YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Pyramid Lake, Oregon.

PICTORIAL EDITION!!!

NEW YORK:
CORNISH, LAMPORT & Co
267 PEARL-STREET. 1851.

YALE

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 18#\
By NAFIS & CORNISH,
is the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for, t
Southern District of New York.

/gS7

Stereotyped by Vincent Din, Jr.,
No. 21 Ann Street, N. T.

PREFACE.

In sending out the following sheets, the Author has dec* what
a year ago was as far removed from the path of his intentions, as the
theatre of the incidents related is from the fireside at which they were
written. But -who can estimate the force of circumstances in shaping
his destiny 1
I wrote my Travels in the Great "Western Prairies, &c, with little
belief that they would excite any attention beyond the circle in which
personal friendship would in some sense link the reader with the events
narrated. I did not comprehend the extensive interest felt in journey-
ings over the wild and barren realms of uncultivated Nature. I did
not suppose that the dim outline which words could give of the snow-
clad peak, the desert vale, and the trials and dangers which crowd
about the pilgrim on the "Western Deserts and Mountains, could be
made sufficiently distinct to convey even a satisfactory shadow of their
sublime, fearful nature. But the very unexpected favor with which
that work has been received, has led me to conclude that such matters,
related as far as they may be at all, with fidelity, are valued as useful
knowledge. Indeed, we may learn much from the pulseless solitudes
—from the desert untrodden by the foot of living thing — -from the
frozen world of mountains, whose chasms and cliffs never echoed to
aught, but the thunder-tempests girding their frozen peaks— from old
Nature, piled, rocky, bladeless, toneless — if we will allow its lessons
of awe to reach the mind, and impress it with the fresh and holy
images which they were made to inspire.
The work now presented is another attempt of the same kind. It
differs from the previous one, however, in many particulars. The
Grea' South Sea, the Hawaian Islands, and the Californias are its

IV PREFACE.
theme. Upper and Lower California, their conquest by the Spaniards,
Indians, white inhabitants, their present state, surface, vegetation,
streams, plains, mountains, volcanoes, animals — all these as they have
been, and now are, will be found fully described. To what I have seen
has been added authentic information from every known source. And
now, dear reader, to your task. Mine is done. Should you laugh and
Weep, suffer and rejoice, with the actors in the wayfarings before you,
and send your fancy in after-times over those rose-clad realms where
they will lead you, and feel the dews of a pleasant remembrance falling
On your life, I shall receive a full reward for my toil.
Adieu,
THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
The editor of this new Pictorial Edition of Famam's " Adventures,"
has added a History of the Conquest of California, from official documents
and other authentic materials. He has also added a summary account of
the most reoent and celebrated " Travels in Oregon," including a descrip
tion of that new and important addition to our national domain. He has
also added fifty-three pages of embellishments appropriate to the several
subjects treated in the volume.
The reader will perceive that, thus augmented, the work contains much
that is important and interesting to all who feel desirous to watch the on
ward march of the Great Republic.

CHAPTER I,
A Reminiscence — A Spectacle — Oregon— Landward and Seaward— The
Great South Sea— Magic Palace— Taking in Studding-sails— Caverns-
Storm in Full Blast— Professor of Psalmody— Fur Hunter— A British
Tar— An Author— A Seaboat— A Corkscrew— A Flagon— A Conversa
tion about Life in the Northwest — Its Dogs— Logs-^Food— Surface —
Lords of the North— Frozen Mountains— Moss — Flowers — Potatoes,
Oats and Barley— Indian Wives and Sheep— The Arctic Shores-Suicide
of a Brave Man— A Solo— Eel Pond— Ghost in the Shrouds— Tumult in
Upper and Lower Ocean— Minor Key— War-cry— Special Pleading—
The Sea— Wine and Song— To Bed.
In a workentitled "Travels in the Great Western Prairies,"
&c, to which the following pages are a sequel, I left my
readers off the mouth of Columbia river, in sight of the
green coast of Oregon. Lower Oregon ! A verdant belt of
wild loveliness !< — A great park of flowering shrubs, of forest
pines, and clear streams ! The old unchanged home of the
Indian ; where he has hunted the moose and deer ; drawn
the trout from the lake, and danced, sung, loved, and war
red away a thousand generations. I cannot desire for my
self any remembrances of the Past which shall bring me more
genuine wealth of pleasurable emotions than those which
came to me from that fourth sunset of December, 1840, when
I was leaning over the bulwarks of the ship Vancouver,
looking back on Oregon, and seaward over the great Pacific !
A spectacle of true grandeur ! The cones of eternal snow
which dot the green heights of the President's range of
mountains, rose on the dark outline of the distant land, and

6 ¦ SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
hung glittering on the sky, like islands of precious stones ;
so brightly did they shine in the setting sun, and so com
pletely did the soft clouds around their bases seem to sepa
rate them from the world below !
The shores of Lower Oregon ! They rise so boldly from
the sea ! Themselves mountains sparsely clad with lofty
pines, spruce and cedar trees, nodding over the deep !
And then the ground under water ! No flats, no mud-
banks there. The cliffs are piled up from the bottom of the
ocean ! The old Pacific, with his dark depths, lies within
one hundred yards of them ! And the surges that run in
from the fury of the tempests, roll with unbroken force to
the towering rocks, and breaking with all their momentum
at once, making the land tremble, and send far seaward a
mighty chorus to the shouting storm !
The Pacific ! the Great South Sea ! It was heaving at our
bows ! steadily, wave on wave came and went and follow •
ing each other in ceaseless march pressed onward ; like the
world's hosts in marshalled files, they hastened past us, as
if intent to reach the solid shores, where some resistance
would broach their hidden strength and pour their fury out !
Behold, the sea ! Its troubled wastes are bending and top
pling with a wild, plashing, friendly sound ; a deep, blue,
uncertain vastness ; itself cold and passive ; but under the
lash of the tempest, full of terrific life ! Our ship stood
staunch upon the palpitating mass, and seemed to love it.
Mizen and mizen-top, main and main -top, fore and fore-
topsails, and the lower weather studding-sails were out. The
breeze from the lafTd which had carried us over the bar still
held, every thread of canvass drew, every cord was tight, and
as we looked up through the rigging to the sky, the sails,
cordage and masts swayed under the clouds like the roofing
of some magic palace of olden tales. All hands were on
deck ; both watches sat about the windlass ; while the second
officer and mate looked at the horizon over the weather-how,
and pointed out a line of clouds crowding ominously up the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 7
southwestern sky. The captain stood upon the companion-
way, looking at the barometer. In a little time officers and
passengers gathered in a knot on the larboard-quarter.
" I ken there's a storm comin' up frae the soo'est," said
the Scotch mate.
" The clouds loom fast, sir, in that quarter," said Mr.
Newell, the American second-mate. " I reckon it will be
upon us soon."
Captain Duncan needed no information in regard to the
weather on these shores. He was everywhere an accomplish
ed seaman. On the quarter-deck — with his quadrant — on
the spars — and at the halyards ; but especially in that pro
phetic knowledge of the weather, which gives the sons of
Neptune their control over the elements, he had no superiors.
" Take in the studding-sails and make all fast on deck,"
is the order, issued with quietness and obeyed with alacrity.
Water casks, long-boat, and caboose are lashed, ropes
coiled Up and hung on the pins in the bulwarks, and the
hatches put down in storm rig. The wind before which
we were running abated, and the horizon along the line of
departing light began to lift a rough undulating edge.
" Take in the mainsail !" "Go aloft and take a reef in
the maintop !" " In with the fore-main, and let the trysail
run !" followed each other in haste, as the sailors moved to
the cheering music of their songs in the work of preparing
the ship to wrestle with a southwester. Everything being
made snug, we waited its coming.
The rough water which appeared a mere speck when the
wind came upon the circle of vision, had widened till its ex
treme points lay over the bows. On it came, widening and
elevating itself more and more ! The billows had previously
.been smooth, or at least ruffled sufficient only to give their
gently heaving sides a furzy aspect, while the tops occasional
ly rose in transparent combs, which immediately crumbled by
their own weight into foam down their leeward acclivities.
But now a stronger spirit had laid his arm on these ocean
2 .

8 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
coursers. The wind came on, steadily increasing its might
from moment to moment ! At first it tore the tops of the
waves into ragged lines, then rent the whole surface into frag
ments of every conceivable form, which rose, appeared and
vanished, with the rapidity of thought, dancing like sprites
among the lurid moving caverns of the sea ! A struggling
vastness ! constantly broken by the flail of the tempest, and
as often reunited, to be cleft still farther by a redoubled blast.
The darkness thickened as the storm increased ; and when
the lanthorn was lighted in the binnacle, and the night-
watch set, the captain and passengers went below to their
wine and anecdotes. Our company consisted of four per
sons. One was a singing-master from Connecticut, Texas,
New Orleans, and St. Louis. He was such an animal as
one would wish to find if ho were making up a human me
nagerie ; so positive was he of step, so lofty in the neck,
and dignified in the absurd blunders wherewith he perpetu
ally corrected the opinions and assertions of others.
Another, was a Mr. Simpson, a young Scotchman of re
spectable family, a clerk in the service of the Hudson's Bay
Company. This was a fine fellow, twenty-five years of
age, full of energy and good feeling, well-informed on gene
ral topics, and like most other British subjects abroad,
troubled with an irrepressible anxiety at the growing power
t)f the States, and an overwhelming loyalty toward the
mother-country and its Sovereign skirts. The other per
sonages were the commander, Duncan, and the author.
The Captain was an old British tar, with a heart full of
• generosity for his friends, and a fist full of bones for his ene
mies. A glass of cheer with a messmate, and a rope's end
for a disobedient sailor, were with him impromptu produc
tions, for which he had capacity and judgment ; a hearty,
five foot nine inch, burly, stout-chested Englishman, whom
it was always pleasant to see and hear.
This little company gathered around the cabin table, and
all as one listened a moment to the beatings of the tempest.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIA S. 9
A surge — another— and a third still heavier, heat upon the
noble ship and sent a thrill through every timber. On they
rolled, and dashed, and groaned. But her iron heart only
seemed to gather strength from the conflict, and inspire
us with a feeling of perfect safety.
" A fine sea-boat is the Vancouver, gentlemen," said Cap
tain Duncan, " she. rides the storm like a petrel :" and with
this comfortable assurance we seated ourselves at the table.
I had nearly forgotten Tom, the cabin-boy; a mere
mouse of a lad ; who knew the rock of a ship and the turn
of a corkscrew as well as any one ; and as he was spry,
had a short name, a quick ear, and bore the keys to the
sideboard and some things elsewhere, all well-bred stomachs
would not fail to blast my quill, If I omitted to write his
name and draw his portrait.
Well, Tom was one of those sons of old England, who
are born to the inheritance of poverty, and a brave heart for
the seas. Like many thousand children of the Fatherland,
when the soil refused him bread, he was apprenticed for the
term of seven years to seamanship. And there he was, an
English sailor-boy, submitting to the most rigorous discipline,
serving the first part of his time in learning to keep his cabin
in order, and wait at the table, that when, as he was taught to
expect, he should have a ship of his own, he might know
how to be served like a gentleman. This part of his appren
ticeship he performed admirably. And when he shall leave
the cork-screw and the locker for the quarter-deck, I doubt
not he will screamat a storm, and utter his commands with suf
ficient imperiousness to entitle him to have a Tom of his own.
." Tom,;' said Captain Duncan, " bring out a flagon of Ja
maica, and set on the glasses, lad. This stoan, gentlemen,
calls for cheers. When Neptune labors at this pace, he
loves his dram. Fill gentlemen, to absent wives." This
compliment to the sacred ascendency of the domestic affec
tions was timely given. The storm howled hideously for
our lives, our families were far distant over seas and moun-

10

SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.

tains, the heart was pressed with sadness : we drank in
silence and with swimming eyes.
A pleasant conversation followed this toast, in which
each one of our little band exhibited himself in his own
way. The Captain was a hearty old Saxon, who had in
herited from a thousand generations, a love for home, its
hearth and blazing evening fire, its old oaken table, its fami
ly arm-chair, and the wife who presided over that temple of
holy affections. In him, therefore, we had the genuine
spirit of those good old times when man used his physical and
mental powers, to build about his heart the structures of posi
tive happiness, instead of the artificial semblances of these,
which fashion and affectation draw around the modern home.
Our professor of psalmody was the opposite of this. He
had, when the red blood of youth warmed his heart, in the
ways of honest nature, spoken sweet things to a lovely girl,
won her affections, promised marriage, and as his beard grew
became a gentleman ; that is , jilted her. He, therefore, was
fond of freedom, could not be confined to so plain and quiet a
business as the love of one woman, and the care of a family
of children. " It was quite horrid, indeed it was, for a man
who had any music in his soul ; the mere idea was concen
trated picra to his moral stomach ; the thought, bah ! that a
gentleman could ever think of being a daddy, and trotting on
his paternal knee a semi-yearling baby."
Mr. Simpson was from the braes of Scotland. For many
years he had lived an isolated and roving life, among the
nows, morasses, and lakes of the wilderness, which lies west
and north-west of Hudson's Bay. He had been taught his
catechism at kirk, and also a proper respect for the ties of the
domestic sentiments. But the peculiar idea of manliness
which grows up in those winter realms of danger, privation,
and loneliness, had gradually habituated him to speak of
these relations as desirable mainly when the body had ex
pended its energy in striding mountains, in descending rocky

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 11
torrents with boats laden with furs, and in the other bold
enterprises of these daring traders.
From him we obtained a description of some portions of
that vast country occupied by the Hudson's Bay Company ;
and some information on other topics connected with it.
Life in the Company's service was briefly described. Their
travelling is performed in various ways at different seasons of
the year and in different latitudes. In Oregon their journeys
are chiefly made in Mackinaw boats and Indian canoes.
With these they ascend and descend the various streams, bear
ing their cargoes, and often their boats, from the head- waters
of one to those of another. In this manner they pass up the
Cowelitz and descend the Chihilis with their furs and other
goods ; thus do they reach the head-waters of the northern
fork of the Columbia, pass over the Rocky Mountains, and
run down the rivers and lakes to Canada. Farther north on
the east side of the Rocky Mountain range, they travel much
on foot in summer, and in winter (which is there the greatest
part of the year) on sledges drawn by dogs. Ten or twelve
of these animals are attached to a light sledge, in which the
man sits wrapped in furs and surrounded by meat for his car
nivorous steeds and provisions for himself. Thus rigged, the
train starts on the hard snow crust, and make eighty or one
hundred miles before the dogs tire. When the time for rest
comes, they are unharnessed, fed, tied to the bushes or shrubs,
and the traveller enveloped in furs, addresses himself to sleep
under the lea of a snow-bank or precipitous rock. When na
ture is recruited the train is again harnessed and put on route.
The Aurora Borealis, which flames over the skies of those
latitudes, illuminates the country so well, that the absence
of the sun during the winter months offers no obstacles to
these journeyings. Drawn by dogs over mountain and plain,
under heavens filled with electric crackling light, the travel
ler feels that his situation harmonizes well with the sublime
desolation of that wintry zone. In this manner these ad-

12 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
venturous men travel from the mouth of Mackenzie's river
to York on Hudson's Bay and to Canada.
Their dwellings are usually constructed of logs in the
form of our frontier cabins. They are generally surrounded
by pickets, and in other respects arranged so as to resist any
attack which the neighboring savages may make upon them.
They are usually manned by an officer of the Company and
a few Canadian Frenchmen. In these rude castles, rising
in the midst of the frozen north, live the active and fearless
gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company; The frosts of the
poles can neither freeze the blood nor the energy of men
who spring from the little Island of Britain. The torrid,
the temperate, and the frozen zones alike hear the language
and acknowledge the power of that wonderful race.
The food of these traders is as rude as their mode of life. At
most of the Forts they live almost exclusively on the white
and other kinds of fish ; no vegetables of any description are
obtainable ; an occasional deer or woods buffalo or musk ox is
procured ; but seldom is their fare changed from the produce
of the lakes and streams. At a few of their stations not even
these can be had ; and the company is obliged to supply them
with pemican. This is buffalo meat dried, finely pulverized,
mixed with fat and service berries, and secured in leathern
sacks. They transport this from latitudes forty-eight and
nine to different places on Mackenzie's river, and other parts
of the extreme north. Wild fowls, geese and ducks afford
another means of subsistence. At York and other posts in
the neighborhood of lakes, large numbers of these fowl are
taken in the summer season, and salted for winter use. But
with all their painstaking, these gentlemen live but poorly ;
on a diet of flesh alone, and that of an indifferent quality.
Hardy men are these lords of the snow. Their realm em
braces one-ninth of the earth. This immense territory Mr.
Simpson informed us has a great variety of surface.
On the north-eastern portion lie extensive tracts of per
petually frozen mountains, cut by narrow valleys filled with

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS, 13
fallen cliffs, among which dash and rOar numerous rivers
on their way to the frozen sea. Scarcely any timber or
other vegetation grows in these wastes. A lonely evergreen
or a stunted white birch takes root here and there, and dur
ing the few weeks of summer, mosses and linchens pre
sent a few verdant spots in the damp recesses of the rocks.
But cold winds, laden with hail and sleet, howl over the
budding of every green thing ! The flowers can scarcely
show their petals and set their seeds, before winter with its
cracking ices and falling snow embraces them !
The section of country which lies about Mackensie's
river, differs from that described, in having dense forests
skirting portions of the valleys, and large plains of moss
and linchen, on' which feed the deer, buffalo, musk-ox and
moose. The river itself is, in summer months, navigable
for batteaux several hundred miles. It is well stored with
trout, salmon, white and other fish. But the winters there
also scarcely end, before they begin again their work of
freezing land, stream, and sea.
The extensive country lying on the head waters of the
streams which run northward into the Frozen Ocean, east
ward into Hudson's Bay, and southward into the Canadian
waters, is composed of swamps, broken at intervals with
piles of boulders and minor mountains, and dotted with
clumps of bushes, plots of hassocks, and fields of wild rice.
The waters of these table-lands form many lakes and lofty
cascades on the way to their several destinations. The
roar of these on the dreadful frozen barrenness around, Mr.
Simpson represented to be awful in the extreme ; so wild,
hoarse, and ringing are their echoes.
We are informed that there are considerable tracts of
arable land on the western side of Hudson's Bay, occupied
by several settlements of Scotch : that these people culti
vate nothing but potatoes, oats, barley, and some few garden
vegetables ; and are altogether in a very undesirable con
dition. He also informed us of a tract of tillable land,

14 SCENESINTHE PACIFIC.
lying some hundreds of miles northeast of Lake Superior,
on which Lord Selkirk had founded a colony ; that this
settlement contains about three thousand people, composed
chiefly of gentlemen and servants, who have retired from
the Company's service with their Indian wives and half-
breed children. They cultivate considerable tracts of land,
have cattle and horses, schools and churches, a Catholic
Bishop and a Protestant preacher of the English Church.
Some years since a Mr. McLeod, from this settlement, went
to Indiana and purchased a very large drove of sheep for its
use. But in driving them a thousand miles over the prairies,
their fleeces became so matted with poisonous burrs, that
most of them died before reaching their place of destination.
Mr. Simpson related a few incidents of an exploring ex
pedition, which the Company had despatched to the northern
coast of America. The unsatisfactory results of those fitted
out by the home goverment, under Parry, Franklin, Ross,
and Back, which had been partially furnished with men and
means by the Company, led it at length to undertake one
alone. To this end it despatched, in 1838, one of its officers,
accompanied by our friend Simpson's brother, well furnished
with men, instruments, and provisions on this hazardous en
terprise. I have since been informed, that this Mr. Simpson
was a man of great energy and talent — the one indeed on
whom the Company relied for the success of the undertaking.
From his brother I learned only that the unexplored part of
the coast'was surveyed, that the waters of Davis' Strait were
found to flow with a strong current westward, and enter the
Pacific through Behring's Strait ; and that Greenland conse
quently is an island or continent by itself ! The Mr. Simpson
of this expedition is now known to the civilized world to have
trodden the ices and snows, and breathed the frozen air of
that horrid shore ; and by so doing to have added these great
facts to the catalogue of human knowledge ; and having be
come deranged in consequence of his incredible sufferings,
to have blown out his own brains on the field of his glorious

: RAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 15
deeds. Our companion, poor fellow, was happily ignorant
of that sad event, and spoke of the expedition only as one
of great hardship, yet such as he would have gladly shared.
His brave kinsman was then dead !
When Mr. Simpson pausedin these interesting narrations,
our professor of psalmody, who had been beating the table
with a tuning-fork, opened a solo upon Texas. He had been
in that country, and Was, in his own estimation, as familiar
with its rivers, plains, forests and destiny, as with the paths
across his father's sheep pasture. Galveston was a London
in embryo : Sam Houston had inherited the knee-buckles
and shoe-knots of Washington's patriotism : the whole
country was an Eden in which he had obtained the best site
for a grist-mill and the finest pond for eels ! In short, we were
informed in a tone of self-consequence, at least an octave
above mi, on any known scale of conceit, that himself and a
brace of fellow blades, on hearing that the government had
offered a bounty of land to emigrants, went thither, remained
long enough to perfect their title to a share of the public do
main, and were then obliged by pressing business to return
to the States and leave others to fight and die for freedom.
He had a belief that the Californias would make a respec
table abode for man, if it were conquered by a bold arm, a
little music, and made into a Republic by a man, he did not
mention his own name, whose character for bravery, intelli
gence and taste for the fine arts, he did not say psalmody,
would draw around him the unemployed intellect and cou
rage of the States. In conclusion he modestly remarked, thai
he himself was destined to the Californias, but did not say
that he intended to open there a revolutionary singing-school.
While this conversation was going on, the good old ship
was struggling with the tempest. She headed north
westerly, and as the storm and swells came from the south
west, she at one time lay in the trough of the sea, and then,
as the wave bore down upon her, swayed to the leeward a
moment, rocked upon its summit, and as the surge passed
o

16 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
on, reeled to the windward and slid into the trough again.
This is the bitterest motion of a ship at sea, whether he
whom it staggers be a " land lubber" or " salt." The lat
ter finds it difficult to take his watch -walk from the wind
lass to the fore-stays, and swears that such a lullaby is as un
worthy of the ocean god as it is unseemly for a decent sailor,
to stand, at one instant with one leg clewed up and the
other out, arid the next clewed the other way, and be com
pelled, at each change, to brace himself back in the attitude
of being frightened to death by a ghost in the shrouds.
The landsman, may perhaps feel too much awe to swear
at the great deep, employed in its sublime labors ; or if he
dare profane thus the majesty of his Maker's movements,
his noble self is usually the object of so much solicitude as
to deny him any adequate opportunity of doing so. His
stomach will demand much of the attention which he would
fain bestow upon other objects ; and it will scarcely be re
fused what it requires. We sat at the table till eight bells.
A delightful chit-chat we had ; such a variety of wisdom,
such splendor of reminiscence, such bolts of reason rending
and laying bare all the mines of thought were there !
But this and all that we had in expectancy that night
ended not in smoke ; that would have been land-like ; but
in a stealthy withdrawal of our company, one at a time, to
pay their tribute to Padre Neptune. The singing master
struck minor key first ; the fur hunter followed with his
war-cry ; the Green Mountain lawyer came to the encoun
ter with a throat full of special pleading ; and after a hot
melee each surrendered, on such terms as he could procure,
all claim to the inborn rights of a quiet stomach and clean
nose ; and turned in. The night was passed by us in the
cabin in clinging to our berths. The seamen on deck struck
the bells, changed the watch, and stood out like iron men
on the. tide of that terrible tempest! Their thrilling " 0
he oe" occasionally cut sharply and cheeringly into the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 17
hoarse cadences of the storm ! Every other sound of liv
ing thing was buried in the clangor of the elements. •
The next morning opened with gloomy grandeur. The
clouds brightened by the first rays of the sun in detached
spots only, appearing and disappearing in rapid succession,
intimated that the whole mass of aerial fluid was fleeing at a
fearful pace before the unabated tempest. As the light in
creased into full day, the canopy hung so dark and densely
down the heavens, that night appeared to have retained
the half of its dominion. It need not touch the water as
fogs do ; but the massive heavy fold left between itself and
the surface of the ocean, a space apparently three hundred
yards in depth. That was a sight to wonder at. I could
conceive of nothing in nature so far beyond the power of
words to portray. Does the simile of a boundless tomb,
vaulted with mourning crape, shaken by fierce winds, half
lighted, filled with death-screams, represent it 1 I cannot
tell : but such an idea rose as I looked out upon the scene.
Old Ocean, too, was in a glorious mood. I had often
seen the Atlantic lay with his mighty bosom heaving to
the sky, calm and peaceful like a benevolent giant slumber
ing on a world of lesser things ; or, to use no figure, I had
seen it slightly agitated, every particle tremulous under a
soft breeze, every drop sending back the sunshine, or mul
tiplying indefinitely the stars of a clear June night. I had
seen it when the swells were torn by a " dry squall," or
an hour's "blow," andheard its icebergs crack and plunge ;
and seen its fearful waterspouts marching so near me that
I could hear their awful roar ! But I had not seen it raised
and rent, in the height of its tumult and power. All this
was now before me in the great Pacific.
At ten o'clock the storm had gained its utmost strength.
The ship was laid to. The waves were dashing over her
bulwarks. The Captain was standing braced upon the
weather quarter, dressed in a long pea-jacket, stout sea-
pants and boots, an oil- cloth cap covering head and shoul-

18 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
ders. The watch on duty were huddled under the weather
bow and lashed to the stays to prevent being washed over
board. The second mate stood midship, holding fast to the
rigging. All were looking at the storm. The ship herself
lay like a lost water bird, rising, falling, buried and mount
ing again, among the overwhelming waves.
The appearance of the sea! — Who can describe it1?
Like the land, it had its valleys, and mountains, and
streams. But its vales, instead of flowers and grasses,
were covered with wisps of torn water ; the mountains in
stead of snowy peaks, were billows, Crested with combs of
light blue water, tipped with foam, perpetually tumbling
down and forming again, as the floods rushed on, lashing
one another. And the streams were not such as flow
through meadows and woodlands among creeping flower •
vines; but swift eddies, whirling through the heaying
taverns of the sea.
Its voice ! Its loud bass notes ! — What is like it ? Not
the voice of the storms which assemble with lightning,
thunder and wind, and pour devastating hail and fire on
the upper heights and vales of the Rocky Mountains. Nor
is it like the deep monitory groan that booms down the
Great Prairie Wilderness at midnight, growing louder as it
draws near, until the accumulated electricity ignites in one
awful explosion, rending the clouds and tearing up the
shaken ground ! Nor is it like the voice of Niagara.
That great cataract of the earth has a majestic stave^ a
bold sound, as it leaps from the poised brink to the whirl
ing depths below ! And when the ancient woods, with all
their leafy canopies and ringing crags, stood up around it,
and neither the hammer of the smith, nor other din of cul
tivated life, cast its vexing discords among the echoes, the
sounds of Niagara must have resembled this sublime duett
of the sea and storm ; but never equalled it ! It was a
single note of nature's lofty hymns. To the ear of the
Indian who stood upon the shelving rocks and heard it ;

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 19
who saw the floods come coursing down .the rapids, bend
jpon the brink,' and plunge with quickened speed into the
vexed caldron, sending their peals to the rainbowed hea
ven, they must have borne an anthem as grand as his wild
mind could compass — greater even. His bow must have
dropped, and himself and the unharmed deer stood to
gether, in mute wonder at Niagara chanting to the shades
and silence of the old American Wilderness !
But the song of the sea ! Is it not more than this 1 Miles
in depth ; hundreds of leagues in breadth ; an immensity
drop on drop and mass on mass in motion ! The tempest
piles up the surface into lofty ridges, every inch of which
emits a peculiar liquid sound, which, mingling sweetly with
each other far and wide, pulsates through the surrounding
air and water ! Sweet and boundless melodies of the seas !
Ve know that the incumbent air takes up a part of them,
while another part goes down into the still and motionless
depths below; the sublime unbroken darkness of the sea!
It was unpleasant to feel that the. screaming cordage of our
ships and the quarrelling of the hull and the waves, should
deprive us of hearing the tones of the Pacific waters, during
the strength of a hurricane, unmarred by any other sound.
Can it ever be given man to hear it 1 It is the Creator's
great choir ! Ocean tuned by His own hand, and swept by
the. fingers of His tempest!
Our good ship, carrying barely sail enough to make
her obey the helm, beat from the southeast to the north
west. On the outward tack we generally made a few miles
on our course, a part of which we lost on the other. It
was vexatious to be buffetted thus to no purpose ; to have
our stomachs in a tumult; our jaws grinding down our
teeth instead of eating ; but withal it was very amusing. I
had always thought men in a tolerable state of misery, pos
sessed increased capacities to render themselves ridiculous.
A number of common-place things proved this idea to be
true. Turning-in was one of these. This is a process of

20 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
going to-bed ; extraordinary in nothing else than the novel
manner in which it is performed at sea in a gale.
The reader will pardon me. Please step into the cabin
of the Vancouver, and be seated by the nice little grate,
filled with blazing coals from the mines of Paget's Sound.
You will perhaps amuse one eye with Tarn O'Shanter,
while with the other you explore. The six foot lawyer is
gathering toward his berth. It is the lower one on the lar
board side of the cabin. His countenance, you will ob
serve, is in a miniature tempest. The ship rolls suddenly,
his feet slip from under him, and he slides under the table
accompanied by a bag of apples, a scuttle of coal, Tom
the cabin-boy, and a hot poker ! Coal, apples, and the
law strown in indiscriminate confusion ! As one might ex
pect the lawyer extricates himself from his difficulty, enters
a " nolle prosequi" against further proceedings in that direc
tion, and stretches himself in his berth, without attempting
to persuade his wardrobe to take separate lodgings.
The fur-trader seems determined to undress. Accord
ingly, when the ship, in her rollings, is nearly right side
up, he attempts to take off his coat ; unfortunately, how
ever, when he has thrown it so far back as to confine his
arms, the ship lurches heavily, and piles him up in a cor
ner of the cabin ! Odds-blood ! how his Scotch under-jaw
smites the upper ! It appears that wrath usually fights its
battles in that part of mortality to a greater dr less, extent.
On this occasion our friend's teeth seem to have been ignited
and his eyes set blazing by the concussion ! As, however.
there is nothing in particular to fight but the sea, and Xer
xes has used up the glory of that warfare, the fur-dealei
takes to his berth, without further demonstration of him
self than to say that he thinks " the devil's tail is whisking
in the storm," and that " his oxfoot majesty and the fin-
tailed god must be quarrelling stoutly about the naiads."
But the professor of psalmody is not to be prevented by
these failures from unrobing himself for the embraces of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 21
Somnus ; not he: " And if the planks of the ship will float
me long enough it shall be done." He does not say that
he is on his way to the conquest of the Californias ; and
that he will strip himself of his blue roundabout, as he will
that beautiful country of its ill-fitting tyranny. His berth
.'s on the starboard side. The ship is pitching and dodging
like a spent top. How his bravery will end under such
circumstances is a question of no little interest. But that
something will soon be done you perceive becomes evident ;
for now as the starboard side lowers on the retreating wave,
he seizes his outer garment with both hands, and with a
whistle and jump that would do credit to a steam-car off the
track, wrenches himself out of it just in time to seize the
edge of his berth as the next surge strikes the ship and
throws it suddenly on the other side. His vest comes off
with more ease and less danger. Boots, too, are drawn
without accident. But the pants! they are tight! He
loosens the buttons ; slides them down ; with one hand he
holds fast to the berth ; pulls off the left leg with the other,
and is about extricating the right foot, but, alas ! that sud
den jerk of the ship scatters his half-clad person, bravery,
pants and all, among the trembling trunks, stools, table-
legs, &c, to the manifest detriment of the outer bark of his
limbs ! At this moment Mr. Simpson is in the midst of his
favorite passage —
" Ah Tarn, ah- Tarn, thou 'It get thy fairin',
In hell they '11 roast thee like a herin'."
The professor of psalmody, after some search, finds him
self again, and with courage unimpeached, lies down in
silence.

CHAPTER II.
The next Morning— Eating — Mermaids — Cupid— A Sack of Bones on its
Legs — Love — A Grandsire — She was a Woman — Chickens — A Black
Son o' the De'il — A Crack o' the Claymore — Sublimity — Tropical Sight
—Paternal Star— Cook— A Sense— Edge of the Trades— A Night—
" On Deck" — A Guess— A Look and Doubt — To be JJwmbfoundered — A
"Bird Note — Mouna-Kea — Christmas Eve — Watch-Fires of Angels —
Birds — Fish — Homestead-i— Hawaiians — The Land — Moratai — Mooring
—Landing at Honolulu— A Slice of Bull— Poi— The Death Wail-
Hospitality — The Lover and his Destination— The Fur Hunter on the
Back Track — The Professor of Psalmody.
The next morning the storm was unabated. The furies
seemed abroad. It was a cold sleety day. Both the at
mosphere and the ocean looked like maniacs. Not a shred
of the visible world seemed at ease with itself! Commo
tion, perpetual growls, screams and groans, came up from
the tempestuous deep ! Above were clouds, hurrying as
from a falling world ! Below was the ocean shaking !
Eating on this day was attended to in a very slight degree.
When the dinner bell rang we were all on deck, standing in
utter abandonment, to whatever the Fates might have in re
serve for us. Not one would have broken a Christmas wish
bone with the prettiest girl living, to decidet whether we
should go below or be tumbled overboard. Captain Duncan
was a skilful diagnostician in all such cases. He urged us
below. But the thought of bringing our nasal organs into
the full odor of bilge water, the steam of smoking meat, po
tatoes, and bean soup, arrested our steps. The good Cap
tain, however, pressed us with renewed kindness, and we
dragged ourselves down to the table. Ye Mermaids, how
could ye ever learn to eat at sea ! How could ye, rocked to

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 23
sleep in infancy by the billows, educated in the school of
the tempest, learn to hold your heads still enough to comb
your glistening tresses ! and much more get food within
your pearly grinders !
Pictures of woe were we, starving, yet loathing food ;
thirsting, yet unable to drink ; wishing for a mote of the
stable world to look upon, yet having nothing but the un
stable water and air ; imprisoned on the rolling deck, with
no foothold, or any odor of flower or earth around. I am
reminded here how interesting to the antiquarian would be
the inquiry, whether or not Cupid was ever at sea in a
storm. If he were, he would have crowned Hogarth's im
mortality with its richest wreath, if transferred to canvass,
in the act of running from the dinner-table, throwing his
quiver behind him, and tipping his roguish face, bloated
with the effort of a retching stomach, over the taffrail.
Poor fellow, it makes one quiver to think if there ever were
a Cupid, and he ever took passage from the Columbia river
to the Hawaiian islands, and ever did attempt to eat, and
while doing so were obliged to conform to the etiquette of
sea sickness, how sadly he must have suffered, and how
unlovely the arrow-god must have become !
This sea-sickness, however, is a farce of some conse
quence. Like the toothache, fever and ague, and other kin
dred follies of the body it has its origin in  the faculty will
please answer what. But seriously. It is an effort of our na-
. ture to assimilate its physical condition to the desires of the
mind. Man's natural home as an animal is on land. As an in
tellectual being he seeks to pass this bound, and resorting to
his capacity to press the powers of external nature into the
service of his desires, he spikes planks to timbers, commits
himself to the waves, rocks on their crests, habituates head
and foot to new duties, and, girded with the armor of his im
mortal part, that wealth of Heaven, goes forth, the image and
representative of his Maker, to see, to know, and to enjoy all
'things. But a truce to philosophy. We are on the sea. The ¦

24 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
elements have raved twelve days and areat rest again. Quiet
and variable breezes from the north push us pleasantly
along ; appetites return ; we shave our chins, comb our hair,
and-begin once more to wear the general aspect of men.
On the nineteenth of December our group of characters
was honored by the appearance of a fine honest fellow from
the steerage. He had suffered so much from sea-sickness,,
that he appeared a mere sack of bones. He was a native
of one of the Southern States ; but the Yankee spirit must
have been born in him : for he had been to the Californias
with a chest of carpenter's tools, in search of wealth ! Un
fortunate man ! He had built the Commandante-General a
house, and never was paid for it ; he had built other houses
with like consequences to his purse ; had made many
thousands of red cedar shingles for large prices and no
pay ; and last and worst of all, had made love, for two
years, to a Spanish brunette, obtained her plighted faith
for marriage, and did not marry her. It was no fault of his.
J)uring the last years of his wooing, a Cahfornian Cava-
liero, that is, a pair of mustachios on horseback, had been
in the habit of eating a social dish of fried beans occasionally
with the father of the girl, and by way of reciprocating his
hospitality, he advanced the old gentlemen to the dignity of
a grandsire. This want of fidelity in his betrothed wrought sad havoc
in ourcountryman's affections. He had looked with confiding
tenderness on her person, returned her smile, and given her
one by one his soul's best emotions. Such affections, when
they go forth and are lost, leave a void to which they never re
turn. He was alone again without trust, withnothing on earth
or rather, on the sea, to love but his carpenter's tools. The
object of his regard had disgraced herself and him. To avoid
the scene of his misery, he had invested, in horses the little
money he had accumulated ; accompanied the Hudson's Bay
Trading Company to Oregon, and having cultivated land a
a year or two in the valley of the Willamette, had sold his

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 25
stock and property, and shipped for home, with every tooth
strung with curses against the Californian Spaniards.
California itself, not including the bodies or souls of the
people, he thought to be a desirable country. The very at
mosphere was so delicious that the people went half-naked
to enjoy it. Hard to abandon was that air, and the great
plains and mountains covered with horses, black Spanish
cattle, and wild game. The fried beans, too, the mussels of
the shores, and the fleas even, were all objects of pleasure,
utility t»r industry, of which he entertained a vivid recollec
tion. But that loved one ! she was beautiful, she was kind,
alas ! too kind. He loved her, she was wayward ; but was
still the unworthy keeper of his heart ; still a golden re
membrance on the wastes of the past — lovely, but corroded
and defiled. His opinion was that she was a woman !
The weather became sensibly milder each day as we moved
on our course ; the water warmer, the fish and fowl more
abundant. The latter presented themselves in considerable
variety. The white and grey albatross, with their long nar
row wings, and hoarse unmusical cry, cut through the air like
uneasy spirits, searching the surrounding void for a place of
rest, and finding none ! Our cook contracted a paternal re
gard for these birds ; the basis of which was, that whenever
he threw overboard the refuse of the table, they alighted in
the wake of'the ship, and ate the potatoe peelings, bits of
meat, &c, with a keen appetite. " Ah," said he of the
spit, u it is a pleasure to cook for gentlemen in feathers even,
when they eat as if they loved it." But he was still more
partial to Mother Carey's chickens. In a fair morning
these beautiful birds sat on the quiet sea in flocks of thou
sands, billing and frollicking in great apparent happiness.
" There's your poultry, gentlemen," cried his curly pate,
peering from the galley. " Handsome flocks these about
the stacks of water; plumper and fatter, I'll warrant ye,
than any that ever squawked from the back of a Yorkshire
Donkey. No need of cramming there to keep life agoin'.

26 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.

They finds themselves and never dies with pip or dys-
pepsy." " Hout wi' yer blaguard pratin', ye black son of the
De'il ; and mind ye's no burn the broo' agen. Ye're
speerin' at yer ugly nose, an' ne'er ken the eend o' ye
whilk is upward. Ye sonsie villain ; when I'se need o'
yer clatter I'se fetch ye wi' a rope's-end. And now gang
in and see yer dinner. is fit for Christian mooths."
This salutation from our Scotch mate, drove in the head
of our poultry man, and we heard no more dissertations on
sea-fowlduring the voyage. At dinner the mate congratu
lated the company on the excellence of the pea-soup, re
marking that it " smacked muir o' the plaid than usual,"
because he " had gi'en the cook a crack o' the claymoron
his bagpipe ; a keekin, as he war, at things wi'out when
he should ha' been o' stirrinhis meal." Trifling incidents
like' this occasionally broke the monotony of our weary life.
Our latitude and longitude were taken daily at twelve M.,
and the report of these and the distance from the islands al
ways gave rise to some prophetic annnouncements of the
day and hour when we should anchor in the dominions of
Kamehameha . The evenings also furnished a few diversions
and pleasant objects of contemplation. Bathing was one of
the former. After the shadows of night had set in, we used
to present ourselves at the mainstays, and receive as much
of the Ocean as our love of the sublime by the gallon, or
our notions of cleanliness demanded. And when the hoot
ing, leaping, and laughing of the ceremony were silenced,
the cool comfort of the body left the mind in listless quiet
ude, or to its wanderings among the glories of a tropical sky.
It was the 24th of December ; the mid-winter hour. But
the space over us was as mild and soft a blue as ever covered
a September night in the States. The stars sent down a deli
cate sprinkling light on the waters. The air itself presented
some peculiar aspects. It was more nearly transparent than
any I had ever breathed ; and there seemed to be woven into

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 27
all its thousand eddies a tissue of golden and trembling mist,
streaming down from the depths of Heaven ! There was a
single sad spot on the scene. The north star, so high and
brilliant in the latitude where I had spent my previous years,
was gradually sinking into the haze about the horizon. I had
in very early life looked with greater interest upon that than
any other star. The little house which my deceased father
had built on the shore of a beautiful lake among the green
woods of Vermont, stood "north and south" upon the autho
rity of that star. And after he had died at that humble out
post of the settlements, leaving me a boy of nine years, his
death-bed, the little house, and the star which had guided my
parent's hand in laying the foundation on the brow of the
deep wilderness, came to be objects of the tenderest recol
lection. I was sorry to see it obscured ; for it always burned
brightlyin ourwoodland home; and was the only thing which,
as years rolled on, remained associated with paternal love.
I remember, too, another class of emotions that gave oc
cupation to my heart in those beautiful nights. We thought
and talked of Cook. He had ploughed those seas long be
fore us ; had discovered the group of islands to which our
voyage tended ; had met a fearful death at the hands of the
inhabitants ; and some of his bones yet lay, scraped and
prepared for the gods, in the deep caverns of Hawaii ! The
waters rippling at our ship's side,* had borne him; had
rushed in tempests, and lain in great beauty around him ;
had greeted the discovery flag of the brave old Fatherland,
and heard its cannon boom ! We were sailing under the
same flag. It was not, indeed, the same identical bunting
which floated in 1789 ; but it was the emblem of the same
social organization, of the same broad intelligence ; the in
signia of the same Power, whose military embattlements,
grain fields and homes, gird the Earth ! I was glad to ap
proach the Hawaiian Islands on the track of Cook, under
the old British flag.
Is there a human sense which derives its nutriment from

28 SCENES IK THE PACIFIC.
the things which are gone 1 Is there a holy-flower which
springs up among the withered tendrils of buried beauty?
a strong and vigorous joy, which, like the Aloe, blooms a
moment on the cold midnight of heavy sorrow 1 Is there an
elevation of the whole being into a higher condition, when
we wander among the trees, the ruins and the graves of
former times 1 It may be so. For surely he who treads
1 the dust of Rome and stands on the ruins of Thebes, has a
species of previous existence wrapped about him. He sees
in the one case armies thronging the Appian-way, hears the
multitude surging in the forum under the enthusiasm kin
dled by Cicero, and feels that the eagle of freedom is throw
ing the pinions of his protection over the energies of man.
In the other case he hears the voice of the mighty chief
tain summoning his millions of subservient hands. The'
hammer and the chisel, from the beginning to the end of
day, send up their vast din to the passing hours. The moun
tain columns of Thebes stand up in the presence of the pyra
mids ! And a subject land bows in servitude to a great and
controlling intellect. We are there, and form an integral
wave in the sea of vitality that flowed forty ages ago ! We
venerate the broken tomb of the past. We knock gently
at its gate, and find our bodies and minds grow vigorous
and happy in those sublime imaginings, which carry our
entire selves back to see and converse with those men, the
mere ruins of whose deeds still astonish mankind !
We retired to rest this evening in unusually fine spirits ;
for, with the aid of the good breeze piping down from the
northwest, we expected sight of land by the next sunset.
Our sleep, however, was not remarkably deep, for I recol
lect that the wind freshened during the night, as it generally
does in the edge of the trades, and compelled the morning-
watch to take in sail. The noise occasioned by this move
ment was construed, by the wakeful ear of our desires, into
a shortening canvas to prevent running on land; and we
turned out to see it. But it was yet beyond view. The

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 29
night, however, was worth beholding. It was one o'clock ;
the sky overhead was clear and starry ; around the north
western horizon hung a cluster of swollen clouds, like
Moorish towers, faintly tipped with the dim light. In the
southwest lay another mass, piled in silent grandeur, dark
battlement-like, as if it were the citadel of the seas ! The
waters were in an easy mood. The ship moved through
them evenly, save that she cut the long smooth swells more
deeply than the space between them, and occasionally
started from his slumber a porpoise or a whale.
We turned-in again and slept till the breakfast dishes clat
tered on the table, and Tom informed us that Mr. Newell
supposed he had seen at sunrise the looming of the land in
the southeast ! That announcement brought us to our feet ;
sleep gave place to the most active efforts at hauling on and
buttoning up the various articles of our wardrobe. " On
deck ! on deck ! where away the land?" and we tasked
our eyes with their utmost effort to scan the nature of the
dark embankment on which the mate had founded his au
guries. The excitement at length drew all the passengers
and officers to the starboard-quarter ; each man looked and
expressed himself in his own way. To guess, was the
Yankee's part ; to look and doubt, was John Bull's plea
sure ; to wuss it might be true, was the Scotch contribu
tion ; and to reckon awhile and commend himself to be
dumbfoun '; vd if anything could be known about it, was
the Carolinian carpenter's clincher. The matter left
standing thus, we obeyed Tom's summons to breakfast.
While engaged in filling our countenances with the reali
ties of life, we were startled with a bird's note from the deck !
It proved to come from one of those winged songsters of the
islands, which often greet the toiling ship far at sea, and with
their sweet voices recall to the soul, weary with the rough
monotony of an unnatural life, the remembrance and antici
pation of the land ; the green and beautiful land ; where the
glorious light brightens the flowers ; where the flowers shed
5

30 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
their perfume on the air, and the fruits of trees, and shrubs,
and plants, are poured into the lap of the ripened }Tear.
Who does not love the birds'? who is not made better
and happier by hearing them sing among the buds and
leaves, when the streams begins to babble, and the mosses
to peer above the retiring snows 1 when the violet opens,
and meadows and forests change the brown garb of winter
for the green mantle of the young year 1 No one who
loves nature and can sympathize with it!.
But this one— perched in the rigging of the ship in which
we had been imprisoned for weeks — a messenger from the
glens and hills sweetly chanting our welcome to them, was
an object of the tenderest interest. It had the cordial greet
ing of our hearts ; and while talking about it, we could not
forbear reaching our hands towards it, and grieving that we
had no intelligible language wherewith to convey our salu
tations, and. ask the tidings from its beautiful home. The
captain consulted his reckoning, and found that we lay
about one hundred miles northwest-by-north from the island
of Hawaii.
The breeze, instead of decreasing with the ascent of the
sun, as it had done for a number of days past, held on ; and
with all the weather studding-sails out, we made about ten
knots during most of the morning. About ten o'clock, Mr.
Newell, who had been watching that embankment of cloud
in the southwest, which had excited our hopes at sunrise,
touched his hat to Captain Duncan and remarked, " That
cloud retains its bearing and shape very much like the loom
ing of land, sir. We must be in sight of some of the islands :
we made ten knots by the log, sir, during my watch."
The Captain had expressed his belief that he could sail his
ship under that cloud without lead line, orcopperbottom ; and
it was still his opinion that an English commander like him
self, an old salt of thirty years' standing, would be as likely
toknowthe complexionof theland as anygentleman with less
experienced optics. However, he sent Tom for his glass and

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 31
peered into it with the keenest search. It was delightful,
meantime, to ui land-lubbers, to watch the workings of his
face. There was a gleam of triumph creeping over it as he
first brought his glass to bear upon the object. But as the
highest part of the pile came into the field of vision, his
cheeks dropped an instant, then curled into the well-known
lineaments of chagrin, and then into those of rage, as if he
would rather all the land were sunk, than he be found mis
taken in a matter so purely professional.
" Damn. the land !" he at length exclaimed ; " I suppose
it must be Mauna-Kea," and gave the glass to a passenger.
The breeze piped up and we moved on merrily. Merrily
flew the gladdening waters from the prow ; steadily as the
masts stood out the canvass on the clear blue sky ; and
brightly beamed the warm and mellow day on the sea. Tha
Scotch mate, who swore by any dozen of things that his
memory happened to seize, affirmed by his blood and the
whisky that had been buried seven comfortable years at his
auld aunt's homestead, thathe would see the lassies of Hono-
lula before he was a day older ; the professor of psalmody
sung, "Here's a health to thee, Tom Moore ;" the Hawaiian
Island servants of the Hudson's Bay Company began to count
their money preparatory to the purchase of poi ; the crew-
began to tell yarns about " sprees" they had enjoyed in
Chili, New Holland, Liverpool, Vera Cruz, St. Petersburgh
and Montevideo ; the six foot bootswain began to whistle ;
Tom began to grin ; a former cabin-boy began to think of
his mother, whom he expected to meet in the islands ; the
visitor bird chirped in the rigging ; and all for joy ! For
now the lofty peaks of Hawaii loomed above the clouds,
the sea-weed gathered on the prow, and the odor of the
land puffed over us.
At five o'clock the breeze slackened again, and until
nightfall the ship barely moved enough to obey her helm.
Near ten in the evening it freshened, but as we were in the
neighborhood of a lee-shore, the captain thought it prudent

32 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
to keep good sea-room, and accordingly shortened sail and
lay off a part of the night.
This was Christmas eve, that nucleus of so much social
and religious joy throughout the Christian world, and a
merry one it was to us. Not so in the ordinary sense of
the trencher and cup, the music, dance, and the embrace of
kindred ; nor rendered such by the pealing anthem or the
solemn prayer, swelling up through the lofty arches hung
with boughs of ever-green and the prophetic star of Beth
lehem ! But nature herself seemed worshipping ! The
heavens were unmarred by a single breath of mist, except
what rested upon the heights of Hawaii ; and on all its vault
the stars shone, not as brightly as in the frosty skies of the
temperate zones, but with a quiet subdued lustre, as if they
were the watch-fires of angels assembled to celebrate the
earth's great jubilee.
The Pacific, too, lent the scene its most charming condi
tion. Wide and gently curved swells rolled down from the
north, smooth, and noiseless, except when they dashed upon
our noble ship, or were broken by the dolphin coursing
through and dotting them with phosphorescent light ! The
sea-birds were hailing each other a merry Christmas. The
grey and mottled albatross, flying from billow to billow,
occasionally clipped the waves with his sword-shaped wings,
and shouted gladly to the elements ! The gulls and other
birds sat in countless flocks in every direction, sinking,
rising and chattering on the panting sea 1 And schools of
tiny fish with bright golden backs swam by the side of the
ship, as children, after long absence, gather with cherish
ed remembrances around the old homestead on this blessed
night. At dawn on the 25th one of the islands lay six mile dis
tant in the southeast. The sky was clear ; the sea smooth ;
the porpoises blowing about us ; a right whale was spouting
a hundred rods astern ; and our Hawaiians, looking from the
mainstays at the land, were uttering their beautiful language

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 33
of vowels with great volubility. Poi (the name of their
national dish), wyhini (woman), and iri (chief), were the
only w-ords I then understood ; and these occurred very
often in their animated dialogues. Poor fellows ! they had
been five years absent from their poi ; five years separated
from the brown beauties of their native isles ; five years
away from their venerated sovereign. No wonder, there
fore, they were charmed with the dim outline of their native
land ! A mass of vapor hung along its heights and con
cealed them from view> save here and there a volcanic spire
which stood out on the sky, overlooking cloud, mountain,
and sea. As the light increased to full day, this cloudy mass
was fringed on the edge nearest us with delicate golden
hues ; but underneath it and inward toward the cliffs, the
undisturbed darkness reached far eastward, a line of night
belting the mountains mid-heaven. Downward from this
line to the sea, sloped red mountains of old lava, on which
no vegetable life appeared. On a few little plains near the
beach the cocoa-tree sent up its bare shaft ; and as the
clouds broke away we discerned clumps of rich foliage on
the heights. But generally the aspect was that of a dreary
broken desert.
We sailed past the western cape of Moratai, and laid our
course for the southeastern part of Oahu. At two o'clock
our good old ship lay becalmed under the lofty piles of ex
tinct craters, six miles northeast of Honolulu. At four the
breeze freshened, and bore us down abreast of the town.
Soon after a boat came rapidly from the shore with a pilot
on board by the name of Reynolds ; a generous, jolly old
American gentleman, of long residence in the islands. He
greeted his countrymen with great kindness, and having
brought the ship to anchor outside the reef, invited us to
go ashore in his boat. It was manned with islanders. They
rowed to the entrance of the channel, rested on their
oars while the angry swells lifted us at one instant on the
summit of the waters and at another dropped us into the

34 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
chasm between them, till the third and largest came, when,
by a quick and energetic movement, they threw the boat
upon the land side of it, and shot us into the harbor with
the rapidity of the wind ! We passed the American whalers
which crowded the anchorage ; ran under the guns of the
fort ; struck the landing at the pier ; leaped ashore among
crowds of natives, besprinkled with an occasional Eu
ropean face : followed an overgrown son of John Bull to
another man's house, took a glass of wine, and scattered
ourselves in various quarters for the night.
Thus terminated our voyage from the Columbia river to
the Kingdom of Hawaii. The distance between Oregon
and these islands is about three thousand miles. We had
sailed it in twenty-one days.
The next morning the Vancouver entered the harbor with
the land-breeze, and anchored near the pier. The " steer
age" and the Hawaiians now came on shore. The former
settled his hat over his eyes and sought a barber's shop ;
the latter repaired to the town with their friends. I fol
lowed them. Whenever they met an old acquaintance
they immediately embraced him, and pressed noses together
at the sides. After many salutations of this kind they ar
rived at the market-place ; made a purchase of poi ( a fer
mented paste of boiled taro) , and seated themselves with
their friends around it. The poi was contained in large
calabashes or gourdshells. With these in the midst they
began to eat and recall the incidents of pleasure which
had sweetened their early years.
Their mode of conveying the poi to their mouths was
quite primitive. The fore and middle fingers served in
stead of a spoon. These they inserted to the depth of the
knuckles, and having raised as much as would lie upon
them, and by a very dexterous whirl brought it into a globu
lar shape upon the tips, they thrust it into their mouths,
and licked their fingers clean for another essay. They had
been seated but a short time when others joined them, who

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 35
brought sad news. One of their former friends had recently
died ! On hearing this their hands dropped, and the dread
ful wail ewai burst from every mouth, as they rose and went
towards the hut in which the dead body lay. It was situ
ated a short distance from the hotel ; and during the night
I heard that wail ring through the silent town ! A more
painful expression of sorrow I hope never to hear. The
next morning I went to the burial. The wail was sus
pended during the ceremonies ; but for several succeeding
nights it continued to break my slumbers. A few days after
ward I saw them gathered again near the market-place em
ployed with their poi. The wages of five years' service was
nearly exhausted. They had given a large portion to the
chief of their district, and spent the rest in feasting and cloth
ing their poor relatives. They were poor when I lost sight
of them. But those whom they had fed were sharing their
pittance with them. The most affectionate and hospitable
people on earth are these Hawaiians.
Our Carolinian remained a few days at Honolulu, and
took passage in one of P. J. Farnham & Co.'s ships for New
York. He insisted to the very last of my intercourse with
him, that his Californian brunette was a woman !
Mr. Simpson took lodgings with that distinguished slice
of a, John Bull to which I have already referred. He em
ployed himself with much industry upon his duties of set
tling accounts with his host, who, as the1 agent of the Com
pany, had sold the lumber, fish, &c, exported from Oregon
to these islands. After tarrying a month at Honolulu, he
returned in the Vancouver to Columbia River. He was a
fine fellow, full of anecdote and social feeling, talented and
modest ; and I doubt not will eventually rise to the highest
rank in the Company's service.
The professor of psalmody stopped at the hotel and pre
pared to .exhibit himself. His first essay was to deliver to
the American Missionaries and others, certain letters which
he had obtained in Oregon. His next was to awaken the

36 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
genius of music. For this purpose he attended a number
of singing parties, at which he attempted to make himself
useful to three young Americans, who sang with masterly
taste. In the opinion of the professbr they " needed a little
burnishing," which he volunteered to give them. Unfortu
nately for the art, however, they were vain enough to sup
pose they had learned music before his arrival; and did not
therefore value his suggestions so highly as he himself did.
But the professor persevered. His forbearance knew no
limit towards the deluded tyros. On all public occasions
he never failed to throw out many invaluable hints as to
movement, ascent, and style generally. He even encou
raged them to hope that, with all their imperfections, they
might attain a respectable degree of excellence if they
would attend to his instructions. Whether or not his exer
tions were ever properly appreciated by these gentlemen is a
question whch remains unsettled to this day. But the most
interesting event which occurred to the professor in Hono
lulu was his interview with the sister of the young lady
whom he had forsaken. She was the wife of a Missionary,
a zealous servant of her Master. He called on her and
was invited to remain to tea. I was present. Everything
was sad as the grave ! The mercies of Heaven were im
plored upon his blighted conscience ! He left, little hap
pier for the reminiscences awakened by the visit, and soon
after sailed for California. I heard of him as an ingenious
man in mending a^atchon shipboard, but never as one of
moral integrity or as the Napoleon of the Californias !

CHAPTER III.
Hawaiian Islands — Spaniards first visited them — Hoopili Wyhini — Ac
count of Coojr's visit — A god — A Robber and his Death — "Vancouver's
Visit — Kamehameha I. — A Treaty — Cattle — Origin of the Islands —
Poetry, and another Book — Legends — Tabu — Philosophy of Civilization
— A Way to me End — What is Taught — Gratitude — Departure from
the Islands — Lava and Cauldrons — Goats and Men — Passengers — Cap
tain, Mates and Crew — A Human Managerie — Northing — Variables —
Ten days Out — Too nauseous for Music — Uncombed Hair — Exhila
rated — Lovely — Growing Fat — Ten Knots — Ten more days out— An
Ocean Don- American and English Tars — A Squall — A new mode ol
taking Eels — Land ho — Mission— Wrath — Monterey.
This group of islands was first visited by a Spanish ship,
during the early explorations of the northwest coast of
America, by Admiral Otondo, Viscaiyno, and others. The
traditions of the natives say, that a small vessel was driven
ashore on the southern coast of Hawaii, that two of the
crew only escaped death among the breakers, and that these
intermarried with the .natives and left children. I saw
some descendants of these men. Their European features
and the use of a few corrupted Spanish words, satisfied me
of the truth of the legend and the ship^s nationality.
Captain Cook next visited them in 1779. The circum
stances of his visit and massacre, as given me by a very
aged chieftainess, Hoopili Wyhini, will interestthe reader.
" Captain Cook's men were allowed to steal a canoe be
longing to our people. Our chiefs asked that it might be
returned ; but Captain Cook had made us believe that he
was a god, and thought to take what he pleased. Our tra
ditions asserted that gods would not rob, and we told him

38 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
so. But the canoe was not restored. Our people thought,
therefore, that if Cook would steal from them, it would be
right to steal from him ; so in the night time, they swam under
water a long distance to the ships, loosened the boat from
one of them, and having brought it ashore, broke it in pieces
for the nails. Cook was very much enraged at the loss of
his boat, and threatened us with destruction if it were not
returned. But it could not be ; it was destroyed.
" A number of days passed in very angry intercourse be
tween our people and the foreigners, during which a chief
suggested that so unjust a being could not be a god. But
all others said he was1 the great Kono. This was in our
days of darkness. Why do you press me to remember such
unpleasant things 1"
I explained that I was anxious to know the truth of the
matter, and she continued :
" At length Cook came on shore with an armed force,
and went to the king's house to persuade him to go on
board his ship. The chiefs interfered and prevented him.
Cook was angry, and the people were in a great rage. He
went down to the shore where his boat lay. The people
gathered around him. The chief who did not believe him
a god, tried to kill Cook, but Cook killed him ; and then
the people who belonged to that chief, killed Cook. It
thus became clear that Cook was no god ; for we thought
our old gods could not die. These were our years of sin,
before the Pono (Gospel) came among us ; and it is not
pleasant to speak of them."
This venerable chieftainess was advanced in womanhood
at the time of Vancouver's visit, in 1779. She gave the
following account of it :
" When Vancouver arrived at Hawaii, Kamehameha was
the chief of three districts on that island. These were Kona, i
Kohala, and Hamakua. That year he fought against the
reigning king, and conquered the whole island. Kameha
meha did not see Vancouver at Kona, where he first an-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 39
chored. But a little after the time of our national holidays,
which occurred in the latter part of the Christians' Decem
ber, he came to Kealukekua Bay. There I first saw him.
Kamehameha also visited him at that place. The flag
ship, brig and store-ship, appeared to be under the general
command of a man whom we called Pukeki ; the captain
of the store-ship we called Hapilinu.
" While this squadron remained in the bay, myself and
thirteen others went aboard. They were Kamehameha,
his three brothers and one sister, myself, my aunt, and two
other' women. The remainder were chief men. After
being at sea four days, we anchored in Kealukekua Bay in
which Cook was killed.
" Kamehameha was very friendly to Vancouver — according
to our old rules of hospitality, he furnished him with a concu
bine. He gave me to him. I passed nine days on board his
ship. Kamehameha presented to him a great many hogs and
bananas, and received trifling presents of old iron in return.
At the end of nine days I left the ship, in company with some
other chiefs, to visit my sick brother, and did not return.
" On another occasion, Kamehameha, his chiefs, and two
Englishmen who had been adopted by some old chiefs and
made a part of the king's counsel, named John Young and
Isaac Davis, were passing the day on board the flag-ship,
when Kamehameha addressed to Vancouver these words :
' E nana mai ea u, eia ka aina,' which being interpreted,
means, 'Look after us, and if we are injured, protect us.'
To this Vancouver assented. An instrument in writing,
which he said would bind his sovereign to keep the pro
mise he had made, was framed and presented to the king.
I do not know whether Kamehameha understood what was
written ; nor do I know whether or not the king signed it.
But until the French captain, La Place, came, and abused
us, we thought the English would protect us ; because Van
couver promised to do so. Kamehameha always said the
English were our friends — that the islands were his, and

40 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
that these friends would keep off all danger from abroad.
It is not clear to me that they have been faithful to the
words of Vancouver.
« Vancouver built a tent and high tower on shore. In
the former he sometimes slept. In the latter his learned
men pointed bright instruments at the moon and stars. A
doctor, whom we called Makaua, visited the volcano. He
had sore lips when he returned. He brought down some
sulphur, saltpetre, and lava.
'< Vancouver gave me two fathoms of red broadcloth. Jo
the king and chiefs he also gave some of the same. He said
the king of England sent it to us. I had two husbands at this
time. The one was Kalanimamahu, the son of Keona, and
the other Hoopili, the late governor of Maui. The first was
the father Of Queen Auhea j the latter is buried among the
people near the church. Those were days of darkness.
" Vancouver gave to Kamehameha four cattle, three cows
and one bull. He said to Kamehameha, ' feed them five years,
and then begin to kill and eat.' They were shut up in a field
several years, but broke out one after another, and went to
the mountains. Very few were killed for thirty years.
During the last ten, many have been slaughtered for their
hides and tallow. Vancouver killed one of the calves be
fore he left us. They were brought from California.
"Vancouver had an interpreter whom our people called
Lehua ; and another who was a native chief in the island
of Taui. This latter had made a voyage in an English
whale-ship, during which he had learned the language of
that nation. By means of these men, he asked questions,
and received answers in regard to our old ways. Once he
asked 'whence came these islands?' and our chiefs re
plied—' Hawaii is the child of the gods Papa and Wakea,
and the other islands are the children of Hawaii.'
" The chief priests then said Hawaii was in a very soft state
immediately after birth, but a god descended from the skies
and called—' E Hawaii Ea, 0 Hawaii Oh,' and the god

— -

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 41
Hawaii came forth, communicated to the pulpy land a gyra
tory motion, made it come around him, and assume a per
manent form. Vancouver replied, ' right.'
" I am sixty-five years old and must die soon."
I was exceedingly interested in these conversations with
this remarkable woman. She had been one of the wives of
Kamehameha the First ; had commanded his navy of war-
canoes, during his conquests, and was at the time of my in
terview with her the acting executive of Maui, and a
scholar in the Missionary Sabbath school !
I remained three months in these beautiful islands, en
joying the revelations of these chronicler of old and curious
times. • The king, chiefs, foreign residents and Missionaries,
perceiving my avidity in gathering information respecting
the country and its people, rendered me every aid in their
power to facilitate my inquiries. Nor do I ever expect
again to find a richer field of the strange, the beautiful, the
wonderful and the sublime, than was there presented to me.
The legends of a thousand generations of men, living
apart from the rest of mankind, among the girding depths
of the Pacific seas ; the stories of their gods and goddesses ;
the tales of their wars ; the fate of bad princes whom their
deities reprimanded from the skies ; the beatification of the
good on whom their divinities scattered blessings; their
forms of government ; their religious ceremonies ; their
genealogies ; their poetry, more of it than Greece ever had,
and still sung by bards travelling from village to village ;
their dances'; their rejoicings at a birth ; their wailings
over the dead, and, the solemn ceremonies of their burials ;
are a few of the interesting subjects investigated.
The intense interest, as well as the amount of writirigre-
quired to exhibit these matters, will furnish my best apology
for passing them in this place. They may hereafter appear
in a separate volume. But I cannot allow my readers to
pass from the Hawaiiankingdorn, without presenting to their
notice the interesting fact, that a hundred and seven thou-

42

SCENES IN THE PACIFIC

sand savages have been brought within the pale of civiliza
tion and Christianity through the instrumentality of the
Americans. . , , , j c
Twenty-five years ago a nation occupied the kingdom of
Hawaii which sought its happiness from a systematic viola.
tion of the fundamental laws of Creation. Their food was
under the tabu, or ban; so that the powerful in civil and
religious affairs appointed the best edibles for their own use,
and made death the penalty to their wives, daughters and
inferiors, if they tasted them. The fire kindled to cook the
food of the men was tabued; it was death for woman to
kindle hers from it, or cook or light a pipe at it. The per
son of the king was tabued. It was death to touch him, or
any article which he had used, or to step on his shadow, or
the shadow of his house. And at the hour of midnight hu
man victims were slaughtered, and piled on scaffolds with
dogs and hogs, around the temples which they would con
secrate to their deities ! !
Here human nature had been forced from its true appe
tencies to the material and spiritual Universe. Its misery
followed as an inevitable consequent. But the Hawaiians
were thinkers. The violated ordinances of the world recoil
ing on them at every tread bf life, forced on them the thought
of obedience and its blessings. And they rose in their power ;
ate from the full hand of Heaven ; prostrated their ancient
temples ; burned their hideous gods ; made the civil power
subservient to the common good ; and' restored themselves,
after immemorial ages of degradation, to the quiet reign of
the natural laws. It is most remarkable that the American
missionaries were on their voyage to the islands while these
things were being done !
The law of relationship between these people and their
Maker had been lost among the crude follies of idol-worship
and civil tyranny. These they had broken down by a mighty
blow. The fragments of their temples, altars and gods, were
strewn over the land. An entire nation looked on the flowers,
the stars, the rivulet, the ocean, the birds and themselves,

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 43
and believed in no God ! ! The vessel which brought to
them the Christian faith anchored at Honolulu ! The event,
whiqh shook the hill, darkened the sun and opened the
graves of Judea, was proclaimed, and gave its hopes of
Heaven to a hundred thousand people ! A nation thus en
tered the world as its loved homestead became obedient to
its organization ; called back the wandering religious sym
pathies to the worship of the true God ; opened to every
faculty the sphere of its legitimate enjoyments ; and made
human rlature again a component part of creation, existing
in haimony with it and its Author.
Man must incorporate himself into that great chain of
relationship and sympathy which runs from inorganized
matter to the first feeble manifestation of vegetable life, and
thence upward through bud, leaf and blossom, and upward
still along the great range of animal existence to the think
ing and feeling principle, and thence to God. It is in this
manner alone, that he can feed his faculties with their own
aliment. And it is his ignorance of the dependence, of each
portion of his body and mind, on each and every external
existence, which makes thorns for his feet and keeps up a
perpetual warfare between himself and the immutable con
ditions of his true happiness.
I am sincerely persuaded that the regulating principle of
human culture, is to sympathize with every form of creation
within our knowledge ; to enter the world as our home ; to
seat ourselves at its hearth ; to eat its viands and drink its
blessings ; to slumber in its arms ; to hear the floods of har
monious sounds which come up to us from the matter and life
about us ; and to yield our being to the great dependent chain
of relationship which binds God's material empire, His
lealms of mind and Himself, in one sympathizing whole !
The universal requirement is, that man's nature shall be
brought into harmony with creation and its Author. This is
the whole la w of our being. Obedience to it is the unalterable
condition of happiness'; the only true test of civilization ; the

44 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
only state in which our powers, physical and mental, will
operate harmoniously; rthe only position of our existence
which looks forward on the path of our destiny, with any cer
tainty that thought, feeling, and act, will lead to results
pleasureable to ourselves and in harmony with the rest of
the world.
It is a want of proper reflection on this matter which has
rendered abortive so many efforts to civilize different por
tions of the race. In India, in the forests of the west, in every
other place, except the Hawaiian Islands, where the societies
of Protestantism have made efforts to ameliorate the condi
tion of the barbarian, nearly the whole acting force has been
brought to bear on the cultivation of the religious sentiments.
The theory has been, make them Christians, and everything
else will follow as a promised favor of Heaven.
No error has cost the church more money and life than
this. The savagehas been taught the doctrines of salvation,
and his direct relations to the Deity. Thus far, well. But
there was no corresponding teaching to the rest of his na
ture. His physical wants and the mode of supplying them,
remained unchanged. All his relations to the external world
continued the same. And the largest number of the strong
est desires of the mind being thus left, to contend with those
which the missionaries attempted to excite and purify, it is
no wonder that so little has been accomplished.
In the Hawaiian Islands the missionaries found a people
living in villages, having a property in the soil, and depend
ing chiefly upon its culture for their subsistence. They
also found them destitute of every kind of religion, and de
sirous of receiving one : they were a talented people and
anxious for new ideas. This was a remarkable state of
things. Their physical adaptation to the natural world was
so far in advance of the mental, that the latter only required
to be placed on an equal footing with the former, to produce
the civilization and moral rectitude which they now possess.
The result of missionary efforts in these islands, if well

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 45
understood, may lead to some valuable changes in the mode
of operating elsewhere. It will be learned that while the
physical wants and the mode of supplying them, are op
posed to the ordained condition, it is vain to expect the
Christianized state.
We may, meanwhile, rejoice at this single result. It is one
of the great events of the age. Twenty thousand Hawaiians
are members of Christian churches. Seventy thousand read
and write. The whole people are better taught, more in
telligent, and farther advanced in civilization than are the
citizens of the Mexican Republic. Their Government is
more paternal, and administered more kindly than any other
known to civilized man. But I must hasten homeward.
The hospitality of countrymen during my tarry in these
islands, the kindness of countrymen, bestowed on me, a
stranger, fleeing from my grave, and sad — a way from those
on whose hearts I had a right to lean — how can I ever for
get them ! While those beautiful islands have a place in
my memory, they will be associated with some of the most
grateful recollections of my life. It is painful to think that
I may never again grasp the hands of some noble spirits,
whom I saw and loved in the kingdom of Hawaii !
To-the sea ! on board the bark Don Quixbte, Paty, master,
bound for Upper California! We left the harbor of Honolulu,
under a sweet land breeze from the forests crowning the vol
canic hills in the rear of the city, and bore away to the west
ward along the coast. The mountains of decomposing lava
rose from the water side in sharp curving ridges, which, ele
vating themselves as they swept inland, lay in the interior
piled above the clouds. Some of them were covered with the
dense green foliage of the tropics ; and others were as desti
tute of vegetation as when they were poured, a liquid burning
mass, from the cauldron of the volcanoes. Many valleys dot
ted with the hay-thatched huts of the natives, their fields of
taro, and orchards of bread-fruit, cocoa and plantain, lay
along the shore. The lower hills "were covered with frolick-
8

46 SCENESINTHEPACIFIC
ing goats, and here and there on the projecting cliffs, stood a
group of stalwart figures, brown as the rocks, shouting their
pleasure at seeing our ship, with all sails steadily drawing,
push through the waves. Having rounded the southwestern
cape, we laid our course through the channel between Oahu
and Taui, with the intention of availing ourselves of the
northern "variables," to carry us to the American coast.
In the cabin we had seven passengers ; Mr. Chamberlain,
the fiscal agent of the American Missions at the islands— a
man of a fine mind and unpretending goodness, who had un
dertaken the voyage for the benefit of his health— Mr. Cobb,
the mate of a whaler, a plain honest man, going home to die
of an injury from the falling of a spar on shipboard ; a spend
thrift of Philadelphia, returning from a two or three years'
spree in the Pacific ; and a brace of Charlestown boys, who
were on their way homeward for goods and sweethearts.
One of these was an excellent little fellow, with a soul full
of music and justice ; the other a singer of bass and an acting
agent general, in the same department. The only representa
tive of the fair sex we could boast of was a half-breed Ha
waiian lass, going to visit the " Major," her father, an old
mountaineer from New England, who was keeping a small
shop at Santa Barbara, in Upper California.
Captain Paty was a little man, with a quiet spirit, and a
generous heart ; a New England man who always kept his
eye to the windward, and gave his sails to the stoutest
breeze without fear of clew lines or stays. The mate, a
lusty English tar of the Greenwich school, was a jolly old
boy, whose face was always charged with a smile, ready to
be let off on the least occasion of conferring happiness.
Our second mate was an Italian, who had left his country
for doubtful reasons, married an American girl in the city
of New York, buried her, and was now roaming the seas
in the double capacity of second mate and ship's carpenter,
for the means of educating his only child.
Our crew was a collection of odd-fellows. The'first in

MdSEBBE

Shipwreck of the Spanish Vessel on the coast of Hawaii. — P. 47.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 47
height and importance was "Yankee Tom;" the second
a pair of English renegadoes, from the royal navy or else
where ; next came a number of old tars, who hailed from
the earth generally ; then several Hawaiians, and last of
all, the cook ; as dark a piece of flesh as ever wore wool,
and as independent a gentleman as ever wrestled with a
soup pot. Thus we were all manned fore and aft. The
extremes of cursing and prayer, of authority and subservi
ency, law, divinity, and merchandize, were there.
Indeed, we had a piece of everything in the way of
thought, feeling, taste and form, requisite to furnish a very
respectable human menagerie. And if the shade of our
friend Cuvier had leisure on his hands to look in upon us,
and observe the paws of our lions, the teeth of our tigers,
the grins of our apes, the wool of our lambs, and the men
tal and physical qualities of each species, I doubt n^' Jie
was satisfied with the diversity of their powers ariu the
completeness of the collection.
When' leaving the latitude of the islands, we had a dis
tant view of the Taui. It was studded with mountains of
moderate elevation, clothed with evergreen forests. It ap
peared beautiful enough to be the island of Indian Mytho
logy under the setting sun, where the good will find eternal
hunting, fishing, and women of unfading beauty. But our
ship stood away under a strong breeze, and we soon lost
sight of the island in the mist and shades of night.
While making our northing we experienced a great va
riety of weather. On the first two or three degrees it was
comparatively mild, and the generous breezes appeared to
push us on with a right good will. But on reaching the lati
tude beyond the Trades, the winds from the northwest over
took us. These currents of air in the winter and spring are
exceedingly rough, gusty and cold; and being often alternat
ed with the warm breezes from the torrid zone, produce con
ditions of the atmosphere, which, in more senses than one,
may be termed " variables." The balmy breath of one day

48 SCENES IN THi PACIFIC
contrasts strongly with the frozen blasts of another; the soft
bright clouds from the south, with the harsh dark shadows
from the north, and the rippling sea when the former fans
it, with the ragged waves which roll under the latter.
Ten days out ; latitude thirty-eight ; wind fresh from the
northwest ; Mr. Chamberlain quite ill, but able to be on
deck with his thermometer ; the Charlestown boys too sick
to make music ; the Philadelphia blade's hair uncombed ;
Mr. Cobb very much exhilarated with the bold movement
of the ship; the half-breed Hawaiian lass as lovely as cir
cumstances permitted ; the crew growing fat on salt beef J
the ship, making her ten knots, headed towards Cape Men
docino,, and everything else in some sort of condition ; thus
stood the affairs of our floating home.
Ten days more passed on, and little cjiange in these things
occurred, for better or worse ; save that, when we arrived
within a hundred miles of the coast, the northerly winds be
came less violent, and their temperature higher. Our old bark
was as brave a Don among the waters as one would wish to
see. He was of American origin, a fine model of an ocean
cavalier, and did battle with the floods as fearlessly as any
ship that ever doubled the Cape. Our time on board, there
fore, went off rather agreeably r for the speed of a landsman's
passage at sea is the absorbing element of its pleasures.
The officers and crew had employment enough to occupy
them, and were usually in that agreeable mood of body and
mind which produces a good appetite, hearty joking and
sound sleeping. When the winds were stiff, they busied
themselves in keeping sails, ropes, spars arid masts at their
appropriate duties; and when a warm sun and steady
breeze came, the sailors overhauled the wormy biscuits, re
paired old sails, picked oakum, put the spun-yarn wheel
in motion, while the Italian carpenter drove jack-plain,
and the English mate gave us a specimen of rope-splicing
and bending sails according to the rules at Green wieh.
I noticed on board the Den Quixote,and elsewhere durisg

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 49
my wanderings, a difference between British and American
seamen, which I believe to be quite general. It is this. The
Briton is better acquainted with the things to be done on deck
and among the rigging than the American is. He splices a
rope better ; he knows better how to make a ship look trim
and comely. But he knows comparatively nothing about the
hull of his craft. His seven years apprenticeship has been
devoted to learning the best mode of sailing a vessel and
keeping her in good condition. He learns nothing more.
The American, on the other hand, begins at the keel, and
reads up through every timber, plank and spike, to the bul
warks. And although he does all the minor labor of the
fair-day deck work with less neatness and durability, yet he
will do it so well, and throw his canvass on the winds with
such skill and daring, as to outsail, as well as outmanage
his very clever rival. The Fatherland should be proud of
Jonathan. He is a rough, hard-featured lad ; and in right
of primogeniture, as well as other indisputable relations,
he must succeed to the paternal power over the seas.
At meridian, on the 16th of April, we ascertained our
selves to be about seventy-five miles from the American
coast. All were weary of the voyage. It had been exceed
ingly monotonous ; not even a storm to break its tedium.
At two o'clock of this day, however, we had an incident in
the shape of a squall, from the northwest. It was attended
with chilling winds which fell upon us like a shower of freez
ing arrows, and drove everybody, except officers and.seamen,
below. The blowing, the raining, the clatter of quick feet
upon deck, the cry of the sailors, " heave-a-hoy !" as they
shorten sail and brace up the yards ; the heavy swells, beat
ing the ship like ponderous battering-rams ; the air, that up
per ocean, running its flood most furiously upon that which
lies beneath ; our vessel riding the one as if escaping from
the wrath of the other ; the upper surface of the airy seas,
crowded with fleets of thunder-clouds chasing each other
madly, and sending out the fire and noise of terrible conflict !

50 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
These are the features of that squall. Our good ship
reeled and trembled under the shock of the waters and
winds, as if her planks and timbers were separating.
Below at such a time was doubtless our safest berth, but
that was far from being peculiarly comfortable ! About half
of the passengers were on each side of the cabin, holding at
the berths ; arid when the ship rose on a billow and careen
ed, it straightened those on the larboad side Uke lamprey-
eels hanging to rocks ; while, as the surge passed on, the
ship careened the othey way, making eels of those on the
starboad side ! The furniture tumbled, the steward giving
chase fell in the midst of it ; the Hawaiian lass attempted to
gain her berth and fell ; and tumult, danger, sublimity, and
the ridiculous, united to provoke alternatively our laughter,
fear and admiration. It cleared up in an hour, however,
and we went on again pleasantly, under a three-knot breeze.
On the evening of the 17th, we heard right gladly the
cry of " Land ho !" Where away V " A little on the
starboard bow !" I was in the cabin at the time. Any
other word spoken with a greater volume of voice would
have passed unheard. But land ! land ! the solid land !
with its odor of earth and flower, is a word which, if utter
ed in a whisper, has deep music for one who has for twenty
odd days been stunned by contentious waves ; a sweetness
and vigor of meaning to the weary wayfarer on the seas,
which must be heard,—" Land ahead."
Its winged messengers already twittered in the rigging !
The shores loomed on the edge of the horizon ! The
white cliffs on the north side of Monterey Bay, in Upper
California, were in sight ! We kept our course towards them
till daylight-down, and then beat off and on till the dawn
of the following morning.
April 18<A. The land, the glorious old land, is near us on
our left — five miles away ! The cattle of the Mission Santa
Cruz are grazing on the hill ! The matin bells are ringing
from its tower, and the arrowy light is routing the darkness

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 51
from the Californian mountains ! A morning of the blooming
spring poured down from Heaven on this Italy of America !
A sunrise on the land ; and the conquered night where it
very properly may be, running wild over the seas !
A breeze from the west drove us slowly down the bay, so
near the shore that we had a clear view of it. At the
northeast corner of the bay is a green gorge, down which
flows a small stream of pure water. Near its mouth, on a
snug little plain, stands the mission of Santa Cruz, with its
chapel and adobie Indian huts. Around it are some fields,
on which the Indians raise grains, vegetables and grapes.
Beyond this, to the northward, the country swells away
into lofty hills, covered with grass and sprinkled with copses
of pine and oak.
From Santa Cruz down to Monterey, the land is broken
by low hills, too rough for general cultivation, upon which
grow a few trees of a soft and worthless character. But the '
greenness of the whole surface in the spring of the year, and
the absence of any abode of man, make it very appropriate
pasture-ground for the wild horses, cattle, mules, and the
grisly bears, lions and elk, that herd upon it. ,
About five o'clock we round to, under the Castle of Mon
terey. The boat is lowered, the captain and part of the pas
sengers get aboard of her, and shove off for the landing.
The ship meanwhile lies off and on within hail. When a
hundredfathoms from the shore we are hailed by the cus
tom-house barge, and ordered back to the ship ! Whereupon
a parley takes place, during which we are informed that
California is in a state of revolution, and that no foreigners
can enter the country.
I was emaciated with sea-sickness, enfeebled for want of
fresh food, and altogether so miserable at the idea of not
dining that day upon Californian beans and beef, that I made
a desperate effort to express in Spanish the honest rage of my
heart at such treatment:, Buthaving uttered French instead
of Spanish wrath, I was about correcting myself, when a

02 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
lean villainous physiognomy, supported a lank, long-armed
and long-shinned carcass, in lieutenant's epaulettes, replied
in French, "M, mon frere Frangais," and immediately
gave orders for us to land. The boat therefore ran through
the surf, grazed upon the rocks, and lay dry on the beach.

CHAPTER IV.
Mother Earth-Revolution-Americans and British in Prison-A Guard-
A Governor-An Interview-An Alcalde— A Passport-A running Sa
lute-Cries for Air and Water-Despair-A Horrid Night-Starvation
— Dungeons-A Demand-Signals— A course adopted-A Leaf of His
tory-General Echuanda and his Deeds-A Tennessean Hunter and a
Clerk-A Camp Pormed-A League-A March-An Attack-A Ban-
ishment-Independence-An old Method of Rewarding Friends-A No
tification—A Junto— Wagers and Senoritas— A Stratagem and its Con
sequences—Names of Prisoners.
On the land ! The human frame derives its vital elements
from the generous land ! The earth is our mother, and she
seems to rejoice when her children tread her threshold and
ask her for bread and happiness.
We inquired the cause of the reported tumult in the coun
try, and were answered in brief whispers ! The speakers
•looked cautiously around them for listening ears and Spanish
rapiers. It was difficult to find a man with an English tongue
and a white skin, who dared converse alone with us on any
subject. Indeed, it was impossible to do so. For whenever
the attempt was made, some Spaniard drew stealthily near to
listen ! And when the gentleman from the ship left the land
ing for the town, in company with some American and British
residents, the government officers mingled among them, and
changed the conversation as often as it turned upon what they

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 53
termed M the revolution." Men of stout hearts even spoke
little. Life appeared to hang upon a breath in Monterey !
We entered the house of an American merchant by the name
of Larkin, and sat down to tea. We did not eat alone ! An
officer of the government sat with us ! Conversation ran on
general topics. The cause of the apparent trepidation was
inquired into by an American from the Don Quixote, but
nothing could be elicited. The official sat erect, swelled
his person into dignity, ate heartily, drank deeply, rose first
from the table, an intimation that we might follow his illus
trious example ; burned his fingers in smoking a paper
cigar, and at length rolled his greasy form out of doors.
" Rid of you at last, thank God," said a little Englishman,
who had dropped in during supper,- " and now for talk inside
of ceilings." We soon learned from Mr. Larkin and others,
that one hundred and fifty odd Americans and Britons were
thirsting and starving in the prisons of the town and destined
to be sacrificed to Spanish malignity ! The question arose,
Can they be saved 1 It was hoped they might ; it was re
solved on our lives that they should be ; while all in a low
voice spoke of the uncertainty of life for an hour in Monterey!
The first duty, on setting foot in California, is to report
oneself to the governor, and obtain from him a written per
mission to, remain in the country. This I proceeded to do.
Mr. Larkin was obliging enough to accompany me to the
governor's residence. We found before it a small number
of men, who were usually complimented with the cognomen
of " guard." They consisted of five half-breed Indians, and
what passed for a white corporal, lounging about the doouia
the manner of grog-shop savans. Their outer man is worth
a description. They wore raw bull's-hide sandals on their
feet, leathern breeches, blankets about their shoulders, and
anything and everything upon their heads. Of arms, they
had nothing which deserved the name. One made preten
sions with an old musket without lock ; and his four com
rades were equally heroic, with kindred pieces, so deeply

54 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
rusted, that the absence of locks would have been an uri-
portant item in estimating their value.
, We passed this valorous body, ascended a flight of stairs,
and entered the presence of governor Juan Baptiste Alva-
rado ; awell-formed, full-blooded, Californian Spaniard, five
feet eleven inches irl height, with coal-black curly hair, deep
black eyes, fiercely black eye-brows, high cheek bones, an
aquiline nose, fine white teeth, brown complexion, and the
clearly marked mein of a pompous coward, clad in the
broad-cloth and whiskers of a gentleman.
When we entered he was sitting behind a kind of writ
ing-desk, at the farther end of the room. He rose as we
entered, and received us with the characteristic urbanity of
a Spanish body without a soul ; waved us to chairs, when
he would have seen us tumbling from the balcony ; smiled
graciously at us with one corner of his mouth, while he
cursed us with the other ; seated himself, laid up his arms
and hands on the upper shelf of his abdomen, and asked if
the ship had anchored !
El Goubernador had sundry reasons for making this inquiry
concerning the Don Quixote. The chief one, however, was,
that he and his officers, like all their predecessors, had been
in the habit of looking on the arrival of a ship in the port of
Monterey as a discharge of debts and a license for new levies
on their, credit. Let it not be supposed that I believe a Cali
fornian Spaniard is ever so far false to his nature, as to wish
his debts paid, while his credit will supply his wants. My
investigations into the character of his progenitors both In
dian and Spanish, will always preserve me from such an
error. Nor would I have it believed, that the transplanted
chivalry of the Andalusians does not absolutely boil and
'bubble, at the bare thought of not being able to plunder from
the rest of mankind a gentleman's living. Any such impeach
ment of the sagacity and scrupulousness of these men would
be a wrong against which my sense of justice would most
vehemently protest. In plain words, then, at the time the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 56
Don Quixote came into the bay, Alvarado and his officers
were deeply in debt, and distressed only to select means of
paying them, accordant with Californian honor. The arrival
of a ship in port furnished just these means. The manner
in which it did so may be unworthy of specification.
El Alta California is a department of the Mexican Repub
lic ; and by lawthe moneys collected for port-dues and duties
belong to the revenue of the central government. But as the
right to life, property, and the pursuit of happiness is, among
the Californian Spaniards, construed to authorize both indi
viduals and States to defraud, plunder and murder, if they find
it safe and lucrative to do so, the freemen, or rather the Gov
ernor of California and his subalterns, were in the habit of
commuting a large portion of the port-dues and duties, for
certain sums of money arid quantities of goods for their own
personal use. Their capacity for this kind of plundering
formed in part the basis of their credit with foreign mer
chants and traders, from whom they obtained their supplies.
Hence the anxieties of Sa Exeellentissimo about the bark.
If she had come to anchor there must necessarily be a small
chance for robbery in the tonnage dues ; and if richly laden
with goods subject to duties, she would be quite a mine,
which he already dreamed himself plundering with golden
success. As soon as we could turn his attention from these
hopes of gain, Mr. Larkin informed him of my wishes, and
with much deference suggested the humanity of transferring
me from idleness on shipboard to the enjoyment of Castilian
industry ashore ; to wit, lounging, grinning, sleeping, and
smoking rolls of paper tinctured with " the weed."
Sa Exeellentissimo found it difficult to comprehend the
necessity of the request, inasmuch as the bark might come
to anchor for my quiet and health, in which case I would be
permitted as seamen were, to be on shore during her stay in
port. But being informed that there were no goods on board
the bark, that it was not intended to bring her to anchor, and
that, consequently, neither bribes nor Mexican tribute would

56 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
be paid to Don Juan Baptiste Alvarado, El Goubernadcr
del Alta California, he frankly confessed that he saw no
necessity, indicated by his interest, why I shoulder have
existed, and still less made any of my pleasures dependent
on him or his Alta California. _
This I esteemed, as in all chivalry I was bound to do, an
exhibition of the great elevation of character as well as an in
dication of the height from which Sa Exeellentissimo had
descended to reach my case ! Therefore, 1 bowed assent to
the majesty of suchphilanthropic and truly civilized opinions.
What man in Castilian presence could do otherwise 1 But
a doubtstill hung over the eyebrows of the don. He looked
at my height, six feet Green Mountain measure ; at my ward
robe, consisting of a Hudson Bay Company's frockcoat of
blue, a speckled vest from London, pants of English extrac
tion, boots from the lapstones of Lynn ; and, shrugging his
shoulders like a grisly bear in an effort to be a gentleman,
said we could go to the alcalde ; then with most sovereign
emphasis bowed us out of his presence !
The alcalde was at home, or rather in his adobie den ; for
there is neither a home nor the semblance of it in all the
Spanish world. He was taking his siesta, or midday nap, on
a bull's hide in the corner of his apartment. The dog, which
had barked us into his presence, had awakened him ; so that
when we entered the room, he was rolling his burly form
towards a chair. After being well-seated, and having with
Some difficulty brought his eyes to bear upon usj he was
pleased to remark that, the weather was fine, and that various
other things existed in a definite state ; as that his dog was
very fat ; the bean crop gave good promise ; the Hawaiian
Islands were ten leagues from Monterey ! ! ! the Californi-
ans were very brave men ; and that the Don Quixote had
not come to anchor ! ! To each of these announcements I
' > gave an unqualified assent.
Hiving ascertained by these means that. I was well-
instructed in beasts, beans, men and geography, he imme-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIaS. 57
diately took me into favor, expressed great surprise that my
friend should have thought that he could refuse my request,
and assured me that it gave him infinite pleasure to write
me a permission of residence. Here it is. When the
reader is informed that it was an impromptu production, he
will be able to estimate, in a faint degree indeed, the in
telligence and genius of the Californians. Only one hour
and a quarter were consumed in bringing it forth !
Mr. Thomas J. Farnham pasagero en la barca Americana Don Quixote
habiendama manifesta do el pasporte de su consul y queriendo quidar en
fierra a (vertarblesse) en su salud le doy el presente bolito de des enbarco
en el puerta de Monterey 1 1
A 18 de Abril de 1840. Antonio Ma. Orio.
A, permission this to remain on shore as long as might be
necessary for the restoration of my health ! Having received
it with many demonstrations of regard, we took our leave of
the illustrious dignitary under a running salute from his dog,
and repaired to el casa del goubernador (the governor's
house) . The dog accompanied us. He appeared to rejoice
in our presence. After he saw us pass into the governor's
door he howled piteously, and trotted off toward the prisons.
We obtained from Sa Exeellentissimo a written confir
mation of the alcalde's document, and returned to the house
of Mr. Larkin. There we met a number of Americans and
Britons, from whom we learned that their countrymen were
famishing unto death in the prisons of the town ! A con
sultation, held in an upper room, in whispers, under the
dreadful ceitainty that death would be the penalty if it be
came known to the demon government, ended the labors
of that day and night ! The house of my friend was but a
few rods from some of the prisons, and when all was still at
midnight, I could hear, between the breaking surges on the
beach, the prisoners cry —
" Breathe fast, for God's sake ! I must come to the grate
soon or I shall suffocate !"

58

SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.

.< Give me water, you merciless devils ! give me water P
k You infernal sons of the Inquisition, give me drink or fire
!" ""
"'then another voice at the grate exclaimed " Give
us something to eat! 0 God, we shall die here ! We cant
breathe! Half of us can't speak !" ., K WWIM
And then another voice, husky and weak, sald "Why !
in a tone of despairing agony, which became so low and
inarticulate that I could not hear what followed. Ihadnot
seen the prisoners, but their cries banished sleep and all
desire to rest. I therefore went out upon the balcony and
seating myself in a dark nook watched, as well as I was
able, the movements in the town.
A portion of the troops were on duty as an armed patrol.
The tap of the drum and the challenge, " Quin vive 1" with
the reply, " Californias ;» " Quin jente V> and the response,
« Mexicanos," broke in upon their heavy, sounding tramp !
About four o'clock the men in the castello, or fort, beeame
alarmed by the cracking of dry brush in the neighboring
wood, and the patrol rushed to their rescue. It proved to
be the echo of their fears. The patrol soon returned to
their posts, and silence again reigned. It was a horrid
night ! Nature was laughing and bright on earth and in the
sky. But fiends had gone forth to mar her beauty. The
same spirit which had devastated the virtues and freedom
of half the earth was abroad in the wilds of California, as
of old in Chili, torturing those whose eourage'their bravado
could not subdue, or their pretension intimidate !
The sun came up next morning most brightly in that clear
blue sky of California : -but it shone on sadder hearts than I
i, had ever before seen. The flowers were creeping up along
trie streets ; and the grasses, invigorated by the winter rains
and the warm days of spring, were growing on the hills ; the
cattle and wild animals roamed about enjoying the rich liberty
which nature gave them. They possessed no qualities which
could excite the wakefulness of Spanish malignity ! They

1

TRAVELS IN THE CAL.FORNIAS. 59
were .owing and frolicking out their freedom on the kind
and beautiful earth. But man was raising the murderous
blade against his fellow !
• Mr. Larkin made arrangements with the government to
day to furnish the prisoners with food and drink. Their
cells were examined and found destitute of floors ! , The
ground within was so wet that the poor fellows sunk into it
several inches at every step. On this they stood, sat and
slept ! From fifty to sixty were crowded into a room
eighteen or twenty feet square ! They could not all sit at
once, even in that vile pool, still less lie down. ! The cells
were so low and tight that the only way of getting air enough
to sustain life, was to divide themselves into platoons, each of
which in turn stood at the grate awhile to breathe ! Mostof
theffi had been in prison seven or eight days, with no food
except a trifling quantity, clandestinely introduced by a few
daring countrymen outside. When I arrived at the prisons
some of them were frantic; others in a stupor of exhaustion ;
one appeared to be dying ! An American citizen went to
the governor with a statement of their condition, and demand
ed that -both Americans and Britons should be handsomely
treated ; that they should have air, food, drink, permission to
bathe, and dry hides wherewith to cover the mud in their cells.
Since our arrival the Don Quixote had been lying off and
on. She usually ran out one morning and swept into the
harbor the next. This circumstance, together with the fact
that this American was always on the shore when the vessel
passed the anchorage, making signals to her, which neither
himself nor those on board understood, created the idea that
he was an official of the American Government, and as
such, had rights which it would be well to respect. This
impression was much strengthened, both by the accidental
circumstance of his wearing a cutlass with an eagle upon
its hilt, and his holding restraints imposed on his acts as
highly insulting and disrespectful ! This course of con
duct had the effect designed. Those cowardly apologies of

60 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
men became thoroughly impressed that he bore in his own
person the combined powers of the American Republic and
the British Empire. Clothed, therefore, with authority so
potent, he took measures for the relief of the prisoners.
But, before entering upon the narration of these measures,
it will be proper to give a history of the events which led to
theimPrisonmentofthesemen,andtheirintendedimmolation. In 1836, a Mexican General by the name of Eehuandra
was the Commandant General of Upper California. Some
years previous, as will be particularly shown in another
place, he had come up from Mexico, with a band of fellow-
myrmidons,and having received the submission of the coun
try to the authorities of that Republic, commenced robbing
the Government for which he acted, and the several Inte
rests which he had been sent to protect. Nothing escaped
his mercenary clutches. The people, the missions, and
the revenue were robbed indiscriminately, as opportunity
offered. A few of the white population of the country par
ticipated in these acts. But generally the Californians were
the sufferers ; and, as is always the case with unhonored
rogues, raised a perpetual storm of indignation about the
dishonest deeds of those whom they desired to supplant, for
the purpose of enacting the same things. An occurrence of
this kind was the immediate cause of the Revolution in 1836.
A vessel had cast anchor in the harbor of Monterey. Gen
eral Eehuandra, not having that honorable confidence in the
immaculate integrity of the custom-house officers, which
thieves are accustomed to have in one another, placed a guard
on board the craft, to prevent them from receiving bribes for
their own exclusive benefit. To this the officers demurred ;
and in order to free their territory from the creatures of one
whose conscience would compel him to receive bribes for his
own pocket instead of theirs, they sent their own clerk, a
young rascal of the country, by the name of Juan Baptiste
Alvarado, to inform the general that it was improper to sug
gest, by putting a guard on board, that the officers of the ship

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 61
which lay under the fort, either intended or dared attempt,
to evade the payment of duties ! !
The General, however, was too well acquainted with his*
inalienable rights, to be wheedled out of them in this man
ner ; and manifested his indignation toward the clerk, for
attempting to abtrude his plebeian presence on his golden
dream, by ordering him to be put in irons. Alvarado, how
ever, escaped. He fled into the country, rallied the farmers,
who still loved the descendants of Philip the Second more
than El Presidente, and formed a camp at the Mission of
San Juan, thirty miles eastward from Monterey.
Near this mission lived an old Tennessean by the name of
Graham ; a stout, sturdy backwoodsman, of a stamp which
exists only on the frontiers of the American States— men with
the blood of the ancientNormans and Saxons in their veins —
with hearts as large as their bodies can hold, beating nothing
but kindness till injustice shows its fangs, and then, lion-like,
striking for vengeance. This trait of natural character had
been fostered in Graham by the life he had led. Early trained
to the use of the rifle, he -had learned to regard it as his friend
and protector ; and when the season of manhood arrived, he
threw it upon his shoulder and sought the wilderness, where
he could enjoy its protection and be fed by its faithful aim.
He became a beaver hunter — a cavalier of the wilderness —
that noble specimen of brave men who have muscles for rid
ing wild horses and warring with wild beasts, a steady brain
and foot for climbing the icy precipice, a strong breast for
the mountain torrent, an unrelenting trap for the beaver, a
keen eye and a deadly shot for a foe. A man was this Gra
ham, who stood up boldly before his kind, conscious of pos
sessing physical and mental powers adequate to any emer
gency. He had a strong aversion to the elegant edifices, the
furniture, wardrobe, and food of polished life, coupled with
a vivid love of mountain sublimity, the beautiful herbage on
uncultivated districts, the wild animals and the streams of
water roaring down the frozen heights. Even the grey

62 SCENES1NTHE PACIFIC.
deserts with the hunger and thirst incident to travelling over
them, had wild and exciting charms for him. On these bis
giant frame had obstacles to contend with worthy of its
powers; suffering and even old Death himself to take by
the throat and vanquish. These and the open air by a pro
jecting rock, with the dry sand or the green sward for a
'hearth and couch, a crackling pine knot fire blazing against
the cliffs, and roasting a buffalo hump or the "sirloin of an
elk, after the day's hunt had ended, constituted the life.he
was fitted to enjoy.
He had forced his way over the Rocky Mountains and
located himself in Upper California, This country was
suited to his tastes. Its climate allowed him to sleep in the
open air most of the year; an abundance of native animals
covered the hills, and nature was spread out luxuriantly
everywhere, in wild and untrodden' freshness.
As I have said, this brave man resided near the mission of
San Juan. He had erected there a rude dwelling, and a dis
tillery. On the neighboring plans he herded large bandsof
horses, mules and cattle. To this fine old fellow Alvarado
made known his peril and designs ; whereupon the foreign
ers assembled at Graham's summons, elected him their cap
tain, an Englishman by the name of Coppinger, lieutenant,
and repaired to San Juan. A council was held between the
clerk and the foreigners. The former promised, that if by
the aid of the latter he should successfully defend himself
against the acting governor, and obtain possession of the
country, it should be declared independent of Mexico ; and
that the law, which incapacitated foreigners from holding
real estate, should be abrogated. The foreigners agreed, on
these conditions, to aid Alvarado to the utmost of their
power. The next morning the united forces, fifty foreigners
and twenty-five Californians, marched against Monterey.
They entered the town in the afternoon of the same day,
and took up their position in the woods, one hundred rods in
the rear of the castello or fort. No event of importance

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 63
occurred till the night came on, when the awe with which
darkness sometimes inspires even the bravest minds, fell
with such overwhelming power on the valorous garrison,
that notwithstanding they were supported by the open
mouths of the guns, the barking of their dog, the roar of the
surf, and the hooting of an owl on a neighboring tree-top,
they were absolutely compelled to forsake the ramparts,
for the more certain protection of unmolested flight !
Graham and his men perceiving the discomfdrture of their
enemies, availed themselves of their absence by taking pos
session of the evacuated fort. Alvarado, meantime, actuated,
it is to be presumed, by a desire to save life and a philosophi
cal conviction of the dangers incident to bullets rendered
crazy by burning powder, restrained the fiery ardor of his
twenty-five Californians', and held his own person beyond
the reach of harm, in case some luckless horse or cowstray-
ing over hostile ground on that memorable night, should
scare the fleeing garrison into an act of defence. The next
morning he and hi3 brave men were found peering from
their hiding-places in a state of great anxiety and alarm !
A battle had almost been begun in Monterey ! The blood
of their enemies had almost begun to fatten the soil of Cal-
fornia ! They themselves had nearly stepped in blood knee
deep, among the carcasses of the hated Mexicans ; the be
som of destruction had shaken itself, and had barely missed
commencing the havoc of bone and flesh, which would have
crushed every mote of Mexican life within their borders !
Thus they gloried among the bushes ! !
Old Graham stood at sunrise on the earth embankments
of the Castello. A hunting shirt of buckskin, and pants of
the same material, covered his giant frame ; a slouched
broad-brimmed hat hung aroand his head, and half covered
his large, quiet, determined face! In his right hand he
held his rifle, the tried companion of many fearful strifes
among the savages ! Four or five of his men sat on a dis
mounted thirty-two pounder, querying whether they could

64 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
repair its woodwork so as to bring it to .bear on the Presido
or government house. Others stood by a bucket of water,
swabbing out their rifle barrels, and cleaning and drying
the locks. Others of them were cooking beef; others
whittling, swearing, and chewing tobacco.
About nine o'clock flags of truce began their onerous
duties. Al vaf ado came from the woods and took part in the
councils. The insurgents demanded the surrender of the Gov
ernment; whereat the cavaliers of the Presido considered
themselves immeasurably insulted. Two days were passed in
this parleying without advancing the interests of eitherparty.
They were days big with the fate of the future ; and who
could weary under their dreadful burthens 1 Not such men
as Alvarado. He bore himself like the man he was, through
all the trying period. He uniformly preferred delay to fight
ing ! He was sustained in this preference by his right hand
villain, Captain Jose Castro. Indeed, it was the unanimous
choice bf the whole Californian division of the insurgent
forces, to wit, the twenty-five before mentioned, to massacre
timeinsteadof men. Fornotasingle one of them manifested
the slightest impatience orinsubordination under the delay —
a fact which perhaps demonstrates the perfection of military
discipline in California ! The foreigners differed from their
illustrious allies. Graham thought "two days and two nights
a waitin' on them baars^* was enough." Accordingly, taking
the responsibility on himself, after the manner of his distin
guished fellow-statesman, he sent a flag to the Presido with
notice that two hours only would be given the Governor
and his officers to surrender themselves prisoners of war.
The demand of the old Tennessean, however, was disre
garded. The appointed time passed without the surrender.
Forbearance was at an end. The lieutenant of Graham's
rifle corps was ordered to level a four pound brass piece at
the Presido. A ball was sent through. its tiled roof, imme
diately over the heads of the Mexican magnates !
* Bears.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 65
It is wonderful how small a portion of necessity mingled
with human affairs will quicken men's perceptions of duty.
No sooner did the broken tiles rattle around the heads of these
valiant warriors, than they became suddenly convinced that it
would be exceedingly hazardous to continue their resistance
against such ah overwhelming force ; and that the central
government at Mexico would not be so unreasonable as to ex
pect four or five hundred troops to hold out against Los Rifle-
ros Americanos. This view of the case, taken through the
shattered roof of the Presidio, was conclusive. They sur
rendered at discretion ! Alvarado marched into the citadel
of government ! The Mexican troops laid down their arms !
The emblems of office were transferred to the custom-house
clerk ! When these things had transpired, General Eehuan
dra was pleased to say to Alvarado with the most exalted
good sense, " had we known that we were thrice as many as
you, we should not have surrendered so soon ;" thereby de
monstrating to the future historian del Alta California that he
and his friends would either have fought the seventy-five with
their five hundred or protracted the siege of bravado much
longer, had they been able to count the said seventy-five at
the distance or five hundred yards, during the lapse of two
days ! Difficulties in the use of optics often occur in Cali
fornian warfare which are not treated of in the books.
The end of this revolution came ! The schooner Clarion of
New Bedford was purchased, and the Mexican officers ship
ped to San Bias. Juan Baptiste Alvarado customs' clerk
proclaimed El Alta California an independent republic, and
himself its govenor. But more of this on a subsequent page.
It suffices my present purpose to have shown how far this Al
varado was indebted to the foreigners dying in his prisons for
the station and power which he was using for their desruc-
tion. He could never have obtained possession of Monte
rey without them. And had they not slept on their rifles
for months after that event, a party in the south under his
uncle Don Carlos Carrillo, or another in the north under his

66 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
uncle Guadaloupe Viejo, would have torn him from his ill-
gotten elevation.
Thus upper California became an independent state, and
Alvarado its governor. The central government at Mexico
was of course much shocked at.such unpolished, ungloved
impudence ; threatened much, and at last in September,
1837, induced Alvarado to buy a ship, send despatches to
Mexico, and become El Goubernador Constitutionel del Alta
California, associated with his uncle Viejo, as Commandante
General: After this adhesion to the Mexican Government,
Alvarado became suspicious of the foreigners who had aided
him in the " Revolution," and sought every means of an
noying them. They might depose him as they had done
Eehuandra. And if vengeance were, always a certain conse
quent of injustice, he reasohed well. The vagabond had
promised, in the day of his need, to bestow lands on those
who had saved his neck and raised him to power. This he
found convenient to forget. Like Spaniards of all ages and
countries, after having been well served by his friends, he
rewarded them with the most heartlsss ingratitude.
Graham in particular was closely watched. Aibold open-
handed man,' never concealing for an instant either his love
or hatred, but with the frankness and generosity of those
great sbuls, rough-hewn but majestically honest, who be
long to the valley States, he told the Governor his sins from
time to time, and demanded in the authorative tone of an
elder and affectionate brother, that he should redeem his
pledges. The good old man did not remember that a Span
iard would have lost his nationality had he done so. A
Spaniard tell the truth ! A Spaniard ever grateful for ser
vices rendered him ! He should have knocked at the tombs
of Columbus and Cortes, and every other man who ever
served that contemptible race. He would have learned the
truth, and gathered wisdom from it. He asked for justice
*nd received what we shall presently see.
Graham loved a horse. He had taken a fine gelding with

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 67
him when he emigrated to the country, and trained him for
the turf. Every year he had challenged the whole country
to the course, and as often won everything wagered against
bis noble steed. Jose Castro, a villain with a lean body,
dark face, black mustachios, pointed nose, flabby cheeks,
uneasy eyes, and hands and heart so foul as instinctively
to require a Spanish cloak, in all sorts of weather, to cover
them, and his Exeellentissimo were among Graham's heavi
est debtors. Behold the reasons of their enmity.
Another cause of the general feelings against the Ameri
cans and Britons in California was the fact thatthe Senoritas,
the dear ladies, in the plenitude of their taste and- sympathy
for foreigners, preferred them as husbands. Hence Jose
Castro was heard to declare a little before the arrest of^the
Americans and Britons, that such indignities could not be
borne by Castilian blood ; " for a Californian Cavaliero can
not woo a Senorita if opposed in his suit by an American
sailor, and these heretics must be cleared from the land."
Such were the causes operating to arouse the wrath and
ripen the patriotism of the Californians.- The vengeance
of baffled gallantry bit at the ear of Captain Jose Castro ;
the fear of being brought to justice by Graham, tugged at
the liver of Alvarado ; and love the keenest, and hate the
bitterest, in a soul the smallest that was ever entitled to the
breath of life, burnished the little black eyes and inflamed
the little thin nose of one Corporal Pinto. These were the
worthies who projected the onslaught on the foreigners.
Their plan of operation was the shrewdest one ever con
cocted in California.
Sinee the " Revolution" of '36 the Californian Spaniards
had been convinced that the Americans and Britons were
vastly their superiors in courage and skill in war. From
the beginning, therefore, it was apparent that if they were
to get one or two hundred of these men into their power, it
must be done by stratagem. - Accordingly, Graham's annual
challenge for the spring races in 1840, was conveniently con-

gg SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
strued into a disguised attempt to gather his friends for the
purpose of overthrowing Alvarado's Government. Thissug
gestion was made to the minor leading interests, civil and
military, and a Junto was formed for the safety of the State ;
or in plain truth, for the gratification of the several personal
enmities and jealousies of half a dozen scoundrels, who,
disregarding the most sacred pledges to their friends, would
rob them of their property and sacrifice their lives.
This Junto marshalled their forces at Monterey/ and.
adopted the following plan for accomplishing their fiendish
designs:— The sojdiers were detailed into corps of two,
three and four in number, to which were attached several
civilized Indians. These bands were secretly sent to the
abodes of the' foreigners, with instructions to- convey them
with .dispatch before the Alcaldes of the neighboring rnis-
sions. .This they accomplished. The victims, on receiving ^
information that the Alcaldes desired to see them,' repaired"
to their presence, willingly, and.w-itb.out_ suspicion of evil
intentions against them. As soon, however, as.they arrived,
they were loaded with irons, and cast into the loathsome
Cells of these establishments in which the Padres formerly
confined their idisobedient converts !
" Thus, one by one, they succeeded in arresting one hundred
and sixty odd Americans and Britons — brave old trappers,^
mechanics, merchants, whalemen and tars — men who, if em
bodied under Graham, with their rifles in theirhands, could
have marched from San Francisco to San Lucas ; conquered
nine hundred miles of coast, and held the Government of the
country in spite of the dastards who were oppressing them.
But they were caught in a net skilfully thrown over them,
and were helpless. After each man was bolted,; safely in
his dungeon, the harpies proceeded to his house, violated
his family, plundered his premises, and drove away his live
stock as private booty— -the reward of the brave !
Having in this manner collected these unhappy men in
ne prisons of the several missions, Alvarado and Castro

Monterey, California. — P. 69.

