YALE UNIVERSITY
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BOTH HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE :

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And Scenes by the Way.

Bio TTree Groves.
The High Sierra, with its Magnificent Scenery, Ancient and
Modern Glaciers, and Other Objects of Interest ;

TABLES OF DISTMKES IND ALTITUDES, MAPS, ETE.

PROFUSEL y /I.f USTRA TED.

Published at the Old Cabin, Yo Semite Valley,
AND AT
Pacific Pre^s Publishing Hocse, Oakland, Cal.
1886.

±^^^^^ ,

Entered iooording to Act of Kongress, in the Year, 1886, by
J. m;. Hutchings,
in tie Office of tlje Librarian of Songress, at Washington.

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Photo, hy Thos. Honsciuofth.

Photo-typo by P.riitoii &- A'cy, S

7^ DBDIGATIION. ^;
To the many pleasant friends I have met and
others whom I hope to meet at Yo Semite,
in the Heart of the Sierras, this vol
ume is most gratefully ani
feelingly dedicated, by
THE AUTHOR.

^r^BPAGE.

-:o:-

The inquiries made by appreciative and intelligent visitors to the
Yo Semite Valley, have suggestively prompted the themes that should be
descanted upon in this volume. The information desired I have endeav
ored to embody and present. In this labor of love my long residence, and
many attendant circumstances, have been supplemented by valuable his
toric and scientific details, obtained from various sources. For early rec
ords of the Valley I am mainly indebted to Dr. L. H. Bunnell, who was
not only one of its flrst visitors, and discoverers, but its earliest and princi
pal historian;* and through the kindness of Hon. W. J. Howard, of Mari
posa, and Major James Burney, of Modesto, California, and others, Ihave
been able to supply the missing links needed forthe completion of the his
torical chain of events, so much desired, and so unavailingly sought after,
by Dr. Bunnell, concerning some of the Valley's earlier history .t
The designs for the embossed covers, in black and gold, are by Mr.
Thomas Hill, the eminent and well-known California artist; who has also
generously furnished other sketches for this work. To Mr. George Fiske,
the resident photographic artist of Yo Semite, Jlr. S. C. Walker, Tabor,
and other photographers, I desire to acknowledge my obligation for many
ofthe representative subjects here presented. And to those who l)y their
financial aid have made the publication of this work possible,! gratefully
tender my sincere thanks.
Nor would I forget the faithful Indian " Tom," who, no matter how
biting cold the weather, or deep the snow in winter, not only brought us
our letters and papers, but supplied us with much interesting data of his
race in connection with the Valley and its primitive inhabitants, and I
thank him.
*See "Discovery of the Yo Semite," an invaluable and deeplyinteresting narra
tive 01 personal observation and adventure.
tibid, page 30.

ii PREFACE.
By the courteous permission of the Chief of Engineers of the U. S. A.,
Washington, D. C, I am enabled to publish their official map of the Val
ley and its surroundings.
To the Pacific Press Publishing House, Oakland, California, I desire
to acknowledge my many obligations for the uniform and untiring urbanity
and kindly services of every officer and employ^. The workmanship of
its multifarious departments will speak for itself in this volume.
It will readily be seen that in addition to the many finely executed
wood engravings that were expressly prepared for this book, I have pressed
into service the new and beautiful process of photo-lithography for its
more complete embellishment.
For the convenience of those who may be desirous of making hurried
consultations of portions of this work, sub-headings will be found running
through its various chapters.
Having done the very best that I could, I now leave the success of
my endeavor in the hands of my friends and the public.
J. M. H.

©ABLE OP Contents.

-¦.o:-

CHAPTEP I. Is an Epitome of the Voiced Impressions of Eminent Personages
concerning Yo Semite  13
CHAPTER II. Capses Leading to the Discovery of Yo .Se.mitb. The Un
paralleled Influx of Gold Miners; Jealousy of the Indians; Breaking Out of
Hostilities; Official Testimony of Their Cruelties and Murders; Mustering in
of the First Company ot Volunteers; Initiative Conflict with the Foe. . .22
CHAPTER III. How and When Discovered. Formation and Organization of
the Mariposa Battalion; Its Line of March; Placed in Charge of the U. S.
Indian Commissioners; Arrival of the U. S. Indian Commissioners at the
Scene of Hostilities; Peace Messengers Sent to the Indian Villages; Numbers
of the Diff'erent Tribes; A Portion of the Hostiles Accept the Proffered
Terms; First Intimation of the Existence of Such a Place as the Yo Semite
Valley; Capture of an Indian ViUage; Interview of the Old Indian Chief,
Ten-ie-ya, with the Officer in Command; The Yo Semites Deflant, An Ex
pedition Resolved Upon against Them; Yo Semities Met upon the Way;
The Yo Semite Valley First Seen by White Men  41
CHAPTERIV. TheName, 'Y'oSemite," Its Origin and Meaning; Legendary
Tradition Concerning It; Why Spelled Yo Semite, instead of Yosemite. .58
CHAPTER V. Close or the Indian Campaign. Flight of the Yo Semite In
dians; Captives Taken; Start for the Reservation, but all Escape in a
Single Night; New Campaign Resolved upon; Three of Ten-ie-ya's Sons
Captured; The Indians Lure Their Pursuers into a Trap; Escape of a Pris
oner; Ten-ie-ya's Youngest Son Shot Dead; Capture of Ten-ie-ya, His At
tempted Escape, and Speech; Surprise of an Indian Village at Lake Ten-
ie-ya; Naming of the Lake; March for Yo Semite; End of the Mariposa
Indian War  62
CHAPTER VI. Early Historical Incidents. Indians Leave the Reservation;
Prospecting Miners Murdered in Yo Semite; the U. S. Expedition against
the Indians Retums without Capturing or Killing an Indian; Approximate
Extermination of the Yo Semite Tribe by the Monos; Death of Ten-ie-ya,
The Last Chief of the Yo Semites; End of Major Savage  74
(iii)

iv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VII. The First Tourist Visitors to Yo Semite; Difficuliies to be
Surmounted; Old-time Mining Scenes; Indian Guides Secured fir Yo Semite;
Origin of the Nomenclature " Bridal Veil Fall; " Discovery ot 'S'ernal and
Nevada Falls; The First View Ever Published of Yo Semite  /&
CHAPTER VIII. Early Develop.aient and Progress at Yo Semite. Con
struction of Trails; Pioneer Hotel Building, and Hotel Keepers; The Old
Hutchings House; The Pioneer Photographer of Yo Semite  9S
CHAPTER IX. Its First Winter Visitor. Rumors of Snow-drifts Halt
Filling It; Exploratory Excursion There; Storm Bound; Voyage Down the
Flooded Merced River; Two Shipwrecks; Hotel on a Cruise; Unsuccessful
Return; Second Attempt to Visit It; A Perilous Journey of Eleven Days
Alone; Six Days Wallowing through Snow; A Look into Paradis,-; Antics
of a Grizzly Bear; Successful Termination of the Journey  103
CHAPTER X. Early Day Reviewals. Primitive Method of Transporting
Supplies; Mysteries of Packing; Intelligence of Mules; Enormous Weights
Packed; A Procession ot Oddities; Pack Train Snowed in; Human Help
and Brandy Carry Timely Aid; Pioneer Methods of Obtaining Lumber;
Annual Number of Tourist Visitors; Influential Helpers in the Cause;
Need of India-rubber Adaptability in Accommodations; Progressive Im
provements Carried on  IIS
CHAPTER XI. Cabin Ho.mes .\t Yo Sbmttk. Lanion's Cabin; Biographical
Outline ot James C. Lamon; His Lonely Residence There for Tivo Winters;
His Supposed Murder. The Hutchings' Cabiu; Winter Employments and
Experiences; Pleasant Occupation the Secret of Human Happiness; The
Orchard and Strawberry Patch; Pmtrance ot the Angel of Sorrow; In
Memoriam  jg^
CHAPTER XII. CoN(jRKssiON.iLL and State Enai;tmknts Co.mcernino Yo Sem
ite. Act of Congress Granting Yo Semite ^'alley to the State; Governor's
Proclamation Appointing Its Initial Board of Commis sioners; Official Ac
ceptance ot the Grant; Adverse Action Towards the Settlers; State Action
in Their Behalf; An Incidental Digression; The Settlers' Cass before ( 'on-
grcss; Reprehensible Re, resentation in the U. S. Senate; Mistaken "Public
Policy; ' Adverse Rulings of the Supreme Court; Maynauimity of the State
Towards the Settlers  , , „
 149
CHAI TER XIII. .loi'RNEY AND RorrES to Yo Semite in Oitline. The S
Routes to the Valley and Big Trees; About Personal Baggage; A \Vord t
Parties Camping; Camping Outfit in Detail; Tents aud Their Arrange
ments  , „„
 iea

CONTENTS. y
CHAPTER XIV. The Main or Trunk Route towards Yo Semite— San
Frinwsco to Lathrop. Excitements at the Wharf; Crossing the Bay;
Alcatraces (Alcatraz) Island; Angel Island; Mt. Tamalpais; Goat Island;
Oakland Pier, and Its Elegant Waiting Koom; Way-Stations; Wild Oats;
The C. P. R. R. Monster Transfer Boat Solano; Straits of Carquinez;
Martinez; Popular Amusements of Native Californians; Monte del Diablo;
Lathrop, and Ita Diverging Railroads  '  172
CHAPTER XV. Bay and River Routes TO Yo Semite. Scenes at the Wharf ;
The Golden Gate; Fort Point; Islands, En Route; Bays ot San Pablo and
Suisun; Salmon Fishing on the Sacramento and San Joaquin Kivers; Mos
quitoes; Tules on Fire; Productiveness ot Tule Lands; Arrival at the Stock
ton Wharf  191
CHAPTER XVI. The Milton and Calaveras Bk; Trte Route. Table of
Distances; The City of Stockton; Heavy Freight Enterprises; Deepest
Artesian ^^'ell in the State; The Various Strata Passed through When
Boring It; Railroad Ride to Milton; The Stage and Its Drivers; Kind of
Country Passed Over; The Mining Village of Murphy's; How and Wheu
the Big Trees Were First Discovered; Road to the Calaveras Grove; Its
Commodious Hotel; The Original Big Tree and Its Stump; Walk through
the Grove; The South Grove, .and Its Trees; Ride Down to Murphy's;
The Newly Discovered Cave There; Calaveras County Caves, and Natural
Bridges; Drive through the Mining District; Sonora and Its People; Chinese
Camp  207
CHAPTER XVII. The Big Trees in General. Their Classification and
Naming; Why Named Seijuoia; Their Distribution, Probable Age, and
Rapid Growth; Durability of the Timber; Fossilized Big Trees Found. .241
CHAPTER XVIII. The Berenda Route. Railroad Ride to Berenda, thence
to Raymond; Table of Distances; The Horned Toad and Its Habits; The
Gambetta Gold Mines; Grant's Sulphur Springs; Wawona, with Its Hotel
and Proprietors; Hill's Art Studio; Drive to and through the Mariposa
Big Tree Grove; Remarkable Size and Characteristics of It.s Trees; Wawona
Point; The Fresno Grove; A Bear Hunt; The Chil-noo-al-na Falls, and Mrs.
Cook's Poem; Signal Peak; Sublime View of the Sierras Therefrom; Other
Points of Interest at Wawona; Scenes on the Way to Yo Semite; The
Glorious View from Inspiration Point  248
CHAPTER XIX. The Madera Route to Yo Semite. Its Historic Indian
Associations; Table of Distances; The Town ot Madera; The V Lumber
Flume; Lassoing and Branding of Cattle; Coarse Gold Gulch; Town of
Fresno Flats; Forest Scenes  272

vi CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XX. The Coulteeville Route. Towns of Modesto and Merced;
Table of Distances; Rolling Country ; Fossils; The Road Runner; Tarant
ulas, and Their Enemy; The Stupendous Gold-bearing Mother Vein;
Coulterville; Dudley's Ranch; Bower Cave; Construction of the Coulter-
ville and Yo Semite Turnpike; Scenery on the Road; Pilot Peak; The
Merced Grove of Big Trees; View from Buena Vista Gap; The Great Canon
of the Merced River  279
CHAPTER XXI. The Mariposa Route. Mariposans the Fkst Whites to
Enter Yo Semite; Table of Distances; Mining Scenes by the Way; Various
Methods of Mining for Gold; California Quail; A Boy That " Didn't Know
Nuffink;" The Red-headed Woodpecker; Mr. Horace Cxreeley's Descrip
tion of a California Forest; His Terrible Ride to Y'o Semite  292
CHAPTER XXII. The Milton and Big Oak Flat Route to Yo Semite.
Table of Distances; Milton; The Reservoir House; Copperopolis; Table
Mountain; Goodwin's; Chinese Camp; Moffitt's Bridge; Priest's Hotel;
Big Oak Flat; Hamilton's; Crocker's; Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees; Crane
Flat; Foretaste of Grand Scenes; Crossing the Snow Belt in Spring; Horses
on Snow-shoes; Look into the Merced Canon; Magnificent View of Ya
Semite Valley from the Bi,' Oak Flat Road  311
CHAPTER XXIII. Scenes to Be Witnessed from the Floor of the Valley.
The Ride up It; What the Yo Semite Valley Is; Theories about Its
Formation; The Fissures; Eroding Action of Glaciers over a Mile in
Thickness; Uncertain Time of the Glacial Period; Natural Phenomena;
Trails Built to Grand Scenic Standpoints; The Three Hotels and Their
Landlords; Sinning's Cabinet Shop; Art Studios; Photo Establishments;
Store; Mrs. Glynn's; Livery Stables; Guides; Public School; The Yo
Semite Chapel, The Guardian; Forest Trees, Shrubs, Plwwers, and Ferns
of Yo Semite; Trout Fishing: Basis of Measurements; Tables of Distances-
Legend of the Lost Arrow; Yo Semite Falls; Mirror Lake; Legend of
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah; Old Moraines; The New Hotel; Doings of a " Cy
clone;" Rocky Point; The Three Brothers; El (.'apitan; The Ribbon Fall-
Enchantment Point; Picturesque Road to Cascade Falls: The Pohono
Bridge and Avenue; Bridal Veil Fall; Indian Dread of "Pohono;" Curious
Phenomena; The Cathedral Spires; Profile, or Fissure Mountain- The
Sentinel  „„„
CHAPTER XXIV. Manners and Customs of the Indians. " Indian Tom "
His Lite Being Saved Induces Him to Tell All That He Knows about
His Race; The Indian Camp; Present Number of Indians; Acorns Their
Staple Breadstuff; How Prepared for Food; Other Edible Luxuries; Fan
dangos; Religious Beliefs; Burning of Their Dead  ..c.

CONTENTS. vii
CHAPTER XXV. To Vernal and Nevada Falls. The Anderson TraU; Reg
ister Rock; Sublime View from the New Bridge; The Vernal Fall; De
lightful Ride up the Trail; The Cap of Liberty and Nevada Fall; Snow's
"Casa Nevada;" Eleven Feet of Snow; Diamond Cascade; "Taking a
Bawth " on the Silver Apron; Emerald Pool; Scene from the Top of the
Vernal and Nevada Falls; The Ladders; Fem Grotto  438
CHAPTER XXVI. Grizzly Peak, Half Dome, and Cloud's Rest. Ascent
of Grizzly Peak by Mr. Chas. A. Bailey; The Dangerous Yet Compensating
Climb. Early Futile Attempts to Ascend the Half Dome; Anderson's Per
severance Crowned with Success; The View Therefrom without Its
Counterpart on Earth; Others Who Have Climbed It; The Rope Torn
Down by an Avalanche; Thrilling Adventure of Two Young Men When
Engaged in Replacing It. The Marvelously Comprehensive View of the
Sierras from Cloud's Rest; The Way Thither over Old Moraines, and
Past Glacier-polished Mountain-sides; The " Umbrella Tree " Near the Top
ot Nevada Pall; The Wonderful " Snow Plant " of the Sierras  4.'')4
CHAPTER XXVII. Glacier Point and its Galaxy of Glories. The Glacier
Point Trail and Its Builder, James McCauley; Remarkable Scenes on the
Way; Union Point; The Agassiz Column; Moran Point; The Sierras from
McCauley's Porch; Startling View from Glacier Point; Derrick Dodd's
Tough Hen Story; Sentinel Dome; Ascent of Mt. Starr King; Sugar Loaf
Shape of the South Dome from the Glacier Canon Trail; The Too-lool-we-
ack Fall and CaBon; Picturesque Road from Chinquapin Flat to Glacier
Point  467
CHAPTER XXVIII. The Upper Yo Semite Fall, Eagle Peak, Lake Ten-
ie-ya, and High Sierra. Columbia Rock, and Transport Point; Won
derful Changes and Effects ot the Falling Water Beneath the Upper Yo
Semite Fall; The Cave There; Frolics of Yo Semite Creek at the Top of the
Fall betore Making Its Leap Down; Awe-inspiring View from Eagle Peak;
Dr. Newman's Eulogy There; Forest-arched Ride to Beautiful Lake
Ten-ie-ya; The Mountains around It; John L. Murphy and His Cabin; A
Curious Phenomenon; Miles of Glacier-polished Granite; The Ascent of Mt.
Hoffman; Sources of Yo Semite Creek; Upper Verge of the Timber Line:
Soda Springs: Ascent of Mt. Dana; Evidences of Ancient Glaciers Eight
Hundred Feet in Thickness on Top of It; Living Glaciers; Inexpressibly
Sublime View from the Summit ot Mt. Dana; Ascent of Mt. Lyell; Its
Large Glacier; Sources of the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers; Scenes on
the Way When Returning to Yo Semite  475

viii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIX. The Seasons at Yo Semite Valley. The Best Time to
Visit It; Its Captivating Dress in Autumn; Winter at Yo Semite; The
Great Storm and Flood of 1867; The Snow Fall; Kind ot Snow-shoes Used;
Enchantingly Beautiful Cloud and Snow Effects; Icicles a Hundred and
Twenty Feet in Length; An Ice Cone Five Hundred and Fifty Feet in
Height; Magical Changes and Brilliant Hues of the Sunlight upon the Falling
Water; The End  490

Pmn-pom-pa-sa !

iLLtUSiPF^ArniONS.

9-
10.
II.12. 13-
14-
IS-i6.
17-1 8.

Page
General View of Vo Semite Valley, from Wawona Road, XDpp. Title.
Portrait of Author  Opposite 3
Bear with its Prey  '.  7
Map of Routes to Yo Semite Valley  Opposite 12
Map of Yo Semite Valley  '  " 12
Glimpse of Yd Semite Valley, from Big Oak Flat Road. " 32
Ribbon Fall — Lung-oo-too-koo-yah  " 48
Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah, or El Capitan  " 64
Indians on the March  73
Initial Letter O — .\ Mining Scene  75
The Indian Attack   75
Enchantment Point — Yoo-un-yah  80
See! I've Struck It — A Mining Scene  82
A Miner's Cabin  83
Ho for the Mountains 1  84
We Seek a "Cut Off"  85
And Find a "Cut Off"  86
General View of Yo Semite Valley (First sketch ever taken of it) 88
(ix)

ILLUSTRATIONS.
"VO-COV-X AND TiS-SA-ACK, NORTH, AND HaLF DoME  QC*
Steady! There! Steady!  93
Cascade Falls  Opposite 96
The Old Hutchings House  102
Now for Another Start  106
Cathedral Spires — Poo-see-na Chuck-ka  Opposite 112
Fastening on the Packs  119
In Trouble  119-
Mexican Persuasion  119
Pack Train on the Trail  12D
The Pack Train in Camp at Night  123
Carrying Deliverance  125
Caught in a Snow Storm  126
The Three Brothers— Pdm-pom-pa-sa  Opposite i28-
Portrait of James C. Lamon  135
Lamon's Log Cabin  136
Hutchings' Old Log Cabin  Opposite 13&
The Yo Semite Fall — Chd-lock — in Early Spring  Opposite 160
Outline Plan of an Open Tent for Camping.  170
Alcatraces (Alcatraz), or Pelican Island  173
The Yo Semite Fall — Reflected, During High Water. .. .Opp. 176
Country Near Martinez  183
Native Californians Racing  184
Californians Snatching the Rooster When in Full Gallop... 186
Island Rapids, from Tis-sa-ack Bridge  Opposite 192
Passing the Golden Gate  194
The Fort (near view)  loc
Red, or Treasure Rock  id6
The Two Sisters  ,„,
Entering the .Straits of Carquinez  log
Looking Towards the Sacramento River  loa
Salmon Fishing — Paying out the Seine  200
" " Hauling IN the Seine  201
" " Group OF Salmon  202
The San Joaquin River at Night— Tules on Fire  2oq
Entering the Stockton Slough  -_^
North Dome— To-coy-.«— From Tis-sa-ack Bridge  Opposite 208
The "Prairie Schooner"  „„„.
 209
Calaveras Big Tree Grove Hotel  o
Cotillion Party of Thirty-Two Dancing on the Big Tree Stump 220
B<?ring Down the Original Big Tree with Pump Augers 221
Trunk of Big Tree and Pavilion  ,
Big Tree, " Mother of the Forest " 
Horseman Emerging from the "Father of the Forest"  226
Big Tree, " Smith's Cabin "  2^0

ILL USTRA TIONS. xL
64. Cave View, " Bridal Veil Chamber"  235
65. Upper Side of Upper Natural Bridge  237
66. Upper Side of Lower Natural Bridge  238
67. Cone and Foliage of the Big Trees, Ordinary Size  242
68. Representative Cones and Flowers of the two Sequoias. 243
69. The Horned Toad  250
70. Eggs of the Horned Toad  251
71. The Wawona Hotel  255
72. Big Tree, " Grizzly Giant"  257
73. DRivifiG Through the Living Big Tree "Wawona"  260
74. Bear Hunt in the Fresno Grove  264
75. Chil-noo-al-na Falls  266
76. The Sierras from Signal Peak  269
77. Rancheros Lassoing Cattle  276
78. Fossilized Mastodon's Tooth and Portion of Jaw  281
79. The California Road Runner  282
80. A Tarantula's Nest  284
81. Bower Cave  287
82. The Vernal Fall— Pi-wy-ack  Opposite 288
83. Indian Woman Panning Out Gold  294
84. The Prospector  294
85. Batea, or Mexican Mining Bowl  296
86. Chinamen Washing Out Gold with a Cradle  296
87. Sluice Mining and Ground Sluicing  298
88. Water Flume for Mining Purposes  299
89. Miner's Pan and Horn Spoon  301
90. Miners Sinking a Shaft  302
91. Miners Following Down the Ledge  303
92. Hydraulic Mining  Opposite 304
93. Pair of California Valley Quail  306
94. The Boy that " Didn't Know Nuffink"  307
95. California Red-Headed Woodpecker (Melanerpes formicivorous) . . 308
96. Wall of Table Mountain  Opposite 313
97. Table Mountain, Tuolumne County, Cal  313
98. A Chinese Couple  315
99. Chinese Feast to the Dead  316
100. Moffitt's Tuolumne CaSon Bridge, near Jacksonville. . .Opp. 320
IOI. The "Dead Giant" Big Tree Stump, Tuolumne Grove  328
102. Horse on Snow-shoes  330
103. Nevada Fall — Yo-wi-ye  Opposite 336
104. Scene on the Merced River  341
105. The Fissure  345
106. The Big Tree Room (Barnard's Hotel)  Opposite 349
107. Nathan B. Phillips, "Pike"  354
108. The Yo Semite Chapel  35^

xii ILLUSTRATIONS.
109. California Silver Fir (Picea Bracteata)  3S9
iio. Cone of " "  360
ill. Nature versus Art — "What do you use for Bait?"  364
112. The Sentinel — Loya — El Capitan, and Valley  Opposite 368
113. Indian Canon  375
1 14. Ford of Yo Semite Creek  378
1 1 5. Near View of Vo Semite Fall  381
116. North Dome, Royal Arches, and Washington Tower  384
J17. Mirror Lake — Ke-ko-too-yem — (Sleeping Water)  386
1 18. The Three Brothers — Pom-pom-pa-sa  395
119. Half Dome and Cloud's Rest, from Glacier Point . . .Opposite 400
120. Distant view of Bridal Veil Fall — Po-ho-no  403
121. Near view of Bridal Veil Fall — Po-ho-no  404
122. Merced River, View from El Capitan Bridge  410
123. The Sentinel — Loya  413
124. " " (Casting Reflections)  415
125. Indian Tom  420
126. Indian Woman Gathering Acorns  423
127. Indian Store-houses for Acorns — Poo-see-na-Chuck-ka  Opp. 424
128. Indian Woman Carrying Acorns  425
129. " Grinding Acorns and Seeds  426
130. Indians Preparing and Cooking Food  427
131. " Catching Grasshoppers  429
132. " at a Fandango  431
133. Indian Marriage Ceremony  432
134. Indian Preparing Body for Cremation  435
135. Indians Burning their Dead  .36
136. Cap of Liberty and Nevada Fall  444
137. Silver Apron and Diamond Cascade  4^0
138. The Ladders, in Winter  .t^
139. Indian Escape Trail to Half Dome  .eg
140. Ascending the Lower Dome  .p-
141. Anderson Standing on the Edge of Half Dome, Looking West.. 458
142. Pen Sketch of Anderson on Half Dome, Looking East 41:9
143. The California Snow Plant ( Sarcodes sanguinea)  Opposite 466
144. Sierras, from Glacier Point — Key to.  470
145. Half Dome, as seen from Too-lool-we-ack Canon  .7^
146. The Too-lool-we-ack, or Glacier CaSon Fall  474
147. Cave at Base of Upper Fall   477
148. Map OF THE High Sierra  o,
149. Mount Lyell and its Glacier, from Tuolumne Meadows .Qnp 487
150. The Norwegian Snow-shoe, used at Yo Semite, in Winter
151. Ice Cone of 550 feet Beneath the Upper Yo Semite Fall
152. The End  \
^  496

p^

MAP OF ROUTES TO YO SEMITE V.\LLEY.

EXPEDITIONS OF 1878 -79, Under the Command of

THE
TO SEMITE YALLEY.
CHAPTER L
AS OTHERS SEE IT.
Like thoughts whose very sweetness yieldeth proof
That they were born for immortality. — Wordswokch's Sonnet.
To him who in the love of nature holds
Communion with her visible furms, she speaks
A various language. — Bryant'.s Thanatopsis..
The roaring cataract, the snow topt hill,
Inspiring awe, till breath itself stands still.
— Bloompield's Farmer's Boy.
Voiced impressions of Horace Greeley, Rev. Thomas Stan
King, Prof. J. D. Whitney, Samuel B. Bowles, John S. Hittell
Prof. O. S. Fowler, Hon. Robt. Marsham, Prof. Wm, H. Brewer,
James Vick, Rev. A\' P. Abbott, Benjamin F. Taylor, James A.
Garfield (President of the U. S.), Mrs. C. A. Chamberlain, Hon
Thomas Scott, Hon. Therese Yelverton, Helen Hunt Jackson,
His Grace the Duke of Sutherland, Albert D. Richardson, Sidney
Andrews, Mrs. Jean Bruce Washburn, Charles L. Brace, Mary E.
Blake, and others. It is with reluctance and sincere regret that
the recorded sentiments of many other distinguished visitors to Yo
Semite are necessarily omitted from this representative galaxy.
Of the grandest sights I have enjoyed — Rome from the dome
of St. Peter's, the Alps from the valley of Lake Como, Mount
(13)

14 IN THE HR.\RT OF THE SIEUR AS.
Blanc and her glaciers from Chamouiii, Niagara, and the Yo Semite,
— 1 judge the last named the most unique and stupendous. It is a
partially wooded gorge, 100 to 300 rods wide, and 3,000 to 4,00a
ieet deep, between almost perpendicular walls of gray granite, aud^
here and there a dark yellow pine, rooted in a crevice of either^
wall, and clinging with desperate tenacity to its dizzj' elevation.
The isolation of the Yo Semite, the absolute wilderness of its sylvan
solitudes, many miles from human settlement or cultivation, its
•cascade 2,000 feet high, though the stream which makes this leap
ias worn a channel in the hard bed-rock to a depth of 1,000 feet,
renders it the grandest marvel that ever met my gaze. — Horace
Oreeley, N. Y. Independent of March, 1860.
Nowhere among the Alps, iri no pass of the Andes, and in no
cafion of the mighty Oregon Range, is there such stupendous rock
scenery as the traveler here lifts his eyes to. — Rev. Thomas Starr
JilNG, San Francisco.
The peculiar features of the Yosemite are: First, the near ap
proach to verticahty of its walls; next, their great height, not only
absolutely, but as compared to the width of the valley itself; and
-finally, the very small amount of debris or talus, at the bottom of
these gigantic cliffs. These are the great characteristics of the val
ley throughout its whole length; but besides these, there are many
other striking peculiarities and features, both of sublimity and
beauty, which can hardly be surpassed, if equaled, by those of
any other mountain scenery in the world. — Prop. J. D. Whitney,
.State Geologist of California.
The overpowering sense of the sublime, of awful desolation,
of transcendent marvelousness and unexpectedness, that swept
over us, as we reined our horses sharply out of green forests, and
stood upon a high jutting rock that over-looked this rolling, up
heaving sea of granite mountains, holding, far down in its rough
lap, the vale of meadow and grove and river— such a tide of feel
ing, such stoppage of ordinary emotions, comes at raro intervals
in any life. It was the confrontal of God face to face, as in great
¦danger, or sudden death. It was Niagara magnified. All that

TUE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 15
was mortal shrank back; all that was immortal swept to the front,
and bowed down in awe. — Samuel B. Bowles, Springfield Repub
lican. Yo Semite is the crowding of a multitude of romantic peculiar,
and grand scenes within a very small space. — John S. Hittell's
Guide Book.
The longer we look the greater the scenes appear. — Prop. O.
S. Fowler, Boston, Mass.
I wish to keep the view in my mind forever. — J. A. Bril-
linger, Ewingsville, Fa.
I was never so near Heaven in my life. — H. Windel, San
Francisco. I have spent seventeen days in Yo Semite, and I never left a
place with so rnuch regret in my life. I have several times visited
all the noted places of Europe, and many that are out of the regular
tourist's round: I have crossed the Andes in three different places,
and been conducted to the sights deemed most remarkable: I have
been among the charming scenery of the Sandwich Islands, the
Himalayas of India, and the mountain districts of Australia, but
never have I seen so much of sublime grandeur, relieved by so
much beauty, as that I have witnessed in Yo Semite. — Hon. Robt.
Marsham, Maidstone, Kent, England.
As a member of the State Geological Survej- I have visited
the Yosemite Valley four times — June, 1863, August, 1864, Sep
tember, 1864, and April, 1875 — and the valley seems grander on
this fourth visit than it did on the first. — Proe. Wm. H. Brewer,
Yale College, New Haven, Conn.
The road to Yo Semite, like the way of life, is narrow and
difficult, but the end, like the end of a well-spent life, is glorious
beyond the highest anticipation. — James Vick, Rochester, N. Y.
Here speaks the voice of God, and here his power is seen.
Let man be dumb. — Rev. W. P. Abbott, New York City.

16 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Yo Semite awaited us without warning, met us without com
ing. Spectral white in the glancing of the sun, the first thought
was that the granite ledges of all the mountains had come to res
urrection, and were standing pale and dumb before the Lord. I
turned to it again, and began to see the towers, the domes, the
spires, the battlements, the arches, and the white clouds of solid
granite, surging ujj into the air and come to everlasting anchor till
"the mountains shall be moved." You hasten on; you hear the
winds intoning in the choral galleries a mile above your head; you
hear the crash of waters as of cataracts in the sky; jou trample
upon broad shadows that have fallen thousands of feet down, like
the cast-off garments of descending Night. — Benj. F. Taylor's
Between the Gates.
This is thc crowning glory of all views on this continent. —
Chas. Caspar, Meridian, Conn.
If my business interests lay upon this coast, I would build a
railroad to lliis truly marvelous valley, within one j-ear from this
date. — Hon. Thomas Scott, Pennsylvania Central R. R.
I have N])ent the four happiest months of my life in this glori
ous valley. — Hon. Therese Yelverton {Lody Acunmore).
An indescribable dehght took jjoss^ession of me; the silence
seemed more than silence; it seemed to quiver without sound, just
as the warm air shimmei-ed without stir, along ah the outlines of" the
rocky walls. Ou my left hand rose the granite watch-tower Loya
(Sentinel Eock), on my right the colossal buttress Tu-tock-ah-
nu-la (El Capital!). The Cathedral Spires, the Three Brothers, ah
were in full sight. Wherever I stood, the mountain walls seemed
to shut dose around me in a circle. 1 said to myself, agahi and
again: " Only between 3,000 and 4,000 feet high !" But the figures
had lost their meaning. AU sense of estimated distance was
swallowed up, obliterated l,y the feehng of what seemed to be
immeasurable height.— H. H.s Bits of Travel.
One might stay here for months and seo new beauties everv
day. — Mrs. A. W. Gillette, Gras." Lake, Mich. "

THE YO SEMITE YALLEY. 17
No one can study this valley and its surroundings without
being broader-minded thereafter. — James A. Garfield, President
of the United States. I linger'd till a shaft of fire
Shot o/er the mountains — spire by spire.
Burned in the swift and broadening flame
That onward swelled, till it became •
A wide and mellow amber Hood,
That poured o'er mountain, stream, and wood.
And lit the blue, deep dome above
With Deity's warm smile cf love;
How fair that place — how radiant all
The scene beneath that mountain wall !
Then suddenly awoke to me
The pine wood's varied melody; —
The murmurous music of the river.
The aspen's low, light, dreamy quiver.
The jay-bird's quick, discordant cry.
The robin's tender minstrelsy
I heard — and full, and deep, and strong —
(Would I could ever keep that song! )
The pean of the water-fall
L'ame to me 'neath that mountain wall.
And flowers were there — the old dear flowers —
The first I loved in childhood's hours;
There glowed the wildling rose, that grew
Beside my home when life was new; —
0 golden heart — 0 lips so red,
Xaught from thy precious smile had fled
Through the long years; — thy odorous breath
Yet told of love that knows no death !
0 life, thy stern, thy gentle call
Came to me, 'neath that mountain wall !
— Mrs. C. a. C'hamberl.\tx, Sarrnmento.
Real estate is verj' high hereabouts ! — Derrick Dodd, A. F.
Ern ning Post.
This .spoils one for anj' other scenery ujion earth. — His Grace,
THE DCKE OF SUTHERLAND, Enijlonil.
Nature had here lifted her curtain to reveal the vast and the
infinite. It eliciteil no adjectives, no exclamations. With a be-

18 IN THE HEART OF THE SIEfiRAS.
wildering sense of divine power and human littleness, I could only
gaze in silence till the view strained my braiii and pained my eyes,
compelling me to turn away and rest from its oppressive magni
tude. — Albert D. Richardson's Beyond the Mississippi.
Speech may be silver, but in this marvelous vale, where
grandeur and majesty have met, " Silence is golden." — E. Edmon-
STON, Santa Barbara, Cal.
Suddenlj-, as I rode along, I heard a shout. 1 knew the val
lej' had revealed itself to those who were at the front of the line.
1 turned my head awaj'. I couldn't look until I had tied mj'
horse. Then I walked down to thc ledge and crawled out uj)on
the over-hanging rocks. I believe some men walk out there — it's
a dull sort of a soul who can do that. In all mj- life, let it lead me
where it maj', I think I shall see nothing else so grand, so awful,
so sublime, so beautiful — beautiful with a beautj' not of this earth
^as that vision ofthe Valley. How long I sat there I never shall
know. I brought the picture away with me; I have only to shut
my eyes, and I see it as I saw it in that hour of hours. I think I
shall see nothing else so sublime and beautiful, till, hapj)ilj', I stand
within the gates of the Heavenly Citj'. — Sidney Andrews' Letter
to the Boston Advertiser.
I maj' as well tiy to measure a rainbow with a two-foot rule
as to take this in.^WM. Darrack, New York City.
My soul bowed down in wondering, humble awe,
When first thy peaks and water-falls I saw;
And every hour but shows how vain 'twould be
For my frail mind to hope to picture thee.
Thy spell shall live when those who view thee now,
Have passed with ages 'neath thy mighty brow.
And like thy mists, in gorgeous gleamings curled,
Our names have melted from this changing world.
— Mrs. Jean Beuce Washburn, San Francisco.
From the hotel there are excursions enough to occupj' one for
weeks among the beautiful scenes of the vallej'. One of the most
enjoj'able features of these excursions is simply riding up and
down it, getting the new aspects whieh open freshly every half

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 11)
mile, and are different eveiy hour of the day. The wonderful
thing about the canon, and which will hereafter draw manj' an
invalid here from distant lands, is its diviue atmosphere. To me,
just recovering from a tedious fever, it seemed the vcry elixir of
life — cool, clear, stimulating, and filled with light and gloiy from
the sun of the south, which here never seems in summer to have
a cloud. The nights are cool, but midday wouhl be too warm
were it not for the delicious sea-breeze which every daj' at eleven
blows in from the Golden Gate, 1.50 miles awaj'. The gorge is
fortunatelj' east and west, just opposite San Francisco, and about
midwaj' between the two flanks of the Sierras — here some seventy
miles in width. Were it a north and south valley, even at its alti
tude (4,000 feet above sea level), it would be almost intoleraljle.
Now, nothing can surpass its mild, invigorating climate, and har
monious atmosphere. The charm of the wonderful valley is its
cheerfulness and joj'. Even the awe-inspiring grandeur and
majesty of its features does not overwhelm the sense of its exquis
ite beauty, its wonderful delicacj', and color, and life, and joy.
As I recall those rides in the fresh morning, or tho dreamj'
noon, that seene of unequaled grandeur and beautj' is forever
stamped on my memorj', to remain when all other scenes of earth
have jDassed from remembrance — the pearly gray and purple prec
ipices, awful in mass, far above one, with deep shadows on their
rugged surfaces, dark lines of gigantic archways or fantastic
images drawn clearly upon them, the bright white water dashing
over the distant gray tops seen against the dark blue of the un
fathomable sky, the heavj' shadows over the valley from the
mighty peaks, the winding stream and peaceful green sward with
gaj' wild flowers below, the snowy summits of the Sierras far
awaj', the atmosphere of glory illuminating ah, and the eternal
voice of manj- waters wherever j'OU walk or rest! This is the
Yo Semite in memory. — Charles L. Brace's The New West.
Dropped at our veiy feet, and clothed in such fair proportions
of majestj' and beauty as made it more a spiritual joy than an
earthlj' loveliness. The vallej' rested, silent and set apart, as if
human eyes for the first time beheld it, wrapped in a veil of soft,
purple raist, that made it seem, in spite of its nearness, hke a vis-

20 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
ion that would fade while we gazed. In front. El Capitan, erect
and fearless, as became the warden of the magic world bej'ond,
lifting its bare white front 3,300 feet in one superb perpendicular
line from base to summit; opposite, the soft-falhng, swaying foam
of the falls bounding nearlj' 1,000 feet through the air before it
struck the broken rocks below; beyond, the rounding curves of the
Three Graces, the sweeping line of the South Dome, and far away
the veiled summit of Cloud's Rest, piled with soft, gray shadows.
A broken line of shining water came like a silver thread, showing
here and there in the depths of the lovely valley, 'and broadened
into a small mirrored lake almost at our feet below. It was be
yond conception and utterance. Tho sense of solitude, of peace,
and of an inspiration which sprang from both was so profound as
to be oppressive. Even the most frivolous spirits among us were
struck with sudden calm, as if they stood at tho portals of some
divine mj'steiy, and it was with a feeling almost of relief that we
turned awaj' at last, and went down the slope of the dizzy moun
tain to enter in at the gates below. — Mary E. Blake's On the Wing.
The only spot that I have ever found that came up to the
brag. — Ralph Waldo Emerson.
After such strikingly graphic, word-clothed impressions and
confessions as those above presented, a more detailed descriptive
picture of this marvelous locality, and its matchless surroundings,
would seem to be suggestive of an attempt to compass the impos
sible. Even a residence within its sublirae environments of nearly
a quarter of a century, in winter as well as in summer, while
making me lovingly familiar with its many sesthetic charms, and
amazing natural phenomena, only convinces that approximate
justice in delineation is simply unattainable. One may tell of
its vertical or tree-studded walls, and their relative heights; of
the hoary-headed and dome-crowned summits around it; of its
lotty and picturesque waterfalls, feathered, it may be, with
vapory rockets; of its deep and bowlder- strewn tributary canons;
of its defiant and cloud-draped crags and peaks; of its'l„;autiful
and tree-margined river; of its flower-carpeted and shrub-framed

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 21
meadows; or press into valuable service the figures and compari
sons of experienced scientists, and determine the diameter, and
angle, and altitude of every cliff, or rock, and forest tree; but
these are only facts. And one may explain the interesting inci
dents of its discovery; the geological theories of its formation;
its many explicit lessons in botanical science; the habits, customs,
life and legends of its Indians; and present the many characteristic
phases of tourist experiences; but these, with hundreds of other
kindred themes, are, after all, nothing but hard and unfeeling
facts; whereas Yo Semite, to the poet, is tiie grandest of lyrics;
to the artist. Nature's ever-captivating picture gallery ; to the
preacher, the most suggestively eloquent of sermons ; and to the
worshiper, the sublimest of temples — where God is always within.
Who, then, can enter into the holy of holies of all of these ? He
who might attempt it should not be unmindful of the divine
command to Moses: "Draw not nigh hither: put off thy shoes
frora off thy feet, for the pilace whereon thou standest is holy
ground." Then who maj- fully apprehend the law by which the many-
voiced choral symphonies ot the winJ swept trees, or leaping
water-falls, ux bounding cataracts, or " babbling brooks," maj' be
set to music ? Or conceive how the blessed sunlight, as it plays hide
and seek among the shadows, or maps surrounding forms upou
our path, or gilds the mossy trunks of stately trees, can be painted?
And supposing it more than possible that the height, and dejjth,
and breadth of the many time-cut furrows upon and in the
grand old face of one of these mountain walls were accurately
determined, could the exact shade of purple, or giaj', or golden,
or roseate haze, that is ever sleeping among its wrinkles or bur
nishing up its ridges, be faithfully portrayed ? No, Mr. Gradgrind,
you are, at best, compelled to "stick to facts," and leave individ
ual apprehension, good taste, and imagination to supply the rest.
To present such facts concerning Yo Semite, and other sub
lime fastnesses of the High Sierra, as it is hoped will be wel
come to the reader, will bo the devoted purpose of each subse
quent chapter of this book.

CHAPTER II.
CAUSES LEADING TO ITS DISCOVEKY.
I am not covetous for gold;
Nor care I who doth feed upo.i my cost;
It yearns me not if men my garments wear;
Such outward things dwell not in my desires;
But if it be a sin to covet honor
I am the most oflfending soul alive.
— Shake.spear'.s Henry V., Act IV.
Tender-handed stroke a nettle.
And it stings you lor your pains;
Grasp it like a man of mettle,
And it soft as silk remains.
— Aaron Hill, written npon a window in Scotland.
After the discovery of gold at Sutter's saw-mill, Coloma,
California, January 19, 1848, by James W. Marshall — who died,
poor, August 10th, 1885, at the age of 73 years — and the
news of that auspicious event had winged its electrifying flight
to the farthest corner of the civilized world, men, filled with
ambitious hopes and yearnings, began to flock towards the new
El Dorado from every clime and country. The beautiful and
land-locked Bay of San Francisco was soon plowed by the prows
of vessels of every class and tonnage, and its recently uneventful
calm broken by the health-giving breezes of a new and vigorous
commercial activity. "Awake but one, and lo! what myriads rise!
Each stamps its image as the other flies! "
The streets of the sleeping pueblo of San Francisco, filled by the
in-flowing tide of humanity thus attracted, awoke it at once to
a business energy that eventually grew into a habit, and laid the
foundation of its present commercial prosperity.
(22)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 23
Feverish with enlarged expectations, and eager to realize the
day-dreams of their susceptible imaginations, any and every kind
of conveyance, by water or by land, was pressed into immediate
service, for speeding them to the gold mines. Discomfort, ex
posure, pleasure postponed, disappointment, suffering, danger, and
possible sickness or prospective death, held them in no restraint ;
like the proverbial youth who had heard in his native village
that the streets of a certain city were paved with gold, would
give himself nc) rest, either day or night, until it could be reached,
and "a hat full of it " obtained.
Beguiled by this fascination, that became almost an infatua
tion, side-hills and flats, ravines and gulches, canons and rivers,
threading far among the spurs of the Sierras, became familiar to
the footsteps of the dauntless prospector. Unbroken solitudes,
untrodden fastnesses, far from civilized habitation or human
succor, created in him no sense- of fear, or thought of peril. The
occasional sight of Indians, whether singly or in groups, evoked
no surprise, invited no uneasiness, and elicited no suspicion. A
casual, perhaps an inquisitive glance, might occasionally be
thrown over the shoulder of the one to the other in indifferent
recognition as they passeil ; but that was in no way to be inter
preted as unfriendly. In time, presents of food and cast-off
garments apparently became
CONNECTING LINKS OF KINDNESS
Between civilized and savage, and seemingly bound their common
interests closer together. The absence even of grunted gratitude
for favors received, excited no comment, and quickened no resent
ment. Civilities and gratuities imperceptibly indicated the open
ing of a broader pathway to mutual confidences and concessions
between whites and Indians, that left no doubt of ultimate har
monious concert of action. Meanwhile,
"The greatest of the angels of men — Success" —
Had crowned the gold miner's efforts in unearthing the precious
metal. This attracted a rapidly increasing multitude of devotees

24 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
to its captivating standard; and men poured in from every quar
ter, to enlist under its enchanting banner, and in full chorus
to sing around their camp-fires: —
" 'Tis time the pick-axe and the spade.
Against the rocks were ringing,
And with ourselves the golden stream
A song of labor singing;
The mountain sod our couch at night;
The stars keep watch above us;
We think of home, and fall asleep —
To dream of those who love us."
The good fortune and wants of the miner developed the
necessity for the packer and trader, with their assistants ; and, as a
sequence, kept constantly swelling the army of occupation in the
very haunts and homes of the Indian; and without invitation
divided with him his hunting and fishing grounds. Tents pitched
and cabins erected, became sufficient foundation for the impres
sion that the new-comers were intending permanently to stay.
There seems to have been no expressed or implied objections to
this. The Indian men, moreover, had been pressed into willing
service as miners and laborers, and the women to laundry work
—for which, in many instances, they were liberally paid. All of'
these very naturallj' gave color to the assurance that a mutually
advantageous community of interests had sprung up that was as
gratifying as it was profitable. But these eventually proved to
be THE LULL BEFORE THE STORM.
The rapid increase of horses, njules, and cattle — as well as
men — presented visible evidences of accumulating prosperity and
wealth among the whites, that were unshared by the Indian.
This soon bore the poisonous fruit of jealousy. Germs of unrest
and discontent quickly ripened into resentment; and, with
stealthy growth, hatred for the whites and cupidity for their pos
sessions began, irrepressibly, to extend to every mountain tribe
throughout the State, and prepare the way for openlj' hostile
demonstrations. It is however but

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY 25
AX ACT OF SIMPLE JUSTICE
To the Indian, here to record — without in any measure attempt
ing to apologize for, or condone, his misdeeds — that the spirit of
reciprocal fairness was not an invariable characteristic of the
whites, in their dealings and conduct with the inferior race.
Every old Californian can bear blushing testimony to the truth
fulness of this, too self-evident admission. This will ba more
than manifest from the official report of Maj. Gen. Thomas J.
Green, t) Gov. Peter H. Burnett, dated May 25, 1850,* as follows:
"Heretofore a few persons have monopolized much of their labor,
by giving them a calico shirt per week, and the most indifferent
of food." Brig. Gen. Thoraas B. Eastland, in his report to his
excellency Governor Burnett, dated June 15, 1850, f thus con
tinues: " It is a well-known fact that among our white popula
tion there are men who boast of the number of the Indians they
have killed, and that not one shall escape." If, therefore,
"In men we various Ruling Passions find.
And Ruling Passion conquers Reason still,"
No spirit of prophetic divination need be evoked, to foretell the
ultimate results of such aggressive wrong-doing. Before pouring
unmixed anathemas, therefore, upon the Indian's head, will not an
intuitive sense of right first prompt us to
" Find out the cause of this effect;
Or, rather say, the cause of this defect;
For this effect defective comes by cause. "
TELEGRAPHING BY FIRE AND SMOKE.
In the days of th'eir numerical [)rosperity, moreover, it should
I)e remembered that the Indians thoroughly understood and
practiced a primitive method of telegraphing by fire and smoke,
by which the fitful flashes of the one, and the gusty clouds of
the other.J according to the number or intensity of the signals
*See page 769 of Journals of the Legislature of California, for IS51.
tPage 770, Ibid.
JThis was done by covering a large fire with a wet hide, and lifting it at
intervals.

26 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
given, would readily communicate the kind of trouble they were
in, and the nature of the assistance they required. All prominent
peaks, and favorable points of bluffs on the margin of valleys,
were signal stations; and there was always a signal watcher on
duty, both by day and by night. To this was supplemented a very
EFFICIENT SYSTEM OF RUNNERS,
Composed of their best-trained, swiftest-footed, and strongest-
lunged young men, who would run at the height of their speed
from one village to the other. These advantages naturally and
effectively supplied speedy tribal communication, and enabled
them not only to discuss with each other the social or political
significance of such an unparalleled influx of strangers amongst
them, but to report every overt act or aggressive movement of
the whites, frora San Diego to Siskiyou.
ISOLATED INSTANCES OF INDIAN VIOLENCE
Had been early reported from central portions of the State, but
as these had been visited by swift retaliation, the impetuously
turbulent were, for the tirae being at least, checked in their
raarauding and raurderous career. Meanwhile the forces of their
enraity were silently curaulating, like a storm over an almost
cloudless sky, in the more southerly sections of California; event
ually to culminate and break among the gold mines of Maripo.sa
County — then very large, and embracing the counties now
known as Mariposa, Merced, Fresno, Tulare, Mono, and Inyo.
THE FIRST OPENLY HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION
Was led by the Yo Semites, in May, 1850, when an attack was
made upon the trading-post of Mr. James D. Savage, located on
the Merced River-, about twenty-five miles below the Yo Semite
Valley, under the pretense of claiming all the country in that
vicinity; but in reality in the expectation and hope of plunder.
By the personal pluck and energy of Savage, assisted by his
Indian miners, the attack was successfully repidsed.
The isolation of that station, and the known murderous

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 27
tendencies of the Yo Semites, induced Savage to remove his store
to Mariposa Creek, near Agua Fria, some six miles westerly of
the village, now the prosperous town and county seat, of Mariposa.
His unexarapled success in this new location tempted him to es
tablished a branch post on the Fresno River, which also gave
abundant promise of similar results. " In the midst of renewed
prosperity " — says Dr. L. H. Bunnell, in his interesting narrative
of "The Discovery of the Yosemite," from which I shall fre-
(^uently quote in introductory chapters, and to which I heartily
refer the reader — "he learned that
ANOTHER CLOUD WAS GATHERIXc;.
" To strengthen his influence over the principal tribes. Savage
had, according to the custom of many inountain men at that
time, taken wives from among the Indians, supposing that his
personal safety would be somewhat improved bj' so doing. This
is the old story of the pi'osperous Indian trader. One of his
squaws assured him that a combination was maturing among the
mountain Indians to kill or drive all the white men from the
country, and plunder them of their property." These unmistak
able evidences of threatened hostilities suggested the adoption of
precautionary nieasures, and preparation for warlike surprises,
without exciting suspicion or alarm. In the hope of averting
impending danger, SAVAGE QUIETLY PLANNED A COUP D'ETAT.
Having to visit San Francisco early Ln the ensuing Septem
ber (1850) for the purpose of securing a safe place of deposit for
his rapidly accuraulating quantities of gold-dust, extracted from
the mines b\' himself and his Indian assistants and receiveil
through his stores,* and also to purchase goods, he concluded to
*The amount, as given by reliable authority, was about six hundred pounds,
Troy. As an illustrative example of oue ot Savage's habits, aud an additional
proof of the old adage, "Easily earned— carelessly spent," aftarhis safe arrival in
San Francisco with his treasure, he sought the gaming-table, where he became a
heavy loser; as though reckless of consequences, he jumped upon the card table,
and, standing upon a particular card, wagered his own weight in gold-dust on that
card — and lost!

28 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
take with hira two of his Indian wives,and an influential Indian
chief named Jose Juarez,* that by showing thein the overwhelm
ing numbers and resources of the whites, he could impress upon
them, and through them all the unfriendly disposed, the utter
hopelessness of any bellicose movements on their part. This
skillfully-planned stratagem, although substantially carried out
by Savage, was NOT FRUITFUL IN RESULTS,
Inasmuch as Jose, having been liberally supplied with money by
his generous patron, invested it as liberally in "fire water;" and,
under its influence, becarae either stupidly unconscious or insult
ingly abusive. Remonstrance only stiraulated a more emphatic
indulgence in that graceless vice. When forbearance had ceased
to be a virtue, and the wanton gratification of insulting epithets
had reached their climax, in an unguarded moment. Savage felled
hiui with a blow. This invited, and probably deserved punish
ment, was a source of constant sui sequent regret; but, as
tbe journej' homeward developed no signs of any vengeful re
membrances, it was hoped that the unpleasant incident had been
either overlooked or excused. Therefbre, nothing doubting in
that, or in the happy results of Jose's visit to the larger cities, as
numerous Indians had collected around his Fresno store, seem
ingly to welcome them on their arrival, and to compare notes,
and learn or tell the news. Savage concluded this to be
A FITTING OPPORTUNITY FOR A TALK
About the sights they had seen, with a view of conciliating
their prejudices— if any still existed — and convincing their judg
ments of the relative advantages that would naturally arise frora
a good understanding between the whites and the Indians. Alter
presenting the case in a strikingly terse and forcible manner.
Savage called upon Jose to bear testimony to the truthfulness of
his explanations, and the undoubted strength of his arguments.
To his surprise, however, " The cunning chief with much dignity"
*A name probably given him at one of the old missions.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 2»
— I again quote from Doctor Bunnell — " deliberatively stepped
forward, with more assurance than he had shown since the bellig
erent occurrence at San Francisco, and spoke with more energy
than Savage had anticipated, as follows : —
JOSE JUAREZ, THE INDIAN CHIEF, MAKES A SPEECH.
" ' Our brother has told his Indian relatives rauch that is true ;
we have seen many people; the white men are very numerous;
but the white men we saw are of many tribes; they are not like
the tribe that digs gold in the mountains. They will not help
the gold-diggers, if the Indians make war against them. If the
gold-diggers go to the white tribes in the big village they give
their gold for strong water, and games; when they have no more
gold the white tribes drive the gold-diggers back to the moun
tains with clubs. They strike. them down ' (referring to the police)
'as your white relative struck me when I was with him.' (His
vindicative glance assured Savage that the blow was not forgot
ten or forgiven.) ' The white tribes will not go to war with the
Indians in the mountains. They cannot bring their big ships
and big guns to us; we have no cause to fear them. They will
not injure us.' "
This was followed by a glowingly humorous and sarcastic
picture of the pale faces, their tall hats, walking canes, eye
glasses, fancy clothes, and other supposed frivolous articles of the
toilet; and the manners and customs of white people in large
cities were so grotesquely mimicked that he frequently convulsed
his Indian auditors with laughter, broken occasionally with gut
tural utterances of contempt.
No replying arguments of Savage, filled to overflowing as
they were with kindness and conimon sense, could counteract the
magical effects of such a speech. But, fearing that they might,.
Jose again stepped forward, and
BREATHING DEFIANCE, EXCITEDLY INTERRUPTED SAVAGE
B^' exclaiming,* "He is telling you words that are not true.
*Dr. L. H. Bunnell.

30 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
His tongue is forked and crooked. He is telling lies to his Indian
relatives. This trader is not a friend to the Indians. He is not
our brother. He will help the white gold-diggers to diive the
Indians from their country. We can now^ drive them from
among us; and if theother white tribes should-come to their help,
we will go to the mountains ; if they follow us they cannot find
us; none of them will come back; we will kill thera with arrows
and with rocks.'". These war-like utterances of Jose Juarez
were warmly seconded by
JOSE REY, THE LEADING CHIEF OF THE CHOW-CHILLAS,
In the following speech, also reported by Dr. Bunnell: " My people
are now ready to begin a war against the white gold-diggers.
If all the tribes will be as one tribe, and join with us, we will
drive all the white men from our mountains. If all the tribes
will go together, the white men will run fiom us, and leave their
property behind them. The tribes who join in with my people
will be the first to secure the property of the gold-diggers."
" The dignified and eloquent style of Jose Rey," continues
Dr. Bunnell, " controlled the attention of the Indians. This
appeal to their cupidity interested them; a common desire for
plunder would be the strongest inducements to unite against the
whites. Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated
at the impromptu council he had himself organized, and at once
withdrew to prepare lor the hostilities he was sure would follow.
As soon as the Indians dispersed, he started with his squaws for
home, and again gave the settlers warning of what was threat
ened, and would soon be attempted.
" These occurrences were narrated to me by Savage. The
incidents of the council at the Fresno Station were given during
the familiar conversations of our intimate acjquaintanceship. The
Indian speeches here quoted are, like all others of their kind,
really but poor imitations. The Indian is very figurative in his
language. If a literal translation were atterapted, his speeches
would seem so disjointed and inverted in their methods of
expression that their signification could scarcely be understood ;
hence only the substance is here given."

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 31
UNHEEDED WARNINGS.
It would seem that, notwithstanding the warnings given, the
miners and settlers were unwilling to concede that an Indian war
was possible, even with such conclusive evidence
"To mark the signs of coming mischief,"
As they were deemed as absurd as they were iraprobable. Even
Cassady, a rival trader to Savage, " especially scoffed at the idea
of danger, and took no precautions to guard himself or his
establishment " — and was afterwards among the first murdered.
In their minds there evidently lingered a doubt, and perhaps
with it a mental questioning whether or not
"The chance of war
Is equal, and the slayer oft is slain,"
As active hostilities did not. actually comraence until the middle
of Deceraber following. This will be apparent from an official
letter by Col. Adam Johnston, sub. Indian Agent of the United
States, under Gen. John Wilson, and addressed to His Excel
lency, Peter H. Burnett, then Governor of California; and as it
is not only an interesting narrative, but lucidly explanatory, it is
here transcribed. COL. ADAM JOHNSTON'S LETTEE.
San Jose, January 2, 1851.*
Sir: I have the honor to submit to you, as the Executive of the State
of California, some facts connected with the recent depredations committed
by the Indians, within the bounds of the State, upon the persons and prop
erty of Jier citizens. The immediate scenes of their hostile movements
are at and in the vicinity of the Mariposa and Fresno. The Indians in
that portion of your State have, for some time past, exhibited disaffection
and a restless feeling toward the whites. Thefts were continually being
perpetrated by them, but no act of hostility had been committed by them
on the person of any individual, which indicated general enmity on the
part of the Indians, until the night of the 17 December last. I was then at
the camp of Mr. James D. Savage, on the Mariposa, where I had gone for
the purpose of reconciling any difficulty that might exist between the
*See Joumals of the Legislature of California for 1851, page 563.

32 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Indians and the whites in that vicinity. From various conversations which
1 had held with different chiefs, I coiicluded there was no immediate dan
ger to be apprehended. On the evening of the 17th of December, we were,
however, surprised by the sudden disappearance of the Indians. They left
in a body, but no one knew why, or where they had gone. From the fact
that Mr. Savage's domestic Indians had forsaken him and gone with those
of the rancheria, or village, he immediately suspected that something of
a serious nature was in contemplation, or had already been committed by
them. The manner of their leaving, in the night, and by stealth, induced
Mr. Savage to believe that whatever act they had committed or intended
to commit, might be connected with himself. Believing that he could
overhaul his Indians befbre others could join them, and defeat any con
templated depredation on their part, he, with sixteen men, started in
pursuit. He continued upon their traces for about thirty miles, when he
came upon their encampment. The Indians had discovered his approach
and fled to an adjacent mountain, leaving behind them two .small boys
asleep, and the remains of an aged female, who had died, no doubt from
fatigue. Xear to the encampment Mr. Savage ascended a mountain in
pursuit of the Indians, from which he discovered them upon another
mountain at some distance. From these two inountain tops, conversation
was commenced and kept up for some time between Mr. Savage and the
chief, who told him they had murdered the men on the Fresno, and robbed
the camp. The chief had formerly been on the most friendly terms with
Siivage, but would not now permit him to approach him. Savage said to
them it would be better for them to return to their villages — that with
very little labor daily they could procure sufficient gold to purchase them
clothing and food. To this the chief replied it was a hard way to get a
living, and that they could more easily supply their wants by stealing
from the whites. He also said tu Savage he must not deceive the whites
by telling them lies, he must not tell them that the Indians were friendly,
they were not, but on the contrary were their deadly enemies, and that
thoy intended killing and plundering them so long as a white face was
seen in the country. Finding all efibrts to induce them to return, or to
otherwise reach them, had failed, Mr. Savage and his company concluded
to return. "When about leaving, they discovered a body of Indians, num
bering about two hundred, on a distant mountain, who seemed to be
approaching those with whom he had been talking.
Mr. Savage and company arrived at his camp in the night of Thursday ,
in safety. In the meantime as news had reached us of murders com
mitted on the Fiesno, we had determined to proceed tothe Fresno, where
the men had been murdered. Accordingly, on the day following, Friday,

Photo, by Geo. Fis k<\

Photo-typo hy Britton & A'c.v. Ji". /¦'.

Glimpse of Yosemite Yhlley, from Big Okk Flkt Rohd.

(See page 335.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 33
the 20th, I left the Mariposa camp, with thirty-five men, for the camp on
the Fresno, to see the situation of things there, and to bury the dead. I
also dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other mining
sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue
the Indians into the mountains. Several small companies of men left
their respective places of residence to join us, but being unacquainted with
the country, they were unable to meet us. We reached the camp on the
Fresno a short time after daylight. It jiresented a horrid scene of savage
cruelty. The Indians had destroyed everything they could not use, or
carry with them. The store was stripped of blankets, clothintr. flour, and
everything of value; the safe was broken open and rifled of its contents;
the cattle, horses, and mules had been run into the mountains; the mur
dered men had been stripped of their clothing, and lay before us filled
with arrows; one of them had yet twenty perfect arrows sticking in him.
A grave was prepared, and the unfortunate persons interred. Our force
being small, we thought it not prudent to pursue the Indians further into
the mountains, and determined to return. The Indians in that part of
the country are quite numerous, and have been uniting other tribes with
them for some time. On reaching our camp on the Mariposa, we learned
that most of the Indians in the valley had left their villages and taken
their women and children to the mountains. This is generally looked
upon as a sure indication of their hostile intentions. It is feared that
many of the miners in the more remote regions have already been cut off,
and Agua Fria and Mariposa are hourly threatened.
Under this state of things, I come here at the earnest solicitations of
the people of that region, to ask such aid from the State Government as
will enable them to protect their persons and property.
I submit these facts for your consideration, and have the honor to
remain. Yours very respectfully,
To Hia Excellency, Adam Johnston.
Peter H. Burnett.
SAD EXPERIENCES AT SAVAGE'S FRESNO STORE.
Upon the morning above mentioned in Colonel Johnston's
letter, according to the testimony of Mr. Brown, the only survivor
of the massacre, straggling groups of Indians, unattended by
women and children, contrary to usual custom when on a peaceful
mission, coramenced wending their way, saunteringly , from different
directions, towards Savage's store upon the Fresno. They entered
it in their ordinary listless manner, as though for purposes of
3

34 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
trade ; but, when within it, by some evidently preconcerted plan
of attack, they sprang simultaneously forward, and with hatchets,
axes, crow-bars, and bows and arrows, first murdered Mr. Greeley,
who was in charge of the store; then, turning upon the three
other white men there present, named Canada, Stiffner, and
Brown, killed all except the latter, whose life was saved by an
Indian named Polonio,* to whom Brown had shown favors, jump
ing in between him and the attacking party, at the risk of his
own personal safety, thus afifording Brown the chance of escape,
of which he confesses to have raade the best use, by running all
the way to Quartzburg at the top of his speed. Thereafter horses,
raules, and cattle belonging to the whites, began to disappear,
cabins were broken open and despoiled in the absence of their
owners; solitary prospectors were w^aylaid, robbed, and murdered;
isolated settlers, and secluded miners delving in some far off and
shadowy canon, unsuspicious of active race antagonisms, were
sought out, overpowered, and slaughtered in cold blood. The per
petrators of these satanic crimes, going undetected and unpun
ished, for a time reveled in a frenzy of diabolical excesses.
savage's OTHER STORE PILLAGED AND DESTROYED.
Simultaneously with these outrages. Savage's other store and
residence on the Mariposa, after the sudden disappearance of the
resident Indians, as given in Colonel Johnston's letter, were
attacked, during the absence of the proprietor, and everything
stolen. Similar onslaughts having been made at various points
on the Merced, San Joaquin, Fresno, and Chow-chilla Rivers, it
became too painfully evident that a general Indian war was
being forced upon the whites.
MAJOR BURNEY AND JAMES D. SAVAGE RAISE A COMPANY.
In this eraergency Maj. James Burney, Sheriff of Mariposa
County, and Mr. James D. Savage, the trader, with other prom
inent citizens, immediately commenced to raise a company of
volunteers, and at once led it into active and efficient .service.
*So christened by the whites probably from some peculiar characteristic of his.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 35
As experiences of this courageous little band are graphically told by
Major Burney, in a letter to His Excellency, John McDougal,
Governor of the State, and emphatically certified to and indorsed
by Hon. J. M. Bondurant, County Judge, and Richard H. Daly,
County Attorney, no apology will be necessary for introducing it
entire, from the Legislative Journals of California for 18.51.
.-MAJOR burney's letter TO GOVERNOR MCDOUGAL.
Agua Fria, January 13, 1851.
Sir: Your Excellency has doubtlessly been informed by iir. John
ston,* and others, of repeated and aggravated depredations of the Indians
in this part of the State. Their more recent outrages you are probably
not aware of. Since the departure of Mr. Johnston, the Indian Agent,
they have killed a portion of the citizens on the head of the San Joaquin
River, driven the balance off, taken away all the movable property, and
destroyed all they could not take away. They have invariably murdered
and robbed all the small parties they fell in with between here and the
San Joaquin. Kews came here last night that seventy-two men were
killed on Rattlesnake Creek; several men have been killed in Bear Valley.
The Fine Gold Gulch has been deserted, and the men came iu here yes
terday. Nearly all the mules and horses in this part of the State have
been stolen, both from the mines and the ranches. And 1 now in the name
of the people of this part of the State, and for the good of our country,
appeal to Your Excellency for assistance.
In order to show Your Excellency that the people have done all that
they can do to suppress these things, to secure quiet and safety in the
possession of our property and lives. I will make a brief statement of what
has been done here: —
After the massacres on the Fresno, San Joaquin, etc., we endeavored
to raise a volunteer company to drive the Indians back, if not to take
them or force them into measures. The different squads from the various
places rendezvoused not far from this place on Monday, 6th [December,
1850], and numbered but seventy-four men. A company was formed,
and I was elected Captain; J. W. Riley, First Lieutenant; E. Skeane,
Second Lieutenant. We had but eight days' provisions, and not enough
animals to pack our provisions and blankets, as it should have been done.
We, however, marched, and on the following day struck a large trail of
horses that had been stolen by the Indians.t 1 sent forward James D.
*Col. Adam Johnston.
+ln a subsequent letter of ilajor Burney, addressed to the Hon. W. J. How
ard, occurs the foUowing passage:—

3G IN THE HEART OF TIIE SIERRAS.
Savage, with a small spy force, and I followed the trail with m.y company.
About two o'clock in the morning. Savage came in and reported the
village near, as he had heard the Indians singing. Here I halted, left a
small guard with my animals, and went forward wdth the balance of my
men. We reached the village just before day, and at dawn, but before
there was light enough to see how to flre our rifles wdth accuracy, we were
discovered by their sentinel. When I saw that he had seen us, I ordered
achargeon the village (this hadbeen reconnoitered by Savage and myself).
The Indian sentinel and my company got to the village at the same time,
he yelling to give the alarm. 1 ordered them to surrender; some of them
ran off, some seemed disposed to surrender, but others flred on us; we fired,
and charged into the village. Their ground had been selected on account
of the advantages it possessed in their mode of warfare. They num
bered about 400, and fought us three hours and a half. We killed from
40 to 50, but cannot tell exactly how many, as they took off all they
could get to. Twenty-six were killed in and around the village, and
a number of others in the chaparral. We burned the village and
provisions, and took four horses. Our loss was six wounded, two mor
tally; one of the latter was Lieutenant Skeane, the other a Mr. Little,
whose bravery and conduct through the battle cannot be spoken of too
highly. AVe made litters, on which we conveyed our wounded, and had to
march four miies down the mountain, to a suitable placebo camp, the
Indians firing at us all the way, from the peaks on either side, but so far
off as to do little damage. My men had been marching or flghting from
the morning of the day before, without sleep, and with but little to eat.
On the plain, at the foot of the mountain, we made a rude, but substantial
fortiflcation; and at a late hour those who were not on guard were per
mitted to sleep. Our sentinels were (as I anticipated they would be)
firing at the Indians occasionally all night, but I had ordered them not to
come in until they were driven in.
I left my wounded men there, with enough of my company to defend
the little fort, and returned to this place for provisions and recruits. I send
them to-day reinforcements and provisions, and in two days more I march
by another route, with another reinforcement, and intend to attack
another village before going to the fort. The Indians are watching the
"The first night out you came into my camp and reported that the Indians had
stolen all your horses and mules — a very large number — that you had followed
their trail iuto the hill country, but, deeming it imprudent to go there alone, had
turned northward, hoping to strike my trail, having heard that I had gone out
after Indians. I immediately, at sunset, sent ten men (yourself among the num
ber) under Lieutenant Skeane — who was killed in the light next day — to look out
for the trail, and report, whieh was very promptly carried out.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 37
movements at the fort, and I can come up in the rear of them unsuspect-
edly, and we can keep them back until I can hear from Your Excellency.
If Your Excellency thinks proper to authorize me or any other person
to keep this company together, we can force them into measures in a short
time. But if not authorized and commbssioned to do so, and furnished
with some arms and provisions, or the means to buy them, and pay for the
services of the. men, my company must be disbanded, as they are not
able to lose so much time without any compensation.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, James Burney.
the first conflict almost a defeat.
This battle took place on the upper waters of the Fresno, and
notwithstanding the measurable success of this hastily planned
and impetuous attack, there is reason to fear that, owing to
the absence of efficient discipline and drill, in so rapidly mustered
a company of volunteers, but for the' dauntless pluck and daring
of this heroic band, it would have been a defeat. Nothing but
reckless personal exposure, and hand-to-hand conflict, eventually
brought a partial victory. After the conflict they were abun
dantly willing to retire to camp for rest, council, reorganization,
and future discipline ; and the experience gained proved to be of
inestimable value in the future conduct of the war.
GOVERNOR MCDOUGAL'S PROMPT RESPONSE.
From apparently sympathetic anticipation of the sentiments
and wants expressed in Major Burney's manly letter. His Excel
lency, Governor McDougal (having through Col. Adam Johnston's
oflicial communication, and other sources, already received infor
raation of the struggle progressing in Mariposa County) had issued
an order — by a singular coincidence bearing exactly the same date,
January 13, I85I,* as Major Burney's letter— authorizing tho
Sheriflf of Mariposa County to call out one hundred able-bodied
militia, with which to meet the pressing exigencies of the times,
and teach the Indians that, while the whites could be considerate
of their interests in times of peace, they were prepared at all
*See Joumals of the Legislature of California for 1851, page 600.

38 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
hazards to assert and raaintain their rights the raoment that war
was forced upon thera.
To this prompt and considerate action was supplemented an
appealing message from Governor McDougal to the State Legisla
ture, then in session, calling upon it for means to meet such press
ing eraergencies ; a communication addressed to the Indian Com
missioners, appointed by thu General Government for co-operation ;
and to Gen. Persifer F. Smith, commanding Pacific Division of
the United States Army, inforraing hira of the Indian disturbances,
of his official orders calling out two hundred able-bodied militia,
and asking hira what aid might be expected from his department,
the number of effective troops to be relied on, whether there could
be furnished arms and ammunition to volunteers, and if so the
character and number of arms and ammunition, and concluding
with the question, " Will you deem it advisable to co-operate in the
present emergency? "*
Without awaiting a reply frora Gen. P. F. Sraith, such was
the anxiety of the Governor lest any omission on his part should
cause an unnecessary sacrifice of human life and property, he dis
patched Col. J. Neely Johnson, an oflJcer of his staff", to the United
States Indian Commissioners, Messi-s. Wozencraft, McKee, and
Barbour, with offers of safe-conduct to the scene of the disturb
ances, accorapanied with the assurance that "Colonel Johnson
will afford you every facility in his power to co-operate with you
in all nieasures necessary to insure a return of those friendly
feelings which are so desirable to us, and so essential to the happi
ness of both whites and Indians." Too much commendation of
Governor McDougal 's praiseworthy and intelligent assiduity can
not well be accorded him, not only for his unwearying watchful
ness, but for providing the "sinews of war," as well as for his
continuous efforts to establish an early and enduring peace.
The Governor's offer was cordially accepted by the United
*To this inquiry there seems to have been no response published— at least
none can be found by the writer. It is however matter of record that the State
assumed the responsibility for the disbursements of this war, but the expenses
were afterwards allowed by the United States Govermnent

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 39
States Indian Commissioners, who, under the escort of Col. J,
Neely Johnson and a small body of Stato trocjps, as related else
where, set out on their peaceful mission as soon as possible, after
securing the services of some friendly raission Indians, as inter
preters and messengers, and the providing of suitable presents and
supplies. While they are repairing thither, let us return, at least
in imagination, to the camp of the volunteers.
In the interim of Major Burney's absence at the settlements,
for munitions and retinforcements, no time was lost by the little
corps leinaining at their post among the Indians, in drilling,
reorganizing, and otherwise preparing for future contact with
the foe. Growing tired, howevei', of the commonplace inactivities
of camp life, and longing for the excitements attendant on an
encounter with the enemy, but a few restful days were allowed
to pass before they were again upon the march.
The Indian trail was soon stiuck, and upon the top of a
rugged knoll, near the north fork of the San Joaquin River, sur
rounded by a dense undergrowth of shrubbery, among rocks and
trees, they found the adversai-y in force, apparently numbering
about five hundred. Defiant taunts of their late defeat, intermixed
with sneering accusations of cowai'dice, were menacingly hurled
at the whites ; and the Indians even boasted of their robl >eries and
murders, and challenged Savage, who was then in command, to
come up and fight them. But as it was late in the day when the
Indians were discovered, and feeling, with Shakespeare, that
" The better part of valor is discretion,"
Instead of commencing an immediate attack, a careful reconnois
sance was raade before nightfall, and the assault postponed.
Almost before morning light revealed the position of their
antagonists, thirty-six men were detached for preliminary opera
tions, under Captain Kuykendall, to be followed by the reserves,
under Major Savage and Captain Boling — and fortunately the
Indian camp Avas reached by Kuykendall's command without dis
covery. Dashing into their midst, and seizing lighted brands
from their own camp-fires, the wigwams were set on fire, and, by

40 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
their light, they attacked the now alarmed carap. So rapidly
and so bravely were the charges made that the panic-stricken
warriors fied precipitately frora their stronghold. " Jose Rej' was
araong the first shot down," says Dr. Bunnell. "The Indians
raade a rally to recover their leader ; Lieutenant Chandler, observ
ing them, shouted, ' Charge, boys ! Charge 1 ! ' when the men rushed
forward, and the savages turned and fled down the raountain,
answering back the shout of Chandler to charge by replying,
' Chargee ! Chargee !' as they disappeared. The whole camp was
routed, and sought safety among the rocks and brush, and by
flight. This was an unexpected result. The whole transaction
had been so quickly and recklessly done that the reserves under
Boling and Savage had no opportunity of participating in the
assault, and but imperfectly witnessed the scattering of the terrified
warriors. Kuykendall, especially, displayed a coolness and valor
entitling hira to command — though outrun by Chandler in the
assault. The fire frora the burning village spread so rapidly down
the raountain side towards our camp as to endanger its safety.
While the whites were saving their camp supplies, the Indians,
under cover of the smoke, escaped. No prisoners were taken;
twenty-three were killed ; the nuniber wounded was never known.
Of the settlers but one was really wounded, though .several were
scorched and bruised in the fight. None were killed. The scatter
ing flight of the Indians made further pursuit uncertain. Sup
plies being too limited for an extended chase, as none had reached
the little array from those who had returned, and time would be
lost in waiting, it was decided to go back to the settlements before
takmg further active raeasures. The return was accomplished
without interruption."
Their safe arrival home again was the spontaneous signal for
a general jubilee, intensified by the cheering intelligence of the com
plete victory won over the savages; and augraented, on the fol
lowing day, by the welcome tidings that the Governor's authority
had arrived to organize and equip a volunteer force against the
enemy.

CHAPTER III.
HOW AND WHEN DISCOVERED.
Ill news is winged with fate, and flies apace.

-Deyden.

Over all things brooding slept
The quiet sense of something lost. — Tennvson-'s In Menwriam.
Peace hath higher tests of manhoo 1
Than battle ever knew. — Whittier's Tlu- Hero.
Intelligence of the utter discomfiture of so large a force of
their best warriors and ablest chiefs, by "a mere handful" of
white men, fiew with inexpressible rapidity to all the disaffected
Indians ; and, with the news, carried dismay and sadness to many
hearts : not, however, to accelerate their conversion to honest traits,
or peaceful paths. Memories of the rich harvests of booty and of
pillage, so recently gathered through spoliation and carnage, still
held them in irresistible bondage. Wrong-doing, therefore, to
them was only a question of convenience and opportunity. It is
true their recent and terrible disasters became forcibly suggestive
of others still in reserve, should they defiantly persist in repeating
their marauding and murderous exploits. The teraporary with
drawal of the whites frora further present pursuit, while it gave
the Indians favorable opportunity for binding up their wounds,
and for recuperating their wasted energies and lost courage, also
supplied them with leisure to brood over their losses, and to weigh
the contingent results, to themselves, of their flagitious courses.
Leaving them, therefore, to their self -criminating refiections, it
may not beinopportune, at this juncture, to recur to the protective
measures in active preparation at the settlements.
While the volunteers were enjoying the sweet repose that
(41)

42 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
generally follows successful physical and mental labor, and in
their case its attendant convivialities, a new exciteraent made its
advent among them, and carae almost like an inspiration or rev
elation; it was an order from His Excellency, Gov. John Mc
Dougal, bearing date January 13, 1851, to Maj. James Burney,
Sheriff of Mariposa County, to enlist one hundred raen, w-hich;
by a subsequent order of January 24, 1851, was increased to
A CALL FOR TWO HUNDRED ABLE-BODIED MILITIA,
" And to organize them at the earliest practicable moment into
independent companies, not to exceeii four; and, under officers of
their own selection, to proceed at once to punish the offending
tril)es."* This inspiriting mandate was not only a recognition
and indorsement of the past, but an encouraging augury for the
future, to tho.se who had so recently borne the brunt of victorious
battle with the foe; and became a strong incentive for their
himiediate re-enlistment. And it is but an act of well-merited
honor to those brave men here to make emphatic declaration, that
much of the success attending the rapid mustering into service of
the required quota, was largely attributable to the chivalric zeal
and energy, of both officers and men, forming the pioneer com
pany of Mariposa volunteers.
FORMATION OF THE MARIPOSA BATTALION.
The full compleraent of volunteers authorized, nurabering
two hundred and four, rank and file, reported to Maj. James Bur
ney, at Savage's old store — then in partial ruins — near Agua
Fl-ia, February 10, 1851, equipped, mounted, and ready for service.
Here the Mariposa Battalion was organized. It was formed into
three corapanies: A, with seventy men; B, with seventy-two;
and C;, with fifty-five, exclusive of surgeons, quartermaster, etc.
When the time arrived for the election of officers Major
Burney, to whom the honor of commanding the battalion natu
rally belonged, magnanimously declined to lie a candidate, par-
* See .lournals of the California Legislature for 1851, page 670.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEV. 43
tially owing to the pressing duties of his office as Sheriff of so large
a county, but raainly for the puipise of insuring harmony, by
avoiding all jealous and ambitious livalries.
OFFICERS ELECTED TO COMMAND THE BATTALION.
in this emergency James D. Savage was elected Commander,
not only on account of his soldierly qualities, but for his knowl
edge of the habits, customs, haunts, and language of the Indians,
as well as of the country to be traA-eised. The following is the
muster-roll of the battalion: * Major, James D, Savage; Adjutant,
M. B. Lewis; Surgeon, Dr. A. Bronson, who afterwards resigned
and was succeeded by Dr. Lewis Leach; Assistant Surgeons,
Drs. Pfifer and Black ; Sergeant-Major, Robt. E. Russell. Cap
tains — Co. A, seventy men, John I. Kuykendall ; Co. B, .seventy-
two men, John Bowling; Co. C, fifty-five men, Williani Dill;
First Lieutenants, John I. Scott, Co. A; Reuben T. Chandler,
Co. B ; Hugh W. Ferrell, Co. C. Thus officered,
THE MARIPOSA BATTALION TOOK UP ITS LINE OF MAECH.
The troops supplied their own horses and equipraents, and the
State the provisions and baggage wagons. O-wing to the uncer
tainty of payraent at that early day, and other untoward circum
stances, almost fabulous prices were charged for articles purchased
in the mining districts.
A large grassy meadow, located on Mariposa Creek, some
fifteen railes below the village of Mariposa, was made the first
head-quarters of the battalion, where drilling, manfi-uvering, and
other preparatory exercises necessary for efficient military service.
Were duly put into practice. Occasional scouting parties would
sally out for short distances in search of the enemy, known to be
amazingly near, frora the numerous thefts committed in cattle
and hor.ses; but these seemed to have had no more decisive result
than the cultivation of watchfulness, and exercise, and the retire
ment of the Indians farther into the mountains. Meanwhile,
* " Elliott's History of Fresno County," pages 177, 178.

44 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
THE DAWN OF A NEW ERA WAS BREAKING.
While all these warlike tactics were progressing, potential
humanitarian influences were giving birth to a nobler policy than
a mere conflict of races, and one raore in consonance with the
enlightened spirit of the age. Communications, glistening with
enlarged views and generous irapulses on this question, began to
flow in a steady stream to the Executive, and from persons of
high official position, such as, for instance, that indicated m the
following extract from the
letter of gen. THOMAS B. EASTLAND.*
The Indians have been more "sinned against than sinning," since the
settling of California by the whites, is the opinion of many old inhabit
ants, as well as miners, who have lived in their midst, and watched the
rise and progress of the many disturbances that have occurred; they are
naturally inoffensive, and perhaps less warlike than any other tribes on
the continent; indeed, they have not even the resources necessary for
defense; the bow and arrow are their only arm; they are destitute of ani
mals even for transportation purposes; they have no means of support
within themselves, save the transitory fruits of the seasons, some few
esculent plants and acorns, the latter being garnered up for their winter
supplies, by which they must stay or starve; they are to a man, almost,
in a state of nature, without a single comfort in the wary of clothing, and
during the cold months huddle together in their holes, as their only pro
tection against the inclemency of the weather; in fact, all their habita
are peaceful, and in their whole character it is not discoverable that nat
uraUy they possess the first element of a warlike people; but the germ of
a hostile spirit has been created in them, that, without some prompt and
decisive action on the part of the General Government, will grow and
spread among them a deadly hate towards the whites, which erelong
may cause our frontier to be marked with lines of blood. If they are apt
scholars they will not only be taught how to fight, but in time will muster
many warriors, each with his firelock and butcher-knife, taken from the
bodies of murdered wdiite men.
I have the honor to be Your Excellency's obedient servant,
Thomas B. Eastland,
Brig. Gen. 1st. Division, Cal. Ma. comm'g.
Such well-timed and considerate sentiments carried with
* See Journals of the Legislature of California for 1851, page 770.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 45
them the force of conclusive argument, and gave full .strength to
the moulding of a more generous future for the campaign. At
this important juncture, such was Governor McDougal's anxiety
lest every possible contingency should not be anticipated and
provided for, that he invited earnest conferences with other State
officers, and with all the most influential members of both Senate
and Assembly, upon this all-absorbing question, regardless of any
political differences whatsoever. Moreover, upon the eve of
Colonel Johnson's departure. His Excellency issued the following
INSTRUCTIONS TO COL. J. NEELY JOHNSON.
San Jose,* January 25, 1851.
The force provided may or may not be sufficient; the difficulties of
communication with the scene of the disturbances are so great as to render
it almost if not quite impracticable to be perfectly advised of the exact
state of affairs. I am left, therefore, to act as the emergency seems to
require, and without that degree of particular and minute information so
important to the prompt and efficient suppression of Indian hostilities.
Such being the case, and being desirous to do all in my powcr to afford
our citizens protection in life and property, I have deemed it advisable to
dispatch an officer of the staff to the scene of disturbances, with the view
to ascertain, collect, and report all facts respecting them, which are or
may be required to direct intelligently the further operations of the
State authorities. You have been selected for this purpose.
You will proceed at once, and by the most expeditious route, to the
county of Mariposa, where you will communicate wdth the officer in com
mand of the forces which have been recently ordered out. If possible, let
the Indians be conciliated. Indian war is at all times to be deprecated,
but especially so by us now, in the infancy of our career as a State, and
before the General Government has provided us with the necessary means
of protection and defense. AVe are in no condition to be harassed by
expensive and protracted disturbances, which, when the best provision
has been made for them, prove seriously detrimental to the best interests
of the people among whom they exist. I cannot, therefore, too strongly
impress upon you, and through you upon our citizens, to avoid studiously
the commission of any act calculated to excite and exasperate unnecessa
rily the Indian tribes.
While the measures it may become necessary to adopt shall be firm,
• Then the seat ot State Government.

46 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
let them be tempered with kindness and forbearance, manifesting at all
times a disposition to restore relations of friendship, and perpetuate a
mutual good understanding. The great object is to effect apeaie with the
least bloodshed, and at the least expense, and no means should be left
untried to bring it about. In this connection I would suggest that, before
leaving San Francisco, an interview be had by you with the United
States Commissioners on this subject, who will, no doubt, cordially co
operate with you in whatever shall serve to effect an object so desirable.
You will also assure them that every facility wdthin your power will be
extended to them, in the execution of their mission; and for this purpose,
if they deem it necessary, you will order out such force as will securely
protect their persons and property. If the Indians are still found to be
obstinate and intractable after your endeavors, as well as the endeavors
and means used by the Commissioners, to bring about an amicable adjust
ment of the existing difficulties, it will then become your duty to decide
upon the line of offensive policy to be pursued. Where pacific measures
fail, a vigorous prosecution of the war is our most efficient remedy. As
before remarked, the force already ordered out may be sufiicient for all
purposes, but this is a matter which I have not the means of determining;
it must be left to your discretion and better judgment after you shall have
clearly ascertained, by personal observation, the actual exigency. Should
an emergency exist now, or arise hereafter, requiring an additional num
ber of troops, which will not admit of the delay necessary to communicate
with me, you are authorized to call out such additional numbers as may be
necessary. But it is to be hoped this will not be required; and unless
absolutely demanded by circumstances, of wdiich you must be the judge,
the call will not of course be made. We have every reason to believe
that as soon as at all practicable, the General Government will take steps
to afford us adequate protection; at present, however, efficient aid need
not be expected. There are but few United States troops in the State, and
those few are stationed at points distant from each other, and remote from
the scene of disturbances, requiring time to collect and fit them for
actual service; time, too, which may be all-important in speedily termi
nating our difhculties with the Indians, and thus saving many valuable
lives, as well as preserving much valuable property. . . . Further
advice, if it is deemed necessary, will be sent to you by express.
I have the honor to be, &c., John McDougal.
The tendency of these well-timed and comprehensive instruc
tions to Colonel Johnson gave assurance of a two-fold advantage:
first, in giving him the power to augraent the State forces com-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 47
mensurately with the strength developed by the enemy; and
second, in securing to the Indian Commissioners the ability to
compel obedience, should their pacific labors become ineffectual.
Conferences between the Governor of the State and the Indian
Commissioners sent out by the' General Government became both
frequent and effectual, and superinduced the adoption of a more
just and more benignant polic}^ toward the Indians. Finally, an
agreement was raade between the Executive of California, Gov
ernor McDougal, and the U. S. Indian Coraraissioners, Messrs.
Wozencraft, McKee, and Barbour, that the latter, in the interests
of huraanity, should take full coraraand of the State troops, then
in the field near Mariposa. Accordingly, instructions were dis
patched imraediately to Major Savage, informing him of this
arrangement, and ordering him to suspend all active hostile dem
onstrations against the enemy, until further directed.
Thus provided, therefore, against all possible contingencies,
the Coraraissioners lost no unnecessary time in making
SUITABLE preparations FOR THE COMING CAMPAIGN.
Stores of many kinds, adapted to Indian tastes and wants,
as well as to their own, had to be selected and dispatched. And,
for conferring more readily with the mountain tribes, the serv
ices of a few peaceful mission Indians were secured, as messengers
and interpreters, so that through these they could the more read
ily find access to the hearts and prejudices of the hostile Indians.
Much anxious care and intelligent inquiry were needed in this, to
insure such material as was best adapted to the work ; because
success or failure raight largely depend upon their efficiency and
adaptability to the important task. All things being in readiness,
the U. S. Indian Coraraissioners, under the escort of Colonel John
son, and a small detachraent of State troops, repaired as rapidly
as possible to the camp of the Mariposa Battalion.
After a cordial though informal welcome. Colonel Johnson
introduced himself, the Commissioners, and the subject in the
following explanatory

48 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
SPEECH TO THE MARIPOSA BATTALION.*
Soldiers and Gentlemen: Your operations as a military organiza
tion will henceforth be under the direction of the United States Commis-
.sioners. Under their orders you are now assigned to the duty of subduing
such Indian tribes as could not otherwise be induced to make treaties
with them, and at once cease hostilities and depredations. Your officers
will make all reports to the Commissioners. Your orders and instructions
will hereafter be issued by them. Your soldierly and manly appearance
is a sufficient guarantee that their orders wdll be conscientiously carried
out. While 1 do not hesitate to denounce the Indians for the murders
and robberies committed by them, we should not forget that there may
perhaps be circumstances which, if taken into consideration, might to
some extent excuse their hostility to the whites. They probably feel that
they themselves are the aggrieved party, looking upon us as trespassers
upon their territory, invaders of their country, and seeking to dispossess
them of their homes. It may be that they class us with the Spanish
invaders of Mexico and California, whose cruelties in civilizing and
Christianizing them are still traditionally fresh in their memories. Aa I
am soon to leave you 1 will now bid you "good-bye," with the hope that
your actions will be in harmony with the wishes of the Commissioners, and
that in the performance of your duties, you will in all cases observe mercy
where severity is not justly demanded.
PEACE MESSENGERS SENT TO THE INDIAN VILLAGES.
The mission Indians, so called, who acted so important a
part at this crisis in prelirainary peace negotiations, were those
who had been gathered into the fold of the Catholic Church, estab
lished by the Spanish raissionaries between the years 1768 and
1780, under the able leadership of Junipero Serra — who also dis
covered and naraed the bay of San Francisco, in October, 1769.
These Indians, under a rude kind of both religious and secular
civilization, having shared its advantages, had taken no part
whatsoever in the hostilities of the times. Many had formerly
belonged to the raountain tribes, and could speak their language,
yet had no sympathy with the hostiles. Among these there
seems to have been one named Russio, who was pre-eminently
qualified for the service of raessenger and interpreter; and who,
* Reported by Dr. L. H. Bunnell.

Photo, hy Taber.

Photo-typo hy Britton & Rey, S, f.
Ribbon Fhlls-Long-oo-too-koo-yhh .
(See page 39S.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 49
owing to his discriminating apprehension of the good intentions
and motives of the Commissioners, his superior intelligence, and
convincingly persuasive manners, became an invaluable auxiliary
in the establishment of peace relations.
With a less intelligent Indian named Sandino, and other
assistants, Russio set out for the nearest Indian villages, where,
by his graphic pictures of the invincible power of the whites, and
the utter folly of resisting and fighting them; the liberal supplies
of blankets, provisions, and ornaments for their women and chil
dren, to be most generously distributed among them; with
assurances of kindly treatment and protection, he induced raany
to visit the Commissioners, converse with them (through Russio),
and finally to accept the proflfered conditions. It is true some
-were very shy, and, being conscience-smitten for the culpable part
ihey had previously taken, were suspiciously doubtful of results ;
but the lavish distribution of presents, and the uniforra good
treatment received by those who had submitted, eventually
charmed others into satisfied acquiescence.
At this time the California Indians numbered, according to
Major Savage's representation,* as follows: San Joaquin River,
and its tributaries, 6,500; Tuolumne, 2,100; Merced, 4,800;
King's River, 2,000; Kern, 1,700; Tulare, 1,000; Umas, 5,000;
on the east side of the Sierra Nevada — embracing Owen's Lake
and River, Walker, Carson, and Truckee — 31,000; Klamath, Trin
idad, Sacramento, and branches, 30,000; Clear Lake, Trinidad
Bay, and Russian River, 6,000; making a total of 90,100. Of
these the San Joaquin, Tuolumne, Merced, King's, Kern, Tulare,
and Umas of Tulare Lake, numbering some 23,000, not only
sympathized with the hostile Indians, but, for the most part, took
active nieasures against the miners and settlers of Mariposa
¦County. Amonar the earliest arrivals was Kee-chee, whom Dr. Bun-
nell calls Vow-ches-ter, but whose Christian name, given him at
the missions probably, was Baptista, according to Dr. Wozen-
* " Elliott's History of Fresno County," page 181.
4

50 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
craft, one of the Indian Commissioners, and was pronounced
Beauteesta, who was the recognized leader of all the Mariposa
bands. Kee-chee had been generally friendly to the whites, but,
through the influence of Jose Rey, he had united his fortunes
with the unfriendly Indians. It is reasonably presumable, how
ever, to suppose, that the havoc raade araong his people, at almost
their first encounter, had not been without its irapressive lesson ;
inasrauch as, when assured of forgiveness, safety, and beneficent
treatraent, he not only subraitted willingly to the policy of the
Coraraissioners but promised to bring in as raany of his people as
he possibly could. But, according to Dr. Bunnell, when ques
tioned about the mountain Indians, he made answer: " The moun
tain tribes would not listen to any terras of peace involving the
abandonment of their territory ; that in the fight near the north
fork of the San Joaquin, Jose Rey had been badly wounded and
would probably die; that his tribe was very angry, and would
not make peace."
FIRST INTIMATIONS GIVEN OF THE EXISTENCE OF YO SEMITE.
Russio said:* " The Indians in the deep rocky valley on the
Merced River do not wish for peace, and will not come in to see
the chiefs sent by the great father to raake treaties. They think
the white men cannot find their hiding-places, and that therefore
they cannot be driven out ' " The other Indians of the party con
firmed Russio's statements. Vowchester [Kee-chee] was the
principal spokesman, and he said: "In this deep valley spoken of
by Russio, one Indian is more than ten white men. The hiding-
places are raany. They will throw rocks down on the white men,
if any should corae near them. The other tribes dare not make
war upon them, for they are lawless like the grizzlies, and as
strong. We are afraid to go to this valley, for there are many
witches there!"
In the earnest and hopeful expectation of peacefully gathering
in the disaffected tribes and perraanently providing for their com
fort and safety, the Indian Commissioners established
* Dr. Bunnell.

