YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Gift of
W.L. Ehrich

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

IN

NOETH and CENTRAL AFRICA.

JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION

CMDEHTAJiEN

UNDER THE AUSPICES OF EB.M.'S GOVERNMENT,

IN THE YEAKB

1849—1855.

HENRY BAETH, Ph.D., D.C.L.,
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASIATIC SOCIETIES,
&c, &c.

IN THEEE VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1857.

TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE

THE EARL OF CLARENDON, K.G., G.C.B.,

ETC., ETC., ETC.,

HER MAJESTY 'ti SECRETARY OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS,
THESE VOLUMES,

CONTAINING AN ACCOUKT OF

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA,
MADE UNDEE HIS LORDSHIP'S AUSPICES,
ABE,
IN GBATEFOX ACKNOWLEDGMENT FOE MANY ACTS OF KINDNESS,
jBebiratcb,

BY HIS OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE

On the 5th of October, 1849, at Berlin, Professor Carl Bitter
informed me that the British government was about to send
Mr. Richardson on a mission to Central Africa, and that they
had offered, through the Chevalier Bunsen, to allow a German
traveler to join the mission, provided he was willing to contrib
ute two hundred pounds for his own personal traveling expenses.
I had commenced lecturing at the University of Berlin on
comparative geography and the colonial commerce of antiquity,
and had just at that time published the first volume of my
"Wanderings round the Mediterranean, ".which comprised my
journey through Barbary. Having undertaken this journey
quite alone, I spent nearly my whole time with the Arabs, and
familiarized myself with that state of human society where the
camel is man's daily companion, and the culture of the date-tree
his chief occupation. I made long journeys through desert
tracts ; I traveled all round the Great Syrtis, and, passing
through the picturesque little tract of Cyrenaica, traversed the
whole country toward Egypt ; I wandered about for above a
month in the desert valleys between Aswan and Koser, and aft
erward pursued my journey by land all the way through Syria
and Asia Minor to Constantinople.
While traversing these extensive tracts, where European com
fort is never altogether out of reach, where lost supplies may be
easily replaced, and where the protection of European powers is
not quite without avail, I had often cast a wistful look toward
those unknown or little-known regions in the interior, which
stand in frequent, though irregular connection with the coast.
As a lover of ancient history, I had been led toward those re
gions rather through the commerce of ancient Carthage than by

viii PREFACE.

the thread of modern discovery, and the desire to know some
thing more about them acted on me like a charm. In the course
of a conversation I once held with a Hausa slave in Kaf, in the
regency of Tunis, he, seeing the interest I took in his native
country, made use of the simple but impressive words, "Please
God, you shall go and visit Kano." These words were con
stantly ringing in my ears ; and though overpowered for a time
by the vivid impressions of interesting and picturesque coun
tries, they echoed with renewed intensity as soon as I was re
stored to the tranquillity of European life.
During my three years' traveling I had ample opportunity of
testing the efficacy of British protection; I experienced the kind
ness of all her Britannic majesty's consuls from Tangiers to
Brusa, and often enjoyed their hospitality. It was solely their
protection which enabled me to traverse with some degree of
security those more desert tracts through which I wandered.
Colonel Warrington, her majesty's consul in Tripoli, who seems
to have had some presentiment of my capabilities as an African
explorer, even promised me his full assistance if I should try to
penetrate into the interior. Besides this, my admiration of the
wide extension of the British over the globe, their influence, their
language, and their government, was such that I felt a strong-
inclination to become the humble means of carrying out their
philanthropic views for the progressive civilization of the neg
lected races of Central Africa.
Under these circumstances, I volunteered cheerfully to accom
pany Mr. Eichardson, on the sole condition, however, that the
exploration of Central Africa should be made the principal ob
ject of the mission, instead of a secondary one, as had been orig
inally contemplated.
In the mean time, while letters were interchanged between
Berlin, London, and Paris (where Mr. Richardson at that time
resided), my father, whom I had informed of my design, entreat
ed me to desist from my perilous undertaking with an earnest
ness which my filial duty did rot allow me to resist ; and giving
way to Dr. Overweg, who in youthful enthusiasm came imme
diately forward to volunteer, I receded from my engagement.

PEEFACE. jx

But it was too late, my offer having been officially accepted in
London ; and I therefore allayed my father's anxiety, and join
ed the expedition.
It was a generous act of Lord Palmerston, who organized the
expedition, to allow two foreign gentlemen to join it instead of
one. A sailor was besides attached to it ; and a boat was also
provided, in order to give full scope to the object of exploration.
The choice of the sailor was unfortunate, and Mr. Richardson
thought it best to send him back from Murzuk ; but the boat,
which was carried throughout the difficult and circuitous road
by Murzuk, Ghat, Air, and Zinder, exciting the wonder and as
tonishment of all the tribes in the interior, ultimately reached its
destination, though the director of the expedition himself had in
the mean while unfortunately succumbed.
Government also allowed us to take out arms. At first it
had been thought that the expedition ought to go unarmed, in
asmuch as Mr. Richardson had made his first journey to Ghat
without arms. But on that occasion he had gone as a private
individual, without instruments, without presents, without any
thing ; and we were to unite with the character of an expedition
that of a mission — that is to say, we were to explore the coun
try while endeavoring at the same time to establish friendship
with the chiefs and rulers of the different territories. It may be
taken for granted that we should never have crossed the frontier
of Air had we been unarmed ; and when I entered upon my
journey alone, it would have been impossible for me to proceed
without arms through countries which are in a constant state
of war, where no chief or ruler can protect a traveler except with
a large escort, which is sure to run away as soon as there is any
real danger.
It may be possible to travel without arms in some parts of
Southern Africa ; but there is this wide difference, that the na
tives of the latter are exclusively Pagans, while, along all those
tracts which I have been exploring, Islamism and Paganism are
constantly arrayed against each other in open or secret warfare,
even if we leave out of view the unsafe state of the roads
through large states consisting, though loosely connected to-

PREFACE.

gether, of almost independent provinces. The traveler in such
countries must carry arms ; yet he must exercise the utmost
discretion in using them. As for myself, I avoided giving of
fense to the men with whom I had to deal in peaceful inter
course, endeavoring to attach them to me by esteem and friend
ship. I have never proceeded onward without leaving a sincere
friend behind me, and thus being sure that, if obliged to retrace
my steps, I might do so with safety.
But I have more particular reason to be grateful for the opin
ion entertained of me by the British government ; for after Mr.
Richardson had, in March, 1851, fallen a victim to the noble
enterprise to which he had devoted his life, her majesty's gov
ernment honored me with their confidence, and, in authorizing
me to carry out the objects of the expedition, placed sufficient
means at my disposal for the purpose. The position in which
I was thus placed must be my excuse for undertaking, after the
successful accomplishment of my labors, the difficult task of re
lating them in a language not my own.
In matters of science and humanity all nations ought to he
united by one common interest, each contributing its share in
proportion to its own peculiar disposition and calling. If I have
been able to achieve something in geographical discovery, it is
difficult to say how much of it is due to English, how much to
German influence ; for science is built up of the materials col
lected by almost every nation, and, beyond all doubt, in geo
graphical enterprise in general none has done more than the
English, while, in Central Africa in particular, very little has
been achieved by any but English travelers. Let it not, there
fore, be attributed to an undue feeling of nationality if I correct
any error of those who preceded me. It would be unpardona
ble if a traveler failed to penetrate further, or to obtain a clearer
insight into the customs and the polity of the nations visited
by him, or if he were unable to delineate the country with great
er accuracy and precision than those who went before him.
Every succeeding traveler is largely indebted to the labors
of his predecessor. Thus our expedition would never have been
able to aeliieve what it did, if Oudney, Denham, and Clapperton

PREFACE. x;

had not gone before us ; nor would these travelers have suc
ceeded so far, had Lyon and Ritchie not opened the road to Fez-
zan ; nor would Lyon have been able to reach Tejerri, if Cap
tain (now Rear Admiral) Smyth had not shown the way to
Ghirza. To Smyth, seconded by Colonel Warrington, is due
the merit of having attracted the attention of the British gov
ernment to the favorable situation of Tripoli for facilitating in
tercourse with Central Africa ; and if at present the river-com
munication along the Tsadda or Benuwe seems to hold out a
prospect of an easier approach to those regions, the importance
of Tripoli must not be underrated, for it may long remain the
most available port from which a steady communication with
many parts of that continent can be kept up.
I had the good fortune to see my discoveries placed on a
stable basis before they were brought to a close, by the astro
nomical observations of Dr. Vogel,* who was sent out by her
Britannic majesty's government for the purpose of joining the
expedition ; and I have only to regret that this gentleman was
not my companion from the beginning of my journey, as exact
astronomical observations, such as he has made, are of the ut
most importance in any geographical exploration. By moving
the generally-accepted position of Kukawa more than a degree
to the westward, the whole map of the interior has been changed
very considerably. The position assigned by Dr. Vogel to Zinder
gives to the whole western route, from Ghat through the coun
try of A'sben, a well-fixed terminating point, while at the same
time it serves to check my route to Timbuktu. If, however,
this topic be left out of consideration, it will be found that the
maps made by me on the journey, under many privations, were
a close approximation to the truth. But now all that pertains
to physical features and geographical position has been laid
down, and executed with artistic skill and scientific precision,
by Dr. Petermann.
The principal merit which I claim for myself in this respect
* Some details will be considered in a Memoir to be subjoined at the end of
this work. It is to be hoped that Dr. Vogel's calculations themselves may be re
ceived in the mean time.

^ PREFACE.

is

._ that of having noted the whole configuration of the country;
and my chief object has been to represent the tribes and nations
with whom I came in contact, in their historical and ethnograph
ical relation to the rest of mankind, as well as in their physical
relation to that tract of country in which they live. If, in this
respect, I have succeeded in placing before the eyes of the pub
lic a new and animated picture, and connected those apparently
savage and degraded tribes more intimately with the history of
races placed on a higher level of civilization, I shall be amply
recompensed for the toils- and dangers I have gone through.
My companion, Dr. Overweg, was a clever and active young
geologist ; but, unfortunately, he was deficient in that general
knowledge of natural science which is required for comprehend
ing all the various phenomena occurring on a journey into un
known regions. Having never before risked his life on a dan
gerous expedition, he never for a moment doubted that it might
not be his good fortune to return home in safety, and he there
fore did not always bestow that care upon his journal which is
so desirable in such an enterprise. Nevertheless, almost all his
observations of latitude have been found correct, while his mem
oranda, if deciphered at leisure, might still yield a rich harvest.
One of the principal objects which her Britannic majesty's
government had always in view in these African expeditions
was the abolition of the slave-trade. This, too, was zealously
advocated by the late Mr. Richardson, and, I trust, has been as
zealously carried out by myself whenever it was in my power
to do so, although, as an explorer on a journey of discovery, I
was induced, after, mature reflection, to place myself under the
protection of an expeditionary army, whose object it was to sub
due another tribe, and eventually to carry away a large propor
tion of the conquered into slavery. Now it should always be
borne in mind that there is a broad distinction between the
slave-trade and domestic slavery. The foreign slave-trade may,
comparatively speaking, be easily abolished, though the difficul
ties of watching over contraband attempts have been shown suf
ficiently by many years' experience. With the abolition of the
slave-trade, all along the northern and southwestern coast of

JrxtljFA.CE. Xiii
Africa, slaves will cease to be brought down to the coast, and
in this way a great deal of the mischief and misery necessarily
resulting from this inhuman traffic will be cut off. But this,
unfortunately, forms only a small part of the evil.
There can be no doubt that the most horrible topic connected
with slavery is slave-hunting ; and this is carried on, not only
for the purpose of supplying the foreign market, but, in a far
more extensive degree, for supplying the wants of domestic
slavery. Hence it was necessary that I should become acquaint
ed with the real state of these most important features of African
society, in order to speak clearly about them ; for with what
authority could I expatiate on the horrors and the destruction
accompanying such an expedition if I were not speaking as an
eyewitness ? But having myself accompanied such a host on a
grand scale, I shall be able, in the second volume of my narra
tive, to lay before the pubhc a picture of the cheerful comfort,
as well as the domestic happiness, of a considerable portion of
the human race, which, though in a low, is not at all in a de
graded state of civilization, as well as the wanton and cruel
manner in which this happiness is destroyed, and its peaceful
abodes changed into desolation. Moreover, this very expedi
tion afforded me the best opportunity of convincing the rulers
of Bornu of the injury which such a perverse system entails
upon themselves.
But, besides this, it was of the utmost importance to visit the
country of the Musgu ; for while that region had been repre
sented by the last expedition as an almost inaccessible mount
ain chain, attached to that group which Major Denham observed
on his enterprising but unfortunate expedition with Bu-Khalum,
I convinced myself on my journey to A'damawa, from the in
formation which I gathered from the natives, that the mount
ains of Mandara are entirely insulated toward the east. I con
sidered it, therefore, a matter of great geographical importance
to visit that country, which, being situated between the rivers
Shari and Benuwe, could alone afford the proof whether there
was any connection between these two rivers.
I shall have frequent occasion to refer, in my journal, to con-

viv PREFACE.

versations which I had with the natives on religious subjects.
I may say that I have always avowed my religion, and defend
ed the pure principles of Christianity against those of Islam ;
only once was I obliged, for about a month, in order to carry
out my project of reaching Timbuktu, to assume the character
of a Moslim. Had I not resorted to this expedient, it would
have been absolutely impossible to achieve such a project, since
I was then under the protection of no chief whatever, and had
to pass through the country of the fanatic and barbarous hordes
of the Tawarek. But though, with this sole exception, I have
never denied my character of a Christian, I thought it prudent
to conform to the innocent prejudices of the people around me,
adopting a dress which is at once better adapted to the climate
and more decorous in the eyes of the natives. One great cause
of my popularity was the custom of alms-giving. By this
means I won the esteem of the natives, who took such a lively
interest in my well-being that, even when I was extremely ill,
they used to say, " 'Abd el Kerim* shall not die."
I have given a full description of my preparatory excursion
through the mountainous region round Tripoli ; for, though this
is not altogether a new country, any one who compares my map
with that of Lyon or Denham will see how little the very inter
esting physical features of this tract had been known before,
while, at a time when the whole Turkish empire is about to un
dergo a great transformation, it seems well worth while to lay
also the state of this part of its vast dominions in a more com
plete manner before the European public.
Of the first part of our expedition there has already appeared
the Narrative of the late Mr. Richardson, published from his
manuscript journals, which I was fortunately able to send home
from Kukawa. It is full of minute incidents of traveling life,
so very instructive to the general reader. But, from my point
of view, I had to look very differently at the objects which pre
sented themselves ; and Mr. Richardson, if he had lived to work
out his memoranda himself, would not have failed to give to his
* " 'Abd el Kerim," meaning " Servant of the Merciful," was the name which
I thought it prudent to adopt.

PREFACE. xv
journal a more lasting interest. Moreover, my stay in A'gades
afforded me quite a different insight into the life, the history,
and geography of those regions, and brought me into contact
with Timbuktu.
Extending over a tract of country of twenty-four degrees
from north to south, and twenty degrees from east to west, in
the broadest part of the continent of Africa, my travels neces
sarily comprise subjects of great interest and diversity.
After having traversed vast deserts of the most barren soil,
and scenes of the most frightful desolation, I met with fertile
lands irrigated by large navigable rivers and extensive central
lakes, ornamented with the finest timber, and producing vari
ous species of grain, rice, sesamum, ground-nuts, in unlimited
abundance, the sugar-cane, &c, together with cotton and indigo,
the most valuable commodities of trade. The whole of Central
Africa, from Bagirmi to the east as far as Timbuctu to the west
(as will be seen in my narrative), abounds in these products.
The natives of these regions not only weave their own cotton,
but dye their home-made shirts with their own indigo. The
river, the far-famed Niger, which gives access to these regions
by means of its eastern branch, the Benuwe, which I discover
ed, affords an uninterrupted navigable sheet of water for more
than six hundred miles into the very heart of the country. Its
western branch is obstructed by rapids at the distance of about
three hundred and fifty miles from the coast ; but even at that
point it is probably not impassable in the present state of nav
igation, while, higher up, the river opens an immense high road
for nearly one thousand miles into the very heart of Western
Africa, so rich in every kind of produce.
The same diversity of soil and produce which the regions
traversed by me exhibit, is also observed with respect to man.
Starting from Tripoli in the north, we proceed from the settle
ments of the Arab and the Berber, the poor remnants of the
vast empires of the Middle Ages, into a country dotted with
splendid ruins from the period of the Roman dominion, through
the wild roving hordes of the Tawarek, to the Negro and half-
Negro tribes, and to the very border of the South African na-

xv- PREFACE.

tions. In the regions of Central Africa there exists not one
and the same stock, as in South Africa, but the greatest diver
sity of tribes, or rather nations, prevails, with idioms entirely
distinct. The great and momentous struggle between Islamism and
Paganism is here continually going on, causing every day the
most painful and affecting results, while the miseries arising
from slavery and the slave-trade are here revealed in their most
repulsive features. We find Mohammedan learning ingrafted
on the ignorance and simplicity of the black races, and the
gaudy magnificence and strict ceremonial of large empires side
by side with the barbarous simplicity of naked and half-naked
tribes. We here trace a historical thread wliich guides us
through this labyrinth of tribes and overthrown kingdoms ; and
a lively interest is awakened by reflecting on their possible
progress and restoration, through the intercourse with more
civilized parts of the world. Finally, we find here commerce,
in every direction radiating from Kano, the great emporium of
Central Africa, and spreading the manufactures of that indus
trious region over the whole of Western Africa.
I can not conclude these prefatory remarks without express
ing my sincere thanks for the great interest shown in my pro
ceedings by so many eminent men in this country, as well as
for the distinction of the Victoria medal awarded to me by the
Royal Geographical Society. As I may flatter myself that, by
the success which attended my efforts, I have encouraged fur
ther undertakings in these as well as in other quarters of Afri
ca, so it will be my greatest satisfaction if this narrative should
give a fresh impulse to the endeavors to open the fertile regions
of Central Africa to European commerce and civilization.
Whatever may be the value of this work, the Author believes
that it has been enhanced by the views and illustrations with
which it is embellished. These have been executed with ar-
tistical skill and the strictest fidelity, from my sketches, by Mr.
Bernatz, the well-known author of the beautiful » Scenes in
^Ethiopia." I will only add a few words relative to the spelling of native

PREFACE.

XVII

names — rather a difficult subject in a conflux of languages of
very different organization and unsettled orthography. I have
constantly endeavored to express the sounds as correctly as pos
sible, but in the simplest way, assigning to the vowels always
the same intonation which they have in Italian, and keeping as
closely as possible to the principles adopted by the Asiatic So
ciety. The greatest difficulty related to the "g" sound, which
is written in various ways by the Africans, and puzzled even
the Arabic writers of the Middle Ages. .While the "k" in North
Africa approaches the g in "give," it takes the sound of it en
tirely in the Central African languages. On this ground, al
though I preferred writing " Azkar," while the name might have
been almost as well written " Azgar ;" yet, further into the in
terior, the application of the g, as in " A'gades," " Gober," and
so on, was more correct. The c of the Arabs has been ex
pressed, in conformity with the various sounds which it adopts,
by 'a, 'o, and 'u ; the a by gh, although it sounds in many-
words like an r ; „ by j ; the ~, which is frequent in the Af
rican languages, by ch.
The alphabet, therefore, which I have made use of is the fol
lowing :

Vowels.

Diphthongs.

a as in cat.

ai

as i in tide (ay at the end of words).

a " father.

oi

(oy) as in noise.

'a (not English) not unlike a in dart.

au

(aw) as ow in now.

e as in pen.

e like the first a in fatal.

Consonants.
i as in it.
b as in beat.
i " ravine.
d
" door.
o " lot.
f *
" fan.
6 " home.
g
" got.
'o (not English) not unlike o in noble.
jt
" join.
u as in put.
k
" keep.
ii " adjure, true.
1
" leave.
'u not unlike oo in doom.
m
" man.
y, at the end of words, instead of i.
n
" not.
* p, ph, f, in many African languages, are constantly interchanged, the same
as r and dh, r and 1.
t No distinction has been made between the different sounds of j.
Vol. I.— B
xvm

PREFACE.

Consonants (continued).
n as in the Spanish " campana, like ni
in companion, onion.
p* as in pain.
r " rain.
s " son.
t " tame.
v " vain.
w " win.

y as in yet.
z " zeal. Double Consonants.
gh as in ghost, and the g in grumble.
ks as x in tax, excise.
kh as ch in the Scotch word loch.
th as in tooth.
ts as in Betsy.
ng as in wrong.

A few slight discrepancies in the spelling of names will, I
trust, be excused, the printing having already commenced before
I had entirely settled the orthography I would adopt.
Henry Barth, Ph. D.
St. John's Wood, London, May 1, 1857.

CONTENTS OF
THE FIEST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.
FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI.
The first Start. — The Passage of the Syrtis. — Little Progress. — Trials of Tem
per. — Our Companions. — An old Friend. — Reach Tripoli  Page 29
CHAPTER H.
TRIPOLI.  THE PLAIN AND THE MOUNTAIN SLOPE ; THE ARAB AND THE BERBER.
An Excursion. — Arab Encampments.— Commencement of the hilly Region. —
The Plateau. — Turkish Stronghold. — Berber Settlements. — The picturesque
Fountain. — Wadi Welad 'Ali. — Khalaifa. — Beautiful Ravine. — TJm e' Zeran.
— Enshed e' Sufet. — Roman Sepulchre. — Kikla. — Wadi Kerdemin. — Rabda. —
Kasr Ghurian. — Mount Tekiit. — Kasr Teghrinna. — Hanshir. — Wadi Rumma-
na  40
CHAPTER IH.
FERTILE MOUNTAIN REGION RICH IN ANCIENT REMAINS.
AVadi Ran. — Jebel Msid. — Singular Monuments. — Structure described. — Con
jectural Character. — Other ancient Ruins. — Approach to Tarhdna. — The Gov
ernor's Encampment. — Ruins near 'Ain Shershara. — Kasr Ddga. — Kasr
Dawan. — Jebel Msid. — Mesellata. — Kasr Kerker. — The Cinyps. — Leptis.
— Khoms  67
CHAPTER TV.
DEPARTURE POR THE INTERIOR.  ARRIVAL AT MIZDA. — REMAINS OF A CHRISTIAN
CHURCH.
The Departure. — 'Ain Zara. — Mejenin. — Wadi Haera. — The Boat crosses the
Defile. — Ghurian. — Kuleba. — Roman Mile-stones. — Mizda. — The eastern
Village. — Jebel Durman. — Wadi Sdfejin. — Ruined Castle. — Christian Re
mains  90
CHAPTER V.
SCULPTURES AND ROMAN REMAINS IN THE DESERT. — GHARITA.
Roman Sepulchre in Wadi Talha. — Wadi Tagije. — Remarkable Monument. —
Description of Monument. — Wadi Zemzem. — Roman Sepulchres at Taboniye.

xx CONTENTS.
— Ghariya.— Roman Gateway.— Arab Tower.— Roman Inscription.— Ghariya
e' sherkiya. — The Hammada — Storms in the Desert.— End of the Hammada.
— ElHasi, "the WeU"  '....Page 110
CHAPTER VI.
WADf SHATI.  OLD JERMA.  ARRIVAL IN MURZUK.
Wadi Shati, or Shiyati — E'deri and its Gardens.— Wadi Shiiikh.— Sandy Region.
— Reach the Wadi. — Ugrefe. — Jerma Kadim. — The last Roman Monument.—
The Groves of the Wadi.— End of the Wadi.— Arrival at Murzuk  134
CHAPTER VH.
RESIDENCE IN MURZUK.
Delay. — Character of Murzuk. — Ground-plan of Murzuk  150
CHAPTER VLU.
THE DESERT. — TASAWA. — EXACTIONS OF THE ESCORT. — DELAY AT ELAWEN.
Setting out from Murzuk. — Tiggerurtin, the Village of the Tinylkum. — Gather
ing of the Caravan. — Tasawa. — Arrival of the Tawarek Chiefs. — Reformation
of Isl&m. — Return to Murzuk. — Move on finally. — Sharaba. — Wadi Aberjiish.
— Rate of Traveling. — Join the Caravan. — Tesemmak. — Wadi Elawen. — Ha-
tita's Intrigues  157
CHAPTER IX.
SINGULAR SCULPTURES IN THE DESERT.  THE MOUNTAIN PASS.
Hatita. — Sculptures in Telisaghe. — Subject of Sculptures, two Deities fighting
about a Bull. — Herd of Bulls. — Cattle formerly Beasts of Burden in the Des
ert. — Fine Valleys. — Breaking up of the Plateau. — The narrow, gutter-like
Pass of Ralle. — Teliya. — Serdales. — Valley Tanescf. — Mount I'dinen. — The
Traveler's Mishap. — Astray in the Desert. — The Wanderer found. — Arrival
at Ghat  172
CHAPTER X.
THE INDIGENOUS BERBER POPULATION.
Fezzan, a Berber Country. — The Berbers. — Their real Name Mazigh ; the Name
Tawarek of Arab Origin. — The Azkar. — History of the Azkar. — The Hadana-
rang. — Degraded Tribes. — The Imghad. — The Kel. — View of the Valley of
Ghat  ;  194
CHAPTER XI.
CROSSING A LARGE MOUNTAIN RIDGE, AND ENTERING ON THE OPEN GRAVELLY
DESERT.
The town of Bdrakat.— The Date-groves of Barakat and their Inhabitants.—
Alpine Lake.— The Tawati.— High Mountain-pass.— Deep Ravine of E'geri.
—Threatened Attack.— Region of Granite commences.— Desert Plain of Ma-
riaw.— Afalesselez.— Approach to tropical Climes.— Wild Oxen ("bagr el
wahsh") in the Desert.-Nghakeli, new Vegetation {Balanites JEgyptiaca) 208

CONTENTS. XXJ
CHAPTER XH.
DANGEROUS APPROACH TO ASBEN.
Picturesque Peak. — Valley of Ardkam. — Caravan of Merabetin. — Asettere. —
The Guinea-worm. — The Caravan (at Aisala). — Berber Inscription. — Ikadem-
melrang. — Peculiar Mounts. — Mararraba, the Half-way. — Bdro's Threats. —
First View of A'sben. — Aseu. — Approach of the Enemy. — Valley Fenorang.
— The Freebooters. — Timazkaren. — Maket-n-I'kelan, the Slaves' Dance. —
Continued Alarms. — The Valley of Jinninau. — Pleasant Valley of Gebi. —
The Capparis sodata  Page 228
CHAPTER XHI.
INHABITED BUT DANGEROUS FRONTIER REGION.
Taghajit. — Character of the Borderers. — New Alarms. — Order of Battle. — Mo
hammed Bdro. — A tardy Acknowledgment. — Formidable Threats. — The Com
promise. — Mountains of A'sben. — Valley of Tidik. — Sad Disappointment. —
Definitive Attack. — The Pillage. — Oucifera Thebaica. — Selufiet. — Tin-tagh-
ode, the Settlement of the Merabetin. — Short State of Supplies. — A Desert
Torrent. — Arrival of the Escort. — Valley of Fddet. — Camel Races. — Parting
of Friends. — Valley of Afis. — New Troubles. — Arrival at Tintellust. — The
EngUsh Hill  248
CHAPTER XIV.
ETHNOGRAPHICAL RELATIONS OF AIR.
The name of Air or Ahir. — Country of the Goberawa. — The Kel-owi. — Recent
Conquest. — Descent in the Female Line. — Mixed Population. — Language. —
Sections of the Kel-owi. — The Irdlangh. — Tribe of the Sheikh A'nnur.— The
Lkazkezan. — The Kel-n-Neggaru. — The E'fadaye. — League of the Kel-owi with
the Kel-geres and Itisan. — The Kel-fadaye. — The word "Meharebi." — The
Kel-ferwan. — The Itisan and Kel-geres. — Population of A'sben. — The Salt-
trade*  276
CHAPTER XV.
RESIDENCE IN TINTELLUST.
The Sheikh A'nnur's Character. — Rainy Season. — Nocturnal Attack. — Want of
proper Food. — Preparations for Advance  292
CHAPTER XVI.
JOURNEY TO AGADES.
Attempt at Bullock-riding. — Tawarek Blacksmiths. — The double Horn of Mount
Chereka. — A'sodi and its Ruins. — Mounts Eghellal, Baghzen, and A'gata. — -
Mounts Belasega and Abila. — The Valley Tiggeda. — The picturesque Valley
of A'sada. — The Valley of Taghist with the ancient Place of Prayer. — Pic-
* " The people of A'gades at that time (the last quarter of the last century) — though A'gades
then helonged to the Cashna empire — were annually permitted to load their immense caravans
with the salt of Bornou, from the salt lakes of Demhoo" (the Tehu country?), " the merchants
of A'gades giving in return for the article a trifling price in hrass and copper." — Lucas, Pro
ceedings of the African Association, vol. i., p. 159.

xxii CONTENTS.
tnresque Valley of Aiideras with the Forest of Dum-palms. — Barbarity. —
Valley Biidde. — The Natron. — The feathered Bur. — Imghad of the Valleys.. —
Fertile Valley Bdghel. — The large Baure-tree. — Arrival near A'gades. — The
Troopers. — Entrance into the Town  '.  ,  Page 299
CHAPTER XVH.
AGADES.
The retail Traders from Tawat. — The learned 'Abdallah. — Aspect of the Town.
— The Sultan's Quarter. — Interview with the Chief. — Mohammed Bdro's House
and Family. — Markets of A'gades. — Manufactures. — Native Cavalry. — View
of the Town. — The Kadhi. — Interior of A'gades. — Various Visitors. — The
"Fura," a favorite Drink. — Manners and Customs. — A Misadventure. — Lan
guage of A'gades the same as that of Timbuktu. — My friend Hamma. — The
fatal Dungeon. — Ceremony of Investiture. — The Procession. — Visitors. — Ru
mors of War. — On Rock-Inscriptions. — Visitors again. — Episode. — Parting
with Bdro. — Tailelt (Guinea-fowl) Tobes. — A'shu's Garden. — Letters from the
Sultan.— Military Expedition. — Results of the Expedition. — Interior of a House.
— The Emgedesi Lady. — Ruinous Quarter. — Wanton Manners. — The Mosque
and Tower.— Interior of the Mosque. — Hostile Disposition of the Kadhi.—
Other Mosques in A'gades. — Enlightened Views. — Preparations for Depart
ure  317
CHAPTER xvrn.
HISTORY OF AGADES.
A'gades not identical with Aiidaghost. — Meaning of the name. — The Songhay
Conqueror Haj Mohammed Askia (Leo's Ischia).— The Associated Tribes.—
Leo's Account of A'gades.— The Ighedalen.— Tegidda or Tekadda.— Gdgd and
the ancient Gold Trade.— Position of the Ruler of A'gades.— The Sultan and
his Minister.— Meaning of the word " Turawa."— The Town, its Population.
—Period of Decline.— Ground-plan and Quarters of the Town.— Decline of
Commerce. — Market Prices..™  _  __ 330
CHAPTER XIX.
DEPARTURE FROM AGADES. — STAY IN TIN-TEGGANA.
Abortive Commencement of Journey.— The VaUey of Tiggeda full of Life.—
Ttntellust deserted.— Arrival in Tin-teggana.— Stay in Tin-te'ggana.— Moham
med el Gatrdni.— Turbulent State of the Country.— Conversation on Rehgion.
—Poor Diet.— Prolonged Delay.— Preparations for Starting  376
CHAPTER XX.
FINAL DEPARTURE FOR SUDAN.
Taking leave of Tin-teggana.— Trachytic Peak of Teleshera.— Valley of Tane-
gat.— The Salt Caravan.— Wild Manners of the Tawarek.— Mount Mari.-
RicherVegetation.-WellA-lbes.-TebuMerchants.-Chemia.-MountBagh- zen.— Camelslost.-RichValleyUnan.— Stone Dwellings of Ke'1-geres.-Christ-
mas Day.— Taking leave of Hamma  399

CONTENTS. xxiii
CHAPTER XXI.
THE BORDER REGION OF THE DESERT. — THE TAGAMA.
Traveling in earnest. — Home of the Giraffe and Antihpe leucoryx. — The Magaria.
— The Cornus nabeca and the Feathery Bristle. — Princely Present. — Animals
(Orycteropus ^Ethiopians'). — The Tagama ; their peculiar Character. — The
Tarki Beauty. — New Plants. — Steep Descent. — Ponds of stagnant Water. —
Corn-fields of Damerghii. — The warlike Chief, Dan I'bra. — Ungwa Sammit.
— Negro Architecture. — Name of the Hut in various languages. — Animal and
Vegetable Kingdoms. — Horses grazing. — Arrival in Tagelel. — The Ikazkezan
Freebooter. — Niggardliness of the Chief. — Towns and Villages of Damerghii.
— The Haunts of the Freebooters. — Market of Tagelel. — The "Devil's
Dance"  Page 402
CHAPTER XXn.
SEPARATION OF THE TRAVELERS. — THE BORDER DISTRICTS OF THE INDEPENDENT
PAGAN CONFEDERATION.  TASAWA.
Dissembling of the Chief. — His steadfast Character. — Mr. Richardson's Health. —
Separation. — Different Roads to Kand. — Animated Intercourse. — Native War
fare. — The first large Tamarind-tree. — Villages and Wells. — Separation from
Mr. Overweg. — Improved Scenery. — Encampment at Gozenakko. — Lively
Camp Scene. — Native Delicacies. — Revenues of Tasawa. — Astounding Mes
sage. — Visit to Tasawa. — The Market in Tasawa. — Nachira, A'nnur's Estate. —
Character of the People and their Dwellings. — Intrigue defeated. — Counting
Shells. — A petty Sultan. — Dyeing-pits  424
CHAPTER XXHI.
GAZAWA.  RESIDENCE IN KATSENA.
An African Dandy. — My Protector Elaiji. — Camp-life. — Fortifications and Mar
ket of Gazawa. — March resumed. — Desolate Wilderness. — Site of Dankama. —
Struggle between Islamism and Paganism. — Encampment near Katsena —
Estimate of Salt Caravan. — Negro Horsemen. — Equestrian Musicians. — The
Governor of Katsena. — Detained by him. — The Governor's Wiles. — Disputes.
— Who is the "Kafer?" — Clapperton's Companion. — The Tawati Bel-Ghet
conciliated. — Extortionate Demands. — Subject about the Kafer resumed. — The
Presents. — Promenade through the Town. — The Governor's Wishes. — Taking
leave of him  445
CHAPTER XXIV.
HAUSA. — HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF KATSENA. — ENTRY INTO KANO.
The name Hausa. — Origin of the Hausa Nation. — The seven States. — Origin of
the Town of Katsena. — The Mohammedan Missionary, Ben Maghili. — Kings
of Katsena. — The first Moslim. — The oldest Quarter. — Magnitude of the Town.
 Its Decline. — Salubrious Site and favorable Situation of Katsena. — Depart
ure from Katsena. — Wild State of the Country. — Shibdawa. — Rich Scenery. —
Kusada. — The Bentang-tree. — Women with heavy Loads. — Beehives. — Giir-
z0. — Approach to Kand. — Straggling Villages. — Composition of our Troop. —
First View of Dala. — Entering Kand  470

xx;v CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXV.
RESIDENCE IN KAN6. — VIEW OF ITS INTERIOR. — ITS HISTORY AND PRESENT
STATE. — COMMERCE.
My Situation in Kand.— Debts.— Projects.— The Commissioner.— Difficulties.—
Sickness. — Interior of Kand ; Animated Picture. — The Quarters of the Con
quered and the Ruling Race.— The " Serki" and the Ghaladima.— The Au
dience.— Presents. — Plan of Kano. — Street-groups. — Industry. — View from
Mount Dala. — Acquaintances in Kand. — Meditated Departure. — Historical
Sketch of Kand. — Growth of the Town. — The Quarters of the Town. — Ground-
plan of my House. — Population. — Commerce. — Various kinds of Zenne. — Ex
port of Cloth. — Grand Character of Trade. — Produce. — The Guinea-fowl Shirt.
— Leather-work. — Kola-nut. — Slaves. — Natron, Salt, Ivory Trade. — European
Goods in Kand. — The South American Slave-traders. — Small quantity of Cal
ico. — Silk. — Woolen Cloth. — Beads. — Sugar. — Fire-arms. — Razors. — Arab
Dresses. — Copper. — The Shells and the Dollar. — Markets of Kand. — Revenues.
— Administration. — The Conquering Tribe  Page 489
\
CHAPTER XXVI. \
STARTING FOR KUKAWA.  THE FR0NTI1 ',DISTRICT.
Leaving Kand quite by myself. — My Trooper. — Get off 1. \r. — Domestic Slavery.
— Gezawa. — My runaway Servant, 'Abd Allah. — The St yif and his Attendants.
— Mules in Negroland. — Kuka Mairuwa. — Insecurity.- 'Scarcity of Water.—
Natron-trade. — Endurance and Privations of the Travelt \. — Arrival at Gerki.
— Take leave of Hausa. — Gummel. — House-building. — -Antidote. — Market at
Gummel. — Magnitude of Bdri. — Two Spanish Dollars. — Depart from Gummel.
— Benzari. — The Rebel Chief, Bokhari. — His Exploits. — The Governor of Ma-
shena. — Letter-carrier's Mistake. — Curious Talisman. — Manga Warriors. —
Wuelleri. — Scarcity of Water again. — Town of Mashena. — State of the Coun
try. — Cheerful out-of-the-way Place. — A'lamay. — Biindi and the Ghaladima.
— The Karda. — Route from Kand to A'lamay by way of Khadeja  525
CHAPTER XXVII.
BORNU PROPER.
Intercourse. — Change of Life in Negroland. — Region of the Dum-palm. — The
Kuri Ox. — The River Wani. — Enter Bdrnu Proper. — Zurrikuld. — News of the
Death of Mr. Richardson. — Sandy Downs. — Deffowa. — Industry. — The stray
Camel. — Town of Wadi. — Good Market and no Provisions. — Hospitable Treat
ment. — The Banks of the Wani. — Locusts and Hawks. — Nguriituwa ; Grave
of Mr. Richardson.— The Tawarek again.— Alaune.— The Jungles of the Ko-
madugu.— Ruins of Ghambaru. — A Forest Encampment. — Nomadic Herds
men.— Abundance of Milk.— Ford of the Komadugu.— Native Ferry-boats.—
Kher-A'lla, the Border-warfarer. — Changing Guides. — The runaway Horse —
A Domestic Quarrrel  558

CONTENTS. XXV
CHAPTER XXVni.
ARRIVAL IN KUKAW A. .
Peculiar Character of the Alluvial Plains of Bdrnu. — The attentive Woman.—
Entrance into Kiikawa. — Servants of the Mission. — Debts of the Mission. 
Interview with the Vizier. — Sheikh 'Omar.— Mr. Richardson's Property. —
Amicable Arrangements  Page 587

APPENDIX.
Page
I. Route from A'gades to Sdkoto  599
H. Route from A'gades to Maradi, according to the Information of the
Kel-geres Gojeri and his Companion Ghaser  600
IH. Itinerary from A'gades to Damerghu, according to various Informants. 600
IV. Route from A'gades to Bilma, according to the E'mgedesi E'deri  601
V. Route from A'gades to Tawat, according to 'Abd- Alia  602
VI. Route from A'gades to the Hillet e' Sheikh Sidi el Mukhtar in Azawad,
according to the Kel-ferwan Baina  606
VII. Quarters of the Town of Katsena  608
VIII. Chief Places in the Province of Katsena  609
LX. Chief Places in the Province of Kand, and Routes diverging from
Kano in various Directions, principally toward the South  609
X. Collection of Itineraries passing through the various Districts of A'da-
mawa  626
XI. Fragments of a Meteorological Register  651

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN <
THE FIEST VOLUME.

Page
General Map of Africa  to face Preface.
Aiideras  Frontispiece.
Picturesque Fountain  47
Wadi Welad 'All  49
General View of Enshed e' Sufet  53
The Monument  54
Kasr Ghurian and W. Rummana  65
Aboriginal Structures  72
Kasr Ddga  80
Another pair of Pillars, with Slab and Sculpture of a Dog  82
Curious Sculpture  86
General View of Mizda  ".  101
Mizda  103
Kasr Khafaije 'Aamer  106
Ruins of Christian Church  108
Two Capitals  108, 109
Ground-plan  HO
Roman Sepulchre in Wadi Talha  Ill
Roman Sepulchre in Wadi Tagije  114
Roman Sepulchre at Taboniye  119
Gateway of Roman Station at Ghariya  121
Ground-plan of Station  123
ElHasi  131
E'deri  1  137
Encampment at Ugrefe  143
Roman Sepulchre near Jerma (Garama)  145
Miirzuk  153
Ground-plan of Miirzu'-,  155
Tigger-urti'n  \.  159
Encampment at Tesen
Hatita on his Camel..
First Sculpture of Tel

ak  169
 173
;he (two deities)  174
Telisaghe  ."  175
Herd of Bulls  179
Bull jumping into a Ring  179
Mount I'dinen  jg7
Ground-plan of Quarters at Ghat  194
Ghat  205
The Mountain Pass  215

ILLUSTRATIONS. xxvii Page
Pond in Valley E'geri  216
E'geri  217
Mount Tiska  ....'.  222
Picturesque Peak  228
Mountain Ridge near Ardkam  229
Indented Ridge  230
Stratified Mount  234
Mountain Group  245
View of Mountain Chains  .%  246
Mountains of Tidik  257
Mount Kadammellet  258
Mountains of Seliifiet  264
Valley of Fddet  270
Tintellust  274
Mount Chereka and Eghellal  302
Mount Chereka, from another side  302
Mountain Chain  304
Deep Chasm of Mount Eghellal  304
Mount A'gata  305
Mount Belasega  306
Valley Tiggeda  ."  307
Distinguished Mount  312
Audience Hall of Chief of A'gades  320
Mohammed Bdro's House  322
A Leather Box  323
A'gades  *  326
Two Native Spoons  331
Ground-plan of a House  350
Another Ground-plan  352
View of the High Watch-tower  355
Ground-plan of A'gades  372
Encampment in Tin-teggana  381
Mount Mari, in profile  393
Mount Mari, in front  394
Mount Baghzen, from the east side  397
Corn-stack  427
Negro Stirrup  454
Ground-plan of the town of Katsena  477
Ground-plan of the Town of Kano  496
Dagger and Scabbard  .'  498
Kand from Mount Dala  :  '.  500
Ground-plan of my House in Kano  509
Guinea-fowl Shirt  513
Sandals  513
Leather Pocket  514
Hen-house  565
Dendal in Kiikawa  590

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

AFRICA.

CHAPTER I.
FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI.

Mr. Richardson was waiting in Paris for dispatches when
Mr. Overweg and I reached Tunis, by way of Philippeville and
Bona, on the 15th of December, 1849 ; and having, through the
kind interference of Mr. Ferrier, the British vice-consul, been
allowed to enter the town after six days' quarantine, we began
immediately to provide ourselves with articles of dress, while,
in the mean time, we took most interesting daily rides to the
site of ancient Carthage.
Having procured many useful articles for our journey, and
having found a servant, the son of a freed slave from Gober, we
left Tunis on the 30th of December,* and passed the first night
in Hammam el Enf. Early next morning we followed the
charming route by Krumbalia, which presents a no less vivid
specimen of the beauty and natural fertility of the Tunisian
country than of the desolate state to which it is at present re
duced. We then passed the fine gardens of Turki, a narrow
spot of cultivation in a wide, desolate plain of the finest soil ;
and, leaving El Khwin to our right, we reached El Arb'ain.
Both these places enjoy a peculiar celebrity with the natives.
* I can not leave Tunis without mentioning the great interest taken in our
undertaking, and the kindness shown to us by M. le Baron Theis, the French
consul.

30 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
El Khiwn is said to have been once a populous place, but nearly
all its inhabitants were destroyed by a spring of bituminous
water, which, according to tradition, afterward disappeared. El
Arb'ain, the locality of the "forty" martyrs, is a holy place,
and 'Ali, our muleteer, in his pious zeal, took up a handful of
the sacred earth and sprinkled it over us. It is a most pictur
esque spot. Keeping then along the wild plain covered with a
thick underwood of myrtle, we beheld in the distance the highly
picturesque and beautiful Mount Zaghwan, the Holy Mount
ain of the ancient inhabitants, which rose in a majestic form,
and we at length reached Bir el buwita, " the well of the httle
closet," at one o'clock in the afternoon. The "little closet,"
however, had given place to a most decent-looking whitewashed
khan, where we took up our quarters in a clean room. But our
buoyant spirits did not allow us long repose, and a quarter be
fore eleven at night we were again on our mules.
I shall never forget this, the last night of the year 1849,
which opened to us a new era with many ordeals, and by our
endurance of which we were to render ourselves worthy of suc
cess. There were, besides ourselves, our servants, and our two
muleteers, four horsemen of the Bey, and three natives from
Jirbi .* When midnight came, my fellow-traveler and I saluted
the new year with enthusiasm, and with a cordial shake of the
hand wished each other joy. Our Mohammedan companions
were greatly pleased when they were informed of the reason of
our congratulating each other, and wished us all possible suc
cess for the new year. We had also reason to be pleased with
them, for by their not inharmonious songs they relieved the fa
tigue of a long, sleepless, and excessively cold night.
Having made a short halt under the olive-trees at the side of
the dilapidated town of Herkla, and taken a morsel of bread,
we moved on with our poor animals without interruption till
half an hour after noon, when we reached the funduk (or cara
vanserai) Sidi Bu J'afer,*near Susa, where we took up our quar-
* The town presented quite the same desolate character which I have de
scribed in my former journey, with the single exception that a new gate had
since been built. Several statues had been brought from Medinet Ziyan.

THE FIRST START. 31
ters, in order to be able to start again at night, the gates of the
town being kept shut till morning.
Starting before three o'clock in the morning, we were exactly
twelve hours in reaching El Jem, with the famous Castle of
the Prophetess, still one of the most splendid monuments of
Roman greatness, overhanging the most shabby hovels of Mo
hammedan indifference. On the way we had a fine view, toward
the west, of the picturesque Jebel Trutsa, along the foot of
which I had passed on my former wanderings, and of the wide,
outstretching Jebel Useleet.
Another ride of twelve hours brought us, on the 3d of Janu
ary, 1850, to Sfakes, where we were obliged to take up our
quarters in the town, as our land journey was here at an end,
and we were to procure a vessel to carry us either direct to
Tripoli, or to some other point on the opposite side of the Less
er Syrtis. The journey by land is not only expensive, partic
ularly for people who are encumbered with a good deal of lug
gage, as we then were, and very long and tedious, but is also
very unsafe, as I found from experience on my former journey.
The island of Jirbi, which forms the natural station of the mar
itime intercourse between the regency of Tunis and that of
Tripoli, had been put under the strictest rules of quarantine,
rather from political considerations than from those of health,
all intercourse with the main land having been cut off. It was,
therefore, with great difficulty that we succeeded in hiring a
" gareb" to carry us to Zwara, in which we embarked in the
forenoon of Saturday, the 5th of January.
During our two days' stay in Sfakes, we made the acquaint
ance of a Jew calling himself Baranes, but who is, in truth, the
Jew servant who accompanied Denham and Clapperton, and is
several times mentioned in the narrative of those enterprising
travelers as self-conceited and stubborn; yet he seems to be
rather a clever fellow, and in some way or other contrives to be
on the best terms with the governor. He communicated to us
many anecdotes of the former expedition, and, among other
things, a very mysterious history of a Danish traveler in dis
guise, whom they met in Borno, coming all the way from Dar-

32 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Fur through Wadai. There is not the least mention of such a
meeting in the journal of the expedition, nor has such an
achievement of a European traveler ever been heard of; and I
can scarcely believe the truth of this story, though the Jew was
quite positive about it.
The vessel in which we embarked was as miserable as it could
be, there being only a small low cabin as high as a dog-kennel,
and measuring, in its greatest width, from six to seven feet,
where I and my companion were to pass the night. We thought
that a run of forty-eight hours, at the utmost, would carry us
across the gulf; but the winds in the Lesser Syrtis are extreme
ly uncertain, and sometimes so violent that a little vessel is
obliged to run along the coast.
At first we went on tolerably well ; but the wind soon he-
came unfavorable, and in the evening we were obliged to cast
anchor opposite Nekta, and, to our despair, were kept there till
the afternoon of Tuesday, when at length we were enabled to go
forward in our frail little shell, and reached Meheres — not Sidi
Meheres, as it is generally called in the maps — in the darkness
of night. Having made up our minds rather to risk any thing
than to be longer immured in such a desperate dungeon as our
gareb, we went on shore early on Wednesday morning with all
our things, but were not able to conclude a bargain with some
Bedowin of the tribe of the Leffet, who were watering their cam
els at the well.
The majestic ruins of a large castle, fortified at each corner
with a round tower, give the place a picturesque appearance from
the sea-side. This castle is well known to be a structure of the
time of Ibrahim the Aghlabite. In the midst of the ruins is a
small mosque. But notwithstanding the ruinous state of the
place, and the desolate condition of its plantations, there is still a
little industry going on, consoling to the beholder in the midst of
the devastation to which the fine province of Byzacium, once the
garden of Carthage, is at present reduced. Several people were
busily employed in the little market-place making mats ; and in
the houses looms, weaving baracans, were seen in activity. But
all around, the country presented a frightful scene of desolation,

LITTLE PROGRESS. 33
there being no object to divert the eye but the apparently sep
arate cones of Mount Wuedran, far in the distance to the west,
said to be very rich in sheep. The officer who is stationed
here, and who showed us much kindness, furnishing us with
some excellent red radishes of extraordinary size, the only lux
ury which the village affords, told us that not less than five
hundred soldiers are quartered upon this part of the coast. On
my former journey I had ample opportunity to observe how the
Tunisian soldiery eat up the little which has been left to the
peaceable inhabitants of this most beautiful but most unfortu
nate country.
Having spent two days and two nights in this miserable place
without being able to obtain camels, we resolved to try the sea
once more, in the morning of the 11th, when the wind became
northerly ; but before the low-water allowed us to go on board,
the wind again changed, so that, when we at length got under
weigh in the afternoon, we could only move on with short tacks.
But our captain, protected as he was by the Promontory of Me
heres, dared to enter the open gulf. Quantities of large fish in
a dying state, as is often the case in this shallow water when
the wind has been high, were drifting round our boat.
The sun was setting when we at length doubled the promon
tory of Kasr Unga, which we had already clearly distinguished
on the 8th. However, we had now overcome the worst ; and
when, on the following morning, I emerged from our suffocating
berth, I saw, to my great delight, that we were in the midst of
the gulf, having left the coast far behind us. I now heard from
our rais that, instead of coasting as far as Tarf el ma ("the
border of the water"), a famous locality in the innermost comer
of the Lesser Syrtis, which seems to preserve the memory of the
former connection between the gulf and the great Sebkha or
Shot el Kebir (the " palus Tritonis"), he had been so bold as to
keep his little bark straight upon the channel of Jirbi.
Our voyage now became interesting ; for while we were ad
vancing at a fair rate, we had a charming view of the mountain
range, which in clear contours extended along in the distance
behind the date-groves on the coast, seen only in faint outlines.
Vol. I.— C

34 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
The western part of the chain is very low, and forms almost a
group apart, but after having been intersected by a gap or
" gate," the chain rises to greater elevation, being divided, as it
would seem from hence, into three separate ranges inclosing fine
valleys. We had hoped to cross the difficult channel to-day ; but the
wind failing, we were obliged to anchor and await the daylight,
for it is not possible to traverse the straits in the night, on ac
count of their extreme shallowness. Even in the light of the
following day, when we. at length succeeded, our little bark,
which drew only two or three feet, struck twice, and we had
some trouble to get afloat again. On the conspicuous and ele
vated promontory the " Jurf," or "Tarf el jurf," stood in ancient
times a temple of Venus, the hospitable goddess of the naviga
tor. Here on my former journey I crossed with my horses over
from the main to the island of Jirbi, while from the water I had
now a better opportunity of observing the picturesque character
of the rugged promontory. After traversing the shallow basin
or widening, we crossed the second narrowing, where the castles
which defended the bridge or "kantara," the "pons Zitha" of
the Romans, now lie in ruins on the main as well as on the isl
and, and greatly obstruct the passage, the difficulty of which has
obtained celebrity from contests between Islam and Christianity
in comparatively modern times.
Having passed safely through this difficult channel, we kept
steadily on through the open sea ; and doubling Ras M'amura,
near to which our captain had a little date-grove and was cheer
fully saluted by his family and friends, we at length entered the
harbor of Zarzis late in the afternoon of Sunday, and with some
trouble got all our luggage carried into the village, which is sit
uated at some distance ; for, although we had the worst part
of the land journey now before us, the border district of the two
regencies, with the unsafe state of which I was well acquainted
from my former journey, and although we were insufficiently
armed, we were disposed to endure any thing rather than the
imprisonment to which we were doomed in such a vessel as our
Mohammed's gareb. I think, however, that this nine days' sail

OUR COMPANIONS. 35
between Sfakes and Zarzis, a distance of less than a hundred
and twenty miles, was, on the whole, a very fair trial in the be
ginning of an undertaking the success of which was mainly de
pendent upon patience and resolute endurance. We were rather
fortunate in not only soon obtaining tolerable quarters, but also
in arranging without delay our departure for the following day,
by hiring two horses and three camels.
Zarzis consists of five separate villages — Kasr Bu Ali, Kasr
Mwanza, Kasr Welad Mohammed, Kasr Welad S'aid, and Kasr
Zawiya ; the Bedowin in the neighborhood belong to the tribe
of the Akara. The plantation also is formed into separate date-
groves. The houses are in tolerable repair and neatly white
washed ; but the character of order and well-being is neutralized
by a good many houses in decay. Near the place there are also
soma Roman ruins, especially a cistern of very great length ;
and at some distance is the site of Medinet Ziyan, of which I
have given a description in the narrative of my former jour
ney. Besides the eight men attached to our five animals, we were
joined here by four pilgrims and three Tripolitan traders ; we
thus made up a numerous body, armed with eight muskets, three
blunderbusses, and fourteen pistols, besides several straight
swords, and could venture upon the rather unsafe road to the
south of the Lake of Biban, though it would have been far more
agreeable to have a few trustworthy people to rely on instead of
these turbulent companions.
Entering soon, behind the plantation of Zarzis, a long narrow
sebkha, we were struck by the sterile and desolate character of
the country, which was only interrupted by a few small depressed
localities, where a little corn was cultivated. Keeping along this
tract of country, we reached the northwestern corner of the Lake
of Biban, or Baheret el Biban, after a little more than eight
miles. This corner has, even at the present day, the common
name of Khashm el kelb (the Dog's Nose), while the former
classical name of the whole lake, Sebakh el kelab, was only
known to Tayyef, the more learned of my guides, who, without
being questioned by me, observed that in former times towns

36 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
and rich corn-fields had been where the lake now is, but had
been swallowed up by a sinking of the ground.
The real basin has certainly nothing in common with a sebk-
ha, which means a shallow hollow, incrusted with salt, which
at times is dry and at others forms a pool ; for it is a deep gulf
or fiord of the sea, with which it is connected only by a narrow
channel called Wad mt'a el Biban. The nature of a sebkha be
longs at present only to its shores, chiefly to the locality called
Makhada, which, indenting the country to a great distance, is
sometimes very difficult to pass, and must be turned by a wide
circuitous path, which is greatly feared on account of the neigh
borhood of the Uderna, a tribe famous for its highway robber
ies. Having traversed the Makhada (which at present was dry)
without any difficulty, we entered upon good arable soil, and en
camped, after sunset, at about half a mile distance from a Bed-
owin encampment.
January 15th. Starting from here the following day, we soon
became aware that the country was not so thinly inhabited as
we had thought ; for numerous herds covered the rich pasture-
grounds, while droves of gazelles, now and then, attested that
the industry of man did not encroach here upon the freedom of
the various orders of creation. Leaving the path near the ruins
of a small building situated upon a hill, I went with Tayyef and
the Khalifa to visit the ruins of a Roman station on the border
of the Bahera, which, under the name of El Medaina, has a great
fame among the neighboring tribes, but which, with a single ex
ception, are of small extent and bad workmanship. This ex
ception is the quay, which is not only of interest in itself, formed
as it is of regularly-hewn stones, in good repair, but of import
ance as an evident proof that the lake was much deeper in an
cient times than it is now.
Traversing from this spot the sebkha, which our companions
had gone round, we soon overtook them, and kept over fine pas
ture-grounds called El Fehen, and further on, Sullub, passing, a
little after noon, a group of ruins near the shore, called Kitfi el
hamar. At two o'clock in the afternoon we had directly on our
right a slight slope, which, according to the unanimous state-

AN OLD FRIEND. 37
ment of our guides and companions, forms the magtt'a, _Jju ,
or frontier between the two regencies ;* and keeping along it,
we encamped a-n hour afterward between the slope and the
shore, which a little further on forms the deep gulf called Mirsa
Bureka. January 16th. Starting at an early hour, we reached, after a
march of ten miles, the ruins of a castle on the sea-shore, called
Burj el Melha, to which those of a small village, likewise built
of hewn stone, are joined, while a long and imposing mole call
ed El Mina juts out into the gulf. Four and a half miles fur
ther on we reached the conspicuous hill on the top of which is
the chapel of the saint Sidi S'aid ben Salah, sometimes called
Sidi Ghazi, and venerated by such of the natives as are not at
tached to the Puritan sect of El Madani, of which I shall speak
hereafter. All our companions went there to say a short
prayer. Here we left the shore, and, having watered our animals near
a well and passed the chapel of Sidi S'aid, close to which there
are some ruins, we passed with expedition over fine meadows
till we approached the plantation of Zowara, when, leaving Mr.
Overweg and my people behind, I rode on with the Khalifa, in
order to procure quarters from my former friend S'aid bu Sem-
min, who, as I had heard to my great satisfaction, had been re
stored to the government of that place. He had just on that
very day returned from a visit of some length in the capital,
and was delighted to see me again ; but he was rather astonish
ed when he heard that I was about to undertake a far more dif
ficult and dangerous journey than my former one along the
coast, in which he well knew that I had had a very narrow es
cape. However, he confided in my enterprising spirit and in
the mercy of the Almighty, and thought, if any body was likely
to do it, I was the man.j
* This point is not without importance, as a great deal of dispute has taken
place about the frontier. Having on my former journey kept close along the
sea-shore, I have laid it down erroneously in the map accompanying the narra
tive of that journey.
t I will here correct the mistake which I made in my former narrative, when

38 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
January 11th. We had now behind us the most dreary part
of our route, haying entered a district which in ancient times
numbered large and wealthy cities, among which Sabratha
stands foremost, and which even in the present miserable state
of the country is dotted with pleasant little date-groves, inter
rupted by fine pasture-grounds. In the westernmost part of
this tract, however, with the exception of the plantation of Zo
wara, all the date-groves, as those of Rikdaliye, Jemil, El Me-
shiah, and Jenan ben Sil, lie at a considerable distance from
the coast, while the country near the sea is full of sebkhas, and
very monotonous, till the traveler reaches a slight ridge of
sand-hills about sixteen miles east from Zowara, which is the
border between the dreary province of that government and a
more favored tract belonging to the government of Bu-'Ajila,
and which lies a little distance inland. Most charming was
the little plantation of Kasr 'alaiga, which exhibited traces of
industry and improvement. Unfortunately, our horses were
too weak and too much fatigued to allow us to visit the sites
either of Sabratha or Pontes. The ruins of Sabratha are prop
erly called Kasr 'alaiga, but the name has been applied to the
whole neighborhood ; to the ancient Pontes seem to belong the
ruins* of Zowara e' sherkiyeh, which are considerable. Between
them lies the pretty grove of Om el halluf.
About four o'clock in the afternoon we traversed the charm
ing little valley called Wadi bu-harida, where we watered our
horses ; and then following the camels, and passing Aserman
with its little plantation, which is bordered by a long and deep
sebkha, we took up our quarters for the night in an Arab en
campment, which was situated in the midst of the date-grove
of 'Ukbah, and presented a most picturesque appearance, the
large fires throwing a magic light upon the date-trees. But
there are no roses without thorns : we were unfortunately per
suaded to make ourselves comfortable in an Arab tent, as we
I said that Zowara is not mentioned by Arabic authors. It is certainly not ad
verted to by the more celebrated and older writers, but it is mentioned by trav
elers of the fourteenth century, especially by the Sheikh e' Tijani.

REACH TRIPOLI. 39
had no tent of our own ; and the enormous swarms of fleas not
only disturbed our night's rest, but followed us to Tripoli.
AVe had a long stretch the following day to reach the capital,
which we were most anxious to accomplish, as we expected Mr.
Richardson would have arrived before us in consequence of our
own tedious journey ; and having sent the Khalifa in advance
to keep the gate open for us, we succeeded in reaching the town
after an uninterrupted march of thirteen hours and a half, and
were most kindly received by Mr. Crowe, her majesty's consul
general, and the vice-consul, Mr. Reade, with whom I was al
ready acquainted. We were surprised to find that Mr. Rich
ardson had not even yet been heard of, as we expected he would
come direct by way of Malta. But he did not arrive till twelve
days after. Witli the assistance of Mr. Reade, we had already
finished a great deal of our preparations, and would have gladly
gone on at once ; but neither the boat, nor the instruments, nor
the arms or tents had as yet arrived, and a great deal of pa
tience was required. However, being lodged in the neat house
of the former Austrian consul, close to the harbor, and which
commands a charming prospect, our time passed rapidly by.
On the 25th of January, Mr. Reade presented Mr. Overweg
and me to Yezid Basha, the present governor, who received uS
with great kindness and good feeling. On the 29th we had a
pleasant meeting with Mr. Frederick Warrington on his return
from Ghadames, whither he had accompanied Mr. Charles Dick
son, who, on the first of January, had made his entry into that
place as the first European agent and resident. Mr. F. War
rington is perhaps the most amiable possible specimen of an
Arabianized European. To this gentleman, whose zeal in the
objects of the expedition was beyond all praise, I must be al
lowed to pay my tribute as a friend. On setting out in 1850,
he accompanied me as far as the Ghurian ; and on my joyful re
turn in 1855 he received me in Murzuk. By the charm of
friendship he certainly contributed his share to my success.

40

TRAVELS IS AFRICA.

CHAPTER II.
TRIPOLI. — THE PLAIN AND THE MOUNTAIN SLOPE; THE ARAB
AND THE BERBER.
In the Introduction I have given a rapid sketch of our jour
ney from Tunis, and pointed out the causes of our delay in
Tripoli. As soon as it became apparent that the preparations
for our final departure for the interior would require at least a
month, Mr. Overweg and I resolved to employ the interval in
making a preliminary excursion through the mountainous re
gion that encompasses Tripoli in a radius of from sixty to eighty
miles. With this view, we hired two camels, with a driver each, and
four donkeys, with a couple of men, for ourselves and our two
servants, Mohammed Belal, the son of a liberated Hausa slave,
and Ibrahim, a liberated Bagirmi slave, whom we had been for
tunate enough to engage here ; and, through the consul's influ
ence, we procured a shoush, or officer, to accompany us the whole
way. Neither the instruments provided by her majesty's govern
ment, nor the tents and arms, had as yet arrived. But Mr.
Overweg had a good sextant, and I a good chronometer, and
we were both of us provided with tolerably good compasses,
thermometers, and an aneroid barometer. Mr. Frederick War
rington, too, was good enough to lend us a tent.
We had determined to start in the afternoon of the 4th of
February, 1850, so as to pass the first night in Ghargash ; hut,
meeting with delays, we did not leave the town till after sun
set. We preferred encamping, therefore, in the Meshiah, a ht
tle beyond the mosque, under the palm-trees, little knowing at
the time what an opportunity we had lost of spending a very
cheerful evening.
February 5th. Soon after starting, we emerged from the

AN EXCURSION. 41
palm-groves which constitute the charm of Tripoli, and contin
ued our march over the rocky ground. Being a little in ad
vance with the shoush, I halted to wait for the rest, when a very
peculiar cry, that issued from the old Roman building on the
road side, called "Kasr el Jahaliyeh," perplexed us for a mo
ment. But we soon learned, to our great surprise, not unmixed
with regret, that it was our kind friend Frederick Warrington,
who had been waiting for us here the whole night. From the
top of the ruin, which stands on an isolated rock left purposely
in the midst of a quarry, there is a widely-extensive view. It
apppears that, before the Arabs built the castle, this site was
occupied by Roman sepulchres. A little further on we passed
the stone of Sidi 'Arifa. This stone had fallen upon the head
of a workman who was digging a well. The workman, so
runs the legend, escaped unhurt ; and at Sidi 'Arifa's word the
stone once more sprung to the surface. Further on, near the
sea-shore, we passed the chapel of Sidi Salah, who is said to
have drawn by magic to his feet, from the bottom of the sea, a
quantity of fish ready dressed.
From this point our kind friend, Mr. Frederick AVarrington,
returned with his followers to the town, and we were left to our
selves. We then turned off from the road, and entered the fine
date-plantation of Zenztir, celebrated in the fourteenth century
as one of the finest districts of Barbary, by the Sheikh e' Tija-
ni, passing by a great magazine of corn, and a mouldering clay-
built castle, in which were quartered a body of horsemen of the
Urshefana. Fine olive-trees pleasingly alternated with the
palm-grove, while the borders of the broad sandy paths were
neatly fenced with the Cactus qpuntia. Having passed our
former place of encampment in Sayada, we were agreeably sur
prised to see at the western end of the plantation a few new gar
dens in course of formation; for there is a tax, levied not on
the produce of the tree, but on the tree itself, which naturally
stands in the way of new plantations.
Having halted for a short time at noon near the little oasis
of Sidi Ghar, where the ground was beautifully adorned with a
profusion of lilies ; and having passed Jedaim, we encamped

42 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
toward evening in the wide court-yard of the Kasr Gamuda,
where we were kindly received by the Kaimakam Mustapha
Bey, whom I was providentially destined to meet twice again,
viz., on my outset from and on my final return to Fezzan.
The whole plantation of Zawiya, of which Gamuda forms a part,
is said to contain a hundred and thirty thousand palm-trees.
Ibrahim gave me an interesting account to-day of Negroland.
Though a native of Bagirmi, he had rambled much about Man-
dara, and spoke enthusiastically of the large and strong mount
ain town Karawa, his report of which I afterward found quite
true ; of the town of Mendif, situated at the foot of the great
mountain of the same name ; and of Mora, which he represent
ed as very unsafe on account of bands of robbers — a report
which has been entirely confirmed by Mr. Vogel. Our chief in
terest at that time was concentrated upon Mandara, which was
then supposed to be the beginning of the mountainous zone of
Central Africa.
Wednesday, February 6th. While the camels were pursuing
the direct track, we ourselves, leaving our former road, which
was parallel to the sea-coast, and turning gradually toward the
south, made a circuit through the plantation, in order to procure
a supply of dates and corn, as we were about to enter on the
zone of nomadic existence. The morning was very fine, and
the ride pleasant. But we had hardly left the plantation, when
we exchanged the firm turf for deep sand-hills, which were
broken further on by a more favored soil, where melons were
cultivated in great plenty ; and again, about four miles beyond
the plantation, the country once more assumed a genial aspect.
I heard that many of the inhabitants of Zawiya habitually ex
change every summer their more solid town residences for light
er dwellings here in the open air. A little before noon we ob
tained a fine view over the diversified outlines of the mountains
before us.
In the plain there are many favored spots bearing corn, par
ticularly the country at the foot of Mount M'amura, which forms
a very conspicuous object from every side. As we advanced
further, the country became well inhabited, and every where, at

ARAB ENCAMPMENTS. 43
some distance from the path, were seen encampments of the
tribe of the Belasa, who occupy all the grounds between the
Urshefana and the Bu-'Ajila, while the Urjimma, a tribe quite
distinct from the Urghamma, have their settlements S. W., be
tween the Nuwayil and the Bu-'Ajila. All these Arabs here
about provide themselves with water from the well Nur e' din,
which we left at some distance on our left.
The encampment near which we pitched our tent in the even
ing belonged to the chief of the Belasa, and consisted of seven
tents, close to the slope of a small hilly chain. We had scarce
ly pitched our tent when rain set in, accompanied by a chilly
current of air, which made the encampment rather uncomfort
able. The chief, Mohammed Chelebi, brought us, in the even
ing, some bazin, the common dish of the Arab of Tripoli. We
wanted to regale him with coffee, but, being afraid of touching
the hot drink, and perhaps suspicious of poison, he ran away.
Thursday, February 1th. Continuing our march southward
through the fine and slightly undulating district of El Habl,
where water is found in several wells, at the depth of from fif
teen to sixteen fathoms, we gradually approached the mountain
chain. The strong wind, which filled the whole air with sand,
prevented us from obtaining a very interesting view from a con
siderable eminence called El Ghunna, the terminating and cul
minating point of a small chain of hills which we ascended.
For the same reason, when I and Ibrahim, after lingering some
time on this interesting spot, started after our camels, we lost
our way entirely, the tracks of our little caravan being totally
effaced, and no path traceable over the undulating sandy ground.
At length we reached firmer grassy soil, and, falling in with the
path, overtook our people at the "Bir el Ghanem."
Hence we went straight toward the slope of the mountains,
and, after, a little more than an hour's march, reached the first
advanced hill of the chain, and began to enter on it by going up
one of the wadis which open from its flanks. It takes its name
from the ethel {Tamarix orientalis), which here and there breaks
the monotony of the scene, and gradually widens to a consider
able plain bounded by majestic ridges. From this plain we de-

44 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
scended into the deep and rugged ravine of the large Wadi
Sheikh, the abrupt cliffs of which presented to view beautiful
layers of red and white sandstone, with a lower horizontal layer
of limestone, and we looked out for a well-sheltered place, as the
cold wind was very disagreeable. The wadi has its name from
its vicinity to the chapel, or zawiya, of the Merabet Bu-Mati,
to which is attached a large school.
Friday, February 8th. On setting out from this hollow we
ascended the other side, and soon obtained an interesting view
of the varied outlines of the mountains before us, with several
half-deserted castles of the Arab Middle Ages on the summits
of the hills. The castle of the Welad Merabetin, used by the
neighboring tribes chiefly as a granary, has been twice destroy
ed by the Turks ; but on the occasion of nuptial festivities, the
Arabs, in conformity with ancient usage, still fire their muskets
from above the castle. The inhabitants of these mountains,
who have a strong feeling of liberty, cling to their ancient cus
toms with great fondness.
We descended again into Wadi Sheikh, which, winding
round, crossed our path once more. The regular layers of lime
stone, which present a good many fossils, with here and there
a layer of marl, form here, during heavy rains, a pretty little
cascade at the foot of the cliffs. We lost much time by getting
entangled in a branch of the wadi, which had no outlet, but ex
hibited the wild scenery of a glen, worn by the torrents which
occasionally rush down the abrupt rocky cliffs. Having regain
ed the direct road, we had to cross a third time the Wadi
Sheikh at the point where it is joined by the Wadi Ginna, or
Gilla, which also we crossed a little further on. In the fertile
zone along the coast, the monotony of the palm-groves becomes
almost fatiguing ; but here we were much gratified at the sight
of the first group of date-trees, which was succeeded -by others,
and even by a small orchard of fig-trees. Here, as we began to
ascend the elevated and abrupt eastern cliffs of the valley, which
at first offer only a few patches of cultivated plateau, succeeded
further on by olive-trees, a fine view opened before us, extend
ing to the S.E. as far as the famous Roman monument called

TURKISH STRONGHOLD. 45
Enshed e' Sufet, which is very conspicuous. Having waited
here for our camels, we reached the first village, whose name,
"Ta-smeraye," bears, like that of many others, indubitable
proof that the inhabitants of these mountainous districts belong
originally to the Berber race, though at present only a few of
them speak their native tongue. These people had formerly a
pleasant and comfortable abode in this quarter, but having fre
quently revolted against the Turks, they have been greatly re
duced, and their villages at present look like so many heaps of
ruins. *
Having passed some other hamlets in a similar state of decay,
and still going through a pleasant but rather arid country, we
reached the oppressor's stronghold, the " Kasr il Jebel," as it is
generally called, although this part of the mountains bears the
special name of Yefren. It lies on the very edge of the steep
rocky cliffs, and affords an extensive view over the plain. But,
though standing in a commanding position, it is itself com
manded by a small eminence a few hundred yards eastward,
where there was once a large quadrangular structure, now in
ruins. The castle, which at the time of our visit was the chief in
strument in the hands of the Turks for overawing the mount
aineers, contained a garrison of four hundred soldiers. It has
only one bastion with three guns, at the southern corner, and
was found by Mr. Overweg to be 2150 feet above the level of
the sea. The high cliffs inclosing the valley are most beauti
fully and regularly stratified in layers of gypsum and limestone;
and a man may walk almost round the whole circumference of
the ravine on the same layer of the latter stone, which has been
left bare — the gypsum, of frailer texture, having been carried
away by the torrents of rain which rush violently down the
steep descent. From the little eminence above mentioned there
is a commanding view over the valleys and the high plain to
ward the south.
After our tent had been pitched we received a visit from Haj
Rashid, the Kaimakam or governor, who is reckoned the second
person in the Bashalik, and has the whole district from Zwara

46

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

as far as Ghadames toward the S.W., and the Tarhona toward
the S.E., under his military command. His salary is 4600
mahhbubs annually, or about £720. He had previously been
Basha of Adana, in Cilicia ; and we indulged, to our mutual
gratification, in reminiscences of Asia Minor.
Saturday, February 9th. Early in the morning I walked to
a higher eminence at some distance eastward from the castle,
which had attracted my attention the day before. This con
spicuous hill also was formerly crowned with a tower or small
castle ; but nothing but a solitary rustic dwelling now enlivens
the solitude. The view was very extensive, but the strong wind
did not allow of exact compass observations. While my com
panion remained near the castle, engaged in his geological re- .
searches, I agreed with our shoush and a Zintani lad whom I
accidentally met here, and who, on our journey to Fezzan, proved
very useful, to undertake a longer excursion toward the west, in
order to see something more of this interesting and diversified
slope of the plateau.
I was anxious to visit a place called Ta-gherbvist, situated on
the north side of the castle, along the slope of a ravine which
runs westward into the valley ; accordingly, on leaving the site
of our encampment, we deviated at first a little northward.
Ta-gherbust is said to have been a rich and important place in
former times. Some of its inhabitants possessed as many as ten
slaves ; but at present it is a heap of ruins, with scarcely twenty-
five inhabited houses. From hence, turning southward, we de
scended gradually along the steep slope, while above our heads
the cliffs rose in picturesque majesty, beautifully adorned hy
scattered date-trees, which, at every level spot, sprung forth from
the rocky ground, and gave to the whole scene a very charming
character. A fountain which gushed out from a cavern on a
little terrace at the foot of the precipice, and fed a handsome
group of date-trees, was one of the most beautiful objects that
can be imagined.
The Turks, two years ago, made a small path leading direct
ly down from the castle to this fountain, which supplies them
with water. After sketching this beautiful spot while the ani-

BERBER SETTLEMENTS.

47

mais were watering, we followed a more gradual descent into
the valley of El Ghasas, which herewith a rough level, widens to
a plain, while its upper or southern part, called Wadi Rumiye,
forms a very narrow and picturesque ravine. We then contin
ued our march in a westerly direction, having on our right the
plain extending, with slight undulations, toward the sea, and on
our left the majestic offshoots of the plateau jutting into the
plain like vast promontories, with a general elevation of two
thousand feet. This grand feature is evidently due to the wa
ters which, in ancient times, must have rushed down the slope
of the plateau in mighty streams. At present, the chief charac
ter of the country is aridity. On asking my guide whether great
torrents are not still occasionally formed along those ravines
strong enough to reach the sea, he replied, that once only —
forty-four years ago — such a torrent was formed, which, passing
by Zenzur, gave a red color to the sea as far as the island of
Jirbi. He also informed me that, in general, all the waters of
the ridge joined the Wadi Haera.™
* I can scarcely believe this to be correct ; for all the water descending from
the Jebel Yefren evidently joins the little wadi which runs on the east side of

48 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
On our left, in the valley Khalaifa, a group of date-trees, fed
by an abundant spring, called 'Ain el Wuaniye, forms a con
spicuous and interesting object ; while, in general, these valleys
or ravines exhibit, besides small brushwood, only trees of the
siddre {Rhamnus nabeca), jari, and batum tribe. The batum-
tree (Pistacia Atlantica) produces the fruit called gattif, which
is used by the Arabs for a great variety of purposes. Small
brushwood or gandul, also, and various sorts of herbage, such as
sebot, shedide, and sh'ade, enliven the ground.
As we advanced, we changed our direction gradually to the
southwest, and entered the mountainous region. On our right
there extended far into the plain a steep, narrow promontory,
which had served as a natural fortress to the mountaineers in
the last war with the Turks ; but no water being found near
it, its occupants were soon reduced to extremities. Having gone
round the last promontory on our left, we entered the picturesque
valley "Welad 'Ali," once adorned with orchards and groves of
date-trees, but at present reduced to a desolate wilderness, only
a few neglected fig-trees and scattered palms still remaining to
prove how different the condition of this spot might be. After
we had commenced our ascent along the side of the ravine, in
order to return upon the level of the plateau, we made a short
halt near a cluster of about eighty date-trees, where I made the
sketch of the accompanying view. But the ascent became ex
tremely steep, especially near the middle of the slope, where the
water, rushing down in cascades, has laid bare the limestone
rock, and formed a sort of terrace. Here, on the east side of
the cascade, is a spring in a well, called 'Ain el Gatar mt'a We
lad 'Ali. On both of the summits overlooking the slope are two
villages of the Riaina, the eastern one a little larger than the
other, but at present not containing more than about thirty
stone-built cottages. In both we tried in vain to buy a little
barley for our cattle, as we knew not whether, at our halting-
place for the night, we might be able to obtain any ; but we got
Zwara (Zwara el Gharbiye). I am sure that he spoke of the torrents descending
from the Ghurian, which, without doubt, join the Wadi Haera, and, if very exu
berant, will reach the sea at Zenziir.

Vol. L— D

KHALATFA.— BEAUTIFUL RAVINE. 51
plenty of dried figs for ourselves. This slope, with its ravines
and valleys, might certainly produce a very considerable quan
tity of fruit ; and in this respect it resembles in character that
of the so-called Kabylia in Algiers. The rearing of fruit-trees
seems to be a favorite occupation of the Berber race, even in the
more favored spots of the Great Desert.
Continuing our march on the summit of the plateau, we reach
ed the village Kasr Shelluf, which exhibited far greater opulence,
as it had escaped being ransacked by the Turks in the last war.
Most probably in consequence of this circumstance, its inhabit
ants are more hospitably disposed than those of Riaina ; but the
cave or cellar in which they wanted to lodge me had nothing
very attractive for a night's quarters, so that I urged my two
companions onward. Having continued our southwesterly di
rection for a while, and passed another village, we thought it
safer to turn our steps eastward, and took the direction of the
zawiya or convent situated on the summit of the promontory ;
but when we reached it, just after dusk, the masters or teachers
of the young men, who are sent to this holy place for education,
refused to admit us for the night, so that we were obliged to go
on and try to reach one of the five villages of Khalaifa. At
length, after a very difficult descent down the steep rocky slope
in the dark, we succeeded in reaching the principal village, and,
after some negotiation, occasioned by the absence of the Kaid
Bel Kasem, who is chief of the Khalaifa as well as of the Wuerje,
we at length obtained admission, and even something to eat, my
companions (rather against my will) representing me as a Turk.
Sunday, February 10th. Our route on leaving the village was
very pleasant, winding round the sloping sides of several ravines,
among which that formed by the rivulet Wuaniye, and adorned
with date-trees, was the most beautiful. Ascending gradually,
we reached again the level of the plateau, and obtained an ex
tensive prospect, with the remarkable monument Enshed e' Su
fet as a conspicuous and attractive landmark in the distance.
The elevated level had a slight undulation, and was clothed with
halfa (Cynosurus durus) and gedim. However, we did not long
continue on it, but descended into the well-irrigated valley Ru-

52 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
miye, which is extremely fertile, but also extremely unhealthy,
and notorious for its fevers. The beauty of the scenery, enliv
ened as it is by a considerable torrent foaming along the ravine,
and feeding luxuriant clusters of palm, pomegranate, fig, and
apricot trees, surpassed my expectation.
Having kept a while along this picturesque ravine, we ascend
ed its eastern side, and then followed the very edge of the steep
directly for the castle ; but, before reaching our tent, we were
obliged to cross a deep branch of the ravine. There was some
little activity to-day about the castle, it being the market-day ;
but the market was really miserable, and the Turkish troops,
exercising outside the castle, could ill supply the want of na
tional welfare and prosperity. If a just and humane treatment
were guaranteed to these tribes, even under a foreign rule, the
country might still enjoy plenty and happiness. Most of the
tribes westward from the Riaina — namely, the Zintan, who for
merly were very powerful, and even at present hold some pos
sessions as far as Fezzan, the Rujban, the Fissatu, the Welad
Shebel, the Selemat, the Arhebat, the Heraba, the Genaf id, the
Kabaw, and the Nalud, belong to the Berber race. With regard
to the westernmost of these tribes, M. Prax, on his way to Tug-
gurt, has obtained some new information.
After a friendly parting from the Kaimakam, we broke up om
encampment near the kasr, in the afternoon, in order to continue .
our tour eastward along the varied border of the plateau, under
the guidance of a faithful black servant of the governor, whose
name was Barka. Having passed several smaller villages, we
reached Um e' Zerzan, a considerable village, situated on a round
hill in the midst of a valley, ornamented with fine olive-trees,
and surrounded by fine orchards. Um e' Zerzan is well known
among the mountaineers as a centre of rebellion. The whole
neighborhood is full of reminiscences of the late war, and about
two miles in the rear of the village are the remains of strong
walls called el Mataris, behind which the Arabs made some
stand against the Turks. Having passed a solitary rustic dwell
ing surrounded with a thriving olive plantation, we reached the
ruins of a castle or village from which the Roman sepulchre,

UM E ZERZAN.

53

known among the Arabs by the name Enshed e' Sufet burst
suddenly upon our view.
Monday, February 11th. After an extremely cold night on
this high, rocky ground, the thermometer in the morning indi
cating only 5° above freezing-point, with the dawn of day I
mounted the hill opposite to the monument, commanding an ex
tensive view.* It was a level table-land, uninterrupted by any
higher eminence ; but the landscape seemed to me highly char
acteristic, and I made a sketch of it.
Upon this hill there was formerly a castle built of hewn stone.
The foundation walls, which are still traceable, show that it
faced the east, the eastern and the western sides measuring each
57 ft. 8 in., the northern and southern not more than 54 ft. On
the eastern side there was a strong outwork protecting the gate,

and measuring 16 ft. 11 in. on the north and south sides, and
12 ft. 1 in. on the east side, where there was a large gate 9 ft.
1 in. wide. This outwork juts off from the castle at 17 ft. 6 in.
* Mr. Overweg, who made a hypsometrical observation by boiling water, found
the elevation of this spot just the same as that of Mount Tekiit, viz., 2800 feet.

54

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

'-h

I m f IIP
5b

mm

from the south corner. It was evidently a Roman castle ; but
after the dominion of the Romans and Byzantines had passed
away, the Berbers appear to have strengthened it by adding an
other outwork on the west side, not, however, in the same grand

ROMAN SEPULCHRE. 55
style as the Romans, but with small, irregular stones, putting
bastions to the corners, and surrounding the whole castle with
considerable outworks on the slope of the hill.
The Roman castle has been swept away; but the Roman
sepulchre is still preserved, with almost all its architectural
finery, and is still regarded by the surrounding tribes with a
certain awe and reverence.* It was most probably the sepul
chre of a Roman commander of the castle in the time of the An-
tonines ; hence, in my opinion, the name Sufet, by which the
natives have distinguished it. It is certainly not a Punic mon
ument, though it is well known that the Punic language was
generally spoken in several towns of this region much later than
the second century after Christ. The style of its architecture
testifies that it belongs to the second century, but no inscrip
tion remains to tell its story.
This interesting monument is situated on an eminence a lit
tle less elevated than that on which the castle is built, and south-
westward from it. Its whole height is about 36 ft. The base
or pedestal measures 16 ft. 8 £ in. on the W. and E., and 16 ft.
N. and S. Its elevation varies greatly from E. to W., on ac
count of the sloping ground, the eastern side measuring 3 ft. 2
in., the western 5 ft. 7 in. In the interior of this base is the
sepulchral chamber, measuring 7 ft. 1 in. from N. to S., and 6
ft. 6 in. from E. to W., and remarkable for the pecuhar con
struction of the roof. Upon the lowest part of the
base rises a second one 15 ft. 9 in. W. and E., 14 ft.
3£ in. N. and S., and 2 ft. 1 in. high ; and on this a
third one, measuring 14 ft. 7£ in. W. and E., 13 ft.
10^ in. N. and S., and 1 ft. 7 in. in height. Upon this base
rose the principal part of the monument, 13 ft. 7 in. high, and
measuring at its foot 13 ft. 11 J in. W. and E.,. decorated at the
corners with pilasters, the feet of which measure 1 ft. If in., and
* In El Bekri's time (11th century) all these Roman monuments hereabout
were still the objects of adoration. "De nos jours encore, toutes les tribus ber-
beres qui habitent aux- environs ofrrent a cette idole des sacrifices, lui adressent
des prieres pour obtenir la guerison de leurs maladies, et lui attribuent I'accroisse
ment de leurs richesses." — Notices et Extraits, vol. xii., p. 458.

5Q TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
the shaft 9£ in. The moulding is handsomely decorated. Upon
this principal body of the monument is constructed the upper
story, about 10 feet high, decorated with pilasters of the Corin
thian order. On the south and west sides the walls are plain ;
but on the east side they are ornamented with a bow window
inclosed with pilasters of the same order, and on the north side
with a plain window running up the whole height of the body.
Inside of this chamber stood, probably, the statue of the person
in whose honor the monument was erected. The upper com
partment has a plain moulding about four feet high, and sur
mounted by a cornice.
The material of this interesting monument is a very fine
limestone, which, under the influence of the atmosphere, has re
ceived a vivid brownish color, almost like that of travertine. It
was taken from a quarry which extends all round the monument,
and is full of caverns now used by shepherds as resting-places
when they tend their flocks hereabouts.
Our camels had already gone on some time before we parted
from this solitary memorial of Roman greatness ; and after a
little distance we passed the ruins of another Roman fort caUed
Hanshir Hamed. The country hereabouts, forming a sort of
bowl or hollow, and absorbing a great deal of moisture, is very
fertile, and is also tolerably well cultivated, but after a while it
becomes stony. Having here passed a village, we reached a
beautiful little valley, the head of the Wadi Sheikh, which is
irrigated by two springs that feed a splendid little orchard with
all sorts of fruit. Here lies Swedna, a considerable village,
spreading over the whole eminence, and known on account of
the murder of Mohammed Efendi. As the valley divides into
two branches, we followed the main wadi, and afterward crossed
it where it formed a pretty brook of running water. A\^e then
wound along a narrow valley overgrown with halfa and sidr,
and, changing our direction, took the road to Kikla. The val
ley soon became decked with olives, which gradually formed a
fine plantation. This is the chief branch of industry of the in
habitants, the ground being rather stony, and not so fit for grain.
The district of Kikla contains numerous villages, all of which

KIKLA.— WADI KERDEMIN. 57
suffered much from the last war, when a great number of people
were slaughtered and their dwellings ransacked by the Turks.*
Several of these villages lay in small hollows, or on the slope
of ravines, and exhibited rather a melancholy appearance. After
some delay, we resumed our easterly direction toward Rabda,
and soon came to the .spot where the elevated ground descends
abruptly into the deep and broad valley called Wadi Rabda,
over which we obtained an interesting view. To the left the
slope broke into a variety of cones and small mounts, among
which the Tarhona — "the mill," so called from a mill that
stood formerly on its summit — is remarkable for its handsome
shape ; while in front of us rose an almost perpendicular cliff
of limestone, on a turn of which, in a very commanding position,
lies the village Jafet, inclosed and naturally defended on every
side by a deep ravine. Here we commenced our descent, which
took us a whole hour ; on the middle of the slope we passed a
kiln for preparing gypsum. At length we reached the side val
ley, which joins the main wadi on the west. It was ornament
ed with a few solitary date-trees, and the beautifully shaped
slopes and cones of the Tarhona were just illuminated by a
striking variety of light and shade. The soil, a fertile marl, re
mained uncultivated. Gradually we entered the main valley, a
grand chasm of about four miles and a half in width, which has
been formed by the mighty rushing of the waters downt the
slope of the plateau. In its upper part it is called Wadi Ker-
demin, in its lower part Wadi Sert. The industry of man
might convert it into a beautiful spot ; but at present it is a
desolate waste, the monotonous halfa being the only clothing
of the ground.
The eastern border presents a perpendicular rocky cliff about
1500 feet high, on the brink of which lies the village Misga.
* These villages are as follows : Bii-Jafet, Amsir, Welad Bu-Siri, El Abaiyat,
Welad Mtisa, Welad Na'am, Welad Amran, Ghurfa, Welad Si-Ammer, El Kho-
dhiir, Nsii, Takban, Welad S'aid, Gujila (consisting of four separate villages),
Jendiiba, Welad Bu-Musi, Msaida, El Fratsa, Shehesh, Negiir, and El Makhrug.
t Compare what Captain Lyon narrates with regard to the valley of Beniulid,
p. 61 of his Narrative.

58 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
The westerr border consists of a cluster of detached mounts
and rocks. Among these, a black cone, which attracted Mr.
Overweg's attention, was found on examination to be pure ba
salt, with certain indications of former volcanic action. From
beyond this remarkable cone, a mount was visible crowned with
a castle. As we proceeded, the valley became enlivened by two
small Arab encampments. Here we gradually obtained a view
of the date-grove of Rabda, which, from the foot of the steep
eastern cliffs, slopes down into the bottom of the valley, and is
overtopped, in the distance, by the handsome bifurcated Mount
Manterus. But Rabda was too far off to be reached before
sunset ; and we encamped in the wadi, near a group of five tents
inhabited by Lasaba or El Asaba Arabs, whpse chief paid us a
visit and treated us with bazin, but declined tasting our coffee,
probably thinking, with his fellow-chief the other day, that we
were in the service of the Turks, and wanted to poison him.
All the people of these regions regard strangers with suspicion.
Tuesday, February 12th. Soon after we had started we en
tered upon cultivated ground, the first trace of industry we had
seen in this spacious valley. The eastern cliffs formed here a
wide " chasm, through which a lateral valley joined the Wadi
Sert. On the southern slope of this valley lies the Kasr La?
saba, from which a torrent that came forth from it, and crossed
our route, presented a refreshing spectacle. Emerging gradual
ly from the valley, we obtained an extensive view over the plain
called El Gatis. Westward, as far as the well called Bir el
Ghanem, little was to be seen which could gladden the eye of
the husbandman. Toward the northeast the level is interrupt
ed by a small range of hills, the culminating points of which,
called El Guleat and M'anmura, rise to a great elevation. Be
yond this range the plain is called Shefana, the country of the
Ur-shefana. At nine o'clock we reached the fine date-grove of the west
ernmost village of Rabda. It is fed by a copious spring, which
arrested our attention. Following it up to trace its source, we
were greatly surprised to find, in the heart of some date-trees,
a basin fifty feet in length and about thirty in breadth, in which

RABDA. 59
the water was continually bubbling up, and sending forth a con
siderable stream to spread life and cheerfulness around. The
water gushed up at a temperature of 72° Fahrenheit, while
that of the air was only 52°. Besides dates, a large quantity
of onions is produced in this fertile spot. The village itself
was in former times the residence of Hamid, a powerful Arab
chieftain, wi.0 at one time ruled the whole mountainous district,
but was obliged to yield to the Turks, and lives at present
about Beni-Ulid, where I had to deal with him on my home
journey in 1855.
The groves of the two villages of Rabda are not far apart.
On the northeastern side of the village are seven holy chapels
called El Hararat. The eastern village lies upon a hill, over a
hollow, in which spreads a date-grove, likewise fed by a spring
called 'Ain Rabda e' sherkiyeh. On crossing a brook we ob
tained a view of the Jebel Shehesh, which, attached to the Ta-
hona, stretches a long way westward, and even El Gunna was
seen faintly in the distance. Thus we approached gradually
the interesting bicorn of the dark-colored Jebel Manterus, which
we were bent on ascending. Alighting at the foot of the mount,
near the border of a deep channel, we sent the camels on, but
kept the shoush and our guide back to wait for us. It took me
twenty-five minutes to reach the eastern and higher summit, on
which there is the tomb of a merabet, a holy shepherd, called
Sidi Bu-M'aza ; but I was disappointed in my expectation of
obtaining a great extent of view, the cone of Mount Tekut and
other mountains intervening. Toward the south only, a peep
into the Wadi el Ugla, bordered by high cliffs, slightly reward
ed me for my trouble ; and the mount itself is interesting, as it
exhibits evident traces of volcanic action.
I had reached the western lower cone in descending when I
met my companion in his ascent, and, being anxious to overtake
the camels, I started in advance of him, accompanied by the
guide, along the Wadi el Ugla. But my companions did not
seem to agree as to the path to be pursued, and my guide, over
looking on the rocky ground the footsteps of the camels, wliich
had taken the direct path to the Kasr Ghurian, wanted to take

60 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
me by the wadi, and, instead of ascending the eastern cliffs of
the ravine, kept along it, where, from being narrow and rocky,
the mere bed of a torrent, it widens to a pleasant, cultivated,
open valley, with rich marly soil, and adorned with an olive-
grove. On a hill in the centre lies the first village of the dis
trict Ghurian.
We had begun to leave the principal valley by a lateral open
ing, when the shoush, overtaking us, led us back to the more
northern and more difficult, but shorter path which our camels
had taken. The ascent was very steep indeed, and the path then
wound along the mountain side and across ravines, till at length
we reached the olive-grove which surrounds the Kasr Ghurian;
but in the dark we had some difficulty in reaching it, and still
more in finding our companions, who at length, however, rejoined
the party. In order to obtain something to eat, we were obliged
to pay our respects to the governor, but the Turks in the castle
were so suspicious that they would scarcely admit us. When at
last they allowed us to slip through the gate in single file, they
searched us for arms ; but the governor, having assured himself
that we had no hostile intention, and that we were furnished
with a letter from the basha, sent a servant to procure us a lodg
ing in the homestead or housh of a man called Ibrahim, where
we pitched our tent. It was then nine o'clock, and we felt quite
disposed to enjoy some food and repose.
Wednesday, February Yo'th. We paid a visit to the govern
or, who, as well as the agha, received us with the civility usual
with Turks, and, in order to do us honor, ordered the garrison,
consisting of 200 men, to pass in review before us. They were
good-looking men and well conditioned, though generally rather
young. He then showed us the magazines, which are always
kept in good order for fear of a revolt, but will be of no avail
so long as the command rests with ignorant and unprincipled
men. It is built on a spur of the table-land, commanding on
the south and southwest side the Wadi Rummana and the high
road into the interior. Toward the north the lower hilly ground
intervenes between it and Mount Tekut.
Having returned to our quarters, we started on foot, a little

KASR TEGHRINNA. 61
after midday, on an excursion to Mo'unt Tekut, which, from its
elevation and its shape, appeared to us well worth a visit. De
scending the slope by the "trik tobbi," a road made by the
Turks, we reached the eastern foot of the mountain, after an
hour and a half's expeditious march through the village of
Gwasem, and olive-groves, and over a number of subterranean
dwellings. My companion went round to the south side in
search of an easier ascent. I chose the cliff just above us, which,
though steep, indeed, and difficult on account of scattered blocks
and stones, was not very high. Having once climbed it, I had
easier work, keeping along the crest, which, winding upward in
a semicircle, gradually led to the highest point of the mountain,
on the north side, with an absolute elevation of about 2800 feet.
On the top are the ruins of a chapel of Si Ramadhan, which, I
think, is very rarely visited. The crest, which has fallen in on
the S.E. side, incloses a perfectly circular little plain, resem
bling an amphitheatre, and called Sh'abet Tekut. The mount
appears evidently to have been an active volcano in former
times, yet my companion declared the rock not to be pure ba
salt. The view was very extensive, and I was able to take the
angles of several conspicuous points. After we had satisfied
our curiosity, we descended along the northern slope, which is
much more gradual, being even practicable for horses, and left
the " Sh'abet" by the natural opening. Thence we returned
along the path called Um e' Nekhel, which passes by the Ro
man sepulchre described by Lyon in general terms,* and situ
ated in a very conspicuous position.
Thursday, February lUh. Accompanied by the shoush, I
made an excursion in a southwesterly direction. The villages,
at least those above the ground, are generally in a wretched
condition and half deserted ; still the country is in a tolerable
state of cultivation, saffron and olive-trees being the two staple
articles of industry. Passing the little subterranean village of
Shuedeya, we reached the Kasr Teghrinna, originally a Berber
settlement, as its name testifies, with a strong position on a per
fectly detached hill. At present the kasr, or the village on the
* Lyon's Narrative, p. 30.