San Francisco, California. — P. 69.
11

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 69
marched their whole disposable force to one mission after
-*noiher and brought them in heavy irons, a few at a time,
to the Government dungeons at Monterey !
The names of some of these men, together with their
places of residence in California, which I happened to pre
serve, are given below.
Those who lived near the mission of San Francisco Bay,
were, Lewis Pollock, John Vermillion, William McGlone,
Daniel Sill, George Frazer, Nathaniel Spear, Captain Mc-
Kenley, Jonathan Fuller, Captain Beechay.
Those who resided at El Pueblo San Jose, were William
Blirkin, George Fergusson, Thomas Thomas, William Lang-
leys, Jonathan Mirayno, William Weeks, Jonathan Coppm-
ger, William Hants, Charles Brown, Thomas Tomlison,
Richard Westlake, James Peace, Robert McCallister, Tho
mas Bowen, Elisha Perry, Nathan Daily, Robert Livermore,
William Gulenack, Jonathan Marsh, Peter Storm, Job Dye,
William Smith, Jonathan Warner, and two Frenchmen.
Those from Santa Cruz, were, William Thompson, James
Burnes, F. Eagle, Henry Knight, Jonathan Lucas, George
Chapel, Henry Cooper, Jonathan Herven, James Lowyado,
Francisco, LaGrace, Michael Lodge, Josiah Whitehouse,
Robert King.
From Natiyada, Graham's neighborhood, were, Isaac
Graham, Daniel Goff, William Burton, Jonathan Smith,
and Henry Niel.
Those residents at Selenias, were, William Chard, James
O'Brien, William Bronda, William Malthas, Thomas Cole,
Thomas Lewis, William Ware, and James Majous.
In Monterey, were, Leonard Carmichael, Edward Wat
son, Andrew Watson, Henry McVicker, H. Hathaway,
Henry Bee, William Trevavan, Jonathan Maynard, William
Henderson, James Meadows, Jonathan Higgins, Mark West,
George Kenlock, Jeremiah Jones, Jonathan Chamberlain,
Daniel  , Joseph Bowles, James Kelley, James Fair-
well, Walter Adams, Mr. Horton, James Atterville, Mr.

70 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
Jones, Jonathan Christian, William Chay, William Dickey,
Charles Williams, Alvan Willson.

CHAPTER V.
THE PRISONRES.

Forty-one of the prisoners whose names appear on the
concluding pages of the last Chapter, furnished me with
written accounts of their arrest, and subsequent treatment.
Believing that the reader will.be more interested in these,
than in any abstract that could be made of them, I will trans
cribe a few which best illustrate this barbarous persecution.
" I, Isaac Graham, a citizen of the United States of Ame
rica, came across the continent to California, with a pass
port from the Mexican authorities of Chihuahua, and ob
tained from the General commanding in Upper California,
a license to run a distillery in that country, for the term of
eight years ; this business I have followed since that time.
" On the sixth of April last (1840) there appeared to be
mischief brewing. But what it would prove to be, none of
us could tell. The Californian Spaniards travelled usually
much about the country ; and conversed with the foreigners
rather shyly. They had threatened to drive us out of Califor
nia several times ; and we tried to guess whether they were
at last preparing to accomplish it. But from what we saw
it was impossible to form a satisfactory conclusion.
" On the same day, however, Jose Castro, Bicenta Con-
trine, Ankel Castro, and a runaway Botany Bay English con
vict, by the name of Garner, a vile fellow, and an enemy ot
mine, because the foreigners would not elect him their cap
tain, passed and repassed my house several times, and con-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 71
versed together in low tones of voice. I stopped Jose Cas
tro, and asked him what was the matter. He repliedthat he
was going to march against the Commandante General
Viego, at San Francisco, to depose him from the command
of the forces. His two companions, made the same assertion.
I knew that Alvarado was afraid of Viego, and that Jose
Castro was ambitious for his place ; and for these reasons, I
partly concluded that they spoke the truth.
" A little later in the day, however, the vagabond Garner
called at my house, and having drunk freely of whisky be
came rather boisterous, and said significantly, that the time
of some people would be short ; that Jose Castro had re
ceived orders from the governor to drive the foreigners out of
California, ortodispose of them in some other way. He boast
ed that he himself should have a pleasant participation in
the business. I could not persuade him to inform me whenv
or in what manner this was to take place. I had heard the
same threat made a number of times within the past year, but
it resulted in nothing. Believing, therefore, that Garner's
words proceeded from the whisky he had drunk, rather than
the truth, I left him in the yard, and in company with my
partner, Mr. Niel, went to bed. Messrs. Morris and Bar
ton, as usual, took to their couches in the still-hou'-e.
" We slept quietly, until about three o'clock in the morn
ing, when I was awakened by the discharge of a pistol near
my head, the ball of which passed through the handkerchief
about my neck. I sprang to my feet, and jumped in the
direction of the villains, when they discharged six other
pistols, so near me that my shirt took fire in several places.
Fortunately, the darkness and the trepidation of the cow
ards prevented their taking good aim ; for only one of their
shots took effect, and that in my left arm.
" After firing they fell back a few paces and commenced
reloading their pieces. I perceive by the light of their pis
tols that they were too numerous for a single man to contend
with, and determined to escape. But I had scarcely got six

72 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
paces from the door when I was overtaken and assailed with
heavy blows from their swords. These I succeeded in parry
ing off to such an extent that I was not much injured by
them. Being incensed at last by my successful resistance,
they grappled with me, and threw me down, when an ensign
by the name of Joaquin Terres drew his dirk, and saying
with an oath that he would let out my life, made a thrust at
my heart. God saved me again. The weapon passing be
tween my body and left arm, sunk deep in the ground ! and
before he had an opportunity of repeating his blow they
dragged me up the hill in the rear of my house, where Jose
Castro was standing. They called to him, ' Here he is !
here he is !' whereupon Castro rode up and struck me with
the back of his sword over the head so severely as to bring
me to the ground ; and then ordered four balls to be put
through me. But this was prevented by a faithful Indian
in my service, who threw himself on me, declaring that hp
would receive the balls in his own heart!
" Unwilling to be thwarted, however, in their design to de
stroy me, they next fastened a rope to one of my arms, and
passed it to a man on horseback, who wound it firmly around
the horn of his saddle. Then the rest of them, taking hold of
the other arm, endeavored to haul my shoulders out of joint !
But the rope broke. Thinking the scoundrels bent on killing
me insome way, I begged for liberty to commend my soul to
God. To this they replied, ' You shall never pray till you
kneel over your grave.' They then conducted me to my
house and permitted me to put on my pantaloons. While
there they asked where Mr. Morris was. I told them I did
not know. They then put their lances to my breast and told
me to call him or die. I answered that he had'made his es
cape. While I was saying this, Mr. Niel came to the house,
pale from loss of blood and vomiting terribly. He had had a
lance thrust through his thigh, and a deep wound in his
leg, which nearly separated the cord of the heel.
"They next put Mr. Niel and myself in double irons, car-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORN AS. 73
ried us half a mile into the plain, left us under guard, and
returned to plunder the house. After having been absent
a short time, they came and conducted us back to our
rifled home. As soon as we arrived there, a man by the
name of Manuel Larias approached me with, a drawn sword,
and commanded me to inform him where my money was
buried. I told him I had none. He cursed me and turn
ed away. I had some deposited in the ground, but I de
termined they should never enjoy it. After having robbed
me of my books and papers, which were all the evidence I
had that these very scoundrels and others were largely in
debted to me, and having taken whatever was valuable on
my premises, and distributed it among themselves, they
proceeded to take an inventory of what was left, as if it
were the whole of my property ; and then put me on
horseback and sent me to this prison. You know the rest.
I am chained like a dog, and suffer like one."
Mr. Albert F. Morris, whose name appears in Graham's
account of his arrest, gives me some farther particulars. It
may bewell here to say, that this Morris was a British subject,
a descendant of the former Surveyor-General of Nova Scotia
or New Brunswick. Having strayed from friends and home,
he found himself in California destitute of the means of liveli
hood. In this state of want he hired himself to Graham as
a laborer in his distillery ; and was living on his premises
in that capacity at the time of the events just related.
" On the night of the sixth of April, 1S40, when we were
about going to bed, two persons arrived who asked for
lodgings. Mr. Graham told them they might, find quarters
with us in the distillery. They dismounted and took bed
with me and Mr. Barton ; and Messrs. Graham and his
partner Neil took their bed in the. house, about thirty
yards distant from us.
" Nothing occurred to disturb us until about three o'clock
in the morning, when, being awakened by aloud knocking at
the distillery door, I sprang out of my bed, and asked whc

74 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
was there 1 No answer being returned, I repeated the ques
tion in a stern voice, when a man outside replied, ' Nicholas
Alviso.' He being a near neighbor I answered, ' very Well,'
and told one of those present to light a candle. But while
this was being done, a number of people outside called out,
'Where is Graham 1 Tear the devil in pieces !' and imme
diately afterward rushed with great violence against the door.
I told them to wait a moment, but they cried out with still
greater clamor for Graham, and seemed to rush toward the
house where he slept. Quite a number, however, remained
at the distillery, beating at the ddor in a savage manner and
threatening death to the inmates. I drew my pistols, and at
that instant Nicholas Alviso called aloud for all hands to beat
down the door. On they came against it; I fired; and they
returned the fire and wounded me in the left side. I then
seized my rifle and snapped it at them ; they retreated, and
I escaped into the swamp in the rear of Graham's house.
After concealing myself among the bushes, I saw fifteen
or twenty men with drawn swords making most deadly blows
at Messrs. Graham and Neil. I heard Ankel Castro give
orders to hew them down ; Garner urged them to do the same.
" I remained in the swamp till late the next night, when
I walked eight miles to the farm of Mr. Littlejohn, where
I remained two days. Then, with an Indian to guide me,
I rode to the mission of Santa Cruz on the north side of
Monterey Bay. Here I called at the houses of Messrs. Dye
and Young ; told them what had happened, and went up
among the hills for safety.
" On the sixteenth, Francisco Young came to me and said,
that Captain Burlinen had come after me with a company of
riflemen. He assured me that I should not be put to death or
manacled if I surrendered myself witho Ut resistance . I con-
cluded after some hesitation to do so, and followed him down
to Mr. Dye's distillery. There I found Captain Burlinen, with
eleven Californians, armed with the rifles which they had
taken from the Britons and Americans. After obtaining a

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 75
promise from the captain that my life should not be taken
and that I should not be put in irons or otherwise bound, I
delivered my rifle to him and became his prisoner. I was
then marched down to the Mission of Santa Cruz between
the soldiers, and put under guard until the next morning.
" Soon after sunrise on the seventeenth they began pre
parations for taking me to Monterey. I had, when escap
ing from Graham's premises, left most of my clothing, and
not knowing in what this affair might end, I desired the
captain to take me by that route. To this he consented.
But it was of no service to me ; for I found both my port
manteaus broken open and all my clothing stolen: Mr. Niel
was in the house. He had be^n badly wounded in the af
fray of the sixth. A lance 1. d been thrust through his
thigh, and a deep sabre cut inflicted upon the leg. He told
me that the Botany Bay Garner did it. I saw several
balls sticking in the walls of the bedroom in which Mr. Niel
lay. The floor was much stained with blood. The pre
mises had been plundered. We stayed at Graham's house
an hour, and proceeded towards Monterey.
"I arrived in town the next day. It was occupied by sol
diers, and the prisons filled with foreigners. They immedi
ately put me in double-irons; and carried me before a body of
men who pretended to act as a court of justice. I desired
that Mr. Spence, the alcalde, might be sent for as an inter
preter. But they would not allow it. They said I must be
content with the one they had provided. His name was
Nariago. He was by no means capable Of the task. But I
was compelled to take him or none, and go into the exami
nation. I was sworn ; and then the interpreter said it was
well known that I had been writing letters against the gov
ernment. I asked him to produce the letters, that I might
see them. He replied, ' that it is not necessary.' He then
said that Mr. Graham was at the head of an attempted revo
lutionary movement against the government, and that I
knew something about it. I replied that I had never heard
12

76 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Mr. Graham suggest anything of the kind. I said that he
had expressed a determination to represent to the governor
the shameful treatment, of Mr. Higgins ; and the outrage
upon the foreigners while they were burying their country
men at Santa Barbara ; and particularly the monstrous deed
of digging him up after burial, and leaving his corpse naked
above ground. I confessed I had offered to gowithnim to
the governor for that purpose.
"The interpreter then asked why I fired on the people at
Graham's distillery. I answered that I did it in self- defence.
He inquired how that could be. I told him, as it was impos
sible for me in the night time to see those who made the as
sault on the distillery, I could not know whether they were
the authorized agents of the government, or robbers whom it
was my duty to resist. My life was at stake, and I fought
for it, as they would have done under like circumstances. It
was next asked why I did not seek redress from the govern
ment, if I supposed them robbers. I said that I had no time
to do so between their attempts to kill me and.my own neces
sary acts to prevent them ; and that if I had had opportunity
I had no assurance, under the circumstances, that govern
ment would protect me. This last answer was translated with
some embellishments; and the interpreterinformed me it was
considered highly insulting to the governor. I answered that
no insult was intended, but that I was under oath, and could
not vary from the truth. I was then asked why I fled to
Santa Cruz. My reply was that I had lost all confidence in
the justice of the government, and flew to the wilderness
for protection. At this the alcalde was greatly incensed, or
dered my answers to be reduced to writing, and commanded
me to. affix my name to them, together with the additions
which their desire for an excuse to destroy me induced them
to append. I stated that I did not suppose myself obliged
to place my signature to an instrument written in a lan
guage which I could not read. I signed it with swords
over my head. What the paper contained I never knew.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 77
They would not allow me to attempt to read it. The ex
amination being ended, they took me to the fort and placed
me under a strong guard for the night. The next day, the
nineteenth of April, they marched me under escort of a
company of infantry into the public green, before the gov
ernment house, to hear prayers. After which, I have no
doubt, they intended to shoot me, but were prevented from
doing it through the fear of Mr.  ."
I have other interesting narratives showing the most in
human conduct in the Governor of Upper California, while
arresting these Americans and Britons, which I must pass for
want of space. There is one, however, that refers more
especially to the causes which brought many of them into a
country where they were subject to such merciless usage,
that I cannot prevail on myself to omit. It is a saying among
seamen that when a ship doubles Cape Horn " the rope's end
and shackles are the Old Man's argument." Sailors in
those seas are often glad even to escape from a bloody deck
to the chances of dungeons and rapiers in the Californias.
" I left the American ship Hope, of Philadelphia, in Ma
nilla, and there being no chance of getting a passage to the
United States from that place, I went passenger to Macao, in
the ship Rasselas, of Boston, commanded by Captain ******.
On my arrival there, all his crew having left him, Captain
****** asked me to ship on board his vessel for a voyage. I
and some others agreed to do so on these conditions : that if
after serving one month, while the ship lay in that port, we
did not like it, we were to be at liberty to leave her. When
the month was up we all requested to go on shore. But he
said all might go except William Warren, Robert McAlister,
and myself. We were accordingly detained on board. No
boat from the shore was allowed to come alongside for fear we
should escape. After a short time the ship proceeded on her
voyage to Kamschatka. And in this way were we forced to
go without signing articles, and contrary to our agreement.

7S SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
One day when my watch was at work on deck the captain
came along and said I was not sewing the sail right ; and I
said I thought I was; when he kicked me over the eye with a
large heavy shoe he had on at the time. And when the pain
made me start to my feet, with the blood running down my
face, he said that I wanted to kill him with a knife, and im
mediately had me put (hands and feet) in irons. I remained
so for half an hour; when the captain, ordering me to be tied
up to the main-rigging, and taking his knife from his pocket,
cut the shirt off my back, and gave me two dozen lashes with
his own hand. After this I was taken down and thrown in
the longboat among the hogs, and fed on bread and water for
a fortnight. In this situation I suffered very much. Fori
was ironed hand and foot, the weather was extremely cold,
and I was without shirt, shoes and stockings. At the end of
the two weeks the ship arrived in port, and I was taken out
of the longboat. My feet, too, were stripped of their fetters ;
they were swelled so much that it was with difficulty I could
walk. I was kept manacled at the wrists till the ship had
got underway out of the harbor. After she had passed the
fort the captain ordered a boat lowered and sent me ashore on
a barren place, where it was impossible for me to go to the
settlement without a boat, and left me with the irons on my
hands. In this situation I spent two days and nights on the
beach without food or water, when I was picked up by a man
who gave me a passage in a canoe to the settlement. Here I
had to work hard for my victuals. After nine months the
schooner Clementine, of New York, arrived, and I asked
Captain  to take me out of the country, but he refused.
I then went to Ohotsk, thinking to go overland to St. Peters
burg ; finding a vessel there from the States, however, I
wanted to ship in her, but was detained by the Russian
government, and forced to work for the Russian American
Fur Company the two following years. After having been
forced to bear the rigors of two Siberian winters, without
much clothing, and to serve as a slave for two and a half years,

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 79
I got a passage to Sitka, Northwest America, where, after
five, months' working for the Russians, I was permitted to go
away in the brig Baicaland was discharged in San Francisco.
" John Warner, of Scotland."
The next event in this poor fellow's life was his impri
sonment in California. His sufferings there were scarcely
less than those he had endured elsewhere. The names of
his companions at Macao appear in the list of prisoners
which was given in the previous chapter.
The 19th was an exciting day. More of my countrymen
and others, allied by the blood of a common ancestry, were
arriving from the interior in irons. As soon as they came in
town they wrere taken in front of the prisons, pulled vio
lently from their horses by Indians, and frequently much
bruised by the fall. Their tormentors then searched them,
took forcible possession of their money, knives, flints, steels,
and every other little valuable about their persons, and
thrust them into prison. About eleven o'clock, A. M., the
American called on the governor to learn the cause of this
treatment, and was informed that there had been considera
ble conversation among the prisoners for months past, about
" being abused by the government," and that threats had
been made about " going to the governor for justice," and
other things of that kind, which rendered ti necessary for the
peace of the country to get them out of it, or into their graves.
The American replied, that the treaty stipulations between
the governments of the United States and Mexico required
the authorities of each country to treat the citizens of the
other with kindness and justice.
His Exeellentissimo replied, that the government of the
Californias would not be restrained in its action by treaties
which the central government might make ; and that if the
department of the Californias should violate such compact
with the United States, that government would seek redress
from Mexico ; that the Californian government was the mere

80 SCENESINTHEPACIFIC
agent of the Central government, and therefore not respon
sible to other nations for its administration. The Mexican
government alone had a right to complain of its acts.
The American replied, that the department of the Califor
nias being an integral part of the Mexican nation, any inju
ry which its authorities should inflict on the persons and rights
of other nations might well be redressed on the persons and
property of the Californias. The Governor answered, that
he thought not. He was then asked, what he supposed an
American or British fleet would do, if one should at that
time anchor at Monterey'?
This question startled the miserable tyrant. That spectral
fleet outside, its reputed commander in his very presence, and
the constant plying of the Don Quixote between him and his
armament, seemed for a moment to come before him, like a
fearful reality. Perceiving the impression made upon him,
the American took advantage of the occasion to remark, that
it would be necessary for the Californian government to
bring the persons then in confinement to a speedy trial for
any alleged misdemeanor, or set them at liberty without trial,
at a very early day; for the American government and its
citizens required him, and would, if necessary, compel him,
in this instance at least, to do an act of strict justice.
The quiet and firm tone of this address threw his Exeel
lentissimo into a most sublime rage. He ordered the guards
to fire on the American, and strode through his apartment,
bellowing fearfully, and raising a very dense cloud of dust !
The American, meanwhile, knowing that Californian noise
boded little danger, stood quietly awaiting the termination
of the tumult. It ceased after a while, and mildly saying
to the governor, that he had only to repeat, that the pris
oners must be tried and lawfully condemned or set at liberty,
and that soon, he walked through the guards and returned
to his lodgings. He had not been at home more than an
hour when a message arrived from Don Jose Castro, Alva-
rado's captain, advising, him not to appear in the streets

TRAVELS I II THE CALIFORNIAS. 81
again, for he feared that his life would be taken by the sub
a Items of the insulted government ! !
This message was intended to prevent him from appear
ing, before the grates, and encouraging the prisoners to bear
their sufferings like men worthy their high extraction ; and
also to deter him from interfering with the unholy purposes
of the Government against their lives. It failed of its object.
His .reply was, that he did not at that time comprehend the
necessity of Captain Castro's anxieties in regard to him, and
that as he should have business in the streets about sunset,
those who felt disposed would have an opportunity at that
time to make any demonstrations congenial with their feel
ings. At sunset he walked down to the prisons, heard
again through the grates the cries of their tenants for air and
water, and returned to Mr. Larkin's, to pass a miserable
night — a night of unavailing compassion.
The next day he went into two of the cells, took the
names and residence of a portion of the prisoners, and learn
ed their general condition. They had nothing on which to
sleep or sit except the wet ground ; w-ere emaciated, pale
and sickly ; some of them could scarcely walk to the grate
to get fresh air ; one could not stand, and his fellows from
time to time held him up to breathe ! They said in their
despair, that they could keep hope alive as long as he
dared to walk frequently before the prison, for his presence
obtained them better treatment from their enemies, and
encouraged the more desponding to expect through him
deliverance from their sufferings !
Graham's cell was under a double guard. It could not be
approached. People were even forbidden to pass it. I oc
casionally approached near enough to hear the lion-hearted
old man roar out his indignation. A great and brave soul
had that man. Its best energies had been bestowed on the
ingrate Alvarado. He had made the rascal into a gover
nor; and this was the beginning of his reward.
The afternoon was spent in much perplexity by the officers
13

82 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
of the government. Theybelieved the American to te some
thing more than a Commodore. His precise rank they could
not determine. It was evident to them that he had a fleet
outside under his command ! But he spoke and acted as if he
not only had authority on the seas, but the land also, even in
Los Californias! He was everywhere present, forbidding
one thing and ordering another ; rushing into the gover
nor's apartments, upbraiding him for his acts, and threaten
ing to bring destruction upon the town, unless all his capri
cious wishes in regard to the rebels were gratified. His cha
racter was an enigma. If he assumed it, death was too light
a punishment. If he were really a high agent of the Repub
lic of North America, his bearing and acts comported with
his character, and indicated that great circumspection would
be necessary in the course adopted toward the prisoners.
Mr. Larkin was called upon to express his opinion in this
vexed matter ; but he very properly said that he knew noth
ing about it, except that this man appeared to be one who
understood his' duties, whatever they were ; and suggested
that it might not be well to disregard his opinions, or other
wise treat him with disrespect. The subaltern dignitaries
thereupon made their complimentary acknowledgments to
the American, and passed a part of the day with him and
Mr. Larkin. It pleased them to say many handsome things
of the bravery and intelligence of the citizens of the States.
They were told in reply that the United States expected the
prisoners to be released from unjust and tyrannical impri
sonment. The SeHors bowed assent ; but mentioned as a
difficulty in the way of this proceeding^ that to release them
would be an act of great disrespect to the governor, Juan Bap-
tiste Alvarado. To this it was replied that such disrespect
would not be very alarming — not quite so serious as the
Paixhan guns of an American or British man-of-war.
Another night of suffering in the prisons. " Heat, heat !
Air ! for God's sake give lis air ! air ! You brown devils,

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 83
give us air !" were heard at intervals, till the noise of open
ing day drowned these agonizing entreaties.
On the morning of the twenty-first, the American was
retused any intercourse with the prisoners. During the fore
noon, therefore, he walked many times past the grates of the
several buildings ; stopped often and encouraged the in
mates by his mien to hope on still. Mr. Larkin had fed
them liberally in the morning, and furnished every cell with
an abundant supply of water. Yet they suffered greatly !
They looked on damp prison walls, and dragged chains at
their wrists and ancles ! They stood or sat or lay on
poached mud ! They saw in the future every image of coming
evil ! Suffocation, the pangs of death one at a time, com
ing slowly by day and among the sleepless moments of the
long and hot night— life pendent on the mercy of a Califor
nian Spaniard. These constituted heir condition.
About noon of the 21st, a half-breed Spaniard rode into town
at full speed and held a burried conversation with the guard
around the prison, and then entered the house of the Governor.
A few moments having elapsed he reappeared and went to the
quarters of Jose Castro. A moment more Castro came upon
the green, issued a hasty order to Corporal Pinto, and re
paired to the Govertior. The horseman, meantime, galloped
rapidly to the Castello. Immediately his Exeellentissimo ap
peared on the balcony, and ordered thedrums to beat to arms !
Soon there was hot haste in every dwelling. Women ran
to the windows and doors ; children pulled at their mothers'
skirts, and asked what had happened. The men ran to the
public green, took their stations in the ranks, and looked al
ternately towards the hills and the prisons. The dogs bark
ed and trotted about in apparent wonder ; the goats bleated
and stamped their feet ; and the horses neighed and ran to
the sea-side, and the cattle raised head and tail and ran to
gether ! In fact, such a time of locomotion had not for many
a day been seen in Monterey. In order to explain this phe
nomenon, it will be necessary for me to show its cause.

84 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
A law of the Republic of Mexico requires the citizens of
other nations, who would hunt, trap, or tr-ade for furs on any
portion of her dominions, to obtain from the proper authori
ties written licenses to that effect. Three, four, and six
months, are the usual terms of time specified in them, and the
rights conveyed by them vary, from the mere privilege of
trapping, to all the several franchises of a general trader.
With these stowed away in deer-skin pouches, enveloped in
the bladders of the buffalo so saturated with grease that nei
ther the storms nor streams can penetrate them, they load their
mules with traps and goods and go forth into the wilderness.
The territories over which they more commonly travel are
those which lie on the rivers Jila, the Colorado of the West,
the San Joaquin, and Sacramento, countries inhabited by In
dians only, among which the citizenr; of the Indio-Spanio-Bra-
vo-Furioso-Militario-Despptico-Republica-Americana, dare
not enter. Into these wastes the daring Americansfighttheir
way through the savage tribes ; trap the beaver among flying
poisoned arrows ; guard each other while they take in turn
their hurried sleep ; eat the flesh of wild animals and beaten
grass seed; or, as is often the case, loose themselves and die of
hunger, thirst, or the prostrating effects of the poisonous wa
ters in the sandy solitudes over which they attempt to travel.
If, however, they survive the hardships of these journey ings,
collect large quantities of furs, and return to theborders of civ
ilization, satisfied that their toil, however hazardous it may
have been, has resulted in an adequnte rewardritis still un
certain whether they have labored for their own or another's
benefit. The authorities who have sold them their licenses em
ploy various means to rob them of what they have so dearly
acquired. The more common of these is to raise questions in
regard to the validity of the licenses. To this end the hunter
and his furs are seized and carried before the Alcalde, on the
assumption that they have been obtained without lawful per
mission. The court is opened, and the possession and seizure
is proven — the hunter offers in evidence of his right of pro-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 85
perty, his carefully preserved license. It is examined by the
.court and if found to have been granted by the political par
ty then in power, it is declared sufficient, and the hunter and
his furs are i eleased. But if it unfortunately proceeded from
the antagonist political sect, the court, with a wisdom by no
means peculiar to themselves, pronounce that act of their
predecessors of no effect, and declare the furs forfeited to
the government. Nor is the hunter rendered secure from de
predation by the adjudged legality of his acquisition. Nu
merous instances have occurred in which the officials of New
Mexico, after they have rendered judgment in his favor,
have hired the partially civilized Indians to follow the poor
hunter, on his way over the plains towards his home, and
rob him of every skin he has taken, even his wardrobe, food,
animals, rifle, and left him to perish or return to the cold hos
pitality of those whose creatures have ruined him.
Instances of another manner of committing these robberies
have occurred. An American hunter obtained his license in
Chihuahua, went to Upper California, and after a very suc
cessful hunt among the Tulares' lakes in the valley of the San
Joaquin, went down to Monterey for rest and supplies. On
his arrival he was summoned before the Alcalde to show by
what right he had entered the country and trapped the1 beaver
He had lost some of his animals while fording a mountain
torrent, and with them his passport and license. He there
fore, could show no authority for his presence, nor cause why
the furs in his possession should not be declared contraband.
He was not permitted to send to Chihuahua for evidence.
The loss of some three thousand dollars' worth of furs, and
seven years imprisonment, at Monterey, was the result.
Another American by the name of Young, who appears in
in the narrative of my travels across the continent, was, by
means like these robbed of some thousands of beaver-skins
the avails of manyyears' toil. But this iniquitous plundering
has not been confined to the whites. The civilized Indians
on our western frontier, who make frequent excursions over

86 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the Rocky Mountains in search of furs, have from time to
time been subjected tolosSes and the most degrading personal
treatment from the Californian and New Mexican authorities.
Whites and Indians having been injured in this manner, with
out personal resistance, until all hope of retribution from the
federal government, and every prospect of better morals on
the part of the robbers, had forsaken them, have taken the
club into their own hands : and the ruined Indian and
white man put on the red paint of battle, band together,
make incursions among the covyards of Santa F6, and
even cross the mountains, and lay tribute upon the mules
and horses of the Californians. Such were the Indians
whose presence created the alarm at Monterey. They number
ed about fifty. And the vagabond government well knew that
those fifty rifles if brought upon thetown at that time would
send every poltroon of them to their last rest. No wonder,
then, that there was quaking at Monterey. Old scores and la-
ter ones would have been balanced, if those men had dream
ed that Americans and Britons were in the prisons of Monterey.
It was suggested by several persons that the prisoners
would be shot during the week without trial. Acting upon
this hint the American intimated to some of the more pru
dent and intelligent among them, his willingness to aid them
in breaking prison, taking the' town, and disposing of the
authorities at rope's end, if they did not give them a fair
trial within three days thereafter. These propositions in
spired them with such new life, or rather so kindled into
action the. little that was left in them, that those who had
strength enough to make themselves heard, struck up " Hail
Columbia," and " Rule Britannia," with a fervor that at
intervals choked their utterance !
I never before felt the force of these national songs. The
night was still! Scarcely a sound was heard save the heavy
surf beating on the rocks of Puentos Pinos. I walked
around the prisons till eleven o'clock, to the peril of life, in
deed, but in the enjoyment of feelings dearer than life itself.

TRAVELS IN T HE CALIFORNIAS. 87
" Hail Columbia !" I wish my readers could conceive
something of the stirring might of those words sung by
parched lips within the prisons of California ! Dying Amer
icans sang them! The unconquerable sons of the Repub
lic sang them, though strength was sinking and the blood ,
flowed feebly through her children's veins !
" Rule Britannia!" The battle anthem of the fatherland !
Sturdy Britons were there to sing. Their voices seemed weak
when they began it ; but as their feelings seized more per
fectly the inspiration of poetry and music, the floating walls
of the Island Empire seemed to heave in view. " Rule Bri
tannia !" It came ringing through the grates during the lat
ter part of the evening with a broken, wild shout, as if the
breath of those who uttered it came fresh from Trafalgar !
Pinto, the captain of the guard, inquired the purport of
their songs, and was told by a Scotchman at the grates that
they were " the war-cries of Britain and America, and that
the Californians, Mexicans, and the rest of the Spanish
creation, had better vote themselves asses and devils before
those nations forced the idea into them from the muzzles of
their rifles !"
This Pinto was a small pattern even of a coward, but what
there was of him one could not doubt was the genuine article.
He had a small narrow head, very black stiff hair, a long thin
nose with a sharp pendant point ; small snakish eyes, very
near neighbors, and always peering out at the corners of the
sockets ; a very slender sharp chin, with a villanous tuft of
bristles on the under lip ; a dark swarthy complexion burnish
ed with the grin of an idiotic hyena. Who would not expect
such an animal to be frightened at the carnage songs of the
parent of nations and her firstborn child ! He did fear, the
miniature scoundrel ! He had been one of the principle in
stigators of this barbarity, and if he believed in the recupe
rative energies of prostrated justice he had reason to tremble.
In his trepidation he- sought the quarters of Jose Castro.
This man was his monster superior. With the general out-
14

88 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
lines of the human frame, he united every lineament of a
thoroughbred ourang-outang : as, very long arms, very large
brawny hands, a very heavy body, and a very contemptible
face, wrinkled and drawn into a broad concentrated scowl
of unsatisfied selfishness.
This dignitary made the rounds of the guard and retired
to his couch, satisfied that he was really what he- modestly
called himself— the Napoleon of Western America ! Pinto
took up his position with great resolution in the shade of an
adobie wall, at a safe distance from the prisons ; and when
I left the ground he was employing his knees in knocking
each other into a stiff stand against unmanly fear. Nothing
else worthy of note occurred during the night.
On the morning of the 22d the governor sent again for
the American. He would not see the messenger. About
nine o'clock, however, he walked down before the prisons
and spoke a word of cheer to their inmates. They were
wretched, but hope was awakened in them by his presence
and fearlessness.
There was evident consternation among the dons. That
American signalling the Don Quixote every morning as she
swept into the harbor, and the idea of a fleet outside, its
commander ashore, communicating with it by a fast-sailing
brig, and that commander defying the governor, breaking
through the guards, conversing with the prisoners, and those
martial songs by night, were ominous circumstances in the
eyes of those contemptible tyrants !
About noon it was reported that the prisoners would have
a trial ! A little advance this ! The government had begun
to yield to its fears, what it would not to its sense of justice.
The next morning, the 23d, the entire standing army, con
sisting of sixteen filthy half-breeds, and a corps of about sixty
volunteers, mustered at the beat of the drum before the pri
sons. Twenty-one of the prisoners were brought out between
the lines, inarched to the governor's house, and seated on the
grass in front of it. They were emaciated and pallid, but re-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 89
solute. The American pushed his way through the crowd
of officers and citizens, seated himself within twelve feet of
the prisoners, and manifested to them by the sincerest com
passion and most resolute acts, that if they died he died with
them. He had agreed with them to appear before the prison
at the middle hour of night, on the twenty-fourth, and go
with them to freedom or a brave death, if they were not fairly
tried and on evidence condemned, or released before the fol
lowing midnight. This promise they felt would be kept.
The trial, as it was called, soon commenced. Each man
was summoned singly from his seat to a lower room in the
governor's house, and called upon to produce his passport.
Most of them replied, that they were arrested in their fields
or worksho'ps, and were not permitted to go to their resi
dences for papers or anything else.
To this the Alcalde who sat in judgment said, " I have
no evidence before me of your lawful right to remain in
California." The next question was, " What do you know of a revo
lutionary movement under Graham V
The reply was, " I know nothing of any such movement
or intention."
" What meant that advertisement for a horse-race, put
forth by Graham?"
" It meant what such advertisements have meant for the
last five years : a wish on the part of Graham to run his
American horse in California."
" Nothing more 1 Nothing more V
This was the form of trial in each case. The only favor
they craved was, that they might have an interpreter who
understood both languages. This was denied them. A
miserable tool of the government, who spoke the English
so badly that he could never make himself understood,
succeeded, by his manner of translating their answers, in
making them confess themselves guilty of high treason, and
other misdemeanors worthy of the bullet.

90 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
After all had passed this ordeal, a Botany Bay Convict, by
the name of Garner, was called in evidence on behalf of the
government. His testimony rsmoved all lingering doubts.
He established the unqualified guilt of all. Graham, in par
ticular, who had been preferred over him as commander Of
the foreign riflemen in Alvarado's revolution, and whom he
had previously attempted to kill, he declared tohave formed a
scheme of ambition, which, had it not been discovered, would
have dug the grave of every Spaniard in California ! ! This
man's testimony was written out and signed by his murderous
hand. It may be in due time a blister on his perjured soul.
The reported confessions of each prisoner were reduced to
writing in the Spanish language. They contained, as I after
ward learned in Mexico, things never said, accounts of acts
never performed, and bequests of property to their persecu
tors, their jailers, and to those, who, on several occasions,
thrust sabres at their hearts when nearly helpless in the dun
geons of Monterey, which I need not say were never made.
Few-of them could read Spanish j and none were permitted to
peruse these documents. They were compelled to sign them,
as poor Morris was, by threats of instant death if they refused.
Thus ended thetrialof one hundred andsixty-odd Americans
and Britons, before a court of Californian Arabs ! What its
judgment would be was the painful question in every mind !
A few of them had been sent to their places of residence with
out arms, or any intimation whether it would be the sublime
pleasure of the villains that they should live or die : the greater
part were remanded to the prisons. And again, while they
sat;stopd,and laid onthemud floors of their cells, and clanked
their fetters and handcuffs, they sang " Hail Columbia "
and "Rule Britannia," as another night of wo passed
away ! That spectre fleet and its commander were the only
hope between them and death. On this they leaned !
On the morning of the twenty-third the drums beat at
early dawn, and the whole military force paraded before the
dungeons. An imposing display was that. The clanking of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 91
rusty swords and scabbards, the jingling of loose gun-locks,
and the right-about-face-forward-march operations of these
bandy-legged, pale-livered, disconsolate sons of Mars, pray
ing to the saints that they might not be annihilated by such ter
rible events, told a story of valorj which future ages ought to
hear with appalled ears ! The times which try men's souls
have always been remarkable in some way; and this day
was chiefly conspicuous for beef and beans. The quantity
of these articles which they devoured at brea'kfast, was in
credible ; and the grease and dirt which they consumed,
the glare and quick twinkling of the eyes for more, and the
panting obesity of their persons when the meal was ended,
indicated great perseverance, if not indomitable bravery.
As in other countries talent is measured by impudence,
moral worth by long faces and stereotyped solemnity of coun
tenance, and rank by the elevation of the nose and the suc
cessful villainy of ancestors, so in California, with the same
unquestionable good sense, do the cavalieros measure their
manliness of character, their bravery in arms, their civil and
social elevation, by the capacity of their stomachs and their
eloquence in boasting. Never were men happier or more
thoroughly self-content than the troops of Monterey at their
beef and beans. The events of The Revolution were dis
cussed with full mouths and laboring throats. Los Espanioles
del Alta California, to wit, every Indian with a drop of Span
ish blood under his filthy skin, Were muy bravos, extremely
brave, and their conduct in the late troubles was second to
nothing recorded since the siege of Mexico under Cortes !
It is said by some one who pretends to know, that the
world generally estimates us by the value we set upon Our
selves. Whether this opinion be founded in truth or not, I
am unable to determine. But certain it is, the Genius of
Glory in these days seems to be in, her dotage. Homer,
Socrates, Luther and Washington, wear her laurels with so
much grace, that the old jade appears to think it a mere
amusement to make immortal men. Accordingly she

J

92 S C E,N ES IN THE PACIFIC.
throws the poet's wreath upon moon-struck rhymsters, the
philosopher's crown upon heads with long hair and dirty
beards, that of the Reformer upon apes and brass-mounted
women, and even tries to make men out of male Californi
ans. Sad mistakes are all these ; and particularly the last.
About ten o'clock the troops were reviewed by Don Jose
Castro. A little after eleven ^ all the prisoners except forty-
six were pardoned. These the government would not libe
rate. They had acted a conspicuous part in Alvarados'
revolution, and were feared as likely to demand for them*-
selves and their companions the fulfilment of the promises
which he had made them. The American had suggested
that they should be sent to the Consuls of their respective
governments at Tepic. A ship which had been chartered
forthat purpose (the Roger Williams, of Boston), was float
ing in the harbor. The doors of the prisons were opened ; the
emaciated tenants came out, chained two and two, hand and
foot, some of them with no clothing except a pair of ragged pan
taloons. The Spaniards had fobbed them not only of their
cattle, horses, mules, and freedom, but also of their wardrobe.
They were* marched towards the shore, clanking their chains.
Poor Graham and Morris were so heavily loaded with irons
that it required four stout Indians to carry them.
The American mingled among them, and dissuaded them
from a contemplated insurrection on ship-board. Three Cal
ifornian women followed the prisoners. They were wives,
and had children. They clung to their husbands and wept
aloud. • Castro ordered them to be driven away with blows.
They were beaten with swords, but would not go. They
led their children, and helped bear the chains that were
galling the bleeding limbs of those whom they loved.
They said, " the soldiers have taken all our horses, cat
tle and property, and now they take you away from us for
ever ! May God take our lives ! Oh, Mary, mother of
God, pray for us !"
As they were going down to the boat, poor old Graham

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 93
seemed entirely bro*ken-hearted. The American said to
him, " Be brave, Graham, be brave ! Let no Tennessean
ever think of yielding in this way. Raise your head and
keep it erect. Once landed at San Bias, you are safe. I
will see you when you land."
" Ah," said Graham," I never can be a man again after A
having these feet bound with irons by a Californian ; never
again ! I could bear to be a prisoner to a brave and decent
people, but to be caught and coOped up, chained andexported
like a tub of lard, by these here scabs of mankind, is mighty
bad! No, I never shall be a man again, Mr.  . Here,
take my hand. We should have been riddled with bullets if
you had not been here, could the rascals have drawn a bead
close enough to hit us! I never shall be a man again!
Irons on the legs of a man who fought for them, who, made
the cowards what they are | With my fifty rifles about me, I
could drive the devils from the whole coast or lay them away
to rot. But I won't think on't. I never x>an be a man again !"
They put him and some others into a boat and pushed off
for the ship. " Farewell, Mr.  , farewell :. but stop,
hold on !.-— have you got money enough to get home withl
I will let you have some in San Bias. But I never shall
be Graham again !"
The boats continued to ply between the ship and the shore
until all were carried on board. The multitude then retired to
the town. - Deep feelings Struggled in every breast at the termi
nation of this affair. Alvarado wasmad that he had not shot
Graham, to whom he owed $2,235 and other obligations ;
those cavalieros who had been rejected by ladies to make way
for foreign suitors, were enraged beyond measure that most
of them had been left in the country. The ladies generally
rejoiced that no blood had been shed ; thewives of those who
had been sent on board the prison-ship, sat on shore beneath
the tree where the cross was erected by Padre Junipero, and
wept upon the necks of theirchildren, until the ship was out
of sight. The American suggested that the town might be

94 BCEllES IN THE rAciric.
taken, and the perpetrators of such outrages be disposed of at
rope's end ; but the proposition was discountenanced by the
residents. The church was opened, and a Te Beum sung
for the deliverance of the country ! ' After this, each class
true to their leading emotions, gathered in knots about town,
and talked' of these strange things till supper separated
them for the night. During the evening some of the offK
cers of government called ~,at Mr. Larkin's, and informed
the American that the . governor had sent the prisoners to
the American and British Consuls at Tepic, via San Bias,
and that the vessel would put into Santa Barbara for pro
visions and other prisoners.
The twenty-fourth morning of April was clear ; the sun
came up the eastern hills on a landscape of sweet things. No
one born and dwelling in the rugged, changing seasons of the
Northcan know, without experiencing, the delights of a cli
mate like that of California. From spring to spring again
all is friendly ; from morning till morning comes again all is
pleasant to breathe and to see ; from, hour to hour the
body feels in the air a balmy blessing ; from moment to
moment the blood leaps vigorously through the frame.
Near eleven o^clock the troops were in motion, and Mr.
Larkin and myself went down to the public green, to see
what might transpire.
We found the green covered with the people kneeling and
crossing themselves, and the priest in full robes performing
high-mass near the door of the governor's dwelling; His
Exeellentissimo' was kneeling with his officers before the
altar as devoutly as if he had been obedient to the com
mandments from his youth till that time. It was shocking
to hear him respond to the prayers for repentance, while
any observer might see the malignity with' which he had
sought the lives of his friends, struggling among the muscles
of his face and burning in his eyes !
The services being ended, the governor retired into his
house. Thanks had beengiven to God forsavingthe country

TRAVEL' S IN THE CALIFORNIAS 95
from danger which never existed, and for protecting the
villains that pretended its existence as an excuse for shed
ding blood.
No other event occurred that day worthy of being no
ticed, except the wives of those poor fellows who were
floating down the coast in the prison-ship went weeping
through the streets, beseeching all they met to go down to
Santa Barbara and bring back their husbands.
I spent my time among the foreigners, who had been let
out of prison, in gathering information relative to the coun
try, which will be given in another part of the volume.
The evening was passed at Mr. Larkin's. We were hap
py, not because we felt no danger around us, for there was
much of it. But we were glad that no more groans came
up from the damp dungeons ! That none of our countrymen
were calling for air, and water, and food, from those infernal
dens ! Alas, for those who were on their way to Mexico
We thought of them sadly ; they might be dying ; but we
called hope to our aid, and believed that better hours would
soon dawn on their misery. More than one hundred of our
countrymen were released from impending death ! Bolts
grated no more ! chains clanked no more on the silent
night ! And we felt in our own persons something of that
returning security to life which sends through the soul of
the most reckless and inexpressible sense of pleasure.
The next morning the green before the governor's house
was graced with a portly effigy of Senor Judas Iscariot !
One ankle out of joint, and other parts disarranged, for the
especial gratification of his inferiors in moral qualities. The
senor was assumed to be dead. His optics glared rather
sorrowfully upon the multitude around him, as if loth to
look the last time on congenial hearts! He held in his
hand a scroll, containing a last will and testament, in which
his several virtues and possesions were bequeathed to vari
ous persons residing in the country.
In the afternoon the American and some other gentlemen
15

96 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
were invited by an English resident to afesta on the shores
of the bay. And being in a mood to seize upon anything to
divert thought from the unpleasant reminiscences of the past
week, we gladly accepted the invitation, without knowing
indeed what a Californian festa might be. Dr. Bale was one
of the guests, and kindly conducted us to the place selected
for the ceremonies. It was among the trees, a short distance
southwest of the anchorage ; a wild, rude spot. The old
trees, which had thrown their branches over the savage before
a white man had touched the shores, were rotting on the
ground, and formed the fuel of our fire ! The ancient rocks
stood around, covered with the moss of ages ! The winds
sang in the trees ! The ringing cadences of the towering
pine, the deep bass of the strong spreading oak, the mellow
alto of the flowering shrubs, the low, soft voice of the
grasses, nature's great iEolian lyre, breathed sweet music !
The old wilderness was there, unshorn, and holy, respond
ing to the songs of birds in the morn of the opening year. •
When we arrrived, half a dozen brunettes were spread
ing cloths upon the grass, and displaying upon them boiled
ham, dried beef, tongue, bread, pies, cigars, and various
kinds of wines, from the vineyards of the country ; so that
afesta proved to be an invitation for us to eat and drink
among a group of joyous children and smiling lasses. Yes,
smiling, hearty Californian lasses. Who is not glad to see
me repeat words that speak of the smiles of women 1 I do
not mean those heart-rending efforts at grinning, which one
so often meets in mechanical society ; but those pulsations
of genuine joy and truth, which come up impulsively from
woman's real nature, shedding on the dwelling-places of the
race the sweetest elements of the social state. It ij that
sunshine of our moral being which beams on our cradles,
on the paths of our childhood, on the stormy skies of mis-'
fortune in the years of manhood, which warms the chilled
heart of age into renewed life, and shines on till sight and
sense are lost in the dark gateway to the after state !

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. j. 97
We ate ^and drank freely. Who could do otherwise? The
mellow laugh of childhood, the holy kindness of maternal
care, the pride of the paternal heart, the love of woman, the
sky and fragrant breezes of a Californian lawn, the open sea,
the giant woodlands, the piping insects, the carolling of a thou
sand birds, the voices of a boundless hospitality, invited us to
do so. The finest dish of all the goodly array of fat things,
the brunette lips excepted, was the roasted mussels. The In
dians in attendance gathered a number of bushels, piled them
upon a large log fire, and in a few minutes presented them to
us, thoroughly cOoked and delicious to the taste. Indeed I
hope for no better fish. They are tender as an oyster, with
as fine flavor ; and the abundance of them is really remarka
ble ! The coast is lined with them.
Our festa ended near sunset. It had been as agreeable as
our hosts' best attentions could render it. The ladies also had
vied with each other to make the occasion happy." But their
gladness was forced. A deep gloom like that which the thun
der-cloud throws over the flowering meadow-land, saddened
their smiles, arrested the laugh half-uttered, bent the figure, and
shaded the warm glow of joy in the eye, with the cold
watchfulness of alarm! Such was the influence of that
prison ship, the last speck of which had been watched, as it
sunk, hull, spars, and streamer, over the bending sea, freight
ed with chains and the misery of fellow-countrymen, that the
heart could not be persuaded into happiness !

CHAPTER VI.
A Ride— Vale of San Carmelo— Indians employed— The Surf— Bay of
San Carmelo — Mission Edifices — Belfrey Bells— Deserted and Sad—
An Indian Lawyer and his Wife—A Speech— Return to Monterey-
Embarkation— Weighing Anchor— An American Tar— Tom's New
Axe— General Training Day— Becomes a Salt — Tom's opinion of the
Land and its Inhabitants — A fine breeze— Panto Conception— Islands—
A calm— A night on deck— Landing at Santa Barbara— The Prison
Ship— El Mission de Santa Barbara— Its Fountains, Tanks, Church,
Pictures and Cemetery — The Prisoners— Taking leave of them.
In the afternoon of the twenty-fifth, three or four Ameri
cans and an English physician rode out on horseback to the
mission of San Carmelb, one league and a half southwesterly
from Monterey. The road leading to it lay over an undulating
country, covered with the growing wild grasses. Its general
aspect much resembled that of the broken lands of Illinois.
The hills, however, were higher, the gravel , of the roads
coarser. The trees were a species of soft, low oak, pine and
birch. A kind of clover and some other species of grasses
crowned every knoll and height. And the odor of that vege
tation ! Incense from the boundless altar of nature.!. The
teeming fields of spring on the rich hill sides, sending up into
the broad sky the sweet perfume of opening leaf and flower.
The glancing flight of the butterfly, the nimble leaps of
the hare, the hurried snort of the startled deer, the half-clad
Indian lounging in the genial sun-light, mottled the view
along the way.
The valley of the mission is a charming one. It comes
down from the north-eastern highlands, accompanied by a

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 99
clear bright stream, to the sea. It is ten miles in length, two
miles wide ,near the ocean, and narrower as it rises among
the lofty ridges. Rio Carmelo winds very much ; and in its
bends are many stately groves, between which lie the for
saken fields of the mission, overgrown with wild grass and
brush. Not entirely forsaken, for here and there is found an
Indian hut, with its tiled roof, mud walls and floor, tenanted,
but falling to decay. The inmates are the spiritual children
of the old Padres, who taught them rude agriculture, archi
tecture, and the Being and worship of God. Since the de
parture of those good men, the fields have been neglected,
and the Indians have sunk into vice and degradation. A sad
thing is it to see the furrow of civilisation turned back ; the
thistle usurping the place of the wheat ; rank weeds choking
the vineyard, and the rose trodden in the dust ! But so it is
in the valley of San Carmelo. The Indians in different sec
tions were planting small plats of beans and maize. A mule
and an ox yoked together were used for draught.
We rode to the water-side to look at the surf. It was a
glorious sight that . heaving up of the Great Deep on the
land ! The shore was bold and lined with huge buried reefs.
On these the swells, walls of bending water ten feet in
height, dashed, broke, roared and died — a sheet of quarrelling
foam — over the beach for miles around the bay. And as each
wave retired, that beach of shells reduced to dust by the
battering sea, sent up its countless hues, from pearly white to
the richest violet, dancing and trembling over the green lawn
on which we stood. This bay of San Carmelo is a large
open bight, so filled with sunken rocks and sand bars, and so
exposed to the winds from the south-west, as to be useless for
a harbor. But it is a wild and grand thing to look out upon
in storm or calm. On the south, rude rocks, old trees and
desert hillocks bound it. On the north the lofty pines crowd
down to its billows. On the north-west opens the valley of
the missions. Over all its blue waters rave the surges, if the
winds be up ; or if still, in come the great swells, alive with

100 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
porpoise and seal, and bellow and die on the shore of San
Carmelo. The mission buildings are situated on the north side of the
valley near the sea. They stand on elevated ground, which
overlooks the bay and seven or eight miles of the vale.
They were inhabited by a family of half-breeds, who kept
the keys of the church. The edifices are built around a
square area of half an acre. On the west, south, and east
sides of it, are the Indian houses with their ruined walls, scal
loped tile roofs, clay floors and open unglazed windows. On
the north side are the church, the cells and dining hall of the
Padres. The latter is about forty feet by twenty, lighted by
open spaces in the outer wall, grated with handsomely turned
wooden bars, and guarded by plank shutters, swinging inside.
At the west end of this room is a small opening through
which the food was passed from the kitchen. On the north
side and east end are four doors opening into the cells of
the friars. Everything appeared forsaken and undesirable.
And yet I could not forbear a degree of veneration for those
ancient closets of devotion ; those resting-places of the way
farer from the desert ; those temples of hospitality and prayer,
erected by that band of excellent and daring men, who
founded the Californian missions, and engraved on the heart of
that remote wilderness, the features of civilisation and the
name of God.
There was an outside stairway to the tower of the church.
We ascended it and beheld the broken hills, the vales and the
great heaving sea, with its monsters diving and blowing;
and heard it sounding loudly far and near. We saw the
ruined mission of San Carmelo, and the forsaken Indians
strolling over its grounds ! On the timbers over head, hung
six bells of different sizes— three of them cracked and tone
less. Formerly one of these rang to meals, to work, and
rest ; and the others to the various services of the Catholic
faith. Dr. Bale informed us, such was the regularity of these
establishments that the laboring animals stopped in the road or

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 101
furrow, whenever the bells called the Indian to his duties.
But prayers are no longer heard in San Carmelo ; the tower
no longer commands obedience to God; the buildings are
crumbling to dust ; the rank grass is crowding its courts ; the
low moss is creeping over its gaping walls ; and the ox and
mule are running wild on its hills.
The walls of the church are of stone masonry; the roof
of brick tiles. The whole structure is somewhat lofty,
and looks down upon the surrounding scenery, like an old
baronial castle, from which the chase, the tournament, and
the reign of beauty have departed. An oaken arm-chair,
brown and marred with age, stood on the piazza, proclaiming
to our lady of Guarlaloupe and a group of saints rudely
sketched upon the walls, that Carmelo was deserted by living
men. My respect for the profession of " glorious uncertainties,"
will not permit me to leave this valley without introducing to
the kind regards of the reader a brother lawyer. He lived
on the banks of the Carmelo in a little mud hut, surrounded
by some beautiful fields under good cultivation. His stock
consisted of a number of tame cows, a few goats, uncounted
flocks of domestic fowls, and a dozen dogs. When about a
quarter of a mile distant, the dogs opened their artillery in a
running fire upon us ; the cocks flew upon the fences and crow
ed terribly ; the pullets cackled ; and altogether, the commotion
surprised our horses into a general snort, and ourselves into a
laugh, prolonged and loud as our lungs could sustain, at such
a welcome to the residence of the only professional lawyer in
the Californias !
We rode up briskly in the midst of this cackling, crowing
and barking, and dismounted before the door of a tolerably
comfortable hut, in the standing presence of the brown, flat-
nosed, broad-cheeked, ragged Indian Esquire. His head was
bare, his leathern pants full of holes and glazed with grease,
his blanket hung in tatters. His wife hobbled out as blind as
a fire-dog, and decrepid with years and hard labor. One or

102 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
two other Indians stood about among the hens and ducks,
grinning and squinting at us in much wonder and humility !
Such was the group on the hen-dog-Indian side of the
scene. Ourselves occupied the other.
We stood at our horses' necks, one hand on the rein, and
awaited something, we knew not what. The Esquire rolled
his little black eyes in delight to see us ; put one hand on the
hip, and stood on one leg, and then changed into an opposite
position ; shaking and giggling with joy meanwhile, and ap
parently not knowing where to begin to entertain either. him
self or us. At length, Dr. Bale came to his relief, by referring
to the fact that he owned more land before the mission was'
founded, than he now seemed to enjoy. At this he took fire,
and went into a dissertation on the titles of the Padres and
Indians; the substance of which, I learned from the Doctor,
was, that the Padres had taken possession of the valley about
forty years before, had taught the Indians to work and pray,
had given a portion of his lands to other Indians, and when
civil troubles came, had killed most of the cattle and sold the
hides and tallow to ships, for hard dollars, and with bags of
these dollars left the country and the Indians who had earned
them. " There," said he, pointing to his blind wife, " is all
they have left me of my wife ; she worked hard and is blind ;
and these little fields are all they have left me of my broad
lands." His violent gesticulation and tone of voice led me to the
belief that he was tinctured with mania. The poor fellow
and his wife excited our commiseration deeply, and I cannot
remember them, even now, without reviving the pity I felt for
the " Indian lawyer" and his poor blind wife, tottering about
her lowly hut.
From these premises we turned rein for Monterey. Our -
Californian steeds laid hoof to the rough road in a manner wor
thy their Arabian sires. Speed, speed ! Backward the gravel
flew from their willing feet, as we mounted the heights.
Gully and rock were leaped with a joyful neigh ! We reached

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 103
the highland when the sun was a hand's breadth above the
ocean. His burning farewell lay on the verdant hill-tops.
Onward ! speed onward ! The Bay is before us ; its crested
billows are gilded, like fretted gold, with rays from the uppe.
rim of the sinking sun !
On the twenty-eighth of April the Don Quixote had com
pleted her business with P. I. Farnham & Co.'s ship Alciope,
and was ready for sea. Captain Paty had laid in a generous
supply of fresh beef, vegetables, and other comforts for his
passengers ; the foreign residents had presented the American
with many little tokens of regard, in the form of fruits, wines,
&c, to make the voyage comfortable.
Eleven o'clock, A. M., we took leave of our countrymen,
and others of the Saxon blood, on the rock where the prison
ers' chains had lately clanked, and shoved off for the ship.
One of the unpleasant circumstances attending journeys in
wild and dangerous countries, is, the parting from persons of
kindred feelings with whom we have wept or rejoiced. Many
who had suffered in Monterey were still there. They had es
caped an apparently certain doom, and I had felt keenly every
shade which progressive events cast on their fate, or lifted from
their hopes of being saved from the death of felons. They were
saved ! They were glad ! But the fear of returning tyranny
still hung over them. The same malignity held the reins of
power ; and the dungeon and bullet were under the control of
the same demons. It was hard parting with those brave
and abused men. The throats of villains could be made to
bleed ! The walls of justice and mercy could be reared
around the social state in California. ..The acting government
could have raised no force to prevent it. Britons and Ameri
cans could have done it ; and the halter been made to claim
its own. But that prison-ship and my hearth called me.
" On board !" " On board !" Our boat lies under the lee
of the good barque Don Quixote ; the ropes of- the gangway
are seized ; and we stand on deck. " Man the windlass ;'
" heave the anchor, cheerily, boys," is ordered and done.
16

104 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
This is always a cheering time on ship-board. " Heave
ahoy ;" and the old salt's eye brightens, his step quickens, and
his voice rings gladly, as link after link of the ponderous cable
tumbles aboard, till the flukes of the anchor lie high on the
bows, and the ship is given to her helm and the breeze.
The wind, the sea, and good planks between him and the
bottom, and the stars and stripes at the mizen, are the
substantial comforts of an American tar. Supplied with these
and a clear sweep from the headlands, he will leave the
shore without a feeling that it will ever be his wish to return.
Indeed, the real sailor, he who has wound every yarn of his
happy hours around the windlass, despises the land. We had
in the Don Quixote an example of this kind. He was a tall,
slabsided Yankee, from the State of Maine ; with a hand like "
a grappling-iron, hung to a mass of shoulder and chest that
would have been formidable among buffalo. His deck name
was Tom ; to which the adjective long, was sometimes pre
fixed, as he explained it, " in order to add a fathom to its
scund." When sixteen years of age, he had heard that Maine was
noted far abroad for its long mortals and heavy fists ; and
dreamed that he was not so deficient in these qualities as to
be excluded from the distinction which might arise from them.
He therefore determined to avail himself of the first favora
ble occasion for reaping the harvest of that notoriety to which
he seemed to be born. Nor did he wait an unpleasant length
of time for such an opportunity. His father returned home
one evening with a new axe, purchased for Tom's especial
use, in the lumber forest. It was the night previous to " the
General Training-day," at Portland ; and he proposed, as the
morrow would be a leisure day, that Tom should test the
metal of his axe, in cutting away a dry hemlock tree which
had fallen across the public road. A mere suggestion from the
father was the law of his household. Tom, therefore, ate his
breakfast, next morning, with becoming submissiveness, and
about seven o'clock struck his new axe into the dry hemlock.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 105
It rose, fell, and clinked in the hard knots ; and occasionally
sinking into the Avood a depth sufficient to hold without his
aid, left him at liberty to chew his tobacco, and think of his
condition. The neighboring lads came riding past. They jeered him
for his want of spirit, once, again, a third time, and onward,
until Tom began to think that his situation was not quite so
agreeable as it would be, if he, also, with a pistareen in his
pocket, were on his way to the gingerbread carts of the pa
rade ground. To be kept at work on General Training-day,
was at war with all precedent; that was a holy day for
young people throughout all the land of johnny-cakes. A
little reflection, therefore, convinced him that his father's re
quirement was somewhat unkind ; a little more thought and
considerable love of gingerbread, demonstrated that chopping
wood on that day was not to be done by Long Tom Sassa
fras ; and depositing his axe in the corn-house, he went to
the General Training, received a flogging from his father in
the presence of an auctioneer of Yankee Notions, shipped on
board a lumber sloop bound for Boston, and from that time
became a Salt.
Tom considered the land well nigh a nuisance. It had a
few points of value. It was useful as a hiding-place from a
storm ; useful as a hospital for " a fresh" to cure the scurvy ;
as a convenient substitute for a " log" to show when the
voyage is ended ; as a lumber yard for the wherewithal to
build keels ; and as a place in which small fish may rendez
vous. But the sea was a greater part of the Globe; the
home of freemen ; where they have a plenty of sound air to
breathe, and nothing but the will of Heaven to curtail their
movements. " On the land it is otherwise. One's tarpaulin
is knocked off at every second step on their brick-decked
gangways ; every lubber in straps and tights who sees fit to
pass before you can up helm, runs into you, carries away your
bowsprit, and d  nsyour eyes because you could not luff into
the walls of a building to give him lee-way. And then the

106 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
land is all mud and reefs ; everything upon it is dirty ; the
Ladies, God knows I love the Ladies and pity them, can't
keep themselves tidy. I've seen many a brace of them that
required a fortnight's holy-stoning to get down to their natu
ral color. They are obliged to paint themselves to cover up
the dirt and keep from looking weather-beaten. I never
knew a sensible sailor that wasn't glad to leave the land for
the glorious old sea. Their ideas, those land lubbers, about
what is comfortable and beautiful, are not worth a ball of
spunyarn. They talk to you about the dangers of the sea,
just as if there was no lee coast to run one's head and toes
against on the land ; about the shady groves on a May-day,
just as if there were no May-day shade under the brave old
canvass of Neptune; and about the purling brooks and the
music of birds, just as if there were neither water at sea, nor
any albatross to sail and scream in the sun, nor happy petrels
to sing in the storm. And about being buried in the sea!
This they think is a dreadful thing ! They thrust their eyes
half out of their heads when you tell them it is better to be
eaten clean up by a decent shark, than to be stuffed away a
few feet under ground among toads and worms and other
varmints ! And if you tell them that when a fellow dies al
sea, they sew him up in a strong bit' of canvas, and hang a
weight to his feet, read prayers over him and drop hire
solemnly into the ocean, and he goes down into the clear clear
water, two or three miles perhaps, and there sleeps higr
above the bottom, high above dirt and worms, the lubber?
think he is out of the latitude of the resurrection and Heaven
and all. I am for the sea. I would not mind shipping on
the quarter-deck a voyage or two, to see how it would seem
to whistle the boys into the top-gallant stays in a dead north
easter. But I should want to be before the mast. Jffihat's
the home for me, boys."
" Haul taut the weather main brace there" !
" Aye, aye, sir ;" and away skipped our Maine boy to his
duty.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 107
We had a fine breeze from the time we weighed, till twelve
o'clock on the twenty-ninth, when the wind died gradually
away to a calm. During the night we lay off Punto Con-
cepcion ; a rough ragged point of land forty miles north-west
of Santa Barbara. On the thirtieth, a light breeze bore us
early in the morning past San Miguel. This is an island,
about fifteen miles from the coast. It is ten miles in circum
ference, with a rocky, barren and dry surface, marked here and
there with a few fruitful spots and streams of water. At
nine o'clock we were off Santa Rosa ; an island about the
same distance from the land, twenty miles in circumference,
piled with lofty barren hills, interspersed with a few forests
and fertile districts. Next came Santa Cruz; an oblong
island forty miles in circumference, with some woodlands and
fruitful vales. Farther off shore and southward, are the
islands of Santa Barbara, San Nicholas and San Clemente.
They lie in a line running south-east and north-west, and
form the outer wall of the roadstead, called the Canal de
Santa Barbara. These islands have much high land, com
posed of dark shining rocks, apparently of volcanic origin.
They are partially covered with trees, but a greater portion
of their surface is barren sands and rocks. They are densely
populated with goats.
Near night a calm came on, and our sails, after flapping
awhile, hung lifeless upon the spars. This was a very annoy
ing circumstance. All on board felt extremely anxious to be
in Santa Barbara that night lest the prison-ship should leave
before we arrived. About twelve o'clock, however, a slight
breeze sprang up, which bore us along two knots the
hour. The air was so bland on deck that I chose a berth
among some loose sails in the long boat, in preference to the
heated^cabin. It was a pure night. No vapors obscured the
sky. No harsh winds disturbed the waters. Every living
thing seemed reposing and smiling in its dreams of joy. The
birds on the land and water should be excepted. They were

108 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
twittering softly one to another, coursing through the air and
marshalling and gabbling among the waves, as if keeping
vigil over the slumbers of Nature !
The coast from Monterey to the Canal de Santa Barbara is
broken into elevated hills, fringed with forests of pine and oak,
and covered with the wild grasses. From these flow many
valuable little streams, which gurgle and plash down deep
and verdant ravines to the sea. . It is a beautiful wilderness ;
a country for the wild horse, the mighty grisly bear, the un-
domesticated cattle of a thousand hills ; a blithe domain for
the human race, when true and valiant men shall govern it.
The first sound that fell upon my ear on the first day of
May, was the rippling of the water at the ship's side. She
was moving slowly down the Canal de Santa Barbara. At
nine o'clock we cast anchor before the town, lowered .the
boat and shot away to the beach. The prison-ship was lying
at anchor in the roadstead ! Our countrymen were incarce
rated at the mission 1 We might be of some service to them ;
and that expectation gave us all infinite pleasure, in being
again in their neighborhood.
Santa Barbara is situated on an inclined plane, which rises
gradually from the sea side to a range of picturesque high
lands, three and a half miles from the sea. The town itself is
three quarters of a mile from the landing. The houses are
chiefly built in the Spanish mode, adobie walls, and roofs of tile.
Thesetiles are made of clay, fashioned into half cylinders,
and burned like brick. In using them, the first layer is placed
hollow side up ; the second inversely, so as to lock over the
first. Their ends overlap each other as common shingles do.
This roofing serves very well in dry weather. But when the
driving southwesters of the winter season come on, it affords
a poor shelter. Very few of the houses have glass windows.
Open spaces in the walls, protected with bars of Wood, and
plank shutters, serve instead. Mr. A. B. Thompson, a wealthy
and hospitable American merchant, has erected a residence

TRAVELS IN THE CAL FORNIAS. 109
in the centre of the town, which bears very striking testimo
ny to his being a civilized man.
There is an old Catholic mission, one mile and three
quarters above the town, called El Mission de Santa Barbara.
The church itself is a stone edifice, with two towers on the
end towards the town, and a high gable between them. The
friars complimented Father Time, by painting on the latter
something in the shape of a clock dial. In the towers are
hung a number of rich toned bells, brought from old Spain
nearly a hundred years ago. The roof is covered with burnt
clay tiles, laid in cement. The residence of the Padres, also
built of stone, forms a wing with the church towards the sea.
The prisons form another, towards the highlands. Hard by
are clusters of Indian huts, constructed of adobies and tile,
standing in rows, with" streets between.
( The old Padres seem to have united with their missionary
zeal a strong sense of comfort and taste. They laid off a
beautiful garden, a few rods from the church, surrounded it with
a high substantial fence of stone laid in Roman cement, and
planted it with limes, almonds, apricots, peaches, apples,
pears, quinces, &c, which are now annually yielding their
several fruits in abundance. Before the church they erected
a series of concentric urn fountains, ten feet in height, from
the top of which the pure liquid bursts, and falls from one to
another, till it reaches a large pool at the base ; from this it
is led off a short distance to the statue of a grisly bear, from
whose mouth it is ejected into a reservoir of solid masonry,
six feet wide and seventy long. From the pool at the base
of the urn fountains water is taken for drinking and household
Use. The long reservoir is the theatre of the battling,
plashing, laughing and scolding of the washing-day. Around
these fountains are solid, cemented stone pavements, and ducts
to carry off the surplus water. Nothing of the kind can be in
better taste, more substantial, or useful.
Above the church and its cloisters, they brought the water
17

HO SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
around the brow of a green hill, in an open stone aqueduct,
a rapid, noisy rivulet, to a square reservoir of beautiful ma
sonry. Below, and adjoining this, are the ruins of the Pa
dres' grist-mill. Nothing is left of its interior structure, but
the large oaken ridgepole. Near the aqueduct which car
ries the water into the reservoir of the "mills, stands a small
stone edifice ten feet in length by six in width. This is
the bath. Over the door, outside, is the representation of a
lion's head, from which pours a beautiful jet of water. This
little structure is in a good state of preservation. A cross sur
mounts it, as, indeed, it does everything used by the Catholic
missionaries of these wilderness regions. Below the ruins of
the grist-mill is another tank one hundred and twenty-feet
square, by twenty deep, constructed likethe one above. In
this was collected water for supplying the fountains, irrigating
the grounds below, and for the propulsion of different kinds
of machinery. Below the mission was the tan-yard, to which
the water was carried in an aqueduct, built on the top of a
stone wall, from four to six feet high. Here was manufac
tured the leather used in making harnesses, saddles, bridles,
and Indian clothing. They cultivated large tracts of land with
maize, wheat, oats, peas, potatoes, beans, and grapes. Their
old vineyards still cover the hill-sides. When the mission
was at the height of its prosperity, there were several hun
dred Indians laboring in its fields, and many thousands of cat
tle and horses grazing in -its pastures. But its splendor has
departed, and with it its usefulness. The Indians who were
made comfortable on these premises, are now squalid and mise
rable. The fields are a waste! Nothing but the church
retains its ancient appearance. We will enter and describe
its interior. It is one hundred and sixty feet long by sixty in
width. Its walls are eight feet in thickness. The height of
the nave is forty feet. On the wall, to the right, hangs a
picture representing a king and a monk up to their middle in
the flames of purgatory Their posture is that of prayer and

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. Ill
penitence ; but their faces do not indicate any decided con
sciousness of the blistering foothold on which/ they stand.
On the contrary, they wear rather the quiet aspect of persons
who love their ease, and have an indolent kind of pleasure in
the scenes around them. On the other side, near the door of
the confessional, is a picture of Hell. The Devil and his staff
are represented in active service. The flames of his furnace
are curling around his victims, with a broad red glare, that
would have driven Titian to madness. The old Monarch
himself appears hotly engaged in wrapping serpents of fire
around a beautiful female figure, and his subalterns, with flam
ing tridents, are casting torments on others, whose sins are
worthy of less honorable notice. Immediately before the
altar is a trap-door, opening into the vaults, where are buried
the missionary Padres. Over the altar are many rich images
of the saints. Among them is that of San Francisco, the
patron of the missions of Upper California. Three silver
candlesticks, six feet high, and a silver crucifix of the same
height, with a golden image of the Saviour suspended on it,
stand within the chancel. To the left of the altar is the sa
cristy, or priest's dressing-room. It is eighteen feet square,
splendidly carpeted, and furnished with a wardrobe, chairs,
mirrors, tables, ottoman, &c.
In an adjoining room of the same size are kept the para
phernalia of worship. Among these are a receptacle of the
host, of massive gold in pyramidal form, and weighing at
least ten pounds avoirdupois, and a convex lens set in a block
of gold, weighing a number of pounds, through which, on cer
tain occasions, the light is thrown so as to give the appearance
of an eye of consuming fire.
A door in the eastern wall of the church leads from the
foot of the chancel to the cemetery. It is a small piece of
ground enclosed by a high wall, and consecrated to the burial
of those Indians who die in the faith of the Catholic Church.
It is curiously arranged. Walls of solid masonry, six feet

112 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
apart, are sunk six feet in depth, -and to a level with the sur
face Between these the dead are buried in such manner that
their feet touch one wall and their heads the other. These
grounds have been long since filled. In order, however, that
no Christian Indian may be buried in a less holy place, the
bones, after the flesh has decayed, are exhumed and deposited
in a little building on one corner of the premises. I entered
this. Three or four cartrloads of skulls, ribs, spines, leg-bones,
arm-bones &c, lay in one corner. Beside them stood two
hand-hearses with a small cross attached to each. About the
walls hung the mould of death !
On the first of May the American made application for
permission to see the prisoners, and was refused. He had
heard that they were in want of food, and proposed to supply
them ; but was forbidden by Jose Castro, the officer in charge.
The prison-ship had arrived at Santa Barbara on the twenty-
fifth of April, and landed forty-one of the prisoners. Four
others were retained on board to work. These forty-one men,
during the whole passage from Monterey, had been chained to
long bars of iron passing transversely across the hold of the
ship. They were not permitted to go on deck, nor even to
stand on their feet. A bucket was occasionally passed about
for particular purposes, but so seldom as to be of little use.
They were furnished with a mere morsel of food, and that of
the worst quality. Of water, they had scarcely enough to
prevent death from thirst ; and so small and close was the
place in which they were chained that it was not uncommon
for the more debilitated to faint and lie some time in a lifeless
state. When they landed, many of them had become so
weak that they could not get out of the boat without aid.
Their companions in chains assisted them, although threaten
ed with instant death if they did so. After being set ashore,
they were marched in the midst of drawn swords and fixed
bayonets, dragging their schains around bleeding limbs, one
mile and three-quarters, to the mission' of Santa Barbara!

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 113
Here they were put into a single room of the mission prisons,
without floor or means of ventilation. The bottom of the
cell was soft mud ! In this damp dungeon, without food or
water, these poor fellows remained two days and nights !
They had not even straw on which to sleep !
At the end of this time it coming to the ears of the Friar in
charge of the mission, that one of them was dying of hunger
and thirst, he repaired to the prison and inquired of Pinto, the
corporal of the guard, if such were the fact ! The miniature
monster answered, that he did not know. The Friar replied,
" are you an officer and a Catholic, and do not know the state
of your prisoners! You, sir, are an officer of to-day, and
should not be one to-morrow." The good man entered
the cell; found one of the Englishmen speechless ; admin
istered baptism, and removed him to the house of a kind
family, where I found him on my arrival ; still speechless and
incapable of motion. The Friar extended his kindness to the
other prisoners. He ordered Castro to furnish them food
and water. But the villain, evading so far as he was able,
gave them barely enough of each to tantalize them, until the
arrival of the American in the Don Quixote; when that
fleet, laying off the coast, commanded by such a man, charm
ed his benevolence and mercy into activity. From the first
of May, therefore, they had food and water, and were per
mitted to take the air and bathe daily.
On the fourth, the American was permitted to see the prison
ers. They had been scrubbing, themselves at the great tank ;
and were allowed, at his suggestion, to take their dinner in the
open air. They had evidently suffered exceedingly since
they left Monterey ; for their countenances had lost the
little color which the dungeons of that place had left them.
Their hands looked skeleton-wise ; their eyes were deeply
sunken in their sockets ; they tottered when they walked !
Poor men ! For no other fault than their Anglo-Saxon
blood, they fared like felons ! They had a long voyage, and
slavery in the mines of Mexico before them, and were sad

114 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
They asked the American if he would lead them in an attack
upon the guard. But he pointed out the hopelessness of such
an attempt in their enfeebled condition, and comforted them
with the reiterated assurance that he would meet them at San
Bias. While this conversation was going on their dinner ar
rived. The first course consisted of batter cakes, called
tortillas, with a Small quantity of; boiled beef hock. A sad
pittance, and of the meanest quality. But one of them told
the American with much pleasantry, that it was an attempt
to surprise him with the richness of their fare ! The next
course was a soup. I stood by the kettle while they dipped
and ate it. As they approached the bottom of the vessel
they hauled up two old cloths of the most filthy description,
besides other things which it would ill become me to name!
They ate no more ! Starvation itself lost its appetite at such
a spectacle ! The American remonstrated with the officer in
charge for allowing such baseness. The fellow promised.
But why speak of a Spaniard's promise 1 It can be likened
to nothing so well as his justice. Both are as unreliable to
one in his power, as the thunder-cloud at night is, for light
to him who treads on precipices !
As this was the last interview which we expected to have
with the prisoners before they would leave California, it was
suggested that they should write to their friends at home. To
this they gladly assented. We therefore furnished them with
implements for that purpose. But the jealous tyrants in
charge saw fit to prohibit this last, consolation of the doom
ed ! While, however, the villains were engaged in consulta*.
tion about it, I took their names and places of residence, and
promised if they should be executed, or sent to the Mexican
mines, to give their friends the sorrowful intelligence of their
fate. We now took leave of them. As we shook them by the
hand their tears flowed freely. One said, write to my sister
m Maine ; another, write to my mother in Boston ; another,

¦ TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 115
write to my uncle in London, arid he will inform my parents;
another said write to my wife in *******. Her heart is al
ready broken by my abandonment Another tried to speak
of his home ; but grief choked his utterance. . Graham was
himself again. That hardy and high-toned energy of charac
ter which nature had given him, seemed to rise over mis
fortune, as his corporeal powers decreased. He was greatly
enfeebled by his sufferings, and thought he might die on the
passage to San Bias. " But," said he, " I reckon these vil
lains will see me die rike a man. And if I do die, I wish you
to go to Tennessee ad Kentucky, and tell the boys of our
sufferings. My bn es on the stake, their rifles will make
spots on their vile carcases. Two hundred Tennessee rifle
men could take * e country ; and it's a mighty pity it should
be held by a set ^f vagabonds who don't regard the honor of
God or the rights of men. I have been here now seven
years ; have always been a peaceable man, except when I took
part with the Californians against the tyranny of Govern
ment officers sent up from Mexico. And now I am lassooed
like a bear for slaughter or bondage, by these very men
whose lives and property myself and friends saved. Well,
Graham may live to prime a rifle again ! If he does, it will
be in California ! Farewell to you. .. I hope we shall meet
in Mexico." The old man brushed a tear from his weather-
beaten generous face, and we left him.
The American repeated his visit to the sick Englishman.
He had neither ate, drank, nor spoken. His limbs were en
tirely cold and motionless ; fast sinking. The ladies in at
tendance were very compassionate, and bestowed on him
every kindness he was capable of receiving. Yet how inhu
man the power which, calling itself a Government, authorises
such murders ! The halter which swings at the biddinc of a
civil tribunal, the axe which flashes along the grooves of the
guillotine, have their horrors ; and the head picked up by
the mob and shown while life yet speaks from the eyes, and
the dying love of Freedom still clothes the countenance,

116 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC*
shocks human forbearance ! But to be killed by inches, to
be sent to the arms of death by the long agonies of sthirst and
famine, for no crime save that of being an American or
Briton, is a sacrifice at which malice itself in its soberer mo
ments shudders and turns pale. So was this man dying. He
breathed heavily. One of Castro's officers came in, and re
marking that he was undoubtedly a feeble man, kissed his
hand gallantly to the ladies and retired.
The evening was spent with Mrs. J. A. Jones, the Califor
nian spouse of the former American Consul at the Hawaian
Islands, and her sisters. A stroll, a i 'e-a-tete, and the sweet
guitar ! The air was balmy ; the smileb -ere deeply sympathiz
ing ; the laugh savored richly of the c arest impulses of the
soul ; the music was the warm brea of the great living
principle of the best affections. All btyond was barbarism
and wilderness ! The vast pampas, the unexplored' streams,
the unpruned forests, the growling hosts of beasts that war
with life and gnaw each other's bones ; the roaring seas; the
wild men, women and children, unlocated, homeless, — the
untamed fields of earth and the deserts of the human heart lay
outside ; within was our little company. Will the reader tarry
here awhile and listen to tales of olden times ] They tell of
heroic deeds, of martyrdoms, and glorious conquests. They
will bringbacktheeventsofburied years; willshowfhe deeds of >
those who acted here and died; and as the -scene moves on,
this charming land, with all its countless beauties and its grey
and noiseless wastes, will appear.

CHAPTER VII.
An Incomparable Wilderness — A Strange Period — Phrenzy — An Indan
Fire — Gentlemen by the Grace of God versus Gentlemen by the Grace of
Pelf— A Sight of a Great Sea— The first Voyage around theEarth— A Sur
render — Victims— Fleet — Voyage — Another Voyage — Murder — Mas
sacre — Another Voyage — Shipwreck — Beaten to death in the surf — The
Dead and their Requiem — Gathered at their Ancient Altars — A Return —
Another Voyage — An Arrival from a Ten Years' tramp among the Sav
ages — An Expedition by Sea and Land — Death of the Discoverer of
California. Any part of the earth with its forests, its native grasses,
herbs, flowers, streams and animals, unmolested by the trans
forming powers of that race which derives a livelihood from
agriculture, commerce, and their attendant handicrafts, is a
spectacle of great interest. The seasons as they come and
go — the spring with its rich blossoms and leaves — the sum
mer with its fulness of vigor — the autumn with its dropping
fruits — and the winter, that Sabbath of the year, when na
ture rests from her toil — all bring to the old wilderness un
numbered charms. But who can portray them ? They are
so closely grouped, so richly tinted, so mellow, so sacred and
grand, that a long life is required to perceive them. And I
often think, if we should study the ancient woods and tower
ing rocks, and the countless beauties among them, through
all our days as we do in childhood, we should be drawn nearer
to virtue and to God !
California is an incomparable wilderness. It differs from
that which overhung the Pilgrims of New England. That was
a forest broken only by the streams and the beautiful lakes in
which the Indian angled for his food. This is a wilderness
of groves and lawns, broken by deep and rich ravines, sepa-

118 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
rated from each other by broad, and wild wastes. Along the
ocean is a world of vegetable beauty ; on the sides of the
mountains are the mightiest trees of the earth; on the heights
are the eternal snows, lighted by volcanic fires ! But this is not
the place to describe the features of this remarkable country. I
have said there is a tale of olden times connected with it and
its people, which must first be given. A strange period in
the history of man is that, in which the Californias became
known to Europeans. The latter years of the fifteenth, and
the first of the sixteenth century, embrace it. It is a barba
rous era of human energy— not the energy of well-directed
reason— but of that recuperative force of human nature which
for centuries bends under ignorance and inaction, and then,
like some central spark, ignites the mass, and flows forth over
every opposing obstacle.
The attempt to take Palestine from the Infidels has called
out the combating and religious faculties in conjunction. Vene
ration for the Church and its rites is the ruling idea ; the cross is
transferred from the cathedral to the field of battle, and with so
lemn hymns to God the people of Europe march to their graves
on the desecrated plains of Jerusalem. This religious battling
has an end ; but its influence on the minds of the people has
been immense. They have wrapped their faith around their
lances ; turned from commerce, the subjugation of the soil, and
general industry, to war upon opinions — to an unsettled state
of fanatical vagabondism, which turns the world loose upon
itself in a religious phrenzy that is forced to seek an outlet
among the waves of the western seas.
Half the solid land of the globe with its boundless forests,
its Amazon and Mississippi Rivers, its mountain ranges, its
unnumbered forms of animal life, its savage infidels— all its
vastness, beauty and gold, catches the restless fancy of the age,
and Columbus is among its sea-weed — sees the light of the
Indian's evening fire, and invites the enthusiasm of the Old
World to the New. It comes. It is love of wealth, power,
and faith !

Pizarro.— P. 119.

Cortes.— P. 1 19.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 119
Venice, Genoa and Florence are bringing overland, from
the East Indies, so much wealth, that kings are tributary to
them. The palaces of the merchant princes outvie those of
the cut-throats Royal by the Grace of God. And the lead
ing cord of events now is, to find a shorter route to the silks of
Hindostan. For in this lies the possibility that these Grace
of God gentlemen may rid themselves of their unpleasant
dependence upon the coffers, navies and armies, of these free
States. Portugal, Spain, France, England,- enter the lists of
this" great Tournament of El Dorado. The prize sought to
be wrested from the hand of Dame Fortune is, a water pas
sage through the American Continent, by which the ships of
the discovering nation may reach the East Indies. Columbus,
Balboa and Cortez on the part of Spain, seek it along the
Shores of the Gulf of Mexico ; but the Continent spreads
itself an everywhere present barrier to their hopes. This
Vasco Nunnez de Balboa in 1513 is in the Gulf of Uraba;
and an Indian chief called Panquiaca conducts him-'over
the Cordilleras range of the Isthmus Darien, to Michaelmas
Gulf on the Pacific. The Great Pacific Ocean is first seen
by this man. His name is written^among the heroes of those
benighted years. It is dyed in the blood of many thousand
slaughtered Indians. He leads Pizarro to the foul murder of
the Incas ! He opens the arteries of Guatimala ! In 1519,
Fernando Magellano, in the service of Portugal, discovers
the Strait which bears his name, sails across the South Pacific,
and touches at the Ladrone and Philippine islands. Among
the latter group himself and many of his companions perish.
Juan Sebastian del Cano succeeds to the command, traverses
the Indian Ocean, doubles the Cape of Good Hope, and
moors safely on his native shore. Two passages to the East
Indies have now been discovered, and the earth for the first
time circumnavigated in 1522. The Pacific has been seen at
Darien, and ploughed in,the Antarctic latitude. But its north
ern parts are yet unexplored. Hernando Cortez, the student
of Salamanca, the magistrate < of San Diego de Cuba, the

U20 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
murderer of Montezuma and Guatimozin, the slender, five
feet seven inch conqueror of Mexico, undertakes this.
On the thirteenth of August, 1521, Mexico, surrenders to
Cortez, and the King of Mechoacan, whose dominions extend
to the shores of the Pacific, also submits to this magistrate
of San Diego. Men are sent to explore three different
points for a ship-yard on the coast of the Great South Sea ;
forty Spaniards, carpenters, sawyers, and blacksmiths, are sent
to the chosen port ; iron, anchors, cables, sails, rigging, pitch,
oakum, bitumen, and other naval stores, sufficient to build two
brigantines, are borne by Indian slaves and a few mules, from
Vera Cruz to Zacatula ; a distance of six hundred miles !
But misfortune is beginning to tread on the heel of Cortez'
enterprise. These materials, soon after their arrival at Zaca
tula, are consumed by fire. He has used all his private funds
in the purchase ; but as his credit is still good, a thousand
Indian backs, stout and subservient, are again gored and
broken by similar burthens. And the mountain path-ways
from Vera Cruz are a second time thronged with victims,
dying under the bales of materials for building the magis
trate's brigantines. Cortez sees them rise from keel to top
mast, constructed with very sharp bows, and masts leaning
forward, carrying triangular sails ; and although ill-shaped,
they run near the wind. In 1524, this fleet sails under com
mand of one Christopher de Olid, on a voyage among the
unseen waters of the North ! This expedition, however, re
sults in nothing but wind and storm, and the return of the
ships in a miserable condition.
Great minds in different ages have reposed belief in strange
things. Caesar trusted in the entrails of birds; the British
Parliament enacted laws against witchcraft ; and this Cortez,
in 1524, believes in a nation of immense women^ .called Ama
zons, inhabiting a very large island whose shores are strewn
with pearls and gold ! A sufficient variety of ,taste has hu
man credulity, to give it a keen appetite and capacious
throat. Cortez determines to discover the habitation of these

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 121
large ladies. But in 1528 his fame falls into the hands of
Spaniards who treat it with the same respect as they already
have that of Columbus ; that is, begin to dig its grave.
To avoid the vexations which the Viceroy of Mexico, and
a few other envious men, are throwing around him to cripple
his efforts, he sails to Spain and presents himself to his King.
He is received at court with marked kindness, is made Mar
quis del Valle de Guaxaca, Captain General of New Spain
and the provinces and coasts of the South Sea, discoverer
and peopler of those coasts and of the island of pearls, gold
and Amazons, with a grant of the twelfth part, for himself and
heirs, of all the territory that he shall discover and conquer.
These powers, privileges and honors fire anew the volcanic
spirit of this five feet seven inch slender student of Salaman
ca. In 1530, therefore, after having agreed with his sove
reign to prosecute his discoveries in the South Seas at his
own expense, he returns to Mexico ; and finding the Audien-
cia, the Council of Government, still inimical to him, deter
mines at once to undertake the manifold duties of his office.
Accordingly, in May, 1532, he appoints Diego Hortadc
Mendoza, a relative of his, commander of two ships which he
has built at Acapulco, and sends him on a cruise into the
Pacific. The crew of one of these vessels mutinies and
brings her back to Xalisco. The other, under the personal
command of Mendoza, is never heard of after she leaves
port. Misfortune never weakens Cortez' resolution. On
advice of his kinsman's loss and the ill fate of his expedition,
he proceeds to Tehuantepec, and superintends the building
of two other ships. These sail in 1534 for the fabled island
of Amazons, under command of Hernando Grijalva and a
cousin of Cortez, Diego Becera Mendoza. Grijalva pro
ceeds three hundred leagues to a desert island which he calls
San Tomas, and returns. Ximenes, the pilot of the other, kills
the commander, and having assumed the command, sails up
the Gulf-coast of California as far as the bay of Santa Cruz.
Here himself and twenty of his crew are destroyed by

122 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the Indians. After this event the sailors take the vessel
down the coast of Mexico to a port called Chiametla.
Ximenes' people, in the true spirit of the race to which
they belong, represent the country in which tlieir pilot has
been killed, as fruitful and thickly peopled, and the sea around
it, stored with great quantities of pearl beds. So that the mis
fortunes of former voyages only serve to arouse the uncon
querable spirit of this magistrate of San Diego de Cuba, to
further effort in search of the rich islands and countries in the
^orth Pacific. He accordingly gives public notice, that Her
nando Cortez, the conqueror of Mexico, Marquis del Valle,
His Majesty's discoverer, &c. &c, designs to take command
of a fleet for this purpose. Spaniards from all parts of the
country enter his camp at Tehuantepec ; three new ships are
launched, well supplied with stores for a long cruise, and sent
northward to Chiametla ; thither Cortez goes, with a large
body of priests, officers and soldiers, and several families, de
signing to settle in the territories he may discover ; the ship
of Ximenes, lying at Chiametla, empty and plundered, is.fitted
up as the fourth vessel of this little squadron ; and Cortez and
a part of his followers sail into the unknown north ; enter
the bay where Ximines was killed ; and call it Santa Cruz,
Bahia de ]a Paz.
Having landed his people and stores at this place, he sends
his ships back to Chiametla for a part of the stores and peo
ple which have been left. But tempests, fall upon them, and
contrary winds so thwart them, that only one ever returns
to La Paz. Their stores and provisions consequently wane
fast ; the country around is desolate and barren ; death gnashes
his teeth upon them, and starvation walks a ghastly image
through their pallid ranks ; but Cortez sees a difficulty only to
conquer it. He immediately puts to sea in his only remaining
ship ; crosses the gulf ; coasts along its eastern shore for the
space of fifty leagues, amid infinite dangers from rocks, currents
and tempests ; finds his lost ships stranded on the coast of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 123
Senora, and the bodies of his companions rotting and beating
among the breakers ! A sad find to those men was that ! A
dolorous termination to Cortez' hopes of discovery ! and dread
ful to the people of La Paz, on a heated and desolate shore,
starving and thirsting, the living eating the dead and drinking
their blood! On his return he finds the few wretched ones
who yet live, mad with hunger ! They shout with wild ma
niac joy, and rush into the surf! They try to swim to the
ship for food and are cast back upon the shore by the surges !
Many perish in the angry waters ! Cortez lands and gives
them food in sparing quantities. But the tides of life have
been ebbing too long ! Their dying energies are overtaxed !
They die by twenties and are buried among the brambles with
the holy water sprinkled on them for a coffin and winding
sheet ! The rude cross of wood stands over each one's grave,
the symbol of faith and life to come ! And now the deep de
sert, red and toneless; hears their requiem, in the clanking
cable of Cortez's ship, as the wailing crew heave the anchor,
and depart from the eastern shore of Lower California !
Meantime report at Mexico says that the murderer of Gua
timozin and Montezuma has perished in the western seas,
Cortez is the name of a corse bloated and sunken in their
depths. The caciques of the fallen dynasty shout for glad
ness among the mountains of Mexico. Their enslaver no
longer breathes. The great relentless heart of Cortez is
rotting. His fiery eye has ceased to burn. His unconquera
ble soul no longer hovers over their native vales, and the
sound of his terrible voice is for ever hushed. This belief
rouses their lost courage. They gather around their ancient
altars. The holy Sun is besought to blight their oppressors
with his fervent fires, and send life, love, and true hearts
among his fallen children. They worship in their ancient
temples, and vow that they will be free.
The Marchioness Donna Juanna de Zunniga, daughter of
the Count de Aguilar and cousin to the Duke ,de Bejan, has
loved the student of Salamanca, and become his second wife

124 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
And the love of this woman still burns ardently, and alone,
for her absent husband. The Audiencia at Mexico are Span
iards, and as such can lay aside their jealousy of Cortez
when his prowess is required to save their necks. A virtue
this which never fails to grow where Castilian blood fertilizes
the human frame. The Caciques now line the mountain sides
with their followers ; the war-cry bounds across the vale of
the city. " Cortez is dead, and we can be free !" is sung on
all the heights from the Gulf to the Pacific. That Audiencia
now loves Cortez. They condole with his wife on her pro
bable loss, and allow her to send a ship with letters from her
self urging his return. The Caciques press towards their holy
city, and its sacred lakes. The avenging passions of enslaved
millions growl through the land, and the clash of savage
arms, their dancings and songs, mingle in one direful din on
the ear of the Viceroy. He sends entreaties that Cortez will
return and save the country. These messages from the Vice
roy and his wife reach him on the coast of Senora ; he sails
back to La Paz; leaves Francisco de Ulloa in charge of a
part of his people ; returns to Acapulco ; goes to Quahuna-
huac to meet his anxious wife ; and thence proceeds to Mexi
co. The poor Indians learn that the murderer of their
Emperor lives ! They lay down their arms, and every hope
of freedom.
Ulloa has followed his master, and awaits his orders at
Acapulco. In May, 1537, he is again ordered to sea with
three ships, the Santa Agueda, La Trinidad, and Santo Tor
res. He touches at Santiago de Buena Esperanza ; at Guay-
abal ; crosses over to California, and follows the coast to the
head of the Gulf. Along this coast he sees many volcanoes,
bare mountains, and barren valleys. Whales abound in the
sea ; and on the land he finds large, heavy, and very crooked
sheep's horns; also naked Indians taking fish with hooks
made of wood, bone, and tortoise-shell, who wear bright
shells about the neck, and use the maws of sea-wolves for

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 125
drinking vessels ! After a year's cruising in the Gulf, or Ma
de Cortez, Ulloa returns to Acapulco.
About this time Alvar Nunnez Cabeza de Vaca and his
three companions, Castello, Dorontes, and a negro called Es-
tevanico, arrive at Mexico. They are the only survivors of
three hundred Spaniards who landed in Florida with Pamfilo de
Narvaez, ten years before, with the intention of conquering
that country. They have been defeated and driven from Flo
rida, and having wandered on foot through Louisiana, Texas,
and other parts inhabited by savages, they appear among
their countrymen naked, and so changed in their personal ap
pearance, that their language is almost the only evidence of
their origin. This Alvar Nunnez Cabeza de Vaca relates
such surprising tales of his adventures, and the gold, pearls,
&c, seen in the north, as to kindle anew the avarice of the
Spaniards. The excitement, however, does not reach its
height until the return of a monk who has travelled over
those countries with the design of Christianizing the natives.
This man has seen rich countries covered with grains, fruits,
countless herds of black cattle, and mountains shining with
the precious metals.
The Viceroy and Cortez are enemies. They both conceive
the design of penetrating these countries. But the
former induces the creditors of the latter to vex him with le
gal proceedings while he himself dispatches an expedition by
sea and another by land, to discover and conquer these won
der-born regions. The land force is led by Francisco Vas-
quez Coronado. He marches at the head of one thousand
chosen men ; and after many hardships reaches his destination, in
52° N. Lat., three hundred leagues north of Culiacan, Cinaloa,
and Valle de Senora. He £ Tds a province here composed of
seven towns in which are -about four hundred men and a pro
portionate number of women and children. The largest has
two hundred houses of earth and rough wood. Some are four
and five stories high. The entrance to each floor is from the

126 SCENES IN THE TACIFIC
outside by means of stairs, which, for security, are removed at
night. The country not being strewn with gold and gems, how
ever, as the soldiers anticipated, they propose to return. But
Coronado sends a body of them three hundred leagues farther
north, in s'earch of two cities, called Quivira and Axa. They
find only a rich country abounding in fruit, cattle and wild
beasts. Meeting with nothing, therefore, in all these regions
to gratify their cupidity during a search of three years, they
return to Mexico and report to that effect. This expedition
has traversed the interior of Upper California. The arma
ment, meantime, has sailed to the place of rendezvous on the
Pacific coast of Oregon, and awaited in idleness the arrival
of the land expedition. But as Grijalva was spending his time
in searching for a land of gold, and the fabled cities of
Quivira and Axa, instead of seeking his countrymen at the
appointed place, the commander of the fleet found it conve
nient to return to Mexico. He is soon after disgraced and dies
of chagrin. Thus terminate the Viceroy's expeditions !
The friends of Cortez bruit this failure of his enemy to de
fraud their chief of his rights. But the star of that great
man is sinking ; and they cannot stay its fall. Thwarted and
overreached by his enemies, and finding the mind of his sove
reign poisoned by their machinations, he resolves to present
himself again at Court and demand his rights. Accordingly,
in 1540, he embarks with his two sons for Spain; attends the
King in his unfortunate expedition to Algiers ; and after
spending seven years in vain efforts to regain the favor of his
monarch, expires of grief and disappointment at Castillya de
la Cuesta, while on his way to meet his daughter at Cadiz.
Thus dies the conqueror of Mexico and discoverer of
California !