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 51
RESERVATION GROUNDS AND QUARTERS
On the Fresno River — a few miles easterly of where the present
town of Madera is situated, and now known as the Adobe Ranch,
owned by Mr. J. G. Stitt— to which all pacifically disposed Indians
could resort, and find shelter and protection. This became the
place of general rendezvous for both soldiers and Indians. Yet,
notwithstanding these tiraely and humane preparations, and their
acceptance by some, the many still hesitated, doubtingly, of the
ultimate intentions of the whites, and kept themselves hidden in
their silent retreats. The positive statements of Russio and Kee-
chee placed it beyond peradventure that the Yo Semites had not
abated their hostile feelings and determinations one iota ; to which
their failure in response to the raany invitations sent, became
additional proof.
Therefore, being weary with waiting, and annoyed constantly
with depredations coraraitted upon the cattle and horses of the
miners and .settlers, as well as those belonging to the command,
the Commissioners resolved upon aggressive movements, and
ordered THE BATTALION TO FORM INTO LINE.
This was delightful music to the ears, and great joy to the
hearts of the volunteers, who had been impatiently chafing at
their prolonged inactivity, so that when the injunction was given to
"mount," every saddle was filled, with alacrity.
The entire absence of roads in those days compelled them to
march in Indian, or single, file, and over the raost indifferent of
trails. Notwithstanding this, and the evidences of a gathering
storm, the order, " Forward, march," was cheerfully obeyed. Under
the directions of Major Savage, the advance was raade in silence;
"For," said he, " we must all learn to be still as Indians, or we shall
never find them." Braving with becoming unaniraity the heavy
rain, that was now coming down in torrents, their fearlessness
was rewarded by the welcome discovery of "Indian signs."
They were then on the south fork of the Merced River, about
two miles below where Wawona Station (Clark's) now is. As

52 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
night was advancing, and the rain was turning into snow, they
went quietly into camp. At daylight the following morning,
after leaving their animals and encarapment in charge of a strong
guard, two of the companies under Captains Boling and Dill, with
one of Savage's Indians naraed " Bob " as guide, advanced with
out any hesitation, or effort at concealment, to the Indian village.
"On discovering us," Dr. Bunnell reraarks, "the Indians
hurriedly ran to and fro, as if uncertain what course to pursue.
Seeing an unknown force approaching, they threw up their hands
in token of submission, crying out at the same time in Spanish,
' Pace! pace! ' (peace ! peace '). We were at once ordered to halt,
while Major Savage went forward to arrange for the surrender.
The Major was at once recognized, and cordially received by such
of the band as he desired to confer with officially. We found the
village to be that of Pon-wat-chee, a chief of the Noot-chii tribe,
whose people had formerly worked for Savage under direction
of Cow-chit-ty, his brother, and from whose tribe Savage had
taken Ee-e-ke-no, one of his former wives. The chief professed
still to entertain feelings of friendship for Savage, and expressed
himself as now willing to obey his counsels.
" Savage at once told the chief the object of the expedition, and
his requirements. His terras were promptly agreed to, and before
we had tirae to examine the captives or their wigwaras, they had
commenced packing their supplies, and removing their property
from their bark huts. This done, the torch was applied by the
Indians themselves, in token of their smcerity in removing to the
reservation on the Fresno."
After this bloodless victory, the captured chief, Pon-wat-chee,
volunteered the information to Savage of a camp of the Po-ho-no-
chees on the opposite side of the river, not far below his old village.
Messengers were immediately dispatched there; and as the Po-ho-
no-chees, through their runners, had already learned of the surprise,
and peaceful abduction of the Noot-chiis, and of their kindly
thlmselvl^^ *^^ ^^'^''^' ^^^y ^'"^'^^y' ye* unhesitatingly, gave
Messengers and runners were now sent out in all directions to

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 53
discover the hiding-places of other Indian bands, with instructions
to promise safety, protection, food, and clothing, if they surren
dered, and extermination if they refused. This significant mandate
had its desired effect ; and although their moveraents were charac
terized by timidity and fear, all found in this imraediate vicinity,
quietly surrendered.
These encouraging auguries gave measurable promise of like
successes with the defiant Yo Semites, and other Indians, still
hidden in their raountain fastnesses. Sirailar raessages to the
above had been conveyed to the Yo Seraites ; but, as yet, not a
single Indian had consented to present hiraself, and accept the
profiiired conditions. To avoid corapulsory nieasures and possible
slaughter, it was deemed desirable to send a special courier to
Ten-ie-ya, the chief of the Yo Seraites, bearing a kindly, yet
decided, ultimatum. To this the old chief concluded it best to
respond at once, and in person, on the following day.
INTERVIEW BETWEEN TEN-IE-YA AND MAJOR SAVAGE.
From Dr. Bunnell's graphic picture of the conference, as an
eye-witness, the chief of the Yo Semites had the courage to go
alone, and to present himself in dignified silence to the guard,
there to remain standing untd motioned to enter Savage's tent.
He was imraediately recognized and respectfully greeted by Pon-
wat-chee as the chief of the Yo Seraites. Both officers and men
received him kindly, and raost cordially tendered hira the hospi
talities of their camp: —
" After which, with the aid of the Indians, the Major informed him
of the wishes of the Commissioners. The old sachem was very suspicious
of Savage, and feared he was taking this method of getting thc Yo-
semites into his power, for the purpose of revenging his personal wrongs.
Savage told him that if he would go to the Commissioners and make a
treaty of peace with them, as the other Indians were doing, there would
be no more war. Ten-ie-ya cautiously inquired the object of taking all
the Indians to the plains of the San Joaquin, and said: 'My people do
not want anything from the Great Father you teil me about. The Great
Spirit is our father, and he has always supplied us with all that we need.
We do not want anything from white men. Our women are able to do

54 IN THE HE. ART OF THE SIERRAS.
our work. Go, then; let us remain in the mountains where we were born;
where the ashes of our fathers have been given to the winds. I have said
enough ! '
" This was abruptly answered by Savage in Indian dialect and gest
ures. ' If yoa and your people have all you desire, why do you steal our
horses and mules ? Why do you rob the miners' camps ? Why do you
murder the white men, and plunder and burn their houses ? '
"Ten-ie-ya sat silent for some time; it was evident he understood
what Savage had said, for he replied: 'My young men have sometimes
taken horses and mules from the whites. It was wrong for them to do so.
It is not wrong to take the property of enemies who have wronged my
people. My young men believed the white gold-diggers were our enemies;
we now know they are not, and we wdll be glad to live in peace with them.
We will stay here and be friends. My people do not want to go to the
plains. The tribes who go there are some of them very bad. They will
make war upon my people. We eannot live on the plains with them.
Here we can defend ourselves against them.'
" In reply to this. Savage very deliberately and firmly said: 'Your
people must go to the Commissioners and make terms with them. If they
do not, your young men will again steal our horses; your people will again
kill and plunder the whites. It was your people who robbed my stores,
burned my houses, and murdered my men. If they do not make a treaty,
your whole tribe will be destroyed, not one of them will be left alive.' At
this vigorous ending of the Major's speech, the old chief replied: 'Itis
useless to talk to you about who destroyed your property and killed your
people. If the Chow-chillas do not boast of it, they are cowards, for they
led us on. I am old, and you can kill me if you will, but what use to lie
to you who know more than all the Indiana, and can beat them in their
big hunts of deer and bear. Therefore I will not lie to you, but promise
that if allowed to return to my people I wdll bring them in.' He was
allowed to go. The next day he came back, and said his people would
soon come to our camp; that when he had told them they could come with
safety, they were willing to go and make a treaty with the men sent by
the Great Father who was so good and rich. Another day passed,
but no Indians made their appearance from the ' deep valley,' spoken of
so frequently by those at our camp. The old chief said the snow was so
deep that they could not travel fast; that his village was so far down
(gesticulating, by way of illustration, with his hands) that when the snow
was deep on the monntains they would be a long time climbing out of it.
As we were at the time having another storm, Ten-ie-ya's explanation
was accepted, but he was closelv watched."

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 55
As each returning day brought with it no tangible evidence
of the arrival of the Yo Semites, it was resolved that they .should
be sought after in their boasted stronghold ; and, notwithstanding
the discouraging pictures so graphically painted, in both language
and gesture, by Ten-ie-ya, of the difficulties and dangers to be
encountered on the way, coupled with assurances of the early
arrival of his people,
AN EXPEDITION TO THE MYSTIC VALLEY WAS RESOLVED UPON.
When volunteers were called for, according to the usual
custom of the battalion, the entire coramand stepped to the front.
Here a new dilemma became strikingly apparent. As the Indian
captives, as well as baggage, had to be protected, a camp-guard
was as essential as an advancing cohort. A call for this duty
was then made, but as very few responded, the officers decided to
provide for it by a good-natured piece of strategy — a foot race —
the fleetest to be the favored ones for the expedition, and the
slowest to form the camp-guard. This novel method of selection
was greeted with hilarious applause, as it made provisions for
both emergencies, without hurtful discrimination.
Amid many jocular allusions at the possible value of their
fleet-footedness (on a retreat ?) when they met the enemy, the
troops on the following morning made an early start, with Major
Savage in the advance, accompanied by Ten-ie-ya as guide. Deep
snow, attended with the usual difficulties of making a trail
through it, was soon encountered and overcome, by the rider in
advance frequently falling out of line, and the next taking his
place. By this old-fashioned method a passably good horse-trail
was made over it, especially considering the rough and rocky
country being traveled over.
YO SEMITES- MET UPON THE TRAIL.
About midway between camp and the valley seventy -two of
the Yo Seraites were met, forcing their way flounderingly through
the snow, loaded down with children and wares, yet, on their route
to the place of general rendezvous, at the south fork of the

56

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

Merced. This was at least partial proof that Ten-ie-ya was act
ing in good faith, by carrying out his promises. But, as his band
was estiraated to number over two hundred, the question very
naturally arose, where could be the remainder ? Ten-ie-ya,
by way of apology for his limited following, contended that many
of his people had uitermarried with distant tribes, and gone away;
that these were all that were willing to leave their raountain
horaes and move to the plains; that some few were sick and
unable to come now, but would join thera in the future, and
other similar excuses. Such unsatisfactory statements, iraplying
as they did at best, that only a portion of the Yo Semites was
here represented, the troops determined upon advancing. As
Ten-ie-ya was a reluctant, if not an unwilling guide, one of his
young " braves " was selected in his place, and the old chief
aUowed to accompany his people to the camp.
THE YO SEMITE VALLEY FIRST SEEN BY WHITE MEN.
After separating frora the Indians, and before advancing
many miles, the great valley opened before them like a sublime
revelation.* But here Di-. Bunnell, an eye-witness and partici
pant in the honor, must be allowed to express his own sensations,
and to paint the graphic picture. +
It has been said that " it is not easy to describe in words the precise
impressions which great objects make upon us." I cannot describe how
completely 1 realized this truth. None but those who have visited this
most wonderful valley, can even imagine the feelings with which I looked
upon the view that was there presented. The grandeur of the scene was
but softened by the haze that hung over the valley— light as gossamer—
and by the clouds which partially dimmed the higher cliffs and mountains.
This obscurity of vision but increased the awe with which I beheld it, and,
as I looked, a peculiarly exalted sensation seemed to fill my whole being,
and 1 found my eyes in tears with emotion.
To obtain a more distinct and quiet view, I had left the trail and
•This was on May 5 or 6, 1851, although Dr. Bunnell incorrectly gives the
latter part of M.irch as the date. See dispatches of Maj. James D. Savage, in
Elliott's History of Fresno County," pages 1711, 180.
+ " Discovery of the Yosemite," page 54.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 57
my horse, and wallowed through the snow alone to a projecting granite
rock. So interested was I in the scene before me, that I did not observe
that my comrades had all moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed
alone. My situation attracted the attention of Major Savage — who was
riding in the rear of the column — who hailed me from the trail below with,
" You had better wake up from that dream up there, or you may lose your
hair; I have no faith in Ten-ie-ya's statement that there are no Indians
about here. We had better be moving; some ofthe murdering devils may
be lurking along this trail to pick up stragglers." I hurriedly joined the
Major on the descent, and as other views presented themselves, I said
with some enthusiasm: "If my hair is now required, I can depart in
peace, for I have here seen the power and glory of a Supreme Being; the
majesty of His handy-work is in that ' Testimony of the Rocks.'"
To the Mariposa Battalion, then, commanded by Major Savage,
is to be accorded the honor of first entering the Yo Semite Valley,
May 5th or 6th, 1 8 5 1 . It is true the writer has heard of various per
sons having visited it, when prospecting for gold, as early as 1849,
but no responsible data to establish the fact has yet come to his
knowledge. Still, if this were proven beyond peradventure,
their neglect to publish so marvelous a discovery to the world, is
presumable evidence of a lack of appreciation, or of an absorbed
attention to other pursuits that utterly diverted it from this
sublime theme. And while discussing this question I hope to be
forgiven for expressing surprise that so little was said or written
upon it by its discoverers at that time. Even Dr. L. H. Bunnell,
to whom the public is so largely indebted for his interesting nar
rative, "The Discovery of the Yosemite," only published his
description of it in 1880. Extenuating mention should, however,
be raade of the fact that, at that tirae, nearly every one s thoughts
and energies were mainly centralized upon the acquisition of
wealth, or in combatting the too frequent disappointments that
followed in its train, for a moraent to permit such a divertisement
as an intellectual banquet on scenery, or in the preparation and
serving up of one for others.

CHAPTER IV.
THE NAME— "YO SEMITE"— ITS ORIGIN AND MEANING.

On the choice of friends
Our good or evil name depends.

—Gay.

I do beseech you
(Chiefly that 1 might set it in my prayers),
What is your name ' —Shakespear's Tempest, Act HI.
Time is lord of thee :
Thy wealth, thy glory, and thy name are his.
— Thomas Love Peacock's Time.
After the safe arrival of the coraraand on the floor of the
cliff -encompassed horae of the "Grizzlies," asthe Yo Semites were
invariably termed by the troops, it would seem that although
supposed to be surrounded by hostile Indians, and that, too, in
their much-vaunted stronghold, there evidently existed an utter
absence of precaution, as of fear, inasmuch as all kinds of rollick
ing mirth and jollity held unchecked court in the lair of the
eneray, and around a huge carap-fire, on the very evening of their
arrival. It was here, and under these circurastances, and on this
occasion, that the now famous valley received
THE MUSICAL NAME — YO SEMITE.
Its meaning is, according to the very best authorities, a large,
or full-grown, grizzly h&ir; and is pronounced Yo Sem-i-tee.
The old Indian name was Ah-wah-nee, and the tribe which inhab
ited it — the remote ancestors of Ten-ie-ya — were Ah-wah-nee-
chees, the origin or signification of which is still veiled m mys
tery. All these considerations, and other proposed names merit
ing attention, were fully discussed at this opportune juncture;
(58)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 59
but •• Yo Semite," the one suggested by Dr. L. H. Bunnell, was
finally adopted by an almost unanimous vote.
From an intelligent Indian, whose life the writer was once
instrumental in saving, and from whom raany interesting facts
concerning his race have been obtained, and will be given in due
season, he received the following
LEGENDARY TRADITION CONCERNING " YO SEMITE."
A band of the Ah-wah-nee-chees, then a tribe nurabering
over one thousand, was encaraped araong the oaks near the foot
of Indian Caiion ; when, early one morning, an athletic chief deter
mined upon going to Mirror Lake (called by thera " Ke-ko-too-
yem," or Sleeping Water, and " Ah-wi-yah ") for the purpose of
spearing a number of its delicious trout. On threading his way
among the bowlders that strewed the ground, and when passing
one of the largest, he was suddenly met by an enorraous grizzly
bear. The abruptness of this unexpected raeeting must have
been interpreted by the grizzly as an unjustifiable intrusion upon
his ursine privileges and domain, as he imraediately declared it a
casus belli, by an instantaneous and ferocious attack upon the
Indian. Unprepared as the young chief was for such an unequal
encounter, he resolved upon standing his ground, and doing his
best, as nobly as he could, so that the children of Ah-wah-nee
might see that the valorous blood of their ancestors was still fiow
ing in the veins of their descendants. The dead lirab of a tree,
lying near, provided him with a weapon of defense, and with it
he dealt out heavy and lusty blows upon the head of his antagonist ;
and, although badly lacerated and torn by the teeth and claws of
the infuriated brute, the Indian courageously held to the uneven
contest, until the eyes of bruin began to glaze in the cold glare
of death; and "victory had perched upon the banners "of the
chief. The astomshed Indians, in admiring acknowledgment
of the unexarapled prowess of the dauntless Ah-wah-nee-chee,
thenceforth called him " Yo Semite " in honor of his .successful
and great achievement. This well- won cognomen was eventually
transmitted to his children ; and, finally, to the whole tribe ; so

60 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
that the " Yo Seraites" were known, and feared, by all thelndians
around their wildly defensive habitation.
It is apparent frora Dr. Bunnell's statement* that the signif
ication of " Yo Semite " was not generally known to the battal
ion ; nor was there any uniformity in its general pronunciation,
even among the Indians themselves, some calling it Oo-soom-i-tee,
others Oo-hura-i-tee, Yo-hura-i-tee, Yo-hem-i-tee, and still others
A'o-hara-i-tee , while Bullack, the oldest of the Yo Semites now
living, calls it Ah-Hura-a-tee — all, however, having the same
meaning. Nor is this much to be wondered at, from a people
entirely without a written language. Even in England- — intelli
gent and progressive England — (as well as in sorae portions of the
United States) there is an anoraaly existing in pronunciation. In
London, for instance, the word "corn" is enunciated cawn; in
Hampshire, it is cam; while on the borders of Scotland it is eoom,
and all intending to speak it corn. Tn Hereford.shire, beef is
spoken hif; and feet, fit. Who, then, can wonder at the unlettered
savage varying in his pronunciation.
In the summer of 1855, Thoraas Ayres, Alexander Stair,
Walter Millard, and the writer, raade the first tourist trip to Yo
Semite ever attempted — about which soraething more will be pre
sented hereafter. We engaged two Yo Semite Indians as guides
Towards night of the first day out, -^e inquired of the principal
guido, Kossum, how far it might possibly be to Yo Semite — for
then we knew it by no other name. He looked at us earnestly, and
replied: " 'No Yo Semitee! Yo Hamitee; sabe, Yo-ham-i-tee." In
this way we were corrected not less than thirty-five or forty times.
After returning to San Francisco, havuig arranged for the publi
cation of a large lithograph of the Yo Semite Falls, before attach
ing the name to it. I wrote to Mr John Hunt, who was keeping
a store on the Fresno River, and from whom we had obtained
our Indian guides, requesting him to go to the most intelligent
among them, and ascertain the exact way of pronouncing the
name given to the valley. His answer was, " The correct pro-
* "Discovery ofthe Yo Semite," page 62.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY 61
nunciation is Yo-ham-i-te or Yo-hein-i-te." This, then, was
the name placed on the lithograph.
After the first attempted portrayal of the valley in Eutch-
ing's California Magazine, July, 1856, wherein Yo-ham-i-tee*
was still used, there ensued a spirited though good-natured news
paper contest between Dr. Bunnell and the writer, upon its orthog
raphy; the former contendmg for Yo Semite, and the latter for
Yo Hatniitee, on account of the reasons above given. This discus
sion disclosed information, generally unknown before, of the nam
ing of the valley, as proposed by Dr. Bunnell, on the night of its
flrst entrance by white people. May Sth or 6th, I85I, and naturally
invited acquiescence in the privilege and right of its first visitors
to give it a nomenclature most in accordance with their own
expressed selection; hence, unquestioned concurrence in perpetu-
atmg the now well-established name. " Yo Semite."
Before fully closing these inquiries, it may not be inappro
priate to consider why preference is given here to the construction
of the word Yo Semite with a capital S on its second syllable.
It is this: Dr. Bunnell, to whom the world is indebted for the
choice and adoption of this euphonious name, so gave it to the
writer, some thirty years ago, and before the present slovenly way
of spelling it came into practice. It is true. Dr. Bunnell, in his
valuable work, "The Discovery of the Yosemite," has fallen into
that habit; but, when asked his reason for making the change,
replied, " I allowed the printer to follow his own way of spelling
it. Yours, however, is the correct one, and I must give you credit
for keeping up its pure orthography, that being the construction
given to it, and agreed upon, at our first camp-fire in Yo Semite
in 185 1." The Act of Congress making the donation of the valley
to the State, so gives it.
*Dr. Wozencraft, chairman of the United States Indian Commission, still
gives tbis as the only name known in 1851, aud the correct oue.

CHAPTER V
CLOSE OF THE INDIAN CAMPAIGN.
Not in the clamor of the crowded street,
Not in the shouts and plaudits of the throng.
But in ourselves, are triumph and defeat.
— Longfellow's The Poets.
The arms are fair
When the intent for bearing them is just.
— Shakespear's Henry IV., Part I., Act V.
How calm, how beautiful comes on
The stilly hour, when storms are gone.
— Mooee's Lalla Rookh, The Fire Worshippers, Part III.
On the early morning following the day of their arrival in
the much-vaunted fastness of the " Grizzlies," when the order was
given to "fall in," every saddle was instantly occupied, and the
advance commenced. The immense piles of talus lying beneath
the granite walls of the Po-ho-no* Fall, intercepted their progress
on the south side of the Merced, and compelled the fording of its
ice-cold waters. The irregular depth of the river, with its
obstructive bowlders, gave involuntary invitation to several for
an unintentional bath ; and which, but for the danger of being
swept down by the current into the cafion below, and to certain
death, was only the signal for additional hilarity.
SMOKE FROM A SLUMBERING PICKET FIRE
Near El Capitan* unmistakably revealed the presence of Indians,
and that they knew of the advent of the whites, and were evi
dently watching their raoveraents. The near vicinage of a large
collection of Indian huts that had been but recently inhabited,
and now gave evidence of hasty desertion, was proof positive that
*A11 local objects of interest were without known names at this time.
(0-2)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 63
the garae sought was near at hand, but had been driven away by
lack of circumspection. A short distance from camp was an
abundant supply of acorns, their staple article of bread-stuff". It
would seeiii, however, by the tracks made, that their pretentious
valor was, like their footsteps, rapidly taking departure. Far
up the valley other manifest signs gave hopeful promise of near
ness to the foe; but again "delusive hope" was to experience
another dash of disappointraent, as nothing but evidences in
abundance of hasty departure were discoverable — except a very
old woraan " that could only be likened to
.A. VIVIFIED EGYPTIAN MUMMY,"
And who, when questioned of the whereabouts of her companions,
curtly replied (in Indian), " You can hunt for them, if you want
to see thera ! " Hunt they did for several days, but none were
found, as the rocky talus over which the hostiles had raade their
escape, left no tracks of their course.
On all hands, and at every deserted carap, were found large
stores of Indian food, such as acorns, pine and chincapin nuts,
grass seeds, wild oats scorched, dried caterpillars, roasted grass
hoppers, sun-dried larvae and pupas of flies, obtained mostly frora
Mono Lake; horae-raade baskets, of many sizes and patterns,
and for different uses ; a few rabbit or squirrel-skin robes, for bed
coverings,* obsidian (for arrow heads), pumice-stone, salt, relics of
clothing and trinkets, the picked bones of horses and mules, and
other property stolen from the whites, were found in liberal
abundance — but not a single Indian was seen other than the
old woman, and the "brave," brought with thera as guide.
Provisions becoming exhausted in the camp at Yo Semite,
and the outlook for collecting the scattered Yo Semites veiy dis
couraging, without a prolonged search among the mountains
around, after burning up the Indian food supplies, camp furniture,
and huts, as the only available means now at comraand for cora
pelling a surrender, this unsuccessful carapaign was closed by a
return of the battalion to carap at the South Fork.
*For full description of all such articles, with the fabrics and methods of
manufacture, see Bunnell's "Discovery of the Yo .Semite," pages 78-80.

€4 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
CAPTIVES LEAVE SOUTH FORK FOR THE RESERVATION.
As the capture of any additional Indians, for the present at
least, was strongly problematical, and supplies were running short,
upon the arrival of the Yo Semite expedition, it was determined
to break up camp, and convey such Indians as had been secured,
to the reservation on the Fresno. On their way thither the com
plement of " captives " was increased about one hundred by the
voluntary surrender of that nuraber to Captain Dill's command.
An appetizing march of several days brought the entire
cavalcade to within a few miles of their intended destination.
The general deportment of the Indians had been such as to suc
cessfully win the confidence of both officers and raen, so that a
strict guard over thera was considered as altogether unnecessary.
Under these conditions, permission was asked for a large portion
of the command to accompany Major Savage to the reservation.
"The Major finally assented to the proposition, saying, 'I do not
suppose the Indians can be driven off", or be induced to leave, until
they have had the feast I have promised ; besides, they will want
to see some of the coraraissioners' finery. I have been delighting
their iraaginations with descriptions of the presents in store for
them. ' " Therefore Captain Boling, with nine men as camp guard.
was the only force left. All apprehensions allayed, the kindly-
hearted Captain told his men to take their sleep, and that he would
watch, as he was not sleepy. " Towards morning I took another
round," relates Captaui Boling, "and flndmg the Indian camp
wrapped in slumber, I concluded to take a little sleep myself,
until daylight. This now seems unaccountable to me, for I am
extreraely cautious in ray habits. I confess myself guilty of
neglect of duty; I should have taken nothing for granted. No
one can imaghie my surprise and mortification when I was
told that THE INDIAN CAMP WAS ENTIRELY DESERTED,
And that none were to be seen except the one asleep by our camp-
fire. Consternation was in every face, as not one of the three
hundred and fifty captives, seen in such apparently peaceful

PHOTO, er 0=0. FISKE

TU-TOCK-AH-NU-I.AH, or El. C.KPITAN
3300 FEET HIGH

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 65
sluraber that night, was now left to explain the cause of their
hasty departure. Effort in pursuit only disclosed their successful
ex<xlus, and the utter hopelessness of one oificer and nine raen
atterapting to recapture them. No choice was left, therefore, other
than for these to report themselves at head-quarters, and tell their
own sad story. The long-delayed arrival of the expected caravan
at the reservation, gave sorae cause for uneasiness there ; but not
one was prepared to realize the full force of such an appalling
disclosure, as, that every one of the Indians, whora they had been
raonths in collecting, were, in a single night, and when within a
few miles of th(_! anticipated goal, all scattered abroad. Still,
however reluctant the admission, the startling fact stood boldly
out, that " 'Tis revelation satisfies all doubts."
With this came also the dawning consciousness of some unex-
plainable cause foi' theii' sudden departure. As Kee-chee had
invariably proven bimself to be unswervingly loyal to the
interests of peace, he was immediately summoned, for both con
ference and service, and dispatched among the affrighted fugitives.
Then developed the certainty that on the preceding eventful
night several Chow-chilla runners had visited the camp, and
cajoled the unsuspecting captives into the beliei: that they were
being decoyed into a trap, and would all be murdered. The}^
also assured them that Dr. Wozencraft, one of the Commissioners,
had already killed Kee-chee, the principal chie:' of their united
tribes, and that there was a plot on foot to slaughter every one, the
moment they had them in their power. These grossly infamous
representations, then, very naturally caused the totality of the
stampede. Kee-chee's appearance among them, alive, was not
only conclusive proof of his safety, but of the fraudulently decep
tive stories of the Chow-chillas. His personal explanations and
assurances soon resbjred their confidence, and the raajor portion
cheerfully consented to seek the coniforts and protection of the
reservation, where they expressed sincere regret for allowing
themselves to be so readily imposed upon. One desire now was

66 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
raanifestly upperraost, the speedy punishment of the Chow-chillas,
for beinjr the cause of all their trouble.
As the Yo Semites had again returned to the valley, and
with the Chow-chillas had refused to respond to the messages
sent, A NEW CAMPAIGN WAS RESOLVED UPON.
Accordingly about one hundred men, led by Captains Boling and
Dill, and under the comraand of Major Savage (who was shortly
afterwards sumraoned to return), commenced scouring the country
in all directions for Indians — all now found being considered
"hostiles." A large band of Chow-chillas, having a war- dance,
was discovered upon the south bank of the main San Joaquin
River, arranged to give battle ; but, after crossing the stream, in
full expectation of meeting them, the enemy had fled. Examina
tion of a smouldering fire gave evidence that the body of Jose Key,
with his articles of value, had just been consumed.
All the lodges and stores were destroyed, and the trail of the
retreating Indians taken ; but after exploring this entire section,
crossing and recrossing the swollen strearhs, and enduring many
hardships, not a single Indian was either killed or captured.
The destruction of supplies, and starving them out, was now con
sidered about the only way of reaching and successfully conquer
ing them, and the troops marched back to the Fresno. This view
was proven to be correct, for not many days had elapsed after
their return, when Tom-kit and Frederico, .successors to Jose Key,
as chief of the Chow-chillas, with rauch bombastic gasconading,
finally made a treaty, and accepted terms. This ended the war
with this defiant and once powerful tribe, leaving only the
" Grizzlies " to grapple with.
THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE YO SEMITES.
Suitable preparations corapleted, the advance was commenced
under Captain Boling — "the services of Major Savage bemg
indispensable to the Commissioners " — the raain column follow
ing uuder Lieutenant Chandler, In the hope of surprising the

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 67
Indians, if possible, or "cut oft' the escape of the women and
children, and thus bring the warriors to terms," a rapid and
stealthy march was made, and the valley quietly entered, but no
Indians were discovered. A few newly built but now deserted
huts, with heaps of hulled acorns, sorae of which had been set on
fire, and were still burning, that had evidently been prepared for
huraan transportation across the Sierras, were the only visible
signs of Indian life. The entrance of the pursuers to the valley
had evidently been anticipated and closely watched.
THREE OF ten-ie-ya's SONS TAKEN PRISONERS.
Their advance, however, was soon to be rewarded by the sight of
living forms flitting from tree to tree, and from rock to rock ; these
proving to be a portion of the eneray of which they were in search,
a lively chase coraraenced that resulted in the capture of five
Indians, probably scouts, three of whom were sons of Ten-ie-ya,
and as they had been caught near three .singularly uniform
mountain peaks, these peaks were called, and are still known, as
" The Three Brothers.'' Hence the derivation of that appellation.
An excited search in diff'erent directions speedily disclosed
unmistakable indications of the near proxiraity of Indians, in con
siderable numbers, and who were manifestly secreting themselves
among the rocky talus bordering the open raeadows, or on the
adjacent cliffs, and were then probably espying all their raove
raents. Countless tracks, baskets, scattered acorns, and other
"signs," apparently indicated the wayto their hiding-place, or
trail of exit. These were at first eagerly followed, but gradually
the conviction forced itself upon sorae that they had been inten
tionally placed there by the Indians to
LURE THEIR PURSUERS INTO A TRAP;
While others, more valorous than prudent, hurried for the foe, to
" beard the lion in his den." This incautious teraerity was at the
risk of their lives, for huge raasses of rock came thundering down ;
fortunately, however, some projecting cliff's, under which they
were enabled to speedily find shelter, saved them from extermina-

68 IN THE HEA RT OF THE SIERRAS.
tion. One raan, naraed Spencer, was struck by a fragment and
hurled over fifty feet; yet he, although badly cut and bruised,
eventually recovered. This was carrying out the threatened
method of warfare indicated by Kee-chee.
Ten-ie-ya's sons made no .secret of the certainty that the old
chief was ii^^ar, and intimated that he would in nowise be averse
to coinino; in, if sent for, to "have a talk with the white chief"
One son, and the son-in-law of Ten-ie-ya, were accordingly dis
patched for him, in charge of Dr. Bunnell, the other prisoners
being kept as hostages. Meeting the sorrowful and angry cav
alcade with the wounded man, upon the way, it required all the
doctor's firmness to prevent their shooting the messenger pris
oners under his charge upon the spot.* After safely escorting
them to the foot o. the mountain, where the trail leaves the caiion,f
he allowed the Indians to proceed upon their raission, and
returned to camp; calling, however, on the way to dress the
wounds of the suffering soldier.
ESCAPE OF A PRISONER.
While awaiting the arrival of tidings of, or from, Ten-ie-ya,
and indulging in the restful recreation of witnessing the expert
use of the bow and arrow by the Indians, the target having been set
at long range ; while pretending to examine the closeness of the
shots, one of the hostages made his successful escape up the North;
Canon — naturally to the indescribable mortification of those
ostensibly in charge. To avoid a repetition of so undesirable a
circumstance, the remaining two were tied together, and, for still
greater security, had been fastened to a tree; but later, when sup
posing that their movements had been unnoticed, they succeeded
in releasing themselves, and iramerliately started upon the run
for the same canon that had aff'orded escape for their corapanion.
It is more than presumable that these proceedings had been
*For full and graphic recitals of these adventures, read "Discovery of the
y osemite. tThis is the old and long-used Indian trail by Mt. Watkins to Lake Ten-ie-ya
and .Mono.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 69
approvingly watched by the guarrl, who, it is supposed, was
longingly anxious for an excusable opportunity for killing them
and effectually ridding both the camp and the eountry of their
presence, although contrary to the orders and policy of those in
command. Be that as it raay,
ten-ie-ya's YOUNGEST SON WAS SHOT DEAD,
When scarcely twenty yards from the tree to which he had been
bound ; the other would have shared the same fate but for "a
bullet-pouch that had been hung upon the rauzzle of one of the
guard's rifles;" owing to this circumstance he escaped unharmed.
This act was uniformly deplored and condemned by nearly the
whole command, and its perpetrators deservedly shunned and
despised by all, frora that time thenceforward.
MESSENGERS SENT TO TEX-IE-YA.
The morning passed'* and the hour of ten arrived, without Ten-ie-ya.
Captain Boling then sent out Sandino and the scouts to hunt for him, and,
if found, to notify him that he was expected. Sandino soon came back,
and reported that he had seen Ten-ie-ya and talked with him; but that
•he was unable to reach him from below, on account of the steepness of
the ledge. Sandino reported that Ten-ie-ya was unwilling to come in;
that he expressed a determination not to go to the Fresno. He would
make peace with the white chief, if he would be allowed to remain in his
own territory. Neither he nor his people would go to the valley while the
white men were there. They would stay upon the mountains, or go to the
Monos. CAPTURE OF TEN-IE-YA.
This positive, though soraewhat unexpected answer frora the
old chief, could not well be raisunderstood, and Captain Boling
promptly resolved upon the execution of such measures as would
compel acquiescence in his wishes. Having ascertained from
Sandino the probable locality occupied by Ten-ie-ya upon the
cliff, he dispatched Lieutenant Chandler and a necessary ibrce,
accompanied by a few Noot-chii and Po-ho-no-chee .scouts, for the
purpose of surrounding and bringing him into camp, according
* "Discovery of the Yosemite. '

70 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS
to orders, alive if possible. He was found near the expected
place, eagerly scanning every raovement passing below, and,
to appearance, utterly unconscious of the approach of the platoon.
The unwelcome discovery made, and seeing that his retreat above
had been cut off, Ten-ie-ya at flrst ran along westerly, on the slope of the
mountain towards Indian Caiion;'*' but finding that he was cut off in that
direction also, by the Noot-chii and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, he turned and
came down a trail, through an oak tree top to the valley, which Sandino
had by this time reached, and where he had been attracted by the noise
made in pursuit. Lieutenant Chandler had not climbed up the trail, and
hearing Sandino's cry for help, and the noise above him, he was able to
reach the place when Ten-ie-ya descended, in time to secure him. Ten-
ie-ya said the men above him were rolling down stones, and he did not
like to go up, as they broke and flew everywhere; for that reason he came
down. Ten-ic-ya accompanied his captors wdthout making any resistance,
although he strongly censured the Indians for being instrumental in his
capture.'f With the proud bearing of a chief who represented a long
line o". ancestors, and a tribe that commanded the respectful fear
of surrounding bands, although a prisoner, he walked almost
defiantly erect into camp. The first object that met his gaze
upon arrival was the dead body of his favorite son. Here let us
silently drop the mantle of sympathetic sorrow over the feelings
of a bereaved father, while we make sad confession that
" When all is past, it is humbling to tread
O'er the weltering field of the tombless dead."
The most benignant condolence, followed by the fullest regretful
explanations, could not restore his latest-born son. Not a word
escaped his quivering lips for many days. The raost persistent
of questionings elicited no articulate response.
As Ten-ie-ya would give no clew to the whereabouts of his
people, even if he knew (and which was very doubtful) a well-
organized and scrutinizing search was instituted in many direc
tions, and mostly on foot. While these were being systematically
•This -was the name given to the " Xorth Cafion" after the escape of the
Indian fugitives up it; and by which t has ever since been known.
tRunnell's " Discovery of the Yosemite.'

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 71
conducted among the mountainous surroundings of the valley,
there arose considerable excitement within it, frora
TEN-IE-YA ATTEMPTING HIS ESCAPE.
But "as he rushed frora his keeper, Cameron dashed after and
caught him before he was able to plunge into and swim the river."
Supposing that he was to be conderaned and shot for this, when led
to Captain Boling, whom he considered responsible for the loss of
his son, his feelings at last found utterance in the following char
acteristic speech, as presented by Dr. Bunnell: —
KiU me, sir. Captain! Yes, kiU me, as you killed my son; as you
would kill my people if they were to come to you! You would kill all
my race if you had the power. Yes, sir, American, you can now tell your
warriors to kill the old chief; you have made me sorrowful, my life dark;
you killed the child of my heart, why not kill the father ? But wait a
little; when I am dead, I will call to my people to come to you; I will call
louder than you have had me call [referring to the expressed wishes ofthe
officers that he should call in his people]; that they shall hear me in their
sleep, and come to avenge the death of their chief and his son. Yes, sir,
American, my spirit wdll make trouble for you and your people, as you
have caused trouble to me and my people. With the wizards I will follow
the white men and make them fear me. You may kill me, sir. Captain,
but you shall not live in peace. I wdll follow in your footsteps, 1 will not
leave my home, but be with the spirits among the rocks, the water-falls,
in the rivers and the winds; wheresoever you go, I will be with you. You
will not see me, but you will fear the spirit of the old chief, and grow
cold.'* The great spirits have spoken ! I have done.
Instead of killing him, however, they regaled him with a
good supper, their sorrow changing into adrairing veneration for
his fearless bravery.
As sundry explorations in the immediate vicinity of the
vallejr had brought no hoped-for results, an ex])edition was
resolved upon to the High Sierra, and, if necessary, across them.
Ten-ie-ya was taken with them.
'•It is claimed by all Indian " Medicine Men " that the presence of a spirit is
announced by a cool breeze, and that sometimes they turn cold and shake as with
an ague. — Dr. Bunnell.

72 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
SURPRISE OF THE INDIAN VILLAGE.
Before advancing over twenty railes above the valley, the blue
ascending sraoke of sorae carap fires indicated the near vicinity of
an Indian village. Cautiously approaching it, and after captur
ing their outlyiag pickets, they found the Yo Semites in force by
a beautiful lake. Judiciously raovino- upqn it, before they were
discovered they succeeded in surrounding and surprising the
whole, so that not one of them had time or opportunity for escap
ing. This was a master-stroke of good fortune. Finding them
selves utterly powerless, they piteously cried out for peace. There
was not even the semblance of i-esistance or of apparent objection-
Here Ten-ie-ya rejoined his four squaws, and their re-union once
more was a joy-giving event. As all seeraed worn out with
watching, and were. in a starving condition, they gave abundant
proof of abject willingness to accept almost any terms.
THE NAMING OF LAKE TEN-IE-YA.
"Looking back to the lovely little lake," writes Dr. Bunnell,
where we had been encaraped during the night, and watching
Ten-ie-ya as he ascended to our group, I suggested to Captain
Boling that we name the lake after the old chief, and call it
"Lake Ten-ie-ya.' " In concurrent response to this, the Captain,
addressing those asserabled, replied: "Gentleraen, I think the
narae an appropriate one, and shall use it in my report of the
expedition. Beside this, it is rendering a kind of justice to per
petuate the name of the old ch'.ef." This, therefore, was the
origin and time of naming one of the most charmingly pictur
esque lakes of any country, concerning which more will be said
in a future chapter. THEY MARCH FOR Y(J SEMITE.
The total number of Indians found here was thirty-five,
"nearly all of whom were in some way a part of the family of
the old patriarch, Ten-ie-ya." All of the remainder of those that
had escaped were supposed to have joined the Tuolumne and
Mono Indians, among whom they had intermarried. Deeming it

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

73

better to proceed with, and care for, those already in safe-keeping,
than to pursue others at the neglect of these, and against orders,
the men were placed under guard, and the women and childi-en
allowed to go free, and in this manner the motley cavalcade took
up its line of raarch.
According to Indian custom,
the Avomen perforraed all the
manual labor, including the
carrying of all their heavy
packs; and the men the eat
ing, the grumbling, and the
sleeping. This arrangement,
to the officers in charge, was
demurred to a!s an unequal
division, and in the hope of ad
justing it, and facilitating a
more rapid advance of the
entire party, the men were
ordered to bear a fair share of
the burdens. Against this,
however, to the amusing sur
prise of all, the squaws them
selves w^ere the most violently on the march.
opposed. Ten-ie-ya, it is said, waxed eloquent against such an
unheard-of innovation of their custoras. As all parties in interest
were averse to any such change, it was accordingly abandoned.
END OF THE MARIPOSA INDIAN WAR.
Diversified by numerous scenes and experiences by the way,
every captive with which they had started was eventually deliv
ered safely over to the Indian Comniissioneis at the Fresno, and
the expedition formally coraraended for its success. This virtu
ally terrainated the Mariposa Indian War. That accoraplished,
the Mariposa Battalion was raustered out of seivice, July 1,
1851.*

•See Elliott's " History of Fresno County," page 181.

CHAPTER VI.
EARLY HISTORICAL INCIDENTS.
Ill habits gather by unseen degrees.
As brooks' make rivers, rivers run to seas.
— Dridbn's Ovid, Metanuirphoses, Bh. XV.
Guilt's a terrible thing. .
 Be.n Joxson's Bartholomew Hair.
Angels for the good man's sin
Weep to record, and blush to give it in.
— Campbell's Pleasures of Hope.
Chafing under the restraint attending his residence at the
reservation, in addition to raany tribal squabbles, and the
ostensible lack of dignity showed him by his fellow-captives,
Ten-ie-ya implored permission to return to his old horae in the
raountains, promising faithfully to conforra to every requirement
asked of him by the Coraraissioners. This permission was event
ually conceded, under certain conditions, and the old chief, with
his family, was once more allowed to return to the Yo Semite.
Other merabers of his tribe, shortly after Ten-ie-ya's departure,
silently stole away from the reservation and joined him; "but as
no complaints were made by their chiefs, it was understood that
they were glad to get rid of them ; therefore no effort was made
to bring them back."
After the severe lessons already taught these renegades, it
was reasonable to suppose that they would have accepted the
situation, and kept upon their best behavior, but with the return
of winter carae also the Indians, and with them their old bad
habits. Numerous aniraals being raissed frora their pasture-
grounds, it was presuraed that the Yo Semites had stolen them ;
"but as some of thera were found in the possession of Mexicans,
who were proraptly executed for the theft, no charge was pre
ferred against the Yo Seraites."
(74)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

75

N or abimt May 28th, 1S.52,* a
party of five prospectors for
gold, consisting of Messrs. Tu
dor, Gr(jver, Sherman — or Sher-
bon — Babcock, and Rose, left
Coarse Gold Gulch, Fresno
County (now used as one of the
stage routes between Madera
and Wawona), for the Yo Semite
Valley. They had scarcely
entered it before they were
attacked by Indians, that lay
in arabush araong the rocks, at
the foot of the old Indian trail.
Rose and Sherman — or Sherbon, as Dr. Bunnell gives it — were
instantly killed. Tudor was seriously wounded; but he and the
others secreted themselves among the rocks, and fought the
Indians, until darkness en.ili^.ed thera to raake good their escape.

THE ATTACK.
"Elliott's " History of Fresno County."

76 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
The arrival of the survivors in Mariposa with the exciting
news of these murders, and the renewal of Indian hostilities, veiy
naturally stirred up the old defiant hate, and the Indian Commis
sioners were blamed for permitting Ten-ie-ya's return. It was,
moreover, feared that this would be a signal for the wholesale
desertion of Indians from the reservation. Instead of this,
however, those living on the outside fled within for protection,
fearing that the guilt of others would be visited upon their
O'wn heads.
UNITED STATES EXPEDITION SENT AGAINST THE YO SEMITES.
The officer in comraand at Fort Miller, on the San Joaquin
River, was informed, by special courier, of these murders; when
a detachment of regular soldiers, under Lieutenant Moore, U. S.
A. , was immediately sent out against the enemy, accompanied by
scouts and guides that hacl formed portions of the first and second
expeditions, and a few friends of the murdered mon. They sur
prised and captured five of the Indians ; the others, led by Ten-
ie-ya, fled and escaped. The naked bodies of the raurdered men
Were found, and buried, near the Pohono, or Bridal Veil Fall.
Satisfied of the proof being conclusive that the Indians caught
were the blood-stained murderers of the whites, the clothing of the
murdered men being found upon their persons. Lieutenant Moore
ordered thera to be shot upon the spot.
These effectually disposed of, Mooro and his forces, after
searching for the reraaining Yo Semites in their hiding-places
about the valley, pursued them into, and even across the moun
tains to, the Mimo country ; but as the Indians had every advan
tage, both in the start, and in their knowledge of the ways and
by-ways of escape, they were never overtaken, and the command
reluctantly returned to Fort Miller, without a single prisoner
as a trophy.
THE YO SEMITES NEARLY EXTERMINATED BY THE MONOS.
Nothing more was heard of the Yo Semites, after their suc
cessful flight to, and hiding among, the Monos, with whom they

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 77
found .shelter and protection, until the early .summer of 1853,
when, being dissatisfied with their dependent position, and more
so with the locality assigned them, they returned once more to
the Yo Semite Valley. Fearing the just retaliation of the whites,
however, they made their abiding places araong the talus,
whence they could notice every movement of the eneray, without
themselves being seen. There are several of these places of shelter
still to be found among the rocks near Indian Caiion, and elsewhere.
Life, in their old home, un.spiced with naschief, became
unbearably monotonous to them after the habit had been acquired,
and learning through their runners that the Monos had stolen a
large band of fine horses from the vicinity of Los Angeles, the
Yo Semites became jealously uneasy, and planned a foraging
excursion, to obtain some of this living plunder for their own use ;
indulging the impression that it would be safer, under present
circumstances, to steal frorn the Monos than from the whites. The
raid was accordingly executed with masterly cunning, and their
arrival with the stolen horses successfully accomplished. By this
time they had mustered .sufficient courage to form an encarap
ment down in the valley, near the mouth of Indian Canon,
where, according to Dr. Bunnell, who is probably the best info]*med
of any raan living, on such topics: —
After a few days' delay, and thinking themselves secure, they killed
one or more of the horses, and were in the enjoyment of a grand feast in
honor of their return, when the Monos pounced down upon them.
Their gluttony seemed to have rendered them oblivious to all danger to
themselves, and of the ingratitude by which the feast hiid bsen supplied.
Like sloths, they appear to have been asleep after having surfeited their
appetites. They were surprised in their wdgwams by the wronged and
vengeful Monos, and before they could rally for the fight, the treacherous
old chief was struck down by the hand of a powerful young Mono chief.
DEATH OF TEN-IE-YA, THE LAST CHIEF OF THE YO SEMITES.
Ten-ie-ya had been the principal object of attack at the commence
ment of the assault, but he had held the others at bay until discovered
by the young chief, who, having exhausted his supply of arrows, seized a
fragment of rock and hurled it with such force as to crush the skull of " the
old Grizzlv." As Ten-ie-ya fell, other stones were cast upon him by the

78 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
attacking party, after Pai-ute custom, until he was literally stoned to death.
All but eight of Ten-ie-ya's young braves, were killed; these escaped down
the valley, and through the caiion below. The old men and women who
survived the first assault were permitted to escape from the valley.
The young women and children were made captives, and taken across the
mountains to be held as slaves or drudges to their captors.
Thus substantially ended the once famous tribe of the Yo
Semites. The few that escaped eventually found their way to
" Hunt's Store" on the Fresno. It was from these that we
obtained our Indian guides in 1855, as related in the ensuing
chapter. DEATH OF MAJOR SAVAGE.
Before closing this recital, it may not be deemed irrelevant to
state that Major Savage, the chosen ofiicer of command for the
Mariposa Battalion, fearing that the best interests of the Indians
were being jeoparded by the course of speculative and unscrupu
lous men, denounced some of the leaders in unmeasured terms.
This brought on a personal altercation, and re-encounter, between
Savage and a raan naraed Harvey, which ended in the death of
Savage, August, 1852.
The Indian tribes represented in the Peace Treaty were as
follows: The Howechais, Chookchancies, Chowchillas, Pohono-
ches, Nootchoos, Pitcaches, Capoos, Toomanehs, Tallinchees,
Poskesas, Wachahets, Itaches, Choenemnes, Chokimenas, Notoho-
tos, and Narraelches — 16.*
As Dr. Bunnell most graphically states: "It was a well-
known fact that these people [the Indians] preferred horse-fiesh
and their acorn jelly to the rations of beef that were supposed to
have been issued by the Government;" and, moreover, as an ulti
mate sequence, the reservation on the Fresno gradually becaine
unpopular on this account, but mainly, from bad management;
was afterwards abolished by the Government; and, finally, its
lands and buildings were gobbled up by sharp-sighted, if not
unprincipled men who, like many others of that class, became
rich out of the acquisition.
• Elliott's History of Fresno County. "

CHAPTER VII.
FIRST TOURIST VISITORS TO YO SEMITE.
God is the author, men are only the players. — Balzac
There are two worlds; the world that we can measure with line and rule, and
the world that we feel ith our hearts and imaginations.
—Leigh Hunt's Men, Wcmen, and Books.
And this our life, exempt from public haunt.
Finds tongues in trees, bo'ks in the running brooks.
Sermons in stones and good in everything.
— Shakespeare's As You Like It.
Upon the return of the Mariposa Battalion to the settlements
— the exploits of which are briefly outlined iu chapters two and
three — and when, like
"The broken Soldier, kindly bade to stay.
Sat by his fire, and talked the night away, "
They recounted their
" Moving accidents by flood and field,"
But little seems to have been said, and that little very casually,
about the m,arvelous grandeur of the Yo Semite, at least but
little found its way, impressibly, to the public through the press
of that day. It is therefore only a historical verity to confess
that, but for the contemplated publication of an illustrated Cal
ifornia monthly — afterwards issued for a number of years in San
Francisco — its merely fortuitous raention would probably have
escaped the attention of the writer altogether as it seeraed to have
done that of the public. As the account given, however, raen
tioned the existence of " a water-fall nearly a thousand feet high,"
it was sufiicient to suggest a series of rurainating queries. A
water-fall a thousand feet in height, and that is in California ? A
thousand feet ? Why, Niagara is only one hundred and sixty-
(79)

80 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS
four feet high ! A thousand feet!! The scrap containing this
startling and valuable stateraent, meager though it was, was
carefully treasured. THE FIRST TOURIST PARTY.
About the twentieth of June, 1855 — some four years after
Yo Semite had been first seen by white men, and when entirely
unaware 01 the sublime mountain scenery afterwards found there—
the '' water-fall a thousand feet high " induced the writer to form
a party to visit it. That party — whose names are also given iu a
previous chapter — consist'jd of the then well-known artist, Thomas
Ayres (who had been specially engaged by the writer to portray
the majesty and beauty oc the lofty water-fall expected to be
found there), Walter Millard, and J. M. Hutchings. Mr. Alexan
der Stair afterwards joined us at Mariposa.
Upon our arrival at Mariposa, whence the principal mem
bers of the battalion had started out against the Indians, in
LSol. to our surprise, the very existence of such a place as the
Yo Semite Yalley, was almost unknown to a very large propor
tion of its residents. Numei'ous and persistent inquiries, however,
eventually revealed the .act that a man nameil — say — Carter, was
one of those who had gone out against the Indians, in I<S51.
Accordingly, Mi . Cai-ter's resiflence was anxiously inquired for,
and finally found about two miles below town. Mr. Carter was
at home. " Is this Mr Carter ? "
" Yes, sir; it is."
" You were a meraber of Company B, Captain Boling's, I
believe, during the Indian campaign of 1851 ? "
"Yes, sir; I was."
" Did you go to the Yo Semite Valley with that corapany ? "
" I did, ,sir."
" Then ycni are the very man that we wanted to find. We
have just arrived here from San Francisco, and want to learn
our way to that valley. Will you, therefore, please to give us

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 81
such plain directions, that we cannot possibly misunderstand
them, so that we can get there ? " He looked at us in bewildered
and nervous astonishment, and replied : —
" Me, sir ? I couldn't do it. I am not worth a worn-out
old pick at that business. Why, bless your life, I only live about
two miles frora town, and if I don't notice particularly what I
am about, I am sure to take the \\'rong trail, and get lost. The
fact is, sir, I ara about the poorest man you could have corae to,
on that business. Now if you had only gone to John Fowler's,
John could have told you all about it. John Fowler is the man
that you want."
" Where does he live ? "
" Only about a mile and a quarter from heie. You couldn't
very well miss the trail, if you were to turn to the left at the
bottom of this ravine; about two hundred jards from there, by
bearing a little to the right, 3'(ju will cross Blanket Ridge into
Shay's Gulch ; well, j^ou follow that down nearly to the mouth,
where you go over a rocky point into Slum-gullion Creek ; here,
let me caution j^ou to keep a sharp lookout for miner's prospect
ing holes, that are full of soft mud, although apparently dry and
hard on the top ; for, if you ever walk into one of those, the chances
are against your ever getting out, to say nothing about the bright
red color you would be painted, if you should come out at all.
Well, John Fowler's cabin is on the west side of Slum-gullion
Creek, about three-quarters of a mile above where you first strike
it. If John hasn't gone to town — and I don't think this is his
day for going — he can give you all the directions."
So we thanked Mr. Carter for his information, wished hira
good-day, and set out in search of " John Fowler's." Many were
the INTERESTING OLD-TIME MINING SCENES
That we witnessed by the way, and which, of theraselves, would
have been sufiicient, under ordinary circumstances, to fully compen
sate us for our jaunt, and even now they beguiled and rewarded
our every footstep. Perseverance is generally crowned with suc-
6

82

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

cess, and although the day was sultry, and the trail soraetimes
doubtful as well as rough, we finally found ourselves at the door
of Mr. Fowler's cabin. According to the almost invariable custom
among gold miners, no matter how rough their exteriors, we
were most courteously re
ceived. His answers to our
questions soon disclosed the
fact that although a mera
ber of the expedition of
1851, and had entered the
valley with the others, hav
ing stood guard a good deal
at night, he generally felt
too sleepy in the day-tirae
to take particular notice
of the country over which
they were traveling. He
could probably give us some
general directions, yet thoy
would not be sufficiently
consecutive to enable us
to follow them. But there
was a raember of Corapany see! i'vb struck it.
C, naraed Lovejoy, who could accommodate us with the very
knowledge we were seeking.
Accordingly, Mr. Lovejoy was sought after, and found.
From him we ascertained, not the route to the Yo Semite Valley,
but that he had been the undisputed owner of a bad sick-head
ache, which he had kept in unquestioned possession for several
successive days, when on the march; and that, as a consequence,
he had noticed nothmg outside, or apart from that. He could
not tell us anything. Finally, a nuraber of regretful shadows
began to file into the furroM-s of his sun-burned face, and to
gather araong the wrinkles at the corners of his eyes, possibly at
the thought of the distance we had journeyed to find him, and

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

83

the little satisfaction he had
given to pay us for our tirae
and trouble. Looking stead
fastly and rausingly into our
faces, the shadows began to
lift, and the wrinkles to
sraooth away, as though a
dawning intelligence was
breaking slowly through hira
to our relief, as he exclairaed:
"Gentleraen! I have it at la.st!
There is Thoinas Osborne,
who lives down at Bogus
Thunder Bar, not over a mile
from here, who can," etc. etc.
So we called on Mr. Osborne,
and Mr. (3sborne sent us to
Mr Giles, and Mr. Giles re
ferred us to Mr. Harris, and
Mr. Harris directed us to sorae
one else, and thus we contin-
minbr's cabin. ued until, at last, night over
took us when questioning the eleventh fraction of the two hundred
and four, forming the Mariposa Battalion. The outlook for the
inforraation needed was not the most inspiriting.
In this dilemma we met Captain Boling, the gentleraan in
charge of Corapany B, of the Mariposa volunteers, and who,
being really very desirous of as,sisting us in every possible manner,
confessed that although he considered himself about as good as an
expert in wood-craft, could not now find the way to Yo Semite;
as the trails were all overgrown with grass and weeds; and, as a
matter of course, if he could not find the way there himself, it
would be siraply impossible for him to describe it so that we could
find it. " No," said he, " if I were in your place, gentleraen, and
wanted to go to the Yo Semite, I should first make a trip to John

84

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS

Hunt's store on the Fresno — ^it is thirty miles directly out of your
^ay — but there you will find the few Yo Semite Indians living of
the entire tribe; tell Mr. Hunt your wants and wishes, also say
to him that I sent you, and I am satisfied that he will provide
you with a couple of good Indian guides who can take you
straight to the spot." We considered this most excellent advice,
and, so expressing it, carried out his recommendations.
•WE EMPLOY YO SEMITE INDIANS TO GUIDE US TO THE VALLEY.
Mr. Hunt received us very kindly, and, acceding to our
request, procured us two of the most intelligent and trustworthy
Indians that he had, whose names were Kos-sura and So-pin;
and on the following day we set out upon our enigraatical course
for the valley.

ho! for the mountains.
Believe me there is an indescribable charm steals over the
heart when wandering among the untrodden fastnesses of the
mountains for the first time, especially under circumstances similar
to ours. We were entering a mysterious country — to us unknown.
The journey before us was full of uncertain lights and shadows
— so raight its ending possibly be. Our guides were Indians, and
from a tribe that bore no enviable reputation, and were, more-

THE YO ¦'<E.\IITE VALLEY.

85

over, strangers to us. They were conducting us araong the
unbroken solitudes of the forest, and away frora civilization.
The roads near the settlements left behind, there was scarcely
the outline of an Indian trail visible ; unused as they had been, all
were now overgrown, or covered up with leaves, as dead as the
hopes of the Indians that once trod them. The boughs of seem
ingly impenetrable thickets were parted asunder, and our way
forced through them in silence. Not a sound relieved the
unbroken stillness of our discursive progress. Even the woods
were voiceless with the songs of birds. A band of deer raight
occasionally shoot across an opening, or a covey of grouse beat
the air heavily with their wings in clumsy ffight ; but these were
all that could be seen or heard of life, except our own desultory
or nonsensical converse.
Stolidly our Indian guides advanced; unquestioningly we
followed. Not a thought of inquietude, or of distrust, or of mis-

WE TAKE A " cai-OfF."

86

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

giving intruded itself. As a natural sequence to a mountain
jaunt like ours, and over a supposed Indian trail — when there
was one, the best of which was never one of the smoothest — our
experiences were not only diversified but numerous. Now the
ridge up which we were ascending was at an angle so steep that,
when on foot, the tails of our horses would be used as hands to
assist us in climbing it. At times there was a fear lest our
animals should fall over backwards, or break their limbs between
bowlders. Then the descent would become so rapid, and the pine-
needles so slippery, that riding was impossible, and pedestrianism
brought us into all sorts of (un) artistic positions. (See illustra
tion on preceding page as well as on this). Sometimes the Indians
would cross a ravine in one place and ourselves in another.

AND WE FIND A "CUT-OFK. "

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. al
Of course we knew more about the way to go than they did
— and proved it ! There was one coraforting solace to all our mis
haps — they brought an enjoyable laugh to the Indian guides.
These, and their meals, were always in order, and ever pleasantly
taken. Successively and successfully, we passed through dark
and apparently interminable forests, penetrated brushy thickets,
ascended rocky ridges, and descended talus-covered slopes, until,
on the afternoon of the third day of our deeply interesting expedi
tion, we suddenly came in full view of
THE MARVELOUS VALLEY.
The inapprehensible, the uninterpretable profound, was at
last opened up before us. That first vision into its wonderful
depths was to uje the birth of an indescribable " first love " for
scenic grandeur that has continued, unchangeably, to this hour,
and I gratefully treasure the priceless gift. I trust, moreover,
to be "orgiven for now expressing the hope that my long after
life among the angel-winged shadows of her glorious ciifFs, has
given heart-felt proof of the abiding purity, and strength oc that
" first love " for Yo Semite.
This mere glimpse of the enchanting prospect seeraed to fill
our souls to overfiowing with gratified delight, that was only
manifest in unbidden tears. Our lips were speechless from thanks
giving awe. Neither the language of tongue nor pen, nor the most
perfect successes of art, can approxiraately present that picture.
It was sublimity materialized in granite, and beauty crystallized
into object forras, and both drawing us nearer to the Infinite One.
It would be difficult to tell how long we looked lingeringly
at this unexpected revelation ; for,
" With thee conversing, I forget all time."
Our sketches finished — the first probably ever taken — the fast-
lengthening shadows adraonished a postponement of that intensely
pleasurable experience, and in respon.se we hastened our descent
to the camp-ground on the floor of the valley.

Sketched liy Thoa. Atzhb, Juuo 20, 1855 — flrat everjUkeo.

aEXERAL VIEW OF THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.
CFrom Opon-ota-noo-iih. on tto oW lodinn 'X^nil. J

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 8&
OUR FIRST SLEEP IN YO SEMITE.
It was late in the night before the nervous exciteraent,
created by our imposing surroundings, permitted " sleep t > come
to our eyes, or sluraber to our eyelids;" and, even then, from our
dreams arose the shadowy forms of a new species of genii ! After
a substantial breakfast, made palatable by that best of all sauces,
a good appetite, and the sun had begun to wink at us from
between the pine trees on the inountain tops, or to throw shimmer
ing lances down among the peaks and crags, we commenced our
entrancing pilgrimage up the valley.
A few advancing footsteps brought us to the foot of a fall,
whose charming presence had long challenged our admiration;
and, as we stood watching the changing drapery of its watery
folds, the silence was eventually broken by ray reraark, "Is it not
as graceful, and as beautiful, as the veil of a bride?" to which
Mr. Ayers rejoined, " That is suggestive of a very pretty and
most apposite name. I propose that we now baptize it, and call
it, 'The Bridal Veil Fall,' as one that is both characteristic and
euphonious." This was instantly concurred in by each of our
party, and has since been so known, and called, by the general
public. This, then, was the time, and these the circumstances,
attending THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME "BRIDAL VEIL F.\LL."
About its Indian appellation and signification, with its legends
and associations, more will be said in a future chapter.
Our progress upon the south side of the valley — the one on
which we had entered it — was soon estopped by an immense
deposit of rocky talus, that compelled us to ford the Merced
River. Advancing upward upon its northern bank, after thread
ing our way among trees, or around huge blocks of granite that
were indiscriminately scattered about, passing scene after scene
of unutterable sublimity, and sketching those deemed mo.st note
worthy; again crossing and reciossing the river, we found
ourselves in imraediate proxiraity to the " water-fall a thousand

90

AV THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

feet high," and which had been the magnetic incentive to our
visit to Yo Semite. This, from our measurements of prostrate
pine-trees, by which was estimated the height of those standing
(as we had no instruments with us adapted to such purposes), we
deduced its altitude to be from fifteen to eighteen hundred feet!
By subsequent actual measureraents of the State Geological sur
vey, its absolute height is given at 2,634 feet; with which those
made by the Wheeler survey, under Lieut. M. M. Macomb, U. S.
A., very closely approximate. This inadequate realization of
heights at Yo Semite is often strikingly manifest in visitors, on
their first advent, even at the present day.

"ro-cOY-AE" AND " TIS-SA-ACK." (North, and South, or. Half Dome.)
[From a sketch taken in 1855. 1
It will be both unnecessary and inexpedient to detain the
reader, now, with detailed recitals of the raany objects of interest
witnessed on this rarable, inasrauch as they are to be more fully
presented with illustrations, in succeeding chapters. It may,

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 91
however, be desirable here to mention that our explorations were
limited to the valley, terminating at Mirror Lake — so named I ly
our party. We did not see the " Vernal " or " Nevada " Falls,
and only the Too-lool-we-ack, or Glacier Canon Fall, from the
Mirror Lake trail. But we had seen sufficient to fill our hearts
with gratitude that the All Father had created so raany majestic
and beautiful objects for human eyes to feast upon, that thereby
humanity might grow nearer to Him, and thenceforth be nobler,
higher, purer, and better for the sight.
We spent five glorious days in luxurious scenic banqueting
here, the memory of which is, like the mercies of the Alraighty,
¦• new every morning, and fresh every evening. " We left it
reluctantly, even when our sketch and note-lxjoks were as full to
repletion with elevating treasures, as our souls were with loving
veneration for their wonderful Author. I believe that each one
of us was responsively in sympathy with Bj'ron, as expressed in
the following lines frora "Childe Harold:" —
" I love not man the less, but Nature more.
From these our interviews, in which I steal
From all I may be, or have been before.
To mingle with the Universe, and feel
What I can ne'er express, yet cannot all conceal."
THE STORY HERALDED.
Our return to the settlements was the signal for the curious
and inquisitive to besiege and interview us with eager question
ings, to ascertain what we had seen and experienced; for there
was a vague novelty in such a trip in those days. Among these
came the editor of the Mariposa Gazette, Mr. L. A. Holmes (the
, memory of whom is still lovingly enshrined in the hearts of all
who intimately knew him), and. requested a full rehearsal of all.
the sights we had seen. Corapliance with so reasonable a request
was attended with a raodest exposition of our sketches, accora
panied with explanatory remarks to elucidate them. These ended,
Mr. Holraes thus addressed the writer :—
"Mr. H., I have been quite ill all this week. My paper has

92 IN THE HEART OF THE SI ERR A.S.
to make an appearance day after to-morrow or  , and I have
not been able to wadte a line for it, yet. You can therefore see
that you would infinitely oblige me, if you were to ,sit down at
that table there and throw me off" an article upon what you have
seen in this county, to help me out."
The response promptly carae, " All right. I will do so. I
take real pleasure in helping a raan out of a corner, if I can, when
he finds hiraself in one." Accordingly, a descriptive sketch of
what had been seen was written for Mr. Holmes, and was pub
lished in the Mariposa Gazette of about July 12, 1855.
GENERAL ATTENTION FIRST ATTRACTED TO YO SEMITE.
This sketch happened to enlist the attention of journalists,
was copied into most of the leading newspapers of the day,
and for the first time the attention of the public, generally, was
awakened towards the marvelous scenery of the Yo Semite Valley.
In this connection it should be reraembered that it is not by any
raeans clairaed that ours was the first party raaking the trip
there, nor that the first article written concerning it; but, inas
rauch as the sentiment accredited to Cicero,
"Justice renders to every man his due,"
Will, in the interests of historical accuracy, permit the statement
that, whether from preoccupied attention, or other causes, the
fact reraains the sarae that the Yo Semite Valley, at that time,
was as a setded hoole to the general public, and that it was our
good fortune to be instrumental in opening its sublime pages to
the public eye, that it might be "known and read of all men."
Fiat justitia, mat ccelum.
PARTIES FORMED TO VISIT THE NEW WONDER.
In and around Mariposa the new revelation seeras to have
become the theme of many tongues, as plans were discussed and
parties organized for visiting it. Early the ensuing August two
companies of kindred .spirits, one of seventeen from Mariposa, and
another of ten frora Sherlock's Creek, an adjacent mining camp,

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

93

started in search of the new scenic El Dorado ; the former party
engaged the same Indians as guides who hail conducted us there
so successfully, and the latter was led by Mr. E. W Haughton,
who had accompanied the Savage expedition, under Captain
Boling, in IS.JI. The members of the last-mentioned company
were THE DISCOVERERS OF THE VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS.
And as this was an event of untold importance in the develop
ment of the stupendous scenery of Yo Semite, great pleasure is
taken in transcribing portions of Mr. James H. Lawrence's
deeplv interesting and graphic account of it — he being one of the
party — ^given in the Overland Monthly for October, 1884: —
As I must trust to memory aloue for the names of my companions, not
even knowing whether any of
them .ire still alive, the list is
necessarily incomplete. There
W3re two of the Mann brothers,
Milton and Houston, abbreviated
to " Milt " and " Hugh," E. W.
Haughton, J. E. Connor, Geo. C.
Dickerman, a man by the name of
Priest, the long-legged boy [V],
and one o^her. who.se name is for
gotten. "The party was com
posed of ten as fearless spirits
and noble-hearted fellows as ever
shouldered a rifle or gathered
around a camp-fire."
E. AV. Haughton, who was with
the Boling expedition in 1851,
was our guide. Two pack-mules
loaded with blankets, a few cook
ing utensils, and some provisions,
constituted our camp outfit; while a half-breed blood-hound, whose owner
claimed that he was "the best dog on the Pacific Coast," and who
an.»".vered to the name of " Ship," trotted along with the pack-mules.
There was some talk about going mounted, but the proposition was voted
down by a handsome majority, on the ground that superfluous animals
were " too much bother."

STEADY, THERE ! STEADY

94 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
In fancy, I see them yet, and hear the ringing chorus, the exultant
whoop, and the genuine, unrestrained laughter at the camp-fire. It would
be worth a year of humdrum civilized society life to recall the reality of
one week of the old time.
One evening, after a series of dare-devil escapades for no other pur
pose except to demonstrate how near a man can come to breaking his
neck and miss it, some one suggested an expedition up the main river,
above the valley. Haughton was appealed to for information. He fa
vored the proposition, and said he would cheerfully make oneof the party.
As for information, he had none to give; neither he nor any of the Boling
expedition ever dreamed of attempting it. They came on business— not
to see sights or explore for new fields of wonder. Their mission was hunt
ing Indians. There was no sign of a trail. It was a deep, rough canon,
filled with immense bowlders, through which the river seethed and roared
with a deafening sound, and there had never been seen a foot-print of
white man or Indian in that direction. The caiion was considered
irnpassable. There was a chorus of voices in response.
"That's the word."
" Say it again."
" Just what we are hunting."
" We want something rough."
" We'll tackle that canon in the morning."
" An early start, now."
It was so ordered. ' ' With the first streak of daylight you'll hear me
crow,'' was Connor's little speech as he rolled himself in his blankets.
Kext morning we were up and alive, pursuant to programme. Everybody
seemed anxious to get ahead.
Three of us — Milton J. Mann, G. C. Pearson, and the writer of this
sketch — lingered to arrange the camp-fixtures, for everybody was going
up the caiion. When we came to the Glacier Canon, or Tuloolweack, our
friends were far in advance of us. We could hear them up the caiion
' shouting, their voices mingling with the roar of the waters. A brief con
sultation, and we came to the resolve to diverge from the main river and
try to eflfect an ascent between that stream and the canon. It looked like
a perilous undertaking, and there were some doubts as to the result; never
theless, the conclusion was to see how far we could go. Away up, up, far
above us, skirting the base of what seemed to be a perpendicular clifl",
there was a narrow belt of timber. That meant a plateau or strip of land
comparatively level. If we could only reach that, it was reasonable to
suppose that we could get around the face of the cliff. "Then we will
see sights," was the expression of one of the trio. AVhat we expected to

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 95
discover somewhere np the main stream -vvas a lake or perhaps a succes
sion of lakes — such having been the result of the explorations up the
Pyweah Canon, and mountain lakes being not unfrequently noted as a
feature of the sources of mountain streams.
But to reach the plateau — that was the problem. It was a fearful
climb. Over and under and around masses of immense rocks, jumping
across chasms at imminent risk of life and limb, keeping a bright lookout
for soft places to fall, as well as for the best way to circumvent the nsxt
obstacle, after about three hours' wrestling, "catch as catch can," with
that grim old mountain-side, we reached the tiraber. Here, as we had
surmised, was enough of level ground for a foothold, and here we took a
rest, little dreaming of the magnificent scene in store for us when we
rounded the bas 3 of the cliff.
The oft-quoted phrase, "A thing of beauty is a joy forever." was
never more fully realized. The picture is photographed on the tablets of
my memory in indelible colors, and is as fresh and bright to-day as was
the first impression twenty-nine years ago. To the tourist who beholds it
for the first time, the Nevada Fall, with its wierd surroundings, is a view
of rare and picturesque beauty and grandeur. The rugged cliffs, the
summits fringed with stunted pine and juniper bounding the canon on
the southern side, the "Cap of Liberty" standing like a huge sentinel
overlooking the scene at the north, the foaming caldron at the foot of the
fall, the rapids below, the flume where the stream glides noiselessly but
with lightning speed over its polished granite bed, making the preparatory
run for its plunge over the Vernal Fall, form a combination of rare eflFects,
leaving upon the mind an impression that years cannot efface. But the
tourist is in a measure prepared. He has seen the engravings and pho-
togr.iphic views, and read descriptions written by visitors who have
preceded him. To us it was the opening of a sealed volume. Long we
lingered and admiringly gazed upon the grand panorama, till the descend
ing sun admonished us that we had no time to lose in making our way
camp ward.
Our companions arrived long ahead of us. "Supper is waiting,"
announced the chief cook; "ten minutes later and you would have fared
badly; for we are hungry as wolves."
" Reckon you've been loafing," chimed in another. " You should
have been with us. We struck a fall away up at the head of the canon,
about four hundred feet high."
"Have you? We saw your little old four hundred-foot fall and go
you four hundred better "—and then we proceeded to describe our trip,
and the discovery which was its result.
The boys wouldn't have it. None of them were professional sports.

^6 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
but they would hazard a little on a horse-race, a turkey-shooting, or a
friendly game of "draw" — filling the elegant definition of the term
"gambler" as given by one of the faternity, viz.: "A gentleman who
backs his opinion wdth coin." Connor was the most voluble. He got
excited over it, and made several rash propositions.
"Tell me," said he, "that you went further up the canon than we
did'!* We went till we butted up against a perpendicular wall whieh a
wild cat couldn't scale. The whole Merced Eiver falls over it. Why, a
bird couldn't fly beyond where we went. Of course, you think you have
been further up the river, but you are just a little bit dizzy. I'll go you a
small wad of gold-dust that the fall you have found is the same as ours."
Connor was gently admonished to keep his money — to wdn it was like
finding it in the road— nay, worse; it would be downright robbery— but
to make the thing interesting we would wager a good supper— best
"we could get in camp, with the "trimmings" — upon our return home,
that we had been higher up the canon, and that our fall beat theirs in
altitude. It was further agreed that one of us should accompany the
p^rty as guide.
" Better take along a rope — it might help you over the steep places,"
was a portion of our advice, adding by way of caution to "hide it
away from Connor " when they returned, for "he would feel so mean that
he would want to hang himself."
To Pearson, wdio was ambitious to show oflf his qualities as a moun
tain guide, was delegated the leadership — an arrangement which was
mutually satisfactory — " Milt " agreeing with me that a day's rest would
be soothing and healthful. Besides, we had laid a plan involving a deep
strategy to capture some of those immense trout, of which we had occa-
.sional glimpses, lying under the bank, but which were too old and cunning
to be bsguiled wdth the devices of hook and line.
The plan was carried out, on both sides, to a successful issue. On our
part, we secured two of the largest trout ever caught in the valley, and
had them nicely dressed, ready for the fry-pan, when our companions
returned, which was about sunset. Soon as they came within hailing dis
tance, their cheerful voices rang out (Connor's above all the rest), "We
give it up! " They were in ecstasies, and grew eloquent in- praise of the
falls and scenery, at the same time paying us many compliments.
A courier was dispatched to notify the Mariposa party of our dis
covery. It was a .surprise to them, b'jt they had made their arrangements
to leave for home early the next motning. They regretted the necessity,
but business arrangements compelled their departure.
Upon the return of our party to San Francisco, the writer.

I'hi-t~' '>r Taher

Photo-typ.^ hy !'¦: iU'"! & AtJ'. .S". /¦"

CASCADE FALLS.
{Sec pagt-- 40X.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 97
being in pleasant intimacy with the late Rev. W A. Scott, D. D.,
and family, paid them a visit, when the subject of the scenery
of the Yo Semite was discussed, and .sketches shown. The doctor
manifested remarkable interest in the theme, and added: "Mr.
H., I am badly in need of a vacation, and if I can induce a
number of my friends to join me, I should like very much to visit
such a marvelous locality. I shall esteem it a personal, favor
to myself if you will dine with us at an early day, on which
occasion I will invite a few intiraate friends to join us, and dis
cuss the subject of visiting that astonishingly raagnificent creation. "
This invitation was cordially accepted, and in due tinie and order
the proposed dinner party assembled, when the matter was thor
oughly canvassed, and a company formed for making the journey.
On the evening of their arrival in Maiiposa, on the way up, it
was their good fortune to meet some of the merabers of the Mari
posa party, just returned from Yo Semite; from these additional
inforraation was received, and timely suggestions made, born of
recent experiences. The Indian guides, Kos-sum and So-pin,
having satisfactorily conducted tjiemselves on each former occa
sion, and being now at liberty, were reengaged by the Scott
party. After a very satisfactory and soul-satisfying jaunt. Dr.
Scott, upon his return to San Francisco, gave several eloquent
discourses, and published some tersely written articles upon it.
His raagnetic enthusiasm largely contributed to the development
of an interest in the minds of the public, to witness such sublime
scenes as those he had so graphically portrayed. Frora that day
to this the great valley has been visited — and by tens of thousands ;
but this -jwa.? the inauguration of tourist travel to Yo Semite.
In October, 185.5, was published a lithographic view of the
Yo Semite Fall (then called Yo-H<im-i-te), from the sketch taken
for the writer by Mr. Thomas Ayres, in the preceding June, and
which was the first pictorial representation of any scene in the
great valley ever given to the public.

CHAPTER VIII.
ITS EAKLY DEVELOPMENT AND PEOGEESS.
Though varying wishes, hopes, and fears.
Fevered the progress of those years.
Yet now, days, weeks, and months, but seem
The recollection of a dream. — Sco-r'r's Marmion, Canto IV.
There is no life of a man, faithfully recorded, but is a heroic poem of its sort.
— Carlyle's Essays.
The west yet glimmers with some streaks of day;
Now spurs the lated traveler apace.
To gain the timely inn. — Shakespear's Macbeth, Act III.
As time rolled on, delighted visitors kept flocking to Yo
Seraite. The dangerous roughness, and uncertainty of the old
Indian trails (where there were any), or the inconveniences and
discomforts of open-air life, in no way deterred or discouraged
them. This induced two enterprising brothers, Milton and Hous
ton Mann, in 1850 — who had formed a portion of the Sherlock's
Creek party the preceding year — to survey and construct a new
horse-path frora " Clark's," on the south fork of the Merced, to
the valley. This was completed in August, 1856, and opened as
a toll trail. Proving unremunerative as such, it was subsequently
sold to the county of Mariposa, at about one-third of its cost, and
made free. Every visitor that has passed over this trail iu early
days will call to pleasant memory the unpretentious hospitality
and comfort of the wayside inn known as " Peregoy's;" and never
forget the emotions evoked by the magnificent view of the distant
Sierras from "the raeadows," or the inexpressively impressive
scenes from "Inspiration Point," and " Mt. Beatitude." No-w,
these are seldom seen except by sheep and cattle herders, 'who
(98)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 99
make the succulent pastures of these mountain steppes a place of
temporary refuge for themselves and flocks, during the sumraer
raonths. CONSTRUCTION OF OTHER TRAILS.
The liberal patronage coraing frora the public to hotel keepers,
livery men, and others upon the line of travel from Mariposa to'
Yo Semite, became a strong incentive to the business men of
Coulterville and Big Oak Flat to seek similar advantages for
themselves. Accordingly, mountaineers were sent among the
forest solitudes beyond those settleraents, trails surveyed, built, and
soon thronged with expectant pilgrims on their way to the new
Mecca of scenic devotion. About this tirae, moreover, the newly
discovered " diggings " of Mono (now included in the Bodie Min
ing District) were attracting great attention from miners and
traders, and very naturally intensifled the interest in all such enter
prises, and stimulated their rapid completion. Scarcely a turn
could be made upon either of these routes without revealing
some wonderful picture of majesty or of beauty.
In the earliest infancy of trail travel to Yo Semite,
ALL HAD TO CAMP OUT.
And to manj' there was, and still is, a peculiar charm about
camp-life in the country that is unknown and unexperienced in
the world's crowded thoroughfares. The absence of certain
civilized forraulas and restraints ; its freedom from ordinary cares ;
its opportunities for buoyant dilatation and cheerfulness; its con
stantly recurring changes; its tendencies to develop the best
(and, sometimes, the worst) of human qualities; its lesultant
trending to fearlessness; its uniforra healthiness, in a climate like
that of California, and especially in the mountains; and, certainlj'
not araong the sraallest of these considerations, is its uniform
economy (and which, in these latter days, is by no raeans the
least), unite to make " camping out " oneof the most invigorating
and enjoyable of divertisements. But successful camping out
is "a fine art," and it is not every one that can efficiently raan-

100 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
age, or successfully conduct it. A few hints upon this will be
found in a future chapter.
An " overwhelming majority " of tourists, however, do not
like to camp out. Some there are who could not if they would;
and there are others who would not if they could. For these,
therefore, hotel accommodation becarae desirable.
PIONEER HOTEL BUILDING AT YO SEMITE
To meet such emergencies, a very primitive kind of a house,
the frame of which consisted of pine poles — some of thera set in
the ground to form posts— and the covermg of "shakes," or
"boards," riven from logs of pine, its gable, or triangular end,
forming the front, was commenced in the fall of 1856, near the
location known as "Black's," by Messrs. Anderson, Ramsdell,
Coward, and Walsworth ; but which was not finished that year.
Almost simultaneously with these movements, Mr. S. M.
Cunningham and Mr. Buck Beardsley formed a co-partnership
for hotel and trading purposes at Yo Seraite, and started for the
valley ; but a heavy snow-storm compelling a retreat, they cached
their tools and supplies, and returned to their old residence on Bull
Creek, to spend the winter. Early the following March, they
again set their faces for Yo Semite, where they arrived March 17,
1857. As Beardsley had to return with the pack-mules, Cunning
ham was left entirely alone. This latter remark may need a little
qualification, inasmuch as he was surrounded by a large band of
Indians, who, on account of a bounteous acorn crop the preceding
fall (acorns forming the Indian staple of bread-stuff), had made
an unusually early visit this year. But these gave him no trouble.
Cunningham and Beardsley erected a " shake " cabin* just
above the other location, and at once commenced business. These,
eventually, buying out the interests of the others above named,
finished the building commenced by them, and occupied it. Dur
ing the winter of 1857-58 the heavy snows broke down the
new building, and constrained the erection of another more sub-
* Afterwards temporarily occupied by Mr. T. Hill, Mr. W. Keith, Mr. Virgil
Williams, and other artists.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 101
stantial, in 1858. This was opened and kept, for S. M. Cunning
ham (who had separated his business connection with Mr. Beards
ley in the fall of 1857), by Mr. and Mrs. John H. Neal, who thus
became THE FIRST HOTEL KEEPERS AT Y(J SEMITE.
The following .seasons of 1859-60 it was kept by its owner,
Mr. Cunningham. In 1861, these premises were sold to Mrs. A.
G. Black — then living at Bull Creek— who rented it to Mr. P.
Longhurst, and others; and, in after years, to Mr. G. F. Leidig,
until occupied by her husband and herself, in 1869, by whom
it was taken down to make way for other much-needed improve
ments. Not a vestige now reraains of this pioneer structure to
mark the spot where it stood. Unassuraing and simple as it was,
many eminent persons, known to farae, once found shelter beneath
its hurable roof.
After Beardsley's co-partner.ship with Cunninghara had
ceased, he united with Mr. G. Hite — brother to the successful
rainer and millionaire, Mr. John Hite, of " Hite's Cove " — when,
in the fall of 1857, thej' comraenced the business of hotel keeping
and trading, in a blue tent, while preparing the timbers ior the
building now known as
THE OLD HUTCHINGS HOUSE.
As this was much raore coraraodious than the other, its con
struction was necessarily attended with raore difficulties and
expense; especially where everything had to be "created" — so to
speak — upon the spot, or l>i'ought fifty railes on pack-mules. As
there 'was no saw-mill for their needed supply of lumber, every
board or plank, rafter or joist, had to be hewed, or cut out by
whip-saw. These primitive contrivances took time as well as
money, so that the new structure could not be utilized for visitors
until May, 1859. Soon after its formal opening, Mr. C. L. Weed,
the pioneer photographer of Yo Semite, Rev. F. C. Ewer and fara
ily, Miss C. Neale, and the writer, were among its first guests.
The accompanying illustration is from the first photograph ever
taken in Yo Semite, and by C. L. Weed, in June, 1859.

102

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

Owing to a heavy indebtedness incurred in building the hotel,
and the lack of success attending the first " Fourth of July Paity"
given, for which extensive preparations had been made, and from
which much had been expected, its projectors and builders, unable
to raeet their obligations, assigned it to creditors for their protec
tion. The following two years it was leased to Mr. Charles Peck,
then to Mr. P. Longhurst, after which it was either let tempora
rily, or leiiiained closed, until purcha.sed by the writer in 1864.
In this connection it may be remarked that at that time the
land here was a part of the public domain of the United States,
and as such was considered to be open to preemption and settle
raent under the Pre
emption Laws of the
United States. Being
unsurveyed, however,
as no regular plot
could be filed of anj'
given portion of it in
the United States Land
Office, its location, giv
ing metes and bounds,
was entered upon the
I'ecords of the county,
and such entry was
interpreted as a legal guarantee of title, until surveyed by the
United Sta+es, and in the market. Under this impression settle
ments were made, titles respected, and frequent transfers of such
title given from one to the other, without their validity being
questioned. And it is a raatter of historical interest to state that,
at one tirae (about I860), an enterprising citizen .secured nearly
the whole of such titles, and put them all into a " Gi-and Lottery
Scheme," for the purpose of raffling off the entire valley to the
"lucky winner." But a "justifiable" nuraber of tickets not
having been sold, most of the monej' (as his enemies assert) was
(un)returned, and the speculation abandoned.

THE OLD HUrCHINGS HOUSE.

CHAPTER IX.
ITS FIK8T ^VINTER VISITOR.
The blood more stirs
To rouse a lion than to start a hare.
— Shakespear's Henry IV., Part I, Act, I.
I argue not
Against Heaven's hand or will, nor bate a jot
Of heart or hope; but still bear up and steer
Kight onward. — Milton's ,Sonnet.
God tempers the wind to the shorn lamb.
— Sterne's Sentimental Journey.
That inestimable of earthly blessings called "health," having
given unerrable premonitions of early dejiarture, from more than
one member of our little home circle, the family physician was
duly consulted, who gave emphatic enunciation to the opinion
that unless we left the city at an earlj' day, we should soon do so
from the world; we concluded the former journey — being the
shortest, best known, and upon the whole the pleasantest to take,
for the present — would be the most desirable. This point satis
factorily determined, without a single "if" or "but," the question
naturally presented itself, "Where can we go?" Resolving our
selves into a "Committee of Consultation," the "pros" and
"cons" of different localities were considered, when its feminine
members unequivocally expressed their decided preferences for
Yo Semite. Now, is it not a reasonable question to ask any man
"not set in his ways," if there would be more than one coarse left
him, under the circumstances, and that one "immediate and
unconditional surrender" — especially when in perfect concert
with his own predelictions and convictions? So, Yo Semite was
chosen. Another and equally pertinent inquiry now interposed, (103)

104 IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
' What can we do after our arrival there? " We could not sup
port physical life on scenerj', sublimely beautiful as it unquestion
ably was ! What then ? It was true we had some means, but to
live upon and absorb them, in comparative indolence, or unpro
ductive personal occupation, was as repellant to every ennobling
intuition as it was adverse to provident business foresight. This
momentous conundrum, therefore, was propounded to the ladies,
and was instantly met with another, " Whj' cannot we keep
hotel? " Why, indeed! Tliere was at least one condition in our
favor, not knowing anything about such a business we possessed
the usual (jualifications for conducting it. This was soraething!
Learn it? Certainly. Of course we could; but what were the
much-tried public to do in the unpleasant interim? Yes, it is
very easj' to answer, "Do as we would do, and as they have al
ways done. Try your best; take the best that you can find; and
make the best of what you get." But good meals, well cooked,
and pleasantly served, with clean-bed accompaniments, are always
preferred by the public to either philosophy or argument.
All objections being gracefully overruled, it was decided that
in the early spring we should move all our earthly goods, our
selves, and household gods, to Yo Semite, and there enter into
the mysterious and unthankful calling of " hotel keepers."
Accoi'dinglj', our books, chinaware, and other dispensable articles,
were carefully packed, at leisurable intervals, so as to anticipate
possible hurrj' at the start. The sky of our future was not only
filled with beatified castles, but was brilliant with the prismatic
coloi's of Hope; and, although
" Hope, like the gleaming taper's light.
Adorns and cheers our way;
And still, as darker grows the night.
Emits a brighter ray,"
At this particular season of day-dreaming expectancy
A CLOUD SWEPT ACROSS OUR HORIZON,
Brought by that ill-omened and unprincipled old storm-fiend
known as Dame Rumor, Avho asseverated, with untold assurance,

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 105
that " no one could ever make a permanent winter home in Yo
Semite, inasmuch as snow from the surrounding mountains
drifted into it, as into a deep railroad-cut, and filled it half full,"
and as its granite walls were from three thousand thiee hundred
to six thousand feet in height, the half of that amount, in snow
banks, under the most liljeral provision — even including a geiu-r-
ous supply for fashionable drinks — might well be deemed excessive
for the ordinary purposes of lesidence there in winter, notwith
standing its admitted value, in reasonable quantities, for snow-
shoe evolutions. Theru could be no doubt of the tenability of
these deductions fiom such premises. No one could be found wbo
had ever 1 leeii there in winter, therefore no one could be appealed
to for the affirmation or contradiction of these stories from Madam
Rumor. Therefore before accepting the responsibility of removing
the family to such a spot, proof raust be jjositive this way or the
other. But one path seemed open for making it so, and duty
irapelled rae to take it, and it was this, —
AN EXPLORATORY WINTER JAUNT TO YO SEMITE.
On the afternoon of the first dayof January, 1862, therefore,
although ^•ast banks of clouds had, for several days, lieen drifting
up from the south and indicated an approaching rain, the home
valedictory was spoken, and departure made by steamboat for
Stockton. There were no railroads heie in those days. On the
following morning, January 2, a seat was secured upon the out
going stage, to a ranch some few miles out, where my horse was
kept, and whence I soon started on my mystery-resolving ex
pedition. Before raany miles had been traversed, the threatened rain
began to fall, heavilj-, and to compel a shelter in the nearest way
side house. This was continued for the whole of that daj-. and
the next, and the two daj'S following. A few hours' suspension
of hostilities on the fifth day enabled me to again renew the
journey. But this time, lu iwever, all the shallow hollows across
the road had been converted into deep streams, and the ravines
into rushing torrents. The difficulty, if not danger of fording

106

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

NOW, FOR ANOTHER START.
these swollen strearas .suggested necessary delay for their subsi
dence ; and the expense of horse-keeping, the desirabilitj' of return
ing hira to the ranch, and continuing the trip afoot. Carrying
out these presumptive conjectures and chafing at the long pro
longed freaks of the warring elements, frequent efforts at progress
were atterapted, during every cessation of the down-pour. Pass
ing on frora one way-,side inn to another, during brief inter-
nussions of the storra, and by frequent wadings of water-courses
up to the chin, Coulterville, seventy-one miles from Stockton, was
finallj' reached on the evening of the seventeenth day from the
latter citj'! This, verily, was the "pursuit of knowledge under
difficulties." STORM BOUND.
Nor was this other than the beginning of the end, inasmuch
as the inundating rain kept pouring down for five successive

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 107
additional days; and news arrived of the sweeping away of
bridges and ferry-boats ; the tearing up of roads, and the discon
tinuation of stage and mail communication; the floating off of
houses, and the general flooding of the valleys. By natural rea
soning, therefore, the inquiry enforced consideration, " Ir these are
the doings of the storm within the boundaries of civilized settle
ments, -what must they not have been beyond their confines in the
mountains? " Ought a reluctance to acknowledge defeat be
allowed to resist the teachings of coramon prudence? Who could
accomplish impossibilities? Why not return, and await a bright
ening prospect, for its accomplishment?
" When valor preys on reason.
It eats the sword it fights with. "
These considerations admonished postponement and regression.
But how accomplish the latter, with all the ordinary avenues of
return closed up? Conferences with other storm -bound travelers
provided a way. We would accomplish it by water. Thei'(!
could be no question about this method from quantitive reasons.
Four of us, therefore, united our energies and resources, and dis
patched one of our number to Merced Falls, on the Merced River,
to have a suitable boat con.structed for
A VOYAGE DOWN THE MERCED.
Hearing of this, Mr. McKean Buchanan, well known to his
trionic fame in. those days, who had, with his troupe, been per
forming at " Snellings," upon the eve of this unusual effluence,
and been confined there ever since, desired to join us in our no^el
method of exit. This was cheerily conceded, and the uncertain
cruise commenced. Nearly every man, woraan, and child resid
ing near Snellings was present at our departure.
At this time the river upon which we were to venture had
largely overflowed its banks, Avas over a quarter of a raile in
width, and its waters had becorae a rushing, foaming torrent.
But out upon its angry bosom we pushed our little craft, and
were instantlv hurried down it at the rate of about fifteen railes
an hour. Just before dusk, an iramense gathering of drift had

108 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
given a sudden sweep to the surging stream, and forced us to a
choice between two alternatives — either to jeopard the capsizing
of our boat upon the drift, or risk its being swamped by shooting
through a narrow opening in it, with an abrupt descent of nearly
three feet, through which the water was precipitately plunging.
We chose the latter, our steer.sraan shouting, " Pull hard on the
oars — pull with all your raight;" and, fortunately, the passage
was safely accomplished without shipping a quart.
A SHIPWRECK.
ISlot so, with our fellow-voyagers, however, who, fearing to
follow us, had chosen the alternative we had declined, and their
boat was overturned upon the drift. This happening far from
the shore, and among numerous cross-currents, with darkness
closing in, made deliverance irapossible before raorning. Here,
then, they hacl to reraain through the long night, in their wet
clothing, without creature coraforts, encompassed by surging
rapids that might at any moment tear away their insecure foot
hold, and without knowledge of probable extrication, their boat
having floated away.
As illustrative of the devastation caused by the present storm,
it should here be mentioned, that on the very spot where we had
moored our wherry, there formerly stood a handsorae dwelling,
surrounded by fertile gardens, and fruitful orchards; but now,
the very soil, upon which they were .so recently standing had been
washed away, leaving a sad scene of sorrow-stirring desolation on
every hand. The house furniture had been hastily reraoved, only
in tirae to prevent its floating oft' with the house, and now lay
scattered high upon the river's bank, exposed to the eleraents.
Our breakfast fire was kindled long before day-dawn, so as
to be in readiness to render assistance at the earliest possible mo
raent ; and as its first glearas shot up into the darkness, cries for
help that had died away with the fire on the previous night, were
again raost eagerly rene-wed. To us those cries were rejoicing
music, as they assured us of the continued safety of those to whom
we hoped soon to bear deliverance.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 109
Climbing up tbe bluff bank that here bounded the river, .so that
we could overlook the watery waste below, and definitely ascer
tain the exact position of our imprisoned companions, and the
best waj' of reaching them, we saw in the shadowy distance the
forras of five men approaching, followed by troops of hogs ! The
foremost of the men proved to be the owner of the house and
lands, once his possessions here, and who, with his assistants, had
come to obtain some wet grain that was stored in the only build
ing left, standing on an island of the river, from which to feed his
hogs. When made aware of the circumstances of the case, he
kindly tendered us assistance. Selecting two of his most trusty
hands, after declining our proffered help, and preferring his own
boat to ours, he launched out upon the rushing current, and was
,soon lost amid underbrush and whirling eddies.
ANOTHER SHIPWRECK.
But a few rainutes had elapsed before there arose new cries
for help, as this boat also had capsized, when its occupants nar
rowly escaped drowning. Now there were six to be rescued
instead of three. Reinforcements for their succor must be
obtained, and immediately. Dispatching two men in each direc
tion, up and down the river, for this purpose, the two remain
ing prepared the boat for service, and investigated the water-swept
country, so as to render efficient assistance when other help
arrived. Appeal was not in vain; and, by three o'clock, all were
at last delivered from their perilous position.
HOTEL ON A CRUISE.
As Buchanan's boat had been found upon a drift, we pro
posed to share our provisions and continue the voj'age. To this,
however, he would not listen. "No," said he, "I will return to
my wife at Snellings. I would not, for the world, have any
other lips than my own tell her the story of this great misfort
une. Her nerves are so utterly unstrung by recent experiences
that the shock would prove fatal to her. Why, sir, we were in
the Snellings Hotel when the flood entirely surrounded us, and it.

110 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
We felt the building moving, when my wife and daughter, with
rayself, took the precaution to climb an oak tree that stood by
the porch; and just as we had reached it, the entire edifice, with
all its contents, floated off, sir ! In less than three-quarters of an
hour after our deliverance, sir, from the tree, the tree itself was
washed away. Then to add this to that sorrow, indiscreetly, would
be altogether too much — too much — for her, I assure you, sir."
But, when returning, another mishap overtook hira — he last
his way, and spent this night also a shelterless wanderer ! Just
before morning he saw an empty wagon, stalled in a muddy cross
road, and la J' down in it to rest and sleep ; but the cold awoke him
as day was breaking, when he discovered this to be his own
vehicle! — and only half a mile from town! Mr. Buchanan's first
voyage down the Merced, therefore, would not be cherished as
an altogether pleasant raemory.
THE VOYAGE CONTINUED.
On the following day we continued our boating excursion
down the Merced to its confluence with the San Joaquin River,
spending the night in the second story of Hill's Ferry House, the
flrst story being under water. But even here we were compelled to
utilize the table tops for both cook-stove and chairs, and only the
upper berths could be used for sleeping. A strong north wind,
blowing squarely in our faces, so much retarded our progress on the
San Joaquin (then several miles wide in places) that six days of
hard rowing were required to reach the city of Stockton, although
onlj' sixty miles distant. Here we gratefully left our boat for
use among the streets of that city — then in a flooded condition
— and secured passage on the outgoing steamboat for San Fran
cisco; and which, owing to the very high stage of water, shot
straight across the overflowed tule lands, instead of following the
usual course of the river. Thus ended the first effort to explore
the Yo Semite Valley in winter, and proved the aptness of Burns'
sentiment (addressed to a raouse),
" The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men.
Gang aft a-gley. "

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. Ill
THE SECOND AND SUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT TO VISIT YO SEMITE IN
WINTER.
In the ensuing March, as the problem whether or not the great
Valley could be safely occupied as a place of residence in winter,
remained unsolved; and the same cloud of uncertainty still hov
ered over our movements, and would ,so continue to do, unless
that theorem was resolved by actual demonstration, another
jaunt was accordingly planned, and this tirae via Mariposa.
Here two othei-s volunteered to accorapany me, as they also were
anxious to see the Yo Semite in her winter robes. Three of us,
therefore, set out on this pilgrimage. Colonel Fine, of Mormon
Bar, kindly loaned us a donkey to pack our necessary stores to
the snow-line, beyond which each man had to be his own pack
animal. At Clark'.s — now called "Wawona" — we were hospitably
entertained by its owner, who was one of our party. Here the
unsettled weather detained us for three days. On the fourth we
shouldered our loads and set out. A brighter raorning never
dawned. That evening we camped in about ten inches of snow ;
but this was soon cleared away; and, around a large camp-fire,
many stories were told to beguile away the hours.
Early on the morrow we were again upon our course — the
trail being covered up. About nine o'clock, snow had deep
ened to the knees, and every step was one reciuiring effbrt. A
fatiguing climb of one snow-covered mountain spur but revealed
another, and, still beyond, another ; the silvery covering increasing
in depth as we advanced. At length one of our companions
dropped his pack, and himself upon it, at the same instant,
exclairaing, " I'll be danged [he never swore] if I go any further.
I know we can never get through. Besides, this is too rauch like
work for rae [but few more industrious men ever lived]. I pro
pose that we all go back, and wait until some of this snow melts
off." To this my other companion gave reluctant concurrence.
At this crisis of aff'airs another consideration enforced itself
upon our attention : How could the ivinter status of the vallev
be ascertained if we waited until spring or suramer came ? This

112 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
was intended as a convincing argument to induce a forward
movement ; but, to make a long story as short as possible, my
two companions could not be persuaded to go on, nor the writer to
turn back — his raission still unaccoraplished. This left but one
alternative —
HE MUST ATTEMPT THE PERILOUS JOURNEY ALONE.
The increa'siiig depth of snow, the sohtude of its forest
wastes, the absence of all traces of a trail, utter helplessness in
case of accident, its unavoidable fatigue and exposure, danger
from wild animals, and possible sickness, — all of these, while
meriting due solicitude, ought not to deter or hinder him from
treading the path of dutV. Certainly no raan, worthy of so
honored an appellation, would for a moment hesitate at such a
crisis, where the safety of an entire faraily depended upon his
present movements. No. He must do the best that became his
manhood, and leave its results to the one higher Power. While
he could not blame the others, who were without the pale of such
responsibilities, for returning, he must press on to the goal desired.
Packs were therefore readjusted; about fifteen days' rations
secured; blankets, overcoat, ax, and other sundries tied snugly
up ; and, after a cheery good-bye to my companions, I started out
— alone. There is still a pleasant memory treasured ox their
kindly and long-lingering farewell look, when passing out of sight
— and, as they thought, forever. For several hours after departure
from my companions, a feeling of extreme loneliness and isolation
crept over me, so that the sight and voice of a chattering tree-
squirrel was a real relief ; but this soon passed away. The most
trying test of endurance was from the constantly breaking crust
of frozen snow, that grew deeper at almost every step, and
dropped rae suddenly down among bushes from which I had again
to climb with fatiguing eflfort, while realizing the uncertain tenure
of ray foothold after the surface had been gained ; thus deraoraliz-
ing one's clothing and incising his flesh, while taxing both strength
and patience to get out again.

Photo, by Geo. Ftske.

P/toto.tr/0 dy Britton Jt Rey. S. F.