62 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
hill-top, is little more than a heap of ruins, inhabited only by a
few families. At the northern foot of the hill a small village
has recently been formed, called Menzel Teghrinna. On the
west and east sides the hill is encompassed by a valley with a
fine olive-grove, beyond which the Wadi el Arb'a stretches
westward ; and it was by this roundabout way that my guide
had intended to take^ me from Wadi el Ugla to Kasr Ghurian.
Protected by the walls, I was able to take a few angles ; but
the strong wind which prevailed soon made me desist.
From this spot I went to the villages called Ksur Gamudi.
These once formed likewise a strong place, but were entirely de
stroyed in the last war, since which a new village has arisen at
the foot of the rocky eminence. A few date-trees grow at the
north foot of the hill, while it is well known that the palm is
rare in the Ghurian. As I was taking angles from the top of
the hill, the inhabitants of the village joined me, and manifested
a friendly disposition, furnishing me readily with any informa
tion, but giving full vent to their hatred of the Turks. As the
most remarkable ruins of the time of the Jahaliyeh — or the pa
gans, as the occupants of the country before the time of Moham
med are called — they mentioned to me, besides Ghirze, a tower
or sepulchre called Metui7je, about two days' journey S.E. ;
Beluwar, another tower-like monument at less distance ; and in
a S.W. direction 'Amud, a round edifice which has not yet been
visited by any European.
The valley at the foot of the Ksur Gamudi is watered hy
several abundant springs, which once supplied nourishment for
a great variety of vegetables ; but the kitchen-gardens and or
chards are at present neglected, and corn alone is now cultivated
as the most necessary want. The uppermost of these springs,
which are stated to be six in number, is called Sma Rh'ain — not
an Arabic name. Beyond, toward the south, is Jehesha, fur
ther eastward Usaden, mentioned by Lyon, with a chapel, Geha
with a chapel, and, going round toward the north, Shetan, and,
further on, Mesufin. The country beyond Kuleba, a village
forming the southern border of the Ghurian, is called Ghadama,
a name evidently connected with that of Ghadames, though we

HANSHIR. 63
know the latter to be at least of two thousand years' stand
ing. Continuing our march through the valley N.E., and passing
the village Bu-Mat and the ruined old places called Hanshir
Metelili and Hanshir Jamum,* we reached the ruins of another
old place called Hanshir Settara, in the centre of the olive-grove.
The houses, which in general are built of small irregular stones,
present a remarkable contrast to a pair of immense slabs, above
ten feet long and regularly hewn, standing upright, which I at
first supposed to be remnants of a large building ; but having
since had a better opportunity of studying this subject, I con
cluded that they were erected, like the cromlechs, for some re
ligious purpose. On the road back to our encampment, the in
habitants of Gamudi, who were unwilling to part company with
me, gave vent to their hatred against the Turks in a singular
way. While passing a number of saffron plantations, which I
said proved the productiveness of their country, they maintain
ed that the present production of saffron is as nothing compared
to what it was before the country came into the impious hands
of the Osmanlis. In former times, they said, several stems
usually shot forth from the same root, whereas now scarcely a
single sample can be found with more than one stalk — a natural
consequence of the contamination or pollution (nejes) of the
Turks, whose predominance had caused even the laws of nature
to deteriorate. In order to prove the truth of this, they went
about the fields and succeeded in finding only a single specimen
with several stems issuing from the same root.
Passing the subterranean villages of Suayeh and Ushen, and
further on that called Housh el Yehud, which, as its name in
dicates, is entirely inhabited by Jews, we reached our encamp
ment in the housh of Ibrahim. The subterranean dwellings
which have been described by Captain Lyonf seem to me to
* I will only mention that the name " Hanshir" is evidently the same word
with the "Hazeroth" of the Hebrew wanderers.
f The name of this part of the mountains has, I think, been erroneously
brought into connection with these caves. For, from the word ghar, |i , the
< .
regular and only plural form besides iVil is i^y^- . E' Sheikh e' Tijani

64 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
have originated principally with the Jews, who, from time im
memorial, had become intimately connected with the Berbers,
many of the. Berber tribes having adopted the Jewish creed;
and just in the same way as they are found mingling with the
Berbers in these regions — for the original inhabitants of the
Ghurian belong entirely to the Berber race — on friendly terms,
so are they found also in the recesses of the Atlas in Morocco.
I then went to see the market, which is held every Thursday
on the open ground at the east side of the castle, close to the
northern edge of the ridge. Though much better supplied than
that near Kasr Jebel, it was yet extremely poor ; only a single
camel was offered for sale. This results from the mistrust of
the inhabitants, who, in bringing their produce to the great mar
ket at Tripoli, are less exposed to vexations than here. When
taking leave of the Kaimakam, we found the whole castlebeset
by litigants. I saw in the company of the governor the chief
of the Haj caravan, the Sheikh el Rakeb, of whose grand en
trance into the town I had been witness. The agha, wanting
to show us their little paradise, accompanied us into the Wadi
Rummana, which, in a direction from S.E. to N.W., winds along
the southern foot of the ridge on which the castle is situated.
Though it looks rather wild and neglected, it is a charmingre-
treat for the leisure hours of a governor of a place like thisMfe
is irrigated by a very powerful spring issuing from the limestoM
rock in a channel widened by art, and then dividing into several
little rills, which are directed over the terraces of the , slopf
These, of course, have been raised by art, and are laid out|P
orchards, which, besides the pomegranates which have : given
their name to the valley, produce sferej (sfarajel) — the Malum
Cydonium — of an excellent quality, figs, grapes, and almonds.
A path, practicable even for horses, leads down from the castle
to the spring. Before I left this charming spot I made a sketch
of the valley, with the castle on the cliffs, which is represented
in the accompanying plate.
certainly (Journal Asiatique, serie v., torn, i., p. 110) calls it expressly by this
name> (jlrfC- But we see from Ebn Khaldiim (torn, i., p. 275, transl.) that
Ghurian was the name of a tribe.

WmmSsSSm

nmrn

OL. I — K

A SNOW-STORM. 67

CHAPTER III.
FERTILE MOUNTAIN REGION RICH IN ANCIENT REMAINS.
It was past three in the afternoon of Thursday, February
14th, when we started from the dwelling of our host in order to
pursue our route in a southeasterly direction. We were agree
ably surprised to see fine vineyards at the village called Jelili ;
but the cultivation of olive-trees seemed almost to cease here,
while the country became quite open, and afforded an unbound
ed prospect toward the distant southern range, with its peaks,
depressions, and steep slopes. But the fine olive-grove of Sgaif
proved that we had not yet reached the limit of this useful tree.
We were just about to descend the slope into the broad valley
called Wadi Ran, when, seeing darkness approaching, and fright
ened by the black clouds rising from the valley, together with a
very chilly stream of air, we began to look seriously about for
some secure shelter for the night. To our right we had a pleas
ant little hollow with olive-trees ; but that would not suffice in
such weather as was apparently approaching, and we therefore
descended a little along the cliffs on our left, where our shoush
knew that there were caverns called Merwan. Scarcely had we
pitched our tent on the little terrace in front of these when the
rain began to pour down, and, accompanied with snow, contin
ued the whole night.
When we arose next morning, the whole country was cover
ed with snow about an inch deep, and its natural features were
no longer recognizable. Placed on the very brink of a bank
partly consisting of rocky ground, with many holes, partly of
marly soil, and, accordingly, very slippery, we could not think
of starting. At half past six the thermometer stood at 34°
Fahrenheit. Fortunately, our tent, which had been fitted by
Mr. Warrington for every kind of weather, kept the wet out.

68 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
The caverns were very irregular excavations, used by the shep
herds as temporary retreats, and full of fleas. The snow did
not melt till late in the afternoon, and the rain fell without in
termission the whole night.
February 16th. In the morning the bad weather still contin
ued, but the cold was not quite so severe. Tired as we were
of our involuntary delay in such a place, we decided upon start
ing, but it was difficult to get our half frozen people to go to
work. At length we set out, accompanied by an old man whom
we hired as guide, on the deep descent into Wadi Ran. The
soil was often so slippery that the camels could scarcely keep
their feet, and we were heartily glad when, after an hour and a
quarter's descent, we at length reached stony ground, though
still on the slope. Here the valley spread out before us to the
right and left, with the village Usine, inhabited by the Merabe
tin Selahat, situated on the top of a hill, and distinguished for
the quality of its dates, which are of a peculiar kind, short and
thick, with a very broad stone ; while at the foot of the west
ern heights another village was seen, and on the top of them the
castle Bustam. Here the great valley is joined by a smaller
ravine, called Wadi Nkhal, with a small village of the same
name. We crossed two paths leading to Beni Ulid, passing hy
Wadi Ran, which went parallel to our course on the right, and
where there are two springs and a date-grove, while to the left
we obtained a view of Sedi-uris, situated on a cone overtower-
ing the northern end of Wadi Kominshat. We then approach
ed closely the steep glen of Wadi Ran, and, after some turn
ings, crossed the small rivulet which flows through it, and, a
little farther on, recrossed it. Then, traversing the valley call
ed Wadi Marniyeh, we entered a fine fertile plain surrounded on
all sides by heights, among which the Keluba Na'ame was con
spicuous on our right.
But the camels found the marly soil, fully saturated as it was
with rain, very difficult, especially after we had entered " Sh'a
bet soda." For this reason, also, we could not think of follow
ing the direct path which leads over the hills. At the western
end of the sh'abet are the villages Deb Beni 'Abas and Suadi-

WADI RAN. 69
yeh, with olive-groves. All the waters of the district are car
ried into Wadi Ran, which joins the Wadi Haera.
The country begins to exhibit decidedly a volcanic character,
and from all the heights rise bare basaltic cones, while the low
er part is covered with halfa. This character of the country
seems to have been well understood by the Arabs, when they
gave to these basins, surrounded by basaltic mounts, the name
" Sh'abet," which we have already seen given to the crater of
the Tekut. Here, at a short distance on our left, we passed
"another Sh'abet," distinguished as "El Akhera."
At length we found an opening through the hilly chain on
our right, behind an indented projection of the ridge called
" Sennet el Osis," and then suddenly changed our course from
N.E. to S.E. As soon as we had made the circuit of this
mount, we obtained a view of the highest points of the Tarhona,
and directed our course by one of them, Mount Bibel, which is
said to be sometimes visible from Tripoli. Tales of deadly
strife are attached to some localities hereabouts ; and, accord
ing to our guide, the torrent which we crossed beyond Wadi
Ruera poured down, some years ago, a bloody stream. But at
present the scene wants life, the Kasr Kuseba, situated on the
apex of a cone, being almost the only dwelling-place which we
had seen for five hours. Life has fled from these fertile and
pleasant regions, and the monotonous character which they at
present exhibit necessarily impresses itself on the narrative of
the traveler.
At length, after having entered the gorges of the mountains,
we reached the encampment of the Merabetin Bu-'Aaysha, and
pitched our tent at a short distance from it. These people have
considerable herds of camels and sheep ; as for cattle, there are
at present very few in the whole regency of Tripoli, except in
the neighborhood of Ben-ghazi. Their chief, 'Abdallah, who
lives in Tripoli, is much respected. The valleys and plains
hereabouts, when well saturated with rain, produce a great
quantity of corn, but they are almost entirely destitute of trees.
Having been thoroughly drenched to-day by heavy showers, we
were in a very uncomfortable condition at its close.

70 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Sunday, February 11th. About an hour before sunrise, when
the thermometer stood at 41°, I set out to ascend an eminence
north from our tent, which afforded me an excellent site whence
to take the bearings- of several prominent cones. After my re
turn to the tent, we started together in advance of the camels,
that we might have time to ascend the broad cone of Jebel
Msid, which had arrested our attention. We soon passed a
well, or rather fountain, called Bir el 'Ar, which gives its name
to some ancient monument (" sanem," or idol, as it is called hy
the Arabs) at a little distance, and which the guide described as
a kasr tawil Beni Jehel, " a high fortress of the Romans." The
country was varied and pleasant, and enlivened, moreover, hy
flocks ; but we saw no traces of agriculture till we reached the
well called Hasi el abiar, beyond which we entered upon a vol
canic formation. As we ascended along a small ravine, and en
tered another irregular mountain plain of confined dimensions,
we found the basalt in many places protruding from the surface.
The more desolate character of the country was interrupted in
a pleasant way by the Wadi Nekhel, which has received its
name from the number of palm-trees which grow here in a very
dwarfish state, though watered by a copious spring. Following
the windings of another small valley, we reached a plain at the
foot of Mount Msid, while on the right a large ravine led down
from the heights. Here we commenced our ascent of the cone,
and on the slope of the mountain we met with large pillars sim
ilar to those which I had seen in the ruins of Hanshir Settara.
The pillars succeeded each other at regular distances up the
slope, apparently marking the track to be followed by those as
cending for religious purposes. The ascent was very gradual
for the first twelve minutes, and twelve minutes more brought
us to its summit, which was crowned with a castle of good
Arabic masonry of about the thirteenth century. Its ruined
walls gave us a little protection against the very strong blasts
of wind ; but we found it rather difficult to take accurate angles,
which was the more to be regretted as a great many peaks were
visible from this beautifully-shaped and conspicuous mount.
It was a little past noon when we pursued our journey from

SINGULAR MONUMENTS. 71
the western foot of this once holy mount,* and, turning its
southern side, resumed our northeasterly direction. We then
soon came to the " Wadi hammam," which forms here a wider
basin for the brook running along it toward Mejenin, so as to
produce a pleasant and fresh green spot. Having watered our
animals, we entered a plain from which detached basaltic hil
locks started up ; and some ruins of regularly-hewn stones, scat
tered about, bore testimony that the Romans had deemed the
place worthy of fixed settlements. A small limestone hill con
trasts handsomely with these black basaltic masses, among
which the Leblu, the highest summit of a larger group to our
right, is particularly remarkable. At the foot of the 'Jebel
Jemm'a was an encampment of the Welad 'Ali, but I can not
say in what degree they are connected with the family which
has given its name to the valley in the Yefren. From this
side in particular the Jebel Msid presents the form of a beauti
ful dome, the most regular I remember to have ever seen. It
seems to rise with a proud air over its humbler neighbors.
Having then passed a continuous ridge of cones stretching
S.S.E., and cleared the basaltic region, we entered a wide plain
covered with halfa, and, cutting right across it, we reached the
fertile low plain Elkeb, where another encampment of the We
lad 'Ali excited the desire of our people to try their hospitality
for our night's quarters ; but some distance to the left two enor
mous pillars were to be seen standing upright, and thither we
repaired. Here I had an opportunity of accurately investigat
ing a very peculiar kind of ancient remains, giving a clew, I
hope, to the character of the religion of the early inhabitants of
these regions, though it seems impossible to give a satisfactory
explanation respecting all the details of their structure.
It consists in a pair of quadrangular pillars erected on a com
mon basis, which is fixed into the ground, and measures 3 ft.
1^' in length, and 2 ft. 10' in width. The two pillars, which
measure 2 feet on each side, being 1 ft. 1-^' asunder, aie 10 feet
high. The western pillar has three quadrangular holes on the
* The ancient character of this mountain is most probably indicated by its
present name "Msid."

72

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

inside, while the corresponding holes in the eastern pillar go
quite through ; the lowest hole is 1 ft. 8' above the ground, and
the second 1 ft. % higher up, and so the third above the second.
The holes are 6 inches square.
Over these pillars, which at present lean to one side, is laid
another enormous stone about 6 feet 6^ inches long, and of the
same width as the pillars, so that the whole structure bears a
surprising resemblance to the most conspicuous part of the cel
ebrated Celtic ruins at Stonehenge* and other ruins in Malabar,!
about the religious purpose of which not the least doubt remains
at present. But, besides these, there are other very curious
stones of different workmanship, and destined evidently for dif
ferent purposes ; some of them are large, flat, and quadrangu
lar, very peculiarly worked, and adapted, probably, to sacrifices.
One of them is three feet in length and breadth, but with a pro
jection on one side, as is represented in the woodcut, and 1 ft.
2" high. On the surface of this stone, and parallel to its sides,
is carved a channel 4^ inches broad, forming a quadrangle ; and
* See especially the Plate No. 7, in Higgins's " Celtic Druids."
t See Plate No. 39, in Higgins's work.

STRUCTURE DESCRIBED. 73
from this a small channel branches along the projecting part.
Several stones of similar workmanship lie about. There is also
the remnant of an enormous stone 3 ft. 7^ inches at the back and
across, but rounded off at the corners, looking like a solid throne,
excepting that on the upper side there is an excavation measur
ing 1 ft. 3-j2ff in. at the back, 9-^ inches on the front, and 1 ft.
1^ in. across, and about 10 inches deep, with a small opening.
This stone looks very peculiar, and probably formed an altar.
These ruins are certainly very remarkable. Any one who
looks at them without prejudice or preconceived opinion will be
impressed with the belief that they belonged to a place of wor
ship, though how this peculiar structure could be adapted to
religious purposes I will not undertake to decide. It is well
known that the most ancient idols were mere pillars or stones,
not only of a round or conical shape, as symbols of the procre-
ative power of nature, but even of a square form. It is also well
known, from the examples of the columns in On or Heliopolis,
of the two celebrated columns, Yakin and Bo'az, in front of the
temple in Jerusalem, and from that of the two pillars of the Phoe
nician Hercules in Gades, that the power of the Deity was often
represented by a pair. A pair of massive columns or pillars,
covered with a similarly massive impost, may well serve to rep
resent symbolically the firmness and eternity of the cosmical
order, while the name of the chief deity of the pagan Berbers,
'Amun, may possibly have the original meaning of "theFounder,
Supporter." But I will not enter here into such conjectures ;
I will only say that my distinct impression on the spot was,
that the structure was a rude kind of sun-dial, combining the
vertical with the horizontal principle. That it could not be in
tended as a common doorway, even if it were connected with
another building, is evident from the narrowness of the passage;
but it may have had the purpose of serving as a sort of peniten
tial or purgatory passage in consecrating and preparing the wor
shipers,* previous to their offering sacrifices, by obliging them
to squeeze themselves through this narrow passage, the incon-
* Compare what Higgins says, p. Ix., in describing the Constantine tolmen in
Cornwall.

74 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
venience of which was increased by the awful character attrib
uted to this cromlech. Even in Christian and Mohammedan
countries religious ordeals of a similar kind are not unknown;
and a very analogous custom in the celebrated mosque of Kair-
owan may well have its origin in the older pagan practice of the
aborigines. However this may be, the religious character of the
whole structure can scarcely be doubtful, from the nature of the
flat stone, the channel in which was certainly intended to carry
off the blood of the victim.*
It must strike the observer, in regarding these ruins, that
while they are so rude in principle, their style of execution evi
dently bears traces of art ; and I think it not improbable that
the art may be ascribed to Roman influence. We shall further
on see another specimen of these curious pillars combined with
the ground-plan of an almost regular Roman temple. But, from
whatever this artificial influence may have proceeded, there can
not be the least doubt that the character of the structure is, on
the whole, not Roman, but indicates quite another race ; and if
we take into regard what I have just said about the influence
of art visible in this structure, and that such influence could
scarcely proceed from any other quarter than that of the Car
thaginians or the Romans, we must attribute these remains to
the Berber race, who, during the historical period, were the ex
clusive possessors of these inland regions. Analogous struct
ures have been found, however, not only in England and Ire
land on the one side, and in several parts of India, principally
in the Nilgherries, on the other, but also in Circassia, Southern
Russia, on the South Arabian coast, and in the Somali country.
This analogy might certainly be explained by a similarity of
principle in the simple religious rites of rude people ; but there
may be also in these curious remains a confirmation of the the
ories of Sir Henry Rawlinson respecting the wide extension of
the Scythians. But while, with regard to other tribes, from
the Dravidian group in Southern India to the Celtic in Ireland,
such a connection of origin seems to be confirmed by

* From this plain example it might seem that the flat stone in Stonehenge
was intended for a similar purpose.

OTHER ANCIENT RUINS. 75
of language, there exist but very few points of analogy between
the Berber and the Central Asiatic languages, except by means
of the Coptic. In every respect, however, it may be better to
call such remains by the general name of Scythian than by that
of Druidical, which certainly can be justified only with regard
to the northwest of Europe.
These remarkable ruins are at a short distance from the foot
of a fortified hill, which is crowned with ancient fortifications
of hewn stone, to which are added later works of small stones.
Other ruins of cut-stone buildings lie about ; and on an em
inence at a little distance eastward is a small castle belonging
to the earlier times of the Arabs, while on the highest top of the
hilly chain behind the Arab encampment, and which is called
Gabes, are likewise ruins. The ruins of a whole village, partly
built of regularly-cut stone, and even exhibiting the ornament
of a column, were found the next morning near our encampment,
which our people had placed on the slope of the hills bordering
the plain toward the northeast.
All these ruins are evident proofs that the fertile plain Elkeb,
and the adjoining one, called Madher, were once well cultivated
and thickly inhabited. Their situation is very favorable, as the
direct road from Tripoli to Beni Ulid and Sokna, by way of the
valley Melgha, passes close by. We had here descended to an
average height of about one thousand feet above the level of the
sea. February 18th. During the night there was heavy rain, which
lasted till morning, and delayed our starting till rather late.
After about a mile and a half's march, we ascended a little from
the plain to the undulating pastures of the Dhahar Tarhona,
which soon became enlivened by the tents and herds of the Me-
gaigera, and where I was glad to see at length a few cows.
The ground, though scantily covered with herbage, was dotted
with lilies, which my companion called baludt, though this name
is generally understood to signify the ash-tree. Our guide1
from Meruan informed me here that the water of this district
takes its course, not toward the north, as might be expected,
but toward the southeast, running from hence to Temasla, on

76

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

this side of Beni Ulid, thence into the Wadi Merdum, and
thence into Wadi Sofejin, which, as is well known, descends
toward Tawargha. A little further on we left, on a small em
inence to the left, another hanshir surrounded by cultivated
ground. It had been an inconsiderable place, built chiefly of
small stones ; but even here two enormous pillars or slabs were
to be seen standing in the midst of the rubbish. There were
two holes in each of these pillars, going quite through, and
widening on one side.
At half past nine o'clock, when passing the Hanshir Bu-Tre-
hebe, at a distance of more than two miles on our left, we had a
fine retrospective view of the various peaks of the Ghurian range,
while on our left a lower range approached more and more, with
two summits rising from it to a greater elevation. About noon
we passed another site, called Hanshir Suan, where are the re
mains of a large castle, with' an inner and outer fortification,
built of small stones, but in a very neat and regular style. The
country, chiefly owing to the murkiness of the sky, had begun
to assume a very sombre character, and was crossed by stripes
of red sand, which, however, affords the best soil for the growth
of the pumpkin ; but in the afternoon it improved greatly,
showing fine pasture-ground and ample corn-fields, and, among
the ruins of ancient times, the rare example of a well-propor
tioned and neatly-worked Ionic capital, which I found at the
border of a ravine. Further on, upon a detached low rock,
which had been hewn into rectangular walls, and surrounded
with a ditch, were seen ruins of cut stones, very similar in ap
pearance to those of Kasr Jahaliyeh, near Gargash. We at
length found traces of living beings, in an Arab encampment
situated in a green hollow, where we learned that the Kaid or
governor of Tarhona, whose residence we were in search of, was
at present encamped near the spring called 'Ain Shershara.
The country gradually assumes a more diversified aspect,
agreeably succeeding its former monotony. A considerable
mountain range, with manifold crags, peaks, and ravines, ap
proaches from the S.S.W., and, turning N.E., presents an in
surmountable barrier to an advance in that direction, while the

APPROACH TO TARHONA. 77
plain sweeps nicely in a concave toward its foot ; but it is quite
bare and desolate, and only now and then is seen a poor rem
nant of the large olive-grove, consisting, according to the state
ment of our shoush, of 10,000 trees, which Bey 'Abd Allah, in
Masrata, my host on my former journey, had ventured to plant
here five years ago. My people maintained, whether correctly
or not I can not say, that the strong gales which prevail in this
plain did not allow the young olive-tree to thrive. I think the
failure is due rather to the character of the inhabitants, who, un
accustomed to this branch of culture, have not paid the neces
sary attention to the young trees.
Having passed a small wadi, we came in sight of the encamp
ment of the governor, which stretched out in front of us in a
well-chosen situation at the southern foot of a small cone. A
Turkish officer's green tent, pitched a httle in advance, was sur
rounded by several smaller ones, while another group of twelve.
Bedwin tents, in a higher position up the slope of the mount,
contained the household. The governor received us in a very
friendly but rather affected manner, which seemed peculiar to
him, and might even be thought becoming in a man who has as
sisted his country's foes in exterminating all the members of
his family, formerly one of the foremost in the country. His
friends, who try to represent him as an honest man, say that he
was forced to the deed, after having once entered into Turkish
service. This man, Bel Kasem el Loheshi Mahmudi, has since
played a conspicuous part in the present revolution ; for he it
was who led the Turkish force last year against Ghoma, his near
relative but most bitter enemy, who, having been a prisoner in
Trebizond for many years, suddenly made his escape from thence
during the Russian war, and, issuing from the Tunisian frontier,
appeared in Jebel Yefren. El Loheshi was routed, and taken
prisoner, and, according to the first report, slain by the success
ful rebel. When we visited El Loheshi, he had occupied his
new post only for the last year, having been before governor of
the Jebel. During all the period he had been in Tarhona, he
assured us he had not moved his encampment from this place ;
which I can well understand, as it is a very pleasant spot. His

78 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
principal business, of course, consists in collecting the tithes, in
registering which he was busily employed. He knew very lit
tle of the province under his government, and it was to other
men that I had to look for information.
Having pitched our tent near that of the governor, we pro
ceeded to make ourselves acquainted with the locality, and, a
few paces north from our encampment, stumbled upon the fa
mous brook called 'Ain Shersher, or 'Ain Shershara, which, pro
ceeding from the junction of three springs, forms here a cascade
of about twenty-five feet over the firm calcareous rock. Eun-
ning west a short distance, it then turns north, and, breaking
through the mountain slope in a deep, picturesque glen, takes the
direction of the Wadi Ramie, which, however, it only reaches
during great floods.
It seems as if this pleasant spot had already been a favorite
residence in the Roman times, as is amply shown by the fine
ruins of a large building of hewn stone, which the torrent has rent
asunder and scattered on both sides. From this place, ascend
ing the side of a very wild ravine, we reached the height which
overlooks the Bed win encampment, and on the morning of the
following day made a more distant excursion to the mount call
ed Bu-tauwil, about three miles north, which was represented
to us as affording a very distant prospect, and the name of which
seemed to promise more than ordinary elevation.
As to the view we were rather disappointed ; yet we were
well repaid for our trouble from the character of the country
traversed, and the unexpectedly pleasing aspect of the terrace
spread out at the western foot of the mountain, which must have
formed a favorite retirement in the time of the Romans, so lit
erally strewn is it with the ruins of buildings of hewn stone.
In descending it, about 300 feet below the summit, we first came
to a Roman tomb, 8 ft. 7 in. long, and 7 ft. 9 in. broad, rising
in two stories, the lower being about ten feet high from the base
to the moulding, and ornamented with pilasters at the corners.
A little farther on, to the west, was another tomb, just on the
brink of the slope into the valley below ; but it has been de
stroyed, and at present the chief interest attaches to a monu-

RUINS NEAR 'AIN SHERSHARA. 79
mental stone, which most probably stood upright on its top, and
fell down when the monument went to pieces, so that it now lies
in a merely casual position on the floor of the sepulchre, which
has been repeatedly rifled by greedy hands. This stone is 7 ft.
2 in. long, and has on one side, in high relief, the figure of a man,
of natural size, clothed in a toga. The workmanship is good,
and certainly not much later than the time of Severus. Close
at hand are other ruins lying about ; and farther west are sev
eral groups of buildings. Three olive-trees and a palm-tree
adorned this beautiful retired spot.
Having returned to our encampment, I and my companion
resolved to separate for a few days, Overweg wishing to exam
ine the neighborhood of the 'Ain Shershara for geological pur
poses, while I was rather bent upon executing the original plan
of our route all round the mountain range. We agreed to meet
again at the castle called Kasr el Jefara, in the plain near the
sea-shore. We borrowed another tent from the governor for
Mr. Overweg during his stay at this place, while I procured a
horseman, with whom, together with Ibrahim, our shoush, and
one of the camel-drivers, I was ready for starting an hour before
noon ; for the heat of the sun was not much to be dreaded at
this season of the year. Overweg accompanied me as far as
Kasr Doga.*
Winding along narrow ravines, after about one mile's march
we passed, on an eminence to our right, another specimen of
large pilasters with an impost, and ruins of buildings of large
square stones close by. After much winding, we cleared the
narrow channel ascending the hills, which were covered with
halfa ; but here too there was not a single tree to be seen, and
my guide says that there were no olive-trees in the Tarhona ex
cept in Mata, a place situated between Mount Bu-tauwil and
Kasr Jefara, from which the tribe Mata derives its name. I have
noticed before, as remarkable, the three olive-trees near Bu-tau-
* The principal tribes living in the district Tarhona are the Hhamadat, the
Drahib, Welad Bu-Sid, Welad Bu-M'arah, Marghana, Welad 'Ali, W. Yusuf, Me-
gaigerah, Firjan, W. Mehada, W. Bu-Sellem, Na'aje, Mata, Khwarish, Gerakta, Bu-
Saba, Shefatra, Welad Hamed, Erhaimiyeh

80

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

wil. It was about one o'clock in the afternoon when we came in
sight of the Roman monument called Kasr Doga, and its brown

color almost induced us to conclude that it was of brick ; but
on approaching nearer, we found that it was built of hewn stone.
We were astonished at the grand dimensions of the monument,
as it appeared evident that it was originally a mere sepulchre,
though in after times blocked up by the Arabs, and converted
into a castle.
The front of the monument faces the south with ten degrees
of deviation toward the west. The whole body of the building,
rising upon a base of three steps, measures 47 ft. 6 in. in length,
and 31 ft. 4 in. in breadth. The entrance or portal, equidistant
from both corners, was 12 ft. 6 in. wide; but it has been entire
ly blocked up with hewn stone, so that it is now impossible to
get into the interior of the monument without great labor, and
only a glimpse can be obtained of a kind of entrance-hall of
small dimensions. Of the interior arrangement, therefore, noth
ing meets the view ; but on the top of the solid mass of build
ing, rising to a height of 28 ft. 10 in., the ground-plan of the
third story, which has been demolished to obtain materials for

ANCIENT RUINS. gl
closing the entrance, is distinctly visible. Here the vestibule
measures 10 ft. 10 in., the wall of the interior chamber or cell
being adorned with two columns, which are no less than 3 ft.
10 in. apart : the inner room itself measures 22 ft. 4 in. in length
within the walls. The monument, although more massive than
beautiful, is a fair proof of the wealth of this district in ancient
times. Opposite to it, on a limestone hill of considerable eleva
tion, is another specimen of the cromlech kind in good preserva
tion, besides other ruins. In the hollow at the S.E. side of the
sepulchre there are six deep and spacious wells sunk in the rock.
Here my companion left me, and I continued my route alone,
passing through a well-cultivated tract, till I reached an encamp
ment of the Welad Bu-Sellem, where we pitched our tent. Here
I met a cousin of Haj 'Abd el Hadi el Merayet, who had once
been master of half the Tarhona district, but was made prisoner
by the Turks, and sent to Constantinople. This man also re
appeared on the stage last year.
Wednesday, February 20th. We set out early in the morn
ing, the country continuing flat as far as the chapel of Sidi 'Ali
ben Salah, which, standing on a hill, is a conspicuous object for
many miles round. A short distance from this chapel I ob
served the ruins of a castle built of large square stones taken
from older buildings ; it measures 42 feet in every direction, and
exhibits a few bad but curious sculptures, among others an ass
in rehef. Around are the ruins of a small village, and flat stones
•of immense size, similar in workmanship to those described
above, but no upright pillars.
Beyond the chapel of the saint the country became more hilly,
and after some time we entered a ravine joining the Wadi Ge-
daera, which exhibited the remains of three broad and firmly-
constructed dikes, crossing the ravine at the distance of about
800 yards from each other. They were built of small stones,
and were evidently intended to exclude the water from the lower
part of the valley. Another 800 yards below the innermost
dike the ravine widens out into a fine verdant hollow, stretch
ing from west to east, and provided with several wells. On a
detached hill rising in the midst of this basin is situated the
Vol. L— F

82

TRAVELS LN AFRICA.

Kasr Dawan, built partly of older materials of hewn stone, part
ly of small stones, and probably of the same age as the dikes.
The whole floor of the basin is strewn with ruins ; and a con
siderable village seems to have extended round the castle : where
the ground was free from stones, it was covered with ranuncu
luses. Altogether, this spot was interesting — the stronghold of
a chieftain who appears to have had energy and foresight, but
whose deeds are left without a record.
As soon as we emerged from this ravine the whole character
of the country changed, and through a pleasant valley we en
tered a wider plain, bordered in the distance by a high range of
mountains, among which the Jebel Msid, crowned with a zawiya
or convent, is distinguished by its height and its form. It is
rather remarkable, and of the highest interest as regards the
ancient history of the civilization of these regions, that the two
most conspicuous mountains bordering Tarhona, one on the west,
the other on the east side, should bear the same name, and a
name which bears evident testimony to their having been places
of worship in ancient times. Both of them have grandeur of
form ; but the western one is more regularly dome-shaped.
The fine pasturage which this plain affords to the cows of the
Mehaedi enabled their masters to regale us with fine fresh sour
milk, which interrupted our march very pleasantly. On the
site of an ancient village near the mar
gin of a small torrent, I found the op
posite curious specimens of upright
pilasters, together with the impost, re
markable for their height as well as
for the rough sculpture of a dog, or
some other animal, which is seen on the
higher part of one of them. About
700 yards beyond the torrent called
Ksaea, we had on our right a large
building of hewn stone about 140 yards
square, besides six pairs of pilasters
together with their imposts ; but some
of them are lying at present on the

MESELLATA. 83
ground. These structures could never have been intended as
doors or passages, for the space between the upright stones is
so narrow that a man of ordinary size could hardly squeeze
his way through them. Other ruins are on the left.
Here we entered the mountain chain which forms the natural
boundary between the district of Tarhona and that of Mesellata,
and at the present time separates scenes of nomadic life from
fixed settlements. The highest part of the chain round the
Jebel Msid remained on our left, while the heights on the right
decreased in elevation. The chain has little breadth ; and we
had hardly reached its crest when the country that presented
itself to our view had quite a different appearance from that just
left behind, presenting, among other objects, the castle of Mesel
lata, surrounded by an olive-grove. In this spot, ancient sites
and modern villages with stone houses are intermixed, while
thick olive-groves enliven the whole, and constitute the wealth
of the inhabitants.
Having passed a village called Fatir, lying in a ravine that
runs S.W., we soon descried, in a hollow at the southern foot
of the Kasr S'aade (a small ancient fortress), the first olive-
plantation and the first orchards belonging to Mesellata. From
this place onward they succeed each other at short intervals.
Having passed a small eminence, with a fine olive-grove in the
hollow at its foot, we entered the beautiful and well-inhabited
plain of Mesellata. Here a great deal of industry was evinced
by the planting of young cuttings between the venerable old
olive-trees, or ghurs Faraon as the Arabs call them. My shoush
affirmed that the inhabitants of Mesellata are the most industri
ous and diligent people in the whole regency, taking good care
of their plantations, and watering them whenever they need it.
The whole country has here a different character from that of
Tarhona, the naked calcareous rock protruding every where, while
in Tarhona the plains generally consist of clayey soil. This
district is only about one thousand feet above the sea, while the
average height of the Jebel (Yefren) and the Ghurian is about
two thousand feet. Here the olives had been collected a month
ago ; in the former districts they remained still on the tree.

84 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Cheered by the spectacle of life and industry around us, we
continued our pleasant march, and having crossed an open space
of rough rocky ground filled with cisterns, we reached the castle
of Mesellata, an edifice of little merit, built with square stones
from old ruins, and lying at the northern end of the village Ku-
sabat, which properly means "the Castles." While my people
were pitching my tent behind the castle, on the only spot which
would allow of the pegs being driven into the ground, I went to
pay a visit to Khalil Agha, who resided in the castle ; but I found
it to be so desolate and comfortless that I left it immediately,
taking with me the sheikh Mes'aud and a shoush named Ibra
him Tubbat, in order to view the Kal'a or Gell'ah, a very con
spicuous object, visible even from the sea. Keeping along the
western side of the village, which consists of from 300 to 400
cottages* built of stone, and occupies a gentle slope toward the
south, the highest point of which, near the mosque, is 1250feetf
above the level of the sea, we reached a pleasant little hollow
adorned with gardens, which, being fenced with hedges of the
Indian fig-tree, rendered the spot extremely picturesque. From
hence we ascended the naked calcareous eminence, from the top
of which the fortress overlooks a great extent of country. Going
round its demolished walls from east to west, I was able to de
scry and to take the bearings of a great number of villages be
longing to the district of Mesellata, some of them peeping out
of olive-groves, others distinguishable only by the smoke rising
up from them.
The fortress itself is evidently a work not of Mohammedans,
but of Europeans, and was most probably constructed by the
Spaniards in the first half of the 16th century. It is built in
the form of a triangle, one side of which, running N.W. and
S.E., measures about 108 yards ; another, running E.N.E. and
W.S.W., measures 78£ yards ; and the third, S. 5 W. and N. 5
E., 106£ yards. At the corner between the first and the second
* The quarter of the village nearest to the castle is principally inhabited t>y
Jews. t The elevation of this place was determined by Lieutenant (now Rear Admi
ral) Smyth in 1819.

MESELLATA. 85
wall is a polygonal bastion ; between the second and third a
round bastion ; and a small one also between the third and the
first wall. Descending from the fortress, I went with Mes'aud
through the village, the dwellings of which are built in a much
better style than is usual in the regency. It is also stated
that, in comparison with the rest of the country, its inhabitants
enjoy some degree of wealth, and that the market is well sup
plied. Thursday, February 21st. I rose at an early hour in order
to continue my route, and entered a very pleasant country, ren
dered more agreeable in appearance by the fineness of the morn
ing. Winding along through hilly slopes covered with luxuri
ant corn-fields and wide-spreading olive-trees, we reached at
half past eight o'clock an interesting group of ruins consisting
of immense blocks, and among them one like the flat quadran
gular stones represented above, but having on its surface, be
sides the little channel, a large hole ; also a block of extraordi
nary dimensions, representing a double altar of the curious mass
ive sort described above. Close to these remarkable ruins, in
a fine corn-field, is a small castle, situated upon a natural base
of rock, in which subterranean vaults have been excavated in a
very regular way. Toward the south, at the distance of about
half an hour's march, the large castle of Amamre rises into view.
We then reached the fine plantation of Rumiyeh, while on a
hill to the left lie other scattered ruins.
We met a good many people going to the Thursday market
at Ktisabat. Farther on, near another little grove, we found a
small encampment of the Jehawat, a tribe which claims the pos
session of this whole district. We then passed a castle irregu
larly built of large square stones about twelve yards square.
Having crossed a hollow, we obtained a good view over the
country, in which the "Merkeb S'aid n 'Ali" (the most advanced
spur of this chain toward the coast) formed a distinguished
point, while we had already reached the last low breaks of the
mountain country toward the east. Meanwhile, the greater di
mensions of the ruins remind the traveler that he is approach
ing the famous remains of Leptis. I found here, a little to the

86

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

right of our path, near a Bedwin encampment, the ruins of a
temple of large proportions, called Sanem ben Hamedan, and
of rather curious arrangement, the front, which faces the north,
and recedes several feet from the side-walls, being formed by
double ranges of enormous stones standing upright — they can
scarcely be called pilasters — while the inner part is ornamented
with columns of the Ionic order. The whole building is about
40 paces long and 36 broad, but the architectural merit of its
details is not sufficient to repay the trouble of exact measure
ments. About a thousand yards farther on, to the east, are the
ruins of another still larger monument, measuring about 77
paces in every direction, and called by the Arabs Kasr Kerker.
It has several compartments in the interior, three chambers ly
ing opposite to the entrance, and two other larger ones on the
east side. Nearly in the middle of the whole building there is
a large square stone like those mentioned above, but having on
one of its narrow sides a curious sculpture in relief.

The camels having been allowed to go on, I hastened after
them with my shoush as fast as my donkey could trot, and
passed several sites of ancient villages or castles, and numerous
fine hollows with luxuriant olive-trees. I scarcely ever remem
ber to have seen such beautiful trees. The country continues
undulating, with fertile hollows or depressions. We reached
the camels at Wadi Lebda, which I found perfectly dry.
Close to our left we had cultivated ground and ruins. Near
the sea-shore, the spacious and pleasant site of Leptis spread
out on the meadow land, while a little farther on rose a small
ridge, on the top of which is situated the village Khurbet Ham
mam. After we had passed a pleasant little hollow, the plain
became for a while overgrown with thick clusters of bushes;
but on reaching the plantation of Swail, an almost uninterrupt-

THE CINYPS. 87
ed line of villages stretched along the sahel (sea-shore) amid
corn-fields and groves of olive and date-trees. According to
my shoush, a great deal of corn is cultivated also in the valleys
behind this plain, and numerous well-trodden paths were seen
leading from the sahel into the hilly country on its southern
side. After plentiful rains, this part of the plain is inundated
by the waters of the Wadi Bondari, which is called after the
general name of the low range bordering the plain. Having
passed several little villages of the sahel, and paid my due trib
ute of veneration to " El Dekhaele" (the oldest and tallest palm-
tree in the whole district), a little before five o'clock in the aft
ernoon I reached the village called Zawiya Ferjani, where we
pitched our tent in the stubble-field near a date-grove, and rest
ed from our pleasant day's march, experiencing hospitable treat
ment from our hosts.*
The country hereabout is regarded as tolerably healthy, but
'Abd e' Sa'ade, a village a little further eastward, has suffered
greatly from malignant fevers, which are attributed to the un-
vvholesomeness of the waters of the Wadi K'aam, as I noticed
on my former journey ;f hence the population has become rath
er thin, and industry has declined. At some distance from the
wadi, cultivation ceases entirely, and, instead of groves and gar
dens, a wide and wild field of disorder and destruction meets
the eye. This rivulet, wliich is identical with the Cinyps, was
in great vogue with the ancients, who knew how to control
and regulate its occasional impetuosity. Immense walls, which
they constructed as barriers against destructive inundations,
remain to testify to their activity and energy. Of these, one
group, forming a whole system of dikes, some transverse, some
built in the form of a semicircle, is seen near the spot, where a
* The inhabitants of the Sahel in general, and those of Zh'ten and Masrata in
particular, are more attached to the Turks than almost any other tribe of the
regency ; they would rather be subjected to a foreign power than suffer oppres
sion from their own brethren the Gedadefa and other tribes in the valleys of the
interior. Hence, in the revolution in 1855, they remained faithful to the Turks ;
and a good many of them were killed in the first battle between the Turks and
the rebel chief Ghdma.
t Wanderings along the- Coasts of the Mediterranean, vol.i., p. 317..

88 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
beautiful subterranean aqueduct, which supplied Leptis, issues
from the wadi ; another enormous wall, 650 yards long, and
from 4 to 4-jL yards thick, stands about three quarters of a mile
higher up the valley. But with the details of all these works,
though to me they appeared so interesting that I measured them
with tolerable exactness, I will not detain the reader, but shall
hasten to carry him back to Tripoli.
Having startedin the afternoon from the mouth of the wadi,
I re-entered Zawiya 'Abd el Ferjani from the rear ; but, finding
that my people had gone on to Leptis, I followed them, after a
little delay, by the way of Wadi Stik, where, every Thursday,
a market is held (" Suk el khamis," a name applied by Cap
tain, now Rear Admiral, Smyth to the neighboring village), and
then over the open meadow-plain, having the blue sea on my
right, and came up with my people just as they were about to
pitch my tent at the foot of an enormous staircase leading to
some undefined monument in the eastern part of the ancient city
of Leptis.
February 23d. During the forenoon I was busily employed
in a second investigation of some of the ruins of Leptis, which
have been so well described and illustrated by Admiral Smyth,
Near the small creek called Mirsa Legatah, and a little east of
the chapel of the Merabet ben Sheha, a small castle has been
lately built by the Turks, about a hundred paces square. It
has quite a handsome look with its pinnacles and small bastions.
Leaving the site of this celebrated city, we proceeded, early
in the afternoon, through a diversified hilly country, till we
reached the high hill or mount of Merkeb* S'aid-n-'Ali, which is
' visible from a great distance. This I ascended in order to cor
rect some of my positions, particularly that of el Gell'ah in Me
sellata, but found the wind too violent. Passing an undulating
country, overgrown with the freshest green, and affording am
ple pastures to the herds of numerous Arab encampments, I
pitched my tent near a small dowar of the Beni Jehem,f who
treated us hospitably with sour milk and bazin.
* Merkeb means here "the high seat."
t This tribe does not seem habitually to frequent this district, the indigenous

LEPTIS.— KHOMS. 89
February 24th. The country continued varied, hill and dale
succeeding each other ; but beyond Kasr Alahum (an irregular
building of a late age), it became more rough and difficult, es
pecially near the steep descent called Negasi. Soon after this
we descended into the plain, not far from the sea-shore, where
we crossed several flat valleys. From the Wadi Bti Jefara,*
where a small caravan going from Zliten to the town overtook
us, a monotonous plain, called Gwaea mt'a Gummata, extends
to the very foot of the slope of Mesellata. Having traversed
the desolate zone called El Mita mt'a Teruggurt, whence may
be descried the " uglah" near the shore, the residence of my
old friend the sheikh Khalifa bu-Ruffa, we reached the broad
and rock-bound valley Teruggurt itself, probably the most per
fect wadi which this part of the coast exhibits. To my great
satisfaction, I met Overweg at the Kasr Jefara.
K. Jefara is also called Karabvili, from the name of a Mam-
luk who, in the time of Yusuf Basha, built here a sort of con
vent or chapel. It is rather a "funduk," or caravanserai, than
a " kasr," or castle, and the gates are always left open ; but its
situation is important, and it is the residence of a judge or kaid.
A battle between Ghoma and the Turks was fought in 1855 at
no great distance from it. The country around is a monoto
nous plain, enlivened only by three small clusters of palm-trees
toward the north. The following morning we proceeded, and
encamped on the eastern side of Wadi Rami. On Tuesday we
returned to Tripoli, well satisfied with our little excursion, and
convinced that the Regency of Tripoli is not by any means so
poor and miserable as it is generally believed to be.
name of which is Khoms. The principal tribes of this stock named to me were
as follows, viz., the Sambara, the Shuwaig, Ziadat, Legata, Shekhatra, Driiga,
Argiib, Jehawat, and Swaid.
* Smyth's Benzbarah, which he seems to have confounded in some degree
with Wadi Teruggurt.

90 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

CHAPTER IV.
DEPARTUKE FOR THE INTERIOE.  ARRIVAL AT MIZDA. — RE
MAINS OF A CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
Meanwhile the instruments provided by government had
arrived, and proved in general well adapted for their purposes.*
But the tents and arms had not yet reached us, and I thought
it. better to provide a strong, spacious, and low tent, which, even
after the government tents arrived, did not prove superfluous,
although perhaps rather too heavy. All tents intended for
travelers in hot climates should be well lined and not too high.
Those which we received were quite unfit for the country
whither we were going, and while they were so light that they
could hardly withstand a strong blast of wind, they scarcely
excluded the sun, particularly after 'a little wear and tear. All
the tents ought also to have top-ropes, which can alone secure
them in a tornado such as are common in those climates. Mr.
Richardson was soon obliged to provide himself with another
tent, so that in the course of our journey we had all together
five tents, but generally pitched only two, or, where we en
camped for a greater length of time, four.
Mr. Overweg and I sustained a heavy loss in the secession
of our black servant Ibrahim, who might have proved of great
service to us in the interior, as he spoke the Bornu and Bagrim-
ma languages, and had himself wandered about a good deal in
* Unfortunately, the minimum and maximum thermometers were so deranged
that Mr. Overweg was unable to repair them. We had no barometer, and tic
only aneroid barometer with which we had been provided, and which had been
under the care of my companion, was damaged on our first excursion, so that
nothing was left to us but to find the elevation of places by the boiling-point of
water. I will here mention, for the use of future travelers, that I always wore
not only my azimuth, but even my chronometer in my belt, and found this an ex
cellent precaution against accidents of anv kind.

TTIE DEPARTURE. 91
thcfse little-known districts between Mandara and Bagirmi.
But he declared that he could not remain in our service along
with our servant Mohammed ben Belal, the son of a liberated
Gober slave, who was a very clever, but unscrupulous and
haughty fellow, and bore the character of a libertine. But an
other cause of detention was the protest of his wives, who would
not allow him to go unless he divorced them. We tried every
means of settling the matter, but without success ; so that we
had only two servants, one of whom, Mohammed e' Zintani, the
lad I have mentioned before, would certainly not go farther than
Fezzan. At length all was ready for our outset except the boat, which
caused Mr. Richardson a great deal of trouble, as it had been
divided in Malta into two pieces instead of four. I proposed
that we should pitch our tents for some days at 'Ain Zara, in
order that we might be duly seasoned for our long journey. I
would advise every traveler who would calculate upon all the
means of insuring success to adopt a similar course. A few
days' stay in his tent will familiarize him with the little store
which is henceforward to form his principal, if not his only re
source, and will enable him to bear the heat of the sun with
ease. It was late in the afternoon of the 24th of March, 1850, when
Overweg and I, seated in solemn state upon our camels, left the
town with our train, preceded by the consul, Mr. Crowe, in his
carriage, by Mr. Reade, and by Mr. Dickson and his family, of
whom we took a hearty leave under the olive-trees near Kasr
el Haeni. We then continued our route, and in fine moonlight
pitched our tent on the border of 'Ain Zara.
This locality takes its name from a broad swampy hollow or
depression to the south, thickly overgrown with reeds and rush
es. At present no one lives in it ; the wells are filled up with
earth, and the date-trees, cared for by nobody, are partly over
whelmed by the sand, which has accumulated in large mounds.
Still it is an attractive spot, having just a little of cultivation
and a little of sandy waste. A few olive-trees spread their
fresh cool shade over a green meadow, forming a very pleasant

92 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
resting-place. It was at this very spot that, in August, 1855,
on my joyful return, I again met Mr. Reade, the vice-consul, and
passed a night there.
Here we remained encamped till Friday, the 29th. In the
afternoon of the 27th, Mr. Frederick Warrington, who wished, to
escort us for, a few days, came out, accompanied by the Amer
ican consul, Mr. Gaines, and brought us the satisfactory news
that on the following Friday Mr. Richardson would move from
the town, and that we should meet him at Mejenin. I and my
countryman required eight camels for our luggage, besides the
two which we rode ourselves, and which were our own. 1
should have preferred having a donkey for myself, as it would
have enabled me to go with ease wherever I liked ; but in Trip
oli there are no donkeys strong enough for such a journey, and
a horse, including the carriage of barley and water for him, wa6
too expensive for the means then placed at my disposal. But
I had been so fortunate as to procure an excellent Arab camel,
of the renowned breed of the Bu-Saef, which was my faithful
companion as far as Ktikawa ; and Mr. Warrington had made
me a present of a handsome Ghad"amsi saddle or basur, with
pillows, and a Stambuli carpet, so that I was comfortably
mounted. Friday, March 29th. After a great deal of trouble (the camel-
drivers and our men being as yet unaccustomed to our unwieldy
luggage), we at length succeeded in making a start. After
leaving the olive-trees and the little palm-grove of 'Ain Zara,
we very soon entered deep sand-hills, which sheltered us from
the strong wind ; and after more than two hours we came upon
pasture-grounds, which furnished our camels with a variety of
herbs and graminea?, such as the sh'ade, the shedide, and vari
ous others unknown to me. The progress of an Arab caravan
(where the camels march each after its own inclination, straying
to the right and to the left, nipping here a straw, and there
browsing on a bush) must be rather slow in districts where tie
stubborn animal finds abundance of food. This way of pro
ceeding is extremely tedious and fatiguing to the rider, and to
obviate it the Tawarek, the Teb, and the people in the interior |

MEJENIN. 93
fasten all the camels one behind the other. Owing to our slow
progress, the sun was almost setting when we overtook Mr.
Warrington, who had pitched his tent on a fine pasture-ground
near Bir Sbaea. The last hour and a half's ride from the well
Jenawa lay along well-cultivated and flourishing corn-fields ex
tending along the narrow wadi of Mejenin,* and intermingled
with a rich profusion of- flowers, principally the beautiful blue
" khobbes." Saturday, March SOth. Having indulged for some hours in
the quiet enjoyment of a fine morning and an open, green coun
try, I went with the shoush to look after Mr. Richardson's par
ty. After an hour's ride through luxuriant corn-fields, and pas
ture-grounds enlivened by the horses of the Turkish cavalry, we
found Mukni, the sailor, and all Mr. Richardson's baggage ; but
he himself had not yet come up. I could not persuade the peo
ple to remove our encampment, so I returned, after having paid
a visit to the binbasha of the cavalry, who had been stationed
here for the last seventeen years. He had contrived to procure
, himself a cool retreat from the sultry hours by forming a reg-
gular tank, about two feet and a half square, in the midst of his
,tent, and keeping it always full of water.
In the afternoon I made a long excursion with my Zintani
through the plain, beyond the chapel of Sidi Bargub, in order to
buy a sheep ; but, though the flocks were numerous, none of
the shepherds would sell, as pasturage was abundant, and every
ya.e had what he wanted. In 1846, when I first visited the re
gency, the people were starving, and selling their camels and
svery thing they possessed to procure food.
Sunday, March Slst. Foggy weather indicated that rain was
approaching ; and just in time Mr. Richardson with his party
irrived, and pitched his enormous lazaretto tent opposite our
ittle encampment. Mr. Reade also had come from the town, in
)rder to settle, if possible, the misunderstanding with our serv
ant Mohammed, and see us off. It is an agreeable duty for
ne to acknowledge the many services which this gentleman
tendered us during our stay in Tripoli. Our whole party was
* The place probably derives its name from the Bata tuberculata, " Mejnineh."

94 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
detained here the following day by the heavy rains ; and Over
weg and I were happy to get hold of the black servant of the
ferocious pseudo-shei if mentioned by Mr. Richardson, when that
troublesome fellow was sent back to town, as we were much in
want of another servant.
April 2d. We fairly set out on our expedition. The coun
try became more diversified as we approached the defile formed
by the Bates and Smaera, two advanced posts of the mountain
chain, while the^ varied forms of the latter, in high cones and
deep, abrupt valleys, formed an interesting background. But
the country hereabouts is cultivated with less care than Wadi
Mejenin ; and the ground, being more stony, presents, of course,
more obstacles than the latter, while both districts are inhabit
ed by the same tribes, viz., the Urgaat and the Akara. Even
here, however, in the circle formed by the surrounding heights,
was a fine extent of plain covered with corn-fields. Just at
the entrance of the pass there is a well, where the road divides;
and, after a little consultation, we took the western branch, as
our people feared that on the eastern we should not find water
before night. Changing, therefore, our direction, we seemed
a while to keep off entirely from the mountain range till we
reached the wide but very rugged and rocky Wadi Haera, which
it was our object to reach at this spot, in order to fill our water-
skins from the pools formed by the rains. The wadi, indeed,
looked as if it sometimes bore in its floods a powerful body of
water ; and a considerable dike had been constructed in the
early times of the Arabs, extending for two hundred paces from j
the wadi eastward ; but it has fallen to ruin, and the path leads
now through the breach.
Resuming our march, after a good deal of delay, we turned
sharp off toward the mountains, and at an early hour encamped
on a very pleasant spot adorned with numerous sidr-trees
[Rhamnus Nabeca); but instead of enjoying it in quiet, Over
weg and I felt disposed to direct our steps toward a hill called
Fulije, about half an hour's walk eastward, which promised to
be a convenient point for obtaining correct angles of the prom
inent features of the chain, and proved to be so in reality.

THE BOAT CROSSES THE DEFILE. 95
Having executed this task, therefore, we returned to our com
panions well satisfied, and spent the evening in the comfortable
tent of Mr. Warrington. We had now reached the slope of the
chain, where some of our people supposed that the boat would
cause difficulties ; but it could not well do so after being cut
into quarters, which fitted to the sides of the camels rather bet
ter than the large quadrangular boxes. The most troublesome
parts were the long oars and poles, which caused the camel much
exhaustion and fatigue by constantly swaying backward and
forward. The ground, soon after we had started the next morning, be
came stony, and, at three miles distance, very rugged and inter
sected by a number of dry watercourses. The landscape was
enlivened not only by our own caravan, composed of so many
heterogeneous elements, but also by some other parties who hap
pened to be coming down the slope : first, the Kaimakam of the
Jebel, then a slave caravan, consisting of about sixty of these
poor creatures, of whom the younger, at least, seemed to take a
cheerful interest in the varied features of the country. The
Wadi Bu Ghelan, where the ascent commences, is here and
there adorned with clusters of date-trees. In about an hour the
first camels of our party reached the terrace of Beni 'Abbas ; and
till the whole had accomplished the ascent, I had leisure to dis
mount from my tractable Bu-saefi, and to sit down quietly un
der a fine olive-tree near the chapel of the Merabet Sames,
watching them as they came up one by one, and cheered by the
conviction that the expedition was at length in full train. The
country was here hilly, and the path often very narrow and
deeply cut in the marly soil. Further on, Overweg and I, to-
, gether with our shoush, turned off a little to the right from the
.great caravan-road, and, passing through fine corn-fields inter-
. spersed with flowers of different kinds, reached the village Gwa,-
,sem, lying at a short distance from the eastern foot of Mount
jTekut, where we were treated with sour milk by a friend of our
.companions. When we had overtaken our caravan, I found
itime to pay a visit to the Roman sepulchre,* and ascertained
t< * See above, p. 61.

96 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
that the base measured 24 ft. in every direction, the principal
body of the monument, containing the sepulchral chamber* hav
ing fallen in entirely. From this point we began to ascend the
second terrace, and reached the level of the plateau at two
o'clock in the afternoon. The country had now a much more
interesting appearance than when I was here two months he
fore, being at present all covered with green corn. Having
started in the direction of the castle, we descended a little before
reaching it, along the shelving ground toward Wadi Rummana,
and encamped on the spot where the troops usually bivouac.
Here- we remained the following day, when, in order to settle
formally the demands of our camel-drivers, we had all our things
accurately weighed by the officials of the castle. The little
market did not grow busy till ten o'clock. The chief articles
for sale were three head of cattle, one camel, some sheep and
goats, a few water-skins, some barley, a few eggs, and sandals;
but at noon it was moderately thronged. In the afternoon we
paid a visit to several subterranean dwellings, but were disap
pointed in not getting access into an entirely new structure of
this kind, formed of a much harder sort of clay. Our cheerful
friend Mr. Warrington, in order to treat our party before he sep
arated from it for a length of time which nobody could foresee, j
got an immense bowl of kuskus prepared, seasoned in the most 1
savory manner ; and our whole party long indulged in the re
membrance of this delicate dish as a luxury beyond reach. The
site of our encampment was most pleasant : below us the wadi,
rich with varied vegetation ; while toward the north the Tekut,
with its regularly-shaped crater towering proudly over the lower
eminences around, formed a most interesting object.
Friday, April 5th. Though busy at an early hour, we did
not get off till late, for many things were still to be settled hem
We separated from Mr. Warrington ; and of the three travelers
I was the only one whom he was ever to see again.
Our path was at first very winding, as we had to turn round
the deep indentation of the Wadi Rummana, after which it took
a straighter course, passing through several villages, with their
respective olive-groves, till we reached Bu Sriyan, where the

KULETJA.— GHURIA'N. 97
cultivation of the olive-tree ceased entirely for some distance,
and the country became more open. Here we made another
considerable deviation from our southerly direction, and follow
ed a wide valley with much cultivated ground. Having reach
ed the village Semsa, situated upon an eminence to our right,
we turned off eastward into a very pleasant ravine with an olive-
grove, and then began the steep ascent toward the height Ku-
leba,* which forms the passage over this southern crest of the
plateau. While the camels, in long rows, moved slowly on
ward, with their heavy loads, on the narrow and steep rocky
path, I, allowing my camel to follow the rest, ascended directly
to the village, which is situated round the eastern slope, and is
still tolerably well inhabited, although many a house has fallen
to ruin; for it has a considerable extent of territory, and, owing
to its situation as the southernmost point of Ghurian, the inhab
itants are the natural carriers and agents between the northern
districts and the desert. On the highest crest, commanding the
village, there was formerly a castle, but it has been destroyed by
the Turks.
Having descended a little into the barren valley, we encamp
ed, at two o'clock in the afternoon, on the slope of the western
hills, near the last scanty olive-trees, and not far from the well,
from which we intended to take a sufficient supply of water to
last us till we reached Mizda. While our people, therefore,
: were busy watering the camels and filling our water-skins, Over
weg and I, accompanied by two of the inhabitants of the village
who had followed us, ascended a conspicuous mount, Jebel To-
' eshe, the highest in the neighborhood, on the top of which a vil-
' lage is said to have existed in former times. We took several
angles ; but there is no very high point about Mizda which could
serve as a landmark in that direction.
Saturday, April 6th. The country through which we were
8 marching, along irregular valleys, mostly of limestone forma
tion, exhibited scattered patches of corn for about the first three
]»i * " Kuleba'* or "keliiba" is a term of frequent occurrence in these districts for
a high mountain-top. In some respects it seems to be identical with the term
*'" thniye," used in other districts.
>' Vol. I.— G

98 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
miles, after which almost every sign of cultivation suddenly
ceased, and the "Twel el Khamer," stretching from N.W. to
S.E., about two miles distant on the right, formed, as it were,
the northern boundary of the naked soil. On its slope a few
trees of the kind called raduk by the Arabs were seen from the
distance. We then entered desolate stony valleys, famous for
the bloody skirmishes which are said to have once taken place
there between the Urfilla and the Welad Bu Sef, in the time of
'Abd el Jelil. Refreshing, therefore, was the aspect of Wadi
Ranne, which, extending from E. to S.W., was overgrown with
green herbage, and had two wells.
A little beyond, near the hill, or rather slope called Sh'ahet
el Kadim, the latter part of which name seems, indeed, to have
some reference to antiquity, we found the first Roman milestone,
with the inscription now effaced ; but farther on, Mr. Overweg,
who went on foot and was far behind the main body of our cara
van, succeeded in discovering some milestones with inscriptions,
which he regretted very much not being able to show to me.
Hereabouts commences the region of the batum-tree, which, with
the fresh green of its foliage, contributes a good deal to enliven
and adorn some favored spots of this sterile, gravelly tract. To
the left of our path were some remarkable basaltic cones, start
ing up from the calcareous ridge. The ground was strewn with
numerous flint-stones. About four o'clock P.M. I went to look
at a curious quadrangular and regularly-hewn stone, three feet
in breadth and length, but only eight inches thick, which was
standing upright at some distance from the caravan. It was
evidently meant to face the west, but no trace of an inscription
was to be seen. About a mile farther on we encamped at the
foot of the western chain, which rose to a height of about 300
feet, and formed a narrow cleft with the eastern chain, which at
this point closes upon it. In this corner (which collects the
humidity of two valleys), besides several battim-trees, a little
corn had been sown. Panthers are said to be numerous in this
region. The next day we directed our march toward the pass, cross
ing the chy teds of several small torrents, and a broader chan-

MIZDA. 99
nel bordered by plenty of battim-trees. After an hour's march
we had reached the summit of the pass, which now began to
widen, the heights receding on each side, and a more distant
range bounding the view. We found in the holes of the rocky
bottom of Wadi Mezummita, which we crossed about half past
eight, several pools of rain-water, affording us a most refreshing
drink ; but it was quite an extra treat, owing to recent heavy
rains which had fallen here, for in general the traveler can not
rely on finding water in this place. The ground becoming very
stony and rugged, our progress was excessively slow — not above
half an English geographical mile in seventeen minutes. The
hills on our right displayed to the view regular layers of sand
stone. Another long defile followed, which at length brought
us to a plain called Wadi Lilla, encompassed by hills, and of
fering several traces of former cultivation, while other traces,
farther' on, bore testimony to the industry of the Romans. A
small herd of goats, and the barking of a dog, showed that even
at present the country is not wholly deserted. In our imme
diate neighborhood it even became more than usually enlivened
by the passage of a slave-caravan, with twenty-five camels and
about sixty slaves, mostly females.
After having passed a small defile, we at length emerged into
the northwest branch of the valley of Mizda, called here Wadi
Ude-Sherab, the channel of which is lined with a considerable
number of battim-trees. Crossing the stony bottom of this plain,
after a stretch of three miles more we reached the western end
cf the oasis of Mizda, which, though my fancy had given it a
greater extent, filled me with joy at the sight of the fine fields
of barley, now approaching maturity — the crop, owing to the
regular irrigation, being remarkably uniform — while the grove
of date-trees encompassed the whole picture with a striking and
interesting frame. So we proceeded, passing between the two
entirely-separated quarters, or villages, distinguished as the up
per, "el fok," and the lower, "el Utah," and encamped on the
sandy open space a little beyond the lower village, near a well
which formerly had irrigated a garden. People going to Tripoli
encamp at the other end of the oasis, as was done by a caravan

100 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of Ghadamsi people with slaves from Fezzan, on the following
day. Mizda, most probably identical with the eastern " Musti kome"
of Ptolemy, appears to have been an ancient settlement of the
indigenous inhabitants of North Africa, the Berbers, and more
particularly of a family or tribe of them called " Kuntarar," who
even at present, though greatly intermixed with Arabs, have
not entirely forgotten their Berber idiom. The oasis lies in the
upper part of Wadi Sofejin, or rather a branch of it, stretching
out from S.W. to N.E., which has in some parts a great breadth,
The natural advantage, or productive principle, of the locality
seems to lie in the circumstance that the humidity carried down
by the Wadi Sherab is here arrested by a hill, and absorbed hy
the clayey soil. This hill is of a lengthened form, and consists
entirely of gypsum. From its summit, which affords the best
prospect of the whole locality, I made a view of the western vil
lage ; while from a more elevated height farther west, called
Madum, I made the accompanying sketch of the whole locality.
The wells have little depth, and the water is drawn to the
surface by means of oxen ; but there being at present only three
specimens of this precious animal in the place, the wells are far
from being made use of to the extent which is practicable and
has been once practiced, as may be concluded from the pillars
which extend to a considerable distance on the plain. The town,
as I said, consists of two distinct quarters or villages, of which
the western one, situated at the eastern foot of the hill, is hy
far the larger ; it is built exactly in the character of the ksur
of the Algerian Sahara, with high round towers decreasing a lit
tle in width toward the upper part, and furnished with several
rows of loop-holes. The wall, purposely built with a great many
salient and retiring angles, is in a state of decay, and many of
the houses are in ruins ; but the village can still boast a hund
red full-grown men able to bear arms.- The chief of this village
always resides in it, while that of the other generally lives at
some distance under tents. The circumference of the village,
together with the palm-grove attached to its eastern side, and
consisting of about 200 trees, is 2260 paces.

MIZDA.

103

Wm9

The lower or southeastern village, the circumference of which
is 600 paces, is separated from the former by an interval of
about 400 paces, and has at present no palm-grove, all the gar
dens having been destroyed or ruined by neglect, and only
twenty or thirty palm-trees now remaining scattered about the
place. About 100 paces farther down the declivity of the val
ley is a group of three small gardens surrounded by a wall, but
in bad condition ; and at about the same distance beyond, an
other in the same state. The only advantage peculiar to this
quarter is that of a large " zawiya," the principal articles in the
inventory of which are eight holy doves. But this also has now
become but an imaginary advantage, as, according to its learned
keeper's doleful complaints, it is very rarely visited. In this as
well as in the other quarter, all the houses are built of gypsum.
As Mizda is a very remarkable feature in the country, I thought
it worth while to make a particular sketch of the oasis also from
this side.
This oasis is very diminutive ; but two caravan routes, one
from Murzuk and one from Ghadames, join at this point. The
inhabitants are of a mild disposition, and enjoy the fame of

104

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

strict honesty. Every thing is here considered as secure, and
the camels which can not find food in the neighborhood are
driven into the green valley at four or five miles' distance, and
left there without a guardian. I make these statements ad
visedly, as reflections of a different kind have been made on their
character. The people seem to suffer much from sore eyes.
When we asked them about the most remarkable features of the
road before us, they spoke of a high mount, Teransa,* which,
however, we did not afterward recognize.

-=g<p>-

In the afternoon I made an excursion with Overweg to Jebel
Durman, situated at the distance of a mile and a half southeast.
It is rather a spur of the plateau jutting out into the broad val
ley, and, with its steep, precipitous, and washed walls, nearly
detached and extremely narrow as it is — a mere neck of rock-
looks much like a castle. Upon the middle of its steep side is
a small zawiya belonging to the Zintan. The prospect from
this steep and almost insulated pile could not, of course, be very
extensive, as the mount itself is on the general level of the pla-
* Mount Teransa, if it be identical with the Teransa mentioned above, must
be to the east, along the north side of Wadi Sofejin.

WADI S'OFEJTN. 105
teau ; but we obtained a fine view over the sea of heights sur
rounding the broad valley and the several tributaries of which it
is formed. Night was setting in, and we returned to our tent.
Having heard our Zintani make frequent mention of an an
cient castle with numerous sculptures, and situated at no great
distance, I resolved to visit it, and set out tolerably early in the
morning of the 9th of April, accompanied by the Arab and one
of our shoushes.
We had first to send for one of our camels, which was graz
ing at about three miles' distance, in the sandy bottom of the
wadi S.E. from our encampment. It was only on this occasion
that I became aware of the exact nature of the valley of Mizda,
and its relation to the Wadi Sofejin ; for we did not reach this
latter wadi until we had traversed the whole breadth of the
sandy plain, and crossed a mountain spur along a defile called
Khurmet bu Matek, at the distance of at least eight miles from
our encampment. This is the famous valley mentioned in the
eleventh century by the celebrated An dalusian . geographer El
Bekri,* and the various produce of which the Arabs of the pres
ent day celebrate in song :
ras-ha e' ttin ii merj.'n
ii wost-ha bazin
ii ghar-ha 'ajin.
Figs and olive-trees adorn its upper part, which is said to stretch
out as far as Erhebat, a district one day and a half beyond Zin
tan ; barley is cultivated in its middle course, while wheat, from
which the favorite dish 'ajin is made, is grown chiefly in its
lower part, near Tawargha. The valley seems worthy of better
fortune than that to which it is reduced at present ; for when
we marched along it, where it ran S. 20 W. to N. 20 E., we
passed ruins of buildings and water-channels, while the soil ex
hibited evident traces of former cultivation. I listened with in
terest to the Zintani, who told me that the' valley produced an
excellent kind of barley, and that the Kuntarar, as well as the
* There can not be the least doubt that this valley is meant in the passage
cited in "Notices et Extraits," vol. xii., p. 453. Compare Journal Asiatique,
serie v., torn, i., p. 156.

106

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

people of Zintan, his countrymen, and the Welad Bu-Sef, vied
with each other in cultivating it, and, in former times at least,
had often engaged in bloody contests for the proprietorship of
the ground. When I expressed my surprise at his joining the
name of his countrymen with those of the other tribes herea
bouts, he gave me the interesting information that the Zintan
had been the first and most powerful of all the tribes in this
quarter before the time of the Turks, and held all this country
in a state of subjection. Since then their political power and
influence had been annihilated, but they had obtained by other
means right of possession in Mizda as well as in Ghariya, and
still farther, in the very heart of Fezzan, by lending the people
money to buy corn, or else corn in kind, and had in this way
obtained the proprietorship of a great number of the date-trees,
which were cultivated and taken care of by the inhabitants for
a share of the produce. Formerly the people of Zintan were in
possession of a large castle, where they stored up their provis
ions ; but since the time of the Turkish dominion, their custom
has been to bring home the fruits of their harvests only as they
want them. In Wadi Shati we were to meet a caravan of these
enterprising people.

CHRISTIAN REMAINS. 107
While engaged in this kind of conversation we entered a
smaller lateral valley of Wadi Sofejin, and reached the foot of
a projecting hill on its western side, which is crowned with a
castle. Here it was that I was to find marvelous ancient
sculptures and drawings ; but I soon perceived that it would be
as well not to cherish any high expectations. The castle, as it
now stands, is evidently an Arab edifice of an early period, built
of common stones hewn with some regularity, and set in hori
zontal layers, but not all of the same thickness. It forms al
most a regular square, and contains several vaulted rooms, all
arranged with a certain degree of symmetry and regularity.
But while we pronounce the main building to be Arab, the
gateway appears to be evidently of Roman workmanship, and
must have belonged to some older edifice which the Arab chief
tain who built this castle probably found in the place — a con
jecture which seems to be confirmed by several ornamental
fragments lying about.
It is a pity that we know so little of the domestic history of
these countries during the period of the Arab dynasties, though
a step in advance has been made by the complete publication
of Ebn Khaldun's history, else we should regard with more in
terest these relics of their days of petty independence. This
castle, as well as another, the description of which I shall sub
join here, though it was visited some days later, is called after
a man named Khafaji 'Aamer, who is said to have been a pow
erful chief of great authority in Tunis no less than in Tarabo-
lus (Tripoli).*
The other ruin, related to this one as well by name as by the
style of its workmanship, but in many respects more interesting,
having been evidently once a place of Christian worship, stands
on a narrow and detached neck of rock in the Sh'abet Um el
Kharab, and, from its whole plan, appears to have been origin-
* For this statement there may be, indeed, some historical foundation. We
know that, from the year of the hejra 724 (1323 A.D.) till the year 802 (1399),
there reigned in Tripoli a dynasty of the Beni 'Aamer (Haji Khalfa's Chrono
logical Tables, p. 167), who most probably were related to the dynasty of the
same name which for a long time maintained its dominion over Tripolis in Syria.

108

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

ally and principally a church about forty-three feet square, suf
ficiently large for a small congregation, and with more art and
comfort than one can easily suppose a Christian community in
these quarters ever to have possessed. Hence greater interest
attaches to this building than it would otherwise deserve. It
closes with a plain apsis, in which there are two openings or
doorways leading into an open room stretching behind it and

CHRISTIAN REMAINS. 109
the side-naves, and is divided into three naves, the middle one
of which is eight paces, and the lateral ones six and a half wide.

The naves are divided from one another by columns with dif
ferently-ornamented capitals supporting arches, all in the so-
called round style of architecture. I made purposely a sketch
of two different capitals, in order to show their designs, and I
think they are very characteristic. But it is curious to observe
that the walls also appear to have been originally painted on
stucco, though at present but a small piece of it remains near
the corner ; hence I conclude that the date of the painting was
later than that of the erection of the church.
The front of the building has suffered in some degree from
the depredations of the Arabs, who are said to have carried away
a great many sculptures from this place — as much, indeed, a
man from Mizda would have made me believe, as fifty-five cam
el-loads. However exaggerated this statement may be, it is evi
dent that the whole layer over the entrance was originally cov
ered with ornamental slabs, while now only two remain to the
left of the doorway ; and these, though in the same style of
sculpture as the capitals, would rather seem to have been taken
from another edifice. There are many debatable points involved
in the consideration of this building. The first fact clearly
shown is the existence of a Christian community or a monas
tery in these remote valleys, as late as the twelfth century at
least, under the protection of a powerful chief; and this is not

110

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

at all improbable, as we know that Mohammed expressly ordered
that zealous priests and monks should be spared, and as we find
so many monasteries in several other Mohammedan countries.
That it was not merely a church, but a monastery, seems plainly
indicated by the division into apartments or cells, which is still
clearly to be seen in the upper story. Attached to the north

side of the church was a wing containing several simple apart
ments, as the ground-plan shows ; and on the south corner of
the narrow ridge is a small separate tower with two compart
ments. Near this ruin there is another, which I did not visit,
called Ksaer Labayed mt'a Derayer, while a third, called Ksaer
el Haemer, has been destroyed.

CHAPTER V.

SCULPTURES AND ROMAN REMAINS IN THE DESERT. — GHAElTA.
April 11th. We lost the best part of the morning, our men
not being able to find their camels, which had roamed over the
whole wadi. Our road was almost the same as that by which
I had returned the previous day; and we encamped in the Wadi
Sofejin, on a spot free from bushes. From this place, accom
panied by the Zintani, I visited, the next morning, the castle or
convent in Sh'abet Um el kharab, which I have described, and
thence struck across the stony plateau in order to overtake our

ROMAN REMAINS.

Ill

caravan. It was a desolate level, rarely adorned with humble
herb or flower ; and we hastened our steps to reach our com
panions. Here I heard from the Zintani that his father came
every year about this season, with his flocks, to the valleys east
of our road, and that he would certainly be there this year also.
He invited me to go thither with him, and to indulge in milk to
the extent of my wishes ; as for myself, I declined, but allowed
him to go, on condition that he would return to us as soon as
possible. Even after we had overtaken the caravan, the country con
tinued in general very bare; but we passed some valleys afford
ing a good deal of herbage, or adorned with some fine batum-
trees. About five o'clock P.M. we encamped in Wadi Talha,
not far from a Roman castle or tower on a hill to our left. On
visiting the ruin, I found it built of rough stones without ce

ment, being about twenty feet square in the interior, with round
ed corners, and with only one narrow gate, toward the east.
But this was not the only remnant of antiquity in the neighbor
hood, for in front of us, on the plateau, there appeared some-

112 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
thing like a tower of greater elevation ; and proceeding early the
next morning, when our people had only begun to load, to ex
amine it, I found it to be a Roman sepulchre, originally consist
ing apparently of three stories ; but of these only the base and
the first story remain, while the stones belonging to the upper
one are now scattered on the ground, and show that it was orna
mented with small Corinthian columns at the corners. Even
in the most desolate spot, every thing left by the Romans has a
peculiar finish. The first story, being all that at present re
mains, measures 5 ft. 4 in. on the east and west, and 5 ft. 9 in.
on the north and south sides. Not far from this sepulchre are
the ruins of another one, of which, however, nothing but the
base remains, if, indeed, it was ever completed. By the time
my drawing was finished, the caravan had come up.
I then passed several detached cones, the steep precipitous
sides of which, formed by the breaking away of the strata, look
ed like so many castles, and, traversing Wadi Marsid, reached
the camels. They marched to-day at a very good rate, the quick
est we had as yet observed in traveling, namely, half a mile in
twelve minutes, making a little less than 2£ miles an hour ; hut
we afterward found that this had now become our usual rate, '
whereas before reaching Mizda we had scarcely ever exceeded
2 miles an hour. The loads of the camels, of course, had been
heavier in the beginning ; but this can hardly be the only rea
son of the difference. The greater dreariness of the country,
and the impulse of our camel-drivers and their beasts to get
to their homes, must be taken into account. I must here ob
serve that Overweg and I measured our rate repeatedly with a
chain provided by government, although it was a very fatiguing
labor, and injurious to our dignity in the eyes of our people.
Gradually the day grew very uncomfortable, a hot west wind
driving the sand into our faces, and totally obscuring the sky.
Keeping along the Wadi Teroth, sometimes more than a mile
wide, we had on our left a broad mount, rising first with a grad
ual ascent, but in its upper part forming a steep and lofty wall
called el Khaddamiyeh. Here too, according to the information
of my faithful Arab, there is said to be a Roman sepulchre.

REMARKABLE MONUMENT. 113
Having passed a small defile, and crossed another valley, we had
other Roman ruins on our right, a castle as it seemed, and near
it something Hke a sepulchre ; but the sand-storm hardly allow
ed us to look, still less to go in that direction.
At three o'clock in the afternoon we turned off to the west
into Wadi Tagije, and encamped near the bed of a torrent eight
feet deep, which amply testifies that, at times, a considerable
stream is formed here, a fact confirmed by the fresh and luxu
riant herbage springing up in many parts of the valley among
thick bushes and brushwood. Nor was it quite desolate even
now ; for the flocks of the Welad Bu-Sef were seen, and their
tents were said to be not far off. The upper part of the valley
is called El Khtirub.
This hot day proved a dies ater to my Arab, who had gone
to visit his family. Having brought his old father with him,
together with a goat, as a present, and a skin of milk, he un
luckily arrived too late in the morning at our last night's en
campment. He then sent his father back with the goat, and
began to follow us in the hope of soon overtaking the caravan ;
but he was obliged to march the' whole intensely-hot day with
out water, and he could not drink the milk m. the skin, which
became quite hot, so that he suffered greatly, and arrived in a
very exhausted state.
The fine herbage procured us a whole day's rest, as the camel-
drivers were in no haste to bring Tip their camels. Not know
ing this, but yet convinced- that we should not start at an early
hour, as the well was at some distance, and following the infor
mation received from the Zintani, who was himself too lame to
accompany me, I had taken my gun and pistols at an early hour
in the morning, and gone in the direction of the valley to look
after a monument. After nearly two hours' march I distinguish
ed something like a high pillar, and, proceeding straight toward
it, found it to be one of the richest specimens of this kind of
, monument bequeathed to us by antiquity, and an indisputable
proof that these regions, now so poor, must have then supported
', a population sufficiently advanced in taste and feeling to admire
works of a refined character.
' Vol.1.— H

114

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

The monument rises, upon a base of three steps and in three
stories, nearly to a height of forty-eight feet. The base contain!
a sepulchral chamber 4 ft. 10£ in. long, and 4 ft. \ in. '
with three niches, one on the north, and two on the east :

REMARKABLE MONUMENT. 115
This side was the principal face of the monument, forming its
most ornamented part. The first story measures at its base on
the E. and W. sides 5 ft. 5| inches, and on the N. and S. sides
4 ft. IOJ inches : it consists of six layers of stones, on the low
est of which is represented a pair of wild animals, probably pan
thers, with their fore legs or paws resting upon a sepulchral urn,
as if they were watching it ; on the next layer above is seen the
handsome bust of a young female ; two layers intervene with
out sculpture ; and the fifth is ornamented on all the four sides
with hunting scenes. The frieze on every side is formed by four
rosettes ; but that on the north side had some additional deco
ration, the second rosette on that side, from the east, exhibiting
a group of centaurs, and the fourth a cock. Upon this part of
the frieze is a garland of clusters of grapes ; then follows the
moulding. In the second story the third layer forms the sill and lower
part of a false door very richly ornamented, and on the fifth
layer a pair of genii hold a coronal over the door of the sepul
chre, a representation which seems to intimate Christian ideas.
Above it a niche contains the busts of a man and his wife ; but
on the north side an elderly woman occupies a niche with her bust,
probably in her character as proprietress of the single sepulchral
niche of the tomb below. Above is an ornament with two bunches
of grapes ; and then follows the frieze, of the common Ionic or
der. The moulding is surmounted by a pyramidal roof about
12 feet high, which has lost its summit; otherwise the whole
monument, with the exception of the sepulchral chamber, which
has been broken up in search of treasures, is in the best state
of preservation, notwithstanding its very slender proportions —
a circumstance very remarkable, after the lapse of at least more
than sixteen centuries. No wonder that the natives of these
regions now regard these tall sepulchral monuments, so strange
at present in this land of desolation, as pagan idols, and call
them " sanem ;" for I myself, when alone in front of the mon
ument in this wide, solitary valley, and under the shadow of
the deep, precipitous side of a plateau adjoining the Khaddamiye
on the east, felt impressed by it with a certain degree of awe
and veneration.

116 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
My sketch being finished, I was still attracted to a greater
distance up the valley by something which seemed at first to be
another monument ; but it was only a mark fixed by the Arabs,
and served but to lengthen my march back, which was more
slow, as the heat had set in. But I was well satisfied with my
morning's work, and my companions were greatly astonished
when they saw the sketch. In the afternoon I made with Over
weg another excursion in the opposite direction, when, after an
hour's march, we ascended a height and obtained a most inter
esting view over this singular tract, which seems to be the frag
mentary border of a plateau torn and severed by ravines and
precipices, so that only wall-like cliffs, rising like so many isl
ands out of a sea of desolation, indicate its height. A high
craggy ridge toward the west, with precipitous pinnacled walls,
looked like a castle of the demons. Just in a ravine on the
border of this wild scene of natural revolutions, my companion
had the good luck to find some very interesting fossils, partic
ularly that beautiful specimen which, after him, has been called
Exogyra Overwegi ; but our zeal had carried us too far, and it
grew dark as we commenced our return, so that we had some
difficulty in groping our way back to the encampment, where
we arrived weary and fatigued, after having caused our people
a good deal of apprehension.
April 14th. We were roused from our refreshing sleep as
early as two o'clock after midnight ; but this was a mere sham
of our camel-drivers, who feigned making up for the loss of yes
terday, and, after all, we did not get off early. Our road car
ried us from wadi to wadi, which were generally separated from
each other by a defile, occasionally presenting some difficulty
of passage. We left a castle of Roman workmanship, as it
seemedj in the distance to the left, and further on, to the right,
a slight stone wall called Hakl el Urinsa, dating from the petty
wars between the Arab tribes. We had already passed a few
small ethel-bushes ; but now we came to a most venerable*
looking old tree called Athelet Si Mohammed fi Useat, spread
ing out its weather-beaten branches to a considerable distance:
under this I sat down quietly for a while, waiting for our peo-

WADI ZEMZEM. 117
pie, who were still behind. The caravan at length came up ;
and, continuing our march, we soon passed, on our right hand,
the chapel of a great Merabet of the Welad Bu-Sef, called Si
Rashedan. The Welad Bu-Sef in general enjoy great author
ity with the other tribes for their sanctity of life and purity of
manners; they allow no stranger to come near their villages,
but pitch a tent for him at a distance, arid treat him well. The
person at present most distinguished among them for learning
seems to be an old man named Sidi Bubakr, who exercises
great influence, and is able to grant serviceable protection to
travelers in time of war.
The Welad Bu-Spf are remarkable for the excellent breed of
their camels, which they treat almost as members of their fam
ilies. It is curious that this tribe, intent upon right and justice,
has waged war incessantly from ancient times with the Urf ilia,
the most warlike and violent of the tribes of these regions. It
is difficult to make out whether they are related to the Welad
Bu-Sef of the western part of the desert, who are likewise dis
tinguished by their peculiar manners, but who, it seems, would
scruple, on religious grounds, to call a man 'Abd e' nebi (Slave
of the Prophet), which is the name of the ancestor of the East
ern Bu-Sef.
Emerging from a defile, upon high ground, early in the after
noon, we obtained a view over Wadi Zemzem, one of the most
celebrated valleys of this part of North Africa. It runs in gen
eral from W. to E.N.E., and is furnished with a great many
wells, the most famous of which are El Abiadh, Smela, Nakha-
la, Uridden, Halk el Wadi, and, a little further down, Teder.
In'half an hour we encamped in the valley, full of herbage and
with a goodly variety of trees. A caravan coming from the
natron-lakes, and carrying their produce to Tripoli, was here
encamped. I could not withstand the temptation of ascending,
in the afternoon, a projecting eminence on the south side of the
valley, which was broken and rent into a great variety of preci
pices and ravines ; but its summit, being on a level with the
plateau, did not afford me such a distant view as I had expect
ed. The cliff was formed of strata of marl and gypsum, and
contained many fossil shells.

118

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

Monday, April 15th. As soon as we left the bottom of the
valley, the path, which became rugged and stony, led up the
southern cliffs, went round the east side of the conspicuous
promontory, and then continued to wind along between the
slopes of the higher level of the plateau. A hill, distinguished
from among the surrounding heights by the peculiar shape of
its cone, has here received the significant name Shush el 'abid
— the Slaves' Cap. A little farther on the roads separate, that
to the left leading along the principal branch of the valley to
the little town Ghariya, while the eastern goes to the well Ta-
boniye. One might suppose that in a desolate country like this, and
just at the entrance into a desert tract of great extent, the cara
vans would gladly avail themselves of those abodes of hfe which
still exist ; but such is not the case ; they avoid them inten
tionally, as if a curse were attached to them, and those places,
of course, fall every day more and more into decay. After a
Httle consultation, the path by Taboniye was thought preferable,
and we took it. The rough and stony character of the country
ceased, and we gradually entered a fine valley, called Wadi To-
lagga, richly clothed with a variety of trees and bushes, such as
the sidr, the ethel, the ghurdok, and several others. After meet
ing here with a caravan, we caught the gladdening and rare sight
of an Arab encampment, belonging to the Urinsa, and obtained
some milk. Without crossing any separation or defile, but al
ways keeping along the same valley, we approached the well Ta
boniye. But near it the vegetation is less rich ; the soil is inter
mixed with salt, and covered with a peculiar kind of low tree
called by the present inhabitants of the country fr'o — a term
which, in pure Arabic, would only mean " a branch."
While our people were busily employed pitching the tents, I
went at once to examine a moriument which, for the last hour
of our march, had stood as a landmark ahead of us. I reached
it at the distance of a mile and a quarter from our encampment,
over very stony and rugged ground. It was well worth the
pains I had taken ; for, though it is less magnificent than the
monument in W. Tagije, its workmanship would excite the in-

ROMAN SEPULCHRES AT TAB ONI YE.

119

terest of travelers, even if it were situated in a fertile and well-
inhabited country, and not in a desolate country like this, where
a splendid building is, of course, an object of far greater curios
ity. It is a sepulchre, about twenty-five feet high, and rising

120 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
in three stories of less slender proportions than the monumenl
above described, and is probably of a later period. The preced
ing sketch will suffice to give an exact idea of it.
Near this is another sepulchre, occupying a more command
ing situation, and, therefore, probably of older date, but it is al
most entirely destroyed ; and a third one in an equally ruinous
state, but of larger proportions than either, is seen further S.E.
These monuments serve to show that the dominion of the Eo
mans in these regions was not of momentary duration, but con
tinued for a length of time, as the different styles of the remains
clearly proves. It may be presumed that no common soldier
could pretend to the honor of such a tomb ; and it is probable
that these sepulchres were destined to contain the earthly re
mains of some of the consecutive governors or officers stationed
at the neighboring place, which I shall soon describe.
Like a solitary beacon of civilization, the monument rises
over this sea-like level of desolation, which, stretching out to
an immense distance south and west, appears not to have ap
palled the conquerors of the ancient world, who even here have
left behind them, in "lithographed proof," a reminiscence of a
more elevated order of life than exists at present in these re
gions. The flat valley below, with its green strip of herbage, stretch
es far into the stony level ; and beyond, northeastward, the des
olate waste extends toward Ghariya.
I returned to the encampment, which meanwhile had sprung
up on the open space round the well, and was anxious to quench
my thirst with a draught of the precious liquid ; but the water
was rather salt, and disagreed with me so long as I continued
to use it, that is, for the next seven days. That we might make
good use of our leisure hours, all three of us went the next day
to Ghariya, or rather Ghariya el gharbiya — i. e., western, to
distinguish it from the more distant eastern place of the same
name. Cheerfully as we set forward, we were heartily glad when,
after a three hours' march, we saw the northern tower of the
place become visible over the monotonous stony plain, the wide

GHARTYA.— ROMAN GATEWAY.

121

and unbounded expanse of which seemed to indicate something
above a single day's excursion. After having also descried the
half-ruined dwellings of the village, we were eagerly looking
out for the palm-grove, when we suddenly reached the brink of
a deep ravine, in which, on our left, the fresh green plantation
started forth, while all around was naked arid bare. We cross
ed the ravine, leaving the grove on our left, and ascended the
opposite cliffs toward the ruined cluster of miserable cottages,
when, having traversed the desolate streets, we encamped out

side the Roman gate, the massive and regular architecture of
which formed a remarkable contrast to the frail and half-ruined
structures of the village. We were greatly astonished to find
such a work here.*
It has but little resemblance to the Roman castle or station
at Bonjem, such as it is seen in Captain Lyon's drawing ;f for,

* A copy of my drawing of this interesting monument, of its ground-plan, and
of the inscription, was sent by me to Dr. Patrick Colquhoun in May, 1850 ; and
a short and learned treatise on it was published by John Hogg, Esq., in the
Transactions of the Royal Society of Literature, vol. iv., new series.
t Captain Lyon's Travels, p. 67.

122

TRAVELS LN AFRICA.

while the latter represents a single gateway flanked by two
quadrangular towers, the building at Ghariya consists of three
archways, flanked by towers with receding walls. The two
smaller gateways have been almost entirely filled with rubbish;
the upper layer likewise is gone, and only those stones which
form the arch itself are preserved, the centre stone above the
principal aych bearing the inscription "PRO. AFR. ILL."
(provincia African illustris), encircled by a coronal, while that
above the eastern side-gate is ornamented with a large sculp
ture, the lower part of which it is difficult to make out distinct
ly, except the trace of a chariot and a person in curious attire
following it,* while the upper part represents two eagles in a
sitting posture, with half-extended wings, holding a coronal,
and at each end a female genius, in a flying posture, stretching
out a larger and a smaller coronal. Besides this, and a few
Berber names,! there is no inscription now on the building ; but
an inscription found in another place, which I shall soon men
tion, and which was probably originally placed over the small
archway on the right,! seems to leave no doubt that this forti
fication dates from the time of Marc. Aurel. Severus Antoninus,?
and if not built in the years between 232 and 235 after Christ,
at least was then in existence.
As the ground-plan, which is here subjoined, evidently shows,
this is not by itself a complete building, and could only
quarters to a very limited number of soldiers acting as a ;

* This might represent the subjugated nation or prince.
t Among these the following names can be made out with certainty, leaving
only the short vowels, which are not expressed, in some doubt. Umaghmagh-
diimer or umaghem ghedumer, Muthemaghem. besmeter. menmenyr. The let
ters underlined are not certain. It is scarcely necessary to say that these in
scriptions were made upon the building at a later period, and that Mr. Hogg
was wrong when, taking them for Punic, and thinking that I had overlooked
"the most remarkable portions of this remain," he believed them to be taken
from some older Punic building.
J This is a very probable conjecture of Mr. Hogg.
§ Although the name ANTONINO has suffered a little in the inscription, yet,
copying it, as I did, without any prejudice, I found sufficient traces of the letters
composing this name, and I hardly think that I have been mistaken. If so, it is
a curious and remarkable instance of this title, which Severus Alexander is said
to have refused. See Gibbon, vol. i., p. 289.

ARAB TOWER.

123

¦ ie.£

<  ZSM—

<~~i(.vf-~f>

-V-.«:s"i-  >

— in fact, it can only be the well-fortified entrance into the Ro
man station ; but of the station itself I was unable to discover
any traces, though a great quantity of stones from some build
ing lie scattered about in the village. The only ancient build
ing which I was able to discover, besides the gate, was a cistern
at the N.W. corner of the wall, near the slope into the wadi,
which is here very precipitous. It was probably 60 ft. long,
for at 30 ft. there is an arch dividing it ; but one half of it, ex
cept a space of about 8 ft., has been filled with rubbish ; its
breadth is 5 ft. 3J in. Perhaps the whole fortification was
never finished ; the inner edge of the stones would seem to in
timate that not even the gateway received its entire ornament.
While I was busy making a drawing of the ruins, Overweg,
who, in order to measure the elevation of the place by boiling
water, had directed his steps to a rising ground some distance
north of the village, which was crowned with a tower, sent to
inform me that on the tower was a large Roman inscription,
which he was unable to make out, and as soon as I had finished
my sketch I went thither. It is a round Arab tower, only two
large ancient stones having been made use of as jambs, while a
large slab, covered with an inscription, is used as an impost,
owing to which circumstance the inhabitants generally regarded
even the tower as a Christian or Roman building. The inscrip
tion, which was evidently taken from the fortified station, is
32^- in. long, and 15-^-Pr in. high, and consists of nine lines. It
has been read and interpreted by Mr. Hogg in the following
manner :
I(mperatori) Caes(ari) M. Aurelio Severo Alexandro* P(atri) P(atrise) P(i)o
Felici Aug(usto) Et pagus et senatus et castr(um) [or castrum munitum] et mu-
nicipium  d. d. ; poni curavit Severiana; P. Nero situs vexillationis leg(ioni)s

* See note, p. 122.

