YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

T II A V fi LS IN M E X I C 0.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO,
DURING THE YEARS 1843 AND 44;

A DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA, THE PRINCIPAL CITIES
AND MINING DISTRICTS OF THAT REPUBLIC;
THE OREGON TERRITORY, ETC,

BY ALBERT M. GILLIAM.
IATH U. S. OOHSOL TO CALIFORNIA.

A NEW AND COMPLETE EDITION.

ABERDEEN:
PUBLISHED BY GEORGE CLARK AND SON,
IPSWICH :— J. M. BURTON.

WCCCOXLYII,

YALE

Mexico

t»-i

<t,£fc

PREFACE.

In compliance with the general custom of writing a preface, it is
my desire to say, that I Bhould not publish my Travels in Mexico,
but for the flattering solicitations of Bomo friends.
My journey in that interesting country, was of long continuan.ee.
Individuals in Mexico informed me that it was unknown, that per
sons in a private capacity had ever accomplished so great a distance
of internal travel at any one period ; and not unfrequently it hap
pened, that in parting with acquaintances, many apprehensions
and doubts would be expressed of the success of my enterprise.
Although much has been written upon detached portions of
Mexico, as seen by other travellers, yet 1 have written with a hope,
that a journey of about four thousand mileB, in a country that has
for nearly four hundred years engaged the attention of the world,
will not be read without exciting some interest.
The ignorance of the geography of Mexico, has resulted from
the fact, that no Eclehtific Individual has ever traversed its ex
tended territories, which would enable him to locate rivers and ci
ties, or to describe mountains, valleys and lakes, — it is from the want
of this knowledge that a map has never been taken of Mexico
and the only one bearing the name that can be relied on is that of
Baron Humboldt, which was in the main sketched from the imagi
nation. I have taken care to draw as accurate a map of my travels
as my time and observation permitted.
It is to be regretted, that whilst other countries have industri
ously had their geographical, geological and mineralogical surveys
Mexico has remained inert, and satisfied with the gloom and ignor
ance in which the first revolution found her — the philosophic stores
of her dominions are locked up from the world, and only probed
hero and there by foreign research.

VI PREFACE.
Since my return to the United States, my time has been so much
occupied that I have not been enabled to devote due attention and
study to the composition and arrangement of my manuscript, but
since it has gone forth, I can only regret, that haste has compelled
mo to publish its imperfections with whatever good qualities it may
possess. I fear that my knowledge of the Spanish will be sen
tenced by the classic eye — yet in apology, I hope I may be excused ;
and permit me to say, that I have given it in the most grammatical
manner that my limited opportunity of learning it would allow.
My feelings of gratitude will not permit me to conclude without
expressing my thanks to my friends in Virginia. Their generosity
I have often had reason to acknowledge. The Executive to whom
I was introduced, distinguished in a nation's confidence and patron*
age, I shall always cherish.
I am happy in congratulating my fellow citizens on their pros
perity ; on their possession of a land unequalled in its resources
and above all, as they are the only people truly enjoying constitu
tional liberty and freedom of conscience, where the laurels of vic
tory unrestrained by power, and uncorrupted by gold, deck the
brow of the triumphant in the great contention of the field of
principle. ALBERT M. GILLIAM.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO,

CHAPTER I.
My Journal. The plain and unsophisticated narration of facts is
of interest to the reader. Incidents as happening the more beau
tifully and naturally are illustrative of cause and effect. Com
mission by President Tyler, as Consul of the Port of San Fran
cisco, Upper California in the Republic of Mexico. Embarked
Oct. 15, 1843. Three casualties in three months. First day's
travel in the Natural Bridge Stage. Arrived, the 18th instant,
at Guyandotte, on the Oh:o. Voyage down the river, having a
view of several States of the Union. Arrived at Cincinnati, on
the 23d Inst. Yellow Fever in New Orleans. Determined to
spend one week in Cincinnati. Entertained by hearing the Rev.
Nicholas Cobbs, D. D., preach. On the 29th instant, frost at New
Orleans. My departure from Cincinnati. Steamer James Madi
son. On the 1st November, beheld the magnificent meeting of
the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. On the night of the 7th inst.,
arrived in sight of New Orleans. Splendid view of the city.
H.WIN9, with care, kept my Journal, from the day of my de
parture from home, I shall, therefore, give it to the world in
the style of the original manuscript.
The plain, unsophisticated narration of facts, as at the mo
ment noticed by the traveller, I have presumed to be not only
the more intelligible to all, but of greater interest to the
general reader.
The studied system that some have aimed at, by an over-
cultivation of elegancy of diction and " far-fetched" classical
illustrations, have often failed to entertain more than the con
cise, connected history of incidents, which always the more
beautifully and naturally illustr ate " cause and effect," and
thus, by intuition, guide " the mind's eye" of the peruser to
see as the tourist beheld.
With such views I shall endeavour to avoid isolation, not
with the hope of pleasing the imagination, and affording a

8 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
banquet to the mind — but of offering that solid fund of in
formation and improvement to the examiner, by a detail of
facts that he had most fondly hoped for.
Having been commissioned by his Excellency President
Tyler, Consul of the port of San Francisco, Upper California,
in the Republic of Mexico, and having been presented with
the accustomed documents and despatches to the resident
Minister of the American Legation at the city of Mexico, I,
without delay, bade adieu, on the 15th of October, 1843, to
many friends, and the place of my nativity, Lynchburg, Va.,for
New Orleans, the distant port of my embarkation.
Being by nature of a domestic predominancy of habit, I ever
had an aversion to long journeys, the more especially by stage
coaches ; for it most invariably happened that, whenever I at- '
tempted that mode of travel, some misfortune would of conse
quence befal, for the occurrences of horses by fright running
down hills and precipitous mountains, and in some instances
upsetting in terrific ways ; from which although my life has
been spared, yet often left me with bruised and mangled limbs.
Indeed, the several casualties of three overtumings in stage
coaches, the running off of the cars from a railroad track, and
a storm at sea, in a steamboat, off the coast of Cape Hatteras,
and that too all in the short space of three months, had almost
impressed my mind with presentiments of dangers to be en
countered by travelling.
However, my first day's travel on my way to the West,
was a very pleasant one, in the Natural Bridge stage : it thus
continued until the evening of the 18th inst., when I arrived
at the town of Guyandotte, on the Ohio river ; and, as I fol
lowed my baggage on board of a steamboat that was in wait
ing for passengers, and ascended its upper deck to take a last
look at the distant mountains of my native State, over which
I had so recently passed, and which were then, amidst volumes
of smoke, and the harsh sonorousness of escaping steam, fast
receding from view, my bosom was enlivened with feelings
which were never before felt, and my mind could not but be
filled with admiration and many reflections, as I voyaged
down the beautiful river for the first time, beholding upon
both sides different States of the Union.
Upon my arrival at Cincinnati, on the 22nd inst., I was in
formed by passengers who had just arrived at that place from
New Orleans, that the yellow fever, notwithstanding the late
ness of the season, was yet raging in that city, insomuch that
it would be considered very hazardous for one from so far
north as I was, to venture, where disease and death were de-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. $
Vaskting the place. I therefore determined to Spend one
week tn the pleasant city of Cincinnati, the famed " Queen Of
the West."
Whilst at Cincinnati, my time was engaged With touch in
terest during my stay ; and I may also add that a portion of
it was profitably as well as agreeably entertained, by hearing
the Rev. Nicholas Cobbs, D. D., of the English Episcopal de
nomination, preach at his church of St. Paul's. Dr. Cbbbs is
a native of Bedford county, Virginia) and during his residence
there I had often heard Ids impressive eloqliehce. But the
reverend clergyman having been called to minister in holy things
in the city of Cincinnati, without my knowledge', 1 cannot ex-
4 press my felicitous enjoyment, upon the eve of my embarking
to a strange land, seated as I then was. Uhdef the voice of One
whose piety I so much respected, ihvitihg hie in ihveet tohesj
and in manner and language the most persuasive, to the
realms of bliss.
On the morning Of the 29th instaht, news having leached
Cincinnati that welcome Jack Frost had visited the City of
New Orleans, I found hundreds Who like myself had but im
patiently awaited tidings of that hoary benefactor Of the hu
man specieB, previous to embarking for that port — for wilh him
lor our pioneer, we could withhold hearts penetrate the lower
country, as pestilence and death always fled from his cold and
purifying touch. I therefore, without delay, hastened on
board the James MadiBon, a boat of the first class, Captain J.
Fulton, master, bound for New Orleans, which, by the early
hour of 10 o'clock, a. H.,had all of its state rooms taken, and
when night came, there was scarcely room upon the cabin floor
for weary passengers to repose their bodies.
My journey again commenced upon the deep, expansive,.and
lengthened Ohio. It was with feelings of much gratification
that, upon the first day of November, at Cairo, I for the first
time beheld one of the sublimest scenes to be witnessed in
America' — the majestic meeting of the great Ohio and the Mis-
sissipi rivers; and, as I looked upon the union of the waters
of the West, which were in one common angry and turbulent
element beneath me, rushing on with maddening fury to a
vast and common home in the mighty deep, my mind could but
be, in the spectacle, taught a lesson on the onward tendency
of all things ; for man, with accumulated years, and with
many tributary cares, is too rapidly, with an irresistible
career, floating downwards to the vast ocean of eternity.
On the night of the 7th inst., the James Madison arrived in
si^ht of the city of New Orleans, a distance of about two
A a

JO TRAVELS IN MEXICO^
thousand miles from the port of Guyandotte, Va. I could but
consider my arrival at that city, at that late hour, fortunate,
as New Orleans cannot be seen under a more favourable as
pect, than by approaching it under the cover of darkness. I
beheld, as the boat rapidly advanced, an extended quarter of
a circle, of about two miles in length, thickly lined with the
floating palaces of the West, and then with the shipping from
all parts of the world. The steamboats a blaze of light from
stem to stern — some letting off their steam with deafening
noise, whilst some were extinguishing their fires with hissing
sounds, as the water was thrown upon the red hot brands
under the boilers ; whilst, at the same time, lights from the
decks and the cabin windows of the shipping, extended an il- <
lumination, until it was lost in distant littleness; from which
lurid glare Jack tar, with merry laugh and song, could be seen
and heard furling his sail and tackle, above the shouts of por
ters, and the rattling of drays and hacks ; when far above the
levee, the innumerable lights of the tall houses of the city,
shed a halo of brilliancy over a scene the equal of which I had
never before beheld, and which, when taken altogether, really
presented to the eye a magnificent crescent, adorned with
sparkling scintillating gems. And thus, most apropos, has
the city of New Orleans been denominated the " Crescent City."

TRAVELS Ig MEXICO. U

CHAPTER II.
Visited Collector of the Port. His kind attention. Eogaged pas
sage on the schooner Amazon for Vera Cruz. Reception by the
Mate. Destined to lodge in the LadieB' Cabin. Confusion of
the Mate by the Captain's arrival. His hospitality. Towed by
the Arkansas. Detained by a fog. The tow drifted. Tho
Steamer by a backward revolution came stern upon the broad
side of the Amazon. Much damage sustained. Captain Hard
ing in a passion. We sail for Balize. The Captain leaves tho
Amazon and returns with a pilot. We again set sail. Meeting
of the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico. Cast anchor at the
mouth of the Pass. Departure of the Pilot, and his rescue from
drowning. Out of sight of land. The Captain's indisposition.
A storm at sea. A man lost. View of the Perote mountain.
A calm. Catching Fish. The Orizava. By telescope viewed
the port of Vera Cruz. Boarded by a Pilot. Anchored under
the walls of San Juan de Ulloa. Disembarked from the Amazon
for the Mole. Novel sights. First night in Vera Cruz. De
scription of Vera Cruz. Health of Vera Cruz. Northers.
On the evening of the 8th of November I, without delay, visi
ted Mr. Dorsey, the Collector of the Customs at the Port of
New Orleans, a gentleman with whom I had to transact some
public business. And here I cannot refrain from saying that
Mr. Dorsey, who had then been but recently appointed Col
lector, had, by his indefatigable industry, won the esteem of
all who had done business with him ; and for the interest ho
exhibited in forwarding me in my preparation for my journey
to Mexico, I shall ever feel grateful.
Through Mr. D. I was informed that the schooner Amazon
was the only vessel in port taking in freight, bound for Vera
Cruz, and would sail upon the evening of the 9th inst. I there
fore did not hesitate, through the house of Messrs. Capdervill
& Cucullu, who were owners of the schooner, to secure my
passage ; and having completed all my other arrangements in
the city, I accordingly, upon the evening of the 9th, that hav
ing been the appointed time for the sailing of the Amazon,
sent my baggage aboard of her, where I soon followed.
Upon my arrival on deck of the little vessel, for it was only
of ninety tons burthen, the captain being absent, the mate, a
stupid-looking fellow, conducted me into the cabin, a place
six feet ten in size ; and, as I have since imagined, fearing
that he would have to give up his own berth to either myself

12 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
or some other passages of the Amazon, at once inquired of me
if I had consulted the captain as to where I was to sleep ; at
the same time pointing to the right hand, and saying that that
was the captain's berth, and informing me that that was his,
to the opposite, on the left. After thanking the mate for his
kind intelligence, and declining all intention of depriving
either himself or the captain of their berths, he then invited
me into the aft cabin, or ladies' apartment, as he called it, at
the same time showing mo a small low door on the left, whilst
he proceeded to open one on the right. I accepted his invita
tion, by stooping about one half, and passing through the door
to the stern of the schooner. The kind and polite mate unne
cessarily invited me to take a seat, for it was impossible to
have occupied any other than an inclined or sitting posture. —
Tho mate having located himself opposite to me, in a most
ludicrous manner began to expostulate upon the mode of sea
travelling, and was winding up his lucid, and, as he thought,
interesting description of a life upon the sea, by informing me
that tho apartments we then occupied was the most desirable
of any aboard the vessel, and was exclusively designed for the
ladies ; although at the moment I could not discover a par
ticle of bod or bedding, but, to the contrary, the little place
seemed to be crammed with kegs of crackers, denii-johns, old
clothing, besides many other articles of ship stores ; and as
the mate was continuing to say, that, as he had no doubt but
that I was a gentleman, he should not, on his part, hesitate to
put me in with the ladies, if there should be any, to take pas
sage on board of the Amazon. However, it happened that
just at that moment, when I had concluded that I was des
tined to be obliged to lodge with the ladies, in so small a
chamber, the good and merry little Captain Harding camu
hastily down the stairway of the gentleman's cabin, and called
aloud for his mate in a true seaman-like manner. Mr. Holmes
appeared to be as much alarmed as confused, and hesitatingly
responded to his superior officer ; and as the mate was making
his exit from the -ladies' apartment into the gentlemen's
cabin, the captain demanded the reason of his coming out of
that place ? when Mr. Holmes informed him that he was only
showing one of the passengers the berths of the ladies' cabin,
so that ho might make choice of one previous to any of theui
coming on board. Captain Harding seemed to be exasperated
at what the mute had said — and remarked, that the ladies,
dear things, had always been welcome to his berth, as it was
the best aboard tlie Amazon. " There, Sir," turning to myself
who by this time was standing in the gentlemen's cabin, "you
shall have my berth, Sir, as it has the only good feather bed

Travels in Mexico. 13
aboard, and I shall sleep in yours, mate : so yoii had better be
looking out in time for a choice berth in the ladies' cabin —
hah !" Captain Harding then called his steward, and ordered
him to spread the table with wines, sardines, cheese, crackers,
and cigars : and a jolly time myself and Mr. Duncan j who
had by this time arrived, and the only other passenger, had
with the merry little Captain Thomas Harding.
It was not until five o'clock in the morning, that the steamer
Arkansas took the Amazon in tow. The steamer had at each
side of her a large ship, and the Amason constituted the Sixth
in number of the schooners that were fastened by long cables
to the stern of the Arkansas. The tow having then Becured
its full complement" of vessels, it proceeded down the Missis
sippi river ; and a hard time we had of it ; for we had not
been under way more than two hours before the fog became so
dense that the tow had to cast anchor, and was unable to
make head before daylight the following morning, when we
raised steam and started ; but again, at nine o'clock in the
evening, we were stopped by the fog, being about twenty-five
miles from the Balize ; and at half-past six o'clock, on the
following morning, the mate of the Amazon, Mr. Holmes, in
formed the mate of the Arkansas that the tow was adrift, and
told him to get the steam up as soon as possible; and owing
to tho mismanagement of the tow-boat, in the hurry and
alarm of the moment, a backward revolution was given to
the wheel, which caused the steamer and one of the ships to
come astern upon our broadside, and crowded the Amazon
hard upon the bank, which broke our starboard rail abreast
the mainmast, and four of the stauncheOns and bulwarks,
strained our main rigging, broke our larboard cat-head bow-
rail, carried away our jib-stay, and caused us to sustain seve
ral other lighter damages forward. As for myself, I had not
at that hour arisen, yet from the forcibleness of the concussion
of the tow against our vessel, I was violently thrown from
my berth on to the floor of the cabin, where indeed I did not
tarry, but recovering myself I hastened on deck, where
indeed I did not tarry, but recovering myself, I hastened on
deck, where luckily I had just arrived in time to witness, for
the first time, a sea-captain in a passion ; and I can with truth
say, that I had no idea that so small a man as Captain Har
ding had as strong a pair of lungs, or such fluency of language.
The Captain of the Arkansas requested the Captain of the
Amazon to let go the hawser; but the ongry little Harding
peremptorily refused ; saying that he should not let go until
the steamer had hauled his windlass and foremast Out of his
vessel, for he did not think of being left in distress, How-

14 TRAVELS IN MEXICO."
ever, the Captain of the Arkansas ordered the men to cut the
hawser, and the Amazon swung round, whilst the tow was
getting out her anchors, which being done, the Amazon heaved
the hawser again, and was towed by her about five miles ; but
the steamer getting along so slowly with but one wheel, the
other having become disabled, Captain Harding thought it
best to cut off from her, and accordingly we made sail for the
Balize, which we reached on the 1 1th inst. ; and, notwith
standing the schooner had received considerable damage, yet
I determined to proceed on my voyage with the brave little
Captain of the Amazon.
Upon my arrival at the Balize, it was with much regret
that I learned that Mr. John Duncan would go no farther ;
for I found, on my short acquaiutaintance with him, a most
interesting travelling companion. Mr. Duncan had won my
friendly feelings, and I had hoped that the tedium of a sea voy
age would have been whiled away in the pleasant society of
a fellow countryman. It is to those alone whose misfortune,
or peculiar condition, can with deep sensibility feel the solace
of friendship, which agreeably to the common acceptation of
the word, as the poet has called it, "but a name ;" and as an
unremembered author, I think, remarks, " The hopes that are
formed but to be disappointed ; the disappointments which
are in reality blessings ; the longings for that which would
prove destructive ; the joys that kill, and the sorrows that
make alive, can only be condoled with, and enjoyed alone, but
by the participation of friendship." I am not one of those
who believe that the better feelings of the human heart should
be alienated from his fellow beings, because there are some
false friends ; but, to the contrary, think that there is much
reward in even a casual or partial unison with others ; al
though, ultimately, the object of our love or friendship should
prove false or coquetish. It therefore cannot bo surprising
that I, with much lively sensibility, bade adieu to my friend,
for he was the only American of whom I could at that time
take leave ; and, in doing so, I felt that tlie last link had been
broken between myself and my fellow citizens of the United
States. True to the adage, that the " loss of one is the gain of ano
ther," for I perceived the captain, who had gone ashore, re
turning, having in his boat two strangers, whom I hoped were
passengers, and indeed it resulted in the fact, that when they
came on board, one of them, Mr. James Duplessis, was bound
for Mexico. All being on board, and the pilot waiting, the
Amazon weighed anchor, and we again sailed for the Gulf, by
way of the N. E. Pass. When we had arrived there, a most

TRAVELS IN MEXICO^ 15
singular phenomenon was to be witnessed ; for as the Missis
sippi river, which had for more than two thousand miles irre
sistibly swept every thing before it, mingling in its muddy and
rapid current alike the forest and the " terra flrma," yet, as it
met its mother ocean it was, with a degree of modesty unex
pected — for just where the river mouthed against the sea,
there seemed to be a perfect line of demarcation between the
dark waters of the river, and the clear, deep, blue salt ele
ment; notwithstanding tlie river came rushing, as long as
confined between banks, with bounding wave and foaming
surge, yet as it breasted the sea, all was calm and tranquil ;
for the waters of the mighty deep held it back as but a thing
of nothing, and the salt flood of the Gulf seemed to spurn an
union with its kindred element of the river, for it could not
be perceived, just at the juncture, that there was a mingling
of the two ; but the pilot informed me that the current was
supposed to be the strongest at the bottom of the river, and
by that means, "was lost in the ocean.
At the mouth of the N. E. Pass, the Amazon again cast an
chor, for there the pilot, Captain John Brown, was to part
with us; as also Dr. G. A. Bernard, who had accompanied his
friend, Mr. Duplessis, thus far ; likewise, Mr. Duncan, who
was to return with the Doctor, in Captain Brown's boat.
As on this occasion there were more than myself to take
leave of friends and fellow countrymen, some time was spent
in many parting words, and aspirations for a happy and safe
voyage. At length, the wine glass having passed around, and
as Captain Brown bad, in a most cordial manner shaken my
hand, and turned to descend the side of the vessel to his boat,
which was alongside, the captain, from some unperceived
cause, was precipitated head foremost overboard into the sea.
He was long out of sight, and to us all it seemed an age ; at
length, all observed the troubling of the water, and with ani
mated hopes we expected to behold the Captain ; but suddenly
our joy was chagrined by the appearance of a hugh monster of
a Porpoise, who, rising almost out of the water, and giving
one ol his well known rotary evolutions, again disappeared.
But Captain Brown did not tarry longer, for no sooner had the
Porpoise been lost to our sight than the Captain rose to the
surface, and, as I at that moment caught his eye, I never shall
forget the expression of despair depicted upon his countenance.
My friend, Mr. John Duncan, having leaped from the deck of
the Amazon into the pilot boat, grasped the captain with his
right hand and lifted him on board. Captain Brown, being
saved from a watery grave, remarked that, notwithstanding
he had fallen overboard, he had waked up the largest Porpoise

16 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
that he had ever seen ; and again, an affectionate leave hav
ing been taken, the Amazon weighed anchor, and spread her
canvass to a fair wind. In a few hours we were carried be
yond the sight of land.
We had been at sea but three days, when it was with much
regret I perceived that my accommodating little Captain
Harding was confined to his bed, from severe indisposition, and
my time was mainly occupied in watching his sick couch, which
afforded me much pleasure, as the deportment of the captain
so entirely differed from what I had understood to be the cha
racters ot sea captains ; and I could not consent that a polite
and good man should suffer in hours of extremity. But as I
occasionally felt some symptoms of sea-sickness, by confine
ment below, it was my habit, in accompaniment with Mr.
Duplessis, a very intelligent and agreeable gentleman, from the
city of New Orleans, in the lapse of the evening to sit on deck,
for at that hour the parching sun had lost half its power, and
the delightful sea-breeze was most congenially refreshing to
the traveller imprisoned in so small a compass as we had to
occupy. It was on the lovely evening of the 15th inst., when seated
on the deck as above described, the wind continuing fair, and
the Amazon rapidly splitting the waves, that I cast my eyes
around upon the broad expanse of waters that encircled me,
and then to the heavens above, when my attention was fixed
upon an extended cloud far to the westward, and so perfect
was the representation that, in the forgetfulness of the moment,
I really imagined that I beheld the Blue Ridge Mountain, with
its two high peaks of Otter; and, as I looked upon the view,
my bosom not only glowed with admiration, but was filled
with joy at an uspect familiar to me from my earliest infancy
— and I could but excluim, " Behold the Blue Itidge mountain;
my own native scenery !" My exclamation attracted the at
tention of all who were near me, and as neither passenger nor
crew had ever behold the sight of that lovely mountain, I was
called on to describe the resemblance ; and at once, with an
eagerness that would have surprised any individual familiar
with the mountains of Virginia, I commenced the tusk. But,
before completing the description my attention was arrested
from my delightful theme by the increased violence of the
wind, accompanied by that whizzing, M'histling sound in its
passage through the rigging of the vessel, which to a lands
man is not only startling, but really makes his hair stand
on an end. The mate having given the alarm, by shouting out
"a Norther," a storm much more destructive than any other
wind that sweeps the Mexican Gulf, and which is always pe-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 17
riodical in the months of October and November. My atten
tion having been thus diverted, and feeling filled with appre
hension, I at once determined to go below, discovering as I
did that I was in much danger, it thph being night, by the
swinging of the boom, as well as by the sweeping of the tack
ling of the vessel over the deck ; and that intention was also
hastened by the sudden heavy fall of rain. And thus, but a
few minutes previous, little did I think that, in the playfulness
of my thoughts, whilst resembling a cloud to a mountain, it
was pregnant with a storm so soon to be avalanched upon us.
Having reached the cabin, I soon felt my sickening sensations
returning, by the increased and more violent motion of the
vessel, and I accordingly climbed into my berth, for repose al
ways relieved me from any nauseating feelings I might have
experienced from sea-sickness. I had not lohg occupied my
berth, when by the activity evinced by the crew, as well as
from the violence with which the angry waves would beat
against the sides of the vessel, that a storm of no ordinary cha
racter was raging. After I had listened some time to the loud
and quick commands of the mate , that personage at length ap
peared in despair, and informed Captain Harding that a Nor
ther was raging, and that he would be glad if he would come
on deck, or else tell him what to do. The captain was at
that time laying in liis berth beneath my own, where he had
been confined for the last three days, from an accidental blow
he had received, being so disabled that he could but with dif
ficulty get in and out of it. He, therefore, could only reply
to his mate that he must do the best he could, and keep all
hands busy. It was not long after the mate had returned to
his command, before I was alarmed by hearirig all on deck ut
ter the shout of land ! land ! and the mate soon ordered the
long-boat to be lowered. As the crew were busied in obey
ing the order, and having myself ascended the gangway, it
was at that moment exclaimed, " A man overboard 1" and the
mate in the next instant responded, " He is lost ! he is lost !
Heave away, men !" I could not but feel the deepest sorro'tv
for the fate of the poor sailor, and again returned to rny berth
to meet my own, whatever it might be, by the hands of a kind
and divine Providence. But by his will we were saved, and the
vessel preserved harmless from wind ahd wave ; for as the
long-boat had been let down, as a last resort, in case the
schooner had been cast ashore, or driveh oh a rock, the wind
by degrees ceased to blow. At the dawn of day as the sai
lors, by command, proceeded to raise the long-boat, which was
still at our side, the silence and solemnity of the occasion evi-

18 TRAVELS IN MEXICO,
dently demonstrated that poor Will, who was lost was remern->
bered by all.
But as the sun ascended out of the sea, and lit up the eas
tern horizon, sublime indeed was the scene presented to our
view ; for whilst on the left was discovered a boundless ex
panse of water — to the right, arose, from the margin of the
sea, the lofty range of, as the captain of the Amazon called
them, the Perote mountains, which, as I was informed, were
of a general elevation of about twelve thousand feet above
the level of the Gulf. The mountains presented a dark,
blackish appearance, being covered with forest as well as I
could at the distance discover, on their lower regions. The
scene was a most picturesque and congenial one to me ; for
whilst, by the light of day, the land seemed an anchor of hope,
in the event of a storm, the scenery it presented reverted my
thoughts back to my own native hills, so much beloved.
Whilst the Gulf of Mexico is bound on the north and west by
a flat country, scarcely rising above the level of the ocean, it
seems that it is held to its place on the south by a long range
of mountains, in a crescent form, and of singular beauty,
against which the surging of the waves in their fury is harm
less. However, agreeable to the old nautical adage, that " a
calm always succeeds a atorm," the day succeeding the night
of the gale, wo were in a state of perfect calm ; nor did we
make more than twelve miles progress during tho period of
twenty-four hours. This day was most amusingly spent iu
harpooning sharks, and also in hooking other fish, much to the
joy of our Dutch cook, who, as they were hauled in, would
dilate upon their specific qualities, explaining why the one
was better for soup, whilst the other should be for the pan or
broil. On the 17th inst., although the calm continued, yet myself
and Mr. Duplessis were richly repaid for all the delay, incon
veniences and dangers we had encountered by having our at
tention called, on the morning of the day in question, to the
magnificent view of tho perpetually snow-capped Orizava,
lying west of Vera Cruz ; lat. 19 12, long. 9G 08, and said by
some to rise to a height of about 22,895 feet above the level
of the sea. The Orizava, in its sublimity of aspect, can nei
ther be imagined nor described, yet the impression it had upon
my mind was that its lofty summit was the most beautiful
scene of nature I had ever beheld.
The morning was clear and cloudless, in consequence of
the calm of the preceding twenty-four hours, and it was there
fore that, at a distance of forty miles from land, we had the

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. iq
incomprehensible and beautiful view of the hoary height of
the Orizava. To picture the scene so that the imagination
could encompass its many beauties and grandeur, would be
an undertaking beyond the most graphic powers of any pencil
or pen; and, therefore, it is reasonable to conclude that I
have no intention of impeaching the fancy of the reader, who
will excuse me when I say that the view, as presented to me,
seemed to be a vast pile of mountains rising immediately from
the margin of the sea, one above the other, of variegated
heights and formations of peaks, covered by the deepest green
vegetation, and that, too, perpetual ; but, pre-eminently rising
above them all, the eternally snow-capped monarch of moun
tains, in all the sublimity of grandeur, appeared in lofty mag
nificence to dazzle back the rays of the sun, reflecting, from
its exceeding purity of whiteness, glittering gems of the most
resplendent brightness, far above the comparatively diminu
tive aspirations of other lofty summits, or the rude and am
bitious footsteps of inquiring man.
After we had for nearly two days been becalmed, in full
view of the Orizava, on the morning of the 19th inst., u de
lightful trade wind, so called by the sailors, sprang up, and
again put our fast-sailing little schooner in merry motion, by
rapidly plunging it against the waves, and making it but a
trifle to mount the stoutest of them. As evening approached,
I observed the captain taking an observation with his spy
glass, and, on inquiring of him if he could look into port, he
smilingly handed me the glass, saying, " There, look for your
self." When I had taken the instrument, after spying a few
times to the right and left, the light-house and the Castle of
San Juan de Ulloa fell full upon my sight ; and, raising it a
little higher, the walls of the city, the cupolas, domes, and
high towers of both church and cathedral plainly informed me
that the much desired port of Vera Cruz was in full view.
Upon being satisfied that we were about to enter the destined
haven, which, on one occasion at least, had been despaired of
by me, I did not lose time, although the sea was rough, in
making my face acquainted with my razor, to which it had
been a total stranger for the last seven days, and in opening
my trunk for the last time, until it should pass through the
Custom-house ; for at a distance we could perceive a pilot
boat belting the breakers, upon which were visible several
wrecks, which lay between us and the island of Sacriflcios.
To myself who, abroad, had never before witnessed the board
ing by a pilot, it was an interesting sight. The boat was
small and manned only by the pilot and a boy ; it had to
make a circuit of about two miles to reach us, whilst the

60" TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Amazon would have to sail scarcely one ; and as the wind
was high, and the boat light, it seemed to skim the water
with a swiftness equivalent to a plumed arrow shot from an
Indian bow. As the pilot came alongside the schooner, I was
much amused by the declaration of our cook, who was a
Dutchman, exclaiming that, if the pilot belonged to him, he
would be certain of making his fortune, by exhibiting the man
as the baboon of his race. Indeed the pilot to me was a cu
riosity, for added to his naturally dark and sun-burnt fea
tures, the long glossy hair of his head perfectly black, besides
the grizzly-looking beatd that covered his chin and month, in
tom-puss fashion, circling up to his eyes, made the man appear
more like a monster who had strayed from the frozen regions
of the Orizava, or like the grizzly bear of the North, who had
ventured to sea upon an iceberg in search of prey. The pilot
being the first Mexican I had ever seen, I felt myself much
disappointed, if he was a fair specimen, from what I had
imagined their appearance to be; however, I afterwards
learned that he was an Indian.
At six o'clock, p. M-, we entered the port of Vera Cruz,
which is of difficult access, and were safely anchored under
the frowning guns of the Castle San Juan de Ulloa ; and, as
I cast my eyes along its battlements, the many marks of
French cannon balls were yet plainly visible, being the re
maining admonitions to Santa Anna of Louis Philippe's
displeasure, and chastisement of French wrongs. Mr. Du-
plessis and myself at once determined to spend the night on
shore, and as there are no wharves at Vera Cruz, we were
politely tendered a small boat, by the captain of a Mexican
steamer, as that of the Amazon was employed in placing the
anchor of the schooner ; our baggage, therefore, having been
transferred to the boat, and having taken seats ourselves, we
were landed in quick time, at a distance of about three
hundred yards upon the Mole, which is extended into the
water about fifty yards, from immediately opposite the only
gate of the city fronting the sea. The Mole, as is the case
always, upon the arrival of a vessel, was crowded with peo
ple from every clime, as well as by citzens, sailors, and
soldiers of the city ; and to me, who had for the first time
landed upon the terra fa-ma of a foreign country, the sight
was striking and novel ; for at one glance I beheld the black
colour of the African — the tawny complexion of the Indian—
the brunette of the Spaniard— as well as the fairer hue of the
Europeans : and it did appear to me that had I been at the
Tower of Babel, when tho confusion of languages took place,
my ears could not have been saluted by a greater jargon of

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 2}.
sounds, or my eyes with the sight of so much variety of
costume ; and, for a mixed multitude, it surprised me to be
hold such a marked indifferent expression of countenance and
mien, of which I shall hereafter again speak; defying any
stranger to tell who were the Mexicans, otherwise than from
the uniforms of the soldiers. Although the Mexicans are
more or less dark complexioned, yet there are a goodly number
of people in Mexico who are of pure Castilian and Hidalgo
blood of old Spain, as well as descendants of other Europeans
and North Americans ; and, therefore, the darker coloured
portion of the population are the Indian, and the consequent
shades produced from the admixture with the Indian ; how
ever, at the same time, there is no blood so pure in Mexico,
but what is in some degree mixed with the native aboriginal
Indian. The ancient Mexicans had the honour of planting
their ownrace in Spain; for the "beautiful princess Tecuichpo
is commemorated by the Spaniards, since from her, by mar
riage, are descended some of the illustrious families of their
own nation."
In consequence of the lateness of the hour when Mr. Du-
plessis and myself landed upon the Mole, it was impossible for
us to pass our trunks through the custom-house ; we therefore
repaired to the " Casa dc la Diligcncia," the Diligence House,
the principal hotel kept in the place. Its landlord, was a fine
looking Irishman, by the name of Bell. It was our determi
nation to spend our first night in Vera Cruz, in quietness and
repose, so that we might on the following morning feel re
freshed from our sea-voyage, and thereby enjoy our ramble
and the view of the city more ; but how sadly were we dis
appointed ; for the bells of the public buildings, that were
constantly ringing in honour of a saint, as I was informed,
perpetuated their clack-a-clack, and we had not more than
fairly retired to bed by the hour of nine, than the loud report
of a big gun from the Castle was heard ; then followed the
ringing of all the bells of the cathedral and churches, which
produced the most deafening peal that had ever stunned my
senses — this was followed by the beating of drums and the
blowing of fifes and trumpets, and for the balance of the
night, as if intended for our distress, besides the diligent biting
of fleas and musquitoes we were kept awake by tbe crying of
the watch-word of the sentinels, who were posted at every
comer of the street, two of whom had their position near to
us ; and for the first night, notwithstanding our anticipated
luxury of sleeping in a bed on shore, I was kept listening to
the stentorian voices of the sentinels crying every half hour— «
Ave Maria purissima, los dos y media serenis, &c.

2i TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
The following morning being Sunday, the 20th instant, Mr.
Dimond, the American Consul for the port of Vera Cruz, a
polite gentleman, and withal very accommodating, marked
for his business habits, did me the favour of calling on me, and
invited me to take a stroll with him to view the emporium of
the great mart of Mexico, denominated by its founder, Her
nando Cortes, in 1519, Valla Rica de la Vera Cruz — the rich
town of the true cross — and so long as the Spaniards were its
owners, it was in truth the rich town of the New World. The
city of Vera Cruz is enclosed by a continued wall, built of
coral stone and brick, stuccoed on the outer and inner sides.
The streets, running north and south, east and west, are nar
row, and all paved with stone, shipped from the United
States. The town is laid off in squares, and the houses are a
solid mass of buildings, covering the whole squares. When
you have seen one house in Vera Cruz you have seen them all,
for tliere is a perfect sameness in their architecture. The
houses are built of stone or brick, and stuccoed on the outside,
which is whitewashed or painted. Each building being of a
square form, has its paved or flagged court within, and a
flight of steps conducts you to the corridor of each story, the
corridors extending around the building, as often as there are
stairs, are broad and paved with either brick or tile, and
strongly cemented together. The doors of the rooms all open
to the corridors, aud the floors of the rooms are also of tile,
and with very few exceptions of Mosaic marble. The floors,
by the most tastefully cultivated people, are either painted, or
covered with oil cloth or carpets. It is but seldom that win
dows are seen in the first stories of buildings ; and when per
ceived they are strongly barred with iron grating. There are
no windows to tho outer walls of the upper stories, excepting
those fronting the streets; the greater number of windows to
the buildings are from the inner walls, looking out upon the
corridors. Generally, to each door and window fronting the
street, there is a short jutting platform, railed and barred with
iron, upon which the inhabitants can sit or stand for observa
tion or airing ; and often have I been reminded, when observ
ing the inhabitants seated on these platforms, in their silent,
demure and solemn gravity, looking in a most careless and
spiritless manner, upon all' that might be transpiring around
them, of a Beaver Village, where here and there some dark,
grave beaver of a line fur would be sunning in his window^
not knowing that happiness or misery dwelt in the breasts of
any other creature but itself, and when satiated with looking
and sunning, dive back again into his strong hole.
The houses of the city, without exception, are flat-roofed ;

Travels in mexico. 23
the roofs being covered with tile or brick, and strongly ce
mented, and thus rendered Are and water proof; however,
fire is the least of all the dangers that a Mexican anticipates
to befal his house, for it is universally without a chimney. On
the tops of the buildings are built observatories, which, at a
distance improves the view of the town. In front of the Casa
de la Diligencia, is a Plaza, or public square, of about two
acres of ground, and directly opposite the Casa de la Diligen
cia is what was once the Palace Royal, but now a bar
racks and a prison. The public buildings, and especially
the churches, are of stupendous dimensions and magnificently
finished within.
There is a religious building in Vera Cruz, of Jesuit origin,
noted for its massiveness and the great strength of its walls,
for the Jesuits were not only remarkable for their ambitious
grasping after power, but also for fortifying themselves in
whatever they undertook. The elegance of one private build
ing above another, can only be discovered by entering into
the court of the house, as but seldom do they make much out
side show. On some of the squares, the portals extend over
the side-walks, and thus the citizens in the streets are pro
tected from the inclemency of the weather, and the intense
heat of the sun. I was not in any of the houses at Vera Cruz
but those occupied by foreigners, and I did not observe any
material difference, as to the manner in which they were fur
nished, from those of the United States, saving that the corri
dors were hung around with cages filled with many coloured
birds, and whilst, indeed, some were sweetly warbling notes
divine, yet the intolerable jargon of the parrot, with his ear-
piercing whistling, and squalling, entirely destroyed the me
lody of the other beautifully feathered songsters.
There was also one other thing that invariably attracted
my attention wherever 1 went, whether in public or private
buildings, viz : a brass urn, called a Brazcro, in which were
heaped live coals of fire, and as an Englishman of poetic ima
gination remarked, " that eternal fires were kept burning in
those brazei'os in imitation of the ancient Mexicans, who kept
perpetual fires in their temples in honour of the sun;" how
ever, no one could long remain in ignorance of their purpose,
as the inhabitants never passed in or out without first touch
ing the end of their paper or tobacco cigars, to a live coal of
the brazeros, and thus, by that means, keep the eternal tires
burning also at their mouths, whilst two streams of perpetu
ally curling smoke were issuing from their nostrils ; for the
Mexican first swallows the smoke, and then ejects it through
his nose, believing it to be a very beautiful sight.

2,^, TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
The health of Vera Cruz is perhaps worse than that of any
other place on the habitable globe, and it is calculated that
one-fifth of its inhabitants annually perish ; for, from the
month of Juno until October, the Mexican Vomito has a reign
of terror, ^arryipg to the tomb the old and young, and but
seldom sparing the foreigner. The sickness of Vera Cruz is
attributed to the increased intensity of the sun's heat, reflect
ed from the high white sand-hills, that overlook the town,
as also from the poisonous vapour which arises from the stag
nant waters of the lakes and swamps which surround the
city. The venomous insects that infest that hot region add
likewise in no small degree, by never leaving the inhabitants
to repose, and consequently causing feverish excitement and
irritation, to promote disease; yet, it is asserted in history
that, previous to the discovery of Mexico, and long after its
settlement, the mortality as now known at Vera Cruz had
not its existence ; and thus, but in another instance, exhibit
ing the fact that, wherever the white man erects his habita
tion and plants civilization, pestilence and bilious maladies
are his consequent accompaniments. However, the Northers
at Vera Cruz, like the frost at New Orleans, purify the atmos
phere, and dissipate disease. The Northers, as before stated,
are periodical, in the months of October and November, and
notwithstanding their destructive tendency upon the sea, yet
they have a highly beneficial effect on land, breaking down
the luxuriancy of vegetation on the coast, and driving before
them all infection which the intense heat of summer may have
taken from the decomposition of the vegetable kingdom ; and
thus it can be easily perceived that nature, in her economy,
musf have designed that as the frost never falls upon tho
plains of Mexico to kill malaria and destroy green vegetation,
those north winds so much dreaded at sea, are sent in bless
ing to the landsmen.
Soon after my arrival at Vera Cruz, I gave to the servant
who attended my room some clothing to be washed ; but he
soon returned with my bundle, bringing with him a German
lady of the establishment as his interpreter, and informed me
that the washerwoman refused to take the clothes, unless I
would release her from all responsibility if a Norther should
carry them away ; whereupon assuming the hazard, on the
following day, upon short notice, the winds came, and scat
tered my clothing like kites in the air, some to the country,
and some to the sea, and some perhaps to needy Mexicans.
The inhabitants, on the first appearance of the coming storm,
are compelled immediately to tightly bar their doors and win
dows, stopping up the key-holes, and every other crevice, and

TRAVELS' IN MEXICO. 6$
to keep them So, long after the Norther ceases to blow, to pte*
vent light articles of their houses from flying away, as1 also
their eyes frOni being put out by the sand thickly floating
in the air.
A French gentleman, Mons. P. Tlraillier, described to me the
terrible havocs of a Norther, as seen by himself from bis own
window, in which nine vessels perished, one of which was
driven against the walls of the city, whilst another was npset
upon the beach, and on the following day, when she was Scut*
tied, six liVe men, to the joy and surprise of the wreckers,
were disembowelled from the schooner, which was half filled
with water.

CHAPTER III.
Dined with Mr. Dimond. Descriptions of ruins. Ma de los Saori'
ficios. War-god Huitzilopotchili. The Mexicans believe that
the period had arrived for the return of their deity. Cannibal
priesta. Arrival of Cortes. Montezeuma's embassy. Vespus;
Marina. Arrest of four Americans and two Dutchmen. Spanish
treasure. Consent of Santa Anna to search for money. Arrest
of Captain Place. Four days in Vera Cruz. Departure from
Vera Cruz. The Ladrones. Description of them. Duplicity of
the Mexicans. Santa Anna's wooden leg.
Mr. Dimond, with whom I dined on Sunday, the first day
that 1 spent in Vera Cruz, was a native of the State of Con
necticut ; but his lady was a Virginian, which fact I was not
apprised of until I had remarked to him, whilst at his house,
the striking resemblance I discovered in a portrait likeness
that hung in his drawing-room, of Dr. Parker, formerly of Vir
ginia ; when the consul informed me, that the old doctor was
his father-in-law ; — a most singular coincident. Mr. Dirndhd,
for many years previous to his removal to Vera Cruz, hadVbeen
the American Consul at Port au Prince, and in his conversa
tion with me unhesitatingly said, that it was his conviction,
resulting from his long residence in Hayti, that the slaves of
the South, in the United States, were happier, and better pro
vided for, than the blacks of that island, with their boasted
freedom. Dinner being over, I accepted his polite invitation
to accompany him in a walk to the Passid, which name, ad I
understood, means ft drive dr promenade.
-B

n

(TRAVELS IN MEXICO.

The city of Vera Cruz, previous to the revolution, contained
about twenty-five thousand inhabitants; but, distressing to
tell, it does not now possess more than about four thousand.
The general appearance of the town shows great decay and
dilapidation ; for the many scourges, by war and the decline
of commerce, resulting from a system of government policy,
which we shall hereafter explain, has reduced the once flourish
ing port of Mexico into a heap of ruins, and a by-word for
civilized nations.
Upon my reaching the passio, which is beyond the west
ward gate of the city, my soul was pained at the ruin and
waste that I there beheld. Much of the beauty of the Passio
itself yet remained, for a large portion of its pavement, made
of smooth and shiny bitumen — its many seats and circles — are
yet perfect, affording the visitor much recreation, while strol
ling along its walks, as, at the same time, he feels refreshed
by the cooling sea-breeze, which, at the hour of evening, al
ways, most congenially, wafts in gentle zephyrs over it. But
how sadly changed the scene since the old Dons of Spain are
no longer there to improve and dignify the place. In vain the
visitor looks for the flower-gardens, and the groves of orange,
lemon and cocoa-nut trees, as, also, the pine-apple plant, fill
ing the air with fragrance, as well as the fountains of water
which skirted the Passio on both sides.
This delightful walk once pierced the centre of a broad
street, bounded, on either hand, for half a mile, by rows of
beautiful buildings — where are they now? — tumbled into
ruins ; — for there can be beheld the broken columns and fallen
dome of a proud and lofty church, where once pealed the notes
divine of the solemn organ. Indeed, ruin and decay may be
seen in all, — in whatever direction the eyes may be turned,
literally are beheld, "walls bowed, and crushed seats." How
impressively does the scene of this place remind the looker-on
of the vanity and futility of all human things; and how me
lancholy the reflection to him who can stand on the spot and
meditatively contemplate over the falling dwellings and
palaces; where once the Spanish belle, with her tuned guitar,
sweetly warbled her touching notes in the ears of her lover •
— falling into heaps of mouldering rubbish, —
" The oru3h'd relies of their vanquished might,"
a retreat and shelter for sheep and swine ; or else, made places
for the butchering and the drying of meat. I am persuaded,
from what I have learned of the history of Mexico, and all I
have seen of Vera Cruz, that no greater calamity could have

TRAVELS IN MEXICO.' 57
befallen any people, than the acquisition, by the Mexicans, of
their independence, and the expulsion of the old Spaniards
from her dominions.
At the end of the Passio my attention was attracted by the
sound of music, and, on approaching a falling building, which
yet had standing a portion of its portal, supported by pillars,
was seen a motley crowd ; one of the men, a Mexican, was
strumming on an indifferent Spanish guitar, while a negro was
also thumbing a kind of harpsichord, peculiar to the country.
As the music was going on, a woman and a man were dancing,
what I was informed to be a fandango. The woman wore the
hat of her partner, and the dance consisted in a lazy shuffle to
a slow tune. At a period of every five or ten minutes, the wo
man would commence a plaintive ditty, in which the whole
crowd would join in chorus, and, what would otherwise have
rendered the music agreeable, was, that the male voices at
tempted to imitate the female, and produced such a shrill,
hideous sound, the like of which, for music, I had never before
heard more ridiculous. Upon my inquiring the reason of the
lady's wearing the hat of the gentleman, I was informed that
whenever an individual desired to dance with a lady, he would
first present her with his hat, and, if she thus accepted his in
vitation, he could not again obtain his hat without redeeming
it by paying one dollar; and in this way, I was told, the
loafers of Vera Cruz devoted every Sabbath evening.
Upon continuing my walk further on the green turf of the
level plain, a small building, with a belfry, and a high wall,
encircling a large plat of ground, all of an antique and decayed
appearance, struck my view. This was the cemetery, whose
ready portals were continually receiving so large a portion of
the human family. About midway between myself and the
cemetery, I discovered the habit of a priest, and about him
were some six or eight individuals, and I was informed, that
at that place the priests were in the custom of meeting the
corpse brought out of the city for interment, as to go too often
into the cemetry was considered to expose too much the life
of the holy father, and therefore there performed the last
solemn duties of ablution, and of sprinkling dust and ashes
over the remains of a departed fellow-being returning to his
mother earth.
My mind, dissatisfied with all the objects presented to my
view, my thoughts could but revert, with the Made los Sacri
fices in broad aspect of the Passio, to the early history of the
country. In 1618, Grijalva had the distinguished fame of be
ing the first European who set foot on Mexican soil, and, at.

28 TRAVELS IN MEX1C0V
the island afbove mentioned it was, where the Spaniard first
beheld the triekling blood of human hecatombs on the altars of
the Mexican war-god Huitzilopotchili, and from tho ensan
guined temples erected for his worship, perpetually ascended
the sinoke of human sacrifices in eyery town of the empire.
HoW Yast> *hen, the destruction of human life 1 In the mystic
legends of the Mexicans, as to one of their tutelary deities, the
god of. tbe air, Quetzalcoatl, prepared the way by which, alone,
a, handful of Spaniards were enabled to overthrow a vast and
powerful empire. This air god, doomed to exile by a superior
divioityj was tall ia stature, with a white skin, long dark hair,
and Si flowing beard. Seated in his wizzard skiff, made of ser
pents.? skins, he embarked upon the Mexican gulf, to glide over
the great Vaters of the fabled land of Hapallaw. But, pre
vious to hia departure, he promised his friends that himself
and his descendants would again visit a country which he
BO much loved. And divine will did so provide, in the abund
ance of time, thai the fair regions of Mexico should no longer
be doomed to the loathsome and degrading practices of canni
balism, to satiate the bloody and depraved appetite of a frantic
ftad bigoted priesthood. And, as an elegant author has re
marked, it is 'f strange that in every oountry the most fiendish
passions of the human heart have been those kindled in the
name! of religion."
It happened that, in the reign of Montezeuma, the Mexicans
were generally impressed with the1 opinion that the time had
arrived for their god Quetzalcoatl to return — that deity so un
like the aspect of the Indian — for, with hair not so black, with
fair skin and flowing beard, was a god incarnate, of person
Superior in dignity of mien to themselves ; and, when com
pared to their other deities, possessed a beauty and ft pureness
entirely differing from the hideous appearance of other divini
ties, to appease the wrath of whom, it eternally required the
smoking hearts of thousands of their Indian race to send up
their barbarous and superstitions oblations to heaven, as the
dear prize of their homage and devotion to thenl. Not so with
Quetzalcoatl, for he had been their benefactor when residing
amongst them, apd, in the plenitude of his goodness, taught
them the use and the art of manufacturing metals, a shining
helmet of which he wore upon his head. He also instructed
them how to cultivate their fields in maize, a single ear of
Which was a lOad for one man. In fine, this god had been
their benefactor in every thing that was useful, or which con
tributed to their comfort and happiness ; therefore it was with
mingled hopes and fears that the Mexicans looked with con-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 29
fidence for the appearing of him who was to guide them in
the ways of knowledge, and to more exalted spheres of feli
city- '
The convictions of the Mexicans, in the time of Monter
zeuma, that the period had arrived for the return of their deity,
and, fortunately for the Spaniards, that opinion had been
strengthened, just previously to their landing on the shores of
Mexico, by the great lake of Tezcuco of the valley of Anahuac,
without wind or earthquake, being suddenly tossed in boister
ous waves, and overflowing its banks, sWeeped from before
its tide many of the houses of the city of Mexico ; then a turret
of the great temple took fire, without the cause of the lightning'
flash, or the hand of the incendiary, and defied alike the power
of water to extinguish its flames, or the arm of man to arrest
jts progress ; and then, the before unseen, shining orbs in the
heavens, and a vivid sheet, or flood of fire, that sptead along
the broad expanse of the horizon to the east, rising to a pyra
mid, and tapering to a point as it ascended to its zenith, and
at the same time voices of invisible spirits, or the whispering*
of their gods, was heard in mournful and mysterious waiJings
in the air, prognosticating some calamity to their country ; or
else, the evidences of the gatherings of the wrath of the per
turbed spirits of their gods, to break in future time upon the
devoted heads of poor Indians.
As Montezeuma, and his subjects, upon the arrival of the
Spaniards, had a deep and mystic cloud cast over their spirits,
by the troubling of the waters of the lake, and the terrific ap
pearances of the heavens, they could but speedily anticipate
the downfall of their empire. Indeed, to the royal Indian
monarch, they were the handwriting upon the wall that made
Belshazzar's knees smite together; and, to all human ken,
were but angry and sublime enunciations of an all-wise over
ruling providence to an ignorant and bigoted people, that the
white man, with thunder and lightning in his hand, was soon
to demolish, and hurl from the battlements of their towering
temples, the ensanguined deities and insatiate cannibal priests,
from the performance of their damned rites, and in its stead,
erect the standard of the cross, from which can be seen the
bipod of the Lamb which taketh away the sins of the world ;
— and the terrible fate that overtook the priesthood of Monte
zeuma Should be a monument of warning to those of the pre*
sent day, of the true God's displeasure with wickedness and
abominations. It was, therefore, under the superstitious presentiments of
Montezeuma, in the latter years of his reign, that Hernando
Cortes, oh the morning of the 21st April, 1519, landed on the

30' TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
spot where now is the city of Vera Cruz ; and, as I cast my
eves over the level plain, and beheld the white sand-hills,
formed by the drifting of the sands during the blowing of the
northern tornadoes, I could but picture, in my imagination,
that I beheld the chivalrous few, under the banner of Castile,
and commanded by the intrepid Cortes, encamped upon one ot
the eminences overlooking the plain below, and the surround
ing country ; whilst, at the same time, the natives, with pre
sents of gold and flowers in their hands, came flocking in from
all parts to behold the wonderful strangers. As they are pon
dering in their minds, whether or not the beings they beheld
were gods, and of the family of Quetzalcoatl, or but mere men
like themselves— behold I an embassy from the royal monarch
of the land arrives, headed by a noble, Tuehtlile ; and, as he
touches the earth with his hand, and then raises it to his head
—see ! he lays at the feet of Cortes, a golden sun, and silver
moon, of ponderous weights, besides an hundred loads of rich
and precious things of the country. Hear ! — the bell has tolled
the hour of vespers, and the Spaniards have all fallen to their
knees ; and, as father Olmedo, with solemn reverence, offers
up his supplications to the most high God, the awe-struck
natives are amazed at the worship of, to them, the unknown
God of the Christians.
The religious services being ended, — see ! in what bold re
lief the lovely Indian interpreter, Marina, whom chance had
thrown in the possession of the conqueror, and of whom it is
said, that Cortes " first made her his interpreter, then his se
cretary, and afterwards, won by her charms, his mistress, by
whom he had a son, Don Martin Cortes ; whom, although dis
tinguished by his parentage, yet the Inquisition put him to
the rack in the very city won by the sword of his father."
Yes, hear her, in the soft, sweet cadence of her voice, so pe
culiar to the females of her people, informing the great noble,
that Cortes "was the subject of a potent monarch beyond the
seas, who ruled over an immense empire, and had kings and
princes for their vassals ; that, acquainted with the greatness
of the Mexican empire, his master had desired to enter into a
communication with him, and had sent him as his envoy to
wait on Montezeuma with a present, in token of his good-will."
— And hear the noble express his " surprise to learn there was
another monarch as powerful as Montezuma," and inquire,
" How is it that you have been here only two days, and de
mand to see the emperor ?" — Long did my thoughts thus revel
upon the early history of the country, (which, at the present
day, although authentic in all its parts, yet, as seen through
the vista of time, seems to be but the fabled account of some

TRAVELS IN MEXICoii <$![
ingenious romance,) until, at length, admonished by the late-*
ness of the hour, I returned to the city and my lodgings.
Monday morning, the 20th instant, was hailed by me with
much satisfaction, as my trunk had to remain locked up in the
custom-house all day Sunday ; the officers of Vera Cruz refus
ing to do business on that day, which disposition to keep the
Sabbath, in this respect, loudly reflects to their credit.
After breakfast, Mr. Dimond requested the key of my trunk,
saying that he would make application for it in person, and I
did not hesitate to comply with his kind offer, by accepting
the proffered service ; for no one can feel comfortable without
their wardrobe : and, as my journal, too, was in my trunk, I
felt out of employment without it. Mr. Dimond was not long
absent before he returned, and informed me, that he had passed
my baggage through the hands of the officers of the custom
house, and a laughable time he had of it, he said, in a scramble
for my chewing tobacco. I was aware, previous to my going
to that port, that the article of tobacco was contraband, but
who ever heard of an old Virginian starting on a journey
without especially having first provided himself with a few
manufactured lumps of the weed, to stimulate and cheer his
imagination, in his absence from friends, and to give his
mouth employment, whilst sitting in strange places, for the
want of acquaintances with whom to converse. I had inten
tionally deposited my tobacco on the top of all the other ar
ticles in my trunk, to prove thereby, that I had no disposition
to smuggle it ; and, therefore, no sooner was my trunk opened
than the best quality of that article that had ever come, per
haps, under the inspection of the officers of that port, lay
staring them in the face ; and no sooner was it seen than the
voracious Mexicans laid violent hands upon it, and deposited
it on a shelf in the store-room.
To this, Mr. Dimond made no objections ; and the officers
not finding any other goods, or more tobacco to seize upon;
as they were about to close my trunk, my friend informed
them, that the owner of that baggage ate the tobacco which
they had taken, and that it was necessary for his comfort that
he should have it, which piece of information so surprised
them, that if I ate tobacco, they said I should have it.
However, my friend, Mr. Duplessis, was not so fortunate,
for he had to pay eighteen dollars duty on his snuff, for private
use. And thus, it seems, that while the Mexican was circling
the smoke of his cigarretto through his nose, thinking it the
only good way to use tobacco, I was amusing myself by
chewing my quid, and, at the same time, my New Orleans
friend, of French descent, was tickling his olfactory nerves by

lii TRAVELS IN MEXICO,
-cppioiM! pinches £>/ *auSJ id the delightful sneezing and conr
vulsiqn pf J4s whole system.
On my arrival at Vera Cruz, there was much excitement
(amongst the good pitizens of that place, in consequence of the
repent arrest pi" four Americans and two Putchnjen. These
were men who had been deluded into ap enterprise, which rer
suited in sonie very remarkable facts : and I am indebted to
the American consul, who was interposing his official autho
rity in their behalf, for a history of their, unjustifiable confine
ment. During the first revolution in Mexico, the old Spaniards
were ordered to leave the pountry, by the revolutionists. A
few wealthy persons, who were residents of Vera Cruz, deter
mined that, previous to departing upon their exile, they would
bury their gold and valuable plate in some select and secret
place, believing, as they did, that tlie insubordination of the
natives would soon be quelled by the royal forces; and, as
they could not, with safety, convey it out of Mexico ; to the
unknown place of their destiny, driven, as they were, to seek
refuge as best they could, from the homes of their adoption;
this party of Spaniards, putting a mutual trust in each other,
and with the common hope of again being permitted to reside
peaceably at Vera Cruz, buried their treasures on a tract of
land, now belonging to Santa Anna, distant from the city
about nine miles. A map having been accurately drawn, and
a written geography prepared, of the precise location where
the secret deposit had been made, the party made safe their
retreat from the scenes of revolution and persecution.
Time elapsed, and that, too, without a mitigation of the de
cree which expelled the refugees from Mexico, and, ultimately
all the leagued party had deceased in Europe, or the United
States, but one, and he, having made his retreat to New Or*
leans, the map and all the information appertaining to the
hidden treasure, on his demise in that city, fell into the hands
pf an individual who had been intimate with the deceased
.Spaniard ; and that person had employed the romantic adven
turers to visit Mexico, and to dig for the hidden wealth, with
a promise of a large portion of the products of the discovery,
if made. The credulous Americans, upon landing at Vera
Cruz, there found Santa Anna in a fret with his countrymen,
because they had not cheered him as formerly on his arrival
within their walls. The money-hunters unhesitatingly ac
quainted the dictator with their business, and requested his
permission to seaxch for the hidden treasures, which they in
formed him were upon his land. Santa Anna, after expressing
his want of faith in the narrative of the men, with much kind

TRAVELS IN MEXICO,. 33
frankness gave his consent that they .should, unmolested,
search his premises for their golden expectations, whenever
and a 9 long as they pleased. ,
The foreigners, delighted with their kind reception, and the
much-desired privilege granted to them, with thankful hearts,
promised the dictator a portion of the profits if successful ;
and immediately repaired to Mango de Clavo, Santa Anna's
hacienda campus, and commenced digging upon the spots of
ground designated by the map and the written directions.
But, to the great dismay of the party, before they had been
allowed time to make any satisfactory progress, a band of
soldiers came upon them, and, by the warrant of the dictator,
arrested all of them, on the charge of their having been sent
by the Texian government to assassinate him; and that their
object was, not to hunt for treasure, but for his blood, which
was more precious than mountains of gold. In support of this
ridiculous allegation, one of the minions of Santa Anna, who
had never seen Texas, and held no correspondence with the
executive of that government, as to its secret or avowed in
tentions, made oath to the charge. Thus there was no remedy
for the unfortunate adventurers but to be committed to gaol,
where they could indulge their fancies in golden visions.
As for the Mexicans, who ever, in the history of their coun
try, have been accustomed to the secret hand of their govern
ment-officers, in the degrading and vile acts of assassination
and low stratagem, they were easy to believe that the govern
ment of Texas could be guilty of so disgraceful a deed as to
commit an act of violence upon ,the person of the dictator.
But, to the contrary, it was the belief of all foreigners in the
country, that the charge was only a device of Santa Anna (in
which some of his countrymen thought him very smart) to ob
tain the chart and -instructions from these men, to secure to
himself, as it is said he did, eight thousand doubloons, which
had been buried by the old Spaniards.
Furthermore, to cap the climax of Santa Anna's perfidy, we
give the following account: — Captain Place, a commander of
an American merchant ship, who had arrived at Vera Cruz in
the ship Scotia, since my own landing, was arrested on the
same charge, without the least shadow of proof that he had
ever had any intercourse or connection with the Americans
who already were committed to prison ; but, to the contrary,
had never seen them, was also incarcerated in a loathsome
and vile prison at Vera Cruz. The object of Captain Place's
visit to that city was to collect from tlie Mexican government
the sum of ten thousand dollars, which was due to him, for
B 5

31 Travels in Mexico;
supplies furnished the Mexican army during the war with
Yucatan,' in its late and glorious struggle for independence.
As it regards the case of the American sea-captain, as I was
informed by a highly respectable gentleman of his profession,
it was obvious to all, that he had given no provocation what
ever for an impeachment to be brought against him, to the
effect of his being an accomplice with the Texians, as the dic
tator was pleased to denominate the American citizens, whom
he had charged with a design to assassinate him. And it was
thought to be the intention of Santa Anna, thus to pay the
debt of Mexico, by forcing Captain Place to purchase his
liberty at the dear rate of ten thousand dollars, he not having
been able, up to the time of my leaving Mexico, to obtain a
trial. The only comment, which every lover of good faith, among
Christiau people of every country, can bestow npon such shame
ful and barbarous conduct, (which the honourable portion of the
world, but for the publicity of the facts, will be hard of be
lieving, that one occupying so high a place as Santa Anna
could be guilty of,) is, that if the United States cannot, in
future, protect its citizens abroad, its national honour will be
for ever tarnished, and its boasted strength prove to be but
pompous imbecility.
My stay in Vera Cruz was four days, and on the 23d inst.
my Louisiana friend and self united a small allowance of
clothing in the same trunk, a small one purchased for the oc
casion, and designed for immediate uses on the road, and at
the city of Mexico, until our baggage should arrive there.
We were reduced to the necessity of such a resort, or else haz
ard the loss of all our trunks by the robbers on the way. We,
therefore, with drafts on houses in Mexico in our pockets,
called by the Mexicans libreances, and but fifteen dollars in
hand for expenses, having previously forwarded our trunks by
the conductor, and which were to arrive at the city of Mexico
in eighteen days from the time of their departure from Vera
Cruz, took our leave of the city.
The price of the transportation agreed on, was ten dollars
for each trunk. I found that to travel in Mexico, it is neces
sary to part with your baggage, and but occasionally to meet
with it, as you would some dear friend, who would be so
obliging as to make you an occasional loan, to supply your im
mediate necessities.
Our names having been entered at the dear rate of fifty dol
lars per seat in the diligencia, my departure was made, in com
pany with four Americans, two Mexicans, one Belgian, one

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. $i
Irishman and an English lady and her two children. At the
time appointed for the diligencia to leave on its journey was
eleven o'clock at night, it was a source of much regret to us
all, as we would have the more to hazard our lives and pro
perty by departing at so late an hour, as the vehicle had been
robbed on the three trips previous, almost at the gates of
Vera Cruz, on one of which occasions a passenger lost his
hand. Although it was of service to me, as I did not understand
the Spanish language, yet I could not but feel diverted when
a friend, who had interested himself in my behalf, informed
me of the words of command I would receive, if attacked by
(he robbers or Ladrones, as they are called in that language;
which were " boca baje," which phrase, being translated into
plain English, means " Stick your mouth in the dust;" a pe
remptory order, indeed, for unoffending travellers to receive,
who were about to be stripped of their property ; and, if re
sistance should be offered, their lives also. "When the brigands
hail the diligencia, the driver instantly comes to a halt, as he
well knows, that, if he should crack his whip, and try to make
safe his retreat from their murderous designs, (and sad experi
ence has convinced him by the downfall of others,) his life, on
an after occasion must pay the forfeit ; and, therefore, when a
halt is called, the poor passengers are invited, by theladrones,
to descend the steps and extend themselves, at full leDgth,
with their mouths to the earth ; from which position if they
should have the temerity to stir, they must receive either the
flat side, or the sharp edge of a broad-sword. But, as we had
been promised a double escort of soldiers, by the commandant
oftbo garrison, to protect us from the much dreaded ladrones,
we had but little anticipation of being interrupted.
How disagreeable it is to the traveller, wearied and fatigued
as he may be, to be deprived of even the pleasure of looking
out upon the prospect of the country, without the dreaded
idea of beholding land-pirates in ambush, or in the full gallop
of pursuit ; but how much more disgraceful it is for a govern
ment to tolerate, by their neglect to suppress the evil, so dis
honourable, unchristian, and criminal as it is, by permitting
such things to be so universally practised, not only upon the
public thoroughfares, but throughout the whole vast extent of
the Mexican dominions. It is a sin peculiar to themselves,
which should cover them with shame and the contempt of the
world .
It is a crime which cries aloud to heaven to scourge a na
tion for their acts of commission and omission ; and, as ad
ditional evidence of the testimony giyen by all travellers in

$5 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Mexico, and well depending the attention pf the .incredulous,
jvbo "find it difficult to believe :that such enormities should not
pply oe most open, ,but of outrageously frequent occurrence,
they have only to be reminded of the .notorious robberies com
mitted upon two of the American ministers in a brief space of
each pther, viz. Mr. Shannon, accredited to the government of
Mexico ; and Mr. Cushing, returning from China. True, Santa
Anna expressed his sorrow for the unfortunate Americans, but
his sympathy was as much felt at heart, as are the tears of the
crocodile. It would have been more congenial to his avari
cious feelings 'to have felt in his pocket the result of the barba
rous transactions, than to have wasted one moment's grief for
the unfortunate ministers.
Understanding, as I now do, the duplioity of the Mexicans,
and their policy, I should not be surprised if some in power
should have known more of Mr. Shannon's robbery than might
become them ; for all must remember the pendency of the
Texian question at that time. But as Santa Anna and his
officers are the acknowledged heads of a band of pirates, it
cannot be astonishing that he should tolerate such deeds ; un
less the ladrones should again steal his wooden leg, and throw
him in a passion, as it once happened, when he caused the
robbers to disgorge.

TRAVELS IN MEXTCQ, Bf

CHAPTER IV.
At 11 o'clock tho diligencia in waiting. Two Mexicans on the
back seat. Refusal to give it up for a lady. Departure from
Vera Cruz. Escort. Sand flies. Drifted sand. Large beetle,
Cocuyos. Vera Cruz road, the Bame that Cortes travelled. Tierra
caliente. Varieties of flowers and shrubbery. Sultry heat.
Halt of the diligencia at the Rancho. The escort takes leave.
Tho road paved like a street upward of three hundred miles.
President, Emperor and Dictator. Numerous bridges. La
Puenta del Ray. Breakfast. Romantic and sublime Bcenery,
Santa Anna's new building. First day's ride. Wild scenery.
Tierra teraplada. Stately forest. Varieties of musquite tree.
Orizava is not a part of the Perote mountains. Grand view of
the Orizava. The country volcanic. Lara. Jalapa. Wealth of
the Dictator. The medicine Jalapa. The Plaza. The ladies of
Jalapa. Departure from Jalapa. Humid vapours. Houses of
6eeds, sticks and earth. The aborigines. Tomb of an old
Spaniard. Picturesque scenery. The plain of Perote. Andes
and Cordilleras. Pastoral country. Pueblos built of Bun burnt
brick. Roman Catholic house of worship. The haciendas.
Ploughs in Mexico. Two perpetually snow-capped peaks. Arrival
at Pueblo. Priests imposing on the people. Cathedral of Pueblo.
The mountains covered with large timber. Arrieros. Mules
loaded with silver. Valley of Mexico. The promised land.
Geography of the valley of Mexico. A grand Bcene. Sterility
of soil. Lake region. Hot springs. Volcanic eruptions. The
causeway. Environs of Mexico. Lofty steeples. Arrived at the
city of Mexico on tho 26th Nov. Custom house.' Gran
Sociadad and Holy Ghost street.
At eleven o'clock on the night of the 23rd inst , the diligencia
was waiting for its passengers, and on their arrival it was
discovered that the two Mexicans had already secured the
back seat. The gentleman who had the English Lady in
charge, politely requested one of the Mexicans to give up hia
place, so that he, her protector, could be seated by her, and as
sist in holding her children. But to my surprise, contrary to
all usages of stage-coach travelling in the United States, and
to every thiDg else that I have observed in the distinguished
politeness of the Mexican people, they positively refused ; and
the lady, who could only ride on a back seat, was obliged to
be positioned between the two interesting Mexicans; they re
fusing also to give up the sides to a lady with an infant in her
arms. I have been informed, by gentlemen who have traveled

88 1RAVELS IN MEXICO?
in Europe, that such is the stubborn unkindness by which
ladies are treated on that enlightened continent, and it has
been with many feelings of shame that I have heard gentle
men, travelling in steamboats and stage coaches in the Union
express themselves, that Americans pay too much attention to
ladies ; yet it has ever been my opinion, that if politeness
should ever be extended from one human being to another,
where a sacrifice of interest was to be made, without excep
tion, the mothers of the human family should command that
offering. Having made our exit from the city of Vera Cruz through
the northern gate, we were met by our escort, mounted on
small pacing nags, with jingling spurs, rattling swords and
carbines. Our direction lay, for the most part of the night,
along the margin of the sea, tho road being over the drifted
sand, often blown up and re-modelled by the northers : and
during our ride over it, we were much annoyed by the sand fly
peculiar to that region, as also by the slow rate the team of
eight animals drew the sinking wheels of the diligencia over
the ponderous road. During the night the air was filled with
a species of large beetle, by name Cocityos. These displayed
wandering or floating fires, caused by intense phosphoric light,
emitted from their bodies, said to be strong enough to enable
a person to read by ; and I was reminded of the unparalleled
victory which, in that region of country, Cortes, with but two
hundred of his followers, obtained over nearly one thousand
of his fellow countrymen, under the command of Narvez ; the
enemy mistaking the lights of the insect for so many match
locks of their assailants. Our track from Vera Cruz to the city
of Mexico, was the same, or nearly so, which the immortal
Cortes and his brave companions travelled in the early con
quest of the country, leaving desolation and slaughtered thou
sands to cover his footprints ; and my mind M'as often filled
with the wonderful exploits performed by a few hundred of
the most chivalrous spirits known in the early period of the
sixteenth century.
My journey, for the most part of the first day, was over
scorched plains, having the temperature of the equinoctial
regions. This hot country, belting the whole coast of the
Gulf of Mexico, extends into the interior, a distance of about
fifty miles, and is denominated the tierra calivntc. Notwith
standing we had lo delve our way over parched sands, yet
there was often to be seen the deep" black mould of fertile soil
on which was inconceivable luxuriancy of growth of many
varieties of lovely aspect, and of aromatic wild flowers, and
shrubbery, mingled and matted with the larger and smaller

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 8*
species of the umbrageous musquite growths, so impenetrable
through ita multifarious thickness, to the view of man. Al
though the romantic beauties of this region were so pleasing
to the eye, yet from the suffocating oppression produced from
the sultry and relaxing heat of the tierra caliente, I was ex
tremely impatient to ascend a higher temperature, more agree
able to my feelings ; and also to be transported to an element
beyond the reach of malaria vomito.
It was not until after day light that I had my reflections
called home, by the sudden halt of the diligencia at a Rancho,
a collection of farm huts ; and before I had time to think what
was to be done, one of the soldiers of our guard had rode close
to the side of the diligencia, and informed the passengers that
there we were to have a new escort, adding also in the most
polite manner, that he and his companions were about to leave
us to our destinies ; all this was said with a most quizzical
leer of his shining black eye at his military cap, which he had
extended to the window of the carriage. The hint was too
impressive to be resisted, and after every passenger had
fingered his small change, and heard its parting jingle in the
soldier's helmet, the hero of the night took his accomplished
leave. An escort of Mexican soldiers, who are about to be relieved
are very particular in imparting the fact to travellers, and one
of them will always linger with his extended hat in his hand,
to receive any donations which may be thrown into it ; when
this is performed, he takes his affectionate adieu, and wishes the
passengers a pleasant journey. Such duns proved to be
troublesome, from the frequent change of escort ; which, in
some cases, would not have merrily trotted after us more
than two or three miles, before we would have to take leave
of the corporal and his command, by each of us handing over
our twenty-live cents. And I would therefore advise the
Minister of War to consult with the Minister of Finance, as
to more ad captandum ways and means of filching the "rhino"
from the pockets of defenceless men, women, and children,
who may be so fortunate as to travel in the great republic of
Mexico. Of little service does this guard often prove to be,
to those depending on them ; for, as I was told, at the first
sight of the bristled ladrones, the brave soldiers clap their
spurs to the sides of their steeds, and make safe their retreat.
However, as in Mexico, great show does much good, and
thereby as much delights the Dictator, I could not but be re
minded of the heroic proposition made by the commander of
the Chinese forces to the British general, to fight their battles
with blank cartridges, as the Emperor would be just as much

i

TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
leased with £he (reports pf the guns, as if they had real lead
nllets in th,eni.
But to return from the digression. Having descended from
the diligencia at the Rancho, where our first change of animals
was made, I expressed my surprise when I discovered that
the road I had travelled was broad, and jiaved with rpupd
stope, precisely as the principal streets are m towns and citiesi
in the United States. The road, which looked to me like q,
well-improved street, had, to prevent the washjpg of the
pavement by the rains, on the outer side of its bro.ad curbing,
capacious conductors, formed of cement, in which article,
from some cause I did not ascertain, the Mexicans seem to
excel all other nations : or else, those sluices were strongly
paved, and not unfrequently, at long and steep hills, they
have been hewn out of solid rock, and laid in their places
with admirable masonic precision.
It was with much agreeable disappointment I was infoim-
ed, that the road had, for a distance of three hundred miies
and upwards, been finished by the old Spaniards, precisely in
the same fashion ; but it had been suffered in many places to
go to decay by the Mexicans, from a want of energy, having
exhausted all their resources in revolutions, and the making Of
Presidents, Emperors, and Dictators — men so great — that upon
the broad expanse of this whole earth, the like have never
been seen ; while at the same time, the good people have been
vastly imposed on and benighted h> their downward condition.
The numerous bridges, spanning ravines and water courses,
all of arched masonry, are equal to any of the kind that I
ha'e seen or read of, and their antiquity has proved their
durability. This road has, for its protection against the in
vasions of foreign foes, and especially the buccaneers of
former times, castles erected on the most commanding emi
nences and passes, such as La Puente del Ray, Perote, &c.
The diligencia arrived at La Puente del Ray, now called
the Peoples' Bridge, in time for breakfast, and at that place I
took my meal, for the first time in a country public house of
entertainment in Mexico, and more miserable food I never
partook of. Nine persons sat down in low chairs to a high
and ponderous old table, on a dirt floor, which had spread on
it an earthen bowl of half-done black beans, called Frijoles,
and a like shaped bowl containing stewed chicken, similarly
cooked. To complete the repast, we' had sweet bread tp
chime with the other delicious varieties.
Although for an Englishman half-raw beef is requisite, I
never yet found the human being who could eat half-done
fowl. The o}d Belgian Doctor, who constituted one of our

TRAVELS JN MEXICO. 41
party, declared that he had been so badly fed in some parts of
Mexico upon half-cooked chickens, that he had, in self defence,
been obliged to live on little monkeys.
Although the scenery of La Puente del Ray was truly
romantic and sublime, by our being positioned in a deep gorge
between two mountains, or high hills, which abruptly rose
upon both hands, the green moss-covered rocks of whose
precipitous sides hung in festoons of wild vines and flowers,
in all the luxuriance of a tropical climate, the summit of the
one being crowned by a frowning old deserted castle, and both
having at the same time a thickly matted, shaggy mane of
musquite and other forest growths, upon their heights, while
a rapid crystal stream washed the feet of each, making its
exit from under the spanned arches of La Puente del Ray ;
yet with an unsatisfied appetite, to my view, it possessed a
dark and loathsome appearance.
Near to the Cascasa Diligencia, the illustrious Santa Anna
was finishing a new building, which would cost, as I was in
formed, fifty thousand dollars. It might have been in conse
quence of the bad fare I had received at the place, but \ was
of the opinion, that I would not have consented to receive the
property from him as a donation, and I xejoiced when the
diligencia was ready to depart from it.
My first day's ride into the interior of Mexico, was not only
interesting, but a new scene of existence to me. For as the
morning's sun had cast his illuminating rays over the wild
native scenery through which I was travelling, and I couid at
times behold, both far and near, a view spread out before me,
differing from any thing before seen, which my fondest antici
pations had imagined of its singular beauty. I had in fact
ascended to the second eminence, or table land, called the
tierra tem.plada, or temperate region.
Although the landscape, to my view, had changed by being
removed from the gay sultry region of many blossoming
flowers that borders upon the sea ; the temperate zone
abounded in a more stately growth of forest, for with the
varieties of the musquite, and the liquid amber tree, I now
beheld the tall and majestic cypress ; and as the diligencia
would now and then wind down some craggy steep, into a
deep glen, where my ears would be stunned by the wild
screams of the parrots, arid all the other beautifully plumed
feathered tribes ; it was only necessary to ascend the opposite
height, to be transported again into the tierra templada, there
to perceive the forest, a perfect medley, from its being indis
criminately mixed, and the whole woods so thickly matted
and entwined, being apparently impervious -to the footsteps

42 TRAVELS IN MEXICO;
of animals, with a scrubby, bushy growth of deepest green
colour, which unconsciously makes the eye delight to dwell
upon it.
It should not now be neglected to remark, that much to my
enjoyment I discovered the Orizava was not a portion of the
range of mountains as before described, which holds the Gulf
of Mexico to its place, as it appeared to be when first seen by
me from the sea. But on the contrary, its towering height,
as seen above all other eminences, deceived me by its distance,
and I discovered that the Orizava was far interior, and that
I should have the privilege of looking up to it at any mo
ment, while travelling the burning plains beneath ; and whilst
the sun was shining on me with intense heat, I could find
some relief from my sufferings by simply casting my eyes up
to the region of perpetual winter, and as I looked upon the
height, it seemed to be a crystal hemisphere, against which
the rays of light appeared to delight in spangled splendour, to
sport time away ; while at the same moment, the many
coloured clouds beneath appeared to struggle and roll in
solemn grandeur, to acquire their native supremacy, and thus
crown the monarch of mountains.
As I progressed on my way, it was plainly perceptible that
the whole region of country was volcanic, and that the hills
and mountains did not the more exhibit this appearance than
the vales and plains ; for not a rock, at any time, was to be
seen, which did not show that its formation was by fire. All
visible, was lava, and indeed, I travelled over a valley, every
foot of which was covered with it, having been shot up in
spherical forms, and yet there was no mountain near, of con
ical formation, from whence the lava could have been heaved
into the valley by volcanic eruption.
My first day's journey from the city of Vera Cruz was to
Jalapa, a distance of about ninety miles, over a road disagree
able to travel on, in consequence of the continued journey,
and the thundering noise of the heavy diligencia on the pave
ment. And be it remembered, by way of giving an idea of
the wealth of the Dictator of the Republic of Mexico, that all
of the lands over which I had that day travelled, as I was in
formed, were exclusively the property of Santa Anna.
Jalapa is said to be the most beautiful and agreeable town
in Mexico, and a place of retreat from the vomito, by the in
habitants of the tierra caliente. Perpetual spring has her
reign there, and vegetation, therefore, is ever verdant and
blooming. It is from that town that the medicine, to be
found at the apothecaries, has derived its name. I was told
that, for a long period after the conquest, this vegetable me-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO.