CSTHEDRflL SPIRES-POO-SEE-NH CHUCK-KS.
l.nivrsT SpiBp c>.=io Ffft. Highest Spire 2,678 Feet Above Valley.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 113
SIX DAYS, ALONE, IX THE SNOW.
In this inanner six wearying days were passed, not walking
merely in or over snow, but wallowing through it, and only aver
aging about one mile of actual distance per day. At night I
slept where any friendly rock or tree offcre 1 its reviving shelter.
Just as darkness was about to lower down its sable curtain, there
being no place of rest or refuge visible in all that snowy waste,
and excessive fatigue had seemingly made further progress impos
sible, I dropped my pack (now gro'wn very heavy) and sat upon
it, to write a few loving words to the dear ones at home — possiblj'
the last — before the fast deepening twilight, and increasing chilli
ness, had forever banished the opportunity; thinking, also, that
when the melting snows of spring had fed the rills, some kindly
feet would perhaps wandei in search of or for whatever remained
of the lonely traveler, and thus find the memoranda. The entry
finished, upon looking up I saw that the clouds which had pi-e-
viously draped the forest and the mountain, so that the limit of
vision was only a few yards off, had lifted and drifted among the
tree-tops, so that from my resting-place I could look down some
three thousand feet upon the river, where to my ineffable joy I
could see green grasses growing, and flowers blooming — and no
more ,snow! It was A LOOK INTO PARADISE.
Tired? Oh ! dear no ! Before this strength-giving sight, it seemed
utterly irapossible to advance another quarter of a mile, even
to save one's life. But, now, the pack was again shouldered,
and, " like a giant refreshed with wine," long and rapid strides
were made down the mountain ridge, to the promised land, which
was reached about an hour after dark. Out of the snow, the
muscle-testing, patience-trj'ing snow! I thanked God with a
grateful heart. I have often thought since, that the most gifted
of singers could never make the song of " The Beautiful, Beauti
ful Snow " attractive to me. Even when sweetly sleeping that
night, beneath the protecting arras of an out-spreading live-oak
8

114 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
tree I forgot all my troubles, but one — the snow, the snow, the
unfeeling, the never-yielding, the ever-bullying snow. For months
afterwards, in my dreams, it was a ghost-shadow, in white — a
ghost that would not be "laid" — and was always present.
Awaking on the raorrow ray gladdened eyes at first looked,
doubtingly, on these new surroundings; but, when thoroughly
satisfied they were not the creations of an exuberant fancj', a
spring of unalloyed, full-hearted, grateful joy began to well up
within me, and one that has ever since kept flowing, whenever
memory has brought those circumstances back again into review.
AN OBSTACLE AHEAD.
The frowning face of a lofty bluff, not far above ray encamp
ment, became suggestive of possible trouble in ascending the river,
without crossing to the opposite side. This must be ascertained.
Taking precautionary measures for insuring the safety of my
limited supply of provisions, by tying them to the limb of a tree
and allowing it to revert upwards, with ax in hand I started.
Fears were soon verified by facts. There were but two alterna
tives left me : the northern bank of the foaming and angry river
must be reached, or the snowy wastes above again sought. I had
surelj' seen enough of the latter, and would therefore choose the
former. A tall tree was selected for felling, and the ax applied;
but such was the exacting tax upon physical strength for the last
six daj's, that but a very small chip was returned for each stroke.
Still, it was a chip ; and, if I did not succumb to discouragement,
every blow must ultimately tell, and compel the tree to fall, and
forra a bridge for my deliverance. About noon exhaustion
compelled a short respite from labor, the soothing and renewmg
influences of refreshing sleep, and the replenishment of the inner
man. On the way to my supplies, to ray astonishment and
raoraentary disconiflture, in the distance I saw a large animal
of sorae kind, and that, too, beneath the very tree in which my
liraited stock of provisions was stored. A nearer approach dis
closed the unwelcorae presence of

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 115
A FULL GROWN GRIZZLY BEAR.
Candid confession must be made that this discovery was not
a little startling at first, especially as my only weapons were an
ax, and two limber limbs with which to run away, had I been in
condition. What should I do? What could I do, but .stand in
safety behind a rock, and watch his movements? My usual self-
possession soon returning, this could have been done with con
siderable interest and amuseraent, but for an anxious consideration
for the safety of my supplies, to rae invaluable under present
circurastances. Bruin's grotesque and ludicrous antics, in his
effbrts to clutch thera, for the raoment absorbed all sense of dan
ger, to either mj'self or my food, by their diverting clumsiness.
Now he would sit upon his haunches, apparentlj' ruminating
upon some plan that should successfully put him in possession of
that which his keen sense of hunger scented from afar. Then he
would rise upon his feet, and, by a side lunge, atterapt to catch
hold of a bough with his fore paw; siraultaneously throwing the
weight of his huge body upon the opposite hind foot, as though
by this he hoped to stretch himself to the required length, to secure
the much-coveted pinze — but missed it every time. Unlike a pas
senger once seated at the dinner-table of a Mississippi steamboat,
who, being curtly and surlily asked, by his fellow-passenger, " Can
you reach that butter?" iraraediately stretched out his arm, as
though about to comply, when he withdrew it, without passing
the article in question, and answered, stutteringly, "Ye-ye-yes,
I c-c-can j-j-just r-r-reach it!" There was this difference, then,
between the gentleman and the butter, and the grizzly with the
pack — one could reach it, and the other could not.
Finding his efforts still unrewarded, and the smell alone
possibly being altogether too unsatisfying, he began to cast wistful
glances at the trunk of the tree, and along its branches, as though
cogitating upon the possibility of securing the coveted treasure
by climbing the tree. Doubt evidently had changed to hope, for,
dropping to his feet, he ran with a bound to the tree, and began
to scramble up it. But, either his body was too heavy for its

116 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
strength, or, there was an uncommendable lack of will-power—
an occasional experience in similar fornis of the genus homo —
inasmuch as less than half of the height had been overcome, when
he began to hesitate, then to back down. Fearing, however, that
the pangs of hunger might provide bruin with sufficient intelli
gence to encompass their capture, and my dismay, I struck a
rattling blow upon a large hollow log, accompanied with a loud
shout ; when, looking around towards the spot whence the noise
proceeded, he started upon an ambling run in the opposite
direction, and was soon lost in the distance. It may not be neces
sary here to aver that not a single ' arrow of sorrow pierced my
heart at his abrupt departure.
After rest and refreshment, the attack was renewed upon the
tree; and, about three o'clock that afternoon, it began to give
preraonitions of a downfall. As Mungo Park once said, when
suffering with thirst upon the deserts of Africa, and heard the
croaking of frogs, knowing that the sound was indicative of
water being near, with gladness exclaimed, "It was heavenly
music to my ears;" so was the cracking of that tree to me.
Luckily it fell just right, and reached the other side. Creepuig
across it — I was too weak to walk it — I discovered signs of a
dim and almost unused trail, passing up the northern bank of the
river. This augured successful progress in the right direction.
Returning to camp, a fresh supply of bread was raade up,
and baked upon hot rocks in front of the fire, or upon dried sticks; •
and on the following day ray journey was renewed. For three
days I threaded my way among bowlders, creeping under or
over, or lowering rayself between thera, or worked it through
underbrush; but as there was no snow to encounter, and the
close of each day showed encouraging progress, every indication
was in favor of a hopeful _^na?e. On the night of the third day
in the river caiion, and the tenth of my lonely pilgrimage, I suc
cessfully gained the object of my earnest yearnings, and undis-
couraged efforts. I had reached the valley, and, with syrapathetic
Cowper, felt: —

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 117
"0 scenes surpassing fable, and yet true
Scenes of accomplished bliss; which who can see.
Though but in distant prospect, and not feel
His soul refresh 'd with foretaste of the joy."
Especially after such experiences. Once here, and out of the
unknown region wherein I had been a wanderer, every water-fall
and mountain peak were dearly "familiar to rae as household
words." My heart seeraed to leap with very joj'. In spirit I
metaphorically erabraced thera as well-known friends. Believe
me, there was real felicity enjoyed at such a moraent, for I was
truly happy. And "When the shore is won at last.
Who will count the bi.lows past ? "
A grateful addition to ray gladness of heart at reaching the
desired goal was the discovery that snow did not interpose any
insuperable obstacles to a safe residence in the grand old valley
during winter— and that Dame Ruraor, as usual, was in error.
It is true there were numerous patches of snow, several feet in
depth, hidden away in shady places ; but nearly the entire surface
of the valley was found to be free from it. This, the sole object
of ray eventful journey, being demonstrated beyond preadventure,
after a brief rest, I left the valley on the eleventh day, and, about
noon of the day following, arrived at a little quartz-mill, far
down in the caiion of the Merced, where I once more looked upon
a huraan face. I wili leave others to guess, for they cannot fully
realize, how delightfully welcome was that sight to rae. If any
one entertains a doubt of this, let hira pass eleven days, alone,
without it.
Upon the return of my corapanions to the settlements without
me, and the story being told of my having started on through the
deep snow, alone, there were gloomy forebodings expressed of ray
never again being seen, alive. Colonel Fine carefully treasured
the note of thanks I had sent him for the use of his donkey, think
ing to forward it to my friends, as possibly the last souvenir from
me! Inthis they were fortunately disappointed.

CHAPTER X.
EARLY-DAY EEVIEWALS.
Variety's the very spice of life.
That gives it all its flavor. — Cowper's Task, Bookll.
To-day is not yesterday: we ourselves change; how can our works and
thoughts, if they are always to be fittest, continue always the same?
— Carlyle's Essays.
Tliere comes to me out of the Past
A voice, whose tones are sweet and wild,
•Singing a song almost divine.
And with a tear in every line. — Longfellow.
After the experiences narrated in the preceding chapter, a
second visit was paid Yo Seraite in the ensuing summer, for the
purpose of a thorough examination of the valley, with reference to
a suitable location for our proposed new home. The choice fell
upon the site since generally known as " Hutchings' ;" and negotia
tions were comraenced for purchasing the possessory right of two
preemption claims, of 160 acres each, out of which to establish
one deemed the most desirable. Owing to sundry delays, from
various causes, these were not consuramated, and the improvements
thereon acquired, until the spring of 1864, when terms were satis
factorily agreed upon ; and we set out, with all our household and
other wares, arriving, and taking possession, April 20th of that
year — 1864. PRIMITIVE METHOD OF TRANSPORTING SUPPLIES.
At that tirae all our furniture, stores, tools, and other articles,
had to be carried fifty miles on the backs of mules and horses.
The pack-train was not only the connecting link between comfort
and privation, but the interposing medium between plenty and star-
(118)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

119

vation ; consequently packing,
from its necessities, was ele
vated into a science, the pro
fessors and experts of which
weie Mexican muleteers.
The equal balancing of the
pack, and the skillful fasten
ing of it upon the animal,
required knowledge, as well
as practice and care. It
was a serious matter to have
a pack become loose, or one
sided, as this called not onlv

FASTENING ON THE PACKS.

for its re-adjustment,
but, frequently, for re
packing. Then the de
lay thus caused brought
other trouble, inasmuch

IN TROUBLE FROM A LOOSE PACK.
as while this was being
cared for, the remaining ani
mals of the train were loiter
ing; when others would lie
down to rest; and, either
by an atterapt to roll over,
or in the effort to get up, so
disarrange their load as to
necessitate a repetition of the
service. This often became quite a severe tax upon the packer's

MEXICAN PERSUASION.

120

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

patience (time was seldora an object of consideration with repre
sentatives of this race in California), seldom an over-abundant
article in the possession of a Mexican — and, it might be added.

with people of other nationalities besides.
Its lack too frequently developed excesses
in temper, attended frequently with much
brutality ; and this very naturally reacted
upon the animal's resentment of a wrong;
and, possibly, gave rise to the expression,
"stubborn as a mule."
INTELLIGENCE OF MULES.
There is something very pleasing and
picturesque in the sight of a large pack-
train quietly ascending or descending a hill, as each animal care
fully examines the trail, and raoves cautiously, step by step,
especially on a steep and dangerous declivity, as though he sus-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 121
pected danger to himself, or injury to his pack. This is par
ticularly noticeable on passing down a steep snow bank, when
heavily packed; for, as they cannot step forward safely, they
so dispose their feet, and brace their lirabs, that they can, and
do, unhesitatingly slide down it with their load, in perfect safety.
I have seen a train of fifty do this. In sorae of the more remote
settlements, the arrival of the pack-train was an event of im
portance only secondary to that of the expressman, or the mail-
carrier ; and its unpacking watched with as much eager interest
as though it was expected that sorae old-tirae friend would eraerge
from between the packs.
ENORMOUS WEIGHTS PACKED BY MULES.
The average weights carried would generally range within
two hundred and three hundred pounds; although, in some
instances, they have been far in excess of this. When the Yrelia
Herald was about to commence publication, in 18-52, a press was
purchased in San Francisco at a cost of $600, upon which the
freight alone amounted to $900. The "bed-piece " weighed three
hundred and ninety-seven pounds, and, with the aparajoes, ropes,
etc., exceeded four hundred and thirty pounds, which was the
actual weight of the load. On descending Scott Mountain, the
splendid animal carrying this load slipped a little, when the pack,
over-balancing, threw the raule down a steep bank, and killed it
instantly. In the fall of 1853 an iron safe, nearly three feet
square, and weighing three hundred and fifty-two pounds, was
conveyed on a very large mule, from Shasta to Weaverville, a
distance of thirtj'-eight miles, and over a rough and raountainous
trail, without an accident; but, after the load was taken off, the
mule lay down, and died in a few hours. A reliable gentleman
informed me that in 1855 two sets of millstones were packed from
Shasta to Weavervflle, the largest weighing six hundred pounds.
Deeraing it an impossibility for one raule to carry either, it was
tried to "sling" one mill-stone between two animals; but that,
proving impracticable, the plan was abandoned, and it was after
wards packed, safely, upon one.

122 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
KIND OF MULES PREFERRED.
Mexican mules were considered the most desirable, frora their
being accustomed to that work ; and, having been less tenderly
reared than the American, were less liable to disease. The Mexi
can mules, raoreover, are credited with being tougher and stronger
than the American ; and can travel farther without food than any
other quadruped. It is assumed also that this class of animals
can carry a person forty miles per day, for ten or twelve consecu
tive days, and over a mountainous country ; while it is difficult
for an American mule to accomplish over twenty -five or thirty
miles per day. Be this as it may, the Mexican prefers the mule
of his own country to that of ours, because he considers the latter
altogether too delicate for his use. There is another reason — and
a verj' effective one with a Mexican — they can always be kept
fat with little care, and less to eat, and that at irregular intervals;
while the American mule, to do about half the amount of work,
requires good food, regularly given, and to be otherwise well
cared for. They seldom drink more than once on the warmest of
days, unless their efforts are very exacting and prolonged. The'
average life of a mule is given at sixteen j-ears ; although Cali
fornia muleteers used to assert that "a mule never dies, but
simply dries up." A PROCESSION OF ODDITIES.
One used to be astonished at the singular variety of articles
moving along on the backs of animals, such as buggies, windows,
cart-wheels, wagon-sides, boxes, barrels, bars of iron, tables, chairs,
bedsteads, plows, and mining tools; and not alwaj's with the
greatest of safety. Once a rocking-chair and large looking-glass
were sent us, but, when they reached their destination, the chair
was broken into pieces, and the looking-glass resembled a crate of
smashed crockery. On the second trip of our packer to Yo Semite,
the entire train, frightened at some sight by the way, " stam
peded;" when books and jellies, pictures and pickles, and other
sundries, were all indiscriminately mixed together, or scattered in
all sorts of places, by the roadside.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

123

PRECAUTIONS ADOPTED BY PACKERS.
The Mexicans almost invariably blindfold each mule before
atterapting to pack it; after which he stands perfectly quiet,
until the bandage is removed, no matter how unrulj' his behavior

THE PACK-TRAIN AT NIGHT.

was before. A mulatero generally rides in front of the train
for the purpose of stopping it, when anything goes wrong, and
becomes a guide to the others; although in every band of horses
or mules, there is always a leader, generally known as the " bell

124 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
mule," or horse — and it is not a little singular that nearly all
mules prefer a white horse for that purpose — which they unhesitat
ingly follow the moment he starts, or wherever he goes, by day
or by night.
When about to camp, the almost invariable custom of packers,
after removing the goods (by which they always sleep in all kinds
of weather), is for the raules to stand side by side, in a line or
hollow square, with their heads in one direction, and each one in
his custoraary place, before taking off the aparajoes;* and, in the
morning, when the train of loose mules is driven up from pasture,
to receive their packs, every one walks up to his own aparajoe
and blanket, with the precision of well-drilled soldiers, and rarely
makes a mistake.
Notwithstanding the Mexican packer's seeraing nonchalance,
it is alraost incredible the amount of danger and privation they
uncomplainingly undergo, when exposed to the elements. This
can be raore clearly apprehended when the fact is presented that,
during one severe winter, there was
A PA-CK-TRAIN SNOWED IN
Between Grass Vallej', Nevada County, and Onion Valley, Sierra
County, when, out of forty -eight aniraals, only three were taken
out alive. The packers, unable to get firewood, narrowly escaped
perishing, frora being frozen to death. Their sufferings were inde
scribable ; J'et, when safely out of it, they only laughed at their
experiences. On one occasion our pack-train was several hours
belated; and, as snow had been falling in heavy flakes all the
afternoon, every passing rainute only increased our weight of
anxiety for its safety. There was no use in further delay ; for it
must be sought after, and helped, if help was needed. Throwing
the saddle across my horse, and taking some well-lined saddle
bags, I sallied out upon the storm. The animal's spirited move
ments proved her to be in perfect sympathy with the occasion, as
*An aparajoe is a kind of pack-saddle, or flattish pad, the covering of which
is generally made of leather, and stuffed with hair. As they are considered safer
and easier for the animal than the ordinary pack-saddle, they are always preferred
by Mexicans, although their weight is from twenty-five to forty pounds.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

125

though it was intuitively understood and appreciated. As deeper
grew the snow, the stronger came the effort to overcome and con
quer it, and that too with a conscious pride which seemed to rise
in proportion to the difficulties to be surraounted. Those who

CARRYING DELIVERANCE.

could abuse such invaluable and noble servants ought never to
have the privilege of owning or of using one.
On, on, we dashed, through the almost blinding snow, and,
just before dusk, in the near distance, broke the welcome sight of
the heavily-laden pack-train. With it was the anxious Mexican,
earnestly engaged in the attempt to release a load from a fallen
mule, whose foot had found a hole in the trail. When he saw me,
his somber face becarae aglow with pleasure, and his tongue spon
taneously found musical utterances of joy. As soon as the mule
was set free, we both tried the possible good that might come from
a good drink of aguardiente; and then, although the Mexican's
hands were numb, and his limbs nearly stiff with cold, the pack

126

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

was cheerily replaced, and we started on for home and shelter.
Huraan help and brandy arrived just in time to save both man
and beast. The most rabid advocate of "total abstinence,"
whose reason had not been dethroned, would, I think, concede
the advantageous use of stimulants, at such a time, if only as
a medicine. At least let us hope so, if only to accord to him
the credit of possessing ordinarj' common sense.

CAUGHT IN A SNOW-STORM.

Upon relating the incident to the late Mr. Charles Nahl,
who was unquestionably the best draftsman of animals upon the
Pacific Coast, he made the accompanying sketch to illustrate it.
At a glance it will be seen that the skill of the artist not only
portrays the limbs of the raules in snow, but the determined
effbrts being made to get them out, in order to secure deliverance
and safety for themselves, and riddance for their packs.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 127
"improvements" I.V THE VALLEY.
These were found to be very liraited, as they consisted of a
two-story frame building, sixty by twenty feet, having two
rooras, an upper and a lower. Its doors and windows ¦were made
of cotton cloth. Verily, a primitive beginning for novices in hotel
keeping. When our first guests arrived (and their arrival caused
quite a flutter in the household), the ladies were domiciled up
stairs, and the gentlemen clown. This arrangement we felt not
only had its inconveniences, but was contrai-y to law, inasrauch
as it sometiraes separated raan and wife. So novel a disposition
of visitors, whose naraes, many of them at least, were already
inscribed on the temple of fame, only became a subject for mirth-
fulness, never of censure. They saw that we were attemping our
best — and the very best among us could do no more — and
accepted it accordingly.
This, however solacing to our sensibilities, was not satisfying
to our convictions. We determined upon changing it. But
how? The nearest saw-mill was some flfty railes distant, and
over a mountainous country, that was only accessible over steep
and zigzaging trails. We knew that almost anything could.be
packed upon mules ; we had even seen our donkey trotting along
with two wagon-sides upon him, when only the tips of his ears
and the lower part of his limbs weie visible ; but how could lum
ber be packed fifty railes? This, therefore, was given up as
Quixotic. Bolts of muslin could be packed, and were; and
rooms were accordingly raade out of that. Guests, in this way,
were thus provided with apartraents, it is true ; but, unless their
lights were carefully disposed, there were also added unintentional
shadow-pictures, which, if contributory of rairthfulness in a
maxiraura degree, gave only a minimum degree of privacy in
return. Better accommodations must be provided, no matter at
what cost the lumber might be procured. Two men were accord
ingly engaged to run a human saw-mill.
This method of producing lumber is generally called "pit-
sawing." Owing to the severity of the winter, the long absence

128 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
of sunshine, and the difficulty of obtaining logs, less than fifteen
hundred feet were cut that entire season. This set us to consider
ing how many thousand years, more or less, would roll into the
past, before an adequate stock of tiraber could be sawed for mak
ing the iraproveraents absolutely necessary. Questioning the
probability of so long an extension of life's lease, the irons for a
young
saw-mill, to run by water,
v/ere procured from San Francisco, and a man employed to con
struct it, who professed thoroughly to understand just how to do
it ; but, when the finishing touches were about to be added, it was
discovered that the thing wouldn't inn at all; and, before the
needful changes could be made, the water decreased so rapidly
that even the testing of its capabilities were on the outside of the
question. Unlike a prosy politician who, while making his speech,
paused to take a drink of water, when his opponent started to
his feet, and thus addressed the presiding officer: "Mr. Speaker,
I rise to a point of ordei." " The member from  will please to
state his point of order." " My point of order is this, Mr. Speaker:
Is it in order for the member from  .to atterapt to run his
vjind-mill bj' water?" W-hether that point of Order was sustained
or not (the fact being unrecorded), we knew that we had made a
double discovery for ours; for it would not run either with or
without water, and, although in pos,session of a saw-mill, we were
as far off as ever from a supply of luraber.
When the richly colored leaves of auturan were being picked
off rapidly by the nightly freezing fingers of the frosty air, and
the wind in frolicsome gustiness had begun to drop thera sportively
on shady pools, or in running strearas, or to pile them playfully
in eddies, and hide them cautiously in sequestered corners, busi
ness in Yo Semite had becorae as quiet and subdued as nature is
after a storra — " And only soft airs and sweet odors arise.
Like the evening incense that soars to the skies" —
And this suggested the present as a propitious season for renew-

f'hoto. hy r.fo J-iiAe

The Three Brothers-Pom-pom-ps-sh.
(See pages 395-6 J

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 129
ing our attempts at improvements. In this mood the saw-mill
was revisited, and its possibilities reconsidered. An inexperienced
examination levealed a serious error in its construction, inasrauch
as the water, when the gate was lifted, rushed to the axle, instead
of to the outer edge of the buckets in the driving wheel, and inun
dated it. No wheel could work under such conditions. It must
be changed ; but how ? when ? and by whora ? My knowledge of
mechanics was about as limited as that on hotel keeping. There
was one comforting refiection stepped in to my assistance, — it was
of no earthly use as it stood, therefore, its loss, should it be utterly
spoiled, would only be nominal. I would try to correct the error
so strikingly manifest. Tools were therefore biought, and the
apparently desirable change made.
"eureka."
Fortunately a heavy rain came, opportunely, to enable me
to make a testing experiment. Tiraidly and cautiously lifting
the gate, a little water was admitted to the wheel. It turned
briskly round. An additional quantity promptly increased its
speed. With joy, although alone, I shouted, " Eureka ! " Lumber
might yet be obtained from it. Carefully setting and filing the
mill-saw — ray first atterapt — a sraall log was fastened in its place,
and the mill started. To my joj-ful surprise the cut was cora
pleted to the end without stopping. Again the word "Eureka"
was on ray lips, but was arrested by the thought — " Is it straight,
and true? " It was. At this twofold .success a boisterous shout of
exultation at once relieved my joyous feelings. One cut con
tinued to be successfully made after another ; so that when the
day clo.sed, there was one-fourth as much luraber sawed, single-
handed, as the two men had made in a whole winter ! Day by
day the quantitj' produced increased so encouragingly that we
felt justified in employing a good practical sawyer, and with
hira a couple of carpenters, so that the ranch-needed improve
ments could be comraenced with satisfactory earnestness, and
presumptive hope of ultimate and early realization. It was a
"one-horse " saw-mill that opened to us the gold discovery. 9

130 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
progress toward comfort.
The ring of the hamraer and soft, rasping sound of the saw,
now added their rausic to that of the water-all and singing pines,
and cloth partitions soon becarae nurabered among the make-shifts
of the past. The old house was rejuvenated by porches, and
made convenient by lean-to's, in which were kitchen, store, and
sitting-room — now known as " The Big Tree Room ;" about which,
and its associations and stories, more will be said hereafter.
Buildings, made necessary by the rapidly increasing throng of
tourists, began to spring up as though by magic, and no sooner
was one completed and occupied than another was required. The
return home of one party of visitors, mentally full to overflowing
with praises concerning the wonderful sights they had seen, super
induced others to seek sirailar delights. As illustrative and
demonstrative of this, the following carefully prepared table is
heiewith submitted, of
tourist travel to yo SEMITE.
From 1855 to 1864, a period of nine years, the aggregate
number of visitors to the valley was 653.
In 1864  147
In 1865 it increased to  369
In 1 8(36 it increased to  438
In 1867 it increased to  5U2
In 1868 it increased to  623
In 1869 (the year the overland railroad was completed) it increased to. . . . 1,122
In 1870 it increased to  1,735
In 1871 it increased to  2,137
In 1872 it increased to  2,354
In 1873 it increased to  2,530
In 1874 it increased to  2,711
In 1875 it decreased to  2,423
In 1876 it decreased to'  1,917
In 1877 it decreased to  1,392
In 1878 it decreased to  1,183
In 1879 it increased to  1,385
In 1880 it increased to  1,897
In I88I it increased to  2,173
In 1882 it increased to  2,525
In 1883 it increased to  2,831
In 1884 it decreased to  2,408
In 1885 it increased to  2,590
By this it will be seen that previous to our advent there, for

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 131
permanent residence, in 1864, the full complement of visitors, as
compiled from the registers of that period, was 653. Those
unregistered would probably swell the number to about seven
hundred— in nine years. It is also interesting to note that the
total nuraber for 1864 was 147; and this included every man,
woman, and child that entered it, of whatsoever color or condition.
INFLUENTIAL HELPERS.
The table here presented will also show the steady increase
in numbers from year to year, as a knowledge of its marvelous
grandeur -was disseminated by returning visitors, by newspaper
and book eulogiums, by photographs and paintings, and by
lectures. Nor will justice to the earnest first workers in this
deeply interesting field, both in literature and art, permit me to
omit such names as Horace Greeley, Samuel B. Bowles, Albert D.
Richardson, Charles L. Brace, Prof. J. D. Whitney, Dr. W. A.
Scott, Rev. Thos. Starr King, and a host of others, whose books,
newspaper articles, and lectures, contributed so largely to extend
the farae of the great Valley : Or of C. L. Weed, its pioneer photog^
rapher. and C. E. Watkins, who had no .superior in photographic
art, and whose excellent prints have found their way to exery
corner of civilization. And, though last, by no means least,
must be mentioned such etuinent artists as A. Bierstadt, Thos.
Hill, Williara Keith, Thos. Moran, P. Munger, A. Hertzog, and
many more whose paintdigs have so much contributed to the
public appreciation of its sublime scenic wonders. In subsequent
times, and additional to the above, should be included the suc
cessful labors of Benj. F. Taylor, Helen Hunt (Jackson), Marj' E.
Blake, and a multitude of other writers: Thos. Houseworth, Gei).
Fiske, Taber, J. J. Reilly, S. C. Walker, G. Fagersteen, and other
photographers: C. D. Robinson, R. D. Yelland, Holdridge, and other
artists — and all worthy helpers in advancing its renown.
NEED for india-rubber ADAPTABILITY.
At the commencement of this encouraging influx of tourists,
our utraost accoraraodatlons, priraitive as thej' were, were liraited

132 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
to enough for twenty-eight. On one occasion, when every room
was occupied, and just as all were about retiring for the night,
the muffled tread of horses, mingled with the sound of human
voices, was heard upon the outside. To our dismay we learned
that a party of eleven had just arrived ! What could be done,
when every sleeping-place already had its occupant? Dumb
founded with surprised regret, the situation was explained to the
new arrivals.
" Cannot take care of us, did you say?"
" That is really the case, as every bed we have has now a
tenant." "But, what can we do, Mr. H.? We are all tired out —
especially the ladies — and there is no other place where we can
go? " (at that time ours was the only inn at Yo Semite.)
" Such an inquiry I know is very pertinent at such a time.
Well, come in, and we will do the best we can to make you com
fortable. Impossibilities raust be made possible under such cir
curastances." " Thank you — and God bless you."
These glad tidings were soon communicated with an exult
ant shout to those outside, and "three cheers" frora the tired
travelers rung out upon the silent midnight air, sufficiently loud
to awaken the now surprised sleepers. Fortunately a bale of new
California blankets had been received but a few days before, and
with these we improvised both beds, and covering. Provisions
were abundant.
While supper was progressing with comraendable zeal, and
apparent satisfaction, new sounds seemed to be floating on the
darkness, and the astounding levelation came with them of the
arrival of eight otheis ! Good Heavens ! why India-rubber con
trivances would be inadequate for such emergencies. Any num
ber of queries at best, however, would prove but indifferent sub
stitutes for bedding and food. These, too, raust be cared for, in
sorae way. And they were. The antiquated proverb, " It never
rains but it pours," now became strikingly illustrated; for, before

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 133
morning dawned, other arrivals had increased the number of
guests to fi;ty -seven! twenty-eight, be it reraerabered, being the
raaxiraura limit in accommodation. The most remarkal defeature
of this then unparalleled advent of visitors remains to be told:
Twenty-seven departures occurred one morning, nineteen the fol
lowing, the next day every one of the remainder left us, and but
five persons, altogether, arrived at Yo Seraite in thirty-one days
thereafter! Such experiences are by no raeans proportionally
infrequent in hotel life here, even at this present day.
As time gently lifted its misty veil new revelations of majesty
and beauty were almost constantly being added to the already
comprehensive galaxy of wonderful sights, and the necessities of
the hour called for the surveying and constructing of horse-paths
to these newly discovered scenic standpoints. Bridges were built,
and wagon-roads made passable on the floor of the valley, to sub
serve the convenience of those who were unable to enjoy the
exhilerating exercise of horse-back riding. This progressive
development, moreover, was, at that day, accoraplished entirely
by private enterprise.
In due season new hotels sprung up into existence; and, in
addition to "the butcher and baker, and the candlestick maker,"
carae the store, the blacksmith's shop, laundry, bath and billiard
rooms, cabinet shop for Yo Semite-grown woods, and other con
veniences needed by the incoming visitor.
As the history of Yo Semite, for nearly a quarter of a cent
ury, has been so closely interwoven with the filaments and threads
of one's own life, it raakes it difficult to draw the line of demark
ation between that which should be introduced, and such as
ought to be ommitted. In this, as in several other raatters, I hope
to bespeak the reader's discrirainating sympathy and kindly for
bearance should any desirable facts be unrecorded, or undesirable
ones find a place.

CHAPTER XI.
CABIN HOMES AT YO SEMITE.
You must come home with rae and be my guest;
Yon wilt give joy to nie, and I will do
All that is in my power to honor you.
— Shelley's Hymn to Mercury.
No little room so warm and bright,
"Wherein to read, wherein to write. — Tennyson.
The glorious Angel, who was keeping
The gates of light, beheld her weeping;
And, as he nearer drew and listen 'd
To her sad soag, a tear-drop glisteu'd
Within his eyelids, like the spray
From Eden's fountain, where it lies
On the blue flow'r, which — Bramins say —
Blooms nowhere but in Paradise.
— Moore's Lalla Rookh — Paradise and the Peri.
There are probably not raany persons, even when philosophic
ally predisposed, who can fully coraprehend the possibility of
comfort and contentment in such an isolated locality as Yo Sem
ite, for a home in winter as well as in suraraer, unless in unison
with the sentiraents of Euripides, that, ' ' Not uiine
This saying, but the sentence of the sage
' Nothing is stronger than necessity.' "
But if to this be added a suggestive stanza frora Mary Howitt:
' ' In the poor man's garden grow.
Far more than herbs and flowers.
Kind thoughts, contentment, peace of mind.
And joy for weai'y hours,"
There may be disclosed the soothing sedative of resignation to
tolerate and endure it. Still, to the raany, every raoment of
such a life would bring its burden of irksoraeness, and perhaps of
134

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

135

absolute repugnance, if only from its apparentlj- unrelieved
monotonousiiesH. So much, however, are we dependent, not onlj'
upon ourselves, but upon each other, for mutual assistance and
happiness at such a time, that we can either make or mar its
pleasures, as we may elect. Isolation does not necessarily foster
loneliness or inquietude, only as our own waywardness or neglect
may leatl to these. The piincipal objection to such a life is in its
utter helplessness in tinies of
sickness and danger, or of
death, especially when — as in
our experience — our nearest
neighbor was thirty railes
away, and beyond raountains
that were impassable.
After satisfactory deraon
stration that a residence at
Yo Seraite in winter was pos
sible, as narrated in a preced
ing chapter, Mr. Jas. C.
Lamon, who formed one of
our setting-out party on that
occasion, was the first to try
the experiment, and spent the
winters of 1862-63 and 1863
-6 'i there entirely alone. As
Mr. Lamon was long and
favorably known by visitors,
not only for his uniform kindness and many raanly virtues, but
as one of the early settlers in Yo Seraite, I feel that this work
would be incomplete without his portrait and a brief biographical,
outline. Mr. James C. Lamon was born in the State of Virguiia in
I8I7. In 1835 he eraigrated to Illinois; and frora there to Texas,
in 1839. In 18.51 he arrived in California, and located in Mari
posa County, where, in connection with David Clark, he engaged

JAMES O. LAMON.

136

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

in the saw-mill and lumber business, until 1858. In June, 1859,
he arrived in Yo Semite, and assisted in buflding the upper hotel,
since known as the Hutchings House. In the fall of that year
he located a pre-emption claim at the upper end of the valley;
cultivated it for garden purposes, planted a fine orchard, and
built

THE LAMON CABIN.
THE FIRST LOG-CABIN IN YO SEMITE.
By his indomitable will, assisted by his general intelligence
and unflagging industry, to which were united habits of. temper
ance and frugality, and the denial to himself of many comforts,
he caused the .spot known as Lamon's Garden, once a wilderness,
"to blossom as the rose," and "Lamon's Berry Patch" and
orchard, to becorae .synonymous with enjoyment; the memory of a
visit to which was pleasurably treasured by tourists, throughout
the civilized world.

TIIE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 137
As the lofty raountains surrounding his cabin and garden
threw long and chilling shadow-frowns upon hira during winter,
he erected a small house on the sunny side of the vallej- ; and, as
a precaution against Indian treachery, lived in its basement.
This, however, being flooded during a heavy and continuous rain,
he afterwards built a coraraodious log-cabin, that, upon emer
gency, might be to him both a fortress and a home. The
land around it he fenced and cultivated; and it now — under
the vigilant care of Mr. A. Harris — presents a picture of pastoral
loveliness which is in striking contrast to that outside of it.
COMMISSIONERS AND STATE ACTION.
Notwithstanding these valuable and attractive additions to
the enjoj'ments of the valley, the Board of Yo Seraite Corarais
sioners declined in every way to recognize his rights as a hona
fide settler, and he — with the writer — was notified that he id ust
take a lease of all his premises from them, on or before a given
tirae, or leave. As neither of us would accept either of these
alternatives, there ensued the conflict briefly outlined in the suc
ceeding chapter, which resulted, flnally, in the State's recog
nizing at least the equities of our clairas, and the payment to Mr.
Lamon, in 1874, of $12,000 as corapensation therefor.
HIS DEATH.
This modest sum, the fruits of fifteen years' laborious toil,
although so rauch calculated to sraooth the pathway of his declin
ing years, by lifting him above financial care, was, in its enjoy
ment, of very brief duration; for, just as he had begun to realize
the full fruition of its blessedness, death came with
" That golden key
That epes the palace of eternity, "
May -l-l, 1875, at the age of 58 ye.ars. His remains are interred
in the Yo Semite Cemetery, near Yo Semite Falls, araid the scenes
of grandeur he loved so well; and here a monolith of Yo Semite
granite marks the spot where he rests.

138 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
HIS SUPPOSED MURDER.
Incidental mention is above raade of Mr. Lamon's residence
in the Yo Semite Valley two winters alone, without a neighbor,
or even a friendly dog, to keep hira company.* Supplemental to
this there is a sequel that deserves a kindly record : While thus
passing his lonely existence there, an Indian had been seen in the
settlements with a fine gold watch, that, it was surmised, belonged
to Mr. Lamon. Fearing that its supposed owner had been mur
dered, as well as robbed, three friends left Mariposa — one of whom
was Mr. Galen Clark, for many years the guardian of the valley,
and stfll a rauch respected resident there — for the purpose of
ascertaining the facts of the case. Upon arrival, to their great
joy, they found the man, presumably murdered, busily engaged in
preparing his evening meal. Both Mr. Lamon and his watch
were proven to be safe. It can readily be conjectured that their
congratulations and rejoicings must have been mutual, although
viewed from widely different standpoints.
THE HUTCHINGS CABIN.
"Of all the homes that Ihave seen, in all my travels, this is the most delectable."
— Canon Kingsley.
As the sun did not rise upon the hotel until half past one in
the afternoon, and set again, there, at half past three; so small a
modicum of sunlight caused us to look out from the depressing and
frosty shadows of our mountainous surroundings, to the bright
ness of the opposite side ; and created within us a longing for the
sunlight that was there bathing every tree and mountain with
cheerfulness and joy. " Ah ! " we would all spontaneously ejacu
late, "that is the place to live, in winter." Even the poultry,
that huddled together in a corner shiveringly, would look at us
with seeraing reraonstrance, as though they would admonish us to
remove thera over there.
"Besides," the ladies would exclaim, "how beautifully pict
uresque a log-cabin would look over yonder in the sunlight, with
*He was never married.

PHOAOGRNPH B^f GtO ?\5^t

Ht\.\OTXPV PTG. CO. BOSTOH, \*^'^0

HUTCHINGS" OLD CABIN. YO SEMITE.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 139
a dark rich .setting of oaks aiound it; to say nothing of the pleas
ure of listening to the grandest of perpetual anthems frcjm the
Yo Semite Fall, just at its back; or of the homelike comfort there
would be within and around it."
A site possessing the qualitic.'s deemed most desirable was
accordingly selected, and a "log-cabin," in all its .symraetrical pro
portions and artistical surroundings, began to stand out upon the
landscape. How cheerily anxious did the gentler sex watch the
placing of each and every log, and sometimes assisted in putting
thera in position. By degiees, and with the assistance of our
neighbor, Mr. Laraon, and his cattle, it was finished. One rock
formed the mantel, and another the hearth-stone, of our broad and
cheery open fire-place. Our greatest trouble was with the chim
ney — it would smoke. Everybody, "including his wife," is
familiar with the adage that " a smoking chimney, and scold
ing  , etc. [we had not the latter], are among the greatest
trials of life." Finally, by raeans of books (for we had no practi
cal knowledge) we learned that "a chiraney, to draw well, should
never be less than twice the size of the throat, frora the latter to
the top, which should alwaj-s be above the house." This principle,
when applied to ours, made it an eiuinent success. And this item
is here introduced for the benefit of those having, that dire inflic
tion — a smoky chimnej'.
The cabin, therefore, with all its comfort-adding appoint
raents, became a delightful reality, and soon .sheltered a happy
and contented family, though entirely isolated from the great
throbbing heart of the world outside. On bright days we enjoyed
the blessed sunshine from nine in the morning until half-past
three in the afternoon — a gratifying contrast to the other side —
and, -when the storm swooped down upon us, we listened thank
fully to the rausic of the rain upon the roof, and to the wind
among the tree-tops, or the rushing avalanches down the mount
ain-sides; or watched the crystal forms of the fast- falling snow
ui)on, or from, our windows; or our busy little .snow-bird guests
eating their daily meal of crumbs from off the window-sill.

140 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
THE TRUE SECRET OF HUMAN HAPPINESS.
It must not, however, be supposed that our daily life here
was like that pictured by some dreamy Christians of the life
hereafter — " sitting, placidly, on a cloud, and blowing a silver
trumpet." Far from it. Every day brought its duties, in fair
weather or in foul. Here, too, we learned a secret, and one worth
revealing, as it is one in which the daily happiness of all largely
consists — it is that of having constant and pleasant occupation,
for both body and mind. This will count better in results, and
go farther, than any number of gilded theories, for this life or
the next. There are always to be found some kindly services to
be rendered, or duties to be perforraed, not only in the family
circle, but in the teeming world around us, if we do not allow
ourselves to shirk them. And, believe me, the noble and con
scientious performance of a generous act, brings with it a full
and present reward, without waiting for that- expected in the
hereafter. To those who have both leisure and means — and they
must be poor indeed who h^ve not sorae — I would say, " Know
you not some poor child, or woman, or man, to whom you can
carry some blessing, if oniy that of help and sympathy?" By so
doing, you not oniy assist to make up their heaven, and an
earthly one for yourselves, but, in ray judgraent, rauch better please
the loving God, whora you profess to serve. If there should ever
corae a new religion, it will be founded upon huraanity, as being
more nearly akin to the beneficent and ennobling plan of the
Infinite One. Think of this.
Returning from this diversion, if you could have taken a
glirapse on the inside of our cabin on a winter's night, you would
have seen not only a bright log fire, and clean hearth-stone, but a
little circle of bright faces; alraost aglow with watching the
phantora forras that raight corae and go among the scintillations
of the blazing heat; or, with busy thoughts were weaving gossa
mer plans of future happiness; while nimble fingers were plying
the needle, or knitting yarn that had been carded and spun
from Yo Semite-grown wool, with their own hands.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 141
We professed to take turns at reading, aloud, from some
mutually interesting book; but the writer discovered that the
recurrence came most frequently to the occupant of the large home
made manzanita chair. Remonstrance even only brought back
the rejoinder that, as he had no sewing or knitting to do, and was
such an excel — etc., etc., reader, it would seem most eminently
pi'oper.that he should favor the company with another chapter!
Sometiraes a song, at others a garae of whist, or euchre, would add
a pleasing variety to the entertainment. Saturday evenings were
especially devoted to cards and song, as then our only neighbor,
Mr. Lamon, would come out frora his herniit-like solitude and
grace the circle with his presence, and cheer it with his converse ;
occasionally dining with us on Sunday afternoons. It raaj- appear
almost incredible to confess that, notwithstanding this constant
round of seeming saraeness and isolation, there was an utter
absence of the feeling of loneliness. Many tiraes the query has
been put, questioningly, "Do you not feel such entire seclusion
frora the w-orld oppressive?" and the response was promptly and
conscien tiousl J' returned, " No. We should, perhaps, if we had
time to think about it ! "
Thus our long winter evenings and stormy days, while put
ting us into enjoyable social communion with each other, supplied
also the opportunity of conversing with great authors, through
their works, of which, fortunately, we had nearly eight hundred
voluraes, collected, mainly, while publishing the old-tirae Califor
nia Magazine. Our summers were made delightful by pleasant
converse with the kindliest and most intelligent people upon earth,
many of whora were eminent in letters, in science, and in art.
Who, then, with this elevating companionship, and its many
advantages, united with such sublirae surroundings, could help
loving the Yo Semite Valley, and being contented with it as a
home, even though isolated frora the great world outside?
In after years, as residents in the valley became raore nu
merous — and some winters since then we have had over forty,
including chfldren — the circle of neighbors proportionately

142 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
extended, and our divertisements would include parties, sleigh-
rides, and snow-shoe excursions.
THE ORCHARD AND STRAWBERRY PATCH.
The spring succeeding the corapletion of the cabin, called for
the cultivation and fencing of a garden-ground, and the planting
of an orchard. Many of the trees for the latter were grown
frora seeds of choice apples that had been sent us, the plants from
which were afterwards budded or grafted. In this way a thrifty
orchard, of about one hundred and fifty trees, carae into being,
and now bears many tons, annually, of assorted fruit.
To this, in due time, was added a large strawberry patch,
that afterwards becaine faraous frora its productiveness and the
quality of its fruit. Here perhaps may be given a single illustra
tion of the difiiculties to be overcome in such a far-off corner of
the earth. The pomological works of the day were full to over
flowing with praises of a certain variety of this valuable berry.
Specimens were sent for, the price asked accorapanying the order.
When the plants arrived, owing to the raails of that day coming
by Panaraa, and the necessary delays attending their delivery in
the Valley, they were all dried up and dead. Others were ordered,
which, upon arrival, were falling to pieces from excessive
moisture. The mail-bag containing the next parcel, owing to its
too closs contact with the steamship's funnel, was nearly burnt
up, and with it the new invoice of strawberry plants. As it is
never wise to becorae discouraged, or to give up until you win,
in ,sorae forra, or prove such a feat to be impos,sible, still others
were sent for ; and this tirae with success, as thirteen living plants
rewarded our perseverance. These thirteen sraall rootlets cost us
exactly $45.00. Still, what was that sum in coraparison with
their future value? With careful culture, these increased to
thousands; and raany of the largest bunches produced nearly two
hundred berries each ! In after-times, delicious strawberries could
be gathered ad libitum; what, then, was $45.00 for such a lux
ury? especially when to this is added that of success.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 143
PLANTING AN AVENUE.
To connect the high ground near the hotel on the south side
of the valley with that at the cabin on the north side, and at the
same tirae make the Yo Semite Fall and other attractions acces-
.sible to visitors, a causeway was thrown up across the interven
ing meadow, and an avenue of elms planted on either side, that
were grown from seed sent us by the Rev, Joseph Worcester
of Waltham, Massachusetts. But few of these now survive,
as, during my absence in the raountains on one occasion, sorae
t'houghtless young men cut them down for walking-canes, and
carried thera ofl! I hope when they see this, they will feel their
cheeks warm with .shame ; but I would not go as far as Young, in
his "Night Thoughts," and say,
" Shame burn thy cheeks to cinders,"
As that would be rather too severe and heavy a penalty.
BRIEF ABSENCE FROM THE V.ALLEY.
Owing to the current of events briefly chronicled in the ensu
ing chapter, necessity, not choice, impelled my absence from the
valley for a season ; inasrauch as the Board of Corarais.sioners, of
that tirae, became so much angered at my unfaltering persistency
in resenting their claims, that they would not even lease to rae the
old preraises, after all other raatters had been adjusted, and the
title to both land and improvements had legally passed into their
hands. They evidently overlooked the fact that I was contend
ing for a home for my faraily and self, and to which we believed
ourselves honorably entitled under a United States general law
— a horae made sacred, too, by many raeraories, and where each of
our three children were born — and ray convictions then, as now,
were that any man who would not defend his hearth- stone and
his home, to the last drop of his life-blood, when he felt that
right was on his side — even when against "forty millions of
people,"* and a half dozen Boards of Commissioners thrown in —
belittled his manhood, and proved himself unworthy of the respect
*See chapter XII.

144 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
accorded to his race. Those very Coraraissioners, if standing in
my place, would (I hope) have acted as I did. It is much to be
regretted, however, that some of those men stfll live, demonstra
tively, for no other purpose than to perpetuate their old antagon
isras. I am their superior in one thing — I have learned to forgive.
Life is too short, and too uncertain, to fritter it away in unprofit
able and ignoble frictions, and has a holier raission.
By an Act of the State Legislature, at its session of 1880,
and a subsequent decision of the Supreme Court, the old Board of
Commissioners was retired, and a ne\\ one appointed by the
Executive in its place, April 19, 1880. The new Board elected
the writer "Guardian of the Valley;" and, upon my return, Mr.
John K. Barnard, the lessee of my old premises, with considerate
and large-hearted kindness, again placed the dear old cabin
indefinitely at my disposal ; and through his continued courtesy,
it has been my fondly cherished residence ever since.
But it is not to be supposed that so rare and supernal a
flower as unalloyed happiness could ever germinate and bloom in
earthly dwellings. This would be to convert terrestrial habitations
into celestial. Hence the angel of sorrow, and, alas' of death,
with drooping or baneful wings, is frequently, though uninvitedly,
perraitted to enter huraan Horaes and hearts. It was thus with
us. Our gifted daughter Florence — given to us during the event
ful first year of our residence here, and whose birth was note
worthy from the fact that she was the first white child horn at
Yo Semite — was called away from us in her eighteenth year, just
as she was Ijlooming into womanhood and great prospective use
fulness. With agonized hearts, and, seemingly, helpless hands,
' ' We watched her breathing through the night.
Her breathing soft and low.
As in her breast the wave of life
Kept heaving to and fro.

' Our very hopes belied our fears.
Our fears our hopes belied;
We thought her dying when she slept.
And sleeping when she died."

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 145
Nor was ours the only Yo Semite home thus visited at this season;
as Effie, the beautiful step-daughter of Mr. J. K. Barnard,
" Passed through glory's moming gate.
And walked in Paradise"
Only about thirty days before. The portrayal of this dual loss and
affliction, so feelingly presented by my late beloved and gifted
wife, Augusta L., is gratefully transcribed frora the San Fran
cisco Evening Post, for which she was special correspondent: —
Big Tree Room, Baenaed's Hotel, (
Yo Semite Valley, Sept. 28, 1881. )"
It has seemed that the Angel of Death had overlooked this " gorge in
the mountains," but at length he has learned how sweet were the flowers
that bloom in our beautiful valley. First, he came for our lily — sweet,
gentle, spiritual Effie, beloved daughter of this house. For a long time
he stood afar off, and sent only withering glances and baleful breath,
under which she slowly drooped and faded from our sight, till her life
passed away wdth the summer, for on its last day she left us for a home
among the angels. Gifted with rare esthetic tastes and talents, which
these grand scenes were developing and cultivating, she would doubtless
have been prominent among those who shall interpret and perpetuate by
their sketches, the poetic beauties of Yosemite. We chose her ft final
resting-place ina grove of noble oaks, where Tissaac, goddess of the valley,
keeps constant watch; and the sun's last rays, reflected from her brow,
give each evening their parting benison upon her slumbers, while the
singing waters of Cholock'* murmur an eternal lullaby.
As we were around her grave, rendering the last services, prominent
over all, in a band of young friends singing " Safe in the Arms of Jesus,"
stood the glorious rose of this wild nature — Florence ("our Floy"), eldest
daughter of Mr. Hutchings, guardian of the valley. Full of exuberant,
gushing life, she has shed far and wide its fragrance. The child of the val
ley, for she was the first white child born within these inclosing walls, and
the greater part of her life spent here, her whole being was permeated
with its influences. Nothing daunted her, nothing gave her so much
pleasure as the occasion to help others. Generous, unselfish, her deeds of
kindly courtesy will long be remembered by a vast number of visitors,
who have enjoyed their benefit and been interested in her bright, original
thoughts; for her mind, though unsystematic in its training, was well
*The Yo Semite Fall. 10

146 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
stocked with good material, and she was rapidly developing into a grand
woman. But again the dread angel looked down, and without waiting to give
warning to those who held her close to their hearts, with one fell swoop
caught her to his breast, and bore her away; that the Lily and Eose
might bloom side by side, in a garden where no frost can blight, no tem
pest uproot, and the ever-outgoing perfume of their blo.ssoms shall enter our
lives to purify and bless them. So we have laid her, who, only a week
before she was called away, was climbing heights and scrambling through
ravines where only eagles might be looked for, under the same oaks with
EflSe; and the dearly loved friends in life, who there seemed to us to be so
quietly resting together, are doubtlessly wandering hand in hand through
fairer scenes than even these they loved and enjoyed so much.
Oh ! the questionings that come up as to the why and the wherefore.
As an Indian woman, with a puny, sickly infant, bound in its basket, that
has been wailing and whining all its little life of two years, unable even
to sit or crawl, came to take a last look at the plucked Eose, I could not
but ask myself why such an apparently useless and burdensome existence
was allowed to go on, while the helpful, earnest, energetic life had been
quenched. But " God knows."
Mr. Eobinson, , the artist, from San Francisco, who, in the absence of
a clergyman, read the solemn burial service of the Episcopal Church, as
Mr. Hutchings had done upon the former sad occasion, read also the fol
lowing beautiful IN MEMORIAM.
Florence Hutchings, born August 23, 1864. Died, Septem er 26, 1881. Of
a bold, fearless disposition, warm and generous temperament, fir advanced and
original in thought beyond her years, with a kind word and pleasant greeting for
every one. Always ready to do a self-denying action, or an act of kindness; siich
was she who now lies cold and pallid before us. She was the first white child
ever born in the Yosemite Valley, and the same giant walls that witnessed her birth
shall keep watch and ward over her grave through all time. The music of the
great Cholock that sang in cheerfulness through her infancy and childhood, shall
chant an eternal requiem over her early grave. Here, in her grand and lonely
home, where almost every rock, tree, and blade of grass were known lo her, and
were her playthings and playfellows in childhood, and the objects of her contem
plation and veneration in youth, shall she lay down to her calm and peaceful
rest. Eternal music shall be hers — the winds sighing through the tall pine trees,
the murmur of the great water-falls, and the twilight calls of the turtle doves to
each other from their far-off homes, the heights Tocoyse* and Law-oo-too. All
*North. and South Domes.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 147
nature unites to lull to rest and peace and quiet the gentle dead. So, friends,
temper your griefs to calmness, with the consolation that if the loss is yours,
the gain is God's.
Ahwahnee," who could protect its first born in youth and life, will guard her
with a, loving mother's embrace in death. Let us leave her in resignation and
cheerfulness, knowing that it is but a span between the hour that has called her
from us, and the one which is lo summon us also to the unknown, whence
no one returns. And as she calmly lies, with all nature whispering love and pro.
tection over her last resting-place, let us in reverence depart, and leave her soul
in joy and peace, safe in the aims of the good and great God who gave it, for so
brief a season, to gladden her parents' hearts, and bloom within the world.
Mr. B. F. Taylor, in his charmingly sunny book, "Between
the Gates," page 238, makes the following suggestion: "Letus
give the girl, for her own and her father's sake, sorae graceful
mountain height, and, let it be called ' Mt. Florence!'" This
compliraentary suggestion, through the kindness of friends, has
been carried out; as one of the formerly unnamid peaks of the
High Sierra now bears the narae of " Mt. Florence." This is best
seen and recognized from Glacier Point, and Sentinel Dome.
In less than six brief weeks after our daughter Florence had
passed through the Beautiful Gate, the unwelcome angel again
visited the old cabin, and this time carried away the devoted and
beloved companion of my life, ray beloved and devoted wife, after
an illness of only a few hours. Without lingering too long upon
these chastening experiences, let me add that her endearing
qualities may be sumraed up in one expressive line : —
" Think what a wife should be, and she was that.''
The beautiful gems of art that still adorn our cabin within are
nearly all the work of her own hands and skill; and, with many
other souvenirs, the creations of her own genius, are ever cherished
as sacred raeraories, memoria in atternd.
When the raystic ligature of love joins huraan hearts, and
the vacant chair tells, silently, of the enforced absence of its once
loving occupant, bringing back reminders of happy greetings ere
you crossed the threshold, as of life's long sumraer's day of joy,
*The great Indian chief of an-tiquity.

148 IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
to be yours with them no raore — it is then, ah ! then, that real
loneliness strikes horae to the heart.
Much of this, however, has been alleviated in past years by
the many kindnesses of visitors who have honored and brightened
thc old cabin with their cheering and refining presence; and to
its occupant have given unalloyed pleasure by their refreshing
converse. It has been his acceptable pastime for many years to
gather any fragmentary curios that were representative of moun
tain life and circurastances ; such, for instance, as the cones and
seeds of the different kinds of pine and fir, and other forest trees
¦ — including those of the Big Tree with its foliage and wood;
specimens of our beautiful ferns, and flowers; Indian relics, with
samples of their food; pieces of glacier-polished granite; snow-
shoes (of home manufacture), for both valley use and mountain
clirabing ; and those used upon horses for sleigh-riding and haul
ing over the mountains, and about which more will be said here
after. In grateful return for the honor of a visit, he has tried
to explain these, and given the why and the wherefore concerning
them ; and, moreover, still cherishes the hope of its indulgence for
many years to corae.
At the west end of the cabin is a small workshop (a necessary
appendage to an isolated life and residence), which also answers
for a wood-shed in winter. At the back is another lean-to, which
comprises a kitchen, pantry, and store-rooms, and at the eastern
end a bedroom. The attic, or roof-room, is soraetiraes also used
as a sleeping apartment— and once, during a heavy flood (to
be talked over by and by) as a place of refuge for ourselves and
household wares, when the waters were at their highest.
A little west of north from this spot, apparently but a short
distance oflf, while in reaUty it is nearly three-quarters of a mile
away, the Yo Seraite Fall makes a leap of over two thousand five
hundred feet over the edge of the cliff, and in one bound clears
fifteen hundred feet. The surging roll of the music frora this fall is
a constant and refreshing lullaby to sluraber, and never wearies.
With so many enduring charms, then, is it a wonder that one
clings with admiring fondness to such a home?

CHAPTER XII.
CONGKESSIONAL AND STATE ENACTMENTS CONCEENING
YO SEMITE.
Think that day lost whose low descending sun
Views from thy hand no noble action done. — RoBAR-r.
That action is best which procures the greatest happiness for the greatest
numbers. — Hutchinson's Moral Goo I and Evil.
I have always thought the actions of men the best interpreters of their
thoughts. — Locke's Human U'nd'>rstanding, Book I.
While some of the occurrences narrated in preceding chapters
were transpiring, the Hon. John Conness, U. S. Senator for
California, in concert with Mr. I. W. Raymond and others, con
ceived a plan for the cession, by Congress, of the Yo Semite Val
ley, and its more imraediate surroundings, with the Mariposa Big
Tree Grove, to the State of California, for the purpose of setting
thera apart, and protecting them as public parks. Mr. Conness
accordingly introduced the following bill in the United States
Senate, which was promptly passed by both branches of Con
gress : — •
An Aot authorizing a grant to the State of California of the " Yo Semite
Valley'^ and of the land embracing the Mariposa Big Tree Orove.
ACT OF CONGRESS GRANTING YO SEMITE TO THE STATE.*
Be it enacted by the Senate and Ilouse of liepresentntives of the
United States of Amerioa in Congress assembled: That there shall be.
and is hereby, granted to the State of California the " cleft "or " gorge "
in the granite peak of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, situated in thecounty
"See United States Statutes at Large, for IS64, page 325. (149)

150 IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
of Mariposa, in the State aforesaid, and the headwaters of the Merced
Eiver, and known as the Yo Semite Valley, with its branches or spurs,
in estimated length fifteen miles, and in average width one mile back
from the main edge of the precipice, on each side of the valley, with the
stipulation, nevertheless, that the said State shall accept this grant upon
the express conditions that the premises shall be held for public use,
resort, and recreation; shall be inalienable for all time; but leases not
exceeding ten years may be granted for portions of said premises. All
incomes derived from leases of privileges to be expended in the preserva
tion and improvement of the property, or the roads leading thereto; the
boundaries to be established at the cost of said State by the United
States Surveyor-General of California, whose official plat, when afiirmed
by the Commissioner of the General Land Office, shall constitute the evi
dence of the locus, extent, and limits of the said cleft or gorge; the
premises to be managed by the Governor of the State with eight other
Commissioners, to be appointed by the Executive of California, and who
shall receive no compensation for their services.
Sec 2. And be it further enacted: That there shall likewise be, and
there is hereby, granted to the State of California the tracts embracing
what is known as the " Mariposa Big Tree Grove," not to exceed the
area of four sections, and to be taken in legal subdivisions of one quarter
section each, with the like stipulation as expressed in the first section of
this Act as to the State's acceptance, '«dth like conditions as in the first
section of this Act, and to be taken in legal sub-divisions as aforesaid; and
the official plat of the United States Surveyor-General, when aflBrmed by
the -Oommisi-ioner of the General Land Office, to be the evidence of the
locus of the said Mariposa Big Tree Grove.
Approved, June 30, 1864.
The news of this generous donation was first made known to
the California public through the colurans of the San Francisco
Evening Bulletin of August 9, 1864, as we had no raflroads or
telegraph lines across the continent in those days. In prompt
responsive acknowledgement on the part of file State was issued
THE governor's PROCLAMATION.
State or Calieoenia, Executive Department, )
Sacramento, September 28, 1864. (
Whereas, The United States, by an Act passed at the first session
of the thirty-eighth Congress, has granted to this State the territory com
prising the " Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Big Tree Grove," to be

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 151
held and used for the purpose mentioned in said Act; and whereas
it is also provided in the Act that the management and control of the
tracts of land shall be confided to a Board of Commissioners to be
appointed by the Governor.
Now therefore, be it known, that 1, Fred'k F. Low, Governor of the
State of California, by virtue of the authority in me vested, have
appointed Feed. Law Olmsted, Prof. J. D. Whitney, William
Ashbuener, I. AV. Eaymond, E. S. Holden, Alexander Deering,
Geoege W. Coulter, and Galen Clark, said Commissioners, to whom
is confided the management of the aforesaid tracts of land. And 1 hereby
warn and command all persons to desist from trespassing or settling upon
said territory, and from cutting timber or doing any unlawful acts within
the limits of said grant.
All propositions for the improvement of the aforesaid tracts of land,
or for leases, should be made to the Commissioners, through Fred. Law
Olmsted, Bear Valley, Mariposa County.
In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the
Great Seal of the State of California to be affixed, this twenty-eighth day
of September, 1864.
[L. S.J FEED'K F. LOW,
Governor of California.
Attest: B. B. Eedding, Steretary of State.
By F. W. Eedding, Deputy.
During the sixteenth session of the State Legislature was
enacted the following: — ACT OF ACCEPTANCE.
An Act to accept the grant by the United States Government to the State
of California of the Yosemite VaUey and the Mariposa Big Tree
Orove, and to organize the Board of Commissioners, and to fully
empower them to carry out the objects of the grant and fulfill the
imrposes of ihe trust. {Chap. DXXXVIofthe Statutes of California
passed at the 16th Session of the Legislature, 1865-66.)
Wherbas, By an Act of Congress entitled an Act authorizing a
grant to the State of California of the Yosemite Valley, and of the land
embracing the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, approved June 30, A. D., 1864,
there was granted to the State of California in the terms of said Act said
Valley and the lands embracing said Grove upon certain conditions and
stipulatioas therein expressed; now, therefore.
The people of the State of California, represented in Senate and
Assembly, do enact as follows: —

152 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Section 1. The State of California does hereby accept said grant
upon the conditions, reservations, and stipulations contained in said Act
of Congress. Sec. 2. The Governor, and the eight other Commissioners, Frederick
Law Olmsted, Prof. J. D. Whitney, William Ashburner, I. W. Eaymond,
E. S. Holden, Alexander Deering, George W. Coulter, and Galen Clark,
appointed by him on the twenty-eighth day of September, eighteen
hundred and sixty-four, in accordance with the terms of said Act, are
hereby constituted a Board to manage said premises, and any vacancy
occurring therein from death, removal, or any cause, shall be filled by the
appointment of the Governor. They shall be known in law as " The
Commissioners to manage the Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Big
Tree Grove," and by such name they and their successors may sue and be
sued, and shall have full power to manage and administer the grant made
and the trust created by said Act of Congress, and shall have full power
to make and adopt all rules, regulations, and by-laws for their own govern
ment, and the government, improvement, and preservation of said premises
not inconsistent with the Constitution of the United States or of this
State, or of said Act making the grant, or of any law of Congress or of the
Legislature. They shall hold their first meeting at the time and place to
be specified by the Governor, and thereafter as their own rules shall pre
scribe, and a majority shall constitute a quorum for the transaction of
business. They shall elect a President and Secretary, and any other
officers from their number as their rules may prescribe.
Sec. 3. None of said Commissioners shall receive any compensation
for their services as such. They shall have power to appoint a Guardian
either of their number or not, of said premi.ses, removable at their pleasure,
to perform such duties as they may prescribe, and to receive such com
pensation as they may fix, not to exceed five hundred dollars per annum.
Sec. 4. The Commissioners shall make a full report of the condition
of said premises, and of their acts under this law, and of their expendi
tures, through the Governor, to the Legislature, at every regular session •
thereof. Sec. 5. The State Geologist is hereby authorized to make such further
explorations on the said tracts and in the adjoining region of the Sierra
Nevada Mountains as may be necessary to enable him to prepare a full
description and accurate statistical report of the same, and the same shall
be published in connection wdth reports of the Geological Survey.
Sec 6. It shall be unlawful for any person willfully to commit any
trespass whatever upon said premises, cut down or carry off any wood,
underwood, tree, or timber, or girdle or otherwise injure any tree or tim
ber, or deface or injure any natural object, or set fire to any wood or grass

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 153
upon said premises, or destroy or injure any bridge or structure of any
kind, or other improvement that is or may be placed thereon. Any per
son committing either or any of said acts, without the express permission
of said Commissioners through said Guardian, shall be guilty of a mis
demeanor, and on conviction thereof shall be punished by fine not exceed
ing five hundred dollars, or by imprisonment in the county jail not
exceeding six months, or by both such fine and imprisonment.
Sec. 8. This Act shall take etfect immediately.
Approved April 2, 1866.
ADVERSE ACTION TOWARDS THE SETTLERS.
This liberal and conservative concert of action between Con
gress and the State of California, was doubtlessly made with the
implied understanding that no private rights were in any way
invaded or jeoparded thereby. In this, however, subsequent pro
ceedings proved that both the contracting parties were in error;
inasrauch as the Board of Commissioners, created by the foregoing-
acts, notified Mr. J. C. Lamon and myself- — the only bona fide set
tlers — that we must take a lease of the preraises occupied by us
from them, on or before a given time; or, failing to do this, they
would lease them to other parties, " and, early in the ensuing
spring, take all necessary measures for installing the new tenants
into possession."
Under the beguiling hallucination that the Preemption La-vys
of the United States were a sacred compact between the Govern
raent and the citizen, I took the liberty of notifying the Secretary
of the Board, in reply, that in ray judgment it would be time
enough for the Commissioners of the Yo Semite Valley to exercise
authority over my house, or my horse, or anything that I pos
sessed, after they had proven a better title to either than I had
got, and that I remained very respectfully, etc.
SUIT OF EJECTMENT COMMENCED.
Believing that bona fide settlers were intrenched and fortified
behind the bulwarks of National Law as well as of right, and^
never doubting of ultimate .success, the raarch of iraprovement
kept commensurate progress with the constantly increasing arm.y

154 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
of visitors. But about a year after the service of the notice above
mentioned, the terms of which had been declined, a legal bomb
was thrown into our raidst, in the shape of "a suit of ejectment"
against the writer, as a test case for all parties.
STATE ACTION IN THEIR BEHALF.
While this action was in abeyance in the District Court, a
memorial to the State legislature was prepared, and numerously
signed by a large majority of the prominent residents of the
county of Mariposa, asking favorable legislation in behalf of the
Yo Semite settlers. This was accorded by an Act passed in the
Asserably by a vote of 55 to 9, and in the Senate with only two
dissenting voices, surrendering to Mr. Lamon and rayself all the
State's right, and title to each of our quarter-sections. Resolu
tions were also adopted raeraorializing Congress for confirraation
of the sarae. This act not receiving the approval of the Governor,
H. H. Haight, it was carried over his veto, by a vote of 41 to
II in the Assembly, and by 27 to 10 in the Senate, thus raaking
it a State law, notwithstanding the objections of the Governor.
By some kind of clerical hocus pocus, however, this enactment
was spirited away (?) and could not be found in time for its incor
poration among the printed laws of that session ; although it had
received the necessary .signature of the presiding officers of both
Senate and Asserably ! It was afterwards resurrected from some
vaulted recess of the State capitol, and is now among the archives
of the Secretary of State.
Inasmuch as the State's favorable course in our behalf
required the indorsement of Congress, to give it full legal effect,
and establish a perfect title in us to the land thus settled upon,
the meraorial adopted by the Legislature, and another numerously
signed, frora citizens, with a certified copy of the Act, were
transmitted to Congress through the Hon. Geo. W. Julian, Chair
man of the Committee of Public Lands, of the House of Repre
sentatives, asking Congressional action upon this question.
Through the infiuence of Mr. Julian — who has always been the

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 155
uncompromising friend of the settler — and the unanimous vote
of the Comraittee of Public Lands, an Act passed the House
embodying the necessary provisions, without a dissenting voice.
Owing, however, I deeply regret to say, to the most grcjssly
unfair and untruthful representations of its enemies, when the
measure was considered in the Committee of Public Lands of the
United States Senate, a majority of one caused an unfavorable
report to be adopted by that comraittee; and no action was taken
upon it in the Senate, before Congress adjourned.
Be it reraerabered that until Congress had ratified the action
of the legislature of California in our behalf, the homes we had
founded in this wild gorge of the mountains, and every dollar
expended here, were in jeopardy, notwithstanding thc beneficent
provisions of the United States Preijraption Laws. It is only just
here to state that the Board of Coraraissioners considerately
refrained from pressing their suit of ejectment, for a tirae, after
State action in our behalf, pending that of Congress, for or
against us ; but, finally, calling it up for trial in the District Court,
owing to its unquestioned equities, judgraent was entered for
defendant, and against the Board of Commissioners.
As notice of appeal to the State Supreme Court had lieen
filed, and fearing that the same ruling might be made there in
this as in the Suscol Ranch case, although widely differing to the
latter in many of its conditions and merits, Congressional action
was again .sought. In hopes of preventing the defeat this time of
so pre-erainently just a measure, by questionable if not positively
dishonorable means, and to be present to meet any stateraent or
inquiry, I visited Washington the ensuing winter, determined
that the case should have fair play, if possible, whether it stand
or fall thereby.
AN INCIDENTAL DIGRESSION ABOUT A VISIT TO WASHINGTON.
I hope to be forgiven for a short digression here, if only to
show how an obliging act will sometiraes secure for the doer the
honor ( !) of a' title. During the suraraer of 1869 — the year the

156 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
great overland railroad was opened from Omaha to Sacramento
— the " corps editorial " was largely represented from the Eastern
States, as visitors to California and Yo. Semite, and among them
sorae from Washington, D. C. At that time the only turnpike-
road nearing the valley still lacked twenty-five railes of comple
tion, and the intervening space between the stage and the Valley
being over a moimtain trail, could only be traveled on saddle
animals. As necessity required that I should supply these, and
a certain kind of superintendence was needed, I had ridden to the
western end of this intermission of country, and was returning^
when I met a passenger far behind his companions, who was in
trouble with his unpersuasive horse. I of course .stopped, and
asked the reason, when the following colloquy ensued : — •
"Mr. H., I cannot induce this animal to keep up with the
others. How is it?"
"He knows that you are a tourist, and is making the best
of his knowledge."
" What ara I to do? At the rate I am traveling I shall not
be able to reach the station by midnight ! "
"Take my horse — he will carry you through, on time."
"What! Change animals, here, on the road?"
" Certainly. Mine will attend strictly to business, and,
when your's finds out that I am his rider, he will also make the
discovery that I ara not a tourist, and will give me no trouble."
The exchange was accordingly raade, and, waving a hasty adieu,
each started at a lively gait, in different directions. This gentle
raan proved to be one of the editors of a Washington evening
paper. Upon my arrival at the nation's capital, and accidentally
meeting the before-mentioned editor, he gave me most cordial
greeting, with invitations to dine with him, etc. ; and in the issue
of his paper of that evening there appeared a notice that "Colonel
H  of Yo Seraite, had arrived, and would be warraly welcomed
by his many friends," etc., etc. On the succeeding day we again
met, and indulged in the following confab : —

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 157
"I see that I am promoted!"
"Yes! How is that?"
" I have always understood that I belonged only to the ' full
privates ; ' but I see by your last evening's  that you have
promoted me to be a Colonel ! " '
With a mischievous twinkle lurking in the corner of his eye,
came the courteous reply: "Ah! that's all right When you
have been a resident of Washington as long as I have, you will
find that a stranger coraing here, without a title, is placed, socially,
at great disadvantage, and I thought you deserving of a good
send off! Besides, whenever I have reiuein bered that horse trade
we made upon the mountain trail, I have laughed over the inci
dent, many tiraes. I am convinced that instead of proraoting
you to be a colonel, only, I ought to have made you a general —
and will, next time (!)."
BEFORE THE UNITED STATES SENATE COMMITTEE OF PUBLIC LANDS.
Upon the reassembling of Congress, the Act which passed the
House of Representatives at its previous session, was again intro
duced by Mr. Julian, and again promptly passed by that body.
Taking the usual course of sirailar raeasures, it was again referred
to the United States Senate Coraraittee of Public Lands. Deeply
anxious that no act of oraission or of coraraission on ray part
should endanger its successful consideration before that committee,
(and let it not be overlooked that I was working in the interest of
our little raountain horaes) I first waited upon its chairraan —
then Senator Pomeroy, of Kansas — and explained to him the
whole matter. Looking me straight in the eye, he thus addressed
me: — "Do you say, sir, that you are a settler in Yo Semite Val
ley?" " I do, Senator." " What is the actual date of your settle
ment there ? " Responsive to this inquiry I supplied Senator Pora
eroy, not only with the day of ray settlement there, and that of
those whose possessory rights I had purchased, but also with Mr.
Lamon's — the time and circumstances of which are narrated in the

158 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
preceding chapter — accoihpanying these with the substantiating
testimonials of prorainent Californians, well acquainted with the
facts. After a long pause the Senator again addressed me as
follows : —
REPREHENSIBLE REPRESENTATION IN THE UNITED STATES SENATE.
" Mr. Hutchings, .sir, I am perfectly astounded at your state
ments, the proofs of which are positive and incontrovertible.
Why, sir, I distinctly remember when the raatter was under
discussion in the United States Senate, putting this question to
Senator Conness, the author of the Bill : ' Are there any settlers
upon that land?' — accorapanying the question with the remark
— 'because, if there are, their rights must be respected,' and the
senator from California made answer, 'No. Notone(!).' With
that assurance I gave my fullest support to the Bill."
But for this foundationless statement, then, there can arise
but little doubt that the rights of settlers at Yo Semite, as else
where, would have been protected. Here originated the wrong
doing ; and the successive troubles that beset and followed us in
after years. And sacredly do I treasure, and would here most
gratefully record, how steadfastly the sentiment and sympathy
of the California public continued with us, to brighten and cheer
us, even to the end. Subsequent action, also, abundantly proved
that if the State, at any time, had desired the homesteads of the
Yo Semite settlers, it would have made honorable provisions for
acquiring thera — not wrested thera wrongfully away from them.
MISTAKEN "PUBLIC POLICY."
" Public policy " was the raisleading and delusive key-note
struck for prevaricating and unprincipled opposition to the meas
ure. " It was a question between forty millions of people and
two men," reasoned the adversary. (It is hoped that becoming
credit will be accorded the " two men " for having pluck enough
to "breast the breach" against "forty millions of people!")
Conceding this, would not the "forty millions" — a few of the
meaner ones excepted, perhaps — have preferred the equitable

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 159
acquisition of our legally obtained lands — legally obtained, if the
Preemption Laws meant anything, notwithstanding the technical
rulings of the courts — than to wrest them wrongfully from us,
even though it should have taken the one-thousandth part of one
raill eaeh, raore or less, frora the aforesaid " fifty raillions of
people" to have accomplished this.
no'w INTERVALS OF LEISURE WERE EMPLOYED.
Of course necessary delays would continually occur in the
action of Congressional Committees, and from other causes; delays
that would have proven a heavy drain upon one's patience as
well as finances, had I not devoted the interim to the apparently
accepted mission of my life — the dissemination of knowledge on
the charming realities of Yo Semite. To accomplish the one, and
subserve the other, therefore, in addition to frequent visits to
Washington for conferences with Congressional members, I gave
sorae eighty-seven illustrated lectures on Yo Seraite, sometimes to
audiences of over three thousand. Tbe results of this action were
three-fold; first, in giving pleasant occupation to leisure hours;
second, by assisting my finances (Mr. Lamon being too poor to
contribute anything) ; and, third, by inviting the interested atten
tion of the public to the marvelous grandeur of the scenerj' of Yo
Semite, that afterwards induced many thousands to visit it : And
who, I trust, were never sorry for so doing.
TAKING AN UNFAIR ADVANTAGE.
Notwithstanding these opposing forces from without, a
raajority of the United States Senate Coramittee of Public Lands
expressed themselves to the writer as holding the above-mentioned
views of the case, and for favorably leporting the Bill; yet, in
the absence of .some friends of the measure, when its consideration
was entertained in that committee, a raajority of one was secured
against it, just as that session of Congress was closing; when it
M'as assigned to the unfinished business of the Senate — and con-
sec^uently again to defeat.

160 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
RULINGS OF THE SUPREME COURTS.
Meanwhile, the Board of Commissioners appealed from the
decision of the District Court, to the State Supreme Court, where,
under the ruling of the Supreme Court of the United States, in
the Suscol Ranch Case, while admitting in its decision that I was
a bona, fide settler upon the land before it was donated to the
State, had lived upon it ever since with vt\y family, and was
ready at any tirae to prove up my preemption claim, and to pay
the purchase money, whenever the land could have been surveyed.
Ruled:— " If a qualified preemptioner enter upon a portion of the public
domain, with the intention to preempt the same, and performs all the
acts necessary to perfect his preemptive right, except the payment of the
purchase price, the Government may, nevertheless, at any time before the
price is actually paid, or tendered, devote the land to another purpose,
and thereby wholly defeat the right of preemption." — California Reports,
July. 1871, Vol. 41, pp. 658-9.
Although this judgment was appealed, from the State Su
preme Court to that of the United States, it was afterwards
aflHrmed by that body, as their action could not be made retro
active frora their decision in the Suscol Ranch Case.
POSSIBLY AN ARROGANT ASSUMPTION.
It may seemingly appear an act of supererogation, if not of
arrogant assumption, on the part of any one, especially of lawyers
who are eminent in their profes.sion, to interpret the decision of
the Suprerae Court in the Suscol Ranch and Yo Seraite cases—
although not analogous in their equities — as traversing the well-
understood and beneficent provisions of the Preeraption Laws, and
subverting the covenantal principles of a general law to subserve
a specific purpose, and one that could have been better proAdded
for some other way. There is evidently a broad foundation
for questioning the soundness of this ruling, as the settler has
an abundant surplus of difficulties to overcorae, without their
unnecessary increase, involving the title to his land. The " unpar-

Piioto.hyS. C. Jl'ni/.' '.
The Yo Semite Fkll-Cho-lock-in Early Spring
(Sec pa,ge 377.)

pti ,i„-t^,r'h' '-'^-'"'"' ^-' ^^y, ^ ^-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 161
donable sin " assumed to have been committed liy the settlers at
Yo Semite was twof(dd — one, in choosing so wildly picturesque a
portion of tbe public domain whereon to form a home; and the
other to stand up manfully in its defensi-, after some one else
wanted it. Herein lay the extent of their sinning, and the hein
ousness of their offenses. Had their choice fallen upon some
shelterless desert, no envious motive would have prorapted a wish
for claiming it, or for their dispossession.
After the legal status of the question had been deterrained by
the courts, and Congressional action circumstantially defeired,
the writer received numerous letters from representative Cali
fornians, asking him to forego any further eflforts befe ue Congress,
until the will and wishes of the Californian public could be con
sulted in the matter. This was acceded to. And when the
Legislature of 1874 assembled, an appropriation was made of
!l?(iO,000 for the purpose of compensating the Yo Seraite settlers for
any financial loss they might sustain, by surrendering all theii'
rigbt and title to the State. For the pui-pose of carrying out the
provisions of tbis enactment, three special commissioners were
appointed by the Executive of the State, Go\'. Newton Booth,
who repaired to Yo Semite to ascertain the relative proportion of
the sum appropriated that should be paid to each.
It should here be explained that in addition to the two actual
settlers, there were two others that claimed indemnity for improve
ments; and, in (U'der to avoid any future controversies upon this
subject, it was resolved that tliese clairas should also Ije considered,
and disposed of at this juncture. In order to arrive at a just
estimate of the relative e.xpenditures of each claimant, an expert
was employed, who reported as follows: —
Improvements made by J. M. Hutchings, ^41,000; James
C. Laraon, §11,000; A. G. Black, $<s,3oO; Ira G. Folsoni, .?4,000.
Notwithstanding this showing by the expert, the following
awards were made by a niajority of the special comraission: —
J. M. Hutchings, $^24,000; Jas. C. Lamon, Sl 2,000; A. G.
Black, $22,000. Mr. Black was to pay Ira B. Folsom out of his
11

162 iN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
award ; but as Mr. Black and Mr. Folsom could not agree upon
the amount to be paid the latter, the whole matter was brought up
before the State Board of Examiners, as provided by the statutes,
when the expert was sumraoned, and the merits and demerits
of each award that had been made, relatively examined and dis
cussed, and finally adjudged as follows: J. M. Hutchings, $24,000;
Jas. C. Laraon, $12,000; A. G. Black, $13,000; Ira B. Folsom,
$6,000— total, $55,000. The balance of the $60,000 appropri
ated was returned to the State Treasury. When the sums
awarded had been accepted, and paid to the parties in interest, a
quit claim deed was given by each, of all claims to either land or
iraproveraents, to the State. Thus ended the unequal contest, of
many j'^ears, between the old Board of Yo Semite Commissioners
and the Yo Seraite settlers. Corament would be superfluous, as
facts not only tell their own story, but suggest their own infer
ences. Before closing this unvarnished recital, however, I wish to
give especial prominence to the magnanimous action of the State
in favor of the settlers; first, in declining to take the least ad
vantage of the adjudgment of the higher courts against them;
and, second, in its recognition of the equities of their claim, by
procuring for them a becomingly liberal appropriation, as com
pensation therefor; thus proving that the State requires no injus
tice or wrong to be committed in her narae or visited upon any of
her citizens however plausible raay be the excuse for attempting it.
Since the passage of the Acts introduced at the commence
ment of this chapter the following Governors have been ex officio
Presidents of the Board of Commissioners: F. F. Low, H. H.
Haight, Newton Booth, Roraualdo Pacheco, Williara G. Irwin,
George C. Perkins, and George Stoneraan.
The following gentlemen constitute the present Board of Yo
Semite Commissioners: His Excellency Geo. Stoneraan, President;
I. W. Raymond, Vice-President; Wm. B. May, Secretary and
Treasurer; Wm. H. Mills, J. H. O'Brien, Thos. P. Madden, Jona
than Mentzer, E. W. Chapman, and J. M. Griflftth.

CHAPTER XIII.
REMARKS IN OUTLINE ABOUT THE JOURNEY AND ROUTES
TO YO SEMITE.
If thou art worn and hard beset
With sorrows, that thou would'st forget;
If thou would'st read a lesson that will keep
Thy heart from fainting, and thy soul from sleep —
Go to the woods and hills. — LoXliFELLOW.
The traveled mind is the catholic mind educated from exclusiveness and
egotism. — Alcott's Tahle Talk.
Travel makes all men country men, makes people noblemen and kings, every
man tasting of liberty and dommion. — Alcott's Concord Daya.
The reader knows as well as I do that it is of little conse
quence, in point of fact, whether a spirit of romance, the love of
the grand and beautiful in scenery, the suggestions or piomptings
of a fascinating woraan — be she friend, sweetheart, or wife — the
desire for change, the want of recreation, or the necessity for a
restoration and recuperation of an overtasked physical or mental
organization, or both — whatever may be the instrumentality that
first gives birth to the wish for, or the love of. travel ; when the
mind is thoroughly made up, and the committee of ways and
means reports itself financially prepared to undertake the pleas
urable task — in order to enjoy it with luxurious zest, we raust
resolve upon four things: _/t/'S^ to leave the "peck of troubles,"
and a few thrown in, entirely behind us ; second, to have none
but good, suitable, and genial-hearted corapanions; third, a suffi
cient supply of personal patience, good humor, forbearance, and
creature comforts for all emergencies; and, fourth, when it is
possible, not to be in a hurry. To these both one and all, who
(163)

ICA IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
have ever visited the Yo Seraite Valley and the Big Trees, I know
will say — Araen.
According to the unimpeached testiraony of nearly every
traveler, there is not a country on earth, known to civilization,
that possesses raore of the beautiful and \\'ildly picturesque than
California. Her towering and pine-covered raountains; her wide-
spi-ead valleys, carpeted with flowers; her leaping water-falls; her
foaming cataracts; her rushing rivers; her placid lakes; her
ever green and densely timbered forests ; her gently rolling hills,
covered with blooming shrubs and trees, and wild floM-ers, give a
voiceless invitation to the traveler to look upon her and admire.
The difficulties that generally beset the stranger are to learn
how those that are the most noteworthy can be seen to the best
advantage. This shall be the exclusive aim and object of this
work. And at the outset I wish it to lie distinctly understood
that all route rivalry, or expressed preference, will be utterly
ignored, ray object being to present the most salient and attractive
features of each and all routes, and leave it to the intelligent
visitor to select for hiraself the one best calculated to give him
the largest return of pleasme. Then, as tastes vary in different
individuals, that which would be most enjoyable to one might
prove altogether the reverse in another. It is true there may
arise reasons, occasionally, in the interests of the traveling public,
why suggestions, .born of experience, should be freely offered, even
though they should conflict somewhat with the interests and plans
of private individuals, or corapanies ; and, however this might be
regretted, they will be fearlessly presented, and the results allowed
to take care of theraselves.
As raany lovers of the sublime and beautiful will doubtlessly
desire to visit the remarkable scenes that await their appreciative
adrairation in the High Sierra, and as I cannot in this brief out
line present all the various routes thereto from every village,
town, and city in the State — for they are almost as numerous as
the diflFerent roads that Christians seera to take to their expected
heaven, and the multitudinous creeds about the way and manner

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 165
of getting there — I shall content rayself with giving the principal
ones, and after reciting the following quaint and unansweialile
argument of a celebrated divine, to the querulous and unchari
tably ilispo.sed members of his flock, proceed at once to delineate
their principal characteristics: —
" There was a Cbristian brother — a Presbyterian — who
walked up to tbe gate of the New Jerusalem, and knocked for
admittance, when an angel who was in charge, looked down from
above and inquired what he wanted. 'To come in,' was the
answer. 'Who and what are you?' 'A Presbyterian.' 'Sit on
that seat there.' This was on the outside of the gate; and the
good man feared that he had been refused admittance. Pres
ently arrived an Episcopalian, then a Baptist, then a Methodist,
and so on, until a representative of every Christian sect had made
his appearance; and each alike ordered to take a seat outside.
Before they had long been there," continued the good man, "a
loud and familiar anthera broke forth, rolling and swelling upon
the air from the choir within; when those outside immediately
joined in the chorus. ' Oh ! ' said the angel as he opened wide the
gate, ' I did not know you by your names, but you have all
learned one song — come in ! corae in ! The narae you bear, or the
way by which you came, is of little consequence compared with
your being here at all.' As you, my brethren," the godly man
went on — " as you expect to live peaceably and lovingly together
in heaven, you had better begin to practice it on earth. I have
done." As this allegorical advice needs no words of application
either to the traveler or to the Chri,stian, in the hope that the
latter will take the adraonition of Captain Cuttle, "and make
a note on't," and an apology to the reader for this digression, I
will at once enter upon ray pleasing task.
THE SEVEN ROUTES TO THE YO SEMITE VALLEY,
All of which can now be traveled liy rail and coach to the doors of
each hotel there, spring principally from one main or trunk
route, like branches from a voung tree. This is the Central

166 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Pacific Railroad from San Francisco to Lathrop. It is true, how
ever, that two of the seven routes mentioned, being from Stockton,
can be reached by steamboat. The seven branches, each of
which i? to be hereafter briefly described — and they will be given
in the order determined by allotment, to avoid even the serablance
of favoritism — are as follows: —
First: The " Milton and Calaveras Big Tree Route." This
is from Lathrop to Stockton, by rail (or from San Francisco by
steamboat), thence to Milton, by rail;* thence via Murphys,
Calaveras Big Tree Groves, Sonora, and Chinese Carap to Val
ley, by coach.
Second: The " Berenda Route via Grant's Sulphur Springs."
Fi-om Lathi'op to Berenda (S. P. R. R.), thence to Raymond
by rail ; thence to Gambetta Gold Mines, Grant's Sulphur Springs,
Wawona, and Mariposa Big Tree Groves, to Valley, by coach.
Third: The "Madera Route via Fresno Flats." From
Madera (S. P. R. R.) via Fresno Flats, Fish Springs, Wawona,
and Mariposa Big Tree Groves, to Valley, by coach.
Fourth: The " Coulterville Route via Modesto." From
Lathrop to Modesto (S. P. R. R.), by rail; thence via La Grange,
Coulterville, Dudley's, Bower Cave, and Merced Grove of Big
Trees, to Valley, by coach.
Fifth: The " Coulterville Route, via Merced." From Lathrop
to Merced fS. P. R. R.), by rail; thence via Snellings, Merced
Falls, Coulterville, and Merced Grove of Big Trees, to Valley, by
coach. Sixth: The "Mariposa Route." Frora Lathrop to Merced
(S. P. R. R.), by rail; thence via Hornitos, Princeton, Mariposa,
Wawona, and Mariposa Big Tree Groves, to Valley, by coach.
Seventh: The "Milton and Big Oak Flat Route." From
Lathrop to Stockton (C. P. R. R.), by rail, or by steamboat;
thence to Milton (S. .t C. R. R.), by rail; thence via Copperopo-
*There is also a narrow-gauge railroad in course of construction from Brack's
Landing on the Mokelumne River, to the Calaveras Grove— already completed
to \ alley .Springs, and running from Lodi on the C. P. R. E. to that point.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 167
lis, Chinese Camp, Motiftt's Bridge, Priests, Big Oak Flat, Crockers,
and Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees, to Valley, liy coach.
Each of these will be briefly outlined, and the different points
of interest noted, in separate chapters, accompanied by a raap
that will indicate the diverging and connecting lines of each
particular route — which, please consult — so as to enable visitoi's
to travel understandingly, and, it is hoped, enjoyably, by what
soever route they may elect to take. But, to make a journey
thoroughly pleasurable, and its close a delightful meraory, a limited
araount of business caution should precede the start, and more or
less accompany the traveler to the end.
Of course I Avill, if you please, a.ssurae that the object of the
trip is at least twofold, — intellectual and physical gratification,
and the gathering of irapressions and facts that may be of use
hereafter. With a desire to suliserve such laudable purposes,
permit me to make a few preliminary suggestions, tending some
what to insure these results: —
First: Go in by one route, and out b}' another — remember
ing that all routes are picturesque and interesting while being
equally safe. Should any one advise you to the contrary, you
may be sure that he has some unworthy business " ax to grind; "
therefore, heed him not.
Second: Having thoroughly made up your mind about the
route that j-ou prefer, see that your ticket, upon its face, exactly
represents your wishes. Oral explanations are not always con
veniently at hand, when they ai-e perhaps most needed; and
memory .sometimes may be at fault, but written or printed testi
mony is always to the point, if presental ile.
Third: Never be induced to leave a trunk, or a hat-box, or
valise, or fish-rod, or rifle, or anything else, in anyway calculated
to compel you to return by that or any other route, contrary to
your well-considered plans and intentions.
If, after what 30U read below, you have been induced to
take something you do not need, either carry it along with you, or
leave it at, or conveniently near, some junction of the two roads.

168 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
PERSONAL BAGGAGE TO BE TAKEN.
This, you will allow, is a difficult matter for me to determine,
and one that will require your generous forbearance and assist
ance. These questions settled, I will suppose that your good sense
(no flattery is intended) will suggest at the start that all Saratoga
trunks should be eschewed, even if their dimensions do not exceed
those of an ordinary cottage or two. If you have one of moder
ate pretensions, be sure and carefully examine its contents with
the view of laying aside everything that you know will not be
wanted. Next, turn over your effects again, and reject every
thing you feel that you could conscientiously do without.
Now, if health and comfort are studied, gentlemen will see
that they have one extra of each of the following articles: One
pair of good serviceable boots (not necessarily very heavy) that
have been broken to the feet ; one complete outfit of underclothing ;
one woolen overshirt; three or four pairs of hose (woolen should
be preferred) ; one suit of strong clothes (old ones, if not too easily
torn, would be the best, as they will be good for nothing after
your return); pocket-handkerchiefs, and a few other necessary
articles; remembering that there are laundries in the Valley.
Ladies would do well by taking some of the hints thrown out to
gentleraen — in providing theraselves with woolen dresses of suita
ble length, color, and texture, made in the Bloomer or other similar
style, as such would be found to possess both corafort and adapta
bility; durable linen riding habit; boots that were made for wear
raore than for ornament ; a warra shawl ; and by raaking choice
of such other articles as will best raeet their wants, wishes, and
tastes, without further enumeration frora me. These should all
be packed in as small a valise as possible; or, if an extended trip
into the mountains is intended, in a pair of saddle-bags.
At best it will be difficult to give advice that will accord
with every variety of condition and of circumstance. By way
of illustration, we raay mention that an estimable and intelligent
lady correspondent of a San Francisco paper visited Yo Semite
early in May; and, finding the weather cool, advised every

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 169
lady to go there warraly clad. Other ladies, later in the season,
taking that advice, and finding the cliraate pleasantly warm,
remarked, "How could Mrs. H  recommend us to come in
such warm clothing? when we return we will tell all our lady
friends to choose none but light summer dresses 1"
Always look out for your baggage, and see that every piece
is surely placed upon the conveyance you are about to take before
leaving the hotel door. Careful attention to the above sugges
tions will, believe rae, preserve you frora many detracting an
noyances in the future of your journe^^
A WORD TO PARTIES CAMPING.
Supposing that you have wisely chosen your corapanions,
of both sexes, frora those you hnow possess kindred tastes and
dispositions, each of whora expects to assume, cheerfully, his or
her full share of all the duties appertaining to camp-life — whether
in song, a good story, recitation, or in the somewhat exacting
attentions of the cuisene — you will then lie in a position to
consider how the enjoyments of the trip can be best subserved.
Hore permit me to make a few suggestions which originated
in the laboratory of experience : —
ABOUT YOUR OUTFIT.
Let it consist, raainly, as follows: A light yet strong coach,
sufficiently capacious to accoraraodate your party comfortably, es
pecially if the weather is, like Bob Sawyer's apple (see Pickwick
Papers), unpleasantly warm ; horses that are known to be, not only
true to the harness, but of about the same size and weight, and
equal to every reasonable emergency of both load and road ; bearing
in mind that there are not less than frora five to six thousand feet
of altitude to be overcome, between the plains and Yo Semite, or
Big Trees, the grade being heavy in some places. Do not overload
with stores, for two reasons : First, it saps away the strength and
spirit of 3'our horses (to say nothing of your own), and conse-
(juently retards both speed and progress. Second, because every
kind of article, almost, from a needle to a saw-horse, can be

170

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

obtained upon arrival, and generally at fairly reasonable pi'ices,
considering their distance from the market. Still, enough should
be taken for the necessities' of the road. Provide a flattish sheet-
iron, bottomless, cook-stove, of reasonably heavy iron, having two
or four holes on top, and one length of stove-pipe, snugly fitted to
the stove ; a nest of camp-kettles (four or flve) that fit into each
other ; baking, bread, and dish pans (one of the matrons of the
party should select all such articles); frying-pan, bake-oven,
coffee and teapots, granite- ware plates and cups; tea and table-
.spoons, and one large batter spoon; knives and forks, including a
couple of good butcher knives ; salt, pepper, sugar, tea and coffee
bags, with extra ones for times of need. Then to these do not
forget to add a whetstone, towels, soap, brooms, needles and
thread, scissors, buttons, matches and candles, writing-paper, pens,
ink, envelopes, postage stamps, etc. Then to these add three
pairs of blankets for each couple, and as many for each one who
prefers to sleep alone.TENTS AND THEIR ARRANGEMENTS.
Suitable tents should always be provided for the ladies, and
one long tent for general use, open at the front for its entire
length, and consisting of one sheet of strong drilling, say three
yards in width by five in length, with ends, resembling those of
an old-fashioned Dutch-oven, as illustrated below. This, with the
lower back edge fastened to the ground (suitable holes having been

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 171
worked into the sheet for picket-pins) is supported in front by a
light pole-post, set under it at each front corner; over which a
small cord (running the whole length of, and well sewed to, the
.sheet) is drawn tight, and fastened to a pin driven in the ground,
in advance of the front line of the tent, by which the whole is
made secure. A similar sheet, to form a kind of carpet, should be
spread upon the ground, or over the improvised bedding of leaves,
hay, pine needles, etc., to keep the blankets clean. These sheets,
when carefully shaken, and folded once, make an excellent wrap
for the blankets, sheets, pillows, and other articles requiring to be
kept clean, especially if well tied up, to keep out the dust.
Contrivances like these add largely to the corafort of a party,
by providing a place of shelter for themselves, and outfit, in all
weathers, as well as a compartment for general rendezvous, and
for social pleasures at all times. (Eleven of us — six ladies and
five gentlemen — enjoyably occupied one of these in our mountain
wanderings, for over three months.) In the Sierra Nevadas
the summer winds generally blow from the east at night, and the
open tent should be so pitched as to have the back of it towards
that quarter ; then the wind not only sweeps over it, 1 lut carries
away all the camp-fire smoke, instead of driving it into the tent.
For rainy weather in California it should be pitched towards the
south, and the front open to the north. If the purposes of sight
seeing, or an outlook towards the horses, or wagon, can be sub
served by changing its direction a little, that can be done without
interfering with any of its protective provisions. Be sure and
select a dry place, as convenient as possible to wood and water,
for your camp-ground. Now, although fine weather is the rule
among the raountains of (California, during suramer, it should be
borne in mind that nearly every rule has its exceptions, and this
is one ; therefore, it behooves every camping-party to be prepared
for storms, should they corae. Timely provision should accord
ingly be made for these, in ordei' to avoid discomfort, and, possibly,
severe colds. The old saying that " one ounce of prevention is
better than pounds of antidotes," will, believe me, be found serv
iceable here, as elsewhere.