124 TRAVELS IN "AFRICA.
IV. S(cythicse) ; [or legionis XXI. Victricis Severianse] dec(urio) Mauromm e(t)
solo (o)pere (e)andem vexillationem instituit.
" To the Emperor Caesar M. Aurelius Severus, Father of his Country, Pious,
Happy, Augustus, the district, the senate, the camp, and free town of  ded
icate (this)  P Nero, Deourion of the Moors, caused the station of the Seve-
rian regiment (horse) of the 21st Legion, Victorious, Severian, to be established;
and he instituted by his own act the same regiment."
Though in this interpretation many words are very uncertain,
it is clear from it — as it is more than probable that the inscrip
tion was taken from the former monument — that here was the
station of a squadron of horse, or rather of an ala sociorum;
but at the same time we have to regret that the name of the
place is among the words entirely effaced. I, however, think it
extremely improbable that it was a municipium. I will here
only add that this direct western road to Fezzan and Jerma
was not opened before the time of Vespasian, and received then
the name "(iter) prseter caput saxi," most probably on account
of its crossing the mountain chain near the coast at its steepest
part.* As for the tower, or nadhtir, it was evidently erected in for
mer times in order to give timely notice when a band of free
booters — " el jaesh" (the army), as they are called here — was
hovering around this solitary village ; for this seems to have
been the chief cause of its destruction, the Urfilla being said to
have been always watching and lying in ambush round this
lonely place, to attack and rob small parties coming from or going
to it ; they are said even to have once captured the whole place.
The consequence is that it has now scarcely thirty male inhab
itants able to bear arms, and is avoided by the caravans as
pestilent, the water, they say, being very unwholesome. The
small remnant of the inhabitants have a very pale and ghastly
appearance, but I think this is owing rather to the bad quality
of their food than to that of the water. In former times it is
said to have been celebrated on account of a merabet of the
name of Sidi M'adi.
* Plinius, H. N., 1. v., c. 5: "Ad Garamantas iter inexplicabile adhuc fuit.
Proximo bello, quod cum CEensibus Romani gessere auspiciis Vespasiani Impera-
toris, compendium via; quatridui deprehensum est. Hoc iter vocatur Prater »
jyiit saxi."

GHARIYA "E' SHERKIYA. 125
As soon as I had sufficiently examined the ruins and the vil
lage, I hastened to the bottom of the ravine. The contrast be
tween the ruined hovels of the village, perched on the naked
rock, and the green, fresh plantation, fed by a copious supply
of water, is very great. Thick, luxuriant, and shady clusters
are here formed, principally around the basin filled by the
spring, which rashes forth from beneath a rock, and gives life
to the little oasis. Its temperature I found, at half past one
o'clock P.M., 70£° Fahr., while that of the air was 70°. The
number of the date-trees, though small, is nevertheless larger
than in Mizda, and may be nearer to 350 than to 300. The water
of the ravine, after a heavy fall of rain, joins the Wadi Zemzem,
the principal valley of this whole district, which, together with
Wadi Sofejin and Wadi Bei', carries all the streams collected
hereabouts to the sea.
Such is the character of Ghariya el gharbiya, uniting, even
in its present state of decay, great historical interest with that
attaching to a conspicuous and remarkable feature in the coun
try. Whether her eastern sister^ Ghariya e' sherkiya, awakens
an equal or a still greater interest, it is difficult to say, but it
seems to have quite the same elements of attraction as the west
ern place, namely, a date-grove and Roman ruins. I had a
great desire to visit it, but that was not possible, as we were to
start next day from Taboniye.
According to our Zintani, the path leading to it from the
western village first lies over the hammada, then crosses a ra
vine called Wadi Khatab, leads again over the plateau, crosses
another wadi, and at length, after about ten miles, as it seems,
reaches the ravine of Ghariya e' sherkiya,* stretching from W.
to E., the grove, of about the same extent as in the other oasis,
being formed, at the N. and W. bases of the rocky height upon
which the place stands. At the side of the village there is, he
said, a large Roman castle far larger than that in the western
one, of about eight or ten feet elevation at present, but without
an arched gateway of that kind, and without inscriptions. On
* It is scarcely necessary to mention that Mr. J. Hogg has been greatly mis
taken in identifying this place with Ghirza, which lies at a great distance.

126 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the east side of the eminence are only a few palms, and on the
south side none. The village is distinguished by a merabet
called Bu-Sbaeha. Neither from the Zintani nor from any body
else did I hear that the inhabitants of these two solitary ksur
are called by the peculiar name Waringa ; I learned it afterward
only from Mr. Richardson's statement,* and I have reason to
think that the name was intended for Ursiha.
We returned by a more northern path, which at first led us
through a rather difficult rocky passage, but afterward joined
our path of yesterday. Overweg and I had no time to lose in
preparing for our journey over the hammada, or plateau, while
Mr. Richardson was obliged, by the conduct of the ill-provided
and ill-disciplined blacks who accompanied him, to follow us hy
night. We therefore got up very early next morning, but lost
a good deal of time by the quarrels among our camel-drivers,
who were trying, most unjustly, to reserve all the heavy loads
for the camels of the inexperienced Tarki lad 'Ali Karamra, till
they excited his indignation, and a furious row ensued. This
youth, though his behavior was sometimes awkward and absurd,
excited my interest in several respects. He belonged to a fam
ily of Tawarek, as they are called, settled in Wadi el Gharhi,
and was sent by his father to Tripoli with three camels, to tiy
his chance of success, although members of that nation, with
the exception of the Tinylkum, rarely visit Tripoli. He was
slender and well formed, of a glossy light-black complexion, and
with a profile truly Egyptian ; his manners were reserved, and
totally different from those of his Fezzani companions.
At length we were under way, and began gradually to ascend
along the strip of green which followed the shelving of the pla
teau into the valley, leaving the Roman sepulchre at some dis
tance to our right. The flat Wadi Lebaerek, which is joined
by Wadi Shak, was still adorned with gattuf and retem. It
was not till we had passed the little hill called Lebaerek, and
made another slight ascent, that we reached the real level of the
terrible Hammada ; the ascent, or shelving ground, from Taho-
niye to this point being called el Mudhar mt'a el Hammada,
* Vol. i., p. 60.

THE HAMMADA. 127
and the spot itself, where the real Hammada begins, Bu-safar,- a
name arising from the obligation which every pilgrim coming
from the north, who has not before traversed this dreaded dis
trict, lies under, to add a stone to the heaps accumulated by
former travelers.
But, notwithstanding all the importance attached to the dreary
character of this region, I found it far less naked and bare than
I had imagined it to be. To the right of our path lay a small
green hollow, of cheerful appearance, a branch of which is said,
probably with some degree of exaggeration, to extend as far as
Ghadames ; but the whole extent of the Hammada is occasion
ally enlivened with small green patches of herbage, to the great
rehef of the camel. And this, too, is the reason why the trav
eler does not advance at a rate nearly so expeditious as he would
expect. In the latter part of our preceding journey we gener
ally had made almost as much as two and a half miles an hour,
but we scarcely got over two on this level open ground. Of
course, the wider the space, the wider the dispersion of the strag
gling camels ; and much time is lost by unsteady direction.
At the verdant hollow called Garra mt'a e' Nejm the eastern
path, which is called Trik el mugitha {via auxiliaris), and passes
by the village of Ghariya, joined our path.
At Wadi M'amura I first observed the little green bird gen
erally called asfir, but sometimes mesisa, which lives entirely
upon the caravans as they pass along by picking off the vermin
from the feet of the camels. In the afternoon we observed, to
our great delight, in the green patch called El Wueshkeh, a clus
ter of stunted palm-trees. Hereabouts the camel-drivers killed
a considerable number of the venomous lizard called bu-keshash ;
and the Tarki in particular was resolute in not allowing any
which he saw to escape alive. After a moderate march of little
more than ten hours and a half, we encamped in a small hollow
called, from a peculiar kind of green bush growing in it, El Je-
deriya. A strong cold wind, accompanied by rain, began to
blow soon after we encamped. The tent, not being sufficiently
secured, was blown down in the night, and we had some trouble
in pitching it again.

128 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
•Continuing our march, we passed, about ten o'clock in the
morning, a poor solitary talha-tree bearing the appellation of El
Duheda. Farther on we found truffles, which in the evening
afforded us a delicious truffle-soup. Truffles are very common
in many parts of the desert ; and the greatest of Mohammedan
travelers (Ebn Batuta) did not forget them in relating his jour
ney from Sejelmasa to Walata, in the middle of the 14th cen
tury.* The sky was very dark and hazy ; and the moon had
an extraordinary " dara," or halo. We slept this night with
out a tent, and felt the cold very sensibly.
April 19th. The march of the following day was a little en
livened by our meeting with two small caravans : the first, of
five camels ; the second, belonging to Ghadamsi people, and
laden with ivory, of fifteen. With the latter was also a woman,
sitting quite comfortably in her little cage. Shortly after half
past one o'clock in the afternoon we had reached the highest
elevation of the Hammada, indicated by a heap of stones called,
very significantly, Rejm el erha, 1568 feet above the level of
the sea. We encamped soon after, when a very heavy gale be
gan to blow from N.N.W., driving the swallows, which had
followed our caravan, into the tent and the holes formed by the
luggage ; but the poor things found no protection, for our tent,
which was light and high-topped, was blown down again during
the night, while a heavy rain accompanied the storm, and we, as
well as our little guests, were left a while without shelter, in a
very uncomfortable situation.
We started rather late the following morning, entering now
upon the very dreariest part of the Hammada, called El Homra.
So far there had been only one track over this stony plateau ;
but in the afternoon a path, called Mserf ben Wafi, branched
off toward the left. This path, which leads to the eastern parts
of Wadi Shati, formed formerly the common road to Fezzan,
the road by way of El Hasi being considered as too insecure, on
* Journal Asiatique, 1843, serie iv., torn, i., p. 189.
f The name Mser, being pure Arabic, testifies to its antiquity ; for at present
no Arab hereabouts would call a track or path by this name. It is properly the
journey itself.

END OF THE HOMMA'DA. 129
account of the robberies of the Urfilla. Hence the latter is still
called the new road, " Trik el jedid." Richardson, who had had
enough of the inconveniences of traveling by night, easily got
in advance of us this morning, after our short march of yester
day, and had advanced a good way by daytime. We were there
fore anxious to come up with him ; and on our way we encoun
tered a heavy shower of rain before we pitched our tent.
Sunday, April 21st. The whole caravan being once more
united, the increased variety of our own party relieved a good
deal of the feeling of monotony arising from the desolate char
acter of the country through which we traveled. After march
ing about seven miles, we arrived at the greenest and largest
hollow of the Hammada, called Wadi el Alga, which we ought
to have reached yesterday, in order to be able to get this day
as near the well as possible.
As it was, when we encamped in the afternoon, we had still
a long day's march before us, and therefore the next day, from
general impulse, in order to make sure of our arrival at the well,
we started at an early hour, keeping the caravan together by re
peated shouting. After a march of about twelve miles, we reach
ed the first passage leading down from the Hammada, and call
ed Tnie* Twennin ; but it was too steep and precipitous for our
rather heavily la'den caravan, and we had to continue till we
reached the Tnie el 'Ardha, a little after eleven o'clock, when we
began to descend from the plateau along a rough winding pass.
The sandstone of which it is formed presented to us a surface
so completely blackened, not only in the unbroken walls of the
ravine, but also in the immense blocks which had been detach
ed from the cliffs, and were lying about in great confusion, that
at first sight any body would have taken it for basalt ; but when
the stones were broken, their real nature became apparent. Over
this broad layer of sandstone, which in some places covered a
bed of clay mixed with gypsum, there was a layer of marl, and
over this, forming the upper crust, limestone and flints.
* Tnie, or, rather, thniye, ? . \ is a classical and still popular Arabic expres
sion, for a winding pass over high ground or up a hill.
Vol. I.— I

130 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
After a winding course for an hour, the narrow ravine, shut
in by steep, gloomy-looking cliffs, began to widen, and our di
rection varied less ; but still the whole district retained a gloomy
aspect, and the bottom of the valley was strewn with masses
of black sandstone, while the country ahead of us lay concealed
in a hazy atmosphere, which did not admit of an extensive view.
Eager to reach the well, the caravan being scattered over a great
extent of ground, we three travelers, with one of the shoushes,
pushed on in advance, the south wind driving the sand, which
lay in narrow strips along the pebbly ground, into our faces.
We cherished the hope of finding a cool little grove, or at least
some shade, where we might recline at ease after our fatiguing
march ; but, to our great disappointment, the sand becamedeep-
er, and nothing was to be seen but small stunted palm-bushes.
But even these ceased near the well, which was dug in the midst
of the sandy waste, and had once been protected by an oval-
shaped building, of which nothing but crumbling ruins remained.
It was a cheerless encampment after so fatiguing a march;
but there was at least no more fear of scarcity of water, for the
well had an abundant supply. No name could be more appro
priate to this place than El Hasi (the well). There is no need
of any discriminating surname; it is "the Well" — the well
where the traveler who has successfully crossed the Hammada
may be sure to quench his own thirst and that of his animals.
But it is not a cheerful resting-place, though it is the great wa
tering-place on this desert road, as he has to cross the fearful
"burning plain" of the Hammada before he reaches the spot*
There are several wells hereabouts, which might easily supply
with water the largest caravan in an hour's time ; for the water
is always bubbling up, and keeps the same level.
The well at the side of which we had encamped is rather nar
row and deep, and therefore inconvenient for a large party; hut
it is, though slightly, protected by the ruins around against the
wind, which is often very troublesome, and was particularly so
* El hammada is a very common name in North Africa for a stony level plain;
but it is generally accompanied by a surname. The name is mentioned and ex
plained by Ebn Khaldun, vol. ii., p. 358, trans. M. de Slane.

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"THE WELL." 133
on the evening of our arrival. Formerly there was here a sort
of fortified khan, such as is very rarely seen in these parts, built
by the tribes of the Notman and Swaid,* in order to protect
their caravans against the pillaging parties of the Urfilla, orig
inally a Berber tribe. This building consisted of simple cham
bers, twenty, as it seems, in number, lying round an oval court
which has entrances from north and south. It is thirty paces
long by sixteen wide, the centre being occupied by the well,
which, as it is dug in the sandy soil, bears the general name
Hasi. It has a depth of five fathoms; and its temperature was
found to be 71-f0 Fahr. The quality of the water, in compari
son with that of Taboniye, was very good. The elevation of
this place was found by Overweg to be 696 feet ; so that we
had descended from the highest point of the Hammada 742 feet.
As it was, we felt heartily glad when, our steady and heavy
Tripolitan tent being at length pitched, we were able to stretch
ourselves without being covered with sand. All the people were
greatly fatigued, and required repose more than any thing else.
Out of regard to the men as well as to the camels, we were
obliged to stay here the following day, though the place was
comfortless in the extreme, and did not offer the smallest bit of
shade. The accompanying sketch, which I made this day, of
the place, with the slope of the Hammada in the background,
will give but a faint idea of its desolate character. Scarcely
any of our places of encampment on the whole journey seemed
to me so bad and cheerless as this. If I had had an animal to
mount, I would have gone on to a cluster of three or four date-
trees, which are said to be at the distance of about three miles
west from the well, and belong to the people of Zintan, to enjoy
a little shade ; but our camels were too much distressed.
* The Swaid were formerly a very powerful tribe in Algeria, and are often
mentioned by Ebn Khaldun. In vol. i., p. 94, 101, their subdivisions are enu
merated.

134 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

CHAPTER VI.
WADI SHATI.  OLD JEEMA. — ARRIVAL IN MUEZUK.
Wednesday, April 24th. Theee are three roads from El
jTasi : the westernmost, called Trik e' duesa, after a small clus
ter of palm-trees ; the second, called Trik e' safar, stony and
more desolate than the former, but half a day shorter ; and the
third, or eastern, leading directly to Birgen. When we at
length left our uncomfortable encampment at El Hasi, our cam
el-drivers chose the middle road, which proved to be dismal and
dreary. But the first part of it was not quite so bad, the ap
pearance of granite among the rocks causing a little variety,
while tameran and shi'ah clothed the bottoms of the valleys.;
and we had a single specimen of a beautiful and luxuriant ba-
ttim-tree. When, however, we began to enter the region of the
sand-hills, intermixed with rocky ridges and cliffs, the character
of the country became desolate in the extreme.
We travelers, being in advance, chose our resting-place for
the first night near a high rocky mass called El Medal, against
the wish of the camel-drivers, who would rather have encamped
in the Sh'abet e' talha, further on. The summit of the rocky
eminence afforded a very interesting prospect over this singular
district ; and our younger shoush discovered, lower down, some
scrawled figures. He came running up to inform me of his dis
covery ; but it was of no interest, a cow and a sheep being the
only figures plainly recognizable. The Fezzani people come
hither in spring, when the rain-water collects in the cavities of
the rocks, and stay some months, in order to allow the camels
to graze on the young herbage, which then shoots up here in
profusion. Ben Sbaeda, during such a stay here, had lost a
son, near whose tomb the camel-drivers said a prayer, or zikr,
early the next morning.
Thursday, April 25th. Continuing our march, we soon came
to the Sh'abet e' talha, the bottom of which is clothed with the

WADI SHA'TI. 135
brushwood called arfish, and with the retem, or broom. Fur
ther on, when we came upon the higher rocky ground, the coun
try grew more sterile, though we were so fortunate as to catch
two gazelles. Black masses of sandstone jutted out on all
sides, and gave a wild air to the desolate region through which
we were passing. The sterile character of the scene underwent
no change till next morning, when, on advancing about a mile
and a half, we came to the Wadi Siddre, which was enlivened
by a few talha-trees. A narrow defile led us from this place to
the Wadi Boghar, whence we entered another defile. Midday
was past when we obtained a distinct view of the date-grove in
Wadi Shati,* and the high sand-hills which border the valley
on the south. Toward the north it was rather open, and we
hastened on to escape from the hot desert through which we
were marching ; but a good while elapsed before we reached the
border of the valley, which on this side abounded in herbage.
After a mile and a half we reached the first wild palm-trees,
thriving in separate and casually-formed groups. Then follow
ed a belt of bare black ground, covered with a whitish crust of
salt. The town, on the top of a broad terraced rock, seemed as
far off as ever. But I urged on my Bu-Sefi along the winding
path over the hard ground ; Richardson and Overweg followed
close behind, while the camel-drivers had fallen back to ex
change their dirty costume for one more decent. At length we
reached the northwestern foot of the- picturesque hill, and chose
our camping-ground beyond the shallow bed of a torrent between
, the date-trees and the corn-fields, near the largest fountain — a
: very agreeable resting-place, after the dreary desert which we
had traversed.
i We had felt tired so long as the place was yet ahead of us ;
j but we had no sooner reached it than all fatigue was gone, and
i Overweg and I, under the guidance of a m'allem, went forth to
, view the interesting features of the locality. It is certainly a
j, very rare spectacle in this quarter of the world to see a town
on the top of a steep terraced hill in the midst of a valley, and
}I * So the name is generally pronounced; the correct form being Shiyati, " the
,, rent."

136 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
occupying an advantageous position which might be supposed
to have given the place great importance from very ancient
times. E'deri seems to have been a considerable place till four
teen years ago, when the independent spirit of its inhabitants
was broken by the despotism of 'Abd el Jelil ben Sef e' Nasr,
the famous chief of the Welad Sliman. The old town on the
top of the hill having been destroyed, and there being no longer
a necessity for a fortified residence, under the civilized though
exhausting government of the Turks, the new village was built
at the northern foot of the hill, on which side lies the chapel of
the Merabet Bu-Derbala, and another of less fame, a little east
of the former, called Sidi 'Abd e' Salam.
The new village has two gates. Crossing it, we ascended the
steep narrow streets of the old town, which seems to have been
densely inhabited, and from the highest part, which is 190 feet
above the bottom of the valley, obtained a very interestingfiew
over a great part of the wadi, with its varied features ---here,
black sandstone, which in several places forms hills of consider
able extent; there, green fields of wheat and barley; then, again,
a large grove of date-trees scattered in long narrow strips behind
the high sand-hills bordering the valley on the south The
black ground, covered with a whitish crust, lay bare and naked
in many parts, while in others it was entirely overgrown with
herbage. Toward the south the slope of the rock on whichthe
town stands is rather steep and precipitous. On this side lie
the caverns which have been already noticed by Oudney, and
which are interesting only on account of the oval-shaped form
in which they have been excavated, as they are neither remark
able for dimensions nor for regularity ; their gen
eral shape is this. A larger group of caverns has
i been made in a detached rocky eminence, upon
which at present the cemetery is situated; but it is
only seventy-two feet in length, and its ground-plan is far from
being regular.
From this place I went through the adjoining grove, which,
with a little more care, might easily become a very beautiful
.plantation ; for there are a great many wells of very little depth,

E'DERI AND ITS GARDENS. 139
and the water is led through the channels with slight trouble.
Our encampment in the beautiful moonlight, with not a breath
of wind to disturb the tranquillity of the scene, was pleasant
in the extreme, and we all felt much delighted and greatly re
stored. Early on Sunday morning, after having finished my sketch
of the village on the hill, with our encampment in the foreground,
I took a walk all round the scattered groups of the plantation,
which must have suffered a great deal from 'Abd el Jelil, even
though the number of 6000 trees, which he is said to have cut
down, be an exaggeration. Toward the east side the salt crust
is still thicker than on the west, and is very unpleasant for walk
ing. I found here that, in addition to wheat and barley, much
amara was cultivated in the garden-fields, besides a few figs ;
but I saw no grapes. Several families were living here outside
in light huts or sheds made of palm-branches, and seemed to
enjoy some degree of happiness. At the southeast end of the
plantation rose a hill also formed of marl, and very similar to
that on which the town is situated. The names of the villages
along the valley, proceeding from west to east, are the follow
ing : after E'deri, Te"mesa,n ; then Wuenzerik, Berga (a couple
of villages distinguished as B. el foka and B. el utiyah), Gtita,
Turut, El Ghurda, Meheraga, Agar, Gogam, Kosaer Sellam,
Tamezawa, Aneruya, Zeluaz, Abrak, Gireh, Debdeb, and Ash-
kiddeh. The valley has two kaids, one of whom, 'Abd el Rah
man, resides at present in Temesan, while the residence of the
other, 'Agha Hassan e' Rawi, is in Tamezawa. Meheraga seems
to be the most populous of the villages. Abrak has the advant
age of a school.
April 28th. We left our picturesque encampment in order to
commence^ the passage over the sand-hills which separate the
shallow " rent" of Wadi Shiyati from the deeper valley, the
Wadi el Gharbi, the great valley par excellence. It is rather
singular that even the higher ground, which is elevated about
fifty feet above the bottom of the valley, is entirely covered with
a crust of salt. Having traversed this, we began the ascent of
the sand-hills, which in several favored spots present small clus-

140

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

ters of palm-trees, which too have their proprietors. Mukni, the
father of Yusuf, Mr. Richardson's interpreter, is said to have
killed a great many Welad Sliman hereabouts. The most con
siderable of the depressions or hollows in the sand, which are
decked with palm-trees, is the Wadi Shiiikh, which afforded, in
truth, a very curious spectacle — a narrow range of palm-trees
half buried between high sand-hills, some of them standing on
the tops of hillocks, others in deep hollows, with the head alone
visible. At length, after a good deal of fatigue, we encamped
in Wadi Gober, another shallow cavity between sand-hills with
brackish water and a few palm-trees. Here our camel-drivers
themselves possessed a few trees, and, of course, were more in
terested in the inspection of their own property than in starting
at an early hour the next day.
When we resumed our march we found our work more diffi
cult than before, the sand-hills assuming a steepness most try
ing for the camels, particularly at the brink of the slopes. We
were several times obliged to flatten away the edges with our
hands, in order to facilitate the camel's ascent. I went gener
ally a Httle in front, conducted by Mohamrried ben Sbaeda, one
of our camel-drivers, who, from the moment we had entered Fez
zan, had exchanged the quarrelsome character by which he had
made himself disagreeable to us, for very obliging and pleasing
manners, and was anxious to give me every information. He
told me that this belt of sand extended in a southwest and north
east direction from Dwesa as far as Fukka, a place, according to
him, five days' march on this side of Sokna. He added, that
however high and steep we might think these sand-hills, they
were nothing in comparison with those in the direction of the
natron-lakes ; but, in making this remark, I think he wanted to
excuse himself and his companions for taking us this long.way
round by the west. He knew that it was our desire to visit
the natron-lakes, and that our direct way to Murzuk led by
those lakes, while their object was to take us to their native
village Ugrefe. Mohammed stated that each district in Fezzan
has its own peculiar dialect ; and he contended that, while the
inhabitants of Wadi Shati speak a good sort of Arabic, similar

THE SANDY REGION. 141
to that spoken in Mizda, the people of the great wadi (Wadi el
Gharbi) make use of a corrupt dialect.
Meanwhile the caravan remained very far behind, and we
thought it prudent to wait for them in Wadi Tawil, particularly
as the path divided here. It was so hot that my camel, when
I let it loose to browse a little, would not touch any thing.
When the other camel-drivers at length came up, there was a
dispute as to the path to be followed ; but the truth was, that
while there could be no doubt about the direct road to Murzuk,
some of the camel-drivers wished to take us to Ubari. But at
length the other party, interested only in carrying us westward
as far as Ugrefe, which was a great deal out of our route, got
the upper hand, and we left the road to Ubari, which passes
only two wadis, or hollows, called Tekur and Uglah, both with
bad water, to the west, and followed the road to Ugrefe.
About four o'clock in the afternoon we encamped in the Wadi
Mukmeda, near the sand-hills bordering its southern side, under
the shade of a wild palm-bush. Close to it was very good wa
ter only two feet below the surface ; but as the hole had only
just been made, it contained much sulphureted hydrogen. The
following day we crossed several smaller valleys with a few
palm-trees (but a larger grove adorned the Wadi Jemal), all be
longing to one of our camel-drivers of the name of Bu Bakr.
He also possessed here a magazine, built of bricks, and probably
several centuries old, but entirely covered with sand, where he
had deposited forty camel-loads of dates. They were of the
kind called tefsirt, of very large size and exquisite taste, and
were eagerly devoured by our people. After having refreshed
ourselves for a moment, we went on, having just before us the
very steepest ascent that occurs on the whole road. I was
obhged to dismount from my beautiful Bu-Sefi in order to get
him over it. This ridge being once behind us, we were told
that all the " war" was over ; there were, however, still a few
" difficult passes" before us. In the Wadi Gellah, which we
next crossed, we found the footsteps of a flock of sheep and
of a single camel, which latter animal finds plenty of food in
this sandy district, and, at the shallow well in Wadi Uglah, is

142 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
able to quench its thirst without the assistance of man. Thence
we descended into Wadi Tigidefa, where we encamped near a
couple of palm-trees, the only ones in the wadi ; a copious well
of very good water was near them, overshadowed by a thick
cluster of palm-bushes. It was altogether a very satisfactory
camping-ground, except that it swarmed with camel-bugs, as
such places in the desert generally do.
Wednesday, May 1st. With a general impulse of energy, we
started this morning at a very early hour, twenty minutes past
two o'clock in the morning, in order to get out of the sands, and
to arrive in "the Wadi." After seven hours' constant march,
we at length got a fine view of the steep cliffs which inclose the
Wadi on the south side, and which contrasted marvelously with
the white sand-hills in the foreground ; for, stretching out in a
horizontal dark line which faded away at each end, they exhib
ited an illusive picture of a lake spread out before us in the re
mote distance. The cool east wind, which had blown in the
morning, and promised a fine day, changed, as is very common
in these regions, toward noon into a hot south wind, and made
us very uncomfortable and susceptible of the fatigue of a long
march, particularly as the distance proved much greater than
we had expected. Indeed, it was not till nearly two o'clock in
the afternoon that Mr. Richardson and I, who were much in ad
vance of the caravan, reached the border of the Wadi, and
shortly afterward the well Moghras, at the foot of two tall palm-
trees, where we found a woman with two neatly-dressed chil
dren. They belonged to the Azkar - Tawarek, who, leaving
their miserable abodes, migrate to these more fertile districts,
where they build themselves light cottages of palm-branches,
and indulge in a patriarchal life, breeding camels and rearing
sheep. Near almost every village in the Wadi, outside the
palm-grove, in the bare naked bottom of the valley, these poor
people form a sort of suburb of frail huts ; but nevertheless
they keep up family ties with their brethren near Ghat, and re
spect in some degree the authority of the chief Nakhnukhen.
That this state of things might become very unfavorable to Fez
zan in an outbreak of hostilities between the Turks and the

REACH THE WADI.— UGREFE.

143

Tawarek, is obvious ; I shall have occasion to say more on this
subject further on. A belt of saline incrustation, of more than
half a mile in breadth, runs through the middle of the valley,
forming a line of demarcation between the separate palm-groups
and the continuous grove.
On reaching this grove we soon caught sight of the famous
yillage Ugrefe, the residence of our camel-drivers, which was to
them the grand point of attraction, and, in truth, the only cause
of our taking this westerly route. It consisted of about thirty
light and low dwellings made of clay and palm-branches, and
lay near an open space where we were desired to encamp ; but,
longing for shade, we went a little further on, and encamped
near two splendid ethel-trees (Tamarix orientalis), the largest I
ever saw before I reached E'geri. When the camels came up
and the tents were pitched, the encampment proved most agree
able.

Early next morning I was again in motion, roving over the
plantation, and was very much pleased with its general charac
ter. The corn, which was a fine crop, was just ripe and about
to be harvested ; and close to our camping-ground two negro

144 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
slaves were employed in cutting it, while three or four negresses
carried it away to the stores. The negroes were powerful
young fellows; the women were rather ugly, excepting one,
who had a very handsome figure, and by coquettish demeanor
tried to make herself more attractive. All of them accompanied
their work with singing and wanton movements, and gave dis
tinct manifestations of the customs of this district, which is no
torious for the familiarity of its female inhabitants with the
large caravans of pilgrims who annually pass through the Wadi
on their way to or from Mekka. The fields are watered from
large holes or wells, which are sunk through layers of variegated
marl. Being anxious to visit Old Germa, and to convince myself of
its identity with the Garama of the Romans, I hired a miserable
little donkey, and, accompanied by the stupid young son of
Sbaeda, set out on an exploring expedition into the eastern part
of the valley. Keeping iri general along the southern border
of the plantation, and having on my right the precipitous rocky
cliff of from 300 to 400 feet elevation, I went on slowly till I
reached the southwest corner of Jerma kadim, fortified with a
quadrangular tower built of clay, and exhibiting a very curious
arrangement in its interior. The whole circumference of the
town, which was deserted long ago, is about 5000 paces. Here,
near the town, there are no Roman ruins whatever, but the re
mains of several large and strong towers, built of clay, are to be
seen a little farther on ; and, being unable to make out the sep
ulchre described by Dr. Oudney,* I was obliged to go to Ta-
wash, the village inhabited by the Merabetin. It is divided
into three distinct parts, a Tarki village, consisting of huts of
palm-branches, an outer suburb of scattered dwellings built of
clay, and a small quadrangular place of very regular shape, sur
rounded by earthern walls, and furnished with two gates, one
on the east, and the other on the west side, and regular streets
crossing at right angles. Having here obtained a guide from
Haj Mohammed S'aidi, a wealthy man and the owner of almost
all our camels, I started for the Roman monument, situated in
* Excursion to the AVestward of Mourzuk, p. xlvii., Denham and Clapperton.

THE LAST ROMAN MONUMENT. 145
a wide opening of the southern recess. I found it in tolerably
good preservation, and without delay made a sketch of it, as it
seemed to me to be an object of special interest as the southern
most relic of the Roman dominion. It is a remarkable fact,
that several years before the beginning of our era the Romans
should have penetrated so far as this place ; and that their do
minion here was not of a merely transitory nature, this monu
ment seems clearly to show. It is only one story high, and

seems never to have been loftier. This is evidently character
istic of the age in which it was built, and I am persuaded that
it is not later than the time of Augustus. Those high steeple-
tombs which I have described above seem not to have come
into fashion before the middle of the 2d century after Christ*
The base measures 7 ft. 9^ in. on the west and east sides, and
* Lucius Ealbus Gaditanus, the conqueror of Cy damus (Ghadames) as well as of
Garama (Jerma), celebrated his triumph in the year 18 B.C. or A.U. 735. (Plin.,
N. H., 1. v., c. 5 ; Velleius Patercul., ii., 51 ; Strabo, iii., 169 ;. Marmor Capitolin.)
The names and pictures of the other nations and towns, which Balbus carried in
his triumph (Plinius, 1. c), were evidently a mere show, comprising, most prob
ably, all the information which he had been able to obtain of the interior.
-Vol. I.— K '

146 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
at least 7 ft. 4 in. on the other two sides, including a spacious
sepulchral chamber or burial-room ; but while the base fonns
almost a quadrangle, the sides of the principal structure are of
very different dimensions, measuring not more than 5 ft. 8£ in.
on the north and south, and 7 ft. on the west and east sides.
It is adorned with pilasters of the Corinthian order. The whole
monument is covered with Tefinagh or Berber writing, which
was not only intelligible to me, but also to our young camel-
driver 'Ali Karamra, whose family lives in this part of the wadi,
in a homely little dwelling of palm-leaves. However, as the
writing was very careless, and my time was fully taken up with
sketching the more important subjects, I did not copy the in
scriptions, which indeed are only names ; but, of course, even
names might contribute something toward elucidating the his
tory of the country.
By a direct path I returned from this place to our encamp
ment, and felt rather fatigued, having been in motion during all
the heat of the day. The south wind still increased in the
evening, and we could distinctly see that it was raining toward
the longed-for region whither we were going, while we had noth
ing from it but clouds of sand. Overweg, meanwhile, had as
cended in the morning the highest cliff of the sandstone rocks
forming the southern border of the valley, and had found it to
be 1605 feet high, or 413 feet above the ground at our encamp
ment. Friday, May 3d. Having heard, the day before, in the village
of the Merabetin, that Haj Mohammed, the owner of our cam
els, ordered the boy who was with me to tell Sbaedo, his father,
that they should not start before this evening, I was not sur
prised at our camel-drivers not bringing the camels in the morn
ing. It was almost four o'clock in the afternoon when Over
weg and I at length pushed on, entering the extensive grove of
New Jerma — a miserable place, which, being entirely shut in by
the palm-grove, is almost deserted. The grove, however, ex
hibited a very interesting aspect, all the trees being furnished
with a thick cluster of palm-bush at their roots, while the old
•dry leaves were left hanging down underneath the young fresh

THE GROVES OF THE WADI. 147
crown, and even lower down the stem, not being cut off so short
as is customary near the coast. But picturesque as the state
of the trees was, it did not argue much in- favor of the industry
of the inhabitants ; for it is well-known to Eastern travelers
that the palm-tree is most picturesque in its wildest state. Be
yond the town the grove becomes thinner, and the ethel-tree pre
dominates over the palm-tree ; but there is much palm-bush.
We entered another grove, which stretches far northward into
the valley, its produce being, according to our camel-drivers, en
tirely reserved for the poor. Having passed Tawash, with its
Httle grove, we entered the fine plantation of Brek, enlivened by
the bleating of sheep and goats. Here, in the small fields where
corn is cultivated, the ground is thickly incrusted with salt and
soda. We at length encamped near the grove of Tewiwa, close
to the village of the same name, and to the north side of the
Merabet Sidi e' Salam.
The next morning, while the camels were loading, I visited
the interior of the village. The walls have given way in several
places, and the whole made the impression of a half-deserted
place ; but the little kasbah, which is never wanting in any of
these towns, was in tolerable condition. One of the inhabitants,
on being asked why the viUage was so much decayed, told me
that a torrent had destroyed a great portion of it nine years ago,
in consequence of which the greater part of its population had
dispersed abroad, only about twenty families now remaining.
But this is the condition of nearly all the places in Fezzan ; and
it can be partiaUy accounted for only by supposing that many
of the male inhabitants go off to Negroland, to avoid being made
soldiers. A very extensive grove belongs to Tewiwa ; but the
plain between the village and the rocks is rather open, only a
few patches of corn-field being scattered thereabouts. Three
vast and detached buttresses, which jut out from the cliffs into
the plain, give a very picturesque appearance to the groves and
villages which we passed on our route.
We were just proceeding in the best manner, when a halt was
ordered, from very insufficient reasons, a little south from the
village Tekertiba, where we were to pass the heat. Meanwhile

148 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
I ascended a ridge of rocks, which, a little farther down, crossed
the valley from the southern border. The ridge was a narrow,,
steep, waU-like cliff, which afforded a very interesting view of
the end, or rather beginning, of the fertile Wadi, which was close
at hand.
From the highest point of the ridge I descended northward,
crossing a small defile, which is formed between the two rocky
buttresses to the north and south, the latter being the more con
siderable. Along it runs a path, connecting the two valleys.
Here I obtained a view of the fresh green valley on the one side,
and the destructive sand-hills on the other, and directed my
steps to the plantation, where young people were busily engaged
in drawmg water from the large pond-like wells. The beams,
by means of which the water is drawn up, require to be strongly
constructed, the whole of the khattar having a height of from
sixty to eighty feet. These draw-wells are always placed in
pairs ; and a couple of miserable asses, partners in suffering, do
aU the work. The young male laborers aU wore straw-hats, and
had an energetic appearance.
The northern border of the plantation is now menaced by the
approach of the sand-hills, which have already overwhelmed the
last range of palm-trees. There is a curious tradition in Teker-
tiba,that from the highest peak of the cliffs bordering the valley
on the south side, a rivulet or brook, issuing from a spring, runs
down into the valley underground. There were, it is related,
originally several canals or stream-works leading down to this
subterranean aqueduct ; but they have been all fiUed up. The
village itself, on the south border of the plantation, is tolerably
large, but is inhabited by only forty families at the utmost,
though it is the most populous place in the valley next to Ubari.
By the exertion of much energy, I at length succeeded in the
afternoon in getting our little caravan again under way ; and we
left the Great Wadi through the defile, which appears to have
been once defended by walls, and, having crossed some irregular
depressed plains, encamped at seven o'clock in the evening in a
wadi with a moderate supply of herbage. Starting on the fol
lowing morning at an early hour, we soon emerged into a more

ARRIVAL AT MU'RZUK. 149
open level, beautifuUy adorned with fine talha-trees, and, having
with difficulty dragged on our camel-drivers, who shortly after
ward wanted to encamp in Wadi Resan, we entered a dreary
wilderness, from which we did not emerge till we arrived at the
plantation of Aghar, where we encamped.
Monday, May 6th. All the people were eager to reach to-day
the first great station of the journey ; but, owing to the straying
of some of the camels, we were unable to start quite as early as
we wished. The country in general was very sterile, presenting
only a few smaU date-groves, which we passed at greater or less
distance, and at length, when we reached the plantation of Mur
zuk itself, we were far from finding in it that picturesque and
refreshing character which we had admired in the palm-groves
of the Wadi. These had formed a dense beautiful shade and fine
groups, while the plantation of Murzuk was scattered about in
thin growth, so that it was scarcely possible to determine exact
ly where it began or where it ended. Thus we reached the wall
of the town, built of a sort of clay glittering with saline incrust
ations ; and going round the whole western and northern sides,
which have no gate wide enough for a caravan, we halted on the
eastern side of the town, not far from the camp of the pilgrims
who were returning from Egypt to Marocco and Tawat, till Mr.
Gagliuffi came out of the town and brought us in. Mr. Rich
ardson had arrived about an hour before us. I was lodged in a
cool and airy room on the N. E. corner of Mr. Gagliuffi's house,
which had within the court a very pleasant half-covered hall.
Mr. Gagliuffi treated us with all possible hospitality, and did all
in his power to render our stay in the town agreeable.

150 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

CHAPTER VII.
RESIDENCE IN MURZUK.
Unfortunately, our stay in Murzuk seemed likely to be
come a very long one, as the chiefs from Ghat, who were to take
us under their protection, were not yet sent for. The courier
with our letters, to which was added a missive from the acting
governor promising perfect security to the chiefs, did not set out
tiU the 8th of May. No doubt, in order to visit Air, a country
never before trodden by European foot, with any degree of safe
ty, we wanted some powerful protection ; but it was very ques
tionable whether any of the chiefs of Ghat could afford us such,
while the sending for them expressly to come to Murzuk to
fetch us would, of course, raise their pretensions very high, and in
the same degree those of other chiefs whose territory we should
enter hereafter. Be this as it may, this mode of procedure
having been once adopted, the question arose whether all three
of us should proceed to Ghat ; and it was decided, the very
next day after our arrival, that the director of the expedition
alone (Mr. Richardson) should touch at that place, in order to
make, if possible, a treaty with the chiefs in that quarter, while
Mr. Overweg and I were to proceed with the caravan by the
southern route directly to the well Arikim, and there to await
Mr. Richardson.
ProvidentiaUy, a man had been sent to act as mediator be
tween us and the countries to which we were about to direct our
steps. He had been recommended to us in the very strongest
terms by Hassan Basha, the former governor of Fezzan, whom
we had frequently seen in Tripoli, and who knew something
about the men of influence and authority in Negroland. This
man was Mohammed Boro, who, with the title Serki-n-turawa,
"Lord of the Whites," resided generaUy in A'gades, but had
also a house and many connections in Sokoto, and at present

delay. 151
was on his home journey from a pUgrimage to Mekka. It was
a great pity that Mr. Gagliuffi, H. M.'s agent and our host, in
fluenced I know not by whom, greatly underrated the impor
tance of this man, and treated him with very Httle consideration.
He was represented to us as an intriguer, who, besides, arro
gated to himself much more consequence than he was reaUy en
titled to — a man, in short, whose friendship was scarcely worth
cultivating, at least not at any sacrifice.
Mohammed Boro called upon us on the 8th of May at Gagli-
uffi's house. He was an elderly, respectable -looking man,
wearing a green bernus over white under-clothes. He could
speak but little Arabic, but received Mr. Gagliuffi's empty and
rather ironical assurances that the whole welfare and success of
the expedition were placed in his (Mohammed Boro's) hands
with a continual strain of " el hamdu HUahi"s. In his company
were his eldest son and another man of Asben. He afterward
sent us some guro, or kola-nuts, of which he seemed to have a
great stock, and which he also sold in the market. Gagliuffi
sent him, as an acknowledgment, a very lean sheep, which, with
a smaU loaf of sugar, was all he got from us in Murzuk. In
stead of gaining his friendship, this treatment served only to
irritate him, and was productive of some very bad consequences
for us. This interesting person wiU appear in his true charac
ter and importance in the course of this narrative.
The appearance of Murzuk is rather picturesque, but its ex
treme aridity is felt at once, and this feeling grows stronger on
a prolonged residence.* Even in the plantation which sur
rounds it there are only a few favored spots where, under the
protection of a deeper shade of the date-trees, a few fruit-trees
can be cultivated, such as pomegranates, figs, and peaches. Cu-
Hnary vegetables, including onions, are extremely scarce ; milk,
except a little from the goats, is, of course, out of the question.
* I will here only remark that the degree of heat observed here by Captain
Lyon, which has astonished and perplexed all scientific men, is not the real state
of the atmosphere, but evidently depended upon the peculiar character of the
locality where that enterprising and meritorious traveler had placed his ther
mometer.

152 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
The town lies in a flat hollow, "Hofrah," which is the ap
propriate native name of the district, but nevertheless at the
considerable elevation of 1495 ft., surrounded by ridges of sand;
and in this hollow lies scattered the plantation, without the least
symmetry of arrangement or mark of order. In some places it
forms a long. narrow strip, extending to a great distance, in oth
ers a detached grove, while on the southeast side of the town
the desert approaches close to the walls in a deep inlet. To
ward the east a little grove apart forms, as it were, an advanced
post. The densest and finest part of the grove is toward the
north, where also are the greatest number of gardens and fieldfl
in which wheat, barley, gedheb (or, rather, kedheb), and a few
vegetables, are cultivated with much labor. In the same quar
ter also the greatest number of cottages are to be found, inclul8-
ing huts (large and small) made of palm-branches, the fornrer
consisting of several apartments and a small court-yard, th^
latter having generally only one room of very narrow dimerir
sions. ',>
In the midst of this plantation lies Murzuk. It is situated
so as not to face the cardinal points, but with a deviation from
them of thirty degrees, the north side running N. 30° E., S.30°
W., and so on: it is less than two miles in circumference. The,t|
walls, built of clay, with round and pointed bastions, but partly ^
in bad repair, have two gates, the largest on the east, and the™
other on the west side. There is only a very small gate onjj
the north side, and there is none toward the south. This quar
ter of the town has been greatly contracted by 'Abd el JeliI, as
the remains of the old wall of the time of Mukni clearly show,; '(
but the town is still much too large for its scanty population,
which is said now to amount to 2800, and the greatest part of
it, especiaUy in the quarters most distant from the bazar, is
thinly inhabited and half in ruins. The characteristic feature
of the town, which shows that it has more points of relation
with Negroland than with the lands of the Arabs, is the spacious
road or " dendal" stretching out from the eastern gate as far as
the castle, and making the principal part of the town more airy,
but also infinitely more exposed to the heat.

GROUND-PLAN OF MU'RZUK.

155

The bazar, of course, is the most frequented part of the town.
It lies nearly half way between the east and west gates, but a
Httle nearer to the former, and affords, with its halls of palm-
stems, a very comfortable place for the seUers and buyers. The
watch-house at the east end of the bazar, and almost opposite
Mr. Gagliuffi's house (from the terrace of which the accompany
ing view was taken), is ornamented with a portico of six col
umns, which adds to the neat appearance of this quarter of the
town. The kasbah is the same as in Captain Lyon's time, with
its immense walls and small apartments ; but the outer court
has been much improved by the buUding of a barrack or kish-
lah, wliich now forms its northern portion. It is a large quad
rangular buUding, with a spacious esplanade in the interior,
around which are arranged the principal apartments. The build
ing is said to be capable of containing 2000 men, though at
present there are but 400 in the garrison, who are well lodged
and fed.
The accompanying sketch of a ground-plan will give a toler
ably exact idea of the whole character of the town.

1. Custom-house.
2. Guard-house.
3. Watch-house.
4. Mr. Gagliuffi's house.
5. Garden

6. House of the agent of Bornu.
7. Mosque.
8. First court-yard of kasbah.
9. Kishla.
10. Staircase leading to the upper apart-

With regard to commerce, the condition of Murzuk is very

156 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
different from that of Ghadames. The latter is the residence
of wealthy merchants, who embark all their capital in commer
cial enterprises, and bring home their own merchandise. But
Murzuk is rather the thoroughfare than the seat of a consider
able commerce, the whole annual value of imports and exports
amounting, in a round sum, to 100,000 Spanish dollars ; and '
the place, therefore, is usuaUy in great want of money, the for
eign merchants, when they have sold their merchandise, carry
ing away its price in specie — the Mejabera to Jalo, the Tebu to
Bilma and Bornu, the people of Tawat and Ghadames to their
respective homes. Few of the principal merchants of Murzuk
are natives of the place. The western or Sudan route is more
favorable to commerce than the route to Bornu. On the latter
the Tawarek are always ready to furnish any number of camels
to carry merchandise and to guarantee their safety, while the
road to Bornu, which is the nearest for Murzuk, is in such a
precarious state that the merchant who selects it must convey
his merchandise on his own camels and at his own risk. As
for the routes through Fezzan, the Hotman, the Zwaya, and
the Megesha are the general carriers of the merchandise; while,
on the route to Sudan, the conveyance at present is wholly in
the hands of the Tinylkum.
As soon as Gagliuffi learned distinctly the plan of our expe
dition, he made an agreement with these people to take our
things as far as Selufiet ; and they were anxious to be off.
After much procrastination, they fixed upon the 6th of June for
taking away the merchandise with which we had been provided
here. We were to follow on the 12th ; but the luggage not
being ready at an early hour, our final departure was fixed for
the 13th.

O'M EL HAMMA'M. 157

CHAPTER VIII.
THE DESERT. — TASAWA. — EXACTIONS OF THE ESCORT. — DELAY
AT ELAWEN.
Thursday, June 13th. Accompanied by Mr. Gagliuffi, the
Greek doctor, and the Bin-basha, we left Murzuk by the west
ern gate. My parting from Mr. Gagliuffi was cordial. He had
received us and treated us hospitably, and had shown an earnest
desire to further our proceedings, and to secure, if possible, the
success of our expedition ; and if, in his commercial transac
tions with the mission, he did not neglect his own advantage,
we could not complain, though it would have been infinitely
better for us if we had been provided with a more useful sort
of merchandise.
In leaving the town, we kept, in general, along the same path
|by which we had first entered it, -and encamped during the hot
Ihours of the day in the scanty shade afforded by the trees of
"Zerghan, the weU close by affording us delicious draughts of
cool water, not at all of that brackish, insipid taste wliich is
common to the water of Fezzan. We had started in the belief
that we should find our luggage in O'm el hammam; but in
this place we learned from the poor ragged people who come oc
casionaUy hither to take care of the trees that it was gone on to
Tigger-urtfn. Not knowing, however, the road to the latter
place, we took the path to O'm el hammam, and encamped
about seven o'clock in the afternoon a little north of it.
O'm el hammam is a half-decayed and deserted village, built
of clay, which is strongly incrusted with salt, the inhabitants at
present living entirely in huts made of palm-branches. The
plantation, being intermixed with a large number of ethel-trees
(Tamarix orientalis), and interspersed with gardens, exhibited
a more varied aspect than is generally the case with these
groves ; and, having pitched our tent near a large ethel-bush,

158 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
we felt very comfortable, especiaUy as we had the good luck to
obtain a few eggs, which, fried with plenty of onions, made a
very palatable supper.
Next morning we directed our course to Tigger-urtin, making
almost a right angle toward the north, and crossing a desolate
plain incrusted with salt, after we had left the fine plantation
of O'm el hammam. Having reached the village of our camel-
drivers, which consists entirely of huts of palm-branches, we
looked long in vain for a tolerable camping-ground, as the strong
wind filled the whole air with sand. At length we pitched our
tents a few paces south from the well. It was an extremely
sultry and oppressive day, and the wind any thing but refresh
ing. In the afternoon we went to pay our compliments to Moham
med Boro, who had left Mtirzuk several days before us. He in
formed us that he had consumed all his provisions, and that he
would have left to-day for Tasawa, in order to replenish his
stores, if he had not seen us coming. We consoled him with
the intimation that we hoped our whole party would be soon
ready for starting, and sent him a quantity of dates and corn.
The next day I went roving through the vaUey, which, a httle
further to the N.W., was much prettier,- and had several fine
clusters of palm-trees ; but the most picturesque object was the
old village, built of clay, now entirely in decay, but surrounded
by a dense group of fine date -trees. Opposite is a sketch
of it.
At the southwest end of the grove also is a little viUage, like
wise deserted. Here I met a Fellata or PuUo slave, a full-
grown man, who, when a young lad, had been carried away
from his native home, somewhere about Kazaure, and since then
had been moiling and toiHng here in this half-deserted valley,
which had become his second home. He told me that fever
had driven away the old inhabitants of the viUage long ago, aft
er which the Tinylkum seem to have taken entire possession
of it, though it is remarkable that its name seems rather to be
long to the Berber language, its original form being Tigger-oden
(ode means the vaUey), which has been changed into the more

SETTING OUT FROM MUTtZUK.

159

general form Tigger-urtin. The whole valley, which makes a
turn toward the southwest, is full of ethel-bush, and affords shel
ter to a number of doves. Groups of palm-trees are scattered
about. June 16th. In the morning I took a walk round the viUage
of the Tinylkum, which exhibited some lively and interesting
scenes. AU the men were saying their prayers together upon
a sand-hiU on the north side of the principal cluster of cottages,
while the women were busy in getting ready the provisions for
the long journey about to be undertaken by their husbands,
and the chUdren were playing among them. About fifty or
sixty huts were lying hereabouts, most of them formed into
groups, others more detached. Some of them had.pointed roofs,
while others were flat-roofed ; but all of them had a neat and
orderly appearance. Besides camels, which constitute their
principal wealth, as by means of them they are enabled to un
dertake those long annual journeys to Sudan, they possess a
good many sheep. Two of our camel-drivers, Ibrahim and
Sfiman, whom I shall have occasion to mention repeatedly, to
gether with their mother and sister, were in possession of a

160 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
flock of about 200 head, which they were sending to the fine
pasture-grounds of Terhen in Wadi Berjush. Besides the lat
ter valley, the Tinylkum also use the valley Taderart as their
, chief pasture-grounds.
On the E.N.E. side of the village rose a hill about 100 feet
high, and affording a fine view over the valley-plain. From its
highest summit, where a niche for prayers has been laid out
with stones on the ground, it stretches from east to west, and
forms a kind of separation in the flat valley, limiting the ethel-
tree to its western part, all the sand-hills in the eastern prolon
gation being covered with palm bushes, which, from a distance,
have the appearance of a thick grove. Descending from this
hiU northward, I came to the handsomely-decorated sepulchre of
Haj Salemi, the brother of the sheikh, who resides in Murzuk,
and farther on met a party of Tinylkum en route for the wadi,
where numbers of them are residing. Another division dwells
about Sebhha ; but the whole body of the tribe comprises from
350 to 400 families, which are united by the closest bonds, and
act as one body — "like meal" (to use their own expression)
"falling through the numerous holes of a sieve into one pot."
About noon arrived the pilgrim-caravan of the Tawati, which
had been long encamped near Murzuk, on their way home ; it
had been this' year only 114 persons strong, with 70 muskets,
while sometimes it musters as many as 500 persons. Their
chief, or sheikh el rakeb, was an intelHgent person of the name
of 'Abd el Kader, a native of Timimun, who had been leader of
the caravan several times. They encamped at no great distance
from us on the open ground.
Being obliged to buy another camel for myself (in order to he
able to mount our servant Mohammed el Tunsi on a camel of
our own, the Tinylkum being very particular about their beasts,
and not liking to see a man often mounting them), I bought, in
the afternoon, a fine tall meheri from Haj Mohammed for 69
Fezzan riyals, or 55 Spanish dollars.
June 11th. I made a longer excursion along the eastern part
of the wadi, which here, where it is lower and collects more hu
midity, is adorned with some beautiful wild groups of palm-trees

GATHERING OF THE CARAVAN. 161
left quite to themselves ; the valley extends toward Wadi Ghod-
wa, which it joins. Keeping on in that direction, I came to a
poor hamlet caUed Marhhaba, inhabited by a few families, who
bitterly complained of their poverty. Here was formerly a vil
lage built of clay, and a large spacious castle about sixty-five
paces square. All is now deserted, and only a small part of
the available ground is under culture, forming about six or sev
en small fields. The same picture is met with aU over Fezzan,
where the only places exhibiting to the eye some degree of life
and prosperity are Sokna and Murzuk. The population of this
wide expanse of country falls short of even sixty thousand
souls. The heat of the day had already set in when I returned to
the tents, where I was extremely rejoiced to see the different
members of our caravan coUecting at last, so as to afford a fair
prospect of our soon setting out for unknown and more inter
esting regions. There had arrived Mohammed el Sfaksi, a man
with whom Mr. Gagliuffi had entered into a sort of partnership
for a commercial journey to Negroland, and whom he had sup
plied with a tolerable amount of merchandise, and in the after
noon came the boat. The following day Yusuf Mukni, Mr.
Richardson's interpreter, came with the rest of the luggage, so
that gradually every thing fell into its right place, and nothing-
was now wanting but the Tawarek chiefs to set our whole body
in regular motion. We therefore procured a load of dates from
Aghar, and, getting every thing ready, roused our spirits for the
contemplation of novelties and the encountering of difficulties ;
for the latter could certainly not be wanting where the former
were at hand.
Wednesday, June 19th. While the. greater part of the cara
van took the direct road to the well Sharaba, Mr. Overweg and
I, with the remainder, chose the road to Tessawa, or, rather,
more accurately, Tasawa ; but, though our party formed but a
smaU body of people, yet it presented a very animated spectacle.
The lazy Arab mode of letting the camels go singly, as they
like, straggling about right and left, strains and fatigues the
traveler's attention ; but his mind is stimulated and nerved to
Vol. I.— L

162 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the contemplation' of great distances to be traversed when he
sees a long line of camels attached one to the other, and led by
a man at a steady pace without any halt or interruption. As
for myself, riding my own meheri, I was quite at liberty to go
before or fall behind, just as the circumstances of the road call
ed for observation, or presented something worthy of attention.
Having passed some tolerably deep sand-hUls accumulated in
the wadi, we obtained a sight of an advanced spur of the plan
tation of Aghar to our left, when the ground became firm and
the country more open. Then, keeping along the southern bor
der of the principal plantation, we passed the village and our
former camping-ground, and having left farther on some desert
ed villages and a few scattered huts of palm-leaves, stiU inhab
ited, a little on one side, about noon we again entered a sandy
region with a few detached palm-groups. Here I observed a
specimen of a very rare sort of bifurcated or divided palm-tree
(not the dtim, which is generally so), with two distinct tufts
hanging down on the opposite sides : this is the only specimen
I ever saw. We then passed the village of Tasawa,* which,
with its clay walls and towers, looks much more considerable
from afar than it appears when viewed from among the deserted
houses within it ; still it is one of the more wealthy and import
ant places of the country. A little beyond it we encamped on
the open sandy ground, when, as our smaU tent had by mistake
gone on in advance, and our large tent was too bulky to be
pitched for one night's rest, we contrived a very tolerable airy
shade with our carpets.
We had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we re
ceived the joyful news that Hatita, with two sons of Shafo,had
just arrived from Ghat,«and were about to call on us. Their
arrival, of course, had now become a matter of the utmost im
portance, as Mr. Richardson had made his mind up not to start
without them, though it might have been clear, to every one well
acquainted with the state of things in the interior, that their pro-
* This is evidently a Central African name, and appears to belong to the
original black population of Fezzan. But it seems to stand in some sort of rela
tionship to Asawa, the name of one of the original seats of the Auraghen.

REFORMATION OF ISLA'M. 163
tection could nqt be the least guarantee for our favorable recep
tion and success in the country of Air or Asben, inhabited and
governed by an entirely distinct tribe. And, on the other hand,
the arrival of these chiefs made our relation to Mohammed Boro
extremely disagreeable ; for, after waiting so long for us, he now
clearly saw that Mr. Gagliuffi, in declaring that we relied entirely
on him for success, while we were, in fact, placing ourselves whol
ly at the disposal of the chiefs of Ghat, was only trifling with
him. He therefore flew into a violent passion, threatening open
ly before the people that he would take care that we should be
attacked on the road by his countrymen ; and these were not
empty threats.
After a hot day followed a very fine evening, with a beauti
fuUy -clear moonlight; and cherishing the fervent hope that,
with the assistance of the Almighty, I should succeed in my
dangerous undertaking, I lay down in the open encampment, and
listened with hearty sympathy to the fervent prayers of the Tin
ylkum, which, in melodious cadence, and accompanied with the
sound ha, ha, sometimes in a voice of thunder, at others in a
melancholy, unearthly plaint, were well adapted to make a deep
impression upon the mind, the tall palm-trees forming majestic
groups, and giving a fanciful character to the landscape in the
calm moonlight.
It is a remarkable fact that, while the Mohammedan religion
in general is manifestly sinking to corruption along the coast,
there are ascetic sects rising up in the interior which unite its
last zealous followers by a religious band. The particular sect
to which belong the Tinylkum, who in general are Maleki, has
been founded by Mohammed el Medani, who established a sort
of convent or oratory (zawiya) near Masrata, and endowed it
with a certain extent of landed property, from the produce of
which he fed many pilgrims. The best feature of this creed is
the abolition of the veneration of dead saints, which has sullied
in so high a degree the purity of Islam. Mohammed el Medani
is said to have died a short time ago ; but his son continues the
pious establishment.* It is a sort of freemasonry, and promises
* From what Major Burton says in his " Pilgrimage," vol. ii., p. 390, it would

164 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
to make a great many proselytes. I am not ope of those who
think it a sign of progress when Mohammedans become indiffer
ent to the precepts of their religion, and learn to indulge in
drinking and such things ; for I have not given up my belief that
there is a vital principle in Islam, which has only to be brought
out by a reformer in order to accomplish great things.
In Tasawa also reside a few Tinylkum, who, however, have
been intimately intermixed with the Arabs, while the others in
general keep their blood pure, and do not intermarry with the
people of Fezzan.
Having assured ourselves that, owing to the arrival of the
Tawarek chiefs, we should have to make some stay here, we de
termined to pitch our large tent early the next morning, while
the chiefs had a long dispute with Mohammed e' Sfaksi, the sub
ject of which I must relate, as it throws some light on the his
tory and the present state of this country. The northern Ta
warek, when they occupied the country round Ghat, established
a sort of tribute, or gherama, to be paid by merchants passing
.through their territory, and on payment of which the trader
should be no further molested, but enjoy full protection. At
that time the Masrata — a section of a very powerful Berber tribe
— had made, as we shaU see, a colonial settlement in A'gades,
and, owing to their great power, commercial activity, and near
connection with the Tawarek, were considered whoUy exempt
from any tribute, while the inhabitants of Tunis, who seem to
have excited the jealousy or hostihty of the great lords of the
desert, were subjected to the highest personal exaction, viz., ten
dollars a head. Now Gagliuffi's partner was a native of Sfakes;
but, having long resided in Masrata, he insisted upon being free
from tribute, like the inhabitants of the latter place ; but our
friends were not to be cheated out of their right, and made him
pay as a Tunisian.
Having settled this little business, they came to us. There
were Hatita Inek (the son of) Khoden of the Manghasatangh,
Utaeti (tlie eldest son of Shafo), a younger son of the latter, and
appear that Mohammed Ibn 'Abdallah e' Snu'si, which is his full name, is still
living.

RETURN TO MU'RZUK. 165
several more. The first, who had enjoyed the friendship of
Captain Lyon, behaved throughout like a man well acquainted
with Europeans ; but Utaeti conducted himself like a strict Tar-
ki, neither showing his face nor speaking a single word. Hatita
expressed the wish that we should not proceed until he returned
from Murzuk, where he assured us he would remain but a short
time ; and we engaged to do our best to keep back the camel-
drivers, who were but little inclined to stay here long.
In consequence of this state of things, I determined to return
to the town, in order to ascertain the terms entered into between
the parties ; and accordingly, starting at five in the evening, and
resting a few minutes after midnight in Zerghan, I reached Mur
zuk on Friday morning at seven o'clock. I found that Mr. Gag
liuffi had been very ill during the hot weather of the last few
days, but to-day he was fortunately a little better.
Having waited in vain for the chiefs the whole of Saturday,
we received a visit from them on Sunday, when they appeared
in the finery with which they had been dressed by Mustapha
Bey, but would not come to any terms ; and it was not till
Monday, when they took up their residence in the house belong
ing formerly to Mukni, but now to the Wakil of Borno, that
they concluded an arrangement. The sum which they then re
ceived would have been moderate had they undertaken to see
us safe under the protection of Annur, the chief of the Kel-owi.
I urged, with Mr. Gagliuffi, the necessity of having a written
copy of the agreement ; but to this the chief would not listen,
and thus confessed that there was really no distinct contract, as
we had been given to understand, to the effect that Utaeti
should not leave us till he had committed us to the care of the
chief Annur.
This business being concluded, I was in great haste to return
to Tasawa ; and starting immediately afterward, at one o'clock
in the afternoon, arrived at our tent a little before midnight.
Our tent, indeed, was still there ; but all the Tinylkum (Musa
alone excepted) and all our things were gone on, and Overweg
and I were obliged to follow the next day, without waiting for
Mr. Richardson.

166 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Accordingly, on the 25th of June we left Tasawa, and, after
having crossed some sand-hills, entered upon harder soil, with
ethel-bushes crowning the little hills, the whole- scene making
the impression that a considerable current of water had at one
period flowed along here and carried away the soil, which had
once extended to the top of the hUls. The whole district, which
is a narrow and very long strip of land, affording a little herb
age for cattle and sheep, bears the name of Wadi Aberjush or
Berjush, and soon exhibits a more pleasant character ; the en
circling borders increase a little in height, while the sand ceases
and a great deal of herbage begins to cover the soil. But after
about another hour's march we entered upon pebbly ground like
that of the Hammada, and continued descending through a bare
country tUl we reached the well Sharaba, where we encamped
a little to the north, near a talha-bush. It is an open well,
only three feet below the surface of the ground, which here
forms a very remarkable hoUow, almost six hundred feet below
the level of Murzuk, but nevertheless contains water only for
two or three months in the year. It is, however, evident that,
in case of heavy rains, a large pond or lake must be temporarily
formed here by the torrent, which, sweeping along Wadi Ber
jush, finds no outlet.
Toward evening the locaHty was enHvened for a short time by
a smaU slave-caravan, led by Mohammed Trumba or 'Akerut,
an active, energetic man, whom I met several times in the
course of my travels, and incurred some obligation toward him,
as it was he who, on my setting out from Zinder to Timbuktu
in the beginning of 1853, brought me a supply of one thousand
dollars, without which I could scarcely have succeeded in my
undertaking. He had come in only sixty-five days from Zin
der, and thirty-three from Asben, having been obliged to pursue
his journey as fast as possible, because, owing to the expedition
of the Kel-owi against the Welad Sliman, provisions were very
scarce in Asben. He estimated the number of fighting men
who had gone on that expedition at seven thousand, and stated
that the Tawarek were acting in concert with the Daza, a tribe
of Tebu, whose real name is Bulguda. He stated that E'

MOVE ON FINALLY.— SHA'RABA. 167
Nur (or Annur, as the name is pronounced), the chief of the
Kel-owi, was at present in Tasawa (that is to say, the town of
that name on the borders of Negroland), but would soon return
to Asben. He confirmed the report of plenty of rain having
fallen in the desert, in consequence of which the wells were full ;
but he begged me to beware of the cold during the nights, which
he represented as very intense. He had twenty-three female
slaves with him and only five camels, and hastened on to Tasa
wa, in order to obtain dates for his famished people.
Wednesday, June 26th. Owing to the camels having strayed,
it was very late when we left our encampment, and entered a
sort of flat valley, from which we ascended to a higher level.
From this we obtained a distant glance, toward the W.S.W.,
of the ruins of a fortress caUed Kasr Sharaba, the history of
which, as it is connected with the struggles of yore between the
Tebu and the inhabitants of Fezzan, would be fuU of interest,
if it could be made out distinctly. Toward noon the country
wore a more genial aspect, being adorned with several groups
of palm-trees. We had to go round a rather steep hill, about
350 feet high, from the summit of which I obtained an interest
ing view over the desert. The whole country presented a very
irregular structure, and scarcely allowed the continuous line of
the Wadi Berjush to be traced by the eye, hiUs of considerable
height and black pebbly tracts succceeding each other. Over
such a desert we continued our march, until, late in the after
noon, we reached a spot where the sight of a true wadi, full of
herbage and bordered by a strip of talha-trees, gladdened our
hearts, and we encamped. It was a pleasant open ground, and
the night being cool and refreshing, we felt very much invigor
ated when we rose the next morning to continue our march.
The talha-trees continued, but the herbage was principally
limited to resu, an herb which has a very strong taste, and is
not relished by camels for any length of time. The green strip.
took an irregular, winding course, sometimes approaching the
sand-hiUs which we had always on our left at a certain distance,
sometimes keeping more to our right ; and Musa, our grave but
cheerful camel-driver, dwelt in terms of the highest praise on

168 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the great superiority of this wadi, which, he said, is joined by
as many as a hundred smaller branches. It evidently forms
the natural high road between Fezzan and the western desert,
and about a month ago must have exhibited a more varied as
pect, enlivened as it then was by a considerable torrent sweep
ing along it. In the afternoon we saw several spots where the
eddying stream had formed itself a bed about five feet deep, and
had turned up the ground all around ; the crust of mire which
covered the bed of the torrent had not yet dried. We encamp
ed on a pleasant spot called Hamawa, without pitching our tent,
so delighted were we to enjoy the fresh air of the desert. Here
we were joined by a man from Tasawa, who wanted to seize a
debtor, who had attached himself to Boro's party in order to
make his escape into Sudan — a practice very common with the
people of Fezzan.
By repeated measuring with our chain, we had found that, on
tolerably even ground, our ordinary rate as the Tawarek travel
was half an English geographical mile in thirteen minutes. It
is the general custom of these people, who do not allow their
camels to feed on the march, to leave them the whole night on
the pasture, and not to fetch them tiU morning, for which rea
son they never start very early, and often at a rather late hour.
Friday, June 28th. About an hour after we had begun our
march along the line of green herbage, we came to a temporary
well called Ahitsa,* containing very fine rain-water, but only for
a period of about two months in the year. Having filled two
of our water-skins, we continued our march, and soon, to our
great joy, got sight of two white tents belonging the one to Mo
hammed Boro, the other to Mohammed e' Sfaksi, and pointing
out to us the encampment of the earavan. It had been pitched
on open ground, in the midst of the strip of green herbage, and
surrounded with a rich border of talha-trees. The place offered
good pasture for the camels ; and a small encampment of other
Tinylkum, not belonging to our caravan, but merely pasturing
* The commencing vowel-sound " a" is generally inaudible, at least by a
strange ear, if the word be not very distinctly spoken ; but nevertheless it is char
acteristic of these Tawarek names.

JOIN THE CARAVAN.— TESE'MMAK.

169

their camels and goats here, had been formed near the trees.
The whole presented an animated picture. Our camel-drivers
are said to possess, in the sand-hiUs bordering this valley on the
south side, considerable stores of dates and corn, and to have
taken from thence their supplies for the road. The whole char
acter of this landscape appeared to me so peculiar that, the fol
lowing morning before we started, I made a sketch of it from
the elevated stony ground to the north of the channel, which
here exhibited evident traces of a small waterfall formed by the
heavy rains. Stones had been laid here in the form of a circle
as a place of prayer. The whole valley was about four miles
broad ; the locality is called Tesemmak.
When we started next morning we formed a tolerably large

party, with sixty-two camels, which were arranged in four
strings, one of which consisted of thirty-three animals, each fast
ened to the tail of the preceding one. The valley was enliven
ed by a small herd of gazelles, which Overweg and I tried for a
moment to pursue. Having passed a well called Tafiyuk, at a
place where the sand-hills jut out into the valley, we encamped

170 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
about half an hour beyond, near another well containing rain
water for a short time of the year, and caUed- Em-eneza. Two
branches of the wadi unite here ; and distinct traces of the great
force of the last torrent remained in the broken condition of the
ground. Here we remained encamped for the two foUowing days, in
order to allow Mr. Richardson and the Azkar chiefs to come up.
I spent the time sometimes writing and studying, at others rov
ing about or musing while seated on some elevated rocks at the
border of the rising ground. Musa was our constant visitor,
and gave us aU the information required, though he was not
very inteUigent. There had been some small differences between
us and our camel-drivers, who, though in other respects not un
couth or uncivil, had, from religious principles, sometimes as
sumed a rather hostUe position toward us. We now effected a
general reconciliation, and there was every reason to believe
that we should go on well with them.
Tuesday, July 2d. Being informed that our companions were
near, we moved on a little, and at length got out of the eternal
Wadi Aberjush, with all its little side-branches, which are di
vided from the main wadi by a gently-rising ground covered
with black pebbles. Then after a little we reached the Wadi
Elawen, forming a broad depression running from the north,
where it is joined by several branch channels descending from
the plateau toward the sand-hiUs on the south, and encamped
on its western side, between tall sebot shooting up from the sandy
ground, and near some fine talha-trees. We soon discovered, to
our great delight, that only two hundred paces above our en
campment, the floods, descending from the higher ground in two
large branches, and carrying down with them bushes and brush
wood in abundance, had formed a pond at present about 100
feet long and 50 feet broad, which contributed greatly to enliven
the district. AU the world was bathing and playing about the
water ; and flights of thirsty birds, of the kinds JYumida and
Pterocles, were hovering, about, watching a favorable moment
to come in for their share. Every where in the bottom of the
valley there was water at a little depth ; and we obtained ex-

WADI ELA'WEN. 171
ceUent potations from a weU dug by our people close below our
tents. About five o'clock in the afternoon we were at length joined
by Mr. Richardson and the chiefs of the Azkar ; but the unsat
isfactory way in which the business had been concluded with
these chiefs in Murzuk led to a break-up sooner even than I had
suspected. The next evening Hatita summoned us to a divan,
and declared distinctly that he required a month's time to make
the necessary preparations for the journey to Air. Hence it
would be necessary for us to separate from the caravan, and,
taking our luggage with us to Ghat, to hire or buy other camels
there. In reply to this unjust and absurd demand, we declared
that we had no other choice but to follow the direct Sudan road
in the company of the caravan, and that it was our firm intention,
at any rate, not to lose more than seven days in Ghat. Hatita
having left us rather dissatisfied at our decision, our servants,
who would gladly have idled away one or two months in Ghat
as they had done in Murzuk, insolently told us that we were
very much mistaken in thinking that the road to Air was in any
degree open to us, for it would first be necessary to send a cou
rier to ask the permission of the chiefs of that country to enter
it, and we must wait for the answer.
While remaining, firm in our resolution, we of course consent
ed to go to Ghat, and tried at the same time to come to some
final arrangement with our camel- drivers, promising them a
small aUowance for every day they should wait for us. They
at length promised to spend ten days on the way to Arikim, a
weU three days' march south from Ghat, where they would wait
six days, and then go on directly to Air. Attacking the old
chief, therefore, on his weakest side, we sent him word the next
morning that, as we had but little money with us, he would not
succeed in getting any thing of value from us if he should try to
keep us in Ghat for any length of time ; and I insisted, with
Yusuf Mukni, upon the dishonesty of the chief's conduct in try
ing to make an entirely new bargain after he had got all he de
manded. His answer was satisfactory; and with the fervent
hope that we should not be baffled in our attempt to discover

172 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
new regions and new tribes of men, we left the further develop
ment of the affair to time.
While these disputes were going on, I employed my leisure
hours in roving about our encampment, in different directions,
up and down the valley. The eastern of the two branches,
which by their junction form the valley, was peculiarly rich in
herbage, and commanded by a hill starting up from the plateau,
which afforded a very interesting view around, though this was
almost surpassed by the prospect from a mound a little to the
W.S.W. of our tent. The lower part of the vaUey was more
diversified by numerous branches, which joined it on the S.E.
side. One of these, which was bordered by high ridges of sand
stone, was evidently a favorite play-ground of the gazelles, the
fresh footmarks of which checkered its sandy bottom like a net.
• Pursuing this direction, I approached the sand-hills which form
the southern border of this whole district.
Fatigued by my long walk, I was the more able in the even
ing to do full justice to our supper, which was diversified by a
variety of birds that had been shot in the course of the day near
the pond.

CHAPTER IX.
SINGULAR SCULPTURES IK THE DESERT. — THE MOUNTAIN PASS.
June 5th. We had to separate from the Tinylkum and from
our luggage without having any certainty as to where and when
we might overtake them. The chiefs of Ghat, too, had started
in advance. The country had been rising all the way from
Wadi Sharaba, which seems to form the lowest point in this
whole region, and we ascended to-day very considerably. Push
ing on in advance of our little troop, and passing a small cara
van which was laden with provisions and merchandise belong
ing to the pilgrim-caravan of the Tawati, I soon came up with
Hatita and his companions. They were civil and kind; but
the old friend of the English, who hud an eye to a new marriage

HATITA. 173
with some pretty Amoshagh girl some forty or fifty years youn
ger than himself, gave me sundry expressive hints that I should
spare him something of my outfit — either a pair of pistols, or a
carpet, or a bernus, or any other little article. My refusal in
no wise rendered him uncivil. While he was riding by my side,
I took the opportunity of making a slight sketch of him, his

English gun, the gift of some previous traveler, forming a strik
ing contrast to his large shield of antelope hide, ornamented
with a cross. Having crossed another valley of some extent,
we descended into Wadi Elghom-ude (the Valley of the Camel),
which, richly clothed with herbage, forms an inlet in the stony
plateau from north to south, and has a very cheerful aspect.
The encampment, spread over a great extent of ground, formed
quite an ethnographical museum, comprising as it did six dis
tinct small caravan-troops from different parts of Africa, and
even of Europe.
Saturday, June 6th. A splendid morning, cool and fresh.
We were happy to meet a-small caravan coming from Sudan,
which brought us some important pieces of news : first, that
they had come to Ghat in the company of five men belonging
to the family of A'nnur (the chief of the Kel-owi), who, after a
short stay, would return to their country ; and, secondly, that
the expedition of the Kel-owi had returned from Kanem, after
having totally annihilated the Welad Sliman. They brought
with them seventeen slaves, among whom were fifteen females,
one with a very engaging countenance. After less than three

174

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

miles' march, our companions looked about in the Wadi Teli
saghe for a camping-ground. The valley proved of more than
ordinary interest. It was hemmed in by steep cliffs of rock,
and adorned with some fine talha-trees. With no great reluc
tance we followed the Tawarek chiefs, who kept along its steep
western border, and at length chose the camping-groundiat a
spot where a western branch joins the principal wadi. Scarcely
had we pitched our tents when we became aware that the val
ley contained some remarkable sculptures deserving our partic
ular attention.
The spot where we had pitched our tents afforded a very fa
vorable locality for commemorating any interesting events, and
the sandstone blocks which studded it were covered with draw
ings representing various subjects, more or less in a state of
preservation. With no pretensions to be regarded as finishef
sculptures, they are made with a firm and heavy hand, well ac
customed to such work, and, being cut to a great depth, bore a
totally different character from what is generally met with in
these tracts.
The most interesting sculpture represented the following sub
ject, the description of which I am unfortunately able at pres
ent to accompany with only an imperfect woodcut, as the draw-

mm:- ¦¦'y$wm£M

SCULPTURES OF TELISAGHE. 177
ing which I made of it on the spot was forwarded by me to En
gland to Mr. Birch, the celebrated Egyptian archaeologist, and
seems to have been mislaid.
The sculpture represents a group of three individuals, of the
following character and arrangement: To the left is seen a
tall human figure, with the head of a peculiar kind of bull, with
long horns turned forward and broken at the point ; instead of
the right arm he has a peculiar organ terminating like an oar,
while in the left hand he carries an arrow and a bow — at least
such is the appearance, though it might be mistaken for a
shield: between his legs a long tail is seen hanging down from
his slender body. The posture of this figure is bent forward,
and aU its movements are weU represented. Opposite to this
curious individual is another of not less remarkable character,
but of smaller proportions, entirely human as far up as the
shoulders, while the head is that of an animal which reminds us
of the Egyptian ibis, without being identical with it. The small
pomted head is furnished with three ears, or with a pair of ears
and some other excrescence, and beyond with a sort of hood
(which, more than any other particular, recalls the idea of
Egyptian art), but it is not furrowed ; over the fore part of the
head is a round line representing some ornament, or perhaps the
basilisc. This figure likewise has a bow in its right hand, but,
as it would seem, no arrow, while the left hand is turned away
from the body.
Between these two half-human figures, which are in a hostile
attitude, is a buUock, small in proportion to the adjacent linea
ments of the human figure, but chiseled with the same care and
the same skillful hand, with the only exception that the feet are
omitted, the legs terminating in points, a defect which I shall
have occasion to notice also in another sculpture. There is
another peculiarity about this figure, the upper part of the bun,
by some accident, having been hollowed out, while in general all
the inner part between the deeply-chiseled outlines of these
sculptures is left in high relief. The animal is turned with its
back toward the figure on the right, whose bow it seems about
to break. The block on which it was sculptured was about
Vol. I.— M

178 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
four feet in breadth and three in height. It was lying loose on
the top of the cliff.
No barbarian could have graven the Hnes with such astonish
ing firmness, and given to all the figures the light, natural shape
which they exhibit. The Romans, who had firmly established
their dominion as far as Garama, or Jerma, might easily have
sent emissaries to this point and even further ; but the sculp
tures have nothing in them of a Roman character. Some few
particulars call to mind the Egyptian sculptures. But, on the
whole, it seems to be a representation of a subject taken from
the native mythology, executed by some one who had been in
intimate relation with the more advanced people on the coast,
perhaps with the Carthaginians. Be this as it may, it is scarce
ly doubted that the subject represents two divinities disputing
over a sacrifice, and that the figure at the left is intended for the
victor. On the cliff itself there is another sculpture on a large block,
which, now that the western end is broken off, is about twelve
feet long and five feet high. The surface of the block is quite
smooth, protected as it has been, in some degree, by the block
above, which projects considerably ; nevertheless, the sculpture
has suffered a good deal. It bears testimony to a state of life
very different from that which we are accustomed to see now in
these regions, and iUustrates and confirms Saint Augustine's*
statement, that the ancient kings of this country made use of
buUs for their conveyance. It represents a dense group of oxen
in a great variety of positions, but all moving toward the right,
where probably, on the end of the stone which is now broken
off, the pond or well was represented from which the beasts
were to be watered. Some of these bulls are admirably exe
cuted, and with a fidelity which can scarcely be accounted for,
unless we suppose that the artist had before his eyes the ani
mals which he chiseled. My sketch gives only a faint idea of
the design, which is really beautiful. The only defect, as I
* Augustin., Op., vol. xvi., p. 526, ed. Bassan. ; " Garamantum regibus tauri
placuerunt.

CATTLE BEASTS OF BURDEN.

179

have already remarked above, is in the feet, which, from some
reason or other, have been negligently treated.

If we consider that the sculpture described is close to a wa
tering-place on the high road to Central Africa, we are reduced
to the conjecture that at that time cattle were not only common
in this region, but even that they were the common beasts of
burden instead of the camel, which we here look for in vain.
Not only has the camel no place among these sculptures, but
even among the rude outlines which at a much later period have
been made on the blocks around, representing buffaloes, os
triches, and another kind of birds, there are no camels ; and it is
a well-known fact that the camel was introduced into the west
ern part of Northern Africa at a much later period.*
There was a similar group on another block of this interest
ing cliff, but too much effaced to allow the particulars to be dis
tinguished ; but the figure of an ass
among the oxen was quite clear, as
weU as that of a horse, which was,
.however, ill drawn. Not far off,
Overweg found another sculptured
stone representing, as the annexed
sketch shows, an ox jumping through
* See my Wanderings along the Shore of the Mediterranean, vol. i., p. 5, ff.
It is, however, to be remarked, that even now, when the quantity of water all
over the ancient world has certainly decreased a great deal, oxen are sometimes
used on this Sudan road by way of Ghat soon after the rains. I have been as
sured that in 1847 or 1848 the well-known Tebu Haj Aberma traveled with oxen
from Kand as far as Ghat, about the time of the 'Aid el kebir — that is to say, in
the month of December — the oxen being watered every second day.

18Q TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
or falling into a ring or hoop, which I should suppose to have
an allegorical meaning, or to represent a sacrifice, rather than,
as Mr. Richardson thought, to represent any games of the cir
cus. There was a circle regularly laid with large blocks of
rock at the southwestern slope of the cliff: these, I should sus
pect, belong to the same period as the sculptures before men
tioned. To a later period belong innumerable inscriptions in Tefinagh,
with which the cliffs on the other side of the valley and over
hanging the water-pond are covered. These are mere scrib-
blings, and are interesting merely as they serve to render evi
dent, by contrast, the superior merit and age of the adjacent
sculptures. It appeared to me remarkable that on this side,
where the water now principaUy coUects, not a single drawing
should be seen ; and I formed the conclusion that in more an
cient times the water coUected in the other side.
The valley is formed by the junction of two branches coming
from the north, of which the western is the more considerable,
being joined by some smaller wadis. Just at the place of our
encampment it changed its direction, and extended from W. to
E., having run in its upper course from N.W. to S.E. After
the junction the valley runs from N. to S., and loses for a mo
ment almost the character of a wadi while running over pebbly
ground; but it soon becomes once more well bordered and
adorned with fine groups of talha-trees, and in some places ex
hibits a river-bed eight feet deep, and stiU wet. Near a shep
herd's cave there was a very luxuriant tree, under whose shade
I lay down. Toward evening the pUgrim-caravan of Haj 'Abd
el Kader, which had delayed so long in the wadi, arrived. The
whole valley resounded with the cries of the men and their
camels, who were aU eagerly pressing toward the pond at the
foot of the steep cliffs. Fortunately, we had already laid in a
supply of water, else we should not have been able to obtain
any fit to drink.
Sunday, July 1th. Owing to the camels having strayed to a
great distance, we started at' a late hour; still leaving the Ta
warek chiefs behind, who wanted to settle some business with

FINE VALLEYS. 181
the Tawati, and, for this purpose, had changed their dirty trav
eling-dress for showy caftans and bemuses. We ascended the
higher level, and continued along it, crossing some small beds
of water-courses overgrown with herbage, till, after a little more
than four miles, we had to, descend into a deep and wild ravine
which led us to a vale. Having again ascended, we then came
to the wide and regular valley caUed Erazar-n-Hagarn6, bor
dered by steep cliffs from 150 to 200 feet high, and richly
clothed with herbage. Following the windings of this large
wadi, which evidently has received its name from the circum
stance that the Hogar or Hagara pasture their camels chiefly
hereabouts, we reached the point where it is joined by the val
ley called A'man semmedne, and encamped near a fine talha-
tree in order to aUow Hatita to come up. This valley has its
name from the cold water which at times descends from the
plateau in floods, of which the deeply-worn channel bears evident
traces ; it is joined at this place by an important branch-valley
and several smaUer ravines.
When the heat of the sun began to decline, I took a walk
through the vaUey ; and being attracted by a circle laid out
very regularly with large slabs like the opening of a well, I be
gan to ascend the steep cliffs opposite the mouth of the vaUey
of A'man semmedne, rising to a height of about 500 feet, and
which, as I clearly saw, had been repeatedly ascended. The
cliffs are here, as is usual in this formation, broken into regular
strata, and steep flat blocks standing upright give them an im
posing appearance. My search here, however, led only to the
discovery of the weU-chiseled form of a single bullock, in ex
actly the same style as that in Wadi Telisaghe, though it had
suffered a Httle from its exposed situation ; but the whole ap
pearance of the locaHty shows that in former times it contained
more of this kind. On the plain above the cliffs is another cir
cle regularly laid out, and, Hke the many circles seen in Cyre
naica and in other parts of Northern Africa, evidently connected
with the religious rites of the ancient inhabitants of these re
gions. Quartz pebbles were scattered about this part of the
valley.

182 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Our people, meanwhile, had been busy laying in provision of
dry herbage for the next marches, during which we were told
our camels would scarcely find any thing to feed upon ; and our
Tawarek friends, when they at length arrived for their supper,
did the same.
Monday, July 8th. The caravan of the Tawati having passed
by our encampment at an early hour, we followed betimes, hav
ing an interesting day's march before us. For the first three
mUes we still kept along the large valley, into which masses of
sand had been driven down from the plateau by the strong east
winds ; farther on it became dry and bare. To this succeeded
an irregular knot of hollows and plains between the sides of the
plateau, which, in some places, formed imposing promontories
and detached buttresses, all on one and the same level. We
then began to ascend along a sort of broad valley, which grad
ually assumed a regular shape, and bore the name of Tfsi.
The slope of the plateau was shaped into regular strata, the up
permost of which form steep precipices like the waUs of a cas
tle ; the lower ones slope down more gradually. Here we dis
covered ahead of us, at the foot of the southern slope, the en
campment of the pilgrim-caravan, who were resting during the
heat of the day. We continued our march, always ascending,
tiU a little after noon we reached the edge of the pass, a perfect
water-shed, of more than 2000 feet elevation, descending more
gradually toward the east as far as the well of Sharaba, while
toward the west it formed a steep precipice, passable only along
a most interesting guUy cut into it by the water toward the Val
ley of Ghat. The higher level, which rises above the pass
about 300 feet, seems to be considerably depressed in this place,
where it collects large floods of water, such as could alone cut
the remarkably wild passage through the sandstone cliffs which
we were about to descend : it is called Ralle.
The first part of it was more rough than wild, and the cliffs
of the sandstone rather rugged and split than precipitous and
grand ; but after half an hour's descent it bore evident traces
of the waters that descend from the heights, and which, being
here collected into one mighty stream, with enormous power

THE NARROW PASS OF RALLE. 183
force their way down through a narrow channel. The defile
was here encompassed by rocky walls about a hundred feet
high, half of which consisted of sandstone, while the other half
was formed by a thick deposit of marl ; and a little farther
down it was not more than six feet wide, and the floor and the
waUs were as smooth as if they had been cut by the hand of
man ; but the course of the defile was rather winding and not
at all in a straight line, forming altogether a pass easily to be
defended by a very small power, and affording the Tawarek a
stronghold against any designs of conquest on the side of the
Turks, although it does not form the frontier, but is regarded
as entirely belonging to Fezzan. At the narrowest point Ta
warek, as weU as Arab travelers, had recorded their names.
Where the channel began to widen, there were some curious
narrow gaps or crevices on both sides, the one to the right, with
its smooth rounded surface, bearing a great similarity to the fa
mous Ear of Dionysius in Syracuse. The walls contained
strata of chalk and ironstone, and Overweg found here some
interesting petrifactions. The crevice to the left was less deep,
and rather resembled a ceU or chamber.
Having here waited some time for the boat to come up, we
started together, but had stiU to get through two more narrow
passes of the wadi, and at four o'clock in the -afternoon entered
another very narrow defile, the steep cliffs forming it being cov
ered with inscriptions. At length, after a descent of altogether
four hours, we emerged into the open plain some 600 feet be
low, and had a wide view of the high precipitous cliffs of the
plateau, stretching out in several buttresses into the plain, which
is interrupted only by detached hills. Among these was a
rather remarkable one upon a terrace-like base, and opening
with three caverns toward the road side. Ascending the ter
race, I found the westernmost of the caverns vaulted, as if by
art, in the shape of a! large niche, but it was a little filled with
sand ; I found, however, no inscriptions, nor any thing but four
round holes, about nine inches in diameter, hollowed out in a
slab on the terrace in front of the cavern. Beyond this hill,
where Hatita told us that he had once passed the heat of the

184 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
day with 'Abd AUah (Clapperton) and the tabib (Oudney), the
country is quite open toward the north. About sunset we en
camped in the deep Erazar-n-Tese ; there were a few talha-trees
and some herbage.
The following day our route lay over the dreary plain, where
nothing but the varied form of the rocky buttresses projecting
from the plateau into the plain interrupted the monotony of the
prospect. Near the slope the country seems a little less deso
late, and the valley Tamelelt, which extends between two of the
promontories, has even a great reputation among the natives.
In the afternoon we entered a sandy region, when we began to
ascend gradually tiU we reached the summit of the sand-hills.
We then continued on the higher level, where chalk protruded
to the surface. After a long march, we encamped on stony
ground covered only with a scanty growth of sebot.
On the 10th we descended a good deal from this higher
ground. At first the descent was gradual, but beyond the val
ley In-kassewa, which, running through high rocky ground, is
not so poor in herbage, we descended about two hundred feet
by steep terraces, having before us the peculiarly serrated crest
of the Akakiis, and in front of it some lower offshoots covered
with sand. The bottom of the plain was a broad and entirely
naked level, with hard calcareous soil, surrounded by irregular,
half-decayed hilly ridges. It forms the boundary between Fez
zan and the country of the Hogar. The character of the coun
try underwent no change till we reached the valley Teliga,
where, at an early hour in the afternoon, we encamped near a
group of talha-trees, not far from the well, and remained for the
next two days at an elevation of 1435 feet.
The valley is very shallow, now and then interrupted by some
sand-hiUs, and adorned with some fine specimens of the ethel-
tree, while broad strips of herbage cover the more favored spots.
It runs N.W., nearly parallel with the range of the Akakiis,
which remained at a distance of three miles. It joins the val
ley Ilaghlaghen, which again unites with the Titabtaren, and
this valley runs toward a favored spot called Serdales, which
we were unfortunately prevented from visiting, as Hatita thought

TELIYA.— SERDALES. 185
we should be annoyed by the begging propensities of the peo
ple. Copious springs, from which the whole locality takes the
name of El Awenat, irrigate and fertilize the soil, and support a
viUage of about the same size as Tigger-ode, inhabited by about
a hundred families, while in the gardens corn, melons, and ghe-
deb are produced in tolerable quantity. The water of the
springs is said to be warm. We saw a party of Hagara from
that place, who called on our friends. They were fine men, and
neatly dressed.
The water of our weU was not very good ; from being at first
discolored, it gradually acquired a taste like that of ink, and
when boded with tea became entirely black. Late in the even
ing, our best and most steady servant, Mohammed, from Gatron,
was wounded, but whether stung by a scorpion or bitten by a
snake he knew not, and was much alarmed. We applied spir
its of hartshorn to the wound ; but he was very ill for the next
twenty-four hours, and totally disabled, so that we were obliged
to bind him on the camel during the next day's march.
Saturday, July 13th. There had been much talk for some
days to the effect that we travelers, together with Hatita, should
take the nearer but more difficult road to Ghat, across the range,
while our luggage should go by the longer but smoother road
round the mountains ; but it was at length decided that we
should all go by the longer road, and none but the Sfaksi, who
was anxious to overtake the caravan as soon as possible, took
the more difficult path, which, for geological observations, might
have proved the more interesting. Going sometimes on pebbly,
at others on sandy ground, after five mUes we reached the shal
low valley Ilaghlaghen, running from east to west, and hand
somely overgrown with bushes ; and after another stretch of
about the same length, we entered the range of mountains, con
sisting of remarkably cragged and scarred rocks, with many
narrow defiles. Altogether it presented a very curious spec
tacle. When the rocks assumed a smoother appearance, we suddenly
descended into a deep ravine, which at the first glance appeared
to be of a volcanic nature, but, on closer inspection, all the black

186 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
rocks composing these dismal-looking cliffs proved to consist
of sandstone blackened by the influence of the atmosphere:
farther on it was disposed in regular strata very much hke
slate. The western and highest part of the range seems to
consist of clay-slate. The valley changed its character in some
degree after its junction with a side valley called Tiperkum,
which bears distinct marks of great floods occasionaUy descend
ing along its channel from the mountains. Here we collected
some fire-wood, as we were told that farther on we should find
none, and then entered a defile or glen with an ascent of about
a hundred feet above the bottom of the valley. Beyond this
the scene grew more open, and irregular plains, interrupted by
steep buttresses, succeeded each other.
At half past four o'clock in the afternoon we had gradually
begun to change our direction from N.W. by W. to S. The
valley was bordered by a deep chasm and craggy mountain to
the right, and a range of grotesque promontories toward the left,
the slope of which was broken into a variety of terraces, with
several cones rising from them. At length, turning round the
edge of the mountain range, we entered the broad valley of
Tanesof, having before us the isolated and casteUated crest of
Mount Fdinen, or Kasr Jenun, and on our left the long range
of the Akakus, beautifully illuminated by the setting sun, and
forming a sort of relief in various colors, the highest precipitous
crest, with its castles and towers, being white, while the lower
slope, which was more gradual and rugged, disclosed regular
strata of red marl. Toward the west, the vaUey, about five
miles broad, was bordered by sand-hills, whence the sand was
carried by the wind over its whole surface. We ourselves en
camped at length on sandy soil without the least herbage, while
at the distance of about two miles a strip of green was seen run
ning along the valley.
Starting at an early hour the next day, we kept along the
broad barren valley straight for the Enchanted Castle, which
the fanciful reports of our companions had invested with great
interest. Notwithstanding, or perhaps in consequence of, the
warnings of the Tawarek not to risk our lives in so irreligious

MOUNT I'DINEN.

