^m±\^i^!^'

T^mX;

12

'¦^J^^'' S.e^i/i/'^yJ r^/i

/8'^f'

THE TEAYELS THEOUGH ENGLAND
OF
DR. RICHARD POCOCKE,
SUCCESSIVELY BISHOP 01' MEATH AND OE 0SS6eT,
DURING 1750, 1751, AND LATER TEARS.

EDITED BY
-TAMES JOEL OARTWRIGHT, M.A., F.S.A.,
TEBASUBBK OF THE SOCIETY.

VOLUME II.

PRINTED FOR THE CAMDEN SOCIETY.

M.DCCC.LXXXIX.

WESTMINSTER:
PRINTED BY NICHOLS AND SONS,
2i5, PARLIAMENT STREET.

[new series XLIV.J

COUNCIL OF THE CAMDEN SOCIETY
FOR THE YEAH 1888-9.

President,
THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OE CRAWEORD, LL.D,, E R.S.
PROFESSOR MONTAGU BURROWS, M.A., E.S.A.
JAMES J. CARTWRIGHT, ESQ., M.A., F.S.A., Treasurer.
REV. J. SILVESTER DAVIES, M.A., F.S.A.
JAMES E. DOYLE, ESQ.
REV. J. WOODFALL EBSWORTH, M.A., F.S.A.
JAMES GAIRDNER, ESQ., Secretary.
SAMUEL RAWSON GARDINER, ESQ., M.A., LL.D., Director.
REV. F. A. GASQUET.
J. O. HALLIWELL PHILLIPPS, ESQ., F.R.S., F.S.A.
ALEXANDER MACMILLAN, ESQ., F.S.A.
THE RIGHT REV. THE BISHOP OF OXFORD, D.D., F.S.A.
THE EARL OF POWIS, LL.D.
HENRY REEVE, ESQ., D.C.L., C.B., F.S.A.
S. R. SCARGILL-BIRD, ESQ., F.S.A.
PERCY M. THORNTON, ESQ.

The Council of the Cajiden Society desire it to be under
stood that they are not answerable for any opinions or observa
tions that may appear in the Society's publications ; the Editors
of the several Works being alone responsible for the same.

PEEFACE.

This volume continues the narrative of Dr. Pococke's Travels
during the years 1754, 1756, and 1757. For some years after the
latter date it is probable that the new duties incumbent on his
recent elevation to the see. of Ossory somewhat interfered with his
tastes for wandering. Among the Additional Manuscripts in the
British Museum (Nos. 14,256 to 14,261) are to be found accounts
of a journey taken by Dr. Pococke round Scotland to the Orkneys,
and through parts of England and Ireland in the year 1760; and
of further travels in England made in 1764. It may be, however,
that portions of the intermediate years were spent in like excursions,
of which the manuscript accounts are lost or still remain in private
hands. The account of his English journeys in 1760 .and 1764
would fill another goodly volume of the Camden Society's publica
tions, but as there is no immediate prospect of the work being con
tinued, the two volumes now issued are made complete in them
selves by the addition of an index. Dr. Pococke's " Tours in Scot
land, 1747, 1750, and 1760," were printed in 1887 for the Scottish
History Society, under the editorship of Mr. Daniel William Kemp,
of Edinburgh.
To have annotated these Travels in an entirely satisfactory way
would have entailed great labour and research, and would have
swelled the work perhaps to double its present size. It seemed to
the Editor, therefore, best to leave the learned traveller's text to
stand for what it is worth, unincumbered by any comment or cor-
VOL. II.

VI PEEFACE
rection. Dr. Pococke's remarks on places and things, based upon
his own observation, are unimpeachable and of high interest; but
none of his statements or theories touching historical, genealogical,
or antiquarian matters should be accepted without careful scrutiny.
In accordance with the usual practice in these publications, the
names of the places visited are printed as they are spelt in the
original manuscript. The identification of many of them without
the aid of a good map will therefore be found difScult. In the
index, however, each locality will be found under its modem form
of spelling, except in a few doubtful instances.

THE TEAYELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF DR.
RICHARD POCOCKE.

Wigan, June 2i, 1754.
On the 25th of May I embarked at Dublin for Flukeborough, near
Lancaster, and arrived in the bay on the 27th, about 4 in the after
noon, and went ashore near a small village called Barnsey. We had
sail'd by the Pele of Foudrey, an old Castle on a rocky Island at
the entrance of the bay of Lancaster ; it was built by an Abbot
of Forness Abbey, in the time of Edward the third. The Abbey
near it I saw in 1750, in the way to Scotland. A litle within the ,
head of land at the Pele is a small mount call'd Mote Hill. I went
two miles to Ulverston, and about half way pass'd by Coningsein, an Ulverstone.
old seat formerly of the Doddings now of the Bradeels, from Port-
field near Waller, who acquired this estate by an internaarriage.
Ulverstone is a small neat market town, but no Corporation, nor
is there a justice of Peace in it ; they have a handsome market
house built of a reddish freestone brought from near the Abbey or
the Manner as they call it. There is a great trade here in Corn,
especially oats, chiefly for exportation, and they weave some Camblets
and Serges. On the 28th, crossing the Sands, we went four miles
to a small village called Flukeborough, having passed by Holker, a Flukeborough.
fine wooded seat of S"^ W"' Lowther, who lives there ; it came to
him by marriage with an heiress of the Prestons. I went two
miles farther to Grange, and crossed the Sands into Westmoreland,
and came to the mouth of the River Ken or Kent, on which Kendal
stands. In two miles we came to Milthrop, on the small river Milthrop.
Bela, where there are paper mills for white and brown paper. A
CAMD. SOC. B VOL. II.

2 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
mile above it, at Betham, is a waterfall of about fifteen feet. In a
mile we came to Hirsom, very pleasantly situated ; here I was
informed is a Free School, which is a foundation to a College in
Cambridge, as are several other schools in this county, the Cum
berland men going to Queen's College in Oxford. We travelled
Levens. through a very fine country on the Ken, and soon came to Levens,
the seat of the Earl of Berkshire, with a pleasant park on the river,
which is very beautiful in the views of hanging ground and wood on
each side ; a litle above the park there is a fine waterfall of about
10 feet. I passed in sight of Sisergh on the other side, an old
Castle and seat of the Stricklands, who are Roman Catholicks, of
which family, if I mistake not, was the remarkable Prelate of that
name, who was Bishop of Namure. I went near Waterbrook,
supposed to be the ancient Concangii, which I saw when I travelled
last through this country. We came to Kendal, which I have also
described. On the side of the hill to the South of the town, is a
Mount, of which they have a tradition, that it was raised to batter
Kendal. tJig Castle, which is half a mile to the north-east ; the Castle is finely
situated on a rising ground, and defended by a deep lessee. On the
west side are some arches, and to the South a tower, with a curious
pointed arch in it, which from its shape is call'd the Oven, They
are building a Chapel in the heart of the town, with shops and
vaults under it ; and it has more the appearance of a store-room than
of a place for Divine worship. They have a manufactory of a sort
of frieze ca;ird Cotton, at eight pence a yard, sold mostly for the
West Indies, for the use of their slaves, and Linsey Woolseys, made
of thread and yarn, mostly strip'd, and much used for waistcoats ;
they have also a manufacture of knit stockings from 2s. 6d. to half
a guinea a pair, and lately they weave coarse white silk stock
ings at 7s. 6^. a pair. At Black Barton they have a marble like
that of Kilkenny, but not altogether so black. On the 29th I
turned Southward, and went over the hills called Kendal Fells,
passing near Sisergh, and leaving it on the left, descended into a
fine Valley between the hills, in which the small river Winster runs;

DR. EIOHABD POCOCKE. 3
it is beautifully improved, and the rocks on the top of the hills and the
wood have a fine effect. Two miles from Kendal is a small estate
of towards two hundred pounds a year, call'd Conswick, which
belonged to the Leybournes, a Roman Catholick family, and was
forfeited in the year fifteen, not by actually joyning the Rebels,
but by some improper conduct. It was put to publick sale, and as
the country favoured the old Proprietor in the purchase, it was
understood that a person of the name of Cruel bid for him, who
made the purchase very cheap and kept it for himself, and the family
now enjoy it. I went along the valley and came to the other side
at Crosthwaite Church, from which the hills have the name of Crosthwaite.
Crosthwaite Fells,and beyond this they are called Cartmell Fells, and
we soon came to a Chapel of that name, where there are remains of
some good old painted glass. We then came to a very small town
called Cartmell, pleasantly situated on the small river. This place
is famous for its Priory, the lands of it having been given by
King Egfrid to St. Cuthbert. In 1188 William Mareschall the elder,
Earl of Pembroke, founded a Priory here of Regular Canons of St.
Austin, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; the present parish Church
belonged to it, which is like a Cathedral ; the Choir part is Saxon
architecture, and was, without doubt, the Church of the old founda
tion, but has been raised. There are remains of very fine paintings
in the East window, the Virgin Mary in the middle and God the
Father on the left, represented as in very beautifull niches adorn'd
with Gothick ornaments exquisitely fine ; there is also a figure of a
Bishop, probably St. Cuthbert's. On the South side is an ancient
monument with two couchant statues, and another in the Isle as Cartmel.
belonging to it ; the top is crowned with a very bad and probably a
very ancient has relief, which I conjectured might be the Salutation.
On the other side of the Quire on a flat stone is an inscription round
a long Cross, part of which I made out in these words —
WILELMVS DE WALTON PRIOR DE CARTMEL
*
The Stalls of the Quire were adorned with carv'd work about the

4 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
beginning of the last century, by one of the family of the Prestons
of Holker hall near ; which estate is now in the Lowther family, by
marrying an heiress, and is the seat at present of S'' William Lowther .
There is a tower in the middle of the Church about fifteen yards
square, and another built on it within, the angles of which come to
the middle of each side of the other, which is very particular. An
old gateway remains, in which is the Free School. This place is
two miles from Flukeborough, which I had passed in the way from
Ulverston to Kendal. I left that place about a mile to the west, &
going to Tempton & Wraysholm tower, I crossed a marsh to the
Holy well which they call a Spaw ; it is at the end of a point of
land called Gowbom head, which is a very fine rocky cliff, out of
which many trees grow in a most beautiful & extraordinary manner,
& particularly the yew, which are so shorn with the wind that they
turn up against the rock and grow like a hedge. This water abounds
with a marine Salt, but it is resorted to in the summer by people
who lodge at the neighbouring places, and come to it by the Strand,
which is the best way. From this place we went a mile and a-half
Grange. hy the Strand to Grange, which place we had passed in the way to
Kendal, a most delightfuU situation, commanding a view of the
Strand, of the country to the north, and of that on the Lancashire side.
The hilly part of all this country consists of a sort of rock, which
seems to be a limestone marble, but is fuU'of flaws, tho' it rises
very large, and is used for small bridges, shambles, and the like. On
the 30th we crossed the Sands, and consequently the river Ken
seven miles, having to the north a point of land, which, if I mistake
not, extends between the Ken and the Bela, mentioned before
which last river is not marked in Speed's maps. On this land
I saw a Castle or Tower, called Arneby Tower, in the map
Wharton. Arnesyde, and we came to the shoar near Wharton, to which place
I went j it is a very small town like a village ; the manner belongs
to the King ; they are customary tenants, pay a shilling an acre,
and double rent on the change of a hfe. There is nothing remark
able in the Church- except the monument of one Cole, who it is said

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 5
was thought worthy by three successive Kings to be made a justice of
the Quorum, and he dyed about the year ninety.^ There are remains
of a Rood loft tvith some old paintings on the front of it ; there is a
Canopy also over the end of one of the Isles, and they talked of a
Rood at the end of each Isle. Opposite to the Church is an old ruin
they call a priory ; it is now the vicaridge house, but I can find no
mention made of any religious house here. I turned South and
went two miles to Bolton, a very small town, where they are
almost all Freeholders. A mile before I came to this place I had come
into the high turnpike road from Kendal to Lancaster, and in
four miles more arrived at Lancaster, of which town I have formerly
given an account. They subsist by a trade by sea, and by being a
thorough fare ; the town is very neatly built of free stone, the
windows and door cases being hewn stone. They have lately built
a new Chapel near the river, not of the best architecture. I
reviewed Wery wall, and was more confirmed in my opinion that it Lancaster.
is not a Roman work, the masonry of it being exceeding bad. On
each side of the Mayor's door is a brass Halbert, placed as a mark
of his authority. The hill to the east of the town produces the fine
free stone with which they build. They are erecting a handsome
new tower to the Church. On the 31st I set out to go round that
Head of land which lies to the South west of Lancaster, and in three
miles, at Condor Green, crossed the river Condor, and in two miles
more came to Cokersand Abbey, situated on the east side of a bay, Cokersand
into which the river Coker falls, Piling being on the other side, at ¦^^''^y-
about two miles distance. This Abbey was first an Hermitage, and
then an Hospital for Sick, under a Prior subject to the Abbey of
Leicester ; it was made an Abbey of Premonstratensian Canons, in
1190, by William of Lancaster, to which there seems to have been
a design to have united another Abbey of the same order, which
Theobald, brother of Hubert Walter, Archbishop of Canterbury,
built, or designed to build, at Pyling, probably where St. John's
Chapel was, now a great burial place, there being another Chapel,
¦ It is doubted whether this is not in Bolton Church. — Note in MS.

6

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

new built, at Pyling, to the west of the bay. There are litle
remains of the Abbey, except a beautifull small Chapter house
entire, after the model of that at York, being an octagon, and the
arch supported by a pillar in the middle ; each side is ten feet long,
and the diameter about twenty -six feet ; there is an arched passage
comes out to the sea, now filled up, of which the people talk much,
but it seems to have been only a convenient way to land goods from
the sea. I saw Cokeram at a distance, where there was a Priory.
Pyling. This coast is flat, and consists of a red free stone. From Pyling
we passed near Presal, and in about three miles came to Stalmin,
having gone on two sides of Pylin Moss or bog, out of which they
frequently dig stag horns and bones, and they did find one pair of horns
that were about 5 or 6 feet apart, probably the horns of an Elk or
Mouse deer. Three miles farther we came to the river Wyer, on
the north east side of the mouth of which are warehouses for land
ing goods for the merchants of Poulton and Kirkham, it being a very
Poulton. good harbour. We crossed this river and came to Poulton, a litle
neat town built of brick, subsisting by trade and tillage. They
have a new built church, tho' but indifferently contriv'd and executed
in free stone. The Fleetwoods, now Heslots, by marriage of an
heiress of the former family, have their tombs here, and are patrons
of the Church. At Blackpool, near the sea, are accommodations
for people who come to bathe. Near this place is Singleton, from
which the family of the Singletons come, who are now dispersed.
I came from Poulton to Kirkham, where I lay. The 1st of June I
passed through Preston, dined at Charley, and came to this place.
This is an exceeding fine country the way I came, consisting of
small hills finely improved.

Kirkham.

Montgomery, June T*, 1754.
From Poulton in the way to Kirkham we passed by Mettrop Moss
and through a village called Weton. Kirkham is a small town well
situated on a litle heigth in the middle of fine meadows ; to the
north there is a Chalybeat water called Humphrey's Spaw : there is

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 7
another in the parish about two miles distant called White Car, of
which, if I mistake not. Short gives an account in his essay on
mineral waters. They have a yellow slate here which is brought
from Holland near Wigan. In the town is an old Pillar with some
uncommon characters on it which I was to see, but it was forgot.
This town and the tythes belong to Christ Church in Oxford, which
is patron of the Vicaridge ; they hold their lands by prescription at
about five pence an acre ; and something more by the acre is paid
on a death. On the first of June I went two miles to Frekleton and
near two more to the river Ribble but the tyde did not serve. I
was to have gone to Hescot bank where the coals are brought from
towards Wigan to supply all the parts about Lancaster, and are
there put on board sloops : I was to have gone to Tarleton where
there is some extraordinary Well and water, and to Croiton, where
one Mr. Manners lives, formerly a Hamburgh Merchant, who has
greatly beautifyed the Chancel of the Church. And so returning to
Frekleton I went along the marshes -near the Ribble five miles to
Preston formerly described. They are now building a fine new
bridge of free stone from Whitle hill, about half a mile below the
other, for a more convenient and shorter communication, as I take it,
to the country towards Ormskirk. There was a College of Grey
Fryers on the north side of the town, founded by Edmund Earl of
Lancaster, son to Henry 3*, and an ancient Hospital to S' Mary
Magdalene, the mastership of which was in the gift of the King,
some think it was called Priest-Town from this College. The Duke
of Hamilton was routed here with an army he brought to relieve
King Charles the first. I here saw a manufacture of carpeting
made for chairs, and designed to be improved in imitation of the
Turkey carpets; it was made at'Ostwood, near Burnley, to the
North-east. They have a great Market here every Saturday.
We went over the Old Bridge and for some way in the Wigan road,
& passed by Whittle hill which produces the free stone ; and going on
in the Chorley road we passed by a seat of Mr. Crumpton, and came Chorley.
to the town pleasantly situated on a stream which falls into the

8 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAIID OF
Yarrow that joyns the Dugles. About a mile beyond this place
they have coal, at what they call the Birth, and beyond it in many
places. It is a coal that cakes well, but for their rooms they use the
Kennel or Candle coal.
We went on and in a mile passed, by Teukesbury, the seat of
S"^ Thomas Standish, and a litle farther near a very fine situation
belonging to M"^ Willis, and beyond it is Show place, the seat of Lord
Willoughby of Parham. Over which is a Landmark on a hill that
is called Rivington Pike. Further on we saw Clayton, M"^ Hed-
lington's, and beyond that Standish, a very fine situation, where a
family of that name resides ; and near Wigan I observ'd a most
Hayes. charming place, Hayes, belonging to S'' Roger Bradshaw, who has
lately found coal there ; and within a quarter of a mile of Wigan
we passed by a Pillar to the memory of Colonel Tyldesley, who dyed
there in battle in when the King's army under the Earl of
Derby was routed and the Earl was taken prisoner and beheaded, and
about this place King Arthur routed the Saxons. I have only to
add to what I have formerly said of this place, that the situation is
pleasant and it is a very neat town with hanging ground behind the
houses down to the river, which might be made very beautiful if
the people had any tasto that way. They have here great manufac
tures in iron, copper, brass, pewter, and in making woollen rugs
and blankets. I observed in the Church a very old monument on
the South side under a stair case with two Couchant Statues, which
they say belongs to the family of the Bradshaighs, as there is
another to the memory of one of them who was a Member of Parlia
ment in the time of King Charles the Second. On the third I
set out from Wigan, and went by the Cannel coal pitts in the
road to Bolton (in which I had formerly travell'd) for about
three miles, and then came in the road to Legh and struck out
of it to see New hall, a fine seat with large offices built by M'
Atherton, who married his daughter to M' Guillaume, of Here
fordshire, who lives here, but the house is not entirely finished,
Legl,. nor kept in good order ; the front is adorned with lonick-fluted

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. v
pillars and pilasters, and there is a handsome avenue to it from
Legh. This town is supported by the same kind of cotton manu
factures as are made at Manchester. It belongs to M' Guillaum,
who is the patron. In the Church is the neglected monument and
vault of the Tildesleys, who lived at Tildesley near this town, before
that estate was sold out of the -family ; and the Colonel I mentioned,
who dyed in battle, is buryed here. We went on for some way in
the road to Warrington, and left it to go to HoUyn ferry, where there
is a boat, but when there are not great floods it is commoiily forded.
I went near half-a-mile further to Warburton, a small village with
a Market Cross in it, and remarkable for nothing but a Church built
in frames of timber and a brick tower at the east end of it, and there
are some tombstone* with Crosses on them. S' Peter Warburton
is proprietor of this place ; on the other side is a coarse free stone
slaty quarry, which serves both for building and coarse paving ; they
have very good of that kind for paving at Caridge, near Maccles
field. We went on towards Knottesford, and came into the high
road from Manchester to London, at Man mere, a long narrow
piece of water, with fine plantations at the further end, all belong
ing to M"^ Brook, of Mere, which is near the Lake ; there is also
another lake on the East side of the road. I came to Knottesford, Knottesford.
said to be originally Canutus's ford; it is situated over a small
stream called the Lilie, on which there are pleasant meadows
between the high ground on each side. It consists of the nether and
further or the upper and lower town ; the lower town is one street,
about half a measured mile long, the upper about half as long. At
the entrance of it is a new-built Session house, and at the. end of it a
very handsom Church and tower of brick, with galleries in it of the
Dorick order ; where the Schoolhouse is there was a Chapel just
below the Church. They have a manufacture here of Tamles or
single-threaded camblets, calimancoes, of hair and woosted shags,
and of thread. Mr. Egerton is Lord of the Manor. On the 4th, in
a mile, I passed by Tuff, an ancient mansion house of M' Lester's,
and in about three miles came to Cranage, whei'e there is a small
CAMD. SOC. C VOL. II.

I

10 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Chapel. We passed over the river on which Congleton stands; the
Dove and this river rise out of the same hills. In another mile we
came to Holm Chapel ; these two Chapels and a third called Goostry
Sandbache. are Chapels of ease to Sandbache. Half a mile further we left the
London road and went to the West two miles to Sandbache, a small
town supported by a great market for corn. There is a curious
old cross with several figures on it, in a very barbarous taste, and
there was another close to it on the same pedestal. There is a
Chalybeat Spaw near the town and at Lavton, about two miles off,
a purging water, from five quarts of which two ounces of salt may
be extracted. I was here informed that at Stopford and Congleton
great silk works are carried on, and a manufacture of buttons.
At the latter, Cambden mentions a raised Roman road from Middle-
wich to Northwich. I went on and passed by a large Mere near
Haslington. There is another above called Algier Mere, out of
Oiow haU. which the river rises. We then passed by Crow hall, the estate of
a Minor of the name. At Haslington is a remarkable Church or
Chapel, all built- with wooden frame, filled up with lath and plaster.
Having travelled four miles farther I came to Nantwiche, where I
had often been, and travelled by very bad road and troublesome
paved causeway five miles to .Cholmondley, where Lord Chol-
mondley has a large park, good house and offices, and a Chapel,
but all going to ruin. In a mile we crossed the great Chester road,
and in two miles more came to Malpas, which is finely situated in
a red free stone, at- the South end of those low hills, which are
between Whitchurch and Chester, and commands a very extensive
view every way from the top of the tower. It is a poor town,
consisting chiefly of farmers, shopkeepers, and inns, having no
manufactory, and is not a great thoroughfare. The Lordship
' formerly of the Breretons, whose monument is in the Church,
Malpas, belongs three parts to the Drakes and one part to Lord Cholmondley,
who present accordingly to the Rectory which is in the hands to
(sic) two Rectors, who keep each of 'em a Curate, and have their
respective houses, the Rectory being worth 800Z. a year, and

DR. EICHARD POCOCKE. 11
they take the duty each in his week. The only thing worth seeing
in Malpas is the Church, which is a fine old Gothick fabrick
of the later times. There is a Chapel which was the burial place
of the Breretons, and in it a fine Monument of white marble
with two Couchant Statues on it and Metzp relievos round it, but
it is moved, as well as that of the Cholmondleys, to a corner, in
order to have a descent into the vault in the middle, and so two
sides of them are hid. Round the partition is this inscription:
" Pray good people for the prosperous of S'^ Radoulph
Brereton, Knight Baronet, of the with his wyfe.
Dame Ilelenor and after this life to attayne eternal
felicitie, Amen, Amen." The Chapel now belongs to Egerton of
Old town. Gn the other side of the East end is the Cholmondley
Chapel, with a litle monument in it, on which is this inscription, as
far as I could read it: " Hugo Cholmondley de Cholmondley Senior,
Miles de march' Wallise vice P^'ses vice Comes mortem obiit
a° aetatis suae 83 a" Domini 1596 et hac humo sepelitur filiusque
heres ejus Hugo Cholmondley de Cholmondley Miles." And
round the Chapel is this inscription : " Orate pro bono statu Ricardi
Cholmondley et Elizabeth uxoris ejus hujus sacelli factor anno
domini millesimo quingentesimo quarto decimo." Near the other is
this monumental inscription : " To the memory of the Right Honour
able Mary Viscountess Malpas, wife of the Right Honourable the
Lord Viscount Malpas, daughter of S^^^ Robert Walpole, Knight of
the Garter ; she dyed at Aix, in France, Dec"^ the 2P', 1731, in the
26'^ year of her age."
There is an inscription on a Gallery that S'^ Richard Cholmondley
built it in 1612.
I observed this day about Sandbach a great number of grubs or
small caterpillars hanging by webs to the trees, which they spin,
and it's said, turn to flies. I put some of them in a box to see the
process of them.
On the 5* I set out from Malpas, and in three miles beyond Three
pond lane came into Flintshire in Wales, and soon came to a large

12 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
Worthing- village called Worthingbury, where they have a very handsome
^^^' new-built Church which they told me cost about £1000; it was
built out of a Legacy of £500 given by M' of Emeral,
about £100 raised by a brief and by the parish. Two miles more
brought us to Bangor on the river Dee, famous for one of the most
ancient Monasteries in the world, and those who believe the History
of King Lucius suppose it was founded in his time ; it was called
Bancornaburgh Banchor, or the good Choir, say some, or Bangor
Ishocel, i.e., Bangor of the Monks. It was certainly flourishing in
the time of S' Austin, and so it must have been if Ethelred, King
of the Northumbrian 'Angles, in his wars with the Britains in the
beginning of the 7*"^ Century, murdered 1200 of them, because they
prayed for success against the Saxon infidels. It probably after
this fell to decay, for William of Malnisbury a litle after the Con-
Bangor. quest Speaks of it as in ruins. They say there were 2400 Monks
in it, and that 100 attended divine service every hour; and Bede
sales they were divided into seven parts, each of about 300, with a
ruler over each division, and that they all lived by their own labour.
The tradition is that the Abbey was in a field call'd Stanier, but I
could not see the least sign even of foundations except a litle Mount
running paralel with the river and about 200 yards from it, which
probably was the wall of the Precinct, and that it may be of this
old Roman town, for Bonicum or Boviam is said to be here, and as
they retain the name and scite of four gates to the four Cardinal
points after the Roman manner, this makes it seem very probable.
Port Hogan was on the other side of the river, probably at the
bridge, or, it may be, at the entrance to a peninsula which the river
forms, where there is a large dike to the left or south as against the
inundation of the river, for the water has been four feet high in the
Church. This was the west gate. To the north was Dungary or
the Dung gate ; on the hill to the east of Stanier was High gate —
I suppose what Camden calls Cluit, because, asking what was
Welch for High gate, they told me Clidich deetch. The south
gate was Braunhover.

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 13
Bath, June 15*, 1754.
There is very litle remaining of the old Church of Bangor, which
seems to be without the site of the ancient town near the river, for
possibly in this course of time the river may have gained to the west,
so that this part might then be so over flowed as not to be habitable ;
the walls of the town doubtless extending to the Bridge. There are
some remains of the painting of the East window, and there is a
Gothick font which may be 3 or 400 years old ; and on the north
side of the Chancel, in the Churchyard, is a plain stone which they
say was dug up in Stanier together with a bell ; but the greatest
curiosities here are two tomb stones, which, if the inscriptions had
not been legible, and there had not been a coat of arms on one, I
should have thought to have been Roman. They consist each of a
stone of about three feet long with a head cut in Mezzo-relievo into
the upper end of the stone, so as not to rise above the surface of the
other parts of the stone ; on one is the handle of a sword on one side,
and what seems to be part of a truncheon on the other side ; under it
is the arms, a Bear rampant, which I saw over the gate of Oswestrey.
I could only make out these words of the inscription which are in
letters partly Gothick: HIC lACET WILLI .... APRANS
.... The other head is on a cushion, but I could not read any
more than the two first words as in the other. These were found
in the foundation of the old wooden tower.
This is all a very rich clay country and abounds in oak, but the
roads excessively bad, with a pitched causeway on one side about a
yard wide on which one is oblig'd to go, and is worse riding than in
the streets of a town. We cross'd over the Dee in Denbighshire
and went four long miles to Ruabon, a small town situated on an Euabon.
eminence over a rivlet which falls ihto the Dee. S' Watkins William
Wynne's park of Winstead comes very near this town, in which he
had built a handsome new house of a very good freestone of a
greenish cast. I formerly saw this house in which there is nothing
extraordinary. The late owner, who had the misfortune to dye
instantly by a fall from his horse in hunting about four years agoe,

14 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
was a godson of the last proprietor, S' John Wynne, and a great
favourite, and lived with him in his house ; his name was Williams
but no relation, and the whole estate was left to him. He lived at a
great expence to support his interest in the country, and had several
houses in which he kept servants arid a table, insomuch that he is
said to have died £80,000 in debt, but his elder son of two being
very young it is supposed the estate will be cleared when he is of
age, tho' I have been since informed that his debts amounted to no
more than his personal estate ; the burial place of this family is in
Ruabon Church. There is one grand monument, if I mistake not,
with S' John Wynne on one side and another person on the other.
In another part is a tomb with two Couchant Statues on it of a man
and woman, the head of the former rests on a helmet, and there are
many figures round the tomb, and on the cornish is this inscription:
" Orate pro anima John ap Ehe Eaton Armigeri qui obiit vicesimo
octavo die mensis Septembris an" D" M D liii. et Elizabeth CattlSy
uxoris ejus quae obiit xi die mensis Junii Anno D"" MDXXVll
animabus propitietur Deus, Amen." This John ap Ehe Eaton liv'd
at Eaton, which I passed by in the way from Bangor, and was pro
prietor of all the estate of the Wynnes. There are remains of some
painted glass on the East window, and of a fine carved Rood loft.
There is a Camp in the way from this place to Chirk Castle. There
is a freestone quarry just beyond the town, and at some distance are
quarries of lime stone, and three miles off there are lead mines at
Mihene. We went on and came again to the Dee with high beautifull
ground on each side of it covered with wood. We soon came to
Kefen-y-Wern, an old wooden house of the Middletons, and in half
Chirk Castle, a mile more to Chirk Castle, the mansion seat of that family, situated
on an eminence, and a very noble Castle it is with fine dining-room,
gallery, &c.; but the prospects are much more to be admired of a
most beautiful country. They say they can see fifteen counties.
Up the Valley near the Dee is an old Castle, called Castle Dynas
Zrane, on a beautiful single hill, ,We went through the Park, in
which there is fine hanging ground cover'd with oak. We had a

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 15
view of the town of Chirk at a litle distance, and came in five miles
to Oswestre, which I have mentioned before. At the North end of Oswestre.
the town are remains of the old Castle, with a Mount in it ; the old
gates of the town remain entire, and some part of the walls. In the
Church is a stone coffin, which seems to have been taken out of the
ruined tomb of the Yeals of Yeal, one side of which only, with seve
ral figures on it in relief, remains. In the Square is a, good new
Town house, built of freestone. The chief support of this place is
the market and thorough fare, especially as it is the place to which
they bring all their Welch Webbings, which are loaded here on
wagons and carried to Shrewsbury ; 'tis a thick sort of flannel, of
which the Soldiers' clothing is chiefly made ; it sells by the ell,
which is two yards and a half and six inches, and they can draw
this measure out to three yards ; the coarser was Is. 6d. an ell, but
now it is all from 2s. to 4s.
On the sixth I left Oswestre, and after travelling four miles came
to Tana Manah, near which village there is a hill called Tana Tana Manah.
Manah rock, which is a lime stone, and there are a great number of
lime kilns at this hill, which has a fine appearance, the upper part
being a perpendicular rock. In this country they cultivate hemp
and make linnen of it, chiefly for sheeting, which is very strong. We
went a mile further to the river Verney, and passed over it on a
fine stone bridge of seven arches ; it is called Newbridge. In this
part there is a sort of brown alabaster, which is a good lime stone.
Up this river is Mathraval Castle, in Meivod Parish, belonging to
the Powis family, where the Princes of Powis formerly resided ; it
is supposed to be old Mediolanum, and antiquities have been found
here. It seems as if it had been c^t of that family for some time,
and that Robert Vipons, an Englishman, built a Castle there. We
came soon to a long hill, and went on the south side of it ; if I mis
take not, it is called Brethin Maur, having Brething on the other
side of the Severn, and a large extensive mountain to the left ; the
former is a most beautiful hill, extending to Welch pool, to which
town we came. We gaw to the left Newkey, where Lord Powis has

16

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Welsh Pole.

Herbert
Family.

a smelting house for lead; near it is Street-Marshal, writ Yshal
Marchel, and called Strat Marcella and Aba domus de strat margel
Vail Crucis or Pola ; it lyes betwen Guilsfeld and Pole. Here was
a Cistertian Abbey, dedicated in 1170 to God and the Virgin Mary,
founded either by Owen Reveling or Madol, son of Griffith, and in
time came to be visited by the Abbot and Convent of Bildwaf, in
Shropshire. Pole is a pretty well built small town, situated on a
rivlet, call'd Claydon, about a mile from the Severne. It is a Cor
poration governed by a Bayliff and Burgesses, and is supported by a
large market, chiefly for flannels. In the Church there is a font
adorned with foliage, which seems to have been the capital of a
large Gothick pillar, and in the Chancel is this inscription, on a plain
neat monument, which I insert at length, as it contains some History
of the Pembroke family.
" S' Edward Herbert, K', second son of S"' William Herbert, Knight,
Earl of Pembroke, Lord Cardiffe, and Knight of the Most Noble
Order of the Garter, and of Anne his wife, sister and sole heir of S'^
William Parry, Knight, Lord Parre of Kirkbye, Kendal, Marmyon,
Fitzhugh, and St. Quintin, Earl of Essex, Marquis of Northampton,
and Knight of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, which S"^ Edward
Herbert married Mary, daughter and sole heir of Thomas Stanley,
of Standen, in the County of Herts, Esquire, Master of the Mint,
A" 1570, youngest son of Thomas Stanley, of Dalgarth, in the
County of Cambridge, Esq"^^, which S"^ Edward Herbert and Dame
Mary his wife had yssue four sons and eight daughters, viz., William
Herbert, Esq'^^, his eldest son and heir, who married Lady Elinor,
second daughter to Henry, Earl of Northampton ; George Herbert,
second son; John Herbert, third son ; Edward Herbert, fourth son ;
Elizabeth, first daughter, died young ; Anna, second daughter ;
Joyce, the third daughter ; Frances, the fourth daughter ; Catherine,
the fifth daughter ; Jone, the sixth daughter, dyed young ; Mary, the
seventh daughter; and Winifred, the eighth daughter ; which S''
Edward dyed the 23'' day of Marche, Anno D"'' 1594. And this

DR. EICHARD POCOCKE. 17
monument was made at the charge of the said Lady Mary Herbert,
the 23* day of October, 1597."
Powis Castle is just over the town, and about half a mile from Powis Castle)
the town is the Park, which consists of part of two long narrow hills
with a deep narrow valley between them ; the Eastern hill is the
les.s, on the brow of which the Castle is situated ; there is a gentle
ascent up the other to a heigth beyond the park which commands a
most glorious view of the course of the Severn and part of the vale
in which the Verney runs, of the hills on both sides of that vale in
which Bala stands, and, if I mistake not, Snowdon hills in Carnar
vonshire is seen from it, and there is a very extensive prospect into
Shropshire. The view even from the Castle 'tho in a gloomy day
is very fine, and I believe it may have some peculiar beauties at
such a time, for it appeared to me extremely beautifull in a hazy
evening. The Castle is built of a red freestone, something of a
granite nature, in very small grains, and not unlike the stone of
Memnon's Statue at Thebes in Egypt. The- Castle also is built
or dash'd between the stones with red mortar, so that at a distance
it appears like a brick building ; and there is a small piece of an old Powis Castle.
wall in the inclosure which seems to be of very great antiquity,
being built of large stones and levelled with smaller, such as I saw
particularly in the walls of the antient Seleuciae Pierise built by
Seleucus, King of Syria. Part of the Castle has been burnt down,
particularly a long gallery, but notwithstanding, there are two or
three grand rooms and a narrow gallery ; there are also fine hanging
gardens in the old stile, and it was famous for its waterworks. On
the whole, for a situation of this kind it is the finest place I ever
saw. From Welsh Poole I went the 7th near the Severne for about a
mile, and cross'd that river on a wooden bridge call'd Kilconeh ;
there is a nearer way to Montgomery by the new ford higher up,
but the river was too deep. We cross'd over a hill and came into
that vale in which the river Cavilet runs, which we crossed on a
bridge. This vale is like an Amphitheatre encompassed with low
CAMD. SOC. D VOL. II.

18 THE TEAVELS 'THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
hills, which are downs, except that there is a valley to the north,
which rises gently and is finely planted and cultivated ; part of
Shropshire is in this valley, and it extends to Hockshow forest, if it
is not part of it. On the river I saw Cherbury, which has distin
guished the noble family of the title of L'' Herbert, which resided at
Liner near or just under Montgomery, situated on a fine piece of
natural water. To this family the late Marquis of Powis, who
branched out from the Pembroke family (sic) ; his Estate came to
Henry Arthur Herbert, Earl of Powis, who married a daughter, the
only issue of three coheiresses, daughters of his brother.
Montgomery. Crossing this vale I came to Montgomery. The Castle is situated
in a very extraordinary manner on a high rock. On the side of the
hills there are some ruins of it, and the parsonage house is close to
it. The town is in a hollow between this hill and a lower, in which
the Church stands. There is a handsom new market house in the
town. It is a small poor place, and chiefly subsists by its markets.
In the Church is a good old monument of Richard Herbert, Esq'',
married to Margaret, Daughter of Sir Thomas, L'' chief
justice of England in the time of Henry 8th, their Couchant Statues
are on it, and under them another with a beard. The front of the
Rood loft is very curiously carved and gilt. I have been inform'd
that the people of Montgomery and Cherbury have met in wagons,
aud acted play after the antient manner.
Going towards the Severn I saw, in half a mile on the hill, a
remarkable old Fort, called Kinduramy, defended with three fossees
every way except to the South-west, where it is strong by nature ;
and there it is defended by only one deep fossee. We travelled
near the Severn, and passed by the wooden bridge which they cross
from Welsch Poole to Newtown. I saw at the hills, on the other
side of the river. Castle Verrone, of which there are some ruins,
and one part looks like a pillar, but it is only a piece of the wall.
Very near Newtown is an old Fort in the valley which they call
the Mote, and seemed to me to have the appearance of a Roman
work. All this country is most beautifull in hills, which are

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE. 19
divided by lawn and wood, and where the river turns and locks
in the land there is the most finest group of hills I ever beheld.
We came to Newtown, ten miles from Welsch pool. Bath, June I6tb, 175i.
Newtown is a very small neat town, where the Severn windes Newtown.
so as to be on three sides of the town. There is nothing remark
able in the Church, except a monument of some of S' John Price's
family, whose eldest son lives here in an old mansion house ; there
is a pleasant part to it, on the Severn. This town subsists chiefly
by its markets of corn to supply the country higher up the
Severn. I left Newtown on the 8th, and soon turned up to the left by a
stream to see a waterfall called Graicum Pistil, from which the
brook has its name ; it falls down a rock between woods about fifty
feet, the first and last ten feet being a gentle descent ; there is a
perpendicular fall of about twenty feet, and then for ten feet a steep
descent. We went on in the road to Lanidlos, the valley and lower
part of the hills being finely cultivated and adorned with wood ;
but the tops of the hills are downs, and some of them a litle heathy,
with several beautifull valleys on each side, through which the
streams come tumbling down into the Severn. In four miles we
came to a farmhouse called Mueshurer, there is a way to a ford
that leads to Caersous on the other side, which they talk of as an
old town, tho' they say there is hardly any thing to be seen, but
they ha\ e found old money there, and by their talk I' imagined it
might have been some Roman Settlement ; the water was too high
to venture over. Just above it is a |)eautifull large hill, flat at top,
which appeared to be a fine natural fortification, it is called Craigeh
Curie ; to the right of it is a beautifull valley call'd Garsonoul ;
above this the Severn runs in another direction, and on the left side
are fine small hills, which are downs, and above them the hills are
less, and cultivated to the top. Indeed this whole valley is most
beautifull, and many good old farm houses appear among the fields

20 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
and wood, and some few Gentlemen's houses. It most resembles
Switserland, but I think it is finer, and few rivers can afford finer
rides as the Severn for such a number of miles. Eight miles from
Lanidlos. Newtown we came to Lanidlos on the Severn, a small poor town,
in which most of the shops are kept by the trades men of Newtown,
and are open'd only on market days, which are kept for the sale
of meat, bread and cattle. Veal sells 2s. a quarter, kid six pence,
butter 3^d. a p'' ; mutton is dear, poor small sheep selling for six
pound a score ; and mutton, when they have it, from Is. 8d,
to four shillings a quarter, and very small. They have a manu
facture of flannel here. It is the last town on this side Plim-
limmon hill, and is but seventeen computed miles, but thirty
measured from the Western Ocean. They have a Mayor and
Burgesses put in by the Lord of the Manner. There are copper
mines three miles off in the Parish of Clanillas, at Givron ; and
a great number of lead mines, particularly on the Brindle, a
rivlet near Clinburthin pool, which belong to the Mine adventurers.
On the 9th I went up the hill to the North, in order to go to the rise
of Severn. I saw to the right, over the river Cluedagn, some lead
mines beyond M'' Glyn of Glyns, and further a hill called Gaer-
vuckeh, on the top of which is a circular rampart of stones. We
went on turning westward, and should have gone over the hill but
it was impossible by reason of the late rains, and it is partly boggy
ground, so we turn'd down and went along over the Severn, and in
about six miles from Lanidlos came to the last house thi? way, where
I hired guides and rid about half a mile, and then walk'd to the rise
of the Severn, which rises from a spring out of a very small hole, ,
which is filled by the spring ; two streams unite and fall down into
it ; but as these run only after rains, this is called the rise of the
Severn, which is in the middle of a deep bog. We met our horses
Plim Himmon. and ascended to the heigth of Plimlim.mon, the mountain out of
which the Severn, Wye, and Ridal rise ; on this heighth are two
heaps of stones, with a small heap on each, they are sort of Kerni,
and they mentioned them as marks of the bounds between Mont-

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. 21
gomeryshire and Cardiganshire, which is at the top of these hills.
We had here a very extensive view of mountains, and indeed of
nothing else, except that I thought I saw the sea, which appears
very near in a day perfectly clear. We had a view of Cader Idris,
in Merionethshire, one of the highest mountains in Wales, and a
deep valley in which the Douy runs. We descended to view the
rise of the Ridal, which is from a fine pool about half a mile round
in a hollow on the side of a hill, which is fed by a stream rising out
of the foot of the hill ; another river runs very near it, to the north
of it, which seemed to flow out of a litle hollow in the hill. They
told me it was the Refgeu. We came up and descended to the left
to the rise of the Wye, which comes out of the hollow of the hill
from springs, a stream after rain joyning it from above. We saw
Llangerig on the Wye, four miles from Reyder, and likewise we saw
almost as far as that town. I observed to the South a deep valley
under or in the road to Dufrain Castle, which I thought agree'd
best with the situation of the Tivy. We had crossed a road that
leads into Cardiganshire, and I observed some stones placed in dif
ferent parts to point out the way to the herdsmen in foggy weather.
We descended to the high road to Aberistoith, seven miles from
Lanidlos, it goes by the river Hivagirick to the Wye, which they
told me bounded between the Counties of Montgomeryshire and
Cardiganshire. We came to the Wye and went near it for about a
mile and crossed the hills five miles to Lanidlos. There are several
rivlets meet above Lanidlos, beginning at the right or north, first
the Severn, then Cliniruckhan, Dulas, BuUaganah, Avadbriuth, and
Thaleu, all running through beautiful narrow vales. On the moun
tain at the rise of the Severn I observed the bog was 4 or 5 yards
deep, then two yards of a clay slaty ground, in other parts it is from
a yard to two yards deep, then two yards of a clay slaty ground,
but in many places towards the top it is quite washed off and per
petually falling away, the vegetation on the surface it is true is some
supply, but it must be continually lessening as well as the clay slaty
soil beneath, which is mixed with some free stone of an ash colour.

22

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Rhiader.

Landrided.

The bog as a spunge receives and retains the moisture from the
clouds and rain ; if these bogs should continue to be washed away,
and by their weight they must be perpetually descending on all
declivities, this must make a great alteration in rivers, which on
rains would rise more suddenly, like torrents, when this spunge is
gone that imbibes the waters, consequently the hills must become
lower, and as the weightier particles must subside in the valleys
they must be raised higher, and in this sense the mountains shall be
made low and all vallies shall become higher.
Crossing a rivlet at the west end of the town, I saw a stone in
which I expected to find petrifyed coral, but on breaking it I found
it to be composed of beautiful cones indented but irregular, some
thing like screws and very beautifull, from a quarter to half-an-inch
in diameter ; examining again I found larger but not so beautifull.
I imagined I had found a new fossil, but I do not know but it
may be a kind of Micetytes. On the 10th I left Lanidlos and went
up the same hill I had ascended to the lead mines, but cross'd to
the left out of that road, and came down into the valley in which
the river Tulloh runs already mentioned. We travelled through a
hilly country winding round the valleys, which are mostly downs ;
single houses with plantations about them and cultivated land, and
came into Radnorshire and to the river Morteague, which runs
between high rocky hills out of which some trees grow. Over it is
a pillar about nine feet high, set up probably in mej:nory of some
transaction. We soon came to the Wye, and then went -through a
very pleasant country one mile to Rhiader, or Rhiader Gouch, a very
poor town situated on a heigth over the Wye. They are here mostly
farmers and shopkeepers, have a market, and it is a Corporation
consisting of Bayliff and Burgesses, and this town, Radnor, Pres-
teign. Knighton and Knutlas, send one member to Parliament and
the County of Radnor another. We set out from this place, went
over a high hill, and came in five miles to Landrided, where there
are some medicinal waters ; first the black well, which seems to be
.a strong sulphureous water and purges much; a quarter of a mile

DB. EICHARD POCOCKE, 23
from it is the Kings well, which I judg'd to be a Chalybeat, and
lastly a small stream dropping from the rock call'd the rockwater,
which I thought was Chalybeat and salt. They have sometimes
much company here, who diet and lodge for half a guinea a week;
and they have a horse course here. We were now in a kind of
Amphitheatre five or six miles in diameter, encompassed with plea
sant hills, the Wye being to the South. It consists very much of
commons, and we went through it five miles to Bualt, or Builth, Bnalt.
as the folks pronounce it here in Brecknockshire; it derives its
name from Bualt : — There in the wood, Alt in the old British,
signifying a wood. King Vortigern is said to have retired into
this country on his invasion of the Saxons, and that his son Pas-
centius reign'd here. 'Tis said that he went to a wilderness near
Riader goucy, and having marryed his own daughter, he built a
City on a mountain called Caer Vortigern. They have a tradition
of a town on the top of FHmlimmon, and I was showed the spot
where they say it was, and the tradition is that he and the City
were destroyed by lightning. It is also said that Lluellyn, last
Prince qf Wales, being betrayed, was basely murder'd near Rader
Goucy, Cumhire is mentioned as an A bbey of Cistertians in this
County, founded by Cadwathecan ap Madoc in 1143, which is
farther in this County. Builtb is pleasantly situated on the Wye, Builth.
the hills about it being cultivated and adorned with wood; it has
pretty good markets and shops and a Manufacture of stockins;
'tho but a small town it is supposed to be Bulleum Silurum. In
the Church is a monument of S' John Lloyd, with long spurs,
a double collar and a single ruffy and he is said to have been
the first sheriff in this County, .^t the east end of the town is
a high Mount on which there was a small Castle; on the south
and west sides of it are large ramparts something lilce Bastions,
which would contain a good number of people, and the foss^ within
them is very deep. Here is a wooden bridge over the Wye, which
river is large, considering it is but twelve computed miles from its
source. From the end of the bridge a wall is built about 177 yards

24 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
long and six feet broad, with a wooden frame on the top to keep
out the river. This town is no Corporation, and they are governed
by a justice of Peace who lives in the town ; they have salmon here
which goes four or five miles above Riader. I saw in the road
near Builth a very beautifull oval Ludus Hetmontii, about a foot
long and eight inches broad, which broke very easily in the sparry
joynte that divided the stone; it was probably among the pebbles
which are in the Slaty rock. They have a very good stone at
Abber Eddon, something of a Slate kind, which makes fine tomb
stones, and they have the same kind at Tohillis near Brecknock.
Aber Eddon lyes under a great reproach here at this day, as some
people from that place went to Kevenybeth, near Builth, and
murdered Lluellyn, the last Prince of Wales, and his head was
afterwards carried on a pike to London. On the 1 1*'', as soon as
we passed the Denerog, we began to ascend to the moors, and in
three miles came to them ; they are six miles over, and then we
travelled six miles through a very pleasant country to Brecknock,
passing by Landavelog Church, where there is a barbarous kind of
a monument cut in lines ; a man holds a sword in his right hand
over his arm, and in his left a sword held before him, and over the
figure is a Cross, under it this inscription :
ID WinmniL ±
F I O L[
which, I suppose, is only the name of the person, tho' it was
mentioned to me as an inscription in an unknown character.
Brecknock is pleasantly situated on the Usk, and the Horedy
which I had passed over runs through the suburbs, and the hang-
Brecknock, ing ground on each side of it is adorned with trees, the litle hills
cov€5red with wood, the high mountains at a distance, and the fine
meadows give the place a very agreeable aspect. The town is
great part of it well built and inhabited by several Gentlemen, and

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. 25
they have three market days, one being chiefly for Cattle. They
have a manufacture of coarse cloth like the Kendal cottons, for the
use of slaves in the West Indies; they tann great quantities of
leather, and make also white leather to send to different parts, as
well as for home consumption. It is said that old coins have been
found here, and some think it was the old Loventium. The Church
of the Benedictine Priors is on an eminence to the north. It was
founded by Bernard de Newmarch, a Norman Lord, called in to
help against Rhesus, and took the country to himself
The East part of the Cross Isle are very old, consisting of nine
windows on each side, with a lower window on each side of them,
and it is divided by three Gothic Pillars. At the East end there
are five of these windows; there is some painting in the east
window, and the old stalls of the Quire. The rest of the Church
is built in the Cathedral style. On each side of the body the Isles
are divided into Chapels, which belong to four Companies — the
Clothiers, the Tuckers, the Taylors, and the Shoemakers, with their
arms and implements cut on them ; and here they have burial places,
open their Halls and adjourn. They have, both in this Church and
S' Maries Chapel, the old triangular chests for preserving their
vestments. Here is a very good old monument of S' David
Williams, justice of the Common Pleas, and his Lady, with their
Couchant Statues. But the most remarkable thing is a monument
to the Games, built of wood, in three stages, with their respective
Canopies. On the middle stage is a wooden Couchant Statue of a
woman. Round two of the Canopies are English verses, but most
of them are defaced, being formerly in the middle of the Church.
One side is hid by being placed ag^nst the wall. I copyed what
I could of them, on account of the particularity of the Poetry,
viz. : — O Thomas Games, God grant thee Grace
To judge of good and evil ;
Thye daughters and wyfe to serve God daylye,
To fight against the Devel.
CAMD. SOC . E VOL. II '

26 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Thy sons as wise as Solomon,
Thy wyfe to live as long
As Enoch did, and so to flee
To Heaven with joyful! songe.
I wish thy self as rich to be
As ever Cressus was ;
In power to pass Ottaeman
To bring all things to pass,
And so to live here in God's fear,
And his word so embrace
That mee with thee, and he with us.
In heaven may have a place.
JFor here death spareth none,
The rich nor yet the poor ;
We must leave welthe with child and al!
When he knocks at the dore.
And thowghe the bones, as clod of clay.
Do rest within this tomb ;
And there shall be, as Scripture saithe.
Till dreadf ull day of Dome ;
Where we shall all appere
Before his glorious face,
With trembling and with dreadfuU fear.
To have our dwelling place,
In joys Celestial
With Christ in heaven to be.
Which Jesus Christ grant to us.
Amen say you with me.

In another part —

Is Samson yet alive,
For all his mighty strenght ?
Both Solomon and Absa to
Hath yield to death at length.
And Abraham he is dead,
As scripture tell hit true.
Old Galen he hath left his books'
And bidden all adieu.

There is an old painting in the church of Adam and Eve, and
within one of the Chapels of the companies is a monument a Couchant

DB. EICHAbD POCOCKE. 27
Statue of a Lady under a very fine Gothick arch, such as the Founders
of Churches and Monasteries are usually deposited in. The Church
of S' Maries in the town has nothing remarkable in it except some
very old capitals, some are fluted and some are composed of half
rounds. The Priory is the Parish Church, and the whole town is
cess'd for the repair of it, the Chapel is repaired by those within the
walls who resort to it. On the other side of the bridge is the College
and church which belonged to the black Fryars, which by Henry 8*''
was made a College and call'd Christ Church, and hejoyn'dthe
College of Aberguilly to it. The Bishop of S* Davids who has a
large house near it is Dean. There is a Praecentor, Chancellor,
Treasurer, and, as the Monasticon informs, nineteen Prebendaries. I
observed the names of them on the stalls. In this Church are buried
the Bishops Manwaring, Lucy, and Bull. To the Lady also of Lucy
there is a monument erected which mentions that she was married to
him when he was Rector of Burrowe Clere in Hampshire. There
is a magnificent monument to Bishop Lucy's son who was Chancellor
of the Church and had the title of Reverend, tho' his Couchant
Statue is on the tomb with a full bottom'd wig and a night gown.
These three Bishops of S* Davids liv'd here, and no Bishop has
resided at Brecknock since their time. This town has several good
houses and inns in it. The old Gates and part of the walls remain,
and there are some ruins of a strong old Castle in which there was a
Mount and buildings on it.

Bath, June 19'S 1754.
I left Brecknock on the 13"^ and fairned out -of the way to see Langor pool.
Langor pool which is about a mile to the north of the road ; it is two (jitfon that a^'
miles long and one broad, and is in the middle of hills, to the top city was swal-
of which there is a gentle ascent finely cultivated so that it has a in an earth-
most beautifull appearance ; we returned to the road five miles from l^^ke.
Brecknock at Bulch,, a litle beyond which place I dined in a garden
on the brow of a hill aud had a fine view of the country ; this place

28 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
is called Crickadow ; the top of the hill is of a freestone and so is
the bottom, and about two yards between there is a very hard blewish
marble. The hills on the other side of the Lesk are lime stone, and
they burn much lime on them. About seven miles to the north east
is Lanthony Abbey in Monmouthshire, of which they say there are
great remains, and at Tarankilly Hill, two miles north of Crick-
howel, is a grotto which is very narrow in many parts and some say
it goes a great way in. After rideing a mile we passed by Tritouer,
where there is an old Castle with a fifte round tower ; we came
to Crickhowel, a small poor town, very beautifully situated on an
eminence over the river. In the Church is a great monument of
S*^' John Herbert of 1691, and there is a very old monument with
a Couchant Statue in wire armour, and a fillet bound round his
head which is reposed as on two cushions, his hand is in a very
uncommon posture on his broad sword which is before him. The arms
are three lions rampant quite plain, so that I imagined it was of the
Herbert family before there was any other distinction on the arms.
There are some letters on the tomb, but I could make nothing of 'em.
There are of this family in the neighbourhood and some of the Har-
courts. This place for the richness of views of the hills and County
and country seats and water is extremely fine. The common road to
Abergavenny is on the north side of the river ; but we were directed
to the South, a longer way, by a person who I suppose was desirous
that we should see the country, and it certainly did appear extremely
fine. The wind came down the mountains, the trees bent under it
and raised their heads again, they seemed to dance like rams ; the
gentle breezes on the lower hills blew 'ore the shrubs and younger
wood, which seemed to play like lambs ; the mountains skip'd like
rams and the litle hills like young sheep, and sometimes the shades
of flying clouds added to the beauty of the Landskip. I formerly
pass'd such vales when the fields were white and ready for harvest ;
the corn grew close and full; the wind skim'd o're the fields and
caused a motion in the corn, something like that of the muscles when
we laugh and smile ; it whistled through the rustling ears, and some-

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE. 29
times resembled chearful laughter, at other some vocal musick ; the
valleys stood so thick with corn that they seemed to laugh and sing.
I observed here a particular granite . in large grains of white and
blewish, and I found afterward they made small mill stones of them.
We came to Abergaveny, most charminly situated on a point of high Abergaveny.
land over the Usk. It is esteemed the best town in Wales, in which
there are good shops, a manufacture of flanels, and, I think, stock
ings, and very considerable markets. They say here are 3,000
souls in the town. It was encompassed with a wall, part of which
remainr, and very good gates, and there are some ruins of the old
Castle on a rais'd ground, which, with about £1,000 a year, is the
estate of Lord Abergavenny. The old Church belonging to the
Priory, founded by Hamelin Balon or Baladun, a Norman, is now
the Parish Church. In the South Chapel are several fine monu
ments, with Couchant Statues on them. Some are of the Herberts
and some of the Nevils. They tell a story of a dog under the feet
of the former, and of a bull on one of the latter, from which they
say the family had the name of Nevil, which signifies a beast. On
the tomb in the middle the head dress of the woman somewhat
resembles a mitre, like that at Farta, in the Queen's County in
Ireland. There is a very particular Colossal Statue set aside in
the Isle, which I took for a Christopher. They call it the root of
Jesse. The Statue, with a long beard' and a cap on, has our
Saviour on his shoulder, and a stem as of a tree comes round as
from the back of the statue up to the htle statue on the shoulder.
It is of wood, whited over. There is a Church in the heart of the
town in ruins, and a pretty good Eccho to the west of the Town.
To the North East is Michael's Hill, to which the Roman Catholicks
go out of devotion on Michaelmas day. There is a small summit,
which looks as if it had been separated from the rest of the hill, and
they talk of its being divided from it at the time of our Lord's
Crucifixion. On the 14th we set out for Monmouth. Our road
was through a fine hilly country ; and we came to that town, situated
on a rising ground at the mouth of the Mynwy or Monno. It is a

30 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
Monmouth, good town, and chiefly supported by its markets for corn, and a
thoroughfare into Herefordshire, Gloucestershire, and Wales. -At
the Convent of Black Monks are remains of a square Saxon Chapel,
and out of the old Church they have built a very good new one,
the roof of which is suported by Dorick pillars near three feet
diameter. These Monks were brought from St. Florence, near
Saumur in Anjou, by Wikenoe de Monemue, in the time of Henry
the first, and were first placed at St. Cadois, near the Castle, pro
bably the old building hke a Church called St. Mary's. The Castle
belongs to the Duke of Beaufort, by whose family a good house
has been built in it, which is now left. A manufacture of earthen,
ware was carried on here, and particularly for pipes to lay under
ground, which did not answer. The Duke has a large house called
Troye, half a mile from this town. At the foot of the bridge over
the Monno is the Chapel of St. Bridget, of Saxon Architecture;
and there is a large new town house built of freestone, but not of
the best architecture. One Jones, a native of this town and a
Hamburgh merchant, about the beginning of the last century,
founded a free School, an Hospital, and a Lectureship. The Lecturer
has 100 guineas a year, the Master 80, and the other 50 or 60
guineas. Admiral Griffith has a fine situation close to the town.
From Monmouth I cross'd the Wye over a bridge into Glocester-
shire ; went near the banks of it in the forest of Dean, and ascended
the hills to the North East, and came by Colford, a small town.
All this way are great iron works for smelting the ore of the forest
of Dean, which is very fine. I passed by the Speech house where
the business of the forest is done, and came to the small town of
Newnham, near which we crossed over the Severn at a ferry, which
has its name from the town, and went four miles to M"^ Cambridge's,
at Whitminster, who was not at home. That place is much im-
prov'd since I saw it, being all lawn, wood, serpentine river, and
gravel walks through it for the roads, in the manner of Chantilly.
I returned by Frampton Green, which is a very pleasant place,
and came to tho parting of the Bath and Bristol road, took the

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 31
former and went to Frocester, a small village, with an exceeding
good inn. I went through fine woods of beech trees up Froster
hill, where I had a fine view of Glocestershire and Wales, and
leaving the Bath road to the west came to Wootten underidge, a
good town in a bottom between the hills. It is supported by the
cloth manufacture.

Bristol, June 22d, 1754.
From Wootten underedge I went about six miles to the Duke of
Beaufort's park and to the Duke's House, which is all wainscoated
with oak. In the hall are several hunting pieces, in which the late
and present Duke are represented, and a fine Sarcophagus on which
there are Alt reliefs, Bacchus, &c. ; it was the present of Cardinal
Mazarine to a Duke of Beaufort. In the two next rooms are
several fine pictures ; in another room is a fine Cabinet of what they
call Pietre Comesse of Florence, in which birds, beasts, and flowers,
as well of precious stones as of what they call the hard stone, inlaid
and polished. They say it was the work of twenty-five years^ and
cost as many hundred pounds ; in a gallery called the dining-room
are several family pieces, particularly John of Gaunt, from whom
they are descended, and his son. In the Duke's dressing-room is
an original drawing of Raphael's, which cost seventeen hundred
pounds ; it is that corner only of the famous piece of the Trans
figuration of Raphael as St. Pietro Montorio in Rome, in which the
boy possessed with the Devil is represented ; and in the Dutchesse's
dressing-room are several fine pictures ; one bedchamber is finished
and furnished very elegantly in the Chinese manner. The Duke
has a fine library ; the pillars between the presses, if I mistake
not, are of the Dorick order, and over the chimney is a good paint
ing of our Saviour teaching the Doctors. There are several beau
tiful Tables in the rooms, some of Alabastro fioreto, one or two of
Porphiry, and one of a beautiful grey granite. At the further end
of the Park is Worcester Lodge, on the highest ground in the Park ;

32 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
it is the design of Kent, and is a grand gateway, one arch In the
middle and one on each side, one leading to the staircase, the other
a room for servants ; over all is a grand room which commands a
most glorious prospect. It is all built of fine freestone. Here the
Duke often dines in the summer. There are in the Park near two
thousand fallow deer, and about two hundred red deer. The
present Duke's family consists of one son, the Marquis of Worcester,
about tea years old, and three daughters. We came near seventeen
measured miles from Worcester Lodge to Bath.
. Chippenham, June 24th, 1754.
I have formerly given an account of Bath ; this place every
year becomes more frequented, and is a most easy retreat for people
of all conditions, especially for those whose estates lye at a distance
from the Capital, and who can dispose of themselves during the hot
months of summer in some other places ; not to mention that there
is no place in the world so fit for the necessary and honourable
business of making alliances, which causes a great increase of build
ings here, and many persons are building houses for themselves,
insomuch that a Circus is begun on the rising ground above Queen's
Square, which is to be a Circle with three openings, and the area
is to be three hundred and yards in diameter.
When I was at Bath I made some excursions. On the 18th
I went a mile to Lyncombe, a sweet retirement, where there is
a Chalybeat water, and a very good house for lodgings, &c., on
the same terms as at Bath. A mile and half farther is South
Stone, and as much fartlier Combe Hay, on a rivlet which crosses
the road to Wells at Dunkerton, and rises three miles to the
west of it, at Comelye. Here M'' Smith has a very good house,
and has made a fine serpentine river by stopping the water. From
this place we cross'd the hill a mile and a half to Wellow, on another
stream which rises at Lytton, near the other, and then both meet at
Lower Midford, and after running about a mile fall into the Avon ; the
high ground on each side of the rivlets is very beautifull, and there

DE. EICHARD POCOCKE. 33
are many pleasant villages on them. On the I took a very
pleasant walk to Triverton, where there is a furnace for making
brass, and mills for beating it into plates. On the 20th I rid out,
went to Batheaston, visited Mrs. Ravoe, who, with Mrs. Riggs, a Batheaston.
widow, has built a very good house, highly finish' d, improved the
side of a hill to the road in beautiful lawn, walks, garden, cascades,
a piece of water and a stream running thro' the garden, and live
there in a very agreeable retirement. I turned up the hill by the
rivlet, called here Boxbrook, and saw Box on the other side of it,
and Col erne on this side ; we came on the famous Fossway, and saw
the three stones, call'd the three shire stones, where Somersetshire,
Wiltshire, and Gloucestershire meet, and then crossed the turnpike
road from Chippenham to Bristol, and, missing the way to Castle
comb, we went to Nettleton, where I stopt, and went a mile to
Castlecomb, a small town of about 100 houses, situated between the
hills, on the same rivlet on which Box stands, which rises about a
mile higher, another s.nall stream falling into it a litle above the
town ; they are chiefly farmers and clothiers, and here, as in most Castlecomb.
parts, they kill meat twice a week and carry it to Bath ; there is a
plain Market Cross, tho' at present they have no markets, and it is
in no road ; the ancient town was about half-a-mile higher on an
eminence over the river, the Castle being defended by a deep lessee,
and there is a Mount in it, a fossee extended from it round the town
to the north of it, and two fossees went across the town. The Church
has no appearance on the outside, the tower excepted, which is a very
handsom one, but within it a very light, handsom building, and the
arch between the body and the Chancel is curiously carv'd with
three figures on each side. There is a particular monument under
an arch of a person in armour, with shield in left hand, his leggs
across and his feet on a lyon, and a flowing robe. It is probably
either a Scroop, founder or rebuilder of the Church, or it may be of
the Walters of Danetavil, from whom the Wriothesleys, Earls of
Southampton, are descended, to which ancient family this place be
longs. They told me Badminton Park was but three miles from it,
CAMD, SOC. F VOL. II,

34 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
and 1 saw Nettleton Church half way between. I returned not
exactly the same way, but passed thorough North Wraxhall, and
came again into the Chippenham road. To the east of the rivlet is
Cosham, where King Ethelred had a palace, and afterwards it was
the residence of the Earls of Cornwall. We went a mile and half
to Marsfield, in Glocestershire, a litle town over Cold Aston rivlet.
These rivlets are very beautiful, having high ground on each side of
them, mostly covered with wood. I returned by Bath Easton.
On the 22d, I went from Bath to Bristol on the north side of the
river, a very pleasant road. A mile beyond Kelwastan is a mineral
water with an handsome arch turned over it; it seemed to me a
Chdlybeat, and runs very slow. Within two miles of Bristol we
came to Dungess Cross, where a hf.ndsom Church is building, and
from this all the way to Bristol are collieries. I went to the Hot
well, and thence to the Cathedral, where I saw the monument of the
Earls of Berkley, repaired by the late Earl, the first being buryed
here in the twelfth Century, since which there have been twenty-
two Earls ; they are mentioned as descended from the Kings of
Danemark. I saw the fine Exchange, the design of the late Mr.
Wood, whose architecture so greatly adorns Bath and its environs.
From Bristol I went in the road to Wells, within a mile of Payns-
ford, and turning out of it to the right came in a mile to Stanton
Drue, where I went to see a Druid piece of antiquity, mentioned
by some writers under the name of the Wedding. The name seems
to refer to the Druid worship here ; it consists of stones that were
set up an end, and seem to be a composition of lime and sand and
pebbles, there being no other stones of that kind in the neighbour
hood. The stone is a composition of pebbles, which it is said polishes
finely, and is found at Okie hole, and at Stone Easton towards
Wales. The larger circle consists of about fourteen stones, at such
unequal distances that I imagine that several stones had been taken
away, as some of them were about fifteen yards apart ; I conclude
they were all about that distance from each other. It is remarkable

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 35
that one pair are but four yards and another about six apart, the
former to the North. I did not observe the situation of the other,
but I believe it was to the East ; the latter might be the altar, and
the other an entrance ; there seem to have been about twenty-four
openings besides these, which at fifteen yards each make 360 yards,
and these taking up ten yards on a supposition that the stones were,
one with another, five feet thick, twenty-seven stones make one
hundred and thirty-five feet, or forty-three yards, the exact measure
as I paced it, that is 413 yards. I measured one of the largest of
the stones, and it was about seven feet square ; it was not an exact
circle as the stones lay, but they might have fain different ways, or
have been moved. In the second circle, which is near it, the stones
are much larger, and the distances about ten yards. I paced it
round one hundred and four yards ; at the East is a stone twelve
feet long, and six others very near it. This I imagine was the altar,
and it takes up by my paceing eleven yards ; but I suppose it only
ten ; then 94 yards remain, eighty of which for the eight paces
between the stones, and then there remain fourteen yards, which is
two yards each for the 7 stones ; one of these is fifteen feet square,
and two others are ten feet high. At a litle distance from the great
circle and from this, having the circles on two sides, are four stones
as it were making a square, which were probably about ten yards
apart, tho', as they now lie, two openings one way are twelve yards,
one nine yards, and another fifteen. At fourteen yards distance is
one stone in a line with one side. In the orchard, near the farm
house by the Church, are three stones. I observed a hill to the
north-west, which seemed to have an entrenchment on it. We saw
about a mile off the glass houses, if 1 mistake not, at Stanton wich,
and, leaving them to the left, went two miles to Pensford, a small
market town in a bottom on the rivlet which runs to Canesham ;
here, near the Church, are some houses for smelting copper, for
which purpose the water is kept up by locks ; leaving Stanton
Bury hills to the right, I could see no sign of the entrenchments on
them, and came into the road from Bristol to Bath. On the 26th I

36

THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF

Bath.

Mr. Allen.

went to see Mr. Allen's house, before which there is a very grand
collonade, and on each side a segment of about a quarter of a circle,
which is an open portico to the garden, and a gallery under it with
very convenient offices, all of hewn Bath stone inside and out.
Going up stairs from these is a grand Jiall and handsome apart
ments, and on the middle story is a gallery, which is a secret
library, the doors, on which the Philosophers, &c., are painted,
opening to the books of the sciences in which they excell'd. Most
of the rooms are wainscoated with oak and the pannels hung, and
one room is wainscoated with what they call gum wood, which is
a close and has something of the look of the pale kind of cedar.
Behind the house is a fine rising lawn, where the deer feed, but the
great beauty of the -place is the lawn and wood below, and pros
pect of Bath, and the villages round about down that valley, with
rising ground on each side, through which a small stream runs into
the Avon. To the north of the house is a Gothick building and a
small house, which is for the gardiner.

Bradford.

Shaftsbury, July 1*', 1754.
On the 28th I left Bath and went by Bath Easton, Bathford,
Warley, Corckwell, and Wingley, eight miles to Bradford, coming
into Wiltshire at Bathford. I found the country very fine on each
side of the river, especially near Warley, opposite to which is
Claverton, from which the neighbouring down has its name.
Bradford is situated in a very extraordinary manner on the Avon,
the hills forming a sort of amphitheatre, and the houses rising up
the side of them almost every way ; it is in the high road from
Bristol and Bath to Salisbury, and twelve miles from the Devizes.
The river Were, which rises near Westbury, and on which Trow
bridge stands, falls- into the Avon a litle above the town, and the
Frome two miles below it. There was a Monastery here, built by
Aldhelm, and destroyed in the Danish wars. A battle was fought
near this place between Kenilwachius, King of the West Saxons,
and Cuthred his relation. And a Synod was held here, in which

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 37
St. Dunstan was made Bishop of Worcester. They have a great
manufacture of the finest cloths, and particularly the best kersies
in England, and the water is very good for dyeing ; I was assured
that the greatest part of the cloth is made entirely of Spanish wool,
brought some from Bristol but chiefly from London; but this I
flnd is false, being only mix'd. There are several good old houses
in the town, built of free stone, as well as some new ones ; and the
Duke of Kingston has a large house here. In the Church of
Bradford is an old stone put up in the wall, and an ancient monu
ment on each side of the Church in niches, as those of founders of
Churches commonly are. The man has a long shield, and holds a
sword on his body; the woman on the north side has a dog at her
feet. There is a monument of the Methuens here, mentioned of
Scotch extraction. This Church belongs to the Chapter of Bristol.
I observed, in the bridge here, seven true arches, and judged they
might be old, setting in a foot from the outside, and there are two
Gothick arches. On the 29th I went three miles to Trowbridge,
on the Were, a small well built clothing town, in which there is
nothing remarkable but a good old covered Market Cross and the
site of the old Castle with a fossee round it ; it lyes on the river,
and the town is built on one part of it ; it was said there were six
towers to it. Horsley places Vertucio about Leckam, others guess
it was at Warminster or Westbury; possibly it might be on the
site of this old Castle. Going four miles further I passed by Hey-
wood, now the seat of the family of the Phips, who was Governor
of Bombay, and is buryed in the Church of Westbury; it was the
seat and estate of S' James Ley, first Lord Chief Justice of the
King's Bench in Ireland, afterwards in England ; preceptor to King
Jataes's children, and by King Charles the first made, first. Lord
high Treasurer and then President of the Council, and lastly, Earl Westbury.
of Marlborough, dying in 1678, if I mistake not, without an heir.
This is a poor stragling ill-built town, though a Borough governed
by a Mayor and Corporation; there are two old buildings near the
Church, one of the Parson or Rector belonging to the Bennets of

38 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OP
Weston, the other of the Vicar. It is a Peculiar belonging to the
Church of Salisbury. To the north of the town on the side of the
hill, near an old fortification call'd Bratten Castle, is a Horse cut of
so large a size that it is seen some miles distance. It is made by
cutting in pretty deep a few yards from the top of the hill, and
being Chalk it shows to great advantage;, they commonly go once
a year to it from Westbury, about the 29th of May, and clean it
from grass which would otherwise grow over it ; but as the hill is
very steep it is not very easy to go to it, much less to go into it,
the Chalk not being firm to the feet. This is, I suppose, of the
same nature as those of the vales in Berkshire, of White horse, and
of Red horse in Warwickshire ; it is thought to be made by the
Danes, who were encamped in what they call the Castle, near
which gives occasion to the vulgar to say that it was the Danish
arms, for the Danes, after they had been defeated by the English
near the strong fortification encompassed with a double ditch,
retired to it, and held out fourteen days. I went four miles to
Warminster, which is a thoroughfare from Glastonbury and other
places in the west to London, which, together with the market and
a great trade in malt, is the chief support of the town, which is near
a mile long ; the Church is half a mile from the Market-place ; so
that they have a Chapel in the heart of the town. There is a
remarkable hill between the town and Salisbury plain, which is very
near ; it is called in old deeds Rip heap, and now they call it Cop
heap. There are two Camps on hills to the east of Warminster,
Battlebury, a double trench probably of the Danes, and Scratchbury,
a square single trenched fortification. The Willibourne rises near
Warminster, and the small river Deverell joyns it about this place,
which it is said goes under ground and comes out again at a place
which I imagined I saw in the road to Longleat, and it is, if I mis
take not, called White Shore hill. This place is very near to
Sahsbury plain, the only place, I believe, in Great Brittain where
there are bustards, except Norfolk and Suffolk ; they are of the
turkey family, but of a larger size, of a brownish colour, lay an

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. 39
egg which is blew with brown spots, not quite so large, I think, as
a turkey egg; they make their nests in furz bushes, lay six eggs
and hatch about four; they live much on snails and insects, keep at
certain times in large flocks, and sometimes come down to the corn
fields, but they are very shy, run fast and fly slow, so that they are
easily taken; they have often been kept in enclosures; I could
never hear that they bred, but they commonly dye soon ; they feed
'em with snails, boyl'd liver, and the like. I went up the heath
towards Longleat, and left Clay hill or Clee hill, as it is commonly
called, to the right, which being a high ground, tho' not a large hill,
is seen at a great distance ; it seems there is a custom for the young
people to go to it on Palm Sunday, From Westbury to Warminster
there is a great variety of soil, bad free stone, sand, and sort of stone
marie of a free stone colour. The heaths are of a gravelly soil, and
at Marston there is a free stone full of shells. I was very agreeably
surprized when I came on the brow of the hill over the vale in which
the river Frome rises, not only to see a very fine rich country well
planted, but also on the grand appearance of Longleat, the house
of Lord Weymouth, which this way shows two fronts. There is a
steep descent from the park, and the situation low, and not the best;
but there is a large piece of water with a vessel on it, and a very
fine serpentine river might be made. The house is built round
a court ; it is of free stone brought from near Bradford; there are Longleat.
twelve windows one way and fifteen the other ; it is of the Dorick,
lonick, and Corinthian orders, finished above with battlements of
carved work ; within the court there is no regularity or architecture.
In the house is this inscription on a family picture: " S' John Thynne,
builder of Longleat 1566." It was, twelve years in building from
that time, tho' the tradition is, that it was in the time of Henry VII,
It was built to the old Priory, which was a Cell to the Monastery of
Hinlon in Somersetshire ; one side of it has been burnt down twice,
and is only rebuilt in a rough manner, with a dead wall to the court
for offices for servants. There is a large handsom hall in the house,
but no very grand apartments; in one room are two Chinese figures

40 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
above three feet high of a whitish metal; one has a pipe in the hana,
the other a stringed instrument. From this place I went 2 miles to
the New Church, handsomly built of free stone, and is a chapel of
ease to Frome. I crossed some streams that fall into the Frome,
and went two miles to IMarston, the seat of the Earl of Cork and
Orrery, situated on the side of a rising ground on the North side
of the valley. It is a large convenient house finished in an elegant
manner, and his Lordship has a. very noble library of books all
collected by himself; in this collection is a jaw of an elk found in
Marston. the freestone soil some where in the County. The Earl is improving
the place in very elegant taste. There is a lawn with a statue of
Minerva at the end of it; then to the right another lawn with a
plantation of wood adorned with busts, and an open temple with
an altar in it, and ancient statues. To the left of the first lawn is a
winding walk to the cottage built near the place, where a person
lived (in the times of confusion after King Charles the first) in a litle
house under the park wall. Lord Broghill, the ancestor of Lord
Orrery, being at church in those times, and a clergyman not
coming, a message was sent to him that there was a person in
church who, if he pleased, would perform the service, and he
preached such an ingenious sermon that Lord Broghill sent for
him, and found he was a deprived clergyman of the name of
Ashbury, and that he and his son lived under the park, and main
tained themselves by their labour ; on which my Lord took them
under his protection, and procured him a pension. This cottage is
built and furnished as it is supposed a person in his situation might
have done it, and there is a window with a wooden shutter to it open
ing to the road, with this inscription on it : " Sunt quos pulverem
collegisse juvat." At the other end oi the garden in a corner is a litle
Hermitage near finished for my Lord's youngest son : there is a deep
way cut down to it with wood on each side, a seat or two in it — one
is made in the hollow of a tree; it leads to a litle irregular court,
with a fence of horses' heads and bones. It is a cabin, poorly
thatch'd, and a bedstead covered- with straw at one end, a chimney

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 4 L
at the other, and some beginning made of very poor furniture. In
one part of the garden a very fine horse of my Lord's is buryed with
a monument — a pedestal, with an urn, I think, on it ; on three
sides, in English, there is an account of the horse, and on the foui'th
side is this latin inscription, " Hie sepultus est Rex Nobby Equorum
Princeps omnium sui generis longe prsestantissimus obiit Feb. 12,
1754, JEtat. 35." Two or three fields below the house is a cold
bath, as in an enclosure of an ancient Cemitery, with several old
inscriptions made for it, and at the end is a small room very
elegantly furnished, this I take to be Lady Orrery's place of retire
ment. A small mile from Marston is Normey Castle, called also
Nonney de la Mere, which is an octagon, the two long sides being
about sixty feet long, and the Castle is thirty feet broad, the three
sides ac each end being very short. There are towers at each
corner, which are a segment of a circle, one of these sides being the
basis at the end of the Castle, and these towers on the outside come
within five feet and a half of each other. In one or two of these
towers was a staircase, and the middle part of the builaing con
sisted of a grand room on each floor._ The building is very strong,
and of excellent masonry of hewn stone on the outside. This Castle
was built by the De la Meres. I went two miles to a
Mansion house belonging to Lord Orrery, a very beautifull situa
tion over a rivlet which falls into the Frome, the ground being in
high cliffs on each side, and beautifully adorn'd with rock and wood,
and, if I mistake not, they have a lime stone here. I went on to
Frome, which is a large town of about 1000 houses prettily situated
on the sides of the hills over the river, and consists of two or three
long streets ; it has been distinguished by the name of Frome Sel-
wood, from Selwood Forest in which it was situated, the name of all
the country formerly called Selwoodshire, seal wad scire and Bpis-
copatus Sciriturnensis, according to Ethelward. It is a great town
for the woollen trade of broad cloths, and it is said they havQ sent
out of it to the value of 6 or £700,000 a year; they are also famous
for malt liquor. There are two manners here ; one belongs to
CAMD. SOC, G VOL. II.

