1 K'^'^S^'
^^l4^^^^^^
YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

From the library of
RUSSELL C. LEFFINGWELL
Yale 1899
The gift of his daughter
MRS. EDWARD PULLING

A
NARRATIVE

OF THE

CAMPAIGNS OF THE BRITISH ARMY
AT
WASHINGTON AND NEW ORLEANS,
UNDER
GENERALS ROSS, PAKENHAM, AND LAMBERT,
IN THE YEARS 1814 AND 1815 ;
WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTPIES VISITED.
BY THE AUTHOR OF " THE SUBALTERN."
SECOND EDITION.

SUPERANDA OMNIS ,FORTUNA FEKENDO EST. — f^irg.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
MDCCCXXVI.

LONDON .'
PRINTED BV S. AND R. BENTLEy^ DORSET STREET.

ADVERTISEMENT.

The following Letters were not the produce
of mere recollection, but were formed from
the substance of a journal kept, with consi
derable care, during the progress of the
events which they record. Some of these
were, indeed, too striking to have been easily
forgotten, as to their general character ; but
for the detail of minute circumstances, which,
it is hoped, will be found to possess some
degree of interest, memory alone would not
have been a secure or sufficient guide. The
introductory and final forms of epistolary
writing have been purposely omitted ; but
for all the particulars, however extraordi
nary, the Author is thus enabled fairly to
pledge his credit. The Letters will, perhaps,
obtain the more attention, as conveying the
first detailed account of this concluding ex
pedition of the war.

A NARRATIVE,
%c. 8sc. 8sc.

LETTER L
H. M. Ship  May 31st, 1814.
Here we are, at anchor in the Garonne, and
waiting for a favourable breeze to prosecute our
voyage. That America is our destination we all
know ; but whether we are to proceed to Canada,
or against some part of the United States, none but
those at the head of affairs can tell. The secret^
however, is one which cannot long be kept, because
a few weeks will bring us so far on our way, as to
enable every man to judge for himself. I shall not,
therefore, weary your patience by idly guessing at
what must so soon be a certainty, but shall rather
endeavour, in the mean time, to amuse you with
an account of our motions since the peace, particu
larly of our march through the southern parts of
Gascony to our present floating quarters.

THE GARON'NE.

As soon as the white flag had been displayed
from the citadel of Bayonne, the customary salutes
fired by the garrison and the besieging army, and
matters so far arranged as to permit a relaxation of
the blockade, the thoughts of all were naturally
employed in speculations as to their future destiny.
This employment, you will perceive, was the
necessary consequence of the want of better. We
saw, that where we were, at least, there was no
longer any occasion for us, and many began to an
ticipate with dismay, the prospect of immediate
reduction. There was, however, one chance left,
and that depended upon the continuance of the
war with America. England, it was argued, is now
at peace with all the world, except this her most
implacable enemy, against whom she has the just-
est cause of irritation ; nor is it at all probable that
she will let slip an opportunity so favourable of se
verely chastising her, for her perfidy and ingratitude.
It was the general opinion, therefore, that a large
proportion of the Peninsular army would be trans
ported to the other side of the Atlantic, that the
war would there be carried on with vigour, and
that no terms of accommodation would be listened
to, except such as a British general should dictate
in the Republican Senate House. It has been often
remarked, and not with greater frequency than
justice, that men are extremely ready to believe
what they wish to be true. A plan of operations

THE GARONNE. 3
therefore, so completely in consonance with the
desire of those who trembled at the prospect of
half-pay, was pronounced, first the most proper,
and then the most likely thing in the world to
be followed up ; and the sole subject of inquiry
soon was, which regiments might expect to be
allotted for this service, and which would return
home. For my own part, I from the first laid my
account with being sent out, because the corps to
which I belong had not suffered so much as many
others in the war which was just closed. Nor, in
the end, did I find myself deceived. There was a
time, indeed, in which I began to waver, and though
my doubts did not continue long in existence, it
is nevertheless proper that I should say where they
originated. You are perhaps aware, that on the conclusion
of an armistice between the French and British
armies, one of the conditions was, that the garrison
of Bayonne should be permitted to forage to the
extent of seven leagues from the town. This of
course occasioned a scarcity of food for the horses,
and it was deemed necessary, in consequence of
that scarcity, to move part of the British force a day's
march towards the rear. Now it had so happened
that, among the rest of our conclusions, we "had
agreed that the troops destined for America would
embark at Bourdeaux, those destined for England at
Passage. Finding ourselves, therefore, proceeding
B 2

4 MAHCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX.
in the' direction of the latter place, and not being
aware of the cause of this movement, we began to
su^ect that we had been premature in numbering
ourselves among those portioned off for the trans
atlantic war. Our hopes, however, or fears, or
perhaps, more properly speaking, a mixture of the
two, did not last long, for we proceeded no further
than a distance of fifteen miles before we halted ;
nor had we continued in that position many days,
when an order arrived for us to retrace our steps,
and to make the best of our way towards Bourdeaux.
. I need not observe that the promulgation of
this order was a full confirmation of our first
opinion ; and that we, who had begun to dream of
the society of fathers, sisters, wives, and friends, now
looked forward with equal, if not greater satisfac
tion, to a renewal of the hardships and enjoyments
of active warfare.
It was on the evening of the fourteenth that
the route was received, and on the following morn
ing, at day break, we commenced our march. The
country through which we moved, had nothing in
itself, unconnected with past events, calculated in
any extraordinary degree to attract attention.
Behind us, indeed, rose the Pyrenees in all their
grandeur, forming, on that side, a noble boundary
to the prospect ; and on our left . was the sea a
boundary different it, is true in kind, but certainly
not less grand and subJ'me. Excepting these two

MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 5
extremities, however, there was nothing in the
landscape on which the eye loved particularly to
rest, because the country, though pretty enough,
has none of that exquisite richness and luxuriance
which I had been led to expect, as characteristic of
the South of France. The houses, too, being all in
a ruinous and dilapidated condition, reminded one
more forcibly of the scenes of violence and outrage
which had been lately acted among them, than of
those ideas of rural contentment and innocence,
which various tales and melo-dramas had taught us
to associate, in our own minds, with the land of the
vine. Regarded, however, in connexion with past
events, the scene was indeed most interesting;
though to a stranger fresh from England, a man,
we will suppose, of retired and peaceful habits, I
can readily imagine that it would have been pro
ductive of much pain ; and that it would have
drawn from him many ejaculations against the
barbarities of war, and the cruelty of men towards
one another. On each side of the road, in what
ever direction we cast our eyes, and as far as our
eyes could reach, we beheld cottages unroofed and
in ruins, chateaux stripped of their doors and win
dows, gardens laid waste, the walls demolished^
and the fruit-trees cut down ; whole plantations
levelled, and vineyards trodden under foot. Here
and there likewise, a redoubt or breast-work pre-
B 3

6 MARCH TOAVARDS 130URDEAUX.
sented itself; while caps, broken firelocks, pieces
of clothing and accoutrements scattered about in
profusion, marked the spots where the strife had
been most determined, and where many a fine fel
low had met his fate. Our journey lay, in short,
over a field of battle, so that the houses were not
only thoroughly gutted, (to use a vulgar but most
expressive phrase,) but for the most part were ridr
died with cannon-shot. Round some of the largest,
indeed, there was not a wall nor a tree which did
not present evident proofs of its having been con
verted into a temporary place of defence, while
the deep ruts, in what had once been lawns and
flower-gardens, showed, that even their beauty did
not protect them from being destroyed by the rude
passage of heavy artillery.
Immediately beyond the village of Bedart, such
spectacles were particularly frequent. It was here,
you will recollect, that in the month of December
last there was fighting for four days together;
and I do assure you, that the number of Uttle hil
locks within our view, from under most of which
legs and arms were peeping up, as well as the
other objects which I have attempted to describe,
sufficiently attested the obstinacy with which the
fighting had been maintained.
I repeat, that in the bosom of a man of peace,
it is very conceivable that all this would have
excited feelings exceedingly painful ; in ours, how-

MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 7
ever, such feelings were overborne by others much
more powerful. If we gazed with peculiar in
terest upon one hovel more than another, it was
because some of us had there maintained ourselves ;
if we endeavoured to count the number of shot-
holes in any wall, or the breaks in any hedge, it
was because we had stood behind them, when " the
iron hail " fell thick and fast around us. Our
thoughts, in short, had more of exultation in them
than sorrow; for though now and then, when the
name of a fallen comrade was mentioned, it was
accompanied with a " Poor fellow !" the conversa
tion soon returned again to the exploits and hair
breadth escapes of the survivors. On the whole,
therefore, our march was one of deep interest and
high excitement, feelings which did not entirely
evaporate when we halted, about two hours after
noon, at the village of Anglet.
As I am well aware, from experience, that persons
who live quietly at home can form no correct
notions of the state of a country which is, or has
lately been, the seat of war, I am incUned to flatter
myself that you will pardon the tediousness of the
above detail ; and I am likewise wiUing to persuade
myself, that a little further continuance of such
matters will not be unacceptable. The environs
of a beleaguered town, in particular, are very dif
ficult to be conceived without having been seen.
It is true that every one understands, or believes
B 4

O MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX-
that he understands, what is meant by trenches,
lines of circumvallation, and so forth, but these,
after all, are no more than general terms, incapable
of affording real information to any except a mili-
taiy reader. In attempting, therefore, to give you
some idea of the aspect of things, in the immediate
neighbourhood of Bayonne, I shall not pretend to
draw a plan, in words, of the city itself, with its
defences and out-works ; nor yet of the several
posts occupied by the different divisions of the be
sieging army. For all this I refer you to the pubUc
prints, where you will find it much better told,
than, with my opportunities of observation, I could
possibly tell it. I would rather describe to you
the condition of a single hamlet, minutely and par
ticularly; because it is exactly in such minute
particulars that you must be least informed.
For this pur^se, I will take the village of
Anglet, the place where we this day pitched our
tents, and which, during the continuance of hosti
lities, was a post of vital importance. It is distant
about a mile and a half, or two miles from the ad
vanced works of Bayonne, and stands upon the
high road froiji Madrid to Paris, which runs through
the middle of that city. Along this road all the
supplies for the left of our army were brought up,
consequently a sally made in this direction, and
with success, might have been productive, to us of
much mischief. To guard against such an occur-

MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 9
rence, due care was bestowed upon fortifyiug and
strengthening the post. About one hundred yards
in front of the village, felled trees were thrown
across the road with their branches towards the
town, forming what we call an abattis. Forty or
fifty yards in rear of this, a ditch was dug, and
a breast-work thrown up, behind which a party
might securely stand and do great execution with
their fire, upon any body of men struggling to force
their way through the thick branches. On each side
of the road, again, where the ground gradually
rises into little eminences, were erected redoubts
and batteries, from which a heavy flanking fire
might be kept up ; whilst every house in the vil
lage itself, which, by the way, are built in a
straggling manner, and at considerable distances
from one another, was loop-holed, and converted
into a temporary fortress ; the church, in parti
cular, being on higher ground than the other
buildings, was completely metamorphosed, from a
mansion of peace, into a little citadel. Strong
palings, called in military phraseology, stockades,
were driven into the ground round the church-yard,
from openings in which some pieces of light artil
lery showed themselves. The walls of the edifice
itself were strengthened by an embankment of
earth to the height of four or five feet, above
which narrow openings were made, in order to
give its defenders an opportunity of levelling their

10 MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX.
muskets ; whilst within, the pulpit was filled with
barrels of gunpowder, and the space enclosed by
the rails of the altar, used as a magazine for shot
and shells.
I have been thus minute in my description of
Anglet, because what I have said of it will apply
equally well to every village, hamlet, or cluster of
houses, within the compass of what are called the
lines. On this side, you will perceive, there was
no intention of making a breach, or of storming the
place ; nor, indeed, would it have been advisable
to attempt it, excepting in one point, and that on
the opposite side of the town. The sole object of
these preparations, therefore, was to keep the
enemy within their works, and to cut them off from
all communication with the surrounding country.
But where troops are every moment in danger of
being attacked, as must be the case with all besieg
ing armies, the slightest cover and the most trifling
defence is of importance. You may, therefore,
figure to yourself what appearance a country must
present, which, to the extent of fifteen or twenty
miles round, is thus treated ; where every cottage
is fortifie^l, the most valuable timber cut down to
form abattis, every eminence crowned with more
regular works, and every place swarming with
armed men. Such was its aspect during the day,
whilst at night it exhibited a spectacle not less
striking. Then, in whatever direction you might

MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 11
turn your eyes, they would be sure to rest upon
parts of a huge circle of fires ; and if you chanced
to be standing behind one of them, you might wit
ness chairs, tables, bedsteads, or any other pieces of
household furniture which lay nearest at hand,
thrown on, with aU the indifference in the world, to
increase the blaze.
The condition of the inhabitants of this district
was, as you may suppose, exceedingly wretched.
Most of them, indeed, had fled on the advance of
the British, and left their houses and effects to the
conquerors ; some, however, remained, and though
they were certainly treated with all the humanity
possible, under such circumstances, it must be con
fessed that their sufferings were great. In the
first place they were necessaril)'^ deprived of all the
comforts of home ; their houses were filled with
soldiers, and if one little apartment were assigned
to the whole family, they might consider them
selves as extremely fortunate. In the next place
they were compelled to witness the destruction of
their property, and to bear with patience many
insults from the common soldiers. I need not say
that no British officer was ever guilty of insulting
them, and that, whenever a complaint was made of
one of the privates, the matter was fully examined
into, and if the story was found to be correct, the
soldier was instantly punished. But I beheve that
they put up with many injuries rather than com-

12 MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX.
plain, through a dread of the consequences which
might result, from the anger and revenge of the
man whom they should bring to punishment.
Besides these two inconveniences, they must
have lived in a constant state of terror and alarm.
In case of a successful sortie from the town, they
knew that they would be put to death by their own
countrymen, for remaining in their houses to receive
the English; whilst upon their present protectors
they could not rest implicit confidence, seeing
that they were bound to them by no ties of alliance
or kindred. They could never, then, be free from
apprehension, of some sort or other, nor is it easy
to imagine any feeling more distressing than that
of continual dread. It is true that no article of
food was taken from them, without their receiving
in lieu of it considerably more than its full value ;
and it is likewise true that when they became
better acquainted with the intruders, they were
frequently invited to partake of the soldier's messes ;
but these were trifling advantages, and by no
means sufficient to compensate for the mischiefs
by which they were accompanied.
I am not one of those who love to evince their
sensibility by mourning over unavoidable evils;
neither, indeed, would it be consistent with my
present views and profession so to do ; but in truth
I cannot help observing, that war, when stripped
of its parade and excitement, and softened down

MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX. 13
by all the alleviating circumstances of which it is
capable, is a fearful thing. One experiences no
regret at seeing the most splendid mansion con
sumed to ashes, provided it be set on fire by our
own shells, and to dislodge the enemy ; one has
no reluctance in treading down corn-fields, destroy
ing orchards, and ruining in one day the labour of
months, as long as the hurry and madness of a
battle continue. But when this has died away, and
the calmness of repose returns, he who can look
with indifference upon the ravages which he has
himself contributed to produce, must be either
more or less than man. I beg, however, that you
will not take fright, or imagine that I am going
into a strain of prosing. Nature has not gifted
me with any great turn that way, and if she
had, I at present want the inclination to exercise
it. One only remark, however, I beg -leave to
make, a remark which has been often made by
much wiser men, that old England, if she were but
properly aware of it, has more cause of sincere
thankfulness than any nation in Europe. It is true
that our countrymen have suffered, and are still
suffering in their purses ; and it is unquestionable,
that to part with our money, and to deny ourselves
luxuries to which we have all our Uves been accus
tomed, are, in themselves, no slight grievances.
But if they whd;complain so bitterly of taxation,
could but experience for a short time the real

14 MARCH TOWARDS BOURDEAUX.
misery of having a war brought home to their own
doors, I am mistaken if they would not desire to
buy it away again, at double the price of the pre
sent burthens. Depend upon it, that all your
grumblers are men devoid either of reflexion or prin
ciple; in which of the two they are deficient, I leave
you to judge.
But I find that, in spite of my promise to the
contrary, I am actually getting into a moralizing
strain as fast as I can. To prevent its continuance
I shall here break off, promising to renew my jour
nal, with more facts and fewer observations, in my
next letter.

BAYONNE. 15

LETTER IL
June 31st, 1814.
As soon as the bustle of encamping was over, and
my time absolutely at my own disposal, I took
advantage of an offered passport, and proceeded
into Bayonne. You will readily believe that I
entered this city with feelings very different from
those of a common traveller. Having lain before it
as a besieger for upwards of two months, its shops,
its trade, its public buildings and places of amuse
ment, were to me objects of, comparatively speaking,
little interest or curiosity. Its fortifications and
means of defence were, in truth, what I was princi
pally anxious to examine. Hitherto I could judge
of them only from outward appearances and vague
reports ; and now that an opportunity was offered
of so doing with greater accuracy, I confess that
my inclination prompted me to embrace that oppor
tunity, rather than to hunt for pictures which I
could not value, or fatigue my imagination by en
deavouring to discover fine specimens of architec
ture, amid heavy and ill-built churches.
But I have already pledged myself, nor do I mean
to withdraw that pledge, to attempt no military
description of this important city. To do so with

16 BAYONNE.
exactness, and at the same time to render the de
scription intelligible, and what is still more difficult,
interesting, to a man of peace, is a task to which I
acknowledge myself incompetent. Yet to pass it
by with the observation that it was as strong as
the nature of the ground, and the labour of man
could make it, is not, I am incUned to believe,
what you would desire. I shall therefore endea
vour to steer a middle course, by giving you
something like a general idea of the whole, avoid
ing, at the same tirtie, as much as possible, all
technical terms, and prolix details.
The city of Bayonne stands, as every body knows,
upon the Adour, about six or eight miles from the
point where that river falls into the sea. On the
southern or Spanish bank, where the whole of the
city, properly so called, is built, the country, to the
distance, of two or three miles from the walls, is
perfectly flat, and the soil sandy, and apparently not
very productive. On the opposite bank the ground
rises rather abruptly from the brink of the stream,
sloping upwards likewise from the sea, till you arrive
at the pinnacle upon which the citadel is erected, and
which hangs immediately over the town. Thus,
though the Adour in fact separates the city from
the suburbs and citadel, yet as the ramparts of the
former extend to the water's edge on both sides
and as those of the latter continue the sweep from
points immediately opposite, the general appear-

BAYONNE. 17
ance presented is, that of one considerable town, with
a broad river flowing through the middle of it.
You will perceive, even from this short and im
perfect sketch, that its very situation gives to
Bayonne a superiority over most cities ; inasmuch
as it affords peculiar facilities towards rendering it
a place of great strength. On one side there is a
plain, always accounted by engineers the most
convenient for the construction of fortifications I
on the other an eminence, lofty enough to com
mand the surrounding country, and at the same
time sufficiently level at the summit to receive the
walls of the fortress, powerful at once from its posi
tion and regularity. But the great strength of
Bayonne is owing, not more to its original defences
than to the numerous out-works which have lately
been added to it. It was along the course of the
Adour, you will remember, or rather between the
Adour and the Nieve, that Soult formed his famous
intrenched camp. The right of this chain of stu
pendous works rested upon the city, the importance
of which was consequently much increased ; and
as the capture of it would have occasioned, not
only the loss of a town, but the turning of the
whole position, no pains were spared in rendering
it as nearly impregnable as possible. To give you
some notion of the nature of these works, I will
describe the aspect which they presented to myself,
as I rode from Anglet towards the city. When

BAYONNE.

I had proceeded about a mile and a half beyond
our advanced posts, I found myself in front of the
first line of defence. This consisted of a battery
mounting three eighteen pounders, upon the road,
flanked by others on each side ; so placed as that
whichsoever of them should be attacked, it would be
defended by a cross fire from all the rest. These
were, of course, additionally strengthened by«
ditches, and felled trees ; but they were open in
the rear ; and though very formidable to an assail
ing party, yet, when taken, could have been of
small service to the conquerors, being themselves
exposed to the fire of the second line. The situa
tion of this second line again, was similar in every
respect to that of the first, being like it, open in the
rear, and placed under the guns of the town. Thus
after having forced two powerful lines of defence,
the besiegers would find themselves almost as far
as ever from the attainment of their object, being
then only arrived at the point, where the labours of
a siege could commence.
But the maintenance of Bayonne altogether de
pends upon keeping possession of the citadel. As
the city lies upon a plain, and that fort stands
, upon an eminence immediately above it, it is clear
that were this taken, Bayonne must either surrender,
or be speedily reduced to ruins. It is true that, by
destroying the bridge which connects them, all
communication between the two places would be

BAYONNE. 19 •
cut off; but the distance from the one to the other
being not more than half-musket shot, and the
guns of the fort pointing directly down upon the
streets and houses of the city, any attempt to hold
out could cause only the destruction of the town,
and the unavenged slaughter of its garrison. Of
the truth of this the French were, of course, as much
aware as their .enemies, nor did they neglect any
means which an accurate knowledge of engineer
ing could point out, for the defence of what they
justly considered as the key of the entire position.
In addition to its own very regular and well con
structed fortifications, two strong redoubts were
thrown up, on two sides of the fort, upon the only
spots of ground calculated for the purpose ; both of
which, I was informed by my guide, were under
mined and loaded with gunpowder, ready to be
sprung as soon as theyshould fall into our hands.
They had judged, and judged correctly, that if
ever the place should be invested, it would be
here that the trenches would be opened, and the
breaching batteries erected ; and they consequent
ly made every preparation to meet the danger,
which great prudence and military skill could
suggest. Bayonne, though a populous place, does not
cover so much ground as one would be led to sup
pose. Like most walled towns, its streets, with
the exception of one or two, are in general narrow,
c 2

20 BAYONNE.
and the houses lofty ; but it is compact, and, on the
whole, clean and neatly built. The number of in
habitants, I should be inclined to estimate at
somewhere about thirty thousand, exclusive of the
garrison, which at this time amounted to fourteen
or fifteen thousand men ; but as most of the fami
lies appear to live in the style of those in the old
town of Edinburgh, that is to say, several under
the same roof, though each in a separate story, or
flat, it is not difficult to conceive how they contrive
to find sufficient room, within a compass apparently
so narrow. Of its commerce and manufactures I
can say little, except that I should not imagine either
to be extensive. I am led to form this opinion,
partly from having seen no shipping at the wharfs,
and partly because the Adour, though here both
wide and deep, is rendered unnavigable to vessels
of any size, by a shallow, or bar at its mouth.
There was, indeed, a sloop of war close to the town,
but how it got there I am at a loss to conceive,
unless it were built upon the river, and constantly
kept there, as an additional protection against a sur
prise from the water. The shops are, however, good,
particularly those where jewellery is sold ; an article
in the setting and adorning of which the French,
if they do not exceed us in really substantial value,
undoubtedly surpass us in elegance.
When I had taken as complete a survey of the
town as I felt disposed to take, I crossed the bridge

ST. ETIENNE. 21
with the intention of inspecting the interior of the
citadel. Here, however, I was disappointed, no
strangers being admitted within its gates ; but as
there was no objection made to my reconnoitering
It from without, I proceeded towards the point
where our trenches had been dug, and where it had
been designed to breach and storm the place. To
this I was urged by two motives, partly from the
desire of obtaining the best view possible of the
fort, and partly that I might examine the ground
upon which the desperate affair of the 14th of
April took place. You will recollect, that some
hours before day-light in the morning of that day,
a vigorous and well arranged sortie was made by
the garrison, and that it was not without hard
fighting and a severe loss on both sides, that they
were finally repulsed.
Mounting the heights, therefore, I soon arrived at
St. Etienne, a little village nearly on a level with
the citadel, and not more than half a mile from its
walls. From this point I could satisfy my curiosity
to the full, and as the account may not, perhaps, be
uninteresting, I shall describe as well as I am able,
the scene v/hich here met my eyes.
The ridge of little hills upon which the fort and
village are built, though it rises by gentle grada
tion from the sea, towards the spot where I now
stood, is nevertheless interrupted and broken here
and there with deep glens or ravines. Two of these
c 3

22 ST. ETlENNE.
glens, one to the right, the other to the left, chance
to occur immediately under the ramparts of the
fortress, supplying, in some measure, the purposes
of a ditch, and leaving a sort of table or elevated
neck of land between them, the extremity of which
is occupied by the village. On this neck of land
the besieged had constructed one of the redoubts
which I mentioned as having been lately thrown
up, whilst on another table, at the opposite side of
the left ravine, which winds round in the direction
of the wall, as nearly as if it were the work of art,
stands the other redoubt. Beyond this again, there
is a perpendicular precipice, the hills there abruptly
ending ; so that on two sides the walls of the fort
skirt the extremity of a bare rock. It was along
the outer ridges of these ravines, and through the
church-yard of St. Etienne, that our trenches were
drawn, the village itself being the most advanced
British post ; and it was along these ridges, and in
the street of this village, that the action of the 14th
of April was fought.
It is not my business, neither indeed is it my in
tention, to relate the particulars of that affair.
The French, you will remember, having contrived,
in a dark night, to elude the vigilance of our sen
tinels, came upon the pickets unperceived, and
took them completely by surprise. The battle was
maintained on both sides with great determination,
and had it not been for the unfortunate capture of

ST, ETIENNE. 23
Sir John Hope, and the fall of General Hay, the
assailants would have had little cause to rejoice at
the result : for though the loss of the Enghsh was
certainly great, that of the French was at least not
inferior. Yet the business was an unfortunate one
to both parties, since before it took place, Buona
parte had already abdicated, and the preUminaries
of peace were already signed between the two
nations. I found the village, in which the fighting had
been most obstinately maintained, in the condition
of most villages where such dramas have been acted.
The street had been barricaded, but the barricade
was almost entirely torn down ; the houses, trees,
and church, like those we had passed upon the
march, Avere covered with the marks of cannon
and musket-balls, whilst quantities of round and
grape shot, of musket and pistol bullets, broken
bayonets, swords, &;c. &c., lay scattered about in
every direction. Nor were these the only evidences
of strife discernible. In many places, — on the
pavement of the street, in the church-yard, but
above all, on the floor of the church itself, — the
traces of blood were still distinctly visible. Beside
the remains of the barricade, there stood a solitary
six-pounder, which had been taken and re-taken
nine times during the struggle ; and I assure you
that a sprinkling of what looked like a mixture of
blood and brains upon its carriage and breech,
c 4

24 MARCH .THROUGH BAYONNE.
showed that it had never been given up without the
most desperate resistance. The mounds, too, under
which the dead were buried, presented a peculiarly
striking appearance, for the field of action having
been narrow, those that fell, fell in heaps together,
and being buried in the same way, one was led to
form an idea of greater slaughter, than if double the
number of graves had been distinguishable in a
more extended space.
Having now accomplished my wishes as far as I
could, and beginning to feel somewhat fatigued
with strolling about, I adjourned to an hotel in the
city, from whence, in the evening, I went to the
play. The house was poor, and the performance
miserable, consequently there was no great induce
ment to sit out the whole of the ,piece. After
wdtnessing an act or two, therefore, , I returned to
the inn, where I slept, and at an early hour next
morning, rejoined my regiment, already under arms
and making preparations for the continuance of
the march.
As it would have been considerably out of our
way to go round by the floating bridge,* permis-

* The bridge here alluded to was thrown acro;s the Adour by
Lord Welhngton, at the commencement of the siege. It was com
posed of a number of small fishing vessels fastened together with
cords, and planked from one to another, the whole firmly moored
about three miles below Bayonne. Whether the darinynessof the

MARCH TO ONDRES. 25
sion was apphed for and granted, to pass directly
through Bayonne. With bayonets fixed, there
fore, band playing, and colours flying, we marched
along the streets of that city ; a large proportion of
the garrison being drawn up to receive us, and the
windows crowded with spectators, male and female,
eager to behold the troops from whom, not long
ago, they probably had expected a visit of a very dif
ferent nature. The scene was certainly remarkable
enough, and the transition from animosity to good
will, as singular as it was sudden ; nor do I imagine
that it would be easy to define the sensations of
either party, on being thus strangely brought in
contact with the other. The females, indeed,
waved their handkerchiefs, whilst we bowed and
kissed our hands ; but I thought I could discover
something like a suppressed scowl, upon the coun
tenances of the military. Certain it is, that in
whatever light the new state of affairs may be re
garded by the great bulk of the nation, with the
army it is by no means popular ; and, at this time they
appeared to consider the passage of British troops
through their lines, as the triumphal entrance of a
victorious enemy.
As soon as we had cleared the entrenchments of
Bayonne, and got beyond the limits of the allied
attempt, or the difficulties surmounted in its completion, be con
sidered, the construction of this bridge may be looked upon as
one of the most extraordinary actions of that extraordinary man-

26 MARCH TO ONDRES.
camps, we found ourselves in a country more peace
ful and more picturesque, than any we had yet
met with. There were here no signs of war, or
marks of violence. The cottages were covered
with honeysuckle and roses ; the gardens were
blooming in the most perfect order ; the corn was
growing in great plenty and richness, and the vines
were clustering round their poles like the hops in
the gardens in Kent. It is impossible . to describe
the feeling of absolute refreshment, which such a
sight stirred up in one who, for so long a time, had
looked upon nothing but ruin and devastation.
It is true that with respect to grandeur, or even
beauty, the scenery through which I now travel
led was not to be compared with the sublime passes
of the Pyrenees, or Avith many other spots which
I had beheld ; but I confess that an hamlet unin
jured and tenanted by its own rude peasantry, a
field of Indian corn exhibiting no v/asteful track of
foragers, nay a single cottage with its flowers and
ever-greens budding around it, was at this time a
more welcome object to my eyes, than the wildest
mountains, or most romantic valley, displaying no
habitations except white tents, and no inhabitants
except soldiers. I felt, in short, as if I had once
more returned into the bosom of civilized and do
mestic life, after having been for many months a
wanderer and a savage.
The road along which we proceeded had been

MARCH TO ONDRES. 27
made by Napoleon, and was remarkably good. It
was sheltered, on each side, from the rays of the
sun, by groves of cork trees mingled with fir ; by
which means, though the day was overpoweringly
hot, we did not suffer so much as we should other
wise have done. Our march was, therefore,
exceedingly agreeable, and we came in, about
noon, very little fatigued to the village of Ondres,
where the tents were pitched, and Ave remained till
the morrow.

28 MARCH TO BOURDEAUX.

LETTER III.
The dawn was just beginning to appear, when the
bugles sounded, and the tents were struck. For the
first few leagues, our route to-day resembled that
of yesterday, in almost every particular. There Avas
the same appearance of peaceful quiet, the same
delightful intermingling of woods, corn-fields,
vineyards, and pasture ; but we had not proceeded
far, Avhen a marked difference was perceptible ;
every step we trod, the soil became more and more
sandy, the cultivation less frequent, and the wood
more abundant, till at last we found ourselves
marching through the heart of an immense forest
of pines. We had diverged, it appeared, from the
main road, which carries the traveller through a
rich and open country, and were pursuing another
through the middle of those deserts and savannahs
which lie towards the coast, a district known by the
name of les Landes. There was something, if not
beautiful, at least new and striking, in the scenery
noAv around us. Wherever the eye turned, it Avas met
by one wide waste of gloomy pine-trees ; diversi
fied, now and then, by the unexpected appearance
of a modest hamlet, which looked a$ if it were the

LES LANDES. 29
abode of some newly arrived settlers, in a country
hitherto devoid of human habitations.
Were I to continue the detail of a long march
through these barren regions, I should soon fatigue,
without amusing you ; I shall therefore content
myself with observing, that day after day the same
dreary prospect presented itself, varied by the oc
casional occurrence of huge uncultivated plains,
which apparently chequer the forest, at certain
intervals, with spots of stunted and unprofitable
pasturage ; upon these there were usually flocks of
sheep grazing, in the mode of watching which,
the peasants fully evinced the truth of the old pro
verb, that necessity is the mother of invention.
I do not know whether the practice to which I
allude be generally known, but as it struck me
as very remarkable, I shall offer no apology for
relating it.
You must observe, that the whole of this dis
trict is a perfect flat, containing scarcely a knoll or
eminence of any sort, as far as the eye can reach.
In addition to this, the vast plains where the sheep
are fed, many of which extend two or three leagues
in every direction, produce not so much as a fir
tree, by climbing which, a man might see to any of
its extremities : and the consequence is, that the
shepherds are constantly in danger of losing their
sheep, as one loses sight of a vessel at sea, in the
distance. To remedy this evil, they have fallen

30 MARCH TO BOURDEAUX.
upon a plan not more simple than ingenious ; they
all walk upon stilts, exactly similar to those with
which our school-boys amuse themselves ; the only
difference is, that whereas the school-boys' stilts
are seldom raised above ten or tAvelve inches from
the ground, those of the French peasants are ele
vated to the height of six or eight feet.
When we first caught a glimpse of these figures,
it was in the dusk of the morning ; for a while, we
were willing to persuade ourselves that the haze
had deceived us, by seeming to enlarge bodies be
yond their real dimensions ; but when we looked
at the trees, Ave saw them in their own proper size,
nor could we suppose that the atmosphere would
have effect upon one object, which it had not upon
another ; yet there appeared to be no other way of
accounting for the phenomenon, unless indeed this
wild country Avas the parent of a race of giants, for
the men whom we saw resembled moving towers
rather than mortals. I need not observe that our as
tonishment was very great ; nor in fact was it much
diminished when, on a nearer approach, we disco
vered the truth, and witnessed the agility with
which they moved, and the ease Avith which they
would stoop to the ground, pick up the smallest
article, and stand upright again. But if we admired
the skill of one or two individuals, our admiration
rose to a still higher pitch, when we saw crowds of
them together, all equ^y skilful; till they in-

LES LANDES. 31
formed us that the thing was not an amusement,
but universally practised for the purpose I have
stated. Besides this, I know nothing in the customs of
this isolated people at all worthy of notice, unless,
indeed, it be their method of supplying themselves
with lights. Being completely cut off from the
rest of the world, it is not in their power, except
when once or twice a year they travel to the nearest
towns with their wool, to purchase candles : and,
as they have no notion how these can be made,
they substitute in their room a lamp fed with the
turpentine extracted from the fir trees. The whole
process is simple and primitive : to obtain the tur
pentine, they cut a hole in the tree, and fasten a
dish in it to catch the sap as it oozes through ; and
as soon as the dish is filled, they put a wick of
cotton into the midst of the liquor, and burn it as
we do a lamp ; the light, indeed, is not of the most
briUiant nature, but it is at least better than none ;
and, as they have fir trees in abundance within their
reach, there is no danger of their oil being quickly
exhausted. But I begin to apprehend, that if these minute
details continue much longer, you will be as much
tired in perusing the account of this march, as I
was in its performance. Permit me, then, to hurry
over the following week, during the whole course
of which the same scenery and adventures occurred ;

32 MARCH TO BOURDEAUX.
and to carry you forward to the morning of the
twenty-third, when at last we began to emerge
from the forests, and to find ourselves once again
in a more open country. At first, however, it
cannot be said that, with respect to beauty, the
change was greatly for the better. Upon the bor
ders of the deserts, there is a little village called
Le Barp, where we spent the night of the twenty-
second ; from whence, till you arrive at a place
called Belle-Vue, the country is exactly in that
state which land assumes when nature has begun
to lose ground, and art to gain it — when the AA^ld
simplicity of the one is destroyed, and the rich
luxuriance of the other has not yet been super
induced. So far, therefore, we proceeded, regret
ting, rather than rejoicing that we had quitted
the woods ; but no sooner had we attained that
point, than there burst upon us, all on a sudden, a
prospect as gloriously fertile as ever delighted the
eyes of a weary traveller.
Instead of boundless forests of pine, the whole
face of the country was now covered with vine
yards, interspersed, in the most exquisite and taste
ful manner, with corn-fields and meadows of the
richest pasturage. Nor was there any deficiency
of timber ; a well-wooded chateau, with its lawn
and plantations, here and there presenting itself,
while quiet hamlets and solitary cottages, scat
tered in great abundance over the scene, gave

BOURDEAUX. 33
to it an appearance of life and prosperity, exceed
ingly bewitching. Had there been but the addition
of a fine river flowing through the midst of it, and
had the ground been somewhat more broken into
hill and dale, I should have pronounced it the most
enchanting prospect of the kind I had ever be
held ; but, unfortunately, both these were Avanting.
Though the effect of a first view, therefore, was
striking and deUghtful, and though to the last one
could not help acknowledging the richness of the
land and its high state of cultivation, its beauty
soon began to paU. The fact is, that an immense
plain, however adorned by the labour of man, is
not an object upon which it is pleasing to gaze for
any length of time ; the eye becomes wearied with
the extent of its OAvn stretch, and as there is no
boundary but the horizon, the imagination is left
to picture a continuance of the same plain, till it
becomes as tired of fancying as the eye is of looking.
Besides, we were not long in discovering that the
vineyards were unworthy to be compared, in point
of luxuriant appearance, with those of Spain and
the more southern regions of France. In this
neighbourhood, the vine is not permitted to grow
to a greater height than three or four feet from the
ground ; whereas in Spain, and on the borders, it
climbs, like the hop-plant in England, to the top
of high poles, and hangs over from one row to
another, in the most graceful festoons. In spite of
D

34 BOURDEAUX.
these objections, however, no one could do otherwise
than admit, that the change we had experienced was
agreeable, and Ave continued to move on with greater,
alacrity, tiU it was evident, from the -increasing
number of seats and viUas, that we were rapidly
approaching the vicinity of Bourdeaux.
Nor was it long before the towers and buildings
of that magnificent city began to be discernible in
the distance. Prompted by I know not what im
pulse, we almost involuntarily quickened our pace
at the sight, and in a short time reached the sub
urbs, which, like those of most French toAvns, are
composed of low houses, inhabited by the poorest
and meanest of the people. Here we halted for a
few minutes to refresh the men, when having again
resumed the line of march, we advanced under a
magnificent triumphal arch, originally erected in
honour of Napoleon, but now inscribed with the
name of the Duke D'Angouleme, and ornamented
with garlands of flowers. Passing under this, we
proceeded along one or two handsome streets, till
we reached the Military Hospital, a large and com
modious structure, fitted up for the reception of
several thousands of sick, where it was arranged
that we should spend the night.
The city of Bourdeaux has been too often de
scribed, and is too well known to you and to the rest
of my countrymen, to render any particular accouflt
of it at all necessary from me ; and were the case

BOURDEAUX. 35
even otherwise, I confess that my opportunities of
examining it were not sufficient to authorize my
entering upon such an attempt. The whole extent
of our sojourn, was only during the remainder of
that day (and it was past noon before we got in)
and the ensuing night ; a space of time which ad
mitted of no more than a hurried stroll through
some of the principal streets, and a hasty visit to
such public buildings as are considered most
worthy of attention. The palace of the Duke
D'Angouleme, the Military Hospital, the Theatre,
and the Cathedral, are all remarkably fine of their
kind 4 while the public gardens, the Exchange,
and fashionable promenades, are inferior only to
those of Paris itself.
But, perhaps, you will be inclined to think, that
had my opportunities been ever so great, and my
talent for description ever so lively, I might on the
present occasion be spared the proof of the one,
and the exhibition of the other ; nay, it is very pro
bable, that you will not read even thus far, without
being disposed to remind me, that my journal was
promised to be one, not of a progress through the
South of France, but of the campaigns in America.
Let me conclude, then, that you will be satisfied
to consult some other tourist, for a complete de
scription of this metropolis of the southern pro
vinces, and in the mean time to follow me, whilst
I endeavour, in as few words as possible, to run
D 2

36 MACAU.
over a detail of the remainder of our journey
towards the shipping.
At an early hour next morning, we were again
in motion, and proceeded to an extensive common,
near the village of Macau, about three leagues from
Bourdeaux, where we found a considerable force
already assembled. Judging from the number of
tents upon the heath, I conceive that there could
not be fewer than eight or ten thousand men, the
whole of whom we naturally concluded were
destined for the same service with ourselves. The
sight was at once pleasing and encouraging,
because there could be no doubt that such a
power, ably commanded, would carry every thing
before it.
In this situation we continued, without the
occurrence of any incident deserving of notice,
till the 2l7th, when an order arrived for the
officers to dispose of their horses without delay.
This, as you may suppose, was done at an enor
mous loss ; and, on the morning of the 28th,
we set forward towards the point of embarka
tion. But, alas! in the numbers allotted for the
trans-atlantic war, we found ourselves grievously
disappointed; since, instead of the whole division,
only two regiments, neither of them very strong,
were directed to move ; it was not our business,
however, to question the wisdom of any measure
adopted by our superiors, and we accordingly

LA MOE. 37
marched on in as high spirits, as if we had been
foUoAved by the entire Peninsular army.
The remainder of our journey occupied two
days, nor do I ever remember to have spent a si
milar space of time with greater satisfaction ; our
route lay through some of the most fertile districts
in France, passing Chateau Margaux, famous for its
wine, with other places not inferior to it either in
richness of soil, or in beauty of prospect. The
weather was delightful, and the grapes, though
not yet ripe, were hanging in heavy bunches
from the vines, giving promise of much wealth
to come ; the hay season had commenced, and
numerous groups of happy-looking peasants were
busy in every field ; in short, it was a march
upon which I shall never look back without
pleasure. The close of the first day's progress brought us
to a village called La Moe, beautifully situated
within view of the majestic waters of the Garonne.
Here, for the first time since we quitted Bayonne,
were we quartered upon the inhabitants ; a measure
which the loss of our tents rendered necessar3^
They received us with so much frankness, and
treated us with so much civiUty, I had almost said
kindness, that it was not without a feeling of some
thing like regret, that we parted from them. The
second day carried us to PauUac, an inconsiderable
town upon the banks of the same river, where we
D 3

38 AT SEA.
found boats ready to convey us to the shipping,
which lay at anchor to receive us.
To embark the troops in these boats, and to
huddle them on board two dirty little transports,
occupied some time, and the provoking part of the
business was, that all this trouble was to be gone
through again. The men of war, in which we
were to cross the Atlantic, could not come up so
high, for want of water; and on this account it
was that these transports were sent as passage boats
to carry us to them. The wind however was foul,
and blew so strong, that the masters would not
venture to hoist a sail ; consequently we were
obliged to endure the misery of a crowd in a small
vessel for two nights and a day ; nor was it tiU
past noon on the 3 1st, that we Avere finally settled
in His Majesty's ship  of 64 guns.
Having now arrived at the point from whence,
perhaps, I ought more properly to have set out,
I am unwilling to occupy your time by compa
risons between the Garonne and the Thames, or
even by an account of the scenery visible from the
deck of the ship, i would rather enter at once into
my proper subject, by detailing the particulars of
the force, both military and naval, which composes
this expedition ; but, as my letter has already
swelled to rather an uncommon bulk, I shall defer
this relation till another opportunity, which I am
not likely to be without during the idleness and
taedium of a long voyage.

39

LETTER IV.
In the leisure which I anticipated during the
voyage, I have not been disappointed ; nor do I
conceive that it can be better occupied than in ful
filling the promise made in my last, of describing
to you the nature and number of the force em
ployed upon the present expedition ; as well as in
relating some of the most interesting events which
have occurred during our progress towards the
place of our destination.
The land army, then, is composed of three bat-
tahons of infantry, the 4th, 44th, and 85th regi
ments ; the two former mustering each about eight
hundred bayonets, the last not more than six hun
dred. In addition to these, there are two officers
of engineers, a brigade of artillery, a detachment
of sappers and miners, a parfey of artillery drivers,
witli "a due proportion of officers belonging to the
Medical and Commissariat departments. The whole
together cannot be computed at more than two
thousand five hundred men, if indeed it amounts
to so great a number; and is under the command
of Major General Ross, a very gallant and expe
rienced leader.
D 4

40 AT SEA.
The fleet, again, consists of the Royal Oak, of
74 guns, bearing the flag of Rear Admiral Mal-
combe ; the Diadem and Dictator, tAVo sixty-fours,
armed en flute; the Pomone, Menelaus, Trave,
Weser, and Thames, frigates, the three last armed
in the same manner as the Diadem and Dictator ;
the Meteor and Devastation, bomb vessels ; to
gether with one or two gun brigs ; making, in all,
a squadron of eleven or twelve ships of war, with
several store ships and transports.
On board the Royal Oak are embarked the
General, with his staff, and the artillery ; the Trave
and Weser are filled with the 4th ; the 44th are
divided between the Dictator and the Thames, in
the first of which ships are also the Engineers ;
the 85th occupies the Diadem ; and the rest are
scattered through the fleet, partly in the men of
war, and partly in the transports.
As soon as the troops were finally settled, with
all the baggage, and the vessels allotted for their
accommodation, the signal was made to weigh ;
but the wind being adverse, and the navigation of
the Garonne far from simple, it could not be obeyed
Avith safety. Every thing, therefore, remained
quiet till the evening of the 2d of June, when
the gale moderating a little, the anchors were
raised, and the sails hoisted. The tide was begin
ning to ebb when this was done, favoured by which
the ships drifted gradually on their course; but

ST. MICHAEL'S. 41
before long, the breeze shifting, blew directly in
their sterns, when they stood gallantly to sea,
clearing the river before dark ; and, as there
was no lull during the whole of the night, by
day-break the coast of France was not to be
discerned. All was now one wide waste of waters,
as far as the eye could reach, bounded on every
side by the distant horizon ; a scene, which, though
at first it must strike with awe and wonder a person
unaccustomed to it, soon becomes insipid, and even
wearisome, from its constant sameness.
It is not my design to amuse you with an ac
count of the various expedients adopted by lands
men on board of ships to kill time, neither do I
suppose that you would thank me for a transcript
of the log-book, relative to the changes in the wea
ther, and the rate of sailing. I shall only observe,
therefore, that with few interruptions, the fair wind
that carried us out of the Garonne, did not leave us
till the nineteenth, when, by calculating the ship's
situation, it appeared that the Azores, or Western
Islands, could not be very distant. Nor, as it turned
out, were these calculations incorrect ; for, on
ascending the deck next morning, the first object
that met our eyes was the high land of St. Michael's,
rising, like a collection of blue clouds, out of the
water. With such a prospect before us, you may
imagine our consternation, when we found our
selves deserted by the breeze which had hitherto

42 ST. MICHAEL S.

SO

uniformly favoured us, and lying as motionless
as logs, under the influence of a dead calm. Our
voyage was certainly not to be compared to that
of Nearchus among the ancients, of Columbus in
the middle ages, nor yet to those of Cooke or
Anson in more modern times, but it had been long
enough to produce a hearty dislike to the confine
ment of a ship, and a strong desire to be once more
on terra firma. Under these circumstances, the
delay of even a single day might be looked upon
as no slight misery, by men who had laid their ac
count Avith reaching a friendly port within a few
hours ; and you may be assured, that many bitter
complaints against the inconstancy of the weather,
sufficiently attested that such was the point of view
in which it was regarded.
But the injustice of these complaints was soon
evident, for before mid-day the breeze freshened
again, sending us every moment nearer to the ob
ject of our wishes. As soon as we contrived to
double the projecting head-land, which had attracted
our attention in the morning, our course became
one of much interest and pleasure. We had now
neared the shore considerably, and were moving
at a rate sufficiently rapid to prevent further re
pining, and at the same time slow enough to per
mit a distinct and calm survey of the beach, with
the numerous villages, seats, and convents, that
adorned it.

ST. Michael's. 43
The island of St. Michael is mountainous, even
to the very edge of the water, but the heights,
though lofty, do not present a rugged or barren
appearance. Here and there, indeed, bare rocks
push themselves into notice, but in general the
ascent is easy, and the hills are covered, to the tops,
with groves of orange trees and beautiful green
pasturage. Like other Portuguese settlements,
this island abounds in religious houses, the founders
of many of which do not appear to have been de
ficient in taste^ when they pitched upon situations
for building. There was one of these that particu
larly struck me ; it stood upon a sort of platform,
or terrace, about half way between the sea and the
summit of the mountain ; above it were hanging
woods, whether natural or artificial I cannot say,
interrupted now and then by projecting rocks ; and
round it were plantations of orange trees, loaded
with fruit, and interspersed with myrtles, and other
odoriferous shrubs. Being greatly pleased with
the mansion and the surrounding scenery, I natu
rally enquired froih the pilot (for one had already
come off to us) as to its use, and the quaUty of its
owner ; and from him I learnt that it was a con
vent, I forget of what order, a piece of inteUigence
which was soon confirmed by the sound of bells
distinctly audible as we passed.
In this manner we continued to coast along,
being seldom at a greater distance than four or five

44 ST. MICHAEL'S.
miles from the land, till we came opposite to a
small town caUed Villa Franca. Here, as the wind
threatened to die away, several others and myself
agreed to go on shore; a boat was accordingly
lowered, and we pushed off from the ship ; but the
operation of landing did not prove to be altogether
so simple as we had expected. An immense reef
of rocks, some under water, others barely above it,,
but none distinguishable till we had almost run
against them, opposed our progress ; and it was not
without considerable difficulty, and the assistance
of the country people, who made signals to us from
the beach, that we contrived to discover a narrow
channel, leading up to the strand.
Having at length so far attained our wishes, as
to tread once more upon firm ground, the next
thing to be done was to find out some inn, or house
of public entertainment, where we might pass the
night, a measure which the increasing darkness
rendered necessary. In this, however, we were
disappointed, as the town of Villa Franca could
boast of no such convenience on any scale. But
we were not on that account obliged to bivouac ;
for the Hidalgo, or mayor .of the place, politely in
sisted upon our accompanying him home, and en
tertained us with great hospitality; and, in truth,
we had no cause to regret the unsuccessful issue of
our enquiries, since, independent of the good cheer
with Avhich we were presented, our host, being an

VILLA FRANCA. 45
intelligent person, did not fail to render himself an
agreeable companion ; and what contributed in no
slight degree to the facility of our intercourse was,
that though he assured us he had never quitted
St. Michael's in his life, he spoke English with the
fluency of a native. Among other pieces of infor
mation, we learnt from him, that the reef which
impeded our progress towards the land, had for
merly been an island ; it appeared, he affirmed, one
morning, in the most sudden and extraordinary
manner, as if it had been thrown up by an earth
quake during the night, and having continued so
long above water, as to embolden a single family
of fishers to settle upon it, it disappeared again as
suddenly as it had come, leaving no trace of its
existence, except the rocks which we had found
so troublesome. Whether there be truth in this
story, I cannot pretend to determine ; and yet I
see no reason to doubt the word of a man of re
spectability, who could have no motive whatever
for deceiving us. But this was not all that we
learnt from him respecting this reef : he declared,
that previous to the appearance of the island, the
water, in that very spot, was unfathomable ; and
it was not till after it had sunk, that a single rock
stood in the way to prevent the largest ship of war
from anchoring within a stone's-throw of the
beach. - Finding our new acquaintance so civil and

46 villa franca.
obliging, we naturally informed him of our inten
tion to proceed next morning to Ponto del Gada,
the principal town in St. Michael's, and requested
his assistance in procuring some mode of convey
ance ; but we were startled by the intelligence, that
nothing of the kind could be had, and that there
were not even horses or mules to be hired at any
place nearer than the very town whither we were
going. This was rather an alarming piece of news,
for our boat had left us, the weather was too hot
for walking, and the distance to be travelled full
fifteen miles. Had we not sent the boat away, the
matter would have been easily managed, because
we might have sailed round to the point where the
fleet was to anchor ; but this was no longfer in our
power, and being rather unwilling to pursue our
journey on foot, we were altogether at a loss how
to determine. While we thus hesitated, the Hidalgo
suggested, that if we would condescend to ride
upon asses, he thought he could obtain a sufficient
number for our party; a proposal with which We
gladly closed, prudently determining that any mode
of being carried was better than walking. Leaving
the arrangement of this affair, therefore, to our
obliging friend, we retired to rest upon clean com
fortable shakedowns, spread for us on the floor ;
and, on waking in the morning, we found that he
had not been negligent in the charge assigned him.
Our party consisted of five officers, with five ser-

villa franca. 47
vants, for whose accommodation we found ten
asses at the door, each attended by its driver, armed
with a long pole tipped with an iron spike, for the
purpose of goading the animal whenever it should
become lazy.
It was not without a good deal of laughing, that
the cavalcade, after bidding adieu to the hospitable
Mayor, began to move forward. Besides the ridi
culousness of being mounted upon asses, these
asses were without bridles, and. had no saddles, ex
cept such as are used when the animals are loaded
¦with goods for the market ; for our own comfort,
therefore, we were obliged to sit a-la-femelle, and
having no command over the heads of our steeds,
we were content to be guided by the hallooing and
punching of the drivers. In spite, however, of these
inconveniences, if they may be so called, I shall
never cease to congratulate myself on having been
of the party, because the ride was beyond com
parison the most agreeable I ever remember to
have taken.
The road from Villa Franca to Ponto del Gada
quits the water's edge, and turns, for a little way,
inland, carrying you through a region as romantic
and beautiful as can well be imagined ; there are
here no level plains, no smooth paths over which
a landau or tilbury might glide, but, on the con
trary, a rugged and stony track, sometimes leading
down the face of steep hills, sometimes scaling

48 ST. MICHAEL S.
heights which at the distance of a mile appear
to be almost perpendicular, and sometimes wind
ing along the side of a cliff, and by the edge of a
fearful precipice. Except when you reach the- sum
mit of a mountain, the road is in general shaded
by the richest underwood, hanging over it from
above; but the whole aspect of the country is
decidedly that of a volcanic production : the rocks
seem to have been cast up and torn asunder by
some prodigious violence, and hurled by a force
which nothing but a volcano could possess, into the
most grotesque and irregular shapes. It is no un
common thing to pass under a huge crag, leaning
almost horizontally over the road, and bedded in
the earth by a foundation apparently so slight, as
to appear likely to fall every moment, precipitating
the enormous mass upon the luckless wretch be
neath. Nay, the very colour of the stones, and the
quantity of what bears every resemblance to vitri
fication, scattered about, aU tend to induce the
belief, that the main island owes its formation to
the same cause which doubtless produced the
smaller one, that has noAV disappeared.
But you must not fancy, from this description,
that St. Michael's is nothing, but a barren rock ;
far from it. There is, indeed, in this direction, at
least, a fair .proportion of that commodity, but
tracts of cultivated ground are not therefore want
ing. I should not certainly suppose that the soil

ST. Michael's. 49
was remarkably rich in any part of the island ; but
it produces the fig, the orange tree, and a grape,
from which they make very tolerable wine ; there
is excellent pasture for sheep, and a competent
supply of grain. But that in which the Azores,
and St. Michaefs among the number, particularly
excel, is the extreme salubrity of the climate : lying
in nearly the same degree of latitude with Lisbon,
the intense heat which oppresses in that city, is
here alleviated by refreshing sea-breezes ; by which
means, though I beheve there is no occasion at any-
season to complain of cold, it is only in the very
height of the dog-days, if then, that a person, not
actually engaged in violent exercise, is justified in
complaining of sultriness.
The trade of St. Michael's, as far as I could learn,
is confined exclusively to fruit ; the fig and the
orange are the staple commodities, and being both
very abundant, they are, of course, proportionably
cheap, Into the praise of a St. Michael's orange it
is unnecessary for me to enter, because it is gene
rally allowed to be the best with which the English
market is supplied ; but of the excellence of the
St. Michael's fig, I am not sure that my countrymen
are so much aware. It might be, that not having
seen a fig for a considerable lapse of time, my
appetite was peculiarly sharpened towards its good
quaUties, but it struck me that I never before
tasted any so highly flavoured or so dehcate.