187

and perilous an undertaking as a visit to this dwelling of the
demons, I made up my mind to visit it, convinced as I was that
it was an ancient place of worship, and that it might probably
contain some curious sculptures or inscriptions. Just at noon

188

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

the naked bottom of the valley began to be covered with a lit
tle herbage, when, after another mUe, beyond a depression in the
ground which had evidently at one time formed a considerable
water-pond, talha-trees and ethel-bushes broke the monotony of
the landscape, while between the sand-hills on our right a broad
strip of green was seen coming from the westernmost corner of
the I'dinen. Keeping stiU on for about five miles, we encamp
ed in the midst of a shallow concavity of circular shape, sur
rounded by herbage, and near a large mound crowned by an
ethel-tree. At some distance S.E. we had the weU Tahala, the
water of which proved very good.
As it was too late to visit the I'dinen to-day, I sat down in
the shade of a fine talha and made the preceding sketch of it.
In the evening we received a visit from two men belonging
to a caravan laden with merchandise of Ghadamsiyin (people of
Ghadames), which was said to have come, by the direct road
through the wadi, in thirty days from Tripoli.
Monday, July 15th. This was a dies ater for me. Overweg
and I had determined to start early in the morning for the re
markable mountain ; but we had not been able to obtain from
the Tawarek a guide to conduct us from thence to the next well,
whither the caravan was to proceed by the direct road. Hatita
and Utaeti having again resisted aU our solicitations for a guide,
I at length, determined as I was to visit the mountain at any
cost, started off in the confidence of being able to make out the
well in the direction indicated to me. By iU luck, our provis
ion of zummita (a cool and refreshing paste on which we were
accustomed to breakfast) was exhausted the day before, so that
I was obliged to take with me dry biscuit and dates, the worst
possible food in the desert when water is scarce.
But as yet I needed no stimulus, and vigorously pushed my
way through the sand-hills, which afforded no very pleasant
passage. I then entered a wide, bare, desolate-looking plain, cfv-
ered with black pebbles, from which arose a few black mounds.
Here I crossed the beginning of a fiumara richly overgrown
with herbage, which wound along through the sand-hills toward
the large vaUey-plain. It was the abode of a beautiful pair of

THE TRAVELER'S MISHAP. 189
maraiya {Antelope Soemmeringii), which, probably anxious for
their young ones, did not make off when roused by my approach,
but stopped at a short distance, gazing at me and wagging their
tails. Pursuing my way over the pebbly ground, which grad
ually rose tiU it was broken up by a considerable ravine de
scending from the western part of the mount, I disturbed anoth
er party of three antelopes, which were quietly lying down un
der the cover of some large blocks. At last I began to feel fa
tigued from walking over the sharp-pointed pebbles, as the dis
tance proved to be greater than I had originally imagined, and
I did not seem to have got much nearer to the foot of the En
chanted Mountain. In fact, it proved that the crest of the mount
formed a sort of horse-shoe, so that its middle part, for which I
had been steering all the time, in order to gain a depression
which seemed to afford an easy ascent, was by far the remotest.
I therefore changed my course and turned more eastward, but
only met with more annoyance ; for, ascending the slope which
I hoped would soon convey me to the summit, I suddenly came
to the steep precipice of a deep ravine, which separated me from
the crest.
Being abeady fatigued, the disappointment, of course, de
pressed my spirits, and I had to summon all my resolution and
energy in order to descend into the ravine and climb the other
side. It was now past ten o'clock ; the sun began to put forth
its fuU power, and there was not the slighest shade around me.
In a state of the utmost exhaustion I at length reached the nar
row pinnacled crest, which was only a few feet broad, and exhib
ited neither inscriptions nor sculptures. I had a fine prospect
toward the S.W. and N.E.; but I looked around in vain for any
traces of our caravan. Though exposed to the full rays of the
sun, I lay down on my high barbacan to seek repose ; but my
dry biscuit or a date was quite unpalatable, and being anxious
ab'ut my little provision of water, I could only sip an insuf
ficient draught from my small water-skin.
As the day advanced I got anxious lest our little band, think
ing that I was already in advance, might continue their rriarch
ia the afternoon, and, in spite of my weakness, determined to try

19q TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
to reach the encampment. I therefore descended the ravine in
order to follow its course, which, according to Hatita's indica
tions, would lead me in the direction of the well. It was very
hot ; and being thirsty, I swallowed at once the little water that
remained. This was about noon ; and I soon found that the
draught of mere water, taken upon an empty stomach, had not
at all restored my strength.
At length I reached the bottom of the valley. Hatita had.
always talked as if they were to encamp at no great distance
from the mountain ; yet, as far as I could strain, my view, no
living being was to be seen. At length I became puzzled as to
my direction, and, hurrying on as fast as my failing strength
would aUow, I ascended a mound crowned with an ethel-bush,
and fired my pistols ; but I waited in vain for an answer ; a
strong east wind was blowing dead against me. Reflecting a
moment on my situation, I then crossed the small sand-hills,
and, ascending another mound, fired again. Convinced that
there could be nobody in this direction, at least at a moderate
distance, I bethought myself that our party might be still be
hind, and, very unluckily, I kept more directly eastward.
The valley was here very richly overgrown with sebot ; and,
to my great delight, I saw at a distance some small huts attach
ed to branches of the ethel-tree, covered on the top with seb6t,
and open in front. With joy in my heart I hastened on toward
them, but found them empty; and not a living being was to be,
seen, nor was there a drop of water to be got.
My strength being now exhausted, I sat down on the naked
plain, with a full view before me of the whole breadth of the
wadi, and with some confidence expected the caravan. I even
thought, for a moment, that I beheld a string of camels passing
in the distance. But it was an illusion ; and when the sun was
about to set, not being able to muster strength enough to walk a'>
few paces without sitting down, I had only to choose for my
night's quarters between the deserted huts and an ethel-tree
which I saw at a little distance. I chose the latter, as being on
a more elevated spot, and therefore scrambled to the tree, which:
was of a respectable old age, with thick, tall branches, but al-

ASTRAY IN THE DESERT. 191
most leafless. It was my intention to light a fire, which prom
ised almost certain deliverance ; but I could not muster suf
ficient strength to gather a little wood. I was broken down
and in a feverish state.
Having lain down for an hour or two, after it became quite
dark I arose from the ground, and, looking around me, descried
to my great joy a large fire S.W. down the valley, and, hoping
that it might be that of my companions, I fired a pistol, as the
only means of communicating with them, and listened as the
sound rolled along, feeling sure that it would reach their ears ;
but no answer was returned. AU remained silent. Still I saw
the flame rising toward the sky, and telling where deliverance
was to be found, without being able to avail myself of the sig
nal. Having waited long in vain, I fired a second time — yet
no answer. I lay down in resignation, committing my life to
the care of the Merciful One ; but it was in vain that I tried to
sleep, and, restless and in a high fever, I tossed about on the
ground, looking with anxiety and fear for the dawn of the next
day. At'length the long night wore away, and dawn was drawing
nigh. All was repose and silence ; and I was sure I could not
choose a better time for trying to inform my friends, by signal,
of my whereabouts. I therefore coUected all my strength, load
ed my pistol with a heavy charge, and fired — once — twice. I
thought the sound ought to awaken the dead from their tombs,
so powerfully did it reverberate from the opposite range and roll
along the wadi ; yet no answer. I was at a loss to account for
the great distance apparently separating me from my compan
ions, who seemed not to have heard my firing.
The sun that I had half longed for, half looked forward to
with terror, at last rose. My condition, as the heat went on
increasing, became more dreadful, and I crawled around, chang-
ing'every moment my position, in order to enjoy the little shade
afforded by the leafless branches of the tree. About noon there
was, of course, scarcely a spot of shade left — only enough for my
head — and I suffered greatly from the pangs of thirst, although
I sucked a little of my blood till I became senseless, and fell into

192 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
a sort of delirium, from which I only recovered when the sun
went down behind the mountains. I then regained some con
sciousness, and crawled out of the shade of the tree, throwing a
melancholy glance over the plain, when suddenly I heard the
cry of a camel. It was the most delightful music I ever heard
in my life ; and, raising myself a little from the ground, I saw
a mounted Tarki passing at some distance from me, and looking
eagerly around. He had found my footsteps in the sandy
ground, and losing them again on the pebbles, was anxiously
seeking traces of the direction I had taken. I opened my parch
ed mouth, and crying, as loud as my faint strength allowed,
" aman, aman" (water, water), I was rejoiced to get for answer
" iwah ! iwah!" and in a few moments he sat at my side, wash
ing and sprinkling my head, while I broke out involuntarily into
an uninterrupted strain of " el hamdu lillahi! el hamdu lillahi!"
Having thus first refreshed me, and then aUowed me a draught
which, however, I was not able to enjoy, my throat being so dry,
and my fever stiU continuing, my deliverer, whose name was
Musa, placed me upon his camel, mounted himself in front, of
me, and brought me to the tents. They were a good way off.
The joy of meeting again, after I had been already despaired of, ;
was great ; and I had to express my sincere thanks to my com
panions, who had given themselves so much trouble to find me.
But I could speak but little at first, and could scarcely eat any
thing for the next three days, after which I graduaUy recovered
my strength. It is, indeed, very remarkable how quickly the
strength of a European is broken in these climes, if for a single
day he be prevented from taking his usual food. Nevertheless,
I was able to proceed the next day (the 17th), when we kept
more toward the slope of the Akakfis, and here passed a broad
lateral valley, rich in herbage, called A'dar-n-jelkum, after which
we descended about a hundred feet from the pebbly ground into
sandy soil forming a sort of valley caUed Ighelfannis, and full
of ethel-trees and sebot. In such a locality we encamped two
hours after noon, near splendid ethel-trees ; but the strong north
easterly wind, enveloping ourselves and baggage in thick clouds
of sand, banished aU enjoyment.

ARRIVAL AT GHA'T. 193
Thursday, July 18th. We continued our march with the sure
expectation of soon reaching Ghat,* the second great station on
our journey. The valley after some time became free from ethel-
Itrees, and opened a view of the little town, situated at the north
western foot of a rocky eminence jutting out into the valley, and
girt by sand-hills on the west. Its plantation extends in a
long strip toward S.S.W., while another group, formed by the
plantation and by the noble-looking mansion of Haj Ahmed, ap
pears toward the west. Here we were joined by Mohammed
Sherif, a nephew of Haj Ahmed, in a showy dress, and well
mounted on a horse ; and we separated from Hatita in order to
take our way round the north side of the hill, so as to avoid ex
citing the curiosity and importunity of the townspeople. But a
good many boys came out of the town, and exhibited quite an
interesting scene as they recognized Yakub (Mr. Richardson),
who had visited this place on his former journey. Many people
came out to see us, some offering us their welcome, others re
maining indifferent spectators.
Thus we reached the new plantation of Haj Ahmed, the gov
ernor, as he is caUed, of Ghat, and found, at the entrance of the
out-building which had been destined for our use, the principal
men of the town, who received us with great kindness and po
liteness. The most interesting among them was Haj Ahmed
himself, a man of grave and dignified manners, who, although a
stranger to the place and a native of Tawat, has succeeded,
through his address and his mercantile prosperity, in obtaining
for himself here an almost princely position, and has founded in
reality a new town, with large and splendid improvements, by
the side of the old city. His situation as governor of Ghat, in
reference, and in some degree in opposition to the Tawarek
chiefs, is a very peculiar one, and. requires, on his part, a good
deal of address, patience, and forbearance. I am convinced that
* If I were to give the real native sound, I should write Rhat rather than
Ghat; and it is only from fear lest I might offend the ear of the English reader
that I abstain from following this principle. The ghain of the Arabs has a double
sound, sometimes as gh, at others as rh, and the latter prevails entirely in this
part of Africa ; and I do not see why we should not express this difference. For
the same reason, I should prefer writing Sonrhay, and not Songhay or Sunghay.
Vol. I— N

194 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
when we first arrived he did not view us with displeasure, but,
on the contrary, was greatly pleased to receive under his roof a
mission of her Britannic majesty's government, with whose im
mense influence and power, and the noble purpose of whose pol
icy he was not entirely unacquainted ; but his extraordinary
and precarious situation did not allow him to act freely, and, be
sides, I can not say that he received from us so warm an ac
knowledgment as his conduct in the first instance seemed to
deserve. Besides him, the chief parties in our first conversation were
his nephew, Ahmed Mohammed Sherif (the man who came to
meet us), a clever but forward lad, of pleasant manners — whom,
in the course of my travels, I met several
times in Sudan — and Mohammed Kafa, a
cheerful, good-humored man.
Our quarters, of which the accompanying
woodcut gives the ground-plan, were certainly
neither airy nor agreeable ; but the hot sand-
wind which blew without made them appear
to us quite tolerable.

CHAPTER X.
THE INDIGENOUS BERBER POPULATION.
There can be no doubt that even Fezzan, in ancient times,
had a population entirely different from that dwelling near the
coast ; but the original black inhabitants of that country have
been swept away, or mixed up entirely with the Arabs, who
seem to have invaded this country not earlier than the 15th
century of our era, for in Makrizi's time Fezzan was still a Ber
ber country.* But few names now remain which evidently he-
* Makrizi, Hamaker Specim. Categ., p. 206. (j]/-J <& j^j-j IfWj'
El Bekri, p. 455, already mentions Benu-Khaldin, besides the Fezzanah, as in-
habitants of some places. On the same page this diligent author says expressly
that the town of Zawila was on the border of Negroland. We shall see, in the

THE BERBERS. 195
speak a Central African origin, such as those terminating in
awa, as Tasawa or Tessawa (a town already mentioned by
Edrisi*), Portukawa, and others.
But in the country of Ghat, which we have now entered, the
case is very different ; for here the former state of things has
not been so entirely altered as not to leave some unmistakable
testimonies behind it.
AU the original population of North Africa appear to have
been a race of the Semitic stock, but who, by intermarriage with
tribes which came from Egypt, or by way of it, had received a
certain admixture. The consequence was, that several distinct
tribes were produced, designated by the ancients as Libyans,
Moors, Numidians, Libyphcenicians, Getulians, and others, and
traced by the native historians to two different families, the Be-
ranes and the Abtar, who, however, diverge from one common
source, Mazigh or Madaghs. This native widespread African
race, either from the name of their supposed ancestor, Ber, which
we recognize in the name Afer, or in consequence of the Roman
term barbari, has been generally called Berber, and in some re
gions Shawi and Shelluh. The general character and language
of these people seem to have been the same, while the complex
ion alone was the distinguishing point of difference.
How far southward the settlements of this North African race
originally extended, it is difficult to say ; but it may be gather
ed, even from ancient writers, that they did not extend to the
very border of the naked desert, and that they were bounded on
the south by a region occupied by .^Ethiopian races — an obser
vation which is confirmed by the present state of things. War-
gela evidently belonged originally to the dominion of the Blacks,
as well as Tawat. The Berbers seem in general to have kept
second volume, that all this country constituted part of the Empire of Kanem ;
indeed, from what El Bekri says, p. 457, it appears that even within twenty years
after the great and unfortunate immigration of the Arab tribes into Barbary, two
tribes, the Hadramis and the Sehamis, had taken possession of Wadan. But we
shall see that the Negroes regained this place at a later period.
* Edrisi, ed. Jaubert, vol. i., p. 113. Edrisi deserves attention when he says
that the Negroes called Tessawa " Little Jerma ;" that is to say, they attached
to it a celebrated name, as if it were another capital of the country.

196 TRAVELS IN AFRICA'.
within their borders till driven from their native seats by the
Arabs; for they had been mildly treated by the former con
querors of the country (the Phoenicians, the Romans, Vandals,
and Byzantines), and they appear even to have partly embraced
Christianity ;* but this, of course, was just another principle
of opposition between them and their Mohammedan conquerors,
and a great proportion of them were evidently obliged to retire
into the more desolate regions in their rear. The exact time
when this happened we are not able to determine.
In the western part of the desert this transmigration com
menced before the time of Islam ; but in the central part of Bar
bary the flight of the Berbers seems to have been connected
with fhat numerous immigration of Arab families into North
Africa, which took place in the first half of the 11th century,
in the time and at the instigation of Ahmed ben 'Ali el Jer-
jerani, who died in A.H. 436, or 1044-5 of our era.f The fu
gitives pushed forward in several great divisions, which it is not
essential here to enumerate, as, with a few exceptions, they have
become extinct. It seems only necessary to advert here to the
fact, that of all the reports handed down to us by the ancient
Arab historians and geographers respecting the different Berber
nations existing in the desert, the name of Tarki, or Tawarek,
by which they are at present generally designated, occurs only
in Ebn Khaldun,J under the form Tarka, or Tarika; and after
* Procop. de JEdificiis, vi., 4 ; Joann. Abb. Chronic, p. 13 (respecting the
Mauri pacati, but especially the important tribe of the Lewatah) ; Abu '1 Hassan,
Annales Regg. Maur., ed. Tornberg, p. 7, 15, 83 (respecting the Western Ber
bers) ; El Bekri, Notices et Extraits, &c, vol. xii., p. 484 ; Ebn Khaldiin, torn.
i., p. 209, le Baron de Slane, and passim.
t A few authors make this momentous event, which plunged North Africa into
a series of misfortunes, happen a few years later, under El Yezuri. Leo Afri-
canus, ed. Venezia, 1837, 1. i., c. 21 : " Ma quando la loro (degli Arabi) genera-
zione entro nell' Africa, allora con guerra scaecio di la i Numidi; e ella sirimase
ad abitar ne' diserti vicini ai paesi de' datteri, e i Numidi andarono a far le loro
abitazioni ne' diserti che sono propinqui alia Terranegra."
t Ebn Khaldiin, vol. i., p. 235, Arab, text, vol. ii., p. 64, transl. De Slane:
vol. i., p. 260, Arab, text, vol. ii., p. 105, transl. In both passages the name is
written LO; ; and it is to be noted that this name was borne by a clan which
dwelt nearest to the Arab tribe of the Beni Solaim. The great General Tarel

THE BERBERS. 197
him Leo Africanus is the first who, in mentioning the five great
tribes, names one of them Terga.* This name, which has been
given to the Berber inhabitants of the desert, and which Hodg-
sonf erroneously supposed to mean "tribe," is quite foreign to
them. The truly indigenous name by which these people call
themselves is the same by which they were already known to
the Greeks and Romans, and which was given to their ancestors
by Ebn Khaldun and other Arabic writers, viz., Amazigh, Ma
zigh, Mazix, Masix, Mazys, Mazax, and even Maxitanus in the
singular form. The general form now used in these regions is
AmoshaghJ in the singular, Imoshagh in the plural, and Te-
mashight in the neutral form. This is the native name by
which the so-called Tawarek§ designate their whole nation, which
is divided into several great famines. And if the reader inquires
who gave them the other name, I answer, with full confidence,
the Arabs ; and the reason why they called therii so was prob
ably from their having left or abandoned their religion, from the
verb ^/a-, " tereku dinihum ;" for, from evidence which I have
collected elsewhere, it seems clear that a great part of the Ber
bers of the desert were once Christians (they are still called by
Ebn Ziyad, who was a Berber from the tribe of the Ulhassa, seems to have re
ceived his name Tarek from the same source as the Berber clan Tarika received
theirs. * El Bekri certainly mentions (Notices et Extraits, v. xii., p. 623) \_jj T £) ¦
but this has nothing to do with the tribe.
t Hodgson, Notes on Northern Africa, p. 23. The word which means tribe is
written £ yiU,; and this is an Arabic, and not a Berber word.
t The : and * (sh) in Berber names are often confounded. Thus they say
Ikazkezan, Ikashkeshan ; A'gadez, E'gedesh.
§ The name is written by the Arabs promiscuously with the L * ( and with the
j;, but oftener with the t * {" '; and the name is so pointedly Arabic that besides
the plural form C<Xj* another form is used, jn .: ^J^" ^1' Sultan Bello
*ys properly, jjjfc J^ *-3^\ fbj \jjLsl) tSol1>j-Jl LLiij ^

198 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
some Arabs "the Christians of the desert"), and that they aft
erward changed their religion and adopted Islam ; notwithstand
ing which they still caU God " Mesi," and an angel " anyelus,"
and have preserved many curious customs which bear testimony
to their ancient creed.
I said that the regions into which the Berbers had thus been
obliged to withdraw had been formerly occupied by Ethiopian,
or, as we may rather caU them, sub-Libyan tribes. But who
were these tribes ? We have here to do only with the region
about Ghat, reserving the other districts of the desert for future
discussion as we advance in our journey. This region, as well
as the whole country southward, including Air, or rather As
ben, was anciently inhabited, I think, by the Gober race. But
the Hogar, or Azkar, who now occupy this country, do not seem
to have been its first conquerors, but to have found another race,
nearly related to themselves, in possession of it.
The tribe which now possesses the country, the Imoshagh or
Tawarek of Ghat, are generally called Azkar or Azgar; but
they are named also Hogar or Hagara, though the latter name
is very often employed to denote another tribe. Upon this
point, also, we have received full and credible information from
Ebn Khaldiin, who teUs us* that the name Hogar was formed
from that of Hauwara, and served to designate that section of
the great Berber tribe which had retired into the desert about
Gogo ; and it is very remarkable that the Hogar were described
just about the same time, in those same regions, by the travel
er Ebn Batuta.t; Hogar therefore seems to be the more general
name, while Azkar serves to designate a section of this tribe.
However, this name also appears to be an ancient one, being
mentioned already by Edrisi (A.H. 453)1 as the name of a tribe
* Ebn Khaldiin, vol. i., p. 275, transl. De Slane.
t Journal Asiatique, serie iv., torn, i., 1843, p. 238. jl£=iJ&. This is the
usual form, Hogar, although Hagara, with the second vowel short, seems to have
no less pretension to correctness.
t Edrisi, trad. Jaubert, i., p. 113, 116. It is very probable, indeed, that this
tribe is already mentioned as early as the fourth century, under the form of
'Avfaptavoi, and in connection with the Ma?</cec, which is nothing else but the
general name of the whole tribe, Imoshagh, by Philostorgius (Hist. Eccles., »•,

THE AZKAR. 199
evidently identical with that of which we are speaking, the set
tlements of which he indicates as being distant twelve days'
journey from Tasawa, and eighteen from Ghadames. It is
mentioned about a century later by Ebn S'aid* as dwelling in
the same place. The Tinylkum Ibrahim was of opinion that
Azkar means that section of the Hogar who had remained (at
some period unknown to us) " faithful to the established author
ity." But this interpretation of the name, if we consider the
early period at which it occurs, does not seem quite probable ;
and I suspect that those may be right who give to the name a
more general meaning.
At present the Azkar form but a small part of the population
of the country which they rule, namely, the region inclosed be
tween the desert bordered by Wadi Taliya in the east, the val
leys Zerzuwa and A'fara in the west, the weU of Asiu toward
the south, and Nijbertin toward the north, and are not able to
furnish more than about five hundred armed men. In fact, they
form a warlike aristocracy of five families, divided into thirty
divisions or fayas, each of which has an independent chief. The
names of the five families are Uraghen, Pmanang, Pfogas, Ha-
danarang, and Manghassatang. The Uraghen or Auraghen,
meaning the "Yellows," or "golden" (in color), who seem to
have once formed a very powerful faimly,f and have given their
name to one of the principal dialects of the Tarkiye or Tema-
shight, are at present much dispersed, many of them Hying
among the Awelimmiden on the northern shore of the Isa or
Niger, where I shall have more to say about them. Even
among the Azkar they still form the most important division,
and count at least a hundred and fifty full-grown men. A large
viii.), who represents them as making incursions into Egypt. Under the form
Ausuriani ('Avaovpiavot), the same tribe is several times mentioned by Synesius,
the Bishop of Cyrene, who expressly represents them as mounted upon camels.
Whether they are identical with the Austoriani of Ammianus Marcellinus is less
certain. For this hint I am indebted to Mr. Cooley.
* Ebn S'aid, mentioned by Abu '1 Fe"da, ed. Reinaud, torn. i. (texte Arabe),
p. 125, in the corrupted reading .jl^s^ ; trad., vol. ii., p. 177.
t The Auraghen are evidently identical with the Aurfgha, one of the seven
principal clans of the Beranes.

200 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
body of them is settled in and about the valley of Arikim, on
the direct road from Murzuk to Sudan, and about fifty miles to
the south of Ghat. Their original abode is said to have been
at a place caUed Asawa, to the south of Iralghawen. But the
tribe that formerly possessed the greatest authority, and which,
on this account, is still called Amanokalen, or the sultan tribe,
is that of the Pmanang, who are at present reduced to extreme
poverty, and to a very small number, said not even to reach
ten families. But they have still a very large number of Im-
ghad under their command. Their women are celebrated for
their beauty. They are most of them settled in the valley of
Dider. The third division of the Azkar, to which Hatita, the
friend of the English, belongs, are the Manghassatang, or Ima-
ghassaten, whose leather tents are generaUy pitched in the val
ley of Zerzuwa, on the road from Ghat to Tawat, about six
day's' journey from the former.*
The three clans, or " tiyusi," which I have mentioned, con
stitute, strictly speaking, the family of the Azkar ; the other
two divisions, viz., the Pfogas and the Hadanarang, having sep
arated from the rest, and broken in some way the national bond
which formerly united them with the others. One of them, the
Pfogas, are scattered over the whole desert, some having settled
among the Kel-owi, at a place called Torit, on the road to Da
merghii ; another section dwells in the more favored valleys to
the east of Mabruk ; while a small portion of this tribe remains
in the territory of the Azkar, where they have their abode in the
vaUey of A'fara, about half way between Ghat and Tawit.
The second of these tribes, viz., the Hadanarang, is settled in a
* In order to point out clearly the situation of these valleys, I here subjoin a
short itinerary of the road from Ghat to Zerzuwa, and thence to E'geri.
In going from Ghat westward to Tawat, you reach, after four or five hours, the
place Fiyiit ; on the second day you sleep in Idu ; on the third, in A'tser-n-ta-
shelt; on the fourth, in Azakkan temanokalt (" the royal plain") ; on the fifth,
in Ihor-hayen ; after which, on the sixth day, you arrive in Zerzuwa. (This
part of the itinerary varies a little from tjje itinerary from Ghat to Tawat, given
by Mr. Richardson in his first journey.) Going thence to E'geri, in a direction
east from south, you encamp on the first night in Teni , on the second, in Tin-
ttizist ; on the third, in Adomar ; on the fourth, in Aderar ; on the fifth, in Di
der ; and on the sixth arrive in E'geri.

THE HADANARANG. 201
place caUed A'demar, not far from the southern frontier of the
territory of the Azkar, in the midst of the Imghad. They are,
to some extent, at least, migratory freebooters ; and to them be
longed those robbers who, soon after we had fortunately got out
of their clutches, murdered two Tebu merchants on the road
from Air to Ghat, carrying away their whole caravan, with no
less than thirty-three slaves.
I was assured by Hatita that there were not less than thirty
subdivisions of the larger clans, called " faya," in Temashight,
but I could only ascertain the names of four of them, viz. , the Izo-
ban and the Okeren, Hving in the Wadi Iraiaren, and probably be
longing to one and the same family (I believe the Pmanang) ; the
Degarrab, probably a section of the Hadanarang, living in a place
called Tarat, together with some Imghad ; and, finally, the Ihi-
yawen or Ihewan, a portion of whom dwell in Titarsen, while
another section has settled near Tasawa in Fezzan, forming the
last link of the chain which connects the Imghad and the Az
kar. Another link is formed by the Makeresang, who, like the
former, submit to the authority of the chief Nakhmikhen ; then
follow the Ifelelen, who are settled in Tasil with the Imghad.
The least degenerate of these half-caste tribes, who hold a mid
dle place between the Imoshagh and the Imghad, or between
the free and the servile, is said to be the section of the Mate-
ghilelen, now settled in the Wadi el Gharbi, in Fezzan, while
their kindred certainly belong to the Imghad. This is the
best proof that the name A'mghi does not express national de
scent, but social condition. Another section or tribe loosely
connected with the Azkar, but not regarded as noble, although
as strict ascetics they are much respected, and are enabled to
to carry on almost undisturbed the commerce between Fezzan
and Negroland, are the Tinylkum, of whom I have already had
occasion to speak repeatedly. At present they are settled part
ly in the vaUey Tigger-ode, where their chief, the Haj 'Ali, re
sides, partly in Wadi el Gharbi and around Tasawa ; but their
ancient seats were to the south of Ghat, and even in the town
of Ghat itself, they having been called in to decide the quarrel
between the former inhabitants of that place, the Kel-teUek and
the Makamurnmasen.

202

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

As I said above, the ruling class of the Azkar constitutes by
far the smaller part of the population of the country, while
the great mass of the population of these regions consists of
a subject or degraded tribe called Imghad, or, in the Arabic
form, Meratha, or even Metathra. This I formerly considered
to be a gentile name, but I found afterward that it is a general
epithet used by all the different tribes of the Imoshagh to de
note degraded tribes. The singular form of the name is A'm
ghi,* which is the counterpart of Amoshagh, as it means " serv
ile," while the latter means " free." The Imghad of the Azkar
differ a great deal from the ruling tribe, particularly the women ;
for while the Imoshagh are tolerably fair, a great many of the
former are almost black, but nevertheless well made, and not
only without negro features, but generally with a very regular
physiognomy, while the women, at least in their forms, approach
more to the type of the negro races. But as for their language,
I must confess that I am not able to decide with confidence
whether it sprang originally from a Berber dialect or the Hausa
language :f many of the people, indeed, seem to be bilingual,
but by far the greater part of the men do not even understand
the Hausa language. I am persuaded that they were originally
Berbers who have become degraded by intermixture with the
black natives.
The Imghad of the Azkar, who altogether form a numerous
body, being able to furnish about 5000 armed men, are divided
into four sections— the Batanatang or Ibetnaten, the Farkana
or Aferkenen, Segigatang, and Warwaren, which latter name, I
think, very naturally calls to mind the Latin " Barbari," a name
which, according to some ancient authors, belonged to certain
tribes of Northern Africa,! an(l may fairly explain the origin of
* 1_5*"°l ph OuLcl. The change of the c into the , in the Arabic form of
the name shows to what extent the sound of the r prevails in the African pro
nunciation of this letter. The final d has replaced n.
f Hatita told us expressly that, if any of the Imghad should trouble us, we
should say "babo." Now "babo" is neither Arabic nor Temashight, but the
Hausa word for " there is none."
% Hippolytus, Lib. Generat. (p. 101, in the second volume of the Chronicon
Paschale, ed. Bonn), enumerates among the African tribes " Afri qui et Bar-

DEGRADED TRIBES. 203
the name Berber, though it is to be remarked that " war," a
syllable with which a great number of Berber names begin,
seems to signify " man." Of these four divisions, the last three
seem to live principally in and around the small town of Bara
kat, a few mUes south of Ghat, and in and around Janet or
Yanet, about thirty mUes S.S.W. from E'geri. Neither the
population of the town of Ghat nor that of the town of Barakat
is at present formed by these Imghad ; but I should suppose
that in former times they were also the privileged inhabitants
of Ghat itself, which at present is occupied by a very mixed
race, so weU described by the late Mr. Richardson. These two
favored spots of the desert seem to be left entirely to these peo
ple as tenants, on condition that they take care of the planta
tions and of the gardens, and gather the fruit, of which they are
bound to give a portion to their masters. Some of the noble
Imoshagh, indeed, seem to have a great many of these people at
their disposal. The Batanatang or Ibetnaten reside principally
in a valley caUed Tesili, while another section of them have
their abode among the Hogar, in a district caUed Tehellahohet,
on the road from Asiu to Tawat. A portion of the last tribe
(viz., the Farkana or Aferkenen) dwell in a valley called Tarat,
about a day's journey northwest from Nghakeli.
Besides these four great divisions, there are many other sec
tions of the Imghad. The names of these, as far as they be
came known to me, are as follows : the Dik-Surki, settled in the
territory of the Azkar, in a place called E'dehi ; the Kel-n-tunin,
living in Aderar ; the Amatghilelen,* who have their abode in
the same spot ; the Kel-ahenet, living in Hagara ; the Akeshe-
maden, in the vaUey caUed Atul ; the Pkelan, who have their
dwelling-places in Zerzer ; the Kelghafsa, in Pfak ; the Kel-ifis,
in Temaghaset ; and finally the Ijran.
The ruling race of the Imoshagh subsists entirely on the la
bor of this depressed class, as the old Spartans did upon that
bares;" and in Itinerar. Antonini, p. 2, the Macenites Barbari are mentioned.
Varvar is a Sanscrit word of very general meaning.
* This clan is evidently related to the Mateghilelen mentioned above, p. 201,
as settled at present in the Wadi el Gharbi.

204 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of the Lacedaemonians, but stiU more upon the tribute or ghe-
rama which, as I mentioned above, they raise from the caravans
— a custom already mentioned by Leo Africanus.* Without
some such revenue they could not trick themselves out so well
as they do, though when at home in their " tekabber," they live
at very little expense, particularly as they are not polygamists.
The Imghad are not allowed to carry an iron spear nor to wear
a sword, which is the distinction of the free man, nor any very
showy dress. Most of them may be regarded as settled, or as
" Kel," that is to say, as the constant, or, at least, as the ordi
nary inhabitants of a given place ; and this, indeed, it seems, is
even to be said of a great many of the Azkar themselves, ;who
seem to hold a middle place between the nomadic and the set
tled tribes. The consequence is, that many of them do not live
in leather tents, or " ehe," but in round conical huts called te
kabber, made of bushes and dry grass.
The town of Ghat (the favored locality of which might be
presumed to have attracted a settlement at a very early age) is
not mentioned by any Arabic author except the traveler Ebn
Battita in the 14th century, and seems never to have been a
large place. Even now it is a small town of about 250 houses,
but nevertheless of considerable commercial importance, which
would become infinitely greater if the jealousy of the Tawati
would allow the opening of the direct road from Timbuktu,
which seems to be under the special protection of the powerful
chief Gemama.
The view from the rocky hill, which reaches its greatest ele
vation just over the town, and, together with a cistern, offers a
few Berber and Arabic inscriptions to the curious traveler, proved
far less extensive and picturesque than that from a sand-hill a
little distance westward from the house of Haj Ahmed. I as
cended this little hill in the afternoon of the 22d, and, screened
by an ethel-bush, made the accompanying sketch of the whole
oasis, which I hope will give a tolerably good idea of this inter
esting locality — the separate strips of palm-trees, the wide, des-
* L. i., c. 20 : " Ma le carovane che passano per li diserti loro, sono tenute di
pagare ai lor principi certa gabella."

VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF GHA'T. 207
olate vaUey, bordered by the steep slope of the Akakiis range,
with its regular strata of marly slate and its pinnacled crest of
sandstone ; the little town on the left, at the foot of the rocky
hiU, contrasting with the few and fraU huts of palm branches
scattered about here and there ; the noble and ispacious mansion
of the industrious Haj Ahmed in the foreground, on the north
ern side of which lies the flat dwelling assigned to us. When
descending from this hill toward the south, I was greatly pleased
with the new improvements added by Haj Ahmed to his plan
tation. The example of this man shows how much may be
achieved by a little industry in these favored spots, where cul
tivation might be infinitely increased. In the southernmost
and most recent part of the plantation, a large basin, about 100
ft. long and 60 ft. broad, had been formed, receiving a full sup
ply of water from the northern side of the sand-hills, and irri
gating kitchen-gardens of considerable extent. Thus the wealthy
governor makes some advance every year, but, unfortunately, he
seems not to find many imitators.
Our negotiation with the Tawarek chiefs might have been
conducted with more success if a letter written by her majesty's
government to the chief Jabur had not been produced at the
very moment when aU the chiefs present were ready to sub
scribe the treaty. But their attention was entirely distracted
from the object in view. This letter made direct mention of the
abolition of the slave-trade ; hence it became a very difficult
and delicate matter, especially as Mr. Richardson's supplies of
merchandise and presents at that moment were entirely in the
hands of the merchant Haj Ibrahim, who, even if liberal enough
to abstain from intrigue against admitting the competition of
English merchants, would be sure to do aU in his power to pre
vent the abolition of the slave-trade.
It is a serious undertaking to enter into direct negotiation
with these Tawarek chiefs, the absolute masters of several of
the most important routes to Central Africa.* It required great
skill, entire confidence, and no inconsiderable amount of means,
* Jackson was the first who pointed out the importance of entering into direct
negotiation with the Tawarek.

208 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of which we were extremely deficient. To this vexation let
there be added the petulant and indiscreet behavior of our serv
ants, who were exasperated by the sufferings of the Rhamadan
during the hottest season of the year, and were too well aware
of the insufficiency of our means to carry out the objects of our
mission, and the reader will easily understand that we were
extremely glad when, after repeated delays, we were at length
able to leave this place in the pursuance of our journey.

CHAPTER XI.
CROSSING A LARGE MOUNTAIN EIDGE, AND ENTERING ON THE
OPEN, GRAVELLY DESERT.
On the morning of the 26th of July I once more found my
self on the back of my camel, and from my elevated seat threw
a last glance over the pleasant picture of the oasis of Ghat.
There is an advanced spur of the plantation about two miles
south from the town, called Timeggawe, with a few scattered
cottages at its southern end. Having left this behind us, we
came to the considerable plantation of Pberke, separated into
two groups, one on the west and the other on the east side, and
kept along the border of the western group, which forms dense
clusters, while that to the east is rather thin and loosely scat
tered. The town of Barakat, lying at the foot of a sandy emi
nence stretching north and south, became now and then visible on
our right, glittering through the thinner parts of the plantation.
Being prepared for a good day's march, as not only the Tin
ylkum were reported to have left Arikim several days ago, but
as even the little caravan of Kel-owi, with whom we had made
arrangements for protection and company on the road, was a
considerable way in advance, we were greatly astonished when
ordered to encamp near the scattered palm-trees at the extreme
eastern end of the plantation. Utaeti, who had accompanied
us all the way from Ghat on foot, chose the camping-ground.

BATtAKAT. 209
Mr. Richardson, who had been behind, was not less astonished
when he found us encamped at so early an hour. But our
camels, which seemed to have been worked during our stay at
Ghat, instead of being allowed to recover their strength by rest
and pasture, were in great want of some good feeding, and there
was much aghtil {Hedysarum Alhajji) about our encampment.
Toward noon we were visited by several Hogar, or rather Az
kar, who proved a little troublesome, but not so much so as
the townspeople, who caused us a great deal of annoyance
both during the evening and on the following morning, and gave
us some idea of what might await us farther on.
Being annoyed at our delay here, I accompanied two of Mr.
Bichardson's people and the young son of Yusuf Mukni, who
wished to go into the town to buy a fowl. We were followed
by two men from among the townspeople, who wanted to extort
a present from me, and one of whom, by bawling out the char
acteristic phrase of his creed, made me fear lest he might suc
ceed in exciting aU the people against me. The town was dis
tant from our encampment a mile and a quarter, and having
once reached its wall, I determined to enter it. The town, or
agherim, forms a tolerably regular quadrangle, on an open piece
of ground at the eastern foot of the sandy eminence, and is in
closed by a waU (agador), built of clay, about five-and-twenty
feet high, and provided with quadrangular towers. We enter
ed it by the eastern gate, which, being defended by a tower, has
its entrance from the side, and leads first to a small court with
a well, from which another arched passage leads into the streets.
Here several women, of good figure and decently dressed, were
seated tranquilly, as it seemed, enjoying the cool air of the aft
ernoon, for they had no occupation, nor were they seUing any
thing. Although I was dressed in a common blue Sudan shirt,
and tolerably sunburnt, my fairer complexion seemed to alarm
them, and some of them withdrew into the interior of the
houses crying " la ilah." StUl, I was not molested nor insulted
by the people passing by, and I was pleased that several of
them courteously answered my salute. They were apparently
not of pure Berber blood. It appeared that a good many of
Vol. I.— 0

210 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the inhabitants had gone to their date-groves to look after
the harvest, as the fruit was just about to ripen ; hence the
place, though in good repair and very clean, had a rather solita
ry appearance. There is no commerce in this place as in Ghat,
the whole wealth of the inhabitants consisting in their planta
tions. Yet they are said to be better off than the population
of Ghat, who are exposed to great and continual extortions from
the Tawarek on account of their origin, while the people of Ba
rakat enjoy certain privUeges. The houses were all two or
three stories high, and weU built, the clay being nicely polished,
A few palm-trees decorate the interior of the town. It is of
stUl more diminutive size than Ghat, containing about two
hundred houses ; but it is built with great regularity.
Having stuck fast a whUe in a lane which had no thorough
fare, we at length got safely out of the little town of Barakat by
the south gate. It has, I believe, four gates, like Ghat. On
this side of the town, inside of the waUs, stands the mosque, a
building of considerable size for so small a place, neatly white
washed, and provided with a lofty minaret.
Leaving the town, we took a more southern and circuitous
road than that by which we had come, so that I saw a good deal
of the plantation. The soil is for the most part impregnated with
salt, and the weUs have generaUy brackish water. There was
much industry to be seen, and most of the gardens were well
kept ; but the weUs might easily be more numerous, and only
a small quantity of corn is cultivated. The great extent to
which dukhn, or Guinea-corn ("eneli" in Temashight*), or Pen-
nisetum typh&ideum, is cultivated here, as well as near Ghat, in
proportion to wheat or barley, seems to indicate the closer and
more intimate connection of this region with Negroland. Some
culinary vegetables also were cultivated ; and some, but not
many, of the gardens were carefully fenced with the leaves of
the palm-tree. The grove was animated by numbers of wild
pigeons and turtle-doves, bending the branches of the palm-trees
with their wanton play ; and a good many asses were to be seen.
Cattle I did not observe.
* This word "eneli" occurs in the Travels of Ebn Batuta.

A PLEASANT PROSPECT. 211
But far more interesting were the scenes of human life that
met my eyes. Happiness seemed to reign, with every necessary
comfort, in this delightful little grove. .There was a great num
ber of cottages, or tekabber, built of palm-branches and palm-
leaves, most of them of considerable size, and containing several
apartments ; aU of them had flat roofs. They are inhabited by
the Imghad or Meratha. A great many of them seerried at
present to be busy elsewhere ; but these lightly-built straggling
suburbs were full of chUdren, and almost every woman carried
an infant at her back. They were aU black, but well formed,
and infinitely superior to the mixed race of Fezzan. The men
wore in general blue shirts, and a black shawl round the face; the
women were only dressed in the turkedi, or Sudan-cloth, wound
round their body, and leaving the upper part, including the
breast, uncovered. They understood generally nothing but Te-
mashight, and only a few of them spoke the Hausa language.
The men were nearly aU smoking.
Having returned to our tent from this pleasant ramble, I did
not stay long in it, but, stealing off as secretly as possible, I
walked to the eastern side of the vaUey, which is here locked up
by the steep slope of the Akakiis range. The plain on this side,
being much interrupted by hiUs crowned with ethel-trees, does
not afford a distant prospect. In this quarter, too, there are a
few scattered gardens, with melons and vegetables, but no palm-
trees. In the evening we were greatly annoyed by some Imghad ;
and between one of them and our fiery and inconsiderate Tunis
ian shushari a violent dispute arose, which threatened to assume
a very serious character. We were on the watch the whole night.
¦ Friday, July 26th. Having waited a long time for Utaeti, we
at length started without him, passing on our right a beautiful
palm-grove, with as many as ten thousand trees, while our left
was bordered by scattered gardens, where the people were busy
in the cool of the morning irrigating the corn and vegetables,
with the assistance of Sudan oxen. They came out to see us
pass by, but without expressing any feeling, hostile or other
wise. After a mUe and a half the plantation ceased, at the bed

212 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of a torrent which contained a pond of rain-water collected from
the higher rocky ground, which here terminates. Further on we
passed another smaU channel, overgrown with bushes, and re
markable for nothing but its name, which seems1 plainly to indi
cate that this country originaUy belonged to the Gober or Hausa
nation, for it is still called Koramma, a word which in the Hausa
language denotes the bed of a torrent. To this water-course par
ticularly the general designation was most probably assigned,
because in its further progress it widens very considerably, and
in some degree appears as the head of the green bottom of the
vaUey of Ghat.
But a more luxuriant vaUey, from three to four miles broad,
begins further on, rich in herbage, and fuU of ethel-trees, all
crowning the tops of smaU mounds. Here we encamped'near
a pond of dirty rain-water, frequented by great flocks of doves
and water-fowl, and a well called Pzayen, in order to wait for
Utaeti. The well was only about three feet deep, but the water
brackish and disagreeable. Our friend came at length, and it
was then decided to reach the Kel-owi ; we therefore left our
pleasant camping-ground about half past nine in the evening,
favored by splendid moonlight. So interesting was the scene,
that, absorbed in my thoughts, I got considerably in advance
of the caravan, and, not observing 'a smaU path which turned
off on the right, I followed the larger one till I became conscious
of my solitary situation, and, dismounting, lay down in order to
await my companions. Our caravan, however, had taken the
other path, and my fellow-travelers grew rather anxious about
me ; but my camel, which was evidently aware of the caravan
ahead of us, would not give up this direction, which proved to
be the right one, and after I had joined the caravan we were
obliged to return to my former path.
Here we found the smaU Kel-owi caravan encamped in the
midst of a valley well covered with herbage, near the well Ka-
rada. Our new companions were perfect specimens of the mixed
Berber and Sudan blood, and, notwithstanding all their faults,
most useful as guides. It was two hours after midnight when
we arrived ; and, after a short repose, we started again tolerably
early the next morning.

ALPINE LAKE— THE TAWA'TI. 213
For the first hour we kept along the vaUey, when we began
to ascend a narrow path winding round the slope of a steep
promontory of the plateau. The ruins of a castle at the bottom
of the valley formed an object of attraction.
The ascent took us almost an hour, when the defile opened to
a sort of plateau, with higher ground and cones to the left.
After another ascent, four miles further on, over a rocky slope
about 180 feet high and covered with sand, we encamped at an
early hour, as the heat was beginning to be felt, in a vaUey with
sidr-trees and grass, called Erazar-n-A'keru.
A large basin of water, formed by the rains in a small rocky
lateral glen joining the large vaUey on the west side, afforded a
delightful resting-place to the weary traveler. The basin, in
which the negro slaves of our Kel-owi swam about with im
mense delight, was about 200 feet long and 120 feet broad, and
very deep, having been hollowed out in the rocks by the violent
floods descending occasionally from the heights above. But on
a terrace about 200 feet higher up the cliffs I discovered another
basin of not more than about half the diameter of the former,
but likewise of great depth. All along the rocky slope between
these two basins cascades are formed during heavy rains, which
must render this a delightfully refreshing spot.
Sunday, July 28th. We soon emerged from the valley, and
entered a district of very irregular character, but affording herb
age enough for temporary settlements or encampments of the
Imghad, whose asses and goats testified that the country was
not quite uninhabited. Some people of our caravan saw the
guardians of these animals — negroes, clad in leather aprons.
Against the lower part of the cliffs, which rise abruptly on aU
sides, large masses of sand have accumulated, which, as in the
case of the upper vaUey of the Nile, might induce the observer
to beheve that aU the higher level was covered with sand, which
from thence had been driven down ; but this is not by any means
¦ the case.
I had a long conversation this morning with the Tawati 'Abd
¦ el Kader, who had come with the pilgrim-caravan as far as Ghat,
and, together with another companion, had attached himself to

214 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the Kel-owi in order to go to A'gades. He was a smart fellow,
of light complexion and handsome countenance, but had lost
one eye in a quarrel. He was armed with a long gun with a
good English lock, of which he was very proud. He had, when
young, seen the rais (Major Laing) at Tawat, and knew some
thing about Europeans, and chiefly Englishmen. Smart. and
active as this fellow was, he was so ungallant as to oblige his
young female slave, who was at once his mistress, cook, and
servant, to walk the whole day on foot, whUe he generally rode.
A little after noon we encamped in the corner of a valley rich
in sebot, and adorned with some talha-trees, at the foot of cliffs
of considerable height, which were to be ascended the following
day. Monday, July 29th. We began our task early in the morn
ing. The path, winding along through loose blocks on a pre
cipitous ascent, proved very difficult. Several loads were thrown
off the camels ; and the boat several times came into collision
with the rocks, which, but for its excellent material, might have
damaged it considerably. The whole of the cliffs consisted of
red sandstone, which was now and then interrupted by clay slate
of a greenish color. The ascent took us almost two hours; and
from the level of the plateau we obtained a view of the ridge
stretching toward Arikim, the passage of which was said to be
still more difficult. Having successively ascended and descend
ed a little, we then entered a tolerably-regular valley, and fol
lowed its windings tiU about noon, when we once more emerged
upon the rugged rocky level, where Amankay, the well-traveled
buzu or mulatto of Tasawa, brought us a draught of deliciously
cool water, which he had found in a hollow in the rocks. Here
our route meandered in a very remarkable way, so that I could
not lay aside my compass for a moment ; and the path was
sometimes reduced to a narrow crevice between curiously-ter
raced buttresses of rocks.
The ground having at length become more open, we encamp
ed about a quarter past three o'clock in a smaU ravine with a
little sprinkling of herbage.
Here we had reached an elevation of not less than 4000 feet

HIGH MOUNTAIN PASS.

215

above the sea — the greatest elevation of the desert to be passed,
or rather of that part of Africa over which our travels extended.
The rugged and bristling nature of this elevated tract prevented
our obtaining any extensive views. This region, if it were not
the wUdest and most rugged of the whole desert, limiting vege
tation to only a few narrow crevices and valleys, would be a
very healthy and agreeable abode for man, but it can only sup
port a few nomadic stragglers. This, I am convinced, is the
famous mountain Tantanah, the abode of the Azkar* mentioned
by the early Arabic geographers, although, instead of placing it
to the southwest of Fezzan, they generally give it a southerly
direction. I am not aware that a general name is now given to
this region.
But this highest part of the table-land rather forms a narrow
"col" or crest, from which, on the following morning, after a
winding march of a little more than three miles, we began to de
scend by a most picturesque passage into a deeper region. At
first we saw nothing but high cones towering over a hollow in
the ground ; but as we advanced along a lateral wadi of the val-
* See above, p. 198.

216 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ley which we had entered, the scenery assumed a grander as
pect, exhibiting features of such variety as we had not expected
to find in this desert country. WhUe our camels began slowly
to descend, one by one, the difficult passage, I sat down and
made the accompanying sketch of it, which wiU convey a better
idea of this abrupt cessation of the high sandstone level, with
the sloping strata of marl where it is succeeded by another for
mation — that of granite — than any verbal description would do.
The descent took us two hours, when we reached the bottom
of a narrow ravine about sixty feet broad, which at first was
strewn with large blocks carried down by occasional floods, but
a little farther on had a floor of fine sand and gravel. Here the
valley is joined by a branch wadi, or another ravine coming
from the north. , Near the junction it is tolerably wide ; but a
few hundred yards farther on it narrows between steep precipi
tous cliffs, looking almost like walls erected by the hand of
man, and more than a thousand feet high, and forms there a

pond of rain-water. While I was sketching this remarkable
place, I lost the opportunity of climbing up the wild ravine.

e&gb&S.

A

HsPSni

DEEP RAVINE OF E'GERI. 219
The locality was so interesting that I reluctantly took leave of
it, fuUy intending to return the following day with the camels
when they were to be watered ; but, unfortunately, the alarming
news which reached us at our camping-ground prevented my
doing so. I wiU only observe that this vaUey, which is gener
ally called E'geri, is identical with the celebrated valley Amais
or Mais, the name of which became known in Europe many
years ago.
A little beyond the junction of the branch ravine the valley
widens to about one hundred and fifty feet, and becomes over
grown with herbage, and ornamented with a few talha-trees,
and after being joined by another ravine, exhibits also colo-
cynths, and low but wide-spreading ethel-bushes, and, what
was more interesting to us, the 'ashur (or, as the Hausa people
caU it, "tunfafia," the Kanori "krunka," the Tawarek "tur-
sha"), the celebrated, wide-spread, and most important Ascle-
pias gigantea, which had here truly gigantic proportions, reach
ing to the height of twenty feet ; and being just then in flower,
with its white and violet colors it contributed much to the inter
est of the scene. Besides, there was the jadariyeh, well known
to us from the Hammada, and the shi'a or Artemisia odoratis-
sima, and a blue crucifera, identical, I think, with the daman-
kadda, of which I shaU have to speak repeatedly.
Having gone on a little more than three miles from the wa
tering-place, we encamped, and the whole expedition found am
ple room under the wide-spreading branches of a single ethel-
tree, the largest we had yet seen. Here the valley was about
half a mile broad, and altogether had a very pleasant character.
I was greatly mortified on reflecting that the uncertainty of
our relations in the country, and the precarious protection we
enjoyed, would not aUow me to visit Janet, the most favored
spot in this mountainous region ; but a great danger was sud
denly announced to us, which threatened even to drive us from
that attractive spot. An expedition had been prepared against
us by the mighty chieftain Sidi* Jafel inek (son of) Sakertaf,
* The appellative Sidi appears to be an honorable distinction among the Ho
gar, and the messenger who brought us this news generally called the chieftain

220 Travels in Africa.
to whom a great number of the Imghad settled thereabouts are
subject as bondmen or serfs.
Upon the circumstances of this announcement and its conse
quences, which have been fully detaUed by the late Mr. Bich-
ardson, I shall not dwell, but wiU only observe that this trans
action made us better acquainted with the character of each of
our new friends. There were three principal men in the Kel-
owi caravan with which we had associated our fortunes, A'nnur
(or, properly, E' Nur), Didi, and Farreji. A'nnur was a relative
of the powerful Kel-owi chief of the same name, and, in order
to distinguish him from the latter, was generally called A'nnur
karami, or the little A'nnur. He was of agreeable, prepossess
ing countenance and of pleasing manners, but without much en
ergy, and any thing but warlike. Didi and Farreji were both
liberated slaves, but of very different appearance and character.
The former was slim, with marked features indicating a good
deal of cunning ; the latter was a tolerably large man, with
broad, coarse features, which weU expressed his character, the
distinguishing trait of which was undisguised malice. When
a new demand was to be put forth, Farreji took the lead, and,
with an impudent air, plainly stated the case ; Didi kept back,
assisting his companion under-hand ; and A'nnur was anxious
to give to the whole a better appearance, and to soothe our in
dignation. The whole affair having been arranged, and the stipulation
being made that,, in case the direct road should become imprac
ticable, our Kel-owi were to lead us by a more eastern one,
where we should not meet with any one, we started in good
spirits on the morning of the 1st of August, and soon emerged
from the vaUey by a southern branch, while the surrounding
cliffs gradually became much lower and flatter. Here we ob
served that granite had superseded the sandstone, appearing
first in low bristled ridges crossing the bottom of the valley in
of whom he spoke only by this name, Sidi. This is also the name by which Sul
tan Shafo's father is generally called. The whole tribe of the Uraghen seem6
even to have the surname Sid-azkar. To what extent this name Sidi is abused
in Timbuktu I shall have occasion to observe in the further course of my travels.

DESERT PLAIN OF MARIAW. 221
paraUel lines running from W.N.W. to E.S.E., and gradually
occupying the whole district, while the sand, which before form
ed the general substance of the lower ground, was succeeded by
gravel. Our path now wound through irregular defiles and
small plains inclosed by low ridges of granite blocks, generally
. bare, but in some places adorned with talha-trees of fine fresh
foliage. The whole country assumed quite a different aspect.
Our day's journey was pleasantly varied by our meeting with
the van of a large caravan belonging to the wealthy Fezzani
merchant Khueldi, which had separated in Air on account of
the high prices of provisions there. They carried with them
from forty to fifty slaves, most of them females, the greater
part tolerably weU made. Each of our Kel-owi produced from
his provision-bags a measure of dates, and threw them into a
cloth, which the leader of the caravan, a man of grave and hon
est countenance, had spread on the ground. A little before
noon we encamped in a sort of wide but shallow valley called
Ejenjer, where, owing to the junction of several smaller branch-
vales collecting the moisture of a large district, a little sprinkling
of herbage was produced, and a necessary halting-place formed
for the caravans coming from the north, before they enter upon
the naked desert, which stretches out toward the southwest for
several days' journey. The camels were left grazing the whole
night, in order to pick up as large a provision as possible from
the scanty pasture.
August 2d. We entered upon the first regular day's march
since we left Ghat. After a stretch of nine miles, an interest
ing peak called Mount Tiska, rising to an elevation of about
600 feet, and surrounded by some smaUer, cones, formed the
conspicuous limit of the rocky ridges. The country became
entirely flat and level, but with a gradual ascent, the whole
ground being formed of coarse gravel ; and there was nothing to
interrupt the monotonous plain but a steep ridge, caUed Maria w,
at the distance of about five miles to the east.
The nature of this desert region is well understood by the
nomadic Tawarek or Imoshagh, who regard the Mariaw as the
landmark of the open uninterrupted desert plain, the "tenere;"

222 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

and a remarkable song of theirs, which often raised the enthu
siasm of our companions, begins thus :
" Mariaw da tenere nis" (We have reached Mariaw and the desert-plain). '
The aspect of this uninterrupted plain seemed to inspire our
companions, and with renewed energy we pursued our dreary
path till after sunset, when we encamped upon this bare gravel
ly plain, entirely destitute of herbage, and without the smallest
fragment of wood for fuel ; and I was glad to get a cup of tea
with my cold supper of zummita. Even in these hot regions
the European requires some warm food or beverage.
The next morning, all the people being eager to get away
from this dreary spot, every small party started as it got ready,
without waiting for the rest, in order to reach as soon as possi
ble the region of the sand-hiUs, which we saw before us at the
distance of a little more than five miles, and which promised to
the famished camels at least a slight repast. Herbage was
scattered in bunches all about the sides of the sand-hills, and
a number of butter- and dragon-flies greatly relieved the dreary
scene. After a while the sand-hills ranged themselves more on
both sides, while our road led over harder sandy soil, till the
highest range crossed our path, and we began to ascend it, wind
ing along its lower parts. Granite, lying a few feet under the
surface, in several spots checkered the sand, tinged with a pret
ty blue.
A little after midday we emerged from the sand-hills, and en
tered a plain from two to three miles wide, bounded on both
sides by sand-hills, and were here gratified with the view of

AFALE'SSELEZ. 223
shifting lakes which the mirage set before our eyes. Then fol
lowed another narrow range of sand-hiUs, succeeded by a barren
open plain, and then another very considerable bank of sand,
leaning on a granite ridge. After a steep ascent of forty-five
minutes we reached the highest crest, and obtained an extensive
prospect over the country before us — a desert plain interspersed
by smaUer sand-hiUs and naked ledges of rock, and speckled
with ethel-bushes half overwhelmed by sand, at the foot of a
higher range of sand-hills ; for sand-hUls are the landmark of
Afalesselez, and the verse of the desert-song celebrating Mari
aw as the landmark of the open gravelly desert plain is suc
ceeded by another celebrating the arrival at Afalesselez and its
sand-hills : "In- Afalesselez dajede nis."
Having long looked down from this barbacan of sand to see
whether aU was safe near that important place whence we were
to take our supply for the next stretch of dry desert land, we
descended along the southwestern slope, and there encamped.
After a march of Httle more than four miles the next morning
we reached the weU Falesselez or Afalesselez. This camping-
ground had not a bit of shade ; for the few ethel-bushes, all of
them starting forth from mounds of not less than forty feet ele
vation, were very low, and almost covered with sand. Besides,
the gravelly ground was covered with camels' dung and impu-
rities of a more disagreeable nature ; and there was not a bit of
herbage in the neighborhood, so that the camels, after having
" been watered, had to be driven to a distance of more than eight
' miles, where they remained during the night and the following
" day till noon, and whence they brought back a supply of herb-
:, age for the next night.
But, notwithstanding its extraordinary dreariness, this place
is of the greatest importance for the caravan-trade, on account
:' of the well, which affords a good supply of very tolerable water.
" At first it was very dirty and discolored, but it gradually be
came clearer, and had but Httle after-taste. The well was five
¦¦> fathoms deep, and not more than a foot and a half wide at the
J top, while lower down it widened considerably. It is formed

224 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of the wood of the ethel-tree. The temperature of the water,
giving very nearly the temperature of the atmosphere in this
region, was 77°.
After the camels had gone our encampment became very
lonely and desolate, and nothing was heard but the sound of
ghussub-pounding. The Kel-owi had encamped at some dis
tance, on the slope of the sand-hiUs. It was a very sultry day
— the hottest day in this first part of our journey — the ther
mometer, in the very best shade which we were able to obtain,
showing 111° -2 heat, which, combined with the dreary monoto
ny of the place, was quite exhausting. There was not a breath
of air in the morning ; nevertheless, it was just here that we re
marked the first signs of our approaching the tropical regions,
for in the afternoon the sky became so thickly overcast with
clouds that we entertained the hope of being refreshed by a few
drops of rain. In the night a heavy gale blew from the east.
Next day came Utaeti. On his fine meheri, enveloped as he
was in his blue Sudan-cloth, he made a good figure. The re
ply which he made when Mr. Richardson asked him how his
father had received the present of the sword which H. B. M.'s
government had sent him, was characteristic: the sword, he said,
was a small present, and his father had expected to receive a
considerable sum of money into the bargain. He informed us
also that by our not coming to Arikim we had greatly disap
pointed the Tawarek settled thereabouts.
Tuesday, August 6th. The sand-hiUs which we ascended after
starting were not very high, but after a while we had to make
another ascent. Sometimes small ridges of quartzose sand
stone setting right across our path, at others ethel-bushes, gave
a little variety to the waste ; and at the distance of about eight
miles from the well, singularly-shaped conical mounts began to
rise. The eastern road, wliich is a Httle more circuitous, is but
a few hours' distance from this. It leads through a valley at
the foot of a high conical mount, with temporary ponds of rain
water and herbage called Shambakesa, which about noon we
passed at some distance on our left.
In the afternoon we came in sight of a continuous range of

WILD OXEN IN THE DESERT. 225
heights ahead of us. The whole region exhibited an interest
ing intermixture of granite and sandstone formation, white and
red sandstone protruding in several places, and the ground be
ing strewn with fragments of granite and gneiss. Passing at
one time over gravel, atN another over rocky ground strewn with
pebbles, we encamped at length in a sort of shallow valley called
Taghareben, on the north side of a very remarkable mass of
curiously-shaped sandstone blocks, heaped together in the most
singular manner, and rising altogether to a height of about 150
feet. On inspecting it more closely, I found that it consisted
of four distinct buttresses, between which large masses of loose
sand had collected, the sandstone being of a beautiful white
color, and in a state of the utmost disintegration..
After a weary day's march, the camping-ground, adorned as
it was with some fine talha-trees, and surrounded with small
ridges and detached masses of rock, on which now depended the
beauty of the scene, cheered our minds, and fitted us for anoth
er long day's work. Soon after we started the ground became
rugged and stony, and fuU of ridges of sandstone, bristling
with smaU points and peaks. In this wild and rugged ground
our people amused themselves and us with hunting down a
lizard, which tried to escape from the hands of its pursuers in
the crevices of the rocky buttresses. Then followed broad shal
low vaUeys, at times overgrown with a little herbage, but gen-
eraUy very barren ; winding along them we turned round a large
cluster of heights which seemed to obstruct our route. Bare
and desolate as the country appears, it is covered, as well as the
whole centre of the desert, with large herds of wild oxen {An-
Mlqpe bubalis), which rove about at large, and, according as
they are more or less hunted, linger in favored districts or
change their haunts. Our men tried to catch them, but were
unsuccessful, the animal, clumsy and sluggish as it appears,
climbing the rocks with much more ease than men unaccustom
ed to this sort of sport, and, owing to the ruggedness of the
ground, being soon lost sight of.
At five o'clock in the afternoon the heights on our left rose to
a greater elevation, as much as 1000 feet, bristling with cones,
* Vol. I.-P

226

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

and formed more picturesque masses. Resting on the spurs of
the mountain range was a peculiar knot of cliffs, ridges of rocks,
and isolated perpendicular pillars, through which our road led
with a gradual ascent till we reached the highest ground, and
then descended into a shaUow valley furnished with a tolerable
supply of herbage and a few talha-trees, some of which, with
their young leaves, soon attracted the attention of the famished
camels. The poor animals were left grazing aU night, which re
cruited their strength a little. These long stretches were fa
tiguing both for man and beast ; and they were the more trying
for the traveler, as, instead of approaching by them in long
strides the wished-for regions to the south, there was scarcely
any advance at aU in that direction, the whole route leading to
the west.
Thursday, August 8th. After a mUe and a half's march the
country became more open and free, and those ridges of granite
rock which had been characteristic of the region just passed
over ceased ; but ahead of us considerable mountain masses
were seen, the whole mountainous district, in which the long
range called Isetteti is conspicuous, being named A'nahef. Aft- ,
er a march of about ten miles, a path branched off from our road
toward the west, leading to a more favored place called Tadent,*
where the moisture collected by the mountain masses around
seems to produce a richer vegetation, so that it is the constant
residence of some Azkar famUies ; it is distant from this place
about sixteen mUes. Here some advanced heights approach
the path, and more talha-trees appear ; and farther on the bot
tom of the fiumara was richly overgrown with bu-rekkebah
{A vena ForsJcalii), grass very much liked by the camels, and
which we had not observed before on our route. The country
ahead of us formed a sort of defile, into which I thought we
should soon enter, when suddenly, behind the spur of a ridge
projecting into the plain on our left, we changed our direction,
and entering a wide vaUey inclosed- by two picturesque ranges
of rocks, we there encamped.
* In Mr. Richardson's Journal, vol. i., p. 194, this place has been confounded
with Janet, the name having been probably written in the MS. "Tanet," a form1
used also by Mr. Overweg, and which seems to be verified.

NGHA'KELI. 227
The vaUey is caUed Nghakeli, and is remarkable as weU on
account of its picturesque appearance as because it indicates the
approach to a more favored region. Besides being richly over
grown with luxuriant herbage of different species, as sebot, bu-
rekkebah, shi'a, and adorned with fine talha-trees, it exhibited
the first specimens of the Balanites JEgyptiaca (or "hajUij,"
as it is caUed by the Arabs, " addwa" by the Hausa people),
the rope-like roots of which, loosened by the torrent which at
times sweeps along the valley, grew to an immense length over
the ground. I walked up the vaUey to a distance of two mUes.
Compared with the arid country we had been traveling over
latterly, it made upon me just the same impression which the
finest spots of Italy would produce on a traveler visiting them
from the north of Europe. The Kel-owi had chosen the most
shady talha-tree for a few hours' repose, and I sat down a mo
ment in their company. They gave me a treat of their palata
ble fura, or ghussub-water, the favorite (and in a great many
cases the only) dish of the Absenawa.
In the evening Mr. Richardson bought from some sportsmen
a quantity of the meat of the wadan, or (as the Tawarek caU it)
audad {Ovis tragelaphoi), an animal very common in the mount
ainous districts of the desert, and very often found in company
with the wild ox. As for myself, I kept my tent, filling up
from my memorandum-book my last day's journal, and then, full
of the expectation that we were now about to enter more pleas
ant regions, lay down on my hard couch.

228

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

CHAPTER XII.
DANGEROUS APPROACH TO ASBEN.
Friday, August 9th. There had been much talk about our
starting at midnight ; but, fortunately, we did not get off before
daylight, so that I was able to continue my exact observations
of the route, which was now to cross the defile observed yester
day afternoon, which afready began to impart quite a character
istic aspect to the country. There were some beautifully-shapei
cones rising around it, while beyond them an uneven tract stretch
ed out, crowded with smaU elevations, which gradually rose to
greater height ; among them one peak, of very considerable ele
vation, was distinguished by its graceful form, and seemed wor
thy of a sketch. Attached to it was a lower rocky range, with

a very marked horizontal crest, while running parallel to our
path were small ledges of gneiss. After a march of seven miles
and a half we ascended a considerable range of rugged emi
nences, from the crest of which we foUowed a steep descent into
an uneven rocky tract, intersected by several shallow beds of
torrents ; and then, just as the heat began, we reached the val
ley of Arokam, where we encamped at about half an hour's dis
tance from the well, and opposite to a branch wadi, through
which lay our next day's route. In the afternoon I climbed the

VALLEY OF ARO'KAM.

229

highest of the cones rising above the cliffs, but without obtain
ing any distant prospect.
Saturday, August 10th. The active buzu Amankay, who
early in the morning went once more to the well in order to fiU
a few water-skins, brought the news that a considerable cara
van, consisting chiefly of AnisHmen or Merabetin from Tinta-
ghode, had arrived at the well the evening before, on their road
to Ghat, and that they protested against our visiting their coun
try, and still more against our approaching their town. Not
withstanding the bad disposition of these people toward us, I
managed to induce one of them, who visited our encampment,
to take charge of letters addressed by me to Haj Ibrahim, in
Ghat, which I am glad to say arrived safely in Europe. Aman
kay reported to us that on his way to the well he had observed
a small palm-tree.
We started rather late in the morning, entering the branch
wadi, which proved to be far more considerable than it seemed,
and rich in talha-trees. In this way we kept winding along
several vaUeys, till, after a march of three miles, we ascended
and crossed a very interesting defile, or a sHp in the line of ele
vation, bordered on both sides by a terraced and indented slope,

the highest peaks of the ridge rising to not less than a thousand
feet, while their general elevation was about six hundred feet.

230

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

Mr. Overweg recognized this as gneiss. Close beyond this de
file, at the foot of mounds of disintegrated granite, we encamp
ed, to our great astonishment, a little after eight o'clock in the
morning ; but the reason of this short march was, that our com
panions, on account of the arrival of the caravan above mention
ed, did not choose to stop at our former encampment, else they
would have rested there to-day. In the afternoon a high wind
arose, which upset our tent.
Sunday, August 11th. After a march of Httle more than two
mUes over an irregular tract of granite, in a state of great dis
integration, intersected by crests of gneiss, we obtained from a
higher level an interesting view over the whole region, and saw
that beyond the hilly ground of broken granite a large plain of
firm gravelly soU spread out, surrounded by a circle of higher
mounts. Then followed a succession of flat shallow valleys
overgrown with sebot and talha-trees, tiU the ridges on the right
and left (the latter rising to about 800 feet) approached each
other, forming a sort of wider passage or defile. The spur of
the range to the left, with its strongly-marked and indented
crest, formed quite an interesting feature.

Beyond this passage we entered a bare graveUy plain, from
which rose a few detached mounts, foUowed by more continu
ous ranges forming more or less regular valleys. The most re
markable of these is the vaUey Asettere, which, in its upper
course, where it is called A'kafa, is supplied by the famous well
Tajetterat;* but, as we were sufficiently supplied with water
* The two names Asettere and Tajetterat are apparently derived from to
same root.

ASE'TTERE. 231
from Arokam, and as the weU Aisalen was near, we left it on
one side.
We encamped at length in a vaUey joined by several branch
vales, and therefore affording a good supply of herbage, which
the Kel-owi were anxious to collect as a supply for the journey
over the entirely bare tract to Asiu. As for ourselves, one of
our servants being utterly unfit for work, we could not lay in
a supply. We had been rather unfortunate with this ' feUow ;
for, having hired him in Murzuk, he was laid up with the Guinea-
worm from the very day that we left Ghat, and was scarcely of
any use at aU. This disease is extremely frequent among peo
ple traveling along this route ; Amankay also was suffering from
it, and at times became quite a burden. It attacked James
Bruce even after his return to Europe ; and I always dreaded
it more than any other disease during my travels in Central Af
rica ; but, fortunately, by getting a less serious one, which I may
call sore legs, I got rid of the causes which I am sure, when act
ing in a stronger degree, produce the vena.
About sunset I ascended the eastern cliffs, which are very
considerable, and from the highest peak, which rose to an eleva
tion of more than 1200. feet above the bottom of the vaUey, ob
tained an extensive view. The whole formation consists of
granite, and its kindred forms of mica, quartz, and feldspar. The
bottom of the vaUey bore evident traces of a small torrent which
seems to refresh the soU occasionaUy ; and the same was the
case with several smaU ravines which descend from the south
eastern cliffs.
Monday, August 12th. Our route foUowed the windings of
the valley, which, farther on, exhibited more ethel than talha-
trees, besides detached specimens of the Asclepias. After a
march of four miles and a half we came to two weUs about four
feet deep, and took in a small supply of water. The granite for
mation at the foot of the cliffs on our left was most beautiful,
'looking very like syenite. While we were taking in the water,
flocks of wild-fowl {Pterocles) were flying over our heads, and
expressed by repeated cries their dissatisfaction at our disturb
ing their solitary retreat. The ethel, the talha, and the addwa,
or aborak, enHven these secluded valleys.

232 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Delighted by the report of Amankay, who came to meet us,
that he had succeeded in detaining the caravan of the Tinylkum
at Aisala, where they were waiting for us, we cheerfully contin
ued our march ; but before we reached the place the whole char
acter of the country changed, the cliffs being craggy and split
into huge blocks, heaped upon each other in a true Cyclopean
style, such as only Nature can execute, while the entire hollow
was covered with granite masses, scarcely allowing a passage.
Descending these, we got sight of the encampment of the cara
van in a widening of the hollow ; and, after paying ottr compli
ments to all the members of this motley band, we encamped a
little be"yond, in a recess of the western cliffs.
The Tinylkum* as weU as Boro Serki-n-turawa were very
scantily provided. They had lost so much time on the road on
our account that it was necessary, as well as just, to leave them
part of the provisions which they were carrying for us. All our
luggage we found in the best state. Very much against their
will, our companions had been supplied on the road with the
flesh of nine camels, which had succumbed to the fatigues of the
march ; and some of them, and especially our energetic friend
Haj 'Omar, had obtained a tolerable supply by hunting : besides
wad&ns, they had killed also several gazeUes, though we had
scarcely seen any.
They had been lingering in this place four days, and were
most anxious to go on. But we had a great deal to do ; for all
our luggage was to be repacked, all the water-skins to be filled,
and herbage and wood to be collected for the road. Besides
Ibrahim, who was lame and useless, Overweg and myself had
* I give here a list of the stations of their route from Elawen :
Em-eriwuang, with water, one day ; Inar-amas, one long day ; Tiballaghen,
with water when there has been much rain, one day ; Terhen, with water, one
day ; Tin-afarfa, mountain range with sand, one day ; Takiset, a valley between
high mountains, three days, two of them over very sandy ground; Arikim, with
water at all times; Iseti, a valley, two days; Tamiswat, valley with water, one
day ; Morer, high mountains, two days ; Falesselez, one day, over a gravelly
hammada ; Tamba- or Shamba-kesa, a, shallow valley rich in herbage (see p.
221), one day ; Tirarien, one day ; Araer, hammada with shallow valleys, one
day ; Tafak, one day ; Arokam, water, one day ; Tadomat, valley, one day; Ka-
telet, one day ; Aisala or Isala, one day.

AN INSCRIPTION. 233
only two servants, one of whom (Mohammed, the liberated Tu
nisian slave) was at times a most insolent rascal.
Besides, we were pestered by the Kel-owi and by Utaeti, and
I got into a violent dispute with Farreji, the shameless freed-
slave of Lusu ; stiU I managed, on the morning of the following
day, to rove about a little. Just above the well rises a confused
mass of large granite blocks, the lowest range of which was cov
ered with Tefinagh inscriptions, one of n /— m— . . ^ .
which I copied. It was written with un- ^^-^41'
common accuracy and neatness, and, if found near the coast,
would be generaUy taken for Punic* I was obliged to be cau
tious, as there was a great deal of excitement and irritation in
the caravan, and, from what had previously taken place, all the
way from Murzuk, every body regarded us as the general pur
veyors, and cherished the ardent hope that at last it would be
his good fortune, individuaUy, to get possession of our property.
In the afternoon the Tinylkum started in advance, and we
followed them, the hoUow gradually widening and becoming
clothed with large knots of ethel-bushes. At the point where
this valley joins another, and where a large quantity of herbage
bedecked the ground, we found our friends encamped, and chose
our ground a little beyond them, near a low cliff of granite rocks.
All the people were busily employed cutting herbage for the
journey, while Mr. Richardson at length succeeded in satisfying
Utaeti, who was to return. He had been begging most impor
tunately from me; and, by way of acknowledging my obligations
to him, I presented him, on parting, with a piece of white mus
lin and a red sash, together with something for Hatita.
These parties were scarcely quieted when others took their
place, urging their pretensions to our acknowledgments ; and
we had just started the next day when Boro Serki-n-turawa
dispatched, underhand, my smart friend the Tawati 'Abd el Ka.-
der, with full instructions to give me a lecture on his boundless
power and influence in the country which we were fast approach
ing. I was aware of this before, and knew that, in our situa
tion as unprotected travelers in a new country, we ought to have
* I read it " enfadmaschbel."

234 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
secured his friendly disposition from the beginning; but the
means of the expedition being rather limited, Mr. Richardson
had made it a principle never to give tiU compeUed by the ut
most necessity, when the friendly obligation connected with the
present was, if not destroyed, at least greatly diminished.
The structure of the valley soon became irregular, and the
character of the country more desolate, a circumstance which
seems to be expressed by its name, Ikademmelrang. All was
granite in a state of the utmost disintegration, and partly re
duced to gravel, while detached cones were rising in all direc
tions. Marching along over this dreary and desolate country,
we reached, at half past two in the afternoon, after a gradual
and almost imperceptible ascent, the highest-level of the desert
plain, from whence the isolated rocky cones and ridges look like
so many islands rising from the sea. A sketch which I made
of one of these mounts wiU give an idea of their character.

After a march of twelve hours and a half, which I would have
gladly doubled, provided our steps had been directed in a straight
line toward the longed-for regions of Negroland, we encamped on
hard ground, so that we had great difficulty in fixing the pegs
of our tents. The sky was overcast with thick clouds, but
our hopes of a refreshing rain were disappointed.
Thursday, August 15M. The character of the country con
tinued the same, though the weather was so foggy that the
heights at some distance were quite enveloped, and became en
tirely invisible. This was a sure indication of our approaching
tropical dimes. After a march of three miles and a half the
ground became more nigged for a short time, but was soon suc
ceeded by a gravelly plain. The sky had become thickly
clouded ; and in the afternoon a high wind arose, succeeded,

o

MARAHRABA. 235
about two o'clock, by heavy rain, and by distant thunder, while
the atmosphere was exceedingly heavy, and made us all feel
drowsy. It was three o'clock when we arrived at the Mararraba,* the
" half-way" between Ghat and Air, a place regarded with a kind
of religious awe by the natives, who, in passing, place each a
stone upon the mighty granite blocks which mark the spot.
To our left we had irregular rocky ground, with a few eleva
tions rising to a greater height, and ahead a very remarkable
granite crest, sometimes rising, at others descending, with its
slopes enveloped in sand up to the very top. This ridge, which
is caUed Gifengwetang, and which looks very much like an arti
ficial wall erected between the dry desert and the more favored
region of the tropics, we crossed, further on, through an open
ing like a saddle, and among sand-hills, where the slaves of our
companions ran about to pick up and collect the few tufts of
herbage that were scattered over the surface, in order to furnish
a fresh mouthful to the poor wearied animals. At four o'clock
the sand-hills ceased, and were succeeded by a wide pebbly
plain, on which, after six miles' traveling, we encamped.
Our encampment was by no means a quiet one ; and to any
one who paid due attention to the character and disposition of
the people, serious indications of a storm, which was gathering
over us, became visible. Mohammed Boro, who had so often
given vent to his feeHngs of revenge for the neglect with which
he had been treated, was aU fire and fury ; and, stirring up the
whole encampment, he summoned all the people to a councU,
having, as he said, received intelligence that a large party of
Hogar was coming to Asiu. Not having paid much attention
to the report about Sidi Jafel's expedition, I became anxious
when made aware of the man's fury, for I knew the motives
which actuated him.
Friday, August 16th. We started early. Gravelly and
pebbly grounds succeeded each other, the principal formation
* This is a Hausa word, from " raba" (to divide) ; and I shall have to notice,
in the course of my proceedings, several localities so designated on various
routes.

236 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
being granite ; but when, after a march of about thirteen miles,
we passed the narrow sandy spur of a considerable ridge ap
proaching our left, a fine species of white marble became visi
ble. We then passed a rugged district, of peculiar and desolate
appearance, called Ibellakang, and crossed a ridge of gneiss
covered with gravel. Here, while a thunder-storm was rising
in the east, our caravan, to our great regret, divided, the Tinyl
kum turning off toward the east, in order, as we were told, to
look for a little herbage among the sand-hills. Meanwhile,
thick, heavy clouds, which had been discharging a great quan
tity of rain toward the east, broke over us at a quarter past four
o'clock in the afternoon, when we were just in the act of cross
ing another rocky crest covered with gravel. A violent sand
storm, foUowed by heavy rain, which was driven along by a fu
rious gale, soon threw the caravan into the utmost confusion,
and made aU observation impossible ; but, fortunately, it did
not last long.
It was on descending from this crest, while the weather clear
ed up, that the Hausa slaves, with a feeling of pride and joy,
pointed out in the far distance " dutsi-n-Absen" (Mount Ab-
sen). Here the granite formation had been gradually succeeded
by sandstone and slate. This district, indeed, seems to be the
line of demarcation between two different zones.
At twenty minutes past six o'clock we at length encamped,
but were again in the saddle at eleven o'clock at night, and in
pale moonlight, sleepy and worn out as we were, began a dread
ful night's march. But altogether it proved to be a wise meas
ure taken by the Kel-owi, who had reason to be afraid lest the
Hogar, of whom they appeared to have trustworthy news, might
overtake us before we reached the wells of Asiu, and then treat
us as they pleased. Our companions, who were, of course,
themselves not quite insensible to fatigue, as night advanced
became very uncertain in their direction, and kept much too far
to the south. When day dawned, our road lay over a flat,
rocky, sandstone surface, while we passed on our left a locality
remarkable for nothing but its name, Efinagha.* We then
* This name is evidently identical with the name given to the Berber alphabet,

ASHJ. 237
descended from the rocky ground into the extremely shallow
valley of Asiu, overgrown with scanty herbage of a kind not
much liked by the camels. Here we encamped, near a group
of four weUs, which stUl belong to the Azkar, while a little far
ther on there are others which the Kel-owi regard as their own
property. How it was that we did not encamp near the latter
I can not say. But the people were glad to have got so far.
The weUs, or at least two of them, afforded an abundant supply
of water ; but it was not of a good quality, and had a peculiar
taste, I think on account of the iron ore with which it was im
pregnated. This, then, was Asiu,* a place important for the caravan-
trade at aU times, on account of the routes from Ghadames and
from Tawat joining here, and which did so even as far back as
the time when the famous traveler Ebn Batuta returned from his
enterprising journey to Sudan homeward by way of Tawat (in the
year 1353-4). Desolate and melancholy as it appeared, it was
also an important station to us, as we thought that we had now
left the most difficult part of the journey behind us ; for, though
I myself had some forebodings of a danger threatening us, we
had no idea that the difficulties which we should have to en
counter were incomparably greater than those which we had
passed through. Mr. Richardson supposed that because we had
reached the imaginary frontier of the territories of the Azkar and
Kel-owi, we were beyond the reach of any attack from the
north. With the utmost obstinacy he reprobated as absurd
any supposition that such a frontier might be easily crossed by
nomadic roving tribes, asserting that these frontiers in the des
ert were respected much more scrupulously than any frontier
of Austria, notwithstanding the innumerable host of its land-
which is called tefinaghen ; but the coincidence will cease to surprise when I
remark that both words mean nothing but' signs, tokens, a name which may be
given as well to letters as to a district remarkable for the position of some stones
or ridges. The Tawarek, as I shall have occasion to mention in another part of
niy narrative, call all sorts of writing not written in signs, but with letters, tefina
ghen. The learned among the Tademekket and Awelimmiden were greatly sur
prised, when going attentively over my English books, to find it was all tefinaghen
—"tefinagh rurret."
* The form Aisou, in Mr. Richardson's Journal, is only a clerical error.

238 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
waiters. But he was soon to be undeceived on aU the points
of his desert diplomacy, at his own expense and that of us all.
There was very little attraction for roving about in this broad
gravelly plain. Now and then a group of granite blocks inter
rupted the monotonous level, bordered on the north by a grad-
uaUy-ascending rocky ground, while the southern border rose to
a somewhat higher elevation.
Desolate as the spot was, and gloomy as were our prospects,
the arrival of the Tinylkum in the course of the afternoon afford
ed a very cheerful sight, and inspired some confidence, as we
felt that our little party had once more resumed its strength.
All the people, however, displayed an outward show of tranquil
lity and security with the exception of Serki-n-turawa, who
was bustling about in a state of the utmost excitement. Wa
tering the camels and filling the water-skins employed the whole
day. Sunday, August 18th. After a two hours' march we began
to ascend, first gradually, then more steeply, all the rocks here
abouts consisting of slate, greatly split and rent, and covered
with sand. In twenty-five minutes we reached the higher lev
el, which consisted of pebbly ground with a ridge running, at
the distance of about four mUes, to the west.
While we were quietly pursuing our road, with the Kel-owi in
(he van, the Tinylkum marching in the rear, suddenly Moham
med the Sfaksi came running behind us, swinging his musket
over his head, and crying lustily, " He awelad, awelad bu, 'adu-
na ja" (" Lads, lads, our enemy has come"), and spreading the
utmost alarm through the whole of the caravan. Every body
seized his arms, whether musket, spear, sword, or bow ; and
whosoever was riding jumped down from his camel. Some
time elapsed before it was possible, amid the noise and uproar,
to learn the cause of the alarm. At length it transpired. A
man named Mohammed, belonging to the caravan, haying re
mained a little behind at the well, had observed three Tawarek
mounted on mehara approaching at a rapid rate ; and while he
himself followed the caravan, he left his slave behind to see
whether others were in the rear. The slave, after a while, over-

APPROACH OF THE ENEMY. 239
took him with the news that several more camels had become
visible in the distance, and then Mohammed and his slave hur
ried on to bring us the intelligence. Even Mr. Richardson, who,
being rather hard of hearing, judged of our situation only from
the alarm, descended from his slender little she-camel and cock
ed his pistols. A wariike spirit seemed to have taken posses
sion of the whole caravan ; and I am persuaded that, had we
been attacked at this moment, all would have fought valiantly.
But such is not the custom of freebooting parties : they will
cling artfuUy to a caravan, and first introduce themselves in a
tranquil and peaceable way, tUl they have succeeded in disturb
ing the Httle unity which exists in such a troop, composed as it
is of the most different elements ; they then graduaUy throw off
the mask, and in general attain their object.
When at length a Httle tranquillity had been restored, and
plenty of powder and shot had been distributed among those
armed with firelocks, the opinion began to prevail that, even if
the whole of the report should be true, it was not probable that
we should be attacked by daylight. We therefore continued
our march with a greater feeHng of security, while a body of
archers was dispatched to learn the news of a small caravan
which was coming from Sudan, and marching at some distance
from us, behind a low ridge of rocks. They were a few Tebu,
with ten camels and between thirty and forty slaves, uncon
sciously going to meet a terrible fate ; for we afterward learned
that the Imghad of the Hogar, or rather the Hadanara, disap
pointed at our having passed through their country without
their getting any thing from us, had attacked this little troop,
murdering the Tebu, and carrying off their camels and slaves.
While the caravan was going slowly on, I was enabled to
allow my meheri a little feeding on the nesi {Panicum grossu-
larium, much liked by camels) in a spot caUed Tahasasa. At
noon we began to ascend on rocky ground, and, after a very grad
ual ascent of three miles, reached the higher level, strewn with
pebbles, but exhibiting further on a rugged slaty soil, till we
reached the vaUey Fenorang.f This valley, which is a little less
* Mr. Richardson calls it Takeesat.

240 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
than a mile in breadth, is famous for its rich supply of herbage,
principally of the kind called bu-rekkeba, and the far-famed el
had (the camel's dainty), and is on this account an important
halting-place for the caravans coming from the north, after hav
ing traversed that naked part of the desert, which produces
scarcely any food for the camel. Notwithstanding, therefore,
the danger which threatened us, it . was determined to remain
here not only this, but also the following day.
As soon as the loads were taken off their backs, the half-
starved camels fell to devouring eagerly the fine herbage offered
them. Meanwhile we encamped as close together as possible,
preparing ourselves for the worst, and looking anxiously around
in every direction. But nobody was to be seen till the even
ing, when the three men on their mehara made their appearance,
and, being allowed to approach the caravan, made no secret of
the fact that a greater number was behind them.
Aware of what might happen, our small troop had all their
arms ready, in order to repulse any attack ; but the Kel-owi
and the few Askar who were in our caravan kept us back, and,
after a little talk, allowed the visitors to lie down for the night
near our encampment, and even solicited our hospitality in their
behalf. Nevertheless, aU of them weU knew that the strangers
were freebooters, who could not but have bad designs against
us ; and the experienced old Awed el Kher, the sheikh of the
Kafila, came expressly to us, warning and begging us to be on
our guard, while Boro Serki-n-turawa began to play a conspic
uous part, addressing the Kel-owi and Tinylkum in a formal
speech, and exhorting them to stand by us. Every body was
crying for powder, and nobody could get enough. Our clever
but occasionally very troublesome servant Mohammed conceived
a strategical plan, placing on the north side of the two tents the
four pieces of the boat, behind each of which one of us had to
take his station in case of an attack.
Having had some experience of freebooters' practices in, my
former wanderings, I knew that all this was mere farce and
mockery, and the only way of insuring our safety would have
been to prevent these scouts from approaching us at all. We

•ABD EL KA'DER. 241
kept watch the whole night ; and of course the strangers, seeing
us well on our guard, and the whole caravan still in high spirits
and in unity, ventured upon nothing.
In the morning our three guests (who, as I made out, did not
belong to the Azkar, but were Kel-fade from the northern dis
tricts of Air) went slowly away, but only to join their compan
ions, who had kept at some distance beyond the rocky ridge
which bordered, or, rather, interrupted the valley to the west
ward. There some individuals of the caravan, who went to cut
herbage, found the fresh traces of nine camels. In spite of out
ward tranquillity, there was much matter for anxiety and much
restlessness in the caravan, and suddenly an alarm was given
that the camels had been stolen ; but, fortunately, it proved to
be unfounded.
'Abd el Kader, the Tawati of whom I have spoken above,
trying to take advantage of this state of things, came to Mr.
Overweg, and earnestly pressed him to deposit every thing of
value with Awed el Kher, the Kel-owi, and something, "of
course," with him also. This was truly very disinterested ad
vice ; for, if any thing had happened to us, they would, of course,
have become our heirs. In the evening we had again three
guests, not, however, the same as before, but some of their com
panions, who belonged to the Hadanara, one of the divisions of
the Azkar.
Tuesday, August 20th. At an early hour we started with an
uneasy feeling. With the first dawn the true believers had been
called together to prayer, and the bond whiqh united the Mo
hammedan members of the caravan with the Christian travelers
had been loosened in a very conspicuous manner. Then the
encampment broke up and we set out, not, however, as we had
been accustomed to go latterly, every little party starting off as
soon as they were ready, but all waiting tUl the whole caravan
had loaded their camels, when we began our march in close order,
first along the valley, then entering upon higher ground, some
times gravelly, at others rocky. The range to our right, here a
little more than a mile distant, bears different names correspond-
mg to the more prominent parts into which it is separated by
Vol. I.— Q

242 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
hollows or saddles, the last cone toward the south being called
Timazkaren, a name most probably connected with that of the
Azkar tribe, while another is named Tin-diirdurang. The Tarki
or Amoshagh is very expressive in names ; and whenever the
meaning of all these appellations shaU be brought to light, I am
sure we shall find many interesting significations. Though I
paid a good deal of attention to thefr language, the Tarkiyeh or
Temashight, I had not leisure enough to become master, of the
more difficult and obsolete terms ; and, of course, very few even
among themselves can at present tell the exact meaning of a
name derived from ancient times.
At length we had left behind us that remarkable ridge, and
entering another shallow valley fuU of young herbage, followed
its windings, the whole presenting a very irregular structure,
when suddenly four men were seen ahead of us on an eminence,
and instantly a troop of lightly-armed people, among them three
archers, were dispatched, as it seemed, in order to reconnoitres
marching in regular order straight for the eminence.
Being in the first line of our caravan, and not feeling so sure
on the camel as on foot, I dismounted, and marched forward,,
leading my meheri by the nose-cord, and with my eyes fixed
upon the scene before us. But how much was I surprised when
I saw two of the four unknown individuals executing a wild sort
of armed dance together with the Kel-owi, while the others were
sitting quietly on the ground. Much perplexed, I continued to
move slowly on, when two of the men who had danced sudden
ly rushed upon me, and, grasping the rope of my camel, asked
for tribute. Quite unprepared for such a scene under such cir
cumstances, I grasped my pistol, when, just at the right time, I
learned the reason and character of this curious proceeding.
The little eminence on the top of which we had observed the
people, and at the foot of which the armed dance was perform6
ed, is an important locality in the modern history of the coun
try which we had reached ; for here it was that when the Kel-
owi (at that time an unmixed and pure Berber tribe, as it seems)
took possession of the country of Old Gober, with its capital,
Tin-shaman, a compromise or covenant was entered into between

THE SLAVES' DANCE. 243
•
the red conquerors and the black natives that the latter should
not be destroyed, and that the principal chief of the Kel-owi
should only be allowed to marry a black woman. And, as a
memorial of this transaction, the custom has been preserved,
that when caravans pass the spot where the covenant was en
tered into, near the little rock Maket-n-ikelan,* " the slaves"
shaU be merry and be authorized to levy upon their masters a
small tribute. The black man who stopped me was the "serki-
n-bai (the principal or chief of the slaves).
These poor merry creatures, while the caravan was proceed
ing on its march, executed another dance ; and the whole would
have been an incident of the utmost interest if our minds and
those of all the well-disposed members of the caravan had not
been greatly oppressed and vexed with sad forebodings of mis
hap. The fear was so great that the amiable and sociable Sli-
man (one of the Tinylkum, who at a later period manifested his
sympathy with us in our misfortunes) begged me most urgently
to keep more in the middle of the caravan, as he was afraid that
one of those ruffians might suddenly rush upon me and pierce
me with his spear.
The soil hereabouts consisted entirely of bare gravel ; but
farther on it became more uneven, and broken by granite rocks,
in the cavities among which our people found some rain-water.
The tract on our right was caUed Tisgawade, while the heights
on our left bore the name Tin-ebbeke. I here rode a while by
the side of E'meli, a Tarki of the tribe of the Azkar, a gentle
man both in his dress and manners, who never descended from
the back of his camel. Although he appeared not to be very
hostile to the robbers on our track, and was certainly aware of
their intention, I liked him on account of his distinguished man
ners, and, under more favorable circumstances, should have been
able to obtain a great deal of information from him. But there
* I regret that I neglected to inquire what was the original Gober name of
this place ; for, while there can not be any doubt that it received its present
name, Maket-n-ikelan, from this transaction, it is very -probable that it was a
place of ancient pagan worship, and, as such, had a name of its own. It is very
I significant that the neighboring plain is emphatically called "the plain of Air,"
in the Arabic form, " sh'abet el Ahfr."

244 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
was with him a rather disagreeable and malicious fellow named
Mohammed (or, as the Tawarek pronounce it, Mokhammed),
from Yanet or Janet, who, in the course of the difficulties which
befell us, did us a great deal of mischief, and was fully disposed
to do us much more.
The country, which in the mean time had become more open,
after a while became bordered ahead by elevations in the form
of a semicircle, while we began to ascend. The weather had
been extremely sultry and close the whole day ; and at last,
about three o'clock in the afternoon, the storm broke out, but
with less violence than on the day before our arrival at Asiu.
We encamped at length on an open gravelly plain, surround
ed by ridges of rocks, without pitching our tents ; for our un-
wished-for guests had, in the face of the Tinylkum, openly de
clared that their design was to kill us, but that they wanted first
to get more assistance. Notwithstanding this, Mr. Richardson
even to-night was obhged to feed these ruffians — such is the
weakness of a caravan; although, in our case, the difference of re
ligion and consequent want of unity could not but greatly con
tribute to paralyze its strength. I here heard that some of the
party were Imghad from Tadomat.
Under such circumstances, and in such a state of feeling, it
was impossible to enjoy the sport and frolics of the slaves (that
is, of the domestic slaves) of the Kel-owi, who, with wild ges
tures and cries,, were running about the encampment to exact
from aU the free individuals of the caravan their little Maket-n-
ikelan tribute, receiving from one a small quantity of dates, from
another a piece of muslin or a knife, from another a shirt. Ev
ery body was obliged to give something, however small. Not
withstanding our long day's march, Overweg and I found it nec
essary to be on the watch the whole night.
Wednesday, August 21st. Starting at an early hour, we as
cended very rugged ground, the rocky ridges on both sides often
meeting together and forming irregular defiles. After a march
of five miles and a half we reached the highest elevation, and ob
tained a view over the whole district, which, being sprinkled as
it were with small granitic mounds, had a very desolate appear-

THE VALLEY OF JI'NNLNAU. 245
ance; but in the distance to our left an interesting mountain
group was to be seen, of which the accompanying sketch wiU
give some idea.