42 ¦ THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Lord Weymouth, the other to Lord Orrery, and out of the latter
two Constables are chosen by the Court Leaf for the government of
the town. There are a great number of Dissenters here of all sorts.
In the Church yard at the east end of the Church is an iron grate
in shape of a coffin with a mitre on it, over the grave of Bishop
Ken, who lived with Lord Weymouth, and putting seven or eight
hundred pounds into that Lord's hands, the produce of his effects, he
gave him an annuity of eighty pounds a year. He dyed at Longleat,
dressed up in his shroud, and desired to be buryed at sunrising and
his pall to be borne by poor old men. The Mendippe hills begin a
litle to the west, and extend to the seaside ; Lye, under Mendippe,
being about four or five miles from this place. Wilton, July 2'i, 1754.
On the first of July I left Lord Orrery's and went three com
puted miles across the valley to Witham, where there was a
Nunnery founded by Henry 3". It was granted to the family of
that Lord Hopton who is famous in the history of K. Charles P*,
and afterwards came to the Windhams ; aud the present proprietor,
S^' Charles, marrying a Daughter of he had granted
him by patent the honour of Earl of Egremont, one of the titles of
the late Duke of Somerset. It is a large house', but a low situation ;
the old chapel and some other parts of the Nunnery remain. Lord
Egremont has lately removed all his furniture from it, not purposing
to live there any more. The Park rises up finely, and I saw part
of the old enclosure, and, at a litle distance, the Fairy, probably the
farm house of the Nunnery. I could not find the least remains at
the place called the Charter house, where it is said the first house of
that order in England was founded. Almost directly east of this is
Bra'dky. Maiden Bradley in Wiltshire, where Manassor Bisset founded a
Priory in the time of King Stephen, and his daughter an Hospital
for Maidens ; it is the estate of 8=^ Edward Seymour, now Duke of
Somerset, who has always resided in this place. Leaving Witham
we soon came on the estate of Stourehead, formerly Lord Stourton's

Witham.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 43
now Mr. Hoare's. It has its name from being at the Stour head,
which they say rises from six springs out of so many valleys, and I
saw at Salisbury a tomb of the family, on each side of which are
three holes to represent the six springs, and the spaces between 'em
the hills which divide the vales; this, they told me, was the family
arms. Over the northern vale we went on a very fine terras,
which is a lawn ; on each side there are plantations, and, passing by
an obelisk to which there is a walk from the grounds, came to the
house, which is a very handsome building of hewn stone, the design
of Campbell. There is a fine hall and saloon beyond it, and a very
handsom library, and the whole is finished and furnished in the
most elegant manner, and, beside many fine originals, there are.
some very good copies, especially by Davison, I think his name
was, of Frome. To the South of the house is a lawn with a piece
of water, and from that is a winding descent over the above-men
tioned valley ; in the way is a Dorick open Temple, and below, over
the water, is an lonick temple, with a handsom room in it; below
this are two large pieces of water, which are to be made into one
and much enlarged, for which a head is making at great expence.
There are to be three islands in it, with different kinds of buildings Stoureton.
in them, one of which is to be a Mosque with a Minaret. On the
other side of the water is a very beautiful grotto, with cascades of
water at the end falling down in streams about a river God. In
this grotto are a great variety of spars and christals, and other
curious stones ; but the most magnificent building is the Temple of
Hercules, not yet finished, with a grand portico of the Corinthian
or Composite order. A Colossal Statue of Hercules, which is
making in London by Risbrack, is to be placed in the nich opposite
to the entrance ; in the other niches are to be statues and pulvinars ;
on each side of the entrance is a small open apartment, to be adorned
also with statues. The prospect from this spot is very beautiful of
the places I have already described, of the village of Stourton in
the bottom, and of the vale in which the Stoure runs from this
water. I was shown before the house the hole of the vault into

44 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
which that person was thrown who was murdered by Lord
Stoureton's order by his servants, in the reign of Queen Mary, the
particulars of which are in Strype's Annals. He could not obtain
of the Queen to be beheaded, nor of the Bishop to be buryed in the
I have been Cathedral with his family, unless the halter was hung up over the
that\he A™ grave, which was of silk, and is now supplyed by one of wyre,
cestorofthe This Lord's descendants have a small estate here of about two'
don married hundred pounds a year. I saw to the south in the Church of Pen,
the daughter -v^here probablv the battle of Pen was fought with the Danes. I
01 the person "^ i .i
who was mur- Went two Computed miles to Mere, and observed to the left the end
she was^Gr^t* °^ ^ ^^^^ fortifyed just over the town, called, if I mistake not, the
Grandmother Castle of'Mere, and seems to be Beacon hill in Speed's map. Mere
Anne. is a Very small town, subsists chiefly by a manufacture of tickin ;
Mere. it stands on a rivlet which falls into the Stoure. The Church
within is preserved more in its ancient state than any Church I
have seen in England, with the rood lofts and seats. I here saw
this inscription round a monument of Brass set in stone:
Hie jacet Johannes Bettesthorne quondam Dominus de Chadialkriche fundator
istius Cantarii qui obiit VI. die Pebruarii Anno Domini M°cooxc. Cujus animse
propitietur Dens. Amen.
On another, in the same manner, is a figure in armour with a
sword and dagger, with this inscription :
Tu qui transieris videas sta perlege plora. Es quod eram et eris quod sum pro
mihi precor ora.
I came into Dorsetshire and went seven mjles to Shaftsbury,
passing near Gillingham, which gave name to the Forest formerly
here, and going also near Hartgrove hill, a very beautiful spot
with two fortifyed mounts on it, very near the one to the other.
We began to ascend the hill to Shaftsbury, and passed by the water
with which the town is supplyed by carriage in pails on horses'
backs. They save the rain water (in cisterns made under their
courts) which fall from the houses, what wells they have being
fourscore yards deep. This extraordinary town is situated towards

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 45
the South end of a ridge of hills about four miles in length. It is
said to be built in the 8th century, and to have been enlarged by
King Alfred, who they say built ten parish churches. There was
a Nunnery here founded by Lady JElgiva, wife to Edmund, great
grandson to King Alfred, and there are some remains of what they
call the Abbey at the South end of the town, and foundations of
buildings extend from it to the terrace over the hanging ground to
the east. There are about four Churches remaining, but no appear
ance of any thing which has marks of great antiquity. They have
traditions of other Churches, and there are some remains of them Shaftsbury.
in houses, and particularly at the Swan there is seen going up to
the roof a painted Glory at the East end. It is mentioned that one
of the Saxon Edwards was buryed here, but on what authority
I know not. There are several old houses in the town. It is the
post road from London to Exeter. They have some trade in
malt, and supply many parts round about with all kind of roots,
and the country with necessary's which is well inhabited, and no
towns of consequence very near. These things are the chief sup
port of the town, in which there are computed to be above 600
houses. Auditor Benson, formerly Member of Parliament here,
was at great expence to bring water to the town from that head of
the Nadder which is called the Donee, by engines which raised the
water 300 feet up to the town, but the people taking umbrage on
some particular account, refused to make use of this water, and so
all was suffered to run to ruin. There is a most glorious prospect
from the end of the hill where there is a small old fortification of
which the fossee only is seen. The view beginning at the east is
towards Cranbourne Chase, then along the Frome towards Blandford,
and where the hills come close to the river ; one of them to the
South is called Ocford hill, and to the east of that is Hamilton hill,
.where Oliver's forces had a skirmish with the people of the country.
We then saw towards Dorchester and a gap in the hill towards
Weymouth, called Dorchester Gap ; we saw also the country towards
Sherbourn, and the hills that are the bounds between this country
and Devonshire, all an exceeding rich and beautifull country.

46 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OP
Andover, July 3*, 1754.
I left Shaftsbury on the 2*, and chose to go along the hill to the
north, and descended at the end of it into that valley in which the
Nadder runs, and saw on it Westhatch, a fine plantation, which
they told me did belong to S'' Robert Hyde. I passed by Basley
hill, which seemed to have been a fortifyed Mount, and came to
Wardour Castle, a fine old ruin of freestone ; it was an oblong square
building, enlarged on each side by a building of three sides. Ovei:
the door, and below a bust, is this inscription :
Sub numine : D M O
Stet Genus et Domus gentis Arandeli£e. Thomas
Lanhernia Proles Junior hoc meruit prime sedere loco
Ut sedit cecidit, sine crimine plectitur ille
Insons insoutem Fata sequita probant
Nam quEe ]?atris erant Matthseus filius emit,
Empta auxit, studio Principis aucta manent
Comprecor aucta diu maneant augenda per ajvuni
Hsec dedit, eripuit, restituitque Deus
1578.
The garden is made round the Castle, and some of the old enclo
sure seems to remain. The mansion house is built to it. There is
a fine piece of water made in the valley to the west. In 1643
Lady Arundel defended the Castle a week with 25 men against
1,300 Parliamentarians, and she and her children were imprisoned,
and great damage done to the estate, in violation of the capitula-
Tisbury. tion. In a mile and half I went a litle out of the way to Tisbury
Quarry, which is an excellent freestone, in which there are shells,
particularly the heart; and I observed a sort of dendrite. In half
a mile I came to Tisbury on the same river. In. the Church the
Lords of Arundel are buryed, who were made Counts of the
Empire for the merit of their ancestor, Thomas Lord Arundel,
who, serving under Rudolph the second, took a standard from the
Turks at an assault at Gran, in Hungary. There are niches for
statues at the end of the North Isle, where there was an altar.
I observed here some old enclosure, and enquiring, they told me

DB. RICHARD POCOCKE. 47
that some land that way was call'd the Abbey land. I went two
miles further to Funthill, on a small rivlet of that name, which falls
into the larger river about Tisbury; here M'^ Beckford, a native of
Jamaica, and member of Parliament for London, who has three
brothers in parliament, and his sister married to Lord Effingham
Howard, has a very handsom seat and estate purchased of M"^
Codrington, who resides part of his time at Brewham lodge, which
we saw in Somersetshire in the way from Witham park to Stoure
head, and partly at Freemantle park in Hampshire, in a house he
has built on the top of an high hill, the offices for shelter being
under ground, and the apartments he lives in built over them,
where there is a well deep. The house here was very
much improved by this gentleman, and fronted in the Italian taste;
to the west it is in two half H-% one to the South-east, and the other
the grand front to the East, on one side of which there is a large
wing of stable offices. The house is finished within at muchMr.Beckfords.
expence, and there are many modern paintings all over it as well as
on the cielings, and a handsom library ; but what is most curious
is a very fine large organ in the haU, which playes thirty tunes
without a hand, and cost about £1500,. Beyond the park, and
opposite to the grand front, M'' Beckford has built a Church, on
the plan of Covent garden, which is a good termination of the
prospect. There is a large lawn that way, and plantations to the
west, an open temple on the side of the hill, and an open rotundo
is building higher up on the hill. To the east is a broad serpentine
river, with a very'handsom bridge of free stone built over it of
three arches, with a stone baluster. To the north is a grand gate
way near the village, from which jhere is a gravel walk to the
grand front about a furlong in length. I went on towards Salis
bury near the river, passing by several villages, and had to the left,
on a rising ground, Grovely, Lord Castlehaven's ; at the distance
of eight miles we saw Salisbury Steeple, and came to Wilton In
the parish Church is the monument of the late Lord Pembroke, the
vault in which he was buryed in the churchyard, according to his

48 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
will, being taken into the Church ; it is a marble bust as against
a pyramid, and under it this inscription —
Here lyeth
Henry Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery,
Baron Herbert of Cardiff, Eoss, of Kendal,
Parr Eitz-Hngh Marmion S' Quintin
And Herbert of Shurland,
Who died Jan. IX. MDCCXLIX.
Aged LXI.
These Honours, Herbert, titles of reno-wn,
From thy great Ancestors transmitted down,
Preserved their Lustre while by Thee possess'd.
Rest, happy Spirit, then contented rest.
But the rich blood which in thy veins has run
Descends through Thee untainted to thy Son.
At the entrance of the town is a small Chapel, which belongs to
the Hospital. Wilton is famous for a manufacture of carpets, like
those of Turkey, but narrow — about three-quarters of a yard wide,
Wilton. whicli is in the hands of three people. I may, at some time, give
you a farther account of Wilton house, as well as of Salisbury
where I lay. and on the third went two miles on the London road
to that river, which rises at CoUingbourne and falls into the Avon
a litle below Salisbury. I went about six miles up the river,
designing to go by Collingborne, but missed my way, and went
near a height on which there seemed to be a rough pillar, and
turning into a road towards Andover came to Quarley hill, in
Hampshire, with a fossee round the top of it, about 842 yards
round, and four entrances to it ; five miles to the east is Dunbury
hill, likewise fortifyed, and supposed to be a camp. I came into a
road from Salisbury, and before had fallen, if I mistake not, into
the Ambresbury road ; and in about two miles I left this road, and
went to the left to Amport, on a rivlet, which rises a litle higher ;
and, as it is laid down in the map, is joyned by the rivlet from
Andover,- and falls into the Test at Leckford. Here one of the
Pawlets has a seat We passed two or three more villages, left the
river, and came to Andover. I had a view in the road of Chute

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 49
and Collingborn hills. Andover is said to have its name from the
passage there over the river Ande, probably the old name of that Dour is water
river. Here King Etheh-ed endeavour'd to establish peace by ^^ ^ntish.
adopting Anlaf the Dane. It is a small neat town, with a hand
some Town house. I saw, a mile from the town, Bere hill, on
which there is an old Camp, and it is said there is another Camp
half a mile from it. At Whorwell, near, a Monastery was built by
Queen Elfrith to expiate some crime of her relations. At Weyhill,
near Andover, a great fair is held about Michaelmas, for hops,
cheese, sheep, wool, and all sorts of goods. There is a great
manufacture in this town for serges and shaloons. It is said there Andover.
was a Monastery and Chantry here. Andover is the high road
from Kingsclere, Overton, and Whitchurch, as well as from New
bury, to Salisbury and Amesbury.
P.S. — I went from Andover six miles to Uphusborn (the wood
on the river), being on a rivlet that rises a litle higher and falls
into the Teit ; it is call'd the Swift, This is the road for wheel
carriage to Newbury, but the bridle-road, and the nearer, is by
Stoke, both meeting at three leg'd cross, near Cruxeaston, I came
by Hawcleer and Penwood to Newtown.

Excursions from Newtown, 1754,
I left Newtown on the 30th of July, went through Newbury and Aug. 12.
by Speen and Wickham, and came by seeing Mr.
Archer's in the vale in which the river Lamborn runs, which passes
by Dennington and falls into the Kennet. About a mile before I
came to Lambourn I observed a valley to the right, which is the
division "between the gravelly country and the chalk and down
country we then entered. Lamborne is situated on the river of that
name, which is here very small, and I was told that in some seasons
there is no water at the town. It is a neat small town, in which
there are many farmers and publick-houses, and a good number of
CAMD. SOC. H VOL. II,

50 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
shops. It is the high road between Oxford and Marlborough ; they
have a small market, but sell a large quantity of corn by sample.
It belonged to the Fitzwarrens, and afterward to the Essexes. In
the church, on a monument, is this epitaph :
" Here lyeth the bodies of S=^ Thomas Essex, Knight, who
deceased the 21st day of August, in the year of our Lord God a
thousand five hundred fifty-eight, and Dame Margaret his wife."
On the tomb are their couchant statues. There is a dolphin at his
feet, and his head rests on a helmet on which is the family crest, and
there is a chain with a cross to it about his neck. The son of this
gentleman sold the estate to Lord Craven's ancestor and dyed a poor
Knight of Windsor. The Gothic arches of the Church are on Saxon
pillars. The ancestor of Mr. Hipperley of this place founded an
almshouse for ten old men, and built a chapel adjoyning to the
church for them to read prayers in morning and evening. From
this place I went two miles to Baydon, and two more to Auburne, a
large village called a town ; they have no market, and it consists of
farmers. There is an old monument of the Goddards in the church
with five or six statues on it. Here is a rivlet after great rain, from
which it is called Auborne ; it falls into the Kennet below Rames-
bury, but at present I could see nothing of it, the constant source of
it being lower. The downs and warrens called Auborne Chase
belong to this parish. I came over the downs about seven miles to
Minal or Mildenhall, on the Kennet, a mile and half below Marl
borough. They find here in the fields many flint echini, some rare
rib'd cockle shells, a great quantity of iron-stone; and I have one
piece of very fine small white coral petrifyed. There is an old
entrenchment on the river which I imagine might be a summer
station for the horse at Canetio, in. order to forage. In a field on
the side of the hill, on the other side of the river, much Roman coin
has been found.
Above Minal, on the other side of the river, is a large barrow in
a meadow, which from it has the name of Barrow close. The living
of Minal is in the patronage of the descendant of Dr. Pococke, the

DR. EICHARD POCOCKE. 51
famous Orientalist ; his son married into the Monpesson family, from
whom a remarkable picture came into the family, which is in the
parsonage house. It is of a pike four feet and nine inches long and
eleven inches broad, with this inscription, which I have corrected :
" This is the bigness of the pike which the Emperor Frederick
the Second, with his own hand, hath put the first time into a poole
at Lantern, and hath marked him with this ring in the year 1230 ;
afterwards it was brought to Heydelberg, the 6th of November,
1497, when he had been in the poole 267 years." Marlborough is
judged to be the old Canetio, supposed to be the ancient name of
the river Kennet, on which it stand?. It was a Roman station
placed by.Antonine 20 miles from Vertucio, supposed by Horsley
to be Leckham, near Laycock, where coins are found. There are
some remains of the old fosse, and the mount is shaped of late years
with a spiral walk out of the keep of the castle ; it is in the garden
of the house belonging to the late Duke of Somerset, and now to
Lord Egremont ; it is lett for an inn, and has almost ruined all
the good publick-houses in Marlborough and done great prejudice
to the town itself, as the turnpike road is carried to it behind the
town. 'Prince John, before he was king, had a castle here, which
was taken by Hubert, Archbishop of Canterbury, when he was in
rebellion against his brother. King Richard. A Parliament was
held here in the 52 of Henry 3d, when the Statute of Marlborough
against riots was made. To the church, at the east end of the town,
there is a very good Saxon door. Over the north side of the town
is a bowling-green, finely situated, given by a gentleman of the
the town, and adorned and kept in order by a publick subscription.
At Poultons, near the east end of the town, is the remains of a
deep fosse and rampart, which seemed to have belonged to a private
castle. At Preshut Church, a mile above Marlborough, I saw an Marlborough,
ancient round font, made out of touchstone and adorned with several
members ; they say many Princes have'been baptized in it. A litle
higher, in Clatford wood, I was informed there are 'of those stones,
called Grey Weathers, bigger than those at Stonehenge. I went on

52 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
six miles to Kennet, and to the head of the Kennet, directly south
of Selbury Hill, at a place called Swallow Head, where, after rains,
the Kennet does actually rise, but the constant source is a furlong
lower, where it rises out of an ousy ground. I took particular
notice of Selbury Hill, said to be the tomb of King Sel or Silver ;
it may be, say they, of Ceol, King of the" West Saxons. It is at the
end of an hill, from which it seems plainly to have been cut, and
the hill at the end was probably higher than the part which joyned
to it, and on the west side it appears plainly that it was shaped from
the solid hill, because it is steeper than loose earth would lye, or
than it is in other parts, and consequently has broken away. There
appear also two settlements above this at the top. A sort of fossfe
appears all round where the ground was high, but to the north,
where it is plain, the ground is level. From this place I went a
measured mile northward to Aybury, which is a great piece of
antiquity most accurately described by Dr. Stukely. I observed
the square enclosure which takes in part of the town, being a large
Aybury. rampart. There are many large stones within it, some up an end,
others fallen down, and I saw some heaps of stones for building
which they had lately made by blowing up and breaking in pieces
these curious monuments of antiquity, I saw here only one stone
of the avenue to Kennet, but saw several from Kennet up the hill ;
and before I came to Kennet I observed three stones, one of which
was fallen down, and I suppose were those called the Devil's Coits.
I did not see the barrow in Mounkton field with stones round it. 1
crossed over the downs, and in a valley saw many of the stones
called the Grey Weathers, but not very large. A thought came
into my mind, that as these stones are commonly found in that
situation, that they might be strata of stones on the brow of the
hills, which by some accidents might have been loosened, and so by
their weight most of them have subsided to the valleys beneath.
About four miles to the north-east of Aybury is Barbury Castle, an
old entrenchment at the end of a ridge of hills which extend from
Marlborough to the south-west of Ogbourne ; there is a fortification

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE, 53
before the entrance, and on the south-east hill is a deep hole with a
large dike round it ; this I take to have been the well. I observ'd
a small trench at the bottom, which went up the side of the hill so
as to encompass the works ; this was probably for the advanced
guard. This is supposed to be Beranberig, and not Banbury, where
Kenrick, King of the West Saxons, and his son Ceaulin, fought
against the Britains in 556. Four miles from this, to the north of,
is Bradbury Castle, another camp with a single deep trench, both of
them being about a quarter of a measured mile in circumference,
and both of them fine situations, especially Bradbury, called also
Leddington Castle, commanding a view near as far as Oxford and
into Gloucestershire, Worcestershire, and Somersetshire, as well as
Berkshire and some part of Hampshire. ' About this place, Ina the
West Saxon and Ceolred the Mercian Kings fought a drawn battle ;
these two were doubtless enemies' camps, and it is probable that the"
battle was between them, it may be about Draicot. There is a
Roman way from Minal towards the castle, and it is said it comes
from Winchester, and probably it is the same that is mentioned at
Escourt, near Great Bedwin, as a Roman way.'' I saw the Church
of Wanboro, with a spire in the middle and a tower at the west end,
about which place Roman coins have been found. I went another
day by Ogbome and Barbury Castle, and from the heigth observed
Swindon, where there is a quarry of a black slaty stone, which rises
large and makes very good tombstones. And when I came towards
the foot of the hill, I observed there was a sort of a white stone,
approaching very near to the nature of chalk, and so it is all along
the foot of the hills, and it is remarkable that the chalk country or
the gravelly extends all along by thf Thames, and the rivers that
fall into it, tho' there is a free stone in some parts, as about Oxford.
The chalk country extends from the Isle of Purbeck all the way to
Huntingtonshire, with veins of gravel between it ; on the Severn,
" Though on looking into the Itinerary, Iter xiv. it seems rather to be the road
from Caleva Attrebatum, Eamham, by Spinae and Canetio, Marlborough, and from
that to Durocorinium, Dobunornm, Cirencester. — Note in MS.

54 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
and rivers that fall into it, is free stone and other stone, and north
ward, I believe on most parts of the coast except Wales, which is of
different kinds of rock, it is a free stone, most of which seems to ba
a composition of sand. From Barbury Hill I went down to Uscole
and passed near Wroughton, where lately in digging a well they
found, 100 feet under ground, a curious rib'd cockle, which I have
in my collection ; the outer shell is gone off, ¦ the inner coat of a
greenish mother-of-pearl is most beautifull. I passed in sight of
Lediard, the seat of the St. John's, now Lord Bullingbroke, which
Margaret Beauchamp gave to her second son, Oliver St. John.
Three miles more, brought me to Wotten Basset, a small town of
one street, where there is some cloth manufacture carried on.
There is a small river near it, wliich falls into the Avon that runs
by Bath, and so into the Severne, the river Rye rising about four
miles to the north, near Swinton, and falls into the Thames. The-
roads in this country are very bad. 'Tis called Breden Forest,
which in 905 was ravaged by Ethelwold Clito and his auxiliary
Danes. Ethelwerd saies, that the Avon was for some time the
boundary between the West Saxon and Mercian kingdoms, and is
thought to be the Antona of Tacitus. I went from Wotten Basset
by Broad Hinton and came down to Rockley, in a valley near which
are several grey weathers ; among them, it is said, springs break
out, called hunger horns, because they denote an approaching
scarcity, and I was told that the hoarders of corn rejoyce whenever
they rise. Passing through Ramesbury, I went to see the Church,
as it was formerly a Bishop's see (quere ?), which seems to have
been first united with Sunning, and then to Shirburne, and lastly to
Ramsbury. Salisbury. There is a very large tower to the Church with a base
ment of free stone, something in the Roman style, and probably is
of great antiquity, as are the pillars in the Church, in which there
is a grand monument, ill executed, with a couchant statue on it of
S'^ William Jones, Attorney General to King Charles the Second,
whose descendants have lived in a handsome house near ; there is
also an old Chapel, called Dorrels Cliapel, in which there are some

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE. 55
old monuments that were adorned with brass plates. A litle lower
I pass'd by Litlecot, the seat of the Pophams, descended from Lord
Chief Justice Popham, whose monument I saw at Wellington, in
Somersetshire. I formerly observed at this place the effects of a
whirlwind, which crossed a wood at some distance, tore off the tops
of the trees about twenty feet above the ground, came to a barn of
Mr. Popham's and took off the thatch, oversett a load of straw, did
some damage to an office beyond, and there it is supposed it stop'd,
no marks of it being seen farther. I passed through Hungerford, a
small town famous for nothing but excellent trouts and eels, caught
in the river' about this" place. Hungerford Park near it is a very
fine situation, as is an hill about Inkpen, called ; not far
from that is Mr. Sloper's house, at Westwoodhay, on the foot of the
Comb Hills ; it is said to be the architecture of Inigo Jones, but it
was the design of a person who married his daughter. I came by
Kintbury, where there is a Saxon doorcase to the Church, and the
comiche seemed to be very old. Two miles from this place is
Hampstead Marshal, where the fine piers remain of the gates and an
old Dorick porch, to which the late Lord Craven began to build a
good house. In tl;e Church, on a flat stone, is this inscription :
" Here lyeth the body of S' Balthazer Gerbier, Kt. Arch., who
built a stately pile of building, in the year 1662 to 1665, for the
Hon. WiUiam, Earl of Craven, of Hampstead Marshal, part of
which was destroyed by fire in the year 1718. He died in the
year 1667." The park belonging to this seat is a very fine situation
and well timber'd, and the late lord built a house in it all arch'd
over -to preserve parchments against fire. A litle lower on the
other side is Speen, a poor village, the« ancient Spinse, but there are
no remains of the old town; here is an eccho at a well to the Church
which repeats seven syllables. Newbury, or the New town, rose out
of this. It is a large town, with one handsome Church in it. Going
to the Wharf is a handsome building called the Hospital, which-
they say was Kenrick's Hospital, who left a great benefaction
to the town. They make here serges and druggets, but there was

56

THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF

Newbury.

Aug. 8, 1754.

Andover.

formerly a much greater^ manufacture than at present. Along this
vale they dig a great quantity of peat, which has much wood in it,
mostly birch ; below it they frequently find a white marie full of
small shells; they find also nuts and a sort of a blew colouring
earth, as well as stags' horns, and from their description of large
horns found some seem to be the elk ; but what is most curious,
they have found the skeletons of bevers' heads. The ashes of
the peat they sell for 4c?., 5d., 6d., nay, sometimes 8d. a bushel
for manure ; they have great trade for flower and malt for
London. Three miles farther is Thatcham, a poor town. In
the Church I saw the monuments of S' Douse Fuller's family,
who formerly lived at Chamber House near, which was a reli
gious house ; at the other end of the town is an old building
which seemed to have been a Chapel, and there is another at
Dunslade in Midiam, tho' Thatcham is the mother Church ; here
is a fine house and estate, the late Mr. Warring's, now Mr. Gore's,
by marrying his widow. Greenham also is a Chapel which the
vicar of Thatcham supplies.
Going lately to Andover by Husborne, I found the rivlet there,
called the Swift, dried up. I went into the Church at Andover and
observed that the arches of the tower in the middle of the Church
were Saxon, and also the pillars in the Church, and there is a fine
Saxon doorcase. In the chancel are the monuments of the Venables,
who had the estate and rectory here before the Pollens. There is
an inscription here which mentions George H as founder
of the Free School in 1569.
Going to Salisbury, I passed near the Camp of Beer Hill, and
close by another, I was informed of, as half a mile from it. Four
or five miles from Salisbury there is a Tuscan pillar on the hill over
which the road goes, with such a Mercury on it as is in Christ
Church fountain at Oxford. Opposite to it, to the east, are the
plantations of Mr. Thistlethwait, at , the heir of Mr.
Norton. Beyond Salisbury three miles we went to Langborough,
Lord Folkstone's seat on the Avon, near the conflux of a small

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. 57
river, which rises westward out of Cranborne Chace. This house
was built by , and as I was informed, was bought
about 30 or 40 years ago of Lord Colerain. It is a triangular
house, with a round tower joyning to each corner ; it is built of
free stone, and is esteemed as one of the best finish'd and furnished
houses in England. The apartments below are exceeding neat and
handsom, as those above are very fine and grand. In one apart
ment the furniture is of mahogany carved and gilt, many fine
Japan pieces of furniture. One sleeping apartment is furnished
with chintz and Indian paper. Another apartment is hung with
fine Flemish tapestry of the design of Tenieres ; and in the gallery
are some very fine original paintings, marble tables, and brotize
groups, and the chimney boards through the house are made of
Chinese pictures, which show several of their customs. The rooms
in the round towers are very beautifull ; one is a chapel, another a
library ; among the pictures, I saw of Beauverie, the ancestor, who
fled in Queen Elizabeth's time for religion from Flanders. The
river is on two sides of the flne lawn and plantations, and at the
further end is a banquetting house ; in the part near the house are
knots of flowering shrubs.
We went to Wilton and to Stonehenge, and then to Ambresbury.
On the plains near died in battle Ambrosius Aurelianus, supposed
by some to be descended from the Emperor Constantine, who
in the 4tb consulship of Theodosius was chosen emperor in Britain,
and murdered at Aries. He took on him the government of
Britain, and with the help of King Arthur made a stand against
the enemy. From him this place had its name ; British kings are
mentioned to be buryed here, probably in some of the barrows
round Stonehenge. Here was a monastery of 300 monks built to
pray for the souls of those who were murdered by Hengist's
treachery. Alfritha, wife of King Edgar, founded a monastery, to
expiate her crime of murdering her son-in-law King Edward ; and
in 1177 the abbess and 30 nuns were expell'd for their incontinence,
and others brought to it. Mary, daughter of King Edward 1st,
CAMD. SOC. I "VOL. U.

58 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
and thirteen noblemen's daughters, and Queen Elinor, widow of
Henry 3*. took the veil here. This inscription is said to have been
found in this place, thought to be spurious, R. G. A. G. 1600 {sic),
supposed by some to be of Guinever, wife of King Arthur, who is
said to have been buried at Glassenbury. In King Edgar's reign
in 995 Elfric was elected Archbishop of Canterbury, in a synod
Ambersbury. which was held here. The Duke of Queensborough has the estate,
on which the manner was built, which did belong to Lord Oarleton.
It is a small hunting house, but the garden is laid out on the river
and up the side of the hill, in beautiful lawn and plantations ; there
is an handsome stone bridge over the river, another on which a
Chinese house is built, and a third is a wooden arch, which was
made as a specimen for a wooden bridge at Westminster. Going
on to Andover, I crossed the valley at a place, if I mistake not,
called Sowley, where the river I was tracing when I came before
from Salisbury runs when the waters'" are high, but was not at
present to be seen here; it is that river which rises in winter at
Collingborne. We left Quarley hill to the right, and went by
Thruxton and Weyhill, where the great fair is annually held at
Michaelmas. I came by Andover and Stoke, which is between Up
Husborne and Bourne, and by three leg'd Cross, and Cruxeaston to
Newtown. Old Windsor, Aug. I3th, 1754.
Leaving Newtown on the 12th, I came in three miles to Itchings-
well, where there is a Chapel and a fine stream of water, not
observed in the maps. In a mile I passed under Freemantle Park,
where Mr. Cottington lately built an house of two floors, one of
which is all under ground, and he dug a well feet deep. Here
was a camp, and it is said some remains of a castle. We soon came
to Kingscleer, which was a seat of the Saxon kings, there is
another rivlet ; this is a very poor town, they have a small market
and sell corn by sample. In the Church is the monument of S"^
Henry Kingsmill, who died in 1625. He was father of S' William

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 59
and of John Kingsmill, who lived at Sandleford. On it are the
couchant statues of S' Henry and his lady ; she erected this monu
ment in the 48th year of her widowhood. The large old tower is
built on Saxon arches ; and there is a font, the top part of which
seems to be an old freiie, being carved with roses and paterae, and is
of an uncommon marble, something of the nature of a brown granite ;
the lower part of it seems also to have been an old capital. I went
from this place to Rookley down, within three miles of Basingstoke,
and came to West Sherbourn, called also Monks Sherburn, and
came a mile farther to East Sherbum. In a Chapel on one side
of the Church are ihe tombs of the Brocas's, one adorned with brass
jdates is of 1477. There are two couchant statues on another ; the
inscription on one side is covered by a seat, on the other is this
inscription: " Conditur in hoc tumulo Radolphus I F 0 1 0 Rexs al Armiger,"
and " Simul hie Conjugis ossa jacent Edithse Haeredis nuper et pul-
cherrima proles Gulielmi Armigeri Brocas Bellorepairi."
Here also is the monument of Richard Atkins, of 1635, who
marryed one of the family of the Vine, whose name is not men
tioned, and also of Mr. Lyons, a French refugee, the vicar, who
built the south part of the parsonage-house, and procur'd the
vicaridge to be enlarged by Queen Anne^s Bounty. A rivlet rises
here, called the Wey brook ; I came to Chinam, within a mile of
Basingstoke, belonging to Lady Nicoles, where there is an old
Chapel not in service, and soon came into the turnpike road from
Basingstoke to Reading, which towns are seventeen miles apart.
I came by Sherfield Tourges and Heckfield Heath, where Mr.
Sturt has an house and park, and to Eversley Black water, a river
which falls into the Loddon, as another we passed half a mile from
Hundred Oaks, I suppose, falls into this, which is the bounds both
of the forest and of Berkshire. Mr. Cummins lias a handsome
house at Eversley. Blackwater and the village of Eversley is
about a mile to the east. We passed by Finchamsted, a Church on
a heigth, seen at a great distance, to which, if I mistake not, there

60 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
is a semicircular chancel in the old way. Crossing the heaths, I
saw to the right Bigshot Lodge, belonging to Lord George
Beauclerc; bej-ond it is a long hill called Lodge Hill, extending
near to Bagshot Heath, to the west of that a small . hill called
Amborough Hill, and a small round one call'd Edgeborough Hill.
Oakingham. I came to Oakingham, near which there is a brook that rises in the
heath, and, I suppose, falls into the Loddon. It is a small town,
with an handsome square; they have a manufacture of serges,
serge denim, and baragons, and send malt to London; this place is
about five miles from Twiford and Reading. In the Church Bishop
Godwin is buryed, with this inscription :
Tho. Godwin,
Ba. et Wells. Eps
15—
It is a good Church, with true Gothick slender pillars ; there is
an hospital in this parish at Locker's Green, founded in the time
of King Charles I. by H. Lucas, Esq. for sixteen pensioners, who
have £10 a year, with a chaplain who has £50 a year.
I was informed, in relation to the rivers of the country I passed,
that the river near Silchester, which rises at Pamber, and is called
the Berville river, runs by Mortimer, and falls into the Kennet at
Burville, tho' the maps place it as falling into the Loddon. The
Loddon rises at Newnham, near Basingstoke, and goes by Wild-
more, Sherfield, Stafordsea, and Swallowfield into the Thames,
running near Twiford. Weybrook, the rise of which I saw at East
Sherborn, runs by Stratfield, and then, as I believe, falls into the
Loddon, Hampton Court, Aug. 15th, 1754.
On the 13th I left Oakingham, and going about a mile in the
road to London, which passes near East Hamsted, I turned to
the right and came to East Hamsted Heath, having to the right the
house of the late S"" Wm, Trumbal, which now belongs to his son.

DR. EICHARD POCOCKE. 61
The father  {blank in MS.)
I rid towards Lodgehill, to the east of which there is an irregular
hill fortifyed with a deep trench, and is called by the common
people Caesar's Camp. I went round it, and found it to be 1912
paces round ; the red deer frequent this place much for shelter in
the fossee. This was probably a camp of the Britains, when the
country was covei-'d with wood ; and it is not improbable they had
their camp here when Julius Caesar approached the Thames, end
that it might have its name from being the camp which they had
formed to oppose him. From this place I passed by Mr. Fisher's,
an improvement on a grant he lately had out of the forest, and
through another of the like nature belonging to Mr. Jenison. I
went by the race-posts of Sunning Hill, and turned to the right to
that place, where I tasted the chalybeat waters, which are of the same
nature, but not so strong as those at Tunbridge. They have a large
room, and company resort to it in the season. To the left of this is
Mr. Fisher's park ; beyond that is Cranborn Chace, and the road from
Oakhampton, and further on is St. Leonard's Hill, Mr. Anscomb's
charming seat. But a litle out of this road and nearer Sunning is
Cranborne lodge, formerly Lord Ranelagh's, then the Duke of St,
Albans, and on his death granted to the Duke of Cumberland. It is
not a large house, but a very fine situation, commanding a view to the
west, north, and east as far as the eye can reach, a fine view of Wind
sor, Harrow-on-the-hill and Hamsted hill,- and one can just discern
London, also veryj)lainly Stoke House, now Lady Cobham's, a fine
old structure, in a park, built 1671 by S"^ Edw. Hastings, knt. of
the garter, and a temple in Langley park belonging to the Duke of
Marlborough, In the gallery at Cranburn are pictures of soldiers
drawn, about eighteen inches long, in the uniform of every regi
ment of England and Hanover, with the numbers by which they
are now distinguished. This was lone under the Duke's direction.
There are some pictures left by L* Ranelagh, as a Turkish wedding,
the Siege of Buda, A View of the Seraglio, and a German arti
ficial Boar Hunting, and there is also here the Battle of in

62 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
1702, in which the horse are represented as passing the river.
There is lawn and walks through the woods about the place. Two
The Duke's i^iles from it, near the park wall towards Windsor, is the Duke's
Island. Island; it is on a pond, with a cutt made round the island, on which
a room is built in the figure of a Greek cross, with a couch on each
side of the four parts of the cross ; behind it, covered with trees, is
a kitchen, &c. The Duke often comes here and spends an hour or
two, and sometimes dines. Two miles from Sunning Hill is the
beginning of the Duke's great works ; the Oakingham road goes
through it. It is a valley between two rising grounds, at the
extremity to the south-west ; on an eminence the Duke has built a
triangular tower, which is hexagon within, with a hexagon tower at
each corner, which are round within. In one of the towers is the
staircase which leads to the beautifull hexagon room, in which there
are in the sides three doors and three windows, two of 'em lead to
the round closets ; in one are litle shelves hung up for books for the
Duke's use; in the other, on such shelves, is china for tea'and coffee.
The hexagon is most beautiful, the sides are adorned with festoons
and flowets and fruits hanging down from them on each side of the
doors and windows in stucco, and painted in their natural colours ;
over each door is a bass-relief, in white marble, a Sacrifice to
Apollo, to Hercules, to Diana ; in the center is a branch adorned
with Chelsea china, and a group of small statues in the middle of it
of the same ware ; the whole cost £200. Below are closets for the
housekeeper, and underground kitchen and offices. The views
from the leads are extremely fine to the north, east, and south; we
saw Westminster very plain, just discern'd St. Paul's, a view all
along the Thames that way, then to Guilford and towards Farnham.
and a single beautiful hill is seen between, and still farther, and it
commands a fine view of the Serpentine River I am going to
describe, to which there is a gentle descent. This river extends
two miles in the park, and farther into the forest ; it is made by
collecting the waters of the Several springs and rivlets round about ;
at this end it is, I believe, a quarter of a mile broad, and is kept up

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 63
by a head, which is made into a fine terrace ; it goes under a bridge,
and forming a litle lake, it falls down a cascade, made of great
stones thirty feet deep, which shows how great a work it was to
make a head that keeps up the water in that mamier; here it forms
another pool, from which the superfluous water runs off in a stream
through the valley. Just above the first-mentioned small lake there
is a cave made of the same great stones as the cascade, which seems
to be a sandy freestone ; but some of it is grown exceeding hard,
and it may be would polish ; these stones are found about the
heath, and there is no quarry of them ; they are adorning the inside
of the cave with cinder of glass houses or clinkers, shells, stalactites,
gypse, &c. On the Serpentine river is a small yatch, which has
sailed on the sea, a Chinese ship, the middle of which is high,
covered and glazed, a Venetian gondola, and five or six other
different kinds of boats ; at the other end is a wooden bridge of one
arch, which, if I mistake not, I was informed is one hundred and
ten feet wide. Going up the hill beyond this, and having a view of
the ships and boats, it looks like an arm of the sea. About. fifty
yards from the pales on each side of this water, the Duke has planted
large trees, and small ones between them, with a winding walk
thorough, and between this and the walls is to be fine lawn, part of
which is made, and more is preparing. Going up from the bridge
about half a mile to the right is a large Obelisk, and then we soon
came to the woods and plantations about the Duke's Lodge, beyond
which is a very fine piece of water, and behind the house lawn, and
a round temple over the water. From this house to Windsor there
is a grand road three miles long. Twenty men are employed all
the summer in mowing the grass in different parts. The Duke has
wild beasts here, and I saw an ostrich walking in the lawn near
the house. It is incredible how fine a place this is made, from
being the most disagreeable and uncultivated, and the whole country
round it is in a state of great improvement. In the harvest time
the Duke carries on no improvements, but in the winter he has
commonly a great number of men at work, and all this is done by

64 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
his own directions, and shows the great taste his Royal Highness has,
as it is acknowledged by foreigners to exceed every thing, and has
cost an immense sum of money.
I came down from Bishopsgate two small miles to Old Windsor,
passing by the Duke of Roxborough's, and went to Mr. Bateman's
adjoyning to the Church yard ; this is a most charming box on the
Thames. Old Windsor is said to have been a town, and in William
the Conqueror's time there were houses in it, and they find
foundations of houses in the gardens and fields at a litle distance
from the river. And on digging near the Church yard they find
Mr.Bateman's. that formerly it was of much greater extent. Mr. Bateman's is
close to the river, a very small house of four rooms on a floor, but
enlarged by making two bow windows and a Gothick front ; nothing
can be imagined more elegant than the finishing and furnishing this
house, with painted and gilt ceilings, and the furniture is a collec
tion of curious things. He has made what is called a long gallery
of three squares ; there are books on one side in carved and gilt
cases, and on the other side they are seen in looking glass set in the
like work. The dimensions are three feet by nine feet. Behind the
house are offices, and at the back of them a room filled with all sorts
of Japan, China, and porcelane wares. Among them are two fine
Hetruscan vases, one of Nola, the other of Capua manufacture.
This opens to a grove, and there is a grove on each side of the
house ; beyond that, to the south, there is a lawn all along to the
river. The grove to the north extends to Mrs. Bateman's house to
the Church yard and parsonage house ; at the former is a sort of a
grotesque shell-work with a summer house over it, and beyond that
a Chinese alcove seat, near which there is a Chinese covered bridge
to an island, and another uncovered beyond it to another island.
This and the swans on the river make it a most delightful piece of
scenery. Behind this house, beyond the grove, is a meadow of
fourteen acres, with a walk round it of above half a mile, part of
which is close, in the wilderness way, and on one side to the road
an open summer house with a window looking to the road, and the

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 65
opening to the meadow is in the form of a Venetian window. At
one corner of this meadow is the farm house, with a small garden in
parterre and a greenhouse ; this is in the Chinese taste ; in the room
below they commonly breakfast in summer, above is the librai^y and
within it a museum, with cabinets of coins and of things relating to
natural history. From the field there is a passage across the high
road to a large flower and kitchen garden, with a pine house, from
which there is a fine view of Windsor Castle, London^ August I7th, 1754.
On the 15th I came from Old Windsor and pass'd near Cowper's
Hill, the subject of S' John Denham's poem, to Egham, where I
saw in the Church a monument to two wives and a child of Si^ John
Denham, Lord Chief Justice of Ireland. The statuary of the faces
seem to be very fine. There is also a remarkable monument in
which a person is represented in statuary as rising up out of his
tomb with a covering over part of his body, the rest being naked ;
under it is '' prseterita sperno," below are skeletons and heads, as
rising above are two Angels ; under them are these words, " Surge Egham.
a somnis." On it is this inscription : " Futura spero, ut a peccatis
in vita, sic a morte post vitam, ut secunda reddat primam et
ultimam in Christo resurrectionem ex omni parte perfectam."
Round the arch of the monument are these words : " Quia vita et
resurrectio est per Jesum Christum ad ajternam beatitudinem cum
Sanctis." On a stone in the Church is this inscription, over General
Honeywood's son by a gentlewoman he afterwards married : " To
tlie memory of Philip Wright, a young man of singular virtue, of
an unblemished character, an affectioliate child, a sincere friend,
religious without ostentation tho' young ; he lived much beloved,
and dyed much lamented, the 12th of August, 1739, in the 16th
year of his age. Quis desiderii sit pudor aut modus tam cari
capitis." The pillars of the Church are of the old Saxon kind.
From this place I went three miles to St. Anne's Hill, the top of
which seem'd to have been fortifyed ; it commands a very fine view,
CAMD. SOC. K VOL. II.

65 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
and a litle below the summit Lord Trevor has a house on the south
side of it; from this hill I had a view of Runny Mead, I had
formerly passed, in which King John met the Barons and sign'd
Magna Charta. At Chertsey, a mile farther, I saw in the Church
a monument to the memory of one Thompson, Secretary to Queen
Elizabeth, master of twelve languages and a great traveller. There
are no remains of the Monastery in which Henry 6th was buryed,
but his body was afterwards removed to AVindsor by Henry 7th
Weybridge. Two miles further, at Weybridge, L* Portmore has a good house,
and a fine improvement where the Wey and the Huning water fall
into the Thames, on which three rivers his Lordship's gardens and
fields are most beautifully situated. There is a fine lawn behind
the house, and plantations of cedars and other evergreens to the
right, which lead to another lawn and a summer house, and then
other plantations brought us to the Wye, over which there is a long
swivil bridge which turns with one hand ; on the other side of this
is a lawn, with a building to the left to which there is a litle spire
to make it appear like a Church, the building being hid by trees ;
beyond this is a handsome gateway, like a triumphal arch, of trellis
work, which appears in a better point of view when one is opposite
to it ; on the other hand, by a plantation of trees, one goes to a
farm house on the Thames ; the cornfields and meadows are bor
dered by a walk on the river which leads to the embouchure of the
Hunins, and is then the bounds of the farm, and on a mount near it
they are finishing a beautiful round Temple. Going round to the
same bridge again we returned and saw some hay reeks and a bam
in the way, which added to the beauty of the view. I went two
miles by Walton Bridge, which consists of a very large wooden
arch, and, if I mistake not, one on each side of it, and some stone
arches, and they are now building fifteen stone arches over the low
ground on the Surrey side, which is overflown. All this is the
undertaking of Mr. Dicker, who has a peculiar genius for building
bridges ; he has the toll of this bridge, and they say has lost money
by it, I went by Sunbury to Hampton Court, where another

DR, RICHARD POCOCKE. 6(
wooden bridge is built, which has a heavy look by reason of the
four houses built on it, two for gathering the toll, one for Mr.
Onslow, Speaker of the House of Commons, and the other for
another who had a property here. I went to see the palace so well
known to every one to -have been built by Cardinal Wolsey, and
improved by a court built by King Wflliam ; the two grand suites Hampton
of rooms are wainscoted with Dantzick oak, and are mostly hung °^^ '
with fine old tapistry, pictures of great persons over the doors and
chimneys, chiefly by Vansomner, Vandyke, and S' Peter Lilly, with
the marble tables between the windows and a great variety of old
China jars. One of the rooms is hung with satin, embroidered in
different colours by Queen Mary and her maids of honour. The
prospect over the Thames is very rich. The gallery, every one
knows, is hung with the famous Cartoons of Raphael, and one room
with Julius Caesar's triumphs, by . The Chapel, with a
fine arch in Gothic compartments gilt, was wainscoated with oak
and adorned with carvings by Queen Anne. From Hampton I
came the same day to London. Blackheath, Aug. I9th, 1754.
On the I left London and went to Black heath, to pay my
duty to the Earl of Chesterfield. His Lordship has a house at the
Park wall, to which he has built a fine room about 77 feet long and
twenty-two broad, with a large bow window at each end and one
in the middle ; that towards London commands a fine view of the
city. I went down to see the Chapel lately finished at Greenwich,
which is adorned with gilt carvings and is painted white, and there
is a gallery on each side for the officers; Sacred history painted
over the four doors to them, and 3 stucco reliefs in the semicircle
of the altar. The money which arises from showing this and the
hall is a fund for maintaining and teaching an hundred boys in the
hospital, to be apprenticed out to masters of ships or officers aboard
men-of-war. The north end of the west- side of the hospital was
built by King Charles II. as part of a royal palace, but, money

68 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
being deficient, it was set apart for an hospital for decayed seamen.
Lord Derwentwater's estate from £4,000 has risen to £10,000 a
year, so that they have 15,000 seamen in it. If the infirmary
was built it would hold 2,000, but they have not a sufficient sum
for that number. Each man has his closet and bed in it, and they
have such plenty every day of dinner that they lay it by for the
other meal, and I think they have as much small beer as they
please, and Is. a week pocket-money ; and though it is such a
delightfuU place, yet the confinement is irksome to persons who
have been used to rove about the world. The Dorick Colonade is
an alteration of S' Christopher Wren. The house of the ranger
of Greenwich Park, which is in the center towards the park, is the
design of Inigo Jones. Toward Charlton is a small house built by
the late Lord Pembroke, when Lord Herbert. It now belongs to
the Duke of Bolton. Lord Egmont has a good old house at the
pleasant village of Charlton, from which I descended to Woolwich,
which is a town a mile long, having the dock at one end, the
warren at the other, and the rope yard in the middle. In the dock
the largest man of war is on the stocks that ever was built in
England, and it is a size they cannot exceed, as they are obliged to
choose out men six feet high to be able with their arms to encom
pass the main yards which are necessary for a ship of that size.
The warren is the seminary for Engineers and the train of Artillery.
They consist of one regiment, of which the master of the Ordinance
is the colonel. There are several companies of matrosses, and the
48 cadets answer to the company of the grenadieres, and take place.
They are gentlemen's sons put in by the Master of the Ordinance, to
learn fortification, engineering, drawing, and military architecture,
and every thing to qualifie for a soldier and engineer. They are
promoted to be officers in this regiment, and their commissions
being signed by the king they rank as other officers, but formerly
they did not. They are from these also made engineers at three
shillings a day, and if sent on duty at five shillings a day and have
an additional pay, the under engineer at the upper at ;

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 69
and they may have commissions and be promoted in the army,
Thev have a day subsistence and arrears. A house
has been built for them, in which there are to be three beds and
six persons in a room, which is thought too strait, that it is
doubted whether they will be brought into it, tho' their lodging in
town is subject to many inconveniences, and then they are to have
common table at dinner. The officers inhabit the ends, each having
a room here. All canon are prov'd and laid up. Knole, Aug. 28th, 1754.
On the 20th I rode at the back of S'^ Gregory Page's, [which]
I had formerly seen, one of the best habitable houses in England,
with a gallery, &c., and a fine sett of paintings in an apartment
by . The park is very beautiful. I went by Eltham,
and about three miles farther to Crayfoot, to a house which is
building for M' Cleves, a pewterer on Cornhill, on the design of
Palladio, after which my Lord Westmoreland's house is built ; but
they say it is on a smaller scale, however, by taking in two of the
porticos into the house. The two side rooms are larger than his
Lordship's ; the staircase is taken out of one side of it. This has
a very bad effect on the outside, as have four ugly chimneys round
the dome; but the water of the Newel made serpentine, and the
lawn to it is very fine. This house is built by contract for £8,000,
and some thousands more has been laid out on this place. S"^ William
Calvert has a house below this on a fine high situation. I went by
this river to Orpington, where it rises from a very fine spring in a
meadow called Newell, from which it has its name, and running
into the Darent below Dartford, falls into the Thames near Erith.
I returned by Chislehurst to Blackheath.
From London I went to see fhe china and enamel manufactury
at York House at Battersea. This house was built by Cardinal
Wolsey, and belongs to the archbishops, who have let it out in
leases. I saw at Chelsea a house which the Moravians have fitted
up in a grand manner for their bishop and patriarch. Count Zin-
zendorf, who lives in it.

70

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Westram.

23rd, Passing through Lewisham where Dean Stanhope, minister
of this place, is buryed, I came to Bromley, where there is a hand
some college with a portico round the court, and a Chapel built,
with this inscription over the door: —
Deo et Ecclesise.
This College for twenty poore
Widows of Orthodox and Loyal
Clergymen anda Chaplain, was
given by John Warner, late Lord
Bishop of Rochester,
1666.
I was informed that this foundation is for the widows of beneficed
clergymen. They have twenty pounds a year, and the chaplain
has £50. At the Church I imagined I saw the original of the
compounded Gothick windows ; there are five or six in this manner,
so that by bringing a window-frame round this cir
cular part, and taking in either two or three long
windows, leaving open spaces between the round
window and the frame, a Gothick window is formed,
which in time was made with a greater number of
members and divisions. There is a nich in the west
side of the chancel, into which they have broke, and
the hollow of a skull appears only three inches from the surface.
This, they say, is the body of Bishop Vender. The Bishops of
Rochester have a country house very near the town. .1 went by
Hayes four miles to Keston, where the river Ravensford rises
which falls into the Thames at Deptford ; here I am told is a camp,
called Osesar's Camp. Seven miles more brought us to Westram.
From the hill over that valley I had a fine view into Surrey, which
comes very near to Westram, that place being only 6 or 7 miles
from Reygate to the north through the valley in which the river
Darent runs, taking that name after two or three brooks meet
together a few miles lower ; one rising above Westram and another
two miles above Valence, I shall have occasion to mention. Wes
tram is a small town ; John Frith, the martyr and confessor, was

aSK

DB. EICHAED POCOCKE. 71
born here, and the Hoadleys were of this place, who have given
two prelates to our countries. I came a mile to Valence, the house
of my worthy friend Capt° Denis, who went round the world in
the " Centurion " with Lord Anson, which place I shall have occa
sion to describe. On the 21st I went to Knole, the Duke of
Dorset's ; the entrance to the park is from Sevenoke. It is an
exceeding good old house, built round three courts ; it belonged to
the Archbishops of Canterbury, and was exchanged with Henry
8th. Two grand courts have been built since, the paper building
next to the garden having been built by the Archbishops, with the
Chapel adjoyning, and some say by Thomas a Becket. There are Quere, if not
a great number of apartments in the house, several of them, with a -^areham ?
small gallery or two, are finished with carved wainscoats of oak,
and fumish'd in the old way, and with old pictures. In one room
are pictures painted on board, of the great men in Queen Elizabeth's
time, collected I suppose by Earl Thomas. At the middle court is
a very grand apartment, consisting of gallery, drawing-room,
another large room, and two grand apartments with beds ; one
is called the King's Bedchamber, in which most of the moveables
are of silver, and there are some fine ebony cabinets, with reliefs on
one of them. In the gallery are pictures of most of the family from
Queen Elizabeth's time, by the best hands, and the arms and
alliances of each Earl to about King James's time in painted glass,
as the rest are in a gallery below, made out of a portico ; and in one
gallery is a picture on glass of the head of the house, with this
Inscription under it : Herbrannus Sackville.
Prsepotens Normjinnus,
Qui Angliam intravit
Cum Gulielmo Conquestore
MLX . . .
There is a garden behind the house, with a wilderness of large
oaks. The park is very fine ground, with a valley going round
part of it, and there is high ground on each side the valley ; the

72 THE TBAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
park is exceedingly well timbered with a great number of many
beautifull trees in it, and kept- in great order. From one heigth
there is a very rich prospect of the Weald of Kent ; we saw Tun
bridge and Mount Ephraim at Tunbridge Wells, the hills to the
west and over them a high hill, which I took, as some do, for the
Isle of Wight, and others for Portsdown. In a shelter'd situation
in the park, near the garden, they are making a honagon building ;
it is to be a sort of a cottage, where poultry of all kinds are to be
kept, in which the Dutchess delights, and there is a beautiful view
from it of one part of the park.
At Sevenoke Church I saw the monument of Farnaby, school
master here, who wrote the book of Rhetorick ; his descendant,
S'^ Thomas Farnaby, lives near. I saw also that of Lambord, who
pubHshed an account of Kent, called the " Perambulator." There
is some remarkable poetry in the Church.
A free school was founded here by S"" Wm. Sevenoke, L*
Mayor of London in 1418, and an almeshouse for 32 poor men and
women, which have been lately rebuilt in a very handsom manner
with the limestone they have near. . Mrs. Boswell was a bene
factress by giving exhibitions from it to a college in one of the
Universities. They have found fuller's-earth and marie near this
place. In 1450 John Cade killed S' Humphry Stafford and his
brother, and several gentlemen sent against him by Henry 6th. I
Otford. 'ws'it four miles to Otford, passing near Seal, which gave the title
to the Lords of Say and Seal. Otford is an old palace of the
Archbishop of Canterbury, magnificently rebuilt by Wareham, and
given to Henry 8th, or exchanged by Cranmer to avoid envy;
there were two hexagon towers, with a portico of entrance between,
and on one side of them are some remains of a grand gateway ;
then there is a court of large buildings beyond it, the ruins of
which remain ; the enclosure of the court seems to be very old, it
may be of the time of Thomas a Becket ; the other buildings are of
brick and window-cases of stone ; at some distance there are fine
springs rising between stone walls, which are called Thomas a

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 73
Becket's well, and here Offa, king of the Mercians, beat Ealthmund
in 773, and exempted Litchfield from any subjection to the See of
Canterbury, and made it an Archbishoprick, and in 1016 the Danes
were defeated here in a bloody battle. I went by Kemseng, the
Mother Church of Seal, to St. Clair, where Mr. Glanville, who
changed his name from Evelyn, has a good house of Inigo Jones's
design, and I came to Igtham, Mr. James's seat, within a mile of
Wrotham, this also was a house of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
The " Gazeteer " saies that Queen Elizabeth granted the honour of
Sevenoke to her kinsman Henry Cary, L'' Hunsdon, whose grand
son, the Earl of Dover, alienated it to Richard Sackville, Earl of
Dorset, but Knole was given to Henry 8th together with Otford,
and was granted by him or Queen Elizabeth to Earl Thomas, Lord
High Treasurer, Tunbridge Wells, Sept. 5th, 1754.
On the 28th of August I returned from Knole to Valence, belong
ing to Captain Denis, This place is situated on a litle stream which
falls into the river that is about a quarter of a mile from the place ;
there is a beautifull variety of rising ground, vales, and wood, and
the most is made of the water, which at present forms canals in one
v^le of the park, that are to be improved into a serpentine river, a
stream is carried from them into a wood opposite to the east front of
the house, and falls down from a couchant statue of Neptune
feet high, and coming on towards the end of the serpentine river
falls again in five breaks into a bason, from which it runs under^
ground before the front of the house and forms a large piece of Valence.
water on the other side of it, from which it is to fall into another
with an island of alders in it, and terminates with a head at the
park wall. On each side of the serpentine river first described is a
rising ground, that to the west is a gentle ascent to a heigth on
which there is a summer house that commands a fine prospect of the
country ; behind this the ground rises still higher, and opens a more
extensive view towards Wrotham; and beyond it from this hill
CAMD. SOC. L VOL. II.

74 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
there is a steep descent to the house covered with timber trees,
where it is work'd into winding slopes, and the statue of the gladiator
stands a litle elevated in the middle. In a word, the whole is a most
delightful spot of ground. From Valence I went a mile and half
by Brastell to Combe Bank, the seat of General Campbell, next
heir to the title of Earl of Argyle. The General is father of Lady
Aylesbury. He showed us his house and garden with great polite
ness. The house is in the Palladian style, with a square turret for
closets at each corner. It is highly finished and furnished with fine
pictures and ancient busts, some of which are of bronze, and one
with a Greek inscription on it. The situation is bold; there is a
fine green terrace walk the whole length, over a hanging ground,
which is planted with shrubs, mostly of the flowering kind. There
Comebank. is a lawn on each side^ of the house, and beautiful plantations of a
great variety of the most curious evergreens. To the north-west
is a descent formed into a kind of grove, through which you see a
large piece of water, that appears like a serpentine river. The most
curious trees are the tulip tree, which bears a htle tulip strip'd in
different colours, and not all white, as the common tulip tree, the
deciduous cedar, or the cedar that drops its leaves and is not ever
green, the Newfoundland pine, and some others that are very curious
of that family.
I went also to see Squerries belonging to Mr. Ward, whose
grandfather, S'' John Ward, was Lord Mayor of London. There
is a very good house flnished by the Earl of Jerzey, who sold it to
this family ; in it is a flne piece of Guide, David with Gofiah's
head. There is a piece of water near the house which through
some wood appears like a large river, and a stream rises from it.
On one side of the park there is a rivlet, which is in part kept up
in ponds ; but the great beauty of the place is the wood through
which a broad riding is cut and planted with firrs, that maybe
about a mile along. There are several other rideings through the
wood, and a high turret built in it which commands a fine view, in
which there is a handsome room. From the rising ground near

DB. EICHARD POCOCKE. 75
one sees all the hills towards Reygate, Box Hill, and Mole Hill, near
Dorking, the hills towards Farnham, Petersfield, the downs of
Sussex, and near as far as Portsmouth, having to the south such a
prospect of the Wealds of Kent as I saw from Knole Park. The
commons called Chartes are sandy and gravelly, and there is stone
all about this country with shells in it.
Tunbridge has its name from the River Thone, and there are
four other streams, it is said, that have bridges over them here, and
fall into the Medway. There are ruins here of a large castle, built
by Richard Earl of Clare, natural son of King Richard the First. Tunbridge.
Richard de Clare, Earl of Hartford and Gloucester in the time of
King Henry the III., built a church and founded a priory here.
The castle is a large enclosure, with a strong building on one side,
to which there are towers at each corner, and the windows are of
the large Gothick kind. There is a good Latin school here, founded
by S'^ Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor of London in the time of Queen
Elizabeth. The town is ill built, but it is a great thorough fare to
Tunbridge Wells, and now thrives on the account of the navigation
of the Medway which goes above Penshurst. Tunbridge Wells is
five measured miles from this place. The waters are in a vale
between the hills, called Mount Zion, to the south, and on the other
side Mount Ephraim and Mount Pleasant, on which there are good
houses for lodgers, with courts before them and gardens behind,
both planted with trees, few of the houses being contiguous, so that
it appears as a delightful village full of good houses, the situation
being romantic in the middle of a wild heathy country, and there
are rocks on some of the hills which have a beautiful effect. The
waters are chalybeat, and I have be^ told there is something of
vitriol in them ; it is said they are rather heavy, but they are good
in cold chronical distempers, weak nerves, and bad digestions,
operating by perspiration and urine. It is a good air, and they are
well supplied with all sorts of provisions, particularly with sea fish,
and in the season with wheatears from the Sussex downs. The
season for the waters is June, July, and August. Just beyond the

76 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
hill to the west is a pleasant valley, beautifyed with rocks and wood
on each side; this leads to what they call the rocks on the south
side, which are towards the top of the hill, are perpendicular, and
about twenty feet high, with large cracks in them through which
one may pass ; there is a walk on them, and seats under the wood,
some of which grows, out of the rocks, and there is an extensive;
prospect along this valley into Sussex towards Grinstead, one side
of the valley on which the rocks are being in that county, which is
divided from Kent by the rivlet that runs through Tunbridge Wells.
This is a great place of resort from Tunbridge Wells in a morning,
and here they often breakfast. About Tunbridge was the forest of
Ashdown, now called the South Frith.
From the wells I went four miles near that stream to Groom
Bridge, where there is a Chapel in the parish of Spelshurst with
this inscription on it :
D. 0. M.
Ob Eelicissimum Caroli Principis ex Hispaniis
Eeditum, sacellum Hoc D.D. 1625 LP.
It was built by one of the family of the Packers, who had a house
near, and their monuments are in the Chapel. The estate is now to
be sold under the title of the descendants of the co-heiresses of this
family. Here was a considerable village, with several good houses
in it, now running to ruin. Three miles further brought us to
Wydiham, the burial place of the family of the Duke of Dorset,
where the bodies are deposited in leaden coffins in a fine vault under
a Chapel, in which there is a monument of couchant statues of white
marble to the memory of Earl Richard. A quarter of a mile from
it, over the rivlet, are the foundations of the house of Buckhurst,
Buckhurst. where the family resided before they acquired Knole. A handsome
gatehouse is remaining, with the arms of the family on it, and some
remains of a building before it with a bow window at the end, which
was probably some office, now converted into a farm house. Half a
mile the other way, over anothei; rivlet, is a lodge called Stoneland,
with fine ground about it well planted. Here the duke commonly

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 77
resides during the month of August. It was a purchase of the
family of by . The duke has built one good
room, in which is the picture of the obelisk on the Boyn, presented
to his grace as it was erected under his first government in Ireland,
from which the copper plate is taken. Here is a chalybeat water,
not reckoned quite so strong as those of Tunbridge Wells. About
a rnile to the west I saw the ruins of Highbrook, an ancient seat
of the Earls of Thanet, and about 4 miles off L'^ Abergavenny
resides. To the south-west is the forest of Ashdown, adjoyning
to this parish ; it is all granted away without any rent, and is
now entirely free in the several proprietors. Four miles brings
into the road from Lewes to London, and four more to East Grin-
sted, nearer to London in that road, being 29 measured miles
from it — a town I have formerly seen ; it has belong'd to the Duke
of Dorset's family ever since the time of Edward III, The roads
here are almost impassible in winter, and cannot be mended with the
stone, which is soft and sandy, so that it immediatly wears and washes
away, and the iron works and hop yards make wood so scarce that
they will not afford it to mend the roads. Canterbury, Sept. 10th, 1754.-
I left Tunbridge Wells on the 5th, and came by Woodgate, ten
miles to a small town called Yalden on the river where a freestone
vein begins, and further there there is a gravel, then sand, and the
chalk hills, and which continue to Maidstone ; we passed over the
hill beyond Hunton, but could find no petrifications among the
stones. Maidstone is pleasantly situated on the Medway, and is a
town of considerable trade on account of its navigation, as hops and
other produce of the country are sent by water to London ; and
the shops are well stored with all sorts of goods from the capital,
they have also a great manufacture of thread brought over by the Maidstone.
Flemings. There is a large timber-yard here for the supply of
Chatham Dock. This place is thought to be the Vagniala of
Antonine and was called in British Caerinegvead. The Archbishops

78 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
had a house here which is now alienated, it is near the collegiate
church, which together with the college was founded by Arch
bishop Courtney, who as I understood had prepared his tomb in this
church, probably that to the south of the altar with niches behind it,
but the king ordered his body to be buryed in the Cathedral of
Canterbury. There is a remarkable monument of the Beals in
this church. The chantry founded by Archbishop Arundel is a
mean building and is now a free-school, I was told the old parish
church is turned into an assembly room. On the other side of this
river is a church and some ruins, which I was informed was a
convent, but possibly it might be the college or hospital founded by
Archbishop Boniface. This town held out for King Charles ; and
General Fairfax stormed it before he could take it. The small
river Len rises near Lenham and falls into the Medway here ; there
are some paper mills on it, and one of them is esteemed the finest in
England. From Maidstone I went to Mr. Chamneys
in the parish of Boxley, a litle beyond it is Peiienden Heath, com
monly called Here there is a small wooden building which
is the county house, where the elections are opened and the candi
dates named, when they adjourn to Maidstone. This place is
famous for a meeting of William Rufus and Odo, Earl of Kent, to
settle some differences, and history mentions that a Bishop of Win
chester by reason of his great age came in a carriage drawn by
horses. Very near this heath is the scite of Boxley Abbey, on
Boxley Abbey, which a large house is built. The Abbey was founded in 1145 by
William de Ipre, a Fleming, Earl of Kent, the barn belonging to it
remains, roofed with chesnut, 'tis said near 400 years. This is a
very useful wood, but they ^ay that it looks fair without when it is
become rotten within, and goes all at once. This abbey was famous
for a rhood which was burn't at Paul's Cross in London. I was
told that there is a memorial on a stone here that Sandys the
traveller repaired this place and beautifyed the gardens, but omitted
to see it. On the side of the hill and near the turnpike road from
Maidstone to London by Rochester is what they call Keith Coty

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 79
House, which consists of four such stones as the Grey Weathers,
two standing up on end at about ten feet distance, and one across in
the middle, and a large stone resting on them all about ten feet every
way, except that the large one is fifteen one way. It is said to be the
burial-place of Caligeru, a British general who was slain in battle
near this place.'' I was told that in a field below there were remains
of such another monument, but could not be informed whether it is
the place call'd Horseted, where Horsa the Saxon general was
buryed. A litle above this is a fine prospect of the beautiful vale
and of the neighbouring hills. A mile farther on the Medway is
Aylesford, pleasantly situated, which gives title to a lord of the Aylesford.
Finch family, who has a seat at the Old Priory below the town,
founded by Radulphus Friburn under the patronage of Ri : Lord
Grey of Codnore with whom he return'd from the Holy war. On
the south side of the river the manors of Preston and Milhall were
given by Hen. I. to the church of Canterbury. The north side
where the church stands on an eminence is an ancient demesne,
granted away by the crown and came to the Sidleys, and in 1607
S"^ William built the bridge and an hospital here. There is a fine
monument of the Culpepers in this church, and if I mistake not
Lord Aylesford came to the estate and house here by marrying an
heiress of that family. Sir Paul Rycaut's monument also is in the
chancel, whose" father was a Fleming, and if I mistake not agent to
Lord Aylesford's family. He went Secretary to Constantinople
with Lord Winchelsea, became consul at Smyrna, then was Secre
tary to Lord Clarendon in Ireland, and afterwards Resident at
Hamburgh to the Free Cities. Here Guortimer the Britain beat
Hengist with his Saxons, who went and recruited at the Isle of
Thanet. Two miles to the west is Leybourn, an old castle in ruins ;
and a mile farther at the town of West Mailing are remains of a
nunnery, with fine Saxon towers in the front; it was founded by a
• It is no other than a cromlech, and certainly antienter than the time of Caligem
— that monuments are call'd both in Wales and Cornwall coits or quoits from the
upper stone resembling a coit.—Note in MS.

80 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Bishop of Rochester in the ] 1th century, and suffered by fire in the
East Mailing, time of Richard the first. A mile to the east is East Mailing,
where S"^ Roger Twisden has a seat in a most beautiful park, in
which two rivlets meet, that are made into serpentine rivers ; one
falls down in a fine cascade, and a high island is forming below the
meeting of the rivers, which is covered with evergreens and flower
ing shrubs. The lawn and plantations are beautifully disposed, and
it is altogether a most chearful spot.
From Mr. Chamneys I went near the Len five miles, through a
sandy country; here they dig out the white sand for glass houses
and other uses, making large caves under ground. We came to
Leeds Castle, built by the Crevequers. It is said there was an
Leeds Castle. Abbey and Priory here. They have a tradition that Edward the
Second's Queen was denyed entrance by Lord Boddlesmere, and
that the king besieged the castle, and hung up the Lord who had
been so impolite to his consort. The Dutch prisoners were kept
here in King Charles the Second's time, and were starved by the
person who contracted to supply them ; on which they set fire to
the castle, and old Lady Culpeper came and set open the castle
gates, and 'tis said that of 1500 there went out no more than 80.
This estate came to Lord Fairfax's family by marriage with an
heiress of Lord Culpeper's. This Lord has now a great estate in
Virginia where he lives, and has given -up this estate to a younger
brother after the death of Captain Fairfax, elder than the present
proprietor, who was a man of great genius, especially in the
mechanick way, and with his own hands brought optick glasses to
greater perfection than have been known. The park is very fine
ground, having a great command of water from the Len, and is
beautifully adorned with wood and improved at great expence by
the present owner. The castle is moated round, and there are two
drawbridges to the strong part, which is about three quarters of a
circle in its form, with fine vaults under it. The dwelling-house
joyns to it. This family are descendants of General Fairfax. We
went on four or five miles and passed by Mr. Best's estate near

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 81
Lenham, and a litle to the right of that small town ; it is thought
by Cambden to be the old Durolenum, which others would place at
Bapchild between Sitingbourne and Ospring, near Milton. There
is a monument in the church of Robert Thompson, Esq., men
tioned as grandson of Mary Honeywood, wife of Richard Honeywood Lenham.
of Charing, who at her decease had 367 children lawfully descended
from her, sixteen being of her own body, 114 grandchildren, 228
in the third generation, and nine in the fourth. I saw Broughton,
which was the estate of the famous S'^ Thomas Wotten, in the time
of Hen. VIII, and Edw^ VI. and Queen Elizabeth ; Plukley, S-^
Edward Dering's fine old house, very beautifully situated on an
eminence ; Litle Chart, a large house building by Mr. Darrel, the
first Roman Catholick of his family of late years. It is built of
brick with ornaments of a white chalky freestone, from France.
There are large offices to it, A litle further is Hothfield, the Earl
of Thanet's. This young nobleman was advised by his father not
to enter into any opposition to the Government, nor to be too severe
in relation to the game, in both which respects he acknowledged
himself to be in the wrong ; and his son has shown his filial piety to
the memory of his father. I came to Ashford, a small town near
the Stour, which is said to have its name from a rivlet called the
Eshow, on which it stands. In the Church are two very fine
monuments of the Smiths, Baronets, and a third, which is very
handsome. This family were made Viscounts of Ireland. The
first monument is of that gentleman who farmed the Customs in
Queen Elizabeth's time ; the next is of his son. Receiver of the
Dutchy of Cornwal of the revenues of Prince Charles, afterwards
King Charles the First. They consist; of a cornish, supported with
pillars and adorned with very fine reliefs of foliage, &c., especially
the first ;' the third, if I mistake not, is his grandson, and I believe
father of the first Lord. The descendant of this family, Lord
Strangford, is Dean of Derry in Ireland. His Lordship and Lord
Blayney in that kingdom are the only Lords who have gone into
Orders in the three Kingdoms since the Reformation, after they
CAMD. SOC. M VOL. II.