ti

dicine was brought into market by the Indians, from the moun
tains, where the snakes were so abundant and dangerous, that
the white man never had the temerity to adventure for it.
The town is built upon the steep declivity of a hill. In the
Plaza, as it is called, or the market square, I, for the first time,
beheld the Mexicans retailing their fruits, vegetables, bread-
stuffs, and meats to the citizens, and a filthy operation it was.
Their marketing was heaped upon mats, or cotton cloths
spread upon the pavement of the place, which was resorted
to by both man and beast. It was here I left the old Belgian
doctor, again to take his chances for little monkeys or half-
cooked chicken, not though, without having first learned from
him many interesting things of the people amongst whom I
had to travel.
That which I chiefly delighted in, while at Jalapa, was the
pleasing sight of the ladies, whose beauty seemed to partake
of the eternal blossoming of their native region ; for smiling
loveliness appeared to have partially delighted to dwell upon
their symmetrically angelic countenances, and while they
could often be seen peering from behind the grated windows
adorned with flowers, — yet no blossom was half so lovely, as
the sweet rose that bloomed under the soft delicate brunette
hue of their cheeks.
At 1 0 o'clock, on the following morning after my arrival at
Jalapa, I again took my departure in the diligencia, that day,
to commence my ascent to the plain of Perote. I was then
about to leave a region of perpetual humidity, and eternally
green verdure ; for in the economy of nature, an all beneficent
Providence has ordered, that, as the rains do not descend in
that country for nine months in the year, the earth may be
irrigated by humid vapours taken up from the sea, and de
scending on the lands, appearing like clouds, as they slowly
and gently skimmed over, kissing as it were, with liquid lips,
the fields and spontaneous growth; and by which means the
germing vegetation, absorbing the vapours, receives a suffi
cient nourishment to mature perfection.
I had frequently observed, as 1 journeyed forward, houses
built upon the road-side of reeds and sticks, set up edgeways,
and- thatched with rank grass or palm leaves — huts that in
deed must have been very airy ; for between every reed and
stick, interstices had been left for the free circulation of the
atmosphere through the habitation.
I observed also, at greater distances from the road, a num
ber of mounds thrown up as it were to the height of from ten
to twenty feet, of conical form. These hillocks seemed to
have been irregularly, and without design, cast up like so

H TRAyELO IN MEXICO,
jnany ant-hills, apd I at first imagipe^ them to be Indian
mcrands or sepulchres, for the slain of some battle- field, or nujw
numepts of the aborigines pf the country. } was surprised tq
find that these were likewise dwelling-places, and filled with
inhabitants J being dirt-houses, which had been thrown up to
prevent the intolerable heat of the sup from penetrating through
them. Jf I should be asked who or what are the population t<j»
be met yvith upon the highways, I would answer that, to me,
they seemed to be but the original Totonacs and Compoalbans,
who were in possession pf that part of the country when
Cortes discovered it ; for the complexion and outward appearr
ance of the larger number of people that I met with, were of
the tawny and Indian caste, and, from their meek and spiritr-
Jess appearance, a stranger would little suppose that murder
and rapine were the predominant traits of their character;
and if any should be incredulous of the fact, it will only be
necessary for them opce to travel the thoroughfare from the
city of Mexico to Vera Cruz, to behold upon either hand the
sad and many emblems of the crucifix over fallen travellers.
And I do verily believe that there is not a mile of that melanr
choly road, that has not flowed with the blood of plundered
and murdered individuals.
After ascending a hill which, in fact, grew into a mountain
about nine miles from Jalapa, to the left hand, was a vault,
which had an old Spaniard deposited in it, in a standing posi
tion, looking through a window down upon the road, apd I
had no doubt but lljiat as the old fellow had been the terror of
the highway whep living, and the feeling predominapt in
death caused him thus to dispose of his mortal remains, that
his ghastly aspect might, in grim death, frighten travellers.—
This, perhaps, was the same spirit that induced a celebrated
horse-racer of my own State, who, when, dying, directed that
his body should be buried upright, under the judges' stand of
a race-track, with his face towards the coming-out place.
But as I was going also to remark — to the right hand I be
held a scene of the most picturesque sublimity of any other
that had come under my view ; and the reader must not con
sider my raptures extravagant, in my admiration of the face
of nature, ip this country, for pen cannot describe the excess
of romantic beauty it affords, when seen in a volcanic region,
under a tropical sun, and as he approaches each object in regu
lar succession, every thing in its turn will appear the most
grand— the most wonderful.
Whilst ascendipg the road which lay on the side of a moun
tain, on turning my attention to the right hapd, I looked ovpr

tAIyels *n Mfttfeb'. 4&
afi extensive valley", spotted With farms, iiA having a village
iri its' centre, sending up high above its' Walls its Piahy spires,
pointing to the heiiverts. As I raised my eyes above the plain,
a lofty cataract met my view, apparently gushing in One large
and solid body of water about midway from the far distant
Opposite mountain ; and near to the fall of wafer was another
village just above it, situated on a slip of table land, Stretch
ing along the side of the high mountain. To realize the
grandeur of the view, would oblige any one to see it for him
self. I Solicit the reader to picture to his mind two lovely
villages, in sight at the same tlrne — one in the plain beneath
him, the other sitting like the Queen of cities on the slope of
a towering height ; while the silvery tide of a pure, foaming;
and bounding stream waters the valley beneath. At the same
time; the tolling of the bells from the many cupolas of the
villa in the valley, came sweetly echoed back by those of the
village on the mountain in the distance, in tones just heard — •
like the scarcely audible melodious strains of the iEoliari harp,
to charm the weary to Sleep, and the sleeping to dreams' of
Elysiuirt, and the traveller from the bosom of his family and
home. My journey to the Pueblo, a village and castle of Perpte,
was unaccompanied by an incident worthy of remark, since
pn that day I was fortunate enough to escape meeting with
the Volontier Oard, a band of ladroneiS, who had given thehi-
selves that distinguished appellation. Yet the view Of the
country, Whenever I chose to look abroad for recreation or
information^ was always instructive and full of interest. I
waS then about to enter the tierra fria, or the cold region, the
great natural elevation that Would place me on the summit of
the Andes, and in the midst of the Cordilleras, as they spread
out over the table lands of Mexico, as the Andes pass the isth
mus of Darien. The general elevation Of the table land of Mexico
fs estimated at about six thousand feet above the level of the
sea, but gradually declines towards the northern departments.
The plain of Perote is said tO have been, m the time df the
Aztecs, covered with a forest of heavy growth ; but to my
vieW, it possessed not a single tree, or spontaneous shrub.—
Ali appeared to be a cold, dry, barren Waste, in the midst of
which, at an elevation of between seven and eight thousand
feet above the level of the sea, sat the dark and dreary-look
ing castle Of PerOte ; whilst, at the Same time, at a consider
able distance1, although it appears to be neat at hand, lies the
COrfre de Perote, With a large square rock of box-forin crown
ing its Summit, from which the mountain fakes its name, The
rock, to me, looked as if it had been placed there to Stop a

i<i TRAVELS IN MEXICO,
hole beheath; which, perhaps, if the Mexicans were to re
move, as a wag once observed, they could have a flame of fire
spouting upwards, sufficient to afford candie-light for every
family in the whole country.
Corfre de Perote is said to be at an elevation of about
twelve thousand feet above the sea, and here,, although it is
not sufficiently cold to induce the natives to have chimneys to
their houses, or fires otherwise, the skin of either man or
beast is ever suffused with moisture, or a genial glow of
warmth — the whole surface having a perpetually dry and most
indescribably uncomfortable sensation, which produces a de
spondency and loathsomeness of feeling, more sensibly felt at
Perote than in any other district of Mexico.
I did not reach the Puebla of Perote until after seven o'clock,
p. m., notwithstanding my anxious solicitude to arrive there
sooner. I felt desirous of seeing the Texians who were con
fined in the fortress, and more especially Mr. Joseph E. Cruse,
a young gentleman who had been raised to the mercantile bu
siness at Lynchburg, Va., my own home . But the diligencia
arrived too late for the castle to be visited. I had much sym
pathy for Mr. C, for he was one of the San Antonio prisoners
who was not taken in arms, and had visited Texas to recover
his health ; and hard was his fate, to have, shortly after my
visit, paid the debt of nature in so cheerless a place as Perote.
Grievous must it have been to his aged parent thus to part
with a son, in the sunshine of youth.
At Perote my fare was but little better than the breakfast I
sat down to on the first day of my travel, and I hailed with
delight the summons at midnight for the departure of the dili
gencia. As day dawned, the objects that met my view were
the Ranchos, the miserable open huts inhabited by Indians, the
indolent and the poor ; and heaven knows how they obtain a
living — certainly I do not. As I journeyed onward, it was
not without beholding the extended mode of cultivating and
grazing the land ; and first the Hacienda, a farm of vast ex
tent, covered with green verdure, having multitudes of stock
feeding upon it, and attended by herdsmen and shepherds,
which would forcibly recall to the mind of any individual the
days of the Latins so poetically described by Virgil in his
Georgics. Generally, of near proximity to the hacienda, would be a
Pueblo, built of sun-burnt bricks, called a dobis, and having
also its costly church of lofty towers. In consequence of the
indisposition of one of the passengers at a Pueblo, we stopped
at it ; and I took occasion, for the first time, of entering a
church in Mexico, and indeed the first time that I had ever

TRAVELS IN MEXICO; 47
beheld the interior of a completely furnished Roman Catholic
house of worship. The first object which met my view was a
badly-clad lady, who no doubt needed the consolation of reli
gion, for the expression of her countenance was the very pic
ture of sorrow. She was surrounded by candles, although
the high sun never burned with more brilliancy, and streamed
its illuminating rays down through the great dome of the edi
fice ; she was kneeling before a richly-gilt, or golden altar, on
which was a full-length likeness, in a highly-ornamented
frame, of her saint. My attention was soon diverted from her
devout and solemn aspect, by hearing the heart-felt supplica
tions of a beautiful little girl, who was bowed before, to me,
an unknown saint. My eyes also caught the view of a wax
figure, dressed in black, with a flowing robe. That statue, I
remarked to a passenger, of the Roman Catholic faith, was a
good likeness of Thomas Jefferson, but he informed me that it
was intended for Joseph, the husband of Mary. I replied to
my good-natured friend, that I did not before know that black
silk shorts and knee-buckles were worn in Joseph's time. — ¦
Being again summoned to the diligencia, my thoughts for some
time dwelt on the subject of religion.
As I before remarked, my attention had been directed to the
Haciendas as I passed them. In one or more of the deeper
valleys of Perote, I saw that the improved American ploughs
were used for tillage ; and a wealthy Mexican, a noble bene
factor of his people, had at one time made a large importation
of these ploughs, designing to introduce them generally among
the farmers of his country. But one of the glorious revolu
tions of Mexico was coeval with the munificence of the good
citizen, and his ploughs shared a scattered fate, in the midst of
resounding arms and the havocs of war. Thus the people lost
in their destruction u more beneficial revolution in their agri
cultural system, than ever the sword has wrought for them in
obtaining their independence, or in raising men to high sta
tions. The plough universally in use in Mexico, is the instru
ment handed by the Romans to their posterity. The old
Spaniards, and their descendants, prejudiced the minds of these
people against the successful operation of that spirit called
improvement ; and in this respect the Yankee nation, by a
liberal-mindedness in " trying all things, and holding fast to
that which is good," have advanced about two thousand years
ahead of their neighbours, not only in agriculture, but m all
tlie arts and sciences practised in the civilized world.
On the plain of Pueblo are said to be several hot springs,
one of which 1 passed. It suddenly gushed from under the
¦earth by the side of the road, in a bold stream, about three or

43 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
four feet wideband, as it rapidly glided away, I could but be
reminded, in observing the vapour which ascended from it, of
the many beneficial results of steam-power. However, the
Mexicans were not suffering the blessings of hot water to pass
off unappreciated, and unapplied to some purpose, for I per
ceived a party of them near the fountain-head of the spring,
making a pond for their horses to bathe in.
During the day's ride I arrived in view of what is said
to be two perpetually snow-capped peaks, besides that of
the Orizava, between which my journey would lay, on my road
to the city of Mexico. The Popocatepetl, being interpreted
from the Indian, means " the hill that smokes." It is esti
mated to be two thousand feet higher than Mont Blanc, in
Europe. Its top is of conio form, and notwithstanding its
immense height, from an inclination of the head towards the
north, I could, as I passed, plainly perceive the funnelled cavity
that opened from its summit. To my view this mountain was
less mantled with that pure element, snow, than the Orizava.
From its appellation, the presumption would be, that smoke
would be perpetually seen issuing from this volcano ; but no
emissions of flaring sparks, ashes, or smoke was beheld by
me ; all was still and tranquil ; yet the evidences of its ter
rible combustion in former times, were discoverable from
about one half of its height being covered with lava, present
ing a vast pile of dark matter, without having in a single in
stance a particle of vegetation to relieve the eye ; still I was
informed that a distant and dead sound was heard by those
who approached the mountain. Mr. Prescott, in speaking of
this volcanic mountain, beautifully remarks — " Soaring towards
the skies, with its silver sheet of everlasting snow, it was
seen far and wide over the broad plains of Mexico and Pueblo
— the first object which the morning's sun greeted in his rising
—the last where his evening rays were seen to linger, shed
ding a glorious effulgence over its head, that contrasted strik
ingly with the ruinous waste of sand and lava immediately
below, and the deep fringe of funeral piles that surrounded its
base." Under the heat of a tropical sun, and the appearances which
all creation in Mexico presents, of devouring fire, evidently
shew that the time has been when Nature, in her strong con
vulsions, has exhibited the resplendent scene of a world on
fire, and when the funeral pile in its struggling throes was be
ing extinguished, man, in the blindness of his reason and
superstition, snatched a torch, and, in feeble imitation, at
tempted to perpetuate the eternal embers, by hanging it on
the top of the high pyramid of Cholula, erected on the plain

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 49
of Pueblo, in commemoration of an imaginary visit made to
that country by their god Quetzalcoatl.
Diego Ordaz, at the head of nine Spaniards, is said to have
the glory of being the first person who ever attempted to as
cend the Popocatepetl. Its summit, however, since the days
of the renowned Diego Ordaz, has been gained by others, and
I was told of one individual who did not, for two years, reco
ver from the sufferings he had to encounter in the enterprise :
for, besides bleeding at the ears, and eyes, and nose, his lungs
suffered much from the difficulty he experienced of respiration,
which, for the space of time above mentioned, produced an
oppression in the breast.
While my meditations 'were occupied beholding the stupen
dous spectacle of the Popocatepetl, I had to turn my eyes in
another direction, to look upon the Iztaccihuatl, which the
Indians called the " White Woman." This mountain, clad in
its white garment, and made brilliant and spangled by large
flakes of ice, bleached by the cold blasts of centuries, was also
denominated by the aborigines, the Wife of its taller and more
fiery neighbour. The elevation of Iztaccihuatl I have never
seen noticed, nor could I ascertain from my inquiries that it
had ever been taken.
Tho diligencia arrived, on tho evening of the 26th inst., at
the city (though contrary to the meaning of the name) of
Pueblo. This place has also the distinguished appellation of
Puebla de los Anglos, " the town of the angels," acquiring
this heavenly cognomen from the belief of the natives, which
no doubt was the working of an ingenious and wily priest
craft, to wit, the angels of heaven condescended to quit the
throne of God, and descended to the town of Pueblo, there to
work in vile stone and mortar, in the erection of the truly
large and costly cathedral of that place. It is certainly a
great misfortune, resulting in the over-anxiousness or weak-
mindedness of the clergy of any country, to thus impose upon
tlie superstitious credulity of an ignorant people. As for my
self, I had just as soon believe in the fabled legends of the
Aztecs' sanguinary war god, as in the absurdities believed by
the Mexicans of the town of Ihe angels. I say that it is to be
regretted that a religion, originally pure, should have been so
wickedly and falsely perverted by those professing to be the
heralds of Christ, as to impose on a willing people. The im
possibilities of truth, are but in the disgust of the minds of the
intelligent, to throw doubt and disbelief upon the whole fabri
cated institution, which results in atheism, or else, in after
times, in the progress of man's enlightenment, to raise up ene-
c

50 Travels in mexicO.
mies to the church, who will uproot and overthrow the Whole
system, and on its ruined foundation erect a plan of pristine
pureness, upon the truth as it is. I do not think it my duty
slurringly to garble the truth, but to speak it entire, in what
ever I may have been impressed, of men and things, religion
and politics.
I arrived in Pueblo in time to make a hasty visit to the
Cathedral de los Anglos. It is erected of dressed stone, and
its dimensions are large. Its interior is approached by a short
flight of steps, covering the whole exteot of the basement of
the building, which gives to the whole an admirable propor
tion of height, for its length and breadth. As the visiter enters,
he is overwhelmed by the number of saints and angels that
strike his view. Before the altar rise two columns to the
ceiling, said to be of solid silver ; but as the dusk of evening
had set in, I was prevented from making a more enlarged ex
amination, for the doors were to be fastened, to the exclusion
of spectators and worshippers,
Pueblo de los Anglos is said to contain above one hundred
thousand inhabitants. The diligencia took its departure from
that celebrated town between two and three o'clock, the fol-
owing morning.
Having stopped at day break at a small town, or Pueblo,
for a change of animals, myself and fellow travellers ran into
a Meson, or Mexican tavern, where we obtained a cup of cho
colate, which had been boiled and frothed by the hands of a
beautiful Mexican girl ; which being consumed, Brother Jona
than, (for such was the appellation given to the Pennsylvania
stage driver, by all foreigners who travelled the road,) was
to take us that day to the end of our journey. We had not
proceeded far before we came in broad view of the dead man
and his wife's mountain, on our right hand, which exhibited
the most singular phenomena of two human beings, in perfect
profile likeness, on its summit, in extended postures, remind
ing me of my boyish days, when, with my compeers, we
would leave our compressed figures upon banks of snow.
In passing the ranges of the Popocatepetl and the Iztac
cihuatl, I was pleased to see that the mountain was covered
with a grove of timber of good size, for I there saw oaks and
pines of the same dimensions that I had beheld in old Vir
ginia; the colder regions being better adapted to the growing
of forest trees than the warmer climates. And it should ever
be remembered by the reader that, whatever else the traveller
may behold, he is nevertheless, never out of sight of the
crosses of melancholy bearing, being monuments erected over
the bones of murdered human beings, and thus consecrated.

Travels in Mexico. SI
My progress over this mountain, although cold, was inter
esting, from the many crowds of Arrieros, with their cargoes
on packed mules, a large party of whom were loaded with
the specie of the second indemnity from the Mexican to the
United States government. As the climax of the mountain
had now been gained, and we had turned on the descent, the
scene was also changed, for the far-famed valley of Mexico
was then, like a map, spread out before our view; and indeed
it was a lovely and magnificent sight to behold, although the
sublimity of the scene did not realize the expectations of my
excited imagination, from the rapturous descriptions I had re
ceived of it from other travellers.
The day was favourable — for the clear, blue vault of heaven
was without a dark spot to dim the exceeding and peculiar
serenity of the skies of that elevated and rarified region, the
atmosphere of which was so light and thin, aided by the bril
liant gleaming of the sun, that the eye could overcome space,
and comprehend distant objects, with a beauty surprising to
one raised in a more dense and a lower climate. Hence it is,
I have no doubt, that that plain has borrowed half its charms.
Yet to the minds of the conquerors to whom America was
a new world, and when the valley of Mexico was in a state
of nature, not as now, mainly presenting a parched and barren
waste, but under the dominion and care of the Aztecs, the
forest of ages towering high in the air, and casting up its um
brageous branches, relieved and freshened a scene the loveli
ness of which perhaps might have been unrivalled ; for nature,
like the beauty of a woman, is more adhiirable when beheld
in its native simplicity ; and it can easily therefore be ac
counted for, why the early Spaniards looked upon the valley
of Tenochtitlan, so called by the Indians, as the promised
land — the Elysium upon earth.
I here quote the scientific outlines of the geography of the
Mexican Valley, by Mr. Prescott, as they could not have
come under the immediate knowledge of a traveller. " Mid
way across the continent, somewhat nearer the Pacific than
the Atlantic ocean, at an elevation of nearly seven thousand
five hundred feet, is the celebrated valley of Mexico. It is of
an oval form, about sixty-seven leagues in circumference, and
i.s encompassed by a towering rampart of porphyritic rocks,
which nature seems to have provided, though ineffectually, to
protect it from invasion." He also remarks that "five lakes
are spread over the valley, occupying one-tenth of its surface."
Thus, as it were, at one view, bursts upon the astonished tra
veller, village, city, lakes, plains, and mountains, together
with a view of the culture, and the different kinds of crops,

52 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
as husbanded by the Mexicans, to interest the beholder, as he
journeys along.
I could only admire the extensive fields spread out before
me, for the valley of Mexico is justly renowned for its fertility ;
all the lands are said to be capable of cultivation by irrigation,
from the abundance of water afforded from streams and lakes.
Thus, whilst I might, upon the right hand, be pained to see
the sterilehess of a tract of country, made so, perhaps, by the
neglect of its opulent owner, and appropriated as a common
for grazing ; on the left I would be greeted by the pleasing
prospect of miles in extent, and as far as the eye could reach,
of lands cultivated alone in maize, or Indian corn. And while
now I would arrive at verdant nooks, with acres of land cul
tivated in Chili, or Indian pepper, of which the inhabitants
make considerable use — and I was informed that a single in
dividual, from one crop of chili alone, realized the immense
sum of fifty thousand dollars — and then I would come upon
the green and flowery fields, cultivated to feed the cochineal
insect. But what the more attracted my attention was the
deep green, wide-spreading aloe, called by the Mexicans
Maguey. This plant has, in its perfection, a stem shooting up
to ten or fifteen feet in height, with an appearance of clustered
flowers at its top when ripe — the stem, or stalk of a liquid
pithy substance, is consumed in a raw state by the natives.
But such being the variety of the xises to which this spon
taneous plant is appropriated by the Mexicans, I shall speak
of its multifarious properties and consumption, when my
longer travels and residence in the country will better enable
me to describe them.
The view of the valley of Mexico is certainly beautiful and
grand, and but for the painful absence of timber, and the vast
sterility of much of its territory, might, perhaps, be the most
magnificent sight any where to behold upon the face of the
globe. There is no country in the world, from the best infor
mation I could obtain, where individual citizens hold as large
bodies of land as in Mexico, and it is estimated that, from
seven millions of inhabitants, in all probability, less than live
hundred thousand are the owners of all the terra firma of that
rich country.
As I progressed, I was soon brought in bold view, by my
close contact, with the lake region. One of these lakes near
the city of Mexico, I was informed, was thirty miles in length,
and looked to be the bay or port of the great city. Although
the lake is said to be of that considerable extent, yet, as my
eyes, in that atmosphere, were cast over its transparent blue
waters, and the dark reflections of the mountains were thrown

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 63
upon it, the space did not seem to me to be one-half, or more
than one-third the distance. This lake by name is Tezcuco —
has an abundance of fish, and during the most of the year is
inhabited by large flocks of water-fowls — and it was on that
lake that Mr. Wilcox, the American consul, was in the habit
of amusing himself by firing small shot from a cannon among
the ducks.
There is on the border of the lake, Agua calienta, or hot
springs, the waters of which are used for bathing purposes.
During the nine months of the dry season, when the lakes re
cede from their high water marks, all the shores that have
been covered by water, as was the case when seen by me, had
a thick incrustation, or deposit of carbonate of soda, which is
scraped up by the Indians, and sold by them for the purpose
of making soap — as the inhabitants are compelled to use that
article ; for not a sufficiency of wood is burned in Mexico to
produce a supply of ashes for the manufacture of soap.
All of the water, likewise the soil of Mexico, is strongly
impregnated with carbonate of soda, as I had continual op
portunities of witnessing. The lake water exhibited the phe
nomenon in a more perceptible manner than the flowing
streams, and some of them were stronger than others, by the
difference of the quantity of their deposits. I once rode on
the margin of a small lake, where the hoofs of my animal as
it passed pver the deposit of carbonate of soda, made sounds
resembling that of snow when trod upon. It might be in
quired — from whence does the water of the lakes obtain the
mineral ? for but few of them have streams from the moun
tains running into them, being but stagnant pools of rain wa
ter. The reply is obvious — the water extracts its soda con
stituent from the earth, which seems to have an inexhaustible
amount of that most ostensible component of its parts. This
one thing, however, I was unwillingly made satisfied of — the
water of Mexico has an active medical effect, as all foreigners
who go to that country can testify, from the fact of its dele
terious effects having carried many to the tomb, by conferring
a chronic diarrhoea on those who partake freely of its use.
The water of the city of Mexico is said to be more pernicious
to the health of a stranger than any other in all the Republic.
The entire use of rain water, I was informed, proved always
to be a specific remedy for the afflicted.
But what, as much as any thing else, attracted my atten
tion, was a mound which had been thrown up by a volcanic
eruption, immediately on the margin of the lake. This
mound of lava seemed to me to have been about two hundred
feet in diameter at its base, and one hundred in height. Its

H TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
form was precisely like that of a funnel, with its greater di
ameter resting on the surface, while at the same time there
was a flue or vent through which the volcanic fire exhausted
itself. As the diligencia entered on the great causeway which se
parates lake Chalco from Xochicalo, a passenger, familiar
with the country and its history, informed me that this bridge
was not only made by the Aztecs, but was the same identical
track which the Cortes and his followers passed on the 8th
November, 1519, the day on which they first set foot in the
city of Mexico.
As I advanced over the diversified and beautiful picturesque
environs of the Capital, I could behold before me a large and
compact city, which had for its first and most striking fea
tures, white walls and lofty steeples ; and, I dare say, for the
number, the magnitude and height, the religious buildings of
the present day are not unlike what they were in the day
when the conqueror first beheld them, the towering temples
of the gods of Anahuac. Thus, on the evening of the 26th of
November, unarmed by ladrones, or any other casualty, in a
fatigued condition, and covered with dust, I arrived in the
city of Mexico — too late, however, to behold any of the beau
ties of the place I had entered.
My first care, after the custom-houso officers had examined
my baggage — for in Mexico there are revenue officers in every
town in the interior — was to take up my lodgings in the Gran
Sociadad, a. French Hotel in Holy Ghost street.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 55

CHAPTER V.

The overthrow of Cortes. City of Mexico. Receding of the lake.
View of Holy Ghost street* A large church. A Mexican lady.
General Thompson's residence. An elegant part of the town.
The streets of Mexico. Earthquakes. Style of Architecture.
The city of Mexico. The proportion of a Spanish house. The
population of the city of Mexico. Gen. Thompson's hospitality.
Baron La Rook. The Plaza. The Palace. The Cathedral. Re
markable Carriages. Basalt Stone. Interior of tho Cathedral.
Mister Officer an American Artist. Virgin o f Remedios, Tomb
of Iturbide. Rarified air. The Convent of San Francisco. The
Government Palace, Mint, &c. A general officer at the reception
door. Capt. Cortes, of the Grenadiers. National Monument.
Iturbido's Palace. Santa Anna Theatre. Numerous beggars.
Journeymen Beggars. Feats of strength. Dress of the Lazarinos.
After the overthrow of Cortes, upon that memorable occa
sion of tbe noche triste, the melancholy night when it is said
that he lost more than four hundred of his followers, and all of
his artillery, which was overturned from the causeways into
the lakes nnd dykes — and having made his retreat from the
city, but to rally and reinforce his army, which being done,
he speedily returned, to complete a conquest which had hardly
commenced, and having with a force much more numerous and
better provided, retraced his steps to Tacaba, he made that
place his head- quarters, The future and renowned Conqueror
havidg ascended a high temple of Tacaba, was observed rest
ing his cheek upon his elbow, in a most pensive and melan
choly mood, and while thus absorbed in the deep meditations
of the moment, during which a tear had trickled down his
cheek, an officer who had observed him, ventured in his sym
pathy to touch the shoulder of his general, and in cheering
tones bade his commander to hope for victory and for con
quest. The mind of Cortes at the time, like that of his Master
when overlooking Jerusalem, whose standard of the Cross he
chiefly delighted to plant in the pathway of his victories, was
filled with love and admiration for the city of Mexico, which
caused him to exclaim that " it was the most beautiful thing
on earth," and in the deep sorrow of his heart he lamented
that soon, by his hand, the place that teemed with countless
multitudes of inhabitants, must perish by famine and the
sword ; and that the towers, the temples, and the palaces, that

66 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
glittered so resplendantly in the sun, must soon be demolished
and buried beneath the floods of the canals and lakes — for they
¦would not give up their idols, and peaceably surrender to the
standard of Castile. And thus, like the Son of Jehovah, he
would have exclaimed, "Oh Jerusalem I Jerusalem, bow
often would J have gathered thee as the hen doth her
brood, upder her wings, bnt ye would not." To the mind of
Cortes, with, as it were, the most beautiful fancy sketch of
nature's pencil thrown wide to his view, with a fair city in
the midst, it might have at that day seemed to be the most
lovely sight on earth; and I have no doubt that the city of
Mexico, as it then appeared, was peculiarly adapted to exhibit
to the view and fancies of human beings, more loveliness, and
charms of art and nature blended, than the boasted appearance
of the city as it now is — for the simple reason that in the
Aztic city there was variety — while to the contrary, the
Spanish cannot be possessed of any.
The four great causeways of the Aztics, that stretched
through the lakes, like so many bridges over the seas, and in
tersecting the centre of the city ; the many high temples, and
lofty white towers, the imperial and the nobles' palaces, co
vering acres of land; the floating gardens; the groves; the
canals, filled with light canoes, rapidly passing and repassing ;
while the grand whole was crowded with minor and inferior
buildings ; nothing of all which are to be seen now — but upon
the demolished ruins and fallen rubbish of departed magnifi
cence, has been erected the modern, although the oldest city
on the American continent, by Spanish architects and Spanish
conquerors. The city is of square form, and although not upon an eleva
tion, is yet built upon a level dry plain, which has resulted,
first, from the fact, that the old city was used mainly in filling
up the canals ; and, lastly, that the great lake of Tezcuco has
receded between one and two miles from the walls of the city,
which cause is attributed to the more rapid evaporation of the
water from the lakes, since the plain of Mexico has been to
tally divested of its forests, so that it might the more resemble
the plains of Castile, and remind the Spaniard of his European
home. _ The streets of Mexico mn north and south, east and
west, intersecting one another, so that the squares are of an
exactness, and eijually of the same dimensions.
On the following morning, after my arrival in tho city of
Mexico, I rose from my bed refreshed, from having had a good
night's sleep, notwithstanding the eternal ringing of bells; and
no one can believe that the music of those ding-dong instru
ments was the lullaby that soothed me into the arms of Som-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 6?
nus; but my confinement and fatigue in the diligencia, the
last four days and nights, had welcomed the blessings of sleep
to my heavy eyelids. Having thus enjoyed one continued and
uninterrupted night's repose, I left my couch, animated with
the prospect of beholding the finest city in the world, as 1 al
ways had heard the city of Mexico to be ; and so glowingly
had the descriptions of the metropolis been given by others,
that I almost hesitate to give my own respecting it ; — how
ever, I shall attempt, in ray own way, to give some detail of
this proud and famed place.
So impatient had I become of seeing what was to be seen,
and knowing whatever was to be learned, that I hac(. not more
than finished dressing, when I threw open my window, and
thrust out my head, to catch an astonishing glimpse, or else I
should not have had an appetite for breakfast; and in fact 1
could not, at the moment, but be reminded of the eagerness of
animated boyhood, whose eagerness has been roused to such a
tip-toe height, when about to visit a show, t^at he cannot
prevent himself from taking a peep under the canvass before
entering the door-way.
And what did I behold ? — I first cast my eyes through a
range of buildings, far to the south ; and the street seemed
there to have been met by a high and grand barrier of moun
tains, the view of which was heightened, inconceivably, by
the distant view of the long avenue through which it was
seen. A3 the golden beams of the morning sun were shed
over it, it seemed to gleam with refulgence in its airy eleva
tion ; I then commenced slowly to retrace niy View: and, as
my eyes wandered from side to side, and from house to house,
the street seemed to be filled with a motley crowd of gentle
men, and priests muffled in their cloaks and gowns ; ladies,
with their rebosccs, a shawl drawn closely over their heads
and faces, and crossed on their breasts, all slowly and solemnly
walking along, as if they were going to or returning from a
funeral ; aud I really should have been depressed by serious
thoughts, if the scene had not been interrupted, here and
there, by little mouse-coloured donkeys, loaded with charcoal,
and driven by Indians, harshly screaming aloud, "Caobona!
Caobona!" — and there was the water-carrier, loaded down
with the weight of his earthen vessels, swung from his head,
hanging before his breast and on his back; and, dearly, thought
I, did he earn his living. While (he greater number of the
people, the paupers, standing in groups, or seated on the way
side, had drawn my ga/.c, my attention was suddenly startled
by the clang of trumpets aud the beating of drums, sounding
c 5

.55 TRAVELS IN MEXICO}
a retreat from some outpost, where they had been doing duty
all the previous night, and were now returning to head
quarters. The houses were all closely built together, without
a single vacant lot, or intervening space between them ; — all
presented one massive front of ponderous construction, of
about three stories in height — -never higher — but a story in
Mexico is twenty-five, or, at least twenty feet, but never less
than fifteen.
There was, on a moderate calculation, a large, high church,
whose cupolas were well and numerously supplied with dif
ferent sized noisy bells, for about every other square. The
roofs of the different houses were all terraced, which contri
buted to add considerably to the flat, weighty appearance of
the whole buildings ; and as my eyes, like the fools spoken of,
somewhere, had been wandering to the end of the world, to
the south, they had no sooner returned home than, truant like,
they forthwith shot to tho north ; and, in like manner, as to
the south, they were arrested by precisely the same panoramic
view of mountain, churches, houses, donkeys, and people ;
and in so perfect an exactness, that the mountain seemed but
to have been the mirror by which the whole 'was reflected — •
and my faculty of seeing soon wandered back to me.
But I should not neglect to remark that, just before my
vision returned entirely home, obliquely to the opposite from
my window, they caught the glimpse of something attractive,
which, upon a steady and minute inspection, proved to be,
certainly, a beautiful Mexican lady ; her dark hair; her light
brunette complexion ; and, above all, — for the light of heaven
seemed to gather lustre from them — her soft and inexpressibly
melting black eyes were playing havoc with my susceptible
heart; and I do not know that the window would have con
tained me, if my Catholic friend had not warned me to leave
it, as the Holy Ghost was passing along the street. I was
thus reluctantly compelled to close the glass door, and go to
breakfast. My breakfast being over, my first care was to find General
Thompson's residence, and deliver to him my despatch from
Judge Upsher, Secretary of State, U. S., and my commission
for the usual exequator from the Mexican government ; that
having been soon accomplished, (for the residence of the
American minister was near at hand,) and, after having been
most kindly and politely received by General Thompson, by
whom I was invited to dine, I resolved to gratify the strong
impulse of my feelings ; that of beholding the city of Mexico
The hotel of the Gran Sociadad fronts on Holy Ghost street ;

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 59
and that street having been the first which I had seen, and on
which I had made my debut, and feeling desirous of viewing
one of the more beautiful streets of Mexico, I of course did not
return from the minister's residence to the high cognomened
Holy Ghost street; not supposing that that street could have
exhibited a specimen of the best improvement in the exalted
city of Mexico, I therefore, naturally enough, hastened to
search for a more elegant part of the town.
The broad and well paved streets of Mexico, being perfectly
straight, stretch out on a level plane ; the only relief to the
eye of the looker on being that, it matters not in whatever
street you may happen to be, turn whatsoever direction you
may, you will, through the long perspective, behold the moun
tains, which never failed to attract my attention from the
heavy masonary of the buildings. There are no scattered
houses here, but the entire squares are built up in one solid
block, being, as it were, but one vast edifice, and having no
back grounds ; for every foot of earth is covered with stone
and mortar ; and, as the walls are all united, it is said that
little detriment has ever been sustained there by earthquakes,
which are always more or less felt in the spring season, saving
the occasional cracking of walls, and the falling of some few
houses on the suburbs, built of sun-dried brick. The dimen
sions of the houses of the city of Mexico surpass those of Vera
Cruz and Puebla; yet the architecture is the same. I hardly
know what to denominate the style, unless it should be the
Arabic or Moorish, mixed with Indian. It is true, that some
of the churches seem to be of the Gothic. This one thing,
however, is certain ; — I cannot remember to have seen, in any
other city, or to have examined in books, similar species of
architecture. I have, therefore, been forced to conclude that
it is a style unique.
The city of Mexico, in its appearance, is more compact, and,
as a whole, in that respect, looks better than any other city
that I have before seen ; yet I must confess that I felt disap
pointed, from all that I had before heard, in not beholding a
more magnificent outside show ; for the coarsely stuccoed
walls of the houses, with but few exceptions, having windows
to their first story, looked to me as only being clumsy ramparts
for the garrisons contained behind them ; at the same time,
the door-ways, in the centre, from twelve to fifteen feet in
height, swung upon ponderous hinges, having many locks of
curious construction, appeared to be the huge gates of a for
tress. However, the Spaniard, from a spirit of distrust nnd
jealousy, has never delighted in making a parade of all his
Valuables, to please idle spectators or a giddy multitude. You

60 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
must enter within the sanctum sanctorum, to feast your eyes
on his silver, his gold, his jewels, and the lanquishing eyes of
his fair ones ; whilst, at the same time, his ostentation consists
in being wrapped in the ample folds of his broad cloth cloak,
which, in Mexico, is the receipt for a gentleman ; — a ride in
his coach to the Paceo, or the splendid show of the costly
trappings of the harness of his noble steed. It is within the
gate of his palace, that you have an opportunity of beholding
the extravagance of his expenditures. When you are fairly
within the court of his castle, and you have cast your eyes
upwards, you will then be struck with the view of the lofty
columns and broad-spanned arches, that stretch around and
support the corridors encompassing you on every hand. It is
then within you perceive he considers to be the elegant por
tion of his house ; and it is there that he lavishes all the in
genuity of his nature, in gilded gewgaws to please his fancy.
I must say, that it did not please my taste, for the heavy
architecture of the corridors, partaking of the outside appear
ance, oppressed the buoyancy of my spirits, if I could be said
to have any, while the carving and the ornaments that I saw
there, look too much, to me, like gaudy chains to please the
maniac. The population of the city of Mexico is estimated by some,
to be two hundred thousand; but it is impossible to take a
correct census (so it is said) of the city, or even of the coun
try, on account of the considerable number of lazarones who
inhabit the streets and nooks in the fields, having no homes.
They do their cooking, their sleeping, and, indeed, all the
functions of animal existence, in the streets. After I had be
come overpowered with fatigue, in my fruitless hunting for
the most interesting parts of Mexico, I returned, at the hour
of four o'clock, to the dwelling of General Thompson, cha
grined at not having found a city which had surpassed all
others before seen, or a street more attractive than that of the
Holy Ghost.
At General Thompson's I much enjoyed myself with his ele
gant hospitality. Tliere I had the pleasure of being intro
duced to some of the ministers at the court of Mexico. Baron
Le Roulk, minister plenipotentiary from Holland, I found to
be a most interesting and pleasant man. He made many in
terrogations of mo, as to the system of the United States
government, and more particularly of my own state of Vir
ginia. The baron often expressed his satisfaction with many
of the features of constitutional points which I cited to him ;
but would as often exclaim, " Have the people self- govern
ment sufficient to carry out the great doctrines ?" for he per-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 61
ceived that, with rriuch difficulty, and by many revolutions,
the Mexicans, professing to be republicans, Were living upder
the will of a dictator. In reply, I endeavoured to explain the
difference that existed between the two people, Ond finally
hoped the agreeable baron would have a residence at the city of
Washington, as minister from his country, where, from the
proximity of the metropolis of the Union to the capital of my
own state, he would then have an opportunity of verifying all
that I had related.
It was not until after dark that I left General Thompson,
and therefore could not, until the following morning, make
further investigations. My inquisitive curiosity had by no
means abated, for, added to my disappointment, my hope Of
yet being gratified in beholding something consistent with my
expectations, urged me to an early rising ; and, having first
taken a look obliquely to the left, on the opposite side of the
street, and then my breakfast, I Sallied forth to behold, and
not caring to be seen.
My direction was towards the Plaza, which, when 1 had
arrived there, I discovered to be a vacant paved square of
ground of about four acres. The government palace, the
former residence of the viceroys, fronts this square on the
east ; on the south and west are buildings occupied as shops,
having corridors extending over the side walks, resting on
arches, supported by pillars. On the north is the cathedral,
with its grounds covering the whole front of that side of the
Plaza. There are one hundred and fifty places oi' religious
worship in the city of Mexico, not exceeded, in capaciousness
and richness, by any other city in the world.
The cathedral of Mexico is said to be the largest in Ame
rica. This vast religious building has had a larger expendi
ture of money and labour than any other house in the city.
Its -site is upon a portion of tho ground formerly occupied by
the palace of Montezeuma and tho towering temple of the
Aztics, erected for the worship of the Mexican war-god,
which rose to the height of one hundred feet, and called the
temple of Coatepautl. It may be that I am deficient in taste,
as regards architect ;ral proportions, but the front of the
cathedral I could not altogether admire. It was without a
basement sufficient to set off, in perfection, so stupendous and
grand a building ; for tho want of this, some five or ten feet
above the flat surface, much of the imposing sublimity of tho
cathedral is lost. The proportions of (he cathedral are also
much impaired by an extensive addition having been erected
on the east side, to about one-half the height of the building ;
while on the west, tliere is no corresponding wing, which

62 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
makes the view of the front, when taken as a whole, appear
as if the west end had been destroyed, or, otherwise, that the
funds of the church were deficient for the purpose of complet
ing the cathedral ; and that, at some future day, it was de
signed to supply the vacuum.
The cathedral is, beyond doubt, the most attractive edifice
in Mexico. The workmanship of the whole front is studied,
and laborious, and I must confess that I have never witnessed
so much expenditure in attempting a display of carvery by
chisel, the most singular figures that I ever beheld, which
covered the whole front of that magnificent edifice. The re
markable carvings are not, to my knowledge, historical of
any thing, and I could but look upon them as barbaric
hieroglyphics put on to please the Indians. The pillars that
ascended up against the wall, for the support of the two
high cupolas of the cathedral are, in shape and resemblance,
that of the harp, with a lion's foot at one end, and a serpent's
head at the other ; the name of the order I have never heard,
if it has a cognomen.
The statues that stand in the niches are Saint Paul, Saint
Peter, Saint James, &c. &c, not one of which are of marble.
When we take into consideration the material of which this
costly structure was erected, being of basalt, which is much
more impervious to the edge of the chisel than Quincy granite,
I could not but think of the consumption of time and toil
which the pride of the followers of the meek and lowly Jesus
inflicted on mankind, to show them on earth the gate to
heaven. On the west end of the cathedral, about ten feet
from the ground, is let into the wall, the calendar-stone, or
" Montezeuma's watch," as denominated at the present day,
and which has excited considerable speculation among the
antiquarians. The interior of the cathedral of the city of Mexico is
extravagantly splendid in all its apartments ; the dome being
supported by two immense basaltic columns of the Ionic order.
The railing and banisters around the altar and galleries are of
silver. Many of the candlesticks, some of which are at least
ten feet high, if not of rich gilt, are either of silver or gold.
It is said that, besides many other images of precious metals,
it contains a Virgin Mary of full sized statuary, of fine gold.
It has also a railing around the high altar, the metal of which is
composed of brass, silver and gold, mixed ; for which, it is
said, an English company offered a large sum of money, and
to replace the railing in full weight in pure silver.
Mr.  Officer, a young American artist, informed me
that, having obtained permission to ascend the high altar,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO^ 63
at he might examine a tablet of Murillas, of Lazarus at the
rich man's gate ; while there, a priest also ascended, having
in his hand the Virgin of Remedius ; and, on its being pre
sented to him, he was of necessity obliged to kneel down and
kiss it. While in this act, he not only discovered that the
saint was without a nose, but the padre also : and, for that
reason, it had been entrusted to his care. I am willing
enough to believe that the padre will never have another nose
to stick to his face; but as for the absurdities told by the
priests, that they have used all the efficacious modes of apply
ing glue and nails to fasten a new nose on their saint, but
that all the ingenuity of the pious and the skill of the mechanic
have been defied, for such is the obstinacy of the saint, that
she would not have a new nose ! As Mr. O. further stated,
the dressing of the Virgin was covered with diamonds, it is
said to be the most wealthy saint in Mexico, with the ex
ception of one.
This cathedral is also the tomb of Iturbide, whose remains
are deposited in a box, and positioned against the walls of
the cathedral, having on it the inscription, " Sacred to the
memory of Iturbide." The sweet tones of all the bells of the
churches are said to be owing to the silver in their composi
tion : and never in my life have I heard so musically sonorous
a bell as that in the great tower of the Cathedral ; yet I am
disposed to think that this clearness of sound is attributable
to the rarified air in which they are suspended, than to any.
silver they contain. One thing I know, however, that it was
vexatious to be always obliged to be listening to the prac
tising of them.
The convents of Saint Augustine and San Francisco, are
the largest buildings that I have ever looked on, and they
seemed to me, with their domes and many cupolas, to be ci
ties in themselves. At the convent of San Francisco, I once
attended divine worship, and heard a sermon preached in the
English language, by an Irish priest. His services were for
the benefit of foreigners who spoke English, and was listened
to by about one hundred persons. I was informed, previous
to my arrival in Mexico, that many of the houses had sunk
some feet, resulting from the fact, that the city was built on
marshy lake land ; and I observed, that in consequence of the
sinking of the convent of San Francisco, the side-walls on the
western side had to be raised two feet to make it even with
the pavement of the street.
The Government Palace is an extensive building, covering
a whole square. Within its walls are appropriate apartments
for a mint, a garrison for several regiments of soldiers, cham-

64 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
bers for the Deputies of Mexico, and offices for the cabinet,
besides having a large portion of the building apportioned for
the chief magistrate of the country. The front of the palace,
I was informed, measured about three hundred feet. It has
a heavy prison-like aspect, being (as is almost invariably the
case) stuccoed and whitewashed on the outside. It has no
windows to the outer walls of the lower story ; but to the
upper one there is a regular row of windows with sashes and
panes of glass, as are customary in the United States ; which
by no means is a general thing in Mexico, for the climate does
not require it ; and likewise persons could not be found who
would trust themselves to such flimsy protection ; and the
stranger will find that, unless the house is inhabited by Euro
peans or Americans, the windows will only have the strong
shutters. A large folding door or gateway opens in the front
of the palace, just in its centre. But there is an ornament,
not on the outer wall of the building, but affixed to the gable
end of the centre of the eastern side, which I should not neg
lect tp mention; it is a golden or gilded sun, believed by
some to be of pure gold.
A General stands at the door of the reception-hall, officiat
ing as porter; at the White House at Washington City an un
titled Irishman and a coloured man, perform those menial of
fices. When the reception-hall is entered, the visitor beholds
at one end of the room, a throne canopied with crimson,
where the Dictator sits in state over the destinies of the Mex
ican Republic. I had understood, previous to my visit to
Mexico, that in the construction of the palace some marble of
uncommon workmanship had been imported from Italy, for its
adornment ; but Captain Cortes of the Grenadiers, who very
politely pffered.his services to conduct me through the palace,
assured me that there was not a foot of marble in the whole
edjfice. In the centre of the large Plaza, in the front of the palace,
the government was erecting a monument in commeminora-
tion of tliR national independence of Mexico, which vvas to be
surmounted by the Goddess of Liberty. The Plaza is much re
sorted to by the people of the city, and was found to be very
convenient by the combatants during the last revolution.
Besides the cathedral and the churches generally, excepted, I
found but two houses in the city, that impressed my view, as
being different in some of their features from the general same
ness that universally attended all others. The first was the
ill-fated Iturbide palace, which still bears his name, having
more of the elegancy pf the Spanish style than any other I had
seen, and not having been stuccoed, the out wall was built of

t
TRAVELS ifr MEXICO. 65
dressed stone, ahd but that the inelegant and unmeaning hiero
glyphics were cut upon the stone, the palace would bear in
spection in any city. The other alluded tO, is that in which
the office of the administration of coaches is kept. Its outer
walls are of mosaic work, with glazed blocks of different co
lours, resembling porcelain. The new unfinished theatre,
which is to bear the name of the hero of an hundred victorious
battles, Santa Anna, is to have an entire classical and modern
front. While promenading the streets of Mexico to glean something
of its fame, the ringing of the bells was a constant annoyance
to me, and it did seem that I should never become accustomed
to them. To one not haviDg been used to the continued sound
of the church-going bells, it could not otherwise than be dis
tressing. My way, too, Was impeded in the streets by crowds
going to and from mass, and absolution ; and added to the re
verberation of church and convent bells, was the explosion of
rockets from those places of holy worship, as if it seemed that
some church or convent was in the act of celebrating some
feast every day. They have an expression in Mexico which
was difficult for me to understand, which was — gueriendo a
dar, wishing to ring. It appears that some short time pre
vious the general ringing, some one or more smaller bells would
commence a tolling, or irregular ringing, until the time should
arrive for the grand uproar of all the big ones.
Besides the numerous beggars to be found in eyery crowd,
and under every saint, and at every corner of the street, I
found likewise beggars stationed at every door of the churches,
who are employed by the priests to ask alms of the passers by,
for the benefit of each peculiar institution. This is an every
day business, and from such an example by the church, the in
dolent are encouraged to make their living by asking charity.
I have had journeymen beggars solicit me to give them money
for the family of Joseph, Jesus, and the Most Holy Virgin.
Their importunities are couched in the most impressive lan
guage, and which is perpetually at their tongue's end, "By the
blood of Christ, and the agony of the cross, give for the benefit
of the holy lady Guadelupe."
A person walking the streets of Mexico finds that he must
frequently step aside to permit the water-carriers, and Other
day labourers of the class of lazarones, to pass and repass, or
else come in contact with them, as from the inclined position
of their heads, they cannot see before them. And 1 hope I may
not be disbelieved, by those who have never witnessed the
feats of strength of a lazaroue man, carrying as much Weight
oh his back and head as almost any of the mules of the coun-

66 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
try, at least their burthens to me seemed to be equal in bulk to
the heaviest articles, transported by such animals. The dress
of this class differs materially from that of the decent people.
Their upper bodies are covered alone by a serapi or blanket,
with a hole through the centre, for a head to pass through, or
else it is worn as the North American Indians do their
blankets ; his pants are made of leather, and do not reach be
low the knee ; he is without leggings of any kind, and his feet
are shod with sandals.

CHAPTER VI.
Visit to the National Museum and University. Bronze statue.
Sacrificial stone. Curiosities of savage antiquity. Gallery of
paintings. Library room. Museum proper. Paintings. Por
trait and armour of Cortes. Helmet of Alvarado. Giant of
Jalapa. A miniature representation of two silver mines. Indian
relics. Conchology. Mastodon. Santa Anna's portrait. Former
grandeur of the City of Mexico. Montezenma's Menagerie and
Aviary. Floating gardens. Visit to Conde Peniaske's private
museum. Philosophic apparatus. Paintings. Chinese trans
parencies. Carved picture. Bomb shell. Maquey book. Cry
stallization. Beautiful lady. Feast day of Guadaloupe. Ring
ing of bells and firing of rockets and cannon. Going to mass.
Flags. Picture of the Virgin of Guadaloupe. Procession. Joseph,
the Infant, the Virgin Mary. The multitude embracing the In
fant. Origin of the Virgin Guadaloupe. Pueblo of Guadaloupe.
Village of mounds. Multitude of people at Guadaloupe. Com
mercial booths. Dealers of Monte. Gambling priests. Roman
Catholics of the United States, Europe, and Mexico. Habits of
the priests. Wealth of the Church of Mexico.
Having had my curiosity somewhat satisfied, in my cursory
ramble over the city, I felt desirous of witnessing whatever
might be considered scientific or displayed the remains of an
tiquity. I accordingly, on the 9 th of December, visited in company
with Mr. Green, (a promising young American, and Secretary
of the United States Legation at Mexico,) the National Uni
versity, which also contains the National Museum.
The University is near the Government Palace, and upon
entering the great door way, the first object that met my view
was the equestrjap and colossal bronze statne of Charles IV. of

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 87
Spain. Since the revolution the Mexicans, in their singular
attachments and ideas for every thing republican, have de
nominated the statue the " Big Horse," and in the same spirit
of patriotism, have removed the weighty construction from be
fore the palace, its original position, at an expense of twelve
thousand dollars, within the court-yard, the place it now oc
cupies in the National University.
This statue is boasted to have been originally designed and
cast by Tolsa, a Mexican statuary ; yet with much apparent
truth, it is contended that it was the workmanship of an
Italian artist ; be that as it may, it beyond doubt reflects much
credit on the sculptor, whoever he was, and I have ever been
impressed with the opinion, that nothing to be seen in Mexico
can compare with it. The statue is said, with the pedestal
upon which it is positioned, to measure about twenty-three
feet. Charles IV. is represented mounted on the horse, with
a wreath of laurel bound around his brow. He is in Roman
costume, with a robe flowing over his shoulders reaching to
the horse. In his extended right hand is a truncheon, and a
sword on his thigh. The horse is represented as moving for
ward, with his right hind foot treading on a quiver of arrows.
The design and execution of this colossal figure is said, by
competent judges in such arts, to be as symmetrical and per
fect as any to be found in any country. . To me it had an im
posing appearance, exciting more of interest than all the ob
jects of the city together.
Under the corridor of the same court is the Sacrificial
Stone of Montezuma, besides many of his gods thrown con
spicuously together, but which are said to have belonged
originally to the sacred temples of the heathen monarch.
Although this stone bears the name of the Sacrificial, yet it
cannot be the one as described by some historians, which had
its position on the top of the great temple of Teocalli, for
that stone is represented as having a smooth oval surface, so
that when the victim was extended upon it, his breast was
protruded, and the priest thereby was the better enabled to
make the fatal incision, and tear the heart palpitating from
the body. The stone now seen, must have been used in some
other temple than that of Teocalli, as its weight would have
been an ineffectual barrer to its high elevation on the temple.
The diameter of this horrid stone is above nine feet, and three
feet through. It is sculptured all round with representations
of demoniac Indian priests and unknown hieroglyphics, having
some resemblance to those found in Yucatan by Mr Stephens
of New York. The level surface of the stone has singular
figures cut upon it. There is a hole in the centre of about

68 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
twelve inches in diameter and two feet deep ; tliere were also
trenches cut from this centre cavity to the outer edges of the
stone. The hole, it is said, was intended to receive the blood
of the human victim sacrificed on it ; and trenches served the
purpose of conducting the superfluous gore from the centre,
over the sides of the stone, for the additional uses of the
priests. While casting my eyes aroupd me> I could only
regret to behold so many valuable curiosities of savage anti
quity so indifferently preserved — being heaped together in
piles, as if they were but the fragments of stone from a fallep
wall,
Fropi the court we asceuded a flight of steps, which carried
us on the corridor ; and the first room we entered, was a
gallery of paintings.
The portrait likenesses of this room consisted chiefly of
presidents, politicians, generals, bishops, and priests of Mexico.
Some of these paintings seemed to my comprehension to have
been finished by masters of their art, and all of them were
hung in elegant gilded frames. I have been informed, that
Mexico once contained paintings of the best artists ever
known to the world, but the priests, who left the country
after the revolution, took with them the larger portion.
These acts resulted in causing the Mexican Congress to enact
a law, prohibiting a painting of any kind from being taken
out of the country. But that was locking the door after the
thief had made his escape.
From the gallery of Fine Arts, I was conducted into a
capacious apartment called the Library room. I found in this
the librarian, as I imagined, seated at a revolving wheel,
deeply absorbed in reading newspapers. On our entering the
room we requested permission to examine the library, which
he poljtely granted, but without leaving his seat to open the
cases for our inspection, so intent was he in reading the news.
As the case, however, had glass doors, we could easily read
the titled labels of the books contained therein. The room
was sufficiently large to have contained an hundred thousand
volumes ; yet the National Library so called, judging by the
eye, did not possess more than two thousand. Nevertheless,
some portraits and paintings were hung aropnd the room,
which exhibited appearances of great aptiquity. The books,
as far as I examiped, proved to be mostly Latin and French
works, for in an hour's inspection I did not meet with more
than some half dozen Spanish volumes.
From the library room we entered the Museum proper, and
it was a source of disappointment to find that that apartment
likewise contained paintings which seemed as if they had

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 69
been hung around the room more for the purpose of ornament,
than of establishing a gallery of fine arts. And notwithstand
ing I had become fatigued by looking at pictures, I determined
to give them an inspection, for the fact of their antiqated ap
pearance. They consisted of paintings of the kings and queens
of Spain ; the viceroys, and bishops of Mexico. Amongst
them was pointed out to me that of Ferdinand, as also that
of Isabella. But that which chiefly attracted my notice, was
one of Hernando Cortes, with the high forehead, and the
countenance expressive of that firmness which bore him trium
phantly through a conquest unrivalled in the history of the
world. Under this portrait was the armour of Cortes which
he wore in the heat and shock of battle, and from under
which he so much gloried in calling upon his favourite saint
" St. Jago," and then rushing on to the charge and the
slaughter. The helmet of the Alvorado was also close by.
I would suppose that there never had been but one giant in
Mexico, from the fact that a full length likeness of one was
hanging in the room. This giant had his birth in Jalapa, and
measured seven feet in height.
Besides the paintings in this room, there was a miniature
representation of two of the profitable silver mines of Mexico.
They not only had a rich appearance, but were exceedingly
interesting, from the well arranged specimens of the different
kinds of ore as found in the mines. These exhibitions not
only showed the various strata of earth, stone and mineral,
but intended to present the exact aspect of the excavations
under the surface ; and by an ingenious toy contrivance, the
turning the wheel by which all the machinery used for bring
ing the heavy metals to the top of the earth would be put in
motion — as also the labourers who were at work in the mines,
with pickaxes and shovels; while, at the same time, the mules
with their heavy packs Would slowly move along like things
of life.
By this happy construction, the looker-on could be saved
the necessity and trouble of descending the shafts of the mines
to examine the different specimens of mineralogy, and the
modes by which such are disinterred. The mines intended
to be represented are those of Rio del Monte and Friznillo. I
have no doubt that if some of our enterprising Yankees had
them, they would be sure of making fortunes by pedestrianiz-
ing the Union.
The remaining curiosities in this room consisted mainly of
Indian relics, conchology, and the helmets and armour of the
early Spaniards, all of which were badly arranged, if they

10 Travels in Mexico.
could be said at all to have order. Among the Indian curio-
ties were vast numbers of stones, both great and small in size,
said to have been the gods of the Aztics. Of that race of
people it is said, that, besides the gods worshipped in their
temples, every family, as well as every individual, was pos
sessed of gods peculiarly their own, and regarded as the in
struments througli which only the greater divinities should be
appeased. These gods are sometimes of the brute order, while
others are of half human and half brute or reptile species.
There was also to be seen every variety of rock, knife, and
Indian point, besides as much fashion exhibited in calumet
Indian pipes, as ever was seen in any one article. There
were drinking vessels shaped like frogs, Mexican rabbits, birds
and snakes, intended perhaps for Pulque purposes, cart-loads
of which are found in the excavations of the city of Mexico,
and which likely were buried by the Indians, as it is said they
did their silver and gold, during the siege of Cortes.
In the fourth and last room, were the skins of many ani
mals, birds, and snakes, stuffed in an imperfect manner, and
not amounting to one-twentieth part the quantity of those to
be seen at the National Institute at the city of Washington.
And besides other exhibitions to be seen in this room, there
were to be met with, in the cabinets of mineralogy, every va
riety of mineral ores as discovered in all Mexico, the precious
metals of which, if extracted, would amount to no inconsider
able sum, besides its value and richness of appearance. It
must have been arranged by some classic Frenchman, as the
specimens were all habited in the French style.
After I had for some time investigated the bones of a Mas
todon, and other fossils, which lay scattered over the floor of
the room— on raising my eyes in search of other curiosities,
the portrait of Santa Anna met my view, aud on looking
around to discover if there were any others in the apartment,
and finding none, I could not but be impressed with the vani
ty of his friends, or of himself, in thus so conspicuously giving
his portrait the entire room, instead of hanging it in the gal
leries with those of the other distinguished compeers in the
country's service.
On retiring from the Museum and the University, I again
reflected upon the former grandeur of the city of Mexico,
when under the dominion of Montezeuma, whose name must
ever be coeval with this great place— and contrasted in my
own mind the flourishing condition of the barbaric arts and
sciences in his time, with those the Mexicans of the present
day enjoy, having the aid of the Christian religion, and the

Travels in mexicO. 7L
example of the civilized world to instruct them in the laby
rinths of philosophical research, and lead them through the
archives of learning.
The conquerors found at the city of Mexico a menagerie and
aviary, filled with every animal, creeping thing, insect, and
bird known to their country. The animals, birds, and reptiles
being confined in appropriate cages, by a suitable arrangement
of large enclosures, were attended by persons appointed for
that exclusive business. And what was not inconsistent with
Indian taste, the Emperor also had a collection of living
dwarfs, who were provided for in consequence of their dimi
nutive size, peculiar physiognomy and singular Bhapes. I do
not consider such an exhibition of dwaris to have been more
repugnant to feelings of humanity, and to public morals,
and decorum, than the shocking and mournful sights to be
seen of preserved infants, in many a jar of the National
Museum. Such appearances should belong alone to the cabinet
of the surgeon.
Montezeuma had also his botanic gardens, some of which
floated on the lakes, and in them were cultivated with great
care every variety of flower, plant, and shrub, to please the
sight, and adorn his idols ; nothing of which are to be seen
at the present day. It is true that the old Spaniards did
divert themselves in paying some attention to the cultivation
of the refined ornamental arts and sciences, but all is now
lost — for the Mexican of the present day is devoted to the
art of resounding arms, and the desolation of his own country
now marks his footsteps with kindred blood, and ruined
civilization. On the 10th instant, by the invitation of Mr. Green, I accom
panied him to the Conde Paniaski's dwelling, to have a view
of his private Museum, which has hardly ever escaped tho
notice of travellers in Mexico. On our arrival at the courte
ous Conde's, he seemed pleased to see us, and had the doors of
his museum thrown open for our inspection.
The first room we entered contained a valuable philoso
phical apparatus, which at once demonstrated that he was
learned as well as curious. He had in his collection in that
apartment many paintings from the pencils of celebrated
artists, together with curious and delicate ivory transparen
cies of exquisite workmanship, brought from China. Among
these, that which most interested my admiration was a land
scape view, said to have been cut with a penknife out of
ivory. This carved picture presented a back ground of a
forest, with a field in cultivation, and on the fore ground was
a dwelling, garden, yards, and fruit-trees, all in the most per-

02 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
feet and exact representation. The whole picture Was com
prised in the small compass of four inches square, presenting
the most singular piece of ingenuity that I had ever beheld.
He had likewise a, fragment of the French shell that blew
down the cupola of the castle of Sap Juan de Ulloa, together
¦vyith many iron and lead bullets that had been fired upon the
battle-fields of his country.
He had also a book of fine fabric, of the maguey, upon which
the hieroglyphic writing of the aboriginal Mexicans was paint
ed. Mr. Prescott lias remarked — " At the time of the arrival
of the Spaniards, great quantities of those manuscripts were
treasured up in the country. Numerous persons were em
ployed in painting, and the dexterity of their operations ex
cited the astonishment of the conquerors. Unfortunately,
this was mingled with other feelings more unworthy. The
strange, unknown characters inscribed on them excited sus
picion. They were looked on as magic scrolls, and were re
garded in the same light as the idols and temples, as symbols
of a pestilential superstition, which must be extirpated. The
first archbishop of Mexico, Don Juan de Zummarago — a name
that should be as immortal as that of Omar — collected those
painting's from eveiy quarter, especially from Tercuco, the
most cultivated capital in Anahuac, and the great depository
of the national archives. He then caused them to be piled up
jn a ' mountain heap' — as it is called by the Spanish writers
themselves — in the market-place of Tleotelalco, and reduced
them to ashes. His greater countryman, Archbishop Ximenes,
had celebrated a similar auto-da-fe of Arabic manuscripts in
Grenada, some twenty years before. Never before did his
fanaticism achieve two more singular triumphs, than by the
annihilation of so many curious monuments of human ingenuity
and learning."
After having looked on many valuable and interesting cu
riosities in that room, we were shown into an adjoining one
that contained his cabinet of mineralogy, which was indeed
a rich collection. He not only had specimens of all the
minerals in Mexico, but those of other countries in full con
trast. His cabinet was arranged in classic taste, as every
thing about his Museum and house appeared to be. His col
lection of coins were numerous, some of them having the stamp
of Alexander the Great. The Conde had also in that room the
monstrous sight of a preserved infant, with one body, and two
well-formed and independent heads.
As my eyes ranged around the room, a collection of bril
liant crystals attracted my attention, and as I became deeply
engaged in beholding the splendid scene, for at the same time

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 75
my view was dazzled by the prism, the agate, the topaz, the
sapphire, and the sparkling diamond, scintillating as it were,
rays of light from their bright surfaces — when behold I in the
midst of my admiration, my attention was suddenly diverted
by the appearance of a young lady on the opposite side of the
glass door near me. Slightly turning by the accident of the
occasion, my eyes met those of the lovely fair one, and not
withstanding my whole soul, but the moment before, was en
raptured with gazing on the splendid beauties of nature's
gems; yet, I must in truth say, that the lovely, smiling young
female who then met my view was iufinitely more charming
and more beautiful to behold, than all the rich and splendid
diamonds of the cabinet of crystalization, Indeed, from the
first momentary glimpse of her, there was not remaining a
single impression on my mind of any of the curiosities pf the
Museum. While my thoughts were thus bewildered, the
lady, like an angel, glided softly away, and I was roused
to self-possession by the voice of Mr. Green, and in a de
lighted and happy frame of mind, we left the Conde Paniaski's
mansion. On the 11 th December, the celebration of the feast day of
Guadaloupe, the patron saint of Mexico, took place. The per
formances on that occasion were not intended as the great
festival of the Virgin of Guadaloupe, but only as it were, a
Queriendo, a wishing, as some called it, to begin a grand ex
hibition which was to come off on the 12th mstant, at the
temple erected for the worship of her shrine, three miles from
the city.
I was aroused from my slumber, on the morning of the 14th,
at 4 o'clock, by the never-failing and indefatigable bells, to
gether with the firing of rockets, making rapid explosions,
from all the churches in the city, It did seem to me that the
quick volleys of ten thousand muskets could not have made
more noise. I rose from my bed to look out, not knowing
that the firing was in honour of a feast-day. But my first im
pressions were that a revolutionary action had commenced,
that would make the Dictator tremble on his throne, by the
hopeful issue of a new aspirant's attack upon the lion in his
den — yet, by throwing wide my window I discovered that all
was quiet and harmonious on earth, and above from the ram
parts and towers of the celestial buildings, shot the streaming
fire high in the air, which showed that the war was only in
heaven, whilst men and women were smiling on the scene.
But at the moment of the rising of the sun, the comba,
deepened — for the firing of cannon was opened on earth, and
J>

74 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
for all the day, in thundering tones, echoed back the small-
arms of the skies.
The religious ceremonies of the day commenced by the in
habitants going to mass in crowds, dressed in their best attire
for such occasions. The lazarones seemed, for the time, to
have skulked from the streets, by the increased decency of the
general public. All the houses of the rich had in front white
flags floating from them, with their favourite saint, the Virgin
of Guadaloupe, pinned to the centre, while the high towers
and belfries of the churches had the red banners of the cross
streaming from them. As evening approached, the rich and
the poor, riding and walking, all mixed in one common crowd,
in the streets, to join the solemn procession of the occasion,
which was to take place at four o'clock. Fire-works were
erected at the crossing of the streets, while in every direction
I beheld triumphal arches of flowers thrown over the streets,
and the archbishop was drawn in his coach and six, attended
by servants in crimson livery. In fine, every thing had the
most gay and lively appearance.
When the appointed hour had arrived for the saints to make
their glorious entry in public, and join the multitude, I saw
Joseph, with an infant in his arms, mounted on a splendid car,
drawn by men, enter from a church at the extremity of a street,
followed by young boys, fantastically dressed, and holding
bouquets of flowers in their hands, — then came the Virgin
Mary, mounted on a car, similar to Joseph's, but borne on the
shoulders of men, and having a golden wreath floating over her
head, — and with her gown covered and glittering with pre
cious ornaments. With meek humility, contrasting strangely
with her rich attire, she seemed to smile benignly on the good
people around her. She was escorted by a party of priests, a
band of music, and a company of soldiers ; and, as the pageant
passed along, amidst the roar of the firing of the rockets,
small-arms and cannon, the people uncovered themselves in
profound respect to the glittering procession.
As I followed on after the crowd, and arrived opposite the
gate of San Francisco, I discovered there a priest holding in
his arms the wooden child, the same which I had seen Joseph
bear. The eager multitude around were vieing with one ano
ther in their embraces of the infant. In my own profession,
in acknowledging my obedience of God and his Son, as known
to mankind, through the means of the Old and New Testa
ments, not considering it necessary, in keeping the command
ments and precepts inculcated therein, to declare homage or
fealty to any Christian depomipation, — the scenes of that day

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 76
impressed my mind with the folly and superstition of mankind
in their attempt to worship with pomp and show the Supreme
Head of the universe, instead of giving upto him that reason
able service which he requires at the hapds of his creatures.
The fete of the 1 1th inst. was not to be compared to that
which was to take place on the succeeding day, at the church
erected in honour of the Virgin Saint of Guadaloupe, three
miles from the city. It will not be improper here to state the
origin and history of the patron saint of Mexico ; and I pro
test, that in so doing, my object is not to deride, or impose
upon the minds of the credulous, but to relate the prominent
features, so often recounted to me, with all the semblance of
truth and hearty belief, by several Mexicans.
It is said that, on the 8th of December, 1531, an Indian, by
name Juan Diego, was seated on a rock on the mountain
Tepeye. Being overpowered with fatigue, (being then making
a long journey,) while taking his rest, the Virgin Mary ap
peared to him, and directed him to go to the city of Mexico,
and say to the bishop, that she desired him to worship her on
the spot they then occupied. The Indian forthwith arose, and
went into the city to obey the commands of the Virgin, but
upon the following day returned, and informed Mary that he
was but a poor Indian, and could not obtain an interview
with the illustrious bishop. She commanded him to return,
and insist upon being heard. In compliance, Diego returned
the second time ; and, on the following day, said to the Vir
gin, that the bishop required a token from her to give his
statement validity. Whereupon she ordered him to go upon
the mountain, and pluck some roses, and bring them to her. —
The Indian, on going there, was surprised to find the roses
growing on a mountain where tliere was no soil or vegetation.
He presented the flowers to Mary, which she threw on his
serape, and directed him to carry them to the bishop. The
Indian, having presented the serape to the holy man, he un
folded it, and, behold, not only the roses were therein, but he
also found a full-length portrait of the Virgin Mary. The
bishop could no longer disbelieve, and the Indian informed him
that the image on the garment should be called the Virgin of
Guadaloupe ; whereupon the archbishop ordered that a splen
did church should be built on the spot, to commemorate the
miracle. Having taken a coach, my route lay north from the city. —
A great portion of the way was on one of the two causeways,
which stretch over an arm of the lake, jutting between the
city and the church. The ride was delightful, and I felt much
refreshed by having to quit the noise and bustle of the city,

76 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
and at the delightful prospect of the lake, and the trees scat
tered along the margin of the causeway.
About midway to Guadaloupe, I observed a small village of
dirt mounds, where the inhabitants lived like burrowed rab
bits, and, indeed, there was a chapel, built of the same mud
and earth, having a belfry ; and, having no shape of bricks in
the structure of the walls, these dirt hovels presented a bold
contrast with the city behind, and the wealthy church in
front. When I arrived at the celebrated temple of Gaudaloupe, it
seemed to me, from the appearance of the crowd through
which I had to pass, and the confusion which reigned there, as
if all the world was about to congregate at the shrine of the
Virgin. There was a vast number of padres and friars, who
had assembled from all parts of Mexico, to worship at the feet
of their patron saint. Canaliso, the dictator, pro. tern., and all
the members of his cabinet were there, dressed in complete
uniform. All the diplomacy were there, dressed in honour of
the great saint-day. The thronged and mixed multitude pre
sented amost singular appearance, in contrast with the gaudy
uniforms of the civil and military functionaries. The black,
the grey, and the white habits of the clergy, with their long
shovel hats ; the foppish appearance of the arriero and the la-
drone, with the broad-brimmed hats, with silver or gold
bands, light laced jacket, large pants with buttons dangling
down the seams, and red sash around the loins ; the common
citizen, unable to make any show ; and last, though not the
least in number, the Indian and greasy lazarone, all mixed in
one common herd, formed an unpleasing and distressing sight.
Besides the many shops in the row of buildings, which ex
tends round the church, there were many booths all over the
Plaza, in which commodities of all kinds were offered for sale,
affording to the hungry means to satisfy his appetite, and to the
pious, images of saints for their worship. But their business was
not confined to these ; many of these booths were filled with
dealers of monte, a game resembling faro, and with casters of
dice. In fine, every thing in the way of game was offered un-
¦der the eaves of the sanctuary, and the protection of the
Virgin. Here was seen every description of character at play— the
civilian, the soldier, the priest, and the citizen. It is not my
interest here, to make fictitious statements of any thing I may
have seen in my visit to Mexico ; but, on the contrary, desire
to please all people ; and, if any Catholic should take excep
tions to my remarks, he cannot deny that they are true, for
the world has proof as strong, I was going to say, as holy

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 77
writ ; — at least other testimony than mine. My purpose is to
write a book of my travels ; and whatever I have seen in
church or state, I shall use my prerogative in approbating or
condemning, as I may conceive it just and proper. However,
be it said, of the Roman Catholics of the United States and of
Europe, that they have not their holy religion corrupted by
Indian rites and shows, to win the savage and uncultivated to
the Christian faith.
It is now nearly four centuries since the Indians of Mexico
were converted to the Christian religion, and surely it is high
time that the church should be purified. But I not only stood
and saw the fathers of this institution under the shadow Of
the shrine they worshipped, betting at cards and other games,
but I was credibly informed, that the church itself was the
holy owner of many of those gambling tables.
My first desire was to enter the church, and, having suc
ceeded, I was impressed with the power of that religion
which so extravagantly used the wealth of the world to de
corate itself withal. All the banisters and railings, which met
my view, were of silver. The large chandelier, which hung
by a gilt chain from the dome, was also, I am informed, of
the same precious metal. As I entered, the many candles it
contained were about being lit by a man who had ascended by
a ladder, and mounted the chandelier, Walking with ease
around it, until he had illuminated the tall tapers. The altar
before the Serape, which contained the express image of the
Virgin, so miraculously wrought by herself, was of silver, and
was surrounded by a forest of gold and silver candlesticks. —
The Serape was in a gold frame, five or six feet in length, and,
besides a multitude of other diamonds, there were nine large
stars worked with diamonds, supposed to be worth twenty
thousand dollars. At the foot of the image are clusters of
diamonds. Above the Serape is a solid dove of silver, sus
pended in the air, some three feet in length.
The arched domes of the chapel were highly gilded and
painted with representations of angels flying in the clouds.
The ceremonies were long and solemn, during which mass was
taken. I was told that, on one of these festival occasions, a
priest from old Spain was requested to deliver a sermon, and
he refused, saying, that the Pope had never recognised the
miracle of Guadaloupe. The motto of the church is " Non
fecit taliter omnia nation a." The services being long, I spent
a portion of my time in examining all within and without. To
the rear of the church, but attached to the building, is a chapel
erected over a fountain, and with the water the worshippers
not only crossed themselves, but washed in it, believing that

78 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
its efficacy was the same as the pool of Siloam. Up the side
of an abrupt mountain of rock above the church, a winding-
path conducted me to a small chapel, where also religious ser
vices were performed.
During my rambles over the place, my attention was di
rected to an old padre who stood in one of the large doors of
the church, and whose fingers were covered with diamond
rings. My friend also pointed to his large gold shoe buckles,
that were thickly set around with diamonds. The precious
metal and brilliant stones bore a remarkable contrast to the
old clergyman's black gown and shovel hat. By the way, I
put myself to the trouble to ascertain the diameter across the
brim of one of those hats, and it was precisely twenty-eight
inches. The brim is rolled up at the sides, and the fropt and
back parts present a shovel like form — hence they are called
shovel hats. To those who have a vague idea of Mexico,
and the religious ceremonies of that people, it will appear
that it was a national festival, and that the President, pro
tern., and all of his cabinet were there in their elegant
uniforms — consequently, when nobles come to worship, the
priests must, for decency's sake, put on their fine jewels.
I think I have heard it defended by Protestants, that religion
should be dressed, to make it respectable in the eyes of tho
rich, and, if it should be right in them, ought it to be an error
of the Catholic?
The priests in Mexico are numerous. They are to be seen
at any time, and in every place. I observed that, day and
night, many of them were loafing about the streets and bar
rooms of the city, in their long gowns, reaching from the chin
to the heels. My having so recently left a land of temperance
societies, it impressed me with some degree of horror to be
hold the heralds of the Cross taking their beverages, unre
strained by public opinion, in the Restaurats. This surprise
was more especially felt, since I was aware that, through the
instrumentality of tlie Catholic clergy, both in Europe and the
United States, it was that the use of wines and ardent spirits
were not only prohibited to that body, but that, by their sober
example, and their eloquent denunciations of the habitual or
other use of alcohol, they had won the approbation of the
world, and restrained their laity as well as themselves from
the brutal practices of intemperance. To my own mind, as
also in the opinion of gentlemen of the Roman Catholic p'ro-
fession,the clergy of Mexico seemed to act in many respects
independent of their brethren of the United States and the old
world, and appeared to conceive the performances of their de-.
portment harmless, which indeed in other countries would

TRAVELS IN MEXICO^ 79
shock the good sense of propriety of both clergy and laity.
However, there is some degree of palliating excuse for the
frailties of poor human nature in Mexico— for as the maxim is,
that " money is the root of all evil," its abundance there has
worked wonders in corrupting the habits and morals of the
people of that country — and thus it is that, through the super
stitions of the people, the reverend gentlemen had imposed
upon their credulity, by impressing on their minds that con
tagions are atmospherical, and not the results of certain habits.
I have been respectably informed, however, that tippling,
gambling, and lewdness of habit, though they would appear
to a stranger to be general,. are not prevalent among all the
clergy of Mexico — for perhaps there exists as much piety in
some few of them, as in any of those of other denominations,
and the Mexicans, of all other nations, are peculiarly subser
vient and constant in their own way to their religious rulers,
and devoted to their worship.
From the best information I could obtain, the church has a
fee simple titled right to one-third of all the real estate in the
country of Mexico, and, as it is supposed, by money loaned,
secured upon mortgage, have a lien on another third. The
revenues of the church, derived from the rents of houses and
lands, usury on money, profits from monte, donations and
clerical fees, are said to amount to many millions, the (precise
sum being unknown,) if it could be ascertained. The grana
ries of the church and the priests husband half of the crops in
the land. The government of Mexico can with difficulty pay
the interest of its public debt, and support itself; and when
ever an instalment is to be liquidated, the money is raised by
forced loans. Query, What becomes of the revenue of Mexico ?
The government in its extremity, in 1841, had all the landed
estate of the church assessed, and it is said, by some of the
priests too, that nothing but the bribery by the church of the
government officers, has prevented the property of the ehurch
from being confiscated — it must come ! Spain has set the ex
ample. But all this will not avail in relieving the people, unless the
government is administered by clean fingers. The revenue, as
at present collected, would liquidate the debt of Mexico in
two years — at least, it is so believed by some, but it falls short
of doing so, by the mismanagement of those in power. What,
then, becomes of the people's money P

60 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER VII.
Return to the City of Mexico. The Theatre. Pour Theatres and
one Plaza de los Torros. Audience at the Nuave de Teatro.
The Ladies. The Plaza de los Torros. Audience. Drawing of
a, Lottery and Bullfight. Cemetery of Santa Paula. English
have the right of burial. The Cemetery. The Chapel. Garden.
Flowers. Vegetables. The Portal Way. Orange and Lemon
Trees. Rows of boxes. Coffins shoved into niches. Gilt frames.
Ornamental Works. Lamps. Mound of Human Bones. The
Grave diggers. Monument to Santa Anna's leg. Return from
Santa Paula. The youth John Hill. The College of Mines.
Arrangement of the rooms of the College. The Cabinet of Mine
rals. Models of Machinery. The Observatory. The Observa
tory proper. Baron Humboldt. Splendid View. Chapel. Po
liteness of John Hill. Gaming room. Gambling. Influence of
Money. Public opinion. Whitewashing the housea. Peats of
daring of the Mexicans.
Having: become oppressed by the fatigues of the day at Gua
daloupe, I again took a coach for the city of Mexico. Not
withstanding my desire for repose, the temptation of the
Nuave de Teatro was not to bo resisted. It was that night
to be attended by the fashionables of the city, and the diplo
matists with their families. I, therefore, in company with
some American acquaintances, set out for the theatre.
There are four theatres in the city of Mexico, and one Plaza
de los Torros. From what I could learn, the Teatro de Prin
cipal, besides the one above-named, was much attended by
the polite and respectable classes of society. However, a new
theatre is about being completed, to bear the distinguished
name of Teatro de Santa Anna, which, when finished, is ex
pected to carry the world of Mexico before it.
On arriving at the Nuave de Teatro, I felt gratified at its
ample and pleasing construction. Its singularity from the
theatres of the United States was scarcely visible, and in but
one respect worthy of remark. This was, that the seats of
hoth boxes and pit had well-stuffed cushions and backs to
thorn, which is a comfort that is not to bo found in most of tho
theatres of tho Union. Bills of the night's performance were,
as usual, handed to the audience, accompanied with a long
and flaming printed controversy between the Spanish and the
Mexican architects, who in turns had been engaged in the
erection of the Santa Anna de Teatro.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 81
But that which chiefly interested me, and indeed, as I was
unacquainted with the Spanish language, the grand induce
ment for me to visit the theatre, was to witness the assem
bled beauty of the occasion. My seat was secured in the cen
tre of the pit, and in Mexico it is a choice place with many of
the ladies, some of whom I had the happiness to see had taken
their places near me. As I had desired, my arrival at the
theatre was rather early, and by that means I had the better
opportunity of observing the play-going folks as they came
in. All having been seated, I ventured to raise my eyes from
the many charms around me. In the boxes to the left were
to be seen some of the Ministers and Consuls from European
kingdoms, whose places were graced by the welcome sight of
many soft blue eyes, and fair complexions. But principally
to the right were to be beheld the languishing and melting
dark eyes, with long eye-lashes, of the delicate Spanish
brunette complexions, in rows sufficient to take away the
senses of any man — the ex- Marchionesses and rich heiresses of
Mexico — and as they gracefully waved and flourished their
beautiful fans from pit to box, the diamonds on their small
fingers were not half so bewitching as their own personal
loveliness. I thus discovered from the conversation of com
pliments by the fan, I had not only to learn the Spanish tongue,
but the mystic language of the tan — for the ladies of Mexico
are quite Masonic, and with all my intercourse with the peo
ple of that country I found that it was as necessnry to un
derstand the meaning of their gestures, as of their words,
many of which are very significant. The play seemed to go
off with the knowing ones very well — the name of it I do not
remember. The story of the piece, I was informed, was the
history of two lovers of the same belle, one of whom she co
quetted with, the other she had loved and married. A dance
and a few songs wound up the entertainments of the evening.
On the following day, it being Sunday, I took occasion to
visit the Plaza de los Torros, as that would be (he only op
portunity I would have of witnessing a bull-fight in Mexico ;
and besides, 1 wish it understood, those exhibitions always
and only happen on thnt day.
The Plaza de los Torros is of circular form, and capable of
holding, as I was informed, ten thousand persons; but on the
occasion of my visit, it did not contain half that number. Of
such antiquity has the practice of bull-fighting been among
this people, that owing to their aversion to discontinue old
habits mid the innovation of improvements, it is not surprising
that a large portion of the audience I beheld at the Plaza de
D 5

82 TRAVELS IN MEXICO^
los Torros, was composed of the female sex — of what caste
they were I cannot depose.
The evening's entertainment commenced with the drawing
of a lottery, which was conducted on a similar plan to the
lotteries in the United States, — placing tbe blanks and prizes
in one wheel and the tickets in another. As the prizes were
drawn, the judge who presided over the wheels of Fortune,
would, with chalk, mark the lucky number on the back of the
clown, who also having written the figures on a board in his
hand, would then run around the circus with many grimaces,
reminding me of the fool with his prize, as pictured on the bills
and signs of lottery offices in the Union. The prizes were all
drawn, as I was informed, by the judges and the bull-fighters,
the highest of which did not exceed two doubloons.
The ring having been cleared, expectation was visibly anx
ious on all, and they were not long kept in suspense. A no
ble looking bull came bounding into the avenue, showing
every evidence of his good pluck, and so undaunted did he ap
pear to meet the consequences, whatever they might prove
to be on the occasion, that my feelings were enlisted in his
favour, and had the action been of that character, which is
generally supposed by those who have never witnessed a scene
of the kind, I should unconsciously have shouted, Hurra for
the bull ! thinking that he would have had some equal chance
in the combat. But not so : six stout Spaniards and Mexi
cans entered the lists, well mounted on horseback, armed with
long spears. With such odds and formidable weapons, a single
thrust of which could have terminated the life of the poor ani
mal at any moment, u cold chill was thrown over the whole
affair, for it really appeared to be nothing else than murder
a prepense. All the interest which my imagination had enkindled of
deeds of chivalry, was subdued, and I could only look on the
whole spectacle as cruel and brutal slaughter, — cruel, because
the bull was by piece-meal tortured into an agony of pain,
without having had any chance for his defence. I witnessed
the death of several brave bulls. At length a poor horse,
without a rider, was placed in the arena expressly to be killed
by a bull, which having been done by the infuriated animal
goring him in tho side, and the horso unable to movo out of
the way, the matadors turned the animal, which lay on his
wounded side, over, thus exhibiting the gushing gore of the
agonized creature, which, when seen, was greeted with loud
shouts from the applauding audience of bravo torro! bravo
cavello .'—bravo bull ! bravo horse ! I turned from the bloody
and heartless scene with contempt and loathing disgust.