Having crossed several small vaUeys, we reached, a little be
fore ten o'clock, one of considerable breadth, richly overgrown
with herbage, and exhibiting evident traces of a violent torrent
which had swept over it the day before, while with us but Httle
rain had fallen. It is caUed Jinninau, and improved as we ad
vanced, our path sometimes keeping along it, sometimes reced
ing to a Httle distance ; in some places the growth of the trees,
principally the Balanites or aborak, was indeed splendid and
luxuriant. Unfortunately, we had not sufficient leisure and
mental ease to coUect aU the information which, under more fa
vorable circumstances, would have been within our reach. Thus
I learned that magnetic ironstone was found in the mountains
to our left. After noon the valley divided into three branches,
the easternmost of which is the finest and richest in vegetation,
while the western one, called Tiytit, has likewise a fine supply
of trees and herbage ; we took the middle one, and a little far
ther on, where it grew narrower, encamped.
It was a very pretty and picturesque camping-ground. At
the foot of our tents was a rocky bed of a deep and winding tor
rent bordered by most luxuriant talha- and aborak-trees {Bala
nites jEgyptiacd), and forming a small pond where the water,
mshing down from the rocks behind, had collected ; the fresh
green of the trees, enlivened by recent rains, formed a beautiful
contrast with the dark-yellowish color of the rocks behind.
Notwithstanding our perilous situation, I could not help stray
ing about, and found, on the blocks over the tebki or pond, some
coarse rock-sculptures representing oxen, asses, and a very taU

246 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
animal, which, according to the Kel-owi, was intended to repre
sent the giraffe.
WhUe I was enjoying the scenery of the place, Didi stepped
suddenly behind me, and tried to throw me down, but not suc
ceeding, laid his hands from behind upon the pistols which I
wore in my belt, trying, by way of experiment, whether I was
able to use them notwithstanding his grasp ; but, turning sharp
ly round, I freed myself from his hold, and told him that no ef
feminate person like himself should take me. He was a cun
ning and insidious fellow, and I trusted him the least of our
Kel-owi friends. A'nnur warned us that the freebooters intend
ed to carry off the camels that we ourselves were riding in the
night, and it was fortunate that we had provided for the emer
gency, and were able to fasten them to strong-iron rings.
WhUe keeping the first watch during the night, I was en
abled by the splendid moonHght to address a few lines in pencil
to my friends at home.
Thursday, August 22d. The Kel-owi having had some diffi
culty in finding their camels, we did not move at an early hour.
To our great astonishment, we crossed the rocky bed of the tor
rent, and entered an irregular defile, where, a Httle farther on, we
passed another pond of rain-water. When at length we emerged
from the rocks, we reached a very high level, whence we had(a
clear prospect over the country before us. Four considerable
ranges of mountains were clearly distinguishable in the distance,
forming an ensemble of which the accompanying sketch will give

an idea. We then entered valleys clothed with a fine fresh ver
dure sprinkled with flowers, and with a luxuriant vegetation
such as we had not seen before. The senna-plant {Cassia sen-

PLEASANT VALLEY OF GET3I. 247
na) appeared in tolerable quantity. Mountains and peaks were
seen all around in a great variety of forms ; and at twenty
minutes past nine we had a larger mountain mass on one side,
from which a dry water-course, marked by a broad Hne of herb
age, issued and crossed our route. ,
Having here allowed our camels a little feeding, we entered
upon gravelly soil with projecting blocks of granite, and then
went on ascending through a succession of small plains and val
leys till we reached Erazar-n-Gebi, among the splendid vegeta
tion of which we first observed the abisga, or Oapparis sodata,
caUed siwak or lirak by the Arabs — an important bush, the cur
rant-like fruit of which is not only eaten fresh, but also dried
and laid up in store, whUe the root affords that exceUent rem
edy for the teeth which the Mohammedans, in imitation of their
Prophet, use to a great extent. The root, moreover, at least
on the banks of the Tsad, by the process of burning, affords a
substitute for salt. It is the most characteristic bush or tree
of the whole region of transition between the desert and the fer
tile regions of Central Africa, between the twentieth and the fif
teenth degree of northern latitude ; and in the course of my
travels I saw it nowhere of such size as on the northern bank
of the Isa or Niger, between Timbuktu and Gagho, the whole
ground which this once splendid and rich capital of the Songhay
empire occupied being at present covered and marked out by
this celebrated bush: As for the camels, they like very well to
feed for a short time upon its fresh leaves, if they have some
other herb to mix with it ; but, eaten alone, it soon becomes too
bitter for them. In this valley the Httle berries were not yet
ripe, but further on they were ripening, and afforded a slight
but refreshing addition to our food.
Leaving the pleasant valley of Gebi by a small opening bor
dered with large blocks of granite, while peaks of considerable
elevation were seen towering over the nearer cliffs, we entered
another large vaUey called Taghajit,* but not quite so rich in
vegetation, and encamped here in an open space a little after
noon. The valley is important as being the first in the frontier
* This name, too, is pronounced Tarhajit.

248 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
region of Air or Asben where there is a fixed settlement— ,i
small viUage of leathern tents, inhabited by people of the tribe
of Fade-ang, who preserve a certain independence of the Kel-
owi, while they acknowledge the supremacy of the Sultan of
A'gades, a state of things of which I shall have occasion to say
more in another place.

CHAPTER XIII.
INHABITED BUT DANGEROUS FEONTIEE REGION.
The sensations of our guides and camel-drivers had been un
easy from the very moment of our encamping ; and Mr. Eich-
ardson, at the suggestion of A'nnur, had on the preceding day
sent E'meli and Mokhammed in advance, in order to bring to
us the chief of Fade-ang. This person was represented to us
as a man of great authority in this lawless country, and able to
protect us against freebooting parties, which our guests of the
other day, who had gone on in advance, were sure to collect
against us. Bat Mokhammed, as I have observed above, was
a great rascal himself, who would do all in his power to increase
our difficulties, in order to profit by the confusion. The chief
was accordingly reported as being absent, and a man who was
said to be his brother was to take his place. This person made
his appearance, accompanied by some people from the village;
but it became immediately apparent that he had no authority
whatever, and one of the Imghad of Tadomat, who had stuck to
us for the last two days, in order to show us what respect he
had for this man, struck him repeatedly with his spear upon the
shoulder. Among the companions of our new protector was a
Taleb of the name of Buheda, distinguished by his talkative
ness and a certain degree of arrogance, who made himself ridic
ulous by trying to convince us of his immense learning. What
an enormous difference there was between these mean-looking
and degraded half-castes and our martial pursuers, who stood

CHARACTER OF THE BORDERERS. 249
close by ! Though I knew the latter could and would do us
much more harm than the former, I liked them much better.
Overweg and I had sat down in the shade of a talha-tree at
a little distance from our tent, and had soon a whole circle of
visitors around us, who in the beginning behaved with some
modesty and discretion, but gradually became rather trouble
some. I gave them some small presents, such as scissors,
knives, mirrors, and needles, with which they expressed them
selves well pleased. Presently came also several women, one
with the characteristic features called in Temashight " tebuUo-
den," which may be translated by the words of Leo, " le parti
di dietro pienissime e grasse," and another younger one mount
ed upon a donkey.
The whole character of these people appeared very degraded.
They were totaUy devoid of the noble and manly appearance
which the most careless observer can not fail to admire even in
a common Tarki freebooter ; and the relation between the sexes
appeared in a worse light than one would expect in such a sit
uation as this. However, we have ample testimony in ancient-
Arabian writers that licentious manners have always prevailed
among the Berber tribes on the frontier of the desert ; and we
found the same habits existing among the tribe of the Tagama,
while not only A'gades, but even the little village of Tintellust,
was not without its courtesans. This is a very disheartening
phenomenon to observe in so smaU a community, and in a lo
cality where nature would seem peculiarly favorable to purity
and simplicity of manners. The names of some of these Tagha-
jit beauties — Telittifok, Tatinata, and Temetile — are interesting
for the character of the language.
We were anxious to buy some of the famous Air cheese, for
which we had been longing the whole way over the dreary des
ert, and had kept up our spirits with the prospect of soon in
dulging in this luxury; but we were not able to procure a sin
gle one, and our endeavors to buy a sheep or a goat were equaUy
fruitless. Instead of the plenty which we had been led to ex
pect in this country, we found nothing but misery. But I was
rather surprised to find here a very fine and strong race of asses.

250 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
We were tolerably composed, and reclining at our ease (though
our weapons were always at hand), when we were a little alarm
ed by a demand of six riyals for the use of the pond in Jinni-
nau. Our amiable but unenergetic friend A'nnur seconded the
demand, by way of satisfying in some way the intruders upon
our caravan. These claims were scarcely settled when a dread
ful alarm was raised by the report that a body of from fifty to
sixty Mehara were about to attack us.
Though no good authority could be named for this intelli-
'gence, the whole caravan was carried away by excitement, and
aU called out for powder and shot. Boro Serki-n-turawa once
more delivered eloquent speeches, and exhorted the people to be
courageous ; but many of the Tinylkum, very naturally, had a
great objection to come to open hostilities with the Tawarek,
which might end in their being unable to travel any longer along
this route.
In this moment of extreme excitement Khweldi arrived, the
chief merchant of Murzuk, whom we had not expected to see,
though we knew that he was on his way from Sudan to the
north. We were in a situation wherein he was able to render
us the most material service, both by his influence upon the in
dividuals of whom our caravan was composed, and by his knowlw
edge of the country whose frontier territories we had just en
tered. But unfortunately, though a very experienced merchant,
he was not a practical, sharp-sighted man ; and instead of giv
ing us clear information as to the probable amount of truth in
the reports, and what sort of difficulties we might really have to
encounter, and how, by paying a sort of passage-money to the
chiefs, we might get over them, he denied in private the exist
ence of any danger at all, while openly he went round the whole
caravan extolling our importance as a mission sent by a power
ful government, and encouraging the people to defend us if we
should be in danger. In consequence of his exhortations the
Tinylkum took courage, but had the imprudence and absurdity
to supply also the three intruders with powder and shot, who,
though protesting to be now our most sincere friends, of course
made no other use of the present than to supply their band with

ORDER OF BATTLE. 251
this material, which alone gave us a degree of superiority, and
constituted our security.
Any one accustomed to look closely at things could not be at
all satisfied with the spirit of our caravan, notwithstanding its
noise and waste of powder, and with its entire want of union ;
but the scene which followed in the bright moonlight evening,
and lasted throughout the night, was animating and interesting
in the extreme. The whole caravan was drawn up in a line of
battle, the left wing being formed by ourselves and the detach
ment of the Kel-owi who had left their own camping-ground and
posted themselves in front of our tent, while the Tinylkum and
the Sfaksi formed the centre, and the rest of the Kel-owi, with
Boro, the right wing, leaning upon the cliffs, our exposed left
being defended by the four pieces of the boat. About ten
o'clock a smaU troop of Mehara* appeared, when a heavy fusil-
ade was kept up over their heads, and firing and shouting were
continued the whole night.
Our situation remained the same the whole of the following
day; and it became very tedious, as it prevented us from mak
ing excursions, and becoming acquainted with the features of the
new country which we had entered. Another alarm having
been raised in vain, the leaders of the expedition which was col
lected against us came out, with the promise that they would
not further molest the caravan if the Christians were given up
to them. This demand having been at once rejected, we were
left in tolerable tranquiUity for a while, as the freebooters now
saw that, in order to attain their object, which was plunder,
they should be obhged to bring really into the field the whole
force they had so long boasted of.
Khweldi paid us another visit in the afternoon ; and as he
wanted to make us believe that there was reaUy no danger in
this country, so he did not fail to represent the state of things
in Sudan as the most favorable we could have wished for. He
* In conformity with the usage of travelers, I call Mehara people mounted
upon mehara, or swift camels (in the singular form meheri). This expression
has nothing whatever to do with Meharebfn, a name of which I shall speak here
after.

252 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
also sought to sweeten over any remnant of anxiety which wc
might have by a dish of very delicious dates which he had re
ceived from his friend Haj Beshir in Iferwan, and which gave us
a favorable idea of what the country before us was able to pro
duce. Altogether Khweldi endeavored to be agreeable to every
body; and on a later occasion, in 1854, when I was for some
time without means, he behaved toward me in a very gentleman
like manner. In his company was a brother of our quiet and
faithful servant Mohammed from Gatron, who was now return
ing home with his earnings.
Not being able to refrain wholly from excursions, I undertook
in the afternoon to visit the watering-place situated up a little
lateral nook of the vaUey, adorned with very luxuriant talha-
trees, and winding in a half circle by S.E. to N.E. First, at
the distance of about a mile, I came to a hole where some of the
Tinylkum were scooping water ; and, ascending the rocky bed
of the occasional torrent, I found a small pond where the camels
were drinking ; but our faithful friend Musa, who was not at all
pleased with my having ventured so far, told me that the water
obtained here did not keep long, but that higher up good water
was to be found in the principal vaUey.
I had, from the beginning, attentively observed the character
and proceedings of Boro Serki-n-turawa, and feared nothing so
much as his intrigues ; and, at my urgent request, Mr. Eichard-
son to-night made him a satisfactory present as an acknowledg
ment of the courage which he had lately shown in defending our
cause. Of course, the present came rather late ; but it was bet
ter to give it now, in order to avert the consequences of his. in
trigues as much as possible, than not at aU. Had it been given
two months ago, it might have saved us an immense deal of dif
ficulty, danger, and heavy loss.
Saturday, August 24th. We left at length our camping-
ground in Taghajit, and soon passed Khweldi's encampment,
which was just about to break up.
Rocky ground, overtopped by higher mountain masses or by
detached peaks, and hollows overgrown with rich vegetation, and
preserving for a longer or shorter time, the regular form of val-

FORMIDABLE THREATS. 253
leys, succeed by turns, and constitute the predominant feature
uf the country of Asben. But, instead of the fresh green pasture
which had delighted and cheered us in some of the northern
valleys, the herbage in some of those which we passed to-day
was quite dry.
Early in the afternoon we encamped in the valley Imenan,*
a little outside the line of herbage and trees, on an open spot at
the southern foot of a low rocky eminence. The valley, over
grown as it was with large talha-trees and the oat-grass called
bu-rekkeba, of taU, luxuriant growth, was pleasant, and invited
us to repose. But before sunset our tranquUHty was greatly
disturbed by the appearance of five of our well-known maraud
ing companions mounted on camels, and leading six others.
They dismounted within less than a pistol-shot from our tents,
and with wild, ferocious laughter were discussing their projects
with the Azkar in our caravan.
I could scarcely suppress a laugh when several of the Tinyl
kum came and brought us the ironical assurance that there was
now perfect security, and that we might indulge in sound sleep.
Others came with the less agreeable but truer warning that we'
ought not to sleep that night. The greatest alarm and excite
ment soon spread through the caravan. Later in the evening,
while our benevolent guests were devouring their supper, Mo
hammed el Tunsi called me and Overweg aside, and informed us
that we were threatened with great danger indeed, these Hogar,
as he called them, having brought a letter from Nakhnukhen,
authorizing them to collect people in the territory of the Kel-
owi, and there to dispatch us in such a way that not even a trace
of us should be found, but not to touch us so long as we were
within the confines of Azkar.
I was convinced that this account, so far as it regarded Nakh
nukhen, was an absurd fiction of our persecutors, and I tried to
persuade our servant to this effect. When he returned from us
to the caravan a council of war was held, and a resolution pass
ed that, if a number of from twenty to thirty people came to at
tack us, they would undertake to defend us, but if we should be
The name has probably some connection with that of the tribe I'manang.

254 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
threatened by a more numerous host, they would try to make a
compromise by yielding up a part of our goods. In consequence
of this resolution, all possible warlike preparations were made
once more, and Boro delivered another speech ; but it seemed
rather irreconcilable with such a state of things that while we,
iis well as the Tinylkum, brought aU our camels close to our
tents at an early hour, the Kel-owi left theirs out the whole
night. Perhaps, being natives of the country, they did not ex
pect that the freebooters would seize their animals.
Be this as it may, great anxiety arose when, early in the
morning, it was found that the camels were gone ; and when day
broke, our guests of last night, who had stolen away before mid
night, were seen riding down from the rocky ridge on the south,
and, with a commanding air, calling the principal men of the car
avan to a council. Then followed the scenes which Mr.Bich-
ardson has so graphically described.
I will only mention that Boro Serki-n-turawa, sword in hand,
led us on with great energy. He called me to keep close' to
him ; and I think that now (when we had atoned for the neglect
with which he had been treated by us by assuring him that we
were convinced of his high position and influence in the coun
try) he had the honest intention to protect us. Of the Tinyl
kum only our faithful Miisa and the amiable young Sliman ad
hered to us, and, of the other people, the Tawati and Mohammed
e' Sfaksi, although the latter trembled with fear, and was as pale
as death ; Yusuf Mukni remained behind. Farreji, on this oc
casion, behaved with great courage, and bravely chaUenged the
enemy. What frightened the latter most were the bayonets on
our guns, as they saw that, after having received our fire, they
would not yet have done with us, but would still have a weapon
to encounter at least as formidable as their own spears.
As soon as the enemy had protested that he was only come
against us as Christians, all sympathy for us ceased in the car
avan. All expected that we would become Moslemin without
great difficulty ; and our servant Mohammed, when we rejected
this condition as an impossibility, immediately relapsed into his
ordinary impudence, laughing in our faces because, forsooth, we

THE COMPROMISE. 255
were so absurd as still to think of some other expedient. This
clever but spoUed youngster was a protege of the British con
sulate in Tunis.
At length aU seemed to be settled. The whole host of the
enemy, besides its rich booty, had been treated with an enor
mous quantity of mohamsa ; and we had repeatedly been as
sured that now we might be certain of reaching the chief A'n-
nur's residence without any further disturbance, when the Httle
A'nnur, a man of honest but mild character, came to beg us
most earnestly to be on our guard, lest behind the rocks and
ridges there might be some persons in ambush. At length we
left this inhospitable place ; but we were far from being at ease,
for it was clear that there was stUl a cloud on the horizon, which
might easily gather to another storm.
After a short march we encamped in a small valley without
pitching our tents. The Merabet who had accompanied and
sanctioned the expedition against us was now in our company,
and that was thought to be the best means of preventing any
further molestation. This man, as I made out afterward, was
no other than Ibrahim Agha-bature (the son of Haj Beshir, a
[well-known and influential person settled in Ferwan, or Ifer-
wan), who, in consequence of these proceedings, was afterward
punished severely by the Sultan of A'gades. With Agha-ba
ture himself I met accidentally at a later period, in 1853, near
Zinder, when he was greatly astonished to see me still alive,
notwithstanding aU the hardships I had gone through. Boro,
who passed the evening with him in reading the Kuran, treated
him hospitably — with Mr. Richardson's mohamsa.
Monday, August 26th. After a march of three miles and a
half, having ascended a little, we obtained a clear view of the
great mountain mass which, lying between Tidik on the north
and Tintagh-ode on the west, seems not to be marked with a
collective proper name, although it is very often called by the
people Mount Absen.* But I can not say whether this name,
* Absen and Asben are used indiscriminately, though a ba-Haushe or Hausn
man will always say Asben, ba-Asbenchi, Asbenawa, while the native half-caste^
will prefer the other form— -Absen, Absenawa.

256 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
which is the old Gober name for the whole country caUed by
the Berbers Air, belonged originally only to these mountains,
or whether it is now given to them merely on account of their
being the conspicuous elevation of the country so named to
people coming from the north ; for this, according to the unan
imous statement of the Kel-owi, is the frontier of Sudan, to
which neither Taghajit nor even Tidik belongs. The Tawarek,
it would seem, have no indigenous proper name for Sudan (prop
erly Beled e' sudan) or Negroland ; most of them call it Agus
(the south). Nevertheless, Tekrur seems to. be an ancient Lib
yan name for Negroland.
A remarkable peak, caUed Tengik or Timge, towers over this
mountain mass, being, according to the intelligent old chief
A'nnur (who ought to be well acquainted with his own coun
try), the most elevated point in the whole country of Air. Un
fortunately, our situation in the country was such that we could
not think of exploring this very interesting northern barrier,
which must be supposed to possess many beautiful glens and
valleys. But we were still at some distance from these picturesque
mountains, and had to cross a very rugged and dreary waste,
where, however, we caught sight of the first ostrich as yet seen
on our journey. We encamped at length in a shaUow valley
devoid of any interesting features.
During the night, while I was on the first watch, walking
round the encampment of the caravan, it struck me that at one
end of it, beyond the Kel-owi, a small party was separately en
camped. When I went there for the first time, all was quiet;
but a little after eleven o'clock (for in general, on such a jour
ney, every one lies down at an early hour), hearing a noise on
that side, I saw two armed Tawarek saddle their mehara and
make off in the gloom of night. From this circumstance I con
cluded that something was still going on against us ; but as it
appeared useless to make an alarm, I only took the precaution
to put Overweg, who succeeded me on the watch, upon his
guard. - §
Tuesday, August 21th. We started at a very early hour,

VALLEY OF TI'DIK. 257
but fortunately the moonlight was so clear and beautiful that I
was not interrupted for a moment in marking down aU the fea
tures of the country, at least along our route, for our situation
was now too precarious to aUow of our observing angles to fix
the exact position of mountains lying at some distance from us.
The road in general continued rugged for the first six miles,
and formed at times very difficult passes ; but, notwithstanding
these obstacles, the whole caravan kept as close together as pos
sible, and so frustrated the plans of our persecutors, who, as
we concluded from the appearance of several Mehara in the dis
tance, intended to attack us on the road if occasion offered.
There are two roads, the easternmost of which passes farther on
through a remarkable gorge in the mountains, which we had for
a long time ahead of us. Here, where we turned off with a
westerly deviation, beautiful white marble, but slightly weather
worn on the surface, appeared between the nodules of granite
and gneiss, while on our right we had a rocky ridge called Itsa,
the crest of which was indented in a most remarkable way.
Farther on, where for a whUe we entered on a gravelly soU, the
whole ground was covered with fresh footsteps of camels and
| men, and there was not the least doubt that another host was
gathering against us.
Mount KadammeUet, with its tapering double peak, at a great
er distance in the west, formed an interesting object, while the
country was graduaUy improving. While turning round the

lower offshoots of the large mountain mass which we had now
approached, we entered a rather narrow but very rich vaUey,
adorned with most luxuriant talha-trees completely inwrapped
and bound together by creepers, while the ground was richly
clothed with herbage. This is the valley of Tidik ; the viUage
Vol. I.—R

258 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of that name, which is situated in a recess of the mountains on
our left, remained invisible. It is said to consist of huts form
ed of a kind of long dry grass, and therefore makes some ap
proach to the fashion of Sudan ; these huts are called taghamt
or taramt by the Southern Imoshagh. But at present the vil
lage was desolate, all the inhabitants, the Kel-tidik (people' of
Tidik) having gone for a while to the fine valleys in the west,
which appear to be richer than those to the east.
Farther on we crossed the bed of a considerable torrent, the
valley terminating in a narrow passage, which, though consider
ed as the very entrance into the region of Sudan, led us once
more into a desolate rocky district, at times widening to dry
hoUows. Here Mount Kadammellet, of which only the double
peak had been previously visible, exhibited to us its ample

flanks. The country became so extremely rugged that we ad
vanced but slowly ; and having here received distinct informa
tion which fully confirmed our apprehension of another preda
tory expedition against us, we marched in order of battle.
Thus we reached a pond of rain-water in the narrow rugged
hollow Taroi,* where we filled our water-bags. We found here
several donkeys of a remarkably fine breed, belonging to the
men who had brought us the news.
The country beyond this place became more interesting, and
even picturesque at times, several fine glens descending one aft
er the other from the beautifully-indented mountains on our left,
which now rose into full view, as the offshoots had gradually
receded. * Mr. Richardson calls the pond Anamghur ; correctly, perhaps, though I did
not hear it so called. The name of the valley, however, is Taroi ; and, if I am
not mistaken, Anamaghur, or Anemaghera, means, in the Southern Berber dia
lect, in general, " a watering-place ;" for our halting-place near Taghajit was
also called by this name.

SAD DISAPPOINTMENT. 259
We were only about eight miles from Selufiet, where we
might expect to be tolerably safe ; and we had not the least
doubt that we were to sleep there, when suddenly, before noon,
our old Azkar madogu Awed el Kher turned off the road to the
right, and chose the camping-ground at the border of a broad
vaUey richly overgrown with herbage. As if moved by super
natural agency, -and in ominous silence, the whole caravan fol
lowed ; not a word was spoken.
It was then evident that we were to pass through another or
deal, which, according to aU appearance, would be of a more se
rious kind than that we had already undergone. How this plot
was laid is rather mysterious, and it can be explained only by
supposing that a diabolical conspiracy was entered into by the
various individuals of our caravan. Some certainly were in the
secret ; but A'nnur, not less certainly, was sincere in our inter
est, and wished us to get through safely. But the turbulent
state of the country did not allow this weak, unenergetic man to
attain his object. Black mail had been levied upon us by the
frontier tribes ; here was another strong party to be satisfied,
that of the Merabetin or Anislimen, who, enjoying great influ
ence in the country, were in a certain degree opposed to the
paramount authority of the old chief A'nnur in Tintellust ; and
this man, who alone had power to check the turbulent spirit of
these wfld and lawless tribes, was laid up with sickness. In
A'gades there was no sultan, and several parties still stood in
opposition to each other, while by the great expedition against
Welad SHman, aU the warlike passions of the people had been
awakened, and their cupidity and greediness for booty and rap
ine excited to the utmost pitch. AU these circumstances must
be borne in mind in order to form a right view of the manner
in which we were sacrificed.
The whole affair had a very solemn appearance from the be
ginning, and it was apparent that this time there were reaUy
other motives in view besides that of robbing us. Some of our
companions evidently thought that here, at such a distance from
our homes and our brethren in faith, we might yield to a more
serious attack upon our rehgion, and so far were sincerely in-

260

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

terested in the success of the proceeding ; but whether they had
any accurate idea of the fate that awaited us, whether we should
retain our property and be allowed to proceed, I can not say.
But it is probable that the fanatics thought little of our future
destiny ; and it is absurd to imagine that, if we had changed our
religion as we would a suit of clothes, we should have thereby
escaped absolute ruin.
Our people, who well knew what was going on, desired us to
pitch only a single tent for aU three of us, and not to leave it,
even though a great many people should collect about us. The
excitement and anxiety of our friend A'nnur had reached the
highest pitch, and Boro was writing letter after letter. Though
a great number of Merabetin had coUected at an early hour, and
a host of other people arrived before sunset, the storm did not
break out ; but as soon as all the people of our caravan, ar
ranged in a long line close to our tent, under the guidance of
the most respected of the Merabetin as Imam, had finished their
Mughreb prayers, the calm was at an end, and the scene which
followed was awful.
Our own people were so firmly convinced that, as we stoutly
refused to change our religion, though only for a day or two, we
should immediately suffer death, that our servant Mohammed,
as well as Mukni, requested us most urgently to testify, in
writing, that they were innocent of our blood. Mr. Richardson
himself was far from being sure that the sheikhs did not mean
exactly what they said. Our servants and the chiefs of the
caravan had left us with the plain declaration that nothing less
than certain death awaited us ; and we were sitting sflently in
the tent, with the inspiring consciousness of going to our fate in
a manner worthy alike of our rehgion and of the nation in whose
name we were traveling among these barbarous tribes, when
Mr. Richardson interrupted the silence which prevailed with
these words : " Let us talk a little. We must die ; what is the
use of sitting so mute ?" For some minutes death seemed real
ly to hover over our heads, but the awful moment passed by.
We had been discussing Mr. Richardson's last propositions for
an attempt to escape with our lives, when, as a forerunner of

THE PILLAGE. 261
the official messenger, the benevolent and kind-hearted SHman
rushed into our tent, and with the most sincere sympathy stam
mered out the few words, " You are not to die."
The amount of the spoU taken from us was regulated by the
sum which we had paid to our Kel-owi escort, the party con
cerned presuming that they had just the same demands upon
us as our companions. The principal, if not the only actors in
this affair were the Merabetin ; and A'nnur, the chief of Tin-
teUust, afterward stated to us that it was to them we had to at
tribute aU our losses and mishaps. There was also just at this
period a young sherif from Medina at Tin-tagh-ode, with whom
we afterward came into intimate relations, and who confessed to
us that he had contributed his part to excite the hatred of the
people against the Christian intruders. Experienced travelers
have very truly remarked that this sort of sherifs are at the bot
tom of every intrigue. To the honor of Boro Serki-n-turawa,
I have to state that he was ashamed of the whole affair, and
tried to protect us to the best of his power, although in the be
ginning he had certainly done aU that he could to bring us into
difficulties. It was one of the defects of the expedition that our merchan
dise, instead of comprising a few valuable things, was, for the
most part, composed of worthless bulky objects, and that it made
all the people beheve that we were carrying with us enormous
wealth, whUe the whole value of our things scarcely amounted
to two hundred pounds. We had, besides, about ten large iron
cases fined with dry biscuit, but which aU the ignorant people
beheved to be crammed with money. The consequence was,
that the next morning, when all the claims had at length been
settled, and we wanted to move on, there was still great danger
that the rabble, which had not yet dispersed, would fall upon
the rest of our luggage ; and we were greatly obliged to the
Sfaksi, who not only passed some of our luggage as his own,
but also dashed to pieces one of the iron cases, when, to the as
tonishment of the simple people, instead of heaps of dollars, a
dry and tasteless sort of bread came forth from the strong in-
closure.

262 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
MeanwhUe, the persecuted Christians had made off, accompa
nied by some of the Kel-owi, and at length the whole caravan
collected together. The valley was here very beautiful ; and
having crossed some smaUer hollows, we reached the fine valley
of Selufiet, rich in trees and bushes, but without herbage, while
at the distance of less than a mile on our left the high peak of
the Timge stood erect. Toward the west the valley forms a
deep gap behind a projecting mass of granite blocks ; and it was
here that I met again my old acquaintance from the S'aid and
Nubia, the dtim-tree or Oucifera Thebdica, here called gariba,
after the Hausa name goreba. From the Kel-owi I could not
learn the proper Berber name of this tree ;* but the Western
Imoshagh call it akof. Even the Oapparis sodata seems to
be called by the Berber conquerors of this country only by the
Hausa name abisga, while their western brethren call it teshak.
Besides the Oucifera, or fan-palm, there were here also a few
isolated specimens of the date-palm.
The village of Selufiet itself, consisting of sixty or seventy
grass huts of peculiar shape, lies on the southern side of a broad
vaUey running here from east to west, and richly overgrown
with gorebas, abisgas, and talha-trees, but without any grass,
for which the ground seems too elevated and stony. Our camp
ing-ground also was of this bare character, and not at all pleas
ing ; it was protected in the rear by large buttresses of rock.
We had not yet enjoyed much tranquiUity and security, and
we here felt its want the more keenly, as, our camel-drivers hav
ing been hired only as far as this place, we had henceforth to
take charge of all our things ourselves. A large mob of lawless
people came about us in the course of the night, howling like
hungry jackals, and we were obliged to assure them, by frequent
firing, that we were on the watch. We had been obliged to
leave our camels to the care of the Kel-owi ; but the freebooters
having succeeded in dispersing the camels in every direction,
our friends were unable in the evening to collect either their own
animals or ours, and in the night they were all driven away, as
* I think, however, that the more learned among them call' it tagait. The
palm-tree is called tashdait.

SELU'FIET. 263
we were told, by the Merabetin themselves, who so repeatedly
assured us of their protection.
In the letters which we sent to Europe during our next day's
halt in this place, by a caravan of Arabs and Kel-owi, the largest
part of which was already in advance, we were unable to give a
perfectly satisfactory account of our progress ; nevertheless, we
had made a great step in advance, and were justified in hoping
that we should be able to overcome whatever difficulties might
still await us, and the more so as we were now able to place
ourselves in direct communication with the chief of TinteUust,
from whom we might soon expect to receive an escort.
Thursday, August 29th. Some of the stolen camels having
been recovered, though fifteen were still wanting, we were ena
bled to move from this uncomfortable place the next day, leav
ing behind us, however, the boat and some other things, which
were valueless to any but ourselves.
Pleased as we were with our onward movement, we were
still more cheered when we observed in the fine valley, which
here seems to bear the name E'rasa, or rather E'razar,* some
small fields with a fresh green crop of negro millet — a delicious
sight to travelers from the desert, and the best assurance that
we had entered cultivable regions. The fields or gardens were
watered by means of a kind of khattara of very simple construc
tion — a simple pole with a longer cross pole, to which the buck
et is fastened. A little further on, the whole valley was clothed
with fine wide-spreading bushes of the abisga or Capparis, but
it soon narrowed, whUe we marched straight upon the high
pointed peak overtowering Tin-tagh-ode, which forms an inter
esting object. The valley of Selufiet seems to have no connec
tion with that of the latter place ; at least, the principal branch,
along which our route lay, was entirely separated from it by
rocky ground. Here a broad gap dividing the mountain mass
ahows a peep into the glens formed by the several ridges of
which it consists, and which seem to rise to greater elevation
as they recede. The slope is rather precipitous ; and the gen-
* "E'razar," properly " eghazar," means " the valley" in general ; but never
theless here it seems to be a proper name.

264 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

eral elevation of this mountain mass seems scarcely less than
3300 feet above the bottom of the vaUey, or about 5000 feet
above the level of the sea.
We soon descended again from the rocky ground into a hol
low plain richly clothed with vegetation, where, besides the abis-
ga, the tunfafia or Asclepias gigantea, which we had entirely
lost sight of since leaving E'geri, appeared in great abundance,
Here also was a new plant which we had not seen before — the
"allwot," with large succulent leaves and a pretty violet flow
er. The camels devoured it most eagerly, and in the whole dis
trict of Air preferred it to any other kind of food. It has a
great resemblance to the poisonous damankadda, which in Su
dan is often the cause of dangerous disease, and even of death,
to the camel.
After marching along this valley for two mUes, we encamped
on an open space encircled with the green spreading bushes of
the abisga, a little beyond Tin-tagh-ode, the village of the Me
rabetin or Anislimen,* which is spread in a long line over the
low offshoots of the mountain range, and contains about a hund
red light huts, almost aU of them being made of grass and the
leaves of the dum-palm, a few only being built of stones.
Small as this village is, it is of very great importance for the
intercourse between Central Africa and the northern region be
yond the desert ; for, under the authority of these learned and
devout men, commerce is carried on with a security which is
* " Anislim" is the term in the Temashight language equivalent to the Arabic
Merabet ; and though it evidently has the most intimate relation to the word
" selem" (Islam), meaning properly a, man professing Islam, this signification
has been entirely lost sight of. I was generally deemed and called by the West
ern Tawarek an Anislim, because I wrote and read.

THE ANTSLIMEN. 265
reaUy surprising if regard be had to the wild and predatory hab
its of the people around. As these AnisHmen belong to a tribe
of the Kel-owi, we may infer that their settlement here was con
temporaneous with the conquest of the country by the latter
tribe — a conclusion favored by the narrative of Ebn Batrita,
who does not appear to have found any settlements in this
quarter. The AnisHmen, however, though they style themselves " de
vout men," have not, therefore, relinquished all concern about
the things of this world, but, on the contrary, by their ambition,
intrigues, and warlike proceedings, exercise a great influence
upon the whole affairs of the country, and have placed them
selves, as I have already mentioned, in a sort of opposition to
the powerful chief of TinteUust. Recently, however, a great ca
lamity had befallen them, the Awelimmiden (the " Surka" of
Mungo Park, the dreaded enemies of the Kel-owi) having by a
sudden inroad carried away aU their camels ; and it may have
been partly the desire to make use of the opportunity afforded
them by the arrival of some unprotected infidels to repair
their losses in some measure, which made them deal so hostile-
ly with us.
As we encamped, the boys of the village hovered around us
in great numbers, and, while we kept a good look-out to prevent
their pilfering, we could not but admire their tall, weU-formed
figures and their light color — the best proof that this little plan
does not intermarry with the black race. They wore nothing
but a leathern apron, and their hair was shorn on the sides,
leaving a crest in the middle.
When we had made ourselves somewhat comfortable, we
were desirous of entering into some traffic with the people, in
order to replace our provisions, which were almost whoUy ex
hausted ; but we soon had reason to be convinced how errone
ous were the ideas which we had formed from reports as to the
cheapness of provisions in this country, and that we should have
very great difficulty in procuring even the little that was abso
lutely necessary. Of butter and cheese we were unable to ob
tain the smallest quantity, while only very small parcels of

266 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
dukhn, or gero (millet, or Pennisetum typho'ideum), were offer
ed to us, and greatly to our disadvantage, as the articles we had
to barter with, such as bleached and unbleached calico, razors,
and other things, were estimated at a very low rate. A com
mon razor brought us here ten zekka of mUlet, worth, according
to the estimate of the country, one third of a mithkal, equal to
333 kurdi, or about sixpence halfpenny. I learned from E'meli
that the Sakomaren, a tribe of Imoshagh possessing large flocks
of sheep and even much cattle, bring almost every year a con
siderable supply of butter to this country, a statement which
was soon confirmed by my own experience.
The man just mentioned, who had something extremely noble,
and prepossessing about him, was about to return to Ghat, and
I confided to him a letter for Europe. In all probability, this
is the letter which was afterward found in the desert, and was
brought by Nakhnukhen (the chief of the Azkar) himself to Mr.
Dickson, her majesty's agent in Ghadames, who, from its fate,'
drew some sinister conclusions as to my own.
Several other people having left us, we remained in tolerable
quiet and repose the whole day ; but it was reported that the
next day, during which we should be obliged to stay here in
order to wait for the restitution of our camels, there would be a
great concourse of Mehara to celebrate a marriage in the viUage;
but, fortunately, the immense quantity of rain which fell in the
whole of the neighborhood, and which, on the 1st of September,
changed our valley into the broad bed of a rapid river, placing
all our property in the utmost danger, prevented this design
from being executed, and, while it seemed to portend to us a
new misfortune, most probably saved us from a much greater
mischief. Having just escaped from the dangers arising from the fanat
icism and the rapacity of the people, it was a hard trial to have
to contend again against an element the power of which, in these
border regions of the desert, we had been far from appreciating
and acknowledging. We had no antecedents from which to
conclude the possibility that in this region a valley, more than
half a mile wide, might be turned, in twenty-four hours, into a

A DESERT TORRENT. 267
stream violent enough to carry away the heaviest things, not
excepting even a strong, tall animal like the camel ; and it was
with almost childish satisfaction that, in the afternoon of Sat
urday, we went to look at the stream, which was just beginning
to roll its floods along. It was then a most pleasant and re
freshing sight ; the next day it became a grand and awful pic
ture of destruction, which gave us no faint idea of a deluge.
To the description of the flood itself, as it is given by Mr. Rich
ardson, I shall not add any thing ; but I have to mention the
following circumstances, which seem not to have been placed in
their true light.
Half an hour after midday the waters began to subside, and
ceased to endanger our Httle island, which, attacked on all sides
by the destructive fury of an impetuous mountain torrent swol
len to the dimensions of a considerable river, was fast crumbling
to pieces, and scarcely afforded any longer space enough to hold
our party and our things. Suddenly, on the western shore, a
number of Mehara were seen, while, at the same time, the whole
population of Tin-tagh-ode, in full battle array, came from the
other side, and formed themselves in regular groups, partly round
our hiU, and partly opposite to the Tinylkum. While we look
ed with distrust on these preparations, most of our muskets hav
ing been wetted, the mischievous Mokhammed approached our
hill, and, addressing me with a very significant and malevolent
look, cried out, "Lots of people!" The previous afternoon,
when I had requested him, while squatting himself insolently
upon my carpet, to leave this only piece of comfort for my own
use, he threatened me in plain terms, and in the coolest manner,
that the following night I should lie on the bottom, of the wadi,
and he upon my carpet. Not put out by his malice, though I
was myself rather doubtful as to the friendly intentions of all
these people, I told him that the Mehara were our friends, sent
by the chief A'nnur as an escort to conduct us safely to Tin-
teUust. With a threatening gesture he told me I should be
sadly disappointed, and went away. Fortunately, it turned out
that the people mounted on camels were really A'nnur's escort ;
but, at the same time, a large band of robbers had collected, in

268 ' TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
order to make a last effort to take possession of our property
before we should obtain the protection of A'nnur, and only with
drew reluctantly when they saw that they should meet with a
strong opposition.
We were then justified in hoping that we had at length en
tered a harbor affording us a certain degree of security, and with
thankful and gladdened hearts we looked forward to our further
proceedings. Our present situation, however, was far from be
ing comfortable : almost all our things were wet ; our tents were
lying in the mud at the bottom of the stream ; and our comfort
able and strong, but heavy Tripolitan tent was so soaked with
water and earth that a camel could scarcely carry it. Leaving
at length our iU-chosen camping-ground, Overweg and I were
passing the principal torrent (which was stUl very rapid), when
the camels we rode, weakened by the dreadful situation they
had been in the whole day, were unable to keep their feet, and,
slipping on the muddy bottom, set us down in the midst of the
stream. Soaked and barefoot, having lost my shoes, I was glad
to reach in the dark the new encampment which had been chosen
On the elevated rocky ground a little beyond the border of the
valley. Our beds were in the most cheerless condition, and in
an unhealthy cHmate would certainly have been productive of
bad consequences. Air, however, in every respect may be call
ed the Switzerland of the desert.
Fortunately, the weather on the following morning cleared
up, and, although the sun came forth only now and then, a fresh
wind was very favorable for drying, and it was pleasant to see
one thing after another resume a comfortable appearance. The
whole encampment seemed to be one large drying-ground.
Having recovered a little from the uncomfortable state in
which we had passed the night, we went to pay a visit to the
principal men of our new escort, who had seated themselves in
a circle, spear in hand, with their leader Hamma (a son-in-law
of the chief A'nnur) in the midst of them. Entire strangers as
both parties were to each other, and after the many mishaps we
had gone through, and the many false reports which must have
reached these men about our character, the meeting could not

ARRIVAL OF THE ESCORT. 269
fail to be somewhat cool. We expressed to the leader our sin
cere acknowledgment of the service which the chief A'nnui- had
rendered us, and begged him to name us to such of his compan
ions as were related to the chief. On this occasion, Moham
med, the chiefs cousin, who afterward became a great friend of
mine, made himself remarkable by his pretensions and arrogance.
They were aU of them tolerably good-looking, but they were
not at all of the same make as the Azkar and the people living
near the border of Air. They were blacker, and not so tall,
and, instead of the austere and regular northern features, had a
rounder and more cheerful, though less handsome expression of
countenance. .Their dress, also, was more gay, several of them
wearing Hght blue instead of the melancholy-looking dark blue
tobes. At about ten o'clock we at length moved on, and chose the
western of the two roads, leading hence to Tin-teUust by way
of Fodet; the eastern one passes through Tago and Tani.
Leaving the large green valley of Tin-tagh-ode on our left, we
kept on more uneven ground, passing some smaller glens, till
| we reached the commencement of the fine broad valley Fodet,
fend encamped near the cliffs bordering its eastern side. Here
Mie water, rushing down from the rocks in a- sort of cascade, had
formed a pond, which, however, was not destined to remain
long. Tuesday, September 3d. We made a very interesting march
through a country marked with bold features, and showing it
self in more than one respect capable of being the abode of man.
Turning away from the eastern border, we kept more along the
middle of the vaUey tiU we reached the most picturesque spot,
where it divided into two branches, the eastern of which, bor
dered by several imposing mountain spurs, presented a very in
teresting perspective, of which the foUowing sketch, drawn as it
was on the back of my camel, will give only a faint idea.
The whole bottom of the vaUey, where, the day before yes
terday, a mighty torrent had been foaming along, was now glit
tering with fragments of minerals. We then passed the ruins
of some houses carried away by the floods, and met farther on

270

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

a little troop of asses laden with eneli.* Our whole caravan
was in good spirits ; and our escort, in order to give us a speci
men of their horsemanship, if I may so call it, got up a race,
which, as may be readily imagined, proved a very awkward af
fair. Two or three of the riders were thrown off, and the sport
soon came to an end. The swift camel is exceUent for trotting,
but it can never excel in a gallop.
In our ascent we had reached very considerable mountain
masses on our right, when some of our old companions, who had
come with us from Ghat, separated from us, in order to go to
their viUage Tungadu. Among these was A'kshi, a very mod
est and quiet man, who alone of all these people had never beg
ged from me even the merest trifle, though he gave me some in
formation, and I might have learned much more from him if I
had seen him more frequently. But I had the good fortune to
meet with him again at a later period.
* E'neli, \j\ — dukhn — is a word several times mentioned by the learned
traveler Ebn Batuta in his Travels, where it has not been understood by the
translators. See Journal Asiatique, 1843, serie iv., torn, i., p. 188, 191, 200. M
p. 194 he describes the favorite beverage dakno, made of this corn.

VALLEY OF AFI'S. 271
The country here became very mountainous, and the ascent
steep, tiU we reached a valley called by some of the Kel-owi
the upper course of the vaUey of Tin-tellust. Having reached
the crest of the elevation, we began to descend, first gradually
along smaller vaUeys, afterward more steeply into a deep ravine,
while in the distance toward the southwest, above the lower
hills, a ridge of considerable elevation became visible. Gradu
ally the ravine widened, and became clothed with fine herbage.
Here, to our great disappointment, the little A'nnur, Didi, Far
reji, and several of the Tinylkum (among them the intelligent
and active Ibrahim) left us in order to reach thefr respective resi
dences. Of course, A'nnur ought to have seen us safe to the chief's
residence ; but, being without energy, he allowed our new com
panions, with whom we had not yet been able to become ac
quainted, to extort from us what they could, as the Fade-ang
and the Anislimen had done before. Keeping along some small
er vaUeys, we reached, about noon, a considerable pond of rain
water, where I watered my thirsty camel. Almost all the smaU-
Ier vaUeys through which we passed incline toward the west.
Much against our wish, we encamped a little after three
o'clock P.M. in a widening of the valley Afis, near the south
ern cliffs (which had a remarkably shattered appearance), there
being a weU at some little distance. We had scarcely encamp
ed when a troublesome scene was enacted, in the attempt to
satisfy our escort, the men not being yet acquainted with us,
and making importunate demands. But there was more tur
moil and disturbance than real harm in it ; and though half of
the contents of a bale of mine were successfully carried off by
the turbulent Mohammed, and a piece of scarlet cloth was cut
into numberless small shreds in the most wanton manner, yet
there was not much to complain of, and it was satisfactory to
see Hamma (A'nnur's son-in-law, and the chief of the escort)
display the greatest energy in his endeavors to restore what was
forcibly taken.
Wednesday, September 4th. We were glad when day dawn
ed; but with it came very heavy rain, which had been por-

272 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
tended last night by thickly accumulated clouds and by light
ning. Rain early in the morning seems to be rather a rare
phenomenon, as weU in this country as aU over Central Afri
ca,* if it be not in continuation of the previous night's rain ;
and it was probably so on this occasion, rain having fallen dur
ing the whole night in the country around us.
Having waited tiU the rain seemed to have a little abated,
we started at seven o'clock, in order to reach the residence of
the powerful chief A'nnur, in whose hands now lay the whole
success of the expedition. Though all that we had heard about
him was calculated to inspire us with confidence in his person
al character, yet we could not but feel a considerable degree of
anxiety. Soon emerging from the valley of Afis, we ascended rocky
ground, over which we plodded, while the rain poured down
upon us with renewed violence, tiU we reached another valley,
and a little farther, on its northern side, the small village Sara-
ra, or Asarara, divided into two groups, between which we pass
ed. We then crossed low rocky ground intersected by many
smaU beds of torrents descending from the mountains on our
left, which rise to a considerable elevation. All these channels
incline toward the south, and are thickly clothed with bushes.
It was half past nine o'clock, the weather having now cleared
up, when we enterred the vaUey of TinteUust,f forming a broad
sandy channel, bare of herbage, and only lined with bushes
along its border. On the low rocky projections on its eastern
side lay a little viUage, scarcely discernible from the rocks
around ; it was the long and anxiously looked-for residence of
* In many parts of India just the contrary seems to occur.
t It will be well to say a few words about this name, as the way in which I
write it has been made the subject of criticism. Tin-tellust means "(the valley)
with or of the tellust;'' "tin" is the pronoun expressing possession, and exact
ly corresponds with the Western Arabic . U^ . It is of very frequent occurrence,
as well in names of localities as of tribes, and even of men, such as Tin-Yera-
tan, son of Wasembii, the celebrated King of Aiidaghost. "Tellust" is the fem
inine form of " ellus," the feminine Berber nouns having the peculiarity of not
only beginning with t, but often ending with it likewise. (Newman, in Zeit-
schrift fiir Kunde des Morgenlandes, 1845, vol. vi., p. 275.)

.V

;Y|S*PfSSf?

ARRIVAL AT TINTE'LLUST. 275
the chief E' Nur or A'nnur. Our servants saluted it with a
few rounds. Leaving the viUage on the eastern border of the
sandy bed, we went a little farther to the south, keeping close
to the low rocky projection on our right, at the foot of which
was the little tebki or water-pond, and encamped on a sand-
hiU rising in a recess of the rocky offshoots, and adorned at its
foot with the beautiful green and widely-spreading bushes of
the Capparis sodata, whUe behind was a charming little hollow
with luxuriant talha-trees. Over the lower rocky ground rose
Mount Tunan, whUe toward the south the majestic mountain-
group of Bunday closed the view. As for the prospect over
the valley toward the village, and the beautiful mountain mass*
beyond, it is represented in the annexed sketch, made at a later
period, and for the accuracy of which I can answer.
Altogether it was a most beautiful camping-ground, where in
ease and quiet we could establish our little residence, not troub
led every moment by the intrusion of the townspeople ; but it
was rather too retired a spot, and too far from our protector, be
ing at least eight hundred yards from the village, in a country
fcf lawless people, not yet accustomed to see among them men
Jof another creed, of another complexion, and of totally different
usages and manners.
This spot being once selected, the tents were soon pitched ;
and, in a short time, on the summit of the sand-hiU, there rose
the httle encampment of the English expedition, consisting of
four tents forming a sort of semicircle, opening toward the south,
the point to which aU our arduous efforts were directed — Mr.
Richardson's tent toward the west, Overweg's and mine adjoin
ing it toward the east, and each flanked by a smaUer tent for the
servants. Doubtless this sand-hiU wiU ever be memorable in
the annals of the Asbenawa as the "English HiU," or the "HiU
of the Christians." But, before I proceed to relate the incidents
of our dafly Hfe whUe we staid here, it will be weU to introduce
the reader to the country and the people with whom we have
come in contact.
* These mountains, which from this side seem to form a well-defined group,
have, as far as I know, no general name.

276 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

CHAPTER XIV.
ETHNOGRAPHICAL RELATIONS OF AlR.
The name Air, exactly as it is written and pronounced by the
natives at the present day, first occurs in the description of Leo,
which was written in 1526.* The country Kaher, mentioned
by the traveler Ebn Batutaf on his home-journey from Tekad-
da by way of the weUs of Asiu, is evidently somewhere here
abouts, but seems rather to denote the region a few days' jour
ney west from Tintellust, and to be identical with the "Ghir"
of Leo,| though this extended more to the S.W. The name
being written by the Arabs with an h (Ahir), most historical
geographers have erroneously concluded that this is the true in
digenous form of the name.§
Air, however, does not appear to be the original name of the
country, but seems to have been introduced by the Berber con-
* Leo Africanus, Descrizione dell' Africa, i., c. 6 : " E Air, diserto ancora esso,
ma nomato dalla bonta dell' aere." This derivation of the name is manifestly
apocryphal. Comp., l.vi., c. 55, 56.
t Ebn Batuta's Travels, ed. Lee, p. 45. Compare Journal Asiatique, 1843,
p. 237.
% Leo, l.vi., c. 55. Ebn Batiita counts seventy days' march from Tekadda to
Tawat, or rather Buda. Now we shall see that Tekadda is situated three days
southwest from A'gades, while, from what the traveler says about the place where
the road to Egypt separated from that to Tawat, it is evident that he went by
Asiu, or rather that the place just mentioned was identical with Asiu, Asiu,
then, forty days from Tawat, was thirty days from Tekadda; Kaher therefore,
being distant eighteen days from Asiu, was twelve days from Tekadda, and was
somewhere between the parallels of Selufiet and Tintellust, but rather, as we see
from the sterile character of the country through which he traveled, and from the
situation of Tekadda, in the more barren district to the west. About Tekadda I
shall have to speak further on.
§ The Tawarek, as well the Kel-owi as all the other tribes, constantly write
0 £' (Air) ; and the reason why the Arabs write „£ | is simply to avoid the ob-
scenity of y\ (veretrum).

MIXED POPULATION OF AIR. 277
querors, the former name being Asben or Absen, as it is still
caUed by the black and the mixed population. Asben was for
merly the country of the Goberawa, the most considerable and
noble portion of the Hausa nation, which does not seem to be
long to the pure Negro races, but to have originally had some
relationship with North Africa ; and from this point of view the
statement of Sultan BeUo can not be regarded as absurd, when,
in the historical work on the conquests of the Fulbe, "Infak el
misuri fi fat hah el Tekruri," he caUs the people of Gober
Copts,* though only one family is generally considered by the
learned men of the country as of foreign origin.
The capital of this kingdom of Asben, at least since the 16th
century, was Tin-shaman, at present a viUage a little to the west
of the road from Auderas to A'gades, and about twenty miles
from the latter place. The name is evidently a Berber one ;+
and the Berber influence is still more evident from the fact that
a portion, at least, of the population of the town were Masufa,
a weU-known Berber tribe who in former times were the chief
guides on the road from SejUmesa to Walata.f Be this as it
M»ay, several learned men, inhabitants of this place, are men-
Roned by the native historians of Negroland, which shows that
Pnere existed in it some degree of comparative civilization. In
the middle of the fourteenth century, not only Tekadda, but even
Kahir, was in the hands of the Berbers, as we see from Batuta's
narrative ; and this eminent traveler mentions a curious custom
, with regard to the Berber prince, whom he styles El Gergeri, or
; Tegergeri,§ which even at the present moment is in full opera-
iI * Denham and Clapperton's Travels, vol. ii., p. 162.
t I bave spoken about the word " tin" before. I have strong reason for sup-
, posing that the original name of the place was Ansaman.
; t EbnBatuta, Journal Asiatique, 1843, serie iv., vol. i., p. 188 ; Cooley, Negro-
: land, p. 17.
§ It seems to be the title of his kingdom, so that we may translate it rather
"the ruler of Kerker" or Gerger. See Cooley, p. 107, who first pointed out that
Kerker was not a mere clerical error for Kaiikau. But what this learned gentle-
, man says at p. 109 is based upon wrong information, there being no such name
as Birni-n-Gurgar in Hausa. The real name of the place is Goga. It is also
impossible that the name Gergeri can have any thing to do with the pagan tribe
Keiekere,

278 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
tion in this country, viz., that the succession went not to his
own sons, but to his sister's sons.* This remarkable fact is a
certain proof that it was not a pure Berber state, but rather a
Berber dominion ingrafted upon a Negro population, exactly as
was the case in his time in Walata. Leo, who first calls the
country by its present Berber name Air, states also expressly
that it was then occupied by Tawarek, "Targa populo ;"f and
we learn also from him that the ruler of A'gades (a town first
mentioned by him) was likewise a Berber ;| so that it might
seem as if the state of the country at that time was pretty nearly
the same as it is now ; but such was not the case.
The name of the Kel-owi is not mentioned either by Leo or
any other writer before the time of Horneman, who, before he set
out from Fezzan on his journey to Bornu, obtained some very
perspicuous information § about these people, as weU as about
their country A'sben. At that time, before the rise of the Fulbe
under their reformer (El Jihadi) Othman, the son of Fodiye, it
was a powerful kingdom, to which Gober was tributary. From
Horneman's expression it would seem that the Kel-owi had
conquered the country only at a comparatively recent date ;|| and
this agrees perfectly with the results of my inquiries, from which
I conclude that it took place about A.D. 1740. However, we
have seen that four centuries before that time the country was in
the hands of the Berbers.
It appears that the Kel-owi are traceable from the northwest,
and the nobler part of them belong to the once very powerful
and numerous tribe of the Auraghen, whence their dialect is
called Auraghiye even at the present day. Their name signifies
" the people settled in (the district or valley of) Owi ;" for "kel"
is exactly identical with the Arabic word ahel, and seems, be-
* Ebn Batiita, p. 237. t Leo, l.vi., c. 56.
X Ibid., i., c. 10, toward the end.
§ Horneman's Journal, 1802, p. 109, fl.
|| That was also what Major Rennell concluded from the traveler's expression
when he says, p. 181, " From recent conquest it would seem," &c. I think that
the Kel-owi may have formerly borne another name, andfeceived this name only
from a place where they were settled. I would not refer to the Cillaba men
tioned by Pliny, 1. v., t. 5. The name Kel-owi is properly a plural form.

THE KEX-OWI'. 279
sides, to be applied with especial propriety to indicate the set
tled in opposition to the nomadic tribes ; for, in general, the
characteristic mark of the Kel-owi and their kinsmen is that
they live in villages consisting of fixed and immovable huts, and
not in tents made of skins, like the other tribes, or in movable
huts made of mats, like the Tagama and many of the Imghad
of the AweHmmiden. With this prefix kel may be formed the
name of the inhabitants of any place or country : Ferwan, Kel-
ferwan ; Baghzen, Kel-baghzen ; AfeUe (the north), Kel-afeUe,
"the people of the north," whom the Arabs in Timbuktu caU
A'hel e' Sahel ; and no doubt a Targi, at least of the tribe of
the AweHmmiden or Kel-owi, would caU the inhabitants of Lon
don Kel-london or Kel-londra, just as he says Kel-ghadames,
Kel-tawat. But there is something indeterminate in the name Kel-owi,
which has both a narrower and a wider sense, as is frequently
the case with the names of those tribes which, having become
predominant, have grouped around them, and, to a certain ex
tent, even incorporated with themselves many other tribes which
(id not originaUy belong to them. In this wider sense the name
Cel-owi comprises a great many tribes, or, rather, sections, gen-
raUy named after their respective settlements.
I have already observed that the Berbers, in conquering this
country from the Negro, or I should rather say the sub-Libyan
race (the Leucsethiopes of the ancients), did not entirely destroy
the latter, but rather intermingled with them by intermarriage
with the females, thereby modifying the original type of their
race, and blending the severe and austere manners and the fine
figure of the Berber with the cheerful and playful character and
the darker color of the African. The way in which they set
tled in this country seems to have been very similar to that in
which the ancient Greeks settled in Lycia ; for the women ap
pear to have the superiority over the male sex in the country
of A'sben, at least to a certain extent ; so that, when a ba-A's-
benchi marries a woman of another vUlage, she does not leave
her dwelling-place to foUow her husband, but he must come to
her ia her own viUage. The same principle is shown in the

280 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
regulation that the chief of the Kel-owi must not marry a wom
an of the Targi blood, but can rear children only from black
women or female slaves.
With respect to the custom that the hereditary power does
not descend from the father to the son, but to the sister's son—
a custom well known to be very prevalent not only in many
parts of Negroland, but also in India, at least in Malabar— it
may be supposed to have belonged originally to the Berber race;
for the Azkar, who have preserved their original manners toler
ably pure, have the same custom ; but they also might have
adopted it from those tribes (now their subjects — the Imghad)
who conquered the country from the black natives. It may
therefore seem doubtful whether, in the mixed empires of Gha-
nata,* Melle,t and Walata,| this custom belonged to the black
natives, or was introduced by the Berbers. Be this as it may,
it is certain that the noble tribe of the AweHmmiden deem the
custom in question shameful, as exhibiting only the man's mis
trust in his wife's fidelity ; for such is certainly its foundation.
As for the male portion of the ancient population of A'sben,
I suppose it to have been for the most part exterminated, while
the rest was degraded into the state of domestic slavery, with
the distinct understanding that neither they nor their children
should ever be sold out of the country. The consequence of
this covenant has been an entire mixture§ between the Berber
* Aim 'Obeid Alia el Bekri el Kortobi, Notices et Extraits, vol. xii., p. 644.
t With regard to Melle, see what Leo says, 1. i., c. 10, fin., " E quello (re) che
fii di Melli h dell' origine del popolo di Zanaga.''
X Ebn Batiita, p. 234, ed. Lee. He says, " And the sister's son always succeed;
to property in preference to the son, a, custom I witnessed nowhere else except
among the infidel Hindoos of Malabar.'' But the traveler forgot that he had
soon to relate the same of the Gergeri dynasty (see above, p. 278) ; or, rather, the
learned man who was ordered to publish his journal did not correct the expres
sion, which, at the time when Ebn Batiita made his memorandum of his stay in
Walata, may have been quite true.
§ This circumstance explains a, curious fact in Mr. Koelle's Polyglotta Afri-
cana, a work of the greatest merit, but in which, on account of the immense
ground over which it extends, some errors must be expected. One of the most
unfortunate examples in this respect are his specimens of a language called Kan-
din (xii., C). Now the name Kandin is quite inadmissible in ethnography, bein,'!
a name given to the Imoshagh or Tawarek only by the Kamiri people, to say noth-

RULE OF SUCCESSION. 281
conquerors and the female part of the former population, chang
ing the original Berber character entirely, as well in manners
and language as in features and complexion. Indeed, the Hausa
language is as familiar to these people as their Auraghiye, al
though the men, when speaking among themselves, generally
make use of the latter. The consequence is that the Kel-owi
are regarded with a sort of contempt by the purer Berber tribes,
who call them slaves (ikelan). But there is another class of
people, not so numerous, indeed, in A'sben itself as in the dis
tricts bordering upon it ; these are the Buzawe, or Abogelite,
a mixed race, with generally more marked Berber features than
the Kel-owi, but of darker color and lower stature, while in man
ners they are generaUy very debased, having lost almost entirely
that noble carriage which distinguishes even the most lawless
vagabond of pure Targi blood. These people, who infest all the
regions southward and southeastward from A'sben, are the off
spring of Tawarek females with black people, and may belong-
either to the Hausa or to the Songhay race.
What I have here said sets forth the historical view of the
I state of things in this country, and is well known to all the en
lightened natives. The vulgar account of the origin of the Kel-
owi from the female slave of a Tinylkum who came to A'sben,
where she gave birth to a boy who was the progenitor of the
Kel-owi, is obviously nothing but a popular tale indicating, at
the utmost, only some sHght connection of this tribe with the
Tinylkum. Having thus preliminarily discussed the name of the tribe
and the way in which it settled in the country, I now proceed
ing of the very odd geographical blunder involved in the expression " Absen, u
town of Egades." But the specimens of the language which Mr. Koelle gives
under this head are a curious mixture of Targiye, Hausa, and even some Kanuri
terms ; and his informant, Abarshi (a very common name in A'sben), was most
probably a slave by origin, at least not a free man, even before he was enslaved
by the Kanuri. But these specimens are not uninteresting, giving a fair idea of
the state of things in the country, although any respectable native would be
ashamed to mix Hausa and Berber terms in this way. And, moreover, the latter,
as given here, are mostly corrupted from the very beginning, for " one" is not
diyen, but iyen, and d is only added in composition, as merdw d'fyen, meraw
d'esin— " eleven," " twelve," &c.

282

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

to give a list, as complete as possible, of aU the divisions or
titisi {sing, tausit) which compose the great community of the
Kel-owi. The most noble (that is to say, the most elevated, not by
purity of blood, but by authority and rank) of the subdivisions
of this tribe at the present time are the Irolangh, the Amanoka-
len or sultan family, to which belongs A'nnur, with no other
title than that of sheikh or elder (the original meaning of the
word) — " sofo" in Hausa, " amaghar" or " amghar" in Tem£-
shight. The superiority of this section seems to date only from
the time of the present chief's predecessor, the Kel-ferwan ap
pearing to have had the ascendency in earlier times. Though
the head of this family has no title but that of sheikh, he has
nevertheless far greater power than the amanokal or titular sul
tan of the Kel-owi, who resides in A'sodi, and who is at present
really nothing more than a prince in name. The next in au
thority to A'nnur is Haj 'Abdtiwa, the son of A'nnur's eldest
sister, and who resides in Tafidet.
The family or clan of the Irolangh, which, in the stricter sense
of the word, is called Kel-owi, is settled in ten or more villages
lying to the east and the southeast of Tintellust, the residence
of A'nnur, and has formed an alliance with two other influential
and powerful famUies, viz., the Kel-azaneres, or people of Aza-
neres, a village, as I shaU have occasion to explain farther on,
of great importance on account of its situation in connection
with the salt lakes near BUma, which constitute the wealth and
the vital principle of this community. On account of this alli
ance, the section of the Kel-azaneres affected by it is caUed Iro
langh wuen Kel-azaneres ; and to this section belongs the pow
erful chief Lusu, or, properly, El U'su, who is, in reality, the sec
ond man in the country on the score of influence.
On the other side, the Irolangh have formed alliance and re
lationship with the powerful and numerous tribe of the Ikazke-
zan or Ikeshkeshen, who seem likewise to have sprung from
the Auraghen ; and on this account the greater, or at least the
more influential part of the tribe, including the powerful chiet
Mghas, is sometimes called Irolangh wuen Ikazkezan, while,

SECTIONS OF THE KE'L-OWI. 283
with regard, to their dwelling-place Tamar, they bear the name
Kel-tamar. But this is only one portion of the Ikazkezan.
Another very numerous section of them is partly scattered about
Damerghu, partly settled in a place caUed Elakwas (or, as it is
generaUy pronounced, Alakkos), a place between Damerghu and
Mtinio, together with a mixed race called Kel-elakwas. The
Brizkezan of this latter section bear, in their beautiful manly
figure and fine complexion, much more evident traces of the
pure Berber blood than the Irolangh; but they lead a very law
less life, and harass the districts on the borders of Hausa and
Bornu with predatory incursions, especiaUy those settled in
Elakwas. There are three tribes whose political relations give them
greater importance, namely, the Kel-tafidet, the Kel-n-Neggaru,
and the Kel-fares. The first of these three, to whom belongs
the above-mentioned Haj 'Abduwa, live in Tafidet, a group of
three villages lying at the foot of a considerable mountain chain
thirty miles to the southeast of Tintellust, and at the distance
of only five good days' march from Bilma. The Kel-n-Negga-
Iru form an important famUy originaUy settled in Neggaru, a
district to the north of Selufiet ; but at present they live in
A'sodi and in the viUage Eghellal, and some of them lead a
nomadic life in the valleys of Tin-teggana and A'sada. On ac
count of the present sultan (who belongs to them) being called
Astafidet, they are now also named Aushi-n-Astafidet (the tribe
of Astafidet). The Kel-fares, to whom belongs the great m'al-
lem Azori, who, on account of his learning, is respected as a
prince in the whole country, live in Tin-teyyat, a village about
thirty-five mUes E.N.E. from TinteUust.
I now proceed to name the other sections of the Kel-owi in
geographical order from north to south.
The Fadaye, or E'fadaye, dwell in the district Fade-angh,
containing several vUlages, the principal of which is called Zur-
rika, inhabited by the Kel-zurrika. The E'fadaye, although
they maintain a sort of independence, are nevertheless regarded
as belonging to the community of the Kel-owi, while another
tribe, likewise caUed from the district Fade-angh, namely, the

284 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Kel-fadaye, are viewed in a different light, and will therefore he
mentioned farther on with respect to their political relation with
the Sultan of A'gades. The E'fadaye are renowned on account
of their warlike propensities, and to the wild inhabitants of these
districts the Fadaye is a model of a man — " halis."
The Kel-tedele, who were among the people who attacked the
mission, live in a place caUed Tedele, a little to the north of
Oinu-makaren. The Kel-tedek, or Kel-tidik, dwell in Tidik, the village I no
ticed on our journey as lying at the northern foot of the large
mountain chain which forms the beginning of A'sben and Sudan.
The Im-asrodangh.*
The Kel-ghazar, comprising the inhabitants of Selufiet and
those of Tintagh-ode, who are more generaUy named An
isHmen or Merabetin. The name is formed from eghazar,
" the valley," meaning the large valley of Selufiet and Tin
tagh-ode.
The Kel-elar, living in E'lar, three hours east from Selufiet,
in the mountain glens.
The Kel-gharus.
The E'ndefar.
The Tanutmolet.
The Abirken.
The Tesebet.
The Kel-telak.
The Azaiken.
The Kel-ulli, meaning "the people of the goats," or goat
herds. Another tribe of the same name among the Awe
Hmmiden I shall have frequent opportunity of mentioning
in the course of my travels as my chief protectors during
my stay in Timbuktu.
The Fedalala, dwelling, if I am not mistaken, in Fedekel.
The Kel-asarar, living in Sarara, the village we passed an
hour before reaching Tintellust.
The Im-eztikzal, a considerable family living in A'gwau.
* Im or em, in composition, is almost identical with kel, meaning "the people
of," " the inhabitants of."

SECTIONS OF THE KE'L-OWF. 285
The Kel-teget.
The Kel-enrizuk.
The Kel-takriza.
The Kel-aghellal.
The Kel-tadenak, living in Tadenak, about half a day's jour
ney east from Aghellal, and about eleven hours west from
Tintellust.
The Kel-wadigi, living in Wadigi, a large village about fif
teen miles west from Tintellust. This village, in conse
quence of erroneous native information, has been hitherto
placed near the Isa, or middle course of the Niger.
The Kel-teghermat, at present in the viUage Azauraiden,
E.N.E. from Tintellust. Of their number is the active
chief Haj Makhmud.
The Kel-erarar, in Erarar, a vUlage three hours from Tintel
lust.
The Kel-zeggedan, in Zeggedan, one day and a half from Tin
tellust.
The Kel-taghmart, in Taghmart, one day and a half north
from the latter.
The Kel-afarar, in A'farar, two hours east a little south from
Taghmart.
The Im-ekketen, Hving at present round Azatartar, but orig
inaUy settled in the neighborhood of A'gades.
The Kel-sadawat.
The Kel-tafist.
The Kel-agaten, living in A'gata, a vUlage at the foot of
Mount Belasega.
The Kel-baghzen, for the greatest part herdsmen or shep
herds, Hving scattered over and around Mount Baghzen.
These are the Kel-owi ; but there is another tribe, of the
Kel-geres, known by the same name, on account of their
having in former times occupied those seats.
The Kel-chemia, in Chemia.
The Ikadmawen, a numerous tribe living generaUy in four
viUages which lie at the southern foot of Mount Baghzen,
and are called respectively A'fasas (this being the largest

286 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of the four), Tagora, Tamanit, and Infereraf. But for a
great part of the year they lead rather a nomadic life.
The Kel-ajeru, in Ajerft, a viUage situate in the upper part
of the valley, in the lower part of which lies A'fasas. Here
resides another important personage of the name of Haj
Makhmiid.
The I'tegen.
The Kel-idakka, in Idakka, the native place of the mother
of Astafidet, the amanokal of the Kel-owi.
The Kel-tezarenet, in Tezarenet, a district rich in date-trees.
The Kel-tawar.
The Kel-tafasas (?). I am not quite certain with regard to
this name.
The Kel-taranet.
The Kel-atarar, living in the neighborhood of A'gades, and
having but an indifferent reputation.
The Kel-aril.
The Im-ersuten.
The Kel-azelalet.
The Kel-anuwisheren, in Timazgaren (?).
The Kel-taferaut.
The Kel-aghrimmat.
The Kel-awellat.
AU these tribes in a certain degree belong to the body of the
Kel-owi, whose nominal chief, if I may so caU him, is the ama
nokal residing in A'sodi ; but there is now another greater as
sociation or confederation, formed by the Kel-owi, the Kel-geres,
and the Itisan, and some other smaller tribes combined together;
and the head of this confederation is the great amanokal resid
ing in A'gades. This league, which at present hardly subsists
(the Kel-geres and Itisan having been driven by the Kel-owi
from their original settlements, and being opposed to them al
most constantly in open hostUity), was evidently in former times
very strong and close.
But, before speaking of the Kel-geres and their intimate
friends the Itisan, I shall mention those smaU tribes which,
though not regarded as belonging to the body of the Kel-owi,

SECTIONS OF THE KEX-OWI'. 287
and placed under the special and direct supremacy or govern
ment of the Sultan of A'gades, are nevertheless more intimately
related to them than the other great tribes. These are, besides
the E'm-egedesen,* or the inhabitants of A'gades or A'gadez,
of whom I shaU speak in the account of my journey to that in
teresting place, the three tribes of the Kel-fadaye, the Kel-fer-
wan, and the Izeraren.
As for the Kel-fadaye, they are the original and real inhab
itants of the district Fade-angh, which lies round Taghajit,
while the E'fadaye, who have been called after the same dis
trict, are rather a mixture of vagabonds flocking here from dif
ferent quarters, and principaUy from that of the Azkar. But
the Kel-fadaye, who, as well as their neighbors the E'fadaye,
took part in the ghazzia against the expedition on the frontiers
of Air, are a very turbulent set of people, being regarded in this
light by the natives themselves, as appears from the letter of
the Sultan of A'gades to the chiefs A'nnur and Lusu, of which
I brought back a copy, wherein they are caUed Meharebin,f or
freebooters. Nevertheless, they are of pure and noble Berber
(lood, and renowned for their valor ; and I was greatly astonish-
* This name clearly shows that the final consonant of the name of the great
lown is not distinctly a . (z), though the Arabs generally write it so. In fact,
as I shall have to state farther on, it was originally sh. From E'm-egedesen is
formed E'm-egedesiye, " the language of the people of A'gades."
f Mehareoi — j il~_- — though not to be found in our dictionaries, is a very
common word with the Mohammedans all over Central Africa, and is regularly
formed from "hareb."j t.^.. quite in the same way as Mehares, the common
name given in Morocco to a guard or escort, from " hares." The Emir Ham-
edu of Hamd-Allahi did me the honor to call me by this name, on account of
the resistance I made to his attempt to seize me and my property during my stay
in Timbuktu ; and I do not doubt that the following passage in one of the angry
and learned letters which he wrote to my protector, the Sheikh El Bakay, will
have some interest for such of my readers as understand Arabic :
\y»ti j \f~\ (J \j c&j j \cjj &±£ Lop- j \f~
But his sacrilegious wishes were not fulfilled.

288 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ed to learn afterward from my noble and intimate friend and pro
tector, the Sheikh Sidi Ahmed el Bakay, that he had married
one of their daughters, and had long resided among them. Even
from the letter of the Sultan of A'gades it appears that they
have some relations with the AweHmmiden. The name of then-
chief is Shurwa.
The Kel-ferwan, though they are called after the fine and fer
tile place I-ferwan, in one of the valleys to the east of Tinti-
ghode, where a good deal of millet is sown, and where there are
plenty of date-trees, do not all reside there at present, a numer
ous portion of them having settled in the neighborhood of A'ga
des, whence they make continual marauding expeditions, or
"egehen," upon the Timbuktu road, and against the AweHm
miden. Nevertheless, the Kel-ferwan, as the kinsmen of the
Auraghen, and as the Amanokalen (that is to say, the clan to
which, before the different tribes came to the decision of fetch
ing their sultan from Sokoto, the family of the sultan belonged),
are of nobler and purer blood than any of the rest. As an
evidence of their former nobility, the custom stdl remains, that,
when the Sultan of A'gades leaves the town for any length of
time, his deputy or lieutenant in the place is the chief of the
Kel-ferwan. The third tribe of those who are under the direct authority
of the Sultan of A'gades, viz., the Izeraren, Hve between A'ga
des and Damerghu. But I did not come into contact with them.
The Kel-geres and Itisan seem to have been originally situ
ated in the fertile and partiaUy-beautiful districts round the
Baghzen, or (as these southern tribes pronounce the name in
their dialect) Maghzem, where, on our journey toward Damerghii,
we found the well-built stone houses in which they had former
ly dwelt.
On being driven out of their original seats by the Kel-owi,
about twenty-five or thirty years ago, they settled toward tho
west and southwest of A'gades, in a territory which was prob
ably given them by the AweHmmiden, with an intention hostile
to the Kel-owi. From that time they have been alternately in
bloody feud or on amicable terms with the K6l-owi ; but a san-

THE ITI'SAN AND KE'L-GERES. 289
guinary war has recently (in 1854) broken out again between
these tribes, which seems to have consumed the very sources of
their strength, and cost the lives of many of my friends, and
among them that of Hamma, the son-in-law of A'nnur. The
principal dwelling-place of the Kel-geres is A'rar, whUe their
chief market-place is said to be Jobeli, on the road from A'gades
to Sokoto.
The Kel-geres and the Itisan together are equal in effective
strength to the Kel-owi, though they are not so numerous, the
latter being certainly able to coUect a force of at least ten thou
sand armed men all mounted, besides their slaves, whUe the for
mer are scarcely able to furnish half as many. But the Kel-
geres and Itisan have the advantage of greater unity, while the
interests of the various tribes of the Kel-owi are continually
clashing, and very rarely aUow the whole body to collect to
gether, though exceptions occur, as in the expedition against
the Welad SHman, when they drove away all the camels (ac
cording to report, not less than fifty thousand), and took pos
session of the salt lakes near BUma.
» Moreover, the Kel-geres and Itisan, having preserved their
erber character in a purer state, are much more warlike.
heir force consists, for the greater part, of well-mounted cav
alry, while the Kel-owi, with the exception of the Ikazkezan,
can muster but few horses, and of course the advantage of the
horseman over the camel-driver is very great, either in open or
close fight. The Kel-geres have repeatedly fought with success
even against the AweHmmiden, by whom they are called Arau-
wen. They have even killed their last famous chief E' Nabega.
The Kel-geres came under the notice of Clapperton on account
of the unfortunate expedition which they undertook against the
territories of the Fulbe in the year 1823, though it seems that
the expedition consisted chiefly of Tagama, and that they were
the principal sufferers in that wholesale destruction by Sultan
BeUo. Their arms in general are the same as those of the Kel-owi,
; even the men on horseback bearing (besides the spear, the
sword, and the dagger) the immense shield of antelope-hide,
Vol. I.— T

290 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
with which they very expertly protect themselves and their
horses ; but some of them use bows and arrows even on horse
back, like many of the Fulbe, in the same way as the ancient
Assyrians. A few only have muskets, and those few
them rather for show than for actual use.
The Itisan* (who seem to be the nobler tribe of the two, and,
as far as I was able to judge, are a very fine race of men, with
expressive, sharply-cut features, and a very light complexion)
have a chief or amanokal of their own, whose position seems to
resemble closely that of the Sultan of the Kel-owi, while the
real influence and authority rests with the war-chiefs, tambelis
or tamberis, the most powerful among whom were, in 1853,
Wanagoda, who resides in Tswaji near Gober, on the side of
the Kel-geres, and Maiwa or M'oawiya, in Gulluntsuna, on the
side of the Itisan. The name of the present amanokal is Gham-
belu. I now proceed to enumerate the subdivisions of the two
tribes, as far as I was able to learn them, and first those of the
Itisan : the Kel-tagay, the Telamse, the Mafinet or Mafidef, the
Tesidderak, the Kel-maghzem, the A'laren, the Kel-innik, the
Kel-duga, the Kel-uye, and the Kel-aghelel. Probably also
the Ijdanarnen,t or Jedanarnen, and the Kel-manen belong to
them. The following are the principal subdivisions of the Kel-
geres : the Kel-teghzeren or Tadmukkeren, the Kel-ungwar, the
Kel-garet, the Kel-n-sabtafan, or Kel-n-sattafan,:J the Kel-tadeni,
* It has been concluded (though erroneously, as the following will show), from
the circumstance of the joint salt-caravan of the Itisan and Kel-geres, in the let
ter of the Sultan of the A'gades, being called only after the former tribe, that
these two tribes were identical. The Itisan, as "Benii Itisan," are mentioned
by Ebn Khaldiin among the clans of the Sanhaja, vol. i., p. 195. Arab- *• > vo1,
ii., p. 3, trad, par le Baron de Slane.
t These, in the form of Ajdaranin, are mentioned by Bello in his geographical
introduction to his historical work (Clapperton's Travels, Appendix If., p. 160),
among the first Berber tribes who came from Aujila and took Ahir (Air) '">m
the Sudan inhabitants of Gober.
X This is the tribe of which Bello speaks (Clapperton's Travels, ii., p- 160)
when he says " they appointed a person of tbe family of Ansatfen." But his
knowledge of the Tawarek was very insufficient ; and the chapter to winch that
passage belongs is full of confusion.

SUBDIVISIONS OF THE TWO TRIBES. 291
the Tadada, the Tagayes, the Tilkatine,* the Iberubat with the
tamberi Al-Hassan, the Tashil, the Taginna, the Kel-azar, the
I'ghalaf (pronounced I'ralaf), the Toiyammawa,f the Isoka, the
Tegibbu, the Kaina, the Tuji. Among the Kel-geres is a noble
family called in the Arab form A'hel e' Sheikh, which is distin
guished for its learning, their chief and most learned man being
at present Sidi Makhmud.
I must here state that, in political respects, another tribe at
present is closely related with the Kel-geres, viz., that section
of the AweHmmiden (the " Surka" of Mungo Park) which is
caUed AweHmmiden wuen Bodhal ; but as these belong rather
to the Tawarek or Imoshagh of the west, I shall treat of them
in the narrative of my journey to Timbuktu. Other tribes set
tled near A'gades, and more particularly the very remarkable
tribe of the I'ghdalen, wiU, in consequence of the influence ex
erted on them by the Songhay race, be spoken of in my account
of that place.
Many valleys of Air or AsbenJ might produce much more
than they do at present ; but as almost the whole supply of pro-
Iision is imported, as well as aU the clothing- material, it is evi-
ent that the population could not be so numerous as it is, were
; not sustained by the salt-trade of Bilma, wliich furnishes the
people with the means of bartering advantageously with Hausa.
* The tribe of the Tilkatine, appearing here among the clans of the Kel-geres,
is of the highest historical interest ; for there can be no doubt of their being
identical with the tribe of the Tel-kata mentioned by Ebn Khaldiin (vol. i., p.
195, Arab, t., vol. ii., p. 3, trad, par le Baron de Slane) as the most noble and
predominant among all the sections of the Sanhaja.
t The form of this name seems to indicate the sub-Libyan influence which
this subdivision has undergone.
t The list of all the villages and towns of Air, given in the note at the end of
the first volume of Mr. Richardson's Journal, is in general, I think, exact ; there
are only two mistakes of importance — with regard to the population of Talaze-
ghrra aud that of A'fasas (p. 341), each of which places is stated to have 1000
male inhabitants, while the whole population scarcely reaches that number. On
the other hand, the estimate of the population of A'gades at 2500 (p. 343) is too
low. Besides, some places are left out there, such as Isellef, the residence of
Uidi's wife, and some others. I have to regret the loss of a paper which I sent
home from Air, where a topographical arrangement of the villages had been at
tempted.

292 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
As far as I was able to learn from personal information, it would
seem that this trade did not take the road by way of A'sben till
about a century ago, consequently not before the country was
occupied by the Kel-owi. It is natural to suppose that, so long
as the Tebu, or rather Teda, retained political strength, they
would not aUow strangers to reap the whole advantage of such
natural wealth.* At present, the whole authority of A'nnur,
as weU as Ltisu, seems to be based upon this trade, of which
they are the steady protectors, while many of their nation deem
this trade rather a degrading occupation, and incline much more
to a roving life.
I now return to our encampment near Tintellust, reserving a
brief account of the general features of the country tiU the mo
ment when we are about to leave it.

CHAPTER XY.
RESIDENCE IN TINTELLUST.

We saw the old chief on the day foUowing our arrival. He
received us in a straightforward and kindly manner, observing
very simply that even if, as Christians, we had come to his
country stained with guilt, the many dangers and difficulties we
had gone through would have sufficed to wash us clean, and
that we had nothing now to fear but the climate and the thieves.
The presents which were spread out before him he received gra
ciously, but without saying a single word. Of hospitality he
showed no sign. All this was characteristic.
We soon received further explanations. Some days after-
* In the account of the expedition of the Bornu king Edris Alawdma, of which
I shall have to speak in the second volume, no mention is made of this salt-trade
of the Tebu, but from this silence no conclusion can be drawn as to the non-ex
istence of the- salt-trade at that time. On the contrary, we may conclude from
the interesting account of Edrisi (trans. Jaubert, vol. i., p. 117, f.), who certain
ly means to speak of the salt-trade of the Tebu country, although he uses the
term " alum," that this article formed a very important staple in remote times.

A'NNUR'S CHARACTER. 293
ward he sent us the simple and unmistakable message that, if
we wished to proceed to Sudan at our own risk, we might go
in company with the caravan, and he would place no obstacle
in our way ; but if we wanted him to go with us and to protect
us, we ought to pay him a considerable sum. In stating these
plain terms, he made use of a very expressive simile, saying
that as the leffa (or snake) killed every thing that she touched,
so his word, when it had once escaped his Hps, had terminated
the matter in question ; there was nothing more to be said. I
do not think this such an instance of shameful extortion as Mr.
Bichardson represents it, considering how much we gave to oth
ers who did nothing for their pay, and how much trouble we
caused A'nnur. On the contrary, having observed A'nnur's
dealings to the very last, and having arrived under his protec
tion safely at Katsena, I must pronounce him a straightforward
and trustworthy man, who stated his terms plainly and dryly,
but stuck to them with scrupulosity ; and as he did not treat
us, neither did he ask any thing* from us, nor allow his people
to do so. I shall never forgive him for his niggardliness in not
I offering me so much as a drink of fura or ghussub- water when
II visited him, in the heat of the day, on his little estate near
PTasawa ; but I can not withhold from him my esteem both as
a great politician in his curious little empire, and as a man re
markable for singleness of word and purpose.
Having come into the country as hated intruders pursued by
all classes of people, we could not expect to be received by him
otherwise than coldly ; but his manner changed entirely when I
was about to set out for A'gades, in order to obtain the good
will of the sultan of the country. He came to our encampment
to see me off, and from that day forth did not omit to visit us
every day, and to maintain the most familiar intercourse with
us. So it was with aU the people ; and I formed so many
friendships with them that the turbulent Mohammed, A'nnur's
cousin, used often to point to them as a proof how impossible it
was that he could have been the instigator of the misdeeds per-
* The little trifles which we gave him occasionally are scarcely worth men
tioning.

294 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
petrated on the night preceding our arrival in TinteUust, when
we were treated with violence and our luggage was rifled. Still
we had, of course, many disagreeable experiences to make before
we became naturaHzed in this new country.
It was the rainy season ; and the rain, setting in almost daily,
caused us as much interest and delight (being a certain proof
that we had reached the new regions after which we had so long
been hankering) as served to counterbalance the trouble which
it occasioned. Sometimes it feU very heavily, and, coming on
always with a dreadful storm, was very difficult to be kept out
from the tent, so that our things often got wet. The heaviest
rain we had was on the 9th of September, when an immense
torrent was formed, not only in the chief valley, but even in the
small ravine behind our encampment. Yet we liked the rain
much better than the sand-storm. In a few days nature all
around assumed so fresh and luxuriant a character, that, so long
as we were left in repose, we felt cheered to the utmost, and
enjoyed our pleasant encampment, which was surrounded by
masses of granite blocks, wide-spreading bushes of the abisga,
and large, luxuriant talha-trees, in wild and most picturesque
confusion. It was very pleasant and interesting to observe ev
ery day the rapid growth of the little fresh leaves and young
offshoots, and the spreading of the shady foliage.
Monkeys now and then descended into the little hoUow be
yond our tents to obtain a draught of water, and numbers of
jackals were heard every night roving about us, while the trees
swarmed with beautiful ring-doves and hoopoes, and other small
er birds. The climate of Air has been celebrated from the time
of Leo, on account "deUabonta e temperanza deU'aere." But,
unfortunately, our little English suburb proved too distant from
the protecting arm of the old chief; and after the unfortunate
attack in the night of the 17th of September, which, if made
with vigor, would inevitably have ended in our destruction, we
were obliged to move our encampment, and, crossing the broad
valley, pitch it in the plain near the viUage.
But the circumstances connected with this attack were so cu
rious that I must relate them in a few words. The rain, which

NOCTURNAL ATTACK. 295
had wetted all our things, and made us anxious about our in
struments and arms, seemed to abate ; and Overweg and I de
cided, the very day preceding the attack in question, on cleaning
our guns and pistols, which had been loaded for some time;
and having cleaned them, and wishing to dry them well, we did
not load them again immediately. In the afternoon we had a
visit from two well-dressed men, mounted on a mehara ; they
did not beg for any thing, but inspected the tents very atten
tively, making the remark that our tent was as strong as a
house, while Mr. Bichardson's was light and open at the bot
tom. The moon shed a splendid light over the interesting wilder
ness ; and our black servants being uncommonly cheerful and
gay that night, music and dancing was going on in the vUlage,
and they continued playing till a very late hour, when they fell
asleep. Going the round of our encampment before I went to
lie down, I observed at a little distance a strange camel, or rath
er meheri, kneeling quietly down with its head toward our tents.
I called my colleagues, and expressed my suspicion that all
was not right ; but our light-hearted and frivolous servant Mo
hammed calmed my uneasiness by pretending that he had seen
the camel there before, though that was not true. Still I had
some sad foreboding, and, directing my attention unluckily to
the wrong point, caused our sheep to be tied close to our tent.
Being uneasy, I did not sleep soundly ; and a Httle after two
o'clock I thought I heard a very strange noise, just as if a troop
of people were marching with a steady step round our tents,
and muttering in a jarring voice. Listening anxiously for a
moment, I felt sure that there were people near the tent, and
was about to rush out ; but again, on hearing the sound of
music proceeding from the viUage, I persuaded myself that the
noise came from thence, and lay down to slumber, when sud
denly I heard a louder noise, as if several men were rushing up
the hUl, and, grasping a sword and calling aloud for our people,
I jumped out of the tent ; but there was nobody to be seen.
Going then round the hill to Mr. Bichardson's tent, I met him
coming out half dressed, and begging me to pursue the robbers,

296 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
who had carried away some of his things. Some of his boxes
were dragged out of the tent, but not emptied : none of his
servants were to be seen except S'aid, all the rest having run
away without giving an alarm, so that all of us might have been
murdered. But immediately after this accident we received the distinct
assurance of protection both from the Sultan of A'gades and
from the great m'allem Azori ; and I began to plan my excur
sion to A'gades more definitely, and entered into communication
with the chief on this point. Meanwhile I collected a great deal
of information* about the country, partly from a Tawati of the
name of 'Abd el Kader (not the same who accompanied us on
the road from Ghat), and partly from some of the Tinylkum,
who, having left us the day after our arrival in TinteUust, had
dispersed aU over the country, some pasturing their camels in
the most favored localities, others engaged in little trading spec
ulations, and paying us a visit every now and then. Small
caravans came and went, and among them one from Sudan, with
its goods laden almost entirely on pack-oxen — a most cheerful
sight, filling our hearts with the utmost delight, as we were
sure that we had now passed those dreary deserts where nothing
but the persevering and abstemious camel can enable man to
maintain communications.
At length, then, we were enabled to write to government, and
to our friends in Europe, assuring them that we had now over
come, apparently, most of the difficulties which appeared likely
to oppose our progress, and that we felt justified in believing
that we had now fairly entered upon the road which would lead
directly to the attainment of the objects of the expedition.
With regard to our provisions, Overweg and I were at first
rather ill off, while Mr. Bichardson, although he had been
obliged to supply food on the road to troops both of friends and
foes, had still a small remnant of the considerable stores which
he had laid in at Murzuk. We had been led to expect that we
should find no difficulty in procuring aU necessaries, and even a
* That part of my information which regarded the topography of the country,
and which I forwarded during our stay there, has unfortunately been lost.

I

WANT OF PROPER FOOD. 297
few luxuries, in A'sben (and carriage was so dear that we were
obliged to rely upon these promises) ; but we were now sadly
disappointed. After a few days, however, the inhabitants being
informed that we were in want of provisions, and were ready to
buy, brought us small quantities of Guinea-corn, butter — the
botta (or box made of rough hide, in the way common over al
most the whole of Central Africa) for two or two and a half
mithkals — and even a little fresh cheese ; we were also able to
buy two or three goats, and by sending Ibrahim, who had now
recovered from his Guinea-worm, to A'sodi, where provisions
are always stored up in smaU quantities, we obtained a tolera
ble camel-load of durra or sorghum.
But I could not relish this grain at aU, and as I was not able
to introduce any variety into my diet, I suffered much ; hence
it was fortunate for me that I went to A'gades, where my food
was more varied, and my health consequently improved. I
afterward became accustomed to the various preparations of
sorghum and Pennisetum, particularly the asida or tiivo, and
found that no other food is so well adapted for a hot climate ;
but it requires a good deal of labor to prepare it well, and this,
of course, is a difficult matter for a European traveler, who has
no female slave or partner to look after his meals. Our food
during our stay in A'sben was so ill prepared (being generally
quite bitter, owing to the husk not being perfectly separated
from the grain) that no native of the country would taste it.
Meanwhile, my negotiation with the chief with regard to my
going to A'gades, which I managed as silently and secretly as
possible, went on prosperously, and on the 30th of September
I took my leave of him, having with me on the occasion a pres
ent for himself, worth about eighty riyals, or eleven pounds
sterling, and the presents intended for the Sultan of A'gades, in
order that he might see what they were and express his opinion
upon them ; and I was greatly pleased to find that he was sat
isfied with both. He promised me perfect safety, although the
undertaking looked a little dangerous, and had a letter written
to 'Abd el Kader (or, in the popular form, Kadiri — this was the
name of the new sultan), wherein he recommended me to him in

298 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the strongest terms, and enumerated the presents I meant to
offer to him.
But as soon as my intention transpired, all the people, unin
vited as well as invited, hastened to give me their best advice
and to dissuade me from embarking in an undertaking which
would certainly be my ruin. Conspicuous among these motley
counselors was a son of Haj 'Abdiiwa, the presumptive heir of
A'nnur, who conjured me to abandon my design. These peo
ple, indeed, succeeded in frightening Yusuf Makni, Mr. Bichard
son's interpreter, whom the latter wished to send with me ; but
as for myself, I knew what I was about, and had full confidence
in the old chief's promise, and was rather glad to get rid of
Makni, whom I well knew to be a clever, but no less malicious
and intriguing person. With difficulty I persuaded Moham
med, our Tunisian shushan, to accompany me ; and I also suc
ceeded in hiring Amankay, Mr. Bichardson's active black Biizu
servant, who, however, on this trip proved utterly useless, as we
had no sooner set out than he began to suffer from his old com
plaint of Guinea-worm, and was the whole time too lame for
service. I then arranged with Hamma, A'nnur's son-in-law, under
whose especial protection I was to undertake my journey, but
whom I had to pay separately. I gave him the value of eleven
mithkals, or about one pound sterling, for himself, and hired
from him two camels, each for six mithkals. After various de
lays, which, however, enabled me to send off two more of my
journals, together with letters, to Murzuk, by the hand of a
half-caste Kel-owi of the name of Bawa Amakita, our departure
was definitively fixed for the 4th of October.

DEPARTURE FOR A'GADES. 299

CHAPTER XVI.
JOURNEY TO A'GADES.
Friday, October 4th. At length the day arrived when I was
to set out on my long-wished-for excursion to A'gades ; for al
though at that time I was not aware of the whole extent of in
terest attaching to that place, it had nevertheless been to me a
point of the strongest attraction. For what can be more inter
esting than a considerable town, said to have been once as large
as Tunis, situated in the midst of lawless tribes, on the border
of the desert and of the fertile tracts of an almost unknown con
tinent, estabhshed there from ancient times, and protected as a
place of rendezvous and commerce between nations of the most
different character, and having the most various wants ? It is
by mere accident that this town has not attracted as much in
terest in Europe as her sister town Timbuktu.
It was a fine morning, with a healthy and refreshing light
breeze, invigorating both body and mind. The old chief, who
had never before visited our encampment, now came out to pay
us his compliments, assuring me once more that " my safety
rested upon his head." But his heart was so gladdened at wit
nessing our efforts to befriend the other great men of his coun
try that his habitual niggardliness was overcome, and with
graceful hospitality he resigned one of his bullocks to our party.
The little caravan I was to accompany consisted of six cam
els, five-and-thirty-asses, and two buUocks, one of which was
allotted to me, till my protector Hamma should be able to hire
a camel for me. But, although weU accustomed to ride on
horseback as well as on a camel, I had never yet in my life
tried to sit astride on the broad back of a buUock ; and the af
fair was the more difficult as there was no saddle, nor any thing
to sit upon, except parcels of luggage not very tightly fastened
to the animal's back, and swinging from one side to the other.