82 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
came to the title of Peers. I was shown some old monuments,
which I suppose are of the Baronet family of Fogg ; one of them,
S'^ Robert, is said to be the founder of the Church, and S"^ John
Fogg, Comptroller of the Household to Edward IV., founded a
College here for a Prebendary, Priests, and Choristers. A monu
ment also is mentioned near 400 years old, of a Countess of Athol.
Here was also a perpetual Charity. From this place I went three
miles to the north-west to Eastwell, the seat of Lord Winchelsea.
It is a large old house of indifferent structure, on the east side of the
park. On the south side is the parish church. This estate descended
through several hands to Mr. Colepeper, who married his daughter
to S' Thomas Moyle, the gentleman who built the greatest part of
the present house, and it came to the family of the Earl of Win
chelsea and Nottingham by marrying that Baronet's daughter.
Part of the genealogy of this family is cut on an old monument of
the Moyles. Near it is a tomb in ruins of Moile Finch, stil'd Eques
Auratus, and of his Lady with their couchant statues, and the
names of their children round ; eight pillars supported a canopy,
which is now all down. The strong lines of the old lady's face are
a very fine piece of statuary. In another part is a small monument
to Heneage Finch, the great lawyer, who, I suppose, writ the
famous treatise call'd Finches Law. The Park is very fine ground,
consisting chiefly of a long hill on which there is a wood cut into
eight ridings, and there are fine prospects from the hill. I went
three miles to Wye, a poor town pleasantly situated on the Stour,
and barges come up to it. Archbishop Kemp founded a Collegiate
Church here. The College built round a Court is turned into a
school There is a monument in the Chancel to the memory of
Lady Juana Thornhill, daughter of S'' Bevil Granville, who was
killed at the Battle of Lansdown, and sister of the Earl of Bath,
and wife of Richard Thornhill, Esq'^% who raised a regiment for
King Charles the First. This was a royal manner given by
William the Conqueror to Battel Abbey, and by Queen Elizabeth
to her cosin, Henry Cary, I^ord Hunsdon, and was conveyed by his

DB. EICHARD POCOCKE. 83
grandson. Lord Dover, to the Winchelsea family, who is styled
lord of the royal manor of Wye, and a litle beyond the Church is
the manor house. Edward 2* before his coronation kept his
Christmas at this house. Sandwich, Septr. Ilth,.1754.
Following the course of the Stoure from Wye, we passed by a
handsome seat of Mr. Knight at Gilmersham, whose park extends
either to Eastwell Park or very near it, and at Chilham a fine old
round castle, with a mansion house near it, belonging to Mr. Cole-
brook, and was, in the time of King Charles the First, built by S'
Dudley Diggs, Master of the Rolls, and the architect Inigo Jones. It
is a fine situation, on a high ground ; the name of this place is thought
to be a corruption fi-om Julham, and there is a tradition that Julius Gilmersham.
Csesar encaanped here on his second expedition into Britain, tho' I
could get no information of any entrenchment. On the east side of Chilham.
the river is a bank, call'd Jul-Laber; it is on the foot of an hill over
a chalk pit, the digging of which has destroyed part of it ; the bank
is about ten yards wide, fifty-six long, and it may be fifteen high,
and appears to be a work of art. It is thought to be the tomb of
Laberius Drusus, the Tribune; who was slain by the Britains.
After I left this place I was informed that there is an extraordinary
hollow ground, in a wood near the house, in a circular form, which
it is thought may be some remains of antiquity. The Kings of Kent
resided here. Two miles further, at Chartham, they found in 1668,
in sinking a well, some bones and four teeth of an elephant, sup
posed to have been one of the Roman elephants, which I was told
are in a gentleman's house in that parish. I came to Canterbury,
which stands likewise on the Stour, and is about three miles in cir
cumference ; it is the ancient Durovernum, and is said to have been
built 900 years before Christ, and was the capital of the Kings of
Kent till King Ethelbert gave it to Austin, when he was made
Archbishop of the English nation. There are remains of a citadel
and a mount or keep in it, and near it of a castle, all at the west

84 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
end of the town. The castle was built after the Conquest. The
walls this way appear, part of them, to be Roman, as well as a gate
or two. They are built on a rampart, defended by a deep ditch.*
The old town seems to have extended to about the High Street and
Canterbury. Peter's Street. And when Canterbury was given to St. Austin, it
is probable they built the Cathedral and the houses about it, for the
Church and a Convent near it on this ground without the city,
which they enclos'd with a wall — that is built, if I mistake not, on
level ground — for almost all to the east of these streets is Church
land, and when this addition was made to the city it is probable
that they destroyed the old city wall to the east and only built a
slight one between the city and Church land, which remains in part
with the gates that lead to the Close that are kept shut at night.
Some mention that King Lucius began to build a Church here. It
is certain there was a Church built and consecrated by Austin,
which, in 1011, was burnt by the Danes, and King Canute repaired
it. In 1043 it again suffered by fire. But William the First
settling Lanfrank in the See, he began to build a Church, which
was finished by Corboyl, upon the arches which are now seen, part
of which is the French Church under the choir. This Church was
burnt again in 1174, and was begun to be rebuilt again in King
Stephen's time, much of the old Church remaining towards the
foundation, which is visible, being the old Saxon architecture, and
the cross isles on the outside are of that kind, they being probably
damaged by the fire within, and were repaired in the Gothick style.
St. Anselm's Chappel is visibly very old, and I thought that possibly
it might be the remains of some additions made to the oldest Church
of all. The four towers are visibly very old, as likewise the two
which are on each side of the most eastern building called the Crown.
I apprehend the old Church ended at these two towers, this crown
seeming to be a new buUding, and the arches under it are plainly of
a different architecture from the others, and much finer and lighter,
¦ I was informed that S"' Thomas More's head is deposited in St. Dunstan's, near
iCanterbnry, in the family vault of the Ropers. — Note in MS,

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 85
so that I imagine the old Church extended from the end of the choir
to the crown ; and Gervais's saying the whole Church was destroyed
must be understood of the inside of it and of the inside pillars, which
seem all to be new. The old tower at the west end I take to be an old
belfery of Lanfranc's time, built, as was the ancient custom, at some
distance from the Church. If I mistake not, the part of the Church
west of the choir was finished in the time of Henry VII. The altar
piece and the choir have of late years been very improperly adorned
with wainscoat of Roman architecture. The mosaic remains that
was near the shrine of Thomas a Becket. There is a fine bronze
monument over the Black Prince, and couchant statues over the
bodies of Henry • and his Queen. The court on the north side
of the Church is mostly inhabited by the Dean and the twelve Pre
bendary's, three of which are in the gift of the Archbishop, the rest
in the Crown. The Archbishop's palace was at the west end of it
and of the cloysters, and was destroy'd in the time of the Rebellion.
The cloysters are very fine. One side is old, with a grand seat to
every four and old cisterns opposite to tho refectory door. The chapter
house is a long building like a Chapel, and is used as such for early
prayers. There is some very old building about this part, which is
supposed to be destined for strangers, and they have a library be
longing to the Church. The south court is mostly inhabited by
gentlemen. In this quarter of the town, towards Peter's Gate, was
a convent, and the gate remains of fine squared flints. There was
another on the other side of the street in that part which is made an
island by the river, and a third towards the castle, if I mistake not
the Dominicans, the others being the Black and Grey Fryars, But
the great glory of the monastick state here was the Abbey of Austin,
'tho the devotion to that saint was ecclipsed by the religion that was
paid to the shrine of Thomas k Becket. This Monastery was founded
by King Ethelbert. The west end of the Church was adorned with
two fine towers of Saxon architecture ; under that to the north St.
Austin and his six successors were buryed, as it was not the custom
then to bury either in cities or within the churches. The grand

86 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
gateway is of a modern Gothick architecture and very fine. The
small Chapel of St. Pancras at the south-east corner of the enclosure
of the Convent, said to te old, has no marks of antiquity in the
building, 'tho mentioned as before Austin's time, and said to have
been King Ethelbert's temple when a i)agan. St. Martin's parish
Church to the south-east of this was built by Bertha, of the blood
royal of the Franks and wife of Ethelbert. The east end of it is of
Roman brick, not very well put together. But there is a very
ancient font in it, made large as for dipping; the upper part is
adorned with reliefs of arches intersecting each other, and the lower
part with reliefs of circular knots, the whole font being round and
of the .same size from top to bottom. There are thirteen parish
Churches in Canterbury ; one of them, I think at Peter's Gate, is a
remarkable long narrow Church built on the town wall. There is
a large old^wooden house, which was the Inn mentioned by
Chaucer in his Canterbury Tales, to which the pilgrims came who
resorted here out of devotion to the famous shrine. There is a great
colony of Walloon Protestants, driven out of Artois and other parts
of Flanders in Queen Elizabeth's time, and of French who came in
the time of Louis XIV. The former brought the silk manufacture
here ; they now make it in great perfection to a guinea a yard, both
plain and flowered, and it is thought there are near 3,000 of these
people in the city. It is a great hop country all round this place.
On the 10th I left Canterbury, crossed into the Isle of Thanet,
Margate. and in seventeen miles from this city came to Margate. I saw
some old buildings, before I came to the town, which I was told
was a Priory. This is a fishing town, and is of late much resorted
to by company to drink the sea water, as well as to bathe ; for the
latter they have the conveniency of cover'd carriages, at the end of
which there is a covering that lets down with hoops, so that people
can go down a ladder into the water and are not seen, and those
who please, may jump in and swim. In the way to Margate we
saw Reculver, in the Isle of Shepey, which is remarkable for two
steeples to the Church. It is the antient . It is

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 87
mentioned that the Emperor Severus, about 205, built a castle at
this place, that Ethelbert^ King of Kent, had a palace here, and
that some ruins of the enclosure are visible ; and that 200 years
after a Monastery was founded, given by King Eadred with the
Manor to the Church of Canterbury. 'Tis said that the fishermen,
in drudging for oysters, have met with ships' cisterns, and build
ings supposed to be Roman, as well as Roman coins, bracelets, and
rings. It was a Collegiate Church. A great quantity of fennel
grows about these parts. I went three miles to the North Fore
land, where there is a handsom light-house, built of brick, and
seems to be the style of Inigo Jones. From this place I went
three miles to Ramsgate, a town about a mile in circumference. Ramsgate.
They are making an harbour at great expence ; the outside of the
piers is of hewn stone of the Isle of Purbeck ; they find that lime,
made of cockle-shells, is the strongest of all, for which there is a
patent, and they make it near the mouth of the Thames. The
first plan has been alter'd which made the opening in the middle, it
is now to be more to the south, and the design is contracted on the
south side, tho' they had advanced considerably in it, according to
the first design ; but they say the ground is shallow that way, and
that therefore it would be of litle use, and they would have a
greater space to clear out, as they apprehend the harbour will fill
from the sea. The great use of this harbour is for merchant ships
of 200 tuns and under, which usually lay in the Downs and are
drove from their anchors, not only, with great danger to themselves,
hilt fall foul of men of war and other light ships that could ride in
the Downs, and when they meet, either unmoor or slip their anchors
and shift for themselves, or have their cables destroyed, and it may
be their ships damag'd. The revenue, if I mistake not, for carry
ing on this work, arises from the vessels that anchor here, and from
six per cent, annuities by Act of Parliament.

Dover, Sept. 12, 1754.
From Ramsgate I went on eight miles to Sandwich, having a

The Isle Of

88 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
broad gravelly beach to the left most part of the way, and con
sequently the sea must sometimes overflow in some degree. Near
Sandwich we passed by a house called Stonar, where they say
there was formerly a town. We crossed it from the Isle of Thanet
by a ferry-boat to Sandwich. This Island is about ten miles long
and eight broad ; there are six parish Churches in it, and a Chapel,
Egbert, the eighth King of Kent, granted eight plough lands,
which was a third part of the Island, to Lady Domnena, whom it is
said he had greatly injured. She built a Nunnery here for seventy
Virgins. Mildred, who was canonized, was Prioress of it. I was
not informed where the Nunnery was; possibly it might be that
building I mentioned near Margate, tho' it had formerly been much
damaged, 'tis said, and even destroyed by the Danes, who harassed
Thanet. this Isle in such a manner that it did not recover it self till the
time of the Normans. The Tuftons, who were Baronets, are Earls
of Thanet. This Island, with the help of sea-weed and other
manure, is very fruitful. They plough and manure and sow
barley, then wheat, and then beans, and lastly oats, and then let the
ground lie still a year, and the tillage much the same about Sand
wich. They have a particular way of cleaning the ground sown
with beans with a machine call'd a shim, with irons at such a
distance that two go between the rows and turn up the earth on
each side against the beans. They mow the barley and bind it up
in sheaves, and the field is raked clean with a horse-rake. The
west part of the Island towards the river is mostly marshy. The
Saxons first landed in this Island ; here Guortigern permitted them
to settle ; but Guortimore the Britain routed them at Lapis Tituli,
supposed to be Stonar above mentioned, and directed that his body
W^iped fleet, should be buryed here. And at Wipped fleet Hengist beat the
Britains. Austin the monk landed in this Island, as well as Lewis
of France, when called over by the Barons against King John.
They are esteemed as good fishermen as well as husbandmen, all
over this Island. The South foreland is the head of land to the
south of Ramsgate, and it is probable that the whole point between

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 89
the North and South foreland is the Promontory called Cantium by
Ptolemy. Sandwich is pleasantly situated on the river, and is
about a mile in length. The Stoure, when it comes to Thanet,
divides into two parts ; that which runs to the north is called
Inlade, and that which runs to the south-east, and passes by Sand
wich, is called Want sume. The town of Sandwich was defended
on the side of the river, and to the gate at each end by a wall aiid
towers, and at the east end by a large tower called the Bulwark,
which is now in ruins. The other parts of the town are fortyfied
only by a strong rampart, the town not being above a quarter of a
mile broad. There are a great number of old houses in it, mostly Sandwich.
built with wooden frames, and a fine stream runs through the town.
It rose out of the ruins of Rutupiae. The harbour is now bad,
being cho-aked up with sands. And a ship of Paul the 4*^ sunk
here, has hurt the harbour, I suppose at the time of the Spanish
invasion, so that large ships cannot come up to the quay. This
town suffered much by the Danes, and here their King Canute slit
the noses and cut off the hands of the English hostages, which were
sent to his father, Swaine. But he afterwards gave this town to
Christ Church, in Canterbury. In 1217 Lewis of France burnt it,
and it underwent the same fate from the French in 1457, Edward
the Third having, by exchange, re-unlted it to the Crown. The
Wool Staple was removed to this place from Queenborough by
Richard II. And in Queen Elizabeth's time some Dutch and
Walloons set up a manufacture of cloth, which is now lost. The
chief support of the town is an export of malt, and an import of
wine and other forreign commodities for the use of Canterbury
and other neighbouring towns. They* also send a great quantity
of garden seeds and carrots to London. S"" Roger Man wood, Chief
Baron of the Exchequer, founded a free school here on the spot
of the Carmelite Convent, with an endowment of two Scholars
to Lincoln College, in Oxford. There are three parish Churches
in the town ; that of St. Clement's, at the east end of it, is a
very old Saxon building, probably erected soon after the town
CAMD. SOC. N VOL. IL

90 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
was first built. There are several fine old vaults in the town. A
mile to the north west of Sandwich is a ruin called Richborough,
Rutupise. which is the remains of the ancient Rutuplse, where the Romans
often landed. The legion called Secunda Augusta, which was
brought out of Germany by the Emperor Claudius to Isca Sllarum,
now called Caer Leon In Wales, was removed to this place when the
Saxon pyrates infested the coasts, and they had a Prsepositus here
under the Count of the Saxon shore. Clemens Maximus had this
office, who in Britain was proclaimed Emperor by the army, put
the Emperor Gratian to death, and was afterwards killed by Theo
dosius at Aquileia. Ethelbert, King of Kent, resided here, and
often confer'd with Austin, who was then at Stonar. It is said that
the Danes destroyed this city. There are great remains of a square
enclosure of Roman work, as I judge, above half a mile in circum
ference on the hanging ground over the river, and it is probable
either that the sea came up to the city or near it, or that the river
was more navigable than it is at present up to the town. In a
rising ground to the south-west of this enclosure is an hollow which
might be an Amphitheater ; they have found many Roman coins
and utensils here, and there is an exact account of all these antiquities
in Archdeacon Battely's book entitled '' Antiqultatus Rutupinse,"
published by his nephew Mr. Battely, student of Christ Church.
It is supposed Juvenal meant this place as famous for oysters by
this expression, — Ehutnpinove sedita fundo
ostrea.
It Is mentioned that there were two Roman tumuli before the gates
of Sandwich, and on the south side, on the shore, six large broad
Celtic tumuli. I saw nothing of the former, nor could I discern any
thing like these except some heaps on the shore, which seemed to
me to be raised by the wind and sea. About two miles to the south
west of the town is a village on a fine low hill, called Woodens-
borough, but commonly Winsborough, conjectured to be a place of
worship of the God Woden.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 91
On the 11th I left Sandwich, and going about three, miles in the
road to Deal, I went out of it a mile to the south near to Betts-
hanger, where there Is a very small and slight entrenchment called
Csesar's Camp, of an irregular figure, about three hundred paces
round ; but if it was for any military use It could be only a slight
entrenchment, thrown up for a night round the Emperor's tent and
baggage, and might be the first day's march from the shore. Two
miles further towards Deal is an old ruined Chapel at a farm house
called Cottington, which anciently belonged to the Lords of that
name. The east end of this building is semicircular. I went by Deal.
Old Deal, and in a mile from it came to New Deal, which is a
town chiefly supported by the . shipping that lye In rhe Downs.
Company also resort to this place to bathe. It Is an open sea, with
a high gravelly beach. There is a storehouse here for naval stores,
with a Clerk of the Cheque to give them out as occasion requires.
Here is a castle to defend this coast, and there is another a mile to
the south called Sandown. From Deal I saw plainly to Goodwin
Sands, which is between the North and South Forelands, runs
parallel with the shore for three leagues, at about a league or a
leaffue and a half distance. It was the estate of Goodwlnl Earl of
Kent, and afterwards given to the Abbey of S' Austin in Canter
bury. The land was defended against the sea by a wall, but an
Abbot neglecting the wall whilst he was building Tenterdon Steeple,
the sea broke In and overflowed the land. These sands are left dry
at low water. They break the force of the sea from the east, south,
and south west, and render the Downs a good harbour when those
winds blow ; but when the wind blows hard at south east, east
and by north, and east north east, the. ships are driven from their
anchors, either on these sands or into Sandwich Bay or to Ramsgate.
A litle beyond Deal are several hollow places in the shoar call'd
Romes work, and it is supposed that Csesar drew up his ships Into
these places, as it is conjectured that he landed between Deal and
Walmer Castle, for, coming to a part which, from his description,
answers to Dover, he came to a flat country and landed, and the

92

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

WalmerCastle.

shore at Walmer Castle Is the first flat land on this side Dover, and
a quarter of a mile on this side of Walmer Castle I saw the angle
of a rampart. It is a small part of two sides where they make an
angle close on the shoar, and it is thrown up in the Roman manner,
the sea having gain'd here and carried off the land. This, I make
no doubt, was Csesar's camp at his landing, and that the sea has
gained on it. Walmer Castle, with the other two, were built by
Henry VIII. It is In the hands of the Duke of Dorset as Lord
Warden of the Cinque Ports, where His Grace passes a few weeks
in the summer. These Castles- mostly consist of a round tower in
the middle and other turrets round them, with two stories, one
of them being under ground, and are defended by a deep fossee.
From this Castle we ascended up to the hills that form the cliffs
from this place to Dover, and came to Dover.

Eumney, Septr I3th, 1754.
Dover Castle is a bold situation over the sea cliffs, the circum
ference of the castle Is about three-quarters of a mile, and I believe
must contain more than thirty acres ; it extends to the cliffs. At a
litle distance from them is; the ancient Roman enclosure, a fossee and
a rampart with a wall built on it, now in ruins. Within this is a
very ancient church, which some say was built by Lucius, the first
Christian king ; in which there is a sepulchral inscription to an
Dover. Earl of Northampton, who was Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports
in 1614, and his body was removed to another place. I saw here
part of a sepulchral inscription with these words on it —
Petrus de Creone. Orate pro anima ejus.
At the west end of the church is the famous tower of Roman archi
tecture, except a litle of the top of it, in which the Roman brick is
seen, as usual, to bind the building, which I have formerly described,
and there is a print of it in Montfaucon's antiquities. On the oppo
site hills on the other side of Dover are some ruins, which they say
are the remains of such another tower, this is called Bredenstone,

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 93
and by the common people the Devil's Drop. The old part of the
castle is said to have been begun by Julius Csesar and finished by
Claudius. The well is 360 feet deep, it is, I am informed, round,
and Is said to be cased all the way down with freestone : there is a
tradition also that this was the work of Julius Csesar. In the part
of the castle between this and the cliff In this part Is that famous
brass canon which was presented by the States of Utrecht to Queen
Elizabeth ; it is said to be one of the longest in the world, that is 22
feet in length. It takes fifteen pounds of powder to load it, and it is
said will carry a ball seven miles. Under these cliffs which are about
200 feet high are very fine extensive vaults cut out of the chalk,
which are made use of for wine cellars. The new part of the castle
to the west consists chiefly of a very large square building, hke the
Tower of London, and was probably built soon after the Conquest.
There are two large rooms on each floor, to which they go by dif
ferent staircases of stone ; it consists of two stories besides the ground
floor, which serves for cellars. Here King Charles the first con-
sumated his marriage with the Princess of France, and here also King
Charles the Second had that meeting with the beautiful Dutchess of
Orleans, his sister, which was so fatal to that Princess. Other
buildings here are the apartments for the officers and barracks for
foot soldiers when they are quartered here. The prisoners of war
have usually been kept in this castle. We descended to the town,
which chiefly consists of houses on the quay, the square, and one
narrow street above a mile long. The quays and harbour have
been greatly improved of late years, there being two large basins one
within another ; and the town it self is so much increased in build
ings since the late war. An old high fort situated among the
houses towards the entrance of the harbour is now of no use.
There is a large beach of gravel before the harbour almost every
way, which is a defence against any encroachments from the sea.
The chalky rocks hang almost over some of the houses and some
times tumble down and do mischief. There is a Saxon door to
the church of St. Maries towards the north end of the town, and

94 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
they found lately in digging near it an old hippocaust. The pipes
are in a room adjoyning to the church and I measured one fourteen
inches and a quarter long, six and a half square, with a hole in the
middle of the side two inches wide and three long. There are also
some large Roman bricks, made rough with lines, so as to bind
more securely, and some of them are made to fit into one another.
On one I saw these letters, libr. Near the square are some ruins,
if I mistake not, of a Friery. The great support of this place Is the
passage; to France, and, in time of war, prizes are often brought
into the harbour. Formerly no person could go out of the kingdom
at any other port, and this was looked on as the key to the kingdom,
on account of the strength of the castle. To the west of Dover Is a
beautifull amphitheater of hills, one of them is called Stependown ;
and among these hills lies St. Radlgund's Abbey. I was infor;ned
that at Barham down, between this and Canterbury, was Caesar's
Camp, and that there are some lines at Chartham down, which is, I
suppose, near the place of that name, through which I passed on
the Stoure, In the way to Folkstone I saw a high cliff a litle
beyond Dover, which, being the highest on the coast, is supposed to
be the cliff which is so finely describ'd by Shakespear, The road
in many places is so near the cliff as to make it an uneasy passage
to some travellors. I saw two barrows on the hill before we
descended to Folkstone, and passed near an old fortress called
Folksti»e. Castle hill, almost due north of that town. Folkstone is carlously
situated between two rising grounds and on the side of those hills,
and is the nearest land to France, opposite to that part which is
between Calais and BuUogne. The platform near the church com
mands a view of it, and one can distinguish houses and castles. In
the church is this epitaph over the mother of the famous Harvey
who found out the circulation of the blood :
A.D. 1606, Nov''. 8*, dyed in the 50''' year of her age Joan wife of Tho. Harvey
mother of seven sons and two daughters. A goodly harmless woman. A chast
loving wife. A charitable quiet Neighbour. A comfortable kindly Matron. A
prudent diligent House-wyfe. A careful tender-hearted mother. Dear to her

DR. EICHARD POCOCKE, 95
Husband. Reverensed of her Children. Belover of her Neighbours. Elect of God.
Whose Soul rest in Heaven. Her Body in this Grave. To her a happy advantage.
To Hers an unhappy Loss.
In the church yard are the§e remarkable verses on a tomb of the
date of 1688 : A house he hath is made of such good fashion
The tenant n'ere shall pay for reparation,
Ne will his landlord ever raise his rent
Nor turn him out of doors for no payment.
Erom chimney-money, too, this place is free
To such an house who wotdd not tenant be ?
The water that supplies the town is brought from a spring to the
west of the Castle hill. They have a notion that the hills to the
north that way have sunk, and aflarm that some people observe they
see more of a house behind the lower hills than they did thirty or
forty years agoe. About a mile from Folkstone we saw Sandgate
Castle, something in the style of those already described, only with
this difference — that it appears there was a remarkable trap door to
be let down at the entrance. We came in four miles to Hithe, a Hithe.
very poor town, but much improved within these seven years. In
a vault under the church are a great number of human bones and
skulls. Some of them appear to have been wounded, and it is sup
posed that they are the bones collected together of persons killed in
battle. This writing is in the vault relating to it.
I saw a gentleman who, with some others, was waiting in the
church porch in order to go up into the tower to take a view. At
that time the steeple fell down, and it was concluded by those who
knew they were gone to the church for that purpose that they were
all lost. The sea, as it is said, did come formerly very near the
town. About a mile above it is Salt Wood Castle. It is a large
enclosure, and has been a grand building. It belonged to the
Archbishop of Canterbury. Courtney enlarged the buildings very
much, and his arms are on the grand tower in the front. Near it
is an old building called Oiitenhanger, a seat of the famous Edward

96 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
Baron Poinlngs. Three miles farther is Limme Church, just over
the hanging ground, from which there is a descent down to the
ancient Portus Lemanus. There are great ruins of an enclosure,
probably of a citadel, on this descent. I could not well make out
the figure, but I have since been inform'd that it was judged to be
circular. 'Tis plainly a Roman work built of stone, with a binding
of brick at certain distances. It seems very probable, according to
the tradition of the country, that the river has alter'd its course,
and that it did run at the foot of this hill, and it may be by West
Hythe half a mile to the east, which might be the port when the
sea, leaving the land, did not come up so far as Portus Lemanus,
for the convenient navigation of ships ; and Hythe Is supposed to
have been a port when this was no longer proper for shipping.
They showed me a house on the side of the hill towards the top,
called the French house, which it is said had settled down some feet
in the memory of man, probably occasioned by a settlement on
some running of water under ground. There is an ancient Roman
military way from this place to Canterbury. Winchelsea, Septr. 14, 1754.
From Limme I came down to Romney Marsh, supposed to be
all the gift of the sea, both by its retiring and throwing up sand,
mud, and gravel. At what time the sea retired so as to make this
marsh we may conclude from the Saxon Annal, which mentions
that in 894 Apuldore was at the mouth of the river LImene, from
whicli it is concluded that Romney or at least Walland Marsh was
then sea, and if so those who would place Anderida at Newenden
infer that the sea 500 years before might come up to Newenden.
It is supposed to be the coijntry called Mera Werum by Ethelward.
It is surprising to observe how the sea is kept out by what they
call walls, which are mounds or ramparts of earth, that are made
with a gentle descent to the sea, and are secured with rods of wood
fixed down by small timber laid every way, and fasten'd with
strong stakes. This marsh is fourteen, some say twenty miles

DR, EICHARD POCOCKE, 97
long, eight broad, and contains between forty and fifty thousand
acres of land, and Is divided into certain levels, as that which Is
call'd Romney Marsh In particular is bounded one way by a wall
or dyke, which extends from Appledore to New Romney. This in
the map is call'd Rhee wall, where they have a tradition that
the river Rother did run probably after it left Lime. Another
is wall and marsh, and a third Is the New Level. I observ'd
a great quantity of marsh mallow grows about the dikes here.
There are two towns in the marsh and nineteen parishes, which
were made a corporation by Edward IV:, consisting of a bailiff,
twenty-four jurats, and the commonalty of Romney Marsh,- and they
can choose four justices every year, who hold courts for all causes.
To encourage people to settle here ' they have formerly been
exempted from paying subsidies, and the lords of the manners are-
entitled to the wrecks and waste. They sometimes find large trees
in the marsh, I suppose of oak, being as black as ebony, and the
timber is good for building when It Is dry ; and I have been
inform'd that no worm will enter wood that has laid any time Romney
under ground. I came to the town of New Romney, which was ^^'^^'i-
a considerable place about the time of the Conquest, having five
parish churches In it, and a Priory, and was divided into twelve
wards. The church is of Saxon architecture, and the tower, con
sisting of five stories, is very ancient ; to the north of it are
remains of old buildings, which I was informed was the old Priory,
and probably at that time "Old Romney, a mile off, Included this
place; for in the time of Edward 1st, on the 23d of November,
1334, there was such a storm, that the sea, which had before
retired, overflow'dthis country and dfestroyed many houses and
wind mills, and stoped up the mouth of the Rother, which from
that time took its course by Rye. The town has been decaying
ev?r since. Three miles further Is Lidd, a very small town with a
good church, but not a very ancient building. About half a mile
to the west of the town is a double ring, like a figure of eight, and
a circular cavity with hollow entrances cut in it exactly to the
CAMD. SOC. 0 VOL. II.

98 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
cardinal points. I should bOnjecture that they are something
relating either to ancient worship or games. There are some
works on the hill over Brightelmston a little like them, tho' I
suspect they might be only the foundations of some old Windmills;
being not so exactly regular as these are. From Rumney it is a
sort of a flat promontory or capfe, call'd the Nesse or Nose ; the
north-east part of it is called Denge Nosse, where there is a light
house four miles from Lidd, one half of the way good road, the
other very heavy over pebbles, with large pools of fresh water t6
the west. I went to this lighthouse, which is a quarter of a mile
both from the eastern and northern shore, and they have a well of
good water near it There is a bank to the west of that which is
Lidd, remarkable for a particular 'kind of holly, which, from the descrip
tion, I should imagine to be the hedge hog holly ; and a particular
kind of pease, the pods of which are in bunches, grow on this shoar,
and are good to eat, they are the Pisum Marinum or Maritimum
Britanlcum, the English sea pease. On this beach, near South
end, is a heap of large stones, called the monument of St. Crispin
and S, Crispinian, where they say they were shipwreck'd and I
suppose buryed. This marsh fattens a great number of sheep and
black cattle sent from other parts, and they have a large kind of
sheep of their own breed. It Is from this place that some people
call'd Onlers run so much of our wool to France. From Lidd I
went 12 miles over the marsh to the Rother, which .we cross'd on
a bridge into Sussex ; and going two miles further by Blayden and
part of it on the turnpike road from London came to Rye, a town
Eye. situated in a very extraordinary manner on a hill, which by the
meeting of two rivers and the coming in of the tyde is a peninsula.
Tho' the town of Rye owes Its flourishing state to the decay of
Winchelsea^ yet It was a place of some note before, for in king
Stephen's time William de Ipres, earl of Kent, built a tower here^
which is now call'd Ipres tower, and is the prison at the north-east
part of the town. But when Winchelsea was decayed, Edward
III. built a wall round this town, and it began to flourish greatly.

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 99
I observed at the gate we enter'd, one part which seem'd to be of
the time of William of Ipres, and another of the same date probably
as the walls, so that the first might be the gate when the town was
defended only by ramparts. Rye was burned by the French In the
reign of Richard 2d. About the year 1607 a violent storm im
proved this port, which they say was further opened by another of
late years, but still it is but a bad harbour, and only small vessels
can come into it. There is a Saxon door to the church, and
some Saxon architecture within. At the north-west part of the
town are remains of a convent, the church of which is con
verted into a storehouse. They have a very handsom town house,
and the place is supplied with water in pipes, which is pre
served in cisterns, but the water has a bad taste, occaslon'd ij;
may be by not keeping the cisterns clean. They have a trade in hops,
wood and timber, and iron (as there are iron works near) for all sorts
of cast iron, and they are great fishermen, and send off fish every
day to London ; it is also a great passage into Normandy, being one
of the nearest harbours to that part of France, I crossed over Sud-
bridge river on a drawbridge, which rises at Bockley, where there
is an iron work, and there is another at Breeden, near Battle. We
cross'd another river and ascended to Winchelsea, where there are
remains of a very large town ; it was built in the time of Edward
1st, when, in 1250, the old town of Winchelsea was, by a great winchelsea.
storm, swallowed up by the sea, which they say was mostly on the
other side of the Rother, and it is probable that this river at that
time left Romney and emptyed It self this way, for that tempest
made a great alteration in the coast of Kent. On the shoar to the
south of the river there are remains of»a fort, built by Henry 8th,
and It is said there was a monastery on that spot. Winchelsea
stands high, it being a hanging ground towards the harbour. It
was finely laid out with handsom broad streets, so as to make
thirty-two squares or quarters, many of which are hardly visible.
"Three of the gates only remain, one of which is a mile distant from
the others, so that it is probable that this town was a mile In length

100 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
from east to west, and it may be near half a mile in breadth ; it was
at first defended by a rampart, and afterwards by stone walls.
There were three parish churches in it, but now only part of one
remains, that is the chancel and cross isle, and there was a tower
near the west end. It is a very handsome building, like a cathedral.
There are some old monuments in it of persons unknown, two or
three of them are supposed to be Knights of Malta, because their
legs are across." On the outside of the east end is a nich, as If for
a statue, with a long inscription under it, which is so defaced that it
is hardly visible, except when the sun shines on It. The Church of
the Convent Is a handsome building, but In ruins, and there are
some remains of the Convent It self, and particularly a nich adorned
with Gothick work, which seems to have been a pulpit or sort of
reading desk In the refectory. There are many large vaults in
several parts ; but at present it is only a village consisting of a very
few houses, tho' it is a borough town. This place was sack'd by the
French and Spaniard, and before it was finished the sea retired from
it, and it began to decay. Lewis, September I7th, 1754.
Going from Winchelsea I soon cross'd a rivlet ; near it Is a chaly
beat water ; there is also such a water at Selscomb, near Battle, and
it is said in many other places, which they say are all of the same
nature as the waters of Tunbridge. I ascended a high hill, the top
of which commands a very fine prospect, eastwards to the head
beyond Folkstone, and to the west almost as far as Chichester, and
northward of the hills towards Tunbridge, as well as of the vales on
this side of them. I descended to Hastings, which is very curiously
situated between two hills, with a small rivlet running in the bottom.
It consists of two streets, one for shops, the other for fishermen ; on
one side of the latter the houses are built on the side of the hill with
a terrace before 'em six or seven feet above the street ; there is a
» Such cross-leg'd figures denote only that the owner went to a Crusade or vow'd
to go. — Note in MS.

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. 101
church at each end of the town. There are ruins of a large castle
on the hill over the town to the west. Mr. Collier has a house and
handsom gardens here. Hastings is said to have its name from
Hastings, a pyrate, who built forts on the coast. The town was
burnt by the French in 1377, and was afterwards rebuilt in the
present form. They have a great trade in sending fish to London, •
and export iron pigs from the neighbouring forges. It is no harbour,
but a gravelly beach, and they draw up vessels of 70 tun on the land.
They compute about 2,000 souls in the town, tho' only 500 houses.
In King Athelstan's time they had a mint here. William the Con- Hastings.
queror mustered his army here after he had burnt his transport
ships, and near this place the battle was fought, In 1263, in which
Henry III. and his son Edward were taken prisoners by Simon de
Montfort, Earl of Leicester. I saw here a large silver vase, with
an inscription signifying that it was made of the share out of the
silver staves, &c., of the canopy of the underwritten persons, canopy-
bearers to King George the II. and Queen Caroline, that is, S'
William Ashburnham, Bart., Thomas Pelham, of Stanmer, Esq'^^.,
Edward Dyne, Esq., the Honourable Thomas Townsend, Esq^".,
and James Pelham, Esq^- In the way to Hastings I had seen
Bromham, the seat of S' William Ashburnham, whose nephew
is Bishop of Chichester. I went about two miles from Hastings,
cross'd a rivlet, and in half a mile another, and passing by
Bulverhyth I saw an old ruined church, and to the north the
house of Mr. Cramp. Here William the First landed, and
since that time the village has been almost entirely destroyed by
the sea. A mile further brought us to Bexhill, where there is a
mount which serves for a beacon. I observed near Battel a wood,
with ridings cut through it, which belongs to Lord Ashburnham,
of Ashburnham. I saw Mr. Cranston's seat to the left, and after
travelling fourteen miles from Hastings came to Pevensey ; here is a
very large enclosure of an ancient castle, containing about eight
acres. I observed the walls from the town are built of stone, and a
row of brick on the inside and out to bind the building, after the

102 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Roman manner. It Is true I did not think it a Roman work, biit
Mr. Somner judges it to be the ancient Anderida, where the band
of the Avulae was quartered ; as Glldas saies, " In littore Oceani
ad meridiem," the design of them being to wafch against any enemy
that might land. And Archbishop Usher makes it appear that it is
Caer Pensavelcoit of the Britains. But if it was not built by the
Romans, it was doubtless a work in imitation of their manner of
building. Here some have said William the Conqueror landed and
burnt his ships, and vanquished Harold at Battel, where he founded
a monastery in memory of his victory. I went four miles to the
seahouses near East Bourne, very pleasantly situated on the beach,
and people resort here to bathe and drink the sea water. I went to
East Bourne, where the Earl of Northampton has a seat, the late
Lord Wilmington's. The sea cliffs here are high and make Beachy
Head, and very fine springs of water run out of them ; there is a
cave in one of them called Derby's Hole, frona one Mr. Derby,
minister of East Dean, who lived In it for some time.
Going on towards Brighthelmston, I passed by a camp called
Belfonie, near Burling Gap, It is possible this might be the Con
queror's camp, tho' he afterwards went towards Hastings. The
road being over the Downs, where they make holes In shape of a T
by cutting out the turf ; cover part of it over with the sod, and set
up stones before them for the birds called White ears to perch on,
and when frightened by clouds passing over, or by any other means,
they run into the holes and are caught In a springe laid in them ;
these birds when fat are very delicate., and sell on the spot for a
shilling a dozen. I crossed the river Cruckmore, which makes the
haven of that name. On it stands Alfryton, where I was Inform'd
there is an old church. I went near Seaford, a poor little fishing
town, which has suffered much In time of war, and in 1560 the
French attack'd it, but were repulsed by Sir Nicholas Pelham. As
this is the last of the Cinque Ports I shall just touch on the nature
of them.
The original of the Cinque Ports seems to have been to defend the

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 103
coast against any invasion, and the Constable of Dover Castle and
Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, which offices are united in the
same person, seems to have succeeded to the Roman officer called
the Count of the sea coast and of the Saxon shore. The office of Comes.
Constable of Dover Castle was first Instituted by the Conqueror, and
he made this officer Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. The Cinque
Ports are Hastings, Dover, Hith, Romney, and Sandwich, to which
Winchelsea and Rye are added as principals, and some other little
towns near them as members only, which are as follows : —
Hastings .... Seaford qu.
I Margate.
Dover . . . . -^xn n ^
{s olkstone.
Hith. Romney .... Lidd.
„ , . , (Ramsgate.
bandwich . . . . {¦r^ ,
(Deal
Winchelsea.
Rye.
The people of these places are free from subsidy and wardship,
and could not be impleaded but in their own courts. And such of
the inhabitants as have the name of Barons support the canopy of
the Kings and Queens at their coronation, and have their table at
their right hand. On forty dales notice each of the five were to
furnish one and twenty ships, with twenty-one men in each, for
fifteen days at their own expence, and afterwards to be paid by the
king ; the captain and constable six pence a day, the others 3<'.
I passed by Bishopstown, a hunting Rouse of the Duke of New
castle's. We came to Newhaven, a small harbour at the mouth of
the Ouse, on which Lewes stands eight miles from it ; the river is
passed by a ferry. I saw a ship building of 230 ton which was to be Newhaven.
lanched at a spring tide, and vessels of 150 ton commonly come into
the harbour. Over the small town there are some marks of a
building and trenches ; this Is called the castle. They import coals

104

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Bright elmston.

•This ought
to be in
parenthesis. » So in the
original, hut
should be left
out.

and timber for Lewes, and export bark, timber, and corn. Two
miles beyond it I saw a line carried down to the sea. I came to
Brighthelmstone, a long fishing town ; It is built with the pebbles of
the beach, but greatly improved of late by the concourse of people
who come to it to bathe and drink the sea waters, under a perswasioh
that the water here is better than at other places, concerning which
a treatise has been written by Dr. Russel. They have a good coffee
house and a large room for company, arid carriages for the con
veniency of bathing. King Charles the II. after the battle of
Worcester In 1651 having wander'd about to several places, came
here and got off to France, of which there is this memorial in the
churchyard which is finely situated on the hill over the town.
P. M. S.
Captain Nicholas Pettersell *through whose Prudence, Valour and Loyalty
Charles the Second King of England, And » after he had escaped the Sword of his
merciless Rebels and his forces received' a fatal overthrow at Worcester, Sepf. S"",
1651, was faithfully preserved and conveyed into France* Departed this life the
26'!' day of July, 1674.
At the Restoration the Captain had a pension of £200 a year,
which has been continued to his family.
There is nothing remarkable in the Church but an old rood loft
that is still remaining. I saw on the hill the remains of some
ancient works, a circle something like that near Lid in Kent, a semi
circular work before it (which possibly might be the remains of an
old windmill), and there is a square trench near it.

Chichester, September 20th, 1754.
From Brightelmstone I went along the valley three or four miles
to Stanmore, Mr. Pelham's, where there is a very good house of
hewn stone, fine lawn, and plantations, and a wood cut out. into
walks. From that place an hour's ride brought me to Lewes, a
town most delightfully situated on a rising ground, and consists
chiefly of one street which extends for a mile In length to the river,
with lanes leading from it on each side down the descents to the

DB. EICHAED POCOCKE. 105
valley. Beyond the bridge is a large suburb, called the Cliff.
This town had two mints in King Athelstan's time. It Is famous
for a battle between Henry III. and the Barons, in which Prince Lewes.
Edward was taken prisoner, and the King obliged to make a peace
on very hard terms. In the old church of St. John over the Castle
is a good Scripture history piece, and the doorway of the church is
of old Saxon architecture. But it is most remarkable for an in
scription, on the outside of the wall, which I here give more correct
than It is in Cambden :
Clauditur hie miles Danorum regia proles
Mangnus nomen ei, maguae nota progeniei
Deponens Manguum, se moribus induit agnum
Praepete pro vita fit parvulus Anachorita.
On the south side of the town are the remains of a convent of the
Order of St. Benedict of Cluny. It was a very large enclosure ;
there Is a pond in it, out of which a fine limpid stream rises and
runs through the convent, It is call'd Cockstead pond and stream ;
there are considerable ruins of the convent, near It is an old church
called Southover, and In the bottom to the north of it are remains
of a building which I thought might have been a gateway. As
part of this Convent was said to have been the seat of the jierson to
whom the estate was granted after tlie Reformation, it has obtained
the name of the Lords place, and there Is a small mount within the
enclosure which Is called the Lords place mount. The Castle was
built by the same William de Warren earl of Surrey who founded
the convent. There are two mounts or keeps In it, on one of them
which is very high is a building from which there Is a most glorious
prospect to the sea, of the valley between and of the vale to the
north, with the river running through them. In most beautiful
maeanders, and the hills form a most romantic amphitheater, one
about four miles to the south-east appears to have been fortifyed.
From the Castle the walls extend round the the town on each side,
of which there are some litle remains. This town chiefly subsists
by supplying the neighbouring places with the conveniences of life,
CAMD. SOC. P VOL. II.

106

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Beeding.

BramberCastle.

and by many gentlemen who live in it, as it is a cheap market.
They have also a considerable trade in wool, which Is esteemed the
best in England.
From Lewes I went along the north edge of the Downs over that
valley in which stands the small town of Dickleng, and after travell
ing three miles I passed by an old line, ,and in two miles more
a circle and old barrow, and came to Woodbury Camp, situated
where the hills form an angle to the N.W. There is a fine view
from it, and It is of considerable extent. We descended to the west
to Newtimber, where M'^. and M'. Newnham have houses.
The best way to Beeding is by the Downs to the south-west, but we
went under the hills and came to Ponings, where there are remains
of an old large mansion house called Ponings place. In about five
miles we came to Beeding, a large village on the river, which
empties It self at Shoreham. There was a Priory here under
Saumur in France, In which there are some remains of Saxon
architecture. M''. Thomas Newlin, Fellow of Magdalene College
in Oxford, an eminent preacher, who published two volumes of
sermons, was vicar of this parish, and Is buryed here. A small
mile from it and near the river is Bramber Castle situated on an
eminence, and there is part of a high tower remaining. It was
given to the Braoses of King William the first. The river, it is
said, was formerly navigable to this place. This and the neighbour
ing town Stening joyn, if I mistake not, in sending two members to
Parliament. A part of Bramber extends to Stening, a mile beyond
the castle, and a mile or two farther is a fine seat of Sir Charles
Goreing's. I went to Stening ; it is a small town, where there is a
Saxon church. From Beeding I ascended the Downs ; five miles
from it Is Finden, a delightful retirement on the Downs ; over it is
an old camp called. CIsbury, of which the common people have a
notion that it was Caesar's camp, tho' it Is doubtless a British camp.
One thing Is very particular, that on the west hill are several large
holes dug, as if to receive water. To the north of Findon is
Montin, where Lord Montacute has built, is making great planta-

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 107
tions, and has brought water with great expence. About two miles
further is MItchel Grove, a good old house of S'^^ John Shelley's,
who married a sister of the Duke of Newcastle. A litle beyond it
we rode through the very pleasant park which belongs to it ; and
beyond It passed by what is called a park of the Duke of Norfolk's,
which did not seem to be kept in order as a park, and passing by a
spaw water we came to Arundel, a small town very pleasantly Arundel.
situated on the side of a hill, consisting of one broad street. Some
imagine the Arun was the name of the river, from which the valley
below had the name of Arundale. There was a college founded
here by the Earls of Arundel ; the remains of the cloyster is seen
on one side of the church, which is a large building, and the east
end and a chapel to the north of it is locked up from the rest of the
church, as the burial place of the family of the Lords of Arundel,
now in the Duke of Norfolk's. In the north chapel is a tomb of
1400, where there is a monument of Earl Thomas of 1596, and of
Fitzalan of this family, who was shot with a poisoned arrow. On
the south side is the epitaph of Henry Fitz Alan, the last of the line,
which is in Cambden. He was Knight of the Garter, Privy Coun
sellor to Henry VIIL, Edward the VI., Queen Mary and Queen
Elizabeth, Governor of Calais, General at the siege of Bologne,
Lord Chamberlain to Henry the VIIL and Edward VI., High
Constable for Queen Mary's Coronation, Steward of her household,
and President of the Council, as he was afterwards to Queen
Elizabeth. This monument was erected by his son-in-law. Lord
Lumley. The castle here was In being in the time of the Saxons.
On the coming in of the Conqueror Roger Montgomery repaired
it, and was styled Earl of Arundel. » His son Robert Bolesme,
who succeeded his brother Hugh, was outlawed for rebellion by
Henry I., who gave this castle in dower to his Queen Adellza,
daughter of the Duke of Lorraln. She afterwards married William
d'Aubery, who was made Earl of Arundel. In the fifth- Earl, the
isue male failing, his sister was married to John Fitz Alan, Lord
of Clun, in Shropshire, by whom this castle came to him, and it is

108 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
determined by Parliament that whoever has this castle is Earl
of Arundel, which, if I mistake not, is the only Instance in England
of strict local barony. Fitz Alan, whose monument I have men
tioned, the eleventh Earl, died without Isue male, and was succeeded
by Philip Howard, his grandson by his daughter, from whom it
came to the Dukes of Norfolk. It is a very strong old castle over
the river, and there is a round tower on the keep. The Duke of
Norfolk has a house in It with a Popish chapel, which is shown to
strangers. I went about five miles in the Chichester road, and
passed near Sllndon, Lord Kinard's, only son of Lady. Newburgh
by Mr. Ratcliffe, who was beheaded in the year 1747. There
are fine woods about it, and it came to him by marrying an
heiress, the daughter of . We went out of
the road to the left toward Selsey, and passing by several villages,
after eight miles travelling, we came to Pagham, and crossing over
in a boat to the peninsula of Selsey, we sent our horses across the
Selsey. mouth of the river to meet us, and riding a mile by the shoar, we
crossed into the road and came to the village of Selsey, where we
lay, and went a mile and half the next day to the east to Selsey
Church which is doubtless on the site of the old cathedral of this
See, which was removed to Chichester by Stigand the 22^ Bishop.
For Edinwald gave It to Wilfrid Bishop of York, then in exile,
who first preached the Gospel here. Then Cedwalla who conquered
Edinwaleh founded a Monastery in this place. There are remains'
near the Church of a large tower, which fell down in the memory
of man, and of a fortifyed place, which was probably the Bishop
house. This peninsula is joyned to the land on the west by a very
small strip of land. It Is famous for good wheat, and for excellent
cockles. I could not find that there were any signs of an old city
here, and I much doubt whether any ruins have been ever seen In
the sea. I pame by Selscomb Mill, a very great work, the race
being made by letting In the tyde, which turns the mill on its going
out. From Selscom I came to Chichester.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 109
Portsmouth, September 23rd, 1754.
Chichester, called In Saxon Cissanceaster, had Its name from
CIssa, the second king of the South Saxons, who resided here. At
the time of the Conquest there were an hundred houses in it, tho'
it had been in a very low condition. St. Peter's monastery and a
nunnery are mentioned before that time. The bishop's see was
then moved to it from Selsea, and it began to flourish. A small
torrent runs on the east side of it, but Is frequently dry for a
considerable time, and the town is at a good distance from the
Creek formed by the sea, of which there are several on this coast.
There Is a pleasant walk on the walls of the city. The streets are
well laid out, and in the center of the town is a fine cross engraved
by the Antlquarys' Society, which I suppose is what Is called a
piazza, built by Bishop Robert Read. Near the north gate was a
castle, the seat of the Earls of Arundel, who called themselves
Earls of Chichester. It is now the seat of S' Hutchin Williams,
with a padock belonging to it. This and an Hospital is between
the north and east gates. Between the east and south gate is a
peculiar of the Archbishop of Caiiterbury's, which is called the
Palat. From the north to the west gate are gardens to the houses
of that part of the two principal streets, which divide the town into
four parts. The space between the west and south gates is taken
up by the cathedral and church houses. The outside of the Cathe
dral is of Saxon architecture, except the two east windows and the
cross isle, which is probably the church built by Bishop Ralph soon
after the see was moved to this place, at the time of the Conquest,
the cross isle excepted. It was burnt before It was finished, and
rebuilt In the time of Henry I. The upper windows within are
Gothick, and so are the isles. These were probably additions after
the church was burnt down again In the time of King Richard I.
It was rebuilt by Sesfrid 2"*, It may be with a cross isle and spire.
In the south part of the cross Isle the history of the foundation of
the church is painted, and the pictures of the kings of England,
of the Bishops of Selsea and Chichester, which were done by

1 10 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
Bishop Sherburne, who greatly beautified the church and painted
the celling. On the north side of the body of the church Is a
monument with a couchant statue, which 'tis said was of Hugh
Montgomery, Earl of Arundel, who they say gave the ground for
the site of the church. The Duke of Richmond made a fine vault
the summer before he dyed, if I mistake not under the library at
the east end of the church. In it are buryed his father, and the
late duke and dutchess and some young children. This inscription
is at the end : Sibi et suia
Posterisque Eorum
Hoc Hypogaeum
vivens P. C.
Carolus Eichmondiae
Leviniae et
Albiniaci Dux
Anno JErae Christianae
MDCCL
Haec est Domus Ultima.
In rebuilding the bishop's house they found some Roman coins
and ancient pavement, supposed to be the temple of Neptune and
Minerva, as they had before found this inscription, that is, of the
Duke of Richmond's at Goodwood, which mentions the temples to
those deities. It has been engraved :
NBPTVNO ET MINEEVAB
TBMPLVM
PEO SALVTB DOMVS DIVINAB
EX AUCTORITATE TIB . . . CLAUD . . .
COGIDVBNI KB  GAT .... BEIT
COLLEOIVM FABEOE . . ET QUI IN EO
SODALES I) . S . D DONANTB AEEAM
PVDBNTE PVDENTIKf . PIL.
They have some forreign trade, and export meal to London, and
timber to several parts. To the north of the town near the gallows
is a stone with an inscription on it signifying that several smuglers
were hanged in 1749 for a very cruel murder. Near this is the

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. Ill
Brille, the remains of an old camp, which extends to the south, near
to the town, and is lost, being there entirely defaced ; but I saw
another, which extends from west to east that probably joyned it, as
it is joyned at the north end by another In that direction. I observed
also a line extending from the north east corner northward, and as
I was inform'd, goes near to Lavant I found the north west angle
and traced it to the south west, and then along the south side for
some way, but it is destroyed towards the town. It is said to be
four furlongs and two perches in length, I suppose from east to west,
and two furlongs broad, and it is with great reason conjectur'd to be
the camp of Vespasian on his landing. To the north on St. Rooke's
hill (supposed to be St. Roche's hill, probably from a chapel on the
top of it, which might be dedicated to him) is a round camp two
furlongs in diameter. A mile and half west of it is Gonshil camp,
an oblong square, and may be Roman. I have formerly seen the
following places in this neighbourhood. Goodwood, the seat of the
Duke of Richmond, where there is a fine park, and on a hill in it iJoodwood.
the Duke built a beautiful room, which commands a fine prospect ;
the ceiling of it is painted after some old Roman designs in a very
beautiful manner. This is called ; near the house is a grotto
and an underground passage made from it called the Catacombs.
There are walks through woods^ in which are gothick and other
buildings. But this place is most famous for a great variety of
forest trees and shrubs ; they have thirty different kinds of oaks,
and four hundred different American trees and shrubs, which com
pose one wilderness. This place was very agreable when it was
inhabited by the most amiable couple In the world, the late Duke and
Dutchess. From Goodwood I went to 'Halnaere, an old monastery,
where I saw the old Lady Derby, who being the sole heir of S"^
William Morley, brought this estate into that family. Beyond
Goodwood are several lodges of a Society of Hunters, with a large
room in which they dine ; and beyond this the Duke of Richmond
has a fine wood cut out into rideings, where there Is a cover'd place,
in which they some times used to dine. A few miles beyond this is

112

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

MIdhurst, which stands on a river that falls into the Arun. It
Midhnrst. formerly belonged to the Bohuns, who were the spigamels or sealers
of the king's writs. Near it Is Oowdry, the seat of the Viscounts
Cowdry. Montacute, of the name of Brown, a Roman Catholick. It Is an
exceeding good old house, and furnished In a plain grand manner,
mostly with scarlet velvet ; it is famous for painting, commonly
said to be of Holbens, which serve as the wainscoat of a parlor. They
are by a scholar of Holbens, if I mistake not ; his name was
De Aqulla. On the left is the siege of Bullogne, on the right the
entry of .Edward the 6th, being his procession from the Tower to
Westminster in order to be crown'd. The painting in the south cross
isle of Chichester Cathedral, representing the first foundation of the
church by Wilfrid and the refounding by K. H. 8th, was done by
Holben or his scholar De Aqulla, and is a very fine performance, and
in good preservation. The pictures of the Saxon kings, &c. on the
opposite wall are not done by the same hand. Petworth is near the
same river, the seat of the late Duke of Somerset, now of Lord
Egremont, at which there is nothing very remarkable, except that,
if I mistake not, the Sussex stone that is so full of shells and pollishes
well is found about this place.

Alresford, Sept. 25th, 1754.
To the north-west of Chichester is Standsted, the seat of the last
Earl of Scarborough except one, and now of his relation, Mr.
Lumley ; it is a fine situation and a good house, to which there is
a long and beautiful avenue of trees. There is a grand staircase in
the house, of Virginia walnut, am some of the rooms are hung wi.h
tapistry, in which are represented the Duke of Marlborough's
battles. Uppark, Lord TankervIUe's, is not far from it ; the park
belonging to it is very fine ; it did belong to the Fords, and S'^
Edward, the famous mechanic, was born here, who, under Oliver
Cromwell, raised the Thames water by a machine of his invention
into the highest streets In London, to the heigth of ninety-three
feet, and built the water engine near Somerset House. It now

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 113
belongs to S' Matthew Fetherstone, Bart. In the way from
Chichester to Havant I went out of the road to Bosenham or
Boseham ; here was a sort of hermitage, to which King Harold
used to retire, and taking his pleasure In a boat was driven into
Normandy, where he was detained till he had made over the
kingdom of England, after Edward the Confessor, to William Duke
of Normandy, who afterwards made a conquest of it. There Is also
a story of Earl Godwin's getting this estate of an Archbishop of
Canterbury. There are some things remarkable in the church,
being a mixture of Saxon and Gothick architecture, and there is an
arched place under it, which possibly may be the old hermitage. Bosenham.
The Parsonaore house is an old buildlno;. But what Is most extra-
ordinary Is a head of a colossal statue, much abused, but seems to
me to be plainly a Roman work ; it was found In the churchyard.
Coming into Hampshire I passed thorough a litle town called
Emesworth ; it is said the natives of it are exempt from corporation
duties in all the towns in England. I came to Havant, a small
town in a bad air, which has flourished lately by an export of meal
and malt to Ireland. In the church is the tomb of Thomas
Aleward, of 1413, who was rector of this place, and was one of the
executors to William of Wickham's will. I had this account given
me of the old Roman road, called Stone Street Road, going from
Chichester to Halneere, three miles over the Downs to Ertham,
three miles then to the north side of Northwood or, through It, and
by Bigner Park, Waltersfield, and Cold Waltham, and, leaving both
to the right, crosses the River Arun t9 Poulver, where there Is a
large barrow, to Sllngfold, to Rouhook, to Oakwood Bridge, and Is
lost in the fields ; then it goes by Stan- Street Causeway to Stan
Street Hatch, then probably to Brlatow Causeway and Stretham.
A mile from Havant Is Warblington Castle, formerly belonging
to the Earls of Salisbury, now to the Cottons ; it was moated
round ; part of a grand tower remains, which seems to have been
of good architecture. Close to the coast lye the islands of Haleing
and Thorney, with each its parish church, and both of them are
CAMD. SOC. Q VOL. IL

1 14 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
very rich land. To the former at low water there is a passage by a
rough causeway, and a short way across the Island and over a ferry
to the Isle of Portsea and to Portsmouth.
On the 23rd I went from Havant to , lately inha
bited by , and now by Mr, Palmer of Ireland ; there
is a pleasant park to it. We went by Chalton and Horn Dean,
and came into the road from London to Portsmouth, passing
through the forest of , which belongs , and
going over Portsdown came to the Island of Portsea, to which there
is a passage by a bridge, it being an island when the tyde is in :
To the east of it is a harbour called Langston Haven ; there is
a fort to defend It lately built, called Cumberland Fort, and there
are works to defend the entrance of the island, Athelfled, wife of
King Edgar, gave this Island to New Minster at Winchester ; it is
fourteen miles round. At the south-west part of it is Portsmouth,
which was burnt by the French In the time of Richard II. The
Portsmouth, fortifications were begun by Edward IV., and improved by Henry
VII., King Charles II. , King James II. , and now of late years
brought to much greater perfection by new works, especially in this
present reign, which are still carrying on, as it is look'd on as the
key to England. The eastern entrance of the harbour is defended
by South Sea Castle, built by Henry VIIL, and on Gosport side
by four forts and a platform of twenty canons. It is a fine harbour,
and extends almost as far as Porchester, and it's said will hold a
thousand men of war. In the church Is a monument for the Duke
of Buckingham, who was assassinated here by Felton in the time of
K. Charles I. King Charles II. met the Infanta of Portugal and
was married to her here. The Governor has a handsom house and
chapel in the town, and there is a large brewhouse, bakehouse, and
cooperidge for the Dock, and barracks for the invalids who are here
in garrison. The town of late has been resorted to for batheing
and drinking the sea water, and they have made a very handsome
bathing-house of wood, at a great expence, with separate baths and
apartments for men and women. Tho' there is a chapel in the

DE. EtOHAED POCOCKE, 115
Dock, yet they have built another near it for the large suburb,
which Is made by the workmen of the Dock, who pay a chaplain to
officiate ; and near it is a handsom musick room for a weekly con
cert, chiefly: performed by gentlemen. They are supplyed with
water from pumps about half a mile out of town, which is brought
in hogsheads and never fails ; they have a .well also in the Dock at
which the ships water. The great curiosity of this place is the
Dock, where flrst we saw the gun wharf, in which are two Chinese Dock.
Pagods seven feet high, vvith the heads of lyons, as on a sort of a
pillar, all of one piece of grey granite, brought by Commodore
Anson and placed here.
Most of the Docks -are lined with Portland stone, and are staunch'd
with the clay brought from Estamsay near. They have from 1,000
to 1,500 men employed In the yard; it is curious to see them go out
at the toll of a bell at noon and night, when every one may take out
any useless pieces of wood and chips, as much as they can carry
under the arm, and small chips in bags, which are examined with a
wooden crow, aud all of them observed to see that they do not take
out any iron, or anything valuable. It is curious also to see the
forges where they make the anchors; the largest weigh about 80
hundred weight, that is four tons, which are work'd with machines
to move them. The ropeyard is 102 fathoms in length ; they joyn
three lengths to make the longest cable, which is 306 fathoms, and
23 inches round, consequently about eight inches in diameter, con
sists of 3,000 threds, and weighs flve tons. The main-yard of a
first rate man-of-war is 23f Inches in diameter and 33 long, and
the bowsprit is 36 inches in diameter, and the mainmast 38. The
house of the Commissioner, who is the jiead oflficer of the Dock and
of all the other officers, are on the east side of the Dock. The
Academy is a handsoni building for fifty youths to be instructed in
the theory and practice of Navigation, where they are lodged, dieted,
and wear the sea officers uniform, blue turn'd up with white ; here
they remain three years, and then are made midshipmen ; and this,
or serving under captains of men-of-war three years, is the only way

116 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
of being advanced in the Navy. They go out once a week and work
a yatch, which is full rigg'd as a man-of-war, in order to be well
versed in the practice. In the Academy they have a fine orrery
which cost £200, and a model of a first rate man of war rig'd.
Tho' they have several advantages in education, yet they cannot
live here under £50 or £60 a year, and those who cannot afford it
send their sons into the Navy in the other way. From the Com
missioner there goes up an account every week to the Navy Board
of all the work that Is done in the Dock. On the Gosport side is
lately built of brick part of a very noble hospital for the sick and
wounded sailors ; it is to make four sides of a square court, one of
which only as yet is finished, which is 574 -long and 100 deep.
There is a fine alto relievo in the pediment relating to the subject.
Gosport. It consists of four floors above ground and one under ground for
certain offices, but what is most curious, the whole is built on arches
in such manner that the highest tyde does not come to the top of
them, and there are passages by the galleries under the arches
exactly in the manner of the Temple of Diana at Ephesus, so that
the tide comes in and out without being any way offensive to the
buildings or apartments. It is divided into several wards, with
many beds in them, as other hospitals, and there is a kitchen at
each end. Winchester, Sept. 26th, 1754.
From Portsmouth I went by water on the 24th to Portchester,
situated on the north-west part of the harbour and to the east of the
river which comes from Fareham, It is the Miyag XtfjLrjv (the great
harbour) of Ptolemy, said also' to be call'd Port peris now Port
chester, where it Is supposed Vespasian landed. It is now an
enclosure about a furlong square encompassed with a wall, and
tho' very litle if any part of the wall be so old as the time of the
Romans, yet one sees much Roman brick in it. At the north-west
corner are large remains of a castle of a more modern date than the
Portchester. -walls. A litle way from it to the north and west Is a large ram-

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE.

117

/l^

part which I take to be the Roman work, and there is somthing of
it to the south. Within the walls is a church, the most perfect
building of the Roman architecture corrupted, which we call Saxon,
that I have seen, without any alteration, except that the south part
of the cross Isle is demolished. Over the west door is a round
window with two arches that are lower on each side adorn'd with
carvings like mosaick in a very good taste, appearing something
like the Venetian window used in Venice. There are very
particular stalls work'd into the stone work of the wall, four
on each side of the chancel in this manner
and some of them also in the North Isle, where
their priests might say their matins and vespers.
There is an old Font in the church, adorned
with grotesque flgures, running scrolls, and arches intersecting each
other, like that I saw at St. Martins in Carterbury. There is a
monument here for S'' Thomas Cornwallls Groom porter to Queen
Elizabeth and King James. In this place there were kept between
2 or 3000 French prisoners, the town Is now dwindled into a
village of houses scatter'd on each side of a street half a mile long,
I had formerly been at Tichfield near the river which rises
towards Petersfield, and passes by Wickham ; here was a monastery
founded by Peter de rupibus Bishop of Winchester, which has
passed through the hands of several noble families and now belongs
to the Duke of Beaufort, Wickham is famous for the birth of
William of Wickham whose name was He was Wickham.
patronized by the Uvedales of this place, whom he mentions with
much gratitude in his statutes. Further on is Hamble, a litle port
where they build ships, it is on the river Hamble, which rises near
Bishops Waltham, that derives its name from a castle the Bishops
of Winchester formerly had there. In 1723 a Gang of Deer Waltham.
Stealers, who black'd their faces and resorted much to this place,
were call'd Waltham Blacks, and were soon suppressed by Act of
Parliament. From Portsmouth I went on the 25th over Portsdown to South-

118

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Southwick.

Alresford.

wick, the seat formerly of the Nortons, now of Mr. Thistlethwalte,
a relation of the last of the name of Norton ; it is on the river on
which Fareham stands, which is a small town a litle above Port
chester. It is a good old house which the present proprietor is
improveing with great expence and laying out the ground in the
Park style. We went through the forest to Soberton, late the seat
of Mr. Lewis, now the estate of Lord Anson ; it is on the river
that runs to Tichfield ; going near the river we came to Droxford,
the seat of the Morleys of the family of the Bishop of Winchester of
that name, who are buryed in the church, in which there is a very
ancient Saxon door. Leaving this river and going near Corhampton,
we saw the villages of Exton and Warnford on the river ; at the
latter the Earl of Clanrickard has a seat ; Cambden sales, Adam de
portu rebuilt the church and quotes a distich in relation to it in the
walls, and verses puting forth that Wilfrid was the founder of it.
We saw Westmean above the rise of the river. Over Warnford to
the east is old Winchester, a large camp on a hill, of which the
people of the country have a tradition, that it was an ancient city.
But as Wulphur king of the Mercians gave Edilwalch king of the
South Saxons the country of the Meanvari, which is now divided
into three hundreds, Eastmean, Westhean and Meansborow, together
with the Isle of Wight, it is probable that this place was the strong
hold of that people. I crossed the down to Kingston where a rivlet
rises that falls into the Itching near Alresford, To the right of it
is Hinton, the seat of Lord Stawel, and passing near Cheriton and
Tichburne the seat of the Baronets of that name, I came to Alres
ford a small neat town yery pleasantly situated on a rising ground,
near the source of the river Itchin, this river rises about a mile
from the town at Sutton, and forms a large pond near a mile round
at the head of which is an old Roman road which goes to Alton.
Another rivlet joyns these two about Itching, where I suppose it
took the name of Itching, and that the branch whi ch rises near
Alresford was called the Aire, and there being a passage across by
that Roman road, gave the town the name of Alresford. This town

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 119
has been burnt several times. It Is a great thoroughfare from London
to Winchester and Southampton. At the first planting of Christianity
King Kinewall gave thlsi place to the church of Winchester and in,
1220 Bishop Lucas restored the market to the town. On a rising
ground half a mile beyond the river is a church called old Alres
ford, which has been lately rebuilt. Here Mr. Rodley, captain of
a man-of-war has built a fine house near the parsonage, which
would make a very good figure if it had not so near a neighbour.
I left Alresford and did not go In the high road to Winchester over
the hill, but went by the river and crossed the. stream which falls
in above Itchin and rises near Chilton Candover, the late S"" Robert
Worseley's, Grange, . Mr. Henley's, and Abbotston, the Duke of
Bolton's. I had an exceeding pleasant ride by Itchin and the
Worthies passing by the seat of Mr. Pawlet and of Lord Kingston
late Mr. Evellngs at Martyr Worthy, and at Headbourn Worthy
saw in the churchyard the tomb of Mr. Bingham late Rector of that
parish and of Havant, the author of Orlglnes Ecclesiastlcae, who
married my Father's sister. He dyed in 1723. Eumsey, Sept. 28th, 1754.
I came to Hide Abbey, near Winchester. King Alfred built a
new minster or abbey near that of the cathedral, but the monks not
agreeing, and the new monastery being incommoded by the water,
they removed to Hide on the river, in the time of Henry I., and
built a magnificient monastery, the foundations of which are only
seen near the river ; but it is not easy to determine the site of the
church, one building Indeed remains near the parish church of St.
Bartholomew and adjoyning to an old gateway, which I take to
have been the apartment for strangers, in the outer court of the
convent. This monastery was burnt down soon after it was finished,
as it is said by the contrivance of Henry de Blois, Bishop of Win
chester, in which fire King Canute's cross was burnt, said to have
cost a year revenue of the kingdom. Winchester is situated on the Winchester.
river Itchin, and is the old Venta Belgarum, call'd in British

120 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Caer Gwent or Guen, that is, the white city, from the chalky soil.
Camden thinks the Roman Emperors had their imperial weaving
shops here, mention being made in the notltia of Oynegium Ven-
tense, which is interpreted Gynaetium — that is, it is supposed, a
company of all sorts of weavers for the army. Others think it was
the place where the Emperor's dogs were kept, as Britain was
famous for dogs. Constans, who set up to be Emperor against
Honorius, depending on the good fortune of his name, was of this
place. It was the capital of the West Saxon kings. King Ethelstan
granted them the privilege of six mOney mints. Edward III.
settled here the staple for cloth and wool.
The cathedral is a very grand building. Kingie King of the
West Saxons, being converted to the Christian faith by the preach
ing BInnus in 635, he began to prepare to build a church, but
dying he left that work to his son Kenelwalch, who began to build
the church here in 649, as it , Is said, after the college of monks of
the Roman times was destroyed, on the site of which a more mag
nificent cathedral was erected. The Bishop Walkelin enlarged and
improved it about 1052. Bishop Fox greatly improved the east
part and the Quire. Much of the Saxon architecture is seen in this,
and two arches beneath the Quire, which might be the utmost extent
of the old building to the west. Bishop Fox collected the bones
of the Saxon kings, and deposited them In chests placed on each
side of the choir. The Gothick work over the altar Is very fine,
and so are the stalls. Bishop Fox's monument and chapel was
built by himself, where he had a litle closet in which he kept some
books, the presses for which still remain, and here he spent a great
part of the latter end of his life.
In the choir is the plain tomb of William Rufus. The soldiers
in the civil wars opened it and found on his thumb a gold ring with
a ruby In It. There are many fine monuments to the east of the
choir, as of Henry Blois, brother to King Stephen, William Wains-
fleet, and many others. The body of the church was built by
WiUiam of Wickham, as well as his own monument, under which

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 121
his body is deposited. It was begun by Bishop Edindon, and the
two Saxon arches possibly might be built by him. Near the west
end of the church is a thick wall, thought to be part of the old
monastery. Both the old and new monastery were at one time for
married priests untill St. Dunstan declar'd against 'em. In the
south coast isle is the library, and at the east end is a chapel for
early prayers. The ascent to the choir by several steps adds much
to the grandeur of the church, and there is a skreen at the lower
end of the Quire of the Roman architecture of Inigo Jones, said to
be the gift of King Charles I. His statue and King James in
bronze are set up In the front of it In two niches. We have now
come into a better taste of not mingling Roman architecture with
Gothick. There were 45 churches in the city and suburbs, now
about twenty-four, and all of them but indifferent buildings except
the cathedral. In the close, which is walled round, the dean and
prebendaries have their houses and gardens, and the river runs
thorough some of them. D"^. WIshart, a French refugee, having
the deanery conferr'd on him, as he was not very expert in the
English language, and could not render himself as serviceable In
other respects as he might desire to the people, laid out his gardens
in a very elegant manner, and made them publick in order to pro
mote society and conversation, and give a polite turn to the young
people. On the other side of the river is the Bishop's house called
Woolvesey, which has its name from an old house, on the site of
part of which It was erected by Bishop Morley. The ancient
fabrick was the work of Henry du Blois, Bishop of Winchester, in
1137, which was pulled down In the civil wars to make money* of
the materials ; what remains of it is a very strong building. Within
the close is a college founded by Bishop Morley in 1672 for ten
clergymens widows of the diocese, who have each of them five
shillings a week.
The College of St. Maries, near Winchester, built by William of
Wickham, Is a noble foundation for a warden, ten fellows, school- st. Maries
master, usher, three chaplains, seventy boys, fourteen choristers, College.
CAMD. SOC. B VOL. II,

122 THE TEAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
and three clerks. It consists of four courts, in one of which is the
handsom school, built In the last century, and the beautiful chapel
is between another and the cloysters, the windows of which are
finely painted. The library Is in the middle of the cloyster, and
behind it Is a meadow for the boys to divert themselves in, and
there is an infirmary at the further end of it.
Over the door of the school Is a statue of the founder, by Cibber,
father of the poet, who made the statues at the gates of Bedlam.
William of Wickham, Henry de Beaufort, and William Wainfleet,
sat in this See successively 120 years.
The walls of the town are defended by a deep fossee, and at the
south corner of the town are some remains of an old castle, which
was likewise encompassed by a deep fosse. The county hall was
the chapel of the castle, which is a fine Gothic building as it
appears within. It is 110 feet long and 55| broad. This, with
the castle is said to have been built by King Arthur, and at the
west end of the outside of the chapel I saw some very old pillars.
For King Arthur lived at this place. They have a table hung up
at the west end of this room, which they call King Arthur's round
table, but it is supposed to be a table of much later date, used in
the time of justs and turnaments, being convenient to sit at in order
to avoid disputes in relation to precedency. The names of the
twenty-four knights are round it : S"" Galahallt, S"" Lancelot Due-
lake, S' Gavey, S"" Pribald, Sir Lyonell, Sir Tristram Delyens, Sir
Gavetbe, Sir Bedewere, S=^ B. Bibrys, Sfr Lametemale Tayte, Sir
Bicane, Sir Oplomyds, Sir Lamorak, Sir Boro de Ganys, Sir Safer,
SIi; Pellens, Sir Kay, Sir Edorde Marys, Sir Degonet, Sir Degare'
Sir Brumear, Sir Lybyns Dlllong, Sir Allymore, Sir Mordrede.
At the top is the figure of a king, sitting, with these words—
" King Arthur." In the middle a rose is painted, with these words
round it : " This is the round table of King Arthur and twenty-
four of his Knights."
Within this castle King Charles II. built a very fine palace of
the architecture of S^^ Christopher Wren. In digging they found a

DB. EICHARD POCOCKE. 123
brick pavement, and coins of Constantine the Great and others.
This palace was begun March 23*, 1683, and the roof was raised
and leaded over when the king dyed. It consists of the grand
body, and two wings on each side,, all joyning together, and of three
floors and vaults under. In the Inner front, towards the house,
was to have been a pediment supported by five composit pillars,
and by composit pilasters In the back part of the building. It is
built of brick, the window frames and door cases are of stone. In
the center of the building is a cupola, which was to have been high
enough to have been seen from the sea. On each side is a chapel,
one for the king, the other for the queen, with a Dorick colonade
between the chapel and inner court leading to the colonade in front
of the building. There Is a grand entrance on each side, adorn'd
with pillars, and over each entrance there was to have been a
cupola. The grand string of rooms on each side is very fine.
Water was to have been conveyed so as to have made canals ; and
there was to have been a grand street from the house to the west
end of the cathedral, which would probably have consisted of the
houses of the great officers and nobility'; and a park was to have
been made, for all which they had actually agreed for the ground,
and what is done cost £250,000,
To the west of the palace, where St. James's Church stood, the
Roman Catholics bury, and that way it was designed to lower the
ground, so as to have opened a view to the south. When King
George I. came here, he made a present to the Duke of Bolton of
the fine pillars of Italian marble, which were to have supported the
grand st-aircase. Queen Anne had settled it as an apennage for
life on the Prince of Denmark. *
There is a fine market cross in the town adorn'd with statues.
Near the east gate is St. John's house, founded about 1554 by
John Lamb, Esqre., in which the mayors give their entertainments.
A county hospital has been founded here by subscription, set on
foot by Dr. Alured Clark, prebend of Winchester. King Arthur,
son of Pendragon in the year 523, enlarged Winchester. Egbert

124 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
was crowned in this city the first monarch of England. St. S within.
Bishop here, and who was tutor to his son, is buryed in the church
yard of the cathedral. The Danes destroyed the city in his reign,
Edward the Confessor was crown'd in the city, and William the
Conqueror sometimes resided In It.
The Empress Maud being besieged here by King Stephen, caused
to be reported that she was dead, and so made her escape in a coffin.
Henry II. held a Parliament in this city, and as they took part
with King John, he resided here, and his son Henry III. was bOrn
in this city, and William Duke of Saxony, from whom our present
royal family is descended.
Near the town is St. Catherine's hill, on which there is an old
camp, and a mile below the city on the river is the hospital of
St. Cross, said to be first founded by William Rufus, and then
enlarged by Henry De Blois, out of the riches he took from Hide
Abbey, and was enlarged by Cardinal Beaufort for a master, chap
lain, and 35 decayed gentlemen. They are now reduced to 14,
and are commonly poor tradesmen. The mastership is £800
a year. They wear black gowns. The church of it is a grand
old building. Southampton, , 1754.
On the I left Winchester and went across the downs in
the Salisbury road, and in about four miles had to the left Launston,
Mr. Meril's, a very pleasant situation on an eminence, formerly S''
Philip Meadows. About two miles further we had Crowly, Lord
Egmont's, to the right, and Rookly, late Lord Gallway's, now Mr.
Spencer's. We ascended the hill and came to a camp called Dun-
bury, a very fine situation, commanding a view of all the country.
I saw Quarley hill to the west north west, and the camp near
Andover, and that town about north north west. This camp is
about a thousand single paces round. We descended from it to
Stockbridge, a small town and borough, remarkable for nothing
but their elections to Parliament. I turned out of the Sahsbury

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 125
road to the left, and went about two miles to litle Samborne. I
found a petrified echinus In the road. Here lives Mr. Worseley,
heir to S"" Robert and S"" James, who married Lord Orrery's daughter,
by his first lady of the Orkney family. It was formerly the hunting
seat of the Duke of Marlborough and afterwards of Duke Hamilton.
I went by the Test ten miles to Rumsey, passing by Motson, S"-' Mottesfont.
Richard Milles's, on the other side of the river. It is a pretty large 1^"™^'=?-
town. King Edgar founded a nunnery here. The old church now
standing is of a singular Saxon architecture ; the three arches of the
west end are Gothick. King Stephen's only daughter was abbess of
this nunnery ; they lately found a tomb In the corner of the garden
on the side where the cloyster was, which Is supposed to be her
monument, being a couchant figure in alto relievo. They say she
was secretly taken from the monastery by Mathew of Flanders,
3'ounger son of Theodorick of Alsatia, Earl of Flanders. After the
death of William, her brother, she was Countess of Bologne and Mor- ^
taigne, and had two daughters, Ida and Maud. She was afterwards
by the censure of the church separated from her husband, and sent
back to her monastery; but her children were legitimated by Par
liament in 1189, and she left the earldom of Bologne to her
daughters. Sandford's Genealogical History.
On the south wall of the church on the outside are some remains
of a large crucifix in relief In the south isle is a tomb of the
daughter of King Edgar. There is an old square font in the church
on five pillars. It is said that King Edward and his son Alfred
were buryed here. S"" William Petty, father of the late Lord
Shelburn, was born in this town, and the annual Income of a small
estate of the family was given by hlrp to the poor of the town,
and is continued by the present Earl. I came eight miles from
Rumsey to Southampton, passing by Broadlands, Lord Palmerston's,
late S' John St. Barb's, within a mile of Rumsey. About three
miles from Southampton I went by Shirley Mill, a small stream,
which, as I take it,_ falls in at Milbrook, and then by four posts, a
litle above which is a publick house much frequented upon excur-

126 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
sions from Southampton, to which place I came, and shall take
another opportunity to give an account of it.
I went from Southampton northward near St. Denis, where I had
formerly been, and where there are some remains, particularly of a
chapel of a convent, and came to South Stoueham, where Commis
sioner Dummer built a good house, Mr. Nicholas liv'd there, and
then It was Mr. Sloan's. A litle further is Swatheland, In the same
parish, a handsom house built by Mr. Edmond Dummer, being the
place of his birth ; he rebuilt the very house he was bom in, like a
cottage just by it. A mile further Is North Stoneham, where
Col. Flemming had a fine seat, now Mr. Willis's, son of Dr. Brown
Willis, which estate came to him by his mother, after the death of
S' Seymour Pyles' widow, whose joynture it was by Mr. Flemming.
The litle beautifull summer house on the common I formerly men
tioned belongs to this house. Near this are paper milles, and here
they cross the river, as they do at South Stoneham,
Near South Stoneham is Beauvoise Hill. Bogo or Beavoise, a
Saxon, at the tlriie of the Conquest was Earl of Southampton, much
renowned for his valour and conduct. He engaof'd the Normans at
Cardiff, in Wales, Whether this mount was erected by him, or he
was buried in it, or It might be made to his honour, is not easy to
determine. Near it is the seat of the late Earl of Peterborouo-h.
now of his Dowager ; it is taken Into the gardens, and the top of it
commands a most beautiful view of the harbour, which Is very fine
when the tyde Is in. After we had crossed the river on a bridge at
Bittern. S. Stoneham, we went a mile down the river to Bittern, where it
winds so as to make a peninsula. It is defended by two fossees; the
water seems formerly to have passed through the Inner fossee and to
have made it an island ; this is 300 paces long, the other 630. The-
remains of a wall appear on the north side, and of a rampart all
round, and of towers at certain distances, as may be judg'd from the
rising ground, particularly a large one at the west end. Beyond the
first fossee, about 20 yards, are seen on the shore on the east side
foundations so strong that they look like a rock, and something

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE. 127
resemble the pavement of the Via Appia, and fifty yards further is
such another. This I take to have been a place for laying up small
shipping ; It Is not In the least to be do ubted but that this is the ancient
Clausentum, made by the Romans to shut up the mouth of the river
of this harbour, as it Is said by Glldas that they erected many such
forts on the southern coast to prevent the Inroads and piracies of the
Saxons, and there are no marks of antiquity in any other place here
of a tower or castle; within it are ruins of a building, with a Saxon
pillar or two. Part of the building to the east Is very old, as I
imagln'd, older than those Saxon pillars.
The Editor of Camden sayes that a golden coin was lately found
at Bittern, but that the place where coins were formerly dug Is now
a dock for building ships. This is Northam, and on observing the
situation, it is just such another point further to the south, that is
nearer to the town on the other side, which I imagln'd was a proper
place for another fort ; but on enquiring, I could not find that there
were any marks of building or fortifications.
From Bittern I crossed Botteley Common, passing by Milan Pond,
where there Is a spaw water, and half a mile further by Titchfield
Pond, both which are sources of small streams. We then turn'd to
the right, through a wood, and came to Nettley, an ancient monas
tery. Some think this place had its name from Natan Leod, a, King
of the Britains, who had a country call'd Natan Leod, mentioned In
the Saxon Annal, whose country is said to have extended to Cerdlck's
Ford, now Charlford, where the Avon enters Hampshire, which had
its name from Cerdick, who there vanquished the Britains, and
before that had conquered Natan Leod in 508. It Is possible the
country of Hampton, or Hampshire, might have its name from
Natan, and some places in particular about the rise of the Test bear Nettley.
that name, as Southampton or Hamton, and it may be Overton
from Over Antan, and from thence the river might have the name
of Anton, afterwards changed to the Test, and I should conjecture
that Natan Leod comprehended Hampshire, and that all that chain
of camps — one over Stockbridge, another over Wontson, near Sutton,

128 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Woodcot, Beaconhlll, Ladle Hill, and Old Winchester — might be
the barrier fortresses of this country, as the camps beyond the Avon
near Andover, Dunbury, Quarley, &c., might be the enemies' camps.
Possibly also this monastery might be founded by Natan, as some
imagine his name was, and that Leod, British for country, was
added to it. There is a large pond near the convent which might
have been moated round. The body of the church is of a Gothick
architecture of great simplicity, but the east end Is very fine, and
the flat arch of that, and of the cross isle, is beautifully adorned with
arms and devices, among which I saw the Pelican, the Nails of our
SavIour^s sufferings, and a W. To the south of the cross isle Is a
pile of building, which seemed to consist of a chapter house, a refec
tory kitchin, a cellar, and the dormitory. To the east of the church,
about half a furlong, Is a building which might be some office be
longing to the convent. A quarter of a mile from the convent is a
heavy, strong platform for guns, built of stone, with a parapet wall.
I cam.e back near Wo.olston, late Lord Carberry's, a very flne situa
tion, and so by Itchin Ferry to Southampton. I left that town and
came by Milbrook and to Redbridge, the old Vadum Arundlnis,
call'd by some author who has writ in Latin, translated by Bede,
Rcdford. Here was a monastery in the early Saxon times ; Cym-
bert, abbot of it, baptized two sons of Avandus, King of the Isle of
Wight, just as they were about to be murdered by the command
of Cedwalla the Saxon, who invading the island, the young sons
escaped and were betrayed Ad Lapidem (Stoneham). At this place
they have frequently built ships, and the timber of the New Forest
is sent from it to the King's Dock at Portsmouth. And of late years
they import coal, deal boards, and other goods, and have shops well
stored for the supply of the country that way, to the great prejudice
of the trade at Southampton ; and at Eling, on the other side of the
water, the Salisbury merchants have their coalyards. A mile above
this place on the river Is a large old house, at Testwood, belonging
to Mr. Serle, with a salmon wear.
I went by Eling throrough the new forest to Beaulieu, a very small

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 129
town on the river which rises between LIndhurst and Dibden, but,
as the tyde comes up to it, ships of burthen can sail to the town.
King John founded an abbey here bf Cistertians to attone for the
murther of some abbots of that order whom he caused to be trodden
under his horses' feet. The chapel and some parts of the monastery
remain. The estate belongs to the heirs of the Duke of Montagu, Beaulieu.
who have a house here; and the late Duke endeavoured^to make it
a place of trade. This monastery had a great demesne. At St.
Leonards was the farm, where they had a very large barn, still in
use. There was also a chapel here. Another estate was called the
Boverie, where it is supposed they had their kine, and another the
park for the deer, which is near the mouth of the river call'd
which runs by Beaulieu, where ships often take in their loading.
I came to Sowley, where there is a flne lake four miles round, and
great iron works. Two miles from it is Pllewell, S"" James Worse-
ley's, a very fine situation ; and from the house one sees the Isle of
Wight through an avenue, and the sea appears only like a great
river. Near this place I formerly saw the elm call'd the groaning
tree. I came to Lemington on the a small town most delight
fully situated on a high, ground, which commands a fine view from
the gardens to the south of the sea, of the Isle of Wight and the
Needles. The street is, broad, extending up the hill, and to the top
of It for about half a mile ; on the flat below they make great
great quantity of salt with sea water. I think the duty here at 3s.
a bushel comes to fifty thousand pounds a year. It Is esteemed the
best for salting meat. From Lemington I went by Mllford to
at the beginning of that point on which Hurst Castle stands, which is
the shortest passage to the Isle of Wight, and commands the Streight,
It not being two miles over. This and Calshot, and many other
castles along the coast, were built by Henry VIIL ; the latter Is
to defend the passage up to Southampton. The place we went to
is a creek at the mouth of a rivlet. I went there in order to go
to the Needles, to see the curious manner of diveing which they
CAMD. SOC. S VOL. II.

l30 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
lately began, in order to raise what they could of the wreck of
the man-of-war, which was lately cast away. They are
let down In a machine made of leather, strengthened at the knees
and shoulders, and if I mistake not on the head with brass. There
are two leathern tubes to it — one for the air to go down and to
speak by, the other to pump out the air. They stay down five
minutes. As soon as the man Is let down they ask him how he
does ? and he answers, and they speak to him every minute, and
if he does not answer they draw him up; and sometimes, not
attending to answer, they have drawn up the man when he had
been laying hold of some valuable thing. Sometimes, as it Is
Imagined, when they have gone too far down, they have bled at
the nose and eyes. It is undertaken, if I mistake not, by a com
pany. And whatever is found belonging to that man-of-war is
taken by the king on paying salvage. They go out from Yarmouth
every fine day In summer at a proper time of the tyde. I went
four miles further beyond Milton into tlie road to Christ Church,
and then turning off to the right over the heath came to ,
Lady Mews, and then to liingwood on the River Avon. It is a
long town of manufacturers of narrow cloths, serges, druggets, and
stockins. There is a free school here, with an old inscription over
it. At Horton In Dorsetshire, about six miles from this place, the
Duke of Monmouth was taken, by one Perkins, in some bushes,
where he had hid himself after his defeat at Sedgmore. He was
brought here to the vicar's house, near Blackford. I saw, on the
other side of the river, the seat of S' Pile, and then saw
Ibsley to the right, Mr. Cary's, and Moyle's Court, Mr. Lisle's,
now inhabited by Lord Windsor. We came to Fordingbrldge,
where we cross'd the river ; went through Bremmer, where
S' Edward Hulse has a good old house which the late
and passing Charlford before mentioned, as famous for the defeat
of the Britains under Cerdick the Saxon, we came into Wiltshire
and to Dunkton, a poor long town, where I crossed the river.
Adjoyning to the town Is Mr. Cole's house and garden. The latter

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 131
is very prettily laid out and improved, being on a large old forti
fication with a double fossee improved into terraces above and walks
below, with buildings on two mounts ; the old keeps of the castle,
and the river runs at the foot of It. This was probably the Castle
of Beauvois, Earl of Southampton, who lived here. Below this, I
was Informed, there is a pretty place belonging to.ConiraissIoner
Eyres. I passed by Barford, Lord Feversham's, on that side of
the river, the high road being on the west side. We went by
Mr. Young's, finely situated on an eminence, and saw Langford at
a litle distance. Lord Folkstone's, where a small river falls Into the
Avon. We went near Clarendon Park. King John built two
palaces here. King's Manor and Queen's Manor, where a parlia
ment was held In the time of Henry II, , and also under Edward II.
in 1317. But as the divisions were great between the King and the
Barons no business was done. This place gave title to Edward
Hyde, Earl of Clarendon. There Is a camp near it, said to be
Roman, and between this and the park Is the Roman road between
Winchester and Sarum. I came to the city of Salisbury, of which
I shall give you an account In my next.

