YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

THE

CIVIL, ECCLESIASTICAL, LITERARY, CdMMERCIAL,

MISCELLANEOUS HISTORY

LEEDS, HALIFAX, HUDDERSFIELD, BRADFORD, WAKEFIELD,

DEWSBURY, OTLEY,

THE MANUFACTURING DISTRICT OF YORKSHIRE.

BY EDWARD PARSOISTS.

VOLUME I.

LEEDS :
PRINTED & PUBLISHED BY FREDERICK HOBSON, 50, BRIGGATE ;
AND SIMPKIN & MARSHALL, STATIONERS' HALL COURT,
LONDON.

INTRODUCTION.

However the imagination may delight to dwell among the
•snow-covered mountains, the stupendous rocks, the sunny vallies,
and the luxuriant plains of other climes, our native Britain
presents scenery infinitely more impressive and interesting, if not
so sublime and magnificent, and awakens associations in the mind
of the patriot, the philanthropist, and the Christian, far more
glowing and permanent than were ever excited by the contem
plation of the most renowned lands, whose beauties have inspired
the muse of the poet, and whose revolutions have occupied the
page of the historian. Its hills ascend to no vast elevation, its
rivers are comparatively diminutive, its vegetable productions
exhibit no tropical profusion ; the mighty banyan tree, the stately
palm, the fragrant spices, and the brilliant flowers of other regions
are wanting ; here are no Alps, nor Andes, nor Himalayas, to
lift their heads above the clouds, no volcanoes astonish by their
eruptions, no auriferous streams cast their treasures on its shores,
and no inestimable gems sparkle in its mines — but it exhibits a
verdure never burnt up by the scorching beams of the summer's
sun, nor destroyed by the iron influence of protracted frost ; it is
.variegated with every pleasing variety of aspect and of production;
it presents the richest abundance combined with every essential
character of softened beauty ; and, what is infinitely better, it is
replete with moral health and physical vigour, and with anima
ting indications of freedom, of genius, of knowledge, of principle,
and of religion.
These observations are particularly applicable to the district
whose history we have undertaken to describe. Nothing can be
more diversified than its surface. Situated upon the sloping
declivities of the mountain range, justly called by Dodsworth, the
English Apennine, " because the rain water which there falleth,
sheddeth from sea to sea," it generally presents an undulating
alternation of hill and valley, without any eminence which can
deserve the name of a mountain, or any extent of level which can
merit the appellation of a plain. Of romantic scenery, indeed, it

2 INTRODUCTION.
cannot boast; such scenery is only to be found where the mount.
tains frown in rugged grandeur, where the streams dash in
cascades amidst precipitous rocks, and where has been no extensive
intrusion of the artifical creations of man, — yet in this district, if
there is little of the grand and the romantic, there is every pos.
sible combination of the beautiful, the lively, and the pleasing.
Its principal features are constituted by the three great vallies of
the Wharf, the Aire, and the Calder, divided by irregular ridges
gradually diminishing in elevation as they proceed towards the
east, and themselves intersected by minor vallies, with their
corresponding streams of incalculable value to agriculture and
manufactures. The sides of these vallies are frequently beauti.
fully fringed with extensive woods ; their levels exhibit the most
luxuriant fertility ; the eminences by which they are bounded,
are moulded into the most graceful forms ; they are every where
enlivened with cheerful villas, the abodes of comfort, opulence,
and intelligence ; and prospects are occasionally unfolded, which
cannot be exceeded in any part of the kingdom, either for their
wonderful extent, the variety of objects they embrace, their associ
ation with events of historic importance, and the memorials they
afford of tribes and of nations which have long since descended
to the grave.
The prospect from the summit of Otley Cheven, looking
down into the valley of the Wharf — that from the vicinity of
Harewood, looking towards Wetherby — that from the Pasture
Hills near Armley, looking towards Kirkstall Abbey — that from
Horsforth, looking towards Apperley Bridge — that from Temple
Newsam, looking towards Castleford — that from Dewsbury Bank,
looking towards Mirfield and Hopton — that from Robert Town,
looking towards Kirklees Hall— that from Heath, looking down
into the valley of the Calder — and many others of a similar
description, combine all that is essential to the most beautiful land
scapes, considerable rivers, picturesque elevations, waving woods, .
fields verdant in pasture or covered with corn, and numerous
seats, many of them distinguished by imposing magnitude and
architectural magnificence, and placed in the centre of spaci
ous domains, upon which the arts of useful and ornamental
agriculture have been exhausted.
Perhaps there is no district in England which contains a
greater number of extensive villages, filled with an industrious
and generally speaking, a prosperous population. In these vil-

INTRODUCTION. 3
lages, indeed, in the occupations of the people, and in the appear
ance of the country, a very great difference is observable. If a
line be drawn from Otley to Leeds, and from Leeds to Wakefield,
it will be found, that to the west of the line, the population is
generally manufacturing, to the east it is generally agricultural
— to the west is seen the dense smoke of innumerable manufac
tories, to the east the atmosphere is unpolluted by the disagreable
contagion — to the west, with very few exceptions, the villages are
unsightly, dirty, crowded, irregular, and occupied by inhabitants
whose complexion and apparel denote the nature of the occupa
tion in which they are engaged : — to the east, the villages are
perfectly rural, some of them are strikingly beautiful, and are
happily distinguished by the total absence of those unpleasant
nuisances, which obtrude themselves upon the observation in the
others : — to the west, the land is generally occupied by persons
who do not pursue farming as an avocation, but regard it solely
as a matter of convenience, and the greatest proportion of the
land, especially in the neighbourhood of the towns, is occupied in
small portions by the inhabitants, either for the use of their fami
lies, or in subordination to manufacturing purposes ; but to the
east, agriculture is assiduously and successfully pursued as a pro
fession, and though there are few farms which in other counties
would be denominated large, there are many which have satisfac
tory claims to comparative importance and extent.
* While it is acknowledged without hesitation, that the manu
facturing portion of the district, is by no means desirable as a
place of residence for those who are altogether independent of
trade and its associations, and while it is also confessed that the
increase of its population and the extension of its commerce, have
done much to impair the general effect and beauty of the scenery,
yet it must be affirmed, that the affected refinement, or invincible
prejudice, which recoils from the sight of a factory, sickens at
the sound of a loom, and shudders at the concomitants of active
trading industry, is equally odious, disgraceful, and absurd. What
would be the condition, nay, what would be the appearance, of this
incalculably important district, if it were not for its manufactures,
for the wealth they have created and diffused, the support they
communicate to countless families, and the innumerable wants
they constantly supply ? It is true, indeed, that if these manu
factures were all annihilated, or if they had never been cultivated,
the sensitive feelings of the antiquary would not be horrified by

4 INTRODUCTION.
witnessing the mouldering remains of the ivy-covered abbey,
placed in strange juxta-position with the edifices of commerce ;
the tourist in search of the picturesque, would not be shocked by
the unwelcome intrusion of smoky habitations into the previously
secluded and solitary dell — the sound of the murmuring water
fall would not be heard in unison with the discordant " roar of
revolving wheels" — the finny tribes would not be banished from
the rivers, by the " deleterious and poisonous ingredients," which
are thrown into the stream — the animals of the chase would not
be driven from the research of their human destroyers, into less
populated and more propitious districts; and the "impressive
desolation" of the moor-lands, would not be interrupted and abo
lished, by the most unromantic system of inclosure and cultivation.
We feel but little sympathy in the distress and lamentations which
are excited and expressed upon such topics as these. How much
more interesting is the scene, when all the capabilities of nature
and contrivances of art, are elicited by active and ever progressive
ingenuity, where the material elements are seen reduced to the
dominion and rendered conducive to the interests of man, where
useful commodities are fabricated to supply the demands of the
most distant regions of the globe, and where innumerable demon
strations are afforded of the vigorous exercise of all the faculties
of the human body and the human mind, and of the devotion of
all the resources of every science to the momentous practical pur
poses of manufacturing perfection, of commercial greatness, and
national opulence !
Since this subject will be fully discussed in a subsequent
portion of this work, we only observe in this place, that had it
not been for these unsightly manufactories and the system by
which they have been produced and supported, had it not been'
for this trade so " disagreeable" in its external appendages, had
it not been for the creative industry of this vast population thus
devoted to pursuits upon which a spurious, a sickly, and a con
temptible refinement affects to look with disdain — those hills
would be covered with the bramble or the heather, which now
display their productive meadows and spread their golden corn
fields to the sun -instead of these abodes of comfort and opulence
distributed over the scene, would be found an occasional cottage,
beautiful it may be in prospect and romantic in situation, but
filled perhaps with rags, squalour, and pining poverty — and though
the stream might flow on with undiscoloured waters, and between

INTRODUCTION. 5
undisfigured banks, it would reflect no images of prosperity, and
carry no burdens of commerce, of wealth, or of science to the
ocean upon its waves. Manufactures may have defiled the
/appearance of the country, and changed the relative character of
the villages ; Hunslet is not to be compared with Harewood, nor
Stanningley with Chapeltown; but these manufactures have trans
formed heaths, deserts, quagmires, bogs, and scenes of desolation
into tracts of fertility and abundance, and they have increased the
beauty, as well as the richness of the agricultural district, by
stimulating, extending, and assisting the operations of those culti
vators of the soil, who would otherwise have found no markets
for their produce, and obtained no remuneration for their indus
try. In these observations we have exclusively confined ourselves
to the manufactures of the district upon the appearance of the
country, and here for the present we dismiss the topic.
The air of the district is unquestionably salubrious ; except
in the largest towns, and in some branches of manufactures, there
is no reason to believe that the average of health and life has di
minished within the last hundred years; the vapours which
emanate from the numerous steam engines have not produced
those disastrous effects which have been frequently ascribed to
their prevalence ; nor have the inhabitants been visited beyond
those of the other provinces of the kingdom with the ravages of
epidemic disease. The atmosphere of Leeds and perhaps of Brad
ford, from the number of factories and the abundance of coals, is
never to be found in a state of natural purity,* and the same obser
vation applies to the air of some of the villages. But these are
* Mr. Thackrah in his work on " The Effects of the Principal Arts, Trades,
and Professions, and of Civic States and Habits of Living, on Health and
Longevity, &c." a work which intitles the author to the appellation of a public
benefactor, says upon this subject, " I should suppose the centre of this town
(Leeds) to have an atmosphere as vitiated as that of the centre of London. —
The state of the atmosphere affects in a greater or less degree all the inhabi
tants.— I should think that not ten per cent, of the inhabitants of Leeds
enjoy full health." At the same time he asserts, " The lungs, however, suffer
much less from the air of towns than we should expect. Brouchial affections,
indeed, are common, but other acute diseases of the chest, as pleurisy and con
sumption of the lungs, are, I think, neither so frequent nor so severe as in the
agricultural districts. Cases of consumption also are not comparatively nu
merous, nor is their progress so rapid in smoky towns as in the purer air of
the country and the mountains. I speak of the general atmosphere of towns,
&c." p. 14, 15.

Q INTRODUCTION.
local circumstances which are accounted for by the operation of par
ticular causes, and which by no means affect the general atmosphe
ric character of the district. There is a perceptible difference in
its temperature. In the east, where the vallies expand into the
the great level of the Ouse, and the elevation of the ground
gradually declines, the temperature is considerably higher than
in the west, where the cold blasts and the frequent tempestuous
winds from the central chain of English mountains, keep the air
in a state of almost incessant agitation, which is indubitally favour
able to its general salubrity and purity.
Almost every description of soil is discoverable in this district,
from deep strong clay and rich loam, to the poorest peat and the
most unprofitable sand. While the vallies display exuberant
fertility, while the high cultivation of the vicinity of the towns
attests both the industry and the opulence of the inhabitants,
and while extensive tracts of excellent farming land are found in
other situations, a large proportion of the surface of the district
would never have been inclosed, on account of its almost hopeless
sterility, had it not been for the immense increase of the popu
lation, and the consequent demand for agricultural produce. If,
however, this district cannot boast of fertility as its uniform
characteristic, it contains the elements of inexhaustible wealth
and of indefinite extension of manufacture, in the vast quantity
of excellent coal, which is easily procured in almost all its terri
torial divisions, and without which, its other natural advantages
would have been altogether inadequate to the progress of its
commercial prosperity and the employment of its crowded inhabi
tants.* Besides the inestimable veins of coal, the district abounds
with valuable stone, some adapted merely for the composition of
roads, some for the slating and roofing of houses, some for the
paving and flagging of streets, some for the more dignified pur
poses of useful and ornamental architecture, and some for the
* See this subject discussed in Chapter IV. We purposely avoid a Geolo
gical Description of this district It is inconsistant with our object, and would
necessarily occupy too much of our space. We may be permitted to observe
that such a description, the result of accurate scientific observation, and pub
lished as a separate work, is a great desideratum. It may be remarked that
the Geological Descriptions of the West Riding which have recently been pub
lished, are for the most part copied from an excellent, though very brief
original article upon the subject, printed eleven years ago, in Baines's History,
Directory, and Gazetteer of the County of York.

INTRODUCTION. 7
massy and colossal edifices, intended to resist the effects of the
weather and the influence of running water, such as the towers
and spires of churches, the piers of bridges, the sides of locks,
and the walls of wharfs and docks. The Bramley Fall and the
Park Spring stone in particular, has long possessed a high and
a merited celebrity ; though easily worked when taken from the
quarry, it continually indurates by exposure to the air, and be
comes almost incorrodible by time ; and immense quantities of it
are conveyed down the river Aire, to be exported to London
and the most distant provinces of the kingdom.
It is unnecessary, and would be preposterous, to specify the
productions of the district to its own inhabitants, or to describe
its agricultural system to those who are actively engaged in
carrying it on. In the manufacturing portion, but little atten
tion is paid to scientific agriculture, but in the other part of
the district every improvement in the mode of cultivating the
soil is adopted and pursued which ingenuity can invent, or
industry accomplish, or capital apply. A greater quantity of
wheat than of any other grain is raised, oats are cultivated to a
very considerable extent, barley is less frequently grown, and
rye is not often seen. Peas and beans are not produced in any
large quantities, but the turnip husbandry generally prevails,
although, according to the testimony of those who are versed in
the subject, the cultivation of that valuable root is not commonly
attended to with the care which is devoted to it in some other
parts of the kingdom. Clover is sown much less in this district
than in any other part of the county. The flax, the rape, the
woad, and the teazles of the east, and the liquorice and other
peculiar vegetation of the south, are not comprehended in the
productions of the district. In the woods and the hedgerows, a
valuable supply of oak and ash timber is afforded ; but planting,
on account of the distant period at which remuneration is
obtained, is neither frequently adopted nor systematically pur
sued, upon an extensive scale. Few peculiarities are observable
in the animals of this division of Yorkshire. The horses, of which
scarcely any are bred for sale, are smaller than those of the North
and East Ridings, but they are hardy, active, spirited and capa
ble of enduring great fatigue ; the horned cattle have no distinctive
characteristics, the wants of the inhabitants are supplied in a
great measure from the herds and droves of Craven and the north;
and no observations are demanded by the breed of sheep, though

g INTRODUCTION
great attention has been occasionally devoted to the improvement
of their race both for slaughter and for wool. The animals of
the chace, though driven from the vicinity of the crowded towns
and populous villages, are still numerous in the comparatively -
solitary agricultural division of the district, and especially so in
some of the preserved and well wooded domains environing the
houses of the nobility and gentry. It is a curious fact that the
Mild animals of the forest were not extinct in this district until
a period long posterior to what is generally supposed ; satisfactory
proofs have been discovered of their existence at the commence
ment of the fourteenth century; it is stated that the last of the
destructive and formidable race of wild boars in this vicinity was
killed in a hunt by John of Gaunt, the Duke of Lancaster, and
one of the sons of Edward III. A public house recently built
on the new road from Leeds to Pontefract, and on the hill above
Oulton, called John o' Gaunt Inn, preserves the memorial of the
transaction. We now hasten to describe the rivers of the district ; and since
their numerous tributaries will be pointed out in their respective
localities in subsequent portions of these volumes, we confine our
attention in this introduction to the three principal streams. On
its northern front, our district is touched by the Wharf, which
rises in the hills above Oughtershaw; runs by Deepdale,
Buckden, Starbottom, Kettlewell, Conistone, Burnsall, Barden
Tower, Bolton Abbey, Ilkley, Otley, Harewood, Wetherby, Tad-.
caster, and joins the Ouse from York at Nun Appleton. Con
cerning the derivation of the name, and the character of the
stream, it will be sufficient to quote the description of old Camden.
" If any one should be disposed to think its name strained from
Guer, which signifies in British Rapid, he will find support in
the stream itself, which rushes along with great rapidity and rage,
dashing against innumerable numbers of stones, which it bears
before it to the astonishment of beholders, especially when swollen
by winter rains. In summer too it is very dangerous, as I found
to my cost in my first tour to these parts."* This derivation
of the name is confirmed by the mode in which it was anciently
spelt, for we find it written not only as Wharf, but Gwarfe.t
This river was venerated as a divinity by the Romans, no doubt
in accommodation to a well known practice among the ancient
* Camden, iii. 6.
f Harrison's Description of Britain ap. Hollinshed.

INTRODUCTION. , g
Britons, a large altar having been found on its banks dedicated by
a Roman officer to Verb-eia, the goddess nymph of the torrent.*
The Aire, or Are, which pervades the centre of the district,
rises in MalhamCove, about five miles and a half north east of
Settle ; it takes the name of Aire a little below Malham, at the
junction of Malham Tarn water and Gordale Beck ; it flows
by Gargrave and passes to Skipton, proceeds by Keighley and
Bingley to Leeds, forms a junction with the Calder at Castleford,
runs by Ferrybridge, Knottingley, Snaith, and Rawcliffe, and
joins the Ouse below Armin, three miles south west of Howden.
We extract the following account of this river, and of the deriva
tion of its name, from the writings of the great antiquary just
quoted.* *' The Aire, rising at the bottom of Pennigent Hill,
which lifts its head high among the western hills, sports imme
diately in so many meanders, as if it were doubtful whether to
proceed directly back to its source, or forward to the sea, so that
I crossed it seven times in half an hour in a straight line. It is
calm and gentle, and glides along as if it hardly moved at all,
from whence I imagine that it had its name, for we have already
observed that the Britons call a slow and gentle stream Ara,
whence the appellation of that slow river Arar in France had its
origin." Spencer, in his well known distich, has alluded to the
characteristics of both these rivers among others.
Still Are, swift Wherfe, with Oze the most of might,
High Swale, unquiet Nidd, and troublous Skell.
The Calder rises on the borders of Yorkshire and Lancashire,
between Whalley and Todmorden, flows by the latter place, pro
ceeds to Hebden Bridge, Sowerby Bridge, Elland, Brighouse,
Dewsbury, and Wakefield, and falls into the Aire at Castleford.
The name Calder is either derived from the British Calai-dwr, a
reedy water, or from another British term, Coldwr, a narrow
water.J The vast system of internal navigation to which the Aire and
Calder, more particularly, are rendered subservient, will be
described at length in the fourth chapter of the present work.
It will be seen by a reference to our plan, that our introduction
must necessarily be confined within far narrower limits than are
usual in works of a similar character and of corresponding
magnitude. The distinctive characteristics and peculiar dialect
* Hist. Manchest i. 193. f Gough's Camd. iii. 5. + Hist. Whall. i. 9.
C

10 INTRODUCTION.
of the inhabitants— the comparative population and the genel-al
and local statistics of the district — the prices which commodities
have born at different periods, and the ratio in which they have
been produced and consumed — the relative condition of the
operative, the mercantile, and the influential classes of the com
munity — the wonderful system of manufactures and commerce,
with the innumerable institutions which it has originated, and its
multiform bearings upon social happiness, morals, and religion-
all these, and many other interesting and truly momentous
subjects, instead of being briefly, and, in point of fact, rather
incidentally than directly considered in an introduction, will be
discussed, as far as our prescribed space will allow, in the body of
the work, together with those other topics which have been almost
universally, but certainly improperly, regarded as the exclusive
matters of topographical investigation.
The range of our work includes the principal part of the
Wapentake of Skyrack, a large proportion of that of Agbrigg and
Morley, and part of those of Osgoldcross and Barkstone Ash.
The district comprises the parish of Leeds ; the parish of Cal-
verley ; part of the parishes of Bradford, Guiseley, Otley, and
Harewood ; the parish of Addle ; the parish of Bardsey ; part of
the parish of Collingham ; the parish of Berwick in Elmete ; the
parish of Whitkirk ; part of the parishes of Kippax, Swillington,
Castleford, and Methley ; the parish of Rothwell ; the parish of
Batley ; the parish of Birstall ; and part of the parishes of
Wakefield, Dewsbury, and Sandal Magna.
The field is extensive — the materials are ample — the historic
incidents are numerous — but the responsibility of the writer is
great, and his undertaking is arduous. It is his intention first to
give the General History of the district from the earliest period
to the present times, and then to present the domestic history of
each of the subordinate divisions, commencing with the parish of
Leeds, then that of Calverley, then proceeding to each of the other
places in regular order. The Ecclesiastical History of the
district will then demand attention ; and under this head it is
the author's intention not to write as though the date of tomb
stones and the inscriptions of sepulchres were the principal
objects of attention, but to pourtray remarkable characters, and
to record distinguishing events, which have exercised a decisive
influence upon piety and morality. In the Literary History, an
immense variety of topics, of institutions, and of characters will

INTRODUCTION. 11
demand, and it is confidently asserted will repay, investigation.
Upon the Commercial History, however, the deepest attention
and the most assiduous labour will be bestowed. The manufac
turing system of the district is its most prominent feature, its
most remarkable characteristic ; and to compose its history without
especially directing to this particular the mind of the reader and
the diligence of the author, would be the extreme of culpable
negligence and absurdity. The History of Charities, Accounts of
Distinguished Families, Descriptions of the principal Domestic
Edifices, Miscellaneous Anecdotes, and Statistic Representations
will follow, and the work will be closed by observations on the
Present State of the District, and the Public Spirit, the Dialect,
and the Character of its Inhabitants.

BOOK I.-CIVIL HISTORY.

CHAPTER I.— GENERAL HISTORY.

§ 1. British and Roman History.
THE bbitons.
Of the forty nations who inhabited Britain at the time of the
Roman invasion, the most numerous and powerful was that of the
Brigantes, whose possessions were bounded by the Tyne on
the north and the Humber on the south, and who may therefore
be regarded as the aboriginal population of the district. The
Brigantes were far more barbarous than the southern Britons.
The latter, indeed, were a perfectly different race, the descendants
of the Goths, who, at a period long anterior to the Christian era,
had obtained possession of the northern coasts of Gaul, where
they received the name of Belgae, and who soon occupied the
southern counties of Britain, and drove the native inhabitants
into the interior regions. By their intercourse with the strangers
who resorted to their shores for the purpose of obtaining Tin, then
the most important article of British commerce, they had been
induced to adopt some foreign habits, and were furnished with
some foreign commodities. Their habitations resembled those of-
the Gauls, they were decently and comfortably clothed in garments
of their own manufacture, their assiduity and comparative skill
in agriculture enabled them to raise a larger quantity of corn than
they required for their own necessities, and they were accustomed
to preserve the superfluity in rude caverns or granaries which
they either discovered or constructed in the rocks. But the
interior and the northern tribes had made no such approaches to
civilization. To agriculture and manufactures they were total
strangers, their wealth consisted in their flocks and herds, milk and

14 BRITISH HISTORY.
flesh wore the principal articles of their food, and in their rude
vestments of skins they defied the inclemencies of the weather.
To the character and habits of these primordial inhabitants of
the district, various testimonies have been recorded by ancient
historians. These writers have described their indomitable
ferocity and intrepid bravery in battle — their hardy patience in
the endurance of hunger, cold, and fatigue — their abject supersti
tion, " worshipping " says Gildas, " diabolical monsters worse than
those of Egypt, some of which, of most deformed appearance, are
still to be seen, accompanied with every circumstance of their
original horror" — their custom of tattooing their skin with the
figures of animals — their skill in horsemanship, and their use of
chariots in their contests, like the ancient heroes of the Trojan
war — and their savage mode of life in their vast and inaccessible
forests, which then covered almost the whole of the country. It
appears that in distant times they were governed by kings, but
that at the period of the invasion, they were so distracted by the
conflicting parties and interests of different chiefs, that their total
want of unanimity and their bloody intestine feuds, rendered
them an easy prey to Roman discipline and power.
It is contended that Leeds, in the time of the ancient Britons,
was a place of considerable eminence and importance ; that in fact
it was one of the twenty eight cities mentioned by Nennius, which
had their origin from the Britons, and only their improvement
from the Romans.* That Leeds was the Caer Loid Coit, or cily
in the mood, of Nennius, seems more than probable. But what
were called British cities were undeserving of the pompous name.
"The towns of the Britons," says Caesar, "were inaccessible woods,
fortified by ditches and ramparts ;" thus " forests served them for
cities ; they cut down a number of trees to inclose a large circle,
within which they erected huts and stalls for their cattle, which
were not designed for continued use."t No great accession of
dignity then can accrue to Leeds, even were it demonstrated to
have been a British city. It consisted only of a rude fortification
of earth and trees, to preserve the herds from the destructive
ravages of predatory animals, and its savage human inmates from
* Nennius, an ancient British Historian, was Abbot of Bangor, and, from
his works, must have flourished in the ninth century. His remaining work here
alluded to, is entitled Historia Britonum, or Eulogium Britannia;, printed in
Gale's Hist. Brit. Script. Oxon 1691. See Thoresby's Ducat Leod. Pref. ix.
f Caes. Bell. Gall. v. 21 Strab. iv.

roman History. 15
the sudden assaults of their fellow barbarians ; it might in a few
hours be overturned by the tempest, or consumed by the flames; in
a few years its traces would totally disappear, and its site would
remain without any thing to distinguish it from the surrounding
wilds of the interminable forest.
No memorials of the ancient British inhabitants now remain
in this part of the country, with the exception of a few names of
places and rivers. On the hill in the vicinity of Horsforth and
Rawden, which still retains its British appellation of Billinge, was
found fifty one years since, a Torques or British chain of pure
gold, " perfectly plain, and consisting of two rods not quite cylin
drical, but growing thicker towards the extremities, and twisted
together."* Its intrinsic value was eighteen pounds sterling, and
it was claimed by the lord of the manor. This relic may be
regarded as one among the many proofs which might be adduced
to shew, that the primeval inhabitants of this district, with all their
barbarism, were not destitute of some degree of mechanical art.
But their mode of working metals was most probably introduced
only about the time of the Roman invasion, and the enthusiasm
of antiquarianism itself can scarcely ascribe to an earlier period,
the existence of golden ornaments, and silver or brazen coins.t
THE ROMANS.
More than a century elapsed from the first invasion of Britain
by the Romans, before the final subjugation of the Brigantes was
achieved. The intrepid though desultory valour of the Britons,
and the civil wars which agitated the empire, retarded the progress
of the conquerors ; and it was not until the reign of Vespasian,
that the country to the north of the Humber was reduced under
their dominion. To the desperate resistance and invincible
bravery of the Brigantes in their contest with the Romans, various
interesting testimonies may be adduced. In the reign of Domi-
tian they interrupted the pro-praetor Ostorius in the full career of
victory ; in the dirge sung at the funeral procession of the
Emperor Claudius, " the azure armed Brigantes" were deemed
worthy of distinct mention ; and the pen of Tacitus has magnified
the glory of their subduction. J Petilius Cerealis was the military & r>, 75,
* Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete, p 211, 212.
f Whit. Hist, of Manchester, b. i, t. ix, § i.
J Tacit. Vit. Agric. c. xviii. Camden's Brit. Introd. p. 40.

1Q ROMAN HISTORY.
commander who reduced the Brigantes to the condition of subjects,
and the imperial authority was completely established among the
valiant barbarians by the power and policy of Agricola. A com
plete change was rapidly effected in the manners and character of
the vanquished people. The language, the customs, and the
civilization of Rome were speedily introduced and adopted ; the
independent spirit of the nation evaporated and disappeared ; and
England became a valuable, a submissive, and a peaceable province
of the empire. This astonishing revolution has been described in
the following terms by the greatest of Roman historians. " They
who a little while before, disdained the language, now affected
the eloquence of Rome ; this produced an esteem for our dress,
and the toga came into general use ; by degrees they adopted our
vicious indulgences, porticoes, baths, and splendid tables — this
among those uninformed people was called cultivation, whereas in
fact it was only an appendage of slavery."*
The condition of the conquered Brigantes and of the Britons
in genera], under the despotism of the Romans, was at first
extremely calamitous and deplorable. " The yoke," says Camden,
in the quaint but expressive language of his age, " was first imposed
upon Britain by garrisons, who always kept the inhabitants in
awe, levying taxes and tributes on their estates, for the public
sale of which they were forced to have publicans, i. e. harpies and
leeches who sucked their blood— and they raised contributions
even in the names of the dead. Nor were they (the Britons)
allowed the exercise of their own laws, but magistrates were sent
over from Rome to administer justice by commission and with
severity. The praetor held a yearly court, and determined greater
causes, promulgating his haughty decisions from a lofty tribunal,
surrounded with lictors, threatening the people's backs with rods
and their necks with axes, and every year compelling them to
receive a new master. Not contented with this, they (the
Romans) fomented quarrels among them, and showed peculiar
indulgence to some, to make them their instruments to enslave
others.t The Roman government in Britain was vested in a Prretor,
who possessed the whole administrative, judicial, and military
power; a Quaestor, or Procurator, arranged the affairs of revenue
and taxation ; and a numerous army of legionaries and auxiliaries
* Tacit, ab. sup. f Gough's Camden, 1, xlvi.

ROMAN HISTORY. 17
secured the obedience of the people, and protected the country
from foreign invasion. Of the provinces into which Roman Britain
was divided, Maxima Cessariensis was the name imposed upon that
included between the Mersey and the Humber on the south, and
the Tyne and the Eden on the north, and the eastern and western
seas. Of this province, therefore, our district formed a part. In
the reign of Constantine, both the form of government and the
territorial divisions were changed. Britain was placed under the
jurisdiction of the Prefect of Gaul ; his deputy resided at York,
and was called the Vicar of Britain ; his subordinates were the
Consulars of Valentia and Maxima, and the Presidents of Flavia,
Britannia Prima, and the Britannia Secunda. The superin
tendence of the army was committed to three Dukes ; the first
commanded from the northern frontier to the Humber; the
second, with the title of Count of the Saxon Shore, had the com
mand of the troops on the coast from the Humber to Land's
End ; and the third commanded the other garrisons in the inte
rior. The Roman Towns or Posts were divided into four classes
— the Colonies, the habitations of the veterans who were
rewarded with the lands of the conquered nations; of these
there were nine in Britain, but not one of them was seated in
Yorkshire — the Municipia, were the next in importance ; their
inhabitants possessed the title of Roman citizens, and exercised
the privilege of enacting their own laws and choosing their own
magistrates ; of these there were only two in the whole island, at
Verulam and York. The Latian Cities were the third in order,
and their inhabitants had the right of choosing their annual
magistrates, who on their resignation of their office claimed and
enjoyed the freedom of Rome ; ten towns possesed this dignity, of
which Cambodunum, or Slack near Huddersfield, was the only
one in the West Riding of this county. The last were the
Stipendiary Towns, whose inhabitants, unlike those of the former,
were not exempt from the payment of the imperial tribute, and
which therefore ranked the lowest in dignity. Of the latter
there were several in Yorkshire.
Although the History of the district now under review, has no
connexion with the most stupendous monuments of Roman policy
and industry, the mighty fortifications or walls which were erected
on the frontiers of the province and stretched from sea to sea, to
defend the more fertile districts of the south from the desolating
incursions of the fierce and necessitous savages of Caledonia, it
D

18 ROMAN HISTORY.
yet involves a reference to a great number of interesting civil
and military remains, which must now be rapidly described to
the reader.
The Roman Roads first claim attention. From the Golden
Pillar which stood in the Forum of Rome, on which were inscribed
the distances of the great cities of Italy and the empire, and which
from these two circumstances was denominated Milliarium An.
re-urn, the Roman roads proceeded to the most distant frontiers
of the vast dominions of the Caesars, "intersecting the immensity
of their empire, from the borders of Persia to the Orcades, from
the Tanais to the Nile, and opening a free communication through
all the regions of the civilized world."* Four of these great
roads traversed Britain, Watling-street, Hermen-street, the
Fosse, and Icknild-street.t Besides these main roads, there
were a great many vicinal branches, and others which crossed
the principal ways at nearly right angles. The cross roads were
media of communication between the grand ways, and their line
was generally made as short as possible to save both trouble and
expense. The construction of the vicinal branches and cross
roads, was neither so strong nor so durable, so effective nor so
magnificent, as that of the great Viae Stratae, and for this reason
they have been generally ruined and lost.J
The Roman roads through the district within ten miles of
Leeds, which can still occasionally be traced with considerable
accuracy were, 1. the road from Danum (Doncaster) through
what is called Pontefract Park, to Legeolium, or Lagecium (Cas
tleford) to Calcaria (Tadcaster) and thence to Eboracum (York).
2. The road from Calcaria, through Cambodunum (Slack) to
Mancunium (Manchester), traversed the centre of Leeds in a line
a little to the east of Briggate, and its line is traceable in the
neighbourhood of Morley and Gildersome. The road from Calca
ria to Mancunium, after Cambodunum was abandoned, passed, as
we shall presently see, through Cleckheaton, where the remains
of a Roman town have been discovered. 3. A road from Castle-
* Eustace's Class. Tour, ii, 182.
f According to Horseley, Watling-street proceeded from Richborough, in
Kent, through London to Chester, thence to York and thence to Carlisle.
Hermen-street, from London to Lincoln and Wintringham  the Fosse,
from Bath to Lincoln — and Icknild-street from Caister in Norfolk, through
Colchester, to London. — Horseley's Britannia Romana, p. 317.
X Horseley ubi Supra.

ROMAN HISTORY. 19
ford, ran through Addle or Adel, towards Olicana (Ilkley.) Of
these roads the first was undoubtedly one of the Viae Stratae, and
is supposed by some to have been a continuation of Hermen-
street;* the second may have been Watling-street in its line
from Chester York; and the third, though merely a vicinal way,
must, from the character of the settlements it united, have been
of considerable importance-t That these lines of road should still
be traceable after the lapse of more than fourteen centuries, is by
no means wonderful, when we consider the consummate skill with
which they were constructed, and the durability of the materials of
which they were composed. Generally raised to a considerable
elevation above the adjacent ground, they were not strictly speak
ing paved, but flagged, and were often composed of vast blocks
of stone, neither hewn nor shaped by art, but fitted together in
their original form. When hewn stones were used, they were
cut into masses of two, of three, or more feet square, and were
placed together without any cement, yet so closely connected, as
to appear rather a continued rock than an artificial combination,
and to have resisted both the influence of time and the friction of
the enormous loads which have passed over them, in a manner
altogether inconceivable.^
Among the Roman Stations§ in this district the most impor
tant was undoubtedly Legeolium or Lagecium, which occupied
the site of the modern Castleford. Of this place Leland says,
" one shewed me there a garth by the church yard, where many
strange things of foundation have been found, and he said that
there had been a castle, but it was rather some manor place." || It
was in the direct line of march from Calcaria to Mancunium ;
and from this central station the Roman soldiers proceeded to
occupy the country between the Aire and the Wharf. The
» The learned Stukeley expressly calls this road the Hermen-street. Iter
Boreal, p. 76.
f The word Street as indicative of a Roman Road (from Stratum) is still
in use in this-district. The Street near Morley, Gildersome-street, and Street-
-lane and Street-houses on the moors near Shadwell.
+ Eustace ii, 182. Thoresby's Ducat. 159. Horseley ubi supra.
& The peculiar situation of all the Roman stations in this district deserves
observation; they were all placed on the southern slope of a hill or bank.
This observation applies only to their regular stations. Of their costra astiva,
or summer camps, few traces oan be discovered.
|| Leland i, 46. Gough's Cam. iii, 46.

20 ROMAN HISTORY.
place where the Roman fort stood is a little above the waterfall,
and the stones are still left, though the milldam lays them too deep
under the water for distinct observation. From the fort the road
passed up the bank on the east side of the church, and forward in
a right line through the field. A field south of the church was
long called the Castle Garth, and was indubitably part of the
site of the town or cit}", the Castrum having been stationed on
the ground now occupied by the church, which was probably
in part built out of its ruins. The line of the ditch that sur.
rounded it can still be traced. The position of this station at the
confluence of the Aire and Calder was equally convenient and
commanding ; the luxuriant fertility of the beautiful country
surrounding it, insured a plentiful supply of provisions; and there
is every reason to believe, that the settlement was distinguished
by extent, population, and magnificence. It is remarked by Dr.
Whitaker* as a curious circumstance, that while immense num
bers of Roman coins have been found at this place, not " a single
altar nor even a sepulchral inscription has been discovered."t
Proceeding northwest from Castleford, we discern the traces
of the Roman Road from Legeolium to Olicana, on the moor near
Whitchurch ; a little further on, the name of Street-lane, and
the indications of the ground, point out the same Via Vicinalis;
at Hawcaster Rig near Chapeltown, a Castrum is denoted by
the name of place ; and the Tunnel Shaw Hill, a remarkable
eminence overlooking a considerable tract of country, was justly
concluded by Thoresby to have been a station for the Roman
Exploratores, or Speculatores.J At Addle innumerable indica
tions of a Roman station, probably connecting Legeolium with
Olicana, have been found. The Castrum of this place, called in
the Doomsday Survey § Burgduru, and probably, if not certainly
in Roman times Buhgodunum, was on the hill north of Addle ;
and when the neigbouring common was thrown into cultivation,
and the ground was consequently turned up, numerous and in
controvertible traces of a town were perceived on the east side of
* Whitaker Loidis and Elmete' p. 262.
f Of the Roman altars, coins, &c. which have been found in this district,
we give no specific description. Such a description would interest only the
antiquary, and would be useless and tedious to the general reader. We have
indeed no room for such a description. J Ducat, p. 138.
§ Doomsday Book by Buwdwen, 85, Antiq. in Ducat. 106, Camden's
Brit by Gough, iii, 44.

ROMAN HISTORY. 21
the Castrum. The remains of the town were first discovered by
a farmer, who found his progress in ploughing retarded by masses
of stone, which proved upon examination to have been the foun
dation of houses ; the line of a street was soon distinctly traced,
and numerous vestiges of other streets and buildings have since
been disclosed. From the abundant fragments of statues, pillars,
fluted glass, and inscriptions, from the three altars, the querns
and other antique articles, which were subsequently obtained from
the ruins, this place must at one time have been very extensive,
and must have possessed considerable consequence. A curious
fact is recorded by Thoresby concerning one of these remnants of
antiquity, which strikingly displays the prevalence of abject
superstition amor g the inhabitants of this part of the country, so
late as the close of the seventeenth century. " There was dug
up in stone," in lively style that excellent writer relates, " the
full proportion of a Roman officer, with a large inscription, both
of which perished by the worse than brutish ignorance and covet-
ousness of the labourers, who in a superstitious conceit, bound
wythys or wreaths of straw about the poor knight, and burnt him
in hopes of finding (I know not by what magical apparition in the
smoke) some hid treasure, and after, in anger at their disappoint
ment, broke him in pieces; of which only the head is now remain
ing."* It has been supposed by the style of some of the inscrip
tions, that this town or city flourished in the age of the Emperor
Severus. That there was a Roman station at Leeds, on the road from
Calcaria to Cambodunum, is unquestionable. On Wallflat near
Quarry Hill, a name in its derivation certainly referring to a
Roman fortification,? the outline of a Castrum was formerly dis
tinctly observable, but every trace of it is now completely oblite
rated by the great alterations which have been made in the
appearance of the ground, and the numerous buildings which have
been erected on its site. The fact that Leeds was a Roman settle
ment, has been confirmed by other circumstances. In 1745,
between Wallflat and the principal street of the town, a Roman
urn was found containing a British celt ; and in digging a cellar,
- Ducat. 159.
+ The Roman word Vallum is retained in this name Wallflat The Latins
formerly pronounced the consonant V as W. And the Saxon adjunct, by its
signification, refers to a plot of ground devoted to the purposes of war.
Ducat 104.

22

ROMAN HISTORY.

iii what a few years ago was called the Back of the Shambles, now
a part of Briggate, an ancient pavement strongly cemented was
discovered. The conjecture of the learned continuator of Thoresby,
that there was a Roman Trajectus nearly on the site of the pre
sent bridge at Leeds,* has, since the publication of his valuable
work, been proved to be well founded. As some workmen in con
structing a new basin or dock, were excavating a plot of ground
in Dock-street, on the banks of the Aire, and at some distance east.
wards of the bridge, they not only discovered appearances which in
duced the conclusion that the course of the river was formerly a
little to the south of its present bed, but they found part of a
Roman ford, composed of a substance known only to that people,
wonderfully hard and compact, and calculated to resist the destruc
tive action of water for a long series of ages. Further observations
demonstrated that this ford crossed the river pretty nearly in a
line with the east corner of the new corn warehouses belonging to
the Aire and Calder Company, and from thence the road probably
proceeded to the south, in a right line by the front of the theatre,
and the palisading of Salem Chapel. t
The ruins of a Roman town were detected some years since
at Cleckheaton ; these remains, though of a character suffi
ciently decisive, do not merit a specific description in this brief
record ; the town itself may be safely considered as one of the
stations on the great road from Calcaria to Mancunium.
At Lingwell Gate, near Wakefield, it seems highly probable
that the Romans had a mint for the casting of the coin required by
MaiTjj 31> the payment of the soldiers. Twelve years ago a great number of
clay moulds were turned up by a ploughman, in which the coin had
been cast, and four crucibles in which the metal had been melted.
Similar antiquities have occasionally been found on the same site
during the space of a hundred years. The most important remains
in this vicinity have, however, been discovered at a place called
Wakefield Outwood, in the township of Stanley. In 1822 a piece
of Roman pottery was disclosed in digging up a field, filled with
an immense quantity of copper coins of Constantine the Great, of
* Loidis and Elmete p. 88.
f At the same time were found three large oak trees, decayed and as black
as charcoal, and one quite sound at the heart. The men found also evident
traces of a goit, and large quantities of piles or stakes were discovered on each
side of the course of the water, inducing the opinion stated in the text that
the river formerly flowed in this direction.

ROMAN HISTORY. 23
his sons Constans, Constantius, and Crispus, and of Licinius and
Maxentius. This circumstance, combined with the facts, that
scattered coins have. often been found at the same spot, and that a
sunken military road has been discovered in the neighbourhood,
appear decisive in proving that a considerable Roman station,
perhaps connecting Danum with Cambodunum, formerly existed
at this place.
The traces of Roman Roads, and the remains of Roman cities
with which this district has been thus demonstrated to abound,
are by no means to be solely considered as the objects of antiqua
rian curiosity and interest, but as indications of the general
character and manners of the wonderful people by whom those
roads were constructed, and those cities were reared. They fur
nish impressive memorials of the ruthless ambition and territorial
cupidity of the Romans, in conquering the countries whose inhabi
tants had sufficient patriotism and courage to resist their unprin
cipled encroachments; they testify to Roman obstinacy in retaining,
and to Roman policy in colonizing, the regions which Roman valour
had acquired — and they shew that the Romans, in whatever cir
cumstances placed, and in whatever provinces settled, never lost
their military character, never abandoned their militaryhabits, and
maintained, as they had established, their government, at the point
of the sword. What were these towns and stations of which we
have been writing, but so many colonies of soldiers, and fortified
posts, the strong holds of military despotism ? And for what pur
pose did they construct these magnificent roads, whose shattered
fragments still excite the astonishment of the observer, but to pro
vide facilities for military communication, and to enable their mer
cenary legionaries to rivet the fetters of slavery, to stifle opposition
to their will, and to crush rebellion in its bud? A celebrated
writer and a profound admirer of the character and policy of the
Romans, has exclaimed on adverting to tlieir works and roads —
" These are monuments which no other nation has left behind —
monuments not of taste and art only, but of wisdom and benevo
lence, which claim not merely our admiration but our gratitude, '
and rank their authors among the best benefactors of mankind."*
We add in contradiction to these splendid assertions, that as far
as Britain is concerned, they are monuments of injustice, of
tyranny, and of cruelty. At what expense, and by what agency
were these works accomplished in our district, whose mouldering
* Eustace's Class. Tour. iii. 154.

24 ROMAN HISTORY.
and grass grown remains conduct the imagination to scenes and to
nations long since passed away ? Let Tacitus answer the question.
That historian declares,* that " the Britons complained that the
Romans wore out their bodies and hands in fortifying woods and
marshes, accompanying their blows with insults." The fact is,
that whatever the superstructure may have been, the foundations
of Roman power in Britain were " cemented with tears and with
blood;" the wretched natives were made the instruments of
erecting their own dungeon in the dwelling place of their masters;
and many a victim was sacrificed, and many a generation was
destroyed, before despotism had finished its sanguinary work, and
power had completed what tyranny had begun.
It further appears by the fragments which have been discovered
in this district, that the Romans incorporated into their mythology
the deities of the ancient Brigantes, as though there were still
some empty niches in their Pantheon, and as though even at this
advanced period of their history, they had not idols enough of their
own. One of their altars, obtained near Addle, has been ascribed
to Brigantia, and the tutelar deity or deities of the same British
people, have been found commemorated in other remains. Perhaps
in this case, policy combined with superstition. The Romans
might have been desirous of conciliating the idolatrous prejudices
of the nations they subdued, and thus of buttressing the fabric of
their despotism. In this instance, their conduct resembled that
of some of the papal propogandists in the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries, who endeavoured to obtain the suffrages of their heathen
auditors in favour of what they were pleased to designate
Christianity, by the incorporation of some of the popular super
stitions with the theological and ritual system which they advocated
and proclaimed.
It is not necessary to dwell upon the probable condition of
this district under the Romans. Whatever may have been the
tyranny and injustice of their proceedings to the aboriginal inha
bitants immediately after the conquest of the island, it is certain
that they endeavoured by all possible means to increase the pro
ductiveness of the province, and to render it a most valuable
integral part of their empire.f From the numerous remains of
* Tacit. Vit. Agrie. c. 19.
f The endeavours of the Romans to accomplish this object were crowned
with signal success. One of their orators in a panegyric addressed to Con
stantius, thus apostrophizes Britain. " O fortunate Britain !  Nature justly

ROMAN HISTORY. 25
Roman towns and Roman roads which this district contains, it
may be reasonably concluded that its population must have been
very considerable ; it no doubt participated in the general pros
perity of the island from the age of Severus to that of Julian
the Apostate ; that the natural resources of the country were
carefully cultivated, is evident from the immense quantities
of corn which were exported to supply the necessities of the
continental provinces ; nor did the usurpations of aspiring chief
tains, who attempted amidst the convulsions of the empire to
establish an independent sovereignty in Britain, involve any of
the desolating calamities which are inseparable from civil war.
This district also must have derived no inconsiderable advantages
from its propinquity to York, which was honoured by the especial
patronage and occasional residence of some of the Emperors,
which was the great centre of their power, and the principal
emporium, of their opulence.*
But upon the decline of the Roman empire, the scene was
awfully reversed. The ferocious hordes of the Scots aud Picts
extended their ravages over the whole country ; and though they
were repeatedly driven back beyond the wall to their wild forests
and bleak mountains, yet when the Roman soldiers were with
drawn, and when the flower of the British youth were removed
to defend the continental provinces of the empire, the barbarians
repassed the ineffectual fortifications of the north, and speedily
transformed a fruitful province into a desolate wilderness. Wil
liam of Malmesbury thus pathetically delineated the calamities of
his country. " After the tyrants had left none but half barbarians
in the country, and none but debauched wretches in the cities,
Britain, bereft of all the defence of youthful vigour, devoid of all
the cultivation of the arts, was long exposed to the fury of the
neighbouring nations. The Scots and Picts presently repeating
bestowed upon thee all the advantages of air and soil — with thee neither the
cold of winter nor the heat of summer is excessive — in thee are produced such
plentiful harvests as to serve the purposes both of Ceres and Bacchus — thy
woods harbour no wild beasts, thy soil no noxious serpents. Innumerable are
thy herds and flocks, with distended udders and loaded fleeces, &c." And in
another panegyric at an earlier period, Britain is extolled as " so fruitful in
corn, so well supplied with pasture, so rich in mines, so profitable for revenues,
so furnished with harbours, and of so great an extent" Cam. Brit. In. xi.
Drake's Hist, and Antiq. of York. 46.
* Drake's Hist and Antiq. of York, 17, 18, 68, et alter, freq.
E

26 SAXON HISTORY.
their inroads, numbers of people were slaughtered, towns burnt,
cities rased, and almost the whole country was wasted with fire
and sword. The islanders thrown into the utmost perplexity,
thinking any measure safer than coming to a battle, part of them
seeking security in flight, betook themselves to the mountains;
part of them buried their treasures (great quantities of which are
discovered in this age) and made the best of their way to Rome
to implore assistance." The miseries of hostile aggression were
aggravated by intestine anarchy. In every part of * the country
petty chieftains exercised an ephemeral authority without indi
vidual power or general union ; and letting alone the fury of the
Caledonian invaders, depopulation, ignorance, and barbarism must
have speedily followed in the train of those incessant internal
conflicts, which almost every district witnessed. The reader will
form some conception of this wretched condition of the country,
and of the share which this district must have realized, in the
general depression, when he is informed that no less than three
phantoms of states or kingdoms were erected in Deira and Ber.
nicia alone.*
» Carte's Hist. Eng. i. 188. Turner's Hist of the Anglo Saxons, i. 211,212.
Bernicia was a name given to that part of the Roman province north of the
Tyne, and Deira to that part of it between the Tyne and the Humber. The
name Deira was afterwards limited to the district which now forms the East
Riding of Yorkshire.

SECTION II. SAXON HISTORY.

The Saxons filled the cup of British misery to the brim.
These terrible and invincible barbarians, whose prowess and fury
have been described by a contemporary Christian bishop,* whose
fearful ravages have been recorded by a pagan historian,t and
whose formidable valour has been celebrated by a Roman emperor, J
became the cruel oppressors of the people they professed to assist ;
and the Angles, one of their most active and victorious tribes,
have permanently imposed their name upon the fairest, the most
extensive, and the most valuable portion of the island. With the
general transactions of these invaders and conquerors, this work
has no connexion ; the district, however, which forms the subject
of its investigations, was the scene of one of the most important
and interesting events in their annals — an event which merits a
particular description.
jElla, an Anglian chieftain, at the head of a band of hardy
and resolute followers, obtained possession of Deira, to which A. D. 560.
Bernicia was afterwards added, and the kingdom constituted by
this union, received the general appellation of Northumbria.
Edwin, the son of iElla, was driven from his paternal dominions
by Edilfrid his brother in law, and found a refuge at the court of
Redwald King of East Anglia, who determined to restore the
exile to his throne. He succeeded ; Edwin resumed his sceptre,
and one of his royal residences was placed at Osmundthorp, the
remains of which will shortly be described. Edwin was the first
Christian monarch of Northumbria ; he was the most magnificent
and renowned prince of his age ; on all public occasions, the Tufa,
or Saxon emblem of sovereignty over the whole island, was carried
before him with great solemnity; and such was the vigour of his ad
ministration, and so effective his system of police, that, according
to Bede, " in his days a woman with a babe at her breast, might
have travelled through his dominions without suffering an insult."
This great monarch was defeated and killed at Hatfield near A- D- 633-
* Sidonius. f Ammianus Marcellinus. J Julian the Apostate.

28 SAXON HISTORY.
Doncaster, by Penda king of Mercia, a ruthless pagan barbarian,
the terror of the country and the age, who had imbrued his hands
in the blood of three Saxon princes. Osric and Eanfrid the
successors of Edwin were slain by their enemies soon after their
accession ; and Oswald, who followed them on the throne, and
whose reign is celebrated as the epoch of the final establishment
of Christianity among the Northumbrians, like Edwin fell before
the sword of Penda.
The inveterate hatred which this sanguinary warrior cherished
against the Northumbrians, was rendered still more relentless and
malignant by an event which occurred in the reign of Oswio, or
Oswy, the brother and successor of Oswald. Peada, the son of Pen
da, on a visit to the Northumbrian court, had contracted a vehement
affection for the daughter of Oswio; and by her influence had been
induced to abandon the senseless idolatries of his ancestors, and
to embrace Christianity. Penda concealed his vindictive ani
mosity until he was fully prepared to exact a terrible revenge;
at the age of eighty he led his veteran Mercians into Northumbria,
with the diabolical resolution of exterminating the whole popula
tion, without any distinction of age, of rank, or of sex. Oswio
found his offers of submission and tribute rejected with disdain ;
he assembled his army ; he advanced to meet his infuriated
enemy ; and the night before the contest, he solemnly vowed, that
if he were rendered victorious by the blessing of heaven, he would
devote his infant daughter Elfleda to the celibacy of a religious,
A. D. 655. or rather of a conventual, life. The battle was fought on Win-
moor (Winwaedfield) near Seacroft; Penda was totally defeated;
the hoary barbarian with many of his vassal princes was slain ;
and according to the testimony of Bede, who was born within
twenty years after the event, more of the Mercians were drowned,
as they fled, in the river Winwaed,* then overflowing its banks,
than had fallen by the swords of the Northumbrians. " Thus,"
says the historian, " the awful decree of Providence was executed;
the vaunting dethroner of kings with thirty commanders perished
before an enemy whose greatest strength they had subdued, and
whose present feebleness they had despised." The memory of
* In spite of Dr. Whitaker's scepticism, the river Winwaed appears to have
been the Aire, to the banks of which the fugitives were pursued by the
victors. The Went, which he would identify with the Winwaed, is an insig
nificant brook, rather than a river, and could not have caused the destruction
spoken of by Bede.

SAXON HISTORY. 29
this decisive victory was long preserved among the Saxons in one
of their proverbs, and it was said, "in Winwaed's stream was
revenged the death of Anna, the deaths of Sigebert and Egeric,
of Edwin and Oswald." Oswio, according to the superstitious
spirit of the times, fulfilled his vow by committing his daughter to
the care of St. Hilda abbess at Hartlepool, and afterwards at
Whitby.* This battle of Winwaedfield, thus gained by Oswy,
Bede says, " was equally advantageous to both nations, for the
conqueror delivered his own people from the ravages of the pagans,
and converted the Mercians to the Christian faith." t
The condition of this district under the later Northumbrian
monarchs, must have been truly deplorable. The history of
these phantoms of royalty is stained with crime and blood,
and the whole country was a scene of confusion and carnage.
Sanguinary revolutions, treasons, massacres, and murders, suc
ceeded each other with a rapidity altogether unparalleled in
the annals of the world. Fourteen kings in the space of one hun
dred years swayed the Northumbrian sceptre; seven of them
were slain ; six were driven into exile, and only one of them died
in the peaceable possession of the throne. At length the Northum- A. D. 828,
brians acknowledged the supremacy of Egbert, and that monarch
is generally accounted the first Saxon sovereign of England.
Forty years after the acknowledgment of Egbert, this dis
trict was overwhelmed by a new tide of calamity. The Sea Kings,
as they were called, issuing with their intrepid barbarians from
the coasts of Scandinavia, the islands of the Baltic, and the penin
sula of Jutland, had long been the scourge and the terror of the
north. "Without territorial property, without any towns or
visible nation, with no wealth but their ships, with no force but
their crews, and with no hope but from their swords, the Sea
Kings swarmed upon the boisterous ocean, visited like the fiends
of vengeance every district they could approach, and maintained
a fearful empire on that element whose impartial terrors seem to
mock the attempt of converting it into kingdoms." These monarchs
of the tempest and the billow, were not however the only pirates
who, at this dismal period in the history of Europe, covered the
ocean ; every Dane or Scandinavian of importance equipped ships,
* Bede Sax. An. iii, 24. Turner's Hist, of the Anglo Saxons, i, 295. Lin-
gard, i, J03. Thoresby's Ducat 148. Whitaker's Loid. and Elmete iii, 3.
Gough's Camden, iii, 45. f Bede apud Camb. iii, 5.

30 SAXON HISTORY.
and roamed the sea to acquire property by force; and piracy was
accounted the most honourable occupation, the best harvest of
wealth, and was consecrated to public emulation by the examples
of the most illustrious of the dead and of the living. Towards
the close of the eighth century, these Danes or Northmen began
to infest the coasts of Northumbria ; and by plundering and
A. D. 794. burning the monastery of Landisfarn or Holy Island, they excited
general alarm. But it was not until seventy years had elapsed
from this demonstration of their fury, that they extended their
incursions to the district now under review, and finally achieved
the subjugation of Yorkshire." To describe the disgraceful occa
sion of the introduction of their armies into this part of the
country, and minutely to detail their progress to permanent
conquest and settlement, are departments of historic narrative
which do not belong to the present work. It must be sufficient
to state, that Northumbria had revolted from Ethelred king of
England ; that it was divided between two factions and two
kings, Osbert and Ella, who were inflamed with the most deadly
animosity, and sought with rancorous malignity to accomplish
each other's destruction. Osbert had shamefully insulted the
wife of Bruern, a powerful Saxon Earl, and by the forcible
gratification of a licentious passion, had introduced misery and
disgrace into his family ; Bruern invited the Danes to be the
ministers of his vengeance ; gladly they obeyed the summons;
Hinguar and Hubba, two formidable chieftains, whose father
Lodbroch had been slain in a descent upon the English coast,
animated with the hope of plunder and the desire of revenge,
assembled their followers; arrived before the city of York;
A. D. 867. vanquished and killed Osbert ; took, sacked, and destroyed the
metropolis of Northumbria, upon whose helpless inhabitants they
inflicted the most shocking brutalities of cruelty and lust; and
by the defeat and death of Ella, were enabled to extend their
conquests without opposition from the Tyne to the Humber.
Tha{ they had a permanent settlement in the neighbourhood of
Leeds is evident from the remains of a Danish fortification at
Giant's Hill near Armley, and similar indications in other places,
demonstrate that the whole of the district was occupied by their
troops. It appears that they intermarried with the Saxon inha
bitants, that they speedily became naturalized in the country,
and that their savage warriors in the course of a few years were
* Turner's Hist, of Aug. Sax. ii, 40.

SAXON HISTORY. 31
amalgamated with the conquered population. The subjection
of the Northumbrian Danes to the great Alfred, was rather
nominal than real; their strength was increased by the arrival
of successive reinforcements of their countrymen; and it required
all the efforts of Athelstan, one of the most powerful and politic
of the Saxon monarchs, and all the influence of one of the most
splendid victories recorded in English History,* to extort from
the factious barbarians the reluctant acknowledgment of his su
premacy. In the reign of Edmund, the successor of Athelstan,
they were again in arms ; and we find two Danish monarchs in
Northumbria, Anlaff, king of Deira, and Reginald, king of Bernicia.
Edgar, however, signalized his reign by the subjugation of the
province ; he degraded it from the rank of a kingdom to that of
an earldom ; he abolished the division of the country into Deira a. D. 952.
and Bernicia, and distributed its territories into Eurewickscire,
Richmundescire, Lancastrescire, Coplande (Durham), Westmeri-
londe, Northumbrelonde, and Cumbrelonde.t But the North
umbrian Danes, though apparently subject to the Saxons, were
still formidable ; Edgar to secure their submission and conciliate
their regard, allowed them to enact their own laws ; and when
in the reign of the cowardly, cruel, and contemptible Ethelred,~a
general massacre of their whole nation was ordered to be perpe
trated on the festival of St. Brice, they were found to be too Nov. 13,
numerous in the northern provinces, and too completely incor-
porated with the whole population, to be destroyed.
Since the events which took place from the reign of Ethelred
to the Conquest, however they may have influenced the general
condition of the kingdom, have no particular reference to this
district, we shall proceed to give a rapid description of the Saxon
Antiquities which it contains, and which are as numerous, as
interesting, and as distinct, as any other part of England, within
similar limits, can present to the investigation of the Historian.
At Berwick in Elmbtb, are the remains of an immense
Saxon fortification, which was probably one of the most extensive
* Gained at Brunanburg, or Bromford, in the East Riding, when Con-
stantine king of Scotland, and five petty kings of Ireland and Wales, the allies
of the Northumbrian Danes, were slain with many thousands of their men ;
and Anlaff the Danish chieftain or prince, was compelled to seek his safety in
flight. Great difference of opinion has prevailed as to the situation of the
place where this victory was gained. Vide Turner ii. 30.
f Turner's Aug. Sax. iii. 118. Drake's York. 85.

32 SAXON HISTORY.
and formidable in the kingdom. Camden informs us, that in his
day, these remains " were said to have been anciently a royal vill
of the Northumbrian kings, which appears by the ruins to
have been surrounded by walls." The reasoning by which Dr.
Whitaker proves, that these are the remains, not of a vast
granary of the Northumbrian kings, but of a royal residence itself,
is highly satisfactory. This vast and truly wonderful fortification
includes an area of thirteen acres ; its circumference is nearly half
a mile; and it consists of an irregular ellipse, with a keep
separated from the body of the place by a ditch at one of the
extremities. The mount of the keep is called Hall Tower Hill,
probably from the fact that a manor house was erected upon it in
a subsequent age. In the name which is still given to this forti
fication, Wendel Hill, the learned antiquary just quoted, thinks
that he has discovered the name of Edwin,* the greatest of the
Northumbrian kings, who as we have already seen was defeated
and killed by Penda and the Mercians. It appears probable to
the writer of this work, that this great fortification, after the
battle which decided the fate of Edwin, was taken by the ruthless
invaders, that it was captured after a desperate struggle, and
that it was never afterwards occupied. That a most sanguinary
contest took place on the spot, is evinced by a large quantity of
human bones found some years since on the outside of the trench ;
but no particulars can be gleaned from history, sufficiently
decisive to identify the event with any fact recorded in Saxon
annals. At Osmundthorp were formerly the fragments of very exten
sive Saxon erections. If Thoresby was mistaken in supposing
that the fortification at Berwick inclosed a mere royal Northum
brian granary, + so Camden seems to have been mistaken in
assigning to the same place (for so his words implyj) the dignity
of the Villa Regia of Bede. This honour may be safely concluded
to belong to Osmundthorp. Upon some painted glass upon one of
* " The letter d is merely obtruded by a vicious pronunciation, and Hill
is a modern addition made after the last original syllable of the word, by being
melted down into the mass, ceased to be descriptive. Wenhill therefore
remains. But by what likely process is Edwinhill to be obtained from
Wenhill ? By the same precisely, which in a similar instance, abbreviated
from the beginning of the word, Ovinsford in the isle of Ely to its modern
name Wensford." Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete, p. 152.
f Thoresby Ducat. 233. + Camden ut sup.

SAXON HISTORY. 33
the windows of the Old Hall, which was preserved when that
edifice was demolished, was a representation of Edwin King of
Northumberland, with a crown, a sword, and a shield. Upon
the shield were exhibited the arms of the kingdom of East Anglia,
by the assistance of whose monarch and troops, as we have related
above, Edwin was restored from the condition of an exile to the
possession of his crown. Although this painting is not earlier
than the time of Henry VII., it proves that at that period it was
believed most confidently that this was the actual site of Edwin's
residence.* The fragments of extensive works which continued
to the time of Charles I.; the pavements which have been turned up
by the farmers; and the great trenches which were filled when the
late hall was erected, combine to confirm this opinion. The
attempt of Thoresby to identify the name of this place, formerly
written Ossenthorp (in the Doomsday book it is Ossethorp) with
Oswin the third king in order from Edwin, is unworthy of
notice. At Gipton, Thoresby discovered the traces of a Saxon fortifi
cation " the out-trench whereof was 18 feet broad, the first camp
about 100 feet long and 66 broad, the second 165 square — both
were surrounded by a deep trench or rampire. The out camp
was about 18 poles long and 12 broad, and at a little distance was
a small outwork about four poles and a half square." t Of these
works the writer has been unable to find any remains, and he
concludes that since the time of Thoresby, they have completely
disappeared. » Whitaker arrives at the same conclusion by another ingenious argument
He says, Aug. 20, 1774, a gold coin of Justinian weighing 21 grains was found
at this place. Now as it is yet a moot point, whether the Saxons had at that
period any gold coins at a)l, and the quantity of that metal imported from
abroad must have been extremely small, the fact of discovering a coin of
Justinian at a place already reputed a royal palace of that very period, will
not operate merely as the discovery of a guinea (before guineas became as
rare as aurei of the Greek Emperors) proving, that is no fact, and strengthen
ing no probability, but will add considerable weight to an opinion already
supported by much external evidence. Whit. p. 138. The above extract
is one of the most striking instances which can be found, of the amusing
manner in which antiquarian enthusiasm can bolster up a favourite theory
by the most insignificant circumstances. It must have required a great
power of association, to connect the discovery of a single gold coin with the
existence of a royal treasury, f Ducat. 112.
F

34 SAXON HISTORY.
At Baedsey is another earthwork or remains of a castle
evidently Saxon, from whose founder it is probable that the
village derived its name. The form of this fortification is rather
peculiar; the north east side of the outward bulwark forms nearly
a right line, while an irregular semicircle incloses the remainder
Of the interior. An extensive inner work, which corresponds in
form with the exterior, has a remarkable indentation on each of
its longitudinal sides, the object of which it is scarcely possible to
conjecture. The Saxon remains at Dewsbury are particularly interesting,
That Dewsbury was the centre of a vast Saxon parish extending
to the borders of Lancashire; that it was the scene of the energetic
and successful labours of Paulinus, the apostle of the Northum.
brians; are facts which will be illustrated in our Book on
Ecclesiastical History. As an attestation of the latter circumstance,
Camden mentions an ancient cross, which had been in existence
before his time, but which appears either to have been lost or
destroyed when he composed his celebrated work. His words
are " I am informed that here was a cross, with this inscrip.
tion, 'Paulinus hie prsedicavit et celebravit,'* " Paulinus here
preached, and administered the ordinances." Some unknown
individual, desirous of perpetuating for Dewsbury the honours
thus attributed to it by Camden, had a cross constructed according
to his description, and placed upon it the inscription he has
recorded. This cross was destroyed about twenty-one years ago.
The Saxon antiquities now remaining at Dewsbury, consist of two
stones, discovered when the external walls of the church were
taken down in 1766. Upon these relics, several figures are sculp
tured ; the most remarkable exhibits the Saviour in the act of
bestowing his benediction. Part of a tomb also remains, the
highest part or lid of which is shaped exactly like the roof of a
house, with tiles regularly laid over each other, the side is
adorned with waving lines, and the end with the figure of a
cross. At Hertshead-cum-Clifton in the same parish, is the base
of a Saxon cross, four feet eight inches high, and two feet three
at the top. It is wrought in the usual style with knots and scrolls,
and has a cavity at the summit for the insertion of a shaft.
It is scarcely necessary to observe that these fragments of
royal residences and vast fortifications, afford no decisive testimo-
* Gough's Camden, iii. 5.

SAXON HISTORY. 35
nies to the manners, to the character, or to the social condition of
the Saxons. That their agriculture was of the rudest description,
that immense tracts of valuable land were under their adminis
tration, abandoned to savage unproductiveness, that their -houses
were generally speaking miserable hovels, and that the worst
institutions of the feudal system flourished amongst them in full
luxuriance, will be repeatedly demonstrated in the subsequent
chapters of this work. To only one feature of their national
character, do the remains of their works in this district testify —
their sanguinary attachment to military contests. Their monu
ments in this vicinity are all memorials of war ; and the observer
cannot look upon their immense mounds and mighty fortifications
without mentally referring to scenes of danger, turmoil, misery,
and slaughter. Whatever honour may be attached to the names
of some of their monarchs, whatever may have been the wisdom
of some of their institutions, whatever may have been the repu
tation of some of their virtues, they were essentially a people
factious because they were ignorant, vicious because they were
superstitious, vindictive because they were oppressed, and cruel
because they were uncivilized. History, it is true, may extol
the patriotism of Alfred, the policy of Athelstan, the power of
Edgar, the valour of Edmund, and the piety of Edward; but
after all, there is little in the Saxon times to be admired,
less to be imitated, but much to be deplored. The gloomy
ages of misery and devastation which rolled over this district
during the Saxon domination, were gilded with but infrequent
gleams of prosperity and peace, which only rendered the pre
ceding and the subsequent darkness the deeper and more dismal.

36

SECTION III.
HISTORY IN THE MIDDLE AGES.

The atrocious proceedings of William the Conqueror in the
north of England, have attached indelible infamy to his name,
and demonstrate that he was one of the most sanguinary and
detestable tyrants that ever excited the execration of mankind,
At first, indeed, he treated his new subjects with moderation and
kindness : and appeared desirous, by allaying their animosity arid
gaining their affections, of permanently establishing the founda
tions of his throne. While he was absent, however, in Normandy,
his followers exasperated the natives beyond all forbearance, by
their vexatious exactions, their cruelties, and their crimes; and the
English determined to re-assert their national independence, and
to break the yoke which the haughty foreigners had imposed.
The spirit of resistance was particularly energetic in Yorkshire
and the counties of the north ; the warlike inhabitants rose in
arms ; with the great Earls Morcar and Edwin at their head,
they expelled the garrison of York, and killed the governor and
many of his retainers ; and assisted by a Danish army which
landed in the Humber, they gained a great victory over the
Normans, who left three thousand of their warriors dead upon
A.D. 1069. the field. William determined to exact a terrible revenge ; he
advanced against York, and directed the line of his march through
the district now under review. At Castleford he was detained
three weeks by an inundation of the Aire; when the waters had
subsided, and a ford had been discovered, the Conqueror proceed
ed to York; after a siege of six months the city was taken; its
buildings, though more magnificent and extensive than those of
London, were levelled with the ground; and the garrison, with
most of the inhabitants, was put to the sword. William was not
content with this act of implacable vengeance. With a barbarity
to which there is no parallel in history, and which human lan
guage cannot describe, he dispersed his armed retainers over the

THE MIDDLE AGES. 37
country in small divisions, and commanded them to spare neither
man nor beast, and to destroy the houses, the corn, the imple
ments of husbandry, and whatever was essential to the support of
life. His orders were executed ; one hundred thousand men,
women, and children were slain ; and one of the most fertile
regions in Britain was transformed into a desolate wilderness.
Although the ravages of the Normans were directed principally
to the north, so that a century afterwards not a patch of culti
vated ground could be perceived between York and Durham, yet
there is satisfactory reason to conclude, that this district felt the
disastrous effects of their inhumanity. This revolting fact is
placed beyond dispute by the entries in Doomsday Book, which
describes many of the places which it enumerates as depopulated
and waste. Twice the Conqueror marched through this district
after the capture of York ; once on his return from the north,
when many of his soldiers perished among the hills in the snow ;
and a second time on his route from York to Chester. From the
character of the commander and the disposition of the army, there
can be no doubt that their path was marked with flame and
blood. The distribution of landed property in this district will be
exhibited from the statements of Doomsday Book, and other
authorities, which will be found arranged in our accounts of each
of the towns and villages in succession. Nearly the whole of the
district was bestowed upon Ilbert de Lacy, who from the vast
extent of the gifts of the Conqueror, must have been one of his
most distinguished followers, and one of his greatest favourites.
This nobleman consolidated his immense estates in Yorkshire
into the barony of Pontefract, and became the founder of one of A. D. 1072.
the most powerful and renowned families of the north. The
Lacies were celebrated as the founders of the three religious
houses of Nostel, Pontefract, and Kirkstall ; they obtained the
Earldom of Lincoln ; and besides the extensive lordship of Black-
burnshire in the county of Lancaster, they had twenty five towns
in the wapentake of Morley alone, and the greater part of one
hundred and fifty manors in the West Riding of Yorkshire. Of
this family some additional account will be given in the subsequent
pages. It must be further observed upon this subject, that a
complete revolution took place in the whole property of the
country. It was the great object of the Normans to exalt their
power and secure their dominion by the depression and ruin of

38 THE MIDDLE AGES.
the English ; and in the course of a few years, they obtained pos.
session of every dignity in the church, of every place of emolu.
ment and authority in the state, and of almost all the property in
the land.* The consequences of this systematic usurpation were
most disastrous. Strong castles were built in commanding
stations in which the principal lords resided; the adjacent
country was divided among their retainers ; the insolence and
barbarity of both became unbounded; the natives were every
where reduced to abject misery, their females were violated, their
property was ruined, and their persons were insulted. " I will
not undertake," said the ancient historian, " to describe the
misery of this wretched people. It would be a painful task to
me, and the account would not be credited by posterity."
For more than two hundred years, the district continued in
the same depressed condition. Whatever romantie associations
may be connected with the feudal institutions, the times in which
they existed in full vigour, were replete with anarchy, tyranny,
ignorance, wickedness, and woe. The eminences of the prospect
are gilded with the gaudiest colours ; but the whole space beneath
is covered with the blackness of almost impenetrable darkness.
There is something fascinating to the imagination in the trap.
pings of the tournament, the array of knights in glittering
armour, and the brilliant paraphernalia of baronial magnificence;
but while the mind dwells upon scenes like these, presented as
they have often been to its contemplation during the last few
years, with all the graphic power and impressive illustration of
resplendent genius, it is too prone to forget the utter and unmi
tigated degradation of the vast majority of the people, whose
properties and whose lives were at the disposal of their capricious
lords, and whose physical and mental energies were pressed down
to the very dust, by the intolerable weight of an overbearing and
irresistible despotism.
The justice of these observations is fully established by all the
authentic information which can be collected of this district under
the feudal administration. In the reign of Edward the Second,
it reached the lowest stage of depression and misery to which it
ever descended. After the battle of Bannockburn, the exasper
ated Scots, whose marauding rapacity and vindictive passions
were infuriated by a sense of national injury, burst like a deso
lating torrent upon the northern counties ; they repeatedly
* Lingard's Hist, of England, 1. 420.

THE MIDDLE AGES. 39
ravaged the fairest and most fruitful provinces of Yorkshire, and
this district felt the full effects of their bitter animosity. Mor
ley, which seems at this period to have been a place of consider
able consequence, was twice visited by the Scottish forces ; on one
of these occasions a division of their predatory army spent a whole A. D. 1322.
winter in the town ; they no doubt made it the centre of their
operations and the magazine of their spoil ; and in all probability
they so completely ruined it on their departure, that it has
never since recovered its former prosperity and importance.*
Birstall, Rothwell, and Baumberg are particularly mentioned as
the scenes of Scottish devastation. The state of this district and
its vicinity at this period may be ascertained by one circumstance.
Prior to the irruptions which have just been alluded to, the King
came to York for the purpose of raising an army to obstruct the
progress of the victorious Bruce ; but he found the country so
completely depopulated, that he was compelled to apply to the
southern and western counties for men to constitute his forces.
Pestilence and famine aggravated the miseries of feudal
oppression and the calamities of war. The harvest of 1314 had
failed ; the merchants of Newcastle and other ports, on account
of the general scarcity, obtained the royal license to purchase
corn on the continent, and to import it into England ; but the
supply was inadequate, and the price of all the necessaries of life
enormously increased. In the following year the harvest again
failed, a distemper broke out among the cattle, and fatal diseases
were engendered and disseminated among the people, by the
insufficiency and insalubrity of their food. The famine fearfully
increased ; wheat sold for ten times its usual value ; the unhappy
poor fed upon roots, and the flesh of dogs, horses, and the most
loathsome animals ; and instances were not wanting in which the
cravings of hunger so completely stifled the feelings of humanity,
that men devoured the bodies of their companions, and parents
derived their sustenance from the corpses of their children.
For all these reasons, we fix upon the age of Edward II. as
the most calamitous in the history of the district. From the
time of the Conquest, it is probable that its condition had been
gradually deteriorating. It is true, indeed, that some improve
ment was effected in the productiveness of the ecclesiastical
estates ; from some remaining documents, it appears that the
monks of Kirkstall were diligently active in draining the
* Scatcherd's Hist, of Morley, 4.

40 THE. MIDDLE AGES.
marshes, inclosing waste lands, and reclaiming the woods ; but
these were rather exceptions to the common practice, than ordi
nary cases — generally speaking, the nobles were military tyrants,
their retainers were sanguinary freebooters, and the people were
miserable slaves.
During the long reign of Edward III. no event took place
which requires to be inserted in the general history of this dis
trict. The commercial enactments of that monarch, which
affected the basis of what afterwards became the great staple
manufacture of the district, will be described in their proper
place. Richard II., the unfortunate son and successor of this
great monarch, after his deposition by Henry IV. was confined
for some time in the castle of Leeds, prior to his removal to
A D 1399 Pontefract, and his barbarous murder by the emissaries of the
usurper. The reign of Henry witnessed violent commotions in
Yorkshire, in which the inhabitants of this district must have
partially engaged, and by which they must have been conside.
rably agitated. After the rebellion of the Perries, and the defeat
and death of Hotspur at the battle of Shrewsbury, the old Earl of
Northumberland united with Scroop the Archbishop of York,
the Earl Marshal, and some other noblemen, in an insurrection
against the government, with the ostensible object of redressing
the grievances which had been involved in the proceedings of the
usurper. An instrument, divided into ten articles, and charging
the King with perjury, rebellion, extortion, irreligion, usurpation,
and the murder of his sovereign, was fixed upon the doors of the
churches ; and such was the impression it produced, that many
thousand men immediately ran to arms. The plans of the insur
gents, however, were as unsuccessfully performed as they were
wretchedly contrived ; Scroop and the Earl Marshal were taken
A. D. 1405. and executed ; Northumberland, three years afterwards, was
r> 140s defeated and slain on Bramham Moor by Sir Thomas Rokeby,
the Sheriff of the county ; and the whole insurrection, like every
other unsuccessful rebellion, contributed to ensure the stability
and strength of the government it was intended to destroy.
When the fatal war of the Roses commenced — a war, which
although it deluged the country with blood, and multiplied its
miseries beyond all precedent and description, was ultimately
productive of beneficial consequences, by depressing the power of
the barons, by preparing for the annihilation of feudal anarchy,
and the establishment of regular government upon its ruins—

THE MIDDLE AGES. 41
this district, like all the rest of the kingdom, became a scene of
confusion and a theatre of carnage. The pretensions of the Duke
of York to the crown, as descended on the maternal side from
the youngest, and on the maternal from the third, son of Edward
III. — the corporeal and mental incapacity of Henry VI.— the
origin of the contest — the character, the motives, and the crimes
of the leaders of tbe rival factions — and the alternations of victory
or defeat' which chequered the eventful and sanguinary struggle,
the reader will find narrated in other works and by other histo
rians — we confine ourselves exclusively to the transactions which
occurred within the limits or on the borders of our own district,
and which immediately affected the condition of its inhabitants.
After the king had been made a captive by the Yorkists, and
had been compelled to submit to a compromise by which the
Duke of York was declared heir apparent to the crown, the
cause of the Lancastrians was vigorously maintained in the north
by the Earl of Northumberland, and the Lords Clifford, Dacres,
and Nevil. Joined by the Duke of Somerset and the Earl of
Devon, and invigorated by the presence of the queen, the cele
brated Margaret of Anjou, their force appeared sufficiently for
midable to reinstate the unfortunate king in the permanent
possession of his throne, and finally to subvert and triumphantly
to destroy the power of his foes. The Duke of York was aware
of the imminence of his danger, and he hoped by his rapid move
ments and skilful manoeuvres to baffle the designs of the Lancas
trians. Accompanied by the Earl of Salisbury, he advanced by
forced marches at the head of a small army into Yorkshire, took
possession of the strong and extensive castle of Sandal, near
Wakefield, and could he have restrained his ardour until his
eldest son, the Earl of March, had arrived with a numerous
reinforcement, he might probably have succeeded in dispersing
the troops of his enemies. When, however, he heard himself
taunted by the Lancastrians as a coward who had not the courage
to face a woman, he abandoned the fortifications of the castle ; he Dec. 20,
led his little army, consisting of five thousand men, not a fourth
of the number of the Lancastrians, to Wakefield Green, to prove
his bravery, or rather his temerity ; the fate of the battle was
soon decided ; the forces of the Duke were overwhelmed by the
arrows, or trampled down beneath the cavalry of his opponents ;
he was slain upon the field with two thousand of his men and
most of their leaders; and the Earl of Salisbury was taken during

42 THE MIDDLE AGES.
the night, and beheaded the next day. The slaughter was not
confined to the field of battle; one deed of atrocity was perpe.
trated after the victory was gained, which is almost unparalleled
in English history, and has branded the name 6f its perpetrator
with imperishable infamy. The Earl of Rutland, the second son
of the Duke of York, had fled with his tutor from the conflict,
and was stopped on the bridge of Wakefield. When his name
was demanded by his pursuers, he was unable to articulate from
fear, and fell upon his knees; and his tutor, in the hope of
saving his life, exclaimed that he was the son of the Duke of
York. " Then," cried the ruffian Lord Clifford, " as thy father
slew mine, so will I slay thee, and all of thy kin ; " he then
plunged his dagger into the body of the inoffensive youth, and
commanded the tutor to go and to bear the tidings of the murder
to the widowed mother. This Clifford, says Leland, for this
and other brutalities perpetrated during the course of the war,
acquired the name of the " boucher" * The body of the Duke
of York was recognized among the slain ; the head was presented
to the queen ; and this gory trophy of her victory, surrounded
with a paper crown in derision of the Duke's royal claims, was
fixed upon the walls of York.
The battle of Wakefield by no means terminated the calami.
ties of the district during this cruel civil war ; its borders were
destined, in a few short months, to witness a contest the most
sanguinary and tremendous that ever occurred in the British
Isles. Edward, the Earl of March, assumed the direction of the
Yorkists, and on the field of Towton he waded through the blood
of his enemies to the possession of the throne. This talented and
brave, but cruel, vindictive, and profligate leader, undaunted
by the defeat and death of his father, had marched with an army
from the west of England to London ; there he had formed a
junction with the celebrated Earl of Warwick, "the king-
maker ; " and such was the terror inspired by the abilities and
the power of these renowned chieftains, that the Lancastrians
March 4, retired with expedition into the counties of the north. When
1461. Edward had assumed the title and authority of a monarch in
London, he marched with the Earl of Warwick into Yorkshire,
* Leland says of this battle, " There was a sore batell fought in the south
fieldes by this bridge, and on the flite of the Duke of York's parte, other the
Duke himself or his sun therle of Rutheland was slayne a little above the
barres beyond the bridge going up a clyving ground."

THE MIDDLE AGES. 43
to avenge the death of his father, and, by a decisive victory, to
fix the crown upon his head. The hostile armies were very
numerous, and were inflamed against each other with the worst
passions which can brutalise the heart of man — forty-nine thou
sand combatants were arrayed under the banner of Edward at
Pontefract, and sixty thousand cavalry and infantry on the side
of the Lancastrians were collected in the neighbourhood of York.
The armies advanced to decide the contest. Ferrybridge had
been occupied, and the passage of the river at that place had
been secured for Edward, by Lord Fitzwalter, but this officer
was surprised and slain by Lord Clifford. To remedy this disas
ter, Lord Falconbridge, with a strong body of troops, ascended
the Aire to Castleford, where he crossed the river ; while Clifford
retreated before him to the outposts of the Lancastrian army,
and at Dittingdale, close to Towton, " the boucher " was unex
pectedly slain by an arrow in the throat* The next day, the y h 2n
decisive battle of Towton was fought, and the murderous obsti- 1461.
nacy with which both armies contended, will be demonstrated
both by the nature of their respective positions, and the duration
of the struggle. Since the field of battle was little more than a
mile in length, the troops on either side must have advanced to
the front in successive divisions over the bodies of their com
panions. From nine in the morning until seven in the evening,
the conflict continued without intermission; at length the
Lancastrians, confused and blinded by a fall of snow which was
driven by the wind directly in their faces, began to give way, at
first leisurely and in good order, but soon in confusion and terror.
The bed of the little river Cock, directly in their rear, was soon
filled with the corpses of the slain ; universal and irremediable
panic prevailed among the vanquished ; the Yorkists had been
forbidden by proclamation to give any quarter; nearly thirty
thousand of the Lancastrians perished, and if the loss of their
opponents be taken into the account, it will appear that almost
forty thousand Englishmen perished by each other's hands on this
dreadful day. Six barons were slain in the battle and pursuit ;
the Earl of Northumberland died of his wounds on his arrival in
York ; the Earls of Devonshire and Wiltshire were taken in
* A retributive Providence was remarkably displayed in the death of this
ferocious baton. When he had unclasped his helmet to drink a cup of wine,
a boy, whose father he had slain, and who was concealed in an adjoining
bush, inflicted upon him a mortal wound with an arrow.

44 -THE MIDDLE AGES.
their flight, and were decapitated ; the heads of some of these
noblemen were affixed to the walls of York ; and Edward, thus
victorious, returned from the north to London, where he consum.
mated his triumph by the ceremony of his coronation. The
reader will be gratified by having this brief account of the battle
of Towton terminated by the description of Camden.
That antiquary says, " From Aberford the river Cockar
makes its way to the Wharf, as if mourning for detestation of the
civil wars, ever since it ran with English blood. For on its bank
near the country village of Towton, was strictly our Pharsalia.
This kingdom in no place saw so great an army and such a body
of nobility (no less than one hundred thousand men) never more
inveterate or more spirited leaders of opposite factions, who on
Palm Sunday 1461 met in a pitched battle. The fight continued
doubtful the greater part of the day. The Lancastrians, unable
to withstand the shock, nothing proving so fatal to them as the
unwieldy vastness of their own army, gave way and fled in disor.
der. The Yorkists pursued them with so much eagerness, that
besides many of the nobility, thirty five thousand English fell that
day." *
Some relics of this engagement are still in existence. Besides
the tomb of Lord Dacre in Saxton Church, and some other
stones with crosses sv ;>po;ed to commemorate others of the slain,
Whitaker preserved w, Ii -aspect a silver ring gilt, with two hands
conjoined, which v.v, tnd upon the field of Towton. The same
antiquary remarl -, . the remains of arms, armour, bones, &c.
turned up on the ground of this great engagement have been
remarkably small, a fact which may be accounted for by recollect
ing that the weather was cold and the victory complete, so that
the spoil of the field and the interment of the dead proceeded at
leisure. One relic, however, of great value escaped the vigilance
of plunder, namely a gold ring weighing above an ounce, which
was found on the field about forty-eight years ago. It had no
stone, but a lion passant was cut upon the gold with this inscrip
tion in the old black character, " Nowe ys thus." The crest is
that of the Percies, and there can be little doubt that it was the
ring actually worn by Northumberland. The motto seems to
allude to the times, " The Age is fierce as a lion."t
In the subsequent changes of this sanguinary contest, though
* Rough's Camd. iii. 67. \ Whitaker's Loid und El. p. 156.

THE MIDDLE AGES. 45
it continued to rage upon its frontiers, this district had no parti
cipation ; and no event occurred of sufficient importance to be
inscribed upon its annals, until Henry VIII. overturned the papal
dominion in England, and relieved his kingdom from a disgrace
ful bondage in which it had been retained more than five hundred
years. However beneficial the effects of this great revolution
were in after times, they involved in the first instance considera
ble confusion, and produced a dangerous rebellion against the
royal government. After the dissolution of the religious houses,
with the chantries, chapels, hospitals, and other institutions for
the benefit of the poor, the dissatisfaction of the people was exas
perated by the officious representations of the priests and monks
who- had been expelled from their convents, and who, notwith
standing all the enormities which were laid to their charge, still
retained a powerful influence over the popular mind. The con
sequence was, that an armed multitude from the counties of
Durham, Lancaster, and York, assembled under the command
of Robert Aske of Aughton, a gentleman of considerable fortune
and influence, and assisted by several men of dignity and abilities.
These rebels called their expedition the Pilgrimage of Grace ; A. D. 1536.
they were headed in their march by a number of priests in the
habits of their order, with crucifixes in their hands, and with the
exhibition of other mummeries of popery, to maintain the confi
dence and to influence the enthusiasm of the motley crowd who
were thus rushing upon their own destruction. This insurrec
tion is mentioned in this work, because the pilgrims directed their
course through this district on their way to Pontefract castle,
which they captured. It is unnecessary to accompany them on
their progress to the south, or to describe the infatuation of their
councils, the wily policy of their opponents, the dispersion of their
forces, the execution of their leaders, and the ruin of their cause.
The whole insurrection originated in fanaticism, was conducted
with folly, and terminated in disgrace.*
No incidents merit record in the history of the district for
more than a century after the Pilgrimage of Grace. The resto
ration of popery by Mary, and of Protestantism by Elizabeth ;
the rebellions of the earls of Northumberland and Westmoreland
on behalf of the captive queen of Scots; the accession of James I.
and the commencement of the dynasty of the infatuated and
* Drake's York, 235. Fox's Martyrol. ii. 992. Ling. iv.. 252.

46 THE MIDDLE AGES.
unfortunate Stuarts, produced no consequences to this district
which demand particular description or effected any extensive
alteration in the state of its interests and inhabitants. The occa
sional ravages of pestilence refer rather to individual localities
than to the general district ; and, with other diversified events,
will be narrated in our accounts of the towns and villages
within our limits.

47

SECTION IV. THE CIVIL WAR.

The civil war between Charles I. and the Parliament, forms
the most interesting, but at the same time the most melancholy
department of our History. It is not our province to state the
origin and progress, or to estimate the merits of the dispute
between privilege and prerogative, between regal aggression and
popular rights. The conduct of the king on the one hand, it
must be acknowledged, was most imprudent, most illegal, and
tyrannical, and was directly calculated to involve himself, his
family, and his government in one common ruin. Taxes, some
of them iniquitous and oppressive, were levied without the con
sent of parliament ; extravagant imposts were laid upon several
kinds of merchandise ; the officers of the customs were empow
ered to enter into any habitation to seize upon effects in default
of the payment of duties ; and to repress resistance and inforce
obedience, many condemnatory sentences, infamously severe, were
passed in the Star Chamber and the High Commission Court.
The " Petition of Right," which was ultimately accepted by the
king, indeed, professed to remedy these grievances ; it declared
compulsory loans, arbitrary taxes, the exercise of martial law, and
the oppression of the courts just named, to be contrary to the
established laws of the kingdom. Well would it have been had A. D. 1628.
the principles embodied in this celebrated document, regulated
the conduct of both parties in their ulterior proceedings.
" Happy," exclaims De Lolme,* " had been the people if their
leaders, after having executed so noble a work, had contented
themselves with being the benefactors of their country ! Happy
had been the king, if his submission had been sincere, and if he
had become sufficiently sensible that the only resource he had left
was in the affection of his subjects !"
There can be no doubt that prior to the commencement of the
civil war, great excitement must have been produced in this dis
trict and in the whole county of York, by the royal expeditions
* De Lolme on the English Constitution, p. 59.

A. D. 1641.

48 THE CIVIL WAR.
against the Scots. Charles, treading in the steps of his father,
attempted to force episcopacy and a liturgy upon Scotland, against
all the principle, all the conviction, and all the determination of
the people ; this most impolitic and tyrannical, this positively
insane as well as wicked measure, filled the whole nation with
confusion and tumult ; and the exasperated and aggrieved Scots
formed their Solemn League and Covenant, by which they bound
themselves to resist innovations in religion and to defend each
A. D. 1639. other against all violence and oppression. In the hostilities
A. D. 1640. wjjigh followed, Charles twice visited Yorkshire ; and while the
whole county was filled with military preparations, the people
eagerly discussed the proceedings of government, and their minds
were gradually prepared for the fierce and calamitous struggle
which followed. After the impeachment, condemnation, and exe
cution of the earl of Strafford,* the breach between the king and
* Since this unfortunate and culpabte, though highly talented man, be
longed to this district, a few particulars relative to his connexion with it, may
be inserted in this note without fatiguing the patience of the reader. Gaw-
thorp Hall, which formerly stood in the immediate vicinity of the site of the
present Harewood House, was his patrimonial residence. It had previously
been rendered celebrated as the seat of Chief Justice Gascoigne, from whose
family it passed by marriage to the Wentworths, and at the commencement of
the seventeenth century Sir William Wentworth, the father of the subject of
this note, was in possession of it. Thomas Wentworth was the eldest son of
this baronet, and succeeded to the title and estates in 1614. He had previ
ously married Mary Clifford, eldest daughter of the earl of Cumberland. To
the delightful retreat of Gawthorp he was sincerely attached, and seems to have
been passionately devoted to the pleasures of a rural life, until he was allured
by the fascinations of ambition into the agitating scenes of political life. The
following quotation from a letter written by Wentworth to Sir George Calvert,,
principal secretary of state, shews his zest for the occupations of the country.
" Our harvest is all in ; a most fine season to make fishponds ; our plums are all
gone and past ; peaches, quinces and grapes, almost fully ripe, &c. These
only we countrymen muse of; hoping in such harmless retirements for a just
defence from the higher powers, and possessing ourselves in contentment, pray
with Dryope in the poet, —
Et si qua est pietas, ab acutse vulnere falcis,
Et pecoris morsu frondes defendite nostras."
This letter is dated August 31, 1624. Happy would it have been for the
writer had he never left Gawthorp; then he would not have been branded with
the name of an apostate, he would not have excited the fury of a whole
nation, he would not have been abandoned, by an unworthy and ungrateful
master in the hour of danger, he would not have suffered the death of a
traitor. The name of Strafford will shortly occur in another note.

THE CIVIL WAR. 49
parliament continued to grow wider, and the adherents of both to
become more irritated, until there was no appeal left but to the
sword. When the standard of war had been unfurled, when the
trumpet had sounded its fatal blast, when the sword had been
drawn and the scabbard had been thrown away, Yorkshire
became one of the principal theatres of the unnatural struggle,
and its inhabitants, in proportion, the subjects of its multiplied
calamities. We shall exclusively confine ourselves, in our narra
tive, to the events which transpired in the province which is the
subject of the work.
The great majority of the inhabitants of our district were
devotedly attached to the parliament at the commencement of the
civil war; and on this account they were represented by the
royalists as eminently disaffected. The example and influence of
some of the most distinguished of their gentry ; their dread of
popery, which had been inspired by some imprudent measures
of the court ; and their abhorrence of arbitrary power — all com
bined to prejudice the minds of the people against their unfor
tunate monarch, and to induce them to obstruct to the utmost
extent of their ability the progress and success of his cause.
One principal source of their aversion to the party of the royalists
has yet to be mentioned. A considerable number of the people
were anxious not only to obtain an increase of civil liberty, hut to
effect a change in the whole ecclesiastical constitution of the
country. They believed that the reformation was incomplete, and
that many of the rites and ceremonies retained by the established
church, were opposed to the letter, and were inconsistent with the
spirit, of the gospel. Some of this very numerous body of indi
viduals were Presbyterians, and others were Congregationalists.
The first desired to have a church governed like that of Scotland,
or some of the ecclesiastical societies abroad — the second were for
abolishing all general as well as secular government of the church,
and for leaving each individual congregation of Christians to enact
its own laws, and to administer its own affairs. The religious
feelings of both parties had been shocked by the royal sanction
which both James I. and Charles I. had given to the profanation
of the Lord's day;* and their affections had been completely
alienated from the Church, by the conduct of both these princes,
* By the infamous book of Sports.
H

50 THE CIVIL WAR.
who had made its ministers the direct advocates and supports of
their prerogative, and by the proceedings of its unhappy primate
(Laud) whom they justly regarded as the originating cause of
the most obnoxious and fatal aggressions of the court.
" At the first setting out," says the historian of York, " the
gentlemen of both parties were so cautious of involving this
_ ,., county in a war, that a treaty was set on foot, and fourteen
DatedSept. J , , . .
29, 1642. articles agreed upon between them, by and with the consent of
the right honourable Henry earl of Cumberland, lord lieutenant
of his majesty's forces in the county of York, and Ferdinando
lord Fairfax. These articles comprehended a suspension of all
military actions and preparations in the county on both sides."*
In the signatures appended to this document, the reader will
recognise the names of some of the most influential persons con.
nected with this district. It was signed on the king's party hv
Henry Bellasyse, William Savile, Edward Osborne, John Rams!
den, Ingram Hopton, and Francis Nevile ; and on the side of the
parliament, by Thomas Fairfax, Henry Mauleverer, William
Lister, William White, John Farrar, and John Stockdale,
This impracticable agreement was violated almost as soon as it
was made.
A curious circumstance is recorded by Thoresby, which
occurred prior to the commencement of hostilities, and which will
be interesting at any rate to the inhabitants of Leeds. Mr,
Robinson, the vicar of that town, was induced at the request of
his old patron, the earl of Southampton, to preach before the king
then at York. This clergyman, who was in the same city when
the application was made to him, had only one sermon with him
upon a text, which was certainly strangely contradictory to the
occasion, and inconsistent with the character and intentions of the
auditory. The text was Heb. xii. 13. " Follow peace with all
men, and holiness, without which no man shall see the Lord."
This text, however, says the narrator, " he managed so dexter-
ously, as not only to avoid giving offence, but to procure a gracious
acknowledgment from the king, who offered him the title and dis
tinction of his chaplain, which he modestly declined." Mr.
Robinson, it will soon be seen, was an eminent loyalist, and a dis
tinguished sufferer in the cause of his master.t
When Charles I. had removed from York to Nottingham,
where he pitched the royal standard and commenced the opera-
* Drake's Hist. York, p. 160 f Thoresby's Vicaria, p. 75.

THE CIVIL WAR. 51
tions of the war, Sir Thomas Fairfax, " the hero of the common
wealth," the son of Lord Fairfax of Denton, and Captain Hotham,
son of Sir John Hotham the governor of Hull, encouraged by the
favourable disposition of the people and the weakness of the
royalists, advanced to Wetherby and Tadcaster, and successfully A.D. 1642.
repulsed Sir Thomas Glemham who attempted to regain pos-
session of the towns. But when the Earl, afterwards Marquis
and Duke of Newcastle, had arrived from the north with a con
siderable army in York, the Royalists by their numbers obtained
a comparative superiority; they retook Tadcaster, compelled
Fairfax to retire, and attempted the complete subjugation of the
whole West Riding to the authority of the king. Wakefield and
Leeds were incapable of making any effectual resistance ; and
the former town, on account of its central situation on the high
road to the south, and the fertility of the surrounding country,
was made by the royalist general his place of arms ; there for
some time he had his head quarters ; and when he marched to
the reduction of Sheffield and Rotherham, then occupied by the
parliamentarians, he left the greatest part of his artillery and
ammunition behind him in Wakefield, with a considerable part
of his- army for a guard.*
The royalists were not satisfied with the reduction of Wake
field and Leeds ; a numerous body of them marched against
Bradford, and encamped on that part of the common called Dec. 1642.
Undercliff. The inhabitants, who through the whole of the
war displayed extraordinary intrepidity and animated devotion
to the cause of the parliament, prepared to withstand an assault,
and the besiegers were driven away with loss. In a few days
they again returned to the attack under the command of Goring,
Newcastle's Master of the Horse, and other officers ; the inhabit
ants, according to a custom f. prevalent long anterior to the siege,
had rendered the tower of the church the fortress of the town,
and had surrounded it with woolpacks to deaden the force of the
cannon shot. The royalists came on with great impetuosity, and
were received with equal resolution. Goring, separated from
his men in the assault of the church, was taken by the parliament
arians, but was rescued by a charge of his own troops ; while a
* Drake 161. Life of Newcastle by his Duchess, 33—35.
f Scatcherd has collected various references to this practice in his History
of Morley.

52 THE CIVIL WAR.
person called by Lister (from whose auto-biography this account
is taken) Sir John Harp, son of the Earl of Newport, who
attempted to force his way to the church through a house, but
was abandoned by his men, was slain by the inhabitants not
withstanding his intreaties for quarter. The royalists were com.
pelled to retire a second time to Leeds, and Sir Thomas Fairfax
arrived in Bradford, and assumed the command of its resolute
defenders. The troops of the parliament in Bradford were so animated
by the two signal defeats which they had inflicted upon the
Jan 23, royalists, that Fairfax, to render their ardour as subservient as
possible to the promotion of his cause, led them directly against
Leeds ; they took the town by storm ; * a considerable number
of soldiers were slain ; Major Beaumont of Whitley was drowned
while attempting to cross the Aire in his flight, and Mr. Robinson
the vicar narrowly escaped the same fate.t After the storming
April 1, of Leeds, the royalists assumed a position at Seacroft, where
they were assailed by the parliamentarians, but they maintained
their post, and the assailants were defeated with the slaughter
of a few of their men. A Captain Boswell is mentioned in the
the parish register of Leeds, who was slain in this battle, and
buried in that town.
The Earl of Newcastle now made vigorous and successful
efforts to restore the superiority of the royal arms. He assem
bled his troops at Wakefield, and marched to attack the par-
* The following entry in the parish register of Leeds thus refers to this
event. — " 23d Jan. 1642 — 3 : Leedes was taken by Sir Thomas Fairfax, 11
soldiers slain, buried 24 ; five more slain two or three days after; six more
died of their wounds."
f The adventures of Mr. Robinson after his escape, deserve to be briefly
recited in this work. He fled from Leeds to Methley Hall, where for some
time he was successfully concealed; but as the power of the parliament
became prevalent, and his attachment to the royal cause remained unchanged,
he retired from one garrison of the cavaliers to another, until he was at length
taken and thrown into prison, first at Middleham and afterwards at Cawood.
At the latter place he experienced a, signal providential deliverance. The
upper part of a tower fell upon his apartment, burst through the roof, and
yet the stones descended in such a manner that only one arm was fractured,
Through all his misfortunes he was cheered by the possession of the greatest
blessing which man can enjoy — the affection of a virtuous woman. His
wife never abandoned him in his confinement; through her representations
he was at length liberated, and became rector of Swillington, where he died.
— Thoresby's Vic.

THE CIVIL WAR. 53
liamentarians, with several thousand infantry, a considerable body
of cavalry, and a formidable array of artillery. On his way he
formed the siege of Howley Hall,* then garrisoned for the
parliament by Sir John Savile of Lupset, and a body of raw
inexperienced soldiers, hastily collected, and ill provisioned.
Although Newcastle brought his cannon to bear upon the build
ing, and fiercely battered its '.jails, the gallant governor resisted
him with great resolution ; the superiority of numbers and artil- June 22,
lery prevailed, and the place was taken by storm. Dr. Whitaker
has been strangely mistaken in his account of this event.t Instead
of having been so irritated by the intrepid resistance of the
governor and garrison as to have commanded them all to be put
to the sword, and to have rebuked an officer for having given
quarter to Sir John Savile, Newcastle appears to have acted
with exemplary humanity, and to have protected the parliament
arians from the fury of his soldiers. Although the stores and
- goods in the hall were plundered, the building received but little
injury, and we find it a short time afterwards again a garrison
for the parliament.^ * Rushworth, p. 274.
f The account which the learned Dr. has given of the siege of Howley
Hall must have been compiled with haste, and is chargable with contradiction
as well as inaccuracy. He says that Howley Hall was held for the king, and
stormed by the opposite party, when the very reverse of this was the case.
His mistakes the reader will find ably exposed by Scatcherd. History of
Morley, 245.
+ Of the proprietor of Howley Hall at this period, it is necessary to give a
short account. This was Thomas Lord Viscount Savile, a younger son of Sir
John Savile, the builder of Howley Hall, and through the reign of James I.
a constant opponent of the measures of the court. Lord Thomas Savile, like
his father, was the enemy of Strafford, and at the same time he was most
certainly attached to the Puritans. This nobleman, by sending a letter to
the general of the Scots professedly signed by six of the principal noblemen in
England, and inviting them to advance to the rescue of the country, was the
means of bringing them into this part of the kingdom, and thus of effecting
the ruin of Strafford, and the triumph of the parliament After the death of
Strafford, he declared for the king, and he enrolled his name at York in the
list of those who resolved to devote their lives and fortunes to the royal cause.
When Howley Hall had been stormed as we have related, Lord Savile applied
for compensation for the damage which had been done by the royalists, but
his memorial did him no good, and elicited a mortifying reply from the court.
Although 8ussex had espoused the cause of his sovereign, Charles always
disliked him; Sussex knew this, and at length abandoned his master, repaired
to London, and threw himself upon the mercy of the parliament. He was

54 THE CIVIL WAR.
Lord Fairfax and his son, aware of the advance and success of
Newcastle, convinced that Bradford, from its untenable situation,
surrounded by hills on every side, could not long hold out against
the overwhelming force of the royalists, and that nothing but a
decisive victory could insure its safety, determined to attempt an
effectual surprise of their enemies, and the consequent dispersion
of their army. At the head of three thousand men, they advanced
towards the quarters of the royalists ; but they were betrayed by
some traitors in their own ranks ; Newcastle had received accu
rate intelligence of their motions ; and his infantry, cavalry, and
artillery were all drawn up in regular battalia on Adwalton Moor.
The Fairfaxes, however, though delayed, disappointed, and
betrayed, though vastly inferior to the royalists both in the
number, the composition, and the materiel of their troops,
advanced with admirable courage to the charge ; and ably
seconded by their officers and men, they at one time penetrated
the lines of the royalists, and were on the very point of gaining a
glorious victory. Rushworth, almost the only historian who has
given an accurate account of the battle, says, " The Earl had the
advantage in number, especially in horse ; but Fairfax's foot at
first got the ground, and had almost encompassed the Earl's train
of artillery, and put his forces to the rout, when .a stand of pikes
gave some check to their success, and at the same time a body of
horse fell upon their rear and routed them ; so that the fortune
of the field being changed in one instant, Fairfax's army was
utterly defeated, several pieces of ordnance taken, four or five
hundred men slain, and many prisoners." * Lord Fairfax retreated
to Bradford, and his son to Halifax, but the latter joined his
father on the following day.t Numerous relics, such as cannon

received as he deserved, with suspicion ; he was even exposed to the
of punishment, and what ultimately became of him it is useless to inquire,
He was the first and last Earl of Sussex of his family, and is a proof of the
fact, that a man of no fixed principles always becomes despicable at last Of
his family, some account will be given in another chapter. Drake, 150.
Whitaker, 237. Scatcherd, 38, 39.
* Rushworth, v. 279.
f The reader will be pleased with the following lively description of this
engagement by Scatcherd. — " The battle of Adwalton Moor, notwithstanding
the result, is one among the number of contests in those times, which may
teach us the vast superiority of moral over physical or brute force ; of prin
ciple and patriotism, over ignorance and servility. Confiding in their immense
numbers, their powerful cavalry and cannon, in the treachery of Gifford,

THE CIVIL WAR. 55
balls, grape shot, bullets, and bridle chains, have been found on
the scene of this desperate engagement.*
Immediately after the battle of Adwalton, Newcastle advanced
against Bradford,t and fixed his head quarters at Bowling Hall.
Fairfax found that resistance would be unavailing, and would
only lead to a useless expenditure of blood. At the head of his
determined followers, he broke through the lines of the royalists,
and effected his escape through Leeds to Hull ; but his lady, who
with a courage and fortitude above her sex, had been his com
panion through all the perils of the campaign, fell into the hands
of the enemy. Newcastle, with the true dignity of a nobleman
and the generosity of a Briton, not only liberated the intrepid
female on the spot, but sent her under an escort, and in his own
coach, to a place of safety that she might rejoin her gallant
husband. Bradford, after the departure of Fairfax, was filled
with apprehension and despair. We have already stated" how,
in the second attack of the royalists upon the town, some of the
inhabitants in the fury of the battle had killed Sir John Harp
after he had called for quarter. It was now generally believed,
that the victorious general was determined to exact a terrible
revenge for the slaughter of the young cavalier, and to inflict a
tremendous punishmeut upon the town for its zealous attach
ment to the cause of the parliament, by abandoning it to the
Jeffries and others, and the discontent arising from false notions, the royalist
army could assure itself of nothing short of an immediate victory, and yet
after all it was only achieved by a sort of accident. Their outposts beaten
back upon their main body, twice did they attack with a numerous cavalry,
and twice were they driven away to their cannon, leaving their commanders
dead upon the field. The little army advanced— the mighty host retired— a
general panic had seized it — a general retreat was sounded — and troops had
even quitted the field — all, in short, appeared to be over, and the republican
arms were triumphant, when by the fortune of a general officer on the one
side, and the perfidy of some of higher rank on the other, the battle lost was
recovered." Hist. Morley, 280.
* The hat of a Major Greatheed, who fought in the parliamentary army,
and who escaped unhurt, perforated with two balls, and cut into stripes in the
brim by the swords of the cavalry, was preserved in his family above a century
afterwards. Scatcherd ubi supra.
f Of this attack upon Bradford, an interesting memorial was found in 1827.
Iu taking down the premises adjoining the Union Inn in Ivegate, was found
an eight pound cannon ball, no doubt shot from one of the guns of the
royalists on this occasion.

56 THE CIVIL WAR.
licentiousness and brutality of his soldiers, by the conflagration
of all its buildings, and the massacre of all its inhabitants,
According, however, to the narrative of Lister, a female appa
rition approached the bed of Newcastle in Bowling Hall during
the night immediately preceding the intended tragedy, implored
him to spare the town, and so wrought either upon his feelings
or his fears, that he promised to spare the trembling people.
The impression produced by this dream or apparition was so
powerful, that instead of wreaking his vengeance upon the
unarmed inhabitants, he contented himself by occupying the
town as a garrison for the king.*
These successes were by no means decisive, and the cause of
the parliament soon recovered its pristine vigour. The royalists
sustained a severe reverse at Wakefield ; that town was captured
by the parliamentarians ; Lord Goring, and nearly all his troops
were taken prisoners ; and his cannon, his baggage, and ammu.
nition fell into the hands of the conquerors.t Bradford too was
soon recovered by the republicans ; for when the Earl, now
Marquis of Newcastle, had marched to oppose the Scots in then-
progress towards the northern frontiers of the county, Bradford
was again held for the parliament by Colonel Lambert and his
regiment. Colonel Bellasis, then the Governor of York for the
King, projected the recovery of the town, and he marched with
the greatest rapidity against it in the hope of surprising the
forces of the parliament. Lambert however was on the alert, he
sallied from the town at the head of his men, but retreated
behind his ranks when he had ascertained the superior strength
of his enemy. The assault of the royalists was vigorous ; but
the defence was obstinate and successful ; Bellasis was defeated
with great slaughter, and his antagonist furiously charging on
his rear during his retreat, took Colonel Bagshawe, several
Captains, one hundred and fifty horse and sixty foot, prisoners.}:
Bradford from this time seems to have been one of the principal
stations for the parliament in the north ; for after the storming
of Bolton-le-Moors by Prince Rupert, and the slaughter of its
inhabitants, Colonel Rigby, a member of the House of Commons,
* For these particulars and other details, vide the homely but interesting
narrative of Lister passim.
f Hunter's Hallamshire 106. Newcastle Mem. 35.
{ Rushworth v. 617.

THE CIVIL WAR 57
and the governor of that unhappy place at the time of the
assault, found a refuge with some of the fugitive garrison in
Bradford* The affairs of thej parliament in this district after
the defeat of Bellasis at Bradford, were soon in a highly prospe
rous condition. While the Marquis of Newcastle was in the
north, Sir T. Fairfax then besieging Lathom House in Lan
cashire, defended by that celebrated heroine the Countess of
Derby, received orders from the parliament to take advantage of
the absence of the royalist commander, and to drive his garrisons
and troops from the West-Riding of Yorkshire. Fairfax leaving
a part of his army to continue the siege, obeyed the mandate^
reduced the whole district into subjection, and organised those
forces, which, in conjunction with the Scots under Lesley, and
the army of the Earl of Manchester, decisively established the
superiority of the parliament by the memorable victory of
Marston Moor.t
That victory decided the fate of Yorkshire and ultimately of
the nation ; the Marquis of Newcastle fled to the continent ; the
city of York surrendered to the conquerors ; the affairs of the
unfortunate Charles declined in every part of the kingdom ;
until defeated at Naseby, sold by the Scots, and insulted by his
enemies, his life and reign were terminated by the axe of the
executioner — another proof among innumerable affecting instances
of a similar character recorded in history, that for a monarch there
is but a narrow step between a prison and a grave.
After the battle of Marston Moor the tumultuous agitations of
this district gradually subsided into tranquillity. The ruinous
and decisive defeat of Lord Digby at Sherburn, and the
surrender of the castles of Skipton, Sandal, and Pontefract,
terminated the struggle which had deluged the country with
* Rushworth v. 624.
f Indications of the terror inspired by these civil wars are perpetually.
occurring in this district. In 1824, a number of silver coins of the reigns of
Mary, Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I., were found under an ancient
building at Scholes, near Berwick-in-Elmete. In the same village, about fifty
years before, a high wind blew down a thatched roof, in the middle of which
was discovered a bag full of silver coins. Both these hoards were no doubt
concealed in the civil wars. Another instance of a similar description
occurred in 1826, when, as some workmen were removing an ancient wall at
Garforth, they found a leathern purse containing forty-one coins of Elizabeth,
James I. and Charles I., undoubtedly deposited in their hiding place at the
same period. 1

58 THE CIVIL WAR.
calamity and blood; the industry of the inhabitants and the
progress of manufactures and commerce speedily repaired the
desolations of civil war ; and the whole district continued to
increase in productivenes, in population, in opulence, and in
general prosperity, until the evanescent commonwealth was
ruined by the defection of the army and the imbecility of the
second Cromwell, and the Stuarts were permitted to reascend,
and for another quarter of a century to occupy, the throne of the
British isles.
Before this narrative of the events which transpired in the
civil war is closed, one circumstance must be related which will
please and interest the reader. While Charles I. was in the
hands of the Scots, and was on his way with them from Newark
to Newcastle, he was lodged in the Red Hall in Leeds, shortly to
be described, and at that period probably the best house in the
town. During his stay at this place, a maid servant, compas.
sionating his deplorable situation, and probably acting under the
influence of some royalists in the town, implored him to disguise
himself in her dress, and thus to elude the vigilance of his guards
and to effect his escape. She declared, at the same time, that
were he to succeed in the attempt, he would be immediately
conducted by a back alley (Lands Lane) to a friend's house, from
whence he could proceed to France. Charles, however, either
convinced that the project was impracticable, or entertaining
hopes of the intentions of the Scots in his favour which were
most signally to be disappointed, refused to embrace the woman's
offer, but at the same time to evince his gratitude for her zeal,
he gave her the Garter, saying that if it were never in his own
power to reward her, his son, on the sight of that token, would
bestow upon her some remuneration. After the restoration, the
woman repaired to Charles II. related the circumstance, and
produced the token. The king inquired from whence she came,
she replied, "from Leeds in Yorkshire." " Whether she had a
husband ?" She answered that she had. " What was his
calling?" She said, "An Under Bailiff." "Then," said the
king, " he shall be chief bailiff in Yorkshire." Charles seems to
have been as good as his word ; the husband was elevated to
importance and affluence; and afterwards built Crosby House in the
Head Row* This circumstance is worthy of record as one of those
* Thoresby Ducat. 25.

SUBSEQUENT HISTORY 5g
very rare examples of gratitude to those who had been devoted to
the cause of his father and his own, afforded by a king whose
character*may be ascertained by the fact, that he was employed
in hunting a moth with his mistresses, while the Dutch were
burning and capturing our ships of war in the Thames, and
insulting the metropolis of the kingdom.*
SUBSEQUENT HISTORY.
Although the majority of the population of this district
united in the general joy and exultation with which the restora
tion of Charles II. to the throne of his ancestors was hailed, yet
that event was regarded with unmitigated dissatisfaction by all
who had imbibed republican principles, by all who were opposed
to the established episcopacy, and by all who entertained a rea
sonable distrust of the splendid promises and protestations of the
king. This dissatisfaction was aggravated by the persecuting
spirit of the government, and especially by that fatal act of
uniformity, by which a vast number of the most excellent and
influential ministers in the kingdom were excluded from their
pulpits and driven from the church. The feeling thus produced
and fomented, engendered in this district a criminal, and, under
all the circumstances of the case, an insane conspiracy, whose
character, agents, and termination, must be rapidly presented to
the reader. The declared objects of the conspirators were, to
" re-establish a gospel ministry and magistracy ; to restore the
long parliament ; to relieve themselves from the excise and all
subsidies ; and to reform all orders and degrees of men, especially
the lawyers and clergy." From the most diligent investigation
which the writer has been able to devote to all the particulars
which have been recorded relative to this extraordinary plot, he
cannot but express his conviction, that it was directed, if it was
not originated, by detestable agents employed by some persons
high in authority, to produce a political explosion which they
might render subservient to their own objects and interests.
Whoever peruses with attention the deposition of Ralph Oates
against the conspirators,t will have no difficulty, not only in
perceiving that this was the fact, but also in fixing upon the very
individual whose representations appear to have been the means
* Pepys's Diary ii. 77.
f See this deposition in Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete 108, 173.