CHAPTER VIII.
Three hundred years ago — The Capitana, Almiranta, Frigate and Barco
Longo — A rare Bird— Mazatlan — A Fog and a Reef— San Barrabe —
Laying down Arms— Rich Shores — Game — Nature's Salt Works —
¦Departure — A Northwester— A Separation — Signal Fires— A Desert —
Fish — A Saline Lake — Tracts and a Meeting — An Island— A Precious
Mountain — Amber — Cerros — Circumnavigating — San Hypolito — Up
the ' Coast— A Gale— Out of sight — ComeS to Anchor — Bahia San
Francisco of the South — Native Cattle — Indian Courtesy — A Meeting—
Another Bay^A Battle — Weighs — San Diego — Savages — Graves —
Santa Catarina— Its Inhabitants and Customs — Its Productions — A
Temple — A line of Islands — His Majesty and Hospitality — A Blow —
Four Canoes — Rio San Carmelo — Monterey in 1602 — Death — The Al
miranta dispatched to Mexico — A Horrid Disease — The Country — Its
People and Animals — Bahia San Franeisco of the North — Cape Men
docino — Death ! Death ! — Return to Mazatlan — Death — To Acapulco
-Lamentations ! !
In 1542 the Viceroy of Mexico sends Juan Rodriguez Ca-
brillo from the Port of Wavidad with two ships, on a voyage
of discovery up the coast of California. He touches at
Santa Cruz, la Magdalena, Cape del Enganno in lat. 32°,
La Cruz in 33°, de la Galera in 36^°, the Bay of San Fran
cisco in about 37° 40', and sees a large Cape, in lat. 40°,
which he calls Mendocino, in honor of the Viceroy. In March,
1543, he reaches 44° without making any additional discover
ies of importance. At this time, the cold being very intense,
he turns his ship homeward and enters the harbor of Navidad
on the 14th of April, 1545. No other expeditions are under
taken to California, until 1596; when Count, Monterey, the
reigning Viceroy, receives an order from Philip II. for mak
ing discoveries and settlements in California. In obedience
to this order, Sebastian Viscayno is appointed Captain-general
20

12S SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
of the Expedition, and Capt. Toribio Gomez admiral. Both
are persons of great worth, enterprise and skill. Two ships,
the Capitana and Almiranta, are purchased, and a frigate built
expressly for this service. There is besides a barco longo for
surveying creeks and bays, and such other services as cannot
be performed with deeper keels. Three barefooted Carmel
ites, Padre Andrez de la Assumpcion, Padre Antonio de la
Ascencion, and Padre Tomas de Aquino, accompany the ex
pedition in the capacity of spiritual advisers ; and Capt. Aton-
zo Estevan Peguero and Ensign Gaspar de Alarcon, as coun
sellors in relation to the proceedings of the expedition. Capt.
Geronimo Martin is likewise attached to it as draughtsman of
the coasts, islands, and harbors which shall be discovered.
This body of officers are men of enterprise and skill ; and sup
ported by the best seamen in Spanish America, great results
are anticipated from the voyage !
On the 5th of May, 1602, the fleet sails from Acapulco.
Strong head winds and currents buffet them for many days ;
but on the 19th of May, they reach Puerta La Navidad, and
put in to obtain ballast and repair the Capitana. All which
being dispatched with the utmost speed, they proceed on their
voyage and reach Cape Corrientes on the 26th of May.
Having surveyed this coast, and the adjacent country, they
sail northward to the Islands of Mazatlan. These they reach
on the 22d of June. They are two in number, lying near
each other, and making a fine roadstead between them and
the main shore. In this the Capitana and Almiranta come to
anchor. The frigate having been separated from them soon
after leaving Navidad, they fear she is lost ; but they are glad
to find her lying in a river which empties into this roadstead.
The officers and priests visit one of the islands. Great num
bers of sea birds, about the size of a goose, having a bill
nearly half a yard in length, legs resembling those of the
stork, and a large crop in which they carry small fish to their
young, cover the beach ; deer and wild goats abound inland.
These islands lie at the entrance of the Gulf of California.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 129
Having passed a part of the day among them, they steer
across the mouth of the Gulf, and on the 9th of July make
Cape San Lucas. As they stand in, a heavy fog falls upon
them, and completely conceals the shore. For a day and a
half they lie thus enveloped, out of sight of each other, and
in great danger. At length it clears up a little, and the Al
miranta discovers that she is within twenty-five fathoms of a
reef of rocks, on which she barely escapes being dashed in
pieces. Having borne away from so fearful a doom, they en
ter a bay where they rejoice to find the frigate already an
chored. This is the day of San Barnabe, and accordingly
the harbor is named in honor of that saint.
Their attention is soon attracted to the natives, who, armed
with bows, arrows, and spears, fine the shore, shouting
fiercely, and throwing sand in the air. General Viscayno
lands with twelve soldiers, the priests and officers. But the
natives are so intimidated by the lighted matches and arque
buses that they are near losing all communication with them,
when Padre Antonio de la Ascencion, advancing alone, mak
ing signs of peace and friendship, induces them to stop, em
braces them all kindly, and gives assurance that no harm is
intended them. They now lay down their arms, and intimate
that the soldiers must do the same before they will advance.
The Padre conveys this wish to his friends, and calls a little
negro boy to bring a basket of biscuit to distribute among
them. At sight of the negro they are greatly pleased, and
tell him, by signs, that there is a village of people Uke him
self not far thence, with whom they are on friendly terms.
Having received beads and other presents, they retire to their
rancherias, or settlements, much pleased, though apparently
not entirely free from apprehension. After this, the general
and others walk about to examine the shore. Not far distant
they observe a pond of clear water, on the borders of which
lie great quantities of sardine and pilchard, which have been
thrown up by the breakers. The next day they visit another

130 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
spot, where they find the shore for some distance strewn with
pearl oysters of the most brilliant and various hues.
The little fleet lies in this bay several days to repair, and
take in wood and water. The boats, meantime, are kept
constantly abroad taking fish. Soles, lobsters, pearl oysters,
&c, are procured. The quail, wOod-pigeon, rabbits, hares,
deer, lions, tigers, are seen on the hills; various kinds of trees,
as the pitahaya, fig, lentisk, and a great variety of plum
shrubs, which, instead of gum, emit a very fragrant odor,
grow in the valleys. In the vicinity of the anchorage is a
low tract of ground subject to be inundated by the sea, dur
ing the prevalence of the southwesterly winds. Its shape is
such that when the waves retire a large quantity 9f water is
left, which evaporates and leaves a deposit of fine white salt.
The Indians of this region go entirely naked. They are,
however, extremely fond of ornamenting their hair, and of
painting their bodies in black and white stripes.
Having finished the repairs about the time the moon
changes, and having by the distribution of goods produced a
"avorable, statfe of feeling among the soldiers, the Captain-
General, about the first of July, orders the squadron to put
to sea. But they run only three leagues, when a northwest
erly wind springs up, which soon increases to such a gale
that they are compelled to put back into the bay of San
Barnabe. Three times they stand out, and as often are com
pelled to return. At last they determine to leave the barco
longo, which the Capitana has towed, much to the detriment
of her progress, and on the 5th of July, for the fourth time,
attempt to gain the open sea. The Almiranta and Capitana
with great difficulty make some headway against the tem
pest. But the frigate is obliged to part company, and run in
under the land. When the gale abates, the commander is
desirous of uniting with the frigate, and for this purpose lays
in for the shore. On the 8th they make land under the
brow of some lofty hills, where they are becalmed. This
range of highlands, they call Sierra del Enfado, or Mount

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 131
Tedious. On the 16th a breeze fills their sails, and the ships
stand away for the harbor de la Magdalena. Here they are
enveloped in a fog so dense that a man cannot be seen at
six paces. The Capitana runs into the harbor, but the Almi
ranta is compelled to turn her prow seaward. When the
fog clears up, therefore, they have lost sight of each other.
The people of the Capitana mount the hills which skirt the
harbor, and build signal fires on the heights. These are seen
by the people of the Almiranta ; but mistaking them for the
fires of the Indians, continue to stand off. The Captain-Gene
ral now becomes very anxious for the missing ship and fri
gate ; and, as soon as the gale abates, sails in quest of them.
He first explores the bay of San Jago ; but not finding them
there, proceeds to Magdalena, and, to the joy of all, anchors
near the frigate.
They weigh anchor again on Sunday morning the 28th
of July, and that they may not be parted again, the Capitana
takes the frigate in tow. A gale which comes on from the
northwest after they leave the harbor, prevents them from
standing as far from the shore as they desire. But they bear
away along the coast, and soon after heave in sight of a bay
which seems to be formed by the mouth of a river. This
the frigate is sent to survey. But ascertaining the mouth to
be crossed by a line of impassable breakers, they continue
their voyage. On the eighth of August they discover another
bay. Being now very much in want of wood, water, and
fresh food, some soldiers are sent on shore to search for them.
The country, however, is perfectly barren and destitute of all.'
An island is in sight which promises the required aid. It
proves to be small, with a soil of gravel and sand, and
thronged with gulls. The creeks are frequented with im
mense numbers of sea wolves, and a great variety of fish.
The boat is sent out with fishing tackle, &c, and in an hour
two men take a supply for both vessels..
Transfiguration day is passed here; and Padre Antonio
celebrates mass. After service, the sergeant and some soldiers

132 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
being out in search of water and wood, find a lake filled with
very good salt. Near it are some pits containing brackish
water. Around these they discover innumerable foot prints,
and other signs which, to their inexpressible joy, clearly in
dicate that the crew of the Almiranta have been here before
them ! They therefore take a small supply of this miserable
water, and sail for the island of Cerros in search of their com
panions, On their way they pass a very high barren moun
tain upon the main coast, showing every variety of color, on a
bright shining surface. It is affirmed, by a sailor from Peru,
to be a bed of silver and gold ! They are very desirous to
ascertain if this opinion be true ; but the wind will not per
mit them to land.
They soon after enter a good harbor, which they name San
Bartholome. Here the General sends Ensign Alarcon and
some soldiers ashore for water. The only thing they find
worthy of notice is a kind of resin, or gum, which being
rather offensive to the smell, they do not think worth taking
to the ship. They believe it to be amber, and report enough
of it to load a large ship. As no water is to be found on
this barren shore, they continue their search for the lost
vessel. On the last day of August they come to anchor at the island
of Cerros. While they are furling their sails, Padre Tomas
de Aquino discovers the Almiranta approaching them. The
most extravagant joy is manifested on board both ships at
this meeting. Capt. Viscayno learns that she has been lying
in a fine harbor since the nineteenth ; that she has just weigh
ed for the purpose of circumnavigating the island in search
of the Capitana, and that supplies of wood, water, salt, &c,
may be had at her last mooring ground. Accordingjy, the
little fleet runs into the Almiranta's old harbor. Here the
General orders his men to pitch a tent for the Padres, and
take in supplies. But the water is found so remote, that the
General sends Ensign Juan Francisco and Sergeant Miguel de

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. ' 133
Legar with twelve soldiers, over the island, to see if there be
not some spring or stream more accessible.
After a long search they report the discovery of a rivulet
about two leagues distant. Everything is now ordered on
board and the fleet proceeds at once to the mouth of the
stream. While they are taking in water, the General orders
the frigate to make the circuit of the island. On their return,
the cosmographer reports it to be about thirty leagues in cir
cumference, to have high mountains covered with cedar and
pine, and to be inhabited by savages, who answered all then-
signs of peace with the most threatening gestures. On the
main coast a large bay was observed, which seemed to run
far inland. All the ships of the fleet being supplied with
water, they set sail on the ninth of September. Their course
is northerly, towards the main shore. They make it on the
eleventh, and discover a fine bay, which they call San Hypo-
lito. Anchois are dropped and preparations made for sur
veys. For this purpose the General orders some soldiers
ashore under Capt. Peguero and Ensign Alarcon. The coun
try is found very beautiful. A broad and well-beaten road
leads inland from the coast to a large hut covered with palm-
•eaves, capable of containing fifty persons. While returning
to the ship they take a great quantity of the best fish, on
which all hands feast sumptuously. Thus fed, and joyful that
they have found so desirable a country, they raise anchors
and stand up the coast.
As they sail along they see many large fires, which they
deem an indication that Indian villages are numerous. But
they have proceeded a few leagues only, when a violent gale
springs up from the northwest, which compels them to run in
under some lofty hills bordering the sea. To the southeast
of this anchorage is seen a line of white cliffs on which there
appear to be a great number of Indians. The General, there
fore, orders the frigate in shore with the cosmographer to take
a chart of the coast and ascertain the condition of the natives.
On coming in close under the heights she is becalmed at such

134 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
a distance from the shore that they cannot land. The sea,
meanwhile, running very high outside, obliges the ships to lie tc
for twenty-four hours, during which time the frigate drifts out
of sight and the Almiranta is near foundering. In the morn
ing they endeavor to continue their voyage. But the wind
increases till evening, when a thick fog envelopes earth, sea,
and ships. The Almiranta being in much jeopardy from the in
juries received the previous night, the General determines to
look for some harbor where they may be secure against the
heavy storm presaged by the fog. He finds none; but much to
their surprise, the following day opens clear, and with a gentle
breeze, which carries them off the Mesas, near which the frigate
left them. The promises of fair weather, however, prove very
deceitful ; for before night a gale, more violent than any they
have experienced, and accompanied by a thick fog, overtakes
them. The ships lie to all night under reefed mainsails ; but
before morning they lose sight of each other.
The General now makes every effort to fall in with the
Almiranta ; and keeping close in shore for this purpose, very
unexpectedly meets the frigate. But as he gets no tidings of
the ship, his fears for her safety are not lessened. He there
fore puts into a fine harbor which they have discovered north
west of Cape Enganno, and there awaits her. He believes
that, if still in a sailing condition, she must, by pursuing her
instructions in regard to her course, necessarily pass near the
mouth of this bay. They call this harbor Bahia de San Fran
cisco. Iii a rancheria near the anchorage they find a species
of onions. Goats' horns, also, are strewn over the ground.
The surrounding country is level, fertile, and very beautiful.
The plains are fed by large herds of cattle and deer. The
crew of the frigate point out an island a little north of the
anchorage which they call San Geronimo ; and the Captain-
General orders some of the seamen ashore to examine it. It
proves to be heavily wooded, and frequented by immense flocks
of birds. Its shoals abound in the finest cod and other fish
lOf these they take a supply for all the ships. Beyond the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 135
island they discover a large bay into which a considerable
creek empties itself with a strong current.. The frigate goes
in to survey it. They observe great numbers of naked Indi
ans fishing in the creek, who approach the Spaniards with the
liveliest marks of joy, offer them the best of their fish, and
show them several wells of pure fresh water. When these
things are reported to Captain Viscayno, he orders a tent to
be pitched for the celebration of mass, and preparations made
to lie here till the Almiranta comes up, or all hope of her is lost.
They take in wood and water. Every morning the Indi
ans bring them a supply of fish for the day, and pay such
deference to the Spaniards, that they never visit the rancherias
in the neighborhood, without first soliciting the permission
of the General and the Padres. The Spaniards return their
courtesy with trifling presents, which enlist their wonder and
admiration so deeply, that immense numbers of Indian men,
and women with two infants each, flock from the neighboring
rancherias ; pronounce Spanish words after the soldiers ;
eaf with them ; and in other ways show a disposition to culti
vate the most friendly and intimate acquaintance. The fe
males are clad in skins, and show much propriety of conduct.
These Indians carry on a considerable trade with their inland
neighbors by furnishing them with fish, and receiving in re
turn net purses, curiously wrought, and a root called mexcalli
or maguey, boiled and prepared as a conserve. Of both
these articles they give great quantities to the Spaniards
in return for the beads and other trifles. They in
form their visitors that up in the country there are a great
many people who wear clothes and beads, and have fire-arms.
They are supposed to refer to Onate's land expedition from
Mexico. «•
Having now abandoned all hope of the Almiranta, it being
twenty-eight days since she parted from them, the General,
on the twenty-fourth of October, stands out to sea. Just as
he leaves the bay, to his great astonishment and joy, the
long absent ship is seen approaching.

136 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Being now all united again, the General gives orders »
continue the voyage, and run into the first harbor discovered.
They soon see a large bay, which the tender is ordered to ex
plore. It is well sheltered from the northwest winds; but
as its shores are lined with great numbers of warlike Indians
instead of landing they proceed up the coast A north
wester, however, soon obliges them to put back, and come to
anchor. This being the anniversary of St. Simon and St
Jude, they give the name of both saints to the bay. The next
morning Captain Peguero and Ensign Alarcon are sent ashore
with some soldiers to look for wood and fresh water. Find
ing none of the latter, they dig some wells in a moist spot
overgrown with sedge and flags. While doing this, the
Indians seem very brisk and bold; but do not molest the
Spaniards till some presents are offered them. Construing
this act into a sign of fear on the part of their visitors, they
at once become impudent, attempt to steal, and even go so
far as to try to take one of the boats from the boys who are
left in charge of it. To deter them from further violence, one
of the soldiers, as they are going off to the ship, fires his
piece in the air. But the Indians finding no one hurt, grow
more insolent than ever ; and the next day when a small party
goes on shore to obtain water, they become so very trouble
some that two soldiers who have their matches lighted, order
them to stand back. But this only increases their audacity.
One of them throws his bow over the head of a soldier. The
pilot draws his sabre, and severs it. They now draw up in
form, and place their arrows on their bow-strings. The
soldiers, who have lighted matches, are ordered to fire upon
them! In a moment six Indians lie bleeding upon the
'sand! Their companions snatch them up and bear them
away !
. The news of this occurrence spreads like the wind among
the neighboring rancherias, and in a short time two hundred
Indians painted fiercely, wearing plumes upon their heads,
and armed with bows and arrows, rush down to attack the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 137
Spaniards. The Ensign, on seeing them, orders his men to
make ready. The Indians, however, do not relish the ap
pearance of the arquebuses, and remain at a distance, talk
ing and gesticulating in the most earnest manner. At length
they seiid one of their number with a little dog, in token of
their desire to make peace. The man, whilemaking the treaty,
eyes the arquebuses very keenly, and signifies that four of his
people are already deceased, and others dying of their wounds ;
and in token of their sincere wish not to hear from these gods
of fire again, he makes a number of presents to the soldiers
who bear them, and retires.
The squadron leaves the bay on Wednesday the first of
November. Continuing along the coastj they come to. the
mouth of a very large bay, sheltered on all sides, except the
sea-ward one, by lofty mountains. It is protected at the
entrance by two islands, which they call Todos Santos. The
frigate and the Almiranta run in to make surveys. But the
Capitana standing off, and night approaching, they dread
another separation so much that they put out and rejoin the
General. The next morning preparations are made to enter
it again, for a more deliberate examination. But a favorable
breeze springing up, they conclude to leave it for their re
turn, and continue the voyage.
On the fifth of November they fall in with four islands,
which they call Coronadas. On the tenth they enter the fa
mous harbor of San Diego. The day after their arrival, En
sign Alarcon, Captain Peguero and eight soldiers are sent out
to explore. They first direct their steps to a heavy forest
which lies on the northwest side of the bay. This is ascer
tained to be about three leagues in width and half a one in
breadth. The trees are chiefly oaks, with an undergrowth of
fragrant shrubs. Obtaining a fine view of the bay from the
heights, they ascertain it to be spacious, land-locked, and
every way desirable ; and returning to the ships, report such
to be its character. This result being deemed satisfactory by
the General, he orders a tent pitched on shore for the celehra-

138 SCENES IN THE PA CI FIG
tion of mass, and preparation to be made for repairing the
ships. One part of the crews therefore is assigned to clean
and tallow the hulls, another to fill the water casks, and
another to procure wood and keep guard.
One day when each department is employed at its appoint
ed task, a sentinel posted in the forest sees a large body of
Indians coming along the shore, naked, painted with red and
while colors, and armed with bows and arrows. In order if
possible, to avoid bloodshed, the General desires Padre Anto
nio to go and offer them peace. He is accompanied by En
sign Juan Francisco and six soldiers. Signs of peace being
made with a bit of white linen, the Indians immediately de
liver their arms. The Padre embraces them all affectionate
ly ; and thus the best understanding is at once established.
But observing so large a number of persons on board the
ships, they retire in much apprehension; and after consulting
some time together, send two of their women alone to the
tent. They approach with a timid air ; but being kindly re
ceived and presented with beads, biscuit, &c, they return and
make such a report to their people as soon brings the whole
troop down to the water side. They are generally naked ;
their bodies striped with white and black paint ; and their
heads loaded with feathers. Their light paint seems to the
voyagers, to be compounded of silver and other materials ;
and on being asked what it is, they give the Spaniards a piece
of metallic ore, saying, " it is made from this." They add
that far up in the country there are many people. Wearing
beads and clothes like theirs, who make of this metal such
ornaments as the General has on his purple velvet doublet.
All desirable preparations being made, they sail from this
beautiful bay of San Diego. While they have tarried in it,
many of the crew who had been sick of the scurvy, have re
covered, and many others have died. It is a sorrowful occa
sion for those who still live, to part from the graves of their
companions. They are interred on the borders of the magni
ficent forest northwest of the bay ; and the well known trees

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 139
which spread their branches over them, are discernible as
they leave the land! They scarcely clear the headlands of
the harbor when a terrible northwester comes down upon
them and changes their grief to fear. They see another voy
age begun which may terminate their own lives. But they
keep their course and soon make another large bay. It is
surrounded by a level, beautiful country, the inhabitants of
which make fires on the heights along the coast, and by every
sign in their power, invite the fleet to anchor. On approach
ing the land, however, they find no shelter from the northwest
wind and stand out again to sea. A few leagues brings them
to the large island of Santa Catarina.
On the twenty-eighth they anchor in the bay. The in
habitants of Santa Catarina make the most noisy and earnest
invitations for them to land. The General therefore orders
Admiral Gomez, Capt. Peguero, and Ensign Alarcon, with
twenty-four soldiers, to land on the island, and learn what the
natives so earnestly desire. As soon as they reach the shore,
they are surrounded by Indian men and women, who treat
them with much kindness and propriety, and intimate that
they have seen other Spaniards. When asked for water they
give it to the whites in a sort of bottle, made of rushes.
They explore the island. It appears to be overgrown with
savin and a species of briar. A tent is pitched for religious
service, and Padre Tomas being ill, Padres Antonio and An-
drez celebrate mass in presence of all the people. These In
dians spend much of their time in taking the many varieties
of fish. which abound in the bay. They have boats made of
plank, capable of containing twenty persons. In these they
carry long slender poles, to which harpoons of fish-bone are
attached by long ropes. They strike with the harpoon and
pay out rope till the fish is unable to run longer, and then if
it be small, take it into the boat, or if large tow it ashore.
They prize the sea- wolf most highly, as well on account of its
flesh, which they eat, as its skin, of which they make most of
their clothing.

140 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
The women of this tribe are beautiful, modest, and ex
tremely well conducted. The children have fine complexions
and are very amiable. They live in large huts, dispersed in
rancherias, and have many convenient utensils made of rushes.
Their island abounds in a small root resembling the common
potato, which is much prized as an article of food. On this
island is a very large level enclosure, with an altar in the
centre surrounded by a circular wall or partition of various
colored feathers. Within this circle is > a figure painted
with a great variety of hues, and resembling the image by
which the Indians of Mexico typify the devil. In its hands
are the figures of the Sun and Moon. As the soldiers ap
proach this place they discover two very large crows within
the enclosure, which rise on their coming up and alight on
some rocks in the vicinity. Before the guide can remonstrate,
their pieces are levelled and both birds fall. This act calls
forth the bitterest lamentations from the Indian, who evidently
regards them as sacred to his deity. Santa Catarina has se
veral fine harbors. It abounds in partridges, quails, rabbits,
hare and deer. The people are very numerous, and exhibit
much ingenuity in pilfering from their visitors.
On the twenty-first of December the squadron leaves Santa
Catarina to explore other islands which extend in a line nearly
onehundred leagues up the coast. They are found to be inhab
ited by shrewd, active people, who trade much among them
selves and with their neighbors on the continent. Between
a portion of them and the main land is a channel called the
Canal de Santa Barbara. After exploring. them, the fleet
puts back to the continent, near the southern mouth of this
channel. Before they reach the shore, however, four men
come up to the Capitana, and row three times round her
with the most astonishing swiftness, all the while chanting a
kind of Wild measure, similar to what the Indians of Mexico
Call almatote. By this the Spaniards understand that they
have the Indian king or cacique on board. And so it proves ;
for when the ceremony is over, his majesty steps on board the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 141
Capitana, and after walking three times around the quarter
deck, addresses himself in a long speech to the General and
his officers. This being concluded, he adopts the more intel
ligible method of signs, to inform the Spaniards that the na
tives of Santa Catarina have sent his majesty advices of their
visit, and have also spoken of their bravery, generosity, and
the many presents made by them. All these things have
kindled in his majesty a desire to cultivate the acquaintance
of such illustrious persons ; and he backs his protestations of
regard by the proposition to furnish them with everything
they desire to eat and drink, and with the moderate supply
of ten women each ! To prove his ability in this last offer,
himself and son will remain as hostages while one of the sol
diers shall go on shore and ascertain the fact. As it is near
night, however, the General very ungallantly declines his
offer in behalf of himself and crew ; and his majesty at length
departing, it is thought best to improve the fair wind then
coming on, to prosecute the voyage. Setting all sail, there
fore, they progress rapidly till they nearly complete the sur
vey of the channel. The breeze leaves them opposite a
cluster of islands, six in number, and about two leagues dis
tant from each other. The channel is ascertained to be about
twenty-four leagues in length. The main coast is beautifully
diversified with woodland and lawn, among which are several
Indian villages.
The following night the wind changes to northwest, and
blows a tremendous gale for about sixty hours. The waters
in the channel are lifted into mountains. The ships are driven
almost uncontrolled among the islands.' The greatest fear
prevails that all will be lost. On the third day, however, the
tempest abates. The Capitana and Almiranta are safe, and
with the fair weather stand in for the continent. But the fri
gate is missing. The coast is skirted with lofty mountains
which shelter some fine bays. From one of these, four ca
noes run out at the same moment, filled with Savages bring
ing a large quantity of excellent sardines. These Indians

142 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
are tall, fine-looking people. They cover themselves with
goat-skins before entering the ships ; and as if sensible that
language not understood would be of no use, they utter not
a word, but express their thoughts by signs. Appearing very
good-natured, and not disposed to pilfer, the Spaniards pre
sent to them some clothing and trinkets, with which they
seem delighted. The next day, others coming on board
urge the General to bring his ships to their country,
in order that they may furnish him with plenty of fish and
acorns. The frigate now rejoins the ships. She has been "driven
among the islands, and experienced much hospitality from
the natives. They now all get under way and stand nearer
the shore in search of a harbor. The whole coast has been
enveloped in a thick fog since the gale. A fair wind, how
ever, springing up, they run along the edge of the mist till the
fourteenth of January, when the weather clearing, they find
themselves under a ridge of high mountains, white at the
top, and clothed with wood at the base. This range they
call Sierra de Santa Lucia. Four leagues beyond it a river
tumbles through a. ledge of rocks into the sea. Its banks are
covered with black and white poplar, willow, birch, and pine.
This stream they call Rio San Carmelo.
Two leagues farther on is a splendid harbor, between Which
and the mouth of the Carmelo, is a heavy pine wood, form
ing a cape. This is Punto de Pinos. In this harbor the
squadron comes to anchor. The crews are very much
reduced by sickness. The master and mate of the Al
miranta are both unable to leave their births ; the Captain-
General and his mate are scarcely able to appear on deck ; a
great many of the soldiers and boys are very sick ; and
sixteen have died since leaving Bahia de San Francisco.
Under these circumstances it is resolved that the Almiranta
shall be sent back under the command of Admiral Gomez,
with the two pilots Pasqual and Balthazar, and all the sick ;
that she shall take a sufficient number of sound men to man

TRAVELS IN THE CALIiORNIAS. 143
her; and that the rest shall go on board of the Capitana and
frigate. The General will send advices and a chart of all his
discoveries, with a request that a reinforcement and supplies
may be sent on early in the spring, to enable him to complete
the survey of the coast and Gulf.
In accordance with this arrangement the sick are put on
board with great care; Padre Thomes de Aquino is assigned to
accompany them, and on the twenty-ninth of January the
Almiranta sets sail for Acapulco. . The disease which preys
SO distressingly and fatally on the ships' crews is one of a very
singular character. It is supposed to arise from the action of
the cold winds of this region upon the relaxed constitutions
of persons who come into it from warmer climates. The pa
tient is seized with violent pains throughout the system, which
are soon followed by such extreme sensibility as forbids the
slightest touch. This latter symptom is often so excruciating
as to draw tears and groans from the stoutest men. Soon
after this the surface becomes spotted with an eruption of a
purple color, fine and sharp, feeling as if shot were inserted
under the skin. These are followed by wales or lines of the
same color, similar to those raised by the infliction of severe
blows. They are about the width of two fingers'; appear
first on the upper posterior portion, of the thigh ; but soon
spread themselves to the flexure of the knee. Wherever they
appear the parts become rigid, and remain in the position in
which they were first seized. The whole system now swells
prodigiously, and the patient cannot be moved in any manner
without suffering extreme torture. The disease finally ex
tends itself to all parts of the body, affecting particularly the
shoulders, head and loins, and causing the most distressing
pains in the kidneys. No relief can be obtained by change
of position ; for the slightest motion is agony. In time the
entire body is covered with ulcers so exceedingly sensitive
that the pressure of the lightest bed covering is intolerable.
At length the gums and jaws swell so that the mouth cannot
be closed, and in many cases the teeth drop out ! The vio-

144 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
lence of the disease and the debility arising from it are such,
that the patients frequently- die while talking with their
friends. Such is the dreadful pestilence that has swept the
Captain-General's ranks, and now fills the Almiranta with
groans, shrieks, prayers and curses !
While she is making her way back to Acapulco, the Capi
tana and frigate remain in the harbor of Monrerey to take in.
wood and water, and explore the adjacent country. They
find this finely diversified with lawns and groves of pine, firs,
willow and poplars, with an abundant undergrowth of roses
and fragrant shrubs. The open lands are also dotted with
clear, pure lakes. The country is inhabited by a great vari
ety of wild beasts. A large bear, a species of horned cattle
similar in size and shape to the buffalo, and another which,
from the description, might be ancestor of the Americana
Horribilis, are among the most remarkable. The voyagers
give to this latter beast the size of the wolf, the form and
horns of the stag, the skin and neck of the pelican, a tail half
a yard in width and twice as long, and a cloven foot ! If it
were a native, one might be led to speculate on the propin
quity of sulphur ! The country also abounds in deer, rabbits,
hare, wild-cats, bustards, geese, ducks, pigeons, partridges,
thrushes, sparrows, goldfinches, cranes, vultures, and another
bird about the size of a turkey. On the seaboard are great
numbers of gulls, cormorants, and other sea-fowl. The sea
abounds in oysters, lobsters, crabs, sea-wolves, porpoises and
whales. On the shores are many rancharias, the residents of
which are an affable, generous people, living under some form
of government. They use, the native arms and subsist chiefly
on fish and game. They seem fond of the Spaniards, and ex
press the most sincere sorrow at their intention to leave them
But this is unavoidable. Both vessels run out of the harbor
with a fair wind, on the fifth day of January, 1603, and stand
away northward.
Soon after passing the harbor of San Francisco, in Lat. 37°
45', they lose sight of each other, and the Capitana puts

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 145
back into it, to await the arrival of the frigate, and also to
survey the harbor and Surrounding country. Another reason
which the Captain-General has for wishing to stop here is to
ascertain if there be any remains of the San Augustine* which
had been driven ashore in 1595 with other vessels • sent by
the Government from the Philippine Islands, to survey the
coast of California. The pilot of this squadron, Francisco
Valanos, is acquainted with the country. He reports that
they left a large cargo of wax and several chests of silk on
the shore of this harbor. The General, therefore, runs the
Capitana in, and anchors her behind a point of land called
Punta de los Reyes. Becoming more anxious, however, for the
fate of the frigate,, he weighs the next day and runs out in
search of her. A gentle northwester takes him up the coast
within sight of Cape Mendocino, when a violent southwester,
accompanied by sleet and a heavy sea, combined with the
sickly state of the crew, induces him to seek a southerly
harbor, in which to await the coming of spring and the rein
forcement from Mexico.
They are now in a deplorable state. Six seamen only are
able to be on deck. The officers are all sick. The Padres
are scarcely able to administer the last rites to the dying ;
and the few well ones are in dreadful consternation lest a
storm come on, and the ship go down, for want of men to
manage her. This determination of General Viscayno,
therefore, raises the spirits of the healthyj and cheers the sick
to their best efforts. When the wind changes so that the fog
is dispersed, the pilots take an observation and find themselves
inLati42°, opposite a cape which runs eastwardly, and
unites with a range of snowy mountains. This they call
Cabo Blanco de Sebastian. The lost frigate runs very near
the, Capitana during the storm spoken of, but not being
able to live in such a sea, she comes to anchor under a huge
rock near Cape Mendocino. The pilot, Florez, when the
storm abates, finds himself in Lat. 43° north, near Cape
Blanco, and the mouth of a large river, whose banks are
13

146 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
covered with ash, willow, and other trees, well known to the
Spaniards. This river they are very desirous to explore,
supposing it will conduct them to the great city reported by
some Dutch mariners, to exist in this region ; or that it is the
Strait of Anian, connecting the Atlantic with the Pacific J
The worthy pilot, however, has no chance of immortalizing
himself by running through Smith's river to the city of Man
hattan. The current is against his course and his fame ; and
he turns back with the determination of sailing to Acapulco ,
without unnecessary delay.
Meantime the Capitana is making all possible speed for
La Paz, the harbor selected for her winter quarters. Oc
casionally, in her progress, she is visited by the trading canoes of
the Indians. But nothing of moment befals her save that her
crew grow more and more sickly, till she reaches a large island
lying east of Santa Catarina, when only three persons beside
the Captain-General are able to keep the deck. There is
no conversation, no mirth on board ! Orders are conveyed in
the quiet tone of conversation! Thex good Padre Andrez
moves quietly about among the sick, the sole physician,
nurse, priest and confessor of that gloomy hospital ! Now he
bears medicine to the sick, and smoothes their pillow ; now he
administers the extreme unction, and anoints with holy oil
the dying ; now he seals the lips and closes the eyes of the
dead ! Prayers and groans alone are heard ; except when
the burial service is hurriedly chanted, and the sudden plunge
announces that some one is gone from among them for ever !
These terrible afflictions induce the General to abandon his
intention of wintering at La Paz, and to run directly for the
islands of Mazatlan, where he can procure better treatment
for his dying crew. On the third of February he reaches the
island of San Hilario and passes on to Cerros. Here he stops
and obtains a supply of wood and water. On his departure,
he leaves letters and signals for the frigate, in case she should
touch there, and turns his prow for Cape San Lucas. He
reaches it on the fourteenth of February, and standing directly

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 147
«t;ross the mouth of the Gulf, enters a harbor near the island of
Mazatlan on the seventeenth of the same month. An account
of his condition being sent to the Viceroy, he determines to go
in person to San Sebastian, a village about eight leagues from
the harbor, for more immediate aid. He starts on the nine*
teenth with five of his soldiers. But being utterly ignorant of
the country, they take the wrong path, and wander two days in
the wood without food or water. At length they fall into a
broad beaten road, and while resting themselves by the way
side, a drove of mules, laden with provisions, comes along.
These are going from Castile to Culiacan. The General
learns from the muleteers that an old friend of .his has become
the Alcalde of the latter place, and immediately accepts their
offer to convey himself and soldiers thither.
At this town they are furnished with every comfort for
themselves and those on board the ship. The poor seamen
and Padres ! They are now reduced to the most lamentable
condition ! Helpless, covered with ulcers, and unable to speak
or eat ! Among other things that are sent them, is a kind of
fruit which is considered a specific for this disease. It bears
among the natives the cognomen, Xocohuiltzes. It resembles
an apple. The leaves of the plant are exactly like those of
the pineapple. The fruit grows in clusters. The rind or
shell is yellow, and contains a pulp full of seeds. Its flavor
is slightly tart. Its medical properties are such that it
cleanses the mouth reduces the gums, fastens the teeth, heals
the ulcers, purifies the blood, &c. Its virtues were acci
dentally discovered by an officer who was attending the burial
of a victim to this frightful disease, from his own ship. He
was himself somewhat infected, and passing under a tree,
plucked and ate some of the fruit. In a few minutes he
voided from the mouth a large quantity of purulent matter,
mingled with blood. The soreness was at the same time much
relieved, and the gums contracted upon the teeth so that they no
longer rattled in his mouth. The poor seamen and soldiers
have suffered most deplorably from this malady. By the use

148 SCENES IN THE. PACIFIC.
of this fruit they begin to recover. Nor have the Padres been
less afflicted. Such is the condition of their hands and mouths,
that the crucifixes which they have held and often caressed,
while the disease has been devouring their frames, are covered
with a filthy gore ! Their couches, as well as thosri of the
crew, are masses of putrid matter ! But now all are creep
ing on deck ; the ship and its appurtenances are cleansed ;
their rotting frames begin to heak! On the 21st of March
they, are so . far restored that the Capitana puts to sea, and
after a pleasant sail of eight days, moors in the bay of Aca
pulco. When her anchor runs, and the pallid forms of tha
few survivors are seen at the bulwarks, the horrid spectacle
chills every tongue! The people gather on the shore in
silence. But soon mothers call the names of those who, many
months before, have been buried in the sea ! Fathers seek
their sons whose graves the wolves have opened in the forest
of San Diego ! Mothers, in the excess of maternal sorrow,
demand of the Captain-General their offspring, who have fall
en, muscle and bone, morsel by morsel, before the terrific
pestilence ! A few recognize among the living, the disfigured
countenances of their friends, and rushing on board embrace
them with loud lamentations ! The Almiranta rides hard by
The frigate arrives in as deplorable a state as the Capitana.
Her crew is reduced to a number scarcely sufficient to remem
ber the sufferings and the names of those who have died.
Thus terminates the voyage of Viscayno. He has explored
the whole Pacific coast of Upper and Lower California.

CHAPTER IX.
A.D. 1615— A.D. 1633-4— Don Pedro Portel de Cassanate— A.D. 1647—
A.D. 1666-7— A.D. 1683— Indians— A Battle— All busy— Orders
from Mexico — Ships dispatched — A Garrison and Church — An Ex
pedition into the Interior — Despatches arrive— A Determination-
Padre Kino— Padre Juan Maria Salva Tierra — The Jesuits — Powers
granted — Salva Tierra goes to California — The Resurrection — Inso
lence—An Attack— A Repulse— A General Onset— A Route— Peace —
Arrival of Padre Piccolo — An Exploration — Condition of the Conquest
Salva Tierra goes to Senora for Food — An Expedition to the Gila and
Colorado of the West by Padres Kino and Salva Tierra — Return to
Senora — Padre Salva Tierra leaves for California — Another Expedi
tion to the Gila and Colorado by Padres Kino and Gonzales — Indians
and Rivers — Death — Last Days of Padre Kino — A lost Grave.
No other expedition of any moment is undertaken to Cali
fornia until 1615, when Captain Juan Iturbi obtains a license
for making a voyage at his own expense. One of his two
ships is captured by a Dutch pirate. With the other he
reaches the coast of Cinaloa, and procures supplies from a Je
suit Missionary, Padre Ribas, preparatory to crossing the
Gulf. But before leaving port he is ordered out to convoy
the Philippine ship to Acapulco. This done, he returns to
Mexico, and by exhibiting the pearls he has taken fires anew
the wonder and cupidity of the whole country. The Califor
nian pearl fisheries are soon thronged. A few find what they
desire, but an infinitely greater number are disappointed.
The results, however, lead to the granting of a license to
Francisco de Ortega to make a voyage up the Gulf. He sails
in March, 1632. Accompanying him is Padre Diego de la
Nava, the newly appointed Vicar-general of California.
On the second of May they land at San Barnabe bay ; and
having made a special survey of the coast from this point to

150 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
La Paz and purchased some pearls of the Indians, they touch
at Cinaloa, and in June go thence to report their proceedings
to the Viceroy. In 1633 and '34, Capt. Ortega makes two
other voyeges for the purpose of forming a settlement in Cali
fornia ; but finds the country so barren that he is obliged to
abandon his design. He now proposes to have a garrison es
tablished at some proper point for colopization, and a sum of
monev granted from the royal treasury to maintain settlers lor
a definite period. But while he is agitating these measures,
he has the mortification to learn that his pilot, Carboneh, has
not only obtained a license for making a voyage, but asserts
the practicability of settling the country farther north, with-
outdepending on the government for supplies. This pilot
sails in 1636 ; but to his chagrin nowhere finds such a coun
try as he has promised ; and, after obtaining a few pearls, re
turns to confess his failure.
After this, an expedition is undertaken at His Majesty s ex
pense. The governor of Cinaloa receives orders to pass over
to California and survey the islands, bays, coast and face of
the country, preparatory to making a chart for the use of na
vigators. He does so. Padre Jacinto Cortez, a missionary
of Cinaloa, accompanies him in order to ascertain if it be
practicable to Christianize the Indians. They complete the
survey in July, 1642, and soon after send their charts, pearls,
and other things procured, to fhe.Viceroy.
A change is now taking place at Mexico. The Viceroy,
Don Diego Lopez Pacheco, Marquis de Villena and Duke of
Esclofia, returns to Spain under suspicion, and is succeeded
by Don Juan de Palafox. The Marquis successfully vindi
cates himself against the malicious charges of his enemies,
and procures an expedition to California to be ordered under
Admiral Don Pedro Portel de Cassanate. This man is em
powered to build and equip fleets, and make settlements in
California, and do such other acts as he may deem best calcu
lated to bring the natives of that country into the church. The

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFOR>IAS. 151
spiritual welfare of this expedition is committed to Padres
Jacinto Cortez and Andrez Baes, Missionaries. of Cinaloa.
Having arrived at Cinaloa, Cassanate receives instructions
to go out and meet the Philippine ship which it is feared will
fall into the hands of English or Dutch pirates. He brings
her safely in ; and while he is making preparations to sail
again to California, two of his ships are burned. Discourag
ing as this circumstance is, he resolves not to be defeated by
it. Two others are built at Cinaloa in 1647-8, in which he
sails to the place of destination. But he finds the country, as
far as he explores it, barren and dry. Before he completes
his survey, however, he receives orders to go a second time
and conduct a Philippine ship into Acapulco. This done, he
proceeds to lay the results of his expedition before the Viceroy.
This excellent man is soon after promoted to the Govern
ment of Chili ; and California is neglected till 1665, when
Philip IV. again orders its reduction. The execution of this
effort is entrusted to Don Bernado Bernal de Pinadero. But
the Spanish treasury is now exhausted ; the nation and its
colonies are impoverished. Two small vessels only, therefore,
are built in the Valle de. Venderas. In 1666 they sail to the
coast, rob the poor natives of some pearls, and make their
way back to report that expedition also, a failure. The Queen
mother, acting as Regent, orders Pinadero to make another
attempt. In this he is accompanied by the celebrated Padre
Kino. This likewise results in nothing valuable. In the fol
lowing year Francisco Luzenilla obtains a license for a voy
age at his own expense. This proves, like all others, fruit
less of results worthy of note. In 1667, the importance of
making a settlement in California for a rendezvous of ships
trading to the Philippine Islands, is again brought before the
Council of the Indies ; and it is finally determined to instruct
the Viceroy and the Archbishop of Mexico to send out Admi
ral Pinadero again, if he will give security for the perform
ance of that duty according to the decrees of Council; and if
he decline, to make the offer to any person who will under-
23

153 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
take it, at his own expense ; and if none so offer, it is ordered
to be accomplished at the expense of the crown. Admiral
Pinadero having refused, Admiral Otondo accepts the proposi
tion. The spiritual Government is conferred on the Jesuits.
Padre Kino as superior,* and Padres Copart and Goni accom
pany the expedition.
They put to sea from Chacala on the eighteenth of May,
1683, and in fourteen days reach La Paz. They think it
singular, on landing, not to see any Indians; but as soon as
they begin to erect a garrison, considerable numbers appear,
armed and hideously painted, who intimate by signs that the
Spaniards must leave their country. After some effort, how
ever, on the part of the Padres, and uniform kindness from the
officers, soldiers and seamen, their intercourse becomes
apparently unconstrained and friendly. Soon, however, cir
cumstances occur which arouse suspicion- The reported
murder of a mulatto boy, added to some indignities towards
the garrison, indicate the need of great watchfulness on the
part of the voyagers. Danger lurks near them. The Guaya-
curos among whom they sojourn, offer to unite with their
enemies, the Coras, for the extirpation of the Spaniards. The
Coras appear to entertain the proposition, but report it to the
Admiral on their earliest opportunity. The soldiers are thrown
into such a panic by the discovery of this plot, that the Admi
ral and Padres are obliged to exert all their authority and
persuasion to induce them to meet the event with fortitude.
The day of the intended massacre arrives. The Indians ap
pear, to the number of thirteen or fourteen hundred. A pa-
derero, or cannon, is fired among them, by which tenor
twelve are killed and several wounded. The remainder
retire in confusion to their rancherias. The garrison
is safe; no one even wounded. But this victory does
not discourage their fear of the Indians. The dry crags,
the treeless sands and thirsty torrent-chasms are, to the
anxious minds of the timid men, peopled with forms of death ;
and every howl of the lean wolf upon the heights, grates like

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 153
a coffin screw on their ears. Otondo is, therefore, obliged to
weigh anchor for Hiaqui on theiSenora shore. Here he sells
all his pearls, and pledges his plate for stores. Like a brave
man bent on his end, he seeks again the Californian shore,
and on the sixth of October anchors at San Bruno Bay, in
Lat. 26° 30'.
Oh the same day, Otondo, the three Padres, and some sol
diers, explore for freshwater, and find it in a narrow vale one
mile and a half from shore. Near this they establish a gar
rison, build a rude church, and some huts. And now Otondo
sends two ships to Mexico with an account of his proceed
ings, and a request for more money ; takes possession of the
country in the name of the king ; goes fifty leagues westward
in the month of December among mountains and desert vales ;
ascends an elevation, where he finds -several leagues of table
land, with a temperate climate and a fresh-water lake of
small size ; advances beyond, on a toilsome journey over steeps
and depths, in search of a peak from which to see the Pacific
Ocean ; fails to do so, and returns to San Bruno. The Indians
whom they meet are much delighted with the paternal kindness
of the Padres. Otondo employs himself a year in like ex
plorations at different points along the coast. The Padres
are busy meantime in learning the language of the Indians
and instructing them in the Catholic religion. They trans
late the Catechism, teach it to the children, and these in turn
teach it to their parents.' The voice of heathenism utters
prayers to Jehovah on the Californian mountains !
The Padres find no word in their language to represent the
resurrection of the dead. That idea has not existed in their
minds, and consequently has no expression in their language.
Resort is had to a very ingenious method of finding one
which will present it. Some flies are immersed in water un
til animation seems extinct. They are then placed among
ashes in the heat of the sun till restored to life. The In
dians who witness the operation cry out, Ibirauhueite ! Ibi-
muhueite ! This word or expression is afterward used to

154 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
represent the resurrection of the Saviour, and conveys to the
Indian a clear conception of that holy event. The Padres
instruct during the year four hundred adults and many child
ren, but baptize none except those who are at the door of
death. Some of these sick indeed, recover, and prove useful
teachers. Most of them, however, die, holding fast their
new faith. In these several ways do the priests and Otondo
consume the year. At its close, dispatches arrive from the
Viceroy requiring an account of proceedings, and forbidding
any farther attempts to be made for the conquest and settle
ment of California which should involve the Government in
expense.. On the reception of these dispatches a council of the Pa
dres and military officers is held, the determination of which
is, that a small ship shall be sent with dispatches to Mexico,
that the Padres shall continue to teach the Indians, and Oton
do to explore the country and pearl beds. In September,
1686, however, a peremptory order comes prohibiting farther
efforts at settling the country, and ordering, if possible, to
keep possession of what is already conquered. But it has
now become apparent that San Bruno must be abandoned.
No rain has fallen for nearly two years ; dearth, thirst, and
hunger, stand near them ; and to escape is the settled desire ,
of all, except the priests. These men of iron souls would
stay to teach the savage. But Otondo weighs anchor, and
with priests, soldiers, seamen, and three native converts,
squares his yards for the harbor of Matanchel, on the Mexi
can shore.
This is the last expedition of the civil power of Spain to
conquer and settle California. Padre Kino has begun to
conquer it with the Cross ; and we shall follow him in his
triumphs and trials while he achieves it. The professor of
Ingoldstadt, Padre Kino, the devotee of San Xavier, traverses
Mexico preaching to his brother Jesuits the glories of mar
tyrdom, and the rich reward of those who save from wo the
doomed and lost. In order to forward his zeal, he is ap-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 155
pointed to the eharge of the Missions on the Senora coast,
whence it will be easy to send supplies across the Gulf to the
more barren regions of ¦ the peninsula. Padre Juan Maria
Salva Tierra is designated to lead the way on the California
side. He solicits contributions ; obtains Padre Juan Ugarte, a
professor in the college at Mexico, as a fellow-laborer; fif
teen thousand dollars to be pledge^ the Society of Jesuits for
the enterprise ; ten thousand more to be given it as a fund
for one mission ; prevails upon the Commissary of the Inqui
sition at Queretaro, Don Juan Cavalero Y. Ozio, to subscribe
funds for two other missions, and obligate himself to pay what
ever bills shall be drawn on him by Padee Salva Tierra.
The license for the Jesuits to enter California is granted on
the fifth of February, 1627. The special warrants empower
ing Padres Kino and Salva Tierra to enter California are
subject to these conditions : that they waste nothing belong
ing to the king, nor draw upon the government treasury with
out express orders from his majesty ; that they take posses^
sion of 4"he country, and hold it in the name of the King of
Spain. The powers granted them in these warrants are, to enlist
soldiers at their own expense ; appoint a commander, whose
immunities shall be accounted the same as in time of war ; to
commission magistrates for the administration of justice in
California ; and discharge all these from their service at will.
With full powers both civil and ecclesiastical, therefore, and
the treasury both of the Inquisition and of many private indivi
duals to draw upon, Padre Salva Tierra goes from Mexico to
Guadalaxara ; thence to Hiaqui, in Senora ; and thence on the
tenth of October, 1697, with five soldiers, Estevan Rodriguez
Lorenzo, Bartoleme de Robles Figueroa, Juan Caravana,
Nicolas Marques, and Juan, with their commander, Don Luis
de Torres Tortolero, embarks for the scene of his future trials.
A great moral hero, with his little band, kneeling in prayer
on the deck of a galliot, bound for the conquest of California !
The sails are loosened to the winds ; they leave the harbor ;

J56 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC-.
but they have proceeded hardly a league, when a squall comes
on, which strands them on the beach. All now appear to be
lostl ' But they save themselves in the long-boat ; and when
the tide rises, the galliot floats again, and proceeds on her
voyage. A holy voyage is begun ; its consequences are full
of hope to man !
On the thirteenth they touch at San Bruno, in California,
and at San Dionysio, ten leagues south of San Bruno. At
the latter place, fifty Indians receive them with joy. A fine
watering-place, discovered in a deep and fruitful glen, indi
cates the place for an encampment. The provisions, bag
gage, and animals, therefore, are landed, and the barracks of
the little garrison built; a line of circumvallation is thrown
up, in the centre of which a temporary chapel is raised ; be
fore it a crucifix, adorned with a garland of flowers, is erect
ed ; and " the image of our Lady of Loretto, as patroness of
the conquest, is brought in procession from the galliot, and
placed with proper solemnity." On the twenty-fifth of Oc
tober, formal possession is taken of the country in the name
of the King of Spain.
Thus commences the religious conquest of California by
Padee Salva Tierra ; a voluntary exile from the highest cir
cles of European, life ; a great man, with a strong and kind
heart ; abandoning kindred, ease, and intellectual society, for
the well-being of the stupid and filthy natives of the Cali
fornian deserts.
The Padre now sends the galliot to Hiaqui for Padre
Piccolo, some soldiers and provisions. Meantime he applies
himself with unceasing assiduity td learning the Indian lan
guage and teaching religion. He pursues the same course as
he would with stupid children ; induces them to learn the
prayers and catechisms, by rewarding attention and industry
with something to eat. By thus addressing their strongest
propensity as a stimulant for the acquisition of knowledge,
he hopes to awaken and instruct their higher faculties of
thought and sense of right. In the latter he, for a time, fails.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 157
For thesavages, dissatisfied with the amount of food which
the Padre gives them, fall upon the animals of the post,
destroy them^ and steal corn from the sacks. Nor are they
satisfied with this. They meditate a general attack on the
garrison, in order to destroy or drive the people from the
country. The good Padre knows their designs, but continues
his kindness. Their insolence increases. On the thirteenth
of November, the tribes meet to strike a decisive blow.
Four savages come to the camp about noon, while the garri
son are eating. The sentinel tries tp- prevent their entering
the trenches, and one of the boldest of them deprives him of
the staff used as a halberd. The soldier cries out, and Tor-
tolero running up, wrests it from the Indian with such force
and boldness, that the invaders are frightened and retire. At
this moment the Indian Alonzo de Tepahui, who keeps the
swine and sheep in a valley overgrown with rushes and flags,
is assaulted by another party. But aid being immediately
rendered, himself and animals are saved. And now falls a
shower of arrows and stones from five hundred Indians, ad
vancing to attack the camp.
Ten men and one Californian Indian compose the garrison.
And how shall they be so detailed as to meet this numerous
force ? Tortolero, the acting commander, stations himself and
Bartoleme de Robles on the entrenchment facing the lower
part of the valley, the post of greatest danger ; on the oppo
site side are Juan de Peru and the Indian Alonzo de Tepahui ;
on the side looking towards the river, stands the bold and
active Indian Marcos Guazavas ; on the remaining side is
Estevan Rodrigues ; the Maltese Juan Caravana has the care
of the paderero, or cannon, placed at the gate of the camp ;
and near to him is Nicolas Marques, the Sicilian, as assistant
gunner ; Salva Tierra and Sebastien, his Indian, occupy the
centre, in order to give aid where there should be the most
need. The forces have barely time to make this disposition of
themselves, when the savages begin to advance on all sides,
with dreadful shouting and outcries. They are repulsed with as

158 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
little destruction of life as possible. Padre Salva Tierra de
sires that course to be pursued. The Indians return to the at
tack repeatedly for two hours, throwing stones, arrows, and
wooden javelins into the trenches, when suddenly the whole
body retreats and the action ceases. Half an hour elapses, and
they return reinforced, and press upon the trenches with rage so
fierce and deadly, that the hope of successful resistance with
out the paderero grows faint. The Padre, therefore, consents
to have it fired. The match is applied. But instead of de
stroying the Indians, it bursts in pieces and flies about the
camp, knocking Juan Caravana senseless to the ground.
The Indians against whom it has been levelled, perceive this
misfortune, and send notice of it to others with the remark,
that since the paderero does not kill, they need not fear the
smaller pieces. Of this they are the more persuaded, because
the Padre has ordered the soldiers to, shoot over them. And
the kind old priest, now that the Captain thinks it necessary to
fire into the Indian ranks, rushes between the guns and the
savages, beseeching them not to press on sure destruction !
Three arrows shot at him are the reward of his kindness.
Happily, the Padre is not injured. But he withdraws and
leaves them to their fate. And now they fall before the
muskets of the soldiers ! The wounded and dying groan on
every side ! A route succeeds ! They fly in confusion to their
villages !
Soon after, messengers of peace arrive. The first is a
Chief, He weeps; he talks in broken grief; he acknow
ledges himself the cause of these disturbances ; he first formed
the plot, inspirited and drew in the other tribes ; he and they
have sought vengeance ; but are now sincerely repentant
Next comes a band of women leading children. They seat
themselves at the gate of the camp, and weeping bitterly, and
promising good conduct for themselves and their husbands,
offer the children as hostages. The good Padre is greatly
rejoiced to see these signs of sorrow; explains to them

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 159
the wiekedness of their acts; and promises them peace,
friendship, and other good things, if their husbands prove
true to their league. And receiving one of the children in
order to remove all suspicion from their minds, sends them to
their friends and homes with shouts and other demonstrations
of great joy. And now night comes on in this vast waste of
burned mountains ! The little chapel is opened for worship.
Special " thanks are returned to God, His most holy mother,
and Saint Stanislaus for his manifold favors."
On examining the camp next morning, it is found " that
most of the arrows stick in the pedestal of the cross; whilst
the cross itself, and tent which serves for a chapel to ' our
lady of Loretto,' are untouched." None of the garrison are
killed ; two only are wounded. These are the brave Tortolero
and Figueroa ; and they adore the holy cross as the standard
of their faith ; " they sing Ave Maria to our lady as their
Captain, and unanimously determine to remain in the country."
This garrison is called Loretto. To it, for many years to
come, will centre the events of the country. Even how it is
a bright and lone starry point : the only lamp of truth that
burns, from Cape San Lucas to the north pole, is at Loretto.
The only civilized men that live on all that extent of coast,
breathe this first night after the battle, with their hands
clenched on their guns, in the tents of the garrison at Loretto
in Lower California !
On the twenty-third of November a long-boat arrives from
Senora with Padre Francisco Maria Piccolo — a missionary
among the Tarahumares, who has left his former field of toil,
for this new one in California. Padre Salva Tierra has, by
his arrival, a companion at his prayers, and in his labor among
these savages. The soldiers now erect some works of defence
within the camp ; the trench is enlarged and fortified with a
palisade and thorny branches of trees ; a chapel is built of
mortar and stone, with thatched roof, for the image of " our
Lady of Loretto ;" three other structures are raised, one for
the Padres, one for the Captain, and, one for a magazine; and

160 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
near to these are raised the barracks. The Padres employ
themselves with the Indians. A small tribe is allowed to take
up quarters near' the camp.
The native priests, perceiving by this movement of their
people, that their authority is diminishing, raise a party to op
pose the Padres. They steal a long-boat and break it in pieces ;
attack a party in pursuit of them, and are driven from the ground ;
repent, and are again received into favor by the forgiving
Padres. Don Pedro Gil de la Sierpe sends Padre Salva Tier
ra a bark called Sari Firmin, and a long-boat called San
Xavier. With these they bring wood, fruits, and horses and
cattle, from the opposite coast of Senora. The Padres under
stand the Indian languages ; they also have horses to bear
them in their travels ; and they undertake, in the beginning
of the year 1699, to explore different parts of the country.
Padres Salva Tierra and Piccolo visit a place called Londo,
eight leagues northward from Loretto. Here is found a
populous village and some tillable land. But the inhabitants
flee as the Padres approach. They call it San Juan de Lon
do. Next they attempt to penetrate Vigge Biaundb, lying
south of Loretto. On the tenth of May, the soldiers, after
much suffering among the rugged precipices, refusing to go
farther, Padre Piccolo determines to go alone, and climbs
the precipices till he comes to a village, where he is received
by the savages with the most cordial demonstrations of love.
He instructs them four days ; names the place San Xavier,
and departs. Some portions Of this mountain valley can be ir
rigated and tilled for grains and fruit trees. The neighboring
heights are craggy and barren ; about their bases are some
fine pasture lands.
From San Xavier, Padre Piccolo goes westward to the sea,
and explores its coast in vain for a harbor and habitable lands.
During this journey he discovers, four leagues southwest from
San Xavier, a large village of tractable Indians. They reside
on the head waters of a fine stream running westward into
the' Pacific; — a beautiful spot among a dreary desolation,

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 161
which he consecrates to San Rosalia. At San Xavier, during
his absence, the Indians and soldiers have built with sun-dried
bricks some small houses and a chapel. The Indians from San
Rosalia are there ; and Padre Salva Tierra consecrates the
Chapel to San Xavier, with great devotion and joy. This
done, Padre Piccolo is left in charge at San Xavier, and Pa
dre Salva Tierra returns to Loretto,
The shipping of the mission at this time consists of two ves
sels, the San Firmin and San Josef, and the long-boat San
Xavier. The number of settlers already in California of Spa
niards, half-breeds, and Mexican Indians, is six hundred per
sons ; and as the means of supplying them with food from the
country produce, has not increased in proportion, it becomes
necessary to redouble their diligence to obtain them elsewhere
From Mexico they can export nothing, for the Captain of the
Garrison at Loretto, having been prevented from using the
converts in the pearl fishery, and thus ruining their health,
and the Padre's hope of rearing them for Heaven, has, by his
misrepresentations of these benevolent men, rendered ineffec
tual Padre Ugarte's efforts in that quarter. Unfortunately also
at this juncture, the two ships of the California missions are
cast away ! Nothing is left them now but the long-boat !
Distress is creeping upon them ! The fearful, maddening ex
pectation of starving to death begins to be talked of in Loret
to, when Padre Salva Tierra takes the leaky long-boat and
goes to the great presiding genius of the missions, Padre Kino,
in Senora, for relief. These Padres are devoted friends. They
meet and embrace each other warmly, and relate, in the shades
of a beautiful evening, all the hardships which have befallen
them ; and the success that has attended their labors among
the savages. Padre Salva Tierra has reduced the Indians for
the space of fifty leagues about Loretto; founded four towns,
in which are six hundred Indian Christians ; two thousand
adult Catechumens, besides many children ; all of whom are
now starving !
Padre Kino entered Senora in 1687. He was appointed to

162 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the lonely missions in the neighborhood of the Indians in the
upper country, called Pimeria Alta, a district extending three
hundred miles to the northward of Senora, and embracing the
vallies of the Gila and the Colorado. He went alone among
these wild Indians; learned their language; formed them into
communities ; prevailed upon them to cultivate grains and raise
cattle ; and, by the aid of subordinate agents, has reformed their
civil polity; and indoctrinated them in the mysteries and
hopes of the Catholic faith. And such is the reverent love of
these savages for the excellent Padre that they greet him
everywhere as little children do a kind parent, who comes
to bless and love them. This influence he uses only for their
good. He procures from his Sovereign an edict against their
being seized by the Spaniards and immersed in the mines to
labor till dead ! He acquaints the Vice-Royal Government at
Mexico that the military powers often accuse them of rebel
lion, and make war upon them for the base purpose of taking
them captives to dive for pearls and dig in the mountains for
the precious metals, and procures a cessation of such barbari
ty. This is a great work of mercy. For previously, in all
those regions,, it has been customary for the civiF and military
authorities to make the Indians labor on the lands or in the
mines five years after their conversion. They pay for Chris
tianity in their hearts by the servitude of their bodies. And
seldom do the poor Indians live to be free again, after this
chain of avarice is put upon them. Very many are the clus
ters of little wooden crosses, near these mines, which stand
over the graves of those who have been worked to death in
their deep and dismal depths ! Padre Kino gives them liber
ty-; builds them houses and chapels ; teaches them agricul
ture and many, other useful arts. Their animals now range on
a thousand hills ; their ploughs turn the soil of a thousand
fields ; and their belfries send their peals for prayer and praise
up a thousand vales !
Such is the result of the labors of Padre Kino in Pimeria,.
and such the happy condition of the numerous tribes of In-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 1153
dians on the waters of the Gila and Colorado in the year 1700.
These Padres have wrought well in the vineyards of the Faith.
Arid they are now met to converse about the fate of these la
bors. They have learned that malice has destroyed their in
terest in Mexico and Spain. They know that the lives of the
garrison at Loretto depend on their sole energy and means.
And well would it be for the distressed everywhere if the re
lief which they need were dependent on such hearts and heads
as those of the Padres Kino and Salva Tierra. The Indian
farms are laid under contribution, and the keel of genuine
mercy is fast cutting its way to Loretto to feed the dying '
Words, wishes, speeches, associations, societies, general and
special committee rooms, and newspapers devoted to " the
eause," are the outlets and substance of benevolence in the
seventeenth century — an untiring chase after the shade of a
great idea. In the seventeenth, these hated priests of an
odious order, whose name has come to be the common term
of the most, refined knavery, and even introduced into our
lexicons as the appellation for the basest villany, perform acts
of the highest virtue, endure hardships of the severest charac
ter, and make sacrifices of the noblest nature* for a class of
beings who will never have intelligence enough to appreciate
them. After succors are sent to California, these Padres agree to
explore the northwest country* in order to ascertain whether
California be an island, or whether it be merely a peninsula.
This question is deemed of great moment to the missions in
California ; for if supplies can be sent by land from Padre
Kino's mission to Loretto, the expense of shipping to carry
them across the Gulf will be avoided, and the certainty of
their arrival much increased. Accordingly, it is agreed
that Padres Kino and Salva Tierra shall take differ
ent routes towards the Colorado. They determine to
visit, on the way, Padre Kino's converts at the several
missions in that region, and meet at Mission de Dolores.
Accordingly Padre Salva TiERRA,sgoes by San Ignacio,

164 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
San Diepo de Uquitoa, and San Diepo de Pitquin, to
river Caborca, and follows its course to Tibutama, Axi,
Concepcion de Caborca; while Padre Kino takes the
route by Cocospera, San Simon and Jude ; strikes the
river Caborca and follows its banks through Tierra Tibutama,
and other villages, to the place of rendezvous. Thence the
Padres, accompanied by ten soldiers, go northward to San
Eduardo de Baissia, San Luis de Bacapa, and thence twelve
leagues to San Marcello. This latter place lies northeast
from the mouth of the river Colorado; fifty leagues north' of
the latitude of the Gila, the same distance from the river Ca*
borca and the same distance eastward from San Xavier del
Bac. The soil of this valley is fit for tillage and pasturage,
and abounding in water for all uses. It is surrounded by
deserts and lofty mountains. Here they are informed by the
Indians of two ways to approach the mouth of the Colorado ; '
the one to the right over the mountains and valley of Santa
Clara, the other and the shorter along the coast over a broad
tract of sands. The Padres desire to examine the coastj
and for this reason, unfortunately, choose the latter route.
They travel thirty leagues on the south side of the mountains
in search of the Gulf; pass a large section of the mountains,
composed of pumice stone ; and on the nineteenth of March,
arrive at the Sandy waste. On the twentieth, Padre Kino
and Captain Mateo Mange, ascend a lofty peak in Lat. 30°
N, and not only see the Gulf but the opposite shore and
mountains of California. On the twenty-first they reach the
beach. Want of fresh water, and the difficulty of wading in
the looseand burning sand, compels them to return to Marcel
lo, and take a higher track, in Lat. 32° 30', where they ascend
a'hill of moderate height, from which are clearly seen the moun
tains of California, the termination of the Gulf, the mouth of the
Colorado, the junction of California with the continent ! The
Padre Kino joyfully returns to San Marcello to build a church
and give directions for a new mission, while Salva Tierra goes
to Caborca Delores and the other missions of Senora, collect-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 165
ing charities for California, and with heightened expectations
of saving the lives of his friends at Loretto, ships himself
and them in the old long-boat San Xavier at the mouth of
the river Hiaqui, and arrives at Loretto the latter end of
April, 1701. Joy fills the camp on the arrival of the good
Padre ; and earnest thanksgivings are offered in the chapel by
his. spiritual children on account of his return.
Here we leave California' for a brief space to follow good
old Padre Kino through the labors of his last days. In No
vember of 1701 he takes another' excursion to San Marcello
by a new route, and thence onward to the Gila. He fords
this river at San Dionysio near its junction with the Colorado ;
and having viewed the neighboring country, repasses the Gila
and descends the Colorado twenty leagues, among the villages
of the Yumas and Quinquimas. Here vast numbers of Indians
Come to see the Padre and hear him speak of the white man's
God. The Colorado at this place is two hundred yards wide.
The Indians swim it. If they desire to take anything across,
it is placed in a water-tight basket, made of rushes and herbs
called Corysta, and floated along before them. Padre Kino
crosses the river on a raft made of tree-tops, and finds on the
other shore, great numbers of Quinquimas, Coanopas, Bagio-
pas and Octguanes Indians, to whom he explains, by means
of interpreters, the nature of the true God and the after state.
He travels on foot three leagues to the. residence of the chief
of the Quinquimas. The country over which he passes is
level, and covered with a soil fit for tillage and grazing. He
calls the place Presentation de Nuestra Senora. In this neigh
borhood he sees ten thousand Indians, Padre Kino is Very
desirous of travelling to Monterey and Cape Mendocino.
But it being impossible for his animals to ford the river, he
reluctantly gives up the hope of progressing farther, and
returns to his missions in Pimeria.
In February, 1702, Padre Kixo journeys in company with
Martin Gonzales. On the.twenty-eighth they arrive at San Dio
nysio, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado. On the way

166 SCENES 'IN THE PACIFIC.
and at this place the Indians throng the path of this good man,
kneeling like children to a loved grandsire for a blessing.
In March they advance as far as the village of the Quin
quimas, and name it * San Rudesindo. These Indians show
much love towards the Padres," and even towards the beasts
that bear them. The good Padre Gonzales is affected to tears
by these demonstrations ; and strips off a p:art of his own
wardrobe to clothe an aged man who follows him. They
now travel down the Colorado to its entrance into the Gulf.
Here many^ Indians come from the western shore and entreat
the Padres to pass over into their country. They learn from
them that the Pacific is ten days' journey from this place. The
night of the tenth is spent at the point where the river and the
Gulf meet. The tide rises very high and swashes near their
couches ; horned night-Owls hoot on the crags ; Padre Gon
zales groans with extreme illness ! These Padres have de
signed to cross the river at this place, and travel over the
mountains to the Pacific Ocean. But Padre Kino sees the
necessity of returning with his sick brother. He succeeds in
getting him to the mission of Tibutama, where he dies.
Death in the wilderness, to one who goes into its depths to
sow the seeds of salvation, is sweet. The desires of the mind
touch the earth lightly. Their objects are things of thought
and trust. The hand of hope is laid on the skies ! The eye
follows it to the temple of immortal faith; is absorbed and
fixed there, to the exclusion of everything material. The
pains incident to the separation of the living principle from
the body, are like brambles which one passes to fields of
flowers and fruits, singing birds, pebbly streams, and odorous
shades. And the grave itself becomes in truth the pass-way
only to the full enjoyment of the proper objects of the moral
sense, without limit or satiety. So this missionary dies, and
is buried among the graves of Indian Christians at Tibutama.
The years 1703, 1704, and 1705, Padre Kino spends in
building up the missions of Pimeria, and in resisting the per
secution raised against him because he will not permit the

' JS
TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 167
owners of the mines and plantations to enslave his converts.
Having no one to assisLhim in so wide a province, he is al
most constantly travelling from one mission to another, ex
horting, encouraging, disciplining, and protecting his spiritual
children. These duties task severely the tottering strength of
the good old man. But he labors without . intermission or
discouragement, as he ripens for his reward. Nor does his
ardent interest in the Californian missions abate. Every few
months he forwards to Loretto his largesses of provisions and
animals. But as the expense of supporting shipping for that
purpose becomes more and more apparent and perplexing, he
determines once more to attempt an exploration of a land
route, by which supplies can be sent from the mission on the
Gila down the coast to Loretto. Accordingly, in 1706, he
turns his footsteps again towards the Colorado, in company
with the chief military officers of Senora, and the Franciscan
monk, Manuel de Ojuela. This last expedition of Padre
Kino results in confirming his previous discoveries. But be
ing unable to penetrate to Loretto, he returns to his missions,
and defends them with the same dauntless courage against the
avarice and cruelty of the miners, and the civil and military
powers, till 1710, when he passes from the scenes of his be
nevolence and trials to his grave.
There are few good men in the world. Consequently, when
one of this class dies, there is a jewel lost from the crown of
earthly virtue. ALL feel the loss of its light, and grope
nearer to the ground in their way onward to their destiny.
Padre Kino has given his best energies to the Pimerian and
Californian missions. The poor Indians on both sides of the
Gulf have been accustomed to eat his bread and receive his
blessing. The bells now toll through all Pimeria and Senora,
at Loretto and San Xavier. The Indians kneel in their rude
chapels, and pray for his soul, and invoke for him the good
fellowship of departed saints. Padre Kino is buried among
the heights of Pimeria, the scene of his trials and hopes. His
grave is lost among the driving sands of those desolate re
gions ; but his good deeds will live for ever
25

CHAPTER X.
Meeting of Padres Salva Tierra and Ugarte — A Plot— Burning of San
Xavier — Ugarte at San Xavier — Famine — A Runaway — A Murder —
A Campaign — Rejoicings — A Tempest — An Arrival of Food and Sol
diers — Measures for the Advancement of the Conquest— Exploration of
the Interior — Sacking of San Xavier — Massacres — A Court Martial—
An Execution — Peace — Expedition to the North — Distress — A Council,
and its Results — Endurance — Roaming and Starving — An Attack —
Salva Tierra leaves California — His Return — Extension of the Con
quest — Ligui, and a great Example — A Chastisement — A murderous
Attempt — Mulege — Cada Kaaman — The Triumph of the Good — Poi
son — Death.
During the absence of Padre Salva Tierra in Pimeria,
Padre Ugarte has arrived at Loretto with a few supplies.
The meeting of these two men in that distant land is warm
and hearty. They have labored long in the same cause —
have hoped ardently for the same result — the growth of the
tree of life on the shores of California. The one has used
his utmost energies at Mexico and Guadalaxara to procure
the means to support the other, while breaking up the ground
and casting in the seed. And when all his efforts are closing
in disappointment, and the dark night of malice is casting
gloom over them, and his expectations are giving place to
despair, he flies to his fellow-laborer in the wilderness, to die
With him, if need be, in a last struggle to bring the Californian
Indians within the fold of the Catholic faith. After thanks
are rendered to God for the favor of meeting again, the Pa
dres earnestly resolve to sustain the sinking missions. It is
agreed, therefore, that Padre Piccolo shall go to Mexico and
make farther trial to obtain funds for that purpose. He ac
cordingly puts to sea, but is driven back by a tempest ; and
again he leaves the harbor, but is again compelled to return.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 169
These unfavorable trials induce him to postpone his voyage
to a more favorable season. He returns, therefore, to his
mission at San Xavier, and Padre Ugarte remains at Loretto
with Padue Salva Tierra, to learn the Indian language, and
assist wherever his services may be needed.
Another class of events now transpire which change some
what the aspect of affairs among them, and give hope of
better things. The military commandant, who has, by his
misrepresentations, rendered abortive the efforts of Padre
Ugarte, at Mexico, finds that the authorities will not relieve
him from subordination to the Padres, and resigns. Captain
Don Antonio Garcia de Mendoza is therefore succeeded by one
Isadore de Figueroa. This man, however, proves unworthy
of his trust in a difficulty with the savages of San Xavier.
The Indians of that mission plan the murder of Padre Piccolo.
And led on by the conjurors, or priests of their old religion,
they come down upon the few converts who remain faithful,
with such violence as to get possession of the premises ; and
enraged at the Padre's escape to Loretto, burn the mission
buildings and furniture. A number of the converts have been
killed in this outbreak ; the fields of San Xavier, the only
grounds within the limits of the missions on which grain can
be grown, are laid waste ; the success of the savages in this
instance will embolden them to attack Loretto. All these,
as reasons, determine the Padres to send Captain Figueroa
with his soldiers, to chastise them and recover the mission.
Accordingly he marches his troops to San Xavier. The In
dians flee before him. The soldiers desire to pursue them.
But the commander forbids it ; and otherwise shows such a
want of courage and manliness, that the soldiers depose him,
and elect in his stead, Don Estevan Rodriguez Lorenzo,
who leads them in pursuit among the breaks of the moun»
tains ; but without success.
At the end of this year, 1700, Padre Ugarte having learn
ed the Indian language, and the Indians of San Xavier having
become satisfied and peaceable, it is resolved to rebuild the

170 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
mission and put it under his charge. Accordingly he leaves
Loretto for that purpose. But on arriving there, the Indians,
through fear of the soldiers that accompany him, run into the
mountains. The Padre, nowise discouraged by this circum
stance, takes up his quarters on the site of the burned mission,
and awaits their return. Meanwhile the soldiers, not having
Indians to serve them, prove troublesome. They abuse the
Padre and one another in such manner that he determines
to trust himself with the Indians, rather than any longer
suffer their insolent behavior; and accordingly sends them
back to Loretto. After the departure of the soldiers, Padre
Ugarte remains alone all day about the ashes of the mission
and the graves of those who were killed at the time it was
destroyed ! He does not know how soon they will fall upon
him likewise? and take his life. Night comes on and passes
away ; and he is yet alone. At daylight a little Indian lad
comes shyly, about the Padre's couch ; is treated kindly by
him ; examines the fields, and hastily returns to his tribe :
and shortly afterward the good Padre is surrounded by hun
dreds of Indians rejoicing at his arrival, and protesting that
soldiers are disagreeable members of their community. The
Padre and the Indians now unite their energies to rebuild the
mission. The first labor of Ugarte is, to secure their regular
attendance on the catechising, the prayers and mass ; and by
kind and affable treatment, to alienate them from their sorcer
ers ; the second is, to accustom them to till the land and take
care of the cattle. To accomplish these objects he induces
them early in the morning to attend mass ; after which he
feeds those who will engage in erecting the church or clear
ing the land for cultivation, or making trenches for irrigation,
or digging holes for planting trees, or preparing the ground
for sowing seed. In the progress of these labors the good
Padre works more than any of them. He is overseer, brick
layer and farmer. He is first in bringing stones, first in
treading clay for mortar, in mixing sand, cutting, carrying,
bringing timber, removing earth and fixing materials ; some-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 171
times spading up the ground, sometimes splitting rock with
a crowbar, sometimes turning water into the trenches, and
at others leading the beasts and cattle, which he has procured
for his mission, to pasture and to water. By his own ex
ample he teaches them to throw off their natural sloth, to feed
themselves and live like rational beings. But this great ex
ample does not suffice to wean them from a love of the woods,
and a listless and starving inaction. A thousand times they
try his patience, by coming late to mass and to work, and by
running away and jeering him, and sometimes threatening and
forming combinations to take his life. All this the old man
bears with unwearied patience, kindness, and holy fortitude.
In the evening the Padre leads them again to their devotions.
At this time the rosary is prayed over, and the catechism ex
plained ; and this service is followed by the distribution of
some provisions.
At first these Indians jest and jeer at the service, and mock
at what he says. This the Padre bears patiently, till he finds
forbearance increases the evil, and then makes a very dan
gerous attempt to suppress it. An Indian in high repute
among his fellows for physical strength, stands near him
during service, and mocks at all that he does. The other In
dians, regarding bodily strength as the only quality of great
ness, are vastly pleased that their champion seems the superior
of the Padre. Ugarte perceives by their bearing, that he is
losing their confidence. He therefore seizes the savage, in
the midst of his profanity, by the hair of his head, and swings
him to and fro, with determined violence, till he begs for quar
ter. This so frightens the tribe that they afterwards behave
with strict decorum when engaged in religious duties. The
work of building the mission edifices, however, goes on slowly.
The Padre, careful not to weary his Indians with labor, at fre
quent intervals instructs their stupid minds in the best methods
of performing their tasks, and most especially, in the know
ledge of their Maker. In succeeding years he enjoys the
pleasure of seeing his neophytes well instructed in the doc-

172 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
trines of the Catholic Church, inured to patient labor, and
residing in comfortable houses. He has turned the mountain
streams along the crags, and changed the barren dust of the
mountains into cultivated fields, burdened with harvests of
wheat, maize, and other grains. He even makes generous
wines, sufficient to supply the missions in California, and an
overplus to exchange in Mexico for other goods. He like
wise breeds horses and sheep, cattle and mules. Indeed, such
is the success of Padre Ugarte's fortitude and industry, that
in 1707 he becomes the Purveyor-General of the missions,
and relieves them by the produce of his converts' labor, from
some of the fears of starvation on that desolate coast.
Thus has this excellent man, in the course of seven years,
opened, by his individual influence on the Californian Indians,
a large plantation, the products of which, in favorable seasons,
feed thousands of savages and seven hundred whites. His
efforts now take another direction. His sheep, brought origi
nally from the opposite coast, have increased to such an ex
tent, as to yield large quantities of wool. This the Padre
determines shall be made to clothe his naked Indians. He,
therefore, with his own hands, makes spinning-wheels, looms,
and other weaving apparatus, and teaches his Indians to use
them. In order to perfect them in these manufactures, he
obtains a master weaver, one Antonio Moran, from Tepic,
under a salary of five hundred dollars per annum, to instruct
them in weaving, and various other handicrafts. By these
new manufactures, the missions are saved vast expenses for
sail-cloth and baize. The Indians are clad ; the grains and
vegetables, although not a full supply, are ordinarily suf
ficient to prevent famine. The cattle and the other animals
being added to these, suffice to meet the necessities of the
Californian missions. A deed of true benevolence performed,
where,human praise can never speak of it, is a jewel in the
crown of our nature, which can never be dimmed. How it
beams on the robes of the good man as he steps into his
grave ! How it glistens in the tear of silent gratitude that is

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 173
shed over the tomb of the dead, as ages crumble it into dust !
How rich a halo does it throw back on all after time, a rem
nant light of Bethlehem's holy star, to lead the living to the
same happy use of their capacities ! These Indians' 'remote
descendants will forget this good man. But his deeds will
live in their virtues.
We will now look into the movements of Padres Salva
Tierra and Piccolo. Near the end of the year 1701, the pro
visions which Padre Kino has sent to Loretto, are exhausted,
and Padre Piccolo's departure to Mexico for a supply is has
tened. He sails on the second of December, leaving the Pa
dres, the garrison and Indians in absolute want. For sixty days
they subsist on roots, wild fruits, and a few fish which they
find washed up on the shore. On the twenty-ninth of January,
1702, however, their distress is changed to gladness by the
arrival of a boat from Padre Piccolo, laden with meat, maize,
and other provisions. This supply, in the bountiful hands of
Padre Salva Tierka, lasts but a short time ; and want returns
upon them with all its horrors. At length the last filthy piece
of meat is consumed, and they betake themselves, Indians and
Padres and garrison, to the shores for fish, and to the moun
tains for Pitahayas and other fruits and roots. Amidst these
sufferings occurs a difficulty with the Indians. A soldier by
the name of Poblano has married one of the Indian converts.
In the month of June her mother visits her and invites her
home to the joyful ingathering of the Pitahayas. They go
away in the night unperceived, and run to the mountains. The
next morning the soldier pursues them a limited distance, but
returns unsuccessful. A day or two afterwards, he goes with
a Californian Indian near a village, where they hear a great
deal of shouting and merriment. An old Indian, whom they
meet, advises them to return, because their lives will be en
dangered by proceeding. The soldier insults the old man and
shoots him. The noise of the discharged musket rouses the
village, and the soldier dies, pierced with arrows. His Indian

174 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
companion is wounded, but brings to Loretto information of
this misfortune.
The Padres of San Xavier return to Loretto, and prepare to
march in pursuit of the murderers. The Indians, learning
this movement, gather all their forces and destroy the corn
fields of San Xavier, and a few goats, on whose milk the Pa
dres are subsisting, during this calamitous famine. The sol
diers arrive in time to prevent the destruction of the buildings.
At length the parties begin to skirmish, and four of the
Indians are killed. But their numbers and violence increase
daily. The troops suffer incredible hardship among the preci
pices, and breaks of the mountains. Distress and consterna
tion are beginning to seize them. Death is looked for as
inevitable. But they rejoice again; they breathe freely
again ; a bark comes over the tranquil and heated sea, with
provisions and a recruit of soldiers ; and runners are sent from
Loretto to San Xavier, to give all a speedy share of the joy
ful news ; they eat and drink again in the Californian missions !
The Indians are intimidated by the arrival of fresh troops,
and submit ; and the grateful Padres give thanks to God in a
solemn Te Deum for this unexpected deliverance.
Great anxiety is felt in California for the fate of Padre
Piccolo. No tidings of him have been received since he left
the port of Loretto. He has, however, arrived safely at
Cinaloa, about the first of February, 1702, and sent them
supplies ; has hastened thence to Guadalaxara and Mexico ;
by indefatigable exertions has obtained six thousand dollars
from the Government for the payment of soldiers; and
having collected charities from a few individuals, has pur
chased goods for the relief of the most urgent necessities of
the missions ; has obtained a guarantee of Don Josef de La
Puente Marquis de Villa Puente, for the support of three new
missions ; and from Nicolas de Arteaga, an offer to support
another ; and from the Government, six hundred dollars per
annum thereafter ; has secured the appointment of two Padres,
Juan Manuel de Bassaldua and Geronimo Minutili, as mis-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 175
sionaries to California ; and has purchased- a vessel at Aca
pulco, called Nuestra Senora del Rosario ; has embarked at
Matanchel with his goods, provisions, his brethren, and some
artisans, for Loretto. Fine breezes bear them into the Gulf;
then a tempest swoops down upon them and compels them to
throw overboard that part of the cargo which is stowed on
deck ; but helping gales bear them to their destined port,
on the twenty-eighth of October, 1702.
And now again the cross is raised before the people ; the
lofty anthem of thanksgiving swells up the parched moun
tain, and every knee bows to God and Senora de Loretto.
Most of the garrison had been discharged for want of money
to pay their wages ; few have remained to protect the Pa
dres. Joyfully now do they all gather about Padre Piccolo,
with warm effusions of thanks for his expedition, and engage
anew to bear arms, and beseech the mercies of God for the
missions of California. This reinforcement of troops, arti
sans, and Padres, and the supplies of provisions and money,
and the guarantees for the support of four new missions, and
the promised annuity from the Government, encourage Padre
Salva Tierra to form higher designs for the enlargement of
his operations. To effect them in the best manner, he con
fers with all the Padres on the best measures ; and the con
clusion is, that Padre Ugarte shall go to Senora and procure
cattle for breeding, and horses and mules for draught and rid
ing ; that Padre Minutili shall remain at Loretto with Padre
Salva Tierra ; and that Padre Bassaldua shall accompany
Padre Piccolo to San Xavier, where he may learn the Indian
language, and otherwise prepare himself for future labor. In
obedience to these determinations, Padre Ugarte sails in the
beginning of November; but after being absent a few days,
is driven back by contrary winds. In December he sails
again, and happily arrives at Guaymas, Pimeria, in February
1703. He reappears at Loretto with a fine quantity of black
cattle, sheep, horses, mules, and provisions.
In March of this year, Padre Salva Tierra re-commencea
26

176 SCENES IN THE PA..IFIC.
exploring the country. He takes with him the Captain and
some soldiers, and proceeds to San Xavier, where he is joined
by Padres Piccolo and Bassaldua. Thence they travel with
great difficulty over the thirsty mountains to the Pacific, and
search the coast far northward for a . harbor, fresh water, and
tillable land. None is found which will shelter ships from
the prevailing winds. Some land, with a good soil, is dis
covered ; but the absence of water for irrigation renders it
useless. By going south, however, they fall upon the little
river San Xavier. Here they find a few Indians who, after run
ning away, are persuaded to show themselves friends. On
their return these Padres pass two rancherias, the inhabitants
of which they induce to move nearer to Loretto. This jour
ney proves fruitless. They have discovered no suitable place
for the establishment of a new mission. In May, they
make another, in search of a river emptying into the sea
one hundred and twenty miles north of Loretto. Having ar
rived near Concepcion Bay, they fall in with a large ranche-
ria of Indians, who seize their bows and arrows and come
out to destroy them. The Californian Indians, however, who
are acting as guides to the Padres, explain the benevolent
object of their visit; and all are received as friends, and
treated with the kindest hospitality. These Indians inform
the Padres of a large tract of crags and abysses lying be
tween them and the river that they seek, which it is impos
sible to pass, and they return to Loretto.
A dismal misfortune now falls on California. Some Indi
ans arrive at Loretto full of fright and sorrow, from whom the
Padres learn that the wretch who formed the last conspiracy,
the murderer of the soldier Poblano, and incendiary of the
mission of San Xavier, has fomented discontent, assembled
the rancherias, and massacred all the adult converts at San
Xavier, except the few who have escaped to Loretto. This
sad news determines the Padres and the Captain to punish
those factious individuals, in such a manner as to prevent such
outrages in future. Accordingly the Captain and soldiers fall

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 177
on the conspirators at night, kill a few, among whom is one
of the most active in the massacre ; but the leader escapes.
The Captain, however, declares he shall die. But the rough
ness of the country prevents pursuit. Another means of
arresting him is adopted. The Indians are told that they
shall never have peace until they surrender this chief of vil
lains, and in a few days he is brought into the mission of San
Xavier. A court-martial is now called, and the culprit ar
raigned, tried, and condemned to death ! The Padres inter
fere to save him. But the Captain will not yield. The pri
soner confesses that he intended to destroy all the converts
and the Padres ; that he has burnt the chapel and the images ;
that he has had a chief hand in the murder of Poblano ; that
he has been inducing the Indian women to marry the soldiers,
in order to have more killed in the same manner ; and the
Captain will not release him from the punishment which he
deserves for such terrible acts and intentions. All the Padres,
therefore, gather at San Xavier to attend the last hours of the
miserable man. They teach him to look at the fearful scenes
which will break on him when the spirit's eyes open on eter
nity ; exhort him to kiss the cross of redemption and lift his
love to him who bled upon it for sins like his. He is taken
to the plain in chains, blinded, made to kneel down and is
shot ! This is the first execution for a capital crime in Cali
fornia. Its influence is salutary. The Indians become peace
able, and regular in their duties.
The Padres make use of restored peace in exploring the
country to find sites for new missions. The river Mulege, at
the north, is visited by Padres Piccolo and Bassaldua in the
bark San Xavier. They find arable land on its banks, a
league in width, which appears suitable for a mission station.
They therefore proceed to Senora to obtain riding 'animals
wherewith to explore the southern shore for a land route to
Loi'etto. Having returned, they descend the coast a few
leagues, where a range of dry volcanic heights arrests their
progress, and compels them to abandon their design, and re-

178 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
embark for Loretto in the San Xavier. On their way, they
put into Concepcion Bay which lies south of the opposing
Mountains ; send the bark to Guaymas for supplies ; go by
land along a path partially cleared by the preceding expedi
tion ; arrive at a valley which they call San Juan de Londo,
where they meet Padre Salva Tierra; and thence pro
ceed in great haste to Loretto. Misfortune calls for their
sympathy. An ordinance has been issued by the Viceroy at Mexico,
prohibiting any one from engaging in fishing for, or trading
in, pearls, on the Californian coast, without a license from the
Government, countersigned by the military commandant at
Loretto. The object of this regulation is to prevent avari
cious individuals from drawing the Indians away from the
missions; an evil which the Padres have long endeavored to
extirpate. But notwithstanding this regulation, two vessels
have come upon the coast without license, and are fishing off
Loretto, when a tempest breaks them from their moorings and
strands them in the bay. The crew of one of them, seventy
in number, are saved, and fourteen of the other succeed in
gaining the shore. These eighty odd men the Padres clothe
and feed a whole month, — the time required to get their ships
off and repair them, — when the one with seventy souls sails for
Mexico. This unexpected draught upon the small stores of
the missions bears so heavily upon them, that the arrival of
Padre Piccolo from Senora, with the bark partially laden with
provisions, barely saves them from starvation. Near the
close of the year the twelve survivors of the other crew are
taken to the continent by Padre Minutili, who has been
appointed to the missions at Tibutama. But their presence
for so long a time at the garrison has greatly increased the
sufferings of all the stations. It is now 1704, the seventh
year of the religious conquest of California. It seems to be
the last of the missions. The Padres have labored inces
santly. Many of the natives have been baptized, and are
becoming accustomed to labor. The lands are somewhat

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 179
productive, and the manufacture of cloth is considerably ad
vanced. Their attendance on the ordinances of religion
gratifies the Padres, and civilisation seems to be taking root
among these savages. But as the converts increase, the num
ber of persons to be fed and clad are multiplied. And as the
necessities of these grow, the hopes of a proper supply be
come more precarious. The vessel in which grains are to be
brought from the opposite coast requires overhauling before
she can put to sea. Without her the money for the pay
ment of the garrison cannot be obtained from Mexico. But
as the Padres have no means of repairing her, Padre Bassal
dua, for life or death, sails in her towards Mexico, and Padre
Piccolo, with equal self-devotion, embarks for Senora in the
leaky and shattered bark San Xavier.
The mission of San Josef, on the continent, has been an
nexed to the Californian missions, in order that the Padres
may use its resources for a uniform supply of provisions and
animals. The brave Padre Piccolo is passing now between
this station and Loretto, with all possible speed and activity.
But the little provisions he is able to collect, ill suffice the wants
in California. And as this little is often spoiled in the leaky
boat before its arrival, starvation is again expected at Loretto.
Meantime Padre Bassaldua arrives on the coast of Mexico with
his creaking, leaky vessel; proceeds to Guadalaxara and Mexi
co ; urges the execution of the Royal Orders for the support
of the mission. ; is unsuccessful ; collects enough to repair his
vessel ; procures a small supply of necessaries from benevo
lent individuals ; sails in company with Padre Pedro Ugarte,
who has been appointed to fill the place of Padre Piccolo,
and in the latter part of June rounds into the bay of Loretto,
to add to the number of the desponding and starving ! The
Padres send the vessel and the bark to the continent for pro
visions. But the shattered condition of these craft, and the
northwest gales, twice oblige them to put back empty. And
when at last they succeed in making the voyage, little relief
comes of it. There is a want of every necessary of life

180 S.CENES IN THE PACIFIC
among the Padres and soldiers. The latter complain that
their certificates of services sent to Mexico have not been
honored ; and the former see that some decided step must be
taken either for the salvation or abandonment of the missions.
Padre Salva Tierra calls together the Padres and the Cap
tain, and another officer of the garrison, to deliberate, and
informs them that they can expect no speedy relief from
their friends at Mexico ; that he cannot more clearly depict
the melancholy condition of their affairs than their common
sufferings do ; that he is summoned to Mexico to confer
concerning the execution of the Royal Orders for the relief of
the missions ; but that he will not leave California until the mis
sions are either relieved or destroyed. He desires, however,
that others will fully deliberate, and freely determine whether
they shall all remain there, and suffer for the glory of God, or
go to Mexico, and await a more favorable juncture for renew
ing the conquest. He himself is ready to eat the wild fruits,
and in other respects fare as the converts do, rather than
abandon them. Padre Ugarte opposes leaving the country.
Padres Piccolo, Pedro Ugarte and Bassaldua agree with him :
and the Captain declares that he is astonished to hear a pro
position of the kind ; that he will solemnly protest against
the Padres, if they should abandon the conquest. Neverthe
less, notice is ' given to the people, that whoever will, may
embark in the vessel going to Mexico, and that bills shall be
given them for the arrears of their wages. But instead of
embracing the offer, they all refuse to leave the Padres. The
fear of an insurrection among the soldiers on account of the
non-payment of wages and want of food being removed,
the Padres dispatch the vessel and the bark to Guaymas for
supplies. While they are waiting for these, P adre Ugarte
sets an example of patience and fortitude. He goes into the
. mountains and woodlands, gathers the wild fruits and digs
edible roots, reminds his spiritual children of the death in
Canaan, and God's goodness to Jacob — while the soldiers
- and officers vie with the good man in all his works of love.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 181
The Padres do not abandon their determination to found
the other missions, for which funds have been promised.
With this design in view, and also to bring new matters of
interest to the minds of the distressed people, Padres Salva
Tierra and Pedro Ugarte visit the district of Ligui, lying on
the coast south of Loretto. A single soldier and two Indians
accompany them. As they approach the village, many In
dians rush from an ambush and begin to fire their arrows at
them with great fury. The soldier, Francisco Xavier Va-
lenzuela, draws his scimitar and brandishes it briskly in the
sun with one hand, while with the other he fires his mus-
ketoon in the air. These movements so frighten the savages
that they throw their weapons and themselves on the ground,
and allow the whites to approach them. The two Indians
interpret for Padre Salva Tierra. He assures them that he
comes only to do them good; that he has brought Padre
Ugarte to live with them as a father, who will lead them to a
happy futurity. On hearing this, they affectionately embrace
Padre Salva Tierra, and bid their wives and children to
come from their hiding-places. The Indians are sad that the
Padres do not remain longer with them, and can only' be
comforted by a strong promise that Padre Ugarte will soon
return. They baptize forty-eight of the children, and depart
for Loretto. , f
In the month of August, of this year, the vessel and bark
return from Guaymas with provisions. Close upon this happy
event, follows another, which causes much grief to the Padres
and the Indians. Padre Salva Tierra is appointed visitor to
the missions of Cinaloa and Senora. The prospect of losing
the society and fatherly love of this great and good man,
causes deep sorrow among all ranks. He is also called to
Mexico by order of the Viceroy, to attend an assembly to
be soon convened by command of his Sovereign, in which the-,
propriety and possibility of executing certain royal orders
concerning the conquest and settlement of California are to
'be discussed. Before he departs, he consecrates the new

182 SCENES I N Tk H E PACIFIC.
church at Loretto, and appoints to the command of the garri
son, Juan Baptiste Escalante, as distinguished warrior, against
the Apaches on the Gila, and Nicolas Marques, as Lieutenant,
to fill jespectively the places of the worthy Captain Estevan
Lorenzo and Ensign Isidro, who, to the sorrow of the Pa
dres, have resigned their posts on account of some bitter feel
ings towards them among the soldiers
These matters being settled to the satisfaction of all parties,
he appoints Padre Juan Ugarte to the supreme government of
the garrison and missions, and on the first of October sails for
the continent. He goes to Guadalaxara, confers with the Audi
encia of that department, passes on to Mexico, and finds him
self appointed Provincial of New Spain, and missionary of
California. The good Padre, overwhelmed with this unex
pected distinction, urges, with sincerity and zeal, his unfitness
for the office, and his desire to labor and die a simple mis
sionary among his Californian Indians. But the Padres assure
him thatf the rules of his order will not permit him to decline ;
and persuade him, that under so good a man as Provincial,
the church will cheerfully further his pious desires for the
conversion of the Indians of California. The Padre Jdan
Maria de Salva Tierra, therefore, in hope of bettering the
condition of his converts in that forlorn wilderness, enters
upon the duties of Provinical Bishop of New Spain.
Padre Salva Tierra in his official character communicates
with the Viceroy, and lays before him his views of the proper
measures of his Government for the furtherance of the mis
sionary enterprise in the territories under his charge. He
states, generally, the advances of the Spanish power in those
vast realms by means of the Jesuits, and that in order to hold
these conquests, the power by which they have been obtained
must still be exercised. The honor and benefit of the Crown
and of the Catholic Church demand this of his Excellency's
Government. He is favorably heard, and all classes of peo
ple second his views. But the delay and selfishness which
have ever characterized the Spanish power in America and
4-*

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 183
elsewhere press on the track of the good Padre,' and he is
forced to leave Mexico on a visit to the churches of his Dio
cese, without any decided assurances that his views will be
acted on. The poverty of, the Crown, while half the world is
digging gold and silver for its coffers, is an additional cause of
this inaction.
We next find Padre Salva Tierra, in 1705, appealing to
the Jesuit College and the Audiencia of Guadalaxara, to suc
cor the missions. Soon after this he lands at El Mission del
Nuestra Senora de Loretto, amid the general joy of the Pa
dres, soldiers and Indians. To the latter, particularly, he has
been a father ; and they dance and shout around him in an
ecstacy of gladness to see again his grey ..head and benevo
lent face.
The Padre finds his brethren in great wretchedness, but full
of unwavering determination to carry forward the work which
he has so valorously begun. Padre Piccolo, who has been ap
pointed visitor of the missions of Senora, in order that he may
have authority and opportunity to draw provisions more regu
larly for those of California, has been forwarding at intervals
whatever he could gather from those poor establishments.
But this has been sufficient only to prevent starvation or the
abandonment of the country. However, the missions still
exist, and the venerable Padre Salva Tierra is happy. Their
discomforts have been much increased during his absence by
the growing tyranny of Capt. Escalante, who has become im
patient of his subjection to the Padres, and abusive to the In
dians and soldiers. An account of this state of things having
been forwarded during the Padre's tarry there, he has brought
with him Dpn Estevan Rodriguez Lorenzo to supersede Esca
lante — an arrangement which results in much satisfaction to
the missions.
The Provincial remains two months in California-; but he
does not excuse himself from his usual arduous labors. His
new dignity furnishes no pretext for idleness. He bends all'
his energies to the well-being of the natives ; takes measures
27

184 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
for the establishment of two new missions ; the one at Ligui
and the other at the river Mulege. The small number of his
associates, however, is an obstacle to the accomplishment of
his wishes. There are but three Padres with him. One of
these is required at San Xavier, and one at Londo. This dis
tribution will leave but one to take care of the magazines,
disburse the stores, nurse the sick, and perform the spiritual
functions at Loretto — a task which no single man can per
form. Accordingly, Jayme Bravo, the lay companion of Pa-
dee Salva Tierka, is induced to take upon himself the tem
poral affairs of the garrison and mission, and thus leave the
Padres free to pursue their religious labors. This arrange
ment being made, the Provincial departs for Mexico about the
last of November, 1704, and the Padres Pedro Ugarte and
Juan Manuel de Bassaldua commence the exploration of the
new stations. The former goes twelve leagues south, to Li
gui, and the latter forty leagues north, to the river Mulege ;
while Padre Juan Ugarte takes care of the missions at Loretto
San Xavier and Londo.
The Ligui Indians are found to be peaceable, but so ex
tremely indolent that the Padre can get no help from them in
the construction of the mission buildings. His ingenuity^ and
patience, however, are equal to his necessities. He feeds the
boys of the tribe with sweetmeats, makes them small presents,
and by his paternal address, soon attaches them so strongly
to his person, that they follow him wherever he goes. He
resorts to many artifices to habituate them to labor ; lays
wagers with them on their comparative dexterity in pulling
up bushes, removing the earth from the sites of the buildings,
and challenges them to dance with him on the clay of which
the bricks are to be made. The boys sing and poach the mud
with their feet, and so does the Padre. And in this way he clears
his ground and erects the buildings of his mission. He also
teaches these boys the Spanish language, and they teach their
own to him. He explains to them the catechism and prayers,
and they do the same to their parents. Thus, with untiring

Indian Sorcerer. — P. 185.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 18£>
patience, firmness and labor, does he bring the mission of San
Juan Baptista into form, and its Indians under his control
And not these only ; but going many miles into the woods
and the breaches of the mountains, he gathers in the wan
dering, feeds and clothes them, and teaches them to till the
ground and live like men. At last he succeeds in humaniz
ing the greater portion of these rude people. They call him
Padre, follow him to the labor of the field, and gather about
the altar in his humble church to worship. All are industri
ous, well-fed, well-clad, and happy.
As the Padre, however, is felicitating himself on these
results of his labors, an accident occurs which well nigh ruins
all. He is called to baptize a sick woman, with whom he
finds an old sorcerer employed according to their ancient cus
toms. The Padre bids him depart, administers extreme unc
tion to the woman, remains with her till death, buries her
according to the forms of the church, and after reprimanding
severely the converts who have lent their sanction to the jug
gler, dismisses them with much indignation. This severity of
the Padre rouses the sullen fierceness of the Indians to such
extent that, instigated by the disgraced sorcerer, they form
the design of murdering him. They use the utmost secrecy,
and make death the penalty of divulging their purpose. The
Padre always has a boy sleeping in his apartment ; and when
at length the night of the massacre comes, this boy desires
that he may be allowed to spend it with his friends, the Indi
ans. The Padre objects ! The boy urges ! The Padre in
quires the reason ; and the boy, after much hesitation, tells
him, " Because, father, this night they are going to kill you !"
On hearing this, he sends for some of the chief ones, and
with a resolute and dauntless air tells them, " I know you
have formed the design to kill me this night. But remember !
With this musket I will, when you come, slaughter you all."
Having said this, he quickly leaves them full of consterna
tion at what they have heard.
Oppressed with fear, they retire to their associates in the

186 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
design ; consult much, and at last conclude to seek safety
from the Padre's musket in flight. In the morning their
lodges are deserted ; not an Indian is in sight of the Mission
San Juan Baptista Ligui. On the following day the Padre
goes out to seek his lost flock. They are found hidden
away among the cliffs, and flee at his approach. After con
siderable parleying, however, they are convinced that the
Padre seeks their good alone, and return to the mission tho
roughly persuaded that he loves them, but can never be made
to fear them.
This excellent man continues at his mission, enduring every
privation, till 1709, when the severe fatigues of years weigh
him down and compel him to seek health in Mexico. Thither
he goes in the character of negotiator and procurator of the
missions. No sooner, however, does he recover his health in
a tolerable degree, than he returns and resumes his labors.
But illness again compels him to leave this inhospitable
shore for the mission at the River Yaqui, on the opposite
coast, where he makes Himself useful as an agent and pur
veyor-general for California.
But let us follow the Padre Juan Manuel Bassaldua to the
River Mulege. He starts in 1705, and with great difficulty
surmounts the crags as far north as Concepcion Bay. Here
his progress is arrested by hills to all appearances in
surmountable. But " trial before despair" is the Padre's
motto. He fills ravines with rocks, and cuts away the woods;
and after incredible labor, passes his animals over to Mulege.
There is a valley near the mouth of this little stream ten
leagues in length, suitable for tillage. In this, two miles from
the Gulf, he locates his mission, and consecrates it to Santa
Rosalia ; builds his dwelling and church of adobies ; remains
four years ; collects the Indians from all the neighboring set
tlements ; instructs them in religion and the useful arts ; and
so endears himself to them, that when his health fails, and he
is transferred to Guayraas, the poor savages find it difficult to

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 187
discover in his successor, the excellent Padre Piccolo, his
equal in kindness and active benevolence.
Padre Piccolo exerts in this new field all his well-tried en
ergies. Besides his labors as a spiritual teacher, he travels
into the interior several times in search of proper sites for
new settlements, and discovers those places which are after
wards occupied by the missions of Guadaloupe, La Purissima
Concepcion, and San Ignacio. In the year 1718 he surren
ders his charge to Padre Sebastian de Sistiaga. This Padre
digs trenches to convey the waters of the river over the
fields, and in other ways improves the facilities for training
those active and intelligent children of the desert to the habits
of a better life.
On the sixth of November, 1706, Padre Piccolo, three sol
diers, and some Mulege Indians, with two asses bearing their
provisions, journey westward towards the country of the North
Cochimes, which is called Cada Kaaman, or Sedge Brook.
It lies on the skirts of the mountains, thirty-five leagues, by
the vales, from Santa Rosalia. On the third day he is met
by a whole settlement of Indians, in a valley which, on a
former visit, he has named Santa Aguida. These poor peo
ple express great joy at seeing the Padre again, and follow
him to the neighboring rancherias, called Santa Lucia and
Santa Nympha. In these places also he is greeted most
kindly, and desired to remain. On the nineteenth of Novem
ber he arrives at the head springs of the brook which waters
the vale. Here he finds three considerable neighborhoods of
savages, who welcome his coming with feastings, dances, and
songs, in which those from Santa Lucia, and Santa Nympha
join with exceeding delight. He remains at this place until
December, comforting and teaching them. A large arbor is
built by the willing Indians, in which mass is celebrated. The
neighboring villagers forsake their homes to attend upon the
Padre's instructions. Fifty mothers eagerly offer their child
ren in baptism. And now he departs, followed by a large
crowd of people, who mourn that he leaves them ; and pre-
28

188 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
ceded by others who shout their gladness among the parched
hills, that he journeys towards their villages. They clear the
path before him of stones and other obstacles ; present him
with strings of wild fruit to eat ; and bring him water from
the stream to drink.
While these new missions are in progress, the old ones, at
Loretto, San Xavier, and Londo, are slowly advancing in com
fort and usefulness. Nor are the Padres in charge of them
idle in making explorations for other establishments.
In 1706 Jayme Bravo, in company with the Captain, seven
soldiers, and some Indians, goes to San Juan Baptista Ligui,
and having felicitated Padre Pedro Ugarte upon the happy
beginning of his mission, passes along the shore towards the
south. He has travelled a clay and a half, when an Indian
brings word that four of his soldiers are dying ! Jayme Bravo
and the Captain return, and find that one of them has found
a fire where some Indian fishermen have been roasting a spe
cies of fish called Botates, the liver of whioh contains a very
active poison. This soldier communicates the news of food
at hand to his fellows, and they hasten to devour it. A
friendly Indian warns them not to eat. But the soldier who
first discovered the fire replying, " None of your noise, Indian ;
a Spaniard never dies," eats plentifully and gives to his com
panions. One of them chews and swallow's a little; another
chews, but does not swallow ; the other merely handles and
views the fish. Well would it have been if they had regarded
the caution of the Indian : for in a very short time they are
all seized with convulsive pains more or less violent, accord
ing to the use they have made of the fish. The first expires
in half an hour. He is soon followed by the second ! The
third, who merely chewed the fish, remains insensible till the
following morning ! The man who only handled them is
in a very bad condition for several days. This misfortune
obliges the explorers to abandon their enterprise. They re
turn to Ligui to bury the dead in the consecrated grounds of
the mission, and send their sick to Loretto.