Wilton, October , 1754.
I had formerly been at Old Sarum, which is about a mile from
Salisbury ; it is the old for Vio (?) Dunum of the Itinerary, which is
thought to have had Its name from the Emperor Severus, for the
country was call'd Severnia and Provlncia Severonum. Many
coins of Constans Magnentuis and Constantine have been found
here. The situation is very fine and elevated ; it Is defended by a
double rampart and two deep ditches, and was walled round ; great
pieces of the wall are still to be seen. Kennil the Saxon took it In
553. King Egbert frequently resided in this place, and King
Edgar called a Parliament here In 960. Swane the Dane burnt it
in 1003. It began to flourish again after the Synod of 1076, when
it was decreed that all Bishops should live In towns ; and Hernam,

132 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Bishop of Shirbourne and Sunning, encouraged by William the
Conqueror, removed his See to this place, and the next Bishop,
Osmund, built the cathedral. The Conqueror, after he had made
a survey of England, summoned to this place the States of the
kingdom to swear allegiance to him. And the Norman kings often
liv'd and sometimes held their parliaments here. The Insolence of
the soldiers, and scarcity of water, occasioned the inhabitants to
begin to move down to the river, and the castle which belonged to
the Bishop, being seized by King Stephen, who put a garrison Into
It, was looked on as a violation of the rights of the Church, so that
the Church thought of removing also In the reign of Richard the
first. But King John succeeding, the turbulency of the times was
the reason why it was deferred to the time of Henry III. when,
Richard Poor, the Bishop, effected it; and in May, 1228, began
this beautiful cathedral in Merrlfield ; It was finished In 43 years,
and consecrated In the presence of King Henry HI. The steeple of
the church is 400 feet high, and is a most beautiful piece of archi
tecture, and so is the whole church, Inside and out, except the
upper part, which to me seems heavy, consisting of three small
arches under a broad flat arch, which has not a good effect. It is
not so In the cross isle, and it is probable these were made to
strengthen the building, and that too great weight might not bear
on the pillars of the windows. The walls of the spire itself are but
nine inches thick, tho' it Is 150 feet high ; it inclines In some places
both the south and west, supposed to be an original settlement. It
was strengthened with iron hoops in the building, and also by S"^
Christopher Wren. In 1741 it was set on fire by lightening, but
the fire was happily extihguished. The manner how the central
piece of the timber frame hangs to and is fixed by the standard of
the vane, is described in Mr. Prile's account of this cathedral, in
which and S'^ Christopher Wren's are many curious observations on
this beautiful fabrick. They had a strange way of diverting them
selves, which Bishop Sherlock put a stop to, as really prejudicial
to the building, which was to go out of the window of this tower.

DE. EICHARD POCOCKE. 133
near the top by the knobs to the weathercock, and also of going
about the leads and doing much mischief.
The church is 480 feet long, the cross Isle 232 long, the west end
Is 115 broad and 130 high, and the three isles 102, the heigth of
the walls of the nave Is 90 feet, the top of the rooffing 115 and
within 84. The ceiling of the quire is painted with the represen
tation of persons mentioned In sacred writ, and the sides In scrolls.
It is arch'd with chalk, and the church Is built of the stone of
Chilmarsh, twelve miles distant. The Inner pillars are of Purbeck
marble laid as in the quarry, and the outer are of the same
polished, not as laid In the quarry, which is the cause of Its
splitting. St. Mary's Chapel, at the east end, is a wonderful piece of archi
tecture, the vault of which seems to be supported by six very
slender pillars of polished Purbeck marble. It Is supposed they
were supported by frames of timber, till the arch was finish'd ; this
is reckoned a very bold piece of architecture, to make these small
pillars support such arches. The cloyster and chapter house are
supposed to be of the execution of the first architect. The latter Is
an octagon, the arch of which Is supported by one pillar In the
middle. There are fifty-two stalls in It, the old number of the
monks of the chapter, and over them Is cut, in small alt relief,
pieces of sacred history.
The belfry on the north side of the west end is of the same archi
tecture as the cloyster and chapter house ; in the center of It a
single pillar of Purbeck stone, set as it lay in the quary, supports
the floors, bells, timber, tower, and spire, covered with lead. This
building is so solid, that I should thinly it originally designed for a
high tower after the old way. As to things remarkable in the
church : — in St. Mary's chapel is the monument of the Stouretons,
and a wire hung up in remembrance of the execution, as mentioned
before. On the north side of St. Mary's Chapel Is the chapel and
burial place of the Hungerford s ; an additional building, as on the
south side Is that of . In the nave is the tomb of a boy with

134 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
a mitre ; 'tis said a bishop was chosen annually on St. Nlch^ Day
out of the choristers for the twelve days, and that the child died for
joy. I rather imagine that In their processions at that time, one of
them represented some particular bishop, as they frequently repre
sented saints and angels in those processions. Lord Chancellor
Windham's monument Is at the lower end of the church, with an
epitaph (as It Is said) writ by himself There are two or three
old monuments of bishops brought from Old Sarum, and many
monuments of the bishops of this church. Bishop Sherlock took
care with great assiduity to get the church put in thorough repair;
part is at his own expence, the rest was done by the chapter, and by
voluntary subscriptions to the amount of above£l,200. Bishop Ward
procured the Chancellorship of the Noble Order of the Garter, to be
restored to the bishops of Salisbury, after it had been in lay hands
130 years. The close, which is the south west part of the city. Is
encompassed with a high wall, not much less than a mile in circum
ference. The bishop's house, with a chapel belonging to it, is at the
south east part of it. The house was sold In the great rebellion to
Venting, a taylor, who pull'd It down and sold the materials. The
deanery is opposite to the west end, and most of the members of the
chapter have houses on that side. The north side Is mostly let out,
and there are very good buildings on it. Bishop Ward founded
a college here for clergymen's widows who are ten or twelve, and,
if I mistake not, have twenty pounds a year. In the time of
Henry VII. Old Sarum was entirely deserted ; New Sarum being
at the confluence of the Willey and the Avon is happy in a great
command of water. Tho' the Earls of Salisbury had their seat in
the castle for some time after the town was diserted, which had
been disputed with the Bishop, and was to have been decided by
combat, but King Edward III. forbid it, least he should loose his
right, and the matter being compounded, the Bishop paid a sum of
money for it. The streets are laid out regularly, and streams of
water brought through all of them. In the square, the first old
townhouse, built of frames of wood. Is still standing, and the citizens,

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 135
having obtained leave of the Bishop, fortifyed the town on the east
side with a large rampart, great part of which is still remaining and
is called . There are a great number of gentlemen's houses
in the town, especially about the Close, and I saw in the garden of
one of them, through which the river passes, very large fish, if I
mistake not both carp and trout, the running water being fenced
in such a manner as to keep 'em in.
This town Is famous for cutlery ware, bone lace, and for a manu
facture of linsey woolsey. They also make flannels, druggets, and
cloths called Salisbury whites for the Turkey trade, but these are
all much decay'd. What has greatly contributed to make the town
flourish was a liberty a Bishop obtained, when the church was first
built, to have the western road turn'd this way, which before went
through Wilton, the decay of which town is dated from that time.
A navigation of the Avon was begun some years ago, but was
brought only within two miles of it. Bishop Ward was a great
benefactor to it. To the east of the Close is a suburb called Harn-
hambridge. Here was the College de Vaulx, built by Bishop Brid-
port in 1260, for scholars who> as it is said, retired to this place on
some disturbance at Oxford. But whatever gave rise to it, I take
it to have been In the nature of a seminary for young persons to be
educated under the Bishop's eye, who were to be ordained by him ;
on a certificate from their Chancellor they took degrees at Oxford.
And this continued to Leland's time.
From Salisbury I went to Wilton, and from that place to Litle
Dunford, Mr. Young's, a very pleasant place on the Avon, having
a great command of water. There are some statues here at the
angles of a piece of water. They were 'given him by Thomas Earl
of Pembroke, and, it is said, were the design of Inigo Jones, exe
cuted at Florence. They are naked figures in lead, and painted.
They relate to some uncommon water diversions, particularly of the
bever, the swan, &c., and were in the grotto at Wilton. He has
built a litle room in which there are some good landscapes. On
the down over it, Mr. Young has planted some clumps of trees. In

136 THE TEAVBLS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
one of them is a curious hermitage, adorned with Gothic grotesque
figures. Opposite to the entrance are these verses :
le me retire
En tems jespere.
To the right under an urn is this inscription —
If you -would rest in peace bury these bones.
Here lye interr'd a skeleton found in this place in 1754.
Near this spot also were found In 1734 two urns with bones in
them. There were two low barrows at this place in which these
antiquities were found. From this place there is a fine view of the
large village of Wooford, which abounds in trees. Blandford, Oct. , 1754.
I left, Wilton on the 5th, and ascended the downs to the south,
pass'd by the 4th and 5th stone in the way from Salisbury to
Shaftsbury, and cross'd the down passing by a barrow, and de
scended to Bishops town on that river which falls into the Avon at
Langeford, h^ Folkestone's. There Is a mount at the entrance to
the village, and great remains of an old convent, as I was informed
it was. We ascended up to Chase, belonging to the Earl
of Pembroke, and descended to a valley, which Is the bounds be
tween Wiltshire and Dorsetshire, and came up to Fendltch Wood.
I observed here an old Roman road, which seemed to be In the
direction as from Winchester to Dorchester, and coming to Cran-
bourn Chase I cross'd it and observed a great trench brought down
the hill and carried about a mile along the plain northward, within
it are some barrows and a long one that is about half a furlong
round, and coming up to the top of the hill saw Pentrldge Hill
Camp, over a village of that name ; then descending and going
to the south-west passed near Bowridge, a pleasant well wooded
village on a hill, the seat of Mr. Hooper, a.-.d crossing a vale
went by Napper's Barrow and descended to a poor small town.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 137
call'd Cranborne, consisting chiefly of farmers, a few shops, and Cranborne.
publick houses ; it belongs to the Earl of Salisbury, who has a
good old seat here of hewn stone, which seems to have been built
about the beginning* of the last century. Robert Cecil, who had
been Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, was created by King
James Viscount Cranborne, and afterwards Earl of Salisbury. It
was said there was a monastery here, built by King Edward the
Elder. The river in winter rises near Bowridge, but in summer
they have no water, n6r less than half a mile below it where the
springs always flow, and the river falls into the Stour near Christ-
church. This place is 12 miles from Salisbury, 14 from Shaftes
bury, ten from Blandford, eight from Winborn Minster, and con
sequently but six from Badbury Hill, where I had been in my
journey to the Land's End in 1750. I saw in the church here
some old monuments of the Hawle's, of Mount Town. Cranborne
is in the high road from Poole, Wareham, and Wimborn Minster
to Salisbury. On the 6th I went two miles to St. Giles Wimborn,
commonly called St. Giles, where Lord Shaftesbury has a seat.
In a saloon are pictures of the family. In another large room lately
finished In a very elegant manner are some fine pictures of Caspar
Poussin, Claud Lorain, and others, and one of Nicholas Poussin, the
story of the Levite and the Harlot. In another large room are
family pictures, as that of the first Lord Shaftesbury, who was
Chancellor, and four daughters of the present Lord's grandfather, each
having the emblems of one of the four elements, with Latin poetry
under them, relating to those subjects. There is a sleeping apart- St. Giles.
ment on this floor, and I observed some Chinese figures made with
shells in China. The gardens are very^ beautifully laid out, in a
serpentine river, pieces of water, lawns, &c., and very gracefully
adorn'd with wood. One first comes to an Island in which there
is a castle, then near the water is a gateway, with a tower on each
side, and passing between two waters there Is a fine cascade from
the one to the other, a thatch'd house, a round pavilion on a mount,
Shake Spear's house, in which is a small statue of him, and his
CAMD. SOC. T VOL. II.

138 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
works In a glass case ; and in all the houses and seats are books in
hanging glass cases. There is a pavilion between the waters, and
both a Chinese and stone bridge over them. I saw here a sea
duck which lays in rabbits' burrows, from which they are call'd
burrow ducks, and are something like the shell drake. There is a
most beautifull grotto finished by Mr. Castles of Marybone ; it con
sists of a winding walk and an anti-room. These are mostly made
of rock spar, &c., adorn'd with moss. In the inner room is a great
profusion of most beautiful shells, petrifications, and fine polished
pebbles, and there is a chimney to it which is shut up with doors
covered with shells, in such a manner as that it does not appear.
The park also is very dehghtful, and there is a building in it. The
present Lord has no children, Middleton, Oct. 1754.
In two miles from St. Giles I passed Lower Gllsset, where Mr.
Daimour, brother to Lord Milton, has a seat. About two miles
further I went near Chettle, where there is a very large house, the
seat of Mr. Chaffin, and in a mile came to Gunfield, near which
village is Eastbury, the seat of Mr. Dodington, built on a rising
Eastbury. ground on the design of Vanbrugh, consisting of the main body,
with a square tower at each corner, and two wings on each side ;
the wings next to the middle court are faced with a colonade of
twenty-two arches ; in one is the kitchen and offices belonging to
it ; over it are about twelve lodging rooms, on the other side are
the stables; over them a billiard room and three or four bed
chambers, the other offices are divided by a narrow court, and
joyned at one end by an octagon tower, one of which Is a sort of a
steward's dining room, the others is designed for a chapel. It is
built ¦ chiefly of Melbury stone, six miles to the north ; the orna
ments are of Portland stone. It is said the carriag of the materials
of this house cost £20,000, and the whole not less than £200,000.
It was begun to be built by Mr. Dodington's uncle, and by him
was entailed on a nephew, one Mr, Bubb, who assum'd his uncle's

DR, RICHARD POCOCKE. 139
name, and then on Lord Cobham and his lordship's heir. Earl
Temple; with this condition, that so much should be laid out
yearly to finish the design, as he had only built the offices. The
other offices on one side are laundry, &c., and maid servants' apart
ments, and, on the other, stables and men's rooms. The grand
building consists of eleven windows on a floor in front, and is
adorned with a pediment supported by six rustick pillars, and before
them on the basement, one each side of the stairs, is a large statue
of a sphinx ; one first enters a great hall, and then a most magni
ficent saloon, the whole in stucco, the walls adorn'd with flowers,
&c., gilt, the pediments of the doors supported by pillars all carv'd
and gilt, &c., with a Cupid on each side of each pediment, and a
bust in the middle where the pediment opens, except at the sides,
where in one is the groupe of Cupid and Psyche saluting ; and that
to the garden is an entire pediment, with a recumbent angel on each
side. The top is painted from antique paintings, mostly, I believe,
taken from the illuminations of the old manuscript of Virgil. On
one side of it are two rooms, one a dining-room, in which is a most
beautiful table of Fineered lallo of Siena, wifh pieces chosen out so
as to have a very fine appearance ; and a picture over the chimney
of Lord Strafford and his secretary. The next is the drawing-
room, in which on consoles are the twelve Caesars, the heads in
bronze, the bust in a kind of agate. The walls of both these
rooms, and the cielings of all of them, are stucco, beautifully
adorn'd with flowers and architectonick ornaments gilt, the ceilings
being in compartments ; to each of these are closets in the towers.
On the other side are three rooms. The first is the best drawing-
room, hung with flowered uncutt velvet of Genoua ; and there are
several very fine pictures in it ; to this room there is a closet ; the
next is a dressing-room, hung with green sattin, on each side of
which large flower vases are painted in oyl colours. The room
beyond it Is the best chamber, all furnished with crimson velvet,
and on each compartment a gilt eagle holds in his mouth a golden
horn, the arms of the family ; they are in has relief either of thick

140 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
paper or past board. There are several fine tables of the green
Sicilian marble and oriental flowered alabaster, &c. Above are
very handsome lodging rooms ; in one Is the picture of the Farrier
of Antwerp, promising to make himself a compleat limner, with the
pencil, &c., in his hand, addressing himself to his mistress; he is a
very fine figure and has but litle drapery on him, whether it was
his own performance I could not certainly learn. There are good
bedchambers over these apartments, and the chimney-pieces are
mostly rustick, with the spar fixed on between the stones, which is
found at Benson, about five miles off, and has a good effect. To
the saloon and hall there are as mezaninis above the windows ; and
the low rooms over them lighted by the arch'd tops of those win
dows, and they appear as one window on the outside. The gentle
man who amassed this wealth together was paymaster to the navy
in Queen Anne's wars. The gardens are well laid out, lawns,
clumps, and some walks of trees in the old way, and there Is an
open pavilion at the further end of the garden, with a pediment in
front supported by columns. Dorchester, Octr. 1754.
From Gunfield I came four miles to Blandford, passing by Pim
pern Barrow on the down over Pimpern, which may be a hundred
yards long and about ten broad ; near half a mile to the east Is, as I
was informed, such another call'd Hinketon Barrow, being near a
village of that name; this I saw plainly, Mr. Dodington having
planted a clump of trees on it. From Pimpern we went over
another down to Blandford, and at the descent two piers are very
judiciously placed, opposite to Mr, Portman's house, which I shall
have occasion to mention, and is in a bottom on the other side of
the river, and would not otherwise be observed from the road,
tho' it is famous for one of the most beautiful terraces in the world.
Blandford is pleasantly situated on the river Stoure, consists
cheifly of a street about half a mile long and another which meets
Blandford. it at right angles. The town is well-built having been burnt down

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 141
in Queen Elizabeth's time, and again In 1731. There are many
good inns and shops in the town and they have a considerable trade
in malt ; it is a great thorough fare to the west. They have a very
handsome church of hewn stone, built by the contributions after the
fire, and the roof Is supported by lonick pillars. In it is burled Mr.
Creech, who is mentioned as the father of the learned, much admired,
and much envied Mr. Creech, Fellow of All Souls College, Oxon.
There is also a monument here with this inscription on it: — '' In
memory of Christopher Pitt, Clerk, A.M. very eminent for his talents
in Poetry and yet more for the universal Candor of his mind and
the primitive simplicity of his manners. He lived innocent and died
beloved, April 13th 1748, aged 48." The town house is a very
handsom building on a good style of architecture. It has not sent
members to Parliament since the reign of Edward III. On the 7th
I went a mile to Brianstown, Mr. Portman's, originally a Berkeley,
but has estates by inheritance with the Portmans and Seymours
from the present Duke of Somerset's family, which two names he
bearS. It is a large building In this shape ~|- The right side Is a
good pile of two stories handsomly adorned, with round pillars of
the Dorick and lonick order ; the other part is lately new cased in
the modern way. It is situated on the river, which by art Is made
to form an island, near which is a delightfuU lawn and plantations ; Brianston.
from this there is a gentle ascent for a quarter of a mile, to a high
natural terrace which extends near to Blandford, and is almost
three-quarters of a measured mile long, being a beautiful hanging
ground. About three quarters of it towards the house Is so broad
as to have clumps of evergreen and flowering plants on the side
which is towards the road, with winding and cross walks through
them. That end is very steep, and the whole hanging ground is
planted with trees and shrubs and is most charming. From this
place four or five miles off, about Hatton near Sherminster Newtown,
they find in a wood a fine shining sparr. King Edgar gave Sher
minster to the Abbey of Qlastonbury as did Edmond Ironside
Newtown Castle on the other side of the riVer Stoure.

142 THE TEAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
I went on three miles to the south-west to Strickland at the rise
of the rivlet which falls into the Stoure a litle above Winborn, and
we ascended a high hill which commands an extensive view. I saw
from it Shaftsbury, the hill over Mere and Stourton, Mr. Hoare's,
Pool, the Isles of Wight and Purbeck &c. : from this hill we
descended to Middleton, commonly call'd Milton, which place gives
the title of Baron to Mr. Daymour who married Lady Sackvile,
only daughter to the Duke of Dorset, who has a seat here, which
was the old Abbey. This place is situated on a rivlet which falls
Jnto the Puddle, Bere being on the same water abodt four miles
[ below it. An Abbey was first built here by King Athelstan, which
' was afterwards very much improved. The cross isle and the east
part remain, and show that it was a very grand building, the arch
under the tower is lofty and noble ; some fine Gothic work remains,
I which seems to have been over two altars in the south part of the
cross isle and a kind of a model of a Gothick steeple fixed to the
wall, probably over some statue, or it may be over a font. The
high altar seems at first to have been Isolee, but has been raised and
a door placed on each side : on it I saw the following imperfect
inscription — ¦
Orate pro bono Statu et animabus Willelmi Middleton Abbat hujus
almi monasterii, ac etiam Magistrl Thomas .... Sumptibus anno
incarnatlonis Domi nsi Ihii Xti millesimo Quadringentessimo nona-
gesimo sexto.
In another place under a ton which supports a water mill, the
arms of the Abbey, is this date 1418.
In the north isle is this inscription on a monument with the per
son kneeling, in brass, and this label coming out of his mouth : 
Milton. Nos autem gloriari oportet in Cruce Dili nostri Jesu Chrlsti. Here
lyeth buried S' John Tregonnil, Knight, Doctor of the Civil Laws,
and one of the Masters of the Chanceries, who died xii* day of
January in the year of our Lord 1565, whose Soule God save,
Amen. This is I suppose Is the Tregonnel who was Proctor for Henry

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 143
VIIL in suing a divorce from Queen Catherine, to whom he gave
the site and demesne of the Abbey, S'' James Banks, a Swede,
marrying an heiress of this family about the latter end of the last
century, came to the estate. It is said afterward to have come to
the Strachans, and is lately purchased by Mr, Daymour, now Lord
Milton, There are great remains of the Abbey, as a hall with a
fine carved skreen, a date on it of about 1428 ; a room called the
Starchamber, from the wooden deling in compartments adorn'd
with gilt stars ; most of the other rooms are alter'd, but some of the
old building which was very fine remains. Lord Milton is casing it
all round in a beautiful modern taste. The town is a very poor
small place. Sherborn, October 1754.
From Milton we went over a hill and came to a rivlet which\
falls into the river Puddle near Puddleton, and crossed over another
hill to Chiselborn, and over another to a third water at Collier's
Piddle, a fine village, to the north of which is Atton, the late '
Mr. Hescot'sj and traversing another high hill we came to Cerne
town and abbey on the Cerne, which rises at Upcerne. This is a
large poor town, being near a mile in circumference. They make
malt, and are now more famous for beer than in any other place
in this country ; they also spin for the Devonshire clothiers. This,
town owes its rise to the Abbey, which tradition sales was founded
by Austin the Monk ; but some think that it is more probable that
St. Bertinus was the founder of it. In the scite of which and near
the churchyard is his well, for there are no marks of the church,
tho' probably it was where the churahyard is ; it may be to the
east of a peice of a cross now remaining.. There are ruins round Ceme.
the well. To the east of the churchyard are signs of great founda
tions, and particularly of buildings round of two courts, and there
are three or four ruins which seem to have been of round towers.,.
A low ridge of hiUs ends to the north of the abbey, on the west
side of which is a figure cut in lines by taking out the turf and

144 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
showing the white chalk. It Is called the Giant and Hele, is about
150 feet long, a naked figure in a genteel posture, with his left foot
set out ; it is a sort of a Pantheon figure. In the right hand he
holds a knotted club ; the left hand Is held out and open, there
being a bend in the elbow, so that it seems to be Hercules, or
Strength and Fidelity, but it is with such indecent circumstances
as to make one conclude it was also a Priapus, It Is to be sup
posed that this was an ancient figure of worship, and one would
imagine that the people would not permit the monks to destroy it.
The lord of the manner gives some thing once in seven or eight
years to have the lines clear'd and kept open. I came mostly
along the valley in which the Cerne runs to Charminster, where
in the church some of the Trenchard family are buryed. The east
window Is the ancient Saxon arch, which led to the chancel. I
went a quarter of a mile further to Wotton in this parish, the seat
of Mr. Trenchard, a very ancient house built at different several
times. One part next to the garden is handsomly built, with
large windows such as were In use in Queen Ehzabeth's time and
King James I., with fine entablatures and ornaments. They speak
of it as Inigo Jones's design, but I rather take it to be of the archi
tect of Somerset House. There are fine chimney pieces and carved
door frames and wainscoat in the house all of wood ; the skreen of
the old hall is finely carv'd, and the kings of England, small and at
full length, are round this wanscoat. There are a great number of
arms in painted glass all over the house, some of the family, and
many of the abbeys, nunneries, and monasteries in Dorsetshire,
which the family collected at the dissolution of them. There is a
pile of hewn stone building which is for very grand stables. This
house married into the Russel family of Kingston Russel in the
Philip. time of Henry VII. In that reign Ferdinand, coming from
pain. Germany to take possession of the Kingdom of Castile, was drove
into Weymouth. S"" Thomas Trenchard, being the principal
gentleman of the country, waited on him and conducted him to his
house, and acquainted the king of It, who invited him to London.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 145
S' Thomas Trenchard, not understanding foreign languages, had
sent for Mr. Russel, a youngei* brother of the family he had married
into, a very fine young gentleman, who had travelled abroad, and
understood the languages. The king asked S' Thomas Trenchard
if he could serve him, who, declining any thing for himself, said
if he had an opportunity to recommend Mr. Russel to the king he
would be obliged to him ; and when he mentioned him to King
Henry VII. he said he had taken particular notice of him, and had
him in his thoughts to serve him. He took him into his court,
made him a peer, and this Is the ancestor of the Duke of Bedford ;
and the elder branch falling, the estate of Kingston now belongs
to the duke. See Eckard's History, p. 618. Wine Cauuton, Oct' 1754.
From Wotton I went a mile to Dorchester. About half way I
observed signs of foundations and remains of a trench drawn down
to the liver near Burton farm house, and passed by a hamlet called
Frome Whitfield, where they say the old parish church of Dorchester
was, and It Is now^ in one of the parishes, the church of which is in
the town. They have a tradition that the town was anciently about
these places, and, if so, it is probable that it was before the time of
the Romans. Dorchester is very finely situated on an eminence
over the Froome. It was certainly a Roman town by the name of
Durnovaria, Durnium, and Dunicenl. It was one of the two winter
stations of the Legion Vindo gladia ; Wimborne is supposed to be
the other. It is said it had two mints In the time of the Saxons,
The square entrenchment round the town is remaining, on which
probably the Roman walls were built, of which there are not the
least remains, for the Danes are said to have demolished the castle,
aod probably they demolished the walls of the town also. The
Saxons are said to have a castle here, too, which might be that of
the Romans. What is called the Castle is on the north side of the
town over the river, but there are no remains of the walls. The Dorchester.
Normans are said to have rebuilt the Castle, and the litle ruins of
CAMD. SOC. U VOL. II.

146 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
old walls on the west side of the town are probably those of the
Normans, for they are of bad masonry. Fprthampton is a village
and church just at the north-east corner of the town, the high part
of which seems also to have been in some measure fortifyed. The
town consists chiefly of one long street, another which meets it at
right angles, and one that runs paralel with the first. It is well
built, and there are several good old houses in it. The principal
street commands a view of M"^ Pitt's house and plantations at
Kingston, near a mile from the town. In St, Peter's Church is the
monument of S'' Denzill Holies, Lord Ifled, who died in 1699, to
whom the Duke of Newcastle of that time was heir. Here Is also
a monument to the memory of S"^ John Williams of 1628, In the
garden of the Free School they lately found a rough mosaick pave
ment. This school is a good building, and there is a library to it.
It was founded by the Nappers, a considerable family in these parts.
They show some very litle remains of a fryery on the river. I
could not be informed whether this is A.shby le Frieri mentioned In
the map. They have a manufacture of linsey woolsey at about
fourteen pence a yard, they make malt, and are famous for beer ;
but the chief support of the town is the thoroughfare to Exeter,
and the nobility and gentry who live near It. There are two
Roman roads go from this town, one to Weymouth, the other to
Bridport, and it's thought to Exeter, and is supposed to be Ikeneld
Street. From the town I went about a quarter of a mile to the
ancient amphitheatre called Mernesbury. It seems to remain in its
ancient state, and is neither circular nor oval, but something of the
shape of two Gothick flat arches joyned together In its length ; jt
consists of a rampart about sixteen yards broad at bottom, and
thirty-six feet high; it Is about fifty-four paces broad and sixty-six
long. The entrance Is ten yards wide, and opposite to it at the
other end Is a gentle ascent. On the right hand at the entrance is
a hollow a litle way up, as if the place of some particular officer.
From these sort of entrances at each end there is a terrace, which
is form'd In an ascent on each side from the ends, and widens to the
middle, where it is three yards in breadth and six yards high, or

DB, EICHAED POCOCKE. 147
half the heigth of the whole ; this seems to have been for spectators
to stand on. At top there rises a narrow rim, I think all round,
on the outside, and is only about a yard broad, and may be about
eighteen Inches high, the whole breadth at top being about 9 feet, if
I do not mistake. In the middle on each side the ground is a litle
raised for about six yards as in a semicircle, but higher on each side
than in the middle. This is a singular work, and seems to have
been raised by skooping out the ground within, and taking it all
round in such a manner as no hollow or unevenness appears. Near
the town to the west is a Roman camp, which may be a quarter of
a mile square ; it is continued to the hanging ground over the
river, and is a fine situation ; there is a narrow terrace below it,
and the approaches to the west of the rising ground seem to have
been helped by art, so as to make it stronger. This is call'd
Pomeroy, probably from the Latin Pomaerlum. I went about a
mile to an ancient British camp on a hill that is not high, called
Maiden Castle; it is a very strong entrenchment with three deep
fossees round it, and a fourth at each end to defend the entrance.
From this camp I saw to the east, came Mr. Daymore's new house
wliich is now building. This continued probably to be the head
camp of some empire in this island for a considerable time; I should
think rather of some ancient British kingdom than of the Saxons.
And that chain of camps to the east might be sort of fortresses
against this power, as Badbury, and, as I was Informed, Woodbury,
near Wareham, Hamilton Hill, four miles west of Blandford, and,
it may be, Bulbarrow, which I saw when I went to Sherborn, and
is on the Piddle, above Colliers Piddle, and the camp of ,
near Cranborne, and the great lines I saw drawn from the hills
near it, tho' I did not observe on which side they were a defence,
tho' if I mistake not were to defend the country from the eastern
people. I saw a great number of barrows along the hills to the
south which I had observed in the way to Weymouth in 1750. I
pass'd by a large bairrow in the bottom to the north-west with a
small one near it, and one made in a circle with a small fossee
round it. This probably was the tomb of the monarch.

148 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Brnton, Octr. 1754.
On the 9th I set forward for Sherborn, the road being on the
Downs between the Puddle and the river Cerne, and saw those
places I had passed two days before, and about the rise of the Cerne
saw Lady Ablngton's seat of MInterne. We descended the hill into
that valley which they call Blakemore, and the vale of White hart,
through which the several rivlets run that fall into the Stoure and
into the Parrot that runs into the Severne near Huntspill. We
came to Sherbourn, which is pleasantly situated on one of those
streams, great part of it being on the side of a hill over the river.
It was made an episcopal see in 704 by Ina, King of the West
Saxons. In King Ethelred's time Herman, Bishop of Sunning,
Sherborn being advanced to this see, united Sunning to it, and transfer'd the
see to this place, which In the time of the Conqueror was removed to
Sarum, the bishop keeping his house here for a place of retirement.
But when Henry VIIL erected a new see at Bristol, Dorsetshire
was made part of that see. Soon after the translation of this see to
Salisbury, the Cathedral was turn'd into an Abbey Church. There
are great remains of old buildings about the Church, and one that
seems to have been the refectory. In the Church the arches on
which the steeple stands, those at the end of the isles and the south
porch are of Saxon architecture, and there is some remains of that
style at the west end, before which I judg'd there had been a grand
portico; and they have a notion that the church extended to the
west as far as the houses, as they find foundations in digging graves,
which is a proof that some buildings were formerly there. This old
building is probably of the time of Herman, who translated the see
of Sunning to this place. It is mentioned that at the entrance of
the church, probably in the portico, two Saxon kings, Ethelbald and
Ethelbert lye buryed, but, I met with no account of it here. In the
time of Henry VI,, in a quarrel between the people of the town and
the monks, the church was burnt and the townsmen were obliged
to rebuild it, probably in the form it is now in, which is very beau-

DB. EICHAED POCOCKE. 149
tiful both in the arch and windows, and what Is particular, the whole
church Is adorned with the same kind of carv'd ornaments as the
windows. In a chapel of the church is a fine costly monument
ornamented with pillars and statues of Lord Digby in 1698 ; there
are also, monuments of others of the family, and in the same chapel
is the monument of an abbot. In another chapel to the west there
is one of the Fitz James's In Queen Elizabeth's days ; there are also
monuments here of the Ghlchesters and of S"^ John Hausy. As this
church was built by the town, they were very desirous to get it into
their possession at the Reformation, and they keep it in great order.
And to enable them to purchase It, it is said they destroyed three
churches and four chapels. Adjoyning to the church is a very good
freeschool founded by King Edward VI., in which there is a statue
of him. And there is also an almshouse founded by Robert Nevil,
Bishop of Salisbury, in 1448, They have an old cross in the lower
town, and another, which appeared to me to have the statue of St,
Andrew on it, Adjoyning to Sherborn is Castletown, with a new
built church to it, atid it Is said they have a distinct market, Roger,
the third Bishop of Salisbury, built a castle here, but King Stephen
was so offended at it that he took possession of it, and It was kept
by the Crown till in 1330 Bishop Wivll recovered it. Some part
of this building seems to be older than King Stephen's time, there
being one window of very ancient Saxon architecture in a tower ; It
may be built before the rest of the castle. There are ornaments of
arches intersecting each other In one part, and an old Saxon pillar
remains as if It had been the supporter of an arch. In some of the
walls is the Roman style of building, two or three tiers of common
stones, and two tiers of flat stones to Jjind them. The inner gate
consists of a regular Roman architrave, and the whole is well
defended by a deep fossee. Near it is a good old house call'd the
lodge, belonging to Lord Digby, who Is improving the place., On
May 16th, 1709, a hail storm so fill'd a torrent which came
down the hill that the water was two feet ten inches high in the
church. Mr. Seymour 'nas a very good house and offices on the

150 THE TEAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
high part of the town. Sherborn is in the high road to the west, by
the way of Shaftsbury, as well as a passage from Bath to Dor
chester and Weymouth. They have a manufacture of buttons and
bone lace, and it is computed there are 20,000 souls in the town.
The Prince of Orange was met here by the Prince of Denmark, the
Dukes of Ormond and Grafton, and Lord Marlborough, who left
King James at Salisbury, and thereby contributed to make It a most
peaceable revolution. Devizes, Oct. 1754.
On the tenth I left Sherborn, and coming into Somersetshire had
a fine view of the vale in which the Parret runs, on which river
below Sherborn stand Ilchester, Langport, and Weston, and on
another branch Queen Camell. We descended into the vale having
a view to the east of the hills on which stand Pen and Stoureton,
from which we were not above two or three miles. We ascended
to Wine Caunton, situated in a romantic manner on the side of a
V ' hill, being but a poor place ; they have a manufacture of spinning
thread and woollen yarn. It is said an urn was found here lately
\ full of Roman money. We went on two miles to Redllnch, the seat
~of Lord Ilchester, eldest son of S' Stephten Fox ; he Is married to an
heiress, the only daughter of Mrs. Horner. It is a handsom pile of
building, with two grand offices on one side of it, all built of the
freestone of the couhtry, with window frames of freestone. The
house is well finished within, and there are many good pictures in
it. The ground of the park is very fine, and there is a large piece
of water before the house. I went on two miles to a pretty good
town called Bruton, situated on the side of a hill over that river, on
Bi-uton. which Glass'enbury stands. The church Is an handsom light
Gothick building, and the chancel has been rebuilt, and is kept in
great order by Mr. Berkley, younger son of the late Lord Berkley
of Stratton, whose plain neat monument, in the Roman taste, is put
up in the chancel, and near it one In the same manner to his second
son, Captain Wllham Berkley, who died in 1733, commander of the

DB. EICHAED POCOCKE. 151
Tyger, in a voyage from Guinea ; here is also an old monument of
this family, with couchant statues on it without any inscription, and
another to the memory of S"^ William Godolphin, of the county of
Cornwall. There is an old chapel under ground, the arch over
which is supported by three rows of pillars, three or four in a row,
and is about ten feet high, and extends farther to the west than the
chancel; this is the burial place of the Berkley family. In the
churchyard is a monument with this Inscription :
Pulvis et ossa Sumns
Cadavera ante hac jacentia
In Ossnario
Sub Aditn
Hujnsee EcclesioB
Sub hoc Marmore Condita
Jussu Honorabilis C. Berkley
Anno 17-3.
The monastery, with its demesne, was given by Henry VIIL to
S"^ Maurice Berkley, ancestor of the present lord, this family having
been fixed in this place ever since the time of Edward IL I aid
not see the free school, said to be founded by Edward the VI.
There is an alms house for twelve boys and twenty-two men and
women. Under the founder's bust is this inscription :
Henry Saxey, Esq',
Founder of this Almshouse,
Auditor to Queen Eliaabeth
And King James.
I saw several stones here full of shells, which are dug at Kineton,
near Somerton, and all the stones of thege valleys are of the shelly
kind. From Bruton I rid twelve measur'd miles to Froome, passino-
by Nunney Castle, on a rivlet which falls Into the Froome, and saw
Marston, the seat of Lord Orrery, within half a mile from the road,
of which places I have before given an account. I came by Philips
Norton to Bath.

152 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Bath, Oct. 1754.
On the 14th I went by Mr. Allen's house, turn'd off at the
Quarries to the left, descended to Comb, and from that village came
into the turnpike road to a bridge over Comb brook, and by Brad
ford into Wiltshire, and coming near Stoke, crossed over the Avon
and went by WInsley to Bradford, seven miles from Bath, which is
a place I have formerly mentioned, and crossing the Avon I came
by three miles, and cross'd the river Froome into Somer
setshire at Farley Castle, of which the old enclosure remains over
the river defended by round towers, but the castle it self has been
destroyed. Mr. Camden seems to be mistaken in saying, that
Farley. Humphrey Bohun built a monastery here ; for that I apprehend
was at Monkton Farley, near Clarendon Park, not far from Salis
bury. But what the place is famous for is the monuments of the
great family of the Hungerfords in a chapel in the castle belonging
to them. One is cut out in lines, being a figure at full length,
with a defaced inscription round it of Walter Hungerford, said to
be of the thirteenth century. At the south-east corner of the
church is a tomb, with this Inscription on it :
Tyme tryeth truth. Walter Hungerford, Knight, who lyeth here, and Edward
his son. To God's mercy in whom we trust for ever. Anno D" 1585, the vi. of
Desb. '
The motto, they say, relates to his having forfeited the estate
and its being restored to him again.
On the opposite side, between the chapel and their particular
burial place, is the monument of 8"^ Thomas Hungerford, and of
John Hungerford, with their couchant statues. They have a
tradition that the former was Speaker of the House of Commons.
In the middle of the Chapel, to the north, is the fine monument of
Sir Edward, Knight of the Bath, son of Antony of Black Oourton,
in Oxfordshire, and of his wife Lucia, daughter of Thomas Ash ;
he dyed in 1648, aged 52. Near it is a plain tomb of S"^ Edward,
of 1607, who was 'uncle of the above Lucia, and from whom she

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 153
had the estate. On the fine monument also is a memorial of Mar
garet, daughter of Holyday and his wife Susanna, who was after
wards Countess of Warwick, The two marble couchant statues on
the monument are fine statuary, highly polished, as Is the white
tomb ; they lye on a black marble polished slab, eight feet long,
five wide, and seven inches thick ; the ornaments of foliage and
flowers at the angles and the arms of white marble are finely
polished. In another part is a small monument set in the wall to
Mrs. Mary Shaa, of 1613, daughter of Walter Lord Hungerford,
who 'tis said was beheaded by Henry VIIL, and hey re general to
S' Edward Hungerford. The last of the family, who died about
years ago, spent an estate of £14,000 a year and 80 thou
sand pounds, and died in Spring Garden supported by charity.
The top of the Communion-table is a piece of fine marble, not
well polished ; they call it Egyptian, but it seems to be one of our
pieces of marble, which consists of several pebbles cemented
together. I came home by Charterhouse Hinton, In the turnpike
road from Froome, and by Midford, where the two brookes meet of
Combhay and Twiney ; and going near Southstone came to Bath.
On the 15th I saw Mr. Allen's gardens, which are laid out in
wilderness, with a piece of water in the middle, from which there
is a descent, on each side of which are beautiful meadows arising
up the hill ; on one side Is a new Gothick building, higher up is a
statue of Moses with his hand striking the rock, and below it a
beautifull cascade falls down about twenty feet ; a little higher is
the building of the Cold Bath. The center of the. gardens com
mands a fine view of Bath. I took a ride round by Combe to
Hampton Down, where I observed greal remains of foundations of Mr. Allen's,
walls, which made me conjecture that this heigth might be inha
bited, in times of danger, as a place of security. Part of this ride
was In the walks and woods which Mr. Allen has made for ten or
twelve miles round, taking In Hampton and Claverton downs.
Another day I went by Bathwick to Bathampton, where, having
rebuilt the west part of the church-, the old belfery I formerly men-
CAMD. SOC. X VOL. II,

154

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

tioned was destroyed ; but I observed at the east end of the church
a very particular mezzo-relievo set in the wall, cut within the sur
face of the stone ; the drapery and every part of it very uncommon.
I saw also, in the churchyard, as taken out of the church, the tomb
Quaere, if not of a Knight of St. John of Jerusalem, with a shield and dagger ;
cross^g'd there Is also the statue of a woman with a remarkable dress, and a
figure ? large bead, if I mistake not, In her hand.

Melksham

Devizes.

Great Bedwin, Octr. 1754.
On the 18th of October I left Bath and went five miles and a half
in the London road, coming into Wiltshire a litle beyond Bathford.
In two miles we came to Alfbrd, where at Mr. Claiden's house I
observed an old building like the remains of a convent. We crossed
the Avon three miles further at Milsom, a small clothing town in
which there are several good houses. I saw Bromham steeple to
the left, Spree Park and Bod en Hill over which they go to London,
and Lacock near it. Milsom Is four miles from Troubridge, five
from Bradford, seven from the Devizes and from Calne. In about
two miles we came to Seen, another wealthy village, with several
good houses in it, and a churchyard most delightfully situated,
commanding a view of the vale towards Troubridge to the west, and
Lavington to the south-east. Five miles more brought us to the
Devizes, 88 miles from London, from Salisbury, 18 from Bath,
and about six from Lavington. A low hill extends from east to
west, and here dividing into three parts ; the old town and castle
are on the middle part, the new town to the north, and part of the
old town extends to the southern part of the hill. The town con
sists chiefly of two streets in length stretching along the northern
part of the hill, and one street of communication; the principal
street to the west is broad, and there are several good houses in it.
There are two good churches, St. Marie's to the north and St. John's
to the south ; the former is a good Gothick building. In the latter
are some remains of a very ancient church, that is, the tower and
east end with ornaments within of arches intersecting each other.

DB. EICHAED POCOCKE. 155
On the outside is a Saxon comiche ; there are capitals of pillars
adorned with triangles four rows one over another, two above and
two below the swell of the capital, and placed in the Quincunx
order. In the churchyard an obelisk was erected in 1751, with an
inscription on it to this purpose : — That a man, his wife, sister,
and another man were drowned in the flower of their youth In a
pond near the town called Drew's pond, on Sunday, June 3d,
1751. On another side Is this Inscription :
" This monument, as a useful monitor to young people to remember their
Creator in the days of their youth, was erected by subscription."
On another part —
" Remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy."
The castle is said, but 'tis thought without foundation, to have
been built by Dunwallo, King of the Britains, and there was a
tradition it was built by King Alfred; but the last founder of it
was Roger Bishop of Salisbury, who, falling into disgrace with
King Stephen, the king seiz'd on this and the castle of Sherborn,
belonging also to the bishop. It was esteemed one of the strongest in
Europe. S"^ William (Ralph?) Hopton was shut up in it by S' William
Waller, which occasioned the battle called Roundway Down fight,
from the hills near the town, on July 13th, 1640. The castle is
now entirely demolished ; there are two windmills on the keep or
inner part ; it is defended by two very strong fossees ; the rampart
of the inner one and the fossee of it extends into the gardens to the
east, and houses are built that way on the outermost rampart ; the
rest is all an orchard. They have a handsom town-house and
wool-hall for the weekly wool-market. On the old market-house
they have an Inscription to this purpose : — that in January last year
a woman joyned with two others in buying a sack of wheat, and
each, as supposed, had paid their proportion. Money was wanting,
every one said she had paid her due, the innocent in such a
manner as made them fix on the other, who wished if she had
not paid it she might immediately drop down dead! which she

156 THE TEAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
did, as 'tis said, to the astonishment of the crowded multitude,
and they found upon her exactly the sum that was wanting.
They have a market for wool and cattle and some corn. They
have found Roman coins and ancient urns here, and particularly
some brass Lares in 1714, between three fiat stones, and cover'd
with a Roman brick. These were shown about England, and are
engrav'd in Dr. Musgrave's Dissertation on them, and they say on
the edge of Roundway Hill, which overlooks the town, there is a
single trench'd camp, which they say is Roman ; and I saw a hill to
the south which appeared to me to be fortified and in that situation.
Leaving the Devizes, in about three miles I ascended Roundway
Hill ; at the top of this hill, at Shepherds Shord, Is Wansdike, whith
probably has its name from Woden, or Mercury, the God of bounds.
It is supposed by some to be the bounds between the kingdom of the
West Saxons and the Mercians. Crossing this whole county the
fossee is to the east. Others think it older than the Mercian king
dom, and that it was made by Cerdic, the first king of the West
Saxons. A litle below It is a very slight enclosure, like a field,
with five entrances on one side and several on the others, which, if
a military work, seems rather to be for the tent only of some great
general, and thrown up rather in honour than for any defence.
There are a great number of barrows all the way from this place to
Aybury, which would make me conclude that this had been the
field of some considerable battle. And there are many dikes at
about Stonehenge and other parts, and It is supposed they were only
the bounds of some great lordships. We came to Beckington, near
Silbury, in the London road from Bath, where there is a great inn,
and arrived at Marlborough and Minal. On the 19th, I went into
the London road and cross'd it through Savernac Forest, going near
Mr. Holt's house, and afterwards not far from Lord Bruce's, and
came to Great Bedwin near the rise of a small river, which joynes
another that rises at Shawborn and makes that river on which
Hungerford stands, and soon falls Into the Kennet. Bedwin was
the metropolis of the territory of Cissa, who was Viceroy of Wilt-

DB. EICHAED POCOCKE, 157
shire and Barkshlre. Mr. Camden saies he built a castle to the
south of the town, and less than a mile to the south of it Is Castle Great Bedwin.
Cops and mead on a heigth, where I found some htle remains of a
rampart, and to the .west of it a deep fossee, with a rampart on each
side of it for about a quarter of a mile, at the place where there is at
present a gibbet. But I Imagine the chief place of CIssa's residence
was at a castle a mile to the north-east, called Cisbury. In 675, a Q,^-
bloody battle was fought here between Wulfere and Esewin, It Is
a poor town of farmers, malsters, and publicans. It is a borough,
but all the parishioners do not vote, and those who do not are said
to be of the Privent. The famous physician. Dr. Thomas Willis,
the father of Dr. Brown Willis, was a native of this place.
P.S. — I went about two miles to Shawborn, under Buttermore
Hills, the seat formerly of the Burdetts. Dr. Edward Pococke, the
famous Orientalist and my great-grandfather, of Plawkley, auditor
of the Duchy Court of Lancaster, married two sisters of this family,
and Archbishop Lamplough's son married a daughter of the other
sister, married to the Rev. Mr. Boham, in this county. I passed
through Ham and Inkpen, and near Mr. Sloper's, of Westwoodhay,
and came by Enbourn to Newtown. London, Norember 28th, 1754.
After I left Newtown on the 25th, I went by Sidmounton, the
seat of Mr. Kingsmill, which has been lately much improved. Near
the east end of the house they have built a handsome summer-house,
which commands a view of a piece of water below that appears like
a serpentine river, near which also there is a building, and another
towards the park, I observed, a litle below the camp at Ladle Hill,
a circular tomb,
I crossed the road from Whitchurch to Kingscleer and Basing
stoke, and came in five miles to Overton. To confirm a conjecture
I made, that the Test, on which this town stands, is the old Anton,
I found there was a place call'd Quilhampton, and another Seventon,
probably Seven Anton, for all these names are pronounced short, as

158 THE TBAVBLS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
Southlngton for Southampton. This place Is 54 miles from London,
eight from Basingstoke, threo from Whitchurch, and eleven from
Andover. About a mile below it is Laverstoke, formerly
now Mr. Dawklns's, who travelled into the East with Mr. Bovery,
and the drawings lately published of Palmyra were executed under
his direction. He is making a very fine serpentine river here, as I
suppose, by enlarging the Test. Overton Is a small town ; about 3
miles from it is Mr. Hor wood's, of Dean, and over that late Mr.
Withers, now Mr. Bramston's ; it is situated on an advanc'd ground.
I came through Church Okely and Worting to Basingstoke, situated
on a rivlet near its rise, which falls into that river I formerly men
tioned at Sherfield. It is a large town on the side of a rising
ground, with many good shops in it ; they have a litle manufacture
of serges, horse-cloths, and blankets, but the chief support of the
town is a trade in malt, and it is a great thorough fare from London
to the West. Henry III. in 1261, founded an hospital here, at the
instance and on the estate of Walter de Merton, for the maintenance
of superannuated priests, and after Merton College was founded the
incurable scholars or fellows of it were to be sent to it. Above the
town, to the north, are the remains of a Chapel of the Holy Ghost,
built by William, the first Lord Sandys, who was buryed in it. It
appears to have been a beautiful Gothick building of freestone, lined
with brick ; there are fine niches between the windows and at the
angles of an octagon tower at the west end. The burial place seems
to have been to the north, where some building has joyned, and
there are several hewn stones which may be the remains of a monu
ment. On this spot are tombs of the Cufaudes, of Cufaude, In
this county. One of the ladies of the family is mentioned as grand
child to S'' Richard Rook, Knight of the Garter, and cosln-german
to the Countess of Salisbury, daughter of George, Duke of Clarence;
this was a Roman Catholick family. Close to this chapel is a free
school, which seems to be the remains of an old building, and there
are some foundations from it, near the chapel, as if some fabrick had
extended to the full length of the chapel. A hospital is men-

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE. .159
tioned as founded at Basingstoke by Henry III. for the maintenance
of altar priests.
A mile from this town is Hackwood, a beautifull seat of the Duke Hackwood.
of Bolton's, which I have often seen. The walks, wood, and lawn in
the garden are very fine, and it is adorn'd with statues, particularly
an equestrian statue of
I have formerly been at Alton, ten miles from this town ; it is
famous for a manufacture of baragons, and King Alfred left this
town by will to the keeper of Leodore, and the manner did after
wards belong to Hide Abbey, near Winchester.
On the 26th, after going a mile in the London road, I turn'd to
the left, and in half a mile came to Basing Castle, which is a round
enclosure encompassed with a double ditch ; the inner fossee is very
deep ; the area within is above an acre, the circumference a quarter Basing Castle.
of a mile, and it was made a vineyard in the last century, which has
been destroyed. It stood several sieges against the Parliament
army, and at last was taken under Oliver by storm in 1645, and
the Marquise of Winchester was made a prisoner. He called it
Love Loyalty, and Ayme Loyalte has since that time been the
motto of the family. To the east of it is an enclosure in which they
say were the offices, and they show some vaults which probably
serv'd as well for salleying out as for conveying provisions in time
of a siege. After the Restoration a house was built below the farm
house, which has been since pull'd down, and many of the materials
carried to build the house at Canom Heath. Below the castle is a
bowling green, and a large garden with turrets to it. The east end
of the church is the burial place of the Duke of Bolton's family ; it
is divided in very good taste from the isles by arches, under which •
are plain tombs. Over the arch at entrance to the north isle is this
inscription :
Ad laudem Xti et Mariae Matris hie per j'ohem Poulett Winton haec erecta
con - - tat Anno Dni 1519.
On the first arch to the north, which they call old Joram's monu
ment, is this Inscription :

160 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Hie jacet Johes Poulett miles et Elinor ux - ¦ ej. Qui obierunt mense Septembris
Anno Dni, 1488, 111.
On the next arch is this inscription :
Hie jacet Johes Poulett et Alicia nx. ej. Qui obierunt mense
' This seems to have been erected whUst they were living, and that
the date was not put in after their death.
The first to the south appears to have been a Knight of the Garter,
and tho' no coronet on the arms, there are coronets on two arms in
the angles. Over the arch to the west of it are arms with
on it of an heiress.
In the church is a monument of Charles Duke of Bolton who
died in 1698, and left some benefactions to the parish.
At Basing, Ethelred and Alfred fought the Danes and were beaten.
In half a mile from Basing I crossed the London road, at the Bell,
two miles from Basingstoke ; in half a mile passed by Maplederwell,
where there is a small stream ; in a mile came to Neatley ; here the
hop country begins. I observed a Saxon door to the church, and an
arch at the east end, which probably led to a chancel. One mile
more brought me to Gruelt, where Mr. Toll has a house, and I saw
to the south Mr. Jervais's of Herriards, which seemed to be a fine
plantation. Here I passed the river Ditford, and In half a mile came
to Wamborow on the same river, where there Is a small manufacture
of barge clothes at 3s. 6d., and Medleys at five shillings, both a yard
wide. This river seems to be the bounds between the gravelly
chalky and the sand country beyond It. I went to see Wamborow
Castle on this river, which is an octagon with at the angles
from bottom to top ; the walls are twelve feet thick, built of flint,
and seem to have been cased with hewn stone Inside and out. The
sides within are eighteen feet long ; it consisted of a ground floor, the
grand floor over it, and a sort of attick over that, each floor having
a window or door in each side ; except the side of the chimney, which
was only to the middle floor, the area it stands in is an oblong square
of about an acre, encompassed with a wet fossee ; to the east is

DB, EICHAED POCOCKE, 161
another area of about half an acre, with such a fossee round it, and
there Is a double fossee to the south and north, tho' the river runs
near the south side ; but on the west side the river and morass serve
as a defence instead of a second fossee. It was defended fifteen days Warnborough
by thirteen men against the Barons, in King John's time, and In
the reign of Edward III., David King of Scots was kept prisoner
here. This.is called by historians the Castle of Odiham, tho' It Is a
mile from the town, and is mentioned as a royal seat and palace,
and Warnborow may be a new name to this hamlet, it being in the
parish of Odiham.
At this town Mr. Kenton has a house, which seems to be on the
site of the old monastery and some other ruins still
remaining. In the church are monuments of the Mores, formerly of this place, Odiham.
Handlkes and Wolverdales, one of which, a knight, was a master in
Chancery; there is also a monument of Mr. May, Founder of the
Free- School, and a memorial of Mr, Pit, Founder of an Hospital
or two, there being three in the Town, one of which was founded
by one of the Mores. There Is an ancient Inscription on the Font.
Lily the Grammarian was a native of this place. London, Novr. 29th, 1754.
A long mile from Odiham is Dogmansfield, Mr. St. John's, an
estate which came to the family from the Goodlers by his mother,
the family estate being at Farley between Winchester and Rutnsey. Dogmansfield.
The ground, water, the park and plantations, are very beautiful.
A fine apartment has been lately added to the house of two large
rooms highly finished ; in which I saw two marble tables of
pebbles cemented together, which I was told came from Mr. Bridges's
estate at Kelnsam in Somersetshire, they are very beautiful, tho'
they do not take a high polish.
From the house there is a view of seven ponds, which appear like
a serpentine river and of a Gothick arch on an advanced ground
half a mile further, it is built of brick and flints in S'quares. There
CAMD. SOC. T VOL. II,

162 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
is an imitation of a British or Druid avenue to It of large stones set
up on end for half a mile, which are found on the sandy heaths.
On the other side of the house is a small round hill well planted,
with a colonade in the front of It, call'd the Temple ; beyond this on
a more advanced ground is another plantation and an octagon turret,
on the summit which commands a fine view of the country, as of
Tilney Hall near Sherfield, which I passed through in the way to
Oakingham, further was Bramshot, S' Maurice Cope's, they call it
the Belvidere. Below this in a wood is a thatch'd house, further
down a large piece of water of thirty acres, in the middle of which
is a small low turret on four Gothick arches, called the Chinese
building, but is rather defective in the execution, and near the
water is a cottage built to resemble a Gothick chapel.
Going from the arch I passed a stream, and came to Crodham in
about a mile, passed through part of the parish of Crundal and
came to the heathy hills, at the end of which is a small hill called
Upshot, which seems to have been separated by art from the hills,
as a sort of pyramidal monument. Over this is a hill, where there
is a tree, which they call the be.acon, and this hill is known by the
name of Renan Roan, which has a British sound, and may relate to
some ancient history. Further on the left hand, on the point of
the hill. Is an old camp, which some have judg'd to be Roman
because it is square, bat I believe they seldom had camps on high
hills. It has the name of Brigborough. A litle beyond It is a
publick house call'd the Lady House, where all the Bishop of
Winchester's courts for this manner must be opened. I came down
to Farnham, a large town situated at the foot of a hill on the river
Wey, which rises above Alton. Farnham Is supposed by some to
be the Caleva Attrebatum of the Itinerary, 22 miles from Ad Pontes,
it may be Stanes, 22 from Venta Belgarum. It was given by
.iEthelbald, King of the West Saxons, to the bishop and congrega
tion of the Church of Winchester. Alfred beat the Danes here in
893. When King Stephen gave his friends leave to build castles,
his brother, Henry de Blois, Bishop of Winchester, built a castle

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 163
here. Henry III. demolished It, but in time the bishop rebuilt it.
It is a fine situation on a high ground over the town ; there are Farnham.
some remains of the old castle, and a good house is built on part of
the site of it ; there is a park belonging to the house, with an
avenue of trees three-quarters of a mile long. In the old wooden
town are some remains, of which Fuller tells a story. The chief
support of the town is the hop trade, a market for oates and wheat,
and the thorough fare to Winchester and Southampton.
On the 27th I went three miles and passed near More Park, Mr.
Temple's, which place I did not view, but am well Inform'd that in
the house and garden are several small statues, busts, reliefs, &c.,
of the Arundel Collection, and under the dial in the garden was
interr'd the heart of S^' W"" Temple, according to his will. The
cave in the park cut out of the sandy rock near Waverley Abbey Is
singularly beautifull. In about half a mile I came to Waverley
Abbey, on the River Wey. It was founded in 1128 by William
GIfford, Bishop of Winchester, for Cistercian Monks, being the first
in England of that order. The estate was Mr. Aislabie's, who built
the house and made the plantations and other improvements; It was Waverley.
then Mr. Child's, and now belongs to Mr. Hunter, son of the
Governor. The house is a fine piece of architecture of Campbell's,
on one of Palladio's designs ; Mr. Hunter has added wings to it,
joyn'd by a Gallery adorned on the outside with Pilasters, the grand
front of the house is to the garden, which is laid out in lawn, wood,
and winding walks near the river. The ruins of the monastery add
no small beauty to it ; the church is much destroy'd. A building
which seems to have been the refectory is pretty entire, except that
one end is down. •
From this place I went over the hills by Crookbury hill, and
pass'd by Shackleford Mr. Gathwait's, a bad situation, and by Eshen
and Paper Harrow, Lord Middleton's, and adjoyning to Godalmin,
General Oglethorpe's, where there Is a vineyard, out of which they
make a wine hke Rhenish. And I was informed that there are in
the house some good drawings of Albanl's which serve for hangings.

Godalmin.

164 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Godalming is a considerable town ; Alfred gave It by will to his
brother's son Ethelwald. It was said, but I know not on what
authority, that it was the see of a Bishop before the Conquest ; and
that the Dean and Canons had their houses on the spot now called
Church Street ; that the BIshoprIck was dissolved in the time of
Henry II. and the estates of it conferr'd oti the Deanery of Sarum ;
and It Is certain the Dean of Sarum has an estate here, and is
patron of the Living. But this is on no good authority, for
Tanner in his Notltia Monastica is wholly silent In relation to it»
The tower of the Church is very ancient, I judge from the old
cornice that it was built before "the Conquest, and there are some
remains of the old church in the cross isle, the pillars in the church
also seem to be old. The Oglethorp family are burved here,
originally of Yorkshire they are descended from Ligulp of the
time of Ed. Confess'^.
Oxensend is mention'd in this neighbourhood as a place where
old English money and rings have been found.
And the manner of Catteshull is said to have been held by Hana
de Catton to be marshal of the king's meretrlces, when he came
into these parts, which in another place are mentioned under the
name of Lotrices.
This town is a great thoroughfare to Portsmouth. They have a
manufacture of kerzeys for the Canary Islands, and of stockins and
paper, particularly the white brown, and they have a great planta
tion of liquorice. Here that vile imposture was carryed on of a
woman bringing forth rabbits, which was a contrivance of the
woman and her mother, and she was prosecuted for an imposture.
In the road, towards London, I saw to the left on a hill St.
Martha's Chapel, and to the right S"^ More Moli-
neux's, a fine situation and a good old house, and In about three
miles came to St. Catherine's Chapel, on a hill very near Guilford.
It has been a handsome Gothick fabrick with turrets, and is built
entirely of stone ; 'tis said It was erected to say masses for the safe
journey of travellors. '

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 165
Guilford Is very pleasantly situated on the side of a steep hill
over the Wey ; it consists chiefly of one street about half a mile
long. It was a villa of the English Saxon kings, and given to Guilford
Athelwald by his uncle. The old castle. In the style of the Tower
of London, is remaining, and -was the house of -the kings, in which
they passed some time every year. King Aelfred was betrayed
here by the Danes.
Queen Eleanor, wife of Henry III., founded a house of Friers
Preachers near this town, called Langley, which, if I mistake not,
now belongs to Speaker Onslow ; it is at the foot of the hill to the
west. A house of Crouched Friers is also mentioned here.
They have a free school, a handsom building, founded by King
Edward VI. Archbishop Abbot and S'' Maurice Abbot, Lord
Mayor of London, and Robert, Bishop of Salisbury, were tlie sons
of clothiers of this town. Archbishop Abbot founded a large alms
house here, and there Is a fine monument In It to his memory, on
which his couchant statue, in white marble, Is well executed. The
clothing trade is entirely decayed in this place, and It chiefly sub
sists by the navigation of the Wey, and by the great thorough fare
to Chichester and Portsmouth. The road from this place to Farn
ham, on St. Catherine's hill, like a grand terrace. Is very fine, and
so Is the bridle road either by Letherhead or Epsom over Banstead
downs to London. In about two miles I passed the road which
leads to Clandon, Lord Onslow's, where I have formerly been ; it
is a -fine new house, and there are some beautiful chimney-pieces
in it, adorned with fine reliefs in white marble.
I left Guilford on the 28th ; In about five miles I came to Ripley,
and just beyond it passed by Lord King's house and park In Oak
ham parish, if I do not mistake. I went over the heath in which Is
the camp on the rising ground, which I had formerly viewed, and
is thought by some to be Julius Csesar's, where he encamped his
ariny before he. cross'd the Thames. This Is the camp which is
mentioned in the parish of Walton. As I remember, it is an irre-

1 66 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
gular camp, and might be made by the Britains and used by Julius
Caasar as a camp.
We came to Painshill, near Cobham, Mr. Hamilton's, which is
a most beautifull farm Improvement. One first enters a lawn In
which sheep are fed; there are jilantations towards the south to
hide the heath, and a walk within it with clumps and knots of trees
on the side to the field, scatter'd up and down without order ; going
to the left is a walk to a small lawn encompassed with evergreens,
and leading to the greenhouse ; then returning, there Is a valley,
mostly near the hanging ground, from which there is a fine pros
pect, and turning more to the right is the Bptanical walk, in which
there are evergreens of almost all kinds ; from this one descends to
a piece of winding water, In which there are four or five small
Islands and a large one. A narrow walk leads from this part over
the river, which conducts to a wheel for raising water, an Invention
of Mr. Hamilton's ; It consists of four spiral square pipes from the
radius to the center, the mouth being open ; it conveys the water to
the axel where 'tis emptied, and the water is convey'd by pipes to
the piece of water I have mentioned. From this place the walks
are through the wild wood, and leads to an old farm house, where
the great lawn first mentioned begins. The whole circuit is four
miles, and there are a great variety of fine prospects from .the
different parts of it. The whole to be improved consists of 300
acres. They have all sorts of pines and firr trees in this place,
particularly the Jerzey firr or pine, and they have much of the
Virginia acacia as well as cedar. There is one good room in the
house In which there are some fine pictures, particularly two of
Paulo Panlni. There are ten acres of vineyard here in two places ;
the grape gently press'd makes an excellent champaign, and pressed
out, and left on the husk, produces a very good Burgundy ; five" or
six hogsheads have been made In a year, and it sells at the inns
here at 7s. 6cZ, a bottle.
Cobham is a very small town full of inns.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 167
About a mile from it Is , late Mr. Bridges's, now
S' John LIgoniere's. It Is a beautiful house, and there is something
very curious in the contrivance of having two stories in some part
of the house to one in another part.
This I have also formerly seen, and most of the following places
in this country, taking the course of the Mole. This river rises
about Letli Hill, to the top of which there is a gentle ascent from
Wotton. Towards the bottom I observed a brown kind of alabaster
in veins of different shades, a specimen of which I brought away.
There Is also a gentle descent on the other side almost to Horsham
in Sussex, eight miles from the top. From this hill one sees the
South downs of Sussex, all that county and all Surrey, part, of
Hampshire, Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Hertford
shire, Middlesex, Kent, Essex, and 'tis said part of Wiltshire, as
'tis thought a circumference In the whole of two hundred miles.
'Tis said that one part of the brow of the hill has fallen down,
occasioned by digging stones below, and the soil being red that It
is seen forty miles off. At the foot of this hill is Wotton, S'' John
Evelyn's, on a stream which falls Into the Mole at Darking.
They found here in the churchyard a skeleton nine feet long, which
-fell to pieces when they touch'd it. Mr. Jacobs also has built a
very pretty small box near this hill, in which there is great variety
of architecture ; it is called . The Mole for a
considerable way is the bounds between Surrey and Sussex. At
Gatton also, near the rise of the Mole, said formerly to have been
a town, Roman coins have been found.
Reygate stands In Holmsdale on a rivlet which falls into the Keygate.
Mole. The east side of the river is a sandy soil, and the west
is chalk, where It has been observed that young women are apt to
have swell'd throats, occasioned by some peculiar property in the
chalk there communicated to the Water.
It is a large town. The Earls of -Warren and Surrey built a
small monastery here of regular canons. It did belong to the
Mord aunts ; at present It is in Alderman Parson's family. The

168 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
same Earls built a castle now in ruins, a vault of It remaining.
Near Okewood, not far from the rise of the Mole, are pits, in which
they say jett has been found.
A small house and garden here, to which the famous Lord
Shaftsbury used to retire, has been greatly improved of late years.
Returning to the Mole towards Darking is Deepden, which, it is
said, is a most curious situation and fine improvement of Mr.
Howard's, encompassed as an amphitheatre with beautiful hills.
Mr. Evelyn mentions a wild cherry here, that makes a wine like
French claret.
Darking. A little lower Is Darking, a small town; It is said to have been
destroyed by the Danes, and rebuilt by Canute. They dig cellars
in the soft stone here.
Here the youngest son succeeds to copyholds of tenants dying
without will. They have good markets, especially for lambs. The
heath near Is esteemed by some as the best air In England. The
^ Roman road called Stone Street passes through the churchyard ;
and there is a large camp not far from the town, near Homebury
hill, in the road to Arundel ; it is a double trench, and contains ten
acres. Below Darking, I saw the place where the Mole runs under Box
hill, the same I suppose as White hill, where there grows much box,
and where they make box ware. I went up the hill, having first
seen Mr. Fryor's park. I then took a view bf Epsom, famous for
Its allora waters, which were formerly much frequented. Near it on
a hill Is Wood cote, abounding in trees, where they say there are
signs of an old town supposed by some to be Noviomages of the
Itinerary, ten miles from London and eighteen from ,
Qu. supposed to be Maidstone, tho' I think It must be much further.
I returned by Leatherhead, where I saw the water come out from
under the hill, about two miles from the place where it went first
under. I came by Mr. Reading's and by Effingham, Lord Howard's, who
is distinguished by the name of this place. The Mole falls into the

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 169
Thames at Moseley. On the down near this the Roman road is seen
from Darking to London. A Roman way also is seen between Guil
ford and Ripley, and between Richmond and Putney.
Between the Mole and the Wey, Mr. Fox, who has taken the
name of Lane, has a good house, in which there is a fine room ; it
is at East Horsley. Farther west, if I mistake not. In the parish
of West Horsley, Is Sheep Lees, the seat of the late Mr. Nicholas,
whose grandfather was secretary to King James the First. He lately
left it to Mr. Weston, pursebearer to Lord Chancellor King. This
place Is much admired for the beech wood which grows round the
fields, and the great beauty is said by connoisseurs to consist in the
outline of the woods. To the south east rises a small river that falls
into the Wey, a litle above Guilford. On it is Albury, the seat
of the famous Earl of Arundel, who collected the Oxford marbles.
His grandson, the Duke of Norfolk, built a grand house here. But Albury.
what it is most remarkable for is a passage under a hill, which was
to have been a way to the house, but a rock at one end was the
reason why it was not brought to perfection.
Heneage Finch, Lord Aylesford, bought it of this family. The
famous mathematician, Oughtred, was rector of this place.
There was a round Roman building here, supposed to be a temple,
and old bricks and tiles have been found on the heath, where there
were marks of great buildings. St. Martha's Chapel, mentioned
before as on a hill, is not far from this river. And at Chllworth
were famous powder mills, but I do not know whether they remain
at present.
At Bagshot I saw Lord Arran's great plantations and gardens. I
have been also at most of the places on the Vandal which rises near
Cashalton where Mr. had an elegant house and garden.
Then It runs by Merton where Kenulph, King of the West
Saxons, being murdered by Prince KInehard In a harlot's house, that
Prince was also immediately kill'd on the spot. Here was a monas
tery founded by Henry I., it was of Canons regular of St. Austin,
CAMD. SOC. Z VOL. II,

170 THE TEAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
in which a Parliament was held under Henry III. Litle remains of
it but the large enclosure of flint and brick.
At Croyden rises a rivlet which falls into the Vandal. 'Tis said
a royal palace stood to the west of the town near Haling, where
Croyden. foundations are discovered by the husbandmen. It was given to
the Archbishops of Canterbury.
The Archbishop's palace is near several ponds, out of which I
suppose the rivlet rises ; and there is a story of a torrent rising as a
presage of dearth and pestilence.
The coals mentioned as a trade here was I suppose charcoal, a
great quantity of which is made yearly out of the neighbouring
woods, and vended at London.
I saw In the church Archbishop Sheldon's monument which is very
fine, the carving of Deaths heads, the several bones of a skeleton,
and other marks of mortality, are judg'd to be extremely well
executed. To Archbishop Grindal also there is a monumenf in this
church. The present Archbishop has much improved the palace.
Archbishop Whitgift founded here an Hospital for decayed House
keepers, and a free school. An old Hospital is mentioned here
founded in the time of Henry VI. by Ellas Davy, mercer of
London. Beddlngton near adjacent is the seat of the Carews, Baronets,
where I saw the orange trees said to be planted in the time of Queen
Elizabeth by S' Wal. Raleigh, are shelter'd in winter by a move
able cover, and were the first that were brought into England.
At Bottle Hill is a square rampart and a single ditch, and another
on a hill near Katheram, which place is directly west of Westram,
and is I believe the same camp I mention'd before.
Over the Vandal at some litle distance is Wimbledon, where the
Saxons fell out ^mong themselves. Ethelbert King of Kent was
engaged in a civil war, and Ceaulin, King of the West Saxons,
Wimbleton. defeated him here and killed his two Generals Oslan and Cneben;
'tis conjectured that a round fort call'd Bensbury may be a corrupt

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE. 171
tlon from Cnebensbury. Here was a house built by S* Thomas
Cecil, son of the great Lord Burleigh. A new house is built
there, which Mr. Spencer inherits from the Dutchess of Marl
borough. On another branch of this river stands Towting, where there are
several seats of the nobility, gentlemen, and citizens, and a hospital
was founded here by the Bateman family. Here was a Priory of
Black Monks, dependant on the Abbey of Bee in Normandy.
The Vandal passes through Wandsworth and falls Into the Thames. Wandsworth.
It. is a disagreeable town. They have a manufacture here of brass
plates for making vessels. To the east of the town where the roads
part, one leading to Lambeth, the other to Chatham, from the fields
over the river is an exceeding fine prospect, as it takes in a view of
London, of Putney and Fulham, and of the country between.
A small river rises at Ewell out of a very fine spring, near it is Nonesuch.
Nonesuch, which was a most magnificent palace, built by Henry VIIL
The front of it In Speed's maps Is hereunto annex'd, it was called
before Cudlington; Queen Mary I. exchanged it with Henry Fitz
Alan, Earl of Arundel, for other lands. He left it to Baron Lumley,
who gave it up to the Crown. It was much damaged in the Civil
wars ; but Charles II. gave it the Dutchess of Cleveland, who sold
the materials, with which the Earl of Berkley built Durdans now
the house of Lord North and Guilford ; which the late Prince of
Wales took of him ; so that at Nonesuch there is only a farm house.
At the mouth of the rivlet is Kingston, first called Moreford, but
in the time of the Danish wars the kings, Athelstan, Edwin and
Ethelred, were crown'd here, and then it was called Kingstone.
It was famous for the castle of the Clares, Earl of Glocester. And
HIrcombs Place here was the house of the king.
In the church are the pictures of the kings crown'd here, and of
King John who incorporated the town. At the town house there is
a statue of Queen Anne set up. There Is a wooden bridge here
over the Thames of twenty arches. To the east of it on a gravelly
hill was a burial-place of the Romans, where the urns are often

172 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
found. At Combnevil also, a seat of the , old coins have
been found.
On the Thames, below Kingston, is Ham House, the Duke of
Lauderdale's in King Charles II. time, and afterward Lord Disert's,
his Dutchesses son, and brother to General Talmash. Lower is
Petersham, in a corner of the New Park, a most charming place of
Lord Harrington's. The house is built on the spot of Lord
Rochester's house, which was burnt down in 1720. Richmond,
Below Richmond is Shene. Here the kings of England had a
royal palace, which, on account of the wholesomness of the air, was
made choice of for the nursery place of their children. And here
many of the kings of England, particularly Edward III,, died. It
was burnt down in the time of Henry VII,, and rebuilt by him, and
called Richmond, as he had been long Earl of Richmond, The
gardens here were much improv'd by Queen Caroline in plantations,
buildings, and particularly with a hermitage and Merlin's cave,
Henry VII. founded a convent for observant friars near the place.
The rich prospect from Richmond Hill is very fine, and hardly to
be exceeded by any Inland prospect whatsoever. The part now
Shene. called Shene, a litle lower, Is a very pleasant place. Henry Vth,
in 1404, founded here the house of Jesus of Bethlehem for forty
Carthusians, and Edward II. founded a convent of 24 Carmelite
Friars. 8=^^ WiUiam Temple had a house and garden in this place.
Lower down Is Putney, where many citizens have houses.
Thomas Cromvvell, Earl of Essex, and Cardinal Wolsey's favourite,
was born here, where his father was a blacksmith.
At a distance from the river at Dulwich, William Allen built an
hospital. Near this place are Sidenam medicinal waters,
as there are also at Stretham. Near this place is Norwood, which
used to be a famous resort for gypsies, 'tis a vast wood of the
Archbp. of Cant.
Lower is Battersea, mentioned before ; it extends to Lambeth, a

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 173
very large parish that stretches to the Burrough. It Is said to
derive its name from Lome hills — that is, dirty station or harbour,
and is divided into several parts: — the Deans precinct, Stockwell, Lambeth.
Kennlngton. This last is, I suppose, the place of a royal seat, of
which at present there are no remains, nor is the exact site of It
known. Vauxhall is in the Prince's precinct, and the Archbishop
of Canterbury's. In the Marsh and St. George's Fields the ditches
are seen which Canute made when he besieged London and turned
the course of the Thames from the King's Barge House (I suppose
at the creek by the Spring Gardens) to a place below the bridge,
probably the creek at Redrlffe. And here he dyed of the excesses
in which he lived.
Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury about 1183, made an
exchange for this place with the Bishop of Rochester, and when his
successors began to build a collegiate church here it was opposed
by the members of the Chapter of Canterbury, who feared it might
deprive them of electing the Archbishop.
The Archbishop's palace is a large precinct, with a church.
library and grand hall. It is said that a Roman road was visible
in St. George's Fields, where there is a medicinal water, commonly
called the Dog or Duck Water, which is much esteem'd as a remedy
for all scorbutick humours. I have been informed it is a mixture
of allum and some other minerals.
Lambeth Wells, not far from it. Is a purging water, as the other
is of a binding nature. A litle further is Westminster Bridge,
which, without all doubt, is the grandest that ever was built.