CHAPTER XIV
THE MAIN OR TRUNK ROUTE TOWARDS YO SEMITE, SAN
FRANCISCO TO LATHROP.
Speed the soft intercourse from soul to soul.
And waft a sigh from Indus to the pole.
— Pope's Eloise to Abelard.
Traveling is no fool's errand to him who carries his eyes and itinerary with
him. — ALCOT-r's Table Talk,
Know most of the rooms of thy native country before thou goest over the
threshold thereof. — FULLEK.
There are probably but few, if any, more exciting scenes in
any part of the world than are to be witnessed on almost any
day, Sunday excepted, at the Market Street Wharf, San Fran
cisco, upon the departure of the various trains for the interior, or
overland. Men and women are hurrying to and fro; draj's,
carriages, express wagons, and horsemen dash past you with as
much haste and vehemence as though they were carrying a
reprieve to sorae poor conderaned crirainal, the last raoraents of
whose life were fast ebbing away, and by the speedy delivery of
that reprieve, they expected to save hira from the scaffold. Indeed,
one would suppose, by the apparently reckless manner in riding
and driving through the crowd, that numerous limbs, if not necks,
would be broken, and vehicles made into raince-raeat! Yet, to
your surprise, nothing of the kind occurs ; for, upon arriving at
the sraallest obstruction , animals are reined in with a proraptness
that astonishes.
Interesting as this may be to you as a spectator, it should
not be allowed to divert your attention suflficiently to prevent the
timely checking of your trunk, or valise, to the very railway
172

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

173

terrainus }'ou are to leave by stage, oi- to cause your being the
proverbial "last man," as he sonietimes arrives too late. Presum
ing that all such matters have received becoming consideration;
that your ticket, upon its face, provides for all emergencies of
travel upon the route you have chosen; and, moreover, that \o\\
are safely aboard the ferry-boat that is speeding you towards
the wonderful Valley and the Big Tree Groves; as you may be
a stranger here, and soraewhat unfarailiar with the scenes that
will open liefore you, I will, in imagination at least, with yovir
kind permission, be j'our traveling companion on this excursion,
and explain such matters as most naturally will claim our
attention. As it is generally cool in summer, when crossing the Bay of
San Francisco, plea,se put on your overcoat, and let us take a cozy
seat together on the north side the boat; and while the black
smoke is rolling in volumes from the. funnels of numerous steam
ers, and we are shooting out from the wharf, past this or that
vessel now lying at anchor, or furling its sails from a voyage or
spreading them for one; while numerous nervous people are
troubling about their baggage, and asking the porter all sorts of
questions, let us have a quiet chat upon the sights to be seen
around us. The first object of interest, after leaving the wharf
and the city behind us, is

ALCATKACES, OK PELICAN ISLAND,

174 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
This is just opposite the Golden Gate, and about half way
between the city and Angel Island. It coraraands the great land
locked Bay of San Francisco, and is but three and a half miles
from Fort Point, on the southern side of the Golden Gate. This
island (now generally called "Alcatraz") is one hundred and forty
feet in height above low water mark, four hundred and fifty feet
in width, and sixteen hundred and fifty feet in length; soraewhat
irregular in outline, and fortified on all sides. The large building
on its sumniit is a defensive barrack, or citadel, three stories high,
which intime of peace will, wdth other quarters, accommodate about
two hundred raen; and in war about three times that number.
It is not only a shelter for the soldiers, capable of withstanding a
respectable cannonade, but from its top a raurderous fire could be
opened upon its assailants at all parts of the island. There is,
raoreover, a belt of fortifications encircling the island, raounting
guns of the heaviest caliber, and of the latest improved patterns.
Besides these there are stone guard-houses, shot and shell
proof, protected by heavy gates and draw -bridges, and having
erabrasuies for rifled cannon that command the approache'S in
every direction. Their tojjs, like the barrack, are flat, for the
use of riflemen. In addition to these there are sevei'al bomb
proof magazines, and a large furnace for heating cannon balls.
Unfortunately, no natural supply of water has yet been dis
covered on the island, so that all of this element has to be carried
there in tanks, and stored in a large cistern at the basement of
the barracks. For washing purposes a sufficient quantity is
obtained from the roofs of the principal buildings. At the south
eastern end of the island is a fog-bell, of about the same size and
weight as that at Fort Point, which is regulated to strike by
machinery every quarter of a minute. There is also a light-house
at the south of the bairacks, with newly improved lenses, thc
glare from which can be distinctly seen, on a clear night, some
twelve railes outside the Heads, . and is of essential service in
directing the course of vessels when entering the Bay. Northerly
frora Alcatraces, about two and a half miles distant, and five
from San Francisco, is

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 175
ANGEL ISLAND.
This contains some eight hundred acres of excellent land, and
is by far the largest and mo.st valuable of any in the Bay of San
Francisoo. The wild oats and grasses that grow to its very sum
rait, in early spring, give pasturage to stock of all kinds needed
here; while several natural springs, at diflferent points, supply
good water in abundance, and at all seasons. A large portion of
the island is susceptible of cultivation for all kinds of vegetables
and cereals. Beautiful wild flowers grow in sequestered places
from one end of it to the other. Live oaks (quercus agrifolia)
supply both shade and firewood. Belonging, as it does, to the
Governraent, it is a favorite place of residence for army officers
stationed theie, for whose accommodation .a small steamer plies,
regularly, between this island (calling at Alcatraces, Fort Point,
and Point San Jose) and San Francisco.
From its almost inexhaustible quarries of hard blue and
brown sandstone, nearly all the material for foundations of build
ings in San Francisco were taken, in earlv times. The extensive
fortifications at Alcatraces Island, Fort Point, and other places,
have been faced with it, and the extensive Government works at
Mare Island have been principally built with stone from these
quarries. Clay, also, in abundance, and of excellent quality for
bricks, is found bere.
As Angel Island lies midway between Alcatraces Island and
the main-land the guns from its fortifications completely sweep
the bay, southerly, and Raccoon Straits, northwesterly, afibrd
ing thorough protection on all sides. But for these not only would
our Navy Yard at Mare Island be in jeopardy, but the city of San
Francisco itself would be exposed; inasmuch as an enemy's war
vessel could easily enter the harbor by Raccoon Straits, during a
heavy fog, that frequently in summer hangs over the Golden
Gate, if perraitted to pass Fort Point in safety.
MT. TAMALPAIS
Is the highest point in the more immediate surroundings of the
Bay of San Francisco, and is a prorainent landraark far out at

176 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
sea. It stands northwesterly from the city of San Francisco, and
its top is about fi teen miles distant, "as the crow flies." Its
height above sea level is 2,610 feet. A good road to its summit
frora San Rafael now enables every one to view the coraprehensive
and beautiful landscape thence, not only with corafort but with
positive enjoyraent. We generally climbed it afoot, for exercise.
The light-colored mark on its southern side was caused by a
" cloud-burst," which literally tore out the earth and rocks to the
depth of several feet, and for ovi-r forty feet in width by a hun
dred and fifty in length. This torrent-cut material, sweeping
with impetuous force down a ravine, set bowlders free, tore out
trees by their roots, snapped others in two, and made sad havoc
frora top to bottora. This event occurred in I86I. If I were to
eletain you here with descriptions of its madroiie, laurel, oak, and
other trees ; its fragrant shrubs, and numerous wild flowers, there
is no tellina: when or where this therae would end. But while we
have been chatting, and watching the receding city, with its
seven hills — like Rome — all covered with buildings; or looking
at the English, French, or German, and other ships-of-war that
are now resting so peacefully at anchor, like sleeping giants; or
admiring the daring of those little steam-tugs that shoot hither
and thither, and take hold of vessels many dozen tiines their size,
and push them wherever they may list ; or interestedly note the
craft of all sizes flitting across the seething wake of our boat,
and glinting in the f ar-oflf sunlight; or listening tothe beating
paddles of numerous ferry-boats, .starting in all conceivable direc
tions ; or observing that steamer with the stately sweep and build,
whose prow so proudly cuts the brine, that is just now sailing
for Panama, or Hong Kong via Japan, or Australia, or for one
of the many Pacific ( Joast ports; while we have been observing
these, and perhaps many other objects of interest, we have come
abreast of a little green spot now known as
GOAT ISLAND.
Wlien occupied by Mexicans it was called " Yerba Buena
Island," from the generous supply of the "good herb" (Micro-

Photo. hvS. C. 11'.'/':

Photo-typo by Jiriltou &¦ R,_\ . S. F.

The Yo Semite F;ill—Cho-lock— During High Water.

With " Reflecth'ns."

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 177
m,eria Douglasii) found on its northern and sheltered side. It is
now in the possession of the United States Government, and used
mainly as a Fog-Horn Signal Station — a very necessary precau
tion in foggy weather, especially to the well-patronized ferries
that ply between San Francisco and Oakland, or Alameda — and
for the manufacture and storage of buoys, many of which can be
seen lying on the landing there. Strenuous eflforts were made
several years ago for the possession of this island by the Central
Pacific Railroad Company, as the western terminus of their great
overland road, and for the accommodation of vessels loading with
wheat, wool, argentiferous ores, or other California products ; but
the property owners of San Francisco saw the mental mirage of
a rival city looming up, and successfully opposed its cession.
Now the ship-loading business, intended for Goat Island, is carried
on at Long Wharf, northwesterly from the Oakland pier, where
vessels from all nations can be seen taking in cargo, for their
respective destinations. But the ring of the bell responded
to irapatiently, apparently, by the passengers gives intimation
that we have crossed the Bay of San Francisco, and are at
THE OAKLAND PIER.
The distance across, from the Market Street Wharf to the
Oakland Pier, is three miles and sixty -three one hundredths, and
has taken us ju.st twenty minutes to accomplish it. Let us pause
for a moment, if you please, and gaze at the hurrying stream of
huraan life, flowing out from these commodious ferry-boats. If
you and I could follow each and every one to his abiding place,
enter into the secret heart-life of each and know their various
plans and hopes, their sorrows, fears, and cares, I think our
hearts would soften a little to the many. But, as we have to mix
with the throng, or be left behind, we naturally cut short our
reveries and walk ashore. Now a clear stentorian voice announces :
' Passengers for Benicia, Sacramento, Stockton, Lathrop, and
all intermediate points, please to step this way," and we flow with
the outward-bound tide of humanity into the capacious depot,
12 I

178 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
where there seems to be a bewildering number of trains, for all
sorts of places; but as the destination of each is announced in
large letters," so that he who runneth can read," there is no dan
ger of our selecting the wrong one.
As our course when leaving the ferry-boat has been to the
left, we raay have unintentionally passed
THE ELEGANT WAITING-ROOM,
Perhaps, without noticing it. This would be a regretable omis
sion, as it is one of the most commodious,, as well as raost com
fortable waiting-rooms, to be found in any country or clime ; for as
soon as it is entered by returning pa.ssengers, its spaciousness, and
cheery brightness bespeak a cordial welcome that always im
presses pleasantly. Photographs, paintings, and " live " advertise
ments make it fairly to glisten with sprightliness. But to our
journey. THE srART FROM THE OAKLAND PIER.
With the waters of the Bay on each side of us, we .speed
along rapidly over a solid road-bed of rock, raade through the
shallow stretches of the Bay, instead of on piles and beams, as
forraerly, adding materially to the safety of the transit over it;
the outlook broadening, and the interest deepening, as we advance.
There is something very exhilarating about the excitements
of a journey through an unfarailiar country, and as soon as we
have taken our seat in the railway car, and object after object,
or scene after scene, opens up before us, we long for some one at
our elbow, or by our side, to answer questions. This gratification
is not always attainable. But, partly in anticipation of your
wishes, it may be well to explain thera briefly as we roll com
fortably along. And, by way of coramencement, when the cars
stop at any particular station, as the conductor may be busy
with his duties, and as you may like to know just how far we
have traveled, the following table will explain the distances
between San Francisco and Lathrop. —

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY

179

WAY STATIONS.

By Railway
From San Francisco to —
Oakland Pier  
West Oakland 
Sixteenth Street, Oakland.
Stock Yards ,_ 
West Berkeley 
Highland  —
Point Isabel  
Stego 
Barrett  
San Pablo   
Sobrante  
Pinole  
Tormey  
VALLEJO JUNCTION..
Valona   
POET COSTA 
Martinez 
Avon  —  -.
Bay Point 
McAvoy  - 
Cornwall 
Antioch 
Brentwood  - 
Byron  
Bethany  - 
TEACY 
Banta  - - • ¦
LATHROP  ---

DISTANCES IN MILES.

Between
GonBecntive Poiuts,

3.692.20 0.602.20 1.671.26 1.091.152.2(1 1.47
3.233.20 2.74 2.250.61 2.553.47 3.513.09 3.26 4,39
4.65 8.16
5.138-81 6.613.09 8.00

From
San Fran
cisco.

Total from San Francisco to Lathrop  | 94.34

3.69 5.89 6.498.75
10.42 11.68 12.77 13.92 l(i.l217.5920.82 24.0226.76 29.01 29.6232.17 35.6439.1542.24 45.50
49.89 .54.04 62.7(167.8376.64 S3. 25
86.34 94.34

From
Lathiop,

94.3490.65 88.45 87.8585.59 83.92 82.66 81.57 80.1278 20
76 75
73.52 70 32
07.58 65.3364.72 62.1758.70 55.19 52.10
48.84 44.45.39.80 31.64 26 51
17.7011.09 8.00

180 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
On, on we ride, past the western suburbs of Oakland, the
Stock Yards, and West Berkeley, various manufacturing estab
lishraents, catching a hasty glirapse of the California University
buildings, the Deaf, Durab, and Blind Asylum, and other State
institutions, standing among the gently rolling foot-hills of the
Contra Costa Range, the distance for many miles out being dotted
with comfortable residences or prosperous farms. Back of and
east of these rise the green yet almost treeless ridges of the Contra
Costa Hills, covered to their sumraits in spring and early sumraer
with a luxuriant growth of wild oats, which, in the fall, change
to a rich golden brown, from very dryness.
WILD OATS, HOW PRESERVED FROM EXTERMINATION.
In early days, owing to carelessness, or to wantonness,
miles of this parched surface would be ignited, and fire sweep
over it in rolling waves, throwing its lurid light both far and
near, and burning everything that was combustible — the wild
oats included. Fortunately, however, nature had provided each
grain with two slender extremities, as though anticipating the
coming danger ; and as the oats dropped down upon the ground,
and became swollen by the dews of night, those extremities were
contracted inwards towards the body of the grain, when their
feet inserted themselves into the ground ; the next day's warmth
dried out the moisture, and in so doing straightened out the legs,
so that by this process the grain itself was forced forward, until
it dropped into one of the many sun-cracks near, and was entirely
out of danger from the destroying element. The first heavy rains
following, swell the earth suflficiently to cover the wild oats en
tirely up ; when they stool out from among their hiding-places in
the cracks; and when the tender shoots raake their appearance,
the whole surface presents a resemblance to sorae grotesquely
woven, tessellated carpet.
Moving rapidly forward, and shooting past some stations
without stopping, our course, for nearly thirty miles, lies along
the southeastern margin of the charming bays of San Francisco
and San Pablo ; the light glinting upon their waters, and beyond

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 181
which are the purple hills looming up in picturesque irregularity,
indicating numerous spurs, or starting points of apparently
different ranges, until we pass the Starr Co.'s flouring mills
(where some two thousand five hundred barrels of flour are said
to be manufactured daily) and arrive at Vallejo Junction. Now
we lose those of our fellow-passengers who are bound for Vallejo,
the Governraent works of Mare Island, Napa, and other pros
perous settleraents in these midland valleys.
Three miles farther on — the intermediate distance occupied
mainly by grain warehouses and workshops — we reach the fa
raous ferry landing of Port Costa, where all Eastern-bound passen
gers leave us for their multifarious destinations. Here we find
THE MONSTER C. P. R. R. TRANSFER BOAT "SOLANO."
This plies between Port Costa and Benicia, across the Straits
of Carquinez, the distance between the slips being within a few
feet of one raile. As this is the largest boat of her class afloat, the
following description, kindly furnished by its owners, will be
found interesting: —
The dimensions of the double-ender transfer boat Solano are: Length
over all, 424 feet; length on bottom, 406 feet; height of sides, at center, 18
feet 5 inches; at ends, from bottom of boat, 15 feet 10 inches; moulded
beam, 64 feet; extreme width over guards, 116 feet; camber, or reverse
shear of deck, 2 feet 6 inches. Draught, light, 5 feet; loaded, 6 feet 6
inches. Registered tonnage, 3,541 31-100 tons.
She haa two vertical beam engines: Cylinders, 60-inch bore, H feet
stroke; wheels, 30 feet diameter, with 24 buckets each, 17 feet face.
Engines are driven by 8 steel boilers, each 28 feet long, 7 feet diame
ter of shells, containing 143 tubes, 4 inches diameter by 16 feet long.
Total heating surface in 8 boilers, 19,640 square feet; grate surface, 288
square feet, capable of driving engines with 2,000 horse-power each. The
boilers are placed in pairs, ou the guards, forward and abaft the paddle-
boxes, connected with engines, so that one or all may be used at
pleasure. The engines are placed on the center line of the boat, fore and aft of
the center of boat, 8 feet, making distance from center to center of shafts
16 feet, and not placed abreast of each other, as in the usual manner.
The object of this arrangement is to give room on deck for four tracks—

182 IN THE HEART OF TUE SIERRAS.
and each wheel being driven by an independent engine, enables the boat
tobe more easily handled in entering slips.
Among other novelties in her construction are four Pratt trusses,
arranged fore aud aft, directly under tracks, varied in size to meet the
strains upon them. These give longitudinal stiffness, and connect the
deck and bottom of the boat, making her in reality a huge floating bridge.
In addition there are eleven water-tight transverse bulkheads, dividing
the hull into twelve compartments, rendering her absolutely secure from all
danger of sinking, besides adding additional stiffness to the boat.
There are four balanced rudders at each end of boat, Xi.% feet long
by 5% feet deep, coupled together and worked by hydraulic steering gear,
operated by independent steam-engines and pumps. The steering gear is
connected also with steering wheels in the ordinary manner — the pilot
houses being 40 feet above deck, affording the helmsman a clear view, fore
and aft.
There are four bridges running athwartship, and another fore and
aft, connecting the pilot houses. Upon the deck are four tracks extend
ing the entire length, with capacity for 48 freight cars, with locomotive,
or 24 passenger coaches of the largest class.
The aprons connecting the boat with the slips at Benicia and Port
Costa are each 100 feet long, with four tracks, so arranged that freight
and passenger trains are run aboard without being uncoupled fromthe
locomotive. The aprons weigh, each, 150 tons, and are worked by a com
bination of pontoons and counter-weights, by hydraulic power.
In the hold of the boat are commodious quarters for the officers and
crew; on deck, rooms for the transaction of railroad business.
THE STRAITS OF CARQUINEZ.
These form the only outlet for the entire water-shed of the
Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the great basins of the Sacramento
and San Joaquin Rivers, with their tributaries, comprising an area
of nearly thirty thousand square miles. This, therefore, from
necessity, forras the only inland, Golden Gate-like entrance, for
all vessels needed for the commercial wants of the interior, out
side and apart frora the out-reaching railroad systera of the State.
MARTINEZ.
Instead of crossing the Straits of Carquinez, however, we
continue along its. southern shore for some distance yet; and in
about three railes arrive at Martinez, the countv seat of Contra

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

183

Costa County. This, believe me, is one of the prettiest agricult
ural villages in any country. A week among its vineyards,
gardens, groves, and farms, will convince the most skeptical of

COUNTBT NEAR MARTINEZ.

this. Here, too, the beautiful live oak (Quercus agrifolia) and
the gracefully drooping white oak (Q. lohata) add their inviting
attractions to the landscape. This, moreover, is the avenue by
which Pacheco and other valleys are reached, and where the
native Californians in early days enjoyed so many pastimes;
which, like raany of its people, have passed away forever. On
this account I am terapted to briefly chronicle sorae of the raost
POPULAR AMUSEMENTS OF NATIVE CALIFORNIANS.
Like their Mexican prototypes, they are very fond of amuse
ments. They can endure any amount of enjoyment in every form,
and at all tiines, and take as kindly to pleasure as though they
were born to it. There is also another sympathetic characteris
tic between the two peoples — neither of them will do anything
to-day in the form of work that they can, by any possibility,
postpone until to-raorrow. Mariana esta siempre buana (to
morrow is always good), where labor is concerned, because it
never comes. On these accounts, mainly, every " saint's day,"
among these old settlers, was welcomed, because it brought a
holiday.

i% 1 :: I

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 185
It used to be an interesting sigfht to watch these dusky-
colored people issue from their hurable, tile-i-eofed, adobe dwell
ings, in any of their drearay towns, at sunrise, on any favorite
saint's day, when the matin bell called to prayers. Then the
seiioritas and senoras, dressed in the brightest of coloi's ; and the
seiiores begirt theraselves in the gayest of sashes ; and all walked,
saunteringly, side by side, to the shadow-filled house of devotion
where, with low musical chantings, .solemn ceremonials (and equally
soleran countenances) they knelt together in seeraing worship.
But no sooner was the church threshold recrossed than they
felt " A change came o'er the spirit of my dreara" that alraost
amounted to an entire transforraation ; the muttered response was
eversed to a merry laugh, and the kneeling posture to a lively,
light-footed skip. Now the arrangements for the day's enjoy
ments were freely discussed, and every preparation raade for
insuring a general holiday. Way.side stalls, laden with fruits,
cakes, sweetmeats, toys, and general refreshments, would spring
up here and there; and be well patronized by juveniles, and
friends that had come in from the neighboring ranches.
HORSE-RACING.
Every native Californian is as much at borne on a horse,
with or -wdthout a saddle, as a Sandwich Islander is upon a surf
board when he plays upon the waves; and, as horses are their
particular pride (even while they excessively abuse them when in
passion), skill in riding is the most esteemed of all accomplish
ments. Associated with this, and of which it forras a part, is the
love of display ; so that next to a beautiful animal the most costly
of caparisons are preferred. A native Californian will, therefore,
invest his last real (and go hungry) rather than forego the in
dulgence of expensive ornaments for his saddle, bridle, and spurs.
And as horse-racing strikingly provides him with the opportunity
for exhibiting these to the best advantage before the fair sex, and
his envious companions, he indulges it to infatuation. Scarcely
secondary to this, and for the selfsame reasons, follows the popu
lar pastime of " snatching the rooster."

186 IN THE HEA RT OF THE SIERRAS.

X.i'riVE CALIFORNIAS, WHEN AT FULL SPEED, SNATCHING THE ROOSTER.
As illustrated in the above engraving the body of the rooster
is buried, so that nothing but the head is visible above ground.
All of those who are mounted, and whose horses are prancing and
dancing, about sixty yards distant, are to take part in the sport,
and are impatiently awaiting their turn. The moment the signal
is given for the start, the impetuous and expectant rider sets
spurs to his horse, and dashes out at the top of his .speed; and,
when nearly opposite the would-be prize, he makes a dexterous
swoop down to it ; and, if he succeeds in clutching and unearth
ing the bird, he bears off the trophy in triuraph, araid the applause
of the concourse asserabled. But, should he fail in the effort, as
most frequently happens, he not only loses the favors he had
looked forward to winning, but sometimes is unhorsed with
violence, and dragged in the dust, at the risk of serious accident;
and that, too, amid the derisive jeers and laughter of the spectators.
Valuable horses, with their costly trappings, and sometimes large
sums of nioney, and even ranches, are not infrequently staked
upon the issue of " snatching the rooster."
Another source of amusement among native Californians, and
this also was intended to illustrate their dexterity in horsemanship,

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 187
is to place a rawhide flat upon the ground ; and, when the horse is
galloping swiftly, to suddenly check hira in the moment his fore
feet strike the hide. If, by any possibility, the horse is allowed to
cross this before stopping, the rider is berated most unmercifully
for his lack of skill, especially if he should be unseated in the
effort. But the greatest of all sources of gratification, to all classes
and to both sexes, were the
BULL, AND BULL AND BEAR FIGHTS.
After the discovery of gold, and before their grounds were
acquired and much settled up by Americans, these people took
increased delight in the cruel and dangerous recreation of bull-
baiting, and bull and bear fighting, until 1852, when it was
frowned down by the public, and prevented by the authorities.
On one occasion thousands of persons had collected, in one of our
populous valleys, to witness one of these disgraceful exhibitions,
when twelve bulls, two large grizzly bears, and a considerable
number of Indians were engaged at different tiraes. In the second
day's encounter four Indians and one horse were killed; and
while the sharp horns of the infuriated bull were goring their
voluntary victiras, the band would strike up a lively tune to
sraother their cries and moans. Fortunately these, with cock-
fighting and other debasing amuseraents, have, let us hope, for
ever ended, as they have been superseded by those which are
progressive and refining.
The native Californians, with their half-dreamy and semi-
religious teachings, seemed to have been a compromise between
barbarism on the one hand and the sesthetical refineraent of
progress on the other; and, owing to their easy, " go-as-you-please "
teraperaraents, and manners, have been despoiled, and sharply
elbowed off' the track in the great race of life, with a few tena
cious and plucky exceptions; and, with their customs, for the most
part, been retired into the irretrievable past.
Leaving the county seat of Contra Costa behind us, with the
rolling hills that surround it, we emerge into an open country

188 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
studded with farms that skirt the base of an imposing mountaia
on our right, known to the world as
MONTE DEL DIABLO.
Whether we are walking on the streets of San Francisco, or
sailing on our bays and navigable rivers, or riding on the roads
in the Sacraraento or San Joaquin Valleys, or standing on the
elevated ridges of the Sierras ; in lonely boldness, at alraost every
turn, Monte Diablo stands prominently out as the great land
mark of Central California.
Viewed from the northwest or southeast, it appears to have
a double crown, with two elevated crests that are about three
miles apart. The southwestern is the higher, with an elevation
of three thousand eight hundred and fifty feet above sea level.
Frora this lofty standpoint the country is spread out before you
like an iraraense map, covering an estimated area of forty thou
sand square railes of land, and forming one of the most reraark
able panoraraas ever viewed by human eyes. To describe this in
detail would of itself fill a volurae. It is presuraed that its
narae-givers, the early padres, having climbed it, and looked
around upon its unspeakable wonders with awe, recalled to
memory that passage of holy writ from Matt. 4:8, 9: "The
devil taketh him [Jesus] up into an exceeding high mountain,
and sheweth hira all the kingdoras of the world, and the glory of
thera ; and saith unto him. All these things will I give thee, if
thou wilt fall down and worship me," and that this suggested
the name. Without even attempting an outline of the glorious
view presented, let me counsel you to pay the sumrait of Monte
del Diablo a visit, if you wish to revel in a scenic banquet, the
raeraory of which will reraain with you pleasantly forever. To
accomplish this you leave the train at Martinez, and proceed to
Clayton ; whence you can ride to the very summit, by a fairly
good road, and back again to Clayton, in a single day.
For the purpose of surveying the State into a network of
township lines, three "meridians," or initial points, were estab-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 189
Iished bythe United States Survey, naraely: Monte Diablo (Contra
Costa County), Mount San Bernardino (San Bernardino County),
and Mount Pierce (Humboldt County). Across the highest peaks
of each of these a " meridian line" and a "base line" were run;
the latter being from east to west, and the former from north to
south. Of these three the Monte Diablo is by far the most com
prehensive, as it includes all the lands lying between the Coast
Range and the Sierras, and from the Siskiyou Mountains to the
head of the Tulare Valley.
The geologic features of Monte Diablo are mainly primitive,
although surrounded by sedimentary rock, abounding in raarine
shells. Near its sumrait gold-bearing quartz has been found in
veins ; on its western slope hornblende ; and, in its nuraerous spurs,
an inexhaustible supply of limestone. It is said that both copper
and cinnabar ore has been found here, but with what truthfulness
has not been determined. At the eastern base of Monte Diablo sev
eral veins of coal have been found, but this being strongly impreg
nated with sulphur, has been used, principally, for stearaboats.
The canons of this raountain are lined with stunted oak, and
pines; and wild oats and chaparral, alternately, grow from base
to summit. In the fall season, when the herbage and dead bushes
are perfectly dry, the Indians have sometimes set portions of the
surface on fire, and when the breeze is fresh, and the night dark,
the lurid flames leap, and curl, and sweep, now to this side and
now to that, and present a spectacle magnificent beyond the power
of language to express.
But as time forbids a longer tarrying here, for the present at
least, let us ride onward past farms, with cattle and horses on
either side the track; shoot under tramways frora the Monte
Diablo coal raines at Cornwall and Antioch; and, before long,
arrive at Tracy, where the Western Division of the Central Pa
cific Railroad forms a junction with the main line. But a short
time will elapse before crossing the San Joaquin River (which
obtains its waters from the living glaciers of Mount Ritter, the
Minarets, and other lofty peaks of the main chain of the Sierra

190 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Nevada Mountains) and, continuing about three miles beyond,
we ai:rive at LATHROP.
Here the trunk, or main line, forms a junction with its diverg
ing branches, both north and south. This station — naraed in
honor of Mrs. Leland Stanford (wife of Governor, now United
States Senator Stanford, one of the founders and builders of the
Central Pacific Railroad, and continuously its president) whose
raaiden name was Lathrop — from its establishraent, has always
been a general stopping-place for refreshraents; and, when ap
proaching it, you will still hear sorae resonant voice announce,
" Lathrop — twenty rainutes for raeals." In recent years an oppo
sition gong has rung out its unrausical clang, to tell to the hun
gry that there are other places at Lathrop, besides the station,
wherfe the hungry can be fed. Here, also, are workshops, engine
houses, surplus cars, and all the usual paraphernalia of a central
depot; so that " extras" of every kind needed in railroad trans
portation can be furnished without the least unnecessary delay.
Railway officers, with their assistants, naturally raake this quite
a lively station; and, when the trains arrive with their passen
gers, all is bustle and exciteraent. Within the past few years this
has grown .somewhat into an agricultural settleraent, which, with
the conveniences needed by railway eraployes, has changed its
formerly sleepy and forsaken look to one of wide-awake busi
ness prosperity, that augurs well for its future development and
advancement. If we are bound for Yo Semite via Modesto, Merced, Berenda,
or Madera, we keep our .seats in the car ; but, if our ticket pro
vides for entering the great Valley via Stockton, Milton, and the
Calaveras Big Trees, or Milton direct, we change both ourselves
and our baggage to the Stockton train. For particulars concern
ing routes beyond Lathrop, the reader is referred to one or other
of succeeding chapters so tbat he may obtain the information de
sired on the one he has decided to take.

CHAPTER XV.
THE BAY AND EIVEK ROUTES TOWAKDS YO SEMITE.
Breathe soft, ye winds! ye waves, in silence sleep. —Gay.
You know I say
Just what I think, and nothing more or less,
Aud, when I pray, my heart is in my prayer.
I cannot say one thing and mean another:
If I can't pray, I will not make believe!
— Longfellow's Christus, Pt. III.
The fall of waters and the song of birds,
And hills that echo to the distant herds,
Are luxuries excelling all the glare
The world can boast, and her chief favorites share.
— Cowper's Retirement.
About two hundred yards northerly of the Market Street
Wharf lies that of Washington Street, whence sail the San
Joaquin River steamboats bound for Stockton, on the Milton,
Calaveras, Big Tree, and Big Oak Flat routes to Yo Semite, -udth
other destinations. If the freight is all aboard, they sail at five
o'clock p. M. ; but, if not, they generally delay starting until it is.
As at the Market Street Wharf, the scene here is full of excite
ment, and of positive interest, although not partaking, altogether,
of the sarae characteristics. The forraer is quiet and methodical;
while this is irregular, and somewhat contentious; owing to the
established rivalry between the two lines. Each has its friends ;
and both employ their own advocates. Eagerness to possess pas
sengers, at any cost of eloquence, or of tact, is of more moment
ous consideration, at this juncture, than any rules o: ordinary
courtesy, or of personal convenience. But, once on board either
of the boats, you are safely delivered from that vortex of conten
tion, and peace reigns supreme. Polite attention places you entirely
(191)

192 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
at your ease; and, if the war of words is still raging below, it only
becomes a source of amusement, to beguile the otherwise wearymg
raoments of waiting. This, however, is of short duration, as
orders are soon given by the captain to " Take in the plank,"
'' Cast off" your lines;" and, just as we are about to move out from
the wharf, there is alraost sure to be one or more passengers that
have arrived, just too late to get aboard ; and who, in their excite
ment, often throw their overcoat, or valise, or other articles on
the boat (or overboard), yet neglect the only opportune moment of
getting on themselves; and, consequently, are not only left be
hind, but are separated frora their baggage; and which, perhaps,
contains the only treasures they possess on earth ! Not inconsid
erately of this, let us hope, AWAY WE SAIL.
Who, at such a season, does not recall the peaceful calm that
uninvitedly steals over the spirit the very moraent the boat has
cast off her moorings, and sails out upon the placid waters of the
Bay? All of the fatigues and wearying cares of the few last
hours ashore — and something, kept to the last, is almost sure to
go unaccomplished — are left, with it, behind; and, for the time
being at least, are merged into absolute forgetfulness. Now
comes the .season of bewitching, perfect, unrestrained coraposure,
as calra as the brine over which we are gliding. At such a be
fitting tirae for impressions, and mood for enjoyment, every object
presenting itself reveals to us an exalted interpretation. The
golden sheen of the setting sun, as it lights up the pathway of
commerce through the Golden Gate, seems brighter and more
golden as we pass it. Even the fog-banks that sometimes roll
through the Golden Gate, in suraraer, have silvery edges ; and the
haze that drapes each mountain height, or dreamily sleeps in
far-off canons, is of a more ethereal purple when we thus prepar
edly comraune with nature's mysterious 'wonders. Now we are
sailing past, let us take

Photo, by Ceo. Fiske.

Photo-typo hy Britton l'V AVy, 5, /¦.

ISLHND RflPIDS. FROM TiS-Sfl-flCK BRIDGE.
(See page 392.)

THE YO SEMITE YALLEY. 193
A GLIMPSE THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE
There is a peculiarly seductive charm that stealthily yet
feeling]}' carries one into the far dreamy past, as he looks upon
this scene ; and recalls old-tirae raemories, when this was alraost
the only entrance to the land of gold. How revertingly the sight
again brings into review the golden-winged hopes, and heart-throb
bing yearnings of the many who entered, or wished to enter, its
charmed portals, " in days of auld lang," and make it the admis
sion gate to fame and fortune ; but who, perhaps, after coming
through it, spent years of unremitting and unrequited toil;
and yet hoped, aye, longed, to pass through it once again, to
that place still endearingly called " home " —
' ' That spot of earth, by love supremely blest,
A dearer, sweeter .'tpot, than all the rest,"
With a chastened sadness in the heart, because they had hoped and
yearned in vain. But to those whom success had crowned with
its exhilarating laurels, how exultingly — and let us hope grate
fully — welcome was their homeward passage through the Golden
Gate ; to share their fortunes with beloved ones, who, perhaps, had
long been expectantly awaiting their return.
Many have supposed that the origin and meaning of the
name given to this entrance to the Bay of San Francisco was sug
gested by the staple minei'al of the country, gold. This is an
error, as it was called The Golden Gate " before the precious
metal was discovered. It was probably used for the first tirae
in a work entitled " A Geographical Review of California," by
Col. J. C. Fremont, published, with a map, in New York,
February, 1848 ; and as gold was discovered on the I9th of January
preceding, the news could not have reached the oflSce of publica
tion, in those days, in tirae to influence this noraenclature. It
is true there "raay have been" some "spiritual telegrams" (!)
sent to the author of the narae. Col. J. C. Freraont, telling him of
the glorious dawn of a golden day that had broken upon the
world by the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, Coloma, and thus
become suggestive of the golden age, about to be inaugurated, and
13

194

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

of the name. Its real origin was owing to the excessively pro
ductive lands of the interior, especially those around the Bay of
San i'rancisco. From whatever source the name " Golden Gate "
has sprung, its characteristic appropriateness will be unhesitatingly

PAS.SING THE GOLDEN GATE.
conceded. Having dwelt somewhat at length upon the narae,
let us now briefiy describe the place.
The Golden Gate, then, is the only entrance by sea to the
land-locked and magnificent harbor of San Francisco. It is
situated in the narrowest part of the channel, between Fort Point
and Lime Point. Its width is one thousand, seven hundred and
seventy-seven yards. Here the tide ebbs and flows at the rate of
about six knots an hour, and rises or falls sorae seven feet. The
center of the Gate is in longitude I22°30'' frora Greenwich.
Through this fiows the drainage of all the rivers from the High ¦
Sierra, entering the valleys of thc Sacraraento and San Joaqum,
as well as from several tributaries of the Coast Range. It has

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. I95
depth sufficient to float, safely, ships of the heaviest tonnao-e
Even the circular sand-bar at its entrance, seven miles in leno-th
offers no obstacle to this, even at low tide; except, possibly, when
the wind is blowing heavily from the northwest, west, or south
east; then it is scarcely safe for a vessel of the largest class to
cross it at low tide. On the south side of the Golden Gate is Point
Lobos (Wolves Pomt), from whence vessels at sea are signaled-
and on the northern, Point Bonita, upon which is a light-house;'
while opposite Lime Point stands the frowning fort, Winfield
Scott.

THE FORT, NEAR VIEW.

You can see by its grim and defiant presence that it means
business, when the order comes to "let loose the dogs of war." It
is four tiers in height, the topmost of which is sixty-four feet above
low tide, and is capable of mounting one hundred and fifty guns
— including a battery on the hill at its back — of forty -two, sixty-
four, and one hundred and twenty-eight pounders, besides rifled

196 AV THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
cannon of improved pattern. During an engagement, two thou
sand four hundred men can be accoraraodated here.
There is a light-house adjoining the Fort, that can be seen
for sorae ten or twelve miles outside ; connected with which is a
fog-bell weighing eleven hundred pounds, that is worked by
raachinery, and strikes five consecfutive taps ten seconds apart;
then has an interraission of thirty -four seconds, when it re-com
mences the ten-second strike. This is carried on continuously in
foggy weather.
At a convenient distance from Fort Point is the Presidio,
which is the residence and head-quarters of both officers and men
for this military district. Others are stationed at Point San Jose,
formerly called Black Point. To outline these even, with their
maneuverings, music, life, etc., would detain us too long; but it
is hoped that this "raere mention" will induce you to pay each
one of these a visit, to see and enjoy them at your leisure, upon
your return.
But as the keel of our boat is speedily cutting its way
through the water, we pass Alcatraz and Angel Islands; obtam
glances of the snug little towns of Saucelito and San Rafael,
catch a hasty sight of the State Prison at San Quentin ; and,
almost before Ave realize it, are opposite a gaudily stratified island
known as

RED OR " TREASURE " ROCK.
This bright-colored little island was forraerly called Treasure,
and, in old charts. Golden Rock, frora a traditionary report
circulated that vast treasures had been buried there, by pirates
and old Spanish navigators. Such stories were always sufficiently

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 197
stimulating to induce the semi-demented adventurer, and dime
novel reader, to attempt the securing of wealth with as little exer
tion as possible of his own. Hence the representative " treasure
hunter " found occupation here, and, as elsewhere, went unre
warded for his pains.
It is now exclusively called " Red Rock," being composed of
numerous strata, of an endless variety of colors, the prevailing one
being red. There is an article found here that strikingly re
sembles one sometimes found upon a lady's toilet table (in early
days, of course) known as rouge-powder (exclusively monopolized
in these modern times by the theatrical profession). Besides this
there are several veins of decomposed rock resembling clay, or
pigment, from four to twelve inches in thickness, and from steel-
gray to bright red in color. Upon the beach sraall red pebbles,
resembling carnelian, are found in abundance. But on, on we
sail ; passing Maria Island, and

THE TWO SISTERS,
Both of which are covered with sea-birds that seem to be taste
fully and gracefully busy pluming their feathers ; and who raake
this their roosting places at night, no matter where they raay
have wandered during the day.
Just beyond these we shoot by San Pablo Point (which juts
out frora the mainland) and enter the placid waters of the bay of
San Pablo. The distant hills, with their lights and shadows,
and varied verdure, encompassing us, are not less attractive upon
water than on land for they seem to charm us into forgetfulness
of the fact that, almost before we realize it, the hills are closing
in upon us, and we are rapidly

198

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

ENTERING TEE STRAITS OF CARQUINEZ.
The Straits of Carquinez connect the bays of San Pablo and
Suisun ; and, as raentioned in the foregoing chapter, are the only
outlet for all the interior waters of the great basin of the Sacra
mento and San Joaquin Rivers, with all their tributaries. Our
course lies through these straits; but, just before entering them, on
our left-hand, we obtain a distant view of the Governraent
Works at Mare Island, and the town of Vallejo; and, as we sail
onward towards the hills, the impression comes, almost irresistibly,
that we are certainly running into the bluffs ahead of us, and into
trouble at the same tirae; but a slight deviation in om- course, at
just the right turn in the channel, proves that the knowledge and
skill of the captain are superior to our own — which raay be a little
surprising !
When safely passing the narrowest part of the channel, we
seera to be raeeting " the leviathan of the deep," or some other

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 199
huge monster that is coraing down fearlessly upon us an<l is
about to swallow us up, as Jonah swallowed the whale (?)• but
just as we might suppose it to be opening its immense mouth for
one easy effbrt, it shoots to one side (as we do to the other) as
much as to say, " You needn't be afraid of me, I am only the
C. P. R. R. transit boat Solano, on my way from Benicia to"Port
Costa!"

Wl'V,ir'Af\Wl\ll
LOOKING TOWARD THE SACRAMENTO EIVER.

200

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

It would detain us too long to tell of the many interesting
places to visit at Benicia — once the capital of the State — or the
objects worthy of notice at Army Point, and Martinez (briefly
outlined in the last chapter) ; so, if you please, we will regretfully
pass these, just as the moonlight is silvering the waters of
THE BAY OF SUISUN.
This, with its numerous islands (almost level with the surface at
high water), is nearly as large as the bay of San Pablo. At one
time, " in the uninterpretable past," it must have resembled a
small inland sea, inasmuch asthe broad expanse of the tule lands,
now covering several thousands of square miles, once formed a
portion of the bay. An apparently interminable sea of tules
extends nearly one hundred and fifty miles northeasterly up the
valley of the Sacramento, and for more than half that distance
southerly, up the valley of the San Joaquin, with an average
wiilth of thirty miles ; and as nearly all of this land is overflowed
during high water there can be but little doubt of its once hav
ing formed an immense lake.

SALiaoN FISHING — PAYING OUT THE SEINE.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

201

THE SAN JOAQUIN RIVER.
Deriving its main source from the living glaciers of Mt.
Ritter, the Minarets, and other lofty peaks of the High Sierra,
whence it hurries rapidly to the plains, but runs sluggishly
through these tules, and forras one of the most serpentine of all
rivers out-of-doors. It is navigable for somewhat coraraodious
stearaboats and large schooners to Stockton, and sorae seventy
railes beyond for sraaller craft. It makes its debouchure into the
bay of Suisun just above Cornwall and Antioch, landings for the
Monte Diablo coal mines.

SALMON FISHING — HAULING IN THB SEINE.
Were we passing this earlier in the day, the scene would pos
sibly be enlivened by the sight of sundry small boats, and men
engaged in salmon flshing, which still forms quite an impor
tant industry here, and at the junction of the Sacramento River
with the Bay of Suisun; interesting, however, as it might be to
linger here, and watch the modus operandi of taking in this
valuable fish, wc must now forego it.

202

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

L .uimu&^UDiin'.sck
SALMON FISHING — A GROUP OF SALMON.
After touching at the latter settlements for the disembarka
tion of passengers and cai'go, we are soon sailing upon the turbid
waters of the San Joaquin. But for the overshadowing mountaia
of Monte Diablo, whose oranipresence still asserts itself here as
elsewhere, the scenery would prove to be very uninteresting.
But, as the evening is calm (and sultry, perhaps) the mosquitoes
may off'er a little divertisement; as, possibly, this may be their
harvest season ; and, as a consequence, a large representation may
be out, on a free-booting excursion. Now, although their harvest-
home song may be very musical to those who can enjoy its feel
ing refrain, it becomes penetratingly evident to any disinterested
observer, that but few persons on board seem to have an appreci
ative ear for their music ! In order, however, to show that they
have no idea of being overlooked, or neglected, the mosquitoes take

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 203
real pleasure in impressing their embossed notes upon the hands,
faces, or foreheads of all unwatchful sleepers — even though their
slumbers may have been involuntary from exhaustion, or in com
bating their m.usical enemies. While this unequal warfare is
going on, and for one caicass slain a dozen mourners come to the
funeral, we may as well do soraething raore than fight these little
bill-presenting, tax-collecting tormentors ; so, please permit me to
relate an incident that occurred, just as I was leaving ray South
ern horae, on the banks of the " Father of waters," the old Missis
sippi, in the spring of 1849: —
A gentleman arrived from " Merr}"- England," with excellent
letters of introduction, and was at once admitted a member of our
family circle. Now, however 'strange it raay appear, this gentle
man had never looked upon a live mosquito — there being no such
insect in England — and as a sequence M-as as unfamiliar with a
mosquito-net and its uses, as the average office-holder might be
with politeness. The/ew^ifl de charge being- unware of this, had
omitted to call his attention to the arrangements there for pass
ing a comfortable night. In the morning, when he presented
hiraself at the breakfast-table, his face was nearly coveied with
wounds frora the enemy's proboscis ; without seemingly noticing
this, the lad}' of the house politely inquired if he had slept pleas
antly; " Ye-yes," he replied with sorae hesitation " ye-yes, tol-er-
a-bly pleasant, the bed Avas sufficiently corafortable, but, a — a —
small — fly annoyed me somewhat." At this confession the
a.ssembled company could not refrain from a good hearty laugh,
in which the English gentleman most cordially joined, although
it was at his expense. The good-natured hostess, after duly sup
pressing her risibility, explained the u.ses and arrangements of
the mosquito-bar, to insure comfort in mosquito-infested countries,
to the entire satisfaction of her guest. But the small fly was a
source of considerable rairthfulness in our social circles there for
a long time afterwards.
"Boxing the compass" in every conceivable direction, on a
sea of tules; stopping- here and slowing there, to avoid a jutting

204 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
point of tales, or compass a bend of the circuitous river, upon
which we are supposed to be sailing ; our attention is attracted by
a bright light in the distance, accompanied by the startling infor
mation that THE TULES ARE ON FIRE.
To those who are unfamiliar with the water-plant, well known
in California as the tule, or, raore generally called, tules, a briefiy
outlined sketch may not be unacceptable, especially as the word
is not to be found in " Worcester," or in " Webster Unabridged."
Its botanical name is Scirpus palustris, var. Californica. In
form and habit it resembles the eastern flag, with this differ
ence; the flag is flat, while the tule is round for two-thirds of its
height, tapering to a point, and flattening as it tapers, like a
sailor's needle. Although perennial in character, its growth is
armual, and from six to twelve feet. Owing to the inexhau.stible
quantities and the vast area covered by this plant, effbrts have
not Ijeen wanting to press it into useful service; for paper, encas
ing of bottles, life-preservers, underlying for carpets, etc., and,
far life-preservers it is worth four to one of cork. This, when
closely interwoven and stretched upon a frarae, then covered with
pitch, is said to make a boat as light as a bark canoe.
Let it be remembered that there are slightly elevated grounds,
and islands, in this sea of tules, that are not only inhabited, but
which are susceptible of high cultivation ; and are of marvelous
productiveness, after the native plant is subdued; from three to
four crops a year having been harvested therefrora. An intelli
gent gentleraan, well known to the writer, reliably informed him
that, while gathering one crop of wheat, yielding sixty-five bushels
to the acre, a neighbor of his was just sowing the adjoining lands;
and harvested his crop in sixty days thereafter ! One cultivator
has six thousand acres of potatoes in a patch, on Roberts'
Island. Most of the vegetables used in Stockton are procured
frora the tule lands. But from the uncertainties and dangers of
occasional high water, these tule lands would becorae exceedingly
valuable — and will be when a thoroughly efficient systera of
leveeing and drainage are adopted.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

205

And let us, if you please, suppose that a flood-proof protect
ive levee has been constructed around two hundred thousand
acres of this productive land; with drains, waste-gates, and every
other contrivance to insure its being thoroughly done, at an
estiraated cost of $20,000,000. Then let us, if you please, suppose
that this area has been put into successful cultivation, and will
yield sixty -five bushels to the acre, the total product for a single
crop (and two can be easily raised) would be thirteen raillion
bushels; which, at the low estimate of sixty cents per bushel,
would aggregate $7,800,000 annually, and of course would double
that amount should two crops be realized.
But, while we have been talking, our steamboat has been
drawing nearer and nearer to the conflagration, S(j that we can
see the broad sheet of devouring- blaze leaping into the air, and
with tongue of flame licking up everything that is combustible,
like a prairie on fire; and which, with the black smoke surging
hither and thither, its edges and masses covered with a lurid glare.

THE SAN JOAQUIN RIVER AT NIGHT— TOLES ON FIRE.

206

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

presents a scene of fearful grandeur, that becomes suggestive of
sorae earthly panderaoniura. In adrairation, we forget the raos
quitoes, and even the discordant and hoarse shriek of the so-called
"steara-whistle," that is now announcing our approach to a
landing. Whenever a dry season coraes upon California the succulent
pastures found here, by stock, supplies the needed forage. But

ENTERING THB STOCKTON SLOUGH.

as we are now at the junction of the Stockton Slough with the
San Joaquin River, we proceed up the forraer for three miles, and
are at the end of our voyage, and the wharf of the city of
Stockton.

CHAPTER XVI.
THE MILTON AND CALAVERAS BIG TREE ROUTE.
And those that paint them truest praise them most.
— Addison's Campaign.
Thought is deeper than all speech;
Feeling deeper than all thought;
Souls to souls can never teach
What unto themselves was taught. — C. P. Ckanch.
So nature deals with us, and takes away
Our playthings one by one, and by the hand
Leads us to rest so gently, that we go.
Scarce knowing if we wish to go or stay,
Being too full of sleep to imderstand
How far the unknown transcends the what we know.
— Longfellow's Nature.
Having arrived at Lathrop by the raain or trunk line of
the Central Pacific Railroad, and having arranged to journey via
the Calaveras Big Tree Route, we enter the train bound for Stock
ton ; and, the run being only some nine miles, it is veiy soon accora
plished. As the country is coraparatively level, theie is but little
to excite interest, except to those who delight in pastoral loveliness,
until we are near that city. Then the suburban residences, peep
ing out from between the umbrageous oaks, and the church spires
to-n^ering above thera, tell that we shall soon enter its hospitable
precincts. Acting upon the suggestion made .in a former chapter,
" when it is possible not to be in a hurry," with your permissi(jn,
we will allow the train to depart without us this morning, and
take a stroll through THE CITY OF STOCKTON.
This flourishing commercial city is advantageously situated
at the head of a deep navigable slough, or arm of the San Joaquin
(207)

208 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
River, about three miles above its junction with that stream.
The luxuriant foliage of its trees, the thrifty growth of its shrubs,
and plants of eveiy kind, give voiceless commendation to its
founders for choosing so desirable a situation. It is true that, as
this was the head of navigation for all supplies needed in the
proverbially rich gold mines of Tuolumne and Mariposa Counties,
and intermediate points, it became a natural landing place; and,
as such, was therefore suggestive of the suitability of this lo
cation for the building of a city. As a result, tents and cloth
houses .sprung up like mushrooras; but the fire of December 2.3,
1849, entirely swept away the last vestige of this city of cloth, and
destroyed other property to the value of over two hundred thousand
dollars. Almost before its ruins had ceased sraouldering, however,
a new and cleaner city, coraposed of an admixture of cloth and
wood, was erected in its place. In the following spring nearly
all the cloth houses were superseded by wooden ones, and as this
embrio city was now in steam communication with its base of
supplies at San Francisco, assurance was given of its future
stability and permanence, and justified the removal of wooden
structures, and their replacement by those of brick.
On the SOth of March, 1850, the first weekly newspaper was
published by Messrs. Radcliffe and White, conducted by Mr. John
White — afterwards well known by newspaper raen in the Bay
City. On the sarae day the first theatrical perforraance was given
in the Asserably Room of the Stockton House, by Bingham and
Fury. The first election was held on the 13th of May following,
the population at that early day numbering over two thousand.
The Stockton Fire Department was organized June 20 (1850),
and Jaraes E. Nuttman (afterwards associated with the fire de
partraent of San Francisco) was elected chief engineer. On Wy&
25th of July, ensuing, Stockton was incorporated as a city.
May 6, I85I, another fire swept away nearly every building, and
destroyed property valued at a million and a half of dollars.
Nothing daunted, a new city sprung up. Phoenix-like, from its
ashes; and from that day to this the raarch of iraprovement has

fm.'

-^"*i^

„, , . „ ^ . , ¦^^ Photo-tvpo hv Britton & Rey, S. F.
Photo, by Geo. Ptste. '

>t

North Dome -To-coy- .«.
(See page 383.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

209

U

kept coramensurate progress with the spirit
of the age, and the requirements of its steady
developraent. Owing to the general healthi
ness of its climate, and the convenience of
its location, Stockton A\as chosen, by an Act
of the Legislature of 1853, for the erection
here of a State asylum for the insane ; and
this, with greatly enlarged accommodation,
has been continued here ever since.
PRAIRIE SCHOONERS.
< 'ne of the most striking features of the
commerce of this city in early days, and one
that well deserves to be commemorated, was
~ the large nuniber of heavily laden freight
I wagons that used to leave it for the raines.
These, owing to their huge bulk and enor
mous carrying capacity, were, not inap
propriately, denominated " Prairie Schoon
ers," and "Steamboats of the Plains."
They would average twenty -five thousand
H pounds per trip. The cost of wagons was
^ from $900 to *1 ,100, and they \\'ere generally
over twenty feet in length. Large mules,
having the requisite strength, used to cost
$350 each; and some, the finest and best,
$1,400 per span. The main advantage of
these large tearas was the economy in
teamsters, as one man could drive and tend
as many as fourteen aniraals, always guid
ing them with a single line. They were
drilled like soldiers, and were almost as
tractable ; and when a teamster cracked his
whip its report was like that of a revolver.
The unusually large nuraber of wind
mills are suggestive of the preferred method

210 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
of irrigation and of water supply. Notwithstanding this, Stock
ton can boast of having
THE DEEPEST ARTESIAN WELL IN THE STATE.
It is one thousand and two feet deep, and throws out two
hundred and fifty gallons of water per minute, or three hundred
and sixty thousand gallons every twenty-four hours, and to the
height of nine feet above the city grade. In sinking this well,
ninety-six different strata of loam, clay, micacious sand, soft green
sandstone, gravel, etc., etc., weie passed through. Three hundred
and forty feet from the surface, a stump of one of the big trees
was found imbedded in the sand, from whence a stream of water
issued to the top, although not in sufficient quantities to affbrd
the supply desired, hence its continuance to the depth raentioned
The temperature of the water was 77° Fahrenheit.
The various strata bored through, indicate beyond question,
that not only this, but nearly all other valleys were at one time
inland lakes, that have been filled up and formed by the denuda
tion and lowering of the contiguous raountains, in the unrecorded
ages of the far ilistant past. The siliceous sediment constantly
floating down all our rivers, especially during high water, is m-
controvertible proof that continuous denudation is still an active
force in lowering mountains, and in forming valleys.
It would make our advent here extremely interesting could
we visit the tanneries, carriage factories, agricultural implement
manufactories, canning establishments, the two flouring mills,
woolen and paper mills, schools, free library, etc., not omitting the
State asylum for the insane, which would be found a raodel of
cleanliness and good management. After this brief outline of
Stockton and its attractions, with your permission we will now
resume our journey.
Almost before we are fair]}' seated in the car, we shoot out from
the station at Stockton, leaving the Central Paciflc Railroad,
and taking the Stockton and Copperopolis Railroad for Milton;
and as we are rolling out from araong the tasteful suburban
residences of the city, under the gracefully pendant white oaks

THE CALAVERAS BIG TREE ROUTE,
From San Frtxnchco^ 'via Lathrop^ Stockton^ Milton^ Murphy's^ Calaveras Big
Tree Groves Sonora^ Chinese Camp, and Big Oak Flat, to Yosemite Valley.
Stations marked (a) are stopping places at night for stage passengers; those marked {b) are
hotels, or where meals can be had; those marked (t:) are where hay and grain are obtainable;
those marked {d) are stage stations.

STATIONS.

Distances i.n Miles.

p c

By Rail'way.
Frotn San Francisco to —
Lathrop, junction of the Central Pacific with the Southern Pa
cific Railroad {be)  - 
Stockton, on Central Pacific Railroad {a b c) 
Milton, on the Stockton and Copperopolis Railroad (bed) 

By Carriage Road.
From Milton to—
Reservmr House {be) 
Gibson's Station {bed) 
A.caville {be) 
Murphy's {bed) 
Half-way House {be). 
Calaveras Big Tree Grove Hotel {abed) 
Half-way House, returning {be) 
Murphy ^{a b c d) ..^ 
Vallecito {be) 
Trail to Natural Bridge 
Parrott's Ferry, Stanislaus River. 
Gold Spring 
Columbia ib e) 
Sonora {bed) 
Chinese Camp {ab c a^ 
Priest's Hotel— for full details see "Big Oak Flat Route" U<^ca')
Tuolumne Big Tree Grove 
Leidig's Hotel, Yosemite Valley (abed)  .
Cook's Hotel, Yosemite Valley {abed)  
Barnard's Hotel, Yosemite Valley {abed) 

94-03 9.02
30.00

6.13
10.87 5 50
7.50 8.117-31 7-318.114.16 3- 32
2.273-'7 1.15
4.17
11 00
12.1133-43 15.84 0.30 o 77

133.05

94.03

39 02

103.05

30.00

133.05

152-53

6.13

146.40

17.00

135-53

22.50

13003

30.00

122.53

38.11

114.42

45 42
52-73
60.8465 00
6a.3:i

107.11 99.8091.69 87-53
84.21

70.59
73.76 74.9179.08
90.o£

8194 78-7777.62 73-1562.45

102.19 135.62151.46151.76

50 34
15-84 1.07
0.77

152-53

2829
376
1,013
1,570 1,520
2.195 3.358
4-730 3.358 2,195 1,748 834
2.014 2,1,7 1,8 6
I. 99
2.. 58
5. 04
3,934
RECAPITULATION.
Ey railway  133-05 mil«.
By carriage road   152-53
Total distance  285.58 miles.
212 IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS
(Q. lobata), and pa.st the fertile farras of this portion of the vallev
of the San Joaquin, a quiet, gentleraanly person, whose narae is
Mr. Robert Patton, politely introduces hiraself to us by inquiring,
" May I ask what is your proposed destination, beyond Milton?
I am the agent for the different stage lines leaving there for all
the various points beyond." Receiving satisfactory replies,
our naraes are entered on the way-bill; and, upon arrival at
Milton, we find a row of stages backed up against the platforra,
and awaiting us; with every coachman on his box, and the reins
in his hand, ready for the start, the moment Mr. Patton gives
him the signal. As we are supposed, on this occasion, to have
chosen the route via the Calaveras Big Tree Groves, the agent
has seen that ourselves and baggage are safely placed upon the
Murphy's stage. Murphy's being en route ior that point, when
" All set " is shouted to the coachman, and away we go.
As every one knows, the raost desirable of all nlaces on a
stage coach is that known as the "box-seat." This is with
the coachraan; for, if he is intelligent, and in a good humor, he
can tell you of all the sights by the way ; with the personal history
of nearly every man and woraan you may meet ; the qualities and
"points " of every horse upon the road; with all the adventures,
jokes, and other good things he has seen and heard during his
thousand and one trips, under all kinds of circurastances, and in
all sorts of weather. In short, he is a living road-encyclopedia,
to be read and studied at intervals, by the occupant of the " box-
seat." You saw that look and motion of the coachman's head? That
was at once a sign of recognition and of invitation to the privileged
seat at his side, as we are old acquaintances. But, as you are a
stranger, and as every excursion of real pleasure — like the happiest
experiences of social life — become dependent to a very great ex
tent upon little courtesies and kindnesses, that cost nothing, we
will, if you please, set the good example of foregoing selfishness
by trying to .secure that .seat for you. No thanks are needed, as
every pleasure is doubled by being shared. Now, suppo.se that

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 213
you are the occupant of the "box-seat," wa will raake one sug
gestion — invite the driver to accept one of your best cigars ; and,
as its sraoke and fragrance are rising on the air, he will gradually
soften to you, and both will becorae better acquainted before you
have traveled far.
There is a feeling of jovial, good-huraored pleasurableness that
steals insensibly over the spirit when the .secluded residents of
cities leave all the cares of a daily routine of duties behind, and
the novelty of freSh scenes forras new sources of enjoyraent.
Especially is it so when seated comfortably in an easy-going coach ;
with the prospect before us of witnessing many of the most won
derful sights to be found in any country, either in the Old or New
World; and, more especially, if wehave learned to take a journey,
as it is said that a Frenchraan does his dinner, thei-eby enjoying it
three tiraes ; first, in anticipation ; second, in participation ; and
third, on retrospection !
For several miles before arriving at Milton, as for two or
three beyond, the entire country is covered with sedimentary de
posits, and water-washed gravel ; and, as there are no such ele
mental forces at work in the present day, they off'er conjectural
revelations of very diff'erent conditions in the past, while being-
suggestive of pertinent inquiries for the time and cause of change.
It is over these, for the raost part treeless and rolling hills,
that our road now lies. It is true there is one clump of white
post oaks (Quercus Douglasi) about half a mile from IMilton;
remarkable only for its being the favorite resort of a species of
bird, somewhat scarce in California, known as the magpie.
Leaving the gravelly hills, we enter upon a graded road up a deep
ravine, where shrubs and trees begin to add an interest to the
landscape. At the top of the hill we reach the Reservoir House
(so named from a large reservoir near, built for mining purposes),
where the horses rest, and where both man and beast take water,
(the former, occasionally, something a little stronger). Here are
seen the first pine trees (Pinus Sabiniana).
Beyond this for many miles the country is gently undulating.

214 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
yet is sparsely timbered with post oaks. At Gibson's Station
horses are exchanged, and the hungry can eat. Five miles beyond
this wc find ourselves at Altaville ; a sprightly little mining camp,
in a gold-mining district, where we cross flumes and ditches,
filled with water made muddy by washing out the precious metal,
and where can be witnessed all the modus operandi of gold min
ing. Still our course is upward as well as onward, until we are
over two thousand feet above sea level, and at
THE MIXING VILLAGE OF MURPHY's.
Now, although the gold mines here have been among the
richest. Murphy's was but little known, beyond its raore immediate
surroundings, until the discovery of the Big Tree Groves of Cala
veras (the first of this species ever found) ; and, more recently, the
adjacent remarkable cave. Its proximity to, and the starting-
point for, the new wonders, lifted it into world-wide notoriety,
almost at a bound. It is deserving of record, however, that the
discovery of those enormous trees must be credited, in a degree,
to the business raen of Murphy's, through whose enterprise, in
cidentally, they were first seen; as the sequel, obtained by the
writer from the discoverer himself, will abundantly show: —
HOW AND WHEN THE BIG TREES OF CALAVERAS WERE FIRST DIS
COVERED.
In the spring of 1852, Mr. A. T. Dowd, a hunter, was em
ployed by the Union Water Company, of Murphy's, Calaveras
County, to supply the workmen engaged in the construction of
their canal, with fresh meat, from the large quantities of game
running wild on the upper portion of their works. While engaged
in this calling, having wounded a grizzly bear, and while industri
ously pursuing him, he suddenly came upon one of those immense
trees that have since become so justly celebrated throughout the
civilized world. All thoughts of hunting were absorbed and lost
in the wonder and surprise inspired by the scene. " Surely," he
mused, " this must be some curiously delusive dream ! " But the
great realities indubitably confronting him

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 215
proof, beyond question, that they were no mere fanciful crea
tions of his imagination.
Returning to camp, he there related the wonders he had
seen, when his corapanions laughed at him ; and even questioned his
veracity, which, previously, they had considered to be in every
way reliable. He affirmed his statement to be true ; but they still
thought it "too big a story" to believe, supposing that he was
trying to perpetrate upon them some first-of- April joke.
For a day or two he allowed the matter to rest; submitting,
with chuckling satisfaction, to their occasional jocular allusions
to " his big tree yarn," but continued hunting as formerly. On
the Sunday morning ensuing, he went out early as usual, but
soon returned in haste, apparently excited by somo great event,
when he exclaimed, "Boys, I have killed the largest grizzly bear
that 1 ever saw in my life. While I am getting- a little something
to eat, 3'ou raake every preparation for bringing him in; all had
better go that can possibly be spared, as their assistance will cer
tainly be needed."
As the big tree story was now almost forgotten, or by com
mon consent laid aside as a subject of conversation ; and, moreover,
as Sunday was a leisure day, and one that generally hangs the
heaviest of the seven on those who are shut out from social or
religious intercourse with friends, as many Californians unfortu
nately were and still are, the tidings were gladly welcomed, es
pecially as the proposition was suggestive of a day's intense
excitement. Nothing loath, they were soon ready for the start. The
camp was almost deserted. On, on they hurried, with Dowd as
their guide, through thickets and pine groves ; crossing ridges and
caiions, flats, and ravines, each relating in turn the adventures
experienced, or heard of from corapanions, with grizzly bears, and
other formidable tenants of the mountains, untd. their leader came
to a halt at the foot of the immense tree he had seen, and to them
had represented the approxiraate size. Pointing to its extraordi
nary diaraeter and lofty height, he exultingly exclairaed, " Now,

216 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
boys, do you believe my big tree story? That is the large grizzly
I wanted you to see. Do you now think it a yarn? " By this
ruse of their leader all doubt was changed into certainty, and
unbelief into amazement ; as, speechless with profound awe, their
admiring gaze was riveted upon those forest giants.
But a .short season was allowed to elapse before the trumpet-
tongued press proclaimed abroad the wonder; and the intelligent
and devout worshipers, in nature and science, flocked to the Big
Tree Groves of Calaveras, for the purpose of seeing for themselves
the astounding raarvels about which they had heard so much. In
a subsequent chapter will 1 le found full particulars concerning the
naming, habits, characteristics, and comparative area of this
species, to which the reader is referred.
EOAD TO THE MAMMOTH TREE GROVE.
Leaving the mining village of Murphy's behind, we pass
through an avenue of trees; and, about half a mile from town,
enter a narrow caiion, up which we travel, now upon this side of
the streara, and now on that, as the hills proved favorable or other
wise, for the construction of the road. If our visit is supposed to
be in spring or early suramer, every mountain-side, even to the
tops of the ridges, is covered with flowers and flowering shrubs of
great variety and beauty ; while, on either hand, groves of oaks
and pines stand as shade-giving guardians of personal corafort.
As we continue the ascent for a few miles our course becomes
more undulating and gradual ; and, for the most part on the top or
gently sloping sides of a dividing ridge; often through dense
forests of tall, magnificent pines that are from one hundred and
seventy, to two hundred and twenty feet in height; slender, and
straight as an arrow. We measured one that had fallen, that
was twenty inches in diameter at the base, and fourteen and a
half inches in diameter at the distance of one hundred and
twenty -five feet from the base. The ridges being nearly clear of
an undergrowth of shrubbery; and the trunks of the trees, for
fifty feet upward, or more, entirely clear of branches, the eye

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 217
can wander, delightedly, for a long- distance, among these capti
vating scenes of the forest.
At diff'erent distances upon the route, the canal of the Union
Water Company winds its sinuous way on, or around, the sides of
the ridge ; or its sparkling contents rush irapetuously down the
water-furrowed center of a ravine. Here and there an aqueduct,
or cabin, or saw raill, gives variety to an ever-changing landscape.
When within about four and a half railes of the Mammoth Tree
Grove, the surrounding- raountain peaks and ridges are boldly
visible. Looking southeast, the uncovered head of Bald Mount
ain silently announces its solitude and distinctiveness; west, the
Coast Range of raountains forras a continuous girdle to the
horizon ; extending to the north and east, where the snow-covered
tops of the Sierras forra a magnificent background to the glorious
picture. The deepening shadows of the densely timbered forest through
which we are passing, by the awe they inspire, impressiA-ely in
tiraate that we are soon to enter the imposing presence of those
forest giants, the Big Trees of Calaveras, and almost before we
realize our actual nearness, we catch the inviting gleam of the
Calaveras Big Tree Grove Hotel. On our way to it, the carriage
road passes directly between the
TWO SENTINELS,
Each of which is over three hundred feet in height, and the larger
one of the two is twenty-three feet in diameter at the base. But
as no one can thoroughly enjoy the wonderful, or beautiful, with
a tired body, or upon an empty stomach, let us, for the present
at least, prefer the refreshing coraforts and kindly hospitalities of
this coraraodious and well-kept inn, to a walk about the grove.
According to Capt. Geo. M. Wheeler's U. S. Geographical
Survey Reports, the Calaveras Big Tree Grove Hotel is 2,-535 feet
above Murphy's, and 4,730 feet above sea level. It stands in
latitude 38° north, and in longitude 1 20° 10' west frora Greenwich.
The forest in which the Big Trees stand was so densely tirabered

h9mo»>aa

Bi>.J-IS owtd

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 219
that m.any hundreds of trt?es had to be cut down " to let in a little
sunlight" to the hotel site. Here, in a gently sloping declivity,
or hollow, of the main divide, .separating San Antonio Creek on
the north, and the north fork of the Stanislaus River on the south
(two favorite trouting strearas), is located this reraarkable grove.
After refreshraent and rest we are in better condition to
exaraine the different objects of interest that have attracted us
hither. One thought, one feeling, one eraotion, that of vastness,
sublimity, profoundness, pervades the soul; for there, in awful
presence — " The giant trees in silent majesty.
Like pillars stand 'neath Heaven's mighty dome.
'Twould seem that, perched upon their topmost branch.
With outstretched finger, man might touch the stars."
Within an area of about fifty acres there are ninety-three trees
of large size, twenty of which exceed twenty -five feet in diaraeter
at the base, and will consequently average about seventy -five feet
in circuraf erence. These would look still more imposing in pro
portions but for the large growth of sugar pine {Pinus Lamher-
tiana), and the yeWow 'pine (PinUfi p>onclerosa). Oneof the lat
ter to the southwestward of the hotel exceeds ten feet in diame
ter. But let us first take a walk to the
BIG TREE STUMP.
This is the sturap of the original Big Tree discovered by Mr.
Dowd. We can see that it is perfectly smooth, sound, and level.
Its diaraeter across the solid wood, after the bark was removed
(and which was from fifteen to eighteen inches in thickness), is
twenty-five feet; although the tree was cut off six feet above the
ground. However incredible it raay appear, on July 4, 1854, the
writer formed one of a cotillion party of thirty -two persons, dancing
upon this stump ; in addition to which the musicians and lookers-
on numbered seventeen, making a total of forty -nine occupants of
its surface at one time ! The accompanying sketch was raade at
that time, and, of course, before the present pavilion was erected
over it. There is no more strikingly convincing proof, in any
grove, of the iraraense size of the big trees, than this sturap.

220

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

This tree was three hundred
and two feet in height; and, at
the ground, ninety -six feet in cir
cumference, before it was dis
turbed. Sorae sacrilegious van
dals, from the motive of making
its exposition "pay," removed
the bark to the height of thirty
feet ; and afterwards transported
it to England, where it was
formed into a roora; but was
afterwards consumed by fire,
with the celebrated Crystal Pal
ace, at Kensington, England.
This girdling of the tree very
naturally brought death to it;
but even then its majestic forra
must have perpetually taunted
the belittled and sordid spirits
that caused it. It is, however,
but an act of justice to its pres
ent proprietor, Mr. Jaraes L.
Sperry, to state that, although
he has been the owner of the
grove for over twenty years, that
act of vandalisra was perpe
trated before he purchased it, or
it would never have been per
raitted. The next act in this botanical
tragedy was the cutting down
of the tree, in order to accom
modate those who wished to carry
horae specimens of its wood, as
.souvenirs of their visit. But
how to do this was the puzzling

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 221
conundrum ! If one could fittingly iraagine so ludicrous a sight
as a few lilliputian men attempting to chop down this brobdino--
naggian giant, his contempt would reach its liecoming climax.
This, therefore, was given up as altogether too chimerical and im
practicable. Finally, the plan was adopted of baring it off ivith
pump-augers. This employed five men twenty-two days to

fill,
BOEING DOWN THE ORIGINAL BIG TEEE WITH PUMP-AUGEKS.
accomplish ; and after the stem was fairly severed from the stump,
the uprightness of its position, and breadth of its base, prevented
its overthrow ; so that two and a half of the twenty -two days
were spent in inserting wedges, and driving them into the butt of
the tree, by logs suspended on ropes, thereby to compel its downfall.
While these slow and apparently hopeless attempts were being
undertaken, and the workmen had retired for dinner, a gust of
wind took hold of its top, and hurled it over without the least seem
ing eff'ort ; its fall causing the earth to tremble as by an earthquake.
Thus this noble monarch of the forest was dethroned, after " brav
ing the battle and the breeze " for nearly two thousand years.
Verily, how little real veneration does the average man possess.

222

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

THE PAVILION.
This was erected over the stump as a protection against the
elements; for use on Sundays in public worship; and on week
day evenings for dancing, although I have heard ladies complain
" that there was no ' spring ' to that floor ! " Theatrical perform
ances and concei-ts have taken place upon it; and, in 1858, the
Big Tree Bulletin was printed and published here.
Near to the pavilion and stump still lies a portion of the
prostrate trunk of this raagnificent tree. Of course the butt-end

Photo by J. C. Scripture,

TRU^K or BIG TREE, AND PAVILION.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 223
of the trunk is of the same diameter as the stump, where the
auger marks make silent explanations of the method used in fell
ing it. WALK THROUGH THE GROVE.
Now, if you please, let us seek the daik recesses of this
priraeval forest, in spirit with uncovered head frora reverential
awe, feeling that we are entering the stately presence of trees
that have successfully withstood the cliraatic clianges, and storms,
of raore than thirty centuries. It is true that raany of these
grand old representatives of the drearay past have been assailed
by fire, and still proudly bear the raarks of that resistless enemy ;
although the new growth has, in many instances, sought to covei
up the scars, and renew the vigorous youth of each, as much as
possible. So Nature, like a gentle mother, neglects no opportu
nity to heal all wounds; and, where that is impossible, covers up
even deformity and decay with mosses or lichens. We can see
that nearly every tree has a name (many most worthily given)
and an individuality of its own ; that, like human faces, are sug
gestive of conflict with hidden forces, that have inscribed their
characteristics in every line; and were we to pause at every
one, and paint the peculiarities of each, I fear that it would
prove a somewhat tedious task. If you please, then, we will pass
to such as are most noteworthy.
Among these once stood a most beautiful tree, graceful in
form, and unexcelled in proportions; hence (as in human experi
ences) those very qualities at once becarae the most attractive to
the eyes of the unfeeling spoliator. This bore the queenly narae of
THE MOTHER OF THE FOREST.
In the summer of 1854, the bark was stripped frora its trunk,
by a Mr. George Gale, for purposes of exhibition in the East, to
the height of one hundred and sixteen feet. It now raeasures
iu circura ference, at the ba.se, without the bark, eighty-four feet ;
twenty feet from base, sixty-nine feet; seventy feet frora base,
forty-three feet six inches ; one hundred and sixteen feet frora base.

224 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
and up to the bark, thirty-nine feet six inches. The full circum
ference at base, including bark, was ninety feet. Its height w^as
three hundred and twenty-one feet. The average thickness of
bark was eleven inches, although in places it was about two feet.
This tree is estiraated to contain five hundred and thirty-seven
thousand feet of sound inch luraber. To the first branch it is
one hundred and thirty-seven feet. The small black marks upon
the tree indicate points where two and a half inch auger holes
were bored, and into these rounds were inserted, by which to ascend
and descend while removing the bark. At different distances
upward, especially at the top, numerous dates and names of visi
tors have been cut. It is contemplated to construct a circular
stairway around this tree. When the bark was being reraoved,
a young man fell from the scaffolding — or, rather, out of a descend
ing noose — at a distance of seventy -nine feet from the ground,
and escaped with a broken limb. The writer was within a few
yards of him when he fell, and was agreeably surprised to dis
cover that he had not broken his neck. The accorapanying
engraving, representing this once symmetrical tree, is frora a
daguerreotype taken in 1854, immediately after the bark was re
raoved, and correctly represents the foliage of this wonderful
genus, ere the vandal's ' ' Effacing fingers
Had swept the lines where beauty lingers. "
Now, alas! the noble '- Mother of the Forest," disraantled of her
once proud beauty, still stands boldly out, a reproving, yet magnif
icent ruin. Even the eleraents seemed to have sympathized with
her, in the unmerited disgrace, brought to her by the ax ; as the
.snows and storms of recent winters have kept hastening her dis
raeraberraent, the sooner to cover up the wrong. But a short
distance frora this lies the prostrate form of one that was probably
the tallest sequoia that ever grew —
THE FATHER OF THE FOREST.
This tree, when standing in its primitive majesty, is accred
ited with exceeding four hundred feet in height, with a circum-

MOTHER OF THE FOREST
(321 feet in height, 34 feet in circumference, without the bark).

226

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

ference at its base of one hundred and ten feet; and, although
limbless, without bark, and even much of its sap decayed and
gone, has still proportions that once could crown him king of the
grove. In falling, it struck against " Old Hercules," another old
time rival in size, by which the upper part of his trunk was shiv
ered into fragments, that were scattered in every direction. While
fire has eaten out the heart of " The Father of the Forest," and
consumed his huge limbs, as of many others, the following meas
urements, recently taken, will prove that he was among the giants
of those days, and, that "even in death stiU lives." From the

Photo by J. C Scripture. HORSEMAN EMERGING FRCU THE FATHER OF THE FOREST.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 227
roots, to where the center of the trunk can be reached on horse
back, it is ninety feet. The distance that one can ride er('ct
through it on horseback is eighty-two feet six inches. Height of
entrance, nine feet four inches ; of arch to floor, ten feet nine inches.
Across the roots it is twenty-eight feet ; to where one would have
an idea of standing to chop it down, twenty-three feet two inches ;
ten feet frora the roots its diaraeter is twenty feet eight inches ;
one hundred feet frora roots, twelve feet one inch; one hundred
and fifty feet frora roots, ten feet four inches, extrerae length, to
where any sign of top could be found, three hundred and sixty-
five feet. But no one can approximately realize the iraraense proportions
of this prostrate forest sire, without climbing to its top, and walk
ing down it for its entire length; by this, moreover, he will as
certain that it was nearly two hundred feet to the first branch.
At the end of the burnt cavity within, is a never-failing spring
of deliciously cool water. The handsome group of stately trees
that encompass the "Father of the Forest," make it an imposing
family circle ; and probably assisted in originating the name.
And this is only one of the numerous vegetable giants that
Time's scythe has laid low, for, near here, lies "Old Hercules,"
the largest standing tree in the grove until 1862, then being
three hundred and twenty-five feet in height, by ninety-five
feet in circumference, at the ground ; this was blown down that
year during a heavy storm; "The Miner's Cabin," three hundred
and nineteen feet long by twenty-one in diameter, thrown over
by a gale, in I860; and " The Fallen Monarch," which has prob
ably been down for centuries.
THE LIVING AXD REPRESENTATIVE TREES IN THE CALAVERAS GROVE
Consist of ten that are each thirty feet in diameter, and over
seventy that raeasure frora fifteen to thirty feet, at the ground.
Were we to linger at the foot of every one, and indulge in
the portrayal of all the characteristics, size, and peculiarities of
each, fascinating as they are when in their immediate presence,

228 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
they would detain us too long from other scenes, and some
that are especially inviting our attention ; such, for instance, as
THE SOUTH GROVE.
This stands about six miles southeasterly from the Calaveras
Grove, and is, without doubt, the most extensive of any within
the ordinary range of tourist travel ; as it contains one thousand
three hundred and eighty Sequoias, ranging from one foot to
thirty-four feet in diameter, and as the route thither is extremely
picturesque, as well as varied and interesting, let us pay it a visit.
Threading our way through a luxuriant growth of forest
trees, with here and there a long vista, which conducts the eye to
scenes beyond, and gives grateful leafy shadows, and occasional
patches of sunlight on our path, about a mile frora the hotel we
reach the top of the Divide separating the Calaveras Grove from
the north fork of the Stanislaus River. Here a remarkably fine
view of the Sierras is obtained, one of whose peaks, the " Darda
nelles," is twelve thousand five hundred feet above sea level. By
an easy trail, with all sorts of attractive turnings upon it, the
north fork of the Stanislaus River is crossed. This is the divid
ing line between Calaveras and Tuolumne Counties, giving the
South Grove to the latter county. This river, from the bridge,
is a gem of beauty. Now we wind up to the sumrait of the
Beaver Creek Ridge, and soon descend again to Beaver Creek
(where the trout-fishing is excellent); and frora this point wend
our way to the lower end of the grove. Here the altitude above
sea level is four thousand six hundred and thirty-five feet, and
the upper end, four thousand eight hundred and twenty feet.
The large nuraber of these immense trees, from thirty feet to
over one hundred feet in circuraference, at the ground, and in
alraost every position and condition, would becorae almost bewil
dering were I to present in detail each and every one; a few nota
ble examples therefore, will suffice, as representatives of the whole.
The first big tree that attracts our attention, and which is
seen frora the ridge north of the Stanislaus River, is the " Colura
bus," a raagnificent .specimen, wdth three main divisions in its

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 229
branches ; and standing alone. Passing this we soon enter the
lower end of the South Grove, and arrive at the " New York,"
one hundred and four feet in circumference, and over three hun
dred feet in height. Near to this is the " Correspondent," a tree
of stately proportions, named in honor of the "Knights of the
Quill." The "Ohio" raeasures one hundred and three feet, and
is three hundred and eleven feet in height. The " Massachusetts "
is ninety-eight feet, with an altitude of three hundred and .seven.
Near to a large black sturap, above this, stands a tree that is
seventy-six feet in circuraference, that has been struck by light
ning, one hundred and seventy feet frora its base ; where its top was
shivered into fragments, and hurled in all directions for over a
hundred feet from the tree ; the main stem being rent frora top to
bottora, the apex of this disraantled trunk being twelve feet in
diaraeter. The " Grand Hotel " is burned out so badly that noth
ing but a mere living shell is left. This will hold forty persons.
Then coraes the "Canal Boat;" which, as its narae iraplies, is a
prostrate tree; the upper side and heart of which have been burned
away, so that the remaining portion reserables a huge boat ; in the
bottom of which thousands of young big trees have starteil out in
life; and, if no accident befalls them, in a thousand or two years
hence, they may be respectable-sized trees, that can worthily take
the places of the present representatives of this noble genus, and,
like these, challenge the adrairing awe of the intellectual giants of
that day and age.
" Noah's Ark " was another prostrate shell that was hollow
for one hundred and fifty feet; through which, for sixty feet,
three horsemen could ride abreast; but the snows of recent win
ters have broken in its roof, and blocked all further passage down
it. Next comes the " Tree of Refuge," where, during one severe
winter, sixteen cattle took shelter; but subsequently perished frora
starvation. They found protection frora the storm, but their
bleaching bones told the sad tale of their suff'erings and death
from lack of food. Near to this lies " Old Goliah," the largest
decumbent tree in the grove ; whose circumference was over one

230 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
hundred feet, and, when erect, was of proportionate height to the
tallest. During the gale that prostrated " Hercules," in the Cala
veras Grove, this grand old tree had also to succurab. One of his
stalwart lirabs was eleven feet in diaraeter.
There is another notable speciraen, which somewhat forms
a sequel to the above, known as

Photo by J. C. Scripture.

SMII'H S CABIN,
On account of its having been the chosen residence of a trapper
and old mountaineer named A. J. Smith — Andrew Jackson
Smith — who made the charred hollow of this burnt-out tree his
lonely horae for three years. There is no telling what these old
denizens of the raountains can or will do when they have raade
up their minds to anything. The diameter of his cabin — which

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 231
was to him a bedroom, sitting room, kitchen, and, sometiraes,
during stormy weather, a stable for his horse — was twenty-one
feet by sixteen. Being one of the tallest, and consequently one
of the mo.st exposed, whenever the wind was upon one of its
" high jinks," it .seemed to take especial delight in playing, wan
tonly, with the top of this tree , so as to make it creak and tremble
frora stera to stern — not that it had any particular spite against
its tenant — yet, upon such occasions, Sraith would listen to its
orainous rausic with a soraewhat foreboding watchfulness, lest these
pranks should be carried too far, and thus endanger his personal
safety, as well as corafort. On one occasion a regular "south
easter " was on the rampage, hurling down trees, twisting oft'
branches, tossing about t)-ee-tops, and limbs, in all directions. As
the old trapper dare not venture out, he sat listening, with un
questionable interest, to ascertain whether the wind or " Smith's
Cabin " was becoming the better wrestler of the two. At this
juncture, an earth-trembling crash carae with nerve-testing force,
that raade his hair to stand on end, when he juraped to his feet,
using certain erapathic words (the synonyms of which can be
found in "holy writ," or elsewhere), thinking, as he afterwards
expressed it, "that it was all u-p with him." As this was the
downfall of " Old Goliah," he began to fear that old Boreas
was getting the best of the match, if he did not claim the gate-
money, and that " Smith's Cabin " would be the next giant thrown.
But, beinsr a brave man — and who could live such a life as his if
he were not? — and knowing well that he could not do better, con
cluded to look this danger unquailingly in the face, as he had
done many a one before it; stay where he was, and take the best,
or worst, that might befall him. This proved Mr. A. J. Smith
to be not only a hermit-trapper, but a philosopher as well. I am
glad to say that this hero still lives, and makes himself both use
ful and entertaining, by acting as guide between the Calaveras
and South Park Groves, and it would be difficult to find one more
careful or more obliging.
" Adam " and " Eve " we did not see, but were assured that

232 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
the former has a circuraference of one hundred and three feet ; and
that the latter was a fitting helpmate to Adam, at least in cor
relative magnitude, with breast-like protuberances seven feet in
diaraeter, at an altitude of one hundred and fifty feet frora the
ground. Before taking leave of the South Grove, it may be well to
raention, that it is three and a half railes in length, situated in
a beautifully formed, valley-like hollow, that not only contam.
the number of "big trees " already raentioned, but, like the Cala
veras Grove, has magnificent colonnades of other trees, such as
ihe sugar pine (Pinus Lambertiano,); the two yellow pines
(Pinus ponderosa and P Jeffreyi); thiee silver firs (Abies con-
color, A. grandis and A. nobilis); the red spruce (A. Douglasi);
the cedar (Libocedrus decurrens), with other genera; and an
almost endless variety of beautiful shrubs and fiowers. Indeed,
there is a richly supplied banquet, as endless in variety as it is
unique in loveliness and grandeur, upon which appreciative rainds
can feast the whole of the ride. Upon the return a glimpse can
be had, westwardly, of the Basaltic Cliff'; and which forms the
destination of one of the many enjoyable rides frora the hotel.
As we must soon bid a pleasant adieu to the Calaveras
Groves, before saying- our parting "good-by," it may be well to
state that the " Calaveras " and " South Groves " are both owned
by Mr. James L. Sperry, who is also the proprietor and landlord
of the Calaveras Grove Hotel ; and who has the good fortune of
uniting the attentive considerations of " mine host," with the in
tuitive qualities of a gentleman — not always met with when
traveling. And, for the information of the public, I most unre
servedly state that here will be found a good table, cleanly accom
modations, polite service, and rea.sonable charges; to which I
deem it my duty to add, that the air is pure and invigorating ;
the cliraate exhilarating and renewing ; and the trout-fishing in
adjacent strearas most excellent. Months should be spent here
instead of a few brief hours, or days.
Now, if you please, in the quiet of the evening, we will

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 233
return to Murphy's; and, after we have had a good dinner, and a
brief rest, will visit THE NEWLY-DISCOVERED CAVE.
This, believe rae, is one of the greatest natural curiosities of
this section. It is situated about a raile from town, and can be
reached either by carriage or afoot ; and, moreover, can be seen as
well by night as by day.
The moment it is entered, intense darkness envelops you
like a raantle ; so that even the candles, carried by visitors, seera
barely sufficient to raore than "raake darkness visible." Soon,
however, the eyes becorae adjusted to the circumstances, and
objects become raore or less recognized, although indistinctly at
first, then to reveal themselves raore clearly to our astonished
gaze. The first chamber reached is about two hundred feet from
side to side, its roof stretching far upward into semi-darkness
sorae seventy or eighty feet; and, like the side wall, is slightly
curvilinear in form, and at an angle of about 50° Its uneven
sides are partially covered with grotesquely formed stalactites, in
masses, closely resembling white fungus. Some hang pendent,
like icicles that have run into each other, and broadened as they
formed ; yet are suspended, in sorae instances, by a slender, tape
like stera, that one would expect to be broken alraost by a breath.
Frora among the seams of the rock overhead hang slender
bunches of dark chocolate-colored moss, that are from ten to
sixteen feet in length.
Proceeding downwards, the sides of the charaber resemble
the folds of massive curtains, the edges or binding of which are,
in appearance, very closely akin to the delicate white coral of the
South Seas. Here and there are stalagmites that appear like
inverted icicles, somewhat discolored, from a few inches to over
seven feet in height, and from three inches to two feet in diame
ter. In one spot stand " The Cherubim," united by a ligature
Hke the once celebrated Siamese Twins. These are about three
feet in width by four in height, white as alabaster, and glistening
with frost-like crystals.

234 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Still descending, one threads his way among narrow corridors
and charabers, the walls of which are draped with coral-like
ornaments of raany beautiful patterns, until he reaches " The
Angels' Wings." These are some eight feet in length by three in
breadth, while not exceeding half an inch in thickness, and
which are seemingly cemented to the nearly vertical wall of the
chamber. From top to bottom of these " wings," are numer
ous irregular bands, about one and a half inches broad, and of
various tints of pink; which show to great advantage when
a light is placed at the back of these translucent, wavy sheets.
When gently touched — and they should be gently touched, if at
all — they give forth sweetly musical notes that resound weirdly
through those silent halls of darkness. Nature, as though in
tending the protection of these delicate forms from vandal hands,
has surrounded them with stone icicles.
Other portions of the walls, especially near the roof-ceiling
(if so it may be called), have the appearance of an inverted forest
of young pines, that, having been dwarfed in their growth, were
afterwards turned into stone. Still others resemble moss, lichens,
or dead trees in miniature. Occasionally the entire .side wall has
a resemblance to sugar frosting, which is sufficiently delusive to
the eye for tempting children to wish for a piece of it to eatl
The lowest chamber, two hundred and twenty-six feet below
the entrance, is the most singular and beautiful of all. If imag
ination for a raoment could come to our assistance, and picture
the raost exquisitely delicate of coral, arranged in beautiful tufts,
and masses, the entire surface covered with silvery hoar frost,
and that surface extending up a, wall over thirty feet in height,
we could obtain some approximating idea of this gorgeous specta
cle. There is no language that can approximately portray this
fairy -like creation of sorae cheraical genii for the simple reason
that it is utterly indescribable.
Speciraens of human remains, and those of other animals,
have been exhumed from this cave, some of which were imbedded
in the alabaster forraation.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

L'35

STILL ANOTHER CAVE
Exists seven miles north of Murphy's, and which is probably in the
sarae belt of limestone. This is on " McKinney's Humbug Creek"
(what a name!), a tributary of the Calaveras River. As you
enter, the walls are dark, rough, and solid, rather than beautiful ;
but you are soon ushered into a chamber, the roof of which is
for some time invisible in the darkness, but where the whole for
mation has a resemblance to a vast cataract of waters, rushing
frora some inconceivable height in one broad sheet of foam.
Descending through a small opening, we enter a room beau
tifully ornamented with pendants from the roof, white as the
whitest feldspar, and of every possible form. Some, like gar
ments hung in a wardrobe, every fold and seam coraplete; others,
like curtains; with portions of colurans, half-way to the floor,
fluted and scalloped for unknown purposes; while innumerable
spear-shaped stalactites, of different sizes and lengths, hang from
all parts, giving a beauty and splendor to the whole appearance

VIEW OF THE BRIDAL CHAMBER.

236 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
surpassing description. Once, as the light was borne up along a
glorious fairy stairway, and back behind solid pillars of clear
deposits, and the reflected rays glanced through the myriads of
varying forras, the whole — pillars, curtains, pendants, and carved
work, white as snow, and translucent as crystal — glistened, and
shone, and sparkled with a glory that surpassed in splendor all
that we had seen in art, or read in fable. This is called
THE BRIDAL CHAMBER.
Immediately at the back of this, and yet connected with it
by different openings, is another room that has been, not inappro
priately, named " The Musical Hall." On one side of this is sus
pended a singular mass, that resembles a musical sounding-board,
from which hang numerous stalactites, arranged on a graduated
scale like the pipes of an organ ; and if these are gently touched
by a skilled musician's hand, will bring out the sweetest and rich
est of notes, frora deep base to high treble.
FROM murphy's TO CHINESE CAMP.
If tirae would permit, it would well repay us, before leaving
Murphy's, to visit the productive gold mines of Central Hill and
Oro Plata ; see the deep excavations raade between the fissure-like
formations of the liraestone here, for the purpose of extracting the
gravel therefrom, which contains the precious raetal; or, to watch
the various processes used in separating the gold frora the gravel
and pay dirt; but, as the stage leaves at 7 o'clock A. M., this will
be impossible, unless we decide to reraain behind for a day or two
for that purpose.
It raay be interesting for the stranger to know that after
leaving Murphy's, our course, for nearly thirty railes, is sub
stantially over the bed of an ancient river, that once ran parallel
with the raain chain of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. There is
no telling how rauch this streara could reveal to us if it had the
power, inasrauch as the fossil remains of mastodons, mamraoths,
and other aniraals have been found here. The late Dr. Snell, of
Sonora, had several hundred specimens of these. Then, gold in

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

237

fabulous quantities has been taken frora araong the bowlders and
gravel forming the under-stratum of this stream. In 1853 the
writer saw a nugget of solid gold extracted near Vallecito, four
miles from Murphy's, that was shaped like a beef's kidney, and
weighed twenty-six pounds.
But soon after leaving Vallecito, our course winds down
among the hills to Cayote Creek, upon which, about five hundred
yards below the road, are two
NATURAL BRIDGES,
Beneath which all the waters of the creek make their exit.
The upper side of the upper natural bridge to its arch is thirty-
two feet, and the breadth of the arch, twenty-five feet ; but as we
walk beneath it, the height increases to fifty feet, and the breadth

THE DPPER SIDE OF UPPER NATURAL BRIDGE.

2.38

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

to forty. The roof reminds one of the vaulted arches of some old
cathedral, supported by innumerable colurans. The sides in places
are suggestive of the flowing of a stream whose waters had sud
denly turned to ice ; and in others to urns and basins ; all forraed
by the action of water, by which they are filled to the brira.
The distance from the upper to the lower end of this bridge is
two hundred and seventy feet.
About half a mile below the lower side of the upper bridge,

THE UPPER .SIDE OF LOWER NATURAL BRIDGE.
there is another that is equally singular and grotesque. One
.spot beneath the roof and supporting walls presents the appear
ance of a beautifully worked rotunda, sixty feet in width, wdth a
height of fifteen. It would be impossible to fully describe the
raany wonderful forms that ornament the arches and walls of
these bridges; but as they are of the same general character as
the cave, imagination can readily fill out the picture.
Soon we reach Parrot's Ferry at the Stanislaus River, where
we find a kindly-hearted old hermit, after whom the ferry is

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 239
named, who takes us safely across. This stream, transversely
crossing the genei-al trend of tho ancient river, has cut the old bed
away, and formed a channel through it nearly one thousand feet in
depth ; but, when we have ascended the hill, we are again upon its
course. The auriferous treasures that were there found, stimulated the
effbrt and rewarded the energy of many thousands of miners, and
the thriving settlements of Gold Spring (a bounteous spring hav
ing here supplied water for washing out the gold), Columbia,
Springfield (where another spring gushes out), Shaw's Flat, Sonora,
Jamestown, and others sprang into life. It is no exaggeration to
say that, within a radius of eight miles, not less than ten thousand
miners found employment in unearthing the precious metal, from
1849 to 1854. And although it was supposed by raany that these
diggings were long since " all worked out," a population still
nurabering thousands obtains profitable returns from it, directly
or indirectly. But while we have been talking, we find ourselves
passing down the raain street of one of the prettiest mining towns
in California, euphoniously named SONORA.
I like Sonora, and like and believe in its wide-awake, ener
getic, and large-hearted people ; with whom I frankly confess to
feel most thoroughly at horae. And if tirae only perraitted, I
should desire to introduce thein, personally; knowing that you
would be gratified and honored with their acquaintance. As this,
however, is irapracticable, I cannot forego the opportunity of say
ing, that Sonora is not only the county seat of Tuolumne County,
but is still the center of a rich mining district. Only a few years
ago the " Piety Hill " ledge (since named the " Bonanza Mine "),
alone, yielded over half a ton o: gold in a single week; and this
is only one of many clairas still profitably worked. Wood's Creek,
upon which Sonora and other towns are located, has produced
raore gold, for its length, than alraost any other stream on the
Pacific Coast ; and it is questionable if any mule teara in existence

240 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
could haul away at a single load all the precious raetal that has
been taken frora these rich mines. Nor is gold the only product,
by any means ; inasmuch as the very finest of fruit, and that in
untold abundance, is grown here; with all kinds of vegetables,
and cereals. Its altitude, as given by the Wheeler U. S. Survey,
is, at the post-office, one thousand eight hundred and sixteen feet
above sea level.
As the climate is teraperate, healthy, and exceedingly invigorat
ing ; its people kindly-natured and enterprising ; the gold mines and
mining interests instructive to the student, and diverting to the
invalid, with abundant educational advantages provided for the
young, there can exist but little doubt that the entire section, in
and around Sonora, at a very early day, will become not only a
favorite place to visit, but whereon to found permanent horaes.
A few miles above Sonora, upon or near the great highway
which here crosses the main chain of the Sierra Nevada Moun
tains, are several very productive gold-bearing quartz ledges, that
give profitable employment to hundreds of men, and yield rich
returns of the precious metal to their fortunate owners.
Upon our departure frora this prosperous town, we follow the
course of Wood's Creek, past suburban residences and gardens,
machine shops and foundries, flouring mills and quartz mills,
orchards and vineyards ; down to the once famous raining carap of
Jaraestown (affectionately called by old residents "Jiratown" —
consult Bret Harte and Prentice Mulford on this) ; and as we now
drive through its principal street, and revert to its exciting past,
it requires quite an effbrt to overcome the sadness which the con
trast inspires, and which, uninvitedly, prompts the soliloquy, sic
transit gloria mundi. Still, there is more or less prosperity Im
gering here, owing to its proximity to the gold mines of Poverty
Hill, Quartz Mountain, and others. Frora Jamestown, through
Montezuma, to Chinese Camp, evidences are abundant that this
extensive district was once thronged to overflowing with miners,
and full to the brira with mining ' life. But as we are now in
Chinese Camp, and our route here intersects with the Milton and
Big Oak Flat, our course hence will be outlined in a future chapter.