US
Having already seen much of the city, with mingled plea
sure, admiration, and disappointment, I still felt desirous of
gratifying my curiosity by further investigations of this re
nowned place. Mr. Green, to whom I felt indebted for his
many attentions, accompanied me, on the 15th inst., to the
cemetery of Santa Paula, upon the suburbs of the west side of
the city.
By the way, the British government stipulated in an article
of their last treaty with Mexico, that the English citizens of
the Republic should have the rights of burial within the coun
try, which article of importance was neglected on the part of
the United States in their treaty. However, on account of
the many grievances suffered by Americans on the score of
matrimony, the United States government has granted to her
consuls in that country the power of performing marriage
ceremonies, a prerogative which had escaped the treaty
making power of Great Britain.
But to return. Having arrived at the last sad home of all
the living, I discovered that the cemetery contained about
eight acres of land, and was enclosed by a wall of sun-burnt
brick, about fifteen feet high. The entrance to this burying
ground is by a large gate of handsome masonry, which is on
the east side. Upon entering I perceived that, in the centre
of the cemetery, a chapel was erected, in which the last funeral
ceremonies were performed over the dead. A broad avenue
leading from the gate, carried me immediately to the door of
this chapel. The avenue is lined on both sides with every
kind of flower and shrub, and indeed upon the left hand, be
tween the entrance and the chapel, there is a flower and vege
table garden in a high and lovely state of cultivation. Upon
taking a stroll through this garden, I saw, much to my as
tonishment, the kail vegetable growing as high as ten feet,
and having a stalk three inches in diameter. Cabbages were
also large, being from three to four feet in height. On inquir
ing of an American gentleman who had been residing for ten
years in Mexico, if the seeds of those vegetables were the
same as those in the United States, — he replied in the affirma
tive, and attributed their mammoth growth to the climate,
and the richness of the soil. Although with pleasure I beheld
the luxuriant growth of the vegetables and flowers in that
garden, yet it would have been with much regret that I should,
knowingly, have eaten any thing growing on such a spot, — ¦
cultivated as they are with the dust of the dead.
Having retraced my steps to the entrance of the great east
ern gate, my first direction was to the right hand, under the

£i TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
roof or portal way that extended over a broad thoroughfare.
Upon the left hand of the walk was a continued row of
painted boxes, having the coat of arms on their sides, of dead
men's bones crossed, in which were growing, perpetually, the
green orange and lemon trees. The keeper of the cemetery
lives adjoining jts walls, and has servants continually water
ing and cultivating the flowers and shrubbery in the boxes.
On the right hand of this portal way are situated the
niches, where the wealthy dead are deposited, and the arrange
ment is a most happy one. The first basement (upon which
the apartments rest) is three feet high. There are but three
rows of niches extending along the sides of the outer walls,
one above the other. After the coffin containing the corpse
is shoved into the apartment selected for it, (in which there
seemed in fact to be no choice, from the irregularity in which
they were placed,) the mouth of the niche is then closed, and
tightly built up with bricks and mortar. On the face of the
closed receptacle, upon marble, or painted and ornamented
glass, enclosed in handsome, and sometimes costly gilt frames,
is recorded, in golden letters, the name, birth, and death of
the individual interred within.
These show-glasses, or marble slabs, generally have epi
taphs, with appropriate engravings or paintings, in good taste.
And, consistent with Catholic usages, some of these burial-
places have lamps with tapers burning in them, either by the
side or over the head of the deceased friend or relative.
Others are fantastically decorated, agreeably to the age or sex
of the departed one, with flowers or ribands, demonstrative
of the affection of the living for the dead, and indicative of
the felicitous condition of the weary who are at rest. Some
of those ornaments of artifical work are of great neatness
and elegance.
A berth in one of those niches can only be obtained at the
price of twenty dollars, for the term of five years. However,
the rich sometimes take a lease for a longer time, or perhaps
for ever. After the time for which the apartment has been
rented has expired, tho place is then re-opened, and the coffin
containing the remains of the deceased is disinterred, and the
remnants of mortality it contains are taken from their con
finement and thrown upon a large heap of other bones in one
common pile. The coffin then, ¦mhcrabih dictu, is split into
fragments, and, with other fuel, promiscuously mixed toge
ther, is heaped in one mound of as many human bones as the
want of lime may require. The pile is then burned ; and thus
I perceived, with painful feelings, and many melancholy re-t

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 85
flections, that, ultimately, whether rich or poor, the ashes of
the dead are made cement of for the erection of other clay tene
ments for the daily dying.
I observed in one corner of the grave-yard, a vast mound
of human skeletons, which were not disposed of, as high as
the wall, and at least twenty feet in diameter at the bottom.
This pile of dead men's bones reminded me of the historical
account, as given by the conquerors, who found in the Aztic
cjty of Mexico, a Golgothic pyramid, containing one hundred
and thirty-six thousand human sculls.
Upon the ornamented face of one of the niches I read the
name of a Spanish poet, Don Antonio Hessesa, a native of
Cuba, who had been banished from Havana in consequence of
his liberal sentiments. On another, that of the heroic Joan
of Arc, of Mexico, Donna Maria Vicario de Quitana, who
preferred to leave her convent and join the standard of her
country, under which she performed many feats of valour.
She died on the 21st August, 1842.
The grave-diggers are continually employed in excavating
graves within the common arena, whether they have or have
not subjects for their occupancy, so that they may be ready
for some one or more departed fellow-mortals. Indeed it is
but little trouble in that cemetery, to shovel up the black and
greasy mould to make a grave, which is only three feet deep,
and filled up with water, as soon as dug, till it shall be pro
vided with a tenant of human clay.
But what diverted my respect from the consecrated place in
a considerable manner, and almost annihilated the effect of the
useful lessons which the cemetery had impressed upon my
mind, of human life and its end, was the beholding the pride
and pageantry of a monument, surmounted with the arms and
the flag of Mexico floating from its corners, over the mortal
remains of the left leg of the immortal Dictator, Santa Anna.
The hero must excuse me, for since his leg has become public
property, it cannot escape comment, and that too will be
made, with blame or praise, as freely as his own deeds, just
as bis person will be eulogized after he himself shall have de
scended to the tomb. It was a bold stretch of your leg,
General, that you made of it from Vera Cruz to the city of
Mexico. Santa Anna having become disgraced in the eyes of his coun
trymen, and of the world, on account of his Texian campaign,
had retired to his farm of Mango de Clavo, to spend the rem
nant of his days in mortification. But the good fortune of the
French invasion, once more put the warrior into his saddle, at
the head of the Mexican army, in the field before Vera Cruz.

8fi TRAVELS IN MEXICO?
In a gallant charge made upon the enemy, he gloriously re
trieved his character as a brave man, but at the expense of
losing his left leg below the knee, by a cannister shot. The
wily General at once determined to hobble in some way to the
climax of preferment, on the dismembered limb. By a master
stroke of genius he, knowing how to please his countrymen
and gain power, sent his fallen leg to his fellow citizens in the
city of Mexico, accompanied by an eloquent letter, breathing
patriotism. The stratagem succeeded, for the shouts and re
joicings of this deluded people as they in triumph thronged in
procession through the streets, proclaimed an ill omen to the
good Bustamente, warning him of the end of his administra
tion, and sounding the funeral knell of liberty, and peace at
home. The enthusiasm of the Mexicans was such, that they had
hardly finished the inglorious monument, before the usurper,
at the head of his army, had made himself master of the gov
ernment and become the Dictator of the people.
One of the flag-staffs of the monument was broken down,
perhaps by some one of his countrymen more daring than the
rest, to retrieve the honour of his country's flag, and show his
opposition to the highest authority upon earth.
It would have been believed that the critics of the civilized
world had debarred any people, not excepting the Mexicans,
from displaying in future the ostentation as exhibited upon the
field of Waterloo, in erecting an obelisk over the fallen limb
of the Marquis of Anglosea, an acknowledged soldier, and a
high-minded warrior. It is true that while Arnold the traitor
was in London, he inquired of an American — what the people
of the United States would do with him, if he should return
to his home ? The American replied, that the leg in which he
had received an honourable wound, in the cause of liberty and
independence, would be cut from his body and buried with all
military honours ; but that bis body would be hung between
heaven and earth, as a traitor to his county.
True it is, that Santa Anna deserves the gratitude of his
countrymen for the loss of his blood and tho sacrifice of his
limb, in defence of Mexico; yet it must be hoped that he never
may meet the fate of Arnold had he returned to the United
States. It is related of the Mexican hero, that a boot and
shoe-maker of the capital manufactured a wooden leg, upon
which he was enabled to have a good substitute for the de
parted and monumental limb ; to reward him for which, the
Dictator commissioned him a Colonel of a regiment, but with
the express understanding that the boot-maker should manu
facture his boots and legs us long as he lived.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO? 8?
On my return from Santa Paula, I was much pleased with
the opportunity that presented itself of visiting the College of
Mines. Upon our arrival at the building, we found it to be of
large dimensions, and partaking more of the appearance of a
modern edifice than any other in the city which I had seen.
Here we fortunately met with the Mexican youth, Mr. John
Hill. This interesting youth, born of American parents, was the
youngest of two other brothers, who were taken prisoners at
at the assault of Mier, and brought to the city of Mexico.
Young as he was he had the bravery, at the early age of
twelve years, to fight so desperately at the side of his father,
as, to the knowledge of others, to kill fourteen of the enemy —
and, even after his father had surrendered, the intrepid boy
maintained the conflict until his gun was forcibly taken from
him. Upon the arrival of the prisoners at the seat of government,
in consequence of the tender years of John, and the admiration
the Blexicans had for so brave a boy, he was granted the
freedom of going at random in the city, and not kept in strict
confinement with his father and brothers. Having thus pos
session of his liberty, he made application to General Thompson,
requesting him to appear in behalf of his imprisoned relatives,
in the presence of the Dictator. The General, pleased with
the manly youth, advised him to make his petition himself, in
person, to the supreme authority, for the liberty of his father
and brothers. Through his agency an interview was obtained
for this purpose, with Santa Anna, and master John proving
to have a sufficiency of the Spanish language to plead his own
cause, he did so with so much smartness, that the Dictator
not only consented to set Iris father and brothers at liberty,
but informed the hero and young solicitor that he would adopt
him as his own son, give him an education in the best schools
of the Republic, and when this was completed he should have
his choice of a profession.
Young Hill consented to the kind and liberal offer of Santa
Anna, and his father having received his liberty, gave his ap
probation to the agreement of his son with the kind Dictator.
Thus the heroic little boy found in the greatest enemy of
Texas, the adopted country of his father, his best friend, and
one to whom he could feel grateful all his days. He was, at the
time I saw him, a student in the College of Mines, the princi
pal institution of learning in the Republic.
Mr. Hill was glad to meet with us, being Americans, and
promptly proffered his services to show us the College. He
made application to his guardian, General Tornel, Minister of

JJB TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
War and of the Navy, a professor in the Institution also, for
the keys, (as it being then vacation time, the apartments
were locked,) which he obtained, and I could not but remark
the pleasure the young man took in showing us every thing
worthy of notice. It was with pain to us, and some confusion
to himself, as he was conducting us from room to room, it was
observable that he was forgetting his native tongue, by being
often very much in want of English words to express himself.
On such occasions, he would supply the deficiency by the use
of Spanish, and individuals have assured me, that whenever
the young acquire a new language in a foreign country, they
will invariably lose their own native one.
After he had conducted us through the different rooms of
the institution, all of which were to be admired, although
upon a different arrangement from the manner in which Col
leges are usually conducted in the United States, as each class
had to attend its particular professor in their separate apart
ments, there to study their recitations, and receive instruction
from him in person ; this plan prevented the student from
idling his time away in his own room.
He showed us into the room containing the cabinet of mine
rals. The collection was more numerous than any I had
before seen, and would have been a rich treat, for any geo
logist to have examined — for there were varieties of specimens
of all the mineral kingdom, but more abundantly of silver and
gold. This apartment also contained many models of machi
nery, as used in the mines of Mexico.
He likewise conducted us up to the Observatory. In the
first apartment of this there is a spacious room, containing
two large telescopes, besides a variety of other astronomical
instruments for observations. From that room we ascended
up to the Observatory proper, and it was with a degree of
pleasure and pride that my footsteps were planted upon the
same platform where Baron Humboldt stood, when taking liis
astronomical observations of Mexico. Like him I compre
hended in the same view the two high volcanic peaks of Po
pocatepetl and Irtacuhuatl, lifting their grey heads to heaven ;
while the distant Orizava, mantled with snow, and resplend
ent with a halo of light crowning its lofty summit was seen,
and then the nearer prospect of porphyriiic rock mountains,
stretching their natural defences around the lovely plain of
Mexico : while in perspective the distant lakes stretched their
arms like seas, as the havens of Montezuma's city. The tem
ple of Guadaloupe looked like a splendid monument at the foot
of the mountain, and tho puebla of Tacaba appeared to be only
the country residence of a prince. The broad city of Mexico

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 89
was spread at my feet. The golden sun of the National Pa
lace dazzled before my eyes, as also the bright porcelain
domes of the churches. I had then, for the first time, an op
portunity of beholding distinctly the flower-gardens upon the
flat roofs of the houses, the sight of which was a lovely one
for the admirers of both vibe and blossom. While stapding
upon this most elevated place, above all the other edifices, I
was reminded of Cortes, when he was taken by the hand, and
led by Montezuma to the top of the temple of Teocalli, where
was pointed out to the conqueror the locations of the place,
and, in the language of Mr. Prescott, " below them lay the
city, spread out like a map, with its streets and canals inter
secting each other at right angles, its terraced roofs blooming
like so many parterres of flowers. Every place seemed alive
with business and bustle — canoes were glancing up and down
the canals — the streets were crowded with people, in their
gay and picturesque costumes — while from the market-place
which they had so lately left, a confused hum of many sounds
and voices rose up in the air."
Our young friend conducted us down from the Observatory,
and I was pained to perceive, as he was unlocking the door
of the chapel, that he had forgotten the English terms by
which such places are denominated. With a blush, he said
that he was about to show us the room where the students
knelt ; and although he felt with some confusion that he was
losing his native tongue, yet he had not forgotten his manners.
It was a pleasing sight to behold in a youth so tender in
years, as he opened the door of the chapel, with reverence and
respect for the holy place, take off bis hat, before entering the
consecrated prayer-room. He seemed to take a pleasure in
informing us where the students knelt, and described the
watchfulness of the old chaplain that they should perform their
devotions with decorum.
From the chapel we were shown into another part of the
building, which contained a billiard-table, dominoes, chess,
backgammon and draught-boards. This room is devoted to
the recreation and amusement of the students, during vacation
hours. And, when we take into consideration the habits of
the Mexicans, and the location of the College, I could not dis
cover the impropriety of the apartment, knowing, as I do, that
it is a part of the accomplishment of a Spanish gentleman to
be skilled in the art of these games. Besides it was obvious
that it was better for the student thus innocently to spend his
time, in a mental and bodily exercise, instead of loitering
about the streets, perhaps in the dissipation of a large and
populous city.

90 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.'
If not permitted to leave the college walls during intervals,
he surely should have some agreeable mode to wile away
the allotted moments for recreation. Gambling is prohibited
by the express regulations of the institution, and thus the
youth is taught the scientific usefulness of those games, at the
same time he learns to despise the acquisition of gain by them.
It should be remembered that, in those sunny regions, the
polished Spanish gentleman prefers rather to indulge himself
in the moderate exercise of a game of billiards, or else to seat
himself in one of his rooms with marble floors, than to fatigue
himself under the burning sun of that climate. I do not
pretend to defend the gaming room of this college, upon the
system of morals and religion of the Protestant creeds of
faith — for while the reformers are mortified at not correcting
that, and other evils of wealthy society, it should be remem
bered that in Mexico the vice of gambling is tolerated by the
church. Hence it is that what suits some people is very im
proper in others — for, as already remarked, as it regards the
habit of the Mexicans, it would appear that a knowledge of
the science of games is an accomplishment, very important ;
as there is in every public, as well as in most of the houses of
the wealthy, a billiard and gaming-room, which is always
crowded, and not to play is to render yourself unfit for polite
society. Thus it is perceived that, in consequence of the indolent
habits of the Mexicans, growing out of the abundance of na
ture, and their few wants, together with the warmth of their
climate, they have necessarily been taught to amuse them
selves, while they thereby escape the heat of the sun. And
while, in a cold climate, athletic exercises in the open air
would be more improving to bodily health and strength, and
at the same time less demoralizing, the prevalence of gambling
and playing at games is predominant in the affections of the
people of Mexico, in a degree inimical to the individual pros
perity of their species.
I was informed that Santa Anna was in the habit of giving
feasts expressly for the dissolute. But every thing the Dicta
tor does, although it may be law, is not morality or religion.
The practice of gambling in Mexico is so respectable, that he
who is able to establish himself in its pursuit, by keeping a
monte-bank, rather ascends than declines in public estimation.
This has its origin in the Tact that the prosperity, or presumed
wealth of an individual, stamps his caste in society, no matter
how his riches are obtained, whether by fair or foul means,
yet he is privileged according to the amount of his store. And
such must always be the case, where, in the state of social

TRAVELS IN MEXICO.' 91
compact, in any community, merited virtues and humble ho
nesty, though poor, are disregarded, and which when beheld
by those who should be the protectors of morals and good or
der, who instead of fostering, rather cast the chilling blast of
silent neglect over them, thus affording a poor encouragement
to virtuous deeds. Public opinion, in some instances, in every
country, has done some good ; but, as it regards the "almighty
dollar," it has most egregiously sinned against itself by rather
corrupting than improving the moral condition of society.
There are two colleges in the city of Mexico, and one
university. If there were more I did not learn their names
or their locations.
By a decree of the government, the houses of the city are
all to be painted or white-washed on the outside, once in
every twelve months. This operation was being performed
while I was in the place, and 1 could not help observing, on
my return from the College of Mines to the Gran Tociadad,
the marked difference, in the improvement which it made in
the appearance of the houses. The city, had on my first arri
val, a dirty and dull aspect — but no sooner had the painter
and white-washer began to flourish their brushes, than the ca
pital, like a young girl dressed for aTiall, put on a more
cheerful and gay appearance. I was often astonished at the
feats of agility and strength, as also of daring, which the
Mexicans had in ascending and descending the high walls of
their buildings, by the aid of a petre, a rope made of the
maguey plant.
On one occasion, I saw a man who had been engaged in
painting the walls of a convent, ascend a single rope, hand
over hand, about fifty feet. When he had reached the cornice
of the upper portico, another Mexican who was standing
awaiting his arrival, with one hand hold of the bannisters,
reached down, and with the other grasped the man on the rope
under the arms, and lifted him with ease on to the cornice of
the portico. Crowds of people would stop to witness those
feats, and oftentimes the air would be rent with shouts, when
some exploit more adventurous than others was performed.
The longest ladders cannot reach half way to the top of many
of the buildings, and the painters are often seen suspended at
the end of ropes, in baskets made for the purpose, and let
down by this means over the top of the walls. They occasion
ally fall and lose their lives, as was the case, in one instance,
from a house opposite my lodgings.
In passing through a. street of the city, I observed a win
dow tilled with engravings. I paused a moment to examine
them, and to my surprise discovered that they were unfilled

Dg TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
bank bills ; apd, upon minuter inspection, perceived that notes
of the principal bapks of most of the States of the Uoiop, were
thus exhibited to public view iu the wipdow of a Mexicap
engraver— the Brandon notes not excepted. Bankers should
look to it, lest their vaults may be filled with paper instead of
specie from Mexico.

CHAPTER VIII.
Ramble in the Alemade. Circles, fountains, and statues. Names
of Hidalgo and Iturbide. The carriages, walks, and crowds of
ladie3 with their fans. The Pasio, Fountains of water. Statues
ot the Azetic gods, Carriages passing up and down. The Cava
liers. The management and trappings of the horses. A walk
without the walls of the city. Beautiful country scenes. Christ
mas day in Mexico. Grand mass celebrated at the cathedral.
Crowds of people in the Plaza. Merchandise of the hucksters.
Confused scene. Brokers. Night. Piae torches. Intoxication
by drinking pulque. Narrow escape. The cathedral crowded.
Grand mass. Raising of the Holy Ghost. Splendid view of tbe
richness of the cathedral. Reflections. The services of the ca
thedral last all night. Mexican ladies. Premature debility.
Paris fashions. The social habits of the ladies. Courtship by
letters. Gentlemen in disguise. Ostentation at the theatre and
pasio. An English lady. Rebozoes. Los ire. Festivities of
Christmas day. The Dictator, pro. tem., and suite. Yankee
driver. The big show. Plaza de los Torros. Human affairs.
News of a British fleet. Mr. Dpil, the British charge-de-affaires.
Suspended relations of the two powers. False alarm. British
jack on the Plaza.
Mr morning's excursion having been made to Santa Paula, I
determined that my evening's enjoyment should be devoted to
a ramble over the alemade, a promenade or park, and along
the pasio, a ride, of the city of Mexico.
These places are the morning's and evening's resorts for the
recreation of all the wealthy ; and here are to be seen the
pride and fashion of the city, whether native or foreign.
The alemade is within the precincts of the city, although on
its margin. It is enclosed by a wall, and contains about
twelve acres of land. Within, it is thickly grown with elm
and other trees. Between the wood and the wall around it is
a carriage-way, and rows of seats for pedestrians, from cor
ner to corner. The whole is divided into well-flagged walks,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 93
and, at suitable distauces, are large circles, having fountains
of water spouting high in the air. In the centre is the largest
of those circles, having a statue of the Goddess of Liberty,
in gold gilt, mounted on a pedestal, with two gilded lions
crouching at her feet, while spouts of water are issuing from
their mouths. On the sides of the pedestal hang two flags, on
which appear, separately, the names of Hidalgo, who gave
birth to the Mexican revolution, (Sept. 16, 1810,) and of
Iturbide. Thus, in singular contrast, are exposed from the
statue of the goddess, the name of the first revolutionary and
republican patriot of Mexico, and that of its emperor.
Soon after my arrival at the alemade, the carriage-way was
thronged with vehicles, mostly having ladies seated in them.
Notwithstanding their loveliness was attractive, and the
twirling of the fans was ominous of good tidings to a lover,
or of compliment to an acquaintance : yet it could not but ap
pear awkward, if not unnatural, to behold a yoUng lady take
from her bag a flint and steel, and, by the friction of a blow
or two, ignite a piece of spunk, and. having lighted her cigar-
rito, (segar,) puff volumes of smoke from her nostrils and
from between her beautiful lips. The carriages, after passing
round the alemade a few times, would drive out of the south
ern gateway, and continue their journey to the pasio. Crowds
of ladies and gentlemen filled the walks and the seats of the
circles of the alemade ; and I 'was informed that, on such oc
casions, letters of love affairs were freely exchanged between
the sexes.
Being satisfied with my view of the rural and delightful ale
made, I followed the direction of the carriages to the pasio.
This is on the road to the pueblo of Tacaba. The entrance to
it is by a gateway, having in its centre a tall fountain spouting
high the water. It is surmounted with a statue, resembling
more the description of the Aztic war-god than that of any
other image. There are several other fountains to cool the
evening breeze.
The pasio is about one mile in length, and the coaches, after
passing up and down the ways a few times, would halt at one
side, while others, whjch had just arrived, would drive back
wards and forwards before them as if in review. By this ar
rangement any one individual would have an opportunity of
beholding all other visitors, who had made it their business to
see and be seen. It was amusing to behold the cavaliers,
mounted, with all the paraphernalia of the costly trappings of
their animals, with whip and Spanish spurs, galloping up and
down the pasio, as if they were trying the speed of their
horses, or escaping from the ladrones; while others, more

94 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
desirous of attracting attentiop, would, by a pressure ou the
reip of their bridles, cause their horses to raise their feet high
and quick, as if dancing to the tune of Nancy Dawson ; and
then, when a fair eye is caught, make the apimal plupge as if
he had a ten foot wall to leap.
My walk to the alemade and pasio afforded me, not only
much satisfaction at beholding the customs of the people of
Mexico, but I also enjoyed a degree of pleasure from having
been relieved from the heat and confinement of the city. To
go thus outside the walls, and breathe the pure country air,
with an animated and invigorated system, makes the imagina
tion glow with delight. Such is the loveliness of the land
scape scenery of lake, plain, and mountain ; while the pueblo
Of Tacaba, at a distance, seems like a city on a hill ; and the
royal retreat of Chapultepec, on Chapultepuc monte, Grasshop
per's hill, is beheld through the lofty cypresses of centuries in
growth, seated on the side of a mountain, looking like a
palace of fairy enchantment. Such a prospect makes the soul
swell with emotion, and wish a buoyancy of spirit ; the scenes .
of nature are endeared, and existence rendered of more value
to the possessor.
As the evening was drawing to a close I was admonished,
on my way to the pasio, by a murdered corpse, which was
exposed, for the recognition of friends, at the celebrated prison
of the Acordada, to return to the city.
My Christmas day was spent in the city of Mexico, and
during all the day of the twenty-fourth, my ears were con
stantly saluted by the querieud a dar, or the wishing to ring
of the bells, to inform the good people, that the great mass
was that night to be celebrated at the Cathedral. On the
evening of that day I took a walk to the plaza, to witness the
gathering of the people at that place. Great crowds had as
sembled, from distances in the country, of men, women, and
children, who had spread upon the pavements their fruits, and
goods of all kinds, intending to reside upon the spot during all
the Christmas holidays. Under the corridors of the private
' buildings, around the plaza, were crowds of citizens, ex
amining their trinkets and other commodities, brought by the
hucksters to markets. I observed that many were the dollars
expended in worthless things, to be used as Christmas com
pliments. These holiday merchants had not opened their
goods for a temporary residence of a few hours, but had lo
cated themselves for day and night, as each individual had pre
pared him or herself with a petate, mat, upon which to slum
ber when wearied.
The scene was truly most confused and lively ; more so than

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 95
any I had ever beheld ; and I, for the time, began to think that
there was some enterprise amongst the Mexicans ; for it was
the only sight I had discovered like business since I had been
in the country.
By the way, it would not be improper here to remark, that
all business, of merchandise or otherwise, is done in Mexico,
through the corredor, a broker. If an individual wishes to
purchase a lot of goods, he employs a broker to transact the
affair for him ; or if any other bargains are to be made, the
same agency is used. The vender, and the actual vender, have
no occasion to know one another, for the broker is supposed
to keep in his bosom the name of the individual for whose
benefit the purchase is made. In this manner much chicanery
is used by these agents, who are constantly seen pimping and
prying into every man's effects, without knowing who is in
want of his goods or property. The brokers comprise a large
class of the community, and are ever ready to buy or sell any
commodity. They must, however, be watched, for they are
great rogues.
At night, it being Christmas-eve, I again visited the plaza,
in company with two of my American acquaintances. The
scene was much heightened, in its interesting confusion, from
that beheld during the day. The multitude of holiday mer
chants, who thronged the side-walks, were now scattered all
over tlie plaza, seated on their mats in Indian fashion, and
only discoverable through the dark volumes of smoke that
circled upwards from the pine torches ; and, as the crowd of
citizen spectators passed to and fro, and the guards of sol
diers, with their bright weapons gleaming through the smoke
of the torch-light, marched along, the whole formed a scene
more picturesque than any encampment of the kind I ever be
held. But, as the hour grew late, the interest I had before taken
was diminished, by discovering that many of both sexes were
intoxicated by drinking pulque, the essence of maguey, a cheap
liquid, used mostly by the lazarones.
It happened that, just as we were making up our minds to
leave the plaza, it was my lot to have a serious warning to
depart from thence. As I was passing along, a few steps in
front of my friends, a supposed intoxicated Mexican rushed
from a crowd near me, and, with a long knife in his hand, ex
claimed " Que mureram los estranyeros .'" Death to all stran
gers ! I did not know what the wretch said ; but, from my
friends calling to me, and from a scuffle which ensued between
the assassin and his countrymen, I quickly learned that the

96 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Mexican designed to attack us. We then visited the cathe<
dral, to witpess the ceremonies of the night.
On my entering this splendid cathedral, although it was at
a late hour, the vast building then contained one thousand and
upwards, of worshippers. These were composed of all castes
and characters of both sexes. The place, indeed, appeared to
be a solemn one to me ; and who could look with indifference
or disrespect over so vast a multitude, all kneeling in adora
tion of that being whom I, from my first impressions, was
taught to reverence. And, as the sacred chant aud solemn
peal of the organ ascended the high vaults of the cathedral, my
thoughts, for the time, were turned within, and my secret as
pirations were involuntarily raised to Him who had sustained
my being at home, and in the midst of people of a strange
land. I have always had a respect for those who worshipped God
in any form ; and, it is true, that I have never beheld the great
Maker of the universe worshipped in so magnificent a manner.
Notwithstanding it was contrary, agreeably to my education,
to the simplicity of that worship required of his beings, as ex
emplified by Christ and his apostles, yet the scene amidst the
blaze of a thousand candles, shining with resplendent brilliancy
in that vast edifice, could not fail to impress my mind with the
solemnity of the occasion.
As 1 contemplated all around me, and the ceremony of rais
ing the host was proceeding with great gravity, while the
whole congregation bowed before the holy image of the cross,
it seemed that there was more of form on the occasion thap
the understanding of the heart ; and, as my eyes were again
directed towards the altar, the banisters and pillars, the organ
and the vaulted roofs, the polished surfaces of which were all
of silver and gold, I could not help exclaiming within — " All
is vanity and vexation of spirit."
The ceremonies at the cathedral continued during the whole
night. At the hour of two o'clock I returned to my lodgings
at the Gran Sociadad. I should not close my remarks of this
night's exhibition without saying a word or two respecting
the ladies of Mexico ; for, on this occasion, I saw a larger col
lection of them than I had an opportunity of doing during my
stay in the country. The number who collected in the cathe
dral on this night was considerable. They were all intermixed
with the common multitude ; for here, as well as is the case
in the other churches and chapels, there are no seats for the
congregation; and the worshippers can stand, kneel, or sit
upon the dirty floor, as their inclinations or necessities may

TRAVELS f IN- MEXICO,. 9 f
demand, except during certain parts of the services, when
they are required to go through particular formalities.
In the manner above described, I had an opportunity of
casting my eyes over a promiscuous crowd, and of contrasting
the beauty of the Mexican with the European ladies ; for here
were people of every clime and complexion. From my obser
vations of the Mexican women, as I saw them, both in public
and private, I considered them generally handsome. For the
most part, they are low in stature. They have invariably
black hair and eyes. The skin of some have a tendency to
fairness, in proportion to the care they have taken of them*
selves, and to their alliance with Europeans; yet, in the main,
they appear to be sunburnt, having generally a florid com
plexion, which gives them a singularly beautiful aspect. The
largest portion of them, however, have a dark brunette or
Indian cast. The expression of their countenance, in general,
is distinguished for its mildness and gentleness ; this, added
to their suavity and languishing air, makes their deportment
peculiarly interesting ; and, I could almost say that to see one
of them is to love her.
The ladies of Mexico, who have advanced to middle age, as
I observed, had mostly a tendency to be plethoric. The old
matrons have the most enfeebled appearance of those of any
country I had ever seen, their features being deeply marked
with the furrows of age. The effects of accumulated years,
in this high arid climate, not only lay violent hands on the na
tives themselves, but all who have resided long in that dry.
and hot atmosphere have an appearance of having been
"parched, wearied, riven." The skin too has u dark, crusty
aspect. I once heard a wag remark, that it was his opinion,
a French doctor would do well by introducing into the coun
try an apparatus for puffing plumpness to the skin.
Premature debility and deolining aspect, is also attributa
ble, no doubt, to the fact that young ladies, in that climate,
commence the career of life earlier than is the custom in more
northern latitudes. I have not unfrequently seen, especially
among the lower classes, a mother of the age of thirteen
years, while the husband and father was only a lad of eigh
teen. Hence the consequence must be, that the mother of
some five or six in number, at the youthful ago of twenty or
twenty-five years, must feel and appear to have a broken and
wasted constitution ; while those of a colder clime, and double
their years, will yet be athletic and healthy. By this healthy
bloom of cheek, our widows are encouraged to hope for her
second, or, perhaps, third husband; thereby encountering
double and treble responsibilities.
.E

98 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
The most fashionable and wealthy circles of Mexican ladies
are not only very tasty, but extravagant in dress, following,
in the main, all the varieties and change of pattern, as prac
tised at the fountains of fashion in Paris ; for the city of Mexico
is well supplied with French milliners, both men and women.
I have been informed, that a Mexican lady never wears the
same dress to a ball a second time, although it may have cost
her some five hundred or a thousand dollars ; for silks, laces
and satins are very dear in Mexico.
The social habits of the ladies of this country are veiy
friendly and kind among their neighbours and acquaintances.
The frequency of visiting is not practised among them. Their
calls on one another are short and friendly, yet made with a
degree of formality and courteousness of conversation which
restrains the natural warmth of character.
It is with much prudence, and only upon Sundays, that they
permit themselves to be visited by young gentlemen, and that
only between the hours of ten in the morning and three in the
evening. The entertainments of small tea and dancing-parties
are but little encouraged and practised among them, while
their amours are chiefly conducted in writing. By the way, it
may not be improper to give an idea how some courtships
are managed. A gentleman or lady who has had the shaft
of Cupid to stick deep in the heart, expresses the passion
by sending a letter to the object of their affections. If favour
ably received, this course is continued until their desires are
consummated. But, where the wishes of the parties are anticipated to be
in opposition to those of the parents or guardians, the lover
not only writes, every clandestine opportunity which presents
itself, but in disguise, if fearful of observation, with Blouched
hat, and cloak or serapi drawn over his face, he will take his
stand at the corner of a street, and in this manner, while bask
ing in the sunshine, will indulge himself for a whole day, in
beholding the charms of his adored one, who, perchance, now
appears upon the corridor or portal, and then at the window,
resembling a lone dove imprisoned in a cage, which, by wist
ful, languishing looks and perturbed motion, longs to be free,
and cleave the heaven so much beloved.
It is not unusual for some swains, who have been debarred
from the opportunities of sending a letter, to take the occasion,
when the fair one is on the portal, to pass by, and, at the pro
per distance, suddenly throw open a sheet of paper which has
a word or two written in large letters, so that the eyes of the
lady may decipher it, eagle-eyed as they are to read. In these
these cases a syllable is as much as a volume,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO* 99
The reader, however, is not to imagine, from the above de
scription of the manners and customs of the ladies of Mexico,
that each has not her moments of ostentation, gaiety and
coquetry. For if you could see her, when exposed to public
gaze, visiting her favourite places of amusement, the theatre,
the alemade, or the pasio, you might then behold her, from her
sumptuousness of dress, and by the light quivering of her fan
between her delicate fingers, as she saluted those of her ac
quaintance who may come under the notice of her love spark
ling eyes ; — I say, you might there behold a being whose heart
is susceptible of the warmest sympathies of our nature, and
whose charms, on such occasions, hover like the evening rain
bow to embrace the spell-bound spirits of her admirers.
But little can be seen of the Mexican lady, excepting on
great ball and procession occasions ; then, the elegance of her
person, the modesty of her manners, and the cheerful loveli
ness of her smiles, never fail to feast the soul of the beholder.
The females of Mexico never wear bonnets, but cover their
heads with an article of dress called a reboso, a kind of shawl
some six feet long, and nearly half the same in breadth. This
reboso not only covers the head, but is closely drawn over the
face ; and, by being crossed in front, obscures the bosom. I
did not, but upon one instance, see a lady wearing a bonnet,
and she was a European. I was informed that all ladies from
abroad, on their arrival at the city of Mexico', conformed to
the prevalent customs and fashions of the place, in walking and
riding with uncovered heads. However, I was pleased to see
the English lady, with great good sense, maintain the privilege
of the bonnet, and not throw aside a comfort and an elegance
to gratify the intolerant and bigoted spirit of the natives, who
scorn any other ways than their own ; and the lady", if she saw
me, little knew how unconsciously she was delighting a
stranger, who, by the sight of her bonnet, was reminded of
those at home who lived supreme in his thoughts.
However, the ladies of Mexico, on appearing in public,
covered with their rebbso, are, on some occasions, a little kind,
in having but a small portion of dress over their heads, the
folds of which, by an inadvertent cast of one of her hands,
will drop, and, for a moment, the beholder is blessed with a
view of her bosom and waist. And, what is astonishing, she
will not unfrequently be seen holding a corner of her shawl, or
handkerchief, over her mouth, to prevent the deleterious effects
of breathing the pure air ; as the Mexicans universally believe
that all of their maladies are derived from the atmosphere.
Hence it is, that if you perceive a Mexican with his head
bound up, or look dejected otherwise, his reply, made with a

100 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
shrug of the shoulders, and a leer of her head, will invariably
1)6, " Los ira"-^-the air.
There is no purer atmosphere to be found on the face of the
earth than is breathed on the plains of Mexico ; yet the Mexi
cans seem to apprehend more detriment from it than from the
vomito of the coasts. But as I advance on my journey up the
country, I shall give my attention again to the " los ira."
The twenty-fifth of December, Christmas-day, was also
marked by many other festivities. There was during the
whole day, the firing of rockets from the churches, and of can
non from before the national palace, at the plaza. In the
evening, General Canalizo, the dictator, pro tern., in his coach
of state, accompanied by his guards of lapcers, coromapded by
a geperal officer, rode through the streets to the alemade and
the pasio. To inform plain republicans in the United States,
that it was an extraordinary sight for the first officer of the
republic of Mexico to appear in his coach, would not awaken
their imaginations to the gaudy and royal state in which such
things are done there. But never was I more surprised, and
indeed indignant, than when I beheld the chief magistrate of
a republican government aping the gaudy show and circum
stance of royal pride to please and gull a gaping people. I
had thought that in the enlightened age of the nineteenth
century, republicans of all the continent of America had thrown
aside and disdained the tinsel of monarchical pageantry and
aristocracy, basing their noble bearing alone on the soundness
of their constitutional principles, and devotion to their coun
try's weal.
But so far from the Dictator of Mexico appearing in plain
garb and equipage, and like Washington assuming in public to
be nothing more than a, servant of the people and private
citizen, — General Canalizo had his coach literally fringed and
covered with gold ; and I hardly knew which the most to ad
mire, the splendid uniforms of his coachmen, or that of his
own. But for the fact, that the Dictator, instead of the driver,
Wore the shopo, and was seated within, I would have mis
taken that Yankee, mounted on his seat like a golden throne,
for the Dictator pro tem. of the Republic of Mexico,
There were also Generals dressed in full uniforms, attending
as outriders to his Excellency, while not less than a hundred
lancers were his body guard. Hang down your heads ye re
spectable republicans and generals of the United States I for
you cannot aspire to being postilions and body-servants to the
most high in authority.
Having seen the big show of the Dictator, I followed the
crowd to the Plaza de los Torros, for I was not satisfied with

TRAVELS IN MEXICO." 101
niy speculations, upon the different Castes of society, and the
moral tone pervading each. Having convinced myself that
decent and respectable portions of society, embracing both
sexes, visited the Shows of bull-fighting, I attended the exhi
bition, remaining there as long as I could do sO with afly de
gree of ease or comfort. I observed a mother with three
children, call their attention so particularly to the scene of
blood, that they might not escape seeing all the cruel perform
ances of the occasion. I soon left the barbarous amphitheatre,
never intending to enter it again.
It often happens in human affairs, that, when the fields lbok
most gay, and pleasures are flooding in upon us, almost pro
ducing an elysium upon earth, sudden reverses will overtake
the unsuspecting, and turn the glee of mirth and the pomp of
pride into trembling, fear, and wailing.
So it happened, that just at the present crisis of Mexican af
fairs, on the glad day of Christmas, the news reached the
capital, that a British fleet had arrived before Vera Cnrz, to
demand satisfaction for an insult offered to the British flag by
the Dictator of Mexico.
Upon my arrival at the city, I found that hot only the Mexi
cans, but foreigners of all nations, were much excited on the
subject of the difficulty between the two nations, which grew
out of an affair that happened at a national ball, given by
Santa Anna at the Government Palace. The Dictator had di
rected that the ball-room should be decorated with the tro
phies of flags which had been taken by the Mexicans in battle.
Among the number, conspicuously placed, was the English
Jack. On the arrival of Mr. Doyle, the British Charge de Affaires,
who was an invited guest at the ball, he discovered that one
of the ensigns of his country was spread out as a trophy, to
decorate the brilliancy and glory of the occasion. Mr. D., in
the prompt performance of his duty, peremptorily demanded
of the Dictator of Mexico, that the Jack should be taken down,
as a flag had never been won by the Blexicans of the English.
The Dictator did not hesitate to veto its removal, and Mr. D.
immediately, in the spirit of resentment, left the palace, and as
a British sloop of war was lying at Vera Cruz, he despatched
her home, with information to his monarch of the insult of
fered to her flag.
The anxiety produced by the suspended relations of the two
powers, not only caused confusion with the English in Mexi
co, but with all other foreigners ; as a state of war would
throw many obstacles in the way of all, particularly those
who had to travel, and who spoke the English tongue. For

102 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.'
the Mexicans are so prejudiced, that, when at war, they do
not spare or protect private citizens, or any who belong to
the enemy of their country.
It was amusing to witness the commotion of feeling pro
duced, upon the news of every arrival of a ship at Vera Cruz.
A thousand well-authenticated different rumours would be cir
culating at the same time among the people, and it did occa
sionally seem that the good people of Mexico almost heard
the British bomb-shells, cracking over the castle of San Juan
de Ulloa.
Nevertheless, it proved that, up to the 5th day of January,
no English fleet had arrived off the coast. The government,
in anticipation of the desperate result, had ordered troops to
Vera Cruz, to fortify the fort and the city; but men and of
ficers positively refused to obey orders, declaring that it
would be certain death for them to undertake to defend the
city. The government had therefore to send a dispatch to the
British Queen, announcing its willingness to surrender the
Jack to any of the English authorities empowered to receive
it, with the exception of Mr. Doyle. Thus making a personal
affair of the whole difference between the Charge de Affaires
and the Mexican Dictator. I should not be surprised, how
ever, if her Majesty obliged the Mexicans to deliver the Union
Jack, with a royal salute, to his Excellency, upon the Plaza.*
* Since the above was written, the British Sovereign has received the apology
of Santa Anna, and Mr. Doylewaa recalled.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 103

CHAPTER IX.
Indisposition of some of the Deputies. A failure of a quorum. The
Deputies installed. Speech of Canalizo. Reply of Ximenes.
Celebration of the installation. How things are done in Mexico.
Worship of the Golden Sun. Firing of cannon. Splendid illumi
nation of the Cathedral and Plaza. Installation of the President
elect. Canalizo, the proxy of Santa Anna. Celebration of the
installation of the President. The worship of the Christian, a
happy exchange for the native. Grand parade of all the military.
My stay in the city of Mexico. If the will of the people was
known. Mr. Green gave me notice not to leave the city. Copy
of the" secret order. Determined to take the advice of General
Thompson. General Thompson's negotiation. My opinion. Mexi
can persecution. Two Americans imprisoned at Guymas. Who
are the Mexicans? Union of the European and Indian blood.
Comparative difference of the Christian and Savage worship.
Mild disposition of the Mexican. Lovo of the country. The
Mexicans are a motley race. Solemnity and sadness of counte
nance. Mexican politeness. Confidence in no one who cannot
blush.
In consequence of the indisposition of some of the deputies of
the Mexican Congress, as communicated by letter to the Dic
tator pro tern., a failure of a quorum occurred. Therefore,
upon the day in course for the regular instalment of the mem
bers, the house could not be organised. This indisposition of
the deputies was supposed by some to have been more the re
sult of a mental than a bodily cause, in consequence of their
disgust with the politics of the country, and their want of con
fidence in the Dictator ; as they, during their last session, were
driven from their seats by military force. And I was forcibly
reminded, by their excuses, of the Seminole chief Sam Jones,
who, when commanded by General Jessup to come in and sur
render, returned word that he was lame, and could'nt walk.
The deputies were not installed until the first day of
January. I took the opportunity of visiting the palace in com
pany with an American gentleman, — who, from a long resi
dence in the country, not only knew men and politics, but un
derstood the Spanish language well, — and witnessed the open
ing of the session of the house for the first time under the new
constitution. After the speaker had called the house to order, General
Canalizo rose from his seat, and, in ?i hapdsome mapper, in-

104 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
formed the deputies of the state and condition of the Repub
lic. During his speech, he remarked that the commerce of
the country was in a flourishing condition, and that the agri
cultural and mining interests were never in a more prosperous
state, or yielded larger profitable results. He concluded by
eulogising the manufactures of the country, appealing to the
honourable body to protect the industry of the nation.
The grave and accomplished gentleman having taken his
seat, the majority of the Deputies appeared, by their smiles of
approbation, to be gratified with the flattering account which
General C. had been pleased to give of the happiness and
prosperity of the Republic.
But when Ximenes, the President of the Senate, rose up
in his place, which was a throne, under a royal purple canopy,
fringed with gold, (as often seen from the pulpit, the only
throne in the United States,) he most unexpectedly, soon put
to the blush many of the high coloured assertions of the hon
ourable Dictator pro tem.
In his reply to his colleague of the Executive, he most re
spectfully requested leave to differ with his excellepcy, who
had takep his seat. For, ip the first place, he stated that, so
far from the commerce of the country being in a flourishing
condition, it had been almost effectually destroyed by the re
cent decrees, leaving a prohibitory tariff on most of the arti
cles of manufacture, which were formerly imported into the
country. He also said, that he had not been able to discover
the good results the protective system had given to any por
tion -of the Republic ; for the consumer was obliged, under
the decree, to pay from two to four times as much, in many
instances, for the elegancies and necessaries of life, as those
articles formerly cost his fellow- citizens.
Besides, he said, what the more disparaged him was, after
they had protected the manufacturer, he was yet complaining
of his manufacture yielding no profit, and still demanding the
aid of the government, while he was unable to pay any bonus
for the monopoly he enjoyed ; at the same time, he remarked,
that the decree was extracting largely from the pockets of the
people. He also stated, that he was of the opinion that agriculture
was on the decline ; for although there were no duties levied
upon exportations of the products of the farmer, yet, as al-
piost all trade had been lopped off from the country, and fo
reign powers were compelled to turn the tide of their importa
tions to other parts of the world than their own, and in con
sequence needed not their surplus produce — inasmuch as other
nations were maritime, and Mexico possessed no shipping —

TRAVELS IN MEXICOk 105
the former had to receive a reduced price from the manufac
turer for his grain, or else suffer it to rot in his granaries.
Hence it was, he said, that numbers of farmers Would lose their
places upon the Hacienda campus, and would not find em-1
ployment in the manufactories or the mines ; for the plain rea»-
son, that there Was already a sufficiency of labour, in those
branches of industry.
He concluded his remarks by saying, that the mines also
had not yielded as in former years ; and notwithstanding all
these facts, the national debt was increasing, while at same
time the Executive, who in reality was the government) was
making demands for increased expenditures and protection.
The reply of the President of the Senate, to the speech pf
the Dictator, turned the smiles of some into frowns; and
while others dared not approbate the remarks, at least every
learned and profound member looked as if he just had his eyes
skinned. After these Speeches of the two high functionaries,
the house adjourned; for this was all that constituted the in
stallation of the Deputies.
At two o'clock in the afternoon commenced the celebration
of the occasion; for nothing in Mexico can be performed
without having rejoicing, and the results of such moves have
always happy effects in the benefits which they afford the am
bitious with the multitudes of every country, and in winning
the favour of the people.
Bonaparte was not deficient in having his bonfires and
shows at the corners of the streets, to bribe the common herd ;
as also his grand parades. And I am heartily persuaded, that
processions and shows of rejoicing can be corrupted for ambi
tious and inimical purposes, to the detriment of the people.
It is to be regretted that the people of the United States are
suffering the innovation of such humbuggery.
But that the world may know how things are done in
Mexico, I will give some detail of my observations on tho
grand occasion of the celebration of the installation of the
Deputies. At the appointed time, the citizens had assembled
in considerable numbers on the Plaza, as if they had congre
gated to worship the golden sun on the palace, or the eight
six-pounders which were drawn before that ancient building.
As I cast my eyes around, I observed the bewitching smiles
of many fair faces, who were blessing some hopeful few ; and
it was with some sympathy that I noticed the convulsed
nerves Of the lovely ones, as the thundering peals of the can
non reported volley after volley. The firing of the cannon
and the playing of the music continued until the closing of
the day. E 5

101? TRAVELS IN MEXICO."
When night came, a splepdid illumipatiop of the cathedral,
the palace, apd all the houses aroupd the Plaza, took place.
I could not refrain from going to witness this grand scene.
The windows and the tops of the portals of the houses rouud
the Plaza apd the palace, all shope with a brilliant illumina
tion, while the margins of the flat roofs of the buildings pre
sented an extensive line of blazing torches, appearing like
streams of fire as seep at a distance on mountain heights.
But as I turned my direction towards the cathedral, it was
then that my eyes caught the full blaze of light ; for from the
earth to the top of the two high steeples, it was studded with
burning lamps, casting wide their light over the city. And as
the illuminations shot its rays high in the heavens, like eternal
fires on the Aztic temple, that once covered the same ground,
the distant mountains of porphyritic rock seemed to have
caught the red glare. It called to my mind the period when
all Anahuac worshipped the sun, and when, as the blazes of
the torches ascended up to the bright luminary of the heavens,
the censers on the fires before the altars contained the hearts
of thousands of human victims sacrificed to appease blind and
imaginary gods. I thought of that unfortunate period in the
history of the conquerors, when forty of their number, who
had been taken prisoners by the barbarians, were marched in
long procession, within the distant view of their companions,
who could not come to their rescue, and with solemn chant
were seen to wind their way around the high temple up to its
top, there to be extended upon the jasper sacrificial stone, and
with breasts protruded and frantic screams, have their hearts
torn out, held to the sun, and then thrown to the altars of
their sanguinary deities.
Although the illumination revived in my memory those past
historical events, yet the present temple, I reflected, was
erected to the one, true, and living God of the adorable Trin
ity, — the Christian's God, proclaiming "peace on earth, and
good will to man," and if corrupted in its purity, still it is the
Christian religion which is preached within its walls ; a happy
exchange for the idolatry of former cays.
On the following day the President elect was to be in
stalled. General Santa Anna was not in the city, but had re
turned to Mango de Clavo, immediately after the period of the
big national ball, when he made the fatal mistake with the
British Jack, in making it a glorious trophy. Doubtless the
vanity of the man, in his desire for fame, had persuaded him,
as well as it wished to impose upon the credulity of his peo
ple, that he had achieved a victory over the red coats, when
every body knew that he had never done apy other fighting,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 107
besides the massacreing of his own people, saving the mishap
of San Jacinto, and the gallant loss of his leg at Vera Cruz.
Santa Anna, the President elected, under the constitution of
his own creating was empowered to appoint the elector, and
of course they were obliged to return the compliment by
electing him who had appointed them, their president. The
installation was by proxy, — General Canalizo, his man Fri
day, representing the President elected.
Although Santa Anna had, upon that day, laid down the
absolute powers of the Dictatorship, yet it was a mere far
cical exchange of names ; for the title of President, under
the instrument which he called the constitution, gave him all
the dictatorial functions that he might require.
The day which ushered the quondam Dictator to the pre
sidency had likewise to be celebrated, and as morning dawn
ed, it was hailed by the firing of cannon, continued at intervals
during the day. Ten thousand troops, which had been
stationed in the city, were taken to the private residence of
the president, where, it is said, the wily chieftain quartered
them to consume the cattle of his well-stocked haciendas.
This left remaining, for the protection of the President pro
tern., a force equal to the entire standing army of the United
States, of five thousand men. These troops, consisting of
artillery, infantry and cavalry, well equipped, paraded the
streets early in the morning, marching and counter-marching
through every avenue of the city.
The bands of music accompanying the military were excellent.
The soldiers vt ere all good looking fellows, and in the pride
they appeared to take in the parade, looked as if they had
been well drilled and disciplined. The military are devoted
to their master, President Santa Anna ; and it is by them, not
by the suffrages of the people, that he maintained his power.
As I viewed the pompous procession, my bosom was kindled
with feelings of native republican pride, and I renewed my
resolve, that as long as the spirit of a Virginian dwelt in my
breast, I would never tolerate military usurpation and dic
tatorial despotism.
It is related by historians that seventy thousand human
beings were sacrificed at the coronation of Montezeuma.
In the pageantry of the celebration of the installation of
the President, and the exhibition of his extraordinary powers,
it was perceptible that the people did not have much heart :
for at night, when the illumination took place in the Plaza, I
did not see more people assembled than on ordinary occasions.
On tho contrary, when this spectacle was in honour of the
instalment of the house of Deputies, there was an almost im-

108 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
pepetrable crowd. Besides, they seemed to have been ap
much rejoiced as if they had just obtained their liberty apd
independence. Whereas, when the truly imposing spectacle
of the soldiery was presented in the streets, there were few
people to be seen, — considering their fondness for show ;—
and all the day I observed that the inhabitants confined fhemr
selves more to their houses, than it was their habit of doing
op their festival occasiops.
I heard it stated, by more thao ope Mexicap, that the
paradipg of the military was oply a stratagem of Santa Anpa
to iptimidate the Deputies in their deliberations ; and all the
world knew that he had, previous to their installation, issued
a decree, that they, the representatives of the people, should
not investigate his acts, and that he, as Dictator, was not re
sponsible to them ! And they had good reason to fear, for they
well remembered that the last Congress of Mexico was an
nihilated and dispersed by Santa Anna's having a regiment of
his grenadiers, commanded by Captain Cortes, stationed at
the door of the deliberative chamber, to prevent their meeting.
Captain Cortes is a native of the state of Louisiana. He de
scribed to me the history of the day, and remarked, that when
ever a Deputy demanded of him admission into the chamber,
he was obliged to avert his head with shame, when refusing
the supreme representatives of the people entrance to their
hall ; so that by their rightful deliberations, they might pre
serve the liberties of their country. I heard a Mexican say
also, that the soldiers might fire their cannon, and the priests
illuminate the cathedral ; but if the will of the people was
expressed, the palace and the cathedral would both be hung
in sable.
My stay in the city was much longer than I had wished, or
expected it would have been. My destination to San Fran
cisco, Upper California, being about two thousand miles north
of the capital of Mexico, it was with no degree of pleasure
that my delay was extended to a period of nine weeks. The
difficulties and dangers I should necessarily be obliged to en
counter in tlie hazardous journey, inland, which I contem
plated, were continually oppressing my mind, and I daily de
sired to commence the undertaking, so that, by the toils to be
endured, and the change of scene, 1 might obtain relief.
In the first place, my baggage, that had been promised me
by the conductor at Vera Cruz, should be delivered in the city
of Mexico, in eighteen days, from the time of my departure
from that place, did not reach me under thirfy-six. Next, in
consequence of a communication to General Thompson, from
one of the northern departments of Mexico, I received notice

TRAVELS IN TWEXrCO. 109
thrbugh his secretary, Mr. Green) not to leave 'the city on my
journey, until the subject Of difficulty, originating from the
communication Which he had received, had been settled with
the government of Mexico. For the entire Satisfaction of the
public, I will give the order, the Subject of negotiation, as
furnished to me, by the Secretary Of the American Legation, in
Spanish and English.
" Ministerio de Guerra y Narina.
"Es' mo S'r. ,, ¦
" El. E. S. Presidente provisional usando de los fachl-
tadesj q. le concede la ley de 22 de Febrero de 1832, y con-
vehcido de q. no conviere q. los naturales de los E. Ui del
Norte tengan su residencia en ese DepaKihento del hiando
V. S. se ha servido resolver que salzan de el, en el termino
prudente q V. S. les fine al efecte, y q. en lo sincero no se
admite en el mismo Departo. k mix un individad pertineciente
a los Espresados Estados Unidos; debiendo entenderseesta
prohibicion aim pava los limitrofes a ese de Californias ; a cu-
yo fin, con esta fecha, hajo las respectivas communicaciones ;
lo que tengo el honor de decir a. V. S. para su conocimiento,
recomendandole mui eficazmente el complimiento de esta su-
prema resolucion. " Dios y Libertad. Mejico, Julio 14, 1343.
" (Firmado.) TorNel.
" E. S. Guberaador
y Com. Gen. de Californias." " En la misma fecha.
" Se inserto esta orden a los gobernadores de Sonora, Sina
loa, y Chihuahua. El S'r Urrea contestd al Gobierno, asege-
nadole q. yu habid comenzado a obrar."
" Department of War and Marine.
" The President pro tern., by virtue of the powers granted
him by the law of the 22nd of February, 1832, convinced Of
the impropriety of permitting the natives of the United States
to reside in the Department, under the command of your Ex
cellency, has resolved that they should be ordered put of it,
within such time as it may appear most prudent to you, and
that in future no individual belonging to the above named
United States be permitted entrance into said department ; it
being understood that this order is to apply also even to the
frontier of the department, to which, and under this date, I
have the honour to make known to your Excellency, recom-

110 .travels; IN MEXICO.^
mending; you to carry this supreme order into complete effect.
" God and Liberty.
" Mexico, July 14, 1843.
" (Signed.) Tornel.
" To his Excellency the Governor apd
" Commandapt Geperal of the Californias."
Accompanyipg the communication received by General
Thompson, of which the above is a true copy, was a note giv
ing the ipformatiop that—
" Upder the same date, the same order has been communi-
cated to the Governor Sipora Sinaloa, and Chihuahua. Gen
eral. Uerea replied to the government, assuring it that the
order had already been put in force."
The reception of the above order by the American minister?
demanded of him to act with promptness and decision. And
it should be borne in mind, that upon the issuing of this
decree, the American minister had not been furnished with a
copy according to usage ; but the government secretly commu
nicated its commands to the Governors for it be put into full
effect, before the Americap Legatiop could be made aware of
its existeuce, to prevept its pefarious operatious. This, too,
trapspired at a time of profound peace between the two coun
tries. I determined therefore to take the advice of General Thomp
son, and wait the issue of his correspondence with the Mexi
can government. The General lost no time in communicating
a copy of the order to General Bocanegar, Minister of Foreign
Relations, demanding to know of him, if the copy of the above
order was correct, and acknowledged by the authorities. Re-
ceving no reply to either of his communications, he again
gave to his private secretary the third letter, to be delivered
to the Minister of Mexico, which informed him, that as it ap
peared to be the pleasure of the government not to give him
that satisfaction which he had a right to expect, he should
take the liberty to construe its silence into an acknowledg
ment of the order, and a determination to persist in its" unjust
and unprecedented requisitions. Accordingly, being thus im
pressed, he could not perceive any other alternative than that
he should demand his passport, suspend his negotiations on
the close of that day, and take his departure for the United
States, if he was not, before the setting of the sun, fully and
satisfactorily replied to.
General. Thompson, previous to his knowledge of the exist
ence of the order expelling Americans from the Californias, had

travels itf Mexico! 111
asked the President of the United States for his recall, and in
anticipation of his permission had all his effects packed up and
shipped to Vera Cruz. There was nothing, therefore, to de
tain him, being prepared at any moment to depart in the
diligencia, if the Mexican minister should not give him ample
satisfaction, if the order had been recognised by him, — rescind
the same, — apd make abupdant ipdemnity for all damages
sustained through its means by American citizens.
The General did not receive a reply till after the close of
day. The government evidently became alarmed at the firm
and manly course of the American minister, and at his consist
ency of declaration, having entered his name on the -way-bill
for Vera Cruz on the following morning. His Excellency
Bocanegra, to prevent him from leaving the city, had embar
goed the diligencia. But after the General had retired to bed
on that night, he was waked up to receive a communication
from the minister of foreign relations. This contained an
apology for his not having received a reply from the govern
ment sooner, aud acknowledged, verbatim, the truth of the
order made by the President of Mexico.
But in " acknowledging the corn," as Mr. Randolph said,
they stated in explanation, that the odiouB instrument was not
alone intended for the citizens of the United States ; but was
also designed to embrace the people of all nations ; and that
it was not to be put into effect, excepting against those who
rendered themselves detrimental to the peace of the country,
and the good administration of the government by the Mexi
can authorities ; stating, moreover, that the order had been
revoked. Now, in the name of common sense, if any one can read the
order, how can he say that such a construction, tacitly or im
plied, can be put upon the plain language of the order, as the
explanation and apology assumed.
Our minister, for the sake of preserving the peace and har
mony of the two countries, accepted the explanations, and thus
the affair terminated amicably. My own views on the above
detailed negotiation between the two ministers, as I remarked
also to General Thompson, convinced me in regard to the or
der, that it was penned in a hostile and nefarious spirit, look
ing at the words of it in the most favourable aspect ; and I
feared much that all friendly relations between the United
States and Mexico had ceased, and that the only remedy left
for the redress of grievances, on the part of the Union, was to
chastise her hostile and unkind neighbour into a just and
equitable performance of friendly relationship. The order had
for its character, a malicious spirit against an exclusive and

012 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
peaceful population, who should have demanded the protec
tion of the laws of the couptry for their epterprise apd indus
trious habits. ,
The secredy employed by the iusidious minister of war and
navy, ip issuipg the order to the differept departmepts for its
epforcement, must appear to the minds of all, to have been a
deed of the darkest treachery which the powers of one nation
could have betrayed towards another while in friendly rela
tions. And I am convinced, by long reflection and the accumu
lation of facts, that so wicked, premeditated and wanton an
act, on the part of Mexico, should not have been permitted to
be explained away, without the assurances of an indemnity
for our citizens, for loss and damages, which might have been
sustained by the enforcement of the order.
, I do not express my sentiments with a view of giving ut
terance to any unkind feelings towards General Thompson ;
for that, gentleman must be aware, that his own friendship
and politeness, extended towards me, would be an honourable
barrier against so base a deed. On the contrary, I have the
highest respect for his acknowledged talents, his years, and
long experiense in public life, and the services, during which,
he has rendered his country. Still, I have no doubt, he will
excuse me when I say that, although he had the United States
executive and senate to think with him, I would much rather
he should have demanded his passport instead of receiving the
explanation; and thus, by refusing an apology, and the false
pretensions of the Mexican diplomacy, he would have made
them feel in want of our friendship, and caused them, like
France, to fear offending again.
The American citizens, who had settled in the California!,
were mostly of that harmless of all communities, namely,
farmers. And, by one dash of the pen, a decree went forth
from the national palace, by which they were all, at the same
time, obliged to sell their crops, stocks and lands at a reduced
price, in consequence of the glut of the market. This, per
haps, was tbe design of those in authority, owing to the many
expulsions of the old Spaniards, who, escaping with their
lives, yet lost their property and valuables.
It would seem that the Mexican government, in their ani
mosity (for I can find no other name to apply to it) towards
the American people, take great pleasure in persecuting and
oppressing them whenever an opportunity offers to exhibit so
unfriendly a feeling. I am entirely at a loss to conjeoture the
cause, unless it has its origin in the fact that General Santa
Anna was defeated at San Japinto, apd that his present minis
ter of war and the pavy, whep ip the United States in the

TRAVELS In MESied; US
capacity of Mexican minister, received a horsewhipping' Be?
fore Barnum's hotel in Baltimore. And I would here express1
the opinion, that I know of no power on earth that MexicO
should make her best friend more than the United States':
But as I was about to remark, the disagreeable affair Of the
order was hardly over, before the Attierican minister. obtained
information, through a highly respectable Spanish gentleman,
that in the department of Sonora, of which General Urrea, of
Texian memory, is governor and general, at the town of GUy-
mas, there had been, for some time} two Americans loaded
with chains and confined in prison.
The information reported to the American legation was,
that while the prisoners professed ignorance of having offended
against the laws of Mexico, they had respectfully demanded a,
trial, feeling innocent of any real or UnknoWn allegations J
but then, in every instance, they had failed in Obtaining justice
under, the Mexican laws. They had repeatedly written to the
American minister at that capital, calling Upon him to, aid
them in obtaining their liberty, and redress their grievances.
As the American minister never received their letters, it -was
concluded that they were intercepted. "It was therefore agreed
between the prisoners and the Spanish gentleman, that, while
on a visit to the city of Mexico, having to remain there some
time, they should address their letters to him, and thereby the
legation would become possessed of their appeal. My depar->
ture from the city taking place before any action had been
commenced in favour of the unfortunate prisoners, I never
learned their ultimate fate.
If I am asked — -Who are the Mexicans ? — of What people are
they ? — I Would reply, that they are the descendants of the
Aztec and Tezcuan races, partly mixed With the Spanish
blood ; and the Mexican has no reason to be disparaged hi
being reminded of his ancestry, for an admired historian has
remarked, " enough has been said to show* that the Aztec and
Tezcuan races were advanced in Civilization very far beyond
the wandering tribes of North America. The degree Of civi-1
lization they had reached, as inferred from their political in
stitutions, may be considered, perhaps, not much short of that
ehjoyed by our Saxon ancestors under Alfred; In respect to
the pature of it, they may be better compared With the Egyp
tians ; and the examination of their social relatiops and cul
ture may suggest Still stronger points Of resemblance to that
ancient people."
I have been taught to believe that a. mingling Of the Euro
pean with the Indian blood in North America, and particularly
in my own State of Virginia, Was a. gobd crbs'S Of the human

114 ^ravels in Mexico,
species. For in the Old Dominion there are numerous indivi
duals who pride themselves on their Indian parentage, and
who, for their acquirements and position in the civil and mili
tary history of the country, stand unrivalled by any of their
fellow-citizens. In the primitive history of every natiop, there is men
tion made of their barbarous and superstitious rites in the
worship of their deities. The Mexicans, when the country
was first discovered by the Europeans, had many claims
to the character of a civilized people. And I cannot conceive
why more odium should be attributed to the religious worship
of Aboriginal Americans, who sacrificed human victims at
the shrines of their altars, without the light of truth and re
velation ; while with every denomination, and every nation in
Christendom, the smoke of hecatombs of martyrs has black
ened the heavens, amid the frantic shouts of fiendish priests.
When we contemplate the comparative difference in the ad
vance of civilization of the Christian race, who continually
hold a direct communication with heaven, through the patri
archs and prophets, and lastly, by the presence of the Son of
God liimself, and then draw a retrospect of the Mexican, shut
out from a communion with his Maker, with nothing but the
light of nature to illuminate his benighted -way ; confined on
a narrow strip of land, between two vast oceans, and the ce
remonies of whose faith partake, in some instances, of those
of the Christian Church ; I cannot but admire his majesty, and
consider him a part of the noblest workmanship of the great
Architect of creation.
As an author, whom we have before quoted remarks — " One
may perhaps better understand the anomaly by reflecting on
the condition of some of the most polished countries of Europe
in the sixteenth century, after the establishment of the modern
inquisition ; an institution which yearly destroyed its thou
sands by a death more painful than the Aztec sacrifices ; which
raised the hand of brother against brother, and setting its
burning seal upon the lip, did more to stay the march of im
provement, than any other scheme ever devised by human cun-
pipg. Hnmap sacrifices, however cruel, have nothing in them
degrading to their victim. It may bo rather said to ennoble
him, by devoting him to the gods. Although so terrible to the
Aztecs, it was sometimes voluntarily embraced by them, as
the most glorious death, and one that opened a sure passage
into paradise. The inquisition, on the other hand, branded its
victims with infamy in this world, and consigned them to
everlasting perdition in the next."
I am persuaded in the opinion, that if the present race of

TRAVELS IN MEXICO* 115
Mexicans were taught a just abhorrence of fraud and crime,
so that a committal of such deeds could be reached and pun
ished by the laws of the country ; and if they were instructed
to dread the anger of heaven for such acts of wickedness, his
mildness of disposition, and native sincerity of manners,
would make him one of the most amiable of the human spe
cies. No one can visit Mexico without becoming forcibly im
pressed with the polished politeness and kind demeanour of
the inhabitants, while at the same time they are ever ready
to offer their kind services to forward the intentions of the
traveller. But I would here caution those intending to journey through
that country to beware ; as under the most accomplished de
bonair of manners and offers of friendship the darkest deeds
are concealed. A foreigner cannot be introduced to a Mexican
without having his immediate proffer to be of service to him,
and an inquiry of in what manner his assistance may be re
quired. And again I would say, that from the experience of the toil
some journey, and my intercourse with the people of Mexico
for many months, the stranger should judge well of the indi
vidual in whom he may place confidence.
1 once heard an American citizen express his desire, that the
abrupt, and often overbearing deportment of his fellow-coun
trymen, could be exchanged for the due deference, and agree
able easy politeness of the Mexicans. But as I am not writing
a book upon the manners and customs of my own country, I
shall not express my sentiments on this interesting subject.
The egotism and love of country of the Mexicans is unpa
ralleled. While he thinks his native land the best on the
globe, his opinion of himself does not degenerate ; for he be
lieves that his people are the most learned and pious in the
world ; hence his prejudice to foreigners, and opposition to
improvement. When a- foreigner has embraced all his senti
ments and maxims, and in every thing fashioned himself after
his ways, he will then be tolerated, as all proselytes are by
the opinionated and bigoted, as having been redeemed from
ignorance and superstition.
The Mexicans are a motley race, reflecting a complexion in
proportion with their mixture with the European blood, and
exhibiting, as it were, numberless hues in the same crowd. —
At the city of Mexico, I beheld every imaginable colour of
skin that human beings possess, excepting that of the African ;
for of this latter race I met with none, as negroes are hardly
ever to be seen at any distance from the cpasts ; and also,

116 TrAVels in meXico.
from an early antipathy of the Mexicans to the black man, but
few- have ever been imported into that country.
But to redeem my promise, as made in the second chapter
of this book, I will now attempt to give some reasons for the
great solemnity and sedateness of the Mexican's expression of
countenance. Mr. Prescott remarks that, " In their faltering
steps, and meek and melancholy aspect, we read the sad cha
racteristics of a conquered race."
There is another reason assigned by historians for their gra
vity of aspect, which supposes it to have been imparted by the
loathsome and revolting oceans of human sacrifices so fre
quently presented to the public view. And again, notwith
standing they had obtained the Christian religion, after the
conquest, yet the introduction of the inquisition along with
it, continued to keep among the people the oppression of spirit
and dejection of countenance which has been engrafted upon
posterity. If I should venture to give my own opinion, I would say
that this peculiarity of feature is to be mostly attributed to
the climate ; for in all nations of tropical regions the popula
tion exhibit a languid and grave appearance. And if an artist,
judging from what T haVe seen of painting, attempts, to repre
sent a being oppressed by heat, he delineates very much of the
same expression visible on the countenance of the Mexican. —
A learned philosopher once remarked, that he would never
have confidence in any one who could not blush ; and I am of
the opinion that he would find few in Mexico in whom to
confide.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 11?

CHAPTER X.
Climate of the Valley of Mexico. The Climate of the Republic of
Mexico. Plains without water. Artificial dams. Monopoly of
Agriculture. Interference of the law. Landed estates of Mexico.
Table of population. Wealth of the inhabitants. Majority of
the people in poverty. Different causes. Want of confidence.
Previous to the revolution. The golden age. Embezzlement of
Canalizo. Products of the Mines. Solvency of Mexico. Forced
loans. Anecdote. The people of Mexico easy to govern. A
correct idea of the ministry of Mexico. Captain Cain. Defor
mity in Church as in State. Tho Bishop bribed. Matrimony.
The climate of the valley of Mexico is considered to be the
most delightful and desirable of any known region. The val
ley of Mexico is 7,550 above the level of the sea. The capital
from its elevated position, and its being no more than 190 deg.
north latitude, is never excessively hot in summer ; but to
the contrary, as long residents in that country informed me,
it is agreeably warm — sufficiently so to make vegetation ge
nerate luxuriantly, as I observed it also will ip the winter
months. Yet it cannot be supposed to compare during the
winter months with that state of perfection which the summer
season produces. The nights are cool, sufficiently so to render
the couch pleasant, was it not for the fleas and other insects.
The climate of the republic of Blexico is by no means uni
versal. The plains have a temperature generally of 62 degs.
Fahrenheit. The phenomena of climate that exist in Mexico
are singularly peculiar to that country, not being known to
any other regions of the earth ; for the traveller cannot cross
a mountain, witliout finding its opposite sides varying in tem
perature. This results from the higher elevation of some
plains above others ; and thus it is, that from the minimum of
02 degs., many of the valleys, as likewise the coasts on
either side of the continent, vary in temperature to the max
imum of 120 degs. of heat. Hence it is that the stranger
in Mexico will hear of the tobacco — the sugar — the cotton —
and the cocoa regions.
The best tobacco regions are said to be in Tobasco, and in
the vicinity of the Orizava mountains. The sugar regions are
principally in the valleys south of the city of the Mexico, ad
joining the Popocatepetl mountain, as also in the hot countries
of the Atlantic and Pacific cpasts. Cotton grows to its

118 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
greatest perfection at Paris, ip the department of Sap Louis ;
while cocoa flourishes at Tampico.
The climate varies very much ip regiops adjacept to each
other, aod it often happens that products which are cultivated
op one side of a mountain, canuot come to the same perfection
on the opposite one. Wheat and corn produce admirably ip
apy of those regions, where the land can be irrigated ; and
often much expense is incurred in copductiug the water from
the mountains over the plains. However, in some parts of
the country, on the first elevation from the coast, nature has
most accommodatingly performed the task without the aid of
mountain streams ; as I witnessed on the high lands between
Jalapa and Perote. This economy of nature is owing to the
descent of the clouds in that, as in some other regions, as I
have understood, to the surface, and, as they gently sweep
over the land, the vegetation and the earth absorb the aqueous
vapour contained in them.
On plains through which no streams flow, and the moun
tains fail to supply water, the ingenuity of man has invented
a mode by which the deficiency may be remedied. Where one
plain has an elevation of one portion above the remainder, a
dam will be thrown from one hill to the other, across the un
even surface, and in some instances across the ravines of
mountains. During the three rainy months of the year, these
reservoirs will be filled with water, and thus the farmer can
in any month irrigate his crops, and have Ins land in perpetual
cultivation. However, as such an improvement is costly, and
but few portions of the country afford the facilities, at least
two-thirds of the arable lands of Mexico are barren wastes
that can only be appropriated to the purposes of grazing. And
hence it is that that country has ever been famous for its
abundance of stock, the proprietor of the soil being unable to
derive profits from his estates, otherwise than by herding.
What must ever be a source of regret and oppression to the
people of Mexico, that the government has grasped the mo
nopoly of some articles of agriculture, at the same time they
require its permission to grow their crops, and for this
privilege they have to take a license or pay a bonus. Al
though the invaluable articles of maize, or Indian corn, and
black beans are freely granted to be cultivated any where, yet
by statutes of the land, or by the decrees of the Dictator, the
cultivation of all other crops are prohibited, excepting to par
ticular portions of the country, the farmers of those particular
localities having to pay for the prerogative.
The government of Mexico is the purchaser of all the to
bacco the planter has for market; and only through the

TRAVELS IN MEXICO1. 119
Stancer, an officer of the government, can the article be re
tailed to the people. It cannot be difficult to imagine the up-
happy results of the interference of the law in regulating agri
culture ; for so far from the government acting with disin
terestedness and good faith with the people — like individuals
it seeks first its own emolument, then leaving them to take
care of themselves, it abandons the doctrine of the fundamen
tal principles of social compacts — that the law should have a
singleness of purpose in protecting labour and the rights of
property of its constituents, and not by its acts to trample
upon the one, and speculate upon the other. Such has ever
been the result of legislation in every country, where the
avariciousness of the rulers of the good people has taken the
management of their own, and properly, private affairs out of
their hands.
In Mexico, by the restrictions imposed upon agriculture, the
monopoly of the government has beggared thousands, who are
obliged to indulge in their favourite propensity of theft and
highway robbery — for the proprietor of the soil has not the
want of their labour, and the factories have no employment
for them.
One other remark I wish to make before closing my com
ments on this head. Out of a population of about seven mil
lions of souls, it is believed by many intelligent gentlemen
with whom I conversed, that less than five hundred thousand
people are the owners of all the landed estates in Mexico ;
and the melancholy fact as presented by the face of the coun
try is, that the unequal division of property among the inha
bitants must unhappily be as lasting as it is a country. In
consequence of its not raining for nine months in the twelve,
and there being but few streams flowing from the mountains
to the ocean, a small tract of land, of a hundred or a thou
sand acres, would be worthless to the possessor, unless it
was located on one of the comparatively few lakes and rivers.
The man of moderate circumstances, separate from those
choice spots of land, is effectually debarred from desiring or
purchasing on the plains generally. For, in the first place, a
small tract would be worthless to him — and in the next, his
inability to buy an extent of territory equivalent in dimensions
to any of the counties of our States, renders it impossible for
any but the affluent in circumstances to enjoy landed property.
In most places lands skirting the water cannot be bought, for
if offered for sale, the extensive proprietor would be parting
with the privilege of irrigation, which alone rendered the whole
of any value.
The reader will readily imagine, in the heterogeneous mass

12Q' TRAYELB IN MEXICO.
of the population of Mexico, the vast disproportion of
lazarones apd yagrants, wjip drag out a wretched aud. raiser-?
able existence, houseless, penniless and friendless, apd who,
when dead, unslirouded ajid uncofflned, are thrown into their
shallow home, as if their mother earth spurned them from her
bosom, tp rot as beasts of the field.
The cepsus pf the population of Mexico, it is said, cap pot
be accurately taken. From the various estimates made by
those having the best opportunities of knowing, a table was
furnished me by a gentleman who, from his long residence in
the country, and by some attention paid to the subject, may
be relief on as, measurably correct.
Table of the Population.
Indians,  4,500,000
Other Castes, .. ., .. .. 3,000,000
Negroes, ,. .. .. .. 6,000
Total,  7,506,000
From the consideration of the climate, agricultural pursuits,
and the population of Mexico, it may not here be improper to
devote a few thoughts upon the wealth of its inhabitants and
its resources.
As for the wealth of the Mexicans, as already remarked, the
great majority of them are in abject poverty, and subsist only
by begging, or by their daily labour.
Four of the seven millions of inhabitants are Indians, and
with very few exceptions they are not owners of property.
The rich people of Mexico are very wealthy, being the pro
prietors of the soil, and the holders of the real estates in towns.
Before the revolution, as now, agreeable to Spanish customs,
money was hoarded by the rich in their houses, and never
loaned upon interest — and not unfrequently do they run their
gold and silver into bars and secrete them at their haciendas
or palaces in town.
Ap instance is related that, during the revolution, the re
nowned Mina visited the hacienda of Jaral, who being in
formed that the Conde had secreted his money at that farm,
ordered a search, which resulted in the soldiers finding two
hundred thousand dollars in actual cash. This practice of
burying money has resulted in the loss of millions to circula
tion — for in Mexico, owing to the total want of confidence in
the nearest relatives, the father, or the brother often dies with
out communicating to survivors the place of the secret deposit
of their hidden treasure.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. Ut
I have heard it remarked that the earth of Mexico contained
coin and bars of precious metals, equivalent in amount to the
proceeds of all the mines for one year. Hence it is that the
Spaniards of Vera Cruz, during' the first revolution, conceiving
of no other mode of preserving their' valuables, buried their
money at Mango de Clavo, which ultimately resulted in Santa
Anna's securing eight thousand doubloons, and the shameful
incarceration of six deluded men in a dungeon.
Previous to the revolution, when the country was under the
more happy management of the old Spaniards, so considerable
was the amount of bullion in Mexico, that some of the wealthy
would gratify their pride, when going to celebrate the baptism
of their children, in laying bars of gold and silver in a con
tinued row from their houses to the very altar of the church,
and upon the precious metals the holy priest would walk to
the sanctuary to perform the baptismal services.
But the golden age of those days has passed away with the
Mexicans, by the too often occurrence of revolutions, and the
crippled commerce of their country ; as also by the many pro
fitable mines having gone out of their possession into that of
English companies ; as well as by the neglect of the working
of others. Yet the private fortunes of some individuals are
considerable ; for I was assured that the Condesa de la Cortena,
a rich widow, is in the constant habit of making a regular
donation to her son of five thousand dollars monthly ; and of
her fourteen agents, one of them collects and pays her eighty
thousand dollars quarterly.
So repeatedly did I hear, during my stay in Mexico, of ft
piece of slander, if slander it is, that I have no hesitation iri
giving it publicity. It is said that General Canalizo, who
was appointed Provisional Dictator by Santa Anna, in two
months after he went into power, purchased and paid for an
estate worth two hundred thousand dollars ; and that previous
to his appointment he was not worth one half that sum. It is
proverbial in Mexico, that to be a cabinet officer is to make
a fortune. The revolution of Mexico has yet to result in its beneficial
effects to its people, for the mining interest has declined in the
general wreck and ruin of the country. A table of the pro
ducts Of all the mines in the several departments, is here Sub
joined. It is a quotation from a new journal issued while I
was in Mexico, in opposition to the present system of govern*
ment.