50 ST. MICHAELS.
Besides these, they sell to vessels putting in, as Ave
did, for water, some of the wine made in this and
the neighbouring islands ; but the quantity thus dis
posed of, must be too inconsiderable to entitle it to
be classed among the articles of merchandize.
I find, however, that I am entering upon sub
jects in which I am but little versed, and digressing
from my narrative. Let me return, then, to selft
that beloved idol of aU travellers, and inform you,
that after we had ridden about six miles, the road,
which had hitherto conducted us along a narrow
glen, where the vision was intercepted on both
sides, now carried us to the summit of a lofty
mountain, from whence we enjoyed the satisfaction
of an extensive prospect, both of the sea and of the
interior. Looking towards the former, we beheld
our own fleet bearing down majestically upon
Ponto del Gada, and now fast approaching the
anchorage. Turning our eyes inland again, we
were delighted with a view of mountain and valley,
rock and culture, wood and pasturage, intermin
gled in the most exquisite degree of irregularity ;
but what principally attracted our attention, was
a thick dark smoke rising slowly from the summit
of a high hill that bounded the prospect. Our
curiosity being excited by this phenomenon, we
enquired from our guides into its cause, and were
informed that the mountain in question was a vol
cano, and that, at its base, and along its sides, were

ST. Michael's. 51
hot springs of water, of a temperature sufficient to
boil an egg in three minutes. This piece of intel
ligence confirmed me, as you may suppose, in my
former opinion relative to the operative cause in
the production of these islands; though, indeed,
had such evidence been wanting, I should never
theless have concluded, either that they were
thrown up, in their present form, from the bottom of
the sea, or at least that they were torn asunder from
one another by the force of fire. It must be con
fessed, however, that mine is the opinion of one who
has devoted little of his attention to geology ; but I
would by all means advise the disciples of Werner to
come hither, if they desire further helps in the
prosecution of that very interesting and practically
useful study.

E 2

52 ST. MICHAELS.

LETTER V.
As I am aware that you dishke, equally with my
self, the usual formalities at the commencement of
a letter, I shall continue my journal without offer
ing any observation or comment, which could
serve no end, but that of occasioning a break in the
narrative. Descending the mountain, on which we had
paused for a few minutes, to glut our eyes and satisfy
our curiosity, we arrived at a small hamlet, or
rather a group of two or three hovels, as roraanti-^
cally situated as it is possible for the imagination
of man to conceive. They stood at the further end
of a sort of recess, formed by the hills, which are here
broken into a circular valley, cut off, to all appear
ance, from the rest of the habitable world ; behind
them rose a towering crag, as perpendicular as the
drop of a plummet, from the top of which a little
rivulet came tumbling down, giving to the scene
an appearance of the most delightful coolness, and
amusing the ear with the unceasing roar of a
water-fall. From the very face of the cliff, where
there seemed to be scarcely soil enough to nourish
a thistle, numerous shrubs and dwarf trees pro-

ST. Michael's. 53
traded themselves, whilst above it, and on every
side of the area, the hills were covered with wood,
interrupted now and then by the bald forehead of
a blackened rock. In front of the hamlet again^
there was an opening sufficient to admit the most
dehcious ghmpse of the ocean ; and through this
the stream, after boiling for a while in a little basin
which it has excavated for itself out of what re
sembles the foundation of the cliff, makes its way,
brawling over a clear pebbly bottom, till it joins
the sea.
This paragon of valleys, and master-piece of
nature's handy-work, burst upon us as such scenes,
to be witnessed with advantage, ought to do, Avith-
out the slightest warning or expectation. The road
by which we approached it, being completely shut
in with wood, and winding considerably to aid the
descent, brought us out nearly at the gorge of the
vale, so as to throw the hamlet, the cliff, and the
waterfall, into the back-ground ; and, as the whole
Was of such extent as to be taken in at one glance,
the effect was striking beyond any of the kind I
ever witnessed. You may imagine that we had no
desire to hvirry through such a glen as this; and
needed not the additional motive which the weari
ness of our donkeys afforded, to persuade us to
a temporary halt. Giving the animals, therefore,
to the care of their owners, we dismounted, and
went into some of the cabins, the inhabitants of
E 3

54 ST. MICHAEL'S.
Which appeared to be as simple as the situation of
their abodes had prepared us to expect. The men
were aU goat-herds, and the women seemed to be
as idle as their countrywomen in Portugal, sitting
at the doors of their houses, surrounded by groups
of half-naked and filthy-looking children. To judge
by their dress, and the furniture of their hovels,
they were miserably poor, though perfectly con
tented; they did not ask us for money, but as
tonished, I suppose, at the glaring colour of our
coats, they were very inquisitive to know who we
were, and whence we had come. The English, the
French, and the Portuguese, seem to be the only
three nations of whose existence they have any
knowledge ; and having been assured, in answer to
their first question, that we were not French, they
immediately added, then you must be English.
They did not appear, however, to be without some
degree of cunning, for as long as we paused in
replying to their query, they were silent, but no
sooner had we answered in the negative, than they
launched forth into the most violent invectives
against the French ; convincing us, that the ani
mosity of the mother-country towards its barbarous
invaders, is not more implacable than that of the
colonies. Having loitered away half an hour in this ro-
inantic spot, and distributed a few dollars among
its inhabitants, we remounted our steeds and con-

ST. Michael's. 55
tinned our journey. The remainder of the ride
carried us through scenery very similar to what
we had already passed ; the only difference was,
that the nearer we approached to Ponto del Gada,
the more frequent became the spots of cultivation,
the width and smoothness of the road improving in
proportion ; till, at last, when we had attained the
brow of an eminence, from whence the town with
its port and bay were distinguishable, we looked
down upon an extensive valley, richly covered with
fields of standing corn. Quickening our pace, we
soon entered the capital of St. Michael's, and were
conducted by the drivers to a good hotel, kept by
an Englishwoman of the name of Currie, where we
found every accommodation we could desire, at a
very moderate expense.
As we had started at an early hour from Villa
Franca, the clocks were just striking ten, when we
alighted at Mrs. Curries hotel ; consequently, there
was a Iqng day yet before us, in which we might
see every thing that was to be seen in the place.
Having discharged our muleteers, therefore, who
seemed overjoyed at the receipt of one dollar
a-piece, swallowed a hasty breakfast, and made
ourselves somewhat comfortable, we lost no time
in setting out upon a stroll of examination and
discovery. Ponto del Gada is, in the whole, rather a neat
¦town, cpntaining from twelve to fourteen thousand
E 4

56 ST. MICHAEL S.
inhabitants ; but being built, especially in the out
skirts, without much regard to compactness, it
covers more ground than many places of double
the amount in population. It stands upon a little
bay, formed by two projecting head-lands, and can
boast of a tolerable harbour and excellent road
stead. In its immediate vicinity, the country is
more uniformly level than any I had yet observed ;
the vale extending to the distance of four; or five
miles on every side, and ending in an amphitheatre
of low green hills, which resemble, in appearance,
the downs as they are seen from Eastbourne, in
Sussex. The A\'hole of this flat is in a state of high
cultivation, being cleared, perhaps, too completely,
of wood, and portioned off into different fields and
parks by hedges and stone walls. Judging from
the appearance of the crops, I should conceive
that the soil was here of some depth, as well as
fertility ; the whole valley being covered with
wheat, barley, and Indian corn. In truth, from
the aspect of the country beyond the downs,
where rocks tower one above another in rude and
barren grandeur, one is almost tempted to believe
that the whole industry of the island has necessa
rily expended itself upon this spot, because it was
the only one capable of rewarding it. I was as
sured, however, by the natives, that such is not the
case ; and that, in the interior, and towards the
opposite coast, the rugged magnificence of moun-

ST. Michael's. 57
tain scenery gives way to a more profitable, though
less picturesque champaign.
The principal streets of Ponto del Gada are
pavedy and kept at once cool and clean by a con
stant sprinkling of water, which it is the business
of two or three men stationed at pumps within a
certain distance of one another, to scatter over
them. Of the bye streets Uttle can be said, they
being, Uke those of other Portuguese towns, com
posed of mean cottages, unpaved, and extremely
dirty. There is, however, an air of elegance given
to the town, particularly when looked at from a
distance, by the intermixture of orange groves
among the houses ; the largest of these, wherever
they happen to stand, being, in general, surrounded
by extensive gardens, all of which are abundantly
stocked Avith that graceful and odoriferous plant.
Add to this the number of towers and spires with
which its numerous churches and convents are
supplied, and the first coup-d'oeU may be conceived
to be extremely striking and imposing.
As soon as we had taken a general survey of the
streets, the next object of attention was the reli
gious houses. In these, however, there was but Uttle
to admire, the architecture being of the plainest
kind, and even the chapels as much wanting in or
nament as can b imagined. There were, indeed,
in most of them, some trifling attempts at carved
work and gilding upon the roof, a little stained glass.

58 ST. Michael's.
neither rich nor ancient, in the windows, and a few
tawdry pictures suspended above the altars ; but
the tout ensemble was decidedly that of buUdihgs
which did not even aim at beauty or grandeur. The
monks we found a good natured obliging set of
men, very wiUing to give us any information in
their power; by one of whom I was fortunate
enough to be conducted through a convent of
Augustine friars. Into their mode of living it is
not to be supposed that I could obtain much in
sight. It seemed, however, to be less indolent than
that of some convents, Avhich I had visited in the
old country, and approached proportionably nearer
to a college life among ourselves ; though it must
be admitted that the fellows and under-graduates
of Oxford and Cambridge have a better notion of
both comfort and elegance, than the Augustine
friars of St. Michael's. Of the nuns, of course, we
saw nothing, excepting through the grates. We
found them full of curiosity, and eager to know as
much as they could learn of the world from which
they were excluded ; but quite as fond of flirting
as any set of young ladies at a boarding- schqol. It
was amusing to observe their mode of begging ; for
all the nuus in this part of the world are licensed
beggars. The younger and fairer members of the
sisterhood came to the grate first ; chatted, suqgi
and presented us with artificial flowers, and then
retiring made way for the old and the ugly, who

ST. Michael's. 59
requested a little money for the good of our souls
and their bodies. To solicitations thus expressed,
it was impossible to turn a deaf ear, and the con
sequence was, that we soon discovered it to be
quite as expensive an amusement to flirt with a
nun, as with any other belle in London or else
where. Besides the churches and convents, amounting
in aU to not fewer than nine, there is a fort erected
for the protection of the harbour, which we like
wise endeavoured to see ; but were prevented by
the sentinel at the gate, who refused us admit
tance. The disappointment, however, was not
great, as it was easy to perceive, from its outward
appearance, that the fort could possess few points
worthy of observation ; and, indeed, we attributed
the reluctance evinced, in admitting strangers, to its
utter uselessness as a place of defence.
To describe all this occupies but a small portion
of my time, and to read the description wiU occupy
a stiU smaller portion of yours ; but to see it was
the laborious employment of an entire day. Wea
ried out, therefore, with my exertions, and not
feeling myself much rewarded, at least for the lat
ter part of my trouble, I returned in the evening
to the hotel, where, as the ships were stiU at anchor
taking on board water and fresh provisions, I
ventured to spend the night.
Having thus discovered that there was little in

60 ST. MICHAEL'S.
the works of art, and a great deal in those of nature,
throughout St. Michael's, to interest the traveller,
a friend and myself determined to set off next
morning on a visit to the volcano. With this
design we ordered asses, for asses are the only ani
mals for hire, to be in readiness by day-break, and
finding them in waiting at the time appointed, we
took a guide with us and pushed forward in the
direction of the dark smoke. The mountain with
its crater, being distinctly visible from Ponto del
Gada, we took it for granted that the distance
between the two places could not exceed twelve or
fourteen miles ; but, on enquiring of our guide, Ave
were alarmed by the information, that the nearest
road would carry us at least twenty-seven mUe^
from the town. Thunder-struck by this news, we
were for some time at a loss what course to piirsue.^
To proceed was dangerous, because, mounted as
we were, to go and return the same day was impos
sible ; and, if we remained so far from the shipping
during the night, the fleet might sail before we
should be able to get back. On the other hand, to
give up our design and quit a country where a vol
cano was to be seen, without seeing it, appeare4
rather a mortifying prospect. After weighing for
a few minutes the chances on both sides, I shall
hot say with the utmost impartiaUty, curiosity
finaUy prevailed over fear ; and, in order to prevent
any further repentance and consequent change of

ST. Michael's. 61
mind, we put our donkeys into a gallop, and hurT
ried on as fast as they could carry us. But the
speed of the asses, and our own venturous determi
nation proved, after all, equaUy unavailing ; for, on
gaining the summit of the downs, and looking
back upon the fleet, we beheld, to our great sorrow,
the signal for sailing floating from the top-masts of
aU the ships. Mortified at our disappointment,
and at the same time rejoicing that we had got no
further on our journey, we were compelled to turn
our asses' heads, and to retrace our steps towards
Ponto del Gada ; where we found every thing in
the bustle and confusion of a re-embarkation. The
beach was covered with sailors, soldiers, bullocks,
and casks of fr^sh water, hurrying, and being
hurried, indiscriminately into the boats which had
come to take them off. The towns-people were
running about upon the strand, some offering their
skiffs to convey the officers on board the ships, some
helping to swing the buUocks into the barges, and
others shouting and hallooing apparently from the
uninterested love of noise. In short, it was a scene
of great UveUness and bustle, perhaps rather too
much so to be agreeable.
Seeing this universal eagerness to reach the fleet,
we, of course, threw ourselves into the first boat
we could approach, and in a short time found our
selves on board our own ship. But here a very
tantaUzing piece of news awaited us, for we learnt

62 ST. MICHAELS.
that, in spite of aU this show of preparation, the
admiral had not begun to weigh anchor ; nor was
there any intention of moving, at soonest, before
the morrow. The opportunity, however, was lost,
and could not be recovered, consequently we were
obliged to submit as cheerfully as we could, though
it was impossible to help regretting, what had at
first been a source of consolation, the circumstance
of our having caught a view of the signal at the time
we did. But, as the event proved, it was quite as
well for us that we had ridden no further from the
shore ; for on the day following the signal was
again repeated ; and by way of giving additional
weight to it, the admiral began to shake loose his
top-sails. Nor did it prove, like that of yesterday,
a false alarm. By mid-day the victuaUing and
watering being complete, the fleet immediately
began to get under weigh ; and, as the wind blew
fair and fresh, before dark the mountains of St. Mi
chael's could be seen only like a thin vapour in the
sky. Next morning, nothing but the old prospedt
of air and water met the gaze, as we stood our
course, at a rapid rate, towards Bermuda.
The voyage from St. Michael's to Bermuda
occupied a space of almost an entire month, the
first having beeh lost sight of on the 27th of
June, and it being the 24th of July before
the low shores of the last could be discerned.
It was, however, a sail of more interest, and pro-

BERMUDA. 63
ductive of more variety than that from Bourdeaux
to the Azores. We had now got within the
influence of the tropical climate, and were not
unfrequently amused with water-spouts, and other
phenomena peculiar to warm regions. The flying
fish, Ukewise, and its pursuer the dolphin, afforded
at least something to look at ; whilst many idle
hours were whiled away in attempts to catch, or
strike the latter with harpoons. In these we were
not always unsuccessful, consequently I had seve
ral opportunities of watching the change of colour
which that fish undergoes when it is dying ; and
though the description generally given of it is cer*
tainly indebted in some degree to the imagination
of voyagers, I must confess that the transitions
from blue to purple, and from purple to green, with
all the intermediate shades, are extremely beau
tiful. When the fish is in the water, it is by no
means remarkable for brUUancy of hue, and as soon
as it is dead, it returns to its original colour, — a
dingy sea green ; but whilst it is floundering and
flapping upon the deck, it is impossible to say
what is its real appearance, so many, and so diffe
rent are the hues which it assumes. Nor did aa'c
escape without the occasional occurrence of a less
agreeable species of variety; I mean squaUs, thun
der-storms, and whirlwinds. As we approached
Bermuda, indeed, these became too frequent to
excite any interest, beyond an earnest desire that
they would cease ; but while we were yet a good

64 BERMUDA.
way off, and the incident rare, they were witnessed
Avith more of admiration than terror.
Besides these amusements with which nature sup
plied us, we were not backward in endeavouring to
amuse ourselves. Being now pretty weU accustomed
to the atmosphere of a ship, we began to consider
ourselves at home, and to give baUs and other public
entertainments through the fleet. One of these I
shall take leave to describe, because I am sure it
must interest from its novelty.
On the 19th of July, at an early hour in the morn
ing, a signal was made from the Royal Oak, that the
admiral would be happy to see the officers of the fleet,
on board his ship that evening. Boats were accord
ingly sent off from the different vessels, loaded with
visitors; and, on mounting the gang-way, a stagej
with a green curtain before it, was discovered upon
the quarter-deck. The whole of the deck, from the
poop to the niain-mast, was hung round with flagsj
so as to form a moderate sized theatre ; and the car-
ronades were removed from their port-holes, in or-,
der to make room for the company. Lamps were
suspended from all parts of the rigging and shrouds,.
casting a brilliant light upon this singular play
house ; and the crew, arrayed in their best attirej
crowded the booms, yards, and fore part of the deck;
whilst the space from the main-mast to the foot of
the stage, was set with benches for the more genteel
part of the audience.
At seven o'clock the curtain drew up, and dis-

AT SEA. C.'i
covered a scene painted with such taste, as would
not have disgraced any theatre in London. The
play was the Apprentice, Avith the Mayor of Garret
as an after-piece, performed by the officers of the
ship, and of the artillery ; and went off in high
style, applauded, as you may suppose, with the loud
est acclamations. The quarter-deck of a British
line of battle ship has often enough been a stage
for the exhibition of bloody tragedies, but to wit
ness a comedy and a farce upon that stage, and in
the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, was delightful
from its very singularity. When the performance
was at an end, the stage was knocked down, the
seats removed, and every thing cleared for dancing.
The music was excellent, being composed of the
band of the Royal Oak ; and the ball was opened
by Admiral Malcombe and the Honourable Mrs.
'Mullens, in a country dance, foUowed by as many
couples as the space would permit, the greater num
ber of officers dancing, as you may beUeve, with
one another. In this amusement every person,
from the admiral and general, down to the youngest
ensign and midshipman, joined, laying aside, for the
time, aU restraint or form of discipUne ; and having
kept it up Avith great spirit till considerably be
yond mid-night, a blue fight was hoisted as a
signal for the different boats to come off for the
strangers, and each returned to his own ship highly
gratified with the evening's entertainment.
F

66 AT SEA.

LETTER VI.

By employing ourselves in this manner, and by
keeping up what is emphatically called a good
heart, we contrived to pass our time agreeably
enough. Whenever the weather would permit, and
the fleet lay well together, we made parties of
pleasure to the different ships ; when the wind was
too high, and the fleet too much scattered for such
proceedings, we remained at home, and amused
ourselves in the best way we could. Some of the
captains, and our's among the number, were pos
sessed of very tolerable Ubraries ; the doors of
which they politely thrcAv open for the benefit
of their miUtary guests ; and thus, by reading, fish
ing, and boating, we were enabled to make head
with some success against the encroachments of
ennui. It must be confessed, however, that in
spite of strenuous efforts to the contrary, that
determined enemy of all idle persons, was begin
ning to gain ground upon us, when about mid-day,
on the 24th of July, a cry of land was heard from
the mast-head. All eyes were immediately turned
in the direction to which the sailor pointed, and as

BERMUDA. 67
the wind blew fair, and moderately fresh, no great
length of time elapsed, before the same object was
distinguishable from the deck. A signal was im
mediately hoisted for a pilot, who lost no time in
coming off to us ; and before dark, we were at
anchor opposite to the tanks in Bermuda.
The appearance of Bermuda is altogether as dif
ferent from that of St. Michael's, as one thing can
be from another. While the other, with its lofty
mountains and bold shores, can be seen at the dis
tance of many leagues^ a ship must be within a few
miles of this before the slightest symptom of land
is discernible. On this account it is, that mari^
ners find greater difficulty in making Bermuda,
than perhaps any other island or continent in the
known world ; the most experienced seamen fre
quently running past it, and not a few suffering
shipwreck every year, upon its numerous shoals
and rocks. For not only is the land itself low, and
thus apt to be run against by vessels which may
have approached, in stormy weather, too near to
put about ; but for many miles around it, reefs of
sunken rock stretch out into the sea in every direc
tion ; insomuch that even the approach to the
principal anchorage is no more than a narrow
channel between two such reefs, in many places
scarcely exceeding a mile, or a mile and a half in
width. The navigation, even in calm weather, is
therefore attended with considerable danger ; the
K 2

68 BERMUDA.
idea of which is greatly heightened by the remark
able clearness of the water, and the pecuUar bright
ness of the rocks. In some places this is so much
the case, that the bottom may be seen at the depth
of six and seven fathoms : while the aspect of the
reefs which He on each side, as you steer towards
the anchorage, is such, as almost to persuade one,
contrary to the evidence of reason, that a man might
leap upon them from a boat, without incurring
the danger of being . wet above the knees. Yet
these very reefs are seldom covered with less than
six, and sometimes with fourteen and fifteen feet
of water.
Low as they are, the shores of Bermuda are
nevertheless extremely beautiful. They are covered
with cedar, a tree which here, at least, seldom
exceeds the height of twenty feet, and from which,
before the sun has risen, and after he has set,
the land breeze comes loaded with the most delici
ous perfume. Under the wood there grows a rich
short turf, apparently struggling to spread itself over
the chalky rocks of which the entire island, or rather
islands, seem to be composed ; and, as the houses
of the better orders are chiefly built within reach
of the cool air from the water, they, with their
little lawns and gardens, produce a lively and
pleasing effect.
As darkness had come on before the ship could
be properly moored, no boats were permitted, to

BERMUDA. 69
leave her that night ; but, at an early hour next
morning, I embraced the first opportunity of going
on shore. To reach St. George's, the capital of the
colony, you are obliged to row, for several miles,
up a narrow frith called the ferry, immediately on
entering which the scenery becomes in the high
est degree picturesque. Though still retaining its
character of low, the ground, on each side, looks
as if it Avere broken into little swells, the whole of
them beautifully shaded with groves of cedar, and
many of them crowned Avith country houses, as
white as the drifted snow. But the fact is, that
this appearance of hill and dale is owing to the
prodigious number of islands which compose the
cluster ; there being in aU, according to vulgar
report, not fewer than three hundred and sixty-five ;
of which the largest exceeds not seven or eight
miles in diameter. Yet it is only when you fol
low what at first you are inclined to mistake for
a creek, or the mouth of a river, that you discover
the want of vallies between these hills ; and even
then, you are more apt to fancy yourself upon the
bosom of a lake studded with islets, than steer
ing amid spots of earth which stand, each of them
distinct, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
In the town of St. George's there is UteraUy
nothing to be seen, at least nothing worthy of
being repeated. It consists of about fifty or sixty
houses, the glare from which, as they are aU built
r 3

70 BERMUDA.
of the chalk-stone, is extremely dazzling to the
eyes. It is called the capital, because here the
court-house stands, and the magisterial sittings are
held ; but in point of size, and, as far as I could
learn, in every other respect, it is greatly inferior
to Hamilton, another town at the opposite extre
mity of the cluster, which I did not visit. A little
way from St. George's, and on the summit of a
bare rock, stand the barracks ; fitted up for the
accommodation of a thousand men ; and about a
mUe and a half beyond them, are the tanks, weU
worth the notice of travellers. The object of this
work is to catch and preserve the rain, a measure
which the total want of fresh springs through
out the colony renders absolutely necessary. There
are, indeed, wells dug upon the beach, but the
water in these is only sea-water, filtered and ren
dered brackish in making its way through the
sand; and by no means fit to be used, at least, in
any quantity. To supply this deficiency, the bad
effects of which were experienced in the unhealthi-
ness of many of the crews upon the American
station, government was induced to build these
tanks; consequently the water contained in them
is the property of the king, and none but king's
ships, with the troops in garrison, are permitted,
except in extreme cases, to be supplied from
thence. The chmate of Bermuda has been extoUed by

BERMUDA. 71
many, and among the rest by Mr. Moore in his
odes and epistles, as salubrious and deUghtful. It
is possible that he, and the rest of its eulogists,
may have visited these islands, at a season of the
year different from that in which I visited them, but
to me the heat was beyond every thing oppressive.
Lying, as they do, under the influence of a vertical
sun, and abounding, in all directions, with cliffs of
white chalk, it is obvious that the constant reflec
tion of the sun's rays thereby occasioned must be
quite overpowering. If these panegyrists mean to
say that as long as you contrive to keep in the
shade, and if you take care not to stir abroad till
after sun-set, you wiU find the Bermudas deserv
ing of their title of summer-islands, then I will
agree with them ; but I beUeve there is no man
who ever walked the street of St. George's at
noon, or any other spot Avhere the sun-beams could
reach him, that did not consider the heat as any
thing rather than temperate.
But whatever may be thought of the cUmate,
there can, I think, be but one opinion as to the
soil. It is generaUy admitted, that there is no
more unproductive spot of earth upon the face
of the deep, than Bermuda. The only animals
which appear to thrive are the goat, and the
duck ; the cedar and a few calash trees are the
only wood, and, except the most common kinds of
vegetables, such as cabbages, onions, and sweet
F 4

72 BERMUDA.
potatoes, I know of hardly another thing brought
to perfection, even in the gardens. The fruits
Avhich a stranger may meet with, are no doubt de
licious, since among them he will find the shaddock
and the pine-apple ; but for these, as well as for
almost all their other comforts and luxuries, the
Bermudians are indebted to the continent of Ame
rica, or to the West Indies. Whether this be owing
to the natural sterility of the soil, or to the extreme
indolence of the inhabitants, 1 cannot pretend to
decide ; though I should be inclined to suspect,
that both were, in some degree, to blame; but its
consequences are felt by all visitors, in a very sen
sible manner, every article of living being here
sold for thrice its intrinsic value. That provisions
should be dear in this country cannot surprize,'
when it is considered, that this small island (for in
spite of myself I cannot help regarding the whole
cluster as one) is the general depot, and place of
resort for repairs and stores, to a large proportion
of the British navy, scattered along the coast of
America; but, surely, if the natives were a Uttle
more industrious, they might afford to sell their
goods at a cheaper rate, and at the same time
to secure an equal, if not a greater profit. But
their indolence is beyond aU conception, and can
be attributed only to, what I believe is its real
cause, the facility with which they acquire fortunes,-
from men who are necessitated to give whatever

BERMUDA. 73
they demand for the most trifling article. The
poorest and meanest freeman upon the island,
never dreams of applying his own hand, or even
his own head, to the cultivation of the ground ; and
being abundantly supplied with negro slaves, they
leave every thing, even the care of providing
necessaries for themselves, to the industry of that
ill-used race. You may perhaps consider me as too
severe upon the Bermudians, but rest assured that
I repeat only what I was told by some of them
selves ; nor did I, from my own personal observa
tion, discover any cause to question the veracity of
my informers.
In the praise bestowed by Mr. Moore upon the
beauty of these regions, I do, however, most cordi
ally join. There is something bewitchingly pretty,
for pretty is perhaps the most appropriate epithet
I could use, in every one of the many views which
you may obtain from different points. The low
and elegant cedar, the green short turf, the frequent
recurrence of the white and dazzling rock, the con
tinual rise and fall of the numerous small islands,
but above all, the constant intermingUng of land
and water, seem more Uke a drawing of fairy-land,
than a reality. There is nothing grand, nothing
imposing, or calculated to excite any feeling bor
dering upon the awfid, throughout the whole; but
it is soft, gentle, and exquisitely pleasing.
Having spent the day at St. George's, I returned

74 BERMUDA.
on board to sleep; and on the morrow removed,
Avith my baggage, to a transport then lying at
anchor within the ferry, which was thenceforth to
be my head quarters. There is, I am aware, an
universal prejudice against transports, which I
firmly believe to be not more general than unjust.
There are few gales which the greater number of
those in the English service will not ride out ; and
there are few situations in which they are not suf
ficiently manned, to be manageable. For my own
part, I confess my predilection for a transport
rather than for a ship of war : because in the one,
you are absolutely nothing, the captain being there
all in all ; whilst in the other you are at least your
own master, and have the command of your oAvn
men. To my new quarters I accordingly removed,
without experiencing a shadow of regret ; and
soon found reason to congratulate myself on the
greater degree of liberty which I from that time
enjoyed. You will readily believe, that a very small por
tion of my time was now wasted on board ship ;
for economy's sake I usually slept there, because
at the inn the charge for beds, as weU as for every
thing else, was enormous ; but all the hours of day-
Ught were devoted to rowing round the different
islands, and climbing the different eminences, from
whence the most extensive prospects were to be ob
tained. Among other curiosities, I was informed

BERMUDA. 75
of two caves in one of the little isles, distant about
four or five miles from the place where we lay.
Being assured that they were highly deserving of
notice, I determined to visit them ; and setting off
one evening, with several others, for that purpose,
we reached the spot which had been pointed out to
us, a little before dark. We fastened the boat to
the stump of a tree, and were proceeding towards
the caves, when a fine manly voice, singing one of
the Irish melodies, attracted our attention. Being
rather curious to discover who, in this extra-
mundane place, had learnt to sing with so much
taste, we foUoAved the direction of the sound, tiU
we came upon a party sitting under the shade of
a tent, and like ourselves, enjoying the cool of the
evening ; on perceiving us, some of them came
forward, and the satisfaction was mutual, when we
recognized one another asold acquaintances. They
urged us to relinquish our design, and to partake of
their good cheer, with which, as the hour was late,
Ave had small reluctance in complying ; and it was
agreed, that instead of going on without proper
guides, and at so unseasonable a time, we should
breakfast together at the same spot in the morning,
and proceed in a body to examine the caverns.
Here, therefore, we remained tiU the moon had
risen, when we returned to our boat, and sailed
back to the ship.
Next morning every thing was got ready for the

76 BERMUDA.
expedition, but a heavy squaU coming on, pre
vented us from setting out as early as we had
intended; as soon as this blew over, we took to
our boat, and reached the place of rendezvous in
time to share the remains of a good breakfast,
which our friends had prepared for themselves and
us. When it Avas finished, we supplied ourselves
with torches from some dry branches of the calash-
tree, and headed by a guide, moved towards the
mouth of the nearest and largest of the two caves.
We descended into this by a ladder of sixteen steps,
and arrived upon a broad ledge of rock, where we
halted for a few minutes to light the torches, and
accustom our vision to the gloom ; when both of
these ends were attained, and we had advanced a
few paces into the cave, a sight of the most inde
scribable sublimity burst upon us. The appearance
was that of a huge Gothic cathedral, having its
roof supported upon pillars of spar, moulded into
the most regular shapes, and fluted and carved after
the most exact models of architecture. The roof
itself, however, was too lofty to be discerned, nor
could the eye penetrate to any thing like an ex
tremity, all beyond a certain extent being wrapped
in the most profound darkness ; but the flashes of
Ught which at intervals streamed out, as the glare
of the torches fell upon pieces of spar as clear as
crystal, and the deep echo of our own voices as we
spoke, inspired us with a feeUng of awe, bordering

BERMUDA. 77
upon superstition. It is in such a situation as this,
that the poorness and insignificance of human
labour, most forcibly strikes the mind. The most
magnificent church and abbey, with their sculp
tured piUars and vaulted ceiUngs, were thought of
as mean in comparison of what was now before
us ; nay, one could not help imagining, that these
very churches and abbeys had been built in humble
imitation of this, which looked like a temple rear
ed by some beings more powerful than men. It
seemed a shrine worthy of the genii of old, while
yet they were in the zenith of their glory, and ere
they had been driven from their thrones and oracles
of darkness, by the light of Christianity.
As we moved onward, we found the sides of the
cave gradually narrow upon us, and the roof be
come lower and lower. There was, however, a
continuance of the same fane-like appearance to
the last, though growing more and more contracted ;
till, finally, we were compelled to advance one by
one, and to stoop in order to prevent our heads
from coming in contact with the rock. We had
now gone as far as it was possible to go with any
degree of comfort, and were informed by the guide,
that we were upwards of three hundred yards from
the entrance, when we found it expedient to wheel
about, and to return to the open air. But the effect
of so sudden a change,, from darkness to light, was
exceedingly disagreeable ; insomuch, that we has-

78 BERMUDA.
tened into the smaller cave, as weU for the purpose
of deferring the moment of suffering, as to continue
our search after the sublime.
The entrance to this cavern is extremely dan
gerous, and not to be ventured upon without
either a trusty guide, or a thorough knowledge of
the ground. After descending a ladder, not quite
so deep as that which leads into the larger cave, you
arrive at the brink of a fearful chasm, across which
a flat stone, about two feet in width, is laid, con
necting the edges by a bridge of four or five feet
in length. It is very fortunate that this frightful
bridge is of no greater extent, for if you should
chance to slip, or lose your balance whilst upon it,
nothing could save you from being precipitated
into the gulf. To what depth this chasm may
reach, the guide could not inform us ; but that it
is considerable, we discovered, by dropping a large
stone, Avhich we could hear for some time as it
dashed against the projecting edges of the rock,
and at length splashed, with a tremendous echo,
into water. The man maintained, that the sea beat
under the foundation of the island as far as the spot
where we now stood, and his story was rendered
at least probable, by the number of pools of salt
water, which we met with in the interior of the
cave. After having visited the larger cavern, this cer
tainly appeared to disadvantage; but, had L beheld

BERMUDA. 79
it first or without seeing the other at all, I should
have beUeved that nothing upon earth could sur
pass it for grandeur and beauty ; the only respect in
which it is inferior to the other, being its size. The
spar is as clear, and proportionably as abundant ;
the pillars are quite as regularly formed; and it
has even an advantage over its rival in two or three
broken columns, which give to it the semblance of
a temple in ruins. There is, also, in this cave, a
strange propinquity of salt and fresh water pools ;
the situation of two of which struck me as pecu
liarly curious. They were divided from each other
by a piece of rock not much thicker than a man's
hand ; and yet the water from the one tasted as if
it had been taken from the German Ocean, while
that from the other was as fresh and pleasant as
possible. We had by this time fuUy gratified our curiosity,
and once more ascended to the world of sunshine ;
the splendour of which was at first almost in
supportable. By degrees, however, our eyes became
accustomed to the change, and recovered their ori
ginal tone, when we separated, each party returning
to its respective ship, in high good humour with
the day's employment.
But to dine quietly on board was no longer en
durable. A tent was acordingly carried on shore,
and having sought out the most shady and agreeable
nook within a moderate distance of the vessel, our

80 BERMUDA.
dinner was brought thither, and we spent the
evening, as we had done the morning, among the
works of nature. Here we remained till a late
hour, talking over the adventures of the: day, and
occasionally attempting a bUnd peep into futurity,
tUl our friend, the moon, having risen, we again
pulled on board by her light, and retired to sleep,
and to dream of sparry domes and enchanted
temples.

BERMUDA. 81

LETTER Vn.
Hurried aAvay by the desire, so natural to most
men, of speaking of myself, I have neglected to
record the occurrence of some incidents which you
wiU probably consider as more interesting than any.
that I have yet told, because they relate to the
expedition at large. In the first place I forgot to
state, that we found Sir Alexander Cochrane in the
Tonnant of eighty guns, waiting at Bermuda, to
take upon himself the guidance of the fleet. In
the next place, I did not inform you, that the secret
of our destination transpired as soon as we had
anchored off the island ; and that the bay of Che
sapeake is to be the theatre of our operations.
Lastly, I omitted to mention, that on the 30th, our
Uttle army was reinforced by the junction of the
21st Fusileers ; a fine battalion, mustering nine hun
dred bayonets. The evening before,, a squadron of
six frigates and several transports appeared in the
offing, which by mid-day on the 30th Avere all at
anchor in the roads. They proved to be from the
Mediterranean,, having the 21st, 29th, and 62d Re
giments on board,, of which the two latter were pro-
G

'82 BERMUDA.
ceeding to join Sir George Prevost's army in Ca
nada, while the former attached itself to that under
the command of General Ross. By this very ac
ceptable reinforcement, our numbers were increased
to upwards of three thousand effective men, and
a greater confidence in themselves, as well as a
better grounded hope of success, in whatever enter-
prize they might undertake, was at the same time
given to the troops.
Having already dwelt sufficiently upon my ov/n
personal adventures at Bermuda, I shall not waste
your time by a particular detail of the various pre
parations which during this interval were making
throughout the fleet. Stores of provisions, fresh
water, ammunition, clothing, &:c. were provided,
and magazines for the future supply of the expe
dition established ; when on the 3d of August, all
things being now complete, the ships once more
got under weigh, and stood towards America.
During the Avhole of this day, the wind was Ught
and unsteady, consequently Uttle progress was
made, nor did the white rocks of Bermuda disap
pear tiU darkness concealed them ; but towards
morning a fresher and more favourable breeze sprang
up, and the rest of the voyage was performed in
reasonable time, and without the occurrence of any
incident worthy of notice. The heat, indeed, be
came more and more oppressive every day, and
the irksomeness of renewed confinement was more

AMERICA. 83
sensibly experienced from the long hoUday which
we had enjoyed on shore ; but, in other respects,
every thing returned to its former state, till towards
evening on the 14th, when a signal was made by
the admiral, that land was in sight. As yet, how
ever, there Avas no appearance of it from the deck
of our transport, nor, for a full half hour, could our
anxious gaze be rewarded by the slightest trace of
what it sought ; but, at the end of that time, the
low sandy point of Cape Charles began to show
itself, and we rejoiced in the prospect of a speedy
release from the ennui of a sea-faring life.
The coast of America, at least in this quarter, is
universally low and uninteresting ; insomuch that
for some time before the land itself can be dis
cerned, forests of pines appear to rise, as it were,
out of the water. It is also dangerous, from the
numerous shoals and sand-banks which run out, in
many places, to a considerable extent into the sea :
and Avhich are so formidable, that no master of a
vessel, unless he chance to be particularly well ac
quainted with the navigation, wiU venture to ap
proach after dark. The fleet was accordingly an
chored within a few miles of the shore, but no
sooner had the day begun to break, than the sails
were again hoisted; and the ships steering under
the influence of a leading wind, between the Capes
Charles and Henry, stood in gaUant style up the
Chesapeake. G 2

84 CHESAPEAKE.
This noble bay is far too wide, and the land on
each side, too flat to permit any but an indistinct
glimpse of the shore, from the deck of a vessel
which keeps well towards the middle. We could
distinguish nothing, therefore, on either hand, ex
cept the tops of trees, with, occasionally, a wind-
miU, or a light-house ; but the view of our own
fleet was, in truth, so magnificent, as to prevent
any murmuring on that account. Immediately on
entering, we were joined by Admiral Cockburn
with three Une of battle ships, several frigates, and
a few sloops of war and gun brigs, by which means,
the squadron could now muster above twtenty
vessels entitled to display the pendant, besides an
equal, if not greater number of victuaUers and
transports. Nor were we strengthened by this ad
dition, in the naval part of the expedition alone^
On board these ships was embarked a powerful
reinforcement for the army, consisting of a batta
lion of seven hundred marines, an hundred negroes
lately armed and .disciplined, and a division of
marine artillery ; so that we could now calculate
on landing a corps of at least four thousand men.
The sight was therefore altogether as grand arid
imposing as any I ever beheld ; because one could
not help remembering that this powerful fleet Avas
sailing in an enemy's bay, and was filled with
troops for the invasion of that enemy's country.
Thus, like a snow-ball, we had gathered as we

CHESAPEAKE. 85
Avent on, and from having set out a mere handful
of soldiers, were now become an army formidable
from its numbers as well as discipline.
The shoals and sand-banks, which abound on the
outside of the bay, continue to encumber the
navigation after it is entered ; and the consequence
was, that the fleet was compelled to anchor every
night. This was, of course, the occasion of much
delay. The first day's sail carried us to the mouth
of the James river ; and the second to the mouth
of the Potomac ; but, oii both occassions, we brought
up at too great a distance from the beach, to
permit a perfect or distinct view of either of these
rivers. Opposite, to the latter, indeed, we remained
for a night and a considerable part of the folloAV-
irig day, and the sky being remarkably clear, we
saw something more of it; than we had been able to
see of the other river. It appeared to be a fine piece
of water making its way through the centre of huge
forests, and, though the current is in reaUty strong,
flowing on without any apparent motion. But it
Avoidd have been impossible to trace its course,
even had we been nearer the shore, above a few
miles, on account of its numerous windings, the first
of Avhich, overshadowed as it is with wood, shuts it
out from further observation. By continuing here
so long, we had begun to conjecture that a landing
somewhere on "the banks of this river was in con
templation. In this, however, We Avere deceived,
G 3

86 THE PATUXENT.
for about one o'clock the fleet was again under sail,
and moving toAvards the Patuxent ; a river which
empties itself into the bay, several miles above the
Potomac. It was singular enough, that the ships had
scarcely begun to lift their anchors, when the sky,
which had hitherto been clear and serene, became
suddenly darkened, and overcast with heavy
clouds ; and the water, which before had been as
smooth and bright as a mirror, began to rise in
black waves tipped with foam, though there was
not a breath of air to fill the sails. Hurricanes
are, I believe, not unfrequent in this part of the
world, and it was expected that these changes in
the sea and sky foreboded the arrival of one ; but
it passed by without coming to any violence, and
when we brought up, which was done in the
evening, the clouds had dispersed, and the water
was again like a glassy lake.
The 18th of August had now arrived, and as yet
we had got no farther than to the mouth of the
Patuxent. There we lay, as we had done the day
before, till noon, waiting, as it seemed, for a
breeze ; but no sooner did the wind blow fair,
than the fleet began to enter the river, and to make
its way slowly and majestically against the stream.
The sail became now picturesque and interesting
in the highest degree. On each hand the banks
were covered with fields of Indian corn, and mea-

THE PATUXENT. 87
dows of the most luxuriant pasture ; while the
neat wooden houses of the settlers, all of them
painted white, and surrounded with orchards and
gardens, presented a striking contrast to the bound
less forests which formed a back ground to the
scene. There was, in short, the most deUghtful
mixture of art and nature that can possibly be con
ceived ; different in every respect from what I had
seen towards the skirts of the pine-woods in France.
There, the country looked as if it had been newly
cleared, and as if there had not been time to
remove the furze, heath, and underwood, nor yet
to burn or grub up the roots of the trees which
had been felled. Here, there was the most com
plete line drawn between the regions devoted to
cultivation, and those still in a state of nature.
The banks of the river being tolerably high, and
sloping gradually down to meet the water, the Avhole
of this incUnation is entirely cleared and cultivated,
not a remnant of the original forest being left, ex
cept as much as is required to form the most beautiful
hedge-rows and boundaries between the different
fields and farms. The' same appearance continues to
the distance of perhaps half a mile from the water,
the whole space being as perfectly free from Avood,
as if none had ever grown there ; when you arrive
at once at the borders of forests through which no
eye might pretend to penetrate, and no traveUer ven
ture to seek his way. W^ithout beholding the view,
g4

88 THE PATUXENT.
it is impossible for any one to -imagine the effect
produced by such scenery. Here, nature is seen in
her grandest attire ; civilized man in his most piti
ful state. The rivers and forests are sublime
beyond description, whilst the tiny spots, brought
under the dominion of culture and civilization,
appear only like petty thefts, from the wild beasts
and wilder human inhabitants of these Savannas,
which they care not to resent, because they are un
worthy of their notice.
I need not inform you, that, in America, as well
as in aU other late disco va*ed countries, the banks
of navigable rivers are the first places peopled and
cleared. The causes of this, you are as much aware
of as I am ; namely, that the facility with which
they can rid themselves of the trees, as they fell
them ; and perhaps, in some degree, the prospect of
a constant supply of fish from the streams, induce
settlers to select such situations, in preference to
others farther in the interior. These are, proba
bly, the motives which first influence them in their
choice of spots, on which to bestow their labour ;
and, if they have an eye to futurity, they will per
ceive that the same cause, which facilitated their
operations in clearing, wiU supply an easy mode of
conveying the produce of the soil to' market, either
at home or abroad. A sail up any of the rivers in
America is, therefore, extremely beautiful, because
they are aU skirted with the appearances of life

THE PATUXENT. 89
and industry; and the Patuxent being of some
size, and considerable depth, you will beUeve that
its banks are not inferior to those of other streams.
We had not proceeded many miles from the
river's mouth, when a telegraph from the admiral
gave orders for the troops to be in readiness to land
at a moment's notice. Every thing was therefore
put in a state of forwardness; provisions for three
days, that is, three pounds of pork, and two pounds
and a half of biscuit, were cooked and given to
the men ; the cartouch box:es were supplied with
fresh ammunition, and the arms and accoutrements
handed out. The fleet, however, continued to
move on, without shovving any inclination to bring
tip ; till, at length, having ascended to the distance
of ten leagues from the bay, the ships of the Une
began to take the ground ; and, in a little while
after, even the frigates could proceed no farther.
But, by this time, the sun had set, and darkness Avas
coming on ; consequently, there was no possibility,
for that day, of getting the troops on shore without
much confusion, if not danger. All, therefore, re
mained quiet for the night, the soldiers being only
moved from the large ships into such as drew least
water; and these running up as high as prudence
would permit, under convoy of the gun-brigs and
isloops of war.
As soon as the dawn began to appear, on' the
morning' of the 19th, there Avas a general stir

90 THE PATUXENT.
throughout the fleet. A gun-brig had already
taken her station within an hundred and fifty yards
of a village called St. Benedict's, on the left bank
of the river, where it was determined that the dis
embarkation should be effected. Her broad-side
was turned towards the shore, and her guns, loaded
with grape and round shot, were pointed at the
beach, to cover the landing of the boats ; and being
moored fore and aft with spring-cables, she was
altogether as manageable as if she had been under
sail. The rest of the ships were several mUes
lower down the stream, some of them being aground
at the distance of four leagues from this point ; but
the boats were quickly hoisted out from every one
of them, and the river was covered hi a trice, with
a weU-manned and warUke flotilla. The disembark
ation was conducted with the greatest regularity
and dispatch. Though the stream ran strong
against them, and some of them were obliged to
row fourteen or fifteen miles backwards and forr
wards, so strenuously did the sailors exert them
selves, that by three o'clock in the afternoon the
whole army was landed, and occupied a strong
position about two miles above the village.
From what I have stated, respecting the gun-
brig, you will perceive that aU things were in readi
ness to meet and repel any opposition that might
be offered. Her broadside being pointed directly
towards the village, rendered it impossible for the

ST. benedict's. 91
enemy to bring doAvn troops in that direction, and
at the same time gave to our people an opportu
nity of forming, and thus being able to meet, in
good order, whatever force might be posted to
hinder then- advance up the country. Had a few
pieces of artillery been mounted, indeed, upon the
high ground, afterwards taken possession of by us,
some execution might have been done upon the
boats, as they drew towards the beach ; but even
that would have been trifling, because, unless they
had had leisure to heat their shot, no artillery in
the open country could long stand before the fire
of even a gun-brig, armed as this was, for the occa
sion, with long thirty-two pounders. Each boat
load of soldiers, likewise, drew up the mdment
they stepped on shore, forming line without any
regard to companies or battalions ; whilst parties
were instantly dispatched to reconnoitre, and to take
possession of every house, as weU as to line every
hedge, in front of the shore where their comrades
were arriving. But these preparations, though no
more than common prudence required, were un
necessary ; since there was not only no opposition
to the landing, but, apparently, no enemy within
many miles of the place.
By the time the different regiments had occupied
the ground aUotted for them, the hospital and com
missariat stores were brought up, and aU the
material property arranged, the day was too far

92 ST. benedict's.
spent to permit ah advance into a country, of the
nature and military situation of which we were of
course ignorant. The afternoon was accordingly
devoted to a proper distribution of the force ; which
was divided .into three brigades, in the following
order. The first, or light brigade, consisted of the 85th,
the light infantry companies of the 4th, 21st, and
44th regiments, with the party of disciplined
negroes, and a company of marines, amounting in
aU to about eleven hundred men ; to the command
of which Col. Thornton, of the 85th regiment, was
appointed. The second brigade was composed of
the 4th and 44th regiments, mustering together
fourteen hundred and sixty bayonets ; and was
commanded by Col. Brooke, of the 44th : and the
third was made up of the 21st, and the battalion of
marifles, equaUing in number the second brigade,
and commanded by Col. Patterson, of the 21st.
The Avhole of the infantry may, therefore, be esti
mated at four thousand and twenty men. Besides
these, Avere landed about a hundred artillery-men,
and an equal number of drivers ; but, for want Of
horses to drag them, no more than one six-pourider
and two small three-pounder guns, were brought
on shore. Except thoSe belonging to the general
and staff officers, there was not a single horse in
the whole army. To have taken on shore a large
park of artillery would have been, therefore, abso'-

ST. benedict's. 93
lute folly ; since even the pieces which were landed,
proved in the end of very little service, and were
drawn by seamen sent from the different ships for
. that purpose. The sailors, thus employed, may be
rated at a hundred, and those occupied in carrying
stores, ammunition, and other necessaries, at a hun
dred more ; and thus, by adding these, together with
fifty sappers and miners, to the above amount, the
whole number of men landed at St. Benedict's may
be computed at four thousand five hundred.
This little army was posted upon a height which
rises at the distance of two miles from the river.
In front was a valley, cultivated for some way,
and intersected with orchards ; at the farther extre
mity of which the advanced piquets took their
ground ; pushing forward a chain of sentinels to
the very skirts of the forest. The right of the
position was protected by a farm-house with its
inclosure and out-buildings, and the left rested
upon the edge of the hiU, or rather mound, which
there abruptly ended. On the brow of the hilh
and about the centre of the line, were placed the
cannon, ready loaded, and having lighted fusees
beside them ; while the infantry bivouacked im
mediately under the ridge ; that is, upon the slope
of the hiU which looked towards the shipping ; in
order to prevent their disposition from being seen
by the enemy, should they come down to attack.
But, as we were now in a country, where we could

94 ST. benedict's.
not calculate upon being safe in rear, any more
than in front, the chain of piquets was carried
round both flanks, and so arranged, that no attempt
could be made to get 'between the army and the
fleet, without due notice, and time given to oppose
and prevent it. Every thing, in short, was ar
ranged with the utmost skill, and every chance of
surprise provided against ; but the night passed in
quiet, nor AA'^as an opportunity afforded of evincing
the very soldier-like dispositions which had been
made.