CHAPTER XYII.
THE BIG TREES IN GENEEAL.
Their age unknown, into what depths of time
Might Fancy wander sportively, and deem
Some Monarch-Father of this grove set forth
His tiny shoot, when the primeval flood
Receded from the old and changed earth.
— Mrs. iS. C. Connor's Legend of Calif ornia.
The whole creation is a mystery.
— Sir Thomas Browne's Religio Mfilici.
Our best impressions of grand or beautiful sights are always enhanced by
their communication to sympathetic and appreciative minds.
— Abel Stevens' i(/e of Madame deStaiJl, Chap. XXII.
As four different routes to the Yo Semite Valley pass through,
or near, one or other of the Big Tree Groves ; and inasmuch as
all who are fond of botanical studies would like to consider the
peculiarities of this interesting genus, I have thought that it
would probably be most acceptable to devote this chapter exclu
sively to their discussion.
As stated in the preceding chapter, it is to Mr. A. T. Dowd,
a hunter, to whom the honor is due of discovering this remarkable
species, in 1852. Shortly after their discovery was made known,
the California Academy of Sciences of San Francisco obtained
and transmitted illustrative specimens of its cones and foliage
to Prof, Asa Gray, of Cambridge, Massachusetts; and to Dr.
John Torrey, of Colurabia College, New York; but these were
lost on the voyage. The next year Mr. William Lobb, an English
botanist, was sent to California, by Mr. James Veitch, of the Royal
Exotic Nurserj', Chelsea, England, as a collector of plants; who
(241)
16

242

IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

CONE AND F0LI.1GE OF THE BIG TREES — ORDINARY SIZE.

forwarded specimens of the seeds, cones, and foliage of the Big
Trees, to the firm he represented ; who placed them in the hands of
the eminent English botanist. Dr. Lindley, for exaraination and
classification. As Dr. Lindley was the first to describe thera (in
the Gardener's Chro-nicle of Deceraber 24, 1853), thinking it
a new genus, he named it Wellingtonia gigantea, after His
Grace the Duke of Wellington, then recently deceased. Apart
from the questionable taste of naming a purely American tree,
discovered by an Araerican, after an English nobleraan, however
exalted he raight deservedly be in the estimation of his country-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

243

men, subsequent closei- analysis proved
that it belonged to a genus already
classified, and named, by the famous
botanist, Endlicher, and known as the
Redwood, Sequoia, semiJcrvirens (the
Taxodium sempervirens of Lambert).
The generic similaiity between the Big-
Tree and the Redwood determines them

No. 1 represents the cone of the Sequoia gigan- No. 1 represents the male
iea, and No. 2 that of the Sequoia sempervirens. flower of the Sequoia gigan-
Natural size.* tea, and No. 2 that of the
Sequoia senjfipenurens. Nat
ural size. *
to belong to the same genus. Sequoia. Outside of England, there
fore, the Big Tree is now known as the Sequoia gigantea; that
and the Sequoia sempervirens being the only representatives of
the genus, the flowers and cones of which differ in nothing except
size, as clearly indicated in the above engravings.
Although botanical investigation claims that nearly all pines
require two years for flowering and the ripening of their fruit
for .seed-bearing purposes, and the Sequoias three, Mr. W M.
Whitley, for several seasons a resident as well as visitor of the
Mariposa Big Tree Grove, after closely watching the annual prog
ress and development of different clusters of cones, contends that
the Sequoia requires four, instead of three years, to bring it to
perfection.

*Vcitch's Manual of Coniferse.

244 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
WHY NAMED "SEQUOIA."
Sequoyah w^as the name of a Cherokee Indian chief, of mixed
blood, who lived in Will's Valley, at the northeastern corner of
Alabama; and who becarae famous to the world as the inventor
of an alphabet of eighty-six characters, each representing a sylla
ble, for the purpose of supplying his tribe with a written language.
This language is still in use among the Cherokees. He died in
1843, at the age of 73 years. His intellectual and inventive
prominence exalted hira as far above his people as the lofty red
woods of the Coast Range towered above other forest trees; and
this coincidence suggested to Endlicher the propriety of honorably
perpetuating the narae of this memorable chief, through one of the
raost valuable and iraposing productions of the vegetable kingdom.
Hence the name. Sequoia, now made generic by its application to
both species of the genus. THEIR DISTRIBUTION.
The Big Trees do not grow in one continuous belt, like the
pines and firs, for instance; but in groups, some of which, as the
South Grove and Tuolumne, are nearly forty miles apart ; and
generally in sheltered hollows, below the tops of ridges. These
groups are ten in number ; and, commencing northerly at the one
first discovered, run southerly, as follows: The Calaveras, South
Grove, Tuolumne, Merced, Mariposa, Fresno, Dinky, King's River.
New King's River, and Kaweah or Tule Group. The latter, being
scattered over low ridges and valleys, only separated hy deep
canons, for over sixty miles, and having a breadth of five, might
more correctly be called a belt; with a vertical range of nearly
two thousand five hundred feet. Their altitude, like the upper
timber-line of the Sierras, is raore or less cliraatic, and regulated
somewhat by latitude ; for, while sorae of the Calaveras group are
less than five thousand feet above sea level, the Grizzly Giant
in the Mariposa Grove, by no means the highest in location,
is nearly six thousand, and those of the Tule Grove over eight
thousand. This applies to the native habitat of all forest trees

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 245
of the Sierras, even when having a range, in altitude, of from
two to three thousand feet, as in the Tule Grove; for, while
the upper edge of the timber forest at Mt. Shasta is only eight
thousand feet, that iramediately east of Yo Semite is eleven thou
sand, while on the ridges near Fisherman's Peak (the proposed new
Mt. Whitney) it is twelve thousand two hundred feet above sea
level. Latitude, therefore, as well as altitude becomes an impor
tant factor in the distribution of species, in the forests of the
Sierras, and .should be allowed due consideration when determin
ing their habitat. PROBABLE AGE OF THE BIG TREES.
If, as generally conceded by botanists, the concentric rings
of trees interpret their annual growth, they at once suggest an
interesting inquiry as to the probable age of the Sequoias. The
distance of the rings between is sometimes very raarked; in
asmuch as. while some do not show more than si.x; or eio-ht to
the inch, others will give forty. Rich soil and favorable location
may account for the former, and the reverse for the latter. The
concentric rings of the sturap of the original Big Tree in the
Calaveras Grove, prove its annual growth to have been more than
double that of others in the sarae group; therefore, while intiraat
ing that it was cut down in its youth, perhaps a thousand years
before it had attained its full developraent, it is suggestive of the
possibility of raany eraiment scientists having been misled in their
estimate of the approxiraate age of these vegetable giants. I
have a piece of wood in ray Yo Seraite cabin, taken from, one of
the decumbent trees in the Mariposa Grove, that will average
thirty-four rings to the inch. I have counted such in nuraerous
speciraens, and ara satisfied that the average nuraber of concentric
rings in the Sequoias, would be about twenty -four to the inch ;
supposing, therefore, the diameter of the tree to be twenty-five
feet (the distance across the stump in the Calaveras Grove), meas
uring from the heart to the outer edge of the sap, the half
being twelve feet six inches, would raake its astonishing age three
thousand six hundred yeass ; and, if thirty feet in diaraeter (there

246 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
are many of these), it would be four thousand three hundred and
twenty years.
There is no apparent probability of this species ever becom
ing extinct, as its fecundity exceeds that of any other forest tree
in the Sierras.
Notwithstanding the striking resemblance between the two
species of this genus, in habit, form, wood, cones, and foliage,
the "Redwood" has never been found growing in the Sierra
Nevada Mountains, or the '' Big Tree " in the Coast Range.
RAPID GROWTH.
There can be no question of the very rapid growth of the
Sequoia gigantea, inasmuch as the species was unknown until
1852, and no seeds frora it were sent to England before 1853; yet
trees have been grown there that have attained an altitude and
circumference that are reraarkable : For instance, at the country
seat of the Earl of Devon, at Powderham Castle, near Exeter,
England, there is one specimen .that exceeds sixty feet in height
and ten feet in girth, at three feet from the ground; and that
growth has been attained in less than one-third of a century.
There are many other notable exaraples in Kent, Devon, Glouces
ter, Sussex, and other counties of England, where this species seems
thoroughly to acclimatize.
There is one striking difference between the Sequoia gigantea,
and the Sequoia sempervirens, in habit; the former grows only
from seeds, and the latter frora both seeds and suckers, and mainly
from the latter, in their native forests.
DURABILITY OF THE WOOD.
Notwdthstanding the exceeding- .softness, lightness, and fine
ness of texture of its tirabei-, its durability is unequaled. In the
Fresno Grove there lies an immense Sequoia, within three feet of
whose sides there sprung up a thrifty young giant, which, when
it reacheil the prostrate tree, as it could not thrust it out of its
way, grew over it ; sd that when last seen by the writer it had
grown across it six feet and ten inches; yet the heart-wood of

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 247
that prostrate tree was as sound as the day that it fell. This
species, therefore, will, at no distant day, be cultivated for its
valuable qualities as a timber tree; both from its durability,
fineness of texture, and general excellence for finishing purpuses.
There is a dense resinous gum that exudes from the bodv of
the tree in consideiable quantity, where fire has consumed the
wood, and much of this has run into the burned cavity; and
which, becoming ignited, has largely contributed to the destiuc-
tion of the tiee. This gum is of a crimson-tinted chocolate color ;
but its relative uses, or coraraerical value, have not yet been deter
rained. A similar substance drops from the cone in fragmentary
crystals, when it is ripe.
Although especial prominence has been given here to the Se
quoia gigantea or Big Tree, owing to its being one of the remark
able forest products of the Sierras, and within the circle or round
of Yo Semite travel, there can exist no possible intention of slight
ing its big twin brother of the Coast Range, the Sequoia semper
virens, or Redwood; inasmuch as, although separate in habitat,
there is but little inequality between the two species, either in
stature, texture, imposing presence, or other valuable qualities.
They are, therefore, twin representatives of the finest genus of
forest trees yet known to man. Yet, notwithstanding this, and
their being the new wonder of the world, found within a limited
area on this coast only, hurailiating confession has to be raade,
that, from business greed and lack of foresight in the government,
these glorious Sequoian forests are so rapidly disappearing that,
within a quarter, or at most a third of a century, they will have
been swept from off the earth.
FOSSILIZED BIG TREES.
The Sequoias are proven to have existed in the Tertiary
Period, as fossil remains of its cones aud foliage are in the posses
sion of Mr. Carruthers, Curator of Botany at the British Museura,
London; and fossil specimens have also been recently found in the
Calaveras Grove. The so-called " Petrified Forest," near Calis-
toga, Napa County, California, represents the fossiliferous con
dition of Sequoia sempervirens.

CHAPTER XVIII.
THE BERENDA ROUTE TO YO SEMITE.
Go forth under the open sky, and list
To Nature's teachings. — Bryant's I'/ianatopsis.
O what a glory doth this world put on
For him who, with a fervent heart, goes forth
Under the bright and glorious sky, and looks
On duties well performed, and days well spent !
— Longfellow's Autumn.
One contented with what he has done, stands but small chance of becoming
famous for what he will do. He has laid down to die. The grass is already grow
ing over him. — Bovee's Summaries of Thought.
Spinning out frora the Lathrop depot on our way to Berenda,
bj' the Southern Pacific Railroad, that being the route we have
now elected to take, our course lies up the valley of the San
Joaquin ; past farras, and stock, and towns ; with the snow-capped
Sierras on our left hand, the Coast Range on our right, and both
in the far-away distance until we reach Berenda. Here we leave
the Southern Pacific and take the Yo Seraite branch railroad
to Raymond, twenty-two miles distant.
Our course lies easterly ; and, for the first eight or ten miles,
over a treeless tract of country, of the peculiar formation desig
nated by people generally as "hog wallows;" consisting of
little flat hills, nearly round, about twenty feet in diameter, and
from one to three feet in elevation, only divided from each other
by narrow hollows. As there are hundreds of square miles of
these, all sorts of theories upon their origin have been formulated,
but none, as yet, satisfactorily so. Some think them the creations
of an iraraense nuniber of rodents; others, by shrubs around
which the wind has carried soil, and left it; others, by the action
(248J

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

249

of water; but, as all these know as much about their cause as
we do, there is soraething left for all to inquire into and think
about. Uninviting, however, as these may at fir.st sight appear,
for agricultural purposes, as the land is coraparatively cheap,
easily reclaimed, and the soil productive, they are rapidly being-
taken up by colonies of .settlers.

THE BERENDA ROUTE.
From San Francisco, via Lathrop, Merced, Berenda, Raymond, Grant's Sulphur
Springs, Wawona, and Mariposa Big Tree Orove, to Yo Semite.
stations marked (a) are stopping: places at night fnr stage passengers; those marked (&)
are hotels, or where meals can be had; those marked (c) are where liay and grain are obtain
able; those marked (d) are statre stations.

Stations.

Distances iu Miles.

td

2.3

By Railway.
From San Francisco to —
Lathrop, junction of the Southern Pacific with the
Central Pacific Railroad (b c) 
Merced, on Southern Paciflc Railroad (be) 
Berenda, on Southern Pacific Railroad (abed)...
Raymond, on Yo Semite Branch Railroad {j> c). . . .

94.03
58.0026.0022.00

By Carriage Road.
From Raymond to —
Gambetta Mines 
Crook's Eanch 
Grant's Sulphur Springs (bed.) 
Summit of Chow-chill:- Mountain 
Wawona (Clark's) (ahcd) 
Eleven Mile Station (bc, 
Chinquapin Flat (d) 
El Capitan Bridge, Yo Semite Valley 
Leidig's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley (abed)...
Cook's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley (abed) 
Barnard's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley (abed).

94.03
152.03178.03
200 03

13.00 4.50 5.506.504.50
10.76 2.20
10.31 2.560.30 .77

200.03

58.00
26.00 22.00

13.00 17.50
23.0029.50 34.00
44.7646.96 57.2759.83 60.1360.90

60.90 47.90
43.4037.9031.4026.90 16.14 13.94 3.63 1.07
0.77

28
171
280 350

1,900 1,800
2,8505,605 3,9255,567
5,908 3,925

3,934

• From Big Tree Station (Clarks) t'> aud through the .Mariposa Big Trees and back toSta-
tion, 17 miles. „ „ ,
RECAPITULATION.
Byrailwav  ^2SSn"V^''
By carriage road  ?"-^" ,.
To Big Tree Groves and return  i/.uu 
Total distance  ¦¦¦ ¦'  277.93 miles.

2,')0

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

Leaving the railroad at Raymond our road now winds around
oak-,studded ridges, or across flats and low knolls, which, in spring,
are garnished with an endless variety of flowers and flowering
shrubs. Of the former, from a single square yard, carefully meas
ured off, a botanical enthusiast inforraed the writer that he picked
over three thousand plants ! Journeying over the same ground in
the fall, nothing but a just and discrirainating iraagination could
realize how beautifully these hills were then garnished.
While changing horses at the station, there can soraetiraes be
seen a horny-backed, and point-arraored little reptile that attracts
attention by the singularity of his appearance. It is called
THE HORNED TOAD.
This quaint little meraber of the lizard faraily is generally
found on dry hills, or sandy plains; never in swaraps or marshes.
There are six diff'erent species, and all perfectly harmless. Owing
to this, and their slow movements making them easy of capture,
with their singular appearance, they have been carried oft' by
curiosity -hunters, as pets ; so that, although quite numerous some
years ago, they are now becoming scarce. They possess the won
derful power of adapting their color to that of the soil ; and change
from one hue to another in from twenty-four to forty-eight,

THE HORNED TOAD ( Phrynosoma).

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

251

hours.* They sometimes simulate death when handled, and will
puff" themselves into a nearly spherical .shape. Their aversion to
dogs is very great ; and, when one approaches, they raise themselves
to their full height, puff out their body, and hiss aloud. They
will corapletely bury theraselves out of sight in the sand in a few
raoments. Their food consists of flies and other insects, which
they capture by quickly thrusting out the tongue, coated with a
viscid saliva.
When a resident of the mines, in 1849-50, the writer had a
pair picketed out in front of his cabin for over three months ;
when, strange to say, at the end of that time, the male, which
was the smaller of the two, wound himself around his picket-pin
one morning, and strangled himself ; and, on the evening of the
same day the female followed his suicidal exaraple. Upon raak
ing a post-mortem examination of the latter, a cluster of fifteen
eggs was found, as represented in the
accompanying- engraving. Upon a
visit to any Chinese pharmacy, the
Horned Toad will be found dried and
ground into powder, or infused in a
decoction, for certain fevers, and dis
eases of the skin.
As we keep ascending, the scenery
becomes raore picturesque, and the
shrubs and trees raore interesting.
There are two of the forraer that are
very marked in their attractiveness one is the -'Leatherwood"
Fremontia Calijornica, which is from eight to twelve feet in
height, covered with bright yellow blossoms; and the other the
"Buckeye" ^£.-^culus Californica, having an erect panicle of
pinkish-white blossoras, from six to twelve inches in height, and
two or more in thickness. But were we to exaraine every flower,
shrub, and tree, found upon our way, our task would be endless ;
as the late Dr. Torrey assured rae that he saw over three hundred

EGGS OF THE HORNED TOAD, NAT
URAL SIZE.

•See Lieutenant Wheeler's U. S. Survey, vol. v, page 512.

252 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
different species, not to mention varieties, in a single day's ride,
on his way to Yo Semite.
Just as we are coming to another station, the " lurap-e-tump-
thuiiip " of raachinery in motion tells us that we are near
THE GAMBETTA GOLD MINES.
That which is nearest the road, and most easily seen, is the
"Shore Pride," owned by J. M. McDonald & Bro. This is
situated on " Grub Gulch " (the name of the post-office) ; so called
from the fact that, whenever men grew too poor to exist elsewhere,
they returned here, and " dug out a living." To the left of this,
and a little farther on, is the Haley or Gambetta Mine. This is
a rich vein of ore that steadily yields a given sum (I must not
tell you how much, as the amount was named confidentially ; but
it would take you and 1 raany thousand years to starve to death
upon it if we did not spend over $5,000 per month). If you wish
to see a neat and cozy horae, a well-arranged raill, and an excel
lent gold-bearing quartz ledge, do not fail to call here. These
works are about thirty-three miles from Berenda, and are one
thousand nine hundred feet above sea level.
But, threading our way among cultivated fields, over low
hills covered with oaks and pines, we find ourselves at
GRANTS SULPHUR SPRINGS.
Here you will find what New Englanders would call a
" chipper," brisk, go-ahead, wide-awake, and kindly -hearted raan ;
who, as "mine host," will make you feel at home; and, as pro
prietor, that he has spared neither money, time, nor energy to com
pel a forest-wilderness to "blossom as the rose." He raises the
largest crops, the biggest water-raelons, the nicest strawberries,
and the finest fruit to be found anywhere. More than this, he
will praise his chicken, and chicken salad, or roast beef, or home-
raised haras, and everything else upon his table ; if for no other
purpose than to help you to find an appetite to eat it. Almost
before you know it, therefore, you find that you have not only
eaten a hearty meal, but have thoroughly enjoyed it. If there

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 253
could be found a single stingy hair in Judge Grant's head, light
as the crop is becoming, I believe he would pull it out.
Then, there are the "Sulphur Springs," rolling out thirty-
three inches of strong sulphurous water every second ; and said to
be fully equal to the celebrated springs of Aikansas, and Saratoga.
These, with the raountain air, conveniences of access, and wildly
picturesque surroundings, will bring hither raany an invalid, who
can here take out a new lease of life, with Judge Grant to assist
in " drawing up the papers."
Leaving this attractive spot, our road winds along the
shoulders of Chow-chilla Mountain; and, while his bold brow of
granite is frowning above us, there is a broad and marvelously
beautiful landscape srailing below and beyond us, and one that it
would be difficult to excel anywhere. Be sure and induce your
coachraan to " hold up " for a few moments to obtain this vie\\-.
That satisfying and intensely gratifying piospect only pre
pares us for the contrast so soon to follow; for, having reached
the summit of Chow-chilla Mountain, and an altitude of five
thousand six hundred feet, ¦\\'e enter a glorious forest of pines,
which continues all the way down the mountain, some four and
a half miles, to WAWOXA.
Wawona (the Indian name for Big Tree), forraerly called
"Clark's," is the great central .stage station, wliere the Berenda,
Madera, and Mariposa routes all come together ; and which also
forms the starting-point for the Mariposa Big Tree Groves. The
very instant the bridge is crossed, on the way to the hotel, the
whole place seems bristling with business, and business energy.
Conveyances of all kinds, from a sulky to whole rows of passen
ger coaches, capable of carrying frora one to eighteen or twenty
persons each, at a load, come into sight. From some the horses
are just b^ing taken out, while others are being hitched up. Hay
and grain wagons; freight tearas coraing and going; horses with
or without harness ; stables for a hundred animals ; blacksmiths'
shops, carriage and paint shops, laundries and other buildings.

254 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
look at us from as many different stand-points. That cozy-look
ing structure on our left is Mr. Thos. Hill's studio; but that
which now most claims our attention, and invites our sympathies,
is the commodious and cheery, yet stately edifice in front known as
the Wawona Hotel.
The moment we reach its platform, and are assisted in alight
ing by one of the three brothers, Mr. A. H., Mr. E. P., or Mr. J.
S. ^^'ashburn, we feel at home. And while one or the other of
these gentlemen are seeking to divest our garments of the little
dust that has gathered on them, and the servants are performing a
similar service to our baggage, let me introduce those gentlemen
to 3^ou. Mr. A. H. Washburn is one of the principal owners of
the Wawona Hotel, with its extensive grounds and pastures; and
also of the Yo Seraite Stage and Turnpike Company's stage lines.
of which he is the efficient superintendent. If he gives you his
word for anything, you may rest assured that it will be accom
plished, very near to programme, or proven to be utterly impos
sible. Mr. Edward Washburn, and Mr. John Washburn with
his accomplished wife, will do their best to raake our stay here
enjoyable. To their kind and courteous care, therefore, we con
fidently commit ourselves.
After dinner the first place generally visited is
HILLS STUDIO.
Here wdll lie found quite a number of beautiful gems of art, the
merits of which are assured from the fact that Mr. Thos. Hill
took the first raedal for landscape painting at the Centennial Ex
position of 1876, and also the Teraple Medal of the Academy
of Fine Arts, of Philadelphia, for 1884, with nuraerous others.
The paintings, therefore, will speak for themselves. We shall,
moreover, find Mr. Hill a very genial gentleman, who has been
everywhere, almost — if not a little beyond — seen about as rauch
as raost men, and can tell what he has seen pleasantly, includ
ing his haps and mishaps. So that apart from the delight given
by an inspection of his beautiful creations (and he loves Art for
her own sake), our visit will meet with other rewards.

256 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
EXCURSION TO THE MARIPOSA BIG TREE GROVE.
This, deservedly, forras one of the attractive pilgrimages
around Wawona, and a sight of these botanical prodigies has
probably been one of the many inducements to the journey hither.
The trip is generally undertaken in the early afternoon ; but, if
time will allow, the entire day should be devoted to it. There is
so much to be seen upon the way ; its flora, and fauna (not much
of the latter), and sundry " what nots," that will otherwise be
guile us into the regretful wish that we had raore time to spend,
lingeringly, among them. And, after all, what is tirae for, but
to use well, and to spend pleasantly?
But before setting out for thein, it raay be well to state that
this grove of big trees Avas discovered about the end of July, or
the beginning of August, 1855, by a young man named Hogg;
who passed by, however, without examining thera. Relating the
fact to Mr. Galen Clark and others, Mr. Clark and Mr. Milton
Mann, in June, 1856, united forces, for the purpose of visiting
and exploring the newly discovered grove ; in order to definitely
ascertain its location, with the number and size of its trees.
These gentlemen, therefore, were the first to make known the ex
tent and value of this new discovery. Finding that its position
was near the southern edge of Mariposa County, it was thence
forward called the " Mariposa Grove of Big Trees."
How renewing memory brings back the treasuies of old-
time experiences; when, in company with Mr. Galen Clark, three
years later, we shouldered our rifles, carrying our blankets and
provisions at the backs of our saddles, and .started on my first
jaunt to this grove, over the old Indian trail. How well and how
pleasantly do I remember it, Mr. Clark; since which time you
and I have both grown older, and learned many of the instruct
ively suggestive lessons of life.
THE DRIVE TO THE GROVE
Is through a vast forest of stately pines, firs, and cedars, and
araong blossoming shrubs, and bright-faced flowers. On the way.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

257

Sketched fiom Nature by O. Tirrel

howevei-, there is one ira
mense sugar pine, which,
had it been found in the
grove of Big Trees, we might
have supposed that there was
the pride of rivalry in its
heart, as its circumference
is about thirty-three feet.
About five miles from Wa
wona We find the fii-.st clus
ter of Big Trees, which are
of gooilly pr(jportions ; al
though the driver, by wayof
an.swer to our inquiring ex
clamations, responds, " Oh !
they're nothin', we throws
those little chaps in, with
out countin'." These our
aneroid barometer placed at
an altitude of five thousand
six hundred and thirty feet.
But once fairly within the
impressive precincts of the
grove, A\'e are soon brought
face to face with one of the
oldest, most storm-tossed,
and grizzled, of this entire
family of Brobdingnags. It
is called THE GRIZZLY GIANT,
And it looks at you as defi
ant!}' as the oldest veteran
grizzl}' bear ever could.
By careful raeasurement we
found its diraensions to be.

17

THE GRIZZLY GIANT.

258 IN THE HEART OF TIIE SIERRAS.
at the ground, including a jutting spur, ninety -one feet; and
three feet six inches above the ground, seventy-four feet six inches.
Professor Whitney places its circumference, eleven ieet from the
ground, at sixty-four feet three inches ; with its two diameters at
base thirty, and thirty -one feet; and, eleven feet above base, twenty
feet. But a mere stateraent of dimensions and altitudes of these
trees can give no realizing sense of their idealistic presence and
magnitude. It is the grandeur of their exalted individuality and
awe-inspiring presence that thrills through the soul, and fills it
with profound and speechless surprise and adiniration ; and not
merely of one tree, but of whole vistas formed by their stately
trunks. Who, then, by pen or pencil, can picture these as they
are seen and felt? But we must not linger here, as there are just
as many big trees in this grove as there are days in the year; so
let us see a few of those which are most remarkable.
The coach generally halts at a large and deliciously cool
spring near the cabin, where those who have come to spend the
day will probably take lunch. Here, too, we shall have the
pleasure of meeting the guardian of the grove, Mr. S. M. Cun
ninghara, who knows every tree by heart; with its history, size,
and name, and who can tell us more about thera in ten rainutes
than raany men could in an hour, who are perhaps quite as
farailiar with them, and he will do it cheerfully. I can see his
bright and genial look, and can watch his wiry form and supple
movements, while I write. There is one thing especially notice
able about Mr. Cunningham, he never gets discouraged; and
always sees the bright side of things ; so that when a storm is
swaying the tops of the trees until they bend again, he can listen^
interestedly, to their rausic ; and can tell you laughable incidents
until your sides shake.
Two beautifully perfect Sequoias stand on either side the
cabin, one named the " Ohio," and the other " U. S. Grant." The
former is seventy-six feet in girth at the ground, and six feet
above the ground is fif ty -five feet ; and the latter sixty-five feet

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 259
six below, and forty-five feet above. Within thirty yards of these
is the " General Lafayette," thirty feet in diameter. Near this
is the " Haverford " (named after the " Friends " College, Phila
delphia), in which sixteen hoises have .stood at one time. It is
burned into three compartments; across two of the spuis of which
the distance is thirty-fi\-e feet; and, transversely, thirty-th ree feet.
" Washington " has a girth of ninety- one feet, atthe base; is round
and very symmetrical. Although burned out somewhat near the
ground, the new growth, as usual, is rapidly healing the wounds
that file has made. This is an especially excellent provision of
nature for preserving and perpetuating this grand species, when in
its prirae ; inasmuch as while restoring the ravages of the elements
by the new growth, a much-needed support is added to the abut
ments, which intercepts and prevents it premature downfall.
The " Mariposa " is eighty-six feet in circumference, at the
ground; and, seven feet above it, is sixty-six feet. This tree seems
to have been badly burned by two consuming fires, at difterent
periods ; after each of which the new giowth has, visibly, attempted
its restoration. Near to this are four beautifully symraetrical trees,
named, respectively, "Longfellow," "Whittier," "-Lyell," and
"Dana," a quarto of great natures, whoso companionship is sug
gestive of poetry and geology going hand in hand with each
other; and almost adjoining these is the "Harvard," a tall and
gracefully tapering tree of fine proportions, which seeras to derive
much strength of purpose from so congenial an association. The
" Telescope " is an erect, burnt-out chimney-like trunk about one
hundred and twenty feet in height, and which, although a mere
shell, has .still a growth of cone-bearing foliage upon it. The
"Workshop " is an immense living giant with a capacious hollow
at its base, which forras a roora twelve by sixteen, in which all
sorts of little souvenirs are raade from broken pieces of the big
tree. But, "Wawona," the "Tunnel Tree," through the heart of
which the road passes, is one of the most attractive in the grove.
At the base this tree is twenty-seven feet in diameter; while the

26»

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

enormous trunk through whioh the excavation is made is in solid
heart-wood, where the concentric rings, indicating its annual
gro-wth, can be readily seen and counted, and its approximate
age determined by actual enumeration, and thus satisfactorily
settle that interesting fact beyond the least peradventure. The

i-hoto. by Geo. Flake.

DRIVING THROUGH LIVING TREE, "WAWONA.'

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 261
arch, or " tunnel " as it is called, is ten feet in height, by a width
of nine feet six inches at the bottom, and six feet six inches at the
top. " Driving through a living tree," one would suppose to be
as great a feat as Daniel O'Connell's, who boasted that he could
" drive a ' coach and four ' through any Act of Parliaraent ever
made in the British House of Commons '"
Just below this is a very large prostrate tree, in possession of
the questionable narae of " Claveau's Saloon," through which, in
forraer years, two horsemen could ride abreast for eighty feet;
but, another "big tree" falling across it, has broken in its roof;
yet, above this, people can ride through, for thirty feet. The few
noticeable examples here presented can be but barely sufiicient to
illustrate the peculiarities and immense proportions of this extraor
dinary genus; and when our delighted vision can be feasted
upon such magnificent representatives as the "Queen of the
Forest," " Monadnock," "Keystone," "Virginia and Maryland,"
" Board of Commissioners," the " Diamond Group," and many
other equally perfect trees, varying in circumference frora sixty
to ninety feet, and in altitude from two hundred and fifty to two
hundred and seventy-five feet, we become satisfied that, like the
Queen of Sheba's opinion of the wisdom of Solomon, " The half
hath not been told," and never can be; and these become sug
gestive of the rich banquet in store for those who can here wor
ship nature for her own glorious sake.
And, be it reraembered, that the " big trees," large as they are
in theraselves, are but a small proportion of this magnificent
forest gro-wth, intermixed and interwoven, as they are, with the
drooping- boughs of the white blossoming dogwood, Cornus
Nutallii ; or the rich purple flowers of the ceanothus, Ceanothus
thyrsiflorus ; or the feathery bunches of white California lilac,
Cennoihus integerrimus, and other species of this beautiful
plant ; and to which mu.st be added, the ever fragrant raasses of
blossom which adorn the azaleas. Azalea occidentalis, or the
spice bush, Calycanthus Occidentalis, with its long, bright green
leaves, and singular, wine-colored flowers ; and frora among all of

262 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
these will be seen peeping the large white bells of the "Lady
Washington Lily," Lilium, Washingtonianum; or the Little
Red Lily, Lilium p>avvum, with the gorgeously bright red and
orange-colored Tiger Lilies, Lilium pardalinum, and L. Hum-
boldti'i; and other flowers ad infinitum.
But, reluctantly as the word " good-bye" may soraetimes fall
upon the eai-, or strike home to the heart, it must occasionally be
spoken ; yet, before doing this, let us take just one outlook from
WAWOXA POINT.
Here is a jutting ridge that stands boldly out from the grove,
but a short distance from the road ; and, as this aftbrds us a com
prehensive bird's-eye view of the surrounding country, with its
distant mountain ranges, and long lines of trees ; and more espe
cially of the grassy meadows and numerous buildings which
constitute the Big Tree Station, " Wawona," two thousand five
hundred feet below us, we shall feel that we are well repaid
for our trouble.
It may be well bere to state that the Mariposa Big Tree
Grove, with the Yo Seraite Valley, was donated to the State of
California in 1864, as recorded in Chapter VIII of this volurae.
THE FRESNO GROVE OF BIG TREES.
As this is only about ten miles distant from the Mariposa
Grove; and will, without doubt, at an early da}', forra one of the
many delightful excursions frora Wawona, a brief outline con
cerning it raay not be unacceptable. On a warm sumraer even
ing in July, 1856, Mr. Galen Clark was riding along the ridge
which divides the waters of Big Creek frora the Fresno, and
caught sight of a large group of trees similar to those found in
the Mariposa Grove. Two days afterward, Mr. L. A. Holmes, of
the Mariposa Gazette, and Judge Fitzhugh, while on a hunting
excursion, saw the tracks of Mr. Clark's mule as they passed the
sarae group ; and as both these parties were very thirsty at the
time, and near thc top of the ridge at sundown, without water for
themselves and animals, they were anxious to find this luxury,

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 263
and a good camping-place, before dark. Consequently, they did
not deem it best then to tarry to explore, intending to pay it
a visit at some early time of leisure in the future. This inter
esthig task, however, seemed to be reserved for Mr. Clark  to
whom the world is indebted for this new discovery — and the
writer, on the second and third days of July, 1859.
With our fire-arms across our shoulders, and our blankets
and a couple of days' provisions at the back of our saddles, we
proceeded for a short distance through the thick, heavy grass of
the meadow, and comraenced the gradual ascent of a well- tirabered
side-hill, on the edge of the valley, and up and over numerous
low ridges, all of which were more or less covered with wild flow
ers. About six o'clock the same evening, we reached the first
trees of that which has since been known as the "Fresno Grove"
in safety ; but as the sun was fast sinking, we deeraed it prudent
to look out for a good camping-ground before darkness precluded
the opportunity, and postpone exploration for the present. For
tunately we soon found one, and at the only patch of grass to be
seen in several miles, as afterwards discovered.
As we were making our way through the forest towards it,
thinking and feeling that probably we were the first whites who
had e\er broken the profound solitudes of that grove, we heard a
splashing sound, coming from the direction in which we were head
ing. This, with the moving and rustling of bushes, and the snap
ping of dead sticks, reminded us that we were possibly invading
the secluded home of the grizzly bear, and might, almost before
we knew it, have good sport or great danger, to add variety to our
experiences. Hastily dismounting and unsaddling, we at once
picketed our animals on the grass-plat ; still wet with the spurt-
ings of bear's feet, that had hurriedly made tracks across it; then,
kindling a fire, to indicate by its smoke the direction of our carap,
we started quietly out ON A BEAR HUNT.
Cautiously peering over a low ridge, not over a hundred
yards from our horses, we saw two large bears moving slowly

264

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

BEAR HUNT IN THE FRESNO GROVE.

away. Their attention had evidently been attracted by our
moveraents, as they had paused, and were looking towards us in
a listening and soraewhat defiant attitude. Mr. Clark was just
raising his rifle for a shot, when I whispered a request for per
mission to be allowed " the first shot at that iraraense fellow yon
der? " who was not over thirty -five yards off. " Certainly, with
pleasure," was ray corapanion's prompt and courteous rejoinder.
In an instant a charge of buck-shot was sent, just behind the
shoulder; when he made a quivering leap towards us, as though
he would pay us back for our temerity ; but a ball, frora the un
erring rifle of Mr. Clark, determined him to make a hasty retreat
after the other one, already scampering off in the distance.

THE YO SE.WITE VALLEY. 265
We immediately started in pursuit ; ami although their course
could be easily followed by the tracks made, as well as by the blood
frora the wounded bear, they reached the shelter of a dense raass
of chaparral, before we could overtake them, even by a shot; as
they traveled much faster than we could, and were there securely
hidden from sight. Deeming it impolitic and unwise to follow
thera, by creeping under and araong the bu.shes forming their
place of refuge, if not their lair, we walked around upon the look
out, until the deepening darkness, as if in sympathy with bruin,
completed their hiding, and admonished our return to camp with
out the expected prize; and where, when supper was ended, we
soon found forgetfulness in sleep. After a very early breakfast
we again renewed our search for the hoped-for game ; but, although
we ventured into the chaparral, and looked under this and that
hea\'ier clump of bushes, in the hopes of finding it ; we never saw
either of them afterwards. Finding nothing larger than grouse,
we bagged a few of those, and then coramenced our explorations.
We spent the whole day wandering through the dense forest
which forms this splendid grove; looking at this one, admiring
that, and measuring others, without attempting to ascertain the
exact number of Sequoias found here; yet concluded that there
were about five hundred of well developed Big Trees, on about as
many acres of gently undulating land. The two largest we could
find measured eighty-one feet each in circuraference, were well
formed, and straightly tapering from the ground to their tops.
Many others that were equally sound, and as syraraetrically pro
portioned, were frora fifty-one feet to sevent}'-five feet in girth.
The sugar pines were enormously large for that species; as one
that was near our carap raeasured twenty-nine feet si.x inches in
circuraference, and two hundred and thirty-seven feet in length.
None of the trees in this grove were badly deforraed by fire.
But now, if you please, let us imagine that we have taken
the delightful, forest-arched ride, from the Marisposa Big Tree
Grove, down to Wawona; as, before we leave its enjoyable pre
cincts, there are many points of interest still to visit, and among
them

Aw; Zyt.Ca.N. Y.

Drawn by T. Hill,

THE CHIL-NOO-AL-NA PALLS.
NEAR WAWONA.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 267
CHIL-NOO-AL-NA.
Hail me, dashing Chil-noo-al-na!
O'er the clifiFs and crags I'm leaping,
Where the wild bear, and the lion,
From their lairs are stealthy creeping.
Here I love to shout and clamber.
O'er the rooky heights and steepness,
As with misty mantle covering
Every nook aud cave-like deepness.
Here I dwell with nymphs and dryads;
Here, so high perched on the mountains;
While my everlasting waters
Flutter down in ceaseless fountains.
Dashing into apace so grandly.
Naiad streams are dancing lightly,
W"ith a million scintillations,
Spangling all the air so brightly.
In the Sylvan Grotto hiding,
See my bride; her bright hair tosses,
Shim'ring down in gliat'ning meshes,
'Mong the lovely ferns and mosses.
Lo! the Frost King brings his shackles.
Ties my limbs with strength and power,
While his elves are deftly weaving
Shroud, and wreath, and snowy flower.
Though he tries with deathly stillness.
But to hush my voice forever,
I leap forth from his embraces.
And his manacles I sever.
For I'm Monarch of these forests.
From my great throne high and lonely.
Shouting out to lesser streamlets,
I reign o'er these waters only.
I am mighty in my power.
I am splendid iu my glory.
What care I for Neptune's oceans.
Famed in song, and ancient story.
— Mrs. Fannie Bruce Cook.

268 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
THE CHIL-NOO-AL-NA FALLS.
The beautiful pen drawing on the adjoining page, kindly
made by Mr. Thos. Hill for this work, will tell how richly a visit
there will be repaid, by either walking or riding the two miles
of distance from the hotel.
Another compensating and satisfying sally frora Wawona
is to SIGNAL PEAK,
The narae given to the highest point of the Chow-chilla Mountains,
lying westerly from the hotel. This suggestive nomenclature was
given to it owing to the Indians having made choice of that point
as a signal station, from which to telegraph, by fire and smoke,
to all their Indian allies, both far and near, any message they
might wish to send. Its comraanding outlook will at once com
mend their choice for the selection. The accorapanying engraving,
also frora a sketch by Mr. Hill, significantly indicates the wondei -
ful panoraraa rolled out before us frora that glorious scenic stana-
point, when looking east. On any clear day every deep gorge,
and element-chiseled furrow, every lofty peak, and storm-defying
crag, of the great chain of the Sierras, for a radius of nearly one
hundred miles, is distinctly visible to the naked eye. It is one vast
sea of mountains, whose storm-crested waves tell of their billowy
upheaval by elemental forces, and suggest that they were after
wards suddenly cooled, and solidified into rock, when in raost vio
lent ebullition; and that while the irapressive individuality of
each culminating crest is measurably dwarfed by distance, the
general effect of the whole is inexplicably enhanced by the won
derful combination.
Looking west how suddenly the scene changes from storra to
calra ; for, while the near raountain ridges, which form the fore
ground to the picture, remind us of the former, the receding
foot-hills, and broad valleys peace ully stretching to the horizon,
tell only of the latter; so that the one by contrast, exalts the
impressiveness of the otner, and provides, as a whole, a satisfying
"feast of good things, of wines on the lees, well refined," that will

270 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
be pleasantly remembered as long as memory reigns queen upon
her throne. LESSER POINTS OF INTEREST AROUND WAWONA.
Such as the excellent trout fishing in the south fork of the
Merced, that runs directly past the hotel ; tho walk to the Fish
Pond, and boat ride upon it; visit to Hill's Point, for the distant
view of Chil-noo-al-na Falls; the Soda Spring, and grove of young
Sequoias near ; and other places of interest, which not only enable
visitors to spend their time pleasantly here, but become sufficiently
attractive to induce raany to tarry months at Wawona, and some
for the whole sumraer. The cheery liveliness of its constantly
changing throng of visitors; its salubrious and exhilarating
climate ; the balmy fragrance of its surrounding pine forests, and
charraing variety of scenery, would seem to unite in making this
a most delightful resort for invalids.
But as the glorious scenes of the Yo Semite are in imraediate
prospect, and as anticipation has long been on tiptoe to enter
their sublime precincts, let us cross the South Fork Bridge at
Wawona, and start at once upon our deeply interesting journey.
Following the eastern bank of that stream for about a mile,
we commence the gradual ascent of a long hill, the outlook from
which is everywhere full of inspiriting pleasure. On both sides
of the road the gossamer, floss-like blossoms of the Mountain Ma
hogany, Cercocarpus ledifolius; the Manzanita, Arctostaphylos
glauca (What a name for such a beautiful shrub !) with its pinkish-
white, wax-like, and globe-shaped blossoms, hanging in bunches,
challenge our admiration. But, on we roll, the landscape broaden
ing and the gulches, like our interest, deepening as we ascend,
until we come to "Lookout Point." Here grandeur culminates,
and an admonition spontaneously finds its way to the lips, " Oh !
driver, please to stop here just one minute for this marvelous view. "
This is five thousand five hundred and sixty feet above sea level.
Before long the darkening forest shadows we are entering
remind us that we shall soon be at Eleven Mile Station, and at
" West Woods." West Woods is the name given to Mr. John W.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 271
Woods, an open-faced and kindly-hearted hunter, who raakes this
his lonely abiding-place both winter and suramer. A short dis
tance beyond this we attain the highest point on the road, six
thousand one hundred and sixty feet above the sea. About half
a mile further on we arrive at Chinquapin Flat, where the diverg
ing road for Glacier Point, fourteen miles distant, leaves the main
one. From here every step towards Yo Seraite is constantly alter
nating and changing in scenic grandeur ; now we emerge from
forest shades to open glades; then look into the deep canon of the
Merced River ; then upon the leaping tributaries of Cascade Creek ;
until, at last, we corae to that unspeakably glorious view which
suddenly breaks upon us at
INSPIRATION POINT.
Here language fails; for neither the pencil's creative power,
the painter's eliminating art, photography, pen, or human tongue,
can adequately portray the .scene of unutterable sublimity that
is now out-rolled before us. Longfellow's beautiful thought
seems uppermost: "Earth has built the great watch-towers of
the mountains, and they lift their heads far into the sky, and
gaze ever upward and around to see if the Judge of the World
comes not " — even while we are entrancedly waiting.
Deep down in the mountain-walled gorge before us sleeps the
great Valley. Its beautiful glades, its peacefully glinting ri\'er, its
dark green pines, its heavily tirabered slopes; all heramed-in,
bounded, by cliff'-encompassing domes, and spires ; with crags and
pea.ks, from three to five thousand feet in height, and over
which there gracefully leap the raost charming of water-falls, from
nine hundred to three thousand feet in height above the mead
ows. While "the laurel-crowned king of the vale," grand old
El Capitan, with a vertical mountain cleavage of three thousand
three hundred feet, stands out raost nobly defiant and asserts the im
pressive individuality of his wonderful presence ; while over all of
these an atmospheric veil of ethereal purple haze is enchantingly
thrown, with the whole bathed in sunshine, to heighten the general
loveliness of the scene. No change of time or circurastance can
ever efface from meraory this glorious first glirapse of Yo Seraite.

CHAPTER XIX.
THE MADEEA ROUTE TO YO SEMITE.
Go abroad
Upon the paths of Nature, and, when all
Its voices whisper, and its silent things
Are breattiing the deep beauty of the world.
Kneel at its simple altar, and the God
"W'ho hath the living waters shall be there. — N. P. Willis.
Pleasures lie thickest where no pleasures seem;
There's not a leaf that falls upon the ground
But holds some joy, of silence or of sound.
Some sprite begotten of a summer's dream.
— Bl.4nchard's Hidden Joys.
This route, like the Berenda, lies up the great valley of the
San Joa(]^uin, s^nen miles beyond the fornier starting-point, to
Madera, a town probably of about five hundred inhabitants. We
are now upon historic ground, as here the faraous Fresno Indian
Reservation was founded; and, about nine railes above where
Madera now stands, was the place of general rendezvous for all
the Indians gathered in, after the Mariposa Indian war of 1851-52 ;
for the Indian Coramission, and the officers and men forming the
Mariposa Battalion. Then, it was one vast stretch of country
without a 1 luilding upon it, or any other sign of civilization — if
we except those made necessary by the needs of reservation life —
now it is dotted in all directions with farm-houses and gardens,
orchards and vineyards, with cultivated fields, and succulent
pastures, on every hand ; with the Southern Pacific Railroad run
ning through and among them. Let their enemies say what they
may, these railroads are rapidly assisting development, and pro
gress, wheresoever their iron bands may extend.
(272)

THE MADERA ROUTE,

From San Francisco, via Lathrop, Merced, Madera, Fresno Flats, and Mariposa
Big Tree Station ( Clark's f, to Barnard's Hotel, Yoscniitc Valley.
Stations marked (a) are stopping places at night for stage passengers; those marked (/¦)
are hotels, or where meals can be had; those marked {e) are where hay and grain are obtainable;
those marked {d) are stage stations.

STATIONS.

Distances in Miles

By Railway.
Frotn San Francisco to —
Lathrop, junction of the Southern Pacific with the Central Pa
cific Railroad {be)  
Merced, on Southern Pacific Railroad {be) 
Madera, on Southern Pacific Railroad {a b c d) 

By Carriage Road.
From Madera to —
Adobe Station, Stitts' {be) 
M lidgett's Ranch {be) 
Green's Ranch {bed) 
Kron's, Coarse Gold Gulch {bed) 
Fresno Flats {be) 
Buflford's {be) 
Board Ranch {bed) 
Summit of Chowchilla Mountain 
Forks of road to Mariposa Big Tree Groves.
Big Tree Station, Clark's {abe dy 
Eleven Mile Station {bed) 
El Capitan Bridge, Yosemite Valley 
Leidig's Hotel, Yosemite Valley {abed) ..
Cook's Hotel, Yosemite VaUey {abed).
Barnard's Hotel, Yosemite Valley {abed)

94-03 58.0033-O0

¦^

^

~

3

w =
? ^
y
¦^
a
2.
S0
V
CT-
0
0
185.03
94-03
91.00
28
1 152.03
33.00
171
185.03
280
95-35
9.25
86-10
325
it..5u
76.85
597
25.00
70-35
1,100
iS.so
56.8s
2,085
45.00' 50.35
2,192
50.00I 45.35
3,260
5S.001 37.36
4.639
61.601 33.76
5,109
'-4.43 30.43
5,062
Ce.40 26.96
3.125
79.16 16.20
5.567
91-73 3-63
3.843
97. 29 1.07
97.59 0.77
9f-3«
3.851
* From Big Tree Station (Clark's) to and through the Mariposa Big Trees and back to sta
tion, seventeen miles.
RECAPITULATION.
By railway  185.03 miles.
By carriage road  -  95-35 ^^
'ro Big Tree Groves and return  17.00
Total distance  29S- 32 miles.
18
274 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
THE TOWN OF MADERA.
After the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad through
this section, the California Luraber Corapany wa_s organized, for
the purpose of tapping the extraordinary growth of timber that
was found to exist in the Fresno Grove, and for bringing its lum
ber down to the market created by the railroad. Saw-mills were
accordingly erected in that vicinity; but, as its great distance
frora raarket precluded the possibility of its successful delivery
there by ordinary conveyance, a ^ fiuiiie was constructed, fifty-
four miles in length, at an original cost of $375,000, for the pur
pose of floating it down. This will readily be seen at numerous
points on the route. As soon as this was completed, the mills
were put working to their fullest capacity; and luraber, to the
extent of one hundred thousand feet per day, was started upon
its raeandering voyage to the depot. The business connected
with this enterprise becarae the inception of the now prosperous
town of "Madera" — Madera being Spanish for lumber. And
for the purpose of meeting the wants of the people settling- along
the line of the railroad frora here to Me-w; Mexico, the sugar and
yellow pine, fir, and big tree wood, were converted into doors,
blinds, sashes, etc. Here it may be said, in parenthesis, that the
largest of the Big Trees, being found altogether too large for ad
vantageous handling in lumber manufacturing, were allowed to
remain undisturbed? Two hundred raen are eraployed in this
industry. They saw off" the trees at the ground with the ordinary
cross-cut saw, instead of chopping thera down, as forraerly.
There is a luralier yard of forty acres, through which there are
roads and railroads in all directions, and to lumber piles of all sizes
and kinds. Near the terminus of the flume it is divided into two
branches, each of which is provided with a separate reservoir, into
which the lumber is floated from the mountains ; although most
of it is removed directly from the flume, placed upon trucks, and
then run upon tramways to the location desired. The waste
water, after being relieved of its cargo, is distributed in diflerent
directions, and sold for irrigation purposes.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 275
This enterprise naturally formed the stimulating nucleus for
the commencement of others; and farms and farra buildings
sprung into existence; and with them the store and hotel, the
blacksmith shop, and other creations of industrial development.
So that now there are nuraerous stores, post-office. Wells, Fargo &
Co's. expre-ss office, a coraraodious hotel, saloons; and long lines of
business places of all kinds needed in a thriving community, in
cluding a printing office and newspaper.
For raany years Madera was the principal station on the
Southern Pacific Railroad, for the departure of tourists for the Yo
Seraite Valley and Mariposa Big Tree Groves ; but, since the con
struction of the Yo Semite branch railroad, from Berenda to Ray
mond, that business has naturally been transferred thither. Owing.
however, to its convenience of location, and the exc(dlence of the
raountain roads leading therefrom to the great sights beyond,
Madera will continue to be the principal place of departure for all
persons traveling by private teams. A short distance above this
was once a very favorite place for rodeos* and for rancheros.
LASSOIXG AXD BRA.NDINC; THEIR CATTLE.
Before gold was discovered in California its raain wealth
seeraed to consist in its cattle and horses, the former being slaugh
tered almost exclusively for their hides and tallow, which then
forraed about the only articles of export. As there were no fences
in those days, all aniraals were allowed to roam wheresoever they
chose; generallj' between defined bounds, as between rivers, or
mountain ranges ; and every spring their different owners, with
their vaqueros (all well mounted), would sally out on a given day,
scour thu whole district assigned to them, and drive every animal
found within it to the spot designated for the roden. Others
would do the same for districts assigned to them, until every
animal ranging at large was collected together.
This accomplished, all would assendde around a large camp-
fire for social pleasures, and spend the remainder of the day in
* Rodeo is a Spanish word, generally applied to the place and annual gathering
in of c-at.le and horses, for the purpose of counting and bra.iding them.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 277
frolicking or feasting. Sometimes these indulgences would con
tinue for a numbar of days, before commencing upon the business
which had brought them together. Finally, however, they would
settle down to their exciting work. Every ranchero had and
knew the particular brand which belonged to hira, and which was
well understood and conceded by every one present. But, wher
ever there was a single doubt about that, the aniraal in question
was immediately lassoed, as shown in the accorapanying illustra
tion, thrown upon the ground, and examined. This satisfactorily
determined, every calf or colt that followed its mother, was un
hesitatingly conceded to belong to the same owner, and was ac
cordingly branded with the red-hot iron which forraed the brand.
Soraetiraes this was a character (.somewhat after the Chinese
pattern) and at others a letter — generally the initial of the family
narae. After the counting and branding, each drove would be
driven back to its usual range, and there left to look out for
itself until the next spring. Occasionally there would be two
rodeos a year, but not often.
As our road lies over gently undulating hills near the Fresno
River, we have frequent and refreshing glances of its willows
and cottonwoods ; and the bright green verdure of its meadow
land, confessedly soraewhat limited ; with the V flume on its sin
uous course at our side, bearing its freight of lumber down to the
railroad. Soon the white post oaks and numerous shrubs, begin to dot
the landscape. Then we enter the canon of Coarse Gold Gulch —
one of the historic places of early days — and flnd the music of its
gurgling waters, and the shadows of its alder and black oak trees,
most pleasantly diverting until we reach the little village of the
same name, and its hotel, where the inner man can be regaled and
the outer man refreshed. Here we have attained an altitude of
two thousand and eighty-five feet above the level of the sea.
After climbing a dividing ridge of the Fresno River, nearly a
thousand feet above the gulch, we again descend to a pretty little
hill-encompassed town, known everywhere as Fresno Flats. This

278 IN THE HEART OF TUE SIERRAS.
is supported, raainly, by lumbering, farming, mining, and stock-
raising. Being the business center of a nuraber of sraall settle
ments around it, the principal street is fairly alive with teams,
saddle-horses, bustling men and men of leisure ; with the custom
ary complement of Indians and dogs, found at nearly every foot
hill outpost of civilization throughout the State. More recently
a nuraber of gold-bearing quartz ledges have been found in the
adjacent hills, which, when developed, will make an acceptable
addition to the prosperity of tfie town. But,
" Onward, and upward, let our course be."
Bef ore advancing far upon our journey, we enter the glorious
forests of the Sierra, which deservedly attract the wondering
admiration of every traveler ; these, diversified by broad openings
and imnressive glirapses of landscape, continue every foot of the
way to Wawona. The highest portion of the Chow-chilla Range
crossed upon this road is near the saw-mill at Fish Springs, which
is five thousand one hundred and seven feet above sea level. This
entire section is remarkably attractive to camping parties, desir
ous of exchanging the hot air of the plains for the deliciously cool
atmosphere of the mountains, owing to the dense growth of its
forests, the little patches of grassy meadows, and the leaping
waters of Big Creek being literally alive with trout. Some fami
lies spend the whole summer here, at the Big Tree Groves, and
on the mountains bordering the Yo Semite. The only detraction
to this, as of other mountain fastnesses, is from the iraraense
droves of sheep passing over, eating up every green thing (includ
ing beautiful lilies, and other fiowering plants), and leaving a
desert behind them. Nor is this all, for as neither deer nor any
other game will feed after sheep, they naturally and necessarily
seek other pastures. Then to this must be added the infamous
practice of sheep-herders setting the forests on fire — the unprinci
pled retui-n for being allowed to pasture their flocks upon the
public domain, free of every kind of charge. This route inter
secting those of Berenda and Mariposa, as before stated, at Wa
wona, they are thence neces.sarily continued conjointly.

CHAPTER XX.
THE COULTERVILLE ROUTES.
Nature never did betray
The heart that loved her. — Wordsworth's Tintei-n .-Ibbey.
Converse with men makes sharp the glittering \iit.
But God to man doth speak in solitude. — John Stuart Blackie.
He prayeth best, who loveth best
All things, both great and small. — Coleridge's Ancient Mariner.
As on the Berenda Route our course lies up the valley of the
San Joaquin, to either Modesto or Merced. We can make either
of these towns the place of departure for Coulterville and Yo
Semite. If we have chosen the former, the first place reached, we
shall find it a goodly -sized town, full of energetic people; and the
usual accompaniments of a very prosperous business comraunity
of about seventeen hundred inhabitants, including good hotel ac
coraraodatlons (an iraportant consideration just now, as we have
to spend the night here). Modesto is the county seat of Stanis
laus County,But, if we have preferred to take the Coulterville Route to
Yo Seraite via Merced, we keep our seat in the railroad car for
about an hour and a half longer, and then alight at the El Capitan
Hotel, Merced, where we shall forget ourselves in sleep. This
is the county town of Merced County, and a thriving city of one
thousand nine hundred inhabitants; with all the usual accessories
of business, amusement, and education ; and is the center of a re
markably fertile farming district.
Leaving the Southern Pacific at either Modesto or Merced, by
stage, we pass over a farming region and rolling country, devoted
(279)

THE COULTERVILLE ROUTE,

From San Francisco, via Lathrop, Merced, or Modesto, Coiilterviu^, and Merced
Grove of Big Trees, to Yo Semite VaUey.
Stations marked {a) are stopping places at night for stage passengers; those marked (3) are
hotels, or where meals can be had; those marked (f) are where hay and grain are obtainable;
those marked {.d) are stage stations-

STATIONS.

Distances i.v Miles.

U

P 3
n

By Railway.
From San Francisco to —
Lathrop, junction of the Southern Pacific with the Central Pa
cific Railroad {be) 
Merced, on Southern Pacific Railroad {abe d) 
By Carriage Road.
From Merced to—
Halfway House, watering place {be) 
Snellings {be) 
Merced Falls (^c) 
Junction Station {be) 
Lebright's Ranch {bed) 
Herbeck's {be) 
Coulterville {be) 
Dudley's Hotel and Ranch {abed) 
Bower Cave {be) 
Wenger's Ranch {be) 
Watering trough . 
Hazel Green (B t" (f) 
Forks of road to Crane Flat 
Merced Grove Big Trees 
Big Meadows {bed) 
Junction of Coulterville Road with Merced River Trail 
Forks of Coulterville and Big Oak Flat Roads 
Leidig's Hotel {abed) 
Cook's Hotel {abed) 
Barnard's Hotel {abed) 

By Railway.
From San Francisco to —
Lathrop, junction of Southern Pacific with Central Pacific R. R
Modesto, on Southern Pacific Railroad 

From. Modesto to-
Waterford 
Horr's Ranch 
La Grange 
Lebright's 
Coulterville 

By Carriage Road.

94'03 58.00

6.35
12.60 4-58 5.815 53
5-74 5-577-s8
4.69 3 23
4.00 5-51
0-36 2.8o 8-45
4 59
2.612.59
0.300.77

94-03
10.00

9403
152.03

6.35
18-95
23 S3
29-3434-87
40.6146.18 53-7658-45
61.686568 71.19
7'-5574-35 82.80 87.39
90 oc
92-59 92.89 93-66

.12 .20.28-38-50

58.00

93.66 87-3174-7170.1364.32 58.79
53-0547-48 39.9035-2131.9827-22.4722.11 19.3110.86 6.27 3.66 1.07
0.77

RECAPITULATION.
By railway to Merced  
By carriage road from Merced to Yo Semite 

28
171

215 252360578995
1.6211,6652.9592,3603,2184,1205.5505.502 5.327
4.237 3.352

 152-03 miles.
 93-66 "
Total distance via Merced  245.69 miles.

By railway to Modesto 
By carriage road, Modesto via Coulterville to Yo Semite
Total distance via Modesto 

114.03 miles-
- 9946 "
.212.44 miles.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY 281
raainly to the raising of wheat; with the great chain of the
Sierras in full view before us. On the Modesto branch we cross
the Tuolumne River near La Grange, and on the Merced branch
cross the Merced River at Snelling. A few miles above the
former village the fossil reraains of an immense mastodon were
found, imbedded in the auriferous gravel of the mine, some ten
feet below the surface, beneath an oak tree three feet in diameter.
The accorapanying illustration, sketched frora nature, will indicate
its character. This tooth raeasured six inches and three-quarters across it,
by eight and a half inches from front to back ; and the longest

FOSSILIZED MASTODON S TOOTH, AND PORTION OF JAW.
fang, or root, was eight and a quarter inches in depth, from the
upper to the lower surface of the jaw, reaching nearly through
the jaw-bone. The tooth stood above the upper surface of the
jaw about two inches. The knee-joint of this huge animal was
about four times the size of that of the largest ox.
Soon after crossing both the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers,
the beautiful natural parks of the foot-hills of the Sierra, lying
between the two rivers, are entered, consisting mostly of " digger"
or " bull " pines, Pinus Sabiniana; white post oaks, Quercus
Douglasii; and black oaks, Quercus Kelloggii; with numerous
shrubs and flowers interspersed between, until our arrival at
Coulterville, a mining town of Mariposa County, one thousand
eight hundred feet above the sea. But a few miles before arriv-

282 IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
ing there, near to the Dutch Boys' Ranch, as it is called, there is
frequently to be seen a very singular bird, that invites special
attention, and which is known as

THE CALIFORNIA ROAD-BUNNEK, Gcococcyx Cali/omiamcs.
This strange and rare bird, peculiar to California and some
portions of Mexico, is sometimes called the Ground Cuckoo, to
which family it belongs. At first sight it might be Supposed to
be a new kind of pheasant, so striking is the resemblance in color
and pattern of plumage to that genus ; but upon closer exaraina
tion it is soon discovered to be unlike it in every particular.
Owing to its exceeding shyness and uncoraraon scarcity, there is
probably less know n about this singular species than almost any
other. The late Mr. A. J. Grayson, a loving student of ornithol
ogy, succeeded in catching, unobserved, the expression of eye and
attitude of this bird just when preparing to spring, and kindly
sent me the sketch and accompanying notes: —
So far as 1 am acquainted, the Eoad-runner, or, as it is called in
Spanish, Courier del Camino, or Pisano, has not been described by any
ornithologist. It is a distinct and isolated species from all other birds,
roaming about over barren plains and hills in search of lizards, snakes,
and other reptiles, upon which it preys. It is almost always seen upon
the ground, seldom in trees, unless pursued very closely, when it has been

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 283
seen to spring from the ground to the branches, a height of from ten to
fifteen feet, at a single bound, but prefers running along a road or path;
from which habit it derives its name. When discovered, it instantly
runs off, with remarkable flcetne.ss, to the nearest thicket or hill, where it
generally escapes its pursuers, either by hiding, or by sailing from one hill
to another. It is very quick in its motions — active and vigilant; indeed
its remarkable swiftness enables it to outstrip a horse.
The m(i.«t remarkable feature about it is its feet, these being more like
those of cUnging birds, such as the woodpecker or parrot, having two toes
before, and two belund, armed with sharp claws. Its legs being strong
and muscular, make it well adapted for running.
Its plumage is rather coarse and rough, of a dusky hue, marked with
wiite and brownish specks on the neck and upper parts, while under
neath, it is of a dirty -white. The tail is long, the bill strong and slightly
curved, eye of a greyish brown, the pupil encircled by a light-colored ring.
A bare space extends from the eye to the back of the neck, of a pale blu
ish color tinged with red. The specimen I have now before me measures
twenty-three inches from the tip of his bill to the end of his tail. The
tail is eleven and a quarter inches, the bill two and a half inches. I have
frequently met with this bird in my travels over the country, and have
never seen one ia company with any other bird, either of its own or any
other kind. It is excessively shy and solitary, inhabiting the wildest and
most unfrequented places. It has no song to cheer its solitude. At times
it utters a harsh note, not unlike the sudden twirl of a watchman's rattle
One of these birds in my possession is becoming quite tame, and
readily feeds upon any kind of raw meat; but prefers lizards and small
birds, which it swallows whole — feathers and all. If given to him alive,
he will play wdth them awhile before swallowing them, just as a cat wdll
do with a mouse. I have seen him devour three sparrows, one lizard, and
a portion of the breast of a coot, for his breakfast, without experiencing
any inconvenience. It is exceedingly ravenous; and, like all birds of
that class, has a disagreeable odor; and should, I think, be placed in the
order of rapacious birds.
Just before entering Coulterville, some three railes northwest
erly, the croppings of an immense gold-bearmg quartz ledge stand
boldly out at Peiion Blanco (a mountain of white rock) ; and the
vein is crossed within rifle-shot of the hotels. This lode is
the most remarkable one, in size and lineal extent, of any one
yet found in California, as it can be distinctly traced from the
middle of Amador County to the center of Mariposa County, a

284

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

distance of seventy-five miles, by its stupendous croppings. It is
estimated that the various quartz mines on this lode, within the
limit stated, have yielded §40,000,000 in gold. As this " Mother
Vein," as it is called, crosses Maxwell's Creek just below the town
of Coulterville, a visit can be paid it while the coach is stopping
for the assortment of the mail.
TARANTULAS, Aranca Tarentula. ¦
Here, too, perhaps some enterprising boy or man may bring
a tarantula's nest to .show us ; and as we examine the peculiarly
unique manner of its con
struction, we naturally
wish to know raore con
cerning its architect and
builder. The tarantula,
then (so called frora Ta
ranto, in Italy, from
whence the first speci
mens were obtained by
entomologists), evidently
belongs to the spider fam
ily, although the nest is
out of the ordinary style
of such insects. I have
seen specimens of this
genus that measured five
inches from the tip of one
of its hairy legs to that
of the other ; with a body
two and a half inches in
length, by one inch in diameter. Their appearance is both for
midable and forbidding; and theyare quite venomous in their
bite. It has eight legs, four on each side. Between the two fore
legs there is a pair of sharp, serrated nippers, which they use
when seizing their prey; and in their head, between these, are
two horny, sharp, and hollow fangs, curved inwardly, through
which a poisonous fluid is projected when striking an enemy.

A TARANTULA S NEST.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 285
They live in nests forraed of clay; which is provided with an
ingeniously constructed trap-door, made out of about thirty la\-ers
of silk and dirt (the former spun from their own body), the inner
side of which is also coveied with silk, and made water and air
tight. The springy strength of the silken hinges of this trap
door is sufficient to instantly close it, the moment the nest is
entered. As an additional security to those within there ai-e
holes raade in the edges of the iloor, into which the tarantula can
insert its fangs, and bolt hiraself in.
The tarantula, like every living tenant of this world, has its
enemy, in a large, hornet-like fly called the pepsis, whose dark
blue bodj', and bright reddish-orange colored wings, enable the
curious to closely study his movements; as, with unrelenting
vindictiveness, he encompasses the helplessness of his victim.
When the pepsis catches sight of his prey, he swoops clown upon
it with a viz-z-z-zip, viz-z-z-zip, which he continues until the
tarantula is utterly paralyzed — not killed. This accomplished, he
leaves the defenseless body where it fell, and flies away for assist
ance. Sometimes it is an hour or more (I once watched for
nearly two hours without results) before the victor returns, when
he brings with him from three to five coadjutors, who push or pull
the body forward until they reach their nest (always built in
the ground), into which the tarantula is unceremoniously dropped,
and then stowed away on one side. It has generally been sup
posed that this is siraply a provision made for food purposes; but
this is incoriect, inasrauch as when the female pepsis has carefully
placed the paralyzed tarantula into the corner desired, she then
punctures the body, deposits her eggs in the punctures ; and the
warmth of the paralyzed body continues until the hatching proc
ess is completed; then the tarantula dies, and his decomposing
body supplies the pabulum needed for the larvae and pupae of the
pepsis, until they can fly abroad in the earth to seek their living
elsewhere. One singular feature of this enemy of the tarantula,
the pepsis, is, that the raale dies immediately after sexual contact.
Following up Maxwell's Creek beyond Coulter-^dlle for about

286 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
two miles, we commence the ascent of a long hill, whence a
panorama of the town, the foot-hills, and the distant plains
opens up before us. But, once upon its surarait, the tirst grand
view of the snow-clad peaks of the High Sierra, the sources of
the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers, beyond Yo Seraite, is obtained,
and an altitude gained of three thousand five hundred feet.
Now the elevated table-like flats, extending for railes,
are either under settleraent and cultivation, or are occupied by a
bounteous forest growth of yellow pine, Pinus ponderosa, and
the first seen upon this route. Busy saw-mills, and the wood
man's ax anil frow here, once gave both lumber and "shakes"
(split boards) for the mines and farms, that necessarily depended
upon the mountains for their supplies of these ; now, however, as
the demand has nearly ceased, the supply has correspondingly
dwindled away.
Winding our way among timber-clothed hills we soon arrive at
DCDLEY'S RANCH,
Where we can spend the night. And the moment we have felt
the grip of Mr. Dudley's manly hand, and looked into his open
countenance ; or received the undemonstrative welcorae of his pleas
ant wife, there proraptly coraes a confidence that everything they
may or can clo for our corafort, will be a spontaneous and cordial
act. I have entered raany more pretentious way-side inns than
this, but have never been better cared for, or kindlier treated
than here. If I can say more, why please to consider it said, and
I will thank you. Four miles above this we come to
BOWER CAVE.
This is a natural cleft in a great vera of limestone, of a
singular grotto-like formation, one hundred and nine feet in depth
and length, and ninety feet in width, which is entered by a pas
sage between rocks, not more than three and a half feet wide, at
the northern end of an opening in the roof, some seventy feet
long by thirteen feet wide. The sides of this great cavity are

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY

287

draped with wild grape-vines, while through it peep the tops of
tall maple trees that grow deep down in the cave. When the
boughs of these are drawn aside, you look into the abyss below,
where sleeps a small pool of water that is forty feet deep, raade
.shadowy and mysterious by overhanging rocks. There is a boat
upon the pool for the
convenience of visitors.
Side caverns opening, in
to the main cave, unite
to make this unique .spot
a very desirable one to
visit. This is owned by
Mr. Louis Pechart, a
Frenchman, who is al
ready the happy father
of .some thirteen livins- O
children.
BOWER CAVE.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE COULTERVILLE AND Y(J SEMITE TURNPIKE.
Here the public road ends; but not so the enterprise of
the Coulterville people. Desirous of sharing the patronage of the
Yo Semite travel, " The Coulterville and Yosemite Turnpike
Company" was formed in 18.i9, and the road extended, by this
company, to Crane Flat, some eighteen miles distant, at a cost of
about Sl.5,000.
But, as Yo Semite lay still far beyond, and both passengers
and freight had to be transported thither on the backs of horses
and raules, and over rough and precipitous trails ; and although it
was deemed impracticable, if not impossible, to construct a wagon
road down to thc floor of the vallej'-, from the high cliffs that mar
gined it in; and this work could only be accoraplished by the
aid of the best engineering skill, after the expenditure of
large suras of money, the Coulterville and Yosemite Turnpike
Company, stiraulated to this action by Dr. John T. McLean, its
President and largest stockholder, under an agreeraent between

288 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
said company and the Yo Semite Commissioners that the Coulter
ville Company should have the exclusive rights to construct, and
to maintain for ten years, a toll road into the valley, on the north
side of the Merced River, undertook the construction of such a
road and completed it, in accordance with the agreeraent above
naraed, on June 18, 1874, at an expense, over and above the ex
pense of that part of the road frora Bower Cave to Crane Flat, of
over §50,000. Subsequent, however, to the agreement above
mentioned being made, and to the coraraenceraent of the survey
and construction of the Coulterville Road to Yo Semite under it,
the Big Oak Flat and Yo Semite Turnpike Company applied to
the Yo Semite Commissioners for the privilege of extending their
road (already completed to Gentrys, on the northwestern boundary
of the Yo Semite grant), down to the floor of the valley. The
Coraraissioners declined to grant this privilege to build a second
rOad into Yo Seraite, on the north side of the Merced River, be
cause of the agreeraent they had previously made with the Coul
terville Road Company, under which that company had expended
raoney and acquired vested rights.
The Big Oak Flat and Yo Semite Turnpike Corapany, ap
plied to the State Legislature, at its next session, for the privilege
of extending its road from Gentry's to the level of the Yo Semite
Valley, when the Act was passed and approved by the Governor,
giving- this company the privilege asked, under which it built
its road to the level of the vallev.
While this Act of the Legislature raay be regarded as an act
of siraple justice to the Oak Flat Road Corapany, which had
previously completed its road to the very edge of the Yo Semite
grant, there is no doubt that it worked great pecuniary damage
and loss to the Coulterville and Yo Seraite Turnpike Company,
which, under its agreement with the Yo Seraite Commissioners
for an exclusive privilege for a road into Yo Seraite on the north
side of the Merced River, had expended many thousands of dollars
m the construction of its road, and had it nearly completed, when
this Act of the Legislature, allowing a competing road to be

rhi'f-' l'\ (,,¦-: Fiske.

rSu'to-typo hy Uritton &¦ Rey. S. F.

The Vernal Fhll-Pi-wy-hck.
(Slc pagts 441-2.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 289
built, was passed. But the fact reraains, and it is worthy of
special and honorable mention, that to Dr. John T. McLean, the
President of the Coulterville and Yo Semite Turnpike Corapany,
lielongs the honor of raaking the Yo Semite Valley accessible to
wheeled vehicles, by the construction of the first wagon road into
it. This road, built and raaintained by him at great pecuniary
loss, by reason of unexpected competition from the Big Oak Flat
Road, is an enduring monument to his energy and enterprise.
SCENERY ON THE ROAD.
After leaving Bower Cave, as we ascend the hill beyond, the
scenery grows wilder and raore beautiful. Long lines of heavily
tirabered ridges, intersecting each other like -waves of the sea,
stretch to the horizon on every hand, with here and there a tree
less peak that seeras like a desert island in an ocean of pines.
There is one very noticeable feature in the scenery of the Sierras,
it never grows raonotonous or coraraonplace, as new views open
up at eveiy turn in the road. For ten miles from Bower Cavo
the rise is very gradual on the southern slopes of Pilot Peak Ridge,
crossing nuraerous strearalets, until the pass is reached, and an
altitude gained of five thousand three hundred and fifty feet.
PILOT PEAK
Is the boldly defiant cone-shaped landmark of this section, rising
to the height of seven hundred feet above the pass, with an
elevation of six thousand two hundred feet above sea level. From
its sumrait, to which a branch road is built, all the deep canons
of the Middle Sierras, flanked by high ridges that are covered
with dense forests, are in full view, while eastward are seen all
the great peaks on the main crest of the Sierras, whence rise
the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers ; and to the westward extends
the broad San Joaquin Valley and the Coast Range; the whole
forming a panorama of remarkable grandeur that fully compen
sates for the short climb from the main road.
From the Pilot Peak Pass the road is built on the backbone
of the ridge, afibrding outlooks on either side, until we enter the
19

290 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
dark, tree-formed shadows of Hazel Green, where, owing to its
grassy raeadows, raagnificent timber, and convenience of location,
Mr. James Halstead has established a way-side inn.
The forests of the Sierra have their finest developraent in
an elevation ranging from three thousand to seven thousand feet
above the sea , and for three miles east and west of Hazel Green,
some of the noblest speciraens of yellow or pitch pines, Pinus
ponderosa; sugar pine, Pinus Lambertiana; red cedar, Liboced
rus decurrens; and Douglas spruce, Abies Douglasii, are found.
Sugar Pine Pass, two railes southeasterly of Hazel Green, is six
thousand eight hundred feet in altitude, and is the highest point
on the Coulterville and Yo Semite road. Gently descending for
about three-quarters of a mile beyond this we find oui\selves in
THE MERCED GROVE OF BIG TREES.
This grove, five thousand four hundred feet above the sea, is
worthy of special mention, as containing some of the best pre
served of any of the big tree species. It is directly on the line of
the road, the survey having been made with special reference to
these attractive studies for the Yo Semite tourist. It contains
over fifty Sequoias, the half of which number measure from forty-
five to ninety feet in circumference. The largest are remarkably
well preserved and beautifully symmetrical, only two or three in
the whole grove having been injured by fire. Frora
BUEXA VISTA GAP,
Four railes easterly of the Merced Grove, at an altitude of five
thousand one hundred feet, the first glimpse of the Yo Semite
Valley is obtained on this road. El Capitan, Three Graces, The
Sentinel, and Sentinel Dome, with Glacier Point, loom grandly
up in the distance; and, going down the eastern side of the ridge,
others of the great Yo Semite cliffs and domes unveil their awful
majesty, the Half Dome being the most prominent. Jogging
along we soon come to THE BIG MEADOWS.
As the narae implies, these are extensive grassy flats, that

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 291
afford excellent pasturage for stock, and where much of the grain-
hay used in Yo Seraite is produced. How pleasantly does the
writer recall the kindly treatment he has received here from its
proprietors, Messrs. Meason and Myers, when out upon some of his
rambles, and found this a cordial hospice and place of refuge.
This is four thousand three hundred and twenty feet above the
sea, and only eleven miles from the hotels at Yo Semite. Thought
and feeling become enlisted as we draw near the glorious realiza
tion of our day-dreams, the present end of our wonderful pilgrim
age; and this measurably piepares us for the irapressive view
before us when we reach the edge of the cliff", and obtain our first
look down into the marvelous depths of the Merced Canon, and
of the river, after making its hurrying exit frora the valley.
DESCENT TO THE MERCED CANOX.
This is made by a safe and excellent road, portions of the
way having been blasted frora the solid granite walls of the canon.
The passage of " Devil's Gulch," and other points of the bluft'tell
how forraidable were the obstructions to be overcome when build
ing this road. There is a cranny little spot at the foot of the hill,
known as " The Blacksmith's Shop," which consists of an irregu
lar chamber formed entirely of hugh bowlders that have toppled
ofl" and down from the surrounding cliffs, in the " long, long ago."
Here the forge and anvil rung out their merry peals, while picks
and drills and crow-bars needed on the road, weie being sharpened.
No matter how high the thermometer stood upon the outside, this
shady, rock-formed retreat, fanned by the rippling frolics of the
leaping water of the river, was always refreshingly cool. A slight
delay for inspecting this nature-built blacksmith's shop will be
both gratifying and compensating. Once down on the ri^'er wq
beg-in to realize the height and massiveness of the bluffs that stand,
frowningly, on either side of us; and while we are thinking about
it, almost before we realize our nearness to it, we pass a leaping
rivulet, and are then at the Cascade Falls; but as this forms one
of the many delightful excursions of the Valley, further description
of this scene now will be unnecessary.

CHAPTER XXI.
THE MARIPOSA ROUTE TO YO SEMITE.
We live in deeds, not years; in thoughts, not breaths;
In feelings, not in figures on a dial.
We should count time by heart throbs. He most lives
Who thinks most, feels the noblest, acts the best.
— Bailey's Festus.
A land of promise flo-wing with the milk
And honey of deUcious memories. — Tennyson's The Lover's Tale.
Tis pleasant through the loop-holes of retreat
To peep at such a world. —Cowper's Task, Bk. IV.
As recorded in earlier chapters, this was the first and original
route ever traveled to the Yo Semite Valley ; and its fearless peo
ple the first to enter it, in pursuit of the marauding and murder
ous Indians in 1851; and afterwards to make the existence of
such a maivelous spot known abroad. The great public, therefore,
throughout the civilized world, owe an agreeable, enduring, and
never-to-be-canceled debt of gratitude to the people of Mari
posa, for the glorious heritage they were thus instrumental in
conferring upon them. Unlike any other ordinary indebtedness,
however, its remembrance will impart none but pleasurable
emotions. In winding our way among its rich and beautiful hills,
then, the raeraory of the eaily struggles of its people with the foe,
and the boon of the remarkable discovery which followed, will
bespeak for our journey over this historic ground far raore than
mere ordinary interest.
The accompanying table of distances and altitudes, with the
map of routes, will indicate that the place of departure for Yo
Semite on the Mariposa Route, is, like one via Coulterville, from
Merced, on the Southern Pacific Railroad.
(292)

THE MARIPOS.\ ROUTE,
From San Francisco, via Lathrop, Merced, Mariposa, Mariposa Big Tree Station
(Wawona ), and Mariposa Big Tree Groves, to Yo Semite Valley^
Stations marked {a) are stopping places at night for stage passengers; those marked (5) are
hotels, or where meals can be had; those marked (c) are where hay and grain are obtainable;
those marked {d) are stage stations.

STATIONS.

Distances in Miles.

By Railway.
Fro?n San Francisco io —
Lathrop, junction of the Southern Pacific with the Central Pa
cific Railroad {be)... 
Merced, on Southern Pacific Railroad {abe d) 
By Carriage Road.
From Merced to —
Half-way House, watering station {be) 
Forks of ruad to Snellings 
Lava Bed Station {c d) 
Griffith's Ranch 
Hornitos (i^ r) 
Forks of Road to Indian Gulch 
Smith's Ranch 
Corbett's Ranch {be)  = . . a 
Toll House 
ToUHouse  , 
Princeton {be) 
Lewis' Ranch {be) 
Mariposa (a bed) 
Mormon Bai 0 v 
Sebastopol Flat ib c) 
Thompson's Ranch {be) 
Turner's, formerly De Long's {be) 
Cold Spring {bed)  
Summit of Chowchilla Mountain 
Wawona* {abed)  , 
Eleven Mile Station {bed) 
El Capitan (lower iron) Bridge, Vo Semite Valley 
Leidig's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley {abe d) 
Cook's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley {abed) 
Barnard's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley {abed) 

152.03 58.0W

94-03

94.03

58.00

152.03

9.3-95

6.35

6.3^

87.60

0.87

7.22

SO. 73

7.26

14.48

79-47

363

18.H

75-84

4-35

32.46

71-49

1.52

23.98

69.97

2.44

26.42

67-53

1. 91

28.83

65.62

l.8i

30.14

63.81

2.83

32-97

60.98

2.65

35-62

58-33

3-54

39.16

54-79

1.70

40.86

53-09

1.89

42.75

51.20

2.76

45-Si

48-44

3-51

49- 02

44-93

3-93

52.95

41.00

4.36

57-31

36.64

5.24

62.55

31.40

4.50

67.05

26.90

10.76

77.81

16.14

12.51

90.32

3-63

2.56

92. 88

1.07

0.30

93.18

0.77

°-77

93-95

28
171
215 225
446 473 847898
i,°471,0751,5981,780
2,104 2,ri2 1.932 1,630
2,210 2,1142,741 3,126
5.6053.9235.567 3.843
* From Wawona (Clark's) to ani through the Mariposa Big Tree Gro\c5, and back to Big
Tree Station, 17 miles. RECAPITULATION.
Ey railway  152.03 miles.
By carriage road  -_   93-95
Big Tree Groves and back to station  17.00
Total distance  262.98 miles.
294

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

INDIAN WOMAN PANNING OUT GOLD.
great abundance of this beautiful lily,
the county, with its county town, received
its musical narae " Mariposa."
Once araong the raore abruptly formed
uplands of the county, evidences of gold
raining are on every hand ; and the irre
pressible prospector for gold is raet hunt
ing for hidden treasures. The world owes
much to the undi.scouraged energy of this
class of men ; as, but for their labors, much
of the wealth of the world would have
been undiscovered. Good luck then to
the prospector ; as blessings from the gold
he raay discover will, let us hope, bring
prosperity and happiness to hiraself and
family, and be more or less shared in bv
all. As much of the way, on any route we

As on other routes, our
course for the fiist few
miles after leaving the
railroad is among fertile
farras and bounteous
crops; then over gently
undulating and treeless
gravelly hills ; then across
or around oak knolls, in
termixed with fiower
ing shrubs and fiowers :
among which is the
charming Mariposa, or
"Butterfly Tulip," Gal-
ochortus venustus (Mari
posa being Spanish for
butterfly). Frora the

THE PKOSPELTOR.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 295
may elect to take for Yo Seraite, passes directly through some
portions of the mining rugion, where the principal occupation of
its people consists in extracting the precious metal ; and inasmuch
as the stranger, who has perhaps never looked upon gold-mining
scenes, feels a thrill of fascination in the thought of seeing people
" diggmg out gold " from the earth, it creates the teraptation to
give a brief outline of the method by which this is accomplished.
And by way of commencement let me explain that there are two
distinctly different sets of conditions, or of circurastances, under
which gold is found, and which necessarily require two different
systems of treatment ; one being in surface soils or gravels, and
the other in a ledge or vein formation; the forraer is called
"Placer Mining," and the latter "Quartz Mining."
After the discovery of gold upon a bar of the Araerican
River, Coloma, California, January 19, 1848, and for several
years thereafter, it was supposed that the precious metal was only
to be found in rivers, canons, gulches, and ravines ; then, experi
ence revealed the fact that gold was also to be found in flats, and
gravelly hills, away from existing water-courses ; then, advancing
knowledge presented scientific certainty that even the gold found
everywhere in placer diggings, had come, mainly, frora quartz
veins, or ledges — quartz being the principal matrix for its produc
tion. Let us, therefoi-e, follow the earliest and most priraitive
methods, and see how gold was then taken out of surface mines.
PANXIXG OUT GOLD.
The prospector having arrived at a spot that looked inviting,
at once cleared away the rocks and rubbish that might cover up
the "pay dirt;" then he would fill his pan, and carry it to the
nearest pool or stream of water, set it down into it, and, when
immersed beneath the surface, would coraraence an oscillatory and
slightlj'' tipping and rotary motion forward, by which the finer
particles of soil were induced to fioat away, and the pieces of rock
or pebbles near the top to becorae washed ; these were picked out
and thrown away , this process was repeated until there was noth-

296

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

ing left in the pan but the gold, and which, being the heaviest of
all, would keep settling down into the lowest inside edge, and
was thence taken out.
By this process thirty-five to fifty pans of pay dirt were
washed out per day, .sometimes more; the remuneration being in
proportion to the richness of the material washed — sonietimes
"only the color " would be obtained, and at others, vary frora a
few cents to raany dollars. The writer once found $137.50 in a
single pan of dirt. This method of digging gold was the earliest
and most primitive; the
batea, or broad, wooden
bowl of the Mexican, ex
cepted. "Panning out" gold was
soon discovered to be alto
gether too slow a process to
the impetuous American,
and was, accordingly, superseded by the "Cradle."
THE CRADLE AND MANNER UF USING IT.
This, as will be seen by the illustration (for it is still in use among

THE BATEA, OR MEXICAN BOWL.

CHINAMEN WASHING OPT GOLD WITH A CRADLE.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 297
the Chinese), was a wonderful improvement upon panning; as
two men, one to procure and carry the pay dirt, and the other to
wash it, could readily average a hundred bucketfuls per day each.
The plan of using the cradle will be very clear; as the pay
dirt, whether of soil or gravel, was emptied into the " hopper " at
the top of the machine, the bottom of which was perforated with
holes half an inch in diameter ; and while water was being poured
in upon the dirt with one hand the cradle was rocked with the
other. This complex movement was about as difficult of attain
ment to the novice, as that of the school-boy's attempt to rub
his nose with one hand while patting his chest with the other.
By this process, however, all the gold would pass through the 1 lot-
tora of the hopper, to be caught upon an apron iramediately be
neath it, and there saved; or, escaping the apron, would lodge in
one or other of the divisions across the bottom. Any pieces of
gold too large to pass through the hopper (and there have been
many of thesej were joyfully picked out, exulted over, and then
dropped into the " luck^' buckskin purse " and there taken care of.
Great as was the advance made from the pan to the cradle,
that in turn had to give way to the " Long Tom," by which thou
sands of bucketfuls (the only method of counting or of estimat
ing quantities in those days) would be washed in a single day.
But this again had to fall into desuetude, and be superseded by
SLUICE MINING, AXD GROUXD SLUICING.
The accorapanying illustration will give a general outline of
this method, almost at a glance. Long troughs, called " sluices,"
about twelve feet in length, are made to fit into each other at the
end; the nuraber used depending upon the clayey toughness of
the dirt to be washed, or the fineness of the gold to be saved ; and
varying from half a dozen to over one hundred lengths. Across
the bottom of these sluice-boxes bars are placed, partly to inter
cept the too rapid passage of the raaterial shoveled into thera, but,
principally, to forra a riffle and an eddy, wherein to provide a
place of settleraent for the gold being washed out. These troughs

298

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

are set at a sufficient slant to
insure the rapid passage of
water down them; the aurif
erous soil, or gravel, is then
shoveled in ; when all the finer
material, including the pre
cious metal, passes down the
sluice, the gold settles into the
riffles ; or, falling to the bottom,
is there saved ; while the soil is
carried off by the water. There is always one man needed to
" tend sluice," whose duties consist in throwing out the largest
of the rocks, and in having a general supervision of its working,
to prevent mishaps.
" Ground Sluicing " consists of turning a stream of water
into a raining claira, by which all the light and worthless material,
assisted by miner's picks, is made to float away ; when the gold
settles down among the rocks or gravel; and with the better

GROCND SLUICING.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

299

quality of earth remaning, is there saved, and afterwards shoveleil
into the sluice for gathering in and cleaning up.
GRAVEL, OR HILL MINING.
This is genially carried on by what is known as the "Hy
draulic Method." For the better apprehending of this, perhaps it
will be desirable to explain that in nearly all the mining districts
there are iraraense deposits of water-washed gravel, forraing whole
ridges and hills many hundreds of feet high. These have been
placed there by agencies not existing in the present day ; but how
they came, or when, is left entirely to the geologist or raining
expert. I do not know this, nor do I know any one that does.

WATER FLUME ACROSS A HOLLOW BETWEEN KlDGtS.
That they are there, and that they contain auriferous gravel
in untold abundance, is beyond any doubt; and it is with these,
and the methods of extracting the precious metal therefrom, that

300 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
we now have to do. Additional interest raay accrue from the
fact that, owing to the wonderful efficiency of hydraulic mining,
and the accredited filling up of navigable strearas frora the
" slickens " or gravel floated therefrora, their working has been
legally estopped by the courts.
Water, being the great working force in all placer raines,
was especially needed to tear down these mountains of gravel,
and wash out the gold; consequently, all sorts of canals, flumes,
and ditches were constructed, for conveying that invaluable ele
ment from living streams to the mining districts, at an enormous
expense. Once upon the ridge it was distributed from the main
canal by hose, or in smaller ditches, to the different mines, where
it was run into a sheet-iron pipe, largest at the upper end, and
there confined; so that the entire weight of the inclosed water,
frequently having hundreds of feet of vertical pressure, escaping
through a nozzle atthe lower end, like a fireman's pipe, tore down
the gravel with tremendous force, and caused iraraense raasses,
frequently raany scores of tons in weight, to " cave down," and
not only break themselves to pieces by the fall, but frequently to
bury the too venturesome miner underneath them. Sometimes
tunnels are driven far into these gravelly deposits, and hundreds
of kegs of blasting powder are simultaneously exploded, to shake
the banks into pieces, so that the gravel may be raore effectually
washed by the water. Frequently over a thousand miner's inches
of this element are brought to play, steadily, upon these " Hydrau
lic Mines." After several weeks have been consuraed at this, a
" clean up " is made, the results "bagged," and sent by express
to the San Francisco Mint. It can readily be seen what vast
quantities of this material would be annually run into the beds
of tributary streams, the tendency of which would be to choke
them up, and force an overflowing flood both of water and sedi
ment upon the low adjacent lands.
QUARTZ MINING.
This consists in extracting the precious metal from quartz,
which is the principal matrix for gold (although not the only one),

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 301
the ledges or veins of which .sometimes extend several thousand
feet down into the earth. Indeed it is more than probalde that
from this source nearly all the gold found in placer mining has
originally come ; as the action of air, water, sunshine, frost, and other
eleraents have disintegrated the matrix containing the gold, and
set the precious raetal free. Heavy rains and great floods have
washed the lighter silica into the water-courses, and thi'uce to the
valleys, thus forming the soil and gravel that has buried up the
gold ; and it was here that the early gold miner found his reward-
Lag treasures. Quartz ledges, or veins, are readily discoverable by their
white crests or belts cropping above or mapping the hills ; it must
not, however, be supposed that each and everj- one of these pos
sesses an inexhaustible nunc of untold wealth; far from it. Like
true worth in humanity, it is not self-assertive pnjminence that is
the unerring augury of excellence, as the boldest fronted are
proverbially of the' least intrinsic value. The richest of gold-pro
ducing veins are those which are generally wdthout distinguishing
features outwardly, and are composed of what miners call "rot
ten quartz." From this material (but not from this only by any
means) much of the wealth in and frora California, and elsewhere,
has been and is being produced.
When gold is found in bits of quartz lying on the surface
(and by these nearly all the
richest veins have been dis
covered), they are ground
fine in a raortar, and washed
in a horn spoon, or rainer's
pan; and when the "pros
pect" is deeraed encourag
ing, its fortunate discoverer,
under the uniformly (though
miner's PAN AND HORN SPOON. , ¦ • Vl N j. •
not invariably) correct im
pression that quartz ledges grow richer in proportion to the depth
attained, commences

302

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

SINKING A SHAFT.

To "sink a shaft" (this being a perpendicular opening in
the earth, usually from four to six feet in width) the sarae ap
pliances are used as in sinking a well, which it very much resem-

MINERS SINKING A SHAFT.

bles. As quartz ledges are seldom vertical, instead of the so-called
shaft, an opening is frequently made on the top, and the work con
tinued directly upon it, as here illustrated. Of course all these
were the earlier and raore primitive plans for obtaining gold from
the matrix, whether it be quartz, talcose or schist slate, greenstone,
soapstone, or any other gangue ; and only prepared the way for
the vast enterprises which subsequently followed, whose results
were known only by the millions of dollars extracted annually
from a single mine.
The principle of separating the precious metals from the
matrix in which they are found, is, substantially, the same in all
cases ; their treatment only differing according to the presence and
extent of the baser metals; and it is siraply this: The raatrix>
whether it be quartz or any other, is reduced to as fine a powder

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

303

as possible by pulver
ization, when the gold
naturally falls out ;
this being also fine,
might be carried off"
by the water useil in
a wet battery, to as
sist its manipulation
there; but, to prevent
it, as quicksilver and
gold (and other metals
also) have a remark
able affinity for each
other, the former met
al is placed within the
battery, on copper
plates below it, and
on other places where
connection with the
two affinities can be
assured, and the gold
retained. The quick
silver is then separated from the gold by forcibly squeezing it
through buckskin, where the gold is retained. This is now called
" amalgam," from which any quicksilver still remaining is sepa
rated by retortion, before the gold is melted into bars. The ex
planatory digression, here presented, is intended to assist the
stranger in traveling, understandingh', through the gold raining
districts ; and, it is hoped, give additional interest to the sights to
be witnessed while passing over it.
Hornitos (Spanish for little oven), is the first mining town
entered in Mariposa County ; Avhich, being originally settled by
Mexicans, and still having numerous representatives of that na
tionality, has more the appearance of a Spanish than an Ameri
can town. Its quartz ledges, however, are now attracting other

FOLLOWING DOWN THE LEDGE.

304 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
classes of residents thither, who are gradually changing its char
acteristics. Whatever changes may come to its people there
will never be any serious questioning as to the appositeness of its
name — unless it could be made to express something a little hot
ter ! This place is only about eight hundred and fifty feet above
sea level. A few miles easterly of Hornitos we enter upon the once
famous "Fremont's Mariposa Grant;" and, as one passes through
the various settlements that have been made upon it, how meraory
reverts to the busy hum of mining and of mining life that once
pulsated through the great arteries of this raineral aorta, giving
to it a strength of purpose that brought a pi'osperity which becarae
proverbial. It has long been a subject of legitiraate discussion,
however, whether or not the best interests of this entire region
would or would not have been best subserved, had the Freraont
grant never been fioated upon this raining district; notwithstand
ing the large suras of raoney that have been expended here at dif
ferent times, by the various companies that have represented that
ownership (for it has always been in some kind of financial or
managerial trouble). From the Benton Mills on the Merced to
Mormon Bar on Mariposa Creek, such towns as Bear Valley, Agua
Fria, Princeton, and Mariposa, prove that the eleraents of success
have been, and there can be no doubt are still here, and only
await favorable developraent to bring back the halcyon days of
yore, although much of the cream has been taken from the placer
mines. As we ride along we can see that every gulch, ravine, or flat
upon the way, bears the unmistakable scars of an active mining
life, and gives unmistakable evidence that a miner's labors, if they
bring prosperity to himself and family, and make acceptable ad
dition to the country's wealth, invariably bring desolation to the
landscape; yet, even this, is relieved by cultivated gardens,
orchards and vineyards, near and among the settlements ; while
Mount Bullion, "the backbone of the county," and its tirabered
spurs, attract attention by their scenic boldness. Frora the north-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 305
ern crest of this lidge sorae of the vertical cliffs of the Yo Semite
are distinctly visible, although some forty miles distant.
But here we are in the county town of Mariposa ; its court
house, hotels, stores, livery stables, printing offices, schools, churches
and numerous shops, tell at once that it is still the active center
of business for the raain portions of the county. And although
its people have had to contend with raarauding Indians, submit
to the desolating losses of fire at sundry tiraes, and bear their
share of the customary ups and clowns of life, they never seem to
have been discouraged. That the reward may come in the in
crease of business a thousand-fold is the writer's heartiest and
most devout wish. After sayuig a pleasant good-bye (and I never
knew any other), as soon as we reach the lower end of town we
pass a quartz mill of some forty .stamps, now unused ; and at the
outskirts of the town, we can .see covies of quail running hither
and thither in every direction.
THE CALIFORNIA QUAIL (Pcrdix Golifomica).
This beautiful bird abounds throughout California; if we
except districts destitute of shrubbery, and the higher mountain
region. It is a little larger than the quail of the Northern and
Western States, but as a tid-bit for the epicure is not fully its
equal ; its habits raaking the flesh harder and tougher. From
their great plentifulness, in many sections, there is no difficulty
in procuring them in large numbers for market. They can be
partially tamed, when kept in capacious cages, or in inclosures
where they can get to the ground ; they will then lay their eggs,
and rear their young, like the common fowl. Their fecundity is
remarkable; a single feraale, doraesticated by a friend of mine, in
a single suraraer, laid the astonishing number of seventy-nine eggs.
She was, raoreover, very tarae, and would eat from the hand of her
mistress, although invariably shy to strangers. Sometimes the
male bird was very pugnacious for several days together, when
her ladyship had to take refuge in a corner, or seek the protection
of a tea-saucer, from which they were daily fed.
The valley quail must not be confounded with that of the
20

306

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

PAIR OF CALIFORNIA VALLEY QUAIL.

mountain, or with the large mountain quail, as there are three
species, the former being the smallest, and the latter the largest of
the three, and very rare. The former, moreover, carries his tremu
lous top-knot, which generally consists of six feathers, though ap
pearing as one, forward; while those of both the other two trend
backward ; and it is not a little singular that while California quail
carry their top-knots as indicated, that of the Mexican quail
spreads out like a fan on the center of the head. In auturan they
become gregarious, as numerous distinct flocks or families unite;
the aggregate of which sometiraes araounts to over one hundred ;
but, even then, as in spring, they always go in pairs.
Our road now runs down Mariposa Creek, past quartz ledges,
and placer raines, to Mormon Bar ; where it commences to ascend
the hills at an easy grade, for several miles, among buckeye bushes,
jEscuIus Californica; greasewood, Ceanothus cuneatus ; leather-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

307

wood, Fremontia Californica; and white post oaks, Quercus
Douglasii.
Just about dark one evening as three of us were jogging along
this road (we had a camping outfit with us), and anxious to ob
tain necessary feed for our aniraals for the night, we stopped at
the gate of a'wayside house, at which stood a boy who had evi
dently, on that very day,
been invested in a new
suit of clothes, and felt
the dignity of siich a
rare event correspond
ingly. One of our party,
in the most conciliatory
of tonies, inquireil of this
scion of the household.
Has your father any
barley or oats he can sell
us?" "Don't know."
' ' Is he anywhere about
that we could ask him ? "
"Don't know." "Is
there any one in the
house — your father or
mother, or sister, or
brother — that we could
ask?" "I don't know
—I don't know nuffink." Being such a remarkable Ijoy we took
his portrait, and herewith present it, for his own recognition and
future study !
When riding upon nearly every highway in California, there
can be seen a brilliant-coated woodpecker, fiitting hither and
thither; the red, white, and black of his plume glinting brightly
m the sunshine. It is the red-headed woodpecker (Melanerpes
formicivorus). Tbe Spanish people here call it M Carpintero,
or Carpenter Woodpecker, from his singular habit of boring into

THE BOY THAT '¦ DIDN T KNOW NUFFINK

308

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

THE RED-HEADED WOODPECKER ( Melanerpes formidvoTus. )
the bark and dead wood of trees for the purpose of storing away
acorns. The rapidity with which his busy head moves, and the
rattling scrape of the sound given out, tell of his unraistakable
earnestness in taking care of the harvest. The entire trunks of
pine trees, to the height of thirty feet, are sometimes dotted with
the result of their labors. And it is not a little singular that,
after the hole is made in the bark or wood, its exact measure is so
carefully taken that, when an acorn is selected to insert in it, a

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 309
mistake is seldom raade in the size, to insure its fitting so snugly
that not even the pilfering jays can take it out, when once
driven in.
The red-headed woodpecker, contrary to the habits of birds,
provides for future eraergencies; and from instincts of its own,
anticipates some coming want, and prepares for it accordingly.
It is an open question, however, whether or not the acorn forms
part of its food; or is only the treasury of an insect possessing
essential qualities for the woodpecker's existence, when such are
unattainable elsewhere; sorae contending for the forjuer, while
others as persistently insist upon the latter. The same habit is
possessed, though not to the same extent, by the Melanerpes
erythocephalus, east of the Rocky Mountains.
Our ride for raany miles now is among or over gently roll
ing gravelly hills, covered with a light growth of shrubbery and
white post oaks; where nearly all the available flats, or small
valleys on streams, have been converted into grain fields, or gar
dens and orchards, so that numerous little teneraents add variety
to the journey. Farther on, the stately pines once terapted the
erection of saw-raills, one of which, White & Hatch's, became
famous for its excellence as a lunch house for Yo Semite tourists.
These industries raade the road lively by the coming and going
of teams, either with supplies up for mining' settleraents and
ranches, or with luraber down for the cities and towns.
Finally we reach Conway's at Cold Spring (where an excel
lent raeal and good bed can always be obtained), and here com
mence the ascent of Chow-chilla Mountain. In five and a quarter
miles, frora Conway's to the summit, we make a rise of two thou
sand four hundred and seventy-nine feet. But the many beauti
ful live-oaks, Quercus chrysolepis; black oaks, Q. Kelloggii; yel
low pines, Pinus ponderosa; sugar pine, P. Lambertiana; and
red cedar, Libocedrus decurrens, that throw their welcome shadows
on the road, or allow of openings between them to afford glirapses
of the charraing scenery beyond, beguile every raile and raoraent
of the way. And when once upon the summit what a tree feast
is here provided, which continues all the way to Wawona.