J22 TRAVELS IN MEXICO,

Product of the Mines.
Mexico,  2,004,988
Zacatecas, . . . . .. .. 5,028,655
Guanajuato,  3,476,820
Duraugo,  876,287
Guadalajara, .,  908,052
Chihuahua,  568,056
Total,  Dollars. 13,979,714
As for the solvepcy of the Mexican government, the British
claims alone, without regard to any other liabilities, amount,
it is said, to ninety millions of dollars. The government,
under its accustomed bad management, has made forced loans
from private individuals to pay the interest and instalments of
debts ; and notwithstanding this has so often been resorted to,
yet the prodigality and individual grasping of the rulers,
checks any improvement in the financial condition of the
country. Forced loans are made regardless of all remonstrance, and
very naturally exasperated the minds of the public against the
nation, for whose beneflt the payment is to be made, instead of
the tyrants who impose the necessity of it. An anecdote is
related, that when Santa Anna was making up the first pay
ment of the American indemnity, among other citizens whom
he sent for, to levy his contributions upon, was one Senor Don
Luis Alimeno, who had formerly been a foreign minister.
Upon the arrival of this citizen, he was required to subscribe
a liberal share of the idemnity; but he replied to the Dictator,
that he had no money. The despot said, "put down the
citizen's wife for ten thousand dollars ; she is worth the pro
perty." The people of Mexico are certainly the easiest in the world
to govern, or else they would not suffer themselves to be op
pressed in so grievous a manner by their government. Santa
Anna heing informed that the issue of copper coin was too
abundant, hurled forth a decree, calling into the mints
all of that currency. The holders, without delay, complied
with the order, and received in return, not the cash, but go
vernment scrip. Although the copper coin in the hands of the
people amounted to two millions of dollars, yet the holders of
the scrip have not, nor can any one tell when they will receive
the just amounts of their funds.
To give a correct idea as to how the government of Mexico

Travels in mexicO." Iz3
pays the honourable demands against it, 1 will relate a case,
the claimant in which, I was acquainted with, and from whom
I had, from day to day, a history of the transactions as they
happened. While in the city, there arrived an Irish gentleman,
a Captain Coin, from the city of Dublin. He had, some two
or three years previous, sold to the government of Mexico a
steamer called the city of Dublin, for which he never received
the pay agreeable to contract ; consequently, he was under
the necessity of visiting Mexico to recover the debt. On his
arrival at Vera Cruz, he visited Santa Anna, who was then at
Mango de Clavo, and obtained an order from him on Senor
Don Trigueros, the Minister of Finance, payable on sight to
Captain Coin for the steamer. On the Captain's presenting
the order to the honourable minister, he was informed by him
that there was no money in the treasury ; but that he would
give him on his own account, fifty thousand dollars for his claim
of sixty thousand eight hundred and fifty. Captain Coin insisted
on the payment of the full amount, and proposed to accept an
order on the collector of the customs at Vera Cruz for the sum.
This was refused, and the Captain was obliged to suffer him
self to be shaved by the minister of the treasury, or else wait
for his money an interminable length of time.
There are things of deformity in the church, as well as the
state in this country ; carried on by bribery and corruption.
And here I would take occasion to remark, that it has not been
my design to huut up matter far fetched aud unauthenticated,
for the purpose of exasperating the public mind against a na-
tion already rendered sufflcieutly odious, alike for the want of
houour, and the perpetration of barbarous cruelties. My only
intention is, to give a few prominent features of the daily prac
tices of those in high as well as low places ; so that my readers
may have some data by which to judge of the moral and po
litical character of the Mexican people. Such an independent
course, in my opinion, should be pursued by the journalist re
gardless of criticism or the hope of Battery. Nothing I would
so much regret, knowing as I do the faithlessness and disho
nour of the Mexicans, as to delude a seeker for information in
regard to the true character of a people, whose country perhaps
it may be his wish to visit or reside in. I shall, therefore, not
attempt to seek the praise or enconiums of any, by vouching
for the virtue of the few, hard to find, or dread the contradic
tions and anathemas of those who have never had the experi
ence of travel, or who may otherwise be lucratively interested.
I therefore say, that there are Mammon discrepancies, in
church is well as in state, emanating from the very throne

jI8f TRAVELS IN MEXICO^
of t^eir earthly divinity. The British government having peg-
jeeted tp; insert ap, article in their treaty with Mexico, requir
ing of that gpv'erppiept to pake yalid the marriages of British
nrotestapte performed ip that couptey ; and also, to give power
to her copsujs to administer the matrimonial ceremony, — Eng
lishmen »re subject to the ipeopvepience and expense of visit
ing the city of Kfpxioo, and there by bribery to obtain the nup
tial tie of the Archbishop ; the marriage being null and avoid
otherwise, bpth by the religious canons and the laws of the
ifjiid, Of what avail are the high fiats of heaven, or the posi-
tiye statute^ of a country, if money is to set aside the one,
apd. coyer the other ? Verily, the god of Mammon is supreme
pver heaven and earth' — the Dictator, too, perhaps. An in-
ptjapce qf the $hove described state of things came under my
pwr) knpwledge ; as the parties 1 became acquainted with, apd
?, liappy couple they were ; where it cost the geutlemap two
hpusand dollars to illegally marry his wife.

TRAVELS IN MEXtcb.

CHAPTER XI.

Gratitude to T. Ducoine. Left the city of Mexioo the 4th January.
A Mexican passenger. Attempted conversation. Chocolate.
Arrangements. My first day's journey. Extensive plain. Moutt
tain sdenery. Volcanic eruptions. Valleys divested of forest-
The soil generally shallow. The rocks. Haciendas. Stone walls.
OrgOno hedge! Fields without enclosure. The manure Of a haol-1
ehda. Splendid Scenery. No imprbved roads north. Natural
ways. Mljico. Dined at Cula. Description of Dinner, Ohille.
My flrBt night's lodging. When day dawned. Table lan^
Arroyd Zareo. The mother of the driver. Fast driving. Cross*
bar broke. Ladrones. San Juan del Rio. Conversation and
smoking of two Mexicans. View of Gueretero. Aqueduct. A
priest and and the revolution. A walk at night. Plaza lights.
Lost. Guitar. Moonlight. Starting of the diligence. Ladrones.
Escape. Celaye. Monument. Mexicans dressed as Indians. Tile,
Pope and the Catholic religion. Three Spaniards of old Sjtain.
Language. Politeness. Landlord. Cotton goods. Third day's
travel. Guanajuato. Conversation and entertainment. De
parture from Guanajuato. Mines of Guanajuato. Magnificent
present. Detection of fraud in the Mint; Level country. Silottj
Leon. Arrival at Lagos. Lake region; Loss of sleep, Settle-!
ments with my Mexican friend. Waked up alone; Chocolate.
Letter of introduction. My difficulty. Fruitless efforts to bd
understood. Fortunate arrival of a Mexican. Attention of the
inhabitants. Doctor Tesus Anaya. Interpreter. A large party
of travellers. Tyler's message to Congress. Manner of warfare
upon Mexico. No want of water at Lagos. Vegetables and
fruits. Bathing. Walk. Paintings of the houses. Amerlcail
negro. Practice of medicine^ iu Mexico. Angel Gabriel. BlmOh's
wounds. The evening of the second da^. Arrival of the' dili
gencia. An American passenger. Proposed journey*
I shall fever feel grateful to Mr. Theodore Ducoine^ a native!
of Philadelphia, of the largest American hoUsfe ih the City of
Mexico, for the assistance he rendered me ih forWarding toy
departure from the capitol ; which took plaqe1 on the night of
the 8th of January ; a day memorable in the history Of my
own country.
I left the city of Mexico in the diligencia fct Lagos, a dis
tance Of four days' and nights' travel. When 1 WaS awakened
to take my seat, I found that there was one other passenger,
end that the ipdividual I was destined to travel with, wai ft
Mexican, and had all the appearimce of ft gentleman.

126 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Havipg takep our seats, the Mexicap saluted me by sayiug,
" Bueno notche Senor," Good night, Sir, — to which I responded,
" Nil gratias Senor," I thank you, Sir; by which I presume
my fellow passenger very naturally concluded, from my
answering him so readily, that, although a foreigner, I was
familiar with the Spanish tongue. No sooner had we passed
over the pavement of the city, than he began a conversation
with me in his own language, to which I was obliged repeat
edly to reply, " No intendi, Senor, I do not understand, Sir ;
for I had not been long enough in the country to have studied
the Spanish ; and I could not consequently undertake a con
versation in that language. However, he seemed to persist in
his loquaciousness, while the only defence I had, was to keep
up a volley of English, which, for short periods, would attract
the attention of the Mexican, as he did not understand a word
I said. Having become fatigued in attempting to render himself
agreeable to me by talking Spanish, he at length in a most in
quiring manner said — " Parlez vous Franqais, Monsieur 9"
" No, Senor," which effectually silenced my talkative compa
nion, who, apparently in despair, or disgust perhaps, wrapped
himself up in his cloak, and my following Ins example, we
thus, with our mutual thoughts locked up in our minds, played
the dummy to each other until 10 o'clock the next morning —
that proving to be the time of taking our chocolate.
After taking some refreshment, the diligencia being ready
for its departure, I offered the lady of the house some money
for my repast — but she refused to take it, pointing to my Mex
ican friend, to whom I shook my head, to intimate that he
was not to pay for me ; at the same time offering him money.
This he refused, repeating often " Lagos," from which I in
ferred that he would settle my bills as far as that place, as I
was unacquainted with the language of the country. Having
no objections to such an arragement, I also said Lagos,
accompanying my repetition of the name by placing one dollar
upon another, to inform him that I would settle with him at
Lagos. Thus we travelled on with this understanding, which
we amicably arranged at the end of our journey.
My first day's journey to Lagos was more interesting to me
than I had imagined it would be, as the face of the country
presented a different aspect to that which I had already seen.
Between Vera Cruz and the city of Mexico, the mountains all
run parallel with the Gulf, north and south. But as I had left
the valley of Mexico, I found myself before the break of day
on an extensive plain, shut up on all sides by lofty mountains,
Whjch lopked as }f they would alike defy man or beast to pass

TRAVEtS ifN MEXICO^ ^S?
their steep and rocky heights. Although these mountains pre
sented a view, as if they were natural fortresses to imprison
all within them, yet at some depression, or as it were gate
way, they would offer egress for the traveller, and when
passed would only present to the beholder the same plain,
surrounded on all sides like a vast amphitheatre of mountain
scenery. The mountains in Mexico present an entire different appear
ance from any other in North America ; for with very little
exception they are uncovered with forest, and mostly without
verdure of any kind ; saving the grey and green moss. The
mountains in resemblance looked more like spued spiral earth
of a frosty morning, but upon a more gigantic scale, than any
other familiar object known to my mind ; having innumerable
saw-tooth points and forms of peaks in every zig-zag direc
tion. Indeed, such is the origin of their creation; for not by
cold had they been spouted upwards, but by fire ; and as the
beholder casts his eyes up the giddy heights, and imagines the
time when those volcanic eruptions were in existence, they
are almost deluded, and it seems as if nature is yet in ebul
lition, fearfully shooting porphyritic rock high up to the
heavens. All the valleys surrounded by the mountains as above
described, from being so thoroughly divested of forest
growth, would appear, but that some of them are spotted
with towns and castles of haciendas, to be vast prairies.
The plains are in fact the table lands proper, while the
chains of mountains are the Cordilleras of Mexico. The
plains have a fertile soil, but the Spaniards have applied the
axe to every thing like brush-wood and forest trees. But
although the soil is rich, it is most commonly of a blackish
complexion, when not of a gravelly limestone grey appearance.
It is generally shallow, and I could observe from the washed
gullies that it was not more than from six to twenty-four
inches in depth ; and it was not unfrequently the case that
the rock protruded near the surface of the earth, and that
where the land was the least rolling, it had been washed
away, and left » barren level rock for many miles in extent.
For those whose misfortune has never obliged them to travel
upon a plain of solid rock, it is not easy to imagine its disa-
greeableness ; the clatter of the unshod hoofs of the little ani
mals, the lofty bounces and downward plunges of the diligen
cia, will never be forgotten by myself. The rock is not
always of a solid body, for some plains have an appearance of
the bed of a river, coveted by quartz stone, such as is fouud at
the bottom of most rivers in the United States, (and which is

J 28 jTRAVflLB IN MEXICO.
used for the paving of streets), and indeed must have beep
the beds of immense lakes in by-gone times.
The lands, as before remarked, whether poor or rich, would
produce admirably, -which must be attributed to the climate,
that is where they are capable of being irrigated. Some of the
plains would be divided into two or more haciendas, the
larger one of which would be hemmed in by a stone wall of
miles jn extent — while occasionally a smaller farm might be
met with, hedged in by the evergreen orgono, a variety of the
gpecies of prickly pear, and the maguey, which would be
growing so thick upon the sides of ditches as to effectually ob
struct the passage of any apimal likely to be detrimental to
crops, I could uot altogether discover the utility of the stone
fences, which in most instances must have cost years of labour,
and much money, unless they were designed for permanent
landmarks, or costly ornaments, for they enclosed mostly land
that never tyad been, and never could be cultivated.
Yet, on the contrary, it was not uncommon to see hundreds
of acres of land growing in corn and wheat, having not a
vestjge of inclosure around them. Such fields are watched by
the farmers to prevent the stock from feeding upon the crops j
and the Arieros take good care that their horses and mules dp
not diverge from the highway upon the farms. It was won
derful to see the little attention required to prevent the anU
mals from going astray, and nipping down the tempting greep
com; exhibiting the fact that the brute creation can be
taught honesty — why not the Mexicans ? One thing I must
pot forget to mention, which must excite the contempt of the
American agriculturist — the manure of a hacienda is never
spread over the land, but in every instance is thrown out of
the way in heaps, and when the winds and sun have suffici
ently dried it, it is set on fire and suffered to consume. A
gentleman once told me that he had seen a pile on fire for
twplve months, the conflagration being very slow.
The scenes as presented in the valleys are beautiful beyond
description. The lava heights of those deep blue and brown
peaked mountains, surrounding me on all sides, mantled by
the azure sky, presented a majestic appearance, while the ex
tended plains bepeath wore a pleasing aspeot. In such a
view all my apprehensions of ladrpnes were forgotten, and
the only thing which would occasionally recall me to the
painful consciousness of piy journey, was the violent concus
sion of the wheels of the dilicencia against rocks, and a
plunge in and over some deep furrow, worn perhaps by the
attrition of ages, of animal's hoofs ip the fields. There are po
improved roads north of the city of Mexico, excepting just at

TRAVELS IN MEXICO* 1J9
the entrance of some of the larger towns'. The whole plains
are crossed and recrossed by thousands of pftthsj ' called
natural ways, those of which are travelled by vehicles are
such 6s have been most frequently beaten dbWn, and Are
therefore the smoother and firmer.
On my first day's journey, I passed the town of Mejico, a
place of not much importance, and fast tumbling' to decay.
HoWever, a considerable garrison of soldiers' was stationed
there. We arrived at Cula about three O'clock^ where my
Mexican friend gave me to understand, much to my jdy> that
we were to dine ; for after a night's travel, I had subsisted all
of that day upon nothing but a cup of chocolate. Dinher
being ready, I sat down to a meal the like of Which I had nej
ver before seen, for it was entirely Mexican, and not like the
Casa de la Diligencia hotels kept between Vera Cruz and the
capital, Which were conducted by French landlords, the diet
therefore partaking of both French and Mexican variety.
Boiled rice was first served upf which being removed a stew
was then introduced — of what kind Of meat it was composed
I was at a loss first to conjecture, but as my appetite had be-1
come in some degree satisfied, it partook more of the flavour
of tho goat than of mutton. There Was also ft bowl of chil i
on the table, which my friend intimated to me not to touch-
but I had no idea of letting an opportunity slip of tasting
every food used by the Mexicans ; so I helped myself to a
couple of spoonsfull of the stewed red pepper, and having
walloped a piece of my meat in the chili, with the hope of
taking the goat flavour from it, I then applied it to my hiouth.
But a hard time I had of it, for my tongue felt as if it had
been seared by a red hot iron, yet I continued to nibble and
turn over the sauced meat from side to side, with the hopes of
finally conquering the fiery portion, and of tnaking a quick
swallow of it ; as the tears trickled down my cheeks the diet
refused to go to my stomach, and fell back again into my plate.
My friend, convulsed with laughter, held his hand between
myself and the vessel of water, and shouted — bina ! bina !
Not understanding what he meant, I began to think that he
intended to insult me, by eating of what he intended to be a
private dish ; but I was not kept long in suspense, for a bottle
of claret wine was introduced, and a Mexican girl popping
the cork out in no time, filled a large glass and offered it to
me to drink ; and as the astringent draught passed down my
throat, I not only thought that it was the best wine I had
ever drank, but felt as if a brand had been snatched from the
eternal burning. I could eat no more, although I had a better
F 5

130 TRAVELS IN MEXICO;
appetite than when I first began ; and taking a glass of wine
I left the table, leavipgmy friepd in full possessiou apd enjoy
ment of his chili sauce.
My first night's lodging was in the castle of a hacienda, the
name of which has escaped me now ; and having there enjoy
ed my meal without the use of chili, I slept until two o'clock
when the diligencia again commenced its journey. One thing
I observed, and it is to be admired, that Santa Anna had not
only, for the good order and government of his people, gar
risoned with soldiers all the towns through which I passed,
but the haciendas also, which was designed to keep his fickle
fellow-citizens from rebellion, and to hold in awe the maraud
ing banditti who infest the highways.
When day dawned I still found myself upon the same table
land, and surrounded by the same mountain scenery as on the
day previous. The plain of Gueretaro, over which I had that
day to travel, was greater in circumference than either of the
valleys I had left behind me, and possessed a more even surface,
and generally better looking soil ; yet there was less cultivation
as I did not once see water until I arrived at Arroyo Zarco,
where myself and friend sat down to a repast, which, whe
ther denominated a breakfast or dinner, I cannot tell, as it was
then past the meridian. However, I was more particular than
on the day before, and, having better fare, I indulged freely
upon boiled rice, broth, stews, tortillas, and frijoles, while my
friend sharpened his appetite by mixing chili sauce with every
thing he ate. Arroyo Zarco was of less elevation than any of
the valleys I had passed, and yielded an abundance of delicious
fruit ; and there, for the first time, I partook of several lemons,
which were sweeter than any orange I had ever before tasted.
Previous to our leaving Arroyo Zarco, the mother of the
driver of the diligencia took a most affectionate leave of her
son ; and, while she embraced him, she implored all the saints
to protect him harmless from the ladrones. All being seated,
the driver cracked the whip, and his waiters letting go the
lassos, with whoops and shrill whistles, the animals set off
with furious speed, seeming as if they would break their necks,
or else endeavour to break those of whom they were drawing.
Our driver did not, for hill or gully, slacken his speed ; but,
Phaeton like, he hurled on, more regardless of consequences
than any other Mexican driver I had travelled with. His
animals at length, in an exhausted condition, arrived at the
rancho, where tliere was to be a change, and from the severe
jolting I had received during the last ten miles, I determined
to get out of the diligencia to relieve my limbs ; my Mexican
friend followed my example. When I hud descended, I dis-

travels' in Mexico: 331
covered the driver exerting an unusual haste to put into gear
the second team, and I noticed that he often raised his head,
and cast a lingering look to the rear as if expecting the ap
proach of some one.
The team being harnessed, the driver asked us to take our
seats, and, with all the usual noise on such occasions, the
animals, on the onset, plunged so vigorously forward that,
without having moved the diligencia but a few feet, the cross
bar in front of the tongue snapped in twain, by which acci
dent, not being furnished with another, we were subject to a
delay until the broken bar was repaired.
1 took this opportunity of descending to the ground, and the
first thing that attracted my attention was the driver looking
to tho rear as before ; I determined also to keep my eyes turn
ed in that direction. It was not long before I espied six
men, well mounted, making for us with full speed. My
friend shook his head, and the driver went sluggishly to work
to mend the cross-bar. Three of the men dismounted close
by; the other three rode directly up to us, one of them stop
ping close by my side.
It was not difficult for me to understand who these men
were, and I was not unprepared to meet the emergency ; for
in each of my breeches pockets was a six-barrel pistol, and to
my side a good Bowie knife. I kept my hands upon my pis
tols, determined not to commence self-defence too soon, but
with a watchful eye take advantage of the first move of the
ladrones. The chief, as I presumed him to be, of this banditti,
commenced a conversation with my friend, while the remain
ing five had, in the mean time, surrounded myself. The con
versation, I could discover, was all appertaining to me, and
while thus in suspense I resolved to disencumber myself from
my guard, and accordingly stepped forward from them ; but
they followed, and my friend shook his head at me. The
driver had for some time finished his repairs, and was waiting
the issue of what might happen. They returned, and myself
and friend again took our seats, and the diligencia went
ahead. When he arrived at Gueretaro the Mexican gentleman
informed me, through an American we met there, that what
had prevented our being plundered was, that he assured the
ladrones that we had no money, more than would pay our ex
penses to Lagos, and that as I was a foreigner, and had two
six-barrel pistols, they would have to hazard too much for the
little they would gain.
In the evening we passed San Juan del Rio, where our com
pany was increased by another Mexican taking passage with
us. Our new companion was of genteel appearance, and I

ffS£ TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
felt niyself sufficiently entertained for the balapqe of the
Journey to Queretaro, by listening to the discourse of the two
countrymen, and the continued exchange of politeness between
them ; first one and then the other pulling out their little
bundles of oigaritoa, and circling the smoke through their
nostrils ) and at times so voluminous were the clouds, that the
diligencia reminded me of ap old Virginia smoke-house in the
pork season.
By the setting of the gun we arrived ip view of Gueretaro, a
beautiful towp, situated ip a ravine pear a mopptaip, Tlie
valley of Gueretaro was what the Mexicans called a hot counr
try, and it was therefore with much delight that I beheld
there the orange, and other fruit-trees, in bearing, The city
of Gueretaro contains about ten thousand inhabitants, and is
one of the best improved places I saw in the Republic. The
well-finished aqueduct from the mountain to the city is sup
ported on arches, and painted red ; and as it stretches over
the green valley it has an elegant appearance, Gueretaro is a
cotton-manufacturipg city. Ope of the factories is owped by
a Mr. M'Cormick, an enterprising American geptlepiap.
Gueretaro is famed for its revolutionary efforts : it is related
that the revolution commenced at that place by a conspiracy
formed by a priest ; but a few days before it was to have beep
consummated one of the party, who was possessed of the
secret, having been arrested for a crime for which he was to
suffer death, foil upon his kness before the prefect, and made
declaration that if the judge would spare his life he would
divulge the secrets of a conspiracy, of which he was an ac*-
complice, which confession would save the Spaniards from
otherwise inevitable destruction.
The prefect, having consented to the reprieve of the criminal
upop these conditions, was informed by him of the insurrec
tionary d>igns of the Mexicans of that city. But tlie priest
having in time the exposure of the plot communicated to him,
hastily summoned all the bell-ringers of the city at his house,
where he invited them to drink wine. The men having be
come intoxicated, he then directed them to go to their churches,
and ring all the bells, and proclaim revolution and death to the
Spaniards. The stratagem succeeded, and before sun-set on
that day, all the Spaniards, who had not secreted themselves,
were barbarously slaughtered, and the warrior-priest pro
claimed general of the rebellious forces.
After myself and friend had taken some refreshment, he in
vited me to take a walk, and although it was night, we went
over a good part of the town. The most of the people whom
we met were either soldiers or priests. The plaza was an ip«

TRAVELS IN MEXICO* }33
teresting scene ; at least an hundred torches were blazing at
Once, sending up their light ; while some of the people were
retailing their goods, Beated under their expansive parasols,
other buyers and sellers would be seen standing in groups
around piles of fruits, as the musical rippling of the water,
spouting high in the air from the fountains around the plaza,
glanced back the beacon lights. Having been satisfied with
our stroll, we attempted to find our way back to the Casa de
la Diligencia, but failed; and, after following my friend
through several streets without success, we again returned to
the plaza, where he inquired for the direction, by which we
reached our hotel;
On arriving at our room my friend appeared to be in ec
stasies at hearing a guitar played in the house, and he did not
seem contented until he had obtained the loan of it, and the
instrument was being strummed upon by his pwn fingers. He
was an excellent performer, and, whether it was from the
music of the guitar and his voice, or in consequence of my
fatigue, I fell asleep, and did not awaken until the diligencia
was ready to depart, between two and three o'clock in the
morning. No other seats were taken besides those of myself and my
friend to my right hand. At that still hour of the night, when
nothing could be seen by the bright moonlight but the heavy
walls of the houses, it did appear, when the diligencia started,
by the usual shouts of the drivers, and the thundering noise of
the wheels over the pavements, that soldiers and citizens must
have been waked from their slumbers.
Onward we hurled for about three squares, when we made
a sudden turn round a corner, at which I perceived men
dressed in sera pes, stationed along the sidewalk of the street;
and as the driver passed each one he was commandingly
hailed. He did not heed them however, and cracking his
¦whip urged the speed of the animals ; but it seemed that the
last man of the party did not intend that the driver should
escapejiim, for he raised and pointed a carbine of some sort,
vociferously calling to the covhe, driver; the poor man was
obliged to draw in his reins, and, as six individuals were ap
proaching, the head of the party had the temerity to put his
foot on the step of the diligencia. While in the act of thrust
ing his head through the window, I thought of my six barrels,
and as the ladrone showed his face, it was at the muzzle of
my pistol, which he had no sooner Seen than he stepped back
and Inquired if that was the Mexico diligencia? and the
driver answering him that it Was the Guanajuato, we were
permitted to go on. For the remainder of that night) With

\3i 5RAVEIS IN MEXICO?
apprehensions of ladrones, I rode with my hands on my
pistols, for I felt determined to fight, no sooner than I should
hear the dreadful command of " boca baje," as it is called in
Mexico. During that day's travel we passed the town of Calaya, a
beautiful and well-improved place. The public houses were
large, and built of hammered stone. I observed a handsome
monument, surmounted with the Goddess of Liberty, ¦which
would reflect credit upon the artist. It seemed, from the
crowds of people I saw in the streets and plaza, that it was a
feast-day at Calaya, and as I left the city I was convinced of
the fact ; for, as the diligencia passed over the bridge near
the town, I discovered a large body of Mexicans, dressed as
Indians, dancing before a saint, on an alter thickly adorned with
flowers, and I had an opportunity of witnessing a ceremony of
Indian rites as incorporated in the Roman Catholic religion of
Mexico. I was impressed with the opinion that if Saint
Paul could have beheld the barbarous show, he would have
blushed for the name of the Christian religion : and I am
astonished that in this enlightened day of the church, pious
priests do not petition the Pope to purge the Catholic religion
in Mexico of heathen and heretical doctrines and festivities.
At Calaya, myself and friend had added to our company
three Spaniards of old Spain, who were most gentlemanly in
their manners. Understanding that I neither spoke Spanish
nor French, they used every effort to render themselves agree
able to me — and I would remark that, although individuals
may not understand each other's tongue, yet the language of
politeness is the same all over the world, and the numberless
civilities that may be extended from one to another, are very
congenial to the feelings of both.
Our first stage was from Calaya to Salamanca, where we
took refreshments, my Spanish friends vieing with one an
other in attending to my wants. Salamanca is a manufac
turing town, their cotton mills being propelled by animal
power. The landlord of the Casa de la Diligencia amused
me much by the antics he played with a piece of cotton
cloth ; he came running into the presence of the passengers
with it, and, while my Mexican and Spanish friends 'were
crowding around him to get a look at the cloth, he shoved
them all aside, and with a triumphant air threw an end of
the cotton goods on my knee, with the air of a factor or
merchant. I examined the goods, and then looking the land
lord in the face said, bueno, (good,) at which the old man
clapped his hands, and patted my shoulders with rejoicing,
until I was tired of it. However I felt desirous of knowing

TRAVELS IN MEXICO/ 133
what such cotton cloth would bring at the factory, and I said
to mine host, quantum, (how much;) he replied, trece rial,
(thirty-seven and a half cents ;) and I am confident that such
goods could be imported into Mexico and retailed there at
twelve and a half cents. So much for protection ; and this
too in a country every foot of "which could grow cotton.
From Salamanca I passed Yrapoato, a town that excels the
former in external appearance. My third day's travel was
rendered more agreeable to me by the better condition of the
ways, and the addition of companions. Not long after the
hour of night, by the assistance of a torch-light, held by the
waiter of the driver, the diligencia descended a long and
steep hill, and having reached the bottom of a deep ravine,
¦was brought to a halt before cross-bars that stopped the high
way. These having been removed by a custom-house officer,
we were permitted to pass up a long and toilsome gorge in
the mountain, on the left hand side of which was a continued
row of large buildings, haciendas beneficio mineral, (mineral
factories,) for the grinding and smelting of silver and gold
ores. In about an hour we were at the town of Guanajuato,
which, although a place of much importance in Mexico, and
containing a large population, I did not get a satisfactory
view of, owing to the darkness of the night.
Dinner being over, for by that time I had learned that pas
sengers on that route did not dine until night, my young
Mexican friend, who had been remarkably polite and atten
tive to me during all of our journey, drew on his cloak, and
pointing to my own for me to do likewise, he touched me on
the shoulder as a sign to follow him. Without knowing what
he intended I readily obeyed, and shortly afterwards we had
entered the street, and were crossing the plaza. My compa
nion in a gay manner said, " Bueno notche," " Adios," which
I repeated after him, for in that manner he had diligently em
ployed himself in endeavouring, during all our journey, to
teach me the Spanish language ; but, having called over the
above words, he quickened his step, and leaving the plaza we
entered a dark street. I must confess I felt confounded, in
trying to understand what object he had in bringing me into
a street which was totally unilluminated, at that hour of the
night, for the words I had as customary repeated after him,
meant " good night," " adieu." I therefore thought it most
singular that my Mexican friend should have taken me into
the dark to take leave of me ; unless there was some unknown
mystery to accompany it, and I kept myself prepared to meet
the worst.
Our direction was a crooked one, for we had already turned

336 TRAVELS IN MEXICO,
Bevefal corners, It was not long, however, before I Was
somewhat relieved of my apprehensions) by his saying again,
for me to repeat, the words, •' Senor, Senorita, Senores" — the
word SePonta he caused me to repeat three times over, and
then knocked loudly at a great door of a house before which
we were standing. In about ten minutes' time a light was
held out of an upper window, to the great joy of my friend,
who exhibited much impatience j the light descended to the
inner court, and a door large enough for a fortress was opened.
I followed the young Mexican up a large flight of stone steps
upon the corridor, from which we were conducted by a ser
vant into a large and well-furnished drawing-room, and hav
ing seated ourselves ray companion appeared delighted, and
pointed to the elegantly polished, marble-coloured, painted
floor) the silver chandelier and candlesticks, tbe silver orna-
namented chairs, the piano and guitar.
It was not long before the climax of his pleasure was com
plete, by the entering of a most graceful and lovely young
lady. Upon her appearance we rose from our seats, and as
she gently paused in the centre of the room my friend intro
duced me to her ; what he said I know not, but I found use
for the lessons I had received in the streets, and at the door,
by saying, " Bueno notche, Senorita."
After some conversation had passed, my friend turned to
pie, and in English, which I had taught him, inquiringly said,
" Good?" at which I gave him to understand, " Esta bueno,"
(very good.) The young lady seemed pleased with the society
of her friend, but I often detected her curiously eyeing my
own features and person ; and from the gestures and decla
mations of the two, I could plainly perceive that much of
their conversation was respecting myself.
To my agreeable entertainment, another young lady entered
the apartment, to whom I was also introduced, and it was not
long before a third appeured, aud all having become souted
and tranquillity restored, my friend turned again to me, and
in his manner inquired if the ladies were " Good," To which
he did not seem satisfied with my general assent to his inter
rogation, but wished me to particularize which was the best ;
and accordingly, thus understanding him, I rose from my
chair, and crossing the room took my seat by one of the three,
at the same time declining the Latin degrees of comparison,
<l Bonus, major, maximus," which appeared to divert and
please the whole purty. it was not long before the lovely
selection I had made and myself were left alone, by the others
retiring to the opposite side of the room ; and thus singularly
ehe entertained me by performing on the guitar, accompanying

TRAVELS IN MEXICOl 18T
ft with the soft tausic of her melodious voice, and by a game
of backgammon. By the aid of my conversation book, which
I found useful, she made many inquiries of me about my coun-
try, apd discovering that she seemed to be much pleased with
my imperfect answers, I asked het if she would like to visit
the United States ? to which she replied, " That she would be
happy to do so, if she had an American for her protectory' ; My
stay at the hospitable house of the three lovely sisters was in
terrupted by my friend informing me that the hour had arrived
for the departure of the diligencia, and we both, no doubt with
much reluctance, took our affectionate leave of the aedom-
plished and beautiful trio.
UpOn our arrival at the hotel, we had only to take our seats,
for the vehicle was making ready to depart. The diligencia,
in leaving Guanajuato, had to descend again the same deep
glen by which we had entered the town, as that was the only
ingress and egress to and from the place. Guanajuato is Cele
brated for its great productions of silver. The mines are more
famed for the larger abundance of gold contained in the silver
ores, than those of any other in the Republic. '
When the precious metals were first discovered on the
mouutain of Guanajuato, the happy individual who was the
proprietor, determihed that a beneficent donation should be
the first act to grace his good fortune. Accordingly he built
a frigate of the first class, and when it was completed, armed,
manned and rigged, he sent it to Spain, where he made it ft
present to the king : for this generosity his sovereign hondured
him With the poble title of marquis.
The mines of Guanajuato are not now so extensively worif>
ed as in former times, and, in natural consequence) the yield
is pot so much as it has been ; however, they are considered
to produce, annually, about one million of dollars; They are
believed, from the extent of their operations, to be fts rich, and
perhaps more so than any others in Mexico. But a short time
before my arrival there, a system had been discovered by
which a large amount of money had been robbed from the
mint. It appeared that, as I was informed, the government Sus
pected that too much alloy was mixed With the pure metal,
and it ordered that the coined dollars should be assayed. The
result of a chemical experiment proved the conjecture correct,
and by the Watchfulness of the officers the thieves Were de
tected. The plan by which the money had been abstracted
was this : the individual, whose duty it was to examine the
money as it received the Stamp, would deposit in his Own
pocket a given number of dollariq the' amount of which he

133 TRAVELS IN MEXICO?
would communicate to another workman, whose business it
was to melt up such coin as had not received a good impres
sion ; thus the smelter would add to the silver in the crucible
as many copper imitation dollars as the examiner had stolen,
and by these means the bullion and the coin would not lose in
weight. My day's journey from Guanajuato promised to be a delight
ful one ; for it proved that, as day dawned, as far as the eye
could extend the road was good. During that day we passed
several good-looking towns, and in particular that of Silao, a
well-built place, containing about four thousand inhabitants.
At Silao I noticed an extensive and elegant stone house, which
looked as if it might have been a Jesuit building ; and, from
the use to which it was appropriated, I had no doubt of the
correctness of my conjecture ; for such edifices were occupied
by soldiers as a garrison. The horses of the diligencia were
exchanged here, and were better looking animals than any I
had seen on the road. We passed on that day also the town
of Leon, a place after the Spanish order, and of imposing ap
pearance, having several large and very handsome churches.
Here we took breakfast, and, while the driver was changing
his team, I took a short stroll through the town, and was
much pleased with the neatness and cleanliness of it.
It was after dark when I arrived at Lagos. This town,
though situated on the largest river I had seen in Mexico,
takes its name from being in a lake region. On the tops of
the hills, which are only the depressions of the mountains
south of Lagos, are many lakes, one of which, an artificial one,
I passed : it was two miles or more in extent. Lagos is in a
warmer country than the valley through which I had just
passed. Much fatigued from the loss of sleep, and the exercise I ex
perienced in my journey of four hundred miles, as soon as I had
partaken of some dinner, and settled with my Mexican friend,
who had been so politely paying my bills on the way, I re
tired to my room, and went to bed. Some might feel curious
to know how myself and friend came to an understanding ;
and, for their information, I will say that, in the first place, I
drew from my pocket a handful of dollars and small change,
and laid it in a heap on the table at which we were sitting.
He then called the name of the first place at which we stop
ped, taking from my pile as much as he had payed for me there,
and so on, naming each, until our arrival at Lagos. When he
had finished, his amount of money was as large as my own.
Before putting it in his purse, he looked inquiringly at me and
said, !' Good ?" and obtaining my assent, " Esta bueno," and

TRAVELS IN MEXICOi 139
" Mil gracias," — very good, I thank you a thousand times — he
hid the cash for ever from my sight.
On the following morning I awoke and found myself en
tirely alone ; for my Mexican friend had, during the night,
taken the diligencia for Guadalajara. After dressing myself,
my first business was to write in my journal, but I had not
long been employed thus when I was interrupted by a ser
vant-girl entering with chocolate, which is always taken in
Mexico some hours before breakfast. After taking this beve
rage I determined to deliver a letter of business and introduc
tion, which had been politely handed me by the keeper of the
diligencia office in the city of Mexico, to be presented to the
keeper of the same at Lagos. I was informed that I would
find him to be a Frenchman, and that he could speak the Eng
lish language. Upon my going to the office it so happened,
that the first individual to whom I showed my letter was the
gentleman to whom it was directed ; but lo and behold ! al
though he could parlez Francais, and habla the Spanish, as
gaily as a mocking-bird, yet he could not say a word of Eng
lish. I felt desperate, and endeavoured to get him to pro
nounce but one word of my mother-tongue ; but upon every
occasion he charged at me with both French and Spanish, to
my entire discomfiture. It was a drawn battle, and we both
recoiled backwards and took a good look at each other.
My surprise can hardly be imagined when I discovered my
condition; and my confusion on that occasion can only be
known to those who have been placed in a similar situation. I
found myself in the very heart and centre of a foreign country,
and in a town where I was a total stranger, unable to speak
a single sentence of the language of the people by whom I was
surrounded. I shall for ever pity the individual who is so
positioned that he cannot either understand or be understood,
as I was in this instance, without an apparent remedy.
My letter to the Frenchman informed him that I would pre
fer to continue my journey to Zacatecas by the diligencia, if
there should be any running to that place ; and, if not, I would
take a caritalia, a Spanish carriage, or servants and animals,
as he might advise. In business transactions of the kind,
where three points are to be discussed, of so much importance
to me, it was necessary that there should be an explicit deter
mination as to what should be done. I returned to my room
for my book of dialogues, and hoped that by its aid each of us
could come to an understanding ; but, unfortunately, the book
failed to answer my purpose. It was but a very imperfect
compendium. I have no hesitation in saying, that it would
have amused any person in the world to have witnessed our

140 TRAVELS IN MEXICO,
distress, in the fruitless efforts we made in looking for sen
tences to suit our purposes, and our endeavour to select and
write down words to express our thoughts.
Ip despair the book was closed, and we were again put to
the stand, in this dilemma a Mexican fortunately came into
the room, and I soon perceived, from the brightened coilntei
nance of the Freuchmaa, that something pleasing was about
to happen, and in a short time he beckoned me to follow him.
While passing through the streets, my mind confused by the
disagreeable conditiop ip which I was placed, I could oply
feel vexed at the upipteptiopal atteptiop I attracted from the
iphabitants j and often did I hear repeated, as I walked, the
names, Ingles, Americano. I had beep advised to make my*
self as little conspicuous as possible, and to proceed hastily
with my jouruey, so as to escape potice. I thought too of the
declaratiouB of mapy persops, with whom I had formed att
acquaintance in the city of Mexico, that no one had ever
straight forward performed the journey I was making, upless
at the head of an army, or connected with a powerful band of
travellers: no one with whom I conversed but who dis*
couraged and dissuaded me from my undertaking. And ah
though my thoughts reverted to Old Virginia, there was yet
no retreat left for me, and I was resolved to go on to death or
to victory.
The Frenohman at length entered a large door way, and I
followed him up the steps to the corridor. We were then met
by a Btout, likely looking Mexican, who was introduced to me
as Doctor Tesus Anaya. The doctor could '( speak English
leetle," he said, by his having once visited New Orleans. I
explained to him that I wished to take a caritalia to Zacatecas.
The Frenchman assured me that my necessity should be sup
plied in two days' time, and although I was subject to so long
a delay, I felt rejoiced that I was enabled to express the par*
ticulars of my wants. Having returned many thanks to the
doctor for the trouble he had been put to on my account, I re-?
tired to my lodgings, determined to employ my time ip writ-
ipg ip my journal.
I was engaged upinterruptedly in writing until evening
when my attention was aroused by the tread of many horses
passing over the pavement, and stepping quick to the window,
expecting to behold a military troop on its march ; I perceived
that it was only a large party of travellers. However, in a
short time my attentive friend, the Frenchman, came running
into my room, repeatedly saying Americana 1 Americana I— I
immediately took my hat and acoompanied mine host to the
Mason, where the travellers had put up. Upoumy approach-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 141
ing them they Indeed proved to be a party of Americans, and
seemed glad in that distant region, to meet With a fellow cdtuw
tryman. They consisted of twelve In number, of whom thf ea
were ladies, all from New England, and in the employment
and under the protection of a Mf . Peck, Who was on his way
to San Bias, upon the Pacific Ocean, to establish a cotton
manpfactory. Thus it Is perceived that the enterprising
Yankee regards not space, Clime, or tongue) So that he can in-*
dulge in his hope of making money, and I really Was reminded
of a St. Domingo politician's declaration, that if a bag Pf cof»
fee should be hung in hell, a Yankee Would go after it< Be
sides the Americans, there were eight Mexicans in the party.
Mr. Peek informed me that all of his company had been sick
on their Way from Tampico to Lagos, being afflicted with inj
termittant and ague fevers ; and notwithstanding that one of
them had been left behind, yet he then considered them all in
good healths Their indispositions were, no doubt, ooptracted
while at Tampico, and on their way through the low lands of
the gulf coast.
The sight of these American travellers would have been a
scene of much curiosity, to any of the honest and peaceful ci-i
tizens of the United States. They Were all, men and women,
bag and baggage, equipped precisely as the natives are, When
on a journey from home. Arid indeed it is the only wfty that
any one can hope to travel with any degree of comfort and
safety. Each man was mounted on a good horse and Spanish
saddle. Each saddle had holsters, and two good pistols in
them, and to the left of each saddle Was attached a long
straight Toledo blade. Each rider Carried a double barrelled
gun before him, strapped to the horn of the saddle. The order
ih which the whole party moved was double file. The ladies
Were protected by being positioned in the centre of the line of
their countrymen. When all were mounted and On their march
they had a singular appearance, being neither oivil nor military >
civilized nor savage, but in reality, partaking of something of
all those aspects of mankind.
Mr. Peck informed me that he had anticipated some difficul
ty on his Way to San Bias, as he had been informed at Tampico
that General Thompson had demanded his passport, and in fact
had left the city of Mexico, in consequence of the order Of the
government of Mexico, expelling American citizens from the
Californias. But it afforded me much pleasure at the same
time to commupicate to Mr. Peck, that just six days previous,
General Thompson had assured me that there did not exiBt any
difficulty between the tWo countries. I alsO had the happiness
to say to Mr. Peck, and all of the party, that General Thompsoij

142 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
had favoured me with the reading of President Tyler's message
to Congress, and it seemed to please them much, when I al
luded to the stroug terms ip which Mr. Tyler handled the ques
tion of the barbarous war between Texas and Mexico. As for
myself I am satisfied, that if the American people geuerally
were copvipced of the injustice done by Mexico to American
citizens and American commerce, they would instaptly make
that couptry act justly aud hopestly ip her ports, apd towards
Americao citizens, whose enterprise has induced them to enter
the interior of that country.
I have heard it said, that the United States should blockade
all the ports of Mexico, and shut her commerce out from the
world. I am opposed to that, for it would be doing what
Mexico would delight in ; for if the trade of the world was cut
off from her, her manufactories would then have it in their
power to impose upon her people without measure. Mexico has
but little to export, saving her silver and gold, and that she is
desirous to retain ; therefore she would be rejoiced if the
United States would blockade her ports, so that the English
companies could not export the products of their labour from
the country. I am of the opinion, that whenever she under
takes to chastise her neighbour, she should send an army to the
northern departments of Mexico, which would no sooner be
done, than the whole north would throw itself under the pro ¦
tection of the United States, and petition to become admitted
into the Union.
I was much pleased with all I saw at Lagos. The town
being situated immediately on a river, there was no want of
water. Tliere are two mills here for the grinding of wheat,
the only ones I Baw in any town in Mexico. They are of an
cient structure and built of stone. The water was conducted
to them by canals from the river, and fell upon tub wheels
within the mills. From the abundance of water, vegetation
flourishes at Lagos, and many fruits can be had at all seasons
of the year at that place.
The people at Lagos appeared to delight more in the culti
vation of gardens, than those of any town through which I
had passed ; and while their vegetables were abundant, they
were more excellent than any others which I had tasted, more
especially the article of lettuce, which was of large growth
and very brittle, not partaking of the toughness and bitterness
of that produced in the Union. The inhabitants seemed to be
quite fond of this vegetable, as they made the principal por
tion of their meals of it ; and I often noticed individuals with
a bunch of lettuce in their hands, walking the streets, eating
it as they went along.
The Mexicans are as fond of bathing in water as are the

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 143
Spanish poodles. Mine host, the Frenchman, invited me to
a walk with him, and whenever I was in sight of the river,
or the canal of the mills, I could behold men, women and
children floundering in the water; indeed, I passed near a.
woman who was sitting upon the side of the canal, whose
head and shoulders, streaming with her long hair, looked like
a sack of white wool, from the vast amount of soap-suds with
which she was covered. Such are the scenes for ever to be
witnessed, wherever the traveller comes to water. Soap and
water are the best and surest remedies in a hot climate for
removing vermin and filth. During my walk with the French
man I admired much the extraordinary taste, exhibited by the
people of that place, in attempting to give some gay appear
ance to the outside show of their houses.
The houses upon the street wall were painted precisely as
were their rooms, by representations of vineyards, gardens,
and landscape views, with flowers and varieties of shrubbery,
and for that climate the style was not, in my opinion, inap
propriate ; besides, the eye of the citizen was relieved from
the otherwise dull and prison-like appearance of the houses.
In no other town, during all my travels in Mexico, did I wit
ness houses similarly painted.
On my return from walking, I found an American negro at
the Casa de la Diligencia waiting to see me; he was the only
black man I had beheld since my departure from Vera Cruz.
He told me that his name was Simon, and that he was a na
tive of Louisiana ; this I had no doubt of, as his English was
very broken, like that of a Frenchman. Simon said that an
Italian had taught him how to grind the organ, and that he
was travelling through Mexico with that instrument, at which
business he would do well, were it not for the ladrones, who
never failed to secure all of his profits.
Simon informed me that he had been detained at that place
by sickness, and was under the care of S'r. Doctor Tesus
Anaya. I inquired what the doctor prescribed for him, and
he replied, that he was directed first to bathe seven times, and
that afterwards he gave him some roots, of which he made
teas to drink, but found himself no better : his cough was a
violent one. And here I would remark, that to practice medi
cine in Mexico, the doctor, to be successful, must first minis
ter to the superstition of his patient. Nothing is more com
mon among the native physicians, when called to visit the
sick, than to direct that the invalid should be bathed an odd
number of times, (no matter how many, so that the number is
odd,) previous to taking any medicine. The last and odd
bath is supposed almost to produce the cure, which only re
quires the use of a little physic,

hi

144 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
The physician has always to make good his fee before he
commences the healteg art, or otherwise he will receive no-
thipg. The Mexican, op beipg confiped by ipdispositiop,
hangs the picture pf the angel Gabriel at the head of his bed,
and during all the time of sickness, he is praying to the saint. If
he recovers, he attributes the cure to the direct interposition
of Qabriel, apd with much sapctity makes a presept to the
iriest, — leaving tho doctor unpaid, unless the wily physician
as received his pay in advance. Doctors do not prosper well
ip Mexicp, excepting in the large cities ; first, because of the
superstitiop of the people, and next, for the reason of the
great good health of the table lands.
Simon was desirous that I should employ him as a servant,
but not liking the cast of his physiogpomy, and not wishing
tp be trpubled with tbe music of his organ, as his speaking
EpglUh was po ipduceroeut, I determined to decline the pro
position, To convince me of his bravery, he showed his
wounds which he had received in hard-fought battles, and re
lated the history of the murder of a party of Americans, to
whom he was a servant ; but these were also reasons why he
would not suit me, for I did not know but that he might have
been an accomplice in such horrid transactions, and as much
of a robber as any of the Mexicans.
On the evening of the second day the diligencia was to ar
rive from the city of Mexico. I felt much gratified on its ar
riving at the office, at perceiving that the only passenger in it
was either an European or an American ; and much to my joy
he afterwards proved to be a citizen of the United States, al
though for a long time, a resident in Mexico. His name I
must be excused from giving, as the reason may hereafter
prove obvious.
The American was good-looking, and as intelligent a gep-
tleman as I had ever met with. His journey was in the same
direction as my own, at least as far as Zacatecas. I informed
him of the arrangement made for me by the polite Frenchman,
at whose house we were, and proposed that he should share
the accommodation. He gladly embraced the offer, and ex
pressed much gratification at his good fortune of having it in
his power to travel with a fellow-countryman.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 145

CHAPTER XII.
Departure frbm Lagos. Chocolate, cups, knives And forks. Aft
American for my companion. The iiewplain called La Villita.
The (polite Frenchman. The plain of La Villita. Having arrived
at Vinita. In towns in Mexico.. Public Houses eallfeu Marons.
Fum iture. Spanish Caritalia. My misfortune. Hir6 a bed for
the night- Fondi. Cookf.hop. The rent of the room, jja
Vill ita. Departure. Roads, bridges and ways. Wheeled Ve
hicles. Ancient customs. The hacienda Pennueles. / The ex-
tetisive fields. An artificial lake. Arjjuas Calientas, Palace of
the Conde Guadaloupe. Wo wero foreign padres. Extravagant
charges. Italian Opera company. Thd city of Argufe Callehtas.
Churches, prie'sts, and soldiers. The case of the White Jadi ahd
the people. Decision of the Judgfea. AtrieHbafl waggdhi: A
pleasiiig sight. The differehce between Mexican fend Arfleficah
waggotts. Tile Moors wild invaded Spain: Our day's journey.
Dust and Wind. The skin. Display of badges. Our ride fdr
tho most of the day. Corn-field. At San Jacinto. The Indians.
The body-guard. Garrisons of disciplined regulars. Cohjectules
of the people. Volunteers of the army. Her Britanie Majesty
conquering Mexico. Servants sleeping on the hard, cold pave
ment. The American servants. Remarks to the Secretary of
the American legation. Hot sun. South-weBt winds. Dishonest
and barbarous habits. The more polished circles. Swindlers,
thieves and murderers. John Randolph. Gentlemen of charac
ter above suspicion.
ON the mdrnilig df the 16 Hi instailt, the American arid myself
departed frohi Lagos. The carretilla in whifch we were
seated, Was obtained from a priest, upori.the reasonable terms
of sixty dollars' for the journey. Our equipment COnsls'ted Of
one armed out-rider and a pbitillion, to the adniiratidh Of the
good people of Lagos.
FrOm the long residence of the American in Mexico, I was*
better provided to meet all the exigencies of my journey than
1 otherwise should have been; for although I had learned
mUch, as to the; inconveniences of travelling in Mexico", yfet
more I had to giean 'at every progress ahd each change that I
should make. My new friend Unci provided un With choco
late, cups, sweet bread, and Spoons, With knives and forks',
articles Which never would have Occurred to me to be neces
sary in my travels. , ,
With an American for my companion, my ride promised to

146 TRAVELS IN MfXIoO.
be a pleasing ope. The day was .warm, but tempered apd
repdered delightful by the winds continually blowing fresh
from the south-west. It was not long after we had begun
our journey, before we passed -the pleasapt valley of Lagos,
by the difficult crossiug of a mountain. The pleasing prosR«=ct
of the new plain presented to our view La Villita.
But the chief luxury we enjoyed, was travelling .oyer a
smooth surface, mounted in state as we were in the ipnest's
coach, attracting the attention of all the country folk'3 as we
journeyed along, for they knew the vehicle, and no; doubt
imagined that the holy father was seated within, and from
this cause alone we had to attribute the marked attention
shown to us on that day.
It was a device of mipe host, the polite Frepchman, ft>r he
said that he could ipsure Pie my safety in the well knowp par-
retilla, for the Mexicans would sooner eat off their fingt-rs
than offer insult to their beloved and holy priest. The postil
lion and outrider, too, the body-servants of the holy father,
had their badges hanging in full view from around their necks,
the sight of jvhich not only held out pleasant hopes to the
lookers-on, but at the same time, in the bountiful profusion
of indulgences granted them, his favourites, the people had
also to dread his anger and his denunciations, if good cause
should demand them to be exercised.
I had good reason to congratulate myself likewise, that it
was not my destiny on my journey, of perhaps a dozen days,
to Zacatecas, to be driven in a diligencia, under the lashing
and stoning of the animals, over rough and smooth, all alike,
amid the Bhouts of the drivers, and the barking of dogs.
The plain of La Villita was broad and long, more than a
day's journey across. I did not pass any towns or water on
my journey, but, as usual, had my intention chained by the
peculiar scenery which Mexico always and every where pre
sents — that of lofty mountains fencing in an Eden beneath.
Having arrived at La Villita, a town of about two thou
sand inhabitants, we were obliged to put up there, for the
reason that we should not be able to find houses at the close
of the evening, beyond that place, to stop at. In having
ken leave of all public ways of travelling, I found that I
had also to adopt the modes of accommodation as practised
in Mexico, doing in Rome as Romans do — and the longer I
travelled the more I had to leam, for that is the only way to
get along in Mexico ; as to make a stranger understand all
your wants and necessities is a matter of impossibility. Ho
tels are not kept here as in the United States ; in fact, agree-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 147
able?to our understanding dj» tavern-keeping, there are no
such things in the country. T' ,&.:.. .
.'In towns in Mexico, through , which there is much travel,
tfiere are public houses called MelQT&awhich are nothing more
nor less .than the carav^ntdrj^^avtyp^a at by travellers in
ASia.S Having selected,' .byijpnuiry1, the meson at La Villita,
and chosen one of thirteemroohis in the establishment in the
upper story, (for those of the ground floor apartments are
chiefly occupied by arrieros and other filthy travellers,) our
baggage was carried into it ; and it did seem to me as if we
were fitting up quarters for housekeeping for "life," as the
room was divested of all kinds of furniture, saving a large
wooden table and a long bench. My friend being acquainted
with tho customs of tho country, by his long residence in it,
had brought with him from the city of Mexico his bed and
bedding, called in Spanish cartera. This cot is made for tra
velling purposes that it can be quickly put together, and soon
taken to pieces. It weighed with all the bedding but fifty
pounds, and was admirably adapted for the accommodation
of the traveller, op account of its portableness.
It happened to have been my misfortune not to be possessed
of a cartera, although I remembered being informed by a
friend, in the city of Mexico, not to fail supplying myself with
one. But I deferred the purchase until I should reach Zaca
tecas, believing that I should find no difiiclulty in obtaining a
bed to sleep on, at any house that I might stop at, as I had
always met with them at the Casas de la Diligencia.
My mistake was on this occasion very mortifying to me, for I
then for the first time became sensible that I was to repose
without the comforts of a bed, the luxury of which I had never
before been deprived of; and as I cast my eyes over the dusky
brick floor that promised to rest my weary limbs, my mind's
eye could but review in retrospect the feather beds, clean
sheets and white cotton counterpanes of old Virginia. In my
dilemma, however, the American proposed that our postillion
should go into the town and hire me a bed for the night.
The servant, after a long absence, returned and acquainted
us that he was unsuccessful, and that the ladies of La Villita
had informed him that they had use for their beds, and I could
not obtain one unless I would take for life the owner with it.
As flattering as the proposition was to me, to obtain in La
Villita a companion, and as beautiful a one perhaps as the
Mexican ladies were, yet in the distress of my fatigue, and in
despair, I again directed the servant to make the second and
last effort, and to say that I was willing for one night to pay
double price for a bed, without the incumbrance. It was not

146 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
long before the postillion returned With an excellent bed and
and linen sheets, with which, by the aid of my cloak to keep
me warm, I had a comfortable pight of it. My night's lodg
ing cost me fifty ceptgj and, as there was iiofondi (cook-shop)
attached to the meson) WB had to despatch our servant to pur
chase of a baker our repast, at^ the rate of a dollar and twen
ty-five cents pet meah The rent of our room was sufliciehtly
moderate* as the keeper ouly charged twenty-five cents.
La Villita is ah uglyj cheerless-looking place, and there I
was deprived of much sleep by the soldiers, from an old fort
that overlooks the town, shouting and applauding some rope
dancers near the meson. At eight o'clock the following
morning we repacked our baggage and departed from La Vil-
litai The road ovCr which we travelled that day was equal
to aiiy that I had ever seen, and I doubt not that no country
in the world could, with as little labour, have as good roads
as Mexico.
The road over which we travelled had perhaps never been
repaired since it was first marked out by the old Spaniards.
It is true that bridges had been thrown across some rivers,
and other inaccessible places, but the remainder of the roads
havd never been thrown up in form, excepting, as before re
marked, for short distances, and near the large towns ; aod
indeed their appears pot to have beep the necessity for that
attention to roads in Mexico as in most other countries, as
the table lands have no elevation that require excavations for
thoroughfares through them, while the depressions of the
mountains can be crossed without labour ; besides, as it only
rains there from September until June, the earth is always in a
parched condition during the rest of the year, so that the tra
veller never suffers but from dust or the heat of the sun, nor
is retarded in his progress, excepting in the lake regions.
Another reason may be assigned why the Mexicans do not
devote more atteptiop to public improvements, which is, that
they cannot be persuded to believe that wheeled vehicles are
safer and better modes of transportation, than by the packing
of mules ; they are like the boy who went to mill, with the
corti in one end of the bag and a stone in the other to balance
itj could assign no reason why he did so, other than that his
ancestors did so before him.
About fifteen miles from La Villita, we stopped at the ha
cienda Pennueles, to take chocolate. From the high state of
improvement in that place, I felt satisfied that it belonged to a
gentleman of good taste. The dwelling in which he lived
was commodious, aud ornamentally painted on the outsides
besides, all of the houses^ necessary for his servants and e

TRAVELS IN MEXICO, 149
purposes, partook of the same degree of style. They were
erected ip regular rows, apd stuccoed, which gaye a degree of
finished freshness to the whole place, superior in point of conir
pleteness to any other hacienda, th>t I had passed.
The extensive fields were enclosed; by a stone wall four feet
high, and discoverable, from the elevated position of the cas^
tie, fro many miles in extent; and not only reaching to the
mountain, but winding up its steep ascent beyond the power
of human vision. There was an artificial lake near the house
formed by a stone dam of about ope-quarterof a mile in length
across a shallow, though broad, ravine, the surface qf whose
waters was grateful to the eye of a weary traveller in that
thirsty land. .The proprietor of Pennueles was a wheat
grower, as by the aid of the lake he could irrigate his lapds-
Our jourpey* was an uninterrupted one to Arguas Calientes,
at -vvhicb. place we arrived late in the evening. This is a city
that has seen more prosperous days, and was once the pride of
the Spaniards. It does pot now contain more than four thou-:
sand inhabitants ; and, as an evidence of its decline, the ma
son at which we stopped was once the sumptuous palace of
the Conde Guadaloupe — and a fine looking building it was —
better than any I had seen in the upper country.
When we dismounted at the meson the wicked old postillion
told the mob in the court, that we were foreign padres, (priests)
and with courteous smiles, and great reverence, did the rag
ged and motley crowd let us pass to qur rooms, without our
receiving a single dun for alms. After we had taken our
quarters, and the servants had brought our baggage into them,
all the operations had to be acted out, as were the evening
before, at La Villita; that of setting up my friend's cartera,
and of hiring myself a bed for the night, which 1 obtained for
the extravagant charge of one dollar.
Our dinner was a most indifferent and unsatisfactory ope for
hungry appetites ; yet the servant said that it was the best he
could procure for one dollar and fifty cents. It cost me, Jiker
wise, six-and-a-fourth cents to have my pocket inkstand filled
and sp extravagant were the prices, for every thing, that it
caused me to inquire if the people of that country were inimi
cal to Americans ? to which I wss answered, that they were
only friendly to those who had money ; and I have no doubt
that they would not hesitate much to the mode of filchipg it
from travellers.
The prefect of that city, I was told, was an enemy of the
human species, by his having been a captain of banditti. HPW-r
ever, 1 found some amends for all my hardships in Arguas
Calientas ; for at this place I found the Italian opera company

150 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
of the city of Mexico, who were on a travelling excursion
through the upper country. My friend and self spent a por-
tiop of the night in attepdipg their delightful performapces.
I felt much regret there were po pripted bills for the accomoda
tion of the audience, and for the want of these I was unable
to learn the names of the actors.
The city of Arguas Calientas takes its name from the cele
brated hot-springs that are in the vicinity 'of the place. These
springs are said to vary in temperature from 80 to 129 deg.
Fahrenheit, and afford delightful baths. The invalids of the
surrounding country resort in considerable numbers to the city
for the benefit of the hot-baths, and, indeed, are never empty
of men, women and children of the city, although they are
not covered by houses, or shelter of any kind.
The city is as well built as any other of the Mexican towns
and has from one to two churches to every square : and, judg
ing from the number of priests and soldiers I saw lounging
about the streets, I have no hesitation in believing that a con
gregation of either could have been obtained at any time. In
the centre of the plaza, in front of the meson, was a handsome
fountain, built after the fashion of a monument. It was a
solid pillar of stone, of about twenty feet in height, sitting
upon a square basement of ten feet high, upon the corners of
which were four swans in a sitting position, spouting water
from their throats.
To give ap idea how justice is administered in Mexico, and
the influence of the wealthy over the administrators of the law,
I cannot refrain from relating a case which came before the
city prefect for his adjudication.
It appeared that a wealthy citizen was the owner of a white
guaranon, (a jack,) and that, whenever the animal went to
the fountain with his master's water-buckets, packed upop his
back, as was the custom, to have them filled for the beuefit of
his owper, the haughty beast would, upon his arrival at the
common watering-place, if he found there any poor women
or children,, who had also come with their earthern vessels for
water, for the reasop that they could pot be the owners of
such animals as himself, through mischief or pride, or some
other cause, jump and kick all about until he would completely
demolish all the crockery of the terrified and defenceless suf
ferers. Such doings had long been complained of by the good
citizens, but his master was rich, and it was thought useless
to prefer a charge against the wealthy man, to the town au
thority, of the many breaches of the peace committed by the
wicked creature.
It happened one day, however, that while Guaranop was on

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 151
his way to the said fountain, and, as usual, all the good people
were, at the sight of him, scampering with their frail jars from
the watering-place, which was designed for the benefit of all
the inhabitants, the said white beast, as it were, perceiving
that he could not, by the retreat of the poor water-carriers,
have a frolic, smashing jugs at the fountain, suddenly turned
aside into a market place, and, driving out all the buyers and
sellers, he made his heels dance amongst the toy, dry-goods,
and glass-ware stands, as well as by overturning many pyra
mids of fruit and precious chili, committing grievous trespass.
So great was the outrage that the hucksters could not endure
it ; and, although his master was rich, they all determined, to
the great joy of the water carriers, to sue for damages. Ac
cordingly, the owner was summoned to appear before the
honourable prefect, judge of the law.
The master did not hesitate to appear, and when the charges
were preferred, he, in defence, said, that the jack was a dumb
brute, and that he could not hold himself responsible for his
acts, and if the learned prefect wished to prosecute a suit for
the benefit of the market people, that he must send for the
animal, the guilty one, and not- for bim, to answer to the
allegations. He was accordingly discharged, and the guara-
non duly summoned and brought into court, where it was
thought, from his sense of guilt, he behaved decently. The
judge, unable to obtain any defence from the dumb prisoner at
the bar, and having sufficient evidence against him, proceeded
to deliver the judgment of the court, and decided that the
animal should have twenty lashes upon his bare back, and
work at hard labour upon the public streets, for the term of
three months.
Early on the following morning we again commenced our
journey, and, having reached the suburbs of the city, I dis
covered ten American wagons encamped near the highway.
Upon inquiry, I found that a majority of those wagons had
American drivers, but the wagons and teams were the pro
perty of a Frenchman, residing in the department of Chihuahua,
and that he had transported them from Saint Louis, Mo., by
land, to Blexico, and I was told, that not unfrequently those
wagons made trips from Chihuahua to the city of Mexico, a
distance of one thousand miles. I was informed that they had
made drives, from the above city, of more than two thousand
miles, to Santa Fe.
It may be surprising to some persons that I should have
taken any notice of the wagon train ; but to on American,
who was travelling far distant from his native laud," in the
midst of a people differing in language, usages, and, in fact,

152 TBAVELS in MEXICO.
in all their appearances, from the rest of the world, it could
not be astopishipg that my attention should have beep at
tracted by auy thing American, and that I should have been
delighted in beholding a fellow countrymep, though a wagoner.
It may pot be improper here to attempt to describe the dif
ference between the American and the Mexican wagpp. With
out exception, the Mexican copstructed wagop has but two
wheels, and is manufactured, generally, witliout the use of
iron. The hub is a single cut from a tree, about twenty-eight
inches in length, and fifteen in diameter. There are but four
spokes to a wheel, four inches through ; while the felloes are
twelve inches thick, and as many broad. The whole is made
of the heavy, strong wood of the country, and, from its solid
ity, is difficult to break. The body of the wagon is about
equally balanced over the axletree, the front resting upon the
tongue, ufter the fashion of the ox-carts in the United States.
The body is never planked, but thatched with straw, as also
the sharp roof to it.
From eight to twelve oxen are at a time yoked by the horns,
aod pot with a bow over the peck ; while the driver carries a
stout pole, from ten to fifteen feet in length, having a sharp
metal spear affixed to the smaller eod, by the cruel use of
which they prick aud goad the animals along. It i3 true, that
there are some lighter wagons used in the cities, which have
two sets of shafts, so that the whole weight of the body of the
¦wagon rests upon the backs of the horses. However, as trans
portation is carried on the backs of mules, they have but little
use for wagons in Mexico.
The individual who visits Mexico, from every thing that
surrounds him, finds himself retrograding to the age of the
Romans, in some things, while in others, to the days of Abra
ham. The Moors, who invaded Spain, brought nothing of im
provement with them, and the Spaniards, who conquered Mex
ico, have indelibly stamped the character of the people of that
country with a predominant prejudice against all the useful
arts All of their implements of agriculture, and simple fix
tures of raw hide harness, are of primeval invention, and the
present Mexican seems to have degenerated from what their
masters had perfected them in.
Our day's journey was a dusty one, for the wind set strong
from the south-west, from which quarter it scarcely ever
changes its direction during the dry season. As we were gra
dually ascending a more elevated table country from Lagos to
Zacatecas, those strong winds, sweeping from the Pacific over
the plains, have a disagreeable effect upon the traveller. For
in the first place, it must be remembered, that we were at

TRAVELS JN MEXICp. J5.3
Jeast sevep or eight thousand ffept above the level qf the spa,
and under the tropical sun, where rain had pot moistened the
earth for months, and then had a coptipual current of strong
wind blowing upon us, its drying influences bping felt aqqprd->
ing to my previous conceptions of its deleterious effects.
Los ira, as the Mexicans call it, (the air,) appeared to have
absorbed the fluids of piy eyes, apd they had more qr less disr
tressed me, from the time of my first ascending upop the fable
land ; besides my skin had entirely become divested pf moisr
tore, as if the liquids of the system had refused to perform their
functions. Tho skin had a hard parched aspept, as if it was
almost audible to the touch ; while in the shade J was neither
cold nor hot, and with not so pleasant a feeling as, lukewarm-
neas. The dry earth, under all of these causes, was easily raised
in clouds of dust, and as it floated in solid bodies, like a sir-!
occo, or a whirlwind, we were obliged, with month apd eyes
shut, to charge through the thick array; but as exhausted
uature would require respiration, it could not be perfqrmed,
but by taking the dust with the atmosphere on the iungs.
Well did I dread the ira as the Mexicans, allhpugh it has often
been hooted at by some foreigners, who have had but a short
residence in the country. We had pot been long on our way
that rporning before I observed that our out-rider had made a
more considerable display of badges than at any former period,
and upon inquiring the reason of the increased ostentation, he
informed me, that as murders were very frequently committed
on the road we had that day to travel, he wished the more
strongly to impress the robbers, that he helonged to the coach
of a father ; and thus the man believed that religion could
restrain the hand of a pirate, whep the laws of his country
would not.
Our road, for the most part of the day, was over a barren
country, and I discovered that in many places of the plains,
the blue thistle, or weed, that has in recent years covered the
fields of some Stales in the Union, apd ip fact, supplanted,
in many instances, the browp straw and piher spoufaneous
vegetation — abounded in that region, and as the American
planter was at a loss to conjecture from whence the new in
vader came, may it not be reasonable to suppose that animals
brought through Texas to the United States, carried with
them the seeds of the useless and barbarous growth.
In the evening we travelled by the side of a continued corn
field, which extended seven or eight miles. This I know is
difficult for the inhabitants of the United States to believe,
P 5

154 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.'
but is nevertheless true. With equal veracity it is stated,
that the eye could pot detect the breadth of the cultivated
field, for it was lost ip distapce over the level plaip. It was
the hacienda of San Jacinto, and was the property of Conde
Perez Galvez. Besides the maize grown on that farm, there
were wheat and other crops. At San Jacinto terminated our
journey for that day. My bed here cost me seventy-five cents,
and indeed my sleeping was dearer to me than my eating ;
and but for the fact, that I should reach Zacatecas on the fol
lowing day, I had determined that I would not repose at all,
but employ my time in writing, and sleep in the day time,
while travelling in the coach.
At the meBon of San Jacinto many officers of the Mexican
service had stopped, and among them was a Deputy from the
department of Santa Fe ; his name had escaped me, but he
stated that the Camanche Indians had made war upon the de
partment of Chihuahua, and were destroying all before them.
He related that he had had a distant view of Indians who
were engaged in murdering all the inhabitants of a hacienda.
He said it was calculated that the Indians had taken the
lives of about three hundred thousand Mexicans in the last
five years, and that hundreds of haciendas, which had not
been devastated by the Indians, had been abandoned to the
merciless foe by their proprietors. I was of the opinion, from
the narration of the deputy, that the Texians, in some short
period, would only have to subdue the savage conquerors of
the northern departments, and people them with the Anglo
Saxon race.
With the body-guard of the deputy, and the military officers
who were quartered at the meson of San Jacinto, for that
night, if they were brave, we could have resisted a consider
able force of Indians. From the many cavalcades that were,
from every direction of Mexico, making their way to the
capitol, many were the speculations created by the good
people of the country. Some were of the opinion that Santa
Anna designed another revolution, with the object of making
himself the absolute and permanent despot. Whilst others
believed that the President was organizing a body of troops
for the conquest of the United States. Their ignorance was
to be pitied ; the foreigners and the intelligent portion of the
Mexicans felt satisfied that preparations were making for the
invasion of Texas.
It appears to be necessary, for the maintenance of the
government of Mexico, that every city, town, and farm should
be strongly garrisoned with well armed and disciplined regu
lars. These troops, in my estimation, are not what they are

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 155
represented to be by some, as having been taken from the
pnsons and hospitals of the country, which in some periods of
the revolution, has been the case. But on the contrary, they
are now likely, active, young men, selected from the atMetic
of the whole population of the republic.
My attention was attracted, while in the city of Mexico, by
beholding some four or five hundred men march into the place,
dressed in all the peculiar and tattered costumes of the coun
try. A gentleman informed me that those men were volun
teers for the army, and that they were obtained by a squad of
soldiers, who marched through the villages and haciendas,
capturing the best looking men of those places : and although
the poor wretches would lament and remonstrate much at first,
yet when they had received their uniforms and found them
selves well provided for, they became pleased and delighted
with their condition.
The soldiers of Mexico have been mostly impressed from
among the aborigines, while the officers have had their ap
pointments generally from the Spanish race, and foreigners of
every nation. If the people of Mexico are not military, they
must become so, under the present military despotism, by
which they are governed. And if Mexico should continue to
be ruled by an ambitious chieftain, the United States may
have a troublesome, strong and envious neighbour. It is not
wisdom to despise an enemy until the breaches are repaired,
and the fallen towers are rebuilt, for the garrison will thereby
become refreshed and invigorated within, and, in an hour not
expected, the self-secure may be surprised, and with a heavy
loss, taught to turn their contempt into admiration, if not
trembling. On a certain occasion an officer of her Britannic majesty
was in conversation with me, upon the subject of the effici
ency of the Mexican army, and I could only be amused at the
fluency of his imagination. The captain said that her royal
highness, Queen Victoria, would not want an easier task than
to subdue Mexico, for she would only have to send over some
two or three thousand negroes from the West Indies, and after
they had lassoed some one or two thousand Mexican Indians,
and they found that they were well fed, and clothed in the
red coats of her majesty's troops — the balance of the Indians
would soon come in, and there would be no battle to fight.
However, I am of the opinion that, if her majesty's black
troops were to come to Mexico, they would meet with the
same gallant reception that the French did in 1839 — and that
they would have to make the best of their escape, to prevent
being lassoed in return !

156 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
At the break of day, my Amerioan friend and self arose from
our carteras to commence our journey, it being the 20th day
of January. When I opened the door of our room it was
with pain I perceived that our servants, (one of them was an
old man,) were lying upon the hard and cold pavement of the
court of the meson. The night was the coldest that I had
felt since my arrival in that country, and I found that a close
room, with several lays of light clothing, was necessary to
make me copifortable. But haviug givep expression to my
sympathy, my friend informed me that it was the habit of all
the servants of the country, and that in any of the climates of
Mexico, the common classes preferred sleeping in the open air
to being lodged with the fleas in the houses, summer or winter.
From the dryness of the atmosphere, no known diseases are
said to have been engendered from the exposure. The Ame
rican servants who have ever been used to summer and winter
clothing, besides having blankets and fires in their rooms,
could not, if transported to Mexico, stand what Americans
call exposure, for the entirely different habits of the people of
the United States from those of that country are such, that I
have po doubt that persons of the hardiest constitutions would
perish under tho hardships, The Indian servants of Mexico
have, by nature, no fears to apprehend from storms or change
of climate. From the experience of those who have seen
much of the world, it has been acceded, that the slaves of the
south and west of the uuion are better provided for, and are
happier than the indigent servile communities of any other
part of the world.
A Mexican gentleman once remarked to the Secretary of
the American Legation, that he had visited New Orleans, and
was very much pleased with the city, but that he could not
bear to witness tho sufferings of tho poor slaves. The se
cretary appropriately replied, by inquiring, if he had ever
compared the relative condition of the slaves of the United
States with the servants of his own country? and if he had,
his sympathy would be the more awakened by beholding the
aggravated sufferings of servitude among his own blood and
fellow-countrymen. Since I have touched upon the subject of slavery, I will
here take the privilege of saying that nothing, to my mind,
can be more absurd, under the American constitution, than to
attempt to break tho bands of relationship between muster
and slave, without giving entire and perfect civil liberty to
the disenthralled free pien ; for liberty, otherwise, to the
Mack man, would be a mockery and a paradox. Tips sen
timent I express in strict truth and justice to the subject —

JPRAVBLS IN MEXICO. 157
not that I desire either of the modes, ar wish to meddle with
the delicate institutions of my country.
Our journey for this day was as the preceding one ; a hot
sun, hard south-west wind prevailing, with clouds of dust,
and often during the day the wind was more violent than I
had known it to be on any former occasion, for I cou}d at
elevated points hear the gravel strike against the sides of the
coach. The hard winds of this region are attributed to the
higher elevation of that part of country over any of the plains
south of it. Zacatecas is to Mexico, what Mount Airy, ip
Virginia, is to the United States, for the waters, that have
their rise at either of those places, flqw to both oceans, east
and west, and north and south, affording conclusive evidenco
that its summit is above any other portion of table lapds ip
Mexico. It is said to be 8,500 feet above the level pf the
sea. I felt rejoiced that my journey would terminate pn that day
in the Padre's coach although it was with some apprehen-r
sions that I should not be so fortunate again. However, we
did not have a happy deliverance from all molestation, for
abott two o'clock in the evening, a party of men were dis
covered in pursuit of us, and, upon their overtaking the coaph,
armed with guns, swords apd pistols, they advanced by divid
ing their party upon each side of us, three on ppe and two
upon the other. They most impertinently scrutinized our
persons and our baggage, yet without making the least hostile
show. If they had, as undesirable as the necessity would
have been, myself and friend were resolved to defend our lives
and our property, and were well prepared for the rencontre,
It was our intention that both of us should maintain the action
upon our two sides at once with our six barreled pistols,
flanked as we were with tho enemy. Our escape, perhaps,
from harm, resulted first from riding in the priest's coach, and
next, by our being foreigners.
Such a condition of dishonost aud barbarous habits, existing
in a country called civilized and Christian, must appear to
the nations of Christendom to be incredible, but the (ruth has
nevertheless been attested by all travellers who have had the
temerity to journey much into the territory of ill-fated
Mexico. From the dreadful results of the attacks by the
freebooters, committed upon men and women, whose business
has called them abroad, it would be madness in any individual
to attempt a journey, without furnishing himself first with
all the necessary equipments of defence.
The consequence of such an imperative custom is, that you
cannot at any time see a miserable huckster driving a donkey,

158 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
or' a peasant engaged in his agricultural pursuits, without his
having his gun and rusty old spear swinging to the side of
his half-starved animal. I would impress upon the minds of
my readers that there are no unarmed citzens in Mexico — it
matters not when or where you find the man, in his house, in
the street, or on the highway, although he may be needy for
food or raiment, yet you wili see an implement of death in
his hands, for the double purpose of attack and defence.
As a people, the more polished circles of society, as also
the lower classes, possess decorum and finished manners, and
in their guileless aspect, and professions of punctilious per
formances, the stranger, in the contemplation of the Mexicans,
has much to admire — yet, at the same time, if his confidence
should be won in them, he will often find himself the dupe of
the basest treachery.
True, there should and must be some good, houest, apd high-
mipded citizeps ip Mexico ; yet, so difficult are they to be
found, and so few the number known to the world, that they
are not sufficient to give a respectable character to society. It
is a fact that perfection cannot be found anywhere, and some
wicked persons are to be met with in every community ; yet
it is monstrous when the great majority of the inhabitants of
a country are swindlers, thieves, and murderers, in an un
qualified manner, as is the case in Mexico ; it must be with
shame and remorse that Christianity and civilization, in the
enlightened world, are compelled to denounce them as a na
tion of pirates.
It is needless to garble the truth, for covering the iniquities
of these people in any form, is but encouraging them in the
perverseness of their ways, and deluding the credulity of those
who are earnest seekers after information, some perhaps for
future interested motives. Far be it from me to beguile a
foreigner into the serious difficulties and dangers which must
follow the travelling and residing of any one in Mexico.
Never could have I comprehended the correctness of Mr.
Randolph's declaration, upon the floor of Congress, that, in
Mexico, "the men were all rogues, and the women all ****,"
and have been impressed with the great error and responsibi
lity of the government of the United States, when she received
that country into the family of nations, until chance and ne
cessity obliged me to visit Mexico, and when there I was
compelled to believe ocular demonstration. I have the bold
ness fearlessly to charge home the disgrace of their national
character, with the sincere desire that it may be but as a drop
in the bucket, to chastise our sister republic into reform.
The government of Mexico, in 1842, made some efforts to

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 159
break down the universal practice of wearing arms, by Santa
Anna's issuing a decree that none, excepting gentleman of
character above suspicion, should be permitted licence to have
private arms ; yet the decree failed to correct the evil, for the
good citizens all believed that they came up to the require
ments of the law ; besides, the keepers of the custom-houses
would have been foiled in securing their fees had they enforced
the intentions of the decree. Therefore the robber, as well as
the honest man, alike, as formerly, carried weapons.