CHAPTER XI.
Padre Juan TJgarte and Jayme Bravo explore the Pacific Coast — Dearth
—Thirst— Padre Salva Tierra— A Tempest— Landing at Loretto—
San Josef— Wrecked — Padre Salva Tierra goes to the Rescue— En
ergy — Suffering— Die by Thousands — "Wrecked — At Sea in a Long
boat — The Limit of Despair — They toil on— The Guaycuros— Massa
cre — San Ignacio — Padre Salva Tierra leaves California — Death of a
Hero at Guadalaxara.
Meantime Padre Juan Ugarte prepares to reconnoitre the
coast of the Pacific. The chief of the Yaqui nation waits on
him with forty of his warriors. The Captain, with twelve sol
diers and some converts, is at his command for the same duty ;
the beasts and provisions for the journey are ready ; and Padre
Juan Ugarte and the layman Bravo, on the twenty-sixth of
November, 1706, leave Loretto, with their troops and pack
animals divided into three companies, on their wearisome way
over the western mountains. Their march lies through the
Mission of San Xavier and the' Indian village called Santa
Rosalia, and from that point passes over the dry and herb-
less waste of heights and vales to the sea. Here they meet
several hundred Guaycuros, who^are friendly to them. Thence
they march southward many leagues, and find no water in all
the distance except in little wells dug by the Indians. They
then turn their course to the north. They march all day over
burning sands, famishing with thirst, and halt at night near the
channel of a dry rivulet. Thence they send men a few leagues
farther up the shore, and others up and down the thirsty
channel, in quest of water. They all return to camp with
out success. Next they disperse themselves in every direc
tion to find a plat of low. ground where they may dig wells,
but find none. As a last resource, they now let loose their

190 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
animals, that they may, by their powerful instincts, find means
of quenching their thirst ; but all these contrivances are vain.
They kindle a fire to keep themselves warm, and, weary and
famishing, stretch themselves on the sand for the night.
In the morning Padre Ugarte greets the rising sun with the
services of Mass ; and while they sing the " Litany de Seno
ra de Loretto," an Indian calls out in the language of his
people that he has found water ! With solemn gratitude they
dig into the oozing soil; they obtain a supply for themselves
and their animals ; and having filled several vessels to serve
them on their return, offer a service of thanksgiving to the
Virgin, and commence their journey to Loretto.
While the Padres are thus employed in establishing mis
sions and exploring California, Padre Salva Tierra is ear
nestly petitioning the Pope to discharge him from the office of
Provincial Bishop of New Spain. He desires to spend his
declining years among the Indians of California. In 1706
his discharge comes ; and with inexpressible pleasure does
the good old man collect supplies of clothing, provisions
and ammunition, for the mission. He is joined by two other
Padres, Julian de Mayorga and Rolandegui. To their
care he commits the stores, with directions to repair to the har
bor of Matanchel and await the arrival of the bark which is
to take them to the peninsula. The Padre himself goes by
land four hundred leagues along the coast to the harbor of
Akomi in Senora, for the purpose of collecting free contribu
tions from the missions in the regions through which he jour
neys. About the first of January he sails for Loretto. He has a
long tempestuous voyage. "This night," says he, "the
thirty-first of January, was extremely dark. We were with
the mast lashed, and without a rudder ; and amidst rocks and
islands ; the sea continually making a free passage over us ;
the sailors spent with toil and hunger, having been without
food for a day and a half, were prostrate, giving up all for
lost. The least damage we could expect was to be driven

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 191
into the sea of Gallieia or Acapulco. ' Tnstissima noctis
imago.' The Californians got about me like chickens, and
they were not my least confidants, as being new-born sons of
the Great Madonna, and had run this risk in her service. Af
ter all my journeyings and voyages, I never knew what dan
gers or distresses by land or sea were, until now." They are
driven by this horrible tempest into the bay of San Josef, thirty
miles south of Loretto. On the third of February, the storm
abating, they run up to the desired haven, and are received
with universal gladness.
In 1708, Padres Salva Tierra and Juan Ugarte go with
Padre Mayorga into the midst of the mountains to an Indian
settlement called Comondu, and invest him with a mission
there under the name of San Josef; and after having aided
him in gathering the Indians, building a chapel, and some
bough huts, they return to Loretto. Padre Mayorga forms
some neighboring Indians into two towns which he calls San
Juan and San Ignacio ; builds a fine church at the former
place ; opens a school for boys at his own house ; erects a
seminary for girls ; builds a hospital for the sick ; prepares
maize fields at San Josef, and plants vineyards at San Juan
and San Ignacio.
Many other fertile spots are discovered among the deserts
of California, soon after Salva Terra's arrival, suitable for
the establishment of missions. But misfortunes by sea and
land retard their occupancy. The following is an instance of
this kind. The bark San Xavier sails from Loretto in August,
1709, with $3,000 in specie, to purchase a supply of pro
visions in Senora. A storm of three days' continuance drives
it on a barren coast, north of Guaymas, where it is stranded
among the sands and rocks. Some are drowned ; others save
themselves in the boat. Hostile Indians, called Seris and
Tepocas, fall upon those who escape and drive them to sea in
the open boat ; dig up the $3,000 which they have hidden in
the sands; take the helm from the bark, and partly break it
in pieces for the nails.5 The crew in the boat encounter very

192 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
many dangers in their perilous voyage to the south. Storms
overtake them. Tlieir boat becomes leaky. They have no
water. They live, however, to reach the river Yaqui, sixty
leagues frorn the wreck; From this place a pearl-fisher's
bark is sent to Loretto with an account of these disasters :
Padre Salva Tierra hastens over in the Rosalia to Guaymas ;
sends her to a port near the scene of the shipwreck ; dis
patches the bark San Xavier to the vessel, while he himself,
attended by fourteen Yaqui Indians, passes up the rugged
coast by land ; is two days without a drop of water ; and at
last arrives at the wreck. The San Xavier's men are merely
sustaining life on boiled herbs. He sends to the nearest mis
sion for food by an Indian, who succeeds in passing through
the hostile Seris and Tepocas, with a small supply. This
does not suffice. Death is near them, when the indefatigable
Padre determines to journey through bands of murderous sav
ages to the harbor of San Juan Baptista for help !
He has not travelled far along the coast when he arrives at
a settlement of Indians, who come out against him under arms.
They are led by an old man, who urges them on with terrible
vociferations. Nothing less fearful than death seems promised
in their present situation. But the Padre, with his usual in
trepidity, advancing alone towards them, makes some small
presents to the old man and his son, which, accompanied by
signs and kind gestures, soften their ferocity a little, when to
their surprise and joy they hear the guns of the Rosalia ! The
explosion of these cannon is new to the Indians — they
think it the voice of avenging gods — they immediately run
away and bring to the Padre food, and $3,000 which had
been taken from its place near the wreck. The Padre thus
unexpectedly recovers his lost money, and the means of con
tinuing the lives of himself and men.
The Rosalia anchors near the disabled San Xavier ; and
the provisions on board for a time relieve the distressed work
men, seamen and Padres. But as two months are consumed
in refitting the wreck, they are again4 often in want. The

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 193
missions of the region afford them occasional aid; but the
dearth which has pervaded the country during this year, so far
disables these establishments from furnishing adequate supplies,
that Padre Salva Tierra sends a messenger to the distant
mission garrison, ninety miles up the country, called Nuestra
Sennora de Gaudalupe, begging the Captain Don Francisco
Xavier Valenzuela to send them food. This excellent man
immediately despatches what succors he can command ; and
soon after comes in person with some of his men and a more
liberal supply.
When he arrives, such is the distressed condition of the
Padre and those with him, that this commander and his vete
rans seat themselves on the beach and weep. After a 'con
tinual repetition of trials like these, during two sultry months,
the San Xavier is afloat, and the brave Padre sails his vessel
to the Californian coast ; visits the Padre Piccolo at Santa
Rosalia Mulege, and encouraging that lonely priest in the
prosecution of his holy labors, drops down to Loretto. Soon
after his arrival the small pox, that exterminator of the In
dian race, sweeps away the greater part of the children and
many adults, in all the missions. The garrison also suffers
very much from irregularity of diet consequent upon the pre
carious means of supply, and the necessity of living in that
sultry climate, on salt meat and maize. All these sicknesses
and deaths the Indians attribute to the Padres. Their children ,
say they, are killed by baptism ; the adults with the extreme
unction ; and the soldiers are made sick by continual expo -
sure to the malign influence of prayers, masses and the exalt
ation of the Host. These suggestions are raised by their old
sorcerers, and threaten to embitter the Indians fatally against
the Padres. But the neophytes stand by their Priests, and
convince their countrymen of their error.
From 1709 to 1711, a famine spreads over the entire Mexi
can Territories, and California consequently obtains no sup
plies from that source. The distress of these years is so ex
ceedingly great, that the Indian neophytes betake themselves

194 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
to the mountains, and live on roots and wild fruits ; while the
soldiers of the garrison eat herbs with the self-denying Padres :
and to complete the misfortunes of this devoted country, two
barks used in bringing a little food from Senora, are cast
away. In 1711, Padre Salva Tierra sends Padre Francisco Peralta,
who arrived in California two years before, to Matanchel to
repair the old Rosario. But the frauds practised by the work
men consume many thousands of dollars, and make the bark
so miserable a thing, that in its first effort at sailing it runs
ashore in spite of the helm, and is utterly lost. They now
build a new one, at an expense of $22,000. In this, then,
laden with supplies, they put to sea. But a storm rising, the
ill-built craft proves to be unmanageable, the sport of the
waves and winds. She is driven to Cape San Lucas and
back again to the isles of Mazatlan. Here some of the sailors
forsake her; others remain on board, and after many difficul
ties, take her in sight of the coast of Loretto. A storm now
drives her ashore on the opposite coast. It is the eighth of
December. The night is terribly dark and tempestuous.
Four seamen clear away the small boat, and regardless of the
lives of the others, shove off. Those who are left hang to
the main and mizen masts surging in the seas ! PadreBensto
Guisi and six seamen are drowned. Padres Guillen and
Doye, and twenty others, with the greatest difficulty, un-
lash the long-boat, bail out the water with two calabashes,
and throwing aboard a piece of an old sail and some bits of
boards for oars, commit themselves to the mercy of the waves
In the morning they find themselves several leagues from land.
They row down the coast a day and a half, and after a bois
terous night land three hundred miles south of Guaymas.
Eighteen persons, naked, wet, pierced with cold, exhausted
with rowing, without food or water, with the single comfort
of having escaped, death in the sea, land on a barren waste
interspersed with fertile tracts overrun with briars and bram
bles. They gather oysters, wilks and herbs to eat, and

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 195
march into the interior to find inhabitants. As they break
their way, the brambles and briars lacerate their naked bodies.
Two days of agony from this, cause and from hunger and
thirst, bring them into an open plain, where they are found by
Indians. These they induce to give information of their pre
sence and sufferings, to the commander of the town Tamasula,
who visits them with horses, water and maize cakes, for their
relief. From this town they go to Guazave, the nearest mission in
Cinaloa, where they fortunately find Padre Francisco Maza-
regos. This Jesuit Missionary entertains them in the most
liberal manner. The briars of the rugged path over which
they travelled, have torn, their clothing from their backs;
and this holy man calls upon his Indian converts to contribute
of their means, while he himself bestows his own wardrobe,
to clothe the naked sufferers.
Having been refreshed by rest and food, and once more
clad, they leave the hospitable Padre of Guazave for the town
of Cinaloa. Here also they are generously entertained by
Padre Juan Yrazoqui, until each departs to his appointed sta
tion. Padre Guillen is roused instead of discouraged, by
these hardships. Like all those great spirits who are sowing
the gospel on the deserts of California, his sinews become the
stronger as they are worn by hardship. He travels over the
deserts to the missions at Yaqui, and in the month of January,
1714, sails to California in the good old San Xavier.
The missions are again entirely dependent upon this bark
for the transport of supplies; the loss in New Rosario, of
the commodities and clothing, on which the Padres, seamen,
and soldiers depend to sustain life, no money left, no clothing,
no food, the only sea-craft in their possession unsea worthy,
and no means of repairing her, on a desert land and among
hostile Indians kept in subjection chiefly by the supply of
their physical wants, now impossible to be done, are the dis
couraging circumstances which weigh on the heavy hearts of
the Padres. But who shall set bounds to the power of mora]
29

196 SCENE3 N THE PACIFIC.
motive, when linked with zeal drawn from faith in God 1
These Padres look for death, but they desire to die, sickle in
hand, reaping the harvests of redemption! They toil on;
they gather wandering Indians into towns ; instruct them,
thirsting and starving a part of each day, and spending the
remainder among the mountains and forests, gathering here
and there a dried root, or a bunch of wild fruit, to eat.
Padre Ugarte is even not content with these labors, but
makes exploring tours among the Indian settlements south of
San Xavier. Wherever he goes they throng his way, ask for
the baptism of their children and the establishment of missions
among them. It is 1712, and Padre Piccolo, though in bad
health, imitates the zeal of Padre Ugarte. With the Captain,
a few soldiers and Indians, he travels westward from Santa
Rosalia Mulege, crosses the mountains of, Vajademin, finds
beyond them a small clear brook ; follows it to the sea, ex
amines the barren coast about its mouth, ascends a little
stream about twenty miles ; erects a cross and devotes the
neighboring grounds to a contemplated mission. While he
remains here many hundred Indians come in from the neigh
boring settlements, beseeching the Padre to remain with them,
and as an inducement to do so, promise to give him their best
wild fruits and feathers, and devote their children to the
Catholic faith. He agrees to send them a Padre to instruct
them more fully in religion, and returns to his station.
The vessels used by the people of the opposite coast in
fishing for pearls bring a scanty supply of provisions. The
Padre and people clothe themselves in the skins of wild
beasts, and continue their labors. In the year 1716, Padre
Salva Tierra sails south in a brigantine called Guadalupe,
to La Paz, in order to make peace with the Guaycuros, who
still retain an unfavorable remembrance of Admiral Otondo's
ill-advised conduct, and the constantly repeated injuries of the
^earl fishermen. He is accompanied by three Guaycuri
prisoners taken from the pearl fishers, whom he is carry
ing back to their homes.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIF 0-R SIAS. 197
When he enters La Paz bay the Loretto Indians leap over
board and swim ashore ; the Padre, Captain and soldiers fol
low hastily in their boats; but do not arrive in time to
prevent the Loretto tribe from such warlike demonstrations as
put the Guaycuros to flight. They flee, leaving their wive.
and children to follow after at a slower pace. The Lore'ttt
Indians- do not regard the orders of Padre Salva TieRrA
but led by savage impulse, fall upon the hapless women am
children. These attempt to defend themselves with stones
But they must have perished had not the Captain and the
nimblest of the soldiers arrived at the commencement of ths
infamous encounter. The unoffending creatures are saved ;
and wailing horribly, follow their cowardly fathers and hus
bands. This unfortunate event tries exceedingly the good Padre
Salva Tierra. He sorrows that his benevolent designs should
terminate in an outrage upon those whom he comes to cherish.
But it is apparent that this rashness of the Loretto Indians
repders useless any attempts at friendly connections with the
Guaycuros. He therefore distributes to the prisoners from
the pearlfishers' vessels, some agreeable presents, explains to
them, that his object' in visiting their countrymen was to re
store themselves to their homes, and enter into friendly rela
tions with the Guaycuros nation, and dismisses them with
such other marks of his good intentions as will open a proba
bility of successful negotiation with their countrymen bn
another occasion. He; returns to Loretto with a heavy heart :
and sends the brigantine to Matanchel for goods and pro
visions. A furious storm strands it ; the vessel and cargo are
a total loss; and nine persons are drowned. Thus death
again thins the ranks of the Californian missions ; want and
nakedness stalk among them ; and the old San Xavier, after
eighteen years' service, is the only sea craft connecting them
with the continent and with life. Amidst all these difficulties,
however, the untiring Padres found the mission of San Igna-
ck 'n the Cada Kaaman, or the vale of the Sedge Brook.

S98 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
It is now eighteen years since Padre Salva Tierra landed
in California and erected the cross at Loretto. His labors
have been arduous and unremitted. His trials by shipwreck
and tempests, by progresses over mountains and deserts, by
hunger and thirst, by arrows and Indian knives; by endu
rances of all kinds, have whitened his hair, withered his
bones and muscles, made his steps unstable and his head
tremble at the throbs of his heart. He feels, that the holy
water must soon fall on his coffin lid, and California be de
prived of his services. It is the year 1717. He is at Loretto,
with little to eat, and badly clad, and scarcely able to walk
or stand. But he teaches the children— exhorts the adults to
the service of God, and superintends every particular move
ment of the garrison and the mission. In March, Padre
Nicholas Tamaral, appointed to the proposed mission of- La
Purissima, arrives at Loretto, bringing letters from the reign
ing Viceroy of Mexico, in which among other matters it is
stated that the King has forwarded important instructions rela
tive to advancing most efficiently the spiritual conquest of
California, together with a summons that Padre Salva Tierra
shall immediately repair to Mexico to aid in devising the best
means of effecting that object. Disease, pain, want and
danger present no obstacles to this aged Patriarch, when the
interest of his missions calls upon him for action. He im
mediately determines to go to Mexico. Accordingly the
government of California is committed to the wisdom of Padre
Ugarte, and on the 31st of the same month of March, the
good Padre and Jayme Bravo sail for Matanchel.
Nine days' passage brings them to the desired port ; they
take mules for Tepic ; the good Padre suffers greatly at
every misstep of his animal; they arrive at Tepic; the Pa
dre is in extreme torture ; but tortures cannot deter him fron
his holy labors; he is too weak and too much racked witl
pain to mount a horse or mule, and is therefore borne in
litter on the shoulders of Indians, to Guadalaxara. Here his
illness increases so that he can proceed no farther. He is

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 199
lodged in the college of Jesuits. The Padres are in attend
ance upon him. Two months of agOny wear toward a close ;
and death begins to chill his limbs, glaze his eyes, and Ghain
his utterance : and when he can no longer stir, he calls to him
his faithful companion, Jayme Bravo, and in the most earnest
manner, giving him instruction and powers for acting in his
stead at Mexico, commends him and his beloved missions to
the guardianship of Heaven. And now a hero dies ! Not
one who has swung the brand of war over the villages and
cities of nations; not one who has crushed the hearts of
men, yoked them in bondage, and severed every tendril of
mercy and justice from the governing powers; not such a
hero as men will worship ; but a great and good man,
offering life and every capacity of happiness within him
~ to the well-being of savages in a barren waste of mountains ;
a hero in the heavenly armor of righteousness, endur
ing fatigue, hunger, thirst, and constant danger among the
flinty, un watered wastes of unthinking and uninstructed hu
man nature ; a missionary of a Californian wilderness !
All the people of the city and neighboring villages crowd to
the college, and kneel through the streets and alleys, on the
balconies and roofs of the houses, and pray for the repose of
the departed soul of Padre Salva Tierra. There is no noise
in Guadalaxara, nor business ; it is a city of prayer : they
come one after another and kneel and pray, and silently
retire ; thirty thousands of people beseech Heaven with one
earnest desire — that he whom they have loved, he who has
labored so ardently in propagating the faith, may find a man
sion of repose and reward in the upper world ! Some Culi-
fornian Indians, whom he has brought with him, exhibit
extraordinary grief; the whole city assists at the interment ;
they bury him in the chapel he has erected many years ago
to the Virgin of Loretto. And thus end the mortal part and
mortal deeds of Padre Salva Tierra. But his remembrance
is written in the imperishable record of those great minds

200 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
who have conquered nations with the sabre of truth, and led
them to a more intelligent and happy condition.
Jayme Bravo, after the burial of Padre Salva Tierra, pro
ceeds to Mexico, lays the condition of the Californian mis
sions before the Vice-Royal Council, obtains an appropriation
of four thousand dollars for the building and equipment of a
vessel for the mission service, three thousand and twenty-two
dollars for discharging the debts due at the death of Padre
Salva Tierra, and eighteen thousand two hundred and
seventy-five dollars for the pay of the soldiers and sailors.
While these things are transpiring in Mexico, a terrible hur
ricane, accompanied by violent rains, sweeps over California.
Padre Ugarte's house, and the church at Loretto, are levelled
to the ground ; and the Padre himself stands by the side of a
rock exposed to the tempest for twenty-four hours. At San
Xavier, the channels used for irrigating the lands are filled
with stones, and the water thrown in torrents over the fields.
Both soil and. sprouting crops are carried away. The
same misfortune occurs at Mulege. The blasts of the tem
pests are so terrific at the garrison, that a Spanish boy named
Matheo, is taken up in one of their gyrations and never seen
more ! Tornadoes of this kind are frequent in California
But the Padres have seen none equal to this for violence ard
continuance. What little soil has been found in the country
has been dislodged and swept into the sea ; the country
is laid waste; its rocks are bare; its plains and vales aire cov
ered with heaps of stones.

CHAPTER XII.
Padre Bravo in Mexico— Return to California— First ship built in North
west America— Expedition to the Guaycuros— Nuestra Sennora del
Pilar de la Paz— Founding Nuestra Sennora de Gaudalupe— Burning
of Idols— A Famine— Locusts— A Pestilence— The Dying— Explo
rations by Land and Sea— Indian Country— Dreadful Sufferings-
Tempests— Water-Spouts— Return of the Explorers.
Tnus stands the condition of the Californian missions in 17 1 1.
More than five hundred thousand dollars of private benefac
tions have been expended upon ' them ; and the twenty-five
thousand more lately granted by the governmentj have been
invested, and chiefly lost in disasters by sea and land. Now
the crops are destroyed, and the utter annihilation of these es
tablishments is anticipated in the course of the year.
But Jayme Bravo is in Mexico. He collects a few provi
sions and goods, and accompanied by Padre Sebastian de
Sistiaga in a Peruvian vessel presented to the missions by-the
Viceroy, arrives at Loretto in July; 1718, and gives new
energy to the missions. The founding of the San Miguel by
Padre Tamaral, in 29P and odd minutes N. among the moun
tains near the Gulf, is one of the features of returning hope.
Soon after this Padre's arrival at his station, two neighboring
settlements of Indians are baptised. After this he, with innu
merable hardships, crosses the mountains to the settlement of
the Cadigomo tribe. Here he meets with the Indians from
the settlements of La Purissima Concepcion, and accompanies
them home. He finds the soil of their fields washed away by
the late tempest, but determines to establish the mission La
Purissima among them. And after years of toil, the zealous
man builds a parsonage and church, brings several maize
lelds under cultivation, opens a mule track over the moun-

202 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
tains to the mission of Santa Rosalia, and extends his jurisdic
tion over forty settlements, situated within a circuit of ninetv
miles around him.
Many years ago the Philippine Islands were discovered and
settled by Spain. Soon a considerable trace sprung up be
tween them and the Spanish possessions in Mexico. Indeed
the products of the Philippine Islands destined for old Spain,
are landed at Accapulco, carried across the country on mules,
and reshipped for Old Spain at the port of Vera Cruz. The
passage from these islands to the Mexican coast is made, for
the greater part, through the Chinese seas, to latitude 30° N.
Here voyagers fall in' with the variable winds, which take them
to the American coast, between latitudes 30° and 40° N. At
this point, during the spring, summer and autumn, they meet
the northwesterly winds, which drive them down the coast
to Accapulco. In these early times navigation is imperfectly
understood. That ocean too is chiefly unknown. Naviga
tors are not familiar with its currents, and consequently every
voyage across its trackless waters is hazardous and prolonged.
And when they reach the American coast, the crews are sick
with the scurvy ; and they should land for a supply of fresh pro
visions. But while no harbor is known, from Cape San Lucas
to the remote north, at which wood, water and other necessary
relief can be had, the ships are obliged to keep down the coast
to Mazatlan, Accapulco, or some other port, before they make
,heir first landing, after leaving the East Indies ; a distance of
more than eleven thousand miles. And when they arrive at
these ports, it frequently happens that nearly all the crew are
irrecoverably diseased, or dead. In order to avoid this dread
ful evil, the Spanish crown has often ordered the missionaries
to explore the coasts for a bay surrounded by a country suita
ble for the settlement of a colony. This they have often at
tempted, but the want of proper animals in their progresses,
and the miserable character of the craft used in their voyages
have thus far prevented the attainment of their wishes. But
Padre Ugarte now determines to survey both the Pacific and

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 203
Gulf coasts of the peninsula. His means are so small, how
ever,, in every respect, that his brethren do not perceive how
he will do it. He wants provisions, men and a ship. And
such is the condition of public feeling in Mexico, and such the
difficulty of journeying there, that he cannot hope for aid from
his friends in that quarter. But who knows the wealth of
exhaustless energy ! Padre Ugarte will build a ship in Cali
fornia ! ! He has, however, neither plank, timber, sails, nor
rigging, tar, nor any other necessary materials for such a
work; nor has he either a builder or shipwright, sawyer, or other
naval artificers ; and if he had, there is no food for their sup
port ; and worse than all, he has no money wherewith to sup
ply any of these deficiencies. But the Padre says the King's
orders must be obeyed ; that this cannot be done without the
ship ; and therefore the ship must be built irrespective of
means. The sufferings of his fellow beings also demand it
The people of the garrison and some of the Padres smile at
Padre Ugarte's- resolution against what seems to them an im
possibility. But they do not estimate the creative powers of
a mind bent on the accomplishment of itsdesires. He obtains
a builder from Senora, and makes preparations for bringing
timber from the opposite coast, as he has done for the erection
of his churches. But hearing of a grove of large trees two
hundred miles north of Loretto, he changes his determination,
and in September, 1719, goes with his builders, two soldiers and
some Indians to Mulege. Here he remains a day with Padre
Sistiaga, and then strikes out for that line of mountains which
overhangs the mission of Gaudalupe. They climb the heights
and scour the barren plains ; endure inexpressible difficulties
and toils; and at last discover a considerable number of Gua-
rivos trees of suitable size ; standing, however, in such bottoms
and sloughs, that the builder declares it impossible to get them
sto the sea. The Padre, disregarding this suggestion, goes to
Loretto; makes preparations for a vigorous effort to build a
ship of Californian timber ; returns to the north ; levels rocks
cuts away brush ; and making a road ninety miles in length
30

204 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
from Mulege to the timber, fells it, saws it into planks, trans-
ports them to Mulege, and in four months builds a vessel anu
launches with his own hands, in September, 1720, the first
ship ever built on the northwest coast of North America ! !
In this herculean labor the Padre has employed his entire
means. The little valuables sent him by his friends in Mexi
co and elsewhere, have not been spared. Even his wardrobe
has been freely distributed among the laborers. He himself
has swung the axe, has used the whip-saw, the chisel and the
hammer ; he has risen with the dawn, and invoking the smiles
of Heaven and the aid of ministering spirits in his toil of soul
and body, kindly called his men to their tasks. They famish,
and so does he. And when the fatigues of each day are over,
the jutting rocks are their resting-place; a few hides their
bed. Yet the ship is built. High on her stern, firmly affixed
to her bulwarks, is raised the symbol of their faith. Hei
name, how appropriate, is, the " Triumph of the Cross."
During the progress of the work, Jayme Bravo, as purveyor
of the missions, goes to the coast of Cinaloa to procure goods
and provisions. On his arrival there he is surprised to find
letters from the Provincial of Mexico, ordering him to Gua
dalaxara for ordination. He accordingly ships his supplies
and travels with all speed to that city ; is admitted to holy
orders; and by direction of his superior, proceeds to Mexico
to procure aid for the missions.
His energetic labors are crowned with success. On the
fifteenth of March, 1720, the council orders a bark built, to
Sail between Accapulco and Peru, to be delivered to Padre
Jayme Bravo, together with the arms and stores which he
desires. The means of founding a new mission at La Paz
are also furnished by the Marquis de Villa Puente ; and Padre
Bravo is designated as its priest and founder. With a new
ship, therefore, well laden with supplies, and with new hopes
for all the missions, and especially well furnished for his new
work at La Paz, the Padre Jayme Bravo sails from Accapul
co in July, 1720, and in August of the same year enters the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIA!.. '206
harbor of Loretto, amidst a general burst of joy and religious
thanksgiving of the starving people on shore. Comfort and
joy reign again throughout the missions. The Padres and
the garrison are clothed again ; and the means being. furnish
ed, their thoughts are again turned to the establishment of
other missions. Padre Jayme Bravo leads the new under
taking. Two expeditions are therefore projected; one by
land and another by water. The former is designed to open a
land communication between Loretto and the site of the in
tended mission ; the other for the conveyance of the men and
provisions, and other necessaries of the enterprise. The
forces intended for the expedition over land rendezvous at San
Juan Baptista Ligui, under command of Padre Clemente
Guillen. Padre Ugarte leads the other. He embarks on
board the " Triumph of the Cross" with Padre Bravo; the
soldiers and Indians, and a good stock of stores and utensils.
They arrive in safety at the bay of La Paz. This is in the
country of the Guaycuros, or Pericues, who have been
grievously wronged by Admiral Otondo and the Spanish
pearl fishermen. They are consequently inimical to the
Spaniards, and will perhaps make deadly war upon them as
they land. But it soon appears that those prisoners from
the fishing barks, whom Padre Salva Tierra has returned
to their homes, have given to their countrymen such an ac
count of the Padre's kind treatment as disposes them to
friendship. Some of them appear in arms ; but as soon
as they see the costume of the Padres, their arms are laid
aside. Seated on the ground, they allow the Padres to ap
proach, and accept with high demonstrations of pleasure,
various presents. The object of the expedition is made
known. They are assured by the Padres that it is for their
benefit They have come to found a mission among them :
to make peace between them and the Indians of the neigh
boring islands : to teach them agriculture and the useful
arts, and to instruct them in the principles of the Christian
religion. Thereupon the Indians receive them as friends, and

206 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
give them permission to erect the cross and consecrate their
shores to God. Huts are' now erected for all the people; the
stores and beasts are brought ashore; a piece of ground is
cleared for a church and a village; and to the great sur
prise and delight of the Indians, a mission is founded among
them. The expedition by land, under Padre Guillen, has not yet
arrived ; and much disquietude is awhile felt for its fate.
But it is soon changed to gladness. Three hundred miles
have been travelled, over mountains, through woods and mo
rasses ; and as the sun is falling on the brown heights in the
west, a salute of musketry is heard on the northern shore of
the bay ; it is returned by the ship ; and the boats are imme
diately sent over for Padre Guillen and his company. They
are worn, naked, hungry, and thirsty ; and with joy only
known to themselves, they bathe in the surf, drink the water
from the spring, and eat the food of their brethren in the hew
mission at La Paz. Padre Ugarte labors three months at La
Paz, in establishing Padre Bravo in his mission. And now
having confirmed the league of peace with the Indians by
numerous acts of benevolence and Christian love, he takes a
most affectionate leave of Padre Bravo and the soldiers who
remain with him, and embarks for Loretto. Padre Guillen is
so much worn with his land expedition, that he also returns by
sea. The Ligui Indians who accompanied him, follow back
the path by which they came. Padre Bravo, as all others lr
charge of these missions have done before, learns the Indian
language ; builds a parsonage, church and huts ; and with
the greatest assiduity, applies himself to gain the affection of
the natives, civilize and instruct them, and relieve them from
want. As a reward of his labor, more than six hundred
children and adults receive baptism : and more than eight
hundred adults are assembled in three well regulated settle
ments, called Nuestra Sennora del Pilar de La Paz, Todos
Santos, and Angel de la Guarda. He also, as he pursues
his holy labors, discovers some tracts of arable land sixty

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 207
miles distant, which he annually plants with maize. All this
Padre Bravo accomplishes single handed in seven years; .
In the year 1720, while the Padres are yet at La Paz, a
mission is.jbunded by Padre Everard Hellen, among mountains
in latitude 27° N., thirty leagues northwest of San Ignacio,
thirty from.Concepcion, and from sixty to seventy north of
Lorettc. The climate of this location is cold and unhealthy.
But the Indians repair to it from the neighboring settlements,
and express the utmost joy that the Padre, after long solicita
tions, has come to give them the religion, of the w7hite man.
This mission is dedicated to Nuestra Sennora de Gaudalupe.
In the midst of the labor of erecting the edifices of the mission,
the Padre visits the most distant of the surrounding settle
ments, to instruct the aged and sick, who are unable to come
to him. During his absence for these works of charity, the-
captain, soldiers and Indians, forward the erection of the -
church, parsonage and other buildings of the mission ; so that
at the end of six weeks, it is in so good a condition that
the captain, leaving a guard of four soldiers, returns to Lo
retto. Such is the zealous industry of Padre Hellen, and the inter
esting attention of the Indians, that on Easter eve, 1721, he
baptizes a few converts. And now from all the villages come
applications for instruction and baptism. The good Padr°
finds it difficult to make the Indians understand, that some
knowledge and the abandonment of their old practices are
necessary, before they can receive the sacred rite. He exhorts
them to give up the trumperies used in their heathenish cere
monies, and worship Jehovah. At length they bring him a
large quantity of pieces of charmed wood, feathers, cloaks,
deer's feet, &c, which he commits publicly to the flames,
* while he receives the transfer of their faith to the religion ot
the cross. Thus the Padres are making all desirable pro
gress inlhe spiritual culture of the Indians, and everything
promises well. But the following years, 1722 and '23, are
very disastrous to their feeble settlements ; and especially so

20S SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
to Gaudalupe. The whole country is overrun with locusts
The fruits, the chief sustenance of the Indians, are entirely de
stroyed. The maize and other supplies in the granaries, are dis
tributed to save them from famine. But in Gaudalupe, even
these are insufficient. The Indians are therefore compelled
to subsist on the locusts; and the consequenoe is a terrible
epidemic, by which great numbers are destroyed. They are
afflicted with painful ulcers of a most loathsome character.
During this epidemic, Padre Hellen has to fill the offices of
physician* nurse, confessor, priest, and father. He endures
almost incredible fatigue ; flies from one village to another ;
administers medicine, prepares food, and smoothes with a wo
man's tenderness, the rude couches of his suffering children.
Thus he continues till the sickness ends ; when worn out with
the multiplicity and the character of his labors, he hails the
approach of a season of rest with joy and thanksgiving. But
scarcely does it come, when another still more fatal pestilence
breaks out among them. A dysentery unusually fatal sum
mons the fainting energies of the good Padre to another
effort. He again enters upon his charitable offices, going
from rancheria to rancheria, like an angel of mercy, consoling,
comforting, praying and blessing. At last the consequences
of his severe labor fall upon himself in a distressing hernia,
and defluxion of the eyes, so extremely painful, that he is
obliged to leave his flock and retire to Loretto. In a few
months he is sufficiently restored, however, to return to his du
ties, and his afflicted Indians receive him with every demon
stration of faithful love and veneration. The Padre avails him
self of this attachment to draw them to his faith so effectually,
that, in 1726, seventeen hundred and seven converts of all
ages are the fruit of Padre Hellen's devout labors. Some,
living at a distance, are attached to the more contiguous mis-
sfons of Santa Rosalia and San Ignacio. But twenty ranche
rias remain to Padre Hellen. These he maintains in the most
peaceful and gentle intercourse with each other and with
himself. They are divided into villages of four rancherias.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 209
with each a chapel. And in these humble sanctuaries, as
often as the Padre visits them, the red men gather and pay
their devotions to the true God ! The progress* made in spir
itual improvement is equal to his most ardent desires. But
the nature of the country forbids equal advancement in the
arts of civilized life. They cannot raise the small grains;
and their only resource is the cultivation of maize and the
raising of cattle. These are procured by the Padre ; anu
with the native fruits afford them a comfortable subsistence.
The justice and kindness of the Padre win him the love and
esteem of all the Indians; and he desires to live and die
among them. But his health again failing, and his superior
regarding him with more tenderness than he does himself,
transfers him to an easier office in Mexico. And thus, having
spent sixteen years in the most arduous and faithful discharge
of his duties as a missionary in California, he, with grief and
tears, in 1735, takes leave of the Indians of Santa Guadalupe.
While these labors are being prosecuted, a Very strong de
sire is felt by the Padres to extend the commercial and civil
advantages of California by the establishment of colonies, gar
risons, and good harbors, for the accommodation of the Philip
pine and Chinese ships. In order to accomplish this, it is
desirable to do three things ; first, to take a minute survey by
water, of the Pacific coast, from Cape San Lucas northward,
in search of such harbors ; second, to pursue the same' search
by a land expedition, skirting the coast between the same
points ; and third, to survey the Californian Gulf, in order to
ascertain whether the peninsula be really such, or an island,
cut off from the main land by a channel at the north end
Great difficulties oppose the prosecution of all these enter
prises by the feeble powers of the Padre. But after much de
liberation, it is resolved to undertake the two last. The sur
vey ,of the Gulf being deemed the most difficult and import
ant, Padre Ugarte determines to take charge of it himself, and
while he is making the necessary preparation, he desires
Padre Guillen to attempt the land tour, on the Pacific Coast.
18

210 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
They learn from the narrative of Viscayno, who has sur
veyed the coast northward from Cape San Lucas, in the pre
ceding century, that there is a spacious bay in latitude 23°
or 24° N. ; and to this point Padre Guillen directs his steps in
1719, accompanied by a party of.soldiers, and three bodies of
Californians, armed after the manner of the natives. They
travel over a rough, barren, craggy country, and are obliged
to use the greatest caution to prevent the natives from cutting
them off. Twenty-five days they "journey thus, and at last
reach the bay of Magdalena ; a beautiful sheet of water re
posing in the embrace of lofty mountains. On one arm of it
they find a rancheria of Indians, whom they gain over by a
few presents, and enter into friendly intercourse with them.
From them they learn that there is but one well of fresh
water in the vicinity ; but that on a neighboring island called
Santa Rosa, there is an abundant supply. They have no
means, however, of crossing to ' it. The whole region
proves so rough and divided, between marshes and inac
cessible piles of rock, as to be worthless. They there
fore make a circuit of four leagues from the sea to the
rancheria San Benito de Amy. Here they receive from the
Indians a very discouraging account of the scarcity of water,
on the whole coast. Notwithstanding this, the Padre is anx
ious to survey the country from north to south, and uses all
his eloquence to induce the soldiers and Californians to under
take it. But being fatigued and disheartened, they refuse to
proc.eed. The Padre yields reluctantly to the necessity of the
case, and taking some friendly Indians of the coast with him
as guides, commences his return to Loretto. From the supe
rior knowledge that the guides possess, they accomplish their
backward journey in fifteen days ; and once more congratu
late themselves on their arrival at the garrison.
Their report does not much encourage the hope of Padre
Ugarte in relation to his expedition by sea. But having made
the best preparations in his power, he sets sail from the bay of
Loretto on the fifteenth of May, 1721, With the " Triumph of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 211
the Cross," and a boat called the Santa* Barbara, to be used
in sounding such waters as are too shallow for the larger
. vessel. The Santa Barbara has eleven feet keel and six feet
beam. She carries eight persons. The bilander carries
twenty ; six of whom are Europeans, and the rest Indians.
Of the former, two have passed the straits of Magellan, another
has made a voyage to the Philippine Islands and Batavia,
and another has been several times to Newfoundland. The
pilot passes for a man of learning and experience ; and thus
supported, Padre Ugarte departs on his momentous enter
prise. He takes but a small stock of provisions, expecting to
receive a full supply from the mission on the opposite coast
of Pimeria. The winds bear them safely to the bay of Con-
cepcion, where Padre Ugarte visits the mission of Santa Ro
salia, and spends some hours in social pleasure with Padre
Sistiaga. Hence they pass the islands of Salsipuedes. From
these they cross the Gulf to the harbor of Santa Sabina and
the bay of San Juan Baptista. Here they observe Indians
standing on the shore, who flee as the boat nears them. When
the Padre lands, he sees a rude cross set up in the sand. The "
simple solitary sign speaks to the good man's heart. He
bows before it, and the crews prostrate themselves in rever
ence at its foot. This is enough. The Indians, reassured by
this act, shout a friendly welcome, and rush from their con
cealment. They have known the venerable Salva Tierra ;
and the strangers' reverence for the cross allays all their fears;
so strong have been their love and respect for that great man,
that they put all trust in his brethren ; and are so impatient
to be near the Padre Ugarte, that they swim to the ship, and
manifest their joy by kissing his hands and face, and embrac
ing his feet. The good Padre's heart is deeply touched by
these tokens of confidence and love, and having sent two of
them with a letter to the Padre of San Ignacio, and distribut
ed some presents among the others, makes preparations to
procure a supply of water. For this purpose all the casks are
immediately put on shore. They have no interpreter, but the

212 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC..
Indians seem to enter into some dispute relative to the casks..
By and by they all take leave, intimating by signs that they
will return with the next sun. The Padre and the crew grow^
apprehensive. What do the Indians mean 1 It cannot be,
known. But being late, they go on board* and wait- the
event. Night comes on ; but no hostile savages break its
silence. With the early morning, however, the dreaded sava
ges are seen returning in troops, with rush buckets filled with,
water ; the men with twro, and the women one each. The
faithful creatures, understanding the want implied by the empty''
casks, have visited their mountain springs during the night,
and now rejoice to pour their crystal treasures into the good
Padre's vessels. Repaying their kindness as liberally as his
small means will permit, he undertakes to visit their kinsmen
on a neighboring island. The pinnace and bilander are pi
loted by two of these Indians. A small party in a canoe row
in advance of the ships, during the night. At dawn they are
in a narrow channel full of rocks and sand spits ; and notwith
standing their precautions, the bilander grounds on a shoal .
and requires all the efforts of her Grew for some hours to get
her off.
This period of anxiety over, another begins ; for now the
canoe and pinnace have disappeared. The bilander therefore
goes on, though dangers beset her on every side, and after
three days of tacking and sounding, reaches a tortuous chan
nel leading into a large bay. In this lie the pinnace and
canoe near the island they are seeking. Thither they direct
their course without more difficulties or delays. As they ap
proach, the natives appear on the shore, armed and shouting
with the intention of intimidating the strangers. But their
countrymen swimming ashore in advance, inform them that
Padre Salva Tierra's brother is come in the ship to see
them. Hearing this, they lay down their arms and express
the liveliest sentiments of joy. The bilander having dropped
her anchor, the Padre is earnestly solicited to go on shore
But being attacked with the most excruciating pains through-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 213
out his person, from the chest downward, he reluctantly fore
goes the .pleasure of complying with their invitation. These
pains have followed him occasionally since the severe expo
sure which he endured in the harbor of Seris. The Indians,
seeing that illness prevents his leaving the ship, construct a
number of small light floats, and send aboard a deputation of
forty or fifty persons, requesting that he will occupy, during
his indisposition, a house which they have erected for him on
Jhe beach. The good Padre cannot refuse this proffer of
sympathy, and though every motion is agony, gives direc
tions to be placed in the boat and rowed ashore. On landing,
he is treated with ^great consideration. The islanders have
formed themselves in double file from the waterside to the
house ; the men on one side and the women on the other.
Between these lines he is borne to the dwelling. It is a
small wigwam constructed of green boughs, fronting plea
santly on the open bay. Here the suffering Padre being
seated, the people who have lined his pathway, come in one
by one, first the men, then the women, and passing along,
bow their heads that he may lay his hand upon them, and
bless them. The Padre conceals his bodily agonies with
great heroism, and receives them with much pleasantness and
regards This ceremony over, the islanders gather about for instruc
tion. He cannot remain sufficient time to do this ; and re
commending them to go to the Mission del Populo, and bring
thither an Indian teacher, who will answer their inquiries and
teach them the precepts of the gospel, he re-embarks and
continues his survey. He soon afterward discovers a small
open bay, where his little fleet comes to anchor. His sup
plies are now nearly exhausted. It therefore becomes him to
hasten his explorations. Accordingly he sends the pinnace
to survey the coast by sea, and three men to examine it by
land. The latter return on the second day. They have
taken an outline of the neighboring land, and have seen a
pool of stagnant water, and some mule tracks in the path

214 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
leading from it. The Padre sees much in these tracks, and
despatches two seamen with orders to follow them. These
arrive on the third day at the Mission of Concepcion la Ca
borca. Here they fifid Padre Luis Gallardi, to whom they
deliver Padre Ugarte's letters, addressed to himself and the
Padre Missionary of San Ignacio. These being found to con
tain urgent petitions for the promised supplies, the Padre
Gallardi immediately sets out with such small quantities as
he can collect at so short notice.
Padre Ugarte is still suffering the most excruciating tor
tures. The only position which he can endure, is on his
knees. He has been twelve days in these dreadful agonies,
unable even to go on shore. But now hearing of the arrival
of Padre Gallardi, and the expected visit of the Padre Mis
sionary from San Ignacio, he determines, if possible, to
receive them ashore. It is no easy thing for him to leave the
ship. But at last it is accomplished ; and he travels a league
and a half to meet his visiters.
The meagre supplies which they bring him are a source
of anxiety to the host and his guests. The pinnace, too,
is still absent. She was sent to survey the coast at the
same time that the men were despatched by land. The
shores of the Gulf have been searched for. a great distance
north and south, but no trace of her being found, she is
nearly given up for lost. The bilander, too, is in cont'nual
danger from the agitation of the sea. She has already parted
one of her cables ; and now a heavy sea carries away her
bowsprit, on which is mounted the " Holy Cross !" This
causes great consternation. Fortunately a returning wave
throws most of her bowsprit back ; but the cross is still at
the mercy of the waves ! and the fears of the crew increase.
Heaven frowns on their labors, and has removed from them
the symbol of its mercy. The next day, however, an Indian
recovers the sacred emblem, and it is again planted in triumph
on the prow. Attention is now turned to obtaining wood and
Water. The former is easily procured in the glen near the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 215
shore; but the latter they bring from a spring several miles
distant. While thus engaged, they rejoice to see three of the
pinnace's crew approaching them. They relate that after
weathering a very rough sea, and being several times in im
minent danger, they cast anchor at sunset in a large shallow
bay, with two fathoms water, and went to rest. On the fol
lowing morning they were in a singular predicament for sea
men, out of sight — not of land — but of water ! ! The sea
had retired. What should be done ? No water, either fresh
or salt, was in sight, and the supply of provisions was very
scanty. Some of them resolved therefore, to leave the pinnace
in search of water and food. Finding none, however, and
seeing nothing but famine and death before them, they con
cluded to travel down the coast to Yaqui. The pinnace, how
ever, was visited by another flood tide, which her exhausted
crew improved to get her afloat. Her keel had been much
damaged. This they repaired, and immediately laid their
course for the bilander. Four days after leaving her unfor
tunate berth she rejoins her companion. They now determine
to depart from this ungenerous region and its treacherous
waters, where neither food, fresh water, fuel nor home for
man are to be found, but a mere wilderness of lonely shores.
Somewhat disheartened by these unpropitious circumstances,
Padre Ugarte, on the second of July, turns his prow westward
for California. On the third day afterward he drops the
anchor of the bilander and sends the pinnace ashore to talk
with some Indians, who, at the sight of the fleet, have lined
the shore, all armed in their native style. Before the men
leave the pinnace the Indians draw a line on the sand, and
intimate by signs it will not be safe for their visiters to cross
it A few presents, however, and some pantomiming, estab
lish affairs on a better footing. They conduct the Padres
and people to their rancheria, at which is abundance of
water. After remaining a short time with these savages, they
journey about nine leagues along the coast and find five

216 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
watering places, with a rancheria at each. The Bilander
continuing her survey, at length casts anchor in a large bay ;
but finding the current so strong as to prevent her riding head
to the wind, Padre Ugarte sends the pinnace down the coast
in search of a better harbor, while the pilot goes ashore in
the boat seeking an anchorage farther up the bay, returns
next day with the boat in so shattered a condition, that it
is with difficulty the people are taken on board before she
parts asunder. The pilot reports that he left her on the sand
and went a short distance to a rancheria ; that while there
exchanging friendly intercourse with the Indians, the tide
came in with tremendous force, and threw the boat so vio
lently upon the rocks, that she separated from stem to stern;
that the Indians offered them timber to biiild another ; but as
this was impossible, they drew the nails from the oars, fasten
ed the two parts together, and using their sounding line and
painter for oakum, and substituting clay for pitch, caulked
the seam. All night they were thus employed, the Indians
kindly rendering them whatever assistance was in their power ;
and the next day keeping' near the shore with their crazy
leaky boat, they reached the bilander as related. In a short
time the pinnace arrives, having cruised forty leagues and
discovered no harbor.
The bilander now again stands northward, and in a
few days finds herself sailing in waters whose variable hue
indicates her approach to the outlet of some great river.
Padre Ugarte keeps the pinnace sounding ahead, and after
standing across, and making some northing, comes to anchor
on the Peninsula side, near the mouth of the Colorado of the
west. It is disgorging a great volume of angry waters, laden
with grass, weeds, trunks of trees, burned logs, timbers
of wigwams, &c. There has evidently been ruthless work
inland. Terrible storms, accompanied with thunder and
lightning, have visited the voyagers during the night, and
spread over the country, whence the river issues. The men
are anxious, as soon as the flood subsides, to go- up and sur-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 217
«cy this stream. But Padre Ugarte thinks the floods beneath,
and *he angry clouds above, will render the undertaking haz
ardous. Beside, himself and several of his crew are very ill.
They therefore cross the western mouth of the Colorado, and
anchor in four fathom water, opposite the island which divides
the outlet. From this point they have a distant view of the
union of the Peninsula with the main land. The Padre is de
sirous of exploring- this region more , particularly ; but ill
health and the great danger to whieh his vessel is exposed
from the impetuosity and height of the tides, make him hesi
tate. The pilot is satisfied from the present height of the
tides that they are at the head of a gulf; and that the
waters beyond it are those of the Colorado. The danger of
remaining in this place becoming more and more imminent,
they at length hold a council, at which it is determined to re
turn to California. Their decision is received by the men
with a general acclamation of applause, and greatly to the
satisfaction of all, they weigh anchor on the sixteenth of
July, 1721, for the port of Loretto.
Their course lies down the middle of the Gulf; sometimes
Standing toward one shore and sometimes the other ; in order
to note more particularly the islands and shoals, which fill
these waters. Meantime they are visited by tremendous tem
pests and storms of rain ; and the Padre, fearing for the peo
ple in the pinnace, which is without a deck, urges the mate to
leave her and come with" her crew on board of the bilander.
But that officer trusting to his own craft, informs the Padre,
that if he will furnish him with provisions, he will sail direct-,
ly to Loretto ; and to secure safety in so doing, will keep so
near the shore as to be able to run in, should any accident
render such proceeding necessary. They therefore separate,
and each pursues his own course. The bilander, after much
trouble, arrives at the islands of Salsipuedes. She is here
obliged, by the winds and strong currents, to lie at anchor
for several nights. At last, however, she weathers the Islands
of Tiburon. But such is the force bf the currents, that in six

218 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
hours they lose the labor of eight days. Meantime the tem
pests continue almost every night with frightful fury. The
hungry waters roar around the frail bark, and the winds and
storms scourge her as if she were some doomed thing, labor
ing under their curse. But the men take courage, for the
"Triumph of the Cross" is a special object of Divine favor.
Three successive nights the fires of Saint Elmo light the cross
at the mast head, and no evil can befall them after such evi
dence of God's protection. They are encouraged, therefore, to
make a third attempt to escape from this dangerous neighbor
hood. Eight days struggling are vain. The currents and
storms will not suffer them to depart ; and at last they resolve
to come to anchor at a convenient place which they discover
near one of the islands, and go on shore. This begins now to
be a matter of necessity on account of the sickness which has
disabled all the crew except five. Some have the scurvy,
and others are suffering from the effects of the sea water,
which, farther up the Gulf, in the vicinity of the Colorado,
has been so poisonous, as to produce painful, obstinate sores,
and sharp pains in many parts of the body. Padre Ugarte
himself, besides his other indispositions, is afflicted witb the
scurvy ; and it is essential that he take means to recover
health. The Padre, notwithstanding his illness, is dpsirous to
go in the boat to the Seris coast, and thence by land to Guay-
mas. But the bare mention of his departure causes such de
jection among the crew, that he promises not to leave them if
it cost his life to remain.
They lie at anchor in this place about four days ; during
which time they are visited by a tempest more violent than
any that preceded it. At length to their inexpressible joy,
on the eighteenth of August, they escape these vexations, and
are once more in an open sea. On the Sunday morning fol
lowing, they hail a most happy omen to their future voyage.
Three beautiful rainbows hang over the islands they havejust
weathered ; bright arches of promise rising above the clouds
that have so long lowered over them. The sick too are now

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TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 219
all recovering, and everything promises fairly to the buffeted
mariners. Their hopes are vain. Other misfortunes are in
reserve, more frightful than any they have encountered. For
just before they reach the bay of Concepcion, a storm comes
up from the north-east so very suddenly, that they have
barely time to furl the topsails and reef the foresail, before its
fury reaches them. The lightning falls around them, as if it
would scorch an ocean to ashes, and the thunder-peals shake
the firmament; the rain falls like the pouring of an upper
sea, and the wind ploughs the ocean into mountains ! In the
height of this raging war, the terrified mariners discover a
water-spout not more than a league distant, travelling directly
toward the ship, with the speed of the wind ! They fall upon
their knees before the cross, and implore the protection of
"Our Lady," and their patron saints. They spare neither
prayers, vows, nor entreaties ! And suddenly when the foe is
almost upon them, the wind shifts and drives it among the
thirsty mountains of California. It discharges its devastating
energies upon their barren sands and rocks ! Padre Ugarte
says, that among all the dangers of the voyage, this was the
time of greatest consternation.
About the first of September, the vessel comes to anchor
in the bay of Concepcion ; and they repair in boats to Mulege,
to partake the hospitality of Padre Sistiaga. After spending
about two weeks in recruiting the sick, they return to their
voyage, and soon after arrive at Loretto. To their great joy
they find the pinnace has arrived four days in advance of
them. Thus ends this eventful and important voyage. It
serves to satisfy the Padres of many things which before were
doubtful; namely, that on the coast of California are some
few watering places near the shore; that the Indians are
kind, gentle, and willing to be instructed; while those on the
mam coast, east of the Gulf, are sluggish, ungenerous, and
unwilling to enter into any intercourse with the whites. They
are also now convinced that CaUfornia is no island, but a

220 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
peninsula ; and that all their plans for extending the missions
so as to form a chain of connection with those in Pimeria are
feasible. They have also obtained a much more accurate
knowledge of the Gulf and its islands, shoals and currents,
than they ever before possessed ; so that the difficulties and
dangers of any future voyage are much lessened. Great sat
isfaction is felt at these results ; and yet the Padres grieve
that they have not found a safe harbor, as their King has de
sired, in which the distressed seamen of the ships, bound from
the Philippine Islands to Acapulco, may anchor and be spared
by timely care, a dreadful death from the scurvy. The
Padres still consider it their duty to pursue this object. They
feel a moral, as well as national obligation to prevent this
suffering. It can only be done by discovering a harbor on the
Pacific coast, secure from seaward storms and convenient to
fresh water. With a view to this, Padre Tamaral surveys
nearly the whole coast from his mission to Cape San Lucas,
and far northward also, from the same point; but all to no
purpose. It is found inhospitable and barren near the sea ;
and destitute of a harbor in which ships may lie with any
safety. Padre Ugarte, on his return to Loretto, directs a new sur
vey of the same coast as far north as possible. And in com
pliance with this order, a small detachment of soldiers under
the captain of the garrison goes to the mission of Santa Ro
salia de Mulege, and thence with Padre Sistiaga, to the mis
sion of Guadalupe. On the nineteenth of November, 1721,
it leaves for the coast, and advances northward to 28° N.
In this excursion they find three pretty good harbors, with
plenty of water and wo' , out no arable land near them.
The largest one is not far from the mission of San Xavier ;
and may therefore be supplied with provisions, timber, &c,
from that post. Highly gratified with these discoveries, they
return to foretto and report to Padre Ugarte what they have
found. The Padre sends a narrative of his own voyage, to-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 22 1
get'ner with the map and journal of his pilot, and Padre Sisti-
aga's account of his discoveries, to the Viceroy of Mexico, to
be transmitted to the Court, for the information and action of
the Government. Meanwhile the Padres turn their attention
to the spiritual conquest of this wild country.

CHAPTER XIII.

A Mission Founded — A Tornado— Death — Another Mission Founded—
A Vineyard — A Harvest— Indications of Trouble — A Murder— For
bearance — Three Murders— Measures taken for Defence — The Insur
gents Captured — A Trial — A Sentence — A Reprieve — Death of Padre
Piccolo — A Visitor — Further Steps in the Conquest — A Voyage-
Birds — Natives — Country — Islands — A Plunge — A Shark — Death.
The Padres have lost none of their religious zeal while
prosecuting these civil enterprises; and they have gained
much topographical and other knowledge, which will be of
general service in their future missionary labors. They have
learned the practicability of extending their missions farther
north. The country there is more fertile and better supplied
with wood and water. The moral aspect too is more promis
ing. The natives in that quarter are much superior in intellect,
more gentle and friendly, more honest and faithful ;, and in
every way more inviting and promising than those in the
south. There, is a rich field of labor opened to them. But at
the same time the condition of the southern natives renders it
more necessary that they should* be formed into missions.
They are treacherous, vindictive, bloody ; and have many vices
which are unknown among the northern people. The whole
nation of Pericues with its several branches of Uchities, Guay
curos and Coras, are continually engaged in destructive wars,
so that no security can be enjoyed by the missions or their

222 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
converts, until this entire people are brought under the influ
ence of the Padres. To this end, during the time that Padre
Ugarte has been exploring the Gulf and coast, two new mis
sions have been founded among Pericues.
The Marques de Villa Puente, having a deep interest in the
spread of the gospel in California, has endowed two missions
which shall be founded between Cape San Lucas and Loretto.
On receiving tidings of this, it is resolved that Padre Guil
len shall leave the mission San Lucas de Malibat, and found
a new mission between the Uchities and Guaycuros. Accord
ingly in 1721, he settles among them and lays the foundation
of a church and other buildings necessary to a mission, on the
shore of Aparte, forty leagues by sea, and on account of im
passable mountains, sixty by land, from Loretto. The mission
is dedicated to Nuestra Sennora de los Dolores, and is styled
Los Dolores del Sur. The country around if is barren and
desolate. The inhabitants are the most vindictive, treacher
ous and stupid of all the Californians. Padre Guillen has
therefore no easy or pleasant task to execute. But he enters
upon it with so much zeal and love, is so unsparing of his
efforts, and so universally kind and gentle toward those whom
he would win to his flock, that his labors are rewarded even
more largely than his fondest hopes anticipate.
It is found advisable after the good Padre has been laboring
here for some tin:a, to remove his mission farther into the in
terior, to a place called Tanuetia, about ten leagues from the
Gulf and twenty-five from the Pacific. In this region the In
dians live in the wildest state. They have no villages ; and
the Padre is obliged to seek them in caves and woods,<and
among the almost inaccessible rocks of the mountains. With
great labor and the most indefatigable perseverance he
draws them from their retreats and forms them into six villa
ges, called Nuestra Sennora de los Dolores, La Concepcion
de Nuestra Sennora, La Incarnacion, La Trinidad, La Redemp-
cion, and La Resurreccion. He also assembles many other
wandering Indians, and erects for them the new mission of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 223
3an Luis Gonzaga. Lastly, he- jturns his attention to the con
version of the Indians on the Pacific coast, from the mission
of San Xavier iouthward to the .Coras ; and founds among
them a new'mission. The Padre has now spread his labors
over an immense tract of country, extending forty leagues up
the Peninsula from Cape San Lucas, and embracing the whole
territory from one coast to the other.
The soil of this region is extremely poor. A small tract
at Aparte on which the Indians* are enabled to raise sufficient
maize for sustenance, is all that can be cultivated. And be
sides the physical difficulties incident to these desolate wastes,
the Padre has savage poverty and its inseparable mental de
gradation, to weaken his hands and try his1 faith. This is pe
culiarly distressing to the good Padre. It appears to him im
possible to bring these Indians info civilized habits of living,
without the industry acquired by the cultivation of the soil.
Notwithstanding all these momentous obstacles, however, (and
few can appreciate' them who have not seen the poor starving
Indian in his native wilderness), the good Padre's labors here
are so efficient and deeply grounded in the true philosophy of
lov.e, that these savages, once so vindictive and turbulent, are
so changed as to stand firm during all the subsequent rebel
lions of the south, and offer the Padres and Christian Indians,
flying from the treacherous and cruel Pericues and Coras, an
affectionate and safe asylum in the mission de los Dolores del
Sur. During the year 1721, another mission endowed by the
Marques de la Puente, has been founded in the nation of the
CorasA near Cape San Lucas, under Padre Ignaoia Maria Na-
poli. Padre Ugarte, before embarking on his survey of the
gulf, gave direction to Padre Napoli to wait the arrival of the
bark with supplies from Mexico, and taking whatever he
stood in need of for his new station, to proceed in the bark to
La Paz, and thence by land to the Bay of Islands, the place
chosen for his mission. This vessel arrives in the middle of
July ; and on the twenty-first, Padre Napoli embarks .with
four soldiers and Captain Don Estevan Rodriguez ; and on

224 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the second of August, anchors at La Paz. Padre Napoli is
met by the Indians with great veneration. They conduct him
in procession to the church where Padre Jayme Bravo, then
missionary, is waiting to receive him.
Having rested from the toil of the voyage, the Padre sends
the supplies to Palmas Bay in a boat, while himself and the
soldiers proceed by land for the twofold purpose of establish
ing some communication between the contemplated mission
and La Paz, and also of inviting such Indians as they may
meet bn the way, to settle near him and receive instruction.
During the eight days of travelling through this wilderness,
however, they meet no natives. The news of their approach
has aroused their suspicions to such a degree, that they desert
their rancherias and fly before the Padres, as if they were
come to curse instead of bless them. On the twenty-fourth of
August they reach their place of destination. Padre Napoli
is suffering extreme pain in consequence of a fall from his
mule. No Indians appear ; the boat does not arrive ; and the
Padre therefore is troubled. One evening Padre Napoli is
walking alone at some distance from the tent, when suddenly
his ears are saluted by the most frightful howlings, and on
looking up he sees a company of naked Indians approaching
him with the most furious gestures. They are led by one of
gigantic stature, painted for battle, in black and red, and par
tially covered by a kind of hair cloak. In one hand he has a
fan of feathers, and in the other a bow and arrow. Several
deer's feet and other unseemly objects dangle from a band
around his waist. The Padre, concluding that his time is now
come to die, commends his soul to mercy, and advances to
meet the Indians. He remembers the instructions of Padre
Ugarte, and concealing his fears, looks them boldly in the
face, and even makes signs of contempt for their savage arts.
Their apparent fury is a little checked by his demeanor ; and
the Padre gaining courage, approaches nearer and signifies
by signs that he is grieved, but not frightened by their inten
tions. He then proceeds with great kindness to distribute

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 225"
among them some trifling presents which he has about his
person, and invites them to come to the tent and receive oth
ers. This treatment produces its desired effect. They follow
him to the tent, where they are kindly entertained ; and at
length depart, bearing tokens of peace to their friends at home.
They seem much pleased ; but intimate as they depart that
they are afraid of the mules and the Padre's dog ; and that
they cannot return, unless these are concealed from sight.
This the Padre signifies shall be done. The next day the
tent is thronged with little parties, to the number of five hun
dred, bringing such presents as the country affords, and re
ceiving in return frocks of sackcloth, razors, and beads. This
demonstration cheers the hearts of the Padre and soldiers.
Still the boat does not arrive — and they are oppressed with
fears lest she may be lost with all their supplies ; for they
have been here now five days. No tidings of her have reach
ed them. They are, however, looking out on the sea at-
the close of the fifth day, when she makes her appearance.
She has mistaken the place of rendezvous, and lain four days
in a small bay a few leagues to the south.
Being relieved thus from these several troubles, they begin
to clear the ground and erect the village. The Indians con
tinue friendly and aid the work. But on a sudden they all
disappear for a whole day. Now again the heart of the Pa
dre beats with anxiety. When and how will the Indians
return are questions which will arise, but which no one can
answer. Toward evening he determines to go in quest of
them with only one soldier and an interpreter. He finds a
few, and expresses his regret that they should forsake him ;
when they frankly state the cause of their movement, as fol
lows :. — They are at war with the Guaycuros ; the Padre is
friendly to the latter, and has soldiers and Indians of that na
tion with him. They have watched their labors and see the
walls of the church go up. For what other purpose could
these be intended to answer, than a warlike one 7 Moreover
the Padie has that morning despatched three Guaycuros on the

226 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
open road to La Paz ; and the ostensible object is peaceful
enough, being simply to drive in a mule laden with maize.
Yet they are suspicious that some more important business
lies under this affair. In short, they believe the Guaycuros are
coining to massacre the whole nation. The Padre has much
difficulty in removing this suspicion from their minds. At
length, however, he so far recovers their confidence that a
large number return to the tent. Others, still apprehensive,
light large fires and keep strict watch, that the supposed ene
my may not fall on them unawares. The night, however,
operates unfavorably on their feelings. They are all missing
again for two days. They look upon Padre Bravo, who
speaks the Guaycuri tongue, as the head and front of their
foes. His presence keeps their fears and suspicions continu
ally inflamed. And though, when the mule and the Guaycu
ros return from La Paz, they see that Padre Napoli has told
them truth, still they cannot so far quiet their fears as to re
turn to their dwellings. Thus they continue between hope
and fear for several days. Meantime the Padre continues his
labors at the mission ; and by and by the Indians, finding
iheir fears unfounded, begin to come in. The women bring
their children for baptism, and the men offer perpetual friend
ship. Peace is also concluded between the Guaycuros and
Coras and celebrated with the usual festivities.
On the fourth of November Padre Napoli baptizes twenty-
nine of their children, and everything seems to promise well
for their intercourse with the. Indians. But as almost every
thing which was brought from La Paz, even to the furniture
of the altar, has been distributed among them, and as the
supply of provisions is growing short, Padre Napoli finds it
necessary to evacuate his post. He accordingly leaves the
little furniture and the few remaining utensils in the care of
some of the oldest and most faithful of the savages, and pro
mising a speedy return, goes with Padre Bravo and his men
to La Paz.
In January he returns to his mission, and finds that during

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 227
his absence, a band of forty depredators, from a neighboring
island, called Cerralvo, has visited the mission, and finding
neither Padre nor guard in possession, killed six baptized' child
ren, two women and one man ; and taking another prisoner,
returned to their homes. The Padre is sad at this unprovoked
barbarity upon his neophytes. But the Captain of the guard
is so enraged, that accompanied by a small party of soldiers,
he crosses to the island to chastise the savages. They flee at
his approach and hide themselves among the rocks. ¦ He,
however, kills a sufficient number to intimidate the living from
a like attempt in future, and returns to the mission.
The confidence of the Indian converts in the Padre, is
greatly increased by this punishment of their enemies; Yet
the Padre does not think best to continue his mission so far
from La Paz, whence all itssupplies must come. According
ly, he selects a spot called Santa Anna, situated thirty leagues
from La Paz, and five from the Gulf. Here he builds a
chapel and small house, and labors with much success for the
establishment of Christianity. In 1723 he builds a church
farther in the interior, with the intention of making it the
seat of his mission. But an unavoidable accident puts an end
to this design. For when the church is so far finished that
the beams and rafters are laid for the roof, the Padre is sum
moned one day to attend the deathbed of one of his Indians.
During his absence one of the terrible tempests, so common
in Lower California, comes up, and the Indians take shelter
in the unfinished church. The storm increases, the church is
prostrated, and several Indians are buried under it! Padre*
Napoli hastens to the spot, and does everything in his power
for the relief of the sufferers. But his benevolent acts are
misunderstood. The living are thoroughly incensed at the
death of their friends, and begin to concert schemes to de
stroy the Padre. From this they are at length dissuaded bv
the repeated assurances of the survivors, that they retired to
the church of their own choice, so that in time all becomes
quiet again. The church is built and dedicated to San Jago ;

228 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
some ground cleared and sown with maize ; and comfort is
slowly increasing among them. He spends three years among
this slothful and stupid people, during which time he baptizes
ninety adults, and about four hundred children.
The Padres have now for many years sustained a limited
intercourse with the Cochimies of Tierra de San Vincente.
They have frequently expressed a strong desire to have a Pa
dre among them who would teach them to become Christians.
But no opportunity has offered of founding a mission in their
territory, till the year 1727, when Padre Juan Baptiste Luy-
ando, a Mexican Jesuit of fortune, arrives at Loretto, and
offers not only to endow, but to be the founder of a mission.
His offers are gratefully accepted by the Padres. The seat of
the mission has been selected by Padre Sistiaga of Santa Ro
salia Mulege, during his frequent visits among the Indians of
that vicinity. To this spot, therefore, Padre Luyando travels,
accompanied by nine soldiers, in January, 1728, and arrives
on the twentieth of the same month. The natives having
been expecting a Padre for some time, hail his arrival with
much joy, and flock to his tent in great numbers. Many of
them are already acquainted with the catechism, and nearly
all have received some instruction from Padre Sistiaga. Pa
dre Luyando, therefore, finds his task comparatively easy
The Indians are very readily persuaded to destroy all their
implements of sorcery and abandon the foolish and supersti
tious arts in which they have placed their faith. Some of the
Catechumens return to their rancherias after receiving baptism,
but many remain. The Padre has about five hundred at the
mission during the first six months. At the end of this time
his provisions beginning to fail, he despatches seven of his
soldiers with letters to Loretto, asking supplies ; meanwhile
the two that remain together with the Indians, commence
building a church, which is finished and dedicated on Christ
mas day. The Padre's heart is so encouraged by his success
that he not only undertakes the instruction of all who lome

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 229
to him, but likewise makes excursions in search of new ob
jects on which to expend his labors.
He finds all his people docile, kind, vivacious, and active.
Their district is well adapted to agriculture. Padre Sistiaga
had some time before sown maize on some of it, which yield
ed well ; and Padre Helen had introduced the culture of gar
den vegetables ; for all of which the Indians have acquired a
relish. So that Padre Luyando has little difficulty in leading
them into agricultural pursuits. He plants with his own
hands five hundred vines, besides olive and fig trees, sugar
canes, and many other exotic plants. He induces the Indians
to sow considerable quantities of wheat and maize annually ;
so that on the fourth year of his residence among them, the
whole harvest amounts to a thousand bushels of wheat, and a
fine quantity of maize and fruits. He also persuades them to
form themselves into villages, and to erect adobie and bough-
houses. He introduces cattle, and makes every effort to cre
ate among them the desires of civilized life. And there is no
doubt in the Padre's mind, that the adaptation of their country
to the pursuits of husbandry, will greatly facilitate his wishes
for their spiritual improvement. But in the meantime all is
not as fair as it seems. The old jugglers and priests of their
former religion, so lately held in great respect, see their power
and wealth fading under the new order of things, and them
selves becoming objects of contempt to the younger members
of the tribe. It is not in the nature of civilized or uncivilized
man, to bear such a change with indifference ; and these men
resolve, to use what influence they have left, to recover their
rank. Accordingly they instigate some unconverted Indians
to oppose the Padre's labors by every available means. On
a dark night, therefore, eight of them fall upon a catechumen,
near the Padre's cottage, and murder him. After this outrage,
they persuade a whole rancheria, at some distance from the
mission, to refuse all intercourse with the Padre. In this
neighborhood, for two years, bands of malcontents shelter
themselves, and dissuade the people from yielding to any ad-

230 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
vances from the Christians. And when at length three of
its people are baptized, they are obliged to take refuge in
the house of the Padre, from the fury of their disaffected rela
tives. To all these outrages, the Padre makes no resistance, and
for the evil, returns love, patience, and uniform kindness. In
deed, were he disposed to chastise them, he has not the power.
His feeble force would be useless against an active, vigilant
and fearless band of savages. He therefore betrays no dispo
sition to punish these wrongs. He has not yet learned from
experience, that undue forbearance is neither wisdom nor vir
tue. Some of the wild unconverted Indians, therefore, re
strained by no fear of chastisement, falling upon a Christian
rancheria, murder two men and a little girl. The remainder
succeed in escaping to the mission. The Padre's people wish
to avenge this outrage, but he restrains them, in the hope that
forbearance may yet be effectual with these bad men. In this
he is mistaken. The savages concluding, from the quiet man
ner in which he submits to their treatment, and also from
some kind messages and presents which the Padre has sent
them, that he is helpless and fearful, are emboldened to at
tack other rancherias, and plunder the Christians wherever
they meet them. These last outrages awaken in the Pa
dre a determination to prevent their recurrence. He as
sembles his converts and with them retires to Guadalupe for
safety. Effective measures are now taken. Three hundred and
fifty converted Indians are armed ; and having, by the Padre's
permission, elected their own leader, they march against their
foes with great spirit and determination. They find them en
camped near a watering place at the base of a mountain.
During the night they succeed in surrounding them, and at day
break, raising the war shouts, advance on all sides upon the
sleeping enemy. Finding themselves thus completely hem
med in by a force greatly superior to their own, they lay
down their arms. Only two escape. The others, thirty-four
in number, are taken to the mission as prisoners.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 231
When thanks have been duly returned for this signal and
easy vietory, a court is organized from the soldiers and In
dian Alcaldes, for the trial of the prisoners. They are con
victed of the capital crimes of rebellion, robbery, and murder,
and sentenced to be removed to Loretto for punishment. They
are very much dejected at the prospect of death. The Indians
of the mission are elated with the hope of being permitted to
execute them. But the Padres assure the prisoners that they
shall not die ; and reprove the unchristian exultation of their
people ; instructing them that as Christians they should exer
cise charity and forgiveness toward all men. Meantime some
of the converts are so gently disposed toward the prisoners
that they beseech the Padres to convene the court the next
day, that the sentence may be reconsidered. The Indian con
verts now come before the soldiers and Indian Alcaldes, beg
ging them to make the sentence of their enemies lighter. Af
ter some deliberation it is commuted to a certain number of
lashes. The punishment is first inflicted on the principal mur
derer. The Padres then pray that it may be confined to him.
This is most unwillingly complied with. They are therefore
deprived of their arms and liberated.
The prayers of the Padres are answered in the effect which
this treatment has upon their enemies. In a few months all
these prisoners have become catechumens. The victory and
lenity are of great service to the missionaries. The former
intimidates the unconverted Indians, the latter shows the ex
cellence of the precepts of Christianity. Padre Luyando,
however, now finds his health so much impaired that he must
leave the mission to recruit his exhausted energies. The In
dians are deeply pained at parting with him. But his place is
well filled by the kind and active Padre Sistiaga.
The years 1729 and '30 bring heavy misfortunes on the mis
sions of California, in the death of two of the oldest and most
valued laborers among them; Padre Piccolo and Padre
Ugarte. Both these men have by long years of the most ardu
ous and faithful service, woven their names inseparably with

232 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the history of California, and left in their characters and lives,
an example to all who would rear the cross in the solitary wil
derness. Bold, indefatigable, self-denying, just, and true men,
they were, who never shrank from any duty, however severe,
and were never swerved by passion or love of ease, from the
line of action marked out by judgment, truth and religious
faith. Padre Piccolo expires in the garrison at Loretto, on the
twenty-second of February, 1729, having lived seventy-nine
years, thirty-two of which he has spent among the missions
of California. Padre Ugarte follows him the next year, hav
ing been thirty years a laborer on the same ground. The deaths
of these excellent men are momentous events in the missions.
Their great experience, their uniform kindness, their zeal, tem
pered by wisdom and sagacity, their unblemished integrity,
and the veneration in which their very names are held by the
Indians, make them powerful co-operators with the young and
active missionaries, even though age and debility forbid them
a personal participation in their labors. At this time, too,
their presence is particularly desired, for the southern na
tions, never much relied on, are growing turbulent. The un
converted among them, and there are many of these notwith
standing the efforts of Padre Bravo at La Paz, Padre Napoli
at San Jago, and Padre Guillen at Dolores, lose no occasion
to insult and annoy those who have embraced the cross.
They become so troublesome that in 1723, Capt. Rodriguez,
with a company of soldiers, marches into their districts, to
intimidate them, and, if possible, put an end to their outbreaks.
In 1725, also, he finds it necessary to go with an armed force
against some rancherias of Uchities and Guaycuros, who have
been stimulated into rebellion, by a few mulattoes and mesti
zoes, renegades of foreign privateers, that have touched at Cape
San Lucas. These difficulties will ripen into fearful scenes.
Another attempt is now made to found an establishment at
Palmas bay, the original seat of the mission San Jago de los
Coras. It is endowed by the Donna Rosa de la Penna, cousin

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 233
of the Marquis de Ville Puente. This individual also offers
to endow a third, in the neighborhood of Cape San Lucjjs.
About this time, Padre Josef de Echeveria, the Mexican agent
for California, is appointed by the papal court, Visitor General
of the Jesuit missions ; and he resolves to commence his visi
tation in California. Purchasing in Cinaloa, therefore, a bark
to supply the place of one that, with a year's provisions, a few
weeks before has been lost, he embarks at Ahome, and on the
twenty-seventh day of October, arrives safely in Loretto bay,
where he is received with great respect and affection by the
Padres, and their Indians. Soon after his arrival, he is attack
ed with a most malignant fever. For many days his life is
despaired of, but he recovers ; and while yet very feeble, leaves
the garrison for the northern missions, with only the ensign,
one soldier, and a few Indians.
The Visitor finds great cause of rejoicing in the con
dition of the missions. The economy, neatness and order of
everything connected with them, the quiet and regular con
duct of the Indian converts, and their progress in knowledge
of temporal things, the patience, kindness and industry of the
Padres, the good understanding between them and their peo
ple, and most of all, the progress Christianity has made in the
bosom of the wilderness, touch the Padre's heart with the
liveliest joy. In a letter dated the tenth of February, he says,
" I was well rewarded for the fatigue and cold, were it only
in seeing the fervor of these new Christian establishments.
And the least I could do was to shed tears of joy at so fre
quently hearing God praised from the mouths of poor crea
tures, who very lately did not so much as know whether there
was such a being."
After examining the missions of the north, Padre Echeveria
prepares to visit those of the south, and establish the two mis
sions which have been endowed at Palmas bay and Cape San
Lucas. But death and ill-health among the Padres render it
impossible to carry both these plans into execution. Padre
Segismund Taraval has been appointed to the charge of the

234 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
former, called Santa Rosa, in honor of the foundress ; but does
not arrive. And it is determined, therefore, to commence
that at San Lucas, called San Jose del Cabo. This is a post
which requires great integrity, zeal and address. Padre
Tamaral, founder of the mission La Purissima, is therefore
chosen to fill it. This Padre and the Visitor General embark
on the tenth of March, and visiting on their way at the mis
sions of La Paz and San Jago de los Coras, proceed to San
Lucas, and finding an agreeable spot a short distance from
the Cape, erect a chapel and houses ; and though only about
twenty families present themselves, the Padre founder enters
upon his labors. As soon, however, as the Padre Visitor with
his two soldiers leave the spot, they come in great numbers to
Padre Tamaral, essigning as a reason for not appearing
sooner, that they feared the Padres had come with the soldiers,
to punish their assaults on the missions of San Jago and La
Paz. Padre Tamaral "makes a journey in search of the
rancherias and the people whom he is to teach, and also of a
better site for his mission. The present one is infested
with musquitoes and other insects ; the dampness and extreme
heat also render it intolerable. On becoming acquainted
with the country, he determines to remove the mission to a
spot about five leagues from the sea ; and proceeds at once
to erect a chapel and houses on the new site. He labors in
cessantly to induce the natives who have hitherto led wander
ing lives, to settle in fixed habitations ; and so successful is he,
that in one year he has instructed and baptized one thousand
and thirty-six souls ; and so far as their indolent roving cha
racter will permit, has bettered their temporal welfare.
In the year 1730, Padre Tamaral undertakes to survey the
islands which lie near the Pacific coast. Accompanied by six
Indians, he sets out on the festival of San Xavier, and after
travelling six days by land, reaches one of the capes or head
lands of a large bay, which he calls San Xavier. From this
point they see two islands, lying some seven or eight leagues
from the coast, which they determine to visit. Accordingly

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 235
having constructed a raft of timber, they pass over to the
nearest one, and find it a small desert, not more than half a
mile in length, and less in width. It is a bank of dry sand,
with neither a drop of water, nor a leaf of verdure upon it.
It is called by the Indians Asegua, on account of the immense
flocks of birds which frequent it. Among these is a small jet
black bird, something larger than a sparrow, which burrows
in the sand, and makes its nest some four feet below the sur
face, retiring to it at night only, and living all day in the sea.
There is another bird quite unlike any known to the Padre.
It is about the size of a goose, with black wings, a snowy
breast, and light-colored feet, and a beak like the carnivora.
This also makes its nest three or four feet below the surface
It is a lover of storm and tempest, and never retires to its nest
except when the sea is calm. These birds are hunted by the
Indians for food. About four or five leagues distant from this
island, lies another, called by the Indians Amalgua, or foa
island. It is several leagues in circumference, and of a tri
angular form. In its midst rises a conical mountain of con
siderable height. It has several fresh-water springs ; but no
anchorage protected from the sea. Deer and rabbits live
upon it. Among the latter is a small black species with fur
finer than that of the beaver. It is frequented by a variety
of birds, and sea-wolves, on which its inhabitants chiefly sub
sist. They find also a fruit here called mexcales, which is
juicy and very pleasant. A variety of beautiful shells lie en
the shore ; some of an exquisite azure hue. From the top of
the mountain on this island, the explorers have a view of
two other small ones, eight or ten leagues to the westward
There are also in the bay of San Xavier three other small
islands, which are frequented by the sea-wolf and beaver.
Farther northward they discover others, which they conjecture
to be those that form the channel of Santa Barbara. They
can obtain no information respecting these latter from the
people of Amalgua. For they inform the Padre that their

236 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
sorcerers have prohibited them all intercourse with tneir in
habitants, and even the privilege of looking toward them.
The Padre finds no difficulty in persuading the people of
Amalgua to accompany him to the mission. The only-oppo
sition arises from an -old sorcerer. But his influence effects
nothing. Even his own wife proposes to leave him if he will
not go with them. And he also finally consents. They em
bark, therefore, on their raft for the coast ; but are obliged to
seek shelter from a storm, on the desert island of Asegua, and
remain there several days. With the return of fair weather,
they put off again for the continent. As they are floating
along close in shore, they discover some sea-wolves disporting
themselves on a sand bank ; and the sorcerer, anxious to vent
his ill-humor upon something, and being a dexterous swim
mer, plunges into the water for the purpose of killing one of
the animals. They all flee at his approach ; but in attempt
ing to return to the raft he is seized, in sight of the whole
company, by an enormous shark ! By some extraordinary
feat, however, he clears himself; and, not satisfied with this,
throws the blood, which issues from his wounds, at the hun
gry fish ! He is seized a second time with a hold not so
shaken off. The exasperated fish goes down with him ; and
no trace of his existence is left, except a faint red tinge which
slowly rises, and fades into the deep green of the sea !
Padre Taraval now receives orders from the Visitor General
to proceed at once to the erection of his new mission among
the Coras, at Palmas bay. It is particularly desirable that it
shall go into early operation. For the continual presence of
the Padres is indispensable to keep these turbulent and
deceitful people in subordination. All preparation being
therefore speedily made, Padre Taraval travels from Loretto
to the bay Of La Paz, thence to the mission of San Jago,
at Palmas bay, and founds his mission on the old site
of San Jago. He finds his people somewhat advanced
by the former efforts of Padre Napoli, and the visits which
they have received from Padres Carranco and Tamaral.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 237
Nevertheless, he meets with so much violent opposition, that it
requires all his address to advance his objects in such manner
as not to arouse these Indians' malevolence. But he succeeds,
not only in bringing a great part of the unconverted to seek
baptism, but also in winning their confidence and affection to
such a degree, that at a future period they save his life at the
risk of their own.

CHAPTER XIV.
A Rebellion attempted — .Arrival from the Seas. — The Sick— Depart
ure — DisaiFection among the Indians — Insurrection — Fearful Times
-^Martyrdom of Padres Carranco and Tamaral — All the Missions
in a State of Revolt— The Padres retire to Loretto — Aid denied by
the Viceroy — It comes from the Indians themselves — The Missions
in the North send Delegates to the Padres — Peace made and Padres
resume their Labors — Southern Missions recovered— Indians reduced
to Subjection — Condition of the Conquest in 1745.
Meantime, in the winter of 1733-4, some signs of revolt
have appeared in the missions San Jago and San Josef. The
chief, called Boton, the offspring of an Indian and a negro, a
most profligate mulatto, who has been reproved by the Padre
Carranco, for some of his excesses, and afterward continuing
in the same practices, has been punished publicly, allies him
self with another mulatto, named Chicori, belonging to the
mission San Josef, whom the Padre has also chidden on ac
count of similar vices. These miserable men seek revenge.
Accordingly they excite the unfriendly Indians in every possi
ble way to an outbreak at San Jago. Padre Tamaral hearing
of this, and unsuspicious that the like is growing in his own
mission, hastens to San Jago to assist Padre Carranco in
quelling the difficulties. Boton being absent when he ar-

238 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
rives, little disposition exists among the Indians to persist ; and
Padre Tamaral proposes to return to his own mission. But
he is informed by a friendly Indian that Boton and Chicori,
with two bodies of men, are stationed on his route, to kill
him. Being satisfied of the truth of this report by men dis
patched to reconnoitre, the Padre sends to his catechumens at
San Josef, to arm themselves and go in quest of the enemy.
These, faithful to their teacher, put them to flight, burn their
dwellings, and escort the Padre home in peace and triumph.
The leaders of the rebellion now come in, and beg for peace.
It is concluded in 1734, with the great rejoicings of both
parties. When all is settled, the Indians confess their inten
tion to have murdered all the missionaries in the country.
A few days after this, some Indians who have been fishing off
Cape San Lucas, come running to the mission with much joy
and wonder expressed in their countenances, and inform the
Padre that a large ship is near the Cape, standing directly
toward the bay San Barnabe. The Padre sends a young man
of Loretto to ascertain what this report means, and soon
learns that a Philippine galleon has come to anchor in the
bay, and has sent a party of armed men ashore for water. The
mariners of this vessel are much rejoiced to hear that a mission
has been erected in the neighborhood ; and inform the good.
Padre that, besides their want of Water, they are so dreadfully
afflicted with the scurvy that they require his kindest atten
tions. The Padre, therefore, orders his Indians to collect
fresh acid fruits and convey them on board. At the same
time he directs the greatest part of the cattle to be driven
down for the- use of the afflicted mariners, encourages* the
Indians to assist them in filling their water vessels, and other
wise shows them every attention within his power to bestow.
Under such treatment, all the sick speedily recover, except
three. These are more diseased than the others ; and ac
cordingly, when the ship is ready to sail, they are invited to
remain at the mission. Their names are, Don Josef Francisco
de Baytos, Captain of Marines,, Don Antonio de Herrera,

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 239
boatswain, and the Most Rev. Domingo de Horbigoso, of the
order of San Augustine. They are commended to Padre
Tamaral, by Captain Don Geronimo Montero, and the Padre
Commissary, Matthias de Ibarra. The Captain informs Padre
Tamaral that the galleon will always put in here for water
and the recovery of the sick ; and desires that a supply of
cattle, may be kept on hand for them. This the Padre pro
mises, and the galleon weighs anchor for Acapulco.
The Padre takes his three patients to the mission, and de
votes his tenderest skill and assiduity to their recovery. Every
luxury or delicacy the region affords is kept exclusively
for their comfort. He sends to the neighboring missions for
the best of their stores, gives them his own food to eat. In
a word, he spares no self-denial or care for their benefit ; and
has the pleasure of seeing them all recover. But the boat
swain is attacked by another disease, which proves fatal, and
is buried with proper solemnity, in the little church. In the
following April, Captain Baytos and Padre Horbigoso, being
entirely recovered, leave San Josef for Mexico, in a vessel
which has come up from La Paz for that purpose.
The Padre missionaries continue their labors ; patiently
hoping that these miserable Indians will, in time, come to
such a state of comfort as shall, in some measure, compensate
them for their efforts. In the summer of 1734, Padre Gordon,
of La Paz, goes to Loretto to hasten the supplies for his own
and the other missions of the south. Don Manuel Andres
Romero, who superintends the mission during his absence,
discovers some disaffection among the Indians. It seems,
however, easily allayed. They appear happy and tranquil.
But under this appearance, a most sanguinary spirit is at
work ! The Indians are becoming weary of the restraint im
posed on their beastly propensities by the presence and rule
of the Padres. The greatest trial, is the abrogation of their
old laws, permitting polygamy. They are also prevented
from entering into those bloody wars which have so long been
their principal pastime ; and from seeking revenge on those

240 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
who injure them. Altogether, the restraint of Christianity,
the personal malignity of Boton and Chicori, and the de
fenceless state of the missions, encourage these ignorant sava
ges to attempt a revolt and the butchery of those whom they
esteem their oppressors. It must not be understood that there
are none among the converted to oppose so wicked a step, and
abide by their spiritual fathers through all the troubles which
follow. On the contrary, large numbers feel the deepest
grief and shame at the conduct of their countrymen. But
only a small portion of all the natives have ever professed
Christianity. So that if none of these are unfaithful, the ma
jority will be greatly in favor of the rebels.
The insurgents find some difficulty in concocting their plans.
Their only fear is lest the arms of the soldiers shall do better
execution than their own. And although among the four
missions of Santa Rosa, La Paz, San Jago and San Josef,
there are but seven, two of whom are invalids, they turn their
first attention to disposing of them. The first act of violence,
therefore, is the murder of one of Padre Taraval's soldiers,
whom they fall upon when alone and unarmed, at some dis
tance from the mission. They next repair to the Padre, and
inform him that this man is suddenly taken very ill in the
woods, and desires him to come to his relief. The Padre,
having received some vague hints of the rising difficulties,
suspects that all is not right ; and on questioning them closely,
concludes from their confused manner, that they have mur
dered the man, and intend to draw him from the house alone
for the same bloody purpose. He therefore declines going
or sending a second soldier ; but does not in any other way
show suspicion or fear. In a few days this murder is follow
ed by that of Don Andres Romero, at La Paz. This remains
some time a secret among the perpetrators ; so that they are
encouraged by these successes to more open demonstrations
in the district of San Jago ; all which the Padre, from his
defenceless condition and his desire to avoid provoking the
Indians, suffers to pass without notice.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 241
About this time Padre Tamaral is attacked with a danger
ous disease ; and being alone with the Indians of his mission,
he sends for a soldier from Loretto to act as guard, nurse and
physician. This soldier, after his arrival at San Jago, be
comes convinced that danger broods among the savages. He
communicates his thoughts to Padre Tamaral, and offers to
carry him to La Paz. But the latter thinks his fear magni
fies the danger, and refuses to go. The soldier declares he
will not stay there to die at 'the hands of bloodthirsty In
dians ; but he cannot prevail upon the Padre to accompany
him. He leaves him, therefore, and goes directly to La Paz.
As usual, on his arrival, he fires his musket at a certain dis
tance from1' the mission, to give notice of his approach. But
no answer is made. He walks up to the house. All is silent
and solitary as the tomb ! A rifled portmanteau, some broken
utensils and furniture, and some drops of blood on the floor,
tell a story which thrills the breast of the solitary man ! He
hastens on to Dolores, a distance of sixty leagues, through a
wilderness; a long road for a single man, when death lurks
under every bush and tree ! He arrives safely, however, and
immediately acquaints Padre* Guillen with the state of affairs
below. The Padre immediately sends instructions to his
brother to withdraw to Dolores. But close upon the heels
of the previous tidings, follow letters from Padre Carranco,
informing him of an insurrection among the Pericues, and re
questing instructions how to proceed. Orders are therefore
dispatched for all to repair to La Paz, whither he sends a
canoe and seventeen faithful Indians, to- bring them to Dolores,,
But the letters never reach the hands for which they are
written ! At the same time Padre Carranco sends a bpdy of
Christian Indians to Padre Tamaral at San Josef, entreating
that he will permit them to escort him to his mission for
safety and counsel. The Padre replies, that no signs of
danger have appeared in his mission ; that he thinks fear
augments small things to great; that he trusts in God, whom
he desires to serve in life and death ; and does not think his
35

242 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
condition such as to justify him in forsaking his mission.
The Indians who have been sent for him, on their return
fall in with a party of rebels, and inform them that Padre
Carranco is made acquainted with all their plans by the boy
who lives in his house. They therefore change their design
of falling upon Padre Tamaral. It is deemed more important
to cut off Padre Carranco, in order to prevent his giving in
formation of their purposes, or calling aid from other missions.
They communicate their plans to some of the converted In
dians of San Jago, and with menaces and warnings, invite
them to join their party. After some wavering they do so ;
and the whole body moves toward the mission to take the life
of their best friend and benefactor. They-reach it between
six and seven in the morning, on Friday, the first bf October,
1734. The good Padre has just left the chapel after Mass, and is
engaged at his private devotions in his own chamber. They
first inquire for the two mestizos, or half-breeds, who act as
the Padre's guard ; and are informed that they have gone, by
his order, to drive in two animals for the use of the mission.
These then are not in the house to fire upon them. Never
theless, conscious of criminal intentions, they keep at a safe
distance and send in messengers, with the letter of Padre
Tamaral. Padre Carranco is on his knees praying, when
they enter. But he rises and receives them affectionately ;
expresses his surprise that Padre Tamaral is not come with
them ; and asks if they bring no letter 1 They say " yes,"
and give it to him. The Padre begins to read ; and when
absorbed in its contents, the whole body of conspirators rush
tumultuously into the house. Two of them seize and drag
him out between the house and the church, and there hold
him by the gown, while others stab him through the body
with arrows ! And while his blood flows from the wounds,
the dying Padre offers most earnest prayer to God that He
will accept this sacrifice of his life, for his own sins and those
of his deluded Indians !

TRAVELS IN THE CAHtPRNIAS. 24S
After the wretches see that the Padre's life is far spent,
they whip him with sticks, and bruise him with stones ! His
last word is a prayer for his murderers ! Meantime one of
them sees the boy who waited on the Padre, crying bitterly
at the death of the good man, and says to him, " Why do you
cry 1 Go now, and tell the Padre what is doing in the ran
cherias !" Another adds scornfully, " as he loved the Padre,
it is but reasonable he should go and keep him company ;"
and taking him by the feet, they dash out his brains upon the
floor and walls of the house, and cast him into the place
where others are beating and stoning the cold body of the
good old Carranco.
The uproar of these infernal proceedings brings together
Indians of all ages and sexes. Some are indignant at such
inhumanity ; but dare not interpose to stop its progress. For
among the murderers are some of the principal converts,
even those who have been sent to escort Padre Tamaral from
San Josef ; the very men who joined the Padre in his morning
devotions, are now sharing the rancor and fury of others
against him. Some are heaping wood together to burn him ;
others are dragging his bloody and disfigured body, bristling
with arrows, and stiU manifesting signs of life, toward the
flaming pile ! Here they strip him, not so much for the sake
of his raiment, as to heap their execrable insults upon the
naked body of him who dared to reprove their infamous
bestialities! The shocking enormities practised upon his
corpse, their revolting scurrility and lewdness while tramping,
shouting, and jeering over his remains, must not be written.
These, and all other parts of this terrible tragedy, show that the
new doctrine of chastity and other Christian laws connected
with the wedded state, particularly that which forbids a plural
ity of wives, are the chief causes of this malignity and murder !
And now, amid savage shouts, outrages and dancings,
lasciviousness, shocking pollutions and execrations, they raise
upon their shoulders the body of the venerable Lorenzo Car
ranco and his little servant, and tumble them together upon

244 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the funeral pile ! They next proceed to pillage the house
and church ! The clothing and such furniture as they can use
they keep. The crucifixes, the statues of saints, the altars,
the chalice, the missal, and other things used in worship, they
heap upon the burning body of the Padre. Amidst the
wild exultations which accompany this act of contempt
toward the religion of their murdered friend, the two domes
tics of the Padre come with the mules. Around these, as
fresh objects of a fury not yet exhausted, they gather, and
bid them kill the animals. No sooner have they done it,
than the demon crowd pour a shower of arrows into them,
and while still shrieking in the agonies of death, throw them
upon the burning pile.
After perpetrating these cruelties at San Jago, the murderers
go toward the mission of San Josef. Their number is now
greatly increased. The disaffected from all the southern parts of
the peninsula, with many of the well-disposed who have joined
them to save their own lives, are gathered together. This
company now approach San Josef. It is the Sabbath. Pa
dre Tamaral's prayers for his poor benighted flock have been
offered at dawn. It is now eight o'clock. He is sitting in
his house, meditating on the means of extending his useful
ness to these wretched Californians, when a party of the
seditious, consisting chiefly of the Indians of his own mission,
break in upon him, all demanding something, in order that,
being refused, they may have a cause of quarrel with him.
Perceiving their design, however, the Padre replies mildly,
" stay, my children, there is enough in the house to content
you all." Being thus disappointed in getting a pretence for
resentment, and not waiting even to contrive any other ex
cuse, the very men who killed the Padre at San Jago, beat
Padre Tamaral to the ground, drag him by the feet out of the
house, and shoot arrows into his body. After this, the multi
tude rush up and demand that his throat shall be cut with the
knife which he was accustomed to use in giving them food.
This good man, like his brother martyr, prays for his mur-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 245
derers ! A villain approaches him with the knife. He im
plores God to save the soul of him who is about to slay
him ! The fatal blow is struck ! The dying man commends
himself and his sinning flock to the Great Shepherd of the
human race, and while uttering the name of the Saviour, ex
pires ! They practise more abominable insults upon the body
of Padre Tamaral than they have upon that of Padre Carranco.
And now being relieved from the fear of their victims, a
great multitude of all ages assemble, and, for many days, cele
brate their villanies with that most brutish licentiousness
with which, in the time of their infidelity, they used to
solemnize their victories !
The delay occasioned by these infernal orgies saves the
life of Padre Taraval at Todos Santos. A boy belonging to
this village happens to be in San Jago on the day of Padre
Carranco's murder ; and while the rebels go to San Josef, he
hastens home and relates what he has seen to an old man of
his rancheria, who immediately induces him to tell the Padre.
This old man offers to convey the Padre to a neighboring
island, and with his friends, die, if need be, in his defence ;
but thinks it out of their power to protect him at the mission.
While they are counselling, the boy's narrative is confirmed
by the arrival of some Indians belonging to Santa Rosa, who
have witnessed Padre Tamaral's martyrdom. There is now no
more hesitation. To stay will be madness; nay, a suicide,
which can answer no good purpose, since the Padre's presence
can proteet no one else. Indeed, there is little if any danger
to others. For they only desire to destroy the Padres, that
they may enjoy all the savage liberty of butchery and vice,
which they exercised before these men came among them.
On the night of the fourth of October, therefore, Padre Taraval
taking with him, from Todos Santos, the furniture of the altar,
repairs to the bay of La Paz, and taking all the, ornaments
and consecrated utensils of the mission at this place, goes
on board the boat which Padre Guillen has sent in compli
ance with Padre Carranco's request, and sails for the Island

246 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
del Spiritu Santo, where he fortunately meets another boat
with provisions and guards from Loretto. With these the
good man hastens to Dolores, in order to prevent the savages
from executing their bloody intentions against Padre Guillen
He arrives safely, and finds the good Padre overwhelmed with
sorrow at the fate of the beloved Carranco. But bis grief
knows no bound when he learns that Padre Tamaral has
fallen in the same manner, and that the four missions of San
Jago, San Josef, Santa Rosa and El Pilar de la Paz, are ut
terly ruined.
While this melancholy conference is being held, the insur
gents, flushed with success, repair to the village of Todos San
tos, whence Padre Taraval has just fled. Their rage is ex
treme when they find their intended victim escaped ; they vent
their disappointment on the Christian Indians in the neigh
borhood. Twenty-seven of these are killed. The rest flee !
Having now no common enemy against whom to direct
their hatred, they fall into quarrels among themselves, and
practise against each other the same treachery and cruelty
they have shown the Padres and Christian Indians !
Meantime, Padre Guillen, as superior of California, bn the
first knowledge of these outrages, writes to the Viceroy of
Mexico, informing him of their losses, and the danger
which threatens them, and begging immediate measures
may be taken to repair the one and remove the^ other.
But his Excellency estimates life and missionary effort in
California too lightly, to trouble himself much with the good
Padre's complaints. He writes that he is sensible of the dan
gers to which they are exposed, and also of the great impor
tance of the missions to religion and the King ; and that he
will, with pleasure, concur with the Padres in any state
ment which they shall judge proper to be made to their sove
reign in respect to them ; and will use his utmost interest with
his Majesty, for the adoption of such measures as shall tend- '
to promote their prosperity. He adds, that if he can obtain a
warrant from his Majesty to aid them,, he will execute it in its

TRAVELS IN THE CALIF. ORNIAS. 247
full extent. In short, the Viceroy, like many modern politi
cians and placemen, says much that is extremely flattering to
the general cause of missions, and of the faithfulness and
assiduity of these missionaries in particular, but does not raise
a hand to turn the assassin's knife from their throats.
In the meantime, as the rebellion increases, and some signs
of violence appear at Dolores, the captain of the garrison at
Loretto repairs thither with some soldiers. He finds Padre
Taraval, from whom he learns the cruel murders that have
been committed at San Jago and Josef. But as the Indians
are emboldened by their successes, and his band is very small, he
thinks it prudent to remain at Dolores, and by preserving order
there, prevent, if possible, the flame from spreading to the north
ern tribes. But notwithstanding all his precautions, the evil
tidings go forth. As' if the winds of heaven served the wick
ed purposes of the enemy, they spread in an incredibly short
spac-j of time from Cape San Lucas to San Ignacio, a dis
tance of more than two hundred leagues, and infect the com
mon Indians to an alarming extent. But the chiefs of the
tribes remain firm, and keep the Padres informed of the de
signs entertained by tlieir people. They also beg to be par
ticipants in any measures for protection which may be devised.
Padre Guillen finding affairs grow more and more despe
rate, and no assistance adequate to the emergency offering
itself, issues orders early in the year 1735, for all the mis
sionaries to repair to Loretto, and put themselves under the
protection of the garrison. These orders happily are acted
oh without the knowledge of the rebels, till the Padres are
beyond their reach. Padre Guillen once more addresses the
Viceroy, informing him that all the missions are forsaken, and
that they are still in imminent danger, even at Loretto — for
the garrison is too weak to ' contend successfully with such a
body of savages as may be brought against it, should there,
as they anticipate, be a general rising among the tribes.
These dispatches are sent to the river Yaqui, in Senora,
and, thence by Indian converts to Mexico. They arrive on

248 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. v
the thirteenth of April, 1735, and the Provincial of New
Spain immediately delivers them to the Viceroy. But though
he urges attention to them in two memorials, praying him to
consider the immediate danger of the Padres, the man of au
thority refuses to do anything in the premises. The Provin
cial has recourse to his Majesty. A ship being then ready to
sail for Madrid, he forwards to Padre Gaspar Rodero, agent
general at court of the Society of Jesus for the Indian Pro
vinces, who lays it before his Majesty, and prays his earliest
action upon it. But long before the Royal pleasure can be
known in the New World, help has come to the little band
at Loretto from the seed their own hands have sown.
It appears that as soon as it became known to the more
reflecting of the converts, that the Padres had gathered up
the consecrated utensils of the churches, and departed to Lo
retto, a sense of shame at their ingratitude, and a conception
of the value of the Padres' services, forced themselves upon
their stupid, minds, and made them repent their want of fideli
ty. Accordingly they now begin to act. Reciprocal mes
sages are sent through the country inviting each other to ren
dezvous and follow the Padres to Loretto. They come in
bands from each mission, and form themselves into a long
procession, the head men of San Ignacio bearing on their
shoulders the crucifixes of their mission, those of Nuestra
Senora de Gaudalupe, the crucifixes of their mission, and those
of Santa Rosalia, the crucifixes of their mission ; and in silent
sadness move on to Loretto, enter the fort and stand weeping
before the Padres' dwelling ! They say, " You have baptized us ;
you have taught us the name and worship of the true God ; you
have gathered us from the dry mountains to the watered vales ;
you have made us believe that good acts alone bring happi
ness ; you have made us your children ; will you now forsake
us ? We cannot live as we did before we saw you ; we do
not want to die in the crimes of our dark days !" Thus they
reason with the Padres. " It is not just," they say, " that a
whole nation should suffer for the sins of a few ; especially

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 249
when the mass are willing and able to deliver the criminal
to the punishment their evil deeds merit." With one voice
they promise to protect the Padres in every emergency.
They implore them to return ; and declare that if they refuse
to do so, they also will remain at Loretto, for they will not
live without them and their religion ! The Padres and
garrison are affected to tears by these evidences of contrition
and attachment to the faith. They delay a few days in order
to test the sincerity of the Indians. But noticing no
defection they repair to their respective districts and are
received with tumultuous joy by their people. The conspira
tors are surrendered : some of them are slightly flogged ; and
four of the most guilty of the band at San Ignacio are banished
a short time from all the mission premises.
This submission and fidelity on the part of the Californians
is followed by a most gratifying manifestation of sympathy
by the Yaquis across the Gulf. These Indians, always noted
for their honesty and bravery, assemble immediately upon the
receipt of Padre Bravo's letter detailing the condition of Cali
fornia, to the number of five hundred warriors, and offer to go
and put down the insurgents. But as the bilander, which is
to convey them, can take only a fraction of that number, they
select from among themselves sixty of their best warriors, and
send them, with five hundred bows and arrows to arm the
friendly Indians of the peninsula to fight in their stead.
With these the bilander sails and lands them near Loretto.
Thence they march to Dolores. Here they meet the com
mander of the garrison, who greets them with the warmest
expressions of gratitude for their generous conduct ; but
informs them that tranquillity has been restored among the
northern missions by the Indians themselves. It is therefore
determined to divide their strength between Loretto and La
Paz. Accordingly, a sufficient force having been left in the
former place, the remainder start in two divisions, the one by
sea, the other by land, for La Paz. On the landing of the
sea party, the strictest military discipline is preserved. This

250 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
precaution proves of no slight service. For the lawless and
still bloodthirsty savages, attack them on several successive
nights with much skill and fury. A few are killed and several
wounded. At length the land party arrives. A portion of
these being mounted on horses, which the Indians suppose to
be the running gear of irresistible monsters topped with the
trunks and heads of men, so intimidate them that they flee
and are no more seen by night or by day for some time. At
length, however, a few re-appear and join the Padres' forces.
These protest that they have always been faithful, and have
consequently suffered much from the insurgents. They
declare that the rebels have committed some recent
atrocities upon the crew of a Philippine galleon. They report
the affair in this wise. The ship arrived there from Ma
nilla with many of her crew sorely afflicted with scurvy ; and
as her signals were not answered from the mission, the cap
tain sent the pinnace ashore with thirteen men to inform the
Padre of his presence. As the boat neared the beach, the peo
ple were surprised to see neither any person nor sign of life.
The greater part of them landed and walked toward the mission,
but on their way the armed Indians rushed upon them and
killed every man, or rendered him helpless, on the spot !
Having murdered these, they hastened to the pinnace and find
ing those who were left in charge of it no more guarded than
the other party had been, dispatched them also. Thev then
seized the pinnace and broke it up for the old iron, nails,
spikes, &c. While all this was going on the captain of the
galleon began to feel some anxiety at the long delay of his
pinnace, and sent a band of armed marines in the long boat
to seek her.
A most unexpected and painful sight met the eyes of
these seamen when they reached the shore. Their pinnace
was surrounded by a swarm of leaping and furious savages.
It was already reduced to fragments ; and the dead bodies of
several of their companions lay upon the beach, trodden on
and mangled by their ruthless murderers. Dreadfully enraged

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 25.
at this sight, the mariners and soldiers leaped ashore into the
thickest of their foes and gave them battle. A few minutes
with fire-arms settled the question of victory. Some of the
villains were wounded, some killed, and four captured alive
and taken on board the ship. The narrators saw the ship
leave her anchorage and stand away for the Pacific. They
know nothing more. It soon appears, however, that the
Captain left port without making any Other attempt to pro
cure water or provisions ; and having put into Acapulco,
sent his four prisoners and an account of the murder of his
crew to Mexico. The Viceroy now begins to appreciate the
importance of protecting the missions of California. The
lives of the Padres a short time before could not be pre
served without a special warrant from Madrid. But as his
own credit at Court would suffer from the representations of
the officers of the galleon, it becomes a moral duty to quell
the insurrection. Accordingly he sends orders to the gover
nor of Cinaloa to go over to the peninsula with a sufficient
body of men to restore peace, but directs him to act inde
pendently of the Padres and never in subordination to the
Captain of the garrison. These measures of the Viceroy are
made known in California, and Padre Guillen, in order to
facilitate their execution, despatches the bilander for the
governor and his forces, and at the same time directs the Cap
tain of the garrison to repair to Dolores, and there remain on
the defensive until further orders. (
In due time the bilander returns. The governor is received
with great respect and joy by the Padres, and with the cus
tomary honors by the garrison. He, however, soon shows
that he intends to reject all advice from the former and act in the
reduction of the country as he shall think proper. He there
fore spends two years in manceuvering, and attempted hostili
ties with a fugitive foe, whom he knows not how to bring
into a general engagement. At the close of the year 1736,
he is obliged to confess that he has effected nothing for the
suppression of the rebellion.