310 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Reveling in memories of such a luxuriant growth one cannot
wonder that the great newspaper genius, Horace Greele}', should
thus write about it: —
Here let me renew my tribute to the marvelous bounty and beauty
of the forests of this whole mountain region. The Sierra Nevadas lack
the glorious glaciers, the frequent rains, the rich verdure, the abundant
cataracts ofthe Alps; but they far surpass them — they surpass any other
mountains I ever saw — in the wealth and grace of their trees. Look down
from almost any of their peaks, and your range of vision is filled, bounded,
satisfied, by what might be termed a tempest-tossed sea of evergreens, fill
ing every upland valley, covering every hill-side, crowning every peak,
but the highest, with their unfading luxuriance. That I saw, during this
day's travel, many hundreds of pines eight feet in diameter, with cedars
at least six feet, I am confident; and there were miles of such, and smaller
trees of like genus, standing as thick as they could grow. Steep mount
ain-sides, allowing these giants to grow, rank above rank, without obstruct
ing each other's sunshine, seem peculiarly favorable to the production of
these serviceable giants. But the Summit Meadows are peculiar in their
heavy fringe of balsam fir, of all sizes, from those barely one foot high to
those hardly less than two hundred, their branches surrounding them in
collars, their extremities gracefully bent down by the weight of winter
snows, making them here, I am confident, the most beautiful trees on
earth. The dry promontories which separate these meadows are also
covered with a species of spruce, which is only less graceful than the
firs aforesaid. I never before enjoyed such a tree-feast as on this wearing,
difiicult ride.*
*Mr. Greeley being in a hurry (this had become habitual with him), and
anxious to see as much as possible in the limited titne he had allowed himself, rode
from Bear Valley to Yo Semite, over sixty miles, in a siagle day, or thereabouts;
thirty-eight of which were on the back of one of the hardest trotting mules in
America; and as he had not been in the saddle for thirty years, was somewhat
inclined to portliness, and the possessor of a cuticle as tender as that of a child,
there was but little of the unabrased article left, when he arrived in the valley at
one o'clock the next morning. His suffering must, therefore, have been intense;
and, being utterly helpless, he was carefully lifted from the saddle, his comfort
cared for as much as possible uuder the circumstances, and, at his own request,
put supperless to bed. Just before noon of the day of his arrival, he was
assisted from his couch, and, as he had speaking engagements to fulfill, after a
light breakfast, taken as distinguished guests are honored with a toast, he was
again lifted into the saddle, and without seeing any of the great sights beyond
the hotel, made a returning ride of twenty-four miles, to Clark's. He was seen
by the writer, iu San Francisco, some three weeks afterwards shufiling along the
sidewalk, slowly; and when allusion was made to his too evident lameness the re
sponse came: "Oh! Mr. H., you cannot realize howmuch I have suffered from
that jaunt to the Yo Semite." To speak glowingly, therefore, of anything, after
such an experience, proves Mr. Greeley to have been more than au ordinary man.

CHAPTER XXII.
THE MILTON AND BIG OAK FLAT ROUTE TO YO SEMITE.
Know the true value of time; snatch, seize, and enjoy every moment of it.
Never put off till to-morrow what you cau do to-day.
— Karl of Chesterfield's Letters to Iiia Son.
Wherefore did Nature pour her bounties forth
With a full and unwithdra« ing hand,
Covering the earth with odors, fruits, and -flocks.
But all to please and sate the curious taste? — Milton's Camus.
Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale
Her infinite variety. — Shakespe-Vr's Anthony and Cleopatra.
A glance at the outline map of routes will show that our
course is via Stockton and Milton; ju.st the same, .so far, as that
via the Calaveras Big Tree Groves; but, just beyond the Reservoir
House and reservoir, our road trends to the right, through Cop
peropolis — so named from the immense deposits of copper ore once
found here, the extraction of which employed many hundreds of
men. Now its deserted streets and decaying buildings tell the
sad story that the copper mines are no longer worked; and suggest
the business stagnation that ensued. But the coachman's cheery
" All aboard " will cut short any sympathetic reveries at the
change, and keep us rolling on among white post oaks and bull
pines, until we reach Byrne's Ferry at the Stanislaus River. It
is simply presumable that the name " Byrne's Ferry" will ever be
continued, although a substantial bridge made this a polite fic
tion of the past a score or more years ago.
Here, however, we see disconnected parts of a mountain of
volcanic origin, which to appearances is " as level as a table,"
and which is called by evervbody living near it. Table Mountain. (311)

BIG OAK FLAT ROUTE,

From San Francisco, via Stockton, Milton, Chinese Camp, and Big Oak Flat^ to
Yo Semite Valley.
Stations marked (a) are stopping places at night for stage passengers those marked {b)
are hotels, or where meals can be had; those marked {e) are where hay and grain are obtainable;
those marked {d) are stage stations.  ^ 
Distances in Miles.

STATIONS.

w

^

l\
M
"o
3
*^
By Railivay.
From San Francisco to —
Lathrop, junction of the Central Pacific with the Southern Pa
cific Railroad {b) 
Stockton, on Central Pacific Railroad {abe d) 
Milton, on Stockton and Copperopolis Railroad (bed)
By Carriage Road,
From Milton to —
Reservoir House {be) 
Copperopolis {bed) 
Byrne's Ferry Bridge, Stanislaus River 
Goodwin's, Table Mountain Pass {bed) 
Chinese Camp {abed) 
Moffitt's Bridge 
Keith's Orchard and Vineyard 
Stevens' Bar Ferry  
Culberton's Vineyard {e) 
Priest's Hotel {abed) 
Big Oak Flat {be) 
Groveland {be) 
Second Garrote . 
Spra^ue's Ranch {be) 
Hamilton's Ranch {bed) 
Colfax Spring, Elwe!rs(<^ e) 
South Fork Tuolumne, Lower Bridge 
Hardin's Ranch {e) 
South Fcrk Tuolumne River, Upper Bridge 
Crocker's Ranch (be).... 
Hodgdon*s RancH {be)  , 
Tuolumne Big Tree Grove 
Crane Flat {be)  ,
Tamarack Flat 
Gentry's (deserted) 
Junction of Big Oak Flat and Coulterville Roads.
Leidig's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley {abed) 
Cook's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley {abed) 
Barnard's Hotel, Yo Semite Valley {abed) 
133-05 39.02
9403
94-03
9.02
103.05
30.00
30.00
133-05
91.28 85-15
6.13
6..3
8.70
14-b,
76-45
7.00
21-83
69-45
3-50
25-33
65-95
3-5°
28.83
62.45
4.18
33-OI
58.27
1.03
34-03
57-24
1.24
35.28
56.00
3-45
38-73
52-55
2.21
40.94
50-34
1.07
42.01
49-27
2.24
44-25
4703
2.15
46.40
44-88
4-97
51.37
39.91
3.98
55-35
35-93
2-55
57.90
33-38
0.93
58-83
32-45
4-39
63.22
28-06
1.37
64-59
26.69
3-34
67.93
23-35
2.00
69.93
74.37
16-91
I 00
75-37
IS-91
5-07
80.44
10.84
2. Si
83-25
8.03
4-37
87.62
3.66
2-59
90.21
I 07
0.30
90-57
0 77
0.77
91.28
RECAPITULATION.
By railway  ,  133 05 miles.
By carnage road  gi.28 **
Total distance  0 - . . 224. 33 miles.
V

h

fj

t K- r!

i I/,

Photo, by Geo. Fiske.

Photo-typo by Britton & Key, S. F.

Whll of TjSble Mountkin.
(See page 313.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

TABLE MOU.NTAIN.

313

It is a superincumbent mass of volcanic trap that is supposed to
have commenced its outpour near Shaw's Flat, Tuolumne County;
and, flowing into the channel of an old river, followed its sinuous

From Neat Byrae'B Ferry.

TABLE MOUNTAIN.

course for over twenty miles ; but since that tirae, the hills that
once formed the banks of the stream have been washed and worn
down many hundreds of feet, so that they are far below the
surface of the lava, forraing the top of Table Mountain, leaving
its bold and vertical walls towering far above all. Immense rifts,
shaken in it at sundry tiraes, have enabled the present Stanislaus
River to force openings through it, and to tear away whole sec
tions ; hence the broken links in this chain of lava.
Many years ago some very rich auriferous gravel was found
in the old river bed underneath this .singular volcanic deposit, and
tunnels were run into it in every direction for the purpose of
" tapping " the paying strata, (one of which was driven nine
hundred feet through solid rock, and upon which three thousand

314 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
seven hundred and fif ty -six days' labor were expended, additional
to the cost of tools, blasting powder, etc.). How far these enter
prises became remunerative is still wrapped in mystery ; but suffi
cient information was allowed to escape to induce a numerous
following of such examples.
After crossing the Stanislaus River our road winds gradually
up the hill, whence fine views are obtained of that picturesque
stream, and the numerous broken walls and bolder points of
Table Mountain, among which Goodwin's Vineyard is most
charmingly situated. Just before arriving at the entrance gate,
however, we shall find the portrait of a Chinaraan and his pack,
upon their travels, painted upon a sign, containing this inscription
— ME GO CHINESE CAMP — 3 MILE ONE HALF. NoW
GOODWIN'S
Is a beautiful orchard and vineyard, fenced in raainly by volcanic
bombs from Table Mountain, by which it is surrounded. Its
well kept and weed-free grounds bespeak a becoraing pride in
their owner ; and the temptingly bright oranges, luscious peaches,
large and delicious grapes, pure home-made California wine, and
the refresning shade of unbrageous fig-trees, are suggestively in
viting of a brief yet delightful visit. From the ridge beyond this
a large, plain-like country, once covered with miners, stretches far
away in every direction, on one side of which stands
CHINESE CAMP.
Now it must not be supposed that the name found to belong
to this once prosperous raining settlement iraplies that it is in the
exclusive possession of natives of the Flowery Kingdora. Far
from it, inasrauch as they are now largely in the minority. It is
true, however, that nearly every mining town in California has a
liberal representation of this class, and it is also true that the
number found here in early days was far in excess of that gener
ally found elsewhere ; as it was a kind of head-quarters, especially
on Sundays, for all Chinaraen living within a radius of many
miles. This gave the town its narae.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

315

Every village, town, or city, in California, moreover, wherein
the Chinese congregate, has its " Chinese Quarter." They never
atterapt, socially, to interraix; and, unlike other nationalities, a
Chinaman never drops his distinctive habits, raanners, customs,
dress, or manner of living, to adopt those of a people by whom he
is surrounded. A Chinaraan, therefore, is always a Chinaman,
no matter where he may be. His contract with one or other

A CHINESE COUPLE.
of the "Six Corapanies," to which every Chinaman belongs,
always provides that should death come to hira in this strange
land, his bones shall be taken back to his native country. In
this he is as true a patriot as any man on earth. Whatever else

316

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

CHINESE FEAST TO THE DEAD.
he raay believe, or disbelieve, he never wavers in his allegiance to
the land that gave him national birth. Whatever else, therefore,
we may deny him, let us not withhold from him the just respect
that such a noble trait commands.
A CHINESE BELIEF WORTHY OF ADOPTION.
Whatsoever the Chinese may believe about God, they hold to
the idea, whether they carry it out in practice or not, that the
principal duty of man is to perform kindly services to each other,
upon earth, and thus bespeak the personal good offices of their
friends, especially of their parents, in the hereafter. A little of
this kind of philosophy incorporated into the Christain system,

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 317
would not be (as an English gentleman once expressed himself)
"half bad." Let us try a few good heavy doses of it as an ex
periment. Their " Feast to the Dead " probabl}- originated in this
idea, as, according to Mr. Williams, in his book upon the Middle
Kingdom, they thus address the departed at the grave: " My
tj-ust is in your divine spirit. Reverently I present thee five-fold
sacrifices of a pig, a fowl, a duck, a goose, and a fish; also an
offering of five plates of fruit, with libations of spirituous liquors."
INDIAN SOLUTION OF A DIFFICULT PROBLEM.
When the Indians in California first saw the Chinese, there
arose a dispute araong the former as to the country to which the
latter belonged, some contending that the Chinese were an inferior
race of Indians from beyond the .sea; and others, with equal
pertinacity, asseverating that their eyes and facial expression
were utterly unlike the Indians; and that, therefore, there could
be no tribal relationship between thera. This question they all
deterrained .should be effectually settled, and at once ; and as they
were all agreed upon one point, viz., that if the new-comers were
Indians, they could all swim ; a water test was accordingly accepted
as thoroughly satisfactory and conclusive to both parties.
When the spring snows were rapidly melting, and the angry
streams were booming, a tree having been fallen across by which
to form a foot-bridge, at an understood signal between the con
testants, they raet a couple of Chinaraen upon this bridge ; and,
pushing them into the angry current, drowned them both ! It
is stated that this was a perfectly demonstrative settlement of the
doubtful point between the contestants, and decided that China,-
men ivere not Indians! but it is not stated, authoritatively, that
this process of determination was equally satisfactory to the
Chinamen? Owing to convenience of location Yo Semite bound pas
sengers, as well as raany others, generally tarry for the night at
Chinese Carap, where they will find a brick hotel, clean beds,
attentive service, and an obliging, wide-awake landlord, in the

318 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
person of Count Solinsky, who has been Wells, Fargo & Co.'s ex
press agent here for over thirty-five years. Then there are
numerous stores, and one of the best wheelwright shops to be
found in any country. Here, too, once lived the large-hearted
and gifted physician. Dr. Lampson, whose genial face, so sadly
missed by old-timed friends, will never be looked upon again.
Leaving " the cloud-capped towers and gorgeous palaces " of
Chinese Camp behind us, our journey lies over rolling hills and
flat ravines to the western side of Wood's Creek, down which our
well-graded road winds and turns, affording grand views of a
wildly picturesque country in every direction, until we reach the
Tuolumne River.
Formerly our course lay past Jacksonville, where its resplen
dent oaks gave acceptable shade while watering the horses, and
for having a pleasant chat with one of its oldest pioneers, whom
everybody familiarly called "Dave Ackerman." This little
village is supported, mainly, by river mining (mostly monopolized
now by Chinamen) and the placer diggings of Wood's Creek.
Within a stone's throw of the hotel was "Smart's Garden," where
once grew the earliest • and finest of fruit; but which is now a
desert waste, owing to its having. been " worked out " by Chinese
miners, for the rich placers of gold found there, and which, follow
ing the cour.se of all gold dug out by these people, was exported
to China. A short distance above this, Keith's Orchard and
Vineyard, one of the best cultivated in the State, and producing
some of the choicest of fruit, were passed ; and a rade farther on,
the river was crossed by the Steven's Bar Ferry. Now all this
is changed, through the enterprise of Mr. J. R. Moffitt, who has
had a splendid combination truss bridge thrown across the
Tuolumne River Caiion, near Jacksonville, capable of supporting
a weight of one hundred tons. This is called
moffitt's TUOLUMNE CANOX BRIDGE.
It is three hundred feet in length (having a single span of
one hundred and sixty -five feet), twelve feet in width, is fifty feet

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 319
above low water mark; and its floor is six hundred and fifty feet
above the sea. As we stand upon this we are for a moraent at a
loss which to adraire mo^t, the skill and pluck of its builder and
owner, or the beautiful scenes to be witnessed from it on every
hand. When we see how a broad road has been hewn out of the
mountain's side, and in all its turnings and windings preserved its
uniformity of breadth and excellence; and then note how the
chasm forming the river's channel has been spanned by so fine a
structure, we are ready to accord due and admiring credit to the
originator of the undertaking, and yet not forego the pleasure of
looking at the beautiful scenery. By the commodious and com
fortable residence erected near a deliciously cold spring, it would
seem that Mr. Moffitt expects to make his permanent horae in this
wild caiion.
After relieving one's conscience concerning the bridge, the
road, and their builder, a clearer outlook can be had of the country,
and a concise suramary of the whole will be embodied in Mr. John
Taylor's expressive sentence concerning it: "Skirting the Tuol
umne River for three miles, the scenery becomes picturesi^ue in
the extreme, the grand panorama ever changing, so as to keep
tourists and lovers of nature's pristine grandeur in one continual
ecstasy of delight."
Leaving the main streara our course is now up one of its trib
utaries, for three and a half miles, known as Moccasin Creek;
past vineyards, mines, and rainers. This entire section becoraes
noteworthy from its prodigality in children's faces, seen at the
doors and windows of its humble dwellings. One family numbers
thirteen, another only eleven, and so on, exclusive of their fathers
and mothers ! Soon after crossing the bridge we come to Newhall
and Culbertson's Vineyard (for although the forraer has passed
horae to the spirit-land, the narae is still retained in the firra).
This is another of those wayside tarrying places where fruit of
the finest quality is in abundance, and where we can obtain a
glass of the raost delicious white wine to be had in any portion
of the State. It is but siraple justice to these people to say that

320 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
their charges are not only very reasonable, but always low.
Here the altitude above the sea, as given by the U. S. (Wheel
er's) Survey, is nine hundred and eighty feet.
For the next two and a quarter miles our road is on the side
of a mountain, covered with a dense mass of shrubbery, among
which will be found manzanita, buckeye, mountain mahogany,
pipe wood, Indian arrow, granite wood, and numerous other kinds;
all of which, if cut in the proper season, — November to March —
are hard and useful furniture woods, susceptible of a very high
polish. You will think this quite a raountain climb — and it is. It
will be well, however, to bear in mind that, before coramencing
the descent toward Yo Semite, we have to attain an altitude of
nearly seven thousand feet from our starting point ; we raust,
therefore, coraraence ascending soraewhere, and why not here?
It will be a task upon our patience, perhaps, but as it seems to be
a trial of both wind and muscle to the horses, we raay surely con
sole ourselves with the thought that we can stand it — if they can.
Up, up we tod, many of us on foot, perhaps, in order to ease the
faithful and apparent^ overtasked animals, which puff" and snort
like miniature locomotives, while the sweat drops frora thera in
abundance. In two and a quarter miles there is a clear gain in
altitude of one thousand five hundred and seventy -eight feet,
between Culbertson's Vineyard and Priest's H«tel.
One quiet evening, in the height of summer, after the sun
had set, and the deep purple atmosphere peculiar to California
had changed to somber gray, we (the passengers) were wending
our way up the mountain on foot, and a little ahead of the stage,
when a rustling sound, just below the road, startled us with its
.singular and suspicious distinctness, and dark shadowy forms.
were seen gently threading their way among the bushes. Our
hearts beat uncomfortably fast, and we instinctively felt for our
revolvers, but they were in the stage ! It should be told that at
this tirae nuraerous robberies had been committed upon the high
way by Joaquin, Tom Bell, and their respective gangs. '' We are

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 321
caught," whispered one. " They will rob, and perhaps murder
us," suggested another. " We can die but once." bravely retorted
a third. " Let us all keep close together," pantomimed a fourth.
"Who goes there r' loudly challenged a fifth. "A friend," ex
claimed the riiig-leadtr of a party of miners who were climbing
the steep sides of the mountain just atour side, with their blankets
at their backs, all walking to town, and who had caused all our
alarm ; and as he and his corapanions quietly seated themselves
by the road-side, they commenced wiping off the perspiration, and
gave us cordial salutation in good plain English. " Why, bless
us, these men, who have almost frightened us out of our seven
senses, are fellow-travelers'" "Couldn't you see that?" now
valorously inquired one whose knees had knocked uncontrollably
together with fear only a few moments before. At this we all
laughed; and the coachraan having stopped his stage, said, " Get
in, gentleraen;" and we had enough to talk of and to joke about
until we reached Priest's Hotel, at the top of the hill.
priest's HOTEL.
Travelers in raany lands have made frequent confessions to
the writer, that this unpretentious wayside inn is araong the most
comfortable and enjoyable they haAe ever found in any country.
Could coraraendatory volumes written upon it therefore say more?
Manv, many tinies have I tested it, and can both conscientiously
and eraphatically indorse every sentiraent uttered in its praise.
For although it will not, I trust, be deeraed out of place to say, in
all kindness, that no traveler should ex]3ect to find meals and ac
commodations in tho mountains of California equal to those of
the Palace Hotel, the Grand, the Baldwin, the Occidental, or the
Lick House of San Francisco, no one will leave this hospice with
out carryino- away with him the conviction that these people are
among the too limited number of those " who know how to keep
a hotel;" and regretfully riding away from its hospitable door,
leave the best of good wishes behind them. What more then
can be said?21

322 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
A DOG STORY.
Now Priest's at one time had a very remarkable dog (there
is no doubt about that fact), which writers have accredited with
the wonderful intelligence of knowing the exact time the upward-
bound passengers were due for dinner ; when he would start ofi"
with a bound down the hill, and, meeting the stage, would look
steadfastly at the inside for a few raoments, as though counting
the number of people to be found there, and then scamper back
up the hill. Instead of lying down in front of the hotel (his u.sual
and favorite pastime, as well as that of other dogs), he would de
liberately make for the poultry yard; and, seizing the youngest
and plumpest of its tenants, would carry it at once to the cook,
repeating this until the requisite number was provided ! Now, it
might seem to be a wanton, and, perhaps, an envious act on my
part to attempt to destroy the effect of a good story by question
ing its reliability in the smallest degree ; yet, I cannot resist the
temptation of submitting, whether or not the tenderness, juici
ness, and flavor of the well-cooked chicken found upon the table,
might not be somewhat in conflict with placing implicit confidence
in that statement? But this I do know, that he would at any
time, unharmedly, seize any fowl pointed out to him, and take it
direct to his master.
The coraraanding view from tho porch, and especially that
frora the hill at the back of the house, not only presents the broad
valleys below, with their glinting strearas, and cluraps of oaks,
but the bold outline of the Coast Range bordering the Pacific
Ocean, and all the intermediate landscape. Frequently, too, the
whole country seems fiooded with billowy clouds, over the tops
oc which peaks and raountain ranges stand boldly out in the
tran.sparent atmospheric strata above them.
BIG OAK FLAT.
When leaving Priest's we must not omit to notice the evi
dences of mining on every hand, even if we forget the unpleasant
fact that a miner's labors invariablj' bring desolation to the land-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 323
scape. Nor raust we pass unseen the sturdy, branch-lopped, and
root-cut veteran trunk of a noble and enorraous oak, Quercus
lobata; some eleven feet in diameter, now prostrate, on our right ;
as it was from this once famous tree that " Big Oak Flat," the
village through which we pass, and the route, received their names.
Then, however, its immense branch-crowned top gave refreshing
.shadow to the traveler, and beauty to the scene. We fear that
many a year will have made its faithful record before our virtues
becorae sufficiently Christian to confess personal forgiveness to
those who committed, or even perraitted, the vandal aet of its
destruction. We take real comfort in the thought that its storm-
beaten, dead, limbless, and prostrate form must daily administer
stinging reproofs to every one whose act, or silence, gave sanc
tion to the deed.
As we spin along among pines and firs, the deliciously
bracing "champagne atraosphere" (as a lady friend so naively
expresses it), is quaffed with a delightful and thrilling zest that
raakes itself felt through every nerve tissue of our being. Even
the brief delay at Groveland (a bustling little mining town) to
change the mail, only postpones the pleasure, that is renewed the
moment we advance. CHAFFEY AXD CHAMB ERLAIX'S.
The gardens, vineyards, and orchards that are passed only
add agreeable variety. But, speaking of orchards; at Garrote
(such narae-givers deserved to be garroted 1), the last raining
town passed on the journey (there are several), let me caution
vou against stopping at Chaftey and Chamberlain's (two affection
ate and noble-natured old bachelors who have lived and mined
together for over thirty years) ; for the large and luscious fruits
they take so much pride in producing will be sure to tempt you
to eat again (and so soon after leaving Priest's, you know), and it
is a long way to the doctor's! Before leaving here, let me call
especial attention to two species of beautiful oaks ; one is the weep
ing white oak, Quercus lobata; and the other a live oak, Quercus

324 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
chrysolepis, as they are among the best representatives of that
family that I have ever seen, anywhere.
A COSTLY PIECE OF ENGINEERING.
A short ascent up a somewhat steep hill, brings us to the
ups and downs of a ridge road, with timber and shrubbery on
both sides. The large ditch we cross several tinies is that of the
GoWen Rock Water Company, constructed for the purpose of
sujiplying the mining towns below with water for mining pur
poses. This work will be seen at different tinies until we pass
the "Big Gap;" where still liethe burnt fragments of a flume,
once the pride of its engineers, as the finest wooden structure of
the kind in the State, with a height of two hundred and sixty-
four feet above the Gap, and a length of two thousand two hun
dred feet; costing the snug little amount of pocket-change of
eighty thousand dollars. A strong wind one night told the sad
story, that " the best laid plans of mice and men gang aft agiee,"
and made it a total wreck. Now, a large iron tube placed upon
the ground answers the purpose of the flume. This only cost some
twelve thousand dollars. An immense deposit of " tailings " at
the " Little Gap" we are now passing, with the water-torn banks of
a gravelly hill standing near, tell that the work of hydraulic min
ing has but recently ceased here.
HAMILTON'S.
A little beyond this we come to a bright little home-like
spot called " Hamilton's;" and, while the horses are being changed,
the opportunity will be afforded of making the acquaintance of
its owners. Mrs. Harailton, who is the presiding genius of the
household (her husband probably being busy on the farm), can
cook as nice a meal as alraost any one, and by adding a little
spice of praise to this or that upon the table (not to the cooking,
remember, as she is too modest for that), induce you to find an
a]ipetite to eat it ; but as the stage arrangements raay not allow
of such a test, she will l>e sure to have some kind of fruit to offtjr ;
and, if that is out of season, has always a kindly word, and a re
freshing glass of water to give you. Try it.

THE ro SEMITE VALLEY. 325
As we advance it is (evident that the tiraber becomes laro-er
and the forest land more extensive. The gently rollino- hills
begin to give way to tall mountains ; and the quiet and even tenor
of the landscape changes to the wild and pictuies(^ue. An occa
ssional deer may shoot across our track; or covies of quail, with
their beautiful plumage and nodding " topknots," whirr amono-
the bushes. The robin, and meadow-lark, and oriole may prove
to us that they still have a love and a voice for rausic ; and the
" too-coo-"ing of the dove tells that, its sweetly mournful voice
" is still heard in our land."
A FORETASTE OF GRAND SCENES.
But who, in feeble language, can fully disclose the grandeur
of the scenery that opens before us a short distance east of the
Big Gap? When the painter's art can build the rainbow upon
canvas so as to deceive the sense of sight — when simple words
can tell the depth and height, the length and breadth of a single
thought — or the metaphysician's skill delineate, beyond peradvent
ure, the hidden raysteries of a living soul — then, ah ! then, it raay
be possible. Deep down in an abyss before us is a gulf — a caiion — of raore
than two thousand feet. The gleaming, silvery thread, seen run
ning among bowlders, is the Tuolumne River, a hundred feet in
width. Its rock-ribbed sides, in places, show not a vestige of a
tree or shrub. In others, its generous soil has clothed the almost
perpendicular walls with verdure. As the eye wanders onward
and upward, it traces the pine-clad outlines of distant gorges,
whose tributary waters compose and swell the volume of the
stream beneath us. To the right, surrounded by noble trees, can
be discerned a bright speck — it is a water-fall a hundred feet in
height and thirty feet in width. In the far distance, piercing the
clouds, the snow-covered peaks of the Sierras lift their glorious
heads of .sheen, while a beautiful purple haze casts its broad, soft
ening mantle over all. Our road, .shaded by lofty pines and um
brageous oaks, and cooled by a delicious breeze, lies safely near

326 IN THE HE.iRT OF THE SIERRAS.
the edge of the precipice; the whole panorama rolled vividly out
before us. It is such scenes as this that introduce such grateful
changes to such a journey.
Just beyond this we arrive at El well's, Colfax Springs;
another pleasant little wayside house, and soon thereafter cross the
south fork' of the Tuolumne River, at the lower bridge; then wind
our way up a long hill, over to Hardin's Ranch; and after re
crossing the south fork by the upper bridge, ascend another long
hill, and are then at the justly faraous lunch house of
Crocker's.
The pretty little garden, bright with flowers, bespeaks a
cheery welcorae alraost before we alight, and the look of cleanli
ness everywhere apparent prepares the way for an appetizing
raeal. There is no hurry, no excitement; a quiet wash, followed
by the quiet announcement that " lunch is ready," and we are
ushered into a roora where a most elegant repast awaits us. It
is but simple justice to Mr. and Mrs. Crocker, to say that their
table is loaded with creature comforts, and in such abundance and
variety that even the most delicate or fastidious can find some
thing they can relish and enjov. There are but few places upon
earth, if there are any, where a more excellent refection can be
obtained, or one be more pleasantly served.
Still our course is upward, until we have reached a long
stretch of elevated table-land that, for tiraber, is not excelled in
any portion of the State. Large sugar-pine trees, Pinus Lam
bertiana; frora five to ten feet in diaraeter, and over two hundred
feet in height, devoid of branches for sixty or a hundred feet, and
straight as an arrow, everywhere abound. Besides these there
are thousands of yellow pines, Pinus jionderosa; Douglas firs,
Abies Douglasii ; and cedar, Libocedrus decurrens; that are but
little, if any, smaller or shorter than the sugar-pines. These
forests are not covered up with p. dense undergrowth, as at the
East, but give long and ever-changing vistas for the eye to pene
trate.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 327
Mr. George McQuesten, of East Boston, measured one of
the prostrate sugar-pine trees in this grove, with the following re-
.sults: Circuraference, three feet from base, twenty -one feet ten
inches; fifty feet from base, fourteen feet six inches; one hun
dred feet frora base, eleven feet three inches ; one hundred and fifty
feet frora base, eight feet six inches ; two hundred feet frora base,
four feet three inches ; two hundred and nine feet frora base, two
feet three inches. This might have been from twenty feet to forty
feet higher when standing. It contained nineteen thousand five
hundred and sixty running feet of lumber, or one thousand seven
hundred and eighty cubic feet, after deducting ten per cent for
saw scarfs. Value in Boston, less cost of carriage and sawing,
§195. While thinking, and almost dreaming of forest scenes, we
bave arrived at the TUOLUMNE GROVE OF BIG TREES.
These are of the same genus. Sequoia gigantea, as those of
Calaveras, Mariposa, and other groves; many fine speciraens of
which stand by the road-side, or can be readily seen without leav
ing the coach ; but none can realize their large proportions without
standing up against one, or walking around it. Besides, it rests
us to walk a little, and adds much to the interest to touch their
enormous sirles. There are about thirty in this group, well pro
portioned, and excellent representatives of the class. Two of them
which grew from the same root, and unite a few feet above the
base, are called the " Siamese Twins." These are about one hun
dred and fourteen feet in circumference at the ground, and, con
sequently, about thirty -eight feet in diameter — of course including
both. The bark has been cut on one side of ohe of them and has
been found to raeasure twenty inches in thickness. Near the
"Twins" there are two others -which measure seventy-four feet
around their base. THE DEAD GIANT.
One of the raost striking exaraples of the extraordinary
growth of this species is found in the immense sturap called "The

THE YO .SEMITE VALLEY. 329
Dead Giant," for, although fire has entirely denuded it of its bark,
and largely reduced its proportions, it is even now thirty-one feet
in diaraeter. By the earthy ridges that form around almost e\'ery
forest tree, it is plainly evident that this, at one time, raust have
had a circumference of over one hundred and twenty feet. For
the purpose of enabling visitors more easily to apprehend its
enormous size, a "tunnel " has been cut through it which is ten
feet in width by twelve in height, and through which the stage
coach passes when either going or returning to Yo Semite. There
is no more convincing evidence of size than this in either of the
groves — if we except the " Stump " at Calaveras. Within a few
yards of this grows one of the finest and most symraetrical repre
sentatives of this wondrous faraily.
" Excelsior " being our motto, we shall soon reach " Crane
Flat." These flats are grass}' meadows, interspersed araong the
mountain districts, and are generally the heads of creeks or rivers,
being almost always "springy." Of late years they are fed off
by bands of sheep, brought frora the plains when the feed there
has become short or dry. Running upon or over trails, they are
apt to obliterate all traces of the traveler's course, and where a
short turn is raade, great care is needed, by the inexperienced, to
prevent being lost. Crane Flat, kept by Mrs. Gobin, was once
celebrated for the excellence of its meals, when horseback riding
•was the only method of reaching Yo Semite. Its wrecked build
ings now tell their own story of the effects of deep snow. Here
the stage possibly changes horses, and thirsty passengers take a
drink with Mr. Hurst (whora nearly all the old-timers affection
ately call " Billy Hurst ").
One of the obstacles to be overcome for early season travel
to Yo Semite on the Big Oak Flat Route was the deep snow belt
of some ten miles, lying between the Tuolumne Big Tree Grove
and Gentry's; the highest part of the road being seven thousand
feet above sea level. Here snow would be from six to twenty
feet deep. To shovel all this out was a herculean and expensive
undertaking, while building walls of snow that reached far above

330

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

the tops of stage coaches. Then, the glaring sheen of the sun
shine on a white surface was exceedingly trying to the eyes of
the shovelers, and frequently brought "snow-blindness;" attended
with the discomfort, and unhealthiness, of working in wet snow
that chilled their lower limbs while the entire upper part of their
body was steaming with perspiration. These difficulties, there
fore, must be conquered by other means. But, how? That
query brought forth another: Why not put
SNOW-SHOES ON THE HORSES?
This experiment was accordingly tried, and proven to be
most eminently successful. A glance at the accompanying en
graving will give an idea of their form, and thc manner of th(dr use.

HOESE ON SNOW-SHOES.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 331
The horse snow-shoe is made of one inch ash plank, thirteen
inches long by eleven wide. It is rounded at the corners to pre
vent striking, or chafing ; and a hollow is cut at the back to allow
full play to the shoe, without cutting or bruising the leg. There
are three holes mortised in the upper surface of the snow-shoe, the
exact size and shape oi the horse-shoe calKs, and which are in
serted therein, to keep the foot in its place, and give solidity to
the tread. To raake the snow-shoe clutch the horse's hoof snugly,
well-fitting fiat bands of Norway iron, lined with thick india-
rubber cloth, are placed across and clip it; these raeet in the
center of the foot, where they are brought together by an adjust
able screw-bolt ; the lower ends of these bands pass through the
snow-shoe, to which they are fastened by a bolt and nut, and
becorae assistant tighteners of the clip. On the under .side the
snow-shoe, and additional to the bolt and nut, an iriegular and
almost heart-shaped flange of steel, about half an inch in depth, is
riveted, nearly covering the bottom of the shoe, and which pre
vents sliding in any direction, while adding to its strength To
prevent the snow-shoe from splitting, a fine bolt is run through
each end.
When every foot is equipped with one of these, each of the
four horses forming the teara is ready for the start. Now the
interesting essay of using thera coraraences. Each aniraal see);is
to have an intuitive knowledge of what they are for, as of the
duties expected of them ; for, carefully lifting the foot higher than
he would under ordinary circumstances, with a somewhat rotary
and semi-oscillatory movement, he throws the foot forward, and
one shoe over the other, with such intelligent de.xterity th.:„t they
rarely touch each other; and invariably manages to take the
front snow-shoe out of the way, before setting the hind one in its
place. There is no confusion or even awkwardness in their use,
although there is in appearances when seeing horses in such un
gainly-looking appendages.
I speak from personal observation, after several delightful
sleigh rides over that snow -belt with Joe Mulligan (we all know

332 IN THE HEA RT OF THE SIERRAS.
him by that unpretentious and farailiar cognomen only), whose
patient care, skill, and watchful management of his horses, under
the most trying circumstances, occasionally, elicited my wannest
admiration. The gait uphill was a quiet walk, at the rate of
about three miles an hour, performed with no more exciteraent or
friction than a heavily-laden teara would use, in raoving its load
upon a level road. Downhill we frequently took a short trot,
and which, like the walk uphill, was accomplished without
clumsiness. The time generally consuraed in crossing the ten
miles of snow was about three and a half hours.
To illustrate how much such pioneer path-finders over snow
have sometiraes to endure, it is only necessary to sketch a single
" first trip of the season." There were three strong raen. Mulli
gan, Billings, and Wood, who left Crocker's early one April morn
ing for Crane Flat, some six railes distant, with a coach and four
good horses, sleigh, horse snow-shoes, shovels, axes, ropes and
other desirable accessories for such an enterprise. Deep new
snow had made progress exceedingly slow and difficult. At two
o'clock on the following raorning they succeeded in reaching the
point designated, but no signs of buildings were visible in all the
snowy waste. They could see large hillocks of snow, but no place
wherein to shelter theraselves and horses. Finally, as day was
breaking, they found the bearings of the stable door; and, weary
as they were, coramenced shoveling away the feathery element in
front, in order to give their tired aniraals a place of refuge, and
necessary food. An entrance to the stable was eventually secured ;
but, as the snow was some eighteen feet in depth, and a passage
way down to the floor would be the work of many industrious
hours, they led each horse, separately, as near as possible to the
opening effected ; when, by fastening one rope around the head, and
another to the tail of each animal, they lowered thera into their
quarters for the night, by sliding them down over the snow ; and,
being too tired to eat, the men rolled themselves up in their
blankets, and forgot the fatigues of the day in refreshing sleep.
About ten o'clock A. M., they found theraselves outside of

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 333
their breakfasts (as they expressed it), and were again upon the
snow — one might have said the road, but that lay from sixteen to
twenty feet below the surface. Spending this day also in weary
ing and unflinching effort, they only broke the way to the top of
the ridge, some two and a half miles distant, and then returned
to their inhospitable quarters at Crane Flat for that night also.
On the following day they again, undauntedly, set their own and
horses' faces towards Yo Semite, still some sixteen miles distant.
Its mountain peaks, and cheery open fire-places, far down out of
the snow, became delightfully stimulating day-dreams to thera ;
and, about nine o'clock p. M., Tamarack Flat had been gained,
and five additional miles overcorae, leaving eleven only to be con
quered. Here, also, the snow was as deep as at their stopping-
place of the two preceding nights; and similar experiences in
snow-shoveling, and horse-sliding down to the stable floor, had to
be indulged in until long after midnight. Hungry as wolves,
most of the reraaining portion of the night was spent in cooking
and eating, and the residue only devoted to renewing slumber.
Notwithstanding these protracted wrestlings with their white-
faced enemy, their motto, " There's no such word as fail." was not
only inscribed upon their determined faces, but was written deeply
in their wills and hearts ; and as soon as a passage-way out for
their horses could be dug through the snow, and the snow-shoes
were adju.sted to the aniraals, they made the crisp air ring with
the shout, "Ho! for Yo Semite," and again started forward. On
reaching Cascade Creek Bridge they found the snow piled upon
it as deep and as steep as the roof of a Swiss cottage ; but, with
shovels in hands, as defiant of obstacles as ever, they dug a path
way across it, led the horses over in single tile, pulled over the
sleigh with ropes, and again .set out for the Valley. Before noon
they reached the lower edge of the snow-belt, and the solid earth;
where they left their sleigh, and horse snow-shoes, and by three
o'cloc'k p. M. were safely at the hotels at Yo Semite. Pluck,
human endurance, and determination, had conquered a victory.
All honor to such noble and unremitting exertion.

334 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Nor were these by any means the only efforts that were made
to overcome the elemental forces in antagonism to early tourist
travel to Yo Semite; inasrauch as Mr. A. H. Washburn, the
energetic superintendent of the Yo Semite Stage and Turnpike
Corapany, and assistants, had pressed every available man into
service on the southern side of the great chasm ; to shovel snow,
chop out limbs and trees that had fallen across the road, drain
and repair the road-bed, rebuild road walls and bridges, and per
form all sorts of other and sirailar services, before coaches could
safely and expeditiously carry passengers into the great Valley.
Those who make the journey later, and find evervthing just as it
should be, can form but a veiy inadequate idea of the difficulties
that have been surmounted, the labor perforraed, and money ex
pended in theso necessary enterprises.
Two and a half miles above Crane Flat the highest portion
of the road is reached, being seven thousand feet above sea level ;
and which, lying upon the dividing ridge which separates the
waters of the Tuolumne River from those of the Merced, the out
look frora it is strikingly bold. From this ridge magnificent views
of distant landmarks, and the snow-covered peaks of the Sierras
open at brief intervals before us ; while timber-covered ridges and
gorges stretch farther and farther away to the verge of the dis
tant horizon ; with an occasional mountain of verdureless rock,
standing gloriously out as if to defy the further encroachments
of those evergreen masses o: pines. There does not seem to be
a foot of ground over which we are passing that has not some
novelty to charm us.
The apparently omnipresent forest overarches our way ; and
beautiful firs, Abies <:oncolor and A. grandis, the magnificent
pines, F. Jeffreyi, P. ponderosa, and P. Lambertiana; and
" tamaracks," Pinus contorta, .stand sentinel guard on every hand ;
while patches of stunted manzanita, Arctostaphylos glauca, with
its evergreen leaves and fragrant waxy-like blossoms; and several
difterent species of Ceanothus literally loading the air with their
perfume, and brightening the landscape with their plumes of white

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 335
and blue, attract our attention, until, by a gentle declivity, we pass
Tamarack Flat, down to Cascade Creek, where the water is
dashing itself to atoms, that scintillate and sparkle in the sun ; and
arriving at Gentry's, comraence the descent of the raountain-side
on the Yo Seraite Turnpike Road. Lookiiig down the great caiion
of the Merced River frora this point, there opens before us one of
the most magnificent and comprehensive scenes to be found any
where; as not only can the numerous windings of the river be
traced for miles, as it makes its exit from the valley, but its high
bluffs and distant mountains stand boldly out. At another turn
ing of the road we look into the profound and haze-draped depths,
and up toward the sublirae and storm-defying heights, with
feelings all our own, and behold Yo Semite.
Before closing this chapter it becomes ray pleasant duty to
chronicle the historical fact, thatthe Big Oak Flat and Yo Seraite
Turnpike Road Company was the first ever organized for the
purpose of extending wagon road facilities beyond the settleraents
in the direction of the Yo Semite Valley. When the great over
land railroads, the Central Pacific and Union Pacific, were near
ing completion, in 1869, the question was very properly considered
of providing easier transit for the large class of visitors that might
be attracted hither ; and who, unlike old Californians, were un
accustomed to horseback riding. In this emergency the residents
of Bio- Oak Flat and vicinity were waited upon, and as a busi
ness lethargy had fallen upon that district, in the hope of its re
vival somewhat by such an enterprise, these people formed a cora
pany ; and the road was corapleted that year to Hardin's, leaving
but about twenty-five miles to be traversed on saddle animals.
Encouraged by the liberal patronage bestowed, this was extended
the following year to Hodgdon's; and, during the next two years,
to Gentry's, the northwestern corner of the ^o Seraite Grant.
As the corapany was not financially strong enough then to com
plete it to the valley, this became the terminus of the road, and
so continued until its corapletion to Yo Semite, July 17, 1874, on
which occasion over five hundred persons passed over it, in a
kind of triumphal procession.

CHAPTER xxin.
SCENES TO BE WITNESSED FROM THE FLOOR OF YO SEMITE
VALLEY.
Who doth not t'eel, until his failing sight
Faints into dimness with its own delight.
His changing cheek, his sinking heart confess
The might, the majesty of Loveliness? — Byron's Bride of Abydoa, Canto I.
How massively doth awful Nature pile
The living rock. — THOMA.S Docbledat's Literary Souvenir.
All are but parts of one stupendous whole.
Whose body Nature is, and God the soul. — Pope's Essay on Man.
Once within the encompassing walls of the glorious Valley,
and the broad shadows of its mighty cliffs are thrown over us like
some mystic raantle, fatigued as we may be, every jutting mount
ain, every pointed crag, every leaping water-fall, has a weird yet
captivating charm, that makes us feel as though we were enter
ing sorae fictitious drearaland. Even the rainbow hues, which
are playfully toying with the raists and sprays and beautiful
rocket-like fornis of the Pohono, or Bridal Veil Fall ; or the raani
fold pearly lights and shades that are intermixing and coramingling
on that marvelous promontory of vertical granite, known as El
Capitan, distributed broadcast as they are, only enhance the de
lusion. There comes a feeling over us akin to syrapathy in the
thought-painted picture of Mr. Greeley, when entering the Valley
on the eventful first moonlighted night of his visit: —
That first full, deliberate gaze up the opposite height! can I ever for
get ity The valley is here scarcely half a mile wide, while its northern
wall, of mainly naked, perpendicular granite, is at least four thousand feet
(33(5)

Photo, by Geo. Fiske.

Plioto-typo by Brtttou & Key, S. F.

The Nevhdb Fhll-Yo-wi-ye.
(See page 447.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 337
high — probably more [since demonstrated by actual measurement to be
three thousand three hundred]. But the modicum of moonlight that fell
into this awful gorge gave to that precipice a vagueness of outline, an in
definite vastness, a ghostly and weird spirituality. Had the mountain
spoken to me in audible voice, or begun to lean over with the purpose of
burying me beneath its crushing mass, I should hardly have been sur
prised. Its whiteness, thrown into bold relief by the patches of trees or
shrubs which fringed or flecked it whenever a few handfuls of its moss,
slowly decomposed to earth, could contrive to hold on, continually sug
gested the presence of snow, which suggestion, with difficulty refuted,
was at once renewed. And, looking up the valley, we saw just such
mountain precipices, barely separated by intervening water-courses of in
considerable depth, and only receding sufficiently to make room for a very
narrow meadow, inclosing the river, to the furthest limit of vision.
ENTERING RIDE UP THE VALLEY.
Our road up the Valley to the hotels, for the most part, lies
among giant pines, or tirs, and cedars, from one hundred and
seventy -five to two hundred and twenty feet in height, and beneath
the refreshing shade of outspreading oaks. Not a sound breaks
the irapressive stillness that reigns, save the occasional chirping
and singing of birds, or the low, distant sighing of the water-falls,
or the breeze in the tops of the trees. Crystal strearas occasion
ally gurgle and ripple across our path, whose sides are fringed
with willows and wild flowers that are alraost ever blossoming,
and grass that is ever green. On either side of us stand almost
perpendicular cliffs, to the height of nearly thirty-five hundred
feet; on whose rugged faces, or in their uneven tops and sides,
here and there a stunted pine struggles to live ; and every crag
.seems crowned with sorae .shrub or tree. The bright sheen of the
river occasionally glistens among the dense foliage of the long
vistas that continually open before us. At every step, some new
picture of great beauty presents itself, and sorae new shapes and
shadows from trees and mountains, form new combinations of
light and shade, in this great kaleidoscope of nature; and as we
ride along, in addition to the Bridal Veil Fall and El Capitan, we
pass the Ribbon Fall, Cathedral Spires, the Three Brothers, and
22

338 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
the Sentinel ; while in the distance glirapses are obtained of the
Yo Seraite Fall, Indian Canon, North Dome, Royal Arches,
Washington Tower, Cloud's Rest, and the Half, or South Dome;
all of which expressively suggest the treat there is in store for us,
when we can examine them in detail, and enjoy a nearer and more
satisfying view of their raatchless wonders.
Now, notwithstanding the raany objects of interest we have
passed, one thought has probably obtruded itself, and it is this,
"Shall we ever corae up to this or that mountain?" and the
length of time consumed in the atterapt would seem to give back
the nonchalant and unfeeling answer, " Never! " There is, how
ever, no greater proof of the unrealized altitudes of these mount
ain walls than this — the time it takes to come up with or to pass
them. But amidst all these we can possibly hear one ejaculation
that seeras to contain raore real satisfaction in it than any amount
of sight-seeing just now. It is this: " Thank goodness, here is the
hotel ! " Commending ourselves to its most generous hospitalities,,
we wish our traveling companions a temporary good-by, and
prepare for the repast that awaits us.
Our creature comforts having supposably been well cared for
at one or other of the hotels, it is natural to infer that the journey,
having been more or less fatiguing, has prepared us for a sweet
and refreshing sleep ; yet experience may prove that the excitement.
attending our glorious surroundings has cast over us a stronger
spell even than that of Morpheus, and charraed us into wakeful
ness, that we raay listen to the splashing, dashing, washing, roar
ing, surging, hissing, seething sound of the great Yo Semite Falls,
just opposite; or has beguiled us into passing quietly out of our
resting-place, to look up between the lofty pines and outspreading
oaks to the granite cliffs, that tower up with such majesty of form
and boldness of outline against the vast ethereal vault of heaven ;
or to watch, in the moonlight, the ever-changing shapes and
shadows of the water, as it leaps the cloud-draped sumrait of the
mountain, and falls in gusty torrents on the unyielding granite,
to be dashed to an infinity of atoms. Then, when prudential rea-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 339
sons have wooed us back again to our couch, we may even there
have visions of some tutelary spirit of immense proportions, who,
in the e.xercise of his benignant functions, has vouchsafed to us
his protecting genius, and admonished the water-fall to modulate
the depth and height of its tones soraewhat, so that we can sleep
and be refreshed, and thus become the better prepared to quaff
the delicious draught from this perennial fountain, that only
awaits our waking to satisfy all our longings.
There is a possibility, however, that for some time before we
are prepared to sing,
" Hail! smiling morn, that tips the hills with gold,"
The sun (hours in advance of a good honest look upon us, perhaps,
deep down as we are in this awful gorge) may have been up, and
painting the rosiest of tints upon the surrounding domes and crags ;
burnishing up their ridges ; gilding trees with bright effects ; etch
ing lights and shadows in the time- worked furrows of the mount-
aui's face, as though he took especial pride in bringing out,
strongly, the wrinkles which the president of the hour-glass and
scythe has been busily engaged upon for so many thousands of
years. A SUGGESTION WORTH ADOPTING.
And while we are looking admiringly upon them, please per
rait rae to hazard a suggestion that is born of the experience and
teachings of a quarter of a century at Yo Seraite. It is this: If
it is araong the possibilities (and there raay exist such a possibility
when the subject is well weighed), no matter how tempting the
surrounding influences may be — and there is alraost sure to be
sorae restless, impetuous, and irrepressible spirit in nearly every
party — if you would make your visit healthful, restful, and
thoroughly enjoyable, and an ever-present pleasing after-thought,
do not attmnpt any very fatiguing excursion the first day after
arrival. Devote it to day-dreaming and to rest; not absolutely,
perhaps, inasmuch as a modicum of exercise is really better, in a
majority of cases, than total inaction; but let it be an easy jaunt
among some of the attractive scenes not very far from the hotel.

340 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Before satisfying our expectant curiositj', or gratifying a
love for the sublirae and beautiful through a closer coraraunion
with the marvelous grandeur which surrounds us, permit me to
explain what this great Valley is, how it was possibly formed,
and the various natural phenomena connected with it; as these
may forra interesting theraes for reflection and conjecture, while
we are wandering about among its wonderful scenes.
WHAT THE YO SEMITE VALLEY IS.
It is a deep, almost vertical-walled chasra, in the heart of the
Sierra Nevada Mountains — here about seventy ndles in breadth —
about one hundred and fifty miles due east of San Francisco, and
thirty from the main crest of the chain. Its sides are built of a
beautiful pearl-gray granite of many shades and colors, and are in
an infinite variety of forms. These are from three thousand three
hundred to six thousand feet in perpendicular height above their
base. Over these vertical walls vault numerous water-falls, that
make a clear leap of from three hundred and fifty to two thousand
feet; besides numerous bounding cascades.
The altitude of the floor of the Valley is nearly four thousand
feet above the level of the sea, and the measurements given. of the
surrounding cliffs and water-falls are mostly from this basis. Its
total area within the encorapassing walls, according to the report
of the Coramissioner of the General Land Office, Washington,
D. C, comprises eight thousand four hundred and eighty acres,
three thousand one hundred and nine of which are raeadow land.
The entire grant to the State, however, embraces thirty-six thou
sand one hundred and eleven acres, and includes one raile beyond
the edge of the precipices throughout their entire circuraference.
The Valley proper is about seven miles in length, by from three-
quarters to one and a half miles in width ; yet the distance between
the face of the clift' at the Yo Semite Fall and the .Sentinel, ac
cording to the raeasureraents of Prof. J. D. Whitney, is two and
a half miles. The Merced River, a beautifully transparent stream,
full of delicious trout, runs through it, with an average width of

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

341

SCENE ON THE RIVER.

one hundred feet, and whose banks are ornamented with azaleas
and syringas, and overarched with balm of gileads, alders, black
oaks, pines, cedars, and silver firs. This has numerous tributaries,
which, after leaping the cliffs, join it in its general course down
the Valley. The general trend of the Valley is northeasterly and south-
westwardly, a fortunate circumstance indeed, inasmuch as the de
lightfully bracing northwesterly trade-winds, which sweep the
Pacific Ocean in this latitude during suraraer, course pleasantly
through it, and keep it exceedingly teraperate on the hottest of
days ; so that there is no sultry oppressiveness of atmosphere felt
here, as soraetiraes at the East. Besides this, the sun is afforded
the opportunity of looking into the Valley from before six o'clock

342 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
in the morning until nearly five in the afternoon, duruig sumraer,
instead of only an hour or two at raost, had its bearings been
transver.sely to this. In the short days of winter, however, as the
hotels and other buildings are for the most part approxiraately
nearest to the southern wall of the Valley, when Apollo goes
farthest on his southern rarables, he looks down upon them over
the mountain about half past one in the afternoon, and vanishes
at half past three ; thus deigning to show his cheerful face only
about two hours out of the twenty-four ; so that the hotel side of
the Valley, so to speak, is mapped in mountain shadow, while the
opposite or northern side is flooded with brightness
THEORIES ABOUT ITS FORMATION.
Prof. J. D. Whitney, for many j'ears State Geologist, thus
expresses his views :* —
Most of the great cafions and valleys of the Sierra Nevada have re
sulted from aqueous denudation, and in no part of the world has this kind .
of work been done on a larger scale. The long-continued action of tre
mendous torrents of water, rushing with impetuous velocity down the
slopes of the mountains, has excavated those immense gorges by which
the chain of the Sierra Nevada is furrowed, on its western slope, to the
depth of thousands of feet.
The eroded canons of the Sierra, t however, whose formation is due to
the action of water, never have vertical walls, nor do their sides present
the peculiar angular forms which are seen in the Yosemite, as, for instanccj
in El Capitan, where two perpendicular surfaces of smooth granite, more
than three thousand feet high, meet each other at a right angle. It is
sufficient to look for a moment at the vertical faces of El Capitan and the
Bridal Veil Rock, turned down the Valley, or away from the direction in
which the eroding forces must have acted, to be able to say that aqueous
erosion could not have been the agent employed to do any such work.
The squarely cut re-entering angles, like those below El Capitan, and
between Cathedral Rock and the Sentinel, or in the Illilouette Caiion,
were never produced by ordinary erosion. Much less could any such cause
be called into account for the peculiar formation of the Half Dome, the
*The Yosemite Guide Book, page 81.
tIbid., pages 82, 83, 8o.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 343
vertical portion of whicli is all above the ordinary level of the Valley, ris
ing two thousand feet, in sublime isolation, above any point which could
have been reached by denuding agencies, even supposing the current of
water to have filled the whole Valley. 
In short, we are led irresistibly to the adoption of a theory of the
origin of the Yosemite in a way which has hardly yet been recognized as
one of those in which valleys may be formed, probably for the reason that
there are so few cases in which such an event can be absolutely proved to
have occurred. We conceive that, during the process of upheaval of the
Sierra, or, possibly, at some time after that had taken place, there was at
the Yosemite a subsidence of a limited area, marked by lines of "fault"
or fissures crossing each other somewhat nearly at right angles. In other
and more simple language, the bottom of the Valley sunk down to an un
known depth, owing to its support being withdrawn from beneath.*
The late Prof. Benjamin Silliman, of Yale College, thought that it
was caused through some great volcanic convulsion by which the mount
ains were reft asunder, and a fissure formed.
Now although I entertain the deepest respect for both those
gentlemen, and their views, I am unable to concur in their opinions,
for the following reasons: The natural cleavage of the granite
walls is not, for the most part, vei-tical, but at an acute angle of
from seventy to eighty -five degrees, as at Glacier Point and the
Royal Arches ; and that of the Yo Seraite Fall is not by any means
vertical, to say nothing of the intermediate shoulders between
such points as Eagle Tower and the Three Brothers. And al
though the northern and western sides of El Capitan are more
than vertical, as they overhang over one hundred feet, the abut
ting angle of that marvelous mountain is at an angle of say eighty
degrees; while its eastern spur consists of glacier-rounded ridges
that project far into the Valley. With this uniforra angle of
cleavage how could the bottom of the Valle)' sink down, any more
than the key-stone of an arch? unless by the displaceraent of its
supporting base ; and, to concede this possibility, is to admit the
theory of Professor Silliraan of the violent rending of the mount
ains asunder by volcanic co-action, which, in my judgment, is un
supported by convincing data.
*The italics are my own to emphasize the substance of Professor Whitney's

344 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
To admit this contingency, moreover, is to pre-suppose the
entire uplifting and rending of a large proportion of the solid
'granite forming the great chain of the High Sierra; and then of
its having left only this particular fissure to mark the co-action
that then took place — a possible but not probable result. It is even
more than improbable, from the fact that the solidified granite
crossing every one of its side canons, even near to the Valley, is
everywhere completely and visibly intact, so that there is not the
slightest semblance of any disjunction whatsoever. To ray con
victions, therefore, the evidences that the Yo Semite Valley was
ever formed by either subsidence, or volcanic rending, are not
only unsatisfactory, but are entirely absent.
Nor is it altogether clear why Professor Whitney, after giv
ing his emphatic opinion that " the long-continued action of
treraendous torrents of water, rushing with irapetuous velocity
down the slopes of the raountains, has excavated those immense
gorges by which the chain of the Sierra Nevada is furrowed, on
its western slope, to the depth of thousands of feet," should make
the Yo Semite Valley an exception; especially when the premises
are so abundantly clear that it was created by precisely similar
agencies as those of other canons — that of erosion. To illustrate
this, let me call attention to some interstices in the face of a jut
ting spur of the southern wall of the Valley, about midway be
tween the Sentinel and Cathedral Spires (see engraving), known as
THE FISSURES.
One of these is several hundred feet in depth, and yet not
over three and a half feet across it. But for its rounding edges
one could stand upon its top, look into its raysterious depths, and
then step across it to the other side. There can exist no doubt that
this has been forraed frora a soft stratura of granite, just the
width of the fi.ssure; and as there is not the sraallest stream of
water running through it (except when it rains), as the elements
have disintegrated the demulcent rock, every storra of wind, or
rain, or snow, has kept constantly reraoving the friable particles
and left only the hard walls standing.

fhoto. by 8. C. Waiter.

THE FISSURE.

Peu drawmg by Mrs. JtSiudb.

346 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Making this a basis of conclusions, is it not reasonable to
suppose that there once existed similar strata where the Valley
now is, and that as the disintegrating agencies completed their
work upon it, the denuding torrents of the Sierra swept over or
through it, and carried off the disintegrated material to build the
plains and valleys below? Stand upon any of the bridges which
now span the Merced River, during high water, and the floating
silica with which it is laden will be conclusive evidence that the
sarae forces, on a coraparatively limited scale, are still actively
going on. ITS FORMATION ASSISTED BY GLACIER ACTION.
Nor has water, in its liquefied form at least, been the only
potential agency for cutting down and hewing out chasms like
this araong the High Sierra, inasmuch as its polished valley fioors,
burnished mountain-sides and tops, and vast moraines, many
thousands of feet in altitude above the Valley, prove, beyond per
adventure or question, that glaciers of immense thickness once
covered all this vast area ; filling every gorge, roofing every dome,
and overspreading every mountain ridge with ice; the trend of
whose striations is unmistakably towards the channel of the Mer
ced River, raainly through its tributaries. As the Yo Semite
Valley is but four thousand feet above sea level, and these glacial
writings are distinctly traceable not only on the walls of the Valley
and the cliffs above it, but nearly to the summits of the highest
mountains east of it (here over thirteen thousand feet in altitude)
there can be but little doubt that a vast field of ice had pre-exist-
ence at Yo Semite that was over a mile and a half in absolute
thickness and depth! Who, then, can even conceive, much less
estimate, the Cyclopean force, and erosive power, of such a glacier?
It would seem that plowing into soft rock, tearing away of pro
jections, loosening seamy blocks, detaching jutting precipices,
grinding off ridges, scooping out hollows for future lakes, and
forcing everything movable before it, would be a mere frolicsome
pastime to so irresistible and mighty a giant. And, when that
pastime has been indulged in for countless ages, its results raay
be imagined, but cannot be coraprehended.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 347
This, then, in ray judgraent, has been no insignificant factor
in broadening and deepening the chasm first cut here, as elsewhere,
by water ; and indicating, if not proving, that the Yo Semite
Valley %ua,s formed by erosion, and not by volcanic action.
UNCERTAIN TIME OF THE GLACIAL PERIOD.
In a personal conference with Prof. Wm. H. Brewer, for
merly first assistant of the State Geological Survey of California,
now of Yale College, New Haven, Connecticut, the question was
asked him, "In about what age of the world was the glacial
period supposed to have existed? " and the answer was, " This has
not been positively agreed upon by scientists, as some think it
was about twenty or thirty thousand years ago, others from fifty
to eighty thousand, and some contend that nearly one hundred
and fifty thousand years have elapsed since that tirae, and it may
have been even more." As something will be said about this, and
about the moraines of the High Sierra when we take our mount
ain jaunts beyond the Yo Semite, further present mention will be
Unnecessary. NATURAL PHENOMENA.
The thermometer seldom reads higher than eighty-six degrees
in sumraer, or lower than sixteen degrees in winter, although it
has been ninety-five degrees (and even then the heat was not op
pressive, owing to the rarefaction of the atraosphere), and nearly
to zero — never below it. The usual ice-harvesting season is frora
December loth to 25th, when the days are clear, and the temper
ature at night ranges from sixteen to twenty -five degrees; at
which time ice forms from six to eleven inches in thickness, and
is then taken frora the sheltered eddies of the river. A good
quality of ice is seldora obtainable after the rains and snows of
winter have fairly set in.
The first fall rain generally occurs about the tirae of the
autumnal equinox, in September; but does not contin ue more than
a day or two ; when it usually clears up and continues fine for
several weeks. It is after this rain that the first frost generally

348 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
pays its timely visit, and commences to paint the deciduous trees
and shrubs in the brightest of autumnal colors. Early in No
vember the first snow generally begins to fall, when it will
probably not deposit more than a few inches in the Valley, but
prove more liberal in the mountains, where it sometimes will leave
fifteen or twenty inches. It was in one of these storms that Lady
Avonmore, better know as the Hon. Theresa Yelverton, was caught,
alone, and being lost and benighted, came near losing her life.
A few days thereafter the delightfully balmy Indian summer
weather sets in, and continues to near the end of Deceraber ; when
old Winter, he with the hoary locks and unfeeling heart, swoops
down in good earnest ; and, turning his frosty key, keeps the in
habitants of Yo Semite — generally about forty in nuraber — close
prisoners until the benignant srailes of the gentle angel. Spring,
unlocks the snowy doors, and again sets them free.
The pluvial downpour of an average winter in Yo Seraite is
usually frora twenty to thirty -three inches, and of snow from nine
to seventeen feet. It must not, however, be supposed that this
falls all at pnce, or that it ever aggregates so great a depth, as it
keeps melting and settling more or less all the tirae ; so that I have
never known it to exceed an average depth over the Valley of
raore than five and a half feet. Snow possesses the wonderful
quality of keeping the temperature of anything upon which it
falls, about the same as it finds it ; so that if the ground which
it covers is warra, it is kept in that condition, and the snow melts
rapidly from beneath; but, should the earth be frozen, it retains
that temperature, and liquefies mostly from above.
IMPROVED PROVISIONS FOR REACHING SCENIC STANDPOINTS.
To enable visitors to see every point of interest to the great
est advantage, the State, through its Board of Yo Semite Com
missioners, has constructed a most excellent carriage road through
out the entire circumference of the Valley ; and which, including
that to Mirror Lake and the Cascade Falls, opens up a drive of

THE r# SEMITE VALLEY. 349
over twenty -one miles, that has not its equal in scenic grandeur
and beauty anywhere else on earth.
In addition to this, broad, safe, and well-built trails for
horseback riding have been raade up the canon of the Merced
River to the Vernal and Nevada Falls, over old moraines, to the
summit of Cloud's Rest and to the foot of Half Dome, up the
mountain-sides to Union Point, Glacier Point, and Sentinel Dome,
to Columbia Rock, the foot and top of the upper Yo Seraite Fall,
and Eagle Peak, so that irapressive views raay be enjoyed of these
by an actual visit to and araong thera. Earlier enterprises of
this kind were inaugurated by private individuals, and tolls col
lected for passing over them; but they were all subsequently pur
chased by the State and raade free. To each and all of which
it is proposed to make excursions in due season ; so that when the
traveler has journeyed so far to witness these glorious scenes, noth
ing of importance may be omitted, that could in any measure tend
to insure their being visited understandingly, and as intelligently
as possible. As there are frequently moments of leisure that visitors desire
to utilize, besides having wants that need to be supplied, perhaps
it may be as well here, as elsewhere, to enumerate the various
interests represented in the little settlement of Yo Seraite. Of
course the first to be mentioned are the
THREE HOTELS AND THEIR LANDLORDS.
Four when the new one now building is completed. These are
kept by Mr. J. K. Barnard, Mr. J. J. Cook, and Mr. and Mrs. G.
F. Leidig, each of which is generally called after the name of its
proprietor; as, "Barnard's," "Cook's," and "Leidig's." The lat
ter is the first reached. Cook's the next, and Barnard's is the
farthest up the Valley, near to the iron bridge. The latter can
accommodate about one hundred guests ; Mr. Cook, about seventy-
five; Mr. Leidig, forty; and the new hotel is sufficiently corarao
dious to take care of one hundred and fifty. All of these are
comfortable, and the prices charged are reasonable, especially

350 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
considering their distance from market, and the shortness of the
business season.
sinning's FINE YO SEMITE WOOD CABINET SHOP.
When you are within this room, and your eye falls upon any
one of the creations of his genius, you can ,see at a glance that
Mr. Sinning has the rare gift of uniting the taste of the artist
with the skill of the workraan. His choice specimens of various
woods, found in this vicinity, most admirably joined, and beauti-
fulljr polished, are so arranged that one colored wood is made
compliraentary to that of the other adjoining it. They are simply
perfect, both in arrangement and mechanical execution. Then,
it gives hira such real pleasure to show you, and explain all about
his work, that his eyes, seen through a single pair of glasses,
actually double in brightness when you admire it. Nor need you
be afraid of offending him if you do not purchase, as he readily
sells all that he can make, notwithstanding he is at his bench on
every working day, both winter and summer, raaking and fin
ishing the most beautiful of ladies' cabinets, glove-boxes, etc., etc.
ART STUDIOS.
Of these, there are two, Mr. Thomas Hill's, and that of Mr.
Charles D. Robinson; the former is near Cook's Hotel, and the
latter adjoins the Guardian's ofiice. The moment that either
studio is entered, the works of each pleasantly irapress visitors
with their unquestioned excellence and faithfulness to nature.
And while every true artist is in thought and feeling raore or less
a poet, and theso ethereal essences are noticeably present in, and
breathe through every line and color of his touch, there is frequently
as wide a difference in their treatment of the subject, as there is
between the poetry of Shakespeare and that of Tennyson. And
it is well that it is so, for in art, as in food, it is the rich variety
that raakes pleasing provision for all. The thought-coloring of
Mr. Hill may differ widely from that of Mr. Robinson, and it
does ; but in that very difference lies the secret of the measurable
success of both. The beautiful creations of either will worthily

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 351
occupy any picture gallery, or drawing-roora on earth, should
visitors desire to live these scenes over again when within their
own far-off horaes, by leaving with Mr. Hill, or Mr. Robinson,
their orders for pictures. PHOTOGRAPHIC.
Of course photographs have becorae one of the popular lux
uries of the age, and there is scarcely an intelligent visitor that
enters the Valley, who does not wish to carry horae, for himself
or friends, some souvenir of his visit; and to renew pleasant
raemories of its marvelous scenes. To supply this want there are
two galleries established ; one, conducted by Mr. Geo. Fiske — to
whom I am largely indebted for so many of the beautiful illustra
tions that appear in this book — -who, as a man, a gentleman,
and an artist, is in every way worthy of the most liberal patron
age than can be extended to him ; and the other is kept by Mr.
G. Fagersteen, who, while being devoted to his art, is among the
best residents of Yo Semite, and who, like Mr. Fiske, takes groups
of visitors which embody the views around, as a background to
the picture. There are also two other places where photographic
views of the surrounding scenery are sold, Mr. J. J. Cook's, and
atthe Big Tree Room, Barnard's; the forraer having Taber's, and
the latter Fiske's. THE STORE
For general raerchandise is kept by Mr. Angelo Cavagnaro,
an Italian; and who, you will find, bason hand alraost any article
that may be desired, from a box of paper collars to a side of bacon ;
and probably many others that neither you nor any one else may
want. MRS. glynn's.
Mrs. Glynn is an industrious woman, who, finding it impos
sible to breathe the air of a lower altitude, has prolonged her useful
life by making choice of Yo Semite as a home ; and, being a good
cook, ekes out a frugal living by selling bread, pies, and such
things, to transient customers; and by keeping two or three
boarders.

352 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
LIVERY STABLES, CARRIAGES, AND SADDLE HORSES.
These are kept by Messrs. Wra. F. Coffraan and Geo. Kenney,
two wide-awake, square men, who wait upon guests at the hotel
every evening to learn their wishes concerning the rides around
the Valley in carriages, or up the mountains on horses, for the
next day. When they present themselves, it will be well for
visitors to have considered their plans for the morrow, and give to
them their order accordingly ; as, by so doing, all delays, and many
annoyances, are avoided in the raorning. The charges for saddle-
horses and carriages are deterrained by the Board of Corarais
sioners. Should any irregularit}' of any kind occur it should be
proraptly reported to the Guardian. Additional to the gentlemen
above mentioned, Mr. Galen Clark (one of the oldest pioneers of
this section, and who for sixteen years was the Valley's Guardian)
has also the privilege of conveying passengers in his carriage to
every point of interest around Yo Seraite. He will be found
intelligent, obliging, and efficient in everything he undertakes.
THE GUIDES.
Of course when any one wishes to witness the scenic grand
eur visible from the raountain-tops which surround the Valley, he
is at liberty to elect whether these trips shall be taken on horse
back or afoot. If on foot, he avoids all care and expense for either
hiraself or his horse ; but finds it very fatiguing. If on horseback,
a guide is needed, not only to explain the different objects of inter
est to be found, but to look out for the safety and comfort of
those in his care ; and to insure these, saddles have to be carefully
watched, and adjusted, on all mountain trails. These form im
portant parts of a guide's duty. The day's expense for a guide
(which includes his horse, board, and wages) is $3.00, divided
between the different members of the party. For instance, to a
party of six — and none should be larger than this if a guide is
expected to do his full duty by it — the pro rata for each person
would be fifty cents for his day's service.
To raention even the naraes of the raany whose kindly at-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 353
tentions and really valuable services as guides, have been raore or
less before the Yo Seraite visiting public for the last twenty-five
years, would make many a visitor's heart warra with grateful
emotion; and to recall to memory the faces, and with them the
obliging acts and excellent qualities of those who were thus per
sonally useful to thera, in the " long, long ago." Many of these
could be given, but the restraining fear that a treacherous meraory
raight cause some to be omitted, that were equally worthy of a
place, is suggestive of possible yet unintentional injustice, that
is sufficiently strong to teinpt me to forego the record altogether.
Still, there is one ol the preseut guides whose peculiar char
acteristics, singular ways, and husky voice, make him " the ob
served of all observers," who.se narae is Nathan B. Phillips, but
who is better known to all the world as' " Pike." Being among
the oldest and longest in the service of any now acting in the
capacity of guide, permit me to introduce him : —
Ic, when you present this letter of introduction, he should not
recognize the fact that you are addressing him by his own name,
you have only to add the proud cognomen of " Pike," to convince
him' that, for the moraent at least, he was a little absent-minded!
Now when Pike is himself (as once in a while he gets " socially"
inclined) no better guide ever took care of a party; as he is polite,
studiously attentive without seeraing so, patient, thoughtful, care
ful ; and there is not a peak or gorge, valley or canon, in the whole
range of the High Sierra, within view, that is not " as farailar to
him as household words." Besides, he can trail a bear, track a
deer, bag a grouse, and work off' agonizing rausic from a violin
with the best. I do not say that there are not otheis equally
good, as either hunter, guide, or violinist, for that would not be
true; and would, moreover, be begging the question. T never saw
him angry but once, and that was when a raiserable wretch,
sometiraes inappropriately called a man, was abusing a horse.
Then, in language, he "made the fur fly;" and I said. Amen!
Once he was asked by a lady how the huskiness of his voice was
brought about. "Ah," he good-naturedly responded, " telling s&
23

354

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

MK. NATHAN B. PHILLIPS.
many 'whoppers' to tourists, I expect!" Pike is a Yo Semite
character, and one worth meeting.
BUTCHER, AND BLACKSMITH'S SHOPS.
When meal-times come we should feel it a great omission had
the forraer been overlooked ; and when traveling on our own horse
tells us he has lost his shoe, or in our own conveyance we find
that a spring has broken, a bolt is gone, or a nut lost, how gladly
we welcome the blacksmith and his shop. Both of these are
found in Yo Semite.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 355
HARRIS'.
This is near the camp-ground set apart by the Board of
Commissioners for the accommodation of those who leave the
scorching plains below for the respite and comfort of recuperation
in such a charming spot as Yo Semite, and corae in their own
conveyances ; generally bringing their own tents and supplies with
them, and carap out. As Mr. A. Harris grows and keeps an
abundant supply of fodder, besides stabling for animals, his place
is deservedly popular with caraping parties. Milk, eggs, and
other farm products are obtainable here; and, should the bread
burn at the camp-fire, and the yeast become .sour, Mrs. Harris has
a,lways the remedy on hand to help strangers out of their diffi
culty, and that most cheerfully. Then, next to the Leidig's, the
Harris' have the largest family in the Valley ; both being a source
of pleasurable pride to the parents. Speaking of children, it
must not be forgotten that there is here
THE PUBLIC SCHOOL.
It is situated on the raargin of a sraall meadow just above
Barnard's; with the North Dome, Royal Arches, Washington
Tower, and Half Dome, lifting their exalted proportions heaven
ward, just in front of the school -house door. Then there is
THE YO SEMITE CHAPEL.
This neat little edifice, devoted to the worship of God amid
the marvelous creations of His hand, was built by the California
State Sunday School Association, in the suramer of 1879 ; partly
by subscriptions frora the children, but mainly from the voluntary
contributions of prominent members of the Association. Mr.
Charles Geddes, a leading architect of San Francisco, raade and
presented the plans; and Mr. E. Thorason, also of San Francisco,
erected the building, at a cost Oi between three and four thousand
dollars. It will seat an audience of about two hundred and fifty.
Mr. H. D. Bacon, of Oakland, gave the bell; and when its first
notes rung out upon the raoon-silvered air, on the evening of dedi-

356

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

THK yo SEMITE CHAPEL.

cation, it was the first sound of "the church-going bell" ever
heard in Yo Semite. Let us hope that it will assist to
" King out the false, ring in the true,
Ring in the valiant man and free,
The larger heart, the kindlier hand;
Ring out the darkness of the land,
Ring in the Christ that is to be. "*
Miss Mary Porter, of Philadelphia, donated the organ, in
memori..ira of Miss Florence Hutchings, the first white child born
•Tennyson's Hing Out, Wild Bells.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 337
in Yo Semite, who passed through the Beautiful Gate, Septeraber
20, 1881 (as recorded on pages 145, 146), to whora she had become
devoteilly attached while visiting the Valley the preceding year.
The Yo Semite Chapel is for the free use of Christians of
every denomination. THE GUARDIAN
Is a State officer, appointed by the Board of Commissioners, for
the purpose of watching over the best interest of the Valley, and
superintending the local details connected with its manageraent,
under the Board. To him, therefore, all irregularities of every
kind should be promptly reported, to insure their abatement.
From hira, raoreover, can be obtained inforraation, not only con
cerning the rules and legulations adopted by the Board of Com
missioners, for the manageraent of the Valley in the interests of
the public ; but the best places to carap, the points most noteworthy
to see, and the best time and manner of seeing them ; with answers
to every reasonable question intelligent persons may ask concern
ing this wonderful spot. In .short he will, to the best of his ability,
be the living embodiment of a cyclopedia of Yo Semite ; and that
politely, cheerily, and pleasantly. The present Guardian of the
Valley is Mr. Walter E. Dennison, to whom all communications
concerning it should be addressed. His office is on the south bank
of the Merced River, near the upper iron bridge.
WELLS, FARGO & CO 'S EXPRESS, AND THE POST-OFFICE.
Both of these invaluable institutions, of especial interest to
the traveling public, as well as residents, have been established at
Yo Semite. The former opens and closes with the business sea
son, but the latter maintains connections with the outside world
all the year — in summer, daily, and in winter, by a semi-weekly
mail. Notwithstanding the unquestioned efficiency of Wells,
Fargo & Co.'s Express for the conveyance of valuable packages,
Yo Semite should be raade a " Money-order Office " of the postal
service, as the wants of tourist visitors, as well as residents, would
be rauch subserved thereby.

sas IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Before the establishment of a postal route to, and post-office
at Yo Seraite, all letters and papers were carried thither by private
hands ; but the late U. S. Senator Howe, of Wisconsin, afterwards
Postmaster-General of the United States, secured this great boon
for the Valley. Through him the writer became its first post
master, at the enormously extravagant salary of $12.00 per
annum, besides perquisites of uncalled-for old papers and quack
advertisements ! But as there was then no winter service, and he
soraetiraes paid his Indian raail carrier ten dollais for a single
winter trip, besides board and old clothes for trudging through
and over snow, in the dead of winter, without .snow-shoes, to bring
in the precious missives ; strange as it may seera, it was not deeraed
a sufficient sinecure to incite and tempt the envious longings of
needy politicians for its possession !
TELEGRAPHIC CONNECTIONS.
For many years the Valley was in telegraphic coraraunica
tion with the outside world, via Sonora and Groveland; but as it
was not sufficiently patronized after 1874 to pay for repairing the
line and running the office, in a few years thereafter it went un
repaired, and was consequently unused. In 1882, however, a ncM^
one wa,s constructed, by the Western Union Company, which
is still maintained, via Berenda, Grant's Sulphur Springs, and
Wawona to Yo Semite; so that now telegrams can be sent thence
to every nook and corner of civilization.
THE FOREST TREES OF YO SEMITE.
There are four different species of pine growing here: Two
"Yellow Pines," Pinus ponderosa, and P. Jeffreyi, with three
needles to each leaf; " Sugar Pine," P. Lambertiana, having five
needles to a leaf; and the "Tamarack Pine," P. contorta, with
only two to a leaf: "Red, or Ineense Cedar," Libocedrus decurrens. •
Three " Silver Firs," Abies concolor, A. grandis, and A. nobilis.
There is but one more of this genus found in the State, and
that one only in a single locality (the Santa Lucia Mountains,
Monterey County), but, owing to its l)eauty, and rarity, I am

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

359

THE SILVER FIB, Abies Bracteata, Santa Lucia Mountains.
tempted to introduce engravings of it here. All the cones of the
silver fir grow upwards, — not downwards, like the pines.
Of the coniferse, the next in importance, perhaps, is the "Red"
or "Douglas" Spruce, Psudo tsuga Douglasii. Then, in resem
blance of foliage, its single leaves sharp as a needle, and fruit like
a nutmeg, whence comes thename "California Nutmeg," Torreya
Californica. Then follows the " Black Oak," Quercus Kelloggii,
upon the acorns of which the Indians mainly depend for their
staple bread-stuff;* and a few of the " Quaking Aspen," Populu,s
*See Chapter on Indian manners and customs.

Drawn from nature by A. Kellogg. M. B
CONE OFTHE SILVER FIR, AUes Bracteata, Santa Lucia Mountains.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 361
tremuloides which came down from the mountains in the flood of
1867. The "Balm of Gilead" Poplar, Populus halsamiferu:
¦"Alder," Alnus viridis: "Rock," or " Oregon, Maple," Acer
macrophyllum: " California Laurel," Umbellularia Californica:
"Dogwood," Cornus Nuttallii, with its large white blossoms.
Then follows the raost beautiful of all the " Live Oaks," the
golden-cupped Quercus chrysolepis.
THE SHRUBBERY OF YO SEMITE.
The most attractive of all, on account of the bright green of
its leaves, its dwarf, bell-shaped, and waxy bunches of pinkish-
white blossoms, and the red olive-green of its smooth stems, the
bark of which peels off' annually, is the "Manzanita," Arctosta
phylos pungens. Next comes the " California Lilac," Ceanothus
integerrimus, whose large feathery plumes of white flowers, redo
lent with perfume, that become so inviting to both the eye and
nostril; with its bright sap-green bark: The "Azalea," Azalea
Occidentalis, the fragrant masses of whose pinkish-white or yel
lowish-white blossoras can be "scented from afar:" The "Spice
Plant," Calycanthus Occidentalis, that grows in such rich abun
dance on the way to Cascade Falls, and whose large deep-green
and pointed ovate leaves shine in striking contrast to its wine-
eolored flowers. Nor must we overlook the " Chokecherry," Pi u-
nus demissa, with its gracefully depending blossoms, and fruit so
valuable an edible to the natives; or the " Wild Coffee," Rhamnus
Californica, whose root-wood raakes such beautiful veneers.
These, with sorae few others, are the principal representatives of
the interesting shrubbery of the Valley.
THE FLOWERS OF YO SEMITE.
These are so numerous and so varied that but a few only can
here be mentioned. Perhaps the first clairaing attention, not only
for its graceful tulip-like cup, and richly colored butterfly wing-
formed petals, but from its ' being the flower after which this
county was named, " Mariposa," or " Butterfly Tulip," Calochor-
tus venustus: The " Penstemon," Penstemon Icetus, with its

362 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
bright purplish-blue flowers: "Pussy's Paws," Spraguea umbel-
lata, whose attractive, radiating bunches clothe even sandy places
with beauty; Hosaclcia crassifolia, with its singular clover-like
blossoras and vetch-like leaves, the young shoots of which form
such tender and delicious greens for the Indians; the "Evening
Primrose," (Enothera biennis, that brightens the meadows at
eventide with its golden eyes of glory, but which closes when the
sun looks too steadfastly into thera at midday; or its dark-
purplish rose-colored twin sister, the Godetia, that forsakes the
moist meadow land to grow on sandy slopes. But there is .such
a fascinating charm in these delicate creations that one raay be
easily terapted to linger too long in their delightful company.
THE FERNS OF YO SEMITE AND ITS SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS.
Mr. J. G. Lemraon, of Oakland, and his talented wife, who
have raade this interesting family a loving and special study, have
kindly sent me the following carefully prepared list of those
found here: —
Coraraon Polypody, Polypodium vulgare; California Poly
pody, P- Californicum; California Lip Fern, Cheilanthes C(di-
fornica; Graceful Lip Fern, C. gracillima; Many-leaved Lip Fern,
C. myriophylla; (Prof.) Brewer's Cliff-brake, Pellcea Breueri;
Heather-leaved Cliff-brake, Pellcea andromedcefolia; Wright's
Cliff-brake, Pellcea Wriyhtiana; Short- winged Cliff-brake, Pellcea
brachyptera; Bird-foot Cliff-brake, Pellcea ornitho])us; Dwarf
Cliff-brake, Pellcea densa; Bridges' Cliff-brake, Pellcea Bridgesii;
Rock-brake, Cryptogramme acrostichoides; Common bracken,
P teris aquilina, var. lanuginosa; Venus' hair, Adiantum
Capillus-veneris, California Maiden hair, Adiantum emar-
ginatum; Foot-stalked Maiden hair, Adiantum pedatum; Greek
Chain fern, Woodwardia radicans; Lady fern, Asplenium Filix-
fcemina, Alpine Beech fern, Phegopteris alpestris; Rough Shield
fern, Aspidium rigidum, .XH-r. argutum; Armed Shield fern,
Aspidium m,unitum; Naked Shield fern, Aspidium munitum,
var. nudatum. Over-lapped Shield fern, Aspidium munitum,,
var. imbricans; Sharp-leaved Shield fern, Aspidium aculeatum;

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 363
Sierra Shield fern, Aspidium aculeatum, var. scopulorum; Del
icate Cup fern, Cysiopteris fragilis; Hairy Woodsia, Woodsia-
scopulina; Oregon Woodsia, Woodsia Oreganu.
FERN ALLIES.
Siraple Grape fern, Botrychium simplex; Southern three-
parted Grape fern, Botrychium ternatum, var. australe; Virginia
Grape fern, Botrychium Virginianum; Coraraon Adder tongue,
Oiihioglossum vulgatum.
To those who are interested in this attractive family, the above
complete synopsis, which embraces every species and variety yet
found within and around the Valley, will be especially acceptable.
TROUT-FISHING.
' Are there trout in that pellucid and beautiful streara flow
ing past us? " inquned a soraewhat fancifully dressed young gen
tleman with a distingue air, equipped with the latest patented
fishing-rod, and a large book well filled with flies of the most
approved color and pattern.
"Yes, sir, speckled raountain trout. There are but two kinds
of fish found in this river, or in any of its tributaries, speckled
trout and sucker ; the forraer swira near the surface, ready to catch
the first fly that comes along, and the latter float near the bottom
of the stream, upon the lookout for worms, or offal of any kind that
may be drifting down. Trout, as you find, are a deliciour, table
fish; but no one, except Indians, will think of eating sucker."
" Is there any good place near here for a little sport of that
kind ? as I think I should like to try my hand at that sort of thing,
you know." "Oh! yes, almost anywhere; they are just where you can
see and find thera; but, if they should see you first you had better
move on to the next pool or riffle, as you would be wasting your
time there."
" Oh ! I thank you very much, as trout-fishing is such de
lightful sport, J'OU know."
Apparently full of ruminating anticipation, our hero of the

364

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

rod and line sauntered leisurely along, occasionally testing the
flexibility of his pole by whipping it after some imaginary trout,
until he disappeared behind a clump of young cottonwoods, to be
seen no more until dinner-time. But " when the evening shades
prevail "-ed, the would-be disciple of Isaac Walton could be seen
advancing slowly, and somewhat disconsolately, towards the hotel,
with one small, deluded trout dangling at the end of a twig.
Simultaneously, as if with mischievous " malice aforethought,"
an Indian walked briskly up with about as large a .string of trout
as he could conveniently carry. Now this was the additional
feather that broke the camel's back, and our crest-fallen friend
looked bewildered and dumbfounded. Placing his solitary eye
glass firraly in front of his left eye, he fixed the discorafited gaze
of that one eye (glass) alternately upon the Indian, and then upon
the successful " catch " thatwas hanging at the Indian's side; and
as soon as he could discover that he could find a voice, he falter-
ingly inquired, " What do you use for bait? " An artist friend

^"

,Na{tir?- versus- Af tT

rsus-Af

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 365
being present, made the accompanying graphic sketch of this
soul-harrowing scene.
The general absence here of what is terraed " good luck "
among anglers, has fabricated the trite aphorism among visitors
that, " It takes an Indian to catch trout at Yo Semite." And this
is in a great raeasure true; yet, it raust not be supposed that his
uniform success in the art is altogether attributable to his superior
skill. By no raeans. It is to be accredited raore to his knowl
edge of the haunts and habits of trout, which that wonderful
mother. Necessity, has persistently taught him frora childhood ; and
by which he learns where to find thera at the different seasons of
the year, and in the varying stages of water. This is an advan
tage that is unshared by the stranger. Then, the old proverb, that
"practice raakes perfect," has not a little to do with an Indian's
invariable success, especially as his bread and dinner depend
upon it. Adraitting, however, that skill and practice go hand
in hand with an Indian, to bring fish to his string, I have seen
white adepts in the art that could largely discount an Indian's
best efforts. The most matter-of-fact raanner of catching trout araong
unskilled and unpracticed anglers, is, to cover up the hook com
pletely with a good-sized worm, and then cause it to float gently
down to where he can see some suckers apparently resting on the
bottom of the stream; and, when he sees the tempting morsel
fairly in the mouth of his intended victira, to suddenly jerk in
the line. Thus captured the sucker is laid carefully away until
night-fall, when he is cut up into pieces about a quarter of an
inch in thickness and half an inch square ; and which, when placed
snugly on the hook, becorae an inviting bait to trout, which
it readily seizes, and is hiraself seized in turn, to supply breakfast
for the angler and his guests. Good fishing places, free frora roots
and sticks, and well stocked with trout, should be sought quietly
out in the day-tirae.
In early days the Indians fished only with the spear (in
which sorae were adepts), and with the worra ; but in these latter

366 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
days they avail themselves of the lessons taught them by the
whites, of using sucker as bait, and fishing at night; by which
they are enabled to bring such large strings of trout to the hotels,
for which they invariably receive twenty -five cents per pound.
As it is reasonably presumable that every one before starting
out upon any of the many interesting trips within and around
the Valley, will be desirous of ascertaining not only their partic-
nlar direction and location, but the distances thereto, the foUow
ing tables, and accompanying map, are herewith submitted.
BASIS OF MEASUREMENTS.
Before setting out upon any of our excursions around or be
yond the Valley, it seeras desirable to state that, according to
Lieutenant Wheeler's U. S Survey, from which much of the data
eoncerning altitudes here is taken, its elevation above sea level
as coraputed frora the floor of the upper iron bridge, near Bar-
nards, is three thousand nine hundred and thirty -four feet ; and
that all the measureraents of the cliffs and water-falls about the
Valley are calculated frora this basis, except where otherwise stated.
For the purpose of enabling visitors to make their respective
jaunts understandingly, I have thought it desirable to present the
various points of interest somewhat in detail, and in the order
they are generally preferred to be seen ; but which order can, of
course, be changed according to circumstances, or to individual
taste and preference. With the reader's perraission, therefore, we
will suppose that we are now prepared to set out upon our glorious
pilgrimage among the marvelous scenes which surround us, and
are standing upon the floor of the upper iron bridge, three
thousand nine hundred and thirty-four feet above sea level, and
looking into the transparent waters of
THE MERCED RIVER.
This musical and suggestive name was given to it by the
old Spanish padres, by whom it was called Rio de la Merced, the
River of Mercy. And, by the way, we are much indebted to the
poetical taste of those old missionaries for a number of apposite

TABLE OF DISTANCES,
From the Guardian's Office, near the Ufper Iron Bridge, to Different Points of
Interest in and Around Yo Semite VaUey, California.

POINTS OF INTEREST.

5-^

go si

3o

<;?" =
p "a.
rt o -•
¦ ^ (T
• 3 n

To Mirror Lake {by carriage road.)
Frotn Guardian's Office to —
Indian Cafion Bridge 
Harris' Residence 
Forks of Tis-sa-ack Avenue Road 
Mirror Lake 
If the return, is made via Tis-sa-ack Avenue ^ the
distances from Mirror Lake are —
Upper Forks of Tis-sa-ack Avenue Road 
Ten-ie-ya Creek Bridge 
Tii.-sa-ack Bridge 
Guardian's Office 
Tis-sa-ack Avenue Drive.
Front Guardian' s Office to —
Tis-sa-ack Bridge 
Ten-ie-ya Bridge 
Harris' Residence 
Guardian's Oflfice 
To Bridal Veil Fall, Artist Point, and New
Inspiration Point {by carriage road)—
From Guardian's Office to —
Cathedral Spires Bridge 
El Capitan (lower iron) Bridge 
Bridal Veil Fall 
Forks of Pohono Avenue Road 
Artist Point  
Cabin 
New Inspiration Point 
To tke Cascade Falls {by carriage road).
From Guardian's Ojffice to —
Forks of Big Oak Flat Road 
Black Springs 
River View 
Pohono Bridge 
Cascade Falls 
Tke Pokono Avenue Drive.
From Guardian's Office to —
Yo Semite Creek Bridge 
Rocky Point  ¦
Indian Camp 
Ribbon Fall 
Forks of Big Oak Flat Road 
Black Springs 
River View 
Pohono Bridge 
Fern Spring 
Moss Spring 
Forks of Big Tree Station Road 
Bridal Vtil Fall 

0.65
0.56 o 95
0-75

0.610.17

2.03
0.89 1.05

2.50 I -13
, 0.41o 28
1.48
0-43 0.96

3.66
0.690.19 1.29

o 49
0.960..37 2 17
o 07
o.6g
0.250.29o. 19
0.06 o 59
0.28

0.65 I .21
2.16 2.91

0.610.78 T.673-70

2.032.92397 5.18

2 50
3-63
4.044.32 5.80
6.23 7-19

3-66
4-354-544.337.67

0.49 1-45 1.82
3 99
4.064 75
5.005.295 48
5 54
6.136.41

2.91
2.26 1 .70
0.7s

3.703.092.942.03

5.183152 .26
1.21

7.19

4.69 3 56
315
2 87
1-39
0.96

7.67

4.01 3-32
313 2.84

9.969.00 8,63
6.46 6.39
5.70 5-455.16
4-974 91
4 32
4.04

800
1,000
1,500

4,108

4,6514,851 5,371

3 949

TABLE OF DISTANCES— Continued

POINTS OF INTEREST.

n n

3, O

¦ B'

HI
(T O M.
-. if-

El Capitan Bridge .
Cathedral Spires Bridge...,
Leidig's Hotel 
Cook's Hotel 
Cosmopolitan Billiard Hall
Barnard's Hotel 

Tke Round Drive on the Floor of ike Valley
From Guardian's Office, via M reed, Ten-ie-ya
Vo Semite, and Pohono Bridges, and back. .
Including Mirror Lake and Cascade Falls 
To Foot of Lower Vo Semite Falls.

From Guardian's Office to —
Yo Semite Creek Bridge . .
Foot of Fall.. 

To Top of Vo Sejuite Fall and Eagle Peak, by
Trail.

From Guardian s Office to —
Columbia Rock- 
Foot of Upper Yo Semite Fall 
Forks of Trail for Top of Yo Semite Fall .
Top of Vo Semite Fall 
Eagle Meadow 
Eagle Peak 

To Snow's Hotel, by Trail.
(Between the Vernal and Nevada Falls.)
From Guardian's Office to-
Opposite Merced Bridge 
Too-lool-a-we-ack (South Branch) Bridge 
Register Rock 
Snow's Hotel 
If the return is made via Glacier Point, the dis
tance from Snow's will be:
Bridge, above the Nevada Fall 
Glacier Point  
Guardian's Office  
To Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome, by Trail.
Frem Guardian's Office to—
Cook's Hotel 
Foot of Glacier Point Trail  
Union Point 
Glacier Point  
Sentinel Dome 
If the return is made via Snow**^ Hotel the dis
tances from Glacier Point are:
Bridge, above the Nevada Fall 
Snow's Hotel 
Guardian's Office 

o

¦41

1

¦13

1

¦43

o

¦3°

o

•73

o

.04

15

.06

21

32

O

49

O

41

I

08

o

69

I

21

o

45

I

3(=

o

90

2

02

O

60

O

62

T

39

O

82'

7

08

4

45

O

77

O

27

2

09

I

32

I

12

7

oB

o

82

4

63

6.827-95
9389. 68
10.4110.4s

o 49
0.90

2.673.88
4-336.59

2 62
3 24
4.63

7 90
12 35

0.77 1 .04
3 13
4 45
5 57

7.087.90
12.53

3.63= .5°
1.07
0.770.04

0.90
0.41

6 59
4 61
3 92
2.742.26
0.90 4.63

2 61
2.0I I 39

"¦35" 53
445

12.53 5 45
4 63 ,

1. 154
1 114

2.5503,818

1,366

2.356 3.257

,366

Photo-typo by Britton &• Key. S. F.

The Sentinel-Loyh-El Chpithn, hnd Vhlley,

Fkom Glacier Foin i Trail.
(See pages 467-8.)

TABLE OF DISTANCES— Continued.

POINTS OF INTEREST.

=.0

3*0

To Sutnmit of So.Mi Dome, by trail.

From Guardian's Office to —
Snow's Hotel 
Forks of Glacier Point Trail .
Forks of Cloud's Rest Trail. .
Anderson's Cabin 
Foot of Lower Dome 
Top of Lower Dome 
Top of South Dame 

To Sjimmit of Clouds Rest, by trail

From Guardian's Office to—
Snow's Hotel 
Forks ot South Dome Trail .
Hopkin's Meadow 
Summit of Cloud's Rest ....