CHAPTER XIII.
Del Refugio. Flock of sheep. The hacienda Paras. Ascending
the Plain. The Mexicans in the fields. Vein of silver on the
surface. Abundance of silver ore. Laws of Mexico on Mining.
The principal vein of silver. The appearance of the range of
Mountains. A large Convent. High wall. Don Garcear's
granary. Battle-ground. General Andrade Santa Anna. Co
lonel Harcourt's defeat of the Zacateoans. Santa Anna flashed
with pride. Conquest of the United States and Texas. Napo-
' leon of America. First view of Zacatecas. The streets. Meson.
The American my interpreter. An Irish gentlemen. Many
public buildings. La Parroquia Conventd de Muestro Senora del
Petrocenis. The Saint. Location of the resident Saint. Sub
ject of divinity. Government Palace. Spanish Marquis. Child
christened. The Mint of Zacatecas. Mr. John Scott. Mexican
horse. Hacienda de Beneficio Santa Clement. Cultivated gar
dens. Water from the Mines. Bags of hides. Ropes of hide.
Shafts of the Mines. The ore-yards. Labourers. Captains.
Specimens of silver ore. Native silver. Reflections. The emin
ence of Santa Cloment. Mountain and Valley Scenery. Machine
for pulverizing ore. One thousand bushels of ore. Washing the
ore. Examinations of the labourers. Thefts. The blackleg.
During- our day's journey we had to pass Del Refugio, a
hacienda said to be of considerable value. I was informed
that the present possessor is not its proper owner, but that,
upon the demise of its proprietor, in fee simple, the creditors
of the deceased disagreed about the sale of the estate, and the
limb of the law who had been appointed curator of the pro
perty, having the possession, chose to retain it in defiance of
the just claims of the creditors.
At Del Refugio I saw a herd of sheep that must have num
bered several thousands, and, as they extended over the plain,

}60 gj"R.4YELS IN MEXIfp,
they looked like & vast moving body pf snow- I wish tp im
press, toe tpipd pf the reader that, as the traveller adyappes
north, apd approaches ope of these valuable estates, he will
bejiold immense h,erc|a of stock of all kinds ; apd, as a test of
the truth of my assertion, I will only cite the history pf a
hapieiada which a few years ago caused sppie litigation in the
pity of London, England-
The hapipndia Paras, signifying a vipp, was the oaly estate
ip Mexico where tho grape was permitted to be cultivated by
the king of Spain. It was, previous to the revolut'on, the
property of a Spanish nobleman, but after the independence of
Mexico, he sold it to a Spanish house in the city of Mexico,
and then it was resold to the house of Staples ec Co., of the
same city. The Barings, of London, afterwards became the
purchasers, but were prevented from holding tlie property by
the Deputies of Mexico passing a law preventing foreigners
from buying or selling lands in that country ; and it is said
that the speculations of the Paras hacienda gave origin to the
passage of the act. This estate, I was credibly informed, be
sides the extensive vineyards, producing piany thousand gal
lons of wines and alcoholic 'liquors, pqssessed, when the Bar
ings pvirchased it, upwards of three hundred thousand head of
sheep, with a, corresponding proportion of other stock.
As we gradually ascended the plain to the mountains of
Zacatecas, we were exposed to a heavy cold wind, that swept
pver the face of tho earth, unimpeded by forest. I was some
times diverted by the Mexicans in the fields, whose loose
serapis would, by tho violence of the winds, float from their
shoulders like the wings of so piany sopilotcs, buzzards, as if
the patives would be flown away with.
At about three o'clock in tho evening, my American com-
papiop pointed out to me the rich mountains of Zacatecas, in
a deep gorge of which was built the city of the same name.
T|ie 4iperican had, during his residence ip Mexico, beep en
gaged, pi mining at that place, and could therefore, froni his
perfect acquaintance with it, minutely trace out, for my un
derstanding, a vein of silver ore, the only instance of the kinp]
knovyn. in the world, which rose fq the surface of th,p plain,
apd with precision follow its ascept pp the piouptaip, and de
scribe the visible walls and buildings, where shafts had been
spnk upop th,e vein and its brapebes.
J was much surprised whep I perceived that the veins of
silver ore were perceptible upon the surface, for I had iniagip-
ed that tlie treasures of nature lay buried deep beneath mother
earth apd the moqntain-rrqck, ohspured from all anxious eyps,
as dpes the r|eli man's, nwpey iq his Iqddeg coffers. But pot

TRAVELS IN MEXICO.. 161:
bo with bountiful pature at Zacatecas, for she has, with the
fipger of her pleptiful hand, plainly marked out the useful ore
to the view of man, so that hecanpot be foiled, or uprewarded
in his labours in excavating the precious metals.
The laws of Mexico bountifully provide for the miners, as
it is the privilege of any one to search for ores, and to work
the veins when found, as his exclusive prerogative. When an
individual has made a discovery of rich ore, it is his duty to
survey a given number of acres of land, for the use and benefit
of the mine, and have the same recorded in the office of the
alcalde. He must then commence to work it in ten day's
time, with a particular number of hands, and, at stated periods,
increase his expenditures to an amount limited by law.- The
discoverer, failing to comply with the requisitions, forfeits ail
claim and title to the property, and may be ousted by the will
of any other occupapt who can punctiliously perform the de
mands of government. The proprietor of the lapd on which the
discovery has been made, is always pleased at the location of
mining-operations upon his territories, for it brings to his
doors a ready market for all the surplus of his hacienda cam
pus. Being oontented with the profits of his grain and stock
sold to the operators of the mine, he has hazarded nothipg ip
the uucertain results of opening and proving it ; and besides,
wherever a shaft is sunk, there is also a town erected, which
likewise affords a speculation in lots, to the original proprie-:
tor of the soil.
The principal vein of silver ore at Zacatecas, which first
shows itself in the plain, ascends the nearest mountain, and is
discovered about midway, where a shaft has been sunk to a
great depth, but is not npw worked. The vein then despepds
over the side of the mountain, and, after crossing the next rar
vine, suddenly ascends to the top of the next cone-shaped
peak, and so on, ascending and descending, until it dips under
the city, and again rises to the top of a high peak, immediately
to the north, overlooking Zacatecas.
The appearances of the range of mountains, upon which are
the veins of ore, are like all others in the interior of Mexico.
They are almost deserted by vegetable growth of any kipd ;
for, the small amount of soil on those heights, generally, only
produces a thorny scrubby growth, that makes but a thin ap
pearance in places. The silver mountains of Zacateoas, to my
view, had something of a peculiar appearance, for they seemed
to have been thrown up more abruptly, with a greater number
of cones, having nipples crowning their summits. They ap
peared to have contained more of the native red rock of the
country than any other mountains that I had beheld. I was

162 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
informed that, ip mountains where silver was most prolific,
the rock chiefly abounded ip porphyry, greep apd red stope.
But to return — as I approached the mouptaip, a large cop-
vept was exposed to piy view, which was a presept to the
order of Grey Friars, by the owner of one of the mines. It
was surrounded by the village of Guadaloupe, which had a
romantic aspect, situated just at the foot of the mountain,
and commanding the paBs, where I was directed the road to
Zacatecas. Every town of any consequence in Mexico, has
its pueblo of Guadaloupe, erected in honour of the patron saint
of the country.
Between the road and the village, I perceived a high wall
enclosing a large plot of ground, which I supposed to be a
fortification ; but ray friend informed me that it was a granary
belonging to Senor Don Garciar. Such granaries were not
common, but had been invented and built by him, to prevent
insects from injuring his grain ; his speculations in that article
having been extensive ; by one of which, it is said he made
above a hundred thousand dollars by one purchase.
The plan he adopted to preserve grain for any given time,
was to build houses within the enclosure, to cover the corn,
of round and cone-like form. The houses were about twenty
feet in diameter at the base, but built to a point at the top.
They resembled an old Virginia fodder-stack more than any
thing else. When these houses are tightly stuccoed and filled
with grain, the door is built up and plastered over, by which
process the light, moisture and atmosphere are excluded, and
the grain for ever preserved harmless from insects.
After passing the granary, my friend informed me that we
had entered upon the battle-ground, where Santa Anna de
feated the Zacatecans in 1833, who were the last troops to
hold out against him, when he usurped the government from
the constitutional president Bustamente. The field was <i
dead level, and about one mile wide, confined between moun
tains. Previous to the advance of the conqueror, the governor
of Zacatecas was desirous of obtaining some general of expe
rience to command his forces, and in time General Andrade,
who had ever been an adherent of Santa Anna, suddenly be
came disaffected towards his former master, apd espoused the
cause of the Zacatecans. • The uususpectiug governor, re
joiced at the fortunate accession, appointed him commander-
in-chief of all his forces.
It was not long after General Andrade had been acting under
his appointment before he marched his army, consisting of about
five thousand men, from behind the bulwarks which had been
thrown up on each side of the mountains that comuiapded the

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 163
pass to the city, and which, if defended, would have resisted
any enemy that might march against it. But the general,
true to his secret purpose, for there is honour among thieves,
made his encampment on the plain between Guadaloupe and
the granary, and his antagonist soon bivouaced in sight of him.
General Andrade, in a few days thereafter, commanded his
horsemen, who constituted one half of his army, to carry their
horses to a distance from the camp, that they might have one
good night's grazing, and also directed that the artillery and
infantry should not sleep on their arms that night, as he had no
fears of Santa Anna attacking them. The whole army, fa
tigued with service, willingly obeyed the lenient orders of
their general, with the exception of Colonel Harcourt, a Ger
man by birth and education, who had the command of the
Zacatecan artillery. He alone determined to be upon the alert,
and, accordingly, before the dawn of day, Santa Anna had
skirted the plain at the foot of the mountain, by which well-
timed movement he had thrown himself to the rear of General
Andrade, and thus cut off the retreat of the Zacatecans from
their strong-hold in the mountain.
No sooner had Santa Anna obtained this position, without
alarming his fellow-countrymen and enemies, than he com
menced a heavy fire upon them, and while all were in confu
sion at the surprise, the brave and watchful Colonel Harcourt
rallied his men, and returned the volley of the enemy ; and,
could he have been sustained by the infantry, who Were with
out horses, the triumphant Santa Anna must have been over
thrown ; for the colonel had driven him back, with the loss of
three hundred killed and wounded on the field. As it was,
however, he surrendered, with his whole army, to the power
of superior numbers.
The inglorious commander of the achieved victory, having
secured his prisoners, issued a command that all foreigners,
belonging to the Zacatecan army, should be shot on the spot.
Be it also recorded, to the glory and honour of the Mexican
officers, under the barbarous commander, that they remon
strated against the order, and saved the lives of many brave
men. The shameful decree of Santa Anna being reversed,
and the prisoners marched to the city of Mexico, the gallant
Harcourt obtained his liberty, and in disgust retired to Texas,
where he died a natural death, with glory and honour untar
nished. Santa Anna, flushed with pride at having obtained so impor
tant a victory, immediately determined, contrary to the ear
nest solicitations of many of his advisers, to attempt the
conquest of Texas, and, with a vanity far beyond his powers

164 TSAYW.s JN MEXICO.
Of execution, declared that he wpuld not pnly rgtakp
Texas, put, -vyith hiq affliy pf ten thousand, niep, it was.
his iptentiop to march tp the city of WashipgtpUi apd be
the Napoleon of America- A geptfemap of Zapatecas informed
me that he was present, and heard the boasted vaupt of the
Americap Napcleop, ftpd sq indelible had the glorious appella
tion been imprinted on, hjs mind, that he was agaip heard to
piake a similar expressiop to General Iloustop, after the battle
of Sap jacipto.
Frppi Zacatepas thp victorious army was, marched 'to the
province of Texas, whence the annals pf history never before
recorded so poqipletp ap overthrow of a general with well-
traiped troops. I dp pot accuse Sapta Anna of a vvapt of ip-:
telligepee, bnt op the cqptrary believe him to possess respect
able talepts ; for po map cpuld at will psurp the goyprprpppt
of a patiop, without some streqgth pf niind. Ry his superior
intellect, and thorough knpwledge pf his countrymen, he has
never failed, by the happepipg of evepts, to ride ip the whirl
wind apd direct the stprrn, in the affairs of his imbecile gp=
vernmept. He pappot be commended for his qnibitiop, which has ipipo-
verished the coffers of his couptry, and at the dear price pf
the blood of tho'usapds of his fellpw-couptrymep. His. pas
sions are power and avarice, and tq satiate his appetites, the
one is maddened with the hope of gain, while the other is
driven tar desperatiop by the desire of suprepiaoy. Mexicq
exhibits the remarkable anomaly of a ruler who hplds thpreips
of government ostensibly — though pot by the will pf toe
people ; yet, for all the sipB of which he piay have beep guilty,
the world will forgive him, if hp will make his people honest
and industrious, by doing which, he will emulate the character
of, aud denominated by all the good of the earth, the great
Czar, the Peter the Great of Mexicq.
My first view of the city of Zacatecas was the piost pecu
liar I ever had of any other place. My attention was first
called to the scene, in perspective, through the parrow gorge
of the piountaips. The city contains about twenty-live thou
sand inhabitants. The streets are all well paved, and, from
their being pneven apd hjlly, have a cleanly appearance. A3
the location of the town is over, and surrounded by, mipes of
silver, the wealthy proprietors have, in many instappes,
lavished their money upon large and highly-finished buildings,
after the fashion of the country. My American companion
and myself put up at Dp la Callede Taeuba Meson, and what '
rendered ma well satisfied with the place was, that it was an-.
perintepded by an Italian cook, who cpuld speak English.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 165
It was my intention to remain ho longer in zacatecas than
I Could make all my necessary arrangements for some future
point in my lbng journey. My friend proving) to my trtinHj to
be so very ihtelligent and Well acquainted ill Mexico, I didttOt
hesitate to engAge him as Ply interpreter and my assistant ih
business, its' far as Caneles, and I was superinduced to close a
contract with him, for the reason that he stated, that he' was
destined for that placb. I therefore determined that) as per
haps I should not meet With another so fortunate an opportu
nity of employing an interpreter, I would not let the chance
escape me.
The American promised promptness in Securing all my
equipments, ftnd a speedy departure, and confiding in him, I
employed my time in obtaining information, dnd indulging in
the pleasures Of the city, besides resting from travel. An Irish
gentleman I became acquainted With in the city of Mexico,
dnd Who had resided in that Country for the last fifteen years,
advised tap; when I was about to depart for the upper depart
ments, not to be thrown Off a cautious guard by Europeans
Or Americans, any sooner than I would be by the natives;
for that, in geheral, they were all alike, and I would suffer by
the one as soon as the other, — yet it was absolutely necessary
that I should have au interpreter, and a choice fnust be made,
let it prbve good, bad, or indifferent, and I abide the conse
quences. There are many public buildings in Zacatecas, of large di
mensions and costly workmanship. The church of La Par-
rOgia is nearly the size of the great Cathedral of the city of
Mexicb. Tlie entire wall Of the building is sculptured with
the history of Christ and the apostles. On the church is a
cupola built of the red stone of the country, Which presents
niucli architectural beauty ; there is also another in an unfi
nished state. The edifice was. originally designed for a cathe
dral, but as that intention was vetoed; it was never com
pleted, as tto house of worship can have two steeples, unless
it is a Bishopric.
The Coilvento de NuPstro Sertora del Patrocimo, has its si
tuation upon the pinnacle of a mountain, overlooking the
whole city. This convent is a small religious edifice, and the
peculiar residence of the patroh saint of the city. She how
ever condescends to make an annual visit to her favourite
people, and for the better purpose of investigating the affairs
of the churches, puts up at each for the space of one week.—
After having taken her celestial roUnd, and received the hos
pitality of the city, she then, in the same manner in Which she
descended, is marshalled back to her elevated home; followed

166 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
by a large portion of saints and sinners, who, as they move
forward under triumphal arches of evergreens, have the blood
red banner of the cross waved over them, amid the playing of
music and the firing of rockets and cannon. Having taken
adieu of her rejoiciog flock, she remotely, though ip sight,
quietly resides on the top of the mountain, as the guardian
angel of the public weal, there to remain until the followipg
year, whep the same appiversary festivity is to be celebrated.
There was po place of any consequeuce through which I
passed, but what had its convent dedicated to the patron saint
of the inhabitants. The location of the building is on the
highest elevation overlooking the town, and the resident saints
make their annual visit to their chosen people in the manner
above described.
There was one thing, however, that very much perplexed
me, which was, to understand who were those divine person
ages, for every one had her separate name, and peculiarly par
tial superintendence of the souls of the inhabitapts of each
town, 'while, at the same time, they were undivided and indi
visible, of the same person of the Holy Virgin Mary, Mother
of Christ. I must confess that I am wanting in a sufficient
knowledge of divinity, to understand what seems to me to be
an incongruity ; and I have only mentioned the fact for the
benefit of those who might better copiprehepd the subject thap
piyself, or feel curious about an intricate subject of this na
ture. There are many other churches in Zacatecas, yet I did not
think it important to ascertain their number. There are seve
ral Jesuit buildings used as garrisons for soldiers. One of
these on the south side of the city, the bricks of which were
made of the earth of a grave-yard ; and where the walls had
not been plastered, or had fallen down, the bones and ashes of
the dead were all mixed up in the common mortar of the
bricks. To satisfy myself whether this were so, I visited the
house, and indeed there were, besides human bones, what ap
parently were fragments of clothing of all ages, visible on the
walls, and, in the exhibition, I never was so forcibly reminded
of the Latin maxim as then, " Sic transit gloria mundi."
The government palace fronts on the south side of the
Plaza, and is the largest of all the dwelling houses. It was
originally built and owned by a Spanish noblemap, who, after
the revolutioo, sold it to tho city for the residence of the go
vernor. I was informed that when the foundation of the
church was laid, designed for a cathedral, it was to have
fronted the Plaza, but agreeable to that intention, the church
would have obstructed the view of that place from the palace

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 167
of the nobleman, and to prevent its location there, the noble
man made a donation of one hundred thousand dollars towards
defraying the expenses of erecting the building, provided that
the church should be so altered, as not to obstruct the view
from the palace of the Plaza.
During my stay in Zaratecas, it became necessary to make
excavations in the Plaza, for the laying of pipes to the water
fountain, which caused the original foundations of the church
to be exposed, and the citizens flocked to behold it. But the
Mexicans must have remembered that the days of the marquis
had passed away, and that, although the mines of the moun
tains are yielding millions, the people are poor, for there are
no such men as the Spaniards amongst them. A Mexican
gentleman informed me that the general condition of the citi
zens had never recovered from the plundering of the city in
1833, by Santa Anna, at which time he likewise confiscated
the mining estate of one of her most wealthy inhabitants. —
But a day of retribution may come, and the author of so much
calamity to his fellow-countrymen may yet be overwhelmed.*
I was informed that this celebrated nobleman, (whose name I
regret to have lost,) when he had his child christened, had bars
of silver laid from his palace to the altar of the church of the
convent of San Francisco, for the priest to walk upon.
At the mint of Zacatecas I met with Mr. John Scott, an
Englishman, who, in his own country, had followed civil en
gineering, and had been sent out by an English mining com
pany to that city, to investigate and improve the mode of
mining, and the machinery for the coining of money. Mr.
Scott and myself came in contact at Jalapa, and travelled
from there to the city of Mexico ; daring his stay there, we
messed at the same table. He was not only a polished gen
tleman, but had also a spirit of accommodation, and seemed to
take a plea sure in explaining to me the utility of the machinery
in the mint, and giving all other information occurring to
his mind at the time, or answering my inquiries. The mint
at Zacatecas is said to coin from five to eight millions of specie
per annum.
The post-office and the custom-house are substantial build
ings, well adapted for their purposes. There is but one col
lege here, called the Zacatecas Literary Institute. It is not
remarkable for its elegance or workmanship, yet it is suffi
ciently commodious to accommodate one hundred students.
On the 24th instant, I found myself mounted on a real
* Santa Anna, Bincc the above was written, lias been deposed, but time will
have to develope bis ultimate fate. It Is the Impression of myself that he will
jet be again the Dictator of Mexico.

168 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Mexican small-pacing horse, completely equipped with all the
parapharnalia of the style of the country, consisting of a
Spanish saddle apd bridle, the ipdispepsable lopg rapier, hol
sters with pistols, and lasso. I am ipdebted to the obliging
Englishman, Mr. Scott, for the kindness he extended towards
me, in showing me through the mines of Saint Clemente
and Saint Nicholas, The attention on his part was very ac
ceptable, for these were the most productive of any others in
complete operation at Zacatecas. The pleasure I enjoyed in
visiting the fountain-heads of the wealth of the world, the
glorious prospect before me, was divided in the anticipation of
the first experiment I was about to make upon a Spanish
saddle and a Mexican horse ; and in truth, although to wit
ness the disepiboweliog of tops of the precious metals, so
dear to the pursuits and wants of mankind, was an opportu
nity I would have regretted not to have embraced, yet I must
copfess the prospect of the ride predominated; format the one
I only had to gape and wonder at the vast amount of silver
belonging to others, while in the other I was actually to re
ceive the benefit of a short jaunt upon the most delightfiil of
all the goiog animals ever subjected to the dominion of human
beings ; and I was not disappointed when my friend invited
me to depart, and we had entered the street, to mount what
an Englishman Galls his " cattle," the gay, fiery, low-quar
tered, middling-sized Mexican horse, for they are all such in
comparison with the American animal. My little steed
pricked forward his ears, pawed the pavement, and shot at
me his fiery eyes, as if he had mistaken me for a Texian ; but
I was soon in the saddle, and so far from finding him ill-na
tured, his whole action seemed to demonstrate the delight he
took in holding me between heaven and earth, and apparently
discovering me to be a stranger, conformed to my ways upon
the slightest motion. Upon my first acquaintance, and all my
after uso of the Mexican pony, I found him to possess re
markable instinctive faculties. A stranger to him is at first
liable to mistake his native playfulness and sprightliness for
the wild fright and ill-nature belonging to the English and
Apiericap horses.
The Mexicap horse is a desceodant of the barbed animals
brought from Spain. He is more hardy than any other horse
in my knowledge ; is obliged from his youth to piaturity, to
make his own living, and never knows what it is to be fed on
the luxury of grain, until his master has thrown the lasso over
his neck, and mounts his back, armed with a pair of Spanish
spurs, the rowels of which are from three to six inches ip
diameter, and the first impressions he receives from under the

• TRAVELS IN MEXICO. lf>9
tuition of his master, never fail to raise his feet above all im
pediment in the track before him, in an easy and nimble way,
for he never stumbles. Our ride that evening was by no means
over the plain, for no sooner than we had passed the precincts
of the city, our direction lay immediately over a rugged and
deep ravine of hard rock bottom, having a stream running
down it, created by the water drawn out of the mines.
After haviDg at a rapid rate travelled up a gorge for about
one mile, we began to ascend the mountain, and then arrived
at the Hacienda de Beneficio Mineral Santo Clemente. By the
attachment of Mr. Scott to the Mint, we were accepted with
out delay at the gate, and having been first conducted to the
office of the administrador, or governor, I was introduced to
the officers of the mine, who were all Englishmen, one of
whom conducted us to the shaft, which has two mouths one
hundred yards deep. One of these was continually used, night
and day, for drawing up ores in raw hide bags, holding about
five hundred pounds each; while the other was worked in
drawing up the water from the bottom of the mine. It as
tonished me to see the amount of water drawn up in this man
ner. I was shown, on my way to Santa Clemente, a beautiful
and highly cultivated garden, that received irrigation from
the streams flowing from the mines, and was informed that so
considerable was the quantity of water afforded by the mines
of Friznillio, that it had changed the aspect of the face of the
country, from thirst and barrenness, to that of blooming
gardens, and extensive, highly cultivated fields, by only re
ceiving the quantity drawn from the shafts of the mines.
Water is the only thing the lands of Mexico need, and when
ever they receive it, the soil is covered with abundant harvests
of grain, and all verdancy covers most luxurantly the bosom
of the earth.
Bags, made of new skins, are the most desirable for drawing
up ore and water, for the reason that their own weight is
comparatively nothing to what that of wooden ones would be,
to answer a good purpose. Ropes, instead of chains, are used,
also of raw hide, it being stronger than hemp or other fabric ;
they wind round a cylinder about twenty feet in diameter,
propelled by the power of mules, as all the machinery of the
mines and mint at Zacatecas is obliged to be, in consequence
of the fact that the country about there both mountain and plain,
is so entirely divested of wood that, if all the gold and silver
produced was expended, it could not purchase fuel sufficient
to propel steam power ; the only fuel used in that section of
country beiog charcoal, brought from copsiderable distapces,
a

1?0 TRAVELS IN MEXICOt
, I much admired the employment of ropes manufactured of
hide in that dry climate, and 1 observed that all manner of
vehicles — the heavy road waggons, or the rich man's coach —
are draughted by them, in the place of traces made of heavy
leather, or of iron chaips ; besides, they have the reputatiop of
being more durable and stronger. The traveller is never an
noyed by the clank and rattling of so much metal as belongs
to the Eoglish apd Americap carriages.
From the shafts we were copdpcted ipto the ore-yard, an
area of between two and three huudred feet square. This
large yard was covered with piles of silver ore, each contain-
ipg about three bushels, apd I suppose there were at that
time more than one hundred of those heaps. The piles were
made of fragments of ore, as broken by a sledge-hammer off
the larger pieces, when drawn from the shafts. At each of
these heaps a Mexican labonrer was seated op the ground,
epgaged ip severing the large lumps into smaller ones, and I
was really entertaiped by beholding the dexterity and facility
with which the labourer would perform his task, securing by
sleight a large piece of ore between his feet, and, with both
hands hold of the helve of his hammer, lay upon it, until the
rock was shivered into fragments. These men, as they pro
gressed with their work, were also employed in separating
the rich from the poor ores, which, from their long practice,
they were enabled, most rapidly to do. Besides the labourers,
there were men of superior talent, called captains, whose
duty it was to re-examine the minerals, and, with more scru
tiny, to collect the greater from the lesser in value.
The gentleman who was conducting Mr. Scott and myself
over the haciepda, called for the chief captaip to select a va
riety of specipieps from the piles, so that I might the better
understand the nature and kind of the different ores. The
captain showed me a speciuien of the iron pyrites, which one
unacquainted with the ore, would imagine to be the most va
luable of any of the lumps contained in the piles ; for, as the
beholder perceives the large veins of gray bright metal rup-
ning through the rock, he is apt to mistake the sulphate of
iron for the genuine silver. But, agreeable to the old adage,
that "all that shines is not silver," so it is with the iron
pyrites— for notwithstanding the specimen dazzles the eye by
its superior glittering appearance, yet it contains less of the
precious metal than any other specimens to be found. The
sulphate of iron pyrites is often mistaken by the ignorant for
gold. There was also some iron pyrites containing sulphurate
of silver. Specimeps of this kind are very brilliant and rich

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. lVl
in appearance, and indeed contain more silver than the simple
iron pyrites.
The captain after a long search foupd a specimep of pative
silver, united with iron pyrites and sulphate of silver. This
specimen was not only rich, but lovely to behold — for the na
tive silver seemed to have blossomed in the shape of a rose,
and oruamented itself with slight tepdrils wipdipg apd curl-
ing most brightly and purely over the rich silvery resemblance
of the flower ; it looked to me more like the delicate art of
the silverspiith, than the work of nature. Another specimen
of iron pyrites contained silver in a state of sulphurate. It
had a beautiful aspect, looking as if it were a bright lump of
silver unmixed, and was more valuable still than the simple
iron pyrites, or those which coptained sulphate of silver.
The captain then exhibited the native silver, attached not
to reir stone, but to the rock peculiar to that country, for all
of this valuable metal was pure, unalloyed silver. It existed
in small wiry particles protruding out of the curling veins, or
otherwise appeared to have blossomed out at once in bunches.
The silver of one of these specimens had something of a yel
lowish tinge, which caused me to inquire if the silver of that
mine contained gold, when I was informed that the proportion
was so small that it was considered by the company not to be
worth the separation. These specimens were contained in
what the officer called slate-rock ; but a gentleman, more
scientific, told me that the proper appellation of it was green
stone, the abundance of which covered the mountain in many
places. To conclude my description of the ores which I saw at the
Hacienda Beneficio Mineral Santa Clement, I must say, that
under the burning Mexican sun I had never before witnessed
a more lively and desirable scene, or one more capable of pro
ducing a variety of pleasing reflections . To look down into
the bowels of the earth, from whence issued deep, sonorous
explosions of powder, followed by the distant hoarse, crash
ing, crushing sounds of the falling rocks, and then raise my
head, and cast my eyes around me, and behold the apparent
wasteful profusion of nature's wealth, made me ask myself—
Why are there any suffering poor in the world ? and my soul
responded — Treasure up not the corruptible things of this
earth, for the bliss of the happy cannot be purchased by silver
and gold ; but there is an all-perfect store, which, if secured
in the high coffers of heaven, moth can never corrupt, nor
thieves break through and steal ; and all the riches I then be
held would, but for a few years only, serve to stimulate the
appetites of the miner, the overreaching, the vicious and the

112 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.'
rphher; and it is therefore, not only vanity, but ruinous to the
true interests of the virtuous, to envy the possession of that
which was only transitory, and can never satisfy; but it was
calculated to expand the hopes of pever-satiated desires,
which were in their very nature perishable.
From the high eminence of Santa Clemente, I could look
down upon the mountain-side, and the narrow valley beneath,
without seeing a foot of soil in cultivation, excepting the green
garden which I have mentioned, as watered by a silvery tide,
flpwing from a natural fouptaip of precious metal. Apd at
thus beholdiog the vast expapse of the waste of the face of the
earth, I could but reflect how piuch more valuable to apimal
creation would have been the amount of industry, expended
in the mines, if it could have been applied to the neglected and
fertile soil of the country.
Frpm the ore-yard we were conducted to a new machine
for pulverising the mineral. The fixture was propelled by
water-power, and was supplied by a stream from the buckets
that were hoisted up from the shaft. It looked to be precisely
like all the powder-mills I have seen in the Union. There
was, at a convenient distance, a pile of poor ore, which, I was
informed, contained about one thousand bushels, and the ma
chine was continually kept in motion, crushing from that
bank. As the dust passed from under the crushers, it found
ita way to a long trough, through which flowed a constant
stream of water, by which process the particles of metal sink
to the bottom, and there remain, while at the same time the
water flowed on, dusting its bed with the silver as it descend
ed the mountain.
After we had been satisfied with all we examined, and
were about to depart from the mine, I perceived a superiu-
tendeut in a room near the large gate at the entry, running hia
hands through the hair of the heads, while his fingers passed
in and around the ears of the workman who came to him for
examination. At the first sight I thought I was about to be
ushered into the presence of some learned doctor of phrenology,
but I was soon undeceived by observing that no sooner had
one fellow's head been examined than he doffed his serapi,
showing the buff, and suffered himself to be searched all over,
even to the bottom of his sandals, (for shoes are not allowed
to be worn in the mines,) and not unfrequently bumps of
secretivoness were found, which were always extracted, and
never failed to be the richest native silver.
The workman, having undergone the scrutiny of the officer
ip the room as above described, was then dismissed, apd, as
he arrived at the gate, he there found another officer, stapding

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 173
on a mat, who also gave him a minute search, which, whep
finished, the man was suffered to make his exit from within
the walls of the mine. The officers who performed the task,
when it was over, approached the English gentleman, who
had attended us, and handed him the spoils taken in the
search, and each of them had a handful of silver. I inquired
how thefts in the mines were punished, and was informed that
this treatment was not practised, for, that if it was, the Com
pany could not obtain hands to perform the labour, as the
Mexicans do not consider it robbery to take ore. It is there
fore the look-out of the officers to detect secretions of silver
or gold, this being precisely the same principle adopted by the
blackleg, that, as it is his business to cheat, it is that of the
individual who plays with him to take care that he is not de
frauded. From Zacatecas I had an opportunity of writing, by a pri
vate conveyance, to my friends in Virginia, as Mr. Clement,
an Englishman, who had been governor of a mining-company
was going to give up his employment and take up his resi
dence in the United States. Mr. C. had been prosperous, ahd
was unwilling to educate his family in Mexico. Wherever he
may reside he will make a most worthy citizen.

174 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.

CHAPTER XIV.
Zacatecas. Cargo animals and cartera. Much disappointment.
The hotel. Meson de la Calle de Tacuba. Confined atmosphere.
Fireplaces and stoves. lee-creams. Ice-makers. Objections to
the meson. Poor fare. Mules. Fleas. Mexicans do not kill
fleas. New home, No. 43. English and American citizens,
John Bull. Minor nobles. Merit. Love of country. Ameri
cans Mexicanised. Lion and the unicorn. Society of Zacatecas.
Party of Americans. Indian news. Bold resolvo. Narrow
streets. Buried money. Romance of buried silver. Catholic
country. Tolling of bells. My servant. Region of day. Mexi
can mesons. Mexicans do not dine altogether. Spanish gentle
man. Conversation. Mexican lands. Unmasked myself. United
States and Mexico. California. Oppression of Americans. Jus
tice of my conclusions. From the position of Zacatecas. Mexico
a country of great extent. Solicitude of General Thompson.
Pleased with the face of the country. Allemade of Zacatecas.
Monument to Signor Don FraDcisco Garceraer. Doctor Jenkins.
Prisoners. Public improvements in Mexico. Punishment of
crime. Penitentiary syetem. Possession of the host. Prostra
tion of the people. A friar and his sheep. Burial of the dead
Nephew of Colonel Wilcox. System of the Mexican government
Iron of Zacatecas. Revenue of the country. Ward the dictator.
Want of fuel. United States and Mexican manufactures. Com
petition.
On the 26th instant, it being the sixth day after my arrival at
Zacatecas, my interpreter informed me that it was impossible
for him to make all the arrangements for my journey that I
required of him under ten days time. He said that there were
no cargo-animals for sale in "the city, and I would be obliged
to hire my transportation from thence to Caneles, and it would
require one more week to finish the travelling cartera, which
he had been making for me, and also that he found much diffi
culty in obtaining such servants as he could confide in.
I was much disappointed with the above iptelligepce, for it
was my ardent desire to proceed on my long journey as hastily
as possible, and it was a very uncomfortable reflection for me
to have to hire my animals to Caneles, a distance of about one
thousand miles. This would appear, to any person, to be as
costly, if not more so, than to purchase the animals in the first
instance ; but, as the American had been a long resident in
Zacatecas, and moreover had won my confidence by his gen
tlemanly deportment, I did not hesitate to believe him,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO^ 17&"
The Meson de la Calle de Tacuba had been a source of much
annoyance to me; it was a one-storied building, having a
court of a hundred feet square: the rooms were without any
kind of windows ; the simple ground-floors were cold ; and
when the doors were for any length of time closed, the at
mosphere within had a confined and earthy smell, which al
ways produced in me a suffocating sensation.
I never once beheld the comforts of a fire-place or a stove
in all Mexico, and in Zacatecas, though it was neither hot nor
cold, it was unpleasant to a northerner not to have a fire some
times, to break the perpetual chill, and produce a glow on the
surface. I had not seen a fire since I left the steamer James
Madison at New Orleans.
As I have again alluded to the climate of Zacatecas, I will
relate the fact of my hearing a huckster calling ice-cream for
sale in the streets. At a loss to imagine how ice could be ob
tained there, as the place was too far from Orizava to have it
transported thence, I inquired, and was informed that during
the month of January, in the cold, deep glens of the mountains,
where the rays of the sun least penetrated, the ice-makers, for
they are so called, place large earthen vessels, of about the
size and shape of an English tea-board, with a shallow amount
of water in them, and, as a sheet of ice forms upon the surface,
it is carefully skimmed off, and deposited in bulks for preserva
tion. And thus a supply of ice was furnished for a short
period in the year to afford a luxury for the inhabitants of
that city.
My objections to the Meson dela Calle de Tacuba were also
increased by the quantity of travelling past that place, and
the rattling and trampling of the hoofs of the mules on the
pavement, which was an annoyance intolerable to me. It
must appear evident that, to an individual who had been used
to better accommodations, it must have been a hardship to be
obliged to put up with such poor fare, besides the inconveni
ences and want of comforts.
But such are the customs of the country, and individuals
who have seen better days are bound to suffer ; and incredible
as it may seem to come, without in the least destracting from
the Mexican meson entertainment — for nothing has been said
of the eternal warfare the much to be pitied and fatigued
traveller has towage against the fleas; the houses are filled
with these vermin, who do not hesitate, upon your entering
into their apartments, to form an intimate acquaintance with
you, skin deep ; and indeed I have had them so remarkably
social and fond of me, that they were hopping and skipping
about upon my journal, while I have beep taking my notes.

176 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
The common Mexicans do not on any occasion destroy these
insects, for they say, as Uncle Toby did of the fly, that the
world is big enough for them and the fleas too.
My interpreter, to reconcile me to my long delay at Za
catecas, rented rooms at a reasonable rate, each of which had
a window, as well as a door to them, and having also a loca
tion upon the street and exposed to the sun. This I turned
to an advantage, for whenever I found the shade too cool I
had an easy refuge to the sunshine. Having become settled
in our new home, No. 43 Calle de Aroiba — that is, the upper
street — I determined to employ myself by walking the streets.
As it was impossible for me to enjoy the society of the
Spaniards or Mexicans, with any degree of pleasure, both for
the want of acquaintance and my deficiency in their ianguage,
for the .Spanish cannot be learned in a day, I satisfied myself
by the delight I had in looking at the ladies as I passed along,
and in turn being stared at as a stranger.
However, I did not find myself altogether without society,
for there were many English here, and some Americans, to
whom I was soon introduced. I always perceived that,
wherever I met with foreigners, some peculiarities attached
to theui, and more especially as it regards the English and
the Americans.
In the first place, John Bull invariably denounced himself
primo, and never failed to swagger and play the aristocrat
more than others, and if he was only a clerk at a hacienda
beneficio, his deportment was more consequential and osten
tatious among the republicans of Mexico, than even that of
the Minister Plenipotentiary was at the capital. His pride al
ways seems to consist in rendering himself as much as pos
sible foreign to the people he resides among ; and to one ac
quainted with English manners and customs, it was some
what diverting to behold those minor nobles, with Spanish
mustache and antiquated European dress, something French,
and part English, stiffly holding themselves up as models of
elegance and debonair of manners ; it never fails to remind
me of the pithy saying of " like master, like man," examples
of which are often seen among the slaves of the south, in
the United States. Their conversation is always interesting,
by being flavoured with declarations of their relationship with
my Lord Dowdy, or some Earl, or Baron — while their bro
thers or cousins are always better to do in the world than
themselves, either being officers in the British army or navy.
The English are the most powerful people on earth, and I
am glad that the inhabitants of the United States, and par
ticularly those of the Old Dominion, are descendants from

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 177
them ; but I am also rejoiced that the minds of my country
men are elevated above that sycophancy which knows no
merit, saving a name derived from those who never knew, or
would deign to look upon them. I admire the love of country
that dwells in the bosoms of Englishmen, and would to God
that the hearts of all Americans were as true to the sacred
principles of their constitutional liberty, as the English are to
the Queen of Britain's isle. I must also add that in some in
stances I met with Americans who had become Mexicanised,
who appeared to value more the lion and the unicorn, than
the stars and stripes ; and my interpreter being one of these, I
had to remind him of his good whig parentage. It was never
theless a comfort to me to meet with Americans or English
men, who could speak my mother tongue, for no one can ima
gine the unpleasantness, without experiencing the condition
of having to travel in a foreign country, the language of whose
people he cannot understand ; for he then recounts his coun
trymen and friends, with whom he once so familiarly con
versed, in the same manner as a person labouring under a burn
ing fever is reminded of the cooling fountains from whence he
has satisfied his thirst.
However the society at Zacatecas was good, and very
agreeable. Among its number were two English physicians,
who were very intelligent and polite gentlemen, but their pro
fessional services were said to be little wanted in that city,
saving for casualties, as it was very healthy, being represented
to be more so than perhaps any other city or country. It hap
pened that, upon the day of my removal to No. 43, a party of
three Americans arrived at Zacatecas, from the northern pro
vinces, and confirmed the previous news, that the Camanchos
were making incursions upon the upper departments, killing
and plundering the inhabitants to a considerable extent.
The Indians have on several occasions descended as far as
between the cities of Zacatecas and Durango, on the very
track that I should have to travel, and that too without re
sistance, for the reason that Santa Anna had withdrawn all
the troops from the frontiers, to sustain himself in power at
home, and to make the Northern provinces a wilderness, in
habited alone by barbarous Indians, to prevent Mexicans from
making settlements, and thus cut off the emigration of
foreigners to those regions ; as also to seal more effectually
the order prohibiting the residence of Americans in the Cali-
fornias ; and, therefore, if I should be so fortunate as to escape
a cruel murder by the lawless Mexicans who infest the high-
Ways, I could hove no good reason to anticipate protection
H 5

178 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.'
from the merciless Camanche Indians. But since I had com
menced the hazardous undertaking, notwithstanding the dif
ficulties and dangers that my enterprise was obliged to en
counter, and as there was no retreat for me, unless I should
be reckless of being covered with the shame of cowardice, I,
upon every examination of myself, boldly resolved that I
would perish, or else overcome every obstacle, and make good
my residence at the far-distant port of San Francisco, where
I would conceive it to be the best deed of my life to protect
the commerce and the citizens of the United States.
The streets of Zacatecas are narrow, crooked and singular,
owing to the city being confined by mountains. I could not
at any time have an extensive view of any street, and for this
reason it required that I should exercise myself the more by
walking, so that I might see every thing desirable, and form
an opinion as to what contrast Zacatecas bore to other towns
that I had seen.
In my rambles here I was shown a mountain along the sides
of which the old road ran, where it is said a large amount of
money had been buried by a band of robbers, who long since
infested Zacatecas ; but as the banditti had been suddenly cut
off, without leaving any one of them to divulge the secret
where the treasure had been deposited, the present inhabitants
had from time to time failed, in fruitless researches, and ex
penditure of large capital, in securing it. Many are the ex
cavations made by the credulous yet visible, in tho forlorn hope
of finding perhaps that which had never been secreted.
There is no country in the world, and especially among
superstitious nations but where there exist some romances of
buried silver and gold. Doubtless the above legend was got
ten up to excite the wonder of the curious, and encourage the
ignorant to hunt for that which never had an existence, with
the hope that they might be so fortunate as to discover a new
vein of silver, nature's hidden treasure.
My visit to Mexico, being the first time I had ever been
in a Catholic country, it was with some surprise that, where-
ever I went, the ringing of the church-bells predominantly at
tracted my attention — and not until I reached Zacutecas, did
I come to an understanding of the different ringings and tell
ings. I had hoped that, when I left the city of Mexico, my
slumbers and meditations would pot agaip have been disturbed
by having to listen to the unusual and hourly tolling of bells ;
but, upon my arrival at Zacatecas, it being the only town of
any consequence I had stopped at for some days, I was obliged
every half hour to put my finger to my ears, and shout out to
my servant to know " Si la diablo a Santa Anna habia arri-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO." 1?S
bage," — If the devil or Santa Anna had arrived — which ap*
peared to divert my map very much, whep he would, with all
the devotedness of religious feelings, to the great amusement
of my interpreter, commence an explanation of the different
sounds. Sometimes they were for mass — for the Mexicans re
ceive this every morning at eight o'clock; and I have seen, on
such occasions, the churches so much crowded, that many
would be kneeling in front and around the building, catching,
in the most profound reverence, every low tone of the organ,
as well as the solemn voice of the distant officiating priest
within. Sometimes the tolling was for the souls of some de
ceased rich person; for none but those who can pay, receive
that honour. To an individual seated in his room, the slow
and deep tones of the bells seem to be answered from cupola
to belfry, as if each felt the distressing pang of death, until
the distant echoings of the mournful sound would die away
upon the ear, producing a sadness of feeling in the listener,
while he couid imagine that he beheld the first heavings of the
bosom of the deceased, in the agonies of death, until the last
breath had flown, and the pulse had ceased to vibrate, and all
was over.
Notwithstanding there was a ceaseless ding-dong uproar
going on ; yet the most troublesome of all, at the same time
I will confess it was sometimes a pleasure, was the an
nouncing the approach of the meridian of day. The inhabit
ants are warned, for thirty minutes before the hour of twelve
that the king of day was about to be poised just above them,
by the bells, of most indifferent tones, wishing to ring, being
irregularly struck by a wooden hammer, which produced
smothered, distressing sounds, as if to give an alarm, but
were half way prevented by not having full power of speech.
At length, however, the blows would become more regular,
and were answered by a distant bell, more audible, and yet
another, and another, until a climax approached, when all the
brass in the place seemed to be crushing to pieces — and pre
cisely at the moment of meridian time, the brain is pained by
the confused noise, as if the world was summoned to judgment
then there is a sudden relief, produced by the big torn of the
principal church giving, in deep sonorous tones, three taps,
when all the bells are silent, as if called to order by the voice
of majesty. Then is heard the time of day, the peal of 12
o'clock, during "which the inhabitants will stand uncovered.
The bells alone do not proclaim the advance of day, for the
band of the garrison is ready, when the last stroke of twelve
is sounded, to rejoice, with musical strains, in the march of
diurnal time ; after this there is a slight frolic among the bells

J80 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
and the noise ceases. The rising and going down of the sun
is likewise celebrated, which they call the oration.
In Mexican mesons the boarders do not dine together, but
each one sends his servant for his meals, or goes himself into
the public room of the fonda at any hour he chooses, and is
there furnished with as many dishes as he may like to call for,
and although there may be others dining at the same time, it
is pot ope commop mess where all are fed fropi the same dish,
but each ope has his peculiar dish, unmolested by any others.
Happening to dine one day in this manner, I fell in company
with an old Spanish gentleman who could speak English, and
we had not been long in the room before we exchanged looks,
when he enquired of me if I came by the way of the United
States. I replied that I embarked at New Orleans for Vera
Cruz. He said his residence was far from the Atlantic coast,
and that it had been a long time since he received any intelli
gence from Europe or the United States. Having satisfied his
inquiries as to the English Union Jack affair, he then wished
me to tell him what was the tone of feeling of the people of
the Union towards Mexico, and if the government did not
wish to make war upon that country, saying, that he had un
derstood that the American Congress was desirous of obtaining
the Mexican lands, so that they might increase the revenues of
the treasury.
Having heard the statements of the old gentleman, I did
not hesitate to unmask myself, and informed him that I was a
native of the United States, and not, as he supposed, an English
man ; and that I was fiom one of the middle States. I told him
that the people of the Union sympathised with their republican
brethren of Mexico, and rejoiced with them whenever they
made an advance in liberal principles, for Americans not only
loved civil liberty and justice at home, but admired the people
of any clime who have followed the glorious examples of love
of freedom and independence, which a Washington inspired
his countrymen with; and that the people, as well ns the
government of America, could have no other feelings for
Mexico, than those of kindness, notwithstanding passed wrongs
in respect for the weakness uud revolutionary condition of her
neighbour; and that the United States chose rather to pity than
to crush her ; that the policy of the United States had never been
that of conquest, and that she would sooner submit to some
ills, than heap heavier calamities upon others; and therefore
Mexico had nothing to fear from the ambition of the United
States, so long as she did not infringe upon the laws of nations
or break existing treaties.
J related to him that Mexico had never had cause to make

JRAVELS IN MEXICO, 181
n complaint or ask an indemnity of the Union, but that on the
contrary, my government had to suffer delayed negociation
with her, for remuneratian for the many spoliations committed
by the Mexican authorities upon the commerce and the private
property of citizens of the United States, all of which our
people had endured, and no disposition was shown on the part
of our government to retaliate by declaration of war, in con
sideration of which kindness, the Dictator and his Minister
of War and Marine had issued a decree expelling Americans
from three Departments and the Californias, without ,any
known cause, or their having been suspected of molesting the
peace of society.
I could but add that unbounded pity and mercy were alone
the attributes of the deity, and that the government of the
United States, agreeable to the dictates of human reason,
would have a stopping point for her lenity in enduring accu
mulating insults, injuries and wrongs, which would have to be
atoned for ; and if the people of Mexico did not look to the
misrule of their usurpers, the Union would have to take into
consideration what course to adopt by which she might live
in reciprocity of good respect with her sister republic ; and
that whatever her exasperated citizens may have done, the go
vernment has never encouraged a spirit of ill will in the minds
of its people against the inhabitants of any country: it deals
not in invective or threats, but rather attempts to persuade
and entreat others to act justly, and in the timely moment its
angry war-spirited eye is no more to be feared than disre
garded. Texas was then free and independent, and if in fu
ture time she should wish to hover under the wing of the
American Eagle, it would be labour lost, on the part of
Mexico, to make objections.
The old Spaniard seemed to admit the justice of my conclu
sions, and replied that he was pleased to be informed, that the
American people were not disposed to make war upon Mexico
for the purpose of taking away the land from individual
owners, and that for himself, notwithstanding the citizens of
the Union, to his own knowledge, had often suffered, he was
of the opinion that there was every good reason for the two
republics to live in harmony, if it was not for the demagogues
and aspirants to power in Mexico, who had not only distracted
their own peopl?, but were continually breaking treaties
formed with other powers, or else in their recklessness, in
sulting nations with perfect wantonness. He said also, that
be hoped their deeds would not be attributed to tho Mexicans
ns a people, but to the military despotism, by which they were
governed.

182 TRAVELS IN MEXICOj
From the position of Zacatecas, it being the point where
all travel to the city of Mexico, Tampico, or the northern
departmepts, centered, it was agreeable for me, sometimes to
fipd a countryman journeying in some direction of the com
pass, from the most of whom I heard complaints of the indif
ferent treatment they had received from the authorities.
Whether these allegations were strictly true, I cannot, by my
own knowledge, testify, for, I had not up to that period of my
journey, had cause to complain of oppression from Mexican
offioers, and as for the reception which I had everywhere met
with, from citizens as well as those in power, it had been of
the most hospitable and polite character, though at the same
time it Plight have had its origin in respect to the commission
in my pocket, and not to the citizen of the United States.
It should be remembered that Mexico is a country of great
extent, about three thousand miles, and that the few Ameri
cans who are scattered over it, might not only have their
privileges infringed on, but their persons imprisoned without
cause or remedy, as was the case in the department of Sonora,
as before mentioned, at a distance of fifteen hundred miles
from the minister of the United States, and for the reason
of the wide separation from the legation, of the commission of
a hostile act, the minister can never have an immediate know
ledge of what has happened, so that he might remonstrate.
The unfortunate individuals who may have had their pro
perty or their liberties wrested from them, are almost effectu
ally barred from all hopes of redress, in communicating the
facts to the American legation, as there are now no consuls in
the interior, for the reasons of the distance from the city of
Mexico, and that letters by the mails from Americans are in
tercepted, as has been charged by the sufferers. Therefore,
long after the commital of one of our citizens to prison, for or
without an alleged offence, it is only incidentally known by
his execution, or a cruel death, consequent to the diseases pro
duced by confinement.
The question may arise, why do not American citizens,
when they have suffered the loss of property, visit the seat of
government and urge in person their complaint ? The answer
is, that the individual, bereft of means, and broken hearted, in
the first place, feels an indifference common to the unfortunate,
and as Mexico is the most dangerous and expensive country
in the world to travel in, he could never hope to meet the
minister, if he met him at all, with respect. It most generally
happens that ruined persons are obliged, under such circum
stances, to use daily efforts for a living: precisely in the same
manner as the unsuspecting, uncalculating, honest-hearted

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 183
citizen, who, to meet a momentary relief, is wheedled out of
his estate by the usurer, and when all his property has va
nished, before his benighted infatuation is awakened, he finds
himself defenceless, being too poor for litigation ; and thus,
with a stubborn spirit, sinks to the scorn of the proud into his
grave. It may not be improper, at the present time, to express my
unfeigned pleasure in having it in my power to testify to the
marked solicitude which General Thompson felt for the wel
fare and the protection of his fellow countrymen : for during
all my stay at the city, I can affirm, that in the frequent meet
ings I had with him, his deportment was always gentlemanly,
familiarly easy, and ardently friendly to all Americans ; while,
at the same time, his every consideration seemed to be en
grossed in the perplexing and vexatious negotiations he was
obliged to carry on with a prejudiced and insulting govern
ment, located in the cranium of a Dictator, and his sycophantic
myrmidons. Notwithstanding some Americans have complained of cruel
and barbarous treatment, yet I found some who, like myself,
are, in general, pleased with the country and the climate of
Mexico, as also satisfied with the polite and hospitable recep
tion they meet with from the inhabitants, both foreigners and
natives. It was not until the 29th instant, that I visited the pleasant
retreat of the Alemada of Zacatecas. This is a lovely and
romantic place. It is sufficient in length, but not in breadth.
However this is not to be attributed to a want of good taste
on the part of the citizens, for the Alemade, confined as it is
between two mountains, is the only level spot of land within
the compass of the city. It is in the form of an eliptic circle,
having round it a stone wall, and laid off with two pro
menades, and a carriage way around it. There is an abun
dance of shrub and flower on the borders of the walks, and
the whole is shaded by trees, receiving their irrigation from
a large fountain in the centre. On each side of the Alemade,
a little rising the mountain, there is a church, which adds
much to the picturesque scene. Upon looking up at one of
those churches I discovered through the branches of the trees,
a monument situated in the front of the edifice, and, on my
ascending to the honorary pile, I perceived from the epitaph
that it was erected in honour and to the memory of Senor
Don Francisco Garcier, who was governor of the department
of Zacatecas, when it was taken by Santa Anna, in 1833. The
bronze bust of the patriot is said to be a good likeness of the
original, and was cast from an impression taken in plaster of

184, TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Paris, by Dr. Jenkins, an English physician, who attended
the deceased in his last illness. With him, the Zacatecans
say, departed Rienzi, the last of the Romans.
On my return from the Alemade, I met a large body of
prisoners, who, Dr. Jenkins informed me, were the united
brethren, being all manacled together, two and two. I have
ever noticed, in every town apd village through which I
passed, numerous gangs chained ip a like manner, and it
should be remembered that those poor wretches were not the
volunteers for the army, but prisoners of war and of crime,
Buffering the penalties of their different offences. The sight
of these human beings is truly distressing, for through the in
difference of their garments could be easily perceived the
weight of their irons.
The penalty in Mexico, for all misdemeanours against the
law, is hard labour upon the streets and the public highways,
excepting such as where the law or the will of the judge re
quires death. The public improvements are all indebted to
the prisoners for their completion ; for, if a street is to be
paved, a road to be made, or a bridge to be built, the prisoner
is the labourer, and in this way, the cost to the~public is not
taken so much into consideration as if the work had to bo let
out to the lowest bidder, and paid for, when finished, in hard
dollars and cents ; but, on the contrary, the Commonwealth,
in its expenditures, is but collecting its dues, for the prisoners
owe an amount of toil which is obliged to be liquidated, for
they must return tho price required of them for tlie wicked
ness they have committed ; and Mays are devised, us above
mentioned, for them to comply with their obligations ; and in
this manner the public works have been pursued, for the
Mexicans have never been famed for bridge, turnpike, or canal
companies. It has been a question which the mild institutions of the
United States gave rise to, whether it would be better for the
punishment of crimes not deserving death, to make scavengers
and labourers of criminals upon the the highways, exposed to
public view, or else to confine them closely in dark dungeons
for meditation and repentance, or keep them employed within
the walls of the prison.
The moral influence with the penitentiary system has over
the offender, is acknowledged to be the best that has ever been
adopted in any country, to punish the guilty for his crime, and
give ample opportunity for inward and outward atonement.
Still it has been urged that the exposing method U better cal
culated to deter the innocent from falling into the examples of
the criminal, by having the punishment of crime before their

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 185
view. It is contended by some that the guilty never reform
under the chastisement of the law, and that degraded as he
must ever be, by having suffered a penalty before the public
eye, he never can feel encouraged afterwards to return to the
paths of rectitude and virtue.
It is a source of complaint in some of the States that, owing
to the considerable number of convicts who are kept indus
triously at work within the walls of the penitentiaries, the
honest mechanic is injured, by glutting the markets with the
articles of his peculiar manufacture ; and that the penitentiary
system is an injury to the citizen, who is obliged to pay out
of his pocket a tax to support a competition in the business
by which he derives his bread : and thus, undesignedly, the
law, in its incongruity, oppresses the innocent in punishing
the guilty. But, the statute, like all other human devices, has
its inconsistencies ; and in the mother of States I have seen in
one of her corporations, the public authorities sell at auction
the vagrant; and the policeman, for a trifle, becoming the
purchaser, would bind the new-made white slave, and force
him to labour on the public highways ; while the iaWs of the
same State, in commendable mercy, incarcerate in prison, from
the odium of the gaze of the world, him who has committed
tho basest of offences. I only mention these facts to show
that, in the wisdom of making laws, the vagrant is, in my
opinion, more severely punished, in Virginia, than the thief or
the murderer.
On my return to No. 43, 1 was aroused by the sound of a
small hand-bell ; and as there are no such pursuits as auctions
in Mexico, I felt determined to know its meaning, and upon
looking out I perceived the host on its way to some penitent
upon a dying bed. For the benefit of those who have never
witnessed a scene of the kind, I will attempt to describe it,
and if I should err in any particular, I trust that the good
Catholic brethren will excuse me, for I can testify to what I
have seep, pot that I upderstood the solemp performance.
When I had gaiped the fropt window of my room, I beheld
a coach drawn by mules, called the Holy Ghost carriage,
which is kept at a church exclusively for religious purposes.
In it was seated a priest, on the back seat, reading a small
book, and before him were two boys dressed in scarlet robes,
holding burning candles in their hands. To the rear of the
coach were formed two lines, of about ten in each, who all
had candles, and between these lines was a youth with a bell
which he tinkled slowly ; while behind was a motley crowd,
which looked neither religious, civilized, nor savage. As the
whole procession advanced, ail the people, both in the street

186 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
and the houses, fell upon their kpees, with hapds crossed upon
their bosoms, from which positiop they did pot rise uptil the
holy father had passed. I was ipformed that, upon the arrival
of the coach at the house of the afflicted, the right holy map
would descend, and, with the cross in his hand, approach the
bed-side of the deceased, where, after confession, the sacra
ment was administered, and having received the forgiveness
and the benedictions of the father, the soul was prepared for
the mansions of the blessed.
There was a friar who resided near my lodgings, of whom I
observed that, whenever he rode or walked out, a sheep of
pure long wool would always accompany him. So far from
this being a ludicrous scene, it did appear to me as if there
was a good moral lesson in the aspect of the friar and his
favourite — for no one, of christian information, could look
upon the innocent countenance of the one, and the pious face
of the other witliout being reminded of the meek and lowly
lamb who was slain for the redemption of mankind.
The friar belonged to the Guadaloupe order, called the
Gray Friars, who are the missionaries and preachers of the
Gospel, and I was informed were the only clergy in Mexico,
who could have any pretensions to virtue and piety. In con
sequence of the high estimation in which these friars are held,
they are always shrouded in one of their gowns, if it could be
obtained — and, indeed, it was believed, that death was in a
great degree robbed of its sting, by the dying knowing that
they were to be buried in a Gray friar's cloak, and a good purse
do they have to pay, who are so fortunate as to secure this ha
bit, more especially if it has ever been worn by the holy man.
Since I have alluded to the burying of the dead, I will
mention an enormity of crime that I never heard had an exist-
tence in any other country than Mexico. The grave there
cannot escape the ladrone, and therefore the dead are never
buried with anything thai might be accounted of utility or
value, in order to prevent the otherwise inevitable disinter
ment of the deceased, as was the case with the remains of the
nephew of the American consul general, Colonel Wilcox.
The gray cloak is too sacred and worthless a garment for
the pious thieves to disturb, and besides, they are aware that
they have to make confession of the deed.
The coffins at Mexico are not made like ours, peaked at both
ends, but point at the foot, and expand to the head in the
shape of a wedge. The poor are buried in what is called an
" universal coffin," by the body of the deceased being carried
to the grave in a box belonging to the public. When the
corpse arrives at the grave, it is rolled out of the bier cofflp

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 187
into its shallow home ; and, in a state of pature, has the clods
heaped over it.
Before closing this chapter, I wish to remark that I have
devoted as piuch attention as to any other one thiog, to the sys
tem of the government of the republic of Mexico, and I have at
tentively marked the deleterious effects of the different points
of misrule upon the prosperity of the country. My exclusive
object is to make a correct statement of the political and
other affairs of unhappy Mexico that I may deem most promi
nent, so that those who are desirous may have a true de
tail of the state and standing of our sister republic ; and this
I cannot do without disregarding all application that may be
made of the facts to our own government or any other.
My friend Mr. Scott, of the mint, said that iron in Zacatecas
was worth twenty-five cents per pound, which was more
than had to be given for brass, and that it was as necessary
to weigh it to his workmen as silver, for they would as soon
steal the one as the other. The high value of iron is alone
accounted for, without a difference of opinion, to the protec
tive system.
Prohibitory duties are indiscriminately levied upon all hard
wares, by Santa Anna. There is an abundance of iron ore in
Mexico, said to be of excellent quality ; but, for the want of
fuel, it cannot, but at a few places, be manufactured — and
that only by repdering it more valuable than the precious
metals. Stone coal has never been discovered in any portion
of the country, and it would require the fostering care of cen
turies to cultivate forests sufficient to supply the land with
that all important article, wood, which is necessary for ma
nufacturing purposes. The revenues of the country being en
tirely lopped off by a commerce with foreign nations, the ex
penses of government were attempted to be met by distinct
taxation, and the bonus exacted from the monopoly of manu
factures. It was said to have been no difficult matter to reward the
Dictator's private pocket, that the public coffers might be de
frauded of its just dues. The individual happiness of the
people had never once been consulted, and in consequence of
the inability of a majority of the inhabitants to meet the prices
of wares and merchandise, the Mexicans were compelled to
return to their garments of leather and skins, in which the
first revolution found them.
But for the want of fuel Mexico, in justice to itself, can
never become a manufacturing country generally, whereas if
this natural deficiency were once removed, she might, with
the hope of success, compete with other natioos — for the price

183 TRAVELS HI MEXIOJ.
of labour, the great obstacle in the way of the United States
manufacturer, would be obviated, by its being abundant and
cheap, perhaps as much so as with any other poor and oppres
sed people.
The fanner in Mexico never has to pay more than six dol
lars, one peck of corn, and a half a peck of beans per month
for his field-hands ; while the old, the young, and the females
are obtained at diminished rates. I am persuaded, from my
observations of that country, and the knowledge of my own,
that nothing can be so self-evident as that neither tlie one nor
the other can ever come into a successful competition with
the old world, where fuel and labour are the most abundant
of their resources — and that for either, or both' of them, to
attempt to carry out the principle, will only be to force their
articles of manufacture upon their own population, as is the
case in Mexico, at exorbitant prices ; for European nations
can afford to sell cheaper, and must for ages monopolize the
commerce of the world.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 189

CHAPTER XV.
My interpreter. Acquainted my interpreter with the knowledge I
possessed. His remonstrance. Should depart in two days. Letter
of introduction to Mr. John Kimble. Letters of introduction.
Departed from Zacatecas. Caratilla. Unmanageable mule.
Malanoche, the (bad night mountain). Upsetting of caratilla.
My ribs injured and interpreter's collarbone broken. Confu
sion. Retrograde motion. No. 43. Interpreter notable for
fatigue. My resolve. Second departure from Zacatecas. De
manded my cash. Money misBing. Money found. My jour
ney. March to Frisnillo. Ride in a Spanish saddle. House
of Mr. Kimble. Opinions of Mr. Kimble. Egregiously im
posed upon. Recommends an interpreter. Hacienda de la
Benefieio Minerale. Expenses. Crushing machine. Grinding
mill. Great Square. Quicksilver. Copper bell. Silver casted
solid lumps. Mint. Weighing of the metal. Tho mines of
Z:icatecas and Frisnello. Took leave of Mr. Kimble. LostJ
Encounter with a Mexican. Two young men. My troubles.
Coffee. Mr. K. and my interpreter. Interpreter an intelligent
man. Departure from Frisnillo. Grotesque appearance. A
band of robbers. Bones bleached* on the plains. Uneasiness of
my interpreter. Bound to Sain Alto. Become used to a Spanish
saddle. Threw myself from my mule. Exchange saddles. Al
calde's cane. Administration of oaths. Sufferings increased.
Eat heartily at Chili. Sain Alto. Dinner. Chocolate. Settlement
of bill. Quarrel. Warm country. Maquey. Pulque. Three
men upon the plain. My gloves. Tableland. A nipple of a
mountain. Narrow defile. Sombrenete. Demanded water. Mule
knocked the tumbler.
It was not many days after my removal to 43, that I made
the important discovery that my delay in Zacatecas was not
caused by the preparations making by my interpreter for my
journey to the Caneles, but that, like an enterprising Yankee,
who perceived a speculation that might accrue from the sale of
a few stoves and clocks in that city, he had had some im
ported from New York, which had just arrived in time to save
their distance from being rendered contraband, and he was
profitably employed in selling his merchandise, so ingeniously
smuggled, under the pretext of devoting his time in my em"
ployment. When this fact was imparted to me I acquainted him, with
out delay, of the knowledge I possessed, and assured him that
I should discharge him from my service. However, his re-<

190 TRAVELS IN MEXICO*
monstrances prevailed over my objections, for he made him
self out to be as pure as an angel of light ; and, as I was
obliged to have" an interpreter, I resolved to be more watch
ful of my countryman, and cause him to apswer my purpose,
as a pative, by givipg him to uuderstapd that he had lost my
coofidepce, apd that I acknowledged po friend but my Toledo-
blade, and my six-barreled pistols ; for that my travels in the
country had sufficiently satisfied me that reliance upon apy
other resource, for honest protection, was folly.
My interpreter assured me that we should take our depart
ure in two days' time, for then, he said, my cartera would be
finished, with all the accompanying bed-clothing. He also
stated, that he had purchased one horse, and hired ten mules
for transportation ; but as the plains on the way to Durango
were of a champaign character he had put himself to the
trouble of obtaining, for my comfort, a caratilla for us to ride
in. And as he could not consent to be idle, he said, he would
have time to make sale of some watches he had in his pos
session. » A few days after my arrival at Zacatecas I presented a
letter of introduction I had been politely furnished with by an
Irish gentleman in the city of Mexico, to Mr. John Kimble, of
Frisnillo. Mr. K. I found to be a perfect gentleman, and a
native of New Hampshire. During his residence in Zacatecas
he had become wedded to a lovely Mexican lady. Although
he was a resident of Frisnillo, where he was administrador of
the haciendo mineral of that town, yet I was so fortunate as
to meet him here, and present my letter. Through him I had
to acknowledge my obligations for the favour of a letter from
his lady to Ami Senora Da Fernino Bernal Lakeman, of the
city of Durango. This lady is the niece of the late renowned
General Bolivar, of South America, and the wile of an Ameri
can. I was likewise indebted to him for letters from Don
Antonio Castrillon, judge ; to Al S'r. Sic'o D. Fernando Rami-
res, a distinguished lawyer, and ex-deputy of Mexico. The
respected judge also did me the favour and honour to address
a letter to Al Cesnio S'r. Gobernadey Commandante Jeneral
D' Jose Antonio Heredia ; and the Hon. Bocanegra, secretary
of foreign relations for Mexico, had, previous to my leaving
the capitol, tendered me another, with a request that he would
do every thing in his power to forward my intentions. The
prefect, Sr. Sic. D. Viviano Beltraur likewise honoured me
with a letter of introduction to a distinguished lawyer, of the
city of Durango.
Everything being in complete preparation, my interpreter
and self took our seats in the caratilla for our departure, on

TRAVELS IN MEXICO; 191
the morning of the first day of February, cheered with the
hope that the journey would be a speedy and delightful one.
However, on our very set-out, we experienced an ill omen, or
mortification, produced by the obstreperousness of one of the
cargo-mules, who would daBh into every cross street and lane,
much to the fright of the citizens he surprised, while the ser
vants would spur after him with their lassoes, exclaiming
angrily, Diablo animal, (devil animal). We at length suc
ceeded in passing through the city, after having attracted
crowds to witness our perplexity. No sooner had we passed
the last house of the city than we commenced the ascent of
the Malanoche, (bad night mountain,) and we had scarcely
got half-way up it, than, in defiance of all the drivers, the
diablo animal turned and inn into the city again, which
manoeuvre caused more vexatious delay. After a while, how
ever, the mouse-coloured mule was recovered, when our jour
ney was resumed.
The Malanoche is of great height, and travelled by a road
constructed by an English engineer, and made by the prisoners.
The top being gained, and our descent commenced, I per
ceived that all was not right, and quickly directed my inter
preter to command the driver to halt, but, as soon, the
wretched contrivance upset. We were sitting in the omni
bus-fashion, face to face, and as tlie turn was to the right, the
left shoulder of my interpreter lodged against my side so vio
lently as to injure two of my ribs. The American received
the greatest damage, his collar-bone being badly broken. I
first succeeded in extricating myself, by passing under the
heels of the harnessed mules, and immediately proceeded to
tear away obstructions and rescue my interpreter, who, in
agony, was calling loudly for help, which, when done, I had
time to look about and behold the scene. Marcellino, the
driver, was bleeding at the nose, while the other servants
were speechless, standing by, as if they were at mass or a
burial. The animals had scattered over the mountain-side,
while guns, swords and pistols, as well as Bowie-knives,
were strewed all around.
My journey was destined, from the misfortune that had
overtaken me, to have a retrograde motion, and, with much
anxiety for my interpreter, we hastened back to Zacatecas,
my own distress measurably overcome by sympathy for his
sufferings. Stopping again at No. 43, Dr. Jenkins attended
and used his professional services for us.
The excitement of the occasion having subsided, my mind
naturally reverted to the long journey before me, and the

192 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
difficulties to be overcome. My interpreter, with his frac
ture, would not be able to proceed, perhaps, for twenty or
thirty days, which time, to be lost, would have interfered
much with my arrangements, and I, therefore, determined not
to remain for his recovery, whatever inconvenience or pain it
might cost pie ; and I accordingly ordered the necessary pre
parations to be made for my departure on horseback.
Previous to my second departure from Zacatecas, disagree
able facts came to my knowledge, respecting my interpreter.
In the first instance, having demanded my cash of him, which
for safety and convenience, I had deposited in his carpet bag,
I found a deficiency in the sum I placed there, of two hundred
dollars, which I made known to him, but received an answer
that the money had been expended for necessaries. I had
been careful in paying out my cash to take vouchers for all my
expenditures, and instantly called him to account for a general
settlement. Having clearly demonstrated his dishonesty, I de
clared to him that I would bring before him the most respect
able of the foreigners of the city, and, in his presence, prove
the fraud and theft. The penitent man wept, and implored me
not to expose him, for he was willing to return me my money ;
and he did make good one hundred and forty dollars, pro
mising me the remaining sixty at the moment of my departure.
True to his nature, however, he managed to secure that
amount to himself, and, rather than be longer troubled, and
detained by him, I was advised to consent to its loss, with
mortified regret and vexation.
On the 4th instant, I commenced again my journey, my
friend, Mr. Scott, accompanying me a short distance. The
mountain past, the plain was a dead level. My day's travel
was uninterrupted by any other incident worthy of remark.
The road had also a company of troopers, who were on their
way returning to Frisnillo, from having conducted a large
amount of silver to Zacatecas. The soldiers upon the plain
rendered travelling, upon that day, comparatively safe. By
two o'clock I had ended my journey, and upon dismounting
at the meson, I discovered that my ride in the Spanish saddle
had greatly unmanned me ; for, from the erect and forward in
clined ppsition I had for several hours been obliged to main
tain, (for there are no changes or shifts to be made ip one of
these saddles,) piy bones ached, while my muscles were all
cramped. Previous to my separation from Mr. Scott, I requested of
him to direct ope of my servants to conduct pie, on my arrival
at Frisnillo, to the house of Mr. Kimble. After having rested

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 193
a short time I accompanied my servant to the hacienda bene-
ficio mineral ; for that proved to be the residence of my" Ameri-r
can friend.
On my meeting with him, and acquainting him with the
misfortunes that had befallen me. and my being compelled to
travel witliout an interpreter, he appeared much concerned,
and replied that, though I was not very unfortunate in parting
with my first engagement, yet he considered it to be almost
impossible for me to accomplish my journey without ap inter
preter, as there were numberless obstacles that I knew nothing
of to meet me on the way, and being unacquainted with the
Spanish language, my property and life Were at hazard.
Mr. Kimble informed me that our countryman and the Eng
lishman, of whom my animals had been obtained, had grievr
ously imposed on me, but that I would have to make the best
of a bad bargain. He said that the only individual he knew
who could speak English, was an American, who had been in
his service but a short period, and fiom his limited know
ledge of him he could not recommend his services as being
what I desired. But, as I would have no opportunity of em
ploying an interpreter before reaching Durango, I was induced
to take him along.
Mr. Kimble related that my countryman had some peculiari
ties, as he had been residing, in an obscure manner, for seven
teen years with the lowest class of Mexicans, and had for
gotten much of his mother-tongue. He therefore advised me
to be upon my guard, and not to give him an opportunity of
deceiving me.
I was conducted by the polite Mr. Kimble over his hacienda
beneficio mineral, the largest one in the world, and where
more silver was manufactured than at any other hacienda
known. This mine is the only one worked to any profitable
extent in the whole country that entirely belongs to a Mexi
can company. To give my readers an understanding of its
magnitude, and the consequent expenditures of raising the
ores, and reducing them to silver, Mr. K. assured me that it
required an outlay of fifty thousand dollars per week to con
duct its operation. The mine is worked by steam-power, the
fuel costing fourteen dollars per cord.
The administrador conducted me first to the crushing apart
ment. In this extensive room were many tons of ore, depo
sited in the condition in which it was brought from the mine.
The ore resembled fragments of stone, fresh hammered for a
macadamised road, each piece large enough to pass through
an inch ring. In this form it is thrown under the crushing
I

194 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
mill to be pulverised. This machine is similar to a powdet
mill, with the exception that the beams are heavier and closer
together. Having gone through the process of crushing, the
ore is removed to the grinding mills, and in this hacienda there
are many.
The grinding mills are circular, and from ten to fifteen feet
in diameter. They can propelled by any kind of power, but
in Mexico that of mules is most generally used. The bottoms
are of porphyritic rock of the greatest solidity that can be ob
tained. Over this solid disk are suspended three long heavy
stones, also of porphyry. These are held to their places by
chainB, whichconnect them to three horizontal beams, extending
fropi the shaft pivot that rests upou the ceptre of the disk. The
stopes have their fropt edges a little elevated, so as to receive
the ore, when in motion, while the rear portion performs its
duty by grinding it to an impalpable powder.
When the ore is put into the grinder, water is from tipie to
time added to it, until, in the process of pulverizatiou, it ac
quires a thick aud paste-like appearapce apd copsistepcy,
which requires much time. The process of grinding completed,
the ore is removed to the great square of the hacienda, which
I should judge contains about two acres of land, where it is
deposited in circular beds of about ten feet in diameter, upon
the pavement of the square, in the same manner as a brick
yard. Salt, or salt earth is, in suitable quantities, sprinkled
over the pile, as also a little proportion of pulverized pine
bark, and if this cannot be secured, dried manure is used as a
substitute. The whole is then trodden by horses for some
hours, until all the parts have completely acquired an admix
ture. It is then left for three or four days, when a substance,
prepared from copper ore, called micastral, is added. The
whole mass is then sprinkled with quicksilver in considerable
quantities. It is then worked with horses for five or six hours,
after which it is left until the next day, when a little water is
added, being worked repeatedly from day to day until the
whole has effectually amalgamated. When this is consum
mated, a suitable portion is deposited in an elevated stone vat,
so that the water may escape. A large amount of water is
again added to the ore, when the whole is rapidly mixed, by
a fly wheel in the vat, propelled by mules, just like the pool of
a paper mill.
In this process the amalgam of the mineral settles to the
bottom, and when the whole mass has been thoroughly washed,
the water is discharged, and the offul escapes. The deposited
amalgam is cleansed by being filtered througli canvas, until
it assumes a plastic state, when it is made into forms of trian-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 196
gular bricks, by means of moulds. These are set up into a
circular mass, with interstices between each. A copper bell
is then placed over the whole, in the presence of all the of
ficers of the hacienda, which is then covered over with char
coal, and this is kept ignited for about twelve hours, by which
time the mercury is all sublimated. Being allowed to cool,
the silver is taken out in a pure state, ready to cast into bars.
It requires six pounds of quicksilver to obtain one mark of
silver, including the incorporation and the bath, which is the
amalgamation, and in the separation there is aloss of the same
weight of silver, as of mercury, which is a fraction, besides an
additional consumption of mercury, that has never been ac
counted for.
During the whole of the above process of extracting the
silver, that is to say, from the commencement of the washing,
until the fire is lighted around the bell containing the amalgam,
the administrador has his officers summoned to attend, to pre
vent the secreting of the metal, but after the charcoal is igni
ted all is safe, for if those left to watch the fire, should raise
the bell, the inhaling of the sublimed mercury, a certain result
of the imprudence, would destroy life. The appearance of the
amalgam, when the copper bell is lifted from it, is porous, like
a honey-comb, which is caused by the quicksilver leaving the
silver in sublimation. Thus it is perceived, that to make pure
silver is no easy task, bnt requires days of labour from man,
beast, and machinery, as well as the watchfulness necessary
to be bestowed on it.
After the silver is cast into solid lumps, about the size and
shape of pigs of lead, as seen in the United States, it is car
ried to the mint, when, agreeable to its weight, being previ
ously assayed, its value in coin is received.
From the office of the administrado, it is next carried into
the furnace room, where the pigs are melted, for the purpose
of casting them into bars, eighteen inches in length, one and
a half broad, and a quarter of a inch in thickness. They are
then weighed to discover if they correspond with the original
weight of the pigs. The bars are then put under the rolling
mill, where they are reduced to a flatness, consistent with the
dimensions of the coin to be manufactured. The thin slips of
silver are then taken to machinery, where they are cut to^ dif
ferent sizes of money, and from thence to the edging mill,
which prepares it to receive the impression of the Mexican
eagle, prickly pear, bee hive, sun, &c. From thence it had to
pass through the pickling, or washing department, where the
coin is cleansed, and receives its perfect brightness, and is ren
dered fit for use.

