bedclothes, going to bed entirely naked, with the exception of the before- mentioned indoor dress. Nowadays, on the west coast, down quilts are commonly used as bedclothes. Internally, the waUs of the house were in former times always lined with skins. The floor was formed by the naked earth, partly paved with flags. Nowa days, since the introduction of so much European luxury, they have begun, on the west coast, to line the walls with boards and to lay wooden floors. They have even, to a certain extent, adopted the habit of washing the floors — so much as several times a year. The house is entered through a long and narrow passage, partly dug out beneath the level of the ground, and, like the houses, walled with stones and turf. You descend into it from the level of the ground through a hole. It is, as a rule, so low and narrow that one has to crouch one's way through it, and a large man finds it difficult enough to effect an entrance. I was told at Sardlok of a fat storekeeper from Godthaab who stuck fast at a difficult point in the passage leading to Terkel's house There he stuck, struggling and roaring, but could not advance, and still less retreat. In the end, he had to get four small boys to help him, two shoving behind and two, WINTER-HOUSES, TENTS, WOMAN-BOATS, &c. 81 from within the house, dragging him in front by the arms. They laboured and toiled in the sweat of their brows, but the man was jammed as fast as a wad in a gun-barrel, and there was some thought of puUing down the walls of the passage in order to liberate him, before he at last managed to squeeze through. If I remember rightly, a window had to be torn down in order to let him out of the house again. From the passage, you enter the house through a little square opening, usually in the front long wall, which is closed by a door or trap-door. The purpose of this passage is to prevent the cold air from coming in and the warm light air from escaping. It is to this end that it is made to lie lower than the house ; by which means, too, a little ventilation is obtained, since the heavy bad air can, to some extent, sink down into it and escape. In Greenland houses of the old style there are no fireplaces ; they are warmed, as weU as lighted, by train-oil lamps, which burn day and night. They are left burning aU night through, not merely for the sake of warmth, but also because the Eskimos are exceedingly superstitious, and therefore afraid of even sleeping in darkness. You may hear them relate, as a proof of extreme poverty, that this family or that, poor things, have to sleep at night with no lamp burning. G 82 ESKIMO LIFE The lamps are large, flat open saucers of soap- stone. They are of semi-circular form, and along the straight side lies the wick, which is formed of dry moss, or, nowadays, of cotton. These lamps rest on a wooden stand, and are placed on a little table or raised place in front of the sleeping-bench. There is generally one of these lamp-tables to each family. If several families dwell in one house, there are many lamps, for each family has at least one burning, and, as a rule, more. In former days, food used to be cooked over these lamps in soapstone pots, which hung from the roof. The preparation of food, like every other business of life, of course went on in the common room. So it is to this day on the east coast. • On the west coast, modern civilisation has effected a change, in so far that food is now generally cooked in a special room with a fireplace, built on to the side of the passage leading into the house. Peat is used as fuel in these fireplaces, and also lumps of dried sea gulls' dung. Iron saucepans, too, bought at the stores in the colonies, are now used instead of soap- stone pots. Many West Greenlanders have, moreover, become so highly sophisticated as to have bought stoves, which they use instead of the train-oil lamps for heating their houses. The fuel used is the same as WINTER-HOUSES, TENTS, WOMAN-BOATS, &o. 83 that mentioned above. At the same time, however, the indispensable lamps are kept burning, for the sake of light, if for no other reason. Li former days the houses were generaUy large, and several families lived in each. By this means they were able to economise in fuel, and they lived warmly and comfortably, while in many other ways the habitation in common was found advantageous. In this point the influence of the Europeans has been unfortunate. They have encouraged the dis tribution of the families into separate small houses, and have even offered prizes for house-building; it was thought to be such a grand thing that each famUy should have its own home for itself. The result was that the houses became poorer and colder, more material in proportion was needed for warming and fighting — material which was not always forth coming — and the advantages of the old system of partial communism were sacrificed ; so that the separation tended to the greater discomfort of the greater number. In winter, when everything is frozen hard, these houses are aU well enough ; but in summer, when the moisture exudes i'rom the thawing waUs and the roof leaks and sometimes falls in, they are anything but wholesome dweUing-places. As soon as spring arrives, therefore, with the month of April, the G 2 84 ESKIMO LIFE Greenlanders used always in former days to quit their houses, often unroofing them themselves, in order that they might be thoroughly ventilated and washed out by the autumn rains — an exceedingly simple method of house-cleaning. The whole summer through, and a good way into the autumn (until September or October), the Greenlanders dwelt in tents, each family, as a rule, having its own. These tents are of a peculiar semi circular form, with the entrance-door in the high flat side. Internally, they are arranged very like the houses, with the sleeping-bench running along the curved back wall opposite to the door, which is closed with a curtain of semi-transparent gut- skin. The waUs of the tent consist of an outer layer of water-tight skin with the hair taken off (old boat-skins being used as a rule), and an inner layer of reindeer- or seal-skin with the fur turned inwards. These tents are tolerably warm, and in them, as in their houses, they go without clothes. The woman-boat is inseparably connected with this summer tent-life. These boats, which are from 30 to 40 feet long (10 to 12 metres), have received their name from the Europeans, because, unlike the kaiaks, they are rowed by women. They are entirely open boats, consisting of a wooden framework covered with sealskin, and are 1 M fa* Vv>"^v*