To Soda Springs and Summit of Mt. Dana by
trail.
From Guardian's Office to —
Snow's Hotel 
Forks of Cloud's Rest Trail 
Top of Sunrisi Ridge 
Cathedral Mtadow Ridge 
Forks of Lake Ten-ie-ya Trail, Tuolumne Mead
ows  
Soda Springs  
Junction of Mt. Dana and Mt. Lyell Creeks. . .
Camping ground for Mt. Dana 
Saddle, between Mt. Gibbs and Mt. Dana 
Summit of Mt. Dana 

To Summit of Mt. Lyell, by trail.
From Guardian's Office to —
Soda Springs 
Forks of Mt. Dana Trail  
Head of Tuolumne Meadows 
Summit of Mt. Lyell 

To Soda Springs, via ike Eagle Peak and Lake
Ten-ie-ya Trail, by trail.
From Guardian's Office to —
Forks of Eagle Peak Trail 
Forks of Mono Trail 
Lake Ten-ie-ya 
Soda Springs 
Tj the Summit of tke Obelisk, or Mt. Clark, by
trail
From Guardian's Office to —
Glacier Point 
Too-loo-la-we-ack Creek 
Camping Ground 
Summit of Obelisk  .....

4-63

= .58
o to

4 63
3.40 1 .26

4.634-44 3.235.20
4 14
0.900.70 8.90 5.20 3 00

22.54 o 60
9-41 5.65

4.64 I 36
10.00 8.50

4-f3 5-458. 03
8.639 63
9 82
10.00

4.63 8 03
9.29
U.81

4.639.07
12.3017^50
21 .64
22.54 23 24
32.1437-3440.34

22.5423 14
32 55
38.20

7 00
2.25

4.646.00
16.00
24.50

4-456 57
13 57
15.82

5-37
4-55 I 97
I 37
° 37
o^i8

7.18
3 78
2 52

35^7i31 27
28.0422.84 18.7017.8017 10
8.203.00

38.20 15.6615.06 5-65

24.50 19.8618.50 8.50

15.82

11.37 9.25 2.25

1,366

3.5143.964
4.5304.953

1,366

4.339 5.921

1,366
5.648

4.7244.737 5.8497.7599.376

4.624 5.0989.340

7.4487,8988,404

8.273
9.885

5.3009,582

8,658 8,671
9.783
11.693

8.5589,032
13.274

3.2194,120

7.153 8.0548671

32576,179 7.414

7.19'
10,11311,378

370 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
names that embellish the California map; such, for instance, as
the Rio de Sacramento, the River of the Sacraraent; Rio de las
Plumas, the River of Feathers; Cuidad Los Angeles, the City
of the Angels, and many othei's. The view, easterly, reveals the
"Half Dome," fraraed by a vista of overarching pines, cedars,
oaks, and balra of gileads, that stand on the margin of the river ;
westerly the lofty, sky-piercing crest of " Eagle Peak " is seen
through a similar portal, about both of which more will be said
hereafter. COMPREHENSIVE PANORAMA FROM MEADOW AVENUE.
When about midway of the avenue, which here crosses the
raeadow, directly in front of us, looking northerly, " Yo Semite
Point " stands boldly out, the apex of which is three thousand
two hundred and twenty feet above us, and the view from which,
looking down into the Valley, is very impressive. This, when
associated with the Giant's Thumb, is called- by the Indians,
" Hura-raoo," or the Lost Arrow, and connected with which is
the following characteristic LEGEND OF THE LOST ARROW.
Tee-hee-neh was araong the fairest and most beautiful of the
daughters of Ah-wah-ne. Her tall yet symmetrically rounded form
was as erect as the silver firs, and as supple as the tamarack pines.
The delicately tapering fingers of her small hand were, if possible,
prettier than those of other Indian maidens; and the arched instep
of her slender foot was as flexile as the azalea when shaken by
the wind. The tresses of her raven hair, unlike that of her com-
panion.s, were as silky as the railkweed's floss, and depended from
her well-poised head to her ankles. Her movements wei'e as
graceful and agile as the bound of a fawn. When she stepped
forth from her wigwam in the early morning, accorapanied by
other darasels of her tribe, tc seek the rairrored river and raake her
unpretentious toilet, there can be but little wonder that the admir
ing gaze of captivated young chiefs, and the envious looks of less
favored lassies, should follow her every footstep.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY 371
Then, knowing this, who could wonder at, or blame, the noble
Kos-soo-kah, — the tallest, strongest, swiftest-footed, bravest, and
most handsome in form and face, of all the young Ah-wah-ne
chiefs, — for allowing the silken meshes of devoted love to intertwine
around his heart, and bring hira a willing captive to her feet?
Or marvel that the early spring flowers which she plucked for
hira were always the most redolent with perfume? Or that tbe
wibl strawberries which she picked, and the wild plums that she
gathered, were ever the sweetest, because transfused by love?
Then, who could censure him for not resisting the silvery sweet
ness of her musical voice, when she raised it in .song by the evening
camp-fire ; or, for not withstanding the fascinations of her raerry
laugh, as its liL[uid cadences rung out at night-fall upon the air,
when every note was in delicious and accordant .sympathy with
the pulsations of his own glad heart?
And that which filled both their souls with an intense and
beatified joy was the consciousness that the tender passion was
unreservedly reciprocated by each. Nothing, therefore, reraained,
but to select becoming presents for the parents of the bride, in
accordance with Indian custom,* provide a sumptuous repast, and
celebrate their auspicious nuptials with appropriate ceremonies.
To do this, Tee-hee-neh and her companions would prepare the
acorn bread, collect ripe wild fruits and edible herbs in liberal
abundance, and garnish them with fragrant flowers ; while Kos-
soo-kah, pressing the best hunters of his tribe into his service,
should scale the adjacent cliffs for grouse, and deer, that right
royal might be the feast.
Before taking their fond and long-lingering adieus, it was
agreed that Kos-soo-kah, at sunset, should go to the edge of the
mountain north of Cholock,f and report the measure of his suc
cess to Tee-hee-neh (who was to clirab to its foot to receive it), by
fastening the requisite nuraber of grouse feathers to an arrow
thereby to indicate the quantity taken ; and from his strong bow
*See chapter on Indian manners, customs, etc.
+The Yo Semite Fall.

.S72 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
shoot it far out that she raight see it, and watch for its falling,
and thus be the first to report the good tidings of his success to
her people. After a raost fortunate hunt, while his young braves were
resting, preparatory to the exacting task of carrying down their
garae, Kos-soo-kah ¦ repaired to the point agreed upon, prepared
the arrow for its tender raission, and was about to send it forth,
when the edge of the cliff began to crurable away, carrying the
noble Kos-soo-kah with it.
Long did the loving Tee-hee-neh wait, and longingly watch
for the signal ; nor would she leave her watchful post for raany
weary hours after darkness had settled down upon the raountain,
although resistless preraonitions and forebodings were bringing a
deeper darkness to her heart, that were intensified by the sounds
of falling rock she had heard. But thinking, at last, that his
arabitious wishes raight have terapted him to wander farther than
he had intended, and finding that his signal-arrow could not be
seen in the darkness, at that very moment he raight be feeling
his uncertain way araong the blocks of rock that strewed the
Indian Caiion, down which he was to come; that possibility
gave wings to her thoughts, and speed to her tripping feet, as she
hurriedly picked her difficult waj' from ledge to ledge; passing
this precipice, lowering herself rapidly over that, where a misstep
must necessarily havc proven fatal, until at last she reached the
foot of the cliff.
Finding upon her advent there that her beloved Kos-soo-kah
had not yet arrived, her anxious yearnings for his safe return,
made raore poignant by a kind of uncontrollable prescience, led
her to the spot whence he must first emerge. Hoping against
hope, she could hear as well as feel the beatings of her own sad
heart, as she listened through the lagging hours for the sound of
his welcome footfall, or manly voice. And as she impatiently
waited, pacing the hot sand backwards and forwards, she sang in
the low, sweet, yet irapassioned cadences peculiar to her race,
that which, when translated, should be .substantially expressed as
follows : —

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 373
"Come to the heart that loves thee;
To the eyes that beam in bright ess but to gladden thine;
Come, where fond thoughts in holiest incen e rise;
And cherished memory rears her altar-shrine.
Dearest — come home ! "
But, alas ! finding that when the dark gray dawn of earliest
morning brought not her beloved one, like a deer she sprang from
rock to rock up the steep ascent, not pausing even for breath, nor
delaying a moraent for rest ; she hastened towards the spot whence
the expected signal was to be given. Tracks — his blessed tracks
— could be distinctly seen, and followed to the mountain's edge;
but, alas, not one was visible to indicate his return therefrom.
When she called, only the echo of her own sad voice returned an
answer. Where could he be? The marks of a new fracture of
the mountain disclosed the fact that a portion had recently broken
oft'; and memory, at once, recalled the sounds that she had heard,
when on the ledge below. It could not be tbat her heart-cherished
Kos-soo-kah could have been standing there at the time of its fall !
Oh! No. The Great Spirit would not be so unmindful of her
burning love for hira as to permit that. With agonized dread
she summoned sufficient courage to peer over the edge of the cliff,
and the lifeless and ghastly form of her darling was seen lying
in the hollow, near that which has since been designated the Giant's
Thurab. Spontaneously acting with a clearness and strength that de
spair will sometimes give, she kindled a bright fire upon the very
edge of the mountain, that thereby she raight telegraph her wants
and wishes to those below, in accordance with a custora that every
Indian learns to practice frora childhood;* and slow as the hours
ebbed away, the entreated relief came at last, for the hoped-for
recovery of her soul's jewel, even though now sleeping in the cold
embrace of death. Young sapling tamaracks were lashed end
wise together, with thongs cut from the skin of the deer tbat were
to form part of the wedding feast; and, when these were ready,
•See pages 25, 26.

374 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Tee-hee-neh, springing forward, would permit no hands but her
own to be the first to touch the beloved one. She would descend
to recover him, or perish in the atterapt. Finding that no amount
of persuasion could change her resolve they reluctantly, yet care
fully, lowered her to the prostrate form of Kos-soo-kah ; and, as
though strength of purpose had converted her nerves into steel,
defiant of all danger, she first ki.ssed his pale lips, then unwound
the deer-skin cords frora around her body, fastened them lovingly,
yet firmly, to his, and gave the signal for uplifting him to the top.
This accomplished, gently, yet efficiently, a reverent anxiety could
be seen engraved upon the faces of those performing that kindly
act, for the safe deliverance of the heroic Tee-hee-neh; but,
the same undisraayed fearlessness, and apparent nerve, that had
enabled her to descend, did not forsake her now, and before the
self-iraposed task she had so unfalteringly set herself had been
accoraplished. Firraly fastening her foot, to prevent slipping,
withouf other support or 'protection, she nervously clutched the
pole with one hand, and as a signal of her wishes waved theother;
and in a few raoraents was again at the side of her adored, though
lifeless, Kos-soo-kah. Silently, fearlessly, she looked for a mo
raent into those eyes that love had once lighted, and at the color
less lips frora which .she had so delec tably sipped the nectar of her
earthly bliss ; then, noiselessly, quiveringly, sinking to her knees,
she fell upon his bosora ; and, when lifted by gentle hands a few
moments thereafter, it was discovered that her spirit had joined
that of her Kos-soo-kah, in the hunting grounds of the hereafter.
She had died of a broken heart.
As the arrow that had so unexpectedly, yet so ruthlessly,
brought on this double calamity, could never be found, it is be
lieved that it was spirited away by the reunited Tee-hee-neh and
Kos-soo-kah, to be sacredly kept as a memento of their undying
love. The heavenward-pointed thumb, still standing there, in the
hollow near which Kos-soo-kah's body was found, is ever rever
ently known among all tbe sons and daughters of Ah-wah-nee, as
Hum-moo, or " The Lost Arrow."

THE YO SEiflTE VALLEY. 37.-3
On the right of Hum-moo, or Yo Seinite Point, is Indian
Caiion. It was up this caiion that the Indian prisoners escaped in 1851,
as related in Chapter V, pages 68, 69 ; frora which circumstance
originated the narae; and it was down tbis that the avenging
Monos crept, when they .substantially exterminated the Yo Semite

INDIAN CaSON.
tribe in 1853, as recorded in Chapter VI, pages 76, 77, and 78.
This canon, therefore, is invested with historical interest. For
the purpose of enabling visitors to obtain views of the sublime
scenery of the Sierras from, the high ridge westerly frora tbe crest
of Yo Semite Point, and look upon the top of the Yo Semite Fall,

376 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
before raaking its leap into the Valley, the writer had a horse-trail
constructed up it, in 1870. The small streamlet leaping in at the
side is called the Little Winkle.
Bearing to the right from this standpoint can be seen the
North Dome, beneath which are the Royal Arches and Washing
ton Tower ; and, following in succession, are the Half Dome, Grizzly
Peak, Mount Starr King, Glacier Point, Union Point, the Senti
nel, Cathedral Peaks, Eagle Peak, Eagle Tower, and the Yo
Semite Fall, all forming a glorious panorama of Valley celebrities.
But, advancing toward the latter, on our right we pass the or
chard, the Hutchings' cabin (described in Chapter XI, pages
138, 139, 140, and 141), and are soon at the Yo Semite Creek
Bridge, and can there see the large volurae of water that forras
THE YO SEMITE FALL.
Looking at tbe full stream that is hurrying on, in the early
spring at least, we can scarcely realize that all this water has just
made the leap of nearly two thousand six hundred feet ; or that
the apparently small fall we had seen from the opposite side of
the Vallej', could develop into so imposing a spectacle. Noticing
this on a recent occasion, when in company with a civil engineer,
the inquiry was made, " About how much water do you suppose
there is now rolling over the edge of that mountain yonder, judg
ing frora the size and speed of tbis streara?" "I will tell you
this evening," was the prompt rejoinder. At the proraised tirae I
received the following: —
When at the little red bridge which spans the stream, which I under
stood you to be supplied entirely by the Yo Seraite Fall, this afternoon, I
made a rough measurement of the quantity of water flowing, and found
it to be as follow.s: Width 40 feet, mean depth 5 feet, mean velocity about
4 feet per second. Quantity 40x5x4=800 cubic feet per second, or about
6,000 gallons per second.
I understood you to say that you had found the width of the stream
at the top of the Yo Semite Fall to be 34 feet. If the yelocity there bj 15
feet per second, this quantity would require a mean depth of 1 foot 7
inches. Very respectfully yours,
Hiram F. Mills, Civil Engineer.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 377
Before advancing far beyond the Yo Semite Creek Bridge,
let me call attention to an apparentlj' small pine tree that stands
alone, at tbe top of the shrub-covered slope that extends to the
foot of the upper Yo Semite Fall wall, and seemingly beneath it.
Now that tree, sraall as it appears, by careful measurement is a
little over one hundred and twenty -five feet in height, by eight
feet seven inches in circuraference. By noticing the comparatively
in.significant proportions of that tree, we may be assisted in com
prehending the otherwise unrealized altitudes of these immense
cliffs. The large pine growing on the ledge below tbat, has a cir
cumference, at the base, of twelve feet nine inches. Hum-moo,
or the Giant's Thumb, stands prorainently up and out when seen
frora this standpoint ; and whose height is said be two hundred
and three feet above the hollow where Kos-soo-kah's body was
reputed to be found, according to the legend of the Lost Arrow.
FOOT OF THE LOWER YO SEMITE FALL.
The nearer we approach the Yo Semite Fall, tbe more fully
do we realize its astonishing attractions. Those who content
themselves by viewing this raagnificent scene only at a distance,
must have about the same apprehension of its impressive attraction
as they would of a very beautiful woman, or handsome man, when
seen about half a mile off. The same comparison will appositely
apply to seeing the Vernal and Nevada Falls only from Glacier
Point. It is nearness that places us in appreciative communion
with Nature an<l her manifold and unspeakable glories. I have
accompanied hundreds, aye, thousands, to the foot of the Lower
Yo Semite Fall, and this, without an exception, has been the
spontaneous confession of every one. So that every step that
we take after crossing the Yo Semite Creek Bridge puts us into
closer relationship with the impressive majesty of this wonderful
fall. "How it grows upon us," is a most frequent ejaculation
that is born of apprehensive and appreciative feeling. How we
watch the bold leap that it is making over the clift", raore than
two thousand five hundred feet above our heads, and follow the

378

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

vaulting masses of its rocket-shaped and foaming waters with the
eye, down to the seething caldron into which it bounds, at the
base of the upper fall ; its eddying mists fringed by the sun with
iridescent colors, that are constantly changing and reforraing.
At the right of the fall, just below its crest, a dark raass of
shadow reveals the portrait of the " Gnome of tho Yo Semite,"
with his badge of rank hanging across the shoulder.
The oaks, dogwoods, alders, maples, pines, and cedars now

Piioto. by C, L Weed

VALLEY rOKD OF M'HE YO SEMITE.

Ijegin to form an arcade of great beauty over the sparkling, rip
pling, foaraing, singing, bowlder-strewn foreground of the stream;
while in the background the lower Yo Seraite is leaping down in
one broad sheet of white sheen, the raain body of which seems

TUE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 379
composed of immense icicles fringed with snow, falling from
behind a dark middle distance of pines and firs. If the snow
fields above are rapidly raelting beneath the fiery strength of a
hot sumraer's sun, a large body of water will be seen rushing and
bounding over and araong blocks of granite ; then, spreading out
afterwards, to form numerous .streams that can readily be forded,
if the ford is prudently selected, and thus afford a .strikingly
picturesque scene.
It raust not be supposed that the cloud-like spray that de
scends is the main fall itself, broken into infinitesimal particles
and thus becoraes nothing but a broad sheet of cloud. By no
means; for, although this stream shoots over the margin of the
mountain, nearly five hundred feet above, it falls almost in a solid
body; not in a continuous stream exactly, but having a close re
serablance to an avalanche of snowy rockets that appear to be
perpetually trying to overtake each other in their descent, and
coramingling one with the other, compose a torrent of indescriba
ble power and beautj-.
As we advance, a change of temperature becomes very per
ceptible, so that the warmth experienced in tbe open Vallej' upon
the way, is gradually changed to chilliness. Soon we feel that a
breeze, about equal in strength to eight knots an hour, is meet
ing us directly in the face, and bringing with it a heavy shower
of finely comminuted spray, that falls with sufficient force to
saturate our clothing in a few moments. From this a beautiful
phenomenon is observable, inasrauch as, after striking our hats,
the diaraond-like mist shoots off at an angle of about thirty-five
or forty degrees, and as the sun shines upon it, a number of
miniature rainbows are formed all around us. In early days,
when conveniences were few, this cold draught of air was pressed
into service as a meat-safe, and answered very well, in the absence
of all others. The philosophy which explains the cause of this
cold current is, that the water-fall leaping into the air naturallj'
displaces it by driving it downward, and thus creates a vacuum ;
and the air from above rushing in to fill that vacuum, causes

380 IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
this constant wind. It will be noticed that even the trees which
stand in the current are prevented frora forming branches on
their windward side. It will also be noticed that the trunks of
these trees are denuded of branches for from fifty to eighty feet up
them ; the cause of which, probably, arises from the heavy deposits
of snow which forra here during some winters (I have crossed
bridges of snow here that were over seventy feet in thickness),
and as its melting is raainly from beneath, when the snow settles
down it breaks off all the branches, and carries them down with it.
Drawing still nearer, large masses of sharp, angular rocks, are
scattered bere and there, forn:ing the uneven sides of an immense
and apparently ever-boiling caldron ; around, and in the inter
stices of which numerous dwarf ferns, weeds, grasses, and flowers
are ever growing ; where not actually washed by the falling stream.
Hastily rushing through the spray, and taking shelter behind a
buttress of the mountain, we can see two of the divisions which
make this water-fall apparently forming into one.
It is beyond the power of language to describe the awe-
inspiring raajesty of the darkly-frowning and overhanging
mountain walls of solid granite that here hem us in on every side,
as though they would threaten us with instantaneous annihilation,
did we for a moraent atterapt to deny their power. If raan ever
feels his utter insignificance, it is when looking upon such a scene
of appalling grandeur as the one here presented.
The point whence the photograph was taken from which
the accompanying engraving was made, being directly near the
foot of the lower fall, might lead to the supposition that the lower
section, embracing, as it does, about three-fourths of the whole,
was the highest of the two, when the relative heights of the three
are, as given by
Prof. J. D. Whitney, Slate Geologist: Lieutenant Wheeler, U. S. Suney.
Upper Fall  1,500 Upper Fall  1,436
Middle (including cascades)  626 Middle (including cascades) 626
Lower  400 Lower  488

Total  2,526 Total  2,550
But Professor Whitney makes thisj observation : —

Photo hy C. L. Weed. NEAR VIEW OF YO SEMITE FALL-

382 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
The vertical height of the lip of the fall above the Valley is, in round
numbers, 2,600 feet, our various measurements giving from 2,537 to 2,641,
the discrepancies being due to the fact that a near approach to, or a pre
cise definition of, the place where the perpendicular portion of the fall
commences is not possible. The lip or edge of the fall is a great rounded
mass of granite, polished to the last degree, on which it was found to be
a hazardous matter to move. A diff'erence of a hundred feet, in a fall of
this height, would be entirely imperceptible to most eyes.
The streara which forras this fall flows raainly frora the melt
ing snows near Mt. Hoffman, some eighteen miles distant. When
the trip is taken to Eagle Peak, as the trail passes sufficiently
close to thc foot of the upper Yo Semite Fall to affbrd the oppor
tunity of a closer examination, we can then see more of its varied
and interesting features. JAUNT TO MIKROE LAKE.
This is one of the most delightful and most satisfying of
pilgrimages that could possibly be made within the walls of the
Valley; but, to see the lake at its best, when the reflected shadows
are strongest, and the beautiful mirror upon its glassy bosom is
in the greatest perfection, it should be seen before the sun rises
upon it. This will enable the visitor to witness the interesting
phenoraena of "sunrise on the lake," and afford the opportunity
of its repetition several times on the same morning ! Between ten
and twelve A. M., the sea breeze generally sweeps across it, and
breaks the mirror into as many pieces as there are ripples upon it.
Therefore make the visit early, say about seven o'clock ; but this,
of course, diifers according to the season of the j'ear; yet the
proper tirae for leaving the hotel can always be ascertained from
the landlord, or fi'om the carriage proprietors. On account of the
early tirae desirable for setting out on this trip, it is better to
po.stpone it until the second day after arrival, as a preraature
departure from our couch on the succeeding morning of our
advent, will generally bring on premature fatigue, and a conse
quent decrease in the amount of our enjoyment.
Leaving the hotel early, then, we cross Meadow Avenue to

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 383
the oak -studded low ridge on the northern side, and threading
our way through the grove, have glimpses of our unspeakably
sublime surroundings frora between the trees. On our left we
pass the revered spot where dear ones are sleeping ; and soon find
ourselves at the old Indian carap ground, near Indian Canon ; the
bright sunlight and .somber shadows winking and twinkling frora
between the trees, upon the gurgling streams that intersect the
road. While on our right lie luxuriant green fields, first fenced
and cultivated by Mr. J. C. Laraon ; and the old cabin where
he once spent his winters, as narrated on page 137. These are
now occupied, and well cared for, by Mr. A. Harris and family.
ROYAL ARCHES, AND WASHINGTON TOWER.
But a few yards beyond these we cross the streams that form
the Royal Arch Cascades, a diamond-lighted, wavy, rausical rivu
let, that drops gently down some two thousand feet over the
Royal Arch wall. This is so called from the iraraense arches
that are hewed out of its side, which have a span of over a quarter
of a mile, and a height of about one thousand seven hundred feet ;
and which, with the Washington Tower, forra the base of the
great North Dome, represented in the engraving.
The Indian name of this arch-fdrraed and dome-crowned
mountain is To-coy-se, derived from the prorainence and depth
(some fifty feet) of one of its projecting conchoidal fractures, hav
ing a resemblance to a poke-bonnet-like shade to the Indian
baby-basket, for protecting the occupant's ej'es frora the sun, and
which is called " to-coy-fe."" Owing to the curve of these wing
like arches, stretching as they do from a kind of lion-like head,
near the top of Washington Tower — as the abutting angle of this
mountain is called — a gentleraan resident of Philadelphia sug
gested that " The Winged Lion " (one of the sculptures found by
Layard in the ruined cities of the Euphrates Valley) would be a
more expressive . and suitable narae for it than "Royal Arches."
There is a large cave among the talus lying here, that was
once used as a store-room by Mr. Lamon, whenever his winters

384

IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

ihoto. by C Koach. NORTH DOME, KOYAL ARCHES, AND WASHINGTON TOWER.
(North Dome, 3,700 feet above Valley.)
were spent outside the Valley. Near this there is also another
talus-formed cave, that is a natural fortification, and which was
used as such, by the Indians, when pursued by the avenging
soldiers in 1851-52. A short turn out from the road, when re
turning from Mirror Lake, will afford the opportunity of seeing it.
AVhen on the road towards Mirror Lake it may not be amiss
to revert to the legend recorded on page 59, as it was here the
exploit occurred that gave the name of " Yo Semite" to the tribe.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 3s.5
and afterwards t(j the Valley itself. Riding over rocky hillocks,
and among debris that has at sorae time fallen from the adjacent
mountains, with a park-like array of trees on either hand, we
first arrive at Little Lake; and, just beyond it, the bright bosom
of the enchantingly beautiful Mirror Lake comes into full view.
At first its size is slightly disappointing, but that is soon lost
sight of and forgotten in admiration of its transcendent loveliness.
There is not a spot on earth, yet seen by man, that so charminglj'
blends majesty with beautj'. And as soon as the beatified first
impression soraewhat subsides, and we can analj'ze its marvelous
surrounding more in detail, the stronger becomes the conviction of
its unequaled charms.
In full front of us, bearing a little to the left, perhaps, stands
Mount Watkins, a second El Capitan (yet loftier), that exceeds
four thousand feet in height above the bosora of the lake ; then
coraes the deep gorge through which the waters of Lake Ten-ie-ya,
(sorae twelve miles easterly), leap from crag to pool, then gurgle
among huge blocks of granite, until they reach Mirror Lake,
there to becorae the medium of so much satisfying splendor ; on
the right of this stands glorious Cloud's Rest, nearly six thousand
feet above the lake ; and directly southeast of us towers up nearly
five thousand feet the over-shadowing and lofty wall of grand
" Tis-sa-ack " (Half Dome), so called in affectionate veneration
for the Indian's guardian angel of the Valley, bearing that
name, as will becorae more apparent when the accompanying-
legend is read.
Alraost one-half of this iramense mass, either from some con
vulsion of nature, or " Time's effacing fingers,"
has fallen over, by which, raost probably, the dara for the lake
was first forraed. Yet proudlj', aye, defiantly erect, it still hob Is
its noble head, and is not only the highest of all those standing
more iraraediately around, but is one of the greatest attractions
of the Valley. Moreover, in this are centered raanj' agreeable
associations to the Indian mind, as this was once the traditionary
25

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 387
home of the angel-like and beautiful Tis-sa-ack, after whom her
devoted Indian worshipers named this gloriously majestic raount
ain. While we sit in the shade of these fine old trees, and look
upon all the objects around us, rairrored on the unruffled waters of
the lake, let us relate the following interesting legend of Tu-tock-
ah-nu-lah, after whom the vast perpendicular and massive project
ing rock at the lower end of the valley was naraed, and with
which is closely interwoven the history of Tis-sa-ack.
This legend was related in an Eastern journal, by a gentleraan
once visiting here, who signs himself " Iota," and who received it
from the lips of an old Indian ; the relation of which, although
several points of interest are omitted, will, nevertheless, prove
very entertaining: —
THE LEGEND OF TU-TOCK-AH-NU-LAH AND TIS-SA-ACK.
" It was in the unremembered past that the children of the
sun first dwelt in Yo Semite. Then all was happiness; for Tu-
tock-ah-nu-la sat on high in his rocky home, and cared for the
people whora he loved. Leaping over the upper plains, he herded
the wild deer, that the people might choose the fattest for the
feast. He rou.sed the bear from his cavern in the mountain, that
the brave might hunt. From his lofty rock he prayed to the
Oreat Spirit, and brought the soft rain upon the corn in the
valley. The sraoke of his pipe curled into the air, and the golden
sun breathed warmly through its blue haze, and ripened the crops,
that the woraen might gather them in. When he laugheil, the
face of the winding river was rippled with smiles ; when he sighed,
the wind swept sadly through the sighing pines ; if he spoke, the
sound was like the deep voice of the cataract; and when he smote
the far-striding bear, his whoop of triumph rang from crag to
gorge — echoed from mountain to mountain. His forra was
straight like the arrow, and elastic like the bow. His foot was
swifter than the red deer, and his eye was strong and bright like
the rising sun.
" But one raorning, as he roaraed, a bright vision came
before him, and then the soft colors of the West were in his lus-

388 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
trous eye. A raaiden sat upon the southern granite dorae that
lifts its gray head araong the highest peaks. She was not like
the dark raaidens of the tribe below, for the yellow hair rolled
over her dazzling form, as golden waters over silver rocks; her
brow beamed with the pale beauty of the moonlight, and her blue
eyes were as the far-off hills before the sun goes down. Her little
foot shone like the snow-tufts on the wintry pines, and its arch
was like the spring of a bow. Two cloud-like wings wavered
upon her dimpled shoulders, and her voice was as the sweet, sad
tone of the night-bird of the woods.
"'Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,' she softly whispered ; then, gliding up
the rocky dorae, she vanished over its rounded tops. Keen was
the eye, quick was the ear, swift was the foot of the noble youth
as he sped up the rugged path in pursuit ; but the soft down frora
her snowy wings was wafted into his eyes, and he saw her no
raore. " Every morning now did the enamored Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah
leap the stony barriers, and wander over the raountains, to meet
the lovely Tis-sa-ack. Every day he laid sweet acorns and wild
flowers upon her dome. His ear caught her footstep, though it
was light as the falling leaf; his eye gazed upon her beautiful
form, and into her gentle eyes; but never did he speak before her,
and never again did her sweet-toned voice fall upon his ear.
Thus did he love the fair raaid, and so strong was his thought of
her that he forgot the crops of Yo Semite, and they, without rain,
wanting his tender care, quickly drooped their heads, and shrunk.
The wind whistled mournfully through the wild corn, the wild
bees stored no more honey in the hollow tree, for the flowers
had lost their freshness, and the green leaves became brown.
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah saw none of this, for his eyes were dazzled by
the .shining wings of the maiden. But Tis-sa-ack looked with
sorrowing eyes over tbe neglected Valley, when early in the morn
ing she stood upon the gray dorae of the mountain ; so, kneeling
on the sraooth, hard rock, the maiden besought the Great Spirit
to bring again the bright flowers and delicate grasses, green trees,.
and nodding acorns.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. .389
" Then, with an awful sound, the dorae of granite opened
beneath her feet, and the mountain was riven asunder, while tbe
melting snow frora the Sierras gushed through the wondeiful gorge.
Quickly they forraed a lake between the perpendicular walls of
the cleft raountain, and .sent a .sweet raurrauring river through
the Vallej'. All then was changed. The birds dashed their little
bodies into the prettj' pools araong the grasses, and, fluttering out
again, sang for delight; the raoisture crept silently through the
parched soil ; the flowers sent up a fragrant incense of thanks ;
the corn gracefully raised its drooping head; and the sap, with
velvet footfall, ran up into the trees, giving life and energy to all.
But the raaid, for whora the Vallej' had suffered, and through
whom it had been again clothed with beauty, had disappeared as
strangely as she carae. Yet, that all might hold her memory in
their hearts, she left the quiet lake, the winding river, and yonder
half dome, which still bears her name Tis-sa-ack. It is 5,000
feet above the placid lake that mirrors its iraposing presence,
and every evening it catches the last rosy rays that are reflected
frora the ,snowy peaks above. As she flew away, sraall downy
feathers were wafted frora her wings, and where they fell —
on the margin of the lake, and over the meadows beyond — j-ou
now see thousands of little white violets, which, if lovingly
plucked and kissed, will bring happy thoughts and pleasant
dreams to their possessor, wheresoever they are carried.
" When Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah knew that she was gone, he left
his rocky castle, and wandered away in search of his lost love.
But that the Yo Semites might never forget him, with the hunt
ing-knife in his bold hand, he carved the bold outlines of his
noble head upon the rock that bears his narae ; and there they
still reraain 2,000 feet above, guarding the entrance to the
Valley which had received his tender care. After raanjr years of
far-off journeyings, without finding his lieloved Tis-sa-ack, he
returned to his disconsolate home, and near where Po-ho-no spreads
her vapory veil, his raajestic bust stands prominently out above
the encircling walls of his once happy habitation."

3.90 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Whole days could be enjoyably spent here, reading, rausing,
fishing, and rowing on the lake ; and a drive to it with a pleasant
party on a raoonlight night, becoraes a delightful entertainment.
On one occasion the Hon. Mrs. Yelverton, with the gifted Cali
fornia writer, Mrs. Lawrence (better known bythe nom deplume
of " Red Ridinghood," and who has done so much by her rich and
varied description to bespeak wrapt attention to the Valley), and
nine others, spent a gloriously raemorable evening here. Mrs.
Yelverton very kindly favored us with Tennyson's appropriate
and inspiriting "Bugle Song:" —
The splendor falls on castle walls.
And snowy summits old in story;
The long light shakes across the lakes.
And the wild cataract leaps in glory.
Blow, bugle, blow; set the wild echoes flying;
Blow, bugle; answer, echoes, dying, dying, dying.
Pausing a little longer between the higher notes than the rausic
provides for, nine distinct echoes could be heard repeating its
delicious strains. In the early raorning, when every sound is
hushed, and before the breeze disturbs its quiet, the echoes will be
found excellent ; but in the evening, when the haze lingers on the
raountain-tops, and possibly prevents the sound from passing far
upward, the effect is strongest and best.
Speaking of echoes, as story-tellers would say, this reminds
me of Mr. J. H. Lawrence's graphic description of an echo, when
making his first trip to Yo Semite in 1855,* and Indians were
supposed to be uninvitinglj' near: —
"Bang!" went the rifle, and a thousand echoes responded. "Great
Scott!" exclaimed Hugh. "Just listen to it. Will it ever quit? Jee-
whillikins! Who ever heard a gun crack like that? It seemed to stop for
a while, but it's going yet — broke out in a new place."
"Well, now, I'm happy and content," responded Jim; "for if there
are any Indians within ten miles of us, they are going to get up and dust.
No little squad of Piutes, Diggers, or Monos, are going to stop within hear
ing of a whole army. They'll think there's about five hundred of us —
won't they, Hugh?"
*See page 93.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 391
• Yes., a thousand, easy enough. Did you ever hear the like of those
echoes? They rattled away along the crest of the mountain, jumping in
and out ofthe ravines, butting against the tops of the tall sugar pines, till
they got tangled up and lost in a big caiion soraewhere away yonder, where
they seemed to die out, muttering and grumbling; till directly they gath
ered themselves together again, and came rolling out big as pounds of
wool." If we have been so injudicious as to leave the hotel or carap
ground before breakfast, or neglected a precautionary provision
for our raid day repast, an admonishing voice frora the organs of
digestion will probably hasten our premature departure; otherwise
we might be induced to tarry longer to examine the supposed ex
istence of refractory rays of light, which are said to transvert the
ordinary image of trees rairrored, and to place them upright in
the mirror as in nature; or examine, in detail, the many objects
that are represented on the mountain walls, such as the clothes
line, fish, heads of men and forms of women, elephants, etc., dis
covered by persons with keen eyesight, and strong iraaginations.
When leaving Mirror Lake, immediately after our emergence
from the rocky talus over which we have been riding, should we
look southward, and up the cafion to the left of Glacier Point, we
would see the Too-lool-a-we-ack, or Glacier Canon Fall, leaping
down over the cliff". Before leaving this part of the Valley let rae
call your attention to
A FINE CHALYBEATE SPRING
That bubbles up, on the margin of Ten-ie-ya Creek. I once
visited this spring in company with the erainent English chemist.
Dr. F. R. Lees, of Leeds, and he pronounced it the finest and most
valuable chalybeate spring he had ever seen. A carriage can go
within a few yards of it.
Just below the chalybeate spring we take the Tis-sa-ack
Avenue Road, a delightfully picturesque stretch, crossing the dark
shady waters of Ten-ie-ya Creek on a strong bridge ; and on the
right hand, a few steps below it, can be seen the largest tree in
the Valley, being twenty -eight feet in circumference atthe ground.
It is a red or Douglas spruce, Abies Douglasii. A couple of hun-

392 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
dred yards frora this, on our right, is the famous Lamon Orchard
and cabin, where Mr. Laraon spent his two winters entirely alone,
as related on pages 135 and 138. On the south eastern edge of
the Laraon Orchard, lying between Ten-ie-ya Creek and the main
Merced River, WE PASS OVER AN OLD MORAINE.
This seems to have been deposited here by the corabined ac
tion of two glaciers ; one raoving down Ten-ie-ya Creek, and the
other by the raain river, joined in the Valley by another frora
Glacier Cafion. Glirapses of the sparkling stream, fringed with
dogwoods, alders, oaks, and balm of gileads, with here and there
a noble pine; scattered raasses of granite, huge bowlders, and
rocky spurs, over which our road passes ; these, with Glacier Canon
and Glacier Point, unite to raake the Tis-sa-ack Avenue drive one
of the raost enjoyable of thera all. Presently we find ourselves on
Tis-sa-ack Bridge, which here spans the Merced River ; and, look
ing northerly, obtain one of the finest of all views of the North
Dorae, which, frora this standpoint, is shaped like a hugh Prussian
military hat; and the leaping cascades above the bridge, over
arched by alders, are both beautiful and wildly picturesque.
Spinning down the Valley from the bridge, seemingly direc
underneath the Glacier Point Wall, we cross several large and de
liciously cold springs that apparently boil out from beneath it;
and which are to be pressed into service for supplying the new
hotel with a raost liberal abundance of excellent water (and yet
leave plenty for others), and soon thereafter arrive at
THE NEW HOTEL.
To becomingly provide for the growing wants o" the travel
ing public in accordance with the progressive spirit of the age, a
new and commodious hotel was resolved upon at Yo Semite, and
the sura of $40,000 was appropriated by the Legislature of 1885,
for its construction. The Board of Commissioners imraediately
advertised for suitable plans, and frora araong those submitted,
selected the one they deemed raost appropriate. In addition to its

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. .•J93
architectural picturesqueness it has seventy-four good-sized bed
rooms, dining and sitting rooras, billiard hall, and bar room, hot
a,nd cold baths, office, and other convenient apartments, in addi
tion to capacious verandas on two stories. It is to be first-class
in all its arrangements and appointments.
DOINGS OF THE "CYCLONE."
About a quarter of a mile below the new hotel, a so-called
" cyclone " swooped down from a point apparently west of the
Glacier Wall on March 13, 1881, and cut a swath of forest desola
tion over three hundred yards in breadth ; snapping off" pine trees
exceeding five feet in diameter, as though they wcie mere pipe
stems; uprooting others, twisting and breaking off" the tops and
branches of sturdy oaks, as though enviouslj angry at the um
brageous quiet they were enjoying ; and strewed the whole plateau
with tree wrecks. One hundred cords of fire-wood, besides an
abundance of good logs adapted to saw-mill purposes, were scat
tered around.
Now I cannot accept the " cj'clone " theory, as its first effbrts
were expended near an almost vertical bluff, where there was no
room for such a force to concentrate, and all the havoc raade was
in a direction at right angles with the bluff. Mj' theory, there
fore, is this (and I freely concede the privilege of accepting
or declining it): On the 7th of March, a fall of snow carae, that
measured fourteen inches; on the Sth, fifteen inches; on the Oth,
fourteen and a half inches; on the 10th, twelve inches; on the
Ilth, sixteen inches; on the 12th, thirteen inches; all of this lay
on the shelving side of the mountain, back of the wind swath.
On the 18th of March, after making an additional deposit of
the feathery element of some ten inches, a steady and heavy rain
.set in; which, running down the shelving wall, severed the cling
ing connection between it and the snow; when, having no sup
port, its natural weight, infiltrated by the falling rain, caused the
entire mass to suddenly give Avaj-, and as suddenly to displace
the air, thus causing the devastation stated.

394 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
The lofty and bold surroundings on every hand may well
charm us with their majesty and beauty, as we drive along ; while
the Yo Seraite Fall in front of us all the way down, provides
an everchanging and acceptable variety to this scenic feast.
About a quarter of a mile before reaching Barnard's, as part of
our course is upon the bank of the Merced River, we can see the
trout disporting themselves in its transparent waters; and just
beyond that, on our left, is the little school-house — and then, the
hotels. AFTERNOON RIDE DOWN THE VALLEY.
After a substantial lunch — called by many English visitors-
" tiffin " — made palatable by that best of all sauces, a good appe
tite, as our carriage is possibly waiting, let us make an excursion
down the Valley and gaze upon some of its raatchless winders.
On this pilgrimage it is usual to recross the upper iron bridge,
again review raany of the scenes witnessed on our way to Mirror
Lake, pass the Yo Seraite Fall, and, directly in front of us, stands
Eagle Peak, three thousand eight hundred and eighteen feet above
the Valley. As we, at a future tirae, are to climb to its exalted
summit, we will, if you please, only glance at its sky-piercing
pinnacle, and pass down Pine Avenue to
ROCKY POINT.
This is just under the lowest shoulder of the " Three Broth
ers," and is forraed by large blocks of rockj- talus that once
peeled frora its side. By the excellence of the road made over this
difficult spot can now be seen how these huge mas,ses had to yield
to blasting powder, huraan will and rauscle, pulley blocks, and
mule power, for such results to be accomplished. From one part of
the road here a magnificent view is obtained of the entire eastern
end of the Valley. Soon after crossing Rocky Point — a reference
to the tables will show the distances traveled — we arrive at and
exaraine the Indian Camp and its inmates ; but, as the manners
and customs of tbese really interesting people will be given in a
separate chapter, further present description will be unnecessary.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

:-l9.->

When about a mile below the Indian Camp, by looking back
in a north easterly direction,, we have an excellent view of
THE THREE BROTHERS.
By reference to page 67, it will be seen that this was so called
from three brothers, sons of the old Indian Chief Ten-ie-ya, who
were acting as Indian scouts during the Indian campaign of 1851,
and were captured here. The Indian name is Pora-pom-pa-sa,
which signifies " the tbree mountains playing leap-frog," and
which becomes suggestive of the Indians' indulgence in that boy-

Photo. byj. L.Weed. THB THREE uROTHEKS (Highest 3,818 feet above Valley).

396 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
ish pastime. But soon after passing these we find ourselves in the
awe-inspiring and over shadowing presence of
GRAND OLD EL CAPITAN — TU-TOCK-AH-NU-LAH.*
But what finite raind can ever coraprehend the marvelous
massiveness of this monarch of mountains — a raighty fabric of
granite towering up three thousand three hundred feet in the
zenith? or who conceive the amplitude, or magnitude, of three
thousand three hundred feet of vertical rock cleavage? Those
who have seen the Palace Hotel in San Francisco will remember
how that structure overtops all contiguous buildings; yet, that
iraraense caravansary is but one hundred and ten feet from the
sidewalk to the cornice; therefore, it would require just thirty
Palace Hotels, on top of each other, to reach the edge of El Capi
tan, above the meadow in front of it. Then, supposing this
mountain could be laid along Montgomery Street, San Francisco,
it would extend from Post Street, at the corner of Market, to
Broadway, over ten blocks, including the cross streets. Trinity
Church steeple. New York, is two hundred and eighty-four feet
high; therefore it would require eleven and a half of these to
attain such an altitude. The statue on the dome of the Capitol
at Washington, D. C, being three hundred and seven feet above
the base of that structure, would take ten and three-quarters of
that imposing building, to enable the lips of the Goddess of Liberty,
on the top of it, to kiss the brow of Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah. St. Paul's
Cathedral, at London, including the dome, is three hundred and
sixty -five feet above the church-yard, so that over nine of those
would be required to attain an equal elevation. St. Peter's, at
Rorae, four hundred and five feet high, would need to be over eight
tiraes its height, before the shoulder of its cross could touch that of
El Capitan. And, allowing the possibility of its falling over, into,
* "Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah" >\ as to the Indians of antiquity a semi-d-ity and chief
m whose person wae centered the double responsibility of head pur eyor of creat
ure comforts for ihe Ah-wah-nee-chees upon earth, and the superintendence of
their enjoyments in the hunting grounds of their Indian heaven. " El Capitan "
is .Spanish for The Captain, a name given to this bold jutting mountain bythe Mis-
sioa Ind ans, and which was probably derived from their Spanish instructors, the
priests

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 397
and across the Valley, its grand old head would lie on the liosom
of the opposite cliff"! while forming a dam that would convert the
who'i upper end of the Valley into a lake exceeding half a mile
in depth. Who, then, can fully comprehend the stupendous mag
nitude of incomparable El Capitan?
It has two iramense faces exceeding half a mile in breadth ;
one to the south (which is said to overhang raore than one hun
dred feet, a short distance east of the abutting angle), upon which
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah, according to the legend,* "carved the out
lines of his noble head," and whose portrait attracts the attention
of every curious passer-bj' ; and the other face is on the west (which
also overhangs) upon the top of which is the only place where
a huraan foot can safely approach the edge, and from that stand
point look into an abyss exceeding three thousand five hundred
feet in depth. Well raight the Rev. Thoraas Starr King, while
reverentially gazing at this marvelous cliff, with deep emotion
exclaira, " A more raajestic object than this rock I never expect
to see upon this planet! " /
Then it should be reraerabered tbat the views obtained of it
are generally frora the road about half a raile away ; but to feel
the unutterable majesty of its sublime presence, the debris shoulil
be climbed, and one's back placed against its overhanging wall.
The small proportionate araount of debris lying at its base, is
cause for thoughtful musing as to the why and wherefore ; and
probably keeps our thoughts ruminatingly busy while reluctantly
turning our faces away frora it.
Emerging into the green meadow just beyond, the " Cathedral
Group" of mountains .strikingly confronts us; and possibly invites
a compar.sion between those before and that we have just linger
ingly left behind. The excellence of the road, and the scenes still
awaiting us both stiraulate and invite to an increase in the speed
of our horses ; and in a few minutes we find ourselves on a .straight
and elevated roadway, beneath which numerous culverts provide
for the unobstructed exit of the glinting waters of numerous
"Page .SS8.

398 IN THE HE.MiT OF THE SIERRAS.
branches of a pebbly and bowlder-strewn stream, that has just
made an unbroken leap of over two thousand feet, and which is
known as THE RIBBON FALL.
The Indians call this Lung-oo-too-koo-yah, or the graceful
and slender one ; while a lady, whose name shall be naraeless, once
christened it " Virgin's Tears; " but, when a matter-of-fact person
made inquiry for any legitimate reason why a virgin should weep,
or, weeping, cause such floods of tears to flow, he was thought to
jiossess as liraited an araount of idealisra as Bob Cratchet, who,
according to Dickens, "tried to warm himself at the candle; in
which effort, not being a man of strong imagination, he failed;"
and when the same individual hazarded the casual remark that
" his acquaintance was exceedingly limited with thoseof the mas
culine gender who would be likely to fall hopelessly in love with
any virgin that wept like that," his organ of ideality was con
sidered to be equivalent to the size of a mathematical point, which,
paradoxically considered, has neither breadth nor length, height nor
depth, except that which is imaginarj' 1
Looking up towards the rim of the mountain, a white stream
can be seen shooting out, at an altitude of three thousand three
hundred and fifty feet above the road; which, in addition to its
great height, being over a mile distant, appears to the ej'e to be
descending very leisurely and with gentle grace, the two thousand
one hundrec feet of its vertical fall into the basin beneath it ; but,
when standing near, and alraost underneath it, the rapidity of its
descent is reraarkable. The exceeding beauty of its lace-like and
gauzy drapery is siraply enchanting in the early spring. Nearly
perpendicular, tower-like walls, of two thousand three hundred and
fifty feet, frarae a recess sorae three hundred feet deep frora the gen
eral face of the mountain ; and which, beyond question, has been
cut out bj' the stream that forms this lofty water-fall ; assisted, of
course, by other disintegrating elements. The gneiss which here
composes the northern wall of the Valley, being very friable, its
constant crumblings have created a deposit of talus at their base

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 399
over thirteen hundred feet in height, thus tending to confirm the
probability tbat Yo Semite was formed by erosive rather than
by volcanic agencies.
Near the western terminus of the straight stretch of carriage
road across the Ribbon Fall streams, can even now be distinctly
seen THE REMAINS OF AN OLD TERMINAL MORAINE
That at one time extended entirely across the Valley, and formed
an immense dam. by which the whole of the upper end of the
Valley was converted into a lake — possiblj' the most remarkable
one that evei existed upon earth. Tbe height of this moraine-
built dara, when the glaciers carried it there, in the fifty thousands
or hundreds of thousand years ago, raore or less, can only be con
jectured ; but now its crest is only about fifty feet above the pres
ent level of the meadow. During some great flood this lake must
have overflowed, where the Merced River now runs ; and, tearing
away a portion of the moraine, cut the present channel of the
river; as the rapids down which it so irapetuously rushes are
strewn with glacier-rounded bowlders. Standing upon the lower
iron bridge — the floor of which, according to the ^^'heeler U. S.
Survey, is only nine feet lower than that of the upper iron bridge,
near Barnard's — these can readily be noted, and both of the river-
cut ends of the moraine be seen.
As additional inductive data, suggestive of the upper end of
the Valley having once been a lake, maj' be raentioned that, when
the new piece of road was built near the blacksraith's shop, and
the deep hollow there had to be filled up, the material was taken
from the adjacent bank ; where, underneath large blocks of granite,
that had peeled from off the mountain's side, was an immense de
posit of lake sand, not less than eighteen feet in thickness or
depth above the road.
After the cutting away of a portion of the moraine, as above
mentioned, the whole of the waters of the lake must have drained
off", and left the surface of the Valley substantially a^ it now is,
of course minus the wonderful plant life that now adorns it.

400 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
When the low back of the moraine is crossed, on our right
hand we pass the junction of the Milton and Big Oak Flat road
with that of the grand drive around the Valley. And but a short
distance beyond this, on the rocky banks of the river, there is a
fine view of a series of bounding cascades, that extend, apparently,
up to the blufi"s at the farther end, their diamond-tipped tvaves curl
ing around moss-covered bowlders ; and all overarched by lofty
trees. Beyond this a glimpse is obtained of the ever-graceful
Bridal Veil Fall. But on we drive, and near a bright green
meadow, margined by alders, and liberally adorned with wild
floweis that delight in moisture, we come to
THE BLACK SPEINGS.
These take their narae from the color of the rich alluvial
through which the delightfully refreshing waters of two full-
flowing cold springs hurry down a deep-cut gully that crosses
the load. This, in appearance, is only one spring, while in reality
it is formed of two, that boil out from beneath a large flat rock
about a hundred yards distant, on sides opposite to each other-
one spring being chalybeate, and the other pure water. Here
man (including the ladies) and beast find refreshing drink, and
generally pause to take it. Turning to the left, just below this,
at a bend in the road, we find the magnificent
VALLEY VIEW FROM THE MERCED RIVER.
Standing on the western margin of this beautiful stream^
looking eastward, with the rushing, gurgling current in the in-
mediate foreground, there opens up before us one of the mo.st
charmingly impressive scenes that human eyes can look upon. On
the extreme left is the Ribbon Fall, with its broken yet massive
wall; next adjoining comes glorious old El Capitan; in the far
away distance are Cloud's Rest and the Half Dome; then, The
Sentinel, and Sentinel Dorae; the Three Graces, flanked bythe
darkly scowling mountain over which leaps the bright-faced
Bridal Veil Fall ; the whole forming a captivating combination of

Ph<M.^hyS.h. Walker.

I'lioCi^-iypo by Bratton &¦ Rey, S. F

Hklf Dome, and Clouds' Rest, from Glacier Point.
Men Standing on a pRECiPicii of 3,257 Feet.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 401
majesty and loveliness. Turning away from this delighting specta
cle the Pohono Bridge is soon passed, and we enter upon the
WILDLY PICTURESQUE ROAD TO THE CASCADE FALLS.
This is a portion of the Coulterville Turnpike, and is con
structed on the margin of the cliff-walled and bowlder-strewn
canon of the Merced River, where it makes its hurried exit from
the Vallej'. The many attractive forras of its bounding waters,
as they dash, and eddy, and surge, and swirl araong and over
huge blocks of rock, with lofty and frowning bluffs on either side.
whose faces are fringed with trees and shrubs, and beautified by
numerous rivulets, that corae leaping down from ridge to ledge, or
trickling through the furrows, and among the wrinkles of their
weather-aged yet open countenances. And at almost every stretch
and turning of this live oak arched road, are wild flowers and
shrubs in endless forms, combined with such variety of coloring
as to make constant and inspiriting additions to our pleasurable
ride. But the cliraax of all these charraing scenes coraes when
we can catch the first sight of
THE CASCADE FALLS.
These are seen bounding over and adown the mighty crags,
driving out eddies of sun-lighted spray, that wave and toss their
A'apory veils upon the rocks and trees with such graceful abandon
that the ej'e never wearies in watching their aerial frolics.
And it is not a little singular that these cascades, which are formed
from two streams, although having their sources in directly oppo
site directions, join forces at the verge of the cliff, and make the
leap together. From the road to the top of Cascade Falls the alti
tude is seven hundred feet.
In order to enjoy this visit thoroughly the larger portion of
the day should be devoted to it, fortified by a good lunch, and
fishing tackle ; and, best of all, genial and appreciative corapanions.
At the farther end of the fiat, not very far fi'om Vulcan's Work
shop, there is a shady grove of California nutraegs, and other
trees, that make this a pleasant picnic ground.
26

402 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Returning we watch the silver-crested curls of the foaraing
river ; note its dark green pools, and curving eddies, and listen to
the deep psean of its triumphal song, as it rushes on so fearlessly,
I had almost said recklessly, down a cataract of two miles, wherein
is a descent, vertically, of five hundred and fifty feet. As the
ascent by the road frora Cascade Falls to the floor of the Valley
is soraewhat of a tax upon the breath and strength of the horses,
progress up it is naturally slower than when going down, and
gives time and opportunity for noticing many points that were
then overlooked. This is really no staall advantage. We soon,
however, find ourselves on
THE POHONO BRIDGE.
A casual glance at this substantial structure will present an
exaraple of the strength, solidity, and perraanence with which the
Board of Commissioners are making the necessary improvements
about the Valley. Looking down upon the swiftly surging cur
rent below the bridge, or the placid stretch of dark green water
above it, or at its matchless mountainous surroundings, one can
scarcely refrain frora exclairaing, " What a glorious picture gal
lery. Verily ! " THE POHONO AVENUE DRIVE.
The densely raassed shadows of this tree-arched avenue, which
we enter when leaving the bridge,- become as refreshing as the
blossoming dogwoods, which stand on either side, are exhilarating;
and the many-voiced, plant-garnished Moss Springs, and Fern
Springs, gushing out at our side, teraptingly invite us to drink of
their transparent and ice-terapered waters. Still tasting them
retrospectively, we emerge frora an urabrageous forest of ever
greens upon the bright, gra.ssy Bridal Veil Meadow, whence an
apparently new combination of scenic effects is everywhere visi
ble. Here, too, looking south westwardly, we can see the "Inspi
ration Point " of early days, when the trail frora Clark's neared
the very edge of the precipice, and the first sight of glorious Yo
Semite was obtained. Hence, also, can be seen " Mount Beati-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY

403

tude," and the .sublime " Standpoint of Silence," a sjiut first
brought to the notice of visitors by Mr. C. D. Robinson, the artist.
After crossing another terminal, and passing an additional lateral
moraine, we come into full view of
THE POHONO, OR BRIDAL VEIL FALL.
It is impossible to portray the feeling of awe, wonder, and
admiration — almost amounting to adoration — that thrills our
very souls as we look upon this enchanting scene. The grace
fully undulating and wavy sheets of spray, that fall in gauze
like and ethereal folds; now expanding, now contracting; now
glittering in the sunlight, like a veil of diamonds; now changing

Photo. byC. L Weed
DISTANT VIEW OF TaE " POHONO," OR BRIDAL VEIL F.iLL.

Instautaneuua Photo, by Geo, Flake.

Heliotype Co . Eostou.

THE PO-HO-NO, OR BRIDAL VEIL FALL (903 feet high).

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 405
into one vast and many-colored cloud, that throws its misty
drapery over the falling torrent, as if in very modesty, to veil its
unspeakable beauty from our too eagerly admiring sight.
In order to see this to the best advantage, the eye should take
in only the foot of the fall at first, then a short section upward,
then higher, until, by degrees, the top is reached. In this way
the raajesty of the water-fall is raore fully realized and appreciated.
The stream itself — about forty feet in width — reserables an
avalanche of watery rockets, that shoots out over the precipice
above you, at the height of nearly nine hundred feet, and then
leaps down, in one unbroken chain, to the immense bf)wlder-
forraed caldron beneath, where it surges and boils in its angry
fury; throwing up large volumes of spray, over which the sun
builds two or more raagnificent rainbows with which to arch the
abyss. INDIAN DREAD OF PO-HO-NO.
"Pohono," frora whora the stream and water-fall receiveil
their musical Indian narae, is, according to their traditions and
legends, an evil .spirit, whose breath becomes a blighting and
fatal wind ; and who, in consequence, is, in their apprehension, as
much to be dreaded and shunned as the simooms of an African
desert by the Arab. On this account, should necessitj' require
them to pass by it, they do so with a reluctance that fills them
with actual distress ; and thej' will, if unseen by the whites, hurry
past it at the top of their speed. To point at this water-fall
conteraptuously when traveling in the Valley, to their rainds is
certain death. No induceraent could be offered sufiiciently large
to tempt them to sleep near it. In imagination they can hear the
voices of those who have passed into the spirit world, through Po-
hono's destroying breath, warning thera ever to .shun him as the
worst of all enemies. CURIOUS PHENOMENA.
Nor is this so much to be wondered at when for a raoment
we pause to think that their untutored minds have never bi-en
taught, reasoningly, to look from effect to cause. They, therefore.

406 IX THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
see all natural phenomena through the delusive eyes of supersti
tion only. In this connection an illustrative and explanatory
fact should here be given : I have passed this fall at alraost all
hom-s of the night, and at nearly every season of the year, and
for raany years ; and there has not been a dozen occasions in all
that time that I have not experienced a peculiar and strong wind
blowing, within a given radius of about half a mile. When
without that radius scarcely a breath of wind was notice
able ; returning into it, the sarae wind was bending and swaying
the shrubs and trees as before. This has been raany times re
peated on the same evening, and always with the same results.
And it is more than probable, that, from this simple, natural
phenomena, the Indian's imagination has created " Pohono,"
and invested hira with a personality whose every attribute is
clothed with angry enraity to the Indian race.
A PECULIAR AND SLIPPERY MOSS.
On the top of the Pohono Fall, raoreover, there is a short and
densely textured raoss, not raore than half an inch in height or
thickness, which is as soft to the tread as a Turkey carpet; and
which, when dry, will enable any one to go in perfect safety to
the very brink of tbe precipice ; but, if wet, it becomes as slippery,
and as difficult to stand upon, as ice tbat is slanting, so that no
one need expect to preserve his equilibrium on that wet moss.
This, to the Indian apprehension, has been placed there by Pohono
for the purpose of terapting and entrapping the thoughtless and
unwary; and, as tradition has it, with more or less success.
PO-HO-XO AS A MISCHIEVOUS GHOST.
Some Indian women that were out gathering seeds, were led
by curiosity to go to the edge of the fail to look over, when it is
asserted that the shadowy and ghost-like forra of Pohono was seen
to throw one of the Indian woraen down ; and the force of the
current striking her swept her helplesslj' into the abyss below.
Seeing this the other woraen hastened to the Indian carap as rap
idly as possible and related the fearful story with terrible efiect.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 407
In the hopeful expectation of afibrding relief to the unfortunate
one, as courage rose in proportion to the numbers volunteering,
every brave in camp was induced to sally out to search for the
hapless one, determined to rescue her from the weird-like clutches
of Pohono, at any risk. But, although diligent search was raade
for her everywhere, the missing victim was never seen afterwards ;
and it was, and is still, believed that Pohono spirited her away
bodily to some unknown pandemoniura ; and is, raoreover, con
stantly seeking after others for a like purpose. Several Indians
of both sexes having lost their lives here, they believe that this
streara is bewitched by Pohono; and, consequently, to be both
dreaded and shunned at all times.
SOURCES OF THE BRIDAL VEIL FALL.
The creek which forms this graceful and beautiful fall derives
its principal source from some large springs which fiow into a
crescent-shaped and rock-bound lake about thirteen miles distant ;
and although this stream is never entirely dry, it becomes very
low .sometiraes near the end of sumraer. In winter the icicles that
feather both sides of the fall are very attractive, and the raasses
of ice that then form here, in which there are grotto-like caves
roofed with icicles, are resplendently dazzling.
The bright rainbows which are built by the setting sun on
the tops of the eddying mists that roll out from the seething
caldron at the base of the Pohono Fall, at all seasons of the year,
are the most beautifully brilliant between four o'clock and half
past five in the afternoon ; therefore, the raany tempting sights
elsewhere should be raade soraewhat subordinate to this, if it is
deemed desirable that this should be seen to the best advantage.
At other times it is simply an enchantingly charraing and grace
ful water-fall; but, when lighted up by brilliant rainbows, a halo
of glory seeras to enshrine it, that makes it a delightful meraory
forever. Please, therefore, to reraeraber that although the Bridal
Veil Fall " can be seen " at other times (in accordance with the
established custom of society belles!) it "receives" only at the
time mentioned.

408 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
TU-TOCK-AH-NU-LAH'S CITADEL.
The vertical and, at some points, overhanging mountains on
either side of the Pohono, possess almost as much interest as the
fall itself, and add much to the grandeur and magnificence of
the whole scene. A tower-shaped and leaning rock, about three
thousand feet in height, standing at the southwest side of the fall,
sometiraes called the " Leaning Tower," nearly opposite " Tu-tock-
ah-nu-lah," has on its top a nuraber of projecting rocks that very
much resemble cannon. In order to assist in perpetuating the
beautiful legend before given concerning that Indian semi-deity,
we once took the liberty of christening this " Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah's
Citadel." THE "WAITING AND WATCHING" CHIEF.
South of Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah's Citadel, or the Leaning- Tower,
stands a lofty point of exceeding prominence, having the form
and resemblance of a finely proportioned human head. This, the
Indian traditions assert, is Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah waiting in hopeful
faith and patience for the return of the long lost and deeply
mourned Tis-sa-ack, who is still expected to return and bless the
heart and wigwam of its serai-deity and greatest chief, Tu-tock-
ah-nu-lah, with her enrapturing presence.
The iraraense deposits of talus lying here, nearly a quarter
of a mile wide, are deeply cut into and across by three main
streams, through which the whole of the water from the Bridal
Veil Fall impetuously rushes, and forraing other sources of at
traction, can be pleasantly witnessed and enjoyed from the thi-ee
substantial bridges that span those streams.
After rounding the point easterly of the Bridal Veil Fall, al
though both the Ribbon Fall and El Capitan are imraediately in
front of us, we raust not allow their attractive presence to divert
our attention altogether from a portion of ,'Anotber moraine, that
is lying directly on our right: or, to omit noticing the rapids that
are bounding in such frolicsome glee over and among the glacial-
rounded bowlders that were washed from the terminal moraine

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 4u9
before raentioned, as these continue to the El Capitan iron briilt;-e.
and over these rapids trees have constructed an avenue of great
loveliness. VIEW FROM THE EL CAPITAN BRIDGE.
Passing down the Valley on its northern side, and up on its
southern, raay, inadvertently, lead us to overlook the view from
the lower iron, or El Capitan bridge. This would be an unde
sirable oversight, inasmuch as, in addition to the river ends of the
terminal moraine, which it is thought once converted the upper
end of the Valley into a lake, and which are so plainly visible here,
a magnificent view is presented when looking eastwardly not only
of the Merced River in the foreground, but of Cloud's Rest, ten
miles away, in the far-oft" distance. This name of "Cloud's Rest"
is derived from the interesting fact that clouds are frequently
resting upon this raountain when there is not another cloud visible
anywhere else upon the whole vaulted firraaraent. Looking west
another view of the rapids, and of the tree-vista inclosing them,
can be obtained. After crossing the bridge and returning to the
southern side, up which we are supposed to be traveling, we come
to the CATHEDRAL SPIRES,
Two very noticeable and remarkable forraations; towering up
as they do on our right, alone, and unsi.pported by any con
tiguous raountain for over seven hundred feet above their base,
like two iraraense cathedral spires, suggested the appropriate
name. The Indians call them Poo-see-nah Chuck-ka, on account
of their resemblance to the acorn store baskets of that people.
According to the Wheeler U, S. Survey the most southerly one is
two thousand six hundred and seventy-eight feet above the road;
and that northerly two thousand five hundred and seventy -nine
feet. On one occasion (October 6, 1877), the writer, with Mr. S. C.
Walker, the photographer, accorapanied by two Indians as pack
ers, carried photographic apparatus, and ^','orked our waj' up' the
rock-strewn gorge lying at the base of these spires, to the sag or

Photo, by Geo. Fiske

MRRCED RIVER VIEW FROM EL CAPITAN BRIDGE.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 411
hollow between the two highest of the "Three Graces," for its
view. And it was a view, par excellence. The deep-cut, darkly
frowning, and almost verticallj'- walled gorge up which we clirabed
was full of large and lofty sugar pines, firs, cedars, and spruces
that were growing among huge blocks of granite that had at
some tirae peeled from ofi" the sides of the gorge, and, being scat
tered everj'where, made the climb anything but easy. But, when
once there, I believe it no exaggeration, or drearay hyperbole, not
only to assert but to affirra, that frora what scenes I have person
ally witnessed in many lands, and from other individuals havo
heard, as well as from the illu,strations and descriptions that have
been published, I ara convinced that this is probably
ONE OF THE MOST SUBLIMELY IMPRESSIVE VIEWS ON EARTH.
I am aware that this is saying much. I am also aware that
to those who do not know me it will be received with many grains
of qualifying allowance; but, I nevertheless present it as the con
viction of ray unprejudiced judgraent to be an actual, positive, and
undeniable fact, and one to be verified the raoraent the Board of
Commissioners shall have raade the ascent possible by a good trail.
To describe such a scene, therefore, would be simply impossible, so
I will merely outline the principal points seen frora thence. And,
first to be mentioned, are the Cathedral Spires themselves, which
are not only to be seen with their rocky needles standing boldly
out from and above the mountain of which they form a part, but
their entire masonry is visible from apex to base, a height of seven
teen hundred feet ; and which is apparently as true as though
built by a pluraraet board, adjusted to an angle of say eighty-five
degrees, or only five degrees frora the perpendicular. While, on
the other side is a perfect wall, standing at almost as steep an
angle as the spires, and yet reaching to the foreground of the
picture. Deep down the narrow, tree-darkened hollow that is bounded
by these walls, and over the tops of the trees, two thousand nine
hundred feet below lies the Valley, the sheen of its serpentine

412 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
river .sparkling glintingly among the trees, with its meadows and
pools, and gardens, and buildings there before one. All the north
ern rini of the Valley, with the Yo Seraite Fall, North Dome,
Royal Arches, Washington Tower, Mirror Lake, Mt. Watkins,
and the whole distance up Ten-ie-ya Caiion, and the trail to
Glacier Point, lie directly visible on our left; while over the
shoulder whence spring the " Spires," Cloud's Rest, The Sentinel,
Sentinel Dome, Profile, or Fissure, Mountain, can be seen ; and in
the far-off distance stands Ten-ie-ya, Monastery, Cathedral, Echo,
Teraple, Unicorn, and other peaks, stretching to the very crest of
the Sierra Nevada Mountains. To those who can imagine what
a picture could be when filled in by vertical precipices, and jut
ting or overhanging cliffs ; the distance draped with ethereal haze ;
and the whole heightened by the magical effects of light and shade,
it would seem alraost impossible that such a scene could be over
drawn; or the statement questioned that this is one of the most
sublimely impressive views on earth.
Returning in imagination to the Valley again, and still
advancing up its .southern side, we can see other wild and weird-
like peaks and rents in the mountain's face, and among the niches
of every cliff, so that it is not this or that particular rock, or
chasra only, that attracts so rauch, but the infinite and ever-
changing variety of all. Among these, however, one point stands
out somewhat prominently, known as
PROFILE, OR FISSURE, MOUNTAIN.
The first appellation comes from the raany faces that can be
distinctly traced upon its northeastern edge at almost any hour
of the day, but the afternoon's light streaming in between the
points defines thera strongest It is in this crag, moreover, that
the fissure (described on page 344) cuts so deep a crevice. The
crown of this bluff is nearly three hundred feet higher than any
of its illustrious compeers in this immediate vicinity, and its
vertical depth greater than all, if we except El Capitan. The
view from it, therefore, is very fine. A little northerly of this

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

413

is a light-colored spot, whence, in 1857, a chip fell, the debris
from which was said to cover over thirty acres. But as we keep
advancing there is one strikingly prominent mountain before us,
and one that .seems to have been in front of us for miles. It is
"The Sentinel," and near to it the Sentinel Ca.scades, and as they
are in such close proximity we will, if you please, take a brief
glance at both THE SENTINEL, AND SENTINEL CASCADES.
Although the former has Ix'en the most conspicuous for some

Drawu by Thos. Uorau. THE SENTINEL (3,069 feet above the Valley).

414 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
time, let us look first at the two leaping cascades, as they shoot
down frora the ragged-edged crest, three thousand four hundred
feet above us. When these are fullest, their picturesque effect is
simply marvelous; and when their volume is less, the foaming
whiteness is raerely changed to diamond brightness, and thej' are
always beautiful.
The "Sentinel" is the great central landraark of the Valley;
and, whether draped in belts of cloud, or gilded by a golden sunset,
its isolated prorainence is ever iraposingly magnificent. Looking
at it from the objective point whence Mr. Moran 's sketch was taken,
or Mr. Fiske's photograph, its front resembles an obelisk, or the
tower of sorae vast cathedral, of which it forms a part. Its face
is almost vertical for nearly two thousand feet. It is said that
the Indians once used this not only as a watch-tower, but as a
signal station, on all important occasions. They call it Loya.
Now although the climb to its summit is both difficult and
dangerous, one lady — and one only (Mrs. Geo. B. Bayley, of Oak
land, California) — has undertaken the task, and with her
husband, has stood upon its highest point; and there placed a
white flag, that remained until it had been waved into shreds.
Soon we cross the strearas that have formed the Sentinel
Cascades; stop at, or pass, Leidig's Hotel, Fiske's photographic
gallery, Yo Seraite chapel, Galen Clark's residence. Cook's bath
house, Coffraan & Kenney's livery stable, Cook's Hotel, and Mr.
Thoraas HiU's studio — with the Yo Semite Falls and Eagle Peak
nearly all the time in sight. Between Cook's and Barnard's
hotels there is a stretch of tree-arched road, bordered on the right
by a frowning bluff, upon the side and shoulder of which are
unraistakable evidences of the attrition caused by the passage
down of the old-tirae glaciers, that once filled this Valley
with ice. Beyond this we arrive at the store, Mr. Glynn's, the
Ijutcher's and blacksraith's shops, Mrs. Fagersteen's photograph
rooms, Sinning's cabinet shop, the Guardian's office, Mr. C. D.
Robinson's studio, and then Barnard's, a mile beyond which is
the new hotel.

Photo, by Geo. Fmke.

Ueliobype iiiugraviiig Co^ Boston.
THE SENTINEL CASTING REFLECTIONS.

CHAPTER XXIV
MANXERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INDIANS.
I would not enter on my list of friends
(Though graced with polish'd manners and fine sense,
Yet wanting sensibility) the man
Who needlessly sets foot upon a worm. — Cowper's 2'aslc, Bk. VI.
To tell men that they cannot help themselves is to fling them into reckless
ness and despair. — FaonD's Short Studies on Great Subjects.
Be noble! and the nobleness that lies
In other men, sleeping, but never dead,
Will rise in majesty to meet thine own. — Lowell's Sonnet, I V.
Shortly after taking up our permanent residence in Yo Sem
ite an Indian presented himself one morning, when the following
colloquy ensued: —
"You li-kee Indian man wor-kee? " " Are you a good worker?"
"You no li-kee rae, you no kee-pee me, sab-be (understand)?"
Well! that seeras fair enough. How much-e you want, you
work-e one day?" "One dol-lar I tink wa-no (good)." "All
right. What's your name? " "Topi." " Well, Tom, you corae
work-e to-morrow morning; sa-be, ' to-morrow ' morning? " "Seb
{Si, in Spanish), rae sab-be." "Seven o'clock?" " Seh, me
sab-be." "You better come before seven, Tom, then you get-
tee good breakfast; Indian raan work-e better, he eat-ee good
breakfast." At this latter proposition Tom's somewhat somber face lighted
up with a glow of child-like pleasure; and, when the following
morning came, he was on hand both for his meal and labor
also. Finding him to be the most faitbful Indian worker that I
(416)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 417
had ever seen — for, as a rule, Indians do not take kindly to steady
labor — after sorae ten or twelve days, as we were becoming short
of desirable articles for the household, and our packer was unwell,
questions were put and answered thus: "Tora, you sa-be packing?"
" Po-co " (little). " You sa-be Big Oak Flat, Tom? " " Seh. Me
sab-be Big Oak Flat." " You li-kee go Big Oak Flat, get-tee me
some sugar, sorae fiour, and such things? " " You li-kee me go, I
go." "All right, Tom, you get-tee five horses — sa-be 'five'"
(counting the nuraber on my fingers). "Seh. Me sab-be." "Four
you pack, one you ride, sa-be? " " Seh. Me sab-be."
Proraptly at seven o'clock Tom was on hand, with the horses ;
when I handed him a letter, and explained to hira that that paper
would tell the store-keeper at the settlements the kind and quan
tity of articles wanted, and which would be handed to him for
packing nicely, and bringing safely to us. Then, laying five
.S2() pieces, one by one, upon the palm of his hand, I said to
him, " Tom, you ta-kee these five $20 pieces to Mr. Murphy,
store-keeper, at Big Oak Flat (as Mr. Murphy no sa-be me), and
they will pay for what he give you to bring us." " Seh. Me
sab-be." Tom's eyes .sought mine with bewildering yet gratified
astonishraent (while they filled with tears) ; as though apparently
questioning the possibility that I could trust hira, an Indian,
with five horses, and as many $20 pieces. He seemed to have
suddenly grown several inches taller, and raore erect than I had
ever seen him ; as with an onen and manly look he slowly re
sponded, " Wa-no. Me go. Me ta-kee money. Me pack-ee sugar
— flour, here."
When Tora returned with everything perfectly straight, and
in good order, he was evidently as proud and delighted as a New
foundland (or any other) dog could have been with two tails.
His face had a smile all over it — an uncoraraon sight in an Indian.
From that time Tora was not only my friend, but a friend to
every member of the family; and he took as much interest in
everything as though it was his own. The confidence reposed in
him had completely conquered the Indian, by making him to feel
that he was a man.
27

418 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
A few weeks after this he wanted to pay a visit to his people,
whose carap was sorae forty miles below; and, as he said, "eat-ee
some acorn blead (bread, as they seldom sound the r) and go hab
fandango " (Indian dance). It m.ay be cause for wonder that the
best of good food, when provided and cooked by white people, is
only satisfactory for a tirae, to the Indian; he longs (not for
"the flesh-pots of Egypt," perhaps, but) for "acorn blead." It is
an apparent physical necessity to hira.
HOW TOM'S life was ONCE SAVED.
Upon Tom's return an almost uncontrollable excitement
seeraed to quiver through his whole frarae, while the perspiration
exuded frora his hair, and rolled down his somber face in streams.
Breathlessly sinking upon a chair, a wild, agonizing frenzy, dis
torting every muscle of his features; while gleams of fire seem
ingly shot from both his eyes, as soon as his lungs could perform
their office, and his tongue and voice could find utterance, he
gasped out, "Oh! Mr. H., Mr. H., Indian men come kill-ee me."
"Hullo! Tom, what on earth have you been doing, that Indians
should want to kill you ? " Gathering breath and effbrt gradually,
yet simultaneously, he exclairaed, "Oh! Indian raan say I kill-ee
one Indian ; I no kill-ee Indian raan, Indian raan kill-ee Big Mead
ows — I no go Big Meadows — I go Bull Creek. They tink I
kill-ee hira, though, and Indian men^five (counting on his fingers)
— corae kill-ee rae." " Are you sure, Tora, you no kill-ee Indian
man? " "I sure I no kill-ee Indian. How I kill-ee Indian raan
Big Meadows — I no go Big Meadows? I sure I no kill-ee hira.
You hi-de rae soraewhere? " " You sure you no kill-ee Indian
man, Tora, eh? " "I sure I no kill-ee him." "All right, Tom,
then I hide you somewhere."
This had been successfully accomplished but about twenty
rainutes when up came the five Indians mentioned by Tora,
"arraed to the teeth," as the saying is, sweating, and alraost out
of breath; when oneof thera inquired, in pretty good English,
" Have you seen Indian Tora ? " " Oh ! yes, Tom was here about

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 41 y
half an hour ago. Is there anything the matter? " ' Yes, Tom
killed an Indian at Big Meadows." " Yes? Why, Tom told jne
he did not kill the Indian at Big Meadows ; he said that some
Indians thought so, but that he was not at the Big Meadows —
he went only to Bull Creek." "Yes. Tom killed an Indian
man at Big Meadows; and if we find Tom we shall kill him.
That is Indian fashion." " But, Tom told me that he did not go
to the Big Meadows, and did not kill the Indian there ; and if you
kill Tom, and Tora did not kill the Indian, as you say, then the
Sheriff of Mariposa will take you to jail, and by and by they will
hang you, as they ought to do, if you kill an innocent raan. You
Indian raen too fast, and too hot. You cool down a little. Then,
when you find the man who did kill the Indian, have hira taken
to Mariposa; and if found guilty they will hang hira and save
you all the trouble. You take my advice, and don't kill any
man, especially when he may be entirely innocent of the crime
with which you charge him."
Although they took reluctant departure for the present, they
evidently thought that Tom was not far away; as they were fre
quently seen near, and upon the lookout. In about three days
after their first appearance they absented themselves, and nothing
more was seen of any Indian for over a week ; when two Indian
women came to me and asked if Indian Tom had been there. I
replied that he had — about a week ago. " So," I suggested, as
though questioning the truth of Tora's relation, "so Tora killed
an Indian at Big Meadows, eb? " " No, no, no; Tom no kill-lee
Indian Big Meadows. Two Indian men see Sara Wells kill-lee
Indian at Big Meadows — Tom no kill-lee him." " Then if I see
Tora I ara to tell him that, eh?" "Yes, yes, I Tom's wife."
"Oh! that is the way the land lies is it? All right, if I see
Tom I tell-lee him."
Tora was soon seen, and the case stated, when he wished rae
to invite thern over. Asking thera if they were not hungry (and
it was a rare sight to see an Indian that was not), and receiving
an affirraative answer, they were soon eating where Tom could

420

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

catch sight of thera without being seen ; 'and in a few minutes
afterwards they were all walking happily together in the bright
sunshine as fearlessly free and as happy as children.
When the Vvould-be-avenging Indians made their reappea;r-
ance a few days subsequent to this denouement, they acknowledged,
though soraewhat reluctantly, that Tom was proven to be entirely
innocent of the crime ; as two other Indians had seen the murder
coraraitted by another raan, whose reserablance to Tom had caused
the raistaken identity, that would have cost the innocent man his
life, had they found hira at the tirae of their irapetuous search.
HIS GRATEFUL EETURN THEREFOR.
This thrilling incident very naturally raade Tora's heart warm
kindly and strongly to
wards the one who had
afforded him such timely
succor in the hour of his
extrerae need ; and there
can be but little doubt
that his unwearying de
votion and faithful serv
ices thereafter, in the
best interests of all our
family, were cause of
many raysterious ques
tionings araong those
to whom the secret was
unrevealed. The asser
tion, therefore, that
gratitude is an absent
guest to every Indian's
heart, is not true. This
heavenly quality welled
up, bounteously, not
grudgingly, in Tom's
heart, and flowed peren- INDIAN TOM.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 421
nially in kindly actions ; and that, too, while unsealing tbe fountain
of his lips. Tora had succeeded in conquering the natural reti
cence of his race; and it is to this that I ara so largely indebted
for many interesting facts concerning it, that are embraced in tbis
chapter. I, therefore, with pleasure introduce
INDIAN TOM.
Owing to his raany years of faithful service in our faraily, all
of the other Indians (there being raany " Tom's ") called him
"Tom Hutchings! " and as he so calls hiraself he evidently can
not be asharaed of it. Tora does not claim to be a full Yo
Semite Indian ; inasrauch as, although his raother belonged to that
tribe, his father was a Mono (Pah-uta). After this, I trust not
uninteresting, introduction, please allow rae to present a few facts
concerning THE MANNEES AND CUSTOMS OF THE INDIANS.
The India;^ Camp, and its People — Probable Numbers — Physical Charac.
TERISTICS — ^Acorns their Staple Breadstuff, How Prepared and Cooked
— KiTCHAvi — Pine Nuts — Esculent Plants — Grass and Other Seed.s —
Wild Fruits — Fish — Game — Miscellaneous Edibles.
I have learned
To look, on Nature, hearing oftentimes
The still, sad music of humanity;
Not harsh nor grating, though of ample power
To chasten and subdue. —Wordsworth.
One of the many attractive features of Yo Semite is the In
dian camp, and its interesting people— the original owners and
first settlers. Deplorable as the fact raay be, however, there are
less than twenty living of a tribe that, in 1851, numbered nearly
five hundred.* The remnant being representative of the prin
cipal customs, occupations, manner of living, habits of thought,
traditions, legends, and systems of belief, not only of their own
people and the surrounding tribes, but of the California Indians
generally, a visit to their village, and a sight of its inhabitants, will
*The causes of this astonishing decrease are mainly given on pages 77, 78.

422 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
be the raore inviting and instructive. Before presenting our
selves at THE INDIAN CAMP,
As we would not willingly do thera even an unintentional in
justice, let us not forget that they have always been nomadic, and
have continuously camped out; that any appearance suggestive
of untidiness is to be attributed more to circumstances than to men
tal antagonisra to a higher social standard. They have no neatly
furnished private apartments to which they can retire, and culti
vate the attractive mysteries of the toilet. Like people of good
common sense they accept their position, and raake the best of it.
Even araong our own friends, those who have sought the exhilarat
ing elixir of raountain air, or rambled far from human habitations
in pathless forests, to luxuriate upon the sublime or beautiful,
know how difficult it is, at such a time, to keep comfortably clean.
It was an abstruse problem to Mark Twain, you remember, who
had passed through sundry such experiences, to solve the possibil
ity of the Israelites keeping half-way clean while " camping out "
forty years in the " Wilderness " ! And the Indians have probably
discovered, that necessity has corapelled this for more than as
many generations. With these preliminary suggestions, let us
now seek their picturesque habitations.
Their principal location is just below the old, or " Folsom "
Bridge, on the north side of the Valley, about half a mile westerly
of Leidig's Hotel. The usual and most enjoyable manner and
tirae of visiting them is during the afternoon drive, described else
where. Just before reaching their encampraent, some singular
structures, built upon posts, arrest our attention. These are
THE ACORN STORE BASKETS,
The platforms of which are about four feet from the ground.
They are generally twelve feet in height, and three and a half
feet in diameter. The sides are forraed of bushes, interlaced and
covered with pine boughs, inverted ; the needles of which prevent
squirrels from clirabing up, yet conduct the rain down, and to the

THE YO SEMITE VALLEV.

423

INDIAM WOMAN <iATHERI.\G ACORNS.
outside of the basket. The top is roofed by pieces of pine bark,
cloth, or other material, securely fastened to the sides. The cen
ter of these rude contrivances being hollow, acorns are safely
stored therein. These are called by the Indians poo-see-na
chuck-ka. ACORNS FORM THE STAPLE FOOD FOR INDIANS,
Not only in and around Yo Seraite, but through all the raount
ain districts of the State. Nor is this peculiarity confined to
those dwelling west of the great chain of the Sierras, inasrauch
as those upon the eastern slope erabrace the opportunity of sup
plementing any lack in piiions, or pine nuts (Pinus monophylla),
which constitute their principal article of diet there, for acorns;
oaks being alraost unknown on that side of the mountains. It
is a fortunate or providential coincidence, too, that whenever the

424 IN THE HEART OF TIIE SIERRAS.
pinon crop fails on the eastern slope, acorns are generally abun
dant on the western, and vice versa. It is not aii unusual sight at
Yo Semite for a single file — and all travel single file — of Mono
Indians (a branch of the Pah-utas, commonly called Pi-utes),
numbering from twenty to fifty, of almost all ages, and of both
sexes, to pass along the Valley. They corae for acorns, mainly.
Nor do they corae empty-handed, as the conical baskets, and dis -
colored sacks, at the backs of their females, abundantly prove ;
for they are loaded down with pinons, Kit-chavi, and other articles,
as presents, or for exchange. About the Kit-chavi there is raore
to be said hereafter.
The little group of huts, constructed of cedar bark set on
end, being the Indian camp, let us advance towards it soraewhat
reservedly, as a rude intruder is never welcome; and it requires
quite an effort on their part to conquer their unpretentious diffi
dence and natural raodesty. Remember this. After the quiet
smile of welcome is given, a glance around will reveal to us that
the women are all busy and fully occupied. Like many other
housekeepers, their work seems never done. This one is skillfully
plying her nimble fingers upon a water-tight basket ; that, in deftly
arranging the frame-work of one of another kind; as these people
still rely entirely upon theraselves for all such articles, notwith
standing the raanifold contrivances brought within their reach by
civilization. The woraan at our left has evidently caught up the
spirit of her more favored sisters, and is adroitly arranging the
parts of a bright calico dress (nearly all Indians revel in bright
colors) ; that, in repairing or turning one. Old habits are steadily,
yet noticeably, passing away, and new — may we not devoutly hope
better — ones are taking their places. That feraale with a shallow
basket at her side, half filled with acorns, is dexterously preparing
thera for to-morrow's meal, by speedily setting each particular acorn
on end, and with a light tap from a small pebble separating the husk
from the kernel. Thus freed and cleaned, they are next spread
upon a ro3k to dry. As these are to be fittingly prepared for
huraan food, it may not be uninteresting to trace the different

Ph.'t... by (.V,. Fislif.

1 li.,l.:t\f'.' ly r.'tilo'tf" K.y.S. r.

iNDiHN Storehouses for Icorns Poo-see-nh Chuck-kh.
(See pages 422-3.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

425

proces.ses by which this is successfully accomplished. First, then,
THE GRINDING.
The raorning raeal being satisfactorily disposed of, nearly
every available feraale in
cauip, each carrying her load,
trudges off to an adjac jut rock
that is capacious, smooth, as
nearly horizontal in position
as possible, and in which sun
dry mortar-like holes are
worn. This being protected
from the scorching .sun — and
huraan eyes — by bushes, or
young pine trees, each worker
takes her seat near the raor
tar ; then, arraed with a rock-
pestle, weighing from six to
ten pounds, the toilsome labor
of grinding acorns into raeal
coraraences, by pounding
thera. This process is neces
sarily very slow. By this
primitive raethod grass and
other seeds are also ground
into flour or raeal.
When the acorns thus pulverized are about the fineness of
ordinary corn meal, as the acorn flour needs to be relieved of its
bitter tannin to prevent constipation, it is carried to the nearest
stream where there is an abundance of clean white sand , in which
a hollow is scooped, about three feet in width, by six inches in
depth, and which is patted evenly and compactly down, prepara
tory to a continuation of the intended process. Meanwhile other
Indians have been building a fire, and alraost covering it \\'ith
roundish rocks from four to six inches in diaraeter. These are

INDIAN WOMAN CAP.RYINQ ACOKNS.

426

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

made nearly white
with heat. Water
tight baskets, half
filled with water, are
then brought, into
which a suitable
quantity of the acorn
meal is well stirred.
The hot rocks are
then dropped in, and
moved around, until
the whole mass is
made, and kept, sim
mering (without al
lowing it to boil) for
nearly half an hour,
when it is all dipped
out, and carefully indian woman grinding acorns and seeds.
poured into the shallow sand-bowl, if it may be so called ; to which
hot water is constantly added, for the purpose of infiltrating
the raeal ; and by percolation reraoving the tannin therein con
tained, into the sand beneath. This process is repeated until every
perceptible vestige of discoloration by the tannin is removed.
INDIANS PREPARING AND COOKING THEIR ACORN BREAD.
The raeal thus divested of its bitter principle and deleterious
qualities, is ready for removal frora its sand-basin to a basket.
To accoraplish this, free of sand, requires very careful raanip
ulation ; but, after reraoving all the soft, pulpy material possible,
by cautious handling, without including a grain of sand, the
remainder is stirred rapidly round in a conical basket, half filled
with water ; when the meal settles on the sides of the basket, and
the sand down into the inverted cone at the bottom. In this way
the whole is secured with but trifling waste of material.
It is now ready to be made into bread, or, rather, mush.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

INDIANS PEEPARINQ AKD CCOKINO THETR ACOEN BEEAD. I
Water-tight baskets, containing the requisite quantity of clear
water, are again pressed into service, and hot rocks added as
before, until it is made to boil, this tirae. When the raeal is suffi •
ciently cooked, it is allowed to cool enough to handle, and is
then served up by setting it down upon the ground ; around which
everj'- expected participant begins to assemble in anticipation of
the feast ^provided. Before comraencing to eat, on all great
occasions at least, the raush is first sprinkled over with Kit-chavi.
As this is one of the mysteries of Indian cuisine, it is not to be
expected that every one is familiar with its nature; a little expla
nation, therefore, of what this condiment consists, may raake the
matter soraewhat plainer. KIT-CHAVI.
On the western borders of Mono Lake (whence raany of the
Indian visitors of Yo Seraite corae), there is an extensive stretch
of foara forras every suramer ; and soon thereafter it is covered
with swarms of fiies ; which, when they rise en masse, literally

428 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
darken the air; these, "fiy-blow" the foara; and, later in the sea
son, raake it alive with larvse and pupae from one end to the other.
At such times every available native, young and old, and of both
sexes, repairs to Mono Lake with baskets of all kinds and sizes,
old coal-oil cans, and such articles ; and, collecting this foam with
its living tenants, repair to the nearest fresh water streara (Mono
Lake water being irapregnated with strong alkalies), and there
wash away the foam, while retaining all the larvae and pupae.
This is spread upon flat rocks to dry; and when cured, is called
"Kit-chavi," and thenceforward forras oneof the luxuries of Indian
food, and becoraes their substitute for fresh butter !
Before participating therefore in the festivities of a morning
or evening meal, this appetizing addition is made to their acorn
mush-bread ; when all sit, or kneel, around the unctuous viands,
and with his or her two front fingers, converted for the time being
into a spoon, help theraselves to this unique repast, all eating from
the same basket.
Wild greens, clover, gnats, grubs, and mushrooras; grass,
weed, and other seeds, next to acorns, are their staples for food
purposes, and the best they can comraand for winter consumption.
To obtain these the women and children beat them into broad-
topped baskets ; and, after taking them to camp, clean, dry, and
store them like acorns.
Bulbous grass roots, eaten i-aw, are a favorite food; from
the digging of which, so frequently seen in early days, sprung the
despised term "Digger Indians," now so generally, and so un
worthily in use to designate the lowest class of mountain Indians
throughout the State. All kinds of wild fruits, excepting the
wild coffee, Rhamnus Californica, are partaken of with avidity.
The young shoots of the Hosackea vetch, used as greens, are con
sidered the finest of all native vegetables.
GRASSHOPPERS A GREAT FOOD LUXURY.
These are eaten as raeat and cooked in various ways. Sorae
tiraes they are caught, threaded on a string, and hung over a fire

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

429

^?

until they are slightly roasted, then eaten from the string. At
others the grass is set on fire, which both disables and cooks them ;
when they are picked up and eaten, or stored for future use.
The most eflectual method for securing grasshoppers, when
they are abundant, is to dig a hole sufficiently deep to prevent
their jumping out; then to forra .a circle of Indians, both old and
young, with a bush in each hand,
and commence driving them
towards it until they fall in, and
are there caught. They are
thence gathered into a sack, and
saturated with salt water; after
which a trench is dug, in which
a good fire is built, and when
it is sufficiently heated, the ashes
are cleaned out, a little grass put
upon the bottom, when the grass
hoppers are put in, and cov
ered with hot rocks and earth
until they are sufficiently cooked.
They are then eaten in the same
manner as we eat shrimps ; or are
put away to mix with acorn or
seed mush, when they are ground
into a kind of paste. Deer, bear,
rabbits, rats, squirrels, gophers, and almost every other aniraal,
excepting the polecat; with birds of every kind, and fish, are
necessarily raade subservient to their physical wants.
When the larger game is hunted, a large district is surrounded
by every available Indian, and experts with the bow and arrow
are stationed at a given point ; when, by fire and noise, the aflfrighted
animals are driven towards that spot, where they are killed.
These general hunts take place inthe fall of the year, when every
thmg being dry is easily ignited, and when a winter supply of
meat is needed. It is to this systera of procuring garae that so

INDIANS CATCHING GRASSHOPPERS FOR
FOOD.

430 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
many forest trees have been burned in past years; but the sheep-
herder's vandal hands, mainly, are perpetuating this infamously
wanton practice at the present time. Hunting, however, is too
active an eraployraent to square with their ideas of ease and
corafort; so that to comport with these, and yet secure their game,
they drive it into swampy places, where they mire down and are
then caught and killed. INDIAN FANDANGOS.
To the casual observer, a fandango, or Indian ball, is a wild,
careless, free-and-eavsy dancing and feasting party, and nothing
more. To the Indians it is a friendly gathering together of the
remnants of their race, for the purpose of cementing and perpetu
ating the bonds of family and tribal union raore closely ; and at
the sarae time to orally transmit to posterity the noble deeds and
valorous actions of their ancestors.
Any particular tribe wishing to, give a fandango sends mes
sengers to all the chiefs of the surrounding tribes, to whom they
wish to give the invitation ; accorapanied by a bundle of reeds or
sticks, which indicates the number of days before it takes place ;
but sometimes notches are cut in a twig, or knots are tied in a
string, for that purpose.
Extensive preparations are immediately entered upon for a
grand feast, and everything within the limit of Indian purvey
ance is pressed into service ; nor is it to be supposed that those
giving the invitation are the onlj' contributors, by any means;
inasmuch as every attendant takes soraething to make up the
general variety ; and to add to that valuable quality in an Indian's
estimation — quantity. At such times, too, presents of blankets
and other valuables are brought and exchanged.
At these festive seasons, bothmalesandfemales dress themselves
according to their most extravagant notions of paint and feathers.
Several weeks are frequently consuraed in making head-dresses,
and other ornaments, of shells, beads, top-knots of quails, and the
heads and wings of red-headed woodpeckers. When the great
day of the feast arrives, groups of Indians may be seen wending

TIIE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

431

their hilarious way to the festive scene; and as many have to
travel fifteen or twenty miles, the whole first day is consumed
in assembling together, and gossiping over family matters. In
the evening, when all are assembled, the "band" (which con
sists of about a dozen men, with reed whistles, and wooden
castanets, with which they beat the tirae) begins a monotonous
few-feiv with their whistles ; while the dancers follow their leader
with the castanets, and with them keep tirae with a perpetual
hi-yah, hi-yah, until theyare out of breath, when they take their
seats for a rest, and listen to their orator for the occasion.

These fandangos are generally kept up for a number of days ;
and, as frequently happens at others rauch more fashionable, it is
at .such times that raany an Indian youth and maiden fall irre
trievably in love, and seek to unite their hands and fortunes in
wedlock.- When this is understood, and the union receives the
approbation of their parents and friends, both are allowed a per
sonal inspection of each other in private; and if this proves satis
factory, the fortunate lover gathers together all his worldly wealth,
and repairs with it to his expected future father-in-law. The old
man generally appears surprised, hesitates, inspects the candi
date for his daughter's hand from head to foot, then the amount

432

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

INDIAN MARRIAGE CEREMONY

of earthly goods the lover-has brought hira, as an equivalent for his
daughter's hand and heart. After some eloquent pleading, the
old man's thoughtful face generally relaxes into a smile, and
as soon as he has accepted the presents, the cereraony is ended,
and thenceforward they are considered man and wife.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 433
Strange as it may .seem, the Indian men will not infrequently
gamble away their wives, as they do other kinds of property, (for
they are inveterate gamblers) ; and they are far too apt to con
sider tbe wife but little better than a chattel for barter and sale.
Quite often a given number of Indian men agree to fight for a
certain number of Indian women, ou which occasion each party
puts up equally. As soon as either side is victorious, the women,
who have been awaiting this " hazard of the die " as interested spec
tators, arise, and without hesitancy, or question, accorapany the
victors ; and are apparently contented with the result. To ob
tain woraen was frequently the only cause for war araong thera.
And when any particular tribe ran short of squaws, it uncere
moniously stole some from an adjoining tribe; which, on the very
earliest favorable occasion, returned the doubtful compliraent,
and soraetimes with considerable interest. Polj'gamy is quite
common, sorae of the chiefs having frora three to seven wives, the
number being limited only, (as among the Mormons,) by their
ability to support them. INDIAN DOCTORS.
This profession is very popular among the Indians, and al
though their knowledge of raedical science, even in its rudest and
most primitive form, is much raore liraited than with the tribes
east of the Rocky Mountains, they sometimes perform a few
simple cures, and on this account are looked up to with consider
able respect. The Indians have great confidence in their " raedi
cine men," and oelieve thera endowed with the power of insuring
health, or of causing sickness, or even death ; but if they think that
the doctors have used this power arbitrarily, or unworthily, they are
uncereraoniously put to death. Their raethods for relieving pain
and curing disease are as unique as they would be arausing to
a skillful practitioner. They have, however learned a little of
the sophistry and finesse of the profession, and use it with con
siderable skill. As illustrative of this, as they generally scarify,
¦to suck away all pain, they will sometimes put small stones, or

434 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
bits of stick, or wild coffee berries, into their mouth, and produce
these to the patient to induce him to believe that this or that has
been the cause of all his pain ; and as he has been successful in re
moving the cause, the pain will naturally cease 1
THEIR RELIGIOUS BELIEFS.
They all believe in a good spirit, and also in a very evil
spirit. The good spirit, according to their apprehension, is al
ways good; and, therefore, ever to be loved and trusted, without
fear or dread ; that, consequently, there is no use in giving them
selves any trouble about him. But not so with the evil spirit, as
in his nature are concentrated all the bad qualities of twenty
Pohono's condensed into one ; and, therefore, he is the one that
needs watching, and conciliating if possible.
They also believe in a pleasant caraping ground after death,
one that is most bountifully supplied with every corafort, and where
they will again meet all their relatives and friends, and live with
thera in ease and plenty forever. This camping ground is pre
sided over by the good spirit, a semi-deity or chief of great power
and kindness, and who is ever making them supremely happy.
They also believe that the evil spirit is doing everything that
he can to make them miserable, and keep them away from this
happy camping ground ; that, therefore, their principal religious
duties consist in avoiding, circumventing, or placating him.
They believe that the heart is the imraortal part, and that if
the body is buried the evil one stands perpetual guard over the
grave, and will eventually secure the heart as his wished-for prisoner
and prize. With the view of defeating this wicked purpose, they
invariably burned the dodies of their dead (a practice that has
been largely discontinued in later years, and the example of the
whites followed, in burying thera), thinking by noises and grotesque
raotions, accompanied by expressions of poignant sorrow, to attract
the attention of the evil one while the body is burning, and thus
give the heart the opportunity of slipping away unobserved.
Hence their custom of cremation.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

43.T

When an Indian is known to be near his departure to the
spirit land — as they are all in a certain sense more or less spirit
ualists — his head is generally pillowed in the lap of his wife, or
dearest friend ; when, all standing around commence a low, mourn
ful chant upon the virtues of the dying ; and with this soothing
lullaby falling upon his ears, he passes to the deep sleep of death.
As soon as his heart has ceased to beat, the sad news is carried
by runners to all his relatives, both far and near ; and the low
chant is changed to loud and frantic wailings; accompanied by
violent beatings of the chest -with their clenched fists ; while with
tearful eyes directed upwards, they apostrophize the spirit of the
departed one in their own behalf.
It is a singular fact that although some Indians now bury
their dead, an-d others burn them, in either case the .same prepara
tions are raade for final disposition, which are as follows: A
blanket is spread upon the ground, and the corpse laid thereon.