196 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
The silver, from the time of its being first melted into pigs,
until it is washed, never passes from the hands of one work-
nian into those of another, without the scrutiny of weight and
counting. And thus it is, the invaluable metal, when scat
tered to the world, in its fluctuating passage, ever creates the
greatest solicitudo to its possessor, until it returns to nature,
by invisible atoms.
When examining the rich mines of Mexico, the question
has often arisen in my mind, what has, and does beoome of
the vast amounts of silver and gold that the industry of man
has rescued from the depth of the earth I It did seem to me
that any one of the mines I examined, would supply the pock
ets of every living creature, continually, with small change.
The mines of Zacatecas and Frisnillo are said to be about the
oldest known in Mexico, and from their richness, and the
length of time they have been worked, have produced an
amount of bullion that would almost seem incredible. A gen
tleman, of high standing as a miner, informed me that it had
beep estimated that Zacatecas and Frisnillo had yielded two
hundred millions of the precious metals. There are two kinds
of silver mines, designated by the letters A and U, owing to
the two different ways that veins of silver make their appear-
aiice generally.
Late in the evening I took my reluctant leave of Mr. Kim
ble, who assured me that he would visit me at tho meson,
when my intended interpreter should arrive in town from the
country. Upon my leaving the mine, I discovered that my
servant had not waited for me, and that I should have to find
my way home alone to the meson in the heart of the city,
which, I had no doubt that I could easily do. I returned by
the same streets, as I imagined I came, until at length I could
not remember where I was. 1 hastened from street to street, with
the hope of coming to the well-known big door of my meson,
but none that I beheld was the one looked for. The sun was
setting, and I trembled at the thought of finding myself lost
in the town of Frisnillo at night.
Although J felt a confusion at the idea of confessing my
cpndition to any one, and had some apprehensions of conse
quences in letting my bewildered situation be known, I re
solved to speak to a Mexican who was standing in the street.
I accordingly said to him, Tray game diligencia meson ; the
man gave me a piercing look, and commenced making a long
speech in Spanish, which I silenced by repeatedly saying, No
intendi, Senor. He, with much surprise, again stared at me,
then turned uppp his, heels and walked off. I was surprised
at his behaviour, for I thought I had asked him in good

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 197
Spanish to carry me to the diligencia meson ; but what, the
more surprised me was, that I showed the rascal a rial, which
in all conscience would have paid him, well for his trouble.
I proceeded but a little way before I met two well-dressed
young men, who had the appearance of foreigners, and I de
termined to accost them in plain English, but they shook, their
heads. At length one of them replied by the interrogation,
" Parlez vous Francois 9" and with more mortification than
ever, I had to give the negative answer. I then endeavoured,
by signs, to make the gentlemen understand, and repeating
often the name of the house I wished to find, one of them took
me by the arm, and safely delivered me at the meson.
My troubles were pot at an end then ; for I was so much
distressed that I could not find my own room ; and not only
were my servants wanting, but not a living soul could I be
hold upon the premises. I had to wait at least one hour be
fore. Marcelino, my principal man, arrived. He appeared to be
as big a fool as myself, for I could pot make, him understand
that I wished to be shown to my room. At last the thought
occurred to me to say " Cartera," and with hastened delight
he left me, and in a few moments returned, bearing my out
spread cot upon his head. With much difficulty 1 turned him
about, and following him to the apartments from whence he
brought the cartera, I found my lodgings and my baggage.
Marcelino prepared me some coffee, of which, I partook
without any appetite ; but, by the time 1 had finished jt, my
friend, Mr. Kimble, and an Englishman, whose name 1 have
now forgotten, appeared, bringing with him my future inter
preter. Mr. Kimble gave me such friendly advice respecting
my journey; and, after having exhorted my new man to be
faithful and brave, he left with his companion, both taking an
affectionate farewell of me, with many hopes that I would
triumph over every difficulty, and make safe my way to my
port of destination.
My interpreter, although indifferently dressed, was a re
markably good-looking and intelligent man. One thing, how
ever, was predominant in his phisiognomy — dejectedness —
which immediately won my sympathy for him, as I presumed
that he had been oppressed by the misfortunes of the world. —
His conversation was free, though he had a slight impediment
in his speech — but he did not seem inclined to indulge in viva
city of thought, as all he said was in as solemn a manner as
preaching, and very sensible.
Early on the morning of the 5th instant, I took my depar
ture from Frisnillo. My servant, Marcellino, had mounted me
on a beautiful little mule, which he recommended as being an

198 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
uncommon easy pacer, and it came up to his description, for it
ambled along as gaily as though it did not carry a burden of
one hundred and sixty-five, or seventy pounds. My company
had a grotesque appearance. It consisted, besides myself, of
five men all well armed, and ten animals. One of the mules
carried my trunk and bedding, while another was loaded with
my kitchen, thus leaving two for a change, or to meet casual
ties. Every thing, so far as I was able to perceive, went on
smoothly. My interpreter kept close to my side, and as often
as he cast his eyes over the plain, and behind him, he would
wish himself one day's journey from Frisnillo. He related to
me the facts of an attack which a band of robbers had made,
but two nights previous, upon a hacienda campus in sight of
Frisnillo, when five of the ladrones and two of the rancheros
were killed. He said that, notwithstanding he had never at
tended the lectures in the United States, yet he was a doctor
in Mexico, and that some of the wounded in the late action
were his patients. He affirmed that he cared as little about
fighting as any other person, but that he craved a natural
death, and abominated the thought of bleaching upon the
plains. His uneasiness was considerable, and indeed had the
effect of creating additional apprehensions with myself.
My journey, for that day, was as far as Sain- Alto, a distance
of fully fifty miles from Frisnillo. We therefore had no time to
lose, but kept our animals pacing onwards as briskly as they
would go. Although the previous day's ride had somewhat
disconcerted me, the set-out of this morning was not as dis
agreeable as I imagined it would be, and I was in hopes that
I would soon become used to a Spanish saddle, and feel as
nimble as the best of them ; but, oh, Genius of Mazeppa ! I
had a different story to tell, for by the middle of the day I
could bear it no longer, and in agony and anger, I threw my
self from my easy-pacing mule, and tumbled upon the grass,
while the little animal commenced feeding around me. Out
of the stiff strong leathers of my new saddle, that held me in
a position precisely as if I was laced in a rack before a Spanish
inquisition for torture, I felt easy ; and, from that moment, I
had no doubt but that Spanish saddles, so called, were invent
ed by Philip the Second, for the iniquitous purposes of the in
quisition. I examined all the saddles of my men, and found
that that of my interpreter was the oldest, and the leathers
could in some degree be made pliable, so I proposed a swap
with him, though my own was worth twenty times as much
as his.
At two o'clock in the evening, we stopped at a house to

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 199
noon it. While reposing on a bed, I heard my interpreter say
that we were safe, whioh caused me to inquire the meaning of
his declaration. He replied that he saw hanging on the wall
of the room we were in, the Alcalde cane, pointing to it as he
spoke, and adding that he always felt safe when lodged in the
house of an Alcalde. The commission of an Alcalde is accom
panied with a cane, by order of the government, dressed off
with a bunch of silk tassels, and a silver or gold head. The
officer in authority cannot preside on any occasion without his
cane ; neither are the people bound to obey him without this
insignia of his power in his hand. He is only the magistrate
with his cane, without it he becomes the private citizen.
In Mexico oaths are seldom administered ; but, when they
are, the Alcalde crosses his fore-finger with his thumb over
the head of his cane, and swears his evidence in the name of
the commonwealth.
From the Alcalde's, where we made but a short stay, we
pursued our journey. My sufferings increased with my fatigue,
and in the evening I witnessed the going down of the sun
without having arrived at Sain-Alto. At the hour of ten
o'clock the town was gained, and I had the happiness of dis
mounting in the court of a large meson in that place.
My interpreter recommended me to eat heartily of chili, say
ing that it would strengthen and relieve me ; and, notwith
standing that I knew the remedy was a hot one, yet, in des
pair, I felt sufficiently courageous to have taken arsenic, with
the promise of restoration. My interpreter was fond of good
eating, and had ordered a plentiful supper. By way of en
couragement to me to partake of the stewed red pepper, he
swallowed about a half pint of it. Thinking that the stimu
lating stuff would oxcitome, I did not further hesitate to com
mence upon it; but my fatigue was so severe that chili was
tasteless to my palate, and I ate a hearty meal of it, which must
have had some good effect — for that night, for the first time
since my arrival in Mexico, I had a healthful glow upon the
surface. Early in the morning, I was aroused by the preparations
making by my servants for a start ; and, having taken choco
late, a woman entered to collect the bill. I observed Mar
celino at a short distance from us attentively listening and
looking on, and as soon as my interpreter informed me of the
amount I had to pay, I handed it over to her ; but my faithful
servant instantly came forward, and, with angry gestures, and
vehement articulation, commenced a quarrel with the woman
and my interpreter, which finally resulted in Marcelino hand
ing me back seventy-five cents, which I had overpaid. I felt

200 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
much pleased at what had happened, for my interpreter had
been taught a lesson that if, through design or his ignorance,
I was imposed upon, I was nevertheless not defenceless.
After we had mounted, and were leaving Sain-Alto, I per
ceived that my previous day's journey had brought me to a
warm country, for many of the houses of that place were fenced
in by the tall organo. This is a species of the prickly pear,
and is not only beautiful to look at, but a curiosity in the ve
getable kingdom. It is of a perfect deep green colour, and
rises from the ground in a solid column, of an equal size, often
reaching a height of twenty feet. It is regularly fluted from
the bottom to the top, as if done by the exactness of an artist's
line, rule, and compass.
The maquey also flourished here. It is this plant which, I
believe, is said to blossom once in an hundred years. It is
said that the colder the latitude, the later it will flower : but,
in the climate of Mexico, it generally blossoms once in seven
years. Mr. Prescott remarks of it ;
" The miracle of nature is the Mexican aloe, or maquey,
-whose clustering pyramids of flowers, towering above their
dark coronals of leaves, were seen sprinkled over many a broad
• acre of land. As we have already noticed, its blue leaves af
ford a paste from which paper was made; its juice was fer
mented into an intoxicating beverage, pulque, of which the
natives to this day are excessively fond ; they further supplied
an impenetrable thatch for the more humble dwellings ; thread
of which coarse stuffs were manufactured, and strong cords
were drawn from its twisted fibres ; pins and needles were
made of the thorns at the extremity of the leaves ; and the
root, when properly cooked, was converted into a palatable
and nutricious food.
" The maquey, in short, was meat, drink, clothing, and writ
ing material for the Azetic I Surely never did nature enclose,
in so compact a compass, so many elements of human comfort
and civilization."
The maquey is as luxuriant in its growth as that of any
other plant that I have seen, sometimes measuring ten or twelve
feet across the circumference; yet it is astonishing to behold,
that it matters not as to the soil upon which it grows, it will
present the same appearance of vigorous life. I have seen it
growing on stone walls, where not a particle of earth could be
detected by the eye, with the same admirable beauty as upon
the rich soil. How then does t:iis plant sustain itself? The
regions of the upper table lands are arid and dry ; for no mois
ture can be detected in the atmosphere, day or night, during
the dry season, apart froui the lakes apd rivers. How then

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. zfjl
does it exist? , Is it possible that, without earth, clinging to
the rocks to hoid its upright position, it must receive its nour
ishment from the gassesof the .atmosphere P Doubtless nature
in its economy designed that the periodical south-west winds
that sweep over the plains and mouptains during the dry sea-
Bon, from the Pacific, brings with it moisture frohi the ocean,
and thus supplies vegetation with hydrogen, althoii. h the hu
man eye and feeling cannot perceive it. And too, the hiaquey
excelling, if any thing, in its deep green aspect and symme
trical and heavy leaves, yields every twenty-four hours bhe
quart or more of rich fluid called pulque. In whatsoever ad
vantage this plant may be considered, I am compelled to de
cide that it is the wonder of vegetable nature.
After we had travelled about three leagues frohi Sain-Alto,
my, interpreter called my attention to three men, who had
suddenly made their appearance upon the plain, and itvyasriot
longbffore they commenced a rapid speed towards us. Marce
lino drew his sword, and fell back to my side. I jerked my
gloves from my hands, and hastily threw them away, and in
another moment we were all prepared to meet the worst. Our
assailants supposing, perhaps, that their reception might be
too warm, from the precipitous defence we were making,
changed their direction from us, and, our march being resumed,
they were soon lost to view. I informed my interpreter that
he might have my gloves, if he would dismount and pick them
up ; but he declared that, he had no intention of encumbering
his hands when his life was in flarger. The servants also all
refused te take them, and in fact gloves are not used in Mexico
when travelling, for no man can tell at what moment he may
need the best usn of his fingers. I determined also, that if
I could not wear them, they should not be in the way, when I
had a call for the bullets and cartridges from my pockets.
My journey, for that day, was over a table land, similar to
thatwhichl had, on the day previous, travelled. But towards
the close of evening, a nipple of a mountain was pointed out
to me, which had the resemblance of a Mexican hat, and was
therefore called Somhrercto. This peak overlooked a town of
the same name. By the setting of the sun we had passed a
narrow defile of the mountain, and arrived at the town of Som-
brereto, a place which had formerly been of some importance
in Mexico, from the abundance of silver thatbad been extracted
from its mines ; but they becoming unprofitable, were deserted
and the town left to decay, its inhabitants depending princi
pally upon highway robbery for support. As I entered the
town, and was passing a large building, I was hailed by »
I 5

202 TRAVELS IN MEXICO^
custom-house officer. I informed my interpreter to say to the
man, that I was an American officer, and he received in reply
that all was right ; for he was under the impression that I be
longed to the army, and without further delay we made for
the meson.
No sooner had I dismounted from my animal, than I de"
manded some water, for my mouth and throat were parched
with thirst. A woman of the meson handed me a pint glass
of the pure crystal element, and having taken it, I was hand
ing the glass back to her, with the request that it should be
filled again, when I supposed my wearied little mule, who
was standing by my side, craving water as much as myself,
knocked the tumbler out of my hand. The woman passion
ately demanded fifty cents for her satisfaction, but Marcelino
interposed and quieted the difficulty for thirty-seven and a
half. Food and sleep were my next wants, and, in their turns,
I happily devoted myself.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 203

CHAPTER XVI.

What direction I would take. Departure from Sombrereto. Un
der much excitement. Fatigue, hunger and thirBt. Hacienda
Campus de lira Muleros. Small red wolves. Sheep. Great house.
Refused admittance. Hospitality of a young Mexican. His wife
Paixham balls. Diversion. Countrymen in pursuit of a lawyer.
Understanding of right and wrong. Servants feet locked under
a mule. Many small streams. Unsatisfied thirst. Mexicans
never wash when travelling. La Ponta. Proceed to San Casan.
Arms discharged. My duty. Corpse of two men. Travel 1400
miles. River. Iron furnace. The city of Durango. De la San
ta Paula meson. Breakfast. De Cadena Casa. My walk. Two
plazas. Fire arms. The Allemade of the city of Durango. The
Convento of the patron Saint. Durango, a Bishopric. One of the
nine mints. My servant's comparisons of coins. A retired part
of the Allemade. Reflections. Vale of delusion. Civil without
religious liberty. Tom Paine. Thomas Jefferson. The groat
silence of Mexican towns. Ruin of 400 houses. Dinner. Mr.
James Moore and an Englishman. Snap of a pistol. Narrow
escape of life. Mr. German Stalknit. His mistake. Letters
of introduction. Signor Don Fernando Remizes. Hospitality.
Reflections. Dwelling of Remizes. Furniture. Libraries of
the ex- deputy. His character. Suffrages for President. Intro
duction. Liberality. History of the United States. Alicraus.
Harcourt. Courtesy of the Governor of Durango. Mr. , John
Belden. The People of Durango. Bishop of Durango. The
Bishop's character. Cotton manufacture of the Stalknits. Col
lege of Durango. Education. Change of dress. Best of arms.
To Bivouac. A tent. Letters of introduction from the Gover
nor. Remizes. Ten loads of silver.
Mv interpreter informed me, that previous to our leaving
Sombrereto, it would be prudent to deceive the people of that
town, as to what direction I would take on my departure
from it. I consented to his design of sending one of my ser
vants into the streets to answer inquiries, by saying, that bu
siness had brought me there, and that I should on the follow
ing day go back whence I came. Marcelino preferred to per
form the task, and on his return seemed to be delighted with
his success. He said that he related to the people that my
journey not only terminated at their town, but that it possibly
was my intention to open a mine there ; which information
much delighted the impoverished citizens.
On the morning of the 7th inst. I took my departure from

204 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Sombrereto. My animals were driven out of the eastern end
of the town, the same direction that I had entered it. No
sooner, however, had we become obscured by the houses,
than we turned directly to the north, and having ascended a
spur of a mountain that put us upon a plain, we hastily
continued the same course for about two leagues, when
Marcelino, who was well acquainted with the country, sud
denly tacked due west, and after travelling one league, he re
sumed his proper direction of north. During all this time my
interpreter and servants seemed to labour under much excite
ment, by continually straining their eyes to the rear, and over
the table land. Marcelino said it was true, that he had no
prbperty to lose, but that the ladrones never spared the
servants ; for they called them poor lazy devils, and flogged
them severely ; while the master would be discharged, if he
surrendered like a gentleman, with many thanks and applause
for his industry and accumulatiop of mopey and valuables.
Upbp separating with him they would advise him to have at
least as piuch for them, if they should again meet him, for if he
should not, his fate would be that of his servants, if not death.
Myjourney, on this day, was uninterrupted, saving by fa
tigue, hunger aud intolerable thirst ; for we found neither pool
nor streapiof water. The country through which we travel
led was uneven and rolling: but during the latter part of the
day the plain became a dead level, and, from first, having to
travel through the low musquito-growth, we came to a cove
of broad shady trees, small, and thinly scattered over the land,
which might be denominated a forest.
Just before the set of sun we hove in view of the castle of
the Hacienda campus de los Muleros, (a place of mules,) yet
every other kind of stock and vegetation was raised and cul
tivated there, for it was one of the finest estates that I had
ever beheld. The sight of the premises was most congenial,
for it was the first house that I had seen the whole day; al
though it was full five miles from me, it promised reposo from
my toils, at no very distant period, and I felt cheered with the
hope. Presently we came upon a gang of small red wolves,
common in Mexico, and then we approached a herd of many
thousand sheep : at length we passed the ranchos of the place
and arrived immediately in front of the great house.
One of my servants, who had been sent before me to the
castle, informed me that the administrador had said, that
there was no spare room for strangers ; for the house was
filled with com, saving one apartment for himself and wife;
and that I would have to seek lodgings in one of (ho ranchos.
The servant also stated, that there was much excitement with

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 205
the people, resulting from the fact of two murders, that had
been committed that day, Pear MuleroB; I felt perplexed and
disappointed in not being decently housed, for I had never
yet lodged in a filthy rahcho;
However, there was One other good building at the place,
from which a well-dressed young Mexican came out, and in
vited me to accept a room in his, dwelling. I thanked him
for the offer, which I accepted, Mipe host was a gSy arid
conversant gentleman, who had biit a few weeks been .Wedded
to a bouncing black-eyed Mexican girl. He informed my, in
terpreter that the proprietor of MulerOs was a very inhospita--
ble man, and that he believed that he had a part in all the
many robberies and murders which happened in that quarter.
As for myself, the Scape-gallows look of the man was conclu
sive evidence of the truth of this assertion.
In the morning we resumed our journey in good spirits.
My interpreter appeared not to be satisfied with the arms
with which I had furnished him, and had secured some large
round stones, Which he called his Paixham balls, which he
threatened to burst against the administrador, after his shots
were expended, if he should attack us. There was a small
and rapid stream, that flowed through the dominions of
Muleros, and for several miles from its banks' were cotton-
wood trees of handsome growth, pleasing to the sight of the
traveller in this hot, barren ahd thirsty country.
During that day several things occurred of a diverting na
ture. First, in passing by an extensive corn-field, I perceived
up a distant tree, in the midst of the corn, a nest, and,- as I
rbally imagined, a bird in it, and observed to my interpreter
that there was the largest sopilote that I ever beheld. He
laughed heartily, ahd informed me that it Was nothing more
not less than a Mexican wrapped in his serapi, guarding his
crop. Crops in Mexico are watched both day and night, to
prevent the stock, and two-legged thieves, from molesting it.
Again, We had not proceeded much farther, before a man
came galloping up to us, and comnlehced addressing. himself
to me. Upon inquiring of nly interpreter what this individual
wanted, he informed me that the countryman had supposed
me to be a lawyer, and that he wanted my advice against his
partner in a crop of corn, in a suit for damages. I directed
him to sky to the man, that he had mistaken my calling, but
that Marcelino had been, OP some occasions, my advocate,
and he might do well, perhaps, to consult with him. The
man thanked me for the intelligence, and instantly spurred to
the Side of my servant, and, for several leagues, the client and
counsellor discussed the merits of the cause, while my inter-

206 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
prefer rapidly translated the conversation for me, much to my
entertainment. The suit of the complainant, and the decision of the case by
Marcelino, was only but one other evidence, to me, of the
eptire wapt of a proper upderstapdipg of right apd wropg
amopg the Mexicans. Fraud and dishonesty in transactions
are so prevalent amopgst them, that they have no proper con
ception of how to discriminate justice from injury : and in
their honest convictions of judgments, as well as the case in
regard to Marcelino, the impossibility of separating low cun-
pipg and chicanery from equity is a task too severe, resulting
from their practices and habits of thinking — just in the same
manner, as it is said, of a lawyer, who has long appeared for
the commonwealth of any country, that his judgment is so
biased against the commission of crime that he cannot be con
vinced that any are innocent, or that there are any palliating
circumstances in their favour attending the acts they are
charged with. Hence it is that mankind has to mourn under
a heavy weight of civil and piouBly bigoted oppression, per
verting to its peculiar uses the statutes of God, the broad basis
of which are the only fundamental principles of reason and
law. I am aware that travellers often see things, which, to those
who have pever beep abroad, are, as St. Paul says, " hard to
believe," aud hepce I have let ipcidepts escape me that might
have informed and entertained the minds of many.
To those who have seen the large spurs of the Mexicans, what
I am going to relate will seepi not incredible. The couotrymap,
havipg finished his discourse, put off in full speed to find, per
haps, other advisers. But one of my servants, being wickedly
disposed, started after him, to bring him back for future sport.
It was not long however, before he came back, calling lustily
for help. My first thoughts were, that some banditti had
made their appearance, but, as the poor man rode up to us, I
soon perceived the amount of his distress. His heels were
confined under his mule by his spurs being locked together ;
the long rowl of the right one having hooked itself to the
chain of the left, that hangs under the foot. The man was
as closely united to his animal as if he had been secured by
lock and key; and the little machacho was not altogether out
of distress, for the long prongs of the spur were continually
jading him, and it could not be told when the tortured creature
would take fright, and perhaps kill its rider. Amid the shouts
and bursts of laughter of his compeers his shackles were un
loosed, much to his relief. Such occurrences, my interpreter
informed me, were not before unknown, for he had freed

TRAVELS IN MEXICO^ 207
others, whom he had overtaken on the road, who had suffered
in this way for hours.
My journey, for the most of this day, was close to, and
parallel with a mountain, from whence flowed many small
streams. The sight of the mountain-brooks had an inconceiv
ably delightful aspect, recalling to my mind the cooling foun
tains of the the Alleghames, where my thirst had been so often
satisfied by pure water, — the first, the second, and the third
of these streams were, in their turns, stopped at, but with no
satisfaction, for they were all strongly tinctured with copperas,
deep green deposites of which enveloped the rocks, and covered
the beds of the streams. As I could not relieve my dried and
parched lips with the water, I resolved at least to wash my
hands and face in it, but the Mexicans making so many objec
tions to this, I desisted for their satisfaction.
The Mexicans never wash when travelling, believing it to
be injurious to their health, and, indeed, they object to the
constant use of water, being of the opinion that the dirt on
their faces is less pernicious than the diseases engendered by
the use of this liquid to remove it ; this being a temperance
carried beyond the principles of the societies of the United
States ; and thus I had to perish in the midst of plenty.
It was my intention to travel that day as far as La Ponta,
but from the fatigue, which is better understood by those
whe have had to endure it, than the idea can be conveyed by
description, I was advised by my interpreter to proceed no
farther than San Causin, which place was then discernible,
from our elevated position, some three leagues from us. With
our quarters in view our pace was quickened, for there all
our wants were to be supplied. We were thus progressing,
when, suddenly, we discovered six men advancing in front of
us. Overpowered with the toils of the day, I thought not,
and cared as little, of danger that might be brooding, and,
until it had been accomplished, did I perceive that my servants
had driven my animals to one side, and my interpreter had
also left the straight-forward road, apprehending some evil,
as the advancing party were better mounted and equipped
than any others we had met.
Not having acted in concert with the movement of my men,
timorously resolving not to yield a foot, I passed them, brushing
the very points of some of their spears, at the same time
holding my finger on the trigger of my double-barreled gun,
as it lay on my lap, which was pointed directly at them. My
servants all stopped to witness the rencontre, but it all passed
away by hard looks. When I rejoined my party, my inter
preter declared that he had never witnessed so fearless an

L'-i. "'- ' •-  - 
208 TRAVELS IN MEXICO,
...I.'-:, C. ... I : .. . ... , , . , ,  , -..,-.
experiment, for he copfidently believed that I would be killed.
I told him that I was, conscious of having cpmmitted no act
of, rashness, and thai, in all probability, the incident had
saved lis from a battle,, as the, party we met were no travellers,
for they were withopt animals, or baggage of any kind.
,ltis the rule ip Mexico, for the weaker party always to
give the way. Our compaoies were equal; but, as I had
extra animals, 1 certainly was entitled to the road. And, if
armed men, who are not travellers, do not give thp road, if is
copclusive evidence, as I had been advised, of their hostile
iptept. We arrived in safety at San Cuusin, a hacienda
campus. The water was good ; the tortillas, the frijoles, the
chili apd the stewed mutton, were all, to a hungiy man, de
lightful ; and sleep, on that night, was pe\cr more refreshing.
On the following morping, all of my men being in readiness
to.recommeu.ee the journey, which was that day to put me in
the city of Durango, I gave orders that all of our guns and
pistols should be discharged and reloaded, which had not been
done since we left Zacatecas, as I felt desirous of witnessing
the performances of our weapons. The volley we fired was
equal to a commapdant's salute, as we numbered about forty
rounds, eight of which were from my own person and saddle.
At every place we stopped, accounts of murders and rob
beries were detailed. The ladrones of Mexico are like the
musquitoes on the Mississippi, the people saying always that,
with them, there are few if any, but Ihat a little way beyond
they become very plentiful. I felt it my duty to be prepared,
at whatsoever place it Plight befall me to meet-with them,
and wp prosecuted our journey. We had not travelled more
than five leagues before we came upon the corpses of two
men, who had been murdered the day previous; one of them
appeared to have come to his end by a bullet — the ojher had
several shocking sabre wounds.
On this day I hiid to cross the same river twice. The last
time I was ferried over iu a dug-out, which cost me one
dollar and a half, though my animals had to swim across with
the Mexican who drove them. 1 had then travelled about
fourteen hundred miles iu Mexico, and of the few rivers that
I had seen, none of them was above a moderate stone's throw
across. The country over which I had passed was thinly covered
with musquito growth, and some cotton wood ; but, upon
being landed over, the ferry, I was upon the plain of Durango,
a beautiful level country. Although the tableland was totally
divested of timber, yet the mountains of Durango towered
with tho pine, the cypress, ahd other species of trees ; and,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 209
near to the city, Mr. Lakeman, ap AmeriCap, is the proprietor
of an iron furnace. ,
On the 9th instant, at pine o'clock at night, I entered the
city of Durango, and put up at the De la Santa Paula meson.
The following morning, being Sunday, I determined that I
would rest, being much fatigued after the last five days' travel.
I did not take my breakfast until ten o'clock, which being
over, I felt desirous of recreation by walking ; and, having
invited my interpreter to accompany me, I entered the streets,
for a promenade in the Alemade, if I could fihd it. The me
son joined a large religious edifice, in which the inquisition
was formerly located. It is called De Cadena Casa, the
chain-house. From that building, for some few days in the
year, a chain was extended across the street, during which
time, if any individual committed any offence or crime against
the law, and he could lay hands upon that chain, before
arrested by the legal authorities, he escaped all further molest
ation or prosecution. Thus crime was encouraged through
the instrumentality of religion. This custom had its origin
from the heathenish sanctuary institutions, but it has been
abandoned by the Christian church, in both Europe and
America. My walk extended round the principal plaza, upon the
eastern side of which the government house is situated, where
all the public business is transacted. It is also used as a gar
rison for the army. On the western side is the government
palace, the residence of the governor and general of Durango.
My way was then directed through the de Commercio plaza,
the commercial plaza, where all kinds of fruits, provisions and
merchandise were offered for sale — promiscuously spread
upon the pavement; and in such places my interpreter in
formed me the ladrone vended such earnings as he desired to
part with.
My interpreter took a fancy to a handsome gun, in the pos
session of a poor Mexican ; and he said that he would prove
to me that the man stole it, by his taking one-third of its value
for it. The gun I supposed to be worth twenty dollars, but
the man, after some jewing, agreed to take ten.
The Alemade of the city of Durango was as lovely and
delightful a retreat as I had ever in my life enjoyed. A grove
of trees shaded its clean walks and seats, whilst a foun
tain of water refreshed and cooled the atmosphere. It is
located between the Plaza de los Torros and the town, and
commanded a view of the plain, the city, &nd the extended
mountains around, and a more picturesque scene I never be
held. The Convento of the patron saint of the town was

210 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
situated upon a romantic mound of earth and stone. The
view from this edifice excels the imagination of poet and
artist, and exceeds any other scene of the kind ever before ex
hibited to my view. The city of Durango appeared to cover
about the same amount of space as the city of Mexico. The
buildings are not so. high, but are, otherwise, not less in
dimensions. Durango is a Bishopric, and the two high steeples of the
cathedral towered far above those of the many other churches
and convents of the place.
At Durango has long been established one of the nine mints
belonging to the government. It was not a little amusing to
see my Zacatecas servaots comparipg the coips of their own
city with those of Durapgo ; while ooe of them said, satiri
cally, that the bird on the Durango coin looked more like a
sopilote (buzzard) than the Mexican eagle. Auother res-
popded that he would be rejoiced if either of the fowls would
build a pest ip his pocket, apd hatch youpg ones there. The
inhabitapts of Durango were fewer than I had supposed,
judging from the extent of the city. I was informed that the
population did not exceed thirty thousand.
While seated under a shade, in a retired part of the Ale
made, my thoughts were interrupted by the natives actually
stopping to gaze at me — and casting my eyes upward to the
pure, bright, serene expanse of heaven — for scarcely in nine
months does a spot of cloud as big as a man's hand appear
in the skies of Mexico — then beheld the mountains sublimely
reaching as it were to the regions of upper air — the massive
compactness of a large city, in the midst of a plain beneath — .
the solemnity of the Mexican countenance, and lhe profound
stillness of the whole scene ; for from that vast multitude no
sounds were sent up to break the sadness of nature, and the
gloom of a dense town, my mind was filled with a pleasing
melancholy, and from my heart I hoped that the time might
come when the Mexicans , would bo happy, when tho veil of
delusion that hangs between them and that independence
which the plastic hand of their Creator baa endowed them
with, would be split in twain ; when their judgment would be
untrammelled, and their conscience no longer made a com
merce of! then, and not till then, could I imagine Mexico to
be free, and enjoy the transcendent beauties and bounties of
nature with which she has been blessed. For I am persuaded
that there cannot be civil, without religious liberty ; apart,
they are a mutual aid to each other ; united, they both de
generate and sink to a wedded corruption, too impure for the
respect of man, and too vile to be acceptable to God I If

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 211
good ever came out of evil, it was by Tom Paiue's works,
during the American revolution ; and if glory ever covered a
benelactor of the human family, it was when Thomas Jeffer-
sop first set the example of dissolving the union of church
and state, and penned, for the constitution of Virginia, the
declaration of independence and the liberty of conscience.
The great silence that, prevails in Mexican towns is re
markable, when the church bells are pot ringing, and from the
garrison the clang of the trumpet-horn is no longer blown.
From twelve to three o'clock in the afternoop all is still, and
from a distance no sound is heard ; and, in fact, in the hot
valleys, and the inhabitants so wrapped in sleep that a tra
veller might pass through the streets of a town without see
ing a humon being.
The city of Durango had, in the month previous to my ar
rival, suffered a heavy calamity, which resulted in the serious
damage, more or less, and the ruin of four hundred houses.
. The cause of this destruction of property had its origin from
the heavy rains that had fallen, which had so saturated the
sun-brunt bricks, that the crumbling walls were not able to
support the roofs, and of course they tumbled in. It was not
in the knowledge of any one that, in the month of January, it
should rain, and none of the inhabitants had ever experienced
in the wet season so great and continued a fall of water as
came so unexpectedly upon them. The sudden rise of the
streams and small rivers was so rapid as to do much damage
to the haciendas, also to drown stock, and wash down houses.
On my return to the meson, my servant brought me my
dinner, and while myself and interpreter were eating, two
gentlemen entered the room, one of whom introduced himself
to me as Mr. James Moore, an American, from the State of
Tennessee ; the other was an Englishman, whose name I have
lost. The latter individual appeared to have been indulging
too freely that day, and as we were all seated, and I was
finishing my dinner, I happened to look towards the English
man, who I perceived had my large rifle pistol in his hands,
with the muzzle pointed immediately at my head, for I could
see down into the barrel, while his finger was pulling at the
hammer. I politely informed him what he was doing, and re
quested that he would turn the weapon in another direction;
or else lay it down ; he replied that he had never killed ony
one, and well understood the use of arms. Thinking that the
man would have some regard for what I said, I continued my
repast of lettuce and stew ; but no sooner had 1 taken my
eyes from him than I heard the snap of the pistol, and with
out thought I sprang from my seat, while the first self-con-

212 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
pciousnegs I posssessed was, that I had wrested the heavy
weapon from his hand, and had it nplifted ip the air above his
head. So pePding was the fatal blow, that my poised arm
seemed to tremble over him, op the verge of tho almost im
possible checkipg of the deadly fall. The terrified pian sat
motionless and speechless for a time, and then, to my satisfac
tion, left the room ; for in turns each of us had been on the
brink of eternity, I never knew that pistol, before or sipce,
fail td, explode a cap, apd would ppt for the world that the
same experimept should happep. After some hours the Epg-
lishmap returued, apd, ip his apologies for what had taken
place, thanked me for his life, and the lesson I had taught him.
Op Monday piornipg, the 11th instant, feeling sufficiently
refreshed for business, I looked over my letters, and found that
all were in my possession but one, addressed to Mr. Germain
Stalknit, a German by birth, and a gentleman who had been
highly recommended to me as a high-minded and honourable
man, Such was the character of Mr. S., that notwithstand
ing I . had mislaid or lost his letter, I determined to make him
a visit, and introduce myself to him, and for this purpose I
procured a guide to couduct pie to his house.
Op eptering the great door of Ms palace, for palace indeed
it was, if splendour and large dimensions can constitute such
a thing, I was Bhown a door to the right hand, and upop go
ing to it, I perceived two gentlemen in the endless employ
ment (in Mexico) of counting dollars and weighing gold.
One of them, who proved to be the gentleman that I was de
sirous of seeing, without my having first spoken, said, " Doc
tor Gilliam, I am glad to see you, be seated, and v\ hen my
brother and seif have fipished our present engagement, I shall
be happy to converse with you."
It was not long before the accomplished geptlemap again
turned to me, and I in my turu addressed hipi, by sayipg, that
it was true he had giyen uie my right appellation, but that I
was apersop whom he had never seen : to which he replied, "Are
you not Doctor Gilliam, United States Consul to Monterey?"
To his surprise, I informed him that I was the brother of the
individual he had mistaken me for. It was all the same with
tho two German gentlemen, for they seemed to be as cordial
and familiar with me, as if we had been intimate all our lives.
I acquainted Mr. Stalknit of my having onpe been in pos
session of a letter addressed to him from Zacatecas j but that
on that morping I was unable to lay my hand upon it. I then
presented him tho letters I have before mentioned, and his po
liteness induced hup tp proffer his services in handing theip to
the individals to whom they were directed. It proved that

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 213
Senor Don Fernando Ramires was the brother-in-law of Mr.
Germain Stalknit. He insisted that I should dine' with him
that day, and said he would accompany me in the evening to
Don Fernando's, and thence to the Government palace.
Such hospitality to a stranger, old Virginia like, can but be
gratefully felt. I have heard the selfish object to extending
kindness to the unknown, whom chapce or business may have
thrown in their towns or country, as if the world was niade
alone for them. By a liberal state of society, the stranger re
ceives a benefit, while those, who in duty bestow it, are done
no injury ; and if time should prove that he was unworthy of
attention, there is yet a pleasing reflection, that the subject
has received a lesson in politeness, and perhaps is thereby in
stigated to refrain from evil company and bad deeds, and re
form his manners. No well-bred community will slight, or
indifferently treat an apparent gentleman, who in reality is as
good as themselves. However, high life below stairs some
times exposes itself, and is subjected to reproach, whep other
wise it might have dope honour to itself, at least have Pothipg
lost. Dinner being over, Mr. Stalknit conducted to the dwelling
of Senor Don Fernando Ramiresj My friendj without cere
mony, entered the house, and I at once perceived that the
large and elegant establishment Was well furnished,' being
much in the style of the houses in the United States, the
chairs and sofas perhaps having been imported thence by the
way of Mazetlan. It happened that the proprietor Was not
in, and Mr. .Stalknit said that he would take the liberty of
showing me the library of the ex-Deputy.
I accepted the invitation, and was conducted to a large
room, not under thirty feet long, by twenty broad and in
height. It was filled all around, from floor to ceiling, as niy
friend informed pie, with Spanish law books.
" Op a large table in tho centre of the room, lay piles of do
cuments, besido the open authors of his recent consultation.
Having looked in the face of many of the old volumes which
I could not understand, I was invited into an adjoining apart;
ment, much larger, containing a greater number of folioW.
Mr. Stalknit related, that that was his general' library, and
contained works upon every branch of learning, and Of several
languages. Fernando Ramires was certainly a great man, and a patriot,
and as an evidence of his purity and good sense, he had that
year resigned his scat in the HoUse of Deputies, to which he
had been elected for many years, publicly assigning as his rea
son, which was much for any man to do, at that time,' in

2l4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Mexico, that he could no longer consent to serve under a
usurping Dictator, who had trampled the constitution under
his feet, and, by force of arms, driven the deputies from their
seats. If the people of Mexico, knew how to enjoy and maintain
their liberties, such a civilian as Ramires would receive their
suffrages as Presideut, ipstead of their supportiug, by their
bayooets, a throne for ambitious military chieftains. But the
libraries and wealth of this good man were not the most va
luable of his possessiops, for he was the father of a lovely apd
accomplished dapghter, who could fiueptly copverse in French
and English as well as in Spanish. Her education and refipe-
ment, obtaioed by dint of application, were of the first order,
and would have made her pre-eminently attractive in any
country. Our conversation and examination of books delayed us until
the honourable lawyer entered his study. Upon being intro
duced to him, his manly and digpified bearing came up to
every thing I had imagined of a man of his character. He had
a round full bust, full face, eyes that sparkled with genius,
high forehead, a little bald; his stature was about the common
height. I conversed with him on the subject of legal business,
for which he positively refused any remuneration. He gave
me writtep instructions how to proceed, and requested that
I should let him immediately know, if I required future aid.
He informed me, through Mr. S., who acted as our mutual
interpreter, that he was studying the English language, and
showed me a copy of Marshall's Life of Washington, and the
Federalist, in English. He said he was desirous of knowing
what was the best history of the United States, and I had the
mortification of replying that there were none of the many
histories of the country considered the best, and that its his
tory was yet imbedded in the archieves of the United States
papers, as well as the lives of the prominent men. I told him,
that so far as I was informed, the future historian had to bear
off the palm of having written the best history of the Union.
He seemed very desirous of obtaining information of my coun
try, and asked me many questions appertaining to it. The
evening having been consumed at Sen. Don Fernando's, my
visit to the Governor was deferred until the next morning.
That night, after my return to my qjurters, the keeper of
the meson gave me warning of the Alicrans, a species of
scorpion, and how to elude their sting. The lodgermust, pre
vious to his reposing, tuck all the bed clothing under the
mattress of his cartera, so that none of them may touch the
floor for the vepopious reptile to crawl upop. No portiop of

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 2l5
the bed must touch the walls of the room, and the ipdividual
must sleep with his entire head and body covered, to prevent
the fall of the insect from the ceiling.
The alicran is of a reddish complexion, and about the size
and shape of a small lizard. Its legs are like those of a spider,
and at the point of its tail is a short curved sting, no longer
than that of a bee. No sooner does he touch a human being,
than he hooks him with his poisonous weapon, always fatal,
at Durango, to children, and most painfully distressing to
grown persons ; producing a delirium, and violent spasmodic
affections, with frothing at the mouth. The alicran is more
poisonous at Durango than in any other portion of Mexico.
This fact cannot be attributed to any known cause, unless it -
should be from the mineral of the earth it lives in.
I was informed that there are families in Durango, who
make their subsistence by catching these insects, the govern
ment paying them a premium for each one destroyed. After
night the alicran catcher passes along the street with a torch
in his hand, and the little reptile runs out of his crevice,
attracted by the light ; but ho no sooner appears, than he is
struck from the wall by a brush, and as soon as he touches
the pavement, a handful of Band is thrown upon him, when
the expert catcher dexterously picks him up and extracts his
sting ; after which he deposits him in a bottle alive, and re
ceives his reward from the proper authority. Citizens, who
•wish it, have to pay extra for the search of their rooms.
On the 12th instant, I had the honour of being presented to
Cesmo Sir Gobernador y Commandant General D Jose Anto
nio Heridia. The governor was a fine looking, intelligent
gentleman, and received me with much courtesy. I did my
self, on this occasion, the distinction of showing the general
an American uniform. After some conversation, I retired,
leaving him uninterrupted in his multifarous public duties.
From the government house I went to that of Mr. John Bel-
den, an American, of the city of New York, who had invited
me to dine with him that day. Mr. B. had been successful in
business, and had accumulated a large fortune; and whether
or not to please himself or the Mexicans, I cannot say, he
often wore costly diamond jewels, and hence he was called
the Prince of Diamonds.
The people of the city of Durango, both foreign and native,
seemed to be of a better order than any others I had seen in
all Mexico. This, possibly might result from the circumstance
of having such men as Ramires residing amongst them. The
Bishop of Durango, also, was the only pious map that I heard

216 TRAVELS IN MEXICP.
of duriog all my travels ip that conutry. His name, I regret
to say, has been lost with others from among my papers.
This celebrated and beloved Bishop is said to be truly reli
gious. I was informed by a distinguished citizen that, sacred
to his vow, he never had a female to enter his house, and that
all of his servants were men ; a fact unknown in relation to
apy other clergyman ip the country. His father confessor
accompanied him on every occasion, and regularly, three times
a day, he made confession.
The Bishop was a man of deep sympathies and sensibilities,
which was evinced by his grief at the death of an American,
J. V. Crannell, M. D., for whom he had a high regard. It is
said that the good man sat daily by the bedside of the doctor,
and, upon his decease, gave special directions for his funeral
ceremonies. I was informed they were very splendid, and it
required two days to do the honours for the dead. The wor
thy Bishop did not himself, however, partake of this ostentar
tion ; but, with great distress, for thirty days confined himself
to his room, suffering no one but his confessor to come into
his presence. The priests, on the other hapd, take good care
to buy indulgences to live with their uppiarried wives. It
should not be astonishing that, with such highly honourable
men as Ramires, and the Christian Bishop, the morals and
manners of a community should be improved.
At Durango there is one college, having foreign and native
professors. The public school system, as regulated by law in
the departmept, I very piuch admired, as being the only one
perhaps by which to compel education upop the people. They
are taxed for the support of the schools, upon the more perfect
plan of the Prussian district system, and it is piade the impe
rative duty of every teacher to report to the Alcalde each
pareut or guardian, who has children of six years of age
and upwards, who neglects to send them to school.
The parent or guardian, as the case may be, is then sum
moned to appear before the court, to show good cause why he
does not send his children to school ; and, failing to do so, is
fined, or punished by imprisonment, until his child is per
mitted to enjoy its privilege and natural right. Would that
the law of some of the States of the Union would thus compel
unkind parents to educate their offspring, who are provided
for by the law of the land, but are refused the boon by hard
hearted and unnatural parents.
My stay in the city of Durango was but four days, when
much to piy regret, I had to exchange my American dress for
the Mexican jaeeti, around about jacket. Long-tailed or frock

TRAVELS iN MEXICO. Wt,
coats are never worn, excepting at the capital, Or by foreigtt-
ers ; and, as a gentleman informed hie, if a mail should be
seen riding in any other apparel than that of a jaceti ahd
leather pants, he would be looked upon as a monster, and ac
cordingly almost stoned to death. It is Very important to
conform to Mexican costume, both to gratify Mexican vanity,
as also to disguise yourself as a native, for the traveller can
not know when he may hear the exclamation, " Death to all
foreigners!'' The handy and comfortable little 'jacket I did
not at all regard, but it was the Weight of iron and steel With
which I was Obliged to encumber myself and saddle ; for to
my belt was a powder-flask, a bag of bullets, two Bix and
one single barrel pistols, a bowie-knife and a sword ; while
looped to the horn of my saddle was a double-barrel gun,
holsters with two pistols, and my nine-ipch barrel rifle pistol,
hanging to piy right, op the skirt of piy saddle.
Such a formidable display of weapons might appear savage
and intently bad in any other country, but such are the cus
toms of Mexico ; and notwithstanding I fell short of the full
complement of twenty-six rounds ; yet, as it was iny intention
never to surrender " like a gentleman," as the ladrones have
it, I felt desirous to be as well prepared for battle as the best
of them ; or, as my interpreter often expressed himself, " it
looked so respectable, for a Mexican would never deign to
take his hat off to a traveller unarpied."
As in the journey before me I should be often obliged to
bivouac in the open air, I had provided myself with 'a tent, as
also an additional supply of London pickled salmon, and hani,
crackers and jerked beef. At Durango I Was advised to em
ploy a guide, as no one cpuld find the way to Canales, except
ing those who had travelled the mountains. I did not dis
charge my interpreter here, for the reason that I found ho
serious complaint to lodge against him, and for fear that in
an exchange I might not obtain a better one.
The governor of Durango having furnished me with letters
to the Alcalde of Canales, and the prefect of Tamazula, re
commending them to forward me in all my designs, and all
other necessary preparations having been made, I gave the
order bamanos, (let us go,) a word always used for the sig
nal of a departure, and took up my line of march to Caca-
rio. My friend, Mr. Stalknit, had at that time despatched ten
loads of silver for Mazatlan, and I was recommended to join
company with the conductor of it, which I did ; and although
his men were all armed well, with the exception of a boy,
who carried a gun without a lock, yet I cannot say that I
K

213 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
considered it altogether prudent; for, while I might be of
assistance to him, the money he had in charge was a superin-
ducemeut for the attack of maraudiug parties.
While at Durango, the two brothers, Stalknits, ipvited me
to a ride of two miles in the conntry, to visit their cotton fac
tory. The buildings of their establishment were as commo
dious as any others I had seen of the kind in the Union,
working twepty thousand spindles, and their complement of
looms. The yarns of the factory were all wove into fabrics,
with the exception of thread for sewing purposes. The con
ductors of the manufacturing department were all New En-
glanders. A young lady who had been engaged at that factory for the
last six years was desirous of returning home, and requested
that if I should again take Durango in my way to the
United States, that I should be her protector ! My gallantry
would not permit me to refuse, and I assured her that it
would be a pleasure to me to play the part of knight-errant
on her dangerous voyage home.
The wife of the principal superintendent, a lady of much in
telligence, seemed to be very desirous of visiting her native
country. She was a woman who had seen trouble, for she in
formed me that the only infant of her bosom, of two years of
age, upon having departed this life, was refused the rites of
burial, for the reason of its not having received Catholic bap
tism ; which fact I do not consider egregious, as the creeds of
some of the Protestant denominations deny to children admit
tance into heaven under any circumstances ; when Christ him
self said, "Suffer little children to come unto me, for of such
is the kingdom of heaven." But I will not dispute with priests.
I will rather take the word of God, for I believe ip the doc
trine, " Let every man be a liar, so God be true."
The infant was preserved in a lead coffin, and deposited
under her bed, until the period should arrive when she should
lay it by the side of her kindred.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 219

CHAPTER XVII.

Journey commenced. Camino Real. Cacario. Dining and sleep
ing. Separation from the conductor. Splendid view of the val
ley Guatemepe. Animals feeding on the plain. Distance on the
tableland deceiving. Despatched my guide to secure lodgings.
Countess of Guatemepe. Her hospitality. Prayers and a dance.
Departure for Chinacates. Indian news. Dissatisfaction with
my interpreter. My guide's rebellion. Disagreeable journey.
Arrival at Chinacates. Six-barrel pistols. Ridge of the moun
tain. Conversed with an Englishman. Mexican artizans. A
New Englander. Disgraceful transaction. Santa Argo. Indians
committing depredations. Reflections. Solicitude for my men.
Conversation with my interpreter. San Dilla. An old Mexican
account of the Indians. Excitement in the village. My servant
Marcelino. Advice of friends. My own deportment. Several
Bmall villages. Two mountains. Want of men at Catarine.
Indians who had killed many travellers. Six mules loaded with
dead men. Boca the mouth. Notice not to proceed farther.
Some days delay at the Boca. Madre Montes. Separation from
company. Bivouac. Battle at night. March for Canales. Re
covered from injuries. Battle in the day. Death of an Indian.
None of my men killed. Pursued my journey. Mountain scenery
and travelling. Early history of the country. Frost. Reach
Canales. Curiosities and freaks of nature. The Madre Montes.
Despatched my guide to engage lodgings. Disappointment.
Stake my tent. My interpreter complains. His suspicions. Pro
position to me. My refusal. Buckled on my belt. Fell asleep.
Marcelino. The ascent of the next mountain. Dreadful sus
picion of my interpreter. Stupendous scenes of nature. White
bear. A mountain that overlooked the others. Like Balboa be
held the Pacific. Extensive sublimity. Distant view of Canales.
Two little boys. Departed brother.
Mv journey, or trouble, I would rather say, was commepced
on the 15th instant, by crossing first a low rocky mountain,
and then another of no better travelling condition, which con
sumed one half of the day. When we landed upon the plain
of Cacario, I found it to be so perfectly level, that the camino
real, (the principal road,) was often, for a mile at a time, full
of water ; while the land generally was boggy. At one o'clock,
under a large cotton-wood tree, that stood in the midst of the
plain, I stopped to "noon it."
While partaking of some refreshments I despatched Mar
celino to a rancho close by for water, but on the way his

220 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
animal was bogged, and it was with difficulty extricated. But
what was of more serious distress to me was, that ip the
catastrophe piy servapt broke ope of two bottles of brapdy I
had purchased at Durapgo, at the dear rate of two dollars
each. The brapdy I expected to have foupd a restorative in
piy moments of excessive thirst and fatigue, as also a pleasant
medicine in tiuies of indisposition — bnt as the old adage has
it — " there is piapy a slip betweep the cup and the lip." It
was not until after spp-down that I arrived at the mesop of
the Haciepda campus Cacario. The conductor reached our
quarters first, and upon my dismounting, I was glad to gee
that diuper was ip preparation. After we had satisfied our
hunger we commenced preparing for sleep. As there were no
seats in our room, bags of money supplied their places, but my
cartera being made up, I soon stretched myself upon it, whilst
the old conductor extended himself across the only door in the
room. The following morning we made an early start, and about
mid-day, having arrived at a high rolling country, the con
ductor and myself parted , my havipg to take toe right-hapd,
for Guatemepe, while he turned to the left. After travelhng
uptil about three o'clock, over a low mouutaipous regioo, we
hove io view of a level coontry, which, for the extent of land
scape, and lake-scenery, was as sublime in appearance as the
valley of Mexico.
To our right, a lake for many miles skirted the mountain,
having arms of water jutting from the main surface, like bays
from a miniature sea ; while far in the plain, at some ten or
twelve miles in distance, sat the casa grande, and the ranchos
of the hacienda campus of Guatemepe.
For a season I enjoyed the prospect of hundreds of animals
feeding upon the plain, and drinking the water of the lake :
but the desire of resting from the toils of the day urged me
forward to reach the great house, where I might indulge in
sweet repose. And so anxious did I become, with my quar
ters in sight, that it did seem that the more I travelled the
less I approached the object of my mark, as if deluded by en
chantment. Distance, upon the table-lands of Mexico, is as
deceiving, if not more' so, as upon water. The highly rarified
state of the atmosphere, in the elevated regions of the country
enables the beholder to see with a distinctness objects that are
far remote, in a manner upkpown in the latitudes of the United
States. Travellers, who are careful of their eyes, upon the
plains wear goggles, to prevent the coptinued strain of look
ing throngh the vast space, as well as to break the force of the

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 221
periodical south-west winds, as also the rays and reflection of
the sun.  ':.
At a proper period, I despatched my guide to secure me
lodgings, to the Conde of Guatemepe; for I had no idea of top
ping at the ranchos if I could help myself to better accommo
dations. As I approached the house, my servant returned and
informed me that the countess had refused to receive me,
owing to her lbrd being from home, and could not entertain
company: however, in another moment, I received a mes-
sepger who said that his mistress had copsented, as an es
pecial favour, that I should put up at her casa grapde. I have
before used the titles of nobility common in Mexico, aud here
I will remark, opce for all, that they are now only applied as
a courteous compliment, and not as a matter of right.
Wealth, in Mexico, is sufficiently respectable and powerful,
without the dignity of Pames, bestowed on her former nobles.
The couutess was a lovely apd hospitable woman, of between
twenty and thirty years of age. She furnished me with a
handsome apartment, where I feasted upon the good things' of
my own store and her supplies. There was other company at
the castle besides myself, and, at the tolling of the same ora
tion, by the bell of the church, which was a part of the same
building, prayers were said, and then the guitar and a dance
were introduced, which lasted until eleven o'clock, when all
retired to rest.
From Guatemepe I resumed my journey on the following
morning for Chinacates, distant about forty miles. My direc4
tion, the most of the day, was over a continued range of low
mountains, leaving the great and extensive valley of Gua
temepe to the right. For several minor reasons, I had from the
time of my departure from Durango, been dissatisfied with my
interpreter ; but I said nothing to him until I had some strong
suspicions of the unfriendly intentions of the man. I had been
informed that, at a distance of two or three days' ride from
Guatemepe, a hard battle had been fought between a party of
five hundred Camanche Indians and a thousand Mexicans, the
latter being defeated. This intelligence, I was of the opinion,
my interpreter was turning to an account injurious to the ad
vance of my journey ; for he had imparted it to my servants,
and would himself, every cross we came to by the sides of the
road, — which, the reader must recollect, were erected over
murdered persons, — shout aloud, Los Indios ! — (The Indians !)
Discovering that his exclamations had an undesirable effect
upon my men, I remarked to him, that I was sensible that I
was surrounded with danger, but if he persisted in alarming
my servants, which might result in their desertion, he might

222 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
return to Durango, or take any other direction he chose, for I
believed his course of conduct to be prejudicial to me. He in
sisted that he was entirely innocent of an intention of harm,
and implored that I would forgive the indiscretion, and think
no more of it. He knew as well as I did that, if I discharged
him, I could not employ another interpreter, for my last chance
had escaped me, and that I must need one in future more than
ever. I expressed myself satisfied, but took care to watch
and divine, if I could, his every action.
My guide became rebellious, and would stop and have long
conversations with every one whom he met. This conduct I
had been advised by all of my friends to prohibit, but so ex
cited had the man's mind become, that it was impossible to
make him desist.
Thus my disagreeable journey was continued the whole day,
until my arrival at Chinacates, a rancho belonging to the
estate of the Conde of Guatemepe. I dismoupted at the house
of the administrador before sunset. The governor was from
home, but his wife came to the door and invited me in, which
I did, and, to my great astonishment, after I had become
seated on the bench behind the long table, she took from a box
a six-barreled pistol, the only one that I had seen in the coun
try, besides my own, and walked across the floor. I drew from
my belt my pair of similar weapons and laid them upon the
table, so that she might behold also that I had twelve shots,
¦which had a desirable effect ; for she appeared no sooner to
discover them than she laid aside her own. The woman, I
knew, did not intend hostility, but as that part of the country
was very much infested with marauding land-pirates, she had
ever been accustomed to be prepared to meet the worst. How
ever, the husband soon arrived, and I fared well.
My ride, the next day, was mostly upon a ridge of a moun
tain, which would, at times, bring me in view of the great
valley of Guatemepe. No incident worthy of remark hap
pened during the day, saving that, on one occasion, I was in
terrogated, in my mother-tongue, if I was a foreigner, and,
upon replying in the affirmative, I had the pleasure of conver
sing with an Englishman. Having exchanged intelligence
from the different points of our journey, we cordially took
leave, as if each of us had been old acquaintances. It was
Sunday, and, at the hour of four o'clock, p.m., I was safely
lodged in the town of Santa Argo.
Santa Argo has mines, and is situated upon what is called
the Santa Argo river. The mines are not now worked, for
the reason of the poverty of the ore, The attention of an en^
terprising Mexican compapy has, at that place, beep directed

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 2J'
to the manufacturing of cotton, and I was credibly informed
by the superintendent of the factory, the company had bor
rowed their capital, and were enabled to make a handsome
profit, paying thirty-seven and a half per cent, upon the loan.
Thus it can easily be perceived, how dearly the Mexicans
have to pay for cotton fabrics — so much for protection
aud home markets ! The New Englander related to me what
tho swindler would call a smart, but to others a disgraceful
account of a Mexican gentleman of Saltila, who having deter
mined to go into the cotton manufacturing business, visited
the factories of the United States, for the purpose of securing
perfect machinery. Upon his arrival he made, through a mer
chant, as his broker, a purchase of a cotton factory machine,
at the cost of twenty thousand dollars, and had it shipped to
his home. He also engaged an American artizan to go to Sal
tila, and put it together. But all having arrived, upon exam
ination, it was discovered that no two wheels of the whole fa
brication belonged to one another, being all mismatched, some
too large and others too small, like the cannon balls that were
too great for their guns, not a wheel could be turned, nor a
shot fired. Thus, while the Mexican character falls short of
correctness, it is nevertheless taken advantage of sometimes.
Still it is to be hoped that the twenty thousand has never done
the swindler any good.
The Mexicans are very ingenious and apt artisans, acquiring
with much celerity the skill of any of the mechanical branches.
They never serve the long apprenticeships, that are so com
mon ip the Upiop and ip Europe ; but liaving worked at a
trade some one or two years, they think themselves sufficiently
proficient to carry it on ; and thus quit their tutor and Bet up
for themselves.
Indeed it is but seldom, generally in Mexico, the mechanic
has ever received a day's instruction in his particular trade ;
but of himself, depepdent alone upon the force of his genius
and invention, transacts his peculiar business to the satisfac
tion of his customers.
Like the Chinese, the Mexicans have a good imitative capa
city, and make any thing by pattern very tolerably. It is the
part of the accomplishments of a gentleman to know how to
shoe a horse or mule ; and all, when they travel, take with
them an assortment of shoes and nails, so that if it should be
come necessary to shoe an animal, a shoe is selected and nailed
on. The buttress is never used, for a horse is never shod until
his feet become tender, or he has to travel in the rainy Beason .
Hence it is that mechanics, who emigrate to Mexico, do not
prosper well, excepting in some of the large cities, for the la-

22.4 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Zarones all profess te be good bricklayers, carpenters, tailors,
saddlers, watchmakers, and shoemakers ; while the blacksmith
only fipds his art profitable to him ip large factories.
My journey op the pext day was ope of much vexatiop. My
servants had learned at Santa Argo, that the Indians had, after
the battle spoken of, scattered, and were committing depre
dations in every direction. For the life of me I could hardly
keep them together, for they would spur up to every indivi
dual they saw, to make inquiries of them respecting "los
Indios." My interpreter, in the midst of my difficulties, ut
terly disgusted me by his apparent want of copfidence. It is
true, that to have beeo attacked by Indians would have been
ap unpleasant reflectiop, yet it was no less so, that we were
momentarily hazarding battle from Mexicans ; and I was per
suaded, that if there was any correctness in the Indian intel
ligence, niy travelling was rendered the more safe, for the
dreaded Indians would only drive home the ladrones, and my
chances would be lessened for a rencounter, in having none but
the Camanches for my enemies, and I looked upon them as the
lesser evil of the two.
There were other reflections to prevent my retreat, for I
considered that by it I would gain nothing but delay, without
bettering my copditioo ; apd at any future period my dangers
would be no less, and, if battle from Indians or Mexicans was
to overtake me, I felt determined to meet it, and abide the re
sult,- — for " I had set my life ppop a cast, apd would stand the
hazard of the die."
1 felt much uneasiness on account of my men, for fear that
their resolution might falter, and they positively refuse to pro
ceed farther, or cause expensive delays, which latter I had
every reason to believe, was the intention of my interpreter.
At all hazards I was determined to travel to the Boca, two
days' journey from San Argo, — for at that point, I was in
formed, travellers would rendeyous and depart thence in large
parties. My interpreter declared that he would do more for
me than for any other person alive, but he abhorred the idea of
an Indian scalping knife, — and that, as for himself, he would
prefer a death-bed scene, to one on the mountains or the
plains. I did not believe that the man was a coward, but that he
had other views in his silly conversation, and I felt perplexed
with difficulties. My interpreter was a peculiar man. He bad
a solemn and melancholy countenance. His often meditative
dejection evidently showed that he had deep thoughts brood
ing in his breast, — whether they were those of sadness, or his
expression of melancholy was caught from the people he re-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 225
sided so long amongst, or the unfriendly bufferings of the
world, I could not divine — and I felt tempted to probe him.
The more easily to effect my purpose, I inquired of him, if
he desired to return with me to the United States ? His reply
was, that he felt satisfied with Mexico, and might, perhaps, at
some future period, visit the Union. I was not satisfied witli
this evasive answer, and commenced describing the facilities
of travelling, the improvements, the comforts, wealth and
prosperity in every part of the United States; when he inter
rupted me by asking if I had seen the city of  . I in
formed him that two years had scarcely passed away since I
had spent some months m the place named, and commenced
describing it,— he wept. I explained to him the flourishing
condition of the Union. I told him that the numerous deno
minations were, in one common unison, quietly enjoying the
freedom of conscience and the worship of their God. He re
plied that he did not believe there was a God, and that, if he
had had faith, he might not have been with me on that day.
He added, that, as a matter of course, he had joined the church
of Mexico — but the clergy proving to be the most immoral
people he had ever known, he felt confirmed in his original
opinions. This conversation needs no comment, for it was evident
that I had obtained the object of my investigation. — the man
was a refugee from justice.
At about one o'clock we arrived at a village called San
Dilla. The doors of the houses were all closed, and I saw
but one wretched old man sitting in the shade, who said that
an Indian had, on that morning, been seen on the top of the
mountain overlooking the town, and had fired a rifle, the bul
let striking upon a house-top. This was the reason, he stated,
for the houses being closed, the better to save the lives and
property of the inhabitants. He remarked further, that for
himself "he had lived long enough, aud had no property to lose.
Enough had been told, and my men all dismounted,. and I
followed their example, with the hope, that by the following
morning their fears would be quieted. The noise of their ar
rival, and our knocking at a door for admittance, had the ef
fect it seemed, of waking the inhabitants from their slumbers.
The news soon spread through the village, and I could hear
from every quarter, "los Americanos." It was not long be
fore a well dressed young man came and invited myself and
mv interpreter to partake of some refreshments at bis house.
"On the morning of the 21st., I gave directions for our de
parture from San Dilla, but my interpreter began making ob-
' R .0

226 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
iections, which I silenced by positively commandipg them to
be made. All appeared relpctaptly to obey, and we com
menced our march. My situation was one of the most upplea-
sapt and delicate imaginable. I was shut out from conversa
tion, which entirely placed me under the dominion of my in
terpreter ; as so far from his attempting to diminish the fears
of my men, and stimulate them to action, it appeared that he
only encouraged them in their evil forebodings.
However, I was not witliout some comfort, for Providence
rarely deserts an individual entirely destitute of friends. My
principal servant Marcelino seemed to pay me more marked
attention, and appeared to be solicitous for my welfare. I no
ticed that he would often cast a watchful eye around to my
interpreter and myself, taking occasion to pat his breast,
with his left hand, (which in Mexico signifies bravery,) to as
sure me of his firmness. I was satisfied that he was cou
rageous, for his deportment had ever convinced me, that he
was both honest in his intentions, and firm at heart.
Yet, to counterbalance these good impressions, my best
friends in the country, who, while they unhesitatingly ex
pressed their doubts of the success of my journey, had par
ticularly advised me, that when servants became the most
attentive, it was then that danger was to be apprehended ;
for a conspiracy was evidently formed against the master.
The attentions of Marcelino were, nevertheless, grateful to
me, apd I could not but conclude that his motives, under all
the circumstances, were pure ; and that he was the only friend
and advocate I had in the number of all my men. My own
deportment was difficult to maintain; having to stimulate
Marcelino by my confidence, while at the same time it was
pecessary in mapy ways to express piy distrust of the others,
including particularly my interpreter. I did not intend to
quarrel with the latter right out; for if things so far lost their
balance, I would, if no other chance of safety offered, be sure
of obtaining the hist shot. Besides, I was desirous to make
him pseful to pie ip a trying momept, whep any interpreter
would be better than none.
My journey on this day was immediately up the banks of
the same stream, upon which the town of San Argo is situ
ated. Its course was between two mountains, which ap
peared rapidly to converge as wo advanced. We passed
several villages, all of which seemed to be in a state of ex
citement. At Santa Catarine I met with forty men, who were equip
ping themselves for an excursion in the mountains, to hunt a
small party of Indians, who had within the last few days

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. i27
killed many travellers ; and between that town and the Boca
I met six mules, each loaded with the melancholy freight of a
dead man. The bodies were those of a lawyer of Durango,
who was on his way to Culiacan to be married ; two others
were young doctors, who had accompanied to wait upon him
in his anticipated joyous occasion ; the other three were ser
vants. They had come to their end mostly by Indian arrows,
the body of the lawyer having six sticking in it, besides hav
ing the flesh of his throat cut away.
Late in the evening we arrived at the town of the Boca,
situated immediately in the point where the eastern mountain
joined the western one. Most appropriately had the village
received its name, for in English it signified the mouth, and it
was in fact the mouth of the great valley of Guatempe.
I felt rejoiced in overcoming the many difficulties on my
way to this place ; for I had been advised by my countryman
of Santa Argo, if Indians were talked of on the way, not to
stop short of the Boca. The Alcalde gave me notice not to
proceed farther without strengthening my party, or waiting
for another company, and thus my progress was conditionally
impeded. My journey to Canales would be one hundred and
ninety miles, across the Madre Monte, the mother mountain ;
so called by reason of the vast piles of mountains thrown to
gether, which are not found in any other part of the country.
The Mexicans say the Madre Monte is the parent of the Cor
dilleras and the Rocky Mountains.
I was delayed some days at the Boca, to recruit the number
of my company, which was accomplished by the arrival of
some more travellers. On the 26th instant, I departed from
the Boca, (one of my servants having deserted me,) with a
party of twenty men, besides one hundred animals. As the
way over the mountains was only a narrow path, winding
along the sides of precipices and heights, just admitting the
passage of one mule, with his rider, or pack, at a time, we
became scattered during the first and second day's toil, and
our independent companies separated ; for the drivers could
not attend to the general interest, the animals of their masters
engrossing their attention severally. It was with great diffi
culty they could be managed ; consequently our whole strength
did not encamp together.
On the 28th instant, the parties both front and rear had not
been seen by us for several hours, and Marcelino expressed his
apprehensions that we would neither find grass nor water for
that night, the animals having to find their own livings, as
provender cannot be packed for them.
It was not long, however, before a place was found where

B2S. TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
all pur wants could be abundantly supplied, and we did not
hesitate to bivouac there. I had 'always beep accustomedtq
read an$ hear of Indian fights, and no Sooner were our mules
turned;loose, and our meal was over, than I directed the men
all to select their places at a distapce from the burning fires,
where they should sleep, and examine well the ground, so
that in case of an attack mistakes might not be made, of
friends for enemies.
My order having been obeyed, at the hour of dark each one
reposed at his well-know chosen spot, while arms and ammu
nition were all put in readiness for battle at any moment. It
proved' to he Well that I had taken these precautions; for,
befweep the hours of two and three o'clock at night, we were
attacked by a party of either Mexicans or Camanche Indians,
or perhaps of both ; for they frequently unite for purposes of
plunder. Judging from the reports of their guns, our enemies
¦were about twelve in number, while my own men consisted
of the interpreter and four servants.
Upon tbe first' alarm being given by the shrill whistles and
soul-shrinking yells of the savages, my men all stood up to
the tree, or rock, against which they had been laying and re
turned the fire of the enemy like brave men. This, random
firing seenied to last for about one hour, when the Indians left
us in possession of our camp.
On the following morning no dead nor wounded savages
were to be found. Two of my men were wounded, and I
sustained a further loss by one of my mules being missing ;
and had they not all fortunately been hobbled, the action of
the night would have produced a stampedo by which I would
have been left destitute. No sooner had the sun dawned than
we were all piouuted, and with my three remaining pack-
mules I commepced my line of march for Capales. There was
no retreat, and my readers may depend upon it every one of
us, as the saying is, " kept his eye skinned," looking every
moment for Indians. About one o'clock, P. M., as we as
cended a mountain height, where there was some level land,
thickly wooded and very rocky, we were suddenly brought to
a halt by a shower of arrows from Indian bow's. We had
nothing to do but fight, and my party scattered : some dis
mounted and stood behind their animals, while others kept
their seats on their saddles. As for myself, (unless I chose to
follow the example of the man who was a little lame,) I de
termined to take my chance upon mule-back ; for, added to
my Zacatecas injuries, I had not yet recovered from u stage
upset, upon Mount Airy, Va., about twelve months previous.
My mop commenced a brisk fire from their several positions

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 229
I could occasionally discover the huge body of an Indian, who
was not prudent enough to conceal himself, and took two
deliberate shots at him, which seemed to have no other effect
thap to knock fragments from around him, with my double-
barrelled gun. I then resolved to try what effect a bullet from
my long rifle-barrelled pistol would have upop his head. Hav"
ing, with deliberate aim, pulled the trigger, the long barrel told
weil the tale. By this time my favourite servant, who had never
left my side, seeing the big Indian fall, became furious for battle;
and my eyes catching a glimpse of his long sword, I immedi
ately gave the order, " Charge ! Charge I" My interpreter,
true to his duty, reiterated, " Carga! Carga!" which was no
sooner heard than every sdul was seated in his horned saddle,
and with one accord the huge Spanish spurs were driven into •
the side of our animals.
With all the enthusiasm of Indian fighting we in our turn
raised the shout and the war-cry, and by an energetic move
ment drove the enemy before us. It being impossible to cha^e
far an Indian foe, over rocks and mountain cliffs, I considered
present safety better than complete victory, and accordingly
called off my men.
Upon examining the big Indian, I found that he wore a
Wooden mask, having a. long red tongue hanging from its
mouth, besides many serpents and horns nodding and dodging
from the top of his head and round his shoulders. His leather
clothing was stuffed with moss, such as is used ip the United
States for filling the cushions of sofas and mattresses. None
of my men Were injured. I had an arrow to pass through my
hat, and two through my Mexican blanket, at the horn of my
saddle. These Indians had notched two arrows at a time, and
are generally reputed to be very certain of their aim. A batr
tie with arrows is of course noiseless.
Mounted on my little mule I continued to pursue my journey.
It is not considered safe to travel on any other animal over
these mountains, as the mules are very sure-footed and saga
cious ; often having to make a delicate step, or jump, on a
craggy steep ; in which case he will, with great sagacity,
pause and balance himself, apparently to feel if his rider is
firmly seated ; and then, as quick as thought, he makes the
bound which lands his feet on tho opposite rock ; a, slip from
which would inevitably have precipitated both man and beast
down a deep and craggy vortex.
To give some idea of the height of the Madre Monte, I will
remark that the traveller is often obliged to consume the
whole day in ascending a mountain ; which when overcome,
to his astonishment he beholds that upon the supremacy of

230 TRAVELS IN MEXICO?
heights, as he had imagioed the one he has just ascepded, he
has but to commeoce apother arduops apd giddy task of reach
ing an emipence, perhaps greater than the other. And what
overpowered my philosophy was, that the tops and the glens of
these mountaips, mapy thousand feet above the the level of the
plains, abounded in water, and I have been informed that some
of these heights are covered with bog, while a well capnot be
supk deep epough ip the plaips to obtaio water.
t& The abuudapce of water is the only difficulty to be contend-
ed within mining upon the mountains, while at the same time
there is nothing so npeded on the plains below as the liquid
element. From such experieuce ip Mexico I api forced to look
' upon that country as a natural paradox. It is — aud is not —
a contradiction in humanity, religion and nature. When the
mind of the traveller resorts to the early history of the coup-
try, apd beholds the formidable patural barriers' which the
Spapiards had to overcome, he is astonished at the remarkable
rapidity with which the aborigines were subdued. The spirit
of discovery and of conquest once kindled, the romantic
excitement it produced was overpowering, and with an en
thusiasm which nothing but a like cause could engender, and
an avarice never to be satiated — the Spaniards swept over
plain and mountain with an irresistible power, and subdued a
continent, the dominion of which extended to the limits of
Cancer on the north, and Capricorn on the south.
On this night I bivouaced on a greater elevation than I had
before done, and on the next morning I had the pleasure to
behold a fine frost, with which my blankets were covered. It
was the only one I had seen in the country, and I could not
withhold the temptation of touching it with my fipgers, and
and cooling my hands with the white dew of heaven. It was
however, short lived, but as long as it lasted I could not take
my eyes from the pure sight, or suppress the thoughts of my
own native hills of Virginia.
My guide informed me that I could, on that day, reach Ca
neles, and the cheering news seemed to animate my whole
party with the thoughts, that one more ride would put us be
yond the danger of Indians, and into an inhabited country.
Shortly after we set out, we had to ascend a mountain, which
brought us in view of a snow-capped peak which reached far
above any other point. Having descended the opposite side,
we travelled along the bed of a river for some four or five
miles. The stream was shut up between two mountains,
whose rocky and precipitous heights prohibited a pathway
along its sides. Many were the curiosities, and the freaks of
nature that I beheld in the singular formations of the rocks.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 23l
On the top of a high point on one of these mountains was a
flat rock, just the shape of a man's hand, which'sat upright on
a wrist. The mammoth haud could not have been less than
one hundred feet in height. It appeared to poipt due porth
apd south, as if to prevept the traveller, who was copfiped
betweep these wild apd rugged barriers, from becoming be
wildered, and thus lose his proper direction. All the rock ot
the mountains seemed to be of a rotten lime and sandstone
order. The Madre Monte is a vast mountain, having hundreds of
smaller ones piled upon her broad bosom. By a perception of
the imagination she seems in sportive magnificence to fondle
and cherish her nestlings at the bleached and pure white pipple
of her breast.
We travelled op that day over a coptipuous range of moun
tains. The day was drawiog to a close, apd yet Caneles did
not appear. My men were all gay — now sipging merrily apd
then vauntingly yelling the Indian war-whoop. In the even
ing I despatched my guide forward to engage me rooms at a
meson ip towo. He had beep absept about two hours, when
at sunset we overtook him on the top of a mountain. His
countenance seemed so dejected that I began to apprehend
some calamity. However, I was soon undeceived by his in
forming me that he had been mistaken in his calculation, and
that it would not be until the following day that we could
reach Caneles.
On receiving this unwelcome intelligence, we hastened
down the mountain, by which time darkness overtook us.
We dismounted and kindled our fire, and unpacked the ani
mals. I caused lights to be set around the ground in different
directions, so that I was enabled to review all immediately
about us. We were on a wet place with a soft soil. There
was just level space enough to stake my tent, for the first time
since it had been in my possession. My cartera also I had de
termined to sleep on that night, for the only time since I had
been in the mountains, as a prudential step for the preserva
tion of my health; and accordingly gave directions for the
work to be done.
My interpreter complained much of my guide, expressing his
want of confidence in him, saying, that he should not be sur
prised if he was in league with a marauding party for our de
struction, by his deceiving us on that day. I endeavoured to
quiet the man's fears, by saying that I believed him innocent
of any bad intentions, and told him that mistakes were com
mon to every person, and that it was evidently as much his
interest to take us to Caneles, as it was our own to get there.

232 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
My tent pitched, and my cartera erected, I, for the first time
in four days and nights, took off my belt of arms, and laid it
on the common pile of weapons at the mouth of the marquee.
My servants busily engaged themselves in preparing dinner.
While they were thus empfoyed at the fire, a little distapce
from the tent, my interpreter gravely approached nie, apd said
that he copfidently believed we would be attacked that night,
and he felt desirous to make a proposition to me, which was,
that he and I should leave the camp and lay upon the way
side, to attack the Indians when they would be stealing upon
us. I replied that I should rest myself that night, though the
mountains should be covered with howling devils, threatening
to devour me alive.
He was meditative a short time, and again remarked, that
as I was unwilling to accompany him, apd he did not want to
see me taken by surprise, as I had been on the night previous,
he wished permission to adventure alone, that he might give
the alarm before the enemy could storm my camp. A thought
at the moment gleamed through my mind, and I resolutely
informed him, that all the arms in the camp belonged to
me, and that he should carry none of them with him. Suit
ing the action to the word, I stepped between him and the
weapons. The interpreter instantly sank to the earth, as if
death had overtaken him.
I raised my belt and buckled it round my person, then put
my gun and holster-pistols in my cartera, and motioned to my
servants to put on their arms. I noticed that the conversation
and actions of the interpreter had attracted their attention,
and they all obeyed me. Marcelino drew his knife, and seated
himself behind the suspected man, and signified hy a motion
of his hand, that if he moved he would lot him have it — to
which I podded usseot.
With a heart aud head that ached, I could eat but little.
My good servant seeming to insist so much, by his signs, that
I should lie down, I concluded to do so, but not to sleep. Ex
hausted nature, however, was supreme to my will, and I no
sooner extended myself, than the world was lost to me.
Marcelino awoke me in the morning before my interpreter had
arisen. I had him aroused, and when chocolate was over, for
fear of an attack, and thinking that, perhaps, I had judged
him too harshly, I handed him back his weapons.
We commenced our day's, journey by ascending the next
mountain. ' Having travelled some distance upon its ridge, my
interpreter dropped his hat, and dismounted to pick it up. I
had passed him but a short distance, when I concluded to look
aronnd, Not hearing the tread, of his animal, I suddenly

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 233
turned my head and discovered the man in the act of pointing
his gun at me, over his saddle. I wheeled instantly, and
drawing my rifle pistol, made towards him. He said that he
had a second time dropped his hat, and was only in the act of
mounting his horse when I saw him. I commanded him to
mount, telling hiui, that if he dared again to get behind me,
under any circumstances, it must prove fatal to one of US, and
we continued our travel.
The scenes of nature through which we passed were of the
most stupendous kind, — consisting of mountains, rocks, cata
racts, and deep glens. The deer, the wolf, and the wild tur
key inhabited the dense forests— nor was there any habitation
between the Boca and where we then were. I heartily desired
to see Caneles.
I was informed that there is a species of grizzly bear that
lives in the clefts of these mountains. They are said to be as
white, and in fact the same animal, as those found in the ice
regions of the north. They are supposed to have made their
way from the regions of the north, their native clime, upon the
long range of the Rocky mountains. I had to admire the
abundance and beauty of the game I witnessed. But my guns
had not been loaded to harm them. I had no shots but for
defence. By the middle of the day we had ascended a mountain that
overlooked all others in the vicinity. The air was cold, and
we all drew op our serapis. My guide seemed desirous to
show me some object. I inquired of my interpreter what it
was. He informed me that it was the Pacific ocean.
From the position I occupied, like Nunez de Bilboa, on the
heights of the Isthmus of Darien, I looked over land until it
was lost in the vast immensity of misty space — the vapours of
the waters of the ocean exhibiting a marked contrast to the
dry and clear atmosphere of the parched land. The sight was
sublimely extensive, yet I did not enjoy the view as much as
if I had been more happily conditioned.
We descended a high mountain, and my guide gave the joy
ful intelligence that Caneles was in sight, and pointed out the
opposite height that also overlooked the town. At length we
came to the brink of the mountain, which commanded the view
of a vast ravine, in the bottom of which, situated upon a bold
and rapid stream, is the towp of Caneles.
The mountain was precipitous. We made a slow zig-zag
progress, making an angle at almost every ten or twenty
paces. My journey down the height, with Caneles constantly
in sight, was three hours at least. And thus, upon the even-
ipg of the 28th ipstapt, I dismounted at the house rented for

234 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
me by my guide. While the sceptre of thought shall hold
dominion over my mind, apd whep all other impressiops are
blotted out of my memory, I shall never forget the two little
boys who came running, with tears streaming from their eyes,
and exclaimed, " Adios Teo9" " How do you do, uncle ?" I
clasped them to my bosom, and wept for an only and a de
parted brother.

CHAPTER XVIII.
My first object. An American living at Caneles. Interested with
my voice. Development made by Marcelino. Mineral of
Caneles. Sublime view of the scenery of Caneles. The climate
of Caneles. Mountains abound with silver. Quicksilver of
Caneles. Mr. John Buchan, governor of an English company.
Disease of goitre. Doctor Eberle. Feelings of myself. Did not
repose at Caneles. Journey down the Canelea river. View of
mountain scenery. All nature in Mexico at war. Mule more
sapient than a horse. The town of Topie. Planting corn.
Emerge from between two Oerroes. View of open space beauti
ful. Species of birds. Remarkable account of the love of an
Indian woman. Arrived at Tamazula. President Victoria.
Hospitality of the prefect and Curate. Children of priests.
Tamazula river. Uniaya river. Culiacan river. Town of
Cosala. Mazatalan. A voyage from China. Fish and oysters.
Guadaloupe de Calvo. English silver mines. Mountains abound
in silver. Mineral of Refugio. Return to the mineral of
Caneles. Inhabitants of the hot and cold regions. Difference of
temperature of the Pacifio and Atlantic coasts. Departed from
Caneles for Guanosebi. Unintelligible conversation. Met with
Mr. Buchan at Guanosebi. Moonshine in Mexico. A general,
a priest, and a lawyer. Santa Anna's hacienda campus. Mexican
attachment.
Mv first object, after my arrival at Caneles, was to refresh
myself froni the fatigues of travel ; and accordingly, having
partaken of a good dinner, I retired to my cartera, where,
until the next morning, I indulged in delightful slumber, and
many dreams — which was butlivipg over again my hopes, my
hazards, and my Bufferings.
The 1st of March found me on my feet long before the sun
had gilded the cloud-capped heights that overlooked the town.
I had understood that an American lived in Caneles, and my
solicitude was to see him, before my pecessitjes would require

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 23S
me to transact further business through the interpreter whom
I had in my employment, and whom I intended that day to
discharge, regardless of all considerations.
A change of my condition was obligatory, and if I should
be bettered, my situation could be no worse, and I said to my
little nephews, "tray game los Americanos." They had arisen
early to presept me with some flowers ; they took me by the
hand and conducted me to the house of my fellow country
man, just in the same manner as a blind man would have
been led the way. I felt much interest in the sympathy of
my boys ; for they seemed to think that, as I could not con
verse with them in Spanish, I might also be deficient in eye
sight, and with the greatest care did they lead me along,
pointing out every article and turn that we came to.
The imagination of my nephews, that I was deficient in
sight, was not more strange than the impression that the
Mexicans often have, of those who do not speak their lan
guage ; for they will talk in a loud Voice to a foreigner as if
he was deaf, and the oftener they receive the reply " no in-
tende" the louder will they vociferate.
I explained to the American my misgivings, and the sus
picions I had of my interpreter, and requested him to con
verse with my servants, and if possible to ascertain how far
my conjectures were correct.
My friend was but a short time absent, when he returned,
bringing with him Marcelino, who related that my interpreter
had informed my men that there was gold in my trunk, and
had made them the proposition that I should be murdered,
and they, with the spoil, make their safe retreat to the Pacific
coast. As for myself, I felt convinced of the truth of his statement,
and could then well discern why the interpreter had expressed
so many fears of my guide, which was done to prevent any
suspicions of himself being otherwise than interested for my
safety. Indeed, so strong were my suspicions of him on the
day previous, that I should certainly have come to deadly
conflict with him, had I not wished to reach Caneles on the
same evening, as I was unwilling to encamp another night
along with so dangerous a man. I, therefore, did not wish,
if it could be avoided, to take his life, or to run the risk of
losing my own, knowing that, when at Caneles, I could easily
relieve myself.
I had my interpreter and all my servants summoned before
the Alcalde, and, in his presence, settled with each. In dis
charging them from my service, I commanded that they should
depart from the town immediately, or else suffer the conse-

236 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
quences of the law. Marcelino I would gladly have reserved,
but he was obliged te return to Zacatecas to deliver the ani
mals I had hired of his master.
The mineral of Caneles is situated in a deep and narrow ra
vine, having the mountains on the east and west, rising im
mediately to a general elevation of from two to three thou
sand feet above the town. I could find no one who could
give ma the height of any of the northern mountains above the
sea, or their latitude and longitude. For the want of proper
instruments I was unable to ascertain those important scien
tific observations. The mountain to the east forms ap exten-
sive curve, apd for mapy hupdred feet appears to have ro de
clivity, but is of ap abrupt perpepdicular steep ; while ip some
parts of it the rocks protude in vast dimensions over the deep
gulf beneath.
High towards heaven, yet not to the height of the moun
tain, the beholder cannot cast his eyes without viewing the
deep azure blue mist hovering over the scene. This mist
arises from the foaming tide of the Caneles river, as it bounds
and surges over the rocks, down its headlong course due
north. The mountain to the west is an immense rock, only
accessible to the slow and circuitous footsteps of man and tlie
flight of birds. Its uneven side has a dark and brownish ap
pearance. Its extended top is crowned with two peaks, or
nipples, which circumsnance has caused it to be named the
Silla Cerro, or the saddle mountain. The whole is completed
by an extensive view between the two cerros to the north ;
while, to the south, the towering points of the Madre Monte
are visible.
The climate of Caneles is spring and summer. Vegetables
and fruits which abound in any other latitudes, are plentifully
cultivated there. The trees are perpetually green ; for as fast
as the leaves fade and fall, others are fresh expanding ; added
to which, the golden harvests of the orange tree, are ever
beautiful to the eye and tempting to the taste. The name
Caneles means cinnamon. Whether this plant was ever cul
tivated there I could not ascertain, apd was therefore at a
loss to kpow how the place acquired its name, unless it was
by a freak of fancy. The streets are necessarily narrow. To
toe inhabitants this is no inconvenience, for a wheeled vehicle
of any description has never been seen in the town ; indeed, it
would be impossible for one to ascend the mountain at any
point. The mountains of Caneles have ever been celebrated, from
the early discovery of the country, for abounding in silver, but
from the poverty of the ore, the mines have never been ex-

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 237
tensively worked. But what has rendered the place famous
as a mineral locality is, that veins of quicksilver have been
found there. These have never been worked successfully, j
learned that the people were much flattered with hopes, from
the fact that an English Company had but recently commenced
opening a mercury mine, under the experienced management
of Mr. John Buchan, an enterprising Englishman. Mr. Buchan
is the son of the celebrated Captain Buchan, who was lost in
a British exploring expedition to the North Pole.
I was shown some specimens of quicksilver ore, of which
there were two kinds. The liquid metal was contained in a
soft red stone. In the first kind the mineral Was not percep
tible in the rock, which was only ascertained to be possessed
of a foreign substance by its weight. The second and last de
gree of specimens differed from the first oply by the mineral
protruding out of the stone in small detached particles, the
only contrast being, that the ope was richer in mercury than
the other.
Quicksilver is uever found but in secondary formations. The
one is pulverised into an impalpable powder, and the mineral
is obtained by washing the offal from the silver. The inhabi
tants of the mines of Caneles are most grievously affected
with the loathsome disease, bronchocele, or goitre, called by
them buche. This distressing complaint is a chronic enlarge
ment of the thyroid gland. The goitre tumour exists some
times on both, but most generally at Caneles, on one side
of the larynx and trachea. As the tumour enlarges, it be
comes more inconvenient, and distresses the respiration and
the voice, in proportion to its inward tendency. ,
At Caneles, where one half of the population was diseased,
I saw some of these tumours of a great size, having to be sus
pended in a handkerchief or bandage from the neck. I did
not witness any so large as those described by Doctor Mott in
his travels in Switzerland ; for he says, that at Martigny he saw
one, — "the size of the tumour was of such colossal dimen
sions, that the poor woman was obliged to crawl along the
floor upon her hands and feet, dragging the gigantic dewlap
and pendulous mass after her."
At Caneles, children born of goitred parents are certain to
be idiots, or deaf and dumb: in some instances the limbs are
feeble and ricketty. The disease is hereditary. From all the
information I could Obtain of the disease at Caneles, it must
have had its origin from the atmosphere, and not from the
water. The most effectual remedy there used was half a
drachm of hydrate of potash, mixed in one ounce of lard, and
nightly rubbed on in small quantities.