252 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
At this time the Padres lose one of their number — Padre
Julian de Mayorga, founder of the mission San Josef de Com-
mondO. He has ruled his mission ever since its origin, 1707,
greatly to the improvement and happiness of his Indians,
and in such manner as to win the respect and love of all who
knew him. His death, therefore, is a cause of deep grief to
his brethren and the Indians of his mission. But while they
lament for themselves that he is gone, they rejoice for him
that he rests from the turbulence and anxiety which have
been the portion of all for the last three years.
The governor becoming convinced that he can accomplish
nothing on his present plan of proceeding, resolves to adopt
the Padres' advice, and take some steps which shall make
him a terror to the Indians. Accordingly he sets out with his
troops in earnest pursuit of them, and has the good fortune to
compel them to an action in which they are utterly vanquish
ed. They have, however, been too long successful to be sub
dued by one defeat. Instead, therefore, of making any
overtures of peace, they defy the governor and provoke his
wrath in a series of most annoying skirmishes. He accord
ingly forces them to a second engagement, in which they are
again put to rout. Soon after, they submit and implore his
pardon. But he rejects all their advances until they.-deliver
up the leaders, of the rebellion, especially those who have mur
dered the Padres. It will be supposed that a severe punishr.
ment was inflicted on these men. But the policy, of: the
governor and Padres in California is singularly unlike that
which prevails in the parent country. Here blood is never
shed by way of revenge or punishment. These rebels, there
fore, who have perpetrated two of the most revolting murders
on record, beside the more common butcheries of their coun
trymen and the crew of the galleon's pinnace, are tried and
banished to the coast of Mexico. On their way over, they rise
and attempt to take the bark. This compels the mariners to fire
on them and kill more than half their number. Among the
few that escape, are the two whose hands shed the blcod of the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFDRNIAS. 253
venerable Padres. One of these two is, the next year, killed
in an affray ; and the other falls from the top of a palm tree
upon some rocks, and is so horribly mutilated and torn as to
be hardly recognizable. The remainder never return to their
country. Thus, after three years of trepidation and violence,
peace is restored to California. And it is chiefly attributable
to the prudence and forbearance of the Padres that the whole
peninsula has not been deluged with blood.
The refusal of the Viceroy in the first instance to protect
the missions without a special order from his sovereign, results
in a commission from his Majesty requiring him to erect a new
garrison at Cape San Lucas ; and to take such other measures
as may be required to support the missions and maintain the
conquests of the Padres. This, like all other efforts of that
nation in similar matters, is made when the utility and neces
sity of action is past.
The Governor of Cinaloa, however, proceeds to the execu
tion of the order. The garrison is to be independent of the
Padres, and of the commanding officer at Loretto, and subject
only to orders from the Viceroy. The son of the venerable
Captain Don Estevan Roderiguez Lorenzo is appointed to the
command of the new post. He is a native of California, and
having been brought up by his father under the care of the
missionaries, and being pious, brave, prudent, and well ac
quainted with the country, is admirably qualified to fill the
office. He has thirty soldiers under his command, ten of
. whom he stations at the new camp of San Josef del Cabo,
ten at the mission of La Paz, and ten at that of San Jago de
los Coras. The young captain, however, is not thought to
act with sufficient indifference to the advice and opinions of
the Padres ; and is therefore soon displaced by a new man
from Mexico, Don Pedro Alvarez de Acevedo. At the same
time the Viceroy orders an accession of five soldiers to the
garrison of Loretto, and particularly directs that the whole
force shall be independent of the missionaries. They shall
act as an escort, indeed, during their journeyings, but while so

254 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
doing, shall be under the command of tlieir officer, and in no
wise amenable to the Padres for neglect or disobedience ; nor
shall their entrance, discharge, or payment be in any way
supervised by them.
The disorder and inconvenience growing out of this regu
lation, very soon become apparent. The^issions are fre
quently forsaken by the guards, the Padres have much diffi
culty in procuring them as escorts in their visits to their pa
rishioners ; the Indians are frequently oppressed by them
when distant from their captain ; and a system of trading and
chaffering commences between the soldiers and Indians, which
dissipates much that the Padres have labored to establish, and
seriously neutralizes their instructions and counsels. So much
evil, however, grows out of this new order of things, that at
the end of eighteen months^the Viceroy abandons it ; puts the
new garrison under a lieutenant, subject to the captain at Lo
retto, and makes these officers subordinate to the Padres.
As soon as affairs are thus established on a firm footing, the
Society of Jesus appoints new missionaries to gather the dis
persed members of the ruined missions. Meantime his Ma
jesty, continuing to receive advices of the condition of Cali
fornia both from the Viceroy and the Society, is induced not
only to order a new garrison, but to direct that the loss oc
casioned by the rebellion shall be repaired from the Royal
treasury ; and also, that the Council of the Indies shall lay
before him the best plan for effectually reducing the Califor
nias. Such means are deliberated upon, a plan for the accom
plishment of these ends proposed, and orders for its execution
signed by his Majesty sent to the Viceroy on the thirteenth of
November, 1744. He is directed to proceed in the execution
of them without delay, and also to send further information.
The reply to these dispatches rearhes Madrid after the
death of Philip V. and the accession of Ferdinand VI. His
Majesty is even more ardent than his predecessor ; and, upon
the information senfhim, issues a more particular and full set
of instructions than any that have preceded them. He de-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 256
crees that near all the safe harbors settlements shall be formed
and garrisons established ; that there shall also be a garrison
and town in the centre of the peninsula, or as near it as may be
practicable ; that facilities shall be afforded for establishing
missions at the north, in order to cut off intercourse between
the Californian Indians and those of contiguous nations ; thaf
in each mission there shall be two Padres instead of one, as
heretofore ; that in all the frontier stations there shall be a
guard under the command of the missionaries ; that the ex
pense of carrying all these orders into execution shall be de
frayed from the Royal treasury ; and finally, that the mission
aries in California shall be allowed the same salaries as are
paid to their order elsewhere. These measures give great satis
faction in Mexico and California. The hearts of the good
Padres are cheered by the assurance thus afforded them, that
they have in their monarch an earnest friend, who has come
forward in his strength to their aid. They now proceed on
their pilgrimage of holy labors, with hearts full of grateful
praise to Him whom they serve.
In the succeeding year, 1745, the following statement of
the number and condition of the missions is drawn up by the
Padres for the information of their sovereign. This table in
cludes the names and localities of the missions, of the ranche
rias or towns, and the Padres attached to them.
I. Nuestra Senora de Loretto, in 25° 30', with the Royal
Garrison, and the place where the barks deliver their cargoes —
Padre Gaspar de Truxillo.
II. San Xavier, Padre Miguel del Barco.
1. San Xavier, 25° 30'.
2. Santa Rosalia, 7 leagues W.
3. San Miguel, 8 " N.
4. San Augustine, 10 " S. E.
5. Dolores, 2 leagues E.
6. San Pablo, 8 leagues N. W.
III. Nuestra Senora de los Dolores del Sur, formerly San
Juan Baptista Malibat, or Ligui — Padre Clement Guillen.

256 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
1 Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, 24° 30'.
2 La Concepcion de Nuestra Senora.
3. La Incarnacion.
4. La Santissima Trinidad. '
5. La Redempcion.
i 6. La Resurreccion.
IV. San Luis Gonsaga — Padre Lamberto Hotel.
1. San Luis Gonsaga, 25°.
2. San Juan Nepomuceno.
3. Santa Maria Magdalena, on Magdalena Bay.
V. San Josef de Commondu, without ¦ a missionary since
the death of Padre Francisco Xavier Wagner, 12th October,
served by Padre Druet.
1. San Josef, 26°.
2. Another village 1 league W.
3. Another " 7 leagues N.
4. Another "10 " east, on the shore.
VI. Santa Rosalia Mulege — Padre Pedro Maria Nascimben.
1. Santa Rosalia, 26° 50'!
2. Santissima Trinidad, 6 leagues S. S. E.
3. San Marcos, 8 leagues N.
VII. La Purissima Concepcion — Padre Jacobo Druet.
1. La Purissima Concepcion, 26°.
It has six other villages within 8 leagues round Cabecera, the
metropolis of the mission, the names of which are not enumerated,
VIII. Nuestra Senora de Guadaiupe— Padre Josef Ctastiega
1. Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, 27°.
2. Concepcion de Nuestra Senora, 6 leagues S.
3. San Miguel, 6 leagues S. E.
4. San Pedro and San Pablo, 8 leagues E.
5. Santa Maria, 5 leagues N.
IX. San Ignacio— Padre Sebastian de Sistiaga.
1. San Ignacio, 28°.
2. San Borgia, 8 leagues.
3. San Joachin, 3 "
4. S. Sabas, 3 "
5. S.Athanasio, 5 "
6. Santa Monica, 7 «
7. Santa Martha,! 1

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 257
8. Santa Lucia, 10 leagues.
9. Santa Nynfa, 5 "
X. Nuestra Senora de'los Dolores del Norte — Padre Fer
nando Consag. This mission is joined with that of San Igna
cio, and cultivated by the Padres Sistiaga and Consag ; within its
district, which lies 30 leagues from San Ignacio, and in the Lat.
of 29°, there are already 548 baptized Indians.
XI. Santa Maria Magdalena, begun in the north by the same
Padre Consag, who writes concerning it to the Padre Provincial,
Josef Barba ; yet no convenient place for its seat is to be
found, though the converts are as well disposed and regular as
those of San Ignacio.
XII- San Jago del Sur, Padre Antonio Tempis.
1. San Jago, 33°.
2. The anchoring place of Santa Maria de la Luz.
XIII. Nuestra Senora del Pilar de la Paz. Of this mission
no account comes with the others ; nor of those which have
been restored, which are —
XIV. Santa Rosa in Palmas Bay.
XV. San Josef del Cabo de S. Lucas at the station of the
new garrison.
XVI. San Juan Baptista, begun in the north at the village
of San Juan Baptista, but not yet established.
These are the missions o*f Lower California in the year
1745. They contain about twenty-five thousand converts
living comfortably under the paternal government of the
Jesuit Padres. Padres Salva Tierra, Kino and Ugarte are
dead ; but the good deeds which they have done, like the
grass and the flowers on their graves, grow greenly, bud
and blossom, and shed on the deserts of the Californian pe
ninsula, a perpetual harvest of temporal and religious joy.
The handicrafts which they have taught them ; the science of
agriculture which they have given them ; the animals which
they have reared around their dwellings ; the great idea of
a God; and the awards which He has woven inseparably
with the elements of life, mind, and every fcondition of being ;
the discomfort, debasement, and misery of vice ; the quietness,
37

25S SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
elevation, and happiness of virtue ; all these, the Padres have
scattered — seeds, bearing the fruits of the social and religious
relations, and the numberless comforts of the civilized state.
These integral laws of immortal rationality, have germinated
among the wastes of man, under the kind plantino- of the Pa
dres, on the Californian Peninsula. A mighty deed of moral
suasion ! Not by the steel of conquest, which drinks the blood
of the weak, and opens the red pathway to physical suprema
cy ; slaying body and mind ; enslaving and murdering. This
conquest of the Padres is a victory of Love. Instead of the
torpedo, they plant the rose of Sharon ; instead of the starless
night of bondage, they bring the full day of knowledge — filled
with the industry, trust, faith, hope and energies, of a ripened
freedom. Who can contemplate these Missionaries, enduring
the hardships which have been partially related on these pa
ges, and not venerate their memory ? They have voluntarily
come from the shrines of early remembrances, and torn from
the heart its young and tender impulses. They have left on
the cold fields of the past, every tie of kindred, and the natu
ral hopes of humanity. They have taken the vows of God on
their souls ; separated their hands and thoughts from every
selfish service ; and with bosoms bared to every shaft of possi
ble events, entered the abodes of savages, shielded only by
their good deeds and holy purposes ! They have conquered
Lower California. It has become a part of the domain of the
Spanish crown.
From 1745 to 1767, the Jesuit Padres continue their labors
at .these missions. The Spanish government, meanwhile, give
them small relief from the famines occasioned by the failure
of their crops. They mainly depend upon the products of the
mission plantations, and the rude manufactures of 'the Indian
artizans, for every comfort of life. And not only do they sus
tain themselves, but every year brings in the ships from the
Philippine Islands, with crews rotting of the scurvy, for the
Padres to feed, clothe, restore to health, or bury in their ceme
teries

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 259
Their labors of love, however, draw to a close. The soci
ety of Jesus or Jesuits, to which they belong, has existed
about two hundred years. It has sent its missionaries into Per
sia, Hindostan, Ghina and Japan. It has written more than
one hundred volumes in the Chinese language alone, many
hundreds more in the different dialects of the Eastern tongues ;
has chided and controlled the civil powers of Europe ; has
made the kingdoms of the whole earth feel its power. The
Pope himself holds his throne at the sufferance of this mighty
association. The most profound learning of the age is found
in their colleges, and the most vigorous moral movements of
the times receive their life from them.
Whenever the sword of Conquest is drawn over the head of
the defenceless, the Jesuit's hand arrests its fall, or alleviates
its wound. In fact, on the American continent they have
spanned the whole breadth of human society, except that part
of it existing between the Alleghany mountains and the At
lantic, and brought a large majority of the native population
under their control. In Paraguay indeed, they have organ
ized armies, and established an Empire of their own ; and from
California to the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, Spain, holds
sway only so far as these priests permit. They protect the
savages against the ruthless cruelty of Spanish barbarity.
England in 1604 has expelled them from her dominions ; Ven
ice in 1606, Portugal in 1757, France in 1764, Spain now in
1767, does the same.
That government would have the sole sway over the bones,
sinews and intellects of the Indians. Its worthless officials
would be unrestrained in the use of them, to dig for the pre
cious metals, and work their plantations. The Jesuits have
prevented 'this. They have uniformly befriended the Indians
and elevated their bodily and mental condition. They have
so organized and enlightened them, that they can annihilate
the Spanish name from the continent, in a day. This state of
things is well known. A remedy is devised. Secret orders
of government are issued from Madrid to every Alcalde and

260 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
military commandant in Spanish territory, to prepare shif 6 and
other means of transport, and on a given day, nine months
from the date of the edict, ,to seize and ship to Italy every
Jesuit within its dominions. And so profoundly secret is this
measure kept, and so complete is its execution, that on the day
appointed, all the individuals of this order in Europe, Amer
ica, and the Spanish islands, are on route, to the several ports
from which they are to sail for their destination. The worthy
Padres of California are now, therefore, taking leave of their
weeping converts. The whole land is sad. The services of
the churches are interrupted with their lamentations. The
poor savages crowd about the departing Padres for a blessing
How shall they console their grief 1 Who shall love and la
bor for them 1 Who shall teach, pray for them, and rear them
step by step onward, to the high estate of a virtuous, enlight
ened and religious people 1 Alas, poor Indians ! from this day
onward, you return to vice, and fade away.
This is the history of the conquest of Lower CaUfornia, by
the priests of the Catholic church. Religious men persuaded
the Indians into submission to the civil authorities of Spain.

CHAPTER XV.
Padre Junipero Serra; — An Expedition by Sea, for the Conquest of
Upper California— Arrival at Loretto — Expeditions by sea and land
to the North — Arrivals at San Diego — Ceremonies of Founding a
Mission — A Battle — Going Northward — Naming the bay of San
Francisco — Return to San Diego — The Resolution of Padre Juni
pero — An Arrival — Departure for Monterey — Founding a 'Mission,
&c. — Arrival of thirty Monks — Other Missions Established — Padre
Junipero goes to Mexico — Great Scarcity of Food — Padre Junipero
returns by Sea — A Land Party from Mexico — Exploration to
55° N.— A Diabolical Plot at San Diego— A Dreadful Battle at
Night — Death — Mission Destroyed— San Juan Capistrano — Mission
and Presidio of San Francisco Founded — Death of Padre Junipero —
Number of Missions in Upper California — Dates of their Establish
ment—Progress, Wealth and Influence of Missions — Mexican Revo
lution — General Echeandra arrives in California — Measures taken
to destroy the Missions — A Revolution — California Independent —
Declaration of Rights — Alvarado and Villejo — Jose Castro — Don
Carlos Antonio Carrello — Domestic War among Californian Free
men — Operations of the Grand Armies of the North and South —
A Victory of Noses-^Return of Upper California to the Mexican
Dominion. As related in my account of Lower California, the Jesuits,
who have brought the Indians of the territory into subjection
to Spain, and induced them to embrace the Catholic faith, have,
in 1767, been expelled from these scenes of their usefulness.
And now, that the influence of this powerful society is pros
trated, the Government turns its attention to the conquest of
the country by the employment of another religious order,
who are supposed to be more subservient to the dictates of
the civil authority.
In 1768, Padre Junipero Serra, a Franciscan monk, is ap-

262 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
pointed Missionary President of the Californias, and arrives at
San Bias in the month of February of this year, accompanied
by a staff of sixteen brothers of his own order, from the Con
vent of San Fernando. Here he meets sixteen of the ex
pelled Jesuits, in sorrow that their forsaken flocks must return
to the misery of the savage state. These men have labored
long to plant the tree of life in the rude soil of the savage
heart ; it has begun to put forth its branches to the sun, and
shed its odors over the land ; but while the fruits of their
trials are being garnered, they have been compelled to retire
from the harvest, and leave others to reap or despoil.
On the twelfth of March, 1768, Padre Junipero and his
associates sail for Loretto in the same vessel which has
brought the Jesuits thence, and arrive there in safety about
the middle of the following month. Padre Junipero is a
worthy successor of those great and self-xlenying men who
have preceded him in this field of martyrdom. IJis own pe
culiar faith in religious things is warm and far-reaching. He
sees on the barren heights of the Californian peninsula, many
a dwelling-place of righteousness for future generations ; and
hears in the solemn midnight, the voices of angels en
couraging him to his work. The miracles wrought in the
days of the primitive church, he believes may still be wrought
by the saints militant ; and that the mighty arm of faith will
yet bringdown Omnipotence, to mould anew the distorted
world. He unites with his zea 1 various and extensive learning.
The ancient and modern languages, with all their stores of
philosophy and eloquence, are known to him. The life of
courts— the sweets of the social ties— the vast and stirring
acts of the world moving on to its civil and religious desti
nies, are familiar to him, for he has mingled with them, di
rected and enjoyed them. Yet Padre Junipero has landed in
the wilderness of California, and begins the duties of a mis
sionary among its Indians !
He dispatches his brethren to the several missions north
and. south, and remains at Loretto awaiting the arrival of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 263
Josef Galvoz, the Visitador General, whose commands are to
guide him in his labors. This dignitary arrives at La Paz in
July, with orders from his superiors to visit the missions in
Lower California, to superintend expeditions about to be
dispatched to San Diego and Monterey in the upper pro
vince, for the establishment of missions and forts. Soon the
three packet boats of this undertaking arrive. They are called
the San Bias, San Carlos and San Antonio. In them are
provisions, agricultural implements, and seeds of Spanish and
Mexican grains, fruits and esculent roots, to be planted at
the contemplated establishments. They will need cattle,
horses and mules. A party therefore is organized to drive
these over the country to Monterey. The San Carlos is ready
for sea, and the Visitador General fixes the day for her de
parture. In this vessel is Don Vincent Vital, Commander,
Don Pedro Prat, Lieutenant, twenty-five Catalonian volun
teers, a good ship's crew, and Padre Fernando Parron. Death
has visited the Spanish vessels in these seas ever since Cortez'
iron prow ruffled them. In all the north the freezing
hand of the Great Destroyer is seen ! No living men on
board the San Carlos dare unfurl the canvas till heaven is ap
peased. The red cross is therefore raised to the peak, the
orange flag of Spain floats beneath it ; and the crew and the
soldiers and officers, and priests with shaven crowns, are
gathered on the deck ; the holy sacrament is administered by
Padre Junipero ; and Mass is said to San Josef, the chosen
patron of these expeditions ; the vessel and colors are blessed ;
an absolution and benediction administered to the people;
and the vessel San Carlos leaves the harbor of Loretto on the
ninth of ^puary, 1769, on her voyage to Upper California.
The San Antonio sails from Cape San Lucas on the fifteenth
of the following month. Her commander is Don Juan Perez.
She has on board Padres Juan Biscayno and Francisco Go
mez, and her crew. The San Josef leaves Loretto on the
sixteenth of June of the same year.
Meanwhile the land expedition is being forwarded with all

264 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
possible dispatch. It is divided into two companies ; so that
if one of them shall be destroyed, the other may chance to be
saved. Don Gasper de Portala is the commissioned Governor of
the Californias and commander of this land expedition. He is
a captain of dragoons in the Spanish army. Captain Fernando
Rivera y Moncada is his second. The latter receives command
of the first division of the landsmen ; and in the month of Sep
tember, 1768, takes up his line of march for the north. He soon
arrives at a place now called Nuestra Senora de los Angelos,
on the Indian frontier, and having found some supplies and
baggage, sent in launches from the missions to this place, he
proceeds eighteen leagues northward, to a valley of excellent
pastures, wood and water, and halts. Here he remains until
the first day of March, 1769, and again marches northward,
until the twenty-fourth of the same month, when he arrives at
the port of San Diego, in latitude 32° N. Here he finds the
San Carlos and San Antonio at anchor. These vessels have,
suffered greatly from storms and contrary winds. The first
arrived on the first of May, 1768. Her whole people, except
the officers, cook, and one seaman, have died of the scurvy
and thirst and hunger. The San Antonio arrived on the
eleventh of April, having lost eight of her crew by the scurvy.
The San Josef was not seen after she left Loretto. Don
Rivera y Moncada, his twenty-five soldiers, his three mule
teers and his converted Indians, Padre Crispi and a midship
man, now form a camp upon the green plain, and rest from
the fatigues of a march of fifty-four days, over the dry crags
of the Californian wilderness.
The second part of the land expedition, with its mules,
horses, black cattle, muleteers and baggage, on trre thirteenth
of May, 1769, are at a place called Villacata ; and Padre
Junipero and the Governor are with them. They are waiting
the arrival of the troops ; and while thus unemployed, ex
amine the surrounding country — find it valuable, and conse
crate it to the use of the mission in the neighborhood called
San Francisco de Borja ; and hither this mission is to be

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 265
removed. The ceremony of consecrating the location of this
mission is worthy of being known. The soldiers and mule
teers clear away the rubbish from the future site of the church
— hang seven bells upon the trees, and form a grand cross.
This is the work of the first day. On the second, Padre Ju
nipero, invested in robes, blesses the holy water, and with
it sprinkles the site of the church and the cross. The latter,
adorned with flowers, is then erected in front of the conse
crated area. This- mission then receives its name, San Josef.
The first Mass is now chanted — and Padre Junipero pronoun
ces a discourse upon the coming of the Holy Ghost. The
sacrifice of the Mass is now concluded, and Veni Creator is
sung. In the progress of all this there is a constant dis
charge of musketry. The smoke of the burning powder is
the only incense from the mountain altars of this day's wor
ship. They leave Vellacata on the 15th of May, 1769, and direct
their course northwardly towards the mouth of the Colorado ;
but after travelling above thirty-five leagues, their progress is
intercepted by a steep and rocky mountain, over which
their cattle cannot pass. They therefore return southward as
far as the frontier mission, San Borja. Having rested them
selves and their animals a few days, they take a route in a
north-westerly direction. Forty-six days do they travel.
The southern half of their way passes through a sterile rocky
country with occasional fruitful valleys skirted with timber.
The northern half is plentifully supplied with streams of water
running among rich savannas clothed with the wild grasses,
roses, and vines bearing a large sour grape. The timber is
not abundant — but on the hills the deep loamy soil frequently
produces the live oak and other valuable trees, and the vales
which run up from the seaside, are often clad with heavy
forests. Many Indians meet them. The males, both old and
young, are entirely naked, while the females 0/ all ages are
covered with rush mats and skins from their breasts down
ward. Their food consists of seeds, fruits, and fish. Thev
38 '

266 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
are uniformly familiar and friendly. On the first day of July
they pitch their camp on the beach among their countrymen,
at the long-sought port of San Diego.
As the crews of the vessels have been thinned by death,
till there are scarcely enough to man one of them, they
cannot proceed farther north without recruits. Accord
ingly the remaining members of both crews are put on board
the San Antonio, and the ship dispatched to San Bias for
more seamen. It is also determined that the Governor shall
lead the principal part of the landsmen along the shore to
Monterey. , The Padre's President and two missionaries and
eight soldiers are therefore detached to remain at the newly
consecrated mission of San Diego ; and Don Gasper Portala,
the Governor, with one servant, the Padres Juan Crispi and
Francisco Gomez, with each a converted Indian to attend on
him, and Don Fernando Rivera y Moncada with his sergeant
and twenty-six soldiers , and his lieutenant Don Pedro Foxes,
with seven Catalonian soldiers, and Don Miguel Coirstanzo,
engineer, and seven muleteers and fifteen Indians from the
southern missions, start over land to Monterey. They search
the cocst for bays and harbors, examine the lands and their
products, pass the harbor of Monterey without recognizing it,
go north to the Bay now called San Francisco, and give it
that name under the following circumstances: — When the
Padre President, Junipero, received orders from the Visitador
General respecting the names of the new missions which he
was sent northward to found, perceiving that the name of the
Patron Saint of his order of priests was not among them, said,
" And is our Father San Francisco to have no mission assign
ed to him?" To which the Visitador replied, "If San Fran
cisco wishes to have a mission, let him show you a good port,
and then it shall bear his name." When the Monterey expe
dition, therefore, see this unequalled bay, they exclaim,
" This is the port to which the Visitador referred, and to
which the Saint has led us," and immediately called the bay
Bajia del San Francisco. They now erect a cross on the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 267
western shore of the southern great arm of this bay, and hav
ing taken possession of the country in the name of their sove
reign, . celebrate the Mass, commence their return to San
Diego, and arrive there on the twenty-fourth of January,
1770. During the half year occupied by this expedition, the Pa
dre President Junipero is not idle at San Diego. On the six
teenth day of July, 1769, he consecrates the foundation of a
mission. This is the day of Ihe year, when in 1212, the
Spaniards, under the banner of the cross, prostrated the power
of the Mahomedans in the south of Spain; and the good
Padre Junipero hopes that the same banner shall yet wave
over the Gentiles of Upper California. He chants the Mass,
celebrates the triumph of the Holy Cross, sprinkles the ground
with the baptismal water of the Church, and calls it San
Diego, or Saint James. Afterwards he dedicates one of their
huts to the use of a temporary church, and invites the Indians
to. attend service; presents them food which they reject;
gives them small pieces of cloth with which they are greatly
delighted ; yet they cannot be persuaded to bow before the
cross, and gladden the Padre's heart by embracing the Catho
lic faith ; but on the contrary, they allow their desire for cloth
to induce them in the night time to go on large rafts built' of
bulrushes to the ship San Carlos, and purloin a part of her
sails. This act is followed by precautions to prevent its repe
tition ; yet as no punishment is inflicted on the thieves, they
arm themselves with bows and arrows, wooden swords of keen
edge, and formidable clubs, and begin to steal so boldly that
the Spaniards find it necessary to oppose them by force ; and as
soon as their determination to do so is manifested, the Indians
resolve to accomplish their designs by war. On the thirteenth
and fourteenth days of August, therefore, they force their way
into the quarters of the people and carry off several garments
and other valuables; but are driven away without an attempt
to kill any of them. On the fifteenth, it becomes necessary for
Padre Fernando to go on board the San Carlos to celebrate

26S SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the Mass with two soldiers who guard the ship. Padres Ju
nipero and Biscayno are left on shore with only two other
persons able to do duty ; and the Indians, perceiving the advan
tage to be derived from the absence of one of the boldest of
those they would rob, gather in large numbers while the
people are at Mass, and begin to carry away everything they
find, even the sheets that cover the sick ! The corporal calls
" to arms!" whereupon the Indians retire a short distance and
shoot their arrows. And now the four soldiers, the carpenter
and blacksmith commence firing their guns. The latter,
although he has no armor to protect him from the arrows,
charges upon the savages, crying out, " Long live the faith
of Jesus Christ, and die the dogs his enemies !" Meantime
the Padre President Junipero is praying that none may be
hurried to the world of spirits with their sins unforgiven.
The battle rages on, accompanied by the terrible war-cry of
the savages. An arrow takes effect ; a boy called Josef runs
in great haste and prostrates himself at the Padre's feet, ex
claiming, " Father, give me absolution, for the Indians have
killed me." The Padre absolves him. The arrow has passed
through his throat ; and he immediately dies ! His death is
kept secret and the battle continues. Many of the savages
fall. They drag away their dead and dying, till at length,
panic-smitten by the destructive effects of fire-arms, they flee
to the hills in great precipitation !
It cannot be known how many of these savages have
perished by this mad act. Very many are known to be
wounded ; for in a few days their friends bring them into the
mission and entreat the Padres to cure them : and the surgeon
and the Padres treat them kindly till restored to health
Padre Biscayno, one soldier, an Indian Christian, and the
brave blacksmith are wounded ; but in a short time all the
whites, except the poor boy Josef, are well again. This un
successful attack has a salutary effect on the Indians. They
come fearfully into the mission every day, and treat the Padres
and the religion they teach with deference. A boy about

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 269
fifteen years old is among the most frequent and devout Him
the Padre President teaches the Spanish language, in order
that he may learn the prayers and catechism, and act as inter
preter. He learns easily, and is soon able to inform his coun
trymen that the Padre desires to baptize their children, and
instruct them in the Catholic faith. One is selected from
the many which are offered, and the holy water is about tc
fall from the Padre's hand, when the parents of the child
snatch it away, to the great grief of the Padre and the indig
nation of the soldiers. The latter in their zeal ask permission
to destroy these blaspheming gentiles. The good Junipero
denies them.
Distress follows these Franciscans as it has the Jesuits. Tht
country is unploughed and yields little food. The San Antonic
has gone to San Bias for supplies ; but heaven only knows if
the storms will spare her to save them from starvation. She
has already been absent so long that they begin to fear she is
lost. The Governor, therefore, orders an account to be tak
en of the provisions on hand, and riotifies the Padre Presi
dent that they can hold out no longer than March following ;
and that if the ship should not arrive by San Josef's day, the
twenty-fifth of that month, he shall abandon the enterprise, and
commence his return to Loretto. This announcement greatly
afflicts the Padre Junipero. Leaving the country he feels will
carry with it for a long time to come, the abandonment of the
Indians to their heathenism ; and he retires to his closet and
implores aid from Heaven. God is his master ; from Him he
seeks light. San Josef is the Patron Saint of his holy enter
prise ; from him he seeks celestial intercessions with the Ruler
of events. The conversion of the Gentiles is the work
which burdens his heart ; and he holds the cross toward Heav
en and vows never to leave California till he has thrust the
spiritual plough into the glebe of its moral wastes. He com
municates his resolution to the Governor, and awaits the ap
proach of the eventful day with the greatest solicitude. The
twenty-fifth of March at last comes. The Padre greets its dawn-

270 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
mg light with the chants of the Mass, and the celebration bf
the most sacred services of the church. The people are called
together at mid-day, and prayers are most devoutly said and
praises again sung to the Creator.
The good Padre speaks. He draws an exhortation from the
Laws of God. He exhorts as one soon to be left alone in a
land of martyrdom. He ceases ; he blesses; and the tide of
thought and emotion is now setting upon the busy movements
of the departure for Loretto, when lo! in the offing is per
ceived the outline of a vessel standing towards the land !
Was it an omen ! shadowed on the rim of the sky to arouse
faith in God? It disappears during the night ! The sun rises
and sets over the hot seas three times afterwards, and it does
not re-appear! The fourth day dawns and waxes to the me
ridian, and wanes on the western waves! And when night
shuts in, the cable of the San Antonio rattles its rude saluta
tion to the silent shores around the Bay of San Diego !
On the arrival of this ship with provisions and a recruit of
men, it is determined to make another expedition to Monterey.
A party by land and another by sea, are detailed for the under
taking. Both leave San Diego, about the middle of April, 1770.
Long and tedious are the voyages of these infant days of navi
gation. Forty-six days are spent by the San Antonio in
making 4° of latitude. On the thirty-first of May, how
ever, Padre Junipero with joy beholds from the ship the green
hills around the bay of Monterey. The anchor is let into the
waters, the boats are lowered, they shoot away to the shore ;
the land expedition having arrived eight days before, meet their
countrymen on the rocks at the beach. The first and second
of June are spent in that hearty social intercourse, which
those alone ever feel who have thrown their hearts for months
on the cold breast of the wilderness. Dangers incurred, suf
ferings endured on rock and surge, remembrances of the sa
cred past, the sensations of dawning joy crowding on past mis
ery like day on the heels of night, cluster around the mind and
bid the affections increase the pulsations of life. On the third

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 271
of June, they celebrate their landing. It is Pentecost day.
The-officers and men of the sea and land expeditions assemble
under a great oak tree near the shore. They erect an altar in
its shade, hang bells on its branches, and proceed with their
services. They chant Veni Creator, consecrate the water, erect
and bless a grand cross, unfurl the royal standard, chant the
Mass, and sing a Salve to the Virgin, whose image occupies
the altar. And after the Padre Junipero has delivered a pa
thetic discourse, a solemn Te Deum is sung to the Great Cre
ator. The officers now take formal possession of the country
in the name of their king. These ceremonies being completed,
they repair to a shady place on the beach and dine, as they
have worshipped, amid salutes of small arms, and the cannon
of the vessels. Thus is commenced the settlement of Mon
terey, in Upper California. All this done, the Padre President
proceeds to found the mission of Monterey, in the same man
ner as he has done that at San Diego. But he finds it more
difficult to induce the Indians to avail themselves of his teach
ings. The firing of the artillery and muskets at the celebra
tion of the first Mass, has so terrified them, that the heart of
the excellent Padre is not gladdened by a baptism, till the
twenty-sixth of the following December.
Meanwhile the ship San Antonio being detained some time
at Monterey, the Padre President is enabled to explore portions
of the neighboring country. He finds the fertile soil so abun
dant and the natives so numerous, that he writes to the chief
of the College of San Fernando in Mexico, that a hundred
more missionaries may be well employed in the Californias.
This favorable account of the country induces the Viceroy at
Mexico to order thirty Franciscan monks to proceed to San
Bias — twenty of whom are destined for Lower and ten for
Upper California. The latter sail from San Bias in the San
Antonio, on the seventh of January, 1771, and on the twelfth
of March, put into San Diego, sorely afflicted with the scurvy
They go overland to Monterey. The monks destined for

272 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Lower California are less fortunate. Their ship, the San Carlos,.
is allowed by its unworthy commander to drift ashore, in the
Port Mansanillo, a fine harbor lying some distance south frpm
San Bias; and the poor friars, left to shift for themselves, are
compelled to toil over three hundred leagues of rough, path
less, uninhabited coast along the ocean and gulf, till they find
themselves on the coast of Senora opposite to Loretto. They
cross the gulf to Loretto, thither the San Carlos follows
them in the month of August, having been eight months at
sea, between two ports which are now but five or six days'
sail apart.
The reinforcement to Upper California enables the presid
ing Padre to found a new mission which he dedicates to San
Antonio de Padua. This station is built among the green
hills of Santa Lucia, about eight leagues from tho Pacific coast
and twenty from Monterey. The grounds are broken and the
seed sown ; but a blighting and untimely frost comes and the
total loss of the wheat is threatened. The Indians are dis
heartened and still more so the Padres, who anticipate with
keen forebodings the loss of their bread. They send the Chris
tian Indians to .the woods to gather seeds, roots, fruits, &c, for
their subsistence, as in former times has been their custom.
The Padres strengthen their own and the Indians' faith, by a
firm reliance on their patron saint ; and to conciliate his high
est favor, they resolve to celebrate his Novena with all their
converts. At the same time they take the more business-like
precaution of irrigating the blighted field; and in a few
days, such is the efficacy of the water, and still more, as they
believe, their prayers, that the resuscitated grain field is
seen springing into new life. At the end of the Novena, the
whole field is covered with beauty and promise, and at harvest
yields more abundantly than was ever before known. This
encourages the new converts, and kindles the gratitude of the
Padres. Meanwhile new efforts are resolved on in San Diego ;
and on the tenth of August, Padre Pedro Ca'mbon and Padre
Angel Somera, with a detachment of ten soldiers and the re-

TRAVELS IN. THE CALIFORNIAS 273
.',quisite number of mules and drivers, set out. and travel north
wardly. When they arrive at the river Temblores, about forty
leagues from San Diego, and while they are seeking a desira
ble site for their mission, the Indians, armed and led on by
two commanders, rush from their lurking-places with dread
ful yells and the most unequivocal demonstrations of hostility.
The Padres dread bloodshed. They exalt the image of" Our
Lady ;" the subdued savages prostrate thernselves in crowds
around the standard ; allow them without interruption to pro
ceed with the solemn ceremonies of founding the mission of
San Gabriel ; and the swelling notes of the first Mass chanted
in these solitudes, mount to the ear of the Omnipotent in the
year 1771, from a little group consisting of the Padres, the
rude soldiers, the careless muleteers and wandering Indians,
gathered under the spreading boughs of a tree on the conse
crated ground, just as the sun is rising to bring the anniversary
of the nativity of the Virgin.
The Padres have now divided their forces as much as
practicable. No more missions can be founded till help ar
rives from Mexico ; and oppressed with care, labor, hunger,
and anxiety, lest the Indians should relapse into their hea
thenish belief and practices, they remain with little to en
courage their minds, or strengthen their fainting hearts, until
the autumn of 1772, when Padre Junipero founds the mission
San Luis Obispo de Tolozo, and in November embarks at San
Diego for Mexico. There he struggles with the Viceroy
Bucareli to prevent him, if possible, from abandoning the port
of San Bias as a naval station ; and so successfully presents
the cause of the infant missions to him that he is induced to
finish a frigate which has been begun at San Bias, for the
purpose of exploring the coast of Upper California, and
also to freight a packet boat with provisions for Monterey.
But again these navigators, on whose skill so much depends for
the comfort and sustaining of the missions, fail through igno
rance, negligence, or misfortune, to reach the port of destina
tion ; and the packet enters the bay of Loretto without her
39

274 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
rudder, and otherwise disabled from proceeding on her voyage
So that the good Padres, with their ignorant, helpless de
pendents, are doomed to another tedious famine. For eight
months they subsist almost exclusively on a scanty supply of
milk. But in the meantime, food and aid and kind hearts are
on their way to them from Mexico. The indefatigable Padre
Junipero toils faithfully till September, 1773, when, with
missionaries, officers, soldiers, and a large supply of necessa
ries, consisting of maize, beans, flour and clothing, to the
value of $12,000, he joyfully embarks for California. He
has also procured the despatch of an expedition, under the
command of Captain Juan Bautista Anza, through the interior
by the rivers Gila and Colorado, in order that the disasters
by sea which have so often overwhelmed the missions with
disappointment, famine and despair, may in future be averted
The good Padre himself proceeds to San Bias, and freighting
the packet San Antonio and the new frigate Santiago with
his supplies, embarks on his return in January of 1774, and
after forty-nine days' sail puts into San Diego.
Monterey is the place of destination ; and Padre Juni
pero proceeds thither over land, that he may visit the various
missions on his route. Anza's land expedition is there : and
the Padre rejoices to learn that there is no obstacle to a land
communication between Mexico and Monterey. But the
pleasure arising from this discovery is greatly lessened by the
announcement that there are no provisions among the people,
and that famine is rapidly wasting the energies and hopes of
his new establishments. The good man's heart is wrung by
this tale of suffering, and he hastens on with a few supplies ;
but finds at his arrival on the eleventh of May, that the
frigate he left in San Diego is two days in advance of him,
and that the hungry are already fed. Joy and welcome every
where meet the Padre President ; the Friars hail him as a
loved brother and strong companion ; the poor Indians as a
father and protector. Thus strengthened and encouraged; the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 275
laborers of the cross toil on. Meantime the frigate, which is
under orders from the Viceroy to explore the northwest coast,
departs from Monterey on the eleventh of June, proceeds as
far as Lat. 55° N., and finds an inlet which they name Santa
Mar garitaj and returns. In March of the next year, she makes
another expedition, accompanied by a schooner under the
command of Bodega, afterwards the friend of Vancouver.
As these vessels, however, are Separated in a gale on the
thirtieth of July, the frigate proceeds to Lat. 49° N.,
and puts back in search of the lost schooner; arriving
at Monterey on the twentieth of August, she finds her
consort riding at anchor in the bay. The failure of these ex
peditions seems rather to stimulate than cool the enterprise of
the Viceroy. He orders a new frigate to be built at San Bias,
and sends a naval officer to Peru to purchase a vessel to ac
company her over these vexed waters. These vessels sail
from San Bias on the twelfth of February, 1779, under com
mand of Don Ignatio Artiago. Two missionaries^ from the
Convent of San Fernando accompany the expedition. The
object of the voyage is to discover a water passage from the
Pacific to the Atlantic. They reach Lat. 55° N. on the third
of June, and discover a strait which they call Bucareli. Here
they look in vain for a passage eastward ; and about the first
of July proceed still farther northward. On the first of Au
gust, in about Lat. 60° N, they discover a large and safe
harbor, with abundance of wood, water, and fish. This they
name Santiago ; and after spending several days in searching
an inconsiderable creek for the passage, the prudent com
mander, finding his crew infected with the scurvy to an alarm
ing degree, and dreading the rigor of the advancing season,
resolves to return. Accordingly he sails southward, and on
the fifteenth of September, 1779, safely moors his little fleet in
the harbor of San Fernando. The return of this expedition
is hailed as a momentous event in the progress of the conquest.
While the civil arm is thus extending itself over the unex
plored wilderness, the spiritual warriors lose none of their

276 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
ardor The accession of laborers and the abundant supplies
brought by the Padre President enable the missionaries to
prosecute their holy enterprise with renewed energy. New
missions are founded, the old ones zealously advanced. Con-
Verts are added to the flock, and everything encourages
the hearts of the lonely self-sacrificing Padres. In the
fall of the year, 1775, however, a most diabolical plot is laid
and partly executed by the unconverted Indians aided by two
apostates, for attacking San Diego, and murdering the mis
sionaries and other white persons. The onset is made in the
dead of night, by two strong bands of armed savages; and
the good Padres, all unprepared for defence as they are, with
their feeble force of a few soldiers and mechanics, have but
a small chance of escap-e. One of them, the Padre Luis, is
cruelly murdered and chopped in pieces, and Padre Vincente
is dangerously wounded. A whole night is spent in this pre
carious defence, and at sunrise the Indians retire, carrying
away their dead and wounded. All the whites are wounded,
some of their buildings are burned, and their peaceful in
tercourse with the Indians is sadly interrupted.
The Padre President at Monterey hears of this calamity, and
resolves to proceed at once to San Diego to repair, as he best
may, the misfortunes of his brethren. He is prevented from
reaching them until June of the following year ; when with
the aid of the crew of the Princesa, he re-builds the burned
tenements, and by his influence renews the amicable inter
course of the mission with the natives. On his return, he
founds the mission of San Juan Capistrano. Here he is at
tacked by hostile Indians. But he escapes all dangers, en
dures all trials, and on reaching Monterey, prepares to establish
the mission of San Francisco, on the bay of that name. Great
preparations are made for this event. Supplies are sent to
the harbor of San Francisco in one of the packet boats, and
the good Padre with a small detachment of soldiers, and a
number of families with cattle and mules for the new mission,
leaves Monterey on the seventeenth of June, 1776. Ten days

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 277
pass, and they arrive near the proposed site of their future
home on the banks of a beautiful lake near one of the arms
of the bay, select a situation for the Presidio, and cut the tim
ber to erect it. The natives, meanwhile, throng around to
witness their labors and make .demonstrations of friendship-
The vessel arrives on the eighteenth of August The work
progresses, and on the seventeenth of September, they take
solemn possession of the new garrison. The holy cross is
planted above the peaceful waters of the bay, and the silent
hills re-echo the chanting of the Mass, the sublime Te Deum
and the roar of artillery and musketry, announcing to the
untamed tenants' of the wilderness, the dominion at once of
the cross and the sword. The same ceremonies attend the tak
ing possession of the mission on the ninth of the following
November. These objects accomplished, the vessel returns
to San Bias.
The faithful Padre Junipero continues his labors without
ceasing, founding in addition to the missions already named,
those of Santa Clara, Santa. Barbara, and San Buenaventura.
But his efforts draw to a dose. He has thrown the gushing
energies .of a warm and kind heart upon the arid wilderness.
Solitude, famine, heat and cold, thirst and hunger, have been
welcome as the sole conditions under which he could perform
his errand of mercy and love to the red man. And now that
the holy cross which his hands have planted, gleams heaven
ward from the dark bosom of these wastes, and devotion
blends its gentle tones with the harsher pceans of the winds
and waves, and the voices of human industry, the good Padre,
worn out with the fatigues and anxieties of his arduous post,
must prepare to rest from his labors. The hand of age is
upon him ; his head whitens ; his frame bends and trembles ;
his steps falter ; he leans upon his younger and more vigor
ous brethren for support ; and at last his grateful and beloved
spiritual children, the sons of the forest, see him no more. He
retires to die. His heart clings to those who have so long
lived under the protection of his fostering hand, and the last

278 SCENES

IN

THE PACIFIC.

beating of life mingles with

a prayer for blessings on his in-

fant missions. The bereaved Friars watch his last breath and

close his eyes on

the da]

r of San Augustine, in the year 1782.

His life has been

nearly

se^

renty-one years long ; fifty-three

of which have been spent

in holy orders, thirty-five in the

stern and trying

duties of

a missionary in the New World.

Thus closed the life and

earthly labors of Padre Junipero.

NAMES OF MISSIONS, AND

DATES OF THEIR FOUNDATION.

Date of Four

dation.

Missions.

1769,

-

-

- San Diego, [de Monterey.

1770,

-

-

- San Carmelo, or San Carlos

1771,

-

-

- San Gabriel.

«

-

-

- San Antonio de Padua.

1772,

-

-

- San Luis Obispo.

1776,

- -

-

- San Juan Capistrano.

1777,

-

-

- Santa Clara.

1779,

-

-

- San Francisco.

1782,

-

-

- Santa Buenaventura.

1786,

-

-

- Santa Barbara.

1787,

-

-

- La Purissima Concepcion.

1791,

-

-

- Na Sade la Soledad.

1794,

-

-

- Santa Cruz. •

1797,

-

-

- San Miguel.

«

-

-

- San Jose.

a

-

-

- San Juan Bantista.

it

-

-

- San Fernando.

1798,

-

-

- San Luis Rey de Francia

1817,

-

-

- San Rafael.

1822,

-

-

- San Francisco Solano.

-

-

- Santa Ines.

These missions

at length

became very rich, and from 1793

to 1820 sold an immense

quantity of hides and tallow to Ame-

rican and British

ships

which visited the coast. An anec-

dote related to me by an

in

telligent man in California is in

point. Previous to 1793 the Padres killed the surplus" bulls

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 279
of their herds, saving the hides, and leaving the tallow to rot
on the plains ; because it was an article difficult to preserve
until foreign ships should begin to visit them and furnish a
market ; and thus untold quantities of it were lost. One of
the Padres, however, who had a little more chemistry and
other worldly wisdom than his brethren, caused his Indians to
dig a very large and deep vat in the earth on a shaded spot,
and line it well with brick and a durable cement, in which
from year to year, as his bulls were killed, he stored his tal
low ; and thus continued to dn, till the trading ships called for
the deposit ; when it was found that his vat contained three
large cargoes of excellent tallow.
The cattle in the missions at this period were very numerous.
Most of them had from eighty to one hundred thousand each.
They also had bands of horses and other kinds of stock pro-
portionably large. The Padres of a single mission not unfre-
quently purchased an entire cargo of goods from American
merchants — and such were the known resources of their es
tablishments, and their uniform punctuality and honesty, that
these cargoes were frequently delivered to the priests with
no other security than their verbal promise to pay. Indeed,
these old Franciscan Friars, who entered this wilderness clad
in their grey habits with sandals on their feet and the cross in
their hands, were men for whose equals in mental power, in
physical courage and moral intrepidity, we shall seek in vain
in these days of vapid benevolence, of organizations which
spend their money in sustaining a system of denunciation,
instead of applying it with day-laboring energy for the extir
pation of the evils against which they inveigh. These men had
not made addresses before the assemblies of anniversary occa
sions, but had wielded the pruning hook of holy truth and-cf
the principles of the social state, and of the refining and ex
alting virtues, upon the unpruned territories of degraded
human nature. They had not bewailed the woes of men at
the point of a goose-quill, and from the dark walls of a com
plaining heart shut up in an indolent body, sent forth a sack

280 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
of theories for alleviation, which the world must adopt before
a freezing hand can be warmed or a hungry mouth filled.
But they had bared their hearts to the arrow of the savage
and gone out to the theatre of personal labor, driving before
them domestic animals bearing seed-grain, the plough, the
axe, the spinning-wheel and the loom, gathering the stupid
wandering Indians into communities, rearing the edifices of
Christianity and the family condition on the shore of that
great ocean girded with heathenism and wretchedness, opening
its unploughed plains and training them to yield their increase to
nourish the body — andfrom the garner of Heavendrawing man
na for the soul. They did not teach religion only and at all times,
and rely on that as a nutriment for the rearing and comfort of
the whole man. On the contrary, they recognized in the human
being a nature allied to matter as well as spirit ; with faculties
which connect him as a material existence with his material
abode, and powers of mind which were made to teach him
his relations to the material world, as well as those which
raise the hand of religious faith to the skies, to seize the
hope of the after world. Like knowing and reasoning, as
well as pious men, they cared for the bodies as well as the
souls of those whom they went to convert to Christianity.
And in bringing the Californian savages into that industry
which must always accompany true virtue and piety, the
labor of the converts produced in that climate, where so little
is required to sustain them during unproductive seasons, a vast
amount of surplus wealth. This the Padres alone were capa
ble of throwing into the market ; and consequently, at the
period just spoken of, the business of the Californias received
its origin, its character and impulses from them. Society from
them took its form and its tone ; and the Government of the
country was as mild, wise and just, as these unpretending
men who directed its action. The golden age was this of the
Californias. The Indians in the whole of Lower, and that
part of Upper California which lies between the first range
of mountains and the sea, and extending from San Dieo-o to

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 281
the north till it embraces the shores of the Bay of San Fran
cisco, were gathered into missions ; not less than seventy-five
thousand of them were living, laboring and worshipping
God with the Padres on those immense plantations! Their
granaries were filled with grain, their orchards were l.aden with
oranges, plums, pears, citrons, lemons, apples and figs. Their
vineyards covered the hill-sides, and their flocks and herds the
plains ! If a stranger arrives in the Californias, and approaches
a mission, the Indians and Padres go out to meet him ! He re
ceives the welcome of sincere hearts. The wine from the
vineyards — the bread and beef and frixoles are. placed before
him, and the Padre's best bed given him. He is pressed to re
main, not a cold hour of freezing ceremony and suspicion, but
months — during life if he will — in their hospitable abode. But
if he will travel on, ,he is furnished with horses and attendants to
the next mission, where he is again welcomed and treated in a
similar manner, and thus he journeys through the entire country
;f he desires, and leaves it with regret. But the history of this
delightful realm shows a change in the features of this scene.
In 18-21, New Spain had achieved an independent national
existence, and adopted a partially republican form of govern
ment. The Californias, removed by their geographical situa
tion, as well as the feelings of their people, from the wars and
rictories of that eventful crisis, had retained their loyalty to
old Spain until as late as the year 1825, when General
Eehuandra arrived in Monterey with full powers to receive
the submission of California to the authorities of the Mexi
can Republic.
The first act of this functionary was to require of the Pa
dres to take the oath of allegiance to the new Government.
This they could not do according to the rules of their Order,
without the consent of their Prefecto — the Padre President.
This priest declared himself unwilling to give his consent
until his King had abandoned the sovereignty of the Califor
nias ; whereupon General Eehuandra arrested him,, conveyed
him to Monterev, and banished him to Manilla.
40

282 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Immediately after the Padre Prefecto's banishment, Eehu
andra made a tour of the missions, assembled the Indians in
each, and by an interpreter, explained to them that the Mexi
can Government had directed him to declare the Indian con
verts of the Californias to be free citizens of the Mexican
Republic— released thereafter from what he termed slavery to
the Padres, and subject only to the laws of the nation and hisv.
commands as its official agent ; aud that all those who bore
good characters, and had learned agriculture, or any of the
useful arts by which they could gain a livelihood for them
selves and families, he was instructed to say were entitled to
have lands assigned them on the mission premises, and a pro
portionate quantity of the animals, as cattle, horses, &c,
and be gathered into parishes with Padres to superintend them
who should be subject to the missions; that those of them,
who had not learned agriculture, or other useful art, or had
not sustained reputable characters, must remain at the
missions and earn by their increasing knowledge and virtue
a title to freedom and the rights of property. The Padres
were required to aid in carrying out these mandates of the
Republic, and at the same time to continue their work of
converting and training the Indians for the civil and social
state contemplated by the Government. Meantime the General
informed the Padres that their yearly stipend of four hundred
dollars would be indefinitely withheld ; ordered them to have
bells rung whenever he approached the missions ; and to in
struct the converts that they, as well as themselves, were
subject to his authority.
This course of the Mexican Government appears on its
face to be one of those high moral acts which a single age
seldom sees twice performed. The Creator has sent down to
us, through the train of ages, the evidence that in the begin
ning He created as great a variety of the human genus as He
did of any other race of living beings. From the New Hol
lander, who is connected to our kind by a physical form but
little superior to that of the ape, and by the instinct and ca-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 283
pacity to build a fire to warm his frame when beset with cold —
to the Negro — the Hottentot — the Indian — the Asiatic and
the European species, there is a gradual development of beauty
and capacity of body and mind, which forces us to think that
the same harmonious variety was introduced into the creation
of the human family, which is so manifestrin other orders of
the animal world. Among celestial intelligences, too, there
are greater and lesser stars of existence ; and the Great Ma
ker burns above them all. Such variety is a palpable fact on
earth. The highest obedience to God is the recognition of
Him in His own character, and of creation as it fell from His
hands ; and having done these things dutifully, to place our
selves in the ordained relation to the external world, to other
men, to ourselves and to Him. One of the noblest acts in
this line of obedience is to say to those who are for wise
purposes made inferior, to us, be free — be men. And if we
had no other sources of information from which to learn the
real nature and intent of the course of the Mexican Govern
ment towards these Mission Indians, we should place it amono-
the noblest deeds of men. But unfortunately it deserves
equal distinction of an opposite character. Let succeeding
events be heard in evidence.
These declarations of Eehuandra and the banishment of
their Prefecto, diminished the Padres' hopes of perfecting
what they had so gloriously begun — the rearing, the Indian
population by degrees to the labors, the thoughts, the religion
and happiness of civilisation. They well understood what al]
men will eventually come to know, that an ignorant, stupid
species of the human kind, never was and never can be free
before their stupidity and ignorance are removed ; that the
introduction of such people as civil agents among a body
of citizens of the higher species, who sustain the re
sponsibilities of advanced society, is attended with no good
( to any party ; but on the contrary", attaches to the acts and
thoughts of the*higher, advancing and thinking species,, the
antagonism of 1 the unthinking,.the indolent and degrading in-

2S4 SCENES N THE PACIFIC.
ferior, whose influence can only be to weaken the moral
power of their superiors, and draw them off with all the force
of physical indulgence to the confines of barbarism. They
perceived, indeed, that freedom to their converts, from their
paternal restraints, was only an illusive synonyme of annihi
lation1; that tbey would, when removed from the action of a
superior intelligence, return to the savage state, or use their
liberty in following their strongest instincts, which, after all
their labors, were towards vices alike ruinous to bodily and
moral health. The Padres, for all these causes, became dis
couraged, and made less effort for the temporal enlargement
of their missions. The departure of their best neophytes to
the, lands assigned them by the Government, left them only
the refractory and the ignorant to work the lands, guard ne
herds and flocks, and manufacture the cloth, leather and wine,
and these being encouraged by Eehuandra, neglected then
labor, and insulted the Padres when punished for so doing.
They even went in bodies to Eehuandra arid complained that
the Padres insisted that they, the free citizens of the Mexican
Republic, ought to cultivate the mission farms ; and the Gen
eral encouraged them in their folly. They informed him that
the Padres withheld their rations, unless they cultivated the
land to raise a new supply ; and Eehuandra assured them they
had reason for dissatisfaction. And on one occasion, when a
Padre was insisting on obedience to these wholesome regula
tions by which they had been elevated from the most abject
barbarism to the comforts of a partially civilized state, the
deluded creatures threw him violently upon the ground, and
otherwise abused him. This, Eehuandra assured them, was
an act worthy of a citizen of the Mexican Republic.
While the Padres were thus seeing the mission plantations
becoming covered with weeds, the buildings going to ruin,
their influence over the converts lessening, and these, their
spiritual children, given to drunkenness, gambling, theft, and
lasciviousness, a party of young Friars from the Convent of
San Fernando, in Mexico, were distributed among some of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 285
the missions, and the Padres resident commanded to in
struct them in the Indian languages and other matters
which would prepare them to supplant their teachers. The in
fluence and usefulness of these excellent men was, by these
measures, rapidly undermined, till the year 1827, when two
of them, Padres Repol and Altemira, of the mission Santa
Barbara, fearing for their personal safety, secretly left the
country in an American vessel bound to Boston, and sailed
from that city to Spain. In the year 1835, others left with
passports from Government, and went through Mexico to
Spain ; and others, worn out with labor and sorrow, died in
the country and were buried under the .churches of their
missions. In the same year a body of Franciscan monks from the Col
lege atZacatecas, were sent into the Californias by the Gov
ernment. To these were assigned the rich missions lying
north of San Antonio. The old Padres retained the poorer ones
lying to the South. Thither these good old priests retired,
banished fronuthe missions they had reared, and deprived of
the means of comfort which they had procured ; and now, in
those inhospitable places, they continue to perform their spirit
ual functions, deprived in their old age not only of the com
forts, but of the very necessaries of life. Aged men, tottering
grey-headed men ; men who had in youth left the abodes of
civilized life ; who had forsaken father, mother, kindred, and
for forty years toiled in the Californian wilderness; plough
ed the soil, built churches and dwellings ; brought into life,
justice and hope and music and prayer to the God of the Uni
verse ; under whose hands the trees of virtue and civilisa
tion flourished, adorning the hitherto barren wastes of mat
ter and soul; such were the men condemned by' a selfish
anarchy to wretchedness and want. But "a '.-policy so blind
brings evil as its legitimate result.
In 1835, the whole power of the priests over the temporal
affairs of these establishments, in both the Californias, was
transferred to officers of government called Administradores.

286 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
One of these was located at each mission. Their duties osten
sibly were to farm them for the benefit of the converts, in order
to allow the Padres their whole time for their spiritual labors.
But the actual object of this measure was to bring the income
and property of the missions within the grasp of the hungry
leaches of the Californian Government. , For, immediately after
the appointment of these officers their wants became pressing,
and they began to send orders for hides, &c, to the Adminis-
tradores, which were uniformly honored and passed to the credit
of the missions.
Thirty thousand hides and as many arobas of tallow, had
been the annual export of this country ; but now, a slaughter
of the animals commenced, which surpassed the annual in
crease ; and the Padres encouraged the defrauded Indians at
the yearly branding, to let many go unmarked and run wild,
in anticipation of the approaching period, when tyranny would
drive them from their homes to the wilderness. The effects
of these measures were to decrease the number of cattle and
the amount of the products of the missions, paralyze the in
dustry, deteriorate the morals of the whole community, and
introduce in the place of the mild and paternal government of
the Padres, the oppressive anarchy of a weak and cruel mili
tary despotism ; the more despicable in itself, as it proceeded
from a source where liberty and equality was the theory, and
slavery and robbery the practice of the governing class.
In the year 1836, a quarrel arose between the Mexican Go
vernor at Monterey, and a custom-house officer by the name of
Juan Baptiste Alvarado, in regard to thedivision of certain bribes
which had been paid to the officers by the supercargo of a for
eign ship, as a remuneration for entering upon the government
books only half of the cargo, and admitting the remainder for a
certain sum in specie and goods, paid to themselves; and the first
result of the difficulty was a revolutionary movement under
Alvarado and Graham, as I have heretofore related. But it is
necessary here to add that, after the surrender of the Mexican
authorities, the foreigners and Californian Spaniards assembled

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 287
at Monterey and passed these resolutions as the basis of a pro
visional government.
1st. Upper California is declared to be independent Of Mex
ico during the non-re-establishment of the Federal system5
which was adopted in 1824.
2d. The said California shall be erected into a free and
governing state, establishing a congress which shall dictate all
the particular laws of the country, and elect the other supreme
powers necessary, declaring the " Actual Most Excellent De
putation Constituent."
3d. The Religion shall be the Roman Catholic Apostolic,
without admitting the exercise of any other ; but the govern
ment will not molest any persons for their particular religious
opinions. 4th. A Constitution shall regulate all the branches of the
Administration " provisionally," in conformity as much as
possible with the expressed declaration.
5th. Until what is contained in the foregoing articles be
put in execution, Senor Don Guadalupe Vallejo shall be
called to act as Command ante General.
6th. The President of the " Most Excellent Deputation"
shall pass the necessary communications to the municipalities
of the Territory.
These proceedings were followed by the banishment of the
Mexican Governor, officers and soldiers from the country;
the proclamation of Juan Baptiste Alvarado, Civil Governor,
and his uncle, Senor Don Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, Military
Governor, or Commandante of the "Republic of Upper Cali
fornia." Meantime this new Government had placed the seal of final
ruin upon the missions. The official corps which had formerly
drawn salaries from the Central Government at Mexico
was now dependent upon the resources of the country. The
Revolutionists and Lawgivers owned large plantations, many
of which grazed ten or fifteen thousand head of cattle, besides
horses, mules, sheep, &c. But these were private property,

288 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
not to be taxed for public purposes by these self-denying
patriots. The missions, therefore, were resorted to for the
means of supporting the Californian Government during the
years 1836, 1837, and 1838 ; .and sad was the havoc made
upon them by those base descendants-of the Chivalry of Spain.
As soon as information of this Revolution in Upper Cali
fornia reached Mexico, the Central Government, with Busta-
mente at its head, and a kennel of worthless cowards to bark,
but never to bite at approaching danger, raised, as is the
custom of that hybrid nation of Indian and Spanish Don Quix-
ote-Sancho-Panza-Rosinante-Windmill-Furiosos, on such
occasions, an army of fulminating proclamations to the citi
zens of La Republica Mexicana, and the remainder of the
universe, to arm themselves and proceed in terrible array,
dealing death elbow-deep in annihilation, against these auda
cious and unnatural sons of the great, brave, free, glorious,
and never-to-be-insulted or conquered nation of Mexico. But
these Californians were true, at least, to the weakness and fol
lies of their Spanish blood. Nowhere on the vast plains
and mountains of one-half of this continent is there anything
Spanish, whether negro, Indian, mulatto, or mestizo, in which
may be found anything stable and bloodless. The character
of these people may be summed up in these few words : vola
tility, ignorance, stupidity and pride, coupled with the basest
and most cowardly cruelty. Their very language is a furious
hyperbole, and their entire nature as a people, is the superlative
degree of the adjective frothy, without a substantive of any
sort to qualify. The lofty chivalry of Spain was buried in the
tombs of the American discoverers and conquerors. Its corslet
and spear have fallen into the hands of their Indio-Spanish
descendants ; and a more worthless rabble of bastards never
assumed the name of nation.
See these Californians. No sooner had they declared their
independence and rid themselves of the officers from
Mexico, than they divided into two parties ; the one in the
North under Alvarado of Monterey asserting complete ir/de-

Bustamente. — P. 288:

41

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 289
pendence of Mexico ; and the one in the South under Don
Carlos Antonio Carrillo, seeking to unite the country again to
the parent State. And a blight of idiocy must have fallen on
that mind which cannot perceive in the events that ensued,
the terrific tread of oppressed human nature, when, clad in
the armor of its own avenging power, it goes forth to the
conquest of its rights. The Ides of March ! How ominous !
Caesar quailed in March ! And how much more ought all
the enemies of the great Alvarado's supremacy to have shaken
from heel to crown, when, on the fifth of that dreadful month
of March, he announced to his troops that Don Pedro, the
Russian Governor at Bodega, had received letters from St.
Petersburg, containing news that France and England had
resolved to place Iturbide II., son of the Emperor Iturbide I.,
upon the throne of Mexico ! ! The reader may almost see
His Excellency's wrath kindling at this proposed encroach
ment on the liberties of nations. " What, France and Eng
land pretend to foist a monarch upon the people of Mexico,
and even upon His Excellency of California !" — and that too
while he was Governor ? Such impudence, if it were not
" ridiculously impotent as against Mexico, would be found so
in regard to California ! !" And to this effort at patriotism
and self-complacency, see his heroic Californians emitting
some fumes of bravery, accompanied with a series of consola
tory threats, stamping their feet on the Lord's footstool, and
strongly grasping their swords, looking things unutterable
enough to put a notable end to the hopes of Iturbide II.
During this daring demonstration for freedom, Alvarado is
universally believed to have stood firmly at his post, and un
shrinkingly done his |tuty. The Don in the South also is
reported not to have lost a meal of beans on account of this
startling intelligence. Courage in California, as elsewhere,
is a fine tonic for weak nerves. The event too which sue
ceeded this in the history of the Californias found both these
worthies in the field of glory. So that if some ignorant reader
should presume to say, at this point of our narration, that the

290 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Don was less brave, patriotic, or in any other sense less a
Californian cavallero, than Alvarado, he is desired to suspend
the expression of such an unworthy opinion until he shall
have read the following account of a campaign which, I am
¦ credibly informed, is considered by the warriors of that coun
try the most remarkably glorious on record.
In the spring of 1838, a courier arrived from Santa Bar
bara, bearing a message of mighty import from the illustrious
Don Carlos Antonio Carrillo to Alvarado the Conqueror.
Its purport was that the high — mighty — invincible — and
ever-to-be-dreaded Central Government at Mexico, had bared
its puissant arm, stretched it out, raised it up, brought it down,
and at a single blow, made and put together a gentleman
Don, to wit, Don Carlos Antonio Carrillo, and constituted
him the Goubernador del Alta California : and with the ex
ercise of the like resistless power had ordered the said Alva
rado — villain — robber — slave — to surrender, lay down, and
for ever after eschew the sceptre of Goubernador del Alta
California ; unto which message His Excellency, in the true
Castilian spirit, and with as much good sense as any one had
a right to expect of him, Alvarado the Conqueror, replied.
" On seeing the commission of my successor, and on finding
it conformable to the usages of the Nation ; and on obtaining
from him my said successor, a guaranty of safety to my per
son and property, and also to the persons and property of
those who acted with me in the Revolution of 1836, 1 will
resign the reins of government into the hands of my illustri
ous uncle. Otherwise not — never!" This response of the
lofty Alvarado was soon en route towards the dwelling-place
of the Don. But the mountainous character of the country
over which its bearer passed retarded its speed so much that
the sixth day had well nigh closed before the indignation of
that exalted man was fired at the story of Alvarado's inso
lence. It was fortunate, undoubtedly, that so much time was
allowed to elapse between the development of the courage
necessary to enable the Don to send the messenger to Alva-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 291
rado, and that effort of sublime forbearance required to re
ceive his answer. For it is deemed an established principle
in the physiology of courage as well as of steamboats, that
too great a pressure upon the internal surface of an enclosing
boiler will cause a bursting, disastrous, in a certain sense, to
tliose in the vicinity. Soldiers going into battle for the first
time are said to give the happiest illustrations of this law.
Be this as it may, however, true it is, that when the courier
related to him all that the Governor had said, the exalted
Don exhibited a capacity in the manufacture of fury at short
notice, which made the floor tremble on which he stood ; and
it is currently believed that if there had not been a hiatus be
tween the demand of the Don and the said refusal of Alva
rado, greater danger to the integrity of the Don's physical
system would have been the unwholesome consequence. As
it was, however, that immense personage merely took a glass
of native wine, and summoned his friends to arms for doing
battle in behalf of La Republica Mexicana.
Alarm, that protecting genius of all cowards, is declared to
have a swift wing. At all events, no sooner did the banner
of the glorious old Don begin to flap on the breezes of wake
ful night, than she presented her fluttering form at Monterey,
and whispered in the ear of Alvarado, of power, of camps,
of carnage fields, of fame's bold clarion, and the terror of
his uncle Don. All these things put together made one
other thing quite clear to Alvarado's vast comprehension ;
namely, that he must again take to the field — the field in
which in 1836 he had earned bright laurels, and again fight
as he then did, for country and freedom, or bow submissively
before the overpowering valor of his great rival. Nor was
his genius at fault in this trying exigency. He took his reso
lution ; and having done so, what else could the world .have
expected, than that his Excellency and the never-to-hje-
equalled Captain Jose - Castro, of villainous memory, should
call the troops to arms and march for the seat of war. And
this they certainly did as nearly as circumstances permitted ;

292 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
that is to say,, Alvarado remained in Monterey, three hun
dred miles from powder and ball, and Jose Castro marched
towards Santa Barbara with an army of six men.
The Don meanwhile was not inactive. He wisely deter
mined, as a first step, to take military possession of Santa
Barbara. Accordingly, from the balcony of his habitation,
which the foreign residents had fitted up for him at El Pueblo
de los Angelos, he gave notice to his veteran army assem
bled one hundred strong, that he should march immediately
upon that devoted town and sack it according to the rules of
war. After a long and tedious forced march on horseback,
of thirty miles, in a single day, over a grassy and undulating
country, during which they endured more, if possible, than
their forefathers did in all their wars with the Moors, they
arrived on the 20th of March, 1838, upon a hill about two
miles from that village, encamped, held a council of war, and
hnmanely determined to send in a flag, and an expression of
their unwillingness to shed blood; but the messenger was
especially instructed to announce, that the town of Santa
Barbara must be surrendered, or the veteran army would take
possession of it, if, in so doing, they " trode at every step
upon the pulseless hearts of the dying inhabitants !"
The Commandant of the place was not so much frightened
by this announcement as he ought to have been. But, on
the contrary, knowing probably that the old Don was a man
of his word and not of deed, sent back the following reply.
" Senor Carlos Antonio Carrillo had better not be in haste to
enter Santa Barbara. Alvarado will soon make his grand
entrance. If, however, the Don should deem it his duty to
sack Santa Barbara, it will be mine to yield to the disagree
able necessity of preventing such a catastrophe, by firing on
his ranks and destroying the lives of fellow-countrymen. God
and Liberty !" This message was more terrific than satisfac
tory to the commander of the invading army. But as night
soon cast its protecting mantle over the fierce brows of the
immortal one -hundred, it was never known to the fullest

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 293
extent how much heroism they exhibited when ordered into
quarters for the night, with the injunction to hold themselves
ready for the dreadful work of death at a moment's warning.
It is however known that a mounted picket guard was sta
tioned on the ' hills, and a strong patrol along the ravines,
between the camp and the town, and that all, Napoleon-like,
slept upon the eve of vast events ; that the next morning
dawned ; the earth turned on its axis, showed the sun and hid
it again ; and that the army of the Don neither left its en
campment, nor took possession of Santa Barbara ; and that
night came again ; that patrols and pickets were stationed as
before. But such apparent inaction was not to continue
On the morning of the 23d, a movement clearly showed that
irresolution was no part of the Don's nature. And well did
he exclaim, as he addressed the soldiery on that most memora
ble day, — « The pent fires of Californian bravery, who can
quench them ? What one of us, whether plebeian born or a de
scendant of the Spanish Cavaliers, will flee before the servile
minions of the ignoble Alvarado 1 What man with a
heart quickened by Castilian blood, will not pour out that
blood in defence of California, and the union of the Mexican
States ? " To this appeal a response arose and echoed among
the hills, in that hearty and lusty manner so characteristic of
Spanish Californians, and other animals distinguished for long
ears. He next commended the courage displayed, and the
valorous exploits performed in the siege they were prosecut
ing. " They had crowned their names with deeds of immor
tal renown." And then the officers' swords flamed from their
scabbards, and the privates stood shoulder to shoulder in the
most threatening attitudes of the genuine warrior, as the Don
took breath, and with emphasis remarked, that the army of
Santa Barbara was approaching ! ! ! It approached ! ! ! All
saw it ! ! ! Halted ! ! The Don reconnoitred ! ! and horrible to
tell — the opposing forces numbered one hundred and four
noses ! ! His own, himself included, one hundred and one only ! ! !
A difference of three whole noses, against the ©on ! ! ! And
42

294 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
who in California knew better than he, the power and effect
of such superiority ? Who understood more clearly than the
Don, the execution which that number of noses might do in
the approaching struggle for " law and order ? " But who,
among all living and dead heroes, could better rally the
energies required to meet that horrible crisis, than the Don ?
None ! His horse even partook of the overpowering mag
nitude of the energies that bestrode his back, and ' bore
his rider along the line with unwonted speed and fire as the
order boomed along, for the soldiers to prime anew their pans
—shoulder their gleaming muskets, and retreat within the
walls of the Mission Santa Buenaventura ! !
Three days after this intrepid retreat of the invading army,
the redoubtable Captain Jose Castro arrived at Santa Bar
bara, with the army of the North, six men strong, well ap
pointed with muskets, powder, ball, and Californian patriot
ism. His entry was a triumph ; rendered sweet to that warrior's
heart by the consciousness of being looked upon, while his
army defiled through the streets, as the saviour of all the mud
walls, tiles, and babies of that famous town. He repaired to
quarters in the barracks, dined with becoming dignity, and
smoked a cigar. After this important business had been dis
patched, he summoned before him the authorities, and made
an exhibit of the luxuriant love of country, which had led
Alvarado — that superlative adjative of the genus homo, to
assume the government of Alta California, and assured the
Commandante, and Alcaldes, that he was authorized and ready
to receive the surrender of the place, and the fealty of the
inhabitants to the Revolutionary Government. He added, that
he hoped it might not be necessary for him to use force in the
premises. This latter intimation, backed as it was by the
standing presence of the army of six, was deemed of great
service to humanity, for no hesitation was manifested by the
population, amounting to some six hundred souls, about sub
mitting to the new order of things so gallantly proposed to
them by the renowned Captain.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 295
The next act Of Captain Castro which history will delight
to record, was that of arresting certain persons at Santa Bar
bara supposed to be favorable to the pretensions of the Doh ;
namely, Pedro C. Carrillo, the old Don's son, and a Don An-
gelo, former Administrador of the Port of Monterey, under
the late Mexican authorities. The former he put on board
the bark Kamamula, and sent to sea for safe keeping; the
latter was transmitted to Monterey as a trophy of the glorious
victory achieved by the Grand Army of six at Santa Barbara.
Captain Castro tarried only two days at Santa Barbara.
But during that short space of time he was enabled^ by using
that indefatigable industry and intrepidity for which he was
so remarkable, to make the two arrests which I have men
tioned. And although it has been said by persons presumed
to be envious of the Captain's right to call himself the Napo
leon of California, that these prisoners made no attempt to
escape, but, on the contrary, surrendered themselves without
resistance, yet the impartial historian will undoubtedly find,
on thorough investigation, that he who captured Graham and
others with so much bravery and renown, could not, in the
possibility of things, have done this act so tamely as the ene
mies of the Captain would maliciously represent. Captain
Castro was a Napoleon, and by what specious sophistry can
mankind be made to believe that he did not arrest SenOres
Pedro and Angelo, in a manner worthy of that immortal
name ?
On the third day, the Grand Army of the North being in
creased by the people of Santa Barbara to one hundred men,
and supplied with three field-pieces, moved against the Grand
Army of the South at San Buenaventura. They arrived in
the night ; and while the darkness shielded them from view,
they planted the cannon on the heights overlooking the Mis
sion, and otherwise prepared themselves for the horrors of
the coming day. When the morning dawned, the Captain
had the satisfaction to perceive that his position had been so
well taken that the garrison of the opposing forces was com-

296 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
pletely at bis mercy ; and like all other great men, being
shocked at the idea of shedding blood so profusely as he must
do, if he opened upon the Mission the terrors of his cannon,
he sent in a flag and demanded a surrender. But, strange to
say, the Don, not having before his eyes the fear of Castro's
ammunition, refused obedience to this reasonable request, and
commenced a brisk discharge of musketry from the walls.
This was answered by those outside with both muskets and
cannon. The work of death thus commenced went on until
the shutting in of night on the fourth day ! How grateful were
the shadows of that night to the besieged ! The lighted taper
that burned at the altar of the Chapel, sent a straggling ray
over the area within the walls, and glimmered faintly on the
arms of the Don's soldiery ! But neither that light from the
altar of hope, nor the beaming bayonets of the besieged vete
rans, could inspire their hearts with the firmness required to
prolong so terrific and destructive a conflict. In the silent
moment of midnight, therefore, more than half of the Don's
remaining troops made a desperate sally from the gate, and
not being opposed for awhile, believed that their intrepidity
had saved them ! But they were unfortunately mistaken !
The Captain's sentinels had noticed their operations, and
sounded the alarm so bravely that they surrendered them
selves at discretion, without waiting for the unnecessary cere
mony of being captured, or in anywise endangered. ,
After these men had thus daringly given themselves up to
their foes, their companions, the glorious old Don and all,
tapitulated. And now came the calling of the rolls and the
burial of the dead ! Sad rites to those who survive such days
of carnage ! Forty-eight hours of cannonading on the one
side, and of busy musket-shots on the other ! ! How many
had ceased to breathe, was the anxious inquiry ! The offi
cial returns read thus, <• Of the army of the South one man
killed. Of the army of the North, one man wounded. — God
and Liberty." It is proper to observe in this place, that it
was afterwards a question often raised between the soldiers

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 297
of the two armies, whether the Don or the Captain surrendered
But the most authentic accounts rather favor the opinion that
the Captain had the better of the battle. And I have little
doubt that when the Hume of that country shall write its
annals, and some unborn Ossian shall sing of the mighty tread
and thundering bucklers of the Castros and Carrillos of that
streamy land, they will not only commemorate the bloody
ramparts of San Buenaventura, but speak worthily of the
Don, as great even in defeat, and of Captain Jose as glo
riously triumphant. This idea is remarkably strengthened by
the fact that as soon as the termination of the campaign was
announced at Monterey, the puissant Alvarado journeyed to
San Buenaventura, and thence in company with his Captain
Castro to El Pueblo de los Angelos, where he took posses
sion of the worthy old Don's house, and acted the Governor
upon the wines and brandies therein contained, with ail the
taste and suavity so well known to be his peculiar excellen
ces, and possessed himself of whatever else he listed of the
Don's personal estate. But— how unjust not to name it —
after having robbed his uncle, he gave in return a promise to
pay, which I was told still stands good against him, a sum
equal to his own estimate of the value he had taken.
From El Pueblo de los Angelos, Governor * Alvarado
proceeded to San Diego, the southernmost port of Alta Cali
fornia ; and received there and elsewhere the submission of
the inhabitants, till the whole country recognized the said
Juan Baptiste Alvarado, El Goubernador del Alta California.
Even the glorious old Don Carlos Antonio Carrillo is said to
have paid court to the young conqueror, and not altogether
unwillingly, after so much blood shed ill defence of his dig
nity and the high honors of his office, to have laid aside his
pretensions with much grace and apparent satisfaction ; thus
demonstrating that noble and rare principle which leads the
truly great man, — after the exercise of every energy, after
wading through seas of gore, after baring his bosom to the
knife of fate, after having met, defied, endured, every hazard,

298 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
every hardship, for the attainment of his just rights, — to prove
himself not only " par secundis," but " major adversis," by
seeking repose, and calling on the shades of forgetfulness to
fall around the memory of heroic exploits, which such a man
blushes to hear coupled with his name. So little need has
true worth of noise and praise. But I should do great injus
tice to the worthy Don, if I neglected to state his manner of
obtaining the commission of Governor of Upper California,
in support of which he struggled so manfully.
About two years after the Revolution which raised Alva
rado to power, the excellent old Don sent an account of that
event to his friend Sa Exeellentissimo, El Presidente Busta
mente, in which among other matters it was stated that, in
case Mexico would make an appointment of a Californian of
the Governorship of the country (suggesting at the same time
that he the worthy Don was at the service of the State,) — he,
the Don, and his amlgos would reconquer the country, and
return it to the allegiance of Mexico. The Don's brother, a
man of great patriotism — id est, Mexican patriotism, or the
most devoted disposition to take care of himself, — bore this
dispatch. In due time he returned with a commission — em
powering his brother Don to assume the Government of Alta
California. The only irregularity in the instrument which
arrested attention was the absence of the proper signa
tures and the Seal of State. But as the Don was called
El Goubernador in the body of the instrument, that irregu
larity was deemed by his friends of trifling importance. But
it was this that the wily Alvarado seized upon as a pretext
for not delivering up the helm of Government to( the most
excellent and' stately old Don, and allowing himself and his
partisans to be shot according to the law, for having rebelled
against La Republica Mexicana.
From the year 1838 to the year 1840, the time when the
author entered California, Alvarado continued to be the Gov
ernor of that lovely land. And during that period ho events
occurred worthy of being detailed.

' CHAPTER XVI
Geology of the Californias — Boundaries — Lower California — Moun
tains — Surface — Deserts — Valleys — Streams — Temperature — Pro
ductions—Exports — Pearl Fishery  Present condition of Lower
California. The Geology of the Californias. — The feature of the
Rocky Mountains and the regions lying west of them, most
interesting to the geologist, is found in the evidences of past
volcanic action, which are strown far and wide about the path
of the traveller wherever he goes. The main ranges, which
rise from twelve to twenty-seven thousand feet above the level
of the sea, are chiefly composed of primitive rock, covered with
eternal snows. Having passed these, the wayfarer westward
enters a region, parts of which are occupied by plains covered
with volcanic sands and debris — or piled with mountains of
fused rock and decomposing lava clothed with forests of
terebinthine trees, broken often by bold barren tracts of cliffs,
and overhung here and there by lofty pinnacles of extinct vol
canoes, towering in freezing sublimity, thousands of feet above
the line of perpetual frosts— great sentinels in the heavens —
clad in the shining raiments of everlasting snow. This is a
general description of the whole territory lying west of the
Rocky Mountains, and extending from Cape San Lucas to the
Arctic sea.
The peninsula of Lower California, extending from Cape
San Lucas to the Bay of Todos Santos, in Lat. 32° N., on the
Pacific, and to the mouth of. the Colorado, on the Gulf side,
is a pile of volcanic debris and scoriae. Much of the surface
is still heated by subterranean fires. No craters are in action.
But hot springs of water and bitumen, and frequent earth-
43

300 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. \
quakes, and the scorched face of the whole region, demonstrate
it to be a mere mass upheaved from the sea, and burned to
cinders. The range of mountains that comes up through Low
er California, runs on northwardly into Upper California, at
an average distance of sixty or seventy miles from the sea, till
it falls away into low hills south of the bay of San Francisco.
This, also, is a volcanic range ; though not so strongly marked
to that effect in the Upper as in the Lower Province.
Some portions of this range are lofty. That part lying
east and south-east of El Pueblo de los Angelos, is tipped
with perpetual snows. But the greater part of it presents a
base covered up to- more than half of the whole elevation
with pine and cedar forests ; the remaining height being com
posed of bare, dark, glistening rocks, lying in confused masses,
or turreted in the manner observed on the Black Hills, in the
Great Prairie Wilderness : — spires, towers and battlements
lifted up to heaven, among which the white feathery clouds
of beautiful days rest shining in the mellow sun.
The Snowy Mountain range is perhaps the boldest and
most peculiar of the Californian highlands. Its western ter
minus is Cape Mendocino, a bold snow-capped headland,
bending over the Pacific in 40° N. Latitude. Its western ter
minus is in the Wind River Mountains, Latitude 42° N., about
seven hundred miles from the sea. Its peculiarity consists in
what may be termed its confused geological character. Near
the sea its rocks are primitive, its strata regular. A hun
dred miles from the sea where the President's range crosses
it, everything is fused — burned ; and at the distance of seventy
miles northeastwardly from the Bay of San Francisco, a
spur comes off with a lofty peak, which pours out immense
quantities of lava, and shoots up a flame so broad and bright
as to be seen at sea, and to produce distinct shadows at eighty
miles' distance. Here is an extensive tract of this range which
has been burned, and whose strata have been torn from their
natural positions ; displaying an amalgamated mass of primi
tive rocks, ex loco, mingled with various descriptions of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIF »RNIAS. 301
volcanic remains. From this point eastward, it is a broken
irregular chain of peaks and rifted collateral ranges, and
spurs running off northwardly and southwardly, some of
which are primitive and others volcanic.
Another range of mountains which deserves notice in this
place, is that which bounds the valley of the San Joaquim on
the east. This is a wide and towering range. It is in fact a
continuation of the President's range, and partakes very
strongly of its volcanic character. That part of it which lies
eastwardly from the Bay of San Francisco, is very broad and
lofty. One of its peaks, Mount Jackson, as it is called, is the
highest in all the President's range. A mighty shaft of rocks
is that ! Mountains of great size are piled around it, but
they appear like molehills beside that veteran mount. Some
of these lesser ones are so high as to be covered with snow
most of the year. , But this vast peak towers over them all
several thousand feet, a glittering cone of ice. These moun
tains decrease in height as they advance towards the mouth
of the Colorado, where they terminate in low crags and sandy
hills. All over the Californias, the traveller finds evidences of
volcanic action. Far in the interior, among the deserts ; in
the streams ; in the heights ; in the plains ; everywhere are
manifestations of the fact, that the current of subterranean
fire which crossed the Pacific, throwing up that line of isl
ands lying on the south of the sea'of Kamschafka, and passed
down the continent upheaving the Oregon Territory, did also
bring up from the bed of the ocean the Californias ; and
among geological periods, I venture the opinion that this
great event occurred at quite a recent date.
Geography. — The Californias are bounded on the North by
the 42d parallel of Latitude ; on the East, by a line running
due north from the head waters of the Arkansas river, and by
the Anahuac and Taos mountains; on the South, by the river
Jila and the Gulf of California ; and on the West, by the
Pacific Ocean

302 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
A general idea of the surface will be given the reader if I
Say that the peninsula, or Lower California, which extends
from Cape San Lucas in N. Lat. 22° 48', to the Bay of Todos
Santos in Lat. 32° N., is a pile of barren volcanic mountains,
with very few streams, and still fewer spots of ground capable
of sustaining vegetation; and if I state that the country lying
north of this peninsula, called Upper California, is perhaps the
most beautiful and productive in the world ; and that the ter
ritory lying north and south of the Colorado of the West,
and within the boundaries just given to the Californias, is a
howling desolation. But as so general a description of a
country, that has never been described, will scarcely meet the
expectations of my readers, I shall proceed to particulars as
far as my space will allow.
Lower California.— The Gulf of California lies on the
east of the Southern Province. The Rio Colorado enters it
at its northern part. At the junction of these waters we will
commence our view of Lower California.
From the highlands near the mouth of this river, a wild
and somewhat interesting scene opens. In the east appears
a line of mountains of a dark hue, stretching down the coast
of the Gulf as far as the eye can reach. These heights are
generally destitute of trees ; but timber grows in some of the
ravines. The general aspect, however, is far from pleasing.
There is such a vastness of monotonous desolation ; so dry,
so blistered with volcanic fires ; so forbidding to the wants
of thirsting and hungering men, that one gladly turns his eye
upon the water, the Mar de Cbrtez, the Gulf of California.
The Colorado, two and a half miles in width, rushes into this
Gulf with great force, lashing as it goes the small islands
lying at its<mouth,-and for many leagues around the waters of
the Gulf are discolored ! by its turbulent flood* On the west
sweep away the mountains of Lower California. These also
are a thirsty mass of burned rocks, so dry that vegetation finds
no resting-place among them. But they lift themselves nobly
to the clouds, and look so venerable in their baldness, that

J

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 303
one fee's an ill-defined but absorbing interest in viewing them.
Man never treads their treeless heights — he finds among them
neither food nor drink ; nor will they ever resound with the
voices and tumults of human life.- Still, is there not in a
wilderness of barren mountains a vast idea of chilling un-
changeableness which inspires a feeling of awe and reve
rence ? The poor Indians thought, so. They peopled them
with gods, and trembled when the moon lighted them dimly
at night, and when the elements groaned among them. They
stand a vast assemblage -of red and brown dearth, extending
in a bold jagged -line broader and higher, onward and up
ward, till they fade away among the bright clouds and dew-
less skies of Lower Califoriiia : that field of trial for men who
would plant on the heart of the Indian the seeds of a holy
life ; the scenes of the labors, hopes and sufferings, of Padres
SalvA Tierra and Ugarte ; the burning-place of Padres Cor-
rando's and Tamaral's martyrdom ! We will describe that
country as it now exists.
That province of Lower California, extends from Cape San
Lucas to the Bay of Todos Santos, and varies from thirty to
one hundred and fifty miles in width, a superficial extent al
most equal to that of Great Britain ; and yet on account of
its barrenness, never will,, from the products of the soil, main
tain five hundred thousand people in a state of comfort, ordi
narily found in the civilized condition. This statement may
seem surprising to those who are acquainted with the geolo
gical fact that, though it is a volcanic country, the lava and
other volcanic matter is decomposing at the usual rate. But
surprise will cease when such persons are informed that every
few years tornadoes sweep over the country with such vio
lence, and bearing with them such floods of rain, that what
ever of soil has been in any manner previously formed, is
swept into the sea. So that even those little nooks among
the mountains, where the inhabitants from time to time make
their fields,' and task the vexed earth for a scanty subsistence,
are liabJe to be laid bare by the torrents. In case the soil

304 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
chance to be lodged in some other dell, before it reaci the
Ocean or the Gulf, and the people follow it to its new loca
tion, they find perhaps no water there and cannot eultivate it
Consequently they are often driven by dreadful want to some
other point in quest of sustenance, where they may not find it,
and perish among the parched highlands. ' , For the space of
twenty or thirty leagues from the Cape San Lucas the air is
rendered mild and kindly by the sea breezes, and the ground
in many parts being wet by little currents of water running
from the highlands, is very fruitful. From this section to
Loretto, Latitude 26? 16' N., the heat is excessive, the soil dry
and' barren, and the surface of the, country extremely craggy
and forbidding. From Loretto northward to Todos Santos,
the air is more temperate, the water in the mountains some
times freezes, and the soil is not so rugged and full of rocks,
but is barren and desolate as that around Loretto. The mean
range of temperature in the whole country in the summer
season is from 60° to 74° Fahrenheit. - The rains fall in
the winter months ; are very severe, and of short duration.
During the remainder of the year the air is dry and clear ;
and the sky more beautiful than the imagination can conceive.
The range of mountains occupying the whole interior of
this country, vary in height from one to five thousand feet
above the level of the sea. They are almost bare of all ver
dure, mere brown piles of barrenness, sprinkled here and there
with a cluster of briars, small shrubs, or dwarf trees. Among
the ridges are a few spots to which the sweeping rains have
spared a little soil. These, if watered by springs or streams,
are beautiful and productive. There are also a few places
near the coast which are well adapted to tillage and pastur
age. But the principal difficulty with this region, is one common
to all countries of volcanic origin, — a scarcity of water. The
porousness of the rocks allows it to pass under ground to the
sea. Consequently one finds few streams and springs in
Lower California. From the Cape San Lucas to the mouth of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 305
the Colorado, six hundred miles, there are only two streams
emptying into the Gulf. One of these is called San Josef del
Ca.bo. It passes through the plantations of the Mission bear
ing the same name, and discharges itself into the bay of San
Barnabas. The other is the Mulege, which waters the Mission
of Santa Rosalia, and enters the Gulf in Latitude 27° N. These
are not navigable. The streams on the ocean coast, also, are
few and small. Some of them are large enough to propel
light machinery, or irrigate considerable tracts of land, but
none of them are navigable. In the interior are, several large
springs, which send out abundant currents along the t rocky
beds of their upper courses ; but when they reach' the loose
sands and porous rocks of the lower country, they sink and
enter the sea through subterranean channels, A great misfor
tune it is too, that the lands which border those portions, of
these streams which run above the ground, consist of barren
rocks. Where springs, however, and arable land occur
together, immense fertility is the consequence. There is
some variety of climate on the coasts, which it may be well to
mention. On the Pacific shore the temperature is rendered
delightfully balmy by the sea breezes, and the humidity which
they bring along with them. Fahrenheit's thermometer ranges
on this coast, during the summer, between fifty-eight and sev
enty-one degrees. In the winter months, while the rains are
falling, it sinks as low as fifty degrees above zero. On the
Gulf coast there is a still greater variation. While at the
Cape, the mercury stands between sixty and seventy degrees;
near the head of the Gulf it is down to the freezing point.
These isolated facts, in regard to the great territory under
consideration, will give the reader as perfect an idea of the
surface and agricultural capacities of Lower California as will
be here needed. In fact, this country has already been pretty
clearly and fully described in my account of the Missionary
operations of Padres Salva Tierra and Ugarte.
The few fertile spots in Lower California were occupied at
an early day, and planted with maize, wheat, beans, peas,

306 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
and all manner of esculent roots. The European vine was
also introduced extensively, and yielded grapes of the finest
quality. From these grapes, wines were made which were
equal in excellence to those of the Canary Islands. The
orange, lemon, lime, citron, prune, plantain, pine-apple, and
other tropical fruits, were also planted, and yielded abundant
crops. These articles are still cultivated by the. present inhabit
ants. They also rear, as of old, horses, black cattle, mules,
goats, and a few hogs. But the gross amount of all these
products, in a country where there is so little fruitful land, is
very small ; and in fact the people, though not numerous, are
unable, on those barren shores, to supply themselves at all
times with the necessaries of life.
But, there is, in the construction of the Universe, a great
compensatory law, which, when one blessing is withheld,
grants another in its stead. So here, while the land is deso
late, the sea is stored with an incredible abundance and variety
of fish. Only a few of them can be named ; the halibut,
salmon, turbot, skate, pilchard, large oyster, thornback,
mackerel, barbel, bonitos, soles, lobsters, crabs, sardines, cod,
tunnies, anchovies, and pearl oysters. These fish are all of
the finest quality, and exceedingly numerous! In a word, the
waters of Lower California are so rich, that, although the land
be dreary and for the most part a leafless waste, the country
would be a valuable acquisition to any commercial nation.
The value of the pearl oyster alone would authorize us to
make this remark. There are immense beds of these in the
Gulf. In the language of the Naturalists this is a testaceous
fish of the genus mya, species margaritifera ; which being
translated into the language of common sense means, that the
pearl oyster is a kind of water animal, living between a pair
of shells like any other gentleman oyster. And this gentle
man they tell us is sometimes afflicted with disease at one end,
of himself; and having none of Siinds' Sarsaparilla where
withal to effect a cure, a little stony concretion of the carbon
ate of lime is collected, or to use words which are accustomed

The Mackerel— Page 306.

The Cod.— Page 306.

The Tunny. — Page 306.