60 SUBSEQUENT HISTORY.
of inducing the preposterous enterprise* However this may be,
a plot against the government was concocted, its ramifications
seem to have been widely extended, and a number of the con-
Oct. 12 spirators assembled at a trench in Farnley wood in arms. Their
1663. paltry rebellion was blasted in its infancy. They had been
betrayed. Those who excited, probably informed of the plot. A
body of regular troops and militia advanced against them ; many
were taken on the spot, and many who were concerned in the
scheme, were afterwards arrested. Lord Clarendon informs us
that " all the prisons in the north were so full, that the king
thought it necessary to send down four or five judges to York
with commissions of oyer and terminer to examine the whole
matter."t The ringleader of the conspiracy proved to be Captain
Oates, an old republican officer, who, after the restoration, had
taught a school at Morley, in the chancel end of what is now
called the Old Chapel. This man, with twenty of his compa
nions, were executed ; three of them upon Chapeltown moor.J
Drake, in narrating this event says, and upon such topics as
these, this otherwise excellent historian knew no moderation in
sentiment or language, " Several of these hot-headed zealots
behaved very insolently on their trials. Corney (one of the
number) had the assurance to tell the judge, that, in such a cause
he valued his life no more than he did his handkerchief.' Two
of these enthusiastical wretches were quartered, and their
quarters set up upon the several gates of the city. Four of their
heads were set upon Micklegate bar, three at Bootham bar, one
at Walmgate bar, and three over the castle gates.§ The reign
of Charles II., indeed, was prolific with plots, because it was
replete with aggressions ; and was one of the most agitated, as it
was certainly the most inglorious of any recorded in the annals
of the British empire. The monarch, with talents which might
* Whoever wishes to form an accurate judgment of this curious affair,
will find it examined with laudable diligence by Scatcherd in his History of
Morley, to which work the reader is referred.
+ Clarendon's Contin. ii. 415.
X Their names were Thomas Oates, Samuel Ellis, John Nettleton, sen.
John Nettleton, jun. Robert Scott, William Tolson, John Forster, Robert
Olroyd, John Asquith, Peregrine Corney, John Snowden, John Smith, William
Ash, John Errington, Robert Atkins, William Colton, George Denham, Henry
Watson, Richard Wilson, Ralph Rymer, and Charles Carre.
§ Drake's History of York. 175.

SUBSEQUENT HISTORY. g]
have rendered him the blessing and the pride of his people, was a
low debauchee, a degraded prisoner of France, and the whole
object of his policy was to obtain from his people sums of money
to squander upon his mistresses and his vices; his ministers
were frequently profligate and unprincipled caballers; and his
people were either persecuted, or corrupted, or deceived, or
enslaved. From this period but few events have transpired in the gene
ral history of the district which merit a particular narration.
The history of its commerce will involve almost every occurrence
of importance, and to that department of the work the reader is
referred. When James II., by claiming the power of dispensing with
acts of parliament, and by his infatuated attempt to overturn
the Protestant religion for whose security and defence his people
had sustained the greatest calamities, and to establish upon its
ruins that papal system which repeated statutes of the legislature
had proscribed, had proved that he was proceeding upon a settled
plan for the complete subversion of the laws and the established
order of the kingdom, the inhabitants of this district united with
their fellow-countrymen in one simultaneous and successful effort
to recover their constitutional rights, and to accomplish their
deliverance from the galling yoke of despotism- and popery.
This unhappy monarch, so blinded by his obstinate and furious
bigotry, had excited the alarm and disgust of this county, by
arbitrarily deposing the protestant Lord Mayor of York with
several of the aldermen and other functionaries, and by appointing
in their places papists, who were not even freemem of the city.
Although the king retraced his steps, and thus endeavoured to
allay the dangerous ferment of the popular mind which his
temerity had excited, it became evidently necessary to terminate
his tyranny, and to expel him from his throne. And when the
intelligence was circulated, that the Prince of Orange as the
decided champion of the protestant faith was about to land in
England with a considerable army, the Deputy-Lieutenants of
Yorkshire held a consultation, and determined, upon the propo
sition of Sir Henry Goodricke, to convene a general meeting
of the county for the consideration of the measures which ought
to be adopted in the critical state of public affairs. Notices
were accordingly issued for a meeting on Thursday, Nov. 19,
1688. The folly of James was displayed to the last. A new

62 SUBSEQUENT HISTORY.
commission was received by the Clerk of the West Riding, u,
which the names of thirty Magistrates, and among the rest of
Sir H. Goodricke, were omitted — a measure which aggravated
the general exasperation of the people, and strengthened their
resolution to oppose the proceedings of the king. The county
meeting was held according to the summons, and the proposition
was submitted and adopted, " That there having been great
endeavours made by government of late years to bring popery
into the kingdom, and by many devices to set at nought the
laws of the land, there could be no proper redress for the many
grievances the nation laboured under, but by a free parliament;
that then was the only proper time to press a petition of that
sort ; and that the inhabitants of Yorkshire could not imitate
a better pattern than had been set before them by several lords
temporal and spiritual." In the midst of the proceedings a report
was circulated that the papists had risen ; Lord Danby and some
other noblemen immediately appeared in arms ; the contagion
spread like wild fire ; the militia under the command of Lord
Fairfax, Sir Thomas Gower, &c. united with the insurgents on
behalf of the Prince of Orange ; some soldiers in Tadcaster and
in other places assumed the same cause; and it was evident
that the reign of James II. had arrived at its termination. The
agitation of the district was now at its meridian ; watch and
ward were kept every night by the inhabitants of Leeds and the
other towns ; and couriers were incessantly traversing the king
dom with intelligence of the gradual progress of the glorious
revolution which was then on the eve of accomplishment. At
length William and Mary were formally acknowledged the
sovereigns of the British Isles ; and in the month of February,
In Leeds 1689, were proclaimed in the principal towns of the district with
on the 19th the usual solemnities, and amidst the joyful acclamations of con.
gregated thousands.
It will be seen by various testimonies which will be found in
the local histories, that the condition of the district at this period
was highly prosperous, and that the germs of its future import
ance were rapidly expanding into observation.
From the period of the Revolution we advance at once to that
of the rebellion in 1745, when the bold irruption of the Pretender
into England, at the head of the undisciplined but intrepid and
faithful Highlanders, involved the whole of the district in constcr-
nation and dismay. It is difficult indeed for us who live in these

SUBSEQUENT HISTORY. 63
times of internal peace and at the distance of almost a hundred
years from the period of actual war, in this happy country so sig
nally protected as it has been by the providence of God amidst
disruption of empires and the convulsions of the world, to form
any estimate of the terror* excited by the collection of armies to
oppose the march of invaders, who by a decisive victory over
veteran troops and a regular commander, had proved that they
knew how to conquer. It was at this period that a considerable
body of soldiers, under the command of General Wade, encamped
on the north of Leeds, between Sheepscar and Woodhouse; and
'from the absence of old trees at the hedgerows, it seems that
they appropriated for the use of their own fires, without scruple,
all the timber they could collect.f The event is commemorated
in the names Wade Lane, Camp Road, &c. in that portion of the
suburbs of Leeds. This encampment in itself is of no great con
sequence, but in one point of view it is highly interesting. It was
the last encampment in actual war within the limits of the British
empire, that has taken place on the island. Such a long period
of deliverance from the dreadful scourge of war has been expe
rienced in no other country in Europe, perhaps in the world.
From the Arctic ocean to the Mediterranean sea, from the Ura-
lian mountains to the rock of Gibraltar, every continental state
has been traversed by hostile armies, has resounded with the roar
of artillery and the horrid din of battle, has been strewed with
corpses and deluged with blood. But Great Britain has never
seen a hostile banner waving over her plains, her harvests have
never been trampled down beneath the hoof of an invader, her
habitations of peaceful industry have never been given to the
flames, nor have her cities been stormed by a brutal soldiery, and
* " I have conversed," says Dr. Whitaker, " with persons who on that
occasion were busily occnpied in hiding their plate and other valuables ; but
as no slaughter followed, all survived to dig up their treasures again, and
future antiquarians were deprived of the gratification which would have
attended the disinterment of spoons, tankards, tea-pots, and other uncouth
and unheard-of implements of domestic life in use at some remote period of
society." Loides and Elmete, p. 77.
f When the traveller enters Leeds from the north, he will perceive some
very large trees on the right hand after passing Sheepscar turnpike. Tradition
says that these trees were saved from the general destruction of timber by the
troops, by the owners agreeing to send a certain number of cart-loads of coal
in lieu of them. The same story is told of some large trees opposite the alms
houses at the top of Wade-Lane.

64 SUBSEQUENT HISTORY.
abandoned to the devastations of lawless avarice, cruelty, and lust.
We are by no means desirous of obtrading religious reflections
upon historic narrative, but we envy neither the head nor the
heart of that reader of these pages, whoever he may be, who does
not feel a similar glow of devout gratitude to that which enrap,
tured the mind of an ancient monarch long since gathered to the
dust of his fathers, and who does not with that royal poet exclaim,
" He hath not dealt so with any nation, and as for his judgments
we have not known them. Praise ye the Lord."
May this encampment be the last of a similar description
which shall ever exist on English ground ! May no hostile
disembarkation ever take place on our shores ! May Britom
never have to fight on their own soil, for their freedom, their
institutions, and their homes !

65

SECTION VI.
MODERN HISTORY.

The inhabitants of this district participated in the ardour
which flamed through the kingdom in 1745, to resist the restora
tion of popery and arbitrary power. They combined with their
patriotic associates in the county in raising large sums of money,
and in forming considerable bodies of soldiery for the defence of
the constitution, and the establishment of the house of Hanover
upon the throne. Their demonstrations of loyalty were however
rendered unnecessary by the decisive defeat of the rebels on the
field of Culloden, by the flight of the Petender, and by the
execution of the most influential and guilty leaders of the insur
rection. When the ever memorable, ever disgraceful, and ever deplor
able war with the American colonies broke out, this district was
the scene of considerable popular agitation. The appearance of 1778.
press gangs in the heart of the country ; * the immense increase
of the burdens imposed upon the nation ; the consequent preva
lence of distress ; the detestable principle upon which the war
was commenced, that a representative government may arbi
trarily tax an unrepresented people ; and the imprudence, the
obstinacy, the prodigality of the ministry at that time in power,
all combined to produce general dissatisfaction, and to arouse
the attention of every class of the community to the momentous
political questions which were advanced for public discussion.
The time of the American war may be considered as a most
important epoch in this district, it mas the date oftlie commence
ment of that spirit of political enquiry which has been progres-
*A press gang, in December, 1779, commenced operations in Leeds, and
seized a cropper named John Baldwin. This unfortunate man was so affected
with this occurrence that he afterwards hanged himself. A press gang had
appeared in York a short time previously, but had been compelled to leave
the city by the irritation and anxiety of the citizens.
K

66 MODERN HISTORY.
sively expanding and strengthening to the present day. The im.
portance of this fact requires no illustration in these eventful times,
Partially indeed this spirit had been excited a few years before
the hostilities began. The impolitic, vindictive, and unprinci.
pled persecution of John Wilkes (though a man for the descrip.
tion of whose character, it is impossible to find in the English
language terms of disgust and abhorrence sufficiently strong) had
excited considerable attention ; and accordingly we find that when
April 18. he was liberated from his long imprisonment in April 1770, the
event was celebrated in Leeds, Wakefield, Bradford, &c, with
the ringing of bells, fire-works, illuminations, and other demon.
strations of popular joy, and the names of Wilkes and Liberty, and
No. 45,* appeared waving in banners over the doors, or placarded
in the windows of most of the houses. After the commencement
of the American war, this spirit was cherished by the violence of po.
litical parties, and the acrimony of political dispute ; by the ap.
peals which were made by influential persons to the opinions, the
principles, and the verdict of the people ; and by the very mea-
sures which government adopted for the defence of the country
against the mighty coalition of the hostile powers. Many indi.
cations of this spirit appeared. When the Earl of Shelburne, one
of the secretaries of state, sent a communication to the mayor of
Leeds, recommending an association of young men to be formed
to learn the military exercise, the proposition was met, not with
immediate assent, but with considerable discussion, it was fairly
and sufficiently canvassed, nor was it adopted without vehement op
position from the inhabitants of the surrounding villages. Again
we find numerous freeholders of this district attending a meeting
Dec 30, at York in order to petition the House of Commons to investigate
and correct the gross abuses which prevailed in the expenditure
of public money. Another indicatiou of the same fact is to he
discovered in the increasing sale of newspapers, the Leeds Mer
cury for instance averaging two thousand per week, and the sale
of other papers also increasing.+ And if any further proof of the
* Wilkes commenced the publication of his notorious periodical, the Jfott
Britain, in June, 1782, ostensibly to expose the errors of the ministry. In N«
45, which appeared April 23, 1763, he made an insolent assault upon the king,
on account of which subsequent proceedings were instituted.
f Lord North calculated, that at this time twelve millions of newspapers were
printed every year; and in order to assist the revenue, he raised the price of
newspaper stamps from a penny to three half-pence each. The consequence was.

1779.

MODERN HISTORY. 67
statement which this paragraph is designed to illustrate be requi
red, it will be sufficient to remark, that at this period the aboli
tion of the abuses which had corrupted the system of the national
representation began to be discussed, and the term Radical Re
form came into common use.* From all these circumstances, and
!many others which our space will not allow us to detail, and which
'in fact are not essential to our argument, we are induced to con
clude, that to the epoch of the American war is to be ascribed the
' origin of that popular excitement relative to political topics, and
of those popular investigations into the state of parliamentary re
presentation, which in connexion with a similar spirit prevailing
sthrough the kingdom, and progressively pervading all classes of
ithe community to the present hour, has produced that mighty
'change which the last eventful year (1832) has witnessed, and by
iwhich an impulse has been imparted to the destinies of the Bri
tish Empire, which will be felt and perpetuated through the most
i distant ages of its duration.
i It would have been wonderful indeed if this spirit had not
i been excited in this district, when the distress of a large propor-
,that the price of newspapers which generally cost two-pence halfpenny, was
raised to three-pence each. As newspapers were conducted at that time, this
was quite enough to pay for them.
* It will not be uninstructive to know what were the views of Parliamentary
Reform entertained at this period in the county of York. On the sixteenth of
'January 1784, Mr. Duncombe presented a petition to the House of Commons
!from the freeholders of Yorkshire, setting forth "That the petitioners, sensible
of the original excellence of the constitution of this country, most ardently wish
to have it maintained upon the same genuine principles upon which it was
founded ; — that it is necessary to the welfare of the people, that the Commons
House of Parliament should have a common interest with the nation — that in
1 the present state of the representation of the people, the commons of this realm
are partially and inadequately represented, and consequently cannot have that
security for their liberties which it is the aim of the constitution to give them —
and therefore the petitioners again renew their earnest supplications to the
house, to take into their most serious consideration the present inadequate state
of the representation of the people in parliament, and to apply such remedy to
this great constitutional evil, as to the house may seem meet."
In thecourse of the debate on the petition, Mr. Pitt stated that " as for him
self he need not say that he was a friend to it (Reform.) Soon after his intro
duction to that house, he had declared his opinion as to the necessity of a parlia
mentary reform — that opinion he had supported in two successive sessions, and
the want of support had not made the least alteration in it."
Hansard's Pari. Hist vol. xxiv. p. 347.

68 MODERN HISTORY.
tion of its inhabitants towards the close of this calamitous contest
is considered. The prevalence of that distress produced several
1783. explosions of popular violence. In several of the towns the exas.
perated poor riotously assembled to demand a reduction in the
price of corn, wheat then selling in Leeds at seven shillings and
sixpence a bushel ; and on the market days they compelled the
dealers to sell both corn and meal at a rate which they themselves'
imposed. The strong hand of the law was required to quell these
useless outrages, and some of the deluded ringleaders became the1
victims of the executioner. The distress of the poor still conti-'
nued, their necessities became more urgent, and public subscripj
tions were opened in each of the towns of the district for their
relief. We mention one circumstance which was concomitant with
this depression, which we leave for the consideration of the reader
without comment or remark. The increase of crime became so
alarmingly evident, that meetings were called, and resolutions
were passed, to oppose the progress and to effect the suppression
of vice. But the plan was bad, the attempt was useless, and the
evil only took deeper root and obtained wider diffusion.
The tremendous political convulsion involved in the French
revolution not only shook every throne in Europe, and threatened
the subversion of the institutions and laws of every continental
state, but diffused agitation and tremor into the remotest provin
ces and the most secluded regions, and soon proved itself to he a
new and portentous era in the history of the whole civilized world,
Its influence extended to this, as well as every other province of
the British Empire, and involved every class of its inhabitants in
anxiety and alarm. There is reason to believe that a few of the
people in this vicinity caught the contagion of Gallic republican.
ism, and were desirous of witnessing the establishment of a de.
mocratic government upon the ruins of the constitution. But their
number was few, their influence was limited, their endeavours to
disseminate their principles were attended with very partial
success, and the impression which they produced upon the popu
lation iu general was either exaggerated by the fears of alarmists,
or misrepresented by the selfish malevolence of insidious men.
That it was necessary for government to guard with extreme
vigilance against the consequences likely to ensue from the
introduction of revolutionary and atheistic principles from France,
cannot be denied ; but it must also be acknowledged, that the
apprehensions of those who were devoted to the support of the

MODERN HISTORY. 69
existing administration were far more dreadful than was war
ranted by the actual state of the country ; and that the spirit
they sometimes displayed, and the measures they sometimes
adopted, were most violent, oppressive, and unjust. It was
almost impossible to indulge in any freedom of expression upon
political subjects, or to question, in the slightest degree, the
policy or the equity of any of the proceedings of government,
without immediately incurring the odium of treasonable attach
ment to the horrible system of spoliation, anarchy, impiety, and
blood, which had been established by ruffians and assassins in the
finest country of Europe. All public men whose opinions
accorded with the doctrines of the opposition in parliament, and
all ministers of religion who dissented from the established
church, were compelled, in these unhappy times, to exercise the
most vigilant caution, lest they should become obnoxious to the
jealous suspicion and prejudice of those by whom they were
surrounded. There is no proof that the conspiracy alledged to
have been formed against the British government, ever extended
its ramifications into this district. Intemperate, inflammatory,
and seditious publications were certainly widely circulated, and
for the sale of papers of this description an unfortunate inhabi
tant of Leeds was sentenced to two years imprisonment in York
Castle. Generally speaking, however, the people in this vicinity
were distinguished by preeminent loyalty and devotion to the
government. Corps of volunteers and yeomanry cavalry were
raised in Leeds, Bradford, Wakefield, and other places, to repress
internal insurrection as well as to defend against foreign invasion ;
and a very numerous body of these citizen soldiers from every
town in the district was reviewed on Chapeltown Moor, by
General Cameron, in the presence of sixty thousand spectators. June 27,
Large sums were subscribed in aid of the supplies which were 1795-
required for the defence of the kingdom ; the naval victories of
Howe, of Duncan, and of St. Vincent, were hailed with the
liveliest exhibitions of joy ; the measures of the government were
vigorously supported by every demonstration of confidence ; and
a patriotic ardour and a martial spirit simultaneously animated
the whole population. And at that appalling period in the
national history, when a civil war raged in Ireland, and the
French armies were collected on the shores of the Channel with
insolent menaces of invasion and conquest, the people of this
district united with their countrymen in preparing for the

70 MODERN HISTORY.
impending struggle, and in hurling defiance against the malig.
nant enemies of their country.
From the commencement of the first war with France to the
termination of the eighteenth century, the poorer inhabitants of
this district were frequently involved in the deepest distress. In
1794 the scarcity of employment and the high price of provisions
excited general anxiety, and the pressure of the evil was only par.
tially alleviated by benevolent subscriptions to supply the poor
with bread at reduced prices. At the beginning of the subsequent
year, wheat sold at from twelve to fourteen shillings a bushel ;
and the most influential inhabitants of Leeds and Bradford
honourably distinguished themselves by entering into a solemn
agreement to reduce its consumption in their families at least one
third, until it should have fallen to eight shillings a bushel. The
manufacturing districts at this season were frequently disturhed
by riots, and the habitations of the opulent were surrounded hy
multitudes uttering clamorous cries for bread. The disturbances
were not confined to the manufacturing, but extended to the
agricultural, portion of this district ; at Castleford the people
tumultuously seized upon a vessel laden with corn, and were only
dispersed by military interposition, and the capture of twelve of
the ringleaders.
But although employment again became more generally accessi
ble, and the necessaries of life were more easily procured, the dis
tress recurred with double violence, and to an appalling, extent, six
years afterwards. In January 1800, we find the poor reduced to
such a calamitous state by the high prices of provisions, that the
opulent inhabitants of Leeds again entered into a general subscrip
tion for their relief. But this most laudable measure only afforded
a temporary alleviation. The next month wheat again advanced
in price ; meat also became considerably dearer ; the advance con
tinued in May, and the unhappy people, goaded to violence by
starvation, disturbed the markets by their riotous proceedings,
In July the price of wheat advanced from forty two shillings to
fifty shillings per load of three bushels. Some infamous wretches
in this district, the disgrace and the disgust of their species,
attempted to make the calamity of the country subservient to
their own emolument by " forestalling and regrating'' in the
markets ; and so common was the occurrence of these nefarious
practices, that we find public advertisements and protestations
frequently issued against their perpetrators. Government inter-

MODERN HISTORY. 71
fered; a committee was appointed to deliberate upon the subject;
various remedial measures were suggested ; and the king himself
issued a proclamation recommending the greatest economy in the
use of grain, and charging all masters of families to reduce the
consumption of bread in their houses at least one third, and in no
case to suffer it to exceed one quartern loaf for each person In
the week. The royal recommendation was promptly acted upon
in this district, but without any material effect ; and the average
price of wheat rose to upwards of one hundred and eight shillings
a quarter. Parliamentary enactments to allow bounties on the
importation of various kinds of provisions, to prevent the use of
grain in the distillation of spirits and the manufacture of starch,
and to prohibit the sale of any bread until twenty-four hours
after it had been baked, were all inadequate to arrest the pro
gress of the scarcity, and wheat rose to upwards of eight pounds
per quarter. To extend this melancholy history to greater July, 1801.
length is unnecessary. It is sufficient to observe that the scarcity
produced discontent, and many nocturnal meetings were held in
different parts of the district by discontented individuals. The
excitement was allayed as the famine subsided, and intirely
disappeared when plenty was restored.
From this recital of calamity, we proceed to the description
of other events, which excited general attention and alarm
through the whole of this district, after an interval of eleven
years. Although these events in strict propriety ought to be
narrated in the History of Commerce, yet that we may preserve
the exclusive reference of that part of the work to its important
and extensive subject, we enter upon their narrative in this place.
In 1811 the operatives engaged in various branches of manufac
ture, exhibited an invincible opposition to the introduction of
particular articles of machinery, which they deemed to be destruc
tive to their prosperity by diminishing the demand for manual
labour, and throwing a considerable number of hands out of
employment. The disturbances first broke out in the county of
Nottingham, and soon assumed an alarming appearance of syste
matic insurrection which demanded the direct interference of
government. The spirit of riot and insubordination was rapidly
communicated to Cheshire, to Lancashire, and to Yorkshire ; and
in the beginning of the year 1812 it was so widely diffused
through this district as to warrant the most serious apprehensions
of the inhabitants. The machinery which was particularly

72 MODERN HISTORY.
obnoxious to the insurgents in this vicinity, was that used in the
gig mills for the shearing of woollen cloth, an operation which had
previously been performed by the hand. The malcontents
assumed the name of Ludds or Luddites, from an imaginary per,
son whom they affirmed to be their leader and instigator, and
wliose name was said to be Ned Ludd. To procure the arms
which were necessary to effect their illegal purposes, numerous
bands of them, bound by solemn oaths into onp formidable confe.
deration, prowled through the country by night, and compelled
the inhabitants to deliver into their possession the guns and other
weapons which had been provided for the defence of their dwel-
lings. The destruction of the dressing machines commenced in
the neighbourhood of Huddersfield, and the practice was soon
adopted in the neighbourhood of Leeds. Although early in the
month of January, the assemblage of a number of unknown men
with their faces blackened and armed with offensive weapons, was
dispersed by the magistrates before any outrage could be perpe-
Jan. 19. trated, a few nights afterwards the gig mill of Messrs, Oates,
Wood, and Smithson was set on fire and considerable damage was
done to the building and machinery ; the mill of Messrs Thomp.
March 23. son at Rawden was entered, and the obnoxious machinery was
destroyed ; a quantity of cloth of the value of five hundred pounds
which had been dressed by machinery, and belonged to Messrs.
Dickinson and Co., was cut into shreds in their dressing shops at
Leeds ; and a numerous body of men marched in regular divisions
against the factory of Mr. Foster at Horbury, and in a short time
destroyed the whole of the valuable machinery.
A general alarm now pervaded the district, and the Luddites
flushed with suceess, and with the secrecy with which they had
been able to conduct their operations, entertained the hope of inti
midating the manufacturers into the final abandonment of the
machines. On the night of Saturday, April 12, 1812, nearly two
hundred of these unhappy men, principally but not wholly cloth
dressers, surrounded the mill of Mr. William Cartwright at Raw-
folds, near Cleckheaton. Mr. Cartwright had prepared for the
hostile visit ; and with four of his workmen and two soldiers, he
determined to resist the lawless multitude. The assailants
marched to the attack in companies armed with pistols, hatchets
and bludgeons, and made several desperate attempts to break
open the doors and to force their way into the mill. They were
completely defeated, however, by the gallant little garrison, and

MODERN HISTORY. 73
were compelled after a contest of twenty minutes to retire in con
fusion, leaving two of their number mortally wounded upon the
field. The manufacturers of the district properly appreciated
the resolution of Mr. Cartwright, and the importance of his
successful opposition against the insurgents, and they presented to
him, as a token of their admiration and gratitude, the sum of
three thousand pounds, which they had raised by subscription.
The Luddites now determined upon a new and most nefarious
plan of operations. Finding that the proprietors of the factories
were able and ready to defend their property, they resolved to
assassinate some of the obnoxious mill owners, and thus to terrify
the whole body into an acquiescence with their terms. Thus
Mr. Horsfall, of Marsden, a considerable manufacturer, who
employed a quantity of the machinery, was shot in open day on
his return from Huddersfield market, and some other diabolical
'attempts at murder were made, but without the intended success.
1 A strong proof of the system of confederacy which prevailed
among these deluded men, is afforded by the fact, that although
a reward of two thousand pounds was offered for the apprehension
of the murderers of Mr. Horsfall, several months elapsed before
the actual assassins were discovered. The organization of the
Luddites was indeed at one time extremely formidable. Nume
rous societies, governed by secret committees, were united into
one confederation ; a horrible oath was administered to the
members; arms and ammunition were abundantly collected; the
practice of military discipline was introduced upon an extensive
scale ; and it became evident that the most vigorous measures
were imperatively demanded from the legislature by so dangerous
a system of rebellion and assassination. Government promptly
and effectually interposed ; a bill was brought into the House of
Commons, which rendered the administration of illegal oaths a
capital offence, and the power of the magistrates in the disturbed
districts was considerably augmented. During the month of
July, discoveries were made and information was acquired, prin
cipally by the agency of Joseph Radcliffe, Esq. an active and
intrepid magistrate, afterwards created a baronet for his services.
Before the close of the year, sixty-four persons were apprehended
and lodged in the castle of York ; a special commission was issued
for the trial of the prisoners ; and on the second of January, 1813,
the extraordinary assize was opened. Eighteen of these mise
rable offenders were condemned to die ; three of them, the mur-
L

74 MODERN HISTORY.
derers of Mr. Horsfall, were executed on Friday, Jan. 8, and
fourteen on the Saturday week afterwards. Besides these tit
mendous, but necessary examples of justice, many of the remaining
convicts were sentenced to different punishments, and the tran.
quillity of the district was restored.
Diabolical as were these excesses, and deeply guilty as were
the originators, abettors, and agents of this monstrous system of
violence and murder, it must be stated that great numbers of tit
poor were induced to lend themselves as ready tools to their
iniquitous leaders, by the immensely high prices' of provision),
the scarcity of employment, and the consequent prevalence ol
distress. Wheat, of the best quality, in August, 1812, sold for
nine pounds a quarter, and a serious riot consequently occurred
in Leeds. Headed by a virago, dignified for the occasion with
Aug. 18. the title of Lady Ludd, the populace furiously assailed the
dealers in the market ; they seized upon a considerable quantity
of corn, which they wantonly threw about the streets: and
repairing to the works of a miller at Holbeck, who had made
himself obnoxious to their violence, they did considerable damage
to the property upon his premises. The labouring classes of this
district were at this time in a most depressed and unhappy con.
dition — they could often with difficulty procure the necessaries,
to say nothing of the comforts, of existence — and they with
reason complained of the excessive burden of taxation, and the
frequent interruptions of manufacturing activity, involved by
a protracted and most expensive war. Under these circum.
stances, the spirit of outrage need not be wondered at, however it
may be condemned ; and while we denounce the atrocious crimes
of the populace, we may deplore that wretchedness which in a
great measure instigated to their commission.
A.D. 1815. The termination of the sanguinary wars of the French Revolu
tion and of the reign of Napoleon was hailed in this district with
unqualified exultation, and it was anticipated that an immediate
and permanent improvement would be effected in the general con
dition of the empire, by the abolition of a large proportion of the
national burdens, by the resuscitated prosperity of the agricultural
interest, and by the revival of manufactures and the unfettered
extension of trade. These brilliant hopes however were doomed
to disappointment ; peace did not bring the expected blessings in
its train; commerce was involved in melancholy stagnation; the
demand for labour rather diminished than increased; and the

MODERN HISTORY. 75
operative classes were involved in unprecedented and truly deplo
rable distress. Never was there a more impressive exhibition of
the horrible effects of long continued war, than in the misery and
discontent which pervaded the whole British Empire after the
peace which the decisive victory of Waterloo achieved. To the
unnatural and artificial state of things the war had produced — to
the inconsistent relative position of the leading interests of the
country it effected — and to the enormous incubus of taxation it
placed upon the vitals of national prosperity — the evils of public
distress, general agitation and popular insurrection are to be as
cribed. These evils in this and in other similar districts, increased
to a frightful magnitude and assumed a most ruinous appearance.
The people, ascribing the miseries under which they groaned to
; the conduct of their representatives in parliament in assenting too
^generally from interest or ignorance to the propositions of minis-
< ters, and conceiving that their condition could never be perma-
1 nently improved without a thorough reform in the constitution of
the House of Commons, assembled in vast numbers, and with
i resolute perseverance, to demand the change which they conceived
i the whole kingdom required. Seditious persons seized the oppor
tunity of diffusing their pestilent principles, and of rendering the
outcry for the abolition of useless places and pensions subservient
to their own nefarious purposes ; and infamous spies sent by go
vernment to acquire information of the schemes of the disconten
ted, became the active instigators of treason and rebellion. Among
these detestable agents, the most distinguished was a wretch whose
name was Oliver, and who seems to have been exactly qualified
for the atrocious part he was commissioned to perform. Assuring
his infatuated dupes, that the elements of revolution were prepa
red in every part of the kingdom, and that an immense multitude
had been regularly organized to effect the subversion of the go
vernment, he persuaded a number of the radical reformers in this
district and in its neighbourhood, to unite in the general conspi
racy, and to assemble under the character of delegates to arrange
the materials and the mode of a popular explosion. At Thornhill
Lees, about a dozen of these men, with the miscreant Oliver at
their head, met to deliberate on the means of accomplishing this June 6,
wicked object ; but in the midst of their consultations they were
surprised by Sir John Byng, the military commander of the dis
trict, and conveyed to Wakefield for examination, while their
instigator and ringleader was permitted to escape. With the

76 MODERN HISTORY.
exception of two persons who were detained under a Secretary of
State's warrant under the Habeas Corpus Suspension Act on a
charge of treason, all the prisoners were discharged after a long
examination before Earl Fitzwilliam, the Lord Lieutenant, and
a full bench of magistrates. The paltry insurrection near Hud.
dersfield, which took place two days after the meeting at Thorn.
hill Lees, and which was magnified by the cowardice of some and
the wily policy of others into an importance it never deserved, it is
not our province to describe. It is sufficient to state, that the men
apprehended on these occasions and brought to trial at York,
were all discharged ; so that adopting the language of the gentle.
man by whose penetration and perseverance the machinations of
Oliver were detected and exposed, " this marvellous sedition ter.
minated without the loss of a drop of human blood either in the
field or on the scaffold."*
By the continuance or revival of the distress of the manufac
turing population, by the circulation of pamphlets in which
sedition and blasphemy were generally identified, the agitationof
the country was maintained and increased, and the meetings con.
vened to petition for parliamentary reform were attended by such
immense multitudes, and assumed such a threatening appearance,
as to produce considerable dismay. The most imposing of these
A. D. 1819. meetings in this district were held on Hunslet Moor, near Leeds,
at Wakefield, at Dewsbury, and at Otley. The determination of
the existing ministry to resist the popular demands, was palpably
displayed by the removal of Earl Fitzwilliam from the Lord
Lieutenancy of the West Riding, because he had attended a
county meeting at York to petition for inquiry into what was
called the Manchester massacre ; an act of unnecessary folly, which
tended most unfortunately to increase, instead of suppressing the
popular commotions. The mad insurrection in the vicinities of
Huddersfield and Barnsley, in which a few silly men from the
dregs of the populace, without leaders, without order, without
assistance, and without arms, attempted to overturn the strongest
government in the world, we leave to other writers to record.
Neither have we any occasion to advert to the six famous bills
against factious meetings, military training, seditious and blas
phemous libels, &c. which were passed by the legislature to pre
vent the mischiefs which the ministry seemed to apprehend. In
* Baines's Hist, of the County of York, i. 618.

MODERN HISTORY. 77
this, as in innumerable other cases, tranquillity was established
and the commotion subsided upon the revival of commerce and
the abatement of distress. It is seldom that an industrious peo
ple break into open violence and insurrection when the labour of
their hands is sufficient to procure the necessaries of human life ;
but it is impossible for men to reflect or to act with calmness and
submission, when their frames are emaciated with hunger, and
their houses are filled with starvation and despair. For the
tumults which have occasionally arisen since the period of these
transactions on subjects connected with the manufacturing system,
the reader is referred to the fourth chapter of the present work.
The diffusion of political information and the habit of investi
gating political subjects in this district, have occasionally rendered
it the scene of very considerable agitation at the period of the
county elections. In 1807, when a contest took place for the
representation of the county unparalleled in the history of
England, every town and every village was roused to intense
excitement, and was the scene of incessant commotion. Lord
Milton, now Earl Fitzwilliam, who had just attained his major
ity, entered the lists against the Hon. Henry Lascelles, now Earl
of Harewood ; Mr. Wilberforce, the other candidate, being
supported at first by both parties, and his election being con
sidered secure. An immense majority of the manufacturers in
this district were zealously attached to the cause of Lord Milton,
and by their indefatigable exertions and their formidable numbers,
they gained for him a splendid victory over a preponderating
proportion of the aristocracy of the county. From the com
mencement to the close of the poll, the whole country was in a
state of tumult ; all other objects of attention were for the period
forgotten ; and the freeholders, as they departed in bodies for
the arena of political conflict, were surrounded by immense
assemblages of people, who applauded or hooted as the orange
or blue colours were displayed. A serious riot occurred in Leeds
in consequence of the imprudence and irritability of the mayor.*
A boy had offended him by shouting repeatedly and violently
"Milton for ever !" and he foolishly seized the offender in the May 16,
1807
sight of the populace. The people instantly rescued the boy,
and treated the mayor so unceremoniously, that in his anger or
trepidation he read the riot act, called out a body of cavalry, and
* R. R. Bramley, Esq.

78 MODERN HISTORY/
endangered the lives of the multitude and the peace of the town
by ordering the soldiers to scour and clear the streets. It was a
happy, and under all the circumstances of the case a most
remarkable fact, that though the military were frequently arrayed
to intimidate and to disperse tumultuous and riotous mobs in the
towns of the district, no lives were lost in the almost perpetual
collision. The poll was kept open fifteen days ; every thing that
unbounded wealth and unwearied labour could accomplish was
performed by the friends of the rival candidates ; the roads were
covered night and day with coaches, carriages, waggons, and
military cars, conveying the voters from the remotest corners of
the county ; and according to the detestable system which then
prevailed, immense sums were devoted to gratify the drunken
passions or unprincipled cupidity of the multitude. It is well
known, that after more than twenty-three thousand freeholders
had given their votes, it appeared that for Wilberforce, there
were 11,806— for Milton, 11,177— and for Lascelles, 10,989.
The intelligence of their victory was hailed by the inhabitants
of this district with every demonstration of rapturous joy ; and
they chaired their favourite by proxy, amidst the ringing of
bells, the blazing of bonfires, and the acclamations of triumphal
processions. It is sincerely to be hoped that it will never again
be recorded in British history, that more than two hundred
thousand pounds were expended in a fortnight by two candidates
for the representation of an English county.
Nineteen years after this memorable contest, another election
for the county took place which partially belongs to the history
of this district. When the corrupt borough of Grampound was
divested of the elective privilege, and the forfeited franchise was
transferred to Yorkshire, which thus acquired the right of send
ing four representatives to parliament instead of two, considerable
anxiety pervaded the county relative to the gentlemen who
should be intrusted with the management of its affairs in the
Nov. 1825. national legislature. Richard Bethell, Esq., of Rise, who had
been High Sheriff for the county in 1823, was invited to become
a candidate by a numerous and respectable body of freeholders,
and he acceded to their request. Richard Fountayne Wilson,
Esq., of Ingmanthorpe and Melton, who had been High Sheriff
in 1807, and who had distinguished himself by his munificent
Dec. 1825. benefactions to Leeds, also accepted a similar invitation from his
friends ; and William, now the Honourable William, Duncombe,

MODERN HISTORY. 79
Esq., then member of Parliament for Great Grimsby, obeyed a Dec. 1825.
similar call. Lord Milton, then in London, declared that he
should again tender his services to his constituents ; and the
Whigs by whom he was supported, believing that the greater
number of the freeholders were in their favour, and deeming it
desirable not to have the majority of the representatives against
them, transmitted a requisition to Lord Morpeth at Castle
Howard, but that young nobleman refused to comply with the
application on acconnt of circumstances which would not justify
him in attempting to support the great and unavoidable expenses
of a contested election.* In the. mean time Mr. Stuart Wortley Jan. 1826.
thought it necessary to apprise the freeholders that he should
again be a candidate for their suffrages, and there is little doubt
but that he would have stood a contest, had he not been called
to the house of peers by the title of Lord Wharncliffe shortly
before the time of election.
We now arrive at that part of the history of this election,
which immediately belongs to our district. On the thirtieth of
May, the day before the prorogation of parliament, the Trustees
of the Mixed and White Cloth Halls in Leeds assembled, and
unanimously resolved to request John Marshall, Esq. of Head-
ingley, to become a candidate for the county ; but that gentleman,
before he knew of their intention, had been solicited by some of
the most influential Whigs to offer himself to the freeholders, and May 29,
published an address for their suffrages and support. On the
third of June, the Trustees of the Leeds Cloth Halls, accompanied
by several other gentlemen, presented to him a requisition signed
by more than two thousand freeholders ; and Mr. Marshall, in
coincidence with his previous address, instantly complied with
their wishes. Thus there were now five candidates in the field,
Mr. Duncombe and Mr. Wilson, Tories ; Mr. Bethell, a moderate
Tory ; and Lord Milton and Mr. Marshall, Whigs.
The Candidates commenced their canvass by addressing an
assembly of from fifteen to twenty thousand persons in the Mixed June 6.
Cloth Hall at Leeds; on the same day they delivered their
opinions to the inhabitants of Huddersfield, and on the ensuing
Thursday they spoke from the steps of the Piece Hall at
Bradford.

* Speeches and addresses of the Candidates for the representation of the
County of York in the year 1826, published at the Leeds Mercury Office, p. 20.

80 MODERN HISTORY.
June 12. On the day of nomination, between twenty and thirty thou.
sand people assembled in the castle yard at York, the High
Sheriff, the Hon. Marmaduke Langdale, superintending the
proceedings of the assembly. Lord Milton was nominated by Sir
Francis Lindley Wood, and the proposition was seconded by Mr,
Strickland. Mr. Bethell was nominated by Mr. Beverley of
Beverley, and the proposition was seconded by Mr. Morritt of
Rokeby. Mr. Wilson was nominated by Mr. Hall, the' Mayor
of Leeds, and the proposition was seconded by Mr. Field,
Mr Duncombe was nominated by Sir John Lister Kaye,
and the proposition was seconded by Sir William Foulis Mr.
Marshall was nominated by Sir George Cayley, and the propose
tion was seconded by Mr. Walker. The shew of hands produced
no decision as to the choice of the freeholders, and it seemed that
a contest was inevitable. Late in the evening of the day, how:.
ever, Mr. Bethell announced his intention of retiring from a
contest which could not have been carried on without involving
him in ruinous expenses. His friends, notwithstanding this
annunciation, made the most active exertions to provide a fund
sufficient to procure his return, and the consequence was, that on
the day of election, some thousands of freeholders proceeded to
York to be ready for a poll. But Mr. Bethell was firm in his
purpose of receding ; and Lord Milton and Messrs. Marshall,
June 20 Wilson, and Duncombe, were declared to be duly elected. It must
1826. not here be omitted, that although on this occasion there was no
contest, but only the preparation for one, the expenses of the four
candidates amounted to no less than one hundred and twenty
thousand pounds.
We have been thus particular in sketching the proceedings
of this election, not only because of the vast interest which it
excited in this vicinity, and because a resident in the neighbour
hood of Leeds, and one of the most extensive manufacturers of
the Riding, was thus returned to parliament, but because the
spirit which was then excited, and the strength which was then
displayed by the supporters of Mr. Marshall in this district, were
productive of the most important consequences, and involved the
origin of these events which have recently transpired and which
have effected a wonderful change in the political state of this part
of the country.
The next County Election took place in June 1830. On this
occasion, Lord Milton announced to the freeholders his determi-

MODERN HISTORY. 81
nation, on account of the advanced age of his father, to retire
from the representation of the county of York, after having
served it in parliament twenty-three years. And Mr. Marshall
declared the same determination, on account of his advanced age, July 1.
the great labour which devolved upon him in the discharge of
his official responsibilities, the late hours in which the business of
the House of Commons was transacted, and the prospect of
frequent dissolutions of parliament. The whigs of this district
were the means of bringing forward one of the most distinguished
statesmen of the kingdom, and certainly the most powerful orator
in parliament. The propriety of electing Henry Brougham, Esq.
was first suggested in the Leeds Mercury ; and it had no sooner
been- mentioned, than it became evident that his return was
indubitably certain. Lord Morpeth was associated by the same
party with Mr. Brougham ; and on the twenty-third of July, a
numerous meeting was held at Etridge's Hotel in York, when it
was unanimously determined to invite both those distinguished
individuals to appear as candidates for the representation of the
most numerous and important constituency in the empire. Lord
Morpeth and Mr. Brougham both acceded to the call, and their
friends in this district immediately adopted the necessary
measures to secure their election. The Honourable William
Duncombe also announced his intention of again proposing him
self to the freeholders — Mr. Bethell too acceded to the wishes of
his numerous friends — and Martin Stapylton, Esq. aspired to the
honour of entering parliament as the member for Yorkshire.
Thursday, August 5th, was appointed for the day of election.
With whatever warmth the party of Mr. Brougham and
Lord Morpeth might be assumed in other portions of the county,
it is certain that this district afforded the greatest number of
their friends, and the most enthusiastic adherents of their cause.
In Leeds, the arrangements of their energetic supporters were
formed with such ability, prosecuted with such perseveranee, and
attended with such success, that almost the whole strength of the
district, and even of the Riding, was arrayed beneath their
banners. And when the day of decision arrived, an immense
number of voters from this part of the county, in every kind of
vehicle, proceeded to York, to place the candidates they regarded
as the champions of popular rights at the head of the poll. When
the High Sheriff, the Honourable Edward Petre, entered the
castle yard, about twenty thousand persons were present ; when

82 MODERN HISTORY.
the shew of hands was called for, Mr. Stapylton was left in. a
wretched minority, and the poll which he demanded only served
to illustrate the comparative strength of the candidates and their
friends. At three o'clock on the day after the nomination)
the proceedings were closed; one thousand four hundred and
sixty-four votes were registered for Lord Morpeth ; one thousand
two hundred and ninety-five for Mr. Brougham ; one thousand
one hundred and twenty-three for Mr. Duncombe ; one thousand
and sixty-four for Mr. Bethell ; and ninety-four for Mr. Stapyh
ton. It must here be mentioned to the honour of the inhabitants
of this district, that those of them who repaired to York to sup.
port the popular candidates, defrayed their own expenses, instead
of encouraging, or even permitting that flagitious system of
ruinous extravagance, reckless profusion, and detestable de.
bauchery, which had prevailed to a most deplorable extent on
similar occasions, and had involved a departure from upright
principle, as well as an immense sacrifice of property.
We must rapidly hasten over subsequent scenes and events
which every reader vividly retains in his recollection, that we
may terminate this part of our work, already too protracted for our
limits. When the first Reform Bill was lost notwithstanding
the most strenuous efforts of the Grey administration, and when
parliament was dissolved that a new appeal might be made to the
principle and voice of the nation, the liberal party in this district;
vastly increased in numbers and in influence, with energies effec
tually organised and power systematically directed, was the means
of securing the return of four county members favourable to the
bill, in the persons of Lord Morpeth, Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Mr,
Strickland, and Mr. Ramsden. And in that memorable and
appalling period of suspense, when Lord Grey and his coadjutors
appeared likely to be divested of office, and the cause of Reform
to be in imminent jeopardy, this district was preeminently dis-
tinguished above all others in the county, by its loud and effective
remonstrances with the highest authorities in the realm, on the
impolicy and infatuation of resisting the demands of the empire,
and blasting its hopes of the renovation of its constitution. A
more impressive scene was never presented in Great Britain, than
when a hundred and thirty thousand individuals assembled at
Wakefield, all devoted to one object and animated with one
feeling, and resolutely, yet peaceably and legally determined to
effect that great consummation for which they had so zealously

MODERN HISTORY. 83
laboured, and which they had so earnestly desired. To pursue
this narrative to a greater extent, would be to trench upon the
history of the individual towns which are included in our plan.
We must content ourselves with observing that the local interests
of this district are now formally represented in parliament, in
virtue of the Reform Act, by five members returned by its three
most important towns. May the mighty revolution which has
been effected, permanently and progressively subserve the promo
tion of its welfare, the prosperity of its manufactures, and the
stability of its happiness !
We have thus rapidly, and we hope perspicuously, detailed
the history of our district from the age of its primitive inhabi
tants. We have seen it, in the time of the Britons, covered with
forests, without any of the demonstrations of civilized life; and
inhabited by hordes of ferocious and predatory barbarians. We
have seen it in the time of the Romans, assuming the aspect of
a rich and cultivated province, traversed by mighty roads, adorned
with populous cities, and governed by the regular authority of
imperial law. We have seen it, on the ruin of the mighty empire
of which it formed a constituent part, devastated by the hostile
tribes of the north, overrun by the savage invaders of Germany
and Denmark, the theatre of sanguinary contests, as well as the
scene of royal residences, the subject of all the alternations of
tranquillity and war. We have seen it in the time of the
Normans, desolated by one of the most execrable tyrants whose
name has defiled the page of history, and parcelled out, lands and
inhabitants equally the property of the conquerors, among cowled
monks or armed chieftains. We have seen it, the battle field
upon which rival factions decided their quarrels at the point of
the sword, and elevated or dethroned their phantoms of tempo
rary royalty. We have seen it, during the progress of those
mighty changes which overthrew the cumbrous fabric of papal
superstition, and permitted the human mind to emerge from the
dungeon of darkness in which it had for ages been immured.
We have seen it again the place of conflict between privilege and
prerogative, between royalty and republicanism, between tyranny
and freedom ; the houses of its nobility transformed into for-
tressess, and its towns into garrisons ; and its peaceful vallies
resounding with the thunder of artillery and the din of arms. We
have seen it recovering from its depression, gradually assuming
the aspect of an opulent manufacturing and commercial region,

84 MODERN HISTORY.
its hamlets expanding into villages, its villages into towns,' and its
towns into emporiums of wealth, intelligence, and industry ; its
barren heaths covered with cultivation ; its vallies adorned with
beautiful villas ; all its natural capabilities improved to the
utmost, and the produce of its labour and skill contributing to the
comfort of the most distant regions of the habitable globe. We
have yet to advert to particulars in its history still more im
portant ; its manufactures, its literature, its benevolence, its
religion, the progressive increase and comparative condition of its
population, have yet to be described, and innumerable statements
have yet to be made of equal moment to the philosopher, the
philanthropist, and the christian. Few other districts in the world
can present such varied and such instructive subjects of investi
gation, and none to its inhabitants of such paramount interest
Aware of the difficulty of our task, we shall proceed in our
narratives, esteeming ourselves more than repaid for the arduous
labour involved in our undertaking, if we can subserve the disse
mination of knowledge and of charity among our fellow-citizens,
and thus secure that approbation which it is our ambition and
will be our honour to obtain.

85

CHAPTER II.
DOMESTIC HISTORY OF EACH OF THE PLACES IN THE DISTRICT.

SECTION I.— THE TOWN OF LEEDS.
We commence this Chapter with an historical description of
the Borough and Liberty of Leeds. This district comprehends
eleven townships, Leeds, Armley, Beeston, Bramley, Hunslet,
Holbeck, Headingley with Burley, Farnley, Potternewton,
Chapel AUerton, and Wortley. From the extremity of the
township of Chapel AUerton to the extremity of the township of
Farnley, the line of distapce exceeds seven miles.
To enter upon an elaborate demonstration of the high anti
quity of the town of Leeds, is totally unnecessary after some of
the preceding details. It has been already shewn that a Roman
station existed at Leeds, that the Roman road from Calcaria to
Cumbodunum passed through the centre of the town, and that a
Roman ford passed through the river a little to the east of the
site of the present bridge.
We have already also stated our conviction, that the sup
position entertained by some sanguine antiquaries of the ante-
Roman existence of Leeds, is unworthy of attention. The appel
lation Loidis is confessedly Saxon, and is either derived from
the Saxon hold, a people, or is to be considered as the genitive
of Loidi, the supposed name of the first Saxon possessor of the
place. Of the dimensions, of the population, and of the general
character of Leeds in the Saxon times, nothing is known but by
implication. It probably consisted, like other Saxon towns, of
a collection of houses built of wood, or of mud, wattles, and
straw, stone being then exclusively employed for religious edifices
or monumental purposes ; and the windows of these lowly habi-

86 LEEDS.
tations were constituted, not of glass, but of panels of horn, fixed
into wooden frames. It seems almost certain, that even in
these ancient and unenviable times, a street ran in the line of
Briggate, a word indubitably of Saxon antiquity, and for the
same reason it may be concluded, that streets also existed on the
site of the present Kirkgate and Swinegate. The Saxon church
occupied the spot upon which the present old church has been
built, but not a single vestige of it now remains, and no founda
tion has ever been discovered by which its limits and character
can be ascertained.
From the notice of the place in the Doomsday Book, Leeds
appears at the period of that compilation to have been rather a
farming village than a considerable town. Of that notice the
following is a translation. — " In Ledes, ten carucates of land,
and six oxgangs to be taxed. Land to six ploughs. Seven
thanes held it in the time of King Edward, for seven manors,
Twenty-seven villanes and four sokemen, and four bordars have
now there fourteen ploughs. There is a priest and a church,
and a mill of four shillings, and ten acres of meadow. It has
been valued at six pounds, now seven pounds." *
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 127. Whenever a quotation is made
from the Doomsday Book in this work, Bawdwen's translation is used.
Villanes were so called, either asBlackstone says from vilis, mean; or as
Coke says, from villa, because they chiefly lived in villages, employed in
occupations of the basest kind. They generally belonged to lords of manors,
and were of two kinds — villanes regardant, that is annexed to the manor or
land— and villanes in gross, that is annexed to the person of the lord, and
transferable by deed from one individual to another. They could not leave
their lord without his permission ; and if they either ran away or were pur
loined, they could be reclaimed wherever they might have taken refuge.
They occupied indeed small portions of land to support themselves and their
families, but it was at the mere will of the lord, who might dispossess them at
his pleasure — and it was upon villane services, i. e. to carry out dung, to hedge
and ditch, and to perform the meanest drudgery. These services were not
only base, but uncertain — a villane could acquire no property either in land
or goods which the lord might not seize and appropriate to his own use when
ever he thought proper. Their children were in the same state of bondage
with themselves.
Sokemen, or Socmen, were cultivators of the ground, who, as their name
imports, were free, and held lands from the king or any other proprietor, upon
the condition of performing certain definite services. Their freedom was
guaranteed upon the performance of these services ; and it was their privilege
' that no one could impose upon them any other services than those which
they were under obligation to fulfil, nor institute any proceedings against

LEEDS. 87
From this notice it would appear, that Leeds in the Saxon
times did not contain a population of more than three hundred
souls ; for no principle of computation will allow a higher number
of persons to be attributed to the families of the individuals
mentioned in the survey, together with the subordinate labourers
or others they might have employed. And if the population of
Leeds is thus to be estimated, it is very improbable that the
whole parish should have contained more than thrice the number
which has been ascribed to the town. It further appears, that
all the land in the immediate vicinity of the town was in a state
of cultivation ; no mention is made of either wood or waste ; the
proportion of only ten acres of meadow must be regarded as
astonishingly small, and can only be accounted for by supposing
that at this period the horses and cattle were wintered in the
open air ; * and the produce of the land which was under tillage,
from the wretched state of husbandry and the system of oppres
sion which generally prevailed throughout the kingdom, must
have been exceedingly limited. The seven Thanes mentioned in
the survey were a kind of Saxon esquires ; the other individuals
designated by the names which have been repeated, were occupiers
of land under different tenures ; while of the proportion and
condition of the inferior servants, no accurate estimate can be
formed. The priest was probably the most influential person
among the inhabitants ; his house most likely was the best ; and
the mill, a humble edifice with the rudest machinery, to prepare
the corn for the food of the inhabitants.
It may therefore be concluded,, that Leeds in the Saxon times
consisted of three wretched lanes, the humblest and meanest
possible representations of streets, with a population of two or
them out of the manor to which they appertained. Some of the king's soke-
men were very opulent, and so were some of those attached to the great
barons ; but the majority were such as the Saxons called lesser Thanes, the
Danes young men, and we yeomen, being free of blood and fit for honourable
service. Bordars were boors or husbandmen, holding some land for the purposes
of husbandry, and residing in cottages — and were so called from Bard, a
cottage. Their condition was less servile than that of the villanes, and they
held their tenements and lands on condition that they should supply then-
lords with poultry and other small provisions for his family and retainers.
Bawdwen's Glossary of Doomsday Book. See also a most valuable paper of
Dr. Kuerden's, printed in Baines's History of Lancashire, i. 66, &c.
* See Whitaker's Loid and Elm. p. 5.

88 LEEDS.
three hundred semi-barbarians, the rude cultivators of the soil
upon which they vegetated, with seven Thanes to hold them in
the trammels of dependence, with a priest to rivet the fetters of
superstition, and a church in which to behold the unintelligible
mummeries which in those days of darkness were dignified with
the prostituted name of Christianity. What a contrast to the
appearance, the condition, and the population of the present
Leeds ! What a cause for gratitude, for pleasure, and yet for
anxiety, is to be discovered in the mighty change !
After the preceding description it may be safely affirmed that
the conjecture of a learned, though upon one subject an over
sanguine antiquary, that some of the Saxon monarchs resided
at Leeds,* is without the shadow of a probable foundation.
Although Bede speaks of Egfrid and Osfrid, kings of North
umberland, who had their residence in Loidis, the phrase of that
ancient writer beyond all doubt was used to designate the country
of Loidis, and not the town. The royal residence to which
allusion is thus made, we have already seen was situated at
Osmundthorpe. That Leeds soon after the Conquest was given to Ilbert de
Lacy, to whom we have alluded in a preceding section, is evident
from the Doomsday book, in which compilation it is enumerated
among the possessions of that powerful baron. It is supposed
that Ilbert did not long retain the manor of Leeds in his hands,
because the church, we find, in 1089, to have been the property
of Ralph Paganel, by whom it was given to the priory of the
Holy Trinity at York, and the manor itself, as we shall presently
have occasion to see, belonged at no very distant period to the
same family. For these reasons it has been concluded,t and
certainly with considerable probability, that Leeds was granted
to the family of the Painells, or Paganels, by Ilbert de Lacy, soon
after it had been constituted a part of his own extensive domains.
The Paganels, therefore, may be supposed to have held Leeds
under the Lacies, who, as the superior lords of the district,
resided in the castle of Pontefract.
That there was a castle at Leeds soon after the Conquest, is
certain ; and if the supposition made in the preceding paragraph
be entertained, it may be further stated that this fortification was
reared by the Paganels soon after they obtained the manor, to
* Thoresby's Ducat, xi. f Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete, p. 6.

LEEDS. 89
secure their possessions, and to establish their authority. What
ever, however, might have been the origin and the date of the
castle,, it unquestionably stood upon Mill Hill, at a convenient
distance from the river, and upon a gentle acclivity from its
banks ; with its donjon and exterior walls and towers, according
to the Norman system of fortification, it no doubt gave dignity,
importance, and protection to the town ; and enabled its lords,
with the usual habitude of feudal despotism, to domineer over
their serfs and slaves. The castle was surrounded with an
extensive park long since broken up, although its name is still
retained, and its existence is still commemorated, in Park Lane,
Park Row, Park Square, and Park Place. Two historical facts
demonstrate that this castle must have been a place of conse
quence and strength. It was besieged by King Stephen in his
march towards Scotland in 1139 ; and two hundred and sixty
years afterwards, as we have already related, it was the scene of
the temporary confinement of Richard II. prior to his barbarous
murder at Pontefract. At what period, or by what means, the
castle of Leeds was destroyed, cannot be discovered. Thoresby
states* that it was the tradition of his time, that the old bridge
was built out of its ruins. This, however, could not have been
the case. The old bridge and the chantry connected with it,
were certainly, as we shall presently prove, in existence in 1376 ;
but the date of the imprisonment of Richard II. in the castle, is
to be assigned to the twenty-fourth year afterwards, viz. in 1399.
The castle then could not have been destroyed until some time
after the erection of the bridge. It may have been abandoned by
its proprietors to the violence of the tempest, to the ravages of
time, and the fury of hostile invasion ; and its materials may have
been applied by the growing population of the town, to the con
struction of other buildings of convenience, of commerce, or of
religion, until the walls of the once proud and formidable edifice
were completely subverted, and their very foundations effectually
concealed beneath the ruins and accumulations of ages.
That from the era of the Conquest to the reign of John, Leeds
had rapidly increased in population and consequence, is demon
strated by the very curious charter granted at the latter period
by Maurice Paganel, the mesne lord, to the burgesses of the town.
In our reference to this charter, we shall adopt the same plan
* Thoresby's Ducat. 77.
N

90 LEEDS.
which we shall pursue on similar occasions, and shall present a
summary of its provisions and stipulations in the most lucid
arrangement we can form, and in the most intelligible language
we can select.
First, it appears, from this charter, that there was in Leeds,
1807-8. at this time, an officer called a Praetor, improperly called by the
translator a Mayor, who was a mere delegate of the lord, whose
office was to superintend the internal economy of the town, and
to collect and pay the rent or revenue to the lord annually at
Pentecost — and who having thus performed his duty, was removed
from his office and another was appointed in his stead according
to the pleasure of the lord, with this proviso, that a burgess
should have the preference. It is to be observed at the same
time, that this office was not conferred upon the ground of merit,
but upon that of superiority of the price paid for the honour—
" the burgesses," says the charter, " shall have the nearest claim,
provided they will give as much for the office as another."
The jurisdiction of this Prsetor extended to the superintend.
ence of the transfer of land in the manner hereafter to be
described, to a presidency in trials concerning municipal offences,
and to the reception of fines from the tenants of the burgesses
under particularly specified circumstances.
The fundamental grant of this charter was free burgage to
the burgesses of Leeds, together with their tofts (viz. the home
steads, the adjoining gardens, and the usual appendages of
houses) and half an acre of land attached to each in fee — but the
tax of sixteen pence was to be paid to the lord, for each toft and
the land connected with it.
These burgage lands might be disposed of to any individual
or party, except to a religious house, and "saving the lord's
superiority and the charter of the covenant." But the liberty of
transferring interest in these burgage lands was saddled with this
curious proviso—" the seller was to surrender the land into the
hands of the Praetor or Mayor, with the payment of one penny,
and then the Praetor was to deliver it to the purchaser as if the
gift of the lord, with a warranty against all men, for which the
purchaser was to pay a penny."
Since it seems that population had so considerably increased,
that a greater number of buildings was required for their accom
modation than a house on each toft could supply, the burgesses
were allowed to dispose of fractions of their tofts, no doubt that

LEEDS. $1
several residences might be erected on the site of one original
toft — and it was provided that whoever should purchase and
enter upon the possession of a portion of a toft, should have the
same privileges within the borough, as though he were the owner
of the whole. And the tenants of any burgess who had different
houses in his toft, should be free to dispose of or to purchase any
commodities within the borough, provided always that the person
residing in the principal messuage should pay a yearly fine of
fourpence to the Praetor. Such a person thus paying such a fine,
was accounted as free as a burgess.
The legislation instituted by this charter relative to trans
gressions or mutual injuries, is very curious. It ordained that if
a charge be brought against any burgess before the Praetor or
Mayor, the full denial of the defendant should be deemed a suffi
cient answer to the accusation — if such a denial could not be
made, the defendant should be at the mercy of the Praetor, but
upon payment of the adjudged forfeiture, should recover his com
petency as a witness — and if such a denial be made, but not fully
substantiated, the defendant should lose his cause, but with the
same proviso as in the preceding case. If a burgess were im
pleaded for an outrage or for the shedding of blood, he was to
clear himself from the charge by the oath of seven compurgators ;
if no blood had been shed, by three compurgators ; but if a burgess
be impleaded by a burgess for the same, by twelve compurgators.
The privileges conferred upon the burgesses, included all the
rights, liberties, and customs enjoyed by the burgesses of Roger
de Lacy — (the chief lord) at Pontefract. It was also declared
that no burgess should be compelled to go out of the borough for
any plea or plaint, but only for those of the crown. It was further
ordained, that if any stranger accepted an oath from a burgess, he
should incur the heaviest forfeiture ; and that if a stranger owed
a debt to a burgess, it should be lawful for such burgess to
distrain upon his goods any day of the week, without leave of the
Praetor or Mayor, except on fair days.
At the same time the penalty inflicted upon any deficiency
in the payment of the lord's revenue, was excessively severe.
That penalty was arranged upon this proportion, for every far
thing of defalcation, the penalty was five shillings and a farthing;
for every half-penny, ten shillings and a half-penny, and so on.
One privilege granted to the burgesses in this charter appears
in these days sufficiently ludicrous. It was that the burgesses

92 LEEDS.
should be permitted to bake in the lord's oven * according to
custom. Another strange privilege is memorable, as it shews the feel.
ing exemplified towards women in those days, and as it also
furnishes a striking trait in the manners of the times— it was
that no woman who was to be sold into slavery should pay tribute
— i. e. the transfer of sucli goods and chattels + was not to he
saddled with the usual tax extorted from the sale of other com
modities — what must be the feeling of the ladies of modern times
upon the perusal of such a clause as this ?
As might be expected, this charter recognizes those monstrous
superstitions, which entered into the very essence of the judicial
proceedings of the Normans. For instance, if a burgess were
impleaded for larceny, he cleared himself from the charge of the
first offence by thirty-six compurgators — but if he were impleaded
a second time, he purged himself by the water ordeal or by
single combat.
The highly prosperous condition of Leeds at this period,
already demonstrated by the fact that several houses were obliged
to be erected upon one toft to supply accommodation to the inha
bitants, is still more clearly pointed out by two other very
remarkable and striking indications. First it appears, that by
some mechanical process, whose nature it is impossible now to
ascertain, the Aire Jiad already been made navigable — and
secondly, it is evident that the inhabitants of the town had
availed themselves of their station and their protection, to carry
on some traffic in the way of barter and exchange. For it was
stated to be one of the privileges of the burgesses, to comity
grain and all other goods by land or by mater wherever they
pleased, without toll or any other imposition whatever, unless the
transit of the goods was prohibited by the lord or his bailiff. It
needs no demonstration, that if these goods were transported by
water, the river must have been made navigable by dams or some
other contrivances, for the fall of water in the neighbourhood of
* This public oven, this " commune furnum," remained at Kirkgate end
for some centuries after this period. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was
farmed of the crown at 12 pounds per anu. though said to be worth de claro
120 pounds per ami.
f Another proof that in times of barbarism and corrupt religion, females
are never permitted to occupy their just place in society, as the companions
and equals of the lords of the creation.

LEEDS. 93
Leeds is too great to allow of the passage even of the boats of
the period without some such arrangement — and the export of
the grain and other goods (alia mercimonia) could never have
been referred to, had there not been some degree of trade. That
trade may have been, and must, in the circumstances of the
kingdom, have been comparatively despicable, and probably
referred to a few diminutive towns or paltry villages down the
streams of the Aire and Calder to the Ouse ; but still even this
trade must have involved some degree of agricultural assiduity,
of security, and of opulence.*
There can be no doubt that this prosperity must have arisen in
a great measure from the protection afforded by the vicinity of
the castle from the plundering excursions of the freebooters of
the times ; and that the charter which has thus been analised,
was conferred upon the inhabitants of the town by a family, who
by frequent, and, most likely, habitual residence among them,
had contracted a patriotic attachment to their interests. Irra
tional and detestable as the arrogant assumption of the donors of
this charter must appear to the freedom and intelligence of the
present age, the privileges conferred upon the burgesses must
have had a beneficial influence upon their general condition ; and
by slightly elevating them above a state of servile dependence,
must have proportionally improved their principles and character.
Having referred to the Paganels, as the resident lords of the
place, we shall now briefly recapitulate the successive possessors
of the manor of Leeds until the present day.
Either in or soon after the time of Maurice Paganel, who
bestowed the charter we have just described, this manor reverted
to the chief lords of the fee, so that in the eighteenth year of the
reign of Henry III. as part of the estate of Ranulph, Earl of A. D. 1234.
Chester, it was granted to Hugh de Albenei, Earl of Arundel,
son of Mabel, the second of his four sisters, and co-heirs. This
earl dying without issue, it seems again to have reverted to the
family of Earl Ranulph, upon whose fourth sister Hawise and her
heirs the earldom of Lincoln was conferred. This is rendered
probable by the fact, that the next mention made of Leeds, proves
*That Dr. Whitaker was generally prejudiced, and often inaccurate, we
have too frequently occasion to deplore. Let him not however be despoiled
of the praise which is justly due to his diligence and learning, both of which
are demonstrated in the attention which he has bestowed upon the barbaric
and almost unintelligible Latin of this curious charter. Loid. and El. p. 6.

94 LEEDS.
it to have been in the possession of the Lacies, John de Lacy,
first earl of Lincoln of that family, having been advanced to that
honour by his marriage with Margaret, daughter of Robert de
Quincy, by the Lady Hawise above-mentioned. In the thirty-
fifth year of the reign of Henry III. Edmund, son of John de
A.D. 1251. Lacy, obtained a charter of free warren in all his demesne lands
of Pontefract, Rowell (Rothwell), Leedes, Berwick, Secroft,
Bradford, Alemandbury, Windlesford (Woodlesford), Oltone, Carl-
tone, Lofthous, Slateburn, Castleford, Methley, Grenlington,
Braford (Bradford) in Bowland, Swillington, Farnlegh, Back.
shelf, &c. in Com. Ebor. In the fourth year of Edward II. Alice,
A. D. 1311. widow of the above-mentioned Edmund de Lacy, had assigned for
her dowry the manors of Leedes, Rodwell, Berwick, Sladeburn,
Grinleton, Bradford, &c. Thomas, earl of Lancaster, having mar
ried Alice de Lacy, only daughter and heiress of Hugh de Lacy,
the last earl of Lincoln of that name, the manor of Leeds, with
all the vast possessions of the Lacy family, were united to those
of the duchy of Lancaster. When the duke of Lancaster as
cended the throne with the title of Henry IV. this manor with
the other ducal possessions passed to the crown, and in the crown
it was vested, until the death of Anne, princess of Denmark, and
consort to James I., part of whose jointure it was. At this period
it was sold into private hands.
From the records in the office of the Duchy of Lancaster, it
appears that the manor of Leeds was granted by Charles I. in the
fourth year of his reign, to Edward Ditchfield and John Highlord,
in trust for the city of London. It seems, however, to have
reverted to the crown, in some unknown manner, almost immedi
ately ; for Thoresby tells us, that it was purchased of the crown
by his great grandfather, Richard Sykes, Alderman of Leeds, in
the years 1629 and 1636.* At the request of Harrison the
benefactor, who thought that the possession of the manor by a
single individual, a resident in the place, would give him too great
a superiority over his fellow townsmen, and expose him to consi
derable odium, Mr. Sykes permitted him and several other gen
tlemen to become joint purchasers with him, reserving only one
share for himself and another for his son.t To give a list of the
* Thorseby's Ducat 260.
f These gentlemen were seven of the Aldermen, including Mr. Sykes and
Mr. Harrison, and the son of Mr. Sykes and Wm. Marshall, Jun.

LEEDS. 95
successive proprietors of this manor from this purchase to this
day can be of no possible service to the reader ; the present pos
sessors are Christopher Wilson, Esq., of Ledstone, four ninths —
the Marchioness of Hertford one ninth — Mrs. Rachel Milnes one
ninth — the Rev. F. T. Cookson one ninth — C. Beckett, Esq. one
ninth — the executors of the late C. Bolland, Esq. one ninth.
We shall dismiss the subject of the Manor of Leeds by
stating that a Court Leet is still held by the Lords, at which a
Jury is impanelled to preserve the weights and measures at the
proper standard, and to resist all encroachments upon the mano
rial rights. But we must return to the order of our history.

90

SECTION II.
THE TOWN OF LEEDS CONTINUED.

For a long series of years no authentic intelligence can be com.
municated of the state of Leeds. There can be no doubt that the
municipal jurisdiction arranged by the charter of Maurice Pa-
ganel, ceased when the castle was demolished, and that even all
recollection of its existence soon passed away. For when the in
habitants of Leeds applied to Charles I. through Lord Savile of
Howley, for a charter of incorporation, they never referred to this
ancient constitution of the place ; a fact which can only be ac
counted for by supposing that they were completely ignorant of
the honours and privileges which had been bestowed upon the an
cient inhabitants of their town. It is conjectured by Dr. Whita
ker, that soon after the reign of Richard II. the town of Leeds
was absorbed once more in the great fee of Pontefract, so that
there was no longer any interest in the lords to exercise a local
jurisdiction, nor any power iu the burgesses to maintain their
rights against antagonists so powerful as those of the principal
town.* After the lapse of five hundred years, we arrive at some au
thentic information of the condition of the town communicated in
the brief notice of Leland. That writer thus speaks of it, " Ledes,
two miles lower down than Christal Abbay, on Aire river, is a
praty market toune, having one paroche chirch, reasonably well
builded, and as large as Bradeford, but not so quik as it."t From
the same author we learn, that if Leeds at this period was not so
populous as Bradford, it was considerably less than Wakefield,
which was much larger than Bradford.^ It is extremely probable
that Leeds was then only just arising from the depression of ages,
* Whit. Loid and Elm, p. 12.
f Leland vii. 54. Leland flourished circiter 1530—1552.
X See our account of Bradford in chapter III.

LEEDS. 97
that its manufactures had only very recently been introduced
among its inhabitants, and that it was only commencing that
career of industry and enterprise which has elevated it to the
primary rank among the towns of Yorkshire.
A few scattered and unconnected notices relative to the town,
we here collect, few of them being important, but none of them
uninteresting to the inhabitants. We find a Mr. Thomas Wade
leaving by his will, dated 1530, a portion of his estate, under cer
tain conditions which there is no occasion to recite, to be devoted
to the repair of some of the highways of Leeds and its vicinity,
The letters of patent of Henry VIII. granting the presentation
to the parish church, to Thomas Culpepper, Esq. the foundation a. D. 1552.
of the Grammar School, and the devotion of an old chapel near a. D. 1558.
the north bar for its use — the purchase of the advowson of the A. D.1582.
vicarage by the parishoners— ^the changes which were made in the A. D. 1608.
interior of the old church for theaccomiriodation of the people —
and the unparalleled munificence of the benefactor, Harrison, will
be described in their respective places in the subsequent parts of
this work. A survey of the manor of Leeds was made in the ninth
year of the reign of James I, which notices three Waugh Milns in
the town ; fulling mills are stated to have existed near the castle in
the reign of Edward III. Some estimate may be formed of the
population of the town and parish in the time of James, from a bill of
complaint exhibited in Chancery, dated November 3, 1615, in the
name of the principal inhabitants of the district. In this plaint
it is stated, that " the said town and parish being very large and
populous, consisted of five thousand communicants, or more, of
though some were three or four miles distant from the parish
church, yet nevertheless three or four thousand of them ordinarily
resorted thither every sabbath day, &c."* Now even supposing this
statement to have been considerably exaggerated by the appli
cants (wMch from the dimensions of the only church in Leeds at
that period it must have been) still it is evident that population
*The persons who signed this complaint, were Sir John Wood, knight; Sir
John Savile, knight; Sir Philip Carey, knight; Sir Arthur Ingram, knight
John Falkingham, esq.; Edward Fairfax, gent; Scott Skelton, gent.; William
Bayntun, geut; Robert Waterhouse, gent.; Thomas Ellis, gent; William
Marshall, John Metcalf, Richard Sykes, Thomas Brough, Joseph Hillary,
William Parker, George Netleton, John Watson, Matthew Cooper, Robert
Pickersgill, Peter Jackson, and Ralph Cooke, all of the town and parish of
Leeds. It will be seen from this that the inhabitants of Leeds were connected
with some of the first families in the county.
o

•98 LEEDS.
was Tapidly increasing, and that a laudable attention was paid to
the ordinances of divine worship, and the maintenance of public
.morals.
A. D. 1520. Five years after the communication to the court of Chancery,
an inquisition under a commission of Charitable Uses, was made
into the administration of the principal charities in the borough of
Leeds. To this inquisition we only refer at present in order to
point out a curious circumstance in the ancient municipal economy
of the town. It appears that a toll was exacted from the corn
brought into the market. This Toll Dish, as it was called, was,
according to an order of the duchy chamber of Lancaster, distri.
buted in the following manner — one third was payable to the
bailiff, then the principal officer in the town ; another third was
given to the poor; and another third was devoted to the repair of
the highways. To collect the toll and to secure its division accord.
ing to this arrangement, two persons were appointed, one by the
bailiff, and another by the committee, who on every market-day
discharged their functions, and collected and divided the tax.
These regulations, which as we shall soon see, were confirmed by
the charter of 1661, though most impolitic and absurd, were con
tinued to the close of the last century, when they were wiselyre.
mitted, since it was found that the tax produced only about seventy
pounds a year, that it could not be levied without considerable
difficulty, and that it excited perpetual opposition and disgust.
Whatever may be thought of the intentions of the authorities at
this period in making such enactments as these, no very high opi
nion can be formed of the policy upon which they conducted their
municipal administration ; thus retarding the prosperity of the
town by taxing its markets, and subserving imaginary benevolence
by grievous oppression. The grant of Charles I. of the king's
mills in Leeds, to Edward and William Ferrers, under which the
A. D. 1631. Soke in this town at present exists, is an example of royal legis
lation of a similar character — it was the sacrifice of the interest of
the many to the emolument of the few.
Immediately prior to the commencement of the civil war,
Nov. 29, Leeds was compelled, according to the arbitrary practice of those
unhappy times, to furnish its proportion of ship money. The
government agent at York sent orders to the corporation of
Leeds, to levy from the inhabitants their quota " towards the
setting out of one shippe of fower hundred and fifty tunne,
beside (tunnage) to be furnished with men, tackle, munition,

LEEDS. 99
victual, and other necessaryes, for the safeguard of the seas, and
the defence of the realme." The functionary of the court in this
communication declared his conviction, that the town was highly
favoured in " having but to pay seventy-two pounds towards soe
great a charge." The directions given for the levying of this
money are sufficiently amusing. " First, ther is required expe-
dic'on ; secondly that noe poore labouring people be assesssed,
but suche as have estates in lands or goods, or live by some
gaineful trade, for it is concieved that the assessing poore people
will cause a clamour and p'judice the service, which in itself is
most honourable and just. Thirdly that the clergie be used
with all favour." This mandate was transmitted to Leeds in
the very year when the celebrated John Hampden refused to pay
his contribution to the ship money. Although the sentence,
after an argument before the twelve judges, was given against
Hampden, yet the result was, and Leeds no doubt felt it in all
its extent and importance, to promote the violence of the popular
leaders, and to excite additional prejudice against the proceed
ings of the crown.
The participation of Leeds in the agitations and miseries of
the conflict between the parliament and the king, we have
already related — we therefore hasten to the narration of other
events of equal interest, and of superior importance, because of
more permanent influence.
Besides the calamities of war, Leeds at this disastrous period SeeA.93.1.
was afflicted with the horrors of the plague. By this dreadful
scourge Yorkshire had been repeatedly visited during the pre
vious hundred years. In the year 1544 it appeared among the
inhabitants of the southern districts of the Riding. In 1563 the
garrison of Havre de Grace again introduced it into England,
the infection was soon conveyed to the north, and various affecting
memorials have been preserved of its ravages. Those ravages
recurred with only a few years' interval, more particularly during
the following eighty years. The years 1596 and 97 were very
calamitous at Leeds, the dead-roll increasing from 120 to 311.*
The pestilence broke out with tremendous violence in this town
in March, 1644-5, and by the twenty-fifth of December, 1325
persons, or more than one fifth of the population, had perished.
The disease was not confined to the closest and most densely
inhabited parts of the town, but extended to its most open
* Thoresby's Ducat, p. 152.

100 LEEDS.
districts and its most airy suburbs. At the same time its ravages
were the most fatal in the streets and lanes where the poorest,
the worst fed, the worst clothed, and the worst housed resided.
The greatest number of its victims were found in Marsh Lane,
the Calls, Call Lane, Vicar Lane, the Vicar's Croft, Lower
Briggate, and Mill Hill. Some persons are expressly stated to
have died in North Hall Orchard. So great was the consterna
tion, that all who were able fled from the scene of contamination
and death ; the grass grew in the deserted streets ; the markets
were removed to Woodhouse ; the doors of the old church were
closed ; and if the testimony of contemporaneous witnesses is to
be credited, the very birds fell dead as they flew over the town*
Amidst all the horrors of this dreadful visitation, one circum
stance occurred, which the writer with pleasure records, and to
which the reader will delight to refer. There is a kind of moral
intrepidity — a courage in adhering to ascertained duty and sacred
obligation, undismayed by danger, or suffering, or death, infinitely
superior in nature, infinitely more beneficial in result, and infi
nitely more deserving of admiration and applause, than all the
warlike heroism whose deeds historians have ever celebrated, and
whose praises poets have ever sung. Two instances of this holy
resolution were presented in Leeds in this season of general deso
lation and dismay. Robert Todd, who was then the minister of
St. John's Church, and whose memory Dr. Whitaker has treated
with sarcastic and bigotted contempt, because " he was a noncon
formist at heart," remained at his post to administer the consola
tions and instructions of religion to those who were trembling on
the brink of the grave. And when Robert Saxton, whom the
same learned historian designates " a mere intruder," but whom,
from a contemporary and much better authority, t we know to
have been a zealous and truly pious man, assumed the charge of
the parish of Leeds, he immediately opened the Old Church for
the celebration of religious ordinances ; divine worship, which in
that edifice had been suspended, was restored ; and from the cha-
* An interesting memorial of this dreadful visitation was obtained in
November, 1790, when as some workmen were digging clay in a field now
occupied by part of George Street, they discovered fifty oak coffins containing
human bones, and supposed to have been deposited there at the time of the
plague. f Report of the Commission for surveying and subdividing the parishes
in the north of England, quoted by Thoresby, Vic. p.

LEEDS. 101
racter of the man, who had previously displayed a sacred compo
sure and courage in the most appalling emergency,* there can be
little doubt that he visited the abodes of the diseased and the
beds of the dying, and pointed out to the victims of cruel pesti
lence, the path to immortality and eternal life.
In the history of this awful calamity, another circumstance
occurred too remarkable to be passed over without observation.
It 'appears frpm the parish register, that in August, 1645, one
hundred and thirty one persons died of the disease, " before the
plague was perceived." This very striking fact, either argues a
most deplorable deficiency of medical knowledge, or the miserable
condition of the municipal police, or a reckless and scandalous
neglect of the necessities and wretchedness of the poor. How far
the first of these evils prevailed at this period, must be deter
mined by those who are better versed than the writer in the local
history of medical science ; but it is certain that both the second
and the third are to be considered as the natural and necessary
results of civil war — civil war, the direst and the most accursed
calamity by which a nation can possibly be visited — steeling the
heart of humanity, blasting every appearance of individual happi
ness, of social peace, and general prosperity — inflaming against
each other with every execrable, malignant, and infernal passion,
the subjects of the same government, the inhabitants of the same
town, the inmates of the same house, the children of the same
father — and proving the prolific source, in every country in which
it exists, of universal demoralization and depravity, and of every
crime which is disgraceful to human nature. What a wonderful
contrast between the state of Leeds in 1644 to that of the same
town in 1832 ! Who can recollect the wise and salutary pre
cautions to prevent the spread of pestilence in the latter year, the
indefatigable exertions of consummate medical skill, the effectual
assistance which was instantaneously and gratuitously afforded to
every case of disease, and the benevolent liberality which relieved
the destitution and supplied the necessities of the poor, without
sincere and ardent gratitude for the mighty change which has
taken place in public spirit and public feeling in the lapse of two
centuries ? We are often too prone to extol, without knowing
perhaps what we mean, " the good old times ; " while, however,
we applaud whatever was excellent in the past, let us not be
insensible to the incalculable superiority of the present.
* See an anecdote of him in Thoresby, ubi sup. Whit. 3 1.

102 LEEDS.
Before we dismiss this account of epidemic distempers at
Leeds, we must be permitted to make rather a ludicrous extract
from the appendix to Thoresby's great work.* " In December,
1675, was an epidemic distemper, profanely called the Jolly
Raid ; it was a severe cold and violent cough which not only
affected York, Hull, Halifax, in these parts, but the counties of
Westmoreland, Durham, Northumberland, &c. ; the weekly bills of
mortality in London were also increased three hundred. I was
too young or inobservant to make such remarks as might be of
use ; but very well remember that it affected all manner of
persons ; and that so universally, that it was almost impossible to
hear distinctly an entire sentence of a sermon," &c. From the
noise which occasionally resounds in our places of worship, it
might be imagined that we were sometimes troubled with the
visitation of the same disease in the present day. This " sterco-
rarian roar " is as indecorous and annoying, as in nine cases Out
of ten it might be easily suppressed. It is certainly one way of
gaining publicity, and of developing the vocal powers of the
individual. While Cromwell governed the British empire, and extended
its reputation throughout the civilized world, an event occurred
with reference to Leeds, which was certainly one of the most
remarkable and interesting in the course of its history. This
event was the fact of its having a representative in parliament.
That representative was Adam Baynes, Esq. of Knowsthorp, a
captain in the parliamentary army. It appears from a letter
written by a Mr. Walker to Mr. Alderman Thwaytes, that this
honour was procured for the town of Leeds by the influence of
Mr. Baynes himself. The words of Mr. Walker are, " Capt,
Baynes, as I am credibly informed, out of courtesy and good will
procured the town this honour; but for him it had not been;
now we shall render ourselves unthankful persons indeed, if at
the first election we give that coat of honour to another which he
won for us ; far be it from us." That Captain Baynes was not
unworthy of the votes of the burgesses of Leeds, as it has been
absurdly stated,t is evident. He was the member of a respect-
* Ducat App. 151.
f Dr. Whitaker, in alluding to this event, says, " In a miscellaneous
account of the town of Leeds, it would be unpardonable to omit that it was
once represented in parliament, though at a period of which it has little

LEEDS. 103
¦ able family, he was possessed of a plentiful fortune, and he had
. acquired considerable experience in the transaction of business.
The pedigree in Thoresby proves the first of these statements ;
¦ the second is substantiated by the purchase which Mr. Baynes
made of the manor of Holdenby in Northamptonshire, for which
he paid twenty-nine thousand pounds ; and the third is confirmed
by the letter above quoted, which declares him to have been
" long trained up in several committees." General Lambert was
the great patron of Captain Baynes ; and his influence, according
to the same Mr. Walker, was expected to be highly beneficial.
The candidate for parliamentary honours was duly elected and A. D. 1654
returned ; and his letter of thanks to his principal supporters
. deserves insertion in this place, and may be compared with the
style of similar documents which have recently been presented to
the electors .of Leeds.
" Gentlemen,
" I understand by letters from Dr. Diveroe
and other good friends, how exceedingly you have obliged me
beyond my deserts and expectations, so that I am at a loss for
power and abilities, nay even for expressions, to shew my grati
tude for the same. And therefore can only return you my
affections, which shall ever continue to supply all other defects
to do you faithful service ; to which end I desire you to look
upon me as one ever ready to receive and obey your commands in
eyery thing tending to your service. And in order thereunto, I
make bold to hint to you, how short a time it is before the
parliament beginneth to sit, and also the multiplicity of business
that the next parliament will have, to the end that you may lose
no time in preparing your commands for me, either in relation to
your government, civil or political, or any thing else that may
concern you. To which end my humble advice to you is, that
you will study peace and love amongst yourselves (if any thing
contrary be) that you may be as unanimous as may be in your
meetings, for an house or a kingdom divided against itself cannot
stand; and in all your consultations let me beg of you to endea-
reasou to be proud. As little reason has it to rejoice in its single represen
tative, Adam Baynes, of Knowsthorp, a creature of Lambert." The obser
vation, as to Mr. Baynes, may be safely left to the refutation furnished by the
narrative in the text It is, however, an instance of gratuitous condemnation
which does no honour to its author.

104 LEEDS.
vour the promotion of the clothing trade, which you know, under
God, is the greatest means of most of your well beings ; and to
that end let every man divest himself of self, and adhere to that
which may be for the public good, which will be great honour
and comfort to you, and satisfaction to him that is,
Gentlemen, your most obliged and faithful servant,
July 18, 1654. A. Baynes.
For my honoured friend, Mr. Alderman Thwaytes, and the rest
of my good friends in the precincts of Leeds."
Making the necessary allowance for the difference of style, this
letter may be compared with our modern productions of the same
class ; there are the same expressions of gratitude, the same pro
testations of unbounded service, the same kind recommendations of
charity, the same attention to the manufacturing interest, and
it may be added, the same concealed and very natural exultation.
We have no means of ascertaining in what manner Captain
Baynes redeemed his " pledges," no doubt quite as well as most
members of parliament do. After the restoration, he was com
pelled to give up his purchase of Holdenby, he retired to his
A. D. 1670. patrimonial estate at Knowsthorp, where he lived unmolested to
his death, The house of his family in that village will be noticed
in another part of this work.
We must now solicit attention to the bridge, and some of the
buildings in Leeds, erected prior to the eighteenth century.
That there was a bridge over the river Aire on the spot where
the present edifice stands, in the period anterior to the conquest,
appears highly probable, at any rate, from the name of the prin
cipal street of the town, which implies a bridge already existing,
and " which," says the continuator of Thoresby, " can scarcely
be conceived as of less than Saxon antiquity."* It is most likely
that this bridge, existing in the Saxon times, had fallen into decay
and ruin, and that passengers were conveyed across the river by
a ferry, the ferry house standing on the site of the present Golden
Lion Inn. It was the tradition in Thoresby's time, that the
bridge was built out of the ruins of the castle,t but that tradition
was certainly unfounded. It is certain that the bridge was in
existence in the year 1376, and that a chapel was attached to it,
that travellers, in commencing their journeys, might enjoy the
* Whit. 88. f Thoresby 77.

LEEDS. 105
privilege of early mass.* This chapel must have been built at
the same time with the bridge, for when its remains were
pulled down, seventy-three years ago, its foundation stones were
found to be completely incorporated with those of the bridge.
The chapel stood on the north east corner of the bridge, it was a
chantry dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin. About 1515 it had
three burgages, ten houses, and cottages and lands called St.
Mary's Ings, then valued at £4. 6s. 8d. Robert Hopton was
the chantrj- priest at that time. After the Dissolution, it was
applied to the purposes of a school, and continued so until the
year 1728, when it was transformed into a warehouse. Of Leeds
bridge, Thoresby speaks in the following terms. " The bridge
here is strong and robust, being made of large squared stones ;
and if in the number of pillars and arches, it be equalled by
many and outdone by some, 'tis however in one respect peer
less, that the memorable cloth-market, the very life of these
parts of England, was kept upon the bridge." At the period
of its first erection, and long afterwards, this bridge must
have been extremely narrow and inconvenient; it was widened
in 1730 for double carriages ; it was improved in a similar
manner in 1760 and 1796; and it has lately undergone some
alterations by which the steepness of the ascent from Hunslet
lane, equally incommodious and dangerous, has been mitigated.
On the west side of the ancient bridge was a flight of stone stairs,
called " the Greicef on the west side of the bridge," and built
1583 of stones brought from Kirkstall Abbey. Strange must be
the difference between the aspect of Leeds Bridge now, and that
which it presented shortly after its erection — then witnessing
the occasional transit of a haughty nobleman and his mailed
retainers proceeding upon some expedition of rapine and
revenge — or of cowled monks, engaged in the business of their
convents, or mendicant friars imposing upon the credulity and
fleecing the pockets of the poor — or of miserable serfs, ignorant
as brutes, and degraded to the lowest stage of humanity — with
no indications of commerce, with no appearance of opulence, with
little to animate or to interest the feelings of the observer — now
from morning to night reverberating with the wheels of count
less carriages, crowded with passengers, and the means of con-
* See Scatcherd's Tract on Ancient Chapels connected with Bridges.
j Greice from the French Grez, Latin Gradus.

IQQ LEEDS.
veying the rich manufactures of one of the most important and
industrious regions in the kingdom, to the remotest countries of
the globe.
Of the buildings in Leeds during the middle ages, but little
intelligence can be communicated. Besides the Castle, the Old
Church, and the Chantries, of which the history will be given in
the following book, there was in the vicinity of Lidgate, in one
of the highest parts of the town, a Tower, probably erected to
strengthen the defences of the place and to extend the protection
of the castle. In the manuscripts which Thoresby saw belonging
to the Lords of the Manor, this elevation, from the building it
sustained, was called Tower Hill ; and when in 1695 some work
men were forming a vast excavation for a reservoir of water,
which was intended to be conveyed in leaden pipes to every part
of the town, they found some prodigious stones and the ruins of
a great wall, which were concluded to have been the foundations
of the fabric.
It is interesting to refer to the progressive improvement
which took place in the appearance and comfort of Leeds and the
other towns in the district, corresponding with the changes which
were introduced into domestic architecture. We have already
referred to the hovels of the Saxons, composed of wattles and mud,
with their roofs of thatch supported upon crooks, without pave
ments, without chimneys, and without convenience. No material
alteration took place in the construction of houses through the
long period of the middle ages, down to the accession of the
Tudors. The residences of the more substantial inhabitants or
burgesses were indicated by their greater size, and by their rude
decorations or rather deformities ; but in no other respects were
they distinguished from the cottages of the poorer families in the
community. When manufactures, however limited and defective,
began to diffuse comparative wealth ; when a settled government
and an increasing population imparted stability and extension to
social transactions ; when new wants and new ideas of comfort
were introduced by wider and safer communication with the dis
tant districts and more refined cities of the kingdom ; and when
the iron oppression of feudal tyranny and extortion, which had
completely weighed down the prosperity and insuperably pre
vented the advancement of the great body of the people, was
effectually and permanently diminished ; the auspicious revolu
tion was soon demonstrated in a better style of domestic architec-

LEEDS. 107
ture, and a more rational and general attention to relative
convenience. The houses, it is true, were constructed only of
the perishable materials of wood and plaister ; but the smoke no
longer curled in eddies through the wretched apartments to escape
only by the windows or the door; the number of stories was
increased ; the arrangments of the interior were better adapted
both to the health and the comfort of the family ; and the exter
nal appearance of the dwellings, if barbarously grotesque, was far
more imposing and respectable than at any previous period.
Some of these wood and plaister houses were of considerable
dimensions, and rested upon a low basement of stone, upon which
was placed a wall plate of oak from which the superior principals
ascended. When wood became scarce and dear, the houses in Leeds were
built of stone derived from the immediate vicinity of their site,
but by no means adapted either for beauty or durability. The
appearance of the town by these changes for the better in the
style of building, was still further improved by the introduction
of brick. For the manufacture of this material, the coarse strong
clay with which the parish abounds is admirably adapted ; and
the fire bricks, which are formed from a bed of clay still lower in
the ground, are equal in character and appearance to any similar
article in the kingdom. We shall now refer to some of the old
houses in Leeds.
Rockley Hall, in Lowerhead Row, was the seat of the ancient
family of the Rockleys, from whom it derived its name. It was
an example of the wood and plaister style of building, and like all
others of a similar character and date, displayed a vast profusion
of the former material. It consisted of a centre and two wings,
with a pointed doorway at the lower end of the central part.
Thoresby, who saw both it and its representative before it was
degraded to its present purposes, says of it, " It was a timber
building, and of the most antique form of any I have seen ;
instead of deals or boards for the floors, were oak planks of so con
siderable a thickness, that joysts were made of them for the new
brick building that succeeds it in name as well as place.* " The
last mention of the family of the Rockleys, who built this hall,
occurs in a deed dated 1501. The hall itself, with a considerable
tract of land, was bought by the celebrated benefactor Harrison,
* Ducat 27.

108 LEEDS.
who devoted the rents to pious and benevolent uses. The second
Rockley Hall is now transformed into cottages.
The Red Hall, at the western end of Upper Head Row, was
so called because it was the first house in Leeds which was built
of brick. It was erected, in 1628, by Thomas Metcalf, afterwards
one of the Aldermen of Leeds. In this house Charles I. was
lodged when the Scots were conveying him from Newark to
Newcastle, and here occurred that instance of female loyalty,
which we have already recited. This event was long comme
morated by the name of the King's chamber, which was imposed
upon the apartment in which the unfortunate monarch reposed.
The Red Hall is now so surrounded with more recent buildings,
that it is seldom remarked by the passing observer.
The Chantry at the north-west corner of Briggate, now occu
pied by the publisher of this work, will be alluded to in its
proper place.
In Boar Lane, of which Thoresby says, " this not being so
close built as the rest of the town, has several gentlemen's houses
therein," was formerly a large edifice, the residence of Sir
William Lowther, who sustained with reputation the office of
A. D. 1681. High Sheriff for the county. This house was pulled down in
1750, by Jeremiah Dixon, Esq. then its owner, who rebuilt it in
a very handsome manner, the stone used for the front having
been brought from Huddlestone quarry. It is now occupied by
Thomas Bischoff, Esq., the superintendent of the Branch of the
Bank of England, and still forms one of the most conspicuous
objects in the town.
Another house of some antiquity in Briggate, opposite to
the east end of Boar Lane, and with a quadrangular court in the
middle, must be referred to on account of a singular peculiarity
in its construction. It was built by the celebrated benefactor
Harrison, who had one of the most extraordinary peculiarities
which can belong to any man's character, viz. a ludicrously
extravagant attachment to cats ; and in this house he had a
number of holes and passages cut in the doors and the ceiling
to allow of their free ingress and egress. This building was
first converted into a dwelling house and shops, then it was
well known as the King's Arms Tavern, and it is now the site of
the Leeds Mercury Offices.
Two edifices which formerly stood in Briggate demand a
reference in this work, though they have been pulled down some

LEEDS. 109
years since. The Moot Hall, a small and inconvenient place for
the session of the magistrates, which was built in 1710, stood
nearly opposite the point where Commercial Street and Kirkgate
enter into Briggate. The original town hall was built with
money belonging to the poor, and yielded to them in 1620,
according to an account of gifts on two tables in the old church,
twenty-two pounds, sixteen and eightpence. This was no doubt
the produce of the shops and rooms under the Hall. From the
Moot Hall, for a distance of one hundred and twenty yards,
extended before the recent improvements,* a row of houses
dividing Briggate into two wretched alleys, called the Shambles,
and the back of the Shambles ; and opposite to the upper extre
mity of this deformity, in that part of Briggate then called Cross
Parish, stood the Cross. A cross in this situation was first
erected by Mr. Harrison ; in 1776 the old cross was taken
down, and a new one was erected, and this in its turn was
removed about ten years since.
At the north eastern extremity of New Street stands the par
sonage house belonging to St. John's church, built by the founder
of that edifice, but so changed in its exterior by two successive
alterations of the front, that nothing of its antique character
remains. The Talbot Inn, in a yard proceeding from Briggate, but
once standing to the front of that street, was indubitably one of
the most ancient houses in Leeds. Up to the commencement of
the last century, it contained a chamber painted in fresco, with
the arms of the principal nobility and gentry of the West Riding
in Elizabeth's time. These decorations have long since dis
appeared, and in 1700 the front part of the building was con
verted into shops and warehouses. The Old George Inn, also in
Briggate, is a house of considerable antiquity. One hundred and
fourteen years ago, it was advertised as "an ancient and well-
accustomed house." At that period it stood in the cloth-market,
and its situation must have been highly convenient and advan
tageous. A stone house in Wade Lane of the age of the Tudors, never
fails from its singular and interesting appearance to excite the
attention of the passenger. This has been supposed by some to
be the representative of the ancient manor house of Leeds. The
* These improvements will soon be described at length.

110 LEEDS.
supposition however cannot be correct if the testimony of Thoresby
be received, that author having expressly asserted that the manor
house stood on the site of the castle, and having also stated that
it was standing in his time.* It is certain that during the time
of the encampment of the royal army in the neighbourhood of
Leeds in 1745, it was the residence and head-quarters of Mar
shal Wade.
Among the ancient buildings of Leeds, the Workhouse may
be enumerated. It formerly consisted of " one large and strong
fabric built of free-stone," by Alderman Richard Sykes, about
1630 ; and was for many years employed as a hospital for the
reception of the aged poor. In 1740 it was very much improved,
and capacitated for its present purpose. Of the mode in which
the workhouse is conducted, some account will be given in another
place. It may however here be stated, that a public-spirited
individual almost two years ago, proposed + that sufficient land
should be procured in the neighbourhood of Woodhouse Moor,
for the erection of suitable buildings for a new Workhouse, with
ground enough adjoining for the production of all the vegetables
which might be required for the institution, by the labour of its
inmates. It is sincerely to be deplored, that this plan has never
been carried into effect, and that the vast improvement it would
involve, both in the moral and physical condition of the poor,
has not been accomplished.
Austrope Hall, situated by the footpath leading from the
new wooden bridge over the Aire at School Close to Meadow
Lane, and not far from the Friends' Meeting-house, is a very old
building, though its exterior has been comparatively modernised
from its ancient state. The old house, which was probably built
in the latter part of the fifteenth century, was composed of
timber ; and one of its wings, perhaps the last specimen of its
kind in the town, was pulled down about thirty-three years since.
To the west of Austrope Hall is another ancient house, now com.
pletely surrounded with buildings, which seems to have been the
Water Hall of Thoresby. Since however the name and history
of this, and many other similar edifices in the old parts of the
town, are now completely unknown, it is scarcely worth while to
swell the bulk of the volume by pointing them out to the reader.
Although it may be anticipating the order of time, yet this is
* Ducat 3. f See a letter in the Leeds Mercury, dated June 22, 1831.

LEEDS. Ill
the proper place to mention, that the best house in the town of
Leeds at the commencement of the last century, and for some
time afterwards, was built a little to the west of Call Lane, by
John Atkinson, Esq, mayor of Leeds in 1711. Thoresby calls
this " a delicate house, that for the exquisite workmanship of the
stone work, especially the dome, and for a painted stair-case
excellently performed by Mons. Parmentier, excels all in the
town." * This house was long the post-office, and the residence
of the post-master of Leeds, and was finally pulled down when
the Central Market was built. * Ducat. 76.

112

SECTION III.
THE TOWN OF LEEDS CONTINUED.

A. D. 1621. The borough of Leeds was first incorporated by Charles I.
Upon this incorporation we shall not offer any observations, on
account of the superior importance and interest of the charter of
his son, and because the form of the first incorporation differed
but little from that of the second. In the second charter, the
following reference is made to the act of Charles I. — " Our most
dear father Charles the First, lately King of England of blessed
memory, by his letters patent under the great seal of England,
made bearing date the thirteenth day of July, in the second year
of his reign, of his special grace did ordain, grant, and appoint,
the town aforesaid to be a free borough of this his realm of
England, and that under the name of the borough of Leedes
aforesaid, the whole parish of Leedes should be comprised, and
that all and every the inhabitants of the town and parish of
Leedes aforesaid, and their successors thenceforth for ever,
should be and continue one body corporate and politic in thing,
fact, and name, by the name of aldermen and burgesses of the
borough of Leedes, in the county of York ; and should have,
exercise, and enjoy, divers liberties, privileges, powers, and
authorities, in those letters patent particularly specified." Under
the charter of Charles I. Sir John Savile, the builder of Howley
Hall, and at that period the great patron of Leeds, was the first
mayor, and in that capacity he was so highly respected, that his
arms, known by the name of Hullarts, were adopted by the town.
He did not however formally discharge the functions of his office,
which were performed for him by the celebrated Harrison. John
Clayton, Esq., was the first recorder, and George Banister the
first town clerk.

LEEDS. J13
• In the thirteenth year of his reign,* Charles. II. granted a new
charter to Leeds. This charter merits peculiar attention, and we
shall therefore endeavour to give a complete arrangement and
analysis of its contents.
This charter was granted upon the petition of the merchants,
clothworkers, and other inhabitants of the borough ; and its
object was, to protect them from " the many great abuses, defects
and deceits," which had been discovered "in the making, selling,
and dying of woollen cloths," by fraudulent individuals, to the
injury of the manufacture itself, and to the prejudice of the royal
customs and revenue.
The limits of the borough of Leeds are repeatedly stated in
this charter to be commensurate with those of the parish.
The constitution of the corporation of Leeds by this charter,
was thus arranged. First " one of the more honest and discreet
burgesses or inhabitants of the borough," was to be chosen from
time to time who should be called Mayor of the borough.
Secondly, "twelve of the more honest and discreet burgesses,
inhabitants of the borough," were to be chosen and called
Aldermen of the borough. Thirdly, twenty-four " able and
discreet" inhabitants of the borough were to be elected as
Assistants. And the Mayor, Aldermen, and Assistants, were
to be called the Common Council of the borough.
Concerning the office of Mayor, the following are the arrange
ments of the charter. First, his office was to be annual ; he was
to continue in office from the feast of St. Michael in the year of
his election, to the same feast in the ensuing year. Secondly,
his election was to be in the hands of the Mayor, Aldermen, and
Assistants for the time being, or the greater part of them.
Thirdly, he was to be one of the Aldermen, who alone were
rendered eligible to the office. Fourthly, he was rendered inca
pable .of entering upon the functions of his office, unless within
the seven days ensuing upon his election he should take the Oath
of Allegiance, and the Corporation Oath, "rightly, well, and
faithfully, in and through all things to the said office belonging,"
to execute the office of the Mayor of the borough. Fifthly, if
any one of the Aldermen chosen to be Mayor, refused to assume
the office, a new election was to be made of some other Alderman.
*A. D. 1661. Charles II. dated the commencement of his reign from the
death of his father in 1648. Q

114 LEEDS.
Sixthly, when an Alderman refused to take upon himself the
office of Mayor, after having been regularly elected, the Mayor,
Aldermen, and the rest of the Common Council, were impowered
to impose upon the recusant, "such reasonable fines, pains,
penalties, and amerciaments, or sum of money," as they might
deem requisite upon the occasion ; if the recusant refused to pay
the fine, then the Mayor and the rest of the Common Council
were empowered to issue their warrant under their common seal,
to levy by distress the required amount upon his goods and
chattels ; the value being appraised by " four honest men inhabi
tants and householders of the borough : — and in default of pay
ment, the Mayor and the rest of the Common Council were further
empowered to commit the refractory individual to prison, until
the fine imposed was discharged. Seventhly, it was provided by
the charter, that if any Mayor, after his election and actual
introduction to his station, should "misbehave himself in his
office and undertaking," the aldermen and assistants were
endowed with full power and authority to remove him from his
place. And it was further provided, that if any Mayor were to
die during the time of his office, the Aldermen and Assistants
were to " chuse and nominate some other able and fit man of the
Aldermen of the borough" to be mayor in the place of the
deceased individual for the residue of the year.
With reference to the Aldermen, the following enactments
were made. They were to sustain their office for life, unless by
" their evil behaviour, or evil carriage, or for some other reason
able cause," they should render it necessary that they should be
removed from their place, by the Mayor and the rest of the
Common Council of the borough. In the event of the death or
removal of an Alderman, the Mayor and the rest of the Common
Council, or the greater part of them, were to " elect and appoint
a successor from the number of the Assistants. Every Alderman
upon his appointment was to take before the Mayor, or in his
absence two of the Aldermen, an oath, " well and faithfully" to
execute the duties of his office.
Concerning the Assistants it was ordained, that they were
to continue in office during their lives, though removable, like the
Aldermen, from office, in the event of " evil behaviour or some
other reasonable cause," by the Mayor and the rest of the Com
mon Council, or the greater part of them. In the event of the
death or removal of any Assistant, the Mayor, Aldermen, and

LEEDS. 115
Assistants were empowered to elect a successor " out of the better
and more honest burgesses of the borough, or of any of the inha
bitants within the liberties of the same." Each Assistant upon
his election, was to take an oath before the Mayor, or in his
absence before two of the Aldermen, " well and faithfully to
execute his office."
Besides these functionaries, the Charter provided, that the
Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses, were to have in the borough,
" one honest and discreet person, in the laws of the realm of
England learned," to be called the Recorder. It was ordained
that his office was to be for life, but that " not well behaving him
self in his office, or for other reasonable cause," he should be
removed by the Mayor, Aldermen, and the rest of the Common
Council, or the greater part of them. The appointment of the
Recorder was not vested in the hands of the Common Council,
but was reserved by the king, " at the humble request or peti
tion of the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses." The Recorder,
upon his appointment, was to take an oath before the Mayor, or
in his absence before two Aldermen, " to do and to execute well,
truly, and faithfully, in all things, and through all things, that
place concerning."
The Recorder by the Charter was impowcred to nominate a
Deputy, " learned in the laws of England," and " a sufficient
and discreet personage." The power of this deputy is described
in the following words ; he " may and shall have as full power
and authority in all and every the things to the said office of
recorder of that borough belonging or appertaining, to all intents
and purposes, as the recorder of the borough for the time being,
by virtue of these presents, may and shall have." The deputy
upon his appointment was to take an oath similar to that of the
recorder, before the Mayor, or in his absence, before two of the
Aldermen. It was further declared by the charter, that the Mayor,
Aldermen, and Burgesses should have another officer, the Com
mon Clerk of the Borough, " a good and honest person," who
was to hold his office for life, unless for " ill-behaviour, or any
other- reasonable cause," removed by the Common Council ; and
who, upon his appointment, was to take an oath before the Mayor,
or two of the Aldermen, justly and faithfully to discharge the
functions of his station. The Town Clerk was to be appointed by
the King, on the petition of the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses.

Hg LEEDS.
The Common Clerk was empowered " to have, nominate, and
make, any sufficient honest and discreet person" to be his Deputy
Clerk for the time being.
The Corporation thus constituted, was by the charter rendered
capable in law, to possess "manors, lands, tenements, rents,
reversions, possessions, rights, privileges, liberties, franchises,
jurisdictions, and hereditaments, of what nature, kind, or quality
soever, to them and their successors in fee, perpetuity, term of
life or years ; " they were also enabled to dispose of the posses
sions thus technically described, and over which they were
invested with the government, and to carry on any legal processes
relative to such property in the same manner and form as the
other subjects of the crown.
The Authority of the Corporation in the borough, was,
in the charter, clearly defined, and was very extensive. When
assembled according to the summons of the Mayor, they were
invested with full power to make "such reasonable laws, orders,
statutes, and ordinances, in writing for the good rule and govern
ment of the borough," and of all its inhabitants, " as shall, accord
ing to their sound discretion, seem reasonable and meet." They
were also capacitated to declare in what manner the inhabitants
of the borough were to conduct themselves in their several
occupations for the good of the borough ; and they were also
empowered to adopt those measures in the time of war, of famine,
of pestilence, or of any other danger, which the circumstances of
the case might demand. They had also the power to propose
new laws relative to the manufacture, the dying, or the sale of
woollen cloth, but under this restriction, — in all such cases they
were commanded to summon "forty of the more honest and
sufficient cloth workers, inhabitants of the borough," who, with
the Council, were to be called the Common Assembly ; to them
the Corporation were to submit the proposed statutes^ which, if
approved by the majority, were to become the standing and
effective laws of the borough, obligatory, with the pains and
penalties they contained, upon " all the cloth workers, artificers,
and merchants."
In order to enforce these laws, the Mayor, Aldermen, and
Assistants, were empowered, with the consent of the Common
Assembly, to impose such fines upon the property, or imprison
ment of the person, of an offender, as they might deem requisite
and reasonable. And they were intrusted with the same power

LEEDS. 117
respecting their laws for the internal regulation of the borough,
its markets and fairs, and the conduct of the different officers
and servants they might be under the necessity of employing.
These fines for offences against the municipal laws were to be
collected by the Corporation and applied to the use of the body,
"provided that such laws, statutes, ordinances, imprisonments,
fines, and amerciaments, be not repugnant nor contrary to the
laws, statutes, customs, or rights of the realm.
The charter also enacted that the Mayor, the Aldermen, the
Recorder, and the Deputy Recorder, should be Justices op the
Peace ; and that the Mayor, Recorder, Deputy Recorder, and
Aldermen of the borough, or any three or more of them, (of which
the Mayor, Recorder, Deputy Recorder, or one of the two senior
Aldermen was required to be one) should be intitled, in this
capacity, upon the oaths of " good and legal men" of the borough,
to enquire into all extortions, misprisions, trespasses, felonies, &c.
committed within the borough, and to determine all such cases
in the most ample manner. Arrangements were also made in the
charter for the holding of Quarter Sessions, and for the trans
mission of traitors, murderers, felons, &c. to the castle of York,
upon the warrant of two or more of the justices of the borough,
of whom the Mayor, Recorder, Deputy Recorder, or one of the
two senior Aldermen, was to be one. To facilitate the transac
tion of business with reference to these subjects, it was made
lawful for the Mayor to issue precepts for the summoning and
returning of juries of the inhabitants ; and if the men so impan-
nelled did not appear, the Mayor and the rest of the Common
Council were to impose upon them reasonable fines. The Mayor
was also impowered to subpoena witnesses under the penalty of
forty pounds or less. The officers of the Corporation were made
amenable to its laws, upon the pain of punishment, which it had
the power to inflict.
Two Sergeants at the Mace were to be chosen by the
Mayor and Aldermen to serve in the borough for proclamations,
arrests, and execution of processes. These Sergeants, at their
appointment, were to take oath before the Mayor, " well and
faithfully" to perform the duties of their office, and privilege was
given to them to carry one or two maces of gold or silver adorned
with the royal arms.
The Mayor and Aldermen were also intitled to elect a
Coroner for the borough, who was either to be one of the Assis-

118 LEEDS.
tants or of the most responsible of the inhabitants — and also a
Clerk op the Market within the liberties of the borough,
Both these officers were, at their appointment, to take oath before
the Mayor, faithfully to discharge their duties, and no other per.
sons were to be allowed to intermeddle with their functions within
the liberties of the borough.
Constables were also to be appointed by the Mayor, Alder.
men, and Assistants, who might remove or appoint such officers
according to their discretion.
A prison was enjoined by the charter to be held for the
reception of offenders within the borough, and its' custody and
rule were intrusted to the Mayor and his deputy.
To the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses, were granted all
" the fines, forfeitures, issues, and amerciaments," imposed before
the borough justices of the peace and in the borough courts, and
all such fines, &c. they were impowered to levy by attachment of
the goods, or persons, and by the distress of goods of offenders.
To the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses, were committed
the inspection, correction, and enforcement of the assize of wine,
bread, ale, and other kinds of victuals sold within the borough;
but the fines imposed upon offenders upon these matters, were
not to be applied to the use of the Corporation, but to be laid out
for the benefit of the poor. It was expressly declared by another
provision of the charter, that all victuallers and fishmongers, and
other persons coming to the borough with victuals for sale, should
be under the government of the Mayor and Aldermen.
Some privileges were granted by this charter. The Mayor,
Aldermen, and Burgesses, were freed from serving as jurors in
any court in the county of York, upon any cause arising without
the limits of the borough — nor were the inhabitants of the
borough compelled to apply to any external court for the decision
of matters within the province of the Mayor, Aldermen, and
Assistants. The same parties were also exempted from being
impannelled upon any trial or cause before any justice of assize
out of the limits of the borough ; unless the matter to be inquired
into and decided, having occurred within its precincts, its inha
bitants were of course supposed to be best acquainted with its
intrinsic merits and peculiarities. It was further guaranteed to
the inhabitants of the borough, that they should not be compelled
to serve as bailiffs, or high constables, or in any other similar
office in the county of York, unless they possessed lands or

LEEDS. 119
tenements out of the borough, which rendered them liable for
the same.
The charter further granted to the Mayor, Aldermen, and
Burgesses of Leeds, that a Common Market should be held on
Tuesday in every week throughout the year, all the emoluments
of which arising from free customs, tolls, stallage, fines, &c.
should be held by the parties above-named without any account to
the king.
The charter concluded by providing for the mode of elec
tions in the corporation, and for its support and dignity. With
respect to the mode of election, it was determined, that in all
such elections and in all laws and ordinances made by the Mayor
and the rest of the Common Council or Common Assembly, when
the number of votes on both parts be equal, that side to which
the Mayor should give his voice should prevail. And it was also
provided that in passing such laws and making such elections, it
should be essential, that the Common Meeting should consist of
the Mayor and four Aldermen of the boruogh, with as many more
Aldermen and Assistants as should make up the number of nine
teen persons at the least.
To support the dignity op the Corporation, power was
granted to the Mayor, Aldermen, and Assistants, to " impose,
tax, and assess," upon the inhabitants of the borough, such sums
of money as might be requisite for the purpose ; and to levy upon
the goods of those burgesses who might refuse to pay, the amount
of the contribution determined upon. And for the same purpose,
the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses, were confirmed in the
possession of all property and profits, from whatever source
derived, which the Burgesses had at any time enjoyed, even
though such property and profits might have been previously
either abused or lost.
It is trusted that this arrangement and analysis of the Charter
of King Charles II. to the borough of Leeds, will neither be
uninteresting nor useless to the reader ; it has ever since formed
the basis of municipal legislation and police ; and its provisions,
with some few exceptions, which will be pointed out in their
proper place, have continued in force to the present day. Upon
the influence and effects of that form of municipal government,
which has existed in Leeds, witheut interruption, since this
charter was conferred, some observations will be found at the
close of this narrative of the events which have affected its local

120 LEEDS.
interests. " The abuses and deceits within the town and parish
which were renewed and daily more and more increased, to the
great harm and subversion of commerce and manufacture,"* must
in a great measure have been prevented > an arranged system and
order of effectual police must have proved an essential benefit to
the town and to its vicinity ; and by inspiring the inhabitants
with a higher respect for the place of their residence, thus ele.
vated to a degree of importance possessed by none of its manu.
facturing neighbours, the bestowment of this charter must have
cherished their patriotic regard for its particular and general
interests, and stimulated both their public spirit, and their com.
mercial industry and enterprise.
The inhabitants of Leeds were not long allowed to manage
their municipal affairs under these new institutions, without
interruption. In the reign of James II. there was great dabbling
among charters, to extend the influence and facilitate the designs
Jan.1,1684. of the court. Another charter was then given to this town, and
Gervase Nevile, Eaq. was the first Mayor under the new consti
tution. The innovation however was soon abrogated ; five years
only had elapsed, when, upon the accession of William and Mary,
the old charter was restored, and the affairs of the town have ever
since been regulated by its laws.
Two curious particulars, relative to the Corporation of Leeds
in the ensuing reign (that of Queen Anne) will be amusing to
the reader. In the year 1710, the office of the recordership became
vacant, and Mr. Wilson was elected to that honourable station by
a very large majority of votes. He was not however permitted
to enter upon his functions ; for in these times of agitation, when
all who were not prepared to go the full lengths of a particular
party were slanderously assailed as the enemies of the royal
government, it was necessary either to coincide with the views of
the dominant set, or to fall under the ban of their displeasure.
By the party in question, Mr. Wilson seems to have been
regarded with suspicion and dislike ; and William Nevile, Esq.
the acting High Sheriff, in order to obtain his deposition, repre
sented, in the name of the church, the magistrates of Leeds as
infected with the principles of Whiggery. This was quite enough,
the assent of the Queen to the election was recalled, and the
appointment was conferred upon a tool of the court, altogether
inadequate to the office. * Preamble of the Charter.