PREPARING THE BODY FOR CREMATION.

436

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

when a brother, or other near relative, carefully, but firmly, folds
the knees up towards the chin, places the arms down over them,
and then binds the body and limbs together as tightly as it is possi
ble .so to do. All this time the wild howling and wailing continues
until the body is ready ; then, for about twenty minutes, or half
an hour, the mourning ceases ; and not a sound is allowed to in
trude upon the stillness and rude solemnity of the scene. At a
given signal all rise simultaneously ; the women to renew their
wailings, and the men to build the funeral pyre, or to prepare the
grave. When the fuel, composed mainly of pitch pine and oak, is
about two feet high, every sound again ceases ; and, amid a death
like stillness, the men place the body on the pyre. This accom
plished, additional wood is piled upon and around it, until all
except the face is completely covered up. Then, slowly and
soleranly, the nearest and oldest relative advances, with torch in
hand, and with deep yet suppressed eraotion sets the wood on fire.

I.NDIANS BCRNING THEIR DEAD.
The moment the first cloud of smoke eddies up into the air,
the discordant bowlings of the women becomes deafening, and al
most appalling; while the men, for the most part, look on with
sullen and unbroken silence.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 437
Those who are nearest and dearest to the fire-consuming
dead, with long sticks in their hands, dance frantically around ;
and occasionally stir up the fire, or turn the burning body over,
to insure its more speedy consumption by the devouring element ;
hoping by these united movements to attract the evil one's atten
tion, and give the heart the opportunity of eluding his watchful
glances, and of escaping unseen to the happy camping ground.
After the body is nearly consumed, the blackened remains
are taken from the fire, rolled up in one of their best blankets,
or cloths, and allowed to cool a little ; when his wives, or those
nearest and dearest, segregate the unconsumed portions, and wrap
every piece separately in strings of beads, or other ornaments ;
they then place thera carefully in a basket that has been most beau
tifully worked for the occasion, with any other valuables possessed
by the departed one ; and the fire being rebuilt, the basket and
its contents are placed upon it ; with blankets, cloths, dresses, bows
and arrows, and every other article that has been touched by the
deceased, and all are then committed to the flames. When these
are burned, every unconsumed log is carefully scraped, the ashes
swept together, and the whole, with the exception of the portion
always reserved for mourning, are then placed in another basket
and carefully buried. All Indians, without exception, cast the
personal property of the deceased, as well as presents of their own,
into the grave; so that he raay want nothing when he enters the
great camping ground, believed to be soraewhere in the far dis
tant West. The reserved ashes being mixed with pitch is spread
over the faces of the feraale relatives as a badge of mourning;
and which, although hideous to our sight, is sacred to theirs ; and
is allowed to remain until it wears oflT, which is generally about
six months. Sometimes the old squaws renew their mourning
from the cheeks to the ears. A raarried woman, when her hus
band dies, invariably cuts off her hair. Mr. Galen Clark, one of
the oldest residents of Yo Semite, assured the writer that when
in their deepest lamentations for their dead, they cry out, " Him-
mah-lay-ah," " Him-mah-lay-ah," gesticulating westward.

CHAPTER XXV.
VEENAL AND NEVADA FALLS.
These are thy glorious works. Parent of good.
— Milton's Paradise Lost, Bk. V, Line 153.
The rustle of the leaves in summer's hush
When wandering breezes touch them, and the sigh
That filters throu h the forest, or the gush
That swells and sinks amid the branches high, —
'Tis all the music of the wind, and we
Let fancy float on this .(Eolian breath. — M. G. Brainard's Mtisic.
But on and up, where Nature's heart
Beats strong amid the hills. — Richard Milnes.
As a rule it is desirable that the trips to Mirror Lake, and to
the Vernal and Nevada Falls, should be taken conjointly; inas
much as the two can be comfortably included on the sarae day.
Besides this when we are at the Tis-sa-ack Bridge, after the Tis-
sa-ack Avenue drive we are two miles on our way to those falls.
To avoid doubling the two miles of distance, between Barnard's
and the Tis-sa-ack Bridge, while utilizing the stretch gained, as
the reraaining two and three-fifths miles to Snow's Hotel have to
be taken on horseback, our saddle animals should meet us at the
bridge. TIMID PEOPLE HAVE NO CAUSE FOR FEAR.
As many persons who visit Yo Seraite have never sat on a
horse before, and many others have been entirely out of practice
of later years, and in consequence are possibly a little nervous
about it, it seeras to me to be eminently proper that I should
here invite their encouraging confidence in themselves, by stating
that eaclj horse is well trained, and knows where to set down
every foot ; so as to insure not only his own safety but that of the
(438)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 439
precious burden he is bearing. Then, it should be borne in mind,
that, notwithstanding the many, many thousands who have lid-
den up and down these mountain trails, there has never been a
serious accident upon any one of thera, in the thirty -one years
this Valley has been opened to the public. Think of this.
BY THE ANDERSON TRAIL TOWARDS VERNAL FALL.
Owing to the intersecting connection that has recently been
made between the new Anderson trail up the northern bank of
the raain Merced River, and the Snow trail on the southern bank,
at Register Rock, a new, and if possible, raore picturesque ride
than the former one along the base of Echo Wall, has been opened
up. Therefore, instead of crossing to the southern end of Tis-
sa-ack Bridge, we will, if you please, take the broad and well-
graded Anderson trail at the northern end of the bridge. Maples,
dogwoods, oaks, pines, and cedars edge in and arch over our path ;
and near Cold Spring — the only one on this route — grows a fine
clump of tall and feathery Woodwardia ferns. By looking
back a few yards beyond this the Valley has the serablance of a
forest walled in ; while over its distant boundary the Yo Seraite
Fall is leaping.
Passing just immediately along the foot wall of Grizzly
Peak, where the horse-path has been hewn out of solid granite ;
or high supporting walls have been built upon it, to make a
thoroughfare possible here, it can be readily seen how great were
the difficulties to be surraounted.
The late George Anderson, who engineered and con.structed
it, and after whom it will probably be naraed, raade a contract to
complete it to Snow's Hotel for $1,500. This, however, was all
expended before Grizzly Peak was passed. A similar amount
was voted him for finishing it, but this also was found to be far
from sufficient; he was then engaged to continue it, ud. libitum,;
but, after some $5,000 had been expended upon it, and the granite
wall along the north side of the Vernal Fall, over which the trail
was to run for ov^er eleven hundred feet, had scarcely been

440 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
touched, further work upon it was for the present suspended.
This broad and substantial trail, however, remains a monumental
acknowledgment of Anderson's skill, pluck, indomitable will,
and undiscourageable perseverance.
This trail (almost wide enough for a wagon road), pre
sents sublimely delightful pictures of the rushing, boiling, surg
ing river; and the finest of all views, of the Too-lool-a-we-ack, or
Glacier Canon, stretching the entire length of it to its four hundred
feet water-fall, near the Horseshoe Grotto at its head. This caiion
is called by Prof. J. D. Whitney the "Illilouette, "a supposed Indian
narae ; but I have never questioned a single Indian that knew any
thing whatever of such a word; while every one, without an
exception, knows this canon either by Too-lool-a-we-ack or Too-
lool-we-ack ; the meaning of which, as nearly as their ideas can
be comprehended and interpreted, is the place beyond which was
the great rendezvous of the Yo Semite Indians for hunting deer.
However this may have been, the way up to it was certainly
never through this canon, if it always had surroundings as wildly
impassable as the present ones.
VIEW FROM ANDERSON'S OLD BLACKSMITH SHOP.
Before crossing the Merced River, those Mdio are good walk
ers and delight in grand scenes, should leave their horses at the
junction of the trails, and raake their way afoot to the top of the
debris at the back of Anderson's old blacksmith shop ; as thence
magnificent views are obtained of both the Vernal and Nevada
Falls, with all their varied mountainous surroundings. Before
very long a good horse-path will probably be made to this point;
and, possibly, to the foot of the Vernal Fall, on the north side
the river. THE VERNAL FALL FROM REGISTER ROCK BRIDGE.
Those who have ever witnessed the glorious scene this fall
presents frora the Lady Franklin Rock, some two hundred yards
above, can form an approximating idea of its impressive majesty
from this fine standpoint. Dr. Wm. B. May, Secretary to the

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 441
Board of Commissioners, thus reports this scene to the Board:
" Standing upon the new bridge, with the Vernal Fall in the
near upper view, and the wealth and war of rushing waters
beneath one's feet, there is a presence of power and grandeur,
hardly equaled in the Valley." The musical Merced, as it roars,
and gurglingly rushes among and over huge bowlders, that here
throng the channel of the river, possibly calls to raemory that
passage of holy writ: "And I heard as it were the voice of a
great raultitude, and as the voice of raany waters, and as the
vo-ce of raighty thunderings, saying. Alleluia; for the Lord God
omnipotent reigneth." REGISTER ROCK.
This is an immense, overhanging, smooth-faced " chip " of
rock about the size of an ordinary village church ; upon which very
many have, at various tiines and seasons, inscribed their naraes ;
not so much for expected imraortality, perhaps, as to inform their
friends, who may at some subsequent season see it, that they have
been here. There is one entry upon a sloping side rock, that is
perhaps worthy of notice, as it reads, " Caraped here August 21,
1863. A. Bierstadt, Virgil WiUiaras, E. W. Perry, Fitzhugh
Ludlow." It was during this visit to the Valley that Mr. Bier
stadt made the sketch from which his famous picture, " The
Doraes of the Yo Seraite," was afterwards painted.
A VISIT TO THE LADY FRANKLIN ROCK.
This name was given in honor of the devoted wife of the
great Arctic voyager. Sir John Franklin, who paid Yo Semite a
visit in 1863. From this rock one of the best of all views is
obtained of THE VERNAL FALL.
The Indian narae of this magnificent water-leap is "Pi-wy-
ack," which, if it could be literally interpreted, would express a con
stant shower of scintillating crystals. Seen frora below, it is an
apparently vertical sheet of water, of sparkling brightness, and
of alraost snowy whiteness, leaping into a rock-strewn basin at

442 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
its foot; whence vast billows of finely comminuted spray roll forth
in surging waves, and out of which the most beautiful of rain
bows are buUt, to span the angry chasm with a befitting halo of
exalting glory. This fall, if possible, impresses one more than
any other with the feeling of Infinite Power.
Its vertical height, by nearly every measurement, is three
hundred and fifty feet ; and its breadth on top, varying of course
soraewhat with the differing stages of water, is about eighty feet.
The Wheeler U. S. Survey corps made the altitude of this fall
three hundred and forty- three feet. Professor Whitney, State
Geologist, thus speaks of it: — '
The first fall reached in ascending the canon is tbe Vernal, a perpen
dicular sheet of water with a descent varying greatly with the season.
Our measurements give all the way from 315 feet to 475 feet for the vertical
height of the fall, between the months of June and October. The reasou
of these discrepancies seems to lie in the fact that the rock near the bottom
is steeply inclined, so that a precise definition of the place where the per
pendicular part ceases is very difficult amid the blinding spray and foam.
As the body of water increases, the force of the fall is greater, and of
course it is thrown farthest forward when the mass of water is greatest.
Probably it is near the truth to call the height of the fall, at the average
stage of the water in June or July, 40O feet. The rock behind this fall is
a perfectly square-cut mass of granite, extending across the canon, etc.
Now, inasmuch as, according to Professor Whitney's admis
sion, it is a "perpendicular sheet of water," and "the rock behind
this fall is a perfectly square-cut raass of granite extending across
the canon," I must confess my inability to see that there could,
by any possibility, be a difference, at any time, of more than a
foot or two at most; as, when the water was highest on the top,
the same result would be noticeable in the pool at the bottora ;
thus precluding the probability of a difference of one hundred and
.sixty feet in a "perpendicular" fall of three hundred and fifty
feet. Had the .steep inclination spoken of been applied to the
Nevada Fall wall, it would have been perfectly correct, but it is
not in the least degree so when speaking of the Vernal.

TUE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 443
THROUGH THE SPRAY TO THE " LADDERS."
Many atterapt this when the fall is fullest; but, novel as the
experience may be, the proceeding, in my judgraent, is not among
the wisest to the average visitor. Over two hundred feet of alti
tude has to be attained through blinding spray; which not only
closes the eyes, but takes away the breath needed for the climb.
It is far better to corae down through this, and have it helpfully
at our backs, than defiantly and drenchingly in our faces. But,
should it be atterapted, one is soon enveloped in a heavy sheet of
spray, that is driven down in o,ich gusty force as to resemble a
heavy beating storra of corarainuted rain. It is true that to an
athletic climber, with good lungs, it is not only possible, but en
joyable ; and, moreover, is very soon accomplished. Ladies, how
ever, attempting this will need suitably short dresses ; or they will
not only be inconvenienced at every step, but incur the danger of
falling ; and, possibly, of rolling down into the angry current below.
RIDE UP THE TRAIL.
Prudence, therefore, suggesting that this should be deferred
until our return, let us retrace our steps to the horses at Register
Rock ; that, by this time, are sufficiently rested to carry us safely
up the zigzagging trail to the top of the hill, some eight hundred
feet above u.s. At alraost every turning in the trail its sinuosities
enable us to look upon the raerabers of our party, and exchange
with theni a greeting look, a kindly word, or snatches of a
favorite song. Our progress upward is necessarily slow, as the
aniraals need to pause for breath, if not for strength ; but trees
and tree shadows, mossy rocks, and towering cliff's bespeak ad
miring thoughts for every moraent. When about two-thirds of
the clirab has been overcorae, from a corner of the trail, looking
back, the top of Yo Semite Fall comes into view. But presently
we find ourselves crossing the highest point on the way to Snow's,
and before us opens a scene never to be forgotten. It is the Cap
of Liberty, and Nevada Fall.
Of these two there seems to be a difficulty in determining

Photo brGeo Fiske.

CAP OP LIBERTY AND NEVADA FALL.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 44.5
which is the most attractive; but, taken together as here pre
sented, the scenic combination is marvelously imposing. Let us,
however, separate them, momentarily, for consideration, notwith
standing " they are but parts of one stupendous whole."
THE CAP OF LIBERTY, HOW AND WHEN SO NAMED.
Owing to the exalted and striking individuality of this boldly
singular mountain (sorae raost excellent judges pronouncing it
only secondary to El Capitan). it had raany godfathers in early
days; who christened it Mt. Frances, Gwin's Peak, Bellows' Butte,
Mt. Broderick, and others; but, when Governor Stanford (now
U. S. Senator) was in front of it with his party in 1865, and
inquired its narae, the above list of appellatives was enumer
ated, and the Governor invited to take his choice of candidates.
A puzzled smile lighted up his face and played about his eyes, as
he responded, "Mr. H., I cannot say that I like either of those
names very much for that viagnificent mountain; don't you think
a more appropriate one could be given?' Producing an old-
fashioned half-dollar with the ideal Cap of Liberty well defined
upon it, the writer suggested the close resemblance in forra of the
mountain before us with the embossed cap on the coin ; when the
Governor exclaimed, "Why! Mr. H., that would make a most
excellent and appropriate name for that raountain. Let us so
call it." Thenceforward it was so called; and as every one pref
erentially respects this narae, all others have been quietly renun-
ciated. THE SUMMIT OF THE CAP OF LIBERTY.
Its altitude above Snow's Hotel, by ray aneroid barometer,
is one thousand eight hundred feet. I'he singularity of its form
and majesty of presence mu.st irapress every beholder. For many
years it was pronounced inaccessible, but a few enthusiastic spirits
found their way to the top. Apparently such an isolated mass
of granite could scarcely find foot-hold for a few bushes, that
strugglingly eked out a half -starved existence; but, strange as it
may seem, when once upon its crown, quite a number of goodly

446 JiV THE HEART OF TUE SIERRAS.
sized trees and shrubs are found; among which are nine juniper
trees, Juniperus Occidentalis two of which are aver ten feet in
diamMer, and must be some fifteen hundred years old The moss
on these is the most beautiful when in blossora, of any that I
ever saw. There are also several Douglas spruce trees, Psudo-
tsuga Douglasii; and the dwarf shrub oak, Quercus dumosa,
manzanita, and others ; besides flowers, fiowering shrubs, and ferns.
But a view frora the top of the Cap of Liberty repays for
all the fatigue attending the scrarabling climb to reach it.
Deep down in the Little Yo Semite Valley (the entire length of
which is visible), meanders the Merced River. Tall pines and firs,
everywhere abundant, appear like toy trees about the right size
for walking- canes. But, let us take courage, and walk out to the
edge of the Cap ; as, at the southeastern corner, there is a large
glacier-left bowlder which offers clinging support for our fingers,
while steadying our nerves, so th2,twe can look down into the abyss
between us and the Nevada Fall ; noting the forra aud graceful
sweep of its waters and the dazzling whiteness of its sheeny foara.
Echo Wall, Glacier Point, Sentinel Dorae, the top of El Capitan,
Eagle Peak, Yo Seraite Fall, Grizzly Peak, omnipresent Half
Dome, Cloud's Rest, and Muont Starr King, with numerous other
points and ridges, are all in full sight.
SIDE VIEW OF THE VERNAL FALL.
Returning, in thought, to the point whence our first glimpse
of these wonders was obtained, we follow the sinuosities of the
trail nearly to the brink of the chasm, into which we can see the
Vernal Fall leaping. When nearest, it would be well here to dis
mount; and, carefully picking our way down within a few feet of
the edge (where a safe and convenient opening between blocks of
rock enables us to sit comfortably), by leaning over a little, we
can watch the water-fall leaping frora its verge on the top to the
pool at the bottom. This charraing view is too often passed by
without being noticed and enjoyed.
Before bestowing more than a passing glance on the raulti-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 447
tudinous objects of uncoraraon interest in this vicinity, if they
are to be enjoyed, thoroughly and in detail, it would be well to
repair directly to Snow's, for rest and refreshraent.
snow's "casa NEVADA."
This hospice is situated about midway between the top of the
Vernal, and foot of the Nevada Falls. It has become deservedly
famous all over the world, not only for its excellent lunches and
general good cheer, but from the quiet, unassuraing attentions of
mine host, and the piquant pleasantries of Mrs. Snow. I do not
think that another pair, anywhere, could be found that would
more fittingly fill this position. And, although they do not
know whether the nuraber to lunch will be five or fifty-five,
they alraost always seem to have an abundance of everything
relishable. On one occasion — and this will illustrate Mrs. Snow's
natural readiness with an answer — a lady, seeing so great a va
riety upon the table, with eager interest inquired, " Why ! Mrs.
Snow, where on earth do you get all these things?" "Oh! we
raise them ! " " Why ! where can you possibly do so, as I see
nothing but rocks around here? " "Oh! madam, we raise ihem.
¦ — on the backs of mules! "
Frora the porches of the Casa Nevada, and its corafortable
"cottage," the glorious Nevada Fall, where the whole Merced
River makes a leap of over six hundred feet, a magnificent view
is obtained. The roar of this fall, and the billowy mists that in
early spring roll out such eddying and gusty masses of spray,
arched by rainbows on ever}' sun-lighted aftemoon, will captivate
and charra our every emotion. The best view, probably, of this
sublime spectacle is from the foot-bridge, over the hurrj^mg and
wave-surging river. There a scene is presented that fills the
soul to overflowing with reverential and impressive awe; as, with
uncovered head, the self-prompted mental question is in silence
asked, "Is not this the very footstool of His throne? "
" The Nevada Fall is," says Prof. J. D. Whitney, " in every
respect, one of the grandest water-falls in the world; whether we

448 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
consider its vertical height, the purity and volume of the river
which forms it, or the stupendous scenery by which it is envi
roned." This is an opinion that I have frequently heard expressed
by travelers from many lands. When in Iront of it, and looking
upward, it can readily be seen that this fall differs in form with
either of the others ; for, although it shoots over the precipice in a
curve, it soon strikes the smooth surface of the mountain, and
spreads out into a sheet of raarvelously snowy whiteness, and of
burnished brightness, widening as it descends, until it sometimes
exceeds one hundred feet in breadth, at the pool into which it
is leaping. The height of this fall is given at six hundred and
five feet by the Wheeler TJ. S. Survey corps.
This point being as far as visitors generally go — although
many enthusiastic climbers and appreciative lovers of the beau
tiful seek the wonderful view frora its top — we will, for the
present, if you please, ask the guide to take our horses down
to Register Rock, while "we say good-by to our genial host and
his wife, and then seek the wondrous scenes below, afoot.
ELEVEN FEET OF SNOW.
A gentleman who, from modesty, desires that his name may
be kept a secret, once took an unfair advantage of a confiding
visitor, by inforndng hira that there were nearly eleven feet of
snow visible here throughout the hottest days of summer. " Is
it possible? Oh! how much I should like to see it." "Please
allow me, then, to introduce you to Mr. and Mrs. Snow — the
former being five feet nine inches, and the latter making up the
remainder! "
Soon after leaving " Snow's," we find ourselves upon the
bridge that here spans the river. Listening to the roar of the
fall above, we naturally turn our faces towards it, and then look
down into the apparently insignificant stream beneath us, and
think, can this be the whole of the main Merced River? It scarcely
seems possible, but so it is. Its narrow, rock-bound, and deep,
trough-like channel confines it to a width seldom exceeding ten

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

449

feet. While it is swashing and rushing on let us turn our gaze
to the opposite side, and look down on
THE DIAMOND CASCADE.
We now readily appreciate the apposite character of its name;
for, down, down, the whole river is leaping, as if in very wanton
ness and exultation at the liberty it has gained ; and, being seized
with an uncontrollable fit of frolicking, is tossing up diaraonds
(of the purest water) with a prodigality and apparent iraprovi-
dence that would shock the sensitive acquisitiveness of " My
TJncle," if he could see it. By the deraureness of its demeanor,
however, below, as it " pursues the even tenor of its way," it would
seem to be laughing in its sleeve, and .saying, " You see, I was
only in fun — don't mind me! " Around a jutting point of rock,
we find ourselves at the Silver Apron.

SILVER APRON, AND DIAMOND CASCADK, FROM BELOW.
29

450 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
When standing near the edge of the impetuous current, and
looking up towards the Diamond Cascade Bridge we have so re
cently crcssed, the whole river seeras to be attempting, in the
most reckless manner, to throw its separated and scintillating
drops and masses into our faces; but, unmindful of, or excusing
this, we cannot resist the temptation of watching the sportive and
sprightly fearlessness of its dashing abandon; or the aston
ishingly brilliant beauty of this sparkling outlet from the Diamond
Cascade. Directly in front of us, and down at our left, the whole river
is scurrying over sraooth, bare granite, at the rate of a fast
express train on the best of railroads. Pieces of wood or bark
tossed upon its silvery bosom tell instantly of its marvelous speed
TAKING A "BAWTH."
An English gentleraan who was making his teraporary resi
dence at Snow's Hotel, araazed its inmates one morning by ap
pearing on the scene with his face badly cut, and his hands bleed
ing. With astonished surprise at such a sight Mr. Snow inno
cently inquired: —
"What on earth, man, have you Ijeen doing to yourself, to
get into such a plight as that? "
Looking steadfastly at the questioner, while wiping the red
stains away with as rauch easy deliberation as though a little dust
had fallen upon his face, and needed reraoval, he hesitatingly made
answer : —
" Th-the-there is, you k-know, a s-sraooth k-kind of place in
the-the river, j-just b-be-low the-the lit-tle bridge, you know,
w-where the-the wa-water p-passes s-somewhat r-rapidly over
the-the-pock, you know."
" Oh! yes," replied Mr. Snow, " I remember; that is what we
call the ' Silver Apron.' Well? "
" W-well, w-when I g-gazed up-upon it, I-I-th-thought it-it
w-would be a-a-de-lightful p-place to t-t-take a-a b-bawth, you
k-know."

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 451
" Why, sir," responded the landlord of the ' Casa Nevada,'
aghast, and interruptingly, "why, the whole Merced River
shoots over there, at the ratd of about sixty miles an hour  faster
than a locomotive goes upon a railroad ! "
' 'Is-is i-it p-possible ? W-we-well, I h-had n-no s-sooner d-dis-
robed m-ray-s-,self, and s-set ra-ray f-foot in-into th-the h-hurry-
ing c-c-current, y-you k-know, t-than i-it k-knocked ra-me off"
ra-my p-ins, you know ! an-and s-swept me d-down s-so s-swiftly
th-that it q-quite t-took my b-breath a-away f -for a f-few m-mo-
ments, you k-know ; s-sometiraes i-it r-rolled rae o-over and o-over,
a-and a-at o-other t-tiraes s-shot rae d-down en-endwise, y-vou
k-know; a-and fi-finally b-brought ra-rae up-in a s-sort o-of pool,
y-you know ! "
"The Emerald Pool," suggested Mr. Snow.
And, b-by G-George, if I h-had no-not b-been an ex-excellent
swim-swimmer, I s-should cer-certainly h-have 1-lost my life, you
know ! A-and, it is n-not ray h-hands a-and ra-my f-face o-only-
i-it is a-all o-over m-me-like that, you know! "
Opinions are sometimes hastily forraed, and are not always
supported by the best of good reasons; and it raay be so in this
case, but the supposition most generally prevails, that, when this
gentleman wishes to take another "bawth," he will not seek to
do so at the " Silver Apron." THE EMERALD POOL.
This is a beautiful lake, or pool, whose waters are, as its
name signifies, "emerald." Tbe river's current, driving with
great force into its upper margin, causes a constant succession of
waves to disturb its surface, especially during the spring flow.
Its mountainous surroundings, trees, and bowlders, add rauch to
the picturesqueness of its character. Descending towards
THE TOP OF THE VERNAL FALL,
Little patches of glacier-polished rock surface are still distinctly
visible, the striations of which indicate the exact course the great
ice-field raust have once taken. Approaching the edge of the

riiutu.bytico. Fwke.

TIIJ7 I.AT^rik'U>S_TM WIXTE-R.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 453
fall, almost before we have glanced at its diamond-fringed lip, we
walk up to, and lean upon, a natural balustrade of granite, that
seems to have been constructed there for the especial benefit of weak -
nerved people ; so that the most timid can look over it into the
entrancing abyss beneath. After this experience many have
sufficient nerve to stand on the edge n^ar the side of the fall, espe
cially if some less nervous person should take them by the hand,
and thence looking down the entire front of its diamond-lighted,
rocket-formed surface, follow it with the eye to the pool beneath.
Sometimes bright rainbows are arching the spray at its foot, and
which, extending from bank to bank, completely bridge flie bil
lowy mist and angry foam below. But, turning away from these
delightful sights, let us seek the " Ladders," so called from the
original, but which have been transformed into substantial steps
(to which the old term " ladders" still clings), by which we can
descend to Fern Grotto, on our way to the foot of the Vernal
Fall Wall. FERN GROTTO.
Here a portion of the mountain has been removed, and left a
large cave or grotto, in the interstices of which numerous ferns,
the Adiantum, pedatum, mainly, one of the maiden hair species,
formerly grew in abundance; but constant plucking of the leaves,
and removal of the roots, have shorn it of its fern-like character,
where they could be reached without danger. A glance at the
accompanying engraving will enable the visitor, raeasurably, to
conceive the superb, fairy-like creations of the enchanter's wand
to be found here in winter. Hours might be pleasantly spent
at this spot, but we must hurry through the spray to our horses ;
and while some are returning to the hotel, let us retrace our steps,
at least in imagination, as some more enthusiastic natures yearn
to see what there is of interest above and beyond this ; and which
necessarily forms the substance of the ensuing chapter.

CHAPTER XXVI.
GRIZZLY PEAK, HALF DOME, AND CLOUD'S EEST.
The broad blue mountains lift their bio\\s
Barely to bathe t lem iu he blaze.
— Harriet Prescott Spofford's Daybreak.
He prov'd the best man i' the field; and for his meed
^Vas brow-bound with the oak.
— Shakespear's Coriolanus, Act If, Sc. 3.
Eound ita breast the rolling clouds are spread,
Eternal sunshine settles on hi head.
— Goldsmith's Deserted Village.
When standing on the bare granite in front of Snow's
Hotel, with the Nevada Fall and Cap of Liberty at our backs,
not only are the Silver Apron, Emerald Pool, and Glacier Point
(including McCauley's house) distinctly visible before us; but,
looking northwestwardly, there towers up the bold, rugged point
of a raountain, and one that has also attracted considerable
attention frora us when in the Valley, that, at its base, is skirted
by the Anderson Trail,j and which is known as
GRIZZLY PEAK.
Seen from this standpoint it resembles an immense Moorish
head, with a long, prorainent nose, forraed of one large slab of
i-ock set edgewise, with dwarf trees for eyebrows. This, and the
Cathedral Spires, are the only points upon which I have never set
foot. Mr. Chas. A. Bailey clirabed this a year ago, and has
kindly sent rae the following account of his difficult feat: —
Stimulated by the assertion tbat Grizzly Peak had never been
ascended by any white man, I determined to attempt it. Leaving Snow's
with a stout stafl' and a good lunch, I crept up a narrow and steep ravine,
flanked by the great Half Dome, to a narrow connecting neck between
(454)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 455
the latter and the object of my ambitious climb. This was attended by
many a rough scramble, as its nearly vertical sides loomed up like a church
steeple. Crossing the neck to its southerly side, there was but one spot
that was possibly accessible, and this was made so only by the aid of
friendly bushes that grew in the interstices of the rock. An unbroken
precipice extended from the edge of the peak to the Valley on one side,
but which developed a slab-cleavage of granite on the other, the edge of
which, although sharp, was rapidly disintegrating; but this I mounted,
and, by striding, clasping, hitching, and crawling along it, reached its
farther and upper end in safety.
Further on the ascent had to be made by climbing up a narrow
fissure, by pressing my knees and elbows against its sides, until either
finger or foothold could be obtained. This passed, a steeply slanting rock
was crossed by moving over it with a crawling kind of motion, where
friction and the force of gravitation were my principal helpers, to keep
me from sliding over the cliff. As a safeguard, however, I kept my eye
on some projecting slabs below, for which I intended to spring, should I
unavoidably slide from my position. Fortunately I eventually reached
the top, some two thousand five hundred fjet above the Valley, in safety.
The glories of these crags seem to be immeasurably heightened and
deepened, and the uplifting peaks made grander and loftier, when their
summits are attained by a hard and perilous climb; and the view from
Grizzly Peak was so unlike that I had obtained elsewhere, that the very
novelty charmed and repaid me. Resting, as it apparently does, in the
shadow of the great Half Dome; on the edge, and almost projecting over
the Merced River, its position is commandingly impressive. Glacier
Point, though seemingly near, with a much greater altitude, has a won
derfully imposing presence from this standpoint. Looking east and south,
Mt. Broderick (the peak next westerly from the Cap of Liberty), Mt. Clark,
and Mt. Starr King, stand grandly out above their lesser mountain brethren.
From here, too, a bird's-eye view is obtained of Snow's, which, with its
surrounding trees, and the Emerald Pool, looks like a place of enchant
ment. Perhaps the finest single view of all these is the Too-lool-a-we-
ack, or Glacier Canon, which can be seen for its entire length; with its
narrow mountain-walled channel, its numberless bowlders, its dashing
and foaming torrent, and its distant water-fall of some four hundred
feet at the end. I fondly hoped to get a view of the upper falls; this,
however, was intercepted by a jutting spur. But for this I could have
seen the four great water-falls of the Valley from a single standpoint—
the Vernal, Nevada, Too-lool-a-we-ack, and Yo Semite — a spectacle that
would have been unparalleled. The first ascent of Grizzly Peak accom
plished, I left my card, and water bottle, as mementos of my visit.

456

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

THE HALF DOME.
Until the fall of 1875 the storm-beaten summit of this mag
nificent landraark was a terra incognita, as it had never been
trodden by huraan feet. In the suramer of 1869 three of us set
out for the purpose of climbing it, taking the "Indian escape trail"
north of Grizzly Peak. There was absolutely no trail whatso
ever, as we had to walk on narrow ledges, and hold on with
our feet as well as hands, trusting our lives to bushes and jut
ting points of
rock. In some
places where the
ledges of rock
were high, their
tops had to be
reached by long
broken branches
of trees, which
the Indians used
to climb ; and,
after they were
up, cut off" the
possibility of
pursuit from en
eraies, by pulling
up these primi
tive ladders after
them. Not a
drop of water
A snow bank increased rather than diminished
Finally, after many hair-breadth escapes,

AN "INDIAN ESCAPE TRAIL

could we find.
our terrible thirst.
and not a little fatigue, we reached the top of the lower dome,
or eastern shoulder, and were then within four hundred and sixty
feet, vertically, of realizing our arabitious hopes. To our disraay,
as well as disappointraent, we found a great smooth mountain

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

457

before us, standing at an angle of about 40°, its surface over
laid and overlapped, so to speak, with vast circular granite
shingles, about eighteen inches in thickness. There was not
a place to set a secure foot upon,
or a point that W£ could clutch
with our fingers. The very first
sight put every hope to fiight
of reaching its exalted suramil by
the raeans at our coraraand; and,
deeming it a siraple irapossibility,
"we surrendered at discretion,"
and returned without the realiza
tion of our arabitious hopes.
Seven years after this an athletic
youth informed the writer that he
was "going to climb to the top of
the Half Dome." I quietly sug
gested that such a feat was among
the doubtful things of this life.
He was willing to bet any amount
I informed him that I was not a
betting man, — had never made a bet in ray life, and was too old
to begin now, — but, if he would put a flag upon the only visible
pine tree standing there, I would raake hira a present of twenty
dollars, and treat hira and his friends to the best charapagne
dinner that could be provided in Yo Seraite. Three days after
this he walked past without deigning to stop, or even to look at
us, — and there was no flag floating frora the top of the Half
Dome either !
This honor was reserved for a brave young Scotchman, a
native of Montrose, naraed George G. Anderson, who, by dint of
pluek, skill, unswerving perseverance, and personal daring,
climbed to its summit; and was the first that ever successfully
scaled it. This was accomplished at 3 o'clock p. M. of October
12, 1875.

ASCENDING THE LOWER DOME.

that hie could accomplish it.

458 IN THE HEART OF TUE SIERRAS.
The knowledge that the feat of climbing this grand mount
ain had on several occasions been attempted, but never with suc
cess, begat in him an irrepressible determination to succeed in
such an enterprise. Irabued with this incentive, he made his way
to its base.; and, looking up its sraooth and steeply inclined sur
face, at once set about the difficult exploit. Finding that he
could not keep frora sliding with his boots on, he tried it in his stock
ing feet; but as this did not secure a triumph, he tried it barefooted,
and still was unsuccessful. Then he tied sacking upon his feet
and legs, but as these did not secure the desired object, he covered
it with pitch, obtained from pine trees near ; and although this
enabled him to adhere firmly to the smooth granite, and effectu
ally prevented him frora slipping^ a new difficulty presented
itself in the great effort required to unstick himself ; and which
came near proving fatal several times.
Mortified by the failure of all his plans hitherto, yet in no
way discouraged, he procured drills and a hamraer, with sorae
iron eye-bolts, and drilled a hole in the solid ro _-k ; into this he
drove a wooden pin, and then an eye-bolt ; and, after fastening a
rope to the bolt, pulled hiraself up until he could stand upon it;
and thence continued that process until he had finally gained the
top — a distance of nine hundred and seventy-five feet! All
honor, then, to the intrepid and skillful mountaineer, Geo. G.
Anderson, who, defying and overcoraing all obstacles, and at the
peril of his life, accoraplished that in which all others had sig
nally failed ; and thus became the first to plant his foot upon the
exalted crown of the great Half Dome.
His next efforts were directed towards 'placing and securely
fastening a good soft rope to the eye-bolts, so that others could
clirab up and enjoy the iniraitable view, and one that has not its
counterpart on earth. Four English gentlemen, then sojourning
in the Valley, learning of Mr. Anderson's feat, were induced to
follow his intrepid example. A day or two afterwards. Miss S.
L. Dutcher, of San Francisco, with the courage of a heroine,
accomplished it; and was the first lady that ever stood upon it.

<*W«^ .

it vv f-

'•(!»; ¦.'<"-•*-¦

//,ot,\f>yS.C. ^yalkc.

riu'to-typo ly lirilton i~ Rfv, S. /¦'.

The Half, or South, Dome -Tis-sh-ack.
ilEoicr.E Anderson Standing un the Phecii'Ice — 5,000 Feet.
(See page 460,)

Photo, by S. C. Walker. Pe" Sketch, by Mrs. Brodt.
ANDERSON ON PRECIPICE OF HALF-DOME — 5,000 FEET.
(Loolting Ea'it up Ten-ie-ya Cafion.)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 459
In July, 1876, Miss L. E. Pershing, of Pittsburg, Pa., the
writer, and three others found their way there. In October fol
lowing, six persons, among thera a lady in her sixty -fifth year,
and a young girl, thirteen years of age (a daughter of the
writer), and two other ladies, climbed it with but little difficulty,
after Anderson had provided the way. Since then ver}^ raany
othe;rs have daringly pulled themselves up; and enjoyed the
exceptionally impressive view obtained thence.
The suramit of this glorious raountain contains over ten
acres, where persons can securely walk, or even drive a carriage,
could such be transported thither. There are seven pine trees
upon it, of the following species: Pinus Jeffreyi, P . monticola,
and P. contorta; besides numerous shrubs, grasses, and fiowers.
A " chip-monk," sorae lizards, and grasshoppers, have taken up
their isolated preemption claims there. Two sheep, supposed to
have been frightened by bears, once scrarabled up there; to
which Mr. Anderson daily carried water, until they were event
ually lost sight of. Their bones were afterwards discovered side
by side, in a sheltered hollow.
The coraraanding position of the Half (or South) Dome at
the head of the Valley, with a vertical altitude above it of nearly
five thousand feet, two-thirds of which is absolutely in the zenith,
makes the view frora its culrainating crest inexpressibly sublirae.
There is not only the awe-inspiring depth into which one can
look, whfere everything is dwarfed into utter insignificance, but
the coraprehensive panoraraa of great raountains everywhere
encorapassing us. As Yo Seraite, confessedly, has not its emula
tive counterpart on earth, so is this view the culminating crown
of scenic grandeur, that is utterly without a rival upon earth.
When sitting upon its edge our feet swing over a vortex of
five thousand feet ; and if we can imagine forty-five San Fran
cisco Palace Hotels placed on top of each other, and ourselves
seated upon the cornice of the upper one, surrounded by mount
ain peaks, deep gorges, beautiful lakes, and vast stretches of for
est, with here and there bright pastures, some realizing sense of
the preeminently glorious scene may partially be conceived.

460 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
Such a position, to those whose nerves had not been disci
plined, might be trying in the extreme, if not impossible; but to
those whose daily life brings thera in constant and familiar con
tact with such, there is no perceptible nervousness whatsoever;
therefore there is no particular merit in it. In 1877 Mr. Anderson,
after assisting Mr. S. C. Walker, the photographer, and the
writer, to pack up all the photographic apparatus necessary for
taking views from its summit, deliberately placed a large flat rpck,
projectingly, on the margin of the precipice, and stood upright
upon it while the photograph was taken; one of his feet being
over, and beyond the edge eleven inches, as presented in the
accompanying view, taken at that time. Although unsteadied
and unsupported, not a nerve or muscle quivered.
About seventy feet frora the face of the Half Dome wall,
there is a narrow and nearly vertical fissure, several hundred feet
in depth judging frora the time stones dropped in were traveling
to the bottora. This becoraes suggestive that ere very long a new
fracture may here take place.
A THEILLING ADVENTURE.
During the severe winter of 1883-84 the ice and snow slid
ing down the smooth back of the great Half Dome, carried with
it over four hundred feet of the rope Anderson had put up with
60 much care and risk, and several of the iron eye-bolts with it.
This deprived every enthusiastic climber of the pleasure of
ascending to its wondrous summit, and of obtaining the une
qualed view from that glorious standpoint. No one seemed
imbued with sufficient ambitious courage to replace it — Anderson
having passed away to his rest.
But, just after sunset, one evening of the ensuing summer,
every resident of the Valley, farailiar with the fact of the rope's
removal, was startled by the sight of a blazing fire upon its ut
most crest; and all kinds of suppositious theories were indulged
in concerning such phenomena. No one knew of any one con
templating so hazardous a venture. What could it mean?

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 461
EventuaUy it transpired that two young gentleraen, who
were summering in the Sierras, hunting, fishing, reading, and
sketching, had been missed sorae days from their camping-ground
in the Valley ; and, therefore, there was the possibility that these
might have unknowingly attempted to ascend it, and succeeded.
But that possibility shared the corapanionship of another, which
filled every mind with consternation; that they were up there,
and could not come down ; that the fire seen was at once a signal
of distress as well as of success, and a call for help.
Before daylight the following morning, therefore, four of us,
well supplied with ropes, extra bolts, and other essentials, were
upon the way for their deliverance. At Snow's, however, we
met the daring adventurers ; and found that, although they had
made the perilous climb up, they had also accomplisiied the descent
in perfect safety. These twin heroes were Mr. Alden Sampson,
of New York City, and Mr. A. P. Proctor, of Colorado.
Grateful for the intended, though unneeded deliverance, these
young gentlemen very thoughtfully presented themselves at the
cabin, to tender their thanks, and express their acknowledgments
of the good services premeditated; when Mr. Sarapson kindly
favored me with the following recitative of their danger-defying
exploit: —
Having heard of the incomparable view obtained from the summit of
the Half (or South) Dome, and that the ascent was assisted by a strong
rope, attended with some danger, we resolved to make the escalade.
To our disappointment we discovered that the ice and snow of the pre
ceding winter had torn down the rope; and, to our chagrin, learned that
one of the old-timers of these parts had expressed himself as patiently
awaiting the advent of some venturesome member of the English Alpine
Club for its replacement. Thia aspect of the matter, I -must own, galled
my pride Should we forsooth, wait for some foreign sinner to scale a
peak for us in the American Sierras ? Not by a darned sight!
So we quietly reconnoitered the place, and made all necessary prepara
tions in entire secrecy, that no one should have the pleasure of laugh
ing at us, if we failed. After e.Ktracting the hob nails from the heels of
one pair of boots, I drove them into the soles of another, where our
plantigrades got their grip. Then we took two hundred and fifty feet of

•462 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
picket rope, a handful of lunch, and a lemon apiece, and in the early
morning rode from our camp to the peak.
Without my companion the ascent could not have been made; and
without me (I don't mind telling you in all modesty), it could not have
been made, on this occasion. We supplemented one another's work. He
could throw the reatta like a native Californian; so that when a pin was
not over thirty feet off, he would be sure to " rope it" the first time. The
end of the reatta once fast, one of us would pull himself up by it; then
stand upon the pin, ready to take up and make fast the old rope, after the
other had tied the lower end of the reatta to it.
But, after a while, we came to a clean stretch of a hundred feet,
where not a single pin was found; yet, at this point a difficult corner had
to be turned. My companion, being barefooted, found that he could not
cling to the surface as well as I could, with hob nails under my feet;
so I had the pleasure of attempting this all to myself. The sensation was
glorious. I did not stake my life upon it, for I was sure I could make
it. If I had slipped in the least I should have had a nasty fall of several
hundred feet. To be sure, I was playing out a rope behind me attached
to my waist; but, supposing I had fallen with all this slack below me, my
weight would have snapped it, or cut me in two.
The difficult part here was that a point had to be rounded on naked
granite, that was both steep and slippery; not the coarse, rough variety
one sometimes sees, but polished by beating Sierra storms, and the snow-
slides of innumerable winters. In the hardest place of all a little bunch of
dwarf spirea, growing in a crevice, gave me friendly assistance. What
it lived on up there I cannot imagine, as it grew in such a narrow crack
of the naked granite. However, its roots had a tenacious hold; and a
piece of partially rotten bale rope afforded me a steady pull of ten or
fifteen pounds; quite enough to steady me in the most difficult spot.
My companion exercised great skill and patience in making throws
with the reatta; having to sit on the edge of a seemingly perpendicular
precipice, morally supported by a rope from his waist attached to the pin
below him; but, for actual, physical dependence, relied solely uponhis foot
hold on the iron eyebolt under his feet. I dare say that his experience
in one thing was similar to my own, — the feeling that when he clung to
the rock, it was seemingly trying to push him from off it. After many
unsuccessful efibrts to lasso the pin a hundred feet above us, with such
precarious foot-hold, nearly two precious hours were consumed, and the
task was apparently hopeless, when the reatta at last caught the distant
pin firmly; and as we taughtened it, we could not repress a shout of joy
ful exultation, as now we had conquered the enemy, and could make the

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 463
ascent. And although we had other difficult spots to overcome, we
were soon upon the glorious summit of the great Half Dome, signaling
those that we thought might be watching us from below.
CLOUD'S REST.
As intiraated elsewhere, there is a singular appropriateness
in the name of this grand raountain crest, inasmuch as there is
frequently a cloud lingering there when there is not another visi
ble in the firraaraent. Seen from the Valley it is always a point
of attractive interest especially when wreathed in storm. It is
about one thousand feet higher than the Half Dome ; its height
being six thousand feet above the Valley.
Frora its cloud-crested top one vast panorama of the High
Sierra, erabracing an area over fifty railes in length, is opened at
our feet. Nestling valleys, pine-raargined lakes, bleak raountain
peaks, lonely and desolate, and deep gorges half filled with snow,
are on every hand. To the eastward, above the tiraber line,
(here about 10,800 feet high), stands boldly out Mt. Hoffman,
10,872 feet above sea level; Mt. Tuolumne, 11,000 feet; Mt. Gibbs,
13,090 feet; Mt. Dana, 13,270 feet; Mt. Lyell, 13,220 feet; Echo
Peak, 11,231 feet; Teraple Peak, 11,250 feet; Cathedral Peak,
11,200 feet; Mt. Clark (forraerly known as Gothic Peak, the
Obelisk, etc.), 11,29.5 feet; Mt. Starr King, 9,105 feet, with
numerous others that are as yet nameless ; while the point upon
which we are .supposed to be standing (Cloud's Rest) is 9,855 feet.
Turning our eyes westward, we look down upon the crown
of the Half Dome, and the great A^alley below. But who can paint
the haze-clothed heights, and depths, of the wonderful senes
before us? Almost at our feet, 6,000 feet beneath us, sleeps
Mirror Lake; yonder, the North Dome, the Yo Semite Fall, Eagle
Peak, El Capitan, Sentinel Dorae, Glacier Point, and many others
that raargin the glorious Yo Semite. Verily this view must be
seen to be even partiali v realized.
The way to these wondrous scenes is past the base of the
Cap of Liberty, up a somewhat steep ascent ; at the right of
¦which a splendid side view of the Nevada Fall is obtained. At

464

IN TIIE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

the top of the "zigzags" the horses should be tied, and a tramp
taken of about two hundred yards to
THE UPPER LIP OF THE NEVADA FALL.
Here the Merced River, for some distance, forms a series of
rapids, near the edge of which are numerous patches of bare,
glacier-polished granite. Leaving these on our left, we seek the
edge of the clifi", over which the Nevada is making its marvelous
leap . On the way we see a singular botanical freak of nature,
known as

THE UMBRELLA TREE

It is a Douglas spruce, Pseudo tsuga Douglasii. Just beyond
this we can stand on the edge of the precipice; but, as it is flat,
nearly all lie down to take a soul-filling glimpse of the awe-
inspiring majesty and glory beneath. The fall, almost directly
after it daringly leaps its rocky rim, strikes the inclining wall,
and apparently forms into a wavy mass of curtain-like folds,
composed from top to bottom of diamond lace; now draping this

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 465
side, then lifted, as by fairy hands, to the other. The base, as
though it would raake the whole scene a rainiature heaven, and
through it lead men to the outer footstool of the Almighty throne,
is spanned with gorgeous rainbows ; while the beautiful river hur
ries on, and the grand raountains around stand sentinel forever.
About a mile beyond we enter the Little Yo Seraite Valley,
at the head of which, sorae three miles distant, is a sugar-loaf-
shaped mountain, and a cascade one hundred and fifty feet in
length, down which the Merced River rushes at an angle of about
20°. Just beyond this a bold bluff, a thousand feet in height
above the river, juts across the entire upper end, the top of which
is highly polished by glaciers ; and around it every hollow is filled
with the detritus of old moraines.
The picturesque Little Yo Semite left behind, with its glacier-
polished mountains around it, our course hence, to both Half
Dorae and Cloud's Rest, is, for the most part, over old moraines,
where bowlders frora every conceivable texture of granite, totally
unlike that which forras the base here, are strewn on every hand.
Those who have entertained a doubt about ancient glaciers hav
mg once covered the whole broad field of the Sierras, can here find
evidence bej'ond question to dispel it.
As we journey upward and onward, new mountain peaks
and spurs and ranges come into view ; while flowers of every hue
bloom at our side. The one most conspicuous of all, however, is
THE SNOW PLANT OF THE SIERRAS (Sarcodcs sanguinca).
This blood-red and strikingly attractive flower is to be seen
upon every route to the Big Trees and Yo Semite Valley, as upon
nearly every trail or by-path in or around them, at an elevation
above sea level, ranging from four to eight thousand feet; its
brilliant, semi-ttanslucent stem, and bells, and leaves that inter
twine araong the bells, being all blood-red, their constituents
seemmgly of partially crystallized sugar, make it the raost con
spicuously beautiful flower born of the Sierras.
Frora the common name it bears might come the impression
30

466 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
that its birthplace is among Sierran snows, but this is not the
case; for, although its growth and early development is beneath
deep banks of snow, it seldom shows its blood-red crown until
some days after the snow has melted away.
Many erainent botanists consider this a parasitic plant, some
affirraing that it grows only upon a cedar root (Libocedrus de-
currens)\n a certain stage of decay; but these deductions may
have been made from the close resemblance in outline of the
Sarcodes sanguinea with the Boschniakia strobilacea, which is
positively a parasitic fiower, that prefers the manzanita as its
host. I have, however, seen this floral gem flourishing over a
thousand feet above the habitat of cedars; and, after carefully
digging up over twenty specimens, could find no indication
whatever of their parasitic character.
The height of its panicled blossom above ground is from
seven to sixteen inches, with a diaraeter of from two to four
inches; its bulb-root extending as far down into the earth as the
flower is above it. When digging up specimens, therefore, this
fact should be reraerabered ; as to break them off — and they are
exceedingly brittle — is to spoil thera.
THE SNOW PLANT OF THE SIERRAS.
On those etemal peaks where -winter reigns.
And cold aud frosts their icy splendors shed.
Like drops of blood ou pallid banks of snow,
This hyacinthine blossom lifts its head,
A pyramid of tiny tongues of flame
Darting from out the rifts of dazzling white 
A strange, bright phantom, boru of ice and fire.
Flushing pale wastes with gleams of crimson light.
'Tis said that when a holy man of old.
Bearing the cross, on sacred mission bent,
Beheld upon the mountain's snowy crest
This blood-red flower— his pious fancy lent
A charm miraculous, and, kneeling there
In adoration, ou the mountain-side.
With heavenward gaze and hands upraised in prayer,
"Sangre de CHsto"— hlood of Christ— he cried!
— Sarah J. Pbttinos.

The CflLiFORNifl Snow Pls
( .S <t rcitt/i-s .S,z,t^j,/,ua. ,
<Im---'J'HIUI) N Ml-K.AI, Sl/K.

NT

CHAPTER XXVIL
GLACIER POINT, AND ITS GALAXY OF GLORIES.
Acuse not Nature, she hath done her part;
Do thou but thine.
—Milton's Paradise Lost, BIc. VHI, Line 561.
The pleasantest things in the world are pleasant thoughts, and the great art
of life is to have as many of them as possible. — Bovee's Summaries of ThotiglU.
Beauty was lent to nature as the type
Of Heaven's unspeakable and holy joy.
Where all perfection makes the sum of bliss. — S. J. Hale.
Supposing that we are not over-fatigued, and that the cham
pagne atmosphere we are drinking daily is becoming to us the
fabled fountain of perpetual youth, let us attempt the ascent of
the Glacier Point Trail, to Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome, and
look upon the imperishable grandeur there portrayed.
Seeking the entrance to the horse-path at the back of the lit
tle chapel, we commence the ascent. Formerly, the glorious scenes
we are about to witness were denied to the many on account of
¦the difficulty, danger, and fatigue attending the climb ; as it had
to be made on foot, and up a trailless mountain-side, where rocky
poiuts had to be carefully surmounted, and dense masses of shrub
bery defiantly overcome. Still, with all the numerous obstacles
impeding the journey, it was occasionally accomplished. Now,
however, through the enterprise and perseverance of Mr. Jaraes
McCauley, a wide, safe, easy graded, and reraarkably pictur
esque trail, zigzags the mountain frora base to surarait.
At almost every turning new and enchantingly picturesque
scenes are revealed between, or over, the tops of trees and shrubs
that raargin our way, until we arrive at (467)

468 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
UNION POINT,
And an elevation of two thousand three hundred and thirty-
five feet above the Valley. Here let us dismount, and while our
horses are resting and breathing, enjoy the wonderful sight. It
-will be seen that now we are on an elevated flat or table, formed
by nature, on the edge of the mountain from whence the whole
panorama of the lower end and middle of the Yo Semite is vis
ible. The Sentinel, Cathedral Spires, El Capitan, Eagle Point,
Yo Semite Falls, and other points of interest, with all the
serpentine windings of the Merced River, are strikingly seen.
THE AGASSIZ COLUMN.
Near the trail at Union Point there is a rock standinsr on
end, like a huge ten-pin, some thirty feet in height, and ten in
thickness. It looks as though a good strong breeze would blo-w
it over, but which has thus far successfully withstood all storms
and earthquakes. It is known as the Agassiz Column. From
Union Point we make a detour to the eastward, on a foot-trail, to
MORAN POINT,
Whence the whole upper end of the Valley, with all its sublime
scenes, can be witnessed to excellent advantage. The great Half
Dome, Cloud's Rest, North Dome, Mirror Lake, the Ten-ie-ya
Caiion, and many other views, are here before us. Remounting
our now rested steeds, we steadily climb, filled with admiring
wonder at every step as we advance, until, at last, we are at
THE GLACIER POINT HOUSE.
Here let me introduce you to its proprietor, Mr. James Mc
Cauley, a stalwart son of Erin, whose every feature bespeaks
progressive energy and irrepressible deterraination. It is to hira,
and to those qualities, that we are indebted for the Glacier Point
Trail. He was its architect and builder; and its proprietor until
it was purchased by the State. Mr. McCauley is the fortunate
possessor of an excellent wife, and two healthy sons, twins,
and the first ever born of white parents in Yo Semite. Mrs.

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THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 469
McCauley, among other good qualities, is an excellent cook ; and
prepares for guests as nice, clean, and relishable a meal as could
be obtained at any first-class city hotel. Try it. But, while
lunch is preparing, let us seek
THE VIEW FROM THE HOTEL PORCH.
The broad sweep of the great . chain of the High Sierra is
directly before us; and, apparently, so boldly near that one feels
he could hold converse with any adventurous climber that might
be seen upon either of their crests. A glance at the accompany
ing engraving will give but a faint irapression only of the glori
ous scene. Once looked upon, the memory of its sublime impres
siveness will remain an exalted mystery forever. Leaving this,
therefore, for a frequently recurring feast, let us repair to
GLACIER POINT.
Here we are on the edge of an abyss three thousand two
hundred and fifty-seven feet deep, with all its wondrous environ
ments on every hand. As Derrick Dodd expresses it in his
" Summer Saunterings:" "It is something to stop the beatings of
a chamois' heart to lean over the iron railing, set between two
verge-topling bowlders on the peak's brink, and glance down
into the bottomless, awful gulf below. It causes spiders of ice
to crawl down one's spine." Large trees, two hundred feet high,
are dwarfed to utter insignificance. The little checker-board
like spot first attracting notice, possibly, is Lamon's apple orchard
of four acres, and which contains over five hundred trees, set
regularly twenty feet apart. The other cultivated point,
formed by the junction of Ten-ie-ya Creek with the Merced
River, is Lamon's other orchard. The bright speck which throws
out its silvery sheen in that deep, tree-dotted canon is Mirror
Lake, and although the great sweep of the northern rim of the
Valley is before us, with its multitudinous crags and rents, the
Half Dome, as omnipresent as ever, overshadows and eclipses every
lesser object.

Grey Mountain.
Red Mountain.
Mt. Stflirp King.

i^'y(

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"'^'it.AiS

iSl/

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O
O>nw

/*;^:-r;;f*%.^

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 471
DERRICK dodd's TOUGH STORY.
As a part of the usual programme, we experimented as to the time
taken by diflFerent objects in reaching the bottom of the cliff". An ordi
nary stone tossed over remained in sight an incredibly long time, but
finally vanished somewhere about the middle distance. A handkerchief
with a stone tied in the corner, was visible perhaps a thousand feet
deeper; bnt even an empty box, watched by a field-glass, could not be
traced to its concussion with the Valley floor. Finally, the landlord
appeared on the scene, carrying an antique hen under his arm. This, in
spite of the terrified ejaculations and entreaties of the ladies, he deliber
ately threw over the cliff's edge. A rooster might have gone thus to his
doom in stoic silence, but the sex of this unfortunate bird asserted itself
the moment it started on its awful journey into space. With an ear-
piercing cackle, that gradually grew fainter as it fell, the poor creature
shot downward; now beating the air with ineffectual wings, and now fran
tically clawing at the very wind, that slanted her first this way and then
that; thus the hapless fowl shot down, down, until it became a mere fluff
of feathers no larger than a quail. Then it dwindled to a wren's size, dis
appeared, then again dotted the sight a moment as a pin's point, and then
— it was gone!
After drawing a long breath all round, the women folks pitched into
the hen's owner with redoubled zest. But the genial McCauley shook
his head knowingly, and replied: —
"Don't be alarmed about that chicken, ladies. She's used to it. She
goes over that cliff every day during the season."
And, sure enough, on our road back we met the old hen about half
up the trail, calmly picking her way home!! fV)
D. D., you are a trump. Mark Twain could not beat that
story — except, perhaps, the one about a mean man in " Roughing
It," where the boss deducted ten rainutes frora a rainer's time,
after being tossed up by a premature blast, for being absent in
the air that long from his work !
Our enjoyable midday repast being over, let us now ride to
the surarait of SETINEL DOME.
This is four thousand one hundred and sixty feet above the
meadows of Yo Semite. It is a striking landraark, and as its
crown is alraost as clear of trees as though a tornado had swept

472 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
ruthlessly across it, the view in every direction is entirely unob
structed The vast amphitheater of the Sierras is before us. Did
time permit us we might profitably tarry here for hours, or even
days as new beauties would be opening, and strange forms made
manifest on every side and at every inoment. But the rapidly
declining sun admonishes us not to linger too long, if it is our fixed
purpose to return to the Valley in time for the evening meal.
If our spirit of enjoyment could be consulted, and the rich
scenic feast could be prolonged, we should tarry here untU sunset,
as the effects from this lofty eminence are not only magical and
majestic, but are siraply glorious ; then, after spending the night
at Glacier Point, watch the streaming tails of mighty comets,
tl^at corae at day-dawn to herald approaching morn from among
the snow-clad peaks and forest heights of the Sierras.
Then, after an appetizing breakfast, we can visit the " Fis
sures," some three miles distant, and then make an early return
to the Valley; or, journey upon its southern rim through prime
val forests, across grassy meadows, and adown flower-covered
slopes, to Inspiration Point, Mt. Beatitude, and the Standpoint of
Silence ; thence to the Valley by the Wawona Road, and live over
again its marvelous scenes. This, believe me, is a glorious jaunt.
But, if it is preferred, we
CAN RE-ENTER THE YO SEMITE VALLEY VIA SNOW'S.
The views upon either of the routes suggested are so utterly
unlike any others, here or elsewhere, that their very novelty
doubles the charm of looking upon them. Take, for instance, the
view of the Half Dorae from the Snow trail. It is so unlike any
other of this marvelous mountain that it might be most readily
adjudged a diiferent one. From this standpoint it is a sugar-loaf
in granite, as no portion of its vertical cleavage is anywhere visible-
Then, presently, we corae to the yawning gulf of the Too-
lool-a-we-ack Caiion beneath us, with its four hundred feet
water-fall ; and follow the wave-tossed cataract it is forming, -with
our eye, down the entire length of the gorge. Soon thereafter

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

473

we are riding on
the top of Echo
Wall, nearly three
thousand feet
above the mighty
chasra of the Mer
ged River; and
then thread our
way among the
troughs, or across
the ridges of bowl
der-built raoraines
which form the
lower base of
MT. STARR KING.
Did time and op
portunity permit,
we might climb to
its shoulder, and
thence obtain that
magnificent view;
but could not go

beyond this with- "^^^ south dome as seen from too-lool-a--we-ack, or
out jeoparding life
and lirab. Less than a dozen persons have been able to ascend it.
The first to do so was Mr. Geo. B. Bayley and Mr. E. S. Schuyler;
followed by Geo. Anderson and the writer, a few days afterwards,
who, having attached ropes over difficullJplaces, enabled Mrs. A.
L. Hutchings and our daughter Florence to ascend it, who were
the first and only ladies, at this writing, that have accomplished
the difficult task. Its crest is five thousand one hundred and
seventy-one feet above Yo Seraite Valley, and nine thousand one
liundred and five feet above sea level.
Soon the Nevada Falls, Cap of Liberty, Half Dorae, and

474

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

•i^.

M--.

Fboto. by C. L. Weed.
THE TOO-LOOL-A-WE-ACK, OB GLACIER CASON FALL (400 feet high).
other farailiar points, corae into review, and not long afterwards
we are at Snow's, and on the great trail thoroughfare to the
Valley. Before taking our farewell of Glacier Point, it should be
remarked that the Yo Seraite Stage and Turnpike Company
has constructed an excellent and highly picturesque carriage road,
frora the Wawona Turn jBce at Chinquapin Flat to Glacier Point ;
thus afibrding the opportAiity of looking upon its wondrous sights,
to those who could not malce the ascent on horseback. Many visi
tors ride up the Glacier Point Trail and take the western-bound
stage thence ; but, where it is preferred, visitors can go direct from
Chinquapin Flat, by coach, to Glacier Point, and thence down
the trail to Yo Seraite — a severe experience to those unaccustomed
to the saddle.

CHAPTER XXVIIL
THE UPPER YO SEMITE, EAGLE PEAK, LAKE TEN-IE-YA,
AND HIGH SIERRA.
I love to wander through the woodlands hoary
In the soft light of an autumnal day.
When summer gathers up her robes of glory.
And like a dream of beauty glides away.
— Saeah Helen Whitman.
I hear the muflfled tramp of years
Come SteaUng up the slope of Time;
They bear a train of smiles and tears,
Of buming hopes and dreams sublime. — James G. Clarke.
Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arise.
— Pope's Essay on Criticism.
When undertaking the delightful jaunt now proposed, we
repair to the north side of the Valley, and enter upon the Eagle
Peak Trail. This was engineered and constructed by Mr. John
Conway and sons, who performed a very valuable service to the
public by opening up very many of the magnificent scenes we
are about to witness, and that were before sealed from human
vision; but for which, I regret to say, no adequate compensa
tion was returned thera.
As we zigzag our way up it by an easy grade, stunted live-
oaks offer grateful shade, and raanzanita and wild lilac bushes
border it on either side. Trees, buildings, gardens, cattle, and
horses grow gradually more diminutive ; while surrounding gran
ite walls tower up bolder and higher. In peaceful repose sleeps
the Valley, its carpet of green cut up, perhaps, by pools of shin
ing water, and the serpentine course of the river reserables a
huge silver ribbon. At an elevation of 1,154 feet we rest at
(475)

476 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
COLUMBIA ROCK,
And thence look down upon the enchanting panorama that lies
before us. Everything visible below has become dwarfed; while
in the far-away distance above and beyond us, mountain peaks
are constantly revealing theraselves impressively, one after the
other. Remounting, we ascend a little, then ride along a broad
ledge of granite that, from the Valley, appears to be far too
narrow for a horse and its rider to travel upon in safety ; but,
finding ourselves mistaken, we presently arrive at
TRANSPORT POINT.
Here the horses are again left upon the trail, while we foot our
way to the edge of the overhanging wall, that, from below
looked so formidable a precipice. From this standpoint, not only
can the entire length of the lower Yo Semite Fall be seen ; but
the interjacent depths and irregularities of the intervening caiion
between the top of the lower, and foot of the upper fall ; while in
front of us the entire Upper Yo Semite Fall is in full view.
Charmingly attractive as this scene may be, we naturally wish to
seek a closer communion with its glories, and cannot rest until
we are almost BENEATH THE UPPER YO SEMITE FALL.
Speechless with reverential awe, we have reached the won
derful goal. But, alas! who can describe it? who fittingly tell
of its wonderful beauties, or describe its manifold glories, and
majestic presence? It is impossible. We look upward, and we
see an avalanche of water about to bury us up, or sweep us into
the abyss beneath. By degrees we take courage; and, climbing
the watery mass with our eye, discern its reraarkable changes
and forras. Now it would seem that nuraerous bands of fun-
loving fairies have set out for a frolic ; and, assummg the shape of
watery rockets, have entered the fall; and, after making the
leap, are now playing " hide-and-seek" with each other among
its watery folds; now chasing, now catching; then, with retreat
ing surprises, disappearing from view, and re-forming, or chang-

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

'Yll

ing, shoot again into sight. While the wind, as if shocked at
such playful irreverence, takes hold of the white diaraond mass,
and lifts it aside like a curtain ; when each rocket-formed fairy,
leaping down frora its folds, first fringes its edge, then disappears
from our sight, and is lost among rainbows and clouds.
The first great vertical leap of this fall being fifteen hun
dred feet, makes it scarcely less irapressive than El Capitan, when
standing against the wall at its foot. Just at the back of, and
immediately beneath it, there is a cave some forty feet in depth.
As the fall itself veils the entrance to this cave, it can only
be entered when the stream is low ; or, as not infrequently hap
pens, when the wind has sufficient force to lift the entire fall
to one side. On one of these occasions two venturesome young
men, who had climbed to the foot of the cliff, seeing the entrance
to the cave clear, ran into it ; but they had scarcely entered when

f hoto. by C. E. Watkinb.
CAVE AT THE BASE OF THK UPPER YO SEMITE FALL.

478 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
the fall, returning to its normal position, filled the aperture
with dense and comminuted spray, which made it next to impos
sible to breathe, while effectually cutting off their retreat. In
this nearly fatal dilerama they were helpless; but, fortunately, the
wind again swept its folds to one side, and they lost no time in
effecting their perilous escape. When relating their hazardous
feat, they both made voluntary confession never to be caught at
so foolish and so dangerous an experiment again !
Leaving this interesting and truly captivating spot, we con
tinue our crinkled way up the debris lying at the base'of Eagle
Tower wall (vertical for 1,600 feet), passing flowers and fiower
ing shrubs, to enter into the refreshing shade of a grove of yel
low pines, Pinus Jeffreyi, and soon thereafter find ourselves
at the TOP OF YO SEMITE FALL.
The current of this stream is very irregular. For nearly
half a mile it has a speed of about eight knots an hour; then,
for about two hundred yards from the lip of the mountain, it
leaps over a broken series of ledges into eddying pools, from
which it swirls, and swashes, and jumps, until it makes its final
bound over the precipice, and is lost to view. For about ten yards
back of the edge, the gray granite is so smooth that, lying down
upon it, clingingly, when the stream is absent, it would be impos
sible to prevent sliding over the brink, but for a narrow crack
in the rock where there is finger-hold. This enables us to cling
sufficiently, until we can work our way to a flattish, basin-like
hollow, in safety; whence one can creep out to the margin of the
abyss, and look down into it. My measurement here, by aneroid
baroraeter, made its height above the Valley two thousand six
hundred and forty feet. Its breadth at the lip is thirty-four feet;
and, twenty feet above it, seventy feet. One position on a pro
jecting ledge enables the eye to follow this water-fall from top to
base, and watch the ever-changing colors of its rainbow hues the
entire distance.
Frora this point it is a most delightful forest ride to Eagle

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 479
Meadows, their grassy glades, and pools covered with bright yellow
water-lilies, Nuphar polyaepalum, and thence to
EAGLE PEAK.
This was so naraed frora its being such a favorite resort of
this famous bird of prey. I once saw seven eagles here, at play;
they would skim out upon the air, one following the other,
and then swoop perpendicularly down for a thousand or more
feet, and thence sail out again horizontally upon the air with
such graceful nonchalance that one alraost envied them their
apparent gratification.
The altitude of this rugged cliff above the Valley is three
thousand eight hundred and eighteen feet, three hundred and
thirty feet lower than the Sentinel Dome on the other side ; but
owing to the great vertical depth of the gulf immediately be
neath it, as well as the coraprehensive panorama frora and around
about it, not only is the entire upper end of the Valley, with
its wild depths and canon defiles, visible therefrom, but the whole
, sweep of the distant Sierras, as far as the eye can reach.
I once had the pleasure of conducting the Rev. J. P. New
man, D. D., and Rev.  Sunderland, D. D. (each, then, of
Washington, D. C), to its wondrous summit; when, after a long,
and evidently constrained silence, the forraer suddenly ejaculated,
"Glory! Hal-le-lu-jah — Glory! Hal-le-lu-jah ' " (the doctor was a
Methodist, you know) then, turning around, the tears literally
streaming down his cheeks, he thus expressed himself: " Well, Mr.
H, if I had crossed the continent of Araerica on purpose to
look upon this one vieiv, I should have returned home, sir, per
fectly satisfied."
Eleven of us (six ladies and five gentlemen), after a most
delightful camping sojourn of three months in the High Sierra,
concluded that to revisit this spot would be a befitting finale to
our summer's pilgriraage. Accordingly some eight additional
days were spent upon the grassy raeadows below, and in raaking
daily ascents to the culminating crest of Eagle Peak. It is a view
that seems never to weary, or to becorae coramon-place. Gather-

480 IN THE HEART OF TUE SIERRAS.
ing storm-clouds admonishing an early departure we gave re
luctant consent; to find, that, within twenty-four hours after
breaking up camp, three feet of snow had covered the ground.
LAKE TEN-IE-YA.
As Eagle Peak Trail is the one necessarily traveled from the
great Valley to Lake Ten-ie-ya, and as we have supposedly
reached the top of the mountain, and are thus far on our way;,
let us continue our journey up or down forest-clothed ravines,
amid and over low ridges, and across the heads of green meadows,.
with here and there an occasional glimpse of distant mountain
peaks, until we reach Porcupine Flat ; thence to travel upon the
Great Sierra Mining Company's Turnpike road all the way t»
the beautiful lake. It should here be stated that by this thorough
fare travelers can now drive not only among the tops of the
Sierras, but over their summit, by leaving the Big Oak Flat road
near Crocker's.
Following the dancing and sparkling waters of Snow Creek,
which have their source in the snow-banks of Mt. Hoffman, there
can, on every hand, be witnessed the unmistakable evidencfes of
glacial action, in the moraines, and highly polished and deeply
striated granite that can everywhere be seen ; not in mere patches
only, but many miles in extent. On every peak, mountain
shoulder and bare ledge, where disintegration has not removed the
writing, the record is so plain that "he who runs may read."
Thi§ is most strikingly manifest from the Hoffman ridge down
to Lake Ten-ie-ya. The entire slope, sorae three miles long, is
glacier-polished, and before the road was built the utraost care
was needed, in passing down the trail, to prevent horses from
falling. The glistening surfaces attract alraost as much atten
tion, for the time being, as the scenery.
Refulgent, however, with sheen, the bright bosora of
BEAUTIFUL LAKE TEN-IE-YA
Can be seen glinting between the trees, and erelong we are
treading upon its pine-bordered shores. Oh ! how charming the

TUE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 481
landscape. Mountains frora one thousand to two thousand five
hundred feet in height bound it on the east and on the south.
At the head of the lake they are more or less dome-shaped,
glacier-rounded, and polished; on the south, Ten-ie ya Peak
towers boldly up, and throws distinctly and repeatedly back the
echoes of our voice. But for persuasive reraonstrances from our
organs of digestion, we could almost believe that we were in Fairy
Land. These humanizing appeals, however, are not to be re
pressed, and, as a sequence, we find ourselves crossing the hospi
table threshold of murphy's CABIN.
The narae of its builder and proprietor being John L.
Murphy, let me without ceremony introduce him. Mr. Murphy
is one of the old-time residents, and was, formerly, one of the most
obliging and reliable of the guides of Yo Semite. If you will
read H. H.'s " Bits of Travel," you will find a correctly drawn
and full length pen-portrait of hira. Wiry with exercise, grizzled
by exposure, and healthy frora breathing pure raountain air, he
is a little Hercules in strength and endurance. Then there are
but few, if any, more kindly-hearted, genial, and thoughtfully
careful of your corafort than he. Be sure of one thing, the mo
ment you feel the grip of his manly hand, and have one look
into his honest face, you will feel thoroughly at home with him ;
in entire confidence, therefore, we may share his kindly care.
This charraing raountain-locked lake is about one and three-
quarter miles in length by three-quarters of a raile in width;
and although very deep on its southern side is quite shallow
on its northern, so that before the new road was built, the course
of the trail eastward was, for half a mile, directly through it, to
avoid the mountainous defile north of its encompassing bluffs.
A "WHAT is IT."
There is a most curious phenomenon observable here, nearly
every still raorning during sumraer, that deservedly attracts at
tention. It is a peculiar sound, soraething between a whistle and
31

482 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
a hiss, that shoots through the air with startling velocity, appar
ently about a mile above the surface of the water. Its course is
generally from south and west to north and east; although it
seemingly travels, at tiraes, in all conceivable directions, and with
a velocity much greater than a screeching shell in battle. Now
the question arises, "What is the cause of all this? " Can it be
from the rapid passage of currents of electricity through the air,
or the rush of air through some upper stratum ? Will some one
who knows kindly answer the question, " What is it? "
The raountains around the lake — Ten-ie-ya Peak, Ten-ie-ya
Dome, and Murphy's Dome, standing out most prominently —
are very irregular in their form and cleavage, but yet are un
speakably picturesque. This, with the quaint ruggedness of the
Pinus contorta trees which grow' upon its raargin; the glacier
polish and striae upon nearly all of its surrounding granite; the
balray healthiness of its suramer air (as meat never spoils, on the
hottest of days), its altitude above sea level being seven thousand
nme hundred and seventy feet , the purity of its waters, and its
central position for climbing every grand peak around it, should
make Lake Ten-ie-ya one of the most delightful summer resorts
in the world ; especially when its waters are well stocked with
fish, and the sheep-herder no longer pastures his sheep near, which
drive away all the game that would naturally seek these great
solitudes. Attractive as this wildly romantic spot may be, we
raust leave it and its genial hermit, for a time at least, to visit,.
;a spirit, sorae of
THE GLORIOUS SCENES IN THE HIGH SIERRA.
From Yo Semite to the summit of the Sierra Nevada there abounds more-
grand scenery than can be found in any other portion of the State.
— Prof. W. H Brewer.
The marvelous scenic and natural phenomena of the High
Sierra was as a closed volume to nearly all except the irrepressible
prospector and vandalistic sheep-herder, until its wondrous pages
were opened to the public by the California State Geological
Survey, under Prof. J, D. Whitney Although nature here builds

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

483

her prodigious reservoirs of snow, storms hold unchecked carni
val , and the chemistry of trituration is silently manipulating its
manifold forces, and eliminating scenes of grandeur that charm
both eye and soul, human eyes and thoughts could not before
look in upon her astonishing laboratory. Now, however, the
glorious book is wide open, and its inviting leaves can be turned
by every mind. Being a vast and interesting volume of it.self.

I can now only epitomize and outline some of its principal at
tractions, that are as wild and wonderful in their way as the
Yo Semite itself, while being utterly unlike it. The one nearest,
and whoso bold prominence we have noticed from all the high
points raore immediately around the Valley, is
MOUNT HOFFMANN.
The sumrait of this raountain is ten thousand eight hundred
and seventy-two feet above sea level, and the view frora it com
mandingly fine. Just beneath its northern wall is the horseshoe-

484 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
shaped head of Yo Semite Creek, with its nuraerous little glacier-
scooped lakelets; and wliich, with deep snow banks, form the
main source of Yo Semite Creek. Here that stream heads.
About one hundred feet from its apex is
THE UPPER MARGIN OF THE TIMBER LINE,
Where stunted pines, Pinus albicaulis, form the only and
highest occupant. Owing to the density of foliage and singular
contour of these trees, caused mainly by exposure of situation
and the depth of winter snows, one could, with care, walk on
their tops, seldom over a dozen feet above the ground. As in
tiraated elsewhere, the upper tiraber line of the Sierras in this
latitude never exceeds eleven thousand feet ; at Fisherman's Peak
(unfairly called Mt. Whitney) it is twelve thousand two hundred
and twenty, while at Mt. Shasta, it is only eight thousand feet.
Beyond and above these the whole chain consists of bleak and
¦storm-beaten peaks and crags; yet, though forest verdure is
denied thera, beautiful flowers bloom in sheltered hollows, to their
very summits How thoughtlessly do we sometimes allude to
" the bleak and desolate raountains," forgetting that in these are
treasured the subtile essences needed for the pabulum of plant,
and other organic life, even to their coloring and fragrance.
Were we to lingeringly dwell on these, or upon the echoes
thrown from peak to peak upon this crest, where " Every mount
ain now hath found a tongue," or in viewing the numberless rocky
pinnacles and placid lakes in sight, I fear that other scenes and
charms would remain unenjoyed; therefore, let us return to Lake
Ten-ie-ya, with the impression that another glorious and ,soul-
filling day has been raost profitably spent.
Rafting on the lake, musing, sketching, day-dreaming, nor
even pleasant chats with the kind old Hermit of Lake Ten-
ie-ya, raust detain us from taking the picturesque road along the
margin of this captivating sheet of water; and, threading our way
by the side of bold bluffs, along the tree-arched road, and across
a low ridge into the

TUE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 485
TOULUMNE MEADOWS.
These afford such striking contrast to other sights witnessed
that they soraewhat calra the excited imagination by their sylvan
peacefulness, and by gratified change prepare us for the sublirae
scenes that everywhere stand guard. Of course, we must visit
THE SODA SPRINGS.
There are several of these that fiow bubblingly up in close
proxiraity to each other, and offer us a deliciously refreshing
drink of aerated soda water. Here, too, we raay raeet a herrait-
artist named Lembert, who annually brings his Angora goats to
feed upon the succulent pastures, whilst he makes sketches.
Here we are eight thousand five hundred and fifty-eight feet above
the sea. Leaving these we pass glacier-polished bluffs, cross en
tire ridges and valley stretches of moraine talus, and in about
nine spirit-delighting miles, reach the camping ground of Mount
Dana. Knowing that blankets and other creature comforts are
essential for these extended trips, such things have naturally been
provided, preparatory to spending a pleasant night here before
attempting THE ASCENT OF MOUNT DANA.
Our course to the surarait of this lofty standpoint, after
leaving carap, is on the back of an old raoraine for sorae three
miles, where Dana Canon is entered. Here we leave the last tree
behind and below us, and thenceforward find nothing but stunted
willow bushes, which also are soon left behind, and at an elevation
of eleven thousand seven hundred and fifty feet, we are on the
saddle, or connecting neck, between Mt. Gibbs and Mt. Dana.
Just over the ridge is a large bowlder which, when a rope is tied
around it, makes a safe and sheltered point for tethering horses.
The ascent thence is on foot, over fragmentary chips and blocks
of metaraorphic slate, of which this entire raountain is composed,
in an endless variety of colors and shades. Once upon its glorious
apex, we are thirteen thousand two hundred and twenty-seven
feet above the level of the sea.

486 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT DANA.
The most expressive of language must utterly fail to describe
this scene. The vast amphitheater of mountains, caiions, and
lakes extending in every direction to the horizon is unutterably
sublime and bewildering. North of east, down in a gulf of six
thousand seven hundred and seventy-three feet, restfully sleeps
Lake Mono, which, although eighteen by twenty-three miles
across, is dwarfed into comparative insignificance; beyond this
lie the vast deserts and green oases of the State of Nevada, with
their inexhaustible mineral wealth. Trending northward, the ir
regular mountain-formed vertebrse of the great backbone of the
Sierras, with Mts. Warren, Conness, and Castle Peak stand up
above yet among thousands of lesser ones; while southward, in
stately prominence, soar Mts. Lyell, Ritter, and numberless others.
Westward the penumbi-a of light and shade defines every lofty
crag and peak that surrounds the wonderful Valley, with every
bristling interraediate spire, and cone, and dome.
EVIDENCES OF ANCIENT GLACIERS UPON MT. DANA.
Along the western and southern slopes of Mt. Dana [says Prof. J.
D. Whitney*] the traces of ancient glaciers are very distinct, up to a
height of 12,000 feet. In the gap directly south of the summit a mass of
ice must once have existed, having a thickness of at least 800 feet at as
high an elevation as 10,500 feet. From all the gaps and valleys of the
west side of the range, tributary glaciers came down, and all united in
one grand mass lower in the valley, where the medial moraines which ac
cumulated between them are perfectly distinguishable, and in places as
regularly formed as any to be seeu in the Alps at the present day.
It is, therefore, reasonably presumable that glaciers once
covered the apex of Mt. Dana also, then probably much higher,
to a depth "of at least eight hundred feet," which would give
an aggregate approximate depth or thickness of glacial ice in
Yo Semite Valley of nearly two miles !
*Yosemite Guide Book, page 103.

l:-:,.t.,.hyS.C. II .u-t,;-

r/i.'t.'-n/'.' ly ft,-il!,„i &¦ A'o , .s. F.

Mount Lyell hnd its Glacier, from Tuolumne Mehdows.
(See pages 487-8 )

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 487
THE LIVIXG GLACIERS OF MT. DANA.
In the deep vertical chasm under the northern wall of Mt.
Dana and near its crest, there is a vast deposit of ice that remains
unmelted through all seasons of the year. Unlike that on Mt.
Lyell, however, it is completely locked in by encompassing mount
ain that precludes the possibility of motion, except normalh^ as
the ice melts. This forms one of the main sources of the Tuol
umne River. On the very sumrait of this bleak landraark grow
bunches of bright purple flowers, the Jacob's Ladder of the High
Sierra, Polemonium confertum,.
Leaving these enrapturing scenes and mysteries, let us wend
our delighting way, over old moraines, and past the glacier-
polished floor of the Lyell branch of the Tuolumne meadows, to
their head, where there is an excellent campin'g ground, whence
the hoary head of Mt. Lyell itself looras grandly up, six railes
away. Here we are at an altitude of eight thousand nine hun
dred and fifty feet. Forest fires set by sheep-herders having de
nuded rauch of the lower portion of the ascent of its tiraber, we
must not expect the refreshing shade forraerly enjoyed frora it.
At this altitude, however, the heat is in no way oppressive, al
though we have on foot to make
THE ASCENT OF MT. LYELL.
Believe me, this is a glorious clirab. The invigorating air
seeras to perraeate every fiber and nerve, and to penetrate alraost
to the raarrow of one's bones. Flowers, fiowering shrubs, and
ferns, with occasional groups of trees, continue with us to the
limit of the timber line, and the forraer to the very surarait, which
is thirteen thousand two hundred and twenty feet above sea level.
THE LIVING GLACIER OF MT. LYELL.
About fifteen hundred feet below its culrainating crest we
reach the foot of the glacier, portions of which having broken off
and fallen into a small deep lakelet, distinctly reveal the ethereal
blue of the icy deposit. This fine glacier is about two miles in

488 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
length, having a direction southeasterly by northwesterly, by
half a mile in width, with an estiraated depth, or thickness, of
from three hundred to five hundred feet. Deep down in the un
seen profound of its blue crevasses, water can be heard singing
and gurgling, from which emanate the streams that form the
source of the main, or Lyell branch, of the Tuolumne River. By
several experiments, such as the setting of stakes in line with the
general trend of the glacier, it has been ascertained to move at
the rate of from .seven-eighths to one inch per day. A large por
tion of its surface is corrugated by a succession of ridge% and
furrows, from about twenty inches to two feet apart, and the
same in depth; having a resemblance to a chopping sea whose
waves had been suddenly frozen
The upper edge of this living glacier is about one hundred
and seventy feet below the rocky apex of Mt. Lyell, " which was
found to be a sharp and inaccessible pinnacle of granite rising
above a field of snow."* Merabers of the State Geological Sur
vey Corps having considered it impossible to reach the sumrait
of this lofty peak, the writer was astonished to learn from Mr.
A. T. Tileston, of Boston, after his return to the Valley from a
jaunt of health and pleasure in the High Sierra, that he had
personally proven it to be possible by making the ascent. In
credible as it seemed at the time, three of us found Mr. Tile-
ston's card upon it some ten days afterwards.
MT. LYELL THE MAIN SOURCE OF TWO RIVERS.
On the southern side of Mt. Lyell there is an almost vertical
wall of granite some twelve hundred feet high, rising from a
rock-rimraed basin, whose sheltered sides hoard vast banks of
snow, which, melting, form the main water supply of the Mer
ced River, flowing through the Yo Semite Valley. Thus Mt.
Lyell becomes the source of two valuable streams, the Merced on
the south, and the Tuolumne on the north and east.
Of course the view from this magnificent standpoint is ex-
* Yosemite Guide Book, page 104.

TUE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 489
ceptionally imposing. Not only are there lofty and isolated single
peaks without number, but distinct groups of mountains, that
form the sources of as many streams, or their tributaries; with
broad lakes and deep canons on every hand, extending as far as
huraan vision can penetrate, but of which Mt. Lyell seems to be
the center. Leveling across to Mt. Ritter (apparently only a
stone's throw from us, although .some five miles distant), we judged
its altitude to exceed that of Mt. Lyell by about one hundred
and thirty feet. The glaciers of Mt. Ritter and the Minarets
originate and supply the waters of the main north fork of
the San Joaquin River. While seated among the blocks of rock
that lie on the edge of this glorious crag, a little " chipmunk "
ran out from a crevice and began to chatter at us ; but we as
sured him that we were in no way envious of his exalted choice,
nor anxious to disturb his prior possessory right or preemption
claira. Loose masses of rock, having becorae detached from its crest,
have toppled down upon the' glacier; which, in its almost im
perceptible declivity, has silently borne them to the edge of the
glacier basin, and there dropped them. These form an irregular
wall sorae two hundred feet in height, among which the new
born stream creeps gurglingly, and thence issues forth. These
visible glacial " dumps," as miner's would call them, are suggestive
of the way that many raoraines are first forraed.
Treeless slopes, pools, piles of disintegrated rock, broadening
strearas, and water-worn crevices, with abundant plant life, con
tinue with us from the surarait of Mt. Lyell down to the tira
ber line (here sorae two thousand four hundred feet below), where
the Pinus albicaulis becomes the only forest tenant for sorae dis
tance; soon, however, to be left behind for the companionship of
the Pinus contorta, P. Jeffreyii, Abies Pattoniana, and other
trees, until we arrive at picturesque " Camp Mt. LyeU;" thence
through God's most glorious picture gallery back via Cathedral
Spires and Cathedral Lake, Echo Peak and Echo Lake, Temple
Peak, Monastery Peak, Moraine Valley, Sunrise Ridge, Nevada
and Vernal Falls, to Yo Semite.

CHAPTER XXIX.
THE SEASONS AT YO SEMITE VALLEY.
The spring, the summer,
The chilling autumn, angry winter, change
Their wonted liveries.
Shakespear's Midsummer Night's Dream, Act II.
Everything lives, flourishes, and decays; everything dies, but nothing is lost.
Good's Book of Nature.
Perhaps it may turn out a song, —
Perhaps turn out a sermon. BuBNs' Epistle to a Young Friend.
Frequently and earnestly has the question been asked,
WHICH IS THE BEST TIME TO GO TO YO SEMITE?
To which I would make answer — not flippantly, or inconsid
erately — That which best suits your own personal convenience.
The rest should be determined by individual taste and preference.
When a warm, early spring first lifts the fiood-gates of the snow-
built reservoirs above, the water fiows abundantly over the falls ;
but the deciduous trees are leafless, and the earth, unkissed by
renewing sunshine for so many months, has put forth no grasses
or flowers. Later, when the trees are budding and the blossoms
are just peeping, there is a suggestive softness in the new birth
developing. Later still the fragrant blossoms fill the air with red
olence, and the birds with morning and evening songs. Still
later, luscious fruits contribute their inviting treasures to the
generous feast ; while the deep rich music of the leaping water
falls rolls out its constant psean of joy. And, still later, possibly
there is less of the aqueous eleraent, but ethereal haze drapes every
crag and dorae, and fills every crevice and canon, so that each
mountain crest apparently penetrates farther and higher into the
(490)

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 491
deep blue of the va.st firmament abo-^e. This of all others would
seem to be the most befitting time for day-dreaming, reading,
and renewing rest for both body and mind ; and is, moreover, the
one par excellence for the indulgencies of an angler's heaven.
But, stiU later, comes "Jack Frost," with his inimitable
color brush, and tips all deciduous leaves with brightness; and so
dyes and transforms the landscape that one impressively and
conscientiously feels that this, above all others, is the best season
to visit Yo Semite. Then, as though all nature was in fullest
sympathy with such transcendent loveliness, every stretch of
still water, in lake or river, doubles every wondrous charm by re
flecting it upon its bosora, so that every bush or tree that raay
be struggling for life in the narrow crevices of the raountain
walls around, are all raost faithfully rairrored.
Then, the glorious fact should not be overlooked, that the
marvelous mountain walls, and spires, and domes, are always
there; and, being there, are, in themselves, an all-sufficient rec
ompense without any supplementary accessories whatsoever. It
will, therefore, and at once be seen that my statement is both
correct and conclusive, that the best time to visit Yo Semite is
" that which bests suits your convenience " all others being merely
a matter of taste.
There is, however, one season, apart from all others, when it
is next to irapossible, for the average traveler, at the present, to
visit Yo Seraite, and that is in the depth of winter. Therefore,
as this cannot be conveniently witnessed, and as the writer, with
his faraily, spent many there, as narrated on pages 141, 142, he
feels that this work would be incomplete without a brief out
line of THE YO SEMITE VALLEY IN WINTER.
As intimated on pages 347, 348, snow begins to fall early in
Noveraber, but this soon disappears before the delightfully balray
Indian sumraer which succeeds, and which continues with but
little interraission, both days and nights gradually growing
colder, until late in December, when a light fleecy film commences

492 IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.
to drift across the chasm from the south — the usual quarter for
rain in California — which soon begins to intensify and deepen;
then, large dark mas.ses of cloud begin to gather beneath the lighter
strata, with occasional stretches of sunlight sandwiched in be
tween the diferent layers. At intervals those dark masses of
cloud break into fragraentary patches, when a lambent sheen
illumines all their edges with a golden glow ; then the wind in fit
ful gusts coraraences to toss thera into different shapes, seemingly
in playful preparation for marshaling all these aerial forces into
line, before making the final swoop upon the sleeping Valley.
Nearly every rain or snow-storm in the Sierras is heralded in by
a strong, squally wind; and the same phenoraena is generally ob
servable when raarching it out. Soon thereafter broad belts of
cloud come sweeping down among the raountain peaks, " Like a
wolf on the fold," draping every crag, and dorae, and wall with
its vapory raantle, probably just as night closes in; then how
steadily does the rain or snow fall down !
THE GREAT FLOOD OF 1867.
On Deceraber 23, 1867, after a snow fall of about three feet,,
a heavy down-pour of rain set in, and incessantly continued for
ten successive days; when every little hollow had its own particu
lar water-faU, or cascade, throughout the entire circumference of
the VaUey; each rivulet becarae a foaming torrent, and every
stream a thundering cataract. The whole meadow land of the
Valley was covered by a surging and irapetuous flood to an aver
age depth of nine feet. Bridges were swept away, and every
thing fioatable was carried off. And, supposing that the usual
¦ spring flow of water over the Yo Semite Fall would be about six
thousand gallons per second, as stated by Mr. H. T. MiUs,* at this
particular time it must have been at least twelve or fourteen tiines
that araount, giving sorae eighty thousand gallons per second.
Large trees, that were four to six feet in diameter, would shoot,
endwise, over the lip of the upper Yo Seraite; and, after making
*See page 376.

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 493
a surging swirl or two downwards, strike the unyieldmg granite
and be shivered into fragments. At this tirae our faraily, con
sisting of two of the gentler sex, two young children, rayself, and
one man-servant, were the only residents of the Valley. The lat
ter named, was dreadfuUy exercised over it, as he feared that the
last day had come, and the world was about to be destroyed the
second time by a flood ! Immense quantities of talus were washed
down upon the Valley during this storm, — more than at any time
for scores, if not hundreds, of years, judging from the low talus
ridges, and the timber growth upon them. After this rain-storm
had ceased, a wind sprung up, and blew down over one hundred
trees. In one spot of less than seven acres twenty-three large
pines and cedars were piled, crosswise, upon each other.
Alas! at such a time, how fortunate the man or woraan
who has a cozy cabin, with an open fire-place ; plenty of fire- wood,
an abundance of provisions, books, agreeable companionship, and
pleasant occupation. The beating of the storm upon the window
panes, its heavy rain-drops on the roof, or the silent footfall of
the fast deepening snow, with such surroundings, have no ap
palling terrors for him. But — to the benighted traveler, far from
home and shelter, what? " God help him!" will be-the spontane
ous ejaculation of every earnest and feelingly huraane heart.
Morning dawns, and the feathery crystals are still falling
rapidly; the day rolls slowly on, and night again drops down her
curtain, yet still it snows. Day follows day, and night succeeds
night, for many days and nights, perhaps, without the least ces
sation of the storm. I have known eleven feet of snow to fall
without the shortest intermission. But, finally it comes; and,
while hostilities are suspended, let us take one lingering look upon
our fairy-like s^urroundings on the outside. Believe rae, the scene
without seems like A WORK OF ENCHANTMENT.
And we intuitively ask, " Is this, verily, the sarae spot of earth
upon which we looked previous to the advent of the storra? " Alas !

494

ISr THE HEART OF TUE SIERRAS.

THE NORWEGIAN SNOW-SHOE USED .iT YO SEMITE IN WINTE .4.
how changed. Every twig is bent down, every branch laden, and
every tree covered with the silvery garment.
Along every bough most delicately reposes a semi-translucent
frosting of snow, with diamond settings between the forks of
each and every twig or branch, which, when the sun shines upon
thera, or rather through them, lights them up with a frosted glory
that seems more like the creations of some wonderful Magi, by
ages of labor, than of crystallized water within a night or two.
Then, to look upon and up the mountain walls that surround the
marvelous Valley, and see every bench, and shelf, or jutting rock ;
every lofty peak, or noble dome ; and every sheltering hollow filled
with snow. Can artist or poet, painter or writer, do justice to
such a scene? Alas! no.
Speechless with admiration, even while we are gazing upon

Plioto by Ceo, lii.ke. EngravBd by J. M. H.iy. s. F.
ICE CONE OF 5.50 FEET, BENEATH THK UPPER YO SE.MlTE FALL.

TUE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 495
it, a new revelation dawns upon us, for everywhere around we
hear rushing, rattling, hissing, booraing avalanches corae shooting
frora the mountain-tops, adown precipitous hoUows, and creat
ing fresh sources of attraction; with new combinations of im
pressions, that must be alike diverting and satisfymg to both
artistic and poetic feeling. Then, before these sounds can have
been repeated in echoes, and hurled from wall to wall, or from
crag to peak, another avalanche makes the leap; and, like its
predecessor, indicates the birth of a new water -fall, in some
strange and unheard-of place.
THE YO SEMITE FALL IN WINTER.
On every frosty night iramense masses of ice fringe both
sides of every water-fall at Yo Seraite; the upper Yo Seraite
most noticeably so. Icicles over a hundred and thirty feet in
length, and frora fifteen to twenty-five feet in diaraeter, are often
seen ; and which, when iUurainated by morning sunlight, sciutiUato
forth all the prismatic colors. These, however, resplendently
briUiant and beautiful as they appear, have but a brief existence,
inasrauch as the sarae sunlight that creates such gorgeous hues,
melts away their frozen shackles, and drops them down, thunder-
ingly, many tons in a minute; and before the echoes of one re
verberating peal have died away others keep following in rapid
succession, until every fragraent of ice has peeled oflf and fallen.
This being repeated nearly every bright winter's morning,
causes vast quantities of ice to accumulate at the base of the fall ;
to which con.stant additions are made of infinitesimal atoms of
spray, that percolate filteringly among the broken icicles, and
which, by freezing, ceraent thera all so compactly together that an
enormous cone of solid ice is buUt iraraediately beneath it, to
which every snow-storm suppleraents its due proportion. The nett
results of this hibernal aggregation being to fill the entire basin
at the base of the fall, some ten acres in extent, with consolidated
ice ; and which varies in depth or thickness from three hundred to
five hundred and fifty feet, according to the season. In 1882,

496

IN THE HEART OF THE SIERRAS.

when the photograph was taken from which the accompanying
engraving was made, it was at the maximum stated.
When the spring thaw in the mountains commences in real
earnest, a vast sheet of water shoots over the top of the fall wall,
down upon this cone of ice, in which it soon excavates a basin;
and when this is cut out to a depth of from twenty to fifty feet,
the entire fall leaps into it, and at once rebounds in billowy,
volumes of cloud over a thousand feet; and, when the sunlight
strikes this seething, eddjdng mass of comminuted spray thus ris
ing, it lights it up with all the colors of the rainbow and presents
one of the most gorgeous spectacles ever seen by human eyes.
The constantly recurring scenic revelations at Yo Semite
lead us, in worshipful adrairation as we say farewell, to breathe
the beautiful words of Moore: —
" The earth shall be my fragrant shrme!
My temple, Lord! that arch of thine;
My censer's breath, the mountain airs;
And silent thoughts, my only prayers."

YALE UNIVERSITY

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