ST. BENEDICT'.^. 95

LETTER Vin.
Next morning the troops, as is customary during
a state of active warfare, were under arms an hour
before day-light ; and remained in position till
after the sun had risen. It was then confidently
expected that the column would be put in motion,
though in what direction it was to proceed, or what
was the object of the descent, none but the General
himself appeared to know. A rumour, indeed, pre
vailed, that a flotilla of gun-boats, upon the
Patuxent, commanded by the American commo
dore Barney, was the point of attack ; and that
while the land force advanced up the river to
prevent their retreat, armed boats from the fleet
were to engage them in front. That such was
in reality the primary object of the landing, I
have every reason to believe, though circumstances
afterwards occurred to bring about a change in
the plan of operations. Into these, however, I
shaU not now enter, because they are in no way
connected with the present stage of my narrative,
but shall merely inform you, that in their expecta
tions of an immediate advance, the troops were

96 NOTTINGHAAI.
disappointed. Whether is was that the arrange
ments had not been completed, or that intelligence
respecting the state of the country, and the enemy's
preparations, was wanting, I do not know; but
the regiments returned to the ground which they
had occupied during the night, and every thing re
sumed the same face which it had worn on the even
ing before.
In this state affairs continued till four o'clock in
the afternoon, when the General suddenly made
his appearance in the camp, the bugles sounded^
and the regiments formed in order for marching.
Nor did many minutes elapse before the word was
given, and the army began to move, taking the
direction of Nottingham, a town situated on the
river, where it was understood that the flotiUa lay
at anchor. The march was conducted Avith the
same caution and good order that had marked the
choice of ground for encamping, and the disposi
tion of the troops in position. The aiivanced
guard consisting of three companies of infantry led
the way. These, however, were preceded by a
section of twenty men, moving before them at the
distance of an hundred yards ; and even these
twenty were but the followers of two files, sent
forward to prevent surprise, and to give warning
of the approach of the enemy. Parallel with th^
head of the three companies marched the flank
patroles ; parties of forty or fifty men, which ex^

NOTTINGHAM. 97
tending in files from each side of the road, swept the
woods and fields to the distance of nearly half a
mile. After the advanced guard, leaving an inter
val of a hundred, or a hundred and fifty yards,
came- the light brigade; which, as weU as the ad
vance, sent out flankers to secure itself against am
buscades. Next to it, again, marched the second
brigade, moving steadily on, and leaving the skir
mishing and reconnoitering to those in front ; then
came the artillery, consisting, as I have already
stated, of one six and two three-pounder guns,
draAvn by seamen ; and las.t of all came the tliird
brigade, leaving a detachment at the same distance
from the rear of the column, as the advanced guard
was from its front.
In moving through an enemy's country, the
journeys of an army will, except under particular
circumstances, be regulated by the nature of the
ground over which it passes : thus, though eight,
ten, or even twelve miles may be considered as a
short day's march, yet if at the end of that space
an advantageous position occur, (that is, a piece of
ground well defended by natural or accidental bar
riers, and at the same time calculated for the opera
tions of that species of force, of which the army
may be composed) it would be the height of impru
dence to push forward, merely because a greater
extent of country might be traversed without
fatiguing the troops. On the other hand, should
H

98 NOTTINGHAM.
an army have proceeded for eighteen, twenty, or
even twenty-five miles, without the occurrence of
any such position, nothing except the prospect of
losing a large proportion of his men from weari
ness, ought to induce a general to stop, until he
has reached some spot at least more tenable than
the rest. Our march to-day was, upon this prin
ciple, extremely short, the troops halting when they
had arrived at a rising ground, distant not more
than six mUes from the point whence they had set
out ; and having stationed the piquets, planted the
sentinels, and made such other arrangements as
the case required, fires were lighted, and the men
suffered to Ue down.
It may seem strange, but it is nevertheless true,
that during this short march of six miles, a greater
number of soldiers dropped out of the ranks, and
fell behind, from fatigue, than I recollect to have
seen in any march in the Peninsula of thrice its
duration. The fact is, that the men, from haAdng
been so long cooped up in ships, and unused to
carry their baggage and arms, were become re
laxed and enervated, to a degree altogether unna
tural ; and this, added to the excessive sultriness
of the day, which exceeded any thing we had
yet experienced, quite overpowered them. The
load which they carried, likewise, was far from
trifling, since, independent of their arms and sixty
rounds of ball cartridge, each man bore upon his

NOTTINGHAM, 99
back a knapsack, containing shirts, shoes, stockings,
&c., a blanket, a haversack, with provisions for
three days, and a canteen or wooden keg, filled with
water. Under these circumstances, the occurrence
of the position was extremely fortunate,' since not
only would the speedy failure of light have com-
peUed a halt, whether the ground was favourable
or the reverse ; but even before darkness had come
on, scarcely two-thirds of the soldiers would have
been found in their places.
The ground upon which we bivouacked, though
not remarkable for its strength, Avas precisely such
as might tempt a general to halt, who found his
men Aveary, and in danger of being benighted. It
was a gentle eminence, fronted by an open and
cultivated country, and crowned with two or three
houses, having barns and walled gardens attached
to them. Neither flank could be said to rest upon
any point peculiarly well defended, but they were
not exposed; because, by extending or condensing
the Une, almost any one of these houses might be
converted into a protecting redoubt. The out
posts, again, were so far arranged differently from
those of yesterday, that, instead of covering only
the front and the two extremities, they extended
completely round the encampment, inclosing the
entire army within a connected chain of sentinels ;
and precluding the possibility of even a single indi
vidual making his way within the lines, unperceived.
h2

100 NOTTINGHAM.
These precautions were, however, Uke those of
the preceding day, unnecessary, no enemy making
his appearance, even to reconnoitre ; and yet it
cannot be said that the night was passed in unin
terrupted quiet, for the troops had scarcely lain
down, when they were disturbed by a tremendous
storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied by a
heavy faU of rain. The effect of the lightning, as it
glanced for a moment upon the bivouac, and dis^
played the firelocks piled in regular order, and the
men stretched like so many corpses beside them,
was extremely fine; the effect of the rain, how
ever, was not so agreeable, for being perfectly
destitute of shelter, we were speedily wet to the
skin ; and the remainder of our resting time was
rendered thereby the reverse of comfortable. But
the feeUng of fretfulness natural on such an occa
sion, lasted no longer than tiU the day dawned,
and the Une of march was again formed; when
their former good humour returning, and seasoned,
in some degree, by the fatigues of yesterday, the
troops moved on in exceUent order, and in the
highest spirits.
The route to-day was different, in many respects,
from that of yesterday. In the first place, we had
now got beyond the stretch of cultivation, and were
proceeding through forests of immeasurable extent ;
this, of itself, gave a very different aspect to all
around, because hitherto we had seen houses and

NOTTINGHAM. 101
fields of corn on each side of the road, and now we
could discover nothing but wild savannahs, appa
rently untenanted by a single human being. In the
next place, we learnt from some of the country-
people, who had been impressed as guides into our
service, that numerous detached bodies of rifle-men
lay in ambush amid the thickets ; and the very
expectation of something to do, created a degree
of excitement which, till now, we had not expe
rienced. In consequence of this information, the
flank patroles were strengthened, and commanded
to extend to a greater distance ; the advanced guard
marched at a greater interval from the head of the
column, and the whole army moved forAvard with
more caution and circumspection than had hitherto
been used.
The low cunning which forms a leading trait in
the American character, has long been proverbial ;
and the desire to over-reach and deceive, so uni
versal among the people of that nation, is no less
notorious : yet I had no conception, till experience
taught me otherwise, that they would have the
foUy to bring these dispositions with them into the
field. I am tempted to make these, perhaps iUi-
beral remarks, by the remembrance of a little ad
venture which occurred to myself during this day's
march, and which, as at the time it had something
in it truly comical, I cannot resist the inclination
of repeating, though aware that its title to drol-
11 3

102 NOTTINGHAM.
lery must in a great measure be lost in the relation.
Having been informed that in a certain part of the
forest, a -company of rifle-men had passed the night,
I took with me a party of soldiers, and proceeded
in the direction pointed out, with the hope of sur
prising them. On reaching the place, I found that
they had retired, but I thought I could perceive
something Uke the glitter of arms a little farther
towards the middle of the wood. Sending several
files of soldiers in different directions, I contrived
to surround the spot, and then moving forward, I
beheld two men dressed in black coats, and armed
with bright firelocks and bayonets, sitting under a
tree; as soon as they observed me, they started up
and took to their heels, but being hemmed in on
all sides, they quickly perceived that to escape was
impossible, and accordingly stood stiU. I hastened
towards them, and having got within a few paces
of where they stood, I heard the one say to the
other, with a look of the most perfect simplicity,
"Stop, John, till the gentlemen pass." There was
something so ludicrous in this speech, and in the
cast of countenance which accompanied it, that I
could not help laughing aloud ; nor was my iriirth
diminished by their attempts to persuade me that
they Avere quiet country people, come out for no
other purpose than to shoot squirrels. When I
desired to know whether they carried bayonets to
charge the squirrels, as well as musquets to shoot

NOTTINGHAM. 103
them, they were rather at loss for a reply ; but
they grumbled exceedingly when they found them
selves prisoners, and conducted as such to the
column. But to return to the principal narrative. The
army had now advanced within a few miles of
Nottingham, and the men were beginning to look
forward, with some anxiety, to a halt ; but as yet,
nothing beyond the capture of a few stragglers had
occurred to confirm the rumours which, in the
morning, and during the whole of the march, had
occasioned so much more circumspection than ap
peared to be requisite. The day was likewise far
spent, and, as was to be expected, the ranks were
beginning to be less carefully preserved, when a
smart firing in the wood upon the right of the
road, gave new life and energy to the soldiers. It
was now confidently expected, that the enemy
would make a stand. The column closed its order,
ready to wheel into Une in a moment, and every
thing was on the qui vive: but it proved to be no
more than a rencounter between a party of Ame
rican rifle-men and the flank patrole. After firing
a few shots, the enemy gave way, and our main
body, which had continued to move on during the
skirmish, came in without the slightest opposition,
to the town of Nottingham.
We found this place (a town or large viUage,
capable of containing from a thousand to fifteen
H 4

104 NOTTINGHAM.
hundred inhabitants) completely deserted. Not an
individual was to be seen in the streets, or remained
in the houses ; while the appearance of the furni
ture, &c., in some places the very bread left in the
ovens, shoAved that it had been evacuated in great
haste, and immediately before our arrival. The
town itself stands upon the banks of the Patuxent,
and consists of four short streets, two running pa
rallel with the river, and two others crossing them
at right angles. The houses are not such as indi
cate the wealth or grandeur of the owners, being
in general built of wood, and little superior to cot
tages ; but it is surrounded by others of a much
better description, which .convey the idea of good
substantial farm-houses, a species of mansion very
common in the United States. For several miles
round, the country was in a high state of cultiva
tion ; but instead of the maize and wheat which
we had hitherto seen, the fields were covered with
an abundant and luxuriant crop of tobacco. This
plant seems, indeed, to be at aU times the staple
commodity of that district ; for, besides what was
growing and unripe, we found numerous barns
fiUed with the remains of last year's crop; the
whole of which was of course seized in the name
of His Majesty, King George the Third. But in
the main object of our pursuit we were disap
pointed. The flotilla, which had been stationed
opposite to Nottingham, retired, on our approach.

MARLBOROUGH. 105
higher up the stream ; and we were consequently
in the situation of a huntsman who sees his hounds
at fault, and has every reason to apprehend that
his game will escape.
In this posture, the army continued during the
night, having its right defended by the river, and
its left extending considerably beyond the town;
and secured, as usual, by a connected chain of
outposts ; nor was it put in motion, as had been
done the day before, as soon as there was sufficient
light to distinguish objects. There seemed, indeed,
to be something like hesitation as to the course to
be pursued, — whether to follow the gun -boats, or
to return to the shipping ; but, at last, the former
proceeding was resolved upon, and the column set
forward about eight o'clock, in the direction of
Marlborough, another village, about ten miles be
yond Nottingham. The road by which we tra
velled, as well to-day as during the whole of this
excursion, was remarkably good ; in some places
rather heavy, from being cut through a sandy soil,
but4n general hard, dusty, and, to use an expressive
phrase, having a sound bottom. Running, as it
did for the most part, through the heart of thick
forests,' it was also well sheltered from the rays of
the sun ; a circumstance which, in a cUmate like
this, is of no sUght importance. To-day, our whole
journey was of this description, nor did we reach a
single cultiA-ated spot till we approached the vicinity

106 MARLBOROUGH.
of Marlborough ; then, indeed, we found ourselves
in a country not more fertile than beautiful. The
ground, which had been hitherto perfectly flat, was
now broken into the most graceful swells, gene
rally cleared of wood to within a short space of the
summits, and then crowned with hoar and venerable
forests. The village itself lies in a vaUey, formed
by two such hills ; the distance from the base of
one hiU to the base of the other, may be about two
mUes, the whole of which was laid out in fields of
corn, hay, and tobacco ; whilst the slopes them
selves were covered with sheep, for whose support
they furnished ample means. But Marlborough is
not, like an English village, compact, and consist
ing of one or two lanes : the houses are scattered
over the plain, and along the sides of the hills, at
considerable intervals from one another, and are aU
surrounded by orchards and gardens, abounding in
peaches and other fruits of the most deUcious fla
vour. To add to the beauty of this place, a small
rivulet makes its way through the bottom, and
winding round the foot of one of these ridges, falls
into the Patuxent, which flows at its back.
During our progress to-day, the same caution
Avas observed which had been practised yesterday.
Nor was it altogether unnecessary, several bodies
of the enemy's horse occasionally showing them
selves ; and what appeared to be the rear-guard of
a column of infantry evacuating Marlborough, as

MARLBOROUGH. 107
our advance entered. There was, however, Uttle or
no skirmishing, and we were aUowed to remain in
the village all night without molestation. But if
we were not harassed, we were at least startled on
the march by several heavy explosions. The cause
of these we were at first unable to discover ; but
we soon learnt that they were occasioned by the
bio win g'^ up of the very squadron of which we were
in pursuit ; which Commodore Barney, perceiving
the impossibility of preserving, prudently destroyed,
in order to prevent its falling into our hands.
In Marlborough we remained not only during
the night, but till past noon on the following day.
The hesitation which had caused the loss- of a few
hours at Nottingham, again interfered, and pro
duced a delay which might have been attended
with serious consequences. At length, however,
orders were given to form, and we quitted Marl
borough about two in the afternoon, taking the
road to Washington. During this day's march,
there was more skirmishing than had yet occurred.
We had scarcely got above three miles from the
viUage, when the advanced guard fell in with a
party of rifle-men, who maintained a sharp contest
before they gave way. The column, however,
continued to move on without molestation, tiU
arriving at a point where two roads meet," the one
leading to Washington, the other to Alexandria,
a strong body of troops, with some artiUery, were

108 WOODYARD.
observed upon the slope of a height opposite. The
capture of Washington was now the av^owed ob
ject of our invasion, but the General, like an ex
perienced officer, was desirous of keeping his enemy
in the dark, as to his plan of operations. While
the advanced guard, therefore, reinforced by two
additional companies, marched directly forward to
dislodge the party from the heights ; the rest of
the army wheeled to the left, taking the road
which leads, not to Washington, but to Alexan
dria. These movements were not lost upon the
enemy ; who, observing by the dust in what di
rection the main body had filed off, immediately
began to retreat, without waiting for the approach
of the detachment sient against them. As they as
cended the hill, however, they made a show of halt
ing and forming a line. Our men moved steadily
'on, in column, covered by one company in extended
order along the front, but the enemy having merely
thrown a few round shot, with great precision,
among the skirmishers, broke once again into
marching order, and were quickly hid by the
rising ground. As soon as they had disappeared,
the advance halted ; and having remained for about
an hour on a Uttle hill, to watch their motions,
turned to the left, and followed the rest of the
army, which they found advantageously posted at
a place called Woodyard.

AVOODYARD. 109

LETTER IX.
I HAD almost forgotten to inform you, that from
the first moment of our landing, the want of cavalry,
so useful in obtaining information, and reconnoi
tering the open country, was very sensibly felt.
To remedy this evil, as far as it could by such
means be remedied, orders had been issued to catch
and bring in all the horses that were found in the
fields or stables of any houses along the road ; and
these orders being punctuaUy obeyed, there were
now fifty or sixty in the camp. Upon these some
of the artillery drivers were mounted, and the com
mand of the troop being given to an officer of
experience, it was found of great service during
the remainder of the march.
The advanced guard having joined the main
body, the whole army, with the exception of a
party which had been sent to the rear, to bring up
a convoy of provisions, was now bivouacked upon
a rising ground, weU defended by hedge rows and
thickets. The night, however, was not spent in
as much quietness as usual. It was late before the
troops got to the ground ; consequently the piquets.

110 MARCH TO WASHINGTON.
for want of light, could not be posted in their cus
tomary good order, neither had there been timp to
examine the country in the neighbourhood of the
position. The out-posts were, therefore, kept in a
, state of constant anxiety by the frequent appear
ance of small parties of the enemy, who hovered
about, probably with the design of cutting off
stragglers, or perhaps of surprising, if they could,
some of the piquets themselves. But whatever
their intentions might be, the vigilance of the
sentries contrived to render them abortive, nor
did any thing occur, during the night, produc
tive of serious alarm ; and the following day, being
joined by the convoy, which came up in safety, the
column was again in motion, hastening across the
country into the high road, which had been de
serted for no other purpose than to mislead the
Americans. Having started, on the 24th, at an early hour,
our march was, for some time, both cool and
agreeable. The road, if road it could be caUed,
wound for the first five miles through the heart of
an immense forest, and being, in every sense of the
Avord, a by-path, was completely overshadowed by
projecting branches of trees, so closely interwoven,
as to prevent a single sun-beam from making its
way, even at noon, Avithin the arch. We con
tinued to move on, therefore, long after the sun
had risen, without being sensible that there was

MARCH TO AVASHINGTON. Ill
not a cloud in the sky to screen us from his in fl -
ence ; whilst a heavy moisture, continually emitted
from the grass and weeds on both sides of us, pro
duced a coolness, which, had it been less confined,
would have been extremely pleasant. So far, then,
we proceeded without experiencing any other in
convenience than what was produced by the damp
and foetid atmosphere which we breathed ; but no
sooner had we begun to emerge from the woods,
and to enter the open country, than an overpow
ering change was perceived. The sun, from
which we had been hitherto defended, now beat
upon us in fuU force ; and the dust rising in thick
masses from under our feet, without a breath of
air to disperse it, flew directly into our faces, occa
sioning the greatest inconvenience both to the
eyes and respiration. I have stated this to you, at
length, because I do not recollect a period of my
life when I suffered more severely from heat and
fatigue ; and as a journey of a few mUes, under
such circumstances, tells more than one of thrice
the distance in a cool day, and along a firm wintry
road, you cannot wonder that before many hours
had elapsed, numbers of men began to faU behind,
from absolute inability to keep up.
Yet, in spite of aU this, there was that in to-day's
march which rendered it infinitely more interesting
than any we had performed since the landing. We
had learnt, from various quarters, that the enemy

112 MARCH TO WASHINGTON.
was concentrating his forces for the purpose of
hazarding a battle in defence of his capital. The
truth of these rumours we had no cause to doubt,
confirmed as they were by what we had ourselves
witnessed only the evening before ; and the aspect
of various fields on each side of the high road,
(which we had now regained,) where smoking ashes,
bundles of straw, and remnants of broken victuals
were scattered about, indicated that considerable
bodies of troops had passed the night in this neigh
bourhood. The appearance of the road itself,
likewise, imprinted as it was with fresh marks of
many feet and hoofs, proved that these troops could
be no great way before us ; whilst our very prox
imity to Washington, being now distant from it
not more than ten or twelve miles, all tended to
assure us, that we should at least see an American
army before dark.
It was now that we experienced the great use
fulness of our badly mounted troopers, or as they
were called by the private soldiers our cossacks.
The country, from being extremely close, had be
come open on every side to a considerable extent,
although thick groves, instead of hedges, frequently
separated one field from another. This was exactly
the ground on which cavalry could act with ad
vantage ; because they might lie in ambush be
hind these groves, totally^ unperceived, and when
an opportunity offered, charge the column, before

MARCH. 113
it had time to prepare for their reception. There
were one or two places, indeed, where such events
were confidently anticipated ; whole rows of paling
having been pulled up from the side of the road,
and open spaces left, through which several squad
rons of horse might gaUop ; and the consequence
was that every man held his breath in expectation,
and prepared himself to form square in a moment.
It was here, I say, that the mounted drivers became
peculiarly useful. They were divided into small
parties of six or eight, and sent out in different
directions to reconnoitre, two of them generally
taking post at every suspicious corner, that one
might give notice to the column, while the other
watched the motions of an enemy.
It so happened that these precautions were un
necessary, for whatever might be the strength of
the -Americans in cavalry, their General did not
think fit to employ it in harassing our march. But
the very knowledge that every danger was pro
vided against, and that they could not be attacked
without having time to make ready, gave to the,
soldiers a degree of steady confidence which they
would otherwise have wanted ; and the want of
which, had the case been different, might have
been productive of disorder at a moment when
good order was of vital importance.
We had now proceeded about nine miles, during
the last four of which the sun's rays had beat con-

114 MARCH.
tinuaUy upon us, and we had inhaled almost as
great a quantity of dust as of air. Numbers of
men had already fallen to the rear, and many more
could with difficulty keep up; consequently, if
we pushed on much farther without resting, the
chances were that at least one half of the army
would be left behind. To prevent this from hap
pening, and to give time for the stragglers to over
take the column, a halt was determined upon ;
and being led forward to a spot of ground well
wooded, and watered by a stream which crossed
the road, the troops were ordered to refresh them
selves. Perhaps no halt ever arrived more season
ably than this, or bade fair to be productive of more
beneficial effects ; and yet so oppressive was the
heat, that we had not resumed our march above an
hour, when the banks by the way side were again
covered with stragglers ; some of the finest and
stoutest men in the army being literally unable to
go on.
The hour of noon was approaching, when a
heavy cloud of dust, apparently not more than two
or three miles distant, attracted our attention.
From whence it originated there was little dif
ficulty in guessing, nor did many minutes expire
before surmise was changed into certainty ; for on
turning a sudden angle in the road, and passing a
smaU plantation, which obstructed the vision to
wards the left, the British and American armies

MARCH. 115
became visible to one another. The position oc
cupied by the latter was one of great strength, and
commanding attitude. They were drawn up in
three lines upon the brow of a hiU, having their
front and left flank covered by a branch of the
Potomac, and their right resting upon a thick
wood and a deep ravine. This river, which may
be about the breadth of the Isis at Oxford, flowed
between the heights occupied by the American
forces, and the little town of Bladensburg. —
Across it was thrown a narrow bridge, extending
from the chief street in that town to the continua
tion of the road, which passed through the very
centre of their position ; and its right bank (the
bank above which they Avere drawn up) was
covered with a narrow stripe of willows and larch
trees, whilst the left was altogether bare, low, and
exposed. Such was the general aspect of their
position as at the first glance it presented itself;
of which I must endeavour to give a more de
tailed account, that ray description of the battle
may be in some degree intelligible.
I have said that the right bank of the Potomac
was covered with a narrow stripe of wiUow and
larch trees. Here the Americans had stationed
strong bodies of riflemen, who", in skirmishing
order, covered the whole front of their army. Be
hind this narrow plantation, again, the fields were
open and clear, intersected, at certain distances,
I 2

116 BLADENSBURG.
by rows of high and strong palings. About the
middle of the ascent, and in the rear of one of these
rows, stood the first line, composed entirely of in
fantry ; at a proper interval from this, and in a
similar situation, stood the second line ; while the
third, or reserve, was posted within the skirts of a
wood, which crowned the heights. The artillery,
again, of which they had twenty pieces in the field,
was thus arranged : on the high road, and com
manding the bridge, stood two heavy guns; and
four more, two on each side of the road, swept
partly in the same direction, and partly down the
whole of the slope into the streets of Bladensburg,
The rest were scattered, with no great judgment,
along the second line of infantry, occupying dif
ferent spaces between the right of one regiment,
and the left of another ; while the cavalry showed
itself in one mass, within a stubble field, near the
extreme left of the position. Such was the nature
of the ground which they occupied, and the for
midable posture in which they waited our ap
proach ; amounting, by their own account, to nine
thousand men, a number exactly doubling that of
the force which was to attack them.
In the mean time, our column continued to ad
vance in the same order which it had hitherto pre
served. The road conducted us for about two
miles in a direction parallel with the river, and of
consequence with the enemy's line ; when it sud

BLADENSBURG. 117
denly turned, and led directly towards the town of
Bladensburg. Being of course ignorant whether
this town might not be filled with American troops,
the main body paused hfere, till the advanced guard
should reconnoitre. The result proved that no
opposition was intended in that quarter, and that
the whole of the enemy's army had been withdrawn
to the opposite side of the stream, whereupon the
army was again put in motion, and in a short time
arrived in the streets of Bladensburg, and within
range of the American artillery. Immediately on
our reaching this point, several of their guns opened
upon us, and kept up a quick and weU directed
cannonade, from which, as we were again com
manded to halt, the men were directed to shelter
themselves as much as possible behind the houses.
The object of this halt, it was conjectured, was to
give the General an opportunity of examining the
American line, and of trying the depth of the river ;
because at present there appeared to be but one
practicable mode of attack, by crossing the bridge,
and taking the enemy directly in front. To do so,
however, exposed as the bridge was, must be at
tended with bloody consequences, nor could the
delay of a few minutes produce any mischief
which the discovery of a ford would not amply
compensate. But in this conjecture we were altogether mis
taken ; for without allowing time to the column
I 3

118 BLADENSBURG.
to close its ranks or to be formed by some of the
many stragglers, who were now hurrying, as fast as
weariness would permit, to regain their places, the
order to halt was countermanded, and the word
given to attack ; and we immediately pushed on at
double quick time, towards the head of the bridge.
While we were moving along the street, a con
tinued fire was kept up, with some execution, from
those guns which stood to the left of the road ;
but it was not till the bridge was covered with
our people that the two-gun battery upon the road
itself began to play. Then, indeed, it also opened,
and Avith tremendous effect ; for at the first dis
charge almost an entire company Avas swept down ;
but whether it was that the guns had been pre
viously laid with measured exactness, or that the
nerves of the gunners became afterwards unsteady,
the succeeding discharges were much less fatal.
The riflemen likewise now galled us from the
wooded bank, with a running fire of musketry ; and
it was not without trampling upon many of their
dead -and dying comrades, that the fight brigade
established itself on the opposite side of the stream.
When once there, however, every thing else
appeared easy. Wheeling off to the right and
left of the road, they dashed into the thicket, and
quickly cleared it of the American skirmishers;
who falling back with precipitation upon the first
Une, threw it into disorder before it had fired a

BLADENSBURG. 119
shot. The consequence was, that our troops had
scarcely shown themselves when the whole of that
Une gave way, and fled in the greatest confusion,
leaving the two guns upon the road in possession of
the victors.
But here it must be confessed that the light bri
gade was guilty of imprudence. Instead of pausing
tiU the rest of the army came up, they lightened
themselves by throwing away their knapsacks and
haversacks ; and extending their ranks so as to
show an equal front with the enemy, pushed on to
the attack of the second Une. The Americans, how
ever, saw their weakness, and stood firm, and hav
ing the whole of their artiUery, with the exception
of those captured on the road, and the greater part
of their infantry in this line, they first checked the
ardour of the assailants by a heavy fire, and then,
in their turn, advanced to recover the ground
which was lost. Against this charge, the extended
order of the British troops would not permit them
to offer an effectual resistance, and they were accord
ingly borne back to the very thicket upon the
river's brink ; where they maintained themselves
with determined obstinacy, repeUing all attempts
to drive them through it ; and frequently following,
to within a short distance of the cannon's mouth,
such parts of the enemy's line as gave way.
In this state the action continued tiU the second
brigade had likewise crossed, and formed upon thfe
I 4

120 BLADENSBURG.
right bank of the river ; when the 44th Regiment
moving to the right, and driving in the skir
mishers, debouched upon the left flank of the
Americans, and completely turned it. In that
quarter, therefore, the battle was won ; because
the raw militia-men, who were stationed there as
being the least assailable point, when once broken
could not be rallied. But on their right, the enemy
stiU kept their ground with much resolution ; nor
was it till the arrival of the 4th Regiment^ and the
advance of the British forces in firm array, to the
charge, that they bega.n to waver. Then, indeed,
seeing their left in full flight, and the 44th getting
in their rear, they lost all order, and dispersed, leav
ing clouds of riflemen to cover their retreat; and
hastened to conceal themselves in the woods,
where it would have been vain to follow them.
The rout was now general throughout' the whole
line. The reserve, which ought to have supported
the main body, fled as soon as those in its front
began to give way; and the cavalry, instead of
charging the British troops, 'now scattered in pur
suit, turned their horses' heads and galloped off,
leaving them in undisputed possession of the field,
and of ten out of the twenty pieces of artillery.
This battle, by which the fate of the American
capital was decided, began about one o'clock in
the afternoon, and lasted tiU four. The loss on
the part of the EngUsh was severe, since, out of

BLADENSBURG. 121
two-thirds of the army, which were engaged, up
wards of five hundred men were killed and
wounded ; and Avhat rendered it doubly severe was,
that among these were numbered several officers
of rank and distinction. Colonel Thornton who
commanded the light brigade ; Lieutenant Colonel
Wood commanding the 85th Regiment, and Major
Brown who had led the advanced guard, were all
severely wounded ; and General Ross himself had
a horse shot under him. On the side of the Ame
ricans the slaughter was not so great. Being in
possession of a strong position, they were of course
less exposed in defending, than the others in storm
ing it ; and had they conducted themselves with
coolness, and resolution, it is not conceivable how
the day could have been won. But the fact is,
that, with the exception of a party of sailors from
the gun boats, under the command of Commodore
Barney, no troops could behave worse than they
did. The skirmishers were driven in as soon as
attacked, the first line gave way without offering
the sUghtest resistance, and the left of the main
body was broken within half an hour after it was
seriously engaged. Of the saUors, however, it
would be injustice not to speak in the terms which
their conduct merits. They were employed as
gunners, and not only did they serve their guns
with a quickness and precision which astonished

122 BLADENSBURG.
their assailants, but they stood tiU some of them
were actually bayonetted, with fuses in their
hands ; nor was it tiU their leader was wounded
and taken, and they saw themselves deserted on all
sides by the soldiers, that they quitted the field.
With respect to the British army, again, no Une of
distinction can be drawn. AU did their duty, and
none more gaUantly than the rest ; and- though the
brunt of the affair fell upon the light brigade, this
was owing chiefly to the circumstance of its being
at the head of the column, and perhaps, also, in
some degree, to its own rash impetuosity. The
artillery, indeed, could do little ; being unable to
show itself in presence of a force so superior ;
but the six-pounder was nevertheless brought into
action, and a corps of rockets proved of striking
utUity. Our troops being worn down from fatigue, and
of course as ignorant of the country, as the Ame
ricans were the reverse, the pursuit could not be
continued to. any distance. Neither was it at
tended with much slaughter. Diving into the re
cesses of the forests, and covering themselves with
riflemen, the enemy was quickly beyond our
reach ; and having no cavalry to scour even the
high road, ten of the lightest of their guns were
carried off in the flight. The defeat, however, was
absolute, and the army, which had been collected

BLADENSBURG. 123
for the defence of Washington, was scattered
beyond the possibility of, at least, an immediate
reunion ; and as the distance from Bladensburg
to that city does not exceed four mUes, there ap
peared to be no farther obstacle in the way, to
prevent its immediate capture.

124 WASHINGTON.

LETTER X.
An opportunity so favourable was not endan
gered by any needless delay. While the two
brigades which had been engaged, remained upon
the field to recover their order, the third, which
had formed the reserve, and was consequently un
broken, took the lead, and pushed forward at a
rapid rate towards Washington.
As it was not the intention of the British go
vernment to attempt permanent conquests in this
part of America ; and as the General Avas well
aware that, with a handful of men, he could not
pretend to establish himself, for any length of
time, in an enemy's capital, he determined to lay
it under contribution, and to return quietly to the
shipping. Nor was there any thing unworthy of
the character of a British officer, in this determina
tion. By all the customs of war, whatever pubUc
property may chance to be in a captured town, be
comes, confessedly, the just spoil of the conqueror ;
and in thus proposing to accept a certain sum of
money in lieu of that property, he was showing
mercy, rather than severity, to the vanquished. It
is true, that if they chose to reject his terms, he

AVASHINGTON. 125
and his army Avould be deprived of their booty, be
cause, without some more convenient mode of trans
porting it than we possessed, even the portable
part of the property itself could not be removed.
But, on the other hand, there was no difficulty in
destroying it ; and thus, though we should gain
nothing, the American government would lose pro
bably to a much greater amount than if they had
agreed to purchase its preservation by the money
demanded. Such being the intention of General Ross, he
did not march the troops immediately into the city,
but halted them upon a plain in its immediate
vicinity, whilst a flag of truce was sent in with
terms. But whatever his proposal might have
been, it was not so much as heard ; for scarcely
had the party bearing the flag entered the street,
than they were fired i^pon from the windows of
one of the houses, and the horse of the General
himself, who accompanied them, killed. You will
easily believe, that conduct so unjustifiable, so
direct a breach of the law of nations, roused the
indignation of every individual, from the General
himself down to the private soldier. All thoughts
' of accommodation were instantly laid aside ; the
troops advanced forthwith into the town, and
having first put to the sword all who were found
in the house from which the shots were fired, and
reduced it to ashes, they proceeded, without a

126 WASHINGTON.
moment's delay, to burn and destroy every thing
in the most distant degree connected with Govern
ment. In this general devastation were included
the Senate-house, the President's palace, an ex
tensive dock-yard and arsenal, barracks for two or
three thousand men, several large store-houses
filled Avith naval and military stores, some hundreds
of cannon of different descriptions, and nearly
twenty thousand stand of small arms. There were
also two or three public rope-works which shared
the same fate, a fine frigate pierced for sixty guns,
and just ready to be launched, several gun-brigs
and armed schooners, with a variety of gun-boats
and small craft. The powder magazines were of
course set on fire, and exploded with a tremendous
crash, throwing down many houses in their vici
nity, partly by pieces of the waUs striking them,
and partly by the concussion of the air ; whilst
quantities of shot, shell, and hand-grenades, which
could not otherwise be rendered useless, were
thrown into the river. In destroying the cannon,
a method was adopted, which I had never before
witnessed, and which, as it was both effectual and
expeditious, I cannot avoid relating. One gun of
rather a small calibre, was pitched upon as the
executioner of the rest; and being loaded with
ball, and turned to the muzzles of the others, it
Avas fired, and thus beat out their breechings.
Many, however, not being mounted, could not be

WASHINGTON. 127
thus dealt with ; these were spiked, and having
their trunions knocked off, were afterAvards cast
into the bed of the river.
All this was as it should be, and had the arm of
vengeance been extended no farther, there would
not have been room given for so much as a whisper
of disapprobation. But, unfortunately, it did not
stop here ; a noble library, several printing-offices,
and all the national archives were likewise com
mitted to the flames, which, though no doubt the
property of Government, might better have been
spared. It is not, however, my intention to join
the outcry, which will probably be raised, against
what they Avill term a line of conduct at once
barbarous and unprofitable. Far from it ; on the
contrary, I cannot help admiring the forbearance
and humanity of the British troops, since, irritated
as they had every right to be, they spared as far as
was possible, all private property, not a single house
in the place being plundered or destroyed, except
that from which the general's horse had been
kiUed ; and those which were accidentally thrown
down by the explosion of the magazines.
While the third brigade was thus employed,
the rest of the army, having recalled its stragglers,
and removed the wqunded into Bladensburg, began
its march towards Washington. Though the battle
was ended by four o'clock, the sun had set before
the different regiments were in a condition to.

128 WASHINGTON.
move, consequently this short journey was per
formed in the dark. The work of destruction had
also begun in the city, before they quitted their
ground ; and the blazing of houses, ships, and
stores, the report of exploding magazines, and the
crash of falling roofs, informed them, as they pro
ceeded, of what was going forward. You can con
ceive nothing finer than the sight which met them
as they drew near to the town. The sky was bril
liantly illumined by the different conflagrations ;
and a dark red light was throAvn upon the road,
sufficient to permit each man to view distinctly
his comrade's face. Except the burning of St. Se
bastian's, I do not recoUect to have witnessed, at
any period of my life, a scene more striking or
more sublime.
Having advanced as far as the plain, where the
reserve had previously paused, the first and second
brigades halted ; and, forming into close column,
passed the night in bivouac. At first, this was
agreeable enough, because the air was mild, and
weariness made up for what was wanting in com
fort. But towards morning, a violent storm Of
rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning,
came on, which disturbed the rest of all those who
were exposed to it. Yet^ in spite of the disagree^
ableness of getting wet, I cannot say that I felt
disposed to grumble at the interruption, for it ap*
peared that what I had before considered as super-

WASHINGTON. 129
latively sublime. stUl wanted this to render it
complete. The flashes of lightning seemed to vie
in briUiancy, with the flames which burst from
the roofs of burning houses, while the thunder
drowned the noise of crumbling walls, and was only
interrupted by the occasional roar of cannon, and
of large depots of gunpowder, as they one by one
exploded. I need scarcely observe, that the consternation of
the inhabitants was complete, and that to them this
was a night of terror. So confident had they been
of the success of their troops, that few of them had
dreamt of quitting their houses, or abandoning the
city ; nor was it till the fugitives from the battle
began to rush in, filling every place as they came
with dismay, that the President himself thought of
providing for his safety. That gentleman, as I was
credibly informed, had gone forth in the morning
with the army, and had continued among his troops
till the British forces began to make their appear
ance. Whether the sight of his enemies cooled his
courage or not, I cannot say, but, according to my
informer, no sooner was the glittering of our arms
discernible, than he began to discover that his pre
sence was more wanted in the senate than with
the army ; and having ridden through the ranks,
and exhorted every man to do his duty, he hurried
back to his own house, that he might prepare a
feast for the entertainment of his officers, when
K

130 WASHINGTON,
they; should return Arictorious. For the truth of
these detaUs, I wiU not be answerable ; but this
much I know, that the feast was actually prepared,
though^ instead of being devoured by American
officers, it went to satisfy the less delicate appetites
of a party of EngUsh soldiers. When the detach
ment, sent out to destroy Mr. Maddison's house;
entered his dining parlour, they found a dinner-
table spread, and covers laid for forty guests. Se
veral kinds of wine, in handsome cut-glass decanters,
were cooUng on the side-board ; plate-holders stood
by the fire-place, fiUed with dishes and plates ;
knives, forks and spoons, were arranged for imme
diate use ; in short, every thing was ready for the
entertainment of a ceremonious party. Such were
the arrangements in the dining-room, whUst in the
kitchen were others answerable to them in every
respect. Spits, loaded with joints of various sorts,
turned before the fire ; pots, saucepans, and other
culinary utensils, stood upon the grate ; and aU
the other requisites for an elegant and substantial
repast, were exactly in a state which indicated
that they had been lately and precipitately aban
doned. You wiU readily imagine, that these preparations
were beheld, by a party of hungry soldiers, with
no indifferent eye. An elegant dinner, even though
considerably over-dressed, was a luxury to which
few .of them, at least for some time back, had been

AVASHINGTON. 131
accustomed ; and which, after the dangers and fa
tigues of the day, appeared peculiarly inviting.
They sat down to it, therefore, not indeed in the
most orderly manner, but with countenances which
would not have disgraced a party of aldermen at a
civic feast ; and having satisfied their appetites
with fewer complaints than would have probably
escaped their rival gourmands, and partaken pretty
freely of the wines, they finished by setting fire to
the house which had so liberally entertained
them. But, as I have just observed, this was a night
of dismay to the inhabitants of Washington. They
were taken completely by surprise ; nor could the
arrival of the flood be more unexpected to the na
tives of the antediluvian world, than the arrival
of the British army to them. The first impulse
of course tempted them to fly, and the streets
were in consequence crowded with soldiers and
senators, men, women and children, horses, car
riages, and carts loaded with household furniture^
aU hastening towards a wooden bridge which
crosses the Potomac. The confusion thus occa
sioned was terrible, and the crowd upon the bridge
was such as to endanger its giving way. But Mr.
Maddison, having escaped among the first, was no
sooner safe on the opposite bank of the river, than
he gave orders that the bridge should be broken
down ; which being obeyed, the rest were obliged
K 2

132 WASHINGTON.
to return, and to trust to the clemency of the
victors. In this manner was the night passed by both
parties ; and at day-break next morning, the Ught
brigade moved into the city, whUe the reserve feU
back to a height, about half a mile in the rear.
Little, however, noAv remained to be done, because
every thing marked out for destruction, was already
consumed. Of the senate-house, the President's
palace, the barracks, the dock-yard, &c. nothing
could be seen, except heaps of smoking ruins ;
and even the bridge, a noble structure upwards of
a mile in length, was almost wholly demolished.
There was, therefore, no farther occasion to scatter
the troops, and they were accordingly kept together
ias much as possible on the Capitol hUl.
Of the city of Washington, I have purposely
declined attempting any minute description, be
cause it possesses no leading features, by catching
which one might convey to a person who has not
seen it, something Uke an accurate notion of the
whole. It is, as you are weU aware, completely in
its infancy, few of the streets being finished, and
many containing not more than three or four
houses at wide intervals from each other. But
from its situation, it derives every possible advan
tage, and if it continue to be the capital of the
United States for another century, it wiU become,
I doubt not, one of the most flourishing cities in

WASHINGTON. 133
the world. America is, and ahvays wiU be, a
commercial nation, nor can a single town through
out the whole of that vast continent boast of a
better harbour than Washington. It stands upon
the Potomac, one of the most navigable of aU the
rivers that empty themselves into the Chesapeake ;
the depth of which is sufficient to float a frigate
for some way above the town ; it therefore pos
sesses many faciUties for the carrying on of an ex
tensive trade ; whilst its distance from the coast is
such as to place it, in a great measure, beyond
reach of insult from an enemy. To state this
latter as one of its advantages, may appear para
doxical in one who has just related the particulars
of its capture ; but the truth is, that this capture
was brought about more by the extreme folly of
the American government, and their absurd con
fidence that it would never be attempted, than by
any other cause. Had the emergency been con
templated, and in a proper manner provided against,
or had any skiU and courage been displayed
in retarding the progress of our troops, the de
sign, if formed at aU, would have been either
abandoned immediately, or must have ended in
the total destruction of the invaders.
Like other infant towns, it is but Uttle orna
mented with fine bmldings ; for, except the Senate-
house, I reaUy know of none worthy to be noticed.
This, however, is, or rather was, an edifice of great
K 3

134 WASHINGTON.
beauty. It stood, where its ruins now stand, upoft
a mound called the Capitol hiU, and near a trifling
stream named the Tiber ; from which circumstances,
these modern republicans are led to flatter them
selves, that the days are coming when it will rival
in power and grandeur the senate-house of ancient
Rome herself. It w^as built entirely of free-stone,
tastefully worked and highly polished ; and, be
sides its numerous windows, was lighted from the
top by a large and handsome cupola. Perhaps it
could not be said to belong to any decided style
of architecture ; but its tout-ensemble was light,
airy, and elegant. After traversing a wide and
spacious entrance-hall, you arrived at the foot of
a handsome spiral hanging staircase ; on the left
of which were two magnificent apartments, one
above the other, which were occupied as sitting
chambers, by the two houses of representatives.
From these branched off several smaUer rooms,
fitted up as offices, and probably used as such by
the various officers of the state. On the right of the
staircase, again, were two other apartments, equal
in size to those on the left, with a like number
of smaUer rooms, branching off from them. These
were furnished as a public library, the two larger
beuig weU stocked with valuable books, principaUy
in modern languages, and the others filled with
archives, national statutes, acts of legislature, &c.
and used as the private rooms of the Ubrarians.

WASHINGTON. 135
The President's house, on the other hand, though
Ukewise a public building, Avas remarkable for no
thing, except the want of taste exhibited in its
structure. It was small, incommodious, and plain ;
in no respect Ukely to excite the jealousy of a
people peculiarly averse to all pomp or parade, even
in their chief magistrate. Besides these, there were
also a custom-house, several banking-houses, and
a school or college, all claiming to themselves the
distinction of public works ; but in them there was
a plainness amounting almost to coarseness, and a
general air of repubUcanism, by no means imposing.
If you ask me respecting the number of inhabit
ants which Washington contains, I confess that I
cannot pretend to answer the question with any
exactness, but from the extent of ground covered by
what is considered as the town, I should say some
where about sixty thousand. George-town, the
quarter where the President's house stood, is com
pact and regular, containing, I should conceive, at
least twenty thousand souls within itself; nor can
the population of the other quarters be estimated
at less thap double that number.
Such is the city of Washington, of which our
hasty and unfriendly visit did not allow us to take
a very minute account. I return, therefore, to
our OAvn movements.
I have stated above, that our troops were this
day kept as much together as possible upon the
K 4

136 AVASHINGTON.
Capitol hill. But it was not alone on account of
the completion of their destructive labouis, that
this was done. A powerful army of Americans
already began to show themselves upon some
heights, at the distance of two or three miles from
the city ; and as they sent out detachments of
horse even to the very suburbs, for the purpose of
watching our motions, it would have been unsafe
to permit more straggling than was absolutely ne
cessary. The army which we had overthrown the
day before, though defeated, was far from annihi
lated; and having by this time recovered its panic,
began to concentrate itself in our front ; and
presented quite as formidable an appearance as
ever. We learnt, also, that it was joined by a con
siderable force from the back settlements, which had
arrived too late to take part in the action ; and the
report was, that both combined, amounted to nearly
twelve thousand men.
Whether or not it was their intention to attack,
I cannot pretend to say, because it was noon be
fore they showed themselves ; and soon after, when
something like a movement could be discerned in
their ranks, the sky grew suddenly dark, and the
most tremendous hurricane, ever remembered by
the oldest inhabitant in the place, came on. Of
the prodigious force of the wind, it is impossible
for you to form any conception. Roofs of houses
were torn off by it, and whisked into the air Uke

AVASHINGTON. 137
sheets of paper ; while the rain which accompanied
it, resembled the rushing of a mighty cataract,
rather than the dropping of a shower. The dark
ness was as great as if the sun had long set, and
the last remains of twilight had come on, occa
sionally relieved by flashes of vivid Ughtning
streaming through it, which, together with the
noise of the wind and the thunder, the crash of
falUng buildings, and the tearing of roofs as they
were stript from the walls, produced the most ap
palling effect I ever have, and probably ever shall,
witness. This lasted for nearly two hours without
intermission ; during which time, many of the
houses spared by us, were blown down ; and thirty
of our men, besides several of the inhabitants, buried
beneath their ruins. Our column was as completely
dispersed, as if it had received a total defeat ; some
of the men flying for shelter behind waUs and
buildings, and others falling flat upon the ground,
to prevent themselves from being carried away by
the tempest ; nay, such was the violence of the
wind, that two pieces of cannon which stood upon
the eminence, were fairly lifted from the ground,
and borne several yards to the rear.

138 AVASHINGTON.

LETTER XL
When the , hurricane had blown over, the camp
of the Americans appeared to be in as great a state
of confusion as our own ; nor could either party
recover themselves sufficiently during the rest of
the day, to try the fortune of a battle. Of this.
General Ross did not fail to take advantage. He
had already attained all that he could hope, and
perhaps more than he originally expected to attain ;
consequently, to risk another action, would only
be to spill blood for no purpose. Whatever might
be the issue of the contest, he could derive from it
no advantage. If he were victorious, it would not
destroy the necessity which existed of evacuating
Washington ; if defeated, his ruin was certain. To
avoid fighting was, therefore, his object, and per
haps he owed its accomplishment to the fortunate
occurrence of the storm. Be that, however, as it
may, a retreat was resolved upon ; and we now
only waited for night, to put the resolution into
practice. There was, however, one difficulty to be sur
mounted in this proceeding. Of the wounded,
many were so ill, as to preclude all possibility of

AVASHINGTON. 139
their removal, and to leave them in the hands of
an enemy whom we had beaten, was rather a mor
tifying anticipation. But for this there was no
help; and it now only remained to make the best
arrangements for their comfort, and to secure for
them, as far as could be done, civil treatment from
the Americans.
It chanced, that among other prisoners taken at
Bladensburg, was Commodore Barney, an American
officer of much gaUantry and high sense of honour.
Being himself wounded, he was the more likely to
feel for those who were in a similar condition, and
having received the kindest treatment from our
medical attendants, as long as he continued under
their hands, he became, without solicitation, the
friend of his fellow-sufferers. To him, as AveU as
to the other prisoners, was given his parole, and to
his care were our wounded, in a peculiar manner,
intrusted, a trust which he received with the utmost
wilUngness, and discharged with the most praise
worthy exactness. Among other terms, it was
agreed between him and General Ross, that such of
our people as were left behind, should be considered
as prisoners of war, and should be restored to us, as
soon as they were able to travel ; when he and his
countrymen would, in exchange, be released from
their engagements.
As soon as these arrangements were completed,
and darkness had come on, the third brigade.