LEEDS. 121
- Although the misrepresentation was soon discovered, the magis
trates of Leeds determined to deliver themselves most completely
from the imputation ; and two years afterwards, the Mayor and
his companions presented an address to the queen in the palace
of Kensington. They were treated with great condescension and
affability ; the Duke of Leeds had informed his sovereign that
the address came from a populous borough and a loyal corpora
tion, both willing and able to lend effectual assistance to the
crown in the case of any emergency. The polite queen curtsied
to the persons and smiled upon the loyalty of her liege subjects,
and there can be no doubt that Leeds was filled with gratitude
and exultation. It would further seem that the graciousness of the Queen
was the cause which induced the inhabitants to bestow more than
wonted honours upon her name. On no former occasion do we
discover any very extraordinary effervesence of loyalty in Leeds ;
but on this occasion, Alderman William Milner was at the
expense of a white marble statue of her majesty, which he
presented to his fellow townsmen, and which was placed in front
of the Moot Hall. The day when this statue was erected, was
observed in the town as a festival and holyday ; a splendid
procession traversed the streets ; and every demonstration of
joy was exhibited by all grades of the people. It may here be
observed that this statue, which, though stiff in drapery and
unpleasing in style, has some claims to merit, now looks down
upon the principal street in Leeds from an elevated station in
front of the New Corn Exchange.
The above was not the only instance of the interference of the
crown in the election of the officers of the Leeds Corporation. In
1753 the Corporation chose Mr. Barstow to be the Town Clerk,
but the king annulled the appointment, and ordered Mr. Thomas
Atkinson to have the place, then valued at two hundred pounds
per annum.
The fines, which according to the Charter of Charles II. were
to be paid by any Alderman refusing to serve the office of Mayor,
have frequently been levied on the recusants. The most interest
ing circumstance of this nature which perhaps ever occurred,
took place in the middle of the last century; when the Corpora- A.D. 1758.
tion brought an action against Mr. W. Denison, to recover the
penalty on his refusal to serve his mayoralty. This refusal had
been repeated no less than four times in four successive years,
R

122 LEEDS.
viz. from 1754 to 1758. The cause was tried at York, before
Lord Chief Justice Mansfield, who stated his astonishment that
Mr. Denison should so pertinaciously refuse the highest honour
which it was in the power of the Corporation to bestow. The
defendant at length compromised the affair by engaging, through
his brother as his deputy, to accept the office. The very next
year Walter Wade, Esq. was fined for a similar refusal.
The funds of the Corporation of Leeds under the charter'of
Charles II. derived from these sources, have never been very
large, nor has the corporate body, as such, ever been very opu.
lent. Of this a remarkable proof was given in 1798. When the
nionied bodies, the nobility and gentry of the kingdom, came for.
ward with their subscriptions in aid of the supplies demanded by
the national defence against the malignant designs of France, the
contribution of the Leeds Corporation, though most liberal when
compared with the funds of the body, was far exceeded by the
munificent gifts of private individuals in the neighbourhood,
While the Earls of Harewood and Carlisle each subscribed four
thousand pounds, while Sir R. B. Johnston gave one thousand
pounds annually during the continuance of the war, while Mr,
Smyth, of Heath, gave one thousand pounds, the Corporation of
Leeds forwarded to the cashier of the Bank of England five hun.
dred pounds, with an order for it to be entered in the books in the
following manner, "The Corporation of Leeds having no property
or income whatever, save the interest of one thousand eight hun-
dred pounds arising from fees of admission and fines paid by those
refusing to serve, five hundred pounds."
With reference to the charter of Charles II. we finally observe,
that it clearly shews that from the time of the cessation of the
civil war, and the ravages of the plague, to the Restoration, that
is during the space of fifteen years, the population, the wealth,
and the general prosperity of Leeds had been rapidly increasing.
The preamble to this charter, given in the second year after the
A. D. 1661. Restoration, declares that the manufactures of the town and
parish already contributed to the great augmentation of the-
revenue, " by customs and payments due and made by reason
thereof" — and it further states, that the " same town and parish
are much more populous and fuller of inhabitants than in times
by past." It appears that the commercial inhabitants of Leeds,
at this period, were distinguished by steady sobriety, uniform.
economy, and persevering diligence. Although in the absence of

LEEDS. 123
extensive speculation and daring enterprise, large fortunes were
never made with the strange rapidity which modern times occa
sionally witness, yet ample opulence was acquired by many who
pursued with undeviating step and indefatigable industry, the
beaten path of regular trade. By these individuals extensive
estates were occasionally purchased for the settlement of their
posterity, numerous houses were built which combined some
degree of elegance with substantial comfort, and the germ was
laid of that unrivalled greatness and importance to which Leeds,
as the emporium of Yorkshire, has ultimately expanded.*
A collateral proof of the progressive consequence of Leeds is
afforded by the fact, that in the fifth year of William and Mary,
it was selected to give the title of Duke to one of the most distin
guished statesmen of the age, by whose descendants the same
honour is still sustained. This circumstance seems to have
afforded no little gratification to Thoresby. In the first page of
his Ducatus, he speaks with evident pride of " his Grace, the
High Puissant and most Noble Prince, Thomas Osborne, Duke
of Leeds, Marquess of Caermarthen, Earl of Danby, Viscount
Latimer, Baron Osborne of Kiveton, and Baronet, Lord President
of his Majesty's most Honourable Privy Council, Lord Lieute
nant of the East, West, and North Ridings in the County of
York," &c. &c. &c. In giving to the Duke of Leeds a title
derived from a trading town, it must be confessed that there was
something appropriate. For his Grace's family originated from
among the people. Its founder, Edward Osborne, in the middle
of the sixteenth century, was the apprentice of William Hewett,
an opulent tradesman, who lived upon London Bridge, then
occupied by a number of houses and presenting a continued
street. The only daughter of Mr. Hewett, on one occasion, fell
into the river, and would have been drowned but for the gallantry
of young Osborne, who plunged into the stream at the hazard of
his life, and succeeded in saving his young mistress from destruc
tion. He received the fair lady's hand as the reward of his
courage ; his father-in-law, who became Sir William Hewett and
Lord Mayor of London, richly endowed him with wealth ; he was
created a knight, and elevated to the highest civic honours in the
reign of Elizabeth ; and his son, Sir Edward Osborne of Kiveton,
* Bishop Parker, in his account of Farnely Wood Plot, testifies to the
affluence of Leeds at that period, calling it " oppidum lanificio opulentum"—
" rich in woollen manufactures." De Keb. Sui Temp. 68.

124

LEEDS.

A.D. 1620. was made a baronet by Cliarles I. and was afterwards appointed
Vice President of the Council for the north of England. The
son of this Sir Edward was High Sheriff of Yorkshire the
A.D. 1662. second year after the Restoration, his patriotic conduct as Earl
Danby, (so created 1674,) in taking arms at York for William
and Mary, we have already related ; he obtained the Dukedom of
Leeds in 1694 ; and died full of honours at the advanced age of
eighty-one, in the year 1712. The present Duke is the sixth in
order from the creation of the title.
It may here be remarked, that though Leeds was formerly
connected with some of the principal families of the West Riding,
some of whom made it the place of their residence, others
sustained offices in its corporation, and others interested them
selves in the transaction of its affairs, it has long been totally
abandoned by the aristocracy. Three distinguished noble fami.
lies reside within a few miles of it, and one of them is possessed of
considerable property in the borough ; but the residents at Hare-
wood, at Temple Newsam, and at Methley, are seldom to be seen
in its streets, the independence of manufacturing wealth being
inconsistent with both the taste and the pride of dignity and
rank. We subjoin in this place a list of the Mayors of Leeds from
the time when the charter of Charles I. was granted.
i. under the first charter.

1626 Sir John Savile, but the office
was executed by Mr. Harrison.
1627 Samuel Casson, Esq.
1628 Robert Benson, Esq.
1629 Richard Sykes, Esq.
1630 Thos. Metcalf, Esq.
1631 Joseph Killary, Esq.
1632 Benj. Wade, Esq.
1 633 Francis Jackson, Esq.
1634 John Harrison, Esq. 2nd.
1635 Samuel Casson, Esq. 2nd.
1636 Richard Sykes, Esq. 2nd.
1637 Thomas Metcalf, Esq. 2nd.
1638 John Hodgson, Esq.
1639 Joseph Killary, Esq. 2nd.
1640 Francis Jackson, Esq. 2nd.
1641 John Hodgshun, Esq. 2nd.

1642 Ralph Croft, Esq.
1643 John Dawson, Esq.
1644 Francis Allanson, Esq.
1645 John Thoresby, Esq.
1649 Robert Brooke, Esq.
1650 James Moxon, Esq.
1651 William Marshall, Esq.
1652 Richard Milner, Esq.
1653 John Thwaits, Esq.
1654 Martin Isles, Esq.
1655 Henry Roundhil, Esq.
1656 Marmaduke Hicke, Esq.
1657 Francis Allanson, Esq. 2nd.
1658 William Fenton, Esq.
1659 William Fenton, Esq. 2nd.
1660 Paul Thoresby, Esq. Mayor at
the Restoration,

LEEDS.

125

n. under the second charter.

1661 Thomas Danby, Esq. for whom
Edward Atkinson, Esq. offi
ciated.
1662 John Dawson, Esq. 2nd.
1663 Benjamin Wade, Esq. 2nd.
1664 Henry Skelton, Esq.
1665 Dan. Foxcroft, Esq.
1666 Marm. Hicke, Esq. 2nd.
1667 Edward Atkinson, Esq. 2nd.
1668 Christopher Watkinsou, Esq.
1669 Godfrey Lawson, Esq.
1670 Richard Armytage, Esq.
1671 Thos. Dixon, Esq.

1672 Will. Hutchinson, Esq.
1673 Will. Rusfield, Esq.
1674 Samuel Sykes, Esq.
1675 Martin Headley, Esq.
1676 Anthony Wade, Esq.
1677 John Killingbeck, Esq.
1678 William Pickering, Esq.
1679 Joseph Bawmer, Esq.
1680 Henry Skelton, Esq.
1681 Marm. Hicke, Esq. 3rd.
1682 Thomas Potter, Esq.
1683 William Rooke, Esq.

III. UNDER THE THIRD CHARTER OP JAMES II.

1684 Gervase Nevile, Esq.
1685 Joshua Ibbetson, Esq.
1686 William Sawer, Esq.

1687 Henry Stanhope, Esq.
1688 Thos. Kitchingman, Esq.

IV. THE FORMER CHARTER RESTORED.

1689 William Massey, Esq.
1690 Michael Idle, Esq.
1691 John Preston, Esq.
1692 William Calverley, Esq.
1693 Thos. Dixon, Esq. 2nd.
1694 Marm. Hicke, Esq. 4th.
1695 Henry Iveson, Esq.
1696 John Dodgson, Esq.
1697 William Milner, Esq.
1698 Caleb Askwith, Esq.
1699 John Rontree, Esq.
1700 Thos. Lasonby, Esq.
1701 John Gibson, Esq.
1702 James Kitchingman, Esq.
1703 Samuel Hey, Esq.
1704 Edmund Barker, Esq.
1705 Thos. Kitchingman, Esq. 2nd,
1706 Jer. Barstow, Esq.
1707 Rowland Mitchell, Esq.
1708 Rowland Mitchell, Esq. 2nd.
1709 Henry Iveson Esq. 2nd.
1710 John Dodgshon, Esq.
1711 John Atkinson, Esq.
1712 William Cookson, Esq.
1713 William Rooke, Esq.
1714 Solomon Pollard, Esq.

1715 Croft Preston, Esq.
1716 Edward Ibbetson, Esq.
1717 Thomas Pease, Esq.
1718 Benjamin Wade, Esq.
1719 Scudamore Lazenby, Esq.
'1720 Thomas Brearey, Esq.
1721 Robert Denison, Esq.
1722 James Kitchingman, Esq. 2nd.
1723 Edmund Barker, Esq.
1724 Jer. Barstow, Esq. 2nd.
1725 William Cookson, Esq. 2nd.
1726 Thomas Sawer, Esq.
1727 Simeon Pollard, Esq. 2nd.
1728 Edward Iveson, Esq.
1729 John Blayds, Esq.
1730 George Doer, Esq.
1731 Edward Kenion, Esq.
1732 John Douglas, Esq.
1733 William Fenton, Esq.
1734 Henry Scott, Esq.
1735 Thomas Micklethwait, Esq.
1736 John Brook, Esq.
1737 Robert Denison, Esq. 2nd.
1738 William Cookson, Esq. 3rd.
1739 Henry Atkinson, Esq.
1740 Thomas Sawer, Esq. 2nd.

126

LEEDS.

1741 John Snowden, Esq.
1742 John Watts, Esq.
1743 Robert Smithson, Esq.
1744 Richard Horncastle, Esq.
1745 Timothy Smith, Esq.
1746 Edward Kenion, Esq. 2nd.
1747 William Fenton, Esq. 2nd.
1748 Henry Scott, Esq. 2nd.
1749 Edward Gray, Esq.
1750 John Firth, Esq.
1751 Henry Hall, Esq.
1752 Thomas Micklethwait, Esq.
1753 Sir Henry Ibbetson, Bart.
1754 Mr. W. Denison.
1755 Mr. W. Denison.
1756 Thomas Denison, Esq.
1757 Mr. William Denison.
1758 Mr. William Denison.
1759 Edmund Lodge, Esq.
1760 Thomas Medhurst, Esq.
1761 John Blayds, Esq.
1762 William Wilson, Esq.
1763 Samuel Harper, Esq.
1764 Samuel Davenport, Esq.
1765 Joshua Dixon, Esq.
1766 James Kenion, Esq.
1767 Luke Sechwell, Esq.
1768 Edward Gray, Esq. 2nd.
1769 William Hutchinson, Esq.
1770 William Dawson, Esq.
1771 Edmund Lodge, Esq. 2nd.
1772 John Calverley, Esq.
1773 Thomas Medhurst, Esq. 2nd.
1774 John Blayds, Esq. 2nd.
1775 John Beckett, Esq.
1776 John Wormald, Esq,
1777 Joseph Fountaine, Esq.
1778 Gamaliel Lloyd, Esq.
1779 John Micklethwait, Esq.
1780 Thomas Rea Cole, Esq.
1781 William Smithson, Esq.
1782 Arthur Ikin, Esq.
1783 William Cookson, Esq.
1784 Jer. Dixon, Esq.
1785 John Calverley, Esq.
1786 John Markland, Esq.

1787 William Hey, Esq. F.R.S.
1788 Edward Sanderson, Esq.
1789 Edward Markland, Fsq.
1790 John Plowes, Esq.
1791 Wade Browne, Esq.
1792 Rd. Ramsden Bramley, Esq,
1793 Alexander Turner, Esq.
1794 John Blayds, Esq. 3rd.
1795 Whittel York, Esq.
1796 Henry Hall, Esq.
1797 John Beckett, Esq. 2nd.
1798 John Calverley, Esq. 2nd.
1799 Benj. Gott, Esq.
1800 John Brooke, Esq.
1801 William Cookson, Esq. 2nd.
1802 William Hey, Esq. F.R.S.2nd,
1803 Thomas Ikin, Esq.
1804 Wade Browne, Esq. 2nd.
1805 John Wilson, Esq.
1806 R. R. Bramley, Esq. 2nd.
1807 Edward Markland, Esq. 2nd.
1808 Thomas Tennant, Esq.
1809 Richard Pullan, Esq.
1810 Alexander Turner, Esq.
1811 Charles Brown, Esq.
1812 Henry Hall, Esq. 2nd.
1813 William Greenwood, Esq.
1 814 John Brooke, Esq. 2nd.
1815 Whittel York, Esq. 2nd.
1816 William Prest, Esq.
1817 John Hill, Esq.
1818 George Banks, Esq.
1819 Christopher Beckett, Esq.
1820 William Hey, Esq.
1821 Lepton Dobson, Esq.
1822 Benjamin Sadler, Esq.
1823 Thomas Tennant, Esq. 2nd,
1824 Charles Brown, Esq.
1825 Henry Hall, Esq. 3rd.
1826 Thomas Beckett, Esq.
1827 Thomas Blayds, Esq.
1828 Ralph Markland, Esq.
1829 Christopher Beckett, Esq,
1830 Thomas Thorp, Esq.
1831 William Hey, Esq. 2nd.
1832 Thomas Tennant, Esq. 3rd.

LEEDS.

127

LIST OF THE RECORDERS OF LEEDS.

1626 John Clayton, Esq.
1660 Francis Whyte, Esq.
1692 Jasper Blythman, Esq.
1707 Richard Thornton, Esq.
1709 John Walker, Esq.

1729 Richard Wilson, Esq.
1762 Richard Wilson, Esq.
1776 Samuel Buck, Esq.
1806 John Hardy, Esq.

LIST OF THE TOWN CLERKS OF LEEDS.

1660 Francis Bellhouse,
1661 George Bannister.
Edward Brogden.
Castilion Morris.
Thomas Leigh.
Henry Adams.

1725-6 John Lazenby.
1753 Thomas Atkinson.
1765 Thomas Barstow, Jun.
1792 Lucas Nicholson.
1812 James Nicholson.

LIST OF THE CORPORATION OF LEEDS. 1833.
Thomas Tennant, Esq. Mayor.
John Hardy, Esq. Recorder.
Charles Milner, Esq. Deputy Recorder.

ALDERMEN.

Benj. Gott, Esq.
John Brook, Esq.
Charles Brown, Esq.
Henry Hall, Esq.
George Banks, Esq.
Christopher Beckett, ".

William Hey, Esq.
Benjamin Sadler, Esq.
Thomas Beckett, Esq.
Thomas Blayds, Esq.
Ralph Markland, Esq.
Thomas Thorp, Esq. M.D.

ASSISTANTS.

Jonathan Wilks, Esq.
John Gott, Esq.
Joseph Ingham, Esq.
J. G. Uppleby, Esq.
Fountaine Browne, Esq.
Thomas Chorley, Esq.
John Hives, Esq.
Richard Bramley, Esq.
M. T. Sadler, Esq.
J. H. Ridsdale, Esq.
Griffith Wright, Esq.
William Wilks, Esq.
James Nicholson,
Robert Barr, Esq. Deputy

J. M. Tennant, Esq.
Wm. Hey, Jun. Esq.
John Wilkinson, Esq.
Charles Brown, Jun. Esq.
William Perfect, Esq.
William Waite, Esq.
J. R. Atkinson, Esq.
Benjamin Holroyd, Esq.
Thomas Teale, Esq.
S. G. Fenton, Esq.
Wm. Osburn, Jun. Esq.
John Upton, Esq.
Esq. Town Clerk.
Town Clerk and Coroner.

128

SECTION IV. LEEDS CONTINUED.

The first half of the eighteenth century was distinguished hy
two fatal riots in Leeds. On account of the exportation of corn,
on which there appears to have been a bounty, the prices of pro-
A. D. 1735. visions greatly advanced, the indignation of the populace was
roused, and tumults broke out in various parts of the kingdom.
The conduct of the rioters in Leeds was so violent that the king's
troops were obliged to fire upon the multitude, and eight or nine
of the people were killed. While this first riot is thus hastily
dismissed, the second merits a more extended description.
The state of the roads in Yorkshire had long been most
deplorable ; they consisted of narrow lanes, fitted only for the
transit of pack horses ; carriages could only move in a single row,
while an elevated causeway, covered with flags or boulder stones,
afforded comparative convenience to pedestrians. It is amusing
in these days of rapid and easy travelling, to peruse such a work
as Thoresby 's Diary, in which the writer describes the dangers
incurred by the waters, which at particular seasons rendered the
roads almost impassable, and expresses his gratitude for safe arri
val in towns but at a little distance from his own place of abode.
The first law for making Turnpikes was enacted in 1662; but it
was not until long afterwards that local acts were rendered
available to facilitate the communication between the towns in
the West Riding of Yorkshire. About the middle of the last
century, several acts were passed for the improvement of the
roads, and Turnpikes were established to defray the expense of
the alteration. The exaction of tolls excited an immense ferment
A. D. 1753. among the people, and they determined to destroy the turnpike
gates, and to demolish the houses of the collectors. In an attempt
upon the gate and house at Harewood Bridge, they were defeated
by Mr. Lascelles and some of his tenantry, and several of them
were severely wounded. In other places they were more success
ful ; they demolished the gate which had been erected between

LEEDS. ]29
Bradford and Leeds ; they destroyed the bar at Halton Dial, and
repeated the same act of violence at Beeston. Three of the
rioters were apprehended at the latter place, and were conveyed
before the magistrates of the borough, then assembled at the
King's Arms Inn, in Briggate. The mob having on the morn
ing of the same day liberated a carter who had been seized by
the soldiery for refusing to pay toll at Beeston, assembled before
the inn with the determination of rescuing the prisoners, and
they soon broke the windows and shutters of the house with
stones which they procured from the pavement of the street.
The magistrates finding the civil power totally inadequate to pre
serve the peace of the town, ordered out a troop of dragoons then
stationed in Leeds ; the mob, however, so far from being intimi
dated, furiously assaulted the soldiers as well as the constables.
Orders having been issued that each shop should be closed, and
each family secured as far as possible from injury, the troops were
commanded to fire first with powder, and this producing no effect,
with ball. The people then fled in all directions, but a consider
able number were either killed or mortally wounded. It hap
pened in this as in many other similar instances, that a majority
of the sufferers had taken no active part in the riot, for the occur
rence unfortunately happening on the Saturday evening, many of
the slain were persons who were either attracted by mere curiosity
to view the proceedings of the mob, or were on their way to the
market to purchase the usual provisions for the ensuing week.
From a list which has since been published, it appears that thirty
seven persons were killed and wounded, and that many of them
were women and some of them were total strangers in the town.
Tranquillity was not immediately restored, and it was found
necessary to keep a guard upon the houses of the mayor and
recorder for several weeks after the deplorable event. No subse
quent explosion of popular violence was exhibited, and the mis
guided populace soon perceived that turnpike roads were an
incalculable advantage, instead of an oppressive grievance.
The construction of turnpike roads speedily effected a general
change in the transmission of goods and the mode of travelling.
Goods were previously almost universally conveyed in hampers,
halts, or sacks, on packhorses, which frequently proceeded one
after the other in succession to a considerable number. But carts
now came into general use, although the packhorses were long
retained by the clothiers in bringing their manufactures to the

130 LEEDS.
market. The waggons of regular carriers from town to town
were introduced about 1750. Post chaises, which were for some
time regarded as vehicles of luxury appropriated exclusively to
the use of the effeminate, the valetudinarian, and the affluent,
began to be used about four years later. Prior to this period
there had been no post coaches from Leeds. The first coach
established in Yorkshire, proceeded from the Black Swan, in
Coney-street, York, to the Black Swan, in Holbourn, in London:
it ran three times a week, and performed the journey in four days,
" if God permitted." In 1764 we meet with the following
advertisement : " Safe and expeditious travelling with Machines
on steel springs in 4 days to London, from the Old Kings Arms,
in Leeds, every Monday and Wednesday." Miserable work
indeed travelling must have been in such clumsy vehicles, on such
broken roads, with the chance of being killed by the overturning
of the Machine, and of being robbed, and perhaps murdered, by
the audacious highwaymen of the period. Immense improve.
ment, however, speedily took place, for only five years after the
advertisement we have just presented to the reader, we find that
there were two coaches which carried passengers from Leeds to
London in two days aiid a half for one pound eleven shillings and
sixpence inside, and one pound one shilling outside. The speed
of travelling was rapidly accelerated, and in 1776 a new post
coach was advertised to go to London in thirty nine hours from
the Old Kings Arms.* To pursue this subject further is unne-
* The following is a spirited description of the difficulty of travelling and
conveying goods in this part of the country even to a late period in the last
century. " The roads were sloughs almost impassable by single carts, sur
mounted at the height of several feet by narrow worn tracks, where travellers
who encountered each other, sometimes tried to wear out each other's patience,
rather than either would risk a deviation. Carriage of raw wool and manu
factured goods was performed on the backs of single horses at a disadvantage
of nearly two hundred to one compared to carriage by water. At the same
time, and long after, the situation of a merchant was toilsome and perilous.
In winter, during which season the employment of the working manufacturer
was intermitted, the distant markets never ceased to be frequented. Onhorse-
back, before day break and long after night fall, these hardy sons of trade
pursued their object with the spirit and intrepidity of a fox chase, and the
boldest of their country neighbours had no reason to despise their horseman
ship or their courage. Sloughs, darkness, and broken causeways, certainly pre
sented a field of action no less perilous than hedges and five barred gates, while
the diligent pursuit of their lawful callings certainly afforded a more justifiable
cause for incurring such risks than the idle pursuit of a contemptible animal."
— Loid. and Elmete, 81.

LEEDS. 131
cessary. It may be remarked, however, that within the last
twenty years the security as well as the comfort and rapidity of
travelling have been materially increased. Dr. Whitaker, who
hated innovation, whether it referred to turnpike roads or to any
other subject or system whatever, stated upon this subject,
" under the old state of roads and manners it was impossible that
more than one death could happen at once ; what by any possi
bility could take place analagous to a race between two stage
coaches, in which the lives of thirty or forty distressed and help
less individuals are at the mercy of two intoxicated brutes ?
Under such circumstances, a journey from town to town resem
bled a voyage from Dublin to Holyhead, short indeed, but
extremely perilous." This description is no longer applicable..
By the care and attention of the proprietors of coaches, by the
state of the law upon the subject, by numerous examples which
have been made, by the publication, in the periodical press, of
every accident that occurs, a great revolution has been effected ;
the manners, the character, and the system of coachmen has been
immensely improved ; and though disastrous events will always
occur from unfortunate circumstances in travelling as in every
thing else, the dangers of the road have been so mitigated or
removed that little apprehension need be entertained by the tra
veller. The system of travelling by stage coaches has superseded
in a great measure every other in this part of the country, it
has been introduced into its most secluded corners and its remo
test districts, and it is rather amusing to see the numerous
apologies for coaches which are now used on the Leeds market
days to convey the trades people of the distant villages to the
town. In the course of a few years, coaches may be superseded
by locomotive engines on rail-roads, and the next generation may
smile at the clumsy dilatoriness of our method of travelling, just
as we ridicule the tediousness and apprehensions which distin
guished the journeys of our forefathers.
The attention of the inhabitants of Leeds was directed at an
early period to the supply of their families with water, by pipes
conveyed from reservoirs through the streets. So early as 1694,
works were constructed for this purpose under the direction of an
engineer of the name of Sorocold, who from his having been em
ployed at London, Bristol, and Norwich, in a similar manner,
must have risen to considerable eminence in his profession. A

132- LEEDS.
large reservoir was prepared at that time at Lidgates to supply
the pipes, and Kirkgate was the street in which those pipes were-
first laid. But these works became inadequate to the wants of an
increasing population, and in 1754 new premises were taken for
the site of the requisite works. These premises were originally
called Pit-Fall Mill, a place which was occupied as a fulling mill
in the reign of Charles II. and was granted to Edward and Wil
liam Ferrers by the same charter which established the founda
tion of the present Leeds Soke. The premises were taken on
lease for ninety nine years from Alice Elswick, and there the
necessary preparations were made for the supply of the town.'
When thirty six years had elapsed, it was found necessary to
apply for an act of parliament to ameliorate the whole system, and
to provide such other accommodations as the wants of the public
demanded. In the thirtieth year of the reign of George III. an
act was accordingly obtained. It was entitled, " An Act for bet
ter supplying the town and neighbourhood of Leeds in the county'
of York with water, and for more effectually lighting and cleans
ing the streets and other places within the said town and neigh,'
bourhood, and removing and preventing nuisances, annoyances,.
encroachments, and obstructions therein." Twenty one persons
were nominated, in the first instance, to act as commissioners to
carry the provisions of the act into execution,* and afterwards
thirteen commissioners were to be appointed to superintend the
works, and to regulate all the affairs connected with this depart
ment of municipal convenience. These commissioners were com
manded to be chosen on the first Thursday in every January, and
they were empowered to elect from their own body a treasurer, to
appoint collectors and other subordinate officers, to construct the
requisite apparatus for the easy and effectual conveyance of the!
water, to make the pecuniary arrangements which were required
by the nature of the case, and to take other steps particularly
specified, but under certain restrictions referring to certain pri
vate and vested property and corporation rights. In the year
after the act was obtained, the former premises were arranged
* These commissioners were William Cookson, John Beckett, and William
Smithson, Esqrs. the Rev. William Sheepshanks, the Rev. William Wood,
George Bischoff, William Faber, Richard Ramsden Bramley, John Plowes,
John Marshall, John Hebblethwaite, Charles Clapham, Joseph Wood, Josiah
Oates, Thomas Hill, George Beaumont, Samuel Fenton, Thomas Charlcsworth,
James Donaldson, Josiah Oates, and Thomas Wright.

LEEDS. 133
upon a new plan, and the present works were erected. The
original act of 1790 was ratified, modified, and improved by
another in 1809. The water is now forced from the river by an
engine of considerable power, it is received by three large reser
voirs at the upper part of the town, and from thence it is distri
buted to the inhabitants. It must here be observed that the
present efficiency of the works is in a great measure to be ascribed
to Mr. George Webster, whose indefatigable exertions sixteen
years ago intitled him to the appellation of a benefactor to the
town. There are now few establishments in the kingdom of a
similar description, in a state of better superintendence and appli
cation, or more conducive to public advantage and convenience,
than the Leeds Water Works.
At the middle of the last century the inhabitants of this town,
during the long nights of winter, had no regular system of pub
licly lighting their streets, and were consequently exposed to the
outrages of ruffians and the exactions of plunderers. In 1755,
however, an act was obtained to obviate the inconvenience. The
Preamble of this act as it illustrates the condition of the town at
that period is worthy of the attention of the reader. It is ex
pressed in the following terms ; " Whereas the town of Leeds, in
the county of York, is a place of great trade and large extent, con
sisting of many streets, narrow lanes and alleys, inhabited by
great numbers of tradesmen, manufacturers, artificers, and others,
who, in the prosecution of and carrying on their respective trades
and manufactures, are obliged to pass and repass through the
same as well in the night as in the day time : and whereas seve
ral burglaries, robberies, and other outrages and disorders have
lately been committed, and many more attempted within the said
town, &c. and the enlightening the said streets and lanes, and
regulating the pavements thereof would be of great advantage,
and tend not only to the security and preservation of the person
and properties of the inhabitants of the said town, but to the
benefit and convenience of strangers and persons resorting to the
several markets within the said town, &c." To the provisions
of this act we have no occasion to refer ; it was soon ratified by
another of a more definite character and a more extensive opera
tion. It is certainly extraordinary that no project for lighting
the town had been formed at an earlier period. The population
of Leeds, however, though it had gradually, had by no means

134 LEEDS.
rapidly, increased from the commencement of the century; exactly
A. D. 1775. twenty years after this period it only amounted to very little
more than seventeen thousand ; and it is certain that but little
public spirit prevailed among the people, who were so absorbed
in their individual concerns, that they devoted but little time to
their general prosperity and convenience.
The first streets which were lighted under this act were Cross
Parish and New-Street — so called because it was the first place
in Leeds upon which the word street was imposed. When the
act for the water-works in 1790 was obtained, it extended the
provisions of the former act for lighting, &c. to those parts of the
town which had hitherto remained without the privilege of
nocturnal lights, and to the distance of a thousand yards from
the bars. The superintendence of the whole system of lighting,
was vested in the commissioners of the water-works. By oil
lamps by no means of the best construction, the town continued
to be lighted for twenty-eight years, when a Gas Company was
incorporated under the sanction of an act of Parliament ; between
twenty and thirty thousand pounds were expended in the erection
of an extensive establishment in York-Street, and in other cor
responding works ; and the brilliant illumination of the new system
soon entirely superseded the twinkling corruscations, " few and
far between," which rendered "darkness visible" in the olden times.
Leeds was first lighted with gas February 4th, 1819. In 1824
an Oil Gas Company was established, which in a short time
obtained a capital of twenty thousand pounds ; it was however
by no means successful, and the whole speculation ultimately
proved abortive.
The two acts of parliament we have just mentioned, provided
for the removal of annoyances which had been permitted to
accumulate during two centuries, and the health as well as the
comfort of the inhabitants was consulted by regulations for the
periodical cleansing of the streets. The second act prohibited a
custom which prevailed in Leeds up to that late period, and
which must certainly have imparted a very lively appearance to
the streets, notwithstanding at the same time that it endangered
the security of the passengers. It was the practice of the shop.
keepers and tradesmen to have projecting signs, like those which
are now generally used before inns, to indicate the nature of the
commodities they sold ; these waving demonstrations of traffic,
with their gaudy gilding and painting, were commanded to be

LEEDS. 135
removed from their pendent positions, and were for the future to
be permanently fixed against the walls of the houses.
Before we proceed to the description of the alterations and
improvements which have recently been effected in the town of
Leeds, we shall briefly advert to some public buildings which
were erected prior to the conclusion of the last century for the
purposes of amusement. The Theatre was opened in 177L in its
exterior most unprepossessing, and in its situation most inconve
nient. It is one most creditable characteristic of the manners
and of the principles of the inhabitants of Leeds, that although
every exertion has been made to ensure the permanent support
and success of this establishment, and although the most splendid
theatrical " stars" have been brought to emit their beams within
its walls, it has never exhibited any thing like prosperity, and
has occasionally been closed for considerable periods. The follow
ing excellent observations by the continuator of Thoresby are
sufficiently important and impressive to be inserted in our text.
After stating his pleasure in finding that for four years prior to
the publication of his work, the theatre had been shut up, he says,
" Let not this observation be censured as proceeding from a sour
and cynical indifference to theatrical entertainments; on the con
trary, I think them the most elegant and fascinating of all
amusements, but only the more dangerous because they are elegant
and fascinating. If every thing which tends to corrupt the prin
ciples, to debauch the heart, and above all to dishonour the
Almighty, I should, in its connexion with the present subject,
wish and pray that it might assume a shape the most repulsive
and brutal possible. From the corruption of bear-gardens and
boxing matches, the inhabitants of a town like Leeds are in little
danger. But neither does the absence of that gross indecency
which once disgraced the English stage afford any great cause for
triumph ; it would now empty the theatre and starve the actors ;
its immorality at present is just such as to seduce without alarm
ing, to instil impure ideas without exciting a blush, and to extol
as virtues what Christianity condemns as vices of the heart.
But by far the most intolerable quality of the modern stage is its
profaneness. To the incessant insults there offered to the name
of the Supreme Being in wanton exclamations, no one who calls
himself a christian ought to lend an ear. And for such enor
mities, not the endurance but the applause of an English audience

136 LEEDS.
is demanded. If such things are to be countenanced because they
are accompanied by circumstances elegant and fascinating, I am
mistaken in supposing that to discourage immorality by absence
is a duty, or that voluntarily to court temptation because the
object is attractive, may be used with equal force as an apology
for sins from which many of the more fleeting advocates of stage
plays would shrink with horror."*
The Assembly Rooms, over the north side of the White Cloth
Hall, were built 1775, but were not used for some time after-
June 9. wards. In 1777 the Assembly Room, in Assembly Court was
opened, Sir George Savile and Lady Effingham commencing the
proceedings of the evening with a minuet, in the presence of
two hundred and twenty of the neighbouring nobility and gentry.
These meetings were subsequently transferred to the White Cloth
Rooms. The Music Hall, in Albion-Street, was erected in 1792.
The ground floor was for some years occupied as a hall for woollen
manufactures, especially for blankets, and afforded accommoda-
tion to those clothiers who were excluded from the Cloth Halls,
It received, and for some time retained, the ignominious appella
tion of Tom Paine's Hall. It is now appropriated to other
purposes. The Leeds Concerts have long been conducted with
great spirit and considerable success ; the hall however has fre*
quently witnessed exhibitions of a far more impressive character
than its musical assemblies; it has often formed the scene in
which the claims of the noblest institutions of British Christia
nity and benevolence have been presented to the consideration
and the ever ready liberality of the inhabitants of the town.
We have seen how by the Charter of Incorporation granted
by Charles II. the Magistrates of Leeds were impowered to pro
vide a common gaol, which was to be placed under the superin
tendence of the mayor. The prison was long a disgrace to the
town. Placed on the south side of Kirkgate, it abutted so far
into the street as to become an intolerable nuisance to the passen
gers, and its interior accommodations were so defective that its
wretched inmates were deprived of the common comforts of light
and air. In the year 1809 an act was obtained, which among
other things ordained " that a Court-House, with suitable accom
modations, for the more convenient holding of the Quarter Ses.
* Loidis et Elmete, 86, 87.

LEEDS. 137
sjons of the peace, and transacting the business of the borough,
and also a prison for the convenient detention and security of
felons and other prisoners, should be forthwith provided." It was
further enacted, that to defray the expense incurred in the erec
tion of the requisite buildings, a rate should be imposed upon such
messuages and lands as were usually assessed for the poor, which
was not to exceed in the whole one shilling and threepence in the
pound, and of which no more than the third should be raised in
any one year. A convenient plot of ground having been procured
between Park-Row and Infirmary-Street, the foundation stone
was laid on the 2nd of September, 181 1, and the whole was
completed in 1813. The taste of the architect, Mr. Taylor, is
displayed in the front towards Park-Row, and his skill in the
general arrangement of the interior. A portico of Corinthian
columns forms the centre of the front, and the wings have pannels
highly wrought in bas relief, containing the fleece the emblem
of the town, and the fasces as the insignia of justice. On each
side of the vestibule, are the Rotation Office and the Magistrates'
Room, and both communicate with the large hall which affords
accommodation for the assembly of a considerable number of
persons. This hall is frequently used for public meetings of
various descriptions, and for the transaction of those affairs
belonging to the locality, which involve popular discussion and
inquiry. Two galleries are provided in the hall, one for the Grand
Jury, and the other for the ladies ; the Grand Jury room which
is over the vestibule, communicates with their box, while two
other rooms afford accommodation to the Juries and the Counsel.
The ground story presents an open arcade, a guard room, an
engine room, and a gaoler's apartment which overlooks the prison
court, in which there are thirteen cells. A room for militia stores,
an armoury, &c. are accessible through a guard room at the west
end of the building, at which there is likewise a distinct entrance
for the public. The exterior yard is surrounded with a strong
iron palisading. The great defect of this building is the awk
ward and irregular appearance of the south west side ; but this
defect, it is supposed, has been caused by the acute angle formed
by Infirmary-Street with Park-Row, and may therefore be con
sidered as the necessary consequence of the nature of the site.
When the Old Prison with its blackened brick front and side
was pulled down, when the entrance to Kirkgate was thus restored
to its original width, when Commercial-Street, one of the princi-

138 LEEDS..
pal and one of the most commodious avenues into Briggate was
elongated through Park-Row by the Philosophical Hall to the
front of the Infirmary,* and Boar-lane, always incommodioms and
narrow, was relieved of a large proportion of the carriages
and passengers by which it was formerly crowded, an improve
ment was effected of material advantage both to the appearance
and convenience of the town.
The act which provided for the erection of the New Court
House and Prison, was the origin of some of the most useful
improvements effected in the streets and thoroughfares of Leeds,
For the Commissioners t under this act were empowered to pur
chase buildings, projecting or encroaching upon the footpaths, or
causing any obstructions in the markets or streets, and to destroy
or remove them for the general benefit of the town. But at the
same time it was provided, that no such purchases were to be
made but by the consent of three-fourths of the inhabitants
assembled in the vestry of the Parish Church after regular notice,
and that no rate should be imposed in one year amounting to
more than fivepence in the pound on the real annual valuations
made for the poor rates. Nor was this all : the same Commis
sioners were empowered to take proper measures for removing
nuisances of every description from the streets, for securing the
cleanliness of the town, and for obviating the dangers which were
constantly arising from the carelessness and neglect of the diffe
rent mechanics, who were employed in repairing the pavements
and in building or altering houses.
In the course of a few years, it was found that-all the preced.
ing acts of the legislature were insufficient and incomplete, and
another act was obtained to supply these deficiencies. The object
of this act, which received the royal assent May 12, 1815, was
to " amend and enlarge the powers and provisions of the previous
* Part of the great expense of this alteration was defrayed by the grant
of a thousand pounds out of the fund created by a bequest <Sf Thomas Wade,
for the repair of the high roads, made in 1530, to which we have already
alluded, and shall have occasion to describe at length in the fifth book.
f The Commissioners under this act were the Justices of the Peace in the
Borough for the time being, together with the Commissioners appointed
by the previous act in 1790, i.e. the Commissioners of Water Works and
Lamps. See Clause 2, of the act of 49 George III. 1809. By Clause 10 of
the same act it was enacted that seven of these Commissioners were to
constitute a Quorum.

LEEDS, 139
act for erecting the Court House and Prison, to provide for
the expense of the prosecution of felons in certain cases, and
to establish a Police and nightly watch in the town, borough,
and neighbourhood of Leeds." It is evident, therefore, thut this
act was of the highest importance, and that it demands the parti-
lar attention of the reader, since it was virtually the institution
of a new system of municipal police. After providing for the
continuance of the Court House Rate, until the expenses incurred
by the erection of that building were completely defrayed, the
act empowered the Magistrates at the Quarter Sessions, to elect
a Gaoler or Governor of the Prison with other subordinate officers,
to allow the expenses of prosecutions in specified cases, and to offer
proper rewards for the apprehension of offenders. It then arranged
for the general police of the borough, by committing to the
Justices of the Peace the prerogative of appointing a Chief Con
stable with an appropriate salary, and of electing a sufficient number
of persons to be his deputies — by requiring them to select an
adequate body of watchmen and patroles for the town and the
suburbs within one mile of the bars — by enabling them to impose
such rates as were necessary to defray the expense of the new
system of police — and by authorizing them to choose such treasu
rers, collectors, and other officers, as the execution of the act
might require.
Upon this act the present system of police has been founded,
numerous and useful changes for the better have since been made
in this department of municipal arrangement, and it may be
confidently stated that at the present period, the police of this
borough, without any pompous exhibition of authority, is as
active, as efficient, and as well regulated as that of any other pro
vincial town in the kingdom. Leeds is divided into ten districts
in each of which there is a division constable to preserve the peace;
these districts are the Upper Division, the Middle Division, the
Mill-Hill Division, the South Division, Kirkgate Division, the East
Division, the Upper North East Division, the Upper North West
Division, and the Lower North West Division. In each of the
out-townships, a Constable is chosen from among the respectable
inhabitants to whom the department of executive police is intrusted.
The Vagrant Office, established in 1818,for the suppression of men
dicity and vagrancy, is an important appendager to the Police of
Leeds, it has diminished the number of beggars in the streets, it

140 LEEDS.
has placed the lodging houses, those receptacles of vice and filth,
under some degree of regulation, and it has indubitably exerted
a most beneficial influence in the prevention of crime. The
management of this office is vested in a committe of twenty-four,
and its officers are a Superintendant and two special Constables.
The opening of the Wellington Road afforded a new entrance
to the town from the west, and soon became the great avenue for
carriages and passengers from Bradford, Halifax, and Manchester.
The immense manufactories at its western extremity, especially
the Park Mills belonging to Messrs. Gott and sons, indicate to the
traveller the commercial enterprise and opulence of the town.
Wellington Bridge, over the Aire, at the western end of the road
and furnishing commodious access to the populous clothing villa
ges on the south of the river, is a beautiful structure consisting
of an elliptical arch of one hundred feet span, designed and exe
cuted by Rennie at an expense of seven thousand pounds. The
foundation stone of this bridge was laid by B. Gott, Esq. in 1818,
and it was finished in the following year. The Monk Bridge,
which was erected a few years afterwards upon the suspension
principle, and which was intended to be the commencement of a
new line of road to Halifax, has not yet produced any revenue to
its projectors, nor has it involved any advantage to the public. A
very different observation must however be made with reference
to another bridge of far humbler pretensions and far meaner
appearance furtherdown the river. Thewhole district known under
the general name of School Close was formerly a confused labyrinth
of scattered buildings, through which the numerous passengers
proceeding to Holbeck from the western parts of the town,
threaded their way to an inconvenient and sometimes a dangerous
ferry. A wide street however was opened from Mill Hill to the
river, materially increasing the value of the property in the neigh
bourhood, while a foot bridge over the river, opened in 1829,
formed the long wanted communication with the vast population
on the southern side of the Aire.
The removal of that most deplorable deformity fehe Middle
Row in Briggate was a memorable event in the history of Leeds,
and the steps by which this great object was effected deserve
particular description. By the observations of the Leeds Mercury

LEEDS. 141
more particularly, the attention of the public was incessantly
directed to this " consummation most devoutly to be wished." *
In the summer of 1822 Mr. Lucy, an individual well known in
the town, drew up a requisition to the Mayor for a meeting to be
held upon the subject, which he entrusted to Mr. Frederic Rin-
der, then residing in Duncan Street. This original requisition,
being given up by its writer, was transcribed and given to Mr.
Baines, who immediately devoted to it all his influence. In his
office in Briggate, it was shewn to Mr. Cawood and Mr. John
Clapham, who appended their names, and Mr. Baines followed
their example ; it was circulated through the town, and soon
received the signatures of the most influential and respectable
inhabitants. The requisition itself we deem it desirable to pre
serve. " To the Worshipful the Mayor of the Borough of Leeds.
We whose names are hereunto subscribed, do request that you
will call a meeting of the inhabitants of this town to take into
consideration the propriety of adopting such measures as may be
deemed most expedient for removing what has for ages been con
sidered a great nuisance, the Middle Row of Buildings at the top
of Briggate." Three hundred and seventy nine names were
appended to the document. Lepton Dobson, Esq. who was then
the Mayor, entered with alacrity into the views of the requisitors,
and summoned a meeting of the inhabitants of the town to take
place on the thirty first of July.T The spirit exhibited on this
occasion inspired the most sanguine hope that every difficulty
would be vanquished. The proposition of removal was adopted in
an assembly of nearly fifteen hundred persons, with only seven
dissentients. An application was made without delay to parlia
ment for the necessary act, and although the first attempt was
rendered unsuccessful by trivial circumstances, the act was ulti-
* Baines' History of Yorkshire, 1. 19.
f The following notice of this meeting in the Leeds Mercury of the pre
ceding Saturday produced a considerable effect. " It is scarcely necessary to
remind our readers that on Wednesday next, the 31st in'st. at twelve o'clock
at noon, the meeting will be held in the vestry of our parish Church to deter
mine upon the propriety of removing the pile of buildings called the Middle
Row, at the top of Briggate. Upon a subject involving, as this does, so much
public advantage, we hope to find the most perfect unanimity. So great a
good must indeed be purchased with some individual sacrifices, but we are
fully persuaded that no consideration of a private nature will be suffered to
stand in competition with an improvement which will rank the present inha
bitants of Leeds amongst the class of public benefactors for ages to come."

142 LEEDS.
mately obtained. The expense of this great undertaking was
estimated at twelve thousand pounds ; and it was agreed that
this large sum should be raised from the inhabitants by five
annual rates of five-pence in the pound, and one rate of two-pence
in the pound. The expense of such undertakings almost always
exceeds the estimate, and the removal of Middle Row furnished
no exception to the general rule. Some of the owners and tenants
of the condemned buildings retarded the progress of the business
by their obstinacy, and increased its expense by their avarice.
The cost of the whole, including the solicitor's bill, and deducting
five hundred pounds paid for the old materials, amounted to a
little more than fifteen thousand pounds. The first Middle Row
rate was levied in 1825, and it was confidently anticipated that
the whole debt would be cancelled in the present year 1833 —
that anticipation has been fulfilled as far as the Middle Row is
concerned, but the expense of another improvement, the opening
of the Free Market, being charged upon the same rate, it still
continues to be exacted from the inhabitants ; the whole debt,
however, will be extinguished in a little more than two years.
When the Middle Row was removed, and a considerable num
ber of the butchers shops were consequently destroyed, it became
necessary to provide additional and adequate accommodation for
the venders and purchasers of meat. A few preliminary parti
culars, relative to the trade in meat in Leeds, will not be unac
ceptable to the reader.
A custom formerly prevailed among the butchers in Leeds,
altogether unparalleled in any other town in the kingdom. It was
formerly the practice to kill the cattle only on Sunday and Mon
day, and to let the beef thus prepared for use supply not only the
market on Tuesday, but also that on Saturday ; the consequence
was that an immense quantity of meat in warm weather was either
completely spoiled, or when sold was unwholesome and unfit for
public use, so that a larger quantity of unsaleable meat was pro
duced in Leeds than in any other place in England. This evil
was not remedied until the year 1807, when two public spirited
tradesmen* broke in upon the monstrous custom, and the encou
ragement they immediately obtained by this very laudable pro
ceeding, induced all the butchers! after some time to follow their
* Messrs. Samuel and Frederick Rinder.

LEEDS. 143
example. Fourteen years after this, however, it was found that
a large quantity of cattle, in a disordered state, was brought syste
matically to Leeds, and most of it in a dressed state. It was also
lamented that the sanctity of the Sabbath was often violated by
the slaughter of cattle, and by the sale of meat on that day. The
butchers in the town, with a promptitude and spirit which did Nov. 28,
them honour, assembled to terminate these evils by one effectual
and decisive measure. They first declared their intention of
bringing to justice every individual they should be able to detect
in disposing of unwholesome meat, and then they unanimously
resolved " neither to kill any cattle, nor to sell any meat on Sun
days, such practices being contrary to both the laws of God and
man," and to proceed according to law against any butcher found-
guilty of either of these offences.
The project of the New Shambles was one of the most usefu.
ever formed in the town. They consist of streets with commodi
ous shops on each side, extending from Briggate into Vicar Lane,
and affording ample accommodation to the trade. The purchase
of the premises, thus usefully occupied, required a considerable
sum of money, that part of them which formed the site of Old
Square having cost the builders and proprietors six thousand
pounds. Part of the property too belonged to the Pious Use ;
but the consent of the Corporation to the alteration was procured
without much difficulty, because the removal of some of the
slaughter houses, which this project involved,* was a public con
venience which recommended itself to the immediate approbation
of every one who bestowed upon it a moment's consideration. And
added to this circumstance, the erection of the New Shambles so
materially increased the value and the income of the Pious Use
property, that the execution of the design rather conferred a
favour than received one. In consequence of an oversight in not
giving the necessary notice to the occupant of some premises at
the Briggate extremity of the proposed shambles, the work was
commenced at the opposite corner, and the foundation stone was
laid by Mr. Frederick Rinder, to whose spirit and perseverance
this work is principally to be ascribed, on the fifteenth of June,
1823. The undertaking was ultimately accomplished with con
siderable eclat, the speculation was highly successful, and the New
* A new arrangement relative to all the slaughterhouses and offal pans is
much to be desired, and it is sincerely hoped that the magistrates of the town
will at no distant period direct their attention to the removal of these unheal
thy and disgusting nuisances.

144 LEEDS.
Shambles deserve to be ranked among the most laudable and effec
tive improvements in the town.*
The traders in meat in Leeds have now more ample accommo7
dations provided for them than any other class of dealers. Besides
the New Shambles, there are numerous shops provided for them
in the neighbourhood both of the Central and South markets.
The dealers in game, under the new act, have no specific place of
concentration, but are promiscuously scattered over the town.
One of the most signal and beneficial improvements ever
accomplished in the town of Leeds, was the institution of the Free
Market in Vicar Lane and Kirkgate. The Vicar's Croft, as the
plot of ground was called, which is now occupied by the market,
was a field immediately adjoining the Vicarage on the west side,
overgrown with weeds, and the common receptacle of every abo
mination. -How such a place was ever suffered to exist in the
centre of a large town, is indeed astonishing. Mr. Alexander
Turner, one of the aldermen, had long anticipated the possibility
of the transformation of this croft into a public square or market,
and had erected some houses on the north side of it capacitated:
for the purposes of trade. His hopes, however, were never
realized during his life time. Three private individuals, Mr.
Frederick Rinder, Mr. Heaps, and another applied to the
Vicar, and offered to purchase the croft with the intention of
afterwards offering it to the town. In the mean time Mr. Lepton
Dobson repaired to the Vicar, and succeeded in laying the foun
dation of an agreement which ultimately led to the institution of
the Free Market. On the twenty eighth of August, 1823, a
meeting of the most influential inhabitants within one mile of the
bars, was held in the vestry of the parish church, and -decided
unanimously, that the Vicarage House with the outbuildings,
yards, gardens, and croft, including altogether about nine
thousand seven hundred and fifty eight square yards of land,
should be purchased for the purpose of widening the adjoining.
streets and lanes, and improving the market by affording ample
accommodation for the dealers in cattle, pigs, hay, vegetables,
fruit, and other commodities. Because the farmers and graziers,
however, preferred the payment of a consideration, a small toll,
* The estimate formed by the trade of the value of this alteration may be
ascertained from the fact that soon after it was completed, sixty six butchers
published their recommendation of the place " as being by far the most eligi
ble situation which had been offered to their notice."

LEEDS. 145
has since been demanded. The value of the great improvement
which was thus effected can only be estimated by referring to the
almost intolerable nuisances which on market days rendered the
streets almost impassable. The cow market with all its confusion,
the pig market formerly held, in Lower Head Row, the pot mar
ket, the vegetable market, formerly held in Briggate, and the fish
market, held in the middle of the same street, were all at once
removed to a site admirably adapted for the purpose, where pro,-
per stalls were prepared for the cattle, and where every accom
modation was provided for the venders and purchasers of the
usual marketable commodities. In 1827 a fortnight sheep and
cattle fair was instituted in the Free Market, which has ever since
been held on each alternate Wednesday, and has proved equally
convenient to the dealers of the country and the butchers of the
town. The change was beneficial to the vicars, as well as to the
town of Leeds. The ancient vicarage house and the adjoining
premises were given by William Scott of Potternewton, in 1453,
and the house itself, no doubt the third on the site, was rebuilt in
1727, by the Rev. Mr. Cookson, at that time vicar. When the
house and croft were purchased for the market, the parishioners
bought an excellent mansion in Park Square to be the future
residence of the vicars, who were thus removed from the midst of
smoke, and filth, and noise, to one of the best, one of the most
respectable, and one of the most salubrious situations in the
town. The property in the neighbourhood of the market rapidly
rose in value, and the alteration in every sense has proved condu
cive to health, to comfort, to trade, and to universal convenience.
The projectors of the Free Market deserve the gratitude of
Leeds. The Central Market, in Duncan Street, is one of the princi
pal ornaments of the town. The first stone was laid by Lepton
Dobson, Esq. on November 26, 1824, and it was opened on the
6th of October, 1827, with great spirit and animation, and before
a great multitude of spectators. The front exhibits a handsome
elevation of Grecian architecture, consisting of a central division
and lateral wings ; the former is composed of two fluted Ionic
columns, raised on low plinths, with a corresponding number of
anta?, and crowned with an entablature, the words Central
u

146 LEEDS.
Market being inscribed upon the architrave. A lofty door-way
between the columns, leads into the market itself. The wings
are two stories high, the lower story being divided into spacious
shops, and the upper story having three windows on each side of
the centre. The whole elevation is crowned with an architrave,
cornice, and blocking course, and immediately over the centre is
a large acroterium. The interior is very spacious and commodi
ous, the centre is divided into three walks with stalls, and a
gallery is carried round three sides of the building, with a
bazaar on one side. The entire expense of the whole edifice,
including the purchase of the ground, &c. amounted to thirty
five thousand pounds. The small streets or alleys round the
edifice contain a number of shops for butchers and other trades
men. An avenue on the north affords access to Kirkgate and the
Free Market, and a new opening into Briggate completed this
year (1833) and called Market Street, is a great public conve
nience. From the very handsome appearance of the shops, and
the excellent accommodation which they afford to retail dealers
of all descriptions, it is to be hoped that this street will be the
means of rendering the Central Market a more profitable affair
than it has yet proved to its proprietors, and there is no doubt
that it will become one of the most frequented thoroughfares in
the town.
The South Market, between Hunslet and Meadow Lanes,
was projected in 1823. On the sixteenth of June in that year, a
meeting of persons favourable to the undertaking was held in the
Court House, and the Leeds South Market Company was formed.
The funds were provided by four hundred shares at fifty pounds
each. On the sixteenth of October the foundation stone was laid
by George Banks, Esq. This market consists of a number of
commodious and uniform shops for retail dealers, surrounding a
spacious area, in the centre of which is a circular temple or cross,
composed of twelve Doric pillars outside, and the same number
within ; the exterior columns support a bold entablature, and
above is a large cupola with twelve attached columns, and a hemis
pherical dome covered with lead. Mr. Chantrell was' the archi
tect of this market ; both the design and execution are honourable
to his taste and skill. The expense of the whole amounted to
twenty two thousand pounds. This speculation has been a de
cided failure, the expectations of the proprietors have never been

LEEDS. 147
realized, and the income arising from the Quarterly Leather
Fairs,* which are held here, and from the rent of the shops, has
never afforded any thing like adequate interest for the money
which was expended.
Soon after the completion of the South Market, a project was
formed to remove to that place the Corn Market which had long
been held in Cross Parish — a name imposed upon the northern
extremity of Briggate prior to the subversion of the Middle Row*
It was acknowledged by all parties " that among all the institu
tions in the town of Leeds of a commercial character, there was
none of greater importance and interest than an eligible Corn
Market or Corn Exchange, to which all persons could resort with
safety, convenience, and comfort."f But it was contended that the
South Market was a most inconvenient and remote situation, and
that it would be for the benefit both of the agriculturalists, the
dealers, and the inhabitants, were a suitable building to be erected
for the purpose at the summit of Briggate. Three gentlemen J
ascertained that the premises which were deemed the best calcu
lated for the purpose were attainable, and a long lease was
obtained from Mrs Barron, the owner of the ground upon which
the buildings were to be erected, of 999 years, at three hundred
pounds per annum. At the meeting which was held upon the
subject, it was stated that the requisite sum was to be raised by
two hundred and fifty shares of fifty pounds each, and one hun
dred were taken up when the annunciation was made. The first
stone of the present Corn Exchange was laid in a private man
ner by Mr. John Cawood, on the thirty first of May, 1826; that
of the west wing on the twenty seventh of January, 1827 ; and
that of the principal wing, with great solemnity, on the twenty
seventh of August in the same year. The front of this Exchange
is extremely neat, its position is very commanding, and it forms
by far the most striking object in Briggate. Two Ionic columns
with Antae support an entablature and pediment, and a small bell
turret is raised above the whole. Between the columns is a niche
with the statue of Queen Anne we have already described, and
* The first Quarterly Leather Fair was held in the South Market on
October 17th, 1827.
f Speech of Mr. Jonathan Lupton, chairman of the meeting of gentlemen
interested in the question.
I Messrs. F. Rinder, Medley, Jun. and Kemplay.

148 LEEDS.
beneath it is the following inscription : " This statue of Queen
Anne was erected at the cost of Alderman Milner in the front of
the ancient Moot Hall A.D. 1712; was restored at the expense
of the corporation, and transferred to this site A.D- 1828; the
Moot Hall having been purchased by the town and demolished,
A..D. 1825." At the back of the building is a court with a
piazza, where the dealers exhibit their samples and conclude their
sales, and at the left hand side of the entrance is an excellent and
commodious hotel. Mr. S. Chapman was the architect.
The erection of the Corn Exchange was followed by another
improvement which it would be unpardonable not to mention.
Upper Head Row was formerly a narrow and dangerous alley
rather than a street; and its north side consisted of irregular,
unsightly, and inconvenient houses. The w.hole of this side which
was pious use property, with a most praiseworthy attention to
public safety and accommodation, was pulled down, and a hand
some regular range of brick buildings was reared, while the street
was considerably widened, and an excellent pavement was pro
vided for the passengers.
The most splendid, elegant, and classical structure in Leeds,
and by far the most honourable to the taste and public spirit
of its inhabitants, is that which is generally designated the
Commercial Buildings. The site is the most eligible which could
possibly have been selected, opposite the grand entrance into the
town from the west, immediately in front of the greatest Cloth-
market in the world, and in the vicinity of the most Opulent,
the most respectable, and the most handsome departments of
Leeds. The preparatory arrangements of the proprietors Were
conducted with equal prudence and liberality, and obtained the
general approbation of their fellow townsmen. Mr. Clark was
May 18, the architect they employed, and the first stone was laid by Lepton
Dobson, Esq. whose name is connected with so many of the public
buildings of the borough. The plan of this magnificent Structure
is a parallelogram, with its southwestern corner rounded off, and
formed into a spacious and elegant portico- The entire edifice
is of stone, and the architecture is Grecian. The portico is com
posed of four fluted Ionic columns, crowned with an entablature
and surmounted with an attic concave in its form and the
hollow of which is filled with steps set on in the main wall of the
building. Behind the portico rises a circular dome, crowned with

1826.

LEEDS. 149
a cornice, and enriched with Grecian tiles. The southern front
presents five divisions constituted by four engaged columns of the
same order with those of the portico, and two antae ; the whole
crowned with an entablature and attic continued from the portico,
the attic being broken by pilasters above the columns. Two tier
of five windows each, separated by pannels, appear in the prin
cipal intercolumnication. The western front precisely corres
ponds with the southern, except that it has two engaged columns,
and the tiers contain only three windows each. The northern
and western fronts not being so completely open to observation,
are of a plainer character but harmonize with the other parts
of the building. The interior corresponds with the external
appearance of the structure; the staircase, formed within a
circular hall thirty-four feet in diameter and crowned with
a beautiful panelled dome and a light of stained glass, is
very magnificent. The news room to the right of the ves
tibule is the handsomest apartment in the building, and is
equal in general appearance to any other in the kingdom. The
concert room, above the news room, is also large and richly orna
mented, and is admirably adapted for public purposes. There
are several other excellent apartments devoted to various objects ;
on the western side is the office of the Assurance Company, and
part of the building has usually been occupied as an hotel. The
whole expense incurred by the purchase of the ground and the
building amounted to nearly thirty-five thousand pounds. The
news room was opened on May-day, 1829, with five hundred
subscribers of one guinea and a half per annum, and the whole
interior was completely finished and formally opened on the
twelfth of October in the same year.

150

SECTION V. LEEDS CONTINUED.

The improvement which was effected some years ago on Tilla
ble Bridge, and on the North side of the Old Church, must not
be forgotten in this enumeration. This bridge, vulgarly called
Timble Brigg, is a corruption of Temple, the Temple Bridge,
and received its name as being in the way to the establishment
at Temple Newsam. The street at the bottom of Kirkgate
was formerly so narrow as to be not only inconvenient but
dangerous, but by the removal of an abutting corner of the church
yard, it has been widened so as to allow of free transit to the
numerous vehicles and passengers to and from the great roads to
York and Ferrybridge.
Another improvement remains to be noticed in this neigh
bourhood between the Old Church and the river in the Calls,
where a wide street has been opened running parallel with the
river. With reference to the name just mentioned, The Calls, two
derivations have been given. It has been supposed on the one
hand that the name was derived from some old piles, usually deno
minated Calls, on the banks of the river — and on the other hand
from the Latin word Callis, a beaten path, whence Calls. The
former of these derivations appears the more probable. At the
beginning of the last century, the Calls consisted of a footway
through verdant fields and flowery gardens ; and Thoresby* tells
us that Alderman Cookson had erected here "a very pleasant
seat with terras walks, &c." And Thoresby himself built his
summer house in the midst of these delightful scenes. What a
change now to the numerous raff yards, the noisy streets and dense
population ! It is unnecessary to observe that Call Lane derived
its name from its proximity to the Calls.
The commutation of all the mixed and personal tithes pay-
* Ducat. 76.

LEEDS. 151
able to the Vicar and Clerk of Leeds, was happily accomplished
in the same year in which the purchase of the ground of the Free
Market was completed. To understand the nature of the nuisance
which was thus taken away, and to illustrate the nature of similar
nuisances in other parts of the country, we shall give a brief
statement of the tithes which the Vicar was entitled to exact.
The tithes or agistment of herbage of turnips sown and eaten
upon the ground by barren and unprofitable cattle, and which if
sold, the tithes were to be paid by the occupier of the ground
after the rate of one tenth of the money the turnips were sold
for — the agistment of barren and unprofitable cattle, and the tithe
of potatoes grown and gathered, and turnips pulled from the
ground — the payment of threepence yearly from each householder
residing within the bars of the town in respect of his dwelling-
house, and one penny annually for an Easter offering — the payment
of twopence annually in lieu of the tithes of an ancient garden, and
a customary payment of twopence annually in lieu of tithes of an
ancient orchard — the payment of a penny in respect of each
" plow" kept upon every tenement in the parish, and the pay
ment of twopence in lieu of each calf dropt and of the milk of
each cow, and of one halfpenny in lieu of eggs of each duck, and
twopence annually in lieu of tithe of hens' eggs laid upon each
tenement — an offering annually for each person above the age of
sixteen years resident in the family of each householder in the
parish — the tithe of rapeseed, common, and other modern gar
dens — the annual payment of six shillings in lieu of tithe milk
whenever a parishioner kept twelve cows, for six cows two shillings,
for six calves dropt in one tenement in one year six shillings,
five calves one shilling and fourpence, and four calves tenpence —
the payment of twopence annually from each householder residing
within the bars, one penny for the tithe agistment of one dry
and unprofitable cow, one penny in lieu of tithes of bees, except
where six swarms are had in one year, in which case one swarm
is due, one penny in lieu of tithes of eggs layed by each turkey,
and sixpence in lieu of each foal dropt within the parish. And
the Vicar was also entitled to all other tithes great and small,
offerings, and other ecclesiastical dues within the parish, except
the tithes of corn, grain, and hay, and of the King's Mills.
Now letting alone the impolicy and injustice of thus taxing the
produce of the field, the stock of the farm yard, and the general
industry of the people, it is obvious that these imposts can never

L52 LEEDS.
be collected without the exeitement of every description of feel
ing inimical to the welfare of the church and the comfort of its
ministers. The immense public benefit of the commutation of
tithes in the town and parish of Leeds, is principally attributable
to the munificence of Richard Fountayne Wilson, Esq. It was
arranged that these tithes were to be commuted upon the payment
of an annual income to the Vicar of five hundred pounds arising
from fourteen thousand pounds. Mr. Wilson gave seven thou
sand pounds of this sum, and the other half was raised by public
subscription. The commutation commenced in the year 1823.
Among the public buildings in Leeds, the Baths in Wellington
Street deserve distiasct reference. The architect wasMr.Chantreu,
and the first stone was laid May 15, 1819. The exterior of this
edifice is too low to produce much effect, but it displays elegant
and classical taste. The centre is distinguished by two couples
of Ionic columns, supporting an entablature, and at the end are
coupled pilasters. The interior contains two complete suits of
apartments, those in the west wing being appropriated to the
ladies, and those in the east to the gentlemen. The water is
derived from an excellent spring at the distance of ninety yards
from the surface, and the baths consist of cold and shower, and
Matlock and Buxton baths, at their respective temperatures.
The Barrack System, especially in large and populous manu
facturing towns, may without any hesitation be pronounced an
unmixed and an enormous evil. From this curse Leeds is not
exempt. The spacious cavalry barracks at Buslingthorpe,
between the roads to Roundhay and Chapel AUerton, were built
in 1819 and 1820, when it was foolishly supposed that the
manufacturing districts were on the verge of insurrection and
rebellion. Messrs. Whitaker and Craven were the contractors
for the buildings, and the expense of their erection, with the
necessary appendages, amounted to upwards of twenty ive
thousand pounds. The barracks for the officers and men, the
stables and the parade grounds, occupy rather more than eleven
acres, and the situation is both salubrious and commanding. The
head quarters and the largest proportion of a regiment of cavalry,
have usually been stationed at these barracks, but latterly some
horse artillery and a troop of dragoons have constituted the whole
of the military force at the station.

LEEDS. 153
Some years since a magnificent plan was formed of erecting
some spacious and elegant streets, squares, &c. in the neighbour
hood of the barracks, upon the whole of which the name of the
New Town of Leeds was to be imposed. Although a very large
sum of money was expended in preparing the ground and form
ing the lines of the intended streets, the project has never yet
been accomplished.
The Commercial, the Literary, the Ecclesiastical, and the
Charitable buildings, will be described in their respective places.
The parochial affairs of the township of Leeds are managed
by a Committee consisting of the Churchwardens and Overseers,
with the co-operation of twelve of "the principal inhabitants,"
chosen at the vestry meetings by the rate payers. These officers
hold their committee meetings weekly in the afternoon of Wednes
day for the relief of the casual poor, and for the transaction of the
public business. Neither the Overseers nor the Trustees, as such,
take any part in the management of the secular affairs of the
Church that duty being confided solely to the Churchwardens.* '
About a dozen years ago a long and animated controversy arose
in this township and parish relating to the publication of the
public accounts, one party of the parishioners contending
strongly for the annual exhibition of these accounts in a printed
form, and the other resisting that claim with equal decision. Mr.
Baines, one of the Trustees of the Workhouse, by whom the claim
on the part of the parishioners was first advanced, insisted that it
was the right of every rate-prayer to know how his money was
expended, and to be furnished with every facility at fixed periods
for ascertaining and comparing the yearly expenditure; while on
the other hand it was alledged that this was an useless inno
vation, that the parishioners had hitherto been satisfied with
referring to the parish books when they wished to make any
examination, and that it was sufficient if the Committee forming
the Workhouse Board and the Churchwardens had an annual
* For the very lucid statement which follows this paragraph, the author
is indebted to the gentleman by whose most laudable perseverance, principle,
and public spirit the great work of reform in the parochial expenditure has
been accomplished, and who, if he had done nothing else for the town of which
he has for so many years been a useful inhabitant, would be fully entitled to
its permanent gratitude. X

154 LEEDS.
statement made out of the accounts of the township and of the
Parish Church for their audit and inspection.
For two or three years such of the parish officers as sup.
ported the old system were enabled to resist the call for publica
tion, but the demand every year became more loud and imperative,
till at length it was determined by a majority of the parishioners
to stop the supplies, or at most not to vote any thing more than
was absolutely necessary either for the maintenance of the church
or for any public improvement in the town. Lepton Dobson,
Esq. who had witnessed the protracted struggle with interest, on
being elevated in the year 1821 to the office of Mayor of the
Borough, took the first public opportunity to declare that he was
a friend to the utmost publicity in all matters of public trust,
and that so far from resisting the loudly raised call for the publi
cation of the parish accounts, he. should, to the best of his power,
promote that object. Further resistance was soon found unavail
ing, the accounts relating both to the relief of the poor, and the
upholding of the edifice of the church, were soon after published,
and from about the year 1819 to the present time that salutary
practice has been continued annually.
The yearly amount of the expenditure upon the Parish
Church had long been a matter of complaint, particularly amongst
the parishioners residing in the out-townships of the parish, and
amongst those who did not join in the public ordinances of the
established church ; it was not however till it had been resolved
to erect three new churches within this township by the Church
Commissioners appointed by Parliament, and till the pressure
arising from the outfit and annual maintenance of those churches
began to be felt, that the parish reformers, consisting principally
of those who had so long and so strenuously demanded the publi
cation of the accounts, began to insist upon a more rigid system
of economy than had hitherto prevailed in this branch of the
•public expenditure. Here the resistance made to all change was
again very strong. The proposal to reduce this branch of the
parish imposts one half, was treated as a visionary project, propa-
pagated to mislead the public, but wholly incapable of being
reduced to practice. The event, however, proved that all that
had been anticipated could be realized, Churchwardens favour
able to economy were chosen, and in the hands of Mr. John
Armitage Buttery, the senior Churchwarden, and his fellow

LEEDS.

155

officers, the average annual expenditure has been reduced nearly
one thousand pounds a year, though there are now four churches
to uphold and was formerly only one,* as will be seen from the
following notice extracted from the parish books:—

.atement of the Amount of Church

Rates collected

in the Parish of Leeds,

or the last Thirty Years

exclusive of the sums collected for Burial Ground.

£.

s. d.

£,. s. d.

£. a, d.

1803.... 1286

2 9

1813...

. 1856 0 0

1823  1496 18 8

1804.... 1196

3 6

1814...

. 1253 7 7

1824.... 1719 4 11

1805  690

19 4

1815...

. 1978 11 1

1825. ...1652 11 11

1806.... 919

14 4

1816...

.2290 19 1

1826.... 1344 2 6

1807  1203

6 0

1817...

. 1967 2 11

1827  842 15 7

1808.... 1535

1 10

1818...

. 1103 11 5

1828  2115 16 3

1809.... 1667

19 6

1819...

. 1402 14 6

1829  989 5 9

1810.... 2447

9 10

1820...

. 1782 5 6

1830.... 866 0 11

1811.... 2428

3 6

1821...

. 1245 5 0

1831.... 721 10 9

1812.... 2516

15 7

1822. . .

. 1253 1 5

1832.... 562 16 5

The extraordinary saving within the four last years is prin
cipally to be attributed to the judicious choice made by the
parishioners of their officers, and to that watchful attention over
their own affairs which is the best, and indeed the only perma
nent security against profusion.
The year 1832 was signalised in the history of Leeds by the
visitation of that awful scourge the Malignant Cholera. This is
not the place to enter upon any statement of the nature of the
disease, its original source, the mode of its propagation, the pre
vention of its ravages, or the methods of its cure. Nor will it
correspond with the design of this work to trace its progress in
this kingdom in general. We have simply to describe its appa
rent causes, its advance, and its decline in this town. The first
case occurred on the twenty-sixth of May 1832, in the person of
a child two years old, of Irish parents, residing in the Blue Bell
Fold. With respect to the origin of the disease, Mr. Robert Baker,
to whom the town is deeply indebted for the care with which he
has investigated the subject, states, " It is true that at this time
the Cholera prevailed at Goole and Selby lower down the river,
but by the most careful inquiries, I am not able to trace any con
nexion between those places and Leeds, by which the disease

* St. Mark's Church, at Woodhouse, was last year declared a, district
church, and will not in future come into the general returns of the parish.

156 LEEDS.
might have been communicated to this child ; on the contrary,
its age, its situation, and other circumstances, forbid the possibi
lity of such an occurrence." *
Every possible precaution had been taken prior to the appear
ance of the disease, to counteract its progress; and every expedient
that human prudence could suggest, that human benevolence
could afford, and that human skill could apply, was adopted with
the utmost promptitude by one of the most efficient local Boards
of Health in the kingdom. All nuisances and collections of filth
were removed from the streets and the neighbourhood of the
houses ; the dwelling places of the poor were whitewashed and .
cleaned ; large sums of money were collected by subscription to be
expended in providing warm clothing and nourishment for the
poor;t in each district into which the town was divided, experi
enced medical men were appointed to administer the requisite
assistance to the sick ; an excellent hospital, with medical and
other attendants, was provided ; an earnest entreaty was pub
lished to every one attacked with premonitory symptoms, to
apply without delay for professional advice; and similar addresses
were circulated to demonstrate the vast importance of prudence,
cleanliness, and temperance.
Notwithstanding, however, every precaution, the disease made
rapid progress ; it arrived at its height in August ; and after
wards gradually subsided, until in November it entirely disap
peared. In the month of May, there were two cases and one
death — in June, there were one hundred and sixty-four cases,
forty-two deaths, and seventy-one recoveries — in July, there were
four hundred and twenty-seven cases, one hundred and eighty-
seven deaths, and two hundred and fifty-five recoveries — in August,
there were six hundred and sixty-eight cases, two hundred and
seventy-three deaths, and three hundred and seventy-two recove
ries — in September, there were three hundred and thirty-four
cases, one hundred and twenty-three deaths, and two hundred
and twenty-eight recoveries — in October, there were two hundred
and sixteen cases, seventy-three deaths, and one hundred and
eighty-two recoveries — and up to November 12th there were six
new cases, while three deaths, and seventeen recoveries completely
cleared the hospital. The greatest number of cases was on the
sixteenth of August, when there were fifty-nine cases and twenty-
* Report of the Leeds Board of Health, 7.
f This excellent example of benevolence was almost solitary.

LEEDS.. 157
one deaths. During the whole period of the disease, there were
one thousand eight hundred and seventeen cases, seven hundred
and two deaths, and one thousand one hundred and fifteen reco
veries. Mr. Baker has collected some curious particulars relative
to this disease. It appears from his statement, that in one family
several persons were attacked at one time ; in another, five ; in
three others, four; in seven others, three; and in. fifty three
others, two. One person had the disease three times and reco
vered, and three persons had it twice, of whom two recovered, and
one died. Although many of the medical men were attacked
with premonitory symptoms while they were in attendance on the
sick, not one of them had it in its blue stage, and only one of the
hospital nurses had it in its worst form.
If calamity is to be estimated by comparison, then the visita
tion of the cholera, appalling and afflictive as it was, will appear
insignificant when the tremendous ravages of the plague in 1645,
of which we have already given a history, are brought to recol
lection. On that occasion, one thousand three hundred and
twenty five persons, supposed by an accurate investigation to have
been one fifth of the whole population, died ; on the latter occa
sion, seven hundred and two persons died, about the one hundred
and eighth of the whole population. We have already stated
(p. 100) that in the former case, the disease principally prevailed
and was the most fatal, in those parts of the town which were the
most dirty, the most densely inhabited, the worst ventilated, and
where the majority of those unfortunate persons resided who may
be supposed to have been the most addicted to vice and intem
perance. The same statement will apply to the cholera, Mr.
Baker specifying the Boot and Shoe Yard, Baxter's Yard,
Quarry Hill, Cherry Tree Yard, Goulden's Buildings, Lemon
Street, Marsh Lane, Fleece Lane, and Lee's Yard, as the places
where the highest lists of cholera attacks were produced.
Calamity is seldom unmitigated, and good is almost always
elicited from evil. The occurrence of the cholera is likely to
prove the means of effecting one of the greatest improvements in
the town of Leeds, and of inducing an alteration absolutely neces
sary to the health of its inhabitants. The state of the sewers,
water courses, and drains in the town has long been most deplora
ble, and there is no reason to doubt that the disease was greatly
aggravated by the filth of every description,* which had been per-
* The disease has prevailed in Leeds most particularly in those parts of it

158 LEEDS.
mitted to accumulate for ages in those worse than useless recep
tacles of every abomination. But this state of things will now be
no longer endured ; the attention of the inhabitants has been
fully aroused to the subject ; and a general change must soon be
effected. The medical men of Leeds have laudably distinguished
themselves by their earnest, their forcible representations upon
this subject. By the desire of the Board of Health they met at
Jan. 16. the commencement of the present year (1833) and passed the
following resolution, on the motion of Dr. Williamson, seconded
by Mr. Garlick, Dr. Thorp being in the chair — " That we whose
names are undersigned are of opinion, that the streets in which
malignant cholera prevailed most severely, were those in which
the drainage was most imperfect ; and that the state of the gene.
rai health of the inhabitants would be greatly improved, and the
probability of a future visitation from such malignant epidemics
diminished, by a general and efficient system of drainage, sewer
age, and paving, and the enforcement of better regulations as to
the cleanliness of the streets." This resolution was signed by six
physicians and thirty eight surgeons. Five days afterwards,
Jan. 21. this resolution, and the very elaborate report upon the subject by
Mr. Baker were adopted at a meeting of the Board of Health ;
that body formally declared their opinion, that a general act of
parliament for sewering, draining, cleansing, and paving, would
prove a public benefit; it was determined that an application
upon the subject should be made to the proper department of
government, and John Marshall, Jun. Esq., one of the newly
elected members of parliament for the borough, undertook to wait
personally upon the proper authorities in London, and to call
their particular attention to the facts and arguments contained in
the report.*
We cannot conclude this brief account of the visit of the cho
lera to Leeds, without asserting, that the gratitude of the town is
where from a want of local cleanliness and ventilation a malignant state of
the atmosphere was likely to obtain. In such situations, the epidemic malaria
seems to have infested the dwellings of the inhabitants. Baker, p. 8.
* There is one sentence in the pamphlet of Mr. Baker which demandi
serious consideration. " I think I have made out a case sufficiently strong to
warrant the presumption, that whether the disease be sporadical, epidemical,
or endemical — whatever may be the secret cause, there is evidence enough
before this board, of the condition of some parts of the town of Leeds in which
it may be latently maintained." To prevent then the recurrence of the disease
it is absolutely necessary that the alteration should take place.

LEEDS. 159
justly demanded by the general arrangements of the Board of
Health, and the most meritorious and truly admirable conduct of
the medical men ; and that the active and munificent benevolence
displayed by a very large proportion of the inhabitants in this
awful crisis, towards those who by their unfortunate and destitute
circumstances were peculiarly liable to the ravages of the disease,
will impart a lustre, to the latest posterity, to one of the brightest
pages in the whole history of the town.
We have already described the transaction which occurred in
Leeds during the Commonwealth, and which issued in the return
of Adam Baynes, Esq. of Knowstrop, to parliament as the repre
sentative of the town. After the lapse of one hundred and seventy
years, it became probable from some proceedings of the legislature,
that it would again be entrusted with the honour of sending
members to the house of Commons. The corruption and profli
gacy which had been clearly proved against the electors of Gram-
pound, induced Lord John Russel to bring a bill into parliament
to disfranchise that insignificant borough, and that no diminution
might be effected in the number of the popular representatives,
that nobleman proposed that Leeds, having " of late years
become a place of great trade, population, and wealth, should
return two burgesses to serve in parliament in lieu of the said
borough of Grampound." Had this bill passed into an act, the
inhabitants of Leeds would have been placed on pretty near the
same footing as they have occupied since the establishment of the
great measure of reform, for it was proposed that every individual
holding property to the amount of ten pounds per annum, should
have a vote. Mr. Wortley, afterwards Lord Wharncliffe, how
ever, thought that this would create too extensive a constituency,
and he therefore proposed that the qualification of an elector
should be raised to twenty pounds per annum. This proposition
was acceded to by the house of Commons, but the bill was thrown
out of the Lords, and it was ultimately enacted, that the county
should return four members instead of two. Had the measure of
Lord John Russel been carried, it would have been impossible to
have refused the elective franchise to Manchester, to Birmingham,
and to Sheffield ; and had the practice of transferring the fran
chises of corrupt boroughs to populous towns been adopted, it is
probable that the extensive reform in the whole system of repre
sentation which has lately been accomplished, would not have
been achieved at so early a period.

160 LEEDS.
By the memorable act of 1832, the right of the borough of
Leeds to return two members to the house of Commons was
finally recognized. To describe the anxiety which prevailed in
this town during the alarming period when the Reform Bill, and
the administration by which it was introduced and supported,
were in jeopardy — to give a detailed history of the numerous
public meetings which were held, of the energetic spirit which
was displayed, and of the overwhelming manner in which public
opinion lifted up its voice in the borough of Leeds at this crisis
in the national affairs, would occupy too extended a space in these
volumes ; we can only state that the proceedings adopted by the
inhabitants of Leeds not only coincided with the general senti
ments and convictions of the vast majority of the people in every
part of the kingdom, but materially contributed to sustain the
hopes and invigorate the exertions of the other towns in the
West Riding, and had no inconsiderable influence upon the legis?
lature and the empire.
After the dissolution of the last parliament under the old
system, three candidates were brought forwards by the two great
political parties in the borough of Leeds. Thomas Babington
Macaulay, Esq. and John Marshall Jun. Esq. were proposed by
the Liberal, or Whig party, and Michael Thomas Sadler, Esq. by
the Blue or Tory party. A description of the respective qualifi
cations of these gentlemen will be found in the note below.* On
* " One of the gentlemen called forward by the liberal party was T. B.
Macaulay, Esq. the late member for Calne, and one of the Commissioners of
the Board of Control for the affairs of India, the most eloquent supporter,
and one of the most ardent friends of the Reform Bill in the House of Com
mons, who, being personally unknown to every one of the individuals who
called him forward, and unconnected with the borough, was invited, and now
stands purely on the ground of his public principles and character, and of the
distinguished services he has rendered to the country. Mr. Macaulay was in
vited many months before he accepted office under his Majesty's Government;
yet the fact of his acceptance of office did not make the slightest difference in
the attachment of his friends, or rather it increased their zeal, as they were
desirous of testifying their gratitude to the administration to whose great and
patriotic measure of Reform this borough owes the possession of its franchise,
and the country the renovation of its representative system. The other gentle
man, to whom the liberal electors of Leeds were desirous of confiding their
representation in Parliament, was John Marshall, jun. Esq. son of the venera
ble and patriotic gentleman, who lately represented the county of York in
Parliament. Mr. Marshall had made himself known to his fellow-townsmen,
as the firm and consistent supporter of Civil and Religious Liberty and Parli
amentary Reform, as the enemy of all monopolies, and practically, as well as

LEEDS. 161
Tuesday, September 4, 1832, the candidates presented themselves
to the electors in the area of the Mixed Cloth Hall, and their
canvass was afterwards instituted with great activity and spirit ;
Mr. Sadler adopting the old system of proceeding from house to
house and personally soliciting the votes of the electors, while the
liberal candidates declined to avail themselves of the advantages
of personal application, but at the same time addressed the elec
tors in all the great divisions of the borough, at once to exhibit
their own opinions upon the great topics of local and national
interest, and to answer the inquiries which might be proposed by
those who entertained any hesitation or demanded any satisfac
tion upon their political principles. The Revising Barrister
appointed by the Reform law, Wilkinson Matthews, Esq. held his
court on Wednesday, October 24, and the result of the proceed
ings was highly favourable to the liberals. The activity of the
two great parties in the town from this period to the day of nomi
nation was unbounded, and the utility and efficiency of the
different systems of canvassing adopted was fairly tried before
the contest was ultimately decided.
On Dec. 10, 1832, the day of nomination, both the parties
mustered in considerable strength. Messrs. Marshall and Macau
lay with their friends breakfasted at the Commercial Buildings,
and Mr. Sadler and his friends at Crossland's Hotel. Hustings
were erected in the area of the Mixed Cloth Hall, capable of con
taining five hundred persons ; here the candidates appeared with
their principal supporters ; and twenty thousand persons occupied
the space in front. About ten o'clock, the Mayor, Thomas Ten
nant, Esq., opened the proceedings of the day. Henry Hall, Esq.
then proposed Michael Thomas Sadler, Esq. and William Beckett,
theoretically, the zealous friend of popular education ; as intimately acquainted
with the principles and details of commerce; and as possessing sound judg
ment, entire independence, and habits of diligent application.
" The candidate brought forward in opposition to these gentlemen was
Michael Thomas Sadler, Esq. then member for Aldborough, a gentleman of
considerable talent, who had then made himself conspicuous in the country by
his opposition to Religious Liberty, to Parliamentary Reform, and to Freedom
of Trade, as well as, more honourably, by his advocacy of Poor Laws in Ireland,
and the introduction of a Bill into the House of Commons, to limit the labours
of children in factories to ten hours per day. Mr. Sadler was brought forward
by the Tory party, amongst which were several members of the Leeds Corpo
ration, and his cause was also joined by a number of persons of the opposite
extreme in politics, who rested their support on his introduction of the Ten
Hours Bill." v

162 LEEDS.
Esq. seconded the nomination. Thomas Benyon, Jun. Esq.
proposed John Marshall, Jun. Esq. and James Musgrave, Esq.
seconded the nomination. John Marshall, Esq. the late member
for the county, proposed Mr. Macaulay, and George Rawson, Esq.
seconded the nomination. When the usual shew of hands was
called for, the Mayor unhesitatingly pronounced it to be in favour
of Messrs. Marshall arid Macaulay. A poll was then demanded
by Mr. Hall, for Mr. Sadler, and the Mayor appointed it to com
mence on the ensuing Wednesday morning. The proceedings on
this occasion were interrupted by a disgraceful riot which at one
time assumed the most alarming appearance, and in which, as is
usual in similar cases, both parties were equally culpable. When
Mr. Marshall came forward to propose Mr. Macaulay, some of the
blue party placed before him a flag, inscribed "A scene in Water
Lane at five o'clock in the morning," on which was depicted his
own mill in Water Lane, with a number of children passing through
a snow storm'to their work. The liberals resented this proceed
ing, a tremendous cry of " Down with it," resounded through the
assembly, a number of the adherents of Marshall and Macaulay
made a rush upon the possessors of the obnoxious banner, and
succeeded after a brisk conflict in pulling it down. Violence was
repaid with violence. The blues made a desperate charge upon
their opponents, and a regular battle was fought ; sticks, blud
geons, and the broken pieces of the poles of banners were used as
the offensive weapons; many persons were thrown down and
trampled upon, arid others received dreadful cuts on the head and
face ; a considerable number of the orange party retired for a
short time from the yard ; and the proceedings were not resumed
until a great number of special constables were ordered by the
Mayor to station themselves in a direct line from the middle of the
hustings to the other side of the yard, and thus to form a marked
division between the hostile parties. It is sincerely hoped that
such a scandalous scene will never again be witnessed in this town.
Eleven persons were taken to the Infirmary, four of whom were
so seriously hurt that they were immediately placed on the list of
in-patients. On Wednesday the twelfth of December the polling commen
ced with great activity. The following were the arrangements
made on the occasion. The polling booth for the South and South
west divisions was placed at No. 39, East Buildings, near the
South Market in Hunslet Lane — the booth for the Mill Hill Divi
sion, at the Court House in Park Row — the booth for the Lower

LEEDS. 163
North-west Division, at the Coloured Cloth Hall in Infirmary
street — the booth for the North and Upper North-east Divisions,
at the Free Grammar School in North street — the booth for the
High Town Division, at the Corn Exchange in Briggate — the
booth for the Kirkgate Division, at the Assembly Rooms — the
booth for the East, North East, Lower North East, and South
East Divisions, at the house next below the Sir John Falstaff in
St. Peter's Square— and the booth for the Upper North West
Division, at the dwelling house, No. 44, Cobourg Street. For the
out townships the following facilities were afforded for voting.
The booth for Hunslet was fixed at the Methodist School Room
in Hunslet — the booth for Holbeck and Beeston, at the Overseer's
Committee Room adjoining the Workhouse in Holbeck — the booth
for Wortley, Armley, and Farnley, at the Star public house in
Wortley — the booth for Bramley, at the public School Room in
the Methodist Chapel Yard — the booth for Headingley-cum-Bur-
ley, at the public school room occupied by Mr. Brook at Heading-
ley — and the booth for Chapel AUerton and Potter Newton, at the
dwelling house lately occupied by Mr. Farmery, near the chapel
in Chapel AUerton. On Thursday afternoon the poll, which had
been conducted throughout with great order and regularity, finally
closed, and on Friday morning the result was officially declar
ed by the Mayor as returning officer, in the Yard of the Mixed
Cloth Hall. The following table will shew the state of the poll at
each of the booths. Marsh. Mac. Sad.
Booth A. South and South West Divisions  165 157 79
Booth B. Mill Hill Division  170 161 149
Booth C. Lower North West Division  163 170 130
Booth D. North, and Upper North East Divisions 169 172 152
Booth E. High Town Division  168 150 173
Booth F. Kirkgate Division  134 130 102
Booth G. East, North East, Lower North East, and
South East Divisions  179 183 122
Booth H. Upper North West Division  140 125 151
OUT TOWNSHIPS.
Booth I. Hunslet  146 152 65
Booth K. Holbeck and Beeston  143 134 91
Booth L. Wortley, Armley, and Farnley  139 164 166
Booth M. Bramley  201 205 81
Booth N. Headingley-cum-Burley  50 36 53
Booth O. Chapel AUerton and Potternewton ... . 45 45 82
Total  2012 1984 1596

164 LEEDS.
The Majority for Mr. Marshall was therefore four hundred
and sixteen, and for Mr. Macaulay three hundred and eighty
eight. At a quarter before eleven o'clock, on Friday, December 14,
the Mayor and a number of the electors executed the indenture
of return, and the former terminated the contest by saying " I
have now the pleasure of telling you that the return of two
burgesses to parliament for this borough is completed, and in
your name and in my own, I heartily congratulate the successful
candidates, and wish them all health and happiness, and I have
no doubt that they will do credit to your choice, and prove active,
useful, and independent members of parliament." • Messrs. Mar
shall and Macaulay, Lord Morpeth who happened to be present,
and Mr. Fawkes of Farnley, then addressed the electors, and
thanks were voted by acclamation to the Mayor. The members
were then chaired in triumph through the principal streets of the
town, in the presence of an immense concourse of people, and their
return was celebrated by a dinner at the Commercial Buildings
in the evening.
Thus terminated the first election for the borough of Leeds—
a memorable epoch in its history. No remarks are required to
illustrate the importance of the event to the commercial, the
manufacturing, and the general interests of the district and of
the kingdom. During the course of this election, as is almost
unavoidable on such occasions, the spirit of party was carried to
a violent extreme, and angry passions were excited by recrim
ination and abuse. The effervescence began, however, to subside
as soon as the conflict was finished, and it is hoped that in the
course of time its very traces will be eradicated. It may be
added that as a tribute of respect to the important interests he
represents, Mr. Marshall was selected on the meeting of the first
Reform parliament to second the address on the royal speech.
We shall now place before the reader some miscellaneous par
ticulars relative to the history of Leeds, which could not be
systematically arranged in the preceding narrative.
Among the numerous floods with which this town has been
visited, the highest and most tremendous ever known occurred
on the 20th and 21st of October, 1775, when the bridges at
Calverley and Swillington were destroyed, and it is stated that
a hare escaped from the inundation by stationing itself upon the
body of a drowned sheep as it floated down the stream, The

LEEDS. 165
height to which the water rose in the lower parts of the town,
has been commemorated by a notice at the corner of Water Lane.
In December, 1790, there was another great flood when several
bridges were destroyed, and Mr. Gilyard's dye house, on Sheepscar
Beck, was washed away with a large quantity of cloth. Again
on the 9th of February, 1795,' there was a most destructive flood
produced by a rapid thaw and a heavy rain, and incalculable mis
chief was done both by the torrent itself and the large blocks of
ice which were hurried down the river. On this occasion Leeds
Bridge was in considerable danger. A boat carried away from
its fastenings, was forced on its broad-side across one of the
arches, and had it not been broken to pieces by the force of the
ice and water, there is every reason to believe that the whole
fabric would have been materially damaged if not destroyed. As
it was, horses, carts, timber, and furniture, were carried away, and
three men were drowned at Hunslet dam. Similar occurrences
took place in 1799, 1806, 1807, 1816, and 1822. The most re
markable, although not the most destructive flood which has ever
been known in the river Aire, was in 1824. On the night of
September 2nd, in that year, the inhabitants on the banks of the
river were astonished to perceive it swelled in a few moments to
a very considerable height by a frightful accumulation of black
water, which prevented the dyehouses and similar establishments
from working, destroyed the fish in the river, and effected
immense damage in its irresistible course. This strange inun
dation was produced by the sudden discharge of a vast quantity
of peaty water from a bog on the summit of Crow Hill, about
nine miles from Keighley, and six from Colne. An area of bog
three quarters of a mile in circumference, sunk to the depth of
from four to six yards, and the flood which was thus dis
charged rolled down the valley to Keighley with a terrible
noise and violence. Stones of a vast size and weight were
carried down by the stream more than a mile, cornfields were
covered, and bridges were damaged, but happily no IL'e was lost,
A dreadful thunderstorm raged at the time when the water
descended from the moor, and the inundation was no doubt
caused by electric influence, or the agency of a waterspout, by
which the accumulation of ages was liberated in a moment, and
was precipitated into the valley below. In 1829, there was a
yet more destructive flood in Leeds. At Black Hill near Addle,
there was a large reservoir occupying an extent of from twenty

166 LEEDS.
to twenty-five acres, and formed by the natural inequality of the
ground and a large embarkment at the east end about fifteen
feet high. This reservoir was situated at the head of the stream
known nearer Leeds by the name of Sheepscar Beck. On the
evening of July 11, the quantity of water in the reservoir had
been materially increased by a heavy fall of rain during- a thunder
storm, and in the night' the embankment gaveway. The beck
was in a moment increased to a mighty torrent ; the fences, the
walls, the bridges were carried away ; the lands in the valley
were covered ; the mills by the bed of the stream were over
whelmed, and the goods they contained on their lower floors were
either ruined or carried away ; the houses and cottages exposed
to the inundation were deluged, the contents were destroyed,
and many a poor family lost all the clothing and furniture they
possessed in the world ; in the neighbourhood of Timble Bridge,
and East Street great confusion, was occasioned, and some of
the inhabitants were in imminent danger of losing their lives, so
that altogether this was by far the most calamitous flood that ever
occurred in the neighbourhood of Leeds.
Among the miscellaneous institutions in the town of Leeds
may be mentioned the Savings Bank, which was established on
January 7th, 1818, pursuant to the resolutions of a public meet
ing. The beneficial character of this institution will be estimated
by the fact, that in the course of twelve years after it commenced
operation, six thousand six hundred and sixty-two accounts had
been opened, and two hundred and seventy-four thousand two
hundred and thirteen pounds had been paid into it, in twenty-
seven thousand four hundred and fifty-nine deposits. Of this
sum, more than one hundred and seventy-four thousand pounds
had been repaid, to more than seventeen thousand four hundred
demands, leaving in the bank upwards of one hundred and thirty-
three thousand pounds belonging to three thousand two hundred
and thirty-three depositors. The institution still continues to pros
per, and it is hoped that it will long continue to receive the produce
of laborious industry, and to furnish the foundation of comfort,
respectability, and wealth for individuals and families who here de
posit the surplus earnings of honourable toil. The Leeds and York
shire Assurance Company with a capital of one million, was incorpo
rated in 1824. This institution is a public benefit, for previous
to its establishment, large sums of money instead of being circu-

LEEDS. 167
lated at home were paid away for policies of assurance to distant
companies. The Annuitant Society for widows, established
August 2nd, 1819, belongs to the department of Charities, and
the Leeds Joint Stock Banking Company established 1832, to
that of trade.
The institution of the Leeds or Haigh Park Races in 1824,
was an unfortunate event for the town, cherishing a spirit of
gambling, exercising an injurious influence upon public morals,
and interrupting the employment and consequently, diminishing
the comfort of manv who derive their daily bread from the pro
duce of their hands. The race course, which is admirably adapted
for the purpose, is situated about three miles south from the town
on the new road to Pontefract, it is provided with a grand stand
and the usual appendages of such a place, with accommodations
for horses and their riders. At first these races were held in
June, but in 1830, it was determined that for the future they
should take place in August. The most extraordinary feats ever
performed in the race ground were achieved by Captain Polhill,
of the First Dragoon Guards, then stationed in Leeds Barracks,
On November 9th, 1 826, this officer, for a wager, rode ninety-five
miles in four hours and seventeen minutes, and on the 17th of
April following, the same officer on the same ground walked
fifty miles, drove fifty miles, and rode fifty miles, in the short
space of nineteen hours and five minutes, and was afterwards drawn
by the populace to the barracks in his carriage.
We have already stated that the principles and feelings of the
inhabitants of Leeds are diametrically opposed to the theatre,
they are equally so to the turf. But few of the respectable inha
bitants have ever countenanced the scenes at Haigh Park, the
attendance at the races has long been declining, and it is hoped
that the nuisance will soon be entirely abandoned.
In the history of all large towns it is often found that compa
ratively insignificant circumstances produce for the time a vast
excitement of popular feeling. An amusing specimen of this
description was furnished in Leeds in 1821 . The salary of the
Organist of the Parish Church was only fifty pounds, but when
a vacancy occurred in the year we have mentioned, there was a
vigorous contest for its acquisition. The office is in the patronage
of the rate payers ; there were three candidates, Messrs. Green
wood, Hopkinson, and Theaker ; and for several days the whole
town was kept in a state of bustle and confusion. Numerous

168 LEEDS.
bodies of voters from the out-townships marched in procession
with music and banners precisely as in the time of a county or
borough election. No less than sixteen booths were erected for
the convenience of polling, and from the agitation which prevailed,
it might have been imagined that some affair of paramount im
portance was proceeding. More than two thousand six hundred
persons polled for Mr. Greenwood, more than one thousand two
hundred for Mr. Hopkinson, and two hundred and fifty nine for
Mr. Theaker.
Having completed our municipal history of Leeds, we shall
now very briefly refer to the villages in its immediate neighbour
hood, which are not enumerated in the list of its out-townships.
KNOWSTHORP or Knostrop, is a small village situated
about a mile and a half from the south eastern extremity of Leeds.
Its name is derived from its situation, the Thorp, or town upon the
Knoll of a hill. It is mentioned in a deed written about 1335,
and from the names of the ancient proprietors still preserved in
the lands, Knowsthorp appears to have been cultivated and inha
bited so early as the reign of John. John Stable, the last of an
ancient family who resided here, having embraced the tenets of
the Quakers, appropriated part of his orchard to the purpose of a"
burial ground for the members of that denomination. This
ground has long been disused for sepulchre, it contains, however,
some grave stones with inscriptions now illegible, two of which
upon the authority of Thoresby may be safely affirmed to have
been placed above the mortal remains of two female members of
the family of the Stables, who died in 1662 and 1692.* Knows-
* With the simplicity of one of these epitaphs, as they existed more thau
a hundred years ago, the reader will be much pleased : —
Hie ut antiquorum
mos fuit jacet Maria
Filia Johannis et
Maris Stable quoe
divino placito
ultimo die secundi
mensis secundi
a-tatis Anni expiravit
1662,
Talium est
regnum Dei.
How different to the turgid bombast of some of those epitaphs which we
<hall soon have occasion to copy !

LEEDS, Igp,
thorp is principally celebrated in the history of the district as
having been the residence of Adam Baynes, the member of parlia
ment for Leeds in the time of the Commonwealth. The remains
of the old mansion of this family, afford no data upon which to
calculate the era of its erection ; it was probably however built in
the early part. of the sixteenth century. The estate continues in
the family to the present day. Knowsthorp New Hall, the resi
dence, of Mr.. Rhodes, is a commodious and elegant mansion.
The land about the village i& principally occupied by market
gardeners. Of Osmundthorp we have already given numerous particulars,
and have stated its claim to be the Villa Regia of Bede. (See p.
32). It is briefly mentioned in Doomsday book — "Ossetorp,
four carucates."* It is only remarkable for its importance in
Saxon times. It was anciently the seat of the Osmunds, who
probably moulded, the original designation of the place to suit
their own sirname ; one of this family gave in 1376 a messuage
and a half of land to the Chaplain of St. Mary's in Leeds; from
thence the estate passed by marriage to the Skeltons, who retained
possession of it for nearly four hundred years; and by the Skeltons
it was sold to the Ibbetsons. The old hall of the Skeltons, built
in the. reign of Charles I. was demolished nineteen years since,
so that every vestige of the former antiquity of the place has
now, disappeared.
Burmantofts a hundred years ago was a rural village, entirely
separated from the town, and is mentioned by Thoresby + as
being in 1711 the pleasant seat of William Nevile, Esq. High
Sheriff of the county. Wonderful is the change; it is now
absorbed in the town, its pleasantness has completely disappeared,.
and it is associated with Quarry Hill, one of the most insalu
brious districts of the town, so called from a delf of stone which
has long, since been completely forgotten, j
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 143, + Ducat 103.
X Of the celebrated spring at Quarry-Hill, Thoresby, says, " On each side
Sheepscar Beck, which here runs under a stone bridge, called North Hall Brigg,
is a remarkable spring, the Spaw-well, which Mr. William Smithson fenced
with a stone wall and covered, and Lady- well. This Spadacrene Leodiensis,
strikes as good a purple with nut-galls as Knaresbrough Spaw, and has the like
effects, only 'tis too near and cheap to be valued as it ought. The same pow-
der of galls does not at all effect the colour of the other spring the Lady-
well." Ducat, I. 104. z

170 LEEDS.
Of Sheepscar nothing more can be said than that it derived
its name from a pool most probably on the beck, which was used
in ancient times for the washing of sheep. The beck is men
tioned by old Harrison as " a nameless water running into the
Aire on the North side of Leeds from Wettlewood" or Weetwood.*
This useful stream rises a little above Addle, passes through some
very romantic scenery at Meanwood, flows through a beautiful
valley to Woodhouse Carr, and after receiving the discoloured
wash of numerous dyehouses and manufactories, falls into the
Aire near East-street.
Buslingthorp contains a considerable population : it divides
the manor of Leeds from that of Potter-Newton, and is supposed
to have derived its name from the Ox or Cow stalls, formerly
called Booses or Buyses, with which the Ings or fields were for
merly replenished.
The names of the populous villages of Woodhouse and Wood-
house Carr, sufficiently explain their own origin. At Woodhouse
Carr there is a medicinal well, whose waters are esteemed useful
to the bowels, and were formerly much used by the people in the
neighbourhood. The village itself, though placed in a beautiful
natural situation, is rendered unpleasant and dirty by its manu
factories. Woodhouse Moor is the most healthy open space in
the township of Leeds, it is the great summer walk of the inhabi-
bitants, it affords ample space for the exercising and reviewing of
troops, and it is most devoutly to be wished that no future bill
of enclosure will ever be introduced into the legislature, to pre
vent access to this pleasant scene of recreation and enjoyment.
In the village of Woodhouse, on the left hand side of the road,
is one of the most antique looking houses in this parish. The
oldest part is one of the very few specimens which remain in this
neighbourhood of the wood and plaister style of building, however
interesting its appearance its history cannot be ascertained.
Little Woodhouse is rapidly losing its character as a beauti
ful village, although it is still one of the most pleasant and airy
situations round Leeds. Dennison Hall, so called from its pos
sessor, was formerly by far the most sumptuous residence in the
parish, and its exterior is still the most imposing; it is now
* Holingshed's Chron, i. 95.

LEEDS. 171
divided into two houses, its small park in front ^s the site of an
unfinished square, of which the hall itself forms the northern
side. Were Hanover Square, for so it is called, completed in a
style corresponding with the buildings which have already been
erected, it would be the greatest ornament of the town.
The first house at North Hall, or North Hall Wood as it
was formerly called, was built here in the reign of Charles I. by
Mr. George Banister, the first town clerk for the borough of Leeds;
while his son, about the year 1691, built that house of public
entertainment at Spring Gardens, which still retains its original
name, and is appropriated to its original purpose.
Spring Gardens and North Hall were a short time ago
completely in the country, and within twenty years, only a few
houses in Park Lane could be seen between them and Park Square.
The scene is now completely changed. Large dyehouses and
immense manufactories line the northern side of the river; streets
of cottages open from the great western road; a vast popu
lation pours forth at specific periods of the day to their avocations
of industry and toil; and although the avenue to the town by the
Wellington road is commodious, open, and airy, the other which
conducts the traveller to St. Paul's Church and Park Square, is
now one of the meanest, the most irregular, and the most unplea
sant in the whole circumference of Leeds.
Near North Hall is the celebrated spring called St. Peter's
Well ; the waters are so intensely cold that they have long been
considered very efficacious in rheumatic disorders. The Bene
Ings near the Waterloo Bridge, part of which is occupied by the
large manufactory of Messrs. Gott, are traditionally supposed to
have derived their name from their ancient appropriation to reli
gious purposes ; Bene importing, prayers ; though as Dr.
Whitaker sarcastically remarks, " etymologists are extremely
apt to overlook what is obvious, and it might be recollected that
Beans are quite as likely to be cultivated, as prayers to be per
formed in Ings."* The meadow between the Bene Ings and
Leeds, called the Monk Pits, received its name from its monastic
proprietors. Near the line of the new road to the iron bridge
across the Aire at the Monk Pits, is the Eye-bright well, once
supposed to afford a sovereign remedy for soreness of the eyes ;
* Ducat. 93, note.

172 LEEDS.

*>

the row of houses once called Eye-bright place, and looking over
pleasant fields to the river, has now lost all its attractions, and
forms part of Wellington Street.
POPULATION OF LEEDS.
In 1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
East Division,  5,124 5,580 7,701 12,413
Middle and Kirkgate Division,  3.803 4,212 4,769 4,927
Mill Hill Division,  2,676 2,636 3,031 3,031
Upper and Lower North East Division,? 8,547 j^* ^| ]^
North West Division, Lower and Upper X 4,059 5,910 -5 J®°i %&"
South Division,  2,907 3,791 5,501 6,549
Upper Division,  3,554 3,243 3,208 3,262
Total in 1831, 71,602.

173

CHAPTER III.
THE PARISH OF LEEDS, CALVERLEY, AND GUISELEY.

SECTION I.— THE PARISH OF LEEDS.
HUNSLET.
Hunslet is supposed to have derived its name from the dogs
which in ancient times were kept here, either to defend the flocks
of the farmers from the ravages of wild beasts, or for the purposes
of'the chase.* It is thus mentioned in Doomsday. " In Hunslet
six carucates of land to be taxed, where there may be three
ploughs. The soke is in Bestone. There are eight villanes
there having three ploughs, and six acres of meadow. Wood
pasture five quarentens long, and four broad."t Since Hunslet is
enumerated in Doomsday Book among the possessions of Ilbert
de Lacy, the statement of Thoresby, which has been adopted by
most of the topographers who have alluded to the village, that it
was given by the Conqueror to Roger de Montgomery must be
altogether unfounded.^ After the Lacies Earls of Lincoln became
extinct, Hunslet was held by different proprietors, and part of it
was granted to religious houses until the reign of Henry IV.
when Richard Gascoigne, brother to the celebrated judge, pur
chased a considerable estate in the township. Sir Thomas Nevile
of Liversedge, in the reign of Edward IV. married the heiress of
the Gascoignes, and thus obtained possession of the Hunslet
estate. In this family the lordship continued until the 12th year
of Elizabeth, when Sir John Nevile was accused of participating
» Hunde, a dog, and Slet, a house,
f Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 144.
X It is a curious fact that at the time of the conquest there were three villa
ges in Shropshire called Hulebec, Hundeslet, and Ferneley. An extraordinary
coincidence which caused the error of Thoresby.

174 HUNSLET.
in the rebellion of his relative the Earl of Westmoreland, his
estate was consequently confiscated, and was given by the Queen
to Sir Edward Carey. It was settled upon his second son Sir
Philip Carey, who in conjunction with his son sold all the lands,
mills, wastes, &c. to the inhabitants. The ancient and truly
respectable family of the Fentons were at that time residents in
Hunslet, and had been settled in the neighbourhood for some cen
turies, and they with the Baynes's and Cowpers were the principal
parties in the purchase of the manor.
Of the Neviles Lords of Hunslet, a curious anecdote has been
preserved. " vii. Aug. 1551, v. Edw. VI. the sweating sicknesse
was so vehement in Liversage, that Sir John Nevile was departed
from Liversage Hall to his house at Hunslet near Leedes for fear
thereof, and it was so contagious that it quickly despatched such
as were infected ; for one William Rayner died the same day that
he had been abroad with his hawke, &c."
Hunslet Hall was formerly a stately building surrounded with
a considerable park, and presenting all the indications of aristo-
cratical consequence and affluence. When Sir Philip Carey,
however, broke up his estate at this place, the hall was abandoned
to dilapidation and decay. Upwards of a hundred and twenty
years ago, it again received considerable attention and extensive
repairs, and was for some time the residence of Mr. Henry Sykes,
an opulent and influential individual. Thoresby calls it a pleasant
place. But it was soon again abandoned, and the residence of the
Gascoignes and Neviles was rapidly rendered undistinguishable
amidst a mass of meaner habitations.
The mill at Hunslet is frequently mentioned in the ancient
records of the district, and appears to have existed as early as the
thirteenth century. William Paganel, founder of the priory of
Drax, gave to the prior of that house and his successors for ever,
thirty sheaves of corn (probably annually) from his mill at Hun
slet. The same mill is again mentioned as the property of the
family of Altaripa (Dawtrey) who were also benefactors to the
same religious house. It was afterwards the property of the
Vavasours, and was given by them to the abbot and convent of
Salley. Although the dispersion of the estates of Sir John Nevile,
into small parcels, was highly favourable both to the extension
of the woollen manufacture and the increase of population at
Hunslet, yet the number of inhabitants in the time of the com-

HUNSLET. 175
monwealth, was not so great as might be supposed. By the
commission for ecclesiastical affairs in the north, it was there
arranged that Hunslet was to constitute a district parish, (the
chapel had been erected and endowed 1636,) and when its
population was enumerated, it was found to consist of two hundred
families, that is just half as many as Holbeck, at the same period.
This township now contains as many inhabitants as many of the
cities and cathedral towns of the kingdom, and it is superior to
them in wealth and intrinsic importance. Besides the woollen
manufacture, Hunslet contains extensive glass works, large
chemical factories, considerable potteries, and establishments for
wire working.
No place in the whole district has experienced such a total
change in external appearance. " Under the Gascoignes and
Neviles, the features of Hunslet were a great manor house and
park, a slender and obsequious population, a feeble and unskilful
husbandry, but quiet, cleanliness, and repose." * All these features
have long since disappeared. Hunslet Lane still contains a num
ber of good houses connected generally with extensive mercantile
establishments, but the whole village, or rather suburb of Leeds,
is irregularly, and frequently meanly built, consisting of narrow
and dirty lanes, branching out from the great thoroughfare to
Wakefield, and from the principal street passing by the chapel.
The general aspect of the place is strangely uncouth, and perhaps
a more dismal scene cannot be presented than the tract of mud
and marsh called Hunslet Moor, on a rainy day. The inhabitants
have, however, distinguished themselves by their public spirit,
and an infinitely larger portion of intelligence and knowledge is
to be found among them, and is in incessant and active exercise,
than can be found among an equal number of individuals taken
from any agricultural district in the kingdom.
The new iron bridge, or Union Bridge, over the river Aire,
was commenced in 1829, when the first stone was laid by Mr.
John Danby. As a communication between Hunslet and the
great York Road, it is likely to be a great public convenience.
The Hunslet rail road will be described in its proper place.
Hunslet Woodhouse, on an easy acclivity between Hunslet
and Middleton, was formerly inhabited almost exclusively by the
numerous family of the Fentons. It now belongs to the great
* Leeds and Elmete, 93.

176 HUNSLET.
coal mining tract, and exhibits the usual appearances and appen
dages of that remarkable region.
The most interesting relic of antiquity ever found in this
vicinity was discovered in 1823. In excavating a new road in
this township, the workmen turned up a stone coffin, containing
some thigh, leg, and arm bones, under a covering of plaister,
which, when removed, exhibited the cast of a human body, with
the impression of the linen which had enveloped it. The face
appeared to have been covered with a semicircular glass,, which was
partially decomposed; the skull had perished, but the teeth
remained in excellent preservation. . A considerable number of glass.
beads were found in the coffin, of various colours and sizes ; but,
though the coffin and its contents, were carefully washed, no coin
or inscription was found to fix the date of the interment. Mr.
Blenkinsop took charge of the coffin, which appeared to be of the
Bramley Fall stone, and was covered with a lid five inches thick.
POPULATION OF HUNSLET.
In 1801 1811 1821 1831
5799 6393 7701 12004

HOLBECK.

This village derived its name from its low situation, and the
beck which flows through its centre,* and which says Harrison,
" has two arms, of which the one cometh from Pudsey Chapel, the
other from Adwalton, their confluence being made above Ferneslie
Hall."t This beck or stream is the channel by which several
of the vallies to the west and southwest discharge their waters
into the river Aire. The main stream rises above Tong, and
after a course of four miles, receives Pudsey beck, which comes
from Bradford Moor ; a mile further down, a little above Farnley,
it receives another streamlet from Drighlington, and a mile nearer
to Leeds, Beeston Beck, it then flows through the village in a
deep channel, and conveys its discoloured waters to the Aire.
Holbeck is not mentioned in Doomsday Book, but was pro
bably included in that survey with Woodhouse, under the general
designation of Leeds. Very soon however after the compilation
of Doomsday Book, when Ralph Paganel, A. D. 1089, gave the
advowson of the church of Leeds to the priory of the Holy
Trinity at York, the confirmation of the grant by pope Alexander,
mentions both Holbeck and its chapel. J At the dissolution of the
monasteries, it appears from the return to which we have so fre
quently alluded, that Holbeck paid only fifteen shillings in
tithes. It was a place of considerable comparative importance
and population at the time of the commonwealth, when it was
formed into a district parish, and stated to contain four hundred
families. The manor was anciently part of the lands and posses
sions of the priory of St. Trinity in York, it afterwards ^belonged
to the Darcies, it was then the inheritance of the Ingrams, being
purchased of king James I. by Sir Arthur Ingram, and it is now
the property of the dowager marchioness of Hertford, as the
representative and heiress of that ancient family. Ingram Hall,
formerly the seat of the ancent possessors of the manor of
* Saxon Hoi, a low place, and Beck.
f Harrison's Des. of Britain, ap. Hollingshead, I, 95.
X Monastic. Anglic, 1. 564.
2a

1^8 HOLBECK.
Holbeck, still remains. A few old stone houses of the age of
the first Stuarts attest the antiquity of the place, although none
of them merit particular description.
Holbeck was the seat of two ancient and highly respectable
families — the Andertons, the name of whose estate is still pre
served in Anderton's Rents — and the Neviles of whom some
account must be given, because of the prominent part they have
acted both in the county of York, and the vicinity of Leeds.
Descended from Waltheof, Earl of Northumberland, prior to the
Conquest, the Neviles have been connected by marriage with
some of the most ancient and respectable families in Yorkshire.
Sir John de Nevile was twice high Sheriff of the county in
the reign of Henry VII. Another Sir John Nevile sustained
the same dignified office in the reign of Henry VIII. Sir
Robert Nevile was elevated to the same dignity in the thirty-
second year of the same reign, and a third Sir John Nevile,
in the third year of the reign of Elizabeth. Gervause Nevile
of Beeston, was quarter master general to the duke of New
castle, 1643, and consequently was a distinguished partaker
in the principal transactions of the civil war in Yorkshire.
William Nevile, of Holbeck, was High Sheriff for the county
in 1710. Cavendish Nevile, the brother of William, was the
last of the male line of this family. The name however was
revived in the person of John Pate Lister, afterwards Nevile,
the son of the female representative of the Neviles. In his
favour, restrictions were introduced into the act passed in 1790,
for the effectual supply 0I" ^e town of Leeds with water. Two
of his sons, officers in the third regiment of guards, died in the
same year (1799) of their wounds received in the campaign in
Holland ; another of his sons, a lieutenant in the second regiment
of foot, was kifled on board Lord Howe's ship in the celebrated
naval engagement of June 1, 1794; his eighth son, a lieutenant
in the navy, was slain at Martinique, 1804; and his fourth son,
a lieutenant in the guards, died at Badsworth, 1802. Thus five
sons died in the service of their sovereign during the most
dangerous and devastating war which ever was waged upon the
surface of the globe — an instance of patriotic devotion to the
cause of their country in one family, certainly not to be paralleled
in this district, and seldom equalled in the history of the empire.
Wonderfully changed is the village of Holbeck within the
last seventy, fifty, or even thirty years. It was formerly a plea-

HOLBECK. 179
sant village, possessed of no claims perhaps to rural seclusion,
yet still surrounded with verdant fields and thriving poplar plan
tations, and enjoying an atmosphere uncontaminated and salu
brious. Only one humau habitation interrupted the continuity
of the prospect between the village properly so called, and Leeds.
But now the scene is completely reversed. Holbeck is one of
the most crowded, one of the most filthy, one of the most
unpleasant, and one of the most unhealthy villages in the county
of York. Numerous lanes and streets swarming with a vast
population now unite it to Leeds, the trees have been cut down,
the meadows have disappeared, and the air is loaded with the
black vapours which issue from its immense manufactories. " The
smoke of it," said Dr. Whitaker, " ascendeth to heaven.''
Holbeck is remarkable for its springs of sanative waters,
which slightly impregnated with sulphur, are considered very
salutary both as a beverage and for culinary purposes, and a
considerable quantity of which is sold every day to the inhabi
tants of Leeds by a number of men who ply the streets with
water carts for the purpose. The establishment here for warm
and cold baths is commodiously arranged, well conducted, and
extensively beneficial. There is some reason to believe that the
medicinal well at this place was one of the many in this country
anciently dedicated to St. Helena, and that a chapel was formerly
attached to it.* POPULATION OF HOLBECK.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
4196 5124 7151 11210
* This supposition is confirmed by the statement of Thoresby, who says,
" Here was also another ancient fabric called St. Helens, of which some remains
were standing in the memory of our fathers, but now is only known by the
name of St Helen's bridge, which leads to the old site of it." Ducat. 184.