300 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
After the first bullock had been rejected as quite unfit, in its
wild, intractable mood, to carry me, or indeed any thing else, and
when it had been allowed to return to the herd, the second was
at length secured, the luggage fastened somehow on his back,
and I was bid to mount. I must truly confess that I should
have been better pleased with a horse, or even an ass ; but still,
hoping to manage matters, I took my seat, and, bidding my fel
low-travelers farewell, followed my black companions up the
broad valley by which we had come from the north. But we
soon left it and ascended the rocky ground, getting an interest
ing view of the broad and massive Mount Eghellal before us.
Having at first thought my seat rather too insecure for mak
ing observations, I grew by degrees a little more confident, and,
taking out my compass, noted the direction of the road, when
suddenly the baggage threatened to fall over to the right, where
upon I threw the whole weight of my body to the left, in order
to keep the balance ; but I unluckily overdid it, and so all at
once down I came, with the whole baggage. The ground was
rocky ; and I should inevitably have been hurt not a little if I
had not fallen upon the muzzle of my musket, which I was car
rying on my shoulder, and which, being very strong, sustained
the shock, and kept my head from the ground. Even my com
pass, which I had open in my left hand, most fortunately escaped
uninjured ; and I felt extremely glad that I had faUen so adroit
ly, but vowed never again to mount a bullock.
I preferred marching on foot tiU we reached the valley Eghel-
liiwa, where plenty of water is found in several wells. Here we
halted a moment, and I mounted behind Hamma, on the lean
back of his camel, holding on by his saddle ; but I could not
much enjoy my seat, as I was greatly annoyed by his gun stick
ing out on the right, and at every moment menacing my face.
I was therefore much pleased when we reached the little village
of Tiggereresa, lying on the border of a broad valley well clothed
with talha-trees, and a little further on encamped in a pleasant
recess formed by projecting masses of granite blocks ; for here
I was told we should surely find camels, and, in fact, Hamma
hired two for me, for four mithkals each, to go to and return

TAWA'REK BLACKSMITHS. 301
from A'gades. Here we also changed our companions, the very
intelligent Mohammed, a son of one of A'nnur's sisters, return
ing to Tintellust, while the turbulent Mohammed (I caUed him
by no other name than Mohammed babo hankali), our friend
from Af is, came to attend us, and with him Hammeda, a cheer
ful and amiable old man, who was a fair specimen of the im
provement derivable from the mixture of different blood and of
different national qualities ; for, while he possessed all the cheer
fulness and vivacity of the Gober nation, his demeanor was nev
ertheless moderated by the soberness and gravity peculiar to the
Berber race ; and though, while always busy, he was not effect
ively industrious, yet his character approached very closely to
the European standard.
He was by trade a 'blacksmith, a more comprehensive profes
sion in these countries than in Europe, although in general these
famous blacksmiths have neither iron nor tools to work with.
AU over the Tawarek country the " enhad" (smith) is much re
spected, and the confraternity is most numerous. An "enhad"
is generally the prime minister of every little chief. The Arabs
in Timbuktu caU these blacksmiths " m'allem," which may give
an idea of their high rank and respected character. Then there
is also the "m'aUema," the constant female companion of the
chief's wife, expert above all in beautiful leather works.
In order to avoid, as much as possible, attracting the atten
tion of the natives, I had taken no tent with me, and sheltered
myself at night under the projecting roof of the granite blocks,
my Kel-owi friends sleeping around me.
Saturday, October 5th. Hamma was so good as to give up
to me his fine taU meheri, while he placed his simple little sad
dle or " kiri" on the back of the young, and ill-trained camel
hired here, a proceeding which in the course of our journey al
most cost him his ribs. In truth, I had no saddle ; yet my seat
was arranged comfortably by placing first two leathern bags
filled with soft articles across the back of the camel, and then
fastening two others over them lengthwise, and spreading my
carpet over all. Even for carrying their salt, the Kel-owi very
rarely employ saddles, or if they do, only of the lightest descrip-

302

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

tion, made of straw, which have nothing in common with the
heavy and hot " hawiya" of the Arabs.
The country through which we traveled was a picturesque
wilderness, with rocky ground intersected at every moment by
winding valleys and dry water-courses richly overgrown, with
grasses and mimosas, while majestic mountains and detached
peaks towered over, the landscape, the most interesting object
during the whole day being Mount Chereka, with its curious

double peak, as it appeared from various sides, first looking as
if it were a single peak, only bifurcated at the top, then after a
while showing two peaks separated almost to the very base, and
rising in picturesque forms nearly to the same elevation. Un

fortunately, our road did not lead us near it, although I was as
anxious to explore this singular mountain as to visit the town
of A'sodi, which some years ago attracted attention in Europe.
We had sent a present to Astafidet, the chief of the Kel-owi
residing here, and probably I should have been well received;
but Hamma would not hear of our going there now, so we left
the town at no great distance to the right, and I must content
myself with here inserting the information obtained from other
people who had been there repeatedly.

A'SODI. 303
A'sodi,* lying at no great distance from the foot of Mount
Chereka, which forms the most characteristic feature of the sur
rounding landscape, was once an important place, and a great re
sort for merchants, though, as it is not mentioned by any Arabic
writer, not even by Leo, it would seem to be of much later ori
gin than A'gades. Above a thousand houses, buUt of clay and
stone, lie at present in ruins, while only about eighty are still
inhabited ; this would testify that it was once a comparatively
considerable place, with from eight to ten thousand inhabitants.
Such an estimate of its magnitude is confirmed by the fact that
there were seven tamizgidas, or mosques, in the town, the largest
of which was ornamented with columns, the " mamber" alone
being ornamented with three, while the naves were covered in
partly with a double roof, made of the stems of the dtim-tree,
and partly with cupolas.
The town, however, seems never to have been inclosed with
a waU, and in this respect, as well as in its size, was always in
ferior to A'gades. At present, although the population is scat
tered about, the market of A'sodi is stiU well provided with pro
visions, and even with the more common merchandise. The
house of the amanokal of the Kel-owi is said to stand on a little
eminence in the western part of the town, surrounded by about
twenty cottages. There is no well inside, all the water being
fetched from a weU which lies in a valley stretching from north
to south.
Conversing with my companions about this place, which we
left at a short distance to our right, and having before us the
interesting picture of the mountain range of Bunday, with its
neighboring heights, forming one continuous group with Mount
Eghellal, we reached the fine valley Chizolen, and rested in it
during the hottest hours of the day under a beautiful talha-tree,
whUe the various beasts composing our little caravan found a
rich pasturage all around.
* It is an obvious mistake to derive this name, which is written j^A and
i&ye], though the former is the more correct form, and is evidently of sub-
Libyan origin, from the Arabic word j.1 (black).

304

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

Having taken here a sufficient supply of very good water
from hollows scooped in the sand, we continued our march over
rocky ground thickly covered with herbage, and surmounted on
our right by the angular outlines and isolated sugar-loafs of a
craggy ridge, while on our left rose the broad, majestic form of
Mount Eghellal. As evening came on I was greatly cheered
at the sight of a herd of well-fed cattle returning from their pas
ture-grounds to their night-quarters near the village of Eghellal,
which lies at the foot of the mountain so named. They were
fine, sturdy bullocks of moderate size, all with the hump, and
of glossy dark-brown color.
In the distance, as the Eghellal began to retire, there appear
ed behind it, in faint outlines, Mount Baghzen, which of late
years had become so famous in Europe, and had filled my imag
ination with lofty crests and other features of romantic sceneiy.
But how disappointed was I when, instead of all this, I saw it
stretching along in one almost unbroken line ! I soon turned
my eyes from it to Mount Eghellal, which now disclosed to us
a deep chasm or crevice (the channel of powerful floods) separ
ating a broad cone, and apparently dividing the whole mountain
mass into two distinct groups.

At six o'clock in the evening we encamped in the shallow
valley of EgheUal, at some distance from the well, and were

MOUNT BA'GHZEN. 305
greatly delighted at being soon joined by Haj 'Abduwa, the son
of Fatim (A'nnur's eldest sister), and the chief's presumptive
heir, a man of about fifty years of age, and of intelligent and
agreeable character. I treated him with a cup or two of coffee
weU sweetened, and conversed with him a while about the dif
ference between Egypt, which he had visited on his pilgrimage,
and his own country. He was weU aware of the immense su
periority even of that state of society ; but, on the other hand,
he had not failed to observe the misery connected with great
density of population, and he told me, with a certain degree of
pride, that there were few people in Air so miserable as a large
class of the inhabitants of Cairo. Being attacked by severe fe
ver, he returned the next morning to his viUage Tafidet, but aft
erward accompanied the chief Astafidet on his expedition to
A'gades, where I saw him again. I met him also in the course
of my travels twice in Kukawa, whither he alone of all his tribe
used to go in order to maintain friendly relations with that
court, which was too often disturbed by the predatory habits of
roving Kel-owi.
Sunday, October 6th. Starting early, we soon reached a more
open country, wliich to the eye seemed to lean toward Mount

Baghzen; but this was only an iUusion, as appeared clearly
from the direction of the dry water-courses, which all ran from
E. to W.S.W. On our right we had now Mount A'gata, which
has given its name to the village mentioned above as lying at
its foot. Here the fertility of the soil seemed greatly increased,
the herbage becoming more fresh and abundant, while numer
ous talhas and abisgas adorned the country. Near the foot of
-the extensive mountain group of Baghzen, and close to another
mountain called Ajuri, there are even some very favored spots,
Vol. I._ U

306 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
especially a valley called Chimmia, ornamented with a fine
date-grove, which produces fruit of excellent quality. As we
entered the meandering windings of a broad water-course, we
obtained an interesting view of Mount Belasega. The plain
now contracted, and, on entering a narrow defile of the ridges,
we had to cross a small pass, from the top of which a most
charming prospect met our eyes.

A grand and beautifuUy-shaped mountain rose on our right,
leaving, between its base and the craggy heights, the offshoots
of which we were crossing, a broad vaUey running almost east
and west, while at the eastern foot of the mountain a narrow
but richly-adorned valley wound along through the lower rocky
ground. This was Mount Abila, or Bila, which is at once one
of the most picturesque objects in the country of Air, and seems
to bear an interesting testimony to a connection with that great
family of mankind which we call the Semitic ; for the name of
this mountain, or, rather, of the moist and "green vale" at its
foot (throughout the desert, even in its most favored parts, it is
the valley which generally gives its name to the mountain), is
probably the same as that of the well-known spot in Syria from
which the province of Abilene has been named.*
A little beyond the first dry water-course, where water was
to be scooped out a few feet under the surface of the ground, we
rested for the heat of the day ; but the vegetation around was
* See Gesenius, s. v. " abel ;" and compare Porter, Five Tears in Damascus,
vol. i., p. 264 ; Stanley, Sinai and Palestine, p. 405, 485.

VALLEY OF TI'GGEDA.

307

far from being so rich here as in the valley Tiggeda, at the east
ern foot of the picturesque mountain, where, after a short march
in the afternoon, we encamped for the night. This was the
finest valley I had yet seen in the country. The broad, sandy
bed of the torrent, at present dry, was bordered with the most
beautiful fresh grass, forming a fine turf, shaded by the richest
and densest foliage of several kinds of mimosa, the taborak or
Balanites, the taghmart, the abisga, and tunfafia,* while over
all this mass of verdure towered the beautiful peaks which on
this side start forth from the massive mountain, the whole tinged
with the varied tints of the setting sun. This delicious specta
cle filled my heart with delight ; and having sat down a little
while quietly to enjoy it, I made a sketch of the beautiful forms
of the mountain peaks.

Just before, encamping we had passed a small chapel in ruins
surrounded by a cemetery. At that time I thought this valley
identical with the Tekadda (as the name is generally spelled),
* I have noticed in my memorandum-book also that I saw here the first txiji :
but what " tuji" means I am at present unable to say.

308 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
mentioned by Ebn Khaldtin and by Ebn Batiita* as an inde
pendent little Berber state- between Gogo and Kahir, lying on
the road of the pilgrims ; but I found afterward that there is
another place which has better claims to this identification.
Monday, October 1th. We began a most interesting day's
march, winding first along the valley Tiggeda (which now, in
the cool of the morning, was enlivened by numerous flocks of
wUd pigeons), and then over a short tract of rocky ground, en
tering the still more picturesque " erazar-n-A'sada," on the west
only lined by low rocky ridges, but bordered toward the east by
the steep massive forms of the Dogem. Here, indeed, a really
tropical profusion of vegetation covered the whole bottom of the
valley, and scarcely left a narrow low passage for the camels,
the rider being obliged to stoop every moment to avoid being
swept off his seat. The principal tree here is the dtim-tree, or
Oucifera Thebdica, which I had not seen since Selufiet, but
here it was in the wild picturesque state into which it soon re
lapses if left to nature. There was, besides, a great variety of
the acacia tribe all growing most luxuriantly, and interwoven
with creepers, which united the whole mass of vegetation into
one thick canopy. I regret that there was no leisure for mak
ing a sketch, as this valley was far more picturesque even than
Auderas, of which I have been able to give the reader a slight
outline. In this interesting valley we met two droll and jovial-looking
musicians, clad in a short and narrow blue shirt well-fastened
round their loins, and a small straw hat. Each of them carried
a large drum or timbaK, with which they had been cheering the
spirits of a wedding-party, and were now proceeding to some
other place on a similar errand. We then met a large slave-
caravan, consisting of about forty camels and sixty slaves, wind
ing along the narrow path, hemmed in by the rank vegetation,
and looking rather merry than sad — the poor blacks gladdened
doubtless by the picturesque landscape, and keeping up a live
ly song in their native melody. In the train of this caravan,
* Ebn Khaldun, texte Arabe, torn, i., p. 265 ; Ebn Batiita, Journal Asiatique,
1843, p. 233.

THE DOGEM. 309
and probably interested in its lawless merchandise, went Snusi
and Awed el Kher, two of the camel-drivers with whom we had
come from Murzuk, and who probably had laid out the money
gained from the English mission in the very article of trade
which it is the desire of the English government to prohibit.
This is a sinister result of well-meant commercial impulses,
which wiU probably subsist as long as the slave-trade itself ex
ists on the north coast of Africa.*
On emerging from the thick forest, we obtained the first sight
of the majestic cone of the Dogem, while a very narrow ravine
or cleft in the steep cliffs on our left led to the viUage of A'sa-
da. We then began to ascend, sometimes along narrow ravines,
at others on sloping rocky ground, all covered with herbage up
to the summits of the lower mountains. In this way we reach
ed the highest point of the pass, about 2500 feet, having the
broad cone of the Dogem on our left, which I then thought to
be the most elevated point of Air, though, as I mentioned above,
the old chief A'nnur maintained that the Timge is higher. This
conspicuous mountain most probably consists of basalt ; and,
from what I shaU observe further on, it may be inferred that
the whole group of the Baghzen does so too.
From this pass we descended into the pebbly plain of Erarar-
n-Dendemu, thickly overgrown with smaU talha-trees, and show
ing along the path numerous footprints of the lion, which is ex
tremely common in these highland wUdernesses, which, whUe
affording sufficient vegetation and water for a variety of animals,
are but thinly inhabited, and every where offer a safe retreat.
However, from what I saw of him, he is not a very ferocious
animal here.
The weather meanwhile had become sultry, and when, after
having left the plain, we were winding through narrow glens,
the storm, the last of the rainy season, broke out, and, through
the mismanagement of the slaves, not only our persons, but all
our things, were soaked with the rain. Our march became rath
er cheerless, every thing being wet, and the whole ground cov-
* At the moment I am revising this, I am happy to state that the slave-trade
is really abolished.

310 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ered with water, which along the water-courses formed power
ful torrents. At length we entered the gloomy, rugged valley
of Taghist, covered with basaltic stones, mostly of the size of a
child's head, and bordered by sorry-looking rocky hills.
Taghist is remarkable as the place of prayer founded by the
man who introduced Islam into Central Negroland,* and thus
gave the first impulse to that continual struggle which, always
extending further and further, seems destined to overpower the
nations at the very equator, if Christianity does not presently
step in to dispute the ground with it. This man was the cele
brated Mohammed ben 'Abd el Kerim ben Maghili, a native of
Buda in Tawat, f and a contemporary and intimate friend of the
Sheikh e' Soyuti,i that living encyclopaedia and keystone, if I
may be allowed the expression, of Mohammedan learning.
Living in the time when the great Songhay empire began to
decline from that pitch of power which it had reached under the
energetic sway of Sonni 'AH and Mohammed el Haj A'skia,
and stung by the injustice of A'skia Ism'ail, who refused to
punish the murderers of his son, he turned his eyes on the
country where successful resistance had first been made against
the all-absorbing power of the Asaki, and which, fresh and
youthful as it was, promised a new splendor, if enlightened by
the influence of a purer religion. Instigated by such motives,
partly merely personal, partly of a more elevated character,
Mohammed ben 'Abd el Kerim turned his steps toward Katse
na, where we shall find him again ; but on his way thither
he founded in this spot a place of prayer, to remain a monu
ment to the traveler of the path which the religion of the One
God took from the far East to the country of the blacks.
* I trust my readers will approve of my using the expression Western Negro
land to denote the countries from Fiita as far as Sokoto ; Middle Sudan, or Cen
tral Negroland, from Sokoto to Bagirmi ; and Eastern Negroland, comprising
Wadiiy, Darfiir, Kordofan, and Sennar. However, here, when I say that Mo
hammed ben 'Abd el Kerim introduced Islam into Central Negroland, I exclude
Bornu, where the Mohammedan religion is much older.
t He may have been born in Telemsan, but at least from very early youth he
was settled in Tawat.
X E' Soyiiti's full name is Abu '1 Fadhl Jelal e' din 'Abd e' Rahman el Kuo-
dairi e' Soyiiti.

AU'DERAS.— B ARB ARITY. 3 J 1
The "msid" or "mesalla" at present is only marked by
stones laid out in a regular way, and inclosing a space from
sixty to seventy feet long and fifteen broad, with a small meh-
hrab, which is adorned (accidentally or intentionally, I can not
say) by a young talha-tree. This is the venerated and far-
famed " Makam e' Sheikh ben 'Abd el Kerim," where the trav
eler coming from the north never omits to say his prayers ; oth
ers call it Msid Sidi Baghdadi, the name Baghdadi being often
given by the blacks to the sheikh, who had long resided in the
East. At length we descended from the rugged ground of Taghist
into the commencement of the celebrated vaUey of Auderas,
the fame of which penetrated to Europe many years ago. Here
we encamped, wet as we were, on the slope of the rocky ground,
in order to guard against the humidity of the valley. Opposite
to us, toward the south, on the top of a hill, lay the little viUage
Aerwen wan Tidrak. Another viUage, called I'farghen, is sit
uated higher up the valley on the road from Arideras to Damer
ghu. On our return I saw in this valley a barbarous mode of
tiUage, three slaves being yoked to a sort of plow, and driven
like oxen by their master. This is probably the most southern
place in Central Africa where the plow is used ; for aU over Su
dan the hoe or fertana is the only instrument used for preparing
the ground.
Tuesday, October 8th. While the weather was clear and fine,
the vaUey, bordered on both sides by steep precipices, and adorn
ed with a rich grove of dum-trees, and bush and herbage in great
variety, displayed its mingled beauties, chiefly about the weU,
where, on our return-journey, I made the accompanying sketch.
This valley, as well as those succeeding it, is able to produce
not only millet, but even wheat, wine, and dates, with almost
every species of vegetable ; and there are said to be fifty garden-
fields (gonaki) near the viUage of I'farghen.
But too soon we left this charming strip of cultivation, and
ascended the rocky ground on our right, above which again rose
several detached hills, one of which had so interesting and well-
marked a shape that I sketched its outlines. The road which

312 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

we followed is not the common one. The latter, after crossing
very rugged ground for about fifteen miles, keeps along the fine
deep valley Telwa for about ten mUes, and then ascending for
about an hour, reaches A'gades in three hours more. This lat
ter road passes by Timelen, where, at times, a considerable mar
ket is said to be held.
Having descended again, we found the ground in the plain
covered with a thin crust of natron, and farther on met people
busy in collecting it ; but it is not of very good quality, nor at
all comparable to that of Munio or to that of the shores of Lake
Tsad. There are several places on the border between the des
ert and the fertile districts of Negroland which produce this
mineral, which forms a most important article of commerce in
middle Sudan. Another well-known natron-district is in Za-
berma ; but in Western Sudan natron is almost unknown, and
it is only very rarely that a smaU sample of it can be got in
Timbuktu. Many of the Kel-owi have learned (most probably
from the Teda or T6bu) the disgusting custom of chewing to
bacco intermixed with natron, while only very few of them
smoke. The monotony of the country ceased when we entered the
valley Btidde, which, running in the direction of our path from
S.S.W. to N.N.E., is adorned with a continuous strip of dum-
trees, besides abisga and talha ; but the latter were of rather
poor growth in the northern part of the valley. Having cross
ed at noon the broad, sandy water-course, which winds through
the rich carpet of vegetation, and where there happened to be a
tolerably large pond of water, we encamped in the midst of the
thicket. Here the mimosas attained such an exuberance as I
had scarcely observed, even in the valley of A'sada, and being
closely interwoven with "graffeni" or climbing plants, they
formed an almost impenetrable thicket. From the midst of this

THE PENNISETUM DISTICHUM. 313
thorny mass of vegetation a beautiful ripe fruit, about an inch
and a half long, of the size of a date, and of dark-red color,
awakened the desire of the traveler ; but, having eaten a few, I
found them, though sweet, rather mawkish.
Here, too, I first became acquainted with the troublesome na
ture of the "karengia," or Pennisetum distichum, which, to
gether with the ant, is to the traveler in Central Africa his
greatest and most constant inconvenience. It was just ripe,
and the little bur-like seeds attached themselves to every part
of my dress. It is quite necessary to be always provided with
smaU pincers, in order to draw out from the fingers the little
stings, which, if left in the skin, wUl cause sores. None even
of the wild roving natives is ever without such an instrument.
But it is not a useless plant ; for, besides being the most nour
ishing food for cattle, it furnishes even man with a rather slight,
but by no means tasteless food. Many of the Tawarek, from
Bornu as far as Timbuktu, subsist more or less upon the seeds
of the Pennisetum distichum, which they call " tizak." The
drink made of it is certainly not bad, resembling in coolness the
fura or ghussub-water.
From the circumstance that our Kel-owi were here cutting
grass for the camels, I concluded that the next part of our jour
ney would lead through an entirely sterile tract ; but, though
the herbage was here exuberant, it was not at aU wanting far
ther on. Having left the vaUey a while to our right, we soon
re-entered it, and crossed several beautiful branches of it veiy
rich in vegetation. We then encamped on an open place be
yond the southernmost branch, close to a cemetery of the Im
ghad, who inhabit a small village to the east called Tawar Nwa-
ijdud, and farther on some other villages, called Te"ndau, Tinta-
borak, and EmelloH.
While, with the rest of our companions, we tried to make
ourselves comfortable on the hard ground and under the open
canopy of heaven, Hamma and Mohammed took up their quar
ters with the Imghad, and, according to their own statement on
their return the following morning, were very hospitably treat
ed, both by the male and female part of the inhabitants. As

314 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
for the Imghad who live in these fertile valleys round A'gades,
they are divided into numerous sections, of which I learned the
following names : the Eher-heren, the Kel-chisem, the'Taranaiji,
the Edarreban, the Yowuswosan, the Efelengeras, the E'heten,*
the Tariwaza, the Ihingemangh, the Egemmen, the Edellen, the
Kel-tedele, and the Ikohanen.
Wednesday, October 9th. Our route led us over stony ground
tUl we reached another favored valley, called Tefarrakad, where,
owing to the water-course being divided into several branches,
vegetation is spread over a larger space. Here, while our Kel-
owi hung a little behind, two Imghad, mounted on camels, at
tached themselves to us and became rather troublesome; but
they looked so famished and thin that they awakened pity rath
er than any other feeling, their dress and whole attire being of
the poorest description. Farther on, when we had left the val
ley and ascended rocky ground, we met a small caravan of the
same mixed kind as our own troop — camels, bullocks, asses,
and men on foot ; they were returning to their village with pro
vision of Negro millet, which they had bought in A'gades.
We had scarcely advanced three miles when we descended
again into another long, beautiful hollow in the rocky ground,
the valley Boghel, which, besides a fine grove of dum-trees, ex
hibits one very large and remarkable specimen of the tree caUed
bauref in Hausa, a large ficus with ample fleshy leaves of beau
tiful green. This specimen, so far to the north, measured not
less than twenty-six feet in circumference at the height of eight
feet from the ground, and was certainly eighty feet high, with a
full, wide-spreading crown. I scarcely remember afterward to
have seen in all Sudan a larger baure than this. Here, for the
first time, I heard the Guinea-fowl (" taliat" or " tailelt" in Te-
mashight, " zabo" in Hausa) ; for I did not see it, the birds
keeping to the thick and impenetrable underwood which filled
the intervals between the dum-trees.
* This name may be connected with the Songhay or Sonrhay; the Awelim-
miden, at least, call the Songhay people Ehetane.
t This tree has nothing in common with the Adansonia, with which it has
been supposed to be identical.

THE FERTILE VALLEY BO'GHEL. 315
At noon the wood, which was rather more than half a mile
in breadth, formed one continued and unbroken cluster of thick
et in the most picturesque state of wild luxuriance, while farther
on, where it became a little clearer of underwood, the ground
was covered with a sort of wUd melon ; but my friend the black
smith, who took up one of them and applied his teeth to it,
threw it away with such a grimace that I rather suspect he
mistook a colocynth, " jangunna," for a melon, " gunna." Num
bers of the Asclepias gigantea, which never grows on a spot in
capable of cultivation, bore testimony to the fertiHty of the soil,
which was soon more clearly demonstrated by a small corn
field still under cultivation. Traces of former cultivation were
evident on aU sides. There can scarcely be the least doubt
that these vaUeys, which were expressly left to the care of the
degraded tribes or the Imghad, on condition of their paying
from the produce a certain tribute to their masters, once pre
sented a very different aspect ; but when the power of the ruler
of A'gades dwindled away to a shadow, and when the Imghad,
who received from him their kaid or governor, " tagaza," ceased
to fear him, preferring robbery and pillage to the cultivation of
the ground, these fine vaUeys were left to themselves, and re
lapsed into a wilderness.
We encamped at an early hour in the afternoon near the wa
ter-course, but did not succeed in obtaining water by digging,
so that we could not even cook a little supper. Farther down
the vaUey there had been a copious supply of water, and we
had passed there a numerous caravan of asses near a large pool ;
but my companions, who were extremely negligent in this re
spect, would not then lay in a supply. Several Tawarek, or
rather Imoshagh and Imghad, encamped around us for the night,
and thus showed that we were approaching a centre of inter
course. Owing to our want of water, we started at a very early hour,
and, ascending gradually, after a little more than three miles,
reached the height of the pebbly plateau on which the town of
A'gades has been built. After having received several accounts
of this naked " hammada" or " tenere" stretching out to the

316 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
distance of several days, I was agreeably surprised to find that
it was by no means so dreary and monotonous as I had been
led to expect, forming now and then shallow depressions a few
feet only lower than the pebbly surface, and sometimes extend
ing to a considerable distance, where plenty of herbage and
middle-sized acacia were growing. The road was now becom
ing frequented ; and my companions, with a certain feeling of
pride, showed me in the distance the high " Mesallaje," or min
aret, the glory of A'gades. Having obtained a supply of water,
and quenched our thirst, to my great astonishment we proceed
ed to encamp at half past seven in the morning in one of these
shallow hollows ; and I learned that we were to stay here the
whole day tUl near sunset, in order to enter the town in the
dark. We were here met by two horsemen from A'gades (the son of
the kadhi and a companion), who, I suppose, had come out on
purpose to see us. They had a very chevaleresque look, and
proved highly interesting to me, as they were the first horsemen
I had seen in the country. The son of the kadhi, who was a
fine, tall man, was well dressed in a tobe and trowsers of silk
and cotton ; he earned only an iron spear besides his sword and
dagger, but no shield. But, for me, the most interesting part
of their attire was their stirrups, which are almost European in
shape, but made of copper. Of this metal were made also the
ornaments on the harness of their horses; their saddles also
were very unlike what I had yet seen in these countries, and
nearly the same as the old Arab saddle, which differs httle from
the English.
While encamped here I bought from Hamma a black Sudan
tobe, which, worn over another very large white tobe or shirt,
and covered with a white bernus, gave me an appearance more
suited to the country, while the stains of indigo soon made my
complexion a few shades darker. This exterior accommodation
to the custom of the natives my friend Hamma represented as
essential for securing the success of my undertaking; and it
had, besides, the advantage that it gave rise to the rumor that
the Sultan of A'gades himself had presented me with this dress.

A'GADES. 317
At length, when the sun was almost down, and when it was
known that the Kel-geres and Itisan (who had come to A'gades
in. very great numbers, in order to proceed on their journey to
Bilma after the investiture of the new sultan) had retreated from
their encampments at some distance from the town, we started,
and were soon met by several people, who came to pay their
compliments to my companions. On entering the town, we
passed through a half- deserted quarter, and at length reached
the house of A'nnur, where we were to take up our abode. But
arriving in a new place at night is never very pleasant, and must
be still less so where there are no lamps ; it therefore took us
some time to make ourselves tolerably comfortable. But I was
fortunate in receiving hospitable treatment from our traveling
companion 'Abd el Kader, who, being lodged in a chamber close
to mine, sent me a well-prepared dish of kuskusu, made of In
dian-corn. I could not relish the rice sent by one of A'nnur's
wives, who resides here, owing to its not being seasoned with
any salt, a practice to which I became afterward more accus
tomed, but which rather astonished me in a country the entire
trade of which consists in salt.
Having spread my mat and carpet on the floor, I slept well,
in the pleasing consciousness of having successfully reached this
first object of my desires, and dreaming of the new sphere of
inquiry on which I had entered.

CHAPTER XVII.
A'GADES.

. Early in the morning, the whole body of the people from
Tawat who were residing in the place, 'Abd el Kader at their
head, paid me a visit. The Tawatiye are still, at the present
time (like their forefathers more than 300 years ago), the chief
merchants in A'gades ; and they are well adapted to the nature
of this market, for, having but small means, and being more like

318 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
peddlers or retail dealers, they sit quietly down with their little
stock, and try to make the most of it by buying Negro minet
when it is cheap, and retailing it when it becomes dear. Spec
ulation in grain is now the principal business transacted in
A'gades, since the branches of commerce of which I shall speak
further on, and which once made the place rich and important,
have been diverted into other channels. Here I will only re
mark that it is rather curious that the inhabitants of Tawat,
though enterprising travelers, never become rich. Almost all
the money with which they trade belongs to the people of Gha
dames ; and their profits only allow them to dress and live well,
of which they are very fond. Till recently, the Kel-owi fre
quented the market of Tawat, while they were excluded from
those of Ghat and Murzuk ; but at present the contrary takes
place, and, while they are admitted in the two latter places, Ta
wat has been closed against them.
Several of these Tawatiye were about to return to their na
tive country, and were anxiously seeking information as to the
time when the caravan of the Sakomaren, which had come to
Tintellust, intended to start on their return-journey, as they
wished to go in their company. Among them was a man of
the name of 'Abdallah, with whom I became afterward very in
timate, and obtained from him a great deal of information. He
was well acquainted with that quarter of the African continent
which lies between Tawat, Timbuktu, and A'gades, having been
six times to A'gades and five times to Timbuktu, and was less
exacting than the mass of his countrymen. The most interest
ing circumstance which I learned from them to-day was the
identity of the Emgedesi language with that of Timbuktu— a
fact of which I had no previous idea, thinking that the Hausa
language, as it was the vulgar tongue of the whole of A'sben,
was the indigenous language of the natives of A'gades. Hut
about this most interesting fact I shall say more afterward.
When the Tawatiye were about to go away, A'magay, or
Maggi, as he is generally called, the chief eunuch of the sultan,
came, and I was ordered by my Kel-owi companions, who had
put on all their finery, to make myself ready to pay a visit to

THE SULTAN'S QUARTERS. 319
the sultan. Throwing, therefore, my white helali bernus over
my black tobe, and putting on my richly-ornamented Ghadamsi
shoes, which formed my greatest finery, I took up the letters
and the treaty, and solicited the aid of my servant Mohammed
to assist me in getting it signed ; but he refused to perform any
such service, regarding it as a very gracious act on his part that
he went with me at aU.
The streets and the market-places were still empty when we
went through them, which left upon me the impression of a de
serted place of by-gone times ; for even in the most important
and central quarters of the town most of the dwelling-houses
were in ruins. Some meat was lying ready for sale, and a bul
lock was tied to a stake, while numbers of large vultures, dis
tinguished by their long naked neck of reddish color and their
dirty-grayish plumage, were sitting on the pinnacles of the
crumbling waUs, ready to pounce upon any kind of offal.
These natural scavengers I afterward found to be the constant
inhabitants of all the market-places, not only in this town, but
in all the places in the interior. Directing our steps by the high
watch-tower, which, although built only of clay and wood, yet,
on account of its contrast to the low dwelling-houses around,
forms a conspicuous object, we reached the gate which leads
into the palace or fada, a small separate quarter with a large,
irregular court-yard, and from twenty to twenty-five larger and
smaller dweUings. Even these were partly in ruins, and one or
two wretched conical cottages, built of reeds and grass, in the
midst of them, showed any thing but a regard to cleanliness.
The house, however, in which the sultan himself dwelt proved
to have been recently repaired, and had a neat and orderly ap
pearance ; the wall was nicely polished, and the gate newly cov
ered in with boards made of the stem of the dtim-tree, and fur
nished with a door of the same material.
We seated ourselves apart, on the right side of the vestibule,
which, as is the case in all the houses of this place, is separated
from the rest of the room by a low balustrade about ten inches
high, and in this shape ^ . ^^^ . Meanwhile Maggi had

320

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

announced us to his majesty, and, coming back, conducted us
into the adjoining room, where he had taken his seat. It was
separated from the vestibule by a very heavy wooden door, and
was far more decent than I had expected. It was about forty
or fifty feet in every direction, the rather low roof being sup
ported by two short and massive columns of clay, sHghtly de

creasing in thickness toward the top, and furnished with a sim
ple abacus, over which one layer of large boards was placed in
the breadth and two in the depth of the room, sustaining the
roof formed of lighter boards. These are covered in with
branches, over which mats are spread, the whole being com
pleted with a layer of clay. At the lower end of the room, be
tween the two columns, was a heavy door giving access into
the interior of the house, while a large opening on either side
admitted the light.
'Abd el Kaderi, the son of the Sultan El Bakeri, was seated
between the column to the right and the wall, and appeared to
be a tolerably stout man, with large, benevolent features, as far
as the white shawl wound around his face would aUow us to
perceive. The white color of the litham, and that of his shirt,
wliich was of gray hue, together with his physiognomy, at once
announced him as not belonging to the Tawarek race. Having
saluted him one after another, we took our seats at some dis
tance opposite to him, when, after having asked Hamma some
complimentary questions with regard to the old chief, he called
me to come near to him, and in a very kind manner entered
into conversation with me, asking me about the English nation,
of which, notwithstanding all their power, he had, in his retired
spot, never before heard, not suspecting that " English powder"
was derived from them.

INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEF. 321
After explaining to him how the English, although placed at
such an immense distance, wished to enter into friendly relations
with aU the chiefs and great men on the earth, in order to estab
lish peaceable and legitimate intercourse with them, I delivered
to him A'nnur's and Mr. Richardson's letters, and begged him
to forward another letter to 'Aliyu, the Sultan of Sokoto, wherein
we apologized for our incapability, after the heavy losses and
the many extortions we had suffered, of paying him at present
a visit in his capital, expressing to 'Abd el Kader, at the same
time, how unjustly we had been treated by tribes subject to his
dominion, who had deprived us of nearly all the presents we
were bringing with us for himself and the other princes of Su
dan. WhUe expressing his indignation on this account, and
regretting that I should not be able to go on directly to Sokoto,
whither he would have sent me with the greatest safety in com
pany with the salt-caravan of the Kel-geres, and at the same
time giving vent to his astonishment that, although young, I
had already performed journeys so extensive, he dismissed us,
after we had placed before him the parcel containing the pres
ents destined for him. The whole conversation, not only with
me, but also with my companions, was in the Hausa language.
I should have liked to have broached to him the treaty at once,
but the moment was not favorable.
On the whole, I look upon 'Abd el Kader as a man of great
worth, though devoid of energy. All the people assured me
that he was the best of the family to which the Sultan of A'ga
des belongs. He had been already sultan before, but a few
years ago was deposed in order to make way for Hamed e' Ru-
fay, whom he again succeeded ; but in 1853, while I was in
Sokoto, he was once more compelled to resign in favor of the
former. While returning with my companions to our lodging, we met
six of Boro's sons, among whom our traveling companion Haj
Ah was distinguished for his elegance. They were going to the
palace in order to perform their office as " fadawa-n-serki" (roy
al courtiers), and were very complaisant when they were inform
ed that I had been graciously received by his majesty. Hav-
Vol.1.— X

322 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
ing heard from them that Boro, since his return, had been ill
with fever, I took the opportunity to induce my followers to ac
company me on a visit to him.
Mohammed Boro has a nice little house for a town Hke A'ga
des, situated on the small area called "Erarar-n-sakan," or "the
place of the young camels." It is shown in the accompanying
/>.,—* sketch. The house itself consists of two sto-
fflif!>~* ^ShI r*es' an^ ft1111^68 a g°0<I specimen of the bet-
,M|EMH|M£, ter houses of the town ; its interior was nicely
whitewashed. Boro, who was greatly pleased
with our visit, received us in a very friendly manner, and when
we left accompanied us a long way down the street. Though
he holds no office at present, he is nevertheless a very import
ant personage, not only in A'gades, but even in Sokoto, where
he is regarded as the wealthiest merchant. He has a little re
public of his own (like the venerable patriarchs) of not less than
about fifty sons with their families ; but he stiU possesses such
energy and enterprise, that in 1854 he was about to undertake
another pilgrimage to Mekka.
When I bad returned to my quarters, Maggi brought me, as
an acknowledgment of my presents, a fat, large-sized ram from
'Abd el Kader, which was an exceUent proof that good meat can
be got here. There is a place caUed Aghillad, three or four
days' journey west from A'gades,* which is said to be very rich
in cattle. On this occasion I gave to the influential eunuch,
for himself, an aliyafu or subeta — a white shawl with a red bor
der. In the afternoon I took another walk through the town,
first to the erarar-n-sakan, which, though it had been quiet in
the morning, exhibited now a busy scene, about fifty camels be
ing offered for sale, most of them very young, and the older ones
rather indifferent. But, while the character of the article for
sale could not be estimated very high, that of the men employ
ed in the business of the market attracted my full attention.
They were tall men with broad, coarse features, very differ-
* I am not quite sure with regard to this place, as I find a note in my memo
randum-book, " The name of the place in question is Ingal, on the road to So
koto, and not Aghillad."

MARKETS OF A'GADES. 323
ent from any I had seen before, and with long hair hanging down
upon their shoulders and over their face in a way which is an
abomination to the Tawarek ; but, upon inquiry, I learned that
they belonged to the tribe of Ighdalen or E'ghedel, a very cu
rious mixed tribe of Berber and Songhay blood, and speaking
the Songhay language. The mode of buying and selling, also,
was very peculiar ; for the price was neither fixed in doUars nor
in sheUs, but either in merchandise of various description, such
as calico, shawls, tobes, or in Negro miUet, which is the real
standard of the market of A'gades at the present time, while
during the period of its prime it was apparently the gold of
Gagho. This way of buying or selling is called "karba."
There was a very animated scene between two persons ; and to
settle the dispute, it was necessary to apply to the " serki-n-
kaswa," who for every camel sold in the market receives three
"rejel." From this place we went to the vegetable-market, or " kas-
wa-n-delelti,"* which was but poorly supplied, only cucumbers
and molukhia (or Corchorus olitorius) being procurable in con
siderable plenty. Passing thence to the butchers' market, we
found it very weU supplied, and giving proof that the town was
not yet quite deserted, although some strangers were just gath
ering for the instaUation of the sultan, as weU as for the cele
bration of the great holiday, the 'Aid el kebir, or SaUa-leja. I
wiU only observe that this market (from its name, " kaswa-n-
rakoma," or "yobu yoewoeni") seems evidently to have been
formerly the market where full-grown camels were sold. We
then went to the third market, called Katanga, where, in a sort
of hall supported by the stems of the dum-tree, about six or
seven women were exhibiting on a sort of frame a variety of
small things, such as beads and necklaces, sandals, small ob
long tin boxes such as the Kel-owi wear for carry
ing charms, small leather boxes of the shape here
represented, but of all possible sizes, from the diam
eter of an inch to as much as six inches. They are
very neatly made in different colors, and are used
* Delelti is not a Hausa word.

324 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
for tobacco, perfumes, and other purposes, and are called "bot-
ta." I saw here also a very nice plate of copper, which I want
ed to buy the next day, but found that it was sold. A donkey-
saddle, "akomar,"and a camel-saddle, or "kiri," were exposed
for sale. The name " Katanga" serves, I think, to explain the
name by which the former (now deserted) capital of Yoruba is
generally known, I mean Katunga, which name is given to it
only by the Hausa and other neighboring tribes.
I then went, with Mohammed " the Foolish" and another Kel-
owi, to a shoemaker who Hved in the southwestern quarter of
the town, and I was greatly surprised to find here Berbers as
artisans ; for even if the shoemaker was an A'mghi and not a
free Amoshagh (though, from his frank and noble bearing, I had
reason to suspect the latter), at least he understood scarcely a
word of Hausa, and all the conversation was carried on in TJra-
ghfye. He and his assistants were busy in making neat san
dals ; and a pair of very handsome ones, which, indeed, could
not be surpassed, either in neatness or in strength, by the best
that are made in Kano, were just ready, and formed the object
of a long and unsuccessful bargaining. The following day, how
ever, Mohammed succeeded in obtaining them for a mithkal.
My shoes formed a great object of curiosity for these Emgedesi
shoemakers, and they confessed their inability to produce any
thing like them.
On returning to our quarters we met several horsemen, with
whom I was obliged to enter into a longer conversation than I
liked in the streets. I now observed that several of them were
armed with tlie bow and arrow instead of the spear. Almost
aU the horses were dressed with the "karaurawa" (strings of
small bells attached to their heads), which make a great noise,
and sometimes create a belief that a great host is advancing,
when there are only a few of these horsemen. The horses in
general were in indifferent condition, though of tolerable size:,
of course, they are ill fed in a place where grain is comparatively
dear. The rider places only his great toe in the stirrup, the rest
of the foot remaining outside.
The occurrences of the day were of so varied a nature, open-

PIIW I

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VIEW OF THE TOWN. 327
ing to me a glance into an entirely new region of Hfe, that I had
ample material for my evening's meditation when I lay stretch
ed out on my mat before the door of my dark and close room.
Nor was my bodily comfort neglected, the sultan being so kind
and attentive as to send me a very palatable dish of "finkaso,"
a sort of thick pancake made of wheat, and well buttered, which,
after the unpalatable food I had had in Tintellust, appeared to
me the greatest luxury in the world.
Saturday, October 12th. Having thus obtained a glance into
the interior of the town, I was anxious to get a view of the whole
of it, and ascending, the following morning, the terrace of our
house, obtained my object entirely, the whole town being spread
out before my eyes, with the exception of the eastern quarter.
The town is built on a level, which is only interrupted by small
hiUs formed of rubbish, heaped up in the midst of it by the neg
ligence of the people. Excepting these, the Hne formed by the
flat-terraced houses is interrupted only by the MesaUaje (which
formed my basis for laying down the plan of the town), besides
about fifty or fifty-five dwelHngs raised to two stories, and by
three dum-trees and five or six talha-trees. Our house also had
been originaUy provided with an upper story, or, rather, with a
single garret — for generally the upper story consists of nothing
else ; but it had yielded to time, and only served to furnish
amusement to my foolish friend Mohammed, who never faUed,
when he found me on the terrace, to endeavor to throw me down
the breach. Our old close-handed friend A'nnur did not seem
to care much for the appearance of his palace in the town, and
kept his wife here on rather short allowance. By-and-by, as I
went every day to enjoy this panorama, I was able to make a
faithful view of the western quarter of the town as seen from
hence, which wUl give the reader a more exact idea of the place
than any verbal description could do.
About noon the amanokal sent his musicians to honor me and
my companions with a performance ; they were four or five in
number, and were provided with the instruments usual in Su
dan, in imitation of the Arabs. More interesting was the per
formance of a single " maimolo," who visited us after we had

328 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
honorably rewarded the royal musicians, and accompanied his
play on a three-stringed " molo" or guitar with an extempora
neous song.
My companions then took me to the house of the kadhi after
having paid a short visit to the camel-market. The kadhi, or
here rather alkali, who lives a little southwest from the mosque,
in a house entirely detached on all sides, was sitting with the
mufti in the vestibule of his dweUing, where sentence is pro
nounced, and, after a few compliments, proceeded to hear the
case of my companions, who had a lawsuit against a native of
the town named Wa-n-seres, and evidently of Berber origin.
Evidence was adduced to the effect that he had sold a she-camel
which had been stolen from the Kel-owi, while he (the defend
ant), on his part, proved that he had bought it from a man who
swore that it was not a stolen camel. The pleas of both parties
having been heard, the judge decided in favor of Wa-n-seres.
The whole transaction was carried on in Temashight, or, rather,
in Uraghiye. Then came another party, and, whUe their case
was being heard, we went out and sat down in front of the house,
under the shade of a sort of verandah, consisting of mats sup
ported by long stakes, after which we' took leave of the kadhi,
who did not seem to relish my presence, and afterward showed
no very friendly feelings toward me.
WhUe my lazy companions wanted to go home, I fortunately
persuaded Mohammed, after much reluctance, to accompany me
through the southern part of the town, where, lonely and desert
ed as it seemed to be, it was not prudent for me to go alone, as
I might have easily got into some difficulty. My servant Aman-
kay was still quite lame with the Guinea-worm ; and Moham
med, the Tunisian shushan,had reached such a pitch of insolence
when he saw me alone among a fanatical population that I had
given him up entirely.
First, leaving the fada to our right, we went through the
" kofa-n-Alkali ;" for here the waUs, which have been swept
away entirely on the east side of the town, have stiU preserved
some degree of elevation, though in many places one may easily
climb over them. On issuing from the gate, I was struck with

INTERIOR OF A'GADES. 329
the desolate character of the country on this side of the town,
though it was enlivened by women and slaves going to fetch
water from the principal well (which is distant about half a mile
from the gate), aU the water inside the town being of bad qual
ity for drinking. At some distance from the gate were the ru
ins of an extensive suburb called Ben Gottara, half covered with
sand, and presenting a very sorry spectacle. It was my design
to go round the southern part of the town ; but my companion
either was, or pretended to be, too much afraid of the Kel-geres,
whose encampment lay at no great distance from the walls. So
we re-entered it, and foUowed the northern border of its deserted
southern quarter, where only a few houses are stiU inhabited.
Here I found three considerable pools of stagnant water, which
had coUected in deep hollows, from whence, probably, the mate
rials for building had been taken, though their form was a tol
erably regular oval. They had each a separate name, the west
ernmost being caUed from the Masrata, who have given their
name to the whole western quarter, as well as to a small gate
stiU in existence ; the next, southward from the kofa-n-Alkali,
is caUed (in Emgedesiye) " Masrata-hogu-me," for the three
languages — the Temashight or Tarkiye, the Gober or Hausa
language, and the Songhay- or Sonrhay-kini — are very curious
ly mixed together in the topography of this town, the natural
consequence of the mixture of these three different national el
ements. This mixture of languages was well calculated to make
the office of interpreter in this place very important, and the
class of such men a very numerous one.
In the Masrata pool, which is the largest of the three, two
horses were swimming, whUe women were busy washing clothes.
The water has a strong taste of salt, which is also the case with
two of the three wells stiU in use within the town. Keeping
from the easternmost pool (which is caUed, like the whole quar
ter around, Terjemane, from the interpreters, whose dweUings
were chiefly hereabout) a little more to the southeast, I was
greatly pleased at finding among the ruins in the southeastern
quarter, between the quarters of Akafan arina and Imurdan,
some very well built and neatly-polished houses, the walls of

330 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
which were of so excellent workmanship that, even after haying
been deprived of their roofs for many years, perhaps, they had
sustained scarcely any injury. One of them was furnished
with ornamental niches, and by the remains of pipes, and the
whole arrangement, bore evident traces of warm baths.
Music and song diverted us in the evening, whUe we rested
on our mats in the different corners of our court-yard.
Sunday, October 13th. My Kel-owi companions regaled me
with a string of dates from Fashi, the westernmost oasis of the
Tebu, or, as the Tawarek call them, Berauni. But, instead of
indulging myself in this luxury, I laid it carefuUy aside as a
treat for my visitors, to whom I had (so small were my means
at present) neither coffee nor sugar to offer. I then accompa
nied my friends once more to the Alkali ; but the litigation which
was going on being tedious, I left them, and returned, quite
alone through the town, sitting down a moment with the Ta
watiye, who generally met at the house of the Emgedesi I'dder,
a sort of Tawati agent, and an intelligent man.
When I returned to our house I found there a very interest
ing young man of the tribe of the I'ghdalen, with a round face,
very regular and agreeable features, fine, lively black eyes, and
an olive complexion only a few shades darker than that of an
Italian peasant. His hair was black, and about four inches
long, standing upright, but cut away aU round the ears, which
gave it a still more bristling appearance. I hoped to see him
again, but lost sight of him entirely. The Arabs caU these peo
ple Arab-Tawarek, indicating that they are a mixed race be
tween the Arab and Berber nation, and their complexion agrees
weU with this designation, but it is remarkable that they speak
a Songhay dialect. They possess scarcely any thing except
camels, and are regarded as a kind of Merabetin.
I afterward went to call upon our old friend A'nnur Karami
from Aghwau, who had come to A'gades a day or two before us,
and had accompanied me also on my visit to the sultan. He
lived, together with my amiable young friend, the Tinylkum SH
man, in the upper story, or soro of a house, and, when I eaUed,
was very busy selling fine Egyptian sheep-leather called kurna

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.

331

(which is in great request here, particularly that of a green col
or) to a number of lively females, who are the chief artisans in
leather-work. Some of them were of tolerably good appear
ance, with light complexion and regular Arab features. When
the women were gone, A'nnur treated me with fura or ghussub-
water, and young SHman, who felt some little remorse for not
having been able to withstand the charms of the Emgedesiye
coquettes, told me that he was about to marry a ma-A'sbenchi*
girl, and that the wedding would be celebrated in a few days.
As to the fura, people who eat, or rather drink it, together,
squat down round the bowl, where a large spoon, the " ludde,"
sometimes very neatly worked, goes round, every body taking
a spoonful and passing the spoon to his neighbor. Subjoined
is a drawing of this drinking-spoon as well as of the common
spoon, both of ordinary workmanship.

The houses in A'gades do not possess all the convenience
which one would expect to find in houses in the north of Eu
rope ; but here, as in many Italian towns, the principle of the
"da per tutto," which astonished Gothe so much at Rivoli on
* It is remarkable that while ba in the Hausa language expresses the mascu
line in the composition of national names, ma originally served to denote the fe-
male; but the latter form seems to be almost lost.

332 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the Lago di Garda, is in full force, being greatly assisted by the
many ruined houses which are to be found in every quarter of
the town. But the free nomadic inhabitant of the wilderness
does not like this custom, and rather chooses to retreat into the
open spots outside the town. The insecurity of the country,
and the feuds generally raging, oblige them stiU to congregate,
even on such occasions. When they reach some conspicuous
tree, the spears are all stuck into the ground, and the party sep
arates behind the bushes ; after which they again meet together
under the tree, and return in solemn procession into the town.
By making such little excursions I became acquainted with
the shallow depressions which surround A'gades, and which are
not without importance for the general relations of the town,
while they afford fodder for any caravan .visiting the market,
and also supply the inhabitants with very good water. The
name of the depression to the N. is Tagfirast ; that to the S. W.,
Mermeru ; toward the S.E., Ameluli, with a few kitchen-gar
dens ; and another a little farther on, S.S.E., Tesak-n-talle,
while at a greater distance, to the W., is Tara-bere* (meaning
" the wide area" or plain, " baba-n-sarari"). Unfortunately, the
dread my companions had of the Kel-geres did not aUow me to
visit the valleys at a greater distance, the principal of which is
that called El Hakhsas, inhabited by Imghad, and famous for
its vegetable productions, with which the whole town is sup
plied. Mohammed the Foolish succeeded in the evening in getting
me into some trouble, which gave him great delight ; for, seeing
that I took more than common interest in a national dance, ac
companied with a song, which was going on at some distance
E.N.E. from our house, he assured me that Hamma was there,
and had told him that I might go and join in their amusement.
Unfortunately, I was too easily induced ; and hanging only a
cutlass over my shoulder, I went thither unaccompanied, sure
of finding my protector in the merry crowd. It was about ten
o'clock at night, the moon shining very brightly on the. scene.
* I will here only observe that " bere" is one of those words in the Songhay
language which shows its connection with Sanscrit.

A MISADVENTURE. 333
Having first viewed it from some distance, I approached very
near, in order to observe the motions of the dancers. Four
young men, placed opposite to each other in pairs, were dancing
with warlike motions, and, stamping the ground violently with
the left foot, turned round in a circle, the motions being accom
panied by the energetic clapping of hands of a numerous ring
of spectators. It was a very interesting sight, and I should
have liked to stay longer ; but, finding that Hamma was not
present, and that aU the people were young, and many of them
buzawe, I followed the advice of 'Abdu, one of A'nnur's slaves,
who was among the crowd, to withdraw as soon as possible. I
had, however, retraced my steps but a short way, when, with
the war-cry of Islam, and drawing their swords, all the young
men rushed after me. Being, however, a short distance in ad
vance, and fortunately not meeting with any one in the narrow
street, I reached our house without being obliged to make use
of my weapon ; but my friends the Kel-owi seeing me in trouble,
had tlirown the chain over the door of our house, and, with a
malicious laugh, left me outside with my pursuers, so that I was
obliged to draw my cutlass in order to keep them at bay, though,
if they had made a serious attack, I should have fared ill enough
with my short, blunt European weapon against their long, sharp
swords. I was rather angry with my barbarous companions, particu
larly with Mohammed ; and when, after a little delay, they open
ed the door, I loaded my pistol and threatened to shoot the first
man that troubled me. However, I soon felt convinced that the
chief fault was my own ; and, in order to obliterate the bad im
pression which this Httle adventure was likely to make in the
town, particularly as the great Mohammedan feast was at hand,
which, of course, could not but strengthen greatly the prejudice
against a Christian, I resolved to stay at home the next few
days. This I could do the more easily, as the terrace of our
house allowed me to observe all that was going on in the place.
I therefore applied myself entirely for a few days to the study
of the several routes which, with the assistance of 'Abdalla, I
had been able to collect from different people, and which will be

334 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
given in the Appendix, and to the language of A'gades ; for,
though I had left all my books behind at Tintellust, except
that volume of " Prichard's Researches" which treats of Africa,
I had convinced myself, from the specimens which he gives of
the language of Timbuktu, that the statement of my friends
from Tawat with regard to the identity of the languages of the
two places was quite correct — only with this qualification, that
here this language had been greatly influenced by intercourse
with the Berbers, from whom sundry words were borrowed,
wlrile the Arabic seemed to have had little influence beyond
supplanting the numerals from four upward. I was also most
agreeably surprised and gratified to find this identity confirmed
by the fact that the people of A'gades give the Tawarek in gen
eral the name under which that tribe of them which lives near
Timbuktu and along the Niger had become known to Mungo
Park in those quarters where the language of Timbuktu is
spoken. This was indeed very satisfactory, as the native name
of that powerful tribe is entirely different ; for the Surka, as
they are called by Mungo Park, are the same as the Awelim-
miden, of whom I had already heard so much in Asben (the in
habitants of which country seemed to regard them with much
dread), and with whom I was afterward to enter into the most
intimate relations.
While residing in A'gades, I was not yet aware of all the
points of information which I have been able to collect in the
course of my travels ; and I was at a loss to account for the
identity of language in places so widely separated from each
other by immense tracts of desert, and by countries which seem
ed to have been occupied by different races. But while endeav
oring, in the further course of my journey, to discover as far as
possible the history of the nations with whom I bad to deal, I
found the clew for explaining this apparently marvelous phe
nomenon, and shall lay it before my readers in the foUowing
chapter. To the Tawati 'Abdalla I was indebted for information on a
variety of interesting matters, which I found afterward confirm
ed in every respect. In a few points his statements were sub-

LANGUAGE OF A'GADES. 335
ject to correction, and stUl more to improvement ; but in no
single case did I find that he had deviated from the truth. I
state this deliberately, in order to show that care must be taken
to distinguish between information collected systematically by
a native enjoying the entire confidence of his informant, and
who, from his knowledge of the language and the subject about
which he inquires, is able to control his informant's statements,
and that which is picked up incidentally by one who scarcely
knows what he asks.
But to return to my diary : the visits paid me by the other
people of Tawat became less frequent, as I had no coffee to treat
them with ; but I was rather glad of this circumstance, as my
time was too short for laboring in that wide field of new infor
mation which opened before me, and it was necessary to confine
myself at present to narrower limits. In this respect I was ex
tremely fortunate in having obeyed my impulse to visit this
place, which, however desolate it may appear to the traveler who
first enters it, is still the centre of a large circle of commercial
intercourse, whUe Tintellust is nothing but a smaU village, im
portant merely from the character of the chief who resides in it,
and where even those people who know a little about the coun
try are afraid to communicate that very little. I would advise
any traveler, who should hereafter visit this country, to make a
long stay in this place, if he can manage to do so in comfort ;
for I am sure that there stUl remains to be collected in A'gades
a store of the most valuable and interesting information.
In the afternoon of the 15th of October (the eve of the great
holiday), ten chiefs of the Kel-geres, on horseback, entered the
town, and toward evening news was brought that Astafidet, the
chief of the Kel-owi residing in A'sodi, was not far off, and
would make his solemn entry early in the morning. My compan
ions, therefore, were extremely busy in getting ready and clean
ing their holiday dress or " yado ;" and Hamma could not pro
cure tassels enough to adorn his high red cap, in order to give to
his short figure a little more height. Poor fellow ! he was really
a good man, and one of the best of the Kel-owi ; and the news of
his being kiUed in the sanguinary battle which was fought be-

336 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
tween his tribe and the Kel-geres, in 1854 grieved me not a ht
tle. In the evening there was singing , and dancing ("wargi"
and " wasa") all over the town, and all the people were merry
except the followers of Makita or I'mkiten, "the Pretender;"
and the Sultan 'Abd el Kader was obliged to imprison three
chiefs of the Itisan, who had come to urge Makita's claims.
It was on this occasion that I learned that the mighty King
of A'gades had not only a common prison, " gida-n-damre,"
wherein he might confine the most haughty chiefs, but that he
even exercised over them the power of life and death, and that he
dispensed the favors of a terrible dungeon bristling with swords
and spears standing upright, upon which he was authorized to
throw any distinguished malefactor. This latter statement, of
the truth of which I had some doubt, was afterward confirmed
to me by the old chief A'nnur. In any case, however, such a
cruel punishment can not but be extremely rare.
Wednesday, October 16th. The 10th of Dhu el kadhi, 1266,
was the first day of the great festival 'Aid el kebir, or SaUa-leja
(the feast of the sacrifice of the sheep), which, in these regions,
is the greatest holiday of the Mohammedans, and was, in this
instance, to have a peculiar importance and solemnity for
A'gades, as the installation of 'Abd el Kader, who had not yet
publicly assumed the government, was to take place the same
day. Early in the morning, before daylight, Hamma and his
companions left the house and mounted their camels, in order to
pay their compliments to Astafidet, and join him in his proces
sion ; and about sunrise the young chief entered and went di
rectly to the " fada," at the head of from two hundred to three
hundred Mehara, having left the greater number of his troop,
which was said to amount to about two thousand men, outside
the town.
Then, without much ceremony or delay, the installation or
"sarauta" of the new sultan took place. The ceremonial was
gone through inside the fada; but this was the procedure.
First of all, 'Abd el Kader was conducted from his private
apartments to the public hall. Then the chiefs of the Itisan
and Kel-geres, who went in front, begged him to sit down upon

THE CEREMONY OF INVESTITURE 337
the "gado," a sort of couch or divan made of the leaves of the
palm-tree, or of the branches of other trees, similar to the anga-
rib used in Egypt and the lands of the Upper Nile, and cover
ed with mats and a carpet. Upon this the new sultan sat
down, resting his feet on the ground, not being allowed to put
them upon the gado, and recline in the Oriental style, until the
Kel-owi desired him to do so. Such is the ceremony, symbol
ical of the combined participation of these different tribes in the
investiture of their sultan.
This ceremony being concluded, the whole holiday-procession
left the palace on its way to a chapel of a merabet called Sidi
Hammada, in Tara-bere, outside the town, where, according to
an old custom, the prince was to say his prayers. This is a
rule prevaUing over the whole of Mohammedan Africa, and one
which I myself witnessed in some of the most important of its
capitals — in A'gades, in Kukawa, in Mas-ena, in Sokoto, and in
Timbuktu ; every where the principle is the same.
Not deeming it prudent on such an occasion to mix with the
people, I witnessed the whole procession from the terrace of our
house, though I should have liked to have had a nearer view.
The procession having taken its course through the most impor
tant quarter of the town, and through the market-places, turned
round from the " kaswa-n-delelti" to the oldest quarter of the
town, and then returned westward, till at last it reached the
above-mentioned chapel or tomb of Sidi Hammada, where there
is a small cemetery. The prayers being finished, the proces
sion returned by the southern part of the town, and about ten
o clock the different parties which had composed the cortege sep
arated. In going as weU as in returning, the order of the procession
was as follows. In front of all, accompanied by musicians, rode
; the sultan on a very handsome horse of Tawati breed,* wearing,
over his fine Sudan robe of colored cotton and silk, the blue
: Demus I had presented to him, and wearing on his side a hand
some cimeter with gold handle. Next to him rode the two sa-
Ine horse of Tawat is as celebrated among the Berber tribes of the desert
as the I'manang woman or " the wealth of Tunis."
Vol. I._y

338 TRAVELS IN AERICA.
raki-n-turawa — Boro, the ex-serki, on his left, and Ashu, who
held the office at the time, on his right — followed by the "fada-
wa-n-serki," after whom came the chiefs of the Itisan and Kel-
geres, all on horseback, in full dress and armor, with their swords,
daggers, long spears, and immense shields.
Then came the longer train of the Kel-owi, mostly on mehara,
or swift camels, with Sultan Astafidet at their head ; and last
of all followed the people of the town, a few on horseback, but
most of them on foot, and armed with swords and spears,
and several with bows and arrows. The people were all dress
ed in their greatest finery, and it would have formed a good
subject for an artist. It recalled the martial processions of
the Middle Ages — the more so, as the high caps of the Tawa
rek,* surrounded by a profusion of tassels on every side, to
gether with the black " tesilgemist" or litham, which covers the
whole face, leaving nothing but the eyes visible, and the shawls
wound over this and round the cap combine to imitate the shape
of the helmet, while the black and colored tobes (over which, on
such occasions, the principal people wear a red bernus thrown
across their shoulders) represent very well the heavier dress of
the knights of yore. I will only add, that the fact of the sul
tan wearing on so important and solemn an occasion a robe
which had been presented to him by a stranger and a Christian,
had a powerful influence on the tribes collected here, and spread
a beneficial report far westward over the desert.
Shortly after the procession was over, the friendly Haj 'Abdu
wa, who, after he had parted from us in Eghellal, had attached
himself to the troop of Astafidet, came to pay me a visit. He
was now tolerably free from fever, but begged for some Epsom
salts, besides a little gunpowder. He informed me that there
was much sickness in the town, that from two to three people
died daily, and that even Astafidet was suffering from the prev
alent disease. This was the small-pox, a very fatal disease in
Central Africa, against which, however, several of the native pa
gan tribes secure themselves by inoculation, a precaution from
* These red caps, however, are an article quite foreign to the original dress
of the Tarki, and are obnoxious to the tribes of pure blood.

A DIVAN. 339
which Mohammedans are withheld by religious prejudice. I
then received a visit from the sons of Boro in their official char
acter as "fadawa-n-serki." They wished to inform themselves,
apparently, with reference to my adventure the other night,
whether the townspeople behaved well toward me ; and I was
prudent enough to tell them that I had nothing to complain of,
my alarm having been the consequence of my own imprudence.
In fact, the people behaved remarkably well, considering that I
was the first Christian that ever visited the town ; and the little
explosions of fanaticism into which the women and children
sometimes broke out, when they saw me on our terrace, rather
amused me. During the first days of my residence in A'gades,
they most probably took me for a pagan or a polytheist, and
cried after me the confessional words of Islam, laying all the
stress upon the word Allah, "the One God ;" but, after a few
days, when they had learned that I likewise worshiped the De
ity, they began to emphasize the name of their Prophet.
There was held about sunset a grave and well-attended divan
of all the chiefs, to consult with respect to a "yaki" or "ege-
hen," a ghazzia to be undertaken against the Meharebin or free
booters of the AweHmmiden. While we were still in Tintellust,
the rumor had spread of an expedition undertaken by the latter
tribe against Air, and the people were all greatly excited. For
the poor Kel-owi, who have degenerated from their original vig
or and warlike spirit by their intermixture with the black pop
ulation and 'by their peaceable pursuits, are not less afraid of
the Awelimmiden than they are of the Kel-geres ; and old A'n
nur himself used to give me a dreadful description of that tribe,
at which I afterward often laughed heartily with the very peo
ple whom he intended to depict to me as monsters. By way
of consoling us for the losses we had sustained, and the ill treat
ment we had experienced from the people of Air, he told us that
among the Awelimmiden we should have been exposed to far
greater hardships, as they would not have hesitated to cut the
tent over our heads into pieces, in order to make shirts of it. The
old chief's serious speeches had afterward the more comical ef
fect upon me, as the tent alluded to, a common English marquee,

340

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

mended as it was with cotton strips of all the various fashions
of Negroland, constantly formed a subject of the most lively sci
entific dispute among those barbarians, who, not having seen
linen before, were at a loss to make out of what stuff it was orig
inaUy made. But, unluckily, I had not among the Kel-owi
such a steadfast protector and mediator and so sensible a friend
as I had when, three years later, I went among the Awelimmi
den, who would certainly have treated me in another way if I
had fallen into their hands unprotected.
The old and lurking hostility among the Kel-owi and Kel-
igeres, which was at this very moment threatening an outbreak,
had been smoothed down by the influential and inteUigent chief
Sidi Ghalli el Haj A'nnur (properly E' Nur), one of the first men
in A'gades ; and those tribes had sworn to forget their private
animosities, in order to defend themselves against and revenge
themselves upon their common enemy, the Awelimmiden.
Hamma was very anxious to get from me a good supply of
powder for Sidi Ghalli, who was to be the leader of the expedi
tion ; but I had scarcely any with me.
While I was reclining in the evening rather mournfully upon
my mat, not having been out of the house these last few days,
the old friendly blacksmith came up and invited me to a prom
enade, and with the greatest pleasure I acceded to the proposal.
We left the town by the eastern side, the moon shining bright
ly, and throwing her magic light over the ruins of this once-
wealthy abode of commerce. Turning then a little south, we
wandered over the pebbly plain till the voices heard from the
encampment of the Kel-geres frightened my companion, and we
turned more northward to the wells in Ameluli ; having rested
here a while, we returned to our quarters.
Thursday, October 11th. A'nnur karami, our amiable and
indolent attendant, left this place for Tintellust with a note
which I wrote to my colleagues, informing them of my safe ar
rival, my gracious reception, and the general character of the
place. To-day the whole town was in agitation in consequence
of one of those characteristic events which, in a place like A'ga
des, serve to mark the different periods of the year ; for here a

ON ROCK-INSCRIPTIONS. 341
man can do nothing singly, but all must act together. The
salt-caravan of the Itisan and Kel-geres had collected, mustering,
I was told, not less than ten thousand camels, and had en
camped in Mermeru and Tesak-n-tallem, ready to start for the
salt-mines of BUma, along a road which will be indicated fur
ther on. However exaggerated the number of the camels might
be, it was certainly a very large caravan ; and a great many of
the inhabitants went out to settle their little business with the
men, and take leave of their friends. Ghambelu, the chief of
the Itisan, very often himself accompanies this expedition, in
which also many of the Tagama take a part.
In the course of the day I had a rathef curious conversation
with a man from Tafidet, the native place of Haj 'Abduwa.
After exchanging compliments with me, he asked me, abruptly,
whether I always knew where water was to be found ; and when
I told him that, though I could not exactly say in every case at
what depth water was to be found, yet that, from the configu
ration of the ground, I should be able to tell the spot where it
was most likely to be met with, he asked whether I had seen
rock-inscriptions on the road from Ghat ; and I answered him
that I had, and generally near watering-places. He then told
me that I was quite right, but that in Tafidet there were many
inscriptions upon the rocks at a distance from water. I told
him that perhaps at an earlier period water might have been
found there, or that the inscriptions might have been made by
shepherds ; but this he thought very improbable, and persisted
in his opinion that these inscriptions indicated ancient sepul
chres, in which, probably, treasures were concealed. I was
rather surprised at the philosophical conclusions at which this
barbarian had arrived, and conjectured, as was really the case,
that he.had accompanied Haj 'Abduwa on his pilgrimage and on
his passage through Egypt, and had there learned to make some
archasological observations. He affected to believe that I was
able to read the inscriptions, and tell all about the treasures ;
but I assured him that, whUe he was partially right with regard
to the inscriptions, he was quite wrong so far as regarded the
treasures, as these rock-inscriptions, so far as I was able to de-

342 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
cipher them, indicated only names. But I was rather sorry that
I did not myself see the inscriptions of which this man spoke,
as I had heard many reports about them, which had excited my
curiosity, and I had even sent the little Fezzani Faki Makhluk
expressly to copy them, who, however, brought me back only an
illegible scrawl.
Friday, October 18th. The last day of the Salla-leja was a
merry day for the lower class of the inhabitants, but a serious
one for the men of influence and authority ; and many councils
were held, one of them in my room. I then received a visit
from a sister's son of the sultan, whose name was Alkali, a taU,
gentlemanlike man, wRo asked me why I did not yet leave A'ga- ]
des and return to Tintellust. It seemed that he suspected me
of waiting till the sultan had made me a present in return for -
that received by him ; but I told him that, though I wished
'Abd el Kader to write me a letter for my sultan, which would "
guarantee the safety of some future traveler belonging to our
tribe, I had no further business here, but was only waiting for r
Hamma, who had not yet finished his bartering for provisions. i
He had seen me sketching on the terrace, and was somewhat
inquisitive about what I had been doing there ; but I succeeded :
in directing his attention to the wonderful powers of the pencil,
with which he became so delighted, that, when I gave him one, ; -
he begged another from me, in order that they might suffice for
his lifetime. ;
Interesting also was the visit of Haj Beshir, the wealthy man i; •
of Iferwan, whom I have already mentioned repeatedly, and who :, :
is an important personage in the country of Air. Unfortunate
ly, instead of using his influence to facilitate our entrance into •- -.
the country, his son had been among the chief leaders of the ex- :
pedition aganist us. Though not young, he was lively and so
cial, and asked me whether I should not like to marry some .
nice Emgedesiye girl. When he was gone I took a long walk } ,
through the town with Hamma, who was somewhat more com- ¦
municative to-day than usual ; but his intelligence was not equal
to his energy and personal courage, which had been proved in ,. ,.
many a battle. He had been often wounded ; and having in , ,

VISIT FROM MOHAMMED BOTtO. 343
the last skirmish received a deep cut on his head, he had made
an enormous charm, which was generaUy believed to guarantee
him from any further wound ; and, in fact, if the charm were to
receive the blow, it would not be altogether useless, for it was
a thick book. But his destiny was written.
There was a rather amusing episode in the incidents of the
day. The ex-sultan Hamed e' Rufay, who had left many debts
behind him, sent ten camel-loads of provisions and merchandise
to be divided among his creditors ; but a few Tawarek to whom
he owed something seized the whole, so that the other poor peo
ple never obtained a farthing. To-day the great salt-caravan
of the Kel-geres and Itisan really started.
Saturday, October 19th. Hamma and his companions were
summoned to a council which was to decide definitively in what
quarter the arm of justice, now raised in wrath, was to strike
the first blow, and it was resolved that the expedition should
first punish the Imghad, the Ikazkezan, and Fade-angh. The
officer who made the proclamation through the town was pro
vided with a very rude sort of drum, which was, in fact, nothing
but an old barrel covered with a skin.
Sunday, October 20th. The most important event in the
course of the day was a visit which I received from Mohammed
Boro, our traveling companion from Murzuk, with his sons. It
was the best proof of his noble character that, before we sep
arated, perhaps never to meet again, he came to speak with
me, and to explain our mutual relations fairly. He certainly
could not deny that he had been extremely angry with us, and
I could not condemn him on this account, for he had been treat
ed ignominiously. While Mr. Gagliuffi told him that we were
persuaded that the whole success of our proceedings lay in his
hands, he had been plainly given to understand that we set
very little value on his services. Besides, he had sustained
some heavy losses on the journey, and, by waiting for us, had
consumed the provisions which he had got ready for the march.
Although an old man, he was first going with the expedition,
after which he intended accompanying the caravan of the Kel-
geres to Sokoto with his whole family, for Sokoto is his real

344 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
home. The salt-caravan and the company of this man offered
a splendid opportunity for reaching that place in safety and by
the most direct road, but our means did not allow of such a
journey, and, after all, it was better, at least for myself, that it
was not undertaken, since, as matters went, it was reserved for
me, before I traced my steps toward the western regions, to dis
cover the upper navigable course of the eastern branch of the •
so-called Niger, and make sundry other important discoveries.
Nevertheless, Boro expressed his hope of seeing me again in So
koto, and his wish might easily have been accomplished. He
certainly must have been, when in the vigor of life, a man, in
the fuU sense of the word, and well deserved the praise of the
Emgedesiye, who have a popular song beginning with the words
" A'gades has no men but Boro and Dahammi." I now also
became aware why he had many enemies in Murzuk, who un
fortunately succeeded in making Gagliuffi believe that he had
no authority whatever in his own country ; for as serki-n-tura
wa he had to levy the tax of ten mithkals on every camel-load
of merchandise, and this he is said to have done with some de
gree of severity. After a long conversation on the steps of the
terrace, we parted the best possible friends.
Not so pleasant to me, though not without interest, was the
visit of another great man — Belroji, the tamberi or war-chieftain
of the Igholar Im-esaghlar. He was still in his prime, but my
Kel-owi (who were always wrangling like children) got up a
desperate fight with him in my very room, which was soon fill
ed with clouds of dust ; and the young SHman entering during
the row, and joining in it, it became really frightful. The Kel-
owi were just like children : when they went out they never
failed to put on all their finery, which they threw off as soon as
they came within doors, resuming their old dirty clothes.
It was my custom in the afternoon, when the sun had set be
hind the opposite buildings, to walk up and down in front of
our house, and while so doing to-day I had a long conversation
with two chiefs of the Itisan on horseback, who came to see me,
and avowed their sincere friendship and regard. They were
fine, tall men, but rather slim, with a noble expression of coun-

TAILELT TOBES.— A'SHU'S GARDEN. 345
tenance, and of light color. Their dress was simple, but hand
some, and arranged with great care. All the Tawarek, from
Ghat as far as Hausa, and from Alakkos to Timbuktu, are pas
sionately fond of the tobes and trowsers called "tailelt" (the
Guinea-fowl), or " filfil" (the pepper), on account of their speck
led color. They, are made of silk and cotton interwoven,* and
look very neat. The lowest part of the trowsers, which forms
a narrow band about two inches broad, closing rather tightly, is
embroidered in different colors. None of the Tawarek of pure
blood would, I think, degrade themselves by wearing on their
head the red cap.
Monday, October 21st. Early in the morning I went with
Hamma to take leave of the sultan, who had been too busy for
some days to favor me with an audience ; and I urged my friend
to speak of the treaty, though I was myself fully aware of the
great difficulty which so complicated a paper, written in a form
entirely unknown to the natives, and which must naturally be
expected to awaken their suspicion, would create, and of the
great improbabriity of its being signed while the sultan was
pressed with a variety of business. On the way to the fada we
met A'shu, the present serki-n-turawa, a large-sized man, clad
in an entirely white dress, which may not improbably be a sign
of his authority over the white men (Turawaj). He is said to
be a very wealthy man. He replied to* my compliments with
much kindness, and entered into conversation with me about
the difference of our country and theirs, and ordered one of his
companions to take me to a smaU garden which he had planted
near his house in the midst of the town, in order to see what
plants we had in common with them. Of course, there was
nothing like our plants ; and my cicerone conceived rather a
poor idea of our country when he heard that all the things which
they had we had not — neither senna, nor bamia, nor indigo, nor
cotton, nor Guinea-corn, nor, in short, the most beautiful of all
* I have brought home a specimen of these tobes, among various others. The
tailelt was my common dress during all the latter part of my journey. A repre
sentation of its distinguishing ornaments will be given farther on.
t Who these Turawa are I shall explain farther on.

346 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
trees of the creation, as he thought, the talha, or Mimosa fer-
ruginea ; and he seemed rather incredulous when told that we
had much finer plants than they.
We then went to the fada. The sultan seemed quite ready
for starting. He was sitting in the court-yard of his palace,
surrounded by a multitude of people and camels, while the loud
murmuring noise of a number of schoolboys who were learning
the Kuran proceeded from the opposite corner, and prevented
my hearing the conversation of the people. The crowd and the
open locality were, of course, not very favorable to my last au
dience, and it was necessarily a cold one. Supported by Ham
ma, I informed the sultan that I expected still to receive a letter
from him to the government under whose auspices I was trav
eling, expressive of the pleasure and satisfaction he had felt in
being honored with a visit from one of the mission, and that he
would gladly grant protection to any future traveler who should
happen to visit his country. The sultan promised that such a
letter should be written ; however, the result proved that either
he had not quite understood what I meant, or, what is more
probable, that in his precarious situation he felt himself not
justified in writing to a Christian government, especially as he
had received no letter from it.
When I had returned to my quarters, Hamma brought me
three letters, in which "Abd el Kader recommended my person
and my luggage to the care of the governors of Kano, Katsena,
and Daura, and which were written in rather incorrect Arabic,
and in nearly the same terms. They were as follows :
"In the name of God, &c.
" From the Emir of Ahir,* 'Abd el Kader, son of the Sultan Mohammed el
Bakeri, to the Emir of Daura, son of the late Emir of Daura, Is-hhak. The
mercy of God upon the eldest companions of the Prophet, and his blessing upon
the Khalifa ; ' Amin.' The most lasting blessing and the highest well-being to
you without end. I send this message to you with regard to a stranger, my
guest, of the name of 'Abd el Kerim, f who came to me, and is going to the Emir
* Here also the name of the country is written with an h — v I — as is al
ways done by the Arabs (see what I have said above).
t 'Abd el Kerim was the name I adopted from the beginning as my traveling
name.

LETTERS FROM THE SULTAN. 347
el Mumenin [the Sultan of Sokoto], in order that, when he proceeds to you, you
may protect him and treat him well, so that none of the freebooters and evildo
ers* may hurt him or his property, but that he may reach the Emir el Mumenin.
Indeed, we wrote this on account of the freebooters, in order that you may pro
tect him against them in the most efficacious manner. Farewell."
These letters were aU sealed with the seal of the sultan.
Hamma showed me also another letter which he had received
from the sultan, and which I think interesting enough to be
here inserted, as it is a faithful image of the turbulent state of
the country at that time, and as it contains the simple expres
sion of the sincere and just proceedings of the new sultan. Its
purport was as follows, though the language in which it is writ
ten is so incorrect that several passages admit of different inter
pretations.! "In the name of God, &c.
"From the Commander, the faithful Minister of Justice,! the Sultan 'Abd el
Kader, son of the Sultan Mohammed el Bakeri, to the chiefs of all the tribe of
E' Nur, and Hamed, and Seis, and all those among you who have large posses
sions, perfect peace to you.
"Tour eloquence, compliments, and information are deserving of praise. "We
have seen the auxiliaries sent to us by your tribe, and we have taken energetic
measures with them against the marauders, who obstruct the way of the caravans
of devout people,§ and the intercourse of those who travel as well as those who
remain at home. On this account we desire to receive aid from you against
then: incursions. The people of the Kel-fadaye, they are the marauders. "We
should not have prohibited their chiefs to exercise rule over them, except for
three things : First, because I am afraid they will betake themselves from the
Anikel [the community of the people of Air] to the Awelimmiden ; secondly, in
order that they may not make an alliance with them against us,, for they are all
marauders ; and thirdly, in order that you may approve of their paying us the
tribute. Come, then, to us quickly. Tou know that what the hand holds it
holds only with the aid of the fingers ; for without the fingers the hand can seize
nothing. "We therefore will expect your determination, that is to say, your coming,
t I follow the translation of the learned Rev. G. C. Renouard.
J The Rev. G. C. Renouard, in interpreting this passage, has evidently made
a mistake in translating "the minister of the sultan," and adding in a note that
Emir "is here a title given to the Emir el Nur," while it is to be referred to the
sultan himself.
§ By the expression " el fdkarah" the sultan certainly meant ns, who were
not traveling for trading purposes, but rather like dervishes.

348 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
after the departure of the salt-caravan of the Iti'san, fixed among you for the fif
teenth of the month. God ! God is merciful and answereth prayer ! Come,
therefore, to us, and we will tuck up our sleeves,* and drive away the maraud
ers, and fight valiantly against them as God (be He glorified !) hath commanded.
" Lo, corruption hath multiplied on the face of the earth. May the Lord not
question us on account of the poor and needy, orphans and widows, according to
His word : ' You are all herdsmen, and ye shall all be questioned respecting your
herds, whether ye have indeed taken good care of them or dried them up.'
"Delay not, therefore, but hasten to our residence where we are all assem
bled ; for ' zeal in the cause of religion is the duty of all ;' or send thy messenger
to us quickly with a positive answer; send thy messenger as soon as possible.
Farewell !"
The whole population was in alarm, and every body who
was able to bear arms prepared for the expedition. About sun
set the " egehen" left the town, numbering about four hundred
men, partly on camels, partly on horseback, besides the people
on foot. Boro as well as A'shu accompanied the sultan, who
this time was himself mounted on a camel. They went to take
their encampment near that of Astafidet, in Tagurast, 'Abd el
Kader pitching a tent of gray color, and in size like that of a
Turkish agha, in the midst of the Kel-geres, the Kel-ferwan, and
the Emgedesiye, while Astafidet, who had no tent, was sur
rounded by the Kel-owi. The sultan was kind and attentive
enough not to forget me even now ; and, having heard that I
had not yet departed, Hamma not having finished his business
in the town, he sent me some wheat, a large bo'tta with butter
and vegetables (chiefly melons and cucumbers), and the promise
of another sheep.
In the evening the drummer again went his rounds through
the town, proclaiming the strict order of the sultan that every
body should lay in a large supply of provisions. Although the
town in general had become very silent when deserted by so
many people, our house was kept in constant bustle ; and in the
course of the night three mehara came from the camp, with peo
ple who could get no supper there and sought it with us. Boro
sent a messenger to me early the next morning, urgently beg
ging for a little powder, as the " Meharebin" of the Imghad had
* All the tribes in Central Africa who wear the large tobes or shirts tuck their
sleeves up when about to undertake any work or going to fight.

RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION. 349
sent off their camels and other property, and were determined to
resist the army of the sultan. However, I could send him but
very little. My amusing friend Mohammed spent the whole day
with us, when he went to join the ghazzia. I afterward learned
that he obtained four head of cattle as his share. There must
be considerable herds of cattle in the more favored valleys of
Asben ; for the expedition had nothing else to live upon, as
Mohammed afterward informed me, and slaughtered an immense
quantity of them. Altogether the expedition was successful,
and the Fade-ang and many tribes of Imghad lost almost aU
their property. Even the influential Haj Beshir was punished,
on account of his son's having taken part in the expedition
against us. I received also the satisfactory information that
Abd el Kader had taken nine camels from the man who retain
ed my meheri ; but I gained nothing thereby, neither my own
camel being returned nor another given me in its stead. The
case was the same with aU our things ; but nevertheless the
proceeding had a good effect, seeing that people were punished
expressly for having robbed Christians, and thus the principle
was established that it was not less illegal to rob Christians than
it was to rob Mohammedans, both creeds being placed, as far as
regards the obligations of peace and honesty, on equally favor
able terms.
I spent the whole of Tuesday in my house, principally in tak
ing down information which I received from the intelligent Gha
damsi merchant Mohammed, who, having left his native town
from fear of the Turks, had resided six years in A'gades, and
was a weU-informed man.
Wednesday, October 23d. My old friend, the blacksmith
Hammeda, and the tall Eliyas, went off this morning with sev
eral camels laden with provision, while Hamma stiU staid be
hind to finish the purchases ; for, on account of the expedition,
and the insecure state of the road to Damerghu, it had been dif
ficult to procure provisions in sufficient quantity. Our house
therefore became almost as silent and desolate as the rest of the
town ; but I found a great advantage in remaining a few days
longer, for my chivalrous friend and protector, who, as long as

350 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the sultan and the great men were present, had been very re
served and cautious, had now no further scruple about taking
me every where, and showing me the town "within and with
out." We first visited the house of Tdder, a broker, who lived at a
short distance to the south from our house, and had also lodged

i ' II — I Haj 'Abduwa during his stay here. It was a

large, spacious dwelling, well arranged with a view

fr

nt 2jM to comfort and privacy, according to the concep-
rx.'^7"^ tions and customs of the inhabitants, while our
tHJ house (being a mere temporary residence for A'n
nur's people occasionally visiting the town) was a dirty, com
fortless abode. We entered first a vestibule, about twenty-five
feet long and nine broad, having on each side a separate space
marked off by that low kind of balustrade mentioned in my de
scription of the sultan's house. This vestibule or anteroom was
followed by a second room of larger size and irregular arrange
ment ; opposite the entrance it opened into another apartment,
which, with two doors, led into a spacious inner court-yard,
which was very irregularly circumscribed by several rooms pro
jecting into it, while to the Laft it was occupied by an enormous
bedstead (1). These bedsteads are a most characteristic article
of furniture in all dwellings of the Songhay. In A'gades they
are generally very solidly built of thick boards, and furnished
with a strong canopy resting upon four posts, covered with mats
on the top and on three sides, the remaining side being shut in
with boards. Such a canopied bed looks like a little house by
itself. On the waU of the first chamber, which on the right
projected into the court-yard, several lines of large pots had
been arranged, one above the other (2), forming so many warm
nests for a number of turtle-doves which were playing all along
the court-yard, while on the left, in the half-decayed walls of two
other rooms (3), about a dozen goats were fastened, each to a
separate pole. The background of the court-yard contained
several rooms ; and in front of it a large shade (4) had been
built of mats, forming a rather pleasant and cool resting-place.
Numbers of children were gamboling about, and gave to the

INTERIOR OF A HOUSE. 351
whole a very cheerful appearance. There is something very pe
culiar in these houses, which are constructed evidently with a
view to comfort and quiet enjoyment.
We then went to visit a female friend of Hamma, who lived
in the south quarter of the town, in a house which likewise be
spoke much comfort ; but here, on account of the number of in
mates, the arrangement was different, the second vestibule being
furnished on each side with a large bedstead instead of mats,
though here also there was in the court-yard an immense bed
stead. The court-yard was comparatively small, and a long
corridor on the left of it led to an inner court-yard or "tsakan-
gida," which I was not allowed to see. The mistress of the
house was stiU a very comely person, although she had borne
several children. She had a fine figure, though rather under
the middle size, and a fair complexion. I may here remark
that many of the women of A'gades are not a shade darker than
Arab women in general. She wore a great quantity of silver
ornaments, and was well dressed in a gown of colored cotton
and silk. Hamma was very intimate with her, and intro
duced me to her as his friend and protege, whom she ought
to value as highly as himself. She was married, but her hus
band was residing in Katsena, and she did not seem to await
his return in the Penelopean style. The house had as many
as twenty inmates, there being no less than six children, I think,
under five years of age, and among them a very handsome little
girl, the mother's favorite ; besides, there were six or seven full-
grown slaves.* The chUdren were aU naked, but wore orna
ments of beads and silver.
After we had taken leave of this Emgedesiye lady, we fol
lowed the street toward the south, where there were some very
good houses, although the quarter iri general was in ruins ; and
here I saw the very best and most comfortable-looking dwelling
* Leo, in the interesting description which he gives of this town, 1. vii., c. 'J,
expressly praises the size and architecture of the houses ; " Le case sono benis-
simo edificate a modo delle case di Barberia." He also speaks here of the great
number of male slaves whom the merchants were obliged to keep in order to
protect themselves on the roads to Necrroland.

352 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
in the town. All the pinnacles were ornamented with ostrich
eggs. One will often find in an Eastern town, after the first im
pression of its desolate appearance is gone by, many proofs that
the period of its utter prostration is not yet come, but that even
in the midst of the ruins there is stiU a good deal of ease and
comfort. Among the ruins of the southern quarter are to be
seen the pinnacled waUs of a buUding of immense circumfer
ence and considerable elevation ; but, unfortunately, I could not
learn from Hamma for what purpose it had been used: how
ever, it was certainly a public building, and probably a large
khan rather than the residence of the chief.* With its high,
towering walls, it still forms a sort of outwork on the south side
of the town, where in general the waU is entirely destroyed, and
the way is every where open. Hamma had a great prejudice
against this desolate quarter. Even the more intelligent Mo
hammedans are often afraid to enter former dwelling-places of
men, believing them to be haunted by spirits ; but he took me
to some inhabited houses, which were all built on the same prin
ciple as that described, but varying greatly in depth and in the
size of the court-yard. The staircases (abi-n-hawa) are in the
court-yard, and are rather irregularly built of stones and clay.
In some of them young ostriches were running about.
The inhabitants of all the houses seemed to have the
same cheerful disposition, and I was glad to find
scarcely a single instance of misery. I give here the
ground-plan of another house.
The artisans who work in leather (an occupation left entirely
to females) seem to live in a quarter by themselves, which orig
inally was quite separated from the rest of the town by a sort
of gate ; but I did not make a suflicient survey of this quarter
to mark it distinctly in the ground-plan of the town. We also
visited some of the mat-makers.
Our maimolo of the other day, who had discovered that we
had slaughtered our sheep, paid us a visit in the evening, and
* From Leo's description, I. vii., c. 9, it would appear that the palace of the
sultan in former times was in the middle of the town — " un bel palazzo in mezzo
della citta." He kept a numerous host of soldiers.

WANTON MANNERS. 353
for a piece of meat entertained me with a clever performance on
his instrument, accompanied with a song. Hamma spent his
evening with our friend the Emgedesiye lady, and was kind
enough to beg me to accompany him. This I declined, but
gave him a smaU present to take to her.
I had a fair sample of the state of morals in A'gades the fol
lowing day, when five or six girls and women came to pay me
a visit in our house, and with much simplicity invited me to
make merry with them, there being now, as they said, no longer
reason for reserve, "as the sultan was gone." It was, indeed,
rather amusing to see what conclusions they drew from the
motto " serki yatafi." Two of them were tolerably pretty and
weU formed, with fine black hair hanging down in plaits or
tosses, lively eyes, and very fair complexion. Their dress was
decent, and that of one of them even elegant, consisting of an
under gown reaching from the neck to the ankles, and an upper
one drawn over the head, both of white color ; but their de
meanor was very free, and I too clearly understood the caution
requisite in a European who would pass through these countries
unharmed and respected by the natives, to allow myself to be
tempted by these wantons. It would be better for a traveler in
these regions, both for his own comfort and for the respect felt
for him by the natives, if he could take his wife with him ; for
these simple people do not understand how a man can live with
out a partner. The Western Tawarek, who in general are very
ngorous in their manners, and quite unlike the Kel-owi, had
nothing to object against me except my being a bachelor. But as
it is difficult to find a female companion for such journeys, and
as by marrying a native he would expose himself to much
trouble and inconvenience on the score of rehgion, he will do
best to maintain the greatest austerity of manners with regard
to the other sex, though he may thereby expose himself to a
good deal of derision from some of the Hghter-hearted natives.
Ine ladies, however, became so troublesome that I thought it
best to remain at home for a few days, and was thus enabled at
'he same time to note down the information which I had been
able to pick up. During these occupations I was always greatly
Vol.I.—Z

354 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
pleased with the companionship of a diminutive species of
finches which frequent aU the rooms in A'gades, and, as I may
add from later experience, in Timbuktu also ; the male, with its
red neck, in particular, looks extremely pretty. The poults
were just about to fledge.
Sunday, October 21th. There was one very characteristic
building in the town, which, though a most conspicuous object
from the terrace of our house, I had never yet investigated with
suflicient accuracy. This was the mesallaje, or high tower ris
ing over the roof of the mosque. The reason why this build
ing in particular (the most famous and remarkable one in the
town) had been hitherto observed by me only from a distance,
and in passing by, must be obvious. Difference of religious
creed repelled me from it ; and so long as the town was full of
strangers, some of them very fanatical, it was dangerous for me
to approach it too closely. I had often inquired whether it
would not be possible to ascend the tower without entering the
mosque ; but I had always received for answer that the en
trance was locked up. As soon, however, as the sultan was
gone, and when the town became rather quiet, I urged Hamma
to do his best that I might ascend to the top of this curious
building, which I represented to him as a matter of the utmost
importance to me, since it would enable me not only to control
my route by taking a few angles of the principal elevations
round the valley Atideras, but also to obtain a distant view over
the country toward the west and south, which it was not my
good luck to visit myself. To-day Hamma promised me that
he would try what could be done.
Having once more visited the lively house of I'dder, we took
our way over the market-places, which were now rather dull.
The vultures looked out with visible greediness and eagerness
from the pinnacles of the ruined waUs around for their wonted
food — their share of offal during these days, when so many peo
ple were absent, being of course much reduced, though some of
them probably had foUowed their fellow-citizens on the expedi
tion. So few people being in the streets, the town had a more
ruined look than ever, and the large heap of rubbish accumu-

CHIEF MOSQUE AND TOWER.