174 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
WALES.
Pulhelly, Aug. 15th, 1756.
I landed from Dublin at HolyhOad on the 1 2th. I here saw, in
a collection of Mr. Morris the surveyor, two different kinds of those
bags which appear like a vegetable substance, and have a string at
each corner as I described on the riff of Portland ; the large black
sort, he said, were those which contain'd the young of the ray ; the
long narrow yellow kind he had found in the bellies of the dog
fish. This gentleman is son of a farmer ; first took delight in botany
and now in the whole natural collection, and draws well ; he has a
brother, who has surveyed and published the Ports of North and
West Wales. A third Is a genius in some other way, particularly
in finding mines, and is collector of Aberdour.
On the 13th I went 17 miles on the south of the Isle of Angle-
sea, and observed at the north-west corner of the bay, to the west
of a village call'd being, as I beheve, the bay of
Aberffraw, in the sea coast, a curious green stone with shells in it ;
the whole bay abounds in this stone, but In the other parts it Is
without such petrifications. I observed a mineral water on both
sides of the large bay of Maudraeth. We came to Abernai ferry,
about two miles west of Carnarvon. This is called the Menay,
being that channel which divides Anglesey from North Wales ;
there are four other ferries over it, Carnarvon, Moer-y-Clon, two
miles to the east, Bangor, and Beaumorris. We left Carnarvon
to the east, where I had formerly been, and went two miles alono- a
marsh near the sea, and came to a natural small hill, which seemed
to have been improved into a fortification, and is called Dinas
Dinla. Some Roman coins have not long agoe been found there ;
and it is remarkable that one of the fords near is called Reedeh
Equestre, another Redell Pedestre ; so that It is supposed that the
Romans used this place as a fortress. We then turned up from the
sea, going near west in that fine country which lies between

DE. EICHARD POCOCKE. 175
Snowdon and the mountains of this promontory, which extends near
to the Isle of Bardsey. Snowdon is a chain of hills, anciently call'd
the Lordship of Snowdon, but one mountain higher than the rest is
particularly known by that name by the English, and is the highest
in Wales, but the inhabitants call it Mount Guedva.
We passed by S"^ John Wynne's, and in 4 miles came to Clinok
near the sea, just at the approach of the mountains ; it is also called
Clinok Vaur, the great Clinok ; it is a poor village, and Is remark
able for nothing but a fine Gothick church, which seems to have
been owing to an ancient devotion here to St. Baino, whose plain
tomb is in a large handsome chapel, built seperate from the church,
with a passage of communication, in which and the church are
remains of some very good painted glass. The ancient rood-loft is
standing, and they have a wooden branch to illuminate their church
at their early devotions on Christmas day, which is a custom that pre
vails In most parts of North Wales. The church is built of several
kinds of freestone, which was brought from some distant places. On
the south side of the Communion rail Is a chest cut out of one piece of
wood, into which the people, who at this time come here out of
devotion, put their offerings, and It is called Keif Beuon, as Dr.
Willis calls it, but is pronounced Beino. As there was, probably, a
sort of shrine here, so this fabrick might be built out of their offer
ings, which now go to the repair of the church. The people come
to bathe in St. Beuon's Well, and children are left to sleep on the
tomb after bathing for the rickets, which is part of the cure. The
reading desk Is within the skreen, and the minister comes out to
an elevated seat in the body of the church to read the lesson. A
friery was founded here in 616 by Gtrifluin or Guiddaunt, related
to the Princes of North Wales ; afterwards there were White Monks
here ; at Lincoln taxation it was a collegiate church of six prebends.
In the mountains near they have very large flag stones. I saw a
small room covered with two of them, and at the inn is a cellar in
which the flags are placed on each side at top, so as to be the
rests on which they have laid the flags which cover the whole.

1 76 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
extending about ten feet from side to side, and they are the floor
of the room over it, I here also flrst saw a sort of small pancake,
made with the addition of barm, and eat like butter'd oat cakes,
are served up with tea and very good, being call'd light cakes. On
the 14th we went about four miles through a very pleasant romantick
country, having the high rocky mountains to the left, and the sea
at about the distance of half a mile to the right. There is a foot
way over the mountains near the sea to Nefyn, but we turned
up between the mountains, and pass'd again between 'em towards
the sea,. and in four miles came to Nefyn, leaving Pulhelly road
to the left. There are grous in all these mountains, and the
black game in Denbighshire ; neither of them could ever be kept
conflned so as to breed, but I have seen the black game confin'd,
Nefin or Nevin Is a large village near a small bay, which is within
a larger called Porthdillyn, both very good harbours, and the Irish
packet often puts into the latter when the wind Is strong from the
north and they can't reach the head. Here I met with two clergy
men, who In an obliging manner offered to accompany me four miles
to Carne Madrin. We immediately came into a very fine country,
in the middle of which stands that high rocky hill call'd Carne
Madrin. At the foot of it we came to Madrin, the seat of Mr,
Bodvil, who divided the county interest with S"' John Wynne, but
proving the weaker, L* Powis brought him in for Montgomery.
He has here a very fine demesne. We went half round the moun
tain in a beautiful valley, which almost encompasses it, and ascended
on the south-west side, there being an artificlwl ascent, so that one
rides all tho way, it having been formerly a place of strength, of
which there are marks, several bulwarks being made of loose stones
in different places. On the top of all is the Carne, which seems
to have been in a circular figure, but very small, and so much
defaced as hardly to be discerned. This hill consists of a dark grey
granite in very small grains. From this spot Is a most glorious
prospect of the fine country to the south-west, with only one hill,
and a few barrier rocks against the sea, Bardsay Island, the fine

DE. llICHAED POCOCKE. 177
country all the way to Pulhelly, Festlniog, and Harleigh, the coast
all along to St. David's head, the mountains of Cadir Edris and
Pllnlimmon, on which I saw two years agoe the rise of the Severn,
the Wye and the Ridal ; on the other side Snowdon mountains
towards Bala, the Isle of Anglesea, and the mountains of Wicklow
in Ireland. I was shown a bay called Hell's mouth, by reason of
the danger of coming into it which ships often did in stress of
weather before St. TudwaPs road was known. I observed a church
near it with a tower call'd San Ennyan Brenan, which they say
is dedicated to a Saxon king of the name of Ennyan, which they
pronounce Ennyan. Between this bay and St. Tudwall's road Is
a fine broad head of land most beautifully improved. This road
has not been long known ; it Is shelter'd from the south by two
small islands, and on every other side by the land. Tho' Bardsey
Island appears from the hill to be joyn'd to the land, yet they affirm
it to be two leagues distant, tho' by Norrls's sea cart it is not a
mile, which I believe is the truth ; it is about three miles round.
There was an abbey founded here in 516 ; it has been called the
Isle of Bards or Boets, or Aberdaron, and had the name of Insula
Sanctorum, from the many holy men it produced. It has also had
the name of Healy and Ynlkalley. DIdricus, Archbishop of Caer-
leon, reslgn'd his archbishoprick and retired to this abbey.
From this mountain, taking leave of my friends, I came five
miles to Pulhelle, a small neat town consisting chiefly of one street
about a quarter of a mile long, most beautifully situated between
two rivlets that run along the strand when the tyde is out, which
leaves the town a considerable distance, and 2 or 3 Isles are form'd
before the town, on one of which is a beautiful rock ; the houses
have gardens towards the sea, and over the town is a beautiful hang
ing ground diversifyed with gardens and wood, so as altogether to
make It a most delightful place ; they have some trade in supplying
this part of Wales as far as Bala, and also southward, with matting,
made of a grass that grows on the marshes, and they import lime
stone from Anglesea, near St. Nicholas Bay, and make lime of It ;
CAMD. SOC. 2 A VOL. II.

178 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
they supply also this country and the south with the convenlencies
of life brought by land from Chester. Irish boats come into the
Bay and lay pots for lobsters and carry 'em off. The rocks about
this place are of a yellowish stone, with small grains of a white spar
quite through it. They have in this country a great growth of
hemp, chiefly used for making fishing nets, and some of the poorest
people make cloth of It, but they most commonly use flannell instead
of linnen ; they wear stockins without feet or shoes, being made so
as to cover the upper part of the foot, with a hole to go over the toe.
Their bread is chiefly made of a mixture of rye and barley ; bread,
cheese, potatoes, and fish is their principal food ; they have the
latter in great plenty, as well as fowls ; their mutton Is very small
and excellent. They sheer their lambs and mix the wool with a
coarser kind, and use it also to make felts. There are none of the
Romish religion in Carnarvonshire. 1766, Aug. I8th, Machinleth in Montgomeryshire.
On the 16th I set out and rid six miles near the shoar to Criketh,
where, directly opposite to Harleigh, Is a multangular castle with
two round towers at the entrance. They have a notion that all the
strand between this and Harleigh was once dry land, and that a
sort of a riff of stones (as I take it to be), a Htle beyond a point
towards Barmuth, call'd Sarn Badrig, was a causeway over to
Bardsey, and is represented in Morris's Cart as dry at low water.
We went on five miles to Penmauvra, coming into a most beau
tiful romantick country, a fine vale of pleasant meadows, and most
extraordinary high rocks on each side, in such figures as one would
imagine gave rise to many Gothick ornaments. From this place we
came down towards the strand call'd Traethmaur, and coming upon
it, the most extraordinary scenes opened to us I ever beheld. On
the strand some beautifull rocks, all round is a mixture of woods,
rocks, high vales up between the hills diversifyed with meadows,
corn-fields, and woods, and over them rise the high mountains and
make a, most aweful appearance. We travers'd the strand to the

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 179
north end, and passed two miles over some of these fine hills, and
descending to Tanibulch we had a view of the finest verdant
meadows I ever beheld, with a serpentine river running through it,
and such an charming variety on each side, as has been allready
describ'd. I was here within two miles of Festlniog, where I lay,
1751, and went 14 miles from it to Carnarvon. I observed coming
down the hills an accidental formation of a slaty stone that exactly
resembled rotten wood, and the hills abound In a sort of ash-colour'd
granite. In very small grains, as far as Dolgelle.
On the 17th we proceeded over very disagreeable mountains for
seven miles, and descended to a narrow vale, on each side of which
on the mountain Is an agreeable variety of rocks, wood, fields, and
meadows, much resembling the lower part of the Alps towards
Chambery. We saw several curious bridges of one arch built on
the rocks, and many fine cascades, one in particular, call'd Afon
Gamblas, which tumbles down from high hills through the rocks
and trees, and makes a most agreable appearance as one walks up
the side of it. We soon turn'd into another valley, mucb resembling
those in Ireland, which have high, bare rocky mountains on each
side, and crossing over the river on a bridge we came within half a
mile of Dolgelle to Fenner Abbey, call'd in the map and in the
Monasticon, Kimmer ; they were Cistertians and founded by Lluellen,
son of Gervase, about 1204 ; nothing remains of It but the church,
with three narrow Gothic windows at the east end, and some pillars
in the church ; both show it to be a building of the time the abbey
was founded. There is a beautiful vale, which extends to the sea,
at Barmuth. At Dolgelle they have a handsom new-built church
of hewn stone, and a manufacture of Welch webbs. This town js joolgelle
pleasantly situated between the hills at the foot of Cader Edris,
which is 1,000 yards high, Snowdon being 1,200. The road was
very rough in crossing the skirt of the mountain for three miles, and
we descended to a naked valley and in two miles came to a beautiful
lake with a good country beyond it, In the middle of which a green
hill has a very particular effect; this Is some thing like the 7 churches

180 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OP
in the county of Wicklow, but the hills on each side are finer. We
then descended to a most beautiful valley, the hills on each side
adorned with woods and fields and some houses, exactly like Swisser-
land ; we went round Into it, and came, as I believe, into the high
road from Flint, Ruthen, and Bala, and from Merionethshire into
Montgomeryshire. Here, as in Carnarvonshire, we found the miles
short, but in Merionethshire they are very long. This river falls
into the Douy, which falls Into the sea at Aberdouy.
We saw on the other side of the river an old seat, called Dolgeog,
where they say is the house from which the Powis family came, and
the estate belonging to it about £100 a year, lately sold by the
Marquis. We cross'd this river on a bridge of many arches, and
soon came to Machonlleth on a stream, which falls into it under a
ridge of hills which divides the plain ; it Is an ordinary town, but
full of inns, there being a considerable manufacture of Welch webbs
and in tanning of leather. In the church here the rood loft remains,
and many Gothick skreens to the different parts of the church, all
adorn'd with beautiful carvings in wood. This place is thought to
be Maglona of the Romans, where in the time of the Emperor
Honorius, as Mr. Cambden observes, the Prsefect of the Solenslans
lay in garrison under the Dux Britanniae, in order to keep in sub
jection the people of the mountains. And two miles off, near
Penasht, is a place call'd Keon-Kaer, are remains of a round fortifi
cation, and Roman coins are found there. Cardigan, Aug. 20th, 1756.
On the 18th we left Machontleth, and ascending the hills we
went over some vales finely adorn'd with wood on each side, and
observed one most singular riseing vale on one side in the form of
the inside of a ship, like the Carinae at Rome, the whole being
covered with wood. We came over the river Cyfnant into Car
diganshire, and began to ascend most dismal mountains, like those
between Dungarvan and Youghall, in the county of Waterford.
We travelled on them for three hours, and came into a fine uneven

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 181
country like Sussex, five miles of Aberistwith. This was not the
direct road, but we came into that from Llanidlos by Plinlimmon,
and were only 15 miles from that town, where I had formerly been.
Within a mile of Aberistwith we came to Llanbadan Faur, thought
to be Mauritania, where St. Paternus in the middle of the sixth
century founded a monastery and established an episcopal see,
which continued untill they murder'd their bishop, when it was
united to St. David's. In 1111 It was given to St. Peter's,
Glocester, and afterwards appropriated to the abbey of Vale Royal
in Cheshire. The church is in the shape of a cross, with a tower
in the middle. There are no marks of very great antiquity about
it. There are stalls in the east part, which is a common thing in
Wales. And on the each side of the east window is a common
monument shut up in a cupboard, as to preserve it from the dust.
This Is the parish church of Aberistwith, and near it, towards the'
river on a litle rising, are some old buildings, called Place Craig,
which they speak of as the spot of the bishop's house. We came to Aberistwith.
Aberistwith, which is situated on a rising ground to the north of the
river, and the ruin'd castle is on a promontory exactly like old Tyre
in miniature. On the south side of the river is a high, round hill,
the top of which is work'd into a strong fortification, with three
ramparts towards the land and a considerable outwork towards the
town. We saw another in our road this way, about three miles
from the town. This place is a good harbour for small boats, of
which they have several employed, chiefly in the herring fishery,
and in bringing lime stone from Mllford Haven to make lime for
manuring the land. They are here a most profligate, lawless sort
of people, and do justice themselves on all strangers, and even on
gentlemen of the country who have difference with any persons in
this place, and often send 'em off with severe chastisements. I saw.
an Instance of it myself; they were assembled about the inn, and
ready to redress a pretended grievance, untill they saw it was
without foundation, there being no justice of peace residing in their
town.

182

THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

On the 19th I went on and observed, on the other side of the
river opposite to the old fort, a small hill with a barrow on the top
of it, which seemed to be made into a circular bank, and probably
it is the burial place of some chief. In about a mile we passed over
the Istaith, the other river at the town being the Rydal, at the rise
of which I had formerly been. Five miles more brought us near
Lannlstyt, which by mistake we left to the right. I saw the large
church supposed to have belonged to a nunnery. A mile further is
Lansanfrlde, another nunnery. We came into the road at Landoul;
before we came to It we passed by a stone ten feet high and about
five broad ; there are many stones of this kind in the country, but
not so large, all which I look on to have been burial places of some
* Quere if not great people, or heads of clans.* In a mile more we came to
a Meny Givir ? Aberavron, on the river Avron, which runs through a pleasant
See Kowland's '' ' , , •''„.. , , „ , , ,
Mona lUus- narrow vale, and at the mouth of it is a harbour tor small boats.
trata. ¦\^q went on three miles to Lanerth, on a hill near the sea, with a
beautiful glyn or valley on three sides of it covered with wood, in
one of which near the sea Mr. Lloyd has a house, which seems to
be a beautiful and uncommon situation. We had a pleasant ride
through a fine uneven country to Cardigan, situated between low
hills on the river Tivy, which runs on the south and west of it, and
Cardigan. a rill and rivlet on the north side make it a peninsula. Before we
came down to the common near the town we passed between small
hills, some of which seem to have been improv'd into a fortification,
and near one of them is a large stone set on end within a sort of
enclosure. At the south-west corner of the town is the old castle
on a rock, with two semi-circular towers towards the river. The
situation of this town is pleasant ; it consists chiefly of two streets,
for the most part very indifferently built. The church did belong
to the priory, of which there are very litle remains ; they were
black nuns, and a cell to Chertsey, in Surrey. The town is situated
about two miles from the mouth of the river, to which there is a bar.
The country round is a very fine uneven country. A hill a litle
above the town, the river on one side and the rivlet or rill on the

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 183
other, is something like the situation of three very noted places.
Veil, Jerusalem, and Old Troy, where the Simois and Scamander
meet, and I think most like the last, except that the ground of Troy
is higher and more pointed towards the sea. It is certainly a most
beautiful spot of ground. They have a small key here, but no great
trade. There was such a plenty of fish that salmon sold for a peny
a pound. Cardiganshire is a great corn country, for oats, barley,
and some rye. The soil is very shallow, and they manure it with
lime ; the fences are made of sod, on which they sow furze, for they
want depth of ground to make other ditches. The river Tivy rises
near Rose Favre, and passes by Strata Florida, call'd also Strathur,
Strat Flour or Istrad Street, where there was a Cistertian abbey,
founded by Rhesun, son of Griffith, Prince of Wales, in 1164. It
was burnt in 1294, in the wars of Edward 1st with the Welsh, and
was afterwards rebuilt. Lower down Is Tregavon, and below that
the town of Llanbeder ; the vale all the way from Cardigan to that
town, as they say, is exceeding fine. St. DaTid's, Aug. 23d, 1756.
On the 20th we cross'd over the bridge at Cardigan Into Pem
broke shire, the same kind of fine country and the same shallow
soil : they improve it here by mixing lime with sods and earth dug
up in waste places, and thrown over the fields ; this way the lime
goes further than when it is thrown on the ground. Near College
we passed by a large stone, on which this figure was cut © and
descending to Nevern, on the river Nevern, I saw the old church ;
they have in this country wooden latticies before the glass windows
of churches, which have a very mean ' appearance. This vale is
very fine, the beauty of it consisting in hanging ground adorn'd
with wood ; two miles brought us to Newport. Near the strand at
the mouth of the river Nevern 1 went to see the church, which I
suppose belong'd to the Augustlnian friery here, tho' there are no
remains of a convent. There is a rood loft in It, and a chapel with
the old altar remaining. There are ruins here of a very grand

184 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
castle. The entrance is a large pile of building, defended by two
semicircular towers ; on the left was a large building, to the south
east a tower multangular within ; to the north-west another tower,
entirely destroyed. There is a fine bay at the mouth of the river,
and a litle further a small bay with a beautiful glyn leading to it
and a few houses ; this place is call'd Dinas. Three miles brought
us to Fiscard. There Is a bay here with a creek in it at the mouth
of the river, which forms an excellent harbor for small boats, the
bay It self being exposed to the north wind. Over this creek is the
poor village of Fiscard, inhabited by fishermen and lime burners,
there being a great demand here for manure ; they bring the stone
from Mllford Haven. In five miles we passed under Mathus, a
very fine summer situation on the top of an agreable round hill.
After travelling six long miles we came to St. David's. This poor
village is situated on a rising ground on the east of a rivulet, called
the Alan ; it Is said that St. Patrick founded a monastery here to
St. Andrew in 470. St. David translated the Archbishoprick of
Wales from Caerleon to this place. Dubritius, his predecessor,
St. David's, being the first Archbishop of Wales, and tho' after 930 they were
not archbishops, yet they continued to consecrate the Welch bishops
to the time of Henry 1st, when it became entirely subject to Canter
bury. Giraldus Cambrensis, archdeacon of Brecknock, was elected
Bishop of thissee, and went to Rome to sollcite the Pall, by which
he offended the King and Archbishop of Canterbury to the degree
that he was outlawed, lost the blshpl^, and was obliged to desist.
The 7 suffragans of St. David's met St. Austin, that is Worcester,
Hereford, Llandaff, Llendonor, St. Asaph, Llanbellam, and Maryam,
at an oak near Petbury in Gloc:shIre.
At the bottom of this hill is the cathedral and palace within a
large enclosure which takes in pai't of the rising ground on each
side, the gateway being on the side of a hill built to a fine octagon
tower, which they say was formerly a belfrey, and is, according to
the old custom ; but others, and more knowing, say it was the court
house, and that the jayl was in the gatehouse adjoyning.

DB, EICHAED POCOCKE. 185
D' Willis has published an account of this cathedral, the archi
tecture of which is of a very mixt nature, tho' originally it seems to
have been of the fine Saxon architecture. But the tradition is that
the tower has fain and probably beat down a great part of the
church, particularly almost all the quire, for at the east end three
old windows remain, and the middle one, being probably damaged,
appears now a Gothick arch ; over them is a Gothick window of
about 5 feet in length, only below the spring of the arch all the
ancient pillars of the quire remain, the arches being all Gothic. In
the chancel are the three seats for the priest and attendants, who
celebrated pontifically, and the Bishop's seat is singular, consisting of
three stalls, probably for the Archbishop and two of his suffragans,
in case they should happen at any time to come.* There is a fine
Gothic ornament over them, something like that at Exeter. The
under part of the seats of the stalls are carv'd In many odd figures.
The skreen at the west end of the quire is highly ornamented in the
Gothick taste; the Saxon arches are double turned after the old
way towards the isle, but to the body they are partly Gothic work
manship, partly Saxon. The present quire is in the tower, the
lower part of the west side of which Is old ; all the rest Is of Gothick
architecture, except a few windows. The south end of the Cross
isle is ancient, with more modern windows built in it ; all the
pillars of the body of the church are old, covered with 4 semicircular
pilasters over the large arches, but they seem to have been rebuilt,
with the addition of Gothick arches in front of the passage under
them along the wall ; all the great arches on the pillars are old,
except the two western arches. The west end is all old, and the
upper window is most singular In this manner, being as two quarters
of a circle, or half windows on each side of the arch'd window.
What they call the Bishop's door is narrow. All the arches are
finely adorn'd with Saxon ornaments, and most of them and the
pillars with different ornaments. The destruction of the church is
* The like at Hereford, which is said to be for the Archd°|and Chancellor ; they are
somewhat lower than where the Bp. sits, and the same at Durham. — Note in MS.
CAMD. SOC. 2 B VOL. IL

186 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
threatened by the same means as before, for the tower is split and
the pillars have given way, so as to drive Ihe arches of the body of
the church much out of the perpendicular. Archbishop. Peter de
Leia, about 1176, rebuilt the cathedral; this was probably the
Saxon building. In 1220 the tower fell down; in 1248 great part
of the church was thrown down by an earthquake. There are
tombs of many bishops and canons about the church. There is a
remarkable monument in the midle of the chancel, which I judge
was the old quire. It is of Edmund, Earl of Richmond, father to
•Henry 7th, and, it's said, this saved the church when Henry VIIL
thought of removing the episcopal see to Carmarthen. The College
is to the south of the Cathedral, with its cloyster and refectory.
This Is, it may be, the College for a master and seven priests, founded
by William, Duke of Lancaster, and Blanche, his wife, and Adam
Houghton, Bishop of St. David's, in 1365.
On the other side of the river is what they call the Palace, a
very grand building, and what adds to its magnificence are the
handsome small arches at top with battlements over them ; these
arches were made for the water to run from the top of the buildings.
They are adorn'd with pillars and grotesque figures ; they might be
deslgn'd to defend the roof against the weather.
The east side consists of the Bishop's hall with his bedchamber, at
the end which might be afterwards converted into a chapel. There
being a building of another kind built to the hall, which seem'd to
serve as a bedchamber, with a closet to it; the hall has been
divided to make a sort of withdrawing room. At the other end of
the hall is the kitchen with a small chimijey in it, but it is crown'd
at top with a funnel to draw up the smoak, and from the walls and
from 4 arches across 4 chimneys are built in a curious manner ;
there might be four grates which might serve as eight fires to roast
the provisions. Part of the large oven also remains. The door to
this building is singular. Pilasters of 5 sides of an octagon support
a Corinthian cornice In the form of four sides as of a hexagon. The
door to the grand building on the other side of the court is arch'd

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE. 187
in this shape i  ""  ^ , with an handsom cornice to it, and is
finely adorned ; over it are the statues, as they say, of King John
and his Queen. For this building, they have a tradition, was
erected to receive King John on his landing from Ireland ; it con
sists of a very grand hall, a presence chamber, and the King's bed
chamber on one side, and a room on the other, as for the officer in
waiting. There is a fine round window at the end of the hall,
divided into sixteen parts by carved work, and the frame is adorned
with roses and flowers. This building is in the same taste as the
other, and there is an ascent of some steps to both, there being a
great number of arch'd rooms under them.
Within the great enclosure the dignitaries seem to have had their
houses, one of the Treasurer's remains, and is built like a tower to
the north of the palace. Bp. Barlow, in the time of H. 8th and
Ed. 6th, began to destroy these buildings for the sake of the lead.
The Bishops have formerly resided at Brecknock, but now live at
Aberguilly, near Carmarthen. He was probably, in ancient times,
the head of the Chapter, and he has a prebend or out of
the Chapter revenue, but no vote, and his vicar seems to have pre
sided over the musick on his side, as the sub-precentor on the other,
in the absence of their principals. I went a mile to a litle bay,
made by the head of St. David's, across which is a bulwark of loose
stones, and there are some signs of outworks, probably made by
some piratical people who infested the road. This is the shortest
passage from England, being about eighteen leagues from Wexford.
In these rocks are veins of small chrystal, said to be harder than
those of Bristol ; some say the^ are of an amethyst colour, but that
it wears off with handling. On the north side of the bay is a
quarry of very good slate. A mile east of St. David's at Carn-oehr
is a sort of ore which looks like copper, and is, I suppose, mundik.
Ramsey Island belongs to the Bishop, the rocks near it being called
the Bishop and his Clerks ; some of them have the names of some
of the dignitaries, but there is no property in them.

West.

188 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

Tenby, Aug. 25th, 1756. ,
On the 23rd we left St. David's, and in about, three miles came to
Solbay Harbour, a creek into which a small river runs, and a vessel
of about 100 tuns may come into it at high water. In about 3 more
we came to some old coal pits near Roch Castle, which is thought
to have serv'd as a beacon. Six miles more brought us to Haver-'
ford West, situated on a hill over the river Kiog (?) which falls into
Mllford Haven ; it is the principal port town of this harbour, and
HaTerford chiefly consists of one street up the hill and the houses by the river.
There is a stone bridge and a draw-bridge across the water.'
There is a church on the hill built to a high tower, which seems to
have been originally deslgn'd for a watch-tower and for a place of
defence, of which there are others toward the seaside. There are
two more churches in the town. The castle to the north on another
hill over the town Is a very grand building in ruins. At the lower
end of the town on the river are the remains of the Priory of Black
Canons founded in the twelfth century by Robert de Haverford,
lord of the place. There are remains of a large church in the form
of a Greek cross very strongly built with narrow windows, part of
it seems to have been blown up. The trade of this town seems
chiefly to consist of collieries. The coals here seem very much to
run into culm which they work up with clay and make it into balls,
it is very good fuel, and they have good shops to supply the country^
Some merchants of other places import wine. Leaving this place
we soon came to Frotorp collieries. We saw an old ruined mansion-
house to the left called Harrison, which now belongs to S"^ John
Packington ; and in flve miles came "to Pembroke Ferry which we
cross'd, and in a mile and half arrived at Pembroke, a walled
town pleasantly situated on a rising ground. There is a vale to the
south In which a small stream runs, and a creek to the north ; there
is a bridge over the stream which runs into the creek and tyde falls
in a cascade through the small arch. The town consists chiefly of
one street. The grand castle In ruins is at the north-west part of

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 189
the town, it is large of a circular form and was defended by circular
towers, some of which seem to have been blown up. On the north Pembroke.
side are the remains of a hall and chapel and a very fine round
tower entire, the walls of it at bottom are 18 feet thick, a litle
higher 15' feet, the diameter within is 24 feet, there being a pillar
built in the middle, 6 feet in diameter, up to the first floor, which
is about 15 feet from the ground, the other three might be about
the same heigth ; the fine arch at top remains entire. There seem
to have been battlements round it which are now gone; it was
built with a very coarse gravelly mortar, and I think it is the finest
round tower I have seen. There is very litle trade in the town
except shops to supply the adjacent country. To the west of the
town Is the Priory. Arnulph, Earl of Pembroke, gave St. Nicholas's
Church in the castle and some lands in 1098 to the Abbey of St.
Martin at Sayes In Normandy, who founded here a Benedictine
priory as a cell to It. It was afterwards given to Humphrey, Duke
of Glocester, who made it a cell to St. Alban's. There is a high
tower to the church and several ruins near it. On the 24th I went
five miles to the end of Pulcrahan parish to take a view of Mllford
Haven, which Is esteemed the finest In England. In the way I had
a view of a bed of oysters called Pannermouth on which I saw the
women picking them up; they are a litle larger and almost as much
esteemed as those of Colchester ; from this hill I had a view of a
litle seaport called Hubberston, to the north of Deale on the same
side further south In the beautifull bason near the mouth, which I
suppose is ten miles in circumference ; I saw the lighthouses on that
side on the point at the mouth of the harbour, and the litle village
of Nangle near opposite to Deal. The situations on this harbour
are very fine, and they say It Is sufficient to hold all the shipping of
whatever kind in the King's dominions. The whole country here Milford haven.
is marvelously fine and abounds in wheat. By manuring with lime
they raise wheat, barley, pease, barley, and then oats; but they
reckon this Is rather a crop too much. They have in this country
great plenty of limestone on this side of the harbour, only one patch

190 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
or two on the other. If they tryed they would without doubt find
a great variety of marbles in these quarries. They have a black
marble exactly like that of Kilkenny, which is full of shells, and is
called the half-moon marble, with a mixture of coral in it ; this is
found at Templeton three miles north-east of Pembroke, and also at
M'' Campbell's near Stakpole. The burning of lime for manure,
and exporting the stone to be burnt, and corn to Ireland and other
parts, and coal, is the general trade of this country. The ctjal does
not cake but flames and may be burnt twice over. They have at
Pembroke a club of the clergy and gentry, who meet once a month
and have an annual subscription for buying the best books that
come out, which are kept In presses, and circulate among them for
reading. Caermarthen, Aug. 27th, 1756.
We left Pembroke on the 25th, and In about two miles came to
Lanphy and saw to the left Lanphy Court which was a place of
residence of the Bishops of St. David's ; it was alienated by Bishop
and is now the estate of S' W™ Owen. The grand hall
built to the house is in the sanie taste as that of St. David's, with
arches for the water to run through from the roof. In four miles
we came to Tenby, beautifully situated on a promontory about half
a mile in length, on the top of which there is a street extending the
whole length of it ; there are some good houses in it, but in general
Tenby. j^ jg iU-built. It depends chiefly on the coal trade, and vessels put
in by contrary winds especially the south-east. The walls were built
by Jaspar, Earl of Pembroke, uncle to Henry 7th, and repaired
by Queen Elizabeth. This town with Pembroke sends one member
to Parliament. To the south-east of the town is a promontory on
which the Castle was built, and under it is the harbor which is de
fended by a mole on the south side on which alone it is exposed.
Near the Castle Hill is the Island of St. Margaret, a high rock with
a chapel on it. It is left dry at low water. From this I went under
the cliffs below the tower, and at low water cross'd the river to the
cliffs on the other side passing by some deep holes made by the

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 191
falling in of the earth, and the tyde comes into them ; here the rocks
run in strata near perpendicular but inclining a litle to the north.
We came to a bay on the other side of which we found in the rocks
strata of oyster shells and also of other shells, and at top I saw a
stratum of small shells. I returned byFinall, a romantick situation
under a hill and crossed over to a ford to the end of Tenby next the
land. On the 26th I went a league to the Island of Caldee, which Caldee.
is about two miles long and half a mile broad ; there are high cliffs
round it with some few bays, the strata are likewise hear perpen
dicular and run from the west and by north to the east and by south;
a litle north of it is St. Margaret's Island to which there is a passage
at spring tides, it consists of the same kind of rocks. Among these
rocks are strata of different kinds. As going from the eastern bay
to the north we came first to the stratum of coral then to one of St. Margaret's
shells, and saw a variety of welks sticking to the walls. I went all ¦'^'^'^"¦
round the island and to the south-east saw some belemnites and
asterlffi. The north part is marble, the south they told me is not.
It is a fine island for pasturage, for corn, and for rabbits, and they
have a spring of excellent water. Here are the remains of the cell
which belong'd to St. Dogmael, and was given to that abbey by
Robert Fitz Martin's mother. Tenby is famous for the largest Tenby oysters.
oysters In the world, they are about seven inches over; in drudging
for them we found the Echini, twelve fingers and fourteen fingers of
the five fingers {sic) ; we saw a great number with the oysters sticking
to them. I found a spungy sort of a fish full of water, and on press
ing it a great number of cylindrical bodies came out like mamlllse
and returned in when relax'd, which I suppose to be all so many-
different animals like the Polypus. TJhey have also the Pecten
which they call hens about two inches long, growing not much
longer ; both the shells are convex, whereas one of the shells of the
scollop Is flat. They also find in the sands at spring tides the
echinus call'd which is covered with a sort of hair ; they are
full of spawn, and the very thin shells are often found on the north
coast of Wales as well as here. From Caldie we saw Lundy very

192 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
plain and the land to the south-east of it about Ilfracombe in Devon
shire. On the 27th I left Tenby and in two miles came to the collieries
of Sanderfoot, from this place they go on the strand to Larne, the
collieries continue for about three miles eastward and sloops come
on the strand and the carts go to them and load. They separate
the large coal from the culm ; the latter sells at 35s., the former at
£5 a hundred, which is ten cart loads, of six barrels to a cart. In
two miles we came to Erivare, Mrs. Elliot's, a handsom new large
house built with battlements. We came into Carmarthenshire,
keeping on the strand, and turning off from it about four miles
farther; in two we came to Lame, situated near the rive Tave on a
creek, and on each side of two valleys water'd by rivlets; the
situation is very beautifull and romantick. They have a well-built
castle ; a view of the front is here seen. It Is remarkable for a bow
in the middle, in which is the door, and the windows over it ; the
upper one was, it may be, the first of the kind of our Venetian
windows. There is a tradition that it was built by S'^ Jn° Perrot.
They have an export here of oats, barley, wheat, butter and beans.
We here cross'd the ferry, and in two miles came to Llanstephan,
where there is a good inn, and to this place travellors use to come
who can pass at low water and avoid a troublesome ferry. On the
hill over Llanstephan are ruins of a large castle. Here we came to
the river Tavy, and travelled near it for about two miles; the
country on each side is very fine, consisting chiefly of small hills
well cultivated, and then we went about four miles at some distance
from the river to Carmarthen. Llandillo in Caermarthenshire,
Aug. 30th, 1756.
Carmarthen is situated on a rising ground, on the north west
side of the river, which winds beautifully through the fine meadows ;
on each side of which are low hills, highly improved, which alto
gether form a most delightful scene, and the. same all up the river

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. 193
with the addition of a fine cultivated vale opening on each side.
The town consists chiefly of three short streets and a very large
suburb; the old gates and some ruins of the walls remain, and very Carmarthen,
litle of a large castle, which Is turn'd into a jayl. There Is a good
key to which ships of 150 tuns can come up, as they have eleven
feet of water. They have a great trade in butter for London, and
of wheat, barley, and beans to all parts, mostly coast wise ; and
they are famous for pickled salmon. In the church Is an old monu
ment of S'^ Risan Odoly or Risan Dowdal, with the couchant statue
of a man and woman ; and there is a very old one of one figure on
the ground, with the right hand on the breast; this is the ancestor
of Mr. Rice, of Newtown. Just without the town is the Northern
road, and some litle remains of the priory of Black Canons, founded
in 1148. Merlin, the prophet of the 5th century, was of this place.
There is an ill built round tower to the town house.
On the 28th I went on by the river, and in a mile passed by
Aberguilly, where the river Guilley fall into the Touy. Here the
Bishop of St. David's has a house, and usually resides when he
comes into the diocese. In this place Bishop Beck founded a col
legiate church for 22 prebendaries, 4 priests, 4 choristers, 2 clerks,
annexed by King Henry 8* to the collegiate church of Brecknock,
Three miles further I passed a large bridge over the river Leffy,
which falls into the Touy ; a litle further we had a view of Treslane
Castle, a singular situation on a high hill near the river, it belongs
to Mr, Vaughan, Further on are several gentlemen's seats, glo
riously situated and adorn'd with fine plantations, and coming
towards Llandello-vaure, commonly called Llandillo, a spacious and
extensive amphitheatre of low hills appears. This litle town is Llandillo.'
situated under a hill on the Toui, and as it is the high road from
many parts to Brecknock, Hereford, and many great towns on the
Severne, there are good Inns in it. Having a desire to see the
furthest town this Way I set out in the afternoon, and in three miles
passed near Tarryaron, Mr. Gwyn's, on the foot of this hill, a large
house, fine situation, and most beautiful plantations. In two more
CAMD. SOC. 2 C VOL. IL

194 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
miles I came by Abermarlas, an old mansion house, belonging to
Lady Maud, with a park'; and rideing five more arrived at Lan-
dovery, a small town near the conflux of two or three mountain
torrents, one of which runs thorough the town, and between them
both it is often terribly overflowed. It is supported by being a
thorough fare from Brecknock, 14 miles off, to all these parts, being
distant from Tregavon 14 miles, from Lanidlos 31, from Cardigaii
28 ; to all the southern parts they go by the towns on this river.
There is but one gentleman's house beyond to this place, which is
to the north-west on the Braire, There are ruins of a small old
castle here on a litle hill, with outworks and 4 fossees round it. A
litle above this place the mountains are not much cultivated, and
make a very different appearance from the beautiful hills below. I
saw in the church a very particular red and green marble, which
they told me was of this country. We return'd by Langadoc, a
very poor sort of a village, tho' a market kept at it. They call it
18 miles from Swansey, the road being in part by the river Southy,
a branch of which rises near the river on which Swansey stands,
but the greater part of the road is on the mountain to the north-east
of the river. The fatigue of this ride was sufficiently recompenced
by the beauty and variety of the prospects ; and descending
to Llangadoc, we saw the fine cultivated hills which form an
amphitheatre round the litle plain. One hill, in particular,
to the north of Llandillo, affords the most delightful and rich
prospect I ever beheld, especially as it is seen in the street going
out of the town. At Llangadoc, otherwise Llancadane, the Monasticon
mentions a collegiate church with a precentor and 21 canons, of which
seven were priests, seven deacons, and seven subdeacons, as founded
by Beck, Bishop of St. David's, In 1263, but doubts whether it was
carried into execution; near the church yard is an old building
call'd, if I mistake not, Manner Court, and probably belongs to the
impropriator, and might be the habitation only of the common
priests who attended the service of the church. From Llandillo I
walk'd a mile to Denver Castle, within half a mile of Mr. Rice's

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE. 195
house of Newton, belonging to his estate, and just over the river ;
it is a large ruin, with a fine round tower in It of much the same
size as that at Pembroke, but not so high. From the top of it Is the
most glorious and richest prospect I ever beheld ; below the river
winds through most beautiful meadows, and by Golden Grove on
the other side, the estate of the late Dutchess of Bolton, whose body
is deposited within the parish church ; there are fine plantations
about this place ; we saw most delightful hills almost as far as Car
marthen, and the prospect up the river of all those hills and vales I
have already described in the way to Llandevery, and a view of the
upper part of the valley through which the river Southey runs near
to Llangadoc. I return'd by Mr. Rice's house, lately fitted up with
an addition of a turret at each corner and battlements at top. This
gentleman is lately married to Lord Talbot's daughter, and his
grandfather and Mr. Stanley of Hampshire and another gentleman
married the co-heiresses, daughters of Mr. Hoby, of Neath Abbey,
in Glamorganshire. This river abounds in pike, salmon, eels, and
seuin, rather bigger than herrings, which some say are young
salmon, others that they are a particular species of fish. The
country people fish in corricles, made of a few wattles in the shape
of a half oval, about five feet long and a yard broad, with a seat
across the middle and a hoop like a handle by which they carry it ;
'tis cover'd over with tarr'd flannel, and in these they fish for
salmon, two of them holding a sort of a scelne net and draw it to
when they fish. They pitch night hooks with worms on the banks
for pyke and eels. I enquired here for the Ichthyomorphi Lluldii,
and found 'em to be what was called the Anthropo Morphe, but is
since found to be the Pediculus Marlnu^ of which I have seen pre
served in spirits, and are a sort of a sea grub ; they are found about
Anglesea and North Wales. They are here all flat, and are found
in two quarries of stone, which they say is not a limestone, one in a
field to the north of the town, where they are rather small, front one
inch to two inches long ; the other, Vhich I suspect to be a sort of
tortoise, in a quarry near the river and towards Denever Castle ;

196 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
they are from 3 to 5 inches broad. I saw none of the whole length,
and all of the other quarry are more compress'd ; these are rather
more convex, however. I do not imagine that the former were so
much of the crustaceous kind as those of Dudley. They cover their
houses here with a thin stone, which they bring from Pen Arthur,
near Kilywen Lluid. They manufacture Welsh webs in this country
only for their own use, and they make some very good blanketing of
two breadths, being the same kind of manufacture, only a litle thicker
and well knap'd. Swansey, Septr. 1st, 1756.
I set out for Llanelthy, and went thorough the park of Golden
Grove, which Is very well timber'd, and from the heigths in it had
several fine prospects. We soon came to the mountains, which are
soft, but not deep. We had a view of the fine vale in which the
river runs to Llangadock, and in it of Carigkennen Castle on a rock,
and further to the north of it the hills call'd Kfllmen Lloyd, beyond
which is Pen Arthur towards Llangadock, and this must be the hill
on which, "it is said, there is a circle of stones called Bruarth Arthur
(King Arthur's throne), like those at Role Rich. At the first
entrance on the mountains are rocks of marble, of which they make
lime on the spot; and coming on the other side of the moun
tain, I saw Chalybeat waters all the way to Llanelthe. We had
a view of the vale in which the river runs to Kidweley, where I
formerly was; it is a poor litle town. There was a Benedictine
priory here subordinate to Shirbourne, and founded by Roger, Bishop
of Sarum, about 11 30. We had also a view of that fine vale in which
the river runs which falls into the bay to the east of Llanelthi.
Coming from the mountains we arrived at a small village call'd
Llannon, said to be seven miles from Llandillo, which it took us up
three hours to ride, and 4 from Llanelthe two hours more. We
mistook our road, and going by an house of S"^ Thomas Stepney's
we came to Llanganoe, near the marsh which is pross'd to Langhor
Castle, two miles further, which place is only 4 miles from Swansey ;

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 197
but we in a manner came back 3 miles to Llanelthe for accommo- Lanelth^.
dation, a very poor town, where S"' Thomas Stepney has a good
house in which he lives. The chief support of this town are the
neighbouring collieries, which are very near it. There is nothing
remarkable about the church, but a small square tower to the east .
of the chancel, with a very litle octagon spire on it. On the 1st of
September we went four miles to Llanghor ferry, but the tyde
being not come in, we went a litle higher and forded over after a
guide. This litle town, which depends also on the coal trade, is Llanghor.
prettily situated on a promontory, which is in the sea at high water.
There is a very pleasing valley in prospect to the north, through
which the small river runs that falls in at this place, which is but
four miles from Swansey across that neck of land which joyns that
promontory to the land, most part of which is called the land of
Gower, interpreted to be the Land of Men or Giants. If the tyde
had not been too far in, we should have had a very pleasant ride to
Penclah Burn, two miles to the south, but we were obhged to go
round by the marsh, to cross over a bridge, and then by a very bad
road 4 long miles to Periclaharn, known by the sailors by the name
of Burry Harbour, which is esteem'd a very fine one, the vessels
when the tyde is out lying on a soft bottom ; and when the tyde is
out it is but two miles to cross over to that point of land which is
nearest to it at Llanelthy ; here they load coal iind bark. We went
three miles further on this head to Webley- Castle, belonging to Mr.
Talbot of Margam ; it is finely situated, commanding a view of the
country about Llanelthy, and of what they call'd Penbranhead, to
the east of Kidwelly, which I suppose is the same as Penbraye in Penbranhead.
my map, commonly call'd the quarter .master's map, made by the
direction of Oliver Cromwell and engraved by Holler. We had
also a view of the fine rocky sea cliffs to the south west on this
point, and ascending the hill to the south east we had a fine view of
a vale between the hills which are the barriers against the sea at the
end and both sides of this head, being bounded on the east by a fine
bay, on which is a small town call'd Penrice at the south west angle

198 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
of it, and a litle to the south a church and house, a most romantic
situation on the side of the rocks, adorned with wood and over the
bay ; to the north west the large castle of Penrice. I stop'd and
dined with Mr. Walker, minister of Penmahen (top of the rock),
Pcnmahen. and going on we first pass'd through a most delightful uneven
country and near Pennent Cas'tle, then over a heath and soon came
to the strand, over which we went 3 miles to Swansey, in all six
from Penmahen. We saw on the west side Oyster mouth, built
near the sea and up the sea cliff, and the houses whited (as is the
custom in this country) make a very pretty appearance.
Llandaff [September, 1756].
Swansey is very pleasantly situated in the bottom of a large bay
at the mouth of a river, which runs near the town through a very
pleasant narrow valley, but higher up as well as that of Neath they
say is rough and full of collieries. I observed on the bay the
stumps of large trees and also a boggy ground, that seem'd to have
produced good turf, which shows that the sea has gain'd on the
land. They have built an handsome new church to an old chancel ;
it is supported by Dorick pillars with galleries. In the chancel is
an old tomb with a couchant statue, and a hatchment of Hugh Gore,
Bishop of Waterford and LIsmore, who dyed here in 1691. When
he lost his understanding, he was hurryed away by his Welsh
relations, who made a new will, which after many tryals was set
aside, and is quoted In the law books as a point of law. In a chapel to
the north of the chancel is a tomb of Mathew Cradoc's, deputy to
Charles, Earl of Worcester, Steward of Gower. There is also a
tomb of the Hobby's of Neath Abbey. There are remains here of
a grand castle belonging to the Duke of Beaufort ; it is in the style
of that of St. David's, and it appears plainly that those arches and
battlements were deslgn'd as a shelter to the roof in an exposed
situation. The Herbert palace, also, was a fine house of about the
time of King James the First ; it is built round a court. Over the
entrance are the Herbert arms quartered with three boars' heads,

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 199
and this motto often repeated round it, ILE8KYMEE0P, the English
of which, I was told, is, " Where I take." This house, and a
considerable estate in the town, descended with an heiress to the
family of the name of Powel, near Cardiffe. There is a good key
here and it is a large town. They have had great business in
building ships, timber being plenty, but now In time of war they
have litle business in that way. They have also a considerable
coal trade, but the great support of the town are the smelting
houses near it up the river, and a work for making iron plates, at
a litle distance fi'om the town, and dipping them in tin to make
vessels of different kinds. On the 1st of September we cross'd over
the ferry and went about two miles by the strand, on which I
observed some very beautiful compositions of pebbles, that probably
would be very fine if polished. We turned towards Neath, and
passed between fine low hills cover'd with wood and corn, and
commanding a view of the remarkable ruins of Neath Abbey and
of the copper works on both sides of the river of Neath, of
some villages on each side of the river above it, as well as of the
valley and beautiful hills on each side of.it, and especially of Mr.
Mackworth's house and plantations, just over Neath, which also com
mands a very fine view. We descended to Neath Abbey, as it is
now call'd, but it is In the parish of Cadveston, and I suppose was
call'd by that name. Litle remains of the Abbey is left, except some
arches, which seem to have been the ancient refectory. The
church is much ruined, but appears to have been very grand, it is
in the shape of a cross, there were seven arches In the lower part on
each side, and seven windows, and as many over the great arches,
and there were three on each side of the ends of the cross isle and of
the chancel. It seems to have been in the finest and highest Gothick
taste. Richard de Gralnville (one of the twelve Norman lords to
whom this country was granted) and Constance his wife g^Ve this
church in their castle and the tythes belonging to it to the convent
of Savigney near Lyons, who founded an abbey and ])ut Into It the
order of Savigney or Fratres Grisel, who became Cistercians. A
large house in the manner of building of the time of King James 1st

200 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
was built on the spot of this abbey, and now it is inhabited by
labourers in the neighbouring works and mines. It belongs as
mentioned before to the families of Rice, Stanley, and who
married the three co-heiresses. I went a small mile to Cadvestone
and returned and went over the bridge to Neath, a small town which
depends on the collieries, copper works, and great markets for cattle,
which are bought up here by English graziers. They have built a
handsome new church to the old tower. And there are remains of
an old castle defended at the angles by circular towers. At a
colliery near this town, belonging to Mr. Powel, and if I mistake
not called Melinanthen, they find a slate near the coals in which
there are impressions of fern and other plants of which I procured a
specimen. I set out on the east side of the river and passed near Briton
ferry, where Bushey Mansell, the last Lord Mansell, had a very
pleasant house, in a most shelter'd situation, with fine plantations
about it, it now belongs to his only daughter. He was third son
of the first Lord Mansell, was succeeded by his grandson, who
soon dyed ; then the title came to the second son  his
sister was mai-ried to Mr. Talbot of Laycock in Wiltshire, to whose
son the estate was left : he is Mr. Talbot, late Minister of Collng-
born in Wilts, who at present lives at Margam, to which place we
went six miles, having steep low hills to the north all abounding In
coals. I omitted seeing the mountain Mynydh Drymmee to the
left of the road in which I came to Neath over the Abbey, where a
stone is mentioned call'd GIstvaIn (the stone chest), another Maen-
hire (the great stone), near which are two circles of stones, and south
of them a smaller stone set up at end. At Burton ferry a chapel is
mention'd supposed to have belonged to an hermitage. [September, 1766 ]
Margam is pleasantly situated at the foot of the hills, about a
mile from the sea. In 1 147 Robfert, Earl of Glocester, founded an
abbey here: they were Cistercians. In 1210 thev entertained

DE. EICJEAED POCOCKE. 201
King John and his whole army in their way to Ireland, and on his
return he excused them paying a tax laid on the Cistercians. It
became the estate of the Mansells, who were enobled In 1711. The
second lord was grandson of the first ; he was succeeded by his uncle,
who was succeeded by the youngest son of the first lord, and was
the last of the family. The second son cut off the entail and left
the estate to a sister's son as above, the Rev'^ M' Talbot. A very
large house seems to have been built out of the old abbey, great
part of which has been taken down by the present possessor and by
the last Lord. The chapter house remains, and is a very fine
building, covered with an arch rising from the middle pillar, which
was composed of eight round pilasters, from each of which spring
three ribs of arches, 24 in all ; It consists of twelve sides. There
was one grand entrance from the cloyster under 2 arches, with a
small one on each side, on each side of which were two large arches.
There seems to have been another entrance from the north by a
fine Gothick porch. The body of the church remains, the arches
of which are of the most simple Saxon architecture, the pillars
square and quite plain, corresponding with the double arch; some
of the old windows of the north isle seem to remain which are very
plain ; on the south side are some remains of the inside wall of a
Gothick cloyster. In a chapel to the south are four grand monu
ments with couchant statues, probably the four generations from the
Reformation, there being a grand table monument to the father of
the first Lord In the chancel. To the north of the church is a Gothic
building called the infirmary, and in the street there Is a Gothic
peculiar cross of one stone, and on the side of the hill in the wood a
large ruined chapel. In the garden they have fourscore large trees,
mostly oranges and lemons and some citrons and bergamots, which
usually supply the family with fruit ; the first Lord used to send of
the fruit every year to Queen Anne. They say that the original
of them were some taken out of a shipwreck and that they have kept
them up ever since by graffing. The park and estate Is finely
timber'd, and a rivlet runs down the hills through the park and by
CAMD. SOC. • 2 D VOL. IL

202 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
the house, which might be improved Into a very beautiful thing.
There are very fine stables here built by S"^ Edward, father of the
first Lord. The ceilings are adorn'd with stucco fretwork, and the
stalls are carv'd : some of the best rooms of the house are over the
stables. To the east, on a rising ground, is a very fine summer
house of two floors, and built of hewn-stone and cover'd with lead,
the stair case is very grand, fineered with walnut, and the balusters
carv'd in Corinthian pillars, the floors are inlaid, the wanscoat
carved and gilt, with marble slaps to the windows, and the entrance
paved with marble of different sorts, some of which are very
beautiful, and all from the quarries of Gower. On the hill of
Neath I saw the English land, about the bounds between Devon
shire and Somersetshire, between Mynhead and Ilfracombe, which
is computed seven leagues over. On the 2nd I went on and soon
came to Eglwys Nunny, said to be a nunnery to Margam Abbey.
The present house seems to have been an old chapel, the west end,
with a cross on it, remaining. A litle farther in the road we saw
on a rough long stone this inscription : —
P: MPGCIVS
CAEANTO PjIVS
We then pass'd in sight of the ruins of Kentig Castle among the
sand banks, which belonged to Robert Fitzhammon ; the town was on
the sea, but was burnt in the wars, and it is said there are hardly
any signs of It. The Lord of Margam puts in annually the Con
stable of the Castle. I went two miles further to Newton to see a
spring, to which there is a descent by several steps, it flows and
ebbs contrary to the tyde; this has been accounted for by supposing
that there is a natural syphon in the earth. In the church is a
stone pulpit, on which there is a barbarous relief, of one standing,
and a person on each side holding his legs with a cord, and having
a flagellum in the other hand lift up to strike with it: whether
this is designed to represent the scourging of our Saviour, I cannot
say. The people have lately put up a very bad picture of the
Ascension. We travelled about a mile round by the strand to the

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 203
mouth of the river Ogmore, and soon passed near Ogmore Castle,
which belonged to William de Londres, We went a litle higher
and came to two passages under the rock, through which a rivlet
falls into the Ogmore, and near that on an eminence is the small
covered chapel cal'd St. Roch, with a remarkable open belfry for a
very small bell. We crossed the Ogmore on a bridge, and came to
Wenny on the river Wenny. Here was a Priory of Benedictines, Wenny.
founded by S"^ John Londres, Lord of Ogmore Castle, and given by
Maurice de Londres as a cell to Glocester Abbey. The cross isle
and east end of the church remain entire, but of the church only
one row of pillars, which are four feet diameter, the capitals of
which are very plain. There is some very singular architecture in
this church, as every other turning of the arch from the pilasters is
circular, which is something of the Gothick ; and the pilasters are
Attick and supported by consoles, this order being rather in a
barbarous taste. The tower is very large and entirely in the
simple Saxon taste. Wenny is a large scatter'd village, and they
have a pottery in it. There is a very good mansion house adjoyning
to the church in which M'^ Turbervllle lives, the last of the
descendants of the twelve Norman chiefs ; but the estate of Corfy
has been for some time out of the family. [September, 1756.]
From Wenny I went a mile to St. Bride's, where, in the church,
i.s a stately Gothick monument of the Butlers, two couchant statues,
and .the ornaments round the figures are very fine Gothic workman
ship. We went a mile to Nashe, which was the grange, as is
commonly said, of Netley Abbey, but \ should think more probably
of Wenny. The shell of the barn, almost entire, is, they said, 215
feet long. The point here on the sea has its name firom this place,
and near this point, two miles farther, just on the sea, is St. Donat's
Castle, the seat of the Easterllngs or Stradhngs, one of the twelve
Normans ; it is a very noble pile of old building round a court, and
kept In fine order. There is a grand old hall, with the arms of the

204

THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF

S. Donats
Castle.

Cowbridge.

twelve Normans, and an account of the estates which fell to the
share of each of them ; from the top of It is a glorious view (which
we had mostly In our ride) of the sea and of the coast of Devonshire
and Somersetshire, and that so plain that we could distinguish the
fields. The court is adorned with busts set into round niches ; and
there are hanging gardens down towards the sea. The descent to
the church, in a hollow on one side through groves of trees, is very
beautiful and romantic. In a chapel on one side was the family
burial place, in which the oldest monuments are some pictures of the
1 6th century. In the middle is a fine marble tomb to the memory
of the last baronet and of his elder brother ; the latter had a great
character, and dyed, if I mistake not, at two or three and twenty ;
the other dyed at Montpelier, at 28, in 1738, neither of them having
been married. The estate came to Lord Mansell, and is now by
Chancery divided Into four parts ; this castle and about 700 a year
belonging to S' John Tyrwhit, Some bad paintings are mentioned
in a house below the castle, which I could not see as it was lock'd
up. About a mile to the west is Lantwich Major, or Llan S*' Ittuti.
I was too late to go to it.' Germanus and Lupus, who were to extir
pate the Pelagian heresie, form'd a University here, and it is said
there is an old church there, and an older west of it, and a remark
able stone in the church yard. It is not settled whether Bovlum
was at Cowbridge, or at Boverton, near this place ; a gentleman,
who is of opinion that it was the latter, saies that there are some
remains there. The ride from this place by the seaside to Cardiffe
is, they say, extremely fine. I went five miles to Cowbridge, situated
in a fine country on a small rivlet which falls into the sea. There
are remains of the walls and gates. There Is a well endowed free
school founded here by S'^ Lionel Jenkins, who was of mean parent
age near this place ; there are exhibitions from it to Jesus College,
to which foundation he left £800 a year, and some annuities to rela
tions to be paid out of it. On the other side of the rivlet is Llan-
blethlen Castle, which belong'd to Robert St. Quintin, one of the 12
Normans, The grand gateway is Gothick, but the building within

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE. 205
it seems to be very ancient, was probably British ; the walls are
eight feet thick, the outside for about eighteen inches is built with
lime, but all the rest with a coarse clay. On the other side of the
road is a large ruin, as of some office. On a hill to the west is a
parish church, and near is a ruin as of an old church. From
Lanblethiean I had a very distinct view of Lantiscent (Church of
three Saints), near which place is Lord Talbot's estate, which came
by his wife, an heiress of the family of Jenkins, of Hensol. About
two miles west of Cowbridge is Golden Mile, where Robert Fitz-
hammond beat and slew Justin ap Gwrgant, the last British prince
of this country. From Cowbridge we went on and came to a heigth
near to S'' Edmond Thomas's, which commands a very fine view of
Bristol Channel, the Holmes, Somersetshire, and King Road, and of
the beautiful country of Glamorganshire; and after travelling a few
miles we came to Llandaff, on the river Taaf This church was
founded by St. Dobritius in 520. There is a grand Gothic entrance
to the church, but nothing of the old Saxon building, except two
fine Saxon doors on the north and south sides very highly adorned.
The Gothick windowes of the isles remain, and they have finished
it above with sash windows like a play house, and made a modern
front of Roman architecture, and the east end in the same style
with a Venetian wifidow, so that altogether it is the most absurd
improvement that ever was made. Another particular I observed
in this church is monuments erected to children of a few weeks old,
which I am told is common in Wales. This church lost its great
estates soon after the Conquest, when the first church was destroyed,
and it was rebuilt in 1147. The north-west tower of the church
was built by Jaspar, Duke of Bedford^ which probably is that of
the later Gothic front. The Bishops did live in the castle. It is
said there were Roman remains in the Bishop's garden, on which
spot Admiral Mathews built a large house. Coming to Llandaff we
saw to the left St. Tegan's, the estate of the late Mr. Lewis, now
Lord Plymouth's, where, In May, 1648, 3,000 of the Parliament
army beat 8,000 Loyalists, having had a skirmish the day before at

206 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Ely Bridge, which we passed a mile before we came to Llandaff,
In two miles from this ancient see we arrived at Cardiffe, [September, 1756.]
The town of Cardiffe is pleasantly situated on the river Taaf,
about two miles from the sea, the river running through a dead
flat, something inclining to the marshy, which makes the air of this
place rather unhealthy. The walls of the town are above a mile in
circumference; the principal streets are pretty well built, but there
Cardiffe. are many indifferent houses towards the outskirts within the walls.
There is a fine tower to the church, adorn'd with beautiful Gothic
pinacles. Without the town, to the north-east, is a very fine old
house in ruins, built with beautiful bow windows of the architecture
of Queen Elizabeth's time ; it is on the spot of the Black Fryars, aud
belonged to the Herberts, as did the great house at Swansey, aud
it is now the property of Mr. Powel, To the north-west are some
litle remains of the White Friars. At the north-west part of the
town is the castle, near a measured mile In circumference, encom
passed with a wall and deep^ fossee. The entrance of the castle
seems to have been built about the time of the Conquest ; in it they
show the small room, in which they say Robert, the elder son of
Henry 1st, died after 26 years' imprisonment. At the north part
of the castle is a large mount, on which there is a building of ten
sides, and vaults under it ; this I should think the oldest part of the
castle. On the west side is a fine Gothic building with beautiful
bow windows, in a singular style, with coats of arms in each of
them ; this building consists of two stories over the grand floor. In
this part I have been inform'd are the arms of Richard Beauchamp,
Earl of Worcester, with a scutcheon of pretence of Isabella le
Dispenser, his wife, the heiress of that family in the time of Henry
4th. This castle did belong to Robert Fitzhammon, leader of the
12 Norman knights who conquered Glamorganshire, and held their
castles of him. The Red house, the principal inn of the town, was
built by the ancestor of Mathews of Thomas town, in Ireland ; it is

DR, RICHARD POCOCKE. 207
a fine old house, with old wainscoat, &c., and some old furniture
remains in it. This town subsists, chiefly by being a thorough fare,
and by its shops and markets, and some iron manufacture. From
Cardiffe we went northward, ascended the hills and came to some
collieries ; they find a stony stratum for 5 or 6 feet before they
come to the coal, and on the outside of this they meet with a vein
of iron about a foot thick. We descended the hill to the famous
castle of Caer Philley, situated on a rivlet in a bottom encompassed Caer Philley.
with hills, five computed miles from Cardiffe. This castle which,
without the least doubt, is British, consists of three kinds of archi
tecture ; one rather simple, and seems to be an imitation of the
Roman walls round their towns, and consists of 3 solid towers or
rather upright buttresses nine feet broad, seven feet and a half deep ;
the wall on each side is built in a strait line for one foot eleven
inches, and then in about a quarter of a circle for seventeen feet six
inches ; these arches in the wall are strengthened at bottom by
buttresses, which come out so as to be even with the wall, and rise
with an inclin'd plane to the heigth of twelve feet and end in a point.
These buttresses seem to be an imitation of the Roman architecture,
but the circular part is caprice, contrary to all the rules of architec
ture, by which a building, erected for strength, was weakened on
the south side ; adjoyning to this wall Is a fourth tower, which is
semi circular, and seems to have been on one side of a gateway over
the rivlet, there being another on the other side, which was a way
leading to this part of the castle, there being a large semicircular
building to the south of the rivlet, defended by two other such
towers, one at the bottom of it, the other on the other side. The
first building mention'd seems to have been a simple square en
closure, of which there are some plain marks within, tho' every
thing there is destroyed. To this most singular wall, which I
have described, there joyns on another building of as singular
a kind. First, a very large tower ending In a semicircle, which
mav be 30 yards in diameter; at some distance from this, but
joyn'd by a wall, Is a very grand gate-way, defended by towers

208 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
of five sides, near this is a smaller entrance, and then at equal
distances are four large towers of five sides ; but to the sides
on each side of the middle part, as well as to those on each
side of the gate are buttresses rising up, it may be, fifteen feet
in the shape of a half pyramid, which shows the odd humour of
the architect in making those towers of five sides, which would have
been stronger, if they had been only of three. The third kind of
architecture is Gothic, and is in a manner a very grand castle with
in these with a magnificent entrance and a very fine round tower at
each corner, the walls of which are about ten feet thick, and the
diameter within about twenty. They all of them appear to have
been destroyed by force except one, and one of them is a very great
curiosity: it seems as if they had undermined it, so as that one side
sunk down and broke off from the other part and overhangs eleven
feet, a drawing of which may be here seen. There is a grand hall
on the south side, and the consoles from which the arches rose are
adorn'd each with three heads not ill done. It Is observable this
extraordinary building Is not mention'd before the time of .Edward
2nd, before which time probably this great addition was made, and
caused it to be look'd on as a very strong fortress, which without
doubt belonged to some of the most powerful Princes of this country.
It was afterwards in the possession of the Clares, Earls of Glocester.
Mr. Watkins is of opinion that this was the Bulseum Silurum. and
that he found a farm house near it call'd Caer Vace (the Royal City)
and refers to Baxter on Bulseum. A litle beyond this place is a
manor in which the lands gavel and divided into many small farms ;
the country is exceeding populous. Leaving Caerfily we soon came
to the river Romney which divides Glamorganshire from Mon
mouthshire, aud travelled by it in a most beautiful hilly country,
coming into Monmouthshire. In the road I was shown Ruperra
summer house, where Mr. Watkins told me he was inform'd by
Mrs. Morgan the proprietor that a skeleton was found upright but
soon fell to dust.
We went on to Tredegar Park and to an old British camp on an

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 209
eminence In it, defended by three fossees. From this place we had
a fine view of the country, and saw under us Mr. Morgan's large
house where there is a very grand greenhouse. From this place we
came to Newport. [September 1756.]
Newport is finely situated on the side of a hill and on the river
Usk. Near the church on the hill is a Celtic tumulus, with a large
tree on the top of it. To the castle on the river are two grand Newport.
entrances, one of which was to the water, where the tower on each
side is of five sides, and strengthened with such buttresses as at
Caerphily. They have a way of collecting coals on the slub on
each side of the river, when the tyde is out, and have boats for
that purpose ; among it there is a great deal of charcoal. When
a tax was imposed on this coal they left off collecting it, and took
it up again when it was taken off. This is a poor town, but as it
is a great thoroughfare there are two or three good inns. From
Newport I went three miles by Christ Church on a high hill to
Caer Leon. This was the Archbishoprick over the seven Bishops
in Britain, independent of any Patriarch before the coming of
Austin the Monk, This was Isca Legionis, The second Augustan
Legion was stationed here, and they find on the bricks LLG • II •
AVG, It is situated on the river Uske. One may trace the old
fosse round the walls, and many Roman bricks are found about the
place. The hollow of an amphitheatre appears about 25 paces
from the walls. There were eight vomitoria to It about six yards
wide, at the distance of about 22 yards. There are some stones
round an old cross in the churchyaud which I thought might be
remains of the seats, I went five miles to Pontepool in a very
romantic situation between the hills on a rivlet which falls into the
Uske at Caerleon, Here Major Hanbury, father of the present
possessor and of S' Charles Hanbury Williams, ambassador in
Russia, set on foot great iron works of many kinds, which occa
sioned a litle compact town to be built here. The houses and
CAMD. SOC. 2 E VOL. II,

210 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
buildings belpnging to this manufacture are scatter'd, and extend
for above a mile along the river. Here they work iron from the
ore into several sorts of utensils. They make wire, nails, and
plates of iron for tin. This latter secret was learnt in Saxony, but
immediately Improved, for they did It by hammers ; but Mr,
Pontepool. Hanbury invented 2 iron rollers, which can be scrued together at
any distance. They take a piece of red hot iron about four inches
broad and five long and put it between the rollers, which roll it
thinner ; then they double it and heat it, and so continue doubling
and putting It between the rollers untill it is thin enough for the
purpose ; the thinnest they make Is for tags to Manchester laces
used by the ladies, 450 of them go into a box 5 inches and f deep ;
these plates being soak'd in a composition of thin sal armoniac,
and some other things are dip'd into fire, which, especially in the
thin plates, incorporates with the iron. What they call double
block tin is done with a finer tin, and Is less apt to rust, as well
as the very thin sort. Of a thicker kind of plate they make
salvers and candlesticks and many other things which they japan ;
I am told the light parts of this in imitation of tortoise shell is done
with silver leaf. They adorn them with Chinese landscapes and
figures in gold only, and not with colouring, as at Birmingham.
This ware is much better than the Birmingham, but is dear, there
being only two brothers and their children, who make It and keep it
as_a secret. They will also japan copper boxes, or anything made
in copper which they cannot well work in iron. Mr. Hanbury has
a good house and gardens and a fine park here, and it is a most
delightful summer retirement. They have a particular way of pro
curing iron ore ; they make holes in the mountains for rivlets to run
into, which bring down iron ore when there are floods, and when
the waters fall they pick it up ; some time agoe the rock open'd in
the bed of a river, and the water took its course down the hole, but
this carrying off the water, the country people fill'd up the hole,
and the rivlet took its usual course. The manufacturers and miners
all over the country wear crimson flannel shirts and no other gar-

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 211
ment over them, which looke very well, and is proper to dry up the
sweat of those who work at the fire, which it Is said would otherwise
prejudice their health. From this place having been most generously
entertaln'd by Mr. Hanbury, I went five long miles to Uske. This
is supposed to be the Burlum of the Romans; there are remains of
a large town, most of which seem to have been built about the time
of Henry 7th and before. It was a flourishing town, for they had
the iron manufacture here, particularly of nails, till within these flfty
years, that it has been moved to Pontepool ; there are several good- Uske.
old houses in the town. There was a religious house here ; the
church is now the parish church. The old tower is the only remains
of the Saxon building. In the house near which seems to have
been the site of the convent are no remains, except an old square
tower. The castle on the side of the hill over the town seems to
have been mostly of the British architecture. [September 1756.]
From Uske I went four miles to the south east up to the point of
that hill which is known by the name of Wentwood, and extends a
good way to the north, being a forest, which belongs to the Duke
of Beaufort ; on this point is a ruin'd building call'd Kemys's follv.
We went up to it to enjoy the fine prospect, which takes iu the
British Channel, Somersetshire, King road. King's Weston, the
mouth of the Bristol River and the Severn and Gloucestershire, Wentwood
every way indeed a most glorious view. We descended and passed
by a chapel in the middle of a clump of yew trees, and came to
Penhow Castle, a small private fortress on an eminence, most of
which is destroyed, to make room, for a modern house; this was
the seat of the St. Maurs. Near this place we lay. About three
miles to the north is Strigol Castle, from which place the Clares, Strigol Castle.
Earls of Pembroke, had the title of Earls, of Strigol : it was built by
William Fitz Osborn, Earl of Hereford.
On the 7th we went on two miles to Llanvour Castle, which
seems to have been a litle fi)rtifyed town on an eminence with a

212

THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF

Caerwent.

Caldecot
Castle.

castle at one corner of it, and probably some people retir'd to it
after the destruction of Caerwent ; there is a low wall remaining in
one part with a semi-circular water table, and there are remains in
another part of a round tower and an apartment like one of the old
halls ; the walls extend near a mile in circumference. I copy'd out
this extraordinary inscription on the style to the church yard —
Whoever hear on Sonday
Will practis Playing at Ball
it may Be before Monday
The Devil will have you All.
We went a mile further to Caerwent, the Venta Silurum of the
Romans, situated on a flat ground near a rivlet which falls into the
sea near Caldecot Castle, and it's said there was navigation to this
town ; the walls are built with towers of five sides, as I suppose, at
about thirty paces distance, for I found two of them to be so far
apart ; there are some remaining on the south side, and a sign of a
tower built with the walls at the south-east corner. They have
found a Mosaick pavement here with a beautiful border round it
and in different compartments ; I saw the figures of a stag and a
bird, so that probably it was a temple to Diana the goddess of the
neighbouring Wood of Went. They find a great number of Roman
coins here, mostly of the Lower Empire. We went on another mile
to Caldecot Castle, which did belong to the Constables of England,
and gives the title of Baron to the Duke of Beaufort. On this spot
Harold might have built his fort against the Welsh in 1066, which
it is said they destroyed ; it Is a most noble building, about half a
mile from the sea. There is a grand entrance to it, from which to
the east there was a large hall and other apartments adjoyning;
there Is a round tower In the front of the entrance, and a square
one opposite to it on the north side ; and at the north-west corner
a very noble round tower on a mount, with a semicircular tower
adjoyning to it for a staircase, as I suppose, for we could not get
into the tower ; this seem'd to be the stronghold, to retu-e Into in
case of distress. Very near this Is Port Sheath, and a Htle beyond

DR. EICHAED POCOCKE. 213
it at Sudbrook is a very strong semicircular camp with a triple
ditch, it is on the sea-cliff; the bow measured within 330 paces, the
string about 240, but it was not in a strait line. Near it is the
small parish church call'd Trinity Chapel in ruins. There is a
Roman road from it, and this seems to have been originally a British
camp, yet it was probably made use of by the Romans. M''
Watkins makes this observation, on this road ; speaking of the pre
sent passage, he saies, " higher on the Severn stands Aventon, the
Abone of the Romans, which was the Trajectus into Britannia
Secunda. It is ix. miles from Caerwent." He supposes the Julia
via began there, and lead to Venta Silurum, and that the road we
saw near the camp at Trinity Chapel was that road. He imagines
that when the Romans landed at Aventon their ships coasted the
Severn, and that this camp was thrown up in order to secure a
retreat for their ships, and conjectures that after that they built
Caerwent. This parish consists only of 400 acres belonging to
M' Vaughan, and Is farm'd by one man. We went about two
miles farther to Matharne, an ancient house of residence of the
Bishops of Llandaff ; it is but a mean building. Over the gateway
are the King's arms and Bishop's, with an inscription under them ;
the Bishop's arms Is the pall with an inscription in it and round it.
We went near the new passage across the mouth of the Severn,
about two miles below the old Aust passage, and in three miles
came to Chepstow. We had seen the tower of Dundrey church on
the heigth in Somersetshire towards Glassen bury, which is seen at
so great a distance from many parts.
Chepstow is situated upon the side of a hill, on the west side of
the Wye, which rises at the bridge fifty-two feet, and sometimes
has risen to feet, as may be seen in the Philosophical Transac
tions. The church did belong to the religious house of
founded It Is a very ancient Saxon building, the west part of the tower Chepsto
being made the east window ; all eastward is entirely destroyed.
The castle is a most noble structure, on a point over the river which

214 THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
is separated by a fossee cut through the rock. There is a very
grand gateway, with round holes down through the arch to annoy
the enemy. At the entrance to the left, at some litle distance, is
a very fine large tower ; on the outside round, and of six sides
within. There is a private small chapel in it. On the right hand
were the apartments of the castle. At the further end of the court
is the gateway to another court, which is closed at the further end
by the grandest building for a single room I have ever seen in any
castle. It is about 90 feet long and 30 broad. The lower part is
of Saxon architecture, but it has been rais'd, I believe, to the heigth
of 60 feet in a Gothic taste. On one side is a bold piece of work —
half an arch turn'd with Gothic members, so as to appear In the
grand hall ; it was for stairs to go up to the top. There are pilasters
on the side of the building next the river, and four rows of Roman
brick at the further end of the hall, about ten feet from the ground,
which extend for about ten feet on the side next the river. There
was a room under the ground room, and the great saloon was
divided by a fine Gothic arch, within which it is probable was the
bed of state. Beyond this is another court, leading to a gateway
with a tower on each side of it ; beyond it is a draw bridge, where
the point is cut off from land. This castle belongs to the Duke of
Beaufort ; it formerly belong'd to the Earles of Pembroke, the last
of whom was Richard Strongbow, who conquer'd Ireland, and by
his daughter it descended to the Bigots. This town is in a flourish
ing condition, several branches of trade beginning to thrive in it,
and it is a great thoroughfare into Wales. [September, 1756.]
From Chepstow I went a mile to Persfield, Mr. Morris's, situated
over the west side of the Wye ; it chiefly consists of a long walk
over the brow of the hill near the river, which in many parts ends in
rocky cliffs cover'd with wood, and some of them are perpendicular ;
the furthest above a mile beyond the house is an eminence which
commands not only a view of the Wye, but of the Severn, Bristol

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 215
Channel, and most of those places I have already mentioned. The
next is at an iron rail over a perpendicular rock from which one sees
below the wood, river, &c. The gardiner told us Mr. Morris was
standing on the projecting rock and that soon after it fell down, on
which he had this rail put up. The cliff must be between 2 and
300 feet high. We were then conducted to a seat, which is the
most beautiful I ever beheld ; the river winds so as to make a penin- Persfield.
sula on the other side, which is a piece of ground gently rising to a
point, on which there are two or three houses, and all this ground Is
diversifyed with an agreable mixture of corn fields, meadow, wood.
This seat commands a view of all I have mentioned to the south, and
moreover of Bristol Channel, in three or four different parts divided
by the land. The walk then winds, and there are several seats of
view; in one part where there are large stones they are making a
small Druid Temple like Roltrich. On one eminence towards the
house are several grass walks and a shrubery of a vai'iety of plants,
and beyond that the house, lawn, and plantations disposed in a very
fine taste. This is one of the most beautifull places I ever saw. On
the 8th I went ten miles to Ragland Castle situated on a small
eminence, and the seat formerly of the Marquis of Worcester, and
now belongs to his descendant the Duke of Beaufort ; it is a noble
ruin of fine hewn stone, I could not be inform'd from what place it
was brought. At the entrance to the court are remains of a gate
way of modern architecture. The entrance to the castle it self is
very grand, there being a large tower on each side, with projecting
battlements and holes all round to annoy the enemy. Adjoyning
to these arc several apartments with fine Gothic windows towards
the court. On the right hand, at the north-west corner, was tbeRagland
kitchen in a tower, and the offices belonging to it take up all that *^''™*-
side of the court. On the other side is a grand hall with a most
magnificent bow window ; the funnels of the chimney on the sides
of a window over it. Adjoyning to this, towards the next court,
were some fine apartments now destroyed ; one chimney still
remains adorned with two fine freizes, the entablature being sup-

216 THE TEA^'ELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
ported by two Cariatides on each side ; but what is grander than
all, is a multangular tower of an irregular figure in the front, with
a deep fossee round it, and a draw bridge to it which on the inside
is defended by a tower on each side rising to the heigth of the
parapet, for there is a terrace round this tower ; the front part of
it appears to have been destroyed by force, and we could find no
way of approaching to it. To the south of all is a very grand plat
form as to walk on, and there is a view from it of a very fine
uneven country highly cultivated. This place was, they say,
destroyed by Oliver Cromwell, I met with a piece of an extra
ordinary stone in the village, which they say was in a jetteau of the
court of the castle ; it looks something like the ore of antimony,
when rubbed it has a bituminous smell ; I have a piece of it, in
which there is a petrifyed cockle. From Ragland I went about
six miles to Gethly, Mr, Watkins', which is three miles to the east
of Abergavenny ; and on the 9th we went a mile to the top of a
Skirret Vaur. J^'gh hill called Sklrret Vawr, on the top of which are the foun
dations of a small chapel, dedicated to St. Michael ; about half way
down the hill is a litle valley to the west and a summit to the west
of that, which the Roman Catholicks say was divided by the earth
quake at the time of our Saviour's Crucifixion ; and they come to
this place and to the chapel in great numbers on Michaelmas day.
This hill commands a very fine view. Two miles from it is Aber
gavenny, which I passed through in 1754. We went down and
dined there, and rid up to the top of Blavons to the south of it ; the
prospect from it is very fine and extensive, as it takes in the whole
country to the Bristol Channel, the Malvern hills in Worcester
shire, as well as the hills of Gloucester and Herefordshire, and the
fine vale up to Brecknock by Crickhowel which we saw very
plainly, and the litle beautiful valley to the north of it. This hill
abounds in limestone, and there are great numbers of lime kilns to
burn for manure; in this limestone they find the Sillquastra or
palates of fish, and Glosso petrae ; and somewhere in these parts
Lloyd gives an accoufit which may be seen in the Philosophical

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 217
Transactions, of what they call fairy causeways, being litle masses
about three feet long, like the Giant's Causeway, such as I saw with
Mr. Mendez de Costa, the pillars of which were about 3 inches
long, and the whole not a foot in length, between two binds found
in Derbyshire. At the foot of this hill the youngest of the Han-
burys has a seat ; and opposite to it 8=^ Charles Hanbury Williams,
our ambassador at Russia, has a house on the estate left him by
Mr. Williams, which is entail'd on the younger brother. [Sgptember, 1756.]
On the 10th I went to see White Castle, four miles from Aber
gavenny and a mile from Gethly; it seems to be an old British
building; the strong part is defended with round towers, and it was
considerably enlarged by an enclosure, defended also in the same
manner. The cement is nothing more than clay like the castle of
Llanblethlan near Cowbridge, which with the openings of narrow
spike holes circular at each end I esteem a mark of its antiquity.
I return'd to Gethly, and went 3 miles to Llanbyhangon, a seat of
Lord Oxford's, at present belonging to the Countess Dowager, and
soon came into that valley in which the river Hodny runs, which
fall^ into the Morury. It is a narrow winding vale, with a pleasant
hill on each side. The bird-cherry as well as the quicken and yew
grow here in great abundance. Near the extremity of the county
we came to LantonI, where the vale appears as enclosed in an Lantoni.
amphitheater of high hills. This abbey was founded by Walter
Lacy (from whom the Lacies mentioned among the conquerors of
Ireland are descended) in the place where one of them and his com
panion, both hermits, built a monastery. The body of the church
and the tower at the east end of it are exceeding grand and stately
with a mixture of Saxon and Gothic architecture^ but in such a
manner as show that it was all built at once ; the cross isle is Saxon,
and the east end is Gothick ; neither of them in any wise suitable
either as to extent or architecttire to the body of the church. On
the hills to the west are some stone kerns as I was informed. We
CAMD. SOC. 2 F VOL. II.