180

BEESTON.

The village of Beeston was no doubt one of the most delight
ful in the vicinity of Leeds, and one of the most desirable as a
permanent residence, until the sinking of the numerous coal mines
in its vicinity in a great measure destroyed its pleasantness, and
effected a disagreeable change in the character of its inhabitants.
It is mentioned in the following manner in the Doomsday Book.
" In Bestone, Turstan and Morfar had six carucates of land to
be taxed, where there may be four ploughs. Ilbert now has it,
and it is waste. Value in King Edward's time, forty shillings.
Wood pasture, half a mile long, and half broad."* From this
entry it appears that the manor of Beeston, like almost every
other in its vicinity, was given after the Conquest to Ilbert de
Lacy, and that it had been reduced to a state of unmitigated
devastation by the atrocious barbarities of the inhuman Conqueror.
Beeston was the seat of a very ancient, respectable, and munifi
cent family — the Beestons of Beeston. One of this family Adam
de Beeston was one of the witnesses to that charter which was
A.D. 1207. granted by Maurice Paganel to the Burgesses of Leeds, which
we have already analysed in its proper place. Long after this we
Deed 1497. find Ralph Beeston holding the manor for the third part of a
knight's fee, and presenting three acres of land in the place to
the monks of Kirkstall Abbey. Adam Beeston had already be
stowed upon the same ecclesiastics, four acres of meadow called
Palizings. This family resided in an ancient hall which was in
existence in the beginning of the last century, but the last relic
of which, a Gothic arched gateway leading from the street into
the village, was demolished about twenty-five years since. In
the reign of James I. the last of this family known in this
vicinity, commonly called Captain Beeston, sold the manor to
Sir John Wood, a justice of the peace and treasurer for invalided
soldiers in the West Riding of Yorkshire. From his family, it
came into the possession of Mr. Nathaniel Bland, who resided at
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 1 1-1.

BEESTON. 181
the hall about 1712. From him it was purchased by Thomas
Kitchingman, Esq. whose son Thomas devised it to his four sisters.
It is conjectured from the coucher book of Nostel Priory,
that there was formerly a hospital at Beeston, which is supposed
to have stood at the foot of the hill, and on the south side of the
brook which divides Beeston and Churwell. However well
founded or otherwise this conjecture may be, it is certain that
not a single trace of any such building now remains. During the
time of the commonwealth, when a commission was granted for the
purpose of surveying and dividing the great parishes in the north
of England, Beeston was to have been constituted a new parish,
and was stated to have had glebe land worth eighteen pounds per
annum besides an augmentation, and to have had one hundred
and fifty]communicants.
Two circumstances formerly gave to Beeston some degree of
celebrity. About the reign of Elizabeth, it was famous for the
manufacture of bone lace, an article which continued in request
until it was superseded by the superior manufactures of the con
tinent. Towards the close of the seventeenth, and the commence
ment of the eighteenth century, it obtained a deserved reputation
for its straw hats. The origin of this manufacture deserves men
tion to the honour of the inventor. In the reign of Charles I.
a Mrs. Isabel Denton of Beeston was cursed with a prodigal
husband, and saw a numerous family in danger of penury and
starvation. This meritorious and ingenious woman to sup
port her children by the produce of her honourable industry,
invented straw hats and bonnets, for which she found a ready
and profitable sale, and thus maintained her family in comfort
and respectability until her death. Such was the demand for
these articles of Beeston manufacture, that a widow in Leeds and
her partner sold to the annual value of seven thousand pounds.
Thoresby says upon this subject, " As Bone Lace, formerly the
chief of the ornaments of the English nation, gave way to those
from Flanders and Venice, so have straw hats to bonnets and
shades made of wood-plat, imported from beyond sea though
made up here. The chief art in the former was in making the
hat bands, for which this town was and is so noted, that even
those which were made in distant places were and are to this day
supplied with them from Beeston,"
The coal mines in the neighbourhood of Beeston have long been
worked, and have yielded a profitable supply of that invaluable

182 BEESTON.
mineral to the present day. A tragical event took place in the
reign of Charles II. to which there are happily but few parallels
in English history. During the time of the Protectorate, Mr.
Leonard Scurr had discharged the ministerial functions in Rees-
ton chapel with considerable ability, but without corresponding
moral character. When Charles II. returned to his kingdom,
Mr. Scurr abandoned the ministry and commenced the manage
ment of a coal mine for which he seems to have been well qualified,
and which he conducted with considerable success. Preparatory
to a journey to London on business, he had collected a large sum
of money, and the fact became generally known in the neighbour
hood. On the night antecedent to his departure from home
(January 19, 1679) about eleven o'clock, two unhappy men whose
names were Holroyd and Littlewood, accompanied by their
accomplices, broke into the house with the intention of seizing
the money and obviating detection by the murder of the family,
then consisting of Mr. Scurr, his aged mother, and a servant girl.
The outcry of the mother whom they first seized, woke Mr. Scurr
then in bed, he immediately descended, from his room armed
with a rapier, and commenced a desperate contest with equal
resolution and energy. He mortally wounded two of the robbers,
and had not one of his hands been cut off with an axe, there is
but little doubt that he would have mastered them all. Such
was his indomitable valour, however, that he fought until his
weapon became useless, and then he attempted to escape by a trap
door. But the robbers had previously fastened it, and Mr. Scurr
was at length murdered. His mother shared his fate, but the
servant girl who implored mercy and promised secrecy would
have been spared, had it not been for a wretched woman who was
with the murderers, at whose instigation she was beheaded at the
door. The ruffians then having taken the money and other valu
ables, set fire to the house in the hope of exciting the belief that
it had been casually consumed with its inhabitants. But the
murder was discovered by the facts that the head of the servant
was found separated from her body, and the hand of Scurr at a
distance from his mutilated body. Vengeance swiftly pursued
the perpetrators of this horrid deed. Holroyd and a woman with
whom he lived in shame repaired to Ireland, there they met with
a female whose name was Phoebe, who had formerly beeu servant
with Mr. Scurr, and to whom they had the folly to converse
about the murder. This person identified a gown and a scarlet

BEESTON. 183
petticoat, which Holroyd's companion then wore, as having been
the property of Mrs. Scurr ; she suspected the true state of the
case, and applied to a magistrate ; the murderers were appre
hended and their gross prevarications were so condusive of their
guilt, that they were sent over to York to take their trial. Lit-
tlewood was also taken into custody, and he and Holroyd were
arraigned at the Lammas assizes at York in 1682. Littlewood
was respited in the hope of making further confession, and the
woman probably not having been actually engaged in the murder
was never brought to trial. It was very properly determined to
make a public example of Holroyd in the immediate neighbour
hood of the place where the atrocious crime was committed, and
he was accordingly executed on Holbeck Moor, in the presence of
thirty thousand spectators. His body was hung in chains on the
same spot. On his way through Leeds, the vicar, Mr. Milner,
had some conversation with him, but he continued hardened and
impenitent to the last.
An account of the chapel of Beeston will be found in the
next book.
Of Cad Beeston, or Woody Beeston, anciently the seat of the
Latimers, and in more recent times of the Milners of Beeston
Park, Pit Hill,* and other Hamlets in this township, no impor
tant particulars can be given.
POPULATION OF BEESTON.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
1427 1538 1670 2128
* The following ludicrous description of Pit Hill is extracted from the
Ducatus : " Pit Hill of which there is nothing memorable but only cottages
for some of the subterranean crew, except what is to be mentioned in the
appendix, that the wife of one of them brought forth four children at one
birth."

184

ARMLEY.

Armley, or the field of Orm or Arm, indubitably a Danish
chieftain, is thus mentioned in Doomsday Book : " In Ristone
and Ermelai, Morfar and Archil had six carucates of land to be
taxed, where there may be three ploughs. Ligulf now has it of
Ilbert, and there are eight villanes there with three ploughs.
Meadow six acres. Wood pasture half a mile long and four qua
rentens * broad. Value in King Edwards time twenty shillings
now ten shillings."f Ristone, which is connected with Ermelai or
Armley in this statement was most probably the place now called
Armley Rig, Rigton or Rigston, the town on the Rig or Ridge of
the hill. It will be seen that Armley, like Headingley, had been
passed over by the general devastators of this part of the country
in the reign of the Conqueror, but the reason of its exemption
from the general calamity it is impossible even to conjecture. In
the reign of Edward I. the Lacies Earls of Lincoln held Armley
of the king in capite. In the same reign the family of the Ever-
inghams had an estate here, and in Henry Vth's time a family
of the Musgraves, whose name still continues in Bramley and
Kirkstall. The principal family in Armley, however, for many
centuries was that of the Hoptons, who were possessors of the
manor, and whose residence was at Armley Hall, which says
Thoresby " was sure a spacious place before the six and twenty
rooms (which were taken down in the memory of some persons
yet living) were demolished at one time to reduce it to a farmer's
house." The Hoptons were a family of high reputation as well as
of extensive possessions, and intermarried with some of the most
eminent families in the West Riding of Yorkshire. The daugh
ter and heiress of Sir Ingram Hopton married Sir Miles Stapleton
of Wighill, and his daughter and heiress marrying Sir Thomas
Manleverer, he became possessed in her right of the manor of
Armley. Sir Thomas, however, sold it to Margaret relict of Sir
* A quarenten was a quantity of ground signifying 40 perches.
f Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 143.

ARMLEY. 185
William Ingleby of Ripley, in whose family it remained until
1781, when the trustees of Sir John Ingleby, Bart, deceased, sold
it to Mr. Thomas Woolrich, merchant, of Leeds. The manorial
rights are now possessed by Benjamin Gott, Esq. The munifi
cence of this gentleman to the inhabitants of Armley, which ranks
him among the most liberal benefactors in the district, will be
described in our history of charities.
More than a hundred years ago, Armley was noted for its
corn and fulling mills. Some of these mills must have been in
existence full two centuries since, because they were the property
of Samuel Casson, Esq. second mayor of Leeds, under the charter
of Charles I. The village and its neighbourhood contain some
important manufacturing establishments at this day. Armley
Mills belonging to Messrs. Gott demand particular observation
not only on account of their magnitude, but on account of their
picturesque situation, beneath an almost precipitous hill, on whose
declivity the Leeds and Liverpool Canal has been carrried with
stupendous labour, and covered on the south side by impending
woods. Even Dr. Whitaker in contemplating this place over
looked his prejudices against manufactories. He says, "it is not
uupleasing to observe that this vast excavation (the canal) which
for several years presented to the eye the appearance of a long
extended quarry through the township of Armley, by being
judiciously planted as soon as its decompounding materials became
capable of vegetation, is now fringed with thriving trees of various
kinds, and has nearly lost every appearance of its original
deformity." Armley House is the representative of a very ancient building
every trace of which has long since disappeared, although centuries
ago it originated the appellation of the place where it stood.* The
late house was built by Thomas Woolrich, Esq. and was an elegant
though not an extensive edifice. The house built by Benjamin
Gott, Esq. is one of the best in the district, and forms one of the
most conspicuous and commanding objects in the viciuity. The
park is small but beautifully planted, the wood on the north side
of the house slopes rapidly down to the canal, the rest of the
grounds are intersectedj with delightfully shaded walks, the
new approach to the house by an iron bridge built over the Aire
permits a full view of the fine situation and environs of the man
sion, and the whole is equally creditable to the skill of the
architect and the taste and munificence of the proprietor.
* Rig Cote — the house on the ridge. 2 E

186 ARMLEY.
We have already spoken of the remains of the Danish fortifi
cation on Giant's Hill at Armley.* Its ecclesiastical history will
be found in the following book.
Wither, the Wyther, or Withergrange, is a pleasant hamlet
on the borders of the townships of Armley and Bramley. It was
anciently the seat of several gentlemen's families, and contains a
very large mansion, built in connection with an old house in the
middle of the last century, now the residence of B. Holroyd, Esq.
At the back of this house is a ravine formed by the bed of a small
torrent overhung with gigantic trees, which affords one of the
most delightful, romantic, and secluded scenes in this district.-!
POPULATION OF ARMLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
2695 2941 4273 5159
* See p. 30.
f Concerning the Danish chieftain who has given his name to Armley,
we make the following extract from the Ducatus. "That there was a person of
eminency in this part of the country among the Danes called Arm or Orm
is evident from several places that do yet bear his name as Armthorp, Arinin,
&c. Thus Arm is synonymous with Orm, an ancient family, both among the
Danes and Northern English amongst whom was one Orm, whose Dano-Saxon
manuscript is yet extant and called from him Ormulum. There was also
another of the name a noted person in these parts of Yorkshire in Henry I.'s
time and I have also seen a release dated Anno 1322, from John son of William
Orm concerning an estate in this parish. In this neighbourhood are other
monuments of the Danish times as particularly Tingley or more truly Ting-
law or Low, which imports a Danish court of judicature, in the language of
that age, called Tinge, as a most excellent guide instructs us." Ducat 105.

187

WORTLEY.

The village of Wortley is included in the chapelry of Armley.
The name is supposed to have been derived from its herbage. It
is mentioned in a MS return in the Augmentation office, in the
30th Henry VIII. as paying one pound thirteen shillings and
fourpence as its quota of tythes. In this document the name is
is spelt Wyrteley. In the Commonwealth, when the commission
to which we have before alluded was granted for surveying and
subdividing the great parishes in the north of England, Farnely,
Armley, Bramley, and Wortley, were to have formed a distinct
parish. The arrangements contemplated by the commissioners
were however never carried into permanent effect, and Wortley
remained without an episcopal chapel until 1813, when the pre
sent edifice, of which further particulars will shortly be given,
was consecrated by the Archbishop of York. This village has
been distinguished by a vein of fine clay of which Tobacco pipes
were manufactured more than a century ago, and which is still
in demand by the potteries in the neighbourhood for the coarser
kinds of earthenware. The ancient family of the Farrars of
Ewood, near Halifax were formerly possessors of the manor, in
1766, it was sold by James Farrar, Esq. to John Smyth, Esq. of
Holbeck, and it is now the property of his son John Smyth, Esq.
of Bramham. The inhabitants are principally clothiers.
POPULATION OF WORTH EY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
1995 2336 3179 5944

188

FARNELEY.

Fabneley, like Wortley, obtained its name from its peculiar
vegetation, feme growing in great abundance over its wastes
before it was brought into a state of cultivation. In the return
in the Augmentation Office just mentioned, two Farneleys are
mentioned, but the cause of the distinction cannot be ascertained,
and a similar entry cannot be discovered in any other document.
This place is not recorded in Doomsday Book, but it must at a
very early period have been distinguished by the residence of an
eminent family, since Juliana de Lungvilliers, lady of Farneley,
was one of the benefactors of Kirkstall Abbey soon after its foun
dation. It is again mentioned in the reign of Edward I., and
from that period the series of the possessors of the manor has been
preserved with tolerable accuracy. It would be of little use to
the reader to detail the manner in which this lordship passed
from the Neviles to the Harringtons, from the Harringtons to the
Langtons, and from the Langtons to the Danbys. Suffice it to
observe, that the last family became seized of the manor about the
commencement of the sixteenth century, that it furnished the first
mayor of Leeds after the charter of Charles II. was granted, and
that Farneley continued to be the place of its residence until the
middle of the last century. The manor was sold by William
Danby, Esq. of Swinton, near Masbam, to Mr. James Armitage,
a merchant of Leeds, with whose descendants it yet remains.
Farneley Hall was built in the reign of Elizabeth by Sir
Thomas Danby, and was a " stately fabric, of its architecture and
age. Upon the front was this inscription : " Builded in the year
of our Lord 1586, and in the reign of the Queen 28, by Sir Tho
mas Danby, Knight." It was pulled down in 1756, the mate
rials were sold, and a very inferior mansion was erected on its
site. It is not known when the ancient park was destroyed.
Farneley may be regarded as the last place in the parish of Leeds
which continued to be the abode of aristocracy, and Dr. Whitaker
says, " It is owing unquestionably to the aristocratical genius of

FARNELEY. 189
the place, that in the neighbourhood of a population rapidly
increasing, where every rood of land when leased was sure of a
tenant, little less than four hundred acres of native wood, such as
in Doomsday is described as Silva Pascua, should have been per
mitted to remain to the present day.'' Of Farneley Wood Plot
we have already given the history.
Farneley is delightfully situated on the summit of a consider
able elevation, gradually sloping towards the east, and looking
down into a beautiful valley on the north. The spirit of specula
tion a few years ago induced the introduction of some new roads
into this valley in the direction of Wortley and Pudsey, only one
of these roads, viz. that from the Bramley road in the valley to
Farneley, has yet been finished, and the immense mound upon
which it is formed is a striking monument of human industry. A
considerable quantity of inferior -coal is procured in this village,
and the stone is well adapted for the common buildings in the
vicinity. POPULATION OF FARNELEY.

1801.

1811. 1821.

1831.

943

1164 1332
* Loid. and Elm. 106.

1591

190

HEADINGLEY.

The name of this pleasant and rural village is of Danish
derivation. The first syllable refers to a person, perhaps Hedde
or Hcedda, stated to have been the first Danish king who divided
A.D. 876. this part of England among his followers, and who after swaying
his sceptre over his new dominions thirty-five years, was killed in
A.D. 911. the reign of Edward the Elder. The second syllable is a patro
nymic added by the son to his father's name according to the
custom of the people and the age ; and the third it is well known
is significant of field. The field of the son of Hedde or Hcedda,
will therefore be the meaning of the name.
The principal object' in the village of Headingley is the vener
able oak which has defied the storms of a thousand winters, and
which for hundreds of years has presented to the observer a decay
ing memorial of ages long since passed away. This remarkable
tree has been conjectured by some, and the supposition is war
ranted by its evidently extreme antiquity, to have witnessed the
horrible religious rites of the ancient Britons, and in fact to have
formed a part of a Druidical grove. Universal tradition declares
this to have been the tree under which, in Saxon times, the shire
meetings were held, and from which the name of Skyrack, (shire
oak) has been imposed upon the wapentake. Of course these
traditions afford no positive demonstration, but in spite of scepti
cism they render the supposition extremely probable, and induce
the conclusion that it must be founded on fact.
Headingley is noticed in Doomsday Book in the following
terms: "In Hedingleia seven carucates of land to be taxed.
Land to three ploughs and a half. Two thanes held it for two
manors. There are there two villanes with one plough. It has
been valued at forty shillings, now four pounds."* From this
entry it appears that Headingley in the time of the Conqueror,
presented a rare example of prosperity amidst the surrounding
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 127.

HEADINGLEY. 191
horrors of devastation and wretchedness, and that in fact its value
had been doubled by the improvements of its thanes, and the dili
gence of its husbandmen. This is the more extraordinary, since
as we shall see in the case of Chapel AUerton, the general desola
tion was evident in the east, so in the case of Bramley it extended
to the west.
Soon after this record Headingley seems to have been granted
by the Lacies, as chief Lords, to a family with the surname of
Paytefen or Poitevin, who held it in part until' the reign of
Edward II. As may be supposed, Headingley with Chapeltown
became gradually included in the vast possessions of Kirkstall
Abbey. Of that Abbey, which stands in this township, and of its
other ecclesiastical edifices, descriptive and historical accounts
will be given in the next book. The site and demesnes of Kirk
stall Abbey after the dissolution were granted to the celebrated
archbishop Cranmer, and by him were settled on his younger son.
In the reign of James I. they were purchased by Sir John Savile
of Howley, from whose family they passed by marriage to the
Brudenels Earls of Cardigan, Nearly seventy years ago, a part
of these estates were granted on a long lease to the Rev. John
Moore, minister of Headingley, through whose daughter they
passed to the late Sir James Graham, and are now possessed by
Sir Sandford Graham, Bart.
In no village in the parish are the effects of the prosperity and
opulence of Leeds more visible than in Headingley, Chapeltown
only excepted. Numerous mansions and elegant villas have been
built by those whose commercial enterprise or manufacturing
industry have elevated their families to opulence. New Grange*
built about eighty-one years ago by Walter Wade, Esq. and now A. D. 1752.
the residence of Thomas Benyon, Esq. placed in a situation which
commands a vast and variegated prospect, surrounded with an
extensive park and sheltered with luxuriant woods, is one of the
most distinguished mansions, and one of the most prominent
objects in the district. And it is impossible not to contemplate
with pleasure the results of successful application to the pursuits
of trade in the cheerful, the comfortable, and elegant dwellings,
* The old house was built by Beuj. Wade, Esq. in 1626, and had this
inscription upon the front: " Except the Lord build the house, thy labour is
vain that keeps it; it is the Lord that keeps thee going out and in. B. W.
1626." The family of the Wades were so distinguished by their loyalty, that
they sold land of £500 a year for the service of Charles I.

192 HEADINGLEY.
adorned with pleasure grounds and plantations, with which this
vicinity abounds.
A considerable part of Headingley Moor, formerly very exten
sive, was inclosed about sixty-seven years since, and a good house
was erected for the officiating clergyman of the parish.
Of Burley, which with Headingley forms one township,
nothing more can be said than that it derives its name from its
situation on a hill, and that like Headingley it contains many
beautiful villas and pleasant residences.
The village of Kirkstall has deplorably declined from its for
mer striking beauty and rural seclusion. Its population has now
become entirely manufacturing, and has immensely increased
during the last fifteen years, and its atmosphere is loaded with the
smoke and effluvium proceeding from its numerous mills. Very
different were the " Mills for grinding corn and the fulling mill,"
which have existed here from time immemorial, and the vast
manufactories which furnish employment to the numerous inha
bitants of the place. The Abbey Mills here, belonging to
Willans and Son, constitutes an immense and a well conducted
establishment for the manufacture of cloth. On the eighth of
December, 1827, they were nearly destroyed by a tremendous
fire, but they have since been rebuilt, and form in every point of
view the most important object in modern Kirkstall. Without
interfering with our account of the Abbey, we may observe that
the new road which has lately been made from liiis place to
Yeadon, though it has materially subserved the convenience and
added to the comfort of the neighbourhood, has completely ruined
the beauty of the grounds about the abbey. There is every
reason to believe that in the process of time, Kirkstall will become
the most populous and important village in the parish of Leeds,
It contains one house which pre-eminently deserves observation,
and which was evidently the great gateway into the grounds of
the abbey from the north ; the principal apartment in this house,
which occupies part of what was formerly the porch, has a
very antique appearance ; and the whole building is preserved in
admirable consistency by its present occupier. The new church
at Kirkstall is one of the most beautiful buildings and one of the
most pleasing objects in the district."*
* Kirkstall, like other places in its vicinity, has furnished examples of
modern credulity disgraceful to the age. In 1806 a fellow of the name of
George Hey, called the Kirkstall prognosticator, solemnly advertised that he

HEADINGLEY. 193
About a mile from the village to the west, amidst luxuriant
woods, and in perhaps the most beautiful part of the valley of the
Aire, is Kirkstall forge, emitting its volumes of smoke by day,
and its pillars of flame by night, arousing the echoes of the
neighbourhood by the incessant din of its hammers, and present
ing an object of blackness and deformity, notwithstanding its
utility, strangely incongruous with the lovely scenery by which
it is surrounded. This forge is of considerable antiquity. Even
in Thoresby's time, it was so extensive that he declares, " it
might serve Vulcan himself and his Cyclops to work in." The
same writer also tells us that in this place there was a mill
erected, "for slitting iron into small bars or rods by which means
there is a considerable manufacture of nails in these parts." " The
manufactures of this forge continue to obtain an extensive demand,
and to be held in the highest request under the superintendence
of its very estimable and respectable present occupiers.
POPULATION OF HEADINGLEY WITH BURLEY
AND KIRKSTALL.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
1313 1670 2154 3849
was commissioned to announce that on Wednesday the world was to be burnt
up. He produced vast alarm among the fools in the neighbourhood by his
prophecy.

2 c

194

BRAMLEY.

The name of Bramley is no doubt derived from its first pos
sessor, most probably in Saxon times, and is literally the field of
Bram. It is thus mentioned in Doomsday Book : "In Brameleia,
Archil had, four carucates of land to be taxed, and there may be
two ploughs there. Ilbert now has it and it is waste. Wood
pasture half a mile long and half broad. Value in King Edward's
time forty shillings." It will be seen by this description that the
township of Bramley had been cursed with the presence of the
Norman destroyers, and that fire and sword had reduced it to
desolation. It seems to have been granted by the Lacies to the
Abbey of Kirkstall, and to have remained in the possession of that
monastic house to the dissolution. In the reign of Edward VI.
when Bramley with other domains of the Abbey were granted to
archbishop Cranmer, the land in this township was in a state of
high cultivation. This is evident from the fact that several of its
fields are expressly mentioned in the royal letters patent to the
archbishop — such as Long holme, east and west, Styefelde,
Abbeyfelde, Dodeyng, Sheep close, &c. The manor of Bramley
in the reign of James I. was acquired by the Saviles of Howley,
from whence it came to the Brudenels, Earls of Cardigan, who
are its present Lords.
One of the most extraordinary instances of superstition and
credulity which modern times has witnessed, has been afforded
in this village. A wretched woman, a native of Thirsk, but
residing in Leeds, had for some years rendered herself infamous by
her artifices and extortions as the Yorkshire witch. Mary Bate-
man, for this was the name of the impostor and murderess,
aroused the attention and excited the alarm of foolish persons
in 1806, by exhibiting an egg upon which she had inscribed,
" Christ is coming," and which she declared was a preternatural
prodigy. She first extorted the property of her victims, and
then poisoned them. In 1806, William Perigo, a small clothier
at Bramley, went to consult her upon the case of his wife, who

BRAMLEY. 195
was supposed to labour under the indefinable calamity of " an
evil wish." The sorceress gladly interposed ; pretending to be
directed by the agency of an imaginary personage, denominated
Miss Bly the, she retained Perigo and his wife under her diabolical
influence for nine months, and succeeded by alternately exciting
their fears and their hopes, of cheating them out of seventy
pounds in money, out of all their furniture and wearing apparel,
and in fact out of all the property they had in the world. When
the infatuated dupes found themselves reduced to beggary, with
out the fulfilment of any of the splendid promises by which the
hag had kept them in her toils, they became importunate and
clamourous, and Mary Bateman, to rid herself from their now
unprofitable applications, and to escape from impending detection,
determined to destroy them by administering poison. She gave
them some murderous drug, which as a charm they were to mix
in their food ; both Perigo and his wife partook of honey and
pudding which they had prepared with the poison ; the female
soon afterwards died, and the constitution of her husband was
ruined. It was not until after the death of his wife, that Perigo
broke the fatal spell, he applied to the magistrates of Leeds, the
witch was apprehended, tried, executed, and her body was given
for dissection to the surgeons. — An example of infatuation and
ignorance which the annals of the kingdom cannot parallel.
The village of Stanningley is usually accounted within the
limits of the township of Bramley, though part of it is in the
township of Farsley. There can be little doubt that it derived
its name from the stony character of the neighbourhood, the
fences of the roads and of the fields, and the walls of the houses
being all constructed of stone. The inhabitants of Stanningley,
like those of Bramley, are almost exclusively supported by the
woollen manufacture, they have been generally accounted the
rudest and most unpolished in the district, and their houses and
their persons by no means exhibit any very remarkable attention
to cleanliness. This village has occasionally witnessed explosions
of popular violence upon manufacturing and political grounds,
and it has sometimes been found necessary to call in the aid of
the military to repress the tumultuous dispositions of the inha
bitants. A pleasing change however is now in progress, the
besotted ignorance of the people is rapidly disappearing, know
ledge is now extensively diffused, and the influence of Sunday
Schools, and of the administration of religious ordinances has

196 BRAMLEY.
produced the happiest results. Situated on the high road between
Leeds and Bradford, Stanningley is a busy thorough fare, and
several large manufacturing establishments furnish employment
and support to a considerable number of families.
POPULATION OF BRAMLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
2562 3484 4921 7039
In taking our leave of these manufacturing villages in the
parish of Leeds, we must offer a single observation upon the,
character and manners of their population. It is generally stated
that the inhabitants of these busy scenes of industry are rude to
fierceness in their department, and that they are lost in ignorance
upon every topic which is not involved in their manual occupation^
This is only very partially correct. In these villages there are
many truly respectable individuals and families, whose man
ners, without partaking of the affected refinement far too com
mon in our large towns, are highly agreeable, whose informa
tion is as extensive as reading and thought can make it, whose,
rural principle attaches a sterling weight to their character, and
whose spirit of charity, benevolence, and patriotism attaches,
honour to their names. Of rudeness and ignorance there is,
indeed enough, but these hateful attributes are neither so common
nor so obtrusive as they were a few years ago.

197

CHAPEL ALLERTON.

The name of this village, by far the most beautiful and respect
able in the parish of Leeds, has exercised the ingenuity of
Thoresby, who asserts that AUerton, a designation imposed upon
four adjoining hamlets, is synonymous with Saxon words, signi
fying the Alder Hills. It appears almost certain that this
eminent topographer was right. *
AUerton is thus mentioned in Doomsday Book. " In Alreton
Glenner had six carucates of land to be taxed, where there may
be three ploughs. Ilbert now has it and it is waste. Value in
king Edward's time, forty, shillings. Wood pasture one mile
long and half broad." t It thus appears that this vicinity was
included in the terrible devastations of William the Conqueror,
and that at the time of the survey it was depopulated and
waste. In less than a century after this survey, it was divided
by the Lacies among several subordinate grantees, one line of
which assumed the surname of AUerton. The diligence of Dr.
Whitaker, % has communicated the knowledge of a number of
charters belonging to Kirkstall Abbey, found during the last
century in an old house in Chapeltown, together with a number
of original grants of small properties to the same house, many
of them of the highest antiquity, all beautifully written, and
preserved with such exemplary care that many of the seals
remain entire. From these charters and [grants, it appears that
from the time of Samson de Alreton, contemporary with the
foundation of Kirkstall Abbey, the land in this township was
gradually absorbed in the immense possessions of that opulent
religious house. After the dissolution, the lordship of Chapel Feb. 26.
Allerton remained with the crown, until in 1601, it was granted
by deed to Thomas Killingbeck, Thomas Marshall, John Thwait,
and John Hadder, for the sum of £258. 10s. llgd. Allerton
Hall, was long the seat of the Kitchingman family, and was the
* Ducat. 123. f Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 128.
X Loid. and Elm. 125.

198 CHAPEL ALLERTON,
largest and most ancient mansion in its vicinity. It was sold by
James Kitchingman, in 1755, to Josiah Oates, Esq. of Leeds,
who demolished the old house and built the present mansion on
its site. The place is now the property of W. W. Brown, Esq.
A ridiculous custom prevailed among the Kitchingmans of
interring the corpses of their deceased relatives by torch light.
When Mr. Robert Kitchingman died in 1716, no less than one
hundred torches were carried at his interment at Chapel Allerton,
and other customs were observed, of which the only laudable one
was the donatioii of fifty pounds to the poor. The good sense
and true feeling of the people have long since abolished such
monstrous and disgusting mummeries as these. A house called
Sunderland Hall, late in the occupation of Mr. Farmery, once
chief constable, and now town's husband of Leeds, deserves
observation in this place. It is the remnant of a house formerly
occupied by a family who bestowed upon it its name, and whose
property was sold in allotments about forty-five years since.
Chapel Town Moor was, until the commencement of the
present century, one of the most beautiful promenades in the
neighbourhood of Leeds. It was the place where feats of agility
and pedestrian performances were frequently exhibited, and where
in the time of war large bodies of the military were exercised and
reviewed. On one occasion (June 27, 1795,) when the Leeds,
Bradford, Halifax, Huddersfield, and Wakefield Volunteers were
reviewed at this place by General Cameron, sixty thousand spec
tators were present and three hundred carriages appeared on the
ground. The wise system of inclosing productive land and ren
dering it conducive to the support of an immensely increasing
population, rendered it necessary that this plot of ground, contain
ing more than three hundred acres, should be applied to other
purposes, and Chapel Town Moor has long since disappeared.
Allerton Gledhow, in this township, demands for a
moment the attention of the reader. The word Gledhow, is
either derived from the Saxon words signifying the Hill of Burn
ing Coals, or more probably from two words meaning the Hill of
of the Kite.* The name Gledhow first occurs in one of the
charters to which we have just alluded, dated in 1359. Allerton
Gledhow, like Chapel Allerton, was the property of .Kirkstall
* Ducat. 129. Loid. and Elmete 131.

CHAPEL ALLERTON. 199
Abbey. That an ancient house) formerly existed at this place is
indubitable, about the year 1680 it was inhabited by a family of
the name of Waddington. Mr. Hugh Sleigh greatly improved
the old. house;, his heiress married Henry Pawson, Esq. whose
only daughter married William Wilson, Esq. Alderman of Leeds.
Mr. Wilson dying in 1764, leaving only one daughter, his widow,
by virtue : of an act of parliament, sold the estate to Jeremiah
Dixon, Esq. Mr. Dixon increased his estate by the purchase of
the manor or Lordship of Chapel Allerton, and of the estate of
Lady Dawes and her son. He also made considerable additions
to the house, and adorned its vicinity with extensive plantations.
The mansion, which is certainly *one of , the most beautiful resi
dences in the neighbourhood of Leeds, is now tenanted by Lady
Beckett, the relict of the late Sir John Beckett, Bart.
Of Moor Allerton little information can be given which will
interest the reader ; it no doubt derived its name from its vicinity
to the Moors — Blackmoor in its immediate neighbourhood deriv
ing its name from the colour of its peat, and the hue assumed by
its crags after exposure to the atmosphere. These crags furnished
the stone of which Trinity Church in Leeds was built, and which
was given for that purpose by Mr. Killingbeck, of Hooton Pagnel, a
Roman Catholic. Blackmoor like Chapeltown moor, has disap
peared, and its former aspect of irreclaimable sterility has been
exchanged for the cheerful luxuriance of corn fields and meadows.
Beeston is notthe only place in this parish which has been distin
guished in the annals of crime. In 1680 a monster, John. Grice,
who from the appellation of esquire appears to have moved in
respectable society, murdered his pregnant wife and two children
with circumstances of savage barbarity which will not admit of
description, and for this atrocious crime is said to have been
smothered at York.
POPULATION OF CHAPEL ALLERTON.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
1054 1362 1678 , 1934
GIPTON.
At Gipton we have already stated that there was formerly a
Saxon encampment whose traces are now totally obliterated.
From this circumstance it has been supposed that the name origi
nated (Cip a tent, and Tun an inclosure). This derivation does

200 CHAPEL ALLERTON.
not seem likely. Gip, says Dr. Whitaker, was most probably the
monosyllabic name of the Saxon who first fixed his habitation on
the site. The name of the place repeatedly occurs in documents
of the reigns of Edward I., Edward II., and Edward III. At
this place, says Thoresby, " is a very curious cold spring, which
in a Romish country could not have missed the patronage of some
saint. 'Tis of late years accommodated with convenient lodgings to
sweat the patient after bathing, and is frequented by persons of
honour, being reputed little or nothing inferior to St. Monagh's.
Over the entrance is inscribed Hoe fecit
Edwardus Waddington,
De Gleadhow,
Anno Domini, 1681." «
The waters of Gipton have lost their celebrity and are no
longer frequented. There is no reason why they should not be
restored to fame. If some chemist were to report an analysis of
their component parts, if some physician were to publish a book
in their praise, and if some speculator were to build a decorated
bath, a large hotel, or perhaps a crescent of houses with a sound
ing name, it is certain that quite as much benefit would be reaped
from Gipton well, as from many of the springs which are highly
extolled for their salutiferous qualities, and around which com
plaining valetudinarians and idle loungers so numerously con
gregate. * Loid and Elm. 133. Ducat 112.

201

POTTER NEWTON.

We have already referred to the conjecture of a zealous, learned,
and indefatigable antiquary, that there was formerly a Roman
pottery at this place. A hundred and thirty years ago, there were
evident remains of the Meta?, i.e. circular heaps of rubbish whose
materials decisively indicated their origin, and other mounds
which appear to be the ruins of the furnaces. It is probable also
that at this place there was an extensive manufactory of those
Roman bricks which are to be seen in considerable numbers among
the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey. From this circumstance it is sup
posed that the former part of the name is derived. It has been
observed by antiquaries that the apellations Newton and Newing-
ton have been given to several towns in the neighbourhood of
Roman stations, and which have evidently obtained their names by
contrast with the old towns, where the first conquerors and posses
sors of Britain resided prior to their departure from the island.
Potter Newton is certainly a place of very considerable
antiquity. In a charter very little posterior to the foundation of
Kirkstall Abbey, William the son of Richard de Newton gave
" to God, to the holy Virgin, and to the monks" of that religious
house three acres of his land. And at another grant nearly
contemporary with this, Juliana de Lungvilliers Lady of Farnely
bestowed upon the same abbey a plot of her cultivated ground in
the same place. In both these grants mention is made of a distinc
tive place in Potternewton called Linborch or Limberch. After
considerable inquiry the writer has been unable to discover any
trace of the name, and he is obliged to content himself with the
meagre conjectures of antecedent inquirers, who imagine it to
have referred to some ancient fortification.
Potter Newton was formerly famous for three ancient houses,
the seats of as many distinguished families. Scot Hall was the
residence of the Scots, who derived their name not from the Saxon
word which signifies darts or arrows, but from the country from
which the first of their name, steward to the Empress Maude,
2d

202 POTTER NEWTON.
mother of Henry II. migrated to England. The names of these
Scots are frequently met with as witnesses to various deeds from
the reign of Edward III. to that of Henry VIII. The last of this
family known to have lived at Newton or Potter Newton, was
Gilbert Scot, who died in the thirty-third year of Henry VIII.
(consequently in 1542), and who at the time of his decease was
possessed of the manor of Newton, of one hundred and twenty
acres of land, twenty-six of meadow, forty-eight of pasture,
thirty of wood, a water mill, two hundred acres of moor, &c.
These estates seem ultimately to have merged in the Calverleys
of Calverley, from whom they diverged into various hands.
Another old Hall formerly existed at Potter Newton which
was the residence of one branch of the ancient family of the
Mauliverers, but which has fallen a prey to the ravages of time.
To trace the subsequent possessors of an edifice which has long
since passed away, would be of no possible advantage to the reader.
" Newton Hall," says Thoresby, " is a venerable old fabric,
and stands low and shady." This house, was successively the
residence of several distinguished families until it came, in
the first year of the sixteenth century, with an estate of three
hundred pounds a year (a large income in those days) to the
Hardwicks, one of whom, in the reign of Edward VI. purchased
the manor.* From the Hardwicks the estate passed by marriage
to the Claverings, and from them, in the same manner, to the
first Earl Cowper, whose heirs and representatives own consider
able property in the vicinity.
The manor of Potter Newton has long been possessed by the
Saviles of Methley, by whom it is still retained. The most
remarkable house in this neighbourhood at present is Low Hall,
the residence of George Wailes, Esq. a heavy brick building of
the age of Charles II. yet of imposing appearance, commanding
an extensive prospect to the south, and with a fine avenue of
trees from the northern entrance to the road.
POPULATION OF POTTER NEWTON.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
509 571 664 863
* The will of Thomas Hardwick, who made this purchase, is remarkable,
as containing a proof of protestantism in the midst of popery. He died in the
reign of Mary, and commended his soul to Almighty God, his Creator and
Redeemer, hoping, through Jesus Christ, to be saved, without referring to the
saints, according to the senseless fashion of the times.

203

SECTION II.
THE PARISH OF CALVERLEY.

No certain information can be afforded of the derivation of
the name of this village and parish. It has been conjectured
with some probability that Calfere was the first Saxon possessor
of the place, and that from him it has received its designation.
If this be correct, then Calverley originally signified the field of
Calfere. It is thus described in Doomsday Book. " In Calver-
leia and Ferselleia, Archil had three carucates of land to be
taxed, and there may be two ploughs there. Ilbert has it and it
is waste. Value in King Edward's time twenty shillings.,
Wood pasture, half a mile long, and half broad."* From this
description the reader will perceive that like the great majority
of the manors and townships in this district, Calverley had been
reduced soon after the era of the Conquest to total depopulation
and misery.
There is every reason to believe that the Lacies granted
Calverley and Pudsey to Alphonsus the son of Gospatric.
Landarina, one of the three daughters of this mesne lord of the
place, married John Scoticus or the Scot, to whom we have
alluded in our account of Potter Newton, and who was so called
because he came from Scotland with the Empress Maude, in the
capacity we have just stated to the reader. He was the founder
of the family which so long flourished at this place, and which
bore the name of Scot, alias Calverley, until the close of the
fifteenth century, when the first designation was finally merged
in the second. Instead of giving a tedious, dull, and useless
* It has also been supposed that the village was so called by the elision
of a consonant very common in local names before the first letter of the last
syllable I from Calfherd, which afterwards itself became a family name in
Calvert, the field of Calfherds. Loid. and Elm. p. 216.
f Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 144.

204 CALVERLEY.
account of the successive principals of this ancient family, and
their marriages and connexions, we shall confine ourselves to
those particulars in its history which involve something like
interest and importance. Thomas Wilson who has made such
extensive manuscript collections relative to the history of this
district, informs us, that John Scot or Calverley who lived in
the fourteenth century " was beheaded for committing crimes so
horrible that they were not fit to be described — so much so, that
Wilson recommended to the possessor of the manuscript in which
they were enumerated to destroy the scandalous and detestable
record. Sir John Calverley, the grand nephew of the above named
culprit, was slain at Shrewsbury, valiantly fighting for King
Henry IV. against Hotspur and Glendower. The Calverleys
must gradually have accumulated considerable landed property,
for William Calverley, Esq. who lived in the reigns of Edward
VI. Mary, and Elizabeth, was seized of the manors of Calverley,
Pudsey, Burley in Wharfdale, and of lands in Bagley, Farsley,
Eccleshall, Eccleshall Park, Bolton in Bradfordale, and Seacroft.
This gentleman had married a lady who was a zealous Roman
Catholic, and who had such influence in retaining her husband
in the bonds of the old superstition, that he suffered very con
siderably in his estate in consequence of the fines which were
imposed according to the intolerant practice of the times to punish
his recusancy.
His son Walter Calverley was the perpetrator of a crime
which formed the subject of tragic representation* two hundred
years ago, and which still excites the liveliest emotions in the
inhabitants of the place when induced to communicate its history
in the neighbourhood of its scene. In order to understand the
subsequent narrative, it must be stated before we proceed, that
Walter Calverley had married about the year 1601 Philippa the
the daughter of Sir John Brooke, by whom he had three sons
William, Walter, and Henry.
Prior to his marriage with this lady, he had formed an engage
ment with another, the daughter of " an ancient gentleman of
chief note in his country ;" but when he arrived in London, and
saw his subsequent wife> he violated his vows and repaired to the
altar with the guilt of a perjured man upon his head. Soon
after his marriage, he degraded himself by habitual intoxication,
* In the Yorkshire Tragedy falsely attributed to Shakspeare.

CALVERLEY. 205
rioting, and debauchery, and speedily impoverished himself by
his reckless prodigality. In order to obtain a supply of ready
money to defray the expence of his vices, he demanded from
his wife the disposal of her dowry, and she prepared to obey his
mandate by proceeding to her guardian in London, to instruct
him to effect the sale. The gentleman to whom she applied, who
seems from the original narrative to have been her uncle, evaded
compliance with her proposition, but stated his readiness to
shelter her husband from the suit of his numerous and urgent
creditors, and to provide for him a place of sufficient value to
enable him to maintain the style of living, and the appendages
of rank to which he had been accustomed. The lady hastened
to Calverley with the agreeable intelligence, but her unhappy
husband was absent, surrounded by his wicked companions, and
pursuing his infamous debaucheries. At length he returned,
maddened with perpetual intoxication, with the consciousness of
his crimes, and with the conviction that he had utterly ruined
himself and his family. To such an extreme of wickedness had
he latterly proceeded, that he had endeavoured to account to his
associates and to the world for his estrangment from home, by
asserting the infidelity of his wife and the illegitimacy of his
children. He had even fought a duel with a gentleman who had
presumed to remonstrate with him upon his base injustice to a
most excellent and virtuous woman, and he was indebted for his
life to the forbearance of his antagonist. When he arrived at
Calverley, he hastened to his wife, and was engaged in loading March 23,
her with reproaches for not having sold her dowry, when he was
interrupted by the arrival of a gentleman from one of the
Universities. This gentleman had come for the purpose of
stating to Mr. Calverley the condition of an injured brother, who
had become bound for the payment of a thousand pounds for the
murderer, who had been sued for the debt, and who at that very
time was languishing in a prison, because of his inability to
satisfy the creditors. Mr. Calverley replied with composure to
this friend of his brother, he requested the gentleman to walk
over his estate, and promised that on his return he would give
him a satisfactory answer to his communication. The gentleman
had no sooner departed, than Mr. Calverley retired to his gallery,
where he brooded over the misery he had entailed upon himself
and his relatives by his crimes. While he was thus occupied,
his eldest child, a boy of about four years of age, came into the

1605.

206 CALVERLEY.
gallery to play, the unnatural father, in a phrenzy of rage, seized
upon the helpless boy, plunged his dagger twice or thrice into his
body, and hurried with him into the apartment where his wife
was asleep, while the nurse was dressing another child by the fire.
The infuriated assassin caught the second child from the arms of the
nurse, whom he threw with great violence from the door of the room
to the foot of the stair case. The noise awoke the unfortunate
mother, who instantly perceived the danger of her children. She
clasped the second child to her bosom, received herself several
thrusts of the dagger while she vainly endeavoured to defend it
from her husband, and saw it stabbed to the heart in her arms,
Mr. Calverley, perceiving that both the children were dead upon
the floor, and that their mother was weltering in her blood,
determined to complete his work by murdering his third son,
then out at nurse twelve miles off. After a desperate struggle
with a servant whom he mastered, he left the house for the
stables, and met the gentleman just alluded to on his return
from his walk. As he passed him he desired him to walk into
the house, and told him that he would soon arrange his brother's
business. He then mounted his horse, and set off at full speed
on his sanguinary errand. The gentleman no sooner entered the
house, and saw the fearful spectacle it presented, than he con
jectured the additional crime the murderer intended to perpe
trate; he roused the inhabitants of the village, and commenced a
vigorous pursuit. Mr. Calverley was thrown from his horse
when he was within a few yards of the house where his child was
placed, and was so disabled by his fall, that he was easily secured.
The next day he was taken before Sir John Savile, of Howley,
and Sir Thomas Bland, when he confessed his crime, declared
that he had harboured the intention of the murder for more than
two years, and that his reason for it was that his wife had
frequently given him indications of her own adultery, and tokens
that the children were not his. As the plague was raging in
York, he was committed to Wakefield prison, but was subse
quently taken to York and brought to his trial, after an interval
of four months from the murder. Either from desperate obsti
nacy or from a desire to save the property upon his estate for
the use of his only surviving son, he refused to plead, was con-
August 6, demned to be pressed to death, and was executed according to his
sentence. From an old narrative of this dreadful transaction; written

1605.

CALVERLEY. 207
shortly after it occurred, it would seem that Mr. Calverley prior
to his removal to Howley, to be examined before Sir John Savile,
was taken back to his own house, where the following incident is
said to have occurred which we shall give in the words of the
history. " He intreated the multitude he might speak with his
wife before he came to prison, who he heard was alive though
in great danger ; that liberty was granted him. The distressed
gentlewoman when she saw him, forgot her own wounds and the
death of her two children, and did a loving, kisse him and tenderly
imbrace him, as if he had never done her wrong ; which strange
kindness so shook to his heart, remembering the misery he had
heaped upon her, that imbracing one another, there was so
pittiful lamentation between them, that had flinte had ears it
would have melted into water." The lady afterwards recovered
from her wounds.
The manors of Calverley and Pudsey, with the appurtenances
in Calverley, Eccleshall, Farsley, &c. had prior to this event been
settled in trust on Sir John Brooke and others, for the lives of this
Walter Calverley and Philippa his wife, and after their decease
on William Calverley, son and heir apparent, and his heirs and
so forth. Henry Calverley succeeded to the estate, and was
distinguished for his active loyalty in the cause of Charles I., he
was visited with the vengeance of the opposite party, he was
fined to the amount of one thousand four hundred and fifty-five
pounds, and to pay the sequestration, he was compelled to sell his
estate at Seacroft, for one thousand three hundred and eighty
pounds. * He was the last of the family who permanently
resided at Calverley Hall. His son Walter was created knight
of the Royal Oak by Charles II. on account of the sufferings of
the family in the cause of loyalty, he married the daughter and
heiress of Henry Thompson], Esq. of Esholt, through whom he
obtained possession of that beautiful estate. Walter Calverley,
created a baronent 1711, married Julia, the daughter of Sir
William Blackett, Bart, he built the present excellent house at
Esholt, and his son Sir Walter, who took the name of Blackett,
on succeeding to the estate, sold the manor of Calverley to
Thomas Thornhill, Esq. to whose heir Thomas Thornhill, Esq.
of Fixby, in Yorkshire, and Riddlesworth, in Norfolk, it still
belongs. * The value of this composition may be ascertained from the fact, that the
same estate was sold a few years ago, and produced forty thousand pounds.

208 CALVERLEY.
The centre and one wing of Calverley Hall still remain,
and notwithstanding the defilement and degradation of the
building satisfactorily attest its ancient magnificence. The prin
cipal timbers of the roof, which are richly fluted, ascend to support
the roof from an embattled wall plate of strong oak, but the sub
divisions which were rendered necessary when it was turned into
cottages, have obliterated most of the traces of its former magni
ficence. It is probable that the present fabric was built about
the reign of Henry VI. The apartment in which the murder
of the two children by their unhappy father was perpetrated,
was a wainscotted chamber in the north east angle of the house,
from which a staircase descended to what appears to have been
the principal or state room of the house. To the family of the
Calverleys we shall again have occasion to allude when we refer to
the history of the church.
A curious document relative to this village has been published
by Dr. Whitaker,* which illustrates the danger which persons
obnoxious to their neighbours incurred in the times of abject
superstition. In the year 1604 four persons whose names were
Robert Hare, Isabel Hare his mother, Ann Brigg, and Eliz.
Birkenshaye, all of Calverley, were suspected of " the devilish art
of witchcraft." They were accused of this crime before the
Justices of Assize by six inhabitants of the village, who signed a
document declaring that the unfortunate individuals " had prac
tised and done much hurt and mischief to their neighbours," and
that this had been proved by the examination of several persons
in the vicinity. That the clergyman of the village placed his
name the first on this precious document can occasion no surprise,
when it is recollected that the pedantic James I. could devote his
time to the composition of a demonology, and that the gravest
and.most influential persons in the kingdom could unite in con
demning to imprisonment and death those who by a satanic power
could ride on broomsticks through the air, and subject the beasts
of the field and the elements of nature to their command.
FARSLEY.
Farsley is a populous village on the banks of the Leeds and
Liverpool Canal, inhabited almost exclusively by clothiers. In
the neighbourhood of this village an occurrence took place in
* Loid and Elmete, 232.

FARSLEY. 209
December 1882, which excited considerable alarm. A difference
had existed for some time between Mr. A. Hainsworth; a cloth-
manufacturer, and his work people,- respecting an advance of
wages which he had agreed to give, only requiring his men to
sign an agreement stating that they were willing to work for him
on these terms, and at the same time intimating that those who
refused to sign the paper would be discharged when they had
finished the work in hand. This agreement was offensive to the
Trades' Union, and Mr. Hainsworth received a notice from the
secretary of that body stating that if he did not continue to
employ the whole of his work pebple a strike would take place.
Because he' refused to accede to this requisition, a number of
weavers and slubbers quitted his service. Some of the people,
however, who were not in the Union, remained at their work.
Among these individuals was a young man, James Benson, a
native of Ireland, about nineteen years of age, and his sister a
few years younger ; both of them were obnoxious to the Union
men, by continuing at their work, and became in consequence
what was technically called Black Sheep. On Wednesday, Dec.
5, they left Mr. Hainsworth's house, where they had been working
to return to their home at Stanningley, a mile and a half from"
Farsley. They had proceeded little more than a third of the dis
tance, when they were suddenly surrounded by thirty of forty1
men, Benson was mortally wounded, and-' died at five o'clock on
the following7 morning, but the sister fortunately effected her
escape after receiving some severe blows. The following verdict
was returned by the Jury on the Coroners Inquest ; " We find a'
verdict of wilful murder against divers persons unknown tous>
and we further find that the deceased had become obnoxious to a1
large body called the Clothier's Union, by refusing to leave his
masters employment, and to join them in their endeavours to
compel his master, Abimelech Hainsworth, to submit to the
dictation of the said Clothier's Union, by paying his workmen
such wages as they proposed, and to receive into his service only
such persons as the said Union approved of, and have too much !
reason to fear that his murder has been the consequence of1 his
fidelity to his master." Although one hundred pounds reward'
was offered by the royal proclamation' for the discovery of the:
murder, and although another hundred pounds reward was offered
by the Trades Union, who disclaimed the whole affair and'
denounced it in the severest terms of reprobation, no clue has yet
2 E

210 PUDSEY.
been found to lead to the apprehension of any of the murderers,
notwithstanding so many were united in the perpetration of
the crime. We have recorded this event because it indicates
one peculiar characteristic of the age, developing something of
the nature of a formidable system existing among a number of
combined work people, which a former age could not have
imagined, and which a succeeding age will scarcely believe.
PUDSEY.
This place is thus mentioned in Doomsday Book. " In
Podechesaie, Dustan and Stainulf had eight carucates of land to
be taxed, where there may be four ploughs. Ilbert now has it,
but it is waste. Value in King Edward's time, forty shillings.
Wood pasture half a mile long and half broad." * The township
of Pudsey therefore participated in the general devastation of
the country in the reigu of the ruthless Norman conqueror. This
village was the seat of the ancient family of the Milners, or as
the name was formerly spelt, of the Mylners, who were settled
there in the reign of Edward II. and one of whom purchased
the manor of Walter Calverley, in 1663. No particulars can be
recorded of this place which will interest the reader. Immense
excitement was created here during the registry of votes for the
last election for the West Riding, by the objections which were
brought forwards by the Tory party against about ninety free
holders in. the township, principally the owners of mill property,
held in partnership. Sixty-six of these claims were allowed
before the revising barristers at Bradford, and the consequence
was, that the victory was celebrated with unbounded rejoicings
in the village, the church bells were rung incessantly on the
evening of the day on which the triumph was achieved, the
steeple was brilliantly illuminated, and the inhabitants united in
general congratulation and festivity.
The village of Pudsey is inhabited almost entirely by clothiers,
and notwithstanding its elevated situation, it is one of the dirtiest
and most unpleasant in the district.
At Fulneck, in the township of Pudsey, the Moravians, or
United Brethren, have formed one of the most extensive and
important establishments they possess in the kingdom. A number
of persons both Britons and foreigners, who had formed a connexion
with the United Brethren, began to build this settlement in
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 141,

IDLE. 21 1
1748, and they called it Grace Hall, or Lamb's Hall. They were
visited by Count Zinzendorf, who had afforded an asylum to some
of the persecuted descendants of the ancient Moravian churches
on one of his estates in Germany ; and about the time of his visit
the place began to be designated Fulneck, by which name it has
been known through the kingdom. A long series of excellent
buildings, with a fine terrace in front, is carried along the north
side of a beautiful valley, and contains ample accommodation for
the fraternity. The edifices consist of a chapel, a school for girls,
a residence for the minister, a school for boys, a house for single
men, another for single women, and another for widows. The
houses for separate families form a considerable village, in
which various branches of trade are cultivated, although the
woollen manufacture employs the largest proportion of the
population. The skill of the single women in working muslins
with the needle and tambour has long been celebrated, and
the produce of their labours frequently sells at a very con
siderable price. The vocal and instrumental music at public
worship at this place, has been deservedly considered superior to
any thing of the kind in the vicinity. The burial ground is
strikingly beautiful, and presents an impressive scene of simple
solemnity and repose. Few communities in the kingdom or in
the world are conducted with such admirable order and regularity,
or have been the means of effecting so much good as that of the
United Brethren, at Fulneck.
IDLE.
Idle is a very large village, or rather town, in this parish,
inhabited by manufacturers and clothiers, who carry on a very
considerable trade. It is an irregular, rambling, dirty place, on
the declivity of a hill, with nothing to recommend its appearance,
or remarkable in its history. Its chapel and other places of wor
ship will be described in another place — its academy, supported
by the Congregationalists for the instruction of young men
intended for the ministry, has been removed to the neighbour
hood of Bradford, and the establishment at Woodhouse Grove,
near Apperley Bridge, founded on the principle of the seminary
at Kingswood, for the education of the sons of Wesleyan Metho
dist ministers, will be elsewhere alluded to. The proximity of
the Leeds and Liverpool Canal affords to the village the inesti
mable advantages of internal navigation.

212

POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF CALVERLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Calverley and Farsley, .... 2,081 2,390 2,605 2,637
Bolton,  471 581 634 671
Idle,  3,398 3,882 4,666 5,416
Pudsey,  4,422 4,697 6,229 7,460

213

SECTION IIL— THE PARISH OF GUISELEY.

HORSEFORTH.
This place is evidently so called from a ford practicable by
horses through the river below. It has however been asserted,
that since by Kirkby's Inquest,* it appears that Hereford was a
name given to it in ancient times, it signifies " the ford of the
army," from the Saxon Here, an army. This assertion however
may be safely dismissed without further observation.
Horseforth is twice mentioned in Doomsday Book. First it
is mentioned among the Lands of the King. " In Horseforde
three Thanes had six carucates to be taxed. Land to three
ploughs. Thirty shillings." Again, under the head of Land of
the King's Thanes, it is stated that Robert de Bruis held in
Horseforde two carucates. t This Robert occupied a vast quan
tity of land in this neighbourhood, in other parts of the West
Riding, and in the East and North Ridings. It would seem
that the land here was generally cultivated, but although no
wood is mentioned, it is evident from subsequent records and
from the face of the country at the present day, that the woods
must have covered a considerable extent of ground. The family
of Robert de Bruis, or Brus, from whom were descended the
celebrated Bruees of Scotland, and the present noble family of
Aylesbury, continued for a considerable period to hold land in
Horseforth, for Kirkby's Inquest mentions tbat the heirs of John
Mauleverer held one carucate of Peter le Brus. The abbots of
Kirkstall, at an early period, acquired the principal part of Horse
forth, apd after the dissolution, Edward VI. in the first year of
his reign, granted all the demesne lands held by the monastery of
Kirkstall with other estates, to Archbishop Cranmer. Three
years afterwards Cranmer obtained a licence to alienate these
lands for the use of Thomas Cranmer, his eldest son. That this
TJioinas transferred his possessions to Edward Lord Clinton,
* Kirkby's Inquest was taken A. D. 1287, the fifteenth of Edward I.
f Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 34, 234.

214 HORSEFORTH.
appears almost certain from the fact that this nobleman sold the
manor of Horseforth to Samuel Green, Stephen Pasley, Richard
Pollard, John Stanhope, and Robert Craven. Of the families of
these purchasers of the manor, the Stanhopes, the Pollards, and
the Cravens, remain to the present day.
The family of the Stanhopes resided at Horseforth for many
generations, and their ancient residence before the New Hall
was built, is still to be seen on the road to Calverley. They
surrounded the latter residence with a small park, and their plan
tations, carried on to the summit of the very high hill on the
north, form a conspicuous object to an immense distance on the
east. The hall is now the residence of the Rev. J. A. Rhodes. •
We shall have occasion to state in another place the liberality of
the Stanhopes in the erection of the present episcopal chapel on
the site of the ancient edifice. This family have not been the
only benefactors of the village. The road from Horseforth to
Bramley, to Stanningley, and to Bradford was formerly immensely
circuitous and difficult, the evil was remedied in 1819, when John
Pollard, Esq. erected an iron bridge over the Aire immediately
below the village at an expence of one thousand five hundred
pounds. But few events have occurred in this village and its neigh
bourhood, which demand the attention of the reader. Horse
forth, like Beeston and Calverley, has been distinguished by one
fatal circumstance in the annals of crime. In the month of July,
1804, the inhabitants were appalled by the intelligence that Mr.
William Stables, a cloth manufacturer, had been murdered in his
own house. John Stables, his brother, immediately offered a
reward of one hundred guineas for the discovery of the perpetra;
tors of the horrid deed. Upon this man, however, notwithstanding
his apparent zeal, the suspicion of his neighbours ultimately
rested, and it was generally feared that as a fratricide he had
imbrued his own hands in the blood of the victim. However this
may be, he was never happy afterwards, existence became intole
rable, and three months after the death of his brother he hanged
himself in his own barn.
New Laiths, near Horseforth, was long the residence of the
very ancient family of the Greenwoods, descended from Wyomarus
Greenwode, "Cater" to the Empress Maude, in 1154. A cu
rious fact is ascertained relative to this estate, it has been
twice conveyed from the family and twice it has been regained by

RAWDEN. 215
them. James Greenwood, who served as a soldier in the war
between the Dutch and Spaniards, and Mary, his second wife, the
daughter of Francis Bellhouse, Town Clerk of Leeds, conveyed
the estate at New Laiths, in 1658, to Thomas Lord Viscount
Savile, Earl of Sussex, and in 1670, James Lord Viscount Savile,
Earl of Sussex, and Baron of Pontefract and Castletdn, recon-
veyed the estate to the same individual. Again James Green
wood, the son of the preceeding, sold the estate to John Swaine,
of Horseforth, in the year 1699, and it was repurchased by Joseph
Greenwood, his nephew, who died 1728. The recent alterations
which have been made in the house at New Laiths, have elevated
it to the rank of a commodious and respectable mansion, the situa
tion is most beautiful on a sheltered and wooded eminence above
the Aire, and the prospect down the river would be truly delight
ful were it not too frequently interrupted by the black clouds of
smoke which emanate from Kirkstall Forge.
RAWDEN.
The derivation of this name has been satisfactorily ascertained
to be from Raa, a wild goat, and Den, a woody place or valley
affording both food and shelter for cattle. Rawden, like Horse
forth, is twice mentioned in the Doomsday Book, First among
the King's lands it is stated, " In Roudun Glunier, Ganiel and
Sandi had three carucates to be taxed. Land to two ploughs.
Ten shillings." And again it is stated that "Robert de Bruis
or Brus held here six oxgangs."* It would seem, however, that
the king, soon after the compilation of Doomsday Book, granted
this estate to Paulinus de Rawden, as a reward for his services
with a body of archers which he commanded, and here the family
continued for more than six hundred years. The most renowned
person in this family during its resdence at Rawden was Sir
George Rawden, a warrior and hero. He had a command in
Ireland, and was absent at his own estate when the horrible
massacre of 1641 was perpetrated in that country. As soon as he
heard the tidings, he hastened through Scotland to his post, and
arrived at Lisburn, seven miles from Belfast, at the very time
when Sir Phelim O'Neale, at the head of four or five thousand
papists, was about to break into the town, and to murder the
inhabitants. Sir George found only two hundred men ready to
resist the ferocious banditti who had desolated the country with fire
•Bawdwen's Doomsday Book. 34, 234.

216 YEADON.
and sword, and even this little band had only forty-seven- muskets
among them; but they. were animated with a determination to
sell their lives as dearly as possible,, and even the women prepared
to participate in the dangers of the conflict. Sir George, who
was well known among the native Irish, made his dispositions
with such consummate skill, that the enemy soon became aware
of his return, and the cry, " Sir George Rawden has come from
England, intimidated the assailants." Numbers, however, were
on the point of prevailing; Sir George's horse was shot under
him, and the enemy were already raising a shout of triumph,
when a reinforcement and a supply of ammunition arrived^ from
Belfast, the papists were defeated, Sir George saved his little
garrison from massacre, and acquired the honour of having per
formed one of the most glorious actions of the war. Sir George,
who had previously been created a baronSt, afterwards commanded
a regiment for Charles I. and died in 1684; in the eightieth
year of his age. His great grandson was created baron Rawden,
of Moira 1750, and Earl Moira 1761. He married for his third
wife, Lady Elizabeth Hastings, Baroness Hastings in his own
right. Their son Francis Rawden Hastings, as the Earl of Moira,
and one of the. intimate friends of George IV, when Prince of
Wales, was for a long time one of the most prominent characters
in the empire. He was created Marquess of Hastings, was
Governor-General of India, and afterwards became Governor of
Malta. He was succeeded in his title and estates by George
Angustus Francis, the present Marquess.
The Hall at Rawden, long the residence of this distinguished
family, is situated a little to the east of the church or chapel,
and with its extensive front and projecting gables, placed on a
commanding and elevated situation, presents an extremely
imposing appearance from the new road between Yeadon and
Kirkstall, and still exhibits numerous indications of the dignity
and importance of its noble possessors. The village is principally
inhabited by clothiers, and there are some very extensive manu*
factories in the neighbourhood. We have already stated that
one of them, belonging to Messrs. Thompson, was visited by the
Luddites in 1812, and a considerable quantity of machinery was
destroyed.
YEADON
Is derived from Ea-dun, the water on the hill, for above the
village there is a turn which appears to have been partly natural,

GUISELEY. 217
and gave its name to the place. Yeadon is thus mentioned in
Doomsday Book : " In Ladun, Game, and Glunier had four
carucates to be taxed. Land to two ploughs. Twenty shillings."*
From this it appears that at the time of the Conquest Yeadon
was double the value of Rawden. It afterwards belonged to the
nunnery of Esholt. No particulars can be recorded of this vil
lage of any general interest. For the period of forty years, it
was lately degraded by the practices of an impostor called Han
nah Green, or the Lingbob Witch, who extorted more than a
thousand pounds from the silly crowds of credulous people who
resorted to her to have their fortunes told, or to ascertain how
they could recover lost property, or avert imaginary ills. This
woman died in 1810, and was succeeded in her lucrative profes
sion by her daughter Hannah Spence, who, strange to tell, found
a man possessed of sufficient courage to marry a witch. In these
remote parts of the country, notwithstanding the diffusion of
general and of religious knowledge, there still lingers much of
superstition, and many a foolish idea and ridiculous practice must
be driven away, before the "march of intellect" and the pro
gress of " the schoolmaster," ere the credulity of the people is
dissipated. GUISELEY.
Foil this place a very few words must suffice. In Doomsday
Book it is just mentioned as Gisele,t and is included in one vast
manor with Otley, and many surrounding villages belonging to
the archbishops of York. At this period, for Otley, Middleton,
Denton, Poole, Guiseley, Baildon, Menston, Burley, Ilkley, and
many adjoining places, there was but one church ; and limited
as the population must have been in the Saxon times, it was
materially diminished by the ravages and cruelties of the Nor
mans. For it is expressly stated that the greater part of this
extensive district was waste, and though in the time of Edward
the Confessor it was worth ten pounds, it had suffered so deplora
bly, that its value had been diminished more than two thirds.^
Soon after this period Guiseley became the lordship and the resi
dence of the Wards, a family of considerable importance in this
part of the country, from the twelfth to the sixteenth century,
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 34. f Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 52.
X Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 52.
2p

218 GUISELEY.
when they became extinct. Of the beautiful church which they
built, an account will be given in another place. After the death
of Sir Christopher Ward in 1522, the manor of Guiseley was sold
to the Sherburnes, of Stonyhurst, in Lancashire, and in 1717 it
was bequeathed by the last of that family, Sir Nicholas Sher
burne, Bart, to his daughter the duchess of Norfolk. It was
afterwards sold to the freeholders, who are now the joint lords.
The situation of Guiseley, though rather high, is comparatively
sheltered, and the village is far more comely and pleasant than
either of its subordinates, Rawden or Yeadon. Nothing can be
stated of Carlton which will interest the reader.
HAWKESWORTH, long the residence of one of the most
ancient and respectable families in the county of York, is situated
to the west of Guiseley, on a cold but commanding elevation, and
commands a most extensive view both of Airedale and the distant
hills of Clayton Heights and Saddleworth. Of the residents at
this place, which was abandoned by its proprietors for the warmth
and comfort of Wharfdale, we shall give some particulars in the
proper place.
It may be remarked in closing this account of the parish of
Guiseley, that the convenience of Yeadon, of Rawden, and Horse
forth, as manufacturing villages, has been most materially sub
served by the new road from Guiseley, which communicates with
the Leeds and Bradford road at Kirkstall. It will be difficult to
select in this district any road which for so long a distance, com
mands a prospect so extensive or scenery so beautiful, the view
from the neighbourhood of Rawden looking towards Rombalds
Moor and up the valley of the Aire is one of the finest in the
country. POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF GUISELEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Carlton,  115 185 158 181
Guiseley  825 959 1,213 1,604
Horseforth  2,099 2,315 2,824 3,425
Rawden  1,115 1,450 1,759 2,059
Yeadon  1,659 1,954 2,455 2,761
Total  10,028.

219

CHAPTER IV.

BRADFORD.

There can be no doubt that the name of this prosperous and
important town has been derived from the ford at the foot of the
hill upon which the old church has been erected. Since, however,
the bed of the brook which runs down the valley to the Aire is
very contracted, topographers have been at a loss how to account
for the epithet Brad or Broad. But this appellation may have
been imposed, either because of the floods which in the time of
tempest or of winter rush from the high hills, and render the
brook a foaming and a formidable torrent, or because the waters
rolled down a pebbly bed of considerable width. This is the case
with many streams in themselves insignificant, which have chan
nels of great breadth, and the fording of which is occasionally
very dangerous.
In the Saxon times Bradford was a place of no consequence
whatever, it formed a part of the great parish of Dewsbury, and
in all probability it afterwards was consolidated, like Leeds and
many other neighbouring places, into the great barony of
Pontefract. This town is mentioned in Doomsday Book in the following
terms, " In Bradford with six Berewics, Gamel had fifteen caru
cates of land to be taxed, where there may be eight ploughs.
Ilbert has it and it is waste. Value in King Edward's time,
four pounds. Wood pasture half a mile long and half broad."*
The scourge then of desolating war had visited this township, as
well as other regions t>f the north ; no allusion is made to any
inhabitants ; no reference is given to any resident proprietors or
occupiers of land ; no reason is given for believing that any of its
soil was under actual cultivation, and the value of the produce
appears to have been absolutely nothing. From the statements
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 141.

220 BRADFORD.
of the Doomsday survey most of the townships in the parish were
evidently reduced to the same solitude and ruin, and the condition
of the district round Bradford was indubitably still more deplora
ble than that of the country in the vicinity of Leeds.
In this melancholy state, however, the place was not suffered
long to remain. The Lacies were not only in possession of the
rich fee of Pontefract, but also of the barony of Clitheroe in
Lancashire; and those potent noblemen would often have occasion
to pass from the one to the other on occasions of pomp, or business,
or war. The fatigues of so long a march through a wild, a
rugged, a desolate, and almost an uninhabited country, required
a halting place ; and the tempests which often sweep with tremen
dous fury over the bleak hills, and along the deep vallies, would
frequently demand a shelter for the chieftains and their retainers.
For these purposes, Bradford would be selected as being directly
in the way, as being situated in a warm and pleasant valley, and
having a country around it which, with a little cultivation, might
easily be rendered productive of adequate supplies. But in these
rude times, when the Norman conquerors were hated as well as
feared, when their oppressions and insolence frequently goaded
the native inhabitants to insurrection and revolt, and when the
foreign Barons themselves were frequently waging implacable
and sanguinary feuds, security from open violence and treacherous
surprise would be essential to shelter,and the resting place of a pow
erful nobleman, repeatedly visited, would rapidly assume the
apperance of a strong fortification. It is not only probable, but it is
certain, that in the time of the Lacies, there was a fortress at Brad
ford, for in the inquisition taken after the death of Henry de Lacy,
the last Earl of Lincoln, in 1316, the term burgesses occurs,
which was never applied but to the residents in the neighbour
hood of a castle. The security afforded by the existence of such
an edifice, and by its garrison, together with the hope of obtaining
some advantage or privilege from the lords who either rested or
resided at the place, would soon create the rudiments of a village
or a town, their safety and prosperity would soon attract the
inhabitants of a less settled and protected district, and then, says
Dr. Whitaker, who never fails to identify a town with a church,
" The inconvenient distance of the place, and still more so of the
remoter parts of the present parish from Dewsbury, would
occur. The Lacies were a devout * and munificent family ; and
* That is lovers of ecclesiastics and founders of monasteries.

BRADFORD. 221
at the representation of the people of Bradford, an agreement
would be made with the Earls Warren, a stipend in lieu of tithes
and other rights settled upon the rector of Dewsbury, a rectorial
glebe and tithes assigned to the incumbent of the new parish, and
a church erected."*
In these halcyon days of ecclesiastics, when no sturdy dissen
tient dared to question their undoubted claim to tithes and "other
rights," and when it was esteemed a fatal calamity to die with
out the presence of a priest, or to be buried in other than conse
crated ground, the accomplishment of such an arrangement in
such a method was extremely probable, and the conjecture is not
likely to be very far removed from the actual state of the case.
So early, however, as the year we have mentioned above (1316)
it is evident from the Inquisition alluded to, that the castle had
been either demolished or destroyed, and a manor house had been
erected in its stead. Various interesting particulars are commu
nicated by this inquisition relative to the state of the town and
parish of Bradford. Of the forty thousaud acres which the parish
contains, only fifteen hundred at this period had been reclaimed.
All the old manors mentioned in the Doomsday survey, had been
absorbed in that of Bradford, and one court was holden for the
affairs of the whole every alternate three weeks. The town con
sisted of twenty-eight burgage houses, and besides the burgesses
was inhabited by probably about as many tenants at will and vil
lanes. Its whole population therefore did not amount to more
than three hundred souls. Two mills are mentioned in the inqui
sition, a corn mill and a fulling mill. It has been conjectured
that the soke of the first was co-extensive with the parish, because
its profits amounted to more than one fourth of the lords receipts
from the whole. The existence of a fulling mill argues that some
kind of coarse manufacture had already commenced. The glebe
of the church extended to ninety-six acres of land. One curious
fact remains to be mentioned, the market was held on Sunday ;
which seems to imply, that in a parish of such vast extent, and in
which a large proportion of the inhabitants lived at an immense
distance from the town, it was in those days deemed allowable to
identify going to market to buy necessary provisions, and going to
church to listen to unintelligible prayers.
By the marriage of Alice de Lacy, only daughter and heiress
of the last Earl of Lincoln with Thomas Earl of Lancaster, the
* Loid and Elm. 351.

222 BRADFORD.
possessions of the Lacies were united to those of the duchy of
Lancaster. In the time of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster,
the following curious grant was given, the history of which wo
state in the language of Gough. " Bradford belonged to John of
Gaunt, who granted to John Northorp, of Manningham, and his
heirs, three messuages and six bovates of land, to come to Brad
ford on the blowing of a horn in winter, and to wait upon hiin and
his heirs on their way from Blackburnshire, with a lance and
hunting dog for thirty days ; to have for yeoman's board one
penny for himself, and a half-penny for his dog. A descendant
of this Northorp afterwards granted land to Rushworth of Hor-
ton to hold the lance, while Northorp's man blew the horn. The
name of Hornmen or Horn blower's lands, was imposed upon the
lands in question, and the custom is still kept up. A man conies
into the market place with a horn, a halbert, and a dog ; he is
there met by the owner of the lands in Horton. After the pro
clamation made the former calls out aloud, " Heirs of Rushworth,
come hold me my hound, while I blow three blasts with my horn,
to pay the rent due to our sovereign lord the King." He then
delivers the string to the man from Horton, and winds his horn
thrice. The original horn, resembling that of Tutbury in Stafford
shire, is still preserved, though stripped of its original ornaments."
These fragments of ancient tenures are highly interesting, and in
some respects useful, as they testify to the rude manners of the
olden times, as they point out the abject condition of the great
body of the people under the feudal system, and as they illustrate
the superior safety of property and the better maxims of right
which prevail in these happier times.
Of the extent of population, of the relative condition of the
town, and of its progress in the scale of general importance, no
further information can be communicated for nearly three hun
dred years. The testimony of Leland proves that in the reign of
Henry VIII. Bradford had very considerably increased in mag
nitude, and was already distinguished by the spirit, industry, and
enterprise of its inhabitants. The words of the old topographer
are, " Bradeford, a praty, quite market towne, dimidio aut eo
amplius minus Wackefelda. It hath one paroche chirche, and a
chapel of St. Sitha. It stondith much by clothing, and is distant
vi miles from Halifax, and four miles from Christeal abbay.
There is a confluence in this towne of three brokes. One risethe
above Bouline Haul, so that the bed is a mile dim. from the

BRADFORD. 223
towne, and this at the towne hath a bridge of one arch. Another
risethe a ii mile of, having a mille and a bridge of 
the 3 risethe foor mile of having . . . . " And in another place,
to which we have already adverted, he says that Leeds, though
" as large as Bradford is not so quick as it." It is evident then
from these passages, that Bradford was even then celebrated for
its manufactures, that its bustle of trade communicated to it
great liveliness of appearance, and that next to Wakefield it was
in all probability the most prosperous town in the West Riding
of Yorkshire. The seeds of its future greatness were then sown,
although it was long before the golden harvest was presented to
the reaper. Leland seems to have had a more accurate acquain
tance with this locality, than many of his topographical succes
sors ; for while with reference to the brooks, almost the only
descriptive phrase made use of for some time afterwards was,
" the water which runneth by Bradford," he has described them
with great accuracy and propriety.
Another fact is ascertained by the language of Leland. From
the circumstance, that in some of the oldest attestations to a
charter connected with this vicinity, the town is spelt Braforthe,
combined with another circumstance, that this pronunciation until
very lately was preserved by the inhabitants of the parish — it has
been contended that this was the original orthography of the word,
that therefore the derivation which we have given above of the
designation of the town, cannot be correct, and that consequently
the ford was not distinguished in the name as being broad or
brade,, but as having been beneath the brae, or brow, upon whose
commanding elevation the parish church was erected. All this
is very plausible, and is certainly very unimportant, but it may
be remarked, that the whole conjecture is completely falsified by
the incontrovertible authority of Doomsday, combined with the
decision of so accurate a writer as Leland.
" Quik," however, as Bradford may have been in the reign of
Henry VIII. it must have been comparatively a most miserable
place ; a few wretched lanes beneath or in the immediate neigh
bourhood of the church constituted the whole of the town ; the
houses were hovels, composed of stone, of plaister, and of wood,
covered with thatch; the comforts, or as they would then have
been deemed, the effeminate luxuries of modern times, were
unknown ; the " clothing" fabricated by the inhabitants by some
rude process of manual labours, was unsightly, Coarse, and perish-

224 BRADFORD.
able ; and the whole population was immersed in superstition,
ignorance, and barbarism.
We have no record of any transactions in Bradford during the
times of confusion which followed the demolition of the papal
tyranny and the dissolution of the monasteries. It is rendered
probable by some insignificant circumstances, that the inhabitants
were prejudiced in favour of the old superstition ; that they were
zealously attached to the cause of the wandering friars,
 White, black, and grey
With all their trumpery ;
and that some of its sturdy sons partook in the temporary
triumph and ultimate defeat of the fanatics of the Pilgrimage of
Grace. Situated on the high road between York and the catholic
districts of Lancashire, it would witness .the incessant transit of
the papal emissaries in their enthusiastic attempt to bolster up
their falling cause by arousing the passions of the credulous
populace, while at the same time the good sense and character
istic acuteness of the people, would induce them to spurn with
contempt the absurdities and blasphemies of popery as soon as
they were exposed and denounced.
The Inquisition of 1577 gives us no information beyond the
number of the manors, villages, and hamlets into which the vast
parish of Bradford was then divided. We shall content ourselves
with giving the general list without translating the particular
details, which have no possible connexion with our history.
V. Allerton cu\ H. Wilsden. V. Bolton. V. Boiling. V.
Clayton H. Heton cu.' Frising hall. V. Thornton cu.' H.
Cockham and H. Hedley. V. Horton parva. V. Horton
magna. V. Haworth cu'. V. Oxenhope and V. Stanbury. V.
Manningham cu.' Northop. V. Wyke cap. mess. Voc. Cross-
ley Hall. These divisions and names of places may be compared
with those which already exist, and will enable the reader to
form some estimate of the local geography of the period.
It may be remarked in this place, that the date of the rapid
increase of the population and consequent importance of Brad
ford, may be ascertained from that of the present church. The
building which preceded it had in all probability become ruinous;
the erection of a fabric of such imposing magnitude and appear
ance as the second church would certainly never have been under
taken but in a town highly flourishing and extending ; and since
the church was finished in the thirty sixth year of Henry VI.

BRADFORD. 225
there can be little doubt that in the reign of that unfortunate
monarch, Bradford first began to emerge into importance from
obscurity and insignificance. The desolations and calamities of
the wars of the Roses seem never to have reached the parish of
Bradford. The history of Bradford, with the exception of that part of
it which includes the civil wars, is by no means interesting, and
in consequence of the arrangement we have adopted in this work,
is almost entirely included in the ecclesiastical and commercial
departments. Under the latter head will be found a variety of
particulars of the highest possible importance both to the inhabi
tants of the town, and of the West Riding of Yorkshire. The
parish indeed affords fewer subjects for antiquarian and historic
research than any other in the district, on account of the fact that
no Roman station, no Roman remains have ever been discovered,
and no monastic foundation ever existed, within its limits.
We have already given an extended narrative of the trans
actions which affected the condition of Bradford in the reign of
Charles I.— we have described the indomitable courage and
unparalleled spirit of its inhabitants in that eventful struggle,
and the ardour and pertinacity of their attachment to the cause
of the parliament — we have related the events which took place
in its seiges by the royalist forces, its imminent danger of military
devastation and entire destruction, and the extraordinary and
providential means of its deliverance — and we have stated how
after the final retreat of the cavaliers, it was made the point of
concentration for the adherents of the popular party and the
friends of liberty and republicanism. However honourable to the
inhabitant's was the bravery which so often resisted the fury of
disciplined soldiers and the operations of skilful generals, and
however renowned it became in consequence of the prominent
part which it acted in the operations of the war, it is certain that
a shock was given to its prosperity from which it only very slowly
and gradually recovered. Military courage in the inhabitants of
any town in the time of intestine war, is the most dangerous and
expensive virtue which can be exhibited, and so the people of
Bradford found it to their cost ; they were saved it is true from
the horrors of military execution, and they obtained a first and
foremost place in renown, but their trade was ruined, their wealth
was diminished, their affairs were reduced to a state of abject
stagnation, and more than half a centurv elapsed before they
2g

226 BRADFORD.
recovered from the effects of the contest, and were enabled to
congratulate each other on their resuscitated prosperity. It was
probably in consequence of this circumstance that Bradford was
outstripped by Leeds in the career of improvement, and that
with the single exception of the institution and endowment of
their grammar school hereafter to be described, no event occurred
for more than a hundred years, which warrants an introduction to
this narrative.
About the middle of the last century the town appears to have
been in a flourishing condition, although no material increase took
place in the numbers of its population. Iu 1768 the cloth and
wool of the inhabitants seem to have been exposed in their yards
and fields without sufficient caution, for when at that time a
great flood took place in the beck, a considerable quantity of their
commodities were carried away by the stream and were irrecover
ably lost to the owners. At the same time the bridge, most
likely an old and insufficient structure, was swept away by the
fury of the torrent, and a man and a boy who were standing upon
it at the time, were also overwhelmed by the waters.
The following year a festival was celebrated with considerable
splendour in Bradford, which, after the lapse of every seven
years, still excites the joyful attention of the district. Bishop
Blaize, who held the see of Sebaste in Armenia, of which country
he is deemed the patron saint, is generally supposed to have
invented the art of combing wool. On this account the wool-
combers hold a jubilee on his festival, and by processions and
other tokens of rejoicing, commemorate the important institution
of the founder of their art. From time immemorial this festival
has been held sacred, and on particular occasions considerable
expense has been contracted to render the ceremonies worthy of
the day. There has not, however, been so much enthusiasm
recently as formerly. The attention of the operative population
has been directed to so many topics involving all their welfare,
and in fact their very existence, that they are more deliberate
than joyous, and reflection has in a great measure taken the place
of excitement. The fact which we have stated in our General History of the
District, that the sera of the American war was the commence
ment of that energy of political inquiry which has ever since
distinguished the inhabitants of this department of Yorkshire,
is fully substantiated by the history of Bradford. We find the

BRADFORD. 227
town illuminated on the aquittal of John Wilkes, at that time
esteemed the champion of popular liberty ; many families, too,
conceiving that in our trans-atlantic possessions they would escape
from that burden of taxation by which they were here ground
down to the dust, left their country and their homes in search of
exemption from imposts and superior prosperity ; the people rose
in tumultuous exasperation against the government, whose impo
litic proceedings they justly deemed the cause of that dearness of
the provisions of life by which their families were reduced to the
verge of starvation ; and on more than one occasion the strong arm
of the law was required to repress the excesses of popular violence
and disaffection.
At the same time the inhabitants of Bradford conferred
honour upon themselves and upon their town by their liberality
and patriotism. During the French revolutionary war, when the
invasion of the country was repeatedly threatened by its mortal
enemies, they raised and equipped one of the best appointed corps
of volunteers in the West Riding ; and when the different towns
were individually required to furnish a certain number of men
for the naval service of the kingdom, the Bradfordians formed a A.D. 1795.
kind of recruiting procession of gentlemen and tradesmen, who
paraded the town with music and the usual appendages of such a
proceeding, and succeeded in obtaining their quota with far less
difficulty than in the places in their neighbourhood.
We have already stated many circumstances which clearly
shew, that up to the commencement of the present century, the
most deplorable ignorance and the grossest credulity prevailed
among a very large proportion of the people of this district.
Education was by no means generally diffused, nor were the ideas
of the poorer classes enlarged and rectified by reading. Bradford,
as well as many other places in its vicinity, afforded striking indi
cations of this melancholy fact. A fellow resided in the town to
whom great numbers of people resorted in order to have the future
exposed to their observation, and to obtain that exemption from
calamity which it was supposed supernatural knowledge could
confer. A frightful circumstance completely confounded the pre
tensions of the sorcerer and rescued his tools from his power.
This John Hepworth, for so the Bradford fortune teller was called,
was consulted, among others, by a poor aged weaver, who had
been repeatedly injured by his neighbours, and who according to
the preposterous prevalent belief, came to the conclusion that his

228 BRADFORD.
dwelling was haunted by an evil spirit. He sent for John Hep-
worth to exorcise the house. The seer took a quantity of human
blood, mixed it with hairs, poured it into a large iron bottle,
corked it up tightly, and put it into the fire. This was the
charm which was to drive away the devil. The steam, however,
produced by the boiling of the blood, burst the iron bottle into a
thousand fragments, the weaver was killed upon the spot, and the
wretched cause of the catastrophe was unable any longer to sup
port himself upon the contributions of impiety and folly. This
event is of no importance in itself; but as an indication of the state
of the people at the time, and of the extent to which, even at this
late period, an odious superstition prevailed among the people, it
is by no means devoid of interest.
The astonishing progress of Bradford in mercantile, manufac
turing, and general importance, did not commence until the
beginning of the present century. That we may avoid interfering
with our commercial history, we shall content ourselves here with
giving a mere statement of that progress. One of its greatest
auxiliaries was the opening of a branch canal from the heart of the
town to the Leeds and Liverpool canal, so that the inestimable
advantages of internal navigation were afforded to the inhabitants;
the introduction and increase of the stuff manufactory is the vital
source of this amazing prosperity; the business which is transacted
in the Thursday's market is immense, and the Piece Hall, of which
we shall speak hereafter, presents on these occasions one of the
most animated scenes in the kingdom. It has been justly observed
by Mr. Baines, to whose historical labours every town in the dis
trict is deeply indebted, that " no manufacturing town in England
has suffered so little from the depression of trade as Bradford.
In war and in peace it has been alike prosperous. It has indeed
felt the vicissitudes of trade in common with other places, but the
depression has generally been of short duration, and it has been
among the first to feel the vivifying effects of the return of pros
perous times." The rapid progress of Bradford is indeed one of
the most striking phenomena in the history of the British Empire.
The population has increased in a manner truly amazing. In
1801 it consisted of six thousand and a little more than three
hundred souls, and in 1831 it amounted to more than twenty-
three thousand two hundred, that is to say it has nearly quadru
pled in thirty years. And the progress of its intelligence, its
opulence, its educational privileges, and its charitable and reli-

BRADFORD. 229
gious institutions, has kept pace with the increase of its popula
tion ; and there is no town in the kingdom where there is more
comfort, more true respectability, more liberal public spirit, or a
more zealous attention to every possible means of moral and social
improvement. Abundant demonstrations have been made of the
justice of these observations. Of the grammar schools and other
similar institutions, of the numerous charities, and of the religious
edifices we shall elsewhere speak. Concerning the general
appearance of the town we can only say in correspondence with
our limits, that within the last twenty years it has altered mate
rially for the better, greater attention has been paid to the aspect
and regularity of the houses and to the direction of the streets,
and though the buildings, formed of white stone, soon contract a
miserably dirty appearance from the immensity of the smoke
which issues from the mills, and in particular states of the wea
ther envelopes the whole town in a murky cloud of stifling vapour,
yet some of the new streets have a very respectable appearance.
The opening of New Street in a right line with the brook, and of
the new road to Leeds directly from the Sun Inn, have been very
great improvements, and the new streets, more particularly on the
north side of the town, are imposing if they are not elegant. The
New Market, opened on the 16th of September, 1824, is very
commodious — the Gas Works opened just a year before, under
the auspices of a company formed in 1822, brilliantly illuminate
the town — the Dispensary, the foundation stone of which was laid
by the vicar, the Rev. H. Heap, on the 29th of May, 1826,
affords inestimable advantages to the diseased and the destitute —
the two establishments for supplying the town with water are very
complete — The Mechanics Institute, founded in 1829, has disse
minated a taste for enlightened investigation among many of the
operatives — the Joint Stock Banking Company, established in
March 1827, with a capital of five hundred thousand pounds, in
one hundred pound shares, has essentially subserved pecuniary
stability and convenience — the Savings' Bank, in Bank Street,
has been most useful to the poor — and the Exchange Buildings,
opened in October 1829, is a monument of the spirit and liberality
of the town. This elegant and classical edifice was erected from
the designs of F. Goodman, Esq. it contains an excellent library,
a news room, a concert room, and every accommodation for the
public, and is one of the most complete establishments of the kind
in the county. Justice has usually been administered in the

230 BRADFORD.
Piece Hall. It was anticipated that on account of the want of
accommodation in the prison and for the magistrates, the Quarter
Sessions would have been removed to Wakefield, but in the pre
sent month (March 1833) the inhabitants have determined to
obviate the disgrace which such an occurrence would attach to
the town, they have come forward in a most liberal manner to
Obtain a proper Court House and Prison, and aided by a grant
from the magistrates, there is no doubt that the object will soon
be accomplished. The town of Bradford has more than once been agitated by
alarming commotions excited by the adoption of machinery and
the subject of wages. The operatives, not without reason,
regarded the introduction of power looms with hatred and exas
peration. A worsted stuff manufacturer of the town, Mr. James
Warbrick, in 1822, having procured one of these obnoxious
machines, sent it as privately as possible to a mill at Shipley,
where its operations were to commence. The people, however,
soon ascertained the fact, public notice was given of its arrival in
all the neighbouring villages, a great number of weavers
assembled and threatened to level the mill with the ground if
the loom was not instantly taken away, it had no sooner been
placed in a cart, protected by a body of constables, than the exas
perated weavers rushed upon it with irresistible fury, the consta
bles were compelled to seek safety in flight, the loom was destroyed,
and its roller and warp was dragged in triumph through Baildon.
The unfortunate Operatives were, however, unable to obstruct the
general adoption of the detested machines, they were soon almost
universally introduced into the manufactories, and there are now
a vast number of power looms in active operation in Bradford and
its neighbourhood. The year 1825 witnessed events at Bradford which excited
general attention through the kingdom. In the month of
February, the festival of Bishop Blaize was celebrated with more
than usual splendour and gaiety, and during the same month, the
inhabitants, for the benefit of the operative population, established
their Mechanics Institute. Dissatisfaction had become universal
On account of the wretched wages which were paid for labour, and
a popular explosion soon took place. On the fourteenth of June
the woolcombers and weavers of the town and the adjacent villa
ges turned out for an advance of wages— the masters would not
accede to the terms which were proposed— and the consequence

BRADFORD. 231
was, unexampled excitement and exasperation. Twenty thousand
of the operatives formed what was called the Bradford Union ;
for twenty-three weeks they maintained their opposition to the
system against which they protested ; during the whole of this
time they were supported by contributions and collections from
the working classes in different parts of the kingdom, who united
to maintain what they considered a common cause ; but at the
expiration of the period we have mentioned, the union men were
obliged to turn in to their work at the old prices. The union was
dissolved on November 7th, but twelve hundred of the combers
and weavers, and more than one thousand of the children, could
not for some time obtain employment even at the old prices, and
the consequence was deplorable and unprecedented distress,
many unfortunate families being reduced to the extreme of
starvation. This was perhaps the most unfortunate year in the whole
history of Bradford. The public credit of the town received the
most alarming shock it ever experienced from the stoppage of the
bank of Messrs. Wentworth, Chaloner, and Rishworths. This
firm, whose transactions were immensely extensive, had not only
establishments in Wakefield, London, and York, but it had a
bank in Bradford, and its paper was very generally circulated
in the town and neighbourhood. This tremendous failure pro
duced a panic in this part of the kingdom unexampled in its his
tory, and many have not yet recovered from its effects. One
result of this circumstance was, that many building and other
speculations were suddenly arrested, a great many workpeople
were thrown out of employ, and the resources of many of the
trades people and others were completely destroyed. Never per
haps was there a period of such consternation and commercial
vicissitude. It redounds in no common degree to the honour of
the Bradford people, that their prudence, their stability, and
accuracy, preserved them in a great measure from the full extent
of those calamities which filled many other places with almost
indiscriminate ruin.
The following year (1826) was signalized by the most alarm
ing riot which ever took place in the town of Bradford. On the
afternoon of the first of May, a meeting of unemployed workmen
was held upon Fairweather Green, at a short distance from the
town. The meeting was by no means numerous, not more than
two hundred and fifty persons having been at any time assembled.

232 BRADFORD.
These misguided and infatuated men, goaded on by their misery,
proceeded about five o'clock in the afternoon to the mill of Messrs.
Horsfall, near the Old Church, which contained a number of
power looms for weaving stuffs ; but although they threatened
the demolition of the building they retired for the present, after
having only broken the windows. Having proceeded to Bradford
Moor, they were joined by a reinforcement of two hundred men,
and encouraged by this accessiou to their numbers, they returned
to the mill between eight and nine o'clock', but the Riot Act hav
ing been read they dispersed for the night. The next day was
passed in tolerable tranquillity. On Wednesday, May 3rd, ano
ther meeting was held on Fairweather Green, this meeting was
attended by a considerable number of the weavers, and the per
sons assembled increased their mutual animosity against the
denounced machinery by inflammatory speeches and communica
tions. About four o'clock they moved in a body to Mr. Horsfall's
mill, and they again broke the windows, just repaired after the
previous assault. It was evidently the intention of the rioters to
gain admission to the mill, and there can be no doubt that their
object was to destroy the whole of the machinery. Mr. Horsfall,
however, had taken precautions which effectually frustrated the
attempt, he had placed iron bars before all the lower windows of
the manufactory, and had secured the doors by strong planks, so
that it was impossible without instruments, of which the rioters
were destitute, to force an entrance. Colonel Plumbe Tempest,
one of the magistrates of the district, attended by a number of
special constables, at length appeared upon the ground, and read
the riot act; the people were not intimidated; they continued
throwing stones into the windows, and one of them fired a pistol
into the mill. This last outrage shewed to the persons collected
for the defence of the place, that it wr.s high time to act in self
defence, they fired twenty or thirty shots among the mob, by
which a young man and a boy were killed, and a great many were
severely wounded. The rioters dispersed with trepidation, but
two of the most active persons among them were apprehended,
and were sent to York Castle for trial. These violent tumults
did the cause of the workpeople the greatest possible injury. The
masters instead of being intimidated, became more desirous than
ever to relieve themselves from the dictation which had been
assumed by the people, and the power machinery, against which
such prejudice prevailed through the whole district, was more

BRADFORD. 233
generally adopted to- the great diminution of the demand for
manual labour.
The commercial importance and the increasing population of
the town of Bradford demanded, when the Reform Act was intro
duced to the legislature by the Grey ministry, that it should be
placed in the first rank of boroughs, and that it should return
two representatives to parliament. It was evident, some time
before the election, that a contest would take place. Mr. Hardy,
late the Recorder of Leeds, and Mr. Lister, a resident in the
borough, came forward at an early period ; and Mr. Banks, a
most respectable merchant, and one of the aldermen of Leeds,
was induced to become a candidate upon the requisition of a great
number of the electors, who justly admired his character, and had
all possible copfidence in his integrity and abilities. The borough
of Bradford, it should be stated, does not comprise the whole
parish, like the borough of Leeds, but only includes the town
ships of Bradford, Manningham, Horton, and Bowling. Mr.
Horsfall, the returning officer, appointed Thursday, December
18, 1832, for the day of nomination, and it was arranged that in
the event of a contest, the polling should commence on the fol
lowing day at nine o'clock — the booth for Bradford and Man
ningham being arranged to be in the Piece Hall, and that for
Horton and Bowling at a house in Tyrrell Court, adjoining the
town's office. It became pretty evident that Messrs. Hardy and
Lister would be returned ; for although Mr. Banks was very
respectably supported, the exertions of his friends were diminished
by the little anxiety he evinced about the election, and he lost a
considerable portion of the popular favour by not attending the
great West Riding meeting at Wakefield, when Lord Grey's
administration had resigned. The day of nomination was usher
ed in by the ringing of bells, and the whole town speedily
assumed an appearance of unwonted liveliness and bustle. At
twelve o'clock the returning officer, accompanied by Mr. Hardy
and Mr. Banks, and by the friends of Mr. Lister, who was unfor
tunately confined by indisposition to his room, appeared on the
steps in front of the Piece Hall, from which very eligible situa,
tion the speakers addressed the assembly. Mr. Charles Harris
•proposed Mr. Hardy, and Mr. Hollins seconded the nomination.
Mr. Hardy then addressed the electors, but was repeatedly inter
rupted by some of the people. Mr. John Hustler, Jun. proposed
Mr. Banks, and Mr. James Garnet seconded the nomination.
2 H

234 BRADFORD.
Mr. Banks then delivered his sentiments to the electors. Mr. R.
Margerison proposed Mr. Lister, and Mr. M. Peacock seconded
the nomination. Mr. John Wood, Jun. and the Rev. Messrs.
Boddington and Bull proposed questions to the candidates rela
tive to taxation, the factory bill, a revision of the poor laws in
England, and the establishment of them in Ireland. The answers
given to these questions was highly satisfactory. When the
shew of hands took place a very decided majority appeared for
Mr. Lister. The numbers were so nearly equal between Mr.
Hardy and Mr. Banks, that a second shew was called for, which
the returning officer announced to be in favour of Mr. Lister and
Mr. Hardy, and he accordingly declared them to be duly elected.
Mr. John Hustler then demanded a poll on behalf of Mr. Banks,
which was granted. On Friday morning the poll commenced,
but Mr. Banks found it unavailing to struggle with the decisive
majority against him. The contest was soon decided in favour of
his opponents. Mr. Lister and Mr. Hardy were declared duly
elected, and have assumed their seats in the imperial legislature.
Bradford has every reason to be gratified with her representatives,
and there is little doubt that the possession of the elective fran
chise will be a great benefit to tlfe town.
The disgraceful violence and acrimony by which contested
elections have been too often distinguished in other places, were
unknown in Bradford with very few exceptions, and the public
approbation is demanded by the manner in which the contest
was commenced, was conducted, and was terminated.
The importance of Bradford thus recognised by the legisla
ture is strll progressively increasing — it is in vain perhaps to
expect that the town will ever rival either in magnitude or popu
lation its great neighbour Leeds — but there is little doubt that
in the course of a few years Bradford will be one of the first
places in the British empire for opulence, prosperity, and intelli
gence. We devoutly wish it all happiness and success — may its
manufactures ever flourish, may its masters ever obtain both mar
kets and -remuneration, and its operatives be able to maintain
themselves in credit and in comfort upon the produce of honour
able industry !
During the course of last year Bradford, like almost every
other town in the district, was visited by that tremendous scourge
the Asiatic cholera. But though its ravages were tremendous
about three miles to the north east, in the neighbourhood of Idle

BRADFORD. 235
and Apperley Bridge, the town itself suffered very little, the
alarm of the inhabitants gradually subsided, and towards the close
of the year the disease entirely disappeared.
The appearance of Bradford from a distance is very striking.
Perhaps the most imposing view of the town is from the hill
above Horton, on the road from Halifax. Although part of the
town is built in a very low situation, other parts gradually rise
upon the surface of the surrounding acclivities, which thus per
mit the display of almost every building in the place. It is true
that the interior of the town is very dirty, very irregular, and
very unpleasing, but an immense number of excellent houses,
sometimes beautifully situated, some of them of aspect almost
approaching to magnificence, most of them surrounded with plea
sant grounds, and all of them indicating the comfort, opulence,
and respectability of their owners, rise in every direction about
the town, and attest the laudable enterprise and justly merited
success of the inhabitants. Bradford church, from the lower
parts of the town, is a very imposing object. Placed on a com
manding eminence, the lofty tower which has defied the storms of
war as well as the tempests of the atmosphere raises its venerable
head, and the whole edifice, since its recent repairs, displays the
piety of past and the munificence of modern times. It may here
be. remarked that the country in the neighbourhood of Bradford
is by no means pleasant when compared with the tracts within a
few miles of it. Letting alone the predominance of manufactures,
and the nuisances which are almost always to be found in coun
tries abounding with coal, the summits of the hills are so bleak,
the air is so cold, the climate is so variable, and the soil is often
so wretched, that the prospect, as such, by no means inspires
agreable emotions, nor would the neighbourhood ever be regarded
as an eligible scene of permanent residence, were it not for the
character of the inhabitants and the vast importance of the trade.
POPULATION OF BRADFORD TOWN.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
6,393 7,767 13,064 23,233

236

BOWLING, BIERLEY, ECCLESHILL, AND
MANNINGHAM.

The above are the only townships in the parish of Bradford
which come within the limits of our district, and nothing can be
related with reference to two of them of sufficient interest to require
record in the present work.
BOWLING, formerly called BOLLING, was the seat of an
ancient family of the same name, which retained possession of it
until the reign of Henry VIII. When that monarch swayed the
sceptre of England, Rosamond, the daughter and heiress of Tris
tram Boiling, the last male descendant of this branch of the family,
married Sir Richard Tempest of Bracewell, and conveyed to the
Tempests Boiling with the manors of Thornton and Denholme,
and other lands in Clayton and Oxenhope. In the time of the
civil wars, Richard Tempest, who had embraced the cause of the
King, and who had imbibed the spirit of dissipation and
debauchery which was characteristic of too many of the cavaliers,
sold this estate to Henry Savile, Esq. of Thornhill Green.
Eight years after the Restoration, this gentleman disposed of it
to Francis Lindley, Esq. of Grays Inn, in whose family it
remained until it descended, seventy-three years ago, to Francis
Pigot, Esq. the heir at law ; he disposed of it to Captain Charles
Wood, of the royal navy, who died of a wound he received in a
battle with the French in 1782. The estate then descended to
his son, Sir Francis Wood, Bart, of whom the manor was pur
chased by Messrs. Sturgess, Paley, and Mason. ,
Bowling Hall is one of the most remarkable, one of the most
majestic, and one of the most interesting houses in the district.
At each end of the south front, is a square tower which cannot
have been built later than the time of the Plantagenets, while
the erection of the rest of the building may be assigned to the
reign of Henry VIII. The more recent part of the house, which
is interposed between the two towers we have named, has two

NORTH BIERLEY. 237
projecting bows with embayed windows, and between them is the
hall, an apartment ten yards long, on the windows of which are
numerous shields and coats of arms procured from a variety of
places by one of the owners, and here placed in promiscuous con
fusion. One of these bearings, beneath which are inscribed in
black letters " Our Lady the King's Mother," is supposed to
have referred to Lady Margaret of Richmond, mother to Henry
VII. If the reader will turn to page 56, he will find an account
of the apparition which is said to have displayed itself in this hall
to the Marquess of Newcastle, by which the sacking of Bradford
and the slaughter of the inhabitants, which were to have taken
place the next day, were prevented. The immense iron works at
Bowling, from their proximity to the great road between Brad
ford and Leeds, are generally known to travellers, and nothing
that we can say can add to the reputation of the inestimable
manufactures which are carried on in this extensive and impor
tant establishment. POPULATION OF BOWLING.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
2,055 2,226 3,579 5,958
NORTH BIERLEY is a very populous straggling manu
facturing village south east from Bradford, with a chapel of Ease,
of which an account will be given in another place. Bierley
Hall is remarkable as having been the residence of Richard
Richardson, M. D. whose learning and accomplishments procured
for him the acquaintance of many of the most distinguished
literary men of his day, and whose acquirements and character
will elevate him to a high rank in our list of the eminent indivi
duals produced by the district. This hall is also distinguished
as being the place where the second hothouse in the north of
England was constructed, and where one of the first cedars of
Lebanon ever brought to England was planted. This beautiful
tree has sprung from a seedling sent by the celebrated Sir Hans
Sloane to Dr. Richardson, and has long furnished a magnificent
specimen of its species. Considerable caution was at first used in
its culture, upon the supposition that the climate of England was
too cold for its prosperity. It was forgotten that the cedars of
Lebanon' grow in their indigneous condition and primitive station
at a very considerable elevation above the level of the sea, and

238 ECCLESHILL AND MANNINGHAM.
consequently in a temperature rather lower than otherwise than
that of this country. Two other cedars, but of inferior size, grow
in the immediate neighbourhood of this giant of the forest.
The most valuable of the literary treasures amassed by Dr.
Richardson were removed many years ago to Eshton, the seat of
his great grand-daughter Miss Currer, who has inherited not
only the property, but the taste of her relative.
POPULATION OF NORTH BIERLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
3,820 4,766 6,070 7,254
Of ECCLESHILL and MANNINGHAM it is unnecessary
to say more, than that they are both situated to the north and
north east of Bradford, that their inhabitants are generally active,
laborious, and prosperous manufacturers, and that in the neigh
bourhood of Leeds and Bradford, the great emporiums of the
cloth and stuff trades, they have every facility for advantageously
disposing of the produce of their indefatigable diligence.
POPULATION OF ECCLESHILL.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
1,351 1,608 2,176 2,570
POPULATION OF MANNINGHAM.
1,357 1,596 2,474 3,564
In order to subserve the convenience of reference, and to
exhibit clearly the rapid progress which the parish of Bradford
has made in population, we shall add in this place a statement of
the population of each of its townships besides those we have
mentioned, although not within the limits of our district.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Allerton,  809 1,093 1,488 1,733
Clayton,  2,040 2,469 3,609 4,469
Haworth,  3,164 3,971 4,668 5,835
Heaton,..  951 1,088 1,217 1,452
Horton,  3,549 4,423 7,192 10,782
Shipley,  1,008 1,214 1,606 1,926
Thornton,  2,474 3,016 4,100 5,968
Wilsden,  913 1,121 1,711 2,252
Total population of the parish of Bradford, 76,996.

239

CHAPTER V.
THE PARISHES OF OTLEY, HAREWOOD,
AND ADDLE.

OTLEY.
Lovely for situation indeed is Otley, in one of the most
delightful vallies in the kingdom, with the romantic elevation of
of Almscliff in the north, and the bold ridge of the Cheven in the
south, with a beautiful river meandering through luxurial corn
fields, verdant pastures, and fertile meadows, surrounded on every
side with numerous magnificent seats, with all their accompani
ments of woods and parks, with no chimnies of vast mills polluting
the atmosphere and defiling the prospect with their clouds of
sable vapour, and presenting in every direction a most animating
scene of agricultural opulence and industry. The valley of the
Wharf a little above Otley changes its character ; instead of the
rugged and romantic grandeur, the wildness and sublimity which
characterise the neighbourhood of Barden Tower and Bolton, it
here assumes a softened appearance of general fertility and
beauty, and the hills by which it is bounded gradually diminish
in elevation, and assume less marked and prominent outlines,
until they finally disappear in the great plain of the Ouse. Of
this locality the poet Gray has given the following account. " I
passed through Long Addingham ; Ilkley distinguished by a lofty
brow of loose rocks to the right ; Burley a neat and pretty vil
lage among trees ; on the opposite side of the river lay Middleton
Lodge belonging to a Catholic gentleman of that name ; Weston,
a venerable stone fabric with large offices of Mr. Vavasour, the
meadows in front gradually descending to the water, and behind
a great and shady wood ; Farneley, a place like the last but
larger, and rising higher by the side of the hill. Otley is a large
airy town, with clean but low rustic buildings, and a bridge over

240 OTLEY.
the Wharf. I went into its spacious Gothic church which has
been new roofed with a flat stucco ceiling ; in a corner is a
monument of Thomas Lord Fairfax and Helen Aske, his lady,
descended from the Cliffords and Latimers, as her epitaph says ;
the figures are ill cut, particularly his in armour but bareheaded
on the tomb. I take them to be the parents of the famous Sir
Thomas Fairfax*
Two derivations have been given of the name Otley ; it is
said that the plain and evident meaning of the word is, the field
of Oats, because oats were cultivated to a great extent in the
neighbourhood ; and it is also said that from the ancient spelling
of the word, Othelai, it must mean the field of Otho, a personal
appellation not uncommon in England both before and after the
Conquest. We confess that however inclined we may be to the
latter derivation, we think that the former has equal claims upon
reception, some of the words in Doomsday Book referring to this
parish and its neighbouring villages being so misspelt, as to prove
either that the names have undergone some very great mutation,
or that they were carelessly written. And here we shall deviate
from our usual plan by giving instead of the very words of the
long entry concerning this place in Doomsday Book, an accurate
analysis and illustration of it in the language of a distinguished
topographer and antiquary. " Othelai, its district and subordi
nates, described as extending in two directions nine miles, and
therefore abating irregularities containing eighty-one square
miles, contained the present parish of Otley, that of Weston, of
Guiseley, with the exception of the towns of Horsforth, Rawden,
and Yeadon, which are surveyed under the Terra Regis, and of
part of the parish of Ilkley, including Middleton and Stubham.
Hawkesworth and Menston are mentioned as Hewksworth and
Mensintune, and a place called Bicherton has perished. In the
Confessor's reign this entire district had been rated to the geld
at sixty ploughs, the annual value being ten pounds ; at the
latter end of the Conqueror's reign, and evidently in consequence
of his devastations, it was reduced to thirty-five ploughs, and by a
proportion not easily accounted for unless grain were greatly
depreciated, to the rent of three pounds. The Archbishop of
York was paramount lord of the whole ; but as there is no men
tion of a castle or its certain accompaniment the burgenses, he
appears to have had only a temporary manor house in Otley,
* Mason's Mem. of Gray, p. 379.

OTLEY. 241
where he had two carucates in demesne, together with five vil
lains and nine bordarii immediately dependent on himself. There
was a church and a priest, and one villain or free tenant holding
under him, and one plough. It was so nearly waste, that though
there might be thirty-five ploughs, yet thirteen only were in
actual use. The arable land is described, though probably with
no great exactness, as equal to four square miles, or two thousand
five hundred and forty acres. Now if by arable land be meant
the land actually under the plough, this divided by thirteen will
give somewhat more than one hundred and seventy acres to the
carucate ; if it be divided by thirty-five, the number of ploughs
which might be so occupied, it will reduce the carucate to about
seventy acres. Only four acres of meadow are accounted for, a
proof that cattle in general were not housed in winter. There
were five sochmen in the whole soke, who may be considered as
mesne lords holding under the archbishop, and having under
themselves four villanes and nine bordarii, that is free tenants of
different denominations perhaps, rather than widely different
ranks. To make up the account of eighty-one square miles,
abating for irregularities, we have four of land, only three of
moor, of (surely much too small a proportion) wood pasture about
eight miles ; in all fifteen ; so that there remains for brushwood
which had overgrown the country after it had been laid waste by
the Conqueror, sixty-six square miles with the same abatement,
in this single district. Had these incurious surveyors fortunately
exceeded their commission in a single point, we should probably
have been told that this fertile and beautiful district, thus
reduced to almost a state of nature, was beginning again to be
stocked by wolves and other beasts of prey.
We have given this admirable analysis of a very obscure, and
in fact unintelligible, notice in Doomsday Book, because it illus
trates some peculiarities in early national manners, and the
distinctions which prevailed among different occupiers of land ait
the time of the Conquest ; because it affords one of the most
impressive illustrations we meet with in the history of the dis
trict of the horrible effects of ambition and war ; and because, by
exhibiting the contrast between a region overrun with briars and
probably abounding with predatory animals, and a region now cul
tivated to the highest possible pitch of agricultural industry and
skill, it evinces the infinitely superior happiness, order, and intel
ligence of the times in which we live.
2 i

242 OTLEY.
That the spirit of improvement began at a very early period
to operate in the neighbourhood of Otley, is demonstrated by the
foundation and endowment of dependent churches, which would
scarcely have been attempted and could not have been accom.
plished, had not the population increased in numbers, and the
resources of the soil been elicited by active and pretty general
industry. A long chasm occurs after the Conquest in the history of
Otley, of which not a trace of information can be collected.
When Kirkby's Inquest was taken in 1287 it was returned that
the Archbishop of York held half a fee in Otley, and in the
Nomina Villarum, taken twenty-nine years afterwards, the Arch
bishop is also returned as lord. From that period to the present
day the Archbishops of York have retained their supremacy and
influence in the town, they exercise both a civil and ecclesiastical
authority, and they give their commissions to the magistrates
who administer justice in the locality. To these prelates the
manor was given in the first instance by King Athelstan.
Of the old manor house not a vestige remains, although the
site is still denoted by the name ; when the present mansion was
built, some very old and very strong foundations were taken up
which indubitably belonged to the ancient building. The kitchens
at this place were built by the celebrated Archbishop Bowet, who,
says Dr. Whitaker, " in consequence consumed at Otley some
portion of the fourscore tons of claret, with a proportionate quan
tity of other elements of hospitality, (the doctor should have
added debauchery,) which he is said to have annually expended."*
This bibacious prelate died 1423. Whether any of the Archbi
shops afterwards dispensed in this town the contents of their
wine cellars and larders, does not appear ; no doubt the hungry
and thirsty inhabitants of Otley regretted their departure, and
lamented that they were doomed to bear the trappings of archie-
piscopal authority, while they were deprived of all participation in
archiepiscopal luxury.
Of ancient buildings in Otley the only intelligence which can
be communicated is, that there was a hospital for lepers here in
the reign of Edward II. but the building has long since
disappeared. The most interesting circumstance connected with the history
* Loid and Elm. 191. Drake's Ebor. 440.