140 AVASHINGTON.
Avhich was posted in the rear of our army, began
its retreat. Then foUowed the guns, afterwards
the second, and last of aU the Ught brigade,
exactly reversing the order which had been main
tained during the advance. Instead of an advanced
guard, this last now furnished a party to cover the
retreat, and the whole procession was closed by the
mounted drivers.
It being matter of great importance to deceive
the enemy, and to prevent pursuit, the rear of the
column did not quit its ground upon the Capitol
till a late hour. During the day, an order had
been issued that none of the inhabitants should
be seen in the streets after eight o'clock ; and as
fear renders most men obedient, this order was
punctually attended to. All the horses belonging
to different officers, had likewise been removed to
drag the guns, nor was any one aUowed to ride,
lest a neigh, or even the trampling of hoofs, should
excite suspicion. The fires were trimmed, and
made to blaze bright ; and fuel enough left to
keep them so for some hours ; and finally, about
half past nine o'clock, the troops formed in march
ing order, and moved off in the most profound
silence. Not a word was spoken, nor a single in
dividual permitted to step one inch out of his place,
and thus they passed along the streets perfectly
unnoticed, and cleared the town without any alarm
being given. You will imagine that pur pace was

WASHINGTON. 141
none of the most tardy, consequently it was not
long before we reached the ground which had
been occupied by the other brigades. Here we
found a second line of fires blazing in the same
manner as those deserted by ourselves ; and the
same precautions, in every respect, adopted, to in
duce a -belief that our army was still quiet. Be
yond these, again, we found two or three solitary
fires, placed in such order as to resemble those of
a chain of piquets. In short, the deception was
so weU managed, that even we ourselves were at
first doubtful whether the rest of the troops had
withdrawn. By the time we reached the ground where yes
terday's battle had been fought, the moon rose,
and exhibited a spectacle by no means enlivening.
The dead were still unburied, and lay about in
every direction, completely naked. They had been
stripped even of their shirts, and having been ex
posed in this state to the violent rain in 4he morn
ing, they appeared to be bleached to a most unna
tural degree of whiteness. The heat and rain
together, had likewise affected them in a different
manner ; and the smell which arose upon the night
air, was horrible.
There is something, in such a scene as this, ex
tremely humbUng, and repugnant to the feelings of
human nature. During the agitation of a battle,
it is nothing to see men fall in hundreds by your

142 BLADENSBURG.
side. You may look at them, perhaps, for an in
stant, but you do so almost without being yourself
aware of it, so completely are your thoughts car
ried away by the excitation of the moment, and
the shouts of your companions. But when you
come to view the dead in an hour of calmness^
stripped as they generally are, you cannot help re
membering how frail may have been the covering
which saved yourself from being the loathsome
thing on which you are now gazing. For myself,
I confess that these reflections rose within my mind
on the present occasion ; and if any one should say,
that, similarly situated, they would not rise in his, I
should give him no credit for a superior degree of
courage, but might perhaps be inclined to despise
him for his want of the common feelings of a rea
sonable being.
In Bladensburg, the brigade halted for an hour,
while those men who had thrown away their knap?-
sacks endeavoured to recover them. During this
interval, I strolled up to a house which had been
converted into a hospital, and paid a hasty visit
to the wounded. I found them in great pain, and
some of them deeply affected at the thought of
being abandoned by their comrades, and left to the
mercy of their enemies. Yet, in their apprehen
sion of evil treatment from the Americans, the
event proved that they had done injustice to that
people ; who were found to possess at least one

BLADENSBURG. 143
generous trait in their character, namely, that of be
having kindly and attentively to their prisoners.
As soon as the stragglers had returned to their
ranks, we again moved on, continuing to march
without once stopping to rest, during the whole of
the night. Of the fatigue of a night march, none
but those who have experienced it, can form the
smallest conception. Oppressed with the most in
tolerable drowsiness, we were absolutely dozing
upon our legs ; and if any check at the head of the
column caused a momentary delay, the road was
instantly covered with men fast asleep. It is ge
nerally acknowledged, that no inclination is so dif
ficult to resist, as the inclination to sleep ; but
when you are compeUed not only to bear up
against this, but to struggle also with weariness,
and to walk at the same time, it is scarcely possible
to hold out long. By seven o'clock in the morning,
it was therefore absolutely necessary to pause, be
cause numbers had already faUen behind, and
numbers more were ready to follow their example ;
when throwing ourselves upon the ground, almost
in the same order in which we had marched, in less
than five minutes there was not a single unclosed
eye throughout the whole brigade. Piquets were of
course stationed, and sentinels placed, to whom no
rest was granted, but except these, the entire army
resembled a heap of dead bodies on a field of battle,
rather than living men.

144 NOTTINGHAM.
In this situation we remained tiU noon, when we
were again roused to continue the retreat. Though
the sun was oppressively powerful, we moved on
without resting till dark, when having arrived at
our old position near Marlborough, we halted for
the night. During this day's march, Ave were
joined by numbers of negro slaves, who implored
us to take them along with us, offering to serve
either as soldiers or sailors, if we would but give
them their liberty; but as General Ross persisted
in protecting private property of every description,
few of them were fortunate enough to obtain their
wishes. We had now proceeded a distance of thirty-five
miles, and began to consider ourselves beyond the
danger of pursuit. The remainder of the retreat
was therefore conducted with more leisure; our
next march carrying us no farther than Nottingham,
where we remained during an entire day, for the
purpose of resting the troops. It cannot, however,
be said, that this resting time was spent in idleness.
A gun-brig, with a number of ships, launches, and
long boats, had made their way up the stream, and
were at anchor opposite to the town. On board
the former were carried such of the wounded as
had been able to travel, while the latter were
loaded with flour and tobacco, the only spoil which
we found it possible to bring off.
While the infantry were thus employed, the

ST. benedict's. 145
cavalry were sent back as far as Marlborough, to
discover whether there were any American forces
in pursuit ; and it was well for the few stragglers
who had been left behind, that this recognizance
was made. Though there appeared to be no dis
position on the part of the American general to
foUow our steps, and to harass the retreat, the in
habitants of that viUage, at the instigation of a
medical practitioner called Bean, had risen in arms
as soon as we were departed ; and falling upon
such individuals as strayed from the column, put
some of them to death, and made others prisoners.
A soldier whom they had taken, and who had
escaped, gave this information to the troopers, just
as they were about to return to head quarters ;
upon which they immediately wheeled about, and
galloping into the village, pulled the doctor out of
his bed, (for it was early in the morning,) and com
pelled him, by a threat of instant death, to Uberate
his prisoners ; and mounting him before one of the
party, brought him in triumph to the camp.
The wounded, the artillery, and plunder, being
all embarked on the 28th, at day-break on the
29th we took the direction of St. Benedict's, where
we arrived, without any adventure, at a late hour
in the evening. Here we again occupied the
ground of which we had taken possession on
first landing, passing the night in perfect quiet ;
and next day, the boats of the fleet being ready
L

146 ST. BENEDICT S.
to receive us, the regiments, one by one, marched
down to the beach. We found the shore covered
with saUors from the different ships of war, who
welcomed our arrival with loud cheers ; and having
contrived to bring up a larger flotUla than had been
employed in the disembarkation, they removed us
within a few hours, and without the occurrence of
any accident, to our respective vessels.
Having now detailed the particulars of this
brUUant expedition, I may perhaps be pardoned,
if I finish the present letter with a miUtary review
of the conduct of both armies during its con
tinuance. In doing so, however, I am far from
wishing to assume to myself any peculiar know
ledge in these matters. The remarks which I shall
make, are exactly such as would be made by any
man, whether a soldier or not, possessed of the
slightest degree of penetration ; because the errors
committed, as well as the skill displayed, even
by the British general, were too apparent to escape
notice. To begin, then, with the conquerors. The great
error of General Ross appears to have been a want
of sufficient confidence in himself. Nor is it sur
prising that he was thus diffident ; because, though
an officer of great courage and considerable expe
rience, his service had been hitherto performed in
a subordinate situation. As general of brigade
under Lord Wellington, he had no doubt learned

ST. benedict's. 147
the art of war in an exceUent school ; but he
had, as yet, learned only to obey ; and being
thus suddenly called upon to trust solely to his
own resources, it would have been strange
had he not been in some degree apprehensive of
the event. A general of brigade, as every one
knows, is oppressed with no more responsibiUty
than a colonel commanding a battalion. WTiat-
ever he is directed to do, must be done ; and let
the result be what it will, he is in no shape an
swerable. But place the same man at the head of
an independent army, however trifling in point of
number, the case becomes completely changed ;
since he feels that upon his determinations depend,
not only the success, but the lives and safety -of
his troops. There are few persons so gifted by
nature with the talents of a warrior, as not to ex
perience, when first brought into this situation, a
degree of anxiety which is sure to produce vaciUa-
tion. But in war there is nothing more likely than
this to occasion fatal effects ; since it is better to
persist in a plan, though not the best, than to
distract the minds of your soldiers by continual
changing. Of diffidence. General Ross was cer
tainly guilty, and exhibited it in the loss, first of
three hours at Nottingham, and again of eight
hours at Marlborough. It may be said, indeed,
that unless the capture of Washington was the
original end of the inroad, he should not be
I. 2

148 ST. benedict's.
accused of diffidence by pausing before he under
took it. But to this I cannot agree ; because a
general ought to make up his mind in a moment ;
and surely, three hours afforded sufficient time for
that purpose : and the truth is, that the capture of
Washington was not the original end of the ex
pedition. To destroy the flotUla, was the sole
object of the disembarkation ; and but for the in
stigations of Admiral Cockburn, who accompanied
the army, the capital of America would probably
have escaped its visitation. It was he, who, on
the retreat of that flotilla from Nottingham, urged
the necessity of a pursuit, which was not agreed
to without some wavering ; and it was he also
who suggested the attack upon Washington, and
finaUy prevaUed on General Ross to venture so far
from the shipping.
The next error which I am bound to notice,
was displayed in the battle itself. The troops
were hurried into action after a long and toilsome
march, without having time to close their ranks,
or to cool their parched lips with Avater. No at
tempt was made to discover a ford, by which they
might cross the river, but they were led directly
in the face of a powerful battery, to assault the
very centre of the enemy's position. Had the
Americans been better troops, and in a higher state
of discipline, the consequences of this rash impe
tuosity must have been fatal; since our army

ST. benedict's. 149
might have been attacked in detail, and each bri
gade cut off singly, before the others could arrive
to its support.
I mention this as a glaring fault, because it ap
peared that there was a ford near to the left of the
American position. Now, had part of the army
made a demonstration at the bridge, while the rest
crossed by this ford, the attention of the enemy
would have been drawn to two points instead of
one ; and their left, which after all was turned
before the battle was won, might have been broken
at once, and the victory gained with half the loss.
In attacking an enemy's position, the greater
number of points which you threaten, the more
Ukely will you be to succeed. If, for example,
they behold columns moving upon their right,
their left, and centre, at the same time, it is clear
that they will be unable to change their present
order, because they cannot teU upon what point
the real assault is to fall ; whereas, if you advance
in one body, they see instantly where danger
is to be apprehended, and weaken the rest of their
Une, that they may oppose it. Again, the pre
cipitancy with which the troops were hurried
into fire, prevented the possibility of maintaining
close or firm ranks. The consequence was, that
they could make no head against a charge, and had
the Americans only followed them up, when they
L 3

150 ST. benedict's.
feU back, the destruction of the Ught brigade would
have been inevitable.
Against aU this it may be urged, that nothing
damps the courage of an enemy so much as your
appearing to despise them ; and that in war, more
depends upon celerity of movement, than on the
calculation of chances. The truth of both proposi
tions I fully allow, but I cannot say that I perceive
their weight on the present occasion. To have
remained quiet all night, for the purpose of
attacking at day-break next morning, would un
questionably have been improper ; but to halt for
a single hour, could have produced no fatal delay,
would have refreshed the men, and given time
for stragglers to come up, and might have been
probably attended by the discovery of the ford.
Yet, after all, it is absurd to argue against the
disposition of a battle which has been gained.
Success justifies the measures adopted for securing
it ; and whether those of General Ross were the
most prudent or not, that they succeeded was be
yond all question.
Having now stated what I thought his errors, I
must be permitted,' likewise, to state his exceUen-
cies. In the choice of ground for halting, in the order
both of advancing and retreating, and in the rapidity
of his motions as soon as his plan was arranged, he
displayed the skUl of an able leader. No man
could possess more of a soldier's eye in examining

ST. benedict's. 151
a country, than General - Ross ; and in what little
manoeuvring the circumstances permitted, he exhi
bited the proficiency of one well practised in the
arts of campaigning. It will be recollected, that
on the 23d, the day previous to the battle, we
feU in with a strong body of the enemy, to de
ceive whom, we wheeled off from the main road,
and took the direction of Alexandria. The bait
took completely ; for this party was in fact the
advanced guard of the main army. Thinking that
Alexandria, and not Washington, was threatened,
the American general abandoned a strong position,
which he had seized on the main road ; harassed
his troops by a needless march towards that town ;
and discovered his mistake, only time enough to
occupy the heights of Bladensburg a very few
minutes before we came in sight.
With respect to the Americans, criticism neces
sarily degenerates into unqualified censure. From
the beginning to the end of the affair, they acted
in no one instance like prudent Qr sagacious men.
In the first place, they ought on no account to
have risked a general action in an open country,
however strong and steep; and secondly, they
deserved to suffer much more than they did, for
permitting an enemy's army to penetrate beyond
Nottingham. In aUowing us to land Avithout
opposition, they were perhaps guilty of no great
error ; but as soon as we had landed, instead of
I, 4

152 ST. BENEDICTS.
concentrating their forces in one place, they ought
to have harassed -us with continual skirmishing ;
felled trees on each side, and thrown them across
the road ; dug deep ditches at certain intervals ;
in short, to have adopted the mode of warfare to
which their own habits, as weU as the nature of
their country, invited them.
In America, every man is a shot from his very
boyhood, and every man serves in the mUitia ;
but to bring an army of raw militia-men, however
excellent they might be as shots, into a fair field
against regular troops, could end in nothing but
defeat.- When two Unes oppose each other, very
little depends upon the accuracy with which indi
viduals take aim. It is then that the habit of act
ing in concert, the confidence which each man
feels in his companions, and the rapidity and good
order in which different movements can be exe
cuted, are alone of real service. But put these
raw mUitia-men into thick woods, and send your
regular troops to drive them out, you will imme
diately lose all the advantages of discipline, and
reduce your battle to so many single combats.
Here, therefore, lay their great error ; had they
left all clear, and permitted us to advance as far
as Nottingham, then broken up the roads, and co
vered them with trees, it would have been impos
sible for us to go a step beyond. As soon as this
was effected, they might have skirmished with us

ST. benedict's. 153
in front, and kept our attention alive with part of
their troops, Avhile the rest, acquainted as they doubt
less were with every inch of the country, had got
into our rear, and, by a similar mode of proceeding,
cut off our retreat. Thus we should have been taken
in a snare, from which we could not extricate our
selves, and should have been obliged, in all pro-
babUity, to surrender at discretion.
But this obvious and natural plan of defence,
they chose to reject, and determined to trust all to
the fate of a battle. And here, again, they were
guilty of a monstrous error, in not occupying the
town of Bladensburg with part of their forces.
The most open village, if resolutely defended, will
eost many men before it falls ; whereas Bladens
burg, being composed of substantial brick houses,
might have been maintained for hours against all
our efforts. In the next place, they displayed
great want of military knowledge in the disposition
of both their infantry and artiUery. There was
not, in the whole space of their line, a single point
where an enemy would be exposed to a cross fire.
The troops were drawn up in three straight Unes,
Uke so many regiments upon a gala parade ; while
the guns were used as connecting links to a chain,
being posted in the same order, by ones and twos,
at every interval.
In maintaining themselves, likewise, when at
tacked, they exhibited neither skill nor resolution.

154 ST. benedict's.
Of the personal courage of the Americans, there
can be no ' doubt ; they are, individually taken, as
brave a nation as any in the world. But they are
not soldiers ; they have not the experience nor the
habits of soldiers. It Was the height of folly,
therefore, to bring them into a situation where no
thing except that experience and those habits wiU
avail ; and it is on this account that I repeat what
I have already said, that the capture of Washing
ton was more owing to the faults of the Americans
themselves, than to any other cause.

ALEXANDRIA. 155

LETTER XII.
While the army was thus actively employed, the
fleet did not remain idle. A squadron of frigates,
with two bomb ships, under the command of Cap
tain Gordon, of the Sea-horse, penetrated up the
Potomac, and appeared before Alexandria. The
Avhole of the mUitia of the district was at this time
called away for the defence of the capital, conse
quently no place could be less prepared to resist an
invader, than that city. A party accordingly
landed from the ships without opposition, and
having destroyed the barracks, public works, and
aU the cannon which they found on shore, they
seized a number of schooners and other smaU craft,
then lying in the harbour, and loading them Avith
flour and tobacco, to a considerable amount, pre
pared to rejoin the fleet in the bay.
But by this time the country was alarmed ; a
detachment was sent from the main army, and
being joined by the reserve of miUtia, it was de
termined to intercept the squadron on its return.
With this view, several pieces of heavy cannon
were mounted upon a steep part of the bank,
where the river, in making an angle, narrows con-

156 ALEXANDRIA.
siderably in its channel. Thither, also, hastened
large bodies of infantry, and before the frigates
had begun to weigh anchor, nearly 5,000 men
were assembled to prevent their passage.
Of these preparations Captain Gordon did not
long remain ignorant ; nor was he backward in
making the best arrangements possible to meet the
danger. By shifting the ballast in each of the
vessels entirely to one side, he caused them to lean
in such a manner as that their artillery could be
elevated to a surprising degree, and the shot rise
even to the summit of the hill.' The guns were
then stuffed, rather than loaded, with grape shot
and musket-balls ; and the ships, taking their sta
tions according to their draft of water, the Ughtest
keeping nearest to the enemy's shore, set sail, and,
favoured by a leading breeze, stood leisurely down
the river.
As soon as they arrived within tangible dis
tance, a brisk cannonade was opened 'upon them
from the heights, and the whole of the infantry
appeared in line along the brow of the eminence.
Regardless of these formidable salutations, the
ships continued to hold their course without
changing their order, or returning a shot, tiU they
reached the base of the hill upon which the in
fantry stood, and received a volley of musketry
into their decks. Then, indeed, they answered
the fire ; and, with such effect, that at the' first

ALEXANDRIA. 157
broadside the enemy's guns were abandoned, and
their infantry took to flight. The Americans had
persuaded themselves that no ship could point her
guns so as to reach the top of the hiU ; and under
this idea had drawn up their troops along the
ridge with the intention of overawing the squa
dron by a display of their numbers. But in the
event they found themselves mistaken, for so weU
had Captain Gordon arranged matters, that not a
single shot fell under its mark ; and the conse
quence was, that, prepared as the ships were for
the occasion, a shower of balls of every size and
description came amongst them, such as it
was impossible to withstand. A single broad
side was sufficient to secure the safe passage of
his squadron; but with this Captain Gordon was
not contented. Seeing the enemy driven from
their cannon, he immediately landed his marines,
spiked the guns, and blew up the expense maga
zines ; when, having received them all safely on
board again, he continued his voyage, and re
gained the Chesapeake without farther molesta
tion. Nor was this the only operation in which the
navy were employed. Cruising about in every
direction, they threatened the whole line of coast,
from the entrance to the very bend of the bay ;
and thus kept the Americans, in a constant state
of alarm. Whenever a favourable opportunity

158 ALEXANDRIA.
presented itself, parties landed, plundered or de
stroyed the government stores, laid towns and
districts under contribution, and brought off aU
the shipping which could be reached. In a word,
the hostilities carried on in the Chesapeake re
sembled the expeditions of the ancient Danes
against Great Britain, rather than a modern war
between civilized nations. But these hasty ex
cursions, though generally successful, were not
always performed without loss to the invaders.
Many men and some officers were kUled and
wounded, among whom was Captain Sir Peter
Parker, of the Menelaus frigate, an officer distin
guished for his gallantry, and knowledge of naval
tactics. Having learnt that an encampment of 300
men and six pieces of cannon had been formed, at
the distance of a few miles from the banks of the Po
tomac, and about nine leagues below Alexandria, he
determined, with part of his ship's crew, to surprise
it, and to capture the guns. Running his frigate
with this view up the river, he cast anchor oppo
site to the place where the American forces lay ;
and leaving on board only a sufficient number of
sailors to manage the ship, and to guard against
surprise, with the rest, amounting to 200 seamen
and marines, he landed, and marched rapidly to
wards the enemy's camp. But intelligence of his
proceedings had already reached them; patroles
of horse hovering continually along the coast for

THE PATUXENT. 159
the purpose of watching the motions of our fleet.
When, therefore, he arrived at the point of desti
nation, he found the bivouac deserted, and the
rear-guard in full retreat. With these a little skir
mishing ensued, and he received a rifle-ball in the
thigh. Not suspecting that the wound was dan
gerous, he continued to push forward, till he fell
exhausted from loss of blood ; when, on examin
ing the hurt, it was found that the femoral
artery was cut ; and before any proper assistance
could be afforded, he literally bled to death. See
ing their leader killed, and the enemy retiring
apparently with the design of drawing them away
from the coast, the sailors now halted ; and taking
up their dead commander, returned to the river
without having been able to effect any thing
which might, in any degree, console them for
their loss.
In the mean time the army continued, for some
days, quietly on board the ships in the Patuxent,
The wounded, whose cases appeared most despe
rate, vvere removed to vessels fitted up for their
reception, and sailed, some for Halifax, and others
for England. The dispatches were likewise made
out and sent off in the Iphigenia, whilst a sort of
breathing time was given to those who had been
lately so actively employed. While this sabbath
continued, I amused myself by landing ; and,
under the pretext of shooting, strolled, sometimes.

160 THE PATUXENT.
farther up the country than prudence exactly war
ranted. The houses and villas, upon the imme
diate banks of the river, I found universally de
serted, and thoroughly plundered. The corn,
however, was uninjured, and even flocks of sheep
were seen grazing within a short distance of the
water, protected only by negro slaves. Of these
none were taken without an equivalent being as
faithfuUy paid, as if they had been sold in the
market-place of New York ; a circumstance which
favoured the belief that the houses had been ran
sacked, not by the British troops, but by the inha
bitants themselves. Whether it was reaUy so or
not I cannot say, but this I know, that from the
time of our arrival in the Chesapeake, aU acts of
individual plunder or violence were strictly prohi
bited, and severely punished.
But this appearance of ruin and desertion ex
tended not more than a mile or two from the coast.
Beyond that, I found the cottages occupied by their
owners, and every thing remaining as if no enemy
were within a hundred miles. The young men,
indeed, were generally absent, because every man
fit to bear arms was now serving with the army ;
but the old men and the women seemed to live as
comfortably as if the most profound peace had
reigned throughout the State. Nor did I find
them altogether so hostile to our interest, as I had
expected. They professed to be Federalists ; and

THE PATUXENT. 161
though they regretted the events of the war, they
blamed their own rulers for its commencement.
Tempted by this show of quietness I one day con
tinued my walk to a greater distance from the
fleet than I had yet ventured to do. My servant
was with me, but had no arms, and I was armed
only with a double-barreUed fowling-piece. Hav
ing wearied myself with looking for game, and
penetrated beyond my former land-mark, I came
suddenly upon a small hamlet, occupying a piece
of cleared ground in the very heart of a thick
wood. With this, to confess the truth, I was by
no means delighted, more especially as I perceived
two stout-looking men sitting at the door of one
of the cottages. To retire, unobserved, was, how
ever, impossible, because the rustling which I had
made among the trees drew their attention, and
they saw me, probably, before I had seen them.
Perceiving that their eyes were fixed upon me, I
determined to put a bold face upon the matter;
and calling aloud, as if to a party to halt, I ad
vanced, with my servant, towards them. They
were dressed in sailors' jackets and trowsers, and
rose on my approach, taking off their hats with
much civiUty. On joining them, I demanded
whether they were not EngUshmen, and deserters
from the fleet, stating that I was in search of two
persons very much answering their description.
They assured me that they were Americans, and
M

162 THE PATUXENT.
no deserters, begging that I would not take them
away ; a request to which, after some time, I as
sented. They then conducted me into the house,
where I found an old man, and three women, who
entertained me with bread, cheese, and new milk.
WhUe I was sitting here, a third youth, in the
dress of a labourer, entered, and whispered to one
of the sailors, who immediately rose to go out, but
I commanded him to sit still, declaring that I was
not satisfied, and should certainly arrest lum if he
attempted to escape. The man sat down sulkily ;
and the young labourer coming forward, begged
permission to examine my gun. This was a re
quest which I did not much relish, and with which
I, of course, refused to comply ; teUing the feUow
that it was loaded, and that I was unwUling to
trust it out of my own hand, on account of a
weakness in one of the locks.
I had now kept up appearances as long as they
could be kept up, and, therefore, rose to withdraw ;
a measure to which I was additionally induced by
the appearance of two other countrymen at the
opposite end of the hamlet. I, therefore, told the
saUors that if they would pledge themselves to re
main quietly at home, without joining the Ame
rican army^ I would not molest them ; warning
them, at the same time, not to venture beyond the
village, lest they should faU into the hands of other
parties, who were also in search of deserters. The

THE PATUXENT. 163
promise they gave, but not with much alacrity,
when I rose, and keeping my eye fixed upon them,
and my gun ready cocked in my hand, walked out,
foUowed by my servant. They conducted us to
the door, and stood staring after us till we got to
the edge of the wood ; when I observed them
moving towards their countrymen, who also gazed
upon us, without either advancing or flying. You
wUl readily beUeve, that as soon as we found our
selves concealed by the trees, we lost no time in
endeavouring to discover the direct way towards
the shipping ; but plunging into the thickets, ran
with aU speed, without thinking of aught except
an immediate escape from pursuit. Whether the
Americans did attempt to follow, or not, I cannot
teU, If they did, they took a wrong direction, for
in something more than an hour I found myself at
the edge of the river, a little way above the ship
ping, and returned safely on board, fully resolved
not again to expose myself to such risks, without
necessity. In this manner the time was spent, tUl day-break
on the 6th of September ; when the whole fleet got
under weigh, and stood towards the Chesapeake.
The wind was fair, and we speedily cleared the
river ; but instead of standing up the bay as we
bad expected, we ran down a few miles below the
mouth of the Patuxent, and there anchored. A
M 2

164 THE PATAPSCO.
signal was then made by telegraph, for all ships to
send in a return of the number of seamen whom,
in addition to marines, they could land with small
arms. Every ship's crew was accordingly mustered,
and it was found that, besides the numbers neces
sary for conveying stores, and dragging guns, one
thousand sailors could be spared from the fleet.
Thus, in spite of our loss at Bladensburg, we were
enabled, on our next debarkation, to bring into the
field about five thousand fighting men.
Next morning we again weighed, and directed
our course towards the Potomac. We entered this
river soon after mid-day, and continued to stem the
stream during the night, and tiU dusk on the fol
lowing day ; when we again brought up. Here
we were joined by Admiral Cockburn, who had
quitted the anchorage some days before the rest of
the fleet, with a large flotilla of prizes and smaU
craft ; and having, on the 9th, once more set sail,
and steered for a few hours in the direction of
Alexandria, we suddenly put about, and, favoured
by a fresh breeze, ran down to the bay, turning our
heads upwards towards the Patapsco. Baltimore,
it was now understood, was the point of attack,
and towards the river, upon which that town is
built, we hastened under a heavy press of sail.
The object of this manoeuvring was evidently
to deceive the enemy, and by keeping him in sus-

THE PATAPSCO. 165
pense as to the place threatened, to prevent his
concentrating his forces, or throwing up works for
its defence. But in the attainment of our object,
the event proved that Ave were but partially suc
cessful. Certain it is, hoAvever, that the utmost
consternation prevailed in every town or vUlage
opposite to which we made our appearance. In
passing Amapolis, a considerable town built upon
the bay, and possessing a tolerable harbour, we
stood in so close as to discern the inhabitants flying
from their houses ; carts and waggons loaded with
furniture, hurrying along the roads, and horsemen
gaUoping along the shore, as if watching the fear
ful moment when the boats should be hoisted out,
and the troops quit the vessels. Wherever a light
house or signal station was erected, alarm-guns
were fired, and beacons lighted. In a word, all
the horrors of doubt and apprehension seemed to
oppress the inhabitants of this devoted district.
The fair wind continuing to blow without in
terruption, on the 11th we came in sight of the
projecting head-land, where it was designed to dis
embark the troops. This was a promontory Avashed
by the Patapsco on one side, and a curvature of
the bay itself on the other. It was determined to
land here, rather than to ascend the river, because
the Patapsco, though broad, is far from deep. It
is, in fact, too shaUow to admit a Une of battle
M 3

166 THE PATAPSCO.
ship ; and, as no one could guess what impediments
might be thrown in the way to obstruct the navi
gation, prudence forbad that five thousand men
should be entrusted to the convoy of the smaller
vessels alone. Besides, the distance from this point
to Baltimore did not exceed fourteen or fifteen
mUes ; a space which might easily be traversed in
a day. But while the land forces moved in this direc
tion upon Baltimore, it was resolved that the fri
gates and bomb-ships should endeavour to force
their way through every obstacle, and to obtain
possession of the navigation of the river, so as, if
possible, to co-operate with the army, by bombard
ing the place from the water. A frigate was ac
cordingly dispatched to try the depth, and to take
sounding of the channel, while the remainder of
the fleet came to an anchor off the point. In the
mean time aU was again bustle and preparation on
board the troop-ships and transports. Three days
provisions were cooked, as before, and given to the
men ; and as we were now to carry every thing
by a coup-de-main, twenty rounds of ammunition
were added to the sixty with which soldiers are
usually loaded; and a smaUer quantity of other
baggage was directed to be taken on shore. A
blanket, with aspare shirt and pair of shoes, was
considered enough for each man on an expedition^

THE PATAPSCO. 167
of SO rapid a nature ; whilst brushes and other
articles of that description were divided between
comrades, one carrying what would suffice for both.
Thus the additional load of twenty cartridges was
more than counter-balanced by the clothing and
necessaries left behind.
It was dusk when we reached the anchorage,
consequently no landing could take place before
the morrow. But as the boats were ordered to
be in readiness at dawn, every man slept in his
clothes, that he might be prepared to start at a
moment's warning. There was something in this
state of preparation at once solemn and exciting.
That we should obtain possession of a place so im
portant as Baltimore, without fighting, was not to
be expected; and, therefore, this arming, and this
bustle seemed, in fact, to be the prelude to a battle.
But no man, of the smallest reflection, can look
forward to the chance of a sudden and violent
death, without experiencing sensations very differ
ent from those which he experiences under any
other circumstances. When the battle has fairly
begun, I may say with truth that the feelings of
those engaged are delightful ; because they are, ia
fact, so many gamblers playing for the highest
stake that can be offered. But the stir and noise
of equipping, and then the calmness and stiUness
of expectation, these are the things which force a
M 4

168 THE PATAPSCO.
man to think. On the other hand, the warUke
appearance of every thing about you, the careless
faces and rude jokes of the private soldiers, and
something within yourself, which I can compare
to nothing more nearly than the mirth which cri
minals are said sometimes to experience and to ex
press previous to their execution ; all these com
bine to give you a degree of false hilarity, I had
almost said painful, from its very excess. It is an
agitation of the nerves, such as we may suppose
madmen feel ; which you are inclined to wish re
moved, though you are unwilUng to admit that it is
disagreeable. And yet, as if in mockery of these deadly pre
parations, I do not recollect to have seen a more
heavenly night than the present. The heat of the
day was past, a fuU clear moon shone brightly, in a
sky where not a cloud could be discerned, and a
heavy dew faUing appeared to refresh the earth
which had been parched and burnt up by the sun.
We lay at this time within two mUes of the shore,
consequently every object there was distinctly
visible. Around us were moored numerous ships,
which, breaking the tide as it flowed gently on
wards, produced a ceaseless murmur like the gush
ing of a mountain stream. The voices of the
sentinels, too, as they relieved one another on the
decks ; and the occasional splash of oars, as a soU-

THE PATAPSCO. 169
tary boat rowed backwards and forwards to the
admiral's ship for orders, sounded peculiarly musi
cal in the perfect stillness of a calm night. Though
I am far from giving the preference, in all respects,
to a sailor's life, it must, nevertheless, be confessed
that it has in it many moments of exquisite de
light ; and the present seemed to me to be of the
number.

170 MARCH.

LETTER XIII.
But the stillness of night soon passed away, and
at three o'clock in the morning every ship in the
fleet began to lower her boats, and the soldiers
were roused from their slumbers. The same pre
cautions which had been formerly used to cover
the landing, were again adopted ; several gun-
brigs laying themselves within cable's length of the
beach, and the leading boats in every division
being armed with carronades, loaded and ready for
action. But, as had been the case at St. Benedict's,
they were unnecessary, for the troops got on shore
without opposition, and leisurely formed in an open
field close to the river.
It was seven o'clock before the whole army was
disembarked, and in order for marching. The
same arrangements which had been made on the
late expedition, were, as far as circumstances would
permit, again adopted on this. The light brigade,
now commanded by Major Jones of the 41st Regi
ment, led the advance ; then followed the artUlery,
amounting to six field pieces, and two howitzers,
all of them drawn by horses ; next came the se-

MARCH. 171
cond brigade, then the saUors, and last of all the
third brigade. Flank patroles, and reconnoitring
parties were likewise sent out ; in short, the same
admirable dispositions regulated the present march,
which had governed our march to Washington.
The column being put in motion, advanced,
without the occurrence of any incident deserving
of notice, for about an hour, when it arrived at a
piece of ground which appeared as if it had been
lately in possession of the enemy. It was a narrow
neck of land, confined between the river on one
side, and the head of a creek on the other, mea
suring, perhaps, a mile across. From the river to
the creek a breast-work had been begun, and was
partly completed. In front of it there were lines
drawn apparently for the purpose of marking out
the width of a ditch ; in some places the ditch
itself was dug, and the commencement of what
resembled an enfilading battery in the centre,
showed that a considerable degree of science had
been displayed in the choice of this spot as a miU
tary position. And, in truth, it was altogether
such a position as, if completed, might have been
maintained by a determined force against very
superior numbers. Both flanks were completely
protected, not only by water, but by thick wood,
while a gentle eminence in the very middle of the
line, offered the most desirable situation for the
projecting battery which had been begun ; because

172 MARCH.
a fire from it would have swept the whole, both
to the right and left. In its present state, how
ever, it was not tenable, unless by a force as able
to attack as to defend ; consequently the Americans,
who acted solely on the defensive, did wisely in
choosing another.
But the aspect of the ground was such as led us
to conclude that the enemy could not be very dis
tant. The troops were accordingly halted, that
the rear mJght be weU up, and the men fresh and
ready for action. While this was done, part of
the flank patrole came in, bringing with them three
Ught-horsemen as prisoners. These were young
gentlemen belonging to a corps of volunteers fur
nished by the town of Baltimore, who had been
sent out to watch our motions, and convey intel-
Ugence to the American general. Being but little
used to such service, they had suffered themselves
to be surprised ; and, instead of reporting to their
own leader as to the number and dispositions of
their adversaries, they were now catechized by
General Ross respecting the strength and prepara
tions of their friends. From them we learned that
a force of no ¦ less than twenty thousand men Avas
embodied for the defence of Baltimore ; but as the
accounts of prisoners are generally over-rated, we
took it for granted that they made this report only
to intimidate.
Having rested for the space of an hour, we

MARCH. 173
again moved forward, but had not proceeded
above a mile when a sharp fire of musketry was
heard in front, and shortly afterwards a mounted
officer came galloping to the rear, Avho desired us
to quicken our pace, for that the advanced guard
was engaged. At this intelUgence the ranks were
closed, and the troops advanced at a brisk rate, and
in profound sUence. The firing stiU continued,
though, from its running and irregular sound, it
promised little else than a skirmish ; but whether
it Avas kept up by detached parties alone, or by
the outposts of a regular army, we could not tell ;
because, from the quantity of wood with which
this country abounds, and the total absence of aU
hiUs or eminences, it was impossible to discern
what was going oh at the distance of half a mile
from where we stood.
We were now drawing near the scene of
action, when another officer came at fuU speed
towards us, with horror and dismay in his counte
nance, and calling aloud for a surgeon. Every
man felt within himself that all Avas not right,
though none was wiUing to believe the whispers
of his own terror. But what at first we would
not guess at, because we dreaded it so much, was
soon reaUzed ; for the aide-de-camp had scarcely
passed, when the general's horse, without its rider,
and with the saddle and housings stained with
blood, came plunging onwards. Nor was much

174 ATTACK.
time given for fearful surmise, as to the extent of
our misfortune. In a few moments we reached
the ground where the skirmishing had taken
place, and beheld poor Ross laid, by the side of
the road, under a canopy of blankets, and appa
rently in the agonies of death. As soon as the
firing began, he had ridden to the front, that he
might ascertain from whence it originated, and,
mingling with the skirmishers, was shot in the
side by a rifleman. The wound was mortal : he feU
into the arms of his aide-de-camp, and Uved only
long enough to name his wife, and to commend
his family to the protection of his country. He
was removed towards the fleet, but expired before
his bearers could reach the boats.
It is impossible to conceive the effect which
this melancholy spectacle produced throughout
the army. By the courteousness and condescen
sion of his manners. General Ross had secured the
absolute love of all who served under him, from
the highest to the lowest ; and his success on a
former occasion, as well as his judicious arrange
ments on the present, had inspired every one with
the most perfect confidence in his abilities. His
very error, if error it may be called, in so young a,
leader — I mean that diffidence in himself which
had occasioned some loss of time on the march to
AVashington, appeared now to have left him. His
movements were at once rapid and cautious ; nay.

ATTACK. 175
his very countenance indicated a fixed determina
tion, and a perfect security of success. All eyes
were turned upon him as we passed, and a sort of
involuntary groan ran from rank to rank, from the
front to the rear of the column.
By the fall of our gallant leader the command
now devolved upon Colonel Brook, of the 44th
Regiment, an officer of decided personal courage,
but, perhaps, better calculated to lead a battalion,
than to guide an army. Being informed of his
unexpected and undesired elevation, he came to
the front, and under him we continued to move
on ; sorrowful, indeed, but not dejected. The
skirmishing had now ceased, for the American
riflemen were driven in ; and in a few minutes we
found ourselves opposite to a considerable force,
drawn up with some skill, and occupying a strong
position. Judging from appearances, I should say
that the corps now opposed to us amounted to
six or seven thousand men. They covered a neck
of land, very much resembling that which we had
passed; having both flanks defended by Uttle
inland lakes ; the whole of their position was well
wooded, and in front of their line was a range of
high palings, similar to those which intersected
the field of Bladensburg. About the centre,
though some way advanced, was a farm-house,
with its out-buildings and stack-yard ; and near to
the right ran the main road. Their artUlery, which

176 ATTACK.
could not greatly exceed our own, either in weight
of metal, or number of guns, was scattered along
the line of infantry in nearly the same order as it
had been at Bladensburg, and their reserve was
partly seen, and partly hid by a thick wood.
The Avhole of this country is flat and unbroken.
About half a mile in rear of where they stood, are
some heights, but to occupy these as they should
be occupied, would have required a much greater
number of men than the American army could
muster. Their general, therefore, exhibited some
judgment in his choice of ground, but, perhaps,
he would have exhibited more had he declined a
pitched battle altogether. Yet, to do him justice,
I repeat that the ground was weU chosen ; for,
besides the covering of wood which he secured
for his own people, he took care to leave open
fields in his front; by which means we were of
necessity exposed to a galUng fire, as soon as A\^e
came within range. Of one error, however, he was
guilty. Either he did not possess himself of the
farm-house at aU, or he suffered it to be taken from
him with very little resistance ; for, on the arrival
of the column at the ground where it was to form.
it was in the occupation of our advanced guards.
He was Ukewise to blame in not filUng the Avood
upon our left with skirmishers. In short, he acted
fooUshly in merely attempting to repel attacks,
without ever dreaming that the most effectual

ATTACK. 177
mode of so doing is to turn the tables, and attack-
the assaUants.
As our troops came up, they filed off to the right
and left, and drew up, just within cannon shot, in
the foUowing order. The light brigade, consisting,
as I have formerly stated, of the 85th Regiment,
and the light companies of the other corps, in ex
tended order, threatened the whole front of the
American army. The 21st remained in column
upon the road ; the 4th moved off to the right, and
advanced through a thicket to turn the enemy's
left ; and the 44th, the seamen and marines, formed
line in rear of the light brigade.
While this formation was going on, the artil
lery being brought up, opened upon the American
army, and a smart cannonade ensued on both
sides. That our guns were well served, I myself
can bear witness ; for I saw the shrapnel shells
which were thrown from them strike among the
enemy, and make fearful gaps in the line. Our
rockets likewise began to play, one of which, fall
ing short, lighted upon a hay-stack in the barn
yard belonging to the farm-house, and immedi
ately set it on r fire. The house itself, the stables,
barns, and out-houses, as well as all the other
stacks, soon caught the flames, and were quickly
in a state of conflagration; and the smoke and
blaze which they emitted, together with the roar
N

178 ATTACK.
of cannon and flashes of the guns, produced alto
gether a very fine effect.
In the mean time the American artiUery was
not idle. Pushing forward two Ught field-pieces
upon the road, they opened a destructive fire of
grape upon the 21st Regiment, and such of the
sailors as occupied that point. Three other gims
were directed against our artillery, between which
and several of our pieces, a sort of duel was main
tained ; and the rest played, without ceasing, upon
the 85th, and the light companies, who had lain
down while the other regiments took up their
ground. Neither was their infantry altogether
quiet. They marched several strong bodies from
the right to the left, and withdrew others from
the left to the right of their line ; thmigh for what
end this marching and countermarching was under
taken, I am at a loss to conceive. While thus fluc
tuating, it was curious to observe their dread of every
spot where a cannon-ball had struck. Having seen
the shots fall, I kept my eye upon one or two
places, and perceived that each company, as it drew
near to those points, hung back ; and then assuming,
as it were, a momentary courage, rushed past, leav
ing a vacancy between it and the company which
next succeeded.
AU this while the whole of our infantry, except
the 4th Regiment, lay or stood in anxious expec-

ATTACK. 179
tation of an order to advance. This, however,
was not given tUl that regiment had reached the
thicket through which it was to make its way ;
when Colonel Brook, with his Staff, having gal
loped along the line to see that aU was ready,
commanded the signal to be made. The charge
was accordingly sounded, and echoed back from
every bugle in the army, when, starting from the
ground where they had lain, the troops moved on
in a cool and orderly manner. A dreadful dis
charge of grape and cannister shot, of old locks,
pieces of broken muskets, . and every thing which
they could cram into their guns, was now sent
forth from the whole of the enemy's artillery ; and
some loss was on our side experienced. Regard
less of this, our men went on without either quick
ening or retarding their pace, till they came within
a hundred yards of the American line. As yet
not a musket had been fired, or a word spoken
on either side, but the enemy, now raising a shout,
fired a volley from right to left, and then kept up
a rapid and ceaseless discharge of musketry. Nor
were our people backward in replying to these sa
lutes; for giving them back both their shout and
their volley, we pushed on at double quick, with the
intention of bringing them to the charge.
The bayonet is a weapon peculiarly British ;
at least it is a weapon, which, in the hands of a
British soldier, is irresistible. Though they main-
N 2

180 ATTACK.
tained themselves with great determination, and
stood to receive our fire till scarcely twenty yards
divided us, the Americans would not hazard a
charge. On our left, indeed, where the 21st ad
vanced in column, it was not without much diffi
culty and a severe loss, that any attempt to charge
could be made ; for in that quarter seemed to be
the flower of the enemy's infantry, as well as the
main body of their artillery ; towards the right,
however, the day was quickly won. The only
thing to be regretted, indeed, was that the attack
had not been for some time longer deferred ; be
cause the Americans were broken and fled, just as
the 4th Regiment began to show itself upon the
brink of the water which covered their flank ; and
before a shallow part could be discovered, and the
troops were enabled to pass, they had time to
escape. As soon as their left gave way, the whole Ame
rican army fell into confusion ; nor do I recoUect
on any occasion to have witnessed a more complete
TQut. Infantry, cavalry, and artillery, were hud
dled together, without the smallest regard to order
or regularity. The sole subject of anxiety seemed
to be which sliould escape first from the field
of battle ; insomuch, that numbers were actually
trodden down by their countrymen in the hurry
of the flight. Yet, in spite of the short duration
of the action, which lasted Uttle more than two

ATTACK. 181
hours from its first commencement, the enemy's
loss was severe. They stood, in some respects,
better than they had done at Bladensburg, conse
quently we were more mingled with them when
they gave way, and were thus enabled to. secure
some prisoners ; an event, which their more imme
diate flight had on the other occasion prevented.
In the capture of guns, however, we were not so
fortunate. Their pieces being light, and weU
supplied with horses, they contrived to carry off
aU except two ; both of which would have also
escaped, but for the shooting of the leaders.
But, considering the nature of the ground which
they occupied, the number of kiUed and wounded
in the American army was enormous ; while in
ours the casualties were much fewer than might
have been expected. The 21st and seamen suf
fered most severely, and the 85th and Ught com
panies, a little ; but had our gallant General been
spared, we should have pronounced this a glorious,
because a comparatively bloodless day. In the
loss of that one man, however, we felt ourselves
more deeply wounded, than if the best battaUon in
the army had been sacrificed.
In following up the flying enemy, the same ob
stacles which presented themselves at Bladensburg,
again came in the way. The thick woods quickly
screened the fugitives, and as even our mounted
drivers were wanting, their horses having been
N 3

182 HALT.
taken for the use of the artiUery, no effectual pur
suit could be attempted. We accordingly halted
upon the field of battle, of necessity content with
the success which we had obtained ; and having
coUected the stragglers, and called in the pursuers,
it was resolved to pass the night in this situation.
Fires were therefore lighted, and the troops distri
buted in such manner, as to secure a tolerable posi
tion in case of attack ; and the wounded being
removed into two or three houses scattered along
the ground, the victors lay down to sleep under
the canopy of heaven.
Having thus given a distinct and connected
detail of this affair, I shall beg leave to finish my
letter with one or two anecdotes, which may be
not unamusing. It is said that when Admiral
Cockburn, who accompanied the army, and at
tended poor Ross with the fidelity of an aide-de
camp, was in the wood where the latter feU, he
observed an American rifle-man taking deUberate
aim at him from behind a tree. Instead of turning
aside, or discharging a pistol at the fellow, as any
other man would have done, the brave Admiral
doubUng his fist, shook it at his enemy, and cried
aloud, " O you d— d Yankey, I 'U give it you !"
upon which the man dropped his musket in the
greatest alarm, and took to his heels.
It is Ukewise told of an officer of engineers, that
having overtaken an American soldier, and de-

HALT. 183
manded his arms, the fellow gave him his rifle very
readily, but being ordered to resign a handsome
sUver-hilted dagger and silver-mounted cartouch-
box, which graced his side, he refused to comply,
alledging that they were private property, and that
by our own proclamations private property should
be respected. This was an instance of low cun
ning, which reminded me of my own adventure
with the squirrel-hunters, and which was attended
with equal success.
One other anecdote of a different nature, and
for the truth of which I can myself answer, may
likewise be related. In strolling over the field of
battle, I came unexpectedly upon a wounded Ame
rican, who lay among some bushes with his leg
broken. I drew near to offer him assistance, but,
on seeing me, the Avretch screamed out, and ap
peared in the greatest alarm ; nor was it without
some difficulty that I could persuade him he had
nothing to fear. At last, being convinced that I
intended him no harm, the fellow informed me
that it was impressed upon the minds of their sol
diers by the officers, that from the British they
might expect no quarter ; and that it was conse
quently their determination to give no quarter to
the British. The feUow might beUe his country
men, and I hope and believe he did, but such was
his report to me. To convince him of the falsity
N 4

184

HALT.

of his notions, I removed him to one of our hos
pitals, where his leg was amputated; and he saw
himself, as well as many others of his wounded
countrymen, treated with the same attention which
was bestowed upon our own soldiers.