218 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
went on from this place and soon cross'd the river into Brecknock
shire, and in two miles came to Chapel Fine, encompassed with old
yew trees ; a mile further we came to the hills, at the top of which
are the foundations of an old chapel, with the remains of an enclo
sure of stones set an end. Here a most noble view opened of the
maeandring Wye, and of the delightful vale in which It runs. Out
of these Hatterel hills rises the Munnow, near the rise of which. Old
Town, is supposed to be the Blestinna of Antonine. We descended
to the Hay, and saw in the way the autumnal red crocus growing in
the meadows, which I have been Inform'd is very common in these
Hay. parte. Hay is a long town of one street, most delightfully situated
over the Wye. A private house is built on the site of the old
castle, and at the other end of the town is an ancient tumulus.
They some time ago were stopt in building a bridge, the piers of
which were begun, but now they have obtaln'd an Act of Parlia
ment for it. There is a family of the name of which
they have always kept, at a place call'd who have
liv'd there ever since the time of the estate having
descended constantly from father to son. [September, 1756.]
On the 11th we crossed over the ferry into Radnorshire and soon
ascended the heathy hills, two or three of which we cross'd and as
many narrow well cultivated vales and came to that valley in which
the village of Glastre is situated, on each side of which are small
hills under corn ; and towards Burshop and Old Radnor they are
mostly under wood ; we ascended to Old Radnor, on the hill which
is between this vale and that in which New Radnor stands ; the
latter is an exceeding pleasant vale. New Radnor being situated at
the neck of it between the hills. We could hear of no remains of an
old town here, but were inform'd that General Gwyn had caused
the ground to be dug between 4 stones set up an end under the hill
and found some bones. Mr. Cambden supposes this place to have
been Magos or Magnos of the Itinerary. We ascended a hill and

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 2 1 9
cross'd Offa's Dike, commonly call'd Off Dike, which Offa made
from the mouth of the Wye to that of the river Dee near Holy
Well, between his kingdom of Mercia and the Britains. And
Harold made a law, that if a Welsh man appear'd without the
Dyke his right hand should be cut off". The ditch is on the Welsh
side. We descended to Presteign situated on the river Lug, a town
of two streets, consisting chiefly of wooden projecting houses; and
rose by the favour of Martin, Bishop of St. David's. As Mr.
Cambden sales in the time of their grandfathers, tho' the wooden Bresteign.
houses with the upper floor projecting, in which style most of the
houses of the town are built, seem to be of an older date. This town
consisting mostly of inns and shops is in decay, as the markets fail
very much. From this place I went near Kenson, another seat of
Lady Oxford's, which with an estate of about £700 a year was left
to the family by a relation, Mr. Thomas Harlay, who was ambas
sador In Holland. Two miles more brought me to Shobden, the
seat of Lord Bateman, built on a rising ground from which there is
a fine view of the country. The house is finished and furnished In
a very grand manner. There are many good pictures In It, and a
fine statue of Mercury of Grecian workmanship, brought from Naples.
There is a fine lawn at the back of the house, adorn'd with clumps
and single trees ; terminated with a portico, which appears like a
small temple. Up the side of the hill to the north also is a lawn
and plantations, and on It is a building, consisting of a large arch
and one smaller on each side ; they are made out of three Saxon
arches of the old church very highly adorned, and over them are
two reliefs In a very bad taste, taken out of the same building, and
beyond it is the old font which is Gothick and was adorned with
ancient reliefs ; further to the west clumps of trees form a sort of
avenue up the hill, and lead to very fine rideings through the top
and sides of an agreable hill, which commands a most glorious view
of a rich country. Near the house an old mount of a fortress
is improved Into a bowling green with a summer-house. To the
south of the house is a piece of water and a wood below it, through

220 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
which are several walks, and a piece of water appears through them
like a river. The greatest part of this beautiful place has been laid
out by this present Lord ; near the house was the church of St.
Julian which belonged to an old cell ; this was the parish church,
and about fifty years ago was removed to the spot of the present.
This church Ld Bateman has rebuilt (the tower of the old church
remaining) in the Gothic style, and it is very finely finished within
all In the same style, every part being embellished with Gothic
ornaments ; the east window is all painted glass in very elegant
taste, and the other windows are ornamented with colour'd glass :
on each side next the chancel a closet is taken off, which is open to
the church, one is built with a chimney, for Lord Bateman's family;
the other is to be a burial place and a seat for the servants. They
have a good freestone here with a greenish cast. [September, 1756.]
I made several excursions from Shobden. To the west of it, about
three miles. Is a very strong British camp, on Wapley Hill, which
commands a most extensive view, I think to Snowdon, or very near
It, in the north-west part of Wales, near as far as Chepstow to the
south-east. This camp, which may be about half a mile in circum
ference, is defended by strong fossees, In most parts three, and in
some four. Another day I made an excursion along the river Lug,
and first past by the camp, call'd Arnbry, on a high hill in the park
belonging to Croft Castle. We then came to Wigmore Castle, near
the village of that name ; it is very strongly situated, the keep is
very high, and there is a wall below which encloseres about two
acres of ground that surrounds It on every side, except to the north.
Wigmore There are great remains of this castle, tho' much of it has been
carryed away for buildings within these 50 years. This castle was
repaired by King Edward the Elder, came to the Mortimers, and
now belongs to the Earl of Oxford. Going on, we passed by what
they call the Abbey of Grange, but It is the old Abbey of Wigmore,
which was founded by the Mortimers ; there are some remains of it

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 221
in the old house. A litle beyond this is Brandon Camp, situated
near the Teine ; it Is a fine Roman camp, on a rising ground, of such
a nature that on two sides one may see that the ascent has been
render'd more difficult ; on the other two a rampart has been raised
within to strengthen the natural situation, and is broad enough at
top for four or five ranks of men to stand on It ; in one part, where
it is entirely defended by this rampart, it is at bottom twenty paces
broad. There is no way out on the west side, because it is very
steep, but there seems to have been a port at the north-west angle.
It is of an irregular shape as the ground runs, and about 800 yards
in circumference. A mile to the west of it is Coxal Knowle, a high
hill cover'd with wood ; this was the British camp, and the fosses
round It remain. A litle to the west of this I went to Brampton
Brian, an old castle, which, to the time of Edward the First, be
longed to the Brians, when It came by the female line to the Harleys.
Litle remains of the old castle, except the gateway and one side of Brampton
an old hall, adjoyning to which there was a good mansion house, ^"^°-
built about the time of Charles the First, for it was destroyed in the
Civil wars. In an old wooden house near it Treasurer Harley lived,
which has been Lttely new fronted by the present earl before he came
to the title, and here he passes most of his time in the summer, keep
ing his publick dales at Haywood. From Coxal I had a view up the
valley in which Knighton stands, about 3 miles off, on the Teine.
It is a small market town, in which the Welsh sell oates and tares,
and buy wheat. I was told that two miles (I think) on this side
Knighton is an old camp, call'd Gard Ledger. I came to Lanterdin,
and went down by the Teln for two miles and cross'd over :he hills
to Richard's Castle, on the side of a *hlll ; it was a large enclosure
with a keep, only a very litle part of one wall remains, built of bad
mortar, which I look on as a mark of British antiquity. We were
here within two miles of Ludlow, which 1 had formerly seen, and
the remains of the old castle built by Roger of Montgomery, but
Henry 1st took It to himself. In whose time it was besieg'd by King
Stephen, when Henry, son of the King of Scots, had like to have

222 THE TEAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OP
been drawn up into the castle by a hook. Dr. Gale supposes Rush-
bury near it to be Bramonlum of Antonine. I omitted to see the
Bone Well near Richard's Castle, in which the bones of frogs, as it
is supposed, are sometimes found. We returned to Shobden by
Mortimer's Cross, on the Lug, where there is a paper mill in a
large plain. Near this Cross, in Henry 6th's time, Earl Mortimer
defeated the Earl of Pembroke. Before I came to this place I
passed by Lutton School, a good building, founded by one of the
name of Purpous, for teaching the children of the neighbourhood.
Another day I went to the south-west, along the Arro, and first
saw Staunton, under Wapley Hill, where there seemed to be some
old fortification with a keep. We then passed by Haywood, where
L* Oxford has a large house and a fine lawn, with a beautiful peice
of water and great woods on the hill over it. 1 came to Kyneton,
a small town full of inns and shops, chiefly supported by its markets
for oats, wheat, and fowls, and they have a small manufacture of
coarse woollen clothes. In the east part of the church are narrow
windows in a singular style, and in the church is an ancient tomb
of the Vaughans, on which are couchant statues of a man and
woman, in white English marble. We then crossed the hill to
Walton, by which we had passed before near Old Radnor, and went
across that fine plain to New Radnor, a very poor town. The
castle, and especially the keep, was strong ; there are no remains,
except a wall on the keep. This part is separated from the rest of
the castle by two deep fossees. I should rather think that this was
Magnos or Magos of Antonine, where the commander of the Pacen-
tian regiment lay in garrison, in the time of Theodosius the Younger.
Two measured miles beyond it is a romantick waterfall, the approach
to it is between winding rocky cliffs, beautifyed with trees growing
out of them ; the rivlet runs down about fifty feet in breaks, and
then about as many more in a sheet gliding down the rock. We
return'd six miles by the way of Presteign and crossed Offa's Ditch,
and beyond Presteign passed by Stapleton's Castle, which was
situated on a rock covered with wood, but now a modern house is

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 223
built in the place of it. At this waterfall we were but four short
miles from Llandrindod Wells, which I went to see in the road from LlandridodWells
Rhyader, going to Bealt, in 1754. The following account of them
has since been pubhshed by Dr. Linden, a German : " What they
call the rock water consists of much setherial, elastic volatile mineral
spirits, of mineral balsam of the amber kind ; a volatile vitriolic acid
much of the chalybeat; a perfect sulphur, a nitrous purging salt,
participating of the nature of borax, and is good for weak nerves,
scorbutic eruptions, palsies, agues, &c. The pump water consists of
sal enixum boracis natlvi, of a like opaque bituminous earthy parts,
etherial, elastic volatile mineral spirits, of the nature of ambergreece
and a mineral oyl, and is good for scurvy, ulcers, hypochondriac
disorders, the morphew, fevers, leprosy, and gravel. The sulphur
water contains aetherlal volatile mineral spirits, a litle vitriolic acid,
a mineral unctions mucus, a fine mineral oil, a subtile crocus of
marcasltes, soluble in spirits of wine, a perfect sulphur and a neutral
salt, whose texture is a briny alkaly, and Is used both for batheing
and is drank with the batheing," I went also four miles to Leo
minster, a market town on the Lugg, a great thorough fare, and they Leominster.
have a manufacture of coarse woollen cloth, Merwald, King of
Mercia, and his successors, according to tradition, had a palace here,
on a hill to the east of the town, now call'd Comfer Castle, where
there are no remains that I could see, except some ramparts ; these
were probably thrown up round it. This king founded a nunnery
here, which was destroy'd by the Danes ; but Henry 1st gave the
lands to the Abbey of Reading, to which it became a cell. The old
church, of Saxon architecture, Is most of it standing, adjoyning to
the north side of the present chuiich ; the pillars are six feet In
diameter ; the lower part of the tower Is also Saxon ; but the addi
tion of a new Gothic church to it is very fine, the windows are of a
light architecture, and three members round are adorned with roses,
and a single member in every part of the window, as well as within;
there is a very large Gothic window to the west, the members of
which are so fine that I suppose, on their finding they began to give

224 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
way outwards, they practiced two very light buttresses up against
the pillars of it, in order to strengthen it, which is a singular thing.
They talk much of a passage underground from this place to Evlng-
ton Camp. The street near the church is paved with a stone com
posed of pebbles, of a lighter colour than those of Hertfordshire.
I went also to see Lingebrook, or, as it is call'd, Limebrook Abbey,
near the Lug, to the north of Kynsham. In an inquisition mentioned
in Dugdale it is call'd the Convent, and the donation was made, to
the Prioress ; it is the poorest ruin I ever saw, and seems to have
been a very small convent under a hill cover'd with wood.
[September, 1756.]
Pembridge. On the 20th I left Shobden and came three miles to Pembridge,
a living which belongs to Corpus Chrlsti College in Oxford. There
is a good church with an Isle on each side and a singular belfry near
the church. It was formerly a market town, but is now a poor
place. In about 5 measured miles I came to Webly, a very poor
market town tho' a Pari' borough. There is a good church here
with a fine tower and steeple ; the south door is Saxon. In the
chancel is a monument of a man and another of a man and woman,
all couchant statues, the men In coats of mail, and the woman with
the head dress rising on each side like two horns. There is a monu
ment of Colonel Birch with his statue standing upright, whose estate
now belongs to Mr. Peploe, son of the late Bishop of Chester, and he
is Chancellor of that Diocese, by marrying the sole heiress of Mr.
Birch. From this place I went two miles to Mr, Price's, one of our
party to the glaciers in Savoy, and married to Lord Barrlngton's
sister. The house is in a bottom on one side of the vale, which is
form'd by a chain of hills in form of a circus, and covered with wood.
He is practising a rideing all round the inside and outside of the hills,
which within is at least six miles, and making sheep walks down
from the wood, and corn fields are to be in the middle. From the
house there are winding walks through woods of fine young oaks,
up to the top of a Htle hill, which commands a view of the country

DB, EICHAED POCOCKE. 225
to the south-east and north-east, and of the city of Hereford, The
same view (except of Hereford) is seen on the south side of the
hills which I have mentioned, as well as of the Skiret Vaur and
Blarens, over Abergavenny ; also of Radnorshire, and a great way
farther into Wales, The north side commands as far as the north
part of Worcestershire, and the north-east a view of the opening
between the hills and of the two Butts in that vale, through which
opening Hereford is seen from some heigth about Shobden. Alto
gether the greatest variety of prospects I ever saw without going
two miles from the house. They have a quarry here of the most
beautiful freestone ; it has a green cast, and works extremely well.
I left Foxley on the 21st, and went three miles to Kenchester, the
old Arlconium, near a rivlet call'd Einbrook. The old ramparts
on which the walls were built remain. It was of an irregular Kenchester.
figure of six sides, probably following the natural situation of the
ground. It is about thirteen hundred yards in circumstance.
There are marks of many buildings, especially on the north side,
where they show'd an arch'd nich turn'd with Roman brick, which
are about a foot square and three Inches thick, and probably was a
nich in a temple, for they describ'd some pavement found here
which I conclude was Mosaick. They find much coin of the Lower
Empire on ploughed ground after rain, and frequently in fresh
earth thrown up by the moles. About a mile to the north of it is
Credenhll Camp, a high situation, and might be the .Estiva of the
Roman town. Two miles brought us to the turnpike road between
the Hay and Hereford, 14 miles apart, and In two more we came
to Hereford, passing by the ruins of a fine old cross, the lower part
of which remains, with several armsrpund it, [September 1756.]
Hereford Is situated on the River Wye and was encompassed with
walls above a mile in circumference, great part of which are still
standing. At the north gate I observ'd In two niches two statues as
sitting. This town was fortifyed by Harold, and the Normans
CAMD, SOC. 2 G VOL. II,

226 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
built the castle ; the ramparts, part of the wet fossee and the keep,
are still remaining, but all the building is entirely destroyed ; it is
situated on the river, and a rivlet fills the fossee and falls Into the
river ; they have made a fine gravel walk on the rampart and
another below round the court of the castle, which is a small meadow,
Hereford. This town is said to have owed Its increase to the devotion which
was paid to Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, who was to be
marryed to the daughter of Offa, King of the Mercians ; but King
Offa's wife got him assassinated, some say out of jealousie, for fear
he should conquer this kingdom ; others, that Offa might seize on
the kingdom of the East Angles; and some say that a compunction
of heart induced him to found the Church of Hereford. But a
manuscript in the possession of the minister of Marden mentions
that King Offa's palace was there, and that the Pope advised him
to give the site of it for building the Church of Marden, and also to
found the Church of Hereford to expiate his crime. In the Church
of Marden is a well, of which there is a tradition, that it is on the
spot on which Ethelbert's head fell, and I was Inform'd that they
have Ethelbert's well in Hereford. I should think that the Saxon
work In the quire of the cathedral was the old church, and that the
body and front was built in the time of Henry 1st as mentioned by
historians, of which the lower part and towers on each side remain,
but the middle part is of another kind of building in the Gothic
taste ; they have practised Gothic windows above within the Saxon
frames, I do not recollect whether there is any Saxon work In the
Cross Isle; if not, I suppose that there was one Isle the whole
length of the church, which is now all Gothic, I imagine what
Saxon work remains in the quire is part of Offa's building, being in
a very heavy and particular style. To the south of the church are
remains of a very fine fight Gothic chapter house, which I conjecture
might be of twelve sides ; they say there was a chapel adjoyning to
it, which has been lately entirely destroyed, and was very fine.
There Is also a large cloyster with a singular old cross in the middle,
but so as to have an opening four ways, out of which, it is said, they

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 227
used formerly to preach. To the Gothic quire Bishop Biss put up
an altar piece of Dantzick oak and Roman architecture, and on one
side Is his monument and that of the Countess of Plymouth, his lady.
To the east of the quire is the library, a very elegant Gothic build
ing, and on one side of It a singular chapel, which we could not see.
Here they have laid King Ethelbert's couchant statue, which they
say was in the quire, on the south side, probably on his tomb or
shrine. There are many old monuments of Bishops round the
cathedral (viz.), 5 or 6 in a row, each of them under an arched
recess of the wall of the south isle, which were all made at one
time, many years after some of the Bishops died whose monuments
here occur. A fine monument, two couchant statues of the ancestor
of Judge Denton, and of the Lingens, of Sutten, great partisans for
King Charles 1st, and their old mansion house is there in ruins,
belonging to the co-heiresses, but some of the family are at Ladbrook,
in Yorkshire. It seem'd to me as if a great part of the church had
been destroy'd by some accident. To the south-east of the cathedral
is the vicar's college, a building and cloyster round a large court,
where the twelve vicars and their custos live. There were probably
many more formerly. They have a hall in which they eat, which
is fitted up in modern taste, and they have public music in it at the
triennial meeting of the three quires. Hereford is supported
intirely by the thoroug fare, the shops to supply the country, the
markets and fairs, and a manufacture of gloves. There is a naviga
tion to this city and up the Wey to the Hay, tho' they seldom go
more than six miles above the city ; there are many old wooden
houses in the town. [September, 1756.]
I went from Hereford 4 miles to Sutton, and a mile ¦ further to
Marden Church, where I saw the well, what they call the Mercian
arms painted on the west end, but in place of the East Angles
3 crowns, and on the north side the red and white rose. It is close
to the Wye ; if this was the habitation of the kings of Mercia it is

228 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
probable Sutton hill was the place they retir'd to In time of danger,
Marden. which Is very strong in its natural situation, a litle help'd in some
' places by raising a terrace on the inside near 4 feet high ; on the
outside it appears all round, like . an artificial rampart, but within,
exeepting the terrace, it is all even ; it is consequently Irregular as
the hill runs, which is not high, but commands a very fine prospect
every way. There is a pond on the hill, which probably is never
dry. I Imagined I saw to the south below a fossee and rampart
made as to defend that part.
I had formerly been at Hampton Court, which did belong to
Rowland Lenthal, Master of the Wardrobe to Henry 4th. He
built this house and married a daughter of the Earl of Flanders.
The only original of Henry IV. is said to be there. The place now
belongs to the Coningsby's, enobled by the title of Earls. I went
from Sutton to Willington, near which place a tradesman of Hereford
has a house, and a summer house on the top of a hill, on each side
of which are some oaks extending over the top of the hill, and being
cut up, and only some small boughs growing out, they have a most
singular and beautiful effect. I came to Bromyard, 14 measured
miles from Hereford, situated over a stream which falls into the
Lugg ; a poor town, without any manufacture, chiefly subsisting by
the thorough fare. I went to see the church, on the north side of
which are two Saxon doors, and to the tower Is a round turret for
a staircase, which In size and make comes nearest to those In Ire
land of any I have seen. All the old houses in Herefordshire are
built with frames of wood and cage work between call'd pargiting ;
their barns and outhouses are generally built in this manner, but
with what they call lath walls, which are broad laths twisted in
between four upright styles flxed on the frames. There is one
thing remarkable in Herefordshire, that from many places you see
the whole extent of the county, which Is most exceedingly beau
tiful ; and I do not remember that I saw one heathy common In itj
being all rich profitable land ; but the roads are generally exceeding
bad, which takes off much from the pleasure the country would

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 229
otherwise afford. The common people have a custom. In all these
parts, of kneeling down and saying a short prayer when they go
occasionally into a church. All South Wales and Herefordshire
abound in stones for covering houses, and also In a larger kind for
tombs and chimney pieces.
On the 22nd I went seven computed miles, about 14 measur'd, to
Witley, Lord Foley's, and befoi'e I came to Clifton I pass'd a small
stream into Worcestershire. We came at Clifton to the turnpike
road 14 miles from Ludlow and ten from Worcester, and soon
descended by Holm Castle, S"^ Edward Wlnlngton's, near the river Holm Castle.
Teine, and a litle farther are Shelsely ironworks for making Iron
bars. We cross'd the Teine to Selsley, and came to a quarry, the
joynts of which are perpendicular, and it consists of a stone which
is brown for about two or three inches on the outside and blew
within ; in it I saw cockles and the chamey petrified, and, what I
never found before, the razor fish, one of which I brought away.
This Is Woodbury Hill, on which they say is a camp, which, by
tradition, was Owen Glendour's, but was originally a Roman fortifi
cation. I saw to the left on a hill, Aberley Lodge, M"^ Bromley's,
a very fine situation, and below It a publick house in the turnpike
road call'd Hundred House, leading from Tenbury and Ludlow to
Bewdley. Witley, Lord Foley's, is nine miles from Worcester and
121 from London; it is pleasantly situated between agreable hills,
mostly cover'd with wood ; there is a park and a piece of water on
each side of the road leading to the house, which Is built in a half
Hj and consists of a handsom gallery and a great number of good witley.
apartments elegantly furnished, and one sees In the different rooms
several things relating to foreign customs, especially the Chinese.
But what is most curious Is some presses made of fineer'd oak of a
tree which grew on my Lord's estate, which exceeds in beauty the
finest root of walnut or any other tree ; and I was told there is
enouah of it to fineer the wainscoat of a small room. But the
greatest curiosity of this place Is the church adjoyning to the house,
built of brick, with a baluster at top, window frames, and a Dorick

230 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
open portal, all of free stone. Lord Foley bought the painted
windows of Canons to adorn this church, eleven of them ; there are
four on each side, which are lengthened out by a running foliage in
the original design ; there were five windows, but two of them were
stop'd up to make an organ loft, probably before this treasure was
acquired ; this seems greatly to have hurt the uniform beauty of
the church, which I think would have been much greater if there
had been five windows on each side and none in the front, and
terminated at the west end by a copy of some good picture, or
otherwise properly embelllsh'd ; whereas now there are two
arch'd windows in the west end above, and two sash'd windows
below. But the west end is well adorn'd on the outside by a
handsom cupola. There Is a painted window at the east end of the
Resurrection ; in the ceiling also are pictures of the Nativity,
Ascension, and taking down from the Cross, with angels on each
side, holding several emblems relating to the history of our Saviour,
brought also from Canons. The whole church above and on the
sides is richly adorn'd with papier mach^ gilt in imitation of the
finest carvings. On the south side is a very fine monument to the
memory of the late Lord, by Rysbrach, erected by the dowager, in
which are the statues of Lord Foley and the Lady with a child in
her lap, of the eldest son and eldest daughter on each side, and two
other children, all deceased. Leaving this place, I observ'd we soon
came on the sandy red stone, and got into the turnpike road from
Ludlow to Bewdley, and came to the banks of the Severn, about a
mile before we came to Bewdley. This town is well situated on a
declivity to the Severn. Henry 7th built a place of retirement for
his son Arthur, here call'd TIkhenhall, destroy'd in the civil wars.
They have a handsom new built church of hewn free stone. I
crossed the Severn on the bridge, and went two miles further to
Kedderminster, where the church is a very handsome Gothic build
ing. I came four miles to Hagley, S^' George Lyttelton's. On the
23rd I went to Lord Stamford's ; we passed through Sturbrldge,
formerly describ'd, and a mile further over the Stour to Stourton,

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 231
where there Is a good old mansion house built to a square tower of
'the castle. We had pass'd by old S win ford before we came to
Stourbridge, whei'e an ancestor of Lord Foley's founded a handsome
well regulated school for the maintenance, teaching, and apprentice-
ing of sixty boys out of some neighbouring parishes. I passed in
sight of Kenver Edge, on which there is a camp, and came to
Enfield, the Earl of Stamford's, who marryed the only daughter and
heire of the Earl of Warrington, by whom he has three sons, the
eldest Lord Grey, and one daughter ; the house built like a castle,
with many additions to It, Is at the foot of a hill ; on one side is a
piece of water, and in an island is a Chinese octagon building with
a square at each end, to which there is a long bridge ; the building
stands on three arches. Behind the house Is a gravel and lawn on
each side of it, and from the end of It Is a walk up to an elegant
Gothick summer house of Mr. Miller's design; from this there is a
winding walk through shrubberies, which leads to a lawn, at the
upper end of which is a Gothic seat which commands a fine view of
the vale towards Bridgenorth, of the country beyond Woolverhamp-
ton, of Lord Ward's house, of Dudley Castle, Hagley, and of the
country to the south. We then went along the top of the hill to a
gateway that appears like a castle, and to a string of ponds which
extend down to the lawn behind the house. Near these ponds is a
pheasantry and hermitage for the keeper of the fowl. We then
went in the same direction to another valley about a furlong wide,
and is a hanging level for half a mile up the hill to a seat, having a
pleasant wood all along on each side of it. There are such a number
of hares in this part, we saw several of them feeding in the lawn.
Near the wood on the hill lives Liady Dorothy Grey, the Earl's
sister, who not far from the front of the house has built a handsom
schoolhouse for the education of girls, whom she maintains there.
On the 24th I went to Halesowen, in Shropshire ; in the church
here some of the Lyttelton family are buryed, and at the Cathedral
at Worcester and at Over Arley. The father of Adam Lyttelton, Halesowen.
who writ the Dictionary, was minister of Halesowen. Half a mile

232 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
from it I view'd the ruins of Halesowen Abbey, commonly call'd
the Manor. There remains of the large church only one of the north ^
windows of the chancel, and two of the south cross isle, all plain
Abbey. narrow windows with the mitred arch. To the south are six narrow
windows with the same kind of arch, but of a finer Gothick work
manship. This might be part of the refectory. I return'd from
this place to Halesowen, and observ'd on each side of a rivlet a
rocky bed, which produces a blew kind of fire stone, as I take it to
be. I went a mile to Mr. Shenston's, situated on the side of a
rising ground facing to the soufh. We were led first towards the
bottom of the west side, and going Into a shady walk we saw a
cascade, the water of which passes through a narrow bed into a
pond below, which might be improv'd to great advantage. We
then came round to the south, and after passing some seats we
came through an arcade made of roots, which opened surprizingly
on a water that falls down In many breaks, and is seen through the
w^ood, which has a most charming effect. Ascending up the hill,
still round the skirts of the farm, which is all meadow, we came to
a seat, which commands a fine view, and coming on the north side
we descended to a fiiie piece of water ; and ascending again we came
to a shady walk in a strait line, but uneven at bottom ; it is
about a furlong in length, with a building at the end ; we then
went into an open walk commanding a glorious view of the country
and of Dudley, as well as the town of Halesowen. We return'd
and descended to a wood and came to a steep descent, and were all
of a sudden surpriz'd with a beautiful cascade, tumbling down a
precipice, and two or three more as the river winds round, a bridge,
and different views of water, as of the same river, all down to the
large piece of water before described, which appears as part of it.
From this the descent is through a lawn to the house. There are
urns in several parts, on which and on most of the seats are inscrip
tions, mostly of the Latin poets, and some inscrlb'd to the memory
of his friends, as an urn to SomervIUe, who writ the Chace, and a
seat to Thompson, the poet.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 233
[September, 1756.]
Hagley is greatly improved since I saw it. A very fine house
with four fronts of freestone, and a tour on each angle, rising higher
than the rest of the building, have a fine effect, and as it is seen
through the trees from different parts, appears like what we may
imagine one of the Greek and Roman palaces to have been. There
is a grand gallery and saloon in It. The offices are like a litle town
to the left or north, with meadows, kitchen garden, &c., all hid
from the sight by plantations. On the right the meadows are
taken into the park, so as that the house stands on an eminence,
and commands very extensive and beautiful prospects to the west, Hagley.
north-west, and south-west. The ground to the left beyond the
house, where the garden was, is likewise now within the park, and
so will be the scite of the old house when it Is taken down. There
are some alterations in the park. As on the left, up the side of the
hill, the woods form three irregular theaters. In the largest of which,
to the right, the Prince of Wales's pillar is now placed, which I
formerly mentioned. In a half octogon building on an eminence
to the north of the waters is this inscription :
' Ingenio Immortali
Jacobi Thompson
Poetae Sublimis
Vivi Boni.
JEdiculam banc, in secessu, quem vivus dilexit
Post mortem ejus constructam
Dicat dedicatque
Georgius Lyttelton.
In the seat at the bottom of the water, which is the most beautiful
in the park. Is this inscription : Viridantia Tempe,
Tempe, quae silvae cingunt super impendentes.
In the part of the hermitage, on a seat adorn'd with bones. Is this
inscription, made in thin snail shells split in two :
Sedes Contemplationis
Omnia Vanitas.
CAMD, SOC, 2 H VOL. II,

234 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OP
On the seat, which commands a very extensive view of the country
and hills to the west and south, are these lines :
These are Thy glorious Works, Parent of Good.
Almighty ! Thine this Universal Frame
Thus wondrous fair ! Thy self how wondrous then !
Unspeakable, -who sit'st above the Heav'n
To us iovisible, or dimly seen
In these Thy lowest works. Tet these
Declare Thy goodness beyond thought,
And Power Divine. — Milton.
Between the park and kitchen garden, and a meadow adjoyning
to it. Is a beautiful shrubbery, full of curious plants and shrubs.
The entrance is near the end of the new house. There is a winding
walk which leads to a lawn in front of the dairy, over which is a
single room with a rough Dorick portico to the lawn, and to the
meadow on the other side. From this, after going a few yards, is
a strait cover'd walk, with a winding walk on each side between
shrubs and flowers, at the end of which are orange trees and other
exotlcks. There are plantations and nurseries on the other three
sides of the kitchen garden, and altogether it is a most delightful
improvement, and so is the approach to it across the meadows from
the Birmingham road. Clent Hills, which run near north and
south paralell to the park, and close to it on the east side, are a
great beauty to the place. The turf on these hills is remark
ably fine ; they rise gradually from the lower end of the park in a
long spine or ridge, on which and on the hill itself clumps of firrs
are planted, with seats to almost every one of them ; and there is
a gentle ascent made to the great heigth, which is over St. Kenelm's
Chapel, whose figure in relief I formerly discover' d on the south
wall. Here is a double seat which commands a glorious view
every way, for, I believe, 40 or 50 miles round.
About a mile from the house to the north-west is Wichbery Hill,
formerly a Roman camp, now covered with wood, and cut into
walks with seats that command very fine views, especially of

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE, 235
Stourbridge, Dudley, and the villages adjacent. And in one part,
looking towards the house, is a very well designed sylvan hexagon
temple ; the sides are open, and it is built on pillars made of the
trunks of oaks, between which lathes are fix'd, to which the rods
of ivy are nall'd on the inside and outside. Before the ends of the
rafters litle clumps of wood are fix'd, which resemble a rustick
freize, and above it is a projection as for the base of the cornish,
all made In like manner with rods of ivie. In digging in a quarry
in the park they found. In a different kind of stone from the rest
of the quarry, one of the pediculus marinus stretch'd out, now in
the possession of the Rev. D"^ Lyttelton, Dean of Exeter, as well
as a teraphim or Icunculus found In the very body of a stone, which
must have been dropt and the earth petrifyed round it many ages
past. It is of a white freestone, but has taken the colour of the stone
in which it was buryed, and Is about two Inches long, a drawing
of which may be seen on the other side.
S'" George Lyttelton has adorn'd the church in a most exquisite
Gothic taste, Mr. Miller's design. The chancel is entirely new ;
the windows are adorn'd on the sides and every part with Gothic
ornaments In hewn stone, and all the other parts of it is In stucco.
On the deling and at each end are the arms of the paternal
ancestors of the Lytteltons, in a direct line from Thomas de
Luttelton, temp. Hen. III., to S'^ George Lyttelton, Impaling their
respective wives, each coat in a seperate compartment, and in the
comiche are single shields of arms, being the same which constitute
the great shield over uhe north door. These were all done at the
expence of the Dean of Exeter, who has also given a Persian carpet
as a covering for the communion Jable. The east window is
entirely of rich painted glass, viz., four large shields made in 1569 of
Lyttelton with his quarterings impaling Pakynton, and Willoughby
of Wollaton with quarterings impaling Lyttelton, with quarterings ;
also the portrait of Lord Lyttelton, Keeper of the Great Seal, temp.
Charles I., some Scripture peices, likewise in Flemish glass, &c,,
the whole border'd with blue, purple, and green glass, lately made

236 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
at Stourbridge, The three windows on each side are in Gothic
style, adorn'd likewise with bordering of colour'd glass thrown into
pretty Gothic figures. The windows In the church are of the same
style, but plain, and the seats are in the Gothic taste. The gallery
is very beautifuly adorn'd with roses, &c., carved in the wood, and
the Communion rail is of a Gothic design. And I must not omit
that the monuments to Mrs. Lyttelton on the north side, and of
S'^ Thomas and Lady Lyttelton on the south, are no small orna
ments to the church, both which I have formerly describ'd.
About five miles from Hagley Is Frankley, the old seat of the
Lytteltons, which Prince Rupert made a garrison of in the Civil
Wars, and burnt it when he left it, that the Parliament army might
not avail themselves of it. The family after this liv'd at Arley
above Bewdley, and latterly in this place, which before was only
their hunting seat.
Since I left Hagley S'' George Lyttelton, Chancellor of the
Exchequer, has been made a peer by the title of Lord Lyttelton
of Frankley. Buckingham, Sept. 30th, 1756.
On the 28th I left Hagley and passed by Hewell Grange, Lord
Plymouth's, a large handsom house with fine lawn and water near
it. We came into Warwickshire, and avoided the ridge way, which
is called Ikenil Street, a Roman way, and is a very bad road. We
came to Studley, on the river Arrow. I went to see the church ;
the north door is of Saxon architecture. Adjoyning to it is the wet
mote that was round the castle, in which is an old mansion-house,
inhabited by a younger branch of the Lyttelton family. We passed
at the entrance of the village by the site of the Priory, founded in
the time of King Stephen. I saw a small piece of old wall, probably
the enclosure of it. Another mile brought us to Coughton, where
S"" Robert Throgmorton has a house. The gate way is of hewn
stone, and one of the finest Gothic buildings of the kind in England,
having an octagon tower at each corner. A grand building, round

DB. EICHARD POCOCKE. 237
a court of brick, with stone window frames, seems to have been
begun about Queen Elizabeth's time; a very litle part of it is
fiiiished ; on the rest there is raised a wooden building. In this
house they say the Gunpowder Plot was contrived.
In less than two miles we came to Aulcester ; they have a very
handsom church, of light plain Gothic architecture, which I was
inform'd has been lately built. Edward the 4th appropriated the
Priory here to Evesham Abbey. It is supposed that this was, a
Roman town, and gold coins have been found in some fields, call'd
Blacklands, to the left going to Ragley, which are in possession of
Lord Brook. I went a mile to Ragley, which is a grand seat of the
Earl of Hertford's, situated on an eminence that commands a fine
view of the country. It is a very large house, and seems to have
been built about the time of King Charles II. The hall is 67 feet
long, 41 broad, and. 38 high, and has been just new modell'd and
embellished with ornaments of stucco ; there are several good apart
ments in It. There Is a fine lawn, woods, and water like a serpentine
river, behind the house, and it commands a view of small hills from
the front, either finely cultivated or diversifyed with wood. From
this place we cross'd to WIgesford, upon the sluggish Avon, towards
Stratford-on-Avoii. 1 observed that the waters of this river appear
like a stagnating pond, so that one cannot discern which way It runs.
I came to a fine quarry, call'd Cranelees, In the parish of Grafton.
The first I came to was of a yellowish colour (as I observ'd) towards
the surface, and pale blew within ; this is mostly used for lime. Just
beyond it is another, in which they have sunk down about six beds ;
they told me the second was the best marble, and it polishes a grey
with white streakes ; where the shells are, there are some beds full
of cockle shells. They raise also fine flags and stones for tombs.
This is 4 computed and 5 measured miles from Stratford. Going
on, I observed in the road some stones, brought to mend the walls,
which were full of the small gryphites, and I suppose came from
Wyncot Quarry, about three miles from Stratford, near the road to
Alcester, and I saw some of It pollsh'd, which confirmed me in the

238

THE TEAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OP

opinion of this kind of shells which are in this marble, both which
stones are known at a distance by the name of Stratford marble, of
which there are several chimney pieces at Stow. I came to Strat-
ford-on-Avon, a town formerly belonging to the Bishops of Worces
ter, but in the time of Edward 6th Bishop Heath gave it up to
Dudley, Earl of Warwick, afterwards Duke of Northumberland.
They have here great markets for corn, are famous for malt, and
have a great cheese fair. The parish church was formerly col
legiate ; It is a fine light Gothic building ; in it are the grand old
Stratford. monuments of the Cloptons, also of Carew, Earl of Totness, and his
Lady, an heiress, with their couchant statues. That family being
extinct, she left the estate to her nephew Clopton, son of her sister.
But what it is most remarkable for is the monument of Shakespear,
who was born and buryed in this town ; it is a half figure under a
corniche, supported by Corinthian pillars, with an inscription under
it, and on his tombstone a copy of verses, all which are to be seen
in his Life. The comedians who were here some years ago repair'd
and adorn'd it, and added a canopy over it. In the middle of the
town is the handsom Gothic chapel, built by the same Hugh Clop
ton, who was Lord Mayor of London in the time of Henry 7th.
The bridge, as appears by an inscription on it, was built at the
expence of the above mentioned Hugh Clopton.
From Stratford I came, on the 29th, to Kyneton, a very bad
road ; here is a new Gothic church, built to a good old tower by
the care of the worthy minister, Mr. Talbot, nephew to the late
L'* Chancellor, with the help of some subscriptions, but chiefly, as I
have been inform'd, at his own expence, on a very small living, not
so good as a curacy. I went two miles further through the field
of battle of Edghill, which was in the grounds under the hill,
where they find many bullets, and came to Mr. Miller's house at
Radway. This gentleman, who lives on his estate, has a great
genius for architecture, especially the Gothic, and I waited on him
Edghill. to consult about the adorning the Cathedral of Kilkenny, the design
of which he had been so kind as to undertake. He has embelllsh'd

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 239
his own house with Gothic architecture, and has made a fine lawn
up the hill, with shady walks round it, up to the ruined castle on
Edgehill, which he has built adjoyning to- the houses of some
tenants. But he has erected a very noble round tower, which is
entire, with a drawbridge, to which there is an assent as by a ruine,
and there is a very fine octagon Gothic room in it, with four
windows and 4 niches, and some old painted glass in the windows.
In one of these niches is to be placed Caractacus in chains, modeled,
under Mr. Miller's direction, by a countryman of great genius, now
settled in London ; It Is executed in the yellow free stone. This
gentleman deslgn'd the County House in Warwick, with great con
trivance and taste, in the Corinthian order. From this town we
saw what they call King Charles Camp. They have a yellow free
stone, and between it they find a brown stone of a smooth and soft
surface, but it does not polish ; they make chimney pieces and coving
stones of it. At Horton, a little beyond the castle, they find a f free
stone, some of which is full of shells, mostly a white cockle, many of
which may be taken whole out of the soft earth. On the 30th I
went to see Farnborough, Mr. Holbeche's, a good house in a naiTow
valley; there is in It several ancient busts and very beautiful fineer'd
ancient marble tables; he has made a very grand grass terrace,
winding round the hill for half a mile ; there is an obelisk at the
end which may be 80 feet high," and in another part an oval open
summer house, with a room over the colonade. This terrace com
mands a fine view of the rich country, wliich is called the Vale of
Red Horse, from a red horse, near Tysoe, cut in the hill.
4 London, Oct. 5th, 1756.
I went from Radway to Lord Guilford's, called Wroxton, an
estate which S'' Thomas Pope left to Trinity College, Oxford, of
which hfe was the founder. His son had a lease of it, built the
house, and it has been ever since in the family. There are several
good portraits in the house, many of them Cornelius Johnson's, and
a very remarkable one of Prince Henry, King James's eldest son.

240 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
by a foreigner, who did not stay long in England. But this place
is more to be admlr'd without doors. There is a green house, with
a lawn and large piece of water. This leads to a wood through
which there is a view of the Prince of Wales's pillar, erected when
Koxton. he was here in 1749. We then descended to a serpentine river,
which is supplyed from the large pieces of water ; and going up by
it we came to the Gothic open rotundo of Mr. Miller's design, in
which he has practis'd curtains, that by turning screws let down so
as to afford shelter which ever way you please. This commands
a most delightful view of the head 'that supports the great body of
water I have mentioned cover'd with shrubs, and a cascade falls
down twenty feet from it, and forms the serpentine river which
runs by a Chinese summer house ; and there is another stream and
small cascade to the left, which leads to a Chinese seat at a gate of
this fine place that leads to Banbury.
I came to Banbury, a very indifferent town, but has a great
trade in cheese. Here the Earl of Warwick surprized the Earl of
Pembroke and his brother of the party of Edward 4th, and beheaded
them. The church is a fine Gothic building ; what is uncommon,
one half of the cross isle is rais'd in its length much higher than
the other, and so is the west part of the chancel, and is made very
light, probably for the sake of the rood loft. There is a fine old
Gothic monument in the church, but it Is not known to whom it
was erected. There is also one to Judge Chamberlayne and his
lady, with two kneeling statues.
On the 1st of October I went on in the road to Buckingham.
At Fenmere, four miles from Buckingham and Stow, we turn'd off
to the latter, and took a walk in the garden, and saw in the house
the new Brussels tapestry, and in the garden the Grecian temple
entirely finished. I observed the columna rostrata, with Neptune
on it, to the honour of Captain Greenville, who died In a sea-fight
in 1747, and the Dorick pillar to the memory of Lord Cobham,
erected by his Lady in his life time. It Is an octagon, with a large
flute on each side, a sort of a cupola at top of it, on which is Lord

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 241
Cobham's statue. There is a stair case up to it ; It is built of the
freestone of Thornborough, which looks very well; it is 120 feet
high, and the statue Is eleven feet. On one side of the pedestal
is this inscription : "To preserve the memory of her husband,
Anne Viscountess Cobham caused this pillar to be erected, in the
year 1748." On another side is this inscription: " Quoniam nobis
denegatUr diu vivere, relinquimus aliquid quo nos vixisse testamur."
From Stow I went through Buckingham, 57 miles from London,
and came to the small town of Winsldw, given by King Offa to the
monastery of St. Alban's, in a council held at Verulam in 794.
We found ourselves In a country which abounds with freestone, that
is found 4 or 5 feet below the surface, and In it cockles, hearts, and
the Comu Ammonis very large. We came to Aylsbury, where I
went to see the church, which is a common Gothic building, except
that to the chancel there are long narrow windows with pointed
arches, but the cornice seems to be of a much older date. A mile
from Aylsbury S'^ Wm. Lee has built a most beautiful small chapel,
which place I formerly saw. I came on the 2nd through Wendover
and Missenden Litle, and In about a mile by Windsor Lane, over
some commons and through woods, to Beaconsfleld, where the poet
Waller is buryed. I cross'd by F'amham, Salt Hill, Eton, and
Windsor to Old Windsor, where, not meeting with my friend, I
din'd at Staines, so call'd from a stone formerly set up there as a
mark that the jurisdiction of London on the Thames extended so
far. From this place to Brentford was the forest or warren of
Stanes, disforrested by Henry IIP- I came to London in the
evening. I went from London to Wilton, fnd so to Newtown, The whole
route I have set down on the other side. Dunkton, March 24th, 1757.
I left Newtown on the 18th, and pacied round the camp over
near Sutton ; it is of an irregular figure paces
in circumference, and commands a very fine view. I went to see
CAMD. SOC. 2 I VOL. II,

242 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
St, Cross, a mile beyond Winchester. The east end and the cross
Isle were built by Cardinal du Blois, King Stephen's brother, and is
of Saxon architecture ; the body is mix'd, but mostly Gothick, and
was built by
This was a foundation for , who wear black gowns.
There are poor men ; the master ship is £700 a year. They
have a custom of giving a piece of bread and a cup of beer to all
travellors. The Corporation of Southampton have intentions of making it
a free port, and of carrying a wooden pier two hundred feet from
the quay to defend the shipping in stormy weather, when they are
often dammag'd by beating against the quay. The town have given
£500, and several of the Corporation have subscrib'd. For there is
but litle trade at this town, and if It had not of late been much fre
quented for bathing and drinking the salt waters they would have
had very litle commerce, except among themselves. And this is a
dissadvantage .to those who are not in trade, or do not lett lodgings,
as it has greatly rais'd the markets.
I left Southampton on the 21st, and passing thorough Eling
came to the turnpike in Salisbury road, in which we went for some
time, and left it to the right to go in the road to Ringwood, which is
made very good near as far if not quite to the Castle of Malwood ; *
towards the end of It we saw the boundary stone between Eling and
Minsted parishes. Ascending the hill, we pass'd through the Castle
of Malwood without knowing it, which is describ'd as consisting of
many acres, and that large oaks grow on the banks round it. But
a litle beyond it, half a mile to the right of the road, at the summit
of the hill, we were directed to the site of the famous oak which
it Is said blew on Christmas day and wither'd before night; pales
were put up round it by K, Charles 2'^, and the tree being quite
decayed and the wood taken away, a triangular pillar was set up,
about sixteen feet high, a drawing of which may be seen on the
other side. These inscriptions on the three sides of it :
" So call'd, but is only a large Roman camp. — Note in MS.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 243
I.
Here stood the oak
on which an arrow shot by S' Walter Tyrrel
At a Stag glanc'd
And struck William the 2''
Surnam'd Kufus
In the breast of which he instantly dyed
on the 2" of August A.D. 1100.
IL
King William the 2^
Sumamed Rufus
Being slain as before related
Was laid on a Cart belonging to one Purchess
And drawn from thence to Winchester
And buryed in the Cathedral Church of that City.
III.
A.r). 1745.
That where an event so
memorable had happened
might not be
hereafter unknown
This stone was set up by
John Lord De la War, who
has seen the tree growing in
this place.
On the top of this hill I saw some barrows, and particularlv one
which is flat, with a circle round it. Somewhere near the Castle of
Malwood, as I was told, near a publick house call'd the Coach and
Horses, not long ago was found two urns of brass coins of the Lower
Empire, a cart wheel striking on an urn.
We cross'd this hill and anoth^ and two rivlets, and had the
Lord Warden's house to the left, belonging to Lord De la War ; we
should have struck out of this road to the right to go to Moyles
Court, but we went on within two or three miles of Ringwood, and
went out to the right into the road from Limington to Fording-
bridge and came to Moyles Court. This place is situated in a
bottom, just without the Forest ; it was the estate of that Lisle whose

244 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
lady was beheaded, in King James' time, at Winchester. From her
descendant this estate, being entail'd, came to Mr. Lisle's son, who
dyed abroad, and after him to his brother, whom I knew at Con
stantinople. It Is a large convenient house, and on one side is a wing which
was Lady Lisle's meeting house for Divine worship. There are
¦ very good gardens, woods, groves, and fish ponds, and Mr. Lisle is
greatly Improving the place. In the evening I went four miles to
Fordingbrldge and six more to Dunckton, which place I have
formerly describ'd. I saw Mr. Hull's house, and Mr. Archer's on
the other side of the river opposite to it, formerly mentioned.
On the 23d of March I went to MInat, on the 25th to 1/ Fever-
sham's ; and saw the house in which there is a good hall, but rather
too high for its dimensions. We passed by Mr. and
came into the turnpike from Southampton at Alderbury, about two
miles from Salisbury, and went from it to the left to Clarendon
Park, Mr. Bathurst's seat, which gave title to the Earls of Clarendon.
Here, att the south end of the park, the Kings and Queens of Eng
land had each their house, call'd now the King's and Queen's
Manor ; but there are no remains of them. Two Parliaments were
held here, temp. Henry 2*.
From this place I went about two miles to Farley, where S"^
Stephen Fox founded an almshouse for six men and six women
opposite to the church. It being his native place. On it is this
inscription — Deo opt. Max. Omnium Largitori
Istnd Quantulumcq' Grati Animi
Monumentum acceptnm refert
Scbolffi hujus et Ptochotrophi
Fundator Humilis Gratabundus
Anno Salutis reparatse
MDCLXXXI
Quid tibi DivitiEe prosunt quas congeris ?
Solas quas dederis semper habebis opes.
The church also was built by Sir Stephen Fox. It is the family's

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 245
burial place, which Is under an isle, in which are several monu
ments ; on one of them to S"" Stephen and his second wife —
Cy Gist le tres Honourable Cy Gist le tres Honourable Dame
Et tres Ancien Chevalier Christina Hope Epouse en second Noces
S'. Stephen Fox Du tres honourable Chevalier Etiene Fox
Fondateur de Ceans Elle Trepassa age de 39 Ans
Qui Trespassa age de 90 Ans Le dix septiene de Fevrier
-Le Vingt troisieme de Septembre 1718.
1716. Dieu &yh Merci de Leur Ames.
There is also a monument to Elizabeth, first wife of S'^ Stephen,
who dyed In 1696, and left two sons.
Another of Charles, the second son of the first wife, who mar
ried the daughter and heir of S"" William Trollop ; was Paymaster
of the forces to King James, King William, and Queen Anne, and
dyed at the age of 53.
Also of two daughters of L'' Ilchester and Staverdale —
Juliana Judith, who dyed in 1749.
Charlotte Elizabeth, in 1753.
From this pjace I went mostly through woods 3 miles to
TItherley, and then to Winterslow, where the Rev" Mr. Thlstle-
waite has a house, and Is minister of the parish ; and to the south
his brother has a seat, not far from the statue of Mercury on a
pillar In the London road to Salisbury, at the 77th mile stone.
Crossing to the London road we saw fine downs planted with clumps
of trees to the east, and going through Winterslow we came to the
inn on the London road, call'd Winterslow [Hut?], about 76 miles
from London. There are several barrows near it, and on the
heigth to the north a work that Jooks very much like a Roman
camp ; we saw on a hill, a litle to the east, three small arches, but
forgot on what occasion they were erected, and soon cross'd a
Roman road, which seems to be -that from Winchester to Sorbio-
dunum. I pass'd a dyke, which I imagln'd might be an ancient
boundary, and came to East Tedworth, the seat of Mr. Smith,
whose father was Speaker of the House of Commons. Land

246 THE TEAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
springs rise here and as far as Collngbom, and sometimes run down
to Shipton and Newtowntoney, near which Mr. Greathed has a seat
improv'd In good taste, and so they fall into that river which runs
under the bridge a mile or two from Salisbury in the London road,
up part of which river I went when I came from Ireland In 1754.
From Tedworth I cross'd that low hill which is called Hampstein
Gap. I saw some fossees here that were probably boundaries, for I
did not hear of any camp. In three miles from Tedworth I came
to Lurglshal, formerly a market town, but now a poor thatch'd
village, in' the road from Andover to the Devizes. There is a
tradition among the common people that King Lud built the castle,
and lived In this good air as he was infirm. It is 6 miles from
Andover, 4 from Weyhill, 16 from Salisbury, 8 from Ambresbury,
18 from Newbury, by Oxendon, Linkenholt, and Woodhay,. 12
from Marlborough, and 14 from the Devizes. It is at the north
end of the town; is defended by double fossees of an Irregular
multangular figure, and is about 800 paces in circumference mea
sured in the Inner fossee ; part of it is taken into a gentleman's
garden, and work'd into a mount. On the north side are the
remains of an oblong square tower, about 25 by 30 ; 'tis built of
flint, with the angles of hewn stone ; the entrance
seems to have been on the north side, and the walls are ten feet
thick. Near it are foundations of the manner house, and
here the manner courts are open'd. This castle did belong to
Jeffrey Fitz Peters, Earl of Essex. The estate then came to the
Brydges's, and now belongs to Mr. Sel win, and is a borough town.
In the church Is a monument of a good design, ill executed, of the
Corinthian order, open on both sides, with two couchant statues
under it, and over the arch the relief of the woman on the
man's side, and of the man's on the woman, -with several ornaments.
On one side is this imperfect inscription —
Hear lyeth the Body of Sir Richard Brydges Knyght whose Soule
Jesu take to his mercy he deceas'd the fyfth of August Anno

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 247
On the other side —
Heare lyeth the Lady Jane wife to S' Richard Brydgys Knyght
And Daughter to S' William Spenser Knyght.
His medalion is exactly in the dress of Henry the 8*''-
In the street are curious remains of the pedestal of a cross, with
a relief on each side of it much defaced ; on one side is our Saviour
taken down from the Cross, on the other side are sketches of what
remains of those reliefs.
This town consists mostly of farmers, and a great nuqiber of
labourers, who are much employed in L^ Bruce's wood.
I could get no information of Escourt, near which is a road
mentioned by Mr. Cambden, where a large urn, supposed to
be was found with two urns In it, one of which was full
of ashes and bones.
On the 25th I was going to Everley, where I had formerly been,
a camp on Sudbury hill, suppos'd to be the highest in Wiltshire, and
to have been the place of residence of King Ina ; it is defended by
a double ditch and a trench is made for it, supposed to have been
deslgn'd to secure a passage to water ; there are many barrows near
it, and it is conjectured that some battle had been fought here ; tho'
I suppose the chiefs who tended' in these camps had the honour to
have such barrows made over their bodies by their people where
they were buryed. A hare warren, I have it mentioned as near this
place, which I was told is still in being.
I went two miles to Collingborn Duels, that is, it was the estate
of the Duke of Somerset, now Lord Bruce's, to whom the advowson
of the living of £400 a year belongs. It is a village a mile long in
which several farmers live. A mile from it is Collingborn Regis of
the King's patronage ; here Mr. Delme has a country seat. From
the other Collingborn a stream runs down to Tedworth, which is
dry in summer. I went on three miles to Burbiche, where there was
a religious house. It is six miles from Marlborough, and from this
large village we struck out to the right into Savernake Forrest, and
went near L'' Bruce's house and through the forest and came Into

248 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
the London road, from which we crosii'd to Minal to M"" Pococke's,
where I was inform'd by the clergyman that an urn was found at
Ogmore with the mouth turn'd down, and it appear'd that some
bones and coals had been In it. I was also Inform'd that In
wood, three or four miles from Marlborough towards Martinshall
Hill to the soitth-west, are larger stones than any of the Grey
Weathers, which probably might afford the materials for Stone
henge. Highworth, April 12th, 1757.
On the 11th I left Newtown, and going through Newbury and
near Bagnor, I came to Wood Speen, where there is a paper mill.
Three miles more brought us to Boxford, a large village on both
sides of the river, and two more to Welford, Lady Archer's, a
large house in the bottom, and a great command of water improved
Into canals, and a piece of water with an island in it. Going
through Weston 1 mile, litle Shelford | a mile, where I saw a
small ruin like some religious house. Great Shelford ^ a mile,
East Garston two miles, where the church is cover'd with lead,
Eastbury, ^ a mile in Lamborn parish ; here are remains of an old
cross, and here I saw the stones call'd the Grey Weathers; I came
a mile and half to Lamborn, I do not know whether I formerly
observ'd that there is a handsom Saxon door to the west of the church,
and a round window in same style over it, and one of the Saxon
windows in the body. There is also an almshouse for ten people
well endowed, and one for five ; the former, I think, was founded
by S'^ W™ Ishbury, If I do not mistake the name. This is the road
from London to Auburn, and from Marlborough to Oxford. About
Auburn, and other parts of this country, they spin cotten for can
dles, for cotten clothes and stockins; and the carriers go with
cotten backward and forward through this place to and from
London. A mile further is the hamlet of Up Lamborn which is a
pretty place where this river rises. We went up the down to the
right of it, and in three miles came to the camp over the White

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE. 249
Horse at the end of these hills, which commands a glorious prospect
into Wiltshire, Berkshire, Oxfordshire, and Gloucestershire. We
passed a line to the east of it ; the camp itself is defended by one
deep fossee, It is of an irregular form of four sides, about 800 paces
in circumference ; to the north-east of It is a small hill like a
barrow, which was cut of from it : it is call'd Dragon hill ; on the
side of the hill over It, just under the camp, is the White Horse,
cut In turf, as in a trot, the green sod remains to form the body ;
it may be 100 yards in length, and is well designed. On Dragon
hill, the common people say, St. George kill'd the dragon, and show
a spot on it which they affirm is never cover'd with grass, and
there they say the dragon was killed, and I think buryed, and that
the white horse was St. George's steed, tho' all this history was
acted in Syria, as I believe may be seen according to the tradition
in the Description of the East. At the foot of the hill is a spring
call'd out of which the river Ock rises, which falls Into
the Thames at Abington. ,
We went to the west and came four miles by very
bad road to Becket, in the parish of Shrlvenham, Lord Barring-
ton's, where there is a great command of water, and the whole Is
well laid out, very fine lawns and clumps of trees, all In the farm
Way ; and near the house are walks round some of the lawn, with
trees and shrubs and evergreens on each side of them. On one side
is the water, which is very broad near the house, with a summer
house built in it, and Is continued on in a serpentine river for a con -
siderable way, with walks near it adorn'd In like manner with trees,
&c., and this is to be carried on further, ahd to be divided Into two
branches; in the church here, which is a very modern structure,
there is a singular Saxon belfrey, and the litle old windows remain.
From this place I went three miles to Colleshill, where S"^ Mark
Pleydwell has an exceeding well built house of hewn free stone,
brought from Barrlngton, near Burford. There is a wilderness
garden behind the house. But the great curiosity of this place is
the water, which S' Mark has brought to his house, and the garden,
CAMD. SOC. 2 E VOL. II.

250 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
There was a well on the side of the hill, 63 feet above the basin in
the garden, from which the water being drawn up was conveyed by
pipes to the house ; but the pipes being out of order, he thought of
bringing It under ground from the bottom of the well, which was
63 feet below the surface ; in order to make the springs more plen
tiful he dug forty yards from the bottom of the well higher up the
hill, and arches it from the level of the bottom of the well; here it
is 70 feet below the surface. He then carried the canal under
ground to the road and under some offices, about half a furlong,
springs rising plentifully for 40 yards below the well, the earth was
brought up by windlaces to the mouth of the well; it then made a
turn down the yard for half a furlong more ; here another well was
dug down in order to bring up the earth ; it was then carried Into
the garden, where they opeii'd a trench and carried it about 100
yards in the same direction, and then making a turn brought it to
the basin, and arching the whole over with bricks this part was
cover'd over ; they reckoned the whole about two furlongs. From
the basin it Is carryed back under ground, and passes down a wall
on two sides of a garden, from which it falls down through stone
pipes into litle basins, and forms another basin in a garden below.
This underground work is exactly like that mentioned between
Damascus and Palmyra in the Description of the East, and as it was
done about 8 years agoe it is probable he took his hint from that.
From this place I went two miles across a marshy common. In
which a river rises, which falls into the Thames near Lechlade, and
came to Highworth, finely situated on a heigth much like Dudley,
in Worcestershire. It is a market town, and in the turnpike road
from London to Farington and to Badminster by the places I shall -
mention. This place is six miles from Farington and 12 from
Wootton Basset. The town subsists by the thoroughfare and
markets of cheese, of cattle, and corn, being but four miles from
Lechlade ; from this place there is navigation to London ; there is
an old* cross in the market place. In the church there are light
round pillars, with octagon a ceiling of boards In compart-

DB, EICHAED POCOCKE. 251
ments, adorn'd with stars over the rood loft ; in one isle are monu
ments of the Warnefords, and of the great traveller of 1724, who
marryed Into the Dorset family, with a very elegant epitaph. In
the chancel is the monument of Mr, Derham, the minister, erected
by his son, T, Derham, who I conjecture was the writer of the
phlslco-theologlcal lectures. There are grotesque figures on the
four pinnacles of the tower. Wallingford, April I3th, 1757.
The turnpike road goes 7 miles to Crikelade, ten to Malmsbury,
and to the town and the parish, if I mistake
not, in which Badminton Is, the Duke of Beaufort's, Is situated, where
it comes into the Bath road from Glocester, &c. I went to Crick-
lade, which Is a small town with several publick houses in it ; 'tis
situated on the branch of the Thames, as I was Inform'd, call'd the
Isis ; the country people have a notion that it has its name from its
being a very cold water ; as that branch at Falrford has the name of
Caldow, as they say, tho' It Is Coin, from being a warm water.
This river rises near Minchin Hampton, which is look'd on as the
source of the Thames, as the Caldow does near Cheltenham.
Another river falls in here from the north west, call'd the Churn.
From the south, according to Speed's maps, falls in the river Rye,
and a smaller stream from the south-west, which seems to be most
convenient for navigation from the branch of the near
Wotten Basset. There is navigation to this place in boats that hold
about six tons, but 'tis only for the market of Cricklade. It is said
that this branch of the Thames could be most easily made navigable
to Bath by the branch of the Avon above mention'd, by which there
would be a communication between the Severn and the Thames, and
'tis thought that the expence would come under £100,000. They
have a manufacture here in spinning of wool and .yarn ; I suppose of
cotten. The tower of the church is on the outside adorned with Gothick
arches ; the arch and ornaments within are a very fine piece of
architecture. The ma,-i who show'd it me mentioned but imper-

252 THE TBAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
fectly that the Hungerfords were the founders of it. I observed
the bear holding a club, and another a cross, with a pidgeon in each
of the four divisions. There are In the church some few Saxon
plllats remaining. The Jenners of the neighbourhood have a
chapel here for a burial place ; there is another small parish church
just on the river called Cricklade St. Mary's. I rid five miles to
Falrford, most of It is very bad road ; it is in Glocestershire, and on
the high turnpike road from London to Glocester, which we went
In as far as Dorchester by Farington and Abington ; it goes through
Cirencester to Glocester, and from Cirencester the road from these
parts to Bristol turns off by Tetbury. It is a small market town
for cheese and corn, and abounds in publick houses ; when I cross'd
the river at Cricklade we came into the free stone country, all
before is something of the nature of the grey weathers, it is at the
distance of from 5 to ten feet under ground, and the beds are often
of great thickness. This brought to my mind a conjecture that, as
all the moisture Is drawn from the higher parts towards the principal
rivers, that there are peculiar juices to particular countries that
hardens the earth, and turns Into limestone, freestone or firestone ; the
grey weathers is, I believe, of the latter kind, and the large lumps
which are seen I believe are commonly found on the sides of hills or
rising grounds, or in bottoms having slid down from the sides of the
hills or rising grounds, and that they have been _left bare by the
continual washing away of the earth from all hills down to the
valleys. Towards the top both the one and the other are commonly
in small rubble, and here the freestone does not rise large, but it
does at Barington, near Burford, and at Barnesby, about four miles
towards Cirencester, from which place they are now supplyed. I
was told that this manner did belong to the Traceys, afterwards to
the Tames, that then it came to the Barkers, and now to Mr. Lamb-
by marriage of one who proved a sole heiress. Near the town he
has a very good house with a fine lawn before it, in which the trees
indeed are planted as three avenues ; behind this house the gardens
are laid out In the wUderness way, and there is a small park beau-

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 253
tifully adorned with clumps of trees. But what is very fine Is a
terrace on an eminence over the river, which is form'd into a very
fine serpentine for near a mile in length ; towards the north end is
a round basin, from which a cascade opens to a walk of the garden ;
this at some distance is encompassed a^ with a square form'd by
canals that spoils the beauty of the thing, which, if the angles were
broke, would form a beautiful island, as made by the division of
the waters. But the great curiosity of Falrford is the church. In
1493 John Tame, Esq., took a ship in which there was painted
glass, designed for a chapel of the Popes ; it was the work of
Albert Durell, said to be an Italian, tho' It Is a French name. Mr.
Tame being or coming to be Lord of this Manner, built the fine
church here on purpose for the glass. It is said to be 125 feet long
and 55 broad. The tower is in the middle, and the whole is of
good Gothic architecture. The windows are divided into four
compartments, but sometimes one subject takes up two, and over
every compartment are two small ones, as In Gothic windows, with
each a figure in it of a single person. In the first window which is
shown in the north side of the cross isle is Eve and the tree of
knowledge, Moses and the burning bush, Joshua, the Queen of
Sheba, and Solomon, each in its separate compartment. In the
next window, going to the east, Zacharias and Elizabeth, the birth
of St. John, Joseph and Mary contracted, married. In another
window, going on in the same direction, the Salutation, the birth of
Christ, offering of the Wise Men, the Presentation. At the east end
of this north isle, Joseph and Mary going into Egypt, in two com
partments, Christ disputing with the doctors, and the Assumption
of the Virgin Mary. In the east window of the chancel, Christ
taken, praying in the garden, before Pilate, scourging, bearing the
cross, crucified, with soldiers on each side. There is a window only
on the south side of the chancel, the vestry being to the north. In
that window Christ taken down from the Cross, and put into the
Sepulchre. At the east end of the south Isle is Christ anointing for the
Sepulchre, appearing to Mary, and then to the other Mary, as a

254 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
gardiner, the Transfiguration with Moses and EHas, Peter, James
and John. These and some others below seem to be wrong placed,
and that it should have been where the Assumption of the Virgin
Mary is, which should have been last before the 12 Apostles. On
the south side, Christ going to Emmaus, 12 Apostles see him when
breaking bread, Thomas putting his finger in his side. This is in
two compartments. The next Is the Draught of Fishes, the Ascen
sion, the Descent of the Holy Ghost. In the three following
windows are the Twelve Apostles, and in the last the four Doctors
of the Church. Opposite to these, on the north side, are the 4
greater Prophets and the twelve minor Prophets. In the four
windows over the body of the church are twelve persecuting
Emperors, and in small compartments over them a devil figured, all
with different appearances. Opposite are twelve Saints, the sup
porters of the church, _ probably each of them martyr'd by the
opposite Emperor. In the chancel is the monument of a Lady
Tracy," and of Oldisworth, minister of the place, and several others
of that family to whom tho rectory did belong.
I went four miles in the London road to Lechlade, where there Is
a church with a small spire, and light Gothick pillars ; here the
River Lech runs into the Thames. The great navigation for
London begins ; they have two wharfs within a basin on each side
for the barges to lye in, which are from 60 to 80 tons. I went on
six miles to Farington, prettily situated on the back and side of a
hill, which commands a view into Glocestershire and Berkshire, for
when we passed the river at Falrford we came into Berkshire.
There is a Saxon door and pillars to the church, in which are
buryed the knights, to whom there is a monument with
two good couchant statues. In the dress of about the time of Henry
the 7th. S' Henry Purefoy and the Pages the present lords.
Farington Is 9 miles from Wantage, Starford being about the
middle way. Wantage is in the road to Oxford from Marlborough
* A daughter of John Lyttelton of Frankley, in Worcestershire, Esq., who appears
by her epitaph to have been skill'd in all the learned languages.— iVote in, MS.