OTLEY. 243
of Otley is, that the woollen manufacture was once established
here ; and it must have been conducted to some considerable
extent, since it was fostered under the patronage of the Company
of Merchant Adventurers. Of this company or society some
account will be given in our Commercial History. It will be
sufficient here to state, that the English Association appears to
have been formed after the model of one of the same name which
existed at Bruges so early as the fourteenth century, and that
when a Board of Trade was established by James I. it obtained
by patent the sole commerce of the woollen manufacture. Otley
was no doubt the great emporium for the Craven wool, of which
large quantities were procured at a very early period. So early
as the reign of Edward I. wool in Craven was an article of com
merce, and sold for six pounds a sack of twenty-six stones, four
teen pounds to the stone. It may be mentioned as a curious fact,
that at the same time, and in the same country, the price of a
cow was only 7s- 4d. and that a labourer only received a penny a
day. We find that the woollen manufacturers at Otley had the
right of erecting their tenters before the premises in Cross Green.
But this town was most disadvantageously situated for the pur
poses of trade, the station was remote, there was a scanty supply
of fuel, the river was not navigable, and the whole manufacture
was soon removed to districts where there was a larger quantity
of coal and more eligible natural capabilities.
The market at Otley is of very ancient institution, and is one
of the best in the county. On each Friday, the market day, an
immense number of cattle, calves, and sheep are sold, principally
to the dealers and butchers of Leeds, and very considerable
quantities of corn are disposed of to supply the wants of the
populous manufacturing districts to the south. The fairs at
Otley are held on the first Monday after Angust 2nd, and on the
Friday between old and new Martinmas days. The scene on the
market days at Otley is usually of the most lively and animating
description, and a greater extent of business is transacted than in
any other town of similar extent in this part of the country. The
hill called the Chevin is the most remarkable object from the
town ; the name signifies " the ridge of hills ;" the road, which was
formerly very precipitous and dangerous, is now so much improved
as to have lost all its terrors to strangers ; and the prospect from
the summit, comprising the beautiful woods and park of Farneley
and the lovely fertility of the valley of the Wharf, is one of the

244 BRAMHOPE.
most striking and delightful in the kingdom. Some years ago one
of the most astonishing feats of muscular strength and agility was
performed on this hill which ever was accomplished, and which
redounded but little to the honour of the sanity of the agent— a
Leeds butcher, for a very trifling wager, literally hopped up the
whole acclivity, extending nearly a mile, without being killed by
his exertions, POPULATION OF OTLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
2,332 2,602 3,065 3,16}
Although Farneley is not included within the limits we
have assigned to our researches, we shall briefly allude to it as
one of the greatest ornaments of the country, and we shall deviate
from our usual order by giving some account of the family which
for so many generations has resided within its walls. The hall
stands on the declivity of the hill to the north of Otley, and com
mands a magnificent view of the Chevin and of the valley. The
old mansion was built in the time of Elizabeth, and the modern
house, which is distinguished by commodiousness and magnifi
cence, was built by Walter Ramsden Beaumont Hawksworth, of
Hawksworth, Esq. who assumed the name and arms of Fawkes,
pursuant to the will of Francis Fawkes, Esq. who, in 1786, left
him the estate. The family of the Fawkeses, we are informed,
bore the name de Farneley from the origin of local sirnames, but
Falcasius de Farneley in the reign of Henry III. had a son who
adopted the patronymic filius Falcasii or Fawkes — the son of
Fawkes — and transmitted the name to his posterity. We shall
only state further at present, that this family has long occupied
a station of eminence in the county, that it has intermarried with
some of the most honourable families, and that its members have
frequently discharged the functions of the High Shrievalty with
credit to themselves and advantage to the public. The late
Walter Ramsden Fawkes, Esq. was elected member for the
county, and was distinguished by the liberality of bis principles,
the power of his eloquence, and the fervour of his patriotism.
BRAMHOPE.
This township derives its name from " the narrow valley ''
or hope of Braam, a personal name, which, says the author of

POOLE. 245
Loidis and Elmete,* " enters into the composition of several other
local appellations in this country, as Bramham,* Bramley, &c."
This place is mentioned in the following terms in Doomsday
Book, among the lands of Gislebert Tison. " In Bramhop, Ulchil
had eight carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to four
ploughs. The same now has it of Gislebert, but it is waste.
Coppice wood half a mile long and two quarentens broad. The
whole manor one mile long and one broad ; value in King
Edward's time fifty shillings." Bramhope then did not form a
part of the possessions of the Archbishops of York, and though
no mention is made in the notice above, of any inhabitants, and
though the whole township was in a state of devastation, the
land would seem in the time of the Confessor to have been both
cultivated and productive. After various changes, which cannot
easily be described, and which are in themselves very unimport
ant, the manor of Bramhope was purchased of Henry, Earl of
Cumberland, by the Dineleys, with whom it has since remained,
and of whom an account will be found in another place. Bram
hope will occupy a rather prominent place in our ecclesiastical
history, as furnishing almost the only example which can be
discovered of the establishment and endowment of an episcopal
chapel during the government of the parliament and of Crom
well. POPULATION OF BRAMHOPE.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
261 318 366 359
POOLE.
Of this chapelry no further account can be given in this
place, than that it is mentioned in Doomsday Book by the name
of Pouele, as being part of the possessions of the Archbishop of
York. Its chapel we shall elsewhere refer to.
POPULATION OF POOLE,
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
182 204 294 315
We lament that the adherence to our plan which it is neces
sary for us to observe, that the present work may not exceed the
bulk which is assigned to it, will not allow us to refer to several
•Loid. and Elm. 197- f Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 193.

246 OTLEY.
interesting objects which the extensive parish of Otley presents
to topographical investigation. Esholt, famed for its nunnery
founded in the twelfth century — Baildon, a populous and thriving
manufacturing village— Menston, situated in rural seclusion on
the eastern declivity of the mountain of Rumbold's Moor— Ilkley,
the Olicana of the Romans, of which we have already spoken]
now rising into the prosperity of a frequented watering-place!
and celebrated for the extreme coldness and consequent utility
of its remarkable spring— Denton, adorned with the elegant seat
of the Ibbetsons, and formerly the residence of the Fairfaxes,
whose most distinguished hero, Sir Thomas Fairfax, has occu
pied so much attention in the preceding history— Burley, sin
gularly beautiful in situation and appearance— and Weston, with
its interesting hall, the seat of the ancient and respectable family
of the Vavasours, are all beyond the limits of our district, and
whatever may be our reluctance, we are compelled to pass them
by without further observation. The manners of the residents
in this parish, almost entirely rural, are far more polished and
pleasant than those of the inhabitants of the districts to the
south and south west; and though their general information
may not be so extensive, and although their intellectual faculties
may not be so improved by the constant exercise which is
involved in manufacturing and commercial pursuits, they are as
respectable and as useful a body of individuals as can be found in
the county, and contribute by their general spirit and deport
ment to render their neighbourhood as agreeable for a visit, and
as eligible for a permanent residence, as can be found in any pro
vince of the kingdom.
We may mention, in closing this account of the neighbourhood
of Otley, that the impetuous Wharf, swollen by tempests among
the mountains along which it flows, has frequently rolled down
such a vast volume of water as to produce immense mischief in
the valley and the town. The most tremendous flood ever known
at Otley took place in the year 1673, when considerable property
was destroyed, and houses, cattle, implements of husbandry, and
agricultural produce, were irrecoverably swept away.
In the year 1826, one of the most singular scenes was
presented in this neighbourhood which was ever witnessed in
England. A long drought and unusually sultry weather had
prevailed to such a degree, that even in the midst of the hay
harvest prayers vere offered up in the churches and other places

OTLEY. 247
of worship for rain. In the month of July, it was discovered by
vast clouds of smoke darkening the atmosphere and exciting
astonishment from afar, that several of the vast moors which
cover the hills of this district were on fire, and there is little
doubt that the astounding conflagration was produced by light
ning. Hawksworth Moor, Rombalds Moor, Burley Moor, and
other tracts of a similar description, were all at the same time in
a state of ignition, and the flames and vapours presented an
appearance which had all the characters of sublimity. On one
memorable day, the heavens were obscured with lurid clouds, the
smoke rolled in dense volumes into the vallies, the inhabitants
were filled with consternation, and, unable to penetrate the dark
ness which superseded the light of day, they began, as is usual in
such cases, to entertain the most dismal apprehensions. After a
tremendous elemental war, torrents of rain extinguished the fires,
the tempest dispelled both the vapours and the fears of the peo
ple, but a considerable property was destroyed. The awful
appearance of the heavens and the earth on this portentous occa
sion, has been described to the writer in the most vivid colours by
the persons who witnessed it, and reminded those of them who had
been in other zones, of the most appalling phenomena of tropical
storms. *
* It is a curious fact that Leland, and after him Camden, have barely men
tioned the town of Otley. This can only be accounted for by supposing that
in their time it was a mere appendage to the archiepiscopal residence, to the
church, and to the habitations of the surrounding gentry. Leland contents
himself by simply saying, " Seven miles above Harewood is Oteley where there
is a bridge of stone over the Wharf." Lei. 1. 48. Camden says, " lower down
lies Otley, a town belonging to the Archbishop of York, remarkable for nothing
but the high cliff, called the Cheven, under which it is situate." The ridge of
a mountain is called Cheven in British, whence that continued ridge of moun
tains in France which formerly used the same language with the Britons was
named Geneva and Gehenna (theCevenues.) Cam. III. 7.

248

THE PARISH OF ADDLE.

Of Addle, as a Roman station, we have already given an
extended description to which we must refer our readers, (see
p. 20.) There is little doubt but that the commonly received
etymology of the word Adhill, or the hill of Ada, the first Saxon
possessor, is correct. In Doomsday Book Addle is reckoned as
part of the lands of the Earl of Morton, and the following account
is given of it. " In Adell the same Alward had one manor of one
carucate and a half to be taxed where there may be two ploughs.
Richard has it, and it is waste. Wood pasture one mile long and
one broad. The whole manor one mile and a half long and one
mile broad. Value in King Edward's time twenty shillings. It
is now waste."* It appears that whatever might have been the
condition of this neighbourhood in the time of the Romans and of
the Saxons, it was reduced to a state of utter desolation by the
Normans, and, with the exception of Arthington, shortly to be
mentioned, to have been entirely destitute of inhabitants. It is
melancholy to refer to a place where Roman arts and civilization
were cherished, where Roman power and magnificence were dis
played, and where Saxon devotion has reared one of the most
exquisitely beautiful monuments to be found in the British
empire, and to perceive that there was not one single person to
be found, at the period of which we are speaking, to testify to its
ancient grandeur or to attempt the improvement of its actual
capabilities. Our reference to the authority of Doomsday Book
will not be complete unless we give another notice from that
valuable compilation, of a manor adjoining to that of Addle, and
which contained no doubt the site of the ancient Roman town
whose name it barbarously perpetuates. " In Burghduru the
same Alward had one manor without a hall, of two carucates to
be taxed and there may be two ploughs. Richard has it. Mea
dow and coppice wood three acres. The whole manor four
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 85.

ADDLE. 249
quarentens long and the same broad. Value in King Edward's
time twenty shillings. It is now waste."* The name given in
this passage is a corruption of Burgodunum, the Roman appella
tion of the place Of which we have spoken in the place alluded to
above. It would seem from the erection of the church, that the
eonditiofr of Addle began to improve soon after the Conquest.
For without invading our ecclesiastical department we may
observe, that notwithstanding the absurd and oft repeated suppo
sitions that this most remarkable edifice was of Saxon or even of
Roman architecture, it is most satisfactorily proved by a grant
still extant of William Painell of lands in Addle to the monks of
Kirkstall, that the church was built about the commencement of
the twelfth century. Arid that Burghduru, at the time of the
erection of this church, was a populous village, is almost certain
from the situation of the church itself, at the southern extremity
of the parish, which would hardly have been selected for the
building had it not been to afford convenience to the inhabitants.
The charter of William Painell, which has been preserved by
Stevens, runs in these words, " William Painell gives and grants
to God, St. Mary, and the monks of Kirkstall Abbey, the lands
which I gave to them in pure alms, &c. in the parish of Adell — "
viz. the lands which the villanes of the same parish gave to the
church at Adell when dedicated throughout all the parish. The
possessions of these monks rapidly extended. The account of
this progress, as it is given by the same author, will be interest
ing to the antiquarian reader. A family of the name of Mustell,
it appears, held Addle under the Painells. By a charter without
date, but certainly very early, Roger Mustell gave to the house at
Kirkstall the barony of Cookridge, or as it is spelt Cokryge, with
the mill and all other appurtenances. William Mustell, son of
Roger, gave to the same house the entire soke of Adell with the
advowson of the church and all the services of the freeholders in
the soke with wards, reliefs, &c. — half a knights fee from the
lordship of Arthington, from the lordship of Brerehaugh, &c."
Several other grants are there enumerated, from which it appears
that nearly the whole parish ultimately became the property, or
was under the controul, of this affluent religious incorporation.
There is one curious notice in these grants which will be
rather interesting to the reader. It has been already stated that
the vicinity of Leeds abounds in excellent springs, most of which,
* Bawdwen's Doomsday" Book, see p. 241. f Mon. Ang. iii. 46.
2k

250 COOKRIDGE.
according to the superstitious custom of the age, were dedicated
to some patron saint, and we have already seen that some of them
bore the name of St. Helena. A spring at Addle, which is still
held in deserved estimation, bears the same name and was dedi
cated to the same saint. " From Andrew," says the charter,
" the son of Henry de Adyll, they received a rent of two-pence for
an acre and a half lying ad fontem Sc'e Elene."
We have described at some length the interesting Roman
remains which have been discovered at Addle, and which prove
its former importance and perhaps magnificence, (see p. 20). In
the lapse of long ages that importance has entirely disappeared,
Addle now scarcely deserves the name of a village, but it is one
of the most delightful places in the kingdom, the glebe was beau
tifully laid out by Mr. Hardcastle, the last incumbent but one,
the church yard is kept in the most excellent order, and the
whole scene presents a picture of rural tranquillity and seclusion
strikingly opposed to the bustle of that manufacturing district on
whose very verge it is situated.
COOKRIDGE.
This place is mentioned in Doomsday Book in the following
terms. " In Cucherie, the same Alward had one manor of three
carucates to be taxed, where there may be now two ploughs.
Richard has it. Wood pasture three quarentens long and the
same broad. The whole manor half a mile long and three qua
rentens broad. Value in King Edwards time twenty shillings.
It is now waste."* The reader is referred to p. 21 for an account
of the antiquities at this place. In the time of Alexander, the
first abbot of Kirkstall, Cookridge became part of the possessions
of that Abbey, and continued to be its property until the dissolu
tion. No further particulars worthy of repetition can be recorded
concerning it. Cookridge Hall, the seat of Richard Wormald,
Esq. is most beautifully situated and is one of the most desirable
residences in the district. Cookridge has been mentioned by
Thoresby as celebrated in his time for the noble and pleasant
walks in geometrical lines, constructed by Mr. Kirke, one of the
fellows of the Royal Society, at that time the owner of the estate.
It would indeed be difficult to conceive of a place more desirable
for the residence of a philosopher, a lover of nature, or a poet.
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 85.

BREAREY, ECCUP, AND ARTHINGTON. 251
The only drawback from the quiet of the hall is, that it is too
near the high road from Leeds to Otley. After the decease of
Mr. Kirk it was purchased by Sheffield Duke of Buckingham,
and afterwards passed to the collateral line of Sir John Sheffield.
The wood through which Mr. Kirk, with strange want of taste,
drew his geometrical lines, has long since been permitted to
assume its natural appearance. The modern improvements about
the place have greatly contributed to its beauty.
BREAREY
Is a little hamlet formerly spelt Brerehagh, signifying " the
briar hedge." It is only remarkable for having given name to a
very ancient family which resided here some centuries, but which
has long since disappeared.
ECCUP
Is another small hamlet, of which we can only say that it is
described in Doomsday Book, as among the possessions of the Earl
of Morton in the following terms. " In Echope, the same Alward
had one manor without a hall, of one carucate to be taxed, which
one plough may till. Richard has there three acres of meadow.
Wood not pasture three quarentens long and two broad. The
whole manor one mile long and half a mile broad. Value in King
Edwards time ten shillings. It is now waste."* The name Eccup
means " the narrow valley of oaks." It formerly belonged to the
Arthingtons, but is now the property of the Earl of Harewood.
The single reference to this place we have met with is, that
Frebarn de Ecop gave to the monks at Kirkstall one acre of land,
and that a person designated Richard Attesche gave two oxgangs
in"Ecopp." ARTHINGTON.
Whatever maybe the rural seclusion of Addle and the plea
santness of Cookridge, Arthington exceeds them both in pic
turesque beauty, looking upon the valley of the Wharf, and
commanding a truly lovely prospect. At the time of the Dooms
day survey, Arthington belonged to the Earl of Morton. It is
mentioned in the following terms. " In Hardinetone, Alward
had one manor of three carucates, and two oxgangs and a half to
be taxed, where there may now be three ploughs. Richard has
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, ub. sup.

252 ARTHINGTON.
it of the Earl. There is there one viljane ploughing with two
oxen, and there are two acres of meadow. Wood pasture two
quarentens long and two broad. The whole mapor one mile long
and four quarentens broad. Value in King Edward's time thirty
shillings, npw five shillings."* Can there be a more striking and
melancholy illustration of the dreadful desolation to which this
part of the country was reduced in the time qf the Conqueror,
than the fact that in one complete parish, containing highly valu
able and productive land, and displaying every capability for the
support of a numerous population, mention is made of only one
inhabitant ploughing with two oxen ! This is a circumstance
particularly deserving of record— rsucli are the results of ambitiop
and war !
Arthington was the seat of the very ancient family of the
same name, distinguished by their superstitious reverence for the
papal ecclesiastics, and their absurd and lavish munificence to
religious houses. The description of this family by Dr. Wh'ta-
kev is, so truly characteristic and amusing that it would be
unpardonable not to extract it. That learned topographer says—
" The Arthingtons in the twelfth century wpre a devout and
munificent family, for besides their benefactions to Kirkstall
Abbey, already mentioned, in which by a disinterested generosity
they preferred to see the flocks of the religious grazing on the
brow in front of the manor house rather than their own, they
amortized "another portion of their demesnes for the endowment of
a house of nuns." t What high and holy qualities has the doctor
here attributed to this family— devotion— munificence — and dis
interested generosity? And why are they thus applauded?
Because they were so strangely besotted as to alienate their own
lands to lazy monks and card playing J nuns so completely, that
the very fields they beheld, and the cattle that grazed in front of
their own mansion, they could not call their own. Truly it was,
that in the estimation of Dr. Whitaker, attachment to an esta
blished church covered a multitude of sins. About the middle of
the twelfth century, Piers de Arthington gave a site and demesnes
for a house of Cluniac or Benedictine nuns, and the gift was
augmented by Serlo his son. Of the dimensions, of the appear
ance, of the materials of this nunnery, not a single trace can be
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, ut. sup. f Loid and Elm. 181.
X It will soon be seen that this appellation is not misapplied,

ARTHINGTON. 253
found, not a fragment has been suffered to remain. There is not
a stone of any description to be found which can be concluded to
have belonged to this ecclesiastical structure. From an entry in
an award to which we shall shortly allude, it appears that there
must have been some confusion when this nunnery was founded
"-the award speaking of that foundation in connection with
" heynous and horrible curseing of disturbance of the said nown-
ree." It is impossible to ascertain to what circumstance this
curious phraseology refers. We shall mention one fact in the
history of this place which certainly affords an entertaining spe
cimen of the ideas which were entertained six hundred years ago,
of the blessedness attached to donations on behalf of religious
houses. The celebrated Alice de Romille, not content with the
foundation and endowment of Bolton Priory, conferred Upon the
nuns of Arthington one half of her lands in Helthwaite, and the
liberty of fattening forty hogs in her wood of Swinden during
harvest. And what was to be her reward for all this liberality ?
she was permitted to nominate a nun ! — .a proof that a nun was
esteemed in that age to be, if we may use such an expression, the
highest style of woman, the most happy as well as the most holy
of her «ex.
Concerning the recreations of the nuns of Arthington, some
very curious particulars were communicated by the Rev, Mr.
Adamson to the author of Loidis and Elmete. Although it does
not form any part of our object in this work to meddle with
such frivolous matters as these, we shall in this instance deviate
from our rule. A box of what may be called ancient cards has
been preserved, which are traditionally said to have belonged to
the nuns of this place. They consist of thin circular pieces of
beech, about four inches in lateral diameter, painted with various
devices, and each inscribed in old English characters with some
moral sentence. It is supposed that they were played in the
manner of cards, and that their number was originally twelve.
The reader will be able to ascertain the character of the inscrip
tions by the following examples : —
Thy Love that thou to one haste lentt.
In Labour loste thy Tyme was spent.
Thy Foos mutche griefe to the have wroughte,
And thy Destruction have they soughte.
Thy hautie mynde doth cause ye smarte,
And makes the sleape with carefull harte.

254 ARTHINGTON.
In Godlie trade ronne well thy race,
And from the poore tome nott thy face.
That we may do full justice to the subject, we must remark
that our antiquary has ludicrously assigned with all becoming
gravity some most ponderous reasons for believing that these
cards did not belong to nuns. First — he says that one of the
inscriptions is addressed " my sonne." If all that we have heard
of the morals of these pious sisters be true, this can be no insu
perable objection. Again, he says that there is not a tincture of
popery about them, and that the metre and language are those
of the earliest psalms — these are better, but still by no means
conclusive reasons. — And the last is the most extraordinary of
the whole. — " They speak of the temptations of the world, and
particularly of disappointed love." Now we know of no two
causes which are so likely to produce the madness which induces
its unhappy subject to hide in the cell of the recluse, as those
which are thus mentioned. At any rate, these cards form a
curious relic, and the reader will not be displeased that we have
alluded to them. But to return to our history.
The Arthingtons were not all of them so devoted to the
interests of the papal hierarchy as the founders of their family,
and they probably repined at the prodigality which had alien
ated the fairest portion of their patrimony in favour of ecclesi
astics. One of them, John Arthington, in the reign of Henry
the Sixth, attempted to regain possession of the demesnes of the
nunnery, and commenced proceedings accordingly. The matter
was referred to John Thwaites of Denton, a lawyer of consider
able reputation in this part of the country at that period, and he
published an award to which we have just referred, but which
we cannot insert, confirming the nuns in the possession of their
estates. On the dissolution, when Elizabeth Arthington with
nine nuns surrendered the nunnery, A. D. 1540, the site was
granted to Archbishop Cranmer. That site is still pointed out
by a building now occupied as a farm house, which has long
excited the attention of the few visitors who have repaired to
this remote place, and which on the front door-way bears the
date of 1585. There can be no doubt that this refers to the
foundation of the house. The hall at Arthington, now the seat
of W. G. Davy, Esq. is large, well built, and stands on a truly
beautiful elevation on the river Wharf.

ARTHINGTON. 255
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF ADDLE.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Addle,  ~\
Bre0Sfe:.::::::::::::f606 ™ «» ™3
Eccup,  j
Arthington,  360 344 329 360

256

THE PARISH OF HAREWOOD.

The history of this most delightful and elegant village fur
nishes some highly interesting facts and narrations, and brings
us into immediate contact with some of the most eminent men
England has ever produced. The derivation of the name is
obvious to every reader. In Doomsday Book it is enumerated
among the lands of the King. — " In Harewoode with berewics,
Tor, Sprot, and Grim, had ten carucates to be taxed. Land to
five ploughs. Forty shillings." * By whom the castle was built
it is impossible to ascertain ; it most probably, however, owes
its origin to one of the Romilles, and was undubitably erected
soon after the Conquest. William de Meschines, brother of
Ralph Earl of Chester, and Lord of Coupland in the county of
Cumberland, married, about 1120, Cecilia Romille, lady of Skip-
ton, Harewood, &c. and obtained through her possession of the
castle at the latter place. Their daughter Avicia de Romille
married William de Courci, Baron of Stoke Courci in the county
of Somerset, and thus conveyed Harewood Castle to that great
family. Their second son William de Courci came into posses
sion of the castle ; but his only son dying without issue, Hare
wood was conveyed by the marriage of Alicia de Courci to the
Fitz Geralds. Margery Fitzgerald, who was given in marriage
to Baldwin de Redvers in the reign of King John, took the
estate to the family of her husband. Upon the failure of this
family the castle passed to the De Lisles, then in the reign of
Edward III. to the Aldboroughs, then to the Rythers, to the
Gascoignes, to the Wentworths, and the succession of the posses
sors from the time when the castle and estate were purchased by
Sir John Cutler, we shall describe in the order of our history.
The castle itself must have been a very remarkable edifice ; it
was a strange deviation from the general custom of the Normans
in building their stupendous fortifications ; was never surrounded
Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 34.

HAREWOOD. 257
with exterior defences, it had no ballium, it had no keep, and it
derived all its security as a fortification from the immense
strength and thickness of its own walls. These circumstances
have given a peculiar character to the castle, and must have
materially diminished the comfort and convenience of the inhabit
ants. In order to subserve their security, the windows of the
great hall have been made so narrow as to resemble mere loop
holes ; and on account of there being no inner yard or area to
which windows might open without the danger of admitting the
missiles of an enemy, every apartment of the building is destitute
of comfort and of light. A recess in the west wall has exercised
the ingenuity of antiquarian observers — some of them insisting
that it was intended for a tomb, and others that it was nothing
more than an ancient sideboard. When doctors differ, who is to
decide ? We can only observe that the former supposition is out
of the question, the latter is not exactly consistent with the
manners of the middle ages, so that after all we must leave the
question just where we found it. Over the principal entrance,
which is to the north east, are the shields of Aldborough and
Baliol, with the motto in old English characters, vat sal be sal.
Gough says of this castle, and his accurate description renders
every other unnecessary, " The castle, which Mr. King refers to
the time of Edward I. and III. stands on the north side of a
triple square entrenchment on the hill sloping down to the river.
The innermost vallum on the south and west side is entire and
high. It consists of a square centre, a north wing oblong, and
two square towers at the south east and south west corners, all
of four stones." He then refers to the arch in the hall upon
which we animadvert above, and says, " The north apartment
serves as a kitchen, and the great chimney yet remains. On the
east side is a porch, having a double entrance defended by a port
cullis  The room over this porch was supposed to be the
chapel in the time of Richard II." * It is impossible to give
any adequate idea of the internal arrangements of this building
without the aid of a plan ; we can only observe, therefore, that
the ruins form a very imposing object, the massy walls still
remain in tolerable preservation, no inconsiderable proportion of
them are covered with beautiful ivy, the situation of the castle
on the brow of a hill sloping to the north is both commanding
and pleasing, and the visitor looking to the north and north east,
* Gough, iii. 50.
2i

258 HAREWOOD.
beholds one of the most enchanting prospects which England can
afford. Harewood castle is indubitably the most interesting
remnant of feudal times remaining in the district.
Although the lords of Harewood castle, like all the feudal
barons, no doubt had their petty feuds, their oppressions, and
their crimes, only one event is recorded of them which interests
from its historic importance. When Edward Baliol, that puppet
of royalty, was driven out of Scotland by an indignant and
patriotic people, he found a refuge at Harewood Castle, and the
placing of his shield over the principal entrance was no doubt a
compliment paid to the fugitive monarch by Sir William de
Aldborough, the rebuilder of the castle. This fortress seems to
have been in too dismantled a state in the time of the civil wars
to be of use to either party as a place of defence. And when in
1656 the manor of Gawthorpe, and the estate connected with it
were advertised to be sold, the building is thus described : " The
castle of Harewood decayd, yet the stones thereof being much
ashler, and the timber that is left fit for building an hansommer
house, and may save a deal of charges in the stone work, or els if
allowed to tenants of Harwood toune for repayres and building,
would bee very usefull and necessary and servicable for that pur
pose, considering it is a market toune, therefore the castle may
be well adjudged to be worth thirty pound. There is belonging
to the same a very large barne." Old Camden thus communi
cates the result of his researches about Harewood : " Afterwards
the river runs between banks of limestone by Harewood, where I
saw a handsome and well fortified castle, which has often changed
its lords by the vicissitudes of time. It formerly belonged to the
Curceys, but came by their heiress Alice to Warin Fitzgerald
who married her, whose daughter and coheiress Margery was
given in marriage with the fine estate belonging to her to
Baldwin de Rivers, Earl of Devon, who died before his father ;
afterwards to Falcasius de Brent by favour of King John, for his
good services in pillaging. But upon the death of Isabella de
Rivers without issue, this castle fell to Robert de Lisle, son of
Warin, as kinsman and coheir ; lastly by the family of Ald-
borrough it came to the Rithers. Nor must I forget that near
this place is Gawthorpe, whence sprung the family of the Gas-
coign's, from Gascoigne in France, rendered very eminent for.
their antiquity and valour in these parts." *
* Camden, iii. 7.

HAREWOOD. 259
Gawthorpe, which was situated in what is now the park at
Harewood House, was never a distinct manor, although it gave
name to a family which was seated there from a very early
period. The heiress of the Gawthorpes conveyed the estate to
the Gascoignes, and of this family was that celebrated Judge
Gascoigne, who had the courage to commit to prison Henry V.
when Prince of Wales, for insulting the majesty of the bench on
behalf of one of his profligate companions. The Gascoignes
appear to have superintended their affairs at Gawthorpe with so
much prudence and success, that they were enabled to supplant
the Rythers at the castle, and to unite into one possession the
two adjoining estates. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Mar
garet, the only daughter and heiress of William Gascoigne, mar
ried Thomas Wentworth, of Wentworth Woodhouse, and their son,
Sir Thomas Wentworth, possessed the Lordship of Gawthorpe,
Harewood, Wike, East Keswick, &c. We have already (see
p. 48,) stated how the celebrated son of this Sir Thomas,
elevated to the peerage by the title of Lord Strafford, employed
himself when residing at this beautiful house, before he commenced
that career of ambition which was terminated on the scaffold.
After his execution, the estate was advertised for sale, and was
bought, with Ledstone, by Sir John Cutler and Sir John Lewis ;
on the partition of the purchase, Gawthorpe became the share of
Cutler, who here displayed his avarice in every possible form of
parsimonious meanness, and whose actions of despicably sordid
baseness, are still commemorated in the traditions of the country.
This man resided at Gawthorpe with a single servant, he regarded
the estate only as the means of filling his coffers, he was more
than once in danger of his life from plunderers, and left behind
him a name which may be associated with those of Elwes,
Dancer, and other similar disgraces to humanity. When this
Cutler died he left his estates in the following manner — they were
devised in the first instance to Elizabeth, wife of John Robarts,
afterwards Earl of Radnor, and in the event of the failure of issue
to a relation, John Boulter, Esq. who took possession of the estate
in 1696. Mr. Boulter was a careless extravagant spendthrift, he
soon squandered away his property, and his trustees sold Hare
wood, in 1721, to Henry Lascelles, Esq. the father of the first
Lord Harewood.
Of the old house at Gawthorpe the following particulars are
collected from the advertisement to which we have before alluded,

260 HAREWOOD.
and as this was the identical place where Strafford resided, the
description cannot but be interesting. The original hall, it seems,
had been very considerably improved either by Strafford or his
father, hence we are told, there were four rooms in the old build
ing all wainscotted, that in the new building there were five large
rooms all wainscotted and " collored like walnut tree, the mate-
rialls of which house if sould would raise £500 at least. The
park which surrounded the hall was extensive, and in former
times had been well stocked with deer — " a parklike place it is,"
says the old writer. The following descriptive paragraph will not
only shew to us the scenes in which Strafford, (according to his
letter which we have quoted p. 48,) took so much delight, but
will also give to us some accurate idea of the mode of ornamental
gardening which prevailed in the middle of the seventeenth cen
tury. " There is att Gawthorpe a garden and orchards about
three acres in compasse, fenced round with high stone walls, the
garden towards the north side hath four walls lying one above
another, both the garden and orchard well planted with great
store of fruit trees of severall kinds."
When the place was inherited by Edwin Lascelles, Esq. the
first Lord Harewood, he determined to avail himself of the natu
ral character of the land, to render his estate one of the most
convenient, one of the most productive, and one of the most beau
tiful in the kingdom. He fixed upon a sheltered site a little
above the old hall at Gawthorpe for a magnificent mansion, and he
commenced those improvements in planting, in laying out the
park, and in other alterations, which have rendered this one of
the most splendid ornaments of the county. The house was built
by the late Mr. Muschamp, of Harewood, under the direction of
Mr. Adams, of London, and Mr. Carr, of York — the quadrangle
of the stables was built by Sir William Chambers — the building
is decorated with all the ornaments of Corinthian architecture ; it
is two hundred and forty-eight feet long and eighty-four feet
wide"; it consists of a centre and two wings, with a truly magnifi
cent portico ; the numerous and splendid apartments are finished
with equal costliness and taste ; the ceilings of many of them are
beautifully executed from the designs of the first British and
Italian artists ; the paintings, the busts, and the other usual arti
cles to be found in a nobleman's collection, are very numerous and
valuable ; and the whole mansion corresponds with its dignity as
the residence of one of the first families in the county. The

HAREWOOD. 261
grounds were laid out by the celebrated Brown, or Capability
Brown as he was called, and the whole expense of forming the
lake and planting the park, &c. amounted to more than sixteen
thousand pounds. One very great improvement was effected in
this domain by the late Lord Harewood. The turnpike-road
which formerly ran between the house and the castle has been
diverted, and the latter is now included within the domain. The
walks about the mansion are exquisitely beautiful, and the whole
scene is such as England only can produce.
In the feudal times there was seldom a castle without a town
protected by its vicinity, and dependent upon its lords. There
is little doubt that the town of Harewood existed soon after the
castle, and there is reason to believe that it was formerly much
more extensive and important than it is now. In 1633, Lord
Strafford obtained a charter for a market to be held here every
Monday, with two annual fairs, and a fortnight fair to be held in
summer. At the same time there was a tolbooth or court house
under which were six shops for general sales, and a shambles for
butchers. These facts argue the existence of a far more numer
ous population than can be found at present. The land in the
neighbourhood of the village was not entirely cultivated ; there
were several large commons, and marshes frequented by wild
fowl ; there were two large stanks or ponds, replete with fish,
one at Hollin Hall and the other at Gawthorpe ; and the timber
was very abundant and valuable. The appearance of Harewood
has been wonderfully changed since that periodj the population
has indubitably diminished, ajl the old cottages and other build
ings have been pulled down, the houses have been erected upon a
handsome scale and with a uniform elevation, the number of inns
or public houses has been reduced from six to one, and an air of
aristocratic dignity is breathed over the whole place, which is
seldom to be inhaled in England. The church will be described
in the next book.
The following townships are either partially or wholly included
in the parish of Harewood. East Keswick, Dun Keswick, Wike,
Weeton, Weardley, and Wigton, to which the village of Alwoodley
must be added. The following notices of these villages are given
in Doomsday Book. " In Chesinc (Keswick) Tor had five caru
cates to be taxed. Land to three ploughs. Twenty shillings.
In Wie (Wike) Ligulf and Glunier had six carucates to be taxed.
Land to three ploughs. Eighteen shillings. In Alunoldelie

262 HAREWOOD.
(Alwoodley) Roschil had five carucates to be taxed. Land to
three ploughs. Twenty shillings." These were all included iu
the lands of the King. Weardley and Weeton were part of the
lands of Gospatric, and are thus described. " In Widetun
(Weeton) Gospatric two carucates of land and a half to be taxed.
Land to two ploughs. There are now two villanes and one
bordar with one plough, and it pays seven shillings. In Wartle
(Weardley) Ligulf and Saxulf had five carucates of land to be
taxed. Gospatrie now has it and it is waste. Value in King
Edwards time twenty-five shillings. Half a mile long and half
broad."* From these accounts it appears that the whole popula
tion of these districts, consisted only of three families — to such a
state of desolation it had been reduced. This part of the district
is very thinly peopled at the present day, no manufactories of any
description are to be found within its boundaries, its inhabitants
are entirely agricultural, and both in manner, dialect, appearance,
and habits, they are astonishingly different from their neighbours
a few miles to the south.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF HAREWOOD.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Alwoodley,  143 132 142 142
Dunkeswick,  218 238 257 261
Harewood,  707 771 849 894
East Keswick,  535 267 296 365
Weardley  L39 190 191 169
Weeton,  237 2*97 310 322
Wigton  134 171 164 168
Wike,  59 51 139 142
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 34, 218, 240.

263

CHAPTER V.
THE PARISHES OF BARDSEY, COLLINGHAM, BERWICK-IN-ELMET,
WHITKIRK, LEDSHAM, KIPPAX, AND SWILLINGTON.

BARDSEY.

This is a quiet and perfectly rural village, remote from the
turmoil of the busy world, and presenting one of the most perfect
pictures of seclusion the whole district can afford. Whoever
wishes to live without noise, without tumult, without any signs
of thriving traffic, or numerous population, let him go to Bardsey,
and he will find a place in perfect accordance with his wishes.
Although we shall be opposing the conjectures of some of our
eminent antiquaries, we cannot but assert the probability that the
place obtained its name from the British bards who might make
this one of their meeting places. The Saxon termination of the
word, ea, may, we are aware, be adduced to overturn this state
ment ; yet it is not improbable that it might have been
added in the course of years by the mere habit of popular pro
vincial pronunciation. It does not seem to us correct and con
sistent always to decide in a sweeping and authoritative manner,
that the first syllables of these local designations were the names
of the first Saxon proprietors of the places. And we may indulge
in the belief that where this peaceful village now stands in solitary
pleasantness, the voice of measured declamation, and the wild
shouts of enthusiastic fury were heard, and Druids performed
their horrible rites, while British warriors prepared for expedi
tions of plunder, or the sanguinary contests of civil war.
Bardsey was unquestionably a place of considerable consequence
in Saxon times, but whether the immense earthworks and fortifi
cations which we have already pointed out to our readers, (see
p. 34,) are the fragments of a royal or of an ealdorman's resi
dence, whether they included the whole population within their

264 BARDSEY.
circumference, or were surrounded by the wretched hovels in
which the Saxon peasantry were accustomed to dwell, it is impos
sible to conjecture. It is most likely that this was the residence
not of a Northumbrian monarch, but of some powerful Saxon
Chieftain, and that there was a village, or a town, in the imme
diate vicinity of his abode.
It is thus described in Doomsday Book among the lands of the
King. " In Bereleseie, Ligulf had two carucates to be taxed.
Land to one plough. Twenty shillings."* Not long after the
Conquest, Bardsey became the property of the Mowbray family,
one of whom bestowed it upon the monks of Kirkstall Abbey, in
the time of Alexander, the first abbot of that monastery. Some
transactions, relative to this place, afterwards occurred, which
will shew how desirous some of the early English monarchs were
to circumscribe the already overgrown possessions of the eccle
siastics. Henry II. having been offended with Roger de Mowbray,
seized some of his lordships in this part of the country, and among
the rest Bardsey, which he afterwards granted in exchange to
Adam de Brus. The monks immediately raised an immense out
cry against the King, but all their vociferations were treated with
contempt. When John ascended the throne, the abbott of Kirk
stall employed the interest of his patron, Roger de Lacy, to
recover possession of the lands, but John only partially complied,
by granting, for a fee farm rent of ninety pounds, a demise of the
disputed manors.t Bardsey, after the dissolution, was retained
by the crown, until in the first year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth
it was granted, with Collingham and Micklethwaite, to Henry
Carey Lord Hunsdon ; his grandson, in 1620, conveyed Bardsey,
Collingham, and Micklethwaite, to Sir Thomas Wentworth. The
celebrated Lord Strafford again disposed of these manors to Sir
John Lewis, of Ledston, one of whose daughters conveyed them
by marriage to Lord Scarsdale. In 1720, they were again con
veyed to the first Lord Bingley, and the barony of Bardsey, with
its appendages, now belongs to the Foxes of Bramham Park, who
have succeeded to the estates, but not to the title, of the
Bingleys. Bardsey is by no means destitute of literary celebrity, since
it was the birth-place of the celebrated, though eccentric and con
ceited, poet Congreve. He was born in the Grange, as appears
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 33. f Stev. Mon. Aug. 1, 861.

BARDSEY. 265
from the following entry in the parish register, " William, Sonne
of Mr. William Congreve, of Bardsey Grange, was baptized Feb.
10, 1669." Bardsey Grange was also signalised during the Pro
tectorate by the residence of Francis Thorpe, Baron of the
Exchequer, whose character has been coloured in the darkest
shades by some bigotted writers, but who does not appear to
have merited the infamy of hypoerisy and cunning which these
individuals have attached to his name.
We have only to add further concerning Bardsey, that the
jurisdiction of its Court Leet is very extensive, that the copy
holders of Collingham are bound to do service before it, and that
the same service has to be performed by many occupiers of land
within the parish of Otley. The most beautiful church here,
will be described in its proper place.
The parish of Bardsey, which is of but contracted dimensions,
and, with the exception of Rigton, rather a township than a village,
contains a very small population. Rigton is mentioned in
Doomsday Book, but it will be useless in the absence of any
Other particulars to transcribe the notice in that volume. Wother-
some, a hamlet in the same parish, scarcely deserves mention.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF BARDSEY.

1801.

1811.

1821.

1831.

Bardsey with Rigton, . .

.. 364

348 15

356 16

331 21

2 m

^66

THE PARISH OF WHITKIRK.

This name is derived from the erection of a church of White
Stone in the place of a much earlier one of wood, discoloured no
doubt by exposure to the atmosphere in so bleak a situation.
The church itself is placed on the most commanding site occu
pied by any similar edifice in the district; it is built on the
summit of a lofty hill, and is a prominent landmark from an
immense distance in every direction. It is not mentioned in
Doomsday Book, no accurate intelligence can be procured of its
institution as a parish, nor can it be ascertained from which of
the great Saxon parishes it was dissevered.
By far the most interesting object in this parish is Temple
Newsam, now the seat of the Marchioness of Hertford. This
place is mentioned in the following terms in Doomsday Book.
"In Neuhusum, Dunstan and Glunier had eight Carucates of
land to be taxed, and there may be four ploughs. Anisfrid now
has it under Ilbert, and there are eight villanes and two sokemen,
with three ploughs. Meadow three acres. Wood pasture half
a mile long and half broad. Value in King Edward's time sixty
shillings, now six shillings."* Of this place Gough says, " From
Leeds the Are passeth by Temple Newsam, anciently Nehus or
Newbiggin, where a preceptory of Knights Templars was founded
in the time of Henry III." t To this powerful and renowned
body it was given by William de Villers, contemporary with
Archbishop Roger of York, who died 1181.
Although it may be a diversion from the regular order of our
history, we shall for the benefit of general readers give a short
account of the Knights Templars. This renowned order was
established in 1118, by the patriarch of Jerusalem, when the
crusaders were in possession of that city. It originally consisted
of nine poor knights, who lived together near the site of the
ancient Temple, from which they derived their name. Their
original employment was to take care of the pilgrims when
» Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 126. f Gough's Camden, iii. 45.

WHITKIRK. 267
exposed to the attacks of the infidels, and to protect the roads in _
the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. Their fame was soon extended,
their numbers were surprisingly increased, their valour excited
the admiration of Christendom, and every nation in Europe
poured its contributions into their treasury, and endowed them
with territorial possessions. Their arrogance increased with
their wealth, and after their expulsion from the Holy Land, they
became immersed in luxury, they wallowed in every sensual
indulgence, and their reputation for sanctity and even for morality
rapidly declined. Philip the Fair, King of France, no doubt
from motives of avarice as well as policy, after repeatedly
denouncing the order to Pope Clement V. at length ordered all
the knights in his dominions to be arrested in one day, and
extorted from many of them the confession of the most enor
mous crimes. The Pope then found that the interest of the
papal see required him to interfere; he promulgated bulls
addressed to the different sovereigns of Europe, in which he
detailed the dreadful charges which were brought against the
knights, and requested that they might all be put into confine
ment, and that judges might be appointed to determine their
innocence or guilt. On the same day, all the knights in Eng
land and Ireland were apprehended, the process against them
continued for three years, the result of the inquiry was laid
before the Pope at the Council of Vienne, and, after much
deliberation, he published a bull suppressing the order, not a. D. 1312.
exactly in consequence of its guilt, but as a measure of expe
diency and prudence. It was further determined by the Pope,
that in order to preserve the property of the Templars for its
original purpose, it should be transferred to the Knights Hos
pitallers; but Edward II. then King of England, when this
order was communicated to him, suspended its execution for
more than a year, and when he assented to it, declared that he
allowed it to operate for purposes of national utility, and without
abandoning his own right, or that of his subjects, to the property
in question. Some years afterwards he consulted the judges
upon the subject, and they declared that by the law of the land
all the possessions of the Templars had reverted as escheats to
the lords of the fees, and immediately an act of parliament was
passed, assigning them to the Knights Hospitallers, for the same
purposes for which they had been originally bestowed upon the.
Templars. '"
* Rymur's Fa;d. iii. 30, 34, 43, 101, 327, &c. Lingard, ii. 553, 555.

268 WH1TKIRK.
Temple Newsam, however, never passed into the hands of the
Hospitallers, but was granted in the second year of the reign of
Edward III. to Sir John Darcy and his heirs male. To the
reign of Henry VIII. it regularly descended in the line of this
family, but at this period, Thomas Lord Darcy and Meinel having
taken an active part in the Pilgrimage of Grace, was attainted,
and his estate was forfeited to the crown. In the crown, how.
ever, it did not long continue, for it was granted to Matthew
the Earl of Lennox, who was a resident at this place when his
unhappy son Henry Lord Darnley was born: — that son who was
the husband of one of the most beautiful women that ever lived,
and the victim- of one of the foulest crimes that ever was perpe
trated — that son who was the founder of a race of princes the
most infatuated and the most unfortunate described in the page
of history, distinguished both by their misfortunes and their
crimes, and the last of whom, like his fathers, died a fugitive and
an exile in a foreign land.
When James I. the son and heir of Lord Darnley ascended
the throne, the manor was again united to the crown, but James
soon bestowed it upon his relative the Duke of Richmond.
This nobleman sold it to Sir Arthur Ingram, the son of a citizen
of London, who had elevated himself to opulence by his com
mercial industry and enterprize, and Sir Arthur intending to
fix in Yorkshire the permanent residence of his family, purchased
not only the manor of Temple Newsam, but the manors of
Holbeck, Altoft, Warmfield cum Heath, and lands in many other
places. The old house, which had no doubt been reduced to a state
of dilapidation by age, and by the neglect of its temporary pos
sessors, Sir Arthur Ingram found by no means calculated for a
wealthy resident proprietor. He therefore pulled down the
ancient fabric (with the exception of one part, including the
chamber in which Lord Darnley was born, and which Thoresby *
explicitly states was to be seen in his time incorporated with the
* We transcribe the following sentence of Dr. Whitaker, which we leave
for perusal without any comment. " After Thoresby's time, an ancient cup
was found here, which evidently belonged to the Templars, the motto on
which, though if I perfectly understood it, veiy indecent, served to vindicate
the knights of this house from the most odious part of the charge preferred
against them. I should not have mentioned this circumstance, but as a
matter of evidence in favour of an oppressed and calumniated fraternity."
Loid. and Elm. 183.

WH1TKIRK. 269
new building), and reared the magnificent brick mansion, which
has remained to this day a monument of his liberality and taste.
From the following passage in Strafford's letters, it seems that
soon after it was built, the house was in imminent danger of being
burnt to the ground. Lord Strafford says " Also Sir Arthur
Ingram's house, Temple Newsham, by Yorke, is almost burnt to
the ground. Household stuff to the value of four thousand
pounds all consumed and lost."* Lord Strafford, however, was
induced to exaggerate the damage by a false report, for although
the loss in furniture and goods may have amounted to the sum
which he stated, it was discovered, when repairing the house
some years ago, that the ravages of the fire were confined to one
wing of the building.
The house at Temple Newsam is built of brick, it forms the
figure of a Roman H, or rather consists of three sides of a large
quadrangle. The age of the first Stuarts was characterised by
quaintness, and one striking proof of this defect in taste is fur
nished in this edifice. The roof is surmounted with a battlement
composed of capital letters in stonework, with this inscription,
" All Glory and Praise be given to God the Father, the Son, and
Holy Ghost on High ; peace upon earth, good will towards men,
honour and true allegiance to our gracious King, loving affections
amongst his subjects, health and plenty within this house." The
external appearance of the building, though not uniform, is very
imposing ; its deep and embayed windows are distinctive of the
age in which it was constructed ; splendid convenience and
domestic comfort form the character of its internal arrangments ;
its gallery, which contains a fine collection of paintings by the
most eminent masters, is one hundred and nineteen feet long and
above twenty wide ; and the whole fabric constitutes a truly noble
residence. The park around the house is extensive, it is shaded
by venerable and magnificent woods, the walk on the southern
declivity of the hill between gigantic trees is very fine, the situa
tion is truly beautiful, and the prospect would be exquisitely
lovely did not the smoke of Leeds, especially with a western
wind, so generally obscure the horizon.
Whitkirk was indubitably a considerable village in former
times; from a grant of profits made to the preceptory of Newlands
near Wakefield, in the fourth year of Henry IV. it appears that
* Strafford's Letters, p. 525.

A. D. 1635.

270 WHITKIRK.
there was a considerable and advantageous fair, held probably
annually; and the attribution of far greater importance to the
place than it now possesses is justified by the erection of the pre
sent church about the time of Henry VII. most likely the
third upon the site, and which would scarcely have been reared
upon such a scale had not there been a numerous population
around it. There are but few houses now at Whitkirk, some of
them, however, are respectable, and the village, notwithstanding
its elevated situation, is a very agreable and certainly a very
healthy place of residence.
We must not omit that Temple Newsam and the estates con
nected with it, became the property of the late Marquess of
Hertford, by his marriage with Isabella Ann Ingram Shepherd,
the eldest daughter of Charles, the tenth Viscount Irwine. It is
now the possession and frequently the residence of his relict the
dowager Marchioness.
We shall here proceed to give consecutively the notices in
Doomsday Book of the hamlets or manors in the parish of Whit
kirk. " In Halletune (Halton) Morfare had six carucates of
land to be taxed, where there may be three ploughs. Ilbert now
has it, and it is waste. Value in King Edward's time twenty
shillings, it now pays two shillings. In Seacroft Ode and Niu-
cling, Ulmar, Stainulf, Ragenild had seven carucates of land to
be taxed, and there may be four ploughs there. One Robert has
it of Ilbert, and it is waste. Wood pasture four quarentens long
and three broad. Value in King Edward's time four pounds, now
twenty-pence."* Only one particular relative to the state of
these villages can be deduced from this account, and that is that
the property in both the places had been so deteriorated by the
ravages of the Normans as to be worth little or nothing. The
civil history of this region we have already exhausted. We have
traced the derivation of the name Seacroft from those bloody bat
tles in very ancient times which were fought in its vicinity. We
have described the great event which occurred in the neighbour
hood, and which effected a complete revolution in the government
of the north of England — and we have stated how in the memoiv
able civil war which expelled Charles the Second from his throne,
a desperate contest took place at Seacroft between the parties
who were struggling for the mastery. With reference to Halton,
wc shall give it the full honour of a conjecture relative to the
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 125.

WH1TKIRK. 271
origin of its name, which has been zealously adduced and defended
by some accurate antiquaries. In ancient manuscripts it was
written Halghton, or the Holy town. From this circumstance
it has been supposed, that this is the place alluded to by the
venerable Bede, who says in his ecclesiastical history, that when
the king's palace and church at Allmanbury were burnt by the
pagans, the altar was brought to the Sylva Elmetae (the wood
in Elmete), where it was preserved in his days, and where there
was a religious house. That Halton was the very place in
question is highly probable, not only from its name, but from its
proximity to the great Saxon palace at Berwick and Osmand-
thorp. Some very curious particulars relative to this village
will be given in the Commercial History. Halton is the least
pleasant village in this neighbourhood ; the valley to the north
west now presents a singular scene, from the prodigious mound
upon which the Leeds and Selby rail-road runs being carried
through its whole length, and all the vast works of the Saxons
in the neighbourhood sink into insignificance when compared
with this great monument of modern labour. The stationary
condition in which this parish has remained through a consider
able period will be best ascertained by adverting to its comparative
population. POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF WHITKIRK.
1801.
Austhorpe,  103
Seacroft,  659
Temple Newsam,  1033
Thorp Stapleton, .... 5

1811.

1821.

1831.

150

150

169

762

886

918

976

1166

1458

5

25

19

272

THE PARISH OF BERWICK-IN-ELMETE.

The name of this place is certainly derived from the fact that
it was the village of the castle, alluding to the Saxon fortification
we have already described in our Saxon history of the district.
The notice in Doomsday is as follows, and as Ledstone and
Kippax are both referred to in the same paragraph we shall give
the whole at once. " In Chipesclh and Ledestune, Earl Edwin
had eighteen carucates to be taxed, and there may be ten ploughs
there. Land properly called Berewic, belongs to this manor, in
which there are eight carucates to be taxed, and there may be
four ploughs there. Ilbert de Lacy now has this land, where he
has twelve ploughs in the demesne, and forty-eight villanes and
twelve bordars, with sixteen ploughs and three churches and
three priests, and three mills of ten shillings. Wood pasture two
miles long and one broad. The whole manor five miles long and
two broad. Value in King Edward's time sixteen pounds, the
same now." Thus it is evident that the marauding soldiers of
the tyrannical Conqueror had either neglected this favoured
parish, or that there were some circumstances connected with the
conduct or the influence of the Saxon possessors which saved their
homes and their lands from the barbarous desolation in which the
rest of the district was involved. What those circumstances were,
we are unable, in the absence of all authentic record to conjec
ture. There must, however, have been in these parishes at the
time of the survey, a population of at least six hundred persons.
There can be little doubt but that the three churches mentioned
in the survey were those of Berwick, Kippax, and Ledstone.
We have already so fully described the history of this place
in the Saxon times, and substantiated its claims to the dignity of
a royal residence, that we shall confine ourselves at present to the
brief narrative of the particulars which can be gleaned relative
to its condition in more modern times. From the name of Hall
Tower Hill, which is applied to the immense mound which for-

BERWICK-IN-ELMETE. 273
merly instituted the Saxon keep, it is probable that a manor house
stood here in subsequent times, but by whom erected and by
whom destroyed, it is impossible to discover. The manor of
Berwick was part of the possessions of the Lacies, Earls of
Lincoln, and from them it passed to the duchy of Lancaster, by
the marriage of Alice de Lacy with Thomas Plantagenet ; it has
ever since remained vested in the duchy, and the living is per
haps the most valuable which it has the power to bestow.
The principal persons who have had influence in the parish of
Berwick in Elmete will be best ascertained from the inscriptions
which remain in the church. Thoresby says, " Allhallows
Church here has been adorned with painted glass, but most of it
is now defaced; there remains only fragments of inscriptions
round the heads, &c. as, " qui conceptus est de Spiritu Sancto na-
tus ex Maria; by the royal arms in the window, the painting
cannot be older than Henry V's time, the fleus de lis being
only three. The steeple 'tis evident was built in the reign of
Henry VI. by the inscription under the statue of Thos. Vavasour,
Esq. who, by the stone he is presented with, appears to have
been a benefactor thereunto. He was afterwards knighted, and
High Sheriff of the county, 10 of Edward IV. &c. The ancient
family of the Gascoignes of Barnbow and Parlington are interred
in the closet on the north side of the church, where their arms
remain empaled with the Vavasours' and the Ellyses' of Kid-
dall, &c." The same author also mentions a family of the name
of Greenfields, who flourished at Berwick-in-Elmete in the reigns
of Henry VI. and Edward IV.* &c. It seems then that the
parish of Berwick-in-Elmete and its dependant villages had several
families of comparative opulence and respectability flourishing
there in the middle ages — but the genius of aristocracy has never
found in these secluded regions any place of permanent abode,
and the agriculturalists, as well as the manufacturers, have been
left without the absolute and permanent residence of any of the
permanent lords of the soil.
Unimportant, however, as the villages in this parish are now,
some of them are mentioned in Doomsday Book. Of Kiddall it is
said, " In Chidale and Ptilincton, Ulchil had three carucates of
land to be taxed, where there may be two ploughs. Ilbert has
now there three bordars with one plough. There is wood pasture
there four quarentens long and four broad. Value in King
* Thoresby's Ducat, p. 234.
2 N

274 BERWICK-IN-ELMETE.
Edward's time thirty shillings, now three shillings." * It seems
then that here, at any rate, there were some vestiges of population,
and some indications of agricultural industry — that is to say in a
large extent of district, and with a regular division of property,
there were perhaps thirty persons dragging along their monotonous
existence, and trembling at the appearance of a Norman soldier.
Some testimonies may be found at Kiddall of the residence of
the ancient families we have alluded to, at the hall there was for
merly a window with a reference to the Ellis's mentioned above,
who here had their parent seat, and have produced some celebrated
men. A bishop of Kildare, well known among the clergy, whose
name was Ellis, was descended from this family ; and the family
of the same name, who have borne some of the most distin
guished offices in the country, have originated from the same
parent stem.
ROUNDHAY, one of the most pleasant places in the neigh
bourhood of Leeds, is in this parish. There can be little doubt
that its name was derived from a park which formerly existed
here in the time of the Lacies, and that from hence it was called
Roundhay, or the circular pale. It appears by the Monasticont
that Roundhay was given to the monks of Kirkstall by Robert
de Lacy at a very early period, and that it continued in the same
possession until the dissolution. Then it was purchased by the
Oglethorps ; and was transferred in the reign of James I. to the
Tempests, one of whom sold it to repair the dilapidations made
in the property of the family by confiscations and fines, which had
been imposed on account of the adherence of Stephen Tempest to
the cause of Charles I. in the civil wars. The property has since
been divided among several individuals. Roundhay is a very
beautiful appendage to Leeds, it principally consists of elegant
villas, surrounded with paddocks and pleasure grounds, and the
seat of the late S. Nicholson, Esq. is one of the best mansions in
the district.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF BERWICK-IN-ELMETE.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Berwick,  ) 550 693}
Kiddal and Potterton,f ,o7n 145 124f ]fif)fi
Morwich and Scholes.f "'" 457 . 491 f
Barnbow,  ) 271 273)
Roundhay,  84 150 186 314
Total,  1922
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 125. f Mon. Aug. 1, 862.

275

THE PARISH OF SWILLINGTON.

Op Swillington the following account is given in Doomsday
Book. " In Suillicton, Dunstan and Ode had nine carucates to
be taxed, and there may be five ploughs. Ilbert now has two
villanes there, and two bordars with one plough. There is a
church and four acres of meadow. Wood pasture four quarentens
long and one quarenten broad, the whole manor half a mile long
and half broad. Value in King Edward's time four pounds, now
ten shillings." * A very ancient family, who assumed the sur
name of de Swillington, flourished here from a very early period,
and frequently appear as witnesses to deeds to the commencement
of the fifteenth century. From them the manor passed to the
Hoptons, then to the Dyneleys, then to the Darcies, and then to
the Lowthers, the present possessors. Swillington is one of the
very few places in this district mentioned by Leland. He savs of
it, " Sir Arthur Hopton told me that the substance of the lands
he hath longged to the Swillingtons, that same tyme were
menne of two thousand markes of lands by the yere or more.
The chief house of the Swillingtons was at Swillington, in York
shire, a four miles from Pontefract Castle toward the quarters
of the river Aire. This Swillington ys yet in Syr Arthur
Hoptou's hands, and is the principal pece of land that he hath.
It was a late sold to Master North, and he exchanged with Syr
George Darcy for Einsham." * With the exception of this single
quotation, of which no use can be made, not one circumstance
can be presented to the reader relative to Swillington of any
interest whatever. Swillington Hall is a very good house, lately
modernized, situated very near the river, and forming a beautiful
object from the opposite side. This parish consists only of the
township, and is consequently very limited.
POPULATION OF SWILLINGTON.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
491 492 510 523
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 125. f Leland's Itin. vol. iv. part 8, p. 20.

276

THE PARISH OF LEDSHAM.

We have already quoted the notice of this place in Doomsday
Book, and made the only observation upon the description given
in that ancient record, which it appears to demand. There is no
doubt that the word was derived either from Leedes Ham* — a
hamlet depending upon, or connected with, Leeds — or from Leedes
Hem, the skirt, border, or frontier of the region of Leeds or
Loidis. Of both Ledsham and Ledston, Dr. Whitaker says,
" The probable existence of a church at Ledston, and the omis
sion of the usual mark in Doomsday to denote a church at
Ledsham, concurring with the respective terminations of the
words Ham and Tun, render it even more probable that as the
two places had one founder, Leid, Leodi, or Loidi, the former was
the village to which the- church was attached, and the latter was
the mansion of the Lord. Circumstances now irretrievable may
have inverted this arrangment; at all events the principal man
sion has long been at Ledston, and the parish church at Ledsham."t
Surely the fact which in the latter clause of this statement is made
by the Doctor, contradicts his own opinion, and goes far to prove
that the church was always at Ledsham, and the mansion at
Ledston. Ledsham Hall was long the seat of a family of the name of
Harebred, one of whom was clerk of the market in Ireland, in the
reign of Charles I. and under the Earl of Strafford. He sold the
estate of Ledsham to Sir Richard Saltonstall, knight. The
church, of which an ample account will be given in the next
book, is principally remarkable for the splendid monument it con
tains to the memory of Lady Elizabeth Hastings and her two
surviving sisters. The name of Lady Elizabeth will occupy a
distinguished place in our list of benefactors — she was indeed an
ornament to her sex and a blessing to her neighbourhood.
* Spelman Gloss, voc. Hamlet. Ducatus, p. 235.
f Loid and Elm. 145.

LEDSHAM. 277
Ledston has long been the seat of the lords of the adjoining
estates. At the Conquest it was the property of Edward Earl of
Mercia, whose lands were forfeited to the crown, and himself was
slain in an attempt to assist his brother, the great Earl Morcar,
who was in arms against the Normans. The hall was most pro
bably built by the Withams, an ancient and highly respectable
family, who resided at Ledston during many generations, until
Henry Witham sold the estate to Sir Thomas Wentworth, the
great Earl of Strafford, who would seem to have formed a strong
attachment to the situation, since he is known to have made many
improvements both in the house and the grounds. Sir John
Lewis purchased Ledston from the second Earl of Strafford, who
materially increased the convenience of the house and the beauty
of the park — the latter he surrounded with a stone wall, and
adorned with a stately lodge, built on a commanding eminence,
and commanding an almost boundless prospect to the east, includ
ing the towers of York minster, the hills above Selby, and the
distant summits of the Wolds. From the family of Sir John
Lewis, Ledston passed by marriage to the Hastingses, Earls of
Huntingdon, and afterwards to the Rawdens, Marquesses of
Hastings. Of the Withams, the ancient proprietors of the hall and the
estate, one curious circumstance may be related. William
Witham, who, from the pedigree of his family, appears to have
been buried on the ninth of May, 1593, was supposed to have
died in consequence of the diabolical incantations of an unfortu
nate being called Mary Pannel, who had obtained a disastrous
celebrity in this part of the country for her supposed intercourse
with malignant spirits. About ten years after the death of her
imagined victim, she was apprehended on the charge of sorcery,
arraigned and convicted at York, and was executed on a hill near
Ledston hall, the supposed scene of her infamous operations. The
hill where she died was long afterwards called Mary Pannel's hill,
and was regarded with abhorrence and alarm by the ignorant
rustics in the neighbourhood. In 1806, Ledston. hall was
honoured by a visit from the Prince of Wales, afterwards George
TV. and the Duke of Clarence, his present Majesty. Michael
Angelo Taylor, Esq. was then the resident at Ledston. The
Prince paid a visit at the same time to Lady Irwin, at Temple
Newsam, while the Duke of Clarence and Lord Dundas repaired
to Leeds, and inspected the manufactory of Messrs. Wormald,

278 LEDSHAM.
Gott & Co. the Cloth Halls, &c. with which the Duke declared
himself to be highly gratified.
Ledston Hall is very beautifully situated ; it stands cm the
brow of a fine eminence immediately above the rich valley of the
river Aire, which by its junction with the Calder is swelled into
a truly noble stream, and it commands a fine prospect of the
mountain range which runs from the southmost districts of the
Riding to the peak in Derbyshire. The hall itself is an excellent
house ; it consists of a centre and two wings, built at very differ
ent periods, and presenting a somewhat incongruous appearance.
Of this hall Gough speaks in the following terms, and in this
instance we quote his description, not only on account of the hall
itself, but also because of the particulars he communicates relative
to one of its most distinguished owners. "Ledstone hall was
formerly the seat of the ancient family of Witham, late V)f Sir
John Lewes, Bart, who having acquired a large fortune during
his nine years' factorship for the East India Company, and
handsome presents of jewels from the King of Persia, who
delighted in his company, laid out four hundred pounds in build
ing an hospital here for ten poor aged people, endowing it with
sixty pounds a year, and died in 1670. His eldest daughter and
coheir married Theophilus, Earl of Huntingdon, and the seat
came to her daughter Lady Elizabeth Hastings, who greatly
improved it, and was a true pattern of piety and charity." *
Ledston hall then is one of those very few seats in this district,
which owe their principal glories, if not their very existence, to
those nabobs of the east, who come with blasted constitutions
and exorbitant wealth, to excite the astonishment and envy of the
multitude, by exhibiting the glittering spoils of the east. Well
would it be, if all these returned wealthy functionaries expended
their property as laudably as Sir John Lewes !
The stone quarries in this neighbourhood have long possessed
extensive and merited celebrity. One of these quarries long bore
the name of Peter's Post, because York minster, dedicated to
St. Peter, was built of its stone, for which a free passage through
his estate was given by Robert Vavasour, Esq.t The stone from
Huddlestone Quarry is very beautiful, large quantities of it were
formerly brought to Leeds, and we have already mentioned it in
our allusions to some of the edifices in that town ; like many
other kinds of freestone, it has the remarkable and the very
* Gough, iii. 16. f Monast. Anglu. iii. 162, 163, 564.

LEDSHAM. 279
desirable quality of being so soft when taken from its bed as to
be very easily wrought, but constantly increasing in hardness and
durability when exposed to the air.
Of FAIRBURN, by far the most populous village in this parish,
no particulars can be communicated which will be of any interest
to the reader. The whole parish, like the others in its neigh
bourhood, is very thinly peopled, the inhabitants are entirely
agriculturalists, and no manufactories have ever been established
within its boundaries.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF LEDSHAM.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Ledsham,  220 241 212 236
Ledston,  238 195 243 243
Fairburn,  ?39 351 426 465
Total,  944

280

PARISH OF KIPPAX.

Op this parish, almost totally barren of materials for history,
a very short notice must be sufficient. The Saxons had a fortress
here, upon the summit of one of those hills to which they were so
much attached for the purposes both of pleasure and defence.
This circumstance originated the name, which in modern times
has been somewhat corrupted from its original orthography and
pronunciation. We have already seen that in Doomsday Book it
was called Chepesch. The Saxon mount or fortress was called a
Keep, Esh is the old northern spelling of the word ash, and on
this account it is conjectured that the name was originated by
some remarkable and celebrated ash, which grew either on, or in
the immediate vicinity of, the mount or keep.
The principal object at Kippax is the park, the elegant seat
of Thomas Davison Bland, Esq. The original house was built in
the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and the old front still appears in
the centre of the mansion. It was erected by Sir Thomas Bland,
who was justice of the peace, in the 32nd Eliz. and who died in
London in the first year of the reign of James I. His unhappy
grandson, who died at the early age of twenty-one, two years
after the restoration of Charles II. made large additions to the
house, which after all he left unfinished, and it has been brought
to its present state of elegance and convenience, by the taste and
liberality of successive occupants. Gough describes Kippax hall
with his usual accuracy. He tells us " it is pleasantly situated
on a rising ground, and sheltered on the north by higher grounds.
The park was well stocked with a particular set of black deer.
Behind the house, in a garden, is an extraordinary good echo." *
When the male line of the family of the Blands became extinct
in 1756, the name was assumed by Thomas Davison, Esq. the
grandson of Anne, the daughter of Sir John Bland, who on the
commencement of the last century, was one of the most active
* Gough Additions to Camden, iii. 48.

THORNER. 281
magistrates in Yorkshire and Lancashire, and as member of Par
liament successively for Appleby, Pontefract, and Lancashire,
occupied a seat in the national legislature for a longer period
than any other individual of his time.

POPULATH

JN OF KIPPAX.

1801.

1811.

1821.

1831.

1523

1573

1763

1901

THE PARISHES OF THORNER AND COLLINGHAM.

The history of the parishes of Thorner and Collingham
almost exclusively belongs to the next book, and little more need
to be done in this part of our history, than to state the amount of
their respective populations. They have seldom been alluded to
in our local histories, few events have transpired within their
limits which demand observation, and they are secluded from the
common transit of travellers and from the usual track of
topographers. There is one fact, however, which a reference to these places
will partially illustrate, and which is not devoid of interest. It
seems unquestionably the case, that in Saxon times, the whole of
this part of the district was of greater comparative importance
than it now possesses. We have seen that the fragments of
various Saxon fortifications and palaces are thickly scattered over
the whole region, that some villages now obscure and insignifi
cant were once honoured with the residence of monarchs and the
display of their magnificence, and that there is every reason to
conclude that the whole vicinity was highly cultivated and
populous. This representation will be found corroborated
by a very curious fact relative to Thorner, recorded in Dooms.
day Book. We first find it stated of this place, which is
mentioned among the lands of Ilbert de Lacy, " In Torneure,
Ulchil, Ulner, Berguluer, and Ulstan, had eight carucates of
land to be taxed, and there may be there four ploughs. Ilbert
has there two villanes, and one bordar with two ploughs. Wood
pasture, half a mile long and the same broad. Value in King
2o

282 THORNER.
Edwards time four pounds, now ten shillings." In another part
of the same work, we find a dispute to have existed relative to
the possession of Thorner. " The people of the wapentakes of
Barchestone and Siraches, (Barkstone and Skyrack,) refused the
evidence of Osbern de Arches, because they knew not of whose
gift his predecessor Gulbert had all Tourneure, namely four
manors of eight carucates of land. But the whole of Tourneure
is situate within the bounds of the castle of Ilbert according to
the first measurement, but without, according to the last mea
surement."* Hence it will be perceived that on account of
the rent derived from Thorner, four pounds, no small
sum in Saxon times, there must have been considerable care
bestowed upon the cultivation of the soil ; it is probable, indeed,
that the place was more valuable in the time of Edward the
Confessor than for some subsequent ages. It would be amusing,
if it were not humiliating, to contemplate a few wretched serfs
contending about the boundaries of the territorial jurisdiction of
their tyrants, and disputing whether they were to be dragooned
by Ilbert de Lacy, or by some other insolent military baron. The
condition of the native English after their subjection by the
Normans, was as degraded and as unhappy as that of any set of
men who ever existed upon the surface of the globe. They were
captives quarrelling about the weight of their chains. We pur
posely abstain from presenting those further particulars of this
place, which will be best arranged in another department of our
work. We only add here that Thorner is an extremely pleasant
and rather a large village, consisting of one long street, the
church is a very imposing object, and the neighbourhood is truly
delightful. The inhabitants are blessed with a well of beautifully
clear and salubrious water, commonly called Sykes's well. The
two hamlets of Shadwell and Scarcroft are very agreable places
for a visit, and very pleasant for a summer ramble, but they are
insufferably monotonous as residences, and the roads in winter
storms, or summer rains, are almost impassable.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF THORNER.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Thorner,  563 621 708 824
Shadwell,  141 187 197 248
Scarcroft,  70 74 105 168
Total,  1220
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 135, 239.

COLLINGHAM. 283
The history 01 COLLINGHAM is essentially interwoven
with that of Bardsey, with which it has generally been identified
in the transfers of property which have taken place. It is a
delightful village by the Wharf, and its importance has been
very materially increased, since the new road from Leeds to
Wetherby has been opened, and since some of the public coaches
and other vehicles from the former town to York, have begun to
run through the place. Micklethwaite is not in our district.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF COLLINGHAM.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
287 326 286 414

28i

CHAPTER VI.
THE PARISHES OF METHLEY, CASTLEFORD, AND ROTHWELL.

THE PARISH OF METHLEY.
Methley is a very ancient village or rather town. In the
Saxon times it was respectable if it was not important. One very
interesting relic of those times still remains. It is the statue of
king Oswald, the patron saint of the place, over the south door
of the church, with which it is most probably contemporary; it
represents the figure of a venerable man in robes, with a sceptre
and a crown, and though it is considerably decayed it is still in
good preservation when its very high antiquity is considered. Of
the condition of the place in Saxon times, some idea may be
formed by the description of it in Doomsday book. " In Medelai,
Osulf and Cunt had eight carucates of land to be taxed, where
there may be five ploughs. Ilbert has there seventeen villanes,
and five bordars with five ploughs. Wood pasture, one mile long
and one broad. There is a church and a priest. Value in King
Edward's time sixty shillings, now forty shillings." * According
to the principle of calculation then which we have adopted in this
work, Methley had at this period a population of two hundred and
twenty, or two hundred and thirty souls.
In what method the manor of Methley was conveyed to the
hospital of St. Nicholas at Pontefract, it is impossible to ascer
tain, but that it had been granted to that foundation is indubitable,
since a licence was granted in the eleventh year of the reign of
Henry IV. to the master of the house in question, to exchange
this manor with Sir John Waterton for certain advowsons. The
Watertons very soon made Methley the place of their perma
nent residence. The following is the manner in which Methley
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 139, 1 10.

METHLEY. 285
was transferred from the family of the Watcrtons. The last Sir
Robert Waterton, who lived in the reign of Edward IV. had no
issue, and his estates devolved to his sister lady Welles, who had
four coheiresses. One of these coheiresses was married to Sir
Thomas Dymoke, knight, who in the distribution of the estates
became seized of the manor of Methley ; bow it passed from the
Dymokes cannot be ascertained, but in less than a century after
the event to which we have alluded, it became the property of the
Saviles, with whom it still remains.
Of the residents at Methley, and their immediate connexions,
some interesting particulars may be gleaned from the records of
bygone days. One of the Sir Robert Watertons, who distin
guished himself by founding the chapel which bears his name, in
Methley church, was one of the most prominent characters of his
age. After having served Richard II. he became master of the
horse to Henry IV. and he was one of the knights who with Sir
Thomas Rokeby arrested the progress of the insurrection of the
Earl of Northumberland, which terminated in the defeat and
death of that ambitious nobleman on Bramham Moor. Lionel
Lord Welles, who prominently engaged in the sanguinary wars
of the Roses, and who was slain at the battle of Towton, was
brought to Methley to be interred, and his memory is commemo
rated by a splendid tomb, upon which his representation reclines
in the church. When the Saviles obtained possession of Methley,
their house was often the abode not only of hospitality, but of
learning, and some of the members of this family rendered Meth
ley the concentration of intelligence and liberal inquiry. A
striking and a pleasing proof of this is afforded by a letter among
the Strafford papers, from Sir Henry Wotton to the Earl of
Strafford, then Sir Thomas Wentworth, in which he informs him
of the fulfilment of a promise in having borrowed for him from
the celebrated John Hales of Eton, Dutravius de Piscinis, a
piece of rural philosophy, on which he says they had conversed at
Methley, and he speaks with great delight of the Methley Tri-
plicity, of which Henry Lord Clifford formed one.* This lan
guage proves that the then resident at Methley must have been
a man both of knowledge and of taste, and implies a pleasing
communion of literature and of comparative elegance, in an age
when not many of the English nobility were devoted to the
* Strafford's letters, i. 45.

286 METHLEY.
muses. Of this family we can only add at present that Sir John
Savile, of Methley hall, was created baron Pollington of Longford
in Ireland, in 1753, and Earl of Mexborough in 1765. The title
still remains in the family.
One of the most accurate and valuable of our antiquarians
and topographers has thus spoken of Methley. " The town of
Methley stands on a great deal of ground, and had in it many
houses of gentlemen who had estates in these parts."
" Methley hall," continues the same writer, " stands a little to
the west of the town and church of Methley. This was a fine
old house built originally by Sir Robert Waterton, in the reign
of King Henry IV. but afterwards great part of it was rebuilt in
the time of Queen Elizabeth, by Sir John Savile the Judge. It
was hioated round, and had a stone bridge over the moat to a
tower in the centre of the front, where was a gateway or entrance
with strong gates like a castle, and a portcullis to let down in
time of danger. On the opposite side of the house was a draw
bridge over the moat. The house was built like a castle round a
square court. In the front were three towers, that in the middle
through which the grand entrance was, and another tower at
each end of the front, in one of which was a ring of bells. But
the house having gone out of repair by reason of the moat, the
late Earl of Mexborough pulled part of it down and built much
in the modern taste. There is a good park and well stocked with
deer." * This old hall, Thoresby, who incidentally refers to it in
his account of Potter Newton, calls it " a curious house at Med
ley, which was it within my limits, merits a particular descrip
tion, especially the celebrated long gallery, in the windows of
which are painted the arms of the Yorkshire nobility as they
were in Elizabeth's reign," — and then he justly adds " that this
ancient and honourable family has obliged the world with many
eminent and learned persons." + The gallery of which Thoresby
speaks in this passage has been pulled down, and a modern front
has been erected, distinguished by a simplicity not often disco
vered in mansions of a similar dignity and extent. Some of the
ulterior apartments are very superb, all the arrangements are
magnificent and convenient, the hall and the back part of the
house retain all the interesting characters of antiquity, and the
range of park in front of the grand entrance, bounded by very
< Cough's Additions to Camd. vol. iii. p. 41, f Ducat. 113.

METHLEY. 287
extensive woods, is one of the finest in the county. The whole
domain of Methley displays a softened, chastened, and luxuriant
beauty rarely equalled in this part of the country. The village
has lost much of its character as described by Gough, although
there are still some respectable houses in its vicinity: some of the
buildings are very ancient, the house fronting the road from
Leeds, and standing near the church, is a perfect picture of a
country inn of the olden time, the surrounding country is rich
and cultivated to the highest possible degree, and some gentle
slopes and undulating hills prevent that monotonous aspect of
dead and unvarying level, which characterises so many of the most
fruitful provinces of England. The beauty of the country is
materially increased by the approach of the two great rivers Aire
and Calder to the junction of their waters, which takes place at
Castleford, about a mile and a half from Methley.
The retirement of Methley has been somewhat invaded,
though its convenience has been materially subserved, by the for
mation of the new Leeds, Pontefract, and Barnsdale turnpike-
road, which was opened July 13, 1822, and diminishes the distance
of the former road between Leeds and Doncaster more than
four miles. It was constructed under the superintendence of Mr.
M' Adam, so celebrated for his new system of making and repair
ing roads and thoroughfares. The reader will be pleased by
perusing at the close of this brief account the short and grateful
description of this place by Camden. At the conflux (i. e. of the
Aire and Calder) stands Methley anciently Medeley, g. d.
interamna, or the town between rivers, so called from its situa
tion, in the last age the seat of Robert Waterton, master of the
horse to' King Henry V. but now of the renowned knight Sir
John Savile, a most worthy baron of the Exchequer, to whose
politeness I most gladly take this opportunity of professing my
obligations, as well as to his learning for promoting this work.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF METHLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
1,234 1,385 1,499 1,593

288

THE PARISH OF CASTLEFORD.

We have already so exhausted the ancient history of Castle
ford, (see p. 19,) and its modern history is so barren of incident
and event, that a very few words will be sufficient to dismiss the
subject. When the Roman town at Castleford was destroyed, a
very considerable period seems to have elapsed before it again
became the site of a village. And when a skirmish took place
here between the citizens of York and the soldiers of Ethelred,
five hundred years after the departure of the Romans, it was a
mere ford across the river. The origin of its name as " the ford
by the castrum or castle," has been pointed out in the descrip
tion we have already given of it. It is a very remarkable
circumstance, that Castleford, though so near to Pontefract, is
not mentioned in Doomsday Book. It was probably at that time
completely in ruin and desolation, and even if it had not been so,
William the Conqueror and his bands of gallant barbarians, who
were detained here three weeks by the swelling of the Aire when
on their march to the siege of York, and the devastation of the
north of England, would have reduced it to utter destruction.
Since it appears almost certain that the church at Castleford was
built by one of the first Lacies, and that the little parish was at
the same time dissevered from that of Methley, it is probable that
the rudiments of a town were formed here soon after the Conquest,
and that a few cottages, with a house for a priest, were built
along the margin of the stream. Henry de Lacy, who flourished
in the reign of Henry the First, granted the church at Castleford
to the hospital of Barton Lazers in Lincolnshire, (a grant which
never took effect) and bestowed upon the monks of Pontefract
the profits of the ferry. It is evident, therefore, that at this
period, there was no bridge. When the heiress of the Lacies was
married to the Duke of Lancaster, Castleford became the property
of that duchy, and John of Gaunt alienated two-thirds of the
tithe of the demesne lands in this parish towards the maintenance

CASTLEFORD. 289
of a chaplain in St. Clement's chapel, within the walls of the
castle of Pontefract. It is most likely from the fact of the arms
of this prince having been placed upon the borders of the win
dows of the church, that he repaired and probably rebuilt that
edifice. Although the advowson of the church is vested in the
king, the Blands of Kippax park are the mesne lords of the
manor. In the wars of the Roses, Castleford witnessed the pas
sage of the troops of Lord Falconbridge over the river Aire prior
to the engagement which issued in the defeat and death of the
sanguinary and brutal Lord Clifford, and formed an ominous pre
lude to the great battle of Towton. Only one other circumstance
of a very different nature distinguished it during the middle
ages — it "was the birth-place of Thomas de Castleford, a Benedic
tine monk, who wrote the history of Pontefract, and flourished
about the year 1326. Castleford, from its situation at the conflu
ence of the Aire and Calder, possesses a trade very considerably
above its proportion of population ; it has an extensive pottery,
and large quantities of flint and corn are conveyed from it to
Leeds and Wakefield. A curious regulation is established here
relative to tithes ; twenty eight quarts of wheat are paid to the
rector for every one pound of annual rent paid by the tenant to
his landlord on arable land, and twenty quarts for every two
pounds of annual rent on grass land, free of tenants' taxes. The
stone bridge, of three arches, over the Aire was built by Bernard
Hartley in 1805. The monotonous uniformity of existence at
Castleford has seldom been disturbed by any extraordinary occur
rence, and nothing has taken place here to divert the attention of
the inhabitants from their customary occupations, with the excep
tion of a riot in 1795, when the people, goaded to phrenzy by the
high price of provisions and the impossibility of providing for the
necessities of their families, seized a vessel laden with corn, and
did not abandon their prize until the military arrived and cap
tured a dozen of their ringleaders.
POPULATION OP THE PARISH OF CASTLEFORD.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Castleford,  793 890 1,022 1,141
Glass Houghton,  382 409 412 446
Total,  1,587

2 P

290

THE PARISH OF ROTHWELL.

The derivation of this name is evident and easy. The first
syllable is a Saxon word, which signifies the noise of a bubbling
and abundant fountain, and the whole refers to the copious and
excellent well near the church.
That it was a place of importance in the time of the Saxons is
demonstrated by the fact, that it was a parish separated from the
original one at Morley, and was therefore most likely the centre
of a considerable population. Another remarkable circumstance
conducts to the same conclusion — each of the townships into
which the parish was, and still is, divided, had a manor house in
the Saxon times, although in the era of the Conqueror they all
constituted but one manor. The following is the account of this
parish in Doomsday Book. " In Rodewell and Lostose, Carlen-
tone, Torp, and Middletone, there are twenty-four carucates and
one oxgang to be taxed, and there may be twelve ploughs there.
Harold, (fourteen carucates,) Bared, (seven carucates and a half,)
Alric, (ten oxgangs and a half,) and Stainulf, (ten oxgangs and a
half,) had halls there. Ilbert now has two ploughs there, and
sixteen villanes, and one bordar with eight ploughs, and one mill
of two shillings, and nine acres of meadow. Wood pasture, two
miles long, and one broad. The whole manor two miles long and
two broad. Value in King Edward's time eight pounds, now
sixty-five shillings."* The fact that in each of the townships
mentioned above, there was a resident proprietor and a hall, is
unique in the history of this district, and implies a degree of hap
piness and general prosperity, as well as security of property,
unknown in almost any other department of the neighbourhood,
and unhappily also unknown in this parish for a period long pos
terior to the Conquest. There is a strange mistake in this
description relative to the size of the parish ; it is represented as
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 112.

ROTHWELL. 291
only two miles square, whereas it has thrice the dimensions which
are thus assigned to it.
Rothwell then was a manor belonging to the Lacies, and
incorporated in their lordship of Pontefract; and in order to
maintain their influence, and to defend their possessions, they
built a small castle or fortress, which stood very near the present
church, and of which some fragments remain to the present day.
When this castle became dismantled, or otherwise unfit for the
purposes of defence, the inhabitants, from the machicolated battle
ment of the church tower, appear to have regarded it as their
fortress, and to have been prepared to defend it in danger. Of
this church we shall speak in the next book. Its advowson, and
the great tithes connected with it, were sold by Humphrey
Mildmay and Thomas Crompton to George Earl of Salop, in the
31st of Elizabeth. After several intermediate descents, they
were sold by the executors of Edward Wortley Montague, Esq.
to Charles Brandling, Esq. of Middleton, for sixteen thousand
pounds, and in his family the patronage now remains. The
manor of Rothwell and Rhodes belongs to John Blayds, Esq. of
Oulton. When Alice de Lacy, in the beginning of the fourteenth
century, married Thomas Earl of Lancaster, all the possessions of
the Lacies were vested in the duchy, and in the duchy no incon
siderable proportion of them in this part of the district still
remain. We have already mentioned an interesting circumstance
which took place in this parish, (see p. ) when the last wild
boar in the north of England was killed in a hunt by John of
Gaunt ; we can only add that some pieces of armour which have
long been preserved in the neighbourhood are said to have
helonged to this celebrated Prince, but upon what ground it is
impossible to discover. We are inclined to believe that the
tradition is unfounded. During the sixteenth century, Rothwell
was twice visited by the plague ; on the first occasion, in 1557,
the burials increased from twenty to seventy-six, and in 1588
from thirty-four to one hundred and twenty-seven.
We shall now proceed to refer to each of the townships and
other places in the parish of Rothwell, and then make some gene
ral observations on the whole.
The manor house at Rothwell was anciently called the Manor
Garth, and from the following curious warrant from Henry VII.
preserved in the records of the honour of Pontefract, it appears
during the wars of the Roses to have fallen into ruin. " Henry,

292 ROTHWELL HAIGH.— OULTON.
&c. To our trusty and well beloved the steward of Pontefract.
Whereas the manor of our lordship of Rothwell called the Mannor
Garth, is in grete ruyiue of decay, and the building upon the
same edified is lyke for feblenesse and defalt of reparacion in
tymes past, to fall downe, and whereof as nowe wee have litel
profitt or none. And forasmuch as our trustye and wel beloved
Roger Hopton, Esq. gent, husher of our chamber, hath promised
and granted to reedifie and build a certayne convenient houseing
of less building, more for our pleasir and hys ese within ye said
Garthes, that hee may have ye same Garthes to hym, hys heirs
and assigns by copye of of. corte, and after the custome of the
mannor there. Wherefore wee wyl and require you, &c. Yeaven
at oure palace of Westminster, the eight and twentieth day of
November, the firste yeere of our rayne." Such was the reward
of the family of the Hoptons for their no doubt faithful services
to the cause of the Lancastrians, and active exertions on the
bloody field of Bosworth.
ROTHWELL HAIGH,
Though not a township, demands specific mention in this
chapter. The second word of the name appears to be a corrup
tion of Haye, and the name was given to it because of the pale
with which it was surrounded as an ancient park of the Lacies.
It descended to the duchy of Lancaster, and was granted by
Henry VIII. to Lord Darcy. Its subsequent owners totally neg
lected it as unworthy of their attention, unconscious of the inex
haustible riches contained beneath its surface. It was inclosed in
1784, and its productiveness soon demonstrated the wisdom of its
cultivation. The coal mines at this place are immensely valuable
to the owners.
OULTON.
It is a singular circumstance that this place, which, from its
name " the Old Town," would appear to lay claim to consider
able antiquity, is not mentioned in Doomsday Book. Oulton has,
however, obtained a celebrity which few places in this district can
parallel, as having been the birth-place of Dr. Richard Bentley,
whose name as a scholar, notwithstanding all his failings, will
descend to the latest posterity. His family were respectable, but
they had not long resided in the village prior to the birth of this
extraordinary man, and at the present period the very house in

MIDDLETON. 293
which he was born cannot be pointed out. The following is the
record of his baptism in the parish register of Rothwell. " Feb.
6, 1661, (Bapt.) Richard, a child of Thomas Bentley, of Oulton."
In a later hand it is added, " Since D. D. and a learned author,
1700 ;" and in a third hand, " He died in the year 1742." The
manor of Oulton belongs to John Blayds, Esq. The village is
pleasant and rural, and the hall, which was formerly a common
substantial dwelling house, is now an excellent mansion, equal to
any gentleman's house in the vicinity. The most beautiful new
church here, whose existence is to be ascribed to the munificence
of the gentleman we have just named, will demand particular
and extended description in its proper place in the next chapter.
One of the most striking objects in this rural place is a house on
the left hand side on the entrance to the village on the road
from Leeds, which is one of the best specimens of the old wood
and plaister style of building with gables, which is to be found in
this part of the country.
MIDDLETON.
The township of Middleton is remarkable for three circum
stances — first for the remains of an indigenous wood exactly of
the description of the Silva Pascua of Doomsday Book — secondly,
for the great abundance of its coal — and thirdly, for the residence
of one of the most ancient and respectable families in this neigh
bourhood. The first who can be discovered to have been seized
of this manor was Robert de Creping, thrice high sheriff of the
county in the reign of Henry III. John Creping, the son of the
above Robert, held the same dignity in the first and second years
of the reign of Edward II. The grand-daughter of John, who
was married to Sir John Merworth, a knight of Kent, granted
with her husband the manor of Middleton to Gilbert de Leghe,
at that time residing in Cheshire, but descended from a very
ancient family in the county of Cumberland. He entered upon
the possession of the manor in the reign of Edward III. Here
the family continued to reside until the reign of Henry VIII.
when William Leghe, Esq. who then held lands in West Ardsley,
Westerton, Wombwell, Blacop, and Long Liversedge, in this
county, as well as in the county of Chester, entered upon the pos
session of the estate ; he appears to have been engaged in some
plot against government, or to have, by some other transaction,
fallen under the displeasure of the king, for he was attainted of

294 LOFTHOUSE.
high treason with one Edward Tattersall, a clothier, and Ambler,
A. D. 1541. a priest, in the thirty-third year of the reign of Henry VIII. and
he was shortly afterwards executed with his accomplices. Not
withstanding this unfortunate circumstance, the manor continued
in the possession of the Leghes, and Sir Ferdinando Leghe was a
distinguished officer in the royal army in the civil wars ; he was
first captain in the Isle of Man under the Earl of Derby, then he
was of the privy chamber to Charles I. and afterwards colonel of
a regiment of horse in the service of the king. He died at Pon
tefract, 1654. His grand-daughter married Ralph Brandling,
Esq. of Tilling, in the county of Durham, in whose family it has
ever since, that is more than a century, remained. There are
scarcely any remains to be discovered of the old manor house of
the Leghes -the modern mansion, erected by the Brandling
family, stands on a fine elevation, commands extensive prospects
of Leeds and the surrounding country, is surrounded by fine oak
woods, which contain some pleasant walks and drives, and would
be a very agreeable residence were it not for the filth and noise of
the adjacent coal mines.
LOFTHOUSE
Has acquired its principal fame from having been the resi
dence of the celebrated John Hopkinson, the antiquary, whose
learning and prudence acquired the just respect of the stormy
age in which he lived, and whose labours have imposed upon every
succeeding topographer a debt of gratitude and admiration. This
celebrated man was clerk of the peace for the county of York in
the reign of Charles I.— he devoted all his leisure time to the col
lection and transcription of all the curious papers relating to the
antiquities of the whole county of York he could obtain, and in
transcribing and arranging the genealogies of the nobility and
gentry. His compilations and manuscripts are now in the pos
session of Miss Currer. Of John Hopkinson and his father
George, two interesting papers have been preserved, which we
regret that our limits will not permit us to present at length to
our readers. They are two letters of protection from the rival
commanders in Yorkshire during the civil wars, granted with the
view of saving the family from the hostile attempts which the
straggling parties of the two armies might be disposed to make
upon the persons or the properties of the Hopkinsons. The first
letter is from the Marquis of Newcastle, commanding the royal

LOFTHOUSE. 295
forces, " to desist from plundering, molesting, pillaging, or any
way injuring George Hopkinson, his servants, or family." This
letter is dated October 1, 1643. The second letter is from Lord
Fairfax, commanding the parliamentarians " to take especial care
that Geo. Hopkinson, of Lofthouse, gent, and John Hopkinson,
his son, be not plundered, pillaged, or any way injured in any of
their goods by those in the service of the parliament." This
second letter is dated July 20, 1644. It is pleasing to find two
contending parties thus doing homage to virtue and science, and
exemplifying some sense of humanity and some deference to lite
rary eminence amidst all the exasperation and horrors of civil
war. But we must hasten from this parish which has already
detained us too long.
THORP ON THE HILL was an old seat of the family of
the Swillingtons, afterwards of the Gascoignes, then of the
Ingrams, then of Metcalf Proctor, Esq. and now of the Dealtries;
it overlooks a great extent of country to the east, and from its
elevated situation is visible from an immense distance. Several
moulds have been found here containing Roman coins, the two
sides of Alexander Severus and Mammaea.
CARLTON is remarkable for having been the seat of the
Hunts, who derived their name, as a singular charter of the age
of Edwaad II. proves, from their devotion to the chace. The
family continued in the possession of the estate until the reign of
Henry VIII. and one of them granted a license for a chantry in
the parish church of Rothwell.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF ROTHWELL.
1801.
Rothwell with Rothwell Haigh, 1,689
Middleton  831
Oulton with Woodlesford, .... 1,223
Thorp,  55
Carlton with Lofthouse, .... 798

1811.

1821.

1831.

1,711

2,155

2,638

906

1,096

976

1,267

1,526

1,496

66

80

62

1,054
tiwell. .

1,396

1,463

2»G

CHAPTER VII.

WAKEFIELD.

The name of Wakefield is generally considered to have been
derived from its first Saxon possessor, and to mean " the field of
Wache." However vague and unsatisfactory such an etymology
may be, we are compelled to adopt it in the want of a better.
Wakefield is thus surveyed in Doomsday Book. " In Wachefield,
with nine Berewics, Sandala (Sandal,) Sorebe (Sowerby,) Werla
(Warley,) Feslie (Fixby,) Wadesuurde (Wadsworth,) Crumbeton-
seton (Crumsonden in Heptonstall,) Meclei (Midgley,) Langfelt
(Langfield,) Stanesfelt (Stansfield,) there are sixty carucates and
three oxgangs and the third part of an oxgang to be taxed.
Thirty ploughs may till these lands. This manor was in the
demesne of king Edward. There are now in the king's hand
four villanes, and three priests, and two churches, and seven soke-
men, and sixteen bordars. They together have sixteen ploughs.
Wood pasture, six miles long, and four broad. Value in King
Edward's time sixty pounds, at present fifteen pounds."* It will
be seen then that Wakefield extended over the principal part of
what is now the parish of Halifax, that it consequently included
a vast extent of country, that its population was exceedingly
limited, and that an immense proportion of it was abandoned to
the horrors of unmitigated sterility.
At the time of this survey it will further be seen that Wake
field was in the hands of the crown. How the lordship or dis
trict was conferred upon the great Earls of Warren cannot be
distinctly ascertained ; it seems, however, to have been granted
to that powerful and renowned family not long after the compila
tion of Doomsday Book, for the second Earl of Warren, who
succeeded to the estates of his father, A. D. 1088, granted the
church at Wakefield and the chapel of Horbury, with all their
appendages, as well as the church at Halifax, with all its appen-
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, 15.

WAKEFIELD. 297
dages, and the church of Dewsbury and the chapel at Hertshead,
with all their appendages, to God and St. Pancras of Lewis. The
historian, however, of the Warren family* quotes a passage from
a; manuscript by Mr. Nalson, in which the writer states that the
manor of Wakefield, &c. was parcel of the possessions of the crown
of England until the grant of Henry I. to Earl Warren in 1116.
With the Warrens the manor of Wakefield remained until the
ninth year of the reign of Edward II. when the last Earl having
no male issue gave the fee simple of the inheritance of ajl his
lands to the crown, receiving from the king the assignment for
life of the manors and castles of Conisborough and Sandal,, under
the last of which Wakefield was included, together with Dewsbury,
Halifax, &c. The object of the Earl of Warren in thus assigning
his property to the king, was to obtain a re-grant to his natural
children. Thus the king in the following year granted this
manor to the Earl and his concubine Maud de Nerford, for life,
with remainder to John de Warren, natural son of this Earl
by his mistress we have just named, remainder to Thomas, ano
ther of her sons, and remainder to the heirs of the said Earl
lawfully begotten ; and in failure of such issue to revert to the
crown. In the twelfth year of Edward II. John Earl of Warren A.D. 1319.
granted this lordship to Thomas Earl of Lancaster, but this
nobleman, three years afterwards, having been beheaded at the
castle of Pontefract for his unsuccessful rebellion, the Earl of
Warren again became lord of the manor of Wakefield. This
nobleman afterwards married his mistress, she survived both the
Earl and his sons, and both retained possession of the manor and
held its courts, until her death in the thirty-third year of the
reign of Edward III. From her death the manor remained in
possession of the crown, until Charles I. granted it to Henry
Earl of Holland. He gave it as part of the marriage portion of
his daughter, who married Sir Gervase Clifton, of Clifton, in the
county of Nottingham. After the lapse of rather more than
thirty years, it was sold (1663) to Sir Christopher Clapham, and
thirty seven years afterwards it was purchased by the first Duke
of Leeds, in whose family it still remains. In the inquisition or
survey of the lordship, or honour of Wakefield, in 1577> the
townships and all the hamlets included within its limits, are spe
cified with singular accuracy and distinctness. We shall give the
enumeration as far as it refers to Wakefield and its neighbour-
" The Rev. Mr. Watson, author of the History of Halifax.
2q

298 WAKEFIELD.
hood. V. Wakefield— V. Stanley, beneath which are placed the
hamlets of Ourthorpe, Wrenthorpe, Alverthorpe, Hanchcho,
Snapsthorpe, Thome— V. Horbury— V. Sandale, under which
are placed the hamlets of Milnthorpe, Woodthorpe, Newbiggin,
Pled wick— V. Crigglestone, after which are placed the hamlets of
Kettlethorpe, Chapelthorpe, Boynehill, Daw Green, Dirtcar,
Hollenthorpe— V. Walton vill, Over, Nether, Middle, Hamlet
Walton, Bretton West cum hamlet ibm— V. Osset and South-
wood Green, Gaukthorpe— V. Soothill, Clekinglay, Chitsele,
Heaton-Hanging, Earlsheaton. The rest of the enumeration
will be given in the history of each of the parishes included in
the survey.
We shall now proceed to give several descriptions of Wake
field from the writings of distinguished antiquaries, before we
present to the reader the particulars which we have been enabled
to collect of the history of the town.
First we shall give the description of old Leland. " Wake-
feld upon Calder ys a very quik market towne, and meately large ;
well served of flesch and fische, both from the se and by rivers,
whereof divers be thereabout at hande. So that al vitaile is very
good chepe there. A right honest man shal fare wel for two
pens a meale. In this towne is but one chefe chirche. There is
a chapel beside where was wont to be, anachorita in media urbe,
unde et aliquando inventa foecunda. There is also a chapel of
our Ladye on Calder bridge, wont to be celebrated a peregrinis. A
forrow lenght or more out of the towne, be scene dikes and bul-
warkes, et monticulis egestse terras indicium turris specularis-
wherby appeiith that ther hath bene a castel. The Guarines, "
Erles of Surrey, as I rede, were ons lordes of the towne. It
standeth now al by clothyng  These things I especially noted
in Wakefield. The faire bridge of stone of nine arches under
the which rennith the river of Calder; and on the est side of
this bridge, is a right goodly chapel of our Ladye, and two can-
tuaric priests founded in it of the fundacion of the townesmen as
sum say ; but the Dukes of Yorke were taken as founders for
obteyning the mortmagne. I harde one say, that a servant of
king Edwarde's (the fourth) father or els of the Erie of Ruthe
land, brother of King Edward the 4th, was a great doer of it.
There was a sore batell faught in the south feildes by this bridge ;
and yn the flite of the Duke of Yorkes parte, other the Duke
himself or his sun therle of Rutheland, was slayne a litle above

WAKEFIELD. 299
the barres beyond the bridge going up a clyving ground. At
this place is set up a cross in memoriani. The commune saying
is there, that the Erie wold have taken ther a poor woman's house
for socour, and she for fere shet the dore, and strait the Erie was
killed. The Lord Clifford for killing of men at this batail was
called the boucher. The principal chirche that now is in Wake
field, is but of a new worke, but is exceeding faire and large.
Sum think that wer as now is a chapel of ease at the other ende
of the towne, was ons the old paroch chirche. The vicarage at
the este end of the chirche gouble is larg and faire. It was the
parsonage house not many yeres syns ; for he that now lyvith is
the 4 or 5 vicare that hath been ther. Afore the impropriation
of this benefice to St. Stephane college at Westminster, the par
sonage was a great lyving ynsomuch that one of the Erles
Warines Lordes of Wakefield and much of the cuntery thereabout,
did give the parsonage to a sunne or nere kinsman of his, and he
made the most parte of the house wher the vicarage now is. A
quarter of a mile without Wakefeld apperith an hille of erthe cast
up, wher sum say that one of Erles Warines began to build, and
as faste as he builded violence of winde defaced the work. This
is like a fable. Sum say that it was nothing but a wind mille
hill. The place is now called Lohill. The towne of Wakefeld
streachith out al in lenght by est and west, and hath a faire area
for a market place. The building of the towne is meateley faire,
moste of tymbre, but sum of stone. Al the hole propech of the
towne stondith by course drapery. There be few townes yn the
inwarde partes of Yorkshire that hath a fairer site or soile about
it. There be plente of veines of se cole in the quarters about
Wakefeld." The second- description of this town is that of the celebrated
Camden, and in order to preserve his narrative unbroken we shall
give his account of Sandal, which he has interwoven with his
communication relative to Wakefield. " The Calder washes
Wakefield, famous for its woollen manufacture, the largeness of the
town, and the beauty of its buildings, its well frequented market
on the bridge, on which was erected a most beautiful chapel by
Edward IV. in memory of the persons there slain in battle. This
town formerly belonged to the Earls of Warren and Surrey, as
did also the neighbouring castle of Sandal, built by John Earl of
Warren, whose mind was never free from the solicitations of pas
sion to keep here safe from her husband, the wife of Thomas Earl

300 WAKEFIELD.
of Lancaster, with whom he had a criminal connection. Below
this town, when England was torn in pieces by civil wars which
preyed upon her vitals, among others slain by the Lancastrians
fell Richard Duke of York, father of Edward IV. who chose
rather to force fortune than to wait for her. A very extensive
territory round here is called the lordship of Wakefield, and has
for its seneschal one of the neighbouring nobility. This office
has often been held by the Saviles, whose family is very numerous
hereabouts, and is at present engaged by <6ir J. Savile, who has a
very handsome house not far off at Howley."* To this brief
description the continuator of Camden adds, " Wakefield is a
large town well situated on the south side of a hill, which inclines
to the Calder, here navigable. By the increase of trade and
manufactures, it has of late years been much improved, and an
act of parliament was obtained, about twelve years ago, for new
paving the town, which has caused it to be ornamented with
many good houses. In the street at right angles with Kirkgate
to the west, are the inns, some good modern houses, with the
church which is large and lofty, but the spire too short for the
lofty tower."
The last old topographical description which we shall quote is
that of Fuller. After calling the town " Merry Wakefield," he
says, " What peculiar cause of mirth this town hath above others
I do not know, and dare not too curiously enquire, lest I should
turn their mirth among themselves into anger against me. Sure
it is seated in a fruitful soil and cheap country ; and where good
cheer and company are the premises, mirth in common conse
quence will be the conclusion ; which if it doth not trespass in
time, cause, and measure, Heraclitus the sad philosopher may
perchance condemn, but St. Hilary the good father will surely
allow." +
From these descriptive notices, and from others which we have
adduced in the first book of the present work, we may come to
the following conclusions relative to the history of Wakefield.
There is little doubt that in Roman times there were settlements
of that wonderful people in the neighbourhood, (see p. 22,)
although not on the site of the town. In the Saxon times the
vast extent of its lordship, and the numerous berewics dependant
upon it, prove that it must have been a place of considerable con
sequence. The place to which Leland refers, as " an hill of erthe
• Camden, iii. 5. f Gough, iii. 39. $ Worthies in Yorkshire.

WAKEFIELD. 301
caste up," which he calls Lohill, and concerning which he gives
the curious tradition which will be found in our quotation from
his works, the writer has no doubt was of Saxon erection, and
points out the existence of a rude fortification, in the time of that
barbarous and sanguinary people. When the great earls of Warren
became the lords of the neighbourhood, they would in all proba
bility extend their patronage and protection to the town and its
inhabitants, and under their fostering care, there is every reason
to believe that it rapidly extended in population and consequence.
Of Sandal Castle we have already stated the origin ; one event
of some historic interest may be recorded concerning it in the
reign of Edward III. When that powerful monarch had collected
a fleet and an army, to reinstate Baliol upon the throne of Scot
land, from which he had been driven by the valour and patriotism
of the Bruce, Sandal Castle was assigned5 to the ex-monarch as
a residence, here he remained in tranquillity1 with the Countess
of Vesay, for six months, until he joined the expedition, the fate
of which terminated at once his hopes and his life. Two other
particulars which occurred in the same reign may be mentioned
of Wakefield, although one of them belongs rather to the depart
ment of ecclesiastical than civil history. By a charter dated
1357, Edward III. granted to William Kay, Williatti Bull, and
their successors for ever, the annual sum Of ten pounds, to perform
divine service in the Chapel of St. Mary, on the bridge at Wake
field ; and payment was secured from the produce of the towns
of Wakefield, Stanley, Osset, Pontefract, "Purston-Jackling, and
Water-Fryston. And five years afterwards, when the same mon
arch created his son Edmund de Langley, the Earl of Cambridge,
he assigned to him in augmentation of his revenue, the manor and
soke of Wakefield, with the remainder to John de Gandacum and
his heirs, and after them to Lionel de Antwerp and his heirs male.
This town then in these feudal times must often have presented
a most lively and animating scene, when visited by proud barons
and their mailed retainers with all their military magnificence, per
forming perhaps their devotions in the chapel on the bridge, dis
playing all the pomp and splendour of their power, and exercising
their prowess in the knightly exercises of the tournament. That
the fierce diversions of the latter were exhibited at Wakefield, is
evident from one very curious and interesting circumstance. In
the twenty-second year of his reign, Edward III. granted a
pardon under the great seal to Sir Richard de Goldesborough,

302 WAKEFIELD.
Sir John de Calverley, and certain other knights, for holding
justs at Wakefield contrary to his inhibition.
The author of Loidis and Elmete, has given to his readers
an inquisition of the demesnes belonging to the castle of Sandal,
taken in the time of the last Earl Warren. From this document
the following curious particulars are extracted. In the neigh
bourhood of the castle, there was a fish pond, but it was worth
nothing, because all the attempts of the owners to stock it were
rendered abortive, by some peculiar quality in the water. The
meadow ground in the neighbourhood of the castle was in an open
field, and was valued at five shillings per acre, the pasture ground
was inclosed, and was worth only six pence per acre. And
a fishery, consisting of a mill pond of four acres, was worth more
by almost one third per acre, than the best meadow ground.
It would appear that the jurisdiction of the lords of the
manor of Wakefield, was very extensive in feudal times, and that
they had the power of inflicting capital punishment on offenders,
for the Earls of Warren had Furcce or a gallows, at Wakefield,
and the lords had the superintendence of that execrable gibbet
law, which remained in force at Halifax until the reign of
Charles II.
Although another particular relative to Wakefield, has been
worn almost threadbare by repetition, it would be an unpardonable
omission not to insert it in this work. Roger Hoveden, himself
a Yorkshireman, relates, that in 1201, Eustace, abbot of Hay, in
Normandy, came into England preaching the duty of extending
the Sabbath from three o'clock on Saturday Afternoon, to sun
rising on Monday Morning, for which he pleaded the authority of
an epistle written by Christ, and found on the altar of St. Simon,
at Golgotha. The people of Yorkshire were however too intelli
gent to give credence to so bungling an imposture, and they
treated the fanatical monk as he deserved, but the historian at the
same time records the following prodigious invention, as a matter
of fact— he affirms that the miller of Wakefield, persisting to
grind his corn after the appointed hour of cessation, the corn was
turned into blood, so as to fill a large vessel, while the mill wheel
stood immovable against all the water in the Calder.
We have already (see p. 41,) given a full account of the
dreadful battle which was fought in the neighbourhood of Wake
field, between the Yorkists and the Lancastrians in the sanguinary
war of the Roses, and the murderous transactions which took

WAKEFIELD. 303
place on the bridge. To that account we shall only add, that
Sandal Castle must at that period have been very extensive, as
well as strongly fortified ; for if the language of our historians is to
be taken in an unqualified sense, it would seem that the several
thousand men who constituted the army of the duke of York, all
found shelter before the battle within its walls, and might there
have defied the utmost fury of their enemies. Of this castle,
which, from its proximity to Wakefield, is included within its
history, we shall give the following particulars, and then dismiss
the subject. Sandal Castle was granted by the crown to Sir
Edward Carey, knight, and was by him conveyed to Sir John
Savile, of Howley, knight, afterwards Lord Savile, and he con
veyed it to William Savile, of Wakefield, and John Hanson, of
Woodhouse. It was afterwards in the hands of the Beaumonts
of Whitley, for in the 14th of Charles I. Thomas Beaumont, Esq.
of Whitley, sold his park at Sandal, with all the appurtenances
and rights connected with it as parcel of the annexed possessions
of the duchy of Lancaster, and late parcel of the lands and
possessions of the county of York, and also a demolished and
ruinous building called Sandal Castle, &c. &c. to John Pollard,
servant to Francis Nevile, of Chevet, Esq. and to the said Francis
for the sum of eleven hundred and ten pounds. Prior to this
period, Sandal Castle was the occasional residence of the Saviles
of Thornhill, in whom according to the testimony of Camden, the
office of steward was almost hereditary.
In the reign of Henry VIII. Wakefield was unquestionably
by far the largest, the most populous, and the most flourishing
town in the district. Bradford and Leeds at this period we have
already seen were of equal magnitude, though the former was the
more lively and prosperous of the two. But Wakefield was
double the size of either of them. . And from the very curious,
though apparently insignificant circumstance that fish was
brought at that period from the sea, as a usual article of the food
of the inhabitants, it may be concluded that they were richer and
more accustomed to luxury than their neighbours. The fertility
of the soil, the abundance of its produce, and the cheapness of
provisions, are celebrated by each of the writers we have quoted ;
and there can be little doubt that Wakefield, at the period we are
alluding to, was the most eligible place of residence in the whole
West Riding of Yorkshire. From the language of Leland, more
particularly, it is evident that the town was respectable in its

304 WAKEFIELD.
appearance, houses of stone had begun to supersede the old build
ings of timber and plaister, and the progressive improvement of
the place testified to the spirit and comparative opulence of the
people. Of the old style of building in Wakefield, the most
interesting memorial is Heselden Hall, near the site of the old
St. John's Chapel, so called because it was the residence of a
family of that name, so early as the reign of Henry VI. It is
principally formed of timber, and has a double corridor of wood,
which once surrounded the whole interior quadrangle, the hall is
a fine timber apartment open to the roof, and in the great window
are still the remains of arms painted on glass.
The town of Wakefield suffered very severely in the seven
teenth century from the ravages of the plague. From the parish
register it appears to have commenced its devastations in August
1625, and to have continued there until January 1626. During
that period, there are entries of more than one hundred and thirty
persons, each of whom is distinguished as having died per pest
em, or de peste. In August 1645, the plague again made its
appearance, and continued in the town for twelve months, during
which time more than two hundred of the victims were buried in
the old church yard, besides others who died in the neighbour
hood and were buried where they died.
While referring to the parish register of Wakefield, we shall
present to our readers three extracts from that compilation,
which although of no very material consequence, will yet be
amusing and interesting to the inhabitants of the town. The
first extract will shew the solemn pomposity with which the
clergy of the period were accustomed to issue their preposterous
licences, to authorise some privileged individuals to eat meat in
Lent and all other fasting and fish days. There are two licences
of this description contained in the register, one of which we shall
give entire. " To all people to whom these presents shall come,
James Lister, vicar of Wakefeld and preacher of God's word,
sendeth greeting ; Whereas Alice Lister, wife of Richard Lister,
Clerke, who now sojourneth with her sonne William Faulden of
Wakefeld, by reason of her olde age and many yeares and stub-
borne and long continued sicknesse, is become so weake and her
stomache so colde, not able to digeste colde meates and fish, who
by counsel of phisicians is advised to abstaine from and to forbeare
the eating of all manner of fruites, fish and milke meates, know ye
therefore, for the causes aforesaide and for the better strengthen-

WAKEFIELD. 305
ing and recovering of her health, I, the saide James Lister, do
herebye give and grante libertie and licence to her, the said Alice
Lister, att her will and pleasure att all tymes, as well during the
tyme of Lent, and all other fasting daies and fish daies exhibiting
by the lawes, to eate flesh and to dress and eate such kind of flesh
as shall be best agreeing to her stomacke and weake appetite. In
witness hereof, I, the said James Lister have hereunto sett my
hand the eight daie of Febniarie in ye sixt yeare of the reigne of
oure Sovereigne Lord Charles, by the grace of God, King
of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, defender of the faithe,
&c. and in the year of our Lord God 1630. James Lister, Vicar."
This is a specimen of the manners of that age well worth preserv
ing. Abstinence from meat in Lent and on fasting days was, by
the common run of the people of the age, regarded as essential to
an admission into the kingdom of heaven — and the clergy who
then were indeed the guides and directors of an ignorant multi
tude, could alone enable the slaves of superstition to partake of
animal food on these prohibited seasons without violating the
dictates of conscience and religion. The mockery of solemnity,
the ecclesiastical dignity, and the assumption of majesty which
this licence exhibits, must be highly amusing to its readers.
The second extract shall be the certificate of the appointment
of a registrar : " Theise may certifie, that upon ye one and twen
tieth dav of September instant, the inhabitants of ye paresh of
Wakefeild did meet in Wakefeild church, and ye greater number
of them there present did make choise of and elect James Child of
Wakefeild, to be Regester of the Paresh of Wakefeild, according
to the acte of Parliament in that behalfe, provided of whome I do
here signifie my approbation, being a Justice of the Peace within
ye said Parish of Wakefeild, and accordingly hath sworne him
Regester for the saide paresh. Witnesse my hand yis xxii day of
September 1653. John Savile." Here then is another procla
mation in royal style for the appointment of a parish Registrar.
Truly our forefathers were wont to be wonderfully solemn upon
the most paltry occasions.
The third extract will prove the antiquity of the office of
Waits or town's musicians in Wakefield. " Memorandum y t ye
Waites of this towne of Wakefeild began their watch upon ye
17th day of October in ye yeare of Lord God 1670 ; theire
names are as followeth, Wm. Shaw, Thomas Shaw, and Thomas
Watson, fratres in uno."
2r

306 WAKEFIELD.
In the first part of this work we have given a full account of
the share which Wakefield had in the transactions and calamities
of the civil war between Charles I. and the parliament. To the
narrative we have already given we can only add, that whatever
interruption this contest may have caused the progress and pros
perity of the town, it was soon repaired, the inhabitants again
returned to their commercial pursuits, and Wakefield soon pre
sented the appearance of one of the most flourishing, industrious,
and happy places in the country.
The act of parliament which was obtained in 1698, by which
the Calder was made navigable to Wakefield, as well as the Aire
to Leeds, by the Aire and Calder Navigation Company, materially
subserved the convenience and the prosperity of the town, while
the act for lighting and paving, obtained in the middle of the
following century, contributed to the beauty and uniformity of
its appearance. We shall now throw together a number of miscellaneous par
ticulars relative to occurrences which have transpired in Wake
field to the present day. In 1714 one third of the spire of the
church was blown down by a tremendous tempest, and it was not
completely restored until many years afterwards. In 1778 the
inhabitants, desirous of enjoying tintinabulary harmony in their
passage to their respective places of worship on Sunday, and of
arousing the echoes of the neighbourhood to notes of joy on all
occasions of public exultation, empowered the church wardens to
contract with Messrs. Pack and Chapman, of London, to exchange
the old bells which were hung in 1739, for a new peal of eight,
the tenor to weigh twenty-four hundred weight, and the rest in
proportion. These bells were displaced in' 1817 by the present
musical peal of ten bells from the foundry of Mr. Mears of Lon
don, who on that occasion presented the church wardens with a
peal of twelve hand bells for the use of the ringers for the time
being. The year 1 765 was an important era in the history of Wake
field, for on the twenty-seventh of March in that year was held
the first fortnight cattle and sheep fair. The success of this
institution aroused the envy of the vicinity. On the second of
April, 1766, the inhabitants of Adwalton gave a decisive proof of
their hostility, and attempted to preserve their own interests by
sacrificing those of Wakefield. They published a pompous pro
clamation, in which they declared that the institution of a new

WAKEFIELD. 307
fair was illegal, and they announced their determination to bring
actions at law against all persons by whom such intended meet
ings at Wakefield should be held, " because they would be highly
prejudicial to the neighbouring fairs and markets at Adwalton,"
which they stated to be held by virtue of a royal charter. The
people at Wakefield took no notice of this useless blustering, they
were fully aware of the vastly superior advantages of their situa
tion for all the purposes of general traffic, and they have witnessed
the gradual advance of their market and fair in consequence and
value, while that at Adwalton has constantly diminished in im
portance, although it is still frequented by a considerable number
of dealers and purchasers.
This will be the proper place to refer to a proceeding of a
somewhat similar, but of a much more important character, which-
occurred at a much later period. Wakefield, like Leeds and
many other large towns, is cursed with a Soke imposed in ages
when the general rights of the people were completely disre
garded, when the most absurd monopolies were instituted, and
the most injurious restrictions were imposed for the emolu
ment of the few at the expense of the advantage of the many.
Since the jurisdiction of the soke at Wakefield is very extensive,
the grievance excited continual murmuring, and at length pro
duced a formal resistance. The inhabitants of Osset and
Gawthorpe particularly signalized themselves by their attempt
to deliver themselves from the galling burden, and they adopted
legal means to secure their emancipation. In 1816, in two-causes
tried in the Duchy Court of Lancaster, they were released from
the operation of the soke ; both Mr. Justice Bayley, Mr. Baron
Richards, and the Chancellor of the Duchy, uniting in the conclu
sion, that although their ancestors had suffered the imposition,
they were not legally liable to its influence. But this decision
was by no means final. The cause was dragged through a long
process of tedious and expensive litigation, and the proceedings
were not brought to a conclusion until 1826. In the month of
March in that year, the cause was determined at York, before
Mr. Justice Bayley and a special jury, in favour of the soke, by a
verdict for the plaintiffs -Sir Edward Dodsworth, Bart. Godfrey
Wentworth Wentworth, Esq. Sir William Pilkington, Bart, and
Jose Luis Fernandez the miller. The defendants were William
Ingham, Charles Adams, and Joseph Smith, Esquires, of Ossett.
The places which the plaintiffs applied to have declared as within

308 WAKEFIELD.
the limits of the soke were, Horbury, Ossett cum Gawthorpe,
Alverthorpe cum Thornes, Wakefield, Stanley cum Wrenthorpe,
Sandal, Criggleston, and New Miller Dam— and the verdict
decided that the inhabitants of all these places were to be com
pelled to grind their corn whether for their own domestic
consumption, or as an article of trade at the Soke Mills. This
is one of the grossest injuries and one of the most offensive hard
ships which can possibly be imposed upon an industrious and
trading community ; and it would be well for the country at large
if some equitable and final measure could be devised for the com
plete abolition of these offensive monopolies, which could only be
imposed by ignorance and selfishness, and can no longer be
endured in an enlightened age. This decision has saddled a vast
number of individuals with shameful losses and intolerable incon
venience. Wakefield Bridge is a very handsome and striking edifice, the
masonry is most excellent, on account of the great width of the
Calder, it is very long, consisting of eight arches, it was built in
the reign of Edward III. and is a very fine specimen of the civil
architecture of the age. The ancient chapel in the centre of this
bridge, projecting from the eastern side into the watercourse,
ornamented with the richest decorations of pointed architecture,
and certainly one of the most beautiful edifices in the kingdom,
will be described in its proper place in this work, and the contro
versy upon the subject of its origin will be clearly stated to the
reader. The manor house near the church is undeserving of
remark. The rectory house is a very extensive building of brick
and stone, recently occupied as a ladies' boarding school ; and the
vicarage house, of which we have already given Leland's descrip
tion, is close by the rectory house in the lower part of the vicar
age croft. In 1769, several additions were made to it, and a
subscription was raised to put it into complete repair, the names
of the donors are recorded on a tablet fixed against a pillar in the
chancel of the church. The vicarage croft is now used as a bury
ing ground. This leads us to notice the change which has taken
place in Wakefield relative to the interment of the dead. The
church yard, though it must have been originally very large when
compared with the size of the town, soon became insufficient for
the increasing population, and accordingly other places of sepul
ture were obliged to be provided. Besides them, during the time
of the plague, it appears that many of its victims were interred

WAKEFIELD. 309
near the places where they died, this was particularly the case in
the neighbourhood of Potovens, a small hamlet about two miles
from the town. There was a well to which the people flocked
under the hope of experiencing some healing properties of its
water, which had been celebrated by tradition. Many had their
graves near this well, where remains have been found within a
few years. There was also a burying ground in or near what is
called the Fall Ings over the bridge, and notices of burials at this
place are to be found in the parish register. Several nonconfor
mists were buried in a piece of ground which is now a garden
attached to the house of Mr. Spicer, in Kirkgate, and at the time
when this house was built by the late Frances Maude, Esq. were
found several tombstones recording the names of those whose
bodies were there deposited. That piece of ground which adjoins
the rectory and vicarage houses, had for several years been used,
through permission of the different vicars, as an additional burial
ground, and on the 22nd of February, this ground was conveyed
by the Rev. S. Sharp, the vicar, to certain trustees for the use of
the inhabitants, in exchange for upwards of two acres of land on
Wakefield Outwood, in the graveship of Alverthorpe, near
Alverthorpe-lane-end, and for the tithes thereof for the use of
himself and his successors. The ground was consecrated by the
archbishop of York, and is now commonly used as a place of
interment.* And here we must remark that the inhabitants of the towns
in this district, though distinguished by the very laudable atten
tion they have paid to the improvement of their respective locali
ties, seem to have completely overlooked the existence of one
odious practice, which deserves to be designated a nuisance offen
sive to the sight and injurious to the health, and that is the prac
tice of having their places for the burial of the dead in the centre
of their towns. These places, with strange inconsistency, are
generally fixed in the midst of the densest population and the
most crowded neighbourhoods, it is scarcely possible to inter a
corpse without disturbing the relics of the entombed, the most
revolting scenes are consequently frequently witnessed, and the
surrounding atmosphere has been loaded with a pestiferous efflu
vium. The burying grounds both of Leeds and Wakefield, and
especially of the former, are particularly liable to these observa
tions. How much better would it be if the custom prevailing in
* Sisson'a Historical Sketch of Wakefield Church, 71.