MARCH. 185

LETTER XIV.
At an early hour on the 13th, the troops were
roused fi-om their lairs, and forming upon the
ground, waited till day-Ught should appear. A
heavy rain had come on about midnight, and now
feU with so much violence, that some precautions
were necessary, in order to prevent the firelocks
from being rendered useless by wet. Such of the
men as were fortunate enough to possess leathern
cases, wrapped them round the locks of their mus
kets, while the rest held them in the best manner
they could, under their elbows ; no man thinking of
himself, but only how he could best keep his arms
in a serviceable condition.
As soon as the first gUmmering of dawn could
be discerned, we moved to the road, and took up
our wonted order of march, but before we pushed
forward, the troops were desired to lighten them
selves still farther by throwing off their blankets,
which were to be left under a slender guard tUl
their return. This was accordingly done ; and
being now unincumbered, except by a knapsack
almost empty, every man felt his spirits heightened
in proportion to the diminution of his load. The

186 MARCH.
grief of soldiers is seldom of long duration, and
though I wiU not exactly say that poor Ross was
already forgotten, the success of yesterday had
reconciled at least the privates to the guidance of
their new leader; nor was any other issue antici
pated, than what would have attended the excursion,
had he still been its main-spring and director.
The country through which we passed, resembled
in every particular that already described. Wood
and cultivation succeeded each other at intervals,
though the former surpassed the latter in tenfold
extent ; but instead of deserted villages and empty
houses which had met us on the way to Washing
ton, we found most of the inhabitants remaining
peaceably in their homes, and relying upon the
assurance of protection given to them in our pro
clamations. Nor had they cause to repent of that
confidence. In no instance were they insulted,
plundered, or ill-treated ; whereas every house
which was abandoned, fell a prey to the scouts and
reconnoitring parties.
But our march to-day was not so rapid as our
motions generally were. The Americans had at
last adopted an expedient which, if carried to its
proper length, might have entirely stopped our
progress. In most of the woods they had feUed
trees, and thrown them across the road; but as
these abattis were without defenders, we expe
rienced no other inconvenience than what arose

MARCH. 187
from loss of time ; being obUged to halt on aU such
occasions, till the pioneers had removed the obstacle.
So great, however, was even this hindrance, that we
did not come in sight of the main army of the Ame
ricans tUl evening, although the distance traveUed
could not exceed ten mUes.
It now appeared, that the corps which we had
beaten yesterday, was only a detachment, and not
a large one, from the force collected for the de
fence of Baltimore ; and that the account given
by the volunteer troopers, was in every respect
correct. Upon a ridge of hills, which concealed
the town itself from observation, stood the grand
army, consisting of twenty thousand men. Not
trusting to his superiority in numbers, their general
had there entrenched them in the most formidable
manner, having covered the whole face of the
heights with breast-works, thrown back his left, so
as to rest it upon a strong fort, erected for the pro
tection of the river, and constructed a chain of
field redoubts, which covered his right, and com
manded the entire ascent. Along the side of the
hill were likewise fleches, and other projecting
works, from which a cross fire might be kept up ;
and there were mounted throughout this | command
ing position no less than one hundred pieces of
cannon. It would be absurd to suppose that the sight of
preparations so warlike, did not in some degree

188 HALT.
damp the ardour of our leaders ; at least it would
have been madness to storm such works, without
pausing to consider how it might best be at
tempted. The whole of the country within can
non-shot was cleared from wood, and laid out in
grass and corn fields ; consequently there was no
cover to shelter an attacking army from any part
of the deadly fire which would be immediately
poured upon it. The most prudent plan, therefore,
was to wait tiU dark; and then, assisted by the
frigates and bombs, which we hoped were by this
time ready to co-operate, to try the fortune of a
battle. Having resolved thus to act. Colonel Brook
halted his army; and having secured against sur
prise by a well-connected line of piquets, the troops
were permitted to light fires, and to cook the pro
visions. But though the rain stiU feU in torrents,
no shelter could be obtained, and as even their
blankets were no longer at hand, with which to
form gipsy -tents, this was the reverse of an agree
able bivouac to the whole army.
Darkness had now come on, and as yet no intel
Ugence had arrived from the shipping. To assaU
this position, however, without the aid of the fleet,
was deemed impracticable ; at least our chance of
success would be greatly diminished, without their
co-operation. As the left of the American army
extended to a fort, buUt upon the very brink of

HALT. 189
the river, it was clear, that, could the ships be
brought to bear upon that point, and the fort be
silenced by their fire, that flank of the position
would be turned. This once effected, there would
be no difficulty in pushing a column within their
works ; and as soldiers entrenched always place
more reliance upon the strength of their entrench
ments than upon their own personal exertions, the
very sight of our people on a level with them,
would in all probability decide the contest. At all
events, as this column was to advance under cover
of night, it might easily push forward and crown
the hill above the enemy, before any effectual op
position could be offered ; by which means they
would be inclosed between two fires, and lose the
advantage which their present elevated situation
bestowed. All, however, depended upon the
ability of the fleet to lend their assistance, for
without silencing the fort, this flank could scarcely
be assailed with any chance of success ; and,
therefore, the whole plan of operations must be
changed. Having waited till it was considered imprudent
to wait longer, without knowing whether he was
to be supported, Colonel Brook determined, if
possible, to open a communication Avith the fleet.
That the river could not be far off, we knew ; but
how to get to it without faUing in with wandering
parties of the enemy, was the difficulty. The

190 SEARCH.
thing, however, must be done ; and as secrecy,
and not force, was the main object, it was resolved
to dispatch for the purpose a single officer without
an escort. On this service, a particular friend of
mine chanced to be employed. Mounting his
horse, he proceeded to the right of the army,
where, having delayed a few minutes till the moon
rising gave light enough through the clouds to
distinguish objects, he pushed forward at a ven
ture, in as straight a line as he could guess at. It
was not long before his progress was stopped by a
high hedge. Like knight-errants of old, he then
gave himself up to the guidance of his horse, which
taking him towards the rear, soon brought him
into a narrow lane, that appeared to wind in the
direction of the enemy's fort : this lane he deter
mined to foUow, and holding a cocked pistol in
his hand, pushed on, not perhaps entirely com.^
fortable, but desirous at all hazards of executing
his commission. He had not ridden far, when the
sound of voices through the splashing of the rain
drew his attention. PuUing up, he listened in si
lence, and soon discovered that they came from
two American soldiers, whether stragglers or sen
tinels it was impossible to divine ; but whoever
they were, they seemed to be approaching. It
now struck him, that his safest course would be to
commence the attack, and having therefore waited
till he saw them stop short, as if they had perceived

SEARCH. 191
him, he rode forward, and called out to them to
surrender. The feUows turned and fled, but gal
loping after them, he overtook one, at whose head
he presented a pistol, and who instantly threw
down his rifle, and yielded himself prisoner ; whUe
the other, dashing into a thicket, escaped, probably
to teU that he had been attacked by a whole regi
ment of British cavalry. Having thus taken a
prisoner, my friend resolved to make him of some
use ; with this view, he commanded him to lay
hold of his thigh, and to guide him directly to the
river, threatening, if he attempted to mislead or
to betray him into the hands of the Americans,
that he would instantly blow out his brains. Find
ing himself completely in my friend's poAver, the
feUow could not refuse to obey ; and accordingly,
the man resting his hand upon the left thigh of the
officer, they proceeded along the lane for some time,
till they came to a part where it branched off in
two directions. My friend here stopped for a mo
ment, and again repeated his threat, swearing that
the instant he suspected his guiding, should be the
last of his life. The soldier assured him that he
would keep his word, and moreover informed him
that some of our ships were almost within gun
shot of the fort ; a piece of information which was
quickly confirmed by the sound of firing, and the
appearance of sheUs in the air. They now struck
to the right, and in half an hour gained the brink

192 COUNCIL OF WAR.
of the river ; where my friend found a party just
landed from the squadron, and preparing to seek
their vvay towards the camp. By them he was
conducted to the Admiral, from whom he learned
that no effectual support could be given to the
land force ; for such was the shallowness of the
river, that none except the very lightest craft could
make their way within six miles of the town ; and
even these were stopped by vessels sunk in the
channel, and other artificial bars, barely within a
sheU's longest range of the fort. With this un
welcome news he was accordingly forced to return ;
and taking his unwilling guide along with him, he
made bis way, without any adventure, to our ad
vanced posts ; where, having thanked the fellow
for his fidelity, he rewarded it more effectuaUy,
by setting him at liberty.
Having brought his report to head-quarters, a
council of war was instantly summoned to deli
berate upon what was best to be done. Without
the help of the fleet, it was evident, that adopt
what plan of attack we could, our loss must be
such as to counterbalance even success itself;
while success, under existing circumstances, was,
to say the least of it, doultful. And even if we
should succeed, what would be gained by it ? We
could not remove any' thing from Baltimore, for
want of proper conveyances. Had the ships been
able to reach the town, then, indeed, the quantity

MARCH. 193
of booty might have repaid the survivors for their
toil, and consoled them for, the loss of comrades;
but as the case now stood, Ave should only fight to
give us an opportunity of re-acting the scenes of
Washington. To distress an enemy is, no doubt,
desirable, but, in the present instance, that dis
tress, even if brought upon the Americans, would
cost us dear ; whereas, if we failed, it was hardly
possible to avoid destruction.
Such was the reasoning which influenced the
council of war to decide that all idea of storming
the enemy's lines should be given up. To draw
them from their works would require manoeuvring,
and manoeuvring requires time ; but delays were
all in their favour, and could not possibly advan
tage us. Every hour brought in reinforcements
to their army, whereas ours had no source from
which even to recruit its losses ; and it was,
therefore, deemed prudent, since we could not
fight at once, to lose no time in returning to the
shipping. About three hours after midnight, the troops
were accordingly formed upon the road, and began
their retreat ; leaving the piquets to deceive the
enemy, and to follow as a rear-guard. The rainj
which had continued with little interruption since
the night before, now ceased, and the moon shone
out bright and clear. We marched along, there
fore, not in the same spirits as if we had been
()

194 MARCH.
advancing, but feeUng no abasement at having
thus reUnquished an enterprize so much beyond
our strength.
When the day broke, our piquets Avhich had
withdrawn about an hour before, rejoined us,
and Ave went on in a body. Marching over the
field where the battle of the 12th had been
fought, we beheld the dead scattered about,
and still unburied ; but so far different from those
which we had seen at Bladensburg, that they were
not stripped, every man lying as he had faUen.
One object, however, struck me as curious. I
saw several men hanging lifeless among the
branches of trees, and learnt that they had been
riflemen, who chose, during the battle, to fix them
selves in these elevated situations, for the com
bined purposes of securing a good aim, and avoid
ing danger. Whatever might be their success in
the first of these designs, in the last they faUed ;
for our men soon discovered them, and, consider
ing the thing as unfair, refused to give them
quarter, and shot them on their perches.
Here we paused for about an hour, that the
soldiers might collect their blankets, and refresh
themselves ; when we again moved forward, pass
ing the wood where the gallant Ross was killed.
It was noon, and as yet all had gone on smoothly
without any check or alarm. So little indeed was
pursuit dreamt of, that the column began to

RALLY. 195
straggle, and to march without much regard to
order ; when suddenly the bugle sounded from
the rear, and immediately after some musket shots
were heard. In an instant the men were in their
places, and the regiments wheeled into line facing
towards the enemy. The artillery turned round
and advanced to the front, nor did I ever see a
manoeuvre more coolly or more steadily performed
on a parade in England, than this rally. The
alarm, however, turned out to be groundless, be
ing occasioned only by the sudden appearance of
a squadron of horse which had been sent out by
the American general to track our steps. These
endeavoured to charge the rear-guard, and suc
ceeded in making two prisoners ; but a single
Shrapnel checked their further advance, and sent
them back at full speed to boast of the brave ex
ploit Avhich they had performed.
Seeing that no attack was seriously intended,
the army broke once more into the line of march,
and proceeded to a favourable piece of ground,
near the uncompleted position which I have al
ready described ; where we passed the night under
little tents made with blankets and ram-rods. No
alarm occurring, nor any cause of delay appearing,
at day-break we again got under arms, and pushed
on towards the shipping, which, in two hours,
were distinguishable.
The infantry now halted upon a narrow neck of
o 2

196 HALT.
land, whUe the artiUery was Ufted into boats,
and conveyed on board the fleet. As soon as this
was done, brigade after brigade feU back to the
water's edge, and embarked, tiU finally aU, except
the light troops, were got off. These being left
to cover the embarkation, were extended across
the intire space which but a little before con
tained the whole army; but as no attempt was
made to molest them, they had only the honour of
being the last to quit the shore.
Having ventured to give my opinion on the
skUl and miUtary knowledge displayed on both
sides, during the late expedition, it may, perhaps,
be expected that I should do the same on the pre
sent occasion. The fact is, however, that there is
here but little room for criticism ; and that little
would be almost a recapitulation of what has been
already said. On the part of the British general
I am not aware of a single error that can be
noticed. Poor Ross, indeed, threw himself away,
by exposing his person unnecessarily in a trifling
skirmish ; but who will blame a soldier for excess
of courage, or a leader for excess of alertness ?
Like other able men, he was unAvilling to trust to
the report of his subalterns, when it was in his
power to ascertain what he sought to know by
personal observation ; and, like other brave men,
he would not be deterred from prosecuting his
design by the apprehension of danger. In the

HALT. 197
plan of this expedition, he displayed both skill and
resolution. Instead of wasting time by an at
tempt to ascend the river, he chose to land where
he was least likely to meet Avith immediate opposi
tion ; and such was the celerity of his motions, that
had he lived, the chances are that we should have
fought two battles in one day. But of what a
man might have done, I have nothing to say ; let
me rather do justice to his successor and his ad
visers. Of these latter, there is one whom it
would be improper not to mention by name — I
mean Lieutenant Evans, Deputy Assistant Quar
ter-Master General. The whole arrangement of
our troops in order of battle was committed to
him ; and the judicious method in which they
were drawn up, proved that he was not un
worthy of the trust. With respect to the deter
mination of the council of war, I choose to be
silent. Certain it is that the number of our forces
would hardly authorize any desperate attempt ;
and if government regret the issue of the expedi
tion, I humbly conceive that the fault is, in a
great measure, their own, in sending out a force
so inconsiderable. On such subjects, however, I
do not wish to dwell, though every one must be
sensible that 10,000 men might have accomplished
what 5,000 could not venture to attempt.
On the part of the Americans, again, nearly the
same blunders were committed which marked
o 3

198 HALT.
their proceedings during the incursion to Wash
ington ; though certainly more science was dis
played in the distribution of their forces along
their principal position. At Bladensburg, indeed,
there were no works, but the troops were badly
arranged ; here there were not only fortifications,
but fortifications constructed in a scientific man
ner, and troops drawn up in such order, as that,
even without their works, many cross fires would
have protected their front. But they neglected
numerous favourable opportunities of harassing
both our advance and retreat. They felled trees,
but left no guards to keep them from being re
moved, and took no advantage of the delays which
their removal created. They risked a battle with
part of their army, when there was no necessity
for it ; in a word, they committed all those errors
which men generally commit who are not soldiers,
and yet love war.

THE PATUXENT. 199

LETTER XV.

Having once more received the troops on board,
the fleet remained quietly at anchor till the 17th,
when, at an early hour, we set sail and stood towards
the Patuxent. In this voyage we passed close to
Kent Island, and again threw the inhabitants of
Anapolis into alarm by approaching almost within
gun-shot of their town ; but at neither place were
hostilities attempted, and on the 19th we arrived?
without any adventure, at our former anchorage
in the river. Here we brought up, and parties were
sent on shore to dig wells in the sand, to which the
boats resorted in great numbers for water. Cattle
and sheep were likewise purchased from the nati\'es ;
some of the flour which had been captured, was con
verted into biscuit, and every preparation seemed to
be making for a long voyage.
To facilitate these operations, the fleet now se
parated, part remaining here, and part proceeding
under Admiral Malcombe to the Potomac ; while
Sir Alexander Cochrane, in the Tonnant, with seve-
04

200 THE PATUXENT.
ral frigates and gun-brigs, quitted us altogether,
and set sail, as it Avas given out, for Halifax. But
our situation was by no means agreeable. The
climate of this part of America is, at certain sea
sons, far from healthy ; and the prevalence of
dysentry through the armament, proved that the
unhealthy season had already commenced. Neither
did there appear to be any prospect of farther em
ployment. No one talked of a future enterprize,
nor was the slightest rumour circulated as to the
next point of attack. The death of General Ross,
in short, seemed to have disorganized the whole
plan of proceedings, and the fleet and army rested
idle, like a watch without its main spring.
While things were in this state, while the
banks of the rivers continued in our possession,
and the interior was left unmolested to the Ame
ricans, a rash confidence sprang up in the minds
of all, insomuch that parties of pleasure would
frequently land without arms, and spend many
hours on shore. On one of these occasions, se
veral officers from the 85th Regiment agreed
to pass a day together at a farm-house, about
a quarter of a mile from the stream ; and taking
with them ten soldiers, unarmed, to row the
boat, a few sailors, and a young midshipman,
not more than twelve years of age, they pro
ceeded to put their determination into practice.
Leaving the men under the command of their

THE PATUXENT. 201
youthful pilot, to take care of the boat, the
officers went on to the house, but had not been
there above an hour, when they were alarmed by
a shout which sounded as if it came from the
river. Looking out, they beheld their party sur
rounded by seventy or eighty mounted riflemen ;
the boat dragged upon the beach, and set on fire.
Giving themselves up for lost, they continued for
an instant, in a sort of stupor ; but the master of
the house, to whom some kindness had been
shown by our people, proved himself grateful, and,
letting them out by a back door, directed them to
hide themselves in the wood, while he should en
deavour to turn their pursuers on a wrong scent.
As they had nothing to trust to except the honour
of this American, it cannot be supposed that they
felt much at ease ; but seeing no better course
before them, they resigned themselves to his guid
ance, and plunging into the thicket, concealed
themselves as well as thej' could among the under
wood. In the mean time the American soldiers,
ha\ang secured all that were left behind, except
the young midshipman, who fled into the wood in
spite of the fire, divided into two bodies, one of
which approached the house, while the other en
deavoured to overtake the brave boy. It so
chanced that the party in pursuit passed close to
the officers in concealment, but by the greatest
good fortune did not observe them. They sue-

202 THE PATUXENT.
ceeded, however, in catching a gUmpse of the
midshipman, just as he had gained the water's
edge, and was pushing off a light canoe which
he had loosened from the stump of a tree. The
barbarians immediately gave chace, firing at the
brave lad, and calUng out to surrender ; but the
gaUant youth paid no attention either to their
voices or their bullets. Launching his little bark,
he put to sea with a single paddle, and, regardless
of the showers of balls which fell about him, re
turned alone and unhurt to the ship.
While one party was thus employed, the other
hastened to the house in full expectation of cap
turing the officers. But their host kept his word
with great fidelity, and having directed his country
men towards another farm-house at some distance
from his own, and in an opposite quarter from
where his guests lay, he waited till they were out
of sight, and then joined his new friends in their
concealment. Bringing with him such provisions
as he could muster, he advised them to keep quiet
till dark, when, their pursuers having departed, he
conducted them to the river, supplied them with a
large canoe, and sent them off in perfect safety to
the fleet.
On reaching their ship, they found the 85th Re
giment under arms, and preparing to land, for the
purpose of either releasing their comrades from
captivity, or inflicting exemplary punishment upon

THE POTOMAC. 203
the farmer by whose treachery it was supposed
that they had suffered. But when the particulars
of his behaviour were related, the latter alterna
tive was at once abandoned ; and it was determined
to force a dismissal of the captives, by advancing
up the country, and laying waste every thing with
fire and sword. The whole of the light brigade
was accordingly carried on shore, and halted on
the beach, whilst a messenger was sent forward to
demand back the prisoners. Such, however, was
the effect of his threatening, that the demand was
at once complied with, and they returned on board
without having committed any ravages, or marched
above two miles from the boats.
Besides this trifling debarkation, another little
excursion was made by the second and third bri
gades, the light troops being left most unaccount
ably on board. Hearing that an encampment was
formed a few miles from the left bank of the Po
tomac, Colonel Brook determined, if possible, to
come up with and engage the force there sta
tioned. With this view, two brigades were landed
on the night of the 4th of October, and pushed
forward at a brisk pace, but the enemy being on the
alert, had timely notice of the movement, and re
tired ; by which means our people returned on the
5th, without effecting any thing.
By this time the whole fleet was once more col
lected together ; and crowded the Potomac with

204 JAMES RIVER.
their keels. The Diadem being an old ship and a
bad sailer, it was determined to remove from her
the troops which she had formerly carried, to fill
her with American prisoners, and to send her to
England. The Menelaus was likewise dispatched
with such officers and soldiers as required the be
nefit of their native air, to complete the cure of
their wounds ; and the rest getting under weigh
on the 6th, stood directly towards the mouth of
the Chesapeake. When we reached the James
River, we anchored, and were joined by an Ameri
can schooner bearing a flag of truce. She brought
with her Colonel Thornton, Lieutenant-Colonel
Wood, and the rest of the officers and men who
had been left behind at Bladensburg, and being
under the guidance of Commodore Barney, that
gentleman was enabled to discharge his trust even
to the very letter.
It may readily be supposed that the meeting be
tween friends thus restored to each other, was very
agreeable. But there was another source of com
fort which this arrival communicated, of greater
importance than the pleasure bestowed upon indi
viduals. In Colonel Thornton we felt that Ave had
recovered a dashing and enterprising officer ; one
as well calculated to lead a corps of light troops,
and to guide the advance of an army, as any in the
service. On the whole, therefore, the American
schooner was as welcome as if she had been a first-

THE CHESAPEAKE. 205
rate man of war, filled with reinforcements from
England. The wounded being now sent off, and Colonel
Wood among the number, the remainder of the
fleet again set sail, and reached the mouth of the
bay without interruption. Here they were met
by a frigate and two brigs, which spoke to the Ad
miral, and apparently communicated some impor
tant intelligence ; for we immediately put about,
and stood once more up the Chesapeake. The
wind, however, blew with great violence, and di
rectly against us. After beating about, therefore,
for some time, without gaining any ground, we
turned our heads towards the ocean, and, flying
between the Capes with amazing velocity, stood
out to sea; directing our course towards the
S.S.E. ; and proceeding at the rate of seven miles
an hour under bare poles. The sea ran tremen
dously high, and the sky was dark and dreary ;
insomuch that by a landsman the gale might safely
be accounted a storm. Under these circumstances,
the ship rolling as if she would dip her top-mast in
the water, and the waves breaking in at the back
AvindoAvs of the cabin, nothing remained to be
done but to go to bed. Thither most of us, ac
cordingly, repaired, and, holding ourselves in our
births by cUnging to the posts, we amused our
selves by watching the motions of the stools,
books, trunks, and other articles, as they floated

206 AT SEA.
majestically from one side of the cabin to the other.
But the effects of the gale were not, in every re
spect, ludicrous. Two small schooners which had
been captured at Alexandria and converted into
tenders, foundered, and went down ; without an
opportunity being afforded of saving an individual
of their crews.
At length the wind began to moderate, and on
the 18th there was a dead calm. -In point of com
fort, however, I cannot say that much change was
experienced, for, though the gale had ceased, the
swell still continued ; and the motion produced by
a heavy sea after a storm, is actually more disagree
able than that occasioned by the storm itself.
But on this day the minds of all were set at ease,
as to the place whither we were going, a telegraph
signal bein^ made to steer for Jamaica. It was
likewise understood that we should be there joined
by strong reinforcements, and proceed upon a se
cret expedition against some place on the southern
borders of the United States.
The calm which had succeeded the storm, did
not last long, for on the 1 9th a fair breeze sprang
up, and sent us, at a moderate and agreeable rate,
upon our course. The heat, however, was most
oppressive ; even awnings being unable to afford
any sufficient shelter. We were fast approaching
the tropic of Cancer, and every day experienced a
greater degree of sultriness ; tiU at length, on the

AT SEA. 207
25th, we crossed that imaginary boundary. Here
we were visited, according to custom, by Neptune
and his wife ; and, as the ceremony of shaving
may, perhaps, be unknown to you, I shaU beg
leave to relate the particulars of this visit.
A clever, active seaman, dressed up grotesquely
in various coloured rags, adorned with a long
beard made of the stuff Avhich sailors call spun-
yarn, and armed with a tri-pronged harpoon,
personates the God of the Ocean. Another sea
man, arrayed in like manner, except that, instead
of a beard, he wears a hideous mask, performs
the part of the lady. These are attended by a
troop of sea-gods and nymphs, similarly equipped ;
and, advancing from the bow of the vessel as if
just stepped on board, they come forward to the
mainmast, and summon before them all such per
sons as have never sworn the oaths, or previously
visited their capital. At the foot of the mast is
placed a large tub full of sea-water, and covered
by a piece of canvass, which is held tight by four
of their attendants. Upon this unsteady throne is
the luckless wight, whom they design to initiate,
compelled to sit; and being asked several ques
tions, which he cannot answer, and taking several
oaths, very much resembling those said to be ad
ministered at Highgate, Neptune proceeds to con
fer upon him the honour of filiation, by rathei; an
extraordinary process. Two of the sea-nymphs.

208 AT SEA.
generally tall stout feUows, pinion his arms to his
sides ; and another, bringing a bucket filled with
grease and slops from the kitchen, sets it down at
his godship's feet, putting a small painting brush
into his hand. Neptune now dips his bnish into
the filth, and proceeds to spread a lather over the
face of the novice, taking care to ask questions
during the whole process ; and if the adopted be
simple enough to reply, the brush is instantly
thrust into his mouth. As soon as a sufficient
quantity of grease is laid upon the face, Neptune
next seizes a piece of rusty iron, generally the
broken hoop of a water cask, with which he scrapes
off all that has bean applied. If the novice take
all this patiently, his face is washed, and he is per
mitted to descend from his throne in peace, being
dignified with the title of Neptune's son. But if
he lose his temper, which most men are inclined
to do, a bucket of sea-water is poured upon his
head. If this be sufficient to cool his wrath, he
suffers no more ; but if it only increase his indig
nation, bucket after bucket is emptied over him,
and, at last, the holders of the sail-cloth suddenly
retiring, he is plunged, over head, into the tub.
To crown all, the unfortunate wretch who has en
dured these miseries, is fined, by his tormentor, in
a gallon of rum ; a fine which the force of custom
compels him to pay. It must be confessed that
this is a barbarous amusement, much resembling

THE WEST INDIES. 209
that of the boys, in the fable of the boys and the
frogs. Though very agreeable to those who act,
and to the lookers on, it is not so to him that
suffers. In this manner many persons Avere treated, till
at length Neptune growing weary from the num
ber of novices, was content to admit the rest to the
privileges of initiation, on condition that the fines
should be punctuaUy paid ; an agreement, into
which most of us very thankfully entered.
Next morning, the first object which met our
eyes, was the land of Caycos island. We were so
close to the shore, when day-Ught discovered it,
that had the wind been at all adverse, we must un
questionably have struck ; but being assisted by a
fair and gentle breeze, the ships put about imme
diately, and escaped the danger. Standing out to
sea, the fleet now doubled the promontory, and
steering round by the other side, sailed on without
losing sight of land, till late in the evening.
On the following day, a signal was made from
the Admiral's ship, that the Golden Fleece trans
port, under convoy of the Volcano bomb, should
proceed to Port Royal, while the rest of the fleet
held their course towards Negril bay. These two
vessels accordingly set all sail, and pushed -forward
by themselves ; while the others kept on at a more
moderate rate, that none might stray from the con
voy ; for the West India seas at this time swarm-
p

210 THE WEST INDIES.
ing with American privateers, it was of great
consequence to keep the store-ships and heavy
transports in the middle of the squadron.
It so chanced, that I took my passage in one of
the two ships which went forward by themselves.
The wind was fair, and we made great progress,
insomuch, that before dark the high land of St.
Domingo, on one side, and the mountains of Cuba
on the other, were discernible. In spite of the heat,
therefore, our voyage soon became truly delight
ful. Secure of getting on under the influence of
the trade winds, we had nothing to distract our
thoughts, or keep us from feasting our eyes upon
the glorious shores of these two islands ; while in
addition to the sight of land, which of itself was
cheering, we were amused with water-spouts, ap
parently playing about us in every direction. One
of these, however, began to form within a little
distance of the ship, and as they are dangerous as
weU as interesting, a cannon was got ready to
break it, before it should reach us. But it did not
complete its formation, though I cannot tell why ;
for, after one spout had risen into the air some
height, and another bent down from the clouds, to
meet it, they were suddenly carried away in dif
ferent directions, and fell into the sea with the
noise of a cataract.
Among other sources of amusement, our atten
tion was drawn, on the 29th, -to a shark, which

THE AVEST INDIES. 211
made its appearance at the stern of the vessel. A
strong hook was immediately prepared, and baited
with a piece of salt pork, which, being thrown
over, was instantly gulped by the voracious mon
ster. But, as soon as he felt the pain occasioned
by the hook in his jaws, he plunged towards the
bottom of the sea with such violence, as to render
the very taffarel hot, by the rapidity of the cord
gliding over it. Having permitted him to go a
certain length, he was again hauled up to the sur
face, where he remained without offering further
resistance, whilst a boat was lowered down, and a
strong noose thrown over his head. Being thus
made fast to the gunwale of the boat, he was
brought round to the gangway, when the end
of the noose being cast over the main-yard, he was
lifted out of the sea and swung upon the ship's
deck. Hitherto he had suffered quietly, offering
no resistance, and apparently stupified by the pain
of his jaw ; but he began now to convince us that
neither life nor strength had deserted him ; lashing
with his tail with such violence as speedily to clear
the quarter deck, and biting in the most furious
manner at every thing within his reach. One of
the sailors, however, who seemed to understand
these matters more than his comrades, took an axe,
and watching his opportunity, at one blow chopped
off his tail. He was now perfectly harmless, unless
indeed, one had chosen to thrust one's hand into
p 2

212 THE WEST INDIES.
his mouth ; and the same sailor accordingly pro
ceeded to lay him open, and to take out his en
trails. And now it was that the tenacity of life,
peculiar to these animals, displayed itself. After
his heart and bowels were taken out, the shark still
continued to exhibit proofs of animation, by biting
with as much force as ever, at a bag of carpenter's
tools that happened to Ue within his reach.
Being cut up, he was distributed in portions
among the soldiers and ship's crew. The tail part
only, was reserved as the chief delicacy for our
cabin, which, though dry and hard, with Uttle
flavour or taste, was on the present occasion con
sidered as agreeable food, because it was fresh.

THE WEST INDIES. 213

LETTER XVI.

But what I principally relished, in this part of
our voyage, Avas the exquisite beauty of its night-
scenery. To an inhabitant of Great Britain, the
splendour of a night-scene in these climates is alto
gether unknown. Shining broad and full in a sky
perfectly cloudless, the moon sends forth a clear
and mellow lustre, little inferior, in point of
strength, to the full twilight in England. By this
means you never lose sight of land, either by night
or day, as long as your course lies between Cuba
and Saint Domingo ; whilst the delicious coolness,
which foUows the setting of the sun, tempts you,
in spite of all the whispers of prudence, to expose
yourself to dews and damps, rather than forego
those pleasures of which they are the bane. Bcr
sides, you have constantly the satisfaction of
observing yourself move steadily on at the most
agreeable of all rates, about five or six miles an
hour ; a satisfaction far from trifling in a sea life.
Then the ocean is so smooth, that scarcely a rip
ple is seen to break the moon-beams as they fall ;
whilst the quiet dash of little waves against the
ship's side, and the rushing noise occasioned by
p 3

214 THE A^'^EST INDIES.
the moving of her bow through the water, produce
altogether an effect which may, without affecta
tion, be termed absolutely refreshing. It was my
common practice to sit for hours after night-fall
upon the taffarel, and strain my eyes in the attempt
to distinguish objects on shore, or strange sails in
the distance.
It so happened, that on the 30th I Was tempted
to indulge in this idle but bewitching employment,
even beyond my usual hour for retiring ; and
did not quit the deck till towards two o'clock in
the morning of the 31st. I had just entered my
cabin, and was beginning to undress, when a cry
from above, of an enemy in chace, drew me in
stantly to the quarter deck. On looking a-stern, I
perceived a vessel making directly after us, and
was soon convinced of the justice of the alarm, by
a shot which whistled over our heads. AU hands
were now called to quarters, the small sails were
taken in, and having spoke to our companion, and
made an agreement as to position, both ships cleared
for action. But the stranger seeing his signal
obeyed with so much alacrity, Ukewise slackened
sail, and continuing to keep us in view, followed
our wake without approaching nearer. In this
state things continued till day-break, we still hold
ing our course, and he hanging back ; but as soon
as it was Ught, he set more sail and rah to wind
ward, moving just out of gun-shot, in a parallel di-

THE WEST INDIES. 215
rection with us. It was now necessary to fall upon
some plan of deceiving him, otherwise there was
Uttle probability that he would attack. In the
bomb, indeed, the height of the bulwarks served to
conceal some of the men ; but in the transport no
such screen existed. The troops were, therefore,
ordered below, and only the sailors, a few blacks,
and the officers kept the deck. The same expe
dient was likewise adopted, in part, by Captain
Price, of the Volcano, and, in order to give to his
ship a still greater resemblance than it already had
to a merchantman, he displayed an old faded scar
let ensign, and drew up his fore and mainsail in
what sailors term a lubberly manner.
As yet the stranger had shown no colours, but
from her build and rigging, there was little doubt
as to her country. She was a beautiful schooner,
presenting seven ports of a side, and apparently
crowded with men, circumstances which imme
diately led us to beUeve, that she was an American
privateer. The Volcano, on the other hand, was
a clumsy strong built ship, carrying twelve guns;
and the Golden Fleece mounted eight ; so that in
point of artiUery, the advantage was rather on our
side ; but the Americans' saUing was so much su
perior to that of either of us, that this advantage
was more than counterbalanced.
Having dodged us till eight o'clock, and recon-
noitered with great exactness, the stranger began
p4

216 THE AVEST INDIES.
to steer gradually nearer and nearer, tUl at length
it was judged that she Avas within range. A gun
was accordingly fired from the Volcano, and an
other from the transport, the balls from both of
which passed over her, and fell into the sea. Find
ing herself thus assaulted, she now threw off all
disguise, and hung out an American ensign ; when,
putting her helm up, she poured a broadside, Avith
a volley of musquetry, into the transport ; and ran
along side of the bomb which sailed to windward.
As soon as her flag was displayed, and her in
tention of attacking discerned, all hands were
ordered up ; and she received two well-directed
broadsides from the Volcano, as well as a warm
salute from the Golden Fleece. But such was
the celerity of her motion, that she was along
side of the , bomb in less time than can be
imagined; and actually dashing her bow against
the other, attempted to carry her by boarding.
Captain Price, however, was ready to receive
them. The boarders were at their posts in an
instant, and Jonathan finding, to use a vulgar
phrase, that he had caught a Tartar, left about
twenty of his men upon the Volcano's bowsprit,
aU of whom were thrown into the sea ; and filling
his saUs, sheered off with the same speed with
Avhich he had borne down. In attempting to
escape, he unavoidably fell somewhat to leeward,
and exposed the whole of his deck to the fire of

THE WEST INDIES. 217
the transport. A tremendous discharge of mus
quetry saluted him as he passed ; and it was almost
laughable to witness the haste with which his
crew hurried below, leaving none upon deck ex
cept such as were absolutely wanted to work his
vessel. The Volcano had, by this time, filled and gave
chace, firing with great precision at his yards and
rigging, in the hope of disabling him. But as for
tune would have it, none of his important ropes or
yards Avere cut ; and we had the mortification to
see him, in a few minutes, beyond our reach.
In this affair, a marine officer and two men were
killed on board the Bomb; and some of the tack
ling was shot away. The transport suffered no
thing, in killed or wounded, having been in a great
degree protected from the enemy's fire, by her com
modore ; and only one rope, I believe a mainstay,
was destroyed.
The battle being over, and the chace given up
as fruitless, we continued our course, without any
other adventure ; and before dark, were able to
distinguish the blue mountains of Jamaica. St. Do
mingo and Cuba had both disappeared, and this
was now the only land visible, but it was not till
the first of November that we could obtain a dis
tinct view of it. Then, indeed, Ave found ourselves
within a few miles of the shore, and coasted along,
highly delighted with the prospect before us.

218 JAMAICA.
The shores of Jamaica are in general bold and
mountainous, but on this side they are pecuUarly
grand. It appeared to me, that even the Pyrenees,
magnificent as they are, were not to be compared,
in point of altitude, to the hiUs now before me ;
and early in the morning, while yet the mists hung
upon their summits and concealed them, the ima
gination was left to picture to itself what it chose ;
even the gates of heaven resting upon their tops.
It was, in truth, a glorious scene ; and as the wind
blew light and uncertain, we were permitted, from
the slowness of the ship's progress, to enjoy it to the
full. Towards evening, indeed, the breeze died
entirely away, which compelled us to anchor about
eight miles from the harbour of Port Royal.
In spite of the little rest which I had procured
during the preceding nights, having jsat up till an
early hour this morning, to watch several strange
sails that hovered about us, I could not bring my
self to quit the deck till after midnight, so beauti
ful, in aU respects, were the objects around me.
The moon shone with her accustomed brilliancy,
and exhibited every crag and tree upon the land,
changed and confounded in shape, but stiU plainly ;
while the perfume, borne off upon the breeze, was
odoriferous in the highest degree. The sound of
the waves, likewise, breaking upon the rocks, and
the occasional cry of seamen, as they adjusted
ropes and saUs, together with the sight of several

PORT ROYAL. 219
vessels which took advantage of the night-wind
and stood to sea, with canvass glittering in the
moon-beams, produced so delightful a combination,
as completely rivetted me to my seat; nor was it
without much reluctance that I at length yielded
to.the drowsy god, and descended to my cabin.
Next morning, the ship got under weigh at an
early hour, but owing to the unsteadiness of the
breeze, it was ten o'clock before we made any sa
tisfactory progress. As we approached the bay
which forms the harbour of Port Royal, a novel
and pleasing scene presented itself. The hills
dying graduaUy away, gave place to gentle slopes
and green knoUs, till towards the entrance, the
coast became perfectly level. Pushing forward,
we soon found ourselves in a narrow channel be
tween two projecting head-lands, beautifully orna
mented with cocoa-nut trees, and so near to each
other, that I could with ease have thrown a biscuit
from the ship's deck upon either. At the extre
mity of these necks, just where the bay begins its
sweep, stand two well-buUt forts, bristling with
cannon ; and at the opposite side may be seen a
third, ready to sink whatever hostile fleet should
be fortunate enough to pass the first. But these
were not the most striking parts of the scene. The
water in this streight is remarkably clear, and ex
hibits with great distinctness the tops and chim
neys of houses at the bottom. It wiU be recol-

220 KINGSTON.
lected, that many years ago, an earthquake not
only demolished great part of the town of Port
Royal, but likewise covered it with the sea; by
which means, the site of the harbour was com
pletely changed, and that AA^hich was formerly dry
land, and a town, became part of the entrance of
the bay.
Having doubled the promontories, a rich and
extensive prospect meets the eye. You find your
self, as it were, in a large inland lake, the banks of
which are covered with plantations of sugar-cane,
groves of cocoa-nut and plantane trees, and other
woods peculiar to these regions, beautifully interr
spersed with seats and. viUages. On your right, is
the town of Port Royal, lying nearly on a level
with the water, and strongly protected by fortifi
cations, while in various other directions are castles
and batteries, adding an appearance of security to
that of plenty. The banks, though not lofty, slope
gently upwards, , with occasional falls or glens, and
the back ground is composed, in general, of the
rugged tops of distant mountains.
Having waited till the ship dropped anchor, I
put myself into a sort of barge rowed by four ne
groes, and proceeded to Kingston. Though not the
capital of the island, Kingston is the largest town
in Jamaica. It stands upon the brink of a frith,
about nine miles above Port Royal; and thence
enjoys aU the advantages of the chief mart in this

KINGSTON. 221
trading country. Like most other mercantile sea
ports, it is built without much regard to regularity.
The streets, though wide, are in general the reverse
of elegant, being composed almost entirely of
wooden houses, and by no means remarkable for
cleanliness. Of public buildings, it possesses none
worthy of notice. Its inns are, however, excellent ;
and though certainly not moderate in their charges,
they are at least more so than those of Bermuda.
In a word, it is exactly such a town as one would
expect to find, holding the principal commercial
rank in a colony where men's minds seldom aspire
beyond the occupations of trade.
Of the intense heat in this place, none but those
who have experienced it can form a notion. It is
impossible to walk out with any comfort, except
before the sun has risen, or after he has set ; and
even within doors, with the aid of thorough
draughts, and aU the other expedients usually
adopted on such occasions, it is with the utmost
difficulty that you can contrive to keep your blood
in a moderate degree of temperature. In the
town itself, therefore, few of the higher classes
reside ; the closeness produced by a proximity of
houses being in this cUmate peculiarly insupport
able. These accordingly inhabit little viUas, caUed
Pens, about three or four miles in the country ;
the master of each family generally retaining a
suite of apartments, or perhaps an entire mansion

222 KINGSTON.
in some'open street, for his own use, when business
obUges him to exchange the comfort of fresh air
for the suffocating atmosphere Of Kingston. To
wards the outskirts, indeed, in one direction, a few
genteel famiUes inhabit one or two handsome
houses, surrounded by extensive gardens and shrub
beries ; but these are not numerous, and so far
from the heat of the toAvn, as to be in a great mea
sure beyond the influence of its smoke, and other
nuisances. During our sojourn in this place, we received
the most hospitable attention from several persons
of the first distinction. Balls, and other entertain
ments, were given, at which all the beauty and
fashion in this part of the island attended ; and
for some days I had little leisure or inclination for
any other pursuit, than the enjoyment of civUized
pleasures ; a pursuit which, from long disuse, pos
sessed more than ordinary zest. But, at length,
having seen as much of Kingston and its Adcinity^
as I desired to see, I determined to take advantage
of the opportunity which fortune had placed
within my reach, and to make an excursion into
the heart of the Blue Mountains. To this I was
additionally induced by an invitation from an old
friend to visit him at Annotto Bay ; and as, along
with his letter, he sent a horse for my own con
veyance, and a mule for the conveyance of my
baggage, no difficulty respecting a mode of being

JAMAICA. 223
transported, stood in the way to obstruct my
design. Having made up my mind to this journey, I
waited tUl sun-set on the 9th, when starting in
the cool of the evening, I reached a little tavern
called the Plumb-tree, about half an hour after
dark. My ride carried me through an open and
fertile country, covered with sugar-canes, coffee,
and such other plants as are cultivated in the low
grounds of Jamaica. It was a short one, not more
than twelve miles in extent ; but I was forced to
halt where I did, because I had now gained the
foot of the mountains ; and if I passed the Plumb-
tree, weU known as a sort of half-way house on
such tours, I might travel all night without finding
any place of accommodation.
As darkness set in, one of the beautiful pecu
liarities of a tropical climate, which I had not pre
viously witnessed, came under my observation.
The air was filled with fire-flies, which emitting a
phosphoric light, something similar to the light of
the glow-worm, only more red and brilliant,
danced around me like sparks from a smith's anvil,
when he is beating a bar of red hot iroii. These
creatures flutter about with a humming noise, and
frequently settle in large swarms upon branches
of trees, giving to them the semblance of so many
pieces of timber taken newly out of a fire. When
viewed by day-light, they are in no way remark-

224 JAMAICA.
able for their elegance, resembling in the shape of
the body a long beetle, which may be seen in the
fields after sun-set, without wings or scales. In
colour they are a dingy brown, and, like the, glow
worm, carry their light in the tail.
As I had not before chanced to see any thing of
the kind, and forgot at the moment that such an
insect as the fire-fly existed, I Avas for a few mi
nutes at a loss to what cause to attribute the phe
nomenon ; and was at last indebted to my negro
guide for refreshing my memory on the subject.
The effect, however, cannot be conceived, without
being witnessed. A cluster of two or three glow
worms shine so brilliantly, that they will furnish
subject for the commendatory eloquence of any
one fortunate enough to perceive them together ;
but their brUUancy is as a farthing candle to the
sun, when compared with that of the fire-fly. Not
two or three, but thousands of these creatures
dance around, filling the air with a wavering and
uncertain glimmer, of the extreme beauty of
which no words can convey an adequate con
ception. Having passed the night at this taivern, a small
cottage kept by a free negro and his wife, I rose
two hours before dawn, and prosecuted my journey.
From the moment I quitted the Plumb-tree, I be
gan gradually to ascend, tiU, at day -break, I found
myself in the midst of the most glorious scenery

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 225
that the imagination of man can conceive. Every
thing around was new and romantic. The hills,
towering into the very sky, were covered from
top to bottom with the richest herbage, and the
most luxuriant wood. Rarely could a barren crag
be discerned, and when it did appear, it was only
a sharp point, or a bold projection pushing itself
forward from the midst of the thickest foliage.
But Avhat to me formed the most bewitching part
of the prospect, Avas the elegance of the trees, and
their perfect dissimilitude to any I had previously
beheld. The cocoa-nut and plantane were mingled
with the wUd-pine and lime-tree ; while the cashew
and Avild-coffee, with numberless other shrubs,
loaded at once with fruit and blossom, formed the
underwood to these graceful forests.
As yet I had been favoured with a wide and
good road, but now it began gradually to narrow,
till at last it ended in a path little more distinct
than the sheep-tracks over the hills in Scotland.
Winding along the sides of the mountains, it
brought me frequently to spots, where the wood
parting, as if artificially, displayed deep ravines, to
look down which, without becoming dizzy, required
no little strength of head; whUst above, the same
hiU continued to stretch itself to a height, far be
yond any I had before gazed upon. Presently
after, it conducted me gently down into valUes
completely shut out from the rest of the world ; and
Q

226 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.
as I descended, I could hear the roar of water, though
neither the stream nor the bottom of the glen could
be perceived. On one of these occasions, after
passing through a thick grove, I beheld a river of
some width, dashing along the glen, and chafing
so as to produce the noise of a mighty waterfall.
Towards the brink of this river my guide conducted
me ; when, plunging in, we made our way, with
some difficulty, to the opposite bank, and again
began to ascend.
For several hours, the same scenery surrounded
me, only varied by the occasional appearance of
clusters of negro huts. Than these, it is impossible
to imagine any species of huts or dwellings more
beautifully picturesque. They are constructed of
strong limbs of trees, thatched over with straw,
and usually ending in a cone ; having no windows,
but only two, or sometimes four doors, for the pur
pose of admitting a free current of air. The spots
chosen for their erection, are generally small plat
forms or terraces in the sides of the hills. A little
path, similar to that along which I travelled, winds
down from their doors to the bottom of the valley,
and conducts to the edge of the river, from whence
the inhabitants are supplied with water. Other
tracks likewise branch off in different directions,
some towards the summit, and others along the
sides of the mountains; leading, probably, to the
fields or spots where the inhabitants labour. These

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 227
huts have no chimney, but only a large hole in the
roof, to give free passage to the smoke, and I could
perceive, by its rise at present, that fires were con
stantly kept burning.
It would be labour lost, were I to attempt any
more minute description of this delightful journey.
Every step I took presented something new, and
something more grand and sublime than I had just
quitted ; while the continual fording of the swoUen
river, (for I crossed the same stream no fewer
than eight and twenty times,) ga\^e an additional
interest to the scene, arising from the sense of
danger. The rainy seasons having just ended, this
stream, the Wag-water, a most appropriate name,
had not as yet returned to its natural size ; but at
the fords, which in general would not cover a
horse's knees, the depth was such as to moisten
the saddle-girths. So great a quantity of water, in
a furious mountain-torrent, pouring on with all the
violence produced by a steep descent, occasioned no
slight pressure upon my steed ; nor was it without
considerable floundering on his part, and some
anxiety on mine, that once or twice we succeeded
in making good our passage.

Q 2

228 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.

LETTER XVII.

Noon was approaching when my sooty fellow-
traveller directed my attention to a neat cottage,
romantically situated on the top of a low mound,
which stood alone in the middle of stupendous
mountains. It commanded one of the most exr
quisite prospects that fancy can represent. A sort
of glen surrounded it on every side, richly and
beautifuUy wooded ; behind, rose some of the most
lofty of the blue mountains ; on the right there was
an opening, which admitted a fine view of Annotta
Bay ; while in the other direction, the hills sloping
gradually upwards, presented an inclined plane,
covered Avith fields of sugar-cane, and ending at
a considerable distance, in one abrupt and broken
ridge. The cottage in question was the residence of
my friend, and the resting place whither my steps
were turned ; nor did I experience any regret at
finding myself so near my journey's end. The
heat had for some time been almost intoler
able, and having eaten nothing since the night
before, nature began to cry out for repose and re
pletion. In truth, the welcome which I expe-

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 229
rienced was of such a nature, as to take away
all desire of wandering farther. We had not
met for many years, and since that time some me
lancholy changes had taken place in my friend's
family ; but he received me with all the cordial
hospitality which a warm heart produces, and for
got his own private sorrows, that he might not
throw a damp over my enjoyments.
Feeling that I had taken sufficient exercise for
one day, I did not go out till the morrow ; when
we rode together round several estates, saw the
process of making sugar, and visited several hos
pitals, with which each estate is supplied for the
reception and cure of sick negroes. I likewise
made many minute inquiries as „to the state and
condition of the slaves, inspecting their huts, and
even examining their provisions ; and I must con
fess that the result of these inquiries was such, as
to destroy much of the abhorrence which I had
before felt to the name of slavery. There is some
thing in the idea of bondage very repugnant to
the feelings of men born to freedom as an inhe
ritance ; nor are there any evils which such men
would not undergo to preserve that inheritance.
But after aU, the misery of the one state, and the
happiness of the other, is but ideal. As far as real
comforts go, I should pronounce the negro slave,
in Jamaica, a happier man than the peasant in
England. Like a soldier, he is well fed, supplied

230 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.
with what clothing he requires, has a comfortable
bed to sleep on, is distressed with no cares for the
support of his family, and is only obliged, in re
turn for all this, to labour a certain number of
hours in the day. It is true that he may be beaten,
and cannot resist ; but he never is beaten, un
less he deserve it: and to a man afflicted, or if
you please ennobled by no fine feelings of honour,
a beating produces no pain, except what may arise
from the strokes themselves.
With respect to the treatment of slaves, again,
the outcry so general in England against the
cruelty of overseers is quite absurd. No man,
however wanting in humanity, is so foolish as to
render useless his own property. If he have no
better principle to direct him, the same policy
which prevents an English farmer from over-work
ing or abusing his horse, wUl prevent a West India
merchant from over-working or abusing his slave.
Nor are the slaves prohibited from earning some
thing for themselves. A certain number of hours
in each day are at their own disposal, when, if"
they choose to work on, they are paid so much for
their services ; if not, they are permitted to amuse
themselves in any manner they please. Their food,
though coarse, is wholesome, and such as they have -
been all their lives accustomed to ; their houses,
though not elegant, are in no respect inferior to the
-generality of cottages, allowed to the poor by parish

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 231
officers in England ; and when they are sick, they are
removed to airy hospitals, where as much attention
is paid to them, as if they were people of rank and
consequence. But, above all, they are never dis
tressed with anxiety for their families. They know
that their children will receive the same treatment
that they have received, that they will never want
food, clothing, or a home, and therefore they die
without any of those harrowing dreads, which so
frequently madden the death-bed of an EngUsh
labourer. But, it will be said, they are slaves ; and in the
word slavery are comprehended the worst evils that
can befal a human being. This is all very well in
theory, and no doubt every man born free would
risk his life to preserve his Uberty ; but the most
of these slaves have never known what freedom is ;
and it is alisurd to talk of a man pining for he
knows not what. Latterly, indeed, thanks to cer
tain humane individuals, who, without possessing
the sUghtest personal knowledge of their situation,
have pitied them so loudly, that their compas
sionate expressions have crossed the Atlantic, they
have begun to consider themselves as hardly
treated, in being refused the common birth-right
of man. The consequence is, that many negroes,
who were before cheerful and happy, are now dis
contented and gloomy, and ripe for the most de
sperate attempts. Yet, as a proof of their folly
q4

232 THE MAROONS.
in desiring freedom, unless, indeed, that gift were
accompanied with the possession of the islands
where they dwell, by far the greater part of those
slaves, whom their masters have at any time en
franchised, after wandering about for awhUe, the
most miserable creatures upon earth, return, and
beg, as a favour, to be received once more into
their original state of slavery.
The process of making sugar is too well known
to render it necessary for me to describe it in de
tail. The sugar-cane being cast into a grinding mill,
is pressed till the juice is extracted, Avhich, being
conveyed in pipes from the mill to a large caldron'
is boiled till it require a certain consistency; the
scum being regularly taken off as it is thrown up
from the bottom. The liquor is then poured into
another caldron, and undergoes another boiUng;
where being left till cool, it is taken out in a solid
mass ; and when bruised down, becomes the sugar
of which we make use. The lees and scum of the
sugar again being distiUed, produce rum ;, while the
cattle and horses are fed upon the pulp ; and thus,
of the sugar-plant itself, three different uses are
made, all of them important, and all profitable.
Among other curiosities, I was fortunate enough,
Avhile in this part of the island, to see something
of the Maroons. These are a race of free negroes,
who live entirely by themselves, and are treated
as the allies and friends of the British government.

THE MAKOOInS. 233
They inhabit several viUages, or as they are called,
towns, in the Avildest part of the interior, and ge
nerally near the banks of a river. They have their
own magistrates, and are governed by laws of their
oWn ; but at the head of each little republic is an
European, who acts, at once, as ambassador from
the whites, and as chief governor of the place.
They are found extremely useful in bringing back
run-away slaves, receiving a sort of pension for
their services, and being supplied with muskets
and ammunition, at the expence of the British au
thorities. That the Maroons are not the original inhabi
tants of Jamaica, their colour sufficiently proves.
They are not copper-coloured like the natives of
America, but quite black, resembling, in almost
every particular, the African negro. Their fea
tures, however, are not so universally flat ; and the
hair of many, instead of being woolly and curly,
is long and sleek. Some of their women are com
pletely beautiful, with high noses, and lips mo
derately thick ; while their form and make are
erect and graceful. Till I beheld these female
Maroons, I did not conceive it possible to apply
the term beautiful to a being as dark as ebony ;
but, in truth, so powerful is the effect of regular
features and an elegant form, that the difference
of complexion is not able to destroy it.
All the Maroons are not, however, of this de-

^34 THE MAROONS.
scription. They are now so much mingled with
fugitive slaves, that the original breed is greatly
impaired, and appears to be in some danger of
becoming totally lost. During the Maroon war,
every slave that deserted from his master, was re
ceived among them ; and these deserters being
almost as numerous as the people to whom they
fled for refuge, the present generation is a sort of
mongrel race, partaking, in most cases, as much of
the negro, as of the Maroon feature.
From what part of the world these Maroons have
originally come, I cannot pretend to determine.
In their features and form, they certainly bear a
greater resemblance to Asiatic, than the African ne
groes ; and yet I am not aware, that slaves were
at any time transported from the shores of Asia to
the West Indies. It is most probable, however,
that these people, from whatever quarter of the
globe they may have been brought, were, at one
time, subject to the same bondage as the present
cultivators of the soU. But the event proved, that
they were more high-spirited than their flat-nosed
brethren ; for they soon threw off the yoke, and
established themselves in the wilds and moun
tainous districts of the island. After an unsuc
cessful attempt to reduce them, they Avere left in
possession of their freedom and their fastnesses;
and now live peaceably and quietly, carrying on a
little traffic in feathers, birds and skins, with their

THE MAROONS. 235
European neighbours, and supporting themselves,
when near the water, upon fish ; and when distant
from any stream, chiefly upon the fruit of the plan
tane tree.
Having spent a few most agreeable days with
my friend, on the 13th I set out on my return to
Kingston. The scenery, through which I passed,
was, in many respects, different from what had en
tertained me on my way thither ; my guide having
led me by another road, in order to avoid the river.
The country was in general less grand, and more
cultivated; but there were two or three spots even
wilder than any I had yet seen. These were oc
cupied by Maroon towns, consisting of two long
streets of huts, crossing each other at right angles ;
each hut being surrounded by a small plot, in
which the sweet potatoe and yam, with some of
the most common kinds of vegetables, were culti
vated. The huts themselves resembled, in every
particular, the huts of the slaves. Only they were
perhaps less neat, and had about them less the ap
pearance of comfort ; but in their food and manner
of living, the condition of the Maroons seems to
be decidedly inferior to that of the others. That
the slaves are, in reality, more happy than the free
negroes, is proved by the different mode in which
they employ themselves. In passing through a
village of the former, after the work of the day is
finished, you wiU always find them dancing, or
amusing themselves in manly and athletic games.