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 255
by Highworth, and the road from Wantage to London is by
Wallingford and Henley, and a stage coach goes from that town to
London. In three miles from Farington I pass'd by S'' Willoughby
Aston's house, two miles further by Buckland; opposite to this
place is a very good house, M'' Brotherton's, called Pusey ; two
miles and a half further is M'^ call'd Longworth Lodge,
and in a mile and half we came to Kingston, where I lay at Kingston
Inn, a very good house. London, April I4th, 1757.
On the 13th I went on from Kingston, and In a mile pass'd
through FIfield, and in half a mile more by Tubney, Captain Stone-
house's. In three miles came to Shippon, where I observed in the
free stone, coraline petrifications, and those very large. On this side
Farington I first observ'd the free stone which extends, I suppose,
beyond Shotover hill near Oxford, and as I recollect, all along
towards Aylesbury, and so across the country on the high ground
through Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, opposite to
the Chlltorn chalky hills, which are to the south-east, and extend
from Cambridgeshire to the Isle of Purbeck, there being another
chain of chalky hills from Dover through Kent and Sussex. A mile
more brought us to Abington, of which place I have formerly given
you an account. I observed an old gate, I believe the east gate,
with a statue over It, and the town house is a fine building of hewn
stone of the composite order above, with two arches at each end and
four on each side. The arch'd windows are no advantage to it.
From this place I went through an exceeding fine country mostly
near the Thames, six miles to Dorchester, passing by a ferry which
is a short way to Wallingford. I went to see the church at Dor
chester, and shall add my observations to a former account. The
old north wall of the church Is standing with one Saxon window
remaining in it, to which the ancient tower is built, the old cornice,
the south wall was probably where the middle row of pillars within
now stand, and the two true arches of the cross isle remain; all the
rest seem to be new Gothick work. Round one of the pillars, as for

256 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
a sort of shelf, is a stone work, on which is cut the parable of the
Foolish Virgins. The east window and the north window are so
divided by mullions in a Gothic taste that at the joyning of them
our Saviour's history seems to have been cut in relief, part of which
remains; but on the north window the genealogy of Christ from
Jesse, as in a tree, is represented. On the south side are the three
seats for the officiating persons, and an arcade for the elements with
two basons, and holes at the bottom for pouring out the water that
might be left. The lower part or pedestal of the font is talk'd of as
a very old thing, tho' I think I am sure it is not so old as the Con
quest, being Gothic ; the bason cast in lead has greater marks of
antiquity, there being reliefs round it very much in the Greek taste.
They show a monument of Segur, Earl of Cornwal ; I observ'd an
old camp on the hill on the other side of the water. I went from
Dorchester five miles to Wallingford, there being a shorter way over
a ferry. Wallingford Is a ffne situation on the Thames, and a very pretty
town. It Was a place of note in the time of the Saxons, and in 1006
'tis said 'twas destroyed by the Danes ; it was a borough in the
time of Edward the Confessor, and the castle was surrendred to the
Conqueror. It was often besieged by King Stephen, but a peace
was concluded here between him and Henry 2d. The Glocester
road went through it till bridges were built at Abington and Dor
chester. There are remains of the old castle and of the keep, which
was encompass' d' with a wet ditch. The old fossee and rampart are
remaining ; the south part is call'd Cliny Craff and the west side
Bull Craff. There were formerly twelve parish churches here ; at
present there is only one very Indifferent church In service. There
was a priory here of Black friers. Trinity Church near the west
gate belongs to the Abbey of St. Alban's ; Wolsey got a grant of It
for his College, and on his disgrace coming to the king, it was. If I
mistake not, given back again to Christ Church College. I went to
Nettlebed, where I have been since inform'd there is a spring which
never falls in the driest summers. And from that high ground we

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE, 257
descended to Henley, most delightfully situated on the Thames ;
there is one church in the town, in which there Is a handsom monu
ment of the Dorick order with this inscription on it —
Memorise Sacrum D Dominse Dominsaa Eliz' Periam viduce Quondam
uxoris Domini Koberti Doyley denuo Henrici Neville, ultimo Gulielmi Periam
Militis Qua3 in hoc oppido Scholam fundavit educandis pauperium filiis viginti :
E. F. Balliolense Collegium in inclyta Academia Oxon unius socii et duorum
scholarium ditavit obiit autem Anno Domini Millessimo Sexcentessimo Vicessimo
primo Maij Sexto.
Near the town Mr. Cooper, a banker of London, has a very good
house ; has adorn'd the opposite hill, and made a beautiful entrance
into the wood, and erected a building in the island below. Lower
Mr. Freeman has a fine house. But the most beautiful situation Is
Park place, which belongs to General Conway. The house Is
situated on the hill a mile above the town, bging shelter'd on each
side two fine points on the hill, which commands a most glorious
prospect. On the 14th I crossed to Maidenhead, and came by Braywick to
Lord Harry Pawlet's in the forest," and near Cranborn Lodge to Beauclerck
Sunning hill, and from that place In the evening to London, having 1"^™ ''
given an account before [of] all the places I pas.s'd through.
Richmond, April 30th, 1757.
On the 23rd I went from London to Aldersbrook In Essex, and
going to Marybone passed that fine New way which from Padington
communicates with all the northern roads, so that going over the
ferry at Stepney one may now go all round London by Westminster
Bridge and by Petty France.
Aldersbrook Is gaeatly improv'd, a walk being made all round
it, and a gate at the angle nearest London, which way leads to the
nearest piece of water, on the north side of which is the beautiful
hanging kitchen garden and a greenhouse, which makes a very
" Mr. Bulkely's a litle beyond is an exceeding good new built bouse and fine
offices, and by Colonel Clayton's. — Note in MS.
CAMD. SOC. 2 L VOL. IL

258 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
good room. Clumps of trees are planted before the house as .well
as behind it, so that altogether it is become a very fine place. I
went to see a house call'd Valentines, near Ilford. It did belong
to Archbishop Tillotson, and is now in the possession of Captain
Raymond of the East India Company. The house is very finely
furnished with India goods, particularly there are the several build
ing of a Bramin's house cut in ivory, in which he receives people
nearer or further from the entrance according to their quality. A
unicorn's horn of a light colour and greenish cast about eighteen
inches and much larger at the buts than the horn of the rhinoceros,
it is in a neat irregular figure, probably by art. 'Tis said this horn
grows in the forehead of this animal which lives in the kingdom of
Assam, I also' saw In the canal a Chinese duck with the wings
rising up on each side as represented in the Chinese pictures. I
pass'd through London on the 28th, and at Hamersmith saw Mr.
Dodington's house, lately belonging to the Duke of Athol ; he has
new model'd it In a very elegant taste, and 'tis finely furnish'd ; but
the gallery, which is the length of the house, is a very beautiful
piece of architecture of the Ionic order ; there is a Venetian window
at each end and two windows on each side of an arcade supported
by two fine pillars of Italian marble ; in this arcade is a colossal
statue of Flora, and in a nich on each side a statue with bronze
groups over them. On each side of the arcade and the Venetian
windows are busts on terms with bronze groups likewise over.
The heads of those at the ends of the room are of porphiry.
Between the windows are statues, as well as between the looking
glass opposite to the windows. At each end Is a column with
a vase on them of Oriental alabaster, and one of the pillars is of the
same fineer'd, the other of some very fine marble. The pillars of
this door at entrance are of lapis lazuli fineer'd, which cost four
shillings an ounce, 'Tis said they were made for the late Prince
of Wales, The cov'd ceiling seem'd to be of the Caterani form.
The whole Is paved with fine marbles in beautiful figures. The
back part of the house consists of a fine large room, highly adorned

DR, EICHAED POCOCKE, 259
with gilt carv'd work, and a small room at each end of it. Behind
the house Is a lawn and plantations to the river, and there Is a walk
some way by the water side.
From this place I went to the Duke of Argyle's, a small mile from
Hounslow, where the duke began a plantation mostly of evergreens
and American plants about 28 years ago, built" a green house and a
menagerie for different kinds of forreign fowls. The whole is laid
out much In the wilderness way, with a broad walk of grass all round
The Duke has lately built a small house, cover'd with a single roof
like Lord Westmorland's, and long narrow offices are built on each
side, to which there are passages at each end from the house, as to
communicate with every one of the four rooms, of which I take it
the house consists.
From Hounslow I went in the road to Bath to Cranford bridge,
which is over a stream that rises towards Uxbridge, and leaving
that road to the left I had Heston, Lady Bulkeley's, to the right,
then passed through Harllngton, and by L'^ Uxbridge's seat at
Drayton came Into the Uxbridge road at Helllngdon. Pass'd
through Uxbridge, seeing the late judge Talbot's, a very pretty
place to the right, and going in the Oxford road we had Mr. Way's
to the right, near the road to Chesham and Rickmansvvorth, pass'd
by the Aylesbury road and came four miles to Gerard's Cross, at
the park wall of Bulstrode, the Duke of Portland's, which I came to
see. This was the seat of the first Earl of Portland. The ground
and plantations of the park are very fine ; on an eminence to the left
is a British camp. There was a long avenue to the house which
was taken away and a kitchen garden near it Is removed; to the
left was a lawn to which there was a steep descent of several feet,
all which Is now forming Into grass'wlth a gentle descent, behind the
house is a wood with walks through it and round It ; and a parterre
is forming In one part and in another a shrubbery. At the further
end of it Is a canal covered with wild ducks ; from this there Is a
descent to the left to the dairy and menagerie, in which several sorts
of birds and fowls are kept and breed, particularly Chinese pheasants

260 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
of both kinds. The dairy is adorn'd with a Chinese front, as a
sort of open summer-house, and about it are some pieces of water
for the different water poultry. In the same vale is the kitchen
garden lately wall'd in and planted, in which are all sorts of con
trivances for ripening fruits.
On the 29th I went from Bulstrode by Fulmere and then by
Langley Park, where the Duke of Marlborough has built a very
handsome ,nevv house of hewn stone, with four fronts and five win
dows In the principal fronts and seven on each side. We came Into
the Bath road a mile to the west of Colnbrook, and going through
that place turn'd to the right and came to Stanes, where the Coin
falls Into the Thames ; we went to Chertsey, and then about two
miles further to Mr. Southcote's within a mile of Weybridge. This
Is the first improvement in the farm kind, and Is esteem'd the most
elegant. In England, It consists of walks to the left, first round two
meadows on rather high ground and then round another on low
ground, on the right side of them , through the further side of which
a canal Is made from the poultry house, which is In form of a
temple, and extends towards the Thames. These walks are adorn'd
not only with plantations of wood but with spots and beds of
flowering shrubs and other flowers to fill up angles, and other shrubs
to diversifie the scene ; from the end next the house and behind it is
a piece of water form'd like a river, over which there is a bridge
that leads to several small fields mostly of corn and some meadows
with walks and plantations round them. This was the first begin
ning of the farm. From this place I pass'd through Weybridge to
Oatlands, Lord Lincoln's, famous for a terrace, lengthened by the
present Earl; It Is over a hanging ground, at the foot of which is a
meadow bounded by a serpentine river, which with the Thames
seems to form a large Island; the only objection to it is that tb.e
banks appearing to be made with art It looks Htle In comparison of
the Thames ; but this might be alter'd by making the banks a litle
broken, and by planting them in an irregular manner with withy
and other trees. At first entrance strangers are lead Into a winding

DB, RICHARD POCOCKE. 261
walk to the left through shrubberies, and so down the hiUs to a
nursery, laid out like an elegant parterre, In which there is a basin
for Chinese fish. And near it there is lately made another enclosure
for all sorts of exotic plants that will thrive abroad, with boards
plac'd over them on which their names are cut. In the lawns sheep
are grazeing ; and at the end of the terrace is one of Inigo Jones's
gates with this inscription on It : —
Henricus Comes de Lincoln
Hunc Arcum
Opus Ignatii Jones
Vetustati Corruptum
Restituit
Anno Georgio I'
XXI.
There are several acres of ground at the entrance laid out In fine
lawn, and planted with clumps of trees in a very beautiful manner.
I went through Walton to Hampton Court, passing by the large
enclosure of Abscourt, and then near Moulsey ; I saw the Palace
here, and besides, Raphael's cartoons. I took notice of the
of Csesar, painted by Andrea Malntelno, which, if I mistake not, are
engraved . And in another room the Battles, &c.
of Alexander, by Le Brun, executed in very fine tapestry, I went
through Kingston by the river to Ham, and to Richmond Hill.
On the 30th I went to see Petersham, the Lord Harrington's ; the
house is of good architecture, Lord Burlington's design. The back
front Is .the grandest, In which there Is a room at each end of a
peculiar form, joyn'd to the main body of the house in front by a
colonade, but the communication with it Is from the house it self.
There is a fine lawn before It, and an ascent to a green terrace, above
which is a wood with walks through It up to Richmond Hill, and there
is a shady walk to It on the side and by the end of t he lawn from the
entrance. I went by Roehampton and Wimbleton, the park being
shut up, and passed near Merton, and came into the turnpike road
to Guilford by Epsom, and going near Mitcham I came to the part

262 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
of the road near Cheme, and turning to the right came to None Such
Park, and to the site of the Royal Palace of that name, the history
of which I have given in the travels of 1754 and 1755. From the
Dutchess of Cleveland it came to the Duke of Grafton, who sold it
near thirty years ago. This park consisted of above 500 acres.
On the other side of the high road to Epsom was Worcester Park
of 1000 acres, which L* Leicester bought of the Duke of Grafton
for S"^ George Walton, who was steward to them both, and it has
been since sold in several parcels. I examined the foundations of
the Palace, which appear to have been built round a court. I saw
signs of the foundations of towers to the north, which I suppose to
be those represented in Speed's maps of Surrey ; the grand front
seems to have been to the south, as there represented, and there are
ruins of offices for twenty acres to the south ; t'ney said also that
there was a avenue to the east, and there are remains of a large
canal. The way to go to It is to keep on in the road to Epsom till
one comes within half a mile of Ewell, and then one furlong further to
the left out of the road there is a farm house built close to it. I went
on to Ewell and so to Epsom. This place was a famous resort on
account of mineral waters that are near it, of which the best salts are
made, but they are not now frequented. There are many gentle
men's seats near it. We went from It to Leatherhead, where the
waters of the Mole come from under the hill, which looses it self on
the other side, near Darking ; this river runs through Esher Park,
and falls into the Thames at Moulsey, opposite to Hampton Court.
We went toward Cobham, and had house to the left, and
afterwards L'' Effingham's, and then L'^ Carpenter's to the right;
we cross'd the Thames at S'^ Vincent's, passing first by a
large mill and building belonging to it, the property of a College in
Oxford ; and coming to Cobham we left the town to the right, and
came by S'^^ John LIgoneer's, and so to Ripley, and leaving the
Guilford road we came in a mile to the ruins of the Abbey of
Newark, of which what seems to have been the church and refectory
in part standing. We went round by a heath about 3 miles to

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 263
Woking, a market town, but a very inconsiderable place. Here was
a royal seat inhabited by the Countess of Richmond, mother to
Henry 7th, where she died. This place belongs to the Zouches, to
S' Edward, knight marshal in the time of King James the First,
and then to his son James, one of the Lords of the Treasury. The
last of them built a high tower like a pillar, which seem'd to be
octagon, in order to keep a light on It as a watch when he came from
London at night, to find his way across the heath. There is a good
mansion house built of brick, with a large enclosure, probably round
part of the Old Park. It was afterwards sold to one Mr. Walters.
The ancient house of the Countess of Richmond (as I was Inform'd
afterward) was where a farm house now stands in a meadow. I rid
three miles mostly near the Wey, through a beautiful country to
the high road from London to Guilford, to which place I came in
three miles more.
I observed at the castle remains of Saxon windows, but most of
the windows have been new made ; and the entrance, probably a
later work than the castle, Is Gothic. Mention is made of this
castle before the Conquest. There are two churches in the town
belonging to the same minister. One of them is a handsome new
brick building not yet open'd. There are some marks of Saxon
antiquity in the other. The Grey Friers had an old house and large
enclosure out of the town, [which] belongs to Speaker Onslow. I left
Guilford on the 2nd of May, and after riding about three miles
came to the Heath, and in five more cross'd over a stream at Farn
borough Into Hampshire, the seatf of the Earl of Anglesey, and
immediately cross'd at Cove, the high road to Farnham from
Bagshot and those parts, and coming to MIndley Warren we cross'd
the high road to Basingstoke, and came to Yately and Eversley,
where the Windhams have houses ; and here we were in another
high road, if I mistake not, from Ockingham into the great western
road, and we were near Finchain stead, which I had formerly passed
In the way to Ockingham. We cross'd another stream which falls
into the Lodden, and came near Heckfield that belonged to the

264 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Sturts, but is lately purchased by Mr. Pitt as a fine addition to his
estate at Stratford Sea^, where we passed, as I take it, the main
branch of the Lodden, and came to Mortimer in Berkshire, a
populous parish of great extent. We had also gone through a spot
of Wiltshire which is entirely inclosed between Hampshire and
Berkshire. We came to the heaths near Silchester, and passing
down to Aldermaston we struck off the commons to the left, and
came through Brimpton, having first observed a fossee, which
seemed to have been some ancient boundary, and so came by
Greenham Common to Newtown.

Malmesbury, May 23rd, 1757.
I left Newtown on the 21st, and going through Newbury came
to Chively, and turning out of the Oxford road about half a mile
to Prior's Court, belonging to Dr. Barton, Canon of Chrlstchurch,
where he has built a very handsom house. It is said to have been
the house of the Prior of the Abbey of Abington. I left this place,
and came by the north end of Cheveley. This place is inhabited
much by the. family of the Pococks ; and as the family of the famous
Orientalist came from this family and place, so there Is a tradition
too that our family of Hawkley in Hampshire, and my great grand
father, who was auditor of the Dutchy Court of Lancaster, were
nearly related, and liv'd there ever since Henry VII. 's reign. The
family are at this time the lay impropriators of the rectory here.
From this place I went to the right of Peysmore and Bright Walton,
came into the Newbury road to Wantage at Lilly, and went to the
left of Farnborowe, a fine situation, commanding a view into the
vale, as well as to the south, and coming on the downs left the
Wantage road on the right and came to Letcombe Castle, a strong
camp near a mile in circumference and something of a round figure,
defended by a strong ditch, with a rampart about twenty feet high
on the outside and ten within. This probably was the camp of the
enemy against the camp of the hill of White Horse, which I have
describ'd in one of my letters in my last tour. About two miles

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 265
further I saw a barrow, probably on the field of battle that had
been between them. This camp had Its name from Letcombe In
the vale at the foot of the hill. We pass'd by the camp of the hill
of the White Horse, having first seen Kingston at the foot of the hill,
where Mr. Atkins has a house and fine water, at the rise of a
stream, that soon falls Into the 01 , and afterward saw Uffington,
I have mentioned before. About two miles from this hill in the
way to Swindon I observ'd to the right some stones on an artificial
heigth, and going to it found It to be an oblong mount. Near the
south end is a stone laid on three stones, which, with two stones
at the entrance, form a room which is about five feet long and four
feet wide and four feet high. About It are several stones, which
seem originally to have been plac'd In order. This Is probably
some Druid superstition, and is call'd Old Waylam or Waylam's
Stone. The stones are of the kind of the grey weathers, which I
did not see anywhere In these parts in this journey. We went on
and pass'd near Wamborow, where there is a church with a tower
at one end, and a steeple, as I cbnjecture, in the middle, probably
at the west end of the old church, now the chancel. We turn'd
to the right to Leddenton, and coming to the bottom pass'd over
two streams, which, according to Speed, run into that river which
falls into the Thames at Inglesham, a litle above Lechlade. As
soon as I had pass'd the last I found the soil alter'd from a chalkey
to a yellow sand and clay, first without stone, and then we came to
the stone, which I shall describe at Swindon, to which place we
asserided three miles from Leddinton.
Swindon is pleasantly situated on an eminence, and commands a
delightfuU view of the villages which are at the side and foot of the
hills to the east. It does not lye in any high road, but they have a
great market every Monday for fat black cattle. The common
people work very much in the quarries. The lime stone is at the
top, about 3 feet thick and four from the surface, and in it there
are hearts, cockles, charmse, serues, ammons, horns, trochi, and
entrochi. Then there is four feet of flag, 8 feet of sand, 5 feet
CAMD. SOC. 2 M VOL. II.

266 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
main rock, which is the best sort, and then what they call hard
rock, which Is under water ; this, when cut into flag stones, never
sweats ; the main rock Is most proper for hewn stone. They do
not call it a freestone, tho' it is very much like it, especially the
limestone. I observed some small shells In some of the hard stone,
and I think In the main rock also. They raise these flag stone
very large, 8 or 9 feet long and five broad, and make very handsom
tomb stones of It, which they colour black, and the letters being
white have a very good effect, and if well done the colour lasts.
This place is ten miles from Farington, Lamborn, and Marlborough,
6 from Highworth, 7 from Cricklade, and 5 from Wootten Basset,
tho' we made It 7 by North Lediard, where Mr. Askough has a
seat, whereas we ought to have gone to the left of L'^ Boling-
broke's.

Stroud, May 24th, 1757.
I have formerly given an account of Wootten Basset. Lord
Hyde has an estate here, and the late Lord's father, L'' Clarendon,
is buryed In the church, without any monument. Mr. Brinsden
and Mr. Long have the influence to return Members to Parliament
opposed by Lord Hyde,
From this place I went 3 miles to Lediard Tragose, the seat of
L'^ Bollngbroke ; it belong'd to the late L'^ Bollngbroke's father,
and tho' by his patent the title was to run up to his father, in case
he dyed without children, yet, when he was attainted, the father
would not take the title, but was created by King George the
first St. John, which title descended to his son, the late Lord, by
another mother, and his son, on the death of L* Bollngbroke, has
taken the title ; it Is a pretty park, with a serpentine river in sight
of the house, which is a good piece of architecture, built with square
turrets at the comers, from a design of Campbelle's ; there Is a
handsom haU and apartments, and an elegant library, in which
there is a genealogical history of the family. In the church are

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE. 267
some monuments of the family, one of Queen Elizabeth's time, in
which the name is spelt Seyntjhon. There is a fine monument of
St, John with couchant statues ; he put up the genealogical table of
the family opposite to the monument, from the- time of the Con
queror, with whom they came over ; they have been doubly allied
to the Royal family, one of the alliance being by the Countess of
Richmond, mother to Henry VII. Another monument is to
who was kill'd, if I mistake not, in the Parliament army.
In the east window are the two St. Johns, in painted glass, as the
patrons of the family ; and there are some litle remains of painted
glass in the other windows. This estate came by the Tregoes and
Beauchamps by marriage with the St. Johns. In the church yard
is buryed who dyed Dean of Down in Ireland. About
1000 acres in this parish pay a very triffiing modus ; among 'em
is Priorsfield, and as the living pays something to the Chapter of
Glocester, 'tis probable this estate did formerly belong to the Abbey.
All this country abounds in stone In which there are shells. On the
23d we went 7 computed and ten measur'd miles to Malmsbury,
which is 89 from London, passing mid-way the living of Brlnck-
worth of £400 a year in the gift of Mrs. Homer, It is a fine summer
scituation, but the roads in all this country are so bad In winter
that it breaks off all neighbourhood in that season. At the point of
the hill to the south are some remains of the Abbey of Broadstock
near unto the road from Wotten Basset to Chipenham and 4 miles
from the former.
Malmsbury is finely 'situated on an eminence where two rivlets
meet and fall Into the Avon, two of them bounding It on two sides ;
it is a fine hanging ground on these two sides down to the river. In
which respect it somewhat resembles the scituation of Jerusalem,
The most eastern branch, which in the map is made to rise at Han-
berton and passes by Chadleton, is that which comes nearest to the
branch of the Thames which rises near Okesey, and according to the
map are not above 3 miles apart. This seems to be the most con
venient place for joyning the navigation. It is said that Dunwallo

268 THE TBAVELS THBOUGH ENGLAND OF
King of the Britains, first built this place, and call'd it Caer Bladon
from the name of the river. This town was destroyed in the wars ;
there a castle was built call'd Ingelborne, 'Tis said the Saxon
petty kings had a palace at Caer Lurburge, now Broken Bridge,
not a mile from the castle of Ingelburne ; It belong'd to the
Bishops of the West Saxons. It is said that Madulphus, a Scot,
taught here, and prevall'd on King Athelstan and a Bishop of
Winchester, or rather of the West Saxons, to found an Abbey here,
and thus from him was call'd Madulphusburl, Aldhelm, the King's
great favourite, was the first abbot, who afterwards got him
canonized ; and the Charter from Eleutherius to Aldhelm is sup
posed to be dated at Caer Cleerburge, being mention'd in this
manner: "Achem publico juxta flumen Badon." Great part of
the Abbey church Is very old Saxon building, but Gothick windows
have been made in it. It is all down above the transept, of which
only two very high arches remain ; that to the north about twenty
feet wide, that to the east 30; they are flat arches. It is said they
supported a very fine spire, and they then were four towers, one at
each end of the transept and two at the west end. King Athelstan's
monument, with his couchant statue, remains on the south side of
the upper end of the body of the church ; it is in the style of the
statue at Ramsey Abbey of the person who is styled Aldermannus
totlus Anglise ; but they have added above the head a fine Gothick
ornament over the porch, where there is a very fine Saxon door of
seven or eight numbers adorn'd with historical sculpture, they say
was Don Scotus's study ; and there are remains of a church to the
north in the churchyard, where 'tis said his scholar murder'd him
In King Alfred's time. There is a steeple to the west of it, which
seems to have been detach'd from this building, tho' some low
fabrick joyn'd to it. In the garden of Mr. Wilkins, apothecary, is
a couchant statue of a monk with the tonsure, which does not seem
to be very old ; it was found in the church or churchyard, buryed
In the ground, A meadow near the town still retains the name of
Aldhelm. In the time of Hen. 8th Wm. Stump, a great clothier.

DR, RICHARD POCOCKE, 269
bought the site of the Abbey and church for £1500, and gave the
church to the parish. The corporation consists of a lord steward,
who is now Mr. Fox, and of twelve capital burgesses, who are
called aldermen, and must be dwellers in the town and have had an
acre of land for twenty years, and they choose the Members of Par
liament. William Somerset, commonly call'd W" of Malmsbury,
and Hobbes, were natives of this place. The former writ an
abrigdment of the History of the Kings of England, from the
Saxons to the time of Henry 1st. Aldhelm, a monk of this Abbey
In the 8th century, writ very fine Latin. They have small markets
here, and are a thoroughfare by a turnpike road, as mentioned
before, to near Badminton.
From this place I went two miles to Charleton house belonging to
the Earl of Berkshire and Suffolk. It is a fine regular old house,
built round a court In the style of Burleigh house but much smaller,
middle part of the front is built on a Dorick colonade; and there
being a court before it and a porter's lodge at the entrance It
appears as If it was built round two , courts and has a fine effect ;
there Is a handsom gallery In the house and the park Is fine. The
late Lord has been dead about 2 months and was succeeded by his
grandson. I went 3 miles to Tetbury, in Gloucestershire, situated
on an eminence at the rise of a branch of the river Avon. There
is a steeple to the church in which are monuments of the Gastrels,
and, If I mistake not, of a Lord Bruce. There are some marks of
old foundations near the church, which I take to have been of the
castle. Here the cloathing trade begins,. and it is a great thorough
fare from Cirencester to Bath and Bristol. After I left it I was
inform'd that there Is a spring near It, which Inorusts sticks with
stone. I went 2 miles to Beverston Castle, belonging to S' Baptist
Hickes ; it has been large, but turn'd Into a farmhouse. An old
chapel remains entire in it. I went on two miles to Horsely on a
branch of the river Stroude. This is the first of the cloathing
villages, which opens to a most delightfuU narrow vale with
houses all up the hills on each side, and a great mixture of

270 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
wood, that renders it one of the most delightful scenes that can be
Imagln'd. Gloucester, May 25th, 1757.
From Horseley I went through the fine valley near as far as
Woodchester, to which it was not convenient for me to go ; a mosaic
pavement was found there some years ago, and in pulling down the
chapel of St. Blaire they met with some Roman coin. Earl God
win's wife built a monastery here to expiate her husband's treachery
in relation to the Nunnery of Berkeley. This place belongs to L^
Ducey Moreton.
I turn'd up from this place and cross'd to that branch of the river
which rises near L'^ Ducey's house and runs down this vale, and by
means of heads, which have been -thrown up, makes several ponds,
which have a beautiful effect, between the hills on each side, which
are cover'd with wood, there being a very good road made on each
side. From L* Ducey's we ascended up to Forceter Hill, when of
a sudden a most surprizing beautiful prospect presented to the view
of the fine vale in which Glocester stands, of the hills to the east
and to the Severn, the Forest of Dean, and of the mountains of
Wales to the west, and of the wood and country to the south-west
as far as Chepstow. At L^ Ducy's seat, at Wickwar, I saw the
chesnut tree formerly, which is said to have been planted in 1216.
It is fenced round and much decay'd, and, if I remember, almost all
broken down, but is alive ; I forgot the measure, but have been
inform'd that It Is fifty-seven feet in circumference.
We descended to Froceter Inn, and on the 24th we went throuo-h
such another beautiful vale, being the lower part of the river Stroud
into which that which runs by Woodchester empties it self, and in
four miles came to Stroud, having first pass'd the turnpike at Cains-
cross, 104 miles from London, 14 from Cirencester, 10 from Gloces
ter, and 8 from Framicode. Stroud is a sort of capital to the
clothing villages, and Is a neat town well situated on the foot of the
hill ; the water is look'd on as very good for dying. The clothing

DR, RICHARD POCOCKE, 271
trade is in the hands of such clothiers who employ the poor, and
have been known to make 1000 pieces a year. We ascended the
hill and came in three miles to Bysley, a very small town, where
they have a Htle market ; there is a good church with a steeple, and
remains of a handsom octagon cross in the churchyard. In a
window of the church Is a couchant statue, cross leggd, with a coat
of mail, the feet on a dog, a shield on the arm, a long sword girt
round the body. This is the mother church to Stroud ; half way
between is Minchenhampton ; at Toadsmore Fryar Bacon was born,
and they pretend to show some building for his study. From this
place we went west and descended to that rivlet that runs from
Painswick to Stroud. I saw a petrifyed scollop shell on this hill,
and crossing over another heigth we came to Palnswick, a market
town prettily situated and on the side of the hill, and esteem'd an
exceeding good air ; just above It Mr. Hyatt built an house of hewn
stone, in a fine situation, and made a very pretty garden ; before It
is a court with statues and sphynxes, and beyond that a lawn for the
grand entrance; the garden is on an hanging ground from the house
in the vale, and on a rising ground on the other side and at the
end ; all are cut into walks through wood and adorn'd with water
and buildings, and In one part Is the kitchen garden. We ascended
the hill between several quarries, and going out of the road to the
right came to the summit of it, which is worked into a very strong
fortification by deep double ditches, and Is call'd Kingsborough. A
litle turret is built on the south side. This summit commands a
glorious view of (what besides I have mentioned already) the
country to the north and the hills to the east, especially of the
beautiful hill towards Glocester, call'd Robin-hood, and another to
the north, near the road to Cheltenham, which has the name of
Cloven Hill. I descended, and was told at the quarries that they
find oyster shells and something like hearts, and they gave me a
piece of a rib'd cockle. In about three miles from this hill we came
to Glocester, situated on the Severn ; here Is the bridge on this river.
Ships come up to the key, the tyde going but a very litle further ;

272 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
large barges go up the river, they are supplied by them with coal,
which are brought from about Kidderminster to Bewdley." It Is a
large town, consisting of two broad streets that cross, and of several
others ; there are an equal number of inns and good shops in it, and
several market places with open colonades cover'd with lead, and
they have erected statues to the honour of some Kings, particularly
King Charles 2d and one of Queen Anne. This city was call'd by
the Britains Caer-Glow (the fine city), and Glecum by the Romans.
Edol, a British nobleman, who came with King Vortigern to the
Congress here, was Earl of Glocester.
Edmund Ironside and Canute the Dane engag'd In single combat
for the kingdom in sight of their armies. William the Conqueror
gave this city and castle to Robert Fitz Harman, who was after
wards Lord of Glamorganshire. A large building remains of the
old castle and the keep, near which Mr. Hyatt has made a pretty
garden In the wilderness way, and has built a very small lodge, in
which he lives at present. The town was wall'd round, but the fort
were destroyed since in theclvil wars, when it held
out for the King. At the north-west part of this town is the large
enclosure of the Abbey, now called the College, being erected into
a BIshoprIck by Henry 8th, with a Dean and six prebendaries.
Bishop Hooper, who was burnt in the church yard of this cathedral,
was the first Bishop of it. The body of the cathedral, except the
upper windows and the isle, is the old Saxon building, except the
two western arches, which are new, the west end of the church
having fain down, and they say the church has been more than
once damag'd by fire. King OsrIc is said to be first founder of
it; his tomb is on the north side of the quire, in which Is his
couchant statue, with the model of the cathedral in his hand. The
Saxon pillars also remain on one side of this isle, and on each side of
the choir. The skreen, which is a gallery supported by a Gothic
colonade, the benefaction of the late Bishop Benson. The choir was
» Quere if Glocester be not serv'd with pitt coal from Broseley which lies above
Bridgenorth on the Severn f — Note in MS.

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 273
casd within, and the tower built by Abbot , whose tomb
is on one side of the quire. It is an exquisite, fine, light, Gothic
building, finished about 300 years ago. The fine tower Is singular,
in that it is built over the west end of the choir, and there is no
appearance in the choir, as I could observe, either of the tower or
of any support of it. It Is a fine building of It self, entirely adorn'd
with carv'd work, litle windows, and the battlements and four
pinacles are most beautiful open work, like that of the tower of
Strasburgh. The stalls of the cathedral are carv'd in oak, and are
light and beautiful ; to the east of them the sides are open, adorn'd
with several Gothic ornaments. The east window is grand and
beautiful beyond description, taking in the whole east end, and is
all painted glass ; under it is an opening, through which one sees the
east A\indow of St, Mary's Church, which has a wonderfull fine
effect. That chapel was built by Abbot ; it is all window,
in the style of King's College Chapel, in Cambridge, and is exceed
ing fine. In the north isle, besides King Osric and the last Abbot,
are the monuments of two very unfortunate persons. Robert, the
eldest son of the Conqueror, who was confined about twenty years
in the Castle of Cardiff, where he dyed ; his couchant statue Is of
oak painted. The other is of King Edward 2d, who was murder'd
at Berkley ; 'tis said, that out of the offerings to his shrine the
choir was built. I have been inform'd since I left the place the
famous Strongbow is'buryed In the chapter house. The Isle south
of the quire is very shamefully turn'd Into a library. In the south
part of the old transept a very magnificent monument is erected, by
Mr. Hanger, to the late Bishop. It is fineer'd within a frame with
fine Italian marble, I believe that which is call'd Jaspar of Barga.
The long inscription is in English, very high encomium, and over
it Is a medalion profile of his head, not In the least like him.
The cloyster Is esteem'd a very fine Gothic building.

CAMD. SOC. 2 N VOL. II.

274 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
Winchcomb, May 26th, 1757.
I left Glocester on the 25th and came 7 computed and 10
measured miles to Cheltenham. A litle below the surface of the
ground which is a clay is a bluelsh hard stone in small pieces,
which they call a clay stone, and say It will not make lime : it seems
to be very hard. Cheltenham is a small market town, famous of
late on account of the resort to it for the mineral waters, which
purge and are very good, especially where the habit Is too full.
There is a tolerable room built for the company to meet in, lodgings
near it, and a pleasant walk planted through a meadow and a way
to the well. There Is a fine wheel window in the church about ten
feet in diameter. Dr. Tomlinson has a very good collection of
pictures in his house, about twenty In number. We came near two
miles to Presbury, and came over that chain of hills which go by the
name of Cleve ; they are steep and pretty high, and are of a sort of
stone which appears to me to be a free stone, much of the same
kind as that over Palnswick ; descending I saw a fine piece of scollop
shell and a piece of a large ammonis horn. At the foot of the hill
we came to Portle where there Is a large house and a chapel, the
door of which is Saxon ; here rises a branch of the river Iston,
another rising near Charleton Abbey two miles south of Winchcomb,
and a little way beyond that the river Colne rises which falls into the
Thames, those two rivlets unite at Winchcomb and fall Into the Avon
at Evesham. On the first-mentioned rivlet very near the town is a
paper mill. Winchcomb is a pretty summer situation on the side of
the hill as In an amphitheatre, also encompassed with beautiful hills.
It is said to have been formerly a county granted by King Ethelred
to the Abbey of Glocester. It was a borough in the time of Edward
the Confessor. Here was an Abbey under a mitred abbot, part of
the enclosure remains, of large hewn stone with a basement, and a
small part of the Abbey, probably the dormitory, and a house has
been built on the spot out of the ruins of it. No part of the church
is remaining, but about the site of it they have found some stone
coffins. On the dissolution it was granted to S"^ Thomas Seymour,

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 275
and then to William Parr Marquis of Northampton, was forfeited,
and 'tis said the site of the abbey and I suppose the estate was
granted by Queen Mary first to John L* Chandols. It afterward
belonged to D'^ Lloyd, Chancellor of Worcester ; and lastly descended
to two co-heiresses, and is just now purchased by M' Pitt of Hamp
shire, being about £1000 a-year. Sudley Castle, half a mile from
the town. Is on this estate ; whether the same as was call'd formerly
Ivy Castle, I cannot say. But what remains of the house was
probably built by Lord Chandos, for it Is most of it In the style of
the time of Queen Elizabeth,^ and is a fine building. The re
main [in] g apartments are a single house on three sides of a court,
which ted to another, there being at present no building between
them, but remains of a grand entrance on one side; in the other
court on one side was a very grand hall, now in ruins, with a fine
bow-window, at one corner a tower with some apartments in it ;
and at the other a turret from which they say water was convey'd
to the house. All is of fine hewn stone, which they have here in
great plenty. To the east of the buildings Is the shell of a beautiful
chapel, of five windows on each side; and on the side of the chancel
are the three seats for the persons administring, with niches between
them as for statues. A singular tower is practiced at the west and
which projects a litle over the wall to the west, and to the east rests
on two pilasters projecting likewise about a foot beyond them. In
the front also are two niches for statues, of which statues there are
some remains, they are a white free stone. To the north of this
chapel is a building joyning to it, about ten feet wide and 30
long, probably built over the vault in which Lord Chandos is
buryed ; here service Is now perform'd once in a fortnight. The
parish church Is a very handsom Gothic building with a tower to
it, with an Isle on each side, all cover'd with lead, except the
chancel ; the rood loft remains in the church which they call an
organ loft. The Vicaridge is worth only £30 a year, but has
commonly two schools here of different foundations. This place is
" Chiefly built in King Edward 6th's time. See Sel. Itin.—Note in MS.

276 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OP
out of all roads, they have markets and it is a Corporation consist
ing of five bailiffs and smaill number of burgesses, a few of which
are only just kept up in order to collect the tolls, for they do not
send members to Parliament. They have a trade in spinning, and
weave cparse woollen cloths for their own use. I saw in the town a
large ancient Saxon capital, which probably belong to the abbey
church. In some of the quarries they raise such large stone as to
make cisterns of any size they please. Evesham, May 26th, 1757.
On the 26th I went 3 miles to Halls Abbey, to the north-east, at
the rise of a small stream which falls Into the Isbon. This abbey
is in L"* Tracey's family, and was one of their seats about sixty
years ago, but very litle now remains of the old buildings, except a
part in the front, with a handsom bow window call'd the Abbot's
Chamber, some fine arches, which they say was the cellar, one
entire side of the fine cloyster, and the outer wall is all round, several
large barns and a pidgeon house near 40 feet square with buttresses
at each corner, and a chapel now in service all of hewn stone. . From
this place we came by Didbrook and Stanway, Mr. Tracey's, an
exceeding good old house built of hewn-stone, and a very pleasant
place. A sort of Saxon cornice round the church is remarkable;
they have cut some Gothic figures on It. We came by Staunton
and Childeswickam to the great turnpike road from London to
Worcester just three miles from Evesham, In which we went to that
town, which is most pleasantly situated on an eminence over the
river Avon, navigable from Stratford to the Severn at Tewkesbury;
here is a bridge over the river, which winds so as to make the town
and some fields a peninsula. At the south-west part of the town
was the Abbey, of which there are very litle remains; the oldest
part is the ruins of a very old Saxon gateway to the north. To the
south-west are some litle remains of the cloyster, but they say the
Abbey church was to the north of two churches now standing and is
entirely destroy'd. These churches within 50 yards of each other

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 277
are two parish churches ; in that to the north is a very fine chapel,
at the entrance of which Abbot Litchfield was buryed, who built the
chapel, and over It are these letters LP the initial of the Christian
name escap'd me ; the two letters stand for Litchfield Prior, There
is a singular in this church. In the other is such another
chapel in the north side also, and the chancel, which is much narrower
than the breadth of the church, is an exquisite piece of Gothic work
manship on the outside, and was doubtless well adorn'd within.
There is a vault in the church in which they found nothing but a
large chest, and which is supposed to have contain'd some valuable
things of the church ; there Is a tower and small steeple as well as
to the other. To the east of this court is a very fine tower 30 yards
high built by Abbot Litchfield for a belfery; It is something in the
style of that of Glocester. I went to see Dr. Bailie's garden,
which is prettily laid out in wilderness, &c., with a hermitage. In
one part is the abbot's chair of oak, the covering of which is very
well executed, Sphynxes make the arms, a running foliage of vines
make the back, on one side of whl(!h a monk in a bending posture
holds a cross, on the other side another figure answers to it, and 'tis
a fine piece of antiquity, which was kept in an alehouse till the D"^
rescued it. He has also made a turret two stories high with stairs
round the outside of It, and the lower room is adorn'd with several
carvings in wood taken from the church. I walk'd near a measured
mile to Battle Wells in the northern road, famous for the battle in
which Prince Edward, afterward Edward 1st, beat Simon Mounfort
and the Barons, and restored liberty to his father. They say the
battle was in the road and In Upton lane, but possibly there might
then be no enclosures. They say also that there was such a
slaughter that the blood ran down to the Avon, and they frequently
dig up bones, ^nd they told me that they found in the road a vault
full .of bones, which formerly might be under some chapel. The
great support of this place is the navigation, a great manufacture of
yarn, stockins from 8d. to 2s. 6d. a pair ; flax prepar'd for spinning ;

278 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
and above all, gardens and orchards, which supply all the country
round for a great way, and they have all things very forward,
I went in the turnpike road to Worcester 6 miles to Pershore,
situated on a flat on the same river, 10 miles from Worcester and
106 from London. There was an Abbey here, said to be founded by
King Edgar; litle remains of the very ancient church except the
middle and north part of the transept, which is very ancient Saxon,
and they have built a Gothic tower on It, which has given way, and
is supported by a modern very curious buttress, as well as by one of
an older date; the semicircular pilasters remain to the west of it,
which are nearer the ancient Doric than any I have seen, and there
must have been an uncommon grandeur and simplicity in the body
of the church. That which was the quire part is not large and in the
Gothic style, with a passage over the arches in front like windows,
divided by slender pillars into three parts, and the same at the east
end, which consists of three sides, like three sides of an octagon;
there was an opening from it, I suppose, into a chapel, one of the
side windows of which remain of a singular kind with arches more
joynted than ever I saw; the cornice round the church on the
outside is of the Saxon kind, and altogether it must have been for
merly a magnificent edifice. Near I: is a small church of another
parish, which they call the Mother Church, but there is no marks of
antiquity In it but an old font, adorn'd with arches intersecting each
other. Banbuiy, May 28th, 1757.
On the 29th I left Evesham and came In the same road back 3
miles, and then further in It to Broadway, near 6 miles, and a litle
beyond it turn'd out of the London road to the left, and came three
miles to Combden, I had seen to the left, under the hill faceing,
Evesham Norton, the late S' Thomas Keyt's, purchas'd by the late
S'^ Dudley Reider ; It Is a pleasant place, and there are fine plantations
about it, but the inside was burn't. The first post from Evesham
is Morton Hennerske, twelve miles, the next is Chipping Norton, 8

DE, EICHAED POCOCKE, 279
miles, Woodstock more, and so to Oxford. I came to Camden to
see the ruins of Camden house, and the monuments in the church.
The church it self Is a fine Gothic building, with isles and a chapel
on each side, as a cross isle. The tower is lofty and beautiful. In
the south chapel are the monuments of the Camden family. First
of S' Baptist Hickes, Londoner, and his wife, whose fine couchant
statues are under a canopy supported by ten Dorick pillars of black
and yellow marble ; they are in robes. It was this gentleman who
built Hickes Hall, as I was told ; he dyed in 1629. Lady Juliana,
their only daughter and heir, married S"^ Edward Noel, who was
created Viscount Camden Baron Noel of RIdllngton and Hicks of
Hemington. He was made a knight bannaret In Ireland in 1611,
and died at Oxford In 1642. His lady died in 1664. The second
son Henry died a prisoner, I suppose, to the Parliament army. A
daughter, married to Lord , by whom, I suppose, the
estate has descended to Lord Gainsborough. Their monument, the
work of Marshal, consists of two statues of white marble, well
executed, standing as in their shirts, with a flowing garment tyed in
an open knott on the head and finely flowing as to represent the
shroud dress, but has a very good effect and is altogether a fine
piece of sculpture ; a leaf of black marble opens on each side, which
are two inscriptions. There are two or three other monuments, and
one of a daughter of the Earl of Denbigh, who was married to a
second son. Near the church are the ruins of Camden House, the
architecture of Inigo Jones, but with the old windows of King
James Ist's time. Near the church is a gate, with a porter's lodge
on each side ; going down to the town and entering a court are two
piles of offices with handsom offices, with handsom door cases ; then
we came to the terrace which was behind the house, at each end of
which there was a banqueting house built with three clos'd arches
and a basement and rooms above, the chimnles are as twisted fluted
pillars, with a stone in appearance laid on them, and a rose cut at
each corner. Here seems to have been a terrace round a grass
plat. The house fac'd to the church ; there is not one stone of it

280 THE TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OP
left. They have here a manufacture of spinning thread. I
went a mile farther to Ebrington, where the Lord Fortescue has a
seat. In the church is the monument of the famous Lord Chancellor
Fortescue of the reign of Henry 6th. His couchant statue is supported
at the feet by a lyon and an angel on each side of his head. There
are arms round the tomb, over It is an Inscription put up by his
descendant. In the inscription he Is call'd Legum Anglise Hyperos-
pistls fortlsslmi. Going on I saw Foxcot, Mr. Canon's, a Roman
Catholick; it Is a large house. I just saw Stow on the Would, on
the point .of a hill, which is but seven miles from Barford, and a hill
over Monto Henmarsh, in the way to London, a litle beyond which
is Northwich, S"^ John Rushout's. I saw also Stratford on Avon
to the north-west, and came to Shipton on the Stour In Worcester
shire, a small market town, said to have had its name from being a
sheep market. They knit stockins, mostly white, from 8d. to 6s. a
pair, and they weave hair or worsted shag, from 5s. to 15s. a yard ;
a coach goes through this place in a day from Birmingham, by
Euston to Oxford, 28 measur'd miles from this place, and in another
day to London. We came 9 computed, and 15 measur'd miles, to
Banbury. They have a manufacture here in combing wool and
weaving hair or worsted shag. On the 25th I went 3 miles in the
London road to Adderbury ; here Is A good church with a steeple,
and, what appear'd to me at a distance, a fine light Gothic cross
isle and chancel. Here the Duke of Argyle had a house, now Lady
Dalkeith's, with large offices, built of a larg^ sand stone, in some of
which are small holes with diamond shoots, as about Redway, but
it is a dark colour'd looking stone ; lower down S'' George Cobb has
a very good old house. Here I left the London road and went in
the Oxford way to Dodington, where there is a good Gothic church,
but no marks of great antiquity, as I expected, having some idea
that it was the see of an ancient bishoprick.

DR, RICHARD POCOCKE, 281
Warwick, May 30th, 1757.
On the 28 th I came from Banbury to Redway, When I was
last here I did not see the walks up the side of the hill through the
woods, I went also to see the Red Horse, which is not above
30 yards long. It is represented with the tayl held up ; 'tis not
so good a figure as the White Horse, 'Tis said the lands of Tysoe
are held on condition of cleaning this Horse, which is distinguished
by the red soil. About two miles from it is Compton, the Earl of
Northamton's ; near It also the road comes up the hill from Strat
ford to Banbury. I went a mile to Red Chlffe Church, where are
remains • of painted glass and a variety of Gothic windows. The
situation of Redway Hill is so chearful that Burton on Melancholy
mentions it with Beauvoir Castle as a place that inspires with
chearfulness. On the 30th I came 9 computed and 14 measur'd
miles to Warwick, seeing by the way Mr, Newton's,
whose mother Is married to Mr, Nugent of the Treasury. I
observed also this way a lime stone, much like what they call
the clay stone towards Glocester. Warwick is most delightfully
situated on an eminence on the Avon, over which there is a bridge.
It is 88 measured miles from London, The hill it stands on is a
fine free stone with a bluelsh cast. The best part of the town
consists of two cross streets. It is supposed to have been the Pre
sidium, where the prjefect of the Dalmatian horse was posted. 'Tis
said that the Plots and Scots destroy'd this place; that It was
rebuilt by Caractacus, who was general of the Sllures, but taken
by Osorius, Ethelfleda, a Lady of the Mercians, put it again into
a flourishing condition about 911. Dubriclus is said to have
founded a Bishoprick here in the. church of the saints before he
•founded Llandaff. Some say it had its name from Warremund,
an ancestor of the Mercian kings, who rebuilt It. Roger, the 2d
Earl of Warwick, buflt that part of the church called the quire,
which is a fine Gothic structure, whose monument is in the middle
of it. The Beauchamps became Earls of Warwick, who built a
chapel to the south of the quire, in which Is a fine old monument
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282 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
of the founder of it, with brass hoops over it. Here are also the
monuments of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, fifth son of the
Duke of and also of a younger son. The frame of
the east window is finely adorn'd with reliefs of Scripture history,
and the window Is painted glass. To the north of the chapel is a
confessionary, with a hole from it into the church, which I first
thought was to view the exposition of the host, but they said it was
for confession. Before the confession seat are three or four seats
for the penitents, one behind the other, from which they say they
went by a door Into the quire to confess. In the front of the quire
Is set up the brass plates gilt of the monument of
The town was burnt in 1694 ; the body of this church was con-
sum'd and rebuilt with a tower near 150 feet high. The church
and the tower are a mixture of Gothic and Roman archlt-^cture.
The cathedral is said to have been in the castle and removed to
St. Mary's Church, which was collegiate. In the new square of
the town was an Abbey destroy'd by Canute in 1016. There was
a Priory to the north of the town of Canons Regular of the holy
sepulchre, on the site of the parish church of St. Helen's ; 'twas
begun by Henry de Newburgh, Earl of Warwick, and finished by
his son. Hen. 1st. There were some hospitals likewise founded
by the Earl of Warwick. The castle is finely situated and a noble
building. Richard the 2d began a strong fortification here, pro
bably the keep at the corner of the castle, which is finely planted,
Roger de Belle Monte removed the college to St. Mary's. The
castle was made the county goal, and granted by King James 1st
to S'^ Fulk Greville, who made it very fine at a great expence, and
it now belongs to Earl Brook his descendant, who has greatly
beautifyed the park and the whole place by plantations. The castle.
is situated on the rock, which is not very high over the river. To
the right of the entrance is a tower, a fine old one of twelve sides.
The chief building is over the river, which consists of very hand
som apartments. One of the rooms is wainscoated with cedar,
and there are several pieces in the house of Vandike and Lilly,

DE, RICHARD POCOCKE. 283
Mary Queen of Scots, and Anne of Bullen, said to be Johnson's.
Ihere Is very beautiful tapestry in one room, the drawing of
which- are exceeding fine. They represent gardens, buildings, and
landscapes. 'Tis doubted whether they are needlework, I should
think they are, because I never saw such tapestry in any other place,
and when tapestry is wove they commonly make many setts of the
same sort or pattern. There are some beautiful marble tables in the
castle brought from Italy by the present Earl. His private apart
ments are very neat, and his study is adorn'd with drawings of the
capital statues in ' Rome and Florence, and also of several views of
buildings. In an out-office are some things preserv'd, which they
say belong'd to Guy Earl of Warwick, as his armor, all of immense
size, and his sword ; they pretend to say he was nine feet high, and
show the he used in turnaments, his Iron shield, the
helmet, and part of th<! coat of mall, and the head-piece of his horse,
and a pot of bell-mettle which holds 92 gallons. He Is drawn on
the walls as encountring another giant. All which seems to have
had some foundation in his being a man of great size, and possibly
on some extraordinary tryal of skill might wear this weighty armour ;
tho' others think the whole is fabulous. They also show the rib of
the Dun Cow, and one of the vertebre of the wild boar, which he
klU'd, which seem'd to be of the size of the largest ox. They told
me that to Henry the eight's time two pence a day was allow'd for
cleaning the sword, and another mentions that Henry 8th granted
2* a day to William Hoggeson for showing these acoutrements.
There was also some tapestry of the actions of Earl Guy, which
were left as heir looms. I have been inform'd since I left that place
that a mile from the castle on the Avon Is Giiy or Gib Cliff, where
there is a cave with trees and water rising about it ; to which place
they say Guy retir'd after all his conquests. On Blakelow hill
Peter de Gaviston, Earl of Cornwall, was beheaded by the Barons.
There Is a handsom town house of hewn stone. But the county
house Is an exceeding fine piece of architecture, of the design of
Smierson Miller, Esq''^ It is in the Corinthian order, with three

284 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
windows crown'd with circular pediments at each side of the entrance,
with pillars between them, there are stones left in the frieze for
carv'd ornaments : how this will succeed I cannot say, but I fear
they must be too heavy. They are also left within for the same
purpose. You enter an oblong square saloon, the whole length of
the building ; two pillars on each side of the two middle pilasters
open into two courts, which are made octagon, by six more detach'd
pillars, and this is done only by the addition of about half a square
at the back of each, in which the judge sits between the two pillars;
between these courts is a room for the grand jury. All these publick
buildings are of the Warwick stone already described. The support
of the town are the Inns and shops which supply the neighbouring
country. They say they have several vaults cut into the rocks for
cellars. Woolverhampton, May 31st, 1757.
Coventry is eight measur'd miles from Warwick. I went three
miles in that road, and then turning to the left came a mile further
to Kenelworth Castle, near a large village of that name. It was
built by Geoffry de Clinton, Lord Chamberlain to Henry 1st, who
afterwards founded a monastery for Canons Regular, of which I saw
some small ruins, as they told me it was toward the village which
appear'd like a gate way. The castle stood a siege six months, and
Edward 2d was made a prisoner here. It came to the Earl of
Leicester, who entertaln'd Queen Elizabeth here, and they say exhi
bited on some water a sea-fight. Before I came to it I saw a small
fortification made by a deep trench, probably the work of the enemy
when It was besieg'd ; the enclosure large, defended by semicircular
towers. The entrance seems to have been on the north side, where
there is a handsom pile of building of about four rooms on a floor,
which they call the Lodge, with a tower at each comer, which, if I
do not mistake, are octagons. There is a handsom door case to it,
and some good carved chimney pieces and wainscoat. This- probably
serv'd for the steward and upper servants. Coming on to the build-

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE, 285
ing of the castle, which is something in this form / /, to the right
is the strong building of the castle It self ; the walls are very thick,
I think 30 feet, built with openings of true arches, with a broad
foundation, every tier of stone setting in for about ten feet. It con
sists of a large room below, probably the magazine and another above.
This seems to be the building of the time of Henry 1st; close to
this was the entrance. To the left was a grand building, which was
the habitable part, and is a double house of about six rooms of a
floor, and three stories high, with the large windows of Queen
Elizabeth's time, adorn'd with fine mouldings and water tables and
most excellent masonry in hewn stone ; some of the fine chimney
pieces remain, but most of them are taken away. There is a square
tower at one corner, which served for the stair case ; from this there
seem'd to have been a Gothic building, chiefly as of communication
with a grand Gothic hall on the other side of the court opposite to
the entrance. This building I have described seems to have been
executed under the Earl of Leicester, for there is a date of 1 500
and odd. The grand hall was a fine room ; on one side is an open
apartment, which might serve for the side-board ; opposite to it is a
small room with a chimney to retire to ; there was a large chimney
on each side of the hall, and a grand portal of entrance, towards the
other end of the room, with a rich Gothic frame of a door, directly
opposite to the entrance ; between this building and the strong part
of the castle is a small space without buildings. The whole is one
of the most magnificent sumptuous structures in England, and I do
not recollect any that exceeds, except Ragland, the Duke of Beau
fort's, in Monmouthshire. From this place we went eight computed
miles and twelve measured to Sulllhill, a pretty small neat town;
there was a fine high spire to the church, which was blown down by
the high wind last winter, and broke down the roof of the church
every way, there being a cross isle over which the tower is built.
In five computed and eight measured miles we came to Birmingham,
a fine large town of manufacture, of all sorts of toys and implements
in the iron way, and some in brass, and they japan also and enamel

286 THE TEAVBLS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
In great perfection, and cheap. The town is built of brick, and there
are several good houses in the High Street, in New Street, and
round the fine square, in which the church stands, which is a grand
building of hewn stone, and there is a beautiful new built free-
school, of the foundation of Edward the 6'''. From Birmingham
I went computed and measured miles to Walsall, 113
measured miles from London, and 5 computed from Litchfield. It
is finely situated on a hill, the church being on the summit of it, In
which is an old monument of one of the Hilary's, a knight of
Edward IIF^ time. The face is almost entirely cover'd by the
armour, I was inform'd after I left it that there are iron mills
near, and of the iron ore call'd mentioned by Dr. Plot, which
I suppose by steeping it in water makes a cool agreeable liquor.
We went 5 miles to Woolverhampton, passing by a litle manufac
turing town, about half way, call'd Welllnghall.
Ellesmere in Shropshire, .June , 1757.
Woolverhampton Is a large town, pleasantly situated on a gentle
rising ground; it is a great manufacturing town in all sorts of toys,
and particularly of locks, in the greatest perfection. This place was
first call'd Hampton, and had the name of Vulfrunes Hampton, from
Vulfruna, King Edgar's sister, who built a monastery here. King
Edgar built founded a chapel here, with eight , the head of
whom had sole jurisdiction over them, Edward the 4th united the
deanery of this church to the deanery of Windsor, They have, as
I have [been] Inform'd, quire service on Sundays, but forgot to
enquire. It is a very good Gothic church, but no marks of great
antiquity in it. 'Tis commonly fill'd with between 3 and 4000
people. There is a fine stone pulpit. The following inscription is
in the church : — " In the year of our Lord 991, in the reign of King
Ethelred, Ulfrun, or Wulfrun, widow to Athelane, Duke of North
ampton, founded this church." In the quire Is a fine bronze statue
in armour, with an angel on each side all gilt, of Admiral Richard
Leveson, who married Margaret, daughter of Charles Howard, Earl

DE. RICHARD POCOCKE. 287
of Nottingham ; he commanded against Spain In 1588, was knighted
at the Siege of Cales in 1590, obtaln'd a victory at the Azores In
1597, and in 1598 he was made Admiral to defend the Channel,
He beat the Spaniard at Kingsale and Castle Haven in 1601. In
1602 he took their East India fleet. He was made High Admiral
by King James 1603, and sent Ambassador to make a peace with
Spain, and died in 1605. In the north transept Is an old altar
monument, with statues of the family of the Lanes, and near is
the monument of Col. John Lane, who assisted in the escape of
King Charles II. after the battle of Worcester; he dyed in 1667.
There is an elegant Inscription on it relating to the history, and a
fine relief of the Royal Oak and a Crown on it, and the back of an
horse on one side and of the forepart of a horse on the other, with
trophies in the middle, very well executed. From the church yard
I saw Tettenal, about two miles off in a valley to the west, where the
Danes were cut off in 9 1 1 , by Edward the Elder ; and on the hill
about a mile beyond is Wrottesher, where I find there is mention
made of an old town near four miles in circumference, of which I
could not get an account, and the weather did not favour in making
enquiry on the spot, A baronet of the name married the late Lord
Gore's daughter, lives there, and Is lately gone into orders. I went
five miles to the small town of Brewood. The windows of the
church are all narrow and more pointed than any I have seen.
Here are several fine old monuments of the Giffords. Two miles
more brought us to Boscobel, famous in history for being the place
where King Charles 2d lay hid after the battle of Worcester.
Richard Peverel, a wealthy farmer, who liv'd at Hubal, a mile to
the east of Tongal, the greatest hand In the transaction of this affair;
in the house they shov^, up in the garret, the trap door by which the
king went down and sat in an enclosed place, to which there was no
other entrance, being separated from a closet below by a plaister
partition, and the whole room was matted over so that the trap door
could not be seen. In a parlor below is the bed he lay in, to which
the wainscoat opens, and I suppose the landlord, Fitz Herbert, a

288 THE TRAVELS THROUGH ENGLAND OF
Roman Catholic, has hung up over it a print of a young person
with the ornament of a cross and this motto, " Misero succumbere
sseclo " ; opposite is another closet where the king used to sit. We
were then conducted to the site of the Oak. Close to it is an oak
about 70 or 80 years old, which they rose up from an acorn of the
tree ; up on a bough of that tree the king was hid, or in the hollow
of it the king was hid, when they were searching for him in the
house. The tree is enclosed with a wall, and over it is this inscrip
tion :
Feliciss. Arborem quam in Assylum Potentiss. Eegis Car. 2'" D. Op. Max. per
quem Reges regnant hie crescere voluit tam in perpet. rei tantse memoriam quam
in Specimen firma in Eegis fidei Muro cinctam posteris commendans Basilius et
lana Fitz Herbert. Quercus amica lovi.
Mrs. Jane Lane, who had so large share in this transaction,
liv'd at Bentley, near Walsal. From Boscobel I came in about half
a mile to White Lewies, where the old Saxon church is almost
entire : the door in the middle on the north side and one towards
the end are adorn'd with semicircular members round the arch,
which is singular ; there are two or three other doors ; the whole
building of the church seeming to be entire, and is an oblong square
about three times as long as it is broad. On the other side of
Boscobel we saw a large wooden house to the right, with a large
piece of water near it ; this is call'd Black Ladles. In about
two miles we came from Staffordshire into Shropshire, near Tong,
where we lay. Wrexham, June, 1757.
Tong is a small village, but is remarkable for its church and for
the monuments in it. This place having belong'd to the family of
Morcar, earls of Northumberland, in the Saxon times, it was given
from them by the Conqueror, came to the Zouches of Ashby, then
to the Badlesmeres, and by the female line to the Veres, earls of
Oxford, and as they told me here, to S' Fulke Pembroke, from him

DR. RICHARD POCOCKE. 289
by the female to the Vernons, then to the Stoners and Harvy, to
Lord Pierpont, and, by the marriage of his daughter, to the Duke
of Kingston. In the north isle of the church is the monument of
S'' Folk Pembroke and his lady, with their couchant statues, as are
all the others, except one ; he has on the chain armour, and his head
rests on the helmet, the crest of which is the head of a woman with
her hair plaited behind, after the Eastern manner, and a Turkish
head dress, of which they tell this story : — That when he was In the
East he fought in single combat for the Grand Signior's daughter,
and overcame ; that she was offer'd to him, but that he could not
accept her, as he was marryed ; and therefore she desir'd she might
lye with him on his tomb. Under the pulpit is the tomb of S"^
Richard Vernon and his lady, who they say married S'^ Folke's
daughter ; round the tomb are arms and saints in alternate com
partments, adorn'd with beautiful Gothic ornaments, as are all the
other tombs. Opposite to the pulpit is the tomb of S'^ William
Vernon, of 1419. The figures of him and his lady are In brass
plates, and of twelve children at nine births, there having been three
births of twins. In the south isle is the monument of S"^ George
Vernon and lady, and the arms born by angels and compartments
are alternate ; beyond this an arch is turned, finely adorn'd, and
three Gothic niches over it. Under this arch Is the tomb of Sir
Henry, of 1515 ; within it, at one end of the chapel. Is a memorial
of S'^ Arthur Vernon, priest, and on a brass plate on the floor he
is called Master of Arts of Cambridge ; and at the other end he Is
represented in a pulpit with a short inscription; he died in 1517.
And S'^ George is mentioned as the founder of the chapel. S^
Henry Vernon is mention'd .as the donor of the great bell In 1518,
who seems to have been the last of the family ; for in the chancel
is a very magnificent monument of S"^ Thomas Stanley, second son
of the Earl of Derby, who marryed the co-heiress of S' George
Vernon, who had two sons, Edward surviv'd, whose couchant
statue is under those of his father and mother. They are on a
marble slab, supported by sixteen pillars ; the outer row are round,
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290 THE TRAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
and within them are square pillars finely adorn'd with sculpture.
In this chancel Is a small monument, against the wall, of one of the
Harris's, who had this estate, and probably married a daughter of
the Stanleys, as L^ Pierpoint might ally with one of the Harris's.
The great bell is very fine, and weighs two ton and a half ; they
only toll it. There are stalls in the quire, handsomely carv'd. To
the south of the church are some remains of what they call the
college, which was for priests, if I mistake not, to serve the church ;
it was built round a court, founded, as they say, by the lady of
S"^^ Folke Pembroke, when she thought he was made a slave by the
Turks. There Is an almshouse near the church. I went to the
castle, which Is a building of no great antiquity, most of it having
been built within these two hundred years. There are apartments
in it, with door cases of Derbyshire marble set up by L^ Pierpoint,
who inhabited the house, and has been dead about forty years. We
went from Tong, and passed by Lydeat forges for making bars of
iron, the ore being found and smelted at Dauly, and in about two
miles came Into the high road from London to Shrewsbury. We
saw to the right Weston Hall. ' L* Bradford's, and in seven miles
from Tong came to Penslarn, where the collieries begin. It is a
large coal, burns swift, and is very cheap, and from this colliery
they are supplyed very much down the Severn. We soon came to
Watling Street Collieries, being on each side of the road. This
place has its name from the old Watling Street, which is the Roman
way from Dover to Cardigan ; goes by St. Alban's, Dunstable,
Towcester, Atherton, enters Shropshire at ; goes by
Wroxeter, Aston, Bornel, the Strettons, and to Lanterelen in Here
fordshire ; it is commonly call'd the , and in different
parts goes by the name of High Dike, High Ridge, Forty Foot
Way, and Ridge Way ; this name continues near to Wellington,
where our turnpike goes to Shrewsbury, and the other towards
Wem, in which road we went, and immediately came to the end of
the poor town of Welhngton, on the foot of the Wrekin, which on
this side appears a very beautiful hill, with shrubs, and somethino-

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 291
like Sidon Hill in Hampshire, but it is steeper and the ground more
uneven ; on the south side it appears more rough and steep, as I
remember. I went to see the church, in which there is one re
markable Saxon window, of which I have given a drawing.
There is also an old monument of the Charletons, with two
couchant statues on it, and it is adorn'd with arms supported by
angels and compartments of saints alternately. From Wellington
we [came] in three miles to Arthur's Court, a fine old mansion
house, which did belong to S' , and Is now the estate
of L'' ; there are some additions to the old house of very
good architecture, with fine door cases, windows and entablatures,
and the date of 1514, and that it was built by
We came to the river Rodon, and near it, in 4 miles from
Arthur's Court, to a most noble house, never finesh'd, called
Moreton Corbett, adjoyning to a strong built old castle, of which
there now remains very litle ; it anciently belong'd to a family of
the name of Turet. Robert Corbet began this magnificent building
in the time, if I mistake not, of King James the First ; the windows
are adorn'd with the different orders, something in the style of
Somerset House, tho' much grander ; but he dyed before it was
finished. The church is near the house. In which are monuments
of the family of S"^ Robert of 1514, S' Richard of 1688, and S"^
Vincent of 1680. Two or three miles more brought us to Wem, a
very poor town, 121 computed and 148 measur'd miles from Lon
don. It was a barony in the families of the Butlers,
Ferrers, and Dacres, and of King James 2d his Jefferles, and is now
in his son. Wicherley, the poet, was born here. There Is a remark
able statue in a nich in the tower of the church, and another, if I
mistake not, at the west end, and to the west of the church (there
was a garrison here for the Parliament, of which Mr. Baxter was
chaplain) are some signs of fossees and ramparts of an old castle.
On the 2d of June we came 10 measur'd [and] 6 computed
miles to Ellesmere, very pleasantly situated between two lakes
abounding In fish, from which it takes his name, the church being

292 THE TBAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF
on the side of a hill just over the fine eminence, which was the site
of an old castle. It was settled on Llewellin, Prince of North Wales,
by King John, on his marriage with his natural daughter Joan.
It was in the Estampes, and now gives the title of Baron to the
Duke of Bridgwater's family.
I came ten computed and fifteen measur'd miles to Wrexham,
passing by Oreton, famous for a church yard encompass'd with fine
yew trees, and passing over the Dee into Derbyshire, not far from
Bangor, the site of the famous Abby I have formerly gave an account
of, and came to Wrexham. Llanrust [June,] 1757.
Wrexham is pleasantly situated on a small stream that falls into
tue Dee. There is a good town house and market place, but it is
most famous for the church and tower, which is indeed very fine ; a
prospect of it, and some account of this building, is here inserted.
Near Wrexham, at a place call'd Stort on the Dee, Cambden sup
poses was Leonis Castrum, so call'd from Leglo Vicesslma Victrix.
It belong'd to S"^ Wm. Stanley, who was beheaded by Henry 7th on
his reproaching him for not being sufficiently rewarded for his good
services. We went on the third over the hills which are between the
Dee and Cluyd, on which there are lead mines, apd had a view of the
fine vale of Cluyd, and came ten computed and fifteen measur'd miles
to Ruthen, a pleasant situation on a rising ground near the Cluyd.
There are great remains of a large castle, which seem to have been
very strong. The church Is rebuilt close to the ruins of an old
monastery, and there is a free school adjoyning to it, founded, if I
mistake not, by D'' Goodman, Dean of St. Paul's, In 1598. We
came along the 'edge of the vale, 5 long miles to Denbigh, now
situated on the side of a hill, but formerly on the top within old
walls which now remain. There are ruins of a large church in it,
and of a castle, with a very grand gate way, over which there is a
remarkable statue much decay'd. The stones of this hill abound in
petrifyed cockles. I went on over the hills eight miles to a small

DE. EICHAED POCOCKE. 293
village call'd Bottles, and on the 4th as many more to Llanrust, six
miles above Conway, and on the river of that name. This place
and a neighbouring seat belong to the Duke of Ancaster, and came
to him, as I apprehend, by marrying an heiress of the Wynne
family baronets, who are buryed in the church, where there are
several monuments over them. In one they are mentioned as
descended from Owen Guynean, Prince of Wales, who marryed
Emma Plantagenet, sister to Henry 2d. Leolln, the last Prince of
Wales of this house, is also mentioned, who liv'd in the time of
Edward the First, and over an old coffin of stone, if I mistake not,
is this inscription: " This is the coffin of Leollne Magnus, Prince of
Wales, who was buryed in the Abbey of Conway, and, upon the
dissolution, removed thence." The seat is most beautifully plac'd on
the side opposite to the town on a flat, a quarter of a mile up the
hill, and commands a most beautiful prospect of the fine narrow
vale down to Conway and up the river, the hills being very beau
tifully adorn'd with trees and fine fields. The small house is em
belllsh'd in several parts. Near the house is a very handsome
chapel. They show'd us also below Llanrust the remains of an old
monastery; and, three miles above Conway, they told me was the
Abbey of Caerlyn (the old city), where the old town Cono
of Antonine is supposed to have been. Out of this town Edward
1st built Aberconway, very pleasantly situated at the mouth of the
river. The land call'd Orrus Head I take to be Gogarth, mentioned
by Cambden, where, he sales, stood the ancient city of Diganwy,
which was consumed. by lightening; he supposes it was the city
Dictum. According to the editor of Cambden, there were [found?]
fifty brass instruments, such, I take, as have the name of celts given
to them, with stems to have been fixt to a handle, but what Is more
extraordinary, brass cases are found to fit them. This river is
famous for a black muscle, in which they find large well-colour'd
pearls ; and so also, if I mistake not, in the River Aberavon, which
falls into the sea to the east of Bangor.

294 TEAVELS THEOUGH ENGLAND OF DE. POCOCKE.
Holyhead, [June,] 1757.
I went about three miles down by the Conway, and cross'd over
the mountain to this river, and went over the strand to Beaumorris
ferry, which we cross'd, to the town pleasantly situated on the sea
and side of the hills. Its ancient name is said to be Banover. The
town was rebuilt by Edward I., who call'd It Beau-marlsh, its said
from its situation, the ground near the sea, I suppose, having been
marshy. He built also the large castle, which remains very entire.
In the church is a fine old monument of white marble, with couchant
statues on it and arms round, said to be remov'd from a monastery
near. Here also are inscriptions to S"^ Henry Sydney and S"^ Anthony
S* Leger, M"" Thwaltes and another person, who were shipwreck'd
near in their return from Ireland in 1560, the two former having
successively been in the Government of that Kingdom. I walk'd
about a mile to the Priory, if I mistake not call'd Penan Preston,
where there are remains of the church and some other buildings, and
on the Head to the north I was shown the site of a famous Monas
tery, I think of Lanover of Minorites, where several personages were
buryed, who dyed in the wars between England and Wales, to one
of whom the monument in the church at Beaumorris might pro
bably belong. Lord Bulkeley's situation over the town is very
delightfuU. On the fifth we went on towards Holyhead, and hence
out of this way to the left to the church of where I saw a
fine monument of the same kind as that at Beaumorris, which they
say is that of Owen Tudor. The couchant statue is in chain armour,
with long spurs, and there are some particular ornaments on the
garments both of the man and woman. I came to Holyhead and
embark'd immediately for Dublin, where we arriv'd the next
morning.

INDEX.

Abberley, ii, 229
Abbot, Archbishop, ii, 165
 Sir Maurice, ib.
Abbotsbury, i, 92, 94
Abbotstone, Hants, ii, 1 19
Aberaeron, ii, 182
Aberdovey, ii, 180
Abei-ffra-w, i, 238; ii, 174
Aberford, i, 55, 62
Abergavenny, ii, 28, 29, 216
Abergavenny, Lord, ii, 77
Aberglaslyn, i, 237
Aberg-wili, ii, 187, 193
Abermarles, ii, 184'
Aberyst-with, ii, 181
Abingdon, ii, 255
Abingdon, Lady, ii, 148
Adderbury, ii, 280
Addingham, i, 49
Adlington, i, 212
Adstock, i, 165
Aire, the river, i, 49, 52, 62
Aislabie, Mr., i, 179; of Waverley, ii,
163
Albury, Surrey, ii, 169
Alcester, ii, 237
Aldborough, Yorkshire, i, 55, 59-60
Aldbourn, ii, 50, 248
Alderbury, ii, 244
Aldermaston, ii, 264
Aleward, Thomas, ii, 113
Alford, Somerset, i, 150
Abfriston, ii, 102
Allen, Mr., of Bath, ii, 36, 151, 152
AUerton Mauleverer, i, 175
Allonby, i, 9, 19
Almondbury, i, 51
Alresford, ii, 118, 119
Alstonfield, i, 215
Alton, Hants, ii, 159
 ToTvers, i, 217
Altrincham, i, 210
Ambleside, i, 39-41
Ambrey camp, ii, 220
Amersham, i, 160
Amesbury, i, 83; ii, 57
Ancaster, Duke of, ii, 293

Ancantree moor, i, 36
AnclifE, near Wigan, i, 207
Andover, ii, 48, 56; camp near, ii, 124
Anglesey, isle of, i, 238
Annandale, i, 23
Anson, Lord, at Soberton, ii, 118
Appleby, i, 31, 48, 190
 castle, i, 194
Appledore, ii, 97
Appletrewick, i, 193
Apps Court, ii, 261
Apreece, Mr., of Mamhead, i, 103
Archer, Lady, at Welford, ii, 248
Argyle, Dukes of, i, 63, 65; ii, 259, 280
Arley, ii, 236
ArnclifEe, i, 192
Arnside Tower, ii, 4
Arran, Lord, at Bagshot, ii, 169
Arthington hall, i, 54
Arthur, King, his Round Table, i, 31;
ii, 122
Arthuret, i, 19
Arundel, ii, 107, 108
Arundel, Earls of, i, 71; ii, 107, 108
Arundel of Wardour, nx)rd, i, 126, 175
Ashboum, i, 215, 216
Ashburnham, ii, 101
Ashburnham, Sir William, ii, lOI
Ashburton, i, 135
Ashdown forest, ii, 76, 77
Ashford, ii, 81
Askrigg, i, 185
Aston, Darcy family of, i, 70
Aston, Sir Willoughby, ii, 255
Atford, Wilts, ii, 154
Athelney isle, i, 144
Atherton, Mr., of New Hall, ii, 8
-Athol, Duke of, ii, 258
Atkins, Mr., of Kingstone, ii, 265
 Richard, ii, 59
Atkinson, Mr., a minister, i, 29
Atkyns, Sir Robert, his QloucestersMre,
i, 159
Audley Green, i, 8
Avalon island, i. 150
Avebury, ii, 52
Avon, the river, i, 83, 84, 156, 158, 159

296

INDEX.

Axholme, isle of, i, 183
Axminster, i, 98
Aylesbury, i, 161-164; ii, 241
 ducks, i, 164
Aylesford, ii. 79
Aylesford, Lord, ii, 169
Aysgarth, i, 187
Bacup, i, 205
Badbury Camp, i, 86
Badminton, ii, 31, 32, 33
Bagnor, Berks, ii, 248
Bagshot, ii, 60, 169 ¦
Bailie, Dr , of Lichfield, ii, 277
Bala, i, 234, 235; ii, 177
Baldwin the Giant, i, 6
Ball, Mr., of Mamhead, i, 103
Ballasula, Isle of Man, i, 3
Bampton, i, 99
Banbury, ii, 240, 280
Bangor, Flintshire, ii, 12, 13
 Carnarvon, ii, 174
 ferry, i, 238
Bankes, Mr. of Kingston, i, 86
Banks, Sir James, ii, 143
Banstead downs, ii, 165
Barbury castle, ii, 52
Bardeu Tower, i, 194
Bardsey island, i, 237; ii, 175-177
Barford, Wilts., ii, 131
Barham down, ii, 94
Barifield (?), i, 78, 79
Barker family, ii, 252
Barkway, i, 78
Barley, Herts., i, 78
Barmouth, ii, 178
Barnby moor, i, 170
Barnsley, i, 55, 63
Barnstaple, i, 138, 139
Barrington, Lord, ii, 224, 249
Barton school, i, 32
Barwick in Elmete, i, 55, 61, 62
Basebrown water, i, 41
Basing, ii, 159, 160
Basingstoke, ii, 157, 158
Bassenthwaite Lake, i, 37
Basset, Mr. of Trechiedy, i, 116
Bateman, Mr., of Old Windsor, ii, 64
 Lord, ii, 219, 220
Bath, 1,153-158; ii. 32
Bath Easton, ii, 33
Bathampton, i, 156 ; ii, 153
Bathford, i, 156; ii, 154
Bathurst, Mr., ii, 244

Bathwick. ii, 153
Battersea, ii, 172
 York House, ii, 69
Battle, ii, 99, 100
Battlesbury, ii, 38
Bawtry, i, 168
Baydon, ii, 50
Bayley, Mr., of Selsey, i, 220
Beachey Head, ii, 102
Beaconsfleld, ii, 241
Beal family, ii, 78
Beauclerc, Lord George, ii, 60
Beaufort, Dukes of, ii, 30-32; 211, 215
Beaulieu, i, 82; ii, 128, 129
Beaumaris, ii, 174, 294
Becket, Archbishop, his murder, i, 28
Beckett park, ii, 249
Beckford, Mr., of Fonthill, ii, 47
Beckhampton, ii, 156
Beckwith family, i, 179
Bedale, i, 178
Beddington, ii, 170
Bedford, Duke of, i, 132
Bedgellert, i, 237
Bed-win, Great, ii, 156
Beebridge, i, 35
Beeding, ii, 106
Beeston castle, i, 5
Beetham, ii, 2
Belvoir castle, i, 69, 75, 76, 169
Bennet family, of Weston, ii, 37
Benson, auditor, member for Shaftes
bury, ii, 45
Bentham school, i, 45
Bere, Dorset, i, 91
Bere Regis, ii, 142
Berkeley family, of Stratton, ii, 150, 151
Berkeley, Earls of, ii, 34
Berkshire, Earl of, ii, 2
Bernis, i, 23
Best, Mr., of Lenham, ii, 80
Betley, i, 6
Betshanger, ii, 91
Bettesthorne, John, ii, 44
Beverstone castle, ii, 269
Bewdley, ii, 230, 272
Bexhill, ii, 101
Bexiugton, i, 95
Biddulph, Mr., of Biddulph, i, 213
Bideford, i, 137, 138
Bindon abbey, i, 91
Binegar, i, 148
Bingham, Mr., rector of Headbourn
Worthy, ii, 119

INDEX.

297

Bingley, Lord, i, 61
Birch, Colonel, ii, 224
Birmingham, i, 222 ; ii, 285, 286
Bishop's Hull, or Hilbishop, i, 142
Bishopstone, ii, 103, 136
Bishop's Waltham, ii, 117
Bisley, ii, 271
Bittern, Hants., ii, 126
Black Barton, ii, 2
Blackburn, i, 11
Blackheath, ii, 67, 69
Blackpool, ii, 6
Blaekstone Edge, i, 193
Blakeraoor valley, ii, 148
Bland, Sir John, i, 62
Blandford, i, 83 ; ii, 140, 141
Blayney, Lord, ii, 81
Blondel, Mr., of Ijiverpool, i, 4
Blundell, Peter, i, 141
Blyth, Notts., i, 168, 170
Bockley, ii, 99
Boconnock park, i, 129
Bodmin, i, 127
Bodmin, see at, i, 108
Bodvil, Mr., of Madrin, ii, 176
Boham, Rev. Mr., ii, 157
Bollngbroke, Lord, his seat, ii, 266 '
BoUamsall, i, 169
Bolton, i, 1 1
 abbey, i, 49, 191
 bridge, i, 195
 castle, i, 187, 194
.  church, i, 30
 ¦ Duchess of, ii, 195
.  Dukes of, ii, 68, 119, 159, 160, 187
 hall, i, 186, 187
 le Moors, i, 205 ; ii, 8
 le Sands, ii, 5
 on the Ribble, i, 199
 on the Wharfe, i, 48
Bond, Mr., his seat near Wareham, i, 91
Boot or Bouth, i, 1 5
Booth, Sir George, i, 210
Boothby,Mr., of Ashbourn, i, 216; family
of, i, 217
Bootle, Sir Thomas, i, 207
Borlace, Mr., i, 113, 119
Bormhill Grange, i, 37
Boroughbridge, i, 58, 59, 175 ; obelisks
at, i, 55, 59
Borrowdale, i, 37
Boscawen, i, 118
Boscobel, ii, 287, 288
Bosham, ii, 113
CAMD. SOC. ' 2

Boswell, Mrs., ii, 72
Botley common, Hants, ii, 127
Bottesford church, i, 75
Bovey Tracey, i, 131
Bow, Devon, i, 139
Bowden hill, Wilts, ii, 154
Bowdon, i, 210
Bowness, i, 10, 19
Bowridge, ii, 136, 137
Box, ii, 33
Boxford, ii, 248
Boxhill, ii, 75, 168
Boxley, ii, 78
 abbey, ii.
Boyle, Robert, i, 49
Bradburne, Sir Humphrey, i, 217
Bradeel family, ii, 1
 Mr., of Portfield, i, 202
Bradford, Wilts., ii, 36, 37, 152
Bradford, Lord, ii, 290
Bradley, i, 51
Bradninch, i, 99
Bradshaigh family, i, 206, 207; ii, 8
Bradshaw, Sir Roger, ii, 8
Braidforth the giant, i, 31
Bramber castle, ii, 106
Bramham, i, 55, 61
 moor, i, 170
Brampton Bryan, ii, 221
Bramston, Mr., ii, 158
Brander, Mr., i, 82
Brandon camp, ii, 221
Branksea island, i, 87
Brasted, ii, 74
Bratton castle, ii, 38
Braytou, i, 173
Braywick, ii, 257
Breamore, ii, 130
Brecknock, ii, 24-27, 187, 193
Brede, ii, 99
Brentford, i, 160
Brentor, i, 136, 137
Brereton family, ii, 10, 11
Brereton, Sir Thomas, of Honeford, i,
• 210
Brewood, ii, 287
Bridges, Mr., of Keynsham, ii, 161
Bridgman, Sir Orlando, i, 205
Bridgnorth, i, 231
Bridgwater, i, 144
Bridgwater, Duke of, ii, 292
Bridport, i, 95, 96
Brighton, Brighthelmston, ii, 98, 102,
104

Q

VOL. II.

298

INDEX,

Brightwaltham, ii, 264
Brimpton, ii, 264
Brinkworth, ii, 267
Brinsden, Mr., ii, 266
Brislington common, i, 159
Bristol, ii, 34, 158, 159
Britton ferry, ii, 200
Brixham, i, 103, 105
Brixworth, i, 167
Broad Hinton, ii, 54
Broadlands, Hants., ii, 125
Broadway, ii, 278
Brocas family, ii, 59
Brock, Mr., of Poole, i, 87
Broghill, Lord, ii, 40
Bromley, Kent, ii, 70
Bromley, Mr., of Abberley, ii, 229
Bromwich, i, 222
Bromyard, ii, 228
Brook, Mr., of Mere, ii, 9
Broomham park, ii, lOl
Brotherton, i, 63
 'Thomas of, il>.
 Mr., of Pnsey, ii, 255
Brougham castle, i, 31, 32, 48, 194
 church, i, .33
 family, i, 26
Broughton, near Skipton, i, 195
Brownwilly, i, 130 ,
Bruce, Lord, ii, 156, 247
Bruton, ii, 150
Bruton monastery, i, 150
Bryanston, ii, 141
Bubb, Mr., ii, 138
Buccleuch, Duke of, i, 22
Buckhurst, ii, 76
Buckingham, ii, 240, 241
Buckland, Berks., ii, 255
Budby, Notts, i, 73
Bugden, i, 69, 77
Buildwas bridge and abbey, i, 231
Builth, ii, 23
Bulkeley, Lord, ii, 294
 Lady, at Heston, ii, 259
Bulstrode park, ii, 259
Bulverhythe, ii, 101
Bunney, i, 168
Buntingford, i, 78
Burbage, ii, 247
Burdett family, ii, 157
Burghley, Lord, i, 76
Burley on the hill, i, 76
Burling Gap, ii, 102
Burlington, Eai-1 of, i, 48, 81, 192, 194

Burnley, i, 203, 204
Burnsall, i, 193
Burnswork hill, i, 21, 23
Burslem, i, 8
Burton, Dorset, i, 95, 96
Burton on Trent, i, 219, 220
Bury, Lancashire, i, 11, 205
Bury, Mr., of Manchester, i, II
Bustards, ii, 38, 39
Butler, Colonel, of Chester, i, 5
Buttermere, Wilts., ii, 157
Bwlch, ii, 27
Byzantium, i, 12
Cader Idris, ii, 21, 177, 179, 236
Caerdrawyn, i, 234
Caerleon, ii, 2D9
Caei-philly, ii, 207, 208
Caersws, ii, 19
Caerwent, ii, 212
Caldbeck, i, 35, 36
Caldecot castle, ii, 212
Calder, the river, i, 50, 51, 62, 203, 204
Caldy island, ii, 191
Callington, i, 131
Calne, ii, 154
Calshot castle, ii, 129
Calstook, i, 131
Calton, i, 213
Calvert, Sir William, ii. 69
Cambridge, i, 78
Cambridge, Mr., of Whitminster, ii, 30
Camel, the river, i, 126, 127
Camelford, i, 126
Camhill, i, 191
Campbell, Colonel, i, 63
 General, of Combe Bank, ii, 74
Campden, "Viscounts, ii, 279
Canford, Little, i, 84
Canon, Mr., of Foxcot, ii, 280
Canterbury, ii, 83-86
Carbery, Lord, at Wolston, ii, 128 •
Carburton iron works, i, 73
Cardiff, ii, 206, 207
Cardigan, ii, 182
Carew family, ii, 170
Carew, Sir John, i, 141
Carleton, Lord, ii, 58
Carlisle, i, 19
 Bishop of, i, 26
 Earlof, i, 27
 plague at, i, 33
Carlton, Lamberts of i, 48
Carmarthen, ii, 187, 192, 19,3

INDEX.