355

lated on the south side of the butchers' market seemed to me
more disgusting than before. We kept along the principal
street between Digi and Arrafiya, passing the deep well Shed-
wanka on our right, and on the other side a school, which re
sounded with the shriU voices of about fifty little boys repeat
ing with energy and enthusiasm the verses of the Kuran, which
their master had written for them upon their little wooden
tablets. Having reached the open space in front of the mosque (" sa-
rari-n-mesallaje"), and there being nobody to disturb me, I could
view at my leisure this simple but curious building, which in
the subsequent course of my journey became stiU more inter
esting to me, as I saw plainly that it was buUt on exactly the
same principle as the tower which rises over the sepulchre of
the famed conqueror Haj Mohammed A'skia (the " Ischia" of
Leo). The mesaHaje starts up from the platform or terrace formed
by the roof of the mosque, which is extremely low, resting ap
parently, as we shaU see, in its interior, upon four massive pu
bis. It is square, and measures at its base about thirty feet,

a smaU lean-to, on its east side, on the terrace of the
mosque, where most probably there was formerly the entrance.
rom this the tower rises (decreasing in width, and with a sort of

356 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
sweUing or entasis in the middle of its elevation, something like
the beautiful model adopted by nature in the deleb palm, and
imitated by architects in the columns of the Ionic and Corinthi
an orders) to a height of from ninety to ninety-five feet. It
measures at its summit not more than about eight feet in width.
The interior is lighted by seven openings on each side. Like
most of the houses in A'gades, it is built entirely of clay; and
in order to strengthen a buUding so lofty and of so soft a mate
rial, its four walls are united by thirteen layers of boards of the
dum-tree crossing the whole tower in its entire breadth and
width, and coming out on each side from three to four feet, while
at the same time they afford the only means of getting to the
top. Its purpose is to serve as a watch-tower, or, at least, was
so at a former time, when the town, surrounded by a strong
wall and supplied with water, was well capable of making re
sistance, if warned in due time of an approaching danger. But
at present it seems rather to be kept in repair only as a decora
tion of the town.
The Mesallaje in its present state was only six years old at
the time of my visit (in 1850), and perhaps was not even quite
finished in the interior, as I was told that the layers of boards
were originaUy intended to support a staircase of clay. About
fifty paces from the southwestern corner of the mosque, the ru
ins of an older tower are seen stiU rising to a considerable height,
though leaning much to one side, more so than the celebrated
tower of Pisa, and most probably in a few years it will give way
to an attack of storm and rain. This more ancient tower seems
to have stood quite detached from the mosque.
Having sufficiently surveyed the exterior of the tower, and
made a sketch of it, I accompanied my impatient companion into
the interior of the mosque, into which he felt no scruple in con
ducting me. The Iowness of the structure had already sur
prised me from without, but I was stiU more astonished when I
entered the interior, and saw that it consisted of low, narrow
naves, divided by pillars of immense thickness, the reason of
which it is not possible at present to understand, as they have
nothing to support but a roof of dum-tree boards, mats, and a

INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE. 357
layer of clay ; but I think it scarcely doubtful that originally
these naves were but the vaults or ceUars of a grander super
structure, designed but not executed, and this conjecture seems
to be confirmed by aU that at present remains of the mosque.
The gloomy halls were buried in a mournful silence,. interrupt
ed only by the voice of a solitary man, seated on a dirty mat at
the western waU of the tower, and reading diligently the torn
leaves of a manuscript. Seeing that it was the kadhi, we went
up to him and saluted him most respectfully, but it was not in
the most cheerful and amiable way that he received our compli
ments — mine in particular — continuing to read, and scarcely
raising his eyes from the sheets before him.* Hamma then
asked for permission to ascend the tower, but received a plain
and unmistakable refusal, the thing being impossible, there be
ing no entrance to the tower at present. It was shut up, he
said, on account of the Kel-geres, who used to ascend the tow
er in great numbers. Displeased with his uncourteous behavior,
and seeing that he was determined not to permit me to climb
the tower, were it ever so feasible, we withdrew and caUed upon
the imam, who lives in a house attached to these vaults, and
which looked a little neater from having been whitewashed;
however, he had no power to aid us in our purpose, but rather
confirmed the statement of the kadhi. '
This is the principal mosque of the town, and seems to have
always been so, although there are said to have been formerly
as many as seventy mosques, of which ten are still in use.
They deserve no mention, however, with the exception of three,
the Msid Mili,t Msid E'heni, and Msid el Mekki. I will only
add here that the Emgedesiye, so far as their very slender stock
of theological learning and doctrine entitles them to rank with
any sect, are Malekiye, as weU as the Kel-owi.
* The hostile disposition of the kadhi toward me was most unfortunate, as he
would have been the very man to give me the information I wanted ; for I did
not meet any other native of the place well versed in Arabic literature, and but
a few were able to speak Arabic at all.
T Whether this name be a corruption of Mghili, meaning the fanatical Mo
hammedan apostle, Mohammed ben 'Abd el Kerim el Maghili, of whom I have
spoken above, I can not say.

358 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Resigning myself to the disappointment of not being able to
ascend the tower, I persuaded my friend to take a longer, walk
with me round the northern quarter of the town. But I forgot
to mention that, besides Hamma, I had another companion of a
very different character. This was Ztimmuzuk, a reprobate of
the worst description, and whose features bore distinct impress
of the vile and brutal passions which actuated him ; yet, being
a clever feUow, and (as the Ulegitimate son, or " dan nema," of
an Emgedesi woman) fuUy master of the peculiar idiom of A'ga
des, he was tolerated not only by the old chief A'nnur, who em
ployed him as interpreter, but even by me. How insolent the
knave could be I shall soon have occasion to mention.
With this fellow, therefore, and with Hamma, I continued my
walk, passing the kofa-n-alkali, and then, from the ruins of the
quarter Ben-Gottara, turning to the north. Here the wall of
the town is in a tolerable state of preservation, but very weak
and insufficient, though it is kept in repair, even to the pinna
cles, on account of its surrounding the palace of the sultan.
Not far from this is an open space caUed Azarmadarangh, " the
place of execution," where occasionaUy the head of a rebellious
chieftain or a murderer is cut off by the "doka;" but, as far
as I could learn, such things happen very seldom. Even on
the north side, two gates are in a tolerable state of preserva
tion. Having entered the town from this side, we went to visit the
quarter of the leather-workers, which, as I stated before, seems
to have formed originally a regular ward ; all this handicraft,
with the exception of saddle-work, is carried on by women, who
work with great neatness. Very beautiful provision-bags are
made here, although those which I brought back from Timbuk
tu are much handsomer. We saw also some fine specimens of
mats, woven of a very soft kind of grass, and dyed of various
colors. Unfortunately, I had but little with me wherewith to
buy ; and even if I had been able to make purchases, the des
tination of our journey being so distant, there was not much
hope of carrying the things safe to Europe. The blacksmiths'
work of A'gades is also interesting, although showy and bar-

ENLIGHTENED VIEWS. 359
barous, and not unlike the work with which the Spaniards used
to adorn their long daggers.
Monday, October 28th. During aU this time I prosecuted in
quiries with regard to several subjects connected with the geog
raphy and ethnography of this quarter of the world. I received
several visits from Emgedesi tradesmen, many of whom are es
tablished in the northern provinces of Hausa, chiefly in Katse
na and Tasawa, where living is infinitely cheaper than in A'ga
des. AU these I found to be inteUigent men, having been
brought up in the centre of intercourse between a variety of
tribes and nations of the most different organization, and, through
the web of routes which join here, receiving information of dis
tant regions. Several of them had even made the Pilgrimage,
and thus come in contact with the relatively high state of civil
ization in Egypt and near the coast ; and I shall not easily for
get the enlightened view which the m'aUem Haj Mohammed
'Omar, who visited me several times, took of Islamism and
Christianity. The last day of my stay in A'gades, he reverted
to the subject of religion, and asked me, in a manner fully ex
pressive of his astonishment, how it came to pass that the
Christians and Moslemin were so fiercely opposed to one anoth
er, although their creeds, in essential principles, approximated
so closely. To this I replied by saying that I thought the rea
son was that the great majority both of Christians and Moslemin
paid less regard to the dogmas of their creeds than to external
matters, which have very little or no reference to religion itself.
I also tried to explain to him that, in the time of Mohammed,
Christianity had entirely lost that purity which was its original
character, and that it had been mixed up with many idolatrous
elements, from which it was not entirely disengaged till a few
centuries ago, while the Mohammedans had scarcely any ac
quaintance with Christians except those of the old sects of the
Jacobites and Nestorians. Mutually pleased with our conver
sation, we parted from each other with regret.
In the afternoon I was agreeably surprised by the arrival of
the Tinylkum Ibrahim, for the purpose of supplying his broth
er s house with what was wanted; and being determined to

360 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
make only one day's stay in the town, he had learned with
pleasure that we were about to return by way of A'fasas, the
vUlage whither he himself was going. I myself had cherished
this hope, as all the people had represented that place as one of
the largest in the country, and as pleasantly situated. Hamma
had promised to take me this way on our return to Tintellust ;
but having staid so much longer in the town than he had in
tended, and being afraid of arriving too late for the salt-caravan
of the Kel-owi on their way to Bilma, which he was to supply
with provisions, he changed his plan, and determined to return
by the shortest road. Meanwhile, he informed me that the old
chief would certainly not go with us to Zinder till the salt-cara
van had returned from Bilma.
Fortunately, in the course of the 29th a small caravan with
corn arrived from Damerghu, and Hamma completed his pur
chases. He had, however, first to settle a disagreeable affair ;
for our friend Zummuzuk had bought in Hamma's name several
things, for which payment was now demanded. Hamma flew
into a terrible rage, and nearly finished the rogue. My Arab
and Tawati friends, who heard that we were to start the foUow
ing day, though they were rather busy buying corn, came to
take leave of me ; and I was glad to part from all of them in
friendship. But, before bidding farewell to this interesting place,
I shall make a few general observations on its history.

CHAPTER XVIII.
HISTORY OF A'GADES.

If we had before us the historical work upon the authority
of which Mohammed el Bageri assured Sultan Bello that the
people of Gober, who formerly possessed the country of Air,
were Copts,* we should most probably find in it the history of
* Sultan Bello's "Enfak el Misuri fi tarfkh belad el Tekniri," in Denham and
Clapperton's Travels, Appendix, vol. ii., p. 162. I myself have a copy of the
same extracts from this work of Bello.

SOTCGHAY CONQUEROR. 361
A'gades. As it is, however, until that book shall come to light,
of which I do not at all despair, provided future travelers inquire
diligently for it, we must be content with endeavoring to con
centrate the faint and few rays of light which dimly reveal to us,
in its principal features, the history of this remarkable town.
Previously to Mr. Cooley's perspicuous inquiries into the Ne-
oroland of the Arabs, this place was identified with Audaghost,
merely on account of a supposed similarity of name. But
A'gades, or rather E'gedesh, is itself a pure Berber word, in no
way connected with Audaghost. It is of very frequent occur
rence, particularly among the AweHmmiden, and means "fam
ily ;" and the name was well chosen for a town of mixed ele
ments. Moreover, while we find Audaghost in the west in the
twelfth century, we have the distinct statement of Marmol*that
A'gades was founded a hundred and sixty years before the time
when he wrote (that is to say, in 1460), the truth of which state
ment, harmonizing as it does with Leo's more general account,
that it was a modern town,f we have no reason to doubt. Nei
ther of these authors tells us who built it ; but as we know that
the great Songhay conqueror Haj Mohammed A'skia, who con
quered the town of A'gades in the year of the Hejra 921, or
1515 of our era,t expeUed from it the five Berber tribes who,
according to the information coUected by me during my stay in
A'gades, and which I shaU soon lay before my readers, must
have been long resident in the town, it appears highly probable
that these Berbers were its founders. And if this be assumed,
there wiU be no difficulty in explaining why the language of the
natives of the place at present is a dialect of the Songhay lan
guage, as it is most probable that that great and enlightened
^ * Marmol, Descripcion dell' Africa, vol. iii., fl. xxiv., b. : " Agadez es una pro-
vmcia  ay en ella una ciudad del proprio nombre, que a sido edificada de
oiento y sesenta auos a este parte."
+ Leo Africanus, 1. vii., c. 9 : "Edificata dai moderni re (?) ne' confini di Libia."
The word "re" is very suspicious.
t Seethe extracts of Baba Ahmed's " Tarikh e' Sudan," sent by me to Europe,
and published in the Journal of the German Oriental Society, 1855. This state
ment agrees exactly with an interesting passage in Sultan Bello's " Enfak el Mi-
sin, which has been unaccountably omitted by Salame in the translation ap
pended to Denham and Clapperton's Travels.

362 TRAVELS IN AFRICA
conqueror, after he had driven out the old inhabitants, estab
lished in this important place a new colony of his own people.
In a similar way we find the Songhay nation, which seems not
to have originally extended to a great distance eastward of
Gagho or Gogo, now extending into the very heart of Kebbi, al
though we shall find other people speaking the same language
in the neighborhood of A'gades, and perhaps maybe able, in the
course of our researches, to trace some connection between the
Songhay and ancient Egypt.
It is therefore highly probable that those five Berber tribes
formed the settlement in question as an entrepot for their com
merce with Negroland, though the foundation of such a grand
settlement on the border of the desert presumes that they had,
at that time, a preponderating influence in aU these regions;
and the whole affair is so peculiar, that its history could not fail
to gratify curiosity if more could be known of it. From Bello's
account, it would appear that they, or at least one of these tribes
(the Aujila*), conquered the whole of Air.
It is certainly remarkable to see people from five places, sep
arated from each other by immense tracts, and united only by
the bond of commerce and interest, founding a large colony far
away from their homes, and on the very border of the desert ;
for, according to aU that I could learn by the most sedulous in
quiries in A'gades, those tribes belonged to the Gurara of Ta
wat, to the Tafimata, to the Beni Wazit, and the Tesko of Gha
dames, to the once powerful and numerous tribe of the Masrata,
and finally to the Aujila ; and as the names of almost all these
different tribes, and of their divisions, are still attached to locali
ties of the town, we can scarcely doubt the correctness of this in
formation, and must suppose that Sultan BeUo was mistaken in
referring the five tribes (settled in A'gades) to Aujila alone.f
* BeUo took an erroneous view of the subject in supposing all the five tribes
to have come from Aujila. Only one of them was originally from that place;
and the names of the five tribes as mentioned by him are evidently erroneous.
(See the following note.) The error in deriving all these five tribes from Aiijila
originated probably in the general tradition that the whole nation of the Ber
bers had spread over North Africa from Syria by way of the oasis of Aujila.
t Bello, in Appendix to Denham and Clapperton's Travels, vol. ii., p. 160.

THE ASSOCIATED TRIBES. 363
Though nothing is related about the manner in which Haj
Mohammed A'skia took possession of the town,* except that it
is stated distinctly that he drove out the five tribes, it seems,
from the traditions current in A'gades, that a considerable num
ber of the Berbers, with five hundred "jakhfa" (cages mounted
on camels, such as only wealthy people can afford to keep for
carrying their wives), left the town, but were aU massacred.
But no one who regards with the least attention the character
of the present population of the town can doubt for a moment
that a considerable number of the Berber population remained
behind, and, in course of time, mixed with the Songhay colo
nists ; for, even if we set aside the consideration of the lan
guage (which is greatly intermixed with Berber words), there is
evidently much Berber blood in the population even at the pres
ent day — a fact which is more evident in the females than in the
males. It is a pity that Leo says nothing about the language spoken
in A'gades ;f for he lived just at the very period during which
the town, from a Berber settlement, became a Negro town. His
expression^: certainly implies that he regarded it as a Negro
town. But, while weU informed in general respecting the great
Indeed, in this passage he does not mention distinctly A'gades, but speaks in
general of the province of Ahir (Air) ; it is clear, however, that the five tribes
mentioned here as having wrested the whole country from the hands of the Go-
berawa are identical with those settled in A'gades. Bello, in this case, was evi
dently ill informed, for Amakitan seems not to be the name of a tribe, but of a
man; Ajdaranin is the name of a section of the Kel-geres ; the Agdalar seem to
be identical with the I'ghdalen. Certainly the Aujila were a. most celebrated
tribe; and it appears fromEdrisi's report (Jaubert, vol. i., p. 238) that even at so
early an age as the middle of the 12th century of our era they carried on inter
course with Kawar and Gogo by way of Ghadames.
ATuned Baba, in relating this most interesting expedition of the greatest
aero of his historical work, is most provokingly brief; but the reason is that he
was well acquainted only with the countries near Timbuktu.
T In the report which I sent to government from my journey, and which has
been printed in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, I stated that, ac
cording to Leo's account, the Hausa language was spoken at that time in A'gades ;
rt was a mere lapse of memory. From no passage of his can any conclusion
be drawn with regard to this subject.
t "E questa citta e quasi vicina alia citta dei Bianchi phi che alcun' altra de'
Negri."

364 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
conquests of Mohammed A'skia (or, as he calls him, Ischia, whom
he erroneously styles King of Timbuktu), he does not once men
tion his expedition against A'gades, of which he might have
heard as easily as of those against Katsena and Kano, which
preceded the former only by two years. From his account it
would seem that the town was then in a very flourishing state,
full of foreign merchants and slaves, and that the king, though
he paid a tribute of 150,000 ducats to the King of Timbuktu
(Gago), enjoyed a great degree of independence, at least from
that quarter, and had even a military force of his own. Be
sides, it is expressly stated that he belonged to the Berber
race.* But it would almost seem as if Leo, in this passage,
represented the state of things as it was when he visited the
town, before A'skia's time, and not at the date when he wrote,
though the circumstance of the tribute payable to that king may
have been learned from later information. In general, the great
defect in Leo's description is that the reader has no exact dates
to which to refer the several statements, and that he can not be
sure how far the author speaks as an eye-witness, and how far
from information.!
Of course, it is possible that the Berbers found a Songhay
population, if not in the place itself, which most probably did
not exist before the time of their arrival, yet in the district
around it ; and it would seem that there existed in ancient
times, in the celebrated valley of Tr-n-aUem, a smaU town, of
whichj some vestiges are said to remain at the present day, as
well as two or three date-trees, the solitary remains of a large
plantation. From this town, tradition says, the present inhab
itants of A'gades were transplanted. But, be this as it may, it
* Leo, 1. vii., c. 9, et 1. i., c. 10, near the end.
t What Leo says, 1. vii., c. 1, of Abubakr Ischia (that is to say, Mohammed ben
Abu Bakr el Haj A'skia) — " Acquistando in anni quindici appresso molti regni,
e poiche ebbe reso pacifico e quieto il suo, gli venne disio di andar come pelle-
grino a Mecca" — is very confused ; for Mohammed A'skia, having ascended the
throne on the 14th of Jumad II., 898, began the pilgrimage in Safer, 902, con
sequently in the fifth year of his reign ; yet Leo received information of his ex
pedition against Katsena and the adjoining provinces, which was made in 919.
X See Itinerary in the Appendix.

TEGI'DDA. 365
is certain that the same dialect of the Songhay language which
is spoken in A'gades is also still spoken in a few places in the
neighborhood by the tribe of the Tghdalen or Ighedalen, whose
whole appearance, especially their long hair, shows them to be
a mixed race of Songhay and Berbers ; and there is some rea
son to suppose that they belonged originaUy to the Zenaga or
Senhaja. These people Hve in and around Tngal, a small town
four days' journey from A'gades, on the road to Sokoto,* and
in and around Tegidda, a place three days' journey from Tngal,
and about five from A'gades W.S.W. This latter place is of
considerable interest, being evidently identical with the town of
the same name mentioned by Ebn Khaldunf and by Ebn Ba-
tutaf as a wealthy place, lying eastward from Gogo, on the road
to Egypt, and in intimate connection and friendly intercourse
with the Mzab and Wargela. It was governed by a Berber
chief, with the title of sultan. This place, too, was for some
time subject to Gogo, or rather to the empire of Mdlle or Mali,
which then comprised Songhay, in the latter part of the 14th
century ; and the circumstance that here, too, the Songhay lan
guage is stiU spoken, may be best explained by referring it to
colonization, since it is evident that A'skia, when he took pos
session of A'gades, must have occupied Tegidda also, which lay
on the road from Gogo to that place. However, I will not. in
dulge in conjectures, and wiU merely enter into historical ques
tions so far as they contribute to furnish a vivid and coherent
picture of the tribes and countries with which my journey
brought me into contact. I will therefore only add that this
place, Tegidda or Tekadda, was famous, in the time of Ebn Ba-
tuta, for its copper mines, the ores of which were exported as
* See Appendix.
t Ebn Khaldiin, ed. Slane, Alger., 1847, torn, i., p. 267. Ebn Khaldiin evi
dently says that the chief of Tegidda had friendly intercourse with Wargela and
Mzab, although Mr. Cooley (Negroland, p. 65) has referred these expressions to
Miisa, the king of Songhay.
t Ebn Batiita in the passage referred to above. It is curious that both these
writers give the exact distance of Tegidda from Biida, in Tawat, and from War
gela, both distances as of seventy marches, while they omit to mention its dis
tance from Gogo.

366 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
far as Bornu and Gober, while at present nothing is known of
the existence of copper hereabouts ; but a very good species of
salt of red color (ja-n-gisheri), which is far superior to that of
Bilma, is obtained here, as well as in Tngal. But I recommend
this point to the inquiry of future travelers. I have mentioned
above the presence of loadstone on the border of Air.
Having thus attempted to elucidate and illustrate the re
markable fact that the language of A'gades is derived from and
akin to the Songhay — a fact which, of course, appeared to me
more surprising before I discovered, in the course of 1853, that
this language extends eastward far beyond the so-caUed Niger
— I return once more to the settlement of the Berbers in A'gades.
It is evident that this settlement, if it was of the nature de
scribed above, was made for the purpose of serving as a great
commercial entrepot for the commerce with another country;
and if we duly consider the statements made by El Bekri,*
Ebn Batuta,f Leo,$ Ca da Mosto,§ and by the author of the
"History of Songhay," with regard to the importance of the
market of Gogo, and if we pay due attention to that circuitous
route which led from Gogo by way of Tegidda, not only to
Egypt, but even to Tawat, || there can not be the least doubt
that A'gades was founded by those Berber tribes, with the dis
tinct purpose that it might serve them as a secure abode and
fortified magazine in their commercial intercourse with that
splendid capital of the Songhay empire, the principal article of
which was gold, which formed also the chief article in the for
mer commerce of A'gades. For A'gades had its own standard
weight of this precious metal — the mithkal, which, even at the
present day, regulates the circulating medium. And this mith-
* El Bekri, "Notices et Extraits," torn, xii., p. 649.
t Ebn Batiita repeatedly calls it the largest, handsomest, and strongest of all
the cities in Negroland. } Leo, 1. vii., c. 7.
§ Navigazioni di Aloise Ca da Mosto, c. 13 : " La prima parte di loro va con
la carovana che tiene il cammino di Melli ad un luogo che si chiama Cochia.'
|| We shall see, in the further course of our proceedings, that there is another
direct road from Gogo to Tawat ; but this, in ancient times, seems not to have
been frequented, on account either of the difficulties of the road itself, or the
dangerous character of the tribes in its vicinity.

THE ANCIENT GOLD TRADE. 367
kai of A'gades is totaUy different from the standard of the same
name which is in use in Timbuktu, the latter being, in regard to
the Spanish dollar, as 1£ to 1, and the former only as f to 1.
But for wholesale business a greater weight was in use, called
"karruwe," the smaUer karruwe containing thirty-three mitha-
kel or mithkals and a third, equal to two rottls and a sixth,
while the larger karruwe contained a hundred mithkals, and
was equal to six rottls and a half.
The importance of the trade of A'gades, and the wealth of the
place in general, appear very clearly from the large tribute of a
hundred and fifty thousand ducats which the King of A'gades
was able to pay to that of Songhay, especiaUy if we bear in
mind that Leo, in order to give an idea of the great expense
which this same King of Songhay had incurred on his pilgrim
age to Mekka, states in another passage* that, having spent aU
he took with him, he contracted a debt amounting to that very
sum. As for the King of A'gades, his situation was at that time
just what it is now ; and we can not better describe his preca
rious position, entirely dependent on the caprice and intrigues
of the influential chiefs of the Tawarek, than by using the very
words of Leo, " AUe volte scacciano il re e pongono qualche suo
parente in luogo di lui, ne usano ammazzar alcuno ; e quel che
piu contenta gli abitatori del diserto e fatto re in Agadez."
Unfortunately, we are not able to fix a date for that very pe
cuhar covenant between the different tribes with regard to the
installation of the Sultan of A'gades, and the establishing of the
pnnciple that he must belong to a certain family, which is re-
^ garded as of sherif nobiHty,t and lives not in A'gades, nor even
in the country of Air, but in a town of Gober. I was once in
clined to think that this was an arrangement made in conse
quence of the power and influence which the Emir of Sokoto
had arrogated to himself; but I have now reason to doubt this,
for even the grandfather of 'Abd el Kader was sultan. Certain-
Leo, 1. vii., c. 1 : " E rimase debitore di centocinquanta mila ducati."
t Whether the story which circulates among the people that this family origin-
y comes from Stambul or Constantinople has any reasonable foundation, I am
unable to decide.

368

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

ly even now, when the power of the Fulfulde or FeUani empire
is fast crumbling to pieces, the Emir of] Sokoto has a certain in
fluence upon the choice of the Sultan of A'gades. Of this fact
I myself became witness during my stay in Sokoto in April,
1853, when Hamed e' Rufay was once more sent out to succeed
'Abd el Kader. Indeed Ittegama, 'Abd el Kader's brother, who
thought that I enjoyed the favor and confidence of the emir,
called upon me (as I shall relate in due time) expressly in order
to entreat me most urgently to exert my influence in order to
restore my former host to his authority.
I have described already in what way the union of the tribes
of the Itisan, the Kel-geres, and the Kel-owi is expressed in in
stalling the sultan ; but, though without the presence and as
sent of the former the new prince could never arrive at his place
of residence, the final decision seems to rest with the chief A'n
nur, the inhabitants of the town having no voice in the matter.
The sultan is rather a chief of the Tawarek tribes residing in
A'gades than the ruler of A'gades. How difficult and precari
ous his position must be, may be easily conceived if it be con
sidered that these tribes are generaUy at war with one another;
the father of Hamed e' Ruf ay was even kiUed by the Kel-geres.
Nevertheless, if he be an intelligent and energetic man, his in
fluence in the midst of this wild conflict and struggle of clash
ing interests and inclinations must be very beneficial.
What the revenue of the sultan may at present amount to it
is difficult to say. His means and income consist chiefly in the
presents which he receives on his accession to authority ; in a
contribution of one bullock's hide or kulabu (being about the
value of half a Spanish doUar) from each family ; in a more con
siderable but rather uncertain tribute levied upon the Imghad;
in the tax of ten mithkals or four Spanish dollars which he lev
ies on each camel-load of foreign merchandise which enters the
town of A'gades* (articles of food being exempt from charge);
in a small tribute derived from the salt brought from Bilma, and
in the fines levied on lawless people and marauders, and often
* This seems also to have been the most important income in the time of Leo:
" Riceve il re gran rendita delle gabelle che pagano le robe de' forestieri."

THE SULTAN AND HIS MINISTER. 369
on whole tribes. Thus it is very probable that the expedition
which Abd el Kader undertook immediately after his accession
against the tribes who had plundered us enriched him consid
erably. As for the inhabitants of A'gades themselves, I was
assured that they do not pay him any tribute at all, but are
obliged only to accompany him on his expeditions. Of course,
in earlier times, when the commerce of the town was infinitely
greater than at present, and when the Imghad (who had to pro
vide him with cattle, corn, fruit, and vegetables) were strictly
obedient, his income far exceeded that of the present day. When
taken altogether, it is certainly considerably under twenty thou
sand dollars. His title is Amanokal or Amanokal Imakoren
in Temashight, Kokoy* bere in the Emgedesi, and Baba-n-Serki
in the Hausa language.
The person second in authority in the town, and in certain
respects the vizier, is now, and apparently was also in ancient
times, the "kokoy geregeref ii. e., master of the court-yard or
the interior of the palace). This is his real indigenous charac
ter, while the foreigners, who regarded him only in his relation
to themselves, caUed him Sheikh el 'Arab, or, in the Hausa lan
guage, serki-n-turawa^ (the chief of the Whites) ; and this is
the title by which he is generaUy known ; for it was he who
had to levy the tax on the merchandise imported into the town
—an office which in former times, when a considerable trade
* In the Songhay language " koy" means master, and is not only employed in
other compositions, such as kiit-koy (the shepherd), birS-koy (the marksman), but
even as title for a governor, such as Tiimbutu-koy (the governor of Timbuktu),
Jinni-koy (the governor of Jinni). I therefore conclude that ko-koy means the
master of the masters, or greatest master — the king of kings, like the Hausa

t Perhaps some might conjecture that this word gere-gere has some connec
tion with the Ger-geri of Ebn Batiita (see above) ; but I think there is none.
t "Turawa" is the plural of "ba-ture." "Ture" or "turi" is an old word, al
ready mentioned by Ebn Batiita (Journal Asiatique, 1843, torn, i., p. 201): "Les
hommes blancs, qui professent les doctrines sonnites et suivent le rite de Malik,
sont designes ici (dans le royaume de Melle) par le nom de (_£i«i'-" The word,
therefore, seems to have been introduced into the Hausa language at a later pe
riod as designating the white people, and, I think, has connection with the word
tura" (to pray) in Fulfulde, the language of the Fulbe. I have only to mention
that it never refers to any but Arabs or Europeans.
Vol. i.__a a

370 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
was carried on, was of great importance. But the chief duty
of the " serki-n-turawa," at the present time, is to accompany
annually the salt-caravan of the Kel-geres, which supplies the
western part of Middle Sudan with the salt of Bilma, from A'ga
des to Sokoto, and to protect it on the road as wellas to secure
it against exorbitant exactions on the part of the Fulbe of So
koto. For this trouble he receives one " kantu," that is to say,
the eighth part (eight kantu weighing three Turkish kantars or
quintals) of a middle-sized camel-load, a contribution which
forms a considerable income in this country, probably of from
eight to ten thousand Spanish dollars, the caravan consisting
generally of some thousand camels, not aU equaUy laden, and
the kantu of salt fetching in Sudan from five thousand to seven
and eight thousand kurdi or sheUs, which are worth from two
to three dollars. Under such circumstances, those officers,
who at the same time trade on their own account, can not but
amass considerable wealth. Mohammed Boro, as weU as
A'shu, are very rich, considering the circumstances of the coun
try. After having escorted the salt-caravan to Sokoto, and settled
the business with the Emir of this place, the serki-n-turawa in
former times had to go to Kano, where he received a small por
tion of the six hundred kurdi, the duty levied on each slave
brought to the slave-market, after which he returned to A'ga
des with the Kel-geres that had frequented the market of Kan6;
I had full opportunity, in the further course of my journey, to
convince myself that such is not now the case ; but I can not
say what is the reason of this custom having been discontinued,
though it may be the dangerous state of the road between So
koto and Kano. Mohammed Boro, the former serki-n-turawa,
has still residences as weU in Kano and Zinder as in Sokoto
and A'gades.
From what I have said, it is clear that at present the serki-
n-turawa has much more to do with the Tawarek and Fulbe
than with the Arabs, and at the same time is a sort of mediator
between A'gades and Sokoto.
Of the other persons in connection with the sultan, the " ko-

THE TOWN, ITS POPULATION. 371
koy kaina" or " baba-n-serki"* (the chief eunuch), at present
A'magay, the fadawa-n-serki (the aides-de-camp of the sultan),
as well as the kadhi or alkali, and the war-chief Sidi Ghalli, I
have spoken in the diary of my residence in the place.
I have already stated above that the southern part of the
town, which at present is almost entirely deserted, formed the
oldest quarter, while Katanga, or baki-n-birni," seems to have
been its northern limit. Within these limits the town was
about two miles in circuit, and when thickly peopled may have
contained about thirty thousand inhabitants ; but, after the
northern quarter was added, the whole town had a circuit of
about three miles and a half, and may easUy have mustered as
many as fifty thousand inhabitants, or even more. The high
est degree of power seems to have been attained before the con
quest of the town by Mohammed A'skia in the year 1515,
though it is said to have been a considerable and wealthy place
till about sixty years ago (reckoned from 1850), when the great
est part of the inhabitants emigrated to the neighboring towns
of Hausa, chiefly Katsena, Tasawa, Maradi, and Kano. The
exact circumstances which brought about this deplorable deser
tion and desolation of the place I was not able to learn ; and
the date of the event can not be made to coincide with the pe
riod of the great revolution effected in Middle Sudan by the ris
ing of the Jihadi, "the reformer," 'Othman da-n-F6diye, which
it preceded by more than fifteen years ; but it coincides with or
closely follows upon an event which I shall have to dweU upon
in the further course of my proceedings. This is the conquest
of G'ao or Gogo (the former capital of the Songhay empire, and
which since 1591 had become a province of the empire of Mo
rocco) by the Tawarek. As we have seen above that A'gades
had evidently been founded as an entrepot for the great trade
with this most flourishing commercial place on the Tsa or Ni
ger, at that time the centre of the gold-trade, of course the
Kokoy kaina" properly means the little master, a very appropriate term for
a eunuch in an Oriental court. The homonymy of baba-n-serki, the chief eu
nuch, and baba-n-serki, the great lord or king, in the Hausa language, is really
provoking.

372

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

ransacking and wholesale destruction of this town could not
but affect in the most serious manner the well-being of A'ga
des, cutting away the very roots through which it received
life. At present I still think that I was not far wrong in estimat
ing the number of the inhabited houses at from six hundred to
seven hundred, and the population at about seven thousand,
though it must be borne in mind that, as the inhabitants have
stiU preserved their trading character, a great many of the male
inhabitants are always absent from home, a circumstance which
reduces the armed force of the place to about six hundred. A
numerical element capable of controlling the estimated amount
of the population is offered by the number of from two hundred
and fifty to three hundred well-bred boys, who, at the time of
my visit, were learning a little reading and writing in five or six
schools scattered over the town ; for it is not every boy who is
sent to school, but only those belonging to families in easy cir-

lMila
1. House where I lodged.
2. Great mosque or Mesallaje.
3. Palace or Fada.
4. Kaswa-n-delelti or Tama-n-lokoy.
6. Kaswa-n-rakoma.
6. Katanga.
7. Erarar-n-zakan.

8. Mohammed Boro's house.
9. House of the Kadhi.
10. Well Shedwanka.
11. Pools of stagnant water.
12. Kdfa-n-Alkali.
13. Masrata hogiime.
14. Suburb of Ben Gottara.

NAMES OF THE TOWN. 373
cumstances, and they are aU about the same age, from eight to
ten years old.
With regard to the names of the quarters of the town, which
are interesting in an historical point of view, I was not able to
learn exactly the application of each of the names, and I am
sure very few even of the inhabitants themselves can now tell
the Hmits of the quarters, on account of the desolate state of
many of them. The principal names which can be laid down
with certainty in the plan are Masrata, Gobetaren, Gawa-Ngir-
su, Digi or Degi, Katanga, Terjeman, and Arrafia, which com
prise the southwestern quarter of the town. The names of the
other quarters, which I attempted to lay down on the plan sent
to government together with my report, I now deem it prudent
to withdraw, as I afterward found that there was some uncer
tainty about them. I therefore collect here, for the information
of future travelers, the names of the other quarters of the place
besides those mentioned above and marked in the plan — Lare-
log, Churud, Hasena, Amarewuel, Imurdan (which name, I was
assured afterward, has nothing in common with the name of the
tribe of the Imghad), Tafimata (the quarter where the tribe of
the same name lived), Tobimme (" yobu-me," meaning the
mouth of the market), Degi-n-bene, or the Upper Degi, and Bo-
senrara. Kachiyw (not Kachiw) seems to have been originally
the name of a pool ; as I was assured that, besides the three
ponds stiU visible, there were formerly seven others, namely,
Kuduru, Kachiyu, Chikinewan, Langusu-gazara, Kurungusu,
and Eabafada — this latter in the square of the palace.
The whole ground upon which the town is buUt (being the
edge of a table-land, which coincides with the transition from
granite to sandstone*) seems to be greatly impregnated with
salt at a certain depth, of which not only the ponds, but even
the wells bear evidence, two of the three wells stiU in use hav
ing saltish water, and only that of Shedwanka being, as to
* Unfortunately, I was unable to ascertain the elevation of the locality by ob
servation, as I could only take a common thermometer with me on this trip ;
but, considering the whole ground along the road from Tintellust, I think it can
scarcely be less than 2500 feet.

374 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
taste, free from salt, though it is still regarded as unwholesome,
and all the water used for drinking is brought from the wens
outside the waUs. Formerly, it is said, there were nine wells
inside the town.
From what I have said above, it may be concluded that the
commerce of A'gades is now inconsiderable. Its characteristic
feature is, that no kind of money whatever is current in the
market, neither gold, nor silver, nor kurdi, nor shells ; while
strips of cotton or gabaga (the Kanuri, and not the Hausa term
being employed in this case, because the small quantity of this
stuff which is current is imported from the northwestern prov
ince of Bornu) are very rare, and, indeed, form almost as merely
nominal a standard as the mithkal. Nevertheless, the value of
the mithkal is divided into ten rijals or erjel, which measure
means eight dr'a or cubits of gabaga. The real standard of the
market, I must repeat, is miUet or dukhn (" gero" in Hausa,
" eneli" in Temashight, Pennisetum typhoideum), durra or Roi-
cus sorghum, being scarcely ever brought to market. And it is
very remarkable that with this article a man may buy every
thing at a much cheaper rate than with merchandise, which in
general fetches a low price in the place ; at least it did so dur
ing my stay, when the market had been weU stocked with ev
ery thing in demand by the people who had come along with
us. English calico of very good quality was sold by me at
twenty per cent, less than it had been bought for at Murzuk.
Senna in former times formed an article of export of some im
portance ; but the price which it fetches on the coast has so de
creased that it scarcely pays the carriage, the distance from the
coast being so very great, and it scarcely formed at all an arti
cle in request here, nor did we meet on our whole journey a
single camel laden with it, though it grows in considerable
quantities in the valleys hereabouts.
A'gades is in no respect a place of resort for wealthy mer
chants, not even Arabs, while with regard to Europe its im
portance at present consists in its lying on the most direct road
to Sokoto and that part of Sudan. In my opinion it would
form for a European agent a very good and comparatively

MARKET PRICES. 375
healthy place from which to open relations with Central Africa.
The native merchants seem only to visit the markets of Kat
sena, Tasawa, Maradi, Kano, and Sokoto, and, as far as I was
able to leam, never go to the northern markets of Ghat or Mur
zuk unless on a journey to Mekka, which several of them have
made. Neither does there seem to exist any intercourse at
present with Gagho or Gogo, or with Timbuktu ; but the Arabs
of Azawad and those parts, when undertaking a pilgrimage,
generally go by way of A'gades.
I here add the prices of different articles, as they were sold in
the market during my residence in the place : Mithkal.' Bejel.
Dukhn "gero" {Pennisetum), or durra "dawa" {sorghum), twenty
zekka, being equal to forty of the measure used in Tintellust... 1 0
Eice, ten zekka  1 0
Camel, a young one, two years old, not yet fit for carrying loads  18 0
Ditto, full grown  25 0
Horse, a good strong one  100 0
Ditto, a fine one, of Tawat breed  1000 0
Ass  6 to 8 0
Ox  8 0
Calf  4 0
Earn  1 5
Sandals, a pair of common ones  0 1
Ditto, a pair of fine ones  0 5
Camel-saddle (or "rakhla" in Arabic, "kigi" in Temashight)  10 0
Ditto, a common one  '.  5 0
Leather bag, of colored leather, for containing clothes  1 0
Mat, a fine colored one  0 6
Enghsh calico, ten dr'a or cubits  1 0
Subeta, or white Egyptian shawl with red border  1 0
Kornu, or the fine Egyptian colored sheep-leather, a piece  1 0
Tiirkedi, or the dark-colored cotton cloth for female dress of Kano
manufacture, common  2 0
Ditto, of finer texture  3 to 5 3
I must here add that I did not observe that the people of
A'gades use manna in their food, nor that it is collected in the
neighborhood of the town ; but I did not inquire about it on the
spot, not having taken notice of the passage of Leo relating
to it
* The mithkal of A'gades is equal to 1000 kurdi, 2500 of which make a Span
ish or Austrian dollar.

376 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
My stay in A'gades was too short to justify my entering into
detail about the private life of the people, but all that I saw con
vinced me that, although open to most serious censure on the
part of the moralist, it presented many striking features of cheer
fulness and happiness, and nothing like the misery which is
often met with in towns which have declined from their former
glory. It still contains many active germs of national life,
which are most gratifying to the philosophic traveler. The sit
uation, on an elevated plateau, can not but be healthy, as the
few waterpools, of small dimensions, are incapable of infecting
the air. The disease which I have mentioned in my diary as
prevalent at the time of my sojourn was epidemic. Besides, it
must be borne in mind that the end of the rainy season every
where in the tropical regions is the most unhealthy period of the
year.*

CHAPTER XIX.
DEPARTURE FROM AGADES. — STAT TN TIN-TEGGANA.
Wednesday, October 30th. We at length left A'gades. I felt
as if I had enjoyed a glimpse of a totally different world, a new
region of life, many relations of which were as yet obscure to
me. Timbuktu, which was in the background of this novel and
living picture, seemed almost an unattainable object. An ac
quaintance with it would not fail to throw light upon this ad
vanced post of Songhay nationality and its state of civilization;
but at that time I little expected that it would be my destiny
to dwell a year in that mysterious place, and I had even reason
to doubt the possibility of reaching it from this quarter. All
my thoughts were bent on the south ; and although at present
retracing my steps toward the north, yet, as it carried me back
In an appendix will be given some routes which connect A'gades with other
places, and, radiating from it in various directions, serve as rays of light to dis
cover to us districts not yet visited by any European.

AN INCIDENT.— LIONS. 377
to our head-quarters, whence I might soon expect to start for
the southern regions, I regarded it as a step in advance.
But the commencement of the journey was most abortive, and
made me rather regret that I had not spent the day in the town.
Hamma was unable to find some of the asses belonging to the
caravan, for the simple reason that our friend Zummuzuk had
sold them ; and the whole day was lost, so that we encamped
after a march of scarcely two miles and a half. Here we were
joined by Ibrahim and by a very amiable, intelligent Kel-owi
of the name of Eabbot, who informed me that to the east of the
valley Tefarrakad there were several other valleys not at all in
ferior to it in exuberance and variety of vegetation. As the
most important among them he named to me A'mdegra, E'dob,
Tewarni, Tindawen, and Asagatay.
When at length, on Thursday morning, we fairly began our
journey, we followed entirely our old road, Hamma being anx
ious to get home ; but nevertheless, as the mountains and ridges
which characterize this region now met the eyes from the other
side, the scenery was a good deal varied, and I had frequent op
portunities of completing my map of this part of the country.
Besides, we chose our encampments in new localities ; and many
little incidents varied our journey, the most interesting of which
was the approach of a party of five lions in the vaUey Bfidde,
when Hamma called us to arms. He, Eabbot, Mohammed, and
I advanced to meet them, but "they soon turned their backs,
leaping over the rocky ground toward their mountain retreat.
The lion of Air does not seem to be a very ferocious animal,
and, like those of all this border-region of the desert, has no
mane — that is to say, as compared with other lions. The mane-
less lion of Guzerat is well known, but a similar species seems
also to occur in Sind and Persia. The lion of Central Africa,
at least of Bornu and Logon, has a beautiful mane ; and the
skin of a lion of that region, which I took with me on my jour
ney to western Sudan, excited the admiration of all who saw it.
The valley Tiggeda had now a very different aspect from that
which it wore when we were going to A'gades ; for while at that
hnie, beautiful as it was, it was not enlivened by a single hu-

378 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
man being, now, at its very head, we met a considerable cara
van of Kel-owi laden with salt, and accompanied by a herd of
young camels to be bartered in the market of A'gades for corn,
and farther on we found a herd of from sixty to seventy cattle,
and numerous flocks of goats, indulging in the rich herbage
which had previously excited my astonishment. Our minds
likewise were here excited by the important news that the old
chief of Tintellust had started for Sudan, not only with my fel
low-travelers, but with the whole caravan ; but while my fiery
and frivolous Mohammed heaped conjecture upon conjecture,
meditating how we should be able to reach them, Hamma, who
knew his father-in-law better, and who was conscious of his
own importance and dignity, remained incredulous. We had
some very pretty mountain-views from this side, especially when
we approached Mount Eghellal, behind which the Bunday and
other mountains rose into view.
On the morning of the 5th of November, which was to be
the day of our arrival in Tintellust, it was so cold that we start
ed rather late, Hamma simply declaring that the cold did not
allow him to go on — " Dari yahanna fatauchi." Having start
ed at length, we made a long day's march, and after eleven hours
and a half traveling reached the well-known sand-hill opposite
Tintellust, where our encampment had staid so long, not by
the great road along the valley, but by " The Thief's Passage,"
in order to observe before we were observed.
But the residence of the great chief A'nnur was buried in the
deepest silence ; the courtiers, the blacksmiths, all the great men
and ladies had gone away. Hamma went to see if any body
remained behind, while we cooked our rice, and prepared to make
ourselves comfortable for the night. That, however, was out of
the question; for, when he returned, he ordered us to decamp at
once; and though nothing is more dreadful than a night's march,
particularly when it succeeds to a long day's journey, yet in the
enthusiasm awakened by the thought of going southward, I,
with all my heart, joined in the exclamation, " Se fatauchi se
Kano !" ("no rest before Kano" — properly, "nothing but travel
ing, nothing but Kano!")

TIN-TE'GGANA. 379
It was ten o'clock in the evening when we started again along
the broad vaUey, taking leave forever of "the English Hill;"
but I soon began to suffer from the consequences of fatigue. In
order to avoid falling from my camel in my drowsy state, I was
obliged to drag myseH along a great part of the night on foot,
which was not at aU agreeable, as the ground was at times very
rugged, and covered with long grass. Having crossed a rocky
flat, we entered, about four o'clock in the morning, the wide
plain of Tin-teggana, stumbling along through the thick cover
of bu-rekkeba and other sorts of herbage, till dawn, coming on
with rather chiUy air, revealed to our benumbed senses the en
campment of the caravan. Having therefore made repeated
halts, to give the people time to recognize us, in order not to
occasion any alarm, as our leader Hamma was not with us, but
had lain down at the road side to get a few hours' rest; we made
straight for the two European tents, which showed us precisely
the residence of my fellow-travelers. The old chief A'nnur
was up, and received me with great kindness — more kindly,
I must say, than my coUeagues, who apparently felt some jeal
ousy on account of the success which had attended my pro
ceedings. Having once more taken possession of the weU-known home
of our little tent, I preferred looking about the encampment to
lying down, for sleeping after sunrise is not agreeable to me.
The valley Tin-teggana, wherein A'nnur, with his people, was
encamped, is in this place about three miles broad, being bor
dered toward the east by a low range of hills, with the small cone
of A'dode rising to a greater elevation ; toward the west, by the
Bunday and some smaller mountains ; toward the south, where
the ground rises, it is lined by more detached peaks, while on
the north side an open view extends down the valley as far as
the large mountain mass which borders the valley of Tintellust
on the north. Altogether it was a fine open landscape, em
bracing the country which forms the nucleus, if I may say so,
of the domain of the old chief, whose camels pasture here the
whole year round, whUe he himself usually takes up his resi
dence in this place about this season, when nature is in its

380 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
prime, and the weather becomes cool, in order to enjoy the coun
try air.
We ourselves had as yet no idea of making a long stay here,
but indulged in the hope of starting the next day, when all of
a sudden, about noon, our old friend declared solemnly that he
was unable to go with us at present, that he himself was obliged
to wait for the salt-caravan, while his confidential slave Zinghi-
na was now to go southward. He said that, if we chose, we
might go on with the latter. He supposed, perhaps, that none
of us would dare to do so ; but when I insisted upon it after
ward, he, as well as Zinghina, declared that the attempt was too
dangerous ; and it would have been absurd to insist on ac
companying the slave. For the moment such a disappoint
ment was very trying. However, I afterward perceived that,
though we had lost more than a month of the finest season for
traveling, we had thereby acquired aU possible security for
safely attaining the object of our journey ; for now we were
obliged to send off aU our luggage with Zinghina in advance,
and might fully expect to travel with infinitely more ease and
less trouble when no longer encumbered with things which,
though of little value, nevertheless attracted the cupidity of the
people. At the time, however, even this was not at aU agreea
ble, as Overweg and I had to part with almost aU our things,
and to send them on to Kano, to the care of a man of whose
character we knew nothing.
Friday, November 8th. Nearly all the Arabs and many of
the Kel-owi started ; and it awakened some feeling of regret to
see them go and to be ourselves obliged to stay behind. Our
friend Musa, who had been the most faithful of our Tinylkum
camel-drivers, who had visited us almost daily in our tent, and
from whom we had obtained so much valuable information,*
was the last to take leave of us. But, as soon as the caravan
was out of sight, I determined to make the best possible use of
* I am sorry that a long letter on the topography of the country (written chiefly
from Musa's information), which I sent to Europe, appears never to have arrived.
It is for this reason that I am unable to lay down with some degree of accuracy
that part of the country of A'sben which I did not visit myself.

STAY IN TIN-TE'GGANA. 381
this involuntary leisure by sifting elaborately the varied in
formation which I had been able to coUect in A'gades, and by
sending a full report to Europe, in order to engage the interest
of the scientific public in our expedition, and to justify her maj
esty's government in granting us new supplies, without which,
after our heavy losses, we should be obliged to return directly,
leaving the chief objects of the expedition unattained. Owing
to this resolution, our quiet life in A'sben was not, I hope, with
out its fruits.
Our encampment, too, became more cheerful and agreeable
when, on the foUowing day, we transferred it to the koramma
Ofayet, a beautiful Httle branch wadi of the spacious valley Tin-
teggana, issuing from a defile (a " kogo-n-dutsi") formed by the
Bunday and a lower mount to the south, along which led the
path to A'sodi. It was most densely wooded with talha-trees,
and overgrown with tall bu-rekkeba and allwot, and was thinned
only very gradually, as immense branches and whole trees were
cut down daily to feed the fires during the night ; for it was at
times extremely cold, and we felt most comfortable when in the
evening we stretched ourselves in front of our tents, round an

382 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
enormous fire. The tall herbage also was by degrees consumed,
not only by the camels, but by the construction of small coni
cal huts ; so that gradually a varied and pleasant Httle village
sprang up in this wild spot, which is represented in the pre
ceding woodcut. The time which we were obliged to stay
here would indeed have passed by most pleasantly but for the
trouble occasioned to Overweg and myself by our impudent and
dissolute Tunisian half-caste servant, who had become quite in
supportable. Unfortunately, we did not find an opportunity of
sending him back ; and I thought it best to take him with me
to Kano, where I was sure to get rid of him. Our other servant
Ibrahim, also, though much more prudent, was not at aU trust
worthy, which was the more to be regretted, as he had traveled
all over Hausa, and even as far as Gonja, and might have proved
of immense service. But, fortunately, I had another servant —
a thin youth of most unattractive appearance, but who never
theless was the most useful attendant I ever had ; and, though
young, he had roamed about a great deal over the whole eastern
half of the desert, and shared in many adventures of the most
serious kind. He possessed, too, a strong sense of honor, and
was perfectly to be relied upon. This was Mohammed el Ga-
troni, a native of Gatron, in the southern part of Fezzan, who,
with a short interruption (when I sent him to Murzuk with the
late Mr. Bichardson's papers and effects), remained in my serv
ice till I returned to Fezzan in 1855.
The zeal with which I had commenced finishing my report
was well rewarded ; for on the 14th the Ghadamsi merchant
Abu Bakr el Wakhshi (an old man whom I shall have occasion
to mention repeatedly in the course of my journey) came to A'n
nur to complain of a robbery committed upon part of his mer
chandise at Tasawa. But for this circumstance he would not
have touched at this place, and his people, whom he was send
ing to Ghadames, would have traveled along the great road by
A'sodi without our knowing any thing about them. Being as
sured by the trustworthy old man that the parcel would reach
Ghadames in two months, I sent off the first part of my report;
but, unfortunately, it arrived at that place when her majesty's

GENERAL TURBULENCE. 383
agent, Mr. Charles Dickson, to whom I had addressed it, was
absent in Tripoli, the consequence being that it lay there for
several months.
In the course of the 15th, while sitting quietly in my tent, I
suddenly heard my name, " 'Abd el Kerim," pronounced by a
well-known voice, and, looking out, to my great astonishment
saw the little sturdy figure of my friend Hamma trotting along
at a steady pace, his iron spear in his hand. I thought he was
gone to Bilma, as we had been told ; but it appeared that, hav
ing come up with the salt-caravan at the commencement of the
Hammada, he only supplied them with more corn, and having
conferred with them, had come back to assist his old father-in-
law in the arduous task of keeping the turbulent tribes in some
state of quiet. The degree of secrecy with which every thing
is done in this wild country is indeed remarkable, and no doubt
contributes in a great measure to the influence and power of the
sagacious chief of TinteUust.
Four days later came my other friend, the foolish Moham
med, who had accompanied the expedition of the Sultan of
A'gades, and who was fuU of interesting details of this little
campaign. Neither Astafidet, the prince of the Kel-owi, nor
Abd el Kader, the sultan residing in A'gades, actually took
part in the attack or "sukkua," but kept at a distance. On
asking my merry friend what was the result of the whole, and
whether the state of the country to the north was now settled
and the road secure, he exclaimed, with a significant grimace,
"Babu dadi" (not very pleasant) ; and to what extent strength
was sacrificed to euphony in this expression we were soon to
learn ; for the next day the " makeria," the wife of the " make-
n Eliyas, came to tell us that a ghazzia of the E'fadaye had
suddenly fallen upon Tin-tagh-ode, and had carried off two large
droves (gerki) of camels and all the movable property. Such
is the state of this country, where the chiefs, instead of punish
ing systematicaUy the rebels and marauders, regard such in
stances of crime only as opportunities for enriching themselves
with plunder. The E'fadaye do not muster more than from
two hundred to three hundred spears, but they are generally

384 ' TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
assisted by the I'gammen and E'delen, two of the tribes of the
Imghad whom I mentioned above.
The next day the old chief, accompanied by Hamma and
.seven other trusty companions, set out for Tinteyyat, in order
to consult with the old m'aUem Azori, "the wise man of Air,"
about the means of preventing the bad consequences likely to
arise from the turbulent state into which the country had fallen
just when he was about to set out for Sudan.
The old chief, on his return from his important consultation,
gave us some interesting information about "the Lion of Tin
teyyat" (Azori). Azori, he said, had attained the highest de
gree of wisdom and learning, comprehending all divine and hu
man things, without ever leaving the country of Air. He was
now nearly blind, though younger in years than himself. His
father had likewise been a very wise man. Formerly, accord
ing to our friend, there was another great m'aUem in the coun
try, named Hami, a native of Tin-tagh-ode, and as long as he
lived, the AnisHmen, his fellow-citizens, had been good people
and followed the way of justice, while at present their name
" Anislim" was become a mere mockery, for they were the worst
of the lawless, and had lost aU fear of God ; indeed, almost all
the troubles into which the country had been plunged might be
ascribed to their agency and intrigues. Here the old chief had
touched on his favorite theme, and he gave vent to aU his an
ger and wrath against those holy men, who were evidently op
posed to his authority.
The old man was, in fact, on the most friendly terms with us,
and instead of being suspicious of our "writing down his coun
try," was anxious to correct any erroneous idea which we might
entertain respecting it. I shaU never forget with what pleas
ure he looked over my sketch of the route from TinteUust to
A'gades, while I explained to him the principal features of it ;
and he felt a proud satisfaction in seeing a stranger from a far
distant country appreciate the peculiar charms of the glens and
mountains of his own native land. He was, in short, so pleased
with our manners and our whole demeanor that one day, after
he had been reposing in my tent and chatting with me, he sent

•CONVERSATION ON RELIGION. 385
for Yusuf, and told him plainly that he apprehended that our
religion was better than theirs ; whereupon the Arab explained
to him that our manners indeed were excellent, but that our re
ligious creed had some great defects, in violating the unity of
the Almighty God, and elevating one of His prophets from his
real rank of servant of God to that of His Son. A'nnur, rising
a little from his couch, looked steadily into Yusuf's face, and
said, " ha.kkana.nne" (is it so) ? As for me, in order not to pro
voke a disputation with Yusuf, who united in himself some of
the most amiable with some of the most hateful qualities, I kept
silence as long as he was present ; but when he retired I ex
plained to the chief that, as there was' a great variety of sects
among the Mohammedans, so there was also among the Chris
tians, many of whom laid greater stress upon the unimpaired
unity of the Creator than even the Mohammedans. So much
sufficed for the justification of our religion, for the old man did
not like to talk much upon the subject, though he was strict in
his prayers, as far as we were able to observe. He was a man
of business, who desired to maintain some sort of order in a
country where every thing naturally inclines to turbulence and
disorder. In other respects he allowed every man to do as he
liked ; and, notwithstanding his practical severity, he was rather
of a mild disposition, for he thought Europeans dreadful barba
rians for slaughtering without pity such numbers of people in
their battles, using big guns instead of spears and swords, which
were, as he thought, the only manly and becoming weapons.
The 25th of November was a great market-day for our little
settlement, for on the preceding day the long-expected caravan
with provisions arrived from Damerghu, and all the people were
buying their necessary supply ; but we had much difficulty in
obtaining what we wanted, as all our things, even the few dol
lars we had still left, were depreciated, and estimated at more
than thirty per cent, less than their real value. After having
recovered in A'gades a little from the weakness of my stomach,
"J the aid of the princely dishes sent me by 'Abd el Kader, I
had, notwithstanding the fine cool weather, once more to suffer
horn the effects of our almost raw and bitter dishes of Guinea-
Vol. I._B b

386 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
corn, and the more so as I had no tea left to wash down this
unpalatable and indigestible paste ; and I felt more than com
mon delight when we were regaled on the 27th by a fine strong
soup made from the meat of the bullock which we had bought
from A'nnur for twelve thousand kurdi. It was a day of great
rejoicing, and a new epoch in our peaceful and dull existence,
in consequence of which I found my health greatly restored.
Our patience, indeed, was tried to the utmost ; and I looked
for some moments with a sort of despair into Hamma's face,
when, on his return from a mission to the E'fadaye, which seem
ed not to have been quite successful, he told me, on the 28th of
November, that we should stiU make a stay here of twenty-five
days. Fortunately, he always chose to view things on the worst
side ; and I was happy to be assured by the old chief himself
that our stay here would certainly not exceed fifteen days. Nev
ertheless, as the first short days of our sham traveling afterward
convinced me, the veracious Hamma, who had never deceived
me, was in reality quite right in his statement. My friend came
to take leave of me as he went to absent himself for a few days,
in order to visit an elder sister of his, who lived in Telishiet,
farther up the valley of Tin-teggana, and, of course, I had to
supply him with some handsome little production of European
manufacture. We had fuU reason to admire the energy of the old chief,
who, on the 30th of November, went to a " privy council" with
M'allem Azori and Sultan Astafidet, which was appointed to be
held in some solitary glen, half way between Tin-teggana and
A'sodi, and, after he had returned late in the evening on the 1st
of December, was galloping along our encampment in the morn
ing of the 2d, in order to visit the new watering-place lower
down in the principal valley, the former well beginning to dry
up, or, rather, requiring to be dug to a greater depth, as the
moisture collected during the rainy season was graduaUy reced
ing. This was the first time we saw our friend on horseback ;
and, though he was seventy-six years of age, he sat very well
and upright in his saddle. Overweg went on one of the follow
ing days to see the well (which was about four miles distant

PREPARATIONS FOR STARTING. 387
from our encampment, in a W.N.W. direction, beyond a little
village of the name of O'brasen), but found it rather a basin
formed between the rocky cliffs, and fed, according to report, by
a spring. Meanwhile I was surprised to learn from Mohammed Byrji,
A'nnur's grandson, and next claimant to the succession after
Haj Abduwa, that the last-named, together with El U'su or
Lusu, the influential chief of Azaneres, and El Hossen, had
started for the south six days previously, in order to purchase
provisions for the salt-caravan. In this little country some
thing is always going on, and the people aU appear to lead a
very restless life ; what wonder, then, if most of them are the
progeny of wayfarers, begotten from fortuitous and short-lived
matches? Perhaps in no country is domestic life wanting to
such a degree as among the Kel-owi, properly so called ; but it
would be wrong to include in this category the tribes of purer
blood living at some distance from this centre of the salt-trade.
At length, on the 5th of December, tlie first body of the salt-
caravan arrived from Bilma, opening the prospect of a speedy
departure from this our African home ; but, although we were
very eager to obtain a glance at them, they did not become vis
ible, but kept farther to the west. The following evening, how
ever, several friends and partisans of the old chief arrived, mount
ed on mehara, and were received by the women with loud, shrUl
cries of welcome (" tirlelak" in Temashight), very similar to the
"tehlil" of the Arabs.
Preparations were now gradually made for our setting out ;
but previously it was necessary to provide a supply of water,
not only for the immediate use of the numerous salt-caravan,
but for the constant one of those people who were to remain
behind during the absence of their chief and master. Accord
ingly, on the 7th of December, the old chief left our encamp
ment, with all his people, in solemn procession, in order to dig a
new well ; and, after having long searched with a spear for the
most favorable spot, they set to work close to the entrance of a
small branch wadi, joining the main valley from the east side,
not far from A'dode ; and, having obtained a sufficient supply

388 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of water, they walled the well in with branches and stones, so
that it was capable of retaining water at least till the beginning
of the next rainy season, when, most probably, the floods would
destroy it. There are, indeed, in these countries, very few un
dertakings of this kind, the existence of which is calculated upon
for more than a year.
Meanwhile, during our long, lazy stay in this tranquil alpine
retreat of the wilderness, after I had finished my report on A'ga
des, I began to study in a more comprehensive way the inter
esting language of that place, and, in order to effect that pur
pose, had been obliged to make a sort of treaty with that shame
less profligate Ztimmuzuk, who, for his exploits in A'gades, had
received severe punishment from his master. The chief condi
tions of our covenant were, that he was to receive every day a
certain allowance, but that, during his presence in my tent, he
was not to move from the place assigned him, the limits of
which were very accurately defined — of course, at a respectable
distance from my luggage ; and if he touched any thing, I was
officially permitted by A'nnur to shoot him on the spot. Not
withstanding the coolness and reserve which I. was obliged to
adopt in my intercourse with this man, I was fully capable of
estimating his veracity, and in the course of my journey and re
searches I convinced myself that in no one instance did he de
viate from the truth.
Going on in this way, I had completed, by the 8th of the
month, an exact and full vocabulary of the Emgedesi language,
and could with more leisure indulge in a conversation with my
friend A'magay, the chief eunuch and 'confidential servant of the
Sultan of A'gades, who paid me a visit, and brought me the most
recent news from the capital. Affairs were all in the best state,
his business now being merely to arrange a few matters with
A'nnur before the latter set out for Sudan. He informed' me
that the salt-caravan of Kel-geres and Itisan had long ago re
turned from Bilma, taking with them our letter to the Sultan
of Sokoto, and accompanied by Mohammed Boro, who had taken
all his children with him except those who were still attending
school. A'magay had also brought with him the curious letter

FINAL DEPARTURE FOR SUDA'N. 389
from Mustapha, the governor of Fezzan, which is spoken of by
Mr. Eichardson. I treated him with some coffee (which was now
with me a very precious article, as I had but little left), and
made him a smaU present.

CHAPTEE XX.
FINAL DEPAETUEE FOE SUDAN.
Thursday, December 12th, 1850. Safer 1th, 1266. At
length the day broke when we were to move on and get nearer
the longed-for object of our journey, though we were aware that
our first progress would be slow. But before we departed from
this region, which had become so familiar to us, I wished to
take a last glimpse down the valley toward Tintellust, and wan
dered toward the offshoots of Mount Bunday, which afforded
me a fine prospect over the whole valley up to that beautiful
mountain mass which forms so characteristic a feature in the
configuration of the whole country. The hills which I ascend
ed consisted of basalt, and formed a low ridge, which was sepa
rated from the principal mountain mass by a hollow of sand
stone formation. Having bid farewell to the blue mountains
of Tintellust, I took leave of the charming Httle valley Ofayet,
which, having been a few moments previously a busy scene of
life, was now left to silence and solitude.
Late in the morning we began to move, but very slowly, halt
ing every now and then. At length the old chief himself came
np, walking like a young man before his meheri, which he led
by the nose-cord, and the varied groups composing the caravan
began to march more steadily. It was a whole nation in mo
tion, the men on camels or on foot, the women on bullocks or
on asses, with all the necessaries of the little household, as weU
as the houses themselves — a herd of cattle, another of mUk-
goats, and numbers of young camels running playfully along
side, and sometimes getting between the regular lines of the
laden camels. The ground was very rocky and rugged, and

390 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
looked bare and desolate in the extreme, the plain being strewn
for a while with loose basaltic stones, like the plain of Taghist.
Several high peaks characterize this volcanic region; and
having left to our right the peak called Ebarrasa, we encamped,
a little before noon, at the northeastern foot of a very conspicu
ous peak called Teleshera, which had long attracted my atten
tion. We had scarcely chosen our ground when I set out on
foot in order to ascend this high mountain, from which I ex
pected to obtain a view over the eastern side of the picturesque
mass of the EgheUal ; but its ascent proved very difficult, chief
ly because I had not exerted my strength much during our long
stay in this country. The flanks of the peak, after I had as
cended the offshoots, which consisted of sandstone, were most
precipitous and abrupt, and covered with loose stones, which
gave way under my feet, and often carried me a long way down.
The summit consisted of perpendicular trachytic pillars, of quad
rangular and almost regular form, 2^ feet in thickness, as if cut
by the hand of man, some of them about one hundred feet high,
whUe others had been broken off at greater or less height. It
is at least 1500 feet above the bottom of the valley. The view
was interesting, although the sky was not clear ; I was able to
take several angles, but the western flank of the Eghellal, which
I was particularly anxious to obtain a sight of, was covered by
other heights.
Beyond the branch wadi which surrounds this mountain on
the south side there is a ridge ranging to a greater length, and
rising from the ground with a very precipitous waU ; this was
examined by Mr. Overweg, and found to consist likewise of
trachyte, interspersed with black basaltic stone and crystals of
glassy feldspar. Having attained my purpose, I began my re
treat, but found the descent more troublesome than the ascent,
particularly as my boots were torn to pieces by the sharp
stones ; and the fragments giving way under my feet, I feU re
peatedly. I was quite exhausted when I reached the tent, but
a cup of strong coffee soon restored me. However, I never aft
erward, on my whole journey, felt strong enough to ascend a
mountain of moderate elevation.

VALLEY OF TATCNEGAT. 391
Friday, December 13th. Starting rather late, we continued
through the mountainous region, generaUy ascending, while a
cold wind made our old friend the chief shiver and regard with
feelings of envy my thick black bemus, although he had got
bemuses enough from us not only to protect him against cold,
but us too against any envious feeling for the little which wa3
left us. Farther on, in several places the granite (which at the
bottom of the vaUey alternates with sandstone) was perfectly
disintegrated, and had become Hke meal. Here the passage
narrowed for about an hour, when we obtained a view of a long
range stretching out before us, with a considerable cone lying in
front of it. Keeping now over rocky ground, then along the
bottom of a valley caUed Tanegat, about half a mile broad,
where we passed a weU on our right, we at length reached a
mountain spur starting off from the ridge on our right, and en
tered a beautiful broad plain stretching out to the foot of a con
siderable mountain group, which was capped by a remarkable
picturesquely-indented cone called Mari. Here we saw the nu
merous camels of the salt-caravan grazing in the distance to our
left ; and after having crossed a small rocky flat, we encamped
in the very channel of the torrent, being certain that at this sea
son no such danger as overwhelmed us in the valley E'ghazar
was to be feared. A'magay, who was still with us, paid me a
visit in the afternoon, and had a cup of coffee ; he also came the
next morning. Near our encampment were some fine acacia-
trees of the species called gawo, which I shall have to mention
repeatedly in my travels.
Saturday, December 14th. We started early, but encamped,
after a short march of about six miles, on uneven ground inter
sected by numbers of small ridges. The reason of the halt
was, that the whole of the caravan was to come up and to join
together ; and our old chief here put on his official dress (a yel
low bernus of good quaHty), to show his dignity as leader of
such a host of people.
Salt forms the only article conveyed by this caravan. The
form of the largest cake is very remarkable ; but it must be
borne in mind that the salt in Bilma is in a fluid state, and is

392 TRAVELS EST AFRICA.
formed into this shape by pouring it into a wooden mould.
This pedestal or loaf of salt (kantu) is equal to five of the
smaller cakes, which are called aserim, and each aserim equals
four of the smallest cakes, which are called " fotu." The bags,
made of the leaves of the dum-palm (or the " kabba"), in which
these loaves are packed up, are called " takrufa." But the
finest salt is generally in loose grains ; and this is the only pal
atable salt, while the ordinary salt of Bilma is very bitter to
the European palate, and spoils every thing ; but the former is
more than three times the value of the latter. The price paid
in Bilma is but two zekkas for three kantus.
In the evening there was "urgi" or "eddil" (playing), and
"rawa" or "adellul" (dancing), all over the large camp of the
salt-caravan, and the drummers or " masuganga" were all vying
with each other, when I observed 'that our drummer, Hassan,
who was proud of his talent, and used to call for a little pres
ent, was quite outdone by the drummer of that portion of the
caravan which was nearest to us, who performed his work with
great skill, and caused general enthusiasm among the dancing
people. The many lively and merry scenes, ranging over a
wide district, itself picturesque, and illuminated by large fires
in the dusk of evening, presented a cheerful picture of animated
native life, looking at which a traveler might easily forget the
weak points discoverable in other phases of life in the desert.
Sunday, December 15th. The general start of the united
" airi," or caravan, took place with great spirit ; and a wild,
enthusiastic cry, raised over the whole extent of the encamp
ment, answered to the beating of the drums ; for, though the
Kel-owi are greatly civilized by the influence of the black pop
ulation, nevertheless they are still "half demons," while the
thoroughbred and freeborn Amoshagh (whatever name he may
bear, whether Tarki, ba-A'sbenchi, Kindin, or Chapato) is re
garded by all the neighboring tribes, Arabs as well as Africans,
as a real demon (" jin"). Notwithstanding all this uproar, we
were rather astonished at the small number of camels laden with
salt which formed A'nnur's caravan ; for they did not exceed
two hundred, and their loads in the aggregate would realize in

THE SALT-CARAVAN. 393
Kan6, at the very utmost, three thousand dollars, which, if taken
as the principal revenue of the chief, seems very little. The
whole number of the caravan did not exceed two thousand
camels. However enthusiasticaUy the people had answered to the call
of the drums, the loading of the camels took a long time ; and
tlie old chief himseH had remarkably few people to get ready
his train ; but the reason probably was that he was obliged to
leave as many people behind as possible for the security of the
country. When at length we set out, the view which present
ed itself was really highly exciting ; for here a whole nation was
in motion, going on its great errand of supplying the wants of
other tribes, and bartering for what they stood in need of them
selves. AU the drums were beating ; and one string of camels
after the other marched up in martial order, led on by the " ma
dogu," the most experienced and steadfast among the servants
or foUowers of each chief. It was clear that our last night's
encampment had been chosen only on account of its being weU
protected aH around by ridges of rock ; for, on setting out to
day, we had to foUow up, in the beginning, a course due west,
in order to return into our main direction along the valley. We
then gradually began to turn round the very remarkable Mount
Mari, which here assumed the figure shown in the sketch.

&¦ i

rurther on I saw the people busy in digging up a species of
edible bulbous roots called "adillewan" by the Kel-owi. ' This, I
think, besides the "baba" or "nile" (the Indigofera endecaphyl-

394 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
la), the first specimens of which we had observed two days ago
shooting up unostentatiously among the herbage, was the most
evident proof that we had left the region of the true desert,
though we had still to cross a very sterile tract.
Having changed our direction from south to southwest, about
noon we entered the high road coming directly from A'sodi, but
which was, in fact, nothing better than, a narrow pathway.
Here we were winding through a labyrinth of large, detached
projecting blocks, while Mount Mari presented itself in an en
tirely different shape. Gradually the bottom of the valley be

came free from blocks, and we were crossing and recrossing the
bed of the water-course, when we met a small caravan belong
ing to my friend the Emgedesi I'dder, who had been to Damer
ghu to buy corn. Shortly afterward we encamped at the side
of the water-course, which is called Adoral, and which joins,
further downward, another channel called Wellek, which runs
close along the western range. Here we saw the first speci
mens of the pendent nests of the weaver bird {Ploceus Abys-
siniacus). While I was filling up my journal in the afternoon, I received
a visit from Mohammed Byrji, who had this morning left Tin-
teggana ; he informed me that the women and the old men
whom we had left there had not returned to Tintellust, but had
gone to Tintaghalen. All the population of the other villages
in the northern districts of Air were likewise retreating south
ward during the absence of the salt-caravan.
Monday, December 16th. On starting this morning we were

RICHER VEGETATION. 395
glad to find some variety in the vegetation ; for, instead of the
monotonous talha-trees, which, with some justice, have been
called "vegetable mummies,"* the whole valley plain was adorn
ed with beautiful spreading addwa- or taborak-trees (the Bala
nites JUgyptiacd), the foliage of which often reached down to
the very ground, forming a dense canopy of the freshest green.
After winding along, and crossing and recrossing the small
channel, the path ascended the rocky ground, and we soon got
sight of the mountains of Baghzen, looking out from behind the
first mountain range, from whose southern end a point called
A'nfisek rises to a considerable elevation. This higher level,
however, was not bare and naked, but overgrown with the
"knotted" grass bu-rekkeba and with the addwa- and gawo-
tree, while on our left the broad but nevertheless sharply-mark
ed peak of Mount Mari towered over the whole, and gave to
the landscape a pecuHar character. At an early hour we en
camped between buttresses of scattered blocks shooting out of
the plain, which seems to stretch to the very foot of the Bagh
zen, and to be noted pre-eminently as the Plain, " erarar."
In the afternoon I walked to a considerable distance, first to
a hiU S.W. from our camp, from which I was able to take sev
eral angles, and then to the well. The latter was at a distance
of a mile and a half from our tent in a westerly direction, and
was carefully waUed up with stones ; it measured three fathoms
and a half to the surface of the water, while the depth of the
water itself was at present little less than three fathoms, so that
it is evident that there is water here at aU seasons. Its name
is A'lbes. As, on account of our slow traveling, we had been
four days without water, the meeting with a well was rather
agreeable to us. Between the well and the foot of the mount
ain there was a temporary encampment of shepherds, who sent
a sheep and a good deal of cheese to the old chief.
Here we remained the two following days, in order to repose
It is remarkable and significant that the Tawarek employ one and the same
name for talha and firewood in general, namely, the word "esarer;" but it is
stall more significant that the Kanuri or Bornu seem to employ the same name,
"kindin," for the Tarki and the talha.

396 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
from the fatigue of our sham traveling ! I went once more all
over my Emgedesi collection, and made a present to the serv
ants of the mission of twenty-two zekkas of Bilma dates, which
I bought from the people of the caravan ; they were all thank
ful for this little present. I was extremely glad to find that
even the Tunisian shushan, when he had to receive orders only
from me, behaved much better ; and I wrote from his recital a
Gober story, which, as being characteristic of the imagination
of the natives, and illustrating their ancient pagan worship of
the dodo, might perhaps prove of interest even to the general
reader. The several divisions of the "airi" came slowly up;
among them we observed the Kel-azaneres, the people of Liisu,
the chief himself having gone on in advance, as I observed
above. Thursday, December 19th. Our heavy caravan at length set
out again, the camels having now recovered a little from the try
ing march over the naked desert which divides the mountain
ous district of A'sben from the " henderi-Teda," the fertile hol
low of the Tebu country. It attracted my attention, that the
shrubby and thick-leaved " allwot" (the blue Orucifera men
tioned before) had ceased altogether ; even the eternal bu-rek
keba began to be scarce, while only a few solitary trees were
scattered about.
While marching over this dreary plain, we noticed some Te"bu
merchants, natives of Dirki, with only three camels, who had
come with the salt-caravan from Bilma, and were going to
Kano ; from them we learned that a Tebu caravan had started
from Kawar for Bornu at the time of the 'Aid el kebir. The
example of these solitary travelers, indeed, might perhaps be
followed with advantage by Europeans also, in order to avoid
the country of the Azkar and the insecure border-districts of
the Kel-owi, especially if they chose to stay in the T6bu oasis
till they had obtained the protection of one of the great men of
this country.
For a little while the plain was adorned with talha-trees;
but then it became very rugged, like a rough floor of black ba
salt, through which wound a narrow path, pressing the whole

MOUNT BA'GHZEN.

397

caravan into one long string. At length, at half past two
o'clock in the afternoon, after having traversed extremely rug
ged ground, we began to descend from this broad basaltic level,
and, having crossed the dry water-course of a winter torrent, en-

398 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
tered the valley Telliya, which has a good supply of trees, but
very little herbage. A cemetery here gave indication of the oc
casional or temporary residence of nomadic settlers.
On ascending again from the bottom of the valley to a higher
level, and looking backward, we obtained a fine view of Mount
Ajuri, at the foot of which lies Chemia, a valley and village cel
ebrated for its date-trees. It was not our fate to see any of
those places in A'sben which are distinguished by the presence
of this tree — neither the valley just mentioned, nor Iferwan, nor
I'r-n-Allem ; and a visit to them will form one of the interest
ing objects of some future traveler in this country. Having
kept along the plain for an hour, we encamped at a little dis
tance west from the dry bed of a water-course running from
north to south along the eastern foot of a low basaltic ridge,
with a fine display of trees, but a scanty one of herbage. I
went to ascend the ridge, supposing it to be connected with the
Baghzen, but found that it was completely separated from the
latter by a depression or hollow quite bare and naked.
This was the best point from whence to obtain a view over
the eastern flank of Mount Baghzen, with its deep crevices or
ravines, which seemed to separate the mountain mass into sev
eral distinct groups ; and in the evening I made the sketch of
it given above.
However, we had full leisure to contemplate this mountain,
which is not distinguished by great elevation, the highest peaks
being little more than 2000 feet above the plain ;* but it is inter
esting, as consisting probably of basaltic formation. We staid
here longer than we desired, as we did not find an opportunity
to penetrate into the glens of the interior, which, from this place,
seem excessively barren, but are said to contain some favored
and inhabited spots, where even corn is reared. But our com
panions spoke with timorous exclamations of the numbers of
lions which infest these retired mountain passes, and not one.of
them would offer himself as a companion. The reason of our
* It is scarcely necessary to say that the village Baghzen, reported to be situ
ated on the very highest peak of these mountains, does not exist. There is no
village of this name.

RICH VALLEY UNA'N. 399
longer stay in this place was that our camels had strayed to a
very great distance southward, so that they could not be found
in the forenoon of the following day. The blame of letting them
stray was tlirown upon Hassan, whose inferiority as a drummer
I had occasion to note above. How he was punished Mr. Eich
ardson has described ; and I will only add that the handkerchief
which he paid was to be given to the " serki-n-karfi" * ("the
task-master," properly " the master of the iron" or "of the
force") ; but the whole affair was rather a piece of pleasantry.
In the morning Mghas, the chief of Tellwa, a fine, sturdy
man mounted upon a strong gray horse, passed by, going south
ward, followed by a long string of camels ; and shortly after
ward a small caravan of people of Selufiet, who had bought corn
in Damerghu, passed in the opposite direction.
Saturday, December 21st. The weather was clear and cheer
ful, and the sun was warmer than hitherto. We went on, and
approached a district more favored by nature, when, having
passed an irregular formation in a state of great decomposition,
we reaehed about ten o'clock the vaUey Unan, or rather a branch
wadi of the chief valley of that name, where dum-palms began
to appear, at first soHtary and scattered about, but gradually
forming a handsome grove, particularly after the junction with
the chief valley, where a thick cluster of verdure, formed by a
variety of trees, greeted the eye. There is also a village of the
name of Unan lying on the border of the principal valley a little
higher up ; and wells occur in different spots. But the valley
was not merely rich in vegetation — it was the richest, indeed,
as yet seen on this road — it was also enlivened by man; and
after we had met two I'ghdalen whom I had known in A'gades,
we passed a large troop of Ikadmawen, who were busy watering
their camels, cattle, and goats at one of the wells. We also saw
here the first specimens of stone houses, which characterize the
district to which the valley Unan forms the entrance-hall, if I
may use the expression. On its western side is an irregular
plain, where a division of the salt-caravan lay encamped.
* Karfi has both meanings, by a metaphor easily to be understood ; da-karfi is
"by force."

400 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Proceeding then, after midday we passed by a low white cone
on our left, after which the valley, with its variety of vegetation,
and animated as it was by numerous herds of goats, made a
cheerful impression. Here the remains of stone dwellings be
came numerous ; and further on we passed an entire village con
sisting of such houses, which, as I was distinctly informed, con
stituted in former times one of the principal settlements of the
Kel-geres, who were then masters of all the territory as far as
the road to A'gades. The whole valley here formed a thick
grove of dtim-palms ; and stone houses, entire or in ruins, were
scattered all about. About three o'clock in the afternoon we
left it for an hour, traversing a rocky flat with a low ridge of
basalt ranging on our right, when we descended again into the
dum-valley, which had been winding round on the same side,
and encamped, at half past four o'clock in the afternoon, in the
midst of very wild and rank vegetation, nourished by an im
mense torrent which occasionally rolls its floods along the chan
nel, and which had left, on the stems of the baggaruwa-trees
with which it was lined, evident traces of the depth which it may
sometimes attain. The bed of the torrent was thickly over
grown with wild melons.
Although there is no well in the neighborhood, we were to
stay here the two following days, in order to give the camels a
good feed. A well, called Tanis-n-tanode, lies lower down the
valley, but at a considerable distance. The valley itself runs
southwestward: by some it is said to join the Erazar-n-Barg6t;
but this seems scarcely possible. Numerous flocks of wild
pigeons passed over our heads the following morning, looking for
water. The monotony of the halt was interrupted, in the course
of the day, by the arrival of Hamma, who had been to A'fasas,
and by that of Astafidet, the young titular Kel-owi chief resid
ing in A'sodi, among whose companions or followers was a very
intelligent and communicative man of the name of El Hasar,
who gave me a great deal of interesting information. All the
eminences in the neighborhood consist of basaltic formation.
Tuesday, December 24th. We again moved on a little, fol
lowing the rich valley, which in some places reminded me of the

RICH VALLEY UNA/N. 401
Upper Nile, the only difference being that here the broad sandy
bottom of the water-course takes the place of the fine river in
the scenery of Nubia. We made a short halt on the road, in
order to supply ourselves with water from the weU which I men
tioned before. About noon, the fresh fleshy aUwot, which had
not been observed by us for several days, again appeared, to the
great delight of the camels, which like it more than any thing-
else, and, having been deprived of it for some time, attacked it
with the utmost greediness. Two miles and a half farther on,
where the valley widened to a sort of irregular plain with sever
al little channels, we encamped ; there was a profusion of herb
age all around.
It was Christmas eve, but we had nothing to celebrate it
with, and we were cast down by the sad news of the appearance
of the cholera in Tripoli. This we had learned during our
march from a smaU caravan which had left that place three
months previously, without bringing us a single line, or even as
much as a greeting. The eternal bitter "tliwo" was to be de
voured to-day also, as we had no means of adding a little fes
tivity to our repast.
We remained here the two following days, and were enter
tained on the morning of Christmas day by a performance of
Astafidet's musicians. This was a somewhat cheerful holiday
entertainment, although our visitors had not that object in view,
but merely plied their talents to obtain a present. There were
only two of them, a drummer and a flutist ; and though they
did not much excel the other virtuosi of the country, whose
abuities we had already tested, nevertheless, having regard to
the occasion, we were greatly pleased with them. Here I took
leave of my best Kel-owi friend, Hamma, a trustworthy man in
every respect — except, perhaps, as regards the softer sex — and
a cheerful companion, to whom the whole mission, and I in par
ticular, were under great obligations. He, as well as Moham
med Byrji, the youthful grandson of A'nnur, who accompanied
him on this occasion, were to return hence with Astafidet, in
order to assist this young titular prince in his arduous task of
maintaining order in the country during the absence of the old.
t Vol. L— C c

402 TRAVELS IN AFRICA,
chief and the greater part of the male population of the north
eastern districts. They were both cheerful," though they felt
some sorrow at parting ; but they consoled themselves with the
hope of seeing me again one day. But, poor fellows, they were
both doomed to fall in the sanguinary struggle which broke out
between the Kel-geres and the Kel-owi in 1854.

CHAPTEE XXI.
THE BORDER REGION OF THE DESERT. — THE TAGAMA.
Friday, December 21th. At length we were to exchange our
too easy wandering for the rate of real traveling. Early in the
morning a consultation was held with the elder men of the Kel-
tafidet, who had come from their viUages. We then set out,
taking leave of the regions behind us, and looking forward with
confidence and hope to the unknown or half-known regions be
fore us.
The valley continued to be well clothed with a profusion of
herbage, but it was closely hemmed in on both sides ; after a
march, however, of four miles and a half, it widened again to
more than a mile, and began gradually to lose its character of a
valley altogether ; but even here the allwot was still seen, al
though of a stunted and dry appearance. We then left the
green hollow, which is the valley Bargot, and I thought we
should now enter upon the Hammada or "tenere;" but after a
whUe the valley again approached close on our left. To my dis
appointment, we encamped even before noon, at the easy north
ern slope of the rocky ground, where there is a watering-place
called Aghalle. The afternoon, however, passed away very
pleasantly, as I had a conversation with the old chief, who hon
ored me with a visit, and touched on many points of the high
est interest.
Saturday, December 28th. Starting at a tolerably early hour,
we ascended the slope ; but no sooner had we reached the level

THE HOME OF THE GIRAFFE. 403
of the plain than we halted, beating the drum until all the dif
ferent strings of camels had come up ; we then proceeded. At
first the plain consisted almost exclusively of gravel overgrown
with herbage and allwot, with only now and then a rock seen
projecting ; but gradually it became more pebbly, and was then
intersected by a great many low crests of rock consisting chiefly
of gneiss. We gradually ascended toward a low ridge called
Abadarjen, remarkable as forming in this district the northern
border of the elevated sandy plain, which seems to stretch across
a great part of the continent, and forms the real transition-land
between the rocky wilderness of the desert and the fertile arable
zone of Central Africa. This sandy ledge is the real home of
the giraffe and of the Antilope leucoryx.
Just about noon we entered upon this district, leaving the
rocky range at less than a mile on our left, and seeing before us
a sandy level broken only now and then by blocks of granite
thickly overgrown with the " knotted" grass called bu-rekkeba,
and dotted with scattered talha-trees. Two miles farther on we
encamped. A very long ear of gero {Pennisetum typhoideum),
which was broken from a plant growing wild near the border of
the path, was the most interesting object met with to-day, while
an ostrich egg, though accidentally the very first which we had
yet seen on this journey, afforded us more material interest, as
it enabled us to indulge our palates with a little tasteful hors
d'osuvre, which caused us more delight, perhaps, than scientific
travelers are strictly justified in deriving from such causes. Our
caravan to-day had been joined by Gajere, a faithful servant of
A'nnur, who was coming from A'gades, and who, though a stran
ger at the time, very shortly became closely attached to me, and
at present figures among the most agreeable reminiscences of
my journey.
Sunday, December 29th. When we started we were sur
prised at the quantity of had with which the plain began to be
covered. This excellent plant is regarded by the Arab as the
most nutritious of all the herbs of the desert, and in the west
ern part of that arid zone it seems to constitute its chief food.
Numerous footprints of giraffes were seen, besides those of ga-

404 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
zelles and ostriches, and toward the end of the march those of
the Welwaiji, the large and beautiful antelope called leucoryx,
from the skin of which the Tawarek make their large bucklers.
Farther on, the plain presented some ups and downs, being at
times naked, at others well wooded and overgrown with grass.
At length, after a good day's march, we encamped.
To-day we made the acquaintance of another native of Mid
dle Sudan, the name of which plays a very important part in
the nomenclature of articles of the daily market in aU the towns
and villages. This was the magaria (called by the Kanuri
" kusulu"), a middle-sized tree with small leaves of olive-green
color, and producing a fruit nearly equal in size to a smaU cher
ry, but in other respects more resembling the fruit of the cornel
{Cornus), and of light-brown color. This fruit, when dried, is
pounded and formed into little cakes, which are sold all over
Hausa as " tuwo-n-magaria," and may be safely eaten in small
quantities even by a European, to allay his hunger for a while,
tiU he can obtain something more substantial ; for it certainly
is not a very soHd food, and if eaten in great quantities has a
very mawkish taste.
While the cattle and the asses went on already in the dark,
the camels were left out during the night to pick up what food
they could ; but early in the morning, when they were to be
brought back, a great many of A'nnur's camels could not be
found. Hereupon the old chief himself set his people an ex
ample ; and galloping to the spot where their traces had been
lost, he recovered the camels, which were brought in at an early
hour. Meanwhile, however, being informed how difficult it
would be to obtain water at the weU before us, in the scramble
of people which was sure to take place, I arranged with Over
weg that whUe I remained behind with Mohammed and the
things, he should go on in advance with the Gatroni and Ibra
him to fill the water-skins ; and we afterward had reason to
congratulate ourselves on this arrangement, for the well, though
spacious and built up with wood, contained at the time but a
very moderate supply of muddy water for so large a number of
men and beasts. Its name is Tergulawen.

MAGARIA'.— WELL TERGULA-WEN. 405
This locality, desolate and bare in the extreme, is considered
most dangerous on account of the continual ghazzias of the
AweHmmiden and Kel-geres, who are sure to surprise and car
ry off the straggling travelers, who, if they would not perish by
thirst, must resort to this weU. Our whole road from our en
campment, for more than seven hours and a half, led over bare,
barren sand-hiUs. The camping-ground was chosen at no great
distance beyond the weU, in a shaUow valley or depression
ranging east and west, and bordered by sand-hills on its south
side, with a little sprinkling of herbage. The wind, which
came down with a cold blast from N.N.E., was so strong that
we had great difficulty in pitching the tent.
December 31st. Last day of 1850. A cold day and a mount
ainous country. After we had crossed the sand-hUls, there was
nothing before us but one flat expanse of sand, mostly bare, and
clothed with trees only in favored spots. The most remarkable
phenomenon was the appearance of the feathery bristle, the
Pennisetum distichum, which on the road to A'gades begins
much farther northward. Indeed, when we encamped, we had
some difficulty in finding a spot free from this nuisance, though
of course the strong wind carried the seeds to a great distance.
AU our enjoyment of the last evening of the old year centred in
an extra dish of two ostrich eggs.
January 1st, 1851. This morning the condition in which the
people composing the caravan crawled out of their berths was
most miserable and piteous ; and, moreover, nobody thought of
starting early, as several camels had been lost. At length,
when the intense cold began to abate, and when the animals
had been found, every body endeavored to free himself and his
clothing from the bristles, which joined each part of his dress
to the others like so many needles ; but what one succeeded in
getting rid of was immediately carried by the strong wind to
another, so that all were in every respect peevish when they
set out at half past nine o'clock. Nevertheless, the day was to
be a very important one to me, and one on which princely favor
was to be shown to me in a most marked manner.
I have remarked above that on the day I started for A'gades

406 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the old chief made a present of a bullock to the other members
of the mission ; but in this present I myself did not participate,
and I had not yet received any thing from him. Perhaps he
was sensible of this, and wanted to give me likewise a proof of
his royal generosity, but I am afraid he was at the same time
actuated by feelings of a very different nature. He had several
times praised my Turkish jacket, and I had consoled him with
a razor or some other trifle ; he had avowedly coveted my warm
black bernus, and had effected by his frank intimations noth
ing more than to make me draw my warm clothing closer round
my body. In order to bear the fatigue of the journey more
easily, he had long ago exchanged the little narrow kigi or me-
heri-saddle for the broad pack-saddle, with a load of salt, as a
secure seat.
He was one of the foremost in his string, while I, mounted
upon my Bu-Sefi (who, since the loss of my meheri, had once
more become my favorite saddle-horse), was riding outside the
caravan, separated from him by several strings of .camels. He
caUed me by name ; and, on my answering his call, he invited
me to come to him. To do this, I had to ride round aU the
strings. At length I reached him. He began to complain of
the intense cold, from which he was suffering so acutely, while
I seemed to be so comfortable in my warm clothes ; then he
asked if the ostrich eggs of yesterday evening had pleased us,
whereupon I told him that his people had cheered us greatly by
contributing, with their gift, to enable us to celebrate our chief
festival. He then put his hand into his knapsack, and drawing
forth a little cheese, and lifting it high up, so that all his peo
ple might see it, he presented the princely gift to me, with a
gracious and condescending air, as a " magani-n-dari" (a reme
dy against the cold), words which I, indeed, was not sure wheth
er they were not meant ironically, as an intimation that I had
withheld from him the real magani-n-dari, my black bernus.
We were gladdened when, about noon, the plain became
clothed with brushwood, and, after a while, also with bu-rekke-
ba. Large troops of ostriches were seen — once the whole fam
ily, the parents, with several young ones of various ages, all

THE TAGA'MA. 407
running in single file one after the other. We encamped at
half past three in the afternoon on a spot tolerably free from
karengia, where we observed a great many holes of the fox, the
feriek, or iiauriawa {Megalotis famelicus), particularly in the
neighborhood of ant-hills. There were also the larger holes of
the earth-hog {Orycteropus ^Ethiopicus), an animal which nev
er leaves its hole in the daytime, and is rarely seen even by the
natives. The holes, which are from fourteen to sixteen inches
in diameter, and descend graduaUy, are generally made with
great accuracy.
The foUowing day, the country, during the first part of our
march, continued rather bare ; but after half past two in the
afternoon it became richer in trees and bushes, forming the
southern zone of this sandy inland plateau, which admits of
pastoral settlements. The elevation of this plain or transition
zone seems to be in general about two thousand feet above the
level of the sea. We encamped at length in the midst of prickly
underwood, and had a good deal of trouble before we could clear
a spot for pitching the tent.
Thursday, January 3d. Soon after setting out on our march
we met a caravan consisting of twenty oxen laden with corn,
and farther on we passed a herd of cattle belonging to the Ta-
gama — a most cheerful sight to us. We then encamped before
ten o'clock a Httle beyond a viUage of the same tribe, which,
from a neighboring well, bears the name In-asamet. The vU
lage consisted of huts exactly of the kind described by Leo ;
for they were built of ma.ts{stuore) erected upon stalks {frasche),
and covered with hides over a layer of branches, and were very
low. Numbers of children and cattle gave to the encampment
a lively aspect. The well is rather deep, not less than seven
teen fathoms.
We had scarcely encamped when we were visited by the
male inhabitants of the vUlage, mounted upon a smaU, Ul-look-
mg breed of horses. They proved to be somewhat trouble
some, instigated as they were by curiosity, as well as by their
begging propensities ; but, in order to learn as much as possible,
I thought it better to sacrifice the comfort of my tent, and con-

408 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
verse with them. They were generally taU men, and much
fairer than the Kel-owi ; but in their customs they showed that
they had fallen off much from ancient usages, through intercourse
with strangers. The women not only made the first advances,
but, what is worse, they were offered even by the men — their
brethren or husbands. Even those among the men whose be
havior was least vUe and revolting did not cease urging us to
engage with the women, who failed not to present themselves
soon afterward. It could scarcely be taken as a joke. Some
of the women were immensely fat, particularly in the hinder
regions, for which the Tawarek have a peculiar and expressive
name — tebulloden. Their features were very regular and their
skin fair. The two most distinguished among them gave. their
names as Shabo and Tamatu, which latter word, though signi
fying "woman" in general, may nevertheless be also used as a
proper name. The wealthier among them were dressed in black
turkedi and the zenne ; the poorer in white cotton. The dress
of most of the men was also white ; but the chief peculiarity of
the latter was, that several oi them wore their hair hanging
down in long tresses. This is a token of their being AnisH
men or Merabetin (holy men), which character they assume, not
withstanding their dissolute manners. They have no school,
but pride themselves on having a m'aUem appointed at their
mesallaje, which must be miserable enough. Having once al
lowed the people to come into my tent, I could not clear it again
the whole day. The names of the more respectable among the
men were Kille, El Khassen, Efarret, Chay, Eissa, Khandel, and
Amaghar (properly " the Elder"). All these people, men and
women, brought with them a variety of objects for sale ; and I
bought from them some dried meat of the welwaiji {Antilqpe
leucoryx), which proved to be very fine, as good as beef; others,
however, asserted that it was the flesh of the " rakomi-n-dawa"
or giraffe.
Hunting, together with cattle-breeding, is the chief occupation
of the Tagama ; and they are expert enough with their little
swift horses to catch the large antelope as weU as the giraffe.
Others engage in the salt-trade, and accompany the Kel-geres

THE TAGA'MA. 409
on their way to Bilma, without, however, foUowing them to So
koto, where, for the reason wliich I shall presently explain, they
are not now allowed to enter ; but they bring their salt to Kano.
In this respect the Tagama acknowledge, also, in a certain de
gree, the supremacy of the Sultan of A'gades.
Their slaves were busy in collecting and pounding the seeds
of the karengia, or uzak {Pennisetum distichum), which consti
tutes a great part of their food. Whatever may be got here is
procurable only with money ; even the water is sold : the wa
ter-skin for a zekka of mUlet ; but, of course, grain is here very
much cheaper than in Air, and even than in A'gades. Alto
gether, the Tagama* form at present a very small tribe, able to
muster, at the utmost, three hundred spears, but most of them
are mounted on horseback. Formerly, however, they were far
more numerous, till I'bram, the father of the present chief, un
dertook, with the assistance of the Kel-geres, the unfortunate
expedition against Sokoto (then governed by Bello), of which
Clapperton has given a somewhat exaggerated account.f The
country around is said to be greatly infested by lions, which
often carry off camels.
Friday, January 4th. Our setting out this morning, after the
camels were aU laden and the men mounted, was retarded by the
arrival of a queen of the desert, a beauty of the first rank, at
least as regarded her dimensions. The lady, with really hand
some features, was mounted upon a white buUock, which snort
ed violently under his immense burden. Nevertheless, this lux
urious specimen of womankind was sickly, and required the as
sistance of the tabib, or "ne-meglan,"$ a title which Overweg
had earned for himself by his doctoring, though his practice was
rather of a remarkable kind ; for he used generally to treat his
patients, not according to the character of their sickness, but ac-
* The Tagama were said by some of our informants to have come from Janet ;
but I was not able to confirm this piece of information. However, I am sure that
they belong to a stock settled in these regions long before the Kel-owi. We find
them settled on the borders of Negroland in very ancient times. Horneman,
from what he heard about them, believed them to be Christians.
t Clapperton and Denham's Travels, vol. ii., p. 107.
X The Western Tawarek call the doctor " anessafar."