236 STONEY HILL.
At whatever hour you may chance to traverse a
Maroon town, you Avill see the inhabitants sitting
in lazy indolence at the doors of their cabins, so
completely oppressed with what may be termed
ennui, that they wiU hardly take the trouble to
lift up their eyes to stare at you as you go along.
Except when driven by hunger to seek the plantane
trees, they seldom stir beyond their own habita
tions ; unless it be to lead back some fugitive to
his master, and to claim the reward. Even their
little trade is carried on with those who come
among them ; few of them thinking it worth whUe
to look for a market, where they may dispose of
their commodities.
As it was late before I started, my ride to-day
was extremely toilsome, on account of the heat.
I did not, therefore, push on to Kingston at oncej
but stopping at a place called Stoney-hill, passed
the night there ; and rising early, reached that
town by breakfast-time, on the following day. I
found the ships preparing to sail, the sea-stock
embarked, and officers hastening on board ; when,
congratulating myself on having arrived at a for
tunate moment, I made my way to the harbour,
and once more took possession of my cabin.
It happened, however, that the ships did not sail
so soon as was expected. Time was therefore
given me, to examine the town of Port Royal, a
circumstance of which I did not fail to avail my
self. Not that there is, in this small town, much

PORT ROA'AL. 237
to recompense the trouble of examination, per
formed as such an examination must be, under the
rays of a vertical sun ; but to one Uttle used to a
sea life, any thing is better then remaining cooped
up within the narrow compass of a ship.
Port Royal is quite the Wapping of Kingston.
Full of bustle and confusion, its streets are gene
rally crowded with drunken sailors, labouring ne
groes, and noisy task-masters. The houses are
mean, and the inhabitants of the lowest order ;
nor is it remarkable for any thing, except the
strength of the works by which it is defended-
The barracks, indeed, are good and extensive,
being meant to contain about a thousand men ;
but besides these, there is no building in the place
worthy of notice ; for though, likewise, the dock
yard be of some importance, and rich in stores, it
is but little ornamented with architecture ; and
the only church is as plain and unadorned as pos
sible. The town itself, being built upon a promontory,
is washed on three sides by the sea; and is,
besides, surrounded by regular fortifications, weU
suppUed with heavy ordnance. Close to each of
the guns which point towards the water, are
furnaces for heating shot; and within the ram
parts are arranged, at proper intervals from one
another, many mortars of large calibre. In a
word, if you view it as a town, your sentence will

238 NEGRIL BAY.
be altogether adverse ; if as a fortification, you
will acknowledge that it is well calculated to
effect the purpose for which it was erected ; . that
is, to protect the principal harbour of Jamaica
from insult.
At length, on the morning of the 17th, we
got under weigh, and stood to sea. Coasting along
with a fair wind, we arrived on the 19th at Negril
bay, the place of rendezvous for the whole arma
ment. Here we found great part of the fleet at
anchor, the horses landed, and every thing in a
state which promised some farther delay. Neither
Sir Alexander Cochrane, who was expected to re
join us with reinforcements from England, nor
Admiral Malcombe, were in the bay ; and the com
mand remained at present with the Captain of the
Asia. The shores, on this side of Jamaica, are more
flat and tame than any I had yet seen. The
quantity of wood, however, with which they are
covered, even to the edge of the water, gives to
them a rich and beautiful appearance ; while the
sweep of the bay itself is strikingly fine. Sugar
cane seems to be the universal produce of the soil,
wherever it is capable of producing any thing ;
even Indian corn being but little cultivated. Of
this last there were here a few fields, and but a
few, interspersed among many of the other ; as
well as some pasture, upon Avhich sheep and cattle

NEGRIL BAY. 239
were feeding. The sheep, I believe, are bred in
the island ; but the cattle are brought over from
the Spanish main; few persons attempting to en
courage their propagation, so much are they found
to degenerate.
Seeing all things quiet, and no likelihood of an
immediate change, I determined to go on shore,
and having, together with a friend, put my resolu
tion into practice, we provided ourselves with
horses, and rode some way up the country. But
every thing appeared insipid after my journey
through the mountains. The scenery, though
rich, was not grand ; and but for the view, which,
from various eminences, Ave were enabled to pro
cure of the anchorage crowded with shipping,
would have been uninteresting.
Our ride was not, therefore, protracted, so as to
incur any risk of being left behind; for having
penetrated only about ten miles from the beach,
we turned our horses' heads, and retraced our steps
to the fleet.
In this state affairs continued till the 24th,
when, about nine o'clock in the morning, the top
masts of a numerous squadron could be discerned
over the eastern promontory. These gradually
neared us, till, in a short time, we were able to
distinguish the flags of Sir Alexander Cochrane,
and Admiral Malcombe, and at last beheld the
Tonnant and Royal Oak, accompanied by a large

240 NEGRIL BAY.
fleet of troop ships and transports, majestically en^
tering the bay. As may be imagined, our curiosity
was strongly excited to learn what troops they con
tained, and what intelligence they brought ; inso
much that they had scarcely dropped anchor when
they were boarded from almost everj' one of the
ships which they came to join.
It appeared that this powerful reinforcement
consisted of the following forces. The 93d Regi
ment, a fine corps of Highlanders, mustering nine
hundred bayonets ; six companies of the 95th
rifle corps, two West India Regiments, each eight
hundred strong; two squadrons of the 14th Dra
goons dismounted ; detachments of artillery, rock
ets, sappers, and engineers ; recruits for the dif
ferent corps already in this part of the world ;
and though last, not least. Major General Keane,
to take upon himself the command of the whole.
The intelligence brought was likewise interesting,
for it informed us of the point whither we were
to proceed; and it was soon known throughout
the fleet, that the conquest of New Orleans Avas
the object in view.
But before I pursue my narrative farther, having
arrived, as it were, at a second commencement, it
may be well if I state in full, the number of men
which the army now contained. In the first place,
then, there were the 4th, 44th, and 85th Regiments
originaUy dispatched from Bourdeaux, and the

NEGRIL BAY. 241
2 1st, which joined the expedition at Bermuda. These
battalions being considerably reduced by past ser
vice, could not at present muster conjunctly above
two thousand two hundred men ; and being likewise
deprived of the Marine battaUon, which had fought
beside them in the Chesapeake, they retained no
followers except the Artillery, Sappers, &c. which
had accompanied them from the first. The whole
amount of this corps may, therefore, be estimated" at
two thousand five hundred men.
Without computing the individual strength of
each detachment now arrived, I will venture to fix
the aggregate at three thousand five hundred ; and
thus the whole, taken collectively, will amount
to six thousand combatants. That it might some
what exceed or fall under this computation, I do
not deny ; but neither the excess nor deficiency
could be considerable ; and therefore my state
ment may be received as correct, with very little
allowance. This, it must be confessed, was a formidable
power, and such as, had aU its parts been trust
worthy, might have done much. But in the black
corps, Uttle reUance could be placed, especiaUy if
the cUmate should prove colder than was antici
pated ; consequently, there were not more than
four thousand four hundred men, upon whom a
general could fully depend.
Together with these forces, were brought out
R

242 NEGRIL BAY.
abundant stores of ammunition, some clothing for
the troops, and tents to be used when an oppor-
tunUy should offer. There were also numerous
additions to the commissariat and medical de
partments ; in short, the material of the army
was increased in proportion to its increase of
number. To find himself in the chief command of this
force, exceeded the expectation, and perhaps the
desire, of General Keane. Being a young and
dashing officer, he had been selected as most fit
to serve under Ross ; and having sailed from
England before the death of that gallant chief was
known, he reached Madeira before his elevation
was communicated to him. Young as he was,
however, his arrival produced much satisfaction
throughout the armament ; for though no one
entertained a doubt as to the personal courage of
Colonel Brook, it was felt that a leader of more
experience was wanted on the present expe
dition. As soon as the newly-arrived squadron had an
chored, the Bay was coyered with boats, which con
veyed parties of officers from ship to ship, hastening
to salute their comrades, and to enquire into the
state of things at home. Greetings and hearty em
braces were interchanged between friends thus again
brought together ; and a few passing ejaculations
of sorrow bestowed upon those who could not now

NEGRIL BAY. 243
take part in the meeting. Many questions were
put, relative to persons and places in England ; in a
word, the day was spent in that species of employ
ment, which can be completely known only to those
who have been similarly situated.

h2

244 AT SEA.

LETTER XVIII.
But the period granted for such indulgence was
not of long duration, for, on the following morning,
the Tonnant, Ramillies, and two brigs, stood to
sea, and on the 26th, the rest of the fleet got under
weigh, and followed the Admiral. It is impossible
to conceive a finer sea-view than this general stir
presented. Our fleet amounted now to upwards
of fifty saU, many of them vessels of war, which
shaking loose their topsails, and lifting their an
chors at the same moment, gave to Negril Bay an
appearance of bustle such as it has seldom been
able to show. In half an hour all the canvass was
set, and the ships moved slowly and proudly from
their anchorage, tiU having cleared the head-lands,
and caught the fair breeze which blew without, they
bounded over the water with the speed of eagles,
and long before dark, the coast of Jamaica had dis
appeared. There is something in rapidity of motion, whe
ther it be along a high road, or across the deep, ex
tremely elevating ; nor was its effect unperceived
on the present occasion. It is true, that there
were other causes for the high spirits which noA*^

AT SEA. 245
pervaded the armament, but I question if any one
was more efficient in their production, than the asto
nishing rate of our sailing. Whether the business
we were about to undertake would prove bloody,
or the reverse, entered not into the contemplation
of a single individual in the fleet. The sole sub
ject of remark was the speed with which we got
over the ground, and the probability that existed
of our soon reaching the point of debarkation . The
change of climate, likewise, was not without its
effect in producing pleasurable sensations. The
farther we got from Jamaica, the more cool and
agreeable became the atmosphere ; which led us
to hope that, in spite of its southern latitude. New
Orleans would not be found so oppressively hot as
we had been taught to expect.
The breeze continuing to last without inter
ruption, on the 29th we came in sight of the
island of Grand Cayman. Tiiis is a small speck
in the middle of the sea, lying so near the level
of the water, as to be un observable at any
considerable distance. Though we passed along
with prodigious velocity, a canoe nevertheless
ventured off from the shore, and making its way
through waves which looked as if they would
swallow it up, succeeded in reaching our vessel.
It contained a white man and two negroes, who
brought off a quantity of fine turtle, which they
gave us in exchange for salt pork ; and so great
R 3

246 AT SEA.
was the value put upon salt provisions, that they
bartered a pound and a half of the one for a pound
of the other. To us the exchange was very ac
ceptable, and thus both parties remained satisfied
with their bargain.
Having lain to till our turtle merchants left us,
we again fiUed and stood our course. The land of
Cayman was soon invisible ; nor was any other
perceived tUl the 2d of December, when the
western shores of Cuba presented themselves.
Towards them we now directed the ship's head,
and reaching in within a few miles of the beach,
coasted along till we had doubled the promontory
which forms one of the jaws of the Mexican gulf.
While keeping thus close to the shore, our sail
was more interesting than usual, for though this
side of Cuba is low, it is still picturesque, from the
abundance of wood with which it is ornamented.
There are Ukewise several points where huge rocks
risfe perpendicularly out of the water, presenting
the appearance of old baronial castles, with their
battlements and lofty turrets ; and it wiU easily be
beUeved, that none of these escaped our observa
tion. The few books which we had brought to
sea, were all read, many of them twice and three
times through ; and there now remained nothing
to amuse, except what the variety of the voyage
could produce.
But the shores of Cuba were quickly passed, and

AT SEA. 247
the old prospect of sea and sky again met the gaze.
There was, however, one circumstance, from which
we experienced a considerable diminution of
comfort. As soon as we entered the gulf, a short
disagreeable swell was perceptible ; differing in
some respects from that in the Bay of Biscay, but
to my mind infinitely more unpleasant. So great
was the motion, indeed, that all walking was pre
vented ; but as we felt ourselves drawing every
hour nearer and nearer to the conclusion of our
miseries, this additional one was borne without
much repining. Besides, we found some amuse
ment in watching from the cabin windows, the
quantity and variety of weed with which the sur
face of this gulf is covered. Where it originaUy
grows, I could not learn, though" I should think
most probably in the gulf itself ; but following
the course of the stream, it floats continuaUy in
one direction ; going round by the opposite coast
of Cuba, towards the banks of Newfoundland, and
extending sometimes as far as Bermuda and the
Western Isles.
It is not, however, my intention to continue the
detaU of this voyage longer than may be interest
ing ; I shall therefore merely state, that, the wind
and weather having undergone some variations, it
was the 10th of December before the shores of
America could be discerned. On that day we
found ourselves opposite to the Chandeleur Islands,
K 4

248 NEW ORLEANS.
and near the entrance of Lake Borgne. There the
fleet anchored, that the troops might be removed
from the heavy ships, into such as drew least
water ; and from this and other preparations, it ap
peared, that to ascend this lake was the plan deter
mined upon.
But before I pursue my narrative farther, it will
be well if I endeavour to give some account of the
situation of New Orleans, and of the nature of
the country against which our operations were
directed. New Orleans is a town of some note, containing
from twenty to thirty thousand inhabitants. It
stands upon the eastern bank of the Mississippi, in
30° north latitude, and about 110 miles from the
Gulf of Mexico. Though in itself unfortified, it
is difficult to conceive a place capable of present
ing greater obstacles to an invader ; and at the
same time more conveniently situated with respect
to trade. Being built upon a narrow neck of land,
confined on one side by the river, and on the other
by impassable morasses, its means of defence re
quire little explanation ; and as these morasses
extend only a few miles, and are succeeded by
Lake Pontchartrain, which again communicates
through Lake Borgne,* with the sea, its peculiar
* These are, properly speaking, one and the same lake. From
the entrance, however, as far as Ship Island, is called by the inha
bitants Lake Borgne, and all above that point goes under the name

NEW ORLEANS, 249
commercial advantages must be equally apparent.
It is by means of the former of these Lakes, indeed,
that intercourse is maintained between the city
and the northern parts of West Florida, of which
it is the capital ; a narrow creek, called, in the lan
guage of the country, a Bayo or Bayouke, navigable
for vessels drawing less than six feet water, running
up through the marsh, and ending within two
miles of the town. The name of this creek is the
Bayouke of St. John, and its entrance is defended
by works of considerable strength.
, But to exhibit its advantages in a more distinct
point of view, it wUl be necessary to say a few
words respecting that mighty river upon which it
stands. The Mississippi, (a corruption of the word
Mechasippi, signifying, in the language of the na
tives, ' the father of rivers,') is allowed to be inferior,
in point of size and general navigability, to few
streams in the world. According to the Sioux
Indians, it takes its rise from a large swamp, and is
increased by many rivers emptying themselves into
its course as far as the faU of St. Anthony, which,
by their account, is upwards of seven hundred
leagues from its source. But this faU, which is
formed by a rock thrown across the channel, of
about twelve feet perpendicular height, is known
to be eight hundred leagues from the sea ; and
of Lake Pontchartrain. They are both extremely shallow, vary
ing from 12 to 6 feet in depth.

250 NEAV ORLEANS.
therefore the whole course of the Mississippi, from
its spring to its mouth, may be. computed at little
short of 5,000 miles.
Below the faU of St. Anthony, again, the Mis
sissippi is joined by a number of rivers considerable
in point of size, and leading out of almost every
part of the continent of America. These are the
St. Pierre, Avhich comes from the west ; St. Croix,
from the east ; the Moingona, which is said to run
150 leagues from the west, and forms a junction
about 250 below the fall ; and the Illinois, which
rises near the Lake Michigan, 200 leagues east of
the Mississippi.
But by far the most important of these auxiUary
streams is the Missouri, the source of which is as
little known as that of the Father of Rivers himself.
It has been foUowed by traders upwards of 400
leagues, who traffic Avith the tribes which dwell
upon its banks, and obtain an immense return for
European goods. The mouth of this river is five
leagues below that of the Illinois, and is supposed
to be 800 from its source, which, judging from the
flow of its waters, Ues in a north-west direction
from the Mississippi. It is remarJsable enough,
that the waters of this river are black and muddy,
and prevail over those of the Mississippi, which,
running with a clear and gentle stream tUl it meets
with this addition, becomes from that time both
dark and rapid.

NEAV ORLEANS. 251
The next river of note is the Ohio, which, taking
its rise near Lake Erie, runs from the north-east to
the south-west, and joins the Mississippi about
seventy leagues below the Missouri. Besides this,
there are the St. Francis, an inconsiderable stream,
and the Arkansas, which is said to originate in
the same latitude with Santa F6 in New Mexico,
and which, holding its course nearly 300 leagues,
falls in about 200 above New Orleans. Sixty
leagues below the Arkansas, comes the Yazous
from the north-east ; and about fifty-eight nearer
to the city, is the Rouge, so called from the colour
of its waters, which are of a reddish dye, and tinge
those of the Mississippi at the time of the floods.
Its source is in New Mexico, and after running
about 200 leagues, it is joined by the Noir thirty
miles above the place where it empties itself into
the Mississippi.
Of all these rivers, there is none which will not
answer the purposes of commerce, at least to a very
considerable extent ; and as they join the Missis
sippi above New Orleans, it is evident that this
city^ may be considered as the general mart of the
whole. Whatever nation, therefore, chances to
possess this place, possesses in reality the command
of a greater extent of country than is included
within the boundary line of the whole United
States ; since from every direction are goods, the
produce of East, West, North, and South America,

252 NEAV- ORLEANS.
sent down by the Mississippi to the gulf But
were New Orleans properly supplied with fortifi
cations, it is evident that no vessels could pass
without the leave of its governor ; and therefore
is it that I consider that city as of greater impor
tance to the American government, than any other
within the compass of their territories.
Having said so much on its commercial advan
tages, let me now point out more distinctly than I
have yet done, the causes which contribute to its
safety from all hostile attempts. The first of these
is the shallowness of the river at its mouth, and the
extreme rapidity of the current. After flowing on
in one prodigious sheet of water, varying in depth
from one hundred to thirty fathoms, the Missis
sippi, previous to its joining the Mexican Gulf,
divides into four or five mouths, the most consi
derable of which is encumbered by a sand-bank,
continually Uable to shift. Over this bank, no
vessel drawing above seventeen feet water, can
pass ; when once across, however, there is no
longer a difficulty in being floated ; but to anchor
is hazardous, on account of the huge logs which
are constantly carried down the stream. Should
one of these strike the bow of the ship, it would
possibly dash her to pieces ; whUe, independent
of this, there is always danger of drifting, or
losing anchors, owing to the number of sunken
logs which the under-current bears along within

DETOUR DES ANGLAIS. 253
a few feet of the bottom. All vessels ascending
the river are accordingly obliged, if the wind be
foul, to make fast to the trees upon the banks ; be
cause, without a breeze at once fair and powerful,
it is impossible to stem the torrent.
But, besides this natural obstacle to invasion, the
mouth of the river is defended by a fort, which,
from its situation, may be pronounced impregna
ble. It is built upon an artificial causeway, and is
surrounded on all sides by swamps totally imper
vious, which extend on both sides of the river to a
place caUed the Detour des Anglais, within twenty
mUes of the city. Here two other forts are erected,
one on each bank. Like that at the river's mouth,
these are surrounded by a marsh, a single narrow
path conducting from the commencement of firm
ground to the gates of each. If, therefore, an
enemy should contrive to pass both the bar and the
first port, he must here be stopped, because all
landing is prevented by the nature of the soil ; and
however fair his breeze may have hitherto been,
it wUl not now assist his farther progress. At this
point the Mississippi winds almost in a circle, in-
soiriuch that vessels which arrive are necessitated
to make fast, tiU a change of Avind occur.
From the Detour des Anglais towards New Or
leans, the face of the country undergoes an alter
ation. The swamp does not, indeed, end, but it
narroAVs off to the right, leaving a space of firm

254 DETOUR DES ANGLAIS.
ground, varying from three to one mile in width,
between it and the river. At the back of this
swamp, again, which may be about six or eight
miles across, come up the waters of Lake Pont^
chartrain, and thus a neck of arable land is formedj
stretching for some way above the city. The
whole of these morasses are covered, as far as the
Detour, with tall reeds ; a little wood now succeeds,
skirting the open country, but this is only a mUe in
depth, when it again gives place to reeds. Such
is the aspect of that side of the river upon which
the city is built ; with respect to the other, I can
speak with less confidence, having seen it but cur
sorily. It appears, however, to resemble this in
almost every particular, except that it is more
wooded, and less confined with marsh. Both sides
are flat, containing no broken ground, or any other
cover for military movements ; for on the open
shore there are no trees, except a few in the gar
dens of those houses which skirt the river, the
whole being laid out in large fields of sugar-cane,
separated from one another by rails and ditches.
From this short account of the country, the ad
vantages possessed by a defending army must be
apparent. To approach by the river is out of the
question, and therefore an enemy can land only
from the Lake. But this can be done no where,
except where creeks or bayos offer conveniences for
that purpose, because the banks of the lake are

NEAV ORLEANS. 255
universally swampy ; and can hardly supply foot
ing for infantry, far less for the transportation of
artillery. Of these, however, there are not above
one or two which could be so used. The Bayo of
St. John is one ; but it is too well defended, and
too carefully guarded for any attempts ; and the
Bayo of Catiline is another, about ten mUes below
the city. That this last might be found useful in
an attack, was proved by the landing effected by
our army at that point ; but what is the conse
quence ? The invaders arrive upon a piece of
ground, where the most consummate generalship
will be of little avail. If the defenders can but
retard their progress ; which, by crowding the
Mississippi with armed vessels, may very easily be
done, the labour of a few days will cover this nar
row neck with entrenchments ; while the opposite
bank remaining in their hands, they can at all
times gall their enemy with a close and deadly
cannonade. Of wood, as I have already said, or
broken ground which might conceal an advance,
there exists not a particle. Every movement of
the assailants must, therefore, be made under their
eyes ; and as one flank of their army wUl be as w^ell
defended by morass, as the other by the river, they
may bid defiance to aU attempts at turning.
Such are the advantages of New Orleans ; and
now it is only fair, that I should state its disad
vantages : these are owing solely to the cUmate.

256 NEAV ORLEANS.
From the swamps wdth which it is surrounded,
there arise, during the summer months, exhalations
extremely fatal to the health of its inhabitants.
For some months of the year, indeed, so deadly are
the effects of the atmosphere, that the garrison is
withdrawn, and most of the families retire from
their houses to more genial spots, leaving the town
as much deserted, as if it had been visited by a pes
tilence. Yet, in spite of these precautions, agues
and intermittent fevers abound here at all times.
Nor is it Avonderful that this should be the case ; for
independent of the vile air which the vicinity of
so many putrid swamps occasions, this country is
more liable than perhaps any other, to sudden and
severe changes of temperature. A night of keen
frost, sufficiently powerful to produce ice, a quarter
of an inch in thickness, frequently follows a day
of intense heat ; while heavy rains and bright sun
shine often succeed each other several times, in
the course of a few hours. But these changes, as
may be supposed, occur only during the winter ;
the summer being one continued series of intoler
able heat and deadly fog.
Of aU these circumstances, the conductors of the
present expedition were not ignorant. To reduce
the forts which command the navigation of the
river, it was conceived, was a' task too difficult to
be attempted; and for any ships to pass without
this reduction, was impossible. Trusting, therefore,

LAKE BORGNE. 267
that the object of the enterprize was unknown to
the Americans, Sir Alexander Cochrane and Ge
neral Keane determined to effect a landing some
where on the banks of the Lake ; and pushing
directly on to take possession of the town, before
any effectual preparation could be made for its
defence. With this view the troops were re
moved from the larger into the lighter vessels, and
these, under convoy of such gun-brigs as the shal
lowness of the water would float, began on the
1 3th to enter Lake Borgne. But we had not pro
ceeded far, when it was apparent that the Ameri
cans were well acquainted with our intentions, and
ready to receive us. Five large cutters, armed
with six heavy guns each, were seen at anchor in
the distance, and as all endeavours to land, till these
were captured, would have been useless, the trans
ports and largest of the gun-brigs cast anchor, while
the smaller craft gave chace to the enemy.
But these cutters were built purposely to act
upon the Lake. They accordingly set sail, as soon
as the English cruizers were within a certain dis
tance, and running on,, were quickly out of sight,
leaving the pursuers fast aground. To permit
them to remain in the hands of the enemy, how
ever, would be fatal, because, as long as they com
manded the navigation of the Lake, no boats could
venture to, cross. It was, therefore, determined at
aU hazards, and at any expence to take them ; and
s

258 LAKE BORGNE.
since our Ughtest craft could not float where they
sailed, a flotiUa of launches and ship's barges was
got ready for the purpose.
This flotilla consisted of fifty open boats; most
of them armed with a carronade in the bow, and
weU manned with volunteers from the different
ships of war. The command was given to Cap
tain Lockier, a brave and skilful officer, who imme
diately pushed off; and about noon came in sight of
the enemy, moored fore and aft, with the broad
sides pointing towards him. Having pulled a
considerable distance, he resolved to refresh hi
men before he hurried them into action ; and, there
fore, letting fall grapplings just beyond reach of the
enemy's guns, the crews of the different boats
coolly ate their dinner.
As soon as that meal was finished, and an hour
spent in resting, the boats again got ready to ad
vance. But, unfortunately, a light breeze Avhich
had hitherto favoured them, now ceased to blow,
and they were accordingly compelled to make way
only with the oar. The tide also ran strong against
them, at once increasing their labour, and retard
ing their progress ; but all these difficulties ap
peared trifling to British sailors ; and giving an
hearty cheer, they moved steadily onward in one
extended line.
It was not long before the enemy's guns opened
upon them, and a tremendous shower of baUs

LAKE BORGNE. 259
saluted their approach. Some boats were sunk,
others disabled, and many men were kiUed and
wounded ; but the rest pulUng with aU their might,
and occasionally returning the discharges from their
carronades, succeeded, after an hour's labour, in
closing with the Americans. The marines now
began a deadly discharge of musketry ; while the
seamen, sword in hand, sprang up the vessels' sides
in spite of aU opposition ; and sabring every man
that stood in the way, hauled down the American
ensign, and hoisted the British flag in its place.
One cutter, however, which bore the commo
dore's broad pennant, was not so easily subdued.
Having noted its pre-eminence. Captain Lockier
directed his own boat against it ; and happening
to have placed himself in one of the lightest and
fastest sailing barges in the flotiUa, he found him
self alongside of his enemy, before any of the others
were near enough to render him the smaUest sup
port. But nothing dismayed by odds so fearful,
the gallant crew of this small bark following their
leader, instantly leaped on board the American.
A desperate conflict now ensued, in which Cap
tain Lockier received several severe wounds ; but
after fighting from the bow to the stern, the enemy
were at length overpowered; and other barges
coming up to the assistance of their commander,
the commodore's flag shared the same fate with
the others. s 2

260 LAKE BORGNE.
Having thus destroyed aU opposition in this quar
ter, the fleet again weighed, anchor, and stood up
the Lake. But we had not been many hours under
saU, when ship after ship ran aground : such as
still floated were, therefore, crowded with the troops
from those which could go no farther, till finally
the lightest vessel stuck fast ; and the boats were
of necessity hoisted out, to carry us a distance of
upAvards of thirty miles. To be confined for so
long a time, as the prosecution of this voyage would
require, in one posture, was of itself no very agree
able prospect ; but the confinement was but a trifling
misery, when compared with that Avhich arose from
the change in the weather. Instead of a constant
bracing frost, heavy rains, such as an inhabitant of
England cannot dream of, and against which no
cloak will furnish protection, began. In the midst
of these were the troops embarked in their new and
straitened transports, and each division, after an
exposure of ten hours, landed upon a small desert
spot of earth, called Pine Island, where it was deter
mined to collect the whole army, previous to its
crossing over to the main.
Than this spot, it is scarcely possible to imagine
any place more completely Wretched. It was a
swamp, containing a small space of firm ground
at one end, and almost wholly unadorned with
trees of any sort or description. There were in
deed, a few stinted firs upon the very edge of the

PINE ISLAND. 261
w^ater ; but these were so diminutive in size, as hardly
to deserve an higher classification than among the
meanest of shrubs. The interior was the resort of
wild ducks and other water fowl ; and the pools and
creeks with which it was intercepted abounded in
dormant alligators.
Upon this miserable desert, the army was as
sembled, without tents or huts, or any covering to
shelter them from the inclemency of the weather :
and in truth we may fairly affirm, that our hardships
had here their commencement. After having been
exposed all day to a cold and pelting rain, we
landed upon a barren island, incapable of furnish
ing even fuel enough to supply our fires. To add
to our miseries, as night closed, the rain generally
ceased, and severe frosts set in ; which, congealing
our wet clothes upon our bodies, left little animal
warmth to keep the limbs in a state of activity ;
and the consequence was, that many of the
wretched negroes, to whom frost and cold were
altogether new, fell fast asleep, and perished before
morning. For provisions, again, we were entirely dependent
upon the fleet. There were here no living creatures
which would suffer themselves to be caught ; even
the water-fowls being so timorous, that it was im
possible to approach them within musket shot. Salt
meat and ship biscuit were, therefore, our food,
moistened by a small allowance of rum ; fare, which,
s3

262 PINE ISLAND.
though no doubt very wholesome, was not such as
to reconcUe us to the cold and wet under which we
suffered. On the part of the navy, again, all these hardships
were experienced in a four-fold degree. Night and
day were boats pulling from the fleet to the island,
and from the island to the fleet ; for it was the 2 1 st
before all the troops were got on shore ; and as there
was Uttle time to enquire into men's turns of labour,
many seamen were four or five days continually at
the oar. Thus, they had not only to bear up against
variety of temperature, but against hunger, fatigue,
and want of sleep in addition ; three as fearful bur
dens as can be laid upon the human frame. Yet, in
spite of all this, not a murmur nor a whisper of com
plaint could be heard throughout the whole expedi
tion. No man appeared to regard the present, whUe
every one looked forward to the future. From the
General, down to the youngest drum-boy, a confi
dent anticipation of success seemed to pervade all
ranks ; and in the hope of an ample reward in store
for them, the toils and grievances of the moment
were forgotten. Nor was this anticipation the mere
offspring of an over-weening confidence in them
selves. Several Americans had already deserted,
who entertained us Avith accounts of the alarm ex
perienced at New Orleans. They assured us that
there were not at present 5,000 soldiers in the State;
that the principal inhabitants had long ago left the

PINE ISLAND. 263
place ; that such as remained were ready to join us
as soon as we should appear among them ; and that,
therefore, we might lay our account with a speedy
and bloodless conquest. The same persons likewise
dUated upon the wealth and importance of the town,
upon the large quantities of government stores there
collected, and the rich booty which would reward
its capture ; subjects well calculated to tickle the
fancy of invaders, and to make them unmindful of
immediate afflictions, in the expectation of so great
a recompense.

s4

264 PINE ISLAND.

LETTER XIX.

While the troops were thus assembUng, an em
bassy was dispatched to the Chactaws, a tribe of
Indians with whom our government chanced to
be in aUiance. Along with this embassage I had
the good fortune to be sent ; and a most amusing
expedition it proved to be.
We set sail in a Ught schooner, and running
along the coast tiU we came to a district not far
from Apalachicola, pushed our vessel into a creek,
and landed. Proceeding a short distance from the
shore, we arrived at a considerable settlement of
these savages ; as singular a collection of human
habitations as ever I beheld. It consisted of up
wards of thirty huts, composed of reeds and
branches of trees, erected in the heart of a wood,
without any regard to form or regularity ; each
hut standing at a short distance from the rest. At
the doors of these huts sat the men, in a posture of
the most perfect indolence, with their knees bent
upwards, their elbows resting upon their knees,
and their chins upon their elbows. Not a word
was interchanged between man and man, while
they appeared to be totally absorbed, each in his

PINE ISLAND. 265
own private contemplations. The women, how
ever, were differently employed. Upon them, in
deed, aU the toil of domestic economy seemed to
have devolved; for they were carrying Avater,
spUtting wood, lighting fires, and cooking provi
sions. Some chUdren, though not so many as one
would have expected, from the extent of the set
tlement, were Ukewise playing about; but their
sports had little of the spirit of European games ;
and frequently ended in quarrels and combats.
On our approach, two men rose from the doors
of their huts, and came to meet us. These proved
to be the chief, and the principal warrior of the
tribe ; the first an elderly infirm person, and the
last a man of fierce countenance, probably about
the age of forty. They were not, however, dis
tinguished from their countrymen by any peculi
arity of dress ; being arrayed, as the others were,
in buffalo hides, Avith a loose scarf of cotton thrown
over one shoulder, and wrapped round their loins ;
the size of their ornaments alone indicated that
they were persons of consequence, the king having
tv/o broad pieces of gold suspended from his ears,
and bracelets of the same metal round his wrists ;
while the warrior's ears were graced with silver
rings, and a whole Spanish doUar hung from his
nose. With these men. Colonel NickoUs of the
Marines, who conducted the embassy, was well
acquainted, having been previously appointed Ge-

266 PINE ISLAND.
neraUssimo of aU their forces; and they therefore
extended to us the right hand of friendship, and
conducted us into the largest hut in the town.
The rest of the Avarriors were by this time roused
from their lethargy, and soon began to croAvd
about us ; so that in a few minutes the hut was
filled with upwards of an hundred savages, each
holding in his hand the fatal tomahawk, and hav
ing his scalping knife suspended from a belt
fastened round his middle. The scene was now
truly singular. There is a solemnity about the
manner of an Indian chief extremely imposing;
and this, joined with the motions which Avere
meant to express welcome, compelled me, almost
in spite of myself, to regard these half-naked
wretches with veneration.
With the form, complexion, and costume of an
American Indian, most Englishmen are weU ac
quainted. In stature, they hardly come up to the
common height of an European, and in appear
ance of robustness they are greatly inferior, being
generally spare and slender in their make. Nor,
indeed, do they at all equal the natives of Europe
in -strength. Their agility is superior to ours, but
in muscular power they fall much short of us.
Their complexion is a dark red, resembling brick-
dust rather than copper ; their hair is universally
long, coarse, and black ; they have Uttle or no
beard, and the body is entirely smooth. Theu-

PINE ISLAND. 267
features are high, and might perhaps be regular,
were nature left to herself; but they are usually
twisted and distorted into the most frightful
shapes, with the view of adding to the ferocity of
their looks. Their dress is of the simplest kind,
consisting partly of the skins of wild beasts, and
partly of a scarf, made of cotton cloth. For their
legs and feet they have no covering, and instead of
a cap, they wear their Own hair twined into a knot,
and ornamented with various coloured feathers.
Besides the tomahawk and scalping knife, each
man is armed with a rifle or firelock, in the use of
which they are exceedingly dexterous.
The women, again, are as much the reverse of
beautiful as it is easy to conceive. Being forced
by their husbands to undergo the greatest fatigues,
and to perform the most menial offices, their air
has in it nothing of the commanding dignity
which characterizes that of the men. On the con
trary, they are timid and servUe, never approaching
the other sex without humble prostrations : whUe
their shape is spoiled by hard labour, and their
features disfigured with ornaments. Whenever the
tribe marches, they are loaded with the children,
and all culinary utensils, the haughty warrior con
descending to carry nothing except his arms ; and
as soon as it halts, they are condemned to toil for
the benefit of the men, who throw themselves upon
the ground, and doze tiU their meal is prepared.

268 PINE ISLAND.
But I must not attempt to describe the manners
and customs of this strange people, which have
been so frequently and so much better described
already. I would rather relate such incidents as
fell under my own immediate observation, without
suffering my simple narrative to aim at a dignity
to which it is not entitled.
Having brought with us an interpreter, we were
informed by him that the king declined entering
upon business till after the feast. This was speedily
prepared, and laid out upon the grass, consisting
of lumps of Buffalo flesh, barely warmed through,
and swimming in blood ; with cakes of Indian
corn and manioc. Of dishes and plates, there were
none. The meat was brought in the hand of the
females who had dressed it, and placed upon the
turf; the warriors cut slices from it with their
knives ; and holding the flesh in one hand, and
the cake in the other, they eat, as I thought, rather
sparingly, and in profound silence. Besides these
more substantial viands, there were likewise some
minced-meats of an extraordinary appearance, served
up upon dried hides. Of these the company seemed
to be particularly fond, dipping their hands into
them without ceremony, and thus conveying the
food to their mouths ; but for my own part, I found
it sufficiently difficult to partake of the raw flesh,
and could not overcome my loathing so much as to
taste the mince.

PINE ISLAND. 269
When the remnant of the food was removed, an
abundant supply of rum, which these people had
received from our fleet, was produced. Of this
they swallowed large potations; and, as the spirit
took effect, their taciturnity gave way before it ;
tiU at last, speaking aU together, each endeavoured,
by elevating his voice, to drown the voices of his
companions, and a tremendous shouting was tlie
consequence. Springing from the ground, where
hitherto they had sat cross-legged, many of them
likewise began to jump about, and exhibit feats of
activity ; nor was I without apprehension that this
riotous banquet would end in bloodshed. The king
and chief warrior alone still retained their senses
sufficiently unclouded to understand what was
said. From them, therefore, we obtained a pro
mise, that the tribe would afford to the expedition
every assistance in their power ; after which we
retired for the night to a hut assigned for our ac
commodation, leaving our wild hosts to continue
the revel as long as a single drop of spirits re
mained. On the following morning, having presented the
warriors with muskets and ammunition, we de
parted, taking with us the two chiefs at their own
request. For this journey they had equipped
themselves in a most extraordinary manner ;
making their appearance in scarlet jackets, which
they had obtained from Colonel NickoUs, old fa-

270 PINE ISLAND.
shioned steel-bound cocked hats, and shoes. Trow
sers they would not wear, but permitted their
lower parts to remain with no other covering than
a girdle tied round their loins ; and sticking scalp
ing knives in their belts, and holding tomahawks
in their hands, they accompanied us to the fleet,
and took up their residence with the Admiral.
In the mean time, the disembarkation was going
on with much spirit. The cutters being taken,
and all difficulties removed, the troops began, on
the 16th, to quit the ships, and on the 21st, were
assembled in force upon Pine Island. But before
they could cross over to the main, it was necessary
that some arrangements should be made, and that
the different battalions should be divided into
corps and brigades. With this design. General
Keane reviewed his army on the 22d, and distri
buted it into the foUowing order.
Instead of a light brigade, he determined to form
three battalions into an advanced guard. The re
giments appointed to this service, were the 4th,
85th, and 95th ; and as an officer of courage and
enterprizing talent is required to lead the advance
of an army, they were put under the command of
Colonel Thornton. Attached to this corps of in
fantry, were a party of rocket-men, and two light
three-pounder guns ; a species of artiUery conve
nient enough, where celerity of movement is alone
regarded, but of very little service in the field.

PINE ISLAND. 271
The rest of the troops were arranged as before into
two brigades. The first composed of the 21st, 44th,
and one black regiment, was intrusted to Colonel
Brook; and the second, containing the 93d, and the
other black corps, to Colonel Hamilton, of the 7th
West India regiment. To each of these, a certain
proportion of artillery and rockets was allotted; while
the dragoons, who had brought their harness and
other appointments on shore, remained as a sort of
body-guard to the General, till they should provide
themselves with horses.
The adjustment of these matters having occu
pied a considerable part of the 22d, it was deter
mined that all things should remain as they were
tUl next morning. Boats, in the mean time, began
to assemble from all quarters, supplies of ammuni
tion were packed, so as to prevent the possibility of
damage from moisture, and stores of various de
scriptions were got ready. But it appeared, that
even now, many serious inconveniences must be
endured, and obstacles surmounted, before the
troops could reach the scene of action. In the
first place, from Pine Island to that part of the
main towards which prudence directed us to steer,
was a distance of no less than 80 miles. This, of
itself, was an obstacle, or at least an inconvenience
of no slight nature, for should the weather prove
boisterous, open boats heavUy laden with soldiers,
would stand little chance of escaping destruction,

272 THE LAKE.
in the course of so long a voyage. In the next
place, and what was of infinitely greater import
ance, it was found that there were not throughout
the whole fleet, a sufficient number of boats to
transport above one-third of the army at a time.
But to land in divisions, would expose our forces
to be attacked in detail, by which means, one party
might be cut to pieces before the others could
arrive to its support. The undertaking was, there
fore, on the whole, extremely dangerous, and such
as would have been probably abandoned by more
timid leaders. Ours, however, were not so to be
alarmed. They had entered upon a hazardous
business, in whatever way it should be prosecuted ;
and since they could not work miracles, they re
solved to lose no time in bringing their army into
the field, in the best manner which circumstances
would permit.
With this view, the advance, consisting of 1,600
men, and two pieces of cannon, was next morn
ing embarked. I have already stated that there is
a small creek, called the Bayo de CatUine, which
runs up from Lake Pontchartrain through the
middle of an extensive morass, about ten miles
below New Orleans. Towards this creek were
the boats directed, and here it was resolved to
effect a landing. When we set sail, the sky was
dark and lowering, and before long, a heavy rain
began to fall. Continuing without intermission

THE LAKE. 273
during the Avhole of the day, towards night it as
usual ceased, and was succeeded by a sharp frost ;
which taking effect upon men thoroughly exposed,
and already cramped by remaining so long in one
posture, rendered our limbs completely powerless.
Nor was there any means of dispelling the be
numbing sensation, or effectually resisting the
cold. Fires of charcoal, indeed, were lighted in
the sterns of the boats, and Avere suffered to burn
as long as day-light lasted ; but as soon as it greAV
dark, they were of necessity extinguished, lest
the flame should be seen by row-boats from the
shore, and an alarm be thus communicated. Our
situation was, therefore, the reverse of comfortable ;
since even sleep was denied us, from the appre
hension of fatal consequences.
Having remained in this uncomfortable state till
midnight, the boats cast anchor, and hoisted awn
ings. There w^as a smaU piquet of the enemy
stationed at the entrance of the creek, by which
we meant to effect our landing. This it was ab
solutely necessary to surprise ; and while the rest
lay at anchor, two or three fast sailing barges were
sent on to execute the service. Nor did they
experience much difficulty in accomplishing their
object. Nothing, as it appeared, was less dreamt
of by the Americans than an attack from this
quarter ; consequently, no persons could be less on
their guard than the party here stationed. The

274 LANDING.
officer who conducted the force sent against them,
found not so much as a single sentinel posted ;
but having landed his men at tAvo places, above
and below the hut which they inhabited, extended
his ranks so as to surround it, and closing gra
dually in, took them all fast asleep, without noise
or resistance.
When such time had been aUowed as was
deemed sufficient for the accompUshment of this
undertaking, the flotilla again weighed anchor, and
without waiting for intelligence of success, pur
sued their voyage. Hitherto we had been hurried
along at a rapid rate by a fair breeze, which ena
bled us to carry canvass ; but this now left us, and
we made way only with rowing. Our progress
was, therefore, considerably retarded, and the risk
of discovery heightened by the noise which that
labour necessarily occasions ; but in spite of all
this, we reached the entrance of the creek by
dawn ; and about nine o'clock, were safely on
shore. The place where we landed was as wild as it is
possible to imagine. W^herever we looked, no
thing was to be seen except one huge marsh, co
vered with tall reeds ; not a house, nor a vestige
of human industry could be discovered ; and even
of trees, there were but a few growing upon the
banks of the creek. Yet it was such a spot as,
above all others, favoured our operations. No eye

LANDING. 275
could watch us, or report our arrival to the Ame
rican General. By remaining quietly among the
reeds, we might effectually conceal ourselves from
notice ; because, from the appearance of all around,
it was easy to perceive that the place which we
occupied was seldom, if ever before marked with a
human footstep. Concealment, however, was the
thing of aU others which we required, for be it
remembered, that there were now only sixteen hun
dred men on the main land. The rest were stiU at
Pine Island, where they must remain till the boats
which had transported us should return for their
conveyance, consequently many hours must elapse
before this small corps could be either reinforced
or supported. If, therefore, we had sought for a
point where a descent might be made in secrecy and
safety, we could not have found one better cal
culated for that purpose than the present ; because
it afforded every means of concealment to one
part of our force, until the others should be able to
come up.
It was, therefore, confidently expected, that no
movement would be made previous to the arrival
of the other brigades ; but, in our expectations of
quiet, we were deceived. The deserters who had
come in, and accompanied us as guides, assured
the General that he had only to show himself,
when the whole district would submit. They re
peated, that there were not five thousand men in
t2

276 MARCH.
arms throughout the state ; that of these, not more
than twelve hundred were regular soldiers, and that
the whole was at present several mUes on the oppo
site side of the town, expecting an attack on that
quarter, and apprehending no danger on this. These
arguments, together with the nature of the ground
on which we stood, so ill calculated for a proper
distribution of troops, in case of attack, and so well
calculated to hide the movements of a force ac
quainted with aU the passes and tracks which, for
aught we knew, intersected the morass, induced our
leader to push forward at once into the open
country. As soon, therefore, as the advance was
formed, and the boats had departed, we began our
march, following an indistinct path along the edge
of a ditch or canal. It was not, however, without
many checks that we were able to proceed. Other
ditches, similar to that whose course we pursued,
frequently stopped us by running in a cross direc
tion, and falling into it at right angles. These were
too wide to be leaped, and too deep to be forded ;
consequently, on all such occasions, the troops were
obliged to halt, while bridges were hastily con
structed of what materials could be procured, and
thrown across.
Having advanced in this manner for several
hours, we, at length, found ourselves approaching
a more cultivated region. The marsh became
gradually less and less continued, being intercepted

MARCfi. 277
by wider spots of firm ground ; and the reeds gave
place, by degrees, to wood ; and the wood to in
closed fields. Upon these, however, nothing grew,
harvest having long ago ended. They presented,
therefore, but a melancholy appearance, being co
vered with the stubble of sugar-cane, which resem
bled the reeds we had just quitted, in every thing
except altitude. Nor as yet was any house or
cottage to be seen. Though we knew, therefore,
that human habitations could not be far off, it was
impossible to guess where they lay, or how nu
merous they might prove ; and as we could not teU
whether our guides might not be deceiving us, and
whether ambuscades might not be laid for our de
struction, as soon as we should arrive where troops
could conveniently act, our march was now con
ducted with more caution and regularity.
But in a little while, some groves of orange trees
presented themselves ; on passing which, two or
three farm-houses appeared. Towards these, our
advanced companies immediately hastened, with
the hope of surprising the inhabitants, and prevent
ing any alarm from being raised. Hurrying on at
double quick time, they surrounded the buildings,
succeeded in securing the inmates, and capturing
several horses ; but becoming rather careless in
watching their prisoners, one man contrived to ef
fect his escape ; after which, all hope of elading
observation was laid aside. The rumour of our
t3

278 HALT.
landing would, we kncAv, spread faster than we
could march ; and it now only remained to make
that rumour as terrible as possible.
With this view, the column was ordered to Aviden
its files, and to present as formidable an appearance
as could be assumed. Changing our order, there
fore, we marched, not in sections of eight or ten
abreast, but in pairs, and thus contrived to cover
with our smaU division as large a track of ground
as if we had mustered thrice our present numbers.
Our steps were Ukewise quickened, that we might
gain, if possible, some advantageous position, where
we might be able to cope with any force that might
attack us ; and thus hastening on, we soon arrived
at the main road, which leads directly to New Or
leans. Turning to the right, we then advanced in
the direction of that town for about a mile ; when
having reached a spot where it was considered that
we might encamp in comparative safety, our little
column halted ; the men piled their arms, and a
regular bivouac was formed.
The country where we had now established
ourselves, answered, in every respect, the descrip
tion I have already given of the neck of land on
which New Orleans is built. It was a narroAv
plain of about a mile in width, bounded on one
side by the Mississippi, and on the other by the
marsh from which we had just emerged. To
Avards the open ground, this marsh was covered

HALT. 279
with dwarf-wood, having the semblance of a forest,
rather than of a swamp ; but on trying the bottom,
it was found that both characters were united, and
that it was impossible for a man to make his way
among he trees, so boggy was the soil upon which
they grew. In no other quarter, however, was
there a single hedge-row, or plantation of any kind ;
excepting a few apple and other fruit trees in
the gardens of such houses as were scattered over
the plain, the whole being laid out in large
fields for the growth of sugar-cane ; a plant which
seems as abundant in this part of the world as in
Jamaica. Looking up towards the town, which we at this
time faced, the marsh is upon your right, and the
river upon your left. Close to the latter runs the
main road, following the course of the stream aU
the way to New Orleans. Between the road and
the water, is thrown up a lofty and strong embank
ment, resembling the dykes in Holland, and
meant to serve a similar purpose ; by means of
which, the Mississippi is prevented from overflow
ing its banks, and the entire flat is preserved from
inundation. But the attention of a stranger is
irresistibly drawn away from every other object, to
contemplate the magnificence of this noble river.
Pouring along at the prodigious rate of four miles
an hour, an immense body of water is spread out
T 4

280 HALT.
before you ; measuring a fuU mUe across, and nearly
a hundred fathoms in depth. What this mighty
stream must be near its mouth, I can hardly ima
gine, for we were here upwards of a hundred miles
from the ocean.
Such was the general aspect of the country which
we had entered ; our own position, again, was this.
The three regiments turning off from the road into
one extensive green field, formed three close co
lumns within pistol-shot of the river. Upon our
right, but so much in advance as to be of no
service to us, was a large house, surrounded by
about twenty wooden huts, probably intended
for the accommodation of slaves. Towards this
house, there was a slight rise in the ground,
and between it and the camp was a small pond
of no great depth. As far to the rear again as
the first was to the front, stood another house,
inferior in point of appearance, and skirted by
no out-buildings : this was also upon the right ;
and here General Keane, who accompanied us,
fixed his head-quarters ; but neither the one nor
the other could be employed as a covering re
doubt, the flank of the division extending, as it
were, between them. Immediately in front, where
the advanced posts were stationed, ran a dry
ditch and a row of lofty palings ; and thus, both
it and the left were in some degree protected ;

HALT. 281
while the right and rear were whoUy without cover.
Though we occupied this field, therefore, and might
have looked well in a peaceable district, it must be
confessed that our situation hardly deserved the title
of a military position.

282 HALT.

LETTER XX.
Noon had just passed, when the word was given
to halt, and therefore every opportunity was af
forded of posting the piquets with leisure and at
tention. Nor was this deemed enough to secure
tranquUlity : several parties were sent out in aU
directions to reconnoitre, who returned with an
account that no enemy, nor any trace of an enemy,
could be discerned. The troops were accordingly
suffered to light fires, and to make themseh'es com
fortable ; only their accoutrements were not taken
off, and the arms were piled in such form as to be
within reach at a moment's notice.
As soon as these agreeable orders were issued,
the soldiers proceeded to obey them both in letter
and in spirit. Tearing up a number of strong
palings, large fires were lighted in a moment ;
water was brought from the river, and provisions
were cooked. But their bare rations did not con
tent them. Spreading themselves over the country
as far as a regard to safety would permit, they
entered every house, and brought away quantities
of hams, fowls, and wines of various descriptions ;
which being divided among them, all fared well.