310 WAKEFIELD.
some continental countries was adopted in England, if our burial
grounds were all in the neighbourhood, instead of being in the
centre of the towns, if thus sufficient space were to be afforded to
prevent the intolerable nuisances to which we have alluded, if
thus the danger of generating or increasing contagion were to be
avoided, and if the grounds in which the last melancholy offices
of kindness are performed to the remains of the departed, like the
Necropolis near Liverpool, were to be laid out in a style corres
ponding with their mournful purpose, and with the feelings of
those by whom they are visited.
The greatest improvement that ever was effected in the town
and neighbourhood of Wakefield, was the erection of St. John's
Church and the neighbouring houses. Although the reader must
be referred for an account of the church to the next book, it may
here be stated, that the ground upon which it stands was left by
legacy for the purpose by a widow lady, of the name of Newstead,
together with a thousand pounds to assist in the support of
a minister.* The accomplishment of her object, however, was
* While we are referring to the affairs of the church in Wakefield we shall
present to our readers a document which may he highly useful to them in the way
of reference, and without which this account of Wakefield would he very incom.
plete. It is the terrier of the Tithes. " A true and perfect Copy of the Terrier,
of all the houses, rights, &c. belonging to the Vicarage of Wakefield, given in at
the primary visitation of the most Reverend Father in God, Edward, by Divine
Providence, Lord Archbishop of York, Primate of England and Metropolitan,
holden at Wakefield, the 23rd day of June, 1809  By the present Vicar, Church
wardens and other substantial inhabitants of the same, whose names are hereunto
subscribed. A Vicarage House, now built with stone and brick, and covered with
stone, containing thirteen rooms, kitchen, brew-house, cellar, a stable and hay
chamber, built with brick and covered with stone. A garden and a croft adjoin
ing, together about one acre, fenced with part stone and part brick wall. Also
another little Croft or Paddock at the back of the houBe, containing about one
rood, and lying between a close and a garden belonging to Peregrine Wentworth,
Esq. fenced with part pailed and part brick wall, and one part hedged. Also a
moiety of the Cliffield Tythe given to the Vicarage by the last will and testament
of Wm. Dennison, Gent. Also the interest of £100, given by Edward Watkin-
son out of a house or houses now occupied by Mr. Thos. Crowther and Tenants in
Westgate. Also the fifth part of some lands given by Richard Wilson, which is
at present one pound six shillings and ten pence per ann. Also by the impropria*
tors by virtue of an award in a, controversy between them and a, former Vicar,
concerning the Chancel, forty shillings yearly, to be paid at Lady Day and Michael
mas, equal payments. Also a composition for Tythe Herbage of a piece of ground
lying near Kirkthorpe on the other side of the river, called Deffers, five shillings,
to be paid at Easter, yearly, now in the occupation of John Smyth, Esq. Also by

WAKEFIELD. 311
a long time delayed, by a vexatious litigation ; but when the
property of the testatrix was purchased by Messrs. Maude & Lee,
the will of Mr. Smyth, late of Heath, for preaching Two Charity Sermons, one in
June, the other in December, and for catechising the charity children, forty shil
lings per annum. Also in pursuance of an Act of Parliament made and passed in
the thirty third year of his present Majesty, entitled an Act for dividing and
inclosing the open common fields^ ings, commons and waste grounds, within the
townships or graveships of Wakefield, Stanley, Wrenthorpe and Thornes, in the
Parish of Wakefield, in the West-Riding of the County of York, the following
allotments were by the Commissioners under the said inclosure, set out and
awarded to the Vicar of Wakefield, in lieu of all vicarial or small tythes and eccle
siastical dues, moduses, compositions, or other payments in lieu of vicarial or small
tythes and of all tythes of what nature or kind soever, (mortuaries, easter offerings
and surplice fees excepted) which arise and grow due to the Vicar within the said
town or townships, No. 90 on the plan containing 5a. Ir. 27p. situate upon Whin-
ney Moor, bounded eastward by old inclosures, westward by Horbury road, and
southward by Thornes road. Also No. 479, containing 9a. Or. 5p. situate upon
the Outwood, near Carr Gate, bounded eastward and southward by an allotment
intended to be awarded to the Duke of Leeds, westward by Lawns, and southward
by old inclosures, and an allotment intended to be awarded to the Duke of Leeds.
Also, No. 505 containing 80a. Ir. Op. (which includes an incroachment, containing
0a. 2r. 13p.) situate upon the Outwood, near Spring Well Hill, bounded eastward
by Potovens road and allotments intended to be severally accorded to John Wool
len and Ann his wife, Mary Bethia Horton, John Milnes, the Rev. Isaac Tyson,
and Mary Bethia his wife, and Thomas Johnson and Martha his wife, William
Sharp, Joseph Young, Samuel Smalpage and the Duke of Leeds, westward by
allotments intended to be severally awarded to the Duke of Leeds and John
Eadon, northward by the coal road and allotments intended to be severally award
ed to George Waugh, Eliz. Smithson, Thomas Beaumont, Richard Collet, Joseph
Holdsworth, and Thomas Chippendale (in trust for John Gill,) and Shepley Wat
son, and southward by allotments intended to be severally awarded to Matthew
Harper, Robert Pearson, Tho, and Wm. Tew, John Woollen and Ann his wife,
Mary Bethia Horton, John Milnes, the Rev. Isaac Tyson and Mary Bethia his
wife, Thomas Johnson and Martha his wife, Samuel Land, the Duke of Leeds and
John Eadon. Also No. 609 containing 50a. Ir. Op. (which includes an incroach
ment containing 1a. Ir. 9p.) situate on the Outwood near the Lawns, bounded
eastward by allotments intended to be severally awarded to the devisees of Joseph
Issot, John Ridsdale, the Trustees of Stanley and Alverthorpe Poor, the Duke of
Leeds and Lingwell Gate Road, westward by Lawns Road and allotments intended
to be severally awarded for clay for the roads, the Duke of Leeds, John Parker
-and old inclosures, northward by Lawns road and allotments intended to be
severally awarded to the Duke of Leeds and John Ridsdale, and southward by
allotments intended to be severally awarded to Benjamin Mitchell, William Brit-
tlebank, the devisees of David Dunny, Messrs. John Lee, Shepley Watson, and
Joseph Armytage, Robert Pearson, William Beal, the Trustees of Stanley and
Alverthorpe Poor, John Parker, the Duke of Leeds, Elizabeth Harrison and Grand
Stand Road. Also No. 837 containing 17a. 3r. 30p. situate upon the Outwood

312 WAKEFIELD.
those gentlemen, in concurrence with some other benevolent and
opulent individuals, procured an act of parliament for building
the church. This very elegant sacred edifice is connected with
a handsome square and place, which "for beauty of situation,
elevation of buildings, regulation of plan, and tasteful arrangment
of ground, is equal, if not superior, to any thing of the kind in
the county of York.
The public buildings in Wakefield are very numerous, and
Some of them are eminently deserving of attention. The House
of Correction, at the bottom of Westgate, to which criminals are
sent as the common gaol of the West Riding, includes an im
mense extent of buildings, which however large and however
near Cockpit Houses, bounded eastward by Lee Moor Road and the Township of
Stanley, westward by Cockpit Houses Road, northward by allotments intended to
be severally awarded to the Duke of Leeds, Thomas Pepper, Joseph Spink and
the Township of Stanley, and southward by Upper Lake Lock Road, and the
Township of Stanley. Also No. 867 containing 13a. 3r. 35p. situate upon the
Outwood near Cockpit Houses, bounded eastward by an allotment intended to be
awarded to Lady Irwin, westward by Lee Moor Road, northward by Irwin's road,
and southward by an allotment intended to be awarded to the proprietors of the
coal road. Also No. 886 containing 17a. Ir. 21p. situate upon the Outwood near
Cockpit Houses, bounded eastward by an allotment intended to bo awarded to the
Duke of Leeds, westward by Upper Lake Lock Road, and an allotment intended
to be awarded to Messrs. John Lee and Shepley Watson, northward by allotments
intended to be severally awarded to the Proprietors of the Coal Road and Messrs.
John Lee and Shepley Watson, and southward by Lower Lake Lock Road. Also
the tythe of all the fruits of gardens, orchards and crofts, together with mortua
ries, surplice dues, easter offerings and small tythes, (excepting wool) throughout
the Chapelry of Horbury. Also the Church Furniture, consisting of eight bells, a
clock and chimes, organ, three large and seven small brass candlesticks. — Also the
communion plate, viz. One large silver flaggon, gilt ; The gift of Mrs. Hannah
Redshaw to Wakefield Church, the 25th Dec. 1723. One large silver flaggon,
gilt, Magno Dei Triuni, Thomas Scott, indigni hujus Ecclesiae Vicarii donarium.
Cwjus animce omniumque ex hoc poculo digne bibentium propitius sit Deus.
One large silver flaggon, gilt, Deo et Ecclesioe de Wakefield, 1743. Two small
silver flaggons, Wakefield, 1767. One silver cup, " The words which I speak
are spirit and life." St. John, vi. 63. One silver cup, " My blood is drink
indeed;1 St. John, vi. 55. A cup and salver, 1740. One large Silver Dish 47 oz.
10 dwts. Deo et Ecclesicn de Wakefield D.D.D Gulielmus Malin, M.B. $ P.
Anno Domini, 1690. One salver, " My flesh is meat indeed," St. John, vi.
55. One ditto, " Jesus said I am the bread of Life," St. John vi. 48. All the
above plate are silver and gilt ; total 464 oz. 18 dwts. The Church and Church
Yard Fence are repaired at the charge of the Parish, excepting the South and
Middle Chancel, the former of which is repaired by the family of Mr. Pilkington
late of Stanley, and the other by the Impropriators of the Great Tythes. The
Clerk and Sexton paid by the Parish and appointed by the Vicar.

WAKEFIELD. 313
commodious, are generally filled with the unhappy beings whose
crimes have rendered them amenable to the laws of their country.
The regulations under which this establishment is conducted are
deservedly regarded as exhibiting at once the humanity and the
wisdom of their authors, but it will be long before these establish
ments effectually subserve the prevention, as well as the punish
ment of crime. The Court House in Wood Street is a very
beautiful and commodious structure. Its front consists of a very
noble portico of four fluted Doric columns, supporting an entabla
ture and pediment ; within the pediment are the royal arms, and
on the apex is a statue of justice ; the interior arrangements are
very complete, and admirably adapted for its purpose— the admi
nistration of justice by the West Riding Magistrates in the
neighbourhood once a week, and the holding of the Quarter
Sessions of the Riding once a year. A little to the south east of
the Court House are The Public Buildings, a neat structure,
with a rustic basement and attached Ionic columns to the upper
story, the basement contains a library and news-room, while the
upper story contains an excellent room adapted for concerts,
assemblies, and other public amusements. The Public Buildings
were erected by subscription. The Corn Exchange, placed in a
commanding situation at the top of Westgate, is well adapted to
the first Corn Market in the North of England, and does honour
to the taste and spirit of its projectors and proprietors. The
Tammy Hall, for the exhibition and sale of woollen stuffs, in
Wood Street, is little used for its original purpose, the stuff trade
having migrated from Wakefield to Halifax and Bradford, espe
cially to the latter place. The cattle fair is held in the Upper
Ings, a place which is admirably adapted for the purpose. The
theatre in Westgate, which was built by the celebrated Tate
Wilkinson, scarcely deserves a single observation. The market
place, though of very limited dimensions and scarcely correspond
ing with the importance of the town, has in its centre a handsome
Doric cross, with a dome supported by an open colonnade, and
containing a spacious apartment, in which the commissioners of
the streets hold their meetings and other public business is trans
acted. The Lunatic Asylum on East Moor, opened Nov. 23,
1818, which is one of the principal ornaments of the county, the
Dispensary, the House of Recovery, the Grammar School founded
in 1592, and the Charity School, will be described in their proper
places in the subsequent parts of this work.
2s

314 WAKEFIELD.
The inhabitants of Wakefield have rivalled those of the rest of
the towns in the district in their public spirited attention to general
improvement and convenience. They have supported a newspaper
since 1803, under the title of the Wakefield and Halifax Journal,
they have established almost every institution which can subserve
the cause of piety and benevolence, they have formed a Gas Com
pany which commenced operations on January 20th, 1823, they
have a savings' bank for the benefit of the poor, their schools are
numerous and liberally supported, and the inhabitants are gene
rally distinguished by their solicitude to promote the great objects
of social and moral excellence.
Wakefield has not increased in population and prosperity in
the same ratio with the other towns in the West Riding of York
shire, nor has its trade so rapidly extended. A dreadful shock
was given to the prosperity of this town by the failure of the
bank of Messrs. Wentworth, Chaloner, and Rishworths in 1825,
from which the town has not yet recovered, and some disastrous
events of a similar description which have since occurred, have
. contributed to the same result. Yet the trade of Wakefield in
corn and cattle and wool is very extensive ; there is very consider
able wealth in the town and its neighbourhood ; there is a more
general diffusion of comfort than in most other places in the dis
trict, and both the appearance of the town and the manners of the
inhabitants are indubitably superior to those of the places which
are exclusively peopled by clothiers. It must be mentioned in
conclusion that the inland trade of Wakefield by means of the Aire
and Calder navigation, and the Calder and Hebble navigation, is
immense. The inhabitants of Wakefield have generally been distin
guished by their impartial intelligence, and their enlightened
submission to the laws ; and there has perhaps been less political
excitement in this town than in any other in the district. Dur
ing the wars of the French revolution, their loyalty was displayed
in the well appointed corps of volunteers which they armed and
equipped for the defence of the country, and in their steady
attachment to the cause of patriotism and national independence.
There have been fewer explosions of popular violence in this town
than in any other part of the province which forms the subject of
our investigations. Wakefield was constituted a borough of the
second class under the reform act, and was endowed with the pri
vilege of sending one member to parliament. At the election in

WAKEFIELD. 315
1832, no opposition was attempted against Mr. Gaskell, who was
returned without any of the usual clashing of party violence and
public opinion, and his conduct in the House of Commons has
hitherto accorded with the interests, and has justified the choice
of his constituents.
The ravages of the cholera in Wakefield in 1832 were by no
means formidable, except in the House of Correction, where the
number and the previously vicious habits of many of the inmates
rendered them peculiarly liable to such a visitation.
The delightful situation, the beautiful environs, the general
cleanliness, the width of the streets, the excellence of the build
ings, and the spirit of refinement, intelligence, hospitality, and
religion of the inhabitants, all combine to render Wakefield by far
the most agreeable town in this district, and to render it inferior
to none of equal extent and»equal population in the kingdom.
ALVERTHORPE WITH THORNES constitutes a town
ship, and in each of the villages a new church has been erected by
the commissioners. These edifices will be described in the next
book. The Yorkshire Dissenters' Grammar School at Silcoates
House, an institution of great importance and utility, will also be
referred to in our Literary Department, together with the Free
School at Alverthorpe founded in 1788.
HORBURY is delightfully situated ou the summit of a hill,
commanding a most extensive and beautiful prospect. There is
no doubt that it was a place of importance in Saxon times ; its
name denotes the castle of Hor, its Saxon proprietor or founder,
and the remains of the fort are still discernible near the mill. We
shall shortly have occasion to allude to the extraordinary munifi
cence of Mr. Carr, a native of Horbury, and one of the most
eminent architects of his age, who, in the new church, erected
under his direction and at his expense, has left behind him a
durable monument of his taste and munificence.
STANLEY WITH WRENTHORPE is only remarkable
for its new church, erected under the auspices of the parliamen
tary commissioners. In this township is the field celebrated in
traditional history as the place where Robin' Hood, Little John,
and Scarlet, fought the Pinder of Wakefield ; the place is yet
called Pinder's Field. We have already referred to the fact that a
Roman station formerly existed at this place.
In 1697, at Lingwell Gate, in this township, were found a
number of clay moulds for Roman coins, all of such emperors in

316 WAKEFIELD.
whose reigns the money is known to have been counterfeited.
There is no doubt that the plaGe has taken its name from the
Lingones, quartered at Olicana, and wall, a corruption of vallum.
Mr. Pitt, of Wakefield, in March 1821, presented to the Society
of Antiquaries a number of similar clay moulds, which were
turned up by a plough, and of which as many were found as would
have filled a wheelbarrow. Several coins were found in the
moulds. The same gentleman at the same time sent to the same
society sixteen Roman copper coins, found in an earthen vessel in
a field about a mile from Lingwell Gate, on the estate of the
Marquess of Hertford.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF WAKEFIELD.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Alverthorpe with Thomes, . . 3,105 3,756 4,448 4,859
Horbury,  2,101 ' 2,356 2,475 2,400
Stanley with Wrenthorpe, . . 3,260 3,769 4,620 5,047
Wakefield,  8,131 8,593 10,764 12,232
Total,  24,538

317

CHAPTER VIII.
THE PARISHES OF DEWSBURY, ARDSLEY, BATLEY,
AND WOODCHURCH.

SECTION I. THE PARISH OF DEWSBURY.
The ancient fame of Dewsbury arises from ecclesiastical and
not from civil events, and therefore belongs rather to the second
than the first book of our work. In Saxon times it was one of
the most extensive and important parishes in England, com
prising an area of four hundred miles, and including what are
now the parishes of Thornhill, Burton, Almondbury, Kirkheaton,
Huddersfield, Bradford, Mirfield, and Halifax, extending in fact
to the confines of Lancashire and the borders of the parish of
Whalley- With the preaching of Paulinus, the success of his
efforts, and the baptism of an immense number of Saxon barba
rians, the present book has no connexion, these facts will be found
described in our subsequent pages. We have only to state at pre
sent that the dignity of Dewsbury involved no great extent of
population, no remarkable affluence, and no certain and evident
prosperity. For we shall soon see that the population was
limited, the value of the place by no means equalled that of most
of its neighbours, and long before the age of the Conquest, Dews
bury was in a state of progressive decline.
It has been conjectured, and apparently on good grounds, that
the Romans had some small establishment at Dewsbury. A
Roman spear was found some years ago upon the estate of Mr.
Halliley ; and in 1821, when an excavation was made for the
purpose of laying some foundations for offices, a small building of
stone was discovered, covered with a strong arch, about three feet
below the surface of the ground ; and at a short distance from the
building an ancient well walled round with masonry, about eight
yards deep, filled up with rubble stones, and supposed to have

318 DEWSBURY.
remained for many centuries in a state of obscurity and use-
lessness. The following account is given of Dewsbury in Doomsday
Book. " Likewise in Deusberia, there are three carucates to be
taxed, which two ploughs may till. This land belongs to Wake
field, yet King Edward had in it a manor. It now belongs to
the king, and there are six villanes and two bordars with four
ploughs, a priest and a church. The whole manor is four qua
rentens long and six broad. In the time of King Edward the
value was ten shillings, the same now."* Dewsbury then, though
the centre of so extensive a parish, must have become a mean
and a miserable place, with a church, the monument of its ancient
importance in the time which followed the preaching of Paulinus,
and a single priest to administer the ordinances of religion
With all due deference to those antiquarians who have sup
posed that the name of Dewsbury is exclusively derived from its
first Saxon proprietor, we cannot but believe that it obtained its
designation from the success and the residence of Paulinus, and
that from thence it was called Duis-borough, God's town. This
supposition is rendered almost certain by the orthography of the
word in Doomsday Book. Upon this subject old Camden says,
" Leaving these, the Calder passes by Kirldees, once a nunnery,
and the burying place of that most generous robber, Robert
Hood, makes its way to Dewsborough, situate under a high hill.
Whether it takes its name from Dui, the local deity before men
tioned, the name certainly implies as much, signifying Dui's
town, and it was considerable in the infancy of the rising church
among the Saxons in this province."! The Saxon antiquities at
Dewsbury we have already described, (see p. 34.) Whatever was
the consequence of the town in the early part of Saxon history, it
appears, for some reasons which cannot now be conjectured, to
have very rapidly decayed ; from the persons said to have been
resident in it at the time of the Conquest, its population appears
at that period to have consisted of not more than eighty indivi
duals ; it became in a great measure subordinate to Wakefield,
and it has only been within the last century that it has arisen
into commercial opulence and importance. For these facts it is
difficult to account. It is placed in the fruitful valley of the
Calder, whose navigable stream now subserves its convenience
and its wealth, and its central and most eligible situation might
" Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 16. -f Cam. Brit. iii. 5.

DEWSBURY. 319
have been supposed likely to have preserved and increased its con
sequence. Dewsbury, like Wakefield, was an ancient demesne of the
crown, it came into the family of the Earls of Warren about the
reign of Henry I. and the rectory, like several other of the great
Saxon benefices, had a manor attached to it, which until the last
half century has been distinguished by the name of the rectory
manor. We are informed in the history of the county of York,* that
a superstitious practice of very considerable antiquity still exists
here, which consists in ringing the large bell of the church at
midnight on Christmas eve, and this knell is called the devil's
passing bell. This practice is undoubtedly a relic of papal super
stition, and most probably originated in some invention or impos
ture of monkery, greedily received by a credulous people, although
its character and object have long since been forgotten.
In the history of Dewsbury there is less to interest than in
any other town in the district. It appears to have continued in
comparative insignificance until the commencement of the eight
eenth century, when the population of the neighbourhood began
rapidly to increase, and valuable and successful manufactures
were introduced. A charter for a market was obtained at Dews
bury in 1740, and the extension of the navigation of the Calder
to Salter Hebble, in 1760, must have been a decisive epoch in the
commercial prosperity of the town. Since that auspicious period,
the communication of Dewsbury, by means of canals, has been
immensely extended, it now reaches not only to the eastern but
to the western sea, and goods can not only be forwarded by this
very eligible conveyance to Wakefield, to Leeds, to Selby, and to
Hull, but to Huddersfield, to Manchester, and to all the commer
cial emporiums of Lancashire.
Since of the ancient church at Dewsbury and of its recent
repairs, of the modern episcopal and dissenting edifices in the
parish, and of the free schools, and other educational establish
ments, descriptions will be given in our ecclesiastical and literary
departments, we have little more to add concerning this town
than that it is one of the most flourishing places in the whole
West Riding of Yorkshire ; it has rapidly expanded from a village
to a considerable town, it contains many extensive establishments
for the manufacture of blankets, woollen cloths, and carpets, its
* Bv Mr. Baines.

320 DEWSBURY.
market is well frequented, its wealth is very considerable, it has
an old established and excellent bank, in 1829 its inhabitants
found themselves sufficiently opulent to light their town with gas,
by the opening of the new road about thirteen years ago to Leeds,
(an object which was accomplished by a few public spirited inha
bitants,) the interest of the town has been very materially sub
served, and there is very little doubt that in a few more years
Dewsbury will rival, and perhaps exceed Wakefield, in the extent
of its business and the number of its population.
We may here relieve the order of our narrative by relating
an affecting, circumstance which occurred in this town in the
year 1826. On the night of November 18, the dye-house of
Messrs. Halliley, Son and Brooke, was discovered to be on fire
by the watchman, who immediately called to his assistance Wil
liam Hanson, one of the company's overlookers, a faithful servant
who had been in their employment thirty-three years. When
Hanson saw the building in flames he received such a dreadful
shock that he fell to the ground a corpse. Still more affecting
and remarkable was the sequel of this occurrence. On the follow
ing day, while Mr. Wigglesworth, the coroner, was preparing to
hold an inquest on the body, he was suddenly seized with a fit of
apoplexy ; he fell in the presence of the jury into the arms of
Mr. Brooks and died in a few hours afterwards.
The inhabitants of Dewsbury, as might be supposed from their
commercial enterprise and success, are extremely well informed
and mentally active, the diffusion of education has opened to the
operative population the means of acquiring information upon
almost every topic of general, political, and scientific importance,
the spirit of inquiry has been energetic and successful to a very
remarkable degree, and there are persons to be found in Dews
bury, who for the enlargement of their views, the extent and
variety of their knowledge, and the vigorous power of their
expression, are at any rate equal to many of those who occupy
higher stations and assume far more sounding pretensions.
Although the situation of Dewsbury is naturally highly fertile
and salubrious — placed at the foot of a lofty elevation to the east,
environed to the north and west with gently undulating hills,
with the lovely valley of the Calder to the south, bounded with
hanging woods, the town itself is one of the most disagreable in
the district, dusty in summer and dirty in winter, most of the
houses discoloured and disfigured by smoke, and laid out upon no

DEWSBURY. 321
regular plan and with no rectilinear streets. There are, however,
some fine residences in the neighbourhood, and if the manners of
the inhabitants are not so refined as in some other places, they
are at any rate recommended by sincerity and honesty. Some of
the shops in Dewsbury are far more spacious than might have
been expected from the dimensions and character of the town.
The magistrates who conduct the administration of justice
hold their meetings at the George Hotel. The police is efficient
and'well arranged. The remaining townships in the parish of
Dewsbury have little to distinguish them in this history, and that
little belongs exclusively to the ecclesiastical department. Osset
is a large manufacturing village, situated on the hill overlooking
the valley of the Calder, between Dewsbury and Wakefield, with
a chapel of ease to the parish, and places of worship belonging to
the Congregationalists and Wesleyan Methodists. To the ineffec
tual attempt of the inhabitants of this village to liberate them
selves from the most injurious jurisdiction of the Wakefield Soke,
we have already directed the attention of the reader. Of Hakts-
head cum Clifton we have had occasion to speak in the
chapter upon Saxon antiquities, and in the next book it will
occupy rather a prominent place, for although Kirklees Hall and
Nunnery are not within the boundaries of our district, we shall
transgress our limits for the purpose of presenting a short account
of the latter. It only belongs to the present place to state, that
after the dissolution, the site of the nunnery was given to the
Ramsdens, that in the first year of the reign of Elizabeth it
became the property of Robert Pilkington, and that seven years
afterwards it was alienated to John Armitage, in whose family
the place remains to the present day. The priory continued to
be the residence of the owners of this estate until the time of
James I. when they removed to the present magnificent mansion
now occupied by Sir George Armitage, Bart. Of Soothill,*
Earl's Heaton, and Hanging Heaton, nothing can be related
which will interest the reader.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF DEWSBURY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Dewsbury,  4,566 5,059 6,380 8,272
Osset,  3,424 4,083 4,775 5,325
Soothill,  2,134 2,609 3,099 3,849
Hartshead cum Clifton,  1,628 1,728 2,007 2,408
Total,  19,854
* Soothill Hall we allude to under the head of Howley. See also p. 326.
2 T

322

ARDSLEY.

Ahdsley is mentioned in the following terms in Doomsday
Book. " In Erdeslawe Alric and Gerneter had five carucates of
land and three oxgangs to be taxed, where there may be three
ploughs. Suuen now has it of Ilbert himself. One plough there.
Wood pasture one mile long and one broad. Value in King
Edward's time thirty shillings, now ten shillings."*
Ardsley comprises two districts — that nearest the Roman
road, containing the village so called, and the church, is East
Ardsley — the other containing Lee Fair, Westerton, Tingley,
Topcliffe, &c. is West Ardsley. Each of these places has a parish
church, to which we shall refer in the next part of this work.
The Manor House at Ardsley, now tenanted by a labouring man,
was once the seat of the Copleys, and possessed the usual appen
dages which belonged to a family of consequence. Under the
pinnacle of the gable end is the date 1622. The ancient Vicar
age House is near the church, and is one of the most interesting
specimens of the style of architecture prevailing in the age of
Cromwell. Ardsley has been celebrated as the birth place of one
of the most extraordinary and eccentric individuals who ever
lived, and some account of whom is given in the note below.t
* Bawdwen's Doomsday Book, p. 143.
•j- " James Nayler, the subject of this memoir, was born, undubitably, at
Ardsley, where he lived twenty-two years and upwards, until he married "according
to the world" as he expressed himself. ,He dwelt afterwards in the parish of
Wakefield, till some time in the Civil War, when he served his country under
various offices on the side of the Parliament, and rose to be Quarter-Master under
General Lambert. In this service he continued till disabled by illness in Scotland,
when he returned home. About this time he was member of an Independent
Church at Horbury, of which Christopher Marshall was Pastor. By this Society
being cast out, on charges of blasphemy and incontinence with a Mrs. Roper,
(a married woman) he turned Quaker. Travelling soon after to visit his quaking
brethren in Cornwall, he was arrested by one Major Saunders, and committed aa a
vagrant ; but being released by an order from the Council of State, he bent his

ARDSLEY. 323
The following communication from Mr. Scatcherd relative to
this place will be read with considerable interest. We present it
course through Chewstoke, in Somersetshire, to Bristol, and here those extraordi
nary scenes were contemplated which I have to relate.
By way of preliminary, however, I ought to observe that, notwithstanding the
irregularities in Nayler's life, there were many things iu the man, which, with low
and ignorant people, exceedingly favoured his pretensions to the Messiahship. He
appeared, both as to form and feature, the perfect likeness of Jesus Christ, accord
ing to the best descriptions. His face was of the oval shape — his forehead broad —
his hair auburn and long, and parted on the brow — his beard flowing — his eyes
beaming with a benignant lustre — his nose of the Grecian or Circassian order — his
figure erect and majestic — his aspect sedate — his speech sententious, deliberate, and
grave, and his manner authoritative. In addition also, to these advantages, his
studies had been devoted to Scripture history, and by some means he had caught
up the Gnostic heresy and the doctrine of (Eons ; so that, like many of the " fana
tical" folk, (the Gnostics of our day) he could bewilder and confound others, without
being detected or abashed himself.
The usual posture of Nayler was sitting in a chair, while his company of men
and women knelt before him. These, it appears, were very numerous and con
stant for whole days together. At the commencement of the service a female
Btepped forth and sung, —
" This is the joyful day,
" Behold 1 the king of righteousness is come !"
Another taking him by the hand exclaimed —
" Rise up, my love — my dove — and come away,
" Why sittest thou among the pots?11
Then, putting his hand upon her mouth, she sunk upon the ground before him, the
auditory vociferating — " Holy, holy, holy, to the Almighty !"
The procession of this lunatic and impostor, (for lunatic he evidently was)
especially in passing through Chepstow, was extensive and singular. Mounted on
the back of a horse or mule ; — one Woodcock, preceded him bareheaded, and on
foot ; — a female, on each side of Nayler, held his bridle ; — many spread garments
in his way, while the ladies sung — " Hosannah to the Son of David — blessed is he
that cometh in the name of the Lord — Hosannah in the highest !"
I know not what sort of a prophet James Nayler was, but I am sure he could
not be a worse one than Richard Brothers, Johanna Southcott, and all other such
pretenders as have since arisen ; — he wrought, however, according to the allegation
of Dorcas Erbury, a capital miracle upon her ; for he raised her from the dead, in
Exeter Gaol, after she had departed this life full two days ; and that is more than
all the Towsers, Mousers, and Carousers of Johanna, or the Prophetess herself ever
did, as they would perhaps acknowledge. The House of Commons, in 1656, was
so sceptical — so irreligious — and so insensible to the merits of this Quaker Christ,
that on Wednesday, the 17th of December, in that year', after a patient investiga
tion of ten days, it was resolved, — " That James Nayler be set on the pillory, with
his head in the pillory, in the Palace- yard, Westminster, during the space of two

324 A UDSLEY.
in this place, although it seems to belong rather to our literary
department, because it contains a variety of topographical par
ticulars." When, in my history of Morley, &c, I gave a parti
cular account of James Naylor, of Ardsley, I was little aware
that this place was once famous for the residence of a mathema
tician of chief celebrity in the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth.
By the obliging kindness of Mr. Hunter, the historian of Hal-
lamshire and South Yorkshire, through the medium of a friend,
I am referred to the following most acceptable information.
"John Field appeared at the Visitation in 1585, when he
" gave an account of eight sons by Jane, daughter of John Amyas,
"of Kent. He also certified his arms, which were a chevron
" between three garbs of silver on a sable field, and his coat, which
"was a dexter hand proper, habited gules, turned up argent
" holding A golden Ohbery. This crest had been granted to
"him by Harvey Clarencieux, by patent, dated 4th of Sept. 1558.
" The crest was a remarkable one, and was evidently granted to
" him for some special reason. The occasion of it is shewn by the
" first clause in his will, dated Dec. 28, 1586, and proved at York
" 3d of May, 1587 ¦—
" ' I, John Field, of Ardslow, farmer, sometymes studente in
" ' the mathymaticalls sciences,' &c.
hours,'on Thursday following, and should be whipped by the hangman through the
streets from Westminster to the Old Exchange, London, and there likewise be set
with his head in the pillory for the space of two hours, between the hours of eleven
and one on Saturday after, in each place, wearing a paper containing an inscription
of his crimes ; and that, at the Old Exchange, his tongue be bored through with a
hot iron, and that he be there stigmatized also with the letter ' B.1 in the forehead;
and he be afterwards sent to Bristol, and be conveyed into and through the said
city on horseback bare ridged, with his face backward, and there also publickly
whipped the next market day after he comes thither ; and that, from thence, he
be committed to prison, to Bridewell, London, and there restrained from the society
of all people, and there to labour hard till he be released by Parliament, and
during that time to be debarred the use of pen, ink, and paper, and have no relief
but what he earned by his daily labour.
This sentence was, for the most part, executed upon Nayler, when some of
his followers were so infatuated as to lick his wounds—kiss his feet, and lean upon
his bosom. He was, however, allowed pen, ink, and paper, and wrote several
books during his confinement.
When lodged in Bridewell, in order to carry on his impostures, he fasted
three days, but flesh and blood being able to hold out no longer, ho fell to work to
earn himself some food. Upon the next change of Government he obtained his
liberty, but died soon after without any signs of repentance."

ARDSLEY. 325
" Turning to Wood's Athenoe," says Mr. Hunter, " I found
" that there was a John Field who published an Ephemeris for
" the year 1557, to which a learned epistle is prefixed, written by
" Dr. John Dee ; — and again, Ephemerides for the three following
"years, with astronomical tables calculated for the meridian of
" London, with tables of the fixed stars, &c. — Wood says that he
"was much in renown for his learning in the reign of Queen
" Mary and beginning of Queen Elizabeth. With all his dili-
" gence, Wood was unable to collect any particulars of his later
" history, but it is manifest that he retired into Yorkshire, and
" lived at Ardsley, continuing, as may be inferred from the clause
" in his will, his mathematical studies to the last. As his his-
" TORY IS PART OF THE LITERARY HISTORY OF THE COUNTY OF
" York, I shall add from his will, that he desires to be buried in
" the church porch of Ardsley. He speaks of being bound to
"John Francklyne, of Little Chart, in Kent, Esq., in two or
"three hundred pounds; that he would leave £100 to his wife,
"in fulfilment of which he gives her his interest in the free-
" hold where he dwells, and the water corn mill belonging,
" held on lease. He gives all his plate and jewels to his younger
" sons James and Martin Field. To 500 poor folks a penny dole,
" and a dinner to all his poor neighbours. ' And to my gossoppe
" ' Will. Sherely and Rowland of the New Parke my hunting
" ' horn, with rest pertaining to it, with an English book, at my
" ' wife's discretion.' He then bequeaths to his children, makes his
" wife executrix, and names for supervisors Robert Greenwood,
" gentleman ; Robert Allott, of Bentley, tanner ; and Mr. Wil-
"liam Dynely, of Swillington. There is an old mansion near the
" church built by the Saviles, and which is probably the successor
" of that in which Field the mathematician lived."
Before I proceed, I wish to offer a few observations upon this
curious and valuable note of Mr. Hunter, hoping there is no
presumption in my doing so, from being well acquainted with
local circumstances, and having viewed the country hereabouts
with a true " Huttonian," that is to say antiquarian, eye.
Now many mistakes, as I am convinced, have arisen from
persons being in former times said to live " at Ardsley," who
probably lived a mile and a half or two miles' from the village of
East Ardsley ; and this I will prove by two instances. — In the
first place, it is said that James Naylor, the prophet, was born
and lived at Ardsley; but if by this be meant the village of East

326 ARDSLEY.
Ardsley, I must demur to the assertion, for the great-grand
daughter of the prophet told a very honest and respectable
acquaintance of mine, and a true antiquary (Mark Hepworth),
that when " the word of the Lord " first came to her ancestor,
" he was ploughing in a field," which she described east of Hague
Hall spring, so that the prophet probably lived at, or near,
Haigh-moor-side. In the next place, Lord Fairfax mentions a
Mr. Headcot (Hesketh), "a minister, of Ardsley," and I know
Mr. Hesketh, a minister, lived near Lee Fair upper green ; but
both these places are in Ardsley West.
To return to the residence of Field the astronomer, and his
" water corn mill thereunto belonging," I cannot believe, with
Mr. Hunter, that it was upon the top of a dry hill near East
Ardsley church, where is no vestige of such works, or indeed any
where in East Ardsley ; but I can point out to him the very
ancient water corn mills in " Ardsley '' (West), just below
Woodchurch ; and if it be objected that an astronomer would not
fix his observatory here, I will reply that Hague-moor-side would
suit him, where / know for a fact that James Field his grand
son lived, in a house still remaining, and occupied by families
called Appleby and Mitchell.
But I have another reason for believing that our great mathe
matician, astronomer, and, no doubt, astrologer, lived either at
the Mills, or on Haigh-moor-side, and that is this : — He leaves
to his friends " William Sherely and Rowland, of the New Park,
" his hunting horn." Of course we may conclude that he lived
in the vicinity of the New Park and of the Old one. I will shew
that he did so, and that the village of East Ardsley is remote
from both.
In the latter part of Elizabeth's reign, the fine estate of the
Soothills, at Howley, having come by marriage into that of
Savile, the famous Sir John, or his father Sir Robert, began to
build the splendid mansion at this place, and he fenced it round
with a park wall about the same period. This, of course, when
the mathematician died, would be called the New Park, either
in contradistinction to the park of the Murfields and Southwells,
if they had one, or more likely, to the ancient park of Haigh
Hall, a large old mansion destroyed early in the last century.
This park extended nearly from Woodchurch along the bottom of
Haigh-moor down to Low Laiths, where still are very large and
ancient barns, probably •' the grange." A lane, still called Park

ARDSLEY. 327
Lane, is partly visible, and the site of the lodge on the hill side
still bears the appellation of Red Lodge.
From these concurrent circumstances I certainly believe that
our mathematician was the miller at the mills of Ardsley (West),
which he probably rented of those who came in for the plunder
and spoils of Wodekirke Monastery, or its superior at Nostel.
These mills are of very high autiquity. They probably were
first established in the reign of Edward the Second, if not before it.
As it now appears from the household books, or privy purse
expenses of our ancient kings, queens, nobility, &c, that they
scarce did one important act without first consulting their astro
logers — as John Field and Dr. John Dee pursued the same pro
fession with equal reputation at court, one as the great astrologer
of Elizabeth, and the other of Mary — as the jewels left to Field's
wife, if not the plate, had probably been given to our "Sidrophel"
by the former, and as " his history is " a most interesting " por-
"tion of the literary history of the county of York," I may, per
haps, be excused for a little curiosity about his residence, and a
wish to ascertain whether he is laid in the porch of East Ardsley
church, or, as I believe, in that of Sancta Maria, at Woodchurch.*
* " Two younger sons of John Field were called Matthew and William. In
" Michaelmas Term, 1 1th Jac. 1, the manor of Thurnscoe was passed by fine from
" one of the Cliftons to this Matthew Field, gentleman, whose son, James Field,
" inherited it, and resided there. He had several children baptized at Thurnscoe
"between 1628 and 1639."
Concerning this James Field, we have the following anecdote in the Strafford
correspondence : —
My Lord Savile hath had a high and mighty petition put up against him to the
Lords by one Field, a very honest man, as I hear, and one of your lordship's
country — one much trusted by the old* Savile. This young lord is charged by
him to have, by the persuasion of one Shaw and Ollerton, gotten him to his house,
whither, when he came, he carried him alone into his study, shuts the door, putting
the key into his pocket, goes to a drawer, whence he takes out a dagger, which he
puts to his breast, and swears by a most fearful oath, that if he did not presently
sign and seal that writing lying before him, he would kill him in the place. He,
thus terrified, sealed it. My Lord Savile then took a book, which he thinks was a
bible — made him lay his hand thereon, and swear never to reveal it. This Field,
having afterwards spoken of it, it comes to my Lord Savile's ears, who instantly
puts a bill into the Star Chamber, where, being in a straight, he had no way
but to implore the favour of the Lords, who have bid him put in ¦* cross bill
against the Lord Savile. I wish him good luck, because Sir Gervase Clifton com
mends him for an honest man ; yet, being face to face before the Council, they
affirmed things point blank one to the other.
In another letter, from Mr. Garrard to Lord Strafford, in 1 637, he writes thus : 
* The famous Lord (John) Savile, buried at Batley, in 1 630.

328 ARDSLEY.
The " History of Morley" has exhausted the annals of
Ardsley — our limits being contracted we must pass over many
" My Lord Savile's cause is now in agitation about the man whom he forced to
44 release some writings. — It has taken up four days already, and is not yet come to
" sentence.11 The business was not finished in the spring of next year ; for Lord Wentworlli,
on the 10th of April, 1638, writes thus to Archbishop Laud : —
" What is done by the Court of Star Chamber in that business of the Lord
" Savile and Field I hear not ; and be the swearing what can be, I know whether
" of them I believe hath sworn the truth.1' *
" It appears, says Mr. Hunter, by an unpublished letter in the Strafford Cor-
" respondence, that Field, with one Daniel Foxcroft,-|- acted for the sister of Lord
a Savile as executrix to her father's will in 1631. There had been earlier transac-
" tions between the Fields and Saviles of Howley ; William Field of Carlicad,
" and Matthew Field of Ardsley, having bought one fourth of the manor of Idle of
'fSir John Savile in 1615."
The whole of this narration I consider curious and valuable, not only because
it makes us acquainted with a celebrated Yorkshire mathematician and astronomer
of the Tudor times, but as it gives us some further insight aa to the character of a
nobleman of great notoriety in the early part of the 17th century; I ought to add,
if we believe the allegation of Field, or rely upon the assertions of Hollis, J who
styles him " a known, infamous impostor.1' Considering, however, that his lord
ship might, with equal appearance of truth, have retorted upon Hollis the appella
tion of " known infamous " apostate, calumniator, and pensioner, there is but a
" measuring cast " between the testimony of Field and of Savile.
I know little more about the issue of the Star Chamber suit than did Mr.
Hunter, only this I know, by tradition, that it ruined Field, who ended his days
in great poverty on Haigh-moor-side. The Civil War which ensued in this
country  the troubles of the times — and especially the consequent destruction of
the court of Star Chamber, prevented, in all probability, this affair being brought to
a regular issue. There was a John Savile living at Haigh Hall, near the residence
of Field, in 1615, but whether Field was (as I suspect) his steward, (for there is a
tradition of Field inviting a Savile, as he came out of Woodchurch one Sunday, to
dine with him on " cock and bacon ") ; — whether he was one of the noble family of
Savile, or which of that name visited Field in his adversity, poverty, and old age,
I cannot say ; only that I am well assured that some one of that name assuredly
did visit him.
I have carefully looked into Wood's Athense, at the Leeds old library, for
further information of the astronomer ; but alas ! I can add nothing more to the
acceptable information which the historian of South Yorkshire has supplied.
" This corroborates my narrative in the History of Morley, p. 34 and 37,
relating to the bitter enmity between Strafford and Savile.
f The Foxcrofts, I believe, lived at Purlewell Hall, near Batley, and this
man was probably a son of John Foxcroft, who, along with Sir John Savile and
others, was appointed a trustee of Batley school by the Rev. Wm. Lee, by will
dated 24th Sept. 1612. % See p. 38 of his memoirs. N. S.

ARDSLEY. 329
particulars which might be narrated, but which would by no
means particularly interest the reader. We pass by Tingley, to
whose ancient Danish fortification we have already alluded, and
by Topcliffe, where there was formerly a seat of Sir John Topcliffe,
Chief Justice of the Court of King's Bench, Master of the Mint,
and one of the great officers of the royal household in the reigns
of Henry VII. and VIII.
An instance of undaunted and successful courage occurred in
Ardsley in the year 1824, so truly extraordinary that it deserves
distinct record even in this abridgment. Mr. Boyle, a gentleman
upwards of eighty years of age, and who had been reduced to
extreme debility by a long illness, lived with his wife and a ser
vant girl in a lonely house and in a bad neighbourhood. Since it
was known that he had lately received his rents, six or seven
ruffians determined to rob the house, and from the desperate
depravity of their characters, there is little doubt that they would
not have hesitated to" add murder to robbery. About one o'clock
in the morning of the 25th of July, they arrived at Mr. Boyle's
residence, and by the noise they made in entering, awoke Eliza
beth Balmforth, the servant girl, who with wonderful presence of
mind first secured a door which opened upon the landing of the
better rooms, and then alarmed her master. The courageous old
man armed himself with a carbine which had not been fired for
two years, and a double barrelled pistol which he put into his
pocket, and followed by his wife, who carried a drawn sword, pro
ceeded down the principal staircase to attack the robbers.
Perceiving a man by the kitchen door he fired his carbine, which
mortally wounded the robber, and the remaining miscreants, with
the cowardice which always accompanies guilt, immediately took
to their heels. The wounded robber crawled from the house, and
was perceived at day break in the agonies of death. He proved'
to be an inhabitant of Morley, and maintained to the last his fidei
lity to his comrades, making no confession whatever. Two of*
them were, however, soon afterwards apprehended and sentenced
to die— they were not executed, but were transported for life.
POPULATION OF EAST AND WEST ARDSLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
East Ardsley,  686 812 832 853
West Ardsley,  1032 1332 1515 1450

¦2 V

330

WOODCHURCH.

The name of Woodchurch sufficiently testifies both to its
character and antiquity. As Whitkirk was so called from a
stone church having taken the place of a timber one, turned black
from age and exposure to the weather, so Woodchurch designates
a very ancient fabric, composed of the usual materials of which
even sacred buildings were constructed in remote ages, and
devoted at a very early period to the worship of God. Wood
church was noticed by Leland, who says of it, " At Woodchurch
in Morley Wapentake, near Dewsbury, was a cell of black
canons from Nostel, valued at seventeen pounds per annum."*
Although Woodchurch was however but a cell to the priory,
the remaining foundations prove it to have been of considerable
comparative extent. We have no doubt but that the church was
conventual as well as parochial, that it was supposed to be pos
sessed of considerable sanctity, and that it enjoyed a very extensive
religious renown. For all miscellaneous particulars relative to
this place, we refer our readers to the History of Morley. We
shall only refer here to one circumstance connected with the
history before we insert a valuable communication relative to the
place. At Soothill, near this place, was an ancient family of the
same name. One of this family, who must have been a man of a
brutal and ferocious character, having worked himself up into a
phrenzy of rage against a boy, threw him into a furnace or burn
ing chaldron. In order, after this atrocious murder, to propitiate
both the civil and ecclesiastical power, as well as to alleviate the
* Of this priory at Nostel, Leland says, " Where the Paroch Church of St.
Oswalds is now newly builded, there was in Henry the lst's time, a House and
Church of poor Heremites (Hermits) as in a woddy country, until one Radulphus
Adlaver, Confessor to Henry 1st, began the new Monastery of Chanons, and was
first Prior of it himself. The building of this house is exceeding great and fair,
and hath the goodliest Fountain of Conduit water in that quarter of England.
Secundus, Prior a postremo (the last Prior but two) fetched this Conduit a mile
and above off, and builded an exceeding fair kitchen also in the Monastery."

WOODCHURCH. 331
torments of an accusing conscience, he gave to the religious house
at Woodchurch some lands, which long afterwards bore the name
of Furnace or Frying Pan Fields. This circumstance affords a
striking picture of the superstition and lawlessness of the times,
when atrocious murder could be commuted for pecuniary forfei
ture, and conscience could be pacified for enormous crime by a
gift to a religious establishment.
The following communication from Mr. Scatcherd, relative to
this most interesting place, we shall present to our readers in his
own words, and certain we are that the description will supersede
the necessity of any farther observations of our own.
Mr. Scatcherd states, " In the hope that it might save from
destruction the interesting chancel and stalls of the black canons,
I addressed to the public— especially Lord Cardigan last year,
taking care to send him an " Intelligencer" * — I have also
laboured to accomplish my object by means of that very able and
elegant architect Mr. Chantrell. But alas ! alas ! the sentence
is past. The tomb of Sir John Topcliffe, Chief Justice of Ireland,
Master of the Mint, &c. in the reigns of Henry VII. and VIII.
if not of Richard III. is destined to lay open to the canopy of the
heavens, the beautiful stalls of the black canons, with their
interesting carvings, with " I. H. S." (the charm against demo
niac agency,) the beautiful walls with their roses, carnations,
anemonies, grapes, peaches, &c. and gildings— the beautiful
remains of painted glass, where shields, crests, oak leaves and
acorns — birds, and a saint under martyrdom, are still visible ;
all— all are doomed to destruction by the Goths and Vandals of
the 19th century. Well ! property comes into the hands of
strange men— of men equally devoid of historical knowledge, of
reflection, of taste, of concern for the opinions of 'their contempo
raries, or the gratification of posterity, and the country is thus
deprived of its most curious and interesting relics. The chancel
of Woodchurch gone, (as it soon will be,) the place will be as
little worth visiting as the black hole of Calcutta.
" I have, however, taken the precaution to furnish myself with
drawings of all the above objects ; as also of the ancient porch
with ' Beatae Marise' upon it, now pulled down. Of these,
thank heaven ! the Vandals could not deprive me. Being
extremely anxious that what I have been at the pains of collect
ing, and omitted in my history of Morley, &c. should be put in
* For this letter see the addenda to the Book.

332 WOODCHURCH.
print, I must beg the favour of you to co-operate with nic, as,
otherwise, in all probability, it will be lost for ever.
" In the east window of Woodkirk chancel there are five shields
of arms in broken painted glass, but so made up from the broken
glass of other windows, that little can be gathered from them.
There are two birds facing each other, apparently intended for
bustards or large hawks; but, as I believe, really intended for
eagles. The arms of Soothill, of Soothill Hall, were an Eagle
displayed, argent,* and these birds have been argent; but they
are not displayed, which causes me to doubt whether Sir John
Topcliffe may not have had these birds, (if bustards) for his
supporters. "In one of these shields, on a piece of glass, which seems once
to. have been silvered, is a saint upon a wheel cross, in the agonies
of martyrdom. A hand appears over his head, which I imagine
has belonged to another figure, perhaps the Roman Lictor. You
will remember my having shewed you my drawing of this and
other things.
" In the chancel of Woodchurch, upon a marble slab, is the
following inscription : — Thos. Ayre de Howley.
Conditur hoc tumulo nulla pietate secundus
Simplicitatis amans, justitiscquo tenax,
Fortis evangelise, pietatis vixit amicus,
Sic et supremum clauserit ille diem.
Amissum juste deflet vicinia tota,
Divitibus fugium, pauperibusque patrem.
Obiit 21 die Junii Anno 1706, »t 66.
" The tower of Woodchurch, which has evidently been rebuilt
since the days of the black canons, displays a portion of the zig
zag or chevron arch moulding. Its bells, according to tradition,
once belonged to Ardsley, but this I doubt for reasons mentioned
in my history.
" I now come to the most amusing part of my narrative. King
Henry I. granted the canons of Nostel the privilege of holding a
fair there at the feast of St. Oswald, (August 5th,) the two pre
ceding and two following days. In this reign Woodkirke, as a
cell of black canons, was also founded ; and it is probable, if not
certain, that there was a similar grant of a fair to this convent.
This fair, however, which, tradition says, was once held for three
" Vide MSS. for the West Riding in tho Leeds Old Library.

WOODCHURCH. 333
weeks, was about the time of St. Bartholomew, September 5th.
And hereby hangs a tale which may interest a few of your readers
almost as much as it has amused me.
" The fair of St. Oswald, at Nostel, appears to have been suppressed
by John de Insula (De Lisle) on account of the riots and disorders
with which it was attended. What scenes were sometimes wit
nessed at the fair belonging to the canons of Wodekirk may be
conceived from the following extract from the court rolls of the
manor of Wakefield.
'Alicia de Scardeby op, se versus Johannem de Heton, et
' quer : quod die Lunae, in festo Natjvitatis beaTjE Marls,
' anno regis Edwardi nunc nono, idem Johannes insultum fecit
' in ipsam. Aliciam et cepit, ipsam per capillos capitis sui in
' nundinis de Wodekirk, et ipsam extraxit per capillos prsedictos,
* a parte boreali ex parte nunc prsediet: quousque fossatum:
'- Australi ex parte earundem. Et quia non potuit capillos pre-
' dictos eradicare in hac forma, emarcuit ped, suo in facie ejusdem.
' Alicise causa eradicandi capillos predictos : et nihil hominus
' cepit quendam baculum, et ipsam verberavit ultra humeros,
' lumbos, et corpus, et alia enormia ei intulit, ad dampna sua C
' sol— et inde perduxit sectam.'
" There can be no doubt, I think, that this John de Heton was
the head of that great family of which, in my history, I have
made mention, as living at Old Howley Hall, near Woodkirk ; for
a John de Heton was living about that period, (9th Edward II.)
and surely in that very house. Amabil, the wife of John, was
also concerned in this outrage, against whom also, as also against
one John Graffard, complaint was made in the same court. One
John of Newcastle also complained of this John de Heton, for an
assault and battery, at the same fair, to his damage of 100 shil
lings ; and one William (the) Carter complained that the said
John had come into his stall at the fair, and had overturned it,
by which he lost 20 gallons of beer worth 2s. 4d.— a cask value
12d. and a sack worth 8d. The covering of his stall was also
torn, damage 12d. and other injuries— total loss 40 shillings— a
great sum of money in those days.
" The first curiosity to be noticed upon the face of this account
is the distance from whence people came to this very celebrated
fair, to lay in their stock of necessaries for the winter. Here we
have two travellers, Alice (of) Scardeby* and John (of) Newcas-
* I wonder where Scardeby is ? The termination " by," or " bye," shews it
had been a lone place,

334 WOODCHURCH.
tie— the one, doubtless, a good bousewife, the other a dealer in
cattle and wares. We have also William (the) Carter bringing
refreshments (of various kinds no doubt.) And here comes John
de Heton, like most of the great men of his day, a complete out
law; and aided probably his man Graffard, and wife Amebil,
and elevated perhaps by the Carter's good liquor, he kicks up a
row — overturns his stall— taps his casks— knocks down the New
castle man, and coveting the fine locks of Alice of Scardeby, if
not her person, he attemps to steal the growing crop even upon
the consecrated grounds of the black canons ! ! ! What a picture
of the times ! And these were the days of chivalry forsooth !
" Let not any of your readers be startled at my supposing that
Sir Bryan Thornhill, Sir John Elland, Adam de Oxenhope, or
Adam of Batley, and such other personages, were at Wodekirk
fair at this period, both on business and for pleasure. In Madox's
History of the Exchequer it is recorded (p. 266) that twenty
pounds was allowed in the 18th of Henry II. to Aylward the
king's chamberlain, to buy a robe for the young king, at Win
chester fair. And this robe, bought at Giles' hill fair, was actu
ally bought for his coronation. Some fairs in these times were
so famous that merchants from France, Spain, Florence, the Low
Countries, and even Germany, came with their wares and mer
chandise to sell ; and every family of consequence, as well as the
religious houses, laid in their stock of necessaries for a whole
year. In these times also, the priest and clerk stood ready, all
day, during the time of the fairs, to marry, in their churches, all
such as, during the mirth of the fair, were desirous to be married.
The household books of the Earl of Northumberland, in Henry
VII's reign, and Lord* North's in that of Elizabeth, among
various other documents abundantly shew the importance of these
fairs, and that the nobility themselves went a marketing. Peo
ple therefore are not to judge of what Wodekirk fair was from
what Lee, or Leigh, fair now is. In fact it was considerable in
my juvenile days compared with what it has been for many
years, and musicians, actors, jugglers, &c. such as, even in Nor
man times, were brought to fairs, to attract company, still
continued to exhibit.
" But I have something still more remarkable to tell you, and
your readers, about Wodekirk, or Leigh fair, which is, that, on
St. Bartholomew's day, the scholars from the grammar schools of
* " For a Garter to wear my fiing" (Seel) " by at Market xyj."

WOODCHURCH. 335
Leeds, Wakefield, &c. were brought to this place for disputation,
or to ascertain their proficiency in classical learning, annually,
down to the early part of last century. When first I gained this
information— coming, as it did, from very creditable, but unedu
cated, old men, I doubted the truth of their forefather's tradition,
but finding that the fair once lasted about three weeks, and that
the last day was on St. Bartholomew —the patron or tutelary
saint of Scholars— reflecting too on the accounts of Stowe, Lilly
the astrologer, and others, I am now as sure that these disputa
tions were at Lee fair as if I had seen them— for how could old
labourers and mechanics know any thing about St. Bartholomew ?
or the usages on his day ?
" One old man, who died about 1780, and from whom my infor
mant had his account, related, that his father, when a boy, was
present during a disputation, and had well nigh been knocked on
the head by a beadle— for, happening to ask one of the boys who
Stood up, the Latin words for certain articles which I dare not
myself put, even in that language, in this place ; the gentleman
in gold laced robe and cocked hat, applied his truncheon so forci
bly to the ' pericranium' of the catechiser as made him
remember his impudence and indecency all his life afterwards.
My respectable neighbour and tenant, Mr. Mark Hepworth, an
enthusiast in antiquities, like myself, from his childhood, had this
last narration from two very aged persons, Joseph Bold and
Richard Moreby, men of good character, who died above thirty
years ago, as appears by the Woodchurch register.
" But I must now take leave of Woodchurch. Considering
how little was known of it before I wrote, even by Dr. Whitaker,
tacking the present communication to the contents of my volume,
I flatter myself that I have done tolerable justice to the place. I
sigh for the ravages which time and the Vandals have committed;
but most of all on account of the spacious, curious, and beautiful
chancel. Ruminating on this, in connection with times past, and
viewing its present neglected, dilapidated state, a feeling of me
lancholy, as well as indignation, steals upon me. In the beautiful
language of the Psalmist I would exclaim ' We think upon her
' stones and it pitieth us to see her in the dust.' "

330

THE PARISH OF BATLEY.

We now enter upon the history of a parish in every sense
one of the most interesting, and formerly one of the most impor
tant in the district, replete with impressive facts and important
characters belonging to times long since past away. There is
no doubt that the common etymology of the name is correct, and
that it signifies the field of Batt, or Batta, a sirname, says Whita
ker, which remained long after the extinction of the Saxon lan
guage. Batley is thus mentioned in Doomsday Book. " In
Bateleia, Dunstan and Stainulf and Westre had five carucates of
land to be taxed, where there are two ploughs. Ilbert has it.
There are six villanes and four bordars, with five carucates.
There are a presbyter, a church, and two acres of meadow.
Wood pasture two quarentens long and three broad. Value in
King Edward's time twenty shillings ; now the same.'' The
population then of Batley at this period may be estimated at one
hundred souls, and it would seem that the land was compara
tively well cultivated. How the manor was granted out by the
Lacies does not appeal-, but at an early period it became part of
the possessions of a family called simultaneously according to the
place of their residence, de Bateley, de Copley, and de Oxenhope.
At the beginning of the fourth century, that is in the reign of
Edward II. Adam de Copley was returned lord of Batley, and
his family remained in possession of it at any rate until the reign
of Henry VHI. We shall return to the subject again in our
account of Howley Hall. Dr. Whitaker says, " In the coucher
book of Nostel, is a perambulation of this parish, from which I
can give only the following extracts, not having had an oppor
tunity of consulting the original. 1st, the village of Courlewell
(Churwell) with its territory, is situated within the limits of the
church of Batley. 2ndly, the boundary of the parishes of Leeds
and Batley is described to be "a certain river descending between
the wood of Farneley and the wood of Gilders (I suppose Gilder-

BATLEY. 337
some) as far as to the hospital of Beston. Item another river on
the south, descending between the wood of Middleton and the
essart of Morley, as far as to the aforesaid hospital of Beston, is
also the boundary between the aforesaid parishes." Our author
-adds, " From the account given of this hospital, it must have
stood at the bottom of the hill, and on the south side of the
brook dividing Churwell and Beeston.
Mr. Scatcherd has favoured the author with the following
communication relative to Batley, which we insert at length: —
" There is a tradition at Batley respecting the murder of an old
clerk of the church, who kept a public house where still there is
one, opposite the school.
" I have taken some pains to get information upon the subject ;
but with difficulty, and only by accident, could ascertain even the
period when the catastrophe occurred. The following are my
scanty gleanings.
" This old man had married to his second wife, a young woman,
who proved unfaithful to him, and formed a connection with
another person. Wishing to get rid of him, she conspired with
her paramour, and an apprentice boy, to dispatch him. In this
boy the old clerk reposed the chief confidence for his safety, sus
pecting the danger at hand ; but, while ascending some stairs,
and in the very act of saying " if thou be there Jack, I'm safe,"
the young villain struck him on the head and he was finally
murdered. For two days and nights his body was concealed in
a heap of manure, and being then conveyed to Carlinghow Chaise,
or spring wood, it was thrown into a pit, which to this day, is
called " the Clerk's pit." After much inquiry, and search in the
neighbourhood to no purpose, it is said the then vicar ("Dean")
was consulted, who used this curious phrase : — " If an angel appear
the dead will arise," intimating that if a golden reward were
offered for the discovery of the body, it would be brought forth,
(a piece of money, called " an angel," being still current.) But
it seems he was wrong, for blood hounds were eventually employed,
and the absurd tale is, that they hunted the corpse to the very
mouth of the pit, whence it was taken. The name of the old man
is said to have been Haley or Healey. What was done to the
Criminals remains unknown, but they were certainly apprehended.
" By a tombstone on the south side of the church, it appears
that one Thomas Haley, carpenter, died April 1, 1682, ret 47, and
"Rebecka" his wife, Oct. 20, in 1726, act 84. Now this woman
2 x

338 BATLEY.
would be about 26, in 1683, when ber husband was 47 ; and their
difference of 20 years creates a suspicion that this carpenter was
the identical clerk, but I am unable to add more.
" Vicar Dean, as appears from Whitaker, was presented to the
living of Batley, sometime in the reign of Charles II. and pro-
bably upon the restoration or passing of the " Uniformity" Act.
It does not appear when he died or resigned.
" One of the vicars of Batley, called " Hollyoak," was taken off
in a singular way. He was, during his journey to Batley from
the south, put into a bed where a boy had slept who had the small
pox. By this means the vicar caught the infection, and died of
the complaint soon after his arrival.
"On the Thursday in Whitsun week, 1 786, there was a dread
ful storm of thunder and lightning, which, in its course over
Batley, struck the south east pinnacle of the church tower, about
five o'clock in the evening. The inconceivable power of the elec
tric fluid has seldom been more conspicuous than it was in this
instance. The finial of the pinnacle rested upon four stones, each
weighing (upon an average,) 112 pounds. These were driven
away, in different directions, so suddenly, and so wonderfully,
that the finial, as if unaffected by the shock, never lost its per
pendicular, but was actually found resting upon the course of
stone below, as though it had been set thereon by the original
builders. The stricken four stones were cast as follows, viz.:
one upon an old barn below the vicarage, one upon the stone steps,
on the south side of the burial ground, (next upper Batley,) which
it broke ; one into another part of the ground ; and one fell upon
the church. This account I have from several very creditable
persons still living, and it induces me to mention a similar wonder,
equally well authenticated, which occurred at Harewood, a few
years ago.
"A very worthy person, one George Fawcett, a hatter, at
Birstal, whom I well knew, especially as an excellent singer,
happened to call at Harewood for payment of a bill when a
thunder storm came on. A number of sovereigns were laid, with
notes, upon a table, when an awful flash alarmed the reckoners,
and caused them to retire. Upon reapproaching the money it was
discovered that a guinea or a sovereign was gone, and it occasioned
some explanation, Fawcett denying that he had touched the cash,
and his customer averring that he had counted it out and left it.
The former, I believe, with his usual generosity, good temper,

BATLEV. 339
and forbearance, gave up the point, and the other had no qualm
of conscience ; for, upon reaching down the candle snuffers, the
same evening, which hung upon a nail, the good housewife dis
covered them to be almost as finely gilded, as though a working
goldsmith had done the job. These snuffers, so gilded, are, I
understand, still shown at Harewood. An equal astonishment
was once excited at Horsforth, but I forget the particulars.
" Gipsies. — I must not forget to relate that on returning from
Batley, with Mr. Geo. Crowther, on the 20th of December, 1831,
I saw, for the first time in my life, a gipsey hut, at night, with
its fire blazing on the right of the road, (as we returned,) and
about 40 or 50 yards below the "Needless'' Inn, or Cardigan's
arms, just by the rivulet which crosses the road on this hill side.
The family consisted of husband, wife, and young daughter, he
a tinker and grinder, was exercising his evening vocation as
a fiddler, at the "Needless" Inn, accompanied by the girl, while
his wife, a pretty black eyed woman, (but lost in dirt,) was sitting
solitary, guarding the tent ; with her sparklers (over shadowed
with fine black eyelashes) fixed in listless indolence upon the fire.
She told me that she was a native of Somersetshire, but that her
husband's settlement was at Beverley, in this county ; and on my
asking if she was not afraid of a storm, and still colder weather,
she replied, that a good snow Mas what she had long wanted, as
it would be both more wholesome and pleasant after a good down
fall. These gipsies, I have ever observed, are as excellent judges
of situation, as were the monastics of the middle ages. If there
be one, nice sheltered, well watered, dry, and green spot, in a long
lane, or by a road side, they are sure to find it.
"During the last summer, (1832) we had four or five more
camps of gipsies along the top of Morley Spring, in Scotsman-
lane, and so many people went to see them from all the surround
ing villages, that the towns officers were obliged to send them
away at a short notice.
" Another description of travellers, formerly very numerous in
these parts, deserve notice here, viz. : the " Bell Horses.'' I have
a faint recollection of them passing through Morley twice a week,
on Mondays and Thursdays as I am told. They were called pack
horses from carrying large packs of cloth, &c. on their backs.
They stand connected with our national history, and in page 294,
of my history, a brief allusion to them is made. These bell
horses and their drivers were the chief conveyances during the

340 BATLEY.
middle ages, and down to the times of the great civil war. By
means of them, not only various goods, but letters, and even young
Oxford and Cambridge students, were passed from various parts
of the kingdom. We have an interesting account of them in the
25th volume of the Archasologia, just come out. " Imedyatly
after that comunycacion (says the writer,) we mete one Stephen
Amore, a man of Nottyngh'en comyn from Stamfford, dryving
horses lodden with cloth before him," &c. Stephen it appears
had been at Bury, (probably Bury in Lancashire, or Bury (St.
Edmonds,) in Suffolk,) and like all his brother carriers, was
a famous newsmonger and politician.
" When I saw the bell horses at Morley, passing on to Dews
bury and Thornhill, the first horse only wore a bell. The roads
were then narrow and rugged, with deep ruts, and the causeways,
generally, were single and uneven. The bell horses always kept
this foot path, and forced therefrom travellers of every description,
so that on dark nights, and especially in the winter time, the bell
of the proud leader was a most useful appendage. These road
sters ceased to travel, sometime, as I fancy, about 1794, but I
cannot ascertain the precise date.
" The family of the "Hornblowers" was pretty numerous in
these old days, and one of the number, at Morley, was the village
postman. It is a usage as old as Shakspeare's days, but quite
discontinued here now. In the Merchant of Venice, act v. scene 1,
Lancelot says, "Tell him there's a horn come from my master
full of good news."
" In the early, and even middle part of the last century, in the
neighbourhood of Batley, and such hilly grounds, manure was
carried into the fields in what were called " Hotts," square boxes
or crates, which hung like panniers over the backs of the horses,
and which were, generally, managed by women. They had open
ing doors in the underside through which the tillage was
discharged upon the land ; and while one box or pannier was
emptying the other was borne up by an assistant, or else by,
what we call in Yorkshire, " A Buck." This account I received
from very respectable old people at Batley, and I have since met
witli an article in Brocket's Glossary which corroborates it by
shewing that such usage prevailed in other parts. " I have
heard old people say," writes Mr. Brocket, " that between the
confines of Yorkshire and Westmoreland, it was common for the
men to employ themselves in knitting, while the women were

BATLEY. 341
engaged in the servile employments, of carrying these " Hots"
upon their backs." It has been remarked to me that Hot is Hod,
but I would prefer deducing it from the French word Hotte,
signifying a scuttle, dosser or basket, to carry on the back.
" Every person who has travelled in France knows that the
labours in agriculture in that country are chiefly sustained by the
women ; and this is one, amongst other things which displays
the similarity of the manners and customs of the modern French
and ancient English. This subject (broached only by myself,) I
have discussed at length in a popular work."
The church at Batley will be described in the next book ; we
shall in this place only allude to some of its peculiarities which
refer to remarkable characters or interesting events. The tower
has at one time evidently served as a fortification and a place of
defence, according to the custom to which we have so frequently
had occasion to allude in this history. The inscription upon the
monument of the great Lord Savile is a curious example of the
tastless and verbose pomposity which characterised similar com
positions of the age. The translation of the Latin part of it will
be of no use to the reader ; he will, however, be pleased by the
perusal of some English verses appended to it, which we subjoin
in a note.* Near the little gate on the south side of the church
* What sacred Ashes this sad Tomb contains !
In this low Grave what glorious remains !
His Deeds and Fame could once our World surprize,
Now — in a Narrow Cell — lo ! here he lies. —
Here lies entomb'd a Peer of great renown,
A Spirit None but Death could e'er bring down—
The Title shews his Name — his Name is Glory,
Read but Old John Lord Savile  'tis a Story.
Great Pompey once, with one step on the ground.
Vaunted he could command all Latium round :
How far this Name commanded and made room,
Old York will witness to the Age to come.
Then rest, great Savile, since thy Scene is done,
In death resign — which living wouldst to none.
Here rest — thou hast been glorious in thy days —
There can no more be said of Csesar's praise.
This is indeed sad turged stuff. It seems to have been the common maxim in
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, to bespatter the dead with every possible
description of praise, and to refer to their dissolution rather as an apotheosis than a
submi'ision to the common lot of mortality.

342 BATLEY.
yard is a grave stone, which is connected with a singular and
somewhat interesting tradition. It exhibits the full length figure
of a man with a sword by his side, with his hands clasped upon
his breast, and his head resting upon a pillow. The following is
the tradition in the neighbourhood relative to this stone — that he
was a school-master, whose extreme severity excited the abhor
rence of his scholars, who consequently rose upon him in a body,
and killed him with his own sword.* There is another interest
ing relic at this church which also refers to a custom which
formerly prevailed, and which it is to be sincerely regretted has
ever been abolished. The old poors' box with its padlock and
staple, conducts the memory back to a period when charity and
public worship were synonymous, and when the church was
seldom frequented by the more wealthy inhabitants of the vicinity,
without the deposit of some small sum to be expended in the
maintenance of the afflicted and destitute. We shall now
refer to
MORLEY.
There can be little doubt that Morley, though now a mere
village, was anciently a place of very considerable importance,
and that in all probability it was one of the most populous and
celebrated places in the whole of the district. Whatever it might
have been in the Saxon times, it was reduced to a state of com
plete devastation at the time of the Conquest. The following is
the description of it in Doomsday Book. " In Moreleia, Dunstan
held six carucates of land to be taxed ; and six carucates there
may be which Ilbert has, but it is waste. There is a church.
* Upon this subject Mr. Scatcherd says, " This story I take to be, like most
traditionary tales, made up of error, with a strong seasoning of truth. That this
person was the schoolmaster bore, I have no doubt, — and that be commonly wore
a sword, and always a dagger, I have no doubt ; for the Ecclesiastics of the early
and middle ages, were often military men, and the dagger was worn by them even
in Elizabeth's reign. But the Ecclesiastics, or rather the Priests, were not only
military men but schoolmasters, and the only schoolmasters too, down to a late
period. Independent, indeed, of the fact that they monopolized nearly all the
science and learning of the dark ages — that they were Statesmen, Chancellors,
Civilians, Architects, and Historians ; (and, of course, the best qualified for the
work of education) it would ill have suited the craft and policy of the Romish
Church to have allowed the exercise of this important trust to laymen. This man
in stone, therefore, I am well assured, was a Piiest, a Vicar of the Church, and the
Schoolmaster at Batley; and that his gravestone, once iu the chancel, has been
thrown out, upon the rebuilding of the Church in Henry the 6th or 8th's reign.

BATLEY. 343
Wood pasture one mile long and one broad. Value in the time
of King Edward, forty shillings.'' Although no inhabitants are
mentioned in this survey, it appears from another passage in
Doomsday Book that a number of people in the Wapentake were
called upon to pronounce a verdict upon a disputed topic no doubt
deemed, at that remote age, of the very last importance.
" According to the verdict of the men of Morelege Wapentake,
concerning the church of St. Mary, which is in Morley Wood,
the king has a moiety of the three festivals of St. Mary's, which
belongs to Wakefield. Ilbert and the priests who serve the church
have all the rest." The argument which the excellent historian
of the place has deduced from these facts to demonstrate the for
mer consequence of Morley, is very conclusive. He refers to the
following particulars — " That there was even in the reign of
Edward the Confessor a church here  that it was dedicated to
the mother of Christ and called St. Mary's   that the
alms, oblations, or offerings, belonging to this church were consi
derable, and were enjoyed in moieties, one half by the king as
seized of the advowson of the church at Wakefield, and the other
moiety by his feodal baron and the Romish priests who here
officiated  from all which circumstances, and from the town
having given its name to the Wapentake, we may be sure that
Morley, though now a poor manufacturing village, was in early
times a place of considerable consequence.* This conclusion is
strongly confirmed by a fact to which we have already adverted,
that the Scots in their invasion of England, in the disastrous and
inglorious reign of Edward II. wintered at Morley, and from this
place, as their head quarters, spread terror and devastation
throughout the surrounding country. Now when the bleak and
exposed situation of Morley is considered, it will be evident that
they could only have been induced to this selection for their
abode during so long a period, by the number of its houses, the
excellence of its accommodations, and consequently its superiority
of magnitude and importance. That it was anciently possessed
of a respectable numerical population, is proved by the fact of the
existence of so rich and so celebrated a church as that of St.
Mary's, which would surely have never been founded in a place
where there was not an ' adequate and imposing number of
parishioners. We have before affirmed our conviction that the
annihilation of this consequence, and the decline and ruin of Mor-
* Hist. Morley, p. 3,

344 BATLEY.
ley are to be attributed to the ravages of the Scots, whose
ferocious character, inflamed by a sense of national injury, would
be developed by the demolition or conflagration of the towns
which they cursed with their presence. Mr. Scatcherd has men
tioned a fact strongly confirmatory of this conviction. He states
that on many wall stones in the neighbourhoad, he has discovered
evident marks of fire ; and especially on some which have probably
belonged to the church or chapel of Edward the Second's reign.*
Our own belief is, that prior to this period Morley was the most
flourishing town in the district which we are now reviewing.
Some very interesting and instructive particulars applicable
not only to the ancient history of Morley, but to the whole of the
neighbourhood south of Leeds, have been communicated to us by
the gentleman to whom this work is placed under so many obli
gations. These particulars we shall give in the writer's own
words, they will be found particularly important to those who are
at present engaged in eliciting the immense metallic treasures of
the district.
" From the rugged aspect of many places about Morley—
the turning up of much scoriae upon my own premises, and the name
of a place at the Town's end still called " The Cinder Hill," I am
satisfied that in the Plantagenet reigns, or perhaps before them,
there were iron foundries to the west, north, and north-east of
Morley. The extensive beds of cinders discovered in our neigh
bouring woods, especially those of Farnley and Middleton ;
and very near their respective rivulets, put the matter out of
doubt ; and, I am told, there are the same appearances at
Bellisle. On the Middleton side of the new Dewsbury and Leeds
road, (going thereto from our low common,) there is still the
vestige of a large dam, and some remains of very large ovens,
with thin bricks, such as the Romans used, were lately discovered.
But the most curious fact connected with this discovery is, that
these very works were, actually, upon, and but a few yards
above, a thin bed of Coal, which the people of those times
seem little to have regarded, using timber more than any thing
for their blast or smelting. I do not think it certain, however,
that they made no use of this coal, for their works are, generally,
upon this strata ; and, what are called " Bellpits" are found, as
well at Holbeck, as Haigh-Moor-Side, and various neighbouring
places. One thing seems quite evident, which is, that they kept
* Hist. Morley, p. 4.

BATLEY. 345
very much to the Woods, and these brooks mentioned by Holin-
shed,* which once, probably, were large rivulets. Where they
seem to have departed from this usage we can generally discover
the reason of it, as in the instance of " Stone Pits" at the top of
Neepshaw Lane, and within a few yards of the Roman roadt
before mentioned, called " the Street," and the ancient way cross
ing it from Loidis (Leeds) to Mancunium (Manchester.) In
confirmation of these rugged pastures having had works of this
kind upon them I would remark, in addition to what is before
noticed, that the very name of " Stone Pits" bespeaks their
origin ; for the ore, with us, in Yorkshire, is still called " Iron
stone ;'' therefore, for brevity, the old works, or mines, would be
called the " Stone Pits," and there being no building materials,
or stone likely to be gotten for roads hereabouts, is a thing which
well confirms my inference." J
The history of the Old Chapel at Morley, the only place of
worship on consecrated ground in England now in the hands of
the Nonconformists, will be given in the next book. We shall
* Hist, of Morley, p. 165. f Ib. 201.
£ Mr. Hunter (the Sheffield historian) has some pleasing and pertinent passa
ges on this subject of our Yorkshire iron works. Having described, under the
Anti-Norman period of his work, the ancient class of tenantry called " Villani,"
he adds, " But when we consider the mineral riches of the district, we can hardly
hesitate to believe that to these another numerous class is to he added. Bede in
the 8th century, mentions iron among the mineral productions of this Island ; and
the remarkable fact that in the midst of a mass of scoria the refuse of some ancient
bloomary near Bradford, was found a deposit of Roman Coins, seems to leave it
indisputable that the iron mines of Yorkshire were explored by its Roman inhabi
tants. No where did the ore present itself more obviously by tinting, with its
beautiful ochre, the beds of the streamlets in its vicinity ; no where did it lie
nearer to the surface ; no where could there be greater facilities for subjecting the
ore to the processes necessary to extract from it its metal, than in the forest
through which the Don poured its waters. Many beds of scoria, of the kind just
mentioned, are found in various parts of the parish of Sheffield, where there is now
no tradition, or any record of works having existed. They are found in the park
even, which for many centuries past has been peculiarly appropriated to the plea
sure of the Lord. Over most of them the soil has so accumulated as to form a
very thick crust, in which trees of ancient growth are at this moment flourishing.
The probabilities are therefore strong that, before the Norman invasion, and that,
even while the Romans had possession of the Island, the iron mines of Sheffield
afforded employment to a considerable number of persons — some to draw the ore
from its bed, others to extract it from the metal, and a third clasB m fabricating
weapons, implements of husbandry, or domestic utensils."
2 Y

346 BATLEY.
bring together in this place some miscellaneous particulars ill its
history. The priory at Nostel had some land here during the
existence of that monastic foundation ; for Ralph de Lisle and
William his son or brother, gave twelve oxgangs of land in Mor
ley to that house ; and Robert, son of Herbert de Beston, gave
twelve acres of land here to the same priory. The most curious
and perhaps the most ancient house in this vicinity is " Slack's
Cottage," an ancient farm house, the property of the Earl of
Dartmouth ; it is an ancient lath and plaister cottage with a roof
of exactly the same construction as that of the chapel.* Several
houses exist built in the time of the Protectorate, and one to
which the date of James I. is ascribed Two places in the village
still preserve names indicative of their former consequence— the
Ratten Row, or muster-row, where the inhabitants of the Wapen
take were formerly assembled — and the Hungrill, a word concern
ing some corrollative of which Drake says, " If it would not be
thought pedantry in me to give my opinion, I should decisively
derive it from the Huns or Easterling merchants, who had
staples or marts at the most considerable towns in the kingdom." t
The manor of Morley now belongs to the Earl of Dartmouth,
who owns about one thousand six hundred of the two thousand
three hnndred acres of land which the township contains. This
noble proprietor has, on different occasions, honourably signalised
himself by the acts of true beneficence which he has performed to
the inhabitants.
Howley Hall was formerly the most important, and its remains
still constitute the most attractive, objects of attention in this
township. The name of Howley means the field on the hill,
where, says Dr. Whitaker, for several generations, was the mag-
* Of this cottage the historian of Morley says, " The shaft of the chimney,
immensely large and formed of lath and plaster, with a top of sticks and bindings,
being doubtless a funnel for the smoke, constructed at an after period, displays the
antiquity of the dwelling. — But the fire-place is the most surprising — it is eleven
feet ten inches wide ; five feet two inches deep ; and five feet five inches high. In
the centre of this space, no doubt, in ancient times, was the reredosse or the skele
ton of a rude range ; and here, around a fire, partly perhaps of coal, but principally
of wood, did the ancestors of Slack sit plaiting their straw hats by the light of the
chimney in the day time. These interesting glimpses at the occupations and habits
of our old natives, I have delighted from boyhood to catch from the oldest people.
If they seem strange at the present day, how much more will they amuse our
posterity ? " + Ebor. 312. Scatcherd, 187.

BATLEY. 347
nificent seat of an illigitimate branch of the Saviles, though by
address and court favour they outstripped the heads of the family
for a time in honour.
Of the family of the Saviles, however we may be tempted by
the nature of the materials, we must abstain from giving an
account until we arrive at the last book of our work.
Howley Hall must have been one of the most splendid resi
dences in Yorkshire, or in the kingdom. Camden, in a passage
elsewhere alluded to, calls it " a most elegant house," and if the
magnificence of any edifice is to be estimated by the amount of
the sum expended upon its erection, then this must have been one
of the most superb residences Britain has ever seen. About two
hundred yards to the north-west, was an ancient mansion of the
Mirfields,* which was abandoned, and probably destroyed, when
the more modern hall was built. It was erected by Sir John
Savile, afterwards baron of Pontefract, and finished in the year
1590 ; but it received considerable additions and improvements
from his son, the first Earl of Sussex of the family. Part of the
old mansion was preserved in the outhouses and offices of the new
one, and Dr. Whitaker declares that one part which appears to
have been the chapel, exhibits some appearances of antiquity
greater than he had ever observed in a domestic building, and
probably not later than the year 1200. This hall, at the time of
its erection, is said to have cost one hundred thousand pounds,
that is to say about six hundred thousand pounds of our present
money — a sum which staggers credulity itself, and must cer
tainly be immensely exaggerated. From an elevation of the south
front, which has been preserved, the house seems to have truly
merited the appellation of Camden ; it had a high and massive
tower at each extremity ; the middle, or principal building was
perfectly regular and well proportioned ; it had a projecting cen
tre, or porch, on the south side, ornamented with columns and
capitals; and the battlements on the summit, the chimnies so con
structed as to rise like the minarets of an oriental mosque, and
the high and graceful cupolas surmounting the whole, must have
imparted to it an aspect extremely noble and striking. The plan
and arrangment of the interior it is impossible now to ascertain.
A fine bowling green was annexed to the west side of the hall, a
* Compare Whitaker's Loid. and Elm. 238, with Scatcherd's Hist. Mori. 235.
In an account of the antiquities at this place, which it is impossible for us to
describe ; the reader is referred to the latter work quoted and to the page.

348 BATLEY.
cherry orchard occupied the east, an ornamental garden the north,
and a kitchen garden the south. This mansion continued the
pride and the ornament of the country until 1730, when we are
told, that by the false representations of a designing agent, Chris
topher Hodson, to the Earl of Cardigan, then its owner, an order
was given for its demolition ; that mad mandate was carried into
effect, the colossal masses which composed the angles were blown
up with gunpowder, immense quantities of its wrought stone were
dispersed through Morley, Birstall, Batley, and the neighbouring
hamlets, many rooms at Wakefield were adorned with the wains-
cotting, and the Presbyterian meeting house at Bradford was
fitted up with the same material.
We have already given a full account of the principal events
which occurred in the history of Howley Hall, its being garri
soned by the Parliamentarians, and besieged by the royalists in
the great civil war. Those of our readers who are desirous of
perusing a more extended and minute account of the historical
particulars relating to it, may consult the History of Morley,
p. 235 — 262, where they will find all they can desire. There are
two reputed facts connected with the place which, however, we
must not omit. The first is that the celebrated Rubens visited
Lord Savile in Howley Hall, and painted for him a view of Pon
tefract — and the second is, that Archbishop Usher here assumed the
disguise of a Jesuit in order to try the controversial talents of
Robert Cooke, the learned vicar of Leeds.
Lady Anne's Well, commonly supposed to have been so called
from Lady Anne or Anna Sussex, and frequented annually on
Palm Sunday by the surrounding villagers, who at six o'clock on
the morning of that day drink its waters upon the strange suppo
sition of their preternatural efficacy, is situated on the south-east
side of the ruins near to Soothill wood. Mr. Scatcherd thinks
that this observance of the villagers is a remnant of the venera
tion attached to wells reputed to be holy, which formerly pre
vailed in this country ; and he asserts, and, it may be added,
proves, that in the immediate neighbourhood was formerly a
chapel before the church was erected at Batley, called a Field-
kirk, which originated the well known Field-cock, or, as he thinks
it should be called, Field-kirk fair.
One curious circumstance connected with this vicinity remains
to be recorded. At a short distance from the farm house at
Howley, near the foot-path to Morley, is a small stone with this

BATLEY. 349
inscription, " Here Nevison killed Flecher, 1684." This Nevison
was one of the boldest and most successful highwaymen whose
exploits ever filled the pages of the Newgate Calendar, or excited
the terror of the country. Born in Pontefract, he was well
acquainted with this locality, and frequently made it the scene of
his exploits. He was allured also to this district by the presence
of a profligate married woman, with whom he carried on a crimi
nal intercourse. Government, towards the close of the reign of
Charles H. had offered a large reward for his apprehension ; and
this Flecher, by the assistance of his brother, determined to effect
the capture of the robber. They watched their opportunity, and
while Nevison was in the farm house, the Flechers vanquished,
and, as they supposed, disarmed him, and secured in the stable his
horse, celebrated for its astonishing swiftness. But Nevison
leaped from the window of his apartment and alighted unhurt
upon a heap of manure beneath ; Flecher, confident in his vast
athletic power, pursued and overtook him, and after a short but
desperate struggle, both fell, Nevison being undermost. But the
robber had a short pistol in his bosom, with which he fired
through the heart of his antagonist, who died instantly. The
robber then recovered his horse, and rode with such astonishing
speed to York, where he appeared on the Bowling Green, that on
his trial he established an alibi, and was acquitted. With his
subsequent exploits, with his trial and his death, this history has
no connection. SOOTHILL HALL is in the immediate vicinity of Howley,
and was formerly the seat of an ancient family of the same name.
The hall, of which some vestiges yet remain, was built about the
reign of Mary. It is scarcely possible to ascertain with precision
the dimensions or the form of the building ; the hall is yet
remaining, with a small adjoining apartment called the Bishop's
Parlour, once the room of Bishop Tilson, of whom a short memoir
in another place will be presented to the reader.
CHURWELL can only be mentioned in this place on account
of the singular origin of its name. It signifies the well of churls,
not, says Thoresby, " in the sense that Nabal is said to have been
churlish, but in the true notion of the word, which in its original
had nothing of reproach in it, but signified husbandmen."*
CARLINGHOW is a poor hamlet, formerly remarkable for a
* Ducatus, 219.

350 BATLEY.
very old building, called by Mr. Scatcherd, one of the most
antique looking houses he ever beheld— ^once occupied by the
Ellands of Elland, and after them by the Deightons, and conjec
tured to have formed the head quarters of the Marquis of
Newcastle, the night before the battle of Adwalton Moor.
BRUNTCLIFFE is referred to for the sake of narrating one
of those remarkable discoveries of crime, which frequently display
the vigilance of a retributive providence in a manner which scep
ticism itself cannot evade. A small publican, Thomas Hellewell,
resided at Bruncliffe in 1822. On the night of the seventh of
February in that year, his family were aroused by fire in the
stack-garth, one or two of the stacks were soon consumed, and had
it not been for the powerful and active assistance of the neigh
bours, there is no doubt that the flames would soon have reached
the mistal, where thirteen head of cattle were housed. The
detection of the incendiary was accomplished by means the most
extraordinary. A slight fall of snow had just covered the ground,
and footsteps were clearly discernible about the stack-yard,
formed by very remarkable shoes, the sole of one of them having
been curiously mended, and the nails being very prominent.
Hellewell pursued this track with singular activity and resolu
tion, and succeeded, after a devious chace, in capturing the incen
diary at Beeston, with the very shoes on his feet, before eight
o'clock the same morning. John Vickers proved to be his name,
and revenge for a very trivial provocation was his motive. He
was convicted at York, and only escaped from execution by being
transported for life.
GILDERSOME, according to Mr. Scatcherd,* is a corrup
tion of Guelderzoom. Zoom, says that writer, in the Dutch
language signifies hem or seam, and metaphorically a border or
boundary, and the word consequently means the village boundary
or district of the Gueldres. The acute .and sensible writer we are
now quoting, ascribes the origin of this appellation to persecution
for conscience sake. To the cruelties inflicted upon the Protes
tants in Flanders by the Duke of Alva, and the politic encourage
ment of them by Elizabeth, the same author ascribes the chief
population of those spots in this vicinity which have at length
become large villages. He therefore concludes that Gildersorae
was so called from the emigrant traders, who fleeing from Guel-
derland about 1571, here found an asylum.t From a variety
* History of Morley, 292. f History of Morley, 292.

BATLEY. 351
of evidences it is certain that Gildersome, whatever was the
origin of its name, was a highly respectable village in the early
part of the seventeenth century, and many of its principal inha
bitants were distinguished during the civil wars for their zealous
exertions in the cause of the Parliament. To the " History of
Morley" so often quoted, we must refer for further particulars
concerning them. There are no old buildings at present in Guil-
dersome, the most ancient being of the age of Charles II — the
old hall which was built by one of the Dickinson family is not
older than the reign of William III. Gildersome, on account of
its connexion with the Quakers, and on account too of some curi
ous transactions of its traders, will occupy a prominent place both
in our ecclesiastical and commercial departments.
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF BATLEY.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Batley,  2,594 2,975 3,717 4,841
Churwell,  502 666 814 1,023
Gildersome,  1,232 1,409 1,592 1,652
Morley,  2,108 1,457 3,031 3,819
Total,  11,335

352

THE PARISH OF BIRSTAL.

Since the description of the beautiful church at Birstal is
reserved for the next book, our account of the village itself will be
very contracted, and particularly so as it presents few scenes, and
is connected with few transactions of importance.
Birstal is not mentioned in Doomsday Book, but it is commonly
conjectured that it was one of two manors said to be in Gomersal.
The whole parish was included within the fee of Lacy, it is
highly probable that it formed a part of the Saxon parish of
Morley, and that the church at Birstal was founded for the
accommodation of the vicinity on account of the distance of that
at Morley. The tombstones in the church yard point to no cha
racters which are sufficiently prominent for description in this
limited abridgment. Not far from Birstal church is Oakwell
Hall, upon which the date 1583 yet remains, it is a very fine spe
cimen of the style of building which prevailed in the country in
the reign of Elizabeth, and much to the credit of its owners, it is
kept in excellent and characteristic repair. We have already
related an incident which occurred at Oakwell Hall after the
battle of Adwalton, it was entered by the royalists in search of
republicans, and the terror of a nurse of Mrs. Batt, who had just
been confined, was so great, that she took up the child and fled
with it in great haste to Pontefract for its security.
ADWALTON is not mentioned in Doomsday Book, it was
formerly written and pronounced Adderton, and it is now gene
rally designated by the people in the neighbourhood, Atherton.
Two derivations have been given of its name. Some have supposed
from the manner in which the word is pronounced, that it is
derived from the moor near which it is situated, and which
abounds with heather, whence Heatherton ; but others, and evi
dently with more propriety, believe that it is a corruption of
" ad Vallum," that it deduces its origin from the Romans, and
that it proves the road on which it lies to have been a Roman
road. There is a curious tradition among the inhabitants of

BIRSTAL. 353
Adwalton, which may be founded upon truth, although it is con
firmed by no historic testimony that we can discover. It is
stated that Queen Elizabeth in one of her journeys came to
Adwalton, that she slept in a house whose site is now occupied by
the White Horse Inn, and that she was so grateful for the atten
tions and hospitalities of the inhabitants that she granted them
the privilege of holding an annual fair. It is useless to attempt
to decide the truth or falsehood of this tradition. It is, however,
indubitable that there was a fair at Adwalton in 1661. In our
history of Wakefield, we have given an account of the fruitless
attempt which was made by the inhabitants of Adwalton to pre
vent the establishment of the cattle fair in the former town. The
fairs at Adwalton, though on the decline, are still kept up, they
are held on the twenty-sixth of February, on the Thursdays in
Easter and Whitsun weeks, and on every other Thursday till
September 29th. Adwalton is in the chapelry of Drighlington,
a village which is only remarkable for its grammar school,
founded in 1691, and of which an account will be furnished in
our literary history.
Most of the remaining townships and villages in the parish of
Birstal are so ancient as to have existed at the time of the Con
quest, and are consequently mentioned in Doomsday Book. From
that compilation we make the following extracts. "In Gomersale,
Dunstan and Gamel had four carucates of land to be taxed, where
there may be six ploughs. Ilbert has it and it is waste. Value
SA king Edward's time forty shillings. Wood pasture one mile
long and one broad. In Wiche (Wyke) Stainulf and Westre had
four carucates of land to be taxed, where there may be two
ploughs. Ilbert has it, and it is waste. Value in king Edward's
time twenty shillings. Wood pasture four quarentens long, and
four broad.  In Heton (Clekheaton) Dunstan, Ravenehil had
six carucates of land to be taxed, where there may be three
ploughs. Ilbert has it and it is waste. Value in king Edward's
time, twenty shillings.  In Liversec (Liversedge) Levenot and
Gerneber had four carucates of land to be taxed, where there may
be two ploughs. Now Raidulf has it of Ilbert. There are five
villanes and four bordars with two ploughs. Wood pasture one
mile long, and half a mile broad. Value twenty shillings, now
ten shillings.'-
Miserable must have been the state of these villages, or
rather of this tract of country, at this melancholy period, when in
2z

354 BIRSTAL.
Liversedge alone, the remotest trace of population was to be
found, and every other part of the parish presented one gloomy
aspect of depopulation and ruin. The Saxon proprietors had all
either been exterminated or expatriated, the ground was no
longer tilled and was no longer profitable, and the Norman
soldiers might have traversed the whole without finding one sin
gle peasant upon whom to wreak their fury, or one single cottage
to consign to the flames. The parish of Birstal perhaps gradually
recovered from its devastation, the land was progressively ren
dered productive, and the homely abodes of rustic labour again
-enlivened the scene. But the signs of returning prosperity were
again obliterated by the Scots during their disastrous sojourn at
Morley. Birstal is one of the places expressly mentioned as one
of the scenes of their plunder, all the inhabitants who could
remove would flee from the presence of these ferocious barbarians;
and we can entertain no wonder at the fact we have already
stated, that when Edward II. was desirous of raising an army to
arrest the progress of the enemy, he was unable to find men in
this part of the kingdom, and was compelled to send for soldiers
to other counties of England.
As LIVERSEDGE was the place where among all these
townships population existed at the time of the Conquest, so it was
long afterwards particularly honoured by the residence of a highly
respectable and distinguished family. Having already, in our
account of Hunslet, referred to the Neviles, we shall only add in
this place that they long possessed, in Liversedge, a park, a
manor, and a mansion. The remains of the hall are still in ex
istence, and prove it to have been built in the time of Henry VII.
to have consisted of a centre and two wings, and to have corres
ponded, when the style of the age is considered, with the character
supposed to belong to the mansion of an opulent resident land
owner. The deep bay window of the hall, though divided by a
floor, is yet entire, except the battlement ; and the roof, with
light flying principals, has a wall plate with embattled carving.
In the west wing was the chapel, where there still is to be seen a
Curious window formed by four uniting circular compartments,
and surrounded by a ring on the wall. It was from this house
that the ravages of the plague, in the sixteenth century, drove
the proprietor, for safety from infection, to his residence at Hun
slet. The new church built at Liversedge by the Rev. Hammond
Roberson, will soon be described.

BIRSTAL. 355
The traces of a Roman residence at Clekheaton have
already been mentioned, and the probability is that here there was
a station for the troops on their march from Legeolium to Man
cunium. Here there was a chapel called the Old White Chapel
in the East, which Archbishop Sharpe refused to consecrate on
account of its dilapidated condition, and which has since been
superseded by a new and commodious church.
Great and Little GOMERSALL constitute a township, and it
is a curious and unaccountable circumstance, that although Birstal
gives its name to the whole parish, it is not a township of itself,
but is included in that of Gomersal.
HECKMONDWIKE is one of those numerous places in this
part of the country which, under the influence of manufacturing
industry, has risen into population and importance. It is now
rather a town than a village, a large straggling place, and though
one of the most industrious, indubitably one of the most unsightly
in the country. It possesses, however, very considerable impor
tance on account of its immense blanket and carpet manufactories
—the blanket hall, for the sale of that description of goods, is
open from one to two o'clock every Monday and Thursday. The
new church, the first stone of which was laid March 3, 1830, and
the celebrated lecture of the Congregational ministers in the
vicinity, will be described in their proper place. One of the most
terrific accidents happened in Heckmondwike in the year 1829,
that ever occurred in this district. On the twelfth of April in
that year, Mr. Dawson, of Barnbow, a well known and exceed
ingly popular preacher among the Wesleyan Methodists, was
delivering a discourse for the benefit of the Sunday school
attached to the chapel in that connexion in Heckmondwike. The
congregation was exceedingly large, and the place was so crowded
that numbers were unable to gain admission. In the midst of the
service the pipe of a stove fell, and the noise it occasioned created
such alarm that the people believed that the gallery was coming
down. The whole congregation, seized with a sudden panic,
made a simultaneous rush to the doors, and a most awful scene of
confusion and consternation immediately ensued. According to
the testimony of persons who were present at the scene, those
who first gained the narrow passages leading from the galleries
were thrown down by those behind, who in their turn were over
whelmed by those rushing from the body of the chapel. All the
exertions of the preacher to arrest the progress of the general

356 BIRSTAL.
terror were unavailing, his voice was drowned in the shrieks of
the terrified and the groans of the dying. When the confusion
had subsided, a spectacle was presented certainly the most
melancholy that ever was exhibited in this district ; two heaps of
persons unable to rise were piled up at the doors to the height of
four or five feet— five persons were taken out dead, six or seven
thus were removed in an apparently lifeless state, and more than
twenty more were injured. The whole village was involved in
anxiety and confusion, and the present generation must all be
removed before the recollection of this tremendous calamity is
effaced. HUNSWORTH is a small village at the extremity of the
parish towards Bradford, occupied by worsted and woollen manu
facturers, but without any claim to especial notice.
WYKE is a township, like all the rest in this parish, replete
with industry and manufacturing establishments. BIRKIN-
SHAW, a village connected with it, is distinguished by a new
church, and is enriched by an inexhaustible fund of coals, and a
vast supply of ironstone. A seminary at Wyke will be men
tioned in another place.
TONG, like several of the villages or townships to which we
have just referred, is mentioned in Doomsday Book. It is there
stated, " In Tuinc, Stainulf had four carucates of land to be
taxed where there may be two ploughs. Ilbert has it, and it is
waste. Value in King Edward's time twenty shillings. Wood
pasture, half a mile long, and half broad." Tong was anciently
the seat of a family who took their surname from the place, and
of which there are authentic memorials as high as the reign of
Henry III. Hugh de Tonge, in the reign of Henry VI., was
seized of the manor of Tong, and lands in Grimesthorpe, Cow-
linghead, Owlecotes, Tyersal, Schawe, Hulme, Ricroft, and Scel-
brooke. His eldest daughter was married to Robert Mirfield,
son and heir of William Mirfield of Howley, and with the Mir-
fields the estate continued until the reign of Elizabeth, when
Ellen, the daughter of Christopher Mirfield, married Henry
Tempest, and thus brought the estate into that family. Thomas
Plumbe, of Wavertree, in the county of Lancaster, Esq., married
Elizabeth, daughter of John Tempest, Esq., and thus brought
the estate to the Plumbes, with whom it still remains. Tong
Hall is a very excellent house ; it was built by Sir George
Tempest, Bart , in 1 702, and was one of the earliest specimens

BIRSTAL. 357
of the square sashed Italian house iu this part of the country.
According to Thoresby, it was esteemed in his time " a stately
hall," and a Latin inscription commemorated both the munifi
cence of the founder and the skill of the architect. The manor
is commonly called the lordship of Tong, and abounds with
beautifully variegated scenery. Concerning this place, Dr.
Whitaker uses the following highly characteristic language.
" The situation is pleasing, in a park, and amidst a succession of
swelling grounds, and sloping woods of native growth, with which
the country abounds. Directly in front is the vast and long pro
tracted line of the Moravian settlement at Fulneck, which cannot
be said to contribute to the beauties of Tong." These Moravians,
in the jaundiced eye of this most prejudiced doctor, were sectaries
—they did not go to church, they did not submit to the controul
of the clergy, and therefore the magnificent buildings they have
reared, and the delightful exhibition of industry their most
prosperous and laudable settlement affords, were disgusting to
the view of detestable bigotry. We have no doubt that the pro
prietors of Tong Hall, associating the view of this settlement
with the moral character which belongs to it, regard it as one of
the most animating objects presented to their view, calculated
alike to please the eye and to impress the heart.
The celebrated men of most different and diametrically oppo
site characters and fame which the parish of Birstal has pro
duced, will be noticed in the proper place. It may here be
observed that whatever may be thought of the manners of the
residents in this portion of our district, their acuteness, their
diligence, and their success, not only in mercantile and manufac
turing, but in literary and other honourable pursuits, all demon
strate their natural intellectual abilities, and prove their capaci
ties to be equal if not superior to those of any population in the
empire. There are few parishes in the kingdom which can boast
of having produced men of mind equal to Archbishop Margerison
and Dr. Priestley.
The opulence of this parish has astonishingly increased within
the last thirty years. In every direction are now visible excel
lent houses, surrounded with thriving plantations; opulence,
intelligence, and even a certain degree of refinement, are to be
found in a considerable number of families ; the condition of the
poor was formerly comparatively comfortable, and although of late
years there has in this respect been a change for the worse, it

358 birstal.
would be difficult to find in the whole district a scene of more
persevering diligence and of more frequent wealth.
It is a curious fact that there are few large houses to be found
in this parish older than the age of Cromwell. Whatever esti
mate our readers may have formed of the character and motives
of this truly extraordinary man, it is certain that this part of the
country astonishingly revived during his Protectorate, and it is
indubitable that to his age must be assigned the commencement
of its progressive improvement and prosperity.
A circumstance is recorded concerning vegetation in this
parish, which conducts to a tradition of the most astounding cha
racter. In the year 1782, the attention of the inhabitants of
Birstal was directed to the following fact. A slip from the Glas
tonbury thorn, planted twenty years previously, budded on Old
Christmas day, the weather having previously been remarkably
warm and open for the season. Of the original thorn it is
believed, that Joseph of Arimathea, while preaching at Glaston
bury on Christmas day, on the birth of Christ, in order to con
vince his unbelieving hearers of the truth of his statement, struck
his staff into the ground, and it attested the truth of his doctrines
by immediately producing buds and blossoms !
We have already described the Luddite commotions which
took place in this parish twenty years ago, and the desperate but
unsuccessful attack made by a party of insurgents upon the mill
of Mr. Cartwright at Rawfolds, (see p. 73.)
POPULATION OF THE PARISH OF BIRSTAL.
1801. 1811. 1821. 1831.
Clekheaton,  1,637 1,911 2,436 3,317
Drighlington,  1,232 1,365 1,719 1,676
Gomersal,  4,303 5,002 5,952 6,189
Heckmondwike, .... 1,742 2,324 2,579 2,793
Hunsworth,  585 764 870 878
Liversedge,  2,837 3,643 4,259 5,265
Tong,  1,336 1,505 1,893 2,067
Wyke,  985 1,325 1,509 1,918
Total,  24,103
Having thus completed the Civil History of our district, it is
necessary to take a general review of the statements which have
been made, with especial reference to those great epochs which
evidently mark distinct periods in the annals of the country.

BIRSTAL. 359
The state of the district under the Roman sway, as far as it
can be estimated from the scattered details which we have pre
sented to our readers, was by no means enviable. Although at
Castleford, at Leeds, at Addle, at Clekheaton, at Wakefield, and
at a few other places, we have seen the traces of their towns and
minor settlements ; although their roads traversed the country
and afforded every facility for communication ; yet we have reason
to believe that the population under their sway was never very
great, and that large tracts of country were uncultivated and
unproductive. Whether in these days any manufactures existed,
any extensive opulence was circulated, any knowledge was
diffused, or any domestic refinement was enjoyed, we have no
means of ascertaining. Burgodunum and Legeolium were unques
tionably their most important settlements, but it does not seem
likely that they were ever distinguished by considerable magni
tude and population.
Of the Saxon times we have better means of judging, in con
sequence of the descriptions which we have extracted from
Doomsday Book. The royal palaces and mighty fortifications
which at one time existed at Berwick, at Osmundthorp, and at
Bardsey, all prove that at one period this district was more highly
favoured than any other part of Northumbria, that it was the
scene of Saxon magnificence, and the residence of Saxon sovereigns.
The dreadful wars and confusion which prevailed towards the
decline of the Saxon power, the horrible ravages of the Danes,
whom we know to have had two permanent encampments in this
district at any rate, (Tingley and Armley,) must have dissemi
nated general misery, and materially diminished population ; and
although by the time of Edward the Confessor, there might be
some slight advances to renewed prosperity, the people were but
few in number, and involved in the greatest misery. If we are to
take the entries in Doomsday Book as data for calculation, we
shall find reason to believe that the whole population of this dis
trict did not amount to more than six or seven thousand souls — a
population which is now exceeded by that of many of its manu
facturing villages. The greatest part of the land was either in
-pasture, or was entirely uncultivated — and there can be little
doubt but that thanes, and bordars, and villanes, with their cor
responding subordinate labourers, were almost always in want of
the luxuries, and frequently of the necessaries, of life. That part
of the district which was the most important to the Saxons, is

360 BIRSTAL.
now the most thinly peopled and the poorest in the whole-
such revolutions are as common as they are impressive — we see
the places where courts were collected and monarchs displayed
their wealth and their power, abandoned to the animals of the
forest, to desolation and to solitude, while scenes once barren and
dreary, are covered with a numerous population, and all the cheer
ing indications of industry and intelligence.
As the departure of the Romans may be regarded as the first,
and the settlement of the Saxons the second, so the conquest by
William the Norman may be considered the third great epoch in
the history of the district. We have seen how dreadfully this
ruthless barbarian ravaged almost the whole of this part of the
country ; we have seen that in four cases out of five, the notices
of Doomsday Book declare the places to which they respectively
refer to have been waste ; and we have every reason to believe
that the few inhabitants who escaped the sword of sanguinary
emissaries of William's vengeance, were ground down to the dust
by tyrannical impositions and exactions.
The reign of Edward II. we may assert to constitute the
fourth epoch in our history. After property had been distributed
by the Conqueror, and it became the interest, and therefore, no
doubt the practice of the barons, to protect their tenants and
serfs, some degree of order would soon be restored; agriculture
would become more general and population would increase ; Mor
ley, Wakefield, and perhaps Leeds, expanded into comparatively
considerable towns ; but the general anarchy in the kingdom, and
more especially the marauding incursious of the Scots, soon
changed the scene ; the residence of these barbarians for a whole
winter at Morley, was the greatest curse this district ever knew ;
and, as we have already stated, the reign of Edward II, may be
fixed upon as the period of its greatest depression.
The fifth epoch in our history may be assigned to the reign of
Henry VIII. when by the dissolution of the monasteries a mighty
change was effected in the possession of landed property, and
when by the distribution of that property into a greater number
of hands, an impulse was given to every social transaction which
has not subsided to the present day. Then, after the mad Pilgri
mage of Grace, a settled government superseded intestine anarchy,
property became comparatively secure, industry enjoyed the pos
session of its reward, and trade soon began to extend its reviving
influence, and to increase the wealth and comfort of the inhabi-

BIRSTAL. 361
tants. From this period houses began to be built in every direc
tion, the land was cultivated with assiduity, villages were formed,
and some faint prediction was given of the importance and
affluence which the district has attained.
The Protectorate of Cromwell is the sixth epoch in our
history. After the civil wars had subsided, and the sword was
once more turned into the ploughshare, commerce and agri
culture expanded with astonishing elasticity, and both have
contiuued in progression to the present hour. Since to this sub
ject we shall pay especial attention in our history of trade, we
shall content ourselves here with expressing our conviction, that
the age of Cromwell, the era of the passing of the Navigation
Act, had a more momentous and beneficial influence upon the
affairs of this district, than any other which has evolved in the
whole course of its history.
The seventh and last epoch in the history of this district, and
most certainly the most important of the whole, was last year,
when the principal towns were endowed with the elective fran
chise, and were acknowledged in the legislature in their com
mercial and manufacturing opulence and importance.
On the future condition of our district — on the events which
may evolve to effect the prosperity of its inhabitants, and to fur
nish materials for subsequent historians, it is useless to speculate.
If its intelligence, its knowledge, its public spirit, and its moral
principle be maintained, and if the influence of all combined
continue to operate, we have little doubt but that brighter days
are before it than it has ever yet enjoyed, and that its population,
as they accumulate in numbers, will increase in all the prosperity
that forms the happiness, and in all the virtues that constitute
the ornament, of civil society.

362

ADDENDA TO BOOK I.