The Turkey Buzzard. — Page 306.
44

li

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 307
to be understood by sensible people in contradistinction to the
learned, a small light-colored, bright and round bunch is
formed, about as large as a good healthy dew-drop of May,
which is called a pearl. ¦ The use of this article usually is to
ornament the necks of those whose brains are of deficient
growth, and the ears and heads of those who are born to
more titles than thoughts. ' The thing has no real value in
itself; but as vanity has rendered it a valuable means of
throwing into shadow these deficiencies of nature, commerce
has given it a place among her most valuable commodities.
These pearls of Lower California are considered of excellent i
water ; but their rather irregular figure somewhat reduces
their value. The manner of obtaining these pearls is not
without interest. The vessels employed in the fisheries are
from fifteen to thirty tons burthen. They are usually fitted out
by private individuals. The Armador or owner commands
them. Crews are shipped to work them, and from forty to
fifty Indians, called Busos, to dive for the oyster. A stock of
provisions and spirits, a small sum of money to advance the
people during the cruise, a limited supply of calaboose furni
ture, a sufficient number of hammocks to sleep in, and a
quantity of ballast, constitute nearly all the cargo outward
bound. Thus arranged they sail into the Gulf; and having
arrived at the oyster banks, cast anchor and commence busi
ness. The divers are first called to duty. They plunge to
the bottom in four or five fathom water, dig up with sharpen
ed ^sticks as many oysters as they are able, rise to the surface
and deposit them in sacks, hung to receive them at the ves
sel's side. And thus they continue to do until the sacks are
filled, or the hours allotted to this part of the labor are ended.
When the diving of the day is done, all come on beard
and place themselves in a circle around the Armador, who
divides what they have obtained, in the following mariner :
two oysters for himself, the same number for the Busos, or
divers, and one for the government.
This division having been concluded, they next proceed

308 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
without moving from their places, to open the oysters which
have fallen to the lot of the Armador. During this operation,
that dignitary has to watch the Busos with the.greatest scru
tiny, to prevent them from swallowing the pearls wiffi the
oysters ; a trick which they perform with so much dexterity,
as almost to defy detection, and by means of which they often
manage to secrete the most valuable pearls. The govern
ment portion is next opened with the same precautions, and
taken into possession by the Armador. And last of all the
Busos open theirs, and' sell them to the Armador in liquida
tion of debts incurred for their outfits, or of moneys advanced
during the voyage, They usually reserve a few to sell to
dealers on shore, who always accompany these expeditions
with spirituous liquors, chocolate, sugar, cigars, and other
articles of which these Indian divers are especially fond.
Since the Mexicans obtained their independence, another
mode of division has been adopted. Every time the Busos
come up, the largest oyster which he has obtained is taken by
the Armador and laid aside for the use of the Virgin Mary.
The rest are thrown in a pile ; and when the day's diving is
ended, eight oysters are laid out for the Armadors, eight for
the Busos, and two for the government.
In the year 1831, one vessel with seventy Busos, another
with fifty, and two with thirty each* and two boats with ten1
each, from the coast of Senora, engaged in this fishery. The
one brought in forty ounces of pearls valued at $6,500; ano.
ther twenty-one ounces, valued at $3,000 ; another twelve
ounces, valued at $2,000, and the two boats a proportionate
quantity. There were in the same season ten or twelve other
vessels, from other parts, employed in the trade ; which, if
equally successful, swelled the value of pearls taken in that
year to the sum of more than forty thousand dollars.
This pearl-fishery, indeed, is the principal souree of wealth
in Lower California. From the soil little can ever be derived ;
unless the deserts and mountains, like other volcanic districts
on the west coast of the continent, should prove to be stored

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 30&
with the precious metals. There is a high probability that this
may be found the case ; for a mine called San Antonio, near
La Paz, which has been wrought somewhat, is said to be rich.
In addition to the products of this mine and the pearls, there
is a limited export of dates, wines, grapes, soap, figs, mazcal,
spirits, salt from a lake on the island Del Carmine, and a
few goat and beeves' hides.
Since the landing of the excellent old Padre Salva Tierra,
with his six soldiers and . three Indians, at Loretto in the
year 1697, a great change has taken place in the inhabitants
of this territory. It was then peopled by about twenty thou
sand Indians, who passed whole days stretched upon their
bellies on the sand. And when pressed with hunger they
flew fo the chase or the sea, like wild beasts, merely to satisfy
the cravings of appetite, and then rolled themselves upon the
sand again till aroused to action by a similar cause.
These degraded beings the Jesuits brought into the Catholic
church, taught the arts of civilized life, and when nature fail
ed, buried them. The intercourse of these savages with the
soldiers, and with the few colonists and^ their negro slaves,
who from time to time settled there, produced a mixed race,
which, by the greater care taken cf their persons, and by the
relief from labor derived from the industry of the neophytes
at the Missions, have increased in numbers, while their brutal
and filthy Indian relatives, with better constitutions, have de
creased; so that the present population of Lower California is
almost entirely composed of mongrel breeds of Indians,
whites, and negroes. In 1836 they amounted to about four
thousand. But since then the, small-pox and another disease
which had swept away the Indians, has made some havoc also
among this mixed race. Loretto, the seat of government
formerly contained two thousand people, whose number is
now reduced to about two hundred and fifty.
La Paz, situated on the, bay of La Paz, farther south,
together with the mining village of San Antonio, contains
about two thousand descendants oi American and European

310 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
seamen, Spaniards, Creoles and Indians. The remainder of
the population is scattered over the country ; and all are liv
ing a lewd and half civilized life.
These mission establishments are now a sad sight to behold.
In the days of .Padres Salva Tierra and Ugarte, we have
regarded them as the comfortable abodes of savages, whom
those excellent men had raised from the filth, idleness and
misery of the lowest barbarism, to the cleanliness, industry and
happiness of a partially civilized mode of life. They w»re
built upon fertile spots, separated from each other by extensive
tracts of uninhabited wastes ; little green homes, where the
plough, the axe, the family hearth, and the altar of God, con
tributed to the comfort and dignity of human life, and so far
as the physical obstacles in the country and the stupid nature
of the Indians allowed, elevated the leading purposes of their
temporal existence, and implanted in their minds a new idea
of vast power ; the idea of their Maker ; the framer of Nature
and of themselves ;. which raised from the grave man's expec
tation of future being ; and threw over that new life of beloved
hope, the bow of His eternal promises. And for ever, yes,
alway, while the good revert to the past, for examples of
great devotion to the deeds of a holy benevolence, will they
point to the thirsty deserts of Lower California, and the crum
bling walls of the old missions, and speak the names of Salva
Tierra and Ugarte.
The government of Lower California, while administered
by these excellent men, was patriarchal in its general features,
and aimed at the happiness of the governed. At the expul
sion of the Jesuits from Spanisjj America, the Franciscans suc
ceeded to their places; but being unacquainted with the
character of the people, their good intentions towards them
were in a great degree thwarted by their incapacity to meet
the duties of their station. These were succeeded by the
Dominicans ; excellent men in their way ; but failing to
equal the great founders of a system of things which they
were called to carry out, in that broad and untiring be-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 311
nevolence which distinguished those remarkable men, they
have hung to the present day, like drones upon the honey-
cells of their predecessors' labors, till the walls around those
mission altars have tumbled about their heads, and the people
of their charge have become nearly extinct. There is indeed
much excuse for this conduct of the Dominicans, in the fact
that after the Mexican Republic had supplanted the Spanish
power in that country, a pack of political mendicants were
sent thither from Mexico, who were authorized by some of
the predatory statutes of that government, to control the acts
of the Padres, remove the neophytes from the jurisdiction of
their spiritual advisers^ and in their zeal for the public weal, to
rob the missions of their cattle, mules, and other property, for
their own individual benefit. But this is hardly an excuse for
their tame submission to such encroachments upon the rights
of the poor Indian. His own hand had opened the fields of
his own country ; his eye had been raised from the altar of
his own native hills to that God who succors the weak and
defenceless, and to that God and his truth he had been devot
ed by. martyrs; and these priests should have been immolated
rather than have lived to see their fair fabrics, which a holy
faith had raised among the children of the desert, and the
moral structures of heavenly love reared by the old Padres,
on that bloody waste of human nature, destroyed by the un
hallowed selfishness of such depraved men as were those
officers of the Mexican Republic. But so it was. The Mis
sions fell ; — and in their place naught is left but a howling
ruin. A small part, indeed, of the original number still
exist ; but the buildings even bf these are crumbling, and the
fields are crowded, with the columnar cactus, standing where
the Indian's bread stuffs were wont to grow — like sentinel
spirits lingering around the graves of the loved and lost A
sad sight indeed to behold are the old missions of Lower
California ! The wild goat bleats from their falling belfries ;
and the swallow builds his nest among their aisles.

CHAPTER XVII.
Rio Colorado and its Valley-Ruins-Rio Severe and Valley-An
old Trapper Erplorer-Rio Su Juan and Valley-Rio Jila and
Valley-A Legend-Timpanigos Lake and Valley-Timpanigos
Lake-Captain Young's Expedition-Death-Mary's River and
Vale. This river has two principal sources; the one among the
Wind River spur of the Rocky Mountains, in Latitude 43° N.,
which as it moves southwardly becomes a considerable stream
called Sheetskadee or Green River; the other among the
eastern range of the Rocky Mountains, in Latitude 40° N.,
which, running Westwardly, forms a stream still larger than
the Sheetskadee, which has been called Rio Grande, or the
Colorado of the West; a stream of dreadful remembrances, of
horrid events, over Which the narrator of Indian legends, as
well as the chronicler of the early explorers, shudders to take
a retrospect. Upper California.— River Colorado.— The water of this
river is clear among tneRocky Mountains, but as it approach
es the Gulf, it becomes much discolored by red sand and clay.
Hence its name— Colorado, a Spanish word meaning red.
My friend, Doctor Lyman, of Buffalo, who travelled from
Santa Fe, in New Mexico, by the way of the Colorado of the
West, to Upper California,. in the year 1841, has kindly fur
nished me with some of his observations, as well on that stream
as the adjacent territories and the Indians inhabiting them,
which I feel great pleasure in giving to the reader. The Doc
tor's route lay northwesterly , up the head waters of the Rio Bra
vo del Norte— over the dividing ridge between those waters and
the upper branches of the San Juan, and northwardly across
these to the Rio Colorado of the West— down the northern
bank of this river to the Californian Mountains— and through
these to El Pueblo de los Angelos, near the coast of the Pa-

SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. 313
cific An eventful journey— through an unexplored country
of untamed savages, which the Doctor's scientific attainments
and interesting style amply qualify him to detail to his coun
trymen in a manner that would forever connect his name with
the border literature of America. But to this task, I fear he
can never be persuaded.
My friend says that the elevation of the Sheetskadee Valley
above Santa Fe, is 3000 feet ; and that of the plain around
the junction of this stream and Grand River, is about 2500
feet. It is known from other sources that the valleys of
Grand and Sheetskadee are elevated 8000 feet above the level
of the ocean. So that we may take our point of departure
from the place where the Doctor struck the Colorado, and
gain a pretty clear idea of the inclination of that eastern por
tion of the Californias. As for example, the linear distance
from the mouth of the Sheetskadee to the outlet of the Colora
do into the Gulf of California, is about 700 miles. The Colo
rado then falls 8000 feet while running that distance ; and
the bordering country dips in the same ratio. The Great Salt
Lake, Timpanigos, also lies at an elevation of 8000 feet above
the sea ; and the western declination of the country from this
lake and the Sheetskadee, though somewhat broken by moun
tains, is still greater during the first 300 miles ; and the result
which we should expect, is in accordance with fact, viz. that
streams run off from the neighborhood of the Colorado, in a
northwesterly, and from that of the Great Salt Lake, in
a westerly, direction, forming lakes without any visible
outlet, or sinking in the sands of that desolate waste.
Doctor Lyman writes me the following graphic account of
these regions.
" The traveller journeying northward, after leaving Santa
Fe (Lat. 26° N.), passes, for the space of 300 miles, alternate
ranges of mountains, separated by valleys of greater* or less
width, some exceedingly fertile, and others very barren.. At
times, consequently, he finds abundance of fine grass and pure
water for his animals ; and at others so desolate and parched
45

314 TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS.
is the land, that he hse to make long days' journeys with
scarcely a blade Of food or a drop of water for their suste
nance. Between Santa Fe and Rio San Juan, one of the main
branches of the Colorado of the West, a distance of 150 miles,
the traveller and his animals are sure to fare well ; for most
of the mountain sides and valleys abound-in excellent pastur
age and pure ice-cold water, trickling down from the heights
where the melting snows feed the springs till late in the sum
mer. After crossing the San Juan, in about Lat. 38p N., and
approaching the valleys of the Sheetskadee and Grand — the
great mountain tributaries of the Colorado, — the country be
comes generally sterile, and broken in every direction by deep
ravines with perpendicular banks, opposing almost insur
mountable obstacles to the traveller's progress ; compelling
him to search many days before he can find a feasible passage
across." The worthy Doctor thus describes the travelling down the
banks of the Colorado : " The water in nearly every instance
after leaving the crossing of the Colorado in Latitude 38°N.,
down to the Californian Mountains, a distance of seven or
eight hundred miles, is either very brackish and slimy, or so
excessively saline, as to have in many instances a fatal effect
on animals and men. In some few instances, indeed, good
waters are found ; but like visits from the world above, they
are ' few and far between.' Sometimes, too, the traveller
crosses vast barren plains utterly destitute of water, and upon
which vegetation is so scarce that there will hardly be a
blade of grass to a square mile of surface ! Occasionally wild
sage (salvia officinalis) is met with, but almost destitute of
foliage. This, and the bare stems of other equally naked
bushes, constitute the only food of wayfaring animals on these
wastes. There are a few spots in this forsaken region where
nature' has attempted to chequer its desolation with green
ness. I found an occasional dry river bed, moistened only
by the spring rains and the melting snows on the far distant
mountains, which produced a few

SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. 3J5
species of the arundo bambos, and sand grass. Ponds of salt
water occasionally occur, around which there is a scanty
supply of coarse vegetation. Over these dreadful wastes-
scathed of God — is however everywhere found, a , scanty
supply of the wild squash — the cucumis colocyntkis, which
serves only to tantalize the perishing traveller with the
remembrance of fruitful fields and pleasant homes. In some
places this fruit is even abundant ; but the pulp when ripe is"
a powerful drastic medicine, and when green, furnishes a
poor apology for food to the starving emaciated wanderer. I
was informed that the Paiuches Indians eat it when in the
unripe state, which is probably true ; for I saw, at different
points, great numbers of the pods or shells scattered around
their deserted fires."
" In journeying down the Colorado one finds a few spots to
which travellers have given names. The wayfarer descends
from the mouth of Green River, or Sheetskadee, to a spot
called Santa Clara, where a little herbage and water are
found. Near this point the banks rise, and the river is buried
in deep and roaring chasms. The traveller ascends therefore
till he reaches another point called the Salt Mountain, and
thence descends to another place of encampment called las
Vegas, where there are about one hundred acres of salt grass.
There a desolate plain commences, which extends about one
hundred miles, partially covered with loose sand, piled into
ridges curiously waved over the general surface, and in the
ravines, whirled by the winds into a great variety of fantastic
forms. These ravines are very numerous and deep ; very
difficult to ascend and descend ; mere parched caverns, into
which the drifting sands are driven by the heated winds. On
all this plain there is no vegetation except a little salt grass
on the margins of a few stagnant pools of brackish and sul
phurous waters."
When Doctor Lyman passed this desert, the sands were
drifting hideously, and he was only guided in the right path
across, by the carcasses of the horses which had perished in

316 TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS.
previous attempts to pass it. And such appeared to be the
saline character of the soil, and so destitute of moisture was
the atmosphere, that the flesh of these carcasses, instead of
being decomposed, was dried like the mummies of Egypt !
From this sandy waste to the Californian Mountains, the soil
is so hard that horses and other animals leave no tracks
behind them. The waters here also are saline and sulphur
ous. Indeed, this valley of the Colorado of the West has no
equal on this continent for barrenness. With the exceptions
just named, it is a vast plateau of degraded rocks, almost
destitute of organic matter, with ravines dotted here and there
with bunches of wild sage, savine bushes, and stunted dwarf
oaks — a great burial-place of former fertility which can never
return. In evidence of this opinion, the Doctor mentions some
ruins which he discovered about four hundred miles up the
river, and a short distance from its northern bank. They
occupied an area in the form of a parallelogram, cut by streets
thirty or forty feet wide, running at right angles to each other.
The edifices were in a state of great decay. They had been
built of rough fragments of trap rock, united with a cernent
which had become loose and friable. The blocks of buildings
were generally crumbled down, so as to lie inclined towards
the streets on the outside of the walls, at an angle of 30° or
40° to the horizon, and six feet in height. They were
sparsely covered with the bushes of the wild sage. The long
side of the city lay east and west. In this direction it was
about one mile long. The width, north and south, was three
quarters of a mile. In the centre of the ruins is a mound of
fragments with a base of forty, and a height often feet.
This little city was probably overwhelmed by the action
of those volcanic fires which have melted, shaken, and
transformed the whole Pacific coast of the continent. That it
was a place for the habitations of men appears clear. Among
the ruins the Doctor found fragments of burned clay, vessels
of a gloiular form, some of which had a white ground color,
with raised black images of birds, and of bears birds and

SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. 317
other animals with human heads. The outside of these ves
sels was glazed — the inside of a "brick color, and unglazed.
There were four principal entrances to this city ; one in the
centre of each side.
These ruins stand in the midst of one of the most sterile
wastes on the Colorado. A small wet hollow near by fur
nishes, by digging, a little brackish water. The nearest fresh
water is thirty miles distant. Fifteen miles to the north is a
range of rocks, the highest points of which reach an elevation
of not more than fifteen feet. In the middle part of this range
is a deep excavation which has every appearance of an old
silver mine. The debris about it, and other strong indications,
seem to authorize the belief that it was formerly wrought for
that precious metal. By whom was it wrought 1 By whom
was that city inhabited 1 By what great convulsion of na
ture was it prostrated, and its gardens and grain fields changed
to a thirsty desert ? Three Timpanigos Utaws whom my
friend Lyman met could give no answers to these and the
like inquiries, and they had no legends in regard to the origin
of these ruins, or of others which they spoke of as existing -in
the north and west. Was not this the Cibola of the early
explorers ; the land visited by the Jesuits — filled with people
and wealth, and which the volcanic fires that even to this
day groan under the whole western coast of America have
seared into a homeless waste 1
Doctor Lyman suffered so many hardships and privations
while travelling down the Colorado, that he, as well as his
animals, barely lived to reach the green fields and pure waters
of the Californian Mountains. He found the country around
the mouth of the river as dry, as salt, as uninviting in every
respect, as any he had traversed. But striking off in a west
erly direction from a point about one day's journey from its
debouchure into the Californian Gulf, he arrived at a river
of excellent water called the Amajaves. The source of this
stream is in the marine range of Californian Mountains, im
mediately east of the Puebla de los Angelos, at a place called

318 TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS.
The Cajon; a peculiar break in those mountains through
which there is a safe and easy passage. This is a very sin
gular stream. It may be said to run southeastwardly about
two hundred miles, and empty into the Colorado. But on
all its length it does not run two miles without entirely dis
appearing in the sand. -So that it presents to the traveller a
long line of little rippling lakes, from two to two and a half
feet deep, at one time sunken among hard flinty hills or piles
of drifting sands, and at others gurgling through narrow vales
covered with grass, and fields and forests in which live the
deer, the black bear, the elk, the hare, and many a singing
bird. The Cajon, also, in which it rises, is a great curiosity. The
mountains seem to have been cleft asunder perpendicularly,
and the upright walls moved a short distance apart, opening
a dark winding way to their very heart, where a wider space
is found — so regularly square, with sides and angles so box
like, that it has been aptly called cajon — a box. From this
spot the passage winds again between the sides of the cleft
mountain, accompanied by another murmuring stream tending
westward, till it leads the wayfarer into the sweet plains of
the Californian sea-board ; that most delightful of all lands —
that paradise of the continent, if not. of the world. But
before describing this I must complete my account of the
desolate interior. Of this there remains to be described the
rivers Severe, San Juan, and Jila, and their valleys, the Great
Salt Lake, called by the Indians, Timpanigos,. and the desert
lying between it and the Californian Mountains.
About four hundred and fifty miles from the mouth of the
Colorado, and a short distance north of that stream, a river
arises, which, on account of its rough character, the Mexican
Spaniards have named Rio Severe — Severe River. Its
source is among a small cluster of mountains, where it pre
sents the usual beautiful phenomena of rivulets gathering
from different quarters — uniting — increasing — tumbling and
roaring, till it reaches the plain, when it sinks into chasms or

SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. 319
kenyons, of basalt and trap rocks, and dashes on terribly over
fallen precipices for about eighty miles, where it loses itself
in the sand. This river was explored by an American trap
per, several years ago, under the following circumstances.
He had been hunting beaver for some time among the moun
tains iu which the river rises, with considerable success,
and without seeing any Indians to disturb his lonely tranquil
lity. One night, however,- when the season was far advanc
ed, a party of the Arapahoes, which had been watching his
movements unseen by him, stole all his traps. Thus situated,
without the means of continuing his hunt, and being two hun
dred miles from any trading post where he could obtain a
supply, he determined to build a canoe and descend the Rio
Severe, in the hope that it might bear him down to the habi
table parts of California. He, therefore, addressed himself to
this task with great perseverance, completed his bark, and
launched himself upon the angry stream, with life pledged to
his undertaking, and that daring expectation so peculiar to
the " mountain men," to light his way among the dark and
brawling caverns through which his frail and perilous craft
was to bear him. Seven days he passed in floating down this
stream. Most of its course he found walled-in by lofty per
pendicular cliffs, rising several hundred feet high, dark and
shining, and making palpable his imprisonment within the
barriers of endless solitude. At intervals he found cataracts,
down which he passed his boat by means of lines, and then
with great labor and hazard, clambered up and down the pre
cipices till he reached the waters below. On these rapids
the water was from two to three feet deep, and a hundred
yards in width. In the placid sections, the stream was often
thirty and forty feet in depth, and so transparent, that the
pebbly bottom and the fish swimming near it, were seen, when
the sun shone, as distinctly as the like appear in the suppos
ed peerless waters of Lake George. As this man drew near
the close of his fifth day's journeying, the chasms began to
disappear, and the country to open into rolling and drifting

320 TkAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS.
plains of sand, interspersed with tracts of dark-eolored hard-
pan. About the middle of the seventh day, he came to the
sands in which the river was swallowed up, and hauling his
shattered boat on shore, explored the country northwest, for
the reappearance of the stream. But to no purpose. A leaf
less dry desert spread away in all directions, destitute of every
indication of animal life, breathless and noiseless, a great
Edora, in which every vital function was suspended, and
where the drifting sands and the hot howling winds warned
him that he must perish if he persisted. He therefore left his
faithful old boat and made his way back to the mountains,
where he lost his traps, and thence travelled to Robidoux' fort,
on the upper waters of the San Juan. He subsisted on snails
and lizards during his journey ; and when he arrived, was
reduced to a skeleton, with barely strength enough to creep
into that solitary fortress. It is needless to add that he was
most kindly received by the hospitable owner, for who does
not know that from the Arctic seas to the southernmost limit
of the furrtraders' habitations, the wayworn stranger .finds a
home and a brother at any of their posts? These iron men
of the wilderness, like those who combat the waves and the
winds of the seas, never fail to feel a bond of holy brother
hood for those who have met and overcome the same difficul
ties. The old trapper is forgotten ; but his exploration of
Rio Severe with all its attendant dangers, undertaken and
accomplished alone, far in the deserts, hundreds of miles from
the voice of civilized man, in a frail canoe, liable to be swal
lowed up by the torrent, yet daring to float onward down a
stream of cataracts, whose existence became known to him
only as he approached their brink and heard their roar, was
a noble deed of perseverance and courage, which will ever be
remembered by those who shall be interested in the history of
that wild part of our continent.
The Rio San Juan is a fine stream of mountain waters,
which rises in the Anahuac ridge, and, running in a west-
wardly direction, empties itself into the Colorado about three

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 321
hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. The valleys on its
upper waters have been described in my friend Doctor Ly
man's account of his journey across them given on preceding
pages. And it only remains for me here to say that the val
leys of this stream below those portions seen by the Doctor
are mostly barren— broken by mountains and deep ravines;
in a word, generally resembling the lower portion of the vale
of the Colorado, in hideous desolation. There are indeed
some fruitful tracts of land near the banks and along the
brows of the neighboring highlands, which produce a mode
rate share of vegetation. In the rainy season, large tracts of
country also bordering on the middle part of its course are
pretty well clothed with grass. But when the dry season sets
in, the country is parched to a heap of red dust; every plant,
except trees, the different species of the cactus or prickly
pear, and a few shrubs, is withered, and a brown, dying as
pect, is presented by the valley of the San Juan. This will
ever be a desert, till those vast subterranean fires which
scorched it, and those dry winds which scorch it still, shall
cease to act, and the dews of night deign to fall, and the
clouds distil upon it their rains at proper seasons.
The River Jila forms the southeastern boundary of the Cali
fornias. It rises among the mountains, west of Santa Fe, in
Latitude 36^ north, and running westwardly a distance of about
five hundred miles, falls into the Colorado about sixty miles
from the Californian Gulf. It is a rapid rushing stream of
excellent water. Its banks, like those of the Colorado, in a
great degree, are composed of basalt and trap-rock risino- per
pendicularly much in the manner of the Palisades on the
Hudson. The valleys of the upper branches of this stream
are comparatively rich and beautiful. The lofty mountains
among which it rises, the higher peaks of which are covered
with snow throughout the year, the bold cliffs which at irre
gular intervals burst up from the plains, the conical hills of
rich earth clad with forests, the grass fields covered with wild
animals and Indian lodges? present a panoramic view of the

323 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Jila and its neighboring lands, which invites us to expect
hereafter to see them inhabited by a somewhat dense and
thriving population.
The past history of this valley well delineated would fur
nish a tale of great interest. This was a part of the field in
which the good Padre Kino administered to the savages the
wholesome truths of Christ's Redemption. Who shall ever
learn, till the great, scroll of the past is opened by our Maker,
what he endured, and what his joy was to suffer thus for
others ! And now that the walls of his missions lie crum
bling into dust on the banks of the Jila, and the Indian has
returned to his wild estate, who shall be able to know how
many sorrows he alleviated, how many pleasures he height
ened, and what well-springs of future events his labors have
opened, which shall enrich and gladden the hearts that shall
beat there in coming time T Peace to the good man's soul !
His memory will never be forgotten by those who love great
and good men, devoted to deeds of righteousness. This val
ley was also one of the stopping-places of the Montezuma or
Village Indians, during their southward movements from
Behring's Straits to the city of Mexico and its vicinity. And
here, it is said, the following remarkable prophecy was de
clared by one of their old seers. " The adorable Sun says
that we shall wander" (a certain number of years) " and build
cities, and see them destroyed, until we arrive in a great val
ley surrounded by proud and lofty mountains, in which shall
be fertility, great beauty of growing things, and broad lakes
of clear sweet waters. From one of these lakes an eajrle
shall rise on his strong wings towards the God whom we
worship, with a serpent's neck in his beak and his lower part
in his claw." This was to be the sign that they should wan
der no farther, should build a city among the Lakes, should
live there prosperously a certain number of years, at the
end of which a people whiter than themselves should come
and conquer them, and that they should never afterward be
enabled to obtain their independence. Believing in this pro-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 323
phecy, they saw their towns on the Jila tumble into ruitis,
and travelled southward, building others, and leaving them,
until they arrived in the charming valley of Mexico, where
they found the lakes, and mountains, and fertility— saw the
eagle and the serpent, founded the city, and at the precise
time indicated by their prophet were conquered by the Spa
niards. Poor Indians ! Too true was the augury. You now
believe that perpetual subserviency is the lot assigned you by
the decrees of Heaven, and when you pray before the altar of
the true God, you still believe that your ancient sage spoke
unwittingly the ordinance of the Most High. Break your
chains ! Pour out again the heart's blood of the Children of
the Sun, as you did when Montezuma led out your hosts to
the battles of freedom ! Gird on the armor of human rights,
and drive from your hearths the tyrants that call you free,
and scourge you to the work of slaves ! But let us return to
our geography of the Californias.
The Timpanigos or Utaw Lake, sometimes erroneously
called Lake Bonneville, and other names which writers adopt
in order to pay a compliment to persons who never saw it, is
the largest sheet Of salt water in America, which has no ap
parent communication with the sea. Its length and breadth,
and the quality of its waters, are fully described in my work
of " Travels in the Great Western Prairies, &c," to which I
would refer the. reader for some interesting particulars in re
gard to it. I will merely add in this place, that it lies between
Lat. 40° and 43° N., and Long. 36° and 37° W. from Wash
ington. On the east, southeast, and southern sides of this
lake there are clusters rf mountains Of considerable height,
partially covered with trees, and the large island in the same
is said to be inhabited.
The Timpanigos Desert is the largest in North America
It extends north and south from the Snowy Mountain range,
in Latitude 40° N, to the Colorado, and east and west from
Lake Timpanigos, to the mountains which form the eastern
boundary of the valley of the San Joaquim ; between four

324 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC,
and five hundred miles square, of sandy and hartlpan waste .
Little is known of the central parts of this desert. The old
trapper who explored Sevfire River, saw a part of it. All its
borders have been traversed more or less. The Indians^ how
ever, give accounts of its whole surface. They say that during
their ancient wars, unsuccessful parties were driven into its
depths and perished for want of water and food, and that
those who pursued them often met the same fate. Their le
gends and their own knowledge lead them to affirm that it is
one entire desolation, with an occasional spot of green herbs
growing by pools of salt and bitter waters.
Captain Young, whom I met in Oregon, made an attempt to
cross from Lake Timpanigos to Upper California. His
supposition was, that by travelling eastward, he should strike
the Severe River at some point where it rose from the sands,
and following its course, should be led to the bay of San Fran
cisco. He therefore loaded twenty mules with dried grass at
the mountains south of the lake, and with twenty men, and
a scanty supply of dried meat, commenced his journey on foot
over four hundred miles of desert ! The sequel of this under
taking of the gallant old beaver trader, was, that hiring
travelled until his animals had exhausted their supply of fod
der, and had all died, he cut food from their carcasses for
himself and men, and commenced his return to the lake. On
their backward way five of his men perished. The captain
and the remainder reached the lake in a wretched condition.
This was the last attempt to explore this awful waste. And
long will it be, ere man can know the silent gloom and hor
rors of its dreadful depths.
On the northwest side of this Desert is a partially fruitful
region, called the Vale of Mary's River. This stream has its
source in the Snowy Mountains, about three hundred miles
from the Pacific Ocean, and, running southwestwardly about
one hundred and sixty miles, empties into its own lake This
lake is about sixty miles in length, N. and S , ard about
thirty in breadth. It has received so much sediment from the

The Haven.— P. 325

The Pelican. — P. 325.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 325
surrounding highlands that it is chiefly filled with mud, form
ing a series of swamps, covered with hassocks, and of lakes
with muddy bottoms.
This whole valley is quite unpropitious to agriculture
The soil appears to be sufficiently rich for such purposes, but
the high mountains toward the sea arrest the clouds as they
come up from the southwest during the season of rain, and
thus prevent the deposit of sufficient moisture to sustain much
vegetation. There are, however, some pretty groves of aspen
and pine to be found along the stream and in the hills, among
which live a few red deer and elk. The stream itself is
stocked with crawfish, chub, and trout ; and on its surface
swim countless flocks of ducks, brant, and geese, with an oc
casional pelican. On the hill tops may be seen the eagle, the
magpie, the buzzard, the raven, and the crow. A few fertile
spots upon the banks are peopled by a portion of the Paiuches
or Root Diggers; a filthy tribe, the prey of idleness and ver
min. This valley contains large tracts of wild grass, which
will be valuable in coming years to those who shall travel
with caravans from San .^Francisco to the States. But the
valley of Mary's River can never become an agricultural dis
trict. It may be occupied by a small community of pastoral
people, who shall ensconce themselves among the surround
ing mountains, and lead out flocks and herds to feed on the
wild herbage. Its chief value, however, will be derived from
its being on the best route between the States and the Pacific
Ocean

47

CHAPTER XVIII.
Rio San Joaquim and Valley. — Rio Sacramento and Valley.
Rio San Joaquim. — The most interesting portion of Upper
California in many respects, is the upper or northern, 'em
bracing the Bay of San Francisco, its tributaries, the Sacra
mento, San Joaquim, and Jesus Maria rivers, and the country
bordering on these waters.
The Rio San Joaquim rises in a lake called Buenavista,
situated in Latitude 36° N., and about three hundred miles
northwest of the mouth of the Colorado ; and running in a
northwesterly course nearly six hundred miles, falls into tide
waters at the eastern extremity of the Bay of San Francisco.
This stream has a deep and tranquil current. Its waters are
transparent and well stocked with salmon and other fish. It
is navigable for small steamboats, about two hundred and
fifty miles. A high range of mountains on the northeast, at
an average distance of forty miles from the river, bounds its
valley in that direction : and a range of hills, rather low, in
the north, but becoming lofty in the south, bounds it on the
•west, forming a prairie vale six hundred miles in length ;
nowhere less than forty, and often more than one hundred,
miles in width. This vast plain extends indeed with little
interruption, from the Bay of San Francisco to the Colorado,
gradually growing wider and wider, and more uneven in its
surface, till it reaches that river. A space sufficient for an
empire ! A very large proportion of its surface is open prai
rie, covered with grasses and a species of wild oats. But it is
so diversified by lines of trees skirting the streams, by wooded
spots, standing out like islands on the green plain, by arms
of timber stretching far down from the mountain sides, and

The Elk.— P. 327.

The Deer.— P. 327.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 327
by extensive circular groves, connected with larger forests by
a thin fringe of trees — that the valley presents the appearance
of a vast series of plains of every conceivable area and shape,
from the little wood-bound plantation, to the township, the coun-
' ty, and the state. Over this immense plain rove innumerable
bands of wild horses, mules, elk, deer, grisly bears and other
animals. The portion of the valley within twenty miles of the
river is wholly uninhabited. The Indians do not feel disposed
to live there ; and the whites have plenty of room on the coast.
There are large tracts of excellent tillage lands on the banks
of the San Joaquim, and in the valleys of several beautiful
tributaries coming into it from the eastern mountains ; particu
larly in that of the Merced. But, generally, the valley of the
San Joaquim will be found unsuitable for cultivation. Its soil is
manifestly of volcanic formation, and filled with elements
unfriendly to vegetation. On many extensive tracts the mu
riate of soda covers the ground like frost, and destroys, with
equal certainty, every green thing ; while other tracts, larger
still, abound in asphaltum, which renders the soil too compact
for tillage. These peculiarities, however, attach only to the
plains. The uneven lands of the great valley, and of the
smaller ones of the tributaries, and, indeed, all the swells,
hills, and vales, that lie about the two ranges which bound
the valley on the east and west, are sufficiently freed from
these destructive ingredients by the wintry rains which wash
them down to the plains below. The face of the country
among these highlands is very beautiful, the soil rich and
heavily timbered ; and above them rise the mountains bearing
on their sides forests of red cedar trees, from one to twelve feet
in diameter and of proportional height. These grow to the
northward of the Latitude of San Antonio. Thence south
ward flourishes a species of white pine, of larger girth, loftier,
and of finer grain, than can be found in the States. But of
the central and flat portions of the valley I cannot speak so
well. It contains indeed every variety of soil — as tracts' of
loose sand, hard-pan, gravel, rich loam, and ponds of salt,

328 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
bitter, and fresh water. Most of the lakes, however, belong
to the latter class ; and the larger part of the soil furnishes
pasturage. There are very many swamps or marshes here
filled with tules, a large rush, ten or twelve feet high, and
from one to two inches in diameter, having . a bulbous and
branched root, eight or ten inches long, and six or eight in
diameter. Willows, bushes, and a few shrubs of different
species, grow over the plains. The cotton- wood is the only
large tree found in the vicinity of the river.
The climate of this valley is its greatest misfortune. The
wet season extends from November to March — five months of
the year. During this period it rains without cessation for
many days and even weeks, and the low country being very
flat, becomes a vast assemblage of lakes. In tjie month of
April the dry season begins, and save the heavy dews, there
is nothing to moisten the earth for seven long, burning months.
Mr. Kelly, an American gentleman, of great intelligence and
enterprise, who travelled over this country at an early day,
remarks, that " in crossing the prairies in Latitude 38° SO ,
N., during the month of August, I found that for several suc
cessive days the mercury ranged at 110° (Fahrenheit), in the
shade, and sealing-wax, deposited in one of my boxes, was
converted into an almost semi-fluid state." This intense heat
poured down so many months upon the submerged prairies,
evaporates the water as the time advances, and converts the
lakes formed in the wet season into stagnant pools of putrid
water, which send out most pestilential exhalations, convert
ing this immense valley into a field of death.
But this evil can be remedied. The San Joaquim lies so low
as to allow these lakes to be drained into it. When therefore
the country shall be properly ditched, the waters will not only
flow off, but will bear with them much of those destructive
salts which are now deposited upon the soil. And thus, I be
lieve, the valley of the San Joaquim will become the abode of
a dense population, the products of whose industry will float

The Wild Horse.— P. 329

7%e Antelope.— P. 339.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 329
down the placid current of that river, to the great commercial
marts of that and other lands.
This valley is now the great hunting ground of the Califor
nians. Vast herds of wild horses and elk are met with in all
parts of it. The latter animal, the noble elk, is hunted by the
Spaniards for his hide andv tallow. These people go out in
large companies, with fleet horses, and lasso them as they do
the bullocks near the coast. The deer. also, and antelope, are
found here in great numbers ; and are killed for the same pur
pose. The, grisly bear inhabits the mountain sides and upper
vales. These are so numerous, fat and large, that a. common-
sized merchant ship might be laden with oil from the hunt of
a single season.
On the western side of the mouth of the San Joaquim, there
is a vast tract of marshy land, and some hundreds of low isl
ands in the Upper Bay, which are saturated by the tides. The
usual ebb and flow at this place is about four feet ; conse
quently this low surface is enriched every year by the sedi
ment of the vernal freshets, and yields an immense growth of
rushes. These grounds would probably make the best rice
lipids in North America. The water of the tides is either en
tirely fresh or very slightly brackish : it may easily be let in
upon the field at flood, and drawn off at ebb. These Tulares,
as the Californians call them, those thousand isles and those
great, rush wastes, will, it is believed, be the only rice-fields
of any value on the Pacific coast of the continent. A noble
and .yaluable vale is that of the San Joaquim ; six hundred
miles of prairies covered with grass and wild oats, cut by
streams, shaded with lofty forests ! Prairies, some ten, some
twenty, others one hundred miles in extent, overhung by jut
ting promontories, crowned with gigantic forests, the wild
grains, grasses, cattle, horses, leaping deer, the grisly bear
and the stately elk, tossing his antlers to the breezes, are
elements of its present state. And we may expect when the
ox treads the furrow, and the axe, and the flail, awaken their
music on the plains, that the arable portions will be reclaimed
48

330 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
and rendered fruitful, while the prairies will gh e sustenance
to immense herds of domestic animals.
Rio Sacramento. — The Rio Sacramento is much larger
than the San Joaquim, and its valley contains a much greater
quantity of fertile land. The mouth of this river is a little
north of that of the San Joaquim. Indeed these two streams
mingle their waters around a considerable island which lies
before the mouth of each. They both enter the eastern ex
tremity of the Bay of San Francisco, about seventy miles
from the Pacific. It is two days' hard rowing from the mputh
of this river to the junction of its two principal branches,
called " the forks." At the mouth the soil is peaty, and over
flowed by the spring tides. As you advance higher, where
the tide has no influence, the soil becomes substantial, pro
ducing roses, arbutus, and other shrubs, most luxuriantly, as
well as the wild oats and rye. These grains, resowing them
selves from year to year, produce perpetual food for the wild
animals and Indians. These plains are burned over every
year by the Indians ; and the consequence is, that the young
trees, which would otherwise have grown into forests, are
destroyed, and the large trees often killed. Nevertheless, the
oak, the plane tree, of immense size, the ash, of an excellent
quality, covered with the wild grape vines, fringe the stream
everywhere, and divide the country into beautiful glades and
savannas, which, when the leaves are fading, when the grape
hangs in the greatest profusion on the limbs, and the deep
red flowers of autumn dot the grassy fields, and birds sing
their melancholy hymns to the dying year, give the finest
picture that the mind can conceive, of a beautiful wilderness.
The water of the Sacramento is very pure. Its banks from
the mouth to the forks are entirely alluvial, a deposit of sand
and clay. The bottom varies from a very loose mud and
quicksand to a stiff red clay.
The forks lie in Lat. 38° 46' 47" N., and Long. 0° 47' 31
East of Yerba Buena, near the entrance of the Bay of San Fran
cisco. The stream is navigable for small craft to the forks in

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 33 1
the dry season; in the rainy season and during the early part
of the summer, steam vessels of three hundred tons measure
ment can ascend its eastern branch several hundred miles
farther. It is difficult to convey by means of words the exceeding
beauty and excellence of this portion of the valley of the
Sacramento. To one who has seen it all attempts to do so
must appear tame and uninteresting. I may say that the
linear distance from the mouth to the forks is about sixty
miles, and that the river in making that progress meanders
one hundred and fifty ; that for the most part of this distance,
within the verge of the valley, grows a belt of oak trees,
about three hundred yards wide, crowded with flowering vines
and wild fruits, and interspersed with the lofty plane and
other beautiful trees, variegating the scene ; that beyond this
belt, on either side of the river, stand clumps of forests over the
endless seas of grass that reach away to the distant moun
tains; and that there are many mounds of earth on these
great savannas built unknown,ages ago by the Indians, from
which to gaze over these surpassing regions, and to view in
safety the rush of the spring-floods covering the country far
and near. And should I continue the attempt to lead the
reader on, despite the certainty that he will not gain thereby
the conception of it which I desire to convey to him, I
might state that it is an open champaign country, cut on the
east side of the river by numerous beautiful tributaries skirted
with timber, and on the west dotted and striped with groves and
lakes, and that this is one of the richest grazing and agricul
tural districts of the Californias. During the rainy season, the
river rises from eighteen to twenty-four feet, and overflowing
immense tracts of prairies, produces a succession of beautiful
lakes, through which its floods rush towards the Gulf. From
the upper country are thus brought down great quantities of
rich loam, which are deposited upon the lower plains, rendering
them as productive and beautiful as the banks of the Nile.
From ten to thirty miles dist?->ce from the river, the land

332 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
begins to rise rapidly; the open vales creep np into the
heights among brooks and forests, till lost in the wilderness
of white, red, and yellow pine, and live and white oak, whose
gigantic trunks stud the mountains to the regions of perpetual
frost. These branches of the Sacramento are strong dashing
mountain streams. The eastern one rises among the Sierras
Nevadas, or snowy mountain range, about three hundred miles
east of Cape Mendocino : and has a southwesterly tortuous
course of nearly seven hundred miles to the forks. This is
the largest branch of the Sacramento. It is navigable for
small craft, as before observed, several hundred miles during the
wet season, and will be very useful in floating down the val
uable timber of its vales, and of the mountain sides, to less
woody regions around the bay. A beautiful, chain of open
plains, with a rich soil, watered by numerous streams and
rivulets, and skirted by the finest forests, extends the distance
of seventy or eighty miles up this branch. At tbis point, in
Latitude 39° 35' N., are the first rapids. Here the traveller
to and from Oregon, fords the river in the dry season. The
stream is here about one hundred and twenty yards wide, with
four feet of water in the channel, and a swift current. In the
winter and spring the depth of water at this ford is ten or fif
teen feet.
At this place commences the southerly slope of the Snowy
Mountains ; and the whole aspect and character of the country
becomes still more beautiful and valuable. The soil on the
hills is admirably adapted to the growth of forest tre,es ; and
the prairies wind among the wooded elevations and along the
banks of delightful streams, clothed with the richest arid most
varied abundance of vegetable productions, crowned with
countless blossoms, and sending out on the air the most grate
ful perfumes. And these plains a«l wooded hills reach to the
Snowy Mountains, where in Latitude 40° there is an easy
passage to the valley of Smith River. This portion of these

TRAVELS IN T HE CALIFORN AS. 333
mountains, lying on the track of our description, deserves espe
cial notice.
A spur of rugged hills puts off here from it, and runs down
southwardly between these principal branches of the Sacra
mento to its forks. These heights are manifestly of volcanic
origin ; and Mr. Kelly suggests " that as they abound in
basaltic and vitrified stones, scoriae, &c, they be called the
volcanic range." Along their base stretches a beautiful
chain of prairies for seventy or eighty miles, watered by nume
rous rivulets. In this volcanic ridge I found a stratum of earth
which the Mexicans call tepetate, and which forms a cement,
when covered by water, or buried so far below the earth as
to retain moisture. It is so soft as to be easily penetrated by
an iron bar; but it becomes as solid and impenetrable as a
rock, on being exposed to the sun or wind. The general as
pect of this range is rude and black. The minor hills are
covered with dark-colored iron stones of all shapes, with
sharp edges resembling clinkers in the arches of a brick-kiln;
and with reddish clay and gravel, appearing like pulverised
brick. It is the work of volcanic fires, and may properly bear
the name which our worthy countryman has given it.
The western main branch of the Sacramento is nearly equal
in size to the eastern. It discharges nearly as much water,
but gathers it from less space. It rises among a lofty cluster
of the Snowy Mountains about thirty miles from the sea, and
running in a south by easterly direction about two hundred
miles, meets the other branch at the forks, with a generous
flood of beautiful waters. The tributaries of this are not so
large or numerous as those of the eastern branch ; and the
same may be said of the prairies that border it ; but they are
quite as charming. They stretch along by the rushing waters
among the heights, loaded with evergreen forests, like fairy
paths of olden tales ; rich, rich, glorious to behold ; beauty
reposing in the lap of the giant mountains ; to whom the
sounding streams give music ; to whom the mountain dews
give jewels, and the wild flowers incense. Were I to be ex-

334 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
iled from human kind — and cast off from the sight of woman
wife and child, — 'and deprived of the deep pulsations of joy
which cluster around the holy altar of home, that old Saxon
citadel of the virtues, I would pray for a cave in these
heights and among these streamy vales.
The timber trees on this part of the southern slope, as far
northward as 40°, are worthy of notice. The white pine is
very abundant and of a large growth. Several kinds of oak are
also plentiful, toe most common of which is the encina blanca,
white oak. Its average height is forty feet — its trunk six or
eight feet in girth, with a profusion of branches, which grow
together with the compactness of a hedge, and in perfect
symmetry of form, like the rounded tops of an apple orchard.
The live oak — quercus virens — is very abundant, and grows
only on the highlands. Its diameter is usually from three to
four feet; its altitude sixty or seventy. This timber is equal
to any of the kind in the world in solidity, strength and dura
bility. But the noblest specimen of this tree found in the territory
of the Sacramento, is the white oak proper, the quercus nava-
lis. It grows on the river banks and the low hills of the prai
ries. A fine tree it is ; not only on account of its excellent
qualities as timber ; but for its lordly trunk, which one might
almost say preserved an uniform diameter, its whole length.
And the actual fact is, that it not unfrequently attains a girth
of fifteen feet, at ten or fifteen feet from the root, and the
branches possess corresponding dimensions, and extend a
prodigious distance horizontally from the stem.*
•Kelly

CHAPTER XIX.
Jesus Maria River and Valley — Sierra Nevadas — Clamel River and
Valley — The Coast Belt — Climate of the Californias — Agricultural
Capabilities — Condition and Wealth of the Californias.
The Jesus Maria River is a small stream which rises at
the distance of twenty miles from the Ocean, among that part
of the Snowy Mountains immediately southwest of Cape
Mendocino. Its head-springs are among the perpetual snows
of those highlands ; and flowing about three hundred miles,
over precipices- and through prairies, it falls into the north
west part of the Bay San Francisco. This stream, in its
upper course, runs among barren rocks till its rivulets gather
into a current of some magnitude, when it enters a forest
region of pines, cedars, and other terebinthine trees, and lower
down is bordered by oaks of various species, chestnut, hickory,
walnut, oak, and plane trees.
This region, embracing the wide tract between the Sacra
mento valley and the sea, and between the Bay San Fran
cisco and the Snowy Mountains, is not less desirable than the
country on the Sacramento. It is, however, very different
Instead of six or seven hundred miles of continuous plains and
forests, with mighty streams, coursing down to a common
outlet, it is a country of hills and plains, rising one above
another northwardly, from the sweet prairies at the Bay to
the bare and lofty mountains in Latitude 40° N. The portion
in the vicinity of the Bay, forty miles square, is chiefly
prairie, broken by lines of forest and woody ridges ; the next
forty miles northward, and of a like width, consists princi
pally of extensive plains covered with various kinds of timber
and high precipitous hills, clad with forests of white pines,
whose trunks vary from nine to fifty feet in circumference,
and from one to nearly three hundred feet in height, hanging

336 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
over little flowering prairies, among the groves on the low
lands; noble columns of nature's architecture, supporting
cone-formed capitals of growing, living green ! A land of
the wildest enchantment ! The hooting owl and the cuckoo
are there at midnight, and the little birds twitter to the bab
bling rivulets of the vales. Far reaching away to the north
are piled the naked cold summits of the Snowy ridge. This
is a vast slope of excellent land, which will, when subdued,
equal any other in the world. The great Bay of San Fran
cisco on the south, and the Bay of Bodega and the Ocean on
the west, give it a position as a farming and commercial dis
trict which is scarcely surpassed by the valley of the Clamet,
or of the San Joaquim and Sacramento,
Stretching across the north of these splendid regions are the
Snowy Mountains. This range of highlands forms a natural
boundary between the Californias and Oregon. But the
ignorance of our negotiators with Spain, or their criminal
neglect of duty, gave us the parallel of 42° N., instead of this
noble barrier of craggy ice and snow. Consequently the
Californias extend beyond these mountains, and embrace the
valley which lies between the Snowy range and a spur of the
President's range, which puts out westward from Mount J. Q.
Adams, in Latitude 42° 10'. The average height of these
hills is about 2700 feet above the sea. This vale is about
fifty miles wide and one hundred in length. The Clamet
river waters it. This stream has two principal sources ; the
one among the snows of Mount Monroe, in Latitude 43° 20'
and about one hundred miles from the sea ; the other in a
beautiful mountain-lake, with a surface of about two hundred
square miles, lying further south. Both these branches are
furious mountain torrents, tumbling down lofty acclivities,
into little valleys, where they run a few miles with a compa
ratively peaceful current, and then dash and roar again over
another precipice ; and so continue till they reach their con
fluence. Thence the Clamet moves on with a heavy whirling
flood until within thirty miles of the sea, where it breaks

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 337
tumultuously through a range of high hills, and meets tide
water ; and thence proceeds in a northwesterly direction to
the Ocean. The aspect of the country lying on this stream is
singularly charming. The mountain sides on the south rise
gradually, and on one-third of their elevation. are clothed with
forests of pine, cedar, and other evergreens. The overtopping
peaks shine with drifting snows. The highlands on the north
are generally covered by trees, with rugged crags beetling
out over their tops ; and, at intervals, conical peaks arise, in
some instances, in clusters, and in others, in solitary magnifi
cence, over the lower hills. These peaks are frequently very
beautiful. Their form is that of the frustum of a cone ;
around their bases are green forests; on their sides hangs
the dwarf cedar tree, pendant in the air ; on their very top,
in the cold season, is a cap of snow ; and down their steep
sides murmur little brooks. The largest of these peaks lie,
however, to the eastward, in the President's range. The
most conspicuous of these is Mount Jackson, in Latitude 41°
40' N. This is the highest elevation in the range to which
it belongs — rising nearly seventeen thousand feet above the
Ocean, in great abruptness, grandeur, and beauty of outline.
Its base rests among deep evergreen woods ; and it is girdled
higher up with shrubs and hardy plants, to the region' of
frosts ; and there commence the sheeting snows which spread
wide and high its vast head with the desolation of eternal
cold. The pathway between Oregon and the Californias
passes near it.
The valley itself is a. rolling, irregular, inclined plane;
broken by forests and isolated hills. The latter spring often
times in the midst of the prairies, like immense haystacks,
several hundred feet high, some in clusters, and others soli
tary. These sometimes occur in the forests; and, in such
cases, they are often castellated with basaltic rocks, presenting
the appearance of ruined castles. The trees of athe Clamit
Valley consist principally of the same various species of the
oak which grow on the other side of the Snowy ridge.

338 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
There is one tree here also in great abundance, which does
not prevail on any other part of the northwest coast ; a spe
cies of Myrtus — the largest of which measure twelve feet in
girth, and one hundred feet in height. All its leaves, wood
and fruit, are strongly aromatic, yielding an odor like Myrtus
Pimento* and producing sneezing like pepper. The fruit is
large, globular, and covered with a fine green skin,' enveloping a
small nut with an insipid kernel, which the squirrel eats with a
greatrelish. So fragrant is this tree, that, when the groves are
moved by the wind, a delicious perfume fills all the surround
ing air.
The soil on the open plains of this delightful vale is very
rich ; and, since the climate is most salubrious, as well as most
favorable to vegetation, this valley will hereafter become one
of the most enchanting abodes of man. Indeed, it would be
difficult to decide whether to prefer this or the vales on the
south side of the Snowy Mountains, were it not for that un
rivalled Bay of San Francisco, which connects the land, whose
streams flow into it, with the commerce of the world more
largely and intimately than the Clamet can do." In fact this river
is both too rapid and too small for ship navigation ; and the
depth of the water on the bar at its mouth being only two and a
half fathoms, it will, of course, never furnish a harbor suitable
for extensive maritime trade. But it is a sweet valley for the
growth of a happy and enlightened population ; a lovely spot
where the farm-house, that temple of the virtues, may lift its
rude chimney among the myrrh trees ; where the wife, faith
ful in her love to her husband, and true to all the holy instincts
of the mother, shall offer her pure heart's undivided devotion
at the altar of Home ! Home ! that only refuge of man from
the toils and pains of the outer world ; that sanctuary, the
desecration of which turns his heart to flint, and his affections
into' fountains of gall.
The Valley of the Clamet will be lighter! from the hearths
of happy homes ere long, and will be densely peopled.
* Douglas.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 339
Sixty miles square of productive soil, surrounded with every
beauty of mountain and forest, sprinkled with sweet grOves,
and threaded with streams of pure water, all under a genial
climate, render it a magnificent site for the dwellings of man.
As we pass southward in our geographical view of the
Californias we find remaining to be described, that belt of
country extending from the Bay of San Francisco in Latitude
37° N. to the port of San Diego, in Latitude 32° N., and
bounded east by the marine range of mountains, and west by
the Ocean. It is three hundred and fifty miles long, and from
fifteen to forty miles wide.
The general aspect of this region is that of an open country,
varied by patches of trees of noble growth, and with lines of
the same along the streams. The northern half of it consists
of rolling alluvial plains without rock or stone, traversed by
low mountains of porphyry, basalt, and jasper, partially cov
ered with pine, cedar, and oak forests. The plains between
these highlands are well watered, and of a rich, enduring soil
The southern half of the region is somewhat more broken by
the mountains ; and is not so well supplied with trees and
streams. But there are mamy very large tracts of rich plains,
covered by forests of live oak and other valuable trees ; and
numerous broad prairies, with a pliable and inexhaustible
soil. Perhaps I ought to say that this is, indeed, the most
valuable part of the Californias, and true it is, that this belt
of country, lying between the Latitudes thus named, is the
crowning glory of Upper California, as will appear oncoming
pages. Climate. — For the space of seventy-five miles northward
from the Cape San Lucas, the air is moistened by the vapors
of the sea and the exhalations from many parts of the ground.
The earth is watered by numerous little currents running
among the hills, and clothed with tropical vegetation. From
this point, seventy-five miles north of the Cape, to the Latitude
of Loretto, are high craggy mountains and a barren soil, the
mere cinders of volcanic action. On account of the increased

340 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
distance of the interior from the sea and the Gulf, and the ab
sence of streams of water, the heat is excessive ; as great as
in Arabia, or Sahara. A few sunken vales separated, from one
another and the world, by vast tracts of burnt heights, enjoy
the cooling influences of shady trees and springs of water.
And along the coast, the sea breezes and some small streams
bursting from the barren mountains, give some humidity to
the atmosphere in several places, and scent it with vegetation.
But these are only unimportant qualifying circumstances to
the general fact, that the sun heats that lofty belt so fiercely
that vegetation refuses to grow, and water to run, it is so
soon swallowed by the thirsty earth or evaporated by the
parched air. From the Latitude of Loretto to the Latitude of
San Diego, 33° N, the air becomes milder. In the mountains,
although they are not so high and rugged as those farther
south, the temperature is sometimes so low in winter as to pro
duce frost ; and on the coast, there is an increase of humidi
ty. Between the mouth of the Colorado and the Pacific, there
is a region of very delightful climate. The mountains increase
in height, and among them are many beautiful plains, watered
with abundant springs and brooks, and interspersed with many
pleasant woodlands — which together render the air charming
ly temperate.
In the country between the Gila and the Colorado, there is
a great variety of temperaturp. From the junction of the two
rivers, for the distance of 200 miles up the Colorado, and
about one hundred up the Gila, the climate is exceedingly hot
in summer, and in winter rather frosty. The generally sandy
and barren soil, and a vertical sun, produce the one, and the
contiguity of frozen mountains the other. The valley of the great
Salt Lake is very hot and dry. Some few small streams and
the partially fertile tracts lying on their banks, and the neigh
borhood of the Snowy Mountains, and the vegetation at their
bases in the south-west, modify this description somewhat ; but
generally this great basin of former volcanic fires has a dry
and sultry climate.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 341
The Valley of the San Joaquim and its extension toward the
head of the Gulf of California is exceedingly hot and sultry.
The Marine range on the west effectually prevents the sea
breezes fromreaching it ; and if any other winds are active, the
monotonous level of the northern portion, the short sharp sand
hills of the southern, and the long lines of wood which encircle
the prairies and fringe the streams, prevent their circulation,
and produce there, in a high northern Latitude, all the heat
and consequent discomforts of the torrid zone.
The climate of the Valley of the Sacramento is exceedingly
various. Near the mouth of that stream, and northward
eighty miles to the forks, the heat of the summer sun is in
tense ; but is much modified by occasional showers, and the
humid breezes from the Bay of San Francisco. Higher up
among the narrow prairies, along the banks of both forks
and their tributaries, the dashing of cascades, the shading
influences of lofty and wooded mountains, and the rich carpet
ing of a luxuriant vegetation, produce a temperature, than
which a more desirable cannot be found in any country. An
incomparably fine soil, nestled in long and delicately curved
lines among scenery of the wildest mountain cast, with water
from the overlooking snows and glaciers, and fanned by air
which can claim kindred with that of Italy or Greece, is a
collection of excellences which are found, I believe, on that
spot alone in North America. The climate of the territory
lying between that just described and the sea, and for forty
miles around the Bay of San Francisco, is equally fine, with
the exception that heavy fogs press up from the Bay and the
Pacific during a portion of the summer months. But this is
to be deemed rather a good than an evil ; for moisture is
thereby distilled over the thirsty ground during the dry sea
son ; and the breezes which bear it over the land, come
freighted with .the cooler atmosphere of the sea, to temper the
air, and render it more healthful and agreeable.
The climate of that portion of the Californias which lies
between the Marine range and the sea, has called forth ex-

342 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
pressions of admiration from every traveller in the country
since it was discovered. But in order to give a clear idea of
it, we will speak of it in detail. The intense heat of summer
begins in the month of June, when every leaf of herbage south
of Monterey is dried to a cinder. The fogs generally moisten
the coast to the north, and keep it green.
On the coast south of Monterey, the thermometer some
times rises to 108° or 110° Fahrenheit, in still summer wea
ther ; but usually the sea-breezes keep it down to 70° and
75°. North of Monterey, the fogs always accompany the
hottest weather, and modify its temperature.
Some few points on this coast are visited by disagreeable
sea winds. But these places are small and few in number.
And yet this is doubtless as fine a climate as can be found.
Nc causes of disease exist here.
Agriculture. — The agriculture of Upper California is as
yet confined to the region lying between the Marine range
and the sea, and is chiefly carried on by the converted Indians
at the Missions. And when we inform the reader that the
mode of cultivation has not changed since the first settlement
of the country, its rude and unskilful character will be easily
understood. A few statements, however, may make it more
manifest. When a field is brought under the plough, it is
planted with the same crop, as oats, or wheat, &c, until it is
exhausted ; and then permitted to lie waste, until it acquires
the power to produce the same crop again. Alternation of
crops is deemed a heresy always to be avoided.
The grains raised in the Californias, are maize (Indian
corn), oats, wheat, and barley. Peas, and a small bean called
frixole, are also cultivated. Maize is the staple bread corn
of the country. It is cultivated in drills, and, even with the
little skill used in raising it, produces abundantly. Wheat is
sown broad-cast as with us; and, strange to tell, such is the
loose and rich quality of the soil, that the seed which falls at
the harvesting of the first crop, yields without the aid of
plough or harrow two-thirds of a crop the second season, and

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIA S. 343
half a crop the third. My friend Dr. Marsh, a resident on
the banks of the Rio Sacramento, and intimately acquainted
with the Californias for the last fifteen years, writes the au
thor thus : " The southern parts of Upper California are
generally too dry and warm for the successful cultivation of
wheat; tolerable crops, however, are raised. But from Mon
terey northward, and particularly in the Vicinity of San Fran
cisco's Bay, most extraordinary crops are raised with very
negligent cultivation. It is not uncommon to make two,
three, and even five crops from only once sowing. The
average annual yield is from thirty to fifty bushels from one
of seed sown. In one particular instance, in which something
more than ordinary care was used, and of which I was an
eye-witness, from ten bushels sown, three thousand six Bun
dled and fifty-two bushels were harvested." Barley and oats,
the latter more especially, since their introduction, have spread
very widely over the plains, and are now seen everywhere
growing without culture most luxuriantly, and in immense
tracts. Maize returns about one hundred and fifty-fold. In
Lower California, these grains can be raised only in localities
which can be irrigated. In 1839, the harvested crops of
grains in Upper California amounted to 69,000 bushels of
wheat, 22,000 of maize, 3,000 of frixoles, 15,000 of barley,
700 of peas. When an intellectual and industrious race
shall plough that soil, and harvest its generous crops, the
Californias will become the granary of Western America.
The Irish and the sweet potato have been introduced by
American settlers, and thrive remarkably well. Cabbages,
turnips, and other garden vegetables have not yet been tested.
But no doubt can be entertained that these would grow as
well as any other plants.
Hemp and flax have been tried, and prove congenial to the
climate and soil.
But the grape will undoubtedly be the great staple product
of the Californias. It is now considerably cultivated. On
this subject my intelligent friend Dr. Marsh writes thus :
50

344 SCENE8 IN THE PACIFIC.
" Nearly the whole of the Californias is well adapted to the
cultivation of the vine. I have been assured by Mons. Louis
Vignes, a native of Bordeaux, France, that the soil and cli
mate of California are superior to any part of France for this
kind of culture. The competency of this gentleman to decide
on the subject is most satisfactorily proven by the large for
tune he has made at this same business here in the short pe
riod of six years ; although his vineyard has not yet come to
maturity. The olive-tree also flourishes exceedingly well.
Figs, lemons, and oranges, are common south of Monterey,
and produce abundantly all the year. North of that point,
figs are very productive and excellent — but we get only one
crop a year. Cotton and tobacco also thrive finely."
Rice may be raised in untold quantities about the waters
of the San Joaquim and Sacramento. The immense fresh
water marshes about the mouths of these streams are capable
of being turned into fields for the production of this grain, at
very trifling expense. Indeed, it may be confidently asserted,
that no country in the world possesses so fine a climate, cou
pled with so proJuotive a soil, as the sea-board portion of the
Californias, including the territory on the Bay of San Fran
cisco, and the Rivers San Joaquim and Sacramento. But its
miserable people live unconscious of these things. In their
gardens grow the apple, the pear, the olive, fig, and orano-e,
the Irish and sweet potato, the yam and plantain most
luxuriantly, side by side ; and yet they sleep, and smoke, and
hum some tune of Castilian laziness, while surrounding Na
ture is thus inviting them to the noblest and richest rewards
of honorable toil.
But this idleness notwithstanding, the Californians are rich ;
rich, in the most luxuriant wild pastures', and the cattle,
mules, horses, and wild animals that feed upon them. The
immense number of these animals in the time of prosperity
among the Missions, may be gathered from another extract
from Dr. Marsh's letter : " Some of the Missions were for
merly possessed of great wealth. For several years during

r

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 345
the civil wars of the Mexican Revolution, no vessels of any
kind visited this coast, and both the Missions and private fami
lies were obliged to rely entirely on their own resources for
supplies of every kind. And when the ships of Boston, after
the wars had ceased, began to visit these shores again, foi
hides and tallow, such quantities of these articles had accu
mulated, that the single Mission of San Gabriel purchased
several successive cargoes of cloths and groceries, at about one
hundred thousand dollars each, and paid for them in hides
and tallow. This Mission at that time possessed over one
hundred thousand head of neat cattle, and great numbers of
horses and sheep. The vineyards produced between two and
three hundred barrels of brandy annually, and wine enough
for the consumption of the Mission, and for the purposes of
the unbounded hospitality which then pervaded those estab
lishments. " The Indian population. of the Mission at that period was
three or four thousands. At present it is from one to two
hundreds, and the flocks and herds are hardly sufficient to
support them. The same remark will apply, with little vari
ation, to all the Missions of the Californias. They are mere
skeletons of what they formerly were. San Josef is the only
exception. This still has a population of about fourteen hun
dred souls, twenty-five thousands of black cattle, nearly the
same number of sheep, and considerable bands of horses,
mules, &c."
The Doctor further remarks : " These Missions were the
first establishments of the Spaniards on this coast. Those in
Upper California were begun in 1776 by the Franciscan
Missionaries, assisted by a few troops sent by the Viceroy of
Mexico. After some progress had been made in taming and
teaching the native savage population, mechanics and artisans
were sent to assist in rearing those noble structures which are
now seen on most of the Mission premises. Awhile after
wards two companies of young married men, with their fami
lies, were sent up from Senora, who performed the double

346 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
duty of soldiers for the protection of the Missionaries, and the
founders of a new colony. The first missionaries were men
of great piety, benevolence, patience, and perseverance. It
cannot fail to excite the wonder of any one at all acquainted
with the indolence and fickleness of the Californian Indians,
to behold the immense amount of labor, agricultural and me
chanical, which has been performed by them under the mild
and paternal government of those monks. Every mission was
a thriving and happy community until the Mexican Revolu
tion drove the Padres from the country, and commenced that
work of ruin which has laid them in the dust."
While the Missions were being destroyed in the manner
shown on previous pages, the plantations of individuals some
what increased in number and extent. So that, although the
number of domestic animals and the agricultural wealth,
generally, was greatly reduced by the destruction of the Mis
sions, there is now believed to be in the country about
1,000,000 black cattle, 500,000 horses, 420,000 sheep, 3000
mules, 3000 goats, and 2000 swine.
These animals roam on the unfenced plains and hills, and
are never an object of care to the owners, except when they
desire to hrand, butcher, or sell them. The swine are seldom
used for any other purpose than for making lard and soap.
The sheep are raised for the wool only ; the goats are used
for milk ; the mules for draught ; the horses for riding only ;
but those required for such purposes form a very small pro
portion of the whole number reared. Immense herds of these
animals live in a wild state in the neighborhood of the settle
ments, and often become so numerous as to render it neces
sary to destroy them in great numbers in order to preset the
grass for the cattle. I was credibly informed that fifteen
thousand of these noble animals perished thus in one year, on
a single hacienda.
The mode of making legal title to animals in the Califor
nias may not be uninteresting. I will give the reader a short
account of it furnished me by my excellent friend, Dr. Lyman.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 34/
" Early in the autumn, a rodea is appointed by the rancheros
(farmers), to unite in collecting their cattle together for the
purpose of deciding to whom they belong. At this meeting,
all the cattle of the settlement are gathered into immense
carols or pens, and the ears of each cow having been marked
by a peculiar cut, called serial, ownership of the calf follow
ing her, is easily made apparent, by placing a similar serial
on its ear. It is not considered safe to brand the calf with a
hot iron till it is a year old, and the reason of putting on the
serial, is that the owner may know his calf in case it is
weaned before it is a year old. In the spring, yearling calves
are collected by an appointed rodea of cattle. The owners
of the calves recognizing them by the serial, separate them,
and brand with a hot iron the owner's hierro, or legal mark,
on the hip. Every stock-breeder has three marks for his
cattle, each of which must be recorded at the Alcalde's
office, and a fac-simile of it placed on the books, which ren
ders, it legal. No two persons can have the same marks.
Forging of the mark is severely punished. Afterwards, when
ever a sale is made of either a live animal or a hide, it is not
legal unless the owner brands the animal or hide on the
shoulder, with a smaller iron than the hierro, which is called
the ' venta,' indicating sale. If at person buys an animal or
hide without having it first branded with the ' venta,'
the former owner, if inclined to be rascally, can reclaim his
property."

=J

CHAPTER XX.
Los Presidios. — Los Missiones. — Los Pueblos. — Harbors. — Inhabit
ants. — Meztizos. — Whites.
The Presidios of the Californias arc fortresses occupied by
a few troops under the command of a military prefect. These
posts were originally established for several purposes; one
was, the national occupancy of the country ; another, the pro
tection of the Missions against the insurrections of the Indians
gathered in them, and the incursions of the wild tribes on
their borders ; and still another was, to serve as receptacles
for the royal revenue which was expected to arise from the
Mission plantations, and the pearl fisheries. In early times,
the commandants of these Presidios were under the absolute
control of the Padres. The Padre President, or bishop of
each of these provinces, was the civil, military, and religious
prefect, the supreme governor of the people in his bishopric.
The commandant of each Presidio was therefore uncondition
ally subject to his orders ; and the Padres of each Mission
constituted a council of Government, subordinate to the Padre
President, over the Indians and other persons connected with
the particular station to which they belonged, whether they
resided at the Mission or in towns, within its assigned juris
diction. In the progress of time, four of these posts were
established in Upper California ; El Presidio San Diego, situ
ate on the coast in Latitude 32° N., having under its protec
tion the Missions of San Diego, San Louis Rey, San Juan
Capistrano, and San Gabriel ; and the Presidio Santa Bar
bara, situate on the Canal de Santa Barbara, Latitude 36° 35
N., having within its jurisdiction the Missions Santa Barbara,
San Fernando, San Buenaventura, Santa Inez, and La Puris
sima, and the town of El Puebla de los Angelos ; the Presidio

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 349
of Monterey, situate on Monterey Bay, Latitude 36° N , em
bracing the Missions, San Louis Obispo, San Miguel, San
Antonio, Nuestra Senora de la Solidad, San Carlos, San Juan
Bautista, the Pueblo of Monterey, and the villa of Brauciforte ;
the Presidio de San Francisco, situate on the San Francisco
Bay, Latitude 37° N., having under its jurisdiction the Mis
sions Santa Cruz, San Jose, Santa Clara, San Francisco, San
Rafael, San Francisco Solana, and the Pueblos, Yerba Buena
and San Jose de Guadelupe.
The structures of these Presidios consist of walls of unburn!
brick, twelve feet in height, enclosing an area of about one
thousand square yards, within which are the house of the
Cornmandante, and the barracks of the troops.
At a short distance from the Presidios are what are called
castillos, the forts, where the cannon, powder-house, &c, are
situated. Within four or five leagues of the Presidios are certain
farms called ranchios, which were assigned for the use of the
garrisons, and as depositories of the cattle and grain which
the crown was expecting to receive, as taxes from the Missions.
Each of these Missions had allotted to it by the old Spanish
Government fifteen square miles of ground ; and the priests
having the right of choosing the sites, selected the very best
soil, and in other respects the finest locations in the country.
On these have been erected buildings of various plans and
sizes,,according to the taste of the priests and the number of
Indians to be accommodated. Some are built around a square ;
the buildings themselves forming an enclosing wall on three
sides, and a wall and gateway supplying the other side : the
church, the priest's house, and Indian dwellings, workshops,
granaries, and prisons, all fronting upon the enclosed area-
Others are surrounded by a high wall; others are built on
the open plain, the church in the centre, and the Indian huts
leading off from it in rows, forming streets. And still others
have the church, the granaries, magazines, jail, &c , enclosed

350 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
with a wall, while the huts of the Indians stand unprotected
outside. They are generally constructed of large unburnt bricks,
and roofed with tiles. Some of the churches and priests'
houses are of stone ; and being whitewashed by way of pre
eminence among the Indian dwellings, make an imposing
appearance upon the lofty hills, on the borders of the sea, or
the rich spreading plains among the green highlands.
Each of the establishments is designed to have two priests.
This intention, however, is not always carried out. More
commonly one priest, with his major-domo, and several sub
ordinate officers to overlook the labor of the Indians, consti
tute the official court of a Mission.
The married Indians, and the officers and priests of the
Missions, occupy houses. The unmarried Indians of all ages
are put into large rooms at night, which are well grated and
locked, to prevent them from escaping to the wilderness and
their former habits of life. The unmarried females and males
thus imprisoned in their separate apartments at night, and
kept separate at their duties during the day, never associate
much together until they are married. This is deemed neces
sary to preserve their virtue.
The churches of these missions are well supplied with the
paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic worship, the altar, the
receptacle of the host, the censer, the cross, the images of
the Saviour and the Saints, pictures of Paradise and Hell.
These, the costly dresses of the priests, and the imposing
processions and ceremonies of the church, were well calcu
lated to arrest the attention of those most stupid of all the
North American Indians ; and give them their first impulses
toward the paths of moral virtue.
The religious exercises of the Missions are those common to
Catholic churches throughout the world. Morning and evening
Mass; the commemoration of the Patron Saints; High Mass
on extraordinary occasions ; religious processions on Corpus
Christi and other great festal occasions ; at which times the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 351
young Indian girls are dressed in scarlet skirts and white
bodices, or other colors suitable to the occasion. Every In
dian, male and female, is obliged to attend the worship ; and
if they lag behind, a large leathern thong, at the end of a
heavy whip-staff, is applied to their naked backs, that the
pain of disobedience may be contrasted with the pleasures of
the opposite course.
In church, the males and females occupy different sides,
with a broad aisle between them. In this aisle are stationed
men with whips and goads to enforce order and silence, and
keep them in a kneeling posture. By this arrangement, the
untamed and vicious are generally made willing to comply
with the forms of the service. In addition to these restraints,
a guard of soldiers with fixed bayonets occupies one end of
the church, who may suppress by their more powerful wea
pons any strong demonstrations against this comfortable mode
of worshipping God. The choirs of the churches are composed
of Indians, who perform quite well upon various kinds of
instruments, and chant with considerable musical accuracy
It is due to the Padres to say, that they devote nearly all their
time tq the good of the converts ; and, bating the objections
which we have to the manner of conversion, and of sustaining
them in the way of grace, no fault can be found with them.
They treat them like children, and appear to have a sincere
concern that they should live and die in the arms of that
faith, which they believe to be the only guide of the soul in
its way to Heaven.
Los Pueblos, &c.— Los Pueblos, or villages, are small
towns which grew up near the Missions. Their first inhabitants
consisted of Spanish emigrants from different parts of Mexico.
But to these were afterwards added such soldiers of the Pre
sidios as obtained permission from the King of Spain to retire
from the service and marry Indian women. Those in Upper
California which had this origin are Pueblo de los Angelos, in
Latitude 34° 10' N,, and Pueblo deSan Jose de Guadeloupe, in
Latitude 36° 50' N. In later times another has been established
51

352 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
by American emigrants on the Bay of San Francisco called
Yerba Bueno, and another on the waters of the Sacramento,
by a Swiss gentleman named Suter.
The Villas are towns of somewhat less dignity than the
Pueblos. The principal of these is situated on the north side
of Monterey Bay, near the Mission Santa Cruz. It is called
Branciforte. There are several others growing up in various
parts of the country, which are yet too small and unimportant
to be noticed.
Harbors. — The seaward coast of the Californias, extending
through twenty degrees of Latitude, has only two good harbors.
There are indeed very many roadsteads and bays, where vessels
anchor with considerable safety, and take in and discharge
cargoes ; but they are all exposed to some of the prevailing
winds. The only well-protected harbor is San Diego, lying
in Latitude 33° 17' N. This is land-locked — without surf,
with a smooth hard sand beach, and free from rocks and
stones. But it is much less in extent — ^and far less valuable
to commerce than the Bay of San Francisco.
The Bay of San Francisco is the glory of the Western
world. Its mouth lies in Latitude 37° 58'. The water on
'the bar is eight ifathoms at low tide. The mountains on
dther hand rise several hundred feet above the sea, and form
fine land-marks in foggy weather to point out the bar, and
the channel into the harbor. The capes at the ocean's edge
are about two miles apart ; always verdant and refreshing to
the eye ; and, as you go up the passage, the little streams
tumbling from the rocks among the greenwood, and the wild
game, standing out on the cliffs, or frolicking among the
brush, and the seal barking in the water, give promise of
pleasure and rest from the toils of the sea.
This passage is about five miles in length. Four and a
half miles from the capes it narrows considerably, and pre-
-sents a bold point north and south. On the southern one
stands the Presido or fort, on which this mighty harbor con
descends to depend for protection. The fort is in ruins. A

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 353
dozen old rus.ty guns in the care of thirty or forty half-clad
half-breed soldiers, usually foraging in squads of five or ten
among the neighboring Missions ; one side of its walls tum
bled down, and another strongly disposed to plunge into the
sea, and not the tenth of a true soldier's heart beating for a
hundred miles ' around, is a true sumnaing up of its present
strength. The house of the commandant, situated in one corner, is
a respectable whitewashed pile of mud and bricks. On the
other corner of the same side is the chapel, also built of mud :
a filthy place for worship. On another side are artificers'
sknps and a prison. The two other sides are broken down,
not by the flying metal of brave conflict, but by the gentle
pattering of the rains ; the ruins covered with bones ! not the
bones of fearless men, who have fallen in the breach, throw
ing their gushing blood in the face of a conquering foe ; but
the bones of beeves that have been gnawed by the garrison
during years of valorous eating. Densely manned, also, are
these piles of adobie and osseous ruins, not with rank and file
of mailed warriors, but with dogs, vultures, and jackals.
This is Fort San Francisco, one of the strongest posts in the
Californias. Heaven help its dogs, Vultures, and jackals, in
case of a siege ! •
Six miles from the capes at the mouth, and at the point
where it begins to open into the Bay, are two small islands
on which forts might be conveniently built, that would com
mand the narrows, and also the entrance into both the north
and south parts of the bay. Indeed, the whole bay is so
studded with islands easily fortified, and so overhung by
headlands, which of themselves are fortresses, that a party in
possession of them could hold the Bay against vast odds, and
in comparative security. From the narrows to the northern
point of the Bay is twenty-four miles, and to the south-east
ern point thirty-five' miles.
The southern half of the Bay varies from fourteen to fifteen,
the northern half from four to twenty miles in width. In

354 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
every part of this large tract of water is good holding ground,
and on all its shores are coves in which vessels of any tonnage
may lie snug and secure from storms, within a cable's length
of the land. In the NW. corner of the Bay is the inlet of
the Rio Sacramento. It is about one and three-fourth miles
wide for the distance of seven miles, and then spreads out
into a bay seven miles wide, and twelve in length, when it
narrows down to four miles for the distance of two miles
and a half, then widens to seven or eight miles the distance
of eleven miles', with islands in the eentre, then narrows to
four miles for the distance of three miles, and then it widens
into a bay about twenty miles north and south, and about the
same distance east and west, studded with nine islands.
On the east of it, between the mouth of the Sacramento
and the Bay, lies one about fifteen miles in length, NE. and
SW. ; and of a breadth varying from three miles to ten.
All these islands are low and marshy. On the southern point
of this large island comes in the Rio San Joaquim, and on
the northern point of it is the northern mouth of the Sacra
mento. On the south side of the promontory on which stands the
fort, Castillo de San Francisco, is a little village called Yerba
Bueno. As the harbor in which foreign vessels refit and pur
chase supplies lies in front of Yerba Bueno, it will scarcely
be imparting any fact not legitimately inferable from their
known character, to say that the Yankees have built and
inhabit this town. These descendants of the kings and nobles
of the old Saxon Heptarchy, knighted and ennobled anew by
the physical and mental conquests over the wilderness of
America and over the oppressions of their Norman conquerors,
the reigning families and nobles of Great Britain, have built
up an empire of mind on which the sun never sets. In the
Bay of San Francisco is Yerba Bueno. In the Sandwich
Islands a nation is spoken into being. The Chinese seas are
burdened vrifh its ships. On the coast of Africa the emanci
pated slave unfurls the banner of Freedom over the fortunes

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 355
ot an independent national existence, and almost the entire
habitable parts of this great continent, are feeling and enjoy
ing the impulses to human Freedom which the American
Saxons sent out to the race on the Fourth of July, 1776.
These Yankees at Yerba Bueno employ themselves in their
characteristic business of doing everything.
The surpassing beauty and magnificence of this harbor of
San Francisco can never be properly estimated by *being
viewed from the land. One must approach it from the sea ;
have a full view of the lofty shores north and south, rising
at intervals into lofty peaks girded at their bases with prime
val forests of evergreen cedars and pines mottled with the
boughs of the oak, the ash, and the plane. The bar which
springs from the northern headlands of its entrance, and, run
ning beneath the blue waters of the Pacific from five to nine
fathoms, causes a belt of surf to roll across the mouth, must
be passed. A breeze must bear your bark over and along
the dangerous rocks three quarters of a mile inside on the
right, quarrelling with the surges ; and onward four miles
between the projecting cliffs, overhanging peaks and verdant
woodlands filled with starting deer and other game, to the
harbor at the narrows beneath the fort ; and thence onward
still past the fort and the islands lying across the entrance ;
and the Bay is seen ! a broad sheet of water stretching off,
north and south, the largest and best harbor of the earth, sur
rounded by a country, partly wooded, and partly disposed
in open glades and prairies of the richest kind, covered
with the flocks and herds of the Missions, and deer, and elk
and bears. And amid the beautiful hills of the south and east
are Santa Clara, El Pueblo San Jose, and Mission San Jose ;
and on the southern peninsula, five miles wide, is San Fran
cisco, Yerba Bueno, the trading-house of the Hudson Bay
Fur Company, the Presidio and the Castillo ; on the north
ern peninsula is San Rafael, and in the north San Francisco
Solano; a group of beauty and grandeur, that knows no
superior in any clime. *

356 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
White Inhabitants. — The policy of the Catholic priests
who conquered these countries, and who held absolute sway
over their destinies until the Mexican Revolution, was to dis
courage settlements. The reasons for this course on their
part were, that the Indians could be more easily controlled
by them, in the absence of other persons claiming larger free
dom than they themselves were then fitted to enjoy. In order
to carry out these views, therefore, they used all their influ
ence with the Vice-regal Government of Mexico to prevent
emigration thither, and were ever watchful to enforce upon
the soldiers of the Missions that law of Spain which prohibits
them to marry without the express consent of the crown.
And hence it is that from 1769 to 1843 only six free vil
lages or towns have been founded in the Californias. And
the free white and half-breed inhabitants of these extensive
territories number at this day less than six thousand.
Their character is quite peculiar. The half-breed, as might
be expected, exhibits much of the Indian character ; the dull
suspicious countenance, the small twinkling piercing eye, the
laziness and filth of a free brute, using freedom as the mere
means of animal enjoyment. This class of Californians usu
ally compose the soldiery of the Presidios, and the herdsmen
of the Ranches or plantations, and in these capacities perhaps
perform their duties as well as their white relatives do theirs.
However, it should here be stated that as soldiers it makes no
kind of difference in the exhibition of their bravery, whether
their guns have either lock, stock, or barrel ; for never, in a
single instance, since the country was settled, have the Cali
fornian troops been so wanting in courage as to fire at an
enemy, unless he were in a helpless condition, nor so wanting
in discretion as to wait to be fired at, w hen there was a
chance to run away in safety.
The intelligence of these meztizos, as they are called, is
quite limited ; and what little they do possess, is of very
doubtful utility. For it seems to be used chiefly in directing
their choice of shade trees, under which they shall spend the

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 357
day in sloth, or in stealing a bullock's hide on which to throw
their lazy carcasses at night. Their dress, when they chance
to have any, is composed of neat's hide tanned and stamped
like certain Species of saddle-leather. This is made into short
roundabouts, which are buttoned up tightly in front Of the
same material they make loose pantaloons, leaving the outer
seam open to the knee, and at intervals higher up, for the
purpose, as it seemed, from what I daily saw, of enabling
them with greater facility to kill their fleas and lice. On
their feet they wear sandals of raw bull's hide ; their heads
are generally without any other covering than their long dark
hair, usually in anything but a cleanly condition. In some
instances, however, they don an ancient sombrero, long ago
worn out in the service of some ragged cavallero. These
people generally speak both the Indian and Spanish tongues,
and are equally familiar with the ignorance accompanying
the one, and the arrogance and self-conceit inherent in the
other. A jolly set of people are these meztizos, when found awake
with a little brandy in their heads. The elasticity of their
importance is then a very perceptible trait in their notions of
themselves. I have but to imagine myself under the large
tree near the Bay of Monterey, among a group of them which
I once met there, in order to give the reader a peep at them.
It is a fine day in April, the flowers cover the ground, and the
leaves of the trees on the hills are large enough to make the
forests green ; the swells of the Pacific are breaking on the
shore hard by, and a half-dozen meztizos are dancing
and vomiting as occasion or inclination appears to require.
Look at them ; when it chances to be possible to retain any
thing in their mouths long enough to afford a transit to the
interior, the native brandy from the Missions is whispering
and babbling its way over the palate and downward ; a gur
gling stream full of Lethe, hiccoughs, and other precious
commodities that anon reappear.
They talk and sing of their parentage ; the one is proud

35S SCENES I M THE PACIFIC.
that his father was an Indian of immense form, who lived on
the head-waters of the San Joaquim, whose head brushed the
boughs of the loftiest cedars, and whose arrows were often
dulled against the brazen sides of the sun. Another plumes
himself upon his Spanish blood. His great grandsire was a
boatswain on board of some Spanish brig, the keel of which
broke the Pacific waves when the white man brought the
holy cross and tobacco seed into the Californias. Right
merry fellows these, and whether drunk or sober, show a
degree of consideration for their noble selves which would
appear entirely marvellous and extraordinary in any country
not inhabited by the successors of the worthy and knightly
Quixote, Sancho, and Rosinante.
That part of the population which by courtesy are called
white, are the descendants of the free settlers from Mexico
and the soldiers of the garrisons and Missions, who were per
mitted by his most Catholic Majesty to take wives. Their
complexion is a light clear bronze ; not white, as they them
selves quite erroneously imagine; and, withal, not a very
seemly color ; not remarkably pure in any way ; a lazy color ;
and for that reason, rather out of place, associated as it is,
with large dark flashing eyes, a finely chiselled, Roman nose,
and teeth as clear and sound as pearl. Looking at the mere
exterior of these men, the observer would most probably come
to the conclusion that they were somewhat humanized. The
speaking gait, the bland gesture of complaisant regard, the
smile, that ray of the soul, all seem civilized — truly Castilian.
The wide-rbrimmed and conical-crowned sombrero also, with
its rope-like silver cord band, well be-tasselled, shoes and
shoe-buckles, pantaloons well opened at the side seams,
showing the snow-white flaunting drawers, the snugly-fitted
roundabout, with its spherical silver buttons, and the largely
proportioned vest, swinging loosely to the wind, the keen
Spanish knife sitting snugly in its sheath along the calf of
the leg, all would indicate to the sojourner of a day among
them, that these Castilianos Californios were accustomed to

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 359
be meri fulfilling some of the important ends of existence, in
a worthy and gentlemanly way. And so they do, as under
stood in the Californias. They rise in the morningj that is to
say, before noon-day, from their couches of blankets or bulls'
hides, and breakfast upon broiled or boiled beef and fried
beans. After breakfast, they muster a tinder-box from the
pocket, strike fire, light cigars made of tobacco rolled up in
little slips of paper, till the ignited weed burns and discolors
their thumb and fore-finger aristocratically, and then betake
themselves to their napping again. Thus stands or lies their
humanity till the dinner hour. Roast beef, frijoles, and cho
colate, brandy and wine, if, indeed, Senor Poverty own a
corkscrew and its appendages, make up the materiel of this
event. And having eaten and drunken liberally, Senor
crosses himself reverently over his gastric apparatus, lays him
self carefully upon his couch, and gives himself and his diges
tion to his guitar, till chocolate comes at sun-set, to bedew
his inner man for the slumbers of the night. Thus we have a
glance at los hombres Californios.
Whenever want or a revulsion of nature long unused, drives
these people to corporeal exercise, they, true to their laziness,
make the horse perform the greater part of it. Indeed, a
Californian is never the half of himself unless he be on horse
back. And to go abroad for any purpose without a saddle
under him would, in his opinion, be as ridiculous as to break
fast without beans, or be a Christian without, praying to the
Saints. They are excellent horsemen ; the very best in North
America ; and, I am inclined to believe, the best on the con
tinent. Be this opinion right or wrong, it will be interestino-
to know them as they are. I will present the horse part
first, as the most interesting portion of a Californian cavallero.
There is no better animal than the Californian ȣavallo. He
presents all colors — from black to white, dappled, mixed and
shuffled together in the most beautiful confusion. His head
and neck are lightly made — his eye burns with that kindly
yet unquenchable fire so peculiar to' his progenitors, the An-

360 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC,
dalusian Arabian steeds. His chest is broad and full, his loins
well knit, and closely laid to the ribs, his limbs clean, slen
der, and sinewy ; the embodiment of the matchless wild horse
of a green and sunny wilderness. His gear is peculiar. The
bridle is anything but a time-serving check upon his pro
pensities. Its demands are thoroughly peremptory, as will be
seen by a little attention to its construction. It has a bit
without a joint, so doubled, as to extend four or five inches
back into the mouth, and instead of a curb, a solid iron ring
passes through the upper part of the curved bit, and around
the lower jaw ; so that when the rein is drawn, the doubled
portion of the bit prying open the mouth, the iron ring acts
with such force that the under jaw may be broken at the will
of the rider. The saddle is made up of a number of articles ;
as a piece of bull's hide on the back of the horse ; on this, a
Spanish saddle-tree lashed as tightly as an ordinary man can
do it, and over all a grisly bear skin. The stirrups are oblong
blocks of wood, four or five pounds weight, six inches in
diameter one way, and three in the other, with holes in them
through which to thrust the feet. In front, and attached to
the stirrup-straps, are suspended round pieces of sole leather
prettily stamped, which fall over and protect the feet from the
prickly pear, under-brush, &c, through which it may be
desirable to ride.
The horse, accoutred in this way, is prepared for service.
And the Indian who has rigged him, stands with him at the
door waiting for the Don rider, who, after sufficient delay to
be respectable, makes his appearance. His spurs are a
curiosity; their weight is a pound and a half; the part hold
ing the rowel is five inches long ; and the teeth of the rowel
wheels are one and a half inches in length ! And now all
being ready, leather breeches is released, the Don is off on a
full gallop ; it is death or banishment for a Californian horse
to trot. No man can ride better than one of these Dons. He
leans forward sufficiently to give him command of his body,
holds.his rein lightly in his left hand, feeling that he is perfect

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 361
master of the animal, and riding fearlessly over the brinks of
precipices, into rushing streams, and elsewhere, in places
where the coward dare not go, unless borne by his fearless
and faithful steed.
These bronze Californians, when on horseback, however,
are by no means contemptible in some few respects. Their
bear hunts are .conducted with much spirit and hazard. Six
or eight, or more of them, ride into the lower ground called
talares, and make war upon a group of grisly bears, weighing
seven or eight hundred pounds each, with no other weapon
than the lasso and a hunter's knife. This lasso is a rope
attached to the girth of the saddle at one end, and with a run
ning noose at the other. This being coiled and hung on the
right hand, at full speed of the horse is thrown around the
neck of the bear they are pursuing, and the well-trained
horse wheeled to the right or left, Bruin chokes himself at his
leisure. Sometimes, however, the bear gives battle to his
pursuers, in which case, horses and sometimes men are killed
and devoured.
-On the fete day, called " Rodea," when the cattle belong
ing to the Haciendas and Missions are brought in to be
branded, the Cavalleros have a fine opportunity to show their
horsemanship and their skill in lassoing. On such occasions,
the whole country side is usually assembled to engage in the
sports of the day, unfed except by the joys of brandy and beef
and beans, incident to the day. And when the company are
gathered, they sally into the plains, and drive the cattle into a
large carol, or enclosure ; the entrance to which is then
closed except so much as will allow them to escape one at a
time. Then commences the branding. The older members
of the herd, which have eluded the brand at former ingather
ings, are first let out ; and as they severally issue from the
gate-way of the caral, a bevy of lasso cavalry start at full
speed after them, the one casting his noose around a fore leg,
another a hind leg, and another the head ; and the animal
rolls upon the plain. Immediately thereupon, the hersemen

362 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
dismount, Wrap their lassos about the legs, and holding down
the head to the ground, apply the hot iron to the shoulder of
the bellowing captive. In this manner they proceed from
day to day, until the vast herds of those estates are marked
with their owners' hierro.
Another and perhaps the most interesting occurrence among
the plantations and Missions is the annual slaughter. Every
year after the cattle become fat by feeding on the wild clover
and oats of that American Italy, thousands of them are
slaughtered for their hides and tallow. And fpr this purpose
they are driven into the carals, and let out in small numbers
as required by the Cavellier butchers. The lasso is the first
instrument used to bring the animals under control ; and most
effectual it is for that purpose. Oftentimes an hundred bullocks
fall around the caral in an hour's time ; their skulls beaten in,
their hides stripped off, the tallow and fat portions of the flesh
seoured, a few of the better pieces of the lean flesh torn off
for eating and drying for the use of the Indians, and the skins
spread upon the ground and stretched with wooden pins to
dry. The Missions, in the days of their prosperity, killed each
its thousands annually — some three, others five, eight, and ten
thousand; tried out the tallow, and laid it away in vaults
under ground, to prevent its melting, and packed their dried
hides away in long low sheds, erected for their reception.
All Californians bear testimony that this is a notable day
amomr them. There are screams of delight in hurling a
monster of a bull upon the ground with their lassos. There
are untold pleasures to their brave hearts in shedding blood,
where there are no rifle balls whistling in their ears a sugges
tion of dangers to their Castilian arteries. And more than all,
after the fete is over, what legitimate opportunities are offered
in the recollections of the day, to expand the periphery of
their self-complacency ; a deed which, if left undone by a
Californian Spaniard, when possible to be performed, would
involve the most flagrant breach of national character ; a de
parture from the well-established laws of Californian glorifi-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 363
cation. Indeed there never was a doubt among Californians,
that they were at the head of the human race. In cowardice,
ignorance, pretension, and dastardly tyranny, the reader has
learned that this pretension is well founded.
Thus much for the Spanish population of the Californias ;
in every way a poor apology of European extraction ; as a
general thing, incapable of reading or writing, and knowing
nothing of science or literature, nothing of government but its
brutal force, nothing, of virtue but the sanction of the Church,
nothing of religion but ceremonies of the national ritual.
Destitute of industry themselves, they compel the poor Indian
to labor for them, affording him a bare savage existence for
his toil, upon their plantations and the fields of the Missions.
In a word, the Californians are an imbecile, pusillanimous,
race of men, and unfit to control the destinies of that beautiful
country. The ladies, dear creatures, I wish they were whiter, and that
their cheek bones did not in their great condescension assimi
late their manners and customs so remarkably to their Indian
neighbors. A pity it is that they have not stay and corset-
makers' signs among them, for they allow their waists to grow
as God designed they should, like Venus de Medici, that ill-
bred statue that had no kind mother to lash its vitals into
delicate form. Black eyes, raven locks, slender hands, elastic
insteps, and you have the Califbrnian ladies.

CHAPTER XXI.
Indians — Their Habitations — Ornaments.— Dress — Civil State — Food
-Matrimony, &c. — Navigation — Warlike Implements — Hunting
and Fowling — Religion — Mode of Burial, &c. — Medicine — Yootas
or TJtaws — Nabajos — Patches, or Piutes.
Indians. — The original inhabitants of Upper California are
understood to belong to the same family of Indians, speaking
the same language, and having essentially the same manners
and customs. Indeed, the whole coast from Lat. 28° N., to
42°, together with the valley of the Sacramento, the San
Joaquim, the Colorado, and the intermediate country, were
peopled by the same race, who number at the present time
not far from 40,000.
The stature of these people varies with their habits. Those
who live on fish and pass an idle filthy life along the Ocean
shore, are about five feet and a half in height, and rather
slender and feeble, while those who inhabit the great valleys
of the interior are taller and more robust. Their complexion
is considerably darker than that. of the Indians in Oregon and
the States ; their lips are large and projecting, and their noses
broad and flat, like the negro; the hair is black, coarse, and
straight, and when left untrimmed, reaches to the hips ; they
usually cut it five or six inches from the head, and this length
causes it to bristle out in all directions, giving the head the
semblance of a colossal hairy caterpillar, coiled up on itself.
Their heads are small and badly formed, the mass of brain
lying back of the ears. The forehead is particularly contract
ed and low ; eyebrows and beard scanty. They have the
habit common to all American Indians of extracting the beard
and the ha;r of other parts of the body. Tattooing is one ot
the arts of beautifying themselves, which is more resorted to

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORN1 I8i 365
by women than men. Their wardrobe is very scanty. A
wrapper of greater or less extent around the waist is their sole
garment. To this is added in winter a rude outer covering
of deer or otter skin. Sometimes they wear a garment
which is made of feathers of the water-fowl, twisted into
ropes and tied together closely, so as to give a downy surface
on both sides. The females always have this or a rush cov
ering around the loins and usually over the shoulders ; the
men are commonly naked. In addition to these, it may be
mentioned, that in the colder hours of a winter day, they are
in the habit of plastering themselves over with mud, to keep
the cold out, which they wash off as the temperature rises.
The Indians make a very rustic kind of habitation, some
thing like the dwelling of the Hottentots. The frame-work
is formed of pliable poles, with their butts inserted into the
ground, and drawn together at the top. These are inter
woven with brush, and thatched with bulrushes. The in
closed area is ten or twelve feet in diameter, and twelve or
fifteen in height, having an opening at the side to admit its
occupants, and a hole at the top to let out the smoke. Within
each of these huts are commonly found eight or ten Indians
of both sexes, and all ages, nearly naked, squatting around a
fire, and covered with a variety of vermin ; a spectacle of
the extreme filth and wretchedness of the most pitiable savage
condition. The furniture of these wigwams, the reader will naturally
infer, is quite limited and primitive. A kind of box or chest,
a bowl shaped like a high-crowned hat, a bone awl used in
making it, a piece of touch-wood for kindling a fire, a small
netting sack in which to put their fruit and seeds, another in
the form of a bag to sling on the shoulders, for the purpose
of carrying their infants when travelling, fishing-nets, bows,
arrows, lances, and a sea-shell for dipping water to drink,
make up the sum total of the furniture of an Indian house
keeper in Upper California.
Ornaments are as much sought after by these as they are
53

366 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
by the tribes farther North and East. But the unfortunate
creatures have little ability to devise and manufacture them.
The more valuable found among them consist of pieces of
carved wood worn as ear-rings, shells strung and worn as
beads, and bands of feathers bound around the head. The
latter are made of the tail feathers of the golden-winged
woodpecker, and are very beautiful. Some of them contain
four or five hundred feathers, and as only two can be obtained
from one bird, it will be observed that the labor of gathering
the materials of these bandeaux is so great as to make them
highly prized by the natives. It is worthy of remark that
bandeaux of a like kind are worn by the Hawaiians.
Divided as they are into small tribes, a portion of their time
is spent in fighting among themselves on account of encroach
ments upon each other's territories. Such occurrences are the
most stirring and notable events of their lives. Their stu
pidity, insensibility, ignorance, inconstancy, slavery to appe
tite, excessive sloth and laziness, being absorbed for the time
in the stir and din of night-watchings and battle, give them
a new existence ; not one creditable to human nature, but one
that breaks the monotony of their beastly existence. On all
other occasions, they seem to have no idea of industry, no
rational and inventive thought, only one strong and controll
ing impulse, the incessant love of amusements of the most
useless and brutal character.
When want presses them into some means of sustaining
life, they hunt the deer, elk, and grisly bear, take fish from
the streams and the ocean, and gather wild fruits, acorns,
seeds, herbs and roots. The seeds they bruise into meal, of
which they make gruel, pudding, &c. Sometimes they make it
into balls, and dry them for future use. With these vegeta
bles they eat fish, deer, elk, rabbits, geese, ducks, quails, &c.
^he whale occasionally lodges on their shores; an event
followed by great rejoicings and feastings. The blubber is a
great luxury among them. They cook the flesh of this ani
mal in holes dug in the ground and curbed up with stone like

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIA S. 367
wells. Over this they build large fires, heat them thoroughly^
clean out the coals and ashes, fill them with whale flesh, cover
the opening with sticks, leaves, grass and earth, and thus bake
their Tepast. After gorging themselves, they hang the
remainder of the whale Upon the branches of the trees, away
from the wolves and bears, and as hunger dictates cut down,
roast and eat. Next to the whale they prize the seal, which
they cook and eat in a similar manner.
These people have their forms of marriage. The matrimo
nial alliance formed, the suitor presents his lady love with a
jug, in their language an olo, the acceptance of which denotes
her consent ; and she makes her return by presenting him
with a net, which reciprocation of testimonials confirms the
marriage. Among some of the tribes, mutual consent of par
ties in the presence of the tribe at the end of a dance is the
form. Parentage and other relations of consanguinity are no
obstacles to matrimony. A man often marries a whole family,
the mother and her daughters ; and it is rather remarkable
in such cases that no jealousies ever appear among these
families of wives. They seem to consider their offspring as
the property of all, and the husband as their common protec
tor. It is not unusual even, to find such unions accompanied
with the most devoted attachment, and old age comes on with
their love unabated. In this also, they assimilate with the
Hawaiians. And their custom in this connection is that women,
immediately after delivery, having washed themselves in
running water, go to the wood and return home laden with
heavy burdens ; meanwhile the lazy husband lies at full length
under the shade of a free, affecting the pangs of labor, ex
treme illness and weakness. This farce continues three days.
All their high festivals are kept during the ingathering of
Pitahaga, when they give themselves up whole nights to
tumultuous jollity. Their principal entertainments are the
acting of pantomimic comedies, which their best players per
form with an astonishing degree of excellence. Extremely
agile and graceful, they represent with vast accuracy by ges-

368 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
ticulation and dumb show, the different motions of fishing,
hunting, war, marriage, and whatever else is most importan*
among them.
In passing from one place to another by land, they go on
foot. On these journeys the women carry the furniture and
do all the labor, except bearing and using the bows and
arrows of their masters, and the flints, tinder, feathers and sin
ews, used in repairing them. The men bore holes in their
ears to which they attach little boxes, in which these latter
articles are secured. Their mode of navigation is perhaps the
worst found among any people. The " Balsa" is the only
thing of the boat kind known among them. It is constructed
entirely of bulrushes. These they tie into bundles about ten
fegt in length, large in the middle and tapering to points at the
ends. These bundles are lashed together in sufficient quantity
to buoy up the required number of persons, more or less ; who
sit flat upon the craft, soaked in water, plying their paddles.
Being pointed at each end, these craft are propelled either way
with equal facility. In calm weather some of them float their
upper surfaces above the water, but in stormy, and indeed
most of them in all kinds of weather, are either below, or on
a level with the water.
These Indians also make baskets of the bark of trees, which
they use in transporting water and in roasting their seeds and
roots. This latter operation is done by the women over a
brisk charcoal fire with such rapidity and skill, as thoroughly
to parch the seeds without burning the baskets. Some of
these baskets are very neatly ornamented with feathers
Their bows and arrows exhibit considerable ingenuity. The
former are from three to four and a half feet long — the wood
part very well wrought, and the backs covered with the sinew
of the deer, which gives them great elasticity and power.
The arrows also are of the best form, with points of flint let
into the wood, and secured by tendons. The Indians use these
weapons with great effect. The smallest bird is killed with
them. Their patience, cunning and skill combined, is per-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. o69
haps best shown, however, in their manner of killing the deer,
which will be described in a following page.
Not less shrewd is their manner of catching the water-fowl.
They erect for this purpose a long pole on each side of the
river, and attach to the one on the shore opposite themselves
a large net of bulrushes so arranged as to be pulled across
the stream at will^artificial ducks and geese, made of the
bulrushes, are then set afloat, which acting as decoys entice
the game toward the poles, when the Indians scare them up,
and springing the net across the stream, arrest their flight
and tumble them into a pouch in the net from which escape
is impossible. Of their religion, it is known that they believe in the con
trol of good and evil spirits to whom they occasionally offer
prayers. They have persons among them professing power
ever thunder, lightning, rain, the movements of whales, &c. ;
but they do not seem to be credited by the Indians, as seers,
but rather as impostors having in view the obtainment of
presents. They firmly believe, however, that all diseases are
sent upon them by the incantations of their enemies. They
appear to have a faint idea of a future state ; for in burning
their dead as they do about the Bay of San Francisco — and
in burying them as they do, farther south — their habit is to de
posit with them bows and arrows and other things, as those
tribes do who have a definite faith in another, existence.
Perhaps the finest traits in the character of these Indians
are their faithful and ardent attachment to each other, and
their admiration of true courage.
After battle, or when disease has destroyed their friends,
they exhibit the truest and deepest ' grief I have ever seen
The parental feeling — particularly maternity, that holiest im
pulse of our nature, is possessed by them in all its extreme
tenderness. The aged and decrepid, too, receive from them
the warmest sympathy, and when the old or the young die,
they lament a number of nights about their tombs, or their
last abode ; and consider it unkind, for many months after, to

370 SCENES IN THE PACIFTC.
mention the names of the dead in the presence of the surviving,
and thus renew their grief. Their respect for the truly valiant
amounts almost to adoration. A chief ov great brave who
falls in battle is always honored ; not indeed with a trium
phal entry into Rome or Paris, but by having a slice of his
flesh eaten by his victorious and reverent enemy. This is es
teemed the highest honor that can be paid to the dead. It
is also believed by them that the flesh eaten will convey to
tlie bosom that receives it, the brave breath that has fled from
the deceased. They, like other North American savagec, take
the scalps of their enemies, and preserve them as trophies of
their valor. One custom among them is, I believe, entirely
peculiar to themselves. They pluck out the eyes of their
enemies, and by some method preserve them in a state of great
perfection, as the most precious tokens of their victory
The hot sand, and hot air baths, are the sovereign remedies
for all diseases among the Indians of Upper California; and
accordingly the means of administering them are found every
where. The former are prepared by scooping out a tre:ieh in
the sand six or eight feet in length by one or two in breadth;
less or more according to the size of the patient. Over this a
fire is kept burning until the sand is thoroughly heated. The
fire is removed and the sand stirred until a proper tempera
ture is obtained. The patient is then laid into the hollow,
and covered with the heated sand up to the neck. By this
means a protracted and profuse perspiration is produced, in
the midst of which the patient plunges into a stream or the
sea. The hot air bath is prepared as follows. A hole is dug in
the ground, on the bank of a stream, or other beds of water,
from five to ten feet in diameter, and from one to three feet in
depth, which is covered with a well braced roof of poles, brush
and grass, all secured by cords and plastered over with mud.
A hole is left in the centre of the roof for the escape of smoke
and admission of the light; one also at the side for entrance
and egress. Several persons enter Ibis oven and build a fire

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 371
of dry wood near the door, which they continue till the tem
perature is raised as high as they can bear it, when they fall
to scraping themselves violently with shells and pieces of
sharp wood; and at length when the heat is no longer sup
portable, leave the oven and plunge into the water. These
processes are repeated till the patient is restored or dead.
Yutas or Utaws. — The tribes of Indians called the Utaws
or Youtas, and the Arrapahoes or Navajos, inhabit the country
lying between the Lake Timpanigos and Santa Fe. The
Utaws range between Latitudes 35° &nd 42Q N., and the
Meridians 29° and 37° W. Longitude of Washington. The
legitimate country of the Arrapahoes lies between 36° and
42? N., and between Meridians 35° and 37° W. Longitude of
Washington, the Jila being their southern and the Sheetska
dee a part of their eastern boundary. -f
" The great Yutas tribe," says my friend Doctor Lyman,
" is divided into two families which are contradistinguished by
the names of their respective head-quarters ; the Taos Yutas,
so called, because their principal camp is pitched in Taos
mountains, seventy miles north of Santa Fe ; and the Timpa
nigos Yutas, who hold their great camp near the Timpanigos
lake." These two families speak the same language, have
the same manners and customs, and indulge in the same bitter
hatred towards each other. A few years ago they were one
people ; but lately an old feud between some of the principal
chiefs resulted in a dismemberment. The Timpanigos Yutas
are a noble race, very friendly to Americans ; and brave and
hospitable. They look upon their brethren of the Taos moun
tains with contempt on account of their thieving propensities,
and their treachery in robbing and often murdering the soli
tary wanderer who may chance to come into their country.
The river San Juan is the boundary between these two bran
ches of the Yutas, across which they seldom pass. Each of
these tribes numbers about ten thousand souls. They subsist
chiefly by the chase ; but cultivate a little maize."