299

Carnarvon, i, 238; ii, 174, 179
Carne Madrin, ii, 176 , '
Carpenter, Lord, ii, 262
Carteret, Mr., of Jersey, i, 122
Cartlone, i, 14
Cartmell, i, 14; ii, 3
Cary, Mr., of Ibbesley, ii, 130
Casterton, Brig, i, 76
Castlecombe, ii, 33
Castleford, i, 55, 62, 174
Castlehaven, Lord, ii, 47
Castle Horneck, i, 118
Castle Shields, or old Penrith, i, 34
Castletown, Isle of Man, i, 1-3
Caterham, ii, 170
Cattshill, ii, 164
Catwater Bay, i, 107
Caude, the river, i, 26, 35
Cavendish family, 1, 218
Cawood, i, 174
Cecil, Sir Thomas, ii, 171
Cerne Abbas, ii, 143
Cerne, the river, ii, 148
ChaflSn, Mr., of Chettle, ii, 138
Chagford, i, 135, 139
Chalcedon, i, 12
Chalfont, St. Peter's, i, 160
 St. Giles, it.
Chandos, Lord, ii, 275
Chapel le Dale, i, 196, 197
Charborough, i, 89, 90
Charleton family, ii, 291
Chariey Hills, i, 168
Charlford, ii, 127, 130
Charlton, ii, 68
 Hants., ii, 114
 house, Wilts., ii, 269
Charminster, ii, 144
Charmouth, i, 96
Chart, Little, ii, 81
Charterhouse Hinton, ii. 153
Cbarteris, Colonel, i, 44
 Wemyss, ii.
Chartham, ii, 83

Chasewater, i, 110
Cheadle, Staffordshire, i, 9, 210, 218
Cheam, ii, 262
Checkley, i, 218
Cheddar cheese, i, 146, 153
Cheese-svring, or Ring-Cheese, i, 129,
130
Chelsea, Moravians at, ii, 69
Cheltenham, ii, 274

Chenevix, Mrs., i, 51
Chepstow, ii, 213, 214
Cherbury, ii, 18
Cheriton, i, 137; ii, 118
Chertsey, ii, 66, 182, 183, 260
Cheselbourne, ii, 143
Chesil, Dorset, i, 92
Chester, i, 5
Chesterfield, Earl of, i, 162 ; ii, 67
Chetham, Humphrey, i, 205
Chetham's Hospital, i, 10
Chettle, Wilts., ii, 138
Chichester, ii, 109-111
Chichester family, ii, 149
Chideock, i, 96
Chieveley, ii, 264
Child, Mr., of Waverley, ii, 163
Childrey, i, 137
Childswickham, ii, 276
Chilham, ii, 83
Chilmark stone, ii, 131
Chiltern hills, i, 160
Chilton Candover, ii, 119
Chllworth powder mills, ii, 169
Chinham, ii, 59
Chipping Campden, ii, 278, 279
Chipping Sodbury, i, 158
Chirk castle, ii, 14
Chislehurst, ii, 69
Cholmondeley, ii, 10
 family, ii, 10, 11
Cholmondley, Mr., i, 9
Chorley, ii. 6
Chrlstchurch, Hants., i, 83, 137
Church, Mr., i, 78
Church Oakley, ii, 158
Churchill, Mr., of Henbury, i, 90
Chute hill, ii, 49
Cibber, the sculptor, ii, 122
Cinque Ports, ii, 102
Cisbury camp, ii, 106
Cisbury castle, ii, 157
Claiden, Mr., of Atford, ii, 154
Clandon, Surrey, ii, 165
Clanricarde, Earl of, ii, 118
Clapham, Yorkshire, i, 45, 199
Clarendon park, ii, 131, 244
Clark, Baron, tract by, i, 20, 21
Clark, Dr. Alured, ii, 123
Claverton, ii, 36
Claverton do-wn, ii, 163
Clay potteries, i, 6-8
Clav, pipe, i, 87
Cleiit hills, ii, 235

300

INDEX.

Cleveland, Duchess of, ii, 262
Cleves, Mr., ii, 69
Cliburn, i, 30
Clifford moor, i, 175
Clifford, Anne, Countess of Cumberland,
i, 33, 48, 194
Clifton, Cumberland, i, 30, 31
Clifton on Teme, ii, 229
Clist St. Mary's, i, 102
Clitheroe, i, 11, 200
Clopton family, ii, 238
Clumber park, i, 74
Clynnog fawr, ii, 175
Coal pits, i, 16, 17, 158, 159, 206
Cobham, Surrey, ii, 166, 262
Cobham, Lord, ii, 139, 240, 241
 Lady, ii, 61
Cockerham, ii, 6
Cockermouth, i, 36, 37
Cockersand abbey, ii, 5
Cockley chapel, i, 205
Cockyn, Sir Thomas, i, 217
Colchester, i, 78
Cole, Mr , of Downton, ii, 130
Colebrook, Mr., of Chilham, ii, 83
Coleford, ii, 30
Coleorton, i, 167
Colepeper, Mr., ii, 82
Colerne, ii, 33
Coleshill, Berks., ii, 249, 250
Coleshill on the Tame, i, 220
Coleshill, Sir John, i, 108_
Collier, Mr., of Hastings, ii, 101
Collingbourn, ii, 48, 246, 247
Colling\s'Ood, Mr., i, 45
Colliton, Sir John, i, 102
Collumpton, i, 99, 141
Colnbrook, ii, 260
Colne, i, 47, 203, 204
 ]?endle hill, near, i, 48
 the river, i, 160
Colwyn, the river, i, 237
Combe, near Bath, ii, 152, 153
Combe Bank, Kent, ii, 74
Combe Hay, ii, 32
Compton Wingate, ii, 281
Conder, ii, 5
Congleton, i, 212; ii, 10
Congresbury, i, 153
Coningsby, Lord, ii, 228
Conisborough, i, 70, 180, 181
Constable, John, i, 201
Constantinople, i, 12
Conway, ii, 293

Conway, General, at Henley, ii, 257
Cook, Lady Mary, i, 63
Cooper, Mr., at Henley, ii, 257
Cooper's Hill, ii, 65
Cope, Sir Maurice, ii, 162
Copley, Sir Godfrey, i, 182
Copper mines, i, 35, 36, 38
Corby castle, i, 27
Corfe castle, i, 86, 88
Corhampton, ii, 118
Cork and Orrery, Earl of, ii, 40-42
Cornish wreckers, i, 136
 language, ib.
Cornwall, Cape, i, 118
 Dukes of, i, 117, 118, 127,
128, 134, 135
Cornwallis, Sir Thomas, ii, 117
•Corwen, i, 234
Cotele, i, 131
Cotter, the river, i, 190
Cottington, Mr., ii, 58
Cotton family, ii, il3
Coughton, ii, 236
Courtenay family, i, 102, 138
Coventry, ii, 284
Cowbridge, ii, 204
Cowdray, ii, 112
Co-wick near Snaith, i, 184
Coxwall Knoll, ii, 221
Crackenthorpe family, i, 29
 camp, i, 30
Cramp, Mr., ii, 101
Cranborne, ii, 137
Cranborne Chase, i, 86; ii, 45, 136
Cranborne lodge, ii, 257
Cranburn wood and lodge, ii, 61
Cranford bridge, ii, 259
Cranston, Mr., ii, 101
Craven family at Burnsall, i, 193
Craven, Lord, ii, 50, 55
Crawley, Hants., ii, 124
Creech, Mr., of Blandford, ii, 141
Crediton, i, 99, 100, 108, 139
Crewe Hall, ii, 10
Criccieth, i, 237; ii, 178
Crickhowel, ii, 28
Cricklade, ii, 251. 254
Croft castle, ii, 220
Croglin school, i, 28
Cromwell, Oli-fer, i, 5, 27,57,63,88, 158;
ii, 216
Cromwell, Thomas, ii, 172
Crondall, ii, 162
Crooksbury hill, ii, 163

INDEX.

301

Crosby, i, 208
Crosby, Mr., modeller, i, 38
Crossthwaite, ii, 3
Crow, Mr. of Kiplin, i, 178
Crowland, abbot of, i, 76
Croxden abbey, i, 217
Croydon, ii, 170
Crumpton, Mr., ii, 7
Cruxeaston, ii, 49
Cuffoud family, ii, 158
Culgarth, i, 28
Cullingworth, i, 49
Culpeper family, ii, 79, 80
Cumberland fort, ii, 114
Duke of, at Clifton, i, 31

— Duke of, ii, 61; his lodge,

&c., ii, 62-64
 Earls of, i, 33, 48, 194
Cnnswick, ii, 3
Curragh, the. Isle of Man, i, 1
Curson, Nathaniel, i, 201
Cymmer abbey, ii, 179
Dacre castle, i, 32
Dale, ii, 189
Dalkeith, Lady, ii, 280
Dalmain, i, 40
 .  Hassels of, i, 33
Dalton, i, 14
Dauby family, i, 179
Danby, Mr., of Swinton, i, 179
Darent, the river, ii, 69, 70
Darlington, i. 177
Darrel, Mr., of Little Chart, ii, 81
Dart, the river, i, 104, 138
Dartford, ii, 69
Dartmoor, i, 137, 138
Dartmouth, i, 105, 138
Davenport family, i, 212
Dawkins, Mr., of Laverstock, ii, 158
Dawley, Salop, ii, 290
Daymour, Mr., ii, 142, 143
Deal, ii, 91, 103
Dean, East, ii, 102
 forest, i, 158 ; ii, 30
 Hants., ii, 158
Deanbury hill, ii, 48
Deddington, ii, 280
Dee, the river, ii, 12, 13, 14, 234, 235
Deepdene, Surrey, ii, 168
Deer, red, i, 40
De La Cress Abbey, near Leek, i, 213
Delawar, Lord, ii, 243
Delme, Mr., ii, 247

Denbigh, ii, 292
Denham, Sir John, ii, 65
Denis, Captain, of Valence, ii, 71, 73
Derby, Earl of, i, II
 his house at Preston, i, 12
 Earls of, i, 207-8
¦ Earl's of, and the Isle of Man,

i, 3

:  Mr., of East Dean, ii, 102
Derham, Mr., of Highworth, ii, 251
Dering, Dr., of Nottingham, i, 168
 Sir Edward, ii, 81
Derwent, the river, i, 18, 170, 171
Derweiitwater, i, 37
Derwentwater estate, ii, 68
Devizes, ii, 154
Devonshire, eminent persons of, i, 142
Dibden, ii, 129
Dicker, Mr., ii, 66
Didbrook, ii, 276
Digby, Lord, ii, 149
Digges, Sir Dudley, ii, 83
Dinas, ii, 184
Dinas Dinlle, ii, 174 ,
Dinke (?), i, 12
Disley, i, 210
Distington, i, 18
Ditchling, ii, 106
Ditsham, i, 104
Divers at the Needles, ii, 129, 130
Dodding family, ii, 1
Dodington, Mr., ii, 138
 Mr., at Hammersmith, ii,
258
Dogmersfield, ii, 161
Dolgelly, ii, 179, 236
Don, the river, i, 64, 69, 180, 182, 185
Doncaster, i, 168, 182-184
Dorchester, ii, 45, 96, 145, 147
¦  Oxon, ii, 265, 156
Dorking, ii, 75, ^68
Dormer family, i, 162. 165
Dorset, Dukes of, ii, 71, 72, 76, 91, 92,
142
.Douglas, Isle of Man, i, I
Doulting stone, i, 148
Dove, the river, ii, 10
Dovedale, i, 215
Dover, ii, 92-94, 103
Doveridge, i, 218
Downs, the, ii, 87, 91
Do-wnton, Dunkton, ii, 130, 244
Dozemare pool, i, 130
Dragon hill, Berks., ii, 249

302

INDEX.

Drake family, ii, 10
Drake, Dr., of York, i, 55
 Dr., of Treeton (?), i, 70
 Sir Francis, i, 106
 Mr., of Shardeloes, i, 160
Draughton quarries, i, 194
Drax, Yorkshire, i, 169
 Mr., of Charborough, i, 86, 89,
90
Drayton Basset, i, 221
Drayton, ii, 259
Droxford, ii, 118
Drumlanrig castle, i, 25
Ducane, Sir Lancelot, i, 31
Ducie, Lord, ii, 270
Dudley, i, 222
 Bishop, i, 178
 lime pits, i, 81
Duloe, i, 108, 129
Dulverton, i, 99, 141
Dulwich, ii, 172
Dumfries, i, 24, 25
Dummer, Commissioner, ii, 126
 Edmond, ib.
Dundry church, ii, 213
Dunge Ness, ii, 98
Dunham Massey and hall, i, 210
Dunkerton, i, 153 ; ii, 32
Dupont, Rev. Mr., of Temple, i, 187
Durdans, Epsom, ii, 171
Duriiford, Little, ii, 136
Dyne, Edward, ii, 101
Dysart, Lord, ii, 172
Eamont, i, 32
Eastbourne, ii, 102
Eastbury, Wilts., ii, 138, 248
Eastham, i, 5
Easthampstead, ii, 60
Eastwell park, ii, 82, 83
Eaton, John ap Ehe, ii, 14
Ebrington, Lord, ii, 280
Ecclefechan, i, 24
Eddystone lighthouse, i, 107
Eden, the river, i, 19, 26, 28, 30, 31
Eden hall, i, 28
Edgecumbe, Mount, i, 107
 Lord, i, 107, 108, 131
Edgehill, ii, 238, 239
Edlington, i, 180
Effingham, ii, 168
 Lord, ii, 262
Egerton family, of Oldtown, ii, 11
Egerton, Mr., of Knutsford, ii, 9

Egham, ii, 65
Egloshayle, i, 127
Egmont, Lord, ii, 68, 124
Egremont, i, 16
 Earl of, i, 170, 176; ii, 42, 51,
112
Eimot, the river, i, 28, 31, 33
Elenfoot, i, 17-19
Eling, Hants., ii, 128, 242
Eliot, Mr., of St. Germans, i, 108
Elland, i, 51
EUesborough, i, 160
Ellesmere, ii, 291
Elliot, Mrs., of Erivare, ii, 192
Ellis, Thomas, of Doncaster, i, 183
Elne, the river, i, 18
Elsley, Mr., i, 177
Eltham, ii, 69
Emmet, i, 204
Emsworth, ii, 113
Enborne, Wilts., ii, 157
Enville, ii, 231
Ephraim, Mount, ii, 72, 75
Epsom, ii, 165, 168, 262
Bridge castle, ii, 77
Erith, ii, 69
Erie, General, i, 90
Esher park, ii, 262
Esk, the river, i, 15, 20, 21
Essex family, ii, CO
Estrick, Anthony, his tomb, i, 85
Evelyn, Mr., of Martyr Worthy, ii. 119
Evelyn, Sir John, ii, 167
Everley, Wilts., ii. 247
Eversley, ii, 59, 263
Evesham, ii, 276-278
Ewell, 11,171.262
Ewenny, ii, 203
Exeter, i, 96, 99-101, 138 •
 Earl of, i, 76
Exmouth, i, 102
Exton, ii, 118
 park, i, 76
Eyre, Chief Justice, i, 13
 Commissioner, ii, 131
Eywood, ii, 222
Fairfax family, ii, 80
Fairford, ii, 252-254
Falmouth, i, 121
Fanshaw, Sir Richard, i, 79
Fareham, ii, 116, 118
Faringdon, ii, 254 *
Farleigh castle, ii, 152

INDEX.

303

Farley, Wilts., ii, 244
Farnaby family, ii, 72
Farnborough, Berks., ii, 264
 Hants., ii, 263
Farnham, ii, 75, 162, 163
Fenally, ii, 191
Fenwick, Mr., of Overbarrow, i, 43
Ferrers family, i, 221
Festlniog, ii, 177, 179, 236
Fettersell, Capt. Nicholas, ii, 104
Feversham, Lord, ii, 131, 244
Finch family, ii, 82
Finchampstead, ii, 59, 263
Finden, ii, 106
Finmere, ii, 240
Fisher, Mr., of Sunninghill, ii, 61
Fishguard, ii, 184
Fitz-Alan, Sir Brian, i, 178
Fitzherbert family, ii, 287, 288
Fitzwarren family, ii, 50
Fitzwilliam family, i, 180, 182, 183
Fleetwood family, ii, 6
Fleming family, of Rydal, i, 40
Flemming, Colonel, of North Stoneham,
ii, 126
Fletcher, Mr., i, 17
Flodden, battle of, i, 44
Flookburgh, ii, 1
Floyer, Mr., of Windermere, i, 42
Fogg family, ii, 82
Foley, Lord, at Witley, ii, 229, 230
Folkestone, ii, 94, 95, 103
Folkestone, Lord, ii, 131, 136
Fonthill abbey, ii, 47
Ford, Sir Edward, ii, 112
Fordingbrldge, i, 83 ; ii, 130, 244
Foreland, North, ii, 87, 91
 South, ii, 88, 91
Forest, the New, i, 82; ii, 128, 129
 the. Chamber of, i, 9
Fortescue family, i, 106
 Lord, ii, 280
Fosse Way, i, 75
Foudrey Peel, i, 14
Fowey, i, 109
 tiie river, i, 128
Fox, Bishop of Winchester, ii, 120
 Mr., of Bramham, i, 55, 61
 Mr. Lane, ii, 169
 Sir Stephen, ii, 150 ; at Farley, ii,
244, 245
Foxley, ii, 225
Frampton Green, ii, 30
Frankley, ii, 236

Freckleton, ii, 7
Freeman, Mr., i, 79 ; at Henley, ii, 257
Frith, John, ii, 70
Frocester, ii, 31
 hill, ii, 270
Frodsham, i, 8, 9
Frome, ii, 41, 42, 151
 Whilweli, ii, 145
 the river, ii, 36, 40, 90
Fryor, Mr., of Boxhill, ii, 168
Fulham, ii, 171
Fuller, Sir Douse, ii, 56
Fulmer, ii, 260
Furness, i, 9
 abbey, i, 14 ; ii, 1
Fyfield, ii, 255
Gainsborough, Earl of, i, 76;. ii, 279
Gale, Mr., of Scruton, i, 178
 Roger, i, 178
Galway, Lord, ii, 124
Gamlingay, i, 78
Gargrave, i, 48, 193, 195
Garstang, i, 13
Gascoigne, Mr., antiquary, i, 66
 Sir William, i, 54
 Sir John and Sir Edward,
i, 62
Gataker, i, 230
Gath wait, Mr., of Shackleford, ii, 163
Gatton, ii, 167
Gawsworth, i, 212
Gayton common, i, 104
Gerbier, Sir Balthazar, ii, 55
Gerrard's Cross, ii, 259
Gifford family, ii, 287
Giggleswick, i, 45, 199
Gillingham, ii, 44
Gisborne, i, II
Gisburn, i, 199
Gladestre, ii, 218
Glaslyn, the river, i, 237
Glastonbury, 145-150
Glastonbury Tor, i, 142
.Glenfoot, i, 9
Gloucester, ii, 271-273
Godalming, ii, 163, 164
Goddard family, ii, 50
Godmanchester, i, 77
Godmersham, ii, 83
Godolphin, i, 120
 Sir William, ii, 151
Godwin, Bishop, ii, 60
Gogmagog hills, i, 78

304

INDEX.

Golden Grove, ii, 195, 196
Goodwin Sands, ii, 91
Goodwood, ii, 111
Goostrey, ii, 10
Gordale beck, i, 195
Goring, Sir Charles, ii, 106
Gosport, ii, 114, 116
Grafton, Cranelees quarry in, ii, 237
Grafton, Duke of, ii, 262
Grampound, i, 109
Grange, Lancashire, ii, I, 4
Grasmere, i, 39-40
Grassington, i, 192
Greathed, Mr., of Newton Toney, ii, 246
Green, Robert, i, 143
Greenoway, John, i, 140
Greenwich Hospital, ii, 67, 68,
Greetland, i, 51
Grenville, Sir Bevil, i, 157; ii, 82
Greta, the river, i, 37, 39
Gretna bridge, i, 23
Greville, Sir Fulke, ii, 282
Grewell, ii, 160
Grey, Lord, i, 99
Griesley, Sir Thomas, i, 220
Griffith, Admiral, of Monmouth, ii, 30
 Mr., of Stanabone, i, 236
Groombridge, ii, 76
Grosby, i, 4
Guest, Bishop Edmund, i, 178
Guidot, Dr., of Bath, i, 155
Guildford, ii, 164, 165, 169, 263
Guilford, Lord, at Wroxton, ii, 239
Guillaume, Mr., ii, 8, 9
Guilsfield, ii, 16
Gunville, Wilts., ii, 138, 140
G-wyn, Mr., of Tarryaron, ii, 193
Hackfall, i, 179
Hackwood, Hants., ii, 159
Hagley, i, 223-230; ii, 230, 233-236
Haigh hall, Wigan, i, 206
 near Wigan, ii, 8
Halesowen, ii, 231, 232
Halifax, i, 50
 Marquis of, i, 74
Halnaker, ii. 111
Halser, Mr., of Grosby, i, 4
Ham, Dorset, i, 84
 House, ii, 172
 Wilts., ii, 157
Hamble, ii, 117
Hambleton, Black, i, 193
 hills, i, 177

Hamilton, Mr., of Painshill, ii, 166
 Duke of, i, 23, 119
Hammersmith, ii, 258
Hammond, Dr., i, 137
Hampstead Marshall, ii, 55
H9,mpton Court, Middlesex, ii, 66, 67,
261
 Hereford, ii, 228
Hanbury, Major, ii, 209-211
 Mr., of Kelmarsh, i, 167
Handike family, ii, 161
Hangarrack, i, 116
Hanham, Sir  , i, 86
Harcourt family, ii, 28
Hardraw Scar, i, 189, 190
Harewood, i, 54
Hariech, i, 236, 237; ii, 177, 178
Harley family, ii, 221
 Thomas, ii, 219
Harlington, ii, 259
Harrington, Lord, 1, 212
 Lord, at Petersham, ii, 172,
261
Harrison, John, of Leeds, i, 53
Harrogate waters, i, 54, 57-58
Hartland Point, i, 137
Hartwell, Bucks., i, 161
Harvey family, ii, 94
Haslewood, i, 63
¦  quarry near, i, 174
 Vavasours of, ib.
Haslington, ii, 10
Hastings, ii, 100-101
¦  ¦  Sir Edw., ii, 61
 Lady Betty, i, 62
Hatfield Chace, i, 184
Haughton, Notts., i, 169
Hausy, Sir John, ii, 149
Havant, ii, 119
Haverfordwest, ii, 188
Hawkley, Hants., ii, 264
Hawkshead, i, 42
Hay castle, i, 18
Hay on the Wye, ii, 218
Hayes, ii, 70
Hayles atibey, ii, 276
Hayling island, ii, 113
Hayward, Mr., i, 3
Hazle or Hassel, Mr., of Dalmain, i, 32,
33,40
Healy castle, i, 6
Heath academy, near Wakefield, i, 52
Hebby tower, i, 9
Heckfield, ii, 263

INDEX.

305

Heckfield Heath, ii, 59
Helbeck Lunds, i, 189
Hele, i, 116
Helford, i, 121
Helston, i, 120, 135
 mint, i, 123
Helvellyn, i, 41
Henbury, Dorset, i, 90
Hengston hill, i, 131
Henley, ii, 257
 Mr., of Grange, ii, 119
Hensbarrow, i, 125
Herbert family, ii, 16, 18, 28, 29, 198
Hereford, ii, 225-227
Herriard, Hants., ii, 160
Hertford, i, 79 .
 Earl of, ii, 237
Hesketh, i, 26
 bank, ii, 7
Heston, ii, 259
Hewell Grange, ii, 236
Hicks, Sir Baptist, ii, 269, 279
Highgate, Cumberland, i, 26, 35
Highworth, ii, 250, 251
Hillingdon, i, 160
Hinchinbrook, i, 69, 77
Hinton, Hants., ii, 118
Hipperley, Mr.-, of Lambourn, ii, 50
Hoadley family, ii, 71
 Mr., of Blackburn, i, II
Hoare, Mr., of Stourhead, ii, 43
Hoblyn, Mr., of Nanswhyden, i, 125
Hoby, Mr., of Neath abbey, ii, 195-198
Holbeche, Mr., of Fai-uborough, ii, 239
Holcomb Rogus, i, 141
Holderness, Earl of, i, 70
Holker, ii, 1, 4
Holland, near Wigan, ii, 7
 Lancashire, i, 207
Holies, Denzil, ii, 146
HoUinfare, ii, 9
Holm Mount, Dorset, i, 92
Holmbury hill, ii, 168
Holme, i, 205
 abbey, i, 19, 35
Holmes chapel, ii, 10
Holt, Mr., of Savernake, ii, 156
Holyhead, i, 238, 239 ; ii, 174, 294
Holyrood monastery, i, 24
Holywell, i, 9
Honeywood family, ii, 81
 General, ii, 65
Hooper, Mr.,.of Bowridge, 11, 136
Hopton, Lord, i, 26 ; ii, 42
CAMD. SOO.

Hopton, Sir Ralph, ii, 155
Hordle, Hants., 82, 96
Horn Dean, ii, 114
Hornby castle, Lancashire, i, 44
Homer, Mrs., her swannery, i, 94, 95
Hornton, ii, 239
Horsham, ii, 167
Horsley, East and West, ii, 169
 Mr., i, 20, 21
 on the Stroud, ii, 269
Horton, Dorset, ii, 130
Horton in Ribblesdale, i, 195
Horwood, Mr., of Dean, ii, 158
Hotham castle, i, 24
Hothfield, ii, 81
Houghton house, Preston, i, 13
 Sir George, i, 13
Hounslow, ii, 259
Howard family, of Corby and Greystoke,
i,27
Howard, Mr., of Deepdene, ii, 168
 Lord, of Efl3ngham, ii, 168
Howden, i, 170, 172, 185
Hubberston, ii, 189
Huddersfield, i, 51
Huddleston family, of Millom, i, 15
 quarry, i, 174
Huish, Mr., i, 143
Hulse, Sir Edward, ii, 130
Hungerford, ii, 55
 family, ii, 131, 252; at Far
leigh, ii, 152, 153
Hunter, Mr., of Waverley, ii, 163 '
Huntingdon, i, 77
 Earl of, i, 62
Hunton, ii, 77
Hurst castle, ii, 129
Hutchins, Mr., of Wareham, i, 91 ; his
History of Dorset, ib.
Hyatt, Mr., of Painswick, ii, 271, 272
Hyde abbey, ii, 119, 124
 Sir Robert, ii, 45
 Lord, at Wootton Bassett, ii, 266
Hythe, ii, 95, 103
.;  . West, ii, 96
Ibbesley, Hants., ii, 130
Ightham, ii, 73
Ham, i, 213, 215
Ilchester, i, 146; ii, 150
 Lord, ib.
Ilfracombe, ii, 192, 201
Ilkley, i, 193
 alum spring at, i, 49

2r

VOL. II.

306

INDEX.

lUingworth, i, 50
luce, near Wigan, i, 206
Ingiiby, Sir John, i, 58
Ingleborough, i, 46, 196-198
Ingleton, i, 46, 198 ,
Inkpen, Berks., ii, 55, 157
Inscriptions, epitaphs, &c., i, 2, 17, 19-
21, 23, 29, 30, 32-34, 36, 57, 141, 163,
166, 176,. 182, 183, 210, 224, 227, 229,
230; ii, 13, 24-26, 46, 48, 105, 110,
136, 151, 233, 234, 243, 244, 246, 247,
257
Ireby, i, 36
Ireland family, i, 209
Irf, the river, i, 16
Irke, the river, i, 10, 11
Iron mines, i, 15, 16
Irwell, the river, i, 10, 11
Irwin, Lord, i, 53
Isham, Sir Edmond, i, 167
Islington, Sadlers Wells, i, 79
Issey, i, 126
Itchen Abbots, ii, 119
Itchin, i, 10
.  the river, ii, 118, 119
Itchingswell, ii, 58
Jacobs, Mr., of Leith hill, ii, 167
James, Mr., of Ightham, ii, 73
Jeffreys, Lord, ii, 291
Jenkins, Sir Leollne, ii, 204
Jenner family, ii, 252
Jersey, Earl of, at Squerries, ii, 74
Jervais, Mr., of Herriard, ii, 160
Jervaulx Abbey, i, 185, 186
Jones, Inigo, ii, 83, 87
 Sir William, ii, 54
Kaye, Sir John, i, 51, 55
Keighley, i, 49, 195
Kelmarsh, i, 167
Kelsy, i, 9
Kemsing, ii, 73
Ken, Bishop, at Longleat, ii, 42
Kenchester, ii, 225
Kendal, i, 42, 43
 ii, 1, 2
 plague at, i, 33
Kendrick, Dr., i, 206
Kenilworth, ii, 284
Kennett, ii, 52
 the river, ii, 50, 52
Kennlngton, ii, 173
Kent, the river, ii, 1, 2, 4

Kenton, Mr., of Odiham, ii, 161
Keston, ii, 70
Keswick, i, 37, 39
Kettlewell, i, 191, 192
Keynsham, i, 158, 159 ; ii, 161
Keyt, Sir Thomas, ii, 278
Kidderminster, i, 230 ; ii, 230, 272
Kidwelly, ii, 196
Killigrew family, i, 122
Kimbolton, i, 77
Kineton, ii, 151, 238
King, Lord, at Ockham, ii, 165
King, Oliver, Bishop of Wells, i, 155
Kingsclere, ii, 58, 157
Kingsmill family, ii, 58, 59
Kingsmill, Mr., of Sidmonton, ii, 157
¦ Kingston, Dorset, i, 86
Kingston on Thames, ii, 171, 172
 Dukes of, i, 68, 73, 74, 217; ii,
37J

- (Kilmeston ?), Hants., ii, 118
Kingstone, Berks., ii, 255, 265
Kington, ii, 222
Kinnaird, Lord, ii, 108
Kinnerly cave and chapel, i, 232
Kinsham, ii, 224
Kintbury, ii, 55
Kippax, i, 62
Kirk Oswald, i, 28
Kirkby slate, i, 15
 Fleetham, i, 178
 Lonsdale, i, 43
 Stephen, i, 190
 Thoro, i, 29, 30
Kirkham, Lancashire, ii, 6
Kirkstall abbey, i, 53, 54
Kits Coty house, ii, 78
Kiveton, i, 70
Knaresborough, i, 54, 56, 57
 forest, i, 193
 waters, i, 57
Knight, Mr., of Godmersham( ?), ii, 83
Knighton, ii, 221
Knole, Kent, ii, 71-73
Knowsley park, i, 209
Knutsford, ii, 9
Lakes, the, i, 37-42
Lamb, John, of Winchester, ii, 123
Lamb, Mr., of Fairford, ii, 252
Lambert, General, i, 48
 General John, i, 106
Lambeth, ii, 172, 173
Lambourn, Berks., ii, 49, 50, 248

INDEX.

307

Lamertoh, 1, 132, 136
Lamphey, ii, 190
Lamplough, Abp., ii, 157
Lamplugh, Bishop, i, 137
Lamport, i, 167
Lan, the river, i, 43, 44
Lancaster, i, 9, 13, 14; ii, 1, 6
Land's End, i, 118
Lane family, ii, 287, 288
Langbayn, Dr., i, 32
Langdale, Great, i, 41, 42
Langford castle, ii, 56, 57, 131, 136
Langharne, ii, 192
Langley park, i, 15 ; ii, 61, 260
Langport, i, 145 ; ii, 150
Langston haven, ii, 114
Lang.streth Dale, i, 192
Lanhern, i, 126
Lanlivery, 1, 128
Lansdown, i, 157
Lantwitt Major, ii, 204
Lathom House, i, 207
Laud, Archbishop, i, 66
Lauderdale, Duke of, ii, 172
Launceston, i, 133, 134
Lavant, ii. 111
Laverstock, ii, 158
Lawson, Mr., schoolmaster, i, II
Lawton salt works, i, 8
Laycock, Wilts., ii, 154
Lazonby Fells, i, 28
Lead mines, i, 38, 48
Leatherhead, ii, 165, 168, 262
Leaver, Robert and James, i, 205
Lechlade, ii, 250
Leckford, ii, 48
Ledsham, i, 55, 62, 174
Lee, the river, i, 79, 80
 family, in Quarrington chapel, i,
164
 Sir William, ii, 241
 of Hartwell, i, 161

Leeds, i, 52, 53
— ^  castle, Kent, ii, 80
 Duke of, i, 70
Leek, i, 212, 213
Leicester, i, 167
 Earl of, ii, 282, 285
Leigh, ii, 8, 9
 of Adlington, i, 212
 Dr., rector of Halifax, i, 51
 family, of Lyme, i^ 209, 211
 under Mendip, ii, 42
Leintwardine, ii, 221

Leith hill, ii, 167
Lelant, i, 116
Len, the river, ii, 78, 80
Lenham, ii, 78, 81
Lenthal, Rowland, ii, 228
Leominster, ii, 223, 224
Lester, Mr., of Tuff, ii, 9
Letcombe castle, ii, 264
Lethieulier, Mr., i, 80, 81, 83
Leven, the river, i, 19
Levens, ii, 2
Leveson, Admiral Richard, ii, 286
Lewes, ii, 103, 104-6
Lewis, Sir John, i, 62
 Mr., of Soberton, ii, 118
Lewisham, ii, 70
Ley, Earl of Marlborough, ii, 37
Leybourn castle, ii, 79
Leyboume family, ii, 3
Leyburn, i, 186
Lichfield, i, 220
Liddel, the river, i, 22
Liddington, ii, 265
 castle, ii, 53
Ligonier, Sir John, ii, 167, 262
Lilly, Berks., ii, 264
Lilly the Grammarian, ii, 161
Limebrook abbey, ii, 224
Lincluddin nunnery, i, 24
Lincoln, Bishop of, i, 69, 77
Lincoln, Lord, at Oatlands, ii, 260, 261
Lincolnshire, i, 6
— :  fens of, i, 67
Lingeu family, ii, 227
Lisbon, trade of Falmouth with, i, 121
Liskeard mint, i, 123
Lisle, Mr., o£ Moyle's Court, ii, 130
 family, of Moyle's Court, ii, 243,
244
Lister. Mr., of Gisburn, i, 199
Litchfield, Earl of, i, 164, 165
Littlecot, Pophams of, ii, 55
Liverpool, i, 4, 5
Lizard Point, i, 107, 120
Llanarth, ii, 182
Llanbadam fawr, ii, 181
Llandaff, ii, 205
Llandavelog, ii, 24
Llahdeilo fawr, ii, 1 93
Llandidod, ii, 22
Llandovery, ii, 194
Llandridod Wells, ii, 223
Llandrillo, i, 234
Llanelly, ii, 196, 197

308

INDEX.

Llanfilling, i, 233
Llangadock, ii, 194, 196
Llangurig, ii, 21
Llangwm, i, 235
Llanidloes, ii, 19, 20, 21, 22
Llannon, ii, 196
Llanrhaiadr, i, 234, 239
Llanrhystyd, ii, 182
Llanrwst, ii, 293
Llansantffraid, ii, 182
Llanstephan, ii, 192
Llanthony abbey, ii, 28, -217
Llanvair castle, ii, 211
Llanwieder, i, 233
Lloyd, Sir John, of Builth, ii, 23
 Mr., of Llanarth, ii, 182
Lock, Mr., of Portsmouth, i, 87
Loddon, the river, ii, 60
Loder, the river, i, 31
Long, Mr., ii, 266
Long Meg, i, 28
Longleat, ii, 38, 39, 42
Longtowu, i, 19
Longworth Lodge, ii, 255
Lonsdale, Earl of. i, 30
Lostwithiel, i, 108, 128, 129, 135, 136
 mint, i, 123
Loughborough, i, 168
Lovebone, Nicholas, i, 127
Low, Jesson, i, 222
Lowther, Sir James, i, 16, 17
 Sir William, ii, 1, 4
Lucas, H., his Hospital, ii, 60
Lucton scliool, ii, 222
Ludgershall, ii, 246, 247
Ludgvan, i, 119
Ludlow, ii, 221
Lnffield Abbey, i, 166
Lulworth castle, i, 91
 cove, i, 92
Lumley, Mr., of Stansted, ii, 112
Lundy island, ii, 191
Lune, the river, i, 13, 14
Lydd, ii, 97, 98, 103
 the river, i, 137
Lydeatt, Mr., of Kimbolton, i, 77
Lydiard Tregoze, ii, 266
 St. John's of, ii, 54
Lyme park, Lancashire, i, 211
Lyme Regis, i, 96-98
Lymington, i, 82 ; ii, 129
Lympne, ii, 96
Lyndhurst, ii, 129
Lyons, Mr., ii, 59

Lytchet, South and Upper, i, 89, 90
Lyttelton, Dr., Dean of Exeter, i, 81
Lyttleton family, ii, 231, 235, 236
 ^ Sir George, ii, 230, 235, 236
 Sir Thomas, his house at Hag
ley, i, 223-230 ; ii, 233-236
Macclesfield, Lord Chancellor, i, 217
Machynlleth, ii, 180
Mackworii, Mr., of Neath, ii, 199
Madely Hill, i, 6
 Wood, 223, 231
Madron, i, 117
Maiden Bradley, ii, 42
Maidenhead, ii, 257
Maidstone, ii, 77
Maidwell, i, 167
Malahide, i, 1
Maldraeth bay, ii, 174
Malham Tarn and Cove, i, 45, 46, 195
Mailing, West, ii, 79
 East, ii, 80
Malmesbury, ii, 267-269
Malpas, ii, 10, 11
Malton, Lord, i, 56
Maltravers, Lord, i, 90
Malwood castle, ii, 242, 243
Mamhead, i, 103
 obelisk, i, 105
Man, Isle of, i, 1-3
 Bishop of, Dr. Wilson, i, 1, 2
Manchester, i, 9-11
 Duke of, i, 77
Manners, Mr., of Croiton, ii, 7
Mansell family, ii, 200-202, 204
Mansfield, i, 168
Manwood, Sir Roger, ii, 89
Manyfold, the river, i, 213-215
Mapledurwell, ii, 160
Marazion or Market Jew, i, 118-120
Marden, ii, 226, 227
Margam, ii, 200-202
Margate, ii, 86, 103
Market Harborough, i, 167
Markland waters, i, 25
Marlborough, ii, 50, 51, 156, 247, 248
 Dukes of, i, 162; ii, 61,
260
Marshfield, ii, 34
Marston, Somerset, ii, 40, 151
Marylebone, ii, 257
Masham, i, 178, 179
Mason, Dr., of Cambridge, i, 77
Mathern, ii, 213

INDEX.

309

Mathyraf al castle, ii, 1 5
May, Mr., of Odiham, ii, 161
Mayburg, i, 31, 32
Mazarine, Lord, i, 220, 221
Meadows, Mr., i, 68
 Sir Philip, ii, 124
Meifod, ii, 15
Melbury, i, 86
Melcombe Regis, i, 92
Melksham, ii, 154
Mellish, Mr., of Blyth, i, 170
Melton on the Hill, i, 182
Menai Straits, ii, 174
Mendip Hills, i, 146, 148, 152, 153
Mere, Wilts., ii, 44
Meredith family, i, 212
Meril, Mr., of Lamston, ii, 124
Mersey, the river, i, 5, 9, 210
Merton, ii, 261
 abbey, ii, 169
Metcalfe, Mr., of Nappa, i, 189
Methuen family, ii, 37
Mexborough, i, 70, 181
Michelgrove, ii, 107
Middleham, i, 185, 186
Middleton, ii, 142
 family, ii, 14
 Lord, ii, 163
Middletons, Cumberland, i, 28, 31
Middlewich, i, 8 ; ii, 10
Midford, Somerset, ii, 153
Midhnrst, ii, 112
Midsomer Norton, i, 153
Mildenhall, ii, 50
Mllford, Hants., ii, 129
Mllford haven, ii, 181, 184, 189
Millbrook, Hants., ii, 125, 128
Miller, Mr., of Radway, ii, 238, 239
Millom castle, i, 15
Mills, Sir Richard, of Mottisfont, ii, 125
Milner, Dr., of Leeds, i, 53
Milnthorpe, ii, 1
Milton Abbas, ii, 142, 143
 Devon, i, 131
 Hants,, ii, 130
 Kent, ii, 81
 Lord, ii, 143
Milward, Judge, i, 218
Minchin Hampton, ii, 251, 271
Minehead, ii, 201
Minley warren, ii, 263
Minterne, Dorset, ii, 148
Missenden, Great, i, 160
 Little, i, 160; ii, 241

Missing, Mr , of Poole, i, 87
Mitcham, ii, 261
Mod bury, i, 106
Moffat waters, i, 25
Mole hill, ii, 75
 the river, ii, 167-169
Molesworth, i, 180
 family, i, 127
Molinenx, Sir More, ii, 164
Monks Sherborne, ii, 59
Monkton Farleigh, ii, 152
Monmouth, ii, 29
 Duke of, i, 98 ; his capture,
ii, 130
Montacute, Lord, ii, 106, 112
Montagu, Dukes of, i, 200 ; ii, 129
Monteagle, Lord, E. Stanley, i, 44
Montgomery, ii, 17, 18
Moore, Mr., a minister, i, 3, 4
Jlordaunt family, ii, 167
 Col., i, 212
More family, ii, 161
Morecambe bay, i, 19
Moresby, i, 18
Morgan, Mrs., of Ruperra, ii, 208
Morley family, of Droxford, ii, 118
 Bp. of Winchester, ii, 121
.  Sir William, ii. 111
Morrice family; i, 127, 132, 133, 134
 Sir William, i, 182
Morris, Mr., of Holyhead, ii, 174
 Mr., of Piercefield, ii, 214, 215
 Mr., of Maesma-wr (?), i, 234
Mortimer, Berks., ii, 60, 264
Mortimer's Cross, ii, 222
Morton Corbet, ii, 291
Morvah, i, 117
Morvill, Hugh, i, 28
Mottisfont, ii, 125
Moulsey, ii, 261, 262
Mount Edgcnmb, i, 107
Mount Sorrell, i, 168
Mousehole, Cornwall, i, 118, 136
Moyle, Sir Thomas, ii, 82
Moyle's Court, Hants., ii, 130, 243
Muncaster hall, i, 1 5
Musgrave, Sir Philip, i, 28
Nanswhyden, i, 125, 126
Nantwich, i, 6, 9 ; ii, 10
Napper family, ii, 146
Natley, ii, 160
Neath, ii, 199, 200
 abbey, ii, 196, 198, 199

310

INDEX.

Needles, the, i, 83
 diving at, ii, 129, 130
Nescliffe hill, i, 232
Ness, the, or Nose, ii, 98
Netherby, i, 20, 21
Netherhall, i, 17, 18, 19
Netley abbey, ii, 127, 128
Nettlebed, ii, 256
Nettleton, ii, 34
Nevern, ii, 183
Nevil, Bishop of Salisbury, ii, 149
 Sir Thomas, i, 54
Neville family, ii, 28, 29
Nevin, ii, 176
Newark, i, 75, 169
Newark abbey, Surrey, li, 262
Newbiggin, i, 29
Newburgh, Lady, ii, 108
Newbury, ii, 49, 55
Newcastle under Lyme, i, 6, 7
 '¦  Dukes of, i, 72, 74, 168, 169 ;
ii, 103
Newchurch, i, 203, 204
Newcomen, Mr., of Dartmouth, i, 105,
111
Newenden, ii, 96
Newhaven, ii, 103
Newlin, Thomas, vicar of Beeding, ii, 106
Newlyn bay, i, 118
Ne-wnham, ii, 30
Ne-wnham, Mr., of Newtimber, ii, 106
Newport, Mon., ii, 209
 Pagnel, i, 162
 Pembroke, ii, 183
Newtimber, ii, 106
Newton Kyme, i, 61, 1 74
Ne-wton, Sir Isaac^ his nephew, i, 192
Newton Toney, ii, 246
Newtown, Hants,, ii, 157
Newtown, Montgomery, ii, 18, 19
Nicholas, Mr., of West Horsley, ii, 169
 Mr., of South Stoneham, ii,
126
Nicoles, Lady, of Chinham, ii, 59
Nidd, the river, i, 56, 175
Nith, the river, i, 24, 25
Nithsdale, i, 24
Noel family, ii, 279
Nonsuch palace, ii, 171, 262
Norfolk, Dukes of, i, 12, 27, 68, 69; ii,
107, 108, 169
North and Guildford, Lord, ii, 171
Northallerton, i, 177
Northampton, i, 166-167

Northampton, Earis of,.ii, 16, 92, 102
Northumberland, Earls of, i, 176
Norton family, of Southwick, ii, 118
 Mr., ii, 56
 St. Philip, ii, 151
Norwood, ii, 172
Nostell priory, i, 55, 63
Nottingham, i, 168
^-  Earl of, i, 55, 65
Nunney castle, ii, 41, 151
Oatlands, ii, 260, 161
Odiham, ii, 161
Ugbourn, ii, 52, 53
Ogilvie, Sir John, i, 54
Ogle of Whiston, i, 208
Oglethorpe, General, ii, 163
 family, ii, l64
Ogmore castle, ii, 203
Okehampton, i, 138
Okeover, i, 215, 216
Oldham, Hugh, of Manchester, i, 11
 Bishop Hugh, i, 100, 132
Oliver, Mrs., of Chester, i, 5
OUerton, i, 74, 169
Onslow, Lord, ii, 165
¦ Speaker, ii, 67, 165 '
Ormonde, Duke of, i, 86
Ormskirk, i, 207, 208 ; ii, 7
Orpington, ii, 69
Orrery, Lord, ii, 125, 151
Ospringe, ii, 81
Oswestry, i, 232 ; ii, 15
Otford palace, ii, 72
Ottery (Autre) St. Mary, i, 99'
Ouse, the river, i, 171, 172, 185
Over, i, 9
Overbarrow, i, 43, 48
Overton, Hants., ii, 157, 292
Owen, Sir William, ii, 190
Oxendon, i, 167
Oxford, Earls of, i, 77, 119 ; ii, 220, 222
 Lady, ii, 219
 Lady, at Welbeck, i, 68, 72
Packer family, ii, 76
Packington, Sir John, ii, 188
Paddington, ii, 257
Padstow, i, 126
Page family, ii, 254
 Sir Gregory, his house, ii, 69
Pagham, ii, 108
Paignton, i, 104
Painell, Gervase, i, 222

INDEX.

311

Painshill, Surrey, ii, 166
Painswick, ii,'271
Palmerston, Lord, ii, 125
Papplewick, i, 168
Par, Cornwall, i, 109
Parker, Mr., of Saltram, i, 106
Parkyns, Sir Thomas, i, 168
Parlington, Gascoignes of, i, 62
Parnell, Mr., Schoolmaster, i, II
Parrot, Mr., i, 158
Parsons, Alderman, of Eeigate, ii, 167
Paten, Mr., his house, i, 9
Paulet family, ii, 160
Peasemore, ii, 264
Peel, Isle of Man, i, 2, 3
Pelham, James, ii, 101
 Mr., i, 18
 Mr., of Stanmore, ii, 104
 Sir Nicholas, ii, 102
 Thomas, of Stanmer, ii, 101
Pembridge, ii, 224
Pembroke, ii, 188-190
 family, ii, 16
 Sir Fulke, ii, 288-290
¦ Earis of, ii, 47, 48, 68. 136

Pen Ke-wiwatch, i, 150
Pencarrow, i, 127
Pencils, lead, i, 38
Pendennis castle, i, 121
Pendlehill, i, 11, 193, 200, 202
 Buttock of, i, 203
Pendragon castle, i, 190
Penenden heath, ii, 78
Peniston, Lady, i, 166
Penmorfa, ii, 178
Pennington, Sir John, i, 15
Pennygent, i, J 96
Penrith, i, 32, 34
 Fell, i, 33
 plague at, ib.
Penryn, Cornwall, i, 122
Pensford, ii, 34, 35
Penshurst, ii, 75
Pentrldge hill, ii, 136
Penzance, i, 118, 135 ; mint, i, 123
Peploe, Mr., ii, 224
Pepperharrow, ii, 163
Percy family, at Wressel, i, 170
Perranzabuloe, i, 126
Perrot, Sir John, ii, 192
Pershore, ii, 278
Perth, Duke of, i, 31
Peryan, Sir William, i, 139
Peterborough, Earl of, ii, 126

Petersfield, ii, 75
Petersham, ii, 172, 261
Petertavey, i, 137
Petre, Lord, i, 71, 72
 Lady, i, 173
Petterel, the river, i, 34
Petty, Sir William, ii, 125
Petworth, ii, 112 ; church, i, 89
Pevensey, ii, 101, 102
Peverel, Richard, of Hubal, ii, 287
Phillack, i, 116
Phipps family, ii, 37
Picts holes, i, 18
Piercefield, ii, 214, 215
Pierrepoint family, i, 217
 Lord, ii, 289, 290
Piddle, the river, i, 90, 91
Piddleto-wn, i, 91
Pllewell, Hants., ii, 129
Piling moss, i, 13
Pilling, ii, 6
Pimpeme barrow, ii, 140
Pistyll Rhaiadr, i, 233
Pit, Mr., of Odiham, ii, 161
Pitt, Christopher, ii, 141
 Mr., of Kingston, ii, 146
Plague, the, in 1598, i, 33
Piatt, Dr., i, 66
Playden, ii, 98
Pleydell, Sir Mark, ii, 249
Plinlimmon, ii, 20, 23, 177
Pluckley, ii, 81
Plymouth, i, 106-7
Plymouth, Lord, ii, 236
Plympton, i, 106, 135
Pococke, Dr., the Orientalist, ii, 50, 51
157
 family, ii, 264
Pollen family, ii, 56
Pomfret, Lord, i, 166
Pontefract castle, i, 55, 63
 New Hall, i, 63
Pontypool, ii, 209, 210
Poole, i, 6, 86-89
Pooley, i, 32
?ope, Alex., inscription to, i, 227
Popham family, ii, 55
Porcelain making, i, 120
Porchester, ii, 114, 116
Port, Mr., of Ham, i, 215
Portland, isle of, i, 91, 92
 Duke of, i, 72 ; ii, 259
Portmau family, ii, 141
 Mr., of Blandford, ii, 140

312

INDEX.

Portmore, Lord, ii, 66
Portsdown, ii, 117
Portsea island, ii, 114
Portskewet, ii, 212
Portsmouth, ii, 114-116
Pot, Jingly and Hurley, i, 196
Potteries, ttie, i, 6-8
Potton, Beds., i, 78
Poulton, ii, 6
Powderham castle, i, 102
Powel family, ii, 199
Powis castle, ii, 17
 family, ii, 1 5, 18
 Lord, i, 234; ii, 176
Prawns, Welsh, i, 237
Preesall, ii, 6
Prescot, i, 208, 209
Prestbury, ii, 274
Presteign, ii, 219, 222
Preston, i, 9, 11, 12; ii, 6
 family, ii, 1, 4
Price family, of Newtown, ii, 19
 Mr., of Rhiwlas, i, 236
Prideaux family, i, 127
Prior's Court, Berks., ii, 264
Probus, i, 110
Puddle, the river, ii, 142, 143, 147, 148
Puddletown, Wilts., ii, 143
Pudsey family, i, 199
Purbeck hills, i, 91
Purefoy, Sir Henry, ii, 254
Pusey, Berks., ii, 255
Putney, ii, 169, 171, 172
PwUchroghan, ii, 189
Pwllheli, ii, 176-178, 236, 237
Pyles, Sir Seymour, ii, 126
Quariey hill, ii, 48, 124
Quarrington chapel, i, 164
Queenborough, ii, 89
Queensberry, Duke of, i. 19, 25, 58
Queen's Camel, ii, 150
Quilhampton, ii, 157
Radnor, Old and New, ii, 218, 222
 Lord, i, 110; his seat, i, 128
Radway, ii, 238 ; Red Horse, near, ii, 281
Raglan castle, 21 5, 216
Ragley park, ii, 237
Rainsford, Mr., of Brixworth, i, 167
Ramsbui-y, ii, 50, 54
Ramsdown hills, i, 84
Ramsey island, ii, 187
. Isle of Man, i, 1

Ramsgate, ii, 87, 103
Ranelagh, Lord, ii, 61
Ratcliffe family, i, 37
Rauthmell, Rev. Mr., i, 43, 48
Ravenglass, i, 9, 15, 16
Ravoe, Mrs. of Bath Easton, ii, 33
Raymond, Capt., of Valentines, ii, 258
Read, Judge, i, 169
 Bishop Robert, ii, 109
Reculver, ii, 86
Redbridge, i, 92; ii, 128
Redruth, i, 113
Reeve, Mr., i, 3
Reigate, ii, 70, 75, 167, 168
Restormel castle, i, 128
Retford, i, 168-170
Uhayadergwy, ii, 21-24
Rhiwlas, i, 236
Ribble, the river, i, 11, 12, 45, .46, 191,
195, 196, 199; ii, 7
Ribchester, i, 9, 11, 12
Rice, Mr., of Newtown, ii, 193, 195
Richborough, ii, 90
Richard II., murder of, i, 63
Richard's castle, ii, 221, 222
Richmond, Surrey, ii, 169, 172; hill,
ii, 261
 Duke of, ii, 110, 111
 Yorks., i, 168; plague at,
1,33
Rickmansworth, i, 80
Riggs, Mrs., of IBath Easton, ii, 33
Ringwood, i, 83 ; ii, 130, 243
Ripley, Surrev ii, ,165, 169, 262
 Yorks", i, 58, 153
River, the New, i, 79
Rivington Pike, ii, 8
Robinson family, i, 176
 Sir Tancred, i, 176
Roch castle, ii, 188
Rochdale, i, 205
Roche, Cornwall, i, 125
Rochester, Bishops of, ii, 70
Rock Savage, i, 9
Rockingham, Marquis of, i, 55, 65, 67
Roding, the river, i, 80
Rodley, Mr., of Alresford, ii, 119
Roehampton, ii, 261
Rokeby family, i, 184
Roman remains, inscriptions, &c., i, II-
13, 16-18, 20-23, 29, 30, 34-36, 43, 44,
58, 153, 176, 183, 189, 195
Romney, ii, 103
 Marsh, ii, 96-98

INDEX.

313

Romsey, ii, 125
Rookley, Hants., ii, 124
Rose castle, i, 26
Rother, the river, ii, 97-99
Rotherham, i, 68, 69, 168
Roxburgh, Duke of, ii, 64
Roundway down, ii, 155, 156
Royston, Yorks., i, 65, 63
 Cambs., i, 78
Ruabon, ii, 13, 14
Rufford abbey, i, 68, 74, 169
Rufus stone, ii, 242, 243
Runnymead, ii, 66
Ruperra, ii, 208
Russell family, ii, 145
 Sir John, i, 99
Rushein abbey, i, 3
Rnshout, Sir John, ii, 280
Ruthin, ii, 292
Rutland, Earls of, their tombs, i, 75
 Dukes of, i, 69, 75
Rutter, Bishop, epitaph on, i, 2
Rycaut, Sir Paul, ii, 79
Rydal water, i, 40
Ryder, Sir Dudley, ii, 278
Rye, ii, 97-99, 103
Sacheverel family, i, 217
Sagar, John, i, 204
St. Agnes, i, 126
 Hill, tin works at, i, 123
St. Alban's, i, 80
 Duke of, ii, 61
St. Anne's hill, ii, 65
St. Aubyn, Sir John, i, 119, 127
St. Austell, i, 109
St. Barb, Sir John, ii, 125
St. Bees mountains, i, 16, 18
St. Blazey, i, 109
St. Bride's, ii, 203
St. Burjan, i, 117
St. Catherijs hills, i, 84
St. Clere, ii, 73
St. Columb, i, 125, 126
St. Cross, hospital of, ii, 124, 242
St. David's, ii, 184-187
— ^  Bishops of, ii, 27
 head, ii, 177
St. Denis, Southampton, ii, 125
St Donat's castle, ii, 203
St. Erth, i, 116
St. Germans, Cornwall, i, 108, 131
St. Ives, Cornwall, i, 117
St. John, Mr., of Dogmersfield, ii, 161
CAMD. SOC.

St. John family, ii, 54, 266, 267
St. Just, i, 117
St. Leger, Sir Anthony, ii, 294
St. Margaret's island, ii, 190, 191
St. Mawe's fort, i, 122
St. Michael's Mount, i, 114, 118, 119
St. Nicholas island, i, 106, 107
St. Tudwall's Road, ii, 177
Salford, i, 10, 11
Salisbury, i, 13, 83; ii, 48, 56, 131-135;
cathedral, i, 60
 Countess of, i, 71
 Earls of, ii, 137
 Hall, near Ribchester ,i, 12
 Plain, ii, 38
Salkeld, little, i, 28
Salley abbey, i, 200
Salt springs, i, 6
Saltash, i, 107; St. Stephen's, near, i,
131
Saltram, i, 108
Saltwood castle, ii, 95
Samboume, little, ii, 125
Sampford, i, 99
Sandal, Kirk, i, 184
Sandal Magna, Duke of York slain at,
i, 52
Sandbach, i, 8; ii, 10, 11
Sandgate castle, ii, 95
Sandown castle, ii, 91
Sandsfoot castle, i, 93
Sandwich, ii, 87-91, 103
 Eari of, i, 69, 77
Sandys, Lord, ii, 158
Sanquhar, i, 25
Sark, the river, i, 22, 23
Sarum, Old, i, 82
Saundersfoot, ii, 192
Saunderson, Bishop, i, 69
Savernake forest, ii, 156, 247
Savile, George and Thomas, i, 52
 Sir George, i, 68, 74, 169
 Sir Henry, Provost of Eton, i,
51
— $  Sir John, of Bradley, i, 51
Savory, Captain, i, 105, 111
Saxey, Henry, ii, 151
Saxon, Elizabeth, i, 194
Scales, i, 35
Scarborough, Earl of, ii, 112
Scawen, Mrs., of Maidwell, i, 167
Scilly Islands, i, 118
Scratchbury, ii, 38
Scroop family, i, 187

2s

VOL. II.

314

INDEX.

Scroop, Mr., of Danby, i, 186
Scropton, i, 219
Scruton, i, 178
Seaford, ii, 102, 103
Seal, Kent, ii, 72
Sedgemoor, battle of, i, 145 ; ii, 130
Sedlescombe, ii, 100
Selby, i, 171-173
Selsea, ii, 108
Selwood forest, ii, 41
Sel-wyn, Counsellor, i, 51
 Mr., ii, 246
Sennen, i, 118
Serie, Mr., of Testwood, ii, 128
Seton, Sir Christopher, i, 25
Settle, i, 45, 46, 49, 199
Sevenoaks, ii, 71, 72
Severan bridge, i, 35
Severn, the river, i, 230, 231 ; ii, 17-20
Seymour, Mr., of Sherborne, ii, 149
Shaftesbury, i, 83 ; ii, 44, 45
 Earis of, ii, 137, 138
 ¦ Lord, at Reigate, ii, 168
Shakespeare's cliff, ii, 94
Shalbourn, ii, 157
Shardeloes park, i, 160
Sharp tor; i, 130
Shawich or Sandwich, Dorset, i, 89
Sheen palace, ii, 172
Shefly (?), i, 8
Shelboume, Lord, ii, 125
Shelford, Great and Little, ii, 248
Shelley, Sir John, ii, 107
Shelsely ironworks, ii, 229
Shenstone, Mr., of Halesowen, ii, 232
Sherborne, ii, 45
 East and West, ii, 59
 Dorset, i, 86 ; ii, 146-150
Sherbourn, Sir Nicholas, i, 12
Sherburn, York, i, 174
Sherfield, ii, 59, 158, 162
Sherlock, Bishop of Salisbury, ii, 134
Sherwood forest, i, 168
Shippon, ii, 255
Shipston on Stour, ii, 280
Shipton, ii, 246
 mother, i, 57
Shirley mill, Hants., ii, 125
Shobdon, ii, 219, 220
Shoreham, ii, 106
Shrewsbury, i, 12, 231, 232 ; ii, 15
 Eari of, i, 217
Shrivenham, ii, 249
Sidbury hill, ii, 247

Siddlesham mill, ii, 108
Sidley, Sir William, ii, 79
Sidmonton, ii, 157
Silbury, ii, 156
•  hill, 11,52
Silchester, ii, 60, 264
Silsden, i, 49
Simon's Seat, i, 193
Simson, Mrs., of Barden, i, 194
Singleton family, ii, 6
.Sinhouse, Mr., of Netherhall, i, 17, 18
Sittingbourne, ii, 81
Sizergh castle, ii, 2
Skipton, i, 48, 49
 castle, i, 194, 195
Skirrid Fawr, ii, 216
Skitley church, i, 71
Sleagan, Mr. of Halifax, i, 50
Sllndon, ii, 108
Slingsby, Sir Henry, of Scriveu, i, 57
Sloane, Mr. , of South Stoneham, ii, 126
Sloper, Mr., of West Woodhay, ii, 55,
167
Smith, Mr., vicar of Dartmouth, i, 105
Smythe family, ii, 81
Snaith, i, 185
Snowdon, i, 237; ii, 17, 175, 177, 179
Soberton, ii, 118
Solihull, ii, 285
Solway frith, i, 19
Somerset, Dukes of, i, 37, 170; ii, 42, 51,
112, 141
Southampton, ii, 125, 126, 242
Southcote, Mr., of Weybridge, ii, 260
Southsea castle, ii, 114
Southwell, i, 68, 74, 169
 church, i, 69, 74
Southwick, ii, 118
Sowley lake, ii, 129
Speen, Berks., ii, 55
Spencer, Mr., of Rookley, ii, 124
Spencer, Mr., at Wimbledon, ii, 171
Spoffiorth, i, 175
Sprotborough, i, 182, 183
Spy Park, Wilts., ii, 154
Squerries, near Westerham, ii, 74
Stachan family, ii, 143
Stainborough, near Barnsley, i, 63, 65
Staines, ii, 241, 260
Stalmine moss, ii, 6
Stamford, i, 69, 76
Stamford, Lord, i, 210, 231
Standard hill, i, 177, 178
Standish, Sir Thomas, ii, 8

INDEX.

315

Standish family, ii, 8
Stanhope, Dean, ii, 70
 Sir William, of Eythorp, i, 161,
164
Stanley, Mr., rector of Bury, i, 11
Stanlow, Cheshire, i, 201
Stanmore, ii, 104
Stannaries, the, i, 134
Stansted, ii, 112
Stanton, ii, 276
 Drew, i, 169; ii, 34
 Wick, ii, 35
Stanway, ii, 276
Stapleton family, i, 175
Stapleton, Bishop, i, 100
Star Cross, i, 102
Start Point, i, 107
Stawell, Lord, ii, 118
Stepney, ii, 257
Stepney, Sir Thomas, ii, 196, 197
Steyning, ii, 106
Stilton, Hunts., i, 69, 77
Stockbridge, ii, 124
Stockdale Fells, i, 36
Stockport, i, 210
Stockwell, ii, 173
Stoke, Notts., i, 75
Stoke upon Trent, i, 8
Stoke House, ii, 61
Stokes Down, i, 158
Stone Easton, ii, 34
Stone quarries near Corfe, i, 89 ; Port
land, i, 93
Stoneham, North, i, 82, 126
 South, ii, 126
Stonehenge, i, 57, 59 ; ii, 57
Stonehouse, Mr., of Tubney, ii, 255
Stoneland Lodge, ii, 76
Stonor, ii, 88, 90
, .  family, ii, 289
Stonyhurst, i, 12 >
Stopford, ii, 10
Stour, the river, i. 83, 84 ; ii, 81, 83, 89
Stourbridge, i, 208, 223, 230 ; ii, 230
Stourhead, ii, 42, 43
Stourton, ii, 230
 Lord, ii, 42, 44
Stoven, Mr., of Doncaster, i, 183
Stow on the Wold, ii, 280
Stowe, Bucks., i, 165 ; ii, 240, 241
Strafford, Earls of, i, 55, 63, 66, 90
Strange, Lord, i, 12
Strangford, Lords, Sm-ythes, ii, 81
Strasburgh cathedral, i, 60

Stratford on Avon, ii, 237, 238
Stratton, Somerset, i, 159
Streatham, ii, 1 72
Strickland, Wilts., ii, 142
 family, ii, 2
Strid, the, i, 194
Strignal castle, ii, 211
Stroud, ii, 270, 271
Studley on the Arrow, ii, 236
Stump, WiUiam, of Malmesbury, ii,
268
Sturminster, i, 83
 Newton, ii, 141
Sturt, Mr., of Heckfield, ii, 59
Sudbrook, ii, 213 >
Sudbury, Staffordshire, i, 218
Sudeley castle, ii, 275
Suffolk and Berks., Earl of, ii, 269
Sunbury, ii, 66
Sunninghill, ii, 61, 257
Sutton Coldfield, i, 222
 Hereford, ii, 227
Swainswick, i, 166
Swale, the river, i, 178, 190
Swannery iu Dorset, i, 94, 95
Swansea, ii, 194, 198
Swathling, Hants., ii, 126
Swindale beck, i, 30
Swindon, ii, 53, 265
Swinford, Old, ii, 231
Swinton, i, 70
Sydenham, ii 172
Sydney, Sir Henry, ii, 294
Tadcaster, i, 55, 61, 170, 174
Talbot, Mr., of Kineton, ii, 238 ; of
Laycock, ii, 200
Tamar, the river, i, 107, 131-133
Tame family, ii, 252, 263
Tame, the river, i, 220
Tamwortb, i, 220, 221
Tana Manah, ii, 16
Tancred, Sir William, i, 176
Tankersley park, i, 65
Tankerville, Lord, ii, 112
Tan y Bwlch, ii, 179
Tarleton, ii, 7
Tarvey, i, 9
Taunton, i, 108, 139, 143, 144
Tavistock, i, 131, 132, 135
Tavistock abbey, i. 137
Taylor, Dr., of Cambridge, i, 77 ; of
Settle, i, 49
Teignmonth, i, 103

316

INDEX.

Tempest, Mr., of Broughton, i, 195
Temple Newsam, i, 53
Temple Sowrby, i, 31
Temple, Mr., of Moor Park, ii, 163
Temple, Sir William, ii, 163 ; at Sheen,
ii, 172
Temple, Earl, ii, 139
Templeborough, i, 68, 69
Tenby, ii, 190
Tenterden steeple, ii, 91
Terne, the river, i, 232
Test, the river, ii, 48, 157, 158
Tetbui-y, ii, 269
Tettenhall, ii, 287
Tewkesbury, ii, 276-278
Thame, the river, i, 160-162
Thanet, Isle of, ii, 86-88
Thanet, Earls of, 28, 33, 49; ii, 77, 81,
88
Thatcham, ii, 56
Thaxted, i, 80
Thirsk, 1,176, 177
Thistlethwait, Mr., ii, 56, 245; of South
wick, ii, 118
Thomas, Sir Edmund, ii, 205
Thomson, Sir Peter, i, 87
Thoresby, i, 68, 73, 74, 168
Thoresby, the antiquary, i, 53
Thome, i, 184
Thorney island, ii, 113
Thornhill, Mrs., of Chester, i, 5
Thornhill, Sir James, i, 92
Thornhill, Lady Juana, ii, 82
Thornton, Yorkshire, i, 195
Thorp arch, i, 175
Thorpe, and Thorpe Fell, 1,192, 193
Throgmorton, Sir Robert, ii, 236
Throwley hall, i, 214
Thurland castle, i, 44
Tickhill, i, 170, 180
Tidworth East, ii, 245
Tilbury camp, Hants, i. 82
Tilney, Lord, i, 80
Tin, manner of dressing, &c., i, 114-116
Tin mines, i, 109, et se^.
Tintagel, i, 126
Tinwald mount, i, 3
Tisbury, ii, 46
Titchbourne, ii, 118
Titchfield, ii, 117, 118
Tiverton, i, 99, 140
Toadmoor, ii, 271
Todory Pill,(!) i, 23
Toll, Mr., of Grewell, ii, 160

Tomlinson, Dr., of Cheltenham, ii, 274
Tong, Salop, ii, 288
Tonstall, i, 8
Tonstall, Dr., of Rochdale, i, 205
Tooting, ii, 171
Topcliff, i, 176
Topsham, i, 99, 102
Torbay, i, 103, 105
Torrington, Earl of, i, 104
Totness, i, 105
Towneley family, i, 204
Townshend, Thomas, ii, 101
Towton, i, 174
Towton, battle of, i, 63
Tracy family, ii, 262, 254
Tracy, Mr., of Stanway, ii, 276
Traethma-wr, ii, 178
Treby, Mr., of Plympton, i, 106
Tredegar park, ii, 208
Treeton, i, 70
Tregonnil, Sir John, ii, 142
Tregony, i, 109
Trelawney, Sir Jonathan, i, 109 ; Sir
John, ib.
Tremayne, family, i, 132
Trenchard family, ii, 144, 145
Trenchard, Mr., of Lytchet, i, 89
Trent, the river, i, 74-76, 220
Tretower castle, ii, 28
Trevor, Lord, ii, 66
TroUope, Sir William, ii, 246
Trowbridge, ii, 36, 37, 164-156
Trumbal, Sir William, ii, 60
Truro, i, 110, 122, 134
 mint at, i, 123
Tuckfield family, i, 139
Tufton family, ii, 88
Tunbridge, ii, 72, 75
Tunbridge Wells, ib.
Tunbridge waters, ii, 100
Tunstall, i, 44
Tutbury, i, 219, 220
Tuxford, i, 169
Twisden, Sir Roger, ii, 80
Twiverton, i, 157 ; ii, 33
Tyldesley, Colonel, ii. 8, 9
Tyrrel family, i, 218
Tyrwhit, Sir John, ii, 204
Tysoe, Red Horse near, ii, 239
Uffington, ii, 265
UUeswater, i, 32, 41
Ulverstone, i, 9 ; ii, I
Up Park, Sussex, ii, 112

INDEX.

31;

Upcerne, ii, 143
Usk, the river, ii, 209
 town, ii, 211
Uttoxeter, i, 217
Uvedale, Sir Edmond, i, 85
Uxbridge, i, 160, 259
Valence, Westerham, ii, 71, 73
Valentia, the old, i, 18
Valentines, near Ilford, ii, 258
Vashon, Mr., i, 3
Vaughan family, ii, 222
 Mr , of Treslane, ii, 193
Vavasours of Haslewood, i, 174
Venables family, ii, 56
Vender, Bishop, ii. 70
Vernon family, ii, 289
 Mr., of Sudburv, i, 218, 220
Villula, John de, i, 155"
Vine, the, Hampshire, ii, 59
Vipons, Robert, ii, 1 5
Vurnwy, the river, ii, 15
Wadehridge, i, 126, 127
Wakefield, i, 51, 52
Wale, Mr., i, 78
Walker, of Stafford, i, 217
Waller, Sir William, ii, 165
Wallingford, i, 162; ii, 256
Walmer castle, ii, 91, 92
Walsall, i, 222; ii, 286
Walter family, of Danetavil, ii, 33
Waltham abbey, i, 80 ; Cross, ib.; forest,
ib.
Walton on Thames, ii, 261
Walton bridge, ii, 66
 Surrey, ii, 166
 Sir George, ii, 262
Wampul, the river, i, 35
Wanborough, ii, 53, 265
Wandle, the river, ii, 169-171
Wandsworth, ii, 171
Wansdike, ii, 156
Wanstead, i, 80
Wantage, ii, 264
Wapley hill, ii, 220, 222
War castle, i, 15
Warblington castle, ii, 113
Warburton, ii, 9
Ward, Mr., of Squerries, ii, 74
Ward, Bishop of Winchester, ii, 134,
135
Ward, Lord, i, 222, 230
Wardour castle, ii, 45

Ware, i, 79
Wareham, i, 90, 91
Warminster, ii, 38
Warnborough, ii, 160, 161
Warneford family, ii, 261
Warnford, ii, 118
Warren family, of Pointon, i, 212
Warren, Lady Betty, i, 12
Warrington, i, 9, 209
Warrington, Lord, i, 210
Warslow, i, 214
Warsop, i, 68
Warton, Lancashire, ii, 4, 5
Warwick, ii, 239, 281-284
 Cumberland, i, 27
 Earis of, ii, 281-283
 high and low moors, ib.
Waterbrook, ii, 2
Waterfall, Staffordshire, i, 213
Watkins, Mr., of Gethly, ii, 216
Watling Street, ii, 290
Waugh, Chancellor, i, 19
Waverley abbey, ii, 163
Waylam's Stone, ii, 265
Weathercote, i, 196, 197
Weedon, Bucks., i, 165
Weeton, ii, 6
Welbeck, i, 68, 72
Welford, ii, 248
Wellington, Salop, ii, 290
 Somerset, i, 142
Wellow. ii, 32
Wells, Somerset, i, 146, 150-163
Welshpool, ii, 16
Wem, ii, 290, 291
Wendover, i, 160; ii, 241
Wenlock, i, 222
Wenning, the river, i, 44, 46
Wensley, i, 187
Wensleydale, i, 185
Wentwood, ii, 211
Wentworth castle, i, 63-65
 church, i, 65
 family, ib.
¦  — — - house, i, 56
 Mr., of Henbury, i, 90
 Woodhouse, i, 65-68
Weobly, ii, 224
Werrington, i, 127, 132, 133
West Meon, ii, 118
 Thomas, i, 10
 Woodhay, ii, 55
Westbury, ii, 36, 37
^estenhanger, ii, 95

318

INDEX.

Westerham, ii, 70, 170
Westleigh, i, 141
Westminster bridge, ii, 173
Westmorland, Lord, ii, 69
Weston, Berks., ii, 248
 Somerset, ii, 160
 Mr., of West Horsley, ii, 169
Wetherby, i, 176
 Ceiling Hole, near, i, 194
Wetherhall monastery, i, 26
Wetton, i, 213-216
Wever, the river, i, 6, 8, 9
Wey, the river, ii, 163, 165, 169
Weybridge, ii, 66, 260
Weyhill fair, ii, 49
Weymouth, i, 92
Weymouth, Lord, i, 221 ; ii, 39, 42
Whalley abbey, i, 201
Wharfe, the river, i, 48, 49, 54, 175, 191-
193
Wharton, Duke of, i, 162
Wheeler family, of Wootton, i, 217
Whelock, the river, i, 8
Whitchurch, i, 6; ii, 10, 157
White, John and Thomas, i, 169
Whitehaven, i, 9, 15, 16
 Nethera Hall near, i, 3
White Horse, Vale of, ii, 248, 249
White Horse hill, ii, 264, 265
Whitminster, ii, 30
Whittaker, Dr., i, 205
Whittlesea Mere, i, 77
Wickham, Hants, ii, 117
Wickham, Rev, Mr., of York, i, 55
 William of, ii, 120-123
Wickwar, ii, 270
Widcomb, i, 156
Widdicombe, i, 135
Widdrington, Lady, i, 19, 22
Wigan, 1,11, 206,207; ii, 8
Wight, Isle of, i, 83, 129
Wigmore castle and abbey, ii, 220
Wigton, i, 35
Willenhall, ii, 286
Williams, Sir Charles Hanbury, ii, 209,
217
 Sir David, ii, 25
 Sir Hutchin, ii, 109
—  Sir John, ii, 146
Willliamson, Sir Edward, i, 15
Willis, Mr., of North Stoneham, ii, 126 ;
Dr. Browne, ii, 126, 157 ;'Dr. Thomas,
ii, 157
Willoughby, Lord, of Parham, ii, 8

Wilmington, Lord, ii, 102
Wilson, M,r., of Leeds, i, 53
 Dr., Bishop of Man, i, 1, 2
Wilton, ii, 47, 48, 67, 135
Wilton carpets i, 230
Wimbledon, ii, 170, 171, 261
Wimborne Minster, i, 83-86
Wimborne St. Giles, ii, 137
Wimpston, Fortescue family of, i, 106
Wincanton, ii, 160
Winchcomb, ii, 274
Winchelsea, ii, 98-100, 103
 Eari of, i, 76 ; ii, 82
Winchendon, i, 162
Winchester, i, 82; ii, 119-124; cathe
dral, i, 60
 hill. Old, ii, 118
 Marqais of, ii, 159
Windbank hill, i, 192
Windermere, i, 40-42
Windham family, ii, 263
 ¦  ¦ Lord Chancellor, ii, 131
Windsor, Old, ii, 64, 241
Windsor, Lord, ii, 130
Wing, Bucks., i, 166
Wingfield park, i, 28
Winn, Sir Rowland, i, 55, 63
Winnington, Sir Edward, ii, 229
Winsford, i, 8
Winslow, i, 165 ; ii, 241
Winster, the river, ii, 2
Winterslow, ii, 245
Winwick living, i, 209
Wisliart, Dean of Winchester, ii, 121
Witham, ii, 42
Withers, Mr., ii, 158
Withyham, ii. 76
Witley park, ii, 229, 230
Wiveliscombe, i, 142
Woking, ii, 263
Wokingham, ii, 60, 263
Wollaton, i, 168
Wolverdale family, ii, 161
Wolverhampton, i, 222 ; ii, 286
Wood, Mr., architect, i, 4
Wood Speen, ii, 248
Woodbury hill, ii, 229
Woodchester, ii, 270
Woodcot, Surrey, ii, 168
Woodford, i, 80
 Wilts., ii, 136
Woodnesborough, ii, 90
Woodward, Dr., his fossils, i, 77
Wookey Hole, i, 152

INDEX.

319

Woolwich, ii, 68, 69
Wootton Bassett, ii, 54, 251, 266
 Surrey, ii, 167
Worcester park, Surrey, ii, 262
Worcester, battle of, ii, 287
Workington, i, 18
Worksop, i, 68, 71, 168
Worseley, Mr., of Little Sambourne, ii,
125 ; Sir James, i, 82, 83 ; ii, 129; Sir
Robert, ii, 119
Worseleys, of Worseley, i,.205, 206
Worthenbury, ii, 12
Worthington, Mr., of Llanrhaiadr, 1,
239
Worthy, Headbourn, ii, 119
 Maityr, ib. ,
Worting, ii, 158
Wotton Uuderedge, ii, 31
 Sir Thomas, ii, 81
Wragby, i, 63
Wraxall, North, ii, 34
Wrekin, the, i, 230, 231; ii, 290
Wressel castle, i, 170
Wrexham, ii, 292
Wright, Philip, ii, 65
Wrotham, ii, 73
Wrottesley, ii, 287
Wroughton, ii, 54
Wroxeter, i, 232

Wroxton, ii, 239, 240
Wybunbury, i, 6
Wye, Kent, ii, 82, 83
 tho river, ii, 20-23, 30, 213, et seq.
Wyndham family, at Witham, ii, 42
Wynn, Sir W. W., ii, 13
 familv, ii, 14
Wynne, Sir Watkin, i, 233
 Mr., of Doulonmore, i, 236
 Sir John, ii, 176, 176
Wynnstay, ii, 13
Wyvil family, i, 179
Yalding, ii, 77
Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, ii, 130
Yateley, ii, 263
Yeal family, ii, 15
Yealmpton, i, 106
York, i, 55, 60, 61, 63, 67, 168, 172
 Archbishop of, i, 66, 60
 "Duke of, and General Lambert,
i, 106
 Duke of, Richard, cross to, i, 52
Young, Sir William, i, 99
 Mr., of Little Durnford, ii, 135
Zinzendorf, ii, 69
Zion, Mount, ii, 75
Zouch family, ii, 263, 288

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