HALT. 283
and none received too large a quantity. In this
division of good things, they were not unmindful
of their officers ; for upon active warfare the officers
are considered by the privates as comrades, to whom
respect and obedience are due, rather than as
masters. It was now about three o'clock in the afternoon,
and all had as yet remained quiet. The troops
having finished their meal, lay stretched beside
their fires, or refreshed themselves by bathing, for
to-day the heat was such as to render this latter
employment extremely' agreeable, when suddenly
a bugle from the advanced posts sounded the alarm,
which was echoed back from aU in the army.
Starting up, we stood to our arms,. and prepared for
battle, the alarm being now succeeded by some
firing ; but we were scarcely in order, when word
was sent from the front that there was no danger,
only a few horse having made their appearance,
who were checked and put to flight at the first
discharge. Upon this intelligence, our wonted con
fidence returned, and we again betook ourselves to
our former occupations, remarking that, as the
Americans had never yet dared to attack, there was
no great probability of their doing so on the present
occasion. In this manner the day passed without any far
ther alarm ; and darkness having set in, the fires
were made to blaze wdth increased splendour, our

284 ATTACK.
evening meal was eat, and we prepared to sleep.
But about half-past seven o'clock, the attention of
several individuals was drawn to a large vessel,
which seemed to be stealing up the river tiU she
came opposite to our camp ; when her anchor was
dropped, and her sails leisurely furled. At first we
were doubtful whether she might not be one of
our own cruisers which had passed the port unob
served, and had arrived to render her assistance in
our future operations. To satisfy this doubt, she
was repeatedly hailed, but returned no answer ;
when an alarm spreading through the bivouac, aU
thought of sleep was laid aside. Several musket
shots were now fired at her with the design of ex
acting a reply, of which no notice was taken ; till
at length having fastened all her sails, and swung
her broad-side towards us, we could distinctly hear
some one cry out in a commanding voice, ' Give
them this for the honour of America.' The words
were instantly foUowed by the flashes of her guns,
and a deadly shower of grape swept down numbers
in the camp.
Against this dreadful fire we had nothing what
ever to oppose. The artUlery which we had landed
was too Ught to bring into competition with an
adversary so powerful; and as she had anchored
within a short distance of the opposite bank, no
musketry could reach her with any precision or
effect. A few rockets were discharged, which

ATTACK. 285
made a beautiful appearance in the air; but the
rocket is an uncertain weapon, and these deviated
too far from their object to produce even terror
among those against whom they were directed.
Under these circumstances, as nothing could be
done offensively, our sole object was to shelter the
men as much as possible from this iron hail. With
this view, they were commanded to leave the fires,
and to hasten under the dyke. Thither all, ac
cordingly, repaired, without much regard to order
and regularity, and laying ourselves along where-
ever we could find room, we listened in painful
silence to the pattering of grape shot among our
huts, and to the shrieks and groans of those who
lay wounded beside them.
The night was now as dark as pitch, the moon
being but young, and totally obscured with clouds.
Our fires deserted by us, and beat about by the
enemy's shot, began to burn red and dull, and, ex
cept when the flashes of those guns which played
upon us cast a momentary glare, not an object
could be distinguished at the distance of a yard.
In this state we lay for nearly an hour, unable to
move from our ground, or offer any opposition to
those who kept us there ; when a straggling fire of
musketry called our attention towards the piquets,
and warned us to prepare for a closer and more
desperate strife. As yet, however, it was un
certain from what cause this dropping fire arose.

2^6 ATTACK.
It might proceed from the sentinels, who, alarmed
by the cannonade from the river, mistook every
tree for an American ; and tiU this should be more
fully ascertained, it would be improper to expose
the troops, by moving any of them from the shelter
which the bank afforded. But these doubts were
not permitted to continue long in existence. The
dropping fire having paused for a few moments,
was succeeded by a fearful yeU ; and the heavens
were illuminated on all sides by a semi-circular
blaze of musketry. It was now clear that we were
surrounded, and that by a very superior force ; and,
therefore, no alternative remaining, but, either to
surrender at discretion, or to beat back the as
sailants. The first of these plans was never for an instant
thought of; and the second was immediately put
into force. Rushing from under the bank, the
85th and 95th flew to support the piquets, while
the 4th, stealing to the rear of the encampment,
formed close column, and remained as a reserve.
But to describe this action is altogether out of the
question, for it was such a battle as the annals of
modern warfare can hardly match. All order, aU
discipline were lost. Each officer, as he was able
to collect twenty or thirty men round him, ad
vanced into the middle of the enemy, when it was
fought hand to hand, bayonet to bayonet, and

ATTACK. 287
sword to sword, with the tumult and ferocity of
one of Homer's combats.
To give some idea of this extraordinary combat,
I shall detaU the adventures of a friend of mine,
who chanced to accompany one of the first parties
sent out. Dashing through the bivouac under a
heavy discharge from the vessel, his party reached
the lake, which was forded, and advanced as far
as the house where General Keane had fixed his
head quarters. The moon had by this time made
her way through the clouds ; and though only in
her first quarter gave light enough to permit their
seeing, though not distinctly. Having now gone
far enough to the right, the party pushed on to
wards the front, and entered a sloping field of
stubble ; at the upper end of which they could
distinguish a dark line of men ; but, whether they
were friends or foes it was impossible to determine.
UnwUling to fire, lest he should kiU any of our
own people, my friend led on the volunteers whom
he had got round him, till they reached some thick
pUes of reeds, about twenty yards from the object
of their notice. Here they were saluted by a sharp
volley, and being now confident that they were
enemies, he commanded his men to fire. But a
brother officer who accompanied him, was not so
convinced, assuring him that they were soldiers of
the 95th, upon which they agreed to divide the
forces ; that he who doubted, should remain with

288 FLIGHT OF THE ENEMY.
one part, where he was, while my friend, with the
rest, should go round upon the flank of this line,
and discover certainly to which army it belonged.
Taking with him about fourteen men, he ac
cordingly moved off to the right, when falling in
with some other stragglers, he attached them like
wise to his party, and advanced. Springing over
a high raU, they came down upon the left of those
concerning whom the doubt had existed, and found
them to be, as my friend had supposed, Americans.
Not a moment was lost in attacking, but having
got unperceived, witjjin a few feet of where they
stood, they discharged their pieces, and rushed on
to the charge. In the whole course of my miU
tary career, I do not recollect any scene at all
resembling that which followed. Some soldiers
having lost their bayonets, laid about them with
the butt end of their firelocks ; while many a
sword, which tUl to-night had not drunk blood,
became in a few minutes crimsoned enough.
The contest, though desperate, was of short dura
tion. Panic-struck at the vigour of the assault, the
Americans soon fled, and our people pursued them
through a garden, and into the middle of the huts,
which I have stated as surrounding a large house
upon the right front of our original position. Here
they found a considerable number of our own men,
and one or two officers taken, and guarded by a
detachment of Americans. These they imme-

HALT. 289
diately released, who, catching up what weapons
they could find, foUowed their liberators in the
chace of the flying enemy.
But, having now got as far in advance of the
main body as he considered prudent, my friend de
termined to pause here, till he should discover how
things went in other parts of the field.
With this view he halted his party, amounting,
by the late addition, to forty men and two officers ;
and proceeding alone towards the front, he descried
another line, of the length of one strong battalion,
at the bottom of a field on the ^eft. Being anxious
to discover who they were, he walked forward,'
when a v^oice from among them called out not to
fire, because they were Americans. But my friend
had more in view than merely to discover what
countrymen they were, and therefore, answering
as one of themselves, he demanded to what corps
they belonged ? To this the speaker replied, that
they were the 2d battalion of the 1st Regiment,
and requested to be informed what had become of
the ist battalion. Still imitating the American
twang, my friend again made answer that it was
upon his right ; and assuming a tone of authority,
commanded them to remain as they were, till he
should join them with a party of which he was at
the head.
Having ended this conversation, he returned to
the viUage, and forming his party in line, led them

290 COMBAT.
on in deep silence towards the 2d battaUon of the
1st Regiment. As they drew near he caUed out for
the commanding officer, or him who had spoken,
to come forward, adding that he had something to
communicate ; upon which an elderly man, armed
with a huge dragoon sabre, advanced to meet him.
As soon as they were together, my friend seized
his sword, and desired him to surrender, declaring
that he and his regiment were surrounded, and that
resistance would only occasion unnecessary blood
shed. The man was completely confounded, and
resigned his sword immediately ; when, turning to
another officer, he demanded his. This person,
however, was younger, and appeared to have his
wits more about him, for, instead of giving up his
weapon, he made a cut at my friend's head, which
he had scarcely time to ward off. Their country
men, likewise, who had hitherto stood motionless,
took courage at the deed, and began firing ; 'when,
as all chance of cheating them into a surrender was
at an end, our soldiers dashed amongst them, and
once more renewed the combat hand in hand.
But though the enemy had so far recovered from
their panic as to refuse a surrender, their resolution
did not prompt them to any determined resistance.
Charged as they were upon the flank, it is not
wonderful that they soon feU into confusion, and
being closely pressed by the brave little party,
they had no time given to rally. In less than an

COMBAT. 291
hour, therefore, they began to fly ; and as my
friend considered that he had been rash enough in
attacking a force so superior, with a handful of
men, he did not add to that rashness, by con
tinuing the pursuit too far ; but having chased
them a little way, recalled his followers, and" re
turned to the hamlet.
In giving a detail so minute of the adventures
of an individual, on the present occasion, I am far
from wishing to exhibit him in the light of a hero
of romance. The fact is, that what he did, was
done in a greater or less degree by every officer in
the army ; for this was a combat which compelled
every man, in spite of himself, to rely solely on his
own resources. Attacked unexpectedly, and in
the dark, surrounded by enemies before any ar
rangements could be made to oppose them, it is
not conceivable that order, or the rules of disci
plined war, could be preserved. We were mingled
with the Americans, frequently before we could
tell whether they were friends or foes ; because
speaking the same language with ourselves, there
was no mark by which to distinguish them, at least
none whose influence extended beyond the dis
tance of a feAv paces. The consequence was, that
more feats of individual gallantry were performed
in the course of this night, than many campaigns
might have afforded an opportunity of performing ;
while viewing the affair as a regular action, none
u 2

292 COMBAT.
can be imagined more fuU of blunders and con
fusion. No man could tell what was going for
ward in any quarter, except where he himself
chanced immediately to stand ; no one part of the
Une could bring assistance to another, because, in
truth, no Une existed. It was in one word a per
fect tumult, resembling, except in its fatal conse
quences, those scenes which the night of an Irish
fair usually exhibits, much more than an engage
ment between two civilized armies.
The night was far spent, and the sound of fight
ing had begun to die away, when my friend once
more established himself among the huts. Here,
likewise, considerable numbei*s of our people as
sembled, from whom he learned that the enemy
were repulsed on all sides. The combat had been
long and obstinately contested, having begun at
eight in the evening, and continuing tUl three in
the morning, but the victory was decidedly ours ;
for the Americans retreated in the greatest dis
order, leaving us in possession of the field. Our
loss, however, was enormous. Not less than 500
men had fallen, many of whom were our finest sol
diers and best officers, and yet we could not but
consider ourselves fortunate in escaping from the
toils, even at the expence of so great a sacrifice.
The recaU being sounded, our troops were soon
brought together, and filing to the left, formed
line in front of the ground, where we had at first

FIELD OF BATTLE. 293
encamped. Here we remained ready for whatever
might occur till morn, when, to avoid 'the fire of
the vessel, we again betook ourselves to the bank,
and lay down. For some hours past, indeed, she
had ceased to annoy us, but this we knew was owing
merely to the ignorance of her crew, where to
direct her aim : and we were well aware that, un
less we contrived to cover ourselves before that
ignorance was removed, we should undoubtedly
suffer for our temerity.
Day-Ught was beginning to appear, and we were
just able to distinguish that our enemy was a fine
schooner, pierced for eighteen guns, and crowded
with men, when we retreated to the bank. Here
we lay for some hours worn out with fatigue and
want of sleep, and shivering in the cold air of a
frosty morning, without being able to light a fire,
or prepare a morsel of provisions. Whenever an
attempt of the kind was made, as soon as two or
three men began to steal from shelter, the schoon
er's guns immediately opened ; and thus was the
whole diAdsion kept, as it were, prisoners, for the
space of an entire day.
While our troops lay in this uncomfortable situa
tion, I stole away with two or three men to find
out and bury a friend who was among the slain.
In wandering over the field for this purpose, the
most shocking and disgusting sights every where
presented themselves. I have frequently beheld
u3

294 FIELD OF BATTLE.
a greater number of dead bodies in as smaU a com
pass, though these, indeed, were numerous enough,
but wounds more disfiguring or more horrible, I
certainly never witnessed. A man, shot through
the head or heart, lies as if he were in a deep
slumber ; insomuch, that when you gaze upon
him, you experience little else than pity. But of
these many had met their death from bayonet
wounds, sabre cuts, or heavy blows from the butt
ends of muskets ; and the consequence was, that
not only were the wounds themselves exceedingly
frightful, but the very countenances of the dead
exhibited the most savage and ghastly expressions.
Friends and foes lay together in small groups of
four or six, nor Avas it difficult to tell almost the
very hand by which some of them had fallen. Nay,
such had been the deadly closeness of the strife, that
in one or two places, an English and American
soldier might be seen with the bayonet of each
fastened in the other's body.
Having searched for some time in vaiii, I at
length discovered my friend lying behind a bundle
of reeds, where, during the action, we had se
parated ; and shot through the temples by a rifle
buUet so remarkably smaU, as scarcely to leave any
trace of its progress. I am weU aware that this
is no fit place to introduce the working of my
own personal feeUngs, but he was my friend, and
such a friend as few men are happy enough to

FIELD OF BATTLE. 295
possess. We had known and loved each other for
years ; our regard had been cemented by a long
participation in the same hardships and dangers ;
and it cannot therefore surprise, if even now I
pay that tribute to his worth and our friendship,
which, however unavailing it may be, they both
deserve. When in the act of looking for him, I had flat
tered myself, that I should be able to bear his loss
with something like philosophy, but when I be
held him pale and bloody, I found aU my resolution
evaporate. I threw myself on the ground beside
him, and wept like a child. But this was no time
for the indulgence of useless sorrow. Like the
royal bard, I knew that I should go to him, but he
could not return to me, and I could not tell
whether an hour would pass before my summons
would arrive. Lifting him, therefore, upon a cart,
I had him carried down to head-quarter house, now
converted into an hospital, and having dug for him
a grave at the bottom of the garden, I laid him
there as a soldier should be laid, arrayed, not in a
shroud, but in his uniform. Even the very pri
vates, whom I brought with me to assist at his
funeral, mingled their tears with mine, nor are
many so fortunate as to return to the parent dust
more deeply o;r more sincerely lamented.
Retiring from the performance of this melancholy
duty, I strolled into the hospital, and visited the
u4

296 HOSPITAL.
wounded. It is here that war loses its grandeur
and show, and presents only a real picture of its
effects. Every room in the house was crowded
with wretches mangled, and apparently in the most
excruciating agonies. Prayers, groans, and I
grieve to add, the most horrid exclamations, smote
upon the ear wherever I turned. Some lay at
length upon straw, with eyes half closed, and
limbs motionless ; some endeavoured to start up,
shrieking with pain, while the wandering eye and
incoherent speech of others, indicated the loss of
reason, and usually foretold the approach of death.
But there was one among the rest, whose appear
ance was too horrible ever to be forgotten. He had
been shot through the wind-pipe, and the breath
making its way betAveen the skin and the flesh, had
dilated him to a size absolutely terrific. His head
and face were particularly shocking. Every fea
ture was enlarged beyond what can well be ima
gined; while his eyes were so completely hidden
by the cheeks and forehead, as to destroy aU re
semblance to an human countenance.
Passing through the apartments where the pri
vate soldiers lay, I next came to those occupied by
officers. Of these there were five or six in one
small room, to whom little better accommodation
could be provided than to their inferiors. It was
a sight pecuUarly distressing, because aU of them
chanced to be personal acquaintances of my own.

HOSPITAL. 297
One had been shot in the head, and lay gasping and
insensible ; another had received a musket ball in
the belly, which had pierced through and lodged
in the back bone. The former appeared to suffer
but little, giving no sighs of life, except what
a heavy breathing produced ; the latter was in
the most dreadful agony, screaming out, and gnaw
ing the covering under which he lay. There were
many besides these, some severely, and others
slightly hurt ; but as I have already dwelt at suffi
cient length upon a painful subject, I shall only
observe, that to all was afforded every assistance
which circumstances would allow ; and that the
exertions of their medical attendants were such, as
deserved and obtained the gratefiil thanks of even
the most afflicted among the sufferers themselves.

298 ADVANCE.

LETTER XXI.
In the mean time the rest of the troops were land
ing as fast as possible, and hastening to join their
comrades. Though the advance had set out from
Pine Island by themselves, they did not occupy all
the boats in the fleet. Part of the second brigade,
therefore, had embarked about twelve hours after
their departure; and rowing leisurely on, were
considerably more than half way across the lakes
when the action began. In the stiUness of night,
however, it is astonishing at what distance a
noise is heard. Though they must have been
at least twenty miles from the Bayo when the
schooner first opened, the sound of firing reached
them, and roused the rowers from their indolence.
PuUing with all their might, they now hurried on,
whUe the most profound silence reigned among the
troops, and gaining the creek in little more than
three hours, sent fresh reinforcements to share in
the danger and glory of the night.
Nor was a moment lost by the saUors in return
ing to the island. InteUigence of the combat
spread Uke wild-fire ; the boats were loaded even
beyond what was strictly safe, and thus by exert-

ADVANCE. 299
ing themselves in a degree almost unparalleled, our
gaUant seamen succeeded in bringing the whole
army into position before dark on the 24th. The
second and third brigades, therefore, now took up
their ground upon the spot where the late battle
was fought, and resting their right upon the woody
morass, extended so far towards the river, as that
the advance by wheeling up might continue the
line across the entire plain.
But instead of taking part in this formation, the
Mvance was still fettered to the bank, from which
it was additionally prevented from moving by the
arrival of another large ship, which cast anchor
about a mUe above the schooner. Thus were three
battalions kept stationary by the guns of these two
formidable floating batteries, and it was clear that
no attempt to extricate them could be made with
out great loss, unless under cover of night. During
the whole of the 24th, therefore, they remained in
this uncomfortable situation ; but as soon as dark
ness had weU set in, a change of position was
effected. Withdrawing the troops, company by
company, from behind the bank. General Keane
stationed them in the vUlage of huts ; by which
means the high road was abandoned to the protec
tion of a piquet, and the left of the army covered
by a large chateau.
Being now placed beyond risk of serious an
noyance from the shipping, the whole army re-

300 ADVANCE.
mained quiet for the night. Hoav long we were
to continue in this state, nobody appeared to know ;
not a whisper was circulated as to the time of ad
vancing, nor a surmise ventured respecting the
next step likely to be taken. In our guides, to
whose rumours we had before listened with avi
dity, no farther confidence was reposed. It was
perfectly evident, either that they had purposely
deceived us, or that their information was gathered
from a most imperfect source ; therefore, though they
were not exactly placed in confinement, they were
strictly watched, and treated more like spies than
deserters. Instead of an easy conquest, we had
already met with vigorous opposition ; instead of
finding the inhabitants ready and eager to join us,
we found the houses deserted, the cattle and horses
driven away, and every appearance of hostUity.
To march by the only road was rendered imprac
ticable, so completely was it commanded by the
shipping. In a word, aU things had turned out dia
metrically opposite to what had been anticipated ;
and it appeared, that instead of a trifling affair
more likely to fiU our pockets, than to add to our
renown, we had embarked in an undertaking which
presented difficulties not to be surmounted without
patience and determination.
Having effected this change of position, and co
vered the front of his army with a strong chain of
outposts. General Keane, as I have said, remained

ADVANCE. 301
quiet during the remainder of the night, and on
the morrow was relieved from farther care and re
sponsibility by the unexpected arrival of Sir Ed
ward Pakenham, and General Gibbs. As soon as
the death of Ross was known in London, the for
mer of these officers was dispatched to take upon
himself the command of the army. Sailing im
mediately with the latter, as his second in com
mand, he had been favoured, during the whole
voyage, by a fresh and fair wind, and now arrived
in time to see his troops brought into a situation
from which all his abilities could scarcely expect
to extricate them. Nor were the troops themselves
ignorant of the unfavourable circumstances in
which they stood. Hoping every thing, therefore,
from a change, they greeted their new leader with
a hearty cheer ; while the confidence which past
events had tended in some degree to dispel, re
turned once more to the bosoms of all. It was
Christmas Day, and a number of officers clubbing
their little stock of provisions, resolved to dine to
gether in memory of former times. But at so me
lancholy a Christmas dinner I do not recollect at
any time to have been present. We dined in a
barn ; of plates, knives and forks, there was a dismal
scarcity, nor could our fare boast of much either
in intrinsic good quality, or in the way of cooking.
These, however, were mere matters of merriment :
it was the want of many well known and beloved

302 ATTACK.
faces that gave us pain; nor were any other sub
jects discussed, besides the amiable qualities of those
who no longer formed part of our mess, and never
would again form part of it. A few guesses as to
the probable success of future attempts alone re-
Ueved this topic, and now and then a shot from
the schooner drew our attention to ourselves ; for
though too far removed from the river to be in
much danger, we were stUl within cannon shot of
our enemy. Nor was she inactive in her attempts
to molest. Elevating her guns to a great degree,
she contrived occasionaUy to strike the wall of the
building within which we sat ; but the force of the
baU was too far spent to penetrate, and could there
fore produce no serious alarm.
While we were thus sitting at table, a loud shriek
was heard, after one of these explosions, and on run
ning out, we found that a shot had taken effect in
the body of an unfortunate soldier. I mention this
incident, because I never beheld in any human being
so great a tenacity of life. Though fairly cut in
two at the lower part of the belly, the poor wretch
iived for nearly an hour, gasping for breath, and
giving signs even of pain.
But to return to my narrative: as soon as he
reached the camp. Sir Edward proceeded to exa
mine, with a soldier's eye, every point and place
within view. Of the American army nothing
whatever could be perceived, except a corps of oh-

ATTACK. 303
servation, composed of five or six hundred mounted
riflemen, which hovered along our front, and
watched our motions. The town itself was com
pletely hid, nor was it possible to see beyond the
distance of a very few miles, either in front or rear,
so flat and unbroken was the face of the country.
Under these circumstances, little insight into the
state of affairs could be obtained by reconnoitring.
The only thing, indeed, which he could learn from
it was, that while the vessels kept their present
station upon the river, no advance could be made ;
and, as he felt that every moment's delay was in
jurious to us, and favourable to the enemy, he re
solved to remove these incumbrances, and to push
forward as soon as possible.
With this view nine field-pieces, two howitzers,
and one mortar were brought down to the brink
of the stream, as soon as it was dark. Working
parties were likewise ordered out, by whom a bat
tery was thrown up opposite to the schooner; and
having got all things in readiness, at dawn on the
26th a heavy cannonade was opened upon her with
red-hot shot. It was not long before we could
perceive her crew hastening into their boats, while
the smoke, which^ began to rise from her decks,
proved that the baUs had taken effect. She was,
in fact, on fire, and being abandoned without re
sistance in little more than an hour, she blew up.
In itself the sight was a fine one, but to us it

304 ATTACK.
was peculiarly gratifying, for we could not but ex
perience something Uke satiated revenge at the
destruction of a vessel from which we had suffered
so much damage. A loud shout accordingly fol
lowed the explosion, and the guns were imme
diately turned against the ship. But the fate of
her companion had warned her not to remain till
she herself should be attacked. Setting every inch
of canvass, and hoisting out her boats, she began
to stem the stream at the very instant the schooner
took fire, and being impelled forward both by tow
ing and sailing, she succeeded in getting beyond the
range of shot before the guns could be brought to
bear. One shell, however, was thrown with admira
ble precision, which falling upon her deck, caused
considerable execution ; but, excepting this, she
escaped without injury, and did not anchor again
till she had got too far for pursuit.
Having thus removed all apparent obstacles to
his future progress, the General made dispositions
for a speedy advance. Dividing the army into two
columns, he appointed General Gibbs to the com
mand of one, and General Keane to the command
of the other. The left column, led on by the latter
officer, consisted of the 95th, the 85th, the 93d,
and one black corps; the right, of the 4th, 21st,
44th, and the other black corps. The artillery, of
which we had now ten pieces in the field, though
at present attached to the left column, was designed

ATTACK. 305
to act as circumstances and the nature of the
ground would permit ; whUe the dragoons, few of
whom had as yet provided themselves with horses,
were appointed to guard the hospitals, and to secure
the wounded from any sudden surprise or moles
tation from the rear.
But the day was too far spent in making these
arrangements, and in clearing the way for future
operations, to permit any movement before the
morrow. The whole of the 26th was therefore
spent in bringing up stores, ammunition, and a few
heavy guns from the ships, which being placed in
battery upon the banks of the river, secured us
against the return of our floating adversary. All
this was done quietly enough, nor was there any
cause of alarm till after sun-set ; but from that
time till towards dawn, we were kept in a constant
state of anxiety and agitation. Sending doAvn
small bodies of riflemen, the American General
harassed our piquets, kiUed and wounded a few of
the sentinels, and prevented the main body from
obtaining any sound or refreshing sleep. Scarcely
had the troops lain down, when they were roused
by a sharp firing at the outposts, which lasted only
till they were in order, and then ceased ; but as
soon as they had dispersed, and had once more
addressed themselves to repose, the same cause of
alarm returned, and they were again called to their
ranks. Thus was the entire night spent in watch-
X

306 ATTACK.
ing, or at best in broken and disturbed slumbers,
than which nothing is more trying, both to the
health and spirits of an army.
With the piquets, again, it fared even worse.
For the outposts of an army to sleep is at all times
considered as a thing impossible ; but in modern
and civilized warfare they are nevertheless looked
upon, in some degree, as sacred. Thus, while two
European armies remain inactively facing each
other, the outposts of neither are molested, unless
a direct attack upon the main body be intended ;
nay, so far is this tacit good understanding carried,
that I have myself beheld French and EngUsh sen
tinels not more than twenty yards apart. But the
Americans entertained no such chivalric notions.
An enemy was to them an enemy, whether alone,
or in the midst of five thousand companions ; and
they therefore counted the death of every indivi
dual as so much taken from the strength of the
Avhole. In point of fact, they no doubt reasoned
correctly, but to us at least it appeared an unge
nerous return to barbarity. Whenever they could
approach unperceived within proper distance of
our watch fires, six or eight riflemen would fire
amongst the party that sat round them, while one or
two, stealing as close to each sentinel as a regard to
their own safety would permit, acted the part of
assassins rather than of soldiers, and attempted to
murder them in cold blood. For the officers, Uke-

MARCH. 307
wise, when going their rounds, they constantly lay
in wait ; and thus, by a continued dropping fire,
they not only wounded some of those against
whom their aim was directed, but occasioned con
siderable anxiety and uneasiness throughout the
whole Une.
Having continued this detestable system of war
fare tiU towards morning, they retired, and left us
at rest. But as soon as day began to break, our
piquets were called in, and the troops formed in
order of attack. The right column, under General
Gibbs, took post near the skirts of the morass,
throwing out skirmishers half way across the plain,
while the left column drew up upon the road co
vered by the rifle corps, which in extended order
met the skirmishers from the other. With this
last division went the artiUery, already well sup
pUed with horses ; and, at the signal given, the
Avhole moved forward.
It was a clear frosty morning, the mists had dis
persed, and the sun shone brightly upon our arms
when we began our march. The enemy's corps of
obsei'vation feU back as we advanced, without offer
ing in any way to impede our progress, and it was
impossible to guess, ignorant as we were of the
position of his main body, at what moment op
position might be expected. ' Nor, in truth, was it
matter of much anxiety. Our spirits, in spite of
the troubles of the night, were good, and our ex-
X 2

308 MARCH.
pectations of success were high; consequently-
many rude jests were bandied about, and many
careless words spoken. For soldiers are, of all
classes of men, the freest from care, and on that
account, perhaps, the most happy. By being con
tinually exposed to it, danger with them ceases to
be frightful; of death, they have no more terror
than the beasts that perish ; and even hardships,
such as cold, wet, hunger, and broken rest, lose at
least part of their disagreeableness, by the frequency
of their recurrence.
Moving on in this merry mood, we advanced
about four or five mUes without the smallest check
or hindrance ; when, at length, we found ourselves
in view of the enemy's army, posted in a very ad
vantageous manner. About forty yards in their
front was a canal, which extended from the mo
rass to within a short distance of the high road.
Along their line were thrown up breast-works,
not indeed completed, but even now formidable.
Upon the road, and at several other points were
erected powerful batteries ; while the ship, with a
large flotUla of gun-boats, flanked the whole posi
tion from the river.
When I say that we came in sight of the enemy,
J do not mean that he was gradually exposed to
us in such a manner, as to leave time for tooI exa
mination and reflection. On the right, indeed, he
was seen for some time, but on the left, a few

ATTACK. 309
houses buUt at a turning in the road, entirely con
cealed him ; nor was it till they had gained that
turning, and beheld the muzzles of his guns pointed
towards them, that those who moved in this direc
tion were aware of their proximity to danger. But
that danger was indeed near, they were quickly
taught ; for scarcely had the head of the column
passed the houses, when a deadly fire was opened
from both the battery and the shipping. That the
Americans are exceUent shots, as well with artillery
as with rifles, we have had frequent cause to ac
knowledge ; but, perhaps, on no occasion did they
assert their claim to the title of good artillery-men
more effectually than on the present. Scarce a
bullet passed over, or fell short of its mark, but all
striking full into the midst of our ranks, occasioned
terrible havoc. The shrieks of the wounded, there
fore, the crash of firelocks, and the fall of such as
were killed, caused at first some Uttle confusion ;
and what added to the panic, was, that from the
houses beside which we stood, bright flames sud
denly burst out. The Americans expecting this
attack, had filled them with combustibles for the
purpose ; and directing one or two guns against
them, loaded with red-hot shot, in an instant set
them on fire. The scene was altogether very
subUrae. A trenaendous cannonade mowed down
our ranks, and deafened us with its roar; while
x3

310 ATTACK.
two large chateaux and their out-buUdihgs, almost
scorched us with the flames, and blinded us with the
smoke which they emitted.
The infantry, however, was not long suffered to
remain thus exposed ; but, being ordered to quit
the path, and to form line in the fields, the artiUery
Avas brought up, and opposed to that of the enemy.
But the contest was in every respect unequal, since
their artiUery far exceeded ours, both in numerical
strength and weight of metal. The consequence
Avas, that in half an hour, two of our field-pieces,
and one field-mortar, were dismounted ; many of
the gunners were killed; and the rest, after an in
effectual attempt to sUence the fire of the shipping,
were obliged to retire.
In the mean time, the infantry having formed
line, advanced under a heavy discharge of round
and grape shot, till they were checked by the ap
pearance of the canal. Of its depth, they were of
Course ignorant, arid to attempt its passage without
having ascertained whether it could be forded,
might have been productive of fatal consequences.
A halt was therefore ordered, and the men were
commanded to shelter themselves as well as they
could from the enemy's fire. For this purpose,
they were hurried into a wet ditch, of sufficient
depth to cover the knees, where, leaning forward,
they concealed themselves behind some high

RETREAT. 311
rushes which grew upon its brink, and thus
escaped many bullets which fell round them in
all directions.
Thus fared it with the left of the army, while
the right, though less exposed to the cannonade,
was not more successful in its object. The same
impediment which checked one column, forced
the other likewise to pause ; and after having
driven in an advanced body of the enemy, and
endeavoured, without effect, to penetrate through
the marsh, it also was commanded to halt. In a
word, all thought of attacking A^'as for this day
abandoned ; and it now only remained to withdraw
the troops from their present perilous situation, with
as little loss as possible.
The first thing to be done was to remove the
dismounted guns. Upon this enterprize, a party
of seamen was employed, who, running forward to
the spot where they lay, lifted them, in spite of
the whole of the enemy's fire, and bore them off
in triumph. As soon as this was effected,*regiment
after regiment stole away ; not in a body, but one
by one, under the same discharge which saluted
their approach. But a retreat, thus conducted,
necessarily occupied much time. Noon had there
fore long past, before the last corps was brought
off; and when we again began to muster, twiUght
was approaching. We did not, however, retire to
our former position ; but, having faUen back only
x4

312 PAUSE.
about two mUes from the canal, where it was sup
posed that we should be beyond reach of annoyance
from the American artiUery, we there estabUshed
ourselves for the night, having suffered less during
the day than, from our exposed situation, and the
enemy's heavy fire, might have been expected.
The ground which we now occupied resembled,
in almost every particular, what we had quitted.
We again extended across the plain, from the
marsh to the river ; no wood, or cover of any
description concealing our line, or obstructing the
view of either army '; while, both in front and rear,
was an open space, laid out in fields, and intersected
by narrow ditches. Our outposts, however, were
pushed forward to some houses within a few hunrr
dred yards of the enemy's works, sending out ad
vanced sentinels even farther ; and the head-quarters
of the army were established near the spot where the
action of the 23d had been fought.
In this situation we remained inactive during
the 28th, 29th, and 30th ; but not so the enemy.
Day and night we could observe numerous parties
employed in strengthening his lines ; while from
the increased number of tents, which almost every
hour might be discerned, it was evident that strong
reinforcements were continually pouring into his
camp. Nor did he leave us totally unmolested.
By giving to his guns a great degree of elevation,
he contrived at last to reach our bivouac ; and thus

PREPARATIONS. 313
were we constantly under a cannonade which,
though it did little execution, proved nevertheless
extremely annoying. Besides this, he now began
to erect batteries on the opposite bank of the river ;
from which a flanking fire could be thrown across
the entire front of his position. In short, he
adopted every precaution which prudence could
suggest, and for the reception of which, the nature
of his post was so admirably adapted.
Under these circumstances, it was CAddent that
the longer an attack was delayed, the less likely
was it to succeed ; that something must be done
immediately every one perceived, but how to pro
ceed, was the difficulty. If we attempted to storm
the American lines, we should expose ourselves to
almost certain destruction from their artillery ; to
turn them, seemed to be impossible ; and to draw
their troops by any manoeuvring from behind their
entrenchments, was a thing altogether out of the
question. There seemed, therefore, to be but one
practicable mode of assault ; which was, to treat
these field-works as one would treat a regular for
tification ; by erecting breaching batteries against
them, and silencing, if it were possible, at least
some of their guns. To this plan, therefore,
did our leader resort ; and, in consequence, the
whole of these three days were employed in land
ing heavy cannon, bringing up ammunition, and
making such preparations as might have sufficed
for a siege. "

314 PREPARATIONS.
At length, having completed his arrangements,
and provided such means as were considered suffi
cient to ensure success. General Pakenham deter
mined to commence operations without delay. —
One half of the army was accordingly ordered out
on the night of the 31st, and marched to the front,
passing the piquets, and halting about three hun
dred yards from the enemy's line. Here it was
resolved to throw up a chain of works ; and here
the greater part of this detachment laying down
their firelocks, applied themselves vigorously to their
tasks, while the rest stood armed and prepared for
their defence.
The night was dark, and our people maintained
a profound silence ; by which means, not an idea
of what was going on existed in the American
camp. Labouring, therefore, with all diligence,
six batteries were completed long before dawn, in
which were mounted thirty pieces of heavy cannon ;
when, falling back a little way, this force united
itself to the remainder of the infantry, and lay
down behind some rushes, in readiness to act, as
soon as it should be wanted. "
In the erection of these batteries, a circumstance
occurred worthy of notice, on account of its sin
gularity. I have already stated, that the whole of
this district was covered with the stubble of sugar
cane; and I might have added, that every store
house and barn, attached to the different mansions
scattered over it, was filled with barrels of sugar.

PREPARATIONS. 315
In throwing up these works, the sugar was used
instead of earth. RoUing the hogsheads towards
the front, they were placed upright in the parapets
of the batteries ; and it was computed, that sugar
to the value of many thousand pounds sterUng,
was thus disposed of.

316 ATTACK.

LETTER XXII.

The infantry having retired, and the gunners
taken their station, dawn was anxiously expected.
But the morning of the 1st of January chanced to
be peculiarly gloomy. A thick haze obscured for
a long time the rays of the sun, nor could objects
be discerned with any accuracy till a late hour.
But, at length, the mist gave way, and the Ame
rican camp was fuUy exposed to view. Being at
this time only three hundred yards distant, we
could perceive all that was going forward with
great exactness. The different regiments were
upon parade ; and being dressed in holiday suits,
presented really a fine appearance. Mounted offi
cers were riding backwards and forwards through
the ranks, bands were playing, and colours floating
in the air ; in a word, all seemed jollity and gala ;
when suddenly our batteries opened, and the face
of affairs was instantly changed. The ranks were
broken ; the different corps dispersing, fled in all
directions, while the utmost terror and disorder
appeared to prevaU. Instead of nicely dressed
lines, nothing but confused crowds could now be

RETREAT. 317
observed ; nor was it without much difficulty that
order was finally restored.
While this consternation prevailed among the in
fantry, their artillery remained silent ; but as soon
as the former ralUed, they also recovered confidence,
and answered our salute with great rapidity and
precision. A heavy cannonade therefore commenced
on both sides, and continued during the whole of
the day ; tUl, towards evening, our ammunition
began to faU, and our fire in consequence to
slacken. The fire of the Americans, on the other
hand, was redoubled : landing a number of guns
from the flotiUa, they increased their artUlery to a
prodigious amount ; and directing, at the same
time, the whole force of their cannon on the oppo
site bank, against the flank of our batteries, they
soon convinced us, that all endeavours to surpass
them in this mode of fighting, would be useless.
Once more, therefore, were we obliged to retire,
leaving our heavy guns to their fate ; but as no
attempt was made by the Americans to secure
them, working parties Avere again sent out after
dark, and such as had not been destroyed, were
removed. Of the fatigue undergone during these opera
tions by the whole army, fi'om the General down
to the meanest sentinel, it would be difficult to
form an adequate conception. For two whole
nights and days, not a man had closed an eye.

318 PAUSE.
except such as were cool enough to sleep amidst
showers of cannon-baU ; and during the day,
scarcely a moment had been allowed, in which we
were able so much as to break our fast. We re
tired, therefore, not only baffled and disappointed,
but in some degree disheartened and discontented.
AU our plans had as yet proved abortive ; even
this, upon which so much reUance had been
placed, was found to be of no avail ; and it must
be confessed, that something like murmuring began
to be heard through the camp. And, in truth, if
ever an army might be permitted to murmur, it
was this. In landing, they had borne great hard
ships, not only without repining, but with cheer
fulness ; their hopes had been excited by false
reports, as to the practicability of the attempt in
which they were embarked ; and now they found
themselves entangled amidst difficulties from
which there appeared to be no escape, except by
victory. In their attempts upon the enemy's Une^
however, they had been twice foiled ; in artiUery,
they perceived themselves so greatly overmatched,
that their own could hardly assist them ; their pro
visions being derived wholly from the fleet, were
both scanty and coarse ; and their rest was con
tinually broken. For not only did the cannon and
mortars from the main of the enemy's position
play unremittingly upon them both day and night ;
but they were Ukewise exposed to a deadly fire

PAUSE. 319
from the opposite bank of the river, where no less
than eighteen pieces of artillery were now mounted,
and swept the entfre line of our encampment.
Besides all this, to undertake the duty of a piquet,
was as dangerous as to go into action. Parties of
American sharp-shooters harassed and disturbed
those appointed to that service, from the time they
took possession of their post, till they were re
lieved ; while to light fires at night, was impossi
ble, because they served but as certain marks for
the enemy's gunners. I repeat, therefore, that a
little murmuring could not be wondered at. Be it
observed, however, that these were not the mur
murs of men anxious to escape from a disagreeable
situation by any means. On the contrary, they
resembled rather the growling of a chained dog
when he sees his adversary, and cannot reach him ;
for in all their complaints, no man ever hinted at
a retreat, while all were eager to bring matters to
the issue of a battle, at any sacrifice of Uves.
Nor was our gallant leader less anxious to fight
than his followers. To fight upon something Uke
equal terms, however, was his wish ; and for this
purpose, a new scheme was invented, worthy, for
its boldness, of the school in which Sir Edward had
studied his profession. It was determined to di
vide the army, to send part across the river, who
should seize the enemy's guns, and turn them on
themselves ; while the remainder should at the

320 ATTACK.
same time make a general assault along the whole
entrenchment. But before this plan could be put
into execution, it would be necessary to cut a canal
across the entire neck of land from the Bayo de
CatUine to the river, of sufficient width and depth
to admit of boats being brought up from the lake.
Upon this arduous undertaking were the troops
immediately employed. Being divided into four
companies, they laboured by turns, day and night ;
one party reUeving another after a stated number
of hours, in such order as that the work should
never be entirely deserted. The fatigue under
gone during the prosecution of this attempt, no
words can sufficiently describe ; yet it was pursued
without repining, and, at length, by unremitted
exertions, they succeeded in effecting their purpose
by the 6th of January.
While these things were going on, and men's
minds were anxiously turned towards approaching
events, fresh spirit was given to the army by the
unexpected arrival of Major General Lambert, with
the 7th and 43d ; two fine battaUons, mustering each
. eight hundred effective men. By this reinforcement,
together with the addition of a body of sailors
and marines from the fleet, our numbers amounted
now to Uttle short of eight tliousand men ; a force
which, in ahnost any other quarter of America,
would have been irresistible. Of the numbers of
the enemy, again, various reports were in circula-

ATTACK. 321
tion ; some stating them at 23, and others at 30,000 ;
but perhaps I may come nearer the truth, if I
choose a middle course, and suppose their whole
force to be about 25,000 men. It is at least cer
tain, that they exceeded us in numbers as much as
they did in resources ; and that scarcely an hour
passed which did not bring in new levies to their
army. The canal, as I have stated, being finished on
the 6th, it was resolved to lose no time in making
use of it. Boats were accordingly ordered up for
the transportation of 1400 men ; and Colonel
Thornton with the 85th Regiment, the marines, and
a party of sailors, was appointed to cross the river.
But a number of untoward accidents occurred, to
¦spoil a plan of operations as accurately laid down
as any in the course of the war. The soU through
which the canal was dug, being soft, parts of the
bank gave way, and choking up the channel, pre
vented the heaviest of the boats from getting for
ward. These again blocked up the passage, so
that none of those which were behind, could pro
ceed, and thus, instead of a flotilla for the accom
modation of 1400 men, only a number of boats
sufficient to contain 350 was enabled to reach their
destination. Even these did not arrive at the
time appointed. According to the preconcerted
plan, Colonel Thornton's detachment was to cross
the river immediately after dark. They were to
Y

322 ATTACK.
push forward, so as to carry aU the batteries, and
point the guns before dayUght ; when, on the
throwing up of a rocket, they were to commence
firing upon the enemy's line, which at the same
moment was to be attacked by the main of our
army. In this manner was one part of the force to act,
while the rest were thus appointed. Dividing his
troops into three columns. Sir Edward directed,
that General Keane, at the head of the 95th, the
Ught companies of the 21st, 4th, and 44th, together
with the two black corps, should make a de
monstration, or sham attack upon the right ; that
General Gibbs with the 4th, 21st, 44th, and 93d,
should force the enemy's left, while General Lam
bert with the 7th and 43d remained in reserve,
ready to act as circumstances might require. But
in storming an entrenched position, something
more than bare courage is required. Scaling lad
ders and fascines had, therefore, been prepared, with
which to fill up the ditch and mount the wall ; and
since to carry these- was a service of danger, re
quiring a corps weU worthy of dependence, the
44th was for that purpose selected, as a regiment
of sufficient numerical strength, and already accus
tomed to American warfare. Thus were all things
arranged on the night of the 7th, for the 8th was
fixed upon as the day decisive of the fate of New
Orleans.

ATTACK. 332
WTiile the rest of the army, therefore, lay down
to sleep tiU they should be roused up to fight. Colo
nel Thornton with the 85th, and a corps of marines-
and seamen, amounting in all to 1400 men, moved
down to the brink of the river. As yet, however,
no boats had arrived; hour after hour elapsed
before they came ; arid when they did come, the
misfortunes which I have stated above were dis
covered, for out of all that had been ordered up,
only a few made their appearance. Still it was
absolutely necessary that this part of the plan
should be carried into execution. Dismissing,
therefore, the rest of his followers, the Colonel put
himself at the head of his own regiment, about
fifty seamern, and as many' marines, and with this
small force, consisting of no more than 340 men,
pushed off. But, unfortunately, the loss of time
nothing could repair. Instead of reaching the op
posite bank, at latest by midnight, dawn was
beginning to appear before the boats quitted the
canal. It was in vain that they rowed on in per
fect silence, and with oars muffled, gaining the
point of debarkation without being perceived. It
was in vain that they made good their landing and
formed upon the beach, without opposition or
alarm ; day had already broke, and the signal
rocket was seen in the air, while they were yet
four miles from the batteries, Avhich ought hours
ago to have been taken. Y 2

324 ATTACK.
In the mean time, the main body armed and
moved forward some way in front of the piquets.
There they stood waiting for day-light, and lis
tening with the greatest anxiety for the firing
which ought now to be heard on the opposite bank.
But this attention was exerted in vain, and day
dawned upon them long before they desired its ap
pearance. Nor was Sir Edward Pakenham cUs-
appointed in this part of his plan alone. Instead
of perceiving every thing in readiness for the as
sault, he saw his troops in battle array, indeed, but
not a ladder or fascine upon the field. The 44th,
which was appointed to carry them, had either mis
understood or neglected their orders ; and now
headed the column of attack, without any means
being provided for crossing the enemy's ditch, or
scaling his rampart.
The indignation of poor Pakenham on this occa
sion may be imagined, but cannot be described.
Galloping towards Colonel Mullens, who led the
44th, he commanded him instantly to return with
his regiment for the ladders, but the opportunity
of planting them was lost, and though they were
brought up, it was only to be scattered over the
field by the frightened bearers. For our troops
were by this time visible to the enemy. A dread
ful fire was accordingly opened upon them, and
they were mowed down by hundreds, while they
stood waiting for orders.

ATTACK. 325
Seeing that all his well-laid plans were frustrated,
Pakenham gave the word to advance, and the other
regiments, leaving the 44th with the ladders and
fascines behind them, rushed on to the assault. On
the left, a detachment of the 95th, 21st, and 4th,
stormed a three gun battery and took it. Here they
remained for some time in the expectation of sup
port ; but none arriving, and a strong column of
the enemy forming for its recovery, they deter
mined to anticipate the attack, and pushed on.
The battery which they had taken was in advance
of the body of the works, being cut off from it by
a ditch, across which only a single^ plank was
thrown. Along this plank did these brave men
attempt to pass ; but being opposed by overpower
ing numbers, they were repulsed ; and the Ameri
cans, in turn, forcing their way into the battery, at
length succeeded in recapturing it with immense
slaughter. On the right, again, the 21st and 4th
being almost cut to pieces and thrown into some
confusion by the enemy's fire, the 93d pushed on
and took the lead. Hastening forward, our troops
soon reached the ditch ; but to scale the parapet
without ladders was impossible. Some few, in
deed, by mounting one upon another's shoulders,
succeeded in entering the works, but these were
instantly overpowered, most of them killed, and the
rest taken; whUe as many as stood without were
exposed to a sweeping fire, which cut them down
Y 3

326 ATTACK.
by whole companies. It was in vain that the
most obstinate courage was displayed. They fell
by the hands of men whom they absolutely did not
see; for the Americans, without so much as
lifting their faces above the rampart, swung their
firelocks by one arm over the waU, and discharged
them directly upon their heads. The whole of the
guns, likewise, from the opposite bank, kept up
a weU-directed and deadly cannonade upon their
flank ; and thus were they destroyed without an
opportunity being given of displaying their valour,
or obtaining so much as revenge.
Poor Pakenham saw how things were going,
and did all that a General could do to raUy his
broken troops. Riding towards the 44th, which
had returned to the ground, but in great disorder,
he called out for Colonel MuUens to advance ; but
that officer had disappeared, and. was not to be
found. He, therefore, prepared to lead them on
himself, and had put himself at their head for that
purpose, when he received a slight wound in
the knee from a musket-ball, which killed his
horse. Mounting another, he again headed the
44th, when a second baU took effect more fataUy,
and he dropped lifeless into the arms of his aide-
de-camp. Nor were Generals Gibbs and Keane inactive.
Riding through the ranks, they strove by aU means
to encourage the assaUants and.recaU the fugitives ;

ATTACK. 327
till at length both were wounded, and borne off
the field. All was now confusion and dismay.
Without leaders, ignorant of what was to be done,
the troops first halted and then began to retire ;
till finally the retreat was changed into a flight,
and they quitted the ground in the utmost disorder.
But the retreat was covered in gallant style by the
reserve. Making a forward motion, the 7th and
43d presented the appearance of a renewed attack ;
by which the enemy were so much aAved, that they
did not venture beyond their lines in pursuit of- the
fugitives. While affairs were thus disastrously conducted
in this quarter, the party under Colonel Thornton
had gained the landing place. On stepping
a-shore, the first thing they beheld was a rocket
thrown up as a signal that the battle was begun;
This unwelcome sight added wings to their speed.
Forming in one little column, and pushing for
ward a single company as an advanced guard,
they hastened on, and in half an hour reached a
canal, along the opposite brink of which a detach
ment of Americans was drawn up. To dislodge
them was the work of a moment : a boat with a car
ronade in her bow, got upon their flank, gave them
a single discharge of grape, while the advanced
guard extended its ranks, and approached at
double quick time. But they scarcely Avaited tiU
the latter were within range, when, firing a
y4

328 ATTACK.
volley, they fled in confusion. This, however,
was only an outpost. The main body was some
Avay in rear, and amounted to no fewer than 1500
men. It was not long, however, before they likewise
presented themselves. Like their countrymen on
the other side, they Avere strongly entrenched, a
thick parapet with a ditch covering their front ;
while a battery upon their left swept the whole
position, and two field-pieces commanded the road.
Of artillery, the assailants possessed not a single
piece, nor any means, beyond what nature gave, of
scaling the rampart. Yet nothing daunted by the
obstacles before them, or by the immense odds to
which they were opposed, dispositions for an imme
diate attack were made. The 85th extending its
files, stretched across the entire line of the enemy,
the sailors in column prepared to storm the battery,
whUe the marines remained some Uttle way in rear
of the centre as a reserve.
These arrangements being completed, the bugle
sounded, and our troops advanced. The saUors
raising a shout, rushed forward, but were met by
so heavy a discharge of grape and cannister, that
for an instant they paused. Recovering them
selves, however, they again pushed on ; and the
85th dashing forward to their aid, they received
a heavy fire of musketry, and endeavoured to
charge. A smart firing was now for a few mi-

HALT. 329
nutes kept up on both sides, but our people had no
time to waste in distant fighting, and accordingly
hurried on to storm the works ; upon which, a
panic seized the Americans, they lost their order,
and fled, leaving us in possession of their tents, and
of eighteen pieces of cannon.
In this affair our loss amounted to only three
men kUled, and about forty wounded, among the
latter of whom was Colonel Thornton. Nor could
the loss on the part of the enemy greatly exceed
our own. Had they stood firm, indeed, it is hardly
conceivable that so small a force could have taken
an entrenched position from numbers so superior ;
at least it could not have been done without
much bloodshed. But the fact is, that they were
completely surprised. An attack on this side Avas
a circumstance of which they had not dreamed;
and when men are assaulted in a point which
they deem beyond the reach of danger^ it is
weU known that they defend themselves with
less vigour, than where such an event was anti
cipated. When in the act of storming these lines, the
word was passed through our ranks, that all had
gone weU on the opposite bank. This naturaUy
added to the vigour of the assault ; but we , had
not followed our flying enemy above two miles,
when we were commanded to halt. The real

330 RE-EMBARKATION.
State of the case had now reached us, and the same
messenger who brought the melancholy news, brought
likewise an order to return.
The place where we halted was in rear of a
canal, across which was thrown a wooden bridge,
furnishing, apparently, the only means of passing.
At the opposite end of this bridge stood a collec
tion of wooden cottages, and one chateau of some
size. Here a company was stationed to serve the
double purpose of a piquet, and a rear-guard ; while
the rest of the troops, having rested for half an hour,
began their march towards the point AA'here they had
landed. As soon as the main body had got sufficiently on
their way, the piquet likewise prepared to follow.
But in doing so, it was evident that some risk
must be run. The enemy having ralUed, began
once more to show a front ; that is to say, par
ties of sixty or a hundred men now approached
to reconnoitre. These, however, must be de
ceived, otherwise a pursuit might be commenced,
and the re-embarkation of the whole corps hin
dered or prevented. The officer commanding the
piquet, accordingly formed his men, and made a
show of advancing. Upon which the Americans
fled ; when wheeUng about, he set fire to the
chateau ; and, under cover of the smoke, destroyed
the bridge and retreated. Making aU haste to-

RE-EMBARKATION. 331
wards the rear, he overtook his comrades just
as they had begun to embark ; when the little
corps being once more united, entered their boats,.
and reached the opposite bank without moles-.
tation.