372 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
" The Nabajos maintain perpetual peace with the Timpani
gos, but are at deadly feud with the Taos party.
" These Nabajos are the most civilized of all the wild Indi
ans of North America. They raise a great abundance of
maize or Indian corn, wheat, beans, peas, onions, squashes and
other esculent vegetables, and an inferior kind of tobacco,
known in New Mexico under the name of punche. They
have large droves of magnificent horses, many of which will
compare with the finest horses of the States, both as to ap
pearance and value. They also breed a few mules; but usu
ally supply themselves with these animals by marauding ex
peditions into New Mexico and the Californias. These
Indians are constantly at war with white people, and attack
them whenever they meet them. But in the case of the Ameri
cans they have thus far found that mere animosity and Indian
whoops form a poor defence against the rifles of our trappers.
They are frequently making peace with the people of New
Mexico ; but observe their pledged faith no longer than until
..hey think their duped allies have accumulated a few sheep,
mules and horses ; when the first indication the poor herdsmen
have of the renewal of hostilities, is the descent of a war-party
upon their villages, killing every one who has not time to
escape, driving off all their flocks, and committing every other
kind of depredation. Yet so conterhptible is the cowardice ot
those New Mexicans, that they will exert themselves strenu
ously for a renewal of the peace, which they know the wily
Indian will assent to, now that he has become, for the pres
ent, satiated with plunder. Indeed the experience of these
repeated acts of treachery seems to have no effect in arousing
the courage and indignation of the New Mexicans. They tre,
in fact, morally and physically beneath even the Indian, and
more unfit to rank among the civilized races. They are more
treacherous, more cowardly and more despicable in every
way. They cross themselves and adore the Virgin, at the
same, breath driving a concealed dagger to your heart ; and
pray God for the peace of your soul, while they kick you, be«

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 373
cause in your death-struggles you don't lie conveniently still
for them to rifle your pockets.
" These Nabajos have within a- few years past been ttaght
some respect for the Americans in the following manner.
A large party of trappers, with a few Shawnee and Delaware
Indians, penetrated into the heart of their country, wTere vic
torious in all their skirmishes, killed a great many Indians, at
a loss of only one or two of their own party, and drove off
many mules, horses, and sheep. This expedition has had a
good effect upon the Nabajos. They now prefer trading to
fighting with the Americans. v
" In the autumn of 1841, also, a trader from Bent's Fort, on
the Arkansas, went with a party of thirty-five men into the
Nabajo country, built a breastwork with his bales of goods,
and informed the astonished Indians that he had " come into
their country to trade or fight, whichever they preferred."
The campaign of the old trappers was too fresh in, their
memory to allow hesitation. They chose to trade ; and soon
a brisk business commenced — the savages bartering freely
their valuable furs and blankets for the gaudy goods of the
whites ; so that, in a couple of days, the latter were on their
return to the Arkansas.
" These Indians are in possession of large flocks of sheep,
which they have, at different times, taken from the New
Mexicans. I was informed that they owned in 1841 upwards
of one hundred thousand head. The fleeces of these animals
are long, coarse, and heavy, somewhat resembling mohair.
These they shear, and manufacture into blankets of a texture
so firm and heavy as to be perfectly impervious to water.
This fact I have myself tested by suspending one of them at
its four corners, and pouring in two or three buckets of
water, which remained there until it all evaporated, and not
a drop filtered through. I have now in my possession one of
these blankets which I purchased of the Nabajos soon after I
entered the Taos Mountains, and which, during two years'
encampment in the wilderness, did me most valuable service
54

374 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Throughout very many nights of incessant mountain rains it
was my only shelter ; and never, in a single instance, was
any part of my clothing wet which was covered by it.
" Thev make two species of blankets, both equally efficient
in protecting the wearer from cold and rain. The one, of
which I have a specimen, is made of the native black and
white wool, woven in alternate stripes of about four inches
in width, each with a very narrow border of indigo blue.
This is their common blanket.
" The other is the state robe, the blanket of the chiefs, a sort
of national costume. It is firmly woven of various colors,
and with a great variety of fantastic figures. The scarlet and
indigo borders and decorations are made of the threads of
woollen cloths which they purchase of the traders, unravelled
and rewoven with other yarns, dyed with indigo. From the
bark of the " chimisa" or wild sage (one of the salviee), they
procure a deep brilliant yellow dye. These three bright
colors, with the natural black and white wOol, make, in their
hands, a very superb blanket, and one so highly esteemed by
them, that they will not part with it on any consideration.
Besides being costly arid gay, they look upon theni as na
tional heirlooms, and appear to be offended when a proposi
tion is made to purchase them. I offered a Nabajo chief, for
one of these blankets, different articles which were equivalent
there to at least $75; but he rejected them in a haughty man
ner, notwithstanding they were scarce and exceedingly valua
ble to him. They consisted of a good rifle, powder, lead, indigo,
Vermillion (for painting their faces), coral-beads, knives,
looking-glasses, needles, American tobacco, &c, &c, in a
word, an assortment of all the articles of Indian trade.
" The Timpanigos Yutas are very friendly to the American,
and are delighted to have him in their camp. Their first and
constant greeting is, ' Kahche winay — raarakah nay,' ¦ very
good American.' They manifest the greatest contempt for
the New Mexicans. I travelled through their country with
one of their head chiefs, named Wah-cah-rah, who was on

Indian Chief in Full Dress. — Page 374.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. S^S
his return from an unsuccessful expedition across the St.
John's river, in pursuit of his faithless wife, who had left him
and fled over the border with her paramour. He was quite
sad during the early part of the journey, and was constantly
muttering something of which I frequently distinguished the
expression, ' Kah-che, kai-yah, mah-ru-kah,' which, from
hearing so often repeated, I recollected, and afterwards, when
he became more philosophic, which was the case towards the
latter part of the journey, I asked him to interpret for me
(he could speak a little Spanish), and he said it meant 'very
bad girl.' He disclaimed all thought of invading the country
of his successful rival, for he had, as he said, two other beau
teous Helens, who would console him for his loss, and they
certainly ought to do so, for he was the very beau-ideal of
nature's nobility."
Piutes. — The northern banks of the Colorado, the region
of Severe river, and those portions of the Timpanigos desert
where man can find a snail to eat, are inhabited by a race of
Indians, which I have partially described in my former book
of travels before mentioned, under the name of Piutes. Doctor
Lyman gives the same name differently spelled, Paiuches.
He introduces his observations in relation to them by some
further remarks as to the desolate character of the country
which they inhabit.
" The only animal which I saw for many hundred miles
through this country, was the hare (in one or two instances
a stray antelope), but so wild, that we seldom could kill one
of them. They were so densely covered with vermin, that
nothing but utter starvation would induce one to eat them ;
they live upon the bark and tender branches of wild sage ;
and yet this immense tract of country is inhabited by a com
paratively numerous tribe of Indians, generally known as the
Paiuches, but by some called the Shoshonies, a name perhaps
more properly applied to a tribe living a few degrees to the
northward, and very much like the Paiuches in character.
" The Paiuches speak the same language as the Yutas, and

376 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
are a branch of that tribe, but considered by the latter as
mere dogs, the refuse of the lowest order of humanity ; and
they certainly are ; for living in a country where vegetation
is so scarce, that nothing but the diminutive hare can exist ;
where the water is of the poorest character, and famine an
everyday occurrence ; thus being nearly deprived of even the
plainest nourishment fit for the support of the body, and al
most entirely destitute of clothing to protect them from the
inclemency of winter, what more could be expected of them
than an equality with the brute creation 1 They are superior to
them only in possession of a soul; but of this they seem to be
totally unconscious. They have an idea of some superior
being, whose presence they appear to recognize only in the
raging elements. As to a future state they are utterly igno
rant : their life being one of brutal sensuality, and death a
supposed annihilation. They do not even manifest the mu
tual affection of parents and children, so universally observed
in the brute. There are instances to the contrary, but these
are very rare.
" The food of these Indians is in conformity with the charac
ter of the country they inhabit. They collect the seeds of
grasses, growing on the margins of the springs and salt ponds,
roast and pulverize them between two stones, and then boil
them into a thick mush. Upon this they subsist tolerably
well while the gathering season continues; but being too
stupid and improvident to make provision for the remainder
of the year, they are often in the most wretched condition of
want. Sometimes they succeed in ensnaring a hare, the flesh
of which they eat, and the skin of which they cut into cords
with the fur adhering ; and braid them together so as to form
a sort of cloak with a hole in the middle, through which they
thrust their heads. The bark of pine trees growing on some
of the trap mountains, is also a general article of food ; so
are roots ! Ants, grasshoppers, and lizards, are classed
among their choicest dainties. There are no relentings in
favor of these little unfortunates ; for no sooner are they
grasped by the hand, than the teeth consign them to the tomb

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 377
" It seems impossible that human beings can exist as these
miserably destitute Indians do, without degenerating into the
brutes they are ; and therefore if they were not originally an
inferior order of the human family, they have become so in
all that appertains to the distinguishing and ennobling fea
tures of the race. In stature they are diminutive ; in personal
appearance disgusting in the extreme ; their long untrimmed
hair, instead of hanging in flowing masses over the shoulders,
like that of other American Indians, is thickly matted with
dirt, stands out on the head in hard knots, alive with vermin ;
which latter are eagerly sought after by them, as an article of
food. I have seen other Indians engaged in this species of
foraging, and even some of the women of New Mexico, but
with much less zest and enjoyment of the appetite. Ablution,
a custom universal among other Indians, these never practise.
I might, but will not say more on this matter ; enough has pro
bably been said to give a pretty good idea of the exceeding
disgust I felt at seeing and knowing that such wretched ex
istences attached to our race. Without knowledge, without
shelter, without raiment, food, water, fit for man, they are
born and live and die among those terrible deserts, the most
miserable of men, yet contented with their lot. But every
man's hand is against them. The New Mexicans capture
them for slaves ; the neighboring Indians do the same ; and
even the bold and usually high-minded old beaver-hunter
sometimes descends from his legitimate labor among the
mountain streams, to this mean traffic. The price of these
slaves in the markets of New Mexico varies with the age and
other qualities of person. Those from ten to fifteen years old
sell from $50 to $100, which is by no means an extravagant
pri:e, if we take into consideration the herculean task of
cleansing them fit for market. Their filth in their native
state can indeed scarcely be conceived by one who has not
beheld it ; and to him it seems that nothing less potent than
the waters of Peneus can wash it away.
" Notwithstanding their horrible deficiency in' all the com-
32*

378 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
forts and decencies of life, these Indians are so ardent!)
attached to their country, that when carried into the lands of
their captors and surrounded with abundance, they pine away
and often die in grief for the loss of their native deserts. In
one instance, I saw one of these PaiUches die from no other
apparent cause than this home-sickness. From the time it
was brought into the settlements of California it was sad,
moaned, and continually refused tq eat till it died.
" The Paiuches are very cowardly. They, however, make
some weapons of defence, as bows and arrows. The bows
are about six feet long ; made of the savine {Juniperus sabina).
This wood being very tough and elastic, the bows are both
powerful and durable. Their arrows are made of a species
of cane-bamboo, and are from three to four feet long, pointed
with a bit of fire-hardened wood. When these eanes are
young they chew them for the juice, which contains consider
able saccharine matter. Their habitations, if such they may
be called, are of the rudest character. Some of them are
mere holes dug in the sand-hills; others consist of sticks and
branches of brush and trees piled up conically, and covered
with dirt. This latter kind is usually found where they
attempt villages of greater or less size, and stand huddled
closely together. The interior of these huts is filthy beyond
description. " These Indians, although destitute of that daring which
characterizes many other tribes in the mountain regions of
which we are speaking, are occasionally a source of great
annoyance to those who traverse these deserts, by gathering
around their camps in the darkness of the night, and letting
fly a volley of arrows at the travellers' horses and mules, mor
tally wounding or disabling more or less of them, so that they
must be left behind when the caravan moves on ; and when
danger of chastisement has passed, they surfeit themselves on
their carcases.
" In this description of the Paiuches I have been governed
by my own personal observations," says Doctor Lyman, "made

Indian Warrior. — Page 378.

55

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 379
during the three months I was occupied in traversing their
country. I have been rather minute, because I am not aware
of any other correct account having been given of them.
And although one is disgusted with their personal filth and
mental degradation, yet his strongest sympathies must be ex
cited by this shocking degradation, which the character of the
country that they inhabit promises to perpetuate. They were
the innocent cause of a great deal of suffering to myself and
two companions. Four New Mexicans attached to our party
captured on the banks of the Colorado an adult male and
female with one child, whom myself and two friends tried to
induce them to liberate. But as the other Americans of our
company would not aid our effort, the majority was found
against the movement and it failed. Our humanity raised
such prejudices against us, that dissensions arose which result
ed in a determination on the part of three of us to have no
more connection with the party, and to prosecute our journey
' on our own hook.' The other Americans, as desirous as
ourselves for the liberation of the captives, but, as it proved,
more discreet, remained with the Mexicans. So off we started
by ourselves, three lone men, and travelled thirty-five or forty
days, and endured the most excessive fatigue, and depriva
tions of food and water, much of which would have been
avoided if we had smothered our objections to our companions'
conduct in this affair, and been guided by their greater expe
rience over those dreadful wastes. As it was, however, we
travelled many successive days along the Colorado, over sandy
deserts, subsisting on a daily allowance of a few moulhsful of
thin mush, and a little nauseous and bitter water wherewith
to wet our mouths once in twenty-four or forty-eight hours.
No druggist ever compounded a draught more disgusting than
the green, slimy or brackish waters which we were compelled
to drink. Finally our little stock of provisions was consumed
to the last grain ; and starvation was staring us in the face ;
but relief was not denied us ; the sight of the wooded moun
tains of Upper California inspired us with new strength and

380 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
courage, and soon after we fell in with a river of pure watera
coming: down from them ; more delicious than the streams ot
olden fable; and our thankfulness and delight — who can
measure it 1 It was ecstasy — such feelings I believe have no
words. In those beautiful mountains we surfeited ourselves
on the rich meats and fruits there abounding; prudence was
cast to the winds; we could eat, and therefore did so; but
ere long we suffered bitterly for our imprudence.
"We were not a little gratified, however, on arriving at the
settlements on the sea-shore to learn that after we left the
camp of these New Mexicans, our countrymen who remained
with them, secretly in the night time loosed the Paiuche cap
tives and sent them to their desert homes."
Animals. — Ursus Americanus, The Black Bear, is an
inhabitant of many parts of California, and is too well known
to most readers to require a description. In its habits and
appearance it differs little from its brethren of the north.
Ursus Arctos v. Americanus Barren Ground Bear. —
This is probably a variety of the first mentioned species,
from which it differs in its lighter color, being a dusky
brown. It resembles in appearance and habits; particu
larly in the nature of its food, which consists to a great
degree of fish, the brown bear of Norway. Much confusion
has been produced by confounding this with the next which
we shall mention, and which is now well recognized as a dis
tinct species.
Ursus ferox, The Grisly Bear. — This is the largest, most
formidable, and most remarkable wild animal of the country.
Numerous and almost incredible are the stories related of its
ferocity and strength. Specimens are to be met with meas
uring four feet in height, and weighing from 500 to 1000
p-mnds. Unlike the black bear, this species never climbs
trees. His habits are solitary, and though an Ugly customer
to meet, he seldom becomes the aggressor. Although flesh is
his favorite food, yet when that is not attainable he will eat
vermin, berries and roots, in digging for which, he frequently

wm

i,

iiifpp-
BbI. i - wr>

7%e iWar Pear. — P. 381 .

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 381
overturns fallen timber which a yoke of oxen could scarcely
move. It is seldom that the Indians, with their imperfect
weapons, venture to attack this formidable animal ; and when
ever one is killed by them, the occasion becomes a matter of
great rejoicing, and the fortunate victor is ever after held in
great estimation by his comrades. A steak cut from the
haunch of the grisly bear, and roasted on a stick by a camp
fire, is by no means despicable fare, and the skin forms a most
comfortable couch for the hunter.
Ursus maritimus, Polar Bear.— This great inhabitant
of the frozen regions is not properly a Californian animal,
though there is no dcubt that he sometimes makes his appear
ance on the extreme northern coast, being floated southward
on his own peculiar and original conveyance, a cake of ice.
Procyon lotor, Raccoon. — This well known animal is found
in many parts of California.
Meles Salradoira, American Badger. — This species in
habits the northern part of California as well as the plains
of Missouri and those near the Rocky Mountains north
to the Peace river. It burrows in the sand, and is well calcu
lated for its mode of life, being very strong in the fore feet.
It is entirely different in aspect and size from the European
species. Gulo luscus, The Glutton or Wolverine.-'-This peculiar
animal, which partakes of the nature of the bear, the fox
and the weasel, is well known to the beaver trappers, by
the constant annoyance to which it subjects them in devouring
their baits and destroying their traps. -It is a savage, sullen
creature, and though from its size not formidable to man, it
preys upon small animals. Stories have been often repeated
of the manner in which the wolverine entraps the deer — by
climbing to a branch of a tree, and letting down moss, upon
which the unsuspecting victim stopping to feed, is immediately
mounted by the glutton, which, fixing his claws and teeth in its
back, maintains his hold till the lacerated and terrified animal
falls and offers a delicious meal to its destroyer.

332 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
Mustela vulgaris, Common Weasel, and M. erminea
Ermine, are both found in various parts of the Californias.
M. uison, The Mink, M. martes, The Martin, Mephitis Ameri
cana, The Skunk, are also inhabitants of this country in com
mon with nearly the whole American Continent.
In many parts wolves are very numerous. Several species
are met with, of which the Lupus Americanus, Common Wolf,
is perhaps the most numerous. The others are L. griseus,
Grey Wolf, L. nubilis, Dusky Wolf, and L. ater, Black Wolf,
with their varieties. The Canis latrans, Prairie Wolf, is also
found here.
The natives have a very miserable, dirty species of cur,
which appears to be about half domesticated, resembles its
parent-stock the wolf, and is quite useless, except to devour
prbvisions and fight flies.
The Canty (vulpes)fulvus, Red Fox, and theCanis cinereo-
argentatus, Grey Fox, are common. These are the only
ascertained species which are met with, and it is probably a
variety of the latter which is described by Douglas as being
plentiful on the Multnomak, and which he absurdly states is
in the habit of climbing trees.
There are probably more than one species of the cat tribe
remaining undescribed by naturalists, in the countries of the
Columbia and Sacramento. This opinion is expressed by
Douglas. The ascertained species are the following : Felis
concolor, the Cougar or Puma, often called " lion" by the in
habitants, a well known and very savage and formidable ani
mal. It is confined mostly to the deep forests, and thickly
wooded sides if the mountains, and preys on deer and other
animals. Felis canadensis, Northern Lynx; FeUs fasciata,
Banded Lynx, or Tiger Cat ; Felis rufa, Red Lynx, comprise
all the described varieties found in the Californias. The latter
is a timid animal, and may easily be captured with the aid of a
dog, and a club or almost any other weapon.
In the Sacramento and San Joaquim rivers, as well as on

=

The Common Wolf.— P. 382.

Tlie Dusky Wolf.— P. 382.

TRAVELS IN THE CAL FOENIAS. 383
many parts of the coast, the Phoca vitellina, Common Hair
Seal, is abundant, and follows the track of the salmon.
Castor Fiber, The Beaver, and Fiber zibethicus, The Musk
Rat, are common in some parts of the country ; and the former
is numerous at the mouths of the Sacramento and San Joaquim
rivers. The beaver is well known to naturalists, for the re
markable skill and industry which it exhibits in the construc
tion of its habitation, and the general sagacity and intelli
gence of its character. For this reason, as well as on account
of the value of its skin as an article of commerce, and the
employment which its capture affords to many enterprising
and bold men, some account of its haunts, and of the means
used in obtaining it for purposes of trade, may not be uninte
resting. Near and about the mouth of the Sacramento, as
before observed, lies a wide extent of low land overflowed by
the tide, and including some hundreds of small islands, cov
ered with an enormous growth of rushes. There is probably
no spot of equal extent on the whole continent of America,
which contains so many of these much sought for animals.
For the last fifteen years the Hudson's Bay Company have
annually sent hither a company of from fifty to one hundred
trappers, who have each year taken from this spot alone from
ive to len thousand of these valuable skins. It is said by
hunters well acquainted with the whole Rocky Mountain
region, that they have never seen anywhere else such large
and fat beavers. On account of the scarcity of the timber of
which their huts are generally constructed, the beavers, like
true philosophers, have here accommodated themselves to
circumstances, and build their habitations of rushes, curiously
and skilfully interwoven. Notwithstanding the immense con
scription drawn from their families by the hunters, their num
bers as yet do not sensibly diminish. The very large size of
the skins obtained from this place, causes their value to be
greatly enhanced. The probable worth of each skin after it
;s prepared by the hunters for exportation, is about three do1

384 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC,
lars ; and reckoning the average number at eight thousand
we may arrive at an approximation to the great importance
of this single locality to the Hudson's Bay Company. The
quality of the fur, however, is hardly so fine as that which is
taken in a more northerly region.
Cervns alces, The Moose, is found in all the woody and
mountainous regions on the Columbia, and is abundant farther
southward, near the coast. This noble animal, the largest,
heaviest, and stateliest, of the deers, is peculiarly worthy of
mention. In size scarcely inferior to the horse, with his huge
palmated horns 'Stretching three feet on each side of his head,
his long legs and racking gait giving a singular and gro
tesque air to all his movements, the moose is perhaps the
most remarkable inhabitant of the country. Over level
ground, and when unimpeded by bushes, or by snow, his
speed is superior to that of the swiftest horse, and the crack
ing of his joints and hoofs can be heard almost as far as his
form can be seen." In fact it is only when a deep snow covers
the ground that the capture of the moose can be well effected.
When this is the case, the expert hunter, with bis snow-shoes
and his dogs, becomes more than a match for the moose,
with all his desperate efforts to escape. A day is generally
selected after a deep fall of snow has been followed by a
slight rain, which forms a crust on the surface. The poor
moose, whose great size and weight are here of the utmost
disadvantage to him, is hindered in his flight by breaking
through the crust, which cuts ana bruises his legs, and sink
ing into the snow, soon becomes exhausted ; while the light
ness of the dogs, and the snow-shoes of the pursuer, bear
them forward in safety, and soon the crack of the unerring
rifle tells that the noble game has met his fate. The tongue
of the moose is considered a great delicacy by the hunters, and
his skin and horns are also of great value. This animal,
when full grown, is from twelve to fourteen hands high? and
weighs from five to nine hundred pounds. Its color is a
dark greyish brown, fading into white or light fawn coloi

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 385
on the belly. The head is large, the eyes peculiarly promi
nent and bright, and the horns; which- are thrown back on
the shoulders when the animal is running, will weigh from
twenty to forty pounds.
i The moose must not be confounded with another species
which*, though it is totally distinct, is yet often called by the
hunters ' grey moose.' This is the Elk proper ; also known
as the stag, red deer, wapiti, &c, the Cervus Canadensis of
naturalists. The elk is an inhabitant of the plains, particu
larly in the valleys of the San Joaquim and other rivers,
where immense herds, sometimes of many thousands, often
congregate. The importance of the elk to the Indians as an
article of food, leads them to adopt many ingenious devices
for his destruction. One of these is interesting. The Indian
has prepared an elk skin, with the head and horns in their
natural condition. After surveying" a herd of his intended
victims, who are quietly feeding on the plain,' he gets stealthily
to their windward side, and after crawling, sometimes on his
hands and knees, to escape their keen observation, as near as
he thinks possible, and if practicable, screening himself
behind a skirt of bushes, he puts on the prepared skin, and
emerges from his hiding-place, with his bow and arrows
under his arm. As soon as he is sufficiently near for his pur
pose, and sometimes the unsuspicious animals will allow him
to approach almost into the centre of the herd, he fits his
arrows to his bow, and fires away right and left, as fast as
the shafts can be discharged, and before the victims have
recovered from their astonishment the plain is strewed with
the wounded and dying.
Another method of taking this animal is by means of
snares, made of a tough kind of grass, which are set on their
places of resort. The elk is considerably less in size than his
gigantic relative the moose, and his figure and general appear
ance are quite different, being much lighter and more slender,
and resembling more nearly the common deer. The legs, like
those of the whole family, are long and slender, the tail short,

3S6 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
the horns long and much branched, the color a decided grey,
often with a mixture of brown.
Several other species of deer are found on the Grand and
Sheetskadee rivers, and in various other parts of California.
The Cervus macrotis, Black-tailed Deer, is a handsome ani
mal. Its size is about that of the common deer. The»color
is blueish grey on the back, and fawn color on the belly. The
ears are curious, being as long as those of an ass, and the tail
is short and black. Another very small and pretty species is
the Cervus leucurus, Long-tailed or Jumping Deer, the chevreuil
of the hunters. This is grey on the back, and pure white on
the belly, and is remarkable for having a tail from twelve to
eighteen inches in length.
Antilope furcifer, The Pronghorn Antelope, is a very
pretty and delicate species. It is not generally abundant,
though in some localities it may be found in considerable num
bers. Its extreme shyness renders its capture a matter of
great difficulty. It presents a very graceful appearance when
bounding up the sides of almost inaccessible rocks ; and the
hungry traveller is often tantalized with beholding it standing
m perfect safety on a far-off cliff, while his utmost endeavors
to get it within range of his rifle are perfectly futile.
Ovis montana, The Mountain Sheep, or Argali, is another
peculiar animal. Its habitation is on the loftiest and coldest
mountains, among the most tremendous and impassable pre
cipices. In general figure it much resembles a large sheep of
the domestic kind, but its horns seem out of all proportion to
its body. These are from two to nearly three feet in length ;
are deeply ribbed, and curve backwards. Their weight on
the male is sometimes thirty pounds. The covering of the
body can scarcely be called wool, being a kind of coarse,
short hair, of a dingy brown color. It is called by the voya-
geurs " Mouton gris," and the flesh, though rather dry, is
very good. The mountain sheep appears to have early
attracted the attention of travellers, and is described by
Padres Piccolo and Salvatierra under the Californian name of

The Bison  P. 387

The Black-tailed Deer.— P. 387.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 387
Taye. The horns of this species are manufactured into spoons
and various other useful articles.
Bos Americanus, The Bison j so well known to western
hunters, and so numerous on the prairies between the Rocky
mountains and the United States, can hardly be considered a
Californian animal. That it once inhabited the country there
can be no doubt, but probably in consequence of the great and
singular change which has converted the interior from a rich
and fertile plain into a desolate waste, the bison has receded,
and is now only to be found, and that in small numbers, on
the extreme eastern and northern border.
Lutra marina, The Sea Otter, and Lutra Brasiliensis, The
Land Otter, are found in many parts of the country. The
former is abundant in most parts of the whole coast, and at
the mouths of the rivers*
Of rats, mice, marmots, and squirrels, there are numerous
species, only one or two of which seem worthy of notice.
The common rat, the black rat, and two or three different
* This is perhaps the most valuable fur-producing animal of the coun
try, and its skin is much sought after by the Russians for the purpose, of
adorning the cloaks and state robes of the nobility. The fur is of a vel
vety brown color on the back, and sprinkled with black and silky hairs,
and the lower parts of the animal are of a rich silvery grey. The sea otter
is from five to six feet in length, and weighs from thirty to forty pounds,
its body being of very slender proportions. The hinder legs are very short,
the tail short, broad, and paddle-shaped. The color varies at different
periods of life ; when very young, the fur is thin and scanty, and the skin'
principally covered with brown hair ; from this period till full grown, the
color is nearly black, with many hairs tipped with white, and the face,
throat, breast, and sometimes the entire belly, are yellowish white, or very
light brown. The fur gradually increases in thickness and length until
the animal attains its growth, when it assumes the rich brown of maturity,
which in extreme age becomes a chestnut, or even a perfect yellow color.
The sea otter lives, sometimes in families of considerable numbers, on
the sea-washed rocks, and mostly in the water. It frequently rises to the
surface, and utters a hoarse snapping bark like that of an angry dog. It
feeds on fish, and brings forth its young in holes dug in the sand. The
skins are worth from $50 to $100 each. The shores of California would
furnish from 20,000 to 30,000 annually.
57

3SS SCENES IN THE FACIE I C.
kinds of mice, are found in great numbers in many places,
and their depredations are sometimes very disagreeable
Pseudostoma bursarium (?) The Pouched Rat, and the Arc-
tomys Beecheyi, Small Marmot, are curious little creatures.
The latter is exceedingly plentiful in the plains near San
Francisco and Monterey. It is a very sprightly animal, some
what larger than the common rat, of a fine brown color, and
constructs its burrows with much skill, carrying in its capa
cious cheek pouches, a store of nuts, corn, and acorns, for its
winter's food. The species of Arctomys are numerous, and
some of them probably undescribed. Of ascertained species
may be mentioned A. ludovicianus, the well-known and very
pretty Prairie marmot, sometimes called Gopher, which how
ever is not found far to the west, and A. monax, the wood-
chuck. Of squirrels, there may be observed Sciurus cine-
reus, the grey, S. niger, the black, S. macroureus, the
great-tailed, besides Pteromys alpinus(?) the flying squirrel,
and a species of Tamias, striped squirrel or dormouse. Of
hares there are several fine species ; one weighing from eight
to twelve pounds, probably Lepus glacialis ; another is L.
Virginianus,the Prairie Hare, and also L. Princeps (?) the Lit
tle Hare, which is only about six inches in length.
Birds. — Worthy of mention among the first of the feathered
family in California, is the Great Vulture, peculiar, probably,
to this country. Let his name be given in full — a lofty and
sonorous one, and well fitting its owner — Sarcoramphos Cali-
fornianus ! Second only to the huge condor of South Ame
rica in size, and closely allied to him in many respeots, this
remarkable bird deserves particular notice. The great vul
ture is met with along the whole Pacific coast from Lower
California, to the most northern boundaries of Oregon and the
Russian possessions. Solitary in its habits, rapacious in its
appetite, enormous in size, and singular in conformation and
appearance, it seems to hold the same position in the scenery
of this country as its celebrated European congener, the
Lammergeyer, in that of the Alps. It builds its nest among

TheGray Squirrel. — Page 388.

The Black Squirrel. — Page 388

The Hying Squirrel. — Page 388.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 389
the woody districts of California, on the tops of the highest
trees, in the most inaccessible parts of the mountain valleys-.
It is very wary and difficult of approach, except while on its
nest, or after a meal, when its whole nature seems to be
changed, and it is so overcome by the inordinate indulgence
of its appetite, that it may be knocked on the head with a
stick. Their food is carrion, and, in common with others of
the vultures, the carcase of a dead horse or other animal be
comes their gathering-place. The great vulture measures,
when full grown and in perfect plumage, about four feet
eight inches in length, from the point of the beak to the end
of the tail, and from nine feet six inches to ten feet from tip
to tip of the wings. The color is an uniform brownish black ;
the bill, and skin of the head and legs, yellow. The quill
feathers are much esteemed by the hunters and boatmen for
making tubes to their pipes.
Cathartes aura, The Turkey Buzzard, so common in the
Southern States, is rather a rare bird in California. Its habits
are well known. As a scavenger it is of great benefit to the
inhabitants of the places which it frequents. A dead hog or
sheep lies only long enough to emit the odor so grateful to
the nostrils of this filthy bird, before it is devoured utterly out
of sight. As far as the observations of the author have ex
tended, it is in California a bird of passage, being only found
there in the autumn and winter.
Cathartes atratus, The Black Vulture, is quite common
in almost every part of the country west of the Rocky Moun
tains. Its habits and general appearance are quite similar to
those of the last mentioned species.
Aquila Chrysaetos, The Golden Eagle, is a noble bird, and
is considered by the Indians as well as the civilized nations,
an emblem of power and bravery. Its plumes are used by
the natives as ornaments, and are attached to their pipes or
calumets, from which circumstance it is called the Calumet
eagle. This species is found on the coast, and in most sections
of the woody and mountainous parts of California. It feeds

390 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
on hares, grouse and other game, and seldom, if ever, catches
fish. Aquila leucocephala, The Bald Eagle. — This well known
bird, the " American Eagle" by pre-eminence, seems hardly
worthy of his place as the emblem of the United States.
Though in appearance, in elegance and strength of figure, in
rapidity of flight, and keenness of vision, he is inferior to none
of his race, the truth compels the confession that his private
character is tinctured with some unworthy vices. His appe
tite is dreadfully voracious, and when it cannot be otherwise
satisfied, he contents himself with attacking the vultures, and
devouring the disgusting contents of their maws, after Com
pelling them to disgorge by repeated blows on their backs.
He is also a complete pirate in his warfare with the honest
fish-hawk, often forcing the latter, by dint of superior size and
strength, to give up his well earned, long watched for, and
skilfully secured prey of fish, which he devours with great
zest. He is a very expert fisher himself, however, and the
weight of his victim is sometimes really surprising. The
haunts of this eagle are about streams which contain its
favorite food, where it may often be seen perched on the over
hanging limb of a dead tree, keeping vigilant watch on the
water below, and along the coast, near the mouths of creeks
and inlets of the sea. The voice is a shrill scream or whistle
which may be heard at a great distance. The young are
generally from two to four in number, and they remain a long
time in the nest. Great confusion has been produced in
nomenclature by the frequent mistakes arising from the variety
of color in this bird, a variety which seems to depend solely
upon age. The first plumage is of a brownish black color,
which in the ensuing summer becomes a dark and speckled
grey, and it is not till the third year that it assumes the pure
and brilliant white of the head and neck, which has given it
the epithet of " Bald," and the deep black of the rest of the
body. The bald eagle is about three feet in length, and

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 391
seven in extent. The wings and claws are extremely vigor
ous and powerful.
Aquila Haliaeta, The Osprey or Fish Hawk, inhabits the
coast, arid many of the interior waters of this country. This
bold and active fisher has been so well described by natural
ists, as to make any extended notice here superfluous, though
his admirable traits of character, his perseverance, patience,
and skill in his occupation as an angler, forbid us to entirely
omit speaking of him. Almost every one who has visited the
Atlantic coast, from Maine to Georgia, is acquainted with this
bird, and has observed his well contested quarrels with the
bald eagle.
Falco peregrinus, The Black Hawk or Peregrine Falcon, is
found in some parts, particularly the northern, where he is
probably only a summer visitor. This hawk, as well as many
other species, is called " little eagle" by the Indians.
Falco lslandicus, The Jer-Falcon, is an elegant and bold
bird, probably the most beautiful of the tribe. He inhabits
the northern cOast, and is properly confined to the frozen re
gions, though individuals are by no means rare in Upper Cali
fornia. The color of this bird is nearly white, with small
brown spots on the back and rump. Some specimens are met
with whose color is purely and entirely white. It preys on
plover, geese and ducks, which it strikes while on the wing
with great vigor. It is an exceedingly strong winged and
powerful bird, and measures about thirty inches in length, by
four feet six inches in extent.
Several other of the Falcons of lesser note are found here;
among these may be mentioned the Falco sparvenus, Sparrow
Hawk, well known all over North America, the Falco co-
lumbarius, Pigeon Hawk, and the beautiful Accipiter plum
barius, Gos Hawk, identical with the European species, so
celebrated for its uSe in the noble sport of falconry.
Of the Owls there are several species. The Strix Virgi*
liana, Great Horned Owl, often alarms the benighted traveller
with its discordant hootings. It is somewhat different from its
58

392 SCENES IN TKE PACIFIC.
brethren of the same species in the States ; the color being a
deeper and brighter brown. The Strix nyctaea, Great Snow
Owl, is well known as an inhabitant of almost all the
northern parts of America. It preys on rats, birds and hares,
and is a very dexterous fisher. The Indians, and even the
white residents, sometimes eat it, and indeed its flesh is very
white and palatable. Several other owls inhabit this country,
among which must be mentioned the little Strix cunicidaria,
which seems to reverse the habits of its family, by living in the
burrows of the prairie marmot. They may be seen in great
numbers just at the close of evening, sitting at the mouths of
their holes on the sandy plains.
Lanius borealis, The Northern Shrike ; several species of
Tyrannus and Tyrannula, Fly-catchers ; Merula migratoria,
The Robin ; Orpheus felivox, The Cat-bird ; Orpheus rufus,
The Brown Thrush ; several Sylvicolce ; Alauda, The Lark,
one or two species ; Emberiza nivalis, The Snow Bunting ;
Icterus phceniceus, The Redwing, are found in various parts of
the Californias as well as in the United States.
Loxia leucoptera, The Cross-bill, is found all over the
country in the pine forests, and displays great dexterity in
picking out with its curiously constructed bill the seeds of the
pine cones, which are its principal food.
Corvus corax, The Raven, is numerous in many parts of
the Californias, and differs not at all in plumage and habits
from its brethren in the United States Corvus corone, The
Crow, is also found in great numbers.
Corvus pica, The Magpie, much resembles in general ap
pearance the European species, from which it differs in size,
being considerably larger, and its colors are rather deeper
and more brilliant. It is a bold and saucy bird, living upon
various kinds of reptiles and even small birds, is fond of car
rion of all sorts, and has often the impudence to visit the
camp of the hunter and carry off his meat.
Garrulus cristatus, The Common Blue Jay, and another
smaller specie, probably G. Stelleri, are quite common. The

The Ruffed Grouse.— 392.

The Wild Goose.— Page 392.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 393
latter sometimes congregate in flocks of considerable r umber,
and are tame and familiar, coming freely into the villages in
search of food.
Colaptes Mexicanus, a very pretty Woodpecker, is found
in Upper California, and all along the Pacific coast, and is,
with the exception of an occasional individual of the golden-
winged species, Picus auratus, the only woodpecker which
the author has observed, except a species at Monterey, which
is probably not yet described.
In some parts of California, particularly in the South, the
beautiful Humming Bird is quite numerous. As far as the
author's notice has extended, the species are but two, the
Trochilus colubris, Common Humming Bird, well known to
every one in the United States, and a still more elegant spe
cies, T. rufus, which seems to inhabit almost the whole
country, from Nootka Sound to the Rio del Norte in Mexico
This delicate and splendid little creature is somewhat less in
size than the common species, and is perhaps the most per
fect gem in nature. When seen glancing through the leaves,
it resembles the flash of a large ruby.
Swallows are abundant, and of several species, among
which may be mentioned Hirundo Americana, the Common
Barn Swallow, H. lunifrons, the Cliff Swallow, and the
H. riparia, Bank Swallow or Sand Martin.
Caprimvlgus Virginianus, The Night Hawk, often alarms
the wearied traveller, near nightfall, by swooping down, and
uttering in his ear its odd and startling note. Alcedo Alcyoh,
The Kingfisher, is seen flitting over every little stream and
water-course in search of his scaly prey, and seems to be a
component feature in the scenery of every rapid and waterfall.
There is probably no country in the world which produces
so many varieties of the Grouse, or in so great numbers.
The heart of a Yankee sportsman would almost burst with
delight at the success of a day's shooting in some parts of
the interior of California. Tetrao urophasianus, The Great
Cock of the Plains, second only in size and beauty to the

394 scenes in the pacific.
celebrated cock of the woods of the north of Europe, is very
plentiful in North California, as well as in the regions watered
by the Columbia river. This noble bird generally makes his
residence in the barren plain, among low bushes and brush
wood, under which it runs and lurks ; and is flushed with some
difficulty, generally taking wing near enough to the shooter to
afford him a fair mark. The cock of the plains is about thirty
inches in length, and nearly four feet in extent, and weighs from
seven to ten pounds. The flesh is very fine and delicate.
The color is a bright grey, varied with small brown spots on
the back and wings. Another fine species is the T. ob-
scurus, Dusky Grouse, a very handsome bird, though much
less in size than the preceding, and which, together with the
T. rupestris, Rock Grouse, inhabits the mountainous regions
of the North. T. umbellus, The Ruffed Grouse, or Pheasant
of the Southern States, and the T. leucurus, White-tailed
Grouse, are common in different places. I have never met
with either the T. phasianellus, Pintail Grouse, or the T.
Franklinii, which are probably confined to the more remote
regions of the North.
The bays, inlets, and rivers, are well stocked with different
species of water birds, and the low lands near the outlets of
some of the streams on the Pacific coast actually swarm with
geese, ducks, widgeon, teal, cranes, curlews, snipes, and va
rious other waders and swimmers. Of this class of birds, the
infinite variety forbids mention but of a few individuals. The
Tringa, Sand Piper, the Charadrius, Plover, the Nitmeri-
nus, Curlew, the Totanus, Tatler, the Limosa, Godwit, the
Scolopax, Snipe, the Phalarope, the Larus, Gull ; of each
several species, and in immense numbers, throng the shores.
Cygnus buccinator, The Swan, is the largest bird of the
country, and seems to differ in nothing from the same species
elsewhere. Its color is pure white, except that of the bill
and legs, which is black, and of the forehead, which is a fine
orange. This is a splendid and powerful bird. They arrive

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 395
from the far north in the spring, generally as early as April,
and return in October or November.
A smaller species of swan frequents the same locality. It
resembles the last mentioned, except in size, being consider
ably smaller, and in its note, which is quite different. This
may be the C. Bewickii. Douglas speaks of a third variety
found near the Columbia, and which he describes as equal in
size to the common swan, of a bluish grey on the back and
white on the belly, and he. states that this color is " preserved
in all stages of its growth." This is probably a mistake.
That individuals answering this description are found, there is
no doubt, but they seem to be the young of the first-mentioned
species. Geese are abundant in similar places, and their term of
residence in the country, and of migration, appears to be the
same with those of the swan. The species which have come
under the author's observation are the Anser albifrons,
Laughing Goose, A. Canadensis, The common Wild Goose,
A. hyperboreus, The Snow Goose, and A. bernacla, The Brant
Pelicanus onocrotalus, The White Pelican, is sometimes
seen in various places on the coast. A flock of these birds,
standing in a line on the very verge of the sandy shore, is a
fine sight ; their pure white color and lofty stature making
them visible at a great distance. The peculiar habits of the
pelican have-often been described, and nothing new can be
added as having come under the special observation of the
author. Large numbers frequent the harbors, and resort much
to the little island of Alcatrasses, which is covered with their
exuviae. Off the Pacific coast may be seen the huge Albatross, so
well known to seamen, on almost all parts of the deep.
These can often be taken by throwing a hook over the side
of the vessel, baited with a piece of pork or other meat.
Their voracity is so excessive that they will quarrel for pos
session of the prize which costs its unfortunate captor so
dear. There are two species, Diomedea exulans and fuli-
59

396 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
ginosa. Specimens are sometimes seen of most enormous
size, measuring nearly four feet in length, and from ten to
twelve across the wings.
There are probably many yet undescribed birds and qua
drupeds in this country. The author's sketches in this depart
ment are necessarily rather those of a traveller than a natu
ralist, and he has been obliged to content himself with men
tioning tliose species which casually came within his own
notice. It is very probaole that many inaccuracies may be
detected both in his nomenclature and descriptions, but these
may be excused by the circumstances under which his notes
were taken, his lack of books of reference, and his imperfect
acquaintance with the Science of Zoology. The foregoing
Outlines of the Natural History of the Californias must there
fore be considered as possessing little pretension to the notice
of the scientific student, but only as a part of the general
plan of the author, in giving a brief account of the most
striking objects which offered themselves directly to his
observation, and as being intended merely for the eye of the
general reader. Indeed it would be an useless as well as a
presumptuous task, to attempt in a book of this kind an
elaborate description of the natural productions of the Cali
fornias ; and the more so in regard to one portion at least of
those productions, since the announcement of the intended
issue of a work which, for the elegance and costliness of its
design, the skill and research displayed in its contents, and the
well-earned celebrity of its principal author, will probably be
unsurpassed by any similar undertaking. " The Viviparous
Quadrupeds of North America," now in course of publication,
will undoubtedly add a crowning laurel to the already well-
adorned brow of John J. Audubon.
Fish. — There are perhaps no waters in the world so produc
tive of fish as those of the Californias, and of the regions still
farther to the north. Immense numbers, and every variety of
sea fish swarm in the Pacific coast, and the rivers are densely
populated with several valuable species.

The Salmon.— Page 396.

The Turbot.— Page 396.

The Skate.— Page 396.

The Bonito.— Page 396.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 397
The Californian Gulf produces also great numbers of edible
shell-fish. The oyster, the pearl shell, an account of the
fishery for which has been heretofore given ; the muscle,
several species of haliotis, all afford either food or articles of
trade and ornament to the inhabitants. In Upper California
fish are generally little sought after, the productions of the
earth being so numerous and plentiful; but in the colder
regions of the north, they afford the common, and sometimes
the sole subsistence of the natives. In the Columbia, as well
as in the San Joaquim and Sacramento rivers, and in almost
every water course having its outlet in the sea, the numbers of
Salmo (Schouleri), Salmon, are almost incredible. On some of
these rivers from two to three thousand are sometimes taken
in a single day. The Indians capture them with a kind of
wicker basket, similar to that used by the fishermen on the
Atlantic coast for taking lobsters. This is done in the spring
when the fish are on their passage up the stream. They are
also taken with the spear, which consists of a sharp piece of
bone fastened to the end of a shaft of wood twelve or fifteen
feet in length, and which the Indians use with great dexterity,
frequently securing salmon of from twenty to thirty pounds in
weight. The fish are dried or salted, and preserved for future
use. They are also sometimes taken with only a small scoop
net fastened to the end of a pole. Douglas speaks of an indi
vidual measured by him which was three feet five inches long, '
and ten inches broad, weighing thirty-five pounds. The author
can vouch for the fact that this size is not exaggerated, hav
ing often seen specimens nearly or quite as large. Some of
the streams also abound with very fine salmon trout, and with
a small trout nearly resembling the one which affords so much
sport to the anglers of the United States.
Accipenser transmontanus, The Sturgeon, sometimes attains
great size in the large rivers, being from eight to ten feet in
length, and weighing nearly 500 pounds. In general, how
ever, this fish is of much smaller dimensions. It is principally
found not far from the mouths of the rivers.

398 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
In the bay of Monterey is a species of Mackerel, Scom
ber colias, in grsat plenty and easily taken. Here, as
Well as in most other parts of the coast,, also swim schools of
a small fish resembling, if not identical with, the Sardine of
Italy, familiar to epicures. These are sometimes seen in
such immense numbers that the surface of the water, for a
great distance around, resembles a living mass, being kept in
constant commotion by their fins. Porpoises are very nume
rous in almost every bay on the whole coast, and in foul
weather may always be seen playing their pranks on the
waves ; while far in the offing appears the spouting of the
huge whale.
The halibut, pilchard, skate, turbot, bonito, and many other
species, are found in various parts of the sea-coast. The
shell-fish are numerous and valuable, particularly in the Gulf.
Of these may be mentioned, Oysters, which are often of large
size and excellent flavor, muscles, several species of haliotis,
patella, cardium, and turbo, besides Mya margaritifera, the
Pearl Oyster, the product of which as an article of commerce
is well known. The pearls produced by these shell-fish are,
in this country, of very fine water, though rather irregular in
figure. The manner of taking this valuable article of trade
has been fully described on a former page.
Plants. — The Californias offer a very interesting and but
partially explored field of research to the botanist. Almost
every variety of vegetation, from the luxuriant productions of
the tropics to the stinted and scanty growth of the frozen
regions, may be found in this country. The labors of Douglas
and others have made known to the world many of the most
valuable and remarkable species. Of these it is possible here
to mention only a few. Of the Pine and Oak there are seve
ral noble and useful varieties in different parts of the country.
One of these, Pinus Douglasii, first described by Douglas, is
probably the grandest of the whole vegetable kingdom. It is
found on the mountains about the Bay of San Francisco, on
the highlands near the upper branches of the Colorado river »

The Whale.— Page 398.

The Porpoise. — Page 398.

The Sturgeon. — Page 398.

White Oak.— Page 400.

Xt»e Oaft.^-Page 400.

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 399
and in some other sections of Upper California, generally on
elevated localities. My readers must not think of Baron
Munchausen, when I offer to vouch for the fact that specimens
of this tree occur of the height of two hundred and forty feet,
the base of whose trunks have a circumference of nearly sixty
feet. The trunk is quite destitute of branches until above
more than half the altitude, when they grow outward and up
ward in such a manner as to give the top the form of an
inverted pyramid. From the ends of the branches hang the
cones or seed-vessels, from twelve to fifteen inches in length,
and egg-shaped. The seeds are as large as a good-sized
bean, and furnish a common article of food to the Indians,
who collect large quantities of them in the autumn, and pound
them into a kind of cake, which is baked on heated stones.
The wood is very fine-grained, and contains a great quantity
of resin.
The Pinus Sabinii, P. Lambertiana, P. nobilis, and P
resinosa, are also fine species, though less in size than their
gigantic relative. The former is, however, a large tree, being
often found one hundred and ten feet high, and from ten to
twelve in diameter. Among the elevated plains of Upper
California it grows quite plentifully, as also on the low hills,
near the coast, where it attains a larger size. The natives
frequently build their fires against these trees to save the
trouble of collecting fuel. By this means, also, a sweet
gum is made to exude from the trunk, which serves +hem for
sugar. The White Oak grows on the low and level parts of the
country. It is not generally a large tree, being from forty to
fifty feet high, and from two to three feet in diameter at the
base. The top is extremely thick and leafy, forming an
almost impenetrable mass of boughs. It is in some places
very abundant.
The Quercus navalis occupies the prairies, river banks, and
lower hills, and is four or five feet in diameter, with branches
of corresponding dimensions extending horizontally from the

400 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
trunk. The Live Oak, Q. virens, grows only on the high
lands. It is from two to five feet in thickness, and from sixty
to seventy in height. The Maple, the Ash, the Beech, the
Chestnut, in several varieties, compose large portions of the
forests. It is impossible to give a full description of the flower
ing shrubs and plants of Upper California, so great is
their variety and beauty. We have only space to notice a
few of the most conspicuous. A species of Raspberry, Ribes
speciosum, is one of the most elegant flowering shrubs of the
country. It is exceedingly abundant in some localities, and,
with its long crimson stamens and its deep green leaves,
presents, an appearance truly lovely. The flowers bloom
early in spring. The fruit I have not seen. In many places
are found several species of Mimulus, one of which is from
three to four feet in height, and is a very showy plant. This
country also has numerous species of Phlox and Heuckera,
and innumerable quantities of Epilobium, Enothera or Prim
rose, Pmtstemon, Papaver or Poppy, Delphinium, and Salvia.
A species of lily also grows here, the roots of which are
eaten by the natives. The Scilla esculcnta grows alor>£ the
whole coast of Upper California. This is called by the na
tives " Quo-mash," and the root forms a very common article
of food. To prepare this for eating, a hole is made in the
ground, and a number of stones placed in it, on which a fire
is kindled, and kept burning until they are made hot, when
the fire is extinguished, and the roots wrapped in straw,
leaves and moss, are placed upon them. They are well
roasted in a few hours ; and are then taken off and hung up
to dry. This root is also sometimes pounded and made into
cakes, which are preserved for future use. The taste if sweet,
and rather agreeable ; but if eaten too freely, they are apt to
produce diarrhoea. This plant is most abundant on the banks
of rivers and. on lowlands by the margins of forests; in which
localities are also found several species ofPyrola, Caprifolium,

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 401
and Lupinus, which sometimes cover an immense extent of
land. The Arbutus is also abundant in similar situations.
The large species, A. procera, is a fine shrub, frequently at
taining a growth which entitles it to be called a tree. The
A. uva ursi is found in almost every part of the colder sec
tions of the country, and its berries are frequently eaten by
the natives, and even by travellers. A very useful plant to
the natives is the Helonias tenax, the fibres of which are
stronger than any hemp. Cords made of this are used by the
Indians for the purpose of snaring deer and other animals;
and one the thickness of the little finger is so strong as not
to be broken by the largest elk.
The Gooseberry grows in Upper California, and bears plen
tifully. The sand-hills and moors are covered with a great
variety of Syngenesious plants, and on the more fertile and
humid soil grows a gaudy-flowered Qurrant-bush and a pretty
species of Honeysuckle. Perhaps the most remarkable shrub
here ,is the Yedra, a poisonous plant, which, however, affects
some particular constitutions only. By contact with the skin,
it produces tumors and violent inflammation. It is a slender
shrub, preferring cool and shady places, and bearing a trefoil
crenated leaf. Two roots — the plants of which I have not
seen — are used by the natives for soap : these are called
Amole and Samate. On the rocky coast south of Monterey.
are immense collections of sea-weed — Fucus pyrifornis —
which are said to have gathered there in such abundance, as
to have saved several vessels from splitting on the rocks, when
driven on them by the tempest.
Minerals. — The mineral wealth of the Californias has
not been examined by persons capable of forming a correct
idea of its nature and extent. The imperfect observations of
travellers, embellished by the eager love of the precious
metals, are not to be relied on. Some facts, however, exist,
which, having been well and often observed, may be men
tioned.

402 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
A very fine article of bituminous coal has been discovered
in the. neighborhood of San Francisco; and indications of its
existence in other parts of the country, are numerous and
well marked.
A quicksilver mine is said to exist near the mountains east
of Monterey, which, if we may believe report, is the richest
in the world.
A silver mine has been discovered a short distance from Mon
terey. This affords a very rich ore, and easily wrought. The
author saw spoons and other articles made of the products of
this mine. There is a gold mine situate near the Pueblo de
los Angelos, which is very rich. The ore was tested by my
friend Doctor Lyman, and was found to yield more than
ninety per cent. The inhabitants have observed very exten
sive veins of gold in the vicinity of the bay of San Francisco,
and indeed in many other parts of this beautiful land. Irt
Lower California, there are several mines, which the people
are working in a rude way, but with considerable profit.
Virgin silver and gold are often found in considerable quanti
ties. No doubt is entertained by those best acquainted with
the Californias, that they will become, when science shall be
applied in the development of their wealth, one of the richest
mineral provinces of America. This belief ¦= much strength
ened by the fact, that the Indians, whenever they choose, can
bring into the settlements large quantities of these ores, which
flbey either find on the surface, or pry from the crevices of the
rocks with sharpened sticks, bones, or hunting knives. They
cancot be induced to show the whites where they obtain
these, on account of an old traditional superstition, that if
they should do so, they would immediately die.
Down the Coast. — On the fifth of May, 1840, we made
our adieus to our acquaintance in Santa Barbara, preparatory
to falling down the coast. The American visited the sick
Englishman, found him breathing faintly, and apparently very
near death. But it was necessary to embark,,- and leave the
dying man in the kind care of his nurses, who, I have no

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 403
rfoubt, administered to his last want, and made his grave-dress
wi*h willing hands. "Dead — starved to death ! Death of a
Briton from thirst and starvation, by direction of Juan Bap
tista Alvarado, Governor of Upper California," Is the account
which truth will give, on earth and at the judgment, rA this
man's death.
At twelve o'clock, the lusty fellows at the windlass had t-he
anchor on the bow, and our good old ship was bearing down
the coast under a f.rie northerly breeze. She, or rather he,
for I bel'iive ail Dons are males, and particularly Don Quix
otes, being in ballast, ran rapidly, cheeringly," and exultingly
over the quiet sea. And right glad were we to be under
weigh. We had been long enough among the jolly birds
and flowering meadows of California, to rejoice to be again
at sea. It was sad, however, to be borne away from the
prisons and the moans of our fellow-countrymen. And now
the deep blue sea — its mermaid song — its anthems of sub
limity- — its glories and beauties; really and in truth, what are
they 1 What man in his senses loves the Ocean 1 The mer
maids are all porpoises, and their songs all grunts ! The
deep sounds of the ocean's pealing organ, are the rude groans
of the winds and the dashing rage of far-rolling surges, rap
ping madly at the bows ! The tufts of dancing foam on the
bitter wastes — desert, heaving, unsvmpathizing, cold, home
less ! Love of Ocean ! ! Poetry of Ocean ! ! It is a pity I
cannot love it — see in its deep still lower realm, or in its
lonely tumults, or its surface when the air is still, its heat,
thirst and death, its vast palpitating tomb, the shady hand
and veiled smile of loveliness i — that I cannot believe Old
Ocean has a heart, which sends its kindly beatings up and
down all the shores of earth ! Poetry ! Loveliness ! They
may be there ; but Ocean's odor and mien are not poetry to
me ! If I have ever said anything to the contrary, I beg the
pardon of the sea poets. Thereris, however, a certain class
of beings who hold a very different opinion : these, are the
regular old Salts ; men who from boyhood have slept in the

404 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
forecastle, eaten at the windlass, sung at the halyards, danced
on the yards to the music of the tempest, and hailed the tu
mult of the seas as a frolic in which they had a joyful part.
We respect these poets. Indeed, the Ocean to them is a
world, the theatre of their being ; and by inhabiting it all
their days, these singular men become changed from partici
pants in the delights of natural ¦ life on land, to creatures of
memory. Memory ! that mental action which sifts the past
of its bitterest evils, and gives only the blossom and the fruit
to after-time. These they enjoy in the midnight watch, at the
dawn, in the storm, the calm, and in visions of sleep ; but for
ever upon the deep, on the great expanse of the Sea ! Is it
wonderful, then, that they should love it 1 that their affections
become poetry ? See thera seated at their meal before the
mast; their wide pants lap over their sprawled limbs; the
red flannel shirt peers out at the wrists, and blazes over their
broad chests between the ample dimensions of the heavy pea-
jacket ; and crowning all is the tarpaulin with its streaming
band, cocked on one side of the head ; and grouped in the
most approved style of a thoroughly lazy independence, they
eat their meal. At such times, if the weather be fine, stud
ding-sails out, and top-gallants pulling, they speak of the
ship as a lady, well decked, and of beautiful bearing, glidinw
like a nymph through the gurgling waters. If the breeze be
strong, and drives her down on her beams, they speak of her
as bowing to her Lord and Master, while she uses his might
to bear her on to her own purposes. And if the tempest
weighs on the sea, and the fierce winds howl down upon her
dead ahead, and the storm-sail displays over the fore-chains
its three-sided form, and the ship lays up to the raging ele
ments, breasting every swoop of wave and blast, she still is a
lady, coming forth from her empire of dependent loveliness
to bow before an irresistible force, only to rise again, and
present ,the sceptre of Hope to dismayed man. These Salts
believe in the poetry of the sea, and of the noble structures in

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 406
which they traverse its pathless immensity. And it may be
that they are right, and I am wrong.
During the day we passed near to the coast. A fruitful
strip of land running along the shore ; broken by hills in*
creasing in height from the water-side towards the interior^
and bounded by high mountains partially covered with trees,
but generally burnt and barren, is a true showing of that
part of California. It was a bright day, with a cool whole
some air. Every sail was out and filled, as white as snow,
the wind on the larboard quarter, the crew lounging, and the
dolphins chasing, and the gulls screaming, and the spray
dashing at the bows. Home, and the mother of my buried
boy, if I may speak of myself, the heart's guiding star on
those wastes of soul and of nature, were drawing near me,
and in thought were there. Speed on, noble ship, speed on ;
it is the illusion of happy memories, speed on !
On the sixth and seventh the breeze continued favorable.
The coast was generally in sight, arid appeared to be more
and more barren as we followed it down !
On the eighth we sailed along the east side of Guadeloupe.
This island is about thirty miles in circumference, somewhat
mountainous, evidently of volcanic origin, surrounded by im
mense reefs of black rocks, and destitute of coral formations.
There are two places of access, the one on the southwest, the
other on the northwest side. It has no harbor for anything else
than small boats; and though containing considerable quantities
of arable land, is uninhabited except by sea birds, turtles and
goats. The latter are the offspring of a few of these animals
landed upon it by the early Spanish navigators. They have
been in unmolested possession of the island for the last eighty
years, and are now so very numerous, that they could be profita
bly hunted for their skins and tallow. In former times this island
used to abound in sea elephants and hair seal ; but the Ame
rican hunters and whalers have nearly destroyed them. As
we passed, a right whale spouted near the ,shore. The cir-

406 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
eumstance electrified Tom, and opened his word loom to the
following yarn.
" The lubber, that whale ! I would like to be in the bow
of a staunch boat, with four stout oarsmen, and a bold fellow
to steer upon him ; I would soon make him spout blood in
stead of water !
' I was telling you the yarn qf my becoming a sailor, when
the old man coiled up my thoughts among the halyards.
Now that whale brings them back again, and while he is
taking his observation, and blowing his nose, I'll finish my yarn.
I was about nineteen when I blundered against the capstan
of a whaler, and shipped at New Bedford for a three years'
'cruise. We left port with as good an outfit of harpoons, lines,
knives, trying-pans, stores, and ship's crew as ever swam the
-brine. I remember we bad a studclin-sail breeze a longer
time on our passage out, than I ever saw before or since, ex
cept in the trades. We put out all sail in sight of the New
Bedford Light, and never took in a rag until we had crossed
the equator ; and then we struck a dead calm, which conti
nued fifteen days. That was the worst siege at oakum and
spun yarn that Tom ever saw. The sun seemed to pour
down fire ! It was so warm that the tar in the deck fried
and bubbled : and the old long boat shrunk so much that you
could stick your thumb through between the planks; and the
d^cks were so hot that we were obliged to keep them con
stantly wet to enable us to stand on them. And as to breath
ing, we found that the hardest work of all. The great
atmosphere seemed to have escaped, and left a perfect void !
The ocean was smooth ; not a rough spot upon it as big as a
cent, except when the cook threw his slush overboard ! It
lay and rolled like a bending sea of glass ! The vessel, with
its sails hanging loose on the mast, rose and fell on it like a
sheet upon the breast of the dying. The sky was awfully
bare and deserted ! Not a shred of a cloud dotted it for fif
teen days ! I never felt lonesome till that time. I had rather
lay to under storm sail a twelvemonth, than be compelled to

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIA?. 407
pick oakum and make spun yarn, and think through a calm
like that. Well, at the end of fifteen days, just as the sun
set, a little cloud about as large as John's tarpaulin, scud up
in the nor'west, like an angel of mercy to tell us there was
wind once more in the heavens ; and about eight o'cloek the
old ocean began to stir ; the air struck our parched bodies,
and the sails flapped, the vessel moved, and we began to feel
that we were climbing out of a great hot grave ; I never shall
forget that calm.
" Well, we had light breezes till we got off Montevideo,
when a stiff norther came on, which bore us on under double-
reefed topsails down to the Cape. Here it came on to blow
a gale, and we were obliged to run into Magellan, and lay
to under the lee of the highlands. After lying there two
days, the wind chopped round northeast, and the old man
thought we might as well run through the Straits. But the
gale was renewed, and rushed overland upon us with such
fury that we could carry for a number of days, only sail
enough to make the ship lay her course. At last we hove in
sight of the Pacific, and run afoul one of those villainous head
winds which you know often set into the west end of the
Straits. This detained us nine days. * At the end of this time,
it hauled into the northeast, and enabled us to get into the
open sea. Our course from the Straits was NW. But the
wind again chopped round dead ahead ; consequently all we
could do was to try to hold our own. We accordingly beat
off and on, and lay to twelve days, when we found we must
up helm and let her run. The gale was awful ; and as we
advanced south, the raggedness of the sea was continually
more and more frightful ; the cold became intense ; the water
froze upon the deck six inches deep ; and the spars, and masts,
and rigging were covered with ice to such an extent, that the
ship swayed under the gale, and was likely to swamp ; the
most like a death-call from the mermaids that Tom ever saw,
was that gale. The ship lurching her spars into the waves,
the sailors slipping, the rigging stiff, and the only sail set,

408 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
covered with ice several inches thick ; the masts like vast
icicles, and the old man and every man expecting every mo
ment to go down ! After drifting, however, as far as 70°
South, the gale abated, the wind changed, We cut away the
studding-sail, rigged another, and stood away for the north,
and in a few days got rid of our ice and other troubles. We
now took our course for New Zealand, and about 300 miles
east of that island fell in with the whales. I thought of, as
we"  . " Bear a hand there, you lubbers." " Aye, aye, sir."
" Bring Out the old trysail, and run your yarns into that."
" Aye, aye, sir." And thus was Tom's yarn again severed,
much to his chagrin, and my regret ; for I longed to hear a
whalesman's account of his bold and dangerous calling.
On the 10th of May we came in sight of Cape Saa Lucas,
bearing thirty miles SE. It was about five o'clock, P. M.
The wind had been dying aw&y since noon, and now barely
kept the ship moving. The western portion of the sea was
all light and glorious ; it lay panting, as a wearied giant just
returned from the field of conflict. The sun, as he fell stea
dily down the great arc of heaven, was reflected more and
more widely and intensely, until his reddest rays shot through
the clear tops of the billows, and scattered a purple drapery
of clouds sprinkled with gold up half the western sky. Gay-
plumaged land birds gathered on the rigging, and twittered
and sang to the approaching twilight. The land was eight
miles from us ; a rough red waste of mountains ! those holy
desolations where the Indians' God made his descent to bless
them, their streams, their fruits, and give elasticity to their
bows. Sturdy scenes ! rocks on rocks, gloom on gloom, sand
on sand, and dearth feeding dearth, and universal thirst prey
ing on animal and herb.1 The living things in the sea fro
licked around us. The dolphin, the bonitos, the flying fish,
the porpoise, the right whale, were all employing their
muscles in their own way among the sleeping waters ; and
about the sides of the almost motionless vessel swarmed shoals
of bright and active little fish that seemed to beseech us for

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 409
protection and food. As the sun's disc sank below the hori
zon, and he withdrew his last rays from the mists of the sea,
and left the stars to their own twinkling, the mellow clear
blue of a tropical sky came out over us ; such a sky as hangs
over Athens and the Egean tides and islands. This was re
flected back from the waves, on which the stars danced and
flickered, were extinguished and lighted up again, as swell
after swell approached the ship, and rocked, as does the
heart of the mother the child slumbering on her breast. The
moon was in the first quarter, rounding to the full. And I
remember never to have felt so strong a sympathy with it as
on that glorious night. If dreams come when reason sleeps,
and recollection serves only to feed the affections, and deepen
the musings of the imagination and associating powers, I cer
tainly dreamed with eyes on the moon and stars and the sea
of that night. The day had gone ; it was night ; the stars
were out, and the sea was dancing to the music of the far
distant and ceased tempest, and the moon had come over my
home, was shining through its windows upon the table at
which we ate, on the chairs in which we sat, on the walls
that had witnessed the high and unmarred pleasures of the
domestic affections. It was lighting up the altar of my holiest
hopes, and crowding upon it every gem of joy which had
shone on the path of the past ! A bird chirped among the
rigging a note which resembled one that had gladdened even
ing walks, and often died in the ear as in the opening spring
sleep was gathering us to rest ; and that chosen star, that con
secrated star, that star on which we hung our vows at parting,
was looking down upon me ! I walked forward among the
watch, who were loitering about the forecastle in silence.
" A fine night this, sir," said one of them, " a fine night, sir.
This weather reminds one of our New England Indian sum
mers, when I used to go out of an evening to a country dance,
and throw clubs into the trees to get the finest apples for the
neighboring girls. I recollect that I 'lost my heart on just
6uch a night as this, when about twelve years old ! I wen*

410 scenes' in the pacific.
over to neighbor Parker's to invite them to a husking, and
the old gentleman insisted, after I had done my errand, that
I should stay awhile and help John shell a grist of yellow
corn ; /or he wanted to go to mill at sunrise next morning.
So down I sat on a little wooden bench at one end of the
warming-pan handle, which was put through the ears of a
wash-tub, and shelled away bravely. But all the time I was
at work, Rachel was pulling my ears, and throwing kernels
of corn at me, and showing her white teeth and sweet lips
and eyes around me, until my ears and cheeks burnt, my eyes
were swimming with love, and my head and heart felt so
mixed up together that they have never got unravelled since."
Another one said that these yarns about love were always
coming up around the windlass, and he hoped they would be
hauled in, and stowed away soon, for it was quite. enough to
remember one's girl and poor old mother thousands of miles
away when obliged to ; and that this way of bringing them
into every watch, and harrowing up one's feelings, was worse
than being strung up at the yardarm every twelve hours : as
he said this, he turned away, and wiped his moist cheek on the
sleeve of his pea-jacket.
On the 11th, we lay along the Cape. The contour of
the land was distinctly visible. The mountains rise in arid
grandeur, rough volcanic cinders, red and desolate. They
are curiously piled. Huge" mountains sprout from the main
masses, and hang over wooded jungles a thousand feet below.
Turrets rise on turrets like giant castles of an olden land
They are an irregular, unstratified, ugly, desolate confusion
of rocks and dust. On the 12th, we lay six miles SE. of the
point of the Cape. We had a fine view of both shores of
the Gulf of California for fifty miles. The scenery was ex
tremely interesting. The eastern Cape shore was much like
the western. The eastern shore of the Gulf, the edge of the
Mexican main, was sublime. Not so much so on account of
its massiveness or its altitude, as its resemblance to a conti-

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 411
neut of continuous cities, interspersed with groves. The
general aspect was dreary.
On the 13th, a light breeze from the south bore us along
about three knots the hour. The Gulf shores opened, wider
as we advanced. High mountains rose on the main in the NE.
The coasts of the Gulf are Said to be mountainous up to the
mouth of the Colorado of the West.
• In the evening the mountains on the Mexican side were
lighted up with immense fires — some of them resembled those
of volcanoes ; others, the raging flames among the firs and
pines of the Green Mountains ; others, the deep glow of the
log heaps of the American fallows.
On the fourteenth we sailed across the mouth of the Cali
fornian Gulf or sea of Cortes, and at night-fall lay in full view
of the rocky islands around the anchorage of Mazatlan. Cape
San Lucas had faded away in the northern horizon near sun
set, and I confess I regretted to know that I should probably
see its hills and plains no more ; but a reflection upon the des
tiny of the Californias took the place of such sorrow. That
country must become a constituent member in the great broth
erhood of American Nations. As a maritime country it is
unequalled on the western coast of America ; indeed I should
say, it is not approached in this respect by any country border
ing on the Pacific seas.
The harbors of San Quintin in Latitude 30° 23' N., San
Diego in Latitude 33° N, and San Francisco in Latitude 37°
N., afford secure anchorage for the navies of the civilized
world, and every desirable facility for erecting wharves, docks
and arsenals. These indenting a country capable of sustain
ing thirty-five millions of people, with the healthiest climate
on the continent, affording abundance of live oak and other
materials, without stint, for the construction and rigging of
vessels, and a ricb. soil bearing on the same acre the fruits of
the tropical and the temperate zones ; with the greatest possi
ble facilities for commercial intercourse with the eastern shores
of the Russian Empire, China*, India, Australia, and the Ha- *
62

412 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
waiian, and other Islands of the Pacific, as well as the whole
western coast of America, indicate the Californias as the seat
of the ruling maritime power of that half of the world.
But there are other reasons for this opinion. A canal can
easily be cut from the head of steamboat navigation on the
San Joaquim to the head waters of the Gulf of California.
This, for warlike and commercial purposes, would be invalua
ble. Another circumstance, however, is of more value than any
I have named in forming an estimate of the undeveloped
greatness of this charming country. It is the intellectual and
physical might of the people who are to inhabit it.
In order to indicate what race this is to be, we need only
refer to the facts, that the navigable waters of the Missouri
River are within six hundred miles of Puget's Sound :-that a
railroad of that length will send the commerce of the Indies,
China, and the Californias into the Mississippi valley, and send
the inhabitants of that valley to the Californias ; and that
Nature herself has connected that country with the States by
an excellent natural road.
This route from the San Joaquim to the plains of the Mis
souri is, not only feasible but easy. A Mr. Yunt, from Frank
lin, in the State of Missouri, and now a resident of Upper
California, travelled from the Great Salt Lake to Monterey
with loaded mules in thirty days. From this lake to the navi
gable waters of the San Joaquim is not more than three hun
dred and fifty miles, with plenty of wood, water and grass the
whole distance. The high range of mountains between the
San Joaquim and Mary's river can be passed in six hours.
There is a low gap, pathway leading through it. The route
from this gap leads up Mary's river to the forks ; thence up
the east fork, and over the plains, to the Pont Neuf branch of
the gaptin ; thence through a gap in the mountains to Big
Bear river at the Soda Springs ; thence up Bear river and
over the plains to the Rendezvous on the Sheetskadee ; thence
over the plains to the Sweetwater branch of the north fork of

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 413
Great Platte ; thence down that river to its entrance into the
Missouri. Along this track population must go westward. No one
acquainted with the indolent, mixed race of California, will
ever believe that they will populate, much less, for any length
of time, govern the country. The law of Nature which curses
the mulatto here with a constitution less robust than that of
either race from which he sprang, lays a similar penalty upon
the mingling of the Indian and white races in California and
Mexico. They must fade away ; while the mixing of different
branches of the Caucasian family in the States will continue
to produce a race of men, who will enlarge from period to pe
riod the field of their industry and civil domination, until not
only the Northern Statesof Mexico, but the Californias also,
will open their glebeto the pressure of its unconquered arm.
The old Saxon blood must stride the continent, must command
all its northern shores, must here press the grape and the olive,
here eat the orange and fig, and in their own unaided might,
erect the altar of civil and religious freedom on the plains of
the Californias.
Mazatlan ; we anchored in the roads, and having passed a
day and two nights with Mr. Parrot, our worthy consul, and
another American who was addicted to aristocracy and smug
gling, we bade adieu to Captain Paty and his Don Quixote,
to Messrs. Johnson and Chamberlain, and sailed for San Bias
in the schooner Gertrudes, formerly the Honduras of the
Hawaiian Isles. On the sixteenth we anchored alongside the
prison-ship in the roads of San Bias, and had the pleasure of
knowing that none of our countrymen had perished on the
passage. They had suffered greatly from thirst and hunger ;
but they lived ; and that to us and to them was cause bf the
deepest gratitude. Forty-six Americans and Britons in
chains ! — in the chains of Californian Spaniards ! Will not
the clay come when vengeance will be repaid 1
During the afternoon and the night following day we rode
sixty miles to the city of Tepic, and laid the case of these pris-

414 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC.
oners before the American and British consuls, who rendered
them all the aid and protection which their situation required.
They were, however, again tried and condemned to perpetual
imprisonment upon an island in a mountain lake of Mexico.
But Mr. Consul Barron — a nobler man never lived — saved
them. Graham returned to California a broken-spirited, ruin
ed man. The others are dispersed elsewhere. Our Govern
ment HAS NEVER AVENGED THEIR WRONGS !
After tarrying a week at Tepic, we took leave of the gene
rous spirits who had succored the unfortunate men that had
suffered under the tyranny of Californian misrule, and mounted
our mules on a journey across what is called the Republic of
Mexico. Our first point of destination was Guadalaxara.
The country between these two cities was found very uneven
and generally sterile ; not one twentieth of it being susceptible
of cultivation. The general aspect of the soil is that of a
reddish dust, encumbered with volcanic rocks; and the whole
broken at intervals with mountain peaks, dry river beds, and
craters of extinct volcanoes, usually sunken far .below the
general surface of the country. Guadalaxara is a town of
about seventy thousand souls — I believe I am right ir> sug
gesting that its inhabitants have souls. At all events, they
support priests enough to warrant a presumption to that effect.
The whole city swarms with the scoundrels. This latter term
is particularly applicable to those of them who forget tlieir
vows of chastity, and raise large families of illegitimate chil
dren. I understood there were some that did not practise this
mode of social life ; but did not see them. From Guadalax
ara we travelled to Queretero. The country between these
piaces is quite similar to that between Tepic and Guadalaxara.
It is however more elevated, studded with more mountains,
and less broken by ravines. Queretero contains about sixty
thousand souls. The people, like those in Tepic and Guada- , ¦
laxara, are little else than partially bleached Indians. There
are not white people enough to fill the public offices. We
next travelled to Mexico. The country along this part of our

TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 415
journey btcame more and more elevated and beautiful as we
advanced, till, on a bright afternoon of June, we halted on the
heights to view the old home of Montezuma, and the country
far ai I wide in all directions around us. It was an entranc
ing sight ! The green fields lay near, and southward the circle
of smoking and snow-clad mountains which environ the vale
—¦the lakes — and the city of Mexico ! Our mules rushed
down the mountains — our coach rattled on the causeway
where Cortez' men fell before the arrows of the Children of the
Sun ; our feet trode the great square, where Montezuma per
ished, and we took lodgings near the site of his great temple !
We tarried in Mexico a week — looked at the steel armor of
Cortez — the old Indian bracelets and nose-rings — the present
Indian population — El Presidente Bustamente — and were
most kindly and hospitably entertained by persons whom it
will ever be matter of regret to me that I shall so seldom
see again. From Mexico to Perote is one day's ride over
an elevated frosty country, partly clad with pine trees, but
generally consisting of hard clayey plains, sparsely dotted
with grass, between which tower immense tracts of lofty
mountains. Perote is a sort of fortification, with a few
houses in the vicinity ; the grand rendezvous of the Banditti.
From Perote to Jalappa is another day's travel. The last
part of the way is down the eastern side of mountains of great
height, and covered with shining lava — and in the very track
of Cortez. Jalappa is a pretty town on the sloping mountain
side, with a sweet climate — sweet pineapples— coffee plan
tations — and orange groves. Fourteen days we spent here,
and then took coach for Vera Cruz.
This town, founded by Cortez, consists of a cluster of fine
houses built on a sandy plain at the sea-side. It has a pretty
good roadstead before it, which is protected from some of the
winds by a small island half a mile from the shore, on which
is a fortress. Vera Cruz is a nest of black vomit and black-
%egs — and we left it in a day or two for Tamnico, two days'
sail up the coast.

416 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC
This latter town is beautifully cituated r.x or seven miles
up the Rio de Panuco. Kcrs W3 regained thirteen days,
when, with Arista's permission, we sailed for New Orlepas.
The green woods — the rushing foods of my native Jand !
I saw ye of a stormy night, when I came from the desert, and
the stormy seas. With a heart full of joy 1 ascended the I a
tiier of Waters to the holy and blooming plains ?f my Prai
rie Home — to wife — and the graves of those I loved, cmong
the trees at Prairie Lodge ! And now, as the reminiscences
of my wanderings are coming up before me like the fresh
leaves of spring when the winter is gone, I marvel at the
human soul, that it can look back on the mingled scenes of
Suffering and bliss with so much delight. The thorn that
wounded us is forgotten, while the rose that bore it, is the
ever-present emblem of beauty and joy. To have seen the
Indian in his native costume — in his wigwam — in all his na
tional habits of act and thought ; to have seen the flowers —
the animals — the streams — the mountains and the heavens
over them — on the broad expanse of the North American
wilderness, is a source of peculiar satisfaction. Not, indeed,
on account of any merit which may appear to attach to the
performance of such a journey, but because of the aliment
which it has furnished to the mind ; the knowledge it has
given of the beautiful world on which we live ! — its grandeur
— its infinite range of beautiful forms — and its smiling pro
mises to man. And if ray readers do but learn somewhat of
these things from the descriptions I have given, and derive
therefrom somewhat of the enjoyment which fills my heart
while I write of them, the author will be pleased with the
results of his labors.

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.

In the month of June, 1845, a secret and confidential
dispatch was issued from the Navy Department of the
Government of the United States, instructing Commo
dore Sloat to possess himself of the port of San Fran
cisco, and blockade or occupy such other ports on the
western coast of Mexico, as his forces would allow, so
soon as he should learn the existence of war between the
United States and Mexico. Subsequent orders of a
similar tenor were issued, but the first did not reach the
Pacific Squadron until the latter part of August, 1846,
when the orders had already been anticipated by the
high-spirited officers commanding on that station.
Commodore Sloat received information of the com
mencement of hostilities on the Rio Grande, at Mazatlan,
on the 7th of June, 1846, and he immediately sailed in
the flag-ship Savannah to Monterey, v&Jgere he found the
United States vessels Cyane and Levant. On the 7th
of July, he summoned the Governor of the town to sur
render, and on his declining to do so, it was taken by a
detachment of two hundred and fifty seamen and marines
from the vessels. They speedily raised the Star-spangled
banner from the custom house, and it was saluted by the
squadron, and cheered by its followers and the assem
bled crowd. A proclamation, stating the existence of
the war, and his intention to conquer California; and

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA. 421
¦permission to spend the winter in the valley of San Joa
quin, where was grass for his horses and game for his
men. He came back to them and led them to the place
designated, but he had hardly reached it, before he was
ordered out of the country by the governor, who threat
ened him with forcible ejection if he disobeyed the com
mand. He determined to rely upon the permission given
him in person to remain there; and the governor made
great preparations to drive him away. Of these he was
informed by the United States Consul, whom he answered
by a note, stating that his men had hoisted the American
flag, and that they would stand by it, if unjustly attacked,
so long as a man remained. The Mexican authorities
requested and received a translation* of Colonel Fre
mont's note, from the consul, and though they continued
their preparations for an attack within sight of the hill
on which the colonel was encamped, they took especial
care not to crowd him too closely.
Well versed in international law, however, and desirous
not to embroil his nation in difficulties, Colonel Fremont
determined to abandon his mission and return to the
United States, rather than continue it against the oppo
sition of the Californian authorities. On the 10th of
March, he moved quietly, out of his encampment, and
retired towards Oregon slowly and growlingly, followed
some distance by General Castro with four hundred men,
and three cannons. The valiant governor, having escorted
him to a safe distance, came back to Monterey, bringing
with him some old clothes and two pack saddles, all
thrown away as useless when Fremont struck his tents.
These were paraded as trophies, and the governor an
nounced in a flaming placard, that a band of highway
men, under Captain Fremont, of the United States Army,
had come into his Department, but that he had chased
them out with two hundred patriots, and sent them into
the back country. Colonel Fremont found that his

422 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.
intended return to the United States, by the way of
Oregon, would be a matter of impossibility, as Governor
Castro had stirred up the Indians against him, particu
larly the Hamath tribe, who killed and wounded several
of his men in a night attack. Two days after, they had
another fight with the same tribe, and burnt one of their
villages. It was at this time that Fremont saved Car
son's life, as an Indian was about killing him. Colonel
Fremont now saw that if he persevered in his route, he
would have to fight almost every mile of his way, besides
marching over mountains on which the snow was still
falling ; and, although he and his men were suffering from
cold, fatigue and famine, he remained for some days
deliberating upon the proper course to pursue. Gover
nor Castro was known to be assembling troops on the
north bank of San Francisco bay, for the avowed
purpose of attacking him and the American settlers in
California. With all the facts before him, he came to
the determination to turn upon his pursuers, and fight
them at all odds, hoping thus to overturn the existing
Government, and secure the safety of his own men and
the American settlers. General Castro and his patriots
learned his determination when he struck the first blow,
by surprising, on the 14th of June, an officer and four
teen men, who were taking a drove of two hundred
horses to the Californian camp. The men were released,
the horses retained. At day-break, on the 5th, the military
rendezvous and intended head-quarters was surprised
by the gallant little band, who captured nine pieces of
brass cannon, two hundred and fifty muskets, and other
arms and ammunition ; a general, a colonel, a captain
and other officers. The gallant colonel detailed fourteen
of his little party as a garrison for this post, and marched
to the Rio de los Americanos, to obtain aid from the
American settlers. An express came after him, with
information that a large force was approaching Sonoura,

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA. 423
under General Castro. On the afternoon of the 23d of
June, he set out with ninety mounted men, and reached
Sonoura, after a march of eighty miles, on the morning
of the 25th, where he had a fight With the vanguard of
Castro's army, under De la Torre, which was routed by
twenty Americans. De la Torre caught two of Colonel
Fremont's men going on an express, and his patriots cut.
them to pieces with their knives, an outrage which was
retaliated by the execution of three of De la Torre's men,
who were captured.
The vigor of Colonel Fremont, so ably seconded by
his gallant followers, having cleared the north side of the
bay of San Francisco of all the Californian " patriots,"
the colonel called the Americans together at Sonoura,
exposed to them their dangerous situation, and recom
mended to them, as the only means of Safety, a declara
tion of independence, and war upon Castro and his
troops. The independence was proclaimed immediately,
July 4, 1846. The war followed.
On the 13th of July, Commodore Sloat furnished a flag
to the foreigners of the pueblo of San Jose, a place
seventy miles interior from Monterey. He had com
pleted the organization of a company of thirty-five dra
goons, made up of volunteers from the ships and citizens,
which was intended to keep open the communication by
land between the different places held by the Americans.
Purser Fauntleroy commanded this corps, and came with
it, on the 17th of July, as far as the mission of St. Johns,
intending to take that place, and recover ten brass guns
said to have been buried there by the Mexicans, some
time previously. He found Colonel Fremo.nt in posses
sion of the place, and joyfully invited him to partake
further of the glory and labor of the conquest, which had
been begun by the commodore, and so ably seconded
by himself. The two officers returned in company to
Monterey on the 19lh of July, while the people of the

V~*^

424 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.
new republic, hearing of the doings of Commodore Sloat,
overturned their young government by hoisting the
American flag. At the time of meeting Purser Fauntle-
roy, Colonel Fremont increased his force to a hundred
and fifty riflemen, and was in pursuit of Castro, who
had fled south at the head of four or five hundred men.
Commodore Sloat soon after resigned the command
to Commodore Stockton, and returned to the United
States, to recruit his enfeebled health. Commodore
Stockton commenced his part of the conquest, by organ
izing the "California battalion of Mounted Riflemen,"
appointing their officers, and receiving them into the
service of the United States. Colonel Fremont sailed
with this battalion to San Diego, in the hope of getting
in advance of General Castro, and cutting off his retreat.
He arrived there on the 29th of July, but the Califor
nians had driven off all the horses, and he was not able
in consequence to move until the 8th of August- Com
modore Stockton, meanwhile, had sailed to San Pedro,
where he landed a sailor-army of three hundred and
sixty men from the frigate Congress. This force he led
towards the camp of the Meza, a fortified position held
by General Castro, three miles from Cuidad de los An
geles, the City of the Angels, and the capital of the
Californias-. On the approach of the sons of Neptune,
the martial governor abandoned his camp, and his gas
conading patriots separated into small parties, and ran
away in all directions; the governor himself making
good his escape to Mexico. Colonel Fremont joined the
commodore on the 15th of August, and the combined
forces entered the City of the Angels, and took posses
sion of the Government-house. Here Commodore Stock
ton busied himself posting a proclamation, and endeav
oring to establish a government, while Colonel Fremont
was absent on an expedition after Governor Castro,
whom he vainly sought to capture, that he might obtain

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA. 425
an apology for being called a bandit, in the insulting
proclamation posted by Castro, when his patriots drove
Fremont to Oregon.
The commodore directed Colonel Fremont to increase
his force and post it in garrisons in the different places.
Fifty were to be placed in the city of the Angels under
Captain Gillespie, fifty at Monterey, fifty at San Fran
cisco, and twenty-five at Santa Barbara. He embarked
for San Francisco to recruit, making in the meanwhile a
temporary disposition of his forces. During his absence,
on the 23d of September, a Californian army invested the
City of the Angels, and by their superior numbers caused
Captain Gillespie to surrender the city. He marched
with his force to San Pedro, and there embarked for
Monterey. The gallant youth who commanded at Santa
Barbara, Lieutenant Talbot, was next attacked, but not
so easily got rid of. He had nine men under his com
mand, and with these he held the town until he was
completely besieged. Determined not to surrender, he
evacuated the place, made his way through the enemy
to the mountains of the vicinity, and remained there, suf
fering from cold and hunger, eight days, constantly soli
cited by the enemy to surrender. A detachment of forty
men advanced to take him, but was driven back. They
then offered to permit him to retire if he would pledge
himself and his men to neutrality during the war, but
he boldly replied that he preferred to fight. He re
mained like a tiger in his lair, until they set fire to the
grass and bushes around him and burned him out. He
then commenced a march of five hundred miles to Mon
terey afoot, where his arrival caused the utmost joy to
all the Americans, with whom he was a great favorite,
and who had been informed by the Californians that he
and his men were all slain.
Colonel Fremont had made an effort to go from San
Francisco to the relief of Captain Gillespie, but he was

426 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.
driven back to Monterey by bad weather, a ftei being at
sea twenty-nine days. A party of fifty-seven Americans
under Captains Burrows and Thompson were attacked
by a party of Californians, and Captain Burrows and
three men slain. Colonel Fremont marched to their as
sistance, and the whole party arrived at San Fernando
on the 11th of January, 1847.
While these events were passing in California, General
Kearney was on his way from the United States with a
force intended to capture that country. On his way he
had met Kit Carson, bearing an account of the capture
of the city of the Angels by Commodore Stockton and
Colonel Fremont, and he had therefore sent back the
greater part of his troops. On the 5th of December he
met Captain Gillespie coming with a small party of vo
lunteers to give him information of the state of the coun
try. The Captain informed hirh that at San Pasqual,
three leagues distant, an armed party of Californians was
posted with a number of extra horses. He marched upon
them with an advanced party of twelve dragoons and
twenty volunteers ; a desperate fight ensued, which had
well nigh proved fatal to the Americans, at one time,
their line becoming scattered by the sorry condition of
the animals on which some of them were mounted. Gen
eral Kearney himself was wounded in two places, Cap
tain Gillespie and Lieutenant Warner each in three, and
Captain Gibson and eleven others were also wounded,
having from two to ten marks of lances on their persons.
Captain Johnston, Captain Moore, Lieutenant Hammond,
two Serjeants, two corporals, and eleven privates, and a
man attached to the topographical department, were slain.
Two howitzers had been taken into the action, but were
not used until its close, when the mules attached to one
of them became frightened and ran away with it directly
into the enemy's lines. The severe wounds of the actors
in this fight caused the march of the army to be delayed,

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA. 427
and it did not reach San Diego until the 12th of De
cember.. When Captain Stockton heard of the outbreak of the
inhabitants, he sent the frigate Savannah to the relief
of Captain Gillespie at the City of the Angels, but she
came too late. Three hundred and twenty men of the
crew landed and marched towards the city, but the Cali
fornians met them, well appointed with fine horses and
artillery, and the gallant sailors were compelled to retire,
after sustaining a battle with their small arms on foot
against greatly superior numbers. They lost eleven in
killed and wounded. Commodore Stockton himself sailed
to San Pedro in the Congress, and made another march
upon the City of the Angels with a sailor army, which
now took some of the ship's cannons with them, dragged
by hand with ropes. A battle was fought at the Rancho
Sepulrida, where the commodore decoyed the enemy in
to a proper position, and then opened upon them with the
guns which had been hidden from their view. One hun
dred killed, more than that number wounded, a hundred
taken prisoners, and the whole force of the enemy routed
and put to flight, were the immediate results of the fight.
Among its other advantages, was that of furnishing the
sailors, who had heretofore fought only on foot, with the
means of rapid transportation from place to place. As
soon as they were mounted on the captured horses, a se
ries of skirmishes was commenced, in which they dis
played the utmost courage and activity. General Kear
ney's arrival increased the prospect of a speedy termina
tion of the war, and he and the commodore at once laid
a plan for its further prosecution. On the 29th of De
cember the army, composed of sixty dismounted dragoons,
fifty California Volunteers, and four hundred marines and
sailors started on the march from San Diego to the City
of the Angels. At the Rio San Gabriel they found the
enemy in strong poiition, prepared to dispute its passage

428 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.
The battle was fought on the 8th of January, 1847, the
anniversary of the battle of New Orleans. The Ameri
cans waded through the water dragging their guns after
them, under a galling fire from the small arms and can
non of the enemy. They reserved their own fire until
they reached the opposite side of the river, where they
drove back the enemy, and then charged up the bank.
After a fight of an hour and a half they succeeded in
driving the enemy from the field. They encamped there
over night. The enemy made another stand on the
plains of the Meza, in the hope of saving the capital, but
they were again driven from the field, and on the 10th
the American army entered the capital in triumph. They
had lost one private killed, and thirteen of their number
wounded in the two fights. The enemy carried off their
dead, but it was considerable, according to General
Kearney, and Commodore Stockton estimates it at more
than seventy. The insurgents fled, and surrendered to
Colonel Fremont, who met them as he was approaching
the City of the Angels, on the 13th of January. The
territory now became quiet.
The arrival of the battalion raised among the Mormon
emigrants to California, and taken into the service of the
United States by General Kearney, enabled him to pro
vide against the receipt of any reinforcements from the
Mexican province of Sonoura to the Californians, by sta
tioning them as a guard and garrison at the mission of
San Luis Rey. Captain Tompkins arrived in the country
in February with his company of U. S. Artillery, and
was stationed at Monterey, and the arrival of Colonel
Stevenson, with his regiment of New York Volunteers,
formed such a force as was considered sufficient to over
awe all disaffection and opposition.
In July three companies of the New York regiment
were stationed at La Paz in Lower California, under
Lieutenant-Colonel Burton. They numbered about one

Battle of the Meza. — Page 428.

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA. 429
hundred men with two pieces of artillery. The U. S
sloop of war Dale cruized for some time in the vicinity,
and afforded protection to the garrison in La Paz, but
Commodore Shubrick ordered the Dale to Guaymas, and
cut him off from all assistance and means of escape in
case he was attacked. The enemy4collected< their whole
disposable force and marched against this little garrison.
The battle was begun on the morning of the 1,6th at two
o'clock, a loud roll of musketry followed by shouts, giv
ing the sleeping soldiers of the garrison the first notice
of an enemy's approach. The Americans stood to their
posts amid a shower of bullets, although the night was
so dark that they could only tell the presence of the foe
by the flashing of the musketry. They brought their
cannon to bear in the direction of the enemy's position,
and a few discharges was followed by a complete silence.
At daybreak the enemy was seen to be posted on a hill
a quarter of a mile distant, waiting until the women and
children had been removed from the town to renew the
attack. The garrison availed themselves of the pause
to fortify the roofs of their quarters withtj.bales of cotton
yarn. The enemy gained possession of some thick cac
tus bushes surrounding the camp, and kept up a heavy
fire from nine o'clock until night. They could not be
seen except when the flash of their guns displayed thgir
presence, and all the stratagems of the garrison failed to
induce them to come nearer. The, Americans had one
man killed. In the afternoon the enemy entered the
town and burned the houses of all who had been favor
able to the Americans. They suffered for this barbarity,
however, on their return from its perpetration, for as
they passed a low hill in front of the Aftnerican barracks, a
fire of grape and canister was opened upon them, which
spread death among the ranks and drove them back. The
next day passed in much the same manner, the Ameri
cans improving each cessation in the fighting to strength-

430 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.
en their works. A number of small houses which ob
structed the range of their cannons were burned, and for
several days things remained in nearly the same state.
On the 20th, the enemy dragged a piece of artillery to
a dilapidated building called the old Quarrel, the most
commanding site in the town. A hot fire then com
menced on both sides, and the enemy came quite close
to the works at dusk, and fired steadily until eight o'clock
in the evening. On the following morning Captain Stell
led a small party against the party working the piece
in the old Quartel, surprised them, killed six, and carried
off their flag, which was immediately inverted under
the star-spangled banner of the garrison. The enemy
then left the town, and distributed themselves in the
neighborhood to cut off supplies from the Americans.
Meanwhile, a party of one hundred and fifty Mexicans
approached San Jose, where Lieutenant Heywpod was
posted with twenty men and one nine pounder. They
demanded a surrender on the 20th of November, and
when that was refused, a heavy firing was commenced,
which continued all night and the following day. On
the night of the second day a grand assault was made.
The leader of the enem)', Mejares, led forty men against
the front, while a hundred men with scaling ladders came
upon the rear. The nine pounder opened upon the va
liant general, killed him and three of his men, and drove
the rest back in confusion. The gun was then turned
upon the party in the rear, and they too were at once
dispersed. A firing was kept up until the morning, when
two American whalers entered the harbor and sent fifty
men on shore. The enemy mistaking them for men of
war, fled in haste towards La Paz.
By the terms of the treaty of peace between the two
governments, the boundary line was made to run along
the southern boundary of New Mexico to its westward
termination, thence northwardly along the western line

THE GOLD REGIONS- 431
of New Mexico until it intersects the first branch of the
river Gila, thence down the middle of said branch and
of the said river until it empties into the Rio Colorado,
following the division line between Upper and Lower
California to the ocean. Under this treaty the American
forces abandoned the posts they held in Lower California,
and the territory of the upper province rapidly filling up
with emigrants from the United States, bids fair to be
come at an early day one of the most populous of the
territories of the United States. The reported discovery
of gold' in the waters of the Sacramento' has added the
charm of an El Dorado to the already alluring character
of the Territory. And the gold region in this country,
as lately discovered, is very large, and it is supposed by
very good judges, that there is a sufficient quantity of the
precious ore to be found here to profitably employ one
hundred thousand persons for generations to come. So
far as discovered, the gold is found in an extent of coun
try of four hundred miles long, by one hundred and fifty
wide ; and the whole extent of the gold regions have not
as yet been fully explored ; and no particular portion
seems more productive than another. In the river and
on the flatlands, the gold dust is found, but among the
rocks and in the highlands, it is found in lumps from the
size of a man's hand, to the size of a small shot ; all of
which is solid, and presents the appearance of having
been thrown up by a volcanic eruption. And so plenty
is the gold found here, that but little care is paid to the
washing of it by those engaged at it, and they lose a
great deal of the fine dust, for the want of proper wash
ers to extricate the gold from the dirt; and a man by
ordinary labor may procure from fifty to two hundred
dollars per day in some of the placers. Mr. Thomas
O. Larkin, Naval Agent, and residing in California, re
ports to the Government at Washington, on which there

432 THE GO.D REGIONS.

can be the utmost implicit confidence placed in. He
says, " I have seen several pounds of this gold, and con
sider it very pure, and worth in New York, from 17
to 18 dollars per ounce, and 14 to 16 dollars in merchan
dize is paid for it here. One man," he says, " has been
known to earn an average for sixteen days, 25 dollars
per day, with only a shovel and a tin pan to work with -,
and others have made as high as 50 dollars per day,
with the same rude instruments, but when they can have
one of those newly invented gold washers to work with,
they will be enabled to make from twice to six times as
much as they now do ; and some men who may be so
fortunate as to fall in or find some very rich placers,
may make an independent fortune in the course of a
very few months. For a confirmation of the above
statements, see Col. Mason's report, also made to our
government, dated at Monterey, California, August 17th,
1848. But gold is not the only valuable metal or ore
found in California, for there is also found silver, and
¦* quicksilver, and iron ; lead and coal mines, in a great
abundance ; and all which in due course of time will be
very valuable.
¦There are several different routes for travellers or emigrants to go
to California, but the author will not very particularly recommend
any one route more than another, but leave it discretionary with the
traveller to choose his route — for some persons would prefer one way
when others would another. The several different routes hereby
alluded to, are by sea in sailing vessels or steam ships around Cape
Horn to California, which takes from four to six months to go • and
by sailing vessels or steam ships to Chagres, thenoe to Panama by
river and land conveyance, and thence from Panama by sailin°- or
steam vessels to California, which takes from sixty to one hundred
days ; and you can also take vessel and go to Vera Cruz, and thence
through Mexico by land. But the most surest and safest land route
are by way of Independence in Missouri, and there are seve-al other
land routes from different points in Texas, but they are as yet not
much travelled.

TRAVELS IN OREGON, No. 1.