Letter from Mr. Scatcherd to the editor of the Leeds Intelligencer relative to
"Woodchurch, alluded to p. 331 : —
Mr. Editor, — Some of your readers will recollect that on the 12th of last July
the roof belonging to the nave of Woodchurch fell in with a tremendous crash,
breaking down the walls, and destroying the fine old pews called the Topcliffe,
Westerton, and Haigh Hall seats, laying every thing, in short, in ruins beneath it,
When first I heard of this misfortune, being an ardent lover of our national anti
quities, I hastened to the spot — anxious, principally, for the fate of the chancel.
This I had the satisfaction to find uninjured, except as to the arch, dividing it from
the nave, which was much shaken.
The light now diffused through the chancel roof enabled the visitor to perceive
that its walls were hollow, or rather that they had, at some after period, been
lathed and plastered (or " stoothed," as the term is), and, what was more remark
able, it enabled the antiquary to discover the reason of this alteration. Upon the
ancient walls, from the ceiling downwards, and from the arch to the eastern wall,
some old black letter characters were " dimly visible," in separate compartments,
surrounded with antique scrolls or borders. They were all in Latin, but so dark
ened and concealed were they, by the " stoothing," that the word * " Thomas,11
alone, could be made out. In fact, the rotten state both of the roof and ceiling
increased, considerably, the difficulty of the task.
The body of the church being nearly rebuilt, I revisited Woodchurch this 1st
of February, and have been well repaid for my trouble. The arch before-mentioned
it was necessary to take down ; and, in putting up a new one, the workmen were
compelled to displace some of the lath and plaister of the chancel. Judge my sur
prise when I perceived a portion only of the ancient interior ! ! It now appears
that the whole of these walls (or nearly so) have been beautifully painted and
gilded, having on them roses, white and red, tulips, anemonies or poppies, and
other flowers ; grapes, peaches, and various choice fruits, with leaves and other
decorations, the colours of which, even yet, are delightful.
What a train of thoughts now broke upon my mind ! The spacious chancel
in its pristine state — rich with fruits and flowers, bespangled with gold, glowing
with the rays of the sun through its painted windows, or the candles or torches of
the priests from the high altar — the canons, in their conventical dresses, seated in
the rich stalls or " selhe " which still distinguish this interesting edifice — their
solemn chaunt, the pomp and splendour of their worship and processions — all these
and many other reflections passed in review before me, as the rude innovating
hands of the workmen tore from the south wall the painted and gilded plaiater,
unmindful of its beauty.

ADDENDA. 363
One other consideration now only remains. For what purpose was all this
charming work of art concealed by a casing of lath and plaister ! I can solve the
question by supposing the black letter characters relate to that which, even by
Catholic Harry the 8th, was considered superstitious or idolatrous, and that policy
suggested this mode of putting it out of sight ; and, certain I am, that nothing
short of imperious necessity could have effected an alteration so singular, and,
apparently, useless.
Burton informs us, in his Monastacon, that " in the 31st of H. 8th the site of
Nostel Priory was given to Thomas Leigh, doctor of laws, and one of the King's
visitors of religious houses ;" and its subordinate cell at " Wodekirke " being evi
dently destroyed at the same period, it is highly probable that the site of this, also,
was given to Dr. Leigh. My reason for this belief arises from the name of the
Kirk fair, which is still called " Leigh" or " Lee," " Fair ;" besides the recalled
tion of family connections between the ancient family of Leigh, and those of certain
noblemen, now lords of manors in this vicinity.
It is certain, however, that the preference of lath and plaister to whitewash did
not answer the expectations of the black canons at " "Wodekirke" in the middle of
the 15th century.
"Who this " Thomas," in black letter, was, whom the Catholic Priests set up
in their " holy of holies" — whether Thomas de Dereford their 19th prior, or
Thomas a Beckett their great saint, or St. Thomas " the apostle," who, with their
jesuitical cunning, they called the " Apostle of India," giving it out that he had
converted all India, and collecting money, gloves, and valuables for him, or
rather for themselves — who, I say, this Thomas was, cannot, now, be known,
unless the present Earl of Cardigan, to whom the support of the chancel belongs,
should (to save a. greater future expense) give orders for the repair of a roof which
is just ready to follow the cenirse of its late neighbour, and destroy the most inter
esting chancel of a country church in this part of the West Riding.
Hoping, Sir, that your well known attachment to the established church, and
acquaintance with my motive in troubling you, will procure for this letter a place
in your paper, I remain your's respectfully, N. S.
Morley, 2nd of February, 1832.

CALVERT'S MUSEUM, LEEDS.
We regret that, from an oversight, we passed over this very interesting collection
of natural and artificial curiosities. It contains more than 15,000 different speci
mens, including quadrupeds, birds, reptiles, fishes, insects, shells, corals, madre
pores, minerals,, organic remains, ancient and modern arms and armour, coins, and
medals. The whole arranged in scientific order, and accompanied by a descriptive
catalogue. The quadrupeds are displayed in cases under the birds, and it is pre
sumed are equal to any collection in England, either for rarity, number, or preser
vation. Among them may be observed the lion, tiger, panther, leopard, jaguar,
with arctic and other wolves, to the most minute species. The birds consist of
vultures, the most striking of which is a noble specimen of the condor ; eagles,
buzzards, hawks, owls, shrikes, or butcher birds, parrots, maccaws, cockatoos, lories,

364 ADDENDA.
toucans, orioles, thrushes, woodpeckers, specimens of birds of Paradise, cuckoos,
kingfishers, bee eaters, chatterers, nanakins, humming birds ; numerous water fowl,
the African crowned crane, spoonbills, and fine specimens of the egrets ; pigeons,
patridges, pheasants and grouse. The splendid specimens of the cassowary ostrich,
(standing 9 feet high,) peacocks, and the argus pheasant, are equal to any in
Europe. The various smaller British birds are also arranged in their respective
families. The cases are tastefully enlivened with landscapes at the back of each,
which seem to convey an idea of their haunts and modes of life. The amphibious
animals and reptiles include the tortoises and turtles, among which is the gigantic
Indian tortoise, upwards of three feet long, crocodiles, numerous lizards, the great
boa, and various other species, including rattle snakes. The insects comprise a
brilliant display of this interesting department of nature. They are arranged in
glass table cases, and together with the Crustacea, as crabs, lobsters, cray fish, mono-
culi, sea horse, &c, form a peculiarly interesting collection. Marine productions
and shells, are contained in large glass table cases, and in a large lighted case, in
the centre of the room ; they consist of corals, corallines, madrepores, gorgonias,
sponges, &c. &c. The shells comprise above a thousand species, to each of which
is affixed its name and locality. The minerals are systematically arranged, each
class being distinguished by different coloured traits ; among them are some truly
splendid specimens ; the groupes of crystals, the chromates of lead, malachites, and
other matters from Siberia, are uncommonly fine. Amongst the fossils, or organic
remains of a former world, may be noticed a fine specimen of an elk's horn, found
in Ireland, and a lumnar vertebral bone of the mammoth. Trophies, of ancient
and modem arms and armour, warlike implements, and curious specimens of the
ingenuity of the barbarouB tribes, and a great variety of other miscellaneous objects,
are tastefully displayed above the cases, and tend greatly to relieve the monotony,
which might otherwise exist. The Museum is kept open every day in the week,
(except Sundays) and the admission is Is.; catalogue, Is. ; and a perpetual ticket
for the year, is ten shillings.

THORPE ON THE HILL.
SEE PAGE 265.
FBOM SCATCHERD's MORLEY.
Thorpe, often corrupted into Thrup, seems to be an Anglo Saxon word, signi
fying a lodge in a forest, or a hamlet  Lidgate, the poet, in his Troy Boke, b. 11,
c. 1 0, mentions " provinces, borowes, villages, and thropes."
At Thorpe once lived the respectable family of Gascoigns, related to, no doubt,
if not descended from, that celebrated Judge who lies interred in Harewood Church.
This great man was born at Gawthorpe, in the Township of Harewood, in 1350,
and died in 141 3, leaving several children, and a fame imperishable for the integrity
and courage which he displayed on two trying occasions. He resolutely refused to
pass sentence upon Archbishop Scroope as a traitor, though urged to do so by the
imperious command of an absolute monarch (Henry 4th), alleging, in justification
of himself, that it would be violation to the laws of the land were he to comply.
And, at another time, when Henry the 5th, then Prince of Wales, assaulted him
on the bench, he committed him to prison. Such conduct as this may be well
contrasted with that of a descendant of his — Lord Strafford — who with all his

ADDENDA. 365
pliability and court favour, was never so high iu the public esteem as the Chief
Justice — the spirit, in fact, and views of these men were very different. The one
insisted on a King being subject to laws — the other would have a King above all
law, as sufficiently appears from the Kadcliffe Letters.
The first Gascoign of Thorpe, whom I can find in their pedigree, was John, who
lived in the reign of Henry the 8th. After him there are several descents which,
for brevity's sake, I omit, and skip at once to Henry Gascoign, baptized the 19th
of November, 1586, and buried 20th Sept. 1645. " His eldest son William,"
says the writer of MSS. Collections for the West Riding, in the Leeds Old Library,
was slain at Melton-Mowbray, in the Civil War ; he was famous for his astrono
mical discoveries and mathematical genius, in which studies he wrote some
manuscripts." Whether the former part of this paragraph be not one of the innumerable blun
ders of this writer, may be judged by the following extract from really good
authority. " Gascoign, Esquire, of Middleton, near Leeds;" says Aubrey, " was killed at
the Battle of Marston Moor, about the age of 24 or 25 at most. Mr. Townley, of
Townley, in Lancashire, hath his papers from Mr. Edward Hamsteed, who says he
found out the way of improving telescopes before Des Cartes. Mr. Edward Ham-
steed tells me, Sept., 1682, that 'twas at York fight he was slain."
Dr. Whitaker informs us that " he was the inventor of an instrument for
dividing a foot in measure into parts."
Since writing the above, an article in the Gentleman's Magazine has just occurred
to me which corroborates the statement of Aubrey. The writer, who signs him
self " Asthrophilus," after giving an account of Mr. Horrox and Mr. Crabtree, two
famous young astronomers, proceeds thus :— - " Contemporary with these two illus
trious youths lived William Gascoign, the inventor of the micrometer, who was
slain at Marston Moor on the 2d of July, 1644, fighting for Charles the 1st, at the
age of twenty-three."
On this indisputable statement I have but one reflection to offer. How melan
choly the tale ! — how sad the end of such a gentleman ! Alas ! he died in arms
against the liberties of his country.
My history would here have terminated, but the accidental discovery of a curious
article, corroborating some principal positions in it, invites me to keep in hand my
pen for a few pages, and .will not introduce inappropriately what was intended as an
appendix. By the kindness of my most intimate friend, Mr. Swinden, of Morley,
I am put in possession of the article in question, which he discovered at the house
of one Joseph Wooffinden. It is a warming pan of remarkable make, and the lid
of which is twelve inches and a half in diameter. Upon it is a lion rampant,
having under his left paw the fleur-de-lis of France, and upon his right one the
crown of England, which he is tossing up, and as it were playing with, as though it
were a toy. Now, if there could possibly have been any doubt as to the person or
circumstance intended, a medal of Cromwell which I possess would have decided
the matter ; but here we have upon the lid of the pan a motto, " In God is all our
troust," and (most fortunately) the date 1650, the very year upon which nearly all
the interest of my book hinges. I am credibly informed that this singular relic
has descended from a family here, called Robinson, and that other natives of
Morley had similar pans, or other articles with the same device, not twenty years ago.

366 ADDENDA.
THE KITCHINGMANS, OF CHAPEL ALLERTON.
SEE PAGE 198.
The family of the Kitchingman1 s, of Chapel Allerton, were of great antiquity and
considerable importance ; their pedigree is still preserved by their descendants up
to 1340 : there is no doubt that they formed a part of the Norman attendants of
the Conqueror, and what is far higher praise, many of them have obtained deserved
and distinguished renown as liberal benefactors to the cause of benevolence and
religion. Many of them on this account will occupy a prominent place in our
history of charities. Of the private character of Bryan Kitchingman, elsewhere to
be mentioned, who married a neice of the celebrated John Harrison, who flourished
in the reign of Charles II., and who lived in Meadow Lane, Leeds, some accounts
are still preserved, which demonstrate him to have been a very extraordinary man :
he was so addicted to religious contemplation, that he looked upon temporal affairs
with comparative abstraction ; he devoted his income to the purposes of eminent
philanthropy, and the provisions of his will demonstrate the extent of his benevo
lence. In one part of his conduct he set an exampie highly worthy of imitation,
and which we fear few in these days will be disposed to follow ; he spent the
greater portion of his time, in the latter part of his life, in purchasing clothing
adapted for the necessities of the poor, and in seeking out worthy objects for the
dispensation of his charity. He* inherited, indeed, this useful and admirable virtue
from his mother, the daughter of Grace Harrison, who was one of the most bene
ficent characters the town of Leeds ever knew. Of her a fact is recorded which
will prove highly interesting to our readers. She deemed the season of affliction
and mourning to be the time when the affections of the heart ought to be exercised
towards others who were distressed ; and acting upon this principle, when her
husband was buried at Chapel Allerton, she gave away in the burial ground fifty
pounds to the poor. Thomas Kitchingman, the nephew of the above-mentioned
Bryan, and twice mayor of Leeds, imitated the example of his worthy relatives.
Balk and Bagby, by Carleton Husthwaite, Holbeck, and Beeston, were the prin
cipal scenes of his liberality.
One circumstance is recorded of one of the Kitchingmans, which is of too
interesting a character to be omitted in this history. Timothy Kitchingman, who
lived in the house in Hunslet Lane lately occupied by Mr. Wilks, was, with other
English gentlemen in Rome, invited to be the witness of the lawful birth of the
grandson of King James II. in the very room in which the unfortunate child was
brought into the world. He sold this estate to Alderman Brooke in 1756.

EXECUTIONS NEAR LEEDS IN THE REIGN OF
CHARLES II.— see page 183.
A horrible fact has been related to the writer relative to the execution of this
Holroyd : he was not gibbetted after he had been hanged, but he was suspended
from the gibbet in such a manner as long to retain life/- The unhappy wretch is
said to have lived nine days after his suspension ; he mangled his shoulders with

ADDENDA. 367
his teeth in the agonies of his despair ; his dreadful cries aroused the echoes of the
neighbourhood, and filled the inhabitants with horror ; and such was the effect
produced upon the people by the circumstance, that they petitioned government
that no more such exhibitions of cruelty might ever again be made. It is true that
this narrative is merely traditional, but from the quarter by which it has been com
municated to the author, he has no doubt that it is founded on truth.
Another disgusting exemplification of the manner in which executions were per
formed in this age, was afforded on Chapel Town Moor at the death of the three
men who were there executed on account of their share in the Farnley Wood Plot.
Three men were apprehended in the Willow Tree public house, near the old church,
in Leeds. One of them was said to have been innocent of any participation in the
conspiracy, and to have been only in casual intercourse with the rest. After the
execution, the hearts of these men were taken from their bodies and thrown into
the flames ; and it is still recorded in the neighbourhood as a tradition, that the
heart of the innocent man would not bum, but resisted completely the action
of the fire.

ADDITIONAL ANECDOTE OF CHARLES I. IN LEEDS.
SEE PAGE 58.
When Charles I. was brought to Leeds a prisoner in the hands of the Scots,
and was lodged in the Red Hall, the celebrated Harrison requested permission t
present his Majesty with a tankard of excellent ale, which he brought in his hand.
In this application the guards could perceive no signs of treachery, and therefore
admitted him to the royal presence. When the king opened the lid of the tankard,
he found, instead of the expected beverage, that the vessel was filled with gold,
which he immediately contrived with great dexterity to hide about his person. It
is unnecessary to add how delighted Mr. Harrison was with the success of his Btra-
tagem. This anecdote was related by Mr. Harrison's nephew, Mr. Robinson, to
Mr. Thomas Nelson, in whose hand writing it was found preserved.

CURIOUS CIRCUMSTANCE WHICH OCCURRED IN
THE FAMILY OF THE SUNDERLANDS.
In the family of the Sunderlands mentioned in our history (see p. 196), a cir
cumstance occurred nearly two hundred years ago, so remarkable and so interesting,
as v deserve a place in the addenda to our first book. We relate it as the story is
preserved, and we have no doubt of its authenticity.
Samuel Sunderland, Esq., who flourished in the reign of Charles 1. and in the
Commonwealth, resided at Arthing Hall, not far from Bingley. He was one of
the richest men of his age, and had accumulated an immense quantity of gold coin,
which he preserved in bags placed on two shelves in a private part of his house.
Two individuals who resided at Collingham, and who were in circumstances above
want, though not above temptation, determined to rob Mr. Sunderland of the
whole, or at any rate of a considerable quantity, of his gold ; and in order to pre
vent the chance of successful pursuit, they persuaded a blacksmith at Collingham

368 ADDENDA.
to put shoes on their horses' feet backwards way. They arrived at Arthing Hall
according to their purpose ; they took away as much gold in bags as they thought
they could carry off, and notwithstanding the communication of an alarm to the
family before they left the house, they succeeded in accomplishing their retreat.
The weight of the gold they took away was too heavy for their jaded horses, and
they were compelled to leave part of it on Blackmoor, where it was afterwards
found by some persons of Chapel-town, whose descendants are living at that village
at the present day. It so happened, that the robbers had taken a dog with them on
their expedition, and this animal, in the hurry of their retreat, they left behind
them, fastened up in the place from which they had taken the gold. The friends
and neighbours of Mr. Sunderland, who had determined upon pursuit, immediately
saw in this dog the means of detecting the offenders. Having broken one of its
legs, to prevent it running too fast for their horses, they turned it loose ; it pro
ceeded, notwithstanding its excruciating pain, to Collingham, and went directly to
the house of its owners. The pursuers arrived, burst open the door, and found the
thieves in the very act of counting the money. They were Bent to York, tried,
condemned to die, and their own apprentice was compelled to act the part of their
executioner. This young man, though innocent of any capital participation in the
robbery, was so horror-struck by the deed he had been compelled to perform, that
he criminated himself, and followed the fate of his masters.
Mrs. Mary Midgley, wife of S. Midgley, Esq., of Moortown, and the niece of
Mr. Sunderland, immediately repaired to her uncle when she heard of the robbery,
and was accustomed to relate how he had taken her to see the bags of gold which
were left after the robbers had completed their work.

369

BOOK II.
ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY OF THE DISTRICT.

CHAPTER I. EARLY ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Together with the rest of the ancient Britons, the inha
bitants of this district, prior to the invasion of the Romans, and
long afterwards, were devoted to the superstitious and sanguinary
rites of Druidism, and were held in complete and in abject
spiritual bondage by the selfish impostors who assumed the cha
racter and discharged the functions of ministers of religion.
Although there is reason to believe that the seeds of Christianity
were sown in Britain at a very early period — although, from a
number of clear and decisive testimonies, it can be proved that
the rays of the gospel had dawned upon its shores before the close
of the first century* — yet it is highly probable, from the remote
ness of the situation of this district from the southern and most
frequented parts of the island, that the knowledge of the true
religion was not communicated to its inhabitants until after,
perhaps long after, its conquest by the Romans. As we must
exclusively confine our attention to our own district, we shall
enter into none of the controversies, and recite none of the par
ticulars, which have excited the attention of historians relative
to the gradual progress and the ultimate triumphs of Christianity
in Britain. That when the Roman legionaries settled in Britain,
they introduced their own modification of Paganism, as well as
their arts, their manners, and their civilization, is unquestionably
demonstrated by some of the inscriptions and fragments which
have been discovered in different parts of the country ; and it is
equally certain that, at the termination of the third century, very
considerable numbers of the people had been converted to the
Christian faith. That the church in Britain was in a prosperous
* See a number of testimonies in Henry's Hist. vol. i. 123. Cunningham's
Lives of Eminent Englishmen, i. 118.
3b

370 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
state in the reign of Constantine the Great, may be fairly deduced
from the fact, that several of its prelates were present at the first
council summoned by the Emperor ; and that this district was
at that time evangelized, may also be collected from the occur
rence of a Bishop of York being, among the rest, a constituent
part of that ecclesiastical assembly. At the council of Aries,
which was held in that city, A.D. 314, we find were present,
not only a bishop of London, a bishop of Lincoln, and a priest
and a deacon of the same city, but also Eborus, a bishop of York.
It can scarcely be believed that, in these days of energy and zeal,
there was an organized Christian church existing at York, with
out the dissemination of scriptural truth among the remotest
towns and districts in its vicinity. That these bishops, even very
soon after this early period, were comparatively wealthy, may be
ascertained from one curious fact. Most of the bishops who
were present at the council of Arminium, A.D. 351, were main
tained by the liberality of the Emperor, with the exception of the
prelates from Britain and France, who refused to accept the pro
vision provided for them by the imperial bounty,* from which it
is conjectured, with great reason, that the condition of the bishops
in Britain must have been superior to that of their brethren in
many other parts of the Roman world. From the existence then
of a bishopric at York at the time of Constantine, and from the
comparative affluence which the occupant of this see undoubtedly
enjoyed, we are induced to believe that at, or soon after, the
death of Constantine, the inhabitants of this district were almost
exclusively Christian.
But after the departure of the Romans, Christianity almost
disappeared. The pagan Scots and Picts, who ravaged with
savage fury this part of the country, well nigh extirpated the
very traces of its existence ; and the few memorials which they
spared were completely obliterated by the progress of the Saxon
barbarians. The latter, indeed, appear to have been animated
with the most violent hatred against Christianity ; they mur
dered without exception all the clergy who were so unfortunate
as to fall into their hands, and they destroyed the places of
worship in every place to which they directed their desolating
march. Their long and sanguinary contests with the Christian
Britons, inflamed their enmity against the religion of their oppo
nents ; and their animosity was not allayed, their prejudices were
» Dupin, ii. 263. Bedel, i. c. 13

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 371
not diminished, until the opposition of the natives was rendered
powerless, and their final subjugation was accomplished. Then
they began to regard Christianity with a more favourable eye,
and in the process of a few years vast numbers of them were
induced to assume its name, without probably knowing any thing
of its doctrines. With the conversion of Ethelbert, the King of
Kent, with the interposition of Pope Gregory the Great, with
the progress of his missionary Augustine, and with the form of
ecclesiastical discipline and doctrine which that extraordinary
personage attempted to establish in Britain, our history has no
connexion — we must refer to those events which excited a decisive
influence upon the religious character of our district.
Among those who accompanied Augustine into England was
Paulinus, one of the most renowned ecclesiastics of that or any
other age, who, by his abundant labours and his unbounded
success, obtained and deserved the name of the Apostle of the
Northumbrians. Paulinus appears to have been a man of heroic
resolution, of indefatigable diligence, and to have possessed the
power of commanding the attention of multitudes by his bold and
irresistible eloquence. That his morals were blameless, is attested
by the respect paid to his character, but it is exceedingly probable
that he was tinctured with the gross superstitions which had
already become disastrously prevalent on the continent of Europe,
and which had woefully disfigured and defiled the holy simplicity
of genuine Christianity. With the success of Paulinus in Lin
colnshire and in other counties we have nothing to do, we confine
ourselves to the object of our history.
About the year 624, Edelburga, daughter of Ethelbert, King
of Kent, was married to Edwin, King of Northumberland. Being
a professedly Christian princess, she had the free exercise of her
religion secured to her and to her household, — and Paulinus, being
consecrated a Bishop by Justus, who had shortly before been
elevated to the see of Rochester, accompanied her into Northum
berland. Paulinus was not only permitted to perform the sacred
duties of his office in the family of the Queen, but to preach the
gospel wherever he chose among the savage inhabitants of the
country. For a considerable period his labours were attended
with no great success, and his exhortations were treated by his
hearers with disdain. King Edwin, however, whether from the
influence of his Queen, or the persuasions of the bishop, or
motives of policy, having, after long consideration, and many

372 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
consultations with his council, embraced the Christian religion,
his example was followed by Coiffi, the high priest, and many of
his nobility, and great multitudes of the common people. This
event was followed by the nominal conversion of the Northum
brians. Paulinus accompanied the court, which sometimes resided
in Bernicia, and sometimes in Deira, preaching and baptizing his
converts in some neighbouring stream or fountain. Their num
bers soon became so great, that he is said to have baptized no
fewer than twelve thousand individuals, in one day, in the river
Swale. There is no doubt that Dewsbury witnessed similar
scenes, and that the waters of the Calder, at that place, were
employed to perform the initiatory rite upon the hundreds and
thousands who crowded to declare their attachment to the cause
and to the name of Christianity. In order to reward these dis
tinguished services, Edwin erected for Paulinus a bishop's see at
York, and succeeded in obtaining for him from Pope Honorius
an archiepiscopal pall.
Little need be said about the intrinsic value of such conver
sions as these. When it is recollected that these Saxons were
immersed in ignorance, superstition, and barbarism — that from
their habits and manners they were peculiarly unfitted to appre
ciate the high and the holy doctrines of Christianity — that both
their feelings of loyalty and their sense of interest would induce
them to follow with eagerness the example of their sovereign —
that Paulinus himself, whatever might have been his abilities and
his zeal, was but imperfectly acquainted with their language, and
therefore perhaps unable, in many instances, to render his instruc
tions intelligible — we have every reason to believe that the church
had little reason to rejoice in these mighty accessions to her
numbers, and that the conversion of the Saxons was rather the
assumption of a name, and the practice of certain rites and cere
monies, than the enlightening of the understanding and the puri
fication of the heart. As to the operation of a miraculous influ
ence in the production of such astonishing changes, we may safely
leave the supposition in the hands of those who have entertained it.
Whatever, however, may have been the real effect of the
preaching of Paulinus, it is certain that Dewsbury, as the scene
of his labours, was elevated to the highest ecclesiastical honour.
There can be little doubt from the fact to which we have
twice alluded, that a cross formerly existed at Dewsbury,
which was traditionally attributed to this celebrated apostle of

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.

373

Northumbria; that Dewsbury was actually the scene of his minis
trations; and that here, by the influence of his persuasions, if
not by the force of his arguments, a considerable number of the
Saxons were induced to assume the Christian name. Dr. Whi
taker has placed this probability in a very strong point of view.
He says, " It may be said, that this cross was not a fac-simile of
the original stone, but of Camden's traditionary copy, (see p. 34,)
and nothing was more likely than that some zealous incumbent,
learning from such authority, the ancient honours of his church,
might determine to repeat and perpetuate the inscription. But
had no such stone existed when the late cross was framed, for the
sole purpose of recording such inscription, what will account for
its form — an entire Saxon wheel cross ? The copy has been
extant beyond the memory of man; and I could almost undertake
to say, that a century ago, there was not an antiquary in the
kingdom, who had observed so accurately as to have thought of
copying the genuine form of such a monument without a model
to work by. Nay, were even this a counterfeit, what could
induce any man to be at the pains to make it, but for the pur
pose of recording an ancient tradition ? And it would be strange
indeed, that a groundless tradition should have fixed upon a
church, whose origin is otherwise lost in remote antiquity, and
has so many other decisive testimonies about it of Saxon anti
quity."* That Paulinus preached and baptized at Dewsbury, may
consequently be considered almost certain.
The parish of Dewsbury, no doubt, from the reputation the
place enjoyed in consequence of the preaching of Paulinus, was
one of the most extensive in England, in Saxon times. We have
already stated that it comprised an area of four hundred miles;
that the parishes of Almondbury, Kirkheaton, Huddersfield,
Bradford, Halifax, and Mirfield, were included within its boun
daries; and that in fact it stretched over the whole country from
the confines of Wakefield to those of Whalley. To other Saxon
ecclesiastical parochial divisions we have already adverted; these
however took place, there is no doubt, at an ulterior period, and
at the time of which we are now speaking, Dewsbury, ecclesias
tically speaking, was pre-eminent over them all.
Whatever might be the Christianity which was embraced and
professed by the Northumbrians in consequence of the preaching
of Paulinus, it was almost completely extirpated when the pagan
" Loid and Elm. p. 299, 300.

374 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Penda and his Mercians defeated and killed the celebrated Edwin.
After this fatal event, the apostacy of the Northumbrians
became so general, and the fear of the Mercians became so
influential, that even Paulinus, with all his courage, was intimi
dated, and found himself compelled to retire for safety into Kent,
where he was appointed to succeed his former patron Justus in
the bishopric of Rochester. When Justus, who had been trans
lated to the archbishopric of Canterbury, died, he was succeeded
by Honorius, who first instituted the division of parishes and the
appointment of a resident clergyman to administer the ordi
nances in each.
The Northumbrians did not long continue under the sway of
Penda and Paganism, for when Oswald had secured himself in the
profession of the throne, he sent into Scotland, where he had found
an asylum during his misfortunes, for Christian teachers to diffuse
the knowledge of their doctrines among his heathen subjects. Seve
ral missionaries were sent in accordance with this application ; and
Aidan, the most eminent of them, obtained an imperishable re
nown by his ardour and his success. It does not appear likely,
however, that the inhabitants of this district immediately realized
the anticipated benefits from the labours of their missionaries of
benevolence and religion; for Aidan, contrary to the regulation
of Pope Gregory, who had ordered the principal see for the
northern parts of Britain to be at York, fixed his episcopal station
in the little island of Lindisfairn, opposite to the coast of North
umberland. He was succeeded in 652 by Finan, who like his
predecessor had been a monk of Iona, and Colman, another
Scottish ecclesiastic, succeeded Finan. We have no inclination,
nor is it necessary, to enter into the dispute which agitated the
Northumbrian church, while under the superintendence of Col
man, upon the time of the celebration of Easter, and the use
of the tonsure. Suffice it to observe, that under the direction of
Oswy, then the king of Northumbria, a council was convoked
in the nunnery of St. Hilda, at Whitby, to decide the contested
points — Colman and Ceadda, bishop of the East Saxons, and
Oswy himself, appeared in behalf of the Scottish party, who
kept Easter according to the oriental date— and Agilfrid, bishop
of Paris, James the deacon, a disciple of Paulinus, Agathon, and
Wilfrid, two priests of the Romish communion, and Enfleda,
Oswy's queen, contended for the usages of the Papists. The
victory was gained by the latter, and the Romish customs were

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 375
imposed upon the Northumbrians. What a monstrous perversion
of Christianity must have prevailed at the time, when a king
and a queen, and the most distinguished ecclesiastics of a nation,
assembled to dispute upon such insignificant matters as these,
with as much solemnity as though the salvation of the universe
depended upon the decision !
The arrival of Theodore of Tarsus in Cilicia, A.D. 669,
appointed by the Pope, on the application of Oswy, king of Nor
thumbria, and Egbert, king of Kent, to fill the archiepiscopal
see of Canterbury, was the commencement of the most auspi
cious era in the history of the Saxon church. This eminent
ecclesiastic, who seems to have been sincerely devoted to the
duties of his station, to have been endowed with abilities of the
highest order, and to have acquired an extent of theological and
general learning rarely known in those dreary ages of gradually
increasing darkness, in order to facilitate the final conversion of
the Saxons, and to provide for the prosperity of the church,
increased the number of the bishops, and endeavoured to place in
the episcopal office men of experience, knowledge, and piety.
Either, under his superintendence, or that of Brithwald, his
successor, three bishoprics were established in the kingdom of
Northumberland, that of York, that of Lindisfairn, and that of
Hexham. The residence of a bishop at York would prove especi
ally conducive to the dissemination of Christianity in this
district, and it is highly probable that between the commencement
and the middle of the seventh century, those churches were
erected at Leeds, at Otley, at Addle, at Whitchurch, at Morley,
and some other places, which have been already pointed out, under
their respective heads in our extracts from Doomsday Book.*
* Bede describes in glowing terms the success which attended the labours of
these two distinguished men, and remarks, that the Saxons had never witnessed
such a happy time as the period of Theodore's prelacy, from their first arrival in
England. There is great reason to believe that this was not an incorrect statement.
Both the archbishop and the abbot were admirably calculated for the station they
occupied. Instead of being mere monks, and possessing only the learning of
monks, they were reputed for their experience in secular affairs, and their power
of imparting information on every branch of science. The school, consequently,
which they opened was crowded with auditors. Poetry, astronomy, and arithmetic,
were comprehended within the circle of their instructions. The classics both of
Greece and Rome began to be read under their auspices ; and the practice of compo
sition in the ancient languages was so closely pursued, that the historian Btates there
were many of their pupils who could write as well in Latin and Greek as in their
own tongue. Bede, Ecclcs. Hist. iv. c. 2.

376 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
We are not, however, to suppose, from the preceding state
ment, that any provision in these times was made for the instruc
tion of the inhabitants of this district, either corresponding with
their numbers, however scanty, or with their gloomy state of
ignorance and barbarism. To this conclusion we are conducted,
not only by the immense size of the parishes, but by the testimony
of the venerable Bede himself. That distinguished ecclesiastical
historian, in his celebrated epistle to Archbishop Egbert on the
state of religion in the north of England, in referring to the
subject of tithes, which were at that time payable to the bishop
of the diocese, and were strictly exacted in the remotest parts of
the country, expressly declares to the metropolitan, that these
parts of the country were almost utterly destitute of spiritual
assistance, not from bishops only, but even from presbyters,* and
he insinuates that the heads of the church not only neglected to
visit in person these comparatively distant regions, but also to
send out instructors from the episcopal college which was then
maintained from the general fund of the diocesan tithes. That
churches were erected soon after the conversion of the Northum
brians by Paulinus, is evident from one striking fact which
occurred upon the very borders of our district., In Campodunum,
which is often supposed to have been Almondbury, Paulinus
himself had erected a place of worship, which Bede states was
burnt by the Mercians after they had defeated and killed Penda.
Most of, and probably all, the Saxon churches, in the first
instance, were indubitably rude structures of wood ; yet though
the rage for building monasteries, which the venerable historian
so frequently quoted, reprehends with so much justice and
severity, may have prompted the Saxons to neglect the ordinary
and solitary places of worship, still, in the course of time, those
arts of architecture which this rude people possessed, would be
exhausted in the formation and decoration of their churches, and
those edifices would soon aspire to comparative elegance and
importance. From the character of Egbert, the metropolitan to whom
Bede addressed his remonstrance, we may be induced to believe
that steps would be taken to send among the inhabitants of this
district a greater number of priests, and that the interests of the
clergy would render them as alert as possible in bringing all the
people under their controul. This Egbert, so celebrated both by
" Bede Ep. 302. Loid. and Elm. 298.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.

377

Alcnin and Bede, two of the greatest men of the age, was the
brother of Eadbert, King of Northumberland, and by his pre
eminent merit, as well as by his royal birth, recovered the dig
nity of metropolitan, which had been possessed by Paulinus, the
first Bishop of York, and he was invested, as a badge of his
dignity, with a pall from Rome. The character of Egbert, which
was applauded throughout Europe, and his high reputation for
zeal in promoting the cause both of literature and religion, may
lead to the conclusion, that this district, as constituting an impor
tant province of his diocese, would be materially benefitted by his
liberal exertions, and by the multiplication of the number of the
teachers of religion under his patronage.
Of the state of Christianity in this part of the country at this
period, we cannot, however, form a very high opinion. Ignorance
and superstition, under the prostituted name of religion, had very
extensively increased — pilgrimages to Rome became almost inces
sant, and, according to the testimony of contemporaneous writers,
were attended with the most demoralizing consequences — the
immense number of persons of all ranks in life, who retired into
monasteries, perpetrated an immense injury upon society by the
subtraction of their exertions and influence from its general
engagements and welfare — the multiplication of holidays and
trifling ceremonies was equally detrimental to honest industry
and rational religion — the clergy became devoted to their own
interests, they practised the most nefarious impostures upon the
credulous people, and sought their own aggrandisement at the
expense of all the laws of justice and humanity — and the custom
of appealing to Rome, and of applying to the anti-christian court
in that city, for the ratification of ecclesiastical dignities and
claims, materially assisted the progress of papal usurpations, and
the establishment of the papal power. It is a melancholy fact,
that from the time of the first conversion of the Saxons, the
Christianity they professed became more and more adulterated,
until it was finally degraded into a mass of senseless ceremonies
and unintelligible jargon.
The invasions and ravages of the Danes in this and in every
other district in the kingdom, were in one sense extremely pre
judicial to the cause of professed Christianity, and involved the
clergy of every rank in one indiscriminate ruin. The Danes were
pagans as well as barbarians, and they never failed to plunder the
monasteries, which they generally found to afford a more plentiful
3c

378 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
harvest, both of booty and of provisions, than any other places —
they compelled a whole host of the monks to abandon the luxu
rious indolence of the monastic life — a great many of the clergy
were put to the sword, and the mildest fate which any of them
who fell into the hands of the invaders could expect, was to be
sold for slaves. It has been very justly observed, however, that
the dispersion of the Saxon clergy from their monasteries by the
Danes, was rather subservient than otherwise to the general
instruction of the people. The destruction of the monasteries,
and the retirement of their ecclesiastical inmates into country
villages, where they performed the functions of their office to the
people in the neighbourhood, became the occasion of the erection
of many parish churches, of which there had previously been very
few in England before his time. There is no doubt that in this
respect a beneficial result was effected by the agency of the
Danish ravages, but it was more than counteracted by the anarchy
and demoralization which always follow in the train of hostile
invasion. There can, indeed, be little doubt but that, since this
district was retained and almost peopled by the Danes, paganism
again became the dominant religion of the people, nor did the
nominal conversion of the principal leaders of these ferocious
barbarians in the reign of Alfred, produce any material effect
upon the great body of their followers. About the commence
ment of the tenth century, however, in the reign of Edward the
Elder, a considerable number of them professed the Christian
faith, although, as they did this under the influence of terror
and of the sword, no great importance is to be attached to the
asserted fact of their conversion.
A curious circumstance is recorded in the ecclesiastical history
of this part of the country in this century, which we shall relate,
as it shews the vast importance which was attached at this period
to the minute performance of certain rites and ordinances of
worship. A council was held at York in the middle of the cen
tury, in which were determined the fines to be paid by the clergy
for particular violations of the canons of the church. It was
decreed, " If a priest celebrate mass in an unhallowed house, let
him pay twelve oras* — if a priest celebrate mass upon an unhal
lowed altar, let him pay twelve oras — if a priest consecrate the
* An ora was a Danish ounce of silver, and hence it appears, when the great
scarcity of this precious metal in those times is considered, that the fines were
particularly severe.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 379
sacramental wine in a wooden chalice, let him pay twelve oras —
if a priest celebrate mass without wine, let him pay twelve oras."*
It would appear from the tenor of this ordinance, that infinite
moment was attached to the external forms and institutions of
religion, while, in all probability, the doctrines of Christianity
were little known, and its spirit was seldom exemplified — and it
would also appear, that since these exorbitant fines were to be
paid to the bishop, the higher orders of the ecclesiastics were in
the habit of gratifying their avaricious propensities at the expense
of the inferior classes of the clergy.
We have little further to record of the ecclesiastical history
of the Saxons in the district which is now immediately under
review. There is reason to believe, that in Northumbria, which
was always more replete with Danish population and prejudice than
any other part of the kingdom, heathen superstitions were mixed
up with what was called Christianity, to a most astonishing degree ;
and it is exceedingly probable that one, at any rate, of the cele
brated canons of King Edgar, was particularly directed to the
state of the people in this and in other provinces of the north of
England. Some of these canons we shall now present to our
readers, as they will strikingly illustrate the dreadful state of
ignorance, superstition, and spiritual bondage, to which the
English people were reduced at this gloomy period of ecclesiastical
despotism. By the eleventh of these canons, every priest was
commanded to learn and to practice some mechanical trade, and
to teach it to all his apprentices for the priesthood ; hence it
would seem that laziness, as well as ignorance, had already become
one of the crying sins of the priesthood. By the sixteenth canon,
the clergy were commanded to use the most diligent exertions to
induce the people to abandon the worship of trees, of stones, and
of fountains, and other pagan rites which are specifically described.
Here, in referring to fountains, there is an indubitable reference
to the practice of well-worship, which, we have already seen,
prevailed in the district seven hundred years afterwards — at any
rate, here is demonstration of the fact, that almost a thousand
years after the Christian era, a large proportion of the inhabitants
of England were still addicted to heathenism. The fifty-fourth
canon we shall repeat, because it will render any further descrip
tion of that wretched prostitution of Christianity which prevailed
at the period absolutely unnecessary. By this institute, the
* Johnson's Canons, 1. A.D. 950. Henry's Hist. ii. 189.

380 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY
clergy were commanded to exhort the people to pay their dues to
the church most punctually — their plough alms, fifteen nights
after Easter — their tithes of young animals at Pentecost— their
tithes of corn at All-Saints — their Peter-pence at Lammas— and
their church-scot at Martinmas. Unhappy must have been the
condition of the people in these miserable times of degradation—
these Saxon clergy must have been in the habit of fleecing their
flocks with a vengeance — no wonder that, with all these dues and
payments, the tithe barn, the church, and the parsonage were
always connected — these were among the halcyon days of ava
ricious ecclesiastics ; these were the days of the profound and
unmitigated depravation of the people. What can give a more
melancholy picture of the perfect distortion of the holy religion
of the gospel to the worst of all possible purposes, than that which
is afforded by the execrable canons of King Edgar ? *
From this period, superstition made rapid progress through
out England, and therefore throughout our district — the power
of the Pope became more firmly established — the celibacy of the
clergy was an ordinance universally observed,— after long dispute
and opposition, monasteries were founded in every part of the
country, filled with men who contributed nothing to the happi
ness, to the security, and even to the religion of the kingdom —and
when William the Norman ascended the throne, he found the
people quite as enslaved by an ignorant and domineering priest
hood, as in any region on the continent which acknowledged the
papal sway. The following summary of the state of ecclesiastical
affairs in England at the close of the Saxon rule, written by one
of the best of our historians, whose great work is now almost
obsolete, is so descriptive, and is so truly applicable to the purpose
of our history, that we shall extract it for the benefit of our
readers. " Of the prevalence of ignorance and superstition in England
in the eleventh century, the frequency of pilgrimages to Rome —
the prodigious sums expended in the purchase of relics — the im
mense wealth and pernicious immunities of the clergy, to men
tion no others, are sufficient evidences. In this period the roads
between England and Rome were so crowded with pilgrims, that
the very tolls which they paid were objects of importance to the
princes through whose territories they passed; and very few
Englishmen imagined they could get to heaven without paying
*Spclm. Con. i. 413—478. Henry, ii. 196. Angl. Sac. ii. 114.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 3gl
this compliment to St. Peter, who kept the keys of the celestial
regions. The Pope and the Roman clergy, carried on a very
lucrative traffic in relics, of which they never wanted inexhausti
ble stores. Kings, princes, and wealthy prelates, purchased pieces
of the cross or whole legs and arms of apostles, while others were
obliged to be content with the toes and fingers of inferior saints.
Agelnoth, archbishop of Canterbury, when he was at Rome, A. D.
1021, purchased from the Pope an arm of St. Augustine, bishop
of Hippo, for one hundred talents, or six thousand pounds weight
of silver, and one talent, or sixty pounds weight of gold — a
prodigious sum ! which may enable us to form some idea of the
unconscionable knavery of the sellers, and the astonishing folly
and superstition of the purchasers of those commodities. The
building, endowing and adorning of monasteries, had been carried
on with such mad profession for about one hundred and fifty years,
that a great part of the wealth of England had been expended
on these structures, or lay buried in their ornaments and utensils.
The masses of gold and silver (says William of Malmsbury) which
Queen Emma, with a holy prodigality, bestowed upon the monas
teries of Winchester, astonished the minds of strangers, while
the splendour of the precious stones dazzled their eyes. In this
period, the number both of the secular and regular clergy
increased very much, and their possessions still more. By the fre
quent and extravagant grants of land bestowed on cathedrals,
monasteries, and churches, from the beginning of the tenth to the
the middle of the eleventh centuries, we have good reason to
believe, that at the death of Edward the Confessor, more than one
third of all the lands of England were in the possession of the
clergy, exempted from all taxes, and for the most part even from
military services. When we reflect upon these circumstances,
we cannot be very much surprised that the people of England in
this period, were so cruelly insulted by the Danes, and at the end
of it, so easily conquered by the Normans." *
Such was the wretched condition of ecclesiastical affairs among
the Saxons prior to the arrival of the Normans. To the question,
did any Saxon monasteries exist in this district ? — we cannot give
any definite reply. We have seen that there were several Saxon
churches, but there are no traces of any Saxon monasteries. The
silence of Doomsday Book upon the subject proves nothing ; since
that compilation only describes the state of the country as it
* Henry, Hist. Eng. ii. 210, 211.

382 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY
existed at the precise period of its composition — monasteries might
have been destroyed amidst that general desolation which followed
the arrival of the Conqueror in Yorkshire, and on account of their
subversion none of them may have been mentioned. There is one
circumstance however, which appears to be almost decisive of the
non-existence of Saxon monasteries for a long period anterior to
the Conquest. The Danes, in their incursions, destroyed all the
religious houses that came in their way ; they permanently settled
in this part of the country and intermarried with the inhabitants;
their pagan superstitions continued unabated for a considerable
period after they became domiciliated ; and their prejudices re
maining in full force and influence, it is exceedingly unlikely that
they would either rear themselves, or suffer others to rear,
religious houses of the description to which we are now alluding.
And even after their nominal conversion to Christianity, or rather
to the superstition which bore the name of Christianity, it is not
very likely that they would be particularly zealous in founding
and endowing ecclesiastical establishments, against which they
must have entertained a rooted prejudice. For these reasons our
conviction is, that within the limits of our district, no monasteries
existed from the time of the invasion of the Danes to the time
of the Norman conquest.
In the preceding sketch of Saxon ecclesiastical history, we
have purposely confined ourselves within our prescribed limits ;
we leave the Dunstans and other pseudo-saints to themselves,
and we have gone into none of those disgusting particulars which
we might have enumerated to our readers. The sum of the whole
is, that the Saxon ecclesiastical history is nothing but the record
of perpetually advancing superstition — superstition promulgated
even by Paulinus and the other associates of Augustine — super
stition incessantly increasing with the lapse of centuries — super
stition deepened by the amalgamation of pagan rites with Chris
tian observances— superstition at length fully establishing its
disastrous power, and reducing both the clergy, the thanes, and
the serfs, into the humiliating condition of its devoted slaves.

383

CHAPTER II.
PAPAL ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.

The invasion and conquest of England by the Normans,
formed a new era in its ecclesiastical history. The ferocious
and ignorant barons, who, after that great event, erected their
castles and established their families in every part of the country,
were, generally speaking, devoted sons of the church — believing
that the most atrocious crimes could be atoned for by the erection
of churches and the foundation and liberal endowment of religious
houses, they distinguished themselves by the building of ecclesi
astical and monastic edifices in every part of the kingdom — under
their auspices, the power of superstition was more firmly estab
lished—the dominion of the Pope and his emissaries was finally
and universally acknowledged — the clergy were permitted to
extend their already overgrown wealth, and to usurp an unbounded
dominion — and, as we shall presently see, an immense proportion
of the landed property of the country, and of this district in par
ticular, soon passed into their hands. We shall here first of all
give some account of the religious houses which they founded in
this district, and then present some miscellaneous particulars
which belong to their ecclesiastical history. The only two houses
in this district of the character we have alluded to, were Arthing
ton and Kirkstall, but as both Esholt and Kirkless are just
on its borders, we shall in this instance pass over the line of
demarcation, and give a brief description of each of those estab
lishments.
Fob THE NUNNERY AT ARTHINGTON a very few
words will be sufficient, as the establishment never arrived at
great importance nor was possessed of extensive affluence. It was
founded in the middle of the twelfth century by Piers de Ardyng-
ton, for Cluniac* nuns. This devotee, who, like many of his
* When the reputation and discipline of the Benedictine order of ecclesiastics,
established in the eighth century, had declined, and it was requisite that a reforma-

384 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
family, was actuated by a mad propensity to alienate his posses
sions and to impoverish his descendants by his magnificent
donations to lazy, voluptuous, and worthless ecclesiastics, gave the
site of the nunnery, and Serlo his son greatly augmented its
demesnes. The celebrated Alice de Roncille, foundress of Bolton
Abbey, was one of its principal benefactors — we have already
related the singular manner in which she was rewarded for her
munificence (see p. 253). The nuns at Arthington appear to have
experienced few changes, to have proceeded in one even tenor with
out any great additions to or subtractions from their possessions,
to have dragged along the leaden monotony of their existence with
out any thing to relieve its tedium — to have walked their grounds
and played their cards* without molestation, and to have run the
usual round of ecclesiastical uselessness, and perhaps ecclesiastical
licentiousness, without any remarkable event to be recorded in
their annals. In the reign of Henry VI., three hundred years
after the foundation of their house, they were thrown into the
greatest perplexity by the litigousness, or rather by the good
sense and proper feeling of John Arthington, who claimed the
most valuable part of their possessions, and excited their fears
for the loss of the whole. The knotty point was decided by the
arbitation of John Thwaites of Denton, one of the most eminent
Yorkshire lawyers of the age, and the " diverse controversies"
were terminated in favour of the nuns.t The nunnery was sur
rendered November 26, 1540, by Elizabeth Hall, the last prioress,
and nine nuns ; it was valued at £1 1 18s. 4d., and the site was
tion of the whole should be effected, a separate order was established, derived indeed
immediately from the stock of St. Benedict, yet claiming, as it were, a specific dis
tinction and character — it was the order of Cluni. It was founded about the year 900,
in the district of Mac,on, in Burgundy, by William, duke of Aquitaine ; but the
praise of perfecting it is rather due to the abbot, St. Odo. It commenced, as usual,
by a strict imitation of ancient excellence, a rigid profession of poverty, of industry,
and of piety ; and it declined, according to the usual course of human institutions,
through wealth, into indolence and luxury. In the space of about two centuries it
fell into obscurity ; and after the name of Peter the Venerable, (the contemporary
of St. Bernard), no eminent ecclesiastic is mentioned as having issued from its dis
cipline. Besides the riches, which had rewarded and spoiled its original purity,
another cause is mentioned as having contributed to its decline — the con'uption of the
simple rule of St. Benedict, by the multiplication of vocal prayers, and the substi
tution of new offices and ceremonies for the manual labour of former days. Hist.
of Monachism, 380.
" See page 253. + Mon. Ang. i. 690, &c.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 385
granted to Thomas Cranmer, archbishop of Canterbury. Like all
the religious houses in this country, the nunnery of Arthington
stood in a delightfully sequestered and sheltered situation in the
beautiful valley of the Wharf. Every vestige of the building
has long since disappeared.
THE NUNNERY OF ESHOLT was situated in the valley
of the Aire about five miles to the north of Bradford, and the
nature of the site may be ascertained by the meaning of the word,
which signifies " The Ashwood." It was founded about the same
time with the nunnery of Arthington, in the middle of the
twelfth century, by Simon de Ward, of the Wards of Guiseley — a
family which imitated the Arthingtons in the insane perfusion
with which they alienated their patrimonial possessions, from
mistaken views of piety, in favour of the church. The nunnery
was dedicated to God, to St. Mary, and St. Leonard. Several
charters are still in existence by which lands were granted
in different parts of the neighbourhood to this establishment ; its
possessions in Idle, in Calverley, in Baildon, in Yeadon, and in
most of the surrounding townships were considerable, and the
estate in the immediate neighbourhood of the house was very
valuable. The charters in question we cannot insert ; they would
occupy more of our space than we can spare, without materially
adding to the information of our readers. Besides the estates in
the vicinity of the house, the nuns were possessed of the advowson
of the church of Belton in the isle of Axholme, which was bestow
ed upon them by Margaret Clifford, and for which a license was
obtained in the second year of the reign of Richard II. The names
of some of the princesses of the house have been preserved, and
the list we shall insert as an interesting relic of times long since
passed away. DATES. PERSONS.
8. Id. Dec. 1330. Julean de Wodehal, a nun of the house.
Joan de Harthington.
11, Cal. Oct. 1315. Isabel de Calverley, a nun of the house.
26, July.  1353.
19, Aug.  1475. Elizabeth Lazingby.
1480. Joan Ward.
Pemelt. Aug. 1497. Elizabeth Lazingby, a nun of the house.
Nov. 12. ~~ 1505. Agnes Firth, a nun of the house.
Nov. 4, „~ 1507. Margaret Roche.
14, March „ 1510. Elizabeth Pudsey.
3d

386 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
When -the smaller houses were desolved, Esholt was valued
according to Dugdale, at £19 Os. 8d., or according to Speed at
£13 5s. 4d. But the estates now produce upwards £2500 per
annum. Since the establishment at Esholt consisted of only six
nuns, the endowments must be regarded as very considerable.
The fragments of the nunnery are very insignificant, a few pointed
arches in some of the offices alone remaining to attest its exist
ence ; numerous bones have been dug up where the church once
stood ; and a singular inscription yet remains, which appears to
have belonged to the tomb of Elizabeth Pudsey, the last prioress.
The site of this nunnery remained in the possession of the crown,
until the first year of Edward VI., when it was bestowed upon
Henry Thompson Esq., then one of the kings officers at Boulogne,
it afterwards belonged to the Calverleys, and then to the Stans-
fields of Bradford. The situation and neighbourhood of Esholt
are among the most delightful in the county, and the scenery is
unexpressibly beautiful.
THE NUNNERY AT KIRKLEES was founded in the reign
of Henry II., by Regner de Heming, for nuns of the Cistercian
order. * In the charter of foundation the place is named Kuthales
and Kuthelaya, but in a subsequent confirmation of the charter by
Earl Warren, the name is changed to Kirkeleya. It is conjectur
ed by Dr. Whitaker, although in a very random and unsatisfactory
manner, that Kuthalay was the original name of the place, but
being insignificant, the nuns thought proper to change it to one of
similar sound, but expressive of the subsequent destination of the
place ; and the doctor adduces in confirmation of his opinion the
fact, that Kirkstall itself was so denominated, and for the same
reason, some time after the foundation of the abbey. The nuns
* The Cistercian order was founded in 1098, and very soon received the ponti
fical confirmation. In its origin it successfully contrasted its laborious poverty
and much show of Christian humility with the lordly opulence of Cluni ; and in its
progress, it pursued its predecessor through the accustomed circle of austerity,
wealth, and corruption. This Institution was peculiarly favoured from its very foun
dation ; since it possessed, among its earliest treasures, the virtues and celebrity of
St. Bernard, one of the first of the Cistercian monks. That venerated ecclesiastic
established, in 1115, the dependent abbey of Clairvaux, over which he long presid
ed ; and such was his success in propagating the Cistercian order, that he has some
times been erroneously considered as its founder. The zeal of his pupils, aided by
the authority of his fame, completed the work transmitted to them ; and with so
much eagerness were the monasteries of the Citeaux filled and endowed, that,
before the year 1250, that order yielded nothing, in the number and importance of
its dependencies, to its rival of Cluni. History of Monachism, 380 — 381.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 387
of Kirklees possessed a considerable estate in Liversedge, Harts-
head, and Mirfield, and the rectory of Mirfield belonged to them.
Although only one fragment of the house remains among the
numerous buildings of the farm yard around it, yet the dimensions
of the building can be ascertained with tolerable accuracy, and
prove it to have been of considerable extent. Joan Keps the
last prioress resigned her charge Nov. 4, 1540, and the house
according to Dugdale was valued at the dissolution at £19 8s. Id.
The prioress retired to Mirfield, where she had a pension of
two pounds per annum, and a pension of £1 13s. 4d. Each
was paid to the following surviving nuns, Isabel Hopton, Agnes
Brooke, Isabel Rooles, and Isabel Satterstal. The site and de
mesnes of the house after the dissolution were granted to the
Ramsden's ; in the first year of Elizabeth they were the property
of Robert Pilkinton ; and in the eighth of the same reign they
were obtained by John Armitage, in whose family they have con
tinued to the present day. Of this place Dr. Whitaker says,
" In the situation of Kirklees nunnery, it is impossible for a prac
tised eye not to discover that peculiar system which prevailed
throughout the north of England, in the choice of sites for the
erection of religious houses. In a warm and fertile bottom, on
the verge of a deep brook to the south, and on an elevation just
sufficient to protect the house from inundations, stood this celebrat
ed, though not wealthy foundation, of which the outlines alone can
now be traced. Yet these outlines, diligently pursued, prose it to
have been of great extent. A square depression in the ground dis
tinctly markes the cloister court, nearly thirty yards square.
North of this, was the body of the church, and eighteen yards or
thereabouts to the east, are the tombs of Elizabeth de Stainton,
and another, protected by iron rails, immediately eastward
from which the choir has evidently terminated. The nave,
transept, and choir, must have been at least one hundred and fifty
feet long. From an engraving of this house, as it appeared about
the year 1670, it seems that a large gateway with corner turrets,
was then standing. One fragment, and one only of the offices of
the house, remains among the buildings of a large farm yard,
which the Armitage family have erected upon the spot.' I men
tion it for one circumstance, very peculiar in a monastic building
of this country, that it is of timber. The noble beeches which
overshadow the tombs, the groups of deer that repose beneath,
and the deep silence which is only interrupted by the notes of

388 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
wild, or the cries of domestic birds, all contribute to excite very
pleasing sensations."*
KIRKSTALL ABBEY is indubitably the most interesting;
and in some respects the most important object in this district;
and on this account we shall occupy with its history a consider
ably larger space than has been usually devoted to similar objects
in this work.
The foundation of this celebrated abbey is to be ascribed to
Henry de Lacy, the grandson of that Ilbert de Lacy who has so
frequently been mentioned in the preceeding pages, and of whom
all the notices have been given which have escaped oblivion.
Ilbert was succeeded by his son Robert, who to the one hundred
and fifty manors in Yorkshire, the ten in Nottinghamshire, and
the four in Lincolnshire, added the Lordship of Blackburnshire;
in the county of Lancaster. Henry was the younger son of this
Robert, and succeeded to the immense estates of his family upon
the death of his brother Ilbert. This great nobleman, being afflict
ed with a dangerous disease, and being tormented in the apparent
approach of death with the consciousness of his crimes, vowed in
his extremity, according to the superstitious custom of the times;
that if his life were spared, he would erect an abbey for the Cis-
tertian monks in honour of the virgin Mary. When he recovered;
he sent for the abbot of Fountaynes, described to him the nature
of his vow, and assigned by charter the village of Bernoldswick
and its appendages for the fulfilment. of his vow. A deputation
of monks from Fountaynes soon proceeded to Bernoldswick to
establish the proposed monastery ; they were met by Henry de
LaGy himself, who pointed out the boundaries of the territories
he had assigned for the use of the fathers; Murdac, archbishop
of York, confirmed the grant which the powerful proprietor had
made ; and in 1147; Alexander, the brother of the abbot of
Fountaynes, with twelve monks and ten lay brethren repaired to.
Bernoldswick to commence the intended ecclesiastical settlement;
the name of which they changed to Mount St. Mary. To describe
at length the causes which produced the failure of the new estaba
lishment at Bernoldswick ; the unjust conduct of the Monks to
the inhabitants ; the ravages of the Scots, who carried off the
goods -and provisions of the brotherhood ; the rains which destroys
ed their crops, and the inclemency of the seasons which reduced
* Loidis and Elmete, 307.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 389
them to the verge of starvation — is unnecessary to the purposes
of the present narrative ; it is sufficient to state, that the' monks
soon found themselves under the necessity of quitting their new
place of residence. It happened that Alexander, on - account of
some business connected with his house, was under, the necessity
of travelling through Airedale — he discovered on his journey a
delightful retreat,, embowered in woods, refreshed by the beau
tiful stream of the river, and inhabited by a fraternity of poor and
laborious hermits. The story connected with this discovery is
too admirable an example of the flagrant impostures and falsifica
tions of the times, to be ommitted in our narrative. When Alex
ander inquired of the hermits the origin of their fraternity, and
the reason which had induced them to take up their abode in that
rural and perfect seclusion, SeLsth their chief, immediately an
swered that he was a native of the south of England, but that he
had heard a voice in his sleep saying to him, "Arise Seleth; gointo
the province of York ; seek for the valley called Airedale, and
the place which is called Kirkstall, theue shalt thou provide an
habitation for ¦¦ me and for my son;" When he inquired who it
was who thus addressed him, the voice replied, , " I am Mary, and
my son is Jesus of Nazareth." Seleth then stated that in obedU
ence to this irresistible mandate, he had left his Jrindred and. his
home, that after a tedious search and encountering many priva-,
tions, he ascertained from the neighbouring shepherds that the
place was called Kirkstall,* and that after having remained in
his solitude alone, feeding upon roots and herbs, he was joined by,
his associates, who put themselves under his government, who
lived with him according to the rules of the brethren of Lerah,
having all things in common and gaining their bread by the sweat
of their brow. Alexander, who had made up his mind that this
lovely spot should be the site of his monastery, administered an
admonition to the hermits, and informed them that being all lay
men without a priest, they were like sheep without a shepherds
and were under the necessity of immediately adopting some new
and better form of religious government. He then hastened to
his' patron, represented to him the unfortunate condition of the
settlement at Bernoldswick, described the eligible situation he
* These monks must have been bungling as well as odious forgers, fools as well
as knaves, for Kirkstall was a name unknown until after the foundation of the
Abbey which in the first instance, was called the Abbey of Hedinleia or Heading*
ley, the township in which it stands.

390 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
had recently discovered, procured his consent for the immediate
removal of the monks, and obtained his application to William
Pictavensis, the lord of the soil, for the grant of the place which
was afterwards designated Kirkstall. The hermits were soon
disposed of, the habitations of some of them were purchased, and
the rest without any difficulty were pursuaded to become monks.
Henry de Lacy acted in this affair with so much promptitude-
and zeal, that he sought a personal interview with William Pict
avensis, with whom he had previously been at variance; and that
nobleman granted to the monks of St. Mary in perpetuity, and at
an annual rent of five marks, the whole of the ground in ques
tion with the adjoining woods and the use of the water.
The arrangements for the removal were soon made, a tempo
rary church and other necessary buildings were immediately
erected, and in the year 1153 Alexander and his companions
removed to their new residence from Bernoldswick, which was
changed into a farming establishment for their use. The name of
the place was changed into Kirkstall; an adequate space of ground
was rapidly cleared for the erection of the abbey; the lands on the
south side of the river to the summit of the hill, were obtained
from William deRameville; Henry de Lacy abundantly supplied the
necessities of the monks, and they were soon in a condition to com
mence the erection of their edifice. For this purpose they used the
free and grit-stone which they found upon the spot, and which
possessed the excellent quality of extreme durability; and the
church, the two dormitories, the refectory, the cloisters, the chap
ter house, and all the requisite offices were at length completed.
Having thus acheived the object of his most anxious wishes and
of his most zealous labours, having arranged the external affairs
and the internal discipline of his ecclesiastical establishment, hav
ing obtained immense accessions to its estates, and having seen it
rise, even at this early period of its existence, to a high elevation of
honour and afluence, the celebrated Abbot Alexander died, after
having presided over the monastery for the long period of thirty
five years.
Having already described the orign and the character of the
Cistercian monks, (see p. 386,) we shall proceed to narrate what
particulars in the history of this renowned Abbey are worthy of
insertion in this work, and then we shall offer some observations
on its dimensions, its architecture, and its present state.
Henry de Lacy died towards the close of Henry the second's

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 391
reign, and it is stated by the historian of Pontefract, that his re
mains were interred in the cemetery at Kirkstall. Prior to his
death, he bestowed upon his favourite monks several tokens of his
regard, only two of which shall be mentioned as illustrative of the
manners of the times. He granted them half a mark of silver
out of his estate at Clitheroe, to furnish a lamp to burn night and
day before the great altar in the Abbey church ; and from the
same estate he granted them a mark of silver annually, to supply
the Abbot with robes suitable to the dignity of his office, and the
importance of his functions.
The monks also obtained, what in those days of gross and
abject superstition was of far greater consequence to them than
either the patronage of barons, or the favour of princes — for Pope
Adeian, in the second year of his Pontificate, 1156, confirmed to
the Abbot and his brethren all the grants they had received from
the three noblemen already mentioned, and from other benefac
tors; he ratified the arrangments they had made, especially with
reference to tithes; he bestowed upon them some peculiar privi
leges and exemptions; and he demonstrated that they were un
der his -special protection by pronouncing formal denunciations
upon all who might molest them in the enjoyment of their estates.
The second Abbot of Kirkstall was Ralph Hageth, who had
been a resident in Fountaynes Abbey, and he seems to have had a
high reputation for sincerity, scanctity, and attachment to the
interests of his order. Robert de Lacy, the son and successor of
Henry, displayed the same munificence to Ralph, that his father
had done to Alexander. He bestowed upon the monks several
extensive tracts at Roundhay, near Leeds, and the whole of
Acrington with its park or wood in the parish of Whalley, in
Lancashire. The Abbacy of Ralph, however, was clouded with mis
fortune, the monks had become possessed of the grange of Mickle
thwaite, which formed the most valuable appendage of their abbey
— it had previously been part of the fee of Roger de Mowbray —
this baron, in one of the numerous feuds which agitated the
country at this period, had espoused a party which was hostile to
the king — Henry II. seized his fee, expelled the monks, and gave
Micklethwaite, as we have already related, with Collingham and
Bardsey to Ada Brus, in exchange for the castle of Danby. The
monks were greatly incensed against their Abbot, whom they
accused of being the cause of this heavy loss, and who by his
want of order and his extravagance, had reduced the affairs of the

392 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
establishment to the brink of ruin. So great was the distress of
the monks that they dispersed themselves among the neighbouring
monasteries, with the view of working upon the compassion of
the King. They might, however, have spared themselves the
trouble of their dishonourable expedient, for the King continued
immoveable, and the fraternity were compelled to return to their
abbey, and to devise fresh measures for the restoration of their
affairs. When Ralph was translated to the presidency of Foun
taynes, he was succeed by Lambert, under whose administration
something like prosperity again visited the inmates of the abbey.
But an event soon took place, which aroused the most profound
alarm of the monks, and which as it illustrates one part of the
usual policy they observed in the administration of their affairs,
demands a distant repetition. The reflections and the application
of the anonymous author of a most excellent and elaborate history
of Kirkstall abbey, published in Leeds* about six years ago, are
so much to the purpose, that we shall abridge them for the benefit
of our readers.
" A certain knight, called Richard de Eland, claimed from
the monastery the Grange of Clivacher as his property. It is
supposed that the plea of De Eland, was grounded upon a sug
gestion that this part of Clivacher was within his manor of Roch
dale, to which it lay contiguous, and which in times when the
boundaries of lands were so extremely lax and ill defined, he might
found upon some colour of reason. On inquiry the Abbot discovered
the claim to be well founded, but still avoided its recognition and
secured compensation for the loss of the place, by resigning it into
the hands of Roger de Lacy, from whom it had been shortly
before received. The latter in consequence bestowed the village
and park of Akarington upon the monks, as already mentioned,
to make good his former gift. Lambert, following the habitual
practice of his holy brethren, immediately upon obtaining pos
session, banished the inhabitants from their ancient abodes and
possessions, and converted the whole into a grange for the use of
the monastery, under the superintendence of some of the lay
brothers of the establishment. — It has frequently been remarked
that the invention of gun-powder and several other wholesale
and expeditious modes of human destruction, is ascribable to the
knowledge and ingenuity of monks. Among the number of cruel-
* An Historical, Antiquarian, and Picturesque Account of Kirkstall Abbey.
London, Longman & Co  Leeds, Robinson & Hemaman, 1 vol. 12mo.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 393
ties which may be traced to the same origin, the practice just
referred to deserved a conspicuous place. So early as the twelfth
century, the removal of all indigenous inhabitants from the estates
bestowed on the church, in order to secure a larger surplus for
the gratification of monastic luxury, was enforced with an unswer
ving callousness worthy of a political economist. But even then
the spirit of Englishmen would not tamely brook such treatment.
In the instance which has occasioned this digression, we are
informed, by the pious historian of Kirkstall Abbey, that some
" wicked neighbouring inhabitants, whose predecessors had for
merly been possessed of Akarington, by the instigation of the
devil, burnt the grange with all its furniture, and cruelly mur
dered three lay brothers, viz., Norman, Umfridus, and Robert,
who managed the farm."... The abbot, it is said, awed by this
untoward accident, recommended the souls of the deceased to God,
aud committed their bodies to the grave. He then repaired to
Robert de Lacy, his patron, and related to him the misfortune,
with a suitable accompaniment of tears. De Lacy waxed wroth
on hearing of the great presumption evinced by the people
against their usurpers, and not only banished the malefactors who
were guilty of the firing and murder, but also their relations.
These proceedings soon brought the unfortunate sufferers to
their senses, when they fell at the Abbot's feet, and, by permission
of De Lacy, made satisfaction to God and the brethren for so
enormous a sin ; they also swore to abjure the above grange for
themselves and their successors, resigning to God and the monks
all right they had therein, and giving money over and above for
the damage they had done  Peace was accordingly ratified
between the oppressors and the oppressed, and the Abbot rebuilt
with confidence the grange which had been destroyed, as well as
repaired the other injuries which had been sustained at Akaring
ton by the late disturbances." These events occurred about the
year 1192.
Upon the death of Lambert, Turgesius succeeded as Abbot
of Kirkstall : he appears to have been a nervous and contempla
tive man, far more celebrated for a certain sort of reputed sanctity,
than for the qualifications which were demanded by the impor
tant and responsible station to which he was elevated. We shall
make two extracts from the singular account of this abbot given
by his companion and historian. " Turgesius was an abbot of
holy memory, a man of singular abstinence, and a most severe
3e

394 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
chastiser of his body, being always clothed in sackcloth, to sup
press the unlawful motions of the flesh by harsh clothing, carrying
in his mind those words of the gospel, c They that wear soft
clothing are in kings' houses.' His garment at all times was but
one cowl and one tunic, without any addition ; he had no more in
winter and no less in summer. Thus he yielded to neither
season, so that you would neither think him to be chilled with
the cold, nor inflamed with the heat.... In winter he stood at the
night watches, when we, having double garments on, were almost
frozen stiff, as if he felt no uneasiness; and we say that he
repelled the cold of the season witli the ardour of the inward
man.... He was frequently weeping, and in compunction— when
discoursing, he seldom refrained from tears ; never at the office
of the altar without devotion, never said mass without tears,
whereof he shed so great a flood, that he did not seem to weep,
but to rain down tears, insomuch that the sacerdotal vestments
he wore could scarce be used by any other.*"
The affairs of the abbey, under the superintendence of this
lacrymose superior, gradually declined into great disorder; it
became evident to the monks, that abstinence, and the power of
shedding torrents of tears, were not the only qualifications which
were demanded by the duties of their head, and they therefore
chose, as the successor of Turgesius, Helias, who had been a
monk at Roche, who seems to have been a man of business, and
to have laboured with considerable perseverance to restore the
former prosperity and opulence of the community. Although
Helias had some difficulty, after his accession to the abbacy, to
manage the temper of Roger de Lacy, the grand-nephew of
Robert already mentioned, he succeeded in conciliating the regard
of that sanguinary and formidable baron, and obtained from him
numerous favours for the community ; he took from King John
the grange of Micklethwaite, and the manors of Collingham and
Bardsey, to farm as a fee at the king's hand, paying yearly four
score and ten pounds — he added the soc of Addle, the town of
Allerton, with some other places, to the estates of the abbey —
but at the same time, by the violence of King John, it was
deprived of the grange of Heton and the land of Thorpe. For a
century after the death of Helias, nothing can be recorded of the
establishment at Kirkstall except the names of the abbots. They
were, Ralph of Newcastle, who succeeded Helias, and died in the
* Hist. Kirks. Abb. p. 83, 84.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 395
reign of Henry III., on the ninth of the ides of April. Walter
was the next abbot in the same reign, and died on the second of
the ides of October. Maurice followed in 1222, and died in 1249,
in the same reign. Adam succeeded Maurice on Friday se'nnight
after Easter the same year. Hugh Mikelay was inducted on the
17th of the kalends of April, 1259, and died on the kalends of
June, 1262, also in the reign of Henry III. Simon, his successor,
was created the 15th of the kalends of June in the same year,
and died on the 13th of the kalends of March, 1269, and in the
53d of Henry III. He was succeeded by William de Leedes on
the 2d of the nones of March, being then a Thursday, the same
year, and was Abbot till the Assumption of the blessed Virgin
Mary, in 1275. After him came Gilbert de Cortles, who was
created on the morrow after the Assumption of the blessed Mary,
and was abbot three years, one month, and four days, when he
either resigned or was deposed. He was, however, created abbot
a second time, and held the office until the feast of St. Peter ad
Vincula, 1280. Then Henry Carr was chosen, and after him
Hugh Grimston, in 1284.
When the last-named abbot was elected, the religious foun
dation at Kirkstall was in such a state of deplorable embarrass
ment, that it was absolutely necessary to take some decisive steps
to save it from utter ruin. The revenues of the monks were
exhausted by interest upon debts, and the live stock on the
lands, by a strange improvidence, had been nearly consumed to
supply the every day wants of the fraternity. Of this condition,
the following account is given ; the particulars were taken on
the day of St. Lambert, Bishop and martyr, 1232. " Imprimis,
draught oxen, 16; cows, 84; yearling and young bullocks, 16;
asses, 21 ; sheep, none. The debts which are certainly due, by
recognizance made before the Baron of Exchequer, £4402 12s. 7d.
Besides the writings laying in custody of the society, of James de
Fistolis, of 500 marks ; besides one writing, in the hands of the
Abbot of Fountains and of the Abbot Henry, of 50 marks;
besides 59 sacks of wool and 9 marks, due to Bernard Talde ;
and besides the acquittances in the hands of John Sadden, for
340 marks. In testimony thereof, we, the brothers, and Henry,
called Abbot of Fountains, have affixed our seal to these presents."
The debts, therefore, of the Abbey, besides 59 sacks of wool,
amounted to £5248 15s. 7d. — a very large sum for those days.
The creditors demanding the payment of their debts, the monks
were under the necessity of soliciting, through their patron,

396 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Henry de Lacy; the last and the greatest of his name., the inter
position of the king (Edward I.), to save the monastery from
destruction by suspending the claims upon the house. The letter
of the abbot Grimston, which describes the manner in which the
abbey was extricated from its embarrassments, will be found in
the note*
* Brother Hugh, called abbot of Kirkstall, to his beloved in Christ the convent
of the same house, health and blessing in the bond of peace,
Our distresses at the last general chapter with respect to Simon being ended,
on the morrow of St. Lambert we set out for Gascony, on an uncertain errand,
and with a bitter and heavy heart, as our beloved brother and son John de Bridsall
will inform you. But after many hindrances, and with great difficulty, both from
the unexpected length of the journey and the extreme poverty of Burgundy, which
we traversed through thickets rather than along highways, we met with the lung
in the remotest part of Gascony. On the way we were afflicted with a quartan
fever, which reduced us so low that we despaired of life ; but, blessed be the
heavenly Physician ! nothing more than a trifling remnant of the complaint now
hangs about us.
Here we found our patron, the earl of Lincoln, with other great men of the
court, attending upon the king, and to him we expressed fully and to the best of
our ability the distresses of the house. He was touched with pity at the represen
tation, and promised us all the information and assistance in his power.
And that the treasurer and barons of the exchequer aforesaid may faithfully
execute these writs, we have letters of recommendation addressed to them from all
the earls, bishops, barons, and other counsellors of the king attending upon him.
at this place. But because the king was not inclined to interfere with the debt due
to the cardinal, or to Tokes the Jew, or with him ; yet by the grace of God, obtained
through the mediation of your prayers, and by the mediocrity of our own under
standing, reflecting that, if either of these debts remained undischarged, it would
be productive of great inconvenience to the house, we Mt at length upon a remedy
which is likely to be effectual.
Por, having shown to the earl and his council an extent of our lands in Black-
burnshire besides Extwysell, and another of our lands in Roundhay, Schadwell,
and Secroft, it appeared that the above-mentioned lands and tenements, with the
addition of £4, which for several years last past we have received out of the
exchequer of Pontefract, deducting every thing which in reason ought to be
deducted, would amount to £41. 7s. 9d. yearly. Now this revenue might be sold
for £413. 75. 6d. What need of more words? Let there be no buying or sale
of these premises, but a dexterous exchange. So that instead of this £4=1. 7s. 9d.,
deducting uncertain and untried improvements, the possiblity of which we are not
convinced of, we shall receive yearly out of the exchequer at Pontefract twenty-
four marks for ever, with this excellent condition annexed, that the said earl, in
order to discharge the debt due to the cardinal and the Jew, engages to advance
three hundred and fifty marks, under the penalty of repairing whatever damage
may accrue to us by any irregularity in the payment.
But what it was that touched the abbot of Fountains with companion, by what

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 397
The success of this arrangement will be estimated by the fol
lowing inventory taken in 1301, three years before the death of
the abbot Grimston. " Imprimis, draught oxen 216, cows 160,
yeardings and bullocks 152, calves 90, sheep and lambs 4,000.
The debts of the house £160. In tesitmony hereof, Richard, abbot
of Fountains, affixeth his seal."
After the death of Hugh Grimston, John de Bridsall succeeded
to the abbacy. With his administration the chronicle of Kirkstall
ends, and little more can be given of the subsequent history than
the names of the abbots.
An interesting question arises at this stage of the narrative.
What was the state of morals during this long period in Kirkstall
reasons he was overcome, and how induced to give up a great deal for a little, it
would not be prudent to trust to paper.
And, that we might not be deceived in any of the premises, we have been care
ful to enroll in chancery the obligations we have received for payment of the above
sums, and the contract in like manner. Both these, moreover, are ratified by
the king's confirmation, which is in our hands.
And now, brethren, from what has gone before, ye may in some measure
understand what trouble we have endured. If, therefore, we have done well,
think of a recompense ; if otherwise, or even if we have been lukewarm in your
concerns, spare our infirmity.
But we require you that ye labour day and night, to the utmost of your ability,
that every thing belonging to you (excepting the crops upon the ground, which
cannot be removed without being destroyed), may be entirely taken away before
the earl's messenger, whom we purposely detain here with his horse and groom,
shall arrive to take livery and seisin of the lands.
And whatever is incapable of being removed, abandon peaceably, because the
earl, by his letter directed to Sir R. de Salem, which he will receive by the bearer
of these, hath required him to purchase, at a fair price, whatever you are inclined
to sell within his bailiwick, and to afford you ever other accommodation consistent
with the livery of the lands. A similar commission is addressed to the steward of
Cliderhow, for the lands in his bailiwick, by the bearer thereof.
It will not be prudent to show these letters to any one ; but, until you have all
safe, keep your own counsel secret from every one out of the bosom of the chapter.
And because we desire to be informed of what has happened since our ' departure1
before we make any new contract, which might possibly interfere with your present
circumstances, we require you, on sight and reading hereof, to inform us of your
situation by the swiftest messenger you have.
Send some money too by the same hand, however you come by it, even though
it be taken from the oblations, that we may at least be able to purchase necessaries
while we are labouring in your vineyard. In this we earnestly entreat you not to
fail ; for in truth we were never so destitute before.
Farewell, my beloved ! — Peace be with you. Amen.
From Castle Reginald, on the morrow
of St. Martin, A.D. 1287.

398 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Abbey ? — and did the monks of that institution exemplify any
thing approaching to that general profligacy with which the
monastic profession was generally chargable? We fear that
the almost universal censure which all Christendom passed upon
the luxurious tenants of the abbeys and monasteries of Europe,
was applicable to the ecclesiastics whose history we are now nar
rating. John de Bridsall, the last abbot we have mentioned,
found it necessary upon some conventual business to visit Canter
bury, from which city he addressed a letter to his brethren at
home, written, as its postcript states, with many tears (the unmanly
maudlin style of these monks would be amusing if it were not
contemptible). In this communication, the writer plainly alludes
to inconsistencies, or rather to vices, which he was evidently
afraid to describe distinctly npon paper. He says, " He wrote
unto certain persons, ' abstain from every appearance of evil,' and
avoid it before hand, whatever is or can be pretended on it behalf.
God shall give you the knowledge of these things;" and there is
another passage in the same letter to which we shall soon parti
cularly allude, which the author of the history has justly conceived
to conduct to the same conclusion. Another fact will reduce this
suspicion to certainty. After John de Bridsall, succeeded Abbot
Walker; then Abbot William, elected 1341 — then Roger dc
Leedes, elected 1349 — then John Thoruberg, elected 1378 — then
John de Bardsey, whose name occurs 1396 and 1399 — and then
Abbot William Grayson.
A very remarkable record, which corresponds with the time
of the last-mentioned abbot, was discovered among the charters
of the Cottonian Library, and has been translated by the author
of the History of the Abbey. The following is the document
adverted to. — " To all whom these presents may come, brother
Robert, Abbot of the Monastery of the Blessed Mary at Kirk
stall, health and faith in the following. Though by the insti
tutes of our order, the admission of women is prohibited under
heavy penalties within the precincts of Cistercian Abbeys ; we
nevertheless, being desirous of the salvation of souls, which
undoubtedly will be obtained as well by women as men, who in
certain days in the year happen to visit the church of the said
monastery of Kirkstall, and which visits, moreover, are clearly
allowed in some indulgencies granted by Pope Boniface the
Ninth, wc hereby tolerate, pro tempore, on the above-mentioned
days, the admission of women to the said church solely; provided,

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 399
notwithstanding, that such females be not introduced into any
other apartment within the confines of the said monastery, neither
by the abbots, nor by any of the monks, under the penalties
awarded by the aforesaid ordinance ; which penalties we by these
presents decree, and without remission enforce, as well against
the abbot as the monks of the aforesaid monastery, if they shall
be found to transgress what is permitted them. Given at our
monastery of Fountaynes, A. D. 1461." It has been conjectured
by Dr. Whitaker from this document, that the abbots of Foun
taynes exercised a certain superiority over those of Kirkstall,
and that they possessed an indefinable jurisdiction over the latter
monastery. As Kirkstall was the offspring of Fountaynes, this
may not be improbable. The letter, however this may be, most
certainly shews that the morals of the monks at Kirkstall had
been by no means blameless. The strong prohibition against the
introduction of females into the apartments of the abbots and
monks, shews that circumstances had occurred to render it neces
sary, and that the services of the church had been prostituted to
the purposes of profligacy and crime. This record further illus
trates the execrable superstition which these holy fathers were
accustomed to promote among the credulous and ignorant people
— the reader will perceive that both men and women were induced
to resort to the church of Kirkstall Abbey, upon the idea that
such visits might meritoriously involve the salvation of their
souls.* Here are superstition and sin going hand in hand, and
the pretended fathers of the church demonstrated to have rendered
the most solemn services of their holy religion, subsidiary to the
gratification of one of the most licentious passions of human
nature. After Abbot William Grayson, Thomas Wymbersley was con
firmed in the abbacy of Kirkstall on April 6, 1468. Robert
Kelynbeck became abbot, August 21, 1499, and after a presidency
over the affairs of the house of about two years, he was followed
by William Stockdale, created on the 10th of December, 1501.
William Marshall was next elevated to the abbacy, on the 5th of
December, 1506 ; and the last abbot was John Ripley, alias
* The author of the History of Kirkstall Abbey regards this acceptation of the
abbot's words, " the salvation of souls," as a mistake, and he will have it to mean
nothing more than the health or benefit of the soul to accrue from such visits.
With all due deference, however, to so respectable an authority, we can attach no
other meaning than that we have given to " salutem animarum."

400 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Browne, who surrendered this convent to the crown on the 22d
of November, 1540, in the thirty-first year of the reign of
Henry VIII.
When that memorable era arrived in which the fetters of
papal despotism in England were broken for ever, and the monas
teries, those receptacles of abomination, those strongholds of
superstition, were dissolved, the establishment at Kirkstall was
involved in the general ruin, and the long line of its abbots was
brought to a final termination. It is well known that, in the
reign of Henry VIII., two acts were passed for the dissolution of
the religious establishments. The first act, passed in 1535, pro
nounced the dissolution of all the houses whose revenue did not
exceed two hundred pounds a year ; in the operation of this act,
therefore, Kirkstall was not included. But the second act, passed
in 1539, which legalised the surrender of all the religious houses,
was the sentence of desolation to this celebrated monastic insti
tution. At the time of the dissolution, Dugdale estimates the
estates of the abbey at £329 12s. lid. per annum, and Speed, at
£512 12s. 4d.; but it appears, from some documeuts found in the
Augmentation Office, that the income considerably exceeded the
higher of these sums. Upon this subject the author we have so
often quoted states : " Barton asserts, that all the estates confis
cated were considered worth ten times the yearly revenue at
which they were rated in this visitation, and the conjecture
appears well founded. The system on which lands belonging to
monasteries were let, was that of short leases, on the renewal of
which, heavy fines were levied, and the rents allowed to remain
at their former amount. It would also happen in this, as in cases
of other official inquisitions, that almost the lowest possible valua
tion was that returned to the Exchequer by the Commissioners.
Taking, however, Speed's estimate to be correct, the revenue of
Kirkstall Abbey, at the period of the dissolution, may be fairly
set down as equal to between eight and ten thousand pounds per
annum of our present currency ; and taking into account the
improvement of the property in the interim, the estates of this
house would now produce a prodigious income." But there was
considerable property to be added, which was never taken into
the estimates of the annual worth of the estates. There was the
annual value of the granges which the monks retained in their
occupation — there were the cattle, the corn, and the other stores
which they possessed at the period — there were the plate and

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 401
other similar valuables — and there were other descriptions of
property, which must have amounted to an immense additional
sum. After the dissolution, the site of Kirkstall Abbey, and some
of the adjoining estates, were granted in exchange to the cele
brated Archbishop Cranmer, and were by him settled upon Peter
Hammond, in trust for his younger son. The estates must have
passed at no distant period to the crown ; for in the 26th of
Elizabeth they were granted by the Queen to Edmund Down-
ynge and Peter Asheton, and their heirs for ever. At an ulterior
period, which cannot now be precisely ascertained, the site and
demesnes, with the manor of Bramley, were purchased by the
Saviles of Howley, and they afterwards passed by marriage,
through the Duke of Montague, to the Brudenells, Earls of
Cardigan, in whose possession they still remain. Nearly five
hundred acres of the estates were, however, let about eighty
years ago, by one of the Earls of Cardigan, on a lease of nine
hundred and ninety-nine years, to the Rev. Mr. Moore, minister
of the episcopal chapel at Headingley, through whose daughter
the interest has passed to Sir Sandford Graham, Baronet.
The dilapidation of the abbey commenced immediately after
the dissolution. The roof was then taken from the church, the
bells from the tower, and the lead and timber from the other
buildings, and all were sold for the benefit of the crown. It
appears, too, from an entry in the churchwardens' books of Leeds,
in 1583, to have been contemplated as a sort of quarry for build
ing materials ; for it is mentioned, that a number of labourers
were employed, at sixpence a day, in removing the materials of
" Christall * Abbaye," to assist in the erection of edifices in that
town. The system of dilapidation never proceeded to the extent
which might have been anticipated from its early commencement,
and up to the middle of the last century, the venerable tower of
the abbey appeared to the observer to have suffered but little
from the ravages of time. In 1741 an old granary belonging to
the Abbey was taken down ; it was covered with slate brought
five hundred years before from the neighbournood of Elland, near
Halifax, which had become so indurated as to resemble steel
rather than stone. In the winter of 1746, the dormitory fell
* The supposition that this name was given to the place on account of the clear
ness of the water of the Aire, may he correct. The defiled state of the stream at
present, must afford a wonderful contrast to what it once exhibited.
3p

402 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
down; and on the twenty-seventh of January, 1779, two sides of
the tower, and part of the third, were hurled to the ground. Dr.
Whitaker records a singular discovery connected with this . cir
cumstance. Within a few days after the fall of the tower, he
discovered, imbedded in the mortar, several little smoking pipes,
such as were used in the reign of James I. for tobacco, a proof of
a fact which has not been recorded, that prior to the introduction
of that plant from America, the practice of inhaling the smoke
of some indigenous vegetable prevailed in England.* There can
be little doubt that the comparative preservation of the ruin is to
be ascribed to the early introduction of brick as a material for
building in Leeds, and also to the extreme hardness of the stone,
after the lapse of so many ages since it was taken from the quarry.
We shall now take a brief survey of the abbey, and then
bring this department of our history to a termination. The close,
with which all abbeys were surrounded, which was generally
fenced with a high and sometimes an embattled wall with one or
two splendid gateways, and beyond which the monks were not
permitted to proceed except on the business of their convent,
contained at Kirkstall about thirty acres. Parts of this high
and strong wall are yet remaining, by which the exterior build
ings and the live stock of the monastery were effectually protected
from the marauding incursion of the savage plunderers of the
borders, who were formerly accustomed to extend their desolations
over the whole north of England. The principal entrance was
from the north-west; part of the magnificent gateway is still
standing ; it is now occupied as a dwelling house by Mr. Spink,
and in the principal apartment the great arch of the gate is
distinctly discernible.
The original tower of the abbey rose but a very little above
the roof of the church. The subsequent addition, probably to
give increased importance to the external appearance of the
fabric, and to provide accommodation for a peal of bells, took
place about the beginning of the fifteenth century, and to the
same period has been ascribed all the deviations from the simpli
city of the original plan. The distribution of the internal accom
modations of the monastery may be ascertained with the greatest
exactness. The centre was formed by the usual large quadran
gular court, into which the various offices and apartments opened,
and which was entirely surrounded by a pent house cloister.
* Loid. and Elm. p. 1 19.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 403
The north side of this quadrangle was constituted by the nave
of the church. This fabric at Kirkstall is magnificent in its
ruins, and even those deviations from taste in its architecture,
which some fastidious observers have affected to condemn, were
no doubt intended to increase the solemn effect of its internal
appearance. The eastern side of the quadrangle was formed, first
by the vestry attached to the end of the south transept of the
church, then the chapter house, which in almost every monastery
was adorned with peculiar care — then the refectory, one long
ground room, and then two or three smaller apartments, whose
uses have not been ascertained, and over the whole was the dor
mitory for the monks. The south side of the quadrangle was
formed by the parlour, the kitchen, sculleries, butteries, &c, and
all the filth and offal, from the proximity of the Aire, could
easily be conveyed into the stream. The western side of the
quadrangle seems to have consisted of a dormitory for the lay
brothers, upon a line of arches supported by columns, which
formed a covered walk for the monks. The abbot's lodgings
were at the south-east corner of the building ; they constituted
a distinct edifice, much in the style of a capital manor house, and
the foundations of the fabric can still be very distinctly traced.
In the architecture of Kirkstall Abbey, the workmanship of
two perfectly distinct periods can immediately be ascertained.
The tower of the church, the great chancel window, and some of
the lanterns and minarets, are clearly of a far later construction
than the rest of the abbey. In referring to this subject, we
shall first of all quote the description of Whitaker, who has
observed these ruins with unusual care, and then we shall append
a few supplementary observations. The doctor says, " The abbey
of Kirkstall, by its superlative beauty as an object, has almost
undone the present work. As a subject of monastic, history
also, it has been nearly exhausted by the labours of Dugdale,
and his follower Stephens. Antiquaries are as familiarly ac
quainted with the circumstances of its foundation, the character
of its early abbots, and the particulars of its early discipline, the
ruin of its revenues by improvidence, and the assistance by which
they were restored, as if the transaction had passed before their
eyes. Draftsmen and landscape painters, good and bad, have
done their parts to delight or to glut the public taste with this
enchanting ruin, and the actuest curiosity might almost look in
vain for a point which has not been represented. The general

401 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
difficulty of access to the cloister-court has fortunately left one
aspect of this noble building inviolate, and it has not been
neglected by the draftsman.
" The cloister, court, which self-interest now preserves from
intrusion as an orchard, was the cemetery not only of the society
but of the wealthy laity of the neighbouring country, where two
yards of consecrated ground were often purchased by as many
oxgangs of productive land ; here a few fragments of gravestones
and crosses remain, but there is only one remnant of an inscrip
tion, on which little more is legible than the word Ricard in old
English characters. The lavatory, near the south-east corner,
has been richly adorned; west from this was the refectory, a
groined and not very spacious apartment. By opening all the
arches of the several apartments on the east and south once more
into the cloister, and closing the modern apertures outwards, by
simply lawning the area within, and by a judicious use of ivy
where any blank spaces require to be broken, or any deformities
concealed, this might be made a beautiful and singular scene ; for
there is, perhaps, no cloister quadrangle in the kingdom so entire
as this, with the exception of Fountains, which, though of much
larger dimensions, is designed in the worst taste, and of the worst
proportions I have ever observed in a monastic building.
" The great kitchen of Kirkstall, together with a suite of
apartments extending eastward from the south-east corner of the
quadrangle, towards the foundations of the abbot's lodgings, is of
much later date than the rest, and an imprudent superstructure
on the original tower, which rose but little above the acute-angled
roof of the church, overweighted one of the four great columns
at the intersection, which, after giving warning for several years
of its approaching fall, was suddenly crushed by the vast superin.
cumbent pile on Wednesday night, Jan. 27, 1799, and brought
down in its ruin more than two sides of the tower. Considered
merely as a ruin, the effect of the church was certainly improved
by this catastrophe; but the visible detachment of the end of the
north transept, and above all, of the great east window from the
adjoining walls, which might yet be prevented from increasing
by the application of buttresses, threatens, if neglected, to reduce
this noble remain to a state of yawning dilapidation, which will
be deplored when it is too late.
" It is a trifling circumstance, but not undeserving of mention
as a trait of ancient manners, but within a few days after the fall

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 405
of the tower, the writer of this account discovered, embedded in
the mortar of the fallen fragments, several little smoking pipes,
such as were used in the reign of James I. for tobacco ; a proof
of a fact which has not been recorded, that prior to the introduc
tion of that plant from America, the practice of inhaling the
smoke of some indigenous vegetable prevailed in England.
" Itisto theneglect of two centuries and ahalf, the [unregarded
growth of ivy, and the maturity of vast elms and other forest
trees, which have been suffered to spring up among the walls,
that Kirkstall is become, as a single object, the most picturesque
and beautiful ruin in the kingdom. Add to this the mellowing
hand of time, which by rounding angles, breaking lines, and soft
ening down the glare of recent colouring, may be regarded as the
first of all architectural landscape painters."
Notwithstandingthelooseappearancewhich some ofthestone-
work has contracted by the decomposition of the mortar, it is evi
dent that the masonry of the building was exquisitely fine, there is
no doubt that the whole of the exterior was finished with the same
exactness as is still perceptible on the north side of the abbey, and
some of the pillars which yet remain have been polished in a man
ner which cannot be paralleled in any modern workmanship of the
same rough material. The architecture of the church is by no
means unique. The roundheaded arches of the loop hole windows
of the north, probably contracted to narrow dimensions to give
only a "dim religious light" to the church, are contradicted by
the pointed style which every where prevails in the interior, and
the whole strikingly confirms the observation of Milner,* who tells
us that " in the ecclesiastical buildings of the twelfth century,
pointed arches were every where intermixed with circular ones.
Theformerwere more generally placed upon massive Saxon pillars,
and even in some few instances at first were very obtuse, as in the
inter columniations at St. Cross near Winchester, or, what was
almost always the case, they were exceedingly acute, &c." We
shall content ourselves with one more quotation from the History
of the abbey upon this subject. " From the remnant of the
arched roof still covering the choir, it may be assumed that
the most exact agreement and proportion were observed through
the whole interior of the sacred edifice. Four great arches spring
ing from four massive clustered columns at the angles of the
nave, transepts, and choir, supported the tower and apparently
* On the Ecclesiastical Architecture of England, 90, 91.

406 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
formed the centre from which diverged the probably groined and
ribbed roofs of the rest of the church. In all that survives of
these parts of the building, the same love of elegant simplicity
and scrupulous taste may be discovered, as in the plainer and more
substantial erections."
The progress of decay in ancient buildings, has generally been
connected with the progress of discovery, and as the dilapidated
edifices gradually crumble into ruin, interesting relics of former
times are exposed to the research of the antiquary. But few
discoveries have, however, been made at Kirkstall Abbey. In
1825, a number of square tiles of small dimensions, of different
colours, and glazed on one side, were found near the ruins of the
chapter house, and in all probability formed the bottom of a small
font or cistern, raised a few feet above the level of the floor. In
the following year, the foundation story of the corn mill used by
themonks was detected and cleared out, and is now inclosed within
the wall of the garden connected with the house to which we have
before alluded, as having been formed out of the grand north
western entrances. This corn mill was of course worked by water;
and the manner in which the stream was conveyed to it, is another
demonstration, in addition to the many we have given, of the
industry and expenditure of the monks, in promoting their own
comfort and the completion of their establishment. The goit by
which the water was brought to turn the wheel, commenced near
Horsforth ; it originally proceeded, no doubt, in a straight line
to the abbey mill; and it is conjectured, that the water, after
having served its purpose of grinding the corn, was distributed
in subterraneous channels through different parts of the building,
to subserve its cleanliness and convenience. Part of this goit is
still used to convey a stream from the wood below Horsforth to
Kirkstall Forge, where it assists in moving part of the machinery
of that immense establishment. On the 13th of April, 1826,
while some boys were amusing themselves among the ruins of the
chapter house, they discovered an aperture in one of the walls,
and their curiosity being excited, they removed the external slab.
It then appeared that a rude coffin had been placed in the wall;
some of the bones of a human body, including parts of the skull
and jaws, were found, together with a quantity of dust, which
* History of Kirkstall Abbey. "VVe cannot take leave of this author without
recommending most warmly his very useful work to all who are anxious to acquire
some information relative to the mode of ancient conventical life in -England.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 407
had once constituted an animated frame. No inscription was
found upon the flags, but it was conjectured that the person who
had been interred in this remarkable receptacle, had been distin
guished, as one of the superiors or principal benefactors of the abbey,
and was probably either one of the abbots or of the de Lacies.
The ruins of Kirkstall Abbey form the most beautiful object
in this district ; and, a few years ago, the grounds in the neigh
bourhood were preserved in admirable adaptation to the scene.*
* Of the numerous descriptions which have been given of this ruin, we shall
extract two, which we have no doubt will interest our readers. Gent's sketch of
the abbey runs thus : — " The stately gate north-west of the abbey (as may appear
by the magnificent arches on each side), through which they were once used to pass
into a spacious plain, at the west end of the church — the chrystal river Aire inces
santly running by with a murmuring noise — the walls of the edifice built after the
manner of a cross, having nine pillars on each side, from east to west, beside three
at each end, in the transepts  the stately reverential aisles in the whole church 
the places for six altars, on each side of the high altar, as appears by the stone pots
for holy water — the burial place for the monks on the south side (near the palace),
now made an orchard — the arched chamber leading to the cemetery, next the
church, in the walls of which are yet to be seen several largestone coffins  the
dormitory, yet more south-east, with other cells and offices — all these are enough
to furnish the contemplative soul with the most serious meditations. The abbey
now is only a mere shell, with roofless walls, having yet a well-built hut uncovered
steeple, the eastern parts embraced by its ivy, and all about the whole pile desolate,
solitary, and forlorn."
A writer in the Gentleman's Magazine thus describes the impressions created
by tills place in 1 806 : — " The west front is much richer than Fountains ; the
doorway is highly embellished ; over, two conjoined windows ; still higher, a single
window, once lighting the roof. On the sides of the front are breaks, or buttresses,
which, with the pediment, terminate with embellished turrets. The ambulatery in
continuation is much ruined. The east front of the church accords in decorations
with the west front ; the east window is large. Viewing the interior part of the
church from the west doorway, the nave has lost the groins ; those to the side aisles
remain. The choir retains its groins. The centre tower has remaining its south
and part of the east sides. The chapter-house is not only uncommon in design,
hut possesses much of the sublime. It is an oblong, divided into two portions by
double arches ; that portion contiguous to the cloisters has the remnant of a cluster
of columns in the centre supporting two divisions of groins ; and so strongly is the
masonry united, that, notwithstanding all the columns are gone except the centre
one, the capitals belonging to them, and the springing of the groins, retain their
positions, to the utter astonishment of all beholders. Ever let me seize each
opportunity to hold up to praise the wonderful skill of my ancient brethren, and
ever cry, What was their system of construction, and what were their materials,
thus to combine, bidding after-ages look on and marvel ! The second portion east
ward is without a centre cluster of columns, the groins springing from angle to
angle. The windows are large, and contain seats, no doubt intended for the reli-

408 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
The close within the outer walls was a fine open pasture, no
intrusion either of roads or of buildings had destroyed its privacy,
and a more favourable situation could not be found for the
indulgence of contemplation, and of recreative pleasure. Fifty
years ago, a pleasant footpath along the fields and the trees by
the banks of the Aire, led from Leeds to the abbey ; and at the
bridge, a corn mill, a few straggling houses, and the inn which
still retains its respectability, constituted the whole of the village.
But the new road was formed from Kirkstall to Leeds, numerous
habitations were built for clothiers, and an immense woollen
manufactory began to pour forth its volumes of smoke, and to
emit its din of machinery. The subsequent change we shall
relate in the words of a writer on the abbey. — " Notwith
standing these menacing appearances, the sanctity of the abbey
and its surrounding groves still remained inviolate, and the whole
were only to be approached on foot, or, as it were, with that
reverence due to the sacred associations of the place, and the
venerable aspect of the pile. Within these few years, however,
the retirement of the scene has been rudely invaded by the
relentless hand of social utility. A new turnpike road from
Kirkstall bridge (to Ilkley) now passes by the church walls, and
the soft verdure that fondly enriched the ruin is torn up and
disfigured by the harsh traces of social convenience. The north
west gate, originally the chief entrance to the monastery, and for
some time converted into an agreeable dwelling house, is thus
cut off from the abbey, and, in a word, the former integrity and
loneliness of the place are irretrievably destroyed. ...Previous to
the period just indicated, a path was permitted through the
church, from the chancel window to the great western door ; and
beasts, sometimes in the shape of cattle, and sometimes in other
shapes, then amused themselves in defacing the picturesque graces
of natural decay, and in aiding the destructive rage of the ele
ments. How deplorable, therefore, to reflect that, after the
interior of the building had been protected from wanton injury,
gious when seated in council. Much of the architecture of Kirkstall is Saxon ;
and that which presents the pointed style is as low down (seen chiefly in the centre
tower) as the Tudor date.
" It is impossible to leave these exalted ruins without lamenting (unavailing
passion !) to see them left open to every depredation and defilement. Is the remem
brance of former uses forgotten ? Are all the fine feelings for English antiquity
absorbed in heedless indifference ?"

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 409
and a disposition evinced to uphold, by well-judged repairs, the
more frail but important features of the tottering structure, a
step should have been deliberately adopted, not only inconsistent
with these objects, but subversive of the solemn tranquillity and
soothing effect of the ancient desolate fabric."

CHANTRIES.
There were other ecclesiastical buildings besides the churches,
the monasteries, and the nunneries, which were founded in the
middle ages by the mistaken piety of the times, or rather by the
genius of the papal superstition, and these were the chantries
OR CHAPELS DEVOTED TO PARTICULAR PURPOSES, of which
there were a great number in our district, although the situations
and the names of most of them have sunk into oblivion. Our ac
counts of the chantries and of the churches, to which we shall
next proceed, must necessarily be very contracted.
The BEAUTIFUL CHAPEL on WAKEFIELD BRIDGE,
commonly supposed to have been built by Edward IV. after the
battle of Sandal, is the only one of which an extended account
need to be given. This is unquestionably one of the most beauti
ful edifices of the rich Gothic style of architecture of the four
teenth century, now remaining in the north of England ; and the
western front, for grace of figure and profusion of ornament, is
altogether unparalleled in this part of the country. There is no
doubt that the attribution of this exquisite fabric to Edward IV.
is altogether unfounded. It is true that Archbishop Holgate, who
was translated to the see of York about A.D. 1544, declares that
this was the case, and that both Leland and Camden have recorded,
or rather repeated, the same story ; but a date considerably ante
rior is to be ascribed to the original building, which, if Edward
IV. ever meddled with it at all, he only re-edified and beautified,
but certainly did not construct. A charter copied by Mr. Hop
kinson into his collections, and dated A.D. 1357, 31 Edward III.
demonstrates, that the king we have just named vested a rent
charge of ten pounds per annum on William Kaye and William
Bull, chaplains, and their successors for ever, to perform divine
service daily in the chapel of St. Mary, then newly erected on
Wakefield bridge, which sum was charged upon different manors
3g

410 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
and townships in the neighbourhood. The antiquity of the cha
pel, which this charter argues, is fully substantiated by the
figures in the front, which appear to have been designed to repre
sent the twelve apostles, over which probably there has been a
statue for Christ now completely destroyed.* A laborious author,
to whose intelligent investigation of this very remarkable build
ing we are deeply indebted, tells us, that the two figures which
the observer will immediately perceive on one side, were most
likely intended for David and Solomon, as they seem like kings ;
and that the remains of statuary on the other side, exhibiting a
woman in a reclining posture, with another female, represented
St. Ann with the Virgin Mary her daughter. With respect to the
antiquity of these statues, our author argues it from some others
which were discovered, and which had been taken from the roof,
and quotes the testimony of Dr. Pegge, upon these subjects most
certainly one of the best of all possible authorities. The doctor says
that in the month of May, 1756, " there were found in the roof
of a small chapel at Wakefield, a large number of figures — some
in alabaster and some in wood, richly ornamented with painting
and gilding, and very antique. The figures are attended with
their proper attributes to distinguish them one from another,
and to betoken to us the persons they respectively represent."
This, the doctor adds, " is a requisite which undoubtedly ren
ders it the more valuable, since otherwise at this distance of
time, for they have lain as long concealed as since the reign of
Henry VIII. and are no doubt in themselves much older, we
should have been greatly at a loss to have known to whom each
figure appertained." Dr. Pegge, after shewing that one of these
figures was designed to represent the celebrated St. William, the
30th Archbishop of York,t and that it was of very ancient date,
describes the rest of the figures as equally beautiful, " one of
them representing St. Ann, the mother of Mary, teaching the
young virgin to read, and the other two saints in the act of mar
tyrdom — this is a group of fifteen figures in alto relievo. There
* See Mr. Scatcherd's Tractupon this Chapel, p. 14.
-|- This Archbishop occupies a prominent place in monkish legends on account
of a miracle he is said to have performed at York. On his entrance into that city,
1154, the wooden bridge over the Ouse, broke down in consequence of the crowd,
and a great number of persons were in danger of immediate death. St. William,
however, immediately fell upon his knees, and the fervent prayers which he poured
forth on the occasion were so effectually answered, that not a single life was lost.
Scotch. 15.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 411
are in all, no less than twenty five different pieces, taken chiefly
out of the Old Testament and the New." These figures were
supposed at the time, and the supposition appears to have been
correct, to have been removed from this chapel for safety at the
time of the reformation, and to have been considerably older than
the commencement of the sixteenth century.* The connexion
believed to exist between these figures, and those still remaining
in the front of the chapel, is almost decisive of the greater anti
quity of the building than is commonly ascribed to it. The accounts
of these existing figures " tell us plainly that they were all scrip
ture pieces and have no reference whatever to the battle of Sandal
— they persuade us to believe that they belonged to the chantry
erected upon the bridge in 1357 — and therefore that the present
chapel is one hundred years older than ever Leland, Holgate, or
Whitaker dreamed of, besides being built for a different purpose."f
The occasion of the erection of this chapel is very rationally
considered by our author, as originating in the gratitude of the
townsmen of Wakefield, who, even in this early age, were enriched
by their manufactures of course drapery, whose trade was par
ticularly fostered and protected by Edward III. and who would
therefore very naturally " build a better bridge and chapel, and
give the latter to the King."
" In order to give the reader the full benefit of this curious information, we
subjoin another and a more particular account of the figures. In May, 1756, in the
false loft of an ancient house, used as a chapel, at the bottom of Northgate, in Wake
field, a number of statues were found, by a workman — These were admirably
executed, in various metals, as well as in wood and alabaster, each adorned with
appropriate emblems, and are supposed to have been conveyed from Sandal Castle,
and the chapel on Wakefield Bridge, by the religious, in the reign of Henry VIII.
through a subterranean passage, part of which is now to be seen opening into a cel
lar, near the old building, where they were found, at least so said the advertise
ment of Mr. Buck trout, who travelled with the figures as an exhibition. They
represented Moses and Aaron, Kings David and Solomon, Christ, the twelve Apos
tles with their respective emblems, St. Paul, St. John the Baptist, and the three
magi, Jasper, Melchior, Balthazar ; St. Ann, mother of the Virgin Mary, teaching
her to read ; St. William, Archbishop of York, with his pastoral staff and mitre,
and a monk at his feet praying ; a figure with a mitre ; a fine representation of
two saints suffering martyrdom, in alto relievo, in alabaster ; St. John the Evan
gelist was represented in the cauldron surrounded by St. Polycarp, St. Ignatius, the
principal Roman magistrates, and the executioners ; and another group consisted of
a saint lying on a board, whilst his intestines are twisted gradually out, by a spit
turned round by two lictors. ¦f- Scatcherd 17.

412 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
With respect to the mutilation of this chapel by the devasta
tions of some modern repairers or rather desolators, a writer in the
Gentleman's Magazine in 1809, delivers himself in the following
lively terms. " King Edward's chapel of which a previous cor
respondent speaks in such high and deserved terms of admira
tion, is alas ! a woeful instance of mutilation by these pretenders
to architectural knowledge  It is now (1809) cleared of its
former occupiers (clothesmen and flax dressers) and is used as a
news room  But it has been repaired — repaired? yes,
and in a truly Gothic style — the beautiful tracery of the windows,
rarely to be equalled, is totally demolished — not a wreck is left
behind, and its place is now supplied by cross headed mullions
filled up with spruce modern sash squares. What Goths some of
these modern architects are ! But the demon of innovation was
not to be appeased with even such a sacrifice as this. Some other
offering in defiance of taste was to be made. The front, that inimi
table example of rich tracery and chaste ornament, presented itself
to the despoiler, and in order to give a finish, probably as he
thought to the dilapidated buttresses, he propped them up with
short round pillars — four little short round laughable things, all
in a row ! It is really too much for common sense to be so out
raged ; but I have no expectation of seeing a better knowledge of
ancient architecture infused into the heads of many of our modern
architects, although they have before their eyes the very exam
ples which they ought to follow. When this is the case, every
admirer of our ancient buildings must tremble for their fate when
they are to be repaired." It ought to be remarked at the conclu
sion of this extract, that although the censure it contains on the
ignorance of modern architects might be very true five and twenty
years ago— it is no longer extensively applicable — many of the
architects in this part of the country, more particularly, have dis
played an admirable union of knowledge, of taste, and of skill, and
some of the buildings which have been reared under their super
intendence, approach as nearly both to the form and to the sta
bility of the most splendid ancient edifices, which can be devised by
art, or accomplished by diligence.
It may be further observed that one of these architects to
whom this part of the country is deeply indebted (Mr. Chantrell
of Leeds) has allowed the author of the tract we have often quoted,
to state his opinion, that the chapel was built about 1340. It is
useless in a popular work to enter into any further disquisition

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 413
upon such a subject, suffice it to say that both the architect and
the author believe that the knotted crocketted oak leaf discernible
in this building is considered the best criterion in an architectural
point of view.''
* The following information upon the former uses of bridges and the custom
of erecting chapels upon them is so novel and so valuable, that we shall make no
apology for its extraction : — " Some writers have derived the word Pontifex from
sacrifices made upon bridges by the priests — a, ceremony of the highest antiquity.
These priests are said to have been commissioned to keep the bridges in repair as an
indispensable part of their office. * Being thus consigned to the priests, there were
chapels annexed to them, on almost all our bridges of note, as at London, York,
Durham, Rochester, and many other places, which I cannot now recollect or par
ticularise. The most remarkable one, however, seems to have been at Droitwich,
in Worcestershire, where the high road passed through the midst of the chapel —
the reading desk and pulpit being on one side, and the congregation on the other.
But bridge building alone, in the early ages, appears to have been regarded as an
act of piety ; and though generally carried on at the public expense, yet it was
greatly facilitated by the donations and bequests of particular individuals  In fact,
however, like all our best national improvements, institutions, and structures, our
great bridges were begun, completed, and supported, by ' the people.'
" But the priests appear to have taken an early leave of the bridges, and con
fined themselves to their chapels ; from whicli two certain inferences may be
drawn. First, that the emoluments of toll collecting did not answer their expecta
tions. And, secondly, that the office of collector and supervisor was by no means a
sinecure. " After being deserted by the priests, the bridges came to be superintended by
bridge masters chosen from the laity, and the contributions for their maintenance
became quickly more and more compulsory from this era. Next to the chapels
and towers or defences upon our bridges, appeared the prisons, the cages, or the
stocks, for the safeguard, exposure, or punishment of malefactors ; and at length on
a few, hospitals, guilds, houses, and lastly shops. These, however, were permitted
for the sake chiefly of pecuniary supplies, and towards the maintenance of the
bridge, at which tolls were often taken ; and the chief entrance into our towns being
over the bridge, the street was usually called Briggate.
" In this place I must be permitted to notice some of the other uses to which
our bridges were formerly converted, as the matter is rather curious. First, then,
we find, that on all great occasions of rejoicing and triumph, their parapets were
decorated with rich hangings of tapestry, standards, and cloth of gold. Pageants and
processions also were then conspicuous, and by them our kings were welcomed
into their chief towns and cities. Reflecting upon the magnificence of these spec
tacles, in connection with the bridges — their elegant chapels and other ornaments,
our forefathers would, no doubt, be forcibly reminded of that beautiful passage in
the Psalms. — ' There is a river, the streams whereof shall make glad the city of
our God — the holy place of the tabernacles of the Most High.1
" Secondly, we find, that, markets were often held upon bridges. The notices
we have of these markets, are, however, so short and so uninteresting, that I shall

414 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Besides the chapel on the bridge, there were no less than
eight chantries in the town and parish of Wakefield, which have
now passed into oblivion.
The CHANTRIES IN LEEDS were formerly numerous,
and some of them have already been referred to (see p. 108). The
first we mention, was the house at the north-west corner of Brig
gate, the chantry of St. Mary Magdalen, founded by William
Evers, vicar of Leeds, A.D. 1370, and the reserved rent with
other fee farm rents were the property of the celebrated Lord
Somers, Lord High Chancellor of England in the reign of Wil
liam III. There was another chantry below the ancient vicarage
house in Kirkgate, founded by Thomas Clarel, vicar of Leeds, in
1430, the rent of which was returned at the dissolution at
£4 14s. 4d. There was another chantry at the north end of the
bridge, which we have already referred to as coeval with that
structure, and of which the last priest was Sir John Clarke, who
pass them over with merely remarking that even in our nearest market town 
the town of Leeds — this relick of an ancient usage has hcen seen within the memory
of man. " Thirdly, viewed in connection with the trade, traffic, commerce, and the admin
istration of justice, we see the reason why our ancestors chose this site in many in
stances for the foundation of a town's hall, an exchange, a guild, an hospital, or a
prison. " Fourthly and lastly, we find them used to exhibit spectacles of a very different
and shocking kind, I mean the heads of criminals, or supposed criminals, which
were often placed upon spikes or poles on bridges, in order that they might be seen
both by land and water. I say supposed criminals, for many heads of holy mar
tyrs — many heads of most learned, enlightened, and virtuous men, have been thus
exalted npon bridges in this kingdom, amongst the number of whom, More and
Fisher arc well known instances— and as to other criminals, or supposed criminals,
where was there ever one who half so much deserved the axe or the halter, as that
wretch who occasioned the murder of these holy saints, and who has left to posterity
the character unique of having ' spared no man in his anger, or woman in his
lust ?'
" After what has been advanced, it seems scarcely necessary to apprise the rea
der, that these religious edifices were not merely receptacles for devotional purposes,
but for the rest — the refreshment — and security of the solitary and comfortless tra
veller. Here, when the churches were shut up — when the monastic houses also
were shrouded in darkness ; the lights in the windows of the little chantry upon the
bridge, or the beacon or lantern of its little tower, would be, to him, unspeakably
soothing and delightful. No doubt they would be of some use also to those who
navigated the river, where that was navigable. This however is but matter of con
jecture, while the other is a matter of fact.'1

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 415
died 1565. Another chantry, called the chantry of our lady, stood
near the old north bar. The name of the last priest of this chan
try was Bradley, and he died 1563. The value of this chantry
at the dissolution was estimated at £8 13*s. per annum. There
was a chantry at Holbeck valued at £4 per annum — another
chantry was founded at Farnley by Sir William Harrington, in
the 5th of Henry V. — and another chantry was founded by the
Scargills at Whitkirk. Besides these, there were other chantries
founded in different directions in our district, which have long
since disappeared, and the investigation of which would be of no
advantage either to the writer or the reader.

There is no doubt that the religious condition of the inhabi
tants of this district in the papal times, was truly deplorable.
We have found sufficient evidence in the preceding recitals to
prove, that light, and knowledge, and piety, were lost in gloomy
superstition, misery, and vice. The rapacity and the immorality
of the clergy we have reason to believe were enormous. Unhappy
indeed was the condition of the people ! the prey of a multitude
of monks and friars covering the country like locusts — defrauded
by the sanctimonious artifices of priestcraft of their wordly sub
stance and spiritual freedom — and destitute of any adequate in
structors to teach them the way of salvation or to conduct them
to the kingdom of heaven. It is highly probable that the people
who resided in this vicinity at the time of the reformation, were
remarkably wedded to the papal superstitions — that they regarded
with abhorrence the innovations of Henry VIII. — and that a con
siderable number of them, instigated by restless and discontented
ecclesiastics, united in that mad expedition — the pilgrimage of
grace — and partook of its disasters and disgrace. And as we shall
soon see, a long period elapsed before the doctrines of true Chris
tianity were embraced, or the blessings of religious liberty were
enjoyed.