332 FIELD OF BATTLE.

LETTER XXIII.
As soon as the whole army was re-united, and the
broken regiments had recovered their order, a flag
of truce was dispatched with proposals for the burial
of the dead. To accomplish this end, a truce of
two days was agreed upon, and parties were imme
diately sent out to coUect and bury their fallen
comrades. Prompted by curiosity, I mounted my
horse and rode to the front ; but of all the sights
I ever Avitnessed, that which met me there was
beyond comparison the most shocking, and the
most humUiating. Within the small compass of a
few hundred yards, were gathered together nearly
a thousand bodies, all of them arrayed in British
uniforms. Not a single American was among them ;
all were EngUsh ; and they were thrown by dozens
into shallow holes, scarcely deep enough to furnish
•them with a slight covering of earth. Nor was this
all. An American officer stood by smoking a segar,
and apparently counting the slain with a look of
savage exultation ; and repeating over and over to
each individual that approached him, that their loss
amounted only to eight men kiUed, and fourteen
wounded.

THE CAMP. 333
I confess, that when I beheld the scene, I hung
down my head half in sorrow, and half in anger.
With my officious informant I had every inclina
tion to pick a quarrel ; but he was on duty, and
an armistice existed, both of which forbade the
measure. I could not, however, stand by and
repress my choler, and since to give it vent would
have subjected me to more serious inconvenience,
than a mere duel, I turned my horse's head, and.
galloped back to the camp.
But the change of expression, visible there in
every countenance, no language can pourtray. —
Only twenty hours ago, and all was life and ani
mation ; wherever you went, you were enlivened
by the sound of merriment and raillery ; Avhile the
expected attack was mentioned in terms indica
tive not only of sanguine hope, but of the most
perfect confidence as to its result. Now gloom
and discontent ^very where prevailed. Disap
pointment, grief, indignation, and rage succeeded
each other in all bosoms ; nay, so completely were
the troops overwhelmed by a sense of disgrace,
that, for a-while, they retained their sorrow with
out so much as hinting at its cause. Nor was this
dejection occasioned wholly by the consciousness
of laurels tarnished. The loss of comrades was to the
fuU as afflicting as the loss of honour; for out of more
than 7000 men brought on this side into the field,
no fewer than 2000 had fallen. Among these were

334 THE CAMP.
two generals (for Gibbs survived his wound but a
few hours) and many officers of courage and abUity ;
besides which hardly an individual survived, who
had not to mourn the loss of some particular and
well-known companion.
Yet it is most certain that amid aU this variety
of conflicting passions, no feeling bordering upon
despair, or even terror, found room. Even among
the private soldiers no fear was experienced, for if
you attempted to converse with them on the
subject of the late defeat, they would end with a
bitter curse upon those to whose misconduct they
attributed their losses, and refer you to the future,
when they hoped for an opportunity of revenge.
To tlie Americans they would allow no credit,
laying the entire blame of the failure upon certain
individuals among themselves ; and so great was
the indignation expressed against one corps, that
the soldiers of other regiments would hardly ex
change words with those who chanced to wear that
uniform. Though deeply afflicted, therefore, we
were by no means disheartened, and even yet anti
cipated with an eagerness far exceeding Avhat was
felt before, a renewal of the combat.
But General Lambert, on whom the chief com
mand had devolved, very prudently determined
not to risk the safety of his army by another at
tempt upon works evidently so much beyond their
strength. He considered, and considered justly,

PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. 335
that his chances of success were in every respect
lessened by the late repulse. In the first place an
extraordinary degree of confidence was given to the
enemy ; in the next place the only feasible plan of
attack having been already tried, they would be more
on their guard to prevent its being again put in
execution, and lastly his own force was greatly di
minished in numbers, while theirs continued every
day to increase. Besides, it would be casting all
upon the hazard of a die. If again defeated,
nothing could save our army from destruction,
because, unless it retreated in force, no retreat
could be effected. A retreat, therefore, while yet
the measure appeared practicable, was resolved
upon, and towards that end were aU our future ope
rations directed.
To the accomplishment of this desirable object,
however, one great obstacle existed; — by what
road were the troops to travel, and in what order
were they to regain the fleet. On landing, we had
taken advantage of the creek or bayo, and thus
come up by water within two inUes of the culti
vated country. But to adopt a similar course in
our retreat was impossible. In spite of our losses
there were not throughout the armament a suffici
ent number of boats to transport above one half of
the army at a time. If, however, we should sepa
rate, the chances were that both parties would be
destroyed; for those embarked might be inter-

836 PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT.
cepted, and those left behind would be obliged to
cope with the entire American force. Besides, even
granting that the Americans might be repulsed,
it would be impossible to take to our boats in their
presence ; and thus at least one division, if not both,
must be sacrificed.
To obviate this difficulty, prudence required that
the road which we had formed on landing should
be continued to the very margin of the lake;
while appearances seemed to indicate the total
impracticability of the scheme. From firm ground
to the water's edge was here a distance of many
miles, through the very centre of a morass where
human foot had never before trodden. Yet it was
desirable at least to make the attempt ; for if it
failed, Ave should only be reduced to our former
alternative of gaining a battle, or surrendering at
discretion. Having determined to adopt this course. General
Lambert immediately dispatched strong working
parties, under the guidance of engineer officers, to
lengthen the road, keeping as near as possible to
the margin of the creek. But the task assigned
them was burthened with innumerable difficulties.
For the extent of several leagues no firm footing
could be discovered, on which to rest the founda
tion of a path ; nor any trees to assist in forming
hurdles. All that could be done, therefore, was to
bind together large quantities of reeds, and lay

PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT. 337
them across the quagmire ; by which means, at
least the semblance of a road was produced, how
ever wanting in firmness and solidity. But where
broad ditches came in the way, many of which
intersected the morass, the workmen were neces-
sarfly obliged to apply more durable materials.
For these, bridges composed in part of large
branches brought with immense labour from the
woods, were constructed ; but they were, on the
whole, little superior in point of strength to the rest
of the path, for though the edges were supported by
timber, the middle was filled up only with reeds.
To complete this road, bad as it was, occupied
the space of nine days, during which time our
army remained in position without making any
attempts to molest the enemy. The Americans,
however, Avere not so inactive. In the course of
two days, six guns were again mounted upon the
bank of the river, from which a continual fire was
kept up upon our camp. The same mode of pro
ceeding was adopted in front, and thus, night and
day were we harassed by danger against which
there was no fortifying ourselves. Of the extreme
unpleasantness of our situation, it is hardly possible
to convey any adequate conception. We never
closed our eyes in peace, for we were sure to be
awakened before many minutes elapsed, by the splash
of a round-shot or sheU in the mud beside us. Tents
we had none, but lay some in the open air, and
z

338 PREPARATIONS FOR RETREAT.
some in huts made of boards, or any materials that
could be procured. From the first moment of our
landing, not a man had undressed excepting to
bathe ; and many had worn the same shirt for
weeks together. Besides all this, heavy rains
now set in, accompanied with violent storms of
thunder and lightning, which lasting during the
entire day, usuaUy ceased towards dark, and gave
place to keen frosts. Thus were we alternately
wet and frozen ; wet all day, and frozen all night.
With the outposts, again, there was constant skir
mishing. With what view the Americans wished
to drive them in, I cannot tell ; but every day were
they attacked, and compelled to maintain their
ground by dint of hard fighting. In one word,
none but those who happened to belong to this
army can form a notion of the hardships which it
endured, and the fatigue which it underwent.
Nor were these the only gvUs which tended to
lessen our numbers. To our soldiers every in
ducement was held out by the enemy to desert.
Printed papers, offering lands and money as the
price of desertion, were thrown in to the piquets,
while individuals made a practice of approaching
our posts, and endeavouring to persuade the very
sentinels to quit their stations. Nor could it be
expected that bribes so tempting would always be
refused. Many desertions began daily to take
place, and became before long so frequent, that the
evU rose to be of a serious nature.

PREPARATION'S FOR RETREAT. 339
There occurred, however, one instance of mag
nanimous fideUty, on the part of a British soldier,
which I cannot resist the inclination of repeating.
A private of the 95th, whose name I should
have joyfully mentioned had I not forgotten it,
chanced one day to stand sentinel, when he was
addressed by an American officer. The American
offered him a hundred doUars and a quantity of
land if he would come over; representing, at
the same time, the superiority of a democratical
government, and railing, as these persons gene
rally do, against the title of king. Though the
Englishman heard what was said distinctly enough,
he nevertheless pretended to be deaf, and begged
his tempter to come a little nearer, that, in his
own words, " he might tell him all about it."
Jonathan exulting at the prospect of drawing this
fine fellow from his duty, approached within twenty
paces of where he stood, when just as he had
opened his mouth to renew his offer, the sentinel
leveUed his piece and shot him through the arm.
Nor was he contented with inflicting this punish
ment. Walking forward he seized his wounded
enemy, and reproaching him with dishonourable
dealings, brought him in a prisoner to the camp.
But, unhappily, conduct such as this was rare ;
in the course of a week, many men quitted their
colours, and fled to the enemy.
In the mean time, the whole of the wounded,
z2

340 RETREAT.
except such as were too severely hurt to be re
moved, were embarked upon the canal, and sent
off to the fleet. Next foUowed the baggage and
stores, with the civil officers, commissaries, purvey
ors, Sec. and last of aU such of the Ught artUlery
as could be withdrawn without trouble, or the risk
of discovery. But of the heavy artillery, of which
about ten pieces were mounted in front of the
bivouac, and upon the bank of the river, no ac
count was taken. They were ship's guns, of little
value, and extremely cumbersome; consequently,
their removal, had it been practicable, would scarcely
have rewarded the trouble. It was therefore de
termined to leave them behind; and they were
accordingly permitted to retain their stations to
the last.
These preparations being continued for some
days, on the 17th no part of our force remained in
camp except the infantry. Having therefore de
layed only tUl the abandoned guns were rendered
unserviceable, on the evening of the 18th it also
began its retreat. Trunming the fires, and arrang
ing aU things in the same order as if no change
were to take place, regiment after regiment stole
away, as soon as darkness concealed their motions ;
leaving the piquets to foUow as a rear-guard, but
with strict injunctions not to retire tUl daylight
began to appear. As may be supposed, the most
profound silence was maintained ; not a man open-

MARCH. 341
ing his mouth, except to issue necessary orders,,
and even then speaking in a whisper. Not a
cough or any other noise was to be heard from the
head to the rear of the column ; and even the steps
of the soldiers were planted with care to prevent
the slightest stamping or echo. Nor was this ex
treme caution in any respect unnecessary. In
spite of every endeavour to the contrary, a rumour
of our intended movement had reached the Ame
ricans ; for we found them of late watchful and
prying, whereas they had been formerly content to.
look only to themselves.
For some time, that is to say, while our route lay
along the high road and beside the brink of the
river, the march was agreeable enough ; but as
soon as we began to enter upon the path through
the marsh, all comfort was at an end. Being con
structed of materials so slight, and resting upon a
foundation so infirm, the treading of the first
corps unavoidably beat it to pieces ; those' which
followed were therefore compelled to flounder on
in the best way they could ; and by the time the
rear of the column gained the morass, aU trace of
a way had entirely disappeared^ But not only
were the reieds torn asunder and sunk by the pres
sure of those, who had gone before, but the bog
itself, which at fu-st might have furnished a few
spots of firm footing, was trodden into the consist
ency of mud. The consequence was that every
z3

342 MARCH.
step sank us to the knees, and frequently higher.
Near the ditches, indeed, many spots occurred
which we had the utmost difficulty in crossing at
aU ; and as the night was dark, there being no
moon, nor any light- except what the stars supplied,
it was difficult "^to select our steps, or even to
foUow those who called to us that they were safe
on the opposite side. At one of these places I
myself beheld an unfortunate wretch graduaUy
sink till he totally disappeared. I saw him floun
der in, heard his cry for help, and ran forward with .
the intention of saving him ; but before I had
taken a second step I myself sank at once as high
as the breast. How I contrived to keep myself
from smothering is more than I can tell, for I felt
no soUd bottom under me, and continued slowly
to go deeper and deeper, tiU the mud reached my
arms. Instead of endeavouring to help the poor
soldier, of whom nothing could now be seen except
the head and hands, I was forced to beg assistance
for myself ; when a leathern canteen strap being
thrown to me, I laid hold of it, and was dragged
out, just as my fellow sufferer became invisible.
Over roads such as these did we continue our
journey during the whole of the night ; and in
the morning reached a place caUed Fisherman's
Huts, upon the margin of the lake. The name is
derived from a clump of mud-built 'cottages, situ
ated in as complete a desert as the eye of man was

HALT. 343
ever pained by beholding. They stand close to
the water, upon a part of the morass rather more
firm than the rest. Not a tree or bush of any
description grBws near them. As far as the eye
could reach, a perfect ocean of rieeds everywhere pre
sented itself, except on that side where a view of
the lake changed without fertilizing the prospect.
Were any set of human beings condemned to
spend their lives here, I should consider their fate
as little superior to that of the solitary captive ;
but during many months of the year, these huts are
wholly unoccupied, being erected, as their name
denotes, merely to shelter a few fishermen, while
the fishing season lasts.
Here at length we were ordered to halt ; and
perhaps I never rejoiced more sincerely at any
order than at this. Wearied with my exertions,
and oppressed with want of sleep, I threw myself
on the ground without so much as puUing off my
muddy garments ; and in an instant all my cares
and troubles were forgotten. Nor did I wake
from that deep slumber for many hours, when I
rose cold and stiff, and creeping beside a miserable
fire of reeds addressed myself to the last morsel of
salt pork which my wallet contained.
The whole army had now come up, the piquets
having escaped without notice, or at least without
annoyance : forming along the brink of the lake, a
Une of outposts was planted, and the soldiers were
z 4

344 HALT.
commanded to make themselves as comfortable as
they could. But in truth the word comfort is
one which cannot in any sense be applied to peo
ple in such a situation. Without tents or huts of
any description (for the few from which the place
is named were occupied by the General and other
heads of departments) our bed was the morass, and
our sole covering the clothes which had not
quitted our backs for upwards of a month. Our
fires, upon the size and goodness of which much
of a soldier's happiness depends, were composed
solely of reeds ; a species of fuel which like straw
soon blazes up, and soon expires again, almost
without communicating any degree of warmth.
But above all, our provisions were expended, and
from what quarter to obtain an immediate supply
defied the most inventive genius to discover. Our
sole dependence was upon the boats. Of these
a flotilla lay ready to receive us, in which were em
barked the black corps, with the 44th, but they
had brought with them only food for their own
use. It was therefore necessary that they should
reach the fleet and return again, before they could
furnish us with what we so much wanted. But
the distance to the nearest of the shipping could
not be less than eighty miles, and if the weather
should become boisterous, or the winds obstinately
adverse, we might starve before any supply could
arrive.

HALT. 345
These numerous grievances, however, were
without remedy, and we therefore bore them with
patience ; though for two whole days the only
provisions issued to the troops were some crumbs
of. biscuit and a small allowance of rum. For my
own part I did not fare so badly as many others.
Having been always fond of shooting, I took a
fire-lock and went in pursuit of Avild ducks, which
abounded throughout the bog. Wandering along
in this quest I reached a lake, by the margin of
which I concealed myself, and waited for my prey ;
nor was it long before I had an opportunity of
firing. Several large flocks flew over me, and I
was fortunate enough to kill three birds. But
alas ! those birds, upon which I had already feasted
in imagination, dropped into the water ; my dog,
more tired than her master, would not fetch them
out, and they lay about twenty yards off, tantaliz
ing me with the sight of a treasure which I could
not reach. Moving off to another point, I again
took my station where I hoped for better fortune ;
but the same evil chance once more occurred, and
the ducks feU into- the lake. This was too much
for a hungry man to endure ; the day was pier
cingly cold, and the edge of the pool was covered
with ice ; but my appetite was urgent, and I
resolved at aU hazards to indulge it. Pulling off
my clothes, therefore, I broke the ice and plunged
in ; and though shivering like an aspin leaf, I re-

346 HALT.
turned safely to the camp with a couple of birds.
Next day, I adopted a similar course, with like suc
cess ; but at the expence of what was to me a
serious misery. My stockings of warm wool were
the only part of my dress which I did not strip
off, and to-day it unfortunately happened that one
was lost. Having secured my ducks, I attempted
to land where the bottom was muddy ; but my leg
stuck fast, and in pulUng it out,* off came the
stocking ; to recover it was beyond my power, for
the mud closed over it directly, and the conse
quence was, that tiU I regained the transport only
one of my feet could be warm at a time. To
those who can boast of many pairs of fine icotton
and woollen hose, this misfortune of mine may
appear light, but to me, who had only two stock
ings on shore, the loss of one was very grievous ;
and I therefore request that I may not be sneered
at, when I record it as one of the disastrous conse
quences of this ill-fated expedition.

THE LAKE. 347

LETTER XXIV.
As soon as the boats returned, regiment after re
giment embarked, and set sail for the fleet ; but
the distance hebag considerable, and the wind foul,
many days elapsed before the whole could be got
off. Excepting in one trifling instance, however,
no accident occurred, and by the end of the month,
we were all once more on board our former ships.
But our return was far from triumphant. We,
who only seven weeks ago had set out in the
surest confidence of glory, and, I may add, of emo
lument, were brought back dispirited and dejected.
Our ranks were wofuUy thinned, our chiefs slain,
our cldthing tattered and filthy, and even our dis
cipUne in some degree injured. A gloomy sUence
reigned throughout the armament, except when it
was broken by the voice of lamentation over fallen
friends ; and the interior of each ship presented a
scene weU calculated to prove the short sighted-
ness of human hope, and human prudence.
The accident to which I aUude, was the capture
of a single boat by the enemy. About thirty men
of the 14th dragoons having crowded into an un
armed barge, were proceeding slowly down the

348 THE LAKE.
lake, when a boat mounting a carronade in its
bow, suddenly darted from a creek, and made to
wards them. To escape, was impossible ; for their
barge was too heavily laden to move at a rate of
even moderate rapidity ; and to fight, was equaUy
out of the question, because of the superiority
which their cannon gave to the Americans. The
whole party was accordingly compelled to sur
render to six men and an officer ; and having
thrown their arms into the lake, their boat was
taken in tow, and they were carried away pri
soners. This, however, was the only misfortune which
occurred. Warned by the fate of their comrades,
the rest kept together in little squadrons, each at
tended by one or more armed launches ; and thus
rowing steadily on, they gained the shipping,
without so much as another attempt at surprisal
being made.
On reaching the fleet, we found that a considerable
reinforcement of troops had arrived from England.
It consisted of the 40th Foot, a fine regiment, con
taining nearly a thousand men, which, ignorant of
the fatal issue of our attack, had crossed the lakes,
only to be sent back to the ships, without so much
as stepping on shore. The circumstance, how
ever, produced little satisfaction. We felt that the
coming of thrice the number could not recover
what was lost, or recall past events ; and therefore

THE LAKE. 349
no rejoicing was heard, or the slightest regard paid
to the occurrence. Nay, so great was the despond
ency which had taken possession of men's minds,
that not even a rumour respecting the next point
of attack, obtained circulation ; while a sullen
carelessness, a sort of indifference as to what might
happen, seemed to have succeeded all our wonted
curiosity, and confidence of success, in every un
dertaking. In this state we remained wind-bound tiU the
4th of February, when, at length, getting, under
weigh, the fleet ran down as far as Cat Island.
This is a spot of sandy soil at the mouth of the
lake, remarkable for nothing except a solitary
Spanish family, which possesses it. Completely
cut off from the rest of the world, an old man, his
Avife, two daughters and a son, dwell here in ap
parent happiness and contentment. Being at least
one hundred and twenty mUes from the main, it is
seldom that their little kingdom is visited by
strangers, and I beUeve that tUl our arrival, the
daughters, though groAvn up to womanhood, had
seen few faces besides those of their parents and
brother. Their cottage, composed simply of a few
boughs, thatched and in-woven with straw, is beau
tifuUy situated within a short distance of the
water. Two cows, and a few sheep grazed beside
it, while a smaU tract of ground covered with
stubble, and a Uttle garden well stocked with fruit-

350 PAUSE.
trees and vegetables, at once gave proof of their in
dustry, and showed the source from whence they
suppUed themselves with bread.
It may appear childish, but I confess that the
sight of domestic peace flourishing, as it were, in
the midst !of wars and tumults, extremely delighted
me. While we continued at anchor, therefore, I
paid frequent visits to this cottage, and forming a
sort of acquaintance with the old man, soon pos
sessed myself of his little history. He had emi
grated from Spain many years ago, and married in
America. Having been unsuccessful in business,
he had saved from the wreck of his property only
enough to hire labourers, by whose assistance his
present cottage was erected, and his little farm
cleared ; when, with his wife and three children,
then very young, he had withdrawn from society,
and settled himself here, where he had remained
ever since. Once a year, he or his son visited the
main to sell their wool, and purchase such neces
saries as their island could not produce ; but ex
cepting on these occasions, or when a fishing-boat
arrived in his bay, which rarely occurred, he had
had no intercourse with any human being, besides
his own family, for a great lapse of time. As may
be imagined, I found this tribe as simple in their
ideas as in their mode of living. Of reading and
Avriting aU except the patriarch himself were igno
rant, nor did they seem to waste a thought upon

AT SEA. 351
any subject not immediately connected with their
bodUy wants. They professed, indeed, to be
Christians, and would have been probably shocked,
had I questioned their claim to sound Catholicism,
though I much doubt whether they in the slightest
degree understood the meaning of either term.
Having remained here till the 7th, we again
took advantage of a fair wind, and stood to sea. As
soon as we had cleared the lake, we directed our
course towards the east, steering, as it was ru
moured, upon Mobile ; nor was it long before we
came in sight of the bay which bears that name.
This is formed by a projecting head-land, called
Point Bayo, in a large island called Isle Dauphin.
Upon the first is erected a small fort, possessing the
same title with the promontory, which commands
the entrance ; for though the island is at least five
miles from the main, there is no water for floating
a ship of any burthen, except within a few hundred
yards of the latter. The island is, Uke Cat Island,
uninhabited, except by one family, and unprovided
with any works of defence.
As the attack of MobUe was professedly our ob
ject, it was clear that nothing could be done pre
vious to the reduction of the fort. The ships ac
cordingly dropped anchor at the mouth of the bay,
and immediate preparations were made for the
siege. But the fort was too inconsiderable in
point of size to require the employment of aU our

352 SIEGE.
forces in its' investment. While one brigade, there
fore, was allotted to this service, the rest proceeded
to estabUsh themselves on the island, where, carrying
tents and other conveniences on shore, the first regu
lar encampment which we had seen since our arrival
in this hemisphere was formed.
The spot of ground, of which we had now taken
possession, extended twelve mUes in length, and
from one to three in width. Its soil is in general
dry and sandy, weU covered with grass, and orna
mented by continued groves of pine, cedar, oak and
laurel. On one side only is there a swamp, but
not of sufficient size to contaminate the atmosphere
of the whole, which is considered so peculiarly
healthy, that the place is generally used as a depot
for the sick in the American army. At present, as
I have said, it was tenanted by no more than a
single family, the master of which was a midship
man in the American navy, and banished hither for
some misdemeanour ; but what was to us of much
greater importance, it was likewise stocked with
cattle resembling in appearance the black cattle of
the highlands of Scotland, and not behind them in
point of wildness.
While the remainder of the army spent their
time here, the 4th, 21st and 44th, being landed^
above the fort, were busied in the- siege. This
small work stands, as I have stated, at the extre
mity of a promontory. Towards the sea, its forti-

PEACE. 353
fications are respectable enough, but on the land-
side it is little better than a block-house. The ram
parts being composed of sand, not more than three
feet in thickness, and faced with plank, are barely
cannon -proof ; while a sand-hill rising within pis
tol-shot of the ditch, completely commands it.
Within, again, it is as much wanting in accommoda
tion as it is in strength. There are no bomb-proof
barra.cks, nor any hole or arch under which men
might find protection from shells ; indeed, so defi
cient is it in common lodging rooms, that great
part of the garrison slept in tents. To reduce this
place, therefore, occupied but a short time. The
troops having assembled on the 8th, drove the
enemy's within their, lines on the 9th, and broke
ground the same evening. On the 10th, four
eighteen pounders with two howitzers were placed
in battery upon the top of the sand-hill ; on the
11th, the fort surrendered; and on the 12th, the
garrison, consisting of 400 men of the second Ame
rican regiment, marched out with aU the honours
of war, and laid down their arms upon the glacis.
With the reduction of this trifling Avork ended
all hostUities in this quarter of America, for the
army had scarcely re-assembled, when intelUgence
arrived from England of peace. The news reached
us on the 14th, and I shaU not deny that it was re
ceived with much satisfaction. Though war is the
soldier's harvest, yet it must be confessed, that
A A

354 PEACE.
when carried on as it had of late been conducted,
it is a harvest of which men soon become weary ;
and many of us having been absent for several
years from our native shores, experienced absolute
deUght at the prospect of returning once more to
the bosom of our famiUes. The communication
was therefore welcomed with unfeigned joy, nor
could any other topic of conversation gain atten
tion throughout the camp, except the anticipated
re-embarkation. But as the preliminaries only had been signed,
and as Mr. Maddison's approval was required before
we should be at Uberty to depart, our army still
continued stationary upon the island. Of the
President's conduct, however, no doubts were en
tertained, and all thoughts of future military ope
rations were in consequence laid aside. The sole
aim of every individual was thenceforth to make
himself as comfortable as circumstances would
permit, during his sojourn in this wilderness. To
effect this end various expedients were adopted.
Among others, a theatre was erected, in which
such officers as chose to exhibit performed for their
own amusement, and the amusement of their
friends. In shooting and fishing, Ukewise, much
of our time was spent ; and thus, by adopting the
usual expedients of idle men, we contrived to pass
some days in a state of tolerable comfort.
Occupations such as these, however, soon grew in-

PEACE. 355
sipid, and it was therefore with sincere rejoicing that
we heard Mr. Maddison's agreement to the terms
proposed on the 5th March promulgated. All Avas
now hope and exultation, an immediate departure
was anticipated, and those were pitied as unfortu
nate whose lot, it was supposed, might detain them
even a day behind their fellows. But as yet no
movement took place ; our provisions were not
sufficient to authorize the undertaking so long a
voyage as we must undertake, did we attempt to
run for the nearest British settlement ; we were
therefore forced to remain where we were, till a
frigate should return, which had been sent for
ward to solicit supplies from the governor of
Cuba. During this interval, the same occupations
Avere resorted to ; and others of a less agreeable na
ture undertaken. As summer came on, the island
sent forth multitudes of snakes from their lurking-
places, which infested the camp, making their way
in some instances into our very beds. This was
bad enough, but it was not the only nuisance to
which we were subject. The aUigators, which
during the winter months lie in a dormant state,
now began to awake, and prowUng about the mar
gin of the pool, created no little alarm and agita
tion. Apparently confounded at our invasion of
their territories, these monsters at first confined
themselves to the marshy part of the island, but
A A 2

356 PEACE.
becoming by degrees more famUiar, they soon ven
tured to approach the very precincts of the camp.
One of them at length entered a tent, in which
only a woman and a child chanced to be, and hav
ing stared round as if in amazement, walked out
again without offering to commit any violence.
But the visit was of too serious a nature to be
overlooked. Parties were now formed for their
destruction, and it was usual on their return, in
stead of asking how many birds, to demand how
many snakes and aUigators they had shot. Of the
former, indeed, great numbers were kUled, and of
the latter not a few, the largest of which measured
about nine feet from the snout to the tail.
Another employment, also, deserves to be noted,
because it is truly characteristic of the boyish joUity
of young soldiers. Wearied with a state of idleness,
the officers of the 7th, 43d, and 14th dragoons
made an attack with fir-apples upon those of the
85th, 93d, and 95th. For the space of some days
they pelted each other, from morning tiU night,
laying ambuscades, and exhibiting, on a small
scale, all the stratagems of war ; wliUe the whole
army, not even excepting the Generals themselves,
stood by and spurred them on.
But to continue a detail of such proceedings
would only swell my narrative, without amusing
you ; I shaU therefore content myself with ob
serving, that things remained in this state till

HAVANNAH. 357
the 14th of March, when the long-looked for fri
gate at length arrived; and on the 15th, the first
division of the army embarking, set sail for Eng
land. The wind, however, was foul, nor did the
ships make any AA'ay till the 17th, when a fresh
breeze springing up, we stood our course, and by
ten o'clock on the 2 1 st, could distinguish the high
land of Cuba. But the violence of the gale having
driven us considerably to leeward, we were forced to
bear up, and beat along the coast, on which account
it was not tUl the 23d that we came opposite to the
port of Havannah.
Than the approach to this city, and its first ap
pearance from the water, it is impossible to conceive
any thing more grand and imposing. A little bay,
extremely narrow at the entrance, forms the har
bour. On each side of it stand forts of prodigious
strength, particularly those on the left, Avhere the
ground is considerably elevated, while the city
itself with its ramparts and towers, its numerous
steeples, spires, and pubUc buUdings, gives an
assurance of wealth and magnificence pecuUarly
striking. When we entered, every tower was sur
mounted by a national banner half mast high, a
cfrcumstance which at least did not diminish the
effect of a first view ; and the guns from the forts
answering our salute, showed us how desperate
must be the condition of an enemy that should
venture within their range. Why the flags should
A A 3

358 HAVANNAH.
thus indicate a general mourning, we were at a loss
to guess, tiU the pilot informed us that this was holy
week. Then, indeed, we remembered that we had
returned to a Roman Catholic country, and rejoiced
at the lucky accident which had brought us thither
at such a season.
As it was late before we anchored, I was pre
vented from landing that night ; but on the mor
row I went on shore at an early hour, Avith the
intention of seeing as much as my time would
allow. But in my proposed visits to the different
points worthy of attention I was interrupted. It
was Good Friday, consequently all pubUc places
were shut, and neither guides nor carriages could
be procured. But if I was disappointed in this,
my disappointment was amply compensated by a
view of the religious ceremonies pecuUar to that
day. Walking into the largest church in the city, I
beheld, beside the altar, a figure of our Saviour as
large as life, nailed to a cross. Beside this figure
stood a number of Monks, one of whom presented
a rod, with a sponge affixed, to its mouth, Avhile a
second thrust a spear into its side, from which came
out a liquor having the colour of blood and water.
This being carefuUy caught in a golden dish, the
figure was taken down from the cross, wrapped
round with white linen clothes, and laid upon a
bier, when an imposing procession began in the

HAVANNAH. 359
following order : First marched a mUitary band,
playing slow and solemn music ; next came a
guard of soldiers, with heads bent down, and arms
reversed ; then foUowed about two hundred Monks
belonging to different orders, arrayed in their dark
robes, with hands and feet bare, and crucifixes sus
pended from their necks. A short interval now
succeeded, and another party of Monks dressed in
white, appeared, singing hymns in honour of the
Virgin. Next came a splendid couch surmounted
by a canopy, covered with white silk, and sparkling
with gold and jewels, upon which sat a waxen image
of the Mother of God, clothed in gorgeous apparel.
Following this was another party of white-robed
Monks, chaunting a requiem for a departed soul,
and then a second interval. At the distance of
perhaps twenty yards from these came two Monks
bearing two large sUver naUs, then tw^o others bear
ing a spear and a rod, and then the body of our
SaAdour, stretched at full length upon the bier.
After the bier came two Monks bearing two other
naUs, and then other two bearing a smaU cross and
a ladder. Here, again, there was another interval,
which was succeeded by a third white-robed party
Ukewise chaunting a requiem. Next to these came
about twenty canons arrayed in scarlet ; then ano
ther couch covered with crimson velvet, which sup
ported a figure of Mary Magdalen, likewise in a
sitting posture ; then a second body of canons, suc-
A A 4

360 HAVANNAH.
ceeded by about two hundred Monks in black ; after
these, another guard of soldiers, and last of all a se
cond military band.
In spite of prejudice, I could not avoid being
deeply struck by this solemn procession. The airs
performed by the bands were slow and mournful,
the voices of the singers were deep and musical, the
dresses were rich to a degree of splendour, and the
whole was gone through with much apparent devo^
tion. No doubt, when regarded with the eye of
reflection, . the whole may seem something worse
than ludicrous, but it is impossible to Witness the
scene, and to reason on its propriety at the same
time. As long as the pageant is before your eyes,
you are lost in wonder, and a species of awe ; nor
is it till after it has disappeared, that you are in
clined to ask yourself why you gave way to feel
ings of that nature. Yet, among the natives, I
thought I could observe a considerable degree of
levity. It is true, that as many as were in the
streets, or at the Avindows, dropped upon their
knees while the procession passed, but their care
less looks and suppressed smiles sufficiently proved,
that they knelt only because they were obliged to
kneel. Commencing at the door of the church where
the representation of the crucifixion had been exhi
bited, the funeral party (for it was neither more
nor less) proceeded through the principal streets

HAVANNAH. 3gl
in the town, with a slow and measured pace. As
aU except the soldiers walked two and two, it co
vered, I should conceive, little less than a mile in
extent, and after winding from lane to lane, and
from square to square, directed its steps towards a
particular convent, where the waxen image was
solemnly deposited in a vault. It is said, but with
Avhat truth I cannot pretend to determine, that
a different image is made use of every year, and
that the vault is now so full of waxen corpses, that
it wiU be necessary before long to have some of
them destroyed.
Having now got rid of the most sacred part of
their burthen, the Monks, bearing only the two
couches, returned in procession by the same route and
in the same order as they had proceeded, only the
bands struck up lively airs; and the singers chaunted
hymns of rejoicing and haUelujahs. Instead of
walking at a slow pace, likewise, they stepped out
almost in a sort of dance, and reaching the door of
the great church, they there separated, each party
hastening to its own house to celebrate mass.
Into one or two of the convent chapels I like
wise entered, and was present during the perform
ance of their A^ery striking service. I found them
ornamented in the most magnificent manner ; the
rafters of many being gilded over, and all the win
dows crowded with stained glass. Of pictures,
and what struck me as something better than mere

362 HAVANNAH.
daubs, there were also great numbers. In a word,
it seemed as if I had reached the heart and capital
of Roman Catholic splendour. Nothing that I had
beheld in the mother country could at aU compare
with what was now before me, and I returned in
the evening to my ship, not indeed a convert to the
principles of that religion, but decidedly astonished
and confounded at the solemn magnificence of its
ceremonies.

HAVANNAH. 363

LETTER XXV.
At an early hour next morning I returned to the
city, and found that the face of affairs had under
gone a complete revolution. No more melancholy
countenances, no closed shops and vacant streets
were now to be seen ; all was bustle and rejoicing,
bells ringing, carriages rattling along, flags fljdng,
and guns firing. The solemnity of Good-Friday
ends, it appeared, at ten o'clock on Saturday morn
ing ; and from that time the merriments of Easter
have their commencement.
The whole of this day I spent in stroUing over
the different walks, and points of view from whence
the town and surrounding country may be seen to
most advantage, and I certainly must pronounce it
by far the most magnificent colonial capital I have
visited. The streets are in general wide, clean, and
airy ; the houses, except in the suburbs, are
composed entirely of stone, and being occasionaUy
intiermingled with convents, churches, and other
pubUc buildings, produce a very striking and hand
some effect. Though surrounded by a rampart,
Havannah has little of the confined and straight
ened appearance by which fortified towns are

364 HAVANNAH.
generaUy disfigured. The works being of great
extent, have left within their circumference abun
dant room for the display of elegance and neatness
in its construction, an advantage which has not
been neglected ; Avhile from their situation they
command as glorious a prospect as can well be
imagined. When you ascend a bastion which overhangs the
harbour, the city with all its towers and spires lies
immediately and distinctly beneath your gaze.
Beyond it, again, you perceive a winding of the
bay, which washes three sides of the promontory
where the city stands ; numerous fields of sugar
cane and Indian corn succeed, intersected by
groves of orange and other fruit trees, which ex
tend for some miles in a sort of inclined plane, and
are at length bounded by lofty and rugged moun
tains. On your left again is the creek or entrance
to the bay, separating you from the Moro, a line of
castles remarkable for their strength and extent.
Behind sweep the waters of the Gulf of Mexico ;
and on the right is another view much resembUng
that which Ues before you, only that it is more
narrowed; the high ground bearing in this direc
tion closer upon the city. On the whole, I do not
remember to have been more forcibly struck by
any scenery, than that which I beheld from this
bastion ; so well were town and country, castles
and convents, land and water, hiU and valley
combined.

HAVANNAH. 365
Having spent some hours in wandering through
the city, I endeavoured to make my way into the
forts, and to examine the state of the works. But
in both of these attempts I was interrupted.
Without an order from the Governor, I was inform
ed, none, even of the natives, are permitted to enter
the Moro, and all applications on the part of
foreigners, are uniformly refused. There was a
degree of jealousy in this, as needless as it was illi
beral, but indeed the whole conduct of the Spanish
authorities gave proof of their reluctance to admit
their old alUes, even to the common rites of hospi
tality. From the moment we entered the harbour
the miUtia of the island were called out, many of
the guns ^which commanded our shipping were
shotted, and artiUerymen with lighted fuses, stood
constantly beside them. An order Avas likewise
issued, prohibiting more than two persons to land
at the same time from each vessel, and many other
precautions were taken, little complimentary to the
good faith of those, to whom Spain must feel that
she owes her very existence. In spite of these
drawbacks, however, I contrived to spend a week
in this city with much satisfaction. The Opera
and Theatre opening on Easter Sunday, and con
tinuing open during the remainder of our stay, fur
nished sufficient amusement for the evenings,
while in walking or riding about, in examining
the different churches and chapels, and in chatting

366 AT SEA.
with nuns through the grate, or monks within
their ceUs, my mornings passed away more quickly
than I desired.
At length, our victualUng and watering being
complete, on the 9th of AprU we bade adieu to the
shores of Cuba, and running along with the gulf
stream, took our course towards Bermuda. The
wind favoured us greatly, and on the 17th we
again reached these islands ; where we delayed tiU
the 23d, when once more setting sail, we steered
directly for England. During the remainder of
the voyage nothing of importance occurred till
the 7th of May, when reaching in towards the
shores of Brest, we were astonished by beholding
the tri-coloured flag floating from the citadel.
Of the mighty events which had taken place in
Europe, we were as yet in perfect ignorance.
Though surprised, therefore, at the first view of
that beacon of war, we naturally concluded it to be
no more than a signal, and passed on without
enquiry. As we ascended the channel, however,
we were hailed by a schooner which professed to
communicate some news concerning Buonaparte ;
but the wind being high, we could not distinctly
teU what was said ; nor was it till the 9th, when
we had anchored off Spit-head, that the re-appear
ance of that wonderful man was made known.
The effect of this intdligence it would be diffi
cult to describe. At first it was received with

REMARKS. 367
acclamations, but by and by, those who had
dreamed of home began to perceive in it the de
struction of their visions. Yet we considered that
we were soldiers, and certainly no regret was ex
perienced when we were ordered to re-embark, and
sail for the Downs.
Having thus brought my narrative to a conclu
sion, I cannot lay aside my pen without offering a
few remarks upon the events of this busy year,
and the nature of an American war in general.
In doing so, I shaU begin with the unfortunate
attack upon New Orleans, and endeavour, in as
few words as possible, to assign the true causes of
its faUure.
From the account which I have given of this
affair, it wiU appear that from its very commence
ment it was replete with error, and gave promise
of no better result than actuaUy occurred. I do
not here allude to the spot fixed upon for landing,
because that was as appropriate as could be chosen.
Neither do I aUude to the groundless rumours
brought in by deserters ; for to such all assailants
are Uable ; but the error lay in the steps subsequently
adopted ; in the unhappy advance of the first di,-
vision from a place of concealment into the open
country, without pushing forward to the extent
requfred. The fact is, that having reached the
main land in safety, one out of two plans might
have been selected by General Keane ; which, in

368 REMARKS.
aU probabiUty, would have been equally attended
with success. Either he might have remained in
the morass tiU the whole army was assembled ; or if
this was deemed dangerous, he ought to have ad
vanced upon the city, with the first division alone.
If it be objected, that a force of 1,600 men was
incompetent for an undertaking so hazardous as
the latter, I reply that there could be no more
hazard in it than in the step which was taken.
New Orleans is not a regular fortification, requir
ing a large army, and a powerful battering train
for its reduction. In obtaining possession of it
there would have been no difficulty, because I have
every reason to believe that the American troops
reaUy were, at the time of our landing, some miles
above the city ; and surely it would not have been
more hard to repulse an attack within a town, than
in the open country. But neither of these courses
was pursued. The advance was withdrawn from
concealment, and intelligence of the point threat
ened, communicated to the American general ; the
consequence of which was a weU-directed attack
upon our bivouac, and an immediate commence
ment of those works which afterwards resisted and
repelled all our efforts.
The second error evident in this business, was
the selection of the schooner instead of the ship
for destruction. Had the latter, which lay farther
up the stream, been destroyed, it is clear that the

REMARKS. 369
foriner never could have passed our battery, nor
been of farther annoyance to us ; whereas, the
schooner being burnt, the ship was only removed
out of the reach of danger, and posted where she
could be infinitely more, advantageous toher friends^
and detrimental to her enemies. This in itself was
a fatal error, and beyond aU doubt contributed, in
a very great degree, to the repulse on the 29th of
December. The third error, and one which continued to
exert its influence throughout the whole campaign
was the delay in bringing on a general action. Why
our troops fell back upon the 29th, I confess is to
me a mystery. It was not to be supposed that an
officer who had shown so much judgment as the
American General, Jackson, displayed in his first
endeavours to check an advance, would lose the ad
vantages which the nature of his position afforded.
That ;he wohld fortify the neck of land, indeed, was
exactly what must have been expected ; and, there
fore, every hour during which an attack was de
ferred, contributed so much to his strength and
to our weakness. It is true that we should have
suffered, and probably suffered severely; but un
questionably our chances of suffering were not
diminished by delay. We ought, therefore, in
stead of faUing back, to have pursued our ope
rations with vigour on that day ; because the
American Unes were not then tenable, and
B B

370 REMARKS.
would have assisted, rather than retarded our pro
gress. Having once retired, however, and wasted three
days in idleness, no other blame can be laid upon
the leader of the expedition. His attempt to si
lence the enemy's guns was unsuccessful, and may
therefore be deemed unfortunate in its issue, rather
than in its design ; but his subsequent plan no
words can sufficiently applaud. It was at once
bold and judicious ; and deserved, in every point
of view, a different result from that with which it
was attended. But for its failure poor Pakenham
is in no way answerable. Against the falUng in of
the canal, no prudence could provide ; and to the
loss of time thereby occasioned, the fatal issue of
the ' decisive battle may in some measure be as
cribed. It must, however, be confessed, that this sad
calamity was not whoUy occasioned by unavoid
able accidents. For the conduct of Colonel Mul
lens, and the 44th Regiment under his command,
no excuse can be offered. When I include that
corps in the censure bestowed upon its comman
der, it is evident that I do so only as one would
blame schoolboys for deficiency of learning, whose
master was unfit for his office. Unless a leader
understand his duty, it is not possible that a regi
ment can conduct itself with propriety; and as
the 44th was as much composed of British soldiers

REMARKS. 371
as any battaUon in America, no doubt can be enter
tained but that, had it been differently commanded,
it would have made a different figure on the pre
sent distressing occasion.
But the behaviour of the Colonel was disgrace
ful in the highest degree. When the orders
were issued for his regiment to bear the fascines
and ladders, instead of feeling a pride at the honour
conferred upon them, that officer fell into despair-
He stated, in the hearing of the private soldiers,
that his corps was devoted to destruction ; and
conducted himself, in every respect, like a con
demned criminal on the night previous to his
execution. When the troops got under arras,
instead of bringing his battaUon to the redoubt,
where he had been instructed to find the ladders,
he marched directly past it, and led them into the
field without a single ladder or fascine. When
the day dawned, and he was sent back for these
instruments, he headed his corps in its retrograde
movement, but left it to return as it could to the
front ; and when sought for to guide the attack, he
was no where to be found. That a regiment, thus
abused and deserted by its commanding officer,
should faU into confusion cannot occasion any
surprise; and therefore the subsequent disorderly
advance and hasty retreat of the 44th, were no
more than might have been expected.
It may here be asked, whether, provided all
bb2

372 REMARKS.
things had gone right on this side of the river, pro
vided the 44th had done its duty, and the ladders
and fascines had been properly brought up, the
delay in carrying the batteries on the opposite side
would not alone have occasioned a defeat. This
must of course remain as a matter of doubt ; but my
own private opinion is that it would not. Had
the fascines been at hand to cast into the ditch,
and the ladders to plant against the rampart
as soon as day-Ught appeared, I conceive that the
battle would have ended in favour of the assailants ;
but as this was not the case, as the army was
under fire before these implements were so much
as sought for, it is no wonder that victory declared
for the Americans. To plant ladders arid fascines
in open day, and under a heavy discharge of mus
ketry and artillery, requires much coolness and
determination, neither of which was evinced by
the corps to which that duty was assigned : for
being deserted by their leader, and ignorant of
the point whither they were to proceed, the sol
diers lost their ranks, and advanced or retreated as
their individual feelings urged them, covering the
field with those very machines which they ought
to have carried to the foot of the ramparts. The
consequence of this was, that other regiments like
wise fell into confusion ; and befbre order could be
restored, aU the generals were borne dead or
wounded from the field. Much the greater part,

REMARKS. 373
therefore, of the blame attachable to this failure,
must rest where fideUty of narration has obliged me
to place it.
But the primary cause of this defeat may be
traced to a source even more distant than any I have
mentioned ; I mean to the disclosure of our designs
to the enemy. How this occurred I shall not take
it upon me to declare, though several rumours, bear
ing at least the guise of probability, have been cir
culated. The attack upon New Orleans was pro
fessedly a secret expedition ; so secret, indeed, that it
was not communicated to the inferior officers and
soldiers in the armament, till immediately previous
to our quitting Jamaica. To the Americans, how
ever, it appears to have been known long before,
and hence it was, that, instead of taking them una
wares, we found them fully prepared for our recep
tion. But it is past, and cannot be recalled, and
therefore to point out errors on the part of my coun
trymen can serve no good end. That the failure is
to be lamented, no one wiU deny, since the conquest
of New Orleans would have been beyond aU com
parison the most valuable acquisition that could be
made to the British dominions, throughout the
whole western hemisphere. In possession of that
post, we should have kept the entire southern trade
of the United StaAes in check ; and furnished means
of commerce to our own merchants, of incalculable
value.
bb3

374 REMARKS.
The fact is, however, that when we look back
upon the whole series of events produced by the late
American Avar, we shaU find Uttle that is likely to
flatter our vanity, or increase our self-importance.
Except a few successes in Canada, at its very com
mencement, and the brilliant inroad upon Wash
ington, it will be found that our arms have been
constantly baffled or repulsed on shore; while at
sea, with the exception of the capture of the Che
sapeake, and one or two other affairs towards its
conclusion, we have been equally unsuccessful.
From what cause does this proceed ? Not from
any inferiority in courage or discipline, because in
these particulars British soldiers and sailors wUl
yield to none in the world. There must, then, be
some other cause for these misfortunes, and the
cause is surely one which has continually baffled
all our plans of American warfare.
We have long been habituated to despise the
Americans, as an enemy unworthy of serious re
gard. To this alone it is to be attributed that
frigates half-manned were sent out to cope with
ships capable of containing them within their
hulls; and to this, also, the trifling handfuls of
troops dispatched to conduct the war by land. In
stead of fifteen hundred, had ten thousand men
saUed from the Garonne under General Ross, how
differently might he have acted! There Avould
have been then no necessity for a re-embarkation.

REMARKS. 375
after the capture of Washington, and consequently
no time given for the defence of Baltimore ; but
marching across the country, he might have done to
the one city what he did to the other. And it is
thus only that a war with America can be success
fully carried on. To penetrate up the country
amidst pathless forests and boundless deserts, and to ;
aim at permanent conquest, is out of the question. |
America must be assaulted only on her coasts, i
Her harbours destroyed, her shipping burned, and
her seaport towns laid waste, are the only evils ;
which she has reason to dread : and were a sufficient
force embarked with these orders, no American war
would be of long continuance.
A melancholy experience has now taught us,
that such a war must not be entered into,
unless it be conducted with spirit ; and there
is no conducting it with spirit, except with a
sufficient numerical , force. To the plan which
I propose of making desert the whole line of
coast, it may be objected, that by so doing, we
should distress individuals, and not the Govern
ment. But they who offer this objection, forget
the nature both of the people whose cause they
plead, and of the Government- under which they
live. In a democratical Government, the voice of
the people must at aU times prevaU. The very
members of the House of Representatives are the
persons who, from such proceedings, would suffer

376 REMARKS.
most severely, and we aU know how far private suf
fering goes to influence a man's public opinions. Be
sides, thie very principle upon which the advocates
for the sacredness of private property proceed, is
altogether erroneous. I admit, that, in absolute
monarchies, where war is more properly the pastime
of kings, than the desire of subjects, non-combatants
ought to be dealt with as humanely as possible. Not
so, however, in States governed by popular assem
blies. By compelling the constituents to experience
the real hardships and miseries of warfare, you wiU
soon compel the representatives to a vote of peace ;
and surely that Une of conduct is, upon the whole,
most humane, which puts the speediest period to
the cruelties of war. There are few men who would
not rather endure a raging fever for three days, than
a slow and lingering disease for three months. So
it is with a derriocracy at war. Burn their houses,
plunder their property, block up their harbours, and
destroy their shipping in a few places ; and before
you have time to proceed to the rest, you wUl be
stopped by entreaties for peace. Whereas, if you do
no mischief that can be avoided, if you only fight
their fleets arid armies wherever you meet them,
and suffer the inhabitants to Uve in undisturbed
tranquiUity, they wiU continue these hostUities tUl
they have worn out the means of one party, and
greatly weakened those of both.
Should another war break out between Great

REMARKS. 377
Britain and America, this is the course to be adopted
by the former. Besides this, I humbly conceive that
a second attempt should be made upon New Orleans,
since the importance of the conquest would autho
rize any sacrifice for its attainment ; and when once
gained, it could be easUy defended. The neck of
land, upon which that city is built, extends in the
same manner above it as below ; and therefore the
same advantages which it holds out to its present
defenders it would likewise hold out to us. A chain
of works thrown across from the river to the marsh
would render it inaccessible from above ; while, by
covering the lakes and the Mississippi with cruisers,
all attacks from below would be sufficiently guarded
against.

THE END.

London :
Printed by S. and R. Bentley, Borset-street.

YALE UNIVERSITY

39002 003969566b

(, t ^^xi h'^^i

W}Wv\'

.' + f