On the 7th of May, in the year 1792, Captain Robert
Gray, in the ship Columbia of Boston, discovered and
entered the Columbia River, to which he gave the name
of his vessel. Captain Gray's visit first established the
existence of a river, and gave to the United States a
claim to the territory from discovery. In 1804-5, Cap
tains Lewis and Clark, under the direction of the Ameri
can Government, explored the country from the mouth
of the Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia, where they
spent the whiter of 1805-6. This expedition gave to
the United States another claim to the country. The
first trading house was established on the Columbia River
in 1808, by the Missouri Fur Company. Two years af
terwards, under the auspices of the famous John Jacob
Astor of New York, the Pacific Fur Company was
formed, and in 1811 Astoria was founded at the mouth
of the Columbia River. This post was sold to the Hud
son's Bay Company during the war with Great Britain,
but restored to its original proprietors by order of the
British Government, under the terms of the Treaty of
Ghent. The territory drained by the Columbia comprises about
four hundred thousand square miles, the southernmost
points being in the latitude of Boston, and the northern
most on the same parallel with the southern shores of

434 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1.
the Baltic Sea. It is divided into three sections separated
by ranges of mountains running nearly parallel with the
Pacific shore. The first section extends from the Ocean
to the President's Range, or Cascade Mountains. Be
tween these mountains and the Blue Mountains is the
second section, and the third extends from the Blue
Mountains to the Rocky Mountains, which form the east
ern boundary of the country from the fifty-fourth to the
forty-second parallel. The Snowy Mountains extending
in the direction of the forty-first parallel from the Rocky
Mountains, some seven hundred miles to the ocean, con
stitute a natural boundary on the south, while a similar
range of mountains on the north extends from the Strait
of Fuca north-eastward to the Rocky Mountains, separ
ating the waters of the Columbia from those of Frazer's
River. The whole Pacific coast, extent about five
hundred miles in a line nearly due north and south, has
but a single harbor, and that frequently inaccessible for
ships, the mouth of the Columbia. The soil, climate and
productions are various. In the first section, between the
coast and the President's Range, the climate is mild
throughout the year, but not very favorable to agricul
ture. Rains begin to fall in November and last till
March, but the quantity of water that falls is not pro
portioned to the frequency of the showers. Frosts begin
to occur in August, owing to the proximity of the moun
tains, and the same cause makes the nights to be so cold
that Indian corn will not ripen. Fruit trees blossom
early in April at Vancouver and Nisqually. Peas are
a foot high at the latter place in the early part of May
strawberries in full blossom and sallad gone to seed.
Almost every variety of timber is afforded, and near the
coast the trees grow to an astonishing height.
Near the foot of the Cascade Mountains, the climate
is adapted to all kinds of grain, and apples and pears.
Great numbers of horses and horned cattle may be rais-

TRAVELS . N OREGON NO. 1. 435
ed nere, the green or dried grass affording them sub
sistence throughout the year. The finest land in Oregon
is said to be in the valley of the Willamette, or Multu-
nomah River, which empties itself into the south side of
the Columbia River, after running a course of one hund
red miles, nearly north and south. The soil of the
country between the President's Range and the Blue
Mountains is generally a bright sandy loam, barren on
the hills, but a rich alluvion in the valley. The third
section of the country is rocky, broken and barren. Lofty
mountain spurs traverse it in all directions, affording but
little level ground, and never-melting snow lies upon
their tops all the year. All attempts to cultivate veget
ables in this part of the country have failed, a result to
be attributed to the great difference in temperature be
tween the day and the succeeding night. In the summer
season this often amounts to more than fifty and seldom
to less than thirty degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer.
Wyeth saw one of these thermometers stand at the
freezing point in the morning, and at ninety-two de
grees at mid-day in the month of August, at Fort Hall,
on the Lewis River, near the forty-third parallel of lati
tude. Avoiding the usual detail of a mere geographical
sketch, and passing over the long list of stations which
the country presents, and which are seldom anything
more than mere trading posts, slightly fortified as a pro
tection against the Indians, it is proposed to give an ac
count of some of the principal expeditions for discovery
and exploration which have of late years been sent to
the wilds of Oregon. Of these the first that presents it
self to our notice is an overland expedition sent by Cap
tain Wilkes, when in command of the U. S. Exploring
Expedition in Southern Oregon and California. The
party left Fort Vancouver and proceeded by the way
of the Hudson's Bay Company's farm on Multunomah

436 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1.
Island, through the Willamette Valley to Champooing.
Some of them suffered from fever and ague, which they
rather attributed to the bad position of their camps than
to any other cause. The settlers in the valley were mostly
old trappers, who were ready at any time to sell their
improvements and return to the business of trapping.
In the southern part of Willamette Valley the country
stretches out into wild prairie ground, rising in the dis
tance into low undulating hills, which are bare of trees,
with the exception of a few scattered oaks. From the
Willamette they marched by a tedious and difficult route
over the Elk Mountains to Fort Umpqua, a station en
closed by a line of high pickets with bastions at diagonal
corners. The area is about two hundred feet square,
inhabited by five men, two women, and nine dogs. A
large number of the Umpqua Indians were collected in
the vicinity of the fort, and manifested an intention to
attack it. The river Umpqua flows from this station a
north-westerly course for thirty miles to the sea. It is
navigable for vessels drawing six feet of water, but has
only nine feet of water on its bar, and no harbor for sea
going vessels.
The district around the Umpqua Fort yields a consid
erable supply of furs, principally beaver of small size.
The superintendent of the fort exchanged some fine
horses for the exhausted steeds, of his visitors, and gave
them some bear and deer skins to be made into shirts
and trowsers. The agents of the company seemed to
feel no concern at their exposed situation, a fact upon
which Mr. Wilkes remarks, that few of them seem to
know the reason of their meeting so few mishaps in pass
ing through an apparently hostile country; and many
deem it owing to their own skill and prowess. The
truth is, that as soon as the Indians have traded with the
whites and become dependent upon them for supplies,
thenceforth they can be easily controlled. If disposed

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1. 437
to be hostile the fort at Umpqua could offer no resistance
to their attack, but they are aware that all their supplies
of ammunition, tobacco, blankets, and other articles of
necessity would be at onde cut off, which would reduce
thefti to great distress. The self-interest, therefore, of
the Indians is the safeguard of the white traders.
After leaving the fort, the party marched to the south
branch of the Umpqua river, noticing, by the way grisly
bears, and white-tailed and black-tailed deer. They
crossed the Umpqua mountains and came into the. plain
of the Shaste country, noticing by the way the bulb used
as a substitute for soap in California and Mexico. Their
march over the mountains Was obstructed by Indians,
who set fire to the woods for the purpose of causing the
trees to fall across the path, and sometimes tied branches
of trees across the trail, with a view to impede the party.
Their signal fires were seen on every side.
The party next reached the country of the Hamath
or Klamet Indians, known among the hunters by the
name Rogues or Rascals, which they have merited
by their villainy. During this part of their journey,
the travellers investigated the character of the pinus
Lumbertianus, whose cones were found to be fifteen
inches long. Some of the sugar produced by this tree
was obtained. It has a sweet taste, with a slightly bitter
and turpentine flavor. It resembles manna, and is ob
tained by the Indians by making a cavity in the tree,
whence it exudes. It is a cathartie, and affected all of
the party who used it ; although the less delicate old
hunters are in the habit of using it as a substitute for
sugar. Passing along the banks of the Tootootutnas, or
Rogues river, a part of the expedition was attacked by
a band of Indians, who massacred the most of them. Mr.
Turner, who was with the party, was a strong athletic
man. The Indians surprised his companions by a stra
tagem, and the affray began while he was seated by the

438 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1.
fire. He snatched up a fire-brand and defended himself
until his wife brought him his rifle, with which several
of the wily enemy were made to pay the penalty of their
treachery. The Antelopes which are found in Oregon, Were here
first seen and shot by the expedition. Their hair is re
markably short, and their flesh superior in flavor to that
of the deer. It only inhabits the prairie, being seldom
seen even in the open-wooded country. Leaving the
Rogues river, the expedition ascended the Boundary
Mountains, which then separated the United States and
Mexican territories, and descended on the south side
into the Klamet valley, the formation of which appeared
to be composed of a dark green serpentine, inferior to
any portion of the country they had passed over. In
this valley they found the Shaste Indians, a good-looking,
well proportioned race, who wore their black hair hang
ing down to their shoulders, but no clothes save an or
namental girdle and a mantle of wolf or deer skin.
They drove a brisk trade with the expedition for their
bows and arrows. These were beautifully made : the
bows of yew, about ten feet long, flat, an inch and a
half to two inches wide, backed very neatly with sinew,
and painted. The arrows were about thirty inches long,
some made of close-grained wood, others of reed. They
were feathered from five to eight inches, and the barbed
heads were made of finely wrought obsidian. The head
is inserted in a grooved piece from three to five inches
long, and is attached to the shaft by a socket. This
barb when it penetrates, is left in the wound when the
shaft is withdrawn. One of the party put up a button
at twenty yards distance, and an Indian exhibited his
powers by hitting it three times in five. He was re
warded for his dexterity with the button and a plug of
tobacco. They use their bows and arrows so dextrously
as to kill fish, and one of the men remarked after watch-

TRAVELS IN OREGfON, NO.l. 439
ing their performances, that he would as leave be shot
at with a musket at one hundred yards, as with one of
those Indians With his bow and arrow.
Travelling along Destruction river, the party reached
the valley of the Sacramento. At Bear's camp they
killed on one afternoon five grisly bears and three deer,
all in excellent condition. The party prosecuted their
journey as far as Captain Sutter's settlement, at New
Helvetia, on the Sacramento. Captain Sutter is a Swiss
by birth. He served as a lieutenant in the Swiss gimrds
in the time of Charles X. Soon after the revolution of
July he came to the United States, and resided in Mis
souri for some years. He removed to Californiain 1839,
and formed the first settlement in the valley on a large
grant of land which he obtained from the Mexican gov
ernment. He had at first some trouble with the Indians,
but by the occasional exercise of well-timed authority,
he has succeeded in converting them into a peaceable and
industrious people, and has taught them many useful arts.
He pays for labpr in goods. Thirty white men ape
employed by him, and a great number of Indians. The
latter have been engaged in constructing a sort of aque
duct to irrigate his lands with the waters of the Rio de
los Americanos. The Russians had an establishment in
his vicinity, which was found to be a losing concern, and
they therefore sold it out to Captain Sutter, who makes-
a yearly payment in grain. This put him into the direc
tion of a large party of hunters and trappers, mostly
Americans, who thus enter into competition with the
Hudson's Bay Company. Other settlers are locating
themselves in the valley, and it will ere long be of much
importance. The officers of the Exploring Expedition,
however, thought but little of the soil. They entered it
with a high idea of its fruitfulness, and with the expecta
tion of finding the soil abounding with every thing that
could render it desirable for agriculturists, and sus-
67

440 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1.
ceptible of producing all that would be necessary for the
comfort and convenience of man. They were sadly
disappointed when they found a large part of it barren
and destitute even of pasturage, and that even the fertile
portion was annually overflowed. The high prairie was
equally gravelly and sterile. But Captain Wilkes con-
. siders that there is a sufficient quantity of good soil for
a valuable agricultural country, and that it would be
capable of affording subsistence to a large number of in
habitants, more, however, from the extraordinary fertility
of these grounds than from their extent.
While he was at Nisqually with the Exp!oring*Expe-
dition, Captain Wilkes organized two parties for the pur
pose of penetrating into the interior of Oregon. The
fort at Nisqually is constructed of pickets enclosing a
long square space, each side about two hundred feet,
with four corner bastions. Within the enclosure are the
agent's stores, and half a dozen houses built of logs and
roofed with bark. Its situation is not well chosen, being
too far distant from good water, and its arrangements
are on too small a scale for its importance as a trading
and agricultural post. The appearance of the soil in its
vicinity, covered with a profusion of all kinds of flowers,
give an impression of extreme fertility, but upon exam
ination it proves to be extremely thin, composed of a
light brown earth, intermixed with a large proportion of
gravel and stones, an abundance of rain, which never
falls during the summer months, being required to bring
any crop to perfection.
The Hudson's Bay Company's charter precludes it from
engaging in farming operations, and they were for many
years obliged to purchase agricultural products from the
settlers in the country, and to import largely from Cali
fornia. This demand raised the price of wheat as high
as seventy- five cents per bushel, and the small farmers
exulted in good prospects, which were destined to a

TEAVELS IN OREGON NO. 1. 44]
complete reverse. The officers, agents and servants of
the Hudson's Bay Company organized another company,
called the Puget Sound Company, the shares of which
are held exclusively by themselves, and the officers
chosen from among their number. Dr. McLaughlin, for
instance, chief officer and Governor of Fort Vancouver
for the HudsonYBay Company, and Director of the Pu
get Sound Company, has the entire management of its
concerns, receiving therefor a Salary of five hundred
pounds. The nominal capital of the Puget Sound Com
pany is five hundred thousand pounds, but as two hun
dred thousand pounds were found sufficient for the ope
rations of the company, no more was paid in. They
began by making large importations of stock from Cali
fornia, and some of the best breed of cattle from England.
They have also entered into farming on an extensive
scale, using as laborers the servants of the Hudson's Bay
Company, who are bound by their contracts to do all
manner of service that may be required of them, even to
the bearing of arms. Almost all the trading establish
ments of the Hudson's Bay Company have been changed
into large agricultural ones, and all their stations and
forts and the Russian ports are supplied by this means
with wheat, butter and cheese. The Russians take an
nually fifteen thousand bushels of wheat. The directors
of the company expect to succeed in breeding a sufficient
stock of cattle and sheep to enable them to export hides,
horn, tallow and wool to England in the return ships,
which hitherto have left the coast comparatively empty,
as the furs occupy only a small part of the ship. The
surplus of wheat that they now raise has reduced the
price of that article so low that, the farmers some
times feed their horses with it rather than try to find a
market. The scenery around Nisqually embraces a splendid
panorama, -with Mount Rainier rising nearly east of it.

442 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1.
There are two or three other magnificent snowy peaks,
all nearly regular cones, with summits indicating extinct
volcanoes. Captain Wilkes proceeded from Nisqually
to Cowlitz Fort, over a country of which he says, the
park-like scenery increased in beauty until they were
scarcely able to realize that they were in a savage and
wild country, and that nature, not art, had perfected the
landscape. Beautiful lakes, with greensward growing to
the water's edge, with deer feeding fearlessly on their
margins, and every tint of flower, many of which were
not new to our gardens at home, strewn in profusion
around ; they could hardly, in galloping along, but expect
to see some beautiful mansion as a fit accompaniment to
such scenery. On the banks of the rivers, strawberries
were abundant, so tempting as to induce them to dis
mount and feast upon them ; and the red honeysuckle in
full bloom, combined with other familiar plants, to remind
them forcibly of home.
The company's farm at the Cowlitz river comprises six
or seven hundred acres under skilful cultivation, with se
veral large granaries, a large farm-house, and numerous
out buildings to accommodate the dairy, workmen, cat
tle, &c The fields were covered with a luxuriant crop
of wheat. The company had provided little or no de
fence against Indians, these being too dependent for
food and every necessary upon the company to permit
them to quarrel except among themselves. The com
pany's agent took no notice whatever of their disputes.
The number of wolves prowling about made it neces
sary to bring the cattle in at night, and sometimes to
protect them by a guard in the day time.
The superintendant of the Cowlitz farm procured for
Captain Wilkes a guide and pilot to carry him down the
Cowlitz to the Columbia river and Astoria. This man
proved to be the same who had held the post of coxswain
of General Cass's canoe, when that able and enterprising

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO.l. 443
governor performed his trip to the lakes in the north
west territory. This guide had been for several years
in Oregon. He had married an Indian wife, and was
living on a farm of about fifty acres, at the Cowlitz,
independent and contented. Captain Wilkes had seldom
seen so pretty a woman as his wife ; before her marriage
she was the belle of the country, and celebrated for
her horsemanship.
The Columbia river where the Cowlitz jdins it, is a
broad flowing stream, and may be readily navigated by
canoes. At this point is a high conical hill, which has
been used as a burial-place by the Indians. The re
mains of many of their coffins scattered over the surface
caused the trappers to give it the name Mount Coffin.
The explorations of Captain Freemont have proved
that the Columbia stands alone as the only great river
on the Pacific slope of our continent, which Ifads from
the ocean to the Roeky Mountains, and opens a line of
communication from the sea to the valley of the Missis
sippi. Its northern branch rises in the Rocky Mountains in
50° N. Lat. and 116° W. Long, and thence runs by a
northern route to near McGillivray's Pass in the Rocky
Mountains. Here it is three thousand six hundred feet
above the level of the sea. Receiving tbe waters of
Canoe river, it turns south, proceeding to Fort Colville,
receiving by the way, many tributaries, among which
are the Kootanie or Flat Bow, and the Flat Head, or
Clark's river. Between McGillivray's Pass and Fort
Colville, a distance of two hundred and twenty miles, its
level has fallen five hundred and fifty feet. This part of
its course is surrounded by high mountains, among which
it often expands into a line of lakes. A little south of
Colville, it turns to the west, receiving Spokan river
from the east. Sixty miles from this bend, its course is
again changed to .the south, and its waters augmented

444 TRAVELS IN CXEGON, NO. 1.
by receiving the Okmagan river, which comes from a
line of lakes extensively susceptible of canoe navigation.
The Columbia now passes to the southward as far as
Wallawalla, 45° N. Lat., where it is joined by the Sap-
tin or Lewis's river. This is a stream five hundred and
twenty miles long from its rise in the Rocky Mountains
to its junction with the Columbia. It receives* many
branches from the east and west, the principal of which
are the Kooskooske and the Salmon rivers. The num
ber of rapids in Lewis's river make it very dangerous
for canoe navigation. Its falls form one of the greatest
natural beauties of Oregon. -They are thus described
by Colonel Fremont :
"The vertical fall is perhaps eighteen feet high, and
nearer the sheet of foaming water is divided and broken
into cataracts, were several little islands on the brink and
in the river above, give it much picturesque beauty, and
make it one of those places the traveller turns again and
again to fix in his memory. There were several lodges
of Indians here, from whom we traded salmon. Below
this place the river makes a remarkable bend, and the
road ascending the ridge gave us a fine view of the river
below, intersected at many places by numerous fish
dams. In the north about fifty miles distant, were some
high snowy peaks of the Salmon river mountains ; and
in the north-east the last peak of the range was visible at
the distance of perhaps one hundred miles or more. The
river hills consist of very broken masses of sand, covered
everywhere with the same interminable fields of sage,
and occasionally the road is very heavy. We now fre
quently saw Indians who were strung along the river at
every little rapid where fish are to be caught, and the
cry " haggai, haggai," was constantly heard whenever
we passed near their huts or met them in the road. Very
many of them were oddly and partially dressed in over
coat, shirt, waistcoat or pantaloons, ;or whatever article

The Falls of Lewis Fork. Columbia River, Oregon— P. 444.

> TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO.l. 445

of clothing they have been able to procure in trade from
« the emigrants; for we had now entirely quitted the
' country where hawks' bills, beads and vermillion were
the current coin, and found that here only useful articles,
and chiefly clothing, were in great request. These,
however, are eagerly sought after, and for a few trifling
pieces of clothing, travellers may procure food sufficient
to carry them to the Columbia.
" We made a long stretch across the upper plain, and
encamped on the bluff where the grass was very green
and good, the soil of the upper plains containing a con
siderable proportion of calcareous matter. This green
freshness of the grass was very remarkable for the sea
son of the year. Again we heard the roar of the fall in
the river below, where the water in an unbroken volume
goes over a descent of several feet."
At Wallawalla the Columbia is still one thousand two
hundred and eighty-six feet above the sea-level, and is
three thousand five hundred feet wide. Turning to the
westward it now pursues a rapid course for eighty miles,
and then enters the Cascade Mountains, where a series
of falls and rapids make its canoe navigation only prac
ticable by portages. Before entering these mountains,
it receives from the south the Umatilla, Quisnel's, John
Day's and Chute rivers, and from the north Cathlatate's
river. Forty miles of still-water navigation are afforded
from the rapids of the Cascade Mountains to the next
series of similar obstructions, and to these last succeed a
hundred and twenty miles of navigation to the ocean.
Vessels drawing twelve feet of water can pass through
this part of the river, although numerous sand bars ren
der the navigation somewhat unsafe.
So recently as 1819, the lower part of this river and
its precise outlet were unknown. For two-thirds of the
year its entrance is impracticable, and it is equally dang
erous to leave it. The greatest portion of the valuable

446 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1.
harbors of the territory are within the Straits of Juande
Fuca, where the largest vessels can go safely. The
rise and fall of the tides is eighteen feet. In attempting
to cross the bar of the Columbia River, sometime after
his arrival on the coast, Captain Wilkes lost one of the
vessels of the Exploring Expedition. That officer says,
mere description can give little idea of the terrors of the
bar of the Columbia. All who have seen it have spoken
of the wildness of the scene, and the incessant roar of
the waters, representing it as one of the most fearful
sights that can possibly meet the eye of the sailor. The
difficulty of its channels, the distance of the leading sail
ing marks, their uncertainty to one unacquainted with
them, the want of knowledge of the strength and direc
tion of the currents, with the necessity of approaching
close to unseen dangers, the transition from clear to
turbid water, all cause doubt and mistrust.
At Astoria, Captain Wilkes was met by Mr. Birnie,
the agent to the Hudson's Bay Company, at the landing
and warmly welcomed. He carried them to his quart
ers, and his fires burned brightly, and his board bent be
neath good cheer, although it was past midnight. After
supper they were made comfortable for the night, and
in the morning they were enabled to take a survey of
Astoria. Half a dozen log houses, with as many sheds, and a
pig-sty or two, are all that it can boast of, and even
these are rapidly going to decay. The Company have
long since given up the idea of holding or improving it
as a post, and in consequence pay little attention to it.
They have removed the head-quarters of their opera
tions to Vancouver, eighty miles further up the river,
and hold Astoria principally for the convenience of their
vessels. Once it had its gardens, forts, and banqueting
halls ; and, when it was the head-quaters of the North
west Company during their rivalship with the Hudson's

i

1

mi

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 1. 447
Bay Company, as jovial a set resided here as ever was
met together. In point of situation, few places will vie with
Astoria. It is situated on the south side of the Columbia
river, eleven miles from Cape Disappointment in a direct
line. It commands a fine view of the high promontory
of Cape Disappointment and. the ocean bounding it on
the west ; the Chinook Hills and Point Ellice, with its
rugged peak, on the north ; Tongue Point and Katalamet
Range on the east; and a high background bristling
with lofty pines on the south. The ground rises gradu
ally from the river to the top of a ridge five hundred
feet in elevation. This was originally covered with,a
thick forest of pines ; that part reclaimed by the first
occupants is again growing up in brushwood. From all
parts of the ground the broad surface of the river is in
view. The stillness is remarkable, and makes ft evident
that one is yet far more removed from civilized life ; the
distant, though distinct roar of the ocean is the only
sound that is heard. This, however, is almost incessant ;
for the stream though rushing onwards in silence to meet
the ocean keeps up an eternal war with it on the bar,
producing at times scenes of great grandeur, but which
renders the bar wholly impassible for days together.
The members of the Exploring Expedition saw many
things to remind them of home, among which was a
sward of white clover in full blossom, and numerous
other plants that had found their way there. The trees
were also familiar and truly American. They felt that
the land belonged to their own country, that they were
not strangers on its soil, and they could riot but take
great interest in relation to its destiny, in the prospect
of its one day becoming the abode of their friends and
relatives. Captain Wilkes left one party of his men at Astoria
to await the arrival of one of his vessels, while with
another party he embarked on the Columbia to ascend

448 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO.l.
to Fort Vancouver. They landed within a mile of the
fort, and walked to it by a road through a wood of large
pines, and an undergrowth of various flowering shrubs.
The old stumps in the road were overgrown with the
honeysuckle in full blossom. They entered "at the back
of the village, which consisted of about fifty comfortable
log houses, placed in regular order on each side of the
road. They are inhabited by the company's servants, and
were swarming with children, — whites, half-breeds and
pure Indians. The fort stands at some distance beyond the
village, and to the eye appears like an upright wall of
pjckets, twenty-five feet high ; this encloses the houses,
shops and magazines of the company. The enclosure
contained about four acres, which appear to be under
full cultivation. Large granaries were to be seen be
yond the fort. At one end is Dr. McLaughlin's house,
built after the model of the French Canadian, and
one story, weather-boarded and painted white. It has
a piazza and some flower beds, with grape and other
vines in front. Between the steps are two old cannons
on sea carriages, with a few shot to speak defiance to
the natives, who doubtless look upon them as very for
midable weapons of destruction. These are mentioned
by Captain Wilkes as the only warlike weapons to his
knowledge within the pickets of Vancouver, which dif
fers from all the other forts in having no bastions, gal
leries or loopholes.

Missing Page

Missing Page

TRAVELS IN OREGON, No. 2.

Vancouver is the head-quarters of the North-west or
Columbia Department of the Hudson's Bay Company's
territories. All the returns of furs are received here,
and hither all accounts are transmitted for settlement.
These operations occasion a large mass of business to be
transacted at this establishment, which is upon an ex
tensive scale, worthy of the vast interest of which it is
the centre. Every thing is arranged in the best order,
and apparently with great economy. The situation is
favorable for agricultural purposes, and it may be said
to be the head of navigation for sea-going vessels. A
vessel of fourteen feet draught of water may reach it in
the lowest state of the river. It is a large manufactur
ing, agricultural and commercial depot, and there are
few, if any idlers, except the sick. Although there is no
obvious reason for it, every body seems to be in a hurry.
The people of Fort Vancouver make frequent com
plaints of the quantity and quality of the food issued by
the company to its servants. Many of the servants
complain that they had to spend a great part of the mo
ney they received to buy food. This is £17 a year,
out of which they have to furnish themselves with
clothes. They are engaged for five years, and after
their time has expired, the company are obliged to send
them back to England or Canada if they desire it.

452 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
Generally, however, when their time expires, they find
themselves in debt, and are obliged to serve an extra
time to pay it ; and not unfrequently, at the expiration
of their engagement, they have become attached or mar
ried to some Indian woman, or half-breed, and have
children, on which account they find themselves unable
to leave, and continue attached to the company's service,
and in all respects under the same management as
before. If they desire to remain and cultivate land,
they are assigned a certain portion, but are still depend
ent on the company for many necessaries of life, cloth
ing, &c.
This causes them to become a sort of vassal, and com
pels them to execute the will of the company. In this
way, however, order and decorum are preserved, toge
ther with steady habits, for few can in any way long
withstand this silent influence. The consequence is thnt
few communities are to be found more orderly than that
which is formed of the persons who have retired from
the company's service. This power, exercised by the
officers of the company is much complained of, but it
appears to be used for good purposes, as far at least as
the morals of the settlers and servants are concerned.
Dr. McLaughlin, who is at the head of affairs in this
region, is of Scotch origin, but by birth a Canadian, en
thusiastic in disposition, possessing great energy of char
acter, and extremely well suited for the situation he
occupies, which requires great talent and industry.
Through his influence the use of ardent spirits has been
almost entirely done away with. Large quantities pf
spirituous liquors are stored in the magazines of Fort
Vancouver, which the company have refused to make
an article of trade, and none is now used by them in the
territory for that purpose. They have found the rule
highly beneficial to their business in many respects;
more furs are taken in consequence of those engaged

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2. 453
having fewer inducements to err ; the Indians are found
to be less quarrelsome, and pursue the chase more con
stantly ; and the settlers have been uniformly prosper
ous. A brig came there with a cargo consisting prin
cipally of rum. The Dr. negotiated and succeeded
in buying the whole cargo, simply to prevent the use of
the rum, and promote the temperance cause.
Although Dr. McLaughlin is a professed Roman Cath*
olic, and has a priest of the same faith daily officiating at
the chapel, he is in an eminent degree free from. sectarian
prejudices and illiberality. Religious toleration is allowed
in its fullest extent, and several of the American and
other missionaries, make Vancouver for the most part
their home, where the governor kindly receives and
entertains them, at no expense to thomselves.
All the goods imported into Oregon are divided into
three classes ; articles of gratuity, those of trade, and
those intended to pay for small services, labor and pro
visions. The first consists of knives and tobacco ; the se
cond of blankets, guns, cloth, powder and shot ; the'third
of shirts, handkerchiefs, ribands, beads, &c. These articles
are bartered at seemingly great profits, and many per
sons imagine that large gain must be the result from the
Indian trade ; but this is seldom the case. The Indians
and settlers fully understand the value of each article.
The company make advances to all their trappers, if
they wish to be sure of their services ; and from such a
reckless set there is little certainty of getting returns,
even if the trapper has it in his power. In fact, he will
not return with his season's acquisition unless he is con
strained to pursue the same course of life for another
yeaV, when he requires a new advance. In order to
avoid losses by the departure of their men, the parties,
some thirty or forty in number, are placed under the
charge of an officer, who has charge of the whole.
These are allowed to take their wives, and even their

454 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
families with them, and places where they are to trap
during the season, on some favorable ground, are assigned
to them. These parties leave Vancouver in October and
return in May or June. They usually trap on shares,
and the portion they are to receive is defined by an
agreement,, the conditions of which depend very much
upon their skill. All the profits of the company depend
upon economical management ; for the quantity of pelfry
in this section of the country, and indeed it may be said
the fur trade on this side of the mountains, has fallen off
fifty per cent, within the last few years. It is reported
that the business at present is hardly worth pursuing.
The number of posts occupied by the Hudson's Bay
Company in this territory, is twenty-five. These are
located at the best points for trade, and so as to secure
the usual resorts of the Indians, without interfering with
their usual habits. The accompanying view of one of
these establishments, Fort Glossop, will serve to give a
general idea of their arrangement and appearance. It
may be questioned whether the trade of the Hudson's
Bay Company in Oregon yields any profit at present ;
but the Puget Sound Company, by the accumulation of
live stock, which is very rapid, is augmenting its wealth ;
and, in the event of the country becoming settled at a
future day, the farms and other land possessed by the
company must become very valuable, as the posts occupy
all the points most favorably situated for trade, and
the agricultural establishments have been placed in many
of the best positions for farming operations. The utmost
economy is practised in every department, and great
exertions are made to push the operations of the com
panies over a larger fie]d of action. By. means of their
credit and capital, they have established mercantile
houses at the Sandwich Islands and San Francisco, where
articles of every description imported in the vessels of
the company may be purchased.

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TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2. 455
Captain Wilkes left Vancouver in June, 1841, and
proceeded on an expedition up the valley of the Willa
mette river. The falls of the Willamette are about twenty
feet in height, and probably offer the best mill-sites to
be found in the country, besides being at the head of
navigation for sea vessels, and near the great wheats-
growing valley of the Willamette. A hardy pioneer
from the United States, a Mr. Moore, had taken posses
sion of the west side of the falls under a purchase from
an old Indian chief, and was speculating about the pro
bability of the Government recognizing his title, and the
subject of pre-emption rights often formed a topic of
conversation in the country.
At the time of Captain Wilkes's visit to the falls, the
salmon fishery was at its height, and formed a novel and
amusing scene. The salmon leap the fall ; and it would
be inconceivable, if not actually witnessed, how they can
force themselves up, and after a leap of from ten to
twelve feet, retain strength enough to stem the force of
the water above. About one in ten of those who jumped
would succeed in getting by. They are seen to dart off
from the foam beneath and reach about two-thirds of the
height at a single bound ; those that thus passed the apex
of the running water, succeed ; but all that fall short are
thrown back again into the foam.. Captain Wilkes had
never seen so many fish collected together before. The
Indians were, constantly employed in taking therm They
rig oat two strong poles long enough to project over the
foaming cauldron, and secure their larger ends to the
rocks. On the other end they make a platform for the
fisherman to stand on, who is perched on it with a pole,
thirty feet long in hand, to which the net is fastened by
a hoop, four feet in diameter. * The net is made to slide
on the hoop so as to close its mouth when the fisn is
taken. The mode of using the net is peculiar. They
throw it into the foam as far up the stream as they can
70

456 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
reach, and it being quickly carried down, the fish who
are running up in a contrary direction are caught. Some
times twenty large fish are taken by a single person in
an hour, and it is only surprising that more should not
be caught.
Passing above the falls, Captain Wilkes came to
Champooing, where, in a log hut, he found Mr. Johnson
Jiving with his children and a wife whom he considered
equal to half a dozen of the matrons of the civilized
world. Cleanliness, however, was not one of her virtues,
although her husband may not have accounted that as
one of the cardinal virtues. Passing several farms of old
servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, which generally
appeared thriving and comfortable, Captain Wilkes vis
ited successively the Catholic and Methodist missions.
Of the latter he says, it seemed an out-of-the-way place
to find persons of delicate habits struggling with diffi
culties such as they have to encounter, and overcoming
them with cheerfulness and good temper.
Of the different settlers in the valley of the Willamette,
those of French descent appeared the most happy, con
tented and comfortable; while those of the Anglo-Saxon
race manifested the eternally going ahead principle of
the American citizen. This part of the country has
great advantages for raising crops, pasturage of stock,
and facilities for the settlers to become rich; but there is
one objection to its ever becoming a large settlement, in
consequence of the interruption of the navigation of its
rivers in the dry season, which renders it difficult to get
to a market as well as to receive supplies.
Returning from the Willamette, Captain Wilkes set
out upon a new expedition, for the purpose of exploring
the Wallawalla valley and river. They set out in com
pany with one of the company's agents, Mr. Ogden,
who led them first to the cascades of the Columbia,
where his men astonished the Americans by their dis-

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2. 457
play of strength and management in surmounting the
rapids. In transporting the goods, the load is secured
on the back of a voyageur by a band which passes round
the forehead and over and under the bale. He squats
down, adjusts his load, and rises with ninety pounds on
his back ; another places ninety pounds more on top, and
off" he trots, half-bent, to the end of the portage. One
man, for a wager, carried six packages weighipg ninety
pounds each, on his back, one hundred yards.
Forty miles from the cascades they came to the Dalles,
near which is a Methodist mission.1 The Dailes may be
called the Billingsgate of Oregon. The diversity of dress
among the men was even greater than in the crowds
of natives which Captain Wilkes saw at the Polynesian
isles; but, he says, they lack the decency and care of
their persons which the islanders exhibit. The women
also go nearly naked, for they wear little else than what
may be termed a breechcloth of buckskin, which is black
and filthy with dirt ; and some few have a piece of a
blanket. The children go entirely naked, the boys wear
ing a small string round their bodies. To complete the
picture of the degree of their civilization, it is only neces
sary to add that some forty or fifty live in a temporary
hut, twenty feet by twelve, constructed of poles, mats
and cedar bark. '
The Dalles is one of the most remarkable places on
the Columbia. The river is here compressed into a nar
row channel, three hundred feet wide, and half a mile
long ; the walls are perpendicular, flat on the top, and
composed of basalt ; the river forms an elbow, being
situated in an amphitheatre, extending several miles to the
north-west, and closed in by a high basaltic wall. Be
sides the main channel, there are four or five other
small canals, through which the water passes when the
water. is high; these are but a few feet across. The
river falls about fifty feet in the distance of two miles,

458 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
and the greatest rise between high and low water mark
is sixty feet. This great rise is caused by the accumu
lation of water in the river above, which is dammed by
this narrow pass, and is constantly increasing until it
backs the waters, and overflows many low grounds and
islands above. A tremendous roar is constantly heard,
caused by the violence of the river and its whirlpools
and eddies. The number of Indians within the Dalles
is reckoned at about two thousand. In but few of these,
however, has any symptoms of reform manifested itself.
They frequent the three great salmon fisheries of the
Columbia ; the Cascades, the Dalles and the Chutes
rapids some distance further up the river. From the
Dalles upwards all along the Columbia to Walla walla,
there was only one tree seen growing, and except a log
or trunk occasionally drifting down, nothing larger than
a splinter of wood was seen. The wood used for cook
ing was brought there by the Indians, who would follow
the party for miles with a long pole or a billet of wood,
which they exchanged for a small piece of tobacco.
The country upwards continued to be as far as could be
seen, on both sides of the Columbia a barren and sterile
waste, covered with white sand, mixed with pebbles,
producing nothing but a little grass, some hard wood
and a species of small cactus, filled with long, white,
hard and sharp spires.
On approaching Wallawalla, the scenery changes into
bold grandeir. Fantastic peaks arise, either isolated or
in groups. Through a pass in the river which flows
rapidly through volcanic rocks, the wind rushes with
great violence in summer to restore the equilibrium in
the rarified atmosphere above. Nez Perce, or Fort
Wallawalla, is about two hundred feet square, and
fenced in with pickets having a gallery erected within,
along the walls, so high as to enable those inside to over
look the pickets and observe the surrounding country.

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2. 459
The party of Americans went as far .as the Grande
Ronde, a plain or mountain prairie, surrounded by high
basaltic walls. It is called by the Indians Karpkarp,
which is translated into Balm of Gilead. Its direction
from Wallawalla is east-south-east, and the road to the
United States passes through it. It is fifteen miles long
by twelve wide, and is the place where the Cayuse, Nez
Perce and Wallawalla Indians meet to trade with the
Snakes or Shoshones for roots, skin lodges, elk and buf
falo meat, in exchange for salmon and horses. The
Grande Ronde is likewise resorted to for the large quan
tities of camass root that grows there, and which consti
tutes a favorite food with all the Indians. The mission
aries at this place have quite a number of cattle and
horses, which require little or no attention, there being
an abundance of hay and grass.
On the banks of the Wallawalla timber re-appears,
chiefly poplar, willow, birch and alder, There seems to
be a peculiarity about the climate of Wallawalla not re-
dily accounted for. Little winter weather is experienced
here, the mildness being attributable to ,tfie hot winds of
the south, which sweep along from the extensive sandy
deserts existing in Upper California. This wind or si
moom during the summer is held in great drea9 in this
part of the country, for it is of a burning character that
is quite overpowering. It generally comes from the
south-west. In consequence; of this feature of the climate,
there is very little vegetation near the fort, not only on
account of the heat and dryness, but owing to the vast
clouds of drifting sand; which are frequently so great as
to darken the sky. In summer it blow's here constantly,
and at night the winds generally amount to a gale. At
the junction of-the Columbia and Snake rivers, the cur
rent of the Columbia flowing from the north is remark
ably cold, while that of the Snake river from the south
is warm. The difference is very perceptible even at

460 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
the Wallawalla, where the water passing along the east
shore, near the fort, is too warm to drink. When they
desire to have cold water for drinking it is necessary to
get it from the middle of the river by a canoe.
In May, 1841, Lieutenant Johnson, with a party of
companions attached to the Exploring Expedition, set out
on a journey to Okanagan, on the Columbia, by the way
of the Cascade Mountains below Nisqually. The per
severance and prudence of Lieutenant Johnson were
displayed to great advantage in the successful prosecu
tion of this expedition over the mountains, the possibility
of which was very much doubted. After great toil and
difficulty he reached Okanagan. This post and Spokane
were the first establishments of the American Fur Com
pany in Oregon. It was transferred first to the North
west Company, and then to the Hudson's Bay Company,
but it is now falling to decay, being only kept up as a
depot for supplies in connexion with the northern parts
of New California. Few furs are found in this neigh
borhood — this part of Middle Oregon being remarkable
for the scarcity of game and fur animals. After exam
ining the country of the Okanagan, Lieutenaut Johnson
extended his observations over a large extent of country,
of which the most important post is Fort Colville. This
is situated on the east bank of the Columbia, just above
the Kettle Falls, where the river is pent up between
rocks, and runs or rushes in a lateral channel, which
nearly encircles a level tract of land, containing about
two hundred acres of rich soil. This makes it superior,
for purposes of cultivation, to any other post on the up
per waters of the Columbia, and contrasts it very strongly
with Okanagan, where the country is so barren, and the
difficulty of transporting provisions so great, that the com
pany's servants subsist almost wholly upon salmon. The
cultivation of the crops at Fort Colville is almost the sole
object of attention, for the whole of the northern posts

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2. 461
depend upon this for supplies of provisions. It is said
to be 2200 feet above the level of the sea, a rise which
takes place within the space of five hundred miles, and is
unequalled in any other river of so great a size.
Sir Alexander McKensie has left us in his journal, the
most accurate description of Northern Oregon. Although
there are, no doubt, some parts of the regions north of the
inlet where he fell in with the sea, worth cultivating, and
though many tracts are covered with wood, even north
of Cook's Inlet, yet, except for fishing and for wild ani
mals, there appears to be little other value in the region
possessed by Russia, or that part of Oregon west of the
Rocky Mountains north of the parallel of 49° north la
titude. The glowing descriptions of Vancouver, and all
the accounts of land fit for cultivation and settlement by
Captain Wilkes, apply to lands south of that parallel.
All north of this is described by Vancouver as dreary,
rugged, and unfit for settlements. Of the parts of Ore
gon west of and within Admiralty Inlet, and south of
Vancouver's Islands, he says, to describe the beauties of
this region will, on some future occasion, be a very grate
ful task to some skilful panegyrist. The serenity of the
climate, the innumerable pleasing landscapes, and the
abundant fertility that unassisted nature puts forth, re
quire only to be enriched by the industry of man with
villages, mansions, cottages, and other buildings to render
it the most lovely country that can be imagined ; whilst
the labor of the inhabitants would be amply rewarded
in the beauties which nature seems ready tp bestow
on cultivation. Of the western shores north of 48° 29',
he gives the most cheerless and sterile character. It
presented, he says, a very different aspect from that we
had been accustomed to behold from the south. The
shores now before us were composed of steep rugged
rocks, whose surface varied exceedingly in respect to
height, and exhibited little more than the barren rock,
71

462 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
which in some places produced a little herbage of a dull
color, with a few dwarf trees.
Sir Alexander McKensie passed from Canada over
the waters and wildernesses of America to the height of
land which separates the Waters running into Hudson's
Bay from those flowing into the Pacific, one of the most
arduous and difficult journeys ever performed by man.
On the 12th of June, 1793, he left a small lake in lati
tude 54° 24' north, longitude 121° west, and crossed the
ridge from this plain, through a pass between rocky pre
cipices of no more than 817 paces over to a lake, from
whence its waters flowed to a branch of Frazer's river.
The canoe was carried over this portage, and then cross
ed overland to another lake. They embarked on the
lake by a portage, over which was a growth of large fir
and pine trees, and many fallen ones. Their progress
then became slow and arduous ; the stream by which
they descended was obstructed by terrific difficulties ;
they often had to cut a road through the thick forest and
make their way over swamps in order to pass by the
rocks, rapids, or other obstacles of the river, such -as be
ing choked up by fallen trees, carried down by the
floods. Their escapes seem almost marvellous. They
were frequently in danger of wanting food, and lived on
a limited allowance. The coolness and intrepidity of the
leaders braved all physical dangers, and tempered the
ferocity of unknown savages, until they finally reached
the waters of the Pacific. On the 22d of July, in lati
tude 52° 21', he painted his name and date with red ver
milion on a rock, and on the following day commenced
his return homewards. Our limits will not permit us to
follow Captain Wilkes into the detailed account of his
surveys of the Columbia river and the Ocean near its
mouth, nor can we here notice the voyages made for
purposes of discovery and exploration to the north-west
coast by the Spaniards and other Europeans. We shall.

Lieutenant Christopher Carson.— Page 463. '¦ '**"

464 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
therefore, conclude with a summary account of the ex
pedition of one who is entitled, perhaps, to outrank
even the great McKensie in the list of accomplished and
fearless travellers, Colonel John C. Fremont. No jour
nal of a traveller has yet been produced abounding more
in the most interesting and valuable information relative
to the climate, soil, geology, and natural history gener
ally of the countries traversed, than the well-written,
practical journals of Captain Fremont.
His party consisted of himself, Mr. Prenss, a German,
as assistant surveyor, a hunter named Maxwell, the fam
ous trapper Kit Carson, two youths as adventurers, and
some twenty men, chiefly Canadian voyagers and half-
breeds brought up in the service of the fur companies, and
habituated to life in the wilderness. After a journey of
extraordinary fatigue, Captain Fremont arrived at the
ascent of the southern pass of the Rocky Mountains.
The perils encountered on the rivers, the hostility of the
Indians, and the disturbed state of the north-west terri
tory, the hunting of buffaloes, the yarious phases of trap
per life, and the sufferings of emigrants on their way to
Oregon, the descriptions of the trading posts, the manner
of getting fresh horses in the place of those worn out by
the sufferings of the journey, are all described with an
eloquence and fidelity which must be read to be appre
ciated. The party reached Fort Laramie on the 15th of July,
1842, a post belonging to the American Fur Company,
built of clay after the fashion of the Mexicans. Captain
Fremont endeavored to bring up the map of the country
as fast as he passed over it, by means of astronomical ob
servations, but he was sadly interrupted. A succession of
visiters generally occupied his tent. The war spirit was
abroad, and various tribes were warring with each other,
without any objection to turn their knives against the
white travellers, if a keg of rum or a couple of horses

TRAVELS IN OREGON,

could be obtained thereby. Encompassed with dangers
at, every step of his journey, Captain Fremont preserved
a calm and resolute demeanor, and succeeded in avoid
ing hostilities throughout his expedition. The frequent
interruptions, of the Indians were occasioned by a num
ber of causes, sometimes not less,amusing than annoying.
Some came for presents, others for information as to his
object in coming into the territory. Now and then one
would dart up to the tent on horseback, jerk off his trap
pings, and stand silently at the door, holding his horse by
the halter, signifying " his desire to trade. Occasionally
a savage would stalk in with an invitation to a feast of
honor — a dog feast, and deliberately sit down and wait
quietly until I was ready to accompany him. I went to
one ; the women and children were sitting outside the
lodge, and we took our seats on buffalo robes spread
around. The dog was in a large pot over the fire, in
the, middle of the lodge, and immediately on our arrival
was dished up in large wooden bowls, one of which
was handed to each. The flesh appeared very glutinous,
with something of the flavor and appearance of mutton.
The astronomical instruments excited their wonder and
awe, the things employed in talking to the sun and stars
being undoubtedly " great medicine." They seemed to
become attached to the adventurous leader of the expe
dition, and earnestly dissuaded him from the prosecution
of the enterprise, assuring him that he would certainly
be cut off by hostile tribes. Nothing daunted, however,
he set out from Fort Laramie on the 21st July, keeping
the north fork of the Platte on the right and the Laramie
river on the left. He kept along the course of the Platte
until he came to the Red Buttes (July £9th), a famous
landmark, whose geological composition is red sandstone,
limestone, and calcareous sandstone, and pudding stone.
Here the river cuts its way through a ridge, on the east
ern side of which are the lofty escarpments of red argil
laceous sandstone called the Red Buttes.

466 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
Leaving the course of the Platte they crossed over to
the Sweet Water, and passing by Rock Independence,
and a place called the Devil's Gate, where the Sweet
Water cuts through a granite ridge, they came, on the
9th of August, to the summit of the Wind River Moun
tains, 7490 feet above the level of the sea, three hundred
and twenty miles from Fort Laramie. On these moun
tains are the head waters of four-great rivers of the con
tinent ; the Missouri and Platte rivers flowing to the
east, and the Columbia and Colorado to the west. After
spending some days in the effort, the leaders of the party
sncceeded in gaining the top of the highest peak, 13,510
feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexico. They mount
ed the barometer in the snow of the summit, and fixing
a ramrod in a crevice, unfurled the national flag to wave
in the breeze, where never flag waved before.
This point terminated the journey of Captain Fremont,
on his first expedition. In the succeeding year, he came
again to the same region upon a second tour of explora
tion, for the purpose of connecting his previous surveys
with those made by Captain Wilkes and the officers of
the United States Exploring Expedition. In the prose
cution of his mission, he had the pleasure of making the
first voyage ever made by a white man on the waters
of the Utah lake. When they looked from the summit
of a peninsular butte upon its waters, and regarded it as
an object of their anxious search, and as one of the great
points of the exploration, they thought they experienced
nearly the same feelings which must have stirred the
breasts of Balboa and his men when first they looked
upon the waters of the Western Ocean.
After leaving the lake they proceeded on their way
towards the Columbia, suffering the greatest privations
and hunger. They took in their way Fort Hall, Lewis's
river, the Grande Ronde and Wallawalla, and reached
Vancouver just as one of the Hudson's Bay Company's

TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2. 467
vessels was setting sail for England. Dr. McLaughlin
extended to them his ever ready hospitality, and fur
nished them with necessaries for the prosecution of their
proposed journey up the Fall river and over the moun
tain country to California. This was a serious enter
prise at the beginning of winter, with a party of twenty-
five persons, comprising Americans, French, Germans,
Canadians, Indians and negroes, but all confided in their
leader, and the journey was commenced in a spirit of
bravery, obedience and cheerfulness, which all the hard
ship they suffered failed to derogate from. Circum
stances forced them to deviate somewhat from fulfilling
the whole plan they had laid out, and they passed far to
the south and near to the Pacific Ocean, and along the
western base of the Sierra Nerada. Their route brought
them to traverse a number of the salt lakes of California.
From one of these, near the great Sierra, a remarkable
rock rose six hundred feet above the water, presenting
from the view the expedition had of it a pretty exact
outline of the great pyramid of Cheops. Like other
rocks along the shore, it seemed to be encrusted with
calcareous cement. The resemblance suggested a name,
and it was called Pyramid Lake.
Nearly the whole of this journey was made over
ground covered with snow, without forage for the cattle,
who when they starved to death were eaten by their
famished owners. The Indian guides would pilot them
for short distances, then point with their hands the direc
tion they should take, and desert them. They perse
vered, however, against every obstacle. With too good
an American for a leader, to go in any other direction
than that pointed out by duty, too brave men to be dis
couraged by hundreds of miles of untrodden snow, too
familiar with death to quail at his embrace, they perse
vered. But famine was their worst opponent. To form
an idea of their condition, to learn how much is due to

468 TRAVELS IN OREGON, NO. 2.
men who serve their country as pioneers in her western
wilds, it should be added that even among these iron-
hearted travellers, some wandered away from the camp
in a state of mental derangement induced by suffering,
plunged into the torrents, or wandered1 into forests.
Well might Colonel Fremont say that " the times were
hard when stout men lost their minds from extremity of
suffering — when horses died — and when mules and
horses, ready to die of starvation, were killed for food."

GREGORY'S GUIDE

FOR

CALIFORNIA TRAVELLERS.
yia
THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.

As such a large proportion of the " Universal Yankee
Nation," have a migratory tendency towards California
at the present time, it has become a matter of no little
interest to those persons about undertaking so important
an affair as a journey thither, to ascertain not only that
which will most conduce to their welfare on the route, but
also what measures are needful, to guard against imposi
tion and unnecessary delay.
Old travellers in the United States have found unfor-
seen vexations on this route, and it cannot therefore be
expected, that inexperienced persons without proper ad
vice, will fare any better.
With a, view of guiding all travellers to California by
the way of the Isthmus, the following directions have been
prepared, by one who has twice travelled this journey,
and who asks favor for them only, for their brevity and
correctness. Good health is essential to every one who
desires success in California, and the saving of expense,
is no small object with most travellers. It is confidently
believed that both results will be best attained by a
strict adherence to the following suggestions.

470 Gregory's guide for
From New York to Chagres, the route may be con
sidered plain sailing, and we will commence with the an
chorage off Chagres, which is usually from one to two
miles distant. The Steam Ship Company provide for the
landing of the passengers and their baggage, using the
ship's quarter-boats for the former', and the launch of the
Steamer Orus for the latter, conveying the whole to the
Orus, which vessel lands the passengers on what is called
the American side of the river. The captain of the Orus
is paid by the Steam Ship for landing both passengers
and baggage. Three or four taverns are kept at this
landing by white men, one or two of whom are Americans.
After seeing your baggage safely landed from the Orus,
your first object should be to secure a good canoe — one
holding four or five persons is the most preferable.
Then make your contract to convey yourself and bag
gage to Cruces, which will cost from thirty to forty dol
lars the trip, (six to eight dollars each person,) usually
occupying three days, during which time your pleasure
will be greatly enhanced, if you have been provident in
supplying yourself with a sufficient stock of provisions.
The ranehos and huts on the river banks are poor
" sights" for hungry travellers.
The sooner you set out with your canoe the better. If
you leave about noon, you will find Gatson about ten miles
up, a better place to remain over night than Chagres, and
perhaps it is the best on the river.
Should you leave Chagres early in the morning, you
may reach Vamos Vamos, about twenty miles distant
before night. On the west bank is a rancho, containing
two huts, called Blanquilla. This is about half way to
Cruces. The great secret of getting well up the river during the
day, is to get off early in the morning, and be liberal to
the men that work the canoe. You can coax, better than
drive them. At the end of about two days you will reach

CALIFORNIA TRAVELLERS. 471
Gorgona, where it is tempting to stay, but should you go
on shore there, you will experience great difficulty when
you are ready for a start, in getting your boatmen into
their canoe again. This is their worst fault generally.
From Gorgona to Cruces, it is about ten miles. At Gor
gona, interested persons will advise you to take the road
to Panama from that point. Pay no attention to such
advice, for that road is totally impassable for nine months
in the year.
Push on without delay to Cruces, and if you arrive there
in the morning, you will hardly be able to get on the
Panama road before the next morning. Meanwhile you
can call at Funk's and Pleise's houses.
They forward baggage by mules to Panama. Ascertain
their charge for sending it next morning, but let no pro
mises induce you to leave your baggage to be forwarded
after you, but see it start at least.
The above persons may ask ten or twelve dollars per
hundred pounds, but plenty of the natives can be had to
carry it at the rate of seven to eight dollars per one hun
dred pounds. If you employ a native, it is necessary for
you to have him sign an agreement, to fulfil his contract.
This you can get drawn in Spanish for twenty -five cents,
to which you must make him sign his mark, binding him
to deliver the baggage for the stipulated price, at Zacha-
risson Nelson & Co.'s office, Panama.
In two days you can walk to Panama and if desirable,
keep your trunk or baggage in view the whole time, but I
consider that quite unnecessary. Should you prefer riding, .
a mule would cost you from ten to sixteen dollars.

472

ARRIVAL AT PANAMA.
On arrival at Panama^ your first business is to ascertain
from the Agents when the Steamer is to leave, and if you
are to be delayed a week or more, it is advisable for four
or five persons to engage a room, with a cot in it for each,
and arrange for a supply of drinking water. All this will
cost a dime a day for each person. Taking meals at Res
taurants or Eating houses, a person may lodge in a good
room, and thus live moderately at about three and a half
dollars a week.
The day before the Steamer leaves, notice is posted up
by the Agents of the hour that passengers are required to
be at the Mole, in front of the Custom House.
Passengers are required to pay the expense of convey
ing themselves and their baggage to the Steamer.
Travellers in the Steamships between New York and
Chagres, are of course much better provided, than on the
Pacific Steamers. ,
Having the New York Markets to resort to, once in each
month, makes a very essential difference. The Pacific
Steamers are supplied-; with stores from New York, via
Cape Horn, with the exception of such as are obtainable
on the Pacific, coast.
PRIVATE STORES.
Steerage passengers will find one or two jars of pre
serves, and one or two pecks of dried fruit, (peaches or
apples,) very acceptable. A few jars of pickles, and a
few pounds of Milk, Soda, or Butter crackers, some Bo
logna Sausages and Cheese, a Ham and a piece of Smoked
Beef, would not only prove very palatable and comfort
able, but more agreeable in case of sea-sickness than
Ship's fare.

CALIFORNIA TRAVELLERS. 473
The climate is too warm for butter to keep well. Gin
gerbread and fruit cake, sick or well, never comes amiss
on the trip to Chagres, and would certainly prove welcome
for two or three days on the Isthmus. For di'Luw, Limes
can be had at houses on the Isthmus for lemonade, or
if preferred, bottled ale and porter.
Take sufficient of coffee, tea, loaf sugar, &c, for five
days' consumption in crossing the Isthmus, and should there
be anything left of your stores on arriving at Panama, any
thing you have is preferable to tropical fruit, which should
be avoided by all- means.
A similar outfit of provisions is desirable for the steer
age on the Pacific, and more so, for reasons before stated ;
each steerage passenger is provided with his own plate,
knife and fork, spoon, drinking-cup, mattrass and
pillow. During the delay, (always more or less at Panama,) per
sons who regard their health, will avoid exposure or hard
work in the sun, during the middle of the day. Perhaps
more persons have died from imprudence in this respect
than from any other cause. It is considered highly dan
gerous, and by many residents on the Isthmus' as almost
certain death, to drink ardent spirits after eating tropical
fruit, as it produces fermentation in the bowels, which
seems to defy the influence of all medical skill.
The use of milk should be avoided, in every form, while
on the Isthmus. Numerous cases of distressing illness, are
known from its use.
Light clothing, such as is worn in the United States,
during the Summer months, is all sufficient for travelling
purposes, from three days out of New York, to within five
or six days short of San Francisco, after which, the usual
warm clothing will be necessary.
In consequence of the great and bitter disappointment
incurred by many persons, in being delayed, for weeks and
months in Panama, it has become indispensably necessary,

474 Gregory's guide for
for each person to be provided with a ticket for the Pacific
Steamer, before leaving New York, which can be procured
thus, at the office of the Company, 54 South street, New
York. For want of this precaution, many have been compelled
to wait at Panama, until they could send for a ticket to the
above Office, and some persons have been obliged to return
for this object, at a great sacrifice of both time and money.
The expense of landing at San Francisco, is borne by
each passenger ; the Steamer coming to anchor as near the
city as the landing is safe and practicable.
This route to California, although more expensive than
that by the way of Cape Horn, is by far the most desira
ble for those who can afford the additional outlay, requisite,
for many reasons ; not the least of which is, the very
great saving of time in making the trip, and the avoiding
of a tedious and monotonous life on shipboard. The voy
age by the way of Cape Horn will occupy on an average,
five or six months, while by the Isthmus route, the trip is
accomplished in as many weeks, and to most persons pre
sents varied scenes of no ordinary pleasure. The voyage
up the Chagres River, has been by some persons execrated
in tolerably strong terms, not to say diabolical. As far
as my own feelings were concerned, I must assert that I
received the greatest pleasure and never beheld more mag
nificent scenery, or luxuriant vegetation, than I witnessed
while upon this river. Nature here appears to have been
most lavish in her efforts, and to have succeeded beyond
her most sanguine expectations, and it would appear almost
impossible that any, the most unimaginative being upon
the 'earth, could here remain unmoved, or find no pleasure
in viewing her mighty works. All travellers however, do
not think alike, and some so very difficult to please, com
plain even of the alligators they heard of on the river.
As my object however, is to present to future Califor-

CALIFORNIA TRAVELLERS. '475
nia travellers, clear and correct information concerning
the Isthmus route, in as condensed a form as possible, as
well as matters that if attended to, concern their personal
comfort and will save outlay of money ; any speculations
foreign to such a purpose, would here be out of place.
Besides, the press of the country, has for a long time past,
through their numerous correspondents, given such varied
and graphic descriptions of many points of interest on
this route, that most persons of ordinary intelligence have
become somewhat familiar with them.
After a perusal of the foregoing, any practical man
can before leaving home, estimate very nearly what his
expenses will amount by the time he lands in San Fran
cisco. Some allowance for detention at Panama should be
made, which you can easily estimate after learning from
the Steam Ship Company in New York, on what day the
Steamer will leave Panama. ^
As a matter of course, no prudent person will under
take so long a journey without making some provision in
his calculations, for unforseen events, that may require
some outlay beyond the estimate of his entire expenses.
Any surplus of funds he may have on hand on his arrival
at San Francisco, will not be found very burthensome, and
he may feel quite sure, that his money will not trouble
him long, if he remains, even for a little while, in a state
of masterly inactivity.
Hoping that the foregoing remarks may prove service
able, and a useful guide to the travelling public — •*•
I remain Their Humble Servant,
JOSEPH W. GREGORY,
Proprietor of Gregory's
California and JVew York Express*

Missing Page

Missing Page

The Great Seal of the State of California.

479

OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNU.

Proclamation to the People of California.
The delegates of the people, assembled in Convention,
have formed a constitution, which is now presented for
your ratification. The time and manner of voting on this
constitution, and of holding the first general election, are
clearly set forth in the schedule. The whole subject is,
therefore, left for your unbiassed and deliberate con
sideration. The Prefect (or person exercising the functions of that
office) of each district, will designate the places for opening
the polls, and give due notice of the election, in accord
ance with the provisions of the constitution and schedule.
The people are now called upon to form a government
for themselves, and to designate such officers as they de
sire, to make and execute the laws. That their choice
may be wisely made, and that the government so organized
may secure the permanent -welfare and happiness of the
people of the new State, is the sincere and earnest wish of
the present Executive, who, if the constitution be ratified,
will, with pleasure, surrender his powers to whomsoever
the people may designate as his successor.
Given -at Monterey, California, this 12th day of Octo
ber, A. D., 1849. (Signed) B. Riley,
Brevet Brig. General, U. S. A.,- and Governor of
California. ,
(Official) H. W. Halleck,
Brevet Captain and Secretary of State.

480 CONSTITUTION OF THE
We, the People of California, grateful to Almighty
God for. our freedom, in order to secure its blessings,
do establish this Constitution :¦ —
ARTICLE I.
DECLARATION OF RIGHTS.
Sec 1. All men are by nature free and independent,
and have certain inalienable rights, among which are those
of enjoying and defending life and liberty, acquiring, pos
sessing and protecting property, and pursuing and obtain
ing safety and happiness.
Sec 2. All political power is inherent in the people.
Government is instituted for the protection, security and
benefit of the people ; and they have the right to alter or
reform the same, whenever the public good may require it.
Sec 3. The right of trial by jury shall be secured to
all, and remain inviolate forever ; but a jury trial may be
waived by the parties, in all civil cases, in the manner to
be prescribed by law.
Sec 4. The free exercise and enjoyment of religious
profession and worship, without discrimination or prefer
ence, shall forever, be allowed in this State ; and no per
son shall be rendered incompetent to be a witness on
account of his opinions on matters of religious belief ; but
the liberty of conscience, hereby secured, shall not be so
construed as to excuse acts of licentiousness, or justify
practices inconsistent with the peace or safety of this State.
Sec 5. The privilege of the writ of habeas corpus shall
not be suspended, unless when, in cases of rebellion or
invasion, the public safety may require its suspension.
SEq. 6. Excessive bail shall not be required, nor ex
cessive fines imposed, nor shall cruel or unusual punish
ments be inflicted, nor shall witnesses be unreasonably
detained. -

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 481
Sec. 7. All persons shall be bailable, by sufficient sure
ties : unless for capital offences, when the proof is evident
or. the presumption great.
Sec 8. No person shall be held to answer for a capital
or otherwise infamous crime (except. in cases of impeach
ment, and in cases of militia when in actual service, and
the land and navel forces in time of war, or which this
State may keep with the consent of Congress in time of
peace, and in cases of petit larceny under the regulation
of the Legislature,) unless on presentiment or indictment
of a grand jury ; and in any trial in any court whatever,
the party accused shall be allowed to appear and defend
in person and with counsel, as in civil actions. No person
shall be subject to be twice put in jeopardy for the same
offence ; nor shall he be compelled, in any criminal case,
to be a witness against himself, nor be deprived of life,
liberty,1 or property, without due process of law ; nOr shall
private property be taken for public use without just
compensation. Sec 9. Every citizen may freely speak, write and pub
lish his sentiments on all subjects, being responsible for
the abuse of that right ; and no law shall be passed to
restrain or abridge the liberty of speech or of the press.
In all criminal prosecutions on indictments for libels, the
truth may be given in evidence to the jury ; and if it shall
appear to the jury that the matter charged as libellous is
true, and was published with good motives and for justifi
able ends, the party shall be acquitted : and the jury shall
have the right to determine the law and" the fact.
Sec 10. The people shall have the right freely to
assemble together, to consult for the common good, to
instruct their representatives, and to .petition the legisla
ture for redress of grievances.- \
Sec 11. All laws of a general nature stall have a
uniform operation.

482 CONSTITUTION OF THE
Sec 12. The military shall be subordinate to the civil
power. No standing army- shall be kept up by this State
in time of peace ; and in time of war no appropriation for
a standing army shall be for a longer time than two years.
Sec 13. No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quar
tered in any house, without the consent of the owner ;
nor in time of war, except in the manner to be prescribed
by law.
Sec 14. Representation shall be apportioned accord
ing to population.
Sec 15. No person shall be imprisoned for debt, in
any civil action on mesne or final process, unless in cases
of fraud ; and ho person shall be imprisoned for a milita
fine in time of peace.
Sec 16. No bill of attainder, ex post facto law, or law
impairing the obligation of contracts, shall ever be passed.
Sec 17. Foreigners who are, or who may hereafter
become, bona fide residents of this State, shall enjoy the
same rights in respect to the possession, enjoyment and
inheritance of property, as native born citizens.
Sec 18. JVeither slavery, nor involuntary servitude,
unless for the punishment of crimes, shall ever be tole
rated in this State.
Sec 19. The right of the people to be secure in their
persons, houses, papers and effects* against unreasonable
seizures and searches, shall not be violated ; and no war
rant shall issue but on probable cause, supported by oath
or affirmation, particularly describing the place to be
searched, and the persons and things to be seized.
Sec 20. Treason against the State shall consist only
in levying war against it, adhering to its enemies, or giv
ing them aid and comfort. No person shall be convicted of
treason, unless on the evidence of two witnesses to the
same overt act, or confession in open court.

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 483
Sec. 21. This enumeration of rights shall not be con
strued to impair or deny others retained by the people.
ARTICLE II.
RIGHT OF SUFFRAGE.
Sec 1. Every white male citizen of the United States,
and every white male citizen of Mexico, who shall have
elected to become a citizen of the United States, under the
treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, on
the 30th day of May, 1848, of the age of twenty-one
years, who shall have been a resident of the State six
months next preceding the election, and the county or dis
trict in which he claims his vote thirty days, shall be en
titled to vote at all elections which are now or hereafter
may be authorized by law : Provided, that nothing herein
contained shall be construed to prevent the Legislature,
by a two-thirds concurrent vote, from admitting to the
right of suffrage, Indians or the descendants of Indians,
in such special cases as such a proportion of the legisla
tive body may deem just and proper.
Sec 2. Electors shall, on all cases except treason,
felony, or breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest
on the days of the election, during their attendance at
such election, going to and returning therefrom.
Sec 3. No elector shall be obliged to perform militia
duty on the day of election, except in time of war or pub
lic danger.
Sec 4. For the purpose of voting, no person shall be
deemed to have gained or lost a residence by reasonof his
presence or absence while employed in the service of
the United States ; nor while engaged in the navigation
of the waters of this State, or of the United States, or
of the high seas ; nor while a student of any seminary
of learning ; nor while kept at any almshouse, or other

484 CONSTITUTION OF THE
asylum, at public expense ; nor while confined in any
public prison.
Sec 5. No idiot or insane person, or person convicted
of any infamous crime, shall be entitled to the privileges
of an elector.
Sec 6. All elections by the people shall be by ballot.
ARTICLE III.
DISTRIBUTION OF POWERS.
The powers of the government of the State, of Califor
nia shall be divided into three separate departments : the
Legislature, the Executive, and Judicial ; and no person
charged with the exercise of powers properly belonging to
one of these departments, shall exercise any functions ap
pertaining to either of the others; except in the cases
hereinafter expressly directed or permitted.
ARTICLE IV.
LEGISLATIVE DEPARTMENT.
Sec 1. The legislative power of this State shall be
vested in a Senate and Assembly, which shall be designa
ted the Legislature of the State of California, and the en
acting clause of every law shall be as follows : " The peo
ple of the State of California, represented in Senate and
Assembly, do enact as follows."
Sec 2. The sessions of the Legislature shall be annual,
and shall commence on the first Monday of January, next
ensuing the election of its members ; unless the Governor
of the State shall, in the interim, convene the Legislature
by proclamation.
Sec 3. The members of the Assembly shall be chosen
annually, by the qualified electors of their respective dis
tricts, on the Tuesday next after the first Monday in No
vember, unless otherwise ordered by the Legislature, and
their term of office shall be one year.

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 485
¦Sec. 4-. Senators and members of Assembly shall be
duly qualified electors in the respective counties and dis
tricts which they represent.
Sec 5. Senators shall, be chosen for the term of two
years, at the same time and places as members of Assem
bly ; and no person shall be a member of the Senate or
Assembly, who has not been a citizen and inhabitant of
the State one year, and of the county or district for which
he shall be chosen, six months next before his election.
Sec 6. The number of Senators shall not be less than
one third, nor more than one half, of that of the members
of Assembly ; and at the first session of the Legislature
after this Constitution takes effect, the Senators shall be
divided by lot as equally as may be, into two classes ; the
seats of the Senators of the first class shall be vacated at
the expiration of the first year, so that one half shall be
chosen annually.
Sec 7. When the number of Senators is increased)
they shall be apportioned by lot, so as to keep the two
classes as nearly equal in number as possible.
Sec 8. Each house shall choose its own officers, and
judge of the qualifications, elections, and returns of its
own members.
Sec 9. A majority of each house shall constitute &
quorum to do business ; but a smaller number may adjourn
from day to day, and may compel the attendance of absent
members, in such manner, and under such penalties as
each house may provide.
Sec 10. Each house shall determine the rules of its
own proceedings, and may with the concurrence of two-
thirds of all the members elected, expel a member.
Sec 11. Each house shall keep a journal of its own
proceedings, and publish the same ; and the yeas and nays
of the members of either house, on any question, shall.

486 CONSTITUTION OF THE
at the desire of any three members present, be entered on
the journal.
Sec 12. Members of the Legislature shall, in all eases
except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be priv
ileged from arrest, and they shall not be subject to any
civil process during the session of the Legislature, nor for
fifteen days next before the commencement and after the
termination of each session.
Sec 13. When vacancies occur in either house, the
Governor, or the person exercising the functions of the
Governor, shall issue writs of election to fill such vacan-
cies. Sec 14. The doors of each house shall be open, except
on such occasions as in the opinion of the house may re
quire secrecy.
Sec 15. Neither house shall, without the consent of the
other, adjourn for more than three days, nor to any other
place than that in which they may be sitting.
Sec 16. Any bill may originate in, either house of the
Legislature, and all bills passed by one house may be
amended in the other.
Sec 17. Every bill which may have passed the Legis
lature, shall, before it becomes a law, be presented to the
Governor. If he approve it, he shall sign it j but if not,
he shall return it, with his objections, to the house in which
it originated, which shall enter the same upon the journal,
and proceed to reconsider it. If, after such reconsidera
tion, it again pass both houses, by yeas and nays,' by a
majority of two thirds of the members of each house pres
ent, it shall become a law, notwithstanding the Governor's
objections. If any bill shall not be returned within ten
days after it shall have been presented to him, (Sunday ex
cepted,) the same shall be a law, in like manner as if he
had signed it, unless the Legislature, by adjournment,
prevent such return.

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 48?
Sec. 18. The Assembly shall have the sole power of
impeachment ; and all impeachments shall be tried by the
Senate. When sitting for that purpose, the Senators shall
be upon oath or affirmation ; and no person shall be con
victed without the concurrence of two-thirds of the mem
bers present.
Sec 19. The Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secre
tary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General,
Surveyor General, Justices of the Supreme Court and
Judges of the District Courts, shall be liable to impeach
ment for any misdemeanor in office ; but judgement in such
cases shall extend only to removal from office, and disqual
ification to hold any office of honor, trust or profit, under
the State; but the party convicted, or acquitted, shall
nevertheless ifoe liable to indictment, trial and punishment,
according to law. All other civil officers shall be tried for
misdemeanors in office, in such manner as the Legislature
may provide.
Sec 20. No Senator or member of Assembly shall,
during the term for which he shall have been elected, be
appointed to any civil office of profit, under this State,
which shall have been created, or the emoluments of which
shall have been increased, during sueh term, except such
office as may be filled by elections by the people.
Sec 21. No person holding any lucrative office under
the United States, or any other power, shall be eligible to
any civil office of profit, under this State ; provided, that
officers in the militk, to which there is attached no annual
salary, or local officers and postmasters whose compensa
tion does not exceed five hundred dollars per annum, shall
not be deemed lucrative.
Sec. 22. No person who shall be convicted of the em
bezzlement or defalcation of the publie funds of this State,
shall ever be eligible to any office of honor, trust, or profr
it, under the State ; and the Legislature shall, as soon as

488 CONSTITUTION OF THE
practicable, pass a law providing for the punishment of
such embezzlement, or defalcation, as a felony.
Sec 23. No money shall be drawn from the Treasury
but in consequence of appropriations made by law. An
accurate statement of the receipts and expenditures of the
public moneys shall be attached to, and published with,
the laws, at every regular session of the Legislature.
Sec 24. The members of the Legislature shall receive
for their services, a compensation to be fixed by law, and
paid out of the public treasury ; buit no increase of the
compensation shall take effect during the term for which'
the members of either house shall have been elected.
Sec 25. Every law enacted by the Legislature, shall
embrace but one object, and that shall be expressed in the
title : and no law shall be revised, or amended, by refer
ence to its title j but in such case, the aict revised, or sec
tion amended, shall be re-enacted and published at length.
Sec 26. No divorce shall be granted by the Legisla
ture. Sec 27. No lottery shall be- authorised by this Statfe,
nor shall the sale of lottery tickets be allowed.
Sec. 28. The enumeration of the inhabitants of this
State shall be taken, under the direction of the Legisla
ture, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two,
and one thousand eight hundred and fifty-five,, and at the
end of every ten years thereafter ; and these enumerations,
together with the census that may be taken, under the di
rection of the Congress of the United States, in the year
©ne thousand eight hundred and fifty, and every subse
quent ten years, shall serve as the basis of representation
in both houses of the Legislature.
Sec 29. The number of Senators and members of As
sembly, shall, at the first session of the Legislature, hold'en
after the enumeration herein provided for- are madej &e

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 489
fixed by the Legislature, and apportioned among the several
counties and districts to be established by law, according
to the number of white inhabitants. The number of mem
bers of Assembly shall not be less than twenty-four, nor
more than thirty-six, until the number of inhabitants with
in this State shall amount to one hundred thousand : and
after that period, at such ratio that the whole number of
members of Assembly shall never be less than thirty, nor
more than eighty.
Sec 30. When a congressional, senatorial, or assembly
district, shall be composed of two or more counties, it
shall not be separated by any county belonging to another
district ; and no county shall be divided, in forming a con
gressional, senatorial, or assembly district.
Sec 31. Corporations may be formed under general
laws, but shall not be created by special act, except for
municipal- purposes. All general laws and special acts
passed pursuant to this section may be altered from time
to time, or repealed.
Sec 32. Dues from corporations shall be secured by
such individual liability of the corporators, and other
means, as may be prescribed by law.
Sec 33. The term corporations; as used in this article,
shall be construed to include all associations and joint-stock
companies, having any of the powers or privileges of cor
porations not possessed by individuals or partnerships.
And all corporations shall have the right to sue, and shall
be subject to be sued, in all courts,, in Uke cases as natu
ral persons.
Sec 34. The Legislature shall have no power to pass any
act granting any charter for banking purposes ; but asso
ciations may be formed under general laws, for the deposite
of gold and silver ; but no such association shall make,
issue, or put in circulation, any bill, check, tickets, certifi-

490 CONSTITUTION OF THE
cate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any
bank, to circulate as money.
Sec 35. The Legislature of this State shall prohibit,
by law, any person or persons, association, company, or
corporation, from exercising the privileges of banking, or
creating paper to circulate as money.
Sec 36. Each stock-holder of a corporation/ or joint-
stock association, shall be individually and /personally
liable for his proportion of all its debts and liabilities'.
Sec 37. It shall be the duty of the Legislature to pro
vide for the organization of cities and incorporated vil
lages, and to restrict their power of taxation, assessment,
borrowing money, contracting debts, and loaning their
credit, so as to prevent abuses in assessments, and in con
tracting debts by such municipal corporations.
Sec 38. In all elections by the legislature, the mem
bers thereof shall vote viva voce, and the votes shall be
entered on the journal. ARTICLE V.
EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT.
Sec 1. The supreme executive power of this State
shall be vested in a chief magistrate, who- shallbe styled
the Governor of the State of California.
Sec 2. The Governor shall be elected by the qualified
electors, at the time and places of voting for members of
Assembly, and shall hold his office two years from the
time of his installation, and until his successor shall be
qualified. Sec 3. No person shall be eligible to the office of Gov
ernor, (except at the first election) who has not been a citi
zen of the United States and a resident of this State two
years next preceding the election, and attained the age of
twenty-five years at the time of said election.

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 49J
Sec 4. The returns of every election for Governor
shall be sealed up and transmitted to the seat of govern
ment, directed to the Speaker, of the Assembly, who shall,
during the first week of the session, open and publish them
in presence of both houses of the legislature. The per
son having the highest number of votes shall be Governor;
but in case any two or more have an equal and the highest
number of Votes, the Legislature shall,, by joint-vote of
both houses, choose one of said persons, so having an equal
and the. highest number of votes, for Governor.
Sec 5. The Governor shall be commander-in-chief of
the militia, the army, and navy, of this State.
Sec 6. He shall transact all executive business with
the officers of government, civil and military, and may
require information in writing from the officers of the ex
ecutive department, upon any subject relating to the duties
of the respective offices.
Sec 7. He shall see that the laws are faithfully
executed. Sec 8. When any office shall, from any cause, become
vacant, and no mode is provided by the constitution and
laws for filling such vacancy, the Governor shall have
power to fill such vacancy by granting a commission,
which shall expire at the end of the next session of the
Legislature, or at the next election by the people.
Sec 9. He may, on extraordinary occasions, convene
the Legislature by proclamation, and shall state to both
houses, when assembled, the purpose for which they shall
have been convened.
Sec 10. He shall communicate by message to the
Legislature, at every session, the condition of the State,
and recommend such matters as he shall deem expedient. '
Sec. 11. In case of a disagreement between the two
houses, with respect to the time of adjournment, the Gov-

492 CONSTITUTION OF THE
ernor shall have power to adjourn the Legislature to such
time as he may think proper ; Provided it be not beyond
the time fixed for the meeting of the next Legislature.
Sec 12. No person shall, while holding any office under
the United States, or this State, exercise the office of Gov
ernor, except as hereinafter expressly provided.
Sec 13. The Governor shall have the power to grant
reprieves, and pardons after conviction, for all offences
except treason, and cases of impeachment, upon such con
ditions, and with such restrictions and limitations, as he
may think proper, subject to such regulations as may be
provided by law relative to the manner of applying for
pardons. Upon conviction for treason he shall have "the
power to suspend the execution of the sentence until the
case shall be reported to the Legislature at its next meet
ing, when the Legislature shall either pardon, direct the
execution of the sentence, or grant a further reprieve. He
shall communicate to the Legislature, at the beginning of
every session, every case of reprieve, or pardon granted,
stating the name of the convict,* the crime of which he was
convicted, the sentence and its date, and the date of the
pardon or reprieve.
Sec. 14. There shall be a seal of this State, which
shall be kept by the Governor, and used by him officially,
and it shall be called " The great seal of the State of
California." Sec 15. All grants and commissions shall be in the
name and by the authority of the people of the State of
California, sealed with the great seal of the State, signed
by the Governor, and countersigned by the Secretary of
State. Sec 16. A Lieutenant Governor shall be elected at
the same time and place, and in the same manner as the
Governor ; and his term of office, and his qualifications of
eligibility shall, also be the same. He shall be President

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 493
of the Senate, but shall only have a casting vote therein.
If, during a vacancy of the office of Governor, the Lieu
tenant Governor shall be impeached, displaced, resign, die,
or become incapable of performing the duties of his office,
or be absent from the State,, the President of the Senate
shall act as Governor, until the vacancy be filled, or the
disability shall cease.
Sec 17. In case of the impeachment of the Governor,
or his removal from office, death, inability to discharge the
powers and duties of the said office, resignation or absence
from the State, the powers and duties of the office shall
devolve upon the Lieutenant Governor for the residue of
the term, or until the disability shall cease. But when the
Governor shall, with the consent of the Legislature, be out
of the State in time of war, at the head of any military
force thereof, he shall continue commander-in-chief of all
the military force of the State.
Sec 18. A Secretary of State, a Comptroller, a Treas
urer, an Attorney General and Surveyor General, shall
be chosen in the manner provided in this Constitution ;
and the term of office, and eligibility of each, shall be the
same as are prescribed for the Governor and Lieutenant
Governor. Sec 19. The Secretary of State shall be appointed by
the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the
Senate. He shall keep a fair record of the official acts of
the Legislature and Executive Departments of the Gov
ernment ; and shall, when required, lay the same, and all
matters relative thereto, before either branch of the Legis
lature: and shall perform such other duties as shall be
assigned him by law.
Sec 20. The Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney Gen
eral and Surveyor General, shall be chosen by joint vote
of the two houses of the Legislature, at their first session
under this Constitution, and thereafter shall be elected at

494 CONSTITUTION OF THE
the same time and places, and in the same manner, as tho
Governor and Lieutenant Governor.
Sec 21. The Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secre
tary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General,
and Surveyor General, shall each at stated times during
their continuance in office, receive for their services a com
pensation, which shall not be increased or diminished
during the term for which they shall have been elected ;
but neither of these officers shall receive for his own use
any fees for the performance of his official duties.
ARTICLE VI.
JUDICIAL DEPARTMENT.
Sec 1. The judicial power of this State shall be vested
in a Supreme Court, in District Courts, in County Courts,
and in Justices of the Peace. The Legislature may also .
establish such municipal and other inferior courts as may
be deemed necessary.
Sec 2. The supreme Court shall consist of a Chief
Justice, and two Associate Justices, any two of whom shall
constitute a quorum.
Sec 3. The Justices of the Supreme Court shall be
elected at the general election, by the qualified electors of
the State, and shall hold their office for the term of six
years from the first day of January next after their elec
tion ; provided that the Legislature shall, at its first meet
ing, elect a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices of
the Supreme Court, by joint -vote of both houses, and so
classify them that one shall go out of office every two
years. After the first election, the senior Justice in com
mission shall be the Chief Justice.
Sec 4. The Supreme Court shall have appellate juris
diction in all cases when the matter in dispute excaeds two
hundred dollars, when the legality of any tax, toll, or im
post or municipal fine is in question : and in all criminal

aM

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 495
cases amounting to felony, or questions of law alone.
And the said court, and each of the Justices thereof, aa
well as all district and county judges, -shall have power to
issue writs of habeas corpus, at the instance of any person
held in actual custody. They shall also have power to
issue all other writs and process necessary to the exercise
of the appellate jurisdiction, and shall be conservators of
the peace throughout the State.
Sec 5. The State shall be divided by the first Legisla
ture into a convenient number of districts, subject to such
alteration from time to time as the public good may re
quire ; for each of which a district judge shall be appoint
ed by the joint vote of the legislature, at its first meeting,
who shall hold his office for two years from the first day of
January next after his election ; after which, said judges
shall be elected by the qualified electors of their respective
districts, at the general election, and shall hold their office
for the term of six years.
Sec 6. The District Courts shall have original juris
diction, in law and equity, in all civil cases where the
amount in dispute exceeds two hundred dollars, exclusive
of interest. In all criminal cases not otherwise provided
for, and in all issues of fact joined in the probate courts,
their jurisdiction shall be unlimited.
Sec 7. The legislature shall provide for the election,
by the people, of a Clerk of the Supreme Court, and
County Clerks, District Attorneys, Sheriffs, Coroners, and
other necessary officers ; and shall fix by law their duties
and compensation. — County Clerks shall be, ex-officio,
Clerks of the District Courts in and for their respective
counties. Sec 8. There shall be elected in each of the organised
counties of this State, one County Judge who shall hold
his office for four years. He shall hold the County Court,
and perform the duties of Surrogate, or Probate Judge.

496 CONSTITUTION OF THE
The County Judge, with two Justices of the Peace, to be
designated according to law, shall hold courts of sessions,
with such criminal jurisdiction as the Legislature shall pre
scribe, and he shall perform such other duties as shall be
required by law.
Sec 9. The County Courts shall have such jurisdic
tion, in ,- cases arising in Justices Courts, and in special
cases, as the Legislature may prescribe, but shall have no
original civil jurisdiction, except in such special cases.
Sec 10. The times and places of holding the terms of
the Supreme Court, and the general and special terms of
the District Courts within the several districts, shall be
provided for by law.
Sec 11. No judicial officer, except a Justice of the
Peace, shall receive, to his own use, any fees, or perquis
ites of office.
Sec 12. The Legislature shall provide for the speedy
publication of all statute laws, and of such judicial decis
ions as it may deem expedient ; and all laws and judicial
decisions shall be free for publication by any person.
Sec 13. Tribunals for conciliation may be established,
with such powers and duties as may be prescribed by law ;
but such tribunals shall have no power to render judgment
to be obligatory on the parties, except they voluntarily
submit their matters in difference, and agree to abide the
judgment, or assent thereto in the presence of such tribu
nal, in such cases as shall be prescribed by law.
Sec 14. The Legislature shall determine the number
of Justices of the Peace, to be elected in each county, city,
town, and incorporated village of the State, and fix by law
their powers, duties, and responsibilities. It shall also
determine in what cases appeals may be made from Justi
ces' Courts to the County Court.
Sec. 15. The Justices of the Supreme Court, and

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 497
Judges of the District Court, shall severally, at stated
times during their continuance in office, receive for their
services a compensation, to be paid out of the treasury,
which shall not be increased or diminished during the term
for which they shall have been elected. The county Judges .
shall also severally, at stated times, receive for their ser
vices a compensation to be paid out of the county treasury
of their respective counties, which shall not be increased
or diminished during the term for which they shall have
been elected.
Sec 16. The Justices of the Supreme Court and Dis
trict Judges shall be ineligible to any other office, during
the term for which they shall have been elected.
Sec 17. Judges shall not charge juries' with respect to
matters of fact, but may state the testimony and declare
the law.
Sec 18. The style of all process shall be " The Peo
ple of the State of California;" all the prosecutions shall
be conducted in the name and by the authority of the
same.
ARTICLE VII.
MILITIA.
Sec 1. The legislature shall provide by law, for organ
izing and disciplining the militia, in such manner as they
shall deem expedient, not incompatible with the constitu
tion anddaws of the United States-.
Sec 2. Officers of the militia shall be elected, or ap
pointed, in such manner as the legislature shall from time
to time direct ; and shall be commissioned by the governor.
Sec 3. The governor shall have power to call forth the
militia, to execute the laws of the State, to suppres insur
rections and repel invasions.

498 CONSTITUTION OF THE
ARTICLE VIII.
STATE DEBTS.
The Legislature shall not in any manner create any debt
or debts, liability or liabilities, which shall singly, or in
the aggregate, with any previous debts or liabilities, exceed
the sum of three hundred thousand dollars, except in case
of war, to repel invasion, or suppress insurrection, unless
the same shall be authorized by some law for some single
object or work, to be distinctly specified therein, which law
shall provide ways and means, exclusive of loans, for the
payment of the interest of such debt or liability, as it falls
due, and also pay and discharge the principal of such debt
or liability within twenty years from the time of the con
tracting thereof, and shall be irrepealable until the princi
pal and interest thereon shall be paid and discharged ; but
no such law shall take effect until, at a general election, it
shall have been submitted to the people, and have received
a majority of all the votes cast for and against it at such
election ; and all money raised by authority of such law
shall be applied only to the specific object therein stated,
or to the payment of the debt thereby created ; and such
law shall be published in at least one newspaper in each
judicial district, if one be published therein, throughout
the State, for three months next preceeding the election at
which it is submitted to the people.
ARTICLE IX.
EDUCATION.
Sec 1. The Legislature shall provide for the election,
by the people, of a Superintendent of Public Instruction,
who shall hold his office for three years, and whose duties
shall be prescribed by law, and who shall receive such
compensation as the Legislature may direct.
Sec 2. The Legislature shall encourage, by all suit-

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 499
able means, the promotion of intellectual, scientific, moral
and agricultural improvement. The proceeds of all lands
that may be granted by the United States to this State for
the support of schools, which may be sold or disposed of,
and the five hundred thousand acres of land granted to the
new States, under an act of Congress distributing the pro
ceeds of the public lands among the several States of the
Union, approved A. D. 1841 ; and all estates of deceased
persons who may have died without leaving a will, or heir,
and also such per cent, as may be granted by Congress on
the sale of lands in this State, shall be and remain a per
petual fund, the interest of which, together with all the
rents of the unsold lands, and such other means as the
Legislature may provide, shall be inviolably appropriated
to the support of Common Schools throughout the State.
Sec 3. The Legislature shall provide for a system of
Common Schools, by which a school shall be kept up and
supported in each district at least three months in every
year : and any school district neglecting to keep up and
support such a school, may be deprived of its proportion
of the interest of the public fund during such neglect.
Sec. 4. The Legislature shall take measures for the
protection, improvement, or other disposition of such lands
as have been, or may hereafter be, reserved or granted by
the United States, or any person or persons to this State
for the use of a University ; and the funds accruing from
the rents or sale of such lands, or from any other source,
for the purpose aforesaid, shall be and remain a permanent
fund, the interest of which shall be applied to the support
of said university, with such branches as the public con
venience may demand for the promotion of literature, the
arts and sciences, as may be authorized by the terms of
such grant. And it shall be the duty of the Legislature,
as soon as may be, to provide effectual means for the im
provement and permanent security of the funds of said
University.

500 CONSTITUTION OF THE

.ARTICLE X.
MODE OF AMENDING AND REVISING THE
CONSTITUTION.
Sec 1. Any amendment or amendments to this Consti
tution may be proposed in the Senate or Assembly ; and
if the same shall be agreed to by a majority of the mem
bers elected to each of the two houses, such proposed
amendment or amendments shall be entered on their jour
nals, with the yeas and nays, taken thereon, and referred
to the Legislature then next to be chosen, and shall be
published for three 'months next preceding the time of
making such choice. And if, in the Legislature next
chosen, as aforesaid, such proposed amendment or amend
ments shall be agreed to by a majority of all the members
elected to each house, then it shall be the duty of the
Legislature to submit such proposed amendment or amend
ments to the people, in such manner, and at such time, as
the Legislature shall prescribe ; and if the people shall
approve and ratify such amendment or amendments, by a
majority of the electors qualified to vote for members of
the Legislature voting thereon, such amendment or amend
ments shall become part of the Constitution.
Sec 2. And if, at any time, two-thirds of the Senate
and Assembly shall think it necessary to revise and change
this entire Constitution, they shall recommend to the elec
tors, a-t the next election for members of the Legislature,
to vote for or against the convention ; and if it shall
appear that a majority of the electors voting at such elec
tion have voted in favor of calling a convention, the Legis
lature shall, at its next session, provide by law for calling
a convention, to be holden within six months after the pas
sage of such law ; and such convention shall consist of a
number of members not less -than that of both branches of
the Legislature. ?

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 501
ARTICLE XI.
MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS.
Sec. 1. The first session of the Legislature shall be
held at the Pueblo de San Jose, which place shall be the
permanent seat of government, until removed by law ;
provided, however, that two-thirds of all the members
elected to each house of the Legislature shall concur in
the passage of such law.
Sec 2. Any citizen of this State who shall, after the
adoption of this Constitution, fight a duel with deadly
weapons, or send or accept a challenge to fight a duel with
deadly weapons, either within the State or out of it ; or
who shall act as second, or knowingly aid or assist in any
manner those thus offending, shall not be allowed to hold
any office of profit, or to enjoy the right of suffrage under
this Constitution.
Sec 3. Members of the Legislature, and all officers,
executive, and judicial, except such inferior officers as may
be by law exempted, shall, before they enter on the duties
of their respective offices, take and subscribe the following
oath or affirmation.
" I do solemnly swear (or affirm, as the case may be,)
that I will support the Constitution of the United States,
and the constitution of the State of California ; and that I
will" faithfully discharge the duties of the office of  ,
according to the best of my ability." And no other oath,
declaration, or test, shall be required as a qualification for
any office or public trust.
Sec 4. The Legislature shall establish a system of
county and town governments, which shall be as nearly
uniform as practicable, throughout the State.
Sec 5. The Legislature shall have power to provide for
the election of a board of supervisors in each county ; and

5021 CONSTITUTION OF *HE
these supervisors shall, jointly and individually,- perforce
such duties as may be prescribed by laiw.
Sec 6. All officers whose election or appointment is not
provided for by this constitution, and all officers whose
offices may hereafter be created by law, shall be elected by
the people, or appointed as tlje Legislature may direct.
Sec 7. When the duration of any office is not provided
for by this constitution, it may be declared by law ; and if
not so declared^ such office shall be held during the
pleasure Of the authority making the appointment ; nor
shall the duration of any office, not fixed by this constitu
tion, ever exceed four years.
Sec 8.- The fiscal year shall commence on the first day
of July.
Sec 9. Each county, towny city and incorporated vil
lage, shall make provision for the support of its own offi
cers, subject to such restrictions and regulations as the
Legislature may prescribe.
Sec 10. The credit of the State shall not in any man
ner be given or loaned to, or in aid of, any individual,
association or corporation ; nor shall the State, directly or
indirectly, become a stockholder in any association or
corporation. Sec 11. Suits may be brought against the State, in such
manner, and in such courts, as shall be directed by law.
Sec 12. No contract of marriage, if otherwise duly
made, shall be invalidated, for want of conformity to the
requirements of any religious sect.
Sec 13. Taxation shall be equal and uniform through
out the State. All property, in this State, shall be taxed
in proportion to its value, to be ascertained as directed by
law ; but assessors and collectors of town, county and
State taxes, shall be elected by the qualified electors of the
district, county or town, in which the property taxed for
State, county or town purposes is situated.

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 503
Sec 14. All property, both real and personal, of the
wife, owned or claimed by her before marriage, and that
acquired afterwards by gift, devise or descent, shall be her
separate property ; and laws shall be passed more clearly
defining the rights of the wife, in relation as well to her
separate property, as to that held in common with her
husband. Laws shall also be passed providing for the
registration of the wife's separate property.
Sec 15. The legislature shall protect by law, from
forced sale, a certain portion of the homestead and other
property of all heads of families.
Sec 16. No perpetuities shall be allowed, except for
eleemosynary purposes.
Sec 17. Every person shall be disqualified from holding
any office of profit in this State, who shall have been con
victed of having given or offered a bribe, to procure his
election or appointment.
Sec 18. Laws shall be made to exclude from office,
serving on juries, and from the right of suffrage, those who
shall hereafter be convicted of bribery, perjury, forgery, or
other high crimes. The privilege of free suffrage shall be
supported by laws regulating elections, and prohibiting,
under adequate penalties, all undue influence thereon, from
power, bribery, tumult, or other improper practice.
Sec 19. Absence from this State on business of the
State, or of the United States, shall not affect the question
of residence of any person.
Sec 20. A plurality of the votes given at any election
shall constitute a choice, where not otherwise directed in
this constitution.
Sec 21. All laws, decrees, regulations, and provisions,
which from their nature require publication, shall be pub
lished in English and Spanish.

504 CONSTITUTION OF THE
ARTICLE XII.
BOUNDARY.
The boundary of the State of California shall be as
follows : —
Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d
degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude
west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said
120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 39th
degree of north latitude ; thence running in a straight line
in a southeasterly direction to the river Colorado, at a
point where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude ;
thence down the middle of the channel of said river, to the
boundary line between the United States and Mexico, as
established by the treaty of May 30th, 1848 ; thence run
ning west and along said boundary line to the Pacific
Ocean, and extending therein three English miles ; thence
running in a northwesterly direction, and following the
direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north
latitude ; thence on the line of said 42d degree of north
latitude to the place of beginning. Also all the islands,
harbors and bays, along and adjacent to the Pacific coast.
SCHEDULE.
Sec 1. All rights, prosecutions, claims and contracts,
as well of individuals as of bodies corporate, and all laws
in force at the time of the adoption of this constitution,
and not inconsistent therewith, until altered or repealed
by the Legislature, shall continue as if the same had not
been adopted.
Sec 2. The Legislature shall provide for the removal
of all causes which may be pending when this constitu
tion goes into effect, to courts created by the same.
Sec 3. In order that no inconvenience may result to
the public service, from the taking effect of this constitu-

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 505
tion, no office shall be superseded thereby, nor the laws.
relative to the duties of the several officers be changed,
until the entering into office of the new officers to be
appointed under this constitution.
Sec 4. The provisions of this constitution concerning
the term of residence necessary to enable persons to hold
certain offices therein mentioned, shall not be held to apply
to officers chosen by the people at the first election, or by
the Legislature at its first session.
Sec 5. Every citizen of California, declared a legal
voter by this constitution, and every citizen of the United
States, a resident of this State on the day of election, shall
be entitled to vote at the first general election under this
constitution, and on the question of the adoption thereof.
Sec 6. This constitution shall be submitted to the
people, for their ratification or rejection, at the general
election to be held on Tuesday, the thirteenth day of
November next. The Executive of the existing govern
ment of California is hereby requested to issue a procla
mation to the people, directing the Prefects of the several
districts, or in case of vacancy, the Sub-Prefects, or senior
Judge of First Instance, to cause such election to be held,
on the day aforesaid, in their respective districts. The
election shall be conducted in the manner which was pre
scribed for the election of delegates to this convention,
except that the Prefect, Sub-Prefect, or senior Judge of
First Instance ordering such election in each district, shall
have power to designate any additional number of places
for opening the polls, and that, in every place of holding
the election, a regular poll-list shall be kept by the judges
and inspectors of election. It shall also be the duty of
these judges and inspectors of election, on the day afore
said, to receive the votes of the electors qualified to vote
at such election. Each voter shall express his opinion, by
depositing in the. ballot-box a ticket, whereon shall be

506 CONSTITUTION OF THE
written, or printed "For the Constitution," or "Against
the Constitution," or some such words as will distinctly con
vey the intention of the voter. These Judges and Inspec
tors shall also receive the votes for the several officers to
be voted for at the said election, as herein provided. At
the close of the election, the judges and inspectors shall
carefully count each ballot, and forthwith make duplicate
returns thereof to the Prefect, Sub-Prefect, or senior Judge
of First Instance, as the case may be, of their respective
districts ; and said Prefect, Sub-Prefect, or senior Judge
of First Instance shall transmit one of the same, by the
most safe and rapid conveyance, to the Secretary of State.
Upon the receipt of said returns, or on the tenth day of
December next, if the returns be not sooner received, it
shall be the duty of a board of canvassers, to consist of
the Secretary of State, one of the Judges of the Supe
rior Court, the Prefect, Judge of First Instance, and an
Alcalde of the District of Monterey, or any three of the
aforementioned officers, in the presence of all who shall
choose to attend, to compare the votes given at said elec
tion, and to immediately publish an abstract of the same
in one or more of the newspapers of California. And the
Executive will also, immediately after ascertaining that
the constitution has been ratified by the people, make pro
clamation of the fact ; and thenceforth this constitution
shall be ordained and established as the constitution of
California. Sec 7. If this constitution shall be ratified by the
people of California, the Executive of the existing govern
ment is hereby requested, immediately after the same shall
be ascertained, in the manner herein directed, to cause a
fair copy thereof to be forwarded to the President of the
United States, in order that he may lay it before the Con
gress of the United States.
Sec 8. At the general election aforesaid, viz. : the

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 507
thirteenth day of November next, there shall be elected a
Governor, Lieutenant Governor, members of the Legisla-
lature, and also two members of Congress.
Sec 9. If this constitution shall be ratified by the peo
ple of California, the legislature shall assemble at the seat
of government, on the fifteenth day of December next,
and in order to complete the organization of that body, the
Senate shall elect a President pro tempore, until the Lieu
tenant Governor shall be installed into office.
Sec 10. On the organization of the legislature, it shall
be the duty of the Secretary of State, to lay before each
house a copy of the abstract made by the board of can
vassers, and, if called for, the original returns of election,
in order that each house may judge of the correctness of
the report of said board of canvassers.
Sec 11. The legislature, at its first session, shall elect
such officers as may be ordered by this constitution, to be
elected by that body, and within four days after its organi
zation, proceed to elect two Senators to the Congress of the
United States. But no law passed by this legislature shall
take effect until signed by ' the Governor, after his instal
lation into office.
Sec 12. The Senators and Representatives to the Con
gress of the United States, elected by the legislature and
people of California, as herein directed, shall be furnished
with certified copies of this constitution, when ratified,
which they shall lay before the Congress of the United
States, requesting, in the name of the people of California,
the admission of the State of California into the American
Union. Sec 13. All officers of this State, other than members
of the legislature, shall be installed into office on the
fifteenth day of December next, or as soon thereafter as
practicable. Sec 14. Until the legislature shall divide the State into

508 CONSTITUTION OF THE
counties, and senatorial and assembly districts, as directed
by this constitution, the following shall be the apportion
ment of the two houses of the legislature, viz : the districts
of San Diego and Los Angelos shall jointly elect two sena
tors ; the districts of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo
shall jointly elect one senator ; the district of Monterey,
one senator ; the district of San Jose, one senator ; the dis
trict of San Francisco, two senators ; the district of
Sonoma, one senator ; the district of Sacramento, four sena
tors ; and the district of San Joaquin, four senators : —
And the district of San Diego shall elect one member of
assembly ; the district of Los Angelos, two members of
assembly ; the district of Santa Barbara, two members of
assembly ; the district of San Luis Obispo, one member of
assembly ; the district of Monterey, two members of assem
bly ; the district of San Jose, three members of assembly ;
the district of San Francisco, five members of assembly ;
the district of Sonoma, two members of assembly ; the dis
trict of Sacramento, nine members of assembly ; and the
district of San Joaquin, nine members of assembly.
Sec 15. Until the legislature shall otherwise direct,- in
accordance with the provisions of this constitution, the
salary of the Governor shall be ten thousand dollars per
annum ; and the salary of the Lieutenant Governor shall
be double the pay of a state senator ; and the pay of mem
bers of the legislature shall be sixteen dollars per diem,
while in attendance, and sixteen dollars for every twenty
miles travel by the usual route from their residences, to
the place of holding the session of the legislature, and in
returning therefrom. And the legislature shall fix the
salaries of all officers, other than those elected by the
people, at the first election.
Sec 16. The limitation of the powers of the legis
lature, contained in article 8th of this constitution, shall
not extend to the first legislature elected under the same,

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 509

which is hereby authorized to

negotiate for such amount

as may be necessary to pay

the expenses of the State

government.

R

. SEMPLE,

President of the Convention,

and Delegate from Bcnicia.

Wm. G. Marcy, Secretary

J. Aram,

B. S. Lippincott,

C. T. Botts,

M. M. McCarver,

E. Brown,

John McDougal,

J. A. Carillo,

B. F. Moore,

J. M. Covarrubias,

Myron Norton,

E. 0. Crosby,

P. Ord,

P. De La Guerra,

Miguel Pedrorena,

L. Dent,

A. M. Pico,

i M. Dominguez,

R. M. Price,

K. H. Dimmick,

Hugo Reid,

A. J. Ellis,

Jacinto Rodriguez,

S. C. Foster,

Pedro Sansevaine,

E. Gilbert,

W. E. Shannon,

W. M. Gwinn,

W. S. Sherwood,

H. W. Halleck,

J. R. Snyder,

Julian Hanks,

A. Stearns,

L. W. Hastings,

W. M. Steuart,

Henry Hill,

J. A. Sutter,

J. Hobson,

Henry A. Tefft,

J. McH. Hollingsworth,

S. L. Vermule,

J. D. HoppeJ

M. G. Vallejo,

J. M. Jones,

J. Walker,

T. 0. Larkin,

0. M. Wozencraft.

Francis J. Lippitt,
1

¦

510 ADDRESS TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.

Address to the People of California.
The undersigned, delegates to a convention authorized
to form a constitution for the State of California, having,
to the best of their abilty, discharged the high trust com
mitted to them, respectfully submit the accompanying plan
of government for your approval. Acknowledging the
great fundamental principles, that all political power is
inherent in the people, and that government is instituted
for the protection, security and benefit of the people, the
constitution presented for your consideration is intended
only to give such organic powers to the several depart
ments of the proposed government, as shall be necessary
for its efficient administration : and while it is believed no
power has been given, which is not thus essentially neces
sary, the convention deem individual rights, as well as
public liberty, are amply secured, by the people still re
taining not only the great conservative power of free choice
and election of all officers, agents and representatives, but
the unalienable right to alter or reform their government,
whenever the public good may require.
Although born in different climes, coming from different
States, imbued with local feelings, and educated, perhaps,
with predilections for peculiar institutions, laws, and "cus
toms, the delegates assembled in convention as Californi
ans, and carried on their deliberations in a spirit of amity,
compromise, and mutual concession for the public weal.
It cannot be denied that a difference of opinion was
entertained in the convention, as to the policy and expe
diency of several measures embodied in the constitution ;
but looking to the great interests of the State of Califor
nia, the peace, happiness, and prosperity of the whole
people, — individual opinions were freely surrendered to
the will of the majority, and, with one voice, we respect-

ADDRESS TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA. 511
fully but earnestly recommend to our fellow citizens the
adoption of the constitution which we have the honor to
submit. In establishing a boundary for the State, the convention
conformed, as near as was deemed practicable and expedi
ent, to great natural landmarks, so as to bring into a union
all those who should be included by mutual interest, mutual
wants, and mutual dependence. No portion of territory
is included, the inhabitants of which were not or might not
have been legitimately represented in the convention, under
the authority by which it was convened ; and in unani
mously resolving to' exclude slavery from the State of Cali
fornia, the great principle has been maintained, that to the
people of each State and Territory, alone, belongs the
right to establish such municipal regulations, and to decide
such questions as affect their own peace, prosperity and
happiness. A free people, in the enjoyment of an elective govern
ment, capable of securing their civil, religious and politi
cal rights, may rest assured these inestimable privileges
can never be wrested from them, so long as they keep a
Watchful eye on the operations of their government, and
hold to strict accountability those to whom power is dele
gated. No people were ever yet enslaved, who knew and
dared maintain the Co-relative rights and obligations of
free and independent citizens. A knowledge of the laws
— their moral force and efficacy, thus becomes an essential
element of freedom, and makes public education of pri
mary importance. In this view, the constitution of Cali
fornia provides for, and guarantees in the most ample man
ner, the establishment of common schools, seminaries and
colleges, so as to extend the blessings of education through
out the land, and secure its advantages to the present and
future generations. Under the peculiar circumstances in
which California becomes a State — with an unexampled
increase of a population coming from every part of the

512 ADDRESS TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.
world, speaking various languages, and imbued with differ
ent feelings and prejudices, no form of government, no
system of laws, can be expected to meet with immediate
and unanimous assent. It is to be remembered, moreover,
that a considerable portion of our fellow-citizens are natives
of Old Spain, Californians, and those who have voluntarily
relinquished the rights of Mexicans to enjoy those of Ameri
can citizens. Long accustomed to a different form of gov
ernment, regarding the rights of person and of property as
interwoven with ancient usages and time-honored customs,
they may not at once see the advantages of the proposed
new government, or yield an immediate approval of new
laws, however salutary their provisions, or conducive to
the general welfare. But it is confidently believed, when
the government as now proposed shall have gone into suc
cessful operation ; when each department thereof, shall
move on harmoniously in its appropriate and respective
sphere ; when laws, bassed on the eternal principles of
equity and justice, shall be established ; when every citi
zen of California, shall find himself secure in life, liberty
and property — all will unite in the cordial support of insti
tutions, which are not only the pride and boast of every
true-hearted citizen of the Union, but have gone forth, a
guiding light to every people groping through the gloom
of religious superstition or political fanaticism — institu-'
tions, which even now, while all Europe is agitated with
the convulsive efforts of nations battling for liberty, have
become the mark and model of government for every peo
ple who would hold themselves free, sovereign and in
dependent. With this brief exposition of the views and opinions of
the convention, the undersigned submit the constitution and
plan of government for your approval. They earnestly
recommend it to your calm and deliberate consideration,
and especially do they most respectfully urge on every
voter to attend the polls.

ADDRESS TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.

513

The putting into operation of a government which shall
establish justice, insure domestic tranquillity, promote the
general welfare, and secure the blessings of civil, religious,
and political liberty, should be an object of the deepest
solicitude to every true-hearted citizen, and the consumma
tion of his dearest wishes. The price of liberty is eternal
vigilance, and thus it is not only the privilege but the duty
of every voter to vote his sentiments. No freeman of this
land who values his birth-right, and would transmit unim
paired to his children an inheritance so rich in glory and
honor, will refuse to give one day to the service of his
country. Let every qualified voter go early to the polls,
and give his free vote at the election appointed to be held
on Tuesday, the 13th day of November next, not only that
a full and fair expression of the public voice may be had,
for or against a constitution intended to secure the peace,
happiness and prosperity of the whole people, but that
their numerical and political strength may be made mani
fest, and the world see by what majority of freemen Cali
fornia, the bright star of the West, claims a place in the
diadem of that glorious republic, formed by the Union of
thirty-one sovereign States.

(Signed)
Joseph Aram,
Chas. T. Botts,
Elam Brown,
Jose Anto. Carillo,
Jose M. Covarrubias
Elisha O. Crosby,
Lewis Dent,
Manuel Dominguez,
K. H. Dimmick,
A. J. Ellis,
Stephen G. Foster,
Pablo De La Guerra,

Benj. S. Lippincott,
M. M. McCarver,
John Mc Dougal,
Benj. F. Moore,
Myron Norton,
P. Ord,
Miguel De Pedrorena,
Rodman M. Price,
Antonio M. Pico,
Jacinto Rodrigues,
Hugh Reid,
John A. Sutter,

514 ADDRESS TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.

Edw. Gilbert,
Wm. M. Gwin,
Julian Hanks,
Henry Hill,
J. D. Hoppe,
Joseph Hobson,
H. W. Halleck,
L. W. Hastings,
J. McH. Hollingsworth,
Jas. McHall Jones,
Thomas 0. Larkin,
Francis J. Lippitt,

Jacob R. Snyder,
W. Scott Sherwood,
Wm. C. Shannon,
Pedro Sansevain,
Abel Stearns,
W. M. Steuart,
R. Semple,
Henry A. Tefft,
M. G. Vallejo,
Thos. L. Vermule,
Joel P. Walker,
0. M. Wozencraft.

YALE\?

YALE UNIVERSITY

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