238 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Doctor Eberle, ip his treatise or goitre, rem arks — "In many
localities, where bronchocele prevails endemically, particu-
larly in the deep valleys of the Alps, the disease is very
frequently attended with stunted and deformed developement
of the body, and a corresponding deterioration of the intellec
tual faculties. It is thus that, amidst the magnificent and
beautiful scenes of nature, man alone is doomed to dwindle
— to siok uuder the inevitable influences that surround
him, from his noblest prerogatives to the lowest state of
corporeal and intellectual deterioration. The unfortunate
beings who are afflicted ip this piapper, apd, in some situ
ations, the majority of the native inhabitants are more or
less affected, apd stuuted ip growth, with epormops heads,
tumid pecks, apd mapifest a degree of meptal habitude,
which ip aggravated ipstapces amounts to absolute idiotism.
The combipatiops of affection is called cretinism, apd the un-
fortunate themselves cretines. In no part of the world is the
disease so prevalent, and so distressing in its character, as in
some of the valleys of the Alps and Appenoipes. Ip certaip
districts of Switzerlapd afld Savoy, about the whole of the
iudigepous populatiop are more or less affected with goitrous
enlargements. In the valley of the Rhone, at Martigny, St.
Maurice, Agile, Villeneuve, Bourg, Lucerne, and at Dresden,
and in the valleys ol Piedmont, this disease is extremely com
mon. Goitre occurs also in various parts of Asia, particularly
in Chinese Tartary, and Hindostan ; and in certain districts in
Africa it is said to be very common. In England, the disease
occurs very frequently in certain mountainous districts of the
counties of Derbyshire, Buckinghamshire, Surrey, and Nor
folk. In our own country also there are localities-in which
goitre is of frequent occurrence. At Bennington, Camden,
Sandgate, Windsor and Chester, in Vermont, bronchocele is
very common. In the state of New York it is frequently met
with at Oneida, the German falls, in the Onondaga valley, in
the township of Manlius, at Brothertowp, ip the neighbour
hood of Angelica in Alleghany county, and in various other
localities in the north- western districts of the stale. In Penn
sylvania, it occurs, not unfrequently, at Pittsburg, at Cannons-
borough, Brownsville, and along the Alleghany, Sandusky and
Monongahela rivers. It is met with in Virginia at Morgan-
town and on the banks of the Cheat river."
None but him who has been similarly conditioned can ima
gine the feelings of myself, when standing by the tomb of a
relative, in a distant and foreign country. The health of my
brother, J. P. Gilliam, M. D., United States Consul at Mon
terey, on the Pacific, having become delicate, he retired to the

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. -239
m®uniams °f Capeles, for the benefits that might accrue but,
at +'-at retired and isolated place it pleased the Divine will
tfi it he should depart from this to a better state of existence.
Having taken into my charge his two sons, it became neces
sary that I should visit some of the towns in the surrounding
country, which, perhaps, would cause me to travel to Maz-
telan. That I might finish my business without the loss of time, I
did not tarry at Caneles longer than till the 4th inst., on which
day I found myself again in a saddle, aud accompanied by four
others ; an American, of Caneles, going as my interpreter.
Strange as it may appear, as at the time it did so to me, my
road, for ninety miles, was to be down the bed of the Caneles
river, confined as it is, for that distance, between two cerros,
upon the right hand and on the left. I do not believe that I
shall hazard a contradiction of opinion when I express my
belief that, perhaps, for the same number of miles, another like
journey is not made on the face of the earth. The river
averages from about fifteen to twenty yards in width, at first,
but, at the latter half of the distance, it is increased by the
junction of another stream, bedded immediately between
mountains, abruptly rising to an immense height.
These mountains are only accessible to the flight of birds.
The fall of water is rapid, and must be from two to three
hundred feet in the mile. The bed of the river is rocky, and,
in some places, of such extent as to almost choke up the way
from the passage of travellers. A journey on that stream is
always perlious ; for often, while an animal would be in the
water up to the feet of its rider, many short angles have to be
made to pass around the large smooth rocks, too high to be
sumounted, while the sure footed beast would have to bound
over others, plunging into the water on the opposite side. A
mishap would, in many instances, overthrow both rider and
mule into deep sucks, flooding round rocks, which would
inevitably destroy them.
There were, nevertheless, times when short points of rocks
or earth, sometimes steep, and at others low, had to be passed.
Then the travellers would have to encounter the cat's-paw,
or some other briery growth, which would tear his clothes
and flesh ; for all the vegetable kingdom in Mexico is thorny.
Indeed the idea often strikes one, that all nature there is at
war — the birds, the beasts, the creeping insects and reptiles,
as well as the vegetation, are all armed for formidable aggres
sion and defence ; and yet, above every other consideration,
man, who should be lord and subduer of uncultivated nature,
is the bane over all, for he excels in his unkind and hostile

240 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.'
deeds. Tlie traveller has to spend the night at some JjairQW
nook that may promise scanty picking for his animau., ^fad
safety for himself. He does not proceed half a day down the
river before he perceives that the monntain-sides, which wrq
admit of growth, are covered with forests of log-wood.
I was of the opinion that the mule was the most stupid,
as well as the most stubborn of animals : but, on my first
acquaintance with him, I was agreeably disappointed. To
do him justice, I now express myself, that I believe him to be
more useful and more sapient than the horse. He is more
docile — coming and going to his work with unsubdued forti
tude and URchangeable habits — and, if obstinate, never so
without the shadow of a just cause. He has a distinctive
knowledge of his master, apd all his other animals ; and, pp-
drivep, will select his own apporao, (pack-saddle,) out of an
hundred ; which, when packed, he will take the most parti
cular care of; that his cargo will not come in contact with
another. If he has to pass upder a limb, he will just stoop
enough to let this load pass the obstacle untouched. If a
rock projects from the side of a mouutain, his ipstipct ip-
structs him to lean to one side, so that a box of goods will be
unharmed. I haye had my riding-mule to stoop and lean, so that my
body would have free passage under suspended difficulties or
through narrow defiles. He will punctually follow the whis
tle, or the tinkling of a small bell, when Ins path-way is too
naiTOW, bushy and crooked for him to see his leader ; and at
night, when he is turned loose to graze, the mule will pot
suffer the animals pf another ariero to associate and mix with
his own company, but will drive them off at the cost of life.
He never, in the darkest night, loses sight of his leader,
which is always a white horse, or mule, and in the morning,
when each ariero goes in search of his animals, each will find
his own clustered around, or in sight of, their particular leader.
The mule, however, is a despiser of his own species, and in
his love for the horse will, day and night, fight for the nearest
sociable position with him. But, perhaps, the reader may
think I am jesting ; yet, if he will take a trip to Mexico, he
will find that I have not told all for fear of incredulity.
The town of Topie is a rich mineral, situated upon a high
mountain, fifteen miles north of Caneles. It is a place of
great antiquity, and has three times been destroyed by the
Indians ; to this day, bars of silver, that were buried under
its runis, are found ; while silver bullets are ploughed up in
the fields. Since I have mentioned the subject of ploughing,
I will remark, that I made inquiries as to the mode of culti-<

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 241.
yating the land in the cold regions of Madre Monte, and was
informed, that there lived in those mountains some Indians -
who haye not been civilized, who "are in the habit of planting
their corn to a depth beyond the influence of the cold: Some
times, I was told, they were known to have planted the
grain as low as two feet under the earth, and if it should
germinate and sprout to the surface, before the seasons of
frost had passed, and be nipped down, the warm earth beneath
would nourish the roots, and cause them to again grow up to
perfection. Thus while the roots of corn are in a Warm
region, the stalk and fruit are nourished in a colder clime. ' * '
The Indians were the first cultivators of corn, and well un
derstood its nature ; and I was struck with the probable cor
rectness of the philosophical reasoning of the aborigines. I
remembered well the time of having read in agricultural
works, that roots of corn would penetrate to unknown depths,
and the ostensible reason of the phenomenon at once appeared
to me. The root was seeking a warmer element downwards,
so as the more effectually to cast upwards its genial nourish*
ment to the stalk.
My journey down the river was three days in continuance,
and when I emerged from between the two cerroes, it was a
source of much rejoicing to pie ; for it would be difficult for
any one to imagine' its disagreeableness, who never has had
the misfortune to travel througli water and over rocks, for
that length Of tinie. If their animals are not shod, their feet
soon became tender, and the fatigued traveller finds that, be
sides being reduced to the necessity of progressing slowly, he
cannot help sympathising with his distressed beast ; while, at
the same time, he1 is obliged to drive the barbarous'Spanish
spur into his sides.
The view of open space was never more beautiful or wel
come to my sight. The forests a perfect medley hi every direc-
tiop, by their growth being so indiscriminately mixed, that
the whole woods were thickly matted, and almost impenetra
ble, save by the paths of ancient usage. The birds,' too, of
many descriptions, strange to me, were merrilly singing— the
flocks of paroquets of many species, drowning, by their wild
arid frantic screams, the melodies of the other portion of the
feathered tribe. There were some birds that particularly
attracted my attention — the Chechalaca, or pheasant ; to me
it resembled more the guinea foul than any other bird I was
acquainted with, being symmetrically and beautifully propor-
tioned^-its plumage was dark with slight variations of shade,
and although wild in its native state, 110 fowl is piore capable
of beiog repdered domestic. . ' '

242 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
The Gonaco attracted my attentiop from its peculiar habits.
It seemed to ipdulge in hallooing a sound that resembled its
name, apd was seldom observed to feed ; it is said of these
birds that they build their nests of a poisonous root, only to be
found in these habitations ; and it is unknown whether it ori
ginates from the bird itself or else it alone possesses the secret
of the locality of the plant. This root is said to be a specific
remedy for the sting of the alicran.
My interpreter had seen much of New Mexico, and from his
acquaintance with the trappers of the north, was possessed of
a fund of anecdote very interestipg to me, duriflg my journey
— ope of which he related to me, which deeply epgaged my
atteptioH apd feelipgs, as a remarkable tale of love. A trap
per had takep to himself a wife, with whom he lived for
several years in the utmost confidence apd affectiop. The
woman Rot oply loved her lord, but adored hipi as beipg
vastly her superior. Her oply care was to cultivate maize —
to dry his meats — stretch his skips — apd to neatly keep their
little wigwam, to please her beloved white man. But the
faithless husband, discontented with the pearl of great price,
was tempted by other beauties, and took to his lodge another,
whose loveliness seemed to please him better. The old in
cumbent, without expressing her sorrow, at once departed ;
but after the lapse of several months returned. She suddenly
appeared under the roof where alone she had enjoyed happi
ness. The trapper- and his bride were taken by surprise ; he
at once beheld the altered features, the hollow cheek, the
sunken and fixed eye, and the heart of the man relented. He
kindly spoke to her ; but her grief and her purposes were too
deeply settled, to be then cajoled in her wrongs. With an
eye rivetted upon him, and a voice that faltered from the
pangs of a broken heart, she said, " George, I am going to
die," and before the guilty hunter could arrest the fatal knife,
she had driven it to the hilt in her bosom, and expired at his
feet. On the 8th inst., I arrived at the town of Tamazula. This
town is also in addition called the Fortunate, a name be
stowed upon it by Victoria, when President of Mexico, in
consequence of its having been his birthplace; however,
agreeable to the adage, that a prophet has no honour in his
own land, the memory of the illustrious chieftain and president,
was not cherished by his former fellow-citizens, in a manner
that reflected glory on the departed. They did not hesitate to
affirm that his successful career commenced by his having
been a highway robber. The town contained about one thou
sand inhabitants, and exhibited symptoms of a rapid decline,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 243
by the appearance of the houses in every part of the city,
which seemed to be in a falling condition.
I was particularly pleased with the hospitality of the citi
zens of Tamazula. Sr. Don Morillo, the Prefect, would not
consent that I should board at any other than his own house ;
while the Curate gave a brilliant ball, to which I was invited.
Although the Curate seemed to be a man of about sixty years
of age, his person was singularly well proportioned and
handsome. His elegance of manners and splendid waltzing,
appeared to me, notwithstanding he was a curate, to be more
becoming in him than any other individual I ever beheld. Two
of his daughters, as also one of the priests of the town, were
at the entertainment. The young ladies were as modest,
beautiful, and accomplished as any others I saw ; insomuch
that they far eclipsed all others in the room, on that truly
joyous occasion.
It may appear remarkable to the Christians of the Upited
States that the clergy of Mexico should have children, but I
can assure them, that they may have no doubt on that score ;
for no truth is of more acknowledged publicity, and nothing
is more common than for the favourite unmarried wives to
live with the holy fathers — at the same time their families are
better educated and provided for, as a community, than any
others in all Mexico.
I was informed by Mr. John Russell, an old Englishman of
Zacatecas, that the curate of Tamazula was a remarkably
honest and discreet man, in all his transactions ; agreeable to
the manners and customs of the country, — for by no other
standard can a European or a North American judge of Mexi
cans, but by the contrast of the habits of some with others, in
the peculiar characteristics of their national character. They
are entirely independent of all the world else, in their re
ligious, political and social relations — having at the same time
all of the institutions of the rest of civilization, — yet differing
materially in their practice of the fundamental principles of
them ; their teachers, the priests, and the old Spaniards
causing them to believe that they are the perfection of crea
tion, and that it is their high prerogative to make all mankind
bend to their supremacy, in conjunction with the religion of
Christ, the Apostles and the Pope ; in order to answer their
own selfish purposes. I have not, for the life of me, been
able to discover from whence those enlightened and refined
people have derived their power, to be the best commentators
on ethics, expositors of law, and arbitrators of social compacts.
Tamazula is situated on what is called the Tamazula river;
it being the stream that floods out of the Madre Monte, upon

244 TRAVELS IN MEXICO^
which Caneles is built ; but from the junction of the Umaya
with it, it assumes the name of Culiacan, and continues to be
a deep broad stream, until it arrives upon the plain next to
the ocean. It there sinks, and is absorbed by the sand ; and
ihOuths in the Pacific — an insignificant and diminutive river.
The city of Culiacan is situated near the union of the above
named rivers. It contains above five thousand inhabitants,
and is the capital of the department of Sinaloa. The city does
not differ in its appearance, or in the character of its people,
from any other capital of Mexico. But there, a? in the other
cities, the priests, with their broad brimmed shovel hats, and
the military, have congregated to take care of the souls and
weal of their dear people. General Urea is the appointed
king-bird of the corn-crib in that department.
Cosala is a town about one day's travel from Culican, and
from Cosala it is but two day's journey to the port of Mazat
lan on the Pacific ocean. Mazatlan is entirely defepceless
from the snrges and winds of the ocean, not possessing any of
the attributes of 'a good harbour, and is unsafe for shipping by
its having a' large rock immediately before the town, upon
which vessels founder in time of storms. However, Mazatlan
is the principal commercial port on the Mexican coast, on the
Pacific ocean. It contains about five thousand inhabitants,
composed of every people from the four quarters of the globe,
and seems to have been an attractive point for all the varieties
of the human family. I imagine that the same number of
people can hardly be found, where there is such a farago of
complexions and tongues.
Mazatlan is the principal stopping point in a voyage from
China, by way of the Sandwich Islands, to the United States
and Europe. The scale and the shell-fish of the Pacific coasts
are abundant and excellent. There is a blue-gilled oyster
caught ' upop this coast, equal to apy of those in the Chesa
peake bay. The Mexicans of the Pacific have a manner of
preserving them, different from any other mode I ever heard
Of. Immediately upon taking them from the water, they are
thrown upon the fire, and when roasted until the shell opens
the oyster is salted and dried. Put up in this manner it will
soundly keep in any climate, just like the mackerel that are
barreled up in salt.
On the plains of the Pacific coast I enjoyed perspiration, tlie
atmosphere being more dense and humid than in the interior,
and the heights of little elevation. Instead of the south- w-est
winds having always a refreshing coolness in them, it was not
unfrequently the case that they resembled the monsoons of
the east.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. $lk
Guadaloupe de Calvo is a town of about ten thousand in
habitants. ( It is situated about two day's journey from Tama
zula. It is, I was informed, of only ten or twelve, years'
existence, and its great population can only be accounted for
from the fact that people congregate at such places where
minerals are in successful operation. The silver mines here
are worked by an English company, under the management of
Mr. John Buchan. The mines yielded very profitably, but the
ore was becoming poor. The enterprizing agent informed nte
that it was hisjntention to seek new veins, and abandon those
of Guadaloupe de Calvo.
The houses of Guadaloupe are covered with shingles, and
the windows had sashes and glass in them, as the English
were the first builders there, and besides timber is plentiful in
thfe mountains.
The mouptaip regions around Guadaloupe abounded iri very
rich silver ore. An English gentleman related to me an in
teresting account of the richest vein of silver perhaps that was
ever opened. At a place called Refugia, (the refuge,) an
Indian who followed the trade of making pack-saddles, haying
ascended a mountain in search of a particular kind, Of grass,
which he used for the purpose pf stuffing, perceived under a
turf, a rock matted to a bunch of roots. Upon examining the
stone, he found that it was heavier than rocks of that size
generally are, and exhibited the specimen to a Spaniard, who
informed him that it was one half silver.
The liberal Indian told the Spaniard where he had made the
valuable discovery, and offered him a free gift of one half Of
hi.s right in the mine. The partners, with buoyant hopes,
commenced proving the value of their enterprise ; which re
sulted in the entire vein being one half silver, and the other half
stone. Affer toey had extracted several miiliorts of dollars of
the precious metal, the mine became impoverished, and was
abandoned, and the Indian and his partner were left worse Off
than when they first began to try their fortune. They, Were
remarkably industrious in squandering their money faster than
it could be dug from the earth. The Spaniard is ho more ; the
poor Indian is yet alive, and a beggar at Mazatlan.
The inland road to California is direct from Guadaloupe de
Calvo, north-west to the mouth of the Colorado river, where
it enters into the Gulf of California. This way is like the
most of all others of the Mexican rOads, being nothing more
than Indian trails, travelled only by animals, and never by
carriages. . :
The country between Guadaloupe de Calvo and, the Colorado
river is much infested by the Apache Indians, Who are very

246 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
barbarous, often cutting off the nose and ears of travellers,
close to the head, and then turning them loose to their fate.
The ports of Mazatlan and Guaymas are the usual ports of
embarkation to Lower and Upper California, by the way of
the ocean. But as I have preferred to comprehend my obser
vations on California in a supplement to my journal, the reader
is referred to their perusal as thus embodied.
By the 25th of April, I returned to Caneles. My journey
to the tierra calienta (the hot region) had been a very pleasing
one ; for, while there, the pores of my skin had been opened,
and instead of looking and feeling as if I should dry up like a
chip, as in the arid elevations of the Cordilleras, 1 enjoyed a
healthful glow, with sometimes a profuse perspiratiop upon
the surface, which caused my whole system to feel as if I had
been turned loose from a prison-house, for the benefit of free
respiration. The inhabitants of the tierra calienta differ very much in
their appearance from those of the tierra frio and the tierra
templado, the cold and the temperate plains. The people of
the hot clime are of a darker tinge, excepting those who with
care confine themselves to the shade. With these the conti
nued perspiration has the effect of purifying and bleaching the
cheeks. Tliere was another marked difference observable — •
although the major part of the population had not such robust
frames, nor looked so healthy, there were more persons of ple
thoric habit in the hot, than either of the other regions.
The table lands are healthy, the people mostly dying of old
age. A barber of a northern department shaved me, who was
said to be ninety years of age. This man said he had been
barber and chamberlain to two of the viceroys of Mexico.
His hand was steady and his deportment firm.
The ladies of Mexico consider the hair of their heads one of
the most attractive ornaments. It is only in the tierra cali
enta that it can grow to perfection, sometimes reaching to the
ground ; and, when dishevelled, covering the whole body.
I have never yet learned from philosophy or philosophers,
why it is that upon the same latitudes of the Atlantic and Pacific
coasts, the thermometer ranges many degrees higher on the
latter than on the former sea-board. By survey, it is estima
ted that the Pacific is higher than the Atlantic, and consistent
with both theory and well-known experience otherwise, the
greater elevation is colder than the lesser. Is it because the
snow-capped mountains of the greater altitude are upon the
Atlantic coast, extending to the atmosphere there a cooling
efficacy, which cannot reach to the opposite side of the conti-
pept ? Possibly the fixed laws of the atmospheric currents,

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 247
from the ice regiops of the Poles, may sweep stropger from
north to south, and vice versa, upon the Atlantic shores. As
it is not within my humble sphere to divine the results of phi
losophical causes, I shall leave my inquiry, if worthy of at
tention, to be responded to by those who are practical on such
subjects. Business demapded that I should pot long repose from tra
vel, and accordingly on the 29th instant, I departed from
Caneles for Guanosebi. My route lay across the Madre Monte,
but in a differept direction to the one I had previously travel
led, being to the north-east. I was unaccompanied by an in
terpreter ; consequently my conversation with the Mexican
gentleman who accompanied me was expressed in a very la
conic, and often in an unintelligible manner; so much so that
I became disgusted with its disagreeableness, and abandoned,
for six days, speaking, unless when necessity obliged me. After
sleeping six nights in the open air, I arrived, on the seventh
day, at the place of my destination, a town containing be
tween two and three thousand inhabitants.
In whatever conditiop I was placed, I foupd in the face of
nature some loveliness to admire, or some curious phenomenon
upon which to speculate. While extended on my back on the
ground, with my face towards the sky, when camping out,
the remarkable moon-shine of Mexico never failed to absorb
my attention. It differs from the light of the sun, only in that
the latter has only a red glare of burning brilliancy, while the
soft and silvery light of the moon is brilliant enough to enable
the beholder to see almost as distinctly as by the illuminating
rays of the king of the day.
It cannot be doubted that, in a tropical and arid region,
the moon does light the earth more brilliantly than is the case
in a less elevated and more northern latitude. Would that I
were able to describe a Mexican moon-shine ! Without a
cloud to spot the sky, the stars twinkle more brightly in her
absence. They are more numerous, and display themselves in
more clusters than are seen througli our humid atmospheres.
The vision takes hold of objects far removed, and with a dis
crimination nearly equivalent to that afforded by the light of
day — the air is clear, as when in the morning the moment pre
ceding the rising of the sun in the full blaze of light. The
atmosphere is always mild and balmy at night, and, in the
warmer valleys, the gentle zephyrs floating over the plains are
congenial, affording an enjoyment which in truth renders it a
luxury to repose under the canopy and protection of heaven. ,
At Guanosebi I was so fortunate as to meet with Mr. Bu
chan, whp was on a visit to that place, to try experiments on

248 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
the silver ore there. All Of the rocks upon and under the sur
face of the earth, partake more or less of silver. Mr. Buchan
informed me that he should open a mine at that place, which
he thought would be profitable. To him, and also to his Mex
ican lawyer, who seemed to be very much of a gentleman, I
was under obligations for their liberal aid in endeavouring to
accomplish an unsuccessful litigation with a citizen of that
town. After the general and the priest, the lawyer is the most for
midable personage in Mexico. Mr. Buchan related that, in
consequence of the many difficulties which originate in traps-
actipg busiuess with the Mexicans, he found it to be a matter
of both importance and profit to employ, continually, on be
half of the company, a lawyer ; by doing which he only foupd
it pecessary, ip the commepcement of difficulties with obstre
perous customers, to call into his presepce his lawyer, and all
obstacles were removed.
On the second day after I had commenced my return to
Caneles from Guanosebi, we suddenly came in view of an ex
tensive field, and my Mexican friend, and all of the servants,
in one voice, exclaimed — " Santa Anna's hacienda campus I"
— They seemed to be more rejoiced than if the property had
belonged to themselves. To me it was another convincing
proof of the undying attachment of the Mexican people for
their tyrant.
The brilliancy of his bloody exploits, and his chicanery and
art, by which he has subdued them to his will, has filled the
inhabitants with awe and reverence, which ever will result in
that renowned chieftain being their master. If at any time a
sudden revolution should displace him, it must be but tempo
rary; for no sooner can he pitch his squadrons in the field,
than the dread of his anger and terrible revenge will subdue
his enemies, and quiet his countrymen, (as has always been
the result of his politic conduct,) who will fall down at his
feet and cry— Hail, Dictator !
The officers of the government are all of his own creating
— his generals are the governors of cities and departments,
and of his own appointing. — And although they may, at the
outset, have joined the standard of the revolutionary party,
yet, no sooner do they behold Santa Anna's banner floating in
the breeze than they will forsake their sacred obligations,
vowed to constitutional liberty, and fly to the usurping mas
ter they were pledged to conquer. Away with the mockery
of presidential and dictatorial chiefs I — Call not a military des
potism a republic 1— The lovers of freedom scom the defor
mity. — Make Santa Anna king — emperor ! and no matter how

TRAVELS 'tit UMM. M
hafd fie may goad a people, too base to be Sensible HI their
own wrongs, and too treacherous to deferid their fiubilc insti
tutions. t _ .
While upon my journey t met With the courier, vMio inform
ed my companion that rhahy murders had re'cehtly beeil
committed by the ladrones, on the public high-ways; and also
that Santa Anna was preparing for a war with tfie United
States and England at the same time'.. The courier Seethed to
have no apprehensions of defeat on his master's account; but
appeared to be Well assured that Mexico would tHuhiph iii
the contest. ...
The mails of Mexico are most generally carried by Indians
on foot, who transport them, from post to post, more speedily
than it could be by horses. An indiab, freighted only vyith
his small wallet of corn-meal, and his little package of letters
will take his straight course over mountain, hill and dale,
that cannot be travelled by animals, and by that means short
en the distance, overcoming space in a manner wonderful to
be related. The robbers never molest thfem, for money is he- •
ver carried iri the mails, or the Ipdiaps possessed of valuables.

CHAPTER XIX.
Return to Caneles. Apache Indians. Two small boys of tender
years. Commence my return journey. Manage two men better
than three or six. Pioneer round my camp. The Madre Monte
pass. Ladrones on the woy. How to know Ladrones; Received
at Durango. Mr. Charles E. Bowes. Art individual who has
been long from home. Two new s-ervants. Departure from Du
rango. My Servants not, good packers'. Arrived at the hacienda
campus de la Casa Blanca. Irrigating dam of water. Cornfield.
Pastoral lands. Speculation in old horses. , Purchased two pack
mules. A mule ruus away, A nearer and better route. Siorm
and hospitality of a Mexican. Wet condition of my cargo.
Descending to a lower region. Distress and hazard. Slept in a
separate rancho. A signal given. Defeat of contemplated attack.
Arrived at the mineral town of Matehanla. Discharged my
servants. Wealthy Mexican. An American. Summons before
the Alcalde. The law-suit determined. Second summons before
the Alcalde. Presentation of my cohimission. Newspaper fron
the U. S. Texians. President Tyler. An old Spaniard. His
daughter. Fruits and vegetables.
I returned to Caneles ,ou the 25th of May, not without
haviug incurred the hazard of battle with the Apache IndianB,
as it was said by the people living east of the Madre Monte,
L 5

250 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
that that tribe had supplanted the Camanches, and were in
festing the mountains.
Having taken under my charge my two nephews — small
boys of tender years — and having resolved on returning to the
United States ; at one time I contemplated embarking from
the port of Mazetlan to my far distant home, but the idea of
twice crossipg the equator, apd livipg five or six months on
the ocean, made me abandon that project.
I therefore determined that, without delay, as the rainy
season was rapidly approaching, I wonld hazard my destiny
in a journey across the continent to the port of Tampico on
the Gulf of Mexico, as that journey seemed to be the least
fraught with evils.
In accordance with my last resolve, having closed my bu
siness at Caneles, I, on the 30th of May, commenced my return
journey to Tampico, distant from Caneles about seventeen
hundred miles. In consequence of my former difficulties with
interpreters, I was unwilling to employ one. Having learned
also, by experience, and the many fatal casualties which had
happened to others, the danger of having a large body of arm
ed servants, I resolved to employ but two, this number being
less by one than 1 should have had ; however, it was my
opinion that, in case of conspiracy, I could manage two better
than three.
One of my servants was a good-looking man, of about fifty
years of age, and had been recommended to me as being trust
worthy ; the other was a younger man, of his selection, being
his compadre, or god-brother.
While travelling in the mountains, where I was obliged to
sleep under the canopy of the heavens for my house-top, and
the Madre Monte for my bed of down, I informed my two
men that, when the hour of repose had arrived, they must not
rise from their serapis unless called to do so by me ; and told
them if my orders were violated they must take the conse
quences. I had obtained abundance of China tea, and, after
my nephews had been put into their carteras, and the servants
had reclined upon the earth, I took good care to keep my large
tea-pot at the fire, and at intervals, during the whole night, I
freely indulged in drinking the beverage. It was my deter
mined policy never to let my men know when I slept ; and
what more astonished me than any thing else was that, in the
extremity of the excited condition in which each night wonld
find me, I had perfect control of my waking and sleeping mo
ments. My belt of arms could not have weighed less than
eight or ten pounds, yet I never unbuckled it from my body ;
apd, after the fatigues of the day, I would rise fropi piy

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 251-
couch, repeatedly during the night, to see that all was well,
and pioneer round my camp ; on every such occasion I would,
solitary apd alone, take a hearty draught of my strong green
tea. While seated near the burning faggots, and the low night-
breeze was sighing through the tall forests of the mountains,
by the cheerful exhilarating excitement which the tea pro
duced, I thought of the friepds with whom I opce revelled
over the wipe-glass ; and I was reminded often of the familiar
ballad: " Oft in the stilly night,
Ere slumber's chains have hound me,
Fond memory brings the light
Of other days around nt/' &c.
The Madre Monte passed, I lodged for the last time at the
village of the Boca de la Santa Cataline, on the 17th of Juue.
Op the 24th I arrived in safety at the city of Durango ;
though not without havipg twice encountered ladrones on the
way. The first time, my company being, fortunately, in
creased by being joined to that of other travellers, prevented
the robbers from making an attack: the second, in which I at
one time almost gave our chance up, I was so well seconded
by my old servant, who showed such strong symptoms of
fight when the ladrones made their first demonstration of at
tack, that the day was our own. Hostilities commenced by
the ladrones brandishing their weapons, and shouting and
twirling their lassoes in the air ; while they rode aroupd us in
a circuitous direction.
When the traveller thus beholds his assailants, he must,
without hesitation, show his foe by his preparations and bold
stand, that he will never surrender, and dare them to battle ;
they will then suppose that the booty to be gained may not be
worth the hazard. They will sheer off and soon be lost en
tirely to sight. However, when the traveller, on such an oc
casion, has exhibited his willingness for action, and the enemy
does not retreat, but continues to keep up the charge, he must
not lose the most suitable moment to fire upon the foremost of
the party. The best aim is at the horn of the saddle, for a
side or front shot.
I was received at Durango by my acquaintances with the
same hospitality and attention which had characterized my
first visit. It was my good fortune to meet, on this occasion,
a fellow-countryman, Mr. Charles E. Bowes, an artist from
St. Louis. Mo. His talents were doing him much credit in
Mexico, and he had the promisipg hopes of a rich reward for
his adventurous euterprise.

252 ., TRAVELS iN MEXICO.
Through Mr. Bowes I obtained some intelligence from the
United States, it being the first pews I had received for
several months. He ipformed me that when he left home,
it was his intention to spend the winter in New Orleans,
and showed me letters of introduction he had received and
taken to that pity. One of them was from F. W. Risque,
Esq., a lawyer of St. LoUis. The well-known hand-writing
of that gentleman, seen unexpectedly in a foreign country,
touched the feelings of my heart, for he had been my early
playmate, and we had grown to manhood together, being
the nearest neighbours in old Virginia.
An individual who has been long from home, apd is fa
tigued with travel, is the. first person to seek pleasure, as
well as to. recognise any thing locally familiar or national.
On my arrival at Durango, I again patronised tfie De la
Santa Paula Meson. No sooner did I dismount, than my
host informed me that there were tWo other Americans with
him. They proved to be Mr. W. H. Folly, the India-rubber
man, and Mr. J. R. Hamblin, the Achilles, who fired a can
non from his shoulder, and pulled against two or more
horses. On the 26th instant, Sunday, their exhibition was to
come off at the Plaza de los Torros, which I attended. It
was truly surprising to witness the unbounded admiration
expressed by the spectators. But while the American per
formers attracted the attention of the Mexicans, my own
was by the performances of the native clown, who had
robed himself like a saint, bound his head with a wreath,
and painted his face white. If the limit of decency would
permit, my readers would be more astonished at a synopsis
of his address to an audience of five thousand persons, than
the citizens were at the show.
The performances concluded, I accepted an invitation to
.a ride in the Alemade; but after the coach had passed a
fow times round the place, it came in contact with another
vehicle, the result of which was to break down both, in ac
cordance, I thought, with my usual fate in carriage riding ;
there, before thousands of people, the pleasure excursion
terminated. At night, in company with my friend Mr.
Bowes, I visited the theatre, and there enjoyed the sight of
the numerous and splendid assembly of ladies, more than I
did the dull, prosy performances. The prompter was sta
tioned immediately in front of the stage, and read every syl-
. lable of the play, while the actors mouthed the words after
him. At the city of Durango I obtained two now servants, as
my Caneles men would not further leave their homes. My

travels In mexico. 253
friend, Mr. Stalknit, drew Up the articles of agreement be
tween us— one of which was, that I should, ,orl their te-
torn journey, give fherri it horse each. ; Every, preparation
being made; iipori the 28th instant I departed frdrrt DurahgO.
I chose a direction, to the left of that Which I had formerly
travelled; yet my course was due soiith; I had been par
ticular in obtaining from an individual a way-bill of my route,
with the Uames of places I cOuld stop at, each a day's journey
apart. I had not travelled more than' two days before I disco
vered that my servants were not, or pretended hot to be,
good packers, for my mules seemed to be suffering much
from their cargoes. My suspicions were at once aroused;
for I well knew that Mexican servants, who were in the
habit of travelling, understood how. to load ah animal. My
men had besides been recommended to me as being the best
of arrieros. However, ih eight days time, I arrived at the
Hacienda Campus Casa Blanca, the estate of the White
House. The joUrney was fatiguing, and hiy horses ahd
rnules were much jaded by the trip. So 1 determined to
remain a few days at that place.
At Casa Blanca the buildings wpre good, ahd my quarters
excellent. The estate was. under the best improved condition
of any that I had an opportunity of examining in. Mexico. In
the first instance, there was an irrigating dam of water, , One
league and a half in extent. It was formed by a wall of
earth and stone, built from hill to hill, and was filled by
the fains. The water had, up to the time of my visit, been
turned from 'it in a stream of eighteen inches in diameter,
for a period of six Weeks, to water the various parts of a
corn field — two leagues and a half square.
The water was conducted over the land by canals, and
turned upon the furrows by flood-gates at intervals, the
canals running along the higher elevation of the farm. —
There was corn Sealed up in many cone-like houses of from
one to three years of age. There were other extensive lands
used for pasturing purposes, upon which hundreds of animals
grazed. There was at the principal granary a stack of what
the Mexicans call fodder, at least fifty feet high, and three
hundred in length. Oca (fodder) hi Mexico, is the stalk with
the blade not cured separately, but cut all together.
Indeed, I have, in the hot damp valleys, seen corn that
had been thickly sown for the purpose of making fodder.—
The estate belonged to . one of the most enterprising and
speculative citizens of Mexico. I was informed that he once
boilght two thousand old horses, at two dollars each, and that

254 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
whep they were boiled into soap, they averaged him fifteen
dollars each.
At Casa Blanca, in consequence of the injuries my animal
had sustained, I purchased two excellent pack mules. I did
not at that place exchange my Durango servants, as I had
an opportunity of doing, fearing that if I did, I might only
be turning loose two knaves to follow me, at the same time
I would only have two others of a like character in my em
ployment. Thus conditioned, I again commenced my journey,
intending not to rest until I should reach Matehula, distant
six days' journey from Casa Blanca.
Upon my set out from the rancho of the white house, I ex
perienced a vexation, which ultimately resulted fatally to one
of my mules. My servants had chosen to pack the animal
which I had recently purchased, with a cargo, and when my
caravan was put in motion, the wild animal, being turned
loose, with the usual shrill whistle and whoop, instead of
keeping company with the rest, bounded over the plain with
the speed of a greyhouud ; and every moment I expected my
trunks would be burst open, and my money and goods scat
tered over the ground. However the beast was with some
difficulty lassoed, apd all was righted, but pot before its
loins had been so injured by the shifting of the load, that
the poor beast fell powerless to the earth. It was as fipe
ap apimal of the khid as I ever saw, apd had cost me, on
the day previous, twenty-five dollars. Its cargo was attached
to another mule, and we proceeded on our journey.
About mid-day my oldest nephew, whom I had instructed
to be attentive to the couversation of my servants, informed
me that my men said, they would not travel the way I had
directed. Upon my charging them with the fact, they in
sisted that they knew a nearer and better route, which they
said they would prefer, for my benefit. I peremptorily said
that at the peril of their lives, they were to deviate from
the carmino real, the principal road, and that I would hold
them responsible to deliver me at the different houses I would
daily direct them to.
That day's journey, to my great joy, put me on the east side
of the Cordilleras, where perhaps lie buried more of the pre
cious metals than the world will ever have industry sufficient
to excavate ; for it seemed as if a continued vein of silver
ran through their whole extent. I was rejoiced to have
those high, romantic, and bright silvery mountains to my
rear ; for while locked up between them they shut off from
my view the oft-repeated lingering looks that I would cast
towards the Bkies that hovered between myself and my owu

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 255
distant home. The waters of the Atlantic would be a
blessing to my sight, while the shores of the United States
promised to be my Elysium upon earth.
The night of my first day's travel was most disagreeably
spent at a wretched rancho in a deep glen. I had directed
my servants to put up my carteras under a beautiful musquiti
tree that stood before the door of a small filthy house, but by
the time they commenced their work, a cloud suddenly sprung
up, and the kind Mexicans invited me to lodge within doors.
At the time I felt very grateful, but no sooner did the rain be
gin to pour down, than it ran through the flat roof and flooded
in at the walls: — while I sat all night with my youngest boy
in my arms, and the other one was laid up on a shelf. I only
thanked God that the frail tenement of dirt did not tumble to
the earth. My principal care was to preserve my arms and
ammunition from being damaged. I therefore had my guns and
pistols wrapped up in the buffalo robes to keep them dry ; at
the same time, however, I did not part with those around my
body, as I always regarded them as my best friends. The
buckle of my belt was never disturbed, except to draw it
tighter, when I was pinched with hunger, or overpowered
with fatigue ; indeed, from the commencement to the end of
my journey, it was lengthened about Bix inches, leaving me
but the shadow of my original self.
The next day dawned clear and cloudless. Notwithstanding
the wet condition of my cargo, my kitchen suffering the great
est injury, I had to throw away my stock of crackers and
dried beef, as in that climate such articles will not keep after
a wetting. Our journey lay across the dominions of the Conde
de Coral, the most wealthy of all the citizens of Mexico, as I
was informed. Ever since I had left the Cordilleras on my
rear, my direction was a little south of due east. As I pro
gressed, it was observable that I was rapidly descending
from an elevated to a lower region ; for the towering peaks
of the back-bone mountains were lost to my view, while the
distant points of others would anon show their heads, in a
country far below the elevation that I was on. I remarked
that the end of each day's journey would place me upon a
declivity, beneath that of the former one. In one instance,
my entire day's travel was in the evening closed by abruptly
descending a shorter height, which put me upon a plain as
much below the former one, as was the elevation of the hills
to my rear. You are right, Mr. Kendall, if I mistake you not,
(your book not being at present in my possession), in calling
those tables "steps," for, while traversing them, I felt as if,
had I only had on the boots of the famous giant-killing Jack,

256- TRAVELS iN mIxi'c'o.'
I could have stride'd down them as nimbly as ever you your
self descended the marble flight of the St. Charles's portico at
New Orleans. . ,
Tnese plains are chiefly wooded with patlm-trees; apparepily
riot poslessiiig the sterility of the table lapds of the Cordil
leras. I progressed as rapidly as circiipistapces would allow,
pot alone for toe reason that I wished to terminate my gehe-;
ral distress arid hazard, but also the more especially or accouut
of my apprehensions with my servants. Besides having suffi-
ciept copvictiops of the evil intentions of these men, they were
the only Mexicans in my employment who had ever, pre
sumed to be impertinent to nie. Supposing that I was bognd
to take them to Tampico; they did not think I would discharge
them on my arrival at Matehaula, provided they spared my
life for so long a time.
The criminal designs were clearly demonstrated by their
every act, and I felt convinced at the same time that, to part
with them before I reached Matehaula, would only be to iu-
crease pry dangers. I was for ever on the aiert, day and
night, knowing that my safety depended on showing the ruf
fians that I had no confidence in them, and at every moment
held them at defiance. I had been cautioned tO beware of my
servants, by an old Mexican gentleman at Casa Blanca, who
instructed pie never to suffer either of them, on any occasion,
to ride behind me; or, when the lasso was in their hands, not
to be within its influence.
I was particular to make my servants keep in front of me,
my two nephews riding in the centre of the party, while I
rode at the distance of fifteen or twent)' paces in the rear.
Thus I had my whole caravan perpetually before my eyes ;
having the advantage, iii the result of a conflict, not to have
to turn or wheel to meet my foe. Upon the fourth morning
of my journey, having spent tho night previous at a shepherd's
rancho, I discovered after about an hour's ride, that we were
about to pass a narrow detllo, whore tho points of two moun
tains tapered suddenly to the plain. It happened that just in
the level space between the heights, my men dismounted to
tighten the ropes that held the cargo of one of my mules, and
in doing so they so frightened the rest of the animals that they
left the road, and scattered in the thick musquiti growth. I
immediately unfastened my double-barreled gun, and spring
ing both the locks, made a brisk and circuitous ride to head
my animpls and drive them again into the proper track, -which
at length I succeeded in accomplishing. At that moment I
heard a shrill whistle on tlie hill to my left hand ; I instantly
wheeled to a half face to the men, and the same position to-

travels iS Mexico. 2&j
wards, the direction Whence the sound proceeded. My ser-
vapts stood motiopless eyeing me, for they coVrectly supptiSed
that my first shots Would be levelled at them. Discovering
that I held them at bay, I quickly looked arouhd and plainly
perceived the broad rim of a Mexican hat behind a.large palni
tree, at a distance of about thirty yards' upon the hill. I
directly pointed my gun at the tree, and exclaimed, " Lddrone,
yo estoy fronte cqmbate por vida e propriedad /" (" Robber, I
am ready to fight for life and property.") TO which the man
behind the tree responded, "Senor, yo estoy unico a probre pas
tor!" (Sir, I am only a poor shepherd.") I directed my
men to mount and go ahead. We had not advanced far be-;
fore one of my boys cried out, Mlra teg," ("look uncle."J I
spurred my horse forward, when up bounced another shepherd,
with a pistol in his hand. The man seemed to be much
alarmed, and was soon lost in the musquiti bushes. I shall
never have a doubt that my servants had formed a conspiracy
with the shepherds to rob me; but the scoundrels, discovering
that their designs did not operate as they intended, were de
terred from making the attack when the signal was given,
and thus I escaped !
Upon the 14th day of June, I arrived at the mineral town
of Matehaula, and put up at the meson de los Angelos, the
meson of the angels. Here I met with a Mexican whom I
had seen at Durango, and also an American. I explained to
them the disagreeable situation I was iu, apd stated that it
was my iptention to discharge my servants, sell my, aniriiais,
and hire an arriero, who could give good bond ahd security for
my safe delivery at Tampico. The, Mexican seehied to be a
perfect gentleman, and had the repptation of being wealthy,
and therefore honest, as they say in Mexico, because above the
necessity of stealing., However, he appeared to take a lively
interest in my welfare, and promised to make a contract for
me with an arriero, whom, he said, he knew well, and for
Whom he would also enter as security on a bond before the
Alcalde. Such a ,kind offer, and so unexpected, was thank
fully accepted, and the geptlemap made good all of his eRgage-
meflts. My American friend likewise put himself to the trouble
of selling my cargo mules, and further assisting me. ,
I theu summoned my servants to a settlement, and taking
their receipts for the amount of money due to, them, let them
select two of my hordes for their return to Durango. I was
certainly obligated to furnish them wito a horSe each, but not
to give them their choice of my apimals, ahd I would hot con
sent they should have their own selection. ItoWevet; they
sunimoried rile to appear before the Alcade,' to show clluie why

258 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
they should pot have my best horses. Although I felt satisfied
as to the result of a law-suit with Mexicaos, it beipg always
decided against foreigners ; yet I determined, for the novelty
and experimept, to coptest their claims. My friepd, the
American, accompanied me to the Alcalde, aod acted as my
speaker op the occasiop , being very fluent in the Spanish
language. The case beipg opeued, the Alcalde demanded to kpow why
I refpsed aRipials to my servaRts ? My friepd replied that I
had pot depied to my mep their rights, but that I objected
that they should take from me my two best horses ; that he
himself could testify to my having given them the choice of
three animals, nearly as good as my best ones, and amply able
to carry them all over the republic, and more my contract did
not require of me. He then exhibited the written agreement,
with the signature of the two servants affixed thereto, which
only required that I should furnish two horses, for their re
turn to Durango, and not my best animals. He also stated
the perils and injuries I had received at their (the servants)
hands. The Alcalde respoflded that the poor fellows should
have good horses to return home, and he expected, he said,
that the animals left in my possession after the men had taken
their choice would be good enough to answer my purposes 1
Thus the law-suit terminated. Not disappointed with the
decision of the case, I returned to my quarters, my friend ac
companying me, much vexed at himself for his not being a bet
ter lawyer.
We had been seated but a few momepts ip the room, whep
a Mexicap appeared at my door. He was dressed wiih oply
a pair of scanty papts and a serapi, which was thrown over
his left shoulder. He held a sword in his right hand, and said
that the Alcalde had ordered him to summon us to appear in
stantly before him, to show by what authority we were tra
velling in the Republic of Mexico.
Such a mandate took me by surprise, for so singular a de
mand had never before been made of me, and I determined to
meet the crisis in the best way I was capable of doing. While
my friend had retired to get his passport, I took occasion to
doff my old travelling dress, and put on my consulate uniform,
and, both being ready, we bade our naked swordsman to lead
on. As we passed along the streets the people stared, and
began to collect in groups, while HiaRy ladies fairly rap out of
their houses to look at us.
Arrived at the Alcalde's room I walked boldly in, making
my sword, which I used like a cane, jingle npop the floor as I
stepped up to the table, behind which the old black-eyed and

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 259
grey-headed judge of law and equity was seated. The old
fellow was very obsequious, and seemed to count every but
ton on my coat, while the peus dropped from the fingers of
the clerks. The consternation was laughably evident. After
looking, for a moment, the officer of justice in the face, I
threw him my commission, reserving behind my cwequator, to
see if he knew any thing of his business. He unfolded the
parchment awkwardly, turning it over and over, as if by so
doing he could make Spanish out of it" and theR haRded it to
his chief-clerk, who, perceiving tliere was a difficulty in it,
stepped to a window to obtain a better light on the subject.
He then turned it about in every direction, and endeavoured
in vain to decipher the English of the commission, now hold
ing it bottom upwards, as often as in any other position. His
eyes at length caught the name of " Bocanegra, Minister of
Foreign Relations," and, with the same excitement as if he
had discovered a gold mine, he shouted out, " Esta bueno." —
(it is very good) — and then handed me my document, as he
did also my friend's passport, with toe accompanying — Esta
bueno. My friend informed the dignified Alcalde, that it was a very
serious thing to insult an American consul ; and, but that I
was a good-natured man, I would forthwith communicate to
Santa Anna the decision he had made in the case of the horse,
as well as the impertinent demand he had made of me, as to
what right I had to travel in Mexico. We theR left the apart-
ment without my being asked for my exequator. Tbe con
temptible summons of the Alcalde I will ever remember, as
the most amusing incident in my life.
At Matehaula I, for the first time since my departure from
the city of Mexico, had the happiness of seeing a newspaper
from the United States. My friend presented me with a New
York Courier and Inquirer, which contained General Jackson's
able letter on the subject of the annexation of Texas. At that
time I also learned, for the first time, that Mexico was about
to renew the war with Texas, by marching thirty thousand of
her troops into that country. I could but have many feelings
of sorrow for ill-fated Texas, but at the same time I did not
believe that the government of the United States would be so
deficient of its honour, its interest and its duty, as to forsake
Texas, and suffer her citizens to be slaughtered by a barbarous
foe. I was the more encouraged in this opinion, in reading the
soul-stirring response of the French minister to the House of
Deputies of Mexico, touching the cruel and revolting inten
tions of that cpuntry to carry on the war. It convinced me

260 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
that the civilized World would not quietly behold the brave
Texians butchered, regardless of the laWs of nations, and the
eaCred principles of humanity.
The name of the President of the United States would have
descended in infamy to posterity, if he had not interposed his
warning voice to Mexico. The manly decision of character of
. President Tyler, upon the Texas question, has covered hipi
with glory enough for any one man ; and the millions of people
who will inhabit the fertile plains of Texas will, through all
time, hail his memory as a bold defender of all that is held
dear and sacred to civilized nations.
There lived at Matehuala an old Spaniard, who took up the
impression that I was a doctor of medicine. He invited me
to his house, and conducted me to his family chamber, where
I was introduced to his wife and several other ladies. From
theflce he carried me into a large saloon that was splendidly
furnished with furniture from the United States. From the
ceiling of the high room was suspended a glass ship completely
rigged, which answered the double purpose of an ornament
and a chandelier.
From that room he took me from one apartment to another,
until we at length entered a handsomely furnished room,
having a bed, on which was a lady. Taking me by the hand
he conducted me to the bed-side and said, " There, what do
you think of her?" The poor woman seemed to be rapidly
breathipg her life away, for the rattling in her lungs could be
heard at several paces from her. She pressed my hand, and
wished to know her malady ; the father insisted also, and I
replied it was consumption. He instantly seized my other
hand, and grasping it, said, "You are right, for my daughter
has, for the last seven years, been lingering under that disease
— and if you can give her a healing remedy your reward shall
be whatever you may ask." I made my several excuses, aud
fiually relieved Piyself by tacitly promising a mixture.
The old Spaniard seemed to take much interest iu mo, visit
ing me once on that day. He said that the only apprehension
he had of Riy safe arrival Ih Tampico was that, as the Texian
war was to be renewed, the war-cry of the populace and the
army there would be " Muerte en todo AmericanasV (Death
to all Americans.)
I had ever since the commencement of my journey from
Casa Blanca, been descending to a hot region, and ut Ma-
tehaUla I found fruits and vegetables in abundance. The
sweet orange and the lemon, the pine-apple and the banaria,
the plantains, plums, pears, peaches and water-melons also
Were abundant. I obtained also some delightful lettuce;

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 261
cucumbers and tomatoes, Which I found most congenial to my
appetite ; for when travelling I could never buy' vegetables,
excepting in the towns. But I must be permitted to say that,
at Matehaula, I, much to my regret, consumed the last remain
der of hapi which I had purchased of a Frenchman at the city
of Durango, at the dear rate of five dollars and sixty-two and
a half cents. It weighed ten pounds tefl ouuces.
But ap ipdividual, who had beep accustomed all his life to
eat good bacon, finds that, after a long privation, he is willing
to pay any price for that old familiar diet. The Mexicans are
not fond of indulging in the meat of hogs, for they say that
devils reside in them. I'or myself, I think this a great mis
take, for the evil spirits must have come out of the swine
creation, and taken up their abode in the hearts of the Mexi
cans themselves — for While the flesh of the one is healthy and
good, the deeds of the others are those of the devil. If a pro
blem in Euclid can be more satisfactorily demonstrated than
the above, then I shall ever have a doubt remaining on my
mind, respecting the capacity of the human intellect to arrive
at just conclusions, by a systematic course of reasoning.

CHAPTER XX.
Arrieros. Departure from Matehaula. Old Spaniard and my
American friend. Picture of the crucifixion. Beyond the con
fines of the town. Rancho in the defiles of two mountains.
Opening of the earth.' My servants diligent and faithful men.
Rolling and wooded country. ' One of my men a merry little fel
low. Expertness with the lasso. Aherera a Spanish Jesuit.
Arrived at tho town 'of Tola. Fertile and hilly country.' A
mountain cross. ' A hilly and well-watered valley. ' Splendid
scenery. A grotto, tho residence of a saint. Servants dismount.
A saint of Socono. The rainy season. Occasional rains! Arrived
at Tampico a Santa Anna. Customhouse officer. Meson kept
by Monsieur Constant Mareuet. Meeting with Mr. John Fulton.
Situation of Tampico. Houses and plazas. Santa Anna's vic
tory. Captain F. Chase, United States Consul. Texas, question
of the next session. Annexation of Upper California. Columbia
river. Railroad to New Orleans. Napoleon. An examination
of the map. Public lands. Monopoly of commerce. Different
connexions. Annexation of Mexico. Southern boundary of the
United States. No limit to the north. Hudson and Mississippi
rail-road. Home protection. Free trade. Russian possessions.
On the morning of tne 18th instant, the arrieros, three in num
ber, whom the polite Mexican had employed to transport me

S62 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
to Tampico, arrived, and were in due attendance to receive
my freight.
The old Spaniard and my American friend were also present
to witness my departure, and take leave of me. Having
settled my mesop bill, apd epibraced my friepds, as I was
riding out of the great court of the house the old keeper ran
pp to me, as is oftep the custom in that country, and presented
to me the picture of Christ beariRg the cross. I well under-
Btood the old map's object ; it was his last opportupity of ap-
pealipg to me for mopey. It is always expected that he who
presepts to ap individual the priut of a saipt, or apy of the
holy family, should receive more or less change for a donation.
The wicked thought, at the moment, occurred to me, to pre
tend not to understand him ; and I asked, if the picture was
intended for Santa Anna ? He, with some surprise, said that
it was not. I then inquired, if it was Bocanegra or Tornel ?
With much anger he denied that it was either, and in turn
asked me if I was a Jew? He said that the picture was
Christo muestro Salvador, (Christ our master and Saviour.)
My American friend, at that, gave me to understand, that I
was in a difficulty. I took the picture, looked at it, made the
sign of the cross and threw the man a clacka, which seemed to
please him, and I departed.
The priests in Mexico are not the only people who make a
commerce of their religion. It is the privilege of any indi
vidual to hawk about saints, for money-making purposes.
My old friend on foot followed me beyopd the confines of the
town, during which time he shook my hand three several
times. Having, in the most emphatic manner, assured me
that my journey would be a safe one, he ascended a mound of
earth which gave him an extensive view of the plain, and as
often as I looked behind me, I could behold him in the same
position, his large gold-headed caiie glistening in the sun, as
he waved his hapd, the peculiar Spanish signal of adieu. Our
course, after we lost sight of Matehaula, was due east.
The night of the 18th, I spent at a rancho, situated in a defhe
of two mountains, at which place I witnessed a singular phe
nomenon. Before reaching the house, I discovered that the
narrow plain had an opening extending from mountain to
mountain, from six to eighteen inches in breadth. It seemed
as if the weight of the mountains had been too much for the
earth to support, and thus cracked it. The Mexicans who
lived there could not give me any information as to how, or
when, it happened, which must have been during the convul
sions of un earthquake. On a former occasion I witnessed,
about ten miles north of the city of Durango, a place where a

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 263
large portion of a plain had sunk to a general depth of twenty
feet from its original elevation. The level surface of the plain
seemed to have sustained no injury, while all along both sides
of the mountains were plainly perceptible where the plain had
abruptly broken off, and sunk to a deeper foundation. In lime
stone countries, as that is, such things were not before un
known — from the falling in of the earth, to the great cavities
beneath. My servants proved to be diligent and faithful men, attend
ing to all of my interests with strict punctuality. To employ
an arriero whose personal responsibility is such as to enable
him to give security for the safe deliverance of his charge, is
the only mode by which freight or travellers can be transported.
The arriero then has every thing at stake, and it may be ex
pected that he will use every effort, even at the hazard of his
life, to piake good his engagemeflt — Rot because he, ip his pe
culiar occupation, is more honest thau others of his couutrymen,
but the reason that his obligations would make him the loser
by his neglect or want of bravery. Arrieros have been known
to perform their obligatory duties in good faith, when at the
same time they have plundered others, and murdered defence
less travellers.
For seven days after my departure from Matehaula, my di-
rectioR was over a country for the most part rolling, and bet
ter wooded than any other of the table lands I had seen in
Mexico. Every thing seemed to pass off bueno, as the clerk
had it. I noticed that my men appeared to know every per
son they met, and that I was greeted by all in a manner to
which I had not formerly been used in the country. One of
my men was a merry little fellow, who was perpetually
whistling arid singing. He was very expert with the lasso,
never suffering a horse, mule, or steer to escape him. He
would heave at all animals that came in his way, and some of
his repcoptres were very diverting and exciting.
The precision with which the lasso can be thrown by an
experienced hand is truly astonishing, for it matters not how
swift may be the speed of the aRimal, he cap be takep by aHy
limb apd subdued. My man could catch at full speed a horse
around the neck, and at the same time, by a slight twirl of
the rope, form a perfect halter around the head and nose of the
beast. On one occasion, not having live stock upon which to prac
tice, he discovered a dead mule lying on the plain, and cast his
lasso so that it passed under the head of the prostrate carcase,
galloping off and dragging it after him. Nothing, he said,
could lay so close to the ground but that he could take hold of

264 tHAVEfS IN MEXICO,
it in the same mapper. As he dragged off his defunct prey,
the rattlipg of t}ie' boHes withifl the eptire skip of the dead
mule, caused pie to remember the accouut of Aherera, a Spa-
pish Jesuit, who civilized the Indians of Chihuahua. He was
interred at Santa Cruz, where he had died, iu a vault of oue
pf the ' churches. NotwithstaRdihg he has been buried two
hundred years, yet lie is u'ndecayed, and once every year his
body is taken out of the tomb, dressed in his priestly gown,
and set up in the midst of the congregation. Mass is then
said for the repose of his soul. The atmosphere in Mexico,
bUt more especially in the more arid portions of toe -country,
is of such a dryipg pature that auimal matter shripks apd dries
away, rather than consumes by putrid decomposition.
On the 25th instant, I arrived at the town of Tola, a place
containing about two thousand inhabitants, and situated on an
Uneven and confined narrow slip of land, between two hills.
At T°la I. drank some excellent water. I also bought some
good wine, and laid ip a plepfiful store of provisions, to last
me until P should arrive at Tampico.
On the morning of the 26th, I again commenced my journey.
After travelling two leagues over a fertile and highly cultiva
ted country, I discovered that a mountain of considerable
magnitude lay before me, over which the road wound. My
journey was most disagreeable, for the recent rains had made
the black mould of the earth very miry, andbetweeu mud and
stone alternately, our animals progressed very slowly, and
with much difficulty. Yet my journey was not without its
interest, for the mountain was covered with the most magni-
ficent forest of live oak that I ever beheld.
After fording a small river at the foot of the mountain, we
travelled along an uneven and 'well- watered valley for about
one hou'rj wheR we again couimepced ascefldiug a higher
mountain. So precipitate was the height, that one-half of the
day was consumed in gaining its summit by the zig-zag and
narrow path. I was well repaid for the toil, for my eyes never
before feasted so ravishingly as upon that occasion, when I
cast them upon the level tierra caliente below me.
The rains that had fallen had given to the abundant vegeta
tion a most perfect green aspect ; while the farm-houses, with
their sharp thatched roofs, had a picturesque and romantic ap
pearance. The pleasure I enjoyed at beholding this scene was
short-lived, as the most desirable blessings usually are ; for I
had to proceed in my downward direction, only occasionally
obtaining from some prominent projection a bold view of the
enchanting landscape beneath, as it were to cheer my hopes of
reaching some Elysium.

tRAVELB IN MEXic6. 28$
Having descended about half Way dowp the1 steep, my men
all suddenly dismounted, when I perceived other travellers oft
foot. I was not long in discovering the object of the halt, for
the arrieros gravely took off their hats, and having ascended a
rude flight of steps for about twenty feet, they entered a small
cavern in a large rock, and kneeled before an image. After
praying devoutly, each one left a small piece of money on ft
niche in the cave. My little hephews, excited with aWe, Were1
desirous of following their example, and I gave thetn money
to pay for their orisons, believing it would do them no harm*
and thinking that the necessity of prayer instilled into theif
young minds might, in after life, be of valuable considera-<
tion to them.
Upon inquiry, I ascertained that the image worshipped in
the grotto was the protecting saint of travellers against la
drones. Many were the " hair-breath 'scapes " related of
travellers, through the instrumeRtality of that deity Marvel-"
lous, iudeed, are the wonder-working powers of many of the
saints of Mexico ! I was informed of one of these Who resided
in a chapel at the village, of Socono Chihuahua, Who had such
a repugnance to being taken from her home, for supernatural
reasons, that every bold pretender who had attempted it Was
either struck dead, or found her too ponderous to be carried by
htiman strength.
It so happened that a Kehtuckian, who had Strayed by the
way of St. Louis and Santa Fe, to the town of PasSo del Norte,
which is situated contiguous to Socono, hearing a party of
gentlemen dilating upon the tenacity of the saint to her church,
could not perceive how a wooden figure not larger than the
common stature and proportion of a woman, could be eithet
so heavy or self-willed. Agreeable to his habit Of determining
difficulties, he asked — what would the crowd bet that he could
not bring her from the chapel into town ? The company were
awe-struck at the impiety of the man, and no response was
made ; but he insisted on'knowing who would lay a Wager
for his purpose. A Mexican who, like himself, could not re
sist an opportunity of betting, haviflg also a strong faith in
Saint Ysidore, took up the KeutuckiaR for au inconsiderable
amount. Prompt to his sacrilegious purpose, the Kentuckian
mounted his horse, and was not long absent, when he re
turned galloping into Passo del Norte with Saint Ysidore,
dressed in all her divine apparel, seated behind him. He cer
tainly gained the bet , but the gathering mob informed him
that he would have to fly from the town for his life.
As I have before remarked, my return journey Was begun at

£08 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
the commencemept of the wet seasop. The raips are in some
degree periodical doripg the day, as they are ifl the mOHths of
the year. Abopt poop clouds are perceived, aud the traveller
can bivouac ; by the hour of three o'clock, the tempest of rain
and lightuing will have passed over, and the traveller can
agaip proceed. However, hi the month of June, the first of
the three wet months, the rains are irregular ; but, when they
do fall, they pour in torrents upon the luckless wayfarer, cold
and chilling ; for it must be remembered that the traveller,
previous to the fall of wind aud raifl, was scorched with the
burning heat of the suu — aRd the quick trausitiop from hot to
cold is painful. The hardy little mules, during the storm, will
refuse to progress, and, with their faces turned from the pelt
ing blast, will shiver like pointer dogs.
My journey for seven days was uninterrupted, saving by oc
casional rains. It was principally through aflat, hot country,
until we arrived within about three leagues of Tampico, when
the land became undulating, as we approached toe sea-board.
The coast was heavily timbered with iron wood and fustic.
At half-past three o'clock, p.m., on the 31st of June — a period
long to be remembered by me, as terminating my journey in
Mexico, of about four thousand miles, I arrived at Tampico.
I pow feel cop vinced, from all that I have seen of the world,
that it is only necessary for an American to go abroad to
satisfy himself that the United States has the only free and
happy people upon earth, while their country is more blessed
with richness of soil, the abundance of water, and purity of
atmosphere, than that of any other clime upon the habitable
globe — and that all her imperfections are blessings, when
drawn in bold contrast with the institutions and inhabitants
of foreign countries.
I was met at the suburbs of the town by a custom-house of
ficer, who is there stationed to receive arrieros and travellers,
aRd was escorted into the city of Tampico a Santa Anna. Hav
ing passed my baggage through the custom-house, I then hasten
ed to themesonkept by Mons. Constant Marcuer and his lady,
who were German French by birth, ahd at their house I found
excellent accommodations.
At this meson I had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. An
drew Fulton, a fellow-countryman of the state of Ohio, with
whom I had travelled from Cincinnati to New Orleans. Mr.F.
was an enterprising dealer in stock, and was profitably en
gaged iR making shipments of horses from Ohio aRd Kentucky,
to different ports of Mexico. His adventure this time was to
Tampico. It was not only pleasing to meet with a gentle
man with whom I had formerly travelled, but I was also

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. SftT
happy in learning that, like myself, he should take the first op
portunity of returpipg to the United States.
The city of Tampico is delightfully situated upon an elevated
promontory, haying the river on one side and a lake on the
other. It contains about six thousand inhabitants ; but is, like
Vera Cruz, annually decimated by the malaria vomito. In
1843, it is said, two thousand of the population were destroyed
by the yellow fever. Many of the houses are built after the
style of those ip the United States, with sharp shingled roofs ;
I saw also one weather-boarded building.
The inhabitants of Tampico, on my arrival, were much ex
cited by the reception of the intelligence of the execution (and
the frying in oil of the head) of General Sentmanat at Tabasco.
Such a deed, approved of both by the expressed language of
the public prints, as well as by the sentiments of the citizens
of Mexico in general, the rivilized world can easily judge what
the people of that country are. Coeval with the reception of
this news, the arrival of some twenty or thirty free exiled
negroes from Havana, elicited much attention.
There are four large plazas in Tampico. The one on the
river, fronting the custom-house, is the principal of these.
In the centre of it a costly monument is being erected to
commemorate the much-boasted Mexican chief Santa Anna,
having achieved a victory over the Spaniards in the last sad
effort which the king of Spain made to overpower and subdue
his former colony.
As the encampment and the relative condition of the two
belligerent powers were shown and described to me, by an
individual who witnessed the rencounter, I could not see that
the fate of war was decided in favour of the Mexican chief by
any bravery or wisdom he might have exercised ; but more to
the influence of the vomito, in the ranks of his enemies.
Spanhh gold did not fail to have its influence with the patriot
and defender of the banner of liberty — for the Spanish General
secured his retreat by bribery, when he was otherwise entirely
helpless and hopeless.
Captain Franklin Chase, a native of the city of Baltimore,
is the United State Consul at the port of Tampico a Santa
Anna. His able official returns, as published by order of the
government, are sufficient evidence of his ability as an officer.
and a recommendation of himself as an American. I found him
to be a perfect gentleman, and a true son to republicanism
after the school of his own country. Captain C. could not
inform me who were the candidates of the approaching presi
dential canvass in the Uunion ; but he gave me all the parti
culars of the exciting Texas question up to that time. He in-

268 TRAVELS IN MEXICO."
vited hie to dine with him upon the fourth day of July. I
could not help pledging the Consul in a glass of wine, hoping
that the American congress, being in session, would, upon
that great day, annex our sister republic to the United States.
The anuexatiop of Texas has ever appeared to my mipd to
be pecessary to the geperal prosperity of the UpioR, the loca
tion covering a large portion of our defenceless territory; while
at the same time, if the United States designs to cherish her
manufacturing interests, which consist principally of cotton
fabrics, it does seem to me to be all-important that our govern
ment should extend its dominion over the territory of Texas.
It is conceded, I believe, both in Europe and America, that
the cotten ^rown in Texas is of superior quality to that now
cultivated in the southern states, saving the very small and
inadequate amount of the Sea Island cotton of South Carolina;
and therefore, if Texas should not be able to maintain her in-
depeRdepce, aRd be conquered, or annexed to any other foreign
power, particularly any of the manufacturing nations, such as
England or France, the manufacturers of the United States
would be powerless, for they would not be able to turn a
wheel in competition with them, by having to pay a duty upon
the raw material.
Again, the annexation of Texas is of valuable consideration,
believing that the public mind will be much relieved upon
the agitating question of slavery and abolition— -for the iR-
creased demaRd of slave labour in Texas will bo completely
exercise a salutary effect, as to draw a considerable portion of
the coloured population from the northern slave states, that
it must result in the addition of seven new free states to the
glorious confederacy of the Union, — comprehending that vast
section of the country from New Jersey to North Carolina
and Tennessee.
Likewise, as a gentleman of much foresight remarked to
me, that if Texas should be admitted into the Union, with re
strictions upon the subject of slavery, the extent of that
country would be curtailed, for the fact is ostensible, that in
the existence of Texas as an ipdepepdeRt couutry, the subject
of slavery could uot be coRtrolled within her dominions ; but
if connected with the United States, its latitudes will be
circumscribed, and an effectual barrier placed against it.
I am not alone satisfied with the annexation of Texas to the
United States. It must be ostensible to all who will examine
the map, that to complete geographical limits of the south
western portion of the Union, Upper California must also be
annexed — first for the reason that the United States territory
of Oregon covers so small an extent of the Pacific coast, that

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 269
the Ameriaan commerce will ultimately not have sea room —
the only port in which the shippipg of the United States can
anchor upon her owp bottom, beipg at the mouth of the
Columbia river— and that not a good harbour, as the loss of
the Peacock, an American ship of war, cap fully testify.
Again, American shipping and commerce would ever be sub
ject to vexatiops and interfering restrictions, from the fact,
that the Columbia river is claimed by the English to be the
"boundary between the Union and Great Britain, and that
power would therefore exercise a controlling influence aud
dominion over ope half of the river.
The territory of Oregop is pot so valuable an agricultural
region as Upper California ; aud besides, the latter has the
advantage in climate as well as in a horticultural and minera-
logical point of view. In Upper California are three of the
best ports, and the only harbours for shipping, upon the entire
coast of the Pacific ocean, upon the continent of North
America. If any one should doubt the practicability of a
rail-road from New Orleans to the Pacific coast, let them read
Kendall's expedition to Santa Fe, or any of the accounts of
the St. Louis traders to that place, and he could not have a
moment's hesitation in believing all that may be said, regard
ing its easy success, as also the importance of accomplishipg
such a design. If frail and heavily laden wagons can be
drawn between the above named places, without roads, over
the plains and thence to the Pacific, it is self-evident that a
rail-road could be constructed without difficulty, or what an
engineer would call a single obstruction. By an examination
of the map, it will be perceived that a rail-road, running from
San Francisco to New Orleans, would only have to cross the
head waters of some of the streams of Texas, and if any of
the shoots of the Mississippi river should prove to be a formi
dable barrier, it can easily be discovered that the road could
escape all of the waters of Texas, and passing over a dry
country, could be carried direct to Napoleon at the mouth of
the Arkansas river. This road would never have ice or snow
to cover its rails, or obstruct its passage, but could perpetually
be travelled at all seasons.
This should be a national improvement, for no one or more
localities could claim exclusive benefits, or receive an aggran
disement, apart from the whole Union. And therefore, it
does appear to my mind, that it would be advisable that the
sales of the public lands should be made of each state and
territory, and appropriated to this great enterprise, — and
thereby prevent a monopoly of the sales of land, and the tide
emigration of in any exclusive section of country.

270 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
While upon the Pacific coast, I inquired of an American
Whom I met there, and who had travelled all over New Mex
ico, if it was his opinion that a railroad could be built from
San Francisco to the Mississipi river? He replied, that "he
had no doubt or hesitation in saying that he could drive a
Sulky all the way from San Francisco to New Orleans, at the
rate of ten miles an hour, without the fear of upsetting it."
When a road has been constructed from New Orleans to the
Pacific, the Mississippi and the Ohio rivers would then have
the monopoly of the commerce of the Pacific Ocean ! which
would also control that of the world! There would then be
not one of the States of the Union but could have a direct
trade with the East Indies, China, and the Islands of the Pa
cific. The south-west, by the Gulf of Mexico ; North and
South Carolina, by the Charleston and Knoxville railroad;
Virginia, by her railroad from Point Pleasant to Lynchburg
and canal to Richmond ; Maryland, by the Ohio aud Baltimore
railroad, and Ohio and Potomac canal ; and the whole north
ern States, from Pittsburg, by the way of the Lakes.
In the place of its requiring a tedious and dangerous voyage
from any part of the United States, to and from Canton, of
twelve months, passengers or freight could depart from Bos
ton, Massachusets, and in sixty days' time be landed in any
port of China. It will therefore appear obvious to every
American, that it is first important to obtain a good and suit
able port upon the Pacific ocean for a depot, and I know of
none better or so direct as that of San Francisco ip Upper Ca-
lifornia. Some hesitating or fastidious reader, while debating in his
mind the feasibility of such au updertakipg, would, perhaps,
exclaim to himself, " Where is ambitiou or aRHexation to ter-
miRate — must all Mexico come ip too ?" I would reply, No !
for all south of the Rio del Norte aud the Califoniias, the
copptry is too dry, apd divested of agricultural advantages to
be desirable to the North Americap or the Euorpean. It is
pecessary, for those races to live happily, that the lapd should
be cultivated ; aud that there should be water-power apd fuel
for the uses of machiuery, and these are not to be foupd in
Mexico, sopth of the bouudaries above spoken of. The re
mainder of the country is but a barren leg- — not Santa Anna's
leg — of the North American continent, unprofitable for any
thing else, but its mines of precious metals ; and, as the Mexi
cans are very good miners, and fond of the occupation, I am
unwilling, for one, that any other people should be corrupted
by its intoxicating pursuits.
Again, the Mexicans are a differept race of beings from

TRAVELS IN MEXICOl 2li
those of the United States — being only Spanish and Indian,"
and speaking the Spanish language, and wedded to an estab
lished religion. While, or the cofltrary, the iflhabitaHts of
our Uuion are composed of every people and kindred of the
whole earth, each one sitting under his own vine and fig-tree,
apd enjoying the liberty of his own conscience. They would,
therefore, tolerate none of their territories in an established
religion of worship, by law, in any portion of their wide
spread and happy dominions. If the Mexicans could become
Americanized, and would pay their national debt, I again, for
one, should have no objection.
Notwithstanding I have had the presumption to affix a
southern boundary to the United States, yet I am far from say
ing that it should have a limit to the north ; for I veritably be
lieve that the finger of God, as it has been seep ip all other
history, is ip it. So sapguine is my faith ip the arrival of the
period, whep the Americap flag shall maptle the whole of
North America — not only the Canadas, but the whole of the
British possessions on the continent must become annexed to
the United States. If an individual will only cast his eyes
upon the map, he will at once behold, that by a railroad, con
necting the head-waters of steam-boat navigation of the Mis
sissippi river with the Hudson's Bay, the North Sea will have
an internal connection and commerce with the grand whole I
And thus it can be perceived, that while the United States
would extend from the Atlantic to the Pacific, the star spangled
banner, instead of hovering over a few states, would trium
phantly wave from ocean to ocean, and from sea to sea I — May
God speed the magnificent consummation I — for the United
States would then have home protection, and home market,
without the enacting of a single law ; and free trade, by a
liberal high-mindedness, should hail " peace on earth and good
will to man;" while a prosperous and happy world, enlight
ened by true religion and constitutional liberty, will sing ho-
sannas to the great / Am. And the sons of Columbia will
have been the instruments of these great works, and the bene
factors of the whole human family.
Some one may inquire, — " What would become of the Rus
sian possessions?" I think I may safely answer, — that while
the United States will have to purchase the territories above
spoken of, by the generosity and friendship which the Auto
crat of all the Russias has evinced towards the Union, that it
may be very reasonably calculated upon, that the Emperor
would make a donation of that useless and frozen slip of his
American dominions to the Union. Or else, we could easily

$72 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
do without it, and remain in peaceful satisfaction with an
agreeable neighbour.
Nothing can he so complete in this world but what critics
can dispovpr some imperfectiops. If is said by philosophers,
that the earth apd sea are diseased, and when the angel of
destructiop shall descepd to the harvest of death, neither phy-
siciaps por priests cap heal — the destiped individual must
journey tp tfie tomb. — Every rose mpst have its thorp, apd
every sweet its bitter. Apd potwithstapdipg fair fapcy cap
picture to the beholder the unparalled prosperity of the United
States, apd the before-unseep Temple of Liberty ; yet, there is
a canker within, and the meddlesome Puritan, who is, by his
generous efforts, attemptiog tp leaven the whole lump, will, I
am afraid, often make the cake all dough. Thus I have spokep
. — as the Indiap chief said whep he hapded the calumet to his
neighbpur, And, as the 0I4 woman said, whpp she had po
meal to bake a cake — I shall hope for the best, aod trust in
God ; for he cap work whep the wisdom apd cuppipg of map
shall fail,

CHAPTER XXL
A parting word to the Arrieros. Captain of Banditti. The Ame
rican nag at/ the maBthead of a schooner. Drive a bargain with
the captain. Mating at the consul's. Contract conoluded. Re
turning home in an American vessel. British steamer. Set sail.
Mouth of the river. Custom- house officer. The vessel searched.
Officers take leave. Pilot takes us in tow. Narrowly escaped
foundering. Captain no gentleman. Injuries sustained by my
fellow-countrymen. Unhappy feelings. ReBolve. Some way of
defending myself at sea as on land. The captain alarmed. Mr.
Fulton's enjoyment. Dazzling luminary of the lighthouse.
Watched all night. Anchored off the Balize. Embarkation in
a small boat. Perilous voyage. The steamers that are met at
the Balize, Put to sea. Rudder lost. The Southerner. Con
sternation. N. E. Pass. Steamer Phoenix.
IN the openiRg of this my last chapter, I will take the occa
sion of a parting word as to the arrieros who delivered me at
Tampico. I was. so mpch pleased with the manner in which
the Mexicans had performed their duty, that I mentioped my
patisfactipp to some gentlemen of Tampico, Op ipfonping

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 273
them of the name of the Mexican of Matehaula, who had done
me the kindness to employ the arrieros for me, they expressed
themselves much surprised ; and affirmed, that my Matehaula
friend was the most renowned captain of ladrones infesting
that portion of Mexico. I defended the fame of my friendly
Mexican, by expressing the native doctrine, that he was rich,
apd beyond the necessity of dishonesty. They replied, that
Iris wealth had been obtained by robbery, and that I must at
tribute my safe deliverance — not to the good company that I
was in — but to some freak of fancy in the captain, who had
put me under the escort of his well-known and chosen men.
The kindness of the Mexican towards me, I can only ac
count for by my being in company with my nephews, to whom
he paid much attention.
On my arrival at Tampico a Santa Anna, it was with great
joy that I beheld the American flag at the mast-head of a
schooner of an hundred and five tons burtheu, which was
taking ip freight for the United States. She was the- same
vessel that Mr. Fulton bad chartered from New Orleans to
that port, and my friend proposed that we should return in
her. I had no objections to the proposition, provided that the
vessel would take me to the port of New Orleans, which was
also the wish of Mr. Fulton.
Understanding that the cargo would be taken in, and the
schooner made ready for sailing by the twenty second of July,
my friend and self went on board to drive a bargain with the
captain ; which only resulted in his proposing that, on the
following morning he would meet us at the office of the
United States' consul, and that he would there abide by what
ever Captain Chase would say, as to the price of our passage
to the Balize.
At the appointed time, all parties having met at the consul's
house, it was agreed that Mr. F. and myself should pay two
hundred dollars for our passage to the mouth of the Mississippi
river. Captain C. would have nothing to do with the trans
action's the schooner had not been consigned to him. But, in
toe presence of us all, he inquired of the captain of the vessel
if he was aware that his schooner being freighted for New
York, he would become responsible to the underwriters should
he cast anchor in any other port. The captain promptly re
sponded, that he was not unacqnainted with his liabilities,
and, as his ship was good, he bad no fears of his cargo being
damaged ; and he could not resist tho opportunity of making
two hundred dollars, which would not cost him the loss of
half a clay's time. Thus our contract was closed, in the pre
sence of the American consul.
M 6

274 TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
I have been particular in detailing the above contract in
consequepce of the after ipcidepts of the homeward voyage.
I felt delighted that I had ap opportonity of returning in an
American vessel — and, notwithstanding that it was small, I
was entirely reconciled to undergo all of the inconveniences
that such a craft is subject to. I thought of the mapy hazards
through which I had recently passed, in my peregrinations by
land, and I felt much gratified that I should be under the pro
tection of the American flag, and have a fellow-countryman
for my commander, in my journey at sea.
It was true that, by the delay of a few days more, I should
have the chance of a passage in a British steamer by the way
of Havana — yet, the more accommodating mode of travel I
was unwilling to wait for, as the Mexican vomito had com
menced its ravages at Tampico, and was already sweeping
off its iphabitapts, by givipg them but a few hours' potice.
Mr. Fultop apd myself therefore resolved that, at apy cost, apd
at the first opportunity, we would take our departure from
the sickly and devoted port of Tampico a Sauta Anna.
Early on the morning of the 22nd inBtant, our auchor beipg
weighed, aRd our sails set, we sailed down the river seven
miles before we came to the gulf. At the mouth of the river
we were hailed by the custom-house officers apd boarded by
them. The commapder of them was the same individual who
had escorted me into the city, upon my arrival at Tampico.
He iaquired if there was pot ap Americap passepger, who had
two small boys uuder his charge ? I presepted myself before
him, aRd he seeRied much pleased to meet with me. After
some compliments, and a hearty laugh respecting my long
beard and travelling apparel, in which he had first beheld me,
he and his companions bade me an affectiooate farewell, and a
happy voyage, witliout having searched our vessel, as was
their duty to do every vessel previous to their leaving for sea.
The captain of the schooner had expressed some apprehen
sions of an examination of his vessel, and, after the departure
of the polite officers, I informed him that he owed all of his
thanks for his escape to my little nephews.
The pilots next took us iu tow, thirty of whom were seated
in a boat behind their oars, to row us across the sand bar at
the mouth of the river. Their captain said that the tide was
at ebb, and that it was dangerous crossing. However the
word was given, aud up went the auchor and sails, and we
were off to sea, not though without having had a narrow escape
from foundering.
As the vessel got over the bar, a sea came apd rolled her op
her beam, the keel striking heavily against the bottom as she

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 273
surged, which motion brought every soul on board to his knees,
or prostrate on the deck. The captain shouted out, in a voice
of despair, that we were lost ; but the good schooner in her
next plunge passed the bar, and did not again strike.
The bar crossed, the captain of the pilots informed us that
it was customary for captains of vessels to treat the pilots to
whiskey or money, after performing their hard task. Our cap
tain said that he had neither money nor spirits, but that there
were two passengers on board who had some wine, and per
haps they would treat the pilots. I unhesitatingly replied to
the unthinking and penurious commander, that he was cer
tainly unreasonable to suppose that I would deprive myself
and my little family of a few bottles of wine which I had
procured for a sea-voyage. The request, or hint of the Cap
tain was an ill omen to me of the hands I had fallen into,
and the pilots departed without their accustomed beverage
or pay. ¦
The disappointment of not finding the captain of our ves
sel a gentleman, was exceedingly mortifying to me, for the
otherwise disagreeableness of my situation was to be enhanced
by my being under the command of a man I could not respect,
and one whom I had reason to expect would act dishonourably
towards me, from the description which Mr. Fulton had given
of his performances.
While in Mexico, I anticipated to meet with none but such
characters ; and indeed I can say that the most serious losses
and sufferings which I sustained in that country, were at the
hands of my fellow-countrymen, resulting from my over-con
fidence in them — and that he in particular by whom I suffered
most, was a Virginian, who first took the opportunity of de
ceiving my deceased brother, and then myself. Nothing but
the respect that I entertain for their honourable parentage and
relatives, prevents me from publishing their names to the
world. However my fellow-citizens at home may content
themselves with the statement of the fact that, in Mexico,
there are but few Americans, comparatively speaking, who
have not had the best reasons for flying their country. It is
yet to be hoped that they may become virtuous men, and good
citizens of their adopted land.
I repeat that, in my departure from a country where I had
suffered so much fatigue and excitement, from the continued
hazard of my condition, it was with unhappy feelings that I
had to be confined to the society of the captain of the schooner,
without the prospect of enjoying any pleasure. Emaciated
by sea-sickness, I resolved to wile away my time in the ca
bin by reposing, and leave him as much as possible to himself.
While thus indulging, on the second day of our voyage from

87fl TRAVELS IN MEXICO.
Tampico, Mr, Fulton came into the cabin, and informed pie
that the oaptaip had said that he woold not put me out at the
Balize, but would steer for New York. My friend had not
more than mentioned the fact, before the faithless man came
in himself and abruptly remarked that he did not intend to be
plagued with us, but that he would sail direct for New York.
I had pot expected hiRi to prove so base, apd although token
by surprise, I had the same way of defepdiRg myself at sea
as I had op lapd. I hastily unlocked piy trunk, and took
from it a revolver. I then informed my brave captain that he
was not to take me to New Yovk, but that he was to make
good his oontraot with mo, or else he or I should have to die.
I furthermore explained to him that, as additiopal reasons
for holding him to a strict compliance with his agreement, his
vessel was leaking five hundred strokes per hour, in con
sequence of the fresh water worm having perforated the hull,
while at anchor at Tampico ; as also, that one half of his crew
were sick. I reminded him, likewise, of my having property
at New Orleans, and that to that port only I was determined
to go, and that I should disembark at the Balize.
My friend resolutely seconded me in all I said, and the cap
tain very quietly for the next two days kept his bed, saying
that he was sick — but Mr. Fulton amused himself by exciting
his fears, and listening to his appeals to preserve his life. The
captain was not aware that, at that particular period, it was
dangerous for any man to attempt to wrong me, for my feel
ings had for the last nine months always been up to the com
bating point, and to meet with a disappointment and vexatiop
from him was Rot very agreeable to piy unpleasant condition.
On the evenipg of the eighth day of our voyage, while piy
frieRd apd self were seated upon the deck of the schooner,
about the hour of early candle-light, we discovered the red
luminary of the light-house of the south-east pass. So re
joiced were we that we at once determined to sit up all night,
to watch that the steersman would pot sail the light down.
We were induced to do so fur the reason that, on the night
previous, a sailor had proclaimed that he saw a light-house,
when the captain peremptorily denied the assertion, and steer
ed from the object. Mr. Fulton had often been in and out of
the Balize, and was impressed with the opinion that the vessel's
course had been set for New York, from "the position of the
light when seen. This explains the fact that vessels bound
for New York, or any other northern port, from Tampico,
first steer for the Balize, and thence to their destined port.
However, we determined that we should not let go our hold
upon the light-house of the. S. E- pass, and I did not suffer
Bleep on that night to close my eyelids,.