416

CHAPTER II.
EPISCOPAL ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.

By Episcopal Ecclesiastical History, we mean that of the
Established Church in this district, descriptive accounts of its
edifices, and the notation of any particulars in the lives of its
clergy, which are sufficiently important to detain the attention of
the reader. Although the field is wide and the materials are
ample, we shall only attempt a condensation of the information
which is within our reach ; minuteness of architectural detail
we shall carefully avoid ; we shall give no long list of inscrip
tions upon insignificant tombstones ; we shall enter into no elabo
rate calculations on the dates of windows, of porches, and of stee
ples, but shall endeavour to glean in this department of our work,
all that is really valuable, to the utter neglect of what is unin
teresting and unimportant. Our best plan will be, to take each
of the towns and parishes as they have been arranged in our civil
history, and to give short accounts of each of the churches they
contain. SECTION I. THE ESTABLISHED CHURCH IN LEEDS.
The Old Church in Leeds, demands particular attention.
Before we present any observations of our own upon this edifice,
we shall abridge Thoresby 's very pleasing account of it, written
with lively quaintness, and displaying the anxiety of that very
worthy author, to maintain to their utmost extent the ecclesias
tical honours of his town.
" The parish church (which was dedicated to St. Peter) is a
very spacious and strong fabrick, an emblem of the church mili
tant, black, but comely, being of great antiquity ; it doth not
pretend to the mode of reformed architecture, but is strong and
useful. That there was a church here during the Saxon heptar
chy, when the kings of Northumberland had their palace here,
is more than probable ; but 'tis indisputable, that in William the

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 417
Conqueror's time there was, above 600 years ago, for that Domes
day Book (which I had the perusal of, by the favour of my hon-
our'd and kind friend Peter le Neve, Esq. Norroy King at Arms)
says expressly ibi est ecclesia et presbiter, fyc. and some parts of
the present church may be said to be of that antiquity, but it was
so far from being built with that exhibition, that Sardanapalus
(son of Pull King of Assyria, thence called Sardan-Pull) built his
cities, two of which his epitaph says he built in one day, that it is
evidently the work of ages, which have added both to its length,
breadth, and height. The fabrick of this church is plain, but
venerable ; the walls wholly of free-stone, the roof entirely cover'd
with lead, except that part of the quire only that belongs to the
impropriator. It is built after the manner of a cathredral, with
a large cross isle, and the steeple or tower in the middle of it.
The dimensions of the church are, length 165 foot, breadth 97 ;
height of the nave of the church 51, and of the steeple 96. Who
ever shall compare these with those in the new view of London,
will find there are but two in the 106 there mention'd (except the
cathedrals of St. Paul's and Westminster) that exceed it in
length, viz. St. Saviour's South wark, and St. Thomas's; and in
the latter sure there must be a mistake in the figures, as seems
evident by the great disproportion betwixt 256 in length, and 33
only in breadth) ; but admitting it right, neither of these were
originally designed for parish churches, but were composed of
several religious houses, which in later ages were made into one.
And as to the breadth there is but one that equals it, and but one
that surmounts it in the height of the body of the church, though
many in their steeples, this being only a square tower, without
spire, built rather for strength than beauty, and to contain eight
large bells (besides the Tintinnabulum) which ring in peal, and
wherewith may be rung 40,320 changes, and which chime day
and night, at 4, 8, and 12 ; but what is most surprising to stran
gers, is the spaciousness of the quire or chancel, which is within
the walls as much above 88 foot one way, as it wants of 60 the
other ; so that there is not a third part of those in London, the
length of which churches may not stand within the breadth of
this. And to add one word more, this is monthly fill'd for the
most part, twice round with devout communicants, one of the
most blessed prospects this world affords, besides much greater
numbers upon publick festivals.
" The roof of the church is supported by three rows of solid
3h

418 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
pillars of the gothic order. In the nave of the church are four
isles, which is one more than usual, that run from the cross isle
to the west end, where is a stately font ; 'tis gilt and painted,
and stands upon an ascent of three steps, surrounded with rails
and banisters. The body of the church is very well pewed with
English oak, and regular till of late years, that some seats are ad
vanced at the west end, and more remote parts, for persons of
distinction not before provided for ; those for the mayor, alder
men, and the vicar, are raised at the east end; and under the north
wall, that for the master and mistress of the charity school, with
40 poor boys and girls decently clad in blue. Upon the north and
east are spacious galleries of wainscot, wrought with variety of
work, directly opposite to the pulpit, which is adorned with a
black velvet cloth and gold fringe, are the town's arms, betwixt
two gilt maces in relievo. At the meeting of the great middle
isle with the large cross isle, the steeple is founded upon four
prodigiously large pillars and arches ; the north cross isle is called
the Queen's, the south seems to have been the chapel of St. Kath
arine's, where the place for holy-water is yet to be seen. And
against one of these pillars stood the pulpit in the days of yore,
when there were no seats in the nave of the church ; for before
the reformation there were no pews or different apartments allowed,
but the whole body of the church was common, and the assembly
promiscuous or intermixed, in the more becoming postures of
kneeling or standing.
" The chief glory of this church is, that upon the Lord's-day
it is generally filled with a vastly great and attentive congrega
tion, which is the most comfortable sight a pious christian can
behold ; though on the other hand it must be acknowledged, that
the thinness of the auditory upon the week-days constant prayers,
and occasional sermons, bodes ill, and ought to be resented
with the deepest concern. Whence this so general a neglect pro
ceeds, I cannot easily imagine, except from a supine thoughtless
ness, (which I take to be one main reason why the great truths
of the christian religion have so little efficacy upon the lives of
its professors) for did but persons seriously weigh the matter, and
consider of it, sure they durst not live in so unaccountable a
neglect of what their consciences witness to be their duty ; I
speak of such as have no scruple as to the manner of worship, or
just excuse of want of leisure by unavoidable business, but chiefly
such who can find time to spend in any thing but their devotions.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 419
What would the blessed martyrs and confessors in the Maryan
persecutions have thought of such a temper, and at how great a
rate would the poor Protestants at this day, in many countries,
purchase so great a happiness, as to know whether they might
freely resort to offer up their prayers and thanksgivings to God in
that solemn and publick manner, that we have the happy oppor
tunity of doing twice every day ?"
Of the old Saxon church, not a vestige can be expected to re
main, its fabric was most probably composed of humble materials,
and when the whole parish did not contain a population of a thou
sand souls, its dimensions cannot have been very considerable.
The whole of the original structure, says Dr. Whitaker, the out
line of which is undoubtedly included within the present extended
fabric, consisted probably of a single nave and choir, but subse
quent demolitions and substitutions have removed every vestige of
this primitive edifice. It has been conjectured that the first
Norman church was erected between the reigns of Henry I. and
John, but of this but few traces can be discovered. The oldest
part now remaining of the parish church of Leeds, namely, the
spacious and handsome nave, is referred by the writer we have
just quoted to the time of Edward III. " when the first introduc
tion of manufactures, of which that monarch was the father in
England, had introduced wealth and munificence, their usual
attendants." The doctor adds, "the rebuilding of the choir would
devolve upon the religious appropriators, who were seldom very
forward in such works. Thus probably the church remained till the
reigns of Henry VII and VIII. during which period the whole of
the north aisle from east to west was added, and the south aisle
rebuilt. The transept is probably coeval with the nave, and both,
as appears by the form of the arches connected with it, with the
tower  The nave measures ninety five feet in length and is
supported by three massy clustered columns, and four arches on
each side. The antique pointed gable is visible over the great
window, which proves this part to have been considerably raised
for the clere-story windows, which were probably added when the
north aisle was built, and the south side was enlarged. The fine
old stone tracery of the west window was removed in the year
1708. The whole church is one hundred and sixty five feet in
length, and ninety seven in breadth, the high choir fifty
seven feet in length ; in breadth twenty two ; in height thirty
six, and two hundred and seventy four in circumference, well

420 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
adapted to the most numerous communions perhaps in the king
dom ; for there is probably no other church where one thousand
communicants have been ordinarily observed." By a strange per
version of taste, for which it is impossible to account, the great
east window is obstructed, partly by a screen and partly by a vestry.
The exterior of this church is plain, and though exhibiting
some deformities and inelegances, is neat and imposing. The
west front exhibits a lofty pointed window of four lights, of
modern workmanship, and very clumsy ; it is made into three
series by single arched heads — a square headed window of six
lights terminates the end of the extreme north aisle on the same
front — the whole south side of the church was repaired and re-'
stored between 1808 and 1812 by Mr. T. Taylor— the nave is
made into five unequal divisions by buttresses — over the whole is
placed an embattlement, and in the second division from the west
is a large porch. The window of the south transept is of five
lights with arches, and tracery of very inaccurate construction.
The chancel is in three divisions with square windows of five
lights, and with ornaments similar to those on the nave ; of the
east window we have already spoken. The north side of the
chancel is similar to the south, the window of the transept is of five
lights with perpendicular tracery, the nave on the north is similar
to the south except in the absence of two pointed windows, the
places of which are blank, and with a circular arched porch sup
ported on columns. The tower rises at the intersection of the
nave and transept, it is square and embattled with buttresses at
the angles, with a pointed window and a clock face in each front,
and with a weather cock rising from the centre.
The arrangement of the galleries in the interior of this
church, greatly injures the general effect of its appearance — four
pointed arches, resting upon columns formed by a union of four
cylinders, divide the aisles from the body of the church — the font
at the west end of the nave, is an octagonal basin with blank
shields in each face — the window of the south transept, exhibits
beautifully painted glass, executed by an ingenious artist of the
town, afterwards unfortunately deprived of sight — in the opposite
transept is an elegant octagon font of modern workmanship — the
aisles are separated from the transepts by screens of carved oak
enriched by elaborate tracery — and the chancel, which is unpewed,
is divided from the aisles by three pointed arches resting upon
octagonal pillars. Before the reformation, a number of chantries

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 421
or chapels were attached to the church, which the reader will find
described in Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete, but of which we can
only repeat the names. The " Rockley Queere," belonging to the
ancient owners of Rockley Hall, the only family in the parish
which was honoured with such distinction, was on the south side
of the high choir — a chantry of the Holy Trinity was situated at
the east end of the aisle, immediately north from the high choir —
the chantry of St. Mary's, or as it was sometimes called " our
Lady's Service," was at the east end of the present north aisle1 — and
St. Catherine's chantry was at the east end of the south chantry.
The following is a brief account of the changes which have
taken place in the advowson of the parish church of Leeds. In
1089 it was given by Ralph Paganel to the priory of the Holy
Trinity at York. The holy fathers seem to have been perfectly
able to take care of their own interests, for without any appro
priation, and by a private bargain with the presentee, they assigned
to him only one third of the tithes and altarage, reserving the other
two thirds to themselves ; great contentions immediately ensued
between the incumbents and the patrons, until Walter Gray,
archbishop of York, put an end to the controversy by the ordina
tion of a vicarage in the church, The priory of the Holy Trinity
was dissolved A.D. 1538 by the prior and the priests, some of
whom were charged with the most odious crimes. The advowson
was then granted by letters patent to Thomas Culpepper, Esq. ;
his son Alexander disposed of it to Rowland Cowick of London; he
in the5th of Elizabeth passed it to Thomas Preston; he eleven years
afterwards sold it to Edmund Darnley of London, haberdasher.
Oliver Darnley sold it for £130 to the parishioners, and the gift
is now in the hands of twenty five trustees. The manner in
which the purchase of the advowson by the inhabitants was
effected, is highly honourable to them. The first protestant vicar
of Leeds was Alexander Fasset or Fawcett, who appears to have
been alike destitute of fixedness of principle, and capacity for the
communication of instruction. The people of Leeds, desirous of
escaping from the evil which they had to deplore of a ministry
by which they could not profit, and which they could not
esteem, determined to have the election of the vicar in their own
hands, and therefore obtained possession of the advowson for a
comparatively insignificant sum of money. " A greater benefit,"
exclaims Dr. Whitaker, " was never confer-red upon a parish. Had
it not been for this judicious and well-timed step, the cure of

422 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
many thousand souls might at every avoidance have been con
signed to some younger son, or some worthless favourite of a great
family, raw, dissipated, and ignorant ; the advowson might have
been advertised and brought under the hammer from time to time,
with the usual recommendations — the vicinity of a pack of fox
hounds or the certainty of good society and evening card parties."
The character of most of the vicars has fully vindicated the
step which was taken by the people, and in no other parish has
there been a succession of clergymen, who, with all the bigotry
which has been exemplified by some of them, have displayed a
greater freedom from moral inconsistency and contamination. A
list of these clergymen we shall now give. Robert Cooke, a
native of Kirk Beeston, in this parish, a powerful disputant and a
most acute and learned critic, was the first after the Fasset we
have mentioned. After his death in 1614, some difficulty occurred
relative to the advowson, which was decided by Lord Bacon, who
arranged the number and the names of the electing trustees, and
under whose patronage Alexander Cooke, the brother of the pre
ceding clergyman, was inducted to the living. He published
several works on the papal controversy, and seems to have pos
sessed the principles, and to have imitated the practice of his bro
ther. He died in 1632 and was succeeded by Mr. Henry Robin
son, the son of Mr. Alexander Robinson merchant of Leeds,
and Grace, the sister of the celebrated Harrison. The curious
history of this zealous royalist we have already given, (see p. 52.)
Mr. Peter Saxton, whose character we have elsewhere described,
and whose memory we have vindicated, (see p. 100,) was the next
vicar, and he was succeeded by William Styles, a moderate roy
alist. Dr. John Lake, afterwards bishop of Chichester, succeeded
after the restoration, and after his translation, the following
clergymen followed. Marmaduke Cooke, D.D. who died 1684 —
John Milner, A. B., resigned 1689— John Killingbeck, B. D.,
another native of the parish, who died 1716 — Joseph Cookson,
also a native of Leeds, and previously lecturer, who died 1745.
 After a dispute in which we feel no interest, and the parti
culars of which we shall not detail, Samuel Kershaw, A.M., followed
in the vicarage, and died 1786 — Peter Haddon, A. M. the only
person who since the purchase of the advowson had been vicar of
Leeds, who was not a native of the West Riding of Yorkshire,
died 1815 — and was succeeded by Richard Fawcett, A.M., a
native of the town, and the present vicar of Leeds.

423

EPITAPHS IN LEEDS OLD CHURCH.

Adjacent lyes John Hardwicke's corps interr'd
Whose Soul into the Land of Life's transferr'd
A lovely plant sprung from a noble race
Of modest vertuous life, of comely grace
Of pregnant wit admir'd of great and small
Loving and courteous, and belov'd of all.
Vertues Perfection, Natures Gem tho' deare
And much hewail'd too worthy to live here
A child in yeares yet grown in vertuous fame
And lives Immortal to preserve his name.
Upon Brass Plates on the adjoining grave stones.
Here lies his Fathers eldest Son
Whose Name was Edward Waddington
Close by his Grandfather John Thwayts,
Both snatch t away by Cruel fates
Whom God above (we hope) has blest
To live with him an endlesse rest.
To the memory of Mr. John Thoresby, who died Sept. 20,
1661, aetat 69. Here lies lamented precious Dust,
A tradesman true, a Justice just.
A Husband kind, a Parent dear,
Who walked with God in Faith and Fear.
Mr. Jer. Barstow, Obit. 25th April, 1711.
Death neither Youth nor Age doth spare,
Therefore to follow me prepare ;
Whilst Life doth last, let Piety
(As it was mine) your Practice be.
Let Vertue Crown your days, and then
We happily shall meet again.
Mrs. Jane, the truly dear and vertuous wife of Mr. Thomas
Potter of Leedes, merchant, departed this life the 22d Nov. An.
1679, aged 24 years.
This homely Case a Jewel doth contain,
But shew'd the World, and so laid up again.
With meek and chaste Behaviour every Grace
Inrich'd, which beautifies the Mind and Face.

424 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
John lies, 25th May, 1796.
Short was my Stay in this frail World,
all's hut a seeming Laughter,
Therefore mark well thy Words and Ways,
for thou comes posting after.
.ffitatis sue 19.
Here is interred the body of Henry Roundell, of Leedes,
Meadow-Lane, who departed this life, 28 Feb. 1671, oetat 74.
Here rests a Sage, a Pelican for Love,
To Wife and Childrens Children like the Dove,
Harmless to all, an Israelite, for Place
Once Alderman of Leedes, endu'd with Grace,
All Justice, Truth and Love, the Mall of Strife
Reviv'd with Love, in Peace laid down his Life.
The Poor Man's help, the Lame Man's Staffe, the Friend
To all good Men and Goodness to his End ;
Tho' dead, yet speaks because he liv'd to dye,
He dyed to live with Christ eternally.
Bona fama superstes.
To the precious memory of  and best of Men, Maister
William Lodge. He was the Poor Man's Lodge ....
The Naked's Cloaths, and each Afflicled's Mind,
For Counsel, Comfort, Help the Mall of Strife,
Division's Reconciler, and the Life
Of Union, of Feoffees, none more Just,
To Widows, Orphans, all in point of Trust,
The best of Husbands, Fathers, Neighbours, all,
Wife, Children, Townsmen, much lamented his Fall.
Obiit Novembris 4, 1648.
Obitumq^ ; deflevit masstissima conjux EL,
Here lyeth interred the body of George Jackson, of Hunslet,
who departed this life 5 Nov. Anno. Dom. 1672, aged 58.
To King and State, in spite of Fate,
I have been true and just,
For all which Pain, I shall regain
A Crown that shall not rust.
I hope that I, through Faith, shall fly
Where I shall speak and sing
The praises of the Living God
And Christ our Heavenly King.
Mors Patet, hora latet.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 425
Francis Powell, of the new chapel, Brazier, 23d May, 1665,
and Ann, his wife, 15th Oct.

The Night is past, the Stars remain,
So Man that dies, shall live again.
Our Warfare is accomplish'd, we rest in Hopes to see
A joyful Resurrection, when Time no more shall be.
Mrs. Mary Briggs, 20th July, 1706, aged 74.
Earth take my Earth, Satan my Sin I leave,
The World my Substance, Heaven my Soul receive.
Hodie nobis, crus vobis. Resurgemus.
There are several monuments in this church of a comparatively
modern date, whose inscriptions we should have inserted had our
limits permitted. The epitaphs on Alderman William Milner,
who died 1740 — upon Mr. John Dixon, the grandfather of the
present owner of Gledhow — upon Charles Henry Nevile, lieuten
ant in the second regiment of foot, who was killed on board Lord
Howe's ship, in the celebrated battle of June 1, 1794 — upon his
brothers John Pate Nevile, and Brownlow Pate Nevile, both lieu
tenants in the regiment of Guards, who died of the wounds
received in the campaigns in Holland — are each worthy of observa
tion. By far the most beautiful monument in this church, is that
which was erected by the inhabitants of Leeds to Captain Samuel
Walker, of the third regiment of Guards, and Captain Richard
Beckett, of the Coldstream regiment of Guards, who were killed
at the battle of Talavera in Spain, July 28, 1809. This monu
ment, designed and executed in marble by Flaxman, is one of the
most beautiful in the north of England.
ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, the second episcopal edifice in the
order of time in Leeds, owes its origin to the celebrated John
Harrison. Of this great benefactor, whose name to the present
day is never repeated in the town of Leeds without admiration and
applause, we shall say nothing at present, since his life and charac
ter will be described at length in our history of Charities. This
celebrated man, in the reign of Charles I., had acquired a consi
derable fortune, which he devoted to the purposes of benevolence
and religion, and in this church he has left behind him an impres
sive and durable memorial of his munificence. When he had
purchased the estate of the Rockleys and Falkinghams in the
nothern suburb of the town, he vested in certain trustees for the
3i

426 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
use of the minister of the church he intended to build, for the time
being, by deed of settlement dated Sept. 14, 1638, no less than
seventy one acres for a glebe, together with a house and garden
then valued at £11 per annum. It appears, however, that he
retained this property in his own possession during his lifetime,
as the minister's stipend, at that period, was paid out of the rents
of the pews. The erection of the church was commenced in 1631,
and it was consecrated by Archbishop Neale, September 31, 1634.
It is built entirely of stone. It consists of a nave, of a chancel,
and of a south aisle, with a plain tower at the west end, having
an embattled parapet with crocketted pinnacles. Dr. Whitaker
justly finds fault with the fact, that the windows are copies of two
distinct or rather remote periods, some being pointed and others
square headed. On the south side is a stone porch with a pointed
arched entrance to the church, seven pointed arches, resting on
octagonal columns, divide the aisle from the nave and chancel — the
roof, which is stuccoed and ornamented with arabesque work,
rests upon small sculptured figures — there is no change or break
in the arches to indicate a choir, in lieu of which a heavy screen of
carved oak enriched with foliage is thrown across the body of the
church — a gallery extends along the entire length of the building,
and at the west end is another gallery with an organ — the pulpit
and reading-desk are composed of oak, and are of elaborate con
struction — the pews are covered with carved work — and the whole
interior has an appearance of antiquity considerably beyond what
might have been expected from its date. Dr. Whitaker says, and
there is indubitable truth in his statement, that St. John's Church
has all the gloom and all the obstructions of an ancient church,
without one vestige of its dignity and grace. This description is
singularly different from that of Thoresby, which will be found in
the note.*
* The church itself is so noble and stately a structure as is scarce to be paralleled
in England, as founded, finished, and liberally endowed by one person, John Har
rison, Esq. ; a native and chief glory of this populous town, whose inhabitants were
grown so numerous that the old church, though very great, could not contain
them. In the church-wardens accounts, anno. 1608, I find a new stall made for
Thomas and Peter Jackson, &c. because they had no room any where in the church
to sit in, as it is expressly recorded by the learned Robert Cooke, then vicar. At
length all the vacant places being replenished with seats, and the nave of the church
also galleryed quite round, it was yet found too small for so numerous and unani
mous a congregation in those most happy days. It then pleased God to move the
heart of this pious and ever famous magistrate to build this uoble and stately church,

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 427
By the original deed of settlement, the right of nomination is
vested " in the vicar of the vicarage of the parish church in Leeds,
the mayor, and the three senior aldermen of the corporation for
the time being, or any three of them."
The first minister of the church was Mr. Todd, of whom some
account will presently be given, and who was suspended on the
very day that he entered upon the functions of his office. " The
truth was," says Dr. Whitaker, " that Archbishop Neale, a rigid
exactor of conformity, appointed his own chaplain, the celebrated
Dr. Cousin, afterwards bishop of Durham, to preach the conse
cration sermon. In the afternoon Mr. Todd occupied the pulpit,
and delivered a discourse in so different a strain, that though his
materials must have been previously prepared, the metropolitan
considered it as an answer to the morning exercise, and as an
affront to himself and the discipline of the church." Mr. Todd was
soon afterwards restored to his station, which he occupied until
the celebrated Bartholomew day in 1662. His successors have been,
1662, John Milner, B. D., afterwards vicar of Leeds — 1677, Aug.
6, John Kay, A. M — 1683, Nov. 25, Henry Robinson, A. M.
—1696, Bright Dixon, A. M.— 1709, Sept. 19, Henry Lodge,
A. M.— 1717, Samuel Brooke, LL. D.— 1731, John Murgatroyd,
A. M.— 1768, Oct. 7, Richard Fawcett, A. M.— 1783, William
Sheepshanks, A.M.— 1810, Francis Cookson, A. M. Mr. Fawcett,
for the augmentation of the salary of the minister, filed a bill in
chancery against the trustees, who thought themselves entitled to
withhold from the minister all the increased rents and profits above
eighty pounds, which was eight-ninths of the original income.
He obtained a decree in his own favour, so that the benefice is
now of at least six times its original nominal worth, and is there
fore very valuable.
so that the inhabitants, who before complained with the children of the children of
prophets, the place where we dwell is too strait for us, may now say Rehoboth,
God has made room for us. It was consecrated by Archbishop Neile, 21 Sept. 1634,
when then the founder was second time alderman of the corporation, he endowed
it with ;£80 per ann. and left also £\0 yearly to keep it in repairs. He lies inter
red under a monument of black marble, with this inscription, composed by Dr.
Lake, then vicar of Leedes, afterwards bishope of Chichester, and one of the
famous Seven, as appears by the original of his own writing, (now in my collection
of Autographs) with some alterations by his brother, the learned Mr. Milner, then
minister of this church.

428 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
The following epitaph of the founder is the only one in St.
John's church which we shall extract.
Here resteth the Body of Mr. John Harrison,
The Wonder of his own, and Pattern of succeeding Ages.
Eminent for Prudence, Piety, Loyalty 0 Charity,
who (besides other Works of a pious Munificence,)
And many great Instances of an excellent Vertue
Founded an Hospital for Relief of Indigent Persons
of good Conversation, and formerly industrious,
Built the Free-School of this Town for the
Encouragement of Learning.
Together with a Chappell, this Church (which most may envie)
for the Exercise of Religion,
and endowed it with Eighty Pounds per Annum.
Also that he might do Good in all his Capacities,
He erected a stately Cross for Convenience of the Market,
and having given these Pledges of a joyful Ressurrection,
fell asleep.
Octob. 29. Anno Dom. 1656.
iEtatis suie 77.
TRINITY CHURCH, by far the most beautiful ecclesiasti
cal edifice in Leeds, was endowed by the Rev. Henry Robinson,
at that time minister of St. John's, and the nephew of the cele
brated Harrison. While Mr. Robinson promised to endow the
church, when built, with lands to the annual value of eighty
pounds, Thomas Layton, Esq., of Rawdon, promised to contribute
one thousand pounds to the edifice — a promise which he never
fulfilled. Lady Elizabeth Hastings, however, of Ledsham, of
whom some biographical particulars will shortly be given, engaged
in March 21, 1721, to defray half the expense of the building,
provided that such half did not exceed one thousand pounds, and
on condition that Mr. Robinson should perform his prior promise
relative to the endowment. The site was purchased for £175 ;
the foundation stone was laid by Mr. Robinson, August, 23, 1761,
and it was consecrated August 27, 1727- The entire cost of the
building was £4563 9s. 6d., of which £3731 19s 6d. was the
amount of the subscriptions, and the remainder was supplied by
the sale of the pews. The consecration was performed with great
solemnity and ceremony by Archbishop Blackburn. Lady Eliza
beth Hastings, as the principal benefactress, was led into the
church with great pomp — an entertainment was afterwards given
to the archbishop and his officers at an expense of twenty-five

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 429
pounds, the fees of consecration amounted to ten guineas, and the
preacher, the Rev. Lewis Stephens, received five guineas for his
services. The patrons of Trinity Church are the vicar and the recorder
of Leeds, and the minister of St. John's Church.
The church itself is a very handsome and elegant building, con
structed with durable moorstone, and of the Doric order, although
the capitals of the columns within are Composite. It comprises a
nave, chancel, and aisles. It has an arched entrance in the west,
with a square window above, surmounted with a pediment. The
south side is made into seven divisions by Doric pilasters,
supporting a proper entablature, with a cornice above, having
vases at different intervals — in each division is a window, with
alternately an angular and circular headed pediment, and above
each of these is a small square window. The tower, which rises
from the roof at the west end of the church, consists of two stories,
the first with coupled Ionic pilasters at each angle, and the second
with Corinthian pilasters. A small dwarf spire, which formed no
part of the original plan, and which is certainly by no means con
ducive to the uniformity and beauty of the building, surmounts
the tower, and exhibits on its summit a lamb and a cross. The
interior of the church is very neat; the roof rests upon two rows
of graceful cylindrical columns ; the galleries, which were con
structed in 1756, occupy three sides of the building; the mate
rials are excellent, the workmanship is admirable, and, as a whole,
the church is highly creditable both to the taste and the munifi
cence of its founders. In 1793, five hundred and twenty three
square yards of land were purchased by the trustees on the north
side of the church, for the purpose of erecting a house for the
incumbent. There are no epitaphs outside the church, and only
two within, of any consequence, those of the founder of the church
and of Mr. Scott, the first minister. The benefactions of Mr.
Robinson will be described in their proper place. The following
have been the curates of Trinity Church : James Scott, A. M. ;
Richard Kirshaw, A.M., ob. 1791 ; Francis Cripps, A. M.; John
Sheepshanks, A. M. The Rev. Mr. Holmes, Master of the Free
Grammar School, Leeds, is the present officiating minister.
ST. PAUL'S CHURCH is a very plain, but neat and elegant
edifice, on the north side of Park Square. Its component material
is brick, but its quoins and dressings give it the appearance of a

430 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
building of stone. The eastern and western fronts display four
Ionic pilasters supporting an entablature and pediment ; in each
of the outer divisions is a doorway and window, and in the centre
are two windows. Each of the sides of the church has a tier of
small square windows, and above them circular headed windows.
At each angle of the building is a large vase. At the western
end of the roof is the tower, consisting of three stories — the first
square, with the clock ; the second, with circular headed windows
at each side, and vases at the angles ; the third has two Ionic
pillars at each angle, and the whole is crowned with a dome and a
cross. This church has agallery which extends round the whole
edifice, and it presents a curious anomaly in ecclesiastical archi
tecture, having the organ over the communion table, and galleries
for the children on each side of it.
The existence of this church is to be ascribed to the zeal and
activity of the Rev. Miles Atkinson, vicar of Kippax, and lecturer
at the parish church, who, assisted by his friends, accomplished
this arduous undertaking at an expense of ten thousand pounds.
The ground was given by Dr. Christopher Wilson, bishop of Bris
tol, and the church was consecrated by Dr. William Markham,
archbishop of York, on September 10, 1798. The founder of the
church was the first preacher; he was succeded by his son, the Rev.
Christopher Atkinson, and the Rev. Miles Jackson is the present
highly respected minister.
ST. JAMES'S CHURCH was originally intended for the
dissenters, but the persons who had become responsible for its com
pletion having failed, it was purchased from the assignees, and
consecrated by Archbishop Markham. It is an octagonal building,
in a very close and unpleasant situation, very near the old church.
The interior is neat; it has a gallery round the whole edifice, and
is furnished with an organ. The present minister is the Rev.
Mr. King.
When the act for the building and promoting the building of
additional churches in populous parishes passed the British Legis
lature in the fifty-eighth year of George III., two new churches
were erected in the town, and one in the immediate vicinity of
Leeds. CHRIST CHURCH, in Meadow Lane, is one of the most
correct and beautiful modern ecclesiastical structures in the county

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 431
of York. To enter into a technical description of it, is unneces
sary, and would be unintelligible to general readers. It consists of
a nave and a chancel with aisles, and a very light, graceful, and
elegant tower at the west end, one hundred and twenty-seven feet
high, of the decorated architecture of the fourteenth century.
The whole of the exterior, especially the western front, is very rich
and striking. The interior of the church presents a very spacious
area, and uncommon beauty both of design and execution. The
side aisles, which are divided from the body of the church by six
pointed arches, have no galleries ; there is however a deep gallery
with a good organ at the west end, and under it there is an octa
gonal font, very well executed. A half length painting of the
Saviour is placed over the altar. The interior arrangements and
appearance of this church are superior to any thing of the kind
in this district, and the whole edifice does honour to the taste and
abilities of the architect, Mr. R. D. Chantrel. This church is
built of Bramley Fall stone, the architect's estimate amounted to
rather more than thirteen thousand pounds, and the contract, with
the incidental expenses, to more than ten thousand four hundred
pounds. The first stone was laid on January 29, 1823, and it
was opened and consecrated in 1826; it contains accommodation
for 1249 persons, there being pew seats for four hundred and
forty-nine, and free seats for eight hundred.
THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY'S, on Quarry Hill, it is
unnecessary to describe with minuteness. Although it is built
entirely of Bramley Fall and New Laithes stone, it has no par
ticular architectural character, it forms as complete a specimen of
what is called Carpenter's Gothic as can well be conceived; its ex
ternal appearance is incongruous and mean, and although the
tower rises to a considerable height, it is very heavy and clumsy
in its general effect. The interior, however, is spacious and
light, and though the minutiae are inconsistent, it is on the whole
a very handsome church. It has no organ, and only one small
gallery at the west end, under which is a font. It contains 1207
sittings, of which eight hundred are free, the architect's estimate
(the late Mr. Taylor) amounted to more than twelve thousand
five hundred pounds, and the contract, with incidental expenses, to
very little short of eleven thousand pounds. The first stone was
laid on January 29, 1823, and it was consecrated and opened in
1827. The church yard is one of the most spacious and commo-

432 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
dious in Leeds, and a little to the east of the church a very
extensive and convenient school-room has been built since the
consecration. The Rev. Mr. Cookson is the present minister.
ST. MARK'S CHURCH, at Woodhouse, erected under the
same act, is built of Bramley Fall and Park Spring stone, and is a
very pleasing edifice of the architecture of the fifteenth century. It
consists of nave, chancel, and aisles. The tower at the west end,
which is not included in the plan, is very airy and elegant ; the
interior is very handsome, with a good groined roof, a gallery round
three sides of the building, and a fine organ. It contains about
the same number of sittings, and in the same proportion, with St.
Mary's and Christ Church, and will accommodate four hundred
persons in pews, and eight hundred in free seats ; the estimate of
the architects (Messrs. Atkinson and Thorp,) amounted to ten
thousand five hundred pounds, and the contract with incidental
expenses to rather more than nine thousand pounds. The Rev.
J. Fawcett is the present minister.

433

EPISCOPAL PLACES OF WORSHIP IN
THE PARISH OF LEEDS.

An episcopal chapel was first erected at HUNSLET, about
1636, when the population of the township began rapidly to in
crease in consequence of the divison of the Nevile estate into a
number of private hands. In 1744, it was enlarged to twice its origi
nal dimensions. It is a very unpretending plain edifice of brick, the
interior has a gallery and a font, and a tower with a clock was
built by subscription in 1832. The following ministers have offici
ated in this chapel since its foundation. The Revds. Thomas
Hawksworth, deprived 1662 — Townes, 1664 — John Paley, ob.
1731 — William Barrow, ob.1741 — Robert Baynes — Henry Crooke,
ob. 1770— James Milner, A. M. 1808— Richard Forster, A. M.,
the present minister. The living is valued in the Liber Regis, at
£15 16s. 8d. and in the parliamentry return at £140.
THE CHAPEL AT HOLBECK was a very mean edifice,
on two sides blocked up by the other buildings, and as Dr. Whit
aker justly says, placed " in the darkest and most crowded corner
of this most dark and crowded place." The new church, however,
is a handsome structure of stone, in the early style of English
architecture, with a high and substantial tower at the west end.
It accommodates 1200 persons, 606 in pews, and 594 in free
seats ; the first stone was laid August 15, 1829 ; it was opened
in 1832; the architect's estimate (Mr. Chantrell of Leeds) was
£3786 10s. lid.; and the site was the gift of the Marchioness
of Hertford. The old chapel is now occupied by one of those use
ful and admirable institutions, a Sunday-School. The following is
a list of some of the clergymen who have officiated in this chapel,
Revds. Sir Richard Beckwith, 1575— John Nelson, 1637— Robert
Armitage, deprived 1662  Pickard, 1666 — William Scargill,
1686— William Forster, 1721— Francis Day— Wm. Carr, A. M.
—Richard Fawcett, A. M. — Joseph Hague, ob. 1774 — Joshua
Brooke — J. Bushby the present minister.
3k

434 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
THE CHAPEL AT BEESTON is one of the oldest in the
opinion of Dr. Whitaker — he might have said it is the very oldest,
in the parish of Leeds. The same author also states that the
lancet window at the west* end, is as old as the reign of Henry
III- — it appears to us to argue a still higher antiquity. The
chapel now consists of a nave and chancel, with a vestry on the
north side — the south side and the east end, are the most modern
and the best constructed parts of the building. Thoresby de
scribed some painted glass in this chapel of which an account
will be found in the note below.* Considerable landed endow
ments belong to it. Ralph Beeston of Beeston, Esq., by indenture
dated May 7, 39th Elizabeth, 1597, granted to Thomas Cotes a
messuage, barn, stable, garden, and certain lands in Beeston, for
the term of four hundred years, at the yearly rent of 10s., which
premises, with other lands, were conveyed by Mr. Cotes to trus
tees for the benefit of the curate of Beeston for the time being.
The living, which is very valuable, is rated in the Liber Regis
at £28. The following clergymen have been curates in this vil
lage since the middle of the sixteenth century — Revds. Robert
Armitage, 1640 — Leonard Scurr, 1651  Cudworth, 1662
 Siddal, 1663— William Robinson, 1672  Pollard,
Christ. Topham, 1670— Isaac Thomas, A. B. 1784— Joseph
Whiteley, A. M., 1789— John Cooper, A. M., 1803— Edward
Tennant, A. M., 1804— Joseph Swain, B. D.,— and the Rev. Mr.
Wardle the present minister.
THE CHAPEL AT ARMLEY was built in the reign of
Charles I., but was consecrated by archbishop Sterne, in 1694.
It is connected with a perpetual curacy, and is valued in the
Liber Regis., at £26 Is. 4d. Ralph, the father of Sir Ingram
Hopton, gave the site, Sir Miles Stapleton and Mary his wife con-
* Thoreshy says, " The chapel is of great antiquity, though there is no real ground
for any pretence to parochial dues appertaining thereunto, as one of the curates, who
was of a contentious spirit, insinuated. It seems to have heen dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, hy the crowned M in stone-work over the window. There is also
the reliques of her picture painted upon glass in the great window, and another with
a glory round the head, hut miserahly defaced, as are also some coats of arms, of
which the first is sahle, an escucheon and orlc of owls argent, for Calverly, the
second argent, a satire gules, for the Neviles ; a third is vert a lion rampant argent
for Beeston, which is also carved upon their stall in the chapel; the fourth gules,
three greyhounds currant argent, for Mauleverer. In a lahel proceeding from one
of the saints, is writ  To Mary you keepc nie.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 435
firmed the grant, and also conveyed several pieces of inclosed com
mon for the maintenance of the minister. This chapel has lately
been considerably enlarged ; though it is a low and limited edifice,
it is very neat, and is kept in admirable order; and the lofty trees
which wave over it, form a conspicuous landmark from afar. A
very excellent house was erected here in 1704 for the residence of
the curates. The following clergymen have officiated here since
the consecration of the chapel.* The Revds. Thomas Bonnel. —
Neriah Simpson, 1672. — Robert Hartley, 1675. — Richard Jebson,
1680. — Samuel Lister, 1690. — Christopher Wilson,  .< — Jere
miah Jackson,  . — Thomas Strother, 1761. — George Metcalfe,
1791.— Richard Fawcett, A.M. now (1833), vicar of Leeds.—
Thomas Barber, B. D. — Charles Clapham the present minister.
THE CHAPEL AT WORTLEY was erected about the year
1780, under the influence of late John Smyth Esq., the lord of
the manor. A dispute upon the subject of the patronage, however,
consigned it into the hands of the Dissenters, by whom for some
years it was occupied. The trustees and the vicar of Leeds offered
to Mr. Smyth the patronage of the chapel for two lives, but he
required the perpetual advowson. This originated its temporary
alienation. But in 1813 the trustees and the vicar agreed to
convey the perpetual advowson to his son, the present John Smyth,
Esq., who sold his right in the chapel to three of the inhabitants
of Wortley, upon condition that the patronage should be vested
in five trustees, of whom the lord of the manor of Wortley should
always be one. Upon the death of two trustees, the trust is to
be filled by the survivors. The chapel was consecrated 1813, and
the endowment was constituted by the pew rents and surplice
fees, and by an engagement upon the part of the trustees that
they would advance two hundred pounds for the purpose of pro
curing three hundred pounds more from the parliamentary fund.
The trustees, however, advanced four hundred pounds, and
received six hundred pounds ; besides which the governors added
out of the parliamentary fund fourteen hundred pounds, to be ex-
* The following epitaph, once legible in Armley chapel yard, will amuse the
reader : Susanna Vevers died July 22, 1694.
Since she is gone why should we weep or cry V
It was God's will to give and tak and try
The parent's patience and if good he see
He can give nine if that his pleasure be.

436 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
pended in the purchase of freehold land, for the benefit of the
incumbent. The ministers who have officiated in this chapel since
its consecration have been, the Rev. George Rickards, and the
Rev. Mr. Kemplay, the present incumbent.
THE CHAPEL AT FARNLEY is one of the most elegant
and beautifully simple edifices of the kind which can be found in
this part of the country. We have already adverted to the old
chantry which stood upon its site, which was founded by Sir
William Harrington, in the 5th of Henry V., and which, in the
reign of Henry VIII., was valued at £1 1 10s. 8d. The only names
of clergymen, who, been resident ministers here which can be ascer
tained are, the Revds. Thomas Chapman,  Belcher — John
Fawcett, A.M. — Joseph Swaine, B.D., afterwards curate of Bee
ston — Nussey Holmes, B. D.— and W. Williamson the present
incumbent. THE CHAPEL AT HEADINGLEY is a small fabric,
consisting of a nave and chancel, with a turret at the west end.
It was built in the beginning of the reign of Charles I. — the
ground was given by Sir John Savile, bart. — it has undergone few
alterations since the time of its erection — the interior is plain and
neat — and the living is a perpetual curacy in the patronage of the
vicar of Leeds, valued in the Liber Regis at £11 13s. Between
1760 and 1770, when a large proportion of the common at Head
ingley was inclosed, a very good house was erected for the accom
modation of the minister. The following is a list of the clergymen
who have officiated in this chapel. The Revds. William Robinson
— Joseph Edmondson  Claphamson — John Murgatroyd,
A. M. — John Moore — Samuel Disney, LL. B. — William Lupton,
A. M. — Jonathan Colton, A. M. — John Smithson, A. M., the
present minister .*
* The following epitaph in this church is worthy of transcription : —
Here is deposited
the mortal Remains of
Benjamin Wade of New-Grange, Esq;
who gave the Benefit of Two Hundred Pounds to the
Curate of this chapel for ever. He departed this life (leaving
no Issue by Edith his Wife) Feb. the 5th, An. Do. 1671.
in the 81st Year of his Age.
Truth, noble Thoughts, and Vcrtue met in one
lye here in Shades, although his Life had none.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 437
KIRKSTALL CHURCH is a very elegant and beautiful
building, of the architecture of the thirteenth century. It con
sists of a nave and chancel, with a tower and a spire, one hundred
and seven feet high. The interior is very plain, but very neat,
three sides have galleries, and in the centre of that on the west is
a very excellent organ. The altar table is of stone, with a blank
arcade of arches — the font is simple, but beautiful — the site was
the gift of the earl of Cardigan — it is dedicated to St. Stephen —
it has accommodation for one thousand persons, half the sittings
being free— the first stone was laid July 7> 1828— it was opened
in September, 1829— Mr. Chan trell was the architect — his estimate
was £3272, and the contract was £3240. It is surrounded with
a spacious burial ground, occupying one side of the hill on which
the edifice is built, beautifully arranged and surrounded with
plantations. The present minister is the Rev. Mr. Hodgson. On
the twenty-ninth of April, in the present year, 1833, a catas
trophe took place at this church which has seldom been equalled
in this part of country. A most brilliant flash of lightning, fol
lowed by a terrible peal of thunder, proceeded at about five and
twenty minutes to two from a heavy cloud, and struck the spire
and tower of the church. An immense stone, with which the spire
was surmounted, weighing many hundred weight, was shattered
to pieces ; fifteen feet of the spire, in perpendicular height, were
thrown down, one vast stone of great dimensions was hurled into
an opposite field, at a considerable distance; the whole spire was so
utterly shattered, that it must be completely demolished. The
roof of the church was also broken through, the organ and several
pews were damaged, and the whole afforded one of the most extra
ordinary exemplifications of electric violence ever presented in
this part of the country. — There seems to be little doubt that the
lightning was attracted by the iron with which the spire was
crowned, a gentleman who was sitting in a house opposite the
Whose Bounty, Learning, Piety and Worth
being known to all, do his due Praise set forth.
Also the Body of Anthony Wade of New-Grange, Esq ;
Who exchanged this Life for a better the 14th of Dec. 1683.
in the 49th Year of his Age.
He Married Mary the only Daughter and Heir of John More
of Green-Head, in Com. Pal. Lancaster, Gent.
leaving Issue by her Benjamin Wade of New-Grange, Esq;
who (to the pious Memory of his Ancestors)
erected this Tomb, An. Dom. 1694.

438 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
church, said, that he saw a blue glimmer over the place, before
the explosion took place, and what is very singular, the bell was
left uninjured. The damage amounted to four or five hundred
pounds. A meeting of the rate-payers was held immediately after
wards upon the subject of repairs, when it was unanimously
resolved to send to London a deputation to solicit assistance from
the society and government funds. That assistance has since
been afforded, and the spire will soon be restored to its former
condition. THE CHAPEL AT BRAMLEY, was originally founded,
as it has been usually conjectured, by the monks of Kirkstall
Abbey, but successive repairs and alterations have obliterated
every trace of the former structure, and have given a completely
modern appearance to the present building, which though neat
and commodious, has nothing either externally or internally which
warrants particular observation. It is a perpetual curacy, valued
in the Liber Regis, at £30 Is., and is in the patronage of the
vicar of Leeds. No accurate list can be made of the clergymen
who have officiated in this chapel. The present incumbent is the
Rev. Thomas Furbank, A. M.
THE CHAPEL AT CHAPEL ALLERTON was originally
a fabric of unknown antiquity, and was not improbably at one time
a chantry, erected by John Mauleverer in the reign of Edward II.
The present chapel, which is a neat structure with nothing re
markable in its exterior, was built about the middle of the last
century. The chapel yard is strikingly beautiful. From a tablet
dated 1702, it appears that a subscription was entered into at that
period " for the purchasing of the chapel yard, for the use of the
minister for ever;" forty-seven pounds eleven shillings was the
amount of the contributions. The following have been the resi
dent clergymen at Chapel Allerton. The Revds. Bunnell, 1663,
James Metcalf, 1674 — Richard Idle, 1689 — Richard Bainbridge,
B. D.,— Benjamin Tidswell, 1777— Robert Feild, A. M. ob. 1800
— Edward Wilson the present incumbent. This chapel has lately
been beautified, by the insertion of painted glass into five of the
windows, with the representations of Christ, Peter and the cock,
Moses, and the Arms of Mr. Rhodes the munificent donor, and
Mr. Wilson the incumbent.

439

THE CHURCHES AND EPISCOPAL CHAPELS IN THE
PARISHES OF CALVERLEY AND GUISELEY.

THE PARISH CHURCH AT CALVERLEY is a very an
cient structure, situated on a commanding elevation, with a tower,
which appearing from a distance embowered amidst woods, is one of
the most pleasing objects in the surrounding country. It appears,
from a lancet window in the choir, not to have been older than the
reign of Henry II. The ancient family of the Calverleys were inter
red in the choir, and fifty years ago there was some painted glass
still remaining, with the arms of the Calverleys and the Tempests.
Over the vestry door there is a large rural monument to Sir
Walter Calverley, baronet, with an inscription so full of the turgid
and ridiculous bombast of panegyric, that had we room, we should
most certainly extract it for the amusement of the reader. The
following clergymen have been the officiating residents at Calverley
since the commencement of the seventeenth century. The Revds.
James Smith, A. M. — John Graunt, A. M. — Richard Waugh —
Benjamin Sandall, A.M. — Samuel Ferrand — William Rawson —
Christopher Holt  Dodgson — William Laidman — Wilson
Berwick, D.D. — Thomas Faber, A.M. — Samuel Redhead, the
present vicar.
THE CHURCH AT PUDSEY is a perpetual curacy, in the
patronage of the vicar of Calverley and is valued in the Liber Regis
at £10 15s. The old chapel, which was erected in the latter part
of the seventeenth century, was a small and inconvenient building,
but the new church, which is one of the most conspicuous objects
in the country, is a very large edifice, built under the superin
tendence of the late Mr. Taylor, of Leeds; the expence was
defrayed by government ; it consists of a nave and side aisles, with
a vestry at the east, and a lofty, and not inelegant tower at the west
end. The whole is of that incongruous order which is commonly
called Carpenters' gothic. It contains accommodations for one
thousand two hundred persons in pews, with free sittings for

440 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
nearly eight hundred more. The first stone was laid July 19,
1821, and it was finished and opened in 1823. The contract
amounted to £13,362. The Rev. Mr. Jenkins is the present
incumbent. THE NEW CHURCH AT IDLE is an imitation of the
pointed gothic architecture, with a graceful tower at the west
end. The first stone was laid April 28, 1828, and it was conse
crated Sep. 6, 1830. It will contain upwards of six hundred persons
in pews, and more than four hundred in free seats ; the architect
was Mr. Oates, and the contract was £2,841 . The living is a
perpetual curacy, under the patronage of the vicar of Calverley,
and its value in the parliamentary return is stated to be £109 5s.
The Rev. Mr. Hall is the present incumbent.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT GUISELEY is dedicated
to St. Oswald, and comprises a nave, aisles, transepts, chancel,
and a fine tower. The original building was most probably
erected by the highly respectable family of the Wards, of whom
we have already given an account, (see p. 217) and a beautiful
row of columns of this fabric, clustered, with Saxon capitals, and
sustaining circular arches, still remains on the south side of the
nave. The choir and transept have light detached clustered
columns, of about the time of Henry III. In a chantry at the head
of the north aisle, was the place of interment for the ancient
family of Rawden of Rawden. None of the epitaphs in this
church are worthy of transcription. There is an excellent par
sonage belonging to the rectory at a little distance from the
church. The benefice is very valuable. The Rev. W. Clark is
the present rector.
The only chapels in this parish are those at Horsforth and
Rawden. THE CHAPEL AT HORSFORTH was erected
under the auspices the Stanhope family in 1758, descendants of
John Stanhope, joint purchase of the manor in the time of
Elizabeth, it has nothing remarkable in its structure, it is neat
and commodious, and is conveniently situated in the centre of the
village. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, and is valued in the
parliamentary return at £73.— THE CHURCH AT RAWDEN,
which consists of a nave with a tower at the western end, is of
no great demensions, and possesses no inposing effect. It is situ-

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 441
ated in the immediate vicinity of the hall, which was the residence
of the ancient family of the Rawdens ; it has a very compact, as
well as extensive burial ground, and from the high elevation which
it occupies, a vast and beautiful prospect is presented up the
valley of the Aire. It is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parli
amentary return at £109.

3l

442

EPISCOPAL EDIFICES IN PARTS OF THE
PARISHES OF BRADFORD AND OTLEY.

The parish church at Bradford was in all probability originally
founded under the auspices of the Lacies, when their vast posses
sions extended from Pontefract to Blackburnshire; and it must,
according to Dr. Whitaker, have been " an opulent benefice, as
there was an endowed vicarage for many years, while the rectory
continued to be presentative, a circumstance which never took
place but where wealth had rendered the incumbent idle. During
this period the vicarage was in the rector's patronage." What
ever may have been the dimensions and the architecture of the
original church, not a vestige of it now remains. The present
church was built in the reign of Henry VI., but the tower was not
finished until about the 23rd of Henry VII. Leland mentions
a chapel of St. Sitha, in connexion with this church ; whether it
was a chantry within the church, or a detached foundation, can
not be ascertained, since it has long since disappeared, and the
very knowledge of its existence has been lost in the neighbourhood.
The church now comprises a nave and chancel, with aisles and
lofty tower at the west end. The southern front has lately been com
pletely rebuilt. " The east window," say sWhitaker, " is by no means
distinguished by either grace of design or excellence of execution ;"
it contains a number of lights of the time of the early Stuarts, and
it is supposed by Dr. Whitaker that the small window on the
south side of the choir and eastward from Boiling chapel, was re
moved from its orignal station to make way for the former inser
tion. Up to 1619, there was no monument in this church, but
there are now a very great number, the most remarkable at present
are one by Flaxman, for Mr. Balme,in which there is a fine personi
fication of old age, and that for the indefatigable mathematician,
Mr. Abraham Sharpe, with a Latin inscription which it would be
of no great advantage to the reader either to copy or to translate.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 443
The adowson of the parish church at Bradford was given by queen
Mary of bloody memory to the archbishop of York, but this gift ap
pears to have been soon recalled as the crown continued to present; it
has long been in private hands. The living is a vicarage valued in
the Liber Regisat £20 the rental of the rectoral glebe, consisting of
ninety-six acres, was valued in the reign of James I. at £83 3s. 4d.,
and the fee simple, was valued at sixteen years purchase so far back
as 1332. The income of the vicar of Bradford is now consider
able. We have already related how Bradford church steeple was
the principle fortress of the town in the seiges it sustained against
the royalists in the civil wars — the church has now a different and
a far more estimable celebrity, it is filled with serious and atten
tive congregations, it is connected with the laudable exhibition of
christian zeal, and it supports those institutions of benevolence
and religion, which are equally honourable to the excellent clergy
man who presides over its affairs, and to the friends with whom
he is accustomed to act. The following is a list of the vicars of
Bradford from the commencement of the seventeenth century.
RichardLyster, A.M. — John Kempe — Edward Hudson — Abraham
Brokesbank — Francis Pemberton — Benjamin Baron — Bradgate
Ferrand — Thomas Clapham — Benjamin Kennel, A. M. — James
Sykes, A.M. — John Cross, A. M. — Henry Heap, A. M. the pre
sent vicar. Mr. Cross, the predecessor of the present vicar, left
a large sum of money to be devoted to the promotion of religion,
by specified trustees.
CHRIST CHURCH IN BRADFORD is a building in the
Carpenters' gothic style, without any thing to recommend its
external appearance — the tower at the west end has neither pro
portion nor elegance — the interior however is commodious — it was
erected in 1813, from the designs of the late Mr. Taylor, — it is a
curacy in the patronage of the vicar, of the clear annual value of
£32 — the Rev. Mr. Morgan is the present esteemed minister.
THE CHAPEL AT NORTH BIERLEY is a neat and very
convenient edifice, but without any thing to require specific de
scription in this work. It is a perpetual curacy, valued at £104.
The present minister has recently signalized himself by his zeal in
securing some limitation of the hours of labour for children em
ployed in factories. The Rev. G. S. Ball is the incumbent.

444 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
OF THE SPACIOUS AND ELEGANT CHURCH AT
OTLEY no extended account need to be given. The Old Saxon
Church, which is mentioned in Doomsday Book, has long since
crumbled into ruins, and has almost completely disappeared— its
only remaiiis are the north door, which has a plain circular arch,
and a portion of the ancient Saxon Cross, with fretwork and scrolls
is inserted on the south wall. The interior of this church is well
worthy of observation, not on account of its architecture, although
this is imposing and venerable, but on account of the tombs which
it contains of the illustrious dead. The most remarkable of these
tombs is that of Thomas Lord Fairfax and Helen Aske his lady, the
grandfather and grandmother of the celebrated parliamentary
general, Sir Thomas Fairfax. The Latin inscription on the tomb
commemorates the exploits of Lord Fairfax in his foreign cam
paigns, and the noble origin and family of his lady. The curious
couplet on the lid, which refers to the virtues of the latter, will
amuse the reader :
Here Leas frvtfvlncs, here Rachels bcavty,
Here lyeth Rebecca's faith, here Sarahs dvty.
The tombs of the Vavasours of Weston, of Palmes of Leathley,
and of John Dineley, who purchased Bramhope from the Earl of
Cumberland, are among the most ancient in the church; while
those of the Fawkeses, of Farnley, to the present generation will
undubitably prove the most interesting. Some examples of those
charities which our ancestors commonly and laudably connected
with their religious services, are still exhibited at the church of
Otley — every week there is a distribution of bread — the widow's
dole of twenty shillings to twenty poor widows is given annually
on the first Sunday after the seventh of April — and at Christmas,
the sum of from fifty to sixty pounds is distributed, principally to
such of the labouring poor as support themselves without the aid
of parish rates. The living is a vicarage in the patronage of the
Lord Chancellor; it is valued in the Liber Regis at £13 Is. 8d.,
and in the parliamentary return at £128. The writer has been
unable to work out a correct list of the vicars of Otley from the
commencement of the seventeenth century. The following are all
the names which can be acquired:— William Harrison, B. A.,
temp., James I. — Lancelot Dennison, temp. Cliarles II. — Henry
Wilson, ob. 1781. — Bailey — and the Rev. Mr. Robinson is the
present vicar.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 445
BRAMHOPE AND POOLE are the only subordinates to
the parish church of Otley, within the limits of our district.
The Chapel at Bramhope was founded by Robert Dyneley,
Esq. about the year 1649, and the patronage is very singular— it
is vested in six trustees, who have power to suspend or deprive the
minister. The Chapel at Poole is a perpetual curacy in the
patronage of the vicar of Otley, and is valued in the parliamentary
return at £71 17s- Both these chapelries are remote in situation,
and in neither, do the congregations rise above the level of ordinary
country episcopal assemblies.

446

EPISCOPAL EDIFICES IN THE PARISHES OF ADDLE,
HAREWOOD, BARDSEY, WHITKIRK, BERWICK-
IN-ELMETE, SWILLINGTON, LEDSHAM, KIPPAX,
THORNER, AND COLLINGHAM.

THE PARISH CHURCH AT ADDLE is one of the most
exquisitely beautiful monuments of ancient architecture to be found
in the kingdom. The supposition of Thoresby, that it was a Roman
temple removed from Burgdurum is too evidently false to require
any argument for its contradiction.* Whitaker gives the follow
ing satisfactory statement relative to this church : " Whether
this church is Saxon, properly so called, or Norman, remains to
be determined. First, then, I must refer to a tradition mentioned
and misapplied by Thoresby, that the church of the parish
formerly stood at Burgdurum. This is fortified by the discovery
of a Saxon wheel cross among the Roman remains, which plainly
indicates the existence of a place of christian worship there in the
Saxon period. But at the time of the Doomsday survey, Burg
durum lay waste, and there is no notice of any church there, nor
in any of the manors of Earl Morton or Richard, which now con
stitute the parish of Adel. In the next place, it is difficult to
distinguish the enrichments in the architecture which took place a
century before the conquest, from those which continued in use
about fifty years after. Thirdly, before the reign of Stephen,
basso relievos and other enrichments almost wholly disappeared.
" Thoresby says, " At this Agelocum, or Adelocum, as Camden himself once read
it, is a church of the most antique form that ever I beheld; and being built of
small squared stones, like the Roman wall and multangular tower in York, I verily
thought it the remains of some Roman temple, till I found in it some Christian his
tories, particularly the descent of the holy ghost in the form of a dove at our
Saviour's baptism, wrought upon stone in basso releivo, but after so extremely rude
a manner, as sufficiently evidences their great antiquity. The inhabitants have a
tradition, that Adel church once stood upon Black-hill, the very place where these
Roman monuments were lately discovered, occasioned perhaps by the removal of
the stones from some temple, or other publick edifice that had stood there, upon
the destruction of the old Roman town."

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 447
Combining these circumstances together, I am compelled with
regret to assign to this beautiful work a period almost immediately
after the date of Doomsday." The church consists of a nave and
a choir, and the original windows, of which some still remain,
were so narrow, that the interior of the church must have been
comparatively dark and gloomy. The arch entering the choir is
enriched with surprising taste and skill— on the entablature on the
north side is a sculptured representation of the baptism of Christ
by John, with the dove descending, and a king standing by as a
spectator — the taking of the body of the Redeemer from the cross
is sculptured on the opposite side, and upon an adjoining capital
is the figure of an armed man shooting with a bow and an arrow
at a monster — the circular arch of the entrance on the south side,
which the Vandalic taste of some modern times concealed with a
porch, is one of the most beautiful ever seen — it is crowned with
some figures, evidently intended to point out the persons of the
Trinity, the eye balls of these figures are of lead; on the capitals of
the four columns supporting the arch, are the names and symbols
of the four evangelists; the word Taurus near a bull is legible, and
the words SCVS LVCAS or Sanctus Lucas, though almost
illegible, can still be traced. Upon the whole, although the roof
of this church is low and its dimensions are very limited, it is
in every point of view one of the most extraordinary, impressive,
and beautiful buildings in the empire. The effect of the whole is
heightened both by the rural seclusion of the place, and the admir
able order in which the church yard is kept, and in which are
placed some of the stone receptacles for the dead which have been
found about the building. The church is dedicated to St. John
the Baptist; after the dissolution the advowson was granted by
Henry VIII. to the dean and chapter of Christ Church, Oxford,
after one presentation it reverted to the crown, it was afterwards
purchased by the Arthington family, with whom it has remained,
and their representative, W. G. Davy, Esq., is now possessed of
the patronage. The parsonage house was rebuilt about sixty
years since, and the glebe was laid out in a very useful and
elegant manner, so that the whole forms perhaps the most desir
able country clerical residence in the district. The living is a
rectory in charge; it is valued in the king's books at £16 3s..4d.,
and it is now a very valuable benefice. The following is a
list of the rectors from the commencement of the seventeenth
century: The Revds. Robert Tonson — Robert Hetch, D. D. —

448 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Brearey, LL. D. — Robert Jackson— William Jackson —

Sandford Hardcastle, A.M. — Henry Nicholson — George Lewth-
waite, B.D., the present rector.
THE PARISH CHURCH OF HAREWOOD is of consi
derable antiquity, and is, in point of appearance and situation, one
of the most beautiful in the county — the thick grove of trees with
which it is surrounded, the ivy which mantles its west end, its
propinquity to the grounds of Harewood House, and the exquisite
neatness with which the whole place is adorned, render it one of
the most inviting and pleasing objects of the kind in the district.
Speaking generally of its interior, the only subtraction from the
general good effect is, the removal of the lattices and screens. In
the number and preservation of its interesting tombs, this church
has long been superior to every other in this part of the country.
Six of these tombs are particularly worthy of atention, viz. the
first of the celebrated Sir William Gascoigne, chief justice in the
reign of Henry IV., and of Elizabeth his wife — the second of a
Redman and his wife — the third, supposed to be the tomb of Sir
William Ryther, and of Sybil his wife — the fourth of a Redman,
being an altar tomb, with the cumbent statues of a knight and a
lady — the fifth, supposed to be the tomb of Sir John Nevile, of
Womerly, who died about 1482 — and the sixth, whose mortal
tenant cannot now be ascertained — these are all melancholy and
affecting memorials of the feudal times — they have each cumbent
statues entire — and they display a magnificence and sumptuousness
of sepulchral monument, seldom equalled, and in a country church
never exceeded. Among the modern tombs, the most remarkable
is that of Sir Thomas Denison, celebrated for his ability and
integrity as a judge, the epitaph upon this tomb is said to have
been written by his friend, Lord Mansfield. Whoever wrote it,
it does no credit to the style and judgment of its writer, and is
precisely such as might be supposed to have emanated from the
desk of an undertaker. Of the celebrated Lord Strafford, the
only memorial is the initials of his name on the altar rails. The
church itself was most probably erected soon after the Conquest,
and it is supposed to have been built by one of the Romilles. One
circumstance which occurred in the fourteenth century proves
that the benefice at that period must have been one of the most
opulent in the county. About 1353, John, Lord Lisle of Ruge-
ment, considering that his ancestors, the Lords of Harewood, had

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 449
been benefactors to the priory of Bolton, in Craven, gave the ad
vowson of this church to that house, on condition that its monks
should give to him and to his heirs a rent charge of one hundred
pounds per annum, out of certain specified lands, and that a chan
try of six priests should be founded at Harewood, and seven in
Bolton, to sing daily masses for the souls of the donor and his
relatives. At the dissolution the advowson returned to the Lords
of Harewood. The church is dedicated to All Saints; it is a vicar
age valued in the Liber Regis at £19 8s. 4d., and the following
are the only names of its vicars from the commencement of the
seventeenth century which can be retrieved : Matthew Garforth —
Richard Bainbridge, B. D. — James Tattersall, A. M., and the
Rev. Mr. Hale, the present vicar.
% THE PARISH CHURCH AT BARDSEY is one of the very
best specimens of Norman architecture at present remaining in the
north of England, both tower and nave imposing in appearance and
admirable in mansonry; and though its columns and arches have
a heavy appearance in the interior, and though some slight symp
toms of decay are visible about the beautiful entrance, it appears to
be just as qualified to resist the action of time and of the elements,
as when it came fresh from the hands of its builders. The church,
which is complete in all its parts, and consists of a nave, side
aisles, porch, tower, and choir, was most probably erected in the
reign of Henry I. The church is a vicarage dedicated to All
Saints; it is valued in the parliamentary returns at £150 per
annum, and it is in the gift of G. L. Fox, Esq. The names
of only four of its clergymen can be retrieved, since the com
mencement of the seventeenth century. The Revds. Richard
Wright — John Fentiman — James Scott, A. M. — Francis Wil
kinson, A. M.
THE PRESENT PARISH CHURCH AT WHITKIRK
was built about the reign of Henry VII., and with its high and grace
ful tower, it forms a conspicuous landmark from many miles around.
We have already stated, (see p. 268,) that it must be concluded
from the name, that a church of wood existed here, in the Saxon
times, although it is not mentioned in Doomsday Book, and that
the present church was erected to furnish accommodation to the
inhabitants of, what was then in all probability, a populous arid
respectable village. A chantry in this church, about the time
3 m

450 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
when it was rebuilt, was founded on the south side of the choir,
by William Scargill, Esq., of Thorpe Stapleton. A beautiful
and finely preserved tomb remains of his son, Sir Robert Scargill,
whose cumbent statute, with that of his wife, display hands up
lifted in the attitude of prayer, with a profusion of rings on the
fingers. The monument of Sir Arthur Ingram has an inscription
in the disgustingly turgid style of his period — the tomb of
Edward Lord Viscount Irwine displays a very fine statue reclin
ing on one elbow, the inscription is not worth copying — a very
handsome monument commemorates the late Lord and Lady
Irwine — but on the north wall of the church is a rural monument
to a man, whose name will long be celebrated, and the inscription
upon which we shall copy for the perusal of our readers :
"Sacred to the memory of John Smeaton, F.R.S., a man whom
God had endowed with the most extraordinary abilities, which he
indefatigably exerted for the benefit of mankind in works of
science and philosophical research; more especially as an engineer
and a mechanic. His principal work, the Eddystone Lighthouse,
erected on a rock in the open sea, (where one had been washed
away by the violence of a storm, and another had been consumed
by the rage of fire,) secure in its own stability and the wise pre
cautions for its safety, seems not unlikely to convey to distant
ages, as it does to every nation of the globe, the name of its con
structor. He was born at Austthorpe, June 8, 1724, and departed
this life October 28, 1792."
" Also sacred to the memory of Ann, the wife of the said John
Smeaton, F.R.S., who died Jan. 17, 1784. Their two surviving
daughters, duly imprest with sentiments of love and respect for
the kindest and tenderest of parents, pay this tribute to their
memory.'' The church is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return
at £120; it is in the patronage of Trinity College, Cambridge;
it is dedicated to St. Mary, and its present vicar is the Rev. Mr.
Musgrave, also vicar of Halifax.
THE PARISH CHURCH OF BERWICK-IN-ELMETE,
dedicated to All Saints, is conformable rather to the present popula
tion of the village than to the ancient fame of the place. It is a
small edifice, but kept in excellent order, and presenting the
neatness and cleanliness which should always be inseparable from
a village church. The advowson, ever since the extinction of the

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 451
great family of the Lacies, has remained in the duchy of Lancas
ter, and it is one of the most valuable livings which pertains to
the duchy, or exists in the West Riding of Yorkshire. The
benefice is a rectory, valued in Liber Regis at £33 12s. 6d., and
the patronage is in the King as Duke of Lancaster. The follow.
ing is a list of the rectors as far as it can be ascertained : The
Revds. George Procter — John Scot — Thomas Dalton — Richard
Beresford— Jordan Tancred — George Flaxton — Edmund Barnaby,
ob. 1729.  Nelson  Perkins— Henry Felton, D. D.,
ob. 1739 — William Harper, A. M., ob. 1749 — James Edgcumbe,
D.D.,ob. 1 750— John Sumner, D.D., ob. 1772— Robert Deane,
B.D.,  Hodgson, A. M.— William Lort Mansel, D.D.,
bishop of Bristol, and the Rev. Mr. Bathurst, the present rector.*
THE CHURCH AT ROUNDHAY, in this parish, is a very
elegant structure, in the lancet style of architecture, with a tower
and spire, built in 1826, under the auspices of the late S. Nicholson,
Esq., from the designs of the late Mr. Taylor, of Leeds. The
clergyman at present officiating, is the Rev. Mr. Dodsworth.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT SWILLINGTON is a very
neat and pleasing edifice, apparently built in the reigns of Edward
IV. or Henry VII., and both the tower and the nave appear to have
been erected at the same time. There are a great many monu-
* Of this Church Thoresby says, " All-Hallows Church here has been adorned
with painted glass, but most of it is now defaced, there remain only fragments of
inscriptions round the head, &c. as this qui conceptus ect de Spiritu Sancto, natus
ex Maria, by the Royal Arms in the window, the painting cannot be older than
King Hen. V.'s time, the flowers de lis being only three. The steeple 'tis evident
was built in the reign of Henry VI., by the inscription under the statue of Hen.
Vavasour, Esq.; who by the stone he is represented with, appears to have been a
benefactor thereto, Orate pro Henrico Vavasour an dni mcccclv0. He was after
wards Knighted, and High Sheriff of the county, 10 E. 4. The statue in the other
nich is perished, but this inscription remains, Orate pro aia dni Rici Burnham qui
dedit x marc ad edifican : hujus Campanilis. The ancient family of the Gascoigns
of Barmbow and Parlington, are interred in the closset on the north side of the
church, where their Arms remain in the window, empailed with the Vavasours,
and the Elly's of Kyddall in our Lady's queare on the south side, as appears by the
Arms, viz. Or on a plain Cross Sable, five Cresents Argent, but in neither place
are any ancient monuments, all of that kind is for the Greenfields, who flourished
in Berwick in Elmet in the reigns of Hen. VI., and Edward IV., upon a grave
stone in the quire, Orate pro aibus Johis Grenefeld, ct. Eleanore uxoris fue qui
obiit."

452 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
ments in this church of the family of the Lowthers, one of which
we shall extract as an amusing specimen of that posthumous
praise, which almost deifies its object with superhuman virtue,
so that the stupid doctrine of sinless perfection is confessed by
those who would have shuddered with horror at the most distant
imputation of Methodism.
" Sacred to the memory of the Rev. William Lowther, baronet, prebendary of
the Cathedral Church at York, and rector of this parish. In all the relative duties
of life truly exemplary; without pride; without ostentation; modest and unaspiring
in his desires; of excellent understanding and sound judgment ; graced with all the
noblest acquirements of learning, and distinguished by that urbanity of manners,
which adorns the accomplished scholar; the benign cheerfulness of his aspect shone
forth, a silent testimony of the inward serenity of his mind. He died full of the
blessings of a virtuous life, — full of the hopes of a happy immortality, June 15,
1788, aged 81 years."
A pity indeed it is, that more such characters did not exist in
our world — the only question is, was ever such a human being
known at all? There is one monument in this church to George
Lloyd, Esq. F. R. S., the conclusion of which has always appeared
to us to unite in a very uncommon degree touching pathos with
elegant taste. It is,
" In every relation, and all christian duties,
He was such as in dying to have left
To his numerous family, and to many friends,
Great comfort as well as great affliction.''
This benefice is a rectory valued in Liber Regis at £16 1 s. 8d. —
the church is dedicated to St. Mary, and it is in the patronage of
J. Lowther, Esq. The following is a list of the clergymen from
the commencement of the seventeenth century : The Revds. John
Crowther, A. M. — William Pickering, A. M. — Henry Robinson,
whose history as vicar of Leeds we have already given — Richard
Lowther, A. M. — Thomas Clarke — Sir William Lowther — Henry
Zouch, and Thomas Woodcock.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT LEDSHAM, although a very
excellent building, with a strong and not ungraceful tower at the
west end, is more remarkable for the monument it contains to one of
the best women that ever lived, than either for the beauty of its
situation, or any distinctive characters in its external appearance.
Since of Lady Elizabeth Hastings, whose name has been mentioned
more than once in the preceding pages, and whose character will

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 453
live in the grateful admiration of thousands, when many of those
who now occupy the most prominent place in the observation of
the world, are forgotten, some account will be given in the history
of charitieSj we shall content ourselves by alluding,1 in this place,
to the monument in question, and by transcribing some instruc
tions which she left behind her to the clergymen of this parish,
which it would be well if every other clergyman would bring into
practice. The monument is truly noble and magnificent — the
figure of Lady Elizabeth is placed in a reclining position, she is
represented as reading a book of devotion, and her portrait is
both handsome and spirited. Her two sisters, Lady Frances, and
Lady Anne Hastings, are placed on pedestals by her side, as
personifications of piety and prudence. The classical and elegant
Latin epitaph, written by Mr. Barnard, at the period of the death
of this excellent lady, master of the Grammar School at Leeds,
we regret that, on account of the popular character of this work, we
are unable to quote, and its spirit would evaporate in a transla
tion. Lady Elizabeth died Jan. 2, 1739, aged fifty-eight years.
The instructions of this lady to the clergyman, which are affixed
to a column adjoining the north chapel, are as follows: After an
appropriate introduction, Ladyl Elizabeth intreats the resident
clergyman, to observe the following rules: (we accommodate the
spelling to the usage of the present time.)
" 1st. That he content not himself with an orderly and regu
lar discharge of his duty, as the same is marked out and prescribed
to him by human laws, but from a true fervency of spirit and
christian zeal for the salvation of his people and his own, add to
the obligations required of him by man, the adequate and only
sufficient measures of the gospel, daily abounding in the works of
his high calling, rule his own house well, and inforce his preaching
in the minds of men by holiness of life, and the strength and
power of his own example.
2nd. That he would daily, and earnestly, in private prayer,
humble himself before the throne of God, for all especial blessings
upon himself, upon his flock, and upon all mankind.
3rd. That he would be much in conversation with his people,
and without partiality or preferring any one to the other, he
would inform himself of their spiritual condition, the respective
wants and occasions of their souls, and give them their portion of
meat in due season, and by all the wisdom and prudence he is
master of, turn the stream of their affections from the momentary

454 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
and vain enjoyments of this world, to the everlasting riches and
only solid pleasures of the next.
4th. That at every visit he receives or pays, he would provide
that some part of the discourse should be upon some vital subject
of religion, as the absolute necessity of having it planted in the
heart, and what are the hindrances whereby it is rendered unable
to strike root and to fix itself there, and what the salutary and
only effective means are, and wherein lies the heavenly wisdom,
and what are those holy methods and ways for the removing and
exterminating such hindrances, so that having the kingdom of
God established within himself, and the souls of all his sons and
daughters, (as in his ministerial relation he must ever account
his whole people to be,) they may be able to stand in judg
ment, and may, through God's great mercy, in the redemption of
all men, by his blessed Son, find their eternal lot and portion
among his saints."
With this advice, some clerical writers have made themselves
merry, and one of them has said, that "it savours of a species of lay
episcopacy, to which ' devout and honourable women' are apt to
addict themselves." There can be little doubt that Lady Eliza
beth had seen in her day, at no great distance from Ledsham,
deplorable instances of clerical laziness, delinquency, and indeco
rum — and on this account, if there were no other, she was fully
justified in recording her recommendations; and well would it be
if all clergymen, at the present day, would reduce them to
practice ! We do not see why good advice should not be as
excellent in coming from Lady Elizabeth Hastings, as from any
dignified ecclesiastic or mitred prelate in the world.
There is little doubt but that the church at Ledsham was
founded by the Lacies; it is a vicarage, valued in the Liber Regis
at £7 4s. 2d.; it is dedicated to All Saints. The following is a
list of its clergy from the commencement of the seventeenth cen
tury: The Revds. Thomas Greenwood — William Styles — Robert
Todd— William Elmhirst^Thomas Rawson, M. A.— Peter Birk-
beck — Daniel Pinner — Charles Hammond — John Benson— John
Benson, A. M. —  Pavor, A. M. The patronage of the
vicarage is in the hands of the trustees of Lady Elizabeth
Hastings. THE PARISH CHURCH AT KIPPAX has nothing which
demands observation. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 455
Liber Regis at £15 7s. Id.; the church is dedicated to St. Mary;
the King is the patron.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT THORNER is one of the
best country churches in these agricultural villages. It consist s of a
nave, aisles, and tower, of the middle gothic; it is dedicated to St.
Peter; the benefice is a vicarage in the patronage of the King,
and it was valued in the parliamentary return at £157.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT COLLINGHAM is partly
of Norman architecture and partly of the time of Henry VIII.;
the building itself is mean, but the tower is large, and embattled;
it is dedicated to St. Oswald; the benefice is a vicarage, it is
valued in the Liber Regis at £3 lis. 5^d. The patronage is in
the hands of the trustees of Lady Elizabeth Hastings.

456

THE EPISCOPAL EDIFICES IN THE PARISHES OF
METHLEY, CASTLEFORD, ROTHWELL, AND
WAKEFIELD.

THE PARISH CHURCH OF METHLEY is one of the most
interesting in this district. It is a living in charge, valued in the
Liber Regis at £25 8s. 6|d., and it is in the patronage of the
duchy of Lancaster. There was a church here in the Saxon times,
the traces of the old building have long since passed away, and
the present church, which is in the middle gothic style, consists
of a nave and chancel, with a low tower at the west end. One
relic of Saxon times yet remains in this church, and that is a
rude figure of Saint or King Oswald over the south door, repre
senting an aged man in robes, with a crown and a sceptre, and
interesting and expressive notwithstanding the progress of decay.
There is every reason to believe that this figure is as old as the
Saxon edifice, and is contemporary with the foundation of the
church and parish. This church is now principally remarkable
for its numerous monuments of exquisite workmanship, and in
good preservation. In a chantry on the south side of the choir,
founded by Sir Robert Waterton, is the monument of the founder.
This altar tomb has the cumbent figures of Sir Robert, and
Ciceley his wife, in alabaster, the knight in armour, and the lady
in the characteristic dress of her age, and coats of arms in the
sides of the tomb. The next is a tomb of alabaster, with cumbent
figures of a knight and a lady, and known by the arms to be that
of Lord Welles, who fell in the battle of Towton Field, and his
lady. The third is the magnificent monument of the founder of
the family, Sir John Savile, of Bradley and Methley, baron of the
exchequer in the reign of James I. On the north side of the
chancel is a monument by Scheemakers, in memory of Charles
Savile, Esq.; opposite to it is a sumptuous monument to the first
Earl of Mexborough, by Wilton, with a figure of the deceased in

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 457
Westmacott, with a representation of the Raising of Lazarus, in
scribed to Sarah, the Countess Dowager of Mexborough, who died
Aug. 9, 1821 ; and the last, in the series, is a tablet to Henry
Savile, second son of John, First Earl of Mexborough, who died
Nov. 3, 1828. The following is a list of the rectors of Methley
from the commencement of the seventeenth century : The Revds.
Thomas Home — Hugo Ramsden — Daniel Ambrose — Anthony
Elcock — Toby Conyers — Gilbert Atkynson, A. M. — George Good
win, A. M.— John Scott, A. M.— John Briggs, A. M.— A. H.
Cathcart, A. M.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT CASTLEFORD, supposed
for good reasons to have been built by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lan
caster, has one peculiarity in its form, seldom observable in country
churches; it has been built in the form of a cross, with a tower in
the centre. But this is not the original church at Castleford, for
a former one is mentioned in a charter of Henry de Lacy, about
the time of Henry I. There is nothing in the present fabric to
demand observation. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber
Regis at £20 13s. lid., and it is in the patronage of the King.
The following is a list of its clergy from the commencement of
the seventeenth century. The Revds. John North — Thomas
Bradley — Peter Birkbeck — William Bridges — William Bridges,
jun. — John Foss — John Sumner, D. D. — Robert Deane, B. D. —
John Rowe, A. B. — Theophilus Barnes.
THE PARISH CHURCH OF ROTHWELL was, in all pro
bability, originally built by one of the Lacies, but the present church
is of later date; it is of middle gothic, plane and unadorned; it consists
of a nave, aisles, and chancel, and a tower at the west end. The tower
is machicolated, and therefore intended for defence. A pretty
good painting of the last supper, by Pecket, was placed in the
east window, in 1770, by William Fenton, Esq. The north choir
of the church belongs to the manor of Middleton, and has long
been the burial place of its lords. Among the monuments in the
church, the principal attention is due to that of John Hopkinson,
to whose character and labours we have already alluded, and
to whom every topographer and historian of Yorkshire is under
such extensive and permanent obligations. The church is dedi
cated to the Holy Trinity; it is a vicarage, valued in the Liber
3n

458 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Regis at £19 12s. lid.; it is in the patronage of C. J. Brandling,
Esq. The following is a list of the vicars from the commence
ment of the seventeenth century: The Revds. Edmund Page —
Robert West— William Fairburne — Anthony Iveson — Richard
Idle— William Wharton, A. M  William Brown, A. B.— James
Torr  Harper— Ralph Brandling, A. M. This is a very
elegible benefice.
THE CHURCH AT OULTON, in the Parish of Rothwell, is
one of the most beautiful specimens of the pointed architecture, and
one of the most extraordinary exemplifications of private munifi
cence, to be found in the kingdom. The following inscription,
which, engraven on a plate of brass, was placed in the foundation
stone, will sufficiently explain its origin. " This edifice, by the
name of St. John's Church, was erected in compliance with the
will of the late John Blayds, Esq., of Leeds and Oulton, who died
Feb. 21st., 1827- The first stone was laid by his son, John
Blayds, Esq., of Oulton, Dec. 7, 1827. Rickmann and Hutchin
son, Architects." This most elegant edifice consists of a nave,
aisles, chancel, and tower and spire at the west end ; on the south
side of the church is a very beautiful porch; and the chancel,
which is built in a hexagonal form, with a spiral roof, is most
richly decorated. The windows of the chancel are filled with
painted glass, with the arms of Mr. Blayds, the Archbishop of
York, and the architects. On a black slab, on the south side of
the chancel, is an inscription to the memory of the founder of the
church; the pulpit and reading desk are on opposite sides of the
nave; an octoganal font is at the west end of the church; and
above it, in a neat gallery, is a good organ. The church will seat
about six hundred persons; it cost sixteen thousand pounds, and
the building is endowed with four thousand pounds, three per
cent, consols.
THE PARISH CHURCH OF WAKEFIELD is one of the
most beautiful ecclesiastical edifices in the north of England. We
have already seen that there was a church at Wakefield in the
Saxon times, but there can be little doubt that this edifice was
destroyed, and that another was erected by the Normans in its
stead. Mr. Sissons, with respect to this building, says, There
appears to have been three distinct erections of this church:
1st. The original Norman edifice, which remained till the

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 459
beginning of the reign of Edward the Third, whilst John, last
Earl Warren, was tenant of Wakefield for life.
2nd. The church consecrated by Archbishop William Melton,
1329. This church being accommodated to the then increased
population of the town, consisted of three aisles, and might have
been supposed likely to have endured for many years ; but for
some reason, now unknown, it was, with the exception of the tower
and spire, entirely demolished in about one hundred and forty
years from its erection, and the present beautiful structure rose
in its place. It has indeed been asserted, on tradition, that the
church originally stood on other ground, but for this report there
is no sort of foundation. In the year 1724, the south side of the
church was entirely rebuilt, and within the last thirty years the
north side and east end have been also rebuilt, and a commodious
vestry added at that end. These re-buildings and additions have
been made with more regard to durability than attention to the
original architecture of the pile, but notwithstanding the faults
which may occur to the eye of taste, it has a grand and imposing
appearance. The length of the church is 156 feet, and its breadth 69.
The tower, which from its style of architecture, appears to be
about the time of Edward III., and consequently belonged to the
second church, is 22 feet wide in the inside, and with its spire
more than 237 feet high. The spire is octagonal, four of its sides
stand on the walls of the tower, the other four are supported by
arches which spring from below the floor of the spire, and extend
from side to side of the tower. Its original height was above 125
feet; the walls at its base, where it rises from the tower, are 10
inches thick. In the year 1715 the vane, with about one-third
of the spire having been blown down, it was partially rebuilt, but
neither to its original altitude nor in due proportion with the old
part. These repairs were considered effectual until the year
1802, when, on inspecting the spire, it was found so much shaken
towards the summit, that the stones for several courses were
quite separated from each other, and admitted the weather on all
sides. On the suggestion of several gentlemen of experience it
was a second time repaired, and secured by iron bands, surround
ing it at intervals from its base; but in the present year (1823)
fears were again entertained of its security. The vane, which
for a long period has been stationary, and thus offered a very
great resistance to the wind, had loosened many parts of the

4(J0 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
masonry, so that Mr. Charles Mountain, an eminent architect of
Hull, employed by the churchwardens to examine it, stated the
necessity of taking down and rebuilding 15 feet thereof, in order
to render it perfectly secure. This has been done; besides which,
the spire has been carried up to the height it was when first com
pleted; a new vane is also fixed upon it of lighter construction than
the former, and which by offering a smaller surface to the action
of the wind, is less liable to do future injury. The tower has
suffered by the introduction of a large belfry window and door way
beneath, in other respects it retains all its original character.
The present church consists of a nave, side aisles, chancel,
clere story, and two porches, one on the north, and the other on
the south ; over the latter is a small room in which the governors
of the free grammar school, and the trustees of the different cha
rities in the town hold their meetings. The tower is very large,
embattled, and pinnacled, with a clock and chimes, and a peal of
ten bells, and the spire is one of the most lofty, and at the same
time one of the most graceful, in the kingdom. The interior is
very elegant, and the screen dividing the chancel from the nave, the
stalls and tabernacle work of the chancel, the pulpit, the organ,
the three galleries, and the general arrangement and disposition
of the whole, all combine to increase the general effect, and to
render this church unrivalled in this part of the country.* The
* Of the interior Mr. Sissons says, " The chancel is wainscotted to the bottom
of the windows, and on the north side there is a raised platform with seats for the
Archdeacon and his officers, when the visitations are held. This part of the church
had been much neglected by the lay-impropriators previous to the year 1813, but
at that time, in consequence of a suit commenced against them by the church
wardens, they were compelled to put the whole into complete repair. The roof,
which is flat and divided into square compartments with grotesque ornaments at the
intersections, has been also recently painted oak colour, and the ornaments gilt.
" The screen dividing the chancel from the nave is of oak, carved with flowers,
&c. in bold relief; the gates formerly attached to this screen, but which were removed
to make room for the pulpit, are carved in the same style. They are now deposited
in the small chamber over the south porch.
" There are no remains of the Rood-loft, but in the year 1756, on pulling down
an old house in Northgatc, several images of saints, &c, were discovered, some of
which the compiler of this sketch has little doubt, had been removed from the
Rood-loft of the church, probably by one of the officiating priests at the time of the
dissolution. The proximity of the house, wherein they were found, to the church,
leads him to assign it as the residence of some of the Chantry Priests, and thereby
strengthens his conjecture as to the figures concealed in it.
" The communion table is raised by two steps from the level of the pavement ;
one of these steps extends the whole breadth of the church, the other is circular

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 461
numerous epitaphs afford but few materials for extraction, the
most characterestic is that on a gentleman, long the organist of
the church. The following is a copy of it :
" In memory of Henry Clemetshaw, upwards of fifty years
organist of this church, who died May 7, 1821, aged 68 years.
Now like an organ, robbed of pipes and breath,
Its keys and stops all useless made by death,
Tho' mute and motionless in ruins laid;
Yet when re-built by more than mortal aid,
This instrument, new voiced and tuned shall raise,
To God, its builder, hymns of endless praise."
There is one observation which a stranger cannot but make in
looking over the monuments of this church, and that is the very
great number of eminent men, whose names they record and whose
memories they perpetuate. Divines, physicians, patriots, all here
lie side by side, and no church in this district has received the
mortal remains of so many who have excited respect and admira
tion while living, or sorrow and regret when dead. The church
yard is now very extensive, and with the vicar's croft, which has
been appropriated to the purposes of sepulture, it affords tolerable
accommodation to the town. The Rectory House is a very exten
sive building of brick and stone, and close to it is the Vicarage
House. We must not omit to state, that formerly this church was
so surrounded by houses, that the whole of it could not be seen at
any one point; but in 1821, by the laudable exertions of the in
habitants, the obstructions in the neighbourhood were removed, the
church yard was greatly increased in extent, and surrounded with
an iron palisading, which allows a full view of the beautiful fabric
within it. The church is dedicated to All Saints, or All hallows;
it is a vicarage, to which the King has the right of presentation;
and it is valued in the Liber Regis at £29 19s. 2d. The follow
ing is a list of the vicars of Wakefield from the commencement of
the seventeenth century. The Revds. Timothy Maude, A. M. —
and bounded by the altar rails. Over the table is a large picture by Williams, — the
subject the Ascension, but the bad taste of the artist has thrown the lights, which are
very broad, on such parts of the picture and the figures in it, as to produce the most
ludicrous effect, instead of those ideas, which the solemnity of the scene he has chosen
to depict, ought to inspire. The whole is wretchedly designed and as wretchedly
executed ; indeed it is to be hoped that the inhabitants will, at no distant period,
replace it by some other painting more worthy of the venerable pile which this
disfigures."

462 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
James Lister, A.M. — Obadiah Lee, A.M. — Thomas Scott, A.M
George Arnott, A.M. — Benjamin Wilson — Michael Bacon, D. D.
Richard Munkhouse, D.D. — Samuel Sharpe, A.M.
ST. JOHN'S CHURCH IN WAKEFIELD, situated near
the northern entrance to the town, is a very elegant building.
The body is adorned with several Doric pilasters at each side, and
is finished by a balustrade parapet with urns at regular intervals;
at the west end is a tower, consisting of several stories, terminated
by a small cupola, supported by Ionic columns ; the interior is
very neat, and the circular end is ornamented with freco paintings
of the Passion in the Garden, the Crucifixion, and the Ascension.
The ground on which it stands, was bequeathed for the purpose
by a widow lady of the name of Newstead, who also left one
thousand pounds towards the support of the minister. A tedious
lawsuit, however, for some time retarded the commencement of
the building, but when Messrs. Maude and Lee purchased the
property of the testatrix, those gentlemen, in combination with
some other public spirited individuals, obtained an act of parlia
ment for the erection of the church. The first stone was conse
quently laid in 1791, by the Rev. Henry Zouch of Sandal, one of
the trustees named in the act of parliament for building the
church. The Rev. Thomas Kilby, A.M. is the incumbent curate.
THE CHURCH AT HORBURY was built by Mr. John
Carr, a native of the place, and long an eminent architect in the
county. It is in the Grecian style, consisting of an oblong with
a kind of transept, and a lofty tower and spire at the west end.
Although some minute faults are to be found in the architecture
of this church, it may be considered a monument of the good taste
as well as of the munificence of the founder. It cost Mr. Carr
upwards of eight thousand pounds. The epitaph of the founder
is preserved in the interior. The Rev. Joseph Thompson is the
present curate.
THE CHURCH AT STANLEY CUM WRENTHORPE
was built by the parliamentary commissioners; it is in the style of
pointed architecture, it has two octagonal turrets at the west end
and it will accommodate nearly fifteen hundred persons, half of
them in pews, and half of them in free seats. The first stone was
laid Sept. 13, 1821, and it was consecrated on Sept. 6, 1824. This
church is dedicated to St. Peter.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 463
THE CHURCH AT ALVERTHORPE is a large edifice
in the pointed style of architecture, with a vestry at the eastern,
and a tower at the western, extremity. The first stone was laid
on the 15th of February, 1823, by George Ridsdale, Esq., and
the building was completed in 1826. It will accommodate nearly
one thousand six hundred persons, and between eight or nine
hundred of the sittings are free. The architects were Messrs.
Atkinson and Sharpe, and the contract amounted to £7,828. The
Rev. Peter Blackburn is the incumbent.
THORNES CHURCH is a much smaller edifice, with a
mean cupola; it was erected under the superintendence of the same
architects. The contract amounted to £2,038, the first stone was
laid Aug. 12, 1829, and it was consecrated in the following year.
It will contain nearly six hundred persons, two hundred and fifty
of them being accommodated with free seats.

464

EPISCOPAL EDIFICES IN THE PARISHES OF
DEWSBURY, ARDSLEY, BATLEY, WOODCHURCH,
AND BIRSTALL.

THE ORIGINAL CHURCH AT DEWSBURY existed
in the Saxon times, and having been probably built near the spot
where Paulinus baptized the multitude of his converts, (see p. 34,)
it was no doubt regarded with peculiar veneration by the North
umbrians. Dewsbury, indeed, gave its name to one of the largest
Saxon parishes in the kingdom, and was considered a place of
remarkable sanctity by the credulous and ignorant barbarians. Of
the interesting relics still in existence of the old Saxon church,
we have already given an ample account (see p. 34.) The pre
sent church presents no appearances of the Saxon style of archi
tecture, it comprises a nave and aisles, chancel, an octagonal vestry
on the north side, and a tower finished with pinnacles at the west
end. The columns which separate the nave from the aisles on
the north side, are of the age of Henry III., and are surrounded by
slender detached shafts, bound above and below to their principals
by a kind of twisted cable ; these columns are only seven and a half
inches in diameter. The columns on the south side, are of a
similar description, but the middle column is no longer detached,
and the collateral shafts are incorporated with it. Over the com
munion table in this church is a painting of the Resurrection.
In the years 1766 and 1767, the external walls of the church
having given way, were pulled down, but every part of the interior
which could be preserved has been permitted to stand. The
tower was rebuilt in 1765. The great bell is said to have been
given by Sir Thomas Soothill, as a compensation for the murder
of a boy whom he threw into the forge dam. The chapel of the
Soothills, at the head of the north aisle, contains the monument
of Bishop Tilson, " who," says Dr. Whitaker, " like some others
in our days, had to lament his own imprudence in quitting a good
English benefice for an Irish bishopric." The monument to the
memory of Dr. Nettleton, the amiable author of the Essay on

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 465
Virtue and Happiness, has a very elegant Latin Inscription. The
church is dedicated to All Saints, the benefice is a vicarage in the
patronage of the king, and it is valued in the Liber Regis at
£22 13s. 9d. The following is a list of the vicars of this church,
from the commencement of the seventeenth century. The Revds.
Henry Adam, A. M. — Samuel Pearson, — John Kaye, — Jeremiah
Segar, B. A. — Paul Greenwood, A. M.— Josiah Broadhead, A. M.
— Joshua Jackson, — Thomas Bowman, A. M. — Ralph Robson, —
Joseph Wheeler, A. M. — William Lamplugh, — Scudamor La-
zenby, A. M. — Matthew Powley, A. M. — Joseph Buckworth, A. M.
THE CHURCH ON DEWSBURY MOOR, erected by
the Commissioners, is dedicated to St. John, it is in the Carpen
ters' gothic style, it consists of a nave and aisles, with an embattled
and pinnacled tower at the west end, the first stone was laid on
Aug. 7, 1823, and it was completed in 1828. The capacity of
this church is limited, it will not hold more than six hundred
persons, two hundred and fort-eight of whom it accommodates
with free seats. The contract amounted to £5,502. The Rev.
John Paine is the incumbent.
THE CHURCH AT OSSET is a small mean building,
without any appearances of antiquity. It has no interments either
within or without, and certainly derives no advantages from either
its external or internal decorations. Its income is valued in the
parliamentary returns, at £115 5s., it is in the patronage of the-
vicar of Dewsbury. The Rev. O. L. Collins is the present in
cumbent. THE CHURCH AT EARLS HEATON has been erected
by the parliamentary commissioners, it is a substantial structure
of stone with a body and transepts, and a tower and spire at the
west end. It will accommodate six hundred people, two hundred
and fifty-two of them in free seats. The architect was the late
Mr. Taylor, the contract amounted to £5,230., the first stone was
laid in May, 1825, and the edifice was completed in 1827. The
Rev. George Gregg is the present curate.
THE CHURCH AT HANGING HEATON was built
from the designs of the same architect, it is in the pointed style
of architecture, with a tower at the west end. It will accommo-
3o

466 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
date nearly four hundred persons in pews, and more than two
hundred in free seats. The first stone was laid in Aug. 1823; it
was consecrated in 1825, and it cost £4,436. The Rev. Lawrence
Ayre is the present incumbent.
THE CHAPEL AT HERTSHEAD is one of the most
ancient ecclesiastical edifices in the district, it was certainly in
existence so early as the commencement of the twelfth century,
though a great part of the fabric has been renewed since its first
erection, the principal door, and the arch over the entrance of the
choir still remain, both enriched in the same style, although not
so elaborately, with the corresponding parts of the church at Addle.
The situation of this chapel is high, the view it commands is
extensive, it is a perpetual curacy dependent upon the church at
Dewsbury, it is in the patronage of the vicar of that place, and it
is valued in the parliamentary returns at £95.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT EAST ARDSLEY is a
small neat edifice, the benefice is valued in the Liber Regis at
£27; it is in the patronage of the Earl of Cardigan. Although
this church has been modernised, yet its architecture, its porch,
and the Norman arch concealed by it, testify to its great anti
quity. The font bears date 1663, and the oldest tombstone that
of 1653. The former vicarage house is near the church, and ap
pears to have been built in the time of the Protectorate.
THE CHURCH AT WEST ARDSLEY is a perpetual
curacy of the value of £31 5s., in the patronage of the Earl of
Cardigan. OF WOODCHURCH we have already given an extended
account, to which we must refer our readers, at p. 330, of our pre
sent volume.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT BATLEY is a fine and in
teresting edifice, with a beautiful embattled tower of the same
description, and formerly appropriated to the same defensive pur
poses, as we have often had occasion to describe. There was a
church at Batley, in the Saxon times, but the date of the erection
of the present edifice, is to be assigned to the reign of Henry VI.
The advowson of the ancient church was given by Robert deLacy

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 467
to the priory at Nostel. In 1253, Walter Grey, Archbishop of
York, with the consent of the prior and convent of St. Oswald's,
ordained, that the vicar of Batley should have all the profits of
the altarage of the church, and the tithes of corn of certain places
which are mentioned, with the tithe of hay of the whole parish,
and should have a competent mansion provided for him by the
prior and the convent, " in which respect, the vicar shall serve
the church profitably and honestly, and shall sustain all episcopal
and archdiaconal burdens due and accustomary." A curious tradi
tion connected with one of the tombs at this place, we have already
detailed at length (see p. 356) ; a translation of the pompous epitaph
upon the great tomb of the Lord Savile we give in the note.* The
church is dedicated to All Saints; the benefice is a vicarage, valued
in the parliamentry return at £150, and is in the alternate pre
sentation of Lords De Grey and Cardigan. The following is a list
of the vicars since the commencement of the seventeenth century.
The Revds. Joseph Haworth — Rog. Awdsley, A.M. — Josias
* " Here is deposited the body of the most honourable John Lord Savile, of
Howley, (son and heir of the magnanimous and justly celebrated hero, Robert
Savile, Knight of the Bath) who first married Catharine, daughter of the most il
lustrious Charles Baron Willoughhy, of Knaith and Parham, and Elizabeth, eldest
daughter of the most noble Edward Cary, Knight of the Bath, and Master of the
Jewel House to Queen Elizabeth ; and next married Catherine, relict of Lord
Pagett, who was sister to Henry Viscount Falkland — a faithful Councellor of Kings
James and Charles, and six years Lord Lieutenant of the Kindom of Ireland. By
these wives he became allied to the greatest families in England and was happy in a
numerous offspring. After he had, for many years, effectually preserved the peace
of the West- Riding of Yorkshire, being appointed Custos Rotulorum (Keeper of the
Holla) and High Steward of the Barony of Pontefraet, Wakefield, and Bradford,
six times Member of Parliament for the County, and once having his son Thomas,
now Viscount Savile, joined with him in this arduous and honourable situation.
His prudence, felicity, and dignity being at length fully known, the most powerful
Prince Charles the 1st created him Baron of Pontefract, and gave him the com-
conjand of the Castle there, with the title and dignity of Constable — appointed him
Master of the Rolls, and one of the Privy Counsellors. Being advanced in years
when these dignities were conferred, and almost heaped upon him, he left earthly
honours for those of heaven, the last day of Aug. 1630, in the 74th year of his age."
Upon this epitaph, Mr. Scatcherd says, " It is not quite olear who composed it,
but if his Lordship was concerned therein, it shows him to have been (what most of
such aristocrats were before the days of the Commonwealth,) a proud, conceited,
solf-sufficient egotist ; and it proves that with all his professions of seriousness, he
was utterly devoid of that humility which is the first fruit of Religion, and lies at
the very basis of piety. My hopes are, that the tomb only was erected ' according
to his directions and appointment.' "

468 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
Broadhead, A. M. — Edward Dean — Thomas Rhodes — John Ho-
lyoake — Thomas Scott, A. M — Henry Elmsall, A. M.— Thomas
Foxley, A. M. — the present resident curate, is the Rev. Henry
Cooper. THE NEW CHURCH AT MORLEY is one of the most
elegant in this district, two acres of ground were given for the site,
with a donation of two hundred pounds, by the Earl of Dartmouth.
The first stone was laid by the Rev. Henry Cooper, on June 25,
1829, and it was consecrated on the 30th of Augcst, 1830. Mr.
Chantrell of Leeds was the architect. The architecture is an
imitation of that which prevailed at the latter end of the reign of
Henry III., the proportions are admirable, and the consistency of
the whole is preserved with extraordinary propriety. The tower
is surmounted with a beautiful spire crowned with a cross and
dove. This church* will accommodate one thousand persons,
upwards of four hundred and seventy of them in free sittings —
it cost only £2,954 — the Commissioners made an additional
grant of fifty-pounds towards the inclosure of the site — the first
stone was laid June 5th 1829— the church was consecrated Sept.
10th 1830 — and the whole edifice, though one of the plainest, is
one of the most consistent and appropriate churches in the
kingdom. THE CHAPEL AT GILDERSOME was erected in the
last century, by the agency of a Mr. Turton, who lived at the
New Hall, and of a Mr. Sharp. Neither in its exterior nor in
terior, has it any thing which demands particular observation.
* Of this church Mr. Scatcherd says, " I congratulate not only the architect but
the people in the district, upon our having an Edifice which will do them credit, in
the esteem of every antiquary and man of good taste. And I feel more pride and
pleasure upon this subject, when I contrast this little, neat, and appropriate structure
with most of the modern churches. I appeal to every real antiquary, what are they
like ? Do they remind him of our ancient ecclesiastical architecture, with its fine
lantern-towers or heaven-shooting spires ? Can anything be more incongruous than
those buildings, with their Heathenish vestibules — their ' hodge-podge' of different
Eeras, styles, and ornament — (if it deserves the name) — their cupolas, pigeoncote, or
pepper-box belfrys, more resembling a patent shot manufactory, and more appro
priate to Noblemen's grounds, or public places of amusement, than any thing else.
To me it is astonishing and unaccountable, if some people have no more taste than
to project such things, that others should have no mov,e knowledge than to allow
their erection."

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 469
The benefice is a perpetual curacy valued in the parliamentary
returns at £102.
THE PARISH CHURCH AT BIRSTALL is one of the
most beautiful ecclesiastical edifices in the district. It was built
about the time of Henry VIII., and its fine embattled tower is of
the same date ; the chancel is very fine, although it is nearly
filled with pews. On the north side of the communion table was
the burial place of the Neviles of Liversege, and on the south side,
is that which anciently belonged to the Batts of Oakwell Hall.
The church has an excellent peal of eight bells, and a capital
organ. There are no inscriptions upon any of the tomb stones
which are more ancient than the present fabric, nor are there any
monuments either in the church or the yard which will prove
particularly interesting to the reader. A singular epitaph will be
found in a note.* The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St.
Peter; it is in the patronage of the Archbishop of York, and is
valued in the king's books at £23 19s. 2d. The following is a
list of the vicars of Birstal], from the commencement of the seven
teenth century. The Revds. Robert Marsh, A. M. — William
Broadhead — Joseph Ashburnell — Thomas Hepworth — Luke Cotes
-Thomas Colby, A. M.  Marsden, D. D.— Henry
Watkins, A. M.  Heald, A. M., and the Rev. Robert
Beaumont is the present resident curate.
THE CHURCH AT CLECKHEATON is a new edifice,
of the architecture of the thirteenth centuary, with a tower and
spire — the contract was £2,387 ; it will accommodate upwards of
six hundred persons, about half of them in free seats.
THE CHAPEL AT DRIGHLINGTON was built about
* This epitaph is upon Amos Street of Birstall, huntsman to Mr. Fearnley,
of Oakwell, ob. Oct. 1777 
" This is to the memory of Old Amos
Who was, when alive, for hunting, famous ;
But now his chases are all o'er,
And here he's earth'd, of years fourscore.
" Upon this stone he's often sat,
And tried to read his Epitaph ;
And thou who dost so at this moment,
Shalt, ere long, somewhere lie dormant."

470 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
1793, but was not consecrated until 1813. The Rev. Mr. Bailey
is the present incumbent.
THE CHURCH AT TONG is a perpetual curacy, in the
patronage of J. Plumb, Esq. The Rev. W. Hammerton is the
incumbent. THE CHURCH AT BIRKENSHAW is plain but neat
edifice, with a tower and spire, it was built by the Commissioners
—the contract amounted to £2,929, and it will seat rather more
than seven hundred persons.
THE NEW CHURCH AT LIVERSEGE is a beautiful
edifice, in the style of the fifteenth century, with tower, nave, side
aisles, clere story, choir, and a crypt with cells for interments.
This church was built by the Rev. Hammond Roberson, A. M.
who endowed it with five acres of land, and in whom and his heirs
for ever the patronage of the church is vested.
THE NEW CHURCH AT HECKMONDWIKE is a
small neat structure, which will accommodate nearly six hundred
persons, and for the erection of which the contract amounted
to £2,574 10s.
It appears, therefore, from this enumeration, that in the dis
trict within ten miles of Leeds, there are no less than 73 churches
and chapels belong to the establishment.

471

THE PRESENT STATE OF
THE ESTABLISHED CHURCH IN THIS DISTRICT.

It is scarcely possible in a work like this, to enter Upon those
discussions and representations which refer to the comparative
state of the different religious denominations which exist in the dis
trict now uhder review. Individuals belonging to different religious
parties, will so materially differ in their estimates, that it will
utterly be out of our power to give such statements as will be
satisfactory to them all. But however invidious and arduous the
task, we shall, in the spirit of candour, and in adherence to truth,
present to our readers a few general details, relative to the history
of the established church in this part of the country.
Por many years after the Reformation there is reason to believe,
that the church as by law established, and which at that period
included the great body of the people within its pale, was by no
means adequately supplied with clergymen to discharge the
functions of their office. When the immediate effects of the great
change had passed away; when something like settled order had
followed the confusion which is the inseparable result of all great
and violent revolutions ; when each of the then existing churches
had one or more ministers to fulfil the sacred duties of their
office, their great and laudable zeal was displayed against the
impieties and absurdites of popery, the pulpits no doubt re
sounded with illustrations of the antichristian character of that
system which the great body of the people had abjured, and some
of the clergy in this district appeared in the field of controversy
to fight the battles of reason and of truth. In the reign of James I.,
and at the beginning of that of his unfortunate son, dissatisfaction
began to pervade a preponderating proportion of the people, rela
tive to some of the ceremonies and offices which were retained in
the new ecclesiastical institution, relative to the doctrines which
were taught in the churches, and relative to the conduct and
manners of the clergy. The reading of the Book of Sports in the
churches, at the command of the sovereigns we have just men-
\

472 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
tioned, excited the indignation and alarm of the more serious pro
portion of the population ; and the manner in which the high
dignitaries, and most of the inferior clergy, came forward to advo
cate the claims of royal prerogative against the demands of popu
lar privilege, aggravated the suspicion and dislike of the people.
On this account it was, that when the civil war between Charles
I., and his parliament broke out, an immense majority of the inha
bitants of this district assumed the cause of the commonwealth, and
contributed to the ultimate triumph of the republicans. Puritan
ism, which party and prejudiced writers have always delighted to
misrepresent, and which they have always imagined to be the
ligitimate object of derision and contempt, then prevailed exten
sively both in the large towns and in the country villages — the
puritans were generally hated by the regular and lax episcopalians,
and this hatred was repaid by corresponding condemnation. It is
certain that most of the inhabitants of the district detested both
prelacy and arbitrary power, and that few of them were sorry
when both were overturned by the success of the parliamentarian
arms. When Charles II. was restored to the throne of his an
cestors, when an immense reaction took place in favour of royalty
and episcopacy, when cruel persecution drove the nonconformists
into seclusion, or committed them to prison — the established
church was triumphant in its turn — puritans were denounced as
rebels, as well as punished as sectaries— and conventicles were
held by stealth in the recesses of seclusion, and under the veil of
darkness. Few were the Dissenters in number at the Revolution
in this district ; and from the sentiments which were entertained
by no small proportion of their body, soon after the house of
Hanover ascended the throne, and from the almost total want of
zeal and energy which prevailed among them, the established
church became completely lord of the ascendant; the clergy claim
ed, and in a great measure their claim was allowed, to be the
authorized interpreters of religion, and the only accredited mini
sters of Christianity ; it was deemed essential to secular respecta
bility to belong to the episcopal incorporation ; and it is no
exaggeration to affirm, that from the commencement of the reign
of Queen Anne, to the beginning perhaps of the American war,
three fourths of the people professed to belong to the established
church. It cannot but be acknowledged, that the clergy, in these
halcyon days of their history, did not use with either prudence or
energy, the advantages with which they were favoured. They

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 473
were generally contented with the mere routine of duty, and in
their abhorrence of what they deemed fanaticism, they were in
volved in carelessness and indifference. Zeal was seldom the
inmate of the parsonage, and was scarcely ever displayed in the
church, except when nonconformity became the topic of the dis
course, or the theme of the sermon. There can be no doubt that
this was one of the causes of the rapid progress of methodism
and dissent. When the people were addressed, it might be with
little learning, and certainly with no parade of knowledge, but
with the eloquence which arises from strong mental convic
tions, and the ardour of inextinguishable zeal, they flocked in
crowds to the preachings; the chapels of the Methodists and Dis
senters increased in numbers, and were filled with auditors; and
that defection from the establishment commenced, which has con
tinued and increased to the present day. The appearance of some
evangelical clergymen in the district, ultimately contributed to
the same result — the labours of such men as Grimshaw of Ha-
worth, and Venn of Huddersfield, crowded their churches, it is
true, with immense congregations of devoted hearers while they
lived, but when they were numbered with the dead, and their
places were occupied by men who preached " another gospel,"
their friends seceded altogether from the establishment, and either
formed independent societies or united with the Methodists. Since
we shall soon have to return to this subject again, we shall not
dwell upon it at length in this place. The impulse which was
given by the labours of Whitfield and Wesley, extended to this
part of the kingdom; a mighty change was speedily effected in the
views and in the habits of a vast proportion of the people; and it is
now a question, whether one third of that part of the inhabitants
in the district, who make religion a matter of thought and of pro
fession, ever attend the churches at all.
Since the commencement of the present century, a partial
change has taken place in the character of the church of England-
in this district, and exertions have been made by its constituents
unknown at any former period of its history. Some of its clergy
have devoted themselves to their spiritual duties with a diligence
truly exemplary ; a few of them have adopted a mode of public
address, more adapted to produce a popular impression than the
tedious style of reading a short disquisition which falls powerless
from the lips ; some of them have come forward to advocate those
godlike institutions, which are at once the glory and the blessing
of their country ; and some of them have paid as much attention to
3r

474 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
the cottage as to the drawing room, and have thus secured that
reward which is beyond all price, the gratitude and affection of
the poor. Whatever odium may be cast upon what is called the
evangelical party of the clergy — and after all they constitute that
body among the ministers of the church who will save it from
impending ruin — their number in this district was some years
ago, decidedly upon the increase — we say some years ago — because
latterly they have rather diminished in numerical amount than
otherwise. It is to be regretted that these evangelical clergymen,
probably, on account of some peculiar difficulties in their situation,
which our readers will easily imagine without any enlarged de
scription of ours, have shewn themselves to possess so much of
the high church spirit, as decidedly to increase the popular pre
judice against them, and in too many instances to neutralize the
effect of their otherwise benefical labours.
The religious societies and institutions exclusively belonging
to the established church, and supported by its clergy and mem
bers in this district, are numerous, and the contributions which
are paid into their treasuries are rather extensive. In each of
the three large towns, associations have been formed for the
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge; the Society for
Promoting Christianity among the Jews has active liberal friends ;
the Church Missionary Society receives a great, though by no
means an adequate addition to its funds from this part of the
country; a certain proportion of the clergy and their hearers, may
be numbered among the zealous supporters of the Bible Society,
the Tract Society, and the Hibernian Society ; each church in the
towns has now its Sunday School, and many of these institutions are
placed under an admirable system of management ; the clergy in
one part of the district, at least, associate for the purposes of mu
tual advantage and usefulness; and an immense amount of benefit
has accrued to a large proportion of the people. That the reader
may ascertain the extent to which this activity has proceeded,
we shall present to him a statement of the institutions connected
with the church, in each of the large towns.
THE INSTITUTIONS CONNECTED WITH THE
ESTABLISHED CHURCH IN LEEDS, are the Mowing.
The Leeds District Committee for promoting Christian Know
ledge was established in 1815, two clergymen are its secretaries,
Christopher Beckett, Esq., is the treasurer, and the depository for
the sale of books is at Miss Robinson's, in Commercial Street,—

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 475
the Church Missionary Society — the Society for the Conversion
of the Jews — the president, the treasurer, and three of the secre
taries of the Auxiliary Bible Society, belong to the establish
ment — the treasurer, and one of the secretaries of the Auxilary
Hibernian Society, are churchmen — one of the secretaries of the
Auxiliary Tract Society, is a churchman — the committee of the
Association in aid of Moravian Missions, are principally church
men — and last year, 1832, a Church Visiting Society, which
unites the purposes of religion with those of benevolence, was insti
tuted, which is exclusively supported and managed by churchmen.
The following Sunday Schools also belong to the establishment.
The parish church has schools at Mabgate, Call Lane, Meadow
Lane, the Bank Nether Green, and Feather Hill — St. Paul's
church has schools at the back of Park Place, at the back of Park
Lane, at Park Cross Street, and at School Lane, Kirkgate — St.
James's church, St. John's church, and Woodhouse church, have
also their respective establishments of a similar description.
THE FOLLOWING INSTITUTIONS AT BRADFORD,
BELONG TO THE ESTABLISHED CHURCH. The
library for Promoting Christian Knowledge, is held in a room
adjoining the Church Sunday School — the Church Missionary
Society, of which the vicar is president, and two clergymen are
secretaries — the president and one of the secretaries of the Bible
Society are clergymen — and there is a Sunday School belonging to
the Old Church, on Stott Hill, certainly one of the most efficient
in the county, and another at the top of Darley Street, belong
ing to Christ Church.
THE FOLLOWING INSTITUTIONS IN THE
OTHER TOWNS BELONG TO THE ESTABLISHED
CHURCH. At Wakefield, there is a District Committee, for
Promoting Christian Knowledge, with a clergyman as treasurer
and secretary, and a depository in the Market Place — the Bible
Society receives a large proportion of its support from the church,
and there is a very extensive Sunday School, connected with the
parish church. At Dewsbury, there is a Church Missionary So
ciety, and a very large Sunday School, is supported at the parish
church. At Otley, the principal number both of the officers and
supporters of the Bible Society are churchmen, and there is a good
Sunday School connected with the parish church.

476 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
These institutions will afford to our readers some data upon
which to estimate the present state of zeal and exertion, for the
promotion of religion in the established church in this district.
Similar institutions are generally to be found connected with the
churches in those villages, where the inhabitants are manufactur
ing — but it is to be regretted that they are rarely to be discovered
in connexion with the churches which are in the agricultural and
less densely populated portion of the district. The established
church has followed the example of the Methodists and Dissenters
in its local religious institutions, though it must be acknowledged
that thev are seldom supported with corresponding liberality and
zeal. We have little hesitation in asserting that the establish
ment is more prosperous in Bradford, than in any other town or
place in this part of the country, and that its institutions and
affairs are sustained with more activity and energy, than in the
other places we have reviewed.
It is of course impossible, nor would it be necessary if it were
possible, to give a statement of the amount of income derived by
the clergy in this district from the people, or from endowments
and other similar sources. This district, as well as every other
part of the kingdom, demonstrates the monstrous disproportion of
remuneration to labour; the richest benefices within its boundaries,
being those in which there in the most limited number of inhabi
tants, and where the least quantum of work is performed. This
circumstance has created and will perpetuate a prejudice against
the establishment, which has a most injurious effect upon its
general prosperity and reputation.
It gives us pleasure to affirm, that the conduct and demeanour
of the clergy in this district, so far as morality is concerned, is
generally exemplary — in this part of the country the}' are com
pletely before the eye of the people — surrounded by dissentients of
every name, they are the objects of constant and special observa
tion — we have consequently rarely the exhibition of those public
scandals and disgraces, fox hunting, convivial, gambling parsons,
and the very circumstances in which the establishment is placed
in this district, will always constitute a sufficient guarantee
against any flagrant violations of principle and decorum. Where
any such unhappy instances have occurred, the offenders have
generaly been removed immediately from the district.
END OF \'OL. I.

n. BINGLEY, PIUMTEH, TIMES-OFl'lCE, LEEDS.

YALE UNIVERSITY

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