TRAVELS IN MEXICO. 277
On the following morning, as soon as an anchorage was ob
tained, we let go our auchor, and six of us iu all, with the
baggage of myself and friend, was put into the long boat, and
I bade the schooner adieu, for a steamboat was in Bight up the
river of the South East pass. The mate, who accompanied us
said that our voyage iu the boat was three miles by sea, and
about as far oyer the surges of the river to the steamer South
erner. The toil of the sailors was incessant ; they were much
exhausted when they reached their destination, prostrating
themselves, on the deck of the steamer. My friend and self
did not follow the example of our captain towards the pilots,
but rewarded the poor men for their trouble and sufferings.
So perilous was the voyage we had made from the schooner
to the steamer, that it was imagined by all who saw uS that
we had deserted the vessel, on account of her being in distress,
probably foundering — first, because the sea was rolling — and
next, ip copsequepce of the great dapger of a small boat at
tempting to stem the Mississippi river. But we were hastened
off by the captain of the schooner, he refusing our request to
wait until boarded by a pilot. He, no doubt, would have been
rejoiced to have seen us go to the bottom, but happily we were
safely delivered,
The steamers that are met with at the passes, are tow-boats,
employed by the shipping to carry them to and from New Or
leans. The Southerner having parted with the ship she had
towed to the mouth, on the next day went to sea in search of
other vessels. The wind was light, it Was slightly raining ;
and as the land was hardly visible, I was engaged in conver
sation with a very interesting young lady, when the captain's
wife, in much consternation, ran into the cabin, and exclaimed
that we were lost ! The crew were all in confusion, for the
boat was unmanageable, rapidly sheering round in a circle.
It was soon discovered that the rudder was lost, and a
temporary fixture having been made by the carpenter, we
made for the mouth of the North East pass, and anchored at
a wood-yard. The captain of the Southerner informed us that
it would require one week's time to repair the damage, and
said that if we were in haste, it would be advisable for us to
make for a ship about three miles up the river, which would
be takep ip tow that evening.
Thus again we had to take a small boat, which delivered
ps on board the ship in time for the steamer. No other un
happy occurrences or misfortune happened to me during the
remainder of my journey — aud upon the 2d day of August I
landed at New Orleans, on, if my memory serves rne right, the
Jpw-boat Phoenix,

APPENDIX.

OREGON.
View of Oregon. Description of Upper and Lower California, with
a map of those countries. Biography of the Emperor Don Au
gustin Iturbide.
There have been epochs in the history of the world when the
eyes of all natiops were directed to the advaRce of power aRd
ambitiofl op the ope part, aRd the overthrow aRd subjugatiou
of empires or the other. Such were the copquests of Sesostris,
— a world wop by ap Alexapder, — the chivalry of the Crusaders,
¦ — the freak of fortuue of Charles the V. — the triumphs of Na-
poleop, — apd the wide-spread military dopiipioo of the Isles
of Britaio.
Spch revolutious ip the Christiap, social, apd political
apielioratiop of the condition of mankiRd, caH, witliout toe
possibility of a doubt, be diviued to have beep the finger of
God, conducting the fallen race of man through his own igno
ble gore from a groveling and benighted conditiop to the more
glorious image of his Maker.
It capRot be denied that the discovery of America by Colum
bus was an epoch, and it is equally true that the crisis of the
revolution of British America was the commencement of an
"age of reason," in the history of nations, that must enlarge
and spread its benign influence until it mantles the whole
earth, proclaiming freedom and liberty of conscience to the op
pressed and enthralled of mankind ; and he is wanting in dis
cernment, who does not perceive that England has been made
the great pioneer to prepare the way in pew aad barbarous re
gions, for the introduction of that last and greatest era — the
conquest of tyrants and bigots, by the magic and redeeming
iivflueRce oi reason and principle ! But for a want of faith by
the chief priests, scribes, and pharisees, Christ was crucified,
and Jerusalem devastated by the Romans. England then
should take waruipg ; for by a stubborn opposition to the di
vine advent of this last and greatest ray of light, the reppblic
of America, by the all-powerful pripciples of the sacred Bill of

APPENDIX. 27?
Rights of '76, will dismember her colossal empire, and not
leave one stone upon another at the footstool of her oppres
sion. The march of mind is onward, and great principle, the pillar
of cloud by day, and of fire by night, will triumph m its
career. The arm of Jehovah, covered by the thick bosses of
his buckler, will give liberty to the captive and freedom to the
oppressed of every clime. Whilst the tottering thrones of
kings, guarded with bayonets, attempt to shield their power
by deceitful and corrupt diplomacy, principle will prove them,
and cause them to bow their heads at the altar of liberty. •
And should the Republic of the United States be threatened
with enemies and alliances against her peace and happi
ness ; her trust, as well as her alliance, will be with the God
of battles, who will lead her on to glorious victory; ex
tending the " area of freedom," mantling her conquest with
the stars and stripes, and annexing her peaceful acquisitions
after the policy of her constitution.
By the extension of such views, it is not then strange that
the attention of all Christendom should be directed to that vast
extent of country, lying west of the United States, embracing
a coast of great length along the Pacific ; a country which,
from the extept of its rivers, the number of, and valuable
minerals of its mountains, as well as for the richness and
variety of the products of its soil, should claim the protection
of laws and civilization.
The country of western America, as a portion of God's heri- ¦
tage to man, has, until dates of recent period, been inhabited
only by the savage, and roamed over by the brute creation —
never have known civilized human beings, except in the occa
sional visits of the adventurous hunter, or the searching ex
plorer, who have never attempted to reduce the face of nature
to that dominion designed by the all-bountiful Creator when
he proclaimed, that by the sweat of man's brow the earth
should be tilled.
The Pacific coast of North America, which more immediately
interests the American public, as the first and greatest pro
prietors of its terra firma, is at present comprehended in what is
known as the Oregon territory. The country lying to the north
of fifty-four degrees and forty minutes, is denominated the
British possessions ; that to the south as far as latitude forty-
two, is known as Oregon, and south of the latter parallel,
California stretches far into the torrid zone, — its southern ex
tremity, Cape San Lucas lying in the twenty-third degree of
north latitude.
The extent of coast of the above three great divisions of

2W.. APPENPVX,
couptry, is about three toousaod miles, breastipg an interior
territory of every variety of climato, soil, and productions.
The British possessions occupy the frigid zone, Oregon and
Upper California the temperate, aRd the southerp extreme of
Lower California the torrid zoue.
The Oregop couptry is supposed to extend from Cape Mep-
docinp pp the south, to Cape Flattery op the porth, lying south
west of the Island of Quadra apd Vancouver — the whole coast
preseptipg a line nearly due porto. The couptry of Oregop is
calculated to coptaifl ahput four hundred square miles, and
capable of supporting two hundred millions of inhabitants.
The Columbia river, the largest of all the streams of Oregon,
is formed hy the junction, at the distance of two hundred apd
fifty Riiles from its mouth, of the Lpwis apd Clark rivers ; the
latter rises at the north, apd the former has its origip at the
south. The Columbia river is said to receive pearly all the waters
which rise ip the Rocky Mouptaips, apd flow west through
this territory. The river epters the Pacific by two moqths.
The promoptory at the poi-th is called Cape Disappointpiept ;
that to the south, Cape Adams- The Columbia does not, at
all times, afford a safe harbour, and is a stream of difficult, apd
often hazardous navigation, ip consequence of the number of
shoais and rocks in its bed. North of the Columbia, in the
Straits of Fuga, there are several good harbours for small ves
sels, whilst further south, at all times, navigation is rendered
dangerous hy the prevailing south-west winds, which drive
the surges of the sea over high rocks and shallow bars.
In the fifty-third degree of porth latitude, rises the head
waters of one of the tributaries of the Columbia, the Canoe
river ; and what is remarkable, as one of the wonders of na
ture, connected with tips stream, is, that only a few feet from
the lake of the Canoe river, is another similar lake, froni
whence flow the waters of the Athabasca, which enters into,
and connects with the waters of the Arctic sea, Hudson's
Bay, and the Canadian lakes; thus'most wonderfully exhibit
ing, ip a deep cleft of the great dividing ridge, separating the
east from the west, between the two volcanic peaks of Mount
Brown, one thousand six hundred feet high, and Blount
Hooker, of one thousand five hundred feet of terrific sublimity
abpve. the sea — standing in majestic grapdour, like two great
tp.wers prptectipg the pass — the "Punch Bowl," from whence
flows, the pure, fresh, liquid element of the mountain, to
mingle IP the salt floods of two qpposite oceans, forming,
at once', a connecting link between the old and new world. —
Through tins wonderful pass, the English carry op their trade

APPENDIX. 281
from the Pacific coast, almost entirely by water, to Montreal
in Canada, and to Fort Factory in Hudson's Bay.
With the foregoing succinct views of the extent of the ter
ritory of Oregon, and its facilities for navigation, and exten
sive inland commerce, it was frequently impressed upon my
mind, while on the Pacific coast, that it was strange my fel
low citizens of the United States did not awake to their true
interests, and wrest from foreign possession their justly ac
quired territories, so improperly detained from them, in con
travention of treaty guarantees, and the rights of occupancy.
Altoough the harbours north of the Columbia river are not
the best or largest on the coast, yet, from the easy navigation
of the rivers and lakes which empty into the Pacific, upon
the one hand, and flow into the Atlantic, upon the other, —
making an almost entire and unobstructed navigation from
ocean to ocean — it is highly probable that this route may be
made to command the best part of the commerce with China
and the East Indies ; and, unless our government recover
and maintain its rights in the country of Oregon, we may be
prepared to relinquish our expectations of establishing a
profitable over-land trade with the Pacific. The tardy policy
of the government would render the acquisition of the bay
and port of San Francisco of little use to the nation, in com
petition with British capital and enterprise on this natural
route. And unless a decided and energetic policy be adopted,
in reference to the great object of trans-coptipeptal commerce
with the Pacific — a policy overcomiflg all obstacles in the at
tainment of an object of such transcendent national impor
tance — we may be prepared to surrender California likewise,
and, with it, those vast commercial enterprises, to the cupidity
of our British friends, and their determination to circumscribe
our power and advancement.
When we remember that the discovery of this continent, by
Columbus, was the result of an attempt to find a passage to
the East Indies, for commercial benefits, and notwithstanding
a vast continent blocked up the high-way to the rich stores of
those regions, eager enterprise was ever vigilant in searching
for some strait or narrow sea, by which the goal could be
gained, and the wealth of the far-east flooded into the coffers
of the avaricious west. Not a bay was seen, nor a river dis
covered, but what the watchful navigator, ever possessed of
the single object of a western passage to the east — would,
amidst the shouts of his mariners, embrace the delusion, that this
Or that, was the desired, long-sought for passage.
In 1542 the Spaniards, having possession of the Philippine
Islands, it gave to the merchants of that people the inopopoly

282 APPENDIX.
of the trade with China. But, in 1616, the promontory of
Cape Horn was discovered and sailed round, which had the
effect to draw from the Atlantic coast of the Spanish Main,
hordes of English and French bucaniers, who had been, by
actual liceuse, or sileRt coHsept of their several goverpmepts,
epcouraged to depredate upou Spapish commerce, apd plunder
their towRS.
The powers of Europe, uuable at all times to compete with
Spaip in open warfare, upon the ocean, stealthily engaged in
freebooting and piracy upon their merchant-ships, entertaining
the hope that thereby Spain might be ultimately weakened in
marine power aRd wealth, apd her commerce gradually de
stroyed. It has beep said that " the efforts of the Eoglish afld
their goverpmeHt, to establish commerce with the Spanish do-
minious ip America, have, ip fact, beep the principal causes or
motives of all the wars between those nations since the six-
teepth ceHtory."
The effect produced by the discovery of Cape Horn, resulted
also in the sailing directly across the Pacific to Asia and the
Indies ; and thus, while the commerce of the Spaniards was
perpetually harrassed on the high-seas by English and French
pirates, the ports of the eastern world were thrown open to
the universal trade of all commercial nations.
Coeval with the advance of commerce, the settlement of
colonies on the eastern coast of North America, by different
European nations, was in regular progression. Englapd had
acquired possession of the present Atlantic coast of the United
States, and with the immense advantage, already secured to
her commercial interests, has never abandoned the idea of dis
covering a near passage to the Pacific, by way of the north
west, having repeatedly fitted out exploring expeditions to
navigate the Arctic sea.

CALIFORNIA.
This country has, within the last few years, excited an
increased degree of interest thoughout the commercial world,
but especially with the citizens of the United States. The
American people have been led to give a greater degree of
attention to California recently, in consequence of the removal
there of a large number of American emigrants, originally
settlers in Oregon, who left the latter region in consequence
of the superiority of the soil and climate of the former.
After Hernando Cortes had subdued Mexico, and established

APPENDIX. 283
himself in the ancient city of the Montezeumas, he extended
his conquests far to the west, and having made his way to the
Pacific, built a fleet with which to explore for pew disco-'
veries. The fleet was put under the command of Diego Hurtado
de Mendoza, who sailed along the coast north-west, as far as
San Jose, in latitude tweuty-seven.
But this expedition having proved disastrous, Cortes him
self took commapd of a squadron, and sailed to the north-west
in search of new countries, and on the 3d of May, 1535, an
chored his vessels in a bay upon which he bestowed the name
of Santa Cruz. This bay is situated upon the south-east
coast of what is now known as Lower California. And thus
it is, California had for its discoverer one of the most renowned
of the early adventurers in the new world ; and now, at a
period of more than three hundred years from its discovery, is
but just beginning to excite interest among civilized men.
The country of California lies between the 22nd and 42nd
parallels of north latitude, apd is divided in two parts. The
northern portion is called New, or Upper California, the
Southern, Old, or Lower California, the dividing line being
about latitude thirty-two.

LOWER CALIFORNIA.
The peninsula of Lower California, it will be perceived, on
reference to the map, is a narrow strip of land, extending far
to the south-east, and is washed upon its eastern shore by the
Gulf of California, while the vast waters of the pacific dash
their surges against its mountaiuous coast on the west.
This peninsula is about seven hundred miles in length, and
only one hundred and thirty in its greatest breadth on the
north, with a main width of about ninety-five miles, gradually
diminishing as it extends southward, until it reaches its extre
mity, formed by two bold promontories, Cape Palmo on the
east, and Cape San Lucas on the west.
Lower California has a most uninviting face of country,
having a high rocky range of hills running the entire extent of
the peninsula, generally bordering upon the western coast.
The valleys are few, narrow, and sandy; and, owing to the
unfrequency of rains, are unproductive, unless the location is
such as to admit of irritation. All the irrigated lands of Ca-
ifornia, as well as Mexico, whether rich or poor, are gene
rally very productive. In the northern portion of Lower Ca
lifornia, it sometimes happens that raips do pot fall for years

$34 APPENDIX.
at a time, while to the south, towards the capes, there are
generally copious and refreshing showers during the months
of June, July and August.
The western coast of the peninsula is high, dangerous, and
rocky, affording but insecure anchorage for vessels ; while not
a stream of any magnitude enters into toe ocean on that side,
and freshwater is pot found in any qpaptities pear the coast.
The harboprs op the Pacific, are at Bay laMagdalena, and Port
San Quintifl ; the latter has fresh water ip the vicipity. The
eastern shores are low, and without good harbours, the waters
of the gulf beipg shallow, aud oply pavigated with daHger by
the smaller class of vessels.
That portion of Mexico which borders upon the Gulf of
California, east of the pepiRsula, was originally divided into
two provinces, but is now comprehended in one, called the de
partment of Sonora and Sinaloa, nnder the govemmeot of Gene
ral Urea. Those territories were originally bpt thinly inhabited,
bat are now, from the mountains to the sea shore, quite as
numerously populated as any other portions of Mexico — a re
sult attributable to the more extensive opening of the veins of
silver in that department, and the greatly increased foreign
trade of Guamas and Mazatlan — in the last of which the po
pulation has trebled, since the year 1835. There are not less
than two hundred Americans at Mazatlan. The port of
Guamas is in lat. 23 deg. 4t> min., and although a better har
bour and safer anchorage than at Mazatlan, in lat. 27 deg. 40
min., yet the latter has a greater commerce than any other
Mexican port on the Pacific. The departmeflt of Sopora and}
Sipoloa has a rich apd very productive soil, with more numer-
ops apd servicable rivers apd water-courses thap aRy other
portiop of Mexico. Ir the pplapd regiop, cottop is cultivated
whilst maize aud wheat grow to perfection, and upon the
rivers sugar-cane grows iu luxuriance, without replaptipg.
The sugar plapter has oflly to cut his cape, trapsport it or the
backs of his Riules to the mill, where it is crushed apd pre
pared by meaps of a very rude woodep crushiug machipe, al
together used in that country.
Lower California has long been celebrated for the pearl
stones contained in the oyster taken on its coasts. It is said
that the pearl fishery in the Gulf of California has given to the
crown of Spain the greatest portion of its royal wealth. The
pearl is takeR tliere at great hazard of life by the todians,
who divp to astonishing depths in pnrsuit of it. The divers
are sometimes drowped, apd at others destroyed by the furi
ous sharks pf those waters. The Connackers of the Sapd-
Wich Islands, are said to be the most expert divers, apd cap

APPErTDlX. 283
swim farther, and remaip longer under water, than any other
people of the Pacific. Diving-bells have been ineffectually
used in pearl fishing ; yet it is highly probable that the more
recent invention of gum-elastic water-proof suits, with re
spiring tubes, may be successfully substituted, saving great
loss of life, and producing much more profitable results. The
pearl oyster is fouud betweep the crevices of the rock, at the
bottom of the sea.
The hills aRd mouptaips of Lower California are only pro
ductive of the precious metals ; and the mines, though of an
cient date, were not extensively explored, and are but little
worked. Near the town of Angelles there is a gold mipe,
said to be very rich. In the mining districts of other parts
of Mexico, gold is not obtained unmixed with silver, but
in California both ores are found in distinct deposits, inde
pendent of any other metals, as in some parts of the United
States. The sea of Cortes, so called by the early navigators, af
terwards named Mar Vermejo by the Spaniards, and now
known to the world as the Gulf of California, is an arm of
the Pacific extending the whole length of the peninsula of
Lower California, and separating it from the main land,
with an average width of near one hundred miles. It re
ceives the Colorado of the west at its head, in latitude 32 deg.,
and contains several fine islands, of which Carmen and Tibu-
ron are the principal. In early times this Gulf was the
retreat and rendezvous of the Dutch pirates who infested the
Pacific. The climate of Lower California is uniformly that of the
torrid zone, the soil producing all the fruits grown in tro
pical regions. The country is considered healthy, and, in
deed, the severities of sickness known upon the eastern coast
are never felt on the Pacific shores of North America. San
Bias has been the most unhealthy of any Pacific port, yet
the Mexican vomito of Vera Cruz has never made its ap
pearance there. Mr. Peck, an American gentleman, pre
viously spoken of, who has resided at San Bias and its vi
cinity for eight years, states that no sickness or epidemic
is there periodical, as at Vera Cruz, Tampico, and New
Orleans, and that such things are only known occasionally, in
the lapse of years.
Lower California is supposed to contain from four to five
thousand inhabitants, No correct census was ever taken. —
There are but few Mexicans or foreigners among them, the
population being principally Indians, natives of the country.

286 APPENDIX.

UPPER CALIFORNIA.
This country was discovered in the year 1539, by an expedi
tion commanded by Francisco de Ulloa, which was fitted out
for the purpose of making discoveries by the ambitious and
enterprising Cortez, very soon after the conquest of Mexico.
The first permanent Spanish settlement was made in the year
1769, at the present town of San Diego, in latitude 32 deg.
and 41 min.
Upper, or New California, extends along the Pacific from
latitude thirty-two, to Cape Mindocino in latitude 40 deg. and
19 min., and from the coast to the east, as far as the bounda
ries of the north-eastern departments of New Mexico. The
exact area of Upper California is at present undefined, and
the interior has been but inadequately explored.
The bays and harbours on this coast are numerous and capa
cious. Among the latter, the principal are the ports of San
Francisco, situated on the bay of that name, Monterey and
San Diego, and several others of lesser note. San Carlos de
Monterey is the capital of California, and has a fine harbour
and considerable commerce.
It was at Monterey that a demonstration was made, in
1843, by the United States Pacific squadron, under command
of Commodore Jones, who, understanding that a treaty had
been negotiated by the agents of the British government with
Santa Anna, for a transfer of California to Great Britain, and
that an English fleet was about to sail for Monterey, to con
summate the purchase, deemed it his duty to resist the antici
pated encroachment, and took possession of Monterey for the
purpose. It has been suggested, that the intelligence im
parted to Commodore Jopes was false, and intended to de
ceive that officer and induce the capture of Monterey, in order
to afford Lord George Paulet, the British Admiral, ap authori
tative precedeut, which would epable him to plead the doc-
tripe of estopel, iR case of Apiericap ipterferepce, ip his cop-
templated seizure of the Saudwich islaRds. Be that as it may,
the islaflds were seized witliout the shadow of just cause, aud
but for the demonstrations of indignation, so universally mani
fested in this country and Europe, in consequence, the great
stopping place in the highway of the Pacific would now have
been another English Gibraltar, secofld ip maritime ipiport-
ance to no other point protected by the British flag. Nearly
coeval with this transaction, was the English crusade against
China, so familiar to the world, — a crusade which, it cap be

APPENDIX. 287
demonstrated, was designed to render the Celestial Empire
solely tributary to British commerce aud traffic. Ip each of
these attempts she was, at least temporarily, defeated. But
when we view the transactions with scrutiny, there is an ob
vious connexion between the Chinese war, the Sandwich
Island affair, and her palpably unwarrantable and contuma
cious attitude in reference to Oregon. She has pettifogged us
out of our territory on the north-east, and taken possession of
the strong points on that frontier, by which she can easily
protect the lower provinces. She has fortified the Lake fron
tier and filled Canada with her troops. She is opening a line
of communication for steam ships, from Liverpool to the west
ern extremity of Lake Superior ; and if she maintains her
position in Oregon, a rail-road to the Pacific and a line of
steamers via the Sandwich Islands to China, will throw into
her lap all the European, if not the American commerce, with
the eastern and southern coast of Asia.
Besides the places hitherto enumerated on the California
coast, there are the harbours of San Pedro, Santa Cruz, and
Punta de los Reyes. But the most celebrated of all, and pro
bably the most superior on the American continent, is the har
bour of San Francisco, situated upon the beautiful and capa
cious bay of that name, in latitude 37 deg. 55 min. This
harbour gives to California, with its fine climate and produc
tive soil, great and incalculable advantages over any other
country of the western coast, because it presents commercial
facilities of so commanding a character, as to render it, in the
hands of an enterprising people, the great depot of the Pacific.
It will be to that coast, if in the possession of the Anglo-Ame
ricans, what New York is to Atlantic countries, the great
emporium of commerce and civilization, and ere another cen
tury shall have passed away, a wealthy, populous, and power
ful empire, will have arisen on the Pacific, and San Francisco
will rival many of its Atlantic neighbours.
Although this harbour is equal to any other in the world,
until recently it has been but little known, except as a resort
for pirates. It is now often visited by navigators, and for
some time has been an important depot for the vessels engaged
in the whale fishery. Should California remain under the do
minion of Mexico, which is neither a naval nor commercial
power, with a selfish and isolated colonial policy, jealous of
the inHOvatioHS of eflterprise and civilization, and better satis
fied with the gains of an illicit trade and domestic free-booting,
than the legitimate profits of an enlarged, liberal, and honest
intercourse with the world, San Francisco would remain a
small, unimproving, apd decayipg old towp, apd the rich

288 APPENDIX.
country around it an undeveloped waste. But the all-wise
Being, who created the sea, as well as the earth, for the do
minion of man, doubtless intended, in his own fullness of time,
to render the beautiful waters of San Francisco of corresponding
benefit to his intelligent creatures, and will cause them to
aflswer the evidept designs of nature. Time, in its onward
course, has beeu constantly developing new points and cir
cumstances, which, however unimportant in themselves, when
taken in conpexiop with others, have evefltually filled a large
space iu the history of the world ; apd whep we look at the
history of empires throughout the world, the progress of popu-
latiop, wealth, aud civilizatiop to the west, the already rapid
Apierican emigratiop to California, apd the patural aRd neces
sary future coppexion of that couutry with the Uuited States,
we cap but regard it as the great maguet, aRd the ultima thule
of the rapid movemept of the past — the progress of empire
towards the settiflg sun. Although many mountaiRS apd
ravines intervene between New Orleans and San Francisco,
there are no ipsunnouutable barriers to the copstructiop of a
rail-road to connect the two points, and when this gigantic
thoroughfare shall be completed, the great and long-sought
" north-western passage to the East Indies will have been
discovered. Apd should American policy prevail on this con
tinent, this route will be found to be the best, most practica
ble, and shortest to the Pacific, combining advantages in every
way superior to all others.
Within the last few months we have made rapid strides
towards California ; we have annexed Texas, and all the terri
torial rights and admissions belonging to her government,
accrue to the sovereignty of these United States ; and our flag
already waves triumphantly on the left bank of the Rio
Grande. Whatever may be the resnlt of the present question
of boundary, between Mexico and the United States of the
north, the next movement will carry us to the Pacific. The
only boundary question, if any, now existing between the two
nations, is, as to the country beyond the Rio Grande. The
title of Texas is as valid to all territory east of that river, as
to any other portion of the country. But General Lamar, in
his first message as President of the Republic of Texas,
claimed all of the country lying west of Texas to the Pacific.
And while the Texan commissioper at the court of St. James
was pegotiating the acknowledgment of the independence of
his country by England, Lord Palmerston called the attention
of General Hepdersop, theTexafl Piipister, to the extraordinary
claim set up by the President of Texas, afld objected to go on
with the uegotiatiop, lest the ackpowledgment of the inde-«

APPENDIX. 289
pendence of the country might be construed to sanctiop its
asserted claimed to northern Mexico aod California. The
commissioner replied, that he had no authority to commit his
government to the question Of boundary. Nevertheless the
independepce' of Texas was theR ackpowledged by the British
govemmeRt, aod with full kpowledge and admission by them
of President Lamar's claim. The reasoning of Lord Palmer
ston was correct, and Great Britain is for ever stopped from
opposing our future acquisitions in that territory, even by
conquest, so long as we leave the question of boundary open,
and remain uncommitted upon it. '
The rivers of California are not very numerous ; the princi-i
pal streams are the Sacramento, a large fine body of water
which discharges into the bay of San Francisco, and the Co
lorado (Red) river; which empties into the Gulf of California.
The Colorado rises near the head waters of the Rio 'Grande
del Norte ; and while the one fertilizes a vast region west of
the great chain of mountains, the other for more thap one
thousaud miles forces its way through a mountain range, and
at last disembogues its waters on the opposite side of the
continent, into the Gulf of Mexico.
There are several laltes in the interior plains of California.
That called the Utah (salt) lake, is the largest, deriving its
saline qualities, doubtless, from the great Constituent part of
carbonate of soda, that exists in the mineral deposits of the
volcanic region1 about it, ahd of all the lands of Mexico.
The chain of hills which run through the peninsula of
California, extend northward, gradually increasing in size,
until they acquire the character of mountains, the principal
peak of which is' called Mount San Bernardin. These'moun-
tains are the most western range of California, and are com
monly called the Sierra Nevada, or snowy mountains. ' The
greatest breadth of territory, between the mountains and the
ocean, does not greatly exceed one hundred miles. The chain
of the Cordilleras, or Rocky Mountains of Oregon, extend
though this province. These mountains havd their peculiarities
of character and formation, varying little at different points:
At the city of Mexico they are called the Sierra Anahuac,
after the ancient name of the valley of the city of Mexico,
while in other sections they have exclusive appellations. '
The country of Upper California, east of the Sierra Nevada;
was never taken possession of by the Spaniards, or their suc
cessors, the Mexicans ; and hence it has remained a compara
tively unknown and unoccupied wilderness. In 1835, Mexico
abandoned her military posts apd church missiops ip California,
N

290 APPENDIX.
and subsequent historical facts abundantly prove that the
government intended to relinquish the country — regarding it
as the people of Mexico do, as a region too worthless and re
mote for the expense of its military occupancy, or themselves
as too weak to sustain their authority over it. But, after the
affair of Commodore Jones, at Monterey, the government sent
a small body of troops there, which however have since been
driven ofl", the inhabitants, including many Americans, having
made a successful revolt against the government of the pro-
vince. The civilized population of California is very small, and
limited principally to the towns, the aggregate of which does
not exceed five hundred. To the north is the town of Salvada
Rosa, originally founded by the Russians, but row occupied
principally by Americans, containing about two hundred in
habitants. On the bay of San Francisco are situated the vil
lage of the same name, and the towns of Santa Clara and San
Jose, with an aggregate population of about fifteen hundred.
Further south is the town of Monterey, with three hundred
settlers, and in the vichrity several other lesser places. The
most populous town of all California, is that of Pueblo de los
Angelos, with about one thousand inhabitants.
The greater part of the population of California belong to
the aboriginal Indians, and their mixed descendants. The
Indians are generally of the Camanche tribe ; who, in this
region, are considered more faithful and honest than the com
mon Mexicans at the south, and are better-looking and more
intelligent than North American Indians generally. Never
theless no reliance can be placed upon thepi, apd the trappers
apd other advepturers in that copptry, fipd it pecessary to
observe the greatest precautiop to prevept their attempts at
murder apd theft.
The mountains of California abound in valuable mineral,
containing as they do ap extension of the veins of silver that
run thropgh the whole range of the Cordilleras to the south.
Gold is here found, as in Lower California, ipdepepdent of apy
other ores ; silver is also abundant. Both metals are obtained
by the Indiana, who crush the ore between rocks, and then
melt it ip rude mud furnaces, producing what is called fire
silver, ap article ipferior to the mercury silver, by from twepty
to twenty-five per cept, ip copsequepce of the amoupt of
silex left ip the bullion. No country is piore productive of
pure virgip silver than this. The largest specimen ip the
world was obtained from these mountains, and purchased by
the government of Chihuahua, for the sum of five thousand

APPENDIX. 291
dollars, and may now be seen ip the cabipet of minerals, at
the capital of that department.
The climate of Upper California varies slightly iu tempe
rature from Horth to south, but is never excessively cold at
any point. In winter snow is sometimes seen as far south as
San Francisco, but it soon disappears. The cold of the moun
tains is somewhat more intense, and the silvery crest of the
Sierra Nevade may be seen for several months in the year.
From April until November the sky is often overclouded, and
the weather tempestuous upon the coast, while the ipterior is
ipsufficieptly blessed with rains.
The soil of Upper California resembles that of all the coun
try south of it, and without regard to quality it may be ren
dered very productive, upon the borders of the streams or
other locations where the lands can be irrigated. All kinds of
grain flourish in perfection, and the wheat is said to be the
best in the world, and yieldiug with little trouble the most
abundant harvest. Grass is ever verdant and nutritious,
rendering California one of the best grazing countries oh the
globe. Neither in Upper nor Lower California can cotton be grown
to perfectiou, ip coRsequeuce of the climate being alternately
too hot or too cold, too dry or too damp. In the southern
parts of the lower province, it sometipies happens that years
elapse without raiu; while ip the upper proviuce it is too
wet dUriog the three months of the rainy season, and the
cotton vegetates too luxuriantly; and, on the other hand,
in the dry region, the staple is short and of a muddy com
plexion, like all cotton cultivated in tropical regions. The
author has seen cotton growing in the departments of Sonora
and Sinaloa, and although in the same parallel of latitude
of the famous cottou regioR of Texas, it does Rot, under
tho most favourable circumstances, attain the perfection of the
poorest article cultivated iu the United States, but is of the
same character as all the cottoRS grown south of the Rio
Graude River.
By the aRRexatioH of Texas, the United States will secure
the monopoly of the cotton trade, rendering thereby all manu
facturing countries tributary to her for a supply of the raw
material ; and it only remains for the American people to foster
this branch of agriculture, and retain the control of all the
cotton territory on the North American continent, to render
this nation eventually the most wealthy and powerful on the
globe. Bountiful nature has, in ro other couutry, lavished its stores
of every kipd as in the Upited States, and its people should be

?9J APPENP?X.
thapkful and happy. The piiperals of the middle states are
imbedded in mountains of coal ; whilst the hill sides are clothed
with thick forests, the sand, the lime, the soap-stone, and
fire-earth, is ever presgpt for fluxiug apd rendering the ores to
metals. The trappers and Jpdiaps represept the upoccupied couptry
east of the Sierra Nevada, as the most ioviting to the agricul
turist, aud better capable of supplyiug the wapts of civi
lized life, thap that iipoo the coast- Streams of water are
there more abuudapt, and lakes and spriugs, some valuable for
their saliae qualities, spot the earth for the benefit of auimal
creation ; while, in the growing season, the dews of heaven
descepd in ample quantities to prouiote the growth of vegeta
tion. That portion of California most known i^ npt remarks
able for its agricplturaj iuducemeuts ; yet it is abupdantly
rich ip miperals, apd possesses greater coomiercial advaptages
than any other country on the western coast of America. The
greater part of the territory lying between the Sierra Nevada
and Texas, renmins, yet to be explored and settled, when it
will yield the most bouutiful returns to civilized and Christian
map. As it regards the general history and state of society in Ca
lifornia, it cannot be otherwise thap upipterestiug to the gepe-
ral reader; apd if these outlipes shall coptribute to awaken a
degree of ipterest ip the affairs of the western portion of our
coptipept, commensurate with the importance of the subject,
the author of these travels will be amply rewarded for his
time apd expepditure, while travelling through the perilous
and unfrequented roads of Mexico.

BIOGRAPHY OF ITURBIDE,
EX-EMPEROR OF MEXICO.
The world is familiar with the career of Don Augustin de
Iturbide, as the first and ouly crowned head that has occupied
a throne in North America since its settlement by Europeans ;
and, what is more remarkable, he was elevated by the free
apd almost unapimous voice of his countrymen, from the
station of a citizen to the office and prerogatives of a monarch,
Iturbide was born in the year 1785, in the town of Valla
dolid, near the Pacific coast of Mexico ; and sprang from one
of toe oldest and most respectable Castilian families of Jalasco,
who had always occupied au ipiportaRt positiOH ip the couptry,

APPENDIX. 293
arid were not less distinguished for their affection for, the
people of Mexico than their adherence and loyalty to their
sovereign down to the period of successful revolution:
The early instruction of Iturbide was vefy judiciously at
tended to, and, al thoiigli it Was impossible for hint to acquire;
in Mexico, What wobld be regarded^ ih Europe; a brilliant
education, he easily attained ail the solid acquirements suitable
to the highest sphere of the politician or soldier. He exhibited,
at an early age, very commanding talents; ahd the history of
his SUbsedueiit life nnlst satisfy the world} whether they were
honourably or advantageously exercised. His career com
menced in a very important era of his country's history, and
the great commotion which then agitated Mexico has not yet
subsided. The subjugation of Mexico, by COrtesJ was the most unjust
ftnd bloody conquest that marked the settlement Of this con
tinent by Europeans. At this period the rialives of thkt
country were in a state of civilization, far in advattbe bf, the
other aboriginal nations of America. The arts Were lii a high
state of advancement, and the civil government of tlie country
was conducted with success and moderation. Centuries' did
riot efface the traditions of Spanish outrages, tile cruelties arid
treachery So wantonly practised in thO overthrow of the Rlbtl--
tezumas; and it had constantly required the most austete
military government to keep the natives alid Creoles hi subor
dination. The mixed castes of Mexico and the original in*-
habitants have ever entertained tHe keenest hatred for the
Spaniard ; and their antipathies were increased, down to thO
time of the revolution, by the fact, that the offices dnd. emo
luments of governlneht were for the most part distributed
among the Europeans.
The success of the revolt of the British American colonies
against the hlother-governttient, on account of its usurpations',
and the birth and growth of the new republic of the United
States, had a great effect in strengthening and developing the
elements Of revolution, which existed to as great, or greater
extent iP the Spapish colooies of North Anierlca. Nevertheless
when it was; uhdetstood by the Mexicans; that the council of
Seville had declared wdf against France, thejr firml^ adhered
to the fortupes of the Spanish king, Ferdinand VIL, aRd re
fused to ackuowledge allegiance to JOseph Bonaparte. Itnlri-
gary was then viceroy of New Spain — a popular man with the
natives aud Creoles, but equally unpopular with the Spahiards.
The latter generally favoured allegiance to Joseph Bonaparte;
and, setting on foot a conspiracy, in conjunction With* the
French and Europeans generally; succeeded in disposing I tori-

294 APPENDIX.
gary and elevating a Spaniard by the name of Venegas in his
place, who, ip copsequeflce of his outrages, became excessively
odious to the friends of the former viceroy.
The regard wh ch receRt evepts had inspired apiORg the
populatiop towards Ferdipapd — the hatred of the Spaniards,
who had deserted him — the injustice done to Iturigary, and
the hateful conduct of Venegas, had all combined to prepare
the way for violence, and but a short time elapsed before con
spiracies were formed for the purpose of exterminatipg the
Spapiards. A geReral pisurrectiou was plapped, to take place
all over the coufltry at OHce, apd was ORly preveflted by acci-
deptal discovery.
About this time young Iturbide was in the confidepce of the
govemmept of Madrid, and held a command in his native pro
vince. He was applied to by Hidalgo, a Catholic priest of
the rich and powerful province of Guanaxuato, who was the
chief conspirator in a plan of revolution set on foot by him
self, to take the office of lieutenant general of the revolution
ists. The liberal and patrotic character of Iturbide, the in-
fluepce of his family, and the general confidence which his
military reputation would inspire, rendered it an object of the
highest importance to secure his co-operatiop. The plaps of
Hidalgo were listeped to by the yoppg officer, who satisfied
that there was no chance of success, and distrusting the
avowed object of the priest and his followers, declined join
ing in the movement. Hidalgo, thereupon, collected a band
of untrained and iguoraRt adventurers, and commenced his
march ; but, instead of making a judicious war upon the
Spaniards, or against the government, he plundered and
pillaged wherever he went. His career lasted but briefly, and
terminated in his death ; his example was left for imitation ;
and, for several years, similar outrages were constaRtly prac
tised by parties of adveflturers, who oply sought to plupder
apd devastate.
From 1810 to 1816, Iturbide held importapt military com-
mapds upder the viceroys, apd, during that interval, made
several successful attempts to disperse those roving parties of
robbers, which had frequently inflicted the most appalling and
ppmerited cruelties, and indulged in the most outrageous ex
cesses of carnage and robbery, under the name of revolution.
In 1816 he resigned his office in the army, having gained
repeated distinction in his military career. This step was
taken in consequence of the misrepresentations of several im-,
portant persons, to the govemmept, agaipst him ; apd, in or
der to enable a fair investigation iflto the truth of the charges.
No witpesses, however, could be produced to sustaiu them,

APPENDIX. 295
and the most important persons engaged in the prosecution
abandoned it, alleging that they had been deceived. In the
interval of his retirement, while tjuietly pursuing his domestic
affairs, apd attending to the management of his extensive and
valuable estates, repeated^demonstrations of respect and con
fidence were showered upon him, and the authorities of the
provinces and towns, and the officers of the army, united in
ap invitation to him, to accept the same office he had resigned.
The invitation, nevertheless, was declined, aRd Iturbide con
tinued in the peaceful avocations of a private citizen, who
was tired of the turmoil of contending factions, and the de
ceits of political life.
At this important crisis, when the political elements were
in commotion — the jealousies of the weak aroused against the
opulent and powerful — the apprehensions of the rich excited
for their personal safety — the country on the eve of a great
organic revolution, the result of which was uncertain, the
means unknown — whether the change should b6 effected
by violence and rapine and bloodshed, or by moderation and
peaceful compromise of opinion and preferences, no man knew ;
at this juncture all classes and all parties looked with con-
fideflce apd solicitude for the action of Iturbide. His military
reputation was justly higher than any of his countrymen.
The army was greatly attached to him. The Spaniards respect
ed his moderation, apd were grateful to him for more than
opce avertipg the horrors of insurrection in several large
districts of country. The natives and Creoles entertained the
greatest confidepce ip his patriotism, apd believed him ready
at the proper time, apd op the proper occasion, to strike Tot
his couutry's independence. The body politic was disordered,
and Iturbide was, by common concurrence of all classes*
looked upon as the man for the emergency. Applications
were made to him from several provinces to commence a re
volution — plans were proposed and information in reference
to the capacity of the differept sectiops for defepce and mili
tary movements, submitted, — the quotas of meu, arms, and
munitions of war the various departments would furnish, were
named ; and he became satisfied that the time had arrived for
consummating his long-cherished scheme of separating Mex
ico from the Spanish empire ; and, yielding to the desire of
his friends, immediately set about perfecting a plan for effect
ing this great object. At a subsequent period in his life
speaking of this particular crisis, Iturbide remarked, that he
saw new revolutions on the eve of breaking out, and his
country about to be drenched in blood ; that he was led to

298 APPENDIX.
believe he had the power to save her, aud he therefore "did
not hesitate to uudertake so sacred a duty.
The latter part of the year 1820 was devoted to this great
updertakipg, arid the whole epergies of his mind were beRt to
organizing apd perfectipg a plap for separating the vice-
royalty of Mexico from the crowp of Spaip. Disregardipg the
successful examples of other Ratioos in which reformatioHS
aRd revolutioRs had beep accopiplished ORly at the expepse of
aparchy aRd bloodshed apd civil war, he attempted the utter-
apce of a plap that should copciliate coutrarieties of opifliop,
overcome prejudices, and compromise all classes more or less
to its support, aud thus avoid the horrors of a servile insurr
rection and the calamities of domestic War.
A, few pionths only were sufficient for the accomplishment
of his labours, ahd on the 21st pf February ,^1821, he published
to the world his immortal plan for the separation pf Mexico
from the mother-goverpmept, ahd its erectiop into . an inde*
pendent empire. In this short period he had not only formed
the outlioes of his project, arid eplisted the various coutepdipg
factiops ip its support, but procured its ratification by most
of the departments of the nation. A, more interesting or satis
factory account of the motives that led to the adoption of the
sagacious and beneficent " plan of Iguala" canpot be givep,
than is found in Iturbide's own words, which are as follows : — •
" Ip tracing out this project, (says he,) my aim was to give
ipdepehdence to my country — because such was. the general
desire of the Americans ; a desire founded on natural feelings
and on pripciples of justice. It was, besides, the only means
by which the interests of the two nations could be secured. The
Spaniards would not allow themselves to be convinced that
their decline began with their acquisition of the colonies, while
the colonists were folly persuaded that the time of their eruan-
cipation had arrived."
The plan of Iguala speaks for itself; and, although there
were some radical errors ih its doctrines and guarantees, yet;
as a whole, it was wisely conceived for the accomplishment
of the great and legitimate object of its author — the promotion
of the ipterests apd happiness of the Mexican people. It was
as follows : PLAN OF IQUALA.
Ar* . 1. The Mexican nation is independent of the Spanish
nation, and of every other, even on its own continent.
Art. 2. Its religion shall be the Catholic, which all its in
habitants profess.

appendix; 297
Art. 3. They shall be united; without any distinction be
tween Americans and Europeans.
Art. 4. The government shall be a constitutional monarchy.
Art. 5. A junta shall be named, consisting of individuals
who epjoy the highest reputation ih the differept parties Which
have showp themselves.
Art. 6. This junta shall be under the presidency of his
excellency the Count del Venadito, the present Viceroy of
Mexico. Art. 7. It shall govern in the hame of the nation, according
to the laWs now in force, and its priflcipal business shall be
to convoke, according to such rules as it shall deem expe
dient, a Congress, for the formation of a constitution more
sUitable to the country. ...
Art. 8. His majesty Ferdinand VII. shall be invited to the
throne of the empire, and in case of his refusal, the Infantes
Don Carlos and Don Francisbo de Paula.
Art. 9. Should his majesty Ferdinand VII. and his august
brothers decline the invitation, the nation is at liberty to in
vite to the imperial throne any member of reigning families
whom it may select. , .
Art. 10. The formation of the constitution by the Congress,
and tho oath of the emperor to observe it, must precede his en
try into the country.
Art. 11. The distinction of castes is abolished, which Wad
made by the Spanish law, excluding them from the rights of
citizenship. All the inhabitants of the country are citizens
and equal, and the door of advancement is open to virtue
and merit.
Art. 12. An army shall be formed for the Support of reli
gion, independence, and union, guaranteeing these three prin
ciples, and therefore shall be called the army of the three gua
rantees. ..  ._.
Art. 13. It shall solemnly swear to defend the fundamental
bases of this plan.
Art. 14. It shall strictly observe the military ordinances
now in force. ,
Art. 15. There shall be no other promotions than those
that are due to seniority, or Which shall be nCCesSary to the
good of the service.
Art. 16. This army shall be considered as of the line.
Art. 17. The old partisans of independence who shall im
mediately adhere to this plan, shall be considered as indivi
duals of this army. . i
Art. 18. The patriots and peasants who shall adhere to it
hereafter, shall be considered as provincial militia riteR,
N 5

298 appendix.
Art. 19. The secular and regular priests shall be continued
in the state in which they now are.
Art. 20. All the public functionaries — civil, ecclesiastical,
political, and military, who adhere to the cause of independence,
shall be continued in their offices, without any distinction be
tween Americans and Europeans.
Art. 21. Those functionaries, of whatever degree and con
dition, who dissent from the cause of independence, shall be
divested of their offices, aod shall qpit toe territory of the em
pire, takiug with them their families afld their effects.
Art. 22. The military commafldapts shall regulate accord
ing to the general instructions in conformity with this plan,
which shall be transmitted to them.
Art. 23. No accused person shall be condemned capitally
by the military commandants. Those accused of treason
against the nation, which is the next greatest crime after that
of treason to the Divine Ruler, shall be conveyed to the for
tress of Barrabas, where they shall remain until the Congress
shall resolve on the punishment which ought to be inflicted on
them. Art. 24. It being indispensable to the country that this
plap should be carried iuto effect, masmuch as the welfare of
that couptry is its object, every ipdividpal of the army shall
maintain it to a sheddiog, if it be pecessary, of the last drop of
his blood.
Town of Iguala,
24th February, 1821.
The proffer of the crowp of the pew empire to the reigping
family of Spaip, was calculated to secure the approbatiop of
the Spauish loyalists, apd copciliate the royal family ; apd had
the latter copsulted their true interests, the digpity of the
Spaflish HatioH, apd the happipess of the Mexicap people, the
offer wopld pot have been rejected. The guarantee of the
Catholic, as the natioual religion, althongh ip the abstract im
proper, was pevertheless a wise provisiop ip this ipstaHce ; for
to have piade war upop the chprch, or even neglect its inter
ests, was to enlist an oppositiop that would have destroyed
the whole object of the measure. Apd while there was offered
to the Americaps the privilege of epactiflg their own laws, apd
participatipg ip all the bepefits of the goverpmept, there was
also guarapteed to the Spafliard a peaceful hopie, apd adequate
protection to person and property.
The greatest, and perhaps the only error (under the circum
stances) of the pew orgapizatiop, which foreshadowed cala
mitous results, consisted in the provision which abolished all

APPENDIX. 299
distinction of castes, and placed all individuals, whether
Americans, Spaniards, Africans, or Indians, on equal political
footing. It is true, this feature had the effect to conciliate the
prejudices and overcome the jealousies of the lower classes,
but could the same ends have been peacefully accomplished
without its adoption, many evils that have since resulted in
Mexico might have been averted. The half-civilized masses
in that country, unaccustomed to self-control and the reflec
tion necessary to the judicious exercise of the high attributes
of freemen, were entirely unprepared for the change, and, as a
natural consequence, their political liberty degenerated into
political licentiousness.
Here, again, the author takes the liberty of quoting the elo
quent language of Itorbide, in reference to the result of tho
plan of Iguala, and the consummation of his labours.
" The operation of putting the plan into execution, (says he,)
was crowned with the success which I had anticipated. Six
months were sufficient to untwist the entangled knot that had
bound the two worlds. Without blood-shed, without fire,
robbery, devastatiop, without a tear, my couptry was free,
and trapsformed from a colony into an empire."
Those Europeans who desired to remain in the country were
permitted to do so ; apd thoBe who held offices, and co
operated in the patriotic effort for ipdepepdepce, were per
mitted to retain them. After the organization of the pro
visional government, the most liberal and capable Spaniards
were elevated to the highest stations, and participated in all
the honours and advantages of the new order of things. Those
who preferred were permitted to leave the couptry, apd often
liberally aided in doipg so ; po violepce was exhibited towards
any who did not approve of the revolution, and their property
and persons were respected.
But one thing remained to be done, to complete the perfect
independence of the country, and establish the universal au
thority of the new government, which was the reduction of
the royal government at the capital, or its acquiescence in the
new organization. This step was hoflourably and peacefully
accomplished or the 24th of August, 1821, by the treaty of
Cordova, copcluded between Don Juan O'Donoju, Lieutenant
General of the armies of Spain, and Don Augustin de Itorbide,
as " First Chief of the Imperial Mexican army of the Three
Guarantees." Of the authority of the contracting parties to
make the treaty of Cordova, a single observation is only ne
cessary. Iturbide, invested with the commapd of the impe
rial army, was before the capital, and could easily have re
duced it ; but, in the alternative he pursued, acted in accord-

300 APPENDIX.
ance ^vith the .spptiment pf top . MexjcaR people, ,Apd although
Q'Dpnpju \yas pot invested with the, special powers. of enterr
iflg ipto any particular convention, yet he was authorized in
all cases to act in accordance with his judgment, for the in-r
terests of his sovereign; and, in tois instance, he pot oply
Conformed to the spntiqiepts of his commapd, apd most of the
royal , officers ip the, couptry, bpt tp the dictates of his owp
judgmeut of dutyt apd his determination, no longer to oppose
a revplptiop which had enlisted his sympathies, apd he be-
lievei to he right. He, knew it was in vain for hipi to cop-
tepd with Iturbidp, or his goyerpmept to oppose the reyolu-
tioR. The Spanish yoke was already thrown , off, and the
general consulted the highest interests, if pot the hopour of
his, sovereigu, whep he assepted to the plap of Iguala, and the
stipulatiops of the treaty. If, by this Rieaps, he did po,t gratify
the false pride of a family in whose haods he had placed the
crowp of the pew empire, if they chose to accept it, he at least
prevented toe iipprovidept expenditure of much blood aud
treasure ou both sides.
The treaty provided for the recogpitiou of the independepce
apd sovereignty of Mexico ; that the government should be
a limited constitutional monarchy, apd the throne occupied by
an Emperor, who should fix his court at the city of Mexico.
The third article, in accordance with the plan of Iguala, pro
vided for the invitation of Ferdinand VII. to the throne ; and,
in case of his refusal or denial, of one of his august brothers,
in the regular order of succession ; and, in case of the refusal
or denial of al} these respectively, that the national cortps of
the empire should designate the individual who should asceud
the thrope. By the sixth article, a " Povisiopal Junta of Go-
vernRiept" was to be appointed, "copiposed of pieri the most
eminent of the empire, for their virtues, their station, rank,
fortune, and hifluenoe, — piep marked out by the general opin
ion," whose number should be sufficiently large to insure wis
dom of council and safety pf aptiop. It was also agreed that
the Junta should elect its president, and appoint its regency,
consisting of three individuals, distinguished for their ability
and patriotism, who should govern in the name and on the
behalf qf the monarch, until the vacant throne should be filled.
The regency was, immediately on its installation, to convoke
the national cortes in the manner prescribed by the " Provi
sional Junta," and in accordance with the plan of Iguala.
These provisions embraced the principal features of the treaty
of Cordova; the other guarantees of the former plan were re
peated, and some provisons pf minor importance added. The
general Dop Juan O'Donoju, also agreed" to despatch two

APPENDIX. 301
commissioners, with a copy of the treaty, and his represeiitar
tions thereon, to the bourt of Spain, which was complied
with. ...' .
In, conformity with the stipulations of the. treaty; the Spa
nish forces capitulated on the 27th of September, and Iturbide
entered the city of Mexico. Op the same day he pomipated
the Junta of government, who were immediately installed;
and forthwith entered upon the discharge of their official du
ties. To fill this, body, men of the highest reputation were
selected from all parties — it being the only chance, under the
circumstances, of insuring concert of action, and obeying the
direction of public sentiment.
The junta had no sooner convened, howevef, than the aspect
was at once changed ; this body, filled with person^ aspiring
to station and power, who were ignorant of the science of
government, but each one of them professing peculiar views,
and ostentatiously presenting them, soon fell into disputes,
perverted the power with which they were clothed; and gave
great offence to the country. , j
There were men at the capital, some of whom meriibers of
the Junta, who, entertaining private views of emolument^ dis
liked Iturbide, op account of his general success ahd poput
larity, and Were not slow to enter upon intrigues to destroy
him. To this eud the prejudices of two opposite factious were
excited — the one constituting itself the republican, and the
other toe Bourbon party— united only in the single purpose of
opposing the measures of Iturbide. The former coalesced in
the opposition, because they knew that his objections to a re
public were insurmountable, as he had repeatedly expressed
them to the nation.
The Bourbonists, originally in favour of calling a Bourbon
to the throne of the empire, after the refusal of the Spanish
government to ratify the treaty of Cordova, and acknowledge
the independence of Mexico, of course could no longer enter
tain the hope of realizing their original plans, and were in fa
vour of returning to the allegiance of Spain.
At this period Iturbide wielded the power of the army; and
was far the most popular man in the country : and against
him, as the prominent leader in the new order of things, the
whole force of the two factions was bent.
The first- duty imposed on the Junta by the organic basis,
required that body to frame a proclamation (Convocatoria) for
the assembling of a Congress to form a constitutiou for the
monarchy, prescribing the manner of electing and the number
of representatives tp be sent by each department. The move
ments of the Junta were extremely tardy and unsatisfactory.

302 APPENDIX.
But after wasting a great deal of time a very defective convo-
catoria was presented ; the representation was unequal, and
calculated to give offence to some of the stronger departments,
for while a population of fifty thousand, perhaps, were given
an over large representation ; a district, containing twice the
number of inhabitants, and a much greater amount of wealth
and civilization, was only entitled to one half as many depu
ties as the former.
The elections that took place, in pursuance of this procla
mation, were the scenes of the most corrupt intrigues and vil
lainous influences of the factions opposed to Iturbide. The
members returned were composed, to a great extent, of pro
minent ipdividuals hostile to his plaps, apd others so ignorant
apd servile, as to be piade the ready tools of the leaders.
The first and principal duty of this copgress was to frame a
copstitutioR for the empire, aod provide pieaps for sustaining
the civil and military power of the government. Eight months
passed away and none of these objects were attained; the
coRstitutiou had pot beep touched — uo fipancial measures were
adopted, or likely to be ; the orgauizatiop of the judiciary was
peglected, the administration of justice had fallen into disre
pute, and civil anarchy existed throughout the country. The
time was wasted in empty declamation ; in making speeches
on subjects foreign to the objects for which they were assem
bled, in discussing what honours or pensions should be paid to
insprrectiopary chiefs ; what titles shopld be copferred op civil
apd ecclesiastical fupctioparies, apd a hppdred other subjects
of no graver momeflt. The incompetency and folly of the cop-.
gress repdered it the object of the cootempt of the people ; the
public press exposed its faults, aud ope of the deputies, Don
Loreozo de Zavalla, sioce Vice-Presidept of the Republic of
Texas, stood pp iR his place apd advocated its reform.
Ip the early part of 1822, the regepcy of govenipiept was
composed of five members ; the congress, in order to destroy
the influence of Iturbide, who was the president of the re
gency, and his friends in that body, unwarrantably deposed
three of the members, leaving one opposed to the president,
and consequently annulling his influence and action m the ex
ecutive capacity. The blow was intended for Iturbide, al
though the congress did not dare to make war directly upon,
or attempt to depose him, from a fear of his popularity and
influence with the army. The resolution, deposing the mem
bers of the regency, was not only a usurpation of power, pot
delegated to the legislature, but its adoptiou was Riost uu-
just aud precipitate. Without discussiop, the resolutioR was
passed at a single sitting, and carried into immediate execu-

APPENDIX. 303
Hon, notwithstanding it had been previously decreed by the
congress, that every proposition should be read three times, at
as many differeRt sittings, before it should be discussed and
passed upon. In connection with the resolution, it was also
proposed to divorce the executive authority and the command
of the army. But this proposition also aimed at Iturbide, and
was intended to compel him to relinquish either his seat in
the regency, or the command of the army, was lost only for
want of time.
Nearly two months had elapsed after the regents were de
posed ; the popular indignation against the coRgress was
aroused to its highest pitch ; anarchy, if not domestic revolu
tion, threatened in the interior, and the clamours of the army
were becoming daily more alarming. Every body distrusted
the congress, and the departments were urging Itorbide to
dissolve that body, if necessary, by force of arms. The people
saw that nothing could be expected from the congress, com
posed as it was of ambitious demagogues and factious men,
who seemed determined to subserve their own purposes, with
out regard to the fundamental basis already agreed upon ; in
total contempt of the expressed will of the nation, and at the
haiard of the independence of the country.
Stimulated by these circumstances, on the night of the 18th
of May, 1822, the people and the garrison of the capital, pro
claimed Itorbide the Emperor of Mexico. At the same ipstapt
as if by magic, the eptire capital was ip a blaze of light ; the
public square aud private edifices were maguificeptly illu
minated ; the buildings were decorated with banpers, afld the
halcoflies were filled with the most respectable inhabitants ;
every countenance seemed joyful, and the universal shout as
cended — "LoRg live Augustin the First!" The streets pre
sented a compact mass of human life ; the city garrison, the
officers of the army, the leading citizens of the metropolis, and
many distinguished men from different sections of the country,
thronged the vicinity of Iturbide's residence, and united in the
general acclamation. Not a murmur of disapprobation was
heard from any source ; indeed, the members of the congress,
apd pot all of those, were the oply ipdividuals at the capital
who did Rot rejoice ip the piovemeRt.
Although aware of his popularity, aud expecting the move
ment of the people, Iturbide declared to his friends his.de.ter-
mination to reject the proffered crown. But he was told by
those, " that the movement at the capital was the exponent
of the natioRal will ; apd, to refuse compliauce, would be to
turn the popular excitement against himself, aud to hazard
the ifldependence of the country j that anarchy threatened the

304 APPENDIX.
natiop ; the coiigr'ess seemed bept on hastepipg its destruction
aud po other alternative was left; that he had started the ball
of revolutiop; arid givep independence to the country; he was
the author of toe plan of Iguala, and had sighed the guaran
tees of the treaty of Cordova that provided the alternative,
now the only one left, which the people had adopted in pro
claiming him emperor, apd that to waver, or refuse to yield to
their, wishes, aud carry out the oply plap that could secure
the blessipgs of peace was to sacrifice his labours, sacrifice his
frieuds, apd desert the capse of independence."
Whether Iturbide yielded with reluctance or not, to these
solicitations of his friends, we have only his owP statement.
Most mep, uuder similar circumstances, however ambitious
for place or honour, would not be very likely to admit that
they sought the crown which was offered them, and to which
they had no hereditary title. There can be no dopbt that the
patiop regarded him as worthy of it, apd if apy Mexicap was
eptitled to it, from services reodered his country, it could not
with justice, have been bestowed upon any other. At any
rate, whatever may have been his scruples on the subject, they
were so far overcome that he spent the remainder of the night
of the 18th of May in quieting the people, and asking time for
reflection before his final determination should be announced.
On the following day the regency was convened, and a full
meeting present, the subject was presented to them and dis
cussed; and it Was unanimously determined that Iturbide
should, accede to the wishes of the people. The generals and
superior officers of the army assembled, and united iu the re
solution of the regency. The president of the congress, who
had received official intelligence of what hud transpired, im
mediately summoned an extraordinary sitting of the congress.
The regency and the convention of officers argued that it
would be impossible to recede from the steps already taken ;
than an emperor was to be chosen, and that Iturbide was the
man ; and, having already dedicated himself to the country,
they demanded his compliance with their wishes. According
ly, both these bodies drew up memorials, addressed to the
congress, requesting them to take the subject into considera
tion. These memorials were signed also by the president of
the congress, and presented to that body.
Whgn the deputies convened, the galleries and entrances
were crowded with spectators ; the place resounded with ap
plauses. In this important moment all was excitement, and
the calm of deliberation was prevented. A deputation was
immediately appointed to wait on Iturbide, and request his
presence ; the duty was executed, but Iturbide at first declined

APPENDIX. 305
to attend at the sitting, adding, that as "the copgiess/'were
about to treat of him, personally, his presence might be con
sidered as a restraint on the freedom of debate, and a clear and
frank expression of each individual opioion." The deputation,
however, with several general officers, returned to him, and
insisted on his compliance with the invitation of the congress.
He yielded to their persuasion, and while repairing, through
the immense throng in the street, to the hall in which the de
puties were sitting, the horses were removed from his carriage,
and the vehicle drawn by the people, to the doors of the place,
amidst the shouts -and vivas of the inhabitaPts J apd, on his
entrance, the acclamations were renewed with eijual en
thusiasm. ¦ . The resolution of the congress was immediately despatched
to all the departments, towhs> and garrisons, and without ex
ception met with the entire approbation of them all. This
was officially notified to the supreme government) with the
assurances, that the congress had, in that instance at least,
gratified toe desire of the nation, and that the departments
would have instructed their deputies to offer the crown to
Iturbide, but that they had swore to support the plan of
Iguala and treaty of Cordova, and they were not previously
aware that the stipulation, guaranteeing the crown to the
Bourbon family, had been rendered nugatory by the decree
of the court of Madrid, and the contingency occurred, by which
the Congress were permitted, and required to offer it to some
other individual.
- It will be proper here to state, that Brigadier Santa Anna,
then a Colonel of infantry at Vera Cruz, was one of. the first
officers of the provincial garrisons who congratulated Iturbide,
and in his dispatches to the latter, declared that he had him
self made arrangements to proclaim him emperor at Vera Cruz,
in case it had not been done at the city of Mexico. This fact
is only worthy of, remark, because, as subsequent events will
show, this individual was the first to raise the standard of re
volt against the government of the empire.
In confirmation of the vote by which Itorbide was elected
emperor on the 19th of May, the Congress, on the 22nd of June
following, resolved, without a dissenting voice, — there" being
one hundred and nine members present, — that the crown
should be hereditary in the family of Iturbide in lineal succes
sion; that his eldest son, as heir apparent, should be entitled
the. " Prince of the Empire," his other sons designated as
"Mexican i Princes;" his father the "Prince of the Union,", and
his sister the "Princess de Itorbide." On the same occasion,
the regulations for the Coronation were established, arid all

306 APPENDIX.
these resolutions adopted without the restraiot of the Em
peror's preseoce ; ip the absence of the military and the po
pulace : when the city was in perfect quiet ; without compul
sion or suggestion, but of their own accord and in perfect
unauimity. For some time after his accession to the throne, the country
enjoyed an uninterrupted repose ; the apprehensions of foreign
invaders had passed away ; the capital and the provinces
were quiet, and the discontents of the factions in the congress
seemed to have subsided. But little time elapsed, however,
before the latent embers of discord were again fanned into a
blaze; the congress repeated the scenes that preceded the
coronation ; clandestine meetings of its members, assembled
to concoct conspiracies to overthrow the government, were
detected ; reports were circulated by these cabals— with the
view to excite the fears of the timid republicans, and the
jealousies of the aspiring Europeans — to the effect that Itur
bide aimed at absolute power. The repeated charges of
the conspirators were circulated iu the interior ; but neither
the authorities nor the people believed them, and indeed dis
regarded them entirely, except to denounce the authors, and
trausmit to the capital the iRtelligeRce and proof of their
treason. Iturbide notified the congress officially, that certain of its
members were charged with conspiracy and treason, and that
body was requested to inquire into the facts. To this message
no attention was given, the public tranquillity was again
threatened ; the discontents of the people were fearfully mani
fested ; they regarded the congress with jealousy, and the
Emperor determined on ordering the arrest of the principal
deputies engaged in tlie conspiracy. This step has since been
condenuied by mapy persoRS, but was uudoubtedly a preroga
tive of the Spauish moRarch ; apd uptil it was abrogated by
the pew coRstitutiop of Mexico, was equally authoritative
there as in Spain.
On the 26th of August, the deputies accused of treason were
accordingly arrested, and the prima facia evidence of their
guilt, (sumaria,) which had been collected by order of the
council of State, placed ppop the ppblic records. The copgress
row became ifldigpapt apd refractory, and demanded that
the imprisoned deputies should be given up to them, for trial
by their compeers. Iturbide refused compliauce with this
demaud; because, as he alleged, the cougress yet contained
many other individuals suspected or charged with being parti
cipators in the criRies of which the arrested were accused, and
it had disregarded the accusations against the same persons

APPENDIX. 307
previously preferred in his message, and refused to institute
an investigation into their truth.
From the period of the arrest, np to the 30th of October, a
constant contention existed between the congress and the
Emperor. By this time the popular clamour was again
aroused against the former, and that body was threatened
with forcible dissolution. The provinces refused to grant any
further pay to their representatives, on the ground that they
did not discharge their duties. Several of them had repudiated
the plan of Iguala, and the treaty of Cordova, from their
placeB in the congressional palace, and were constafltly fo-
meiitipg disorder and discontent. The press and the political
writers were again inveighing against the congress, which
had become the contempt of the people. The position of
affairs throughout the country, the indifference and wrangling
of the deputies, demanded energetic action on the part of the
government, which itself must come into contempt, if it longer
permitted the vacillating and factious legislature to disgrace
the nation.
On the 30 th of October, the Emperor transmitted his des
patch to the President, informing him that the congress over
. ¦which he presided was dissolved ; and, without excitement or
violence of any kind, the session was thereupon terminated.
From all parts of the country the same congratulations fol
lowed this act of the Emperor that succeeded his accession to
the throne ; no dissatisfaction was exhibited ; but, on the
coptrary, official congratulations and confirmatiops of the act,
were received from the various departmepts.
Sapta Appa, who was ope of the strORgest adherepts of
Iturbide, aud the first to copgratulate him or his accessioR to
the throRe, held the station of commandant of the garrison
of Vera Cruz, under Echavari, who was captain general of the
province. Some jealousies and animosities sprang up between
these two individuals, in reference to their respective autho
rity, and Santa Anna attempted to procure the assassination
of Echavari. In this he was baffled, and representations of
the circumstance, with several other serious charges, were
made against him to the Emperor, by the former captain
geReral, the coRsulate, the lieutenant colonel of his own regi
ment, and many of the most respectable inhabitants of Vera
Cruz. At the same time Santa Anna visited Iturbide, at
Jalapa, to answer the charges ; the interview was unsatis
factory to the latter, as the proofs of his guilt greatly prepon
derated his defeRce, and in consequence he was deprived of
his command. Falling into a violent paroxysm of passion at
this result, he flew back to the garrison, and, by endorsing

308 APPENDIX.
the charges of the conspirators, who had attempted, and thus
far failed, to overthrow the imperial government, succeeded
in persuading the troops to join him, and raise the standard of
revolt. At the city of Vera Cruz there was greater opposition
to the new governRieRt than elsewhere, in consequence of the
numerous and wealthy Spanish residents of the place, and
hence the garrison were the more easily persuaded to revolt.
At the head of his rebel troops, Santa Anna advanced upon
the towns of Alvarado aRd Afltigua ; these surreudered, aRd
he riiade a rapid march to Jalapa, where he attacked the gar
rison, but was signally defeated, and compelled to retreat-
The two former towns again placed themselves under the
protectioR of the govemmept. The forces of the Emperor were
at this time very strong, and commanded by General Echa
vari and Brigadier Cortazar, who might have easily put down
the rebellion, and taken possession of Vera Cruz. But, owiug
to the want of celerity in their movements, Santa Anna and
his dispersed followers were eoabled to reach the fortress of
the city, which was def'epded by two hupdred mulattoes, under
command of Don Guadalupe Victoria. Troops, munitiops,
apd mopey, ifl great abundance, were furnished Echavari,
with orders to reduce the revolting garrison, and there was
no obstacle to his success. The officers at Vera Cruz, includ
ing Santa Anna, had become alarmed for their safety, and
were making arrangements to embark on board a vessel to
escape from the enemy. Echavari, however, delayed termi-
pating the rebellion, which a few days would have sufficed to
quell, with the superior forces under his compiapd : and,
indeed, his apathy induced the garrison to hold out uutil the
2nd of February, when the act of Casa Mate was presented to,
and accepted by both armies, which terminated the contest
— the opposing forces uniting together, as then alleged, with
no other object thap to procure the re-establishment of the
congress. The conspiracies set on foot by the factious deputies were
secretly fomented during the siege of Vera Cruz, the failure of
which gave additional confidence to the conspirators. On the
1st of February, nearly two thousaud troops had collected
with the insurgent chiefs, and held their head quarters at
Casa Mata. The Bourbonists and republicans had coalesced,
and were in open opposition to the government, and the mea
sures of the Emperor. At this place the convention of Casa
Mata was agreed upon by the insurgent army. It provided
that the congress should be reinstated, the provinces be per
mitted to return their " former deputies," with some few ex
ceptions ; that the person of his Majesty, the Emp'erOr, should

APPENDIX. 309
be respected, aB he was asserted to be in favour of uatioRal
represeutation, and that copies of the convention should be
forwarded to him. This act, agreed upon by two thousand
insurgents, dictating to the country who might, or who should
not, be elected to the congress ; an act which acknowledged
the rights and capacity of Iturbide as Emperor, and only pur
ported to provide for the re-establishment of the congress,
proved the overthrow of the imperial government.
As soon as the leaders at Vera Cruz had coalesced — Echa
vari turning traitor to the government — the combined forces
overrun the provinces of Vera Cruz aud Puebla. The Mar
quis de Vivauco, comuiapdapt of Puebla, also joioed ip the
movement ; and two of the most powerful provinces were
thus in open rebellion. The example influenced several others
and they also agreed to the act of Casa Mata. At this junc
ture the Emperor placed himself at the head of the government
forces, and marched out to meet the insurgents; and, on his
reaching their vicinity, commissioners from the two armies
met, and agreed upon a parley, until the national congress
should be convened, in accordance with the new convocatoria
framed by the " Instituent Junta," and that all differences be
tween them should be decided by that body. During the par
ley, emissaries were sent to all the departments by the conspi
rators, to persuade thorn to conform to the act of Casa Mata.
Iturbide, in accordance with the agreement entered into
with the commissioners, issued his proclamation for a new
congress, which was convened. But finding that he had been
deceived by the army, and deserted by some of his former
friends, whose individual ambition had led them to oppose him:
that the new congress was composed of the same individals
who were engaged in the insurrection, and that his longer
continuance in a position which so greatly excited the envy
and hostility of the ambitious aspirants who filled the con
gress, would be productive of no good to the country, or satis
faction to himself, he determined forthwith to abdicate the
throne, and ask permission of the congress to exile himself
from Blexico. Whether in this proposition, as has been
charged, the Emperor was actuated by fear, or by the fore
going suggestions, aud a desire to avoid the animosities and
strife his elevation had given rise to, must be decided by a
careful reference to the facts. His own statement is worthy
of regard, and will be read with interest. It is as follows.
" I surrendered my power (says the statement,) because I
was already free from the obligations which irresistibly com
pelled me to accept it. The country did not want my services
against foreign enemies, because at that time it had none. As

310 APPENDIX.
to her domestic foes, far from being useful ip resisting therrt,
my presepce might have proved rather prejudicial to her than
otherwise, because it might have been used as a pretext for
sayiug that war was made against piy ambitiop, apd it Plight
have furnished the parties a motive for prolonging the con
cealment of their political hypocrisy. I did not abdicate from
a sense of fear ; I know all my enemies, and what they are
able to do. With no more than eight hundred men, I under
took to overthrow the Spanish government in the northern
part of the continent, at a moment when it possessed all the
resources of a long established govenimeHt, the whole revenue
of the country, eleven European expeditionary regiments,
seven veteran regiments, and seventeen provincial regiments
of natives, which were considered equal to troops of the
line, and seventy or eighty thousand royalists, who had firmly
opposed the process of Hidalgo's plot. Had I been actuated
by fear, would 1 have exposed myself to the danger of assas
sination, as I did, by divesting myself of every means of de
fence ?
"Nor was I influenced in my resignation by an apprehension
that I had lost any thing in the good opinion of the people, or
in the affections of the soldiers. I well knew that at my call
the majority of them would join the brave men who were al
ready with me, and the few who might waver, would either
imitate their example, after the first action, or be defeated. I
had the greater reason to depend on the principal towns, be
cause they had themselves consulted me with respect to the
line of conduct which they ought to pursue under the circum
stances of the moment, and had declared that they would do
no piore thap obey my orders, which were, that they should
remain quiet, as tranquillity was the most conducive to their
interests us well as to my reputation. The memorials from
the towps will be fopnd in the ministry of state, and the cap
taincy-general of Blexico, together with my answers, which
were all in favour of peace and against bloodshed.
" My love for my couptry led me first to Iguala ; it iuduced
me to ascend the throne, and descend again from so dangerous
an elevation ; and 1 have not yet repented either of resigning
the sceptre, or having proceeded as I have done. I have left
the land of Piy birth after having obtained for it the greatest
of blessings, to remove to a distant country, where I and a large
family, delicately brought up, must exist as strangers, and
without any other resources thau those which I have already
mentioRed, together with a pension, upon which no man would
place much dependence, who knows what revolutions are,
and is acquainted with the state in which I left Blexico."

APPENDIX. 311
The new congress complied with the requests of the Em
peror, permitted him to abdicate the throne, and leave the
country ; and passed an act annulling the coronation, the acts
of his government, and several decrees of the former congress.
It also settled upon him during life a peusion of 85,000 dollars
per aRHum, provided that he should take up and coptiflue his
residence in some part of Italy, and upon his family, after his
death, unconditionally, the sum of 18,000 annually.
Demonstrations of affection and respect for the person and
position of Itorbide were manifested to so great a degree at
the capital, as to render it necessary to occupy the streets with
soldiers, and post artillery at the principal places ; and the
route of his escort to the coast was often intercepted by the
people in their eagerness to pay the last tokeRS of regard to
the man that they yet loved before all others. At Tacubaya,
when the Marquis de Vivauca addressed the troopB on the
subject of his departure, they shouted as vociferously as ever,
" Live Augustin the First !"
Iturbide remained in Italy but five months, having deter
mined to go to England ; where, learning that an attempt had
been made to establish a republican government in Blexico,
and that his country was again the theatre of domestic war,
he was persuaded to return aud offer his services to restore, if
possible, happiness aRd tranquillity to the Ration. In pursu
ance of this resolutioR, he sent several communications to tho
government offering his services, and embarked on board a
vessel with his family aRd a friend, Colonel Charles de Beneski,
ahd arrived off the bar of Soto la Marinu on the 1 2th of July,
1824. Here he was met by General Garza, the Governor of
Tamaulipas, who, pretending friendship for Iturbide, offered
his assistance in forwarding his views, but at the same time
advised him to surrender himself a prisoner to the coRgress of
Tamaulipas, and abide its disposition, assuring him that his
representations to that assembly would meet with favour.
In the absence of Iturbide the national congress had decreed,
that "in case he should attempt to land in the country in any
capacity whatever, he should be declared an outlaw," and the
authorities should proceed to punish him as such. He was not.
aware of the existence of this denunciation when he landed,
and unconsciously yielded to the treacherous advice of Garza;
and the congress of Tamaulipas, with the utmost precipita
tion, and without giving him a trial, or even a hearing, passed
sentence of death upon him, in pursuapceof its vindictive con
struction of tbe national decree.
The interval before the expiration of his sentence was spent
in performing the last duties of a Christian ; and when he was

312 APPENDIX.
brought out to be executed, he asked and obtaiped permission
to address the soldiers, Which he did in the followihg lan-
gpage : — " Mexicaps I ip this last momeot of piy life I recom-
mend to you the love of your couptry, aud the due observaflce
of our holy religion ; it is religion which will lead you to
glory. I die for having Uowp to your assistance, aud die
happy in expiring among you. I leave this world with honour,
and not as a traitor— this foul stigma shall not attach itself to
the fair fame of my descendants. No, it shall never be said
that I was a traitor I Preserve strict subordinatiop, apd be
obediept to your couimapders. By acting in conformity to
their mandates, you will obey those of your Creator. I do
not address you from any motives of vanity, for I am far from
harbouring them. From the bottom of my heart I forgive all my
enemies — really from the bottom of my heart." These were the
last words of the " Hero of Iguala," and the " Liberator of
Blexico." " With his own hands, (says a by-stander,) he ad
justed the bandage upon his eyes, knelt down, and receiving
two balls in his forehead, and one in Iris heart, fell dead."
Thus was ended the career of Don Augustin de Itorbide, the
greatest statesman, the best man, the purest patriot, and the
greatest benefactor of his country, of any of his cotemporaries
in Blexico. He fell by the treachery of his pretended friend,
Garza, and the unjust and ungrateful decision of the congress
of Tamaulipas.
The highly interesting family of this distinguished man,
consisting of Blrs. de Iturbide, five sons, and three daughters,
row reside in the city of Philadelphia, and are objects of the
highest regard to a great portion of the Blexican nation — a
natioR that row mourns the loss of its greatest bepefactor apd
patriot, apd too late discovers and laments the errors and
crimes of the factions which were instrumental in overthrow
ing his government.

FINIS.

James Clarke, Printer, Aberdeen.

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