410 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
cording to the days of the week on which they came. Thus he
had one day of calomel, another of Dover's powder, one of Ep
som salts, one of magnesia, one of tartar emetic, the two re
maining days being devoted to some other medicines ; and it,
of course, sometimes happened that the man who suffered from
diarrhoea got Epsom salts, and he who required opening medi
cine was blessed with a dose of Dover's powder. Of course,
my friend made numerous exceptions to this calendary method
of treating disease, whenever time and circumstances allowed
him to study more fully the state of a patient. However, in the
hurry in which we just then were, he could scarcely make out
what the imaginary or real infirmity of this lady was, and I can
riot say what she got. She was certainly a woman of great au
thority, as the old chief himself was full of kind regards and
deference to her. We were rather astonished that he exchanged
here his brown mare for a lean white horse, the owners of which
seemed, with good reason, excessively delighted with the bar
gain. At length we got off, proceeding toward the land of promise
in an almost direct southerly course. After three miles' march,
the thick bush " dilu" made its appearance in the denser under
wood, and the country became more hilly and full of ant-holes,
while in the distance ahead of us, a little to our left, a low range
became visible, stretching east and west. Suddenly the ground
became a rocky flat, and the whole caravan was thrown into dis
order. We did not at first perceive its cause, till we saw, to
our great astonishment, that a steep descent by a regular ter
race was here formed, at least a hundred feet high, which con
ducted to a lower level — the first distinct proof that we had pass
ed the Hammada. The vegetation here was different, and a
new plant made its appearance called " agwau," a middle-sized
bush, consisting of a dense cluster of thick branches of very
white wood, at present without leaves, the young shoots just
coming out ; melons also were plentiful here, but they had no
taste. The rocky descent only extends to a short distance to
ward the west, when, it breaks off, while on our left it stretched
far to the southeast. When we had kept along this plain for a

VEGETATION. 41 J
little more than two miles, we passed, a short distance on our
right, a large pond or " tebki" of water, called " Farak," spread
ing out in a hollow. I had here a long conversation with my
frolicsome friend, Mohammed A'nnur's cousin, who was also go
ing to Sudan ; I told him that his uncle seemed to know his
people well, and showed his wisdom in not leaving such a wan
ton youngster as himself behind him. He was, as usual, full
of good-humor, and informed me that A'nnur's troop was almost
the first, being preceded only by the caravan of Salah, the chief
of Egellat. He prided himself again on his exploits in the late
ghazzia, when they had overtaken the E'fadaye marauders in
Talak and Bugaren. Farther on we passed the well called Fa
rak, which was now dry, and encamped two miles beyond it in
a district thickly overgrown with karengias.
Saturday, January 5th. We had scarcely started when I ob
served an entirely new species of plant, which is rather rare in
Central Negroland, and which I afterward met in considerable
quantities along the north shore of the so-caUed Niger, between
Timbuktu and Tosaye. It is here, in Hausa, called " kumkum-
mia," a euphorbia growing from one and a half to two feet in
height, and is very poisonous ; indeed, hereabouts, as in other
districts of Central Africa, it furnishes the chief material with
which arrows are poisoned. The principal vegetation consisted
of " arza" (a species of laurel) and dilu ; and farther on, para
sitical plants were seen, but not in a very vigorous state. Al
together the country announced its fertUity by its appearance ;
and a little before noon, when low ranges of hills encompassed
the view on both sides, and gave it a more pleasant character,
we passed, close on our left, another pastoral settlement of half
mat and half leather tents,* enlivened by numerous cattle and
flocks, and leaning against a beautiful cluster of most luxuriant
trees. But more cheerful still was the aspect of a little lake or
tank of considerable extent, and bordered all around with the
thickest grove of luxuriant acacias of the kind caUed " baggar-
ruwa," which formed overhead a dense and most beautiful can-
* I shall describe this sort of tent in the narrative of my stay among the West-
em Tawarek.

412 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
opy. This little lake is called " Gumrek," and was full of cattle,
which came hither to cool themselves in the shade during the
hot hours of the day. In this pleasant scenery we marched
along, while a good number of horsemen coUected around us,
and gave us a Httle trouble ; but I liked them far better, with
their rough and warlike appearance, than their more civilized
and degraded brethren of the day before. At about half past
two we encamped on the border of a dry water-course with a
white sandy bed, such as we had not seen for a long time. But
here we made the acquaintance of a new plant and a new nui
sance; this is the "aido," a grass with a prickly involucrum
of black color, and of larger size and stronger prickles than the
karengia (or Pennisetum distichum), and more dangerous for
naked feet than for the clothes. A new string of camels joined
us here, led on by Mohammed A'nnur.
Sunday, January 6th. We were greatly surprised at the ap
pearance of the weather this morning ; the sky was covered with
thick clouds, and even a light rain fell wlrile the caravan was
loading. We felt some fear on account of the salt; but the rain
soon ceased. In the course of my travels, principally during
my stay in Timbuktu, I had more opportunities of observing
these little incidental rain-falls of the cold season, or " the black
nights," during January and February; and farther on, as oc
casion offers, I shaU state the result of my observations.
A little more than a mile from our camping-ground, the aspect
of the country became greatly changed, and we ascended a hiUy
country of a very remarkable character, the tops of the hiUs
looking bare, and partly of a deep, partly of a grayish black,
like so many mounds of volcanic debris, while the openings or
hollows were clothed with underwood. Here om* companions
began already to collect wood, as a provision for the woodless
corn-fields of Damerghu ; but we were as yet some distance off.
Ascending gradually, we reached the highest point at nine
o'clock, while close on our right we had a hiU rising to greater
elevation ; and here we obtained an interesting view — just as
the sun burst through the clouds — over the hiUy country before
us, through which a bushy depression ran in a very winding

CORN-FIELDS OF DAMERGHU'. 413
course. Along this tortuous thread of underwood lay our path.
As we were proceeding, Ibrahim, our Furawi freeman, who was
a very good marksman for a black, brought down a large lizard
(Draconina) " demmo," or, as the Arabs call it, " warel," which
was sunning itself on a tree ; it is regarded by the people as a
great delicacy. A little before noon the country seemed to be
come more open, but only to be covered with rank reeds ten feet
high — quite a new sight for us, and a great inconvenience for the
camels, which stumbled along over the little hillocks from which
the bunches of reeds shot forth. Farther on, the ground (being
evidently very marshy during the rainy season) was so greatly
torn and rent by deep fissures that the caravan was obliged to
separate into two distinct parties. The very pleasant and truly
park-like hdly country continued nearly unchanged till one
o'clock in the afternoon, when, at a considerable distance on our
left, we got sight of the first corn-fields of Damerghu, belonging
to the villages of Kulakerki and Banuwelki.
This was certainly an important stage in our journey ; for,
although we had before seen a few small patches of garden-fields
where corn was produced (as in Selufiet, A'uderas, and other
favored places), yet they were on so small a scale as to be in
capable of sustaining even a small fraction of the population ;
but here we had at length reached those fertile regions of Cen
tral Africa, which are not only able to sustain their own popu
lation, but even to export to foreign countries. My heart glad
dened at this sight, and I felt thankful to Providence that our
endeavors had been so far crowned with success ; for here a
more promising field for our labors was opened, which might
become of the utmost importance in the future history of man
kind. We soon after saw another viUage, which several of our com
panions named Olalowa, and which may indeed be so called,
although I thought at the time they applied to it the name of
the more famous place farther on, with which they were ac
quainted ; and I afterward convinced myself that such was real
ly the case. The country became open and level, the whole
ground being split and rent by fissures. While I was indulging

414 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
in pleasing reveries of new discoveries and successful return, I
was suddenly startled by three horsemen riding up to me and
saluting me with a " La ilah ila Allah." It was Dan I'bra (or
I'bram, the " son of Ibrahim"), the famous and dreaded chief of
the Tamizgida,* whom the ruler of Tintellust himself in former
times had not been able to subdue, but had been obliged to pay
him a sort of small tribute or transit-money, in order to secure
the unmolested passage of his caravans on their way to Sudan.
The warlike chief had put on. all his finery, wearing a handsome
blue bernus, with gold embroidery, over a rich Sudan tobe, and
was tolerably well mounted. I answered his salute, swearing
by Allah that I knew Allah better than he himself, when he be
came more friendly, and exchanged with me a few phrases, ask
ing me what we wanted to see in this country. He then went
to take his turn with Mr. Eichardson. I plainly saw that if we
had not been accompanied by A'nnur himself, and almost all our
luggage sent on in advance, we should have had here much more
serious colloquies.
After having ascended a little from the lower ground, where
evidently, during the rains, a large sheet of water collects, and
having left on our right a little village surrounded by stubble-
fields, we passed along the western foot of the gently sloping
ground on whose summit lies the village ("ungwa") Sammit.
It was past four o'clock in the afternoon when we encamped
upon an open stubble-field, and we were greatly cheered at ob
serving here the first specimen of industry in a good sense — for
of industry in a bad sense the Tagama had already given us some
proof. As soon as we were dismounted, two muscular blacks,
girded with leather aprons round their loins, came bounding
forward, and in an instant cleared the whole open space around
us, while in a few minutes several people, male and female, fol
lowed, offering a variety of things for sale, such as millet, beans
(of two sorts), and those cakes called dodowa, which were duly
* This name means "the mosque;" and the tribe, apparently, has formerly
been settled somewhere in a town. By the Arabs it is regarded as greatly Arab-
icized, and is even called 'A'raba. We shall meet another tribe of the same namo
in the West.

NEGRO ARCHITECTURE. 415
appreciated by the late Captain Clapperton for the excellent
soup made of them. Of their preparation I shall speak when
we meet the first tree of that species, the dorowa — the name of
the cake and that of the tree being distinguished by the change
of a consonant. The cakes obtained here, however, as I after
ward learned, were of a most inferior and spurious character —
of that kind caUed " dodowa-n-bosso" in Hausa, and in some
districts " yakwa." We felt here the benefit of civilization in
a most palpable way, by getting most excellent chicken-broth
for our supper. Our servants, indeed, were cooking the whole
night. Monday, January 1th. There were again a few drops of rain
in the morning. Soon after starting we were greeted by the
aspect of a few green kitchen-gardens, while we were still grad
ually ascending. On reaching the highest level, we obtained a
sight of the mountains of Damerghu (" dtiwatsu n Damerghu"
as they are called), a low range stretching parallel with the road
toward the east, whUe ahead of us and westward the country
was entirely open, resembling one unbroken stubble-field. Hav
ing crossed a hoUow with a dry pond and some trees, we had at
about eight o'clock a village close on our right, where for the
first time I saw that peculiar style of architecture which, with
some more or less important varieties, extends through the whole
of Central Africa.
These huts, in as far as they are generally erected entirely
with the stalks of the Indian corn, almost without any other
support except that derived from the feeble branches of the As-
clepias gigantea, certainly do not possess the solidity of the
huts of the viUages of A'sben, which are supported by a strong
frame-work of branches and young trees ; but they greatly sur
pass them in cleanliness on account of the large available sup
ply of the light material of which they are built. It is, how
ever, to be remarked that the inhabitants of this district depend
in a great measure for their fuel too upon the stalks of the In
dian corn. The huts in general are lower than those in A'sben,
and are distinguished from them entirely by the curved top of
the thatched roof, which sustains the whole. In examining

416 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
these structures, one can not but feel surprised at the great sim
ilarity which they bear to the huts of the aboriginal inhabitants
of Latium, such as they are described by Yitruvius and other
authors, and represented occasionally on terra cotta utensils,
while the name in the Bornu or Kanuri language, " kosi," bears
a remarkable resemblance to the Latin name "casa," however
accidental it may be. It is still more remarkable that a similar
name, " ktide," is given to a cottage in the Tamil and other
Asiatic languages.
More remarkable and peculiar than the huts, and equally new
and interesting to us as the most evident symptom of the great
productiveness of this country, were the little stacks of corn
scattered among the huts, and in reality consisting of nothing
but an enormous basket made of reeds and placed upon a scaf
fold of thick pieces of wood about two feet high, in order to pro
tect the corn against the " kusu" and the " gara" (the mouse
and the ant), and covered over on the top with a thatched roof
like that of the huts.* Of these little corn-stacks we shall find
some most interesting architectural varieties in the course of our
travels. The "gara," or white ant {Termes fatalis), is here
the greatest nuisance, being most destructive to the corn as well
as to all softer kinds of house-furniture, or rather to the houses
themselves. Every possible precaution must be taken against
it. The "ktisu," or mouse, abounds here in great numbers,
and of several species : particularly frequent is the jerboa {di-
pus), which for the traveler certainly forms a very pleasant ob
ject to look at as it jumps about on the fields, but not so to the
native who is anxious about his corn.
While reflecting on the feeble resistance which this kind of
architecture must necessarily offer in case of conflagration, par
ticularly as water is at so great a distance, I perceived, almost
opposite to this little hamlet, a larger one called Maja, on the
other side of the road, and shaded by some thorn-trees. From
both villages the people came forth to offer cheese and Indian
corn for sale. They differed widely from the fanatical people
among whom we had been traveling ; most of them were pagans
* A representation of such a stack of corn is given a little farther on.

VEGETATION. 417
and slaves. Their dress was mean and scanty ; this, of course,
is an expensive article in a country where no cotton is produced,
and where articles of dress can only be obtained in exchange
for the produce of the country. On a field near the path the
Guinea-corn was still lying unthreshed, though the harvest had
been collected two months before. The threshing is done with
long poles. The whole of Damerghu produces no durra or sor
ghum, but only millet or Pennisetum typhdideum, and aU, as
far as I know, of the white species.
Further on, the stubble-fields were pleasantly interrupted by
a httle pasture-aground, where we saw a tolerably large herd of
cattle. Then foUowed a tract of country entirely covered with
the monotonous Asclepias gigantea, which at present is useful
only as affording materials for the framework of the thatched
roofs, or for fences. It is worthless for fuel, although the pith
is employed as tinder. The milky juice (which at present is
used by the pagan natives, as far as I know, only to ferment
their' giya, and which greatly annoys the traveler in crossing the
fields, as it produces spots on the clothes, and even injures the
hair of the horses) might become an important article of trade.
The cattle, at least in districts where they have not good pas
turage, feed on the leaves of the asclepias.
We were gradually ascending, and reached at about a quarter
past ten o'clock the summit of a rising ground, the soU of which
consisted of red clay. Altogether it was an undulating country,
appearing rather monotonous from its almost total want of
trees, but nevertheless of the highest interest to one just arrived
from the arid regions of the north.
Having passed several detached farms, which left a very
agreeable impression of security and peacefulness, we came upon
a group of wells, some dry, but others well filled, where, besides
cattle, a good many horses were led to water — a cheerful and to
us quite a novel sight ; many more were seen grazing around
on the small patches of pasture-ground which interrupted the
stubble-fields, and some of them were in splendid condition —
strong and well-fed, and with fine sleek coats ; all of them were
of brown color. But there was another object which attracted
Vol. I.— d d

418 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
our attention : the trough at the well was formed of a tortoise-
shell of more than two feet in length; and, on inquiry, we learned
that this animal, of a large size, is not at all rare in this district.
It was already mentioned, as common in these regions, by the
famous Andalusian geographer El Bekri.
Villages, stubble-fields, tracts covered with tunfafiia (the As
clepias), detached farms, herds of cattle and troops of horses
tranquilly grazing, succeeded each other, while the country con
tinued undulating", and was now and then intersected by the dry
bed of a water-course. Having passed two divisions of the air,
or airi, which had preceded us, and had encamped near some
villages, we obtained quite a new sight — a large quadrangular
place called Dam-magaji (properly Dan Magaji, "the son of the
lieutenant," after whom it is caUed), surrounded with a clay waU,
spreading out at a short distance on our left, while in the dis
tance before us, in the direction of Zinder, a high cone called
Zozawa became visible. Leaving a village of considerable size
on our right, at a quarter to three o'clock we reached a small
hamlet, from which numbers of people were hurrying forward,
saluting us in a friendly and cheerful manner, and informing us
that this was Tagelel, the old chief's property. We now saw
that the village consisted of two distinct groups, separated from
each other by a cluster of four or five tsamias or tamarind-trees
— the first poor specimens of this magnificent tree, which is the
greatest ornament of Negroland.
Our camping-ground was at first somewhat uncomfortable
and troublesome, it being absolutely necessary to take all pos
sible precautions against the dreadful little foe that infests the
ground wherever there is arable land in Sudan — the white ant;
but we gradually succeeded in making ourselves at home and
comfortable for the next day's halt.
The greatest part of the following day was spent in receiving
visits. The first of these was interesting, although its interest
was diminished by the length to which it was protracted. The
visitor was a gallant freeborn Ikazkezan, of a fine though not
taU figure, regular, well-marked features, and fair complexion,
which at once bespoke his noble birth ; he was clad in a very

IKA'ZKEZAN FREEBOOTER. 41$
good red bernus, of the value of 70,000 kurdi in Kano, and al
together was extremely neatly and well dressed. He came first
on horseback with two companions on camels, but soon sent his
horse and companions away, and squatted down in my tent, ap
parently for a somewhat long talk with me ; and he remained
with me for full three hours. But he was personally interest
ing, and a very fine specimen of his tribe ; and the interest at
taching to his person was greatly enhanced by his having accom
panied the expedition against the Welad SHman, which none of
our other friends the Kel-owi had done. On this account I was
greatly pleased to find that his statements confirmed and cor
roborated the general reports which we had heard before. He
was aU admiration at the large fortification which, as soon as
they heard that the Tawarek intended an expedition against
them, the Arabs had constructed at Keskawa, on the shore of
Lake Tsad (carrying trees of immense size from a great dis
tance), and where they had remained for two months awaiting
the arrival of their enraged foe. He expressed his opinion that
nothing but the Great God himself could have induced them to
leave at length such a secure retreat and impregnable strong
hold, by crazing their wits and confounding their understand
ings. I also learned that these daring vagabonds had not con
tented themselves with taking away all the camels of the Kel-
owi that came to Bilma for salt, but, crossing that most desolate
tract which separates Kawar or Henderi Teda (the Tebu coun
try) from Air, pursued the former as far as Agwau.
At the time I conversed with my Ikazkezan friend about this
subject I was not yet aware how soon I was to try my fortune
with the shattered remains of that Arab horde, although its fate
had formed an object of the highest interest to the expedition
from the beginning. As for ourselves, my visitor was perfectly
well acquainted with the whole history of our proceedings ; and
he was persuaded that, out of any material, we were able to make
what we liked, but especially fine bemuses — an opinion which
gave rise to some amusing conversation between us.
This interesting visitor was succeeded by a great many tire
some people, so that I was heartily glad when Overweg, who

420 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
had made a little excursion to a great pond of stagnant water
at the foot of the hill of Farara, the residence of Makita, return
ed, and, lying outside the little shed of tanned skins, which was
spread over his luggage, drew the crowd away from my tent.
Overweg, as well as Ibrahim, who had accompanied him, had
shot several ducks, which afforded us a good supper, and made
us support with some degree of patience the trying spectacle of
a long procession of men and women, laden with eatables, pass
ing by us in the evening toward the camping-ground of the
chief, while not a single dish found its way to us ; and though
we informed them that they were missing their way, they would
not understand the hint, and answered us with a smile. Many
severe remarks on the niggardliness of the old chief were that
evening made round our fire. While music, dancing, and mer
riment were going on in the village, a solitary " maimolo" found
his way to us, to console the three forsaken travelers from a
foreign land by extolling them to the skies, and representing
them as special ministers of the Almighty.
Wednesday, January 8th. To-day I began a list of the prin
cipal towns and villages of Damerghu, which I shall now give
as it was corrected and completed by my subsequent inquiries ;
but first I shall make a few general observations.
Air, or rather A'sben, as we have seen above, was originaUy
inhabited by the Gober race — that is to say, the most noble
and original stock of what is now, by the natives themselves,
called the Hausa nation ; but the boundaries of A'sben appear
not to have originally included the district of Damerghu, as not
even those of Air do at the present day, Damerghu being con
sidered as an outlying province, and the granary of Air. On
the contrary, the name of Damerghu (which is formed of the
same root as the names Dawerghti, Gamerghu, and others, all
lying round Bornu proper) seems to show that the country to
which it applied belonged to the Kanuri race, who are, in truth,
its chief occupants even at the present day, the Bornu popula
tion being far more numerous than the Hausa ; and though a
great many of them are at present reduced to a servile condi
tion, they are not imported slaves, as Mr. Eichardson thought,

VILLAGES OF DAMERGHU'. 42 1
but most of them are serfs or prsedial slaves, the original inhab
itants of the country. It is true that a great many of the names
of the villages in Damerghu belong to the Hausa language, but
these I conceive to be of a former date. The district extends
for about sixty mUes in length and forty in breadth. It is al
together an undulating country of very fertile soil, capable of
maintaining the densest population, and was in former times
certainly far more thickly inhabited than at present. The
bloody wars carried on between the Bornu king 'AH 'Omarmi
on the one side, and the Sultan of A'gades and the Tawarek of
Air on the other, must have greatly depopulated these border
districts. In giving a list of the principal villages of this region, I shall
first mention five places which owe their celebrity and import
ance, not to their size or the number of their inhabitants, but
rather to their political rauk, being the temporary residences of
the chiefs.
I name first Kula-n-kerki, not the village mentioned above
as being seen in the distance, but another place half a day's
journey ("wueni," as the Hausa people say) east from Tagelel,
of considerable size, and the residence of the chief Musa, who
may with some truth be called master of the soil of Damerghu,
and is entitled serki-n-Damerghu in the same sense in which
Mazawaji was formerly called serki-n-A'sben ; and to him all
the inhabitants of the district, with the sole exception of the
people of the three other chiefs, have to do homage and present
offerings. Olalowa, about three miles or three miles and a half S.W.
of Tagelel, is rather smaller than Kula-n-kerki. It is the resi
dence of Mazawaji, a man of the same family as A'nnur, who,
till a short time before our arrival in Air, was " amanokal-n-
Kel-owi," residing in A'sodi, in the place of Astafidet. Though
he has left Air voluntarily, he still retains the title " serki-n-
Kel-owi," and is a friendly and benevolent old man. Olalowa
has a market-place provided with runfona or rvinfas (sheds),
where a market is held every Sunday ; but it is not well at
tended by the inhabitants of the other places, owing to the fear

422 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
entertained of Mazawaji's slaves, who seem (mild as their mas
ter is) to be disposed to violence.
Farara, the residence of Makita, or I'mkiten, the man who
played the chief part during the interregnum, or, rather, the
reign of anarchy in A'sben, before the installation of Abd el
Kader. It is situated about two miles from Tagelel, on the
west side of the road which we were to take, on the top of a
hill, at the foot of which is a very extensive lagoon of water,
from which the inhabitants of Tagelel also, and of many sur
rounding villages, draw their supply.
Tagelel, the residence of A'nnur, although of small size (the
two groups together containing scarcely more than a hundred
and twenty cottages), is nevertheless of great political import
ance in all the relations of this distracted country.
Here also I will mention Dankamsa, the residence of an in
fluential man of the name of U'mma, which in a certain respect
enjoys the same rank as the four above-named villages.*
I will also add in this place the little which I was able to
learn about the mixed settlements of Tawarek and black natives
between Damerghu and Muniyo. As these places are the chief
* Besides these I learned the names of the following places of Damerghu :
Niminaka, Gomtu, Sabon-gari, Dagabi, Dagabitang, Birji-n-baga ; Kdf kiif (call
ed Kobkob by Mr. Richardson in the itinerary which, on his first journey to Ghat,
he forwarded to government*), in the W., with a lake of very great dimensions ;
Baba-n-birni, a place which I think in former times has been the chief town of
the district ; Kuyawa, Da-n-kiimbu, Da-n-gerki, Marke (a very common name in
Central Sudan) ; Zozawa, at the foot of the high cone of the same name mention
ed above ; Lekari, also S. ; Dammagaji, the place mentioned above ; Ngol-mata,
N. ; Ngol-gano, Ngol-kale, Banwelki, Gagawa, Karfkau, Keshir-keshir, Dammo-
kochi, Nakefadang, Dammele, Guye-guye, Kabiwa, Fdkeni, Gamakay, Bururu,
Gangara, Tagelel-ta-Dagabi (different from A'nnur's residence) ; Maryamatangh,
Kusummetangh (both these places are Tawarek settlements) ; Maizaki, Malemn,
Malenkaderi (prop. M'aUem Kaderi), Chiririm, Esuwi, Musheri, Miisaja, Aikauri,
Addankolle, Jemagu-Gomaigene, Lama, Hamedan, Karaza, Alkiire, Dantanka,
Agwa, Makarari, Kasalliya, Farag, Gamaran, Ungwa Sammit, Yesiyu-Negdar,
Chilim-potiik (N. of Kulankerki), Ginnari, Golmaija, Kiinkure (the tortoise),
Baya-n-Duehi (a village so called on account of its being situate behind a hil
lock or rocky eminence, and the birth-place of the chief Musa), Dakari, Maji,
Gilmiram, Maihankuba.
a b, p, and/ (or rather ph, 'p) are frequently interchanged in all the dialects
of the Central African languages.

THE HAUNTS OF THE FREEBOOTERS. 423
centres whence proceed the predatory excursions which are car
ried on continually against the northern districts of Bornu, in
formation with regard to them is not easily obtained. The chief
among them is the principality of Alakkos or Elakwas,* about
three (long) days N.E. from Zinder and two from Gure, the
present residence of Muniyoma. The ruling class in this se
questered haunt of robbers and freebooters seems to belong to
the tribe of the Tagama ; and the name of the present chief is
Abu-Bakr, who can lead into the field perhaps two hundred
horsemen. The chief place bears the same name as the whole
principality ; and besides it there are but a few small places,
among which I learned the name of Daucha. Alakkos is cele
brated among the hungry inhabitants of the desert on account
of its grain ; and in the desert-song, the verse which celebrates
the horse of Tawat is followed by another one celebrating the
grain of Alakkos, "tadak Elakwas."
Quite apart seems to be a place called Gayim, which is gov
erned by a chief called Kammedan ; and I know not whether
another place called Karbo be comprised in the same principality
or not. These are the great haunts of the freebooters, who infest
the border districts from Damerghu to the very heart of Kanem.
Thursday, January 9th. This was the great market-day in
Tagelel, on which account our departure was put off till the fol-
s lowing day ; but the market did not become thronged until a
late hour. I went there in the afternoon. The market-place,
which was about 800 yards distant from our encampment, to
ward the west, upon a small hiUy eminence, was provided with
several sheds or rtinfas. The articles laid out for sale consisted
of cotton (which was imported), tobacco, ostrich 'eggs, cheese,
mats, ropes, nets, earthenware pots, guras (or drinking-vessels
made of the Cucurbita ovifera and 0. lagenaria) and korios (or
vessels made of a fine sort of reed, for containing fluids, espe
cially milk) ; besides these there were a tolerable supply of veg
etables, and two oxen, for sale. The buyers numbered about
a hundred.
* There can scarcely be any doubt that this place has some connection with
the tribe of Ilasgwas, mentioned by Corippus.

424 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
\s In the afternoon two magozawa, or pagans, in a wfld and
fanciful attire (the dry leaves of Indian corn or sorghum hang
ing down from their barbarous head-dress and from the leather
apron, which was girt round their loins and richly ornamented
with sheUs and bits of colored cloth), danced in front of our tents
the " devil's dance" — a performance of great interest in regard
to the ancient pagan customs of these countries, and to which I
may have occasion to revert when I speak about Dodo, or the
EvU Spirit, and the representation of the souls of the dead.
Tagelel was a very important point for the proceedings of the
mission on several accounts. For here we had reached the
lands where travelers are able to proceed singly on their way ;
and here Overweg and I were to part from Mr. Eichardson, on
account of the low state of our finances, in order to try what
each of us might be able to accomplish single-handed and with
out ostentation till new supplies should arrive from home.
Here, therefore, the first section of my narrative wUl most ap
propriately terminate.

CHAPTEE XXII.

SEPARATION OP THE TRAVELERS. — THE BOEDER DISTEICTS OF
THE INDEPENDENT PAGAN CONFEDERATION. — TASAWA.
Friday, January 10th, 1851. The important day had arrived
when we were to separate not only from each other, but also
from the old chief A'nnur, upon whom our fortunes had been
dependent for so long a period. Having concealed his real in
tentions till the very last moment, he at length, with seeming
reluctance, pretended that he was going first to Zinder. He con
fided me, therefore, to the care of his brother Elaiji, a most ami
able old man, only a year younger than himself, but of a very
different character, who was to take the lead of the salt-caravan
to Kano ; and he promised me that I should arrive there in
safety. I had been so fortunate as to secure for myself, as far as that

THE SEPARATION. 425
place, the services of Gajere, who was settled in Tagelel, where
he was regarded as A'nnur's chief slave or overseer (" baba-n-
bawa"). This man I hired, together with a mare of his, for my
self, and a very fine pack-ox for that part of my luggage which
my faithful camel, the Bu-Sefi, was unable to carry. A'nnur, I
must say, behaved excellently toward me in this matter ; for,
having called me and Gajere into his presence, he presented his
trusty servant, before all the people, with a red bernus on my
account, enjoining him in the strictest terms to see me safe to
Kano. And so I separated from our worthy old friend with deep and
sincere regret. He was a most interesting specimen of an able
politician and a peaceful ruler in the midst of wild, lawless
hordes ; and I must do him the justice of declaring that he be
haved, on the whole, exceedingly weU toward us. I can not
avoid expressing the sorrow I afterward felt on account of the
step which Mr. Eichardson thought himself justified in taking
as soon as he had passed from the hands of A'nnur into those
of the authorities of Bornu, viz., to urge the sheikh of that coun
try to claim restitution from the former, not only for the value
of the things taken from us by the bordering tribes of the des
ert, but even of part of the sum which we had paid to A'nnur
himself. Such conduct, it appeared to me, was not only impol
itic, but unfair. It was impolitic, because the claim could be
of no avail, and would only serve to alienate a man from us
whom we had succeeded in making our friend ; and it was un
fair, for, although the sum which we had given to the chief was
rather large in proportion to our limited means, we were not
compeUed to pay it, but were simply given to understand that,
if we wanted the chief himself to accompany us, we must con
tribute so much. I became fully aware of the unfavorable effect
which Mr. Bichardson's proceedings in this respect produced on
the occasion of a visit which I paid the old chief in the begin
ning of the year 1853, when passing through Zinder on my way
to Timbuktu. He then mentioned the circumstance with much
feeling, and asked me if, judging from his whole behavior toward
us, he had deserved to be treated as a robber.

426 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
But to return to Tagelel. When I shook hands with the
"sofo"he was sitting, like a patriarch of old, in the midst of his
slaves and free men, male and female, and was dividing among
them presents, such as shawls and turkedies, but principally
painted arm-rings of clay, imported from Egypt, and of which the
women of these districts are passionately fond. Mr. Eichardson
being ready to start, I took a hearty farewell of him, fixing our
next place of meeting in Kukawa, about the first of April. He
was tolerably well at the time, although he had shown evident
symptoms of being greatly affected by the change from the fine
fresh air of the mountainous district of Air to the sultry climate
of the fertile lands of Negroland ; and he was quite incapable
of bearing the heat of the sun, for which reason he always car
ried an umbrella, instead of accustoming himself to it by degrees.
There was some sinister foreboding in the circumstance that I
did not feel sufficient confidence to intrust to his care a parcel
for Europe. I had sealed it expressly that he might take it
with him to Kukawa, and send it off from that place with his
own dispatches immediately after his arrival; but at the moment
of parting I preferred taking it myself to Kano. All my best
friends among the Kel-owi were also going to Zinder, in order,
as they said, to accompany their master, although only a smaU
part of the salt-caravan followed that route. Overweg and I
remained together for two or three days longer.
I felt happy in the extreme when I found myself once more
on horseback, however deficient in beauty my little mare might
be ; for few energetic Europeans, I think, will relish traveling
for any length of time on camel's back, as they are far too de
pendent on the caprice of the animal. We set out at half past
seven o'clock, and soon passed on our right a viUage, and then
a second one, which I think was Dakari, where a noble lady of
handsome figure, and well mounted upon a bullock, joined the
caravan. She was seated in a most comfortable large chair,
which was fastened on the bullock's back. We afterward pass
ed on our right the town of Olalowa, situated on a low range of
hills. In the lower plain into which we next descended I ob
served the first regular ant-hill. Small groups of corn-stacks,

WELLS OF GI'LMHJA'M. 427
or rumbus, farther on, dotted a depression or hol
low, which was encompassed on both sides with
gently sloping hills. Here I had to leave the
path of the caravan with my new companion Ga
jere, who was riding the buUock, in order to wa
ter our two beasts, a duty which now demanded our chief at
tention every day.
At length we reached the watering-place of Gilmiram, con
sisting of a group of not less than twenty wells, but all nearly
dry. The district of Damerghu must sometimes suffer greatly
from drought. The horses and cattle of the viUage were just
coming to be watered ; what time and pains it must take to
satisfy a whole herd, when we were scarcely able to water our
two animals ! Passing along through thick underwood, where
the "kalbo," with its large dry leaves of olive hue, and its long
red pods simUar to those of the khariib-tree, but much larger,
predominated almost exclusively, and leaving the village Mai-
hankuba on our right, we at last overtook the caravan ; for the
A'sbenawa pack-oxen are capable of carrying heavy loads at a
very expeditious pace, and, in this respect, leave far behind them
the pack-oxen of the fertile regions of Negroland. We now
kept along through the woody region, where the tree " goshi,"
with an edible fruit, was most frequent. We encamped in a
thickly-wooded hollow, when my sociable companion Gajere, as
weU by the care he took of our evening fire (which he arranged
in the most scientific way) as by the information he gave me
with regard to the routes leading from Zinder to Kano, contrib
uted greatly to the comfort and cheerfulness of our bivouac. I
first learned from him that there are four different routes from
Zinder to Kano — one route, the westernmost, passing by Dau
ra ; the second, passing by Kazaure ; the third, by Gani-n-
Gedunia ; the fourth, by Gummel (or, as he pronounced it, Gu
nnel*), gari-n-serki-n-Da-n-Tanoma, this being the easternmost
and longest route. Gajere himself was only acquainted with the
third route, the stations of which are as foUows :
This same variation is to be observed in the name Maradi, which many peo
ple pronounce Mariyadi.

428 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Starting from Zinder, you sleep the first night in Gogo, the
second in Mokokia, the third in Zolunzolun, the fourth in Maga
ria, the fifth in Tunfushi, the sixth in Garu-n-Gedunia, from
whence it is three days' journey to Kano.
Saturday, January 11th. My people, Gajere, and myself
started considerably in advance of the caravan, in order to wa
ter the animals at our leisure, and fill the water-skins. It was
a beautiful morning, and our march a most pleasant one ; a tall
sort of grass, called " gamba," covered the whole ground. Thus
we went on cheerfully, passing by a well at present dry, situ
ated in a small hollow, and surrounded with fine trees which
were enlivened by numbers of Guinea-fowl and wild pigeons.
Beyond this spot the country became more open, and about five
miles from the well we reached the pond, or " tebki-n-ruwa Ku-
dura," close on the right of our path. It was already partly
dried up, and the water had quite a milky color from the nature
of the ground, which consists of a whitish clay ; but during the
rainy season, and for some time afterward, when all the trees
- which surround it in its dry state stand in the midst of the wa- ,
ter, it is of considerable size. There are a great many kalbo-
trees here. We also met a small troop of men very character
istic of the country we had entered, being wanton in behavior
and light in dress, having nothing on but short skirts, the color
of which had once been dark blue, and diminutive straw hats,
while all their luggage consisted of a small leathern bag with
pounded " gero" or millet, some gourd bottles to contain the
fura, besides two or three drinking-vessels. One of them, an
exceedingly tall fellow, rode a horse scarcely able to carry him,
though the cavalier was almost as lean as his Eosinante. Soon
afterward the pond became enlivened by the arrival of a caravan
of pack-oxen, every thing indicating that we had reached a re
gion where intercourse was easy and continuous.
We remained here nearly two hours, till the " airi" came up,
when we joined it, and soon discovered the reason of their being
so long ; for in the thick underwood the long strings of camels
could not proceed fast, and the stoppages were frequent. We
then met another small caravan. At a quarter past four in the

AN AGREEABLE BIVOUAC. 429
afternoon we encamped in a locality called Amsiisu, in the midst
of the forest. We were busy pitching the tent when a body
of about sixteen horsemen came up, all dressed in the Tawarek
fashion, but plainly indicating their intermixture with the Hau
sa people by their less muscular frame, and by the variety of
their dress ; and, in fact, they all belonged to that curious mu
latto tribe called Buzu {pi. Buzawe). They were going on a
"yaki," but whether against the Awelimmiden or the FeUani
I could not learn at the time ; the latter, however, proved to be
the case.
The earth hereabouts was filled with a peculiar kind of small
worms, which greatly annoyed any person lying on the bare
ground, so that I was very fortunate in having my " gado" with
me. A bedstead of some kind is a most necessary piece of fur
niture for an African traveler, as I have already remarked on a
previous occasion ; but it should be of a lighter description than
my heavy boards, which, notwithstanding their thickness, were
soon split, and at length smashed to pieces, in the thick forests
through which we often had to pass. Our bivouac in the even
ing round our fire was exceedingly agreeable, the staid and grave
demeanor of my burly and energetic companion imposing even
upon the frivolous Mohammed, who at this time behaved much
better than usual. Gajere informed me that the direct western
road from here to Tasawa passed by the village Garari, the pond
U'rafa, the well Jiga, and by Birni-n-Tazin, while we were to
follow an eastern road. Not far from our encampment, east
ward, was a swamp named Tagelel.
Sunday, January 12th. Several camels were missing in the
morning, as was, indeed, very natural in a country like this,
thickly covered with trees and underwood. Soon, however, a
tremendously shrill cry, passing from troop to troop, and pro
ducing altogether a hiost startling effect, announced that the an
imals had been found ; and a most interesting and lively scene
ensued, each party, scattered as the caravan was through the
forest, beginning to load their camels- on any narrow, open
space at hand. The sky was thickly overcast, and the sun did
not break forth till after we had gone some three or four miles.

430 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
We passed a beautiful tsamia, or tamarind-tree, which was, I
think, the first fullTgrown tree of this species we had seen, those
in Tagelel being mere dwarfs. Having descended a little, we
passed at eleven o'clock a small hamlet or farming-village called
Kauye-n-Salakh ; and I afterward observed the first tulip-tree,
splendidly covered with the beautiful flower just open in all the
natural finery of its colors, while not a single leaf adorned the
tree. I think this was the first tree of the kind we had passed
on our road, although Overweg (whose attention I drew to it)
asserted that he had seen specimens of it the day before ; nev^
ertheless, I doubt their having escaped my observation, as I
took the greatest interest in noting down accurately where ev
ery new species of plant first appeared. At four o'clock in the
afternoon we saw the first cotton-fields, which alternated with
the corn-fields most agreeably. The former are certainly the
greatest and most permanent ornament of any landscape in these
regions, the plant being in leaf at almost every season of the
year, and partly even in a state of fructification ; but a field of
full-grown cotton-plants, in good order, is very rarely met with
in these countries, as they are left generally in a wild state,
overgrown with all sorts of rank grass. A Httle beyond these
fields we pitched our tent.
Monday, January 13th. We started at rather a late hour,
our road being crossed by a number of small paths which led to
watering-places ; and we were soon surrounded by a great many
women from a neighboring village called Baibay, offering for
sale, to the people of the caravan, "godjia," or ground-nuts, and
" dakkwa," a sort of dry paste made of pounded Guinea-corn
{Pennisetum), with dates and an enormous quantity of pepper.
This is the meaning of dakkwa in these districts ; it is, howev
er, elsewhere used as a general term signifying only paste, and
is often employed to denote a very palatable sort of sweetmeat
made of pounded rice, butter, and honey. We then passed on
our left the fields of the village, those near the road being well
and carefully fenced, and lying around the well, where half the
inhabitants of the place were assembled to draw water, which
required no small pains, the depth of the .well exceeding twenty

VILLAGES AND WELLS. 431
fathoms. Attempting to water the horse, I found that the wa
ter was excessively warm ; unfortunately, I had not got my
thermometer with me, but resolved to be more careful in future.
On passing the village, we were struck by the neatness with
which it was fenced on this side; and I afterward learned by
experience what a beautiful and comfortable dwelling may be
arranged with no other material than reeds and corn-stalks. The
population of these viUages consists of a mixture of Mohamme
dans and pagans ; but I think the majority of the inhabitants
are Mohammedans.
After a short interval of wooded country, we passed a village
of the name of Chirak, with another busy scene round the well.
In many districts in Central Africa, the labor of drawing water,
for a portion of the year, is so heavy that it occupies the great
er part of the inhabitants half the day ; but, fortunately, eut this
season, with the exception of weaving a little cotton, they have
no other employment, while, during the season when agricultu
ral labors are going on, water is to be found every where, and
the wells are not used at all. Buzawe are scattered every
where hereabouts, and infuse into the population a good deal
of Berber blood. Very pure Hausa is spoken.
It was near Chirak that Overweg, who had determined to go
directly to Tasawa, in order to commence his intended excur
sion to Gober and Maradi, separated from me. This was, in
deed, quite a gallant commencement of his undertaking, as he
had none of A'nnur's people with him, and, besides Ibrahim and
the useful, snake-like Amankay (who had recovered from his
Guinea-worm), his only companion was a Tebu who had long been
settled in A'sben, and whom he had engaged for the length of
his intended trip. At that time he had still the firm intention
to go to Kukawa by way of Kano, and begged me to leave his
things there. He was in excellent health, and full of an enthu
siastic desire to devote himself to the study of the new world
which opened before us ; and we parted with a hearty wish for
each other's success in our different quarters before we were to
meet again in the capital of Bornu, for we did not then know
that we should have an interview in Tasawa.

432 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
I now went on alone, but felt not at all depressed by solitude,
as I had been accustomed from my youth to wander about by
myself among strange people. I felt disposed, indeed, to enter
into a closer connection with my black friend Gajere, who was
very communicative, but oftentimes rather rude, and unable to
refrain from occasionally mocking the stranger who wanted to
know every thing, and would not acknowledge Mohammed in
all his prophetic glory. He called my attention to several new
kinds of trees while we were passing the two villages Baganga-
re and Tangonda. These were the " baushi," the " karammia,"
and the "gonda,"the last being identical with the Carica pa
paya, and rather rare in the northern parts of Negroland, but
very common in the country between Katsena and Nupe, and
scattered in single specimens over all the country from Kano
and Gujeba southward to the Eiver Benuwe ; but at that time I
was ignorant that it bore a splendid fruit, with which I first be
came acquainted in Katsena. The whole country, indeed, had
a most interesting and cheerful appearance, villages and corn
fields succeeding each other with only short intervals of thick
underwood, which contributed to give richer variety to the whole
landscape, while the ground was undulating, and might some
times even be called hilly. We met a numerous herd of fine
cattle, belonging to Gbzenakko, returning to their pasture-
grounds after having been watered — the bulls all with the beau
tiful hump, and of fine, strong limbs, but of moderate size, and
with small horns. Scarcely had this moving picture passed be
fore our eyes when another interesting and characteristic pro
cession succeeded — -a long troop of men, aU carrying on their
heads large baskets filled with the fruit of the goreba {Oucifera
or Hyphaene Thebdica), commonly caUed the gingerbread-tree,
which, in many of the northern districts of Negroland, furnishes
a most important article of food, and certainly seasons many
dishes very pleasantly, as I shall have occasion to mention in
the course of my narrative. Farther on, the fields were enliven
ed with cattle grazing in the stubble, while a new species of
tree, the "kirria," attracted my attention.
Thus we reached Gozenakko ; and while my servants Mo-

ENCAMPMENT AT GOZENA'KKO. 433
hammed and the Gatroni went with the camel to the camping-
ground, I followed my sturdy overseer to the village in order to
water the horse ; for, though I might have sent one of my men
afterward, I preferred taking this opportunity of seeing the in
terior of the viUage. It is of considerable size, and consists of
a town and its suburbs, the former being surrounded with a
" keffi," or close stockade of thick stems of trees, while the
suburbs are ranged around without any inclosure or defense.
All the houses consist of conical huts made entirely of stalks
and reeds, and great numbers of little granaries were scattered
among them.' As it was about half past two in the afternoon,
the people were sunk in slumber or repose, and the well was
left to our disposal ; afterward, however, we were obliged to pay
for the water. We then joined the caravan, which had encamp
ed at no great distance eastward of the village, in the stubble-
fields. These, enlivened as they were by a number of tall fan-
palms, besides a variety of other trees, formed a very cheerful
open ground for our little trading party, which, preparing for a
longer stay of two or three days, had chosen its ground in a
more systematic way, each person arranging his " takrufa," or
the straw sacks containing the salt, so as to form a barrier open
only on one side, in the shape of an elongated horseshoe, in the
recess of which they might stow away their slender stock of
less bulky property, and sleep themselves, while, in order to
protect the salt from behind, a Hght stockade of the stalks of
Guinea-corn was constructed on that side ; for having now ex
changed the regions of highway robbers and marauders for
those of thieves, we had nothing more to fear from open attacks,
but a great deal from furtive attempts by night.
.Scarcely had our people made themselves comfortable, when
their appetite was excited by a various assortment of the deli
cacies of the country, clamorously offered for sale by crowds of
women from the vUlage. The whole evening a discordant chime
was rung upon the words " nono" (sour milk), " may" (butter),
"dodowa" (the vegetable paste above mentioned), "kuka" (the
young leaves of the Adansonia, which are used for making an
infusion with which meat or the " tuwo" is eaten), and " yaru
Vol. I.— E e

434 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
da daria." The last of these names, indeed, is one which char
acterizes and illustrates the cheerful disposition of the Haus.1
people ; for the literal meaning of it is " the laughing boy," or
"the boy to laugh," while it signifies the sweet ground-nut,
which, if roasted, is indeed one of the greatest delicacies of the
country. Eeasoning from subsequent experience, I thought it
remarkable that no " tuwo" (the common paste or hasty pud
ding made of millet, called "fufu" on the western coast), which
forms the ordinary food of the natives, was offered for sale ; but
it must be borne in mind that the people of A'sben care very
little about a warm supper, and like nothing better than the fura
or ghussub-water, and the corn in its crude state, only a little
pounded. To this circumstance the Arabs generally attribute
the enormous and disgusting quantity of lice with which the
Kel-owi, even the very first men of the country, are covered.
I was greatly disappointed in not being able to procure a
fowl for my supper. The breeding of fowls seems to be earned
on to a very small extent in this village, although they are in
such immense numbers in Damerghu that a few years ago trav
elers could buy "a fowl for a needle."
Tuesday, January 14th. Seeing that we should make some
stay here, I had decided upon visiting the town of Tasawa,
which was only a few miles distant to the west, but deferred
my visit till the morrow, in order to see the town in the more
interesting phase of the "kaswa-ri-Laraba," or the Wednesday
market. However, our encampment, where I quietly spent the
day, was itself changed into a lively and bustling market ; and
even during the heat of the day the discordant cries of the seU
ers did not cease.
My intelligent and jovial companion meanwhile gave me
some valuable information with regard to the revenue of the
wealthy governor of Tasawa, who in certain respects is an in
dependent prince, though he may be called a powerful vassal of
the king or chief of Maradi. Every head of a family in his ter
ritory pays him three thousand kurdi, as " kurdi-n-kay" (head-
money or poll-tax) ; besides, there is an ample list of penalties
(" kurdi-n-laefi"), some of them very heavy : thus, for example,

REVENUES OF TASA'WA. 435
the fine for having flogged another man, or, most probably, for
having given him a sound cudgeling, is as much as ten thou
sand kurdi ; for iUicit paternity, one hundred thousand kurdi —
an enormous sum, considering the economic condition of the
population, and which, I think, plainly proves how rarely such
a thing happens in this region ; but, of course, where every man
may lawfuUy take as many wives as he is able to feed, there is
little excuse for illicit intercourse. In case of willful murder,
the whole property of the murderer is forfeited, and is of right
seized by the governor.
Each viUage has its own mayor, who decides petty matters,
and is responsible for the tax payable within his jurisdiction.
The king, or paramount 'chief, has the power of life and death,
and there is no appeal from his sentence to the ruler of Maradi.
However, he can not venture to carry into effect any measure
of consequence without asking the opinion of his privy council,
or at least that of the ghaladima or prime minister, some account
of whose office I shall have an opportunity of giving in the
course of my narrative. The little territory of Tasawa might
constitute a very happy state if the inhabitants were left in
quiet ; but they are continuaUy harassed by predatory expedi
tions, and even last evening, whUe we were encamped here, the
FeUani drove away a smaU herd of ten calves from the neigh
boring village of Kalbo.
About noon the " salt" of the serki-n-Kel-owi arrived with
the people of Olalowa, as well as that of Salah Lusu's head man,
who before had always been in advance of us. In the evening
I might have fancied myself a prince, for I had a splendid sup
per, consisting of a fowl or two, while a single maimolo cheered
me with a performance on his simple three-stringed instrument,
which, however monotonous, was still expressive of much feel
ing, and accompanied with a song in my praise.
Wednesday, January 15th. At the very dawn of day, to
my great astonishment, I was called out of the tent by Moham
med, who told me that Farraji, Lusu's man, our companion from
what, had suddenly arrived from Zinder with three or four Bor
nu horsemen, and had express orders with regard to me. How-

436 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ever, when I went out to salute him, he said nothing of his er
rand, but simply told me that he wanted first to speak to Elaiji,
the chief of the caravan. I therefore went to the latter myself
to know what was the matter, and learned from the old man
that, though he was not able to make, out all the terms of the
letters of which Farraji was the bearer, one of which was writ
ten by the sherif and the other by Liisu, he yet understood that
the horsemen had come with no other purpose but to take me
and Overweg to Zinder, without consulting our wishes, and that
the sherif as weU as Liisu had instructed him to send us off in
company with these feUows, but that they had also a letter
for A'nnur, who ought to be consulted. As for himself, the
old man (well aware of the real state of affairs, and that the
averment of a letter having arrived from the consul at Tripoli
to the effect that, tiU further measures were taken with regard to
our recent losses, we ought to stay in Bornu, was a mere sham
and fabrication) declared that he would not force us to do any
thing against our inclination, but that we ought to decide our
selves what was best to be done.
Having, therefore, a double reason for going to Tasawa, I set
out as early as possible, accompanied by my faithless, wanton
Tunisian shushan, and by my faithful, sedate Tagelali overseer.
The path leading through the suburbs of Gozenakko was well
fenced, in order to prevent any violation of property ; but on
the western side of the viUage there was scarcely any cultivated
ground, and we soon entered upon a wilderness where the
" dummia" and the " karasa" were the principal plants, when,
after a march of a little more than three miles, the wild thicket
again gave way to cultivated fields, and the town of Tasawa ap
peared in the distance — or rather (as is generally the case in
these countries, where the dwellings are so low, and where al
most all the trees round the towns are cut down, for strateget-
ical as well economical reasons) the fine shady trees in the in
terior of the town were seen, which make it a very cheerful
place. After two miles more we reached the suburbs, and,
crossing them, kept along the outer ditch which runs round the
stockade of the town, in order to reach Al Wali's house, under

THE MARKET. 437
whose special protection I knew that Mr. Overweg had placed
himself. My friend's quarters, into which we were shown, were very
comfortable, although rather narrow. They consisted of a court
yard, fenced with mats made of reeds, and containing a large
shed or "runfa," likewise built of mats and stalks, and a toler
ably spacious hut, the waUs built of clay (" bango"), but with a
thatched roof (" shibki"). The inner part of it was guarded by
a cross-waU from the prying of indiscreet eyes.
Overweg was not a little surprised on hearing the recent
news ; and we sent for El Wakhshi, our Ghadamsi friend from
Tin-teggana, in order to consult him, as one who had long re
sided in these countries, and who, we had reason to hope, would
be uninfluenced by personal considerations. He firmly pro
nounced his opinion that we ought not to go, and afterward,
when Farraji called Manzo and Al Wali to his aid, entered into
a violent dispute with these men, who advised us to go ; but he
went too far in supposing that the letter had been written with a
malicious intention. For my part, I could weU imagine that the
step was authorized by the Sheikh of Bornu, or at least by his
vizier, who might have heard long ago of our intention to go
to Kano, as it had been even Mr. Bichardson's intention to go
there, which, indeed, he ought to have done, in conformity with
his written obligations to Mohammed e' Sfaksi ; they might,
therefore, have instructed the sherif to do what he might think
fit to prevent us from carrying out our purpose. However, it
seemed not improbable that Lusu had something to do with the
affair. But it was absolutely necessary for Mr. Overweg and
myself, or for one of us, at least, to go to Kano, as we had sev
eral debts to pay, and were obliged to sell the Httle merchan
dise we had with us in order to settle our affairs.
We were still considering the question, when we were in
formed that our old protector, the chief A'nnur, had just arrived
irom Zinder, and I immediately determined to go to see him in
his own domain at Nachira, situated at a Httle more than a mile
N.E. from Tasawa. In passing through the town I crossed the
market-place, which at that time, during the hot hours of the

438 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
day, was very well frequented, and presented a busy scene of the
highest interest to the traveler emerging from the desert, and to
which the faint sparks of life still to be observed in A'gades can
not be compared. A considerable number of cattle were offered
for sale, as weU as six camels, and the whole market was sur
rounded by continuous rows of runfas or sheds ; but provisions
and ready-dressed food formed the staple commodity, and scarce
ly any thing of value was to be seen. On leaving the town I
entered an open country covered with stubble-fields, and soon
reached that group of Nachira where the chief had fixed his
quarters. In front of the yard was a most splendid tamarind-
tree, such as I had not yet seen. Leaving my horse in its shade,
I entered the yard, accompanied by Gajere, and looked about
for some time for the great man, when at length we discovered
him under a small shed or runfa of a conical form, so low that
we had passed it without noticing the people collected in its
shade. There he lay, surrounded by his attendants, as was his
custom in general when reposing in the daytime, with no cloth
ing but his trowsers, whUe his shirt, roUed up, formed a pillow
to rest his left arm upon. He did not seem to be in the best
humor — at least he did not say a single cheerful word to me;
and, though it was the very hottest time of the day, he did not
offer me as much as a draught of water. I had expected to be
treated to a bowl of well-soaked " fura" seasoned with cheese.
But what astonished me more than his miserly conduct (which.
was rather familiar to me) was, that I learned from his own
mouth that he had not been to Zinder at all, whither we had
been assured he had accompanied Mr. Eichardson, but that he
had spent all the time in Tagedel, from which place he had now
come direct. I was therefore the more certain that Liisu had
some part in the intrigues. A'nnur, who had not yet received
the letter addressed to him from Zinder, knew nothing about it,
and merely expressed his surprise that such a letter had been
written, without adding another word.
Seeing the old chief in a very cheerless humor, I soon left
him, and took a ramble with Gajere over the place. • The estate
is very extensive, and consists of a great many clusters of huts

A'NNUR'S ESTATE. 439
scattered over the fields, while isolated dum-palms give to the
whole a peculiar feature. The people, all followers and mostly
domestic slaves of A'nnur, seemed to live in tolerable ease and
comfort, as far as I was able to see, my companion introducing
me into several huts. Indeed, every candid person, however
opposed to slavery he may be, must acknowledge that the Ta
warek in general, and particularly the Kel-owi, treat their slaves
not only humanely, but even with the utmost indulgence and
affability, and scarcely let them feel their bondage at all. Of
course there are exceptions, as the cruelty of yoking slaves to a
plow, and driving them on with a whip (which I had witnessed
in Aiideras) is scarcely surpassed in any of the Christian slave
states; but these exceptions are extremely rare.
When I returned from my ramble Mr. Overweg had also ar
rived, and the old chief had received the letter; and, though nei
ther he nor any of his people could read it, he was fully aware
of its contents, and disapproved of it entirely, saying that we
should act freely, and according to the best of our knowledge.
I then returned with my countryman into the town, and remain
ed some time with him. In front of his dwelling was encamped
the natron-caravan of Al Wali, which in a few days was to leave
for Nupe or (as the Hausa people say) Nyffi. We shall have
to notice very frequently this important commerce, which is car
ried on between the shores of the Tsad and Nyffi.
I left the town at about five o'clock, and feeling rather hun
gry on reaching the encampment in Gozenakko, to the great
amusement of our neighbors, parodying the usual salute of "ina
labari" (what is the news) ? I asked my people immediately
the news of our cooking-pot, "ina labari-n-tokonia" (what news
of the pot)? I was greatly pleased with my day's excursion, for
Tasawa was the first large place of Negroland proper which I
had seen, and it made the most cheerful impression upon me,
as manifesting every where the unmistakable marks of the com
fortable, pleasant sort of life led by the natives : the court-yard
fenced with a " derne" of tall reeds, excluding to a certain de
gree the eyes of the passer-by, without securing to the interior
absolute secrecy; then, near the entrance, the cool, shady place

440 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of the "runfa"'for ordinary business and for the reception of
strangers, and the "gida," partly consisting entirely of reed
(" daki-n-kara") of the best wicker-work, partly built of clay in
its lower parts ("bongo"), while the roof consists of reeds only
("shibki"); but, of whatever material it may consist, it is warm
and well adapted for domestic privacy — the whole dwelling
shaded with spreading trees, and enlivened with groups of chil
dren, goats, fowls, pigeons, and, where a Httle wealth had been
accumulated, a horse or a pack-ox.
With this character of the dwellings, that of the inhabitants
themselves is in entire harmony, its most constant element be
ing a cheerful temperament, bent upon enjoying life, rather given
to women, dance, and song, but without any disgusting excess.
Every body here finds his greatest happiness in a comely lass ;
and as soon as he makes a little profit, he adds a young wife to
his elder companion in life : yet a man has rarely more than two
wives at a time. Drinking fermented liquor can not be strictly
reckoned a sin in a place where a great many of the inhabitants
are pagans; but a drunken person, nevertheless, is scarcely
seen : those who are not Mohammedans only indulge in their
" giya," made of sorghum, just enough to make them merry and
enjoy Hfe with more light-heartedness. There was at that time
a renegade Jew in the place called Musa, who made spirits of
dates and tamarinds for his own use. Their dress is very sim
ple, consisting, for the man, of a wide shirt and trowsers, mostly
of a dark color, whUe the head is generally covered with a light
cap of cotton cloth, which is negligently worn, in aU sorts of
fashions. Others wear a rather closely-fitting cap of green cloth,
called baki-n-zaki. Only the wealthier among them can afford
the "zenne" or shawl, thrown over the shoulder like the plaid
of the Highlanders. On their feet the richer class wear very
neat sandals, such as we shaU describe among the manufactures
of Kan6.
As for the women, their dress consists almost entirely of a
large cotton cloth, also of dark color — "the turkedi"— fastened
under or above the breast, the only ornament of the latter in
general consisting of some strings of glass beads worn round

LETTER TO THE SHERI'F EL FA'SI. 441
the neck. The women are tolerably handsome, and have pleas
ant features ; but they are worn out by excessive domestic la
bor, and their growth never attains full and vigorous propor
tions. They do not bestow so much care upon their hair as
the FeUani, or some of the Bagirmi people.
There are in the town a good many " Buzawe," or Tawarek
half-castes, who distinguish themselves in their dress principally
by the "rayvani" or tesilgemist (the litham) of white or black
color, which they wind round their head in the same way as the
Kel-owi ; but their mode of managing the tuft of hair left on
the top of the head is not always the same, some wearing their
curled hair aU over the crown of their head, while others leave
only a long tuft, which was the old fashion of the Zenagha.
The pagan inhabitants of this district wear in general only a
leather apron (" wuelki"); but, with the exception of young chil
dren, none are seen here quite naked. The town was so busy,
and seemed so weU inhabited, that on the spot I estimated its
population at fifteen thousand ; but this estimate is probably
,too high.
Thursday, January 16th. We still remained near Gozenak-
ko, and I was busy studying Temashight, after which I once
more went over the letter of the sherif El Fasi, Haj Beshir's
agent in Zinder ; and having become fully aware of the dictato
rial manner in which he had requested Elaiji to forward me and
Mr. Overweg to him (just as a piece of merchandise) without
asking our consent, I sat down to write him a suitable answer,
assuring him that, as I was desirous of paying my respects to
the son of Mohammed el Kanemi and his enlightened vizier, I
would set out for their residence as soon as I had settled my
affairs in Kano, and that I was sure of attaining my ends with
out his intervention, as I had not the least desire to visit him.
This letter, as subsequent events proved, grew into import
ance, for the sherif, being perplexed by its tone, sent it straight
on to Kukawa, where it served to introduce me at once to the
sheikh and his vizier. But the difficulty was to send it off with
the warlike messengers who had brought the sherif 's letters, as
they would not go without us, and swore that their orders, from

442 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the sherif as well as from Serk' Ibram, were so peremptory that
they should be utterly disgraced if they returned empty-handed.
At length, after a violent dispute with Farraji and these warlike-
looking horsemen, the old chief, who took my part very fairly,
finished the matter by plainly stating that if we ourselves, of
our own free will, wanted to go, we might do so ; but if we did
not wish to go, instead of forcing us, he would defend us against
any body who should dare to offer us violence. Nevertheless,
the messengers would not depart, and it seemed impossible to
get rid of them till I made each of them a present of two mith
kals, when they mounted their horses with a very bad grace,
and went off with my letter. The energetic and straightfor
ward but penurious old chief left us in the afternoon, and rode
to Kalgo, a village at no great distance.
Friday, January 11th. Still another day of halt, in order,
as I was told, to allow Haj 'Abduwa's salt-caravan to come up
and join us. Being tired of the camp, I once more went into
the town to spend my day usefully and pleasantly ; leaving all
my people behind, I was accompanied by some of my feUow-
travelers of the caravan. Arriving at Overweg's quarters, what
was my surprise to find Farraji not yet gone, but endeavoring
to persuade my companion, with aU the arts of his barbarous
eloquence, that, though I should not go, he at least might, in
which case he would be amply rewarded with the many fine
things which had been prepared in Zinder for our reception.
The poor fellow was greatly cast down when he saw me, and
soon made off in very bad humor, while I went with Mr. Over
weg to El Wakhshi, who was just occupied in that most te
dious of all commercial transactions in these countries, namely,
the counting of sheUs ; for in all these inland countries of Cen
tral Africa the cowries or kurdi {Cyprcea monetd) are not, as is
customary in some regions near the coast, fastened together in
strings of one hundred each, but are separate, and must be
counted one by one. Even those " takrufa" (or sacks made of
rushes) containing 20,000 kurdi each, as the governors of the
towns are in the habit of packing them up, no private individual
wiU receive without counting them out. The general custom

COUNTING SHELLS.— A PETTY SULTAN. 443
in so doing is to count them by fives, in which operation some
are very expert, and then, according to the amount of the sum,
to form heaps of two hundred (or ten hawiyas*) or a thousand
each. Having at length succeeded, with the help of some five
or six other people, in the really heroic work of counting
500,000 shells, our friend went with us to the sick sultan Ma
zawaji : I say sultan, as it is well for a traveler to employ these
sounding titles of petty chiefs, which have become naturalized
in the country from very ancient times, although it is very likely
that foreign governments would be unwilling to acknowledge
them. The poor fellow, who was living in a hut built half of
mud, half of reeds, was suffering under a dreadful attack of dys
entery, and looked like a spectre. Fortunately, my friend suc
ceeded in bringing on perspiration with some hot tea and a good
dose of peppermint, in the absence of stronger medicines. We
then went to the house of Amankay, that useful fellow so often
mentioned in the journal of the late Mr. Eichardson and by
myself. He was a " buzu" of this place, and had many rela
tives here, aU living near him. His house was built in the
general style ; but the interior of the court-yard was screened
from profane eyes. Fortunately, I had taken with me soirie
smaU things, such as mirrors, English darning-needles, and some
knives, so that I was able to give a smaU present to each of
his kinsmen and relatives, whUe he treated us with a calabash
of fura.
In the afternoon we strolled a long time about the market,
which, not being so crowded as the day before yesterday, was
on that account far more favorable for observation. Here I first
saw and tasted the bread made of the fruit of the magaria-tree,
and caUed " tuwo-n-magaria," which I have mentioned before,
and was not a little astonished to see whole calabashes fiUed
with roasted locusts (" fara"), which occasionally form a consid
erable part of the food of the natives, particularly if their grain
has been destroyed by this plague, as they can then enjoy not
" Hawiya" means twenty, and seems originally to have been the highest sum
reached by the indigenous arithmetic. I shall say more about this point in my
vocabulary of the Hausa language.

444 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
only the agreeable flavor of the dish, but also take a pleasant re
venge on the ravagers of their fields. Every open space in the
midst of the market-place was occupied by a fireplace (" mai-
deffa") on a raised platform, on which diminutive morsels of
meat, attached to a smaU stick, were roasting, or rather stew
ing, in such a way that the fat, trickling down from the richer
pieces attached to the top of the stick, basted the lower ones.
These dainty bits were sold for a single sheU or " uri"* each.
I was much pleased at recognizing the red cloth which had been
stolen from my bales in the valley of Afis, and which was ex
posed here for sale. But the most interesting thing in the town
was the "marina" (the dyeing-place) near the wall, consisting
of a raised platform of clay with fourteen holes or pits, in which
the mixture of indigo is prepared, and the cloths remain for a
certain length of time, from one to seven days, according to the
color which they are to attain. It is principally this dyeing, I
think, wliich gives to many parts of Negroland a, certain tinc
ture of civilization — a civilization which it would be highly in
teresting to trace, if it were possible, through aU the stages of
its development.
While rambling about, Overweg and I for a while were great
ly annoyed by a taU feUow, very respectably and most pictur
esquely dressed, who professed himself to be a messenger from
the Governor of Katsena, sent to offer us his compliments and
to invite us to go to him. Though the thing was not altogeth
er impossible, it looked rather improbable; and having thanked
him profusely for his civUity, we at length succeeded in getting
rid of him. In the evening I returned to our camping-ground
with I'dder, the Emgedesi man mentioned in a preceding part
of my narrative, and was very glad to receive reliable informa
tion that we were to start the following day.
* "Kurdi" (shells) is the irregular plural of "uri'' (a single shell).

GAZAWA. 445

CHAPTEE XXIII.
GAZAWA. — RESIDENCE IN KATSENA.
Saturday, January 18th. We made a good start with our
camels, which, having been treated to a considerable allowance of
salt on the first day of our halt, had made the best possible use of
these four days' rest to recruit their strength. At the consider
able viUage of Kalgo, which we passed at a little less than five
mnes beyond our encampment, the country became rather hilly,
but only for a short distance. Tamarinds constituted the great
est ornament of the landscape. A solitary traveler attracted our
notice on account of his odd attire, mounted as he was on a bul
lock with three large pitchers on each side. Four miles beyond
Kalgo the character of the country became suddenly changed,
and dense groups of dum-palms covered the ground. But what
pleased me more than the sight of these slender forked trees was
when, half an hour after midday, I recognized my splendid old
friend the bore-tree, of the valley Boghel,* which had excited
my surprise in so high a degree, and the magnificence of which
at its first appearance was not at aU eclipsed by this second
specimen in the fertile regions of Negroland. Soon afterward
we reached the faddama of Gazawa ; and leaving the town on
our right hidden in the thick forest, we encamped a little farther
on in an open place, which was soon crowded with hucksters
and retaUers. I was also pestered with a visit from some half-
caste Arabs settled in the town ; but, fortunately, seeing that
they were likely to wait in vain for a present, they went off, and
were soon succeeded by a native m'allem from the town, whose
visit was most agreeable to me.
* It might seem to some readers that there is some connection between the
name of the valley and the tree ; but I think it is merely accidental. The Hausa
language is not a written language ; but if the natives were to write the name
"bore" or "baure," they would certainly write it with an r, and not with a gh.

446 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
About sunset the " serki-n-turawa," or consul of the Arabs,
came to pay his regards to Elaiji, and introduced the subject of
a present, which, as he conceived, I ought to make to the gov
ernor of the town as a sort of passage-money ; my protector,
however, would not listen to the proposal, but merely satisfied
his visitor's curiosity by caUing me into his presence and intro
ducing him to me. The serki was very showily and picturesque
ly dressed — in a green and white striped tobe, wide trowsers of
speckled pattern and color, like the plumage of the Guinea-fowl,
With an embroidery of green silk in front of the legs. Over this
he wore a gaudy red bemus, while round his red cap a red and
white turban was wound crosswise in a very neat and careful
manner. His sword was slung over his right shoulder by means
of thick hangers of red silk ornamented with enormous tassels.
He was mounted on a splendid charger, the head and neck of
which was most fancifully ornamented with a profusion of tas
sels, bells, and little leather pockets containing charms, while
from under the saddle a shabrack peeped out, consisting of little
triangular patches in all the colors of the rainbow.
This little African dandy received me with a profusion of the
finest compliments, pronounced with the most refined and sweet
accent of which the Hausa language is capable. When he was
gone, my old friend Elaiji informed me that he had prevented
the " consul of the Arabs" from exacting a present from me, and
begged me to acknowledge his service by a cup of coffee, which,.
of course, I granted him with all my heart. Poor old Elaiji !
He died in the year 1854, in the forest between Gazawa and
Katsena, where, from the weakness of age, he lost his way when
left alone. He has left on my memory an image which I shall
always recall with pleasure. He was certainly the most honor
able and religious man among the Kel-owi.
The market in our encampment, which continued till night
fall, reached its highest pitch at sunset, when the people of the
town brought ready-made " tuwo," each dish, with rather a small
allowance, selling for three kurdi, or not quite the fourth part of
a farthing. I, however, was happy in not being thrown upon
this three-kurdi supper ; and, while I indulged in my own home-

CAMP LIFE. 447
made dish, Gajere entertained me with the narrative of a nine
days' siege, which the warlike inhabitants of Gazawa had sus
tained, ten years previously, against the whole army of the fa
mous Bello.
Sunday, January 19th. We remained encamped, and my
day was most agreeably and usefully spent in gathering infor
mation with regard to the regions which I had just entered.
There was first Ma' adi, the slave of A'nnur, a native of Bornu,
who, when young, had been made a prisoner by the Biidduma
of the lake, and had resided three years among these interesting
people, till, having fallen into the hands of the Welad SHman,
then in Kanem, he at length, on the occasion of the great expe
dition of the preceding year, had fallen into the power of the
Kel-owi. Although he owed the loss of his liberty to the free
booting islanders, he was nevertheless a great admirer of theirs,
and a sincere vindicator of their character. He represented
them as a brave and high-spirited people, who made glorious
and successful inroads upon the inhabitants of the shores of the
lake with surprising celerity, while at home they were a pious
and God-fearing race, and knew neither theft nor fraud among
themselves. He concluded his eloquent eulogy of this valorous
nation of pirates by expressing his fervent hope that they might
forever preserve their independence against the ruler of Bornu.
I then wrote, from the mouth of Gajere and Yahia (another
of my friends), a list of the places lying round about Gazawa,
as follows : On the east side, Madobi, Maijirgi,*K6gena na kay-
debu, Kormasa, Korgom, Kanche (a little independent principal
ity) ; Gumda, half a day east of Gazawa, with numbers of A's-
benawa ; Dembeda or Dumbida, at less distance ; Shabali, Ba-
bil, Turmeni, Gfnga, Kandemka, Sabo-n-kef f, Zangoni-n-akwa,
Kumi, Kurnawa, Dangudaw. On the west side, where the coun
try is more exposed to the inroads of the Fulbe or Fellani, there
is only one place of importance, called Tindtikku, which name
seems to imply a close relation of the Tawarek. All these towns
This village I touched at on my journey from Zinder to Katsena in 1853 — a
journey which is of great importance for the construction of my routes collect-
"'ely, as it forms the link between my first route and Zinder.

448 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
and villages are said to be in a certain degree dependent on
Eaffa, the " baba" {i. e., great man or chief) of Gazawa, who,
howewer, owes himself allegiance to the supreme ruler of Ma
radi. There was an exciting stir in the encampment at about ten
o'clock in the morning, illustrative of the restless struggle going
on in these regions. A troop of about forty horsemen, mostly
well mounted, led on by the serkf-n-Gumda, and foUowed by a
body of tall, slender archers, quite naked but for their leathern
aprons, passed through the different rows of the airi on their
way to join the expedition which the prince of Maradi was pre
paring against the Fellani.
About noon the natron-caravan of Haj Al Wali, which I had
seen in Tasawa, came marching up in solemn order, led on by
two drums, and affording a pleasant specimen of the character
of the Hausa people. Afterward I went into the town, which
was distant from my tent about half a mUe, being much exposed
to attacks from the Mohammedans, as the southernmost pagan
place belonging to the Maradi-Gober union, Gazawa, has no
open suburbs outside its strong stockade, which is surrounded
by a deep ditch. It forms almost a regular quadrangle, having
a gate on each side buUt of clay, which gives to the whole for
tification a more regular character, besides the greater strength
which the place derives from this precaution. Each gateway is
twelve feet deep, and furnished on its top with a rampart suffi
ciently capacious for about a dozen archers. The interior of
the town is almost of the same character as Tasawa ; but Ga
zawa is rather more closely built, though I doubt whether its
circumference exceeds that of the former place. The market is
held every day, but, as might be supposed, is far inferior to that
of Tasawa, which is a sort of little entrepot for the merchants
coming from the north, and affords much more security than
Gazawa, which, though an important place with regard to the
struggle carried on between Paganism and Islamism in these
quarters, is not so with respect to commerce. The principal
things offered for sale were cattle, meat, vegetables of different
kinds, and earthenware pots. Gazawa has also a marina or

MARCH RESUMED. 449
lyeing-place,but of less extent than that of Tasawa, as most of
its inhabitants are pagans, and wear no clothing but the leathern
apron. Their character appeared to me to be far more grave
than that of the inhabitants of Tasawa ; and this is a natural
consequence of the precarious position in which they are placed,
is well as of their more warlike disposition. The whole popu
lation is certainly not less than ten thousand.
Having visited the market, I went to the house of the m'al-
lem, where I found several A'sbenawa belonging to our caravan
enjoying themselves in a very simple manner, eating the fruits
of the kana, which are a little larger than cherries, but not so
soft and succulent. The m'aUem, as I had an opportunity of
learning on thus occasion, is a protege of Elaiji, to whom the
house belongs. Eeturning with my companions to our encamp
ment, I witnessed a very interesting sort of dance, or rather
gymnastic play, performed on a large scale by the Kel-owi, who,
being arranged in long rows in pairs, and keeping up a regular
motion, pushed along several of their number under their arms
—not very unlike some of our old dances.
Monday, January 20th. Starting early in the morning, we
felt the cold very sensibly, the thermometer standing at 48°
Fahr. a little before sunset. Cultivated fields interrupted from
time to time the underwood for the first three miles, while the
"ngille," or "kaba," formed the most characteristic feature of
the landscape ; but dum-palms, at first very rarely seen, soon
became prevalent, and continued for the next two miles. Then
the country became more open, while in the distance to the left
extended a low range of hills. New species of trees appeared,
which I had not seen before, as the "kokia," a tree with large
leaves of a dark green color, with a green fruit of the size of an
apple, but not eatable. The first solitary specimens of the gi-
gifia or deleb-palm, which is one of the most characteristic trees
of the more southern regions, were also met with.
, Moving silently along, about noon we met a considerable car
avan, with a great number of oxen and asses led by two horse
men, and protected in the rear by a strong guard'of archers ; for
this is one of the most dangerous routes in all Central Africa,
Vol. I._ f p

450 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
where every year a great many parties are plundered by ma
rauders, no One being responsible for the security of this dis
puted territory. We had here a thick forest on our left, enliven
ed by numbers of birds ; then, about two o'clock in the after
noon, we entered a fine, undulating country covered with a pro
fusion of herbage, while the large gamshi-tree, with its broad,
fleshy leaves of the finest green, formed the most remarkable
object of the vegetable kingdom. All this country was once a
bustling scene of life, with numbers of towns and villages, till,
at the very commencement of this century, the " Jihadi," or Be-
former, rose among the Fulbe of Gober, and, inflaming them
with fanatic zeal, urged them on to merciless war against pagans
as well as Mohammedans.
It was here that my companions drew my attention to the
tracks of the elephant, of whose existence in the more northern
regions we had not hitherto seen the slightest trace, so that this
seems to be the limit of its haunts on this side ; and it was
shortly afterward that Gajere descried in the distance a living
specimen making slowly off to the east, but my sight was not
strong enough to distinguish it. Thus we entered the thicker
part of the forest, and about half past four in the afternoon
reached the site of the large town of Dankama, whither Maga-
jin Haddedu, the King of Katsena, had retired after his resi
dence had been taken by the Fulbe, and from whence he waged
unrelenting but unsuccessful war against the bloody-minded en
emies of the religious as well as political independence of his
country. Once, indeed, the Fulbe were driven out of Katsena,
but they soon returned with renewed zeal and with a fresh
army, and the Hausa prince was expelled from his ancient cap
ital forever. After several battles, Dankama, whither all the
nobility and wealth of Katsena had retired, was taken, ransack
ed, and burned.
A solitary colossal kuka* (baobab), representing in its huge,
* It has been remarked by travelers that this tree is only found near some
dwelling-place of man ; but I doubt whether we are authorized to regard all
those specimens of it which are scattered over the wilds of Central Africa as
marking the site of former towns.

ISLA'M AND PAGAN STRUGGLE. 451
leafless, and gloomy frame the sad recollections connected with
the spot, shoots out from the prickly underwood which thickly
overgrows the locality,* and points out the market-place, once
teeming with life. It was a most affecting moment ; for, as if
afraid of the evil spirits dweUing in this wild and deserted spot,
all the people of the caravan, while we were thronging along the
narrow paths opening between the thick, prickly underwood,
shouted with wild cries, cursing and execrating the FeUani, the
authors of so much mischief, all the drums were beating, and
every one pushed on in order to get out of this melancholy
neighborhood as soon as possible.
' Having passed, a little after sunset, a large granitic mass pro
jecting from the ground, called Korrematse, and once a place
of worship, we saw in the distance in front the fires of those
parties of the airi which had preceded us ; and greeting them
with a wild cry, we encamped on the uneven ground in great
disorder, as it had become quite dark. After a long march, I
felt very glad when the tent was at length pitched. While the
fire was Hghted and the supper preparing, Gajere informed me
that, besides Dankama, Bello destroyed also the towns of Jan-
kiiki and Madawa in this district, which now presents such a
frightful wilderness, t
In the course of the night the roar of a lion was heard close
by our encampment.
Tuesday, January 21st. We started, with general enthusi
asm, at an early hour ; and the people of our troop, seeing the
* The Hausa people call the site of a former town " kufai," in the plural form
"kufaife." t Gajere enumerated to me also the following places as lying toward the
northwest of our road in the direction of Maradi, viz., Wala, Golkiika, Haruma-
"a, Gindawa, Majene, Kore, Dandabu, Kiibdu (a large place belonging to Asta
fidet), Samia maigijje, Rubakia, Furagirke, Age, Kukiita, Kafi mayalri (which ap
proaches within a little distance of Tindukku, the place I mentioned above).
Farther southward, on the west side of our route, were mentioned Siiruru and
Kofi; to the east, Samia maidankay. On inquiring after Samia Enkora, a place
mentioned in an itinerary sent home by Mr. Richardson during his first journey,
I learned that it lies on an eastern road leading from Damerghu to Tasawa by
the following stations (the march being slow from Tagelel) : Baibay, Kame, Sa
mia Efltora (this is said to be the right form of the name), Dandu, Gomariyuma,
Tasawa.

452 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
fires of the other divisions of the salt-caravan in front of us
still burning, jeered at their laziness, till at length, on approach
ing within a short distance of the fires, we found that the other
people had set out long before, leaving their fires burning. A
poor woman, carrying a load en her head, and leading a pah of
goats, had attached herself to our party in Gazawa ; and though
she had lost her goats in the bustle of the previous afternoon,
she continued her journey cheerfully and with resignation.
After five hours' march the whole caravan was suddenly
brought to a stand for some time, the cause of which was a
ditch of considerable magnitude, dug right across the path, and
leaving only a narrow passage, the beginning of a small path
which wound along through thick thorny underwood. This,
together with the ditch, formed a sort of outer defense for the
cultivated fields and the pasture-grounds of Katsena, against
any sudden inroad. Having passed another projecting mass
of granite rock, we passed two small villages on our left, called
Tulla and Takumaku, from whence the inhabitants came out to
salute us. We encamped at length in a large stubble-field, be
yond some kitchen -gardens, where pumpkins (dumma) were
planted, two miles N.E. from the town of Katsena. While we
were pitching my tent, which was the only one in the whole
encampment, the sultan or governor of Katsena came out with
a numerous retinue of horsemen, all well dressed and mounted;
and having learned from Elaiji that I was a Christian traveler
belonging to a mission (a fact, however, which he knew long
before), he sent me soon afterward a ram and two large cala
bashes or dummas filled with honey — an honor which was rath
er disagreeable to me than otherwise, as it placed me under the
necessity of making the governor a considerable present in re
turn. I had no article of value with me, and I began to feel
some unpleasant foreboding of future difficulties.
An approximative estimate of the entire number of the salt-
caravan, as affording the means of accurately determining the
amount of a great national commerce carried on between wide
ly-separated countries, had much occupied my attention, and
having in vain tried on the road to arrive at such an estimate,

ESTIMATE OF SALT-CARAVAN. 453
I did all I could to-day to obtain a list of the different divisions
composing it ; but, although Yahia, one of the principal of A'n
nur's people, assured me that there were more than thirty troops,
I was not able to obtain particulars of more than the following,
viz., encamped on this same ground with us was the salt-cara
van of A'nnur, of Elaiji, of Hamma with the Kel-tafidet, of Sa
lah, of Haj Makhmud with the Kel-tagrimmat, of A'maki with
the Amakita, of the Imasaghlar (led by Mohammed dan A'ggeg),
of the Kel-azaneres, of the Kel-inger (the people of Zingina), of
the Kel-agwau, and finally that of the Kel-chemia. No doubt
none of these divisions had more than two hundred camels laden
with salt, exclusive of the young -and the spare camels; the
whole of the salt, therefore, collected here at the time was, at
the utmost, worth one hundred millions of kurdi, or about eight
thousand pounds sterling. Besides the divisions of the airi
which I have just enumerated as encamped on this spot, the
Erazar were still behind, while the following divisions had gone
on in advance : the Kel-n-Neggaru ; the Iserararan, with the
chief Barka and the tamberi (war chieftain) Nasoma ; and the
Ikazkezan, with the chiefs Mohammed Irolagh and Wuentusa.
We may therefore not be far from the truth if we estimate
the whole number of the salt-caravan of the Kel-owi of this year
at two thousand five hundred camels. To this must be added
the salt which had gone to Zinder, and which I estimate at
about a thousand camel-loads, and that which had been left in
Tasawa for the supply of the markets of the country as far as
Gober, which I estimate at from two hundred to three hundred
camel-loads. But it must be borne in mind that the country
of A'sben had been for some time in a more than ordinarily tur
bulent state, and that consequently the caravan was at this
juncture probably less numerous than it would be in quiet
times. Being rather uneasy with regard to the intention of the gov
ernor of the province, I went early the next morning to Elaiji,
and assured him that, besides some small things, such as razors,
doves, and frankincense, I possessed only two red caps to give
to the governor, and that I could not afford to contract more

454 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
debts by buying a bernus. The good old man was himself
aware of the governor's intention, who, he told me, had made up
his mind to get a large present from me, otherwise he would not
allow me to continue my journey. I wanted to visit the town,
but was prevented from doing so under these circumstances, and
therefore remained in the encampment.
The governor, who spends a great deal of his time in a coun
try-house which he has recently built outside the town, about
noon held a sort of review of several hundred horsemen, whose
horses, in general, were in exceUent condition. They were
armed with a straight sword hanging on the left, a long heavy
spear for thrusting, and a shield, either of the same description
as that of the Tawarek, of oblong shape, made of the hide of the
large antelope {Leucoryx), or else of bullock's or elephant's hide,
and forming an immense circular disk of about five feet in di
ameter ; some of them wore also the dagger at the left arm,
while I counted not more than four or five muskets. Their
dress was picturesque, and not too flowing for warlike purposes,
the large shirt, or shirts (for they generaUy wear two), being fast
ened round the breast with an Egyptian shawl with a red bor
der ; and even those who were dressed in a bernus had it wound
round their breast. Most of them wore black " rawani," or
shawls, round their faces, a custom which the FeUani of Hausa
have adopted from the Tawarek merely on account of its look
ing warlike, for they have no superstitious reason for covering
the mouth. The harness of the horses was all of Hausa man
ufacture, the saddles very different from those of the Tawarek
(which seem to be identical with the old Arab saddles). The
stirrups formed a very peculiar kind of medium between the
large unwieldy stirrups of the modern Arab and the small ones
of the Tawarek and Europeans, the sole of the stirrup being
long, but turned down at both ends, while it is so narrow that
the rider can only thrust the naked foot into it. I could
not understand the principle upon which this kind .of
stirrup is made. It appeared to be a most absurd speci
men of workmanship.
The FeUani in Katsena have good reason to be on their guard

EQUESTRIAN MUSICIANS. 455
against the Kel-owi, who, in an underhand way, are always as
sisting the independent Hausa states of Gober and Maradi in
their struggle, and might some day easily make common cause
with them to drive out these arrogant intruders from the con
quered provinces. In fact, they have done all in their power to
attain this object ; and A'nnur's policy is so well known to the
FeUani, that once when he came to Katsena he received most
shameful treatment at their hands. Afterward I was visited by
El Wakhshi, and paid him, in return, a visit at that part of the
encampment where some of his merchandise was deposited, for
he himself was living in the town. Here he introduced to me a
person who was very soon to become one of my direst torment
ors, the bare remembrance of whom is even now unpleasant ; it
was the haj Bel-Ghet, a man born in Tawat, but who had long
been settled in Katsena, and though not with the title, yet in re
ality holding the office of " a serki-n-turawa."
A troop of eight mounted royal musicians (" masukidda-n-
serki"), who had been playing the whole day before the several
divisions of the " airi," came likewise to my tent in the course
of the afternoon, and gratified my ears with a performance on
their various instruments. There was the drum, or " ganga,"
very much like our own instrument of that kind, and of about
the same size as the common regimental drum ; the long wind
instrument, or " pampamme ;" a shorter one, a sort of flute, or
"elgaita;"* a sort of double tambourine, or " kalango ;" a sim
ple tympanum, or koso ;" a sort of double Egyptian darabiika,
called "jqjo," and a small horn, or " kafo." The most common
among them is the "jqjo," which in Hausa is the chief instru
ment made use of in an expedition, and, if accompanied by the
voice, is not disagreeable. With these various instruments the
well-mounted horsemen made a pretty good noise; but it was
neither harmonious nor characteristic : to all this pompous imi
tative music I prefer a few strains with natural feeling by a sol
itary maimolo. I was obliged to reward my entertainers with
* All sorts of wind instruments, the flute included, are called by the Hausa
people " bushe-bushe," from which word the Fellani-n-Hausa have formed " fu-
fefufeji."

456 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
a large quantity of cloves, as I had scarcely any thing else
left. I was rather astonished to hear that the A'sbenawa do not
pay passage-money to the governor according to the number of
their camels, but that every freeman among them makes him a
present of one kantu of salt. For every beast of burden, be it
pack-ox or donkey, five hundred kurdi are generally paid.
Thursday, January 23d. Having assorted such a present as
I could afford, I protested once more to Elaiji that, my other
luggage having gone on in advance to Kano, I had but very lit
tle to offer the governor.
I went about noon with my protector and a great number of
A'sbenawa to offer the governor my compliments and my pres
ent. Sitting down under a tree at a considerable distance from
the spot where he himself was seated, we waited a little, till we
should be caUed into his presence, when his brother, who held
the office of ghaladima, came to us — a man of immense corpu
lency, resembling a eunuch. Indeed, nothing but the cut of
his face, his aquiline nose, and rather light color, and the little
goatlike beard which ornamented his chin, could expose him to
the suspicion of being a Ptillo or Ba-Fellanchi.* He wanted to
treat my business apart from that of Elaiji, who, however, de
clared that he had come only for my sake. While the fat ghar
ladima was returning to inform his brother of what he had heard,
a troop of well-mounted Kel-esararf (who, as I was told, are
settled at present in the province of Katsena) came up at full
speed. It was not long before a servant came from the serki,
inviting me alone into his presence.
Mohammed BeUo Yerima, the eldest son of the former well-
known Governor M'aUem Ghomaro,f was seated under a wide-
spreading and luxuriant tamarind-tree, dressed simply in a large
white shirt, with a black rawani round his face. The A'sbena-
* This is the only correct Hausa form for the singular of Fellani.
t I afterward heard that these people belonged to the Keltidik, and possessed
large establishments of slaves and farms in Dwan and Shirgingim.
X The Fiilbe generally change the 'ain into ghain, and therefore say Ghoma-
ro instead of 'Omaro.

THE PRESENT. 457
wa, who formed a large semicircle around him, were dressed
most gaudily. Stepping into the opening of the semicircle, I
saluted the governor, telling him that as I and my companions
had lost, on the border of A'sben, almost all the valuable prop
erty we had brought with us, and as the few things left to me
had gone on to Kano, he ought to excuse me for being unable,
at the present moment, to offer him a present worthy of his high
position ; that it was my desire to go on without delay to Kano,
in order to settle my affairs, and to proceed to Bornu, where we
expected to receive fresh supplies, after which one of our party
certainly would go to Sokoto, in order to pay our respects to
the Emir el Mumenin. The governor answered my address
with much apparent kindness, telling me that I was now in his
"imana," or under his protection, and that he had no other pur
pose but to do what would be conducive to my advantage. He
then asked the news of my companions, though he knew all
about them, and did not appear to take the least offense at Mr.
Overweg's going to Maradi, although the people and the ruler
of that place were his most inveterate enemies. But things
must not be looked upon here as they would be in Europe ; for
here people are accustomed to see strangers from the north pay
visits to aU sorts of princes, whatever may be their policy.
However, while he spoke in rather friendly terms to me, and
while my presents were received thankfully by the servants, he
declared to the people who were sitting near him that, as the
ruler of Bornu had laid hold of one of my companions, and that
of Maradi of the other, he should be a fool if he were to let me
pass out of his hands. I therefore took leave of him with no
very hght heart.
My present consisted of two fine red caps, a piece of printed
calico which I had bought in Murzuk for four Spanish dollars,
but which was of a pattern not much liked in Sudan, an English
razor and scissors, one pound of cloves, another of frankincense,
a piece of fine soap, and a packet of English needles. Though
it certainly was not a very brilliant present, yet, considering that
1 did not want any thing from him, it was quite enough ; but the
fact was that he wanted something more from me, and therefore
it was not sufficient.

458 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Early the following morning, while it was still dark, a servant
of the governor came withElaiji to my tent, requesting me to stay
voluntarily behind the caravan. Though this would have been
the best plan had I known that the governor had set his heart
upon keeping me back, yet I could not well assent to it, as I had
nothing at all with me, not even sufficient to keep me and my
people for a short time from starving. I therefore told them that
it was impossible for me to stay behind, and prepared to go on
with the caravan, which was setting out. This, however, Elaiji
would not allow me to do ; but while all the divisions of the
airi started one after another, he himself remained behind, with
several of the principal men of the caravan, till Haj Bel-Ghet
came and announced that it was necessary for me to go to the
town, there to await the decision of the governor. Seeing that
nothing was to be done but to obey, and having in vain shown
my letter of recommendation from the Sultan of A'gades, from
which, as I had feared from the beginning, nothing was inferred
but that I had been directly forwarded by him to the Governor
of Katsena in order to see me safe to Sokoto, I took leave of
Elaiji, thanking him and his friends for their trouble, and fol
lowed Bel-Ghet and his companion Musa into the town.
The immense mass of the wall, measuring in its lower part
not less than thirty feet, and its wide circumference, made a deep
impression upon me. The town (if town it may be called) pre
sented a most cheerful rural scene, with its detached light cot
tages and its stubble-fields, shaded with a variety of fine trees;
but I suspect that this ground was not entirely covered with
dwellings even during the most glorious period of Katsena. We
traveled a mile and a half before we reached the "zinsere,"a
small dwelling used by the governor as a place of audience — on
account, as it seems, of a splendid, wide-spreading fig-tree grow
ing close to it, and forming a thick, shady canopy sufficient for
a large number of people.
I, however, was conducted to the other side of the building,
where a quadrangular chamber projects from the half-decayed
wall, and had there to wait a long time, till the governor came
into town from his new country-seat. Having at last arrived,

THE GOVERNOR'S WILES. 459
he called me, and, thanking me for remaining with him, he
promised that I should be weU treated as his guest, and that
without delay a house should be placed at my disposal. He
was a man of middle age, and had much in his manners and
features which made him resemble an actor ; and such he really
is, and was still more so in his younger days.
Taking leave of him for the present, I followed Bel-Ghet to
my quarters; but we had still a good march to make, first
through detached dweUings of clay, then leaving the immense
palace of the governor on our left, and entering what may be
strictly called the town, with connected dwellings. Here I was
lodged in a small house opposite the spacious dwelling of Bel-
Ghet ; and though, on first entering, I found it almost insupport
able, I soon succeeded in making myself tolerably comfortable
in a clean room neatly arranged. It seemed to have once form
ed the snug seat for a well-furnished harim ; at least the dark
passages leading to the interior could not be penetrated by a
stranger's eye. We had scarcely taken possession of our quar
ters when the governor sent me a ram and two ox-loads of corn
—one of "dawa," and the other of "gero." But, instead of
feeling satisfied with this abundant provision, we were quite
horrified at it, as I, with my three people, might have subsisted
a whole year on the corn sent us, and we began to have uneasy
forebodings of a long detention. Indeed, we suspected, and
were confirmed in our suspicion by the statements of several
people, that it was the governor's real intention to forward me
directly to Sokoto, a circumstance which alienated from me my
servants, even the faithful Mohammed el Gatrono, who was
. much afraid of going there.
However, my new protector, Bel-Ghet, did not leave me much
time for reflection, but soon came back to take me again to the
governor. Having sat a while in the cool shade of the tree, we
were called into his audience-room, which was nothing more than
the round hut or derne (" zaure" in Kanuri) which generally forms
the entrance and passage-room in every Pullo establishment.
Besides myself, the haj Bel-Ghet, and his constant companion
Musa, there was also the wealthy merchant Haj Wali, whom I

460 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
had seen in Tasawa, when he tried to persuade me to follow the
men sent to take me to Zinder, while he now sought to repre
sent the governor of Katsena as the greatest man in all Negro
land, and the best friend I could have. The governor soon be
gan to display his talent as an actor, and had the unfortunate
letter from the Sultan of A'gades read, interpreted, and com
mented upon. According to the sagacious interpretation of
these men, the purport of the letter was to recommend me ex
pressly to this governor as a fit person to be detained in his
company. All my representations to the effect that my friend
'Abd el Kader had recommended me in exactly the same terms
to the governors of Daura and Kano, and that I had forwarded
a letter from A'gades to the Emir el Mumenin in Sokoto, in
forming him that, as soon as we had received new supplies from
the coast, one of us at least would certainly pay him a visit,
which, under present circumstances, robbed and destitute as we
were, we could not well do, were all in vain ; he had an answer
for every objection, and was impudent enough to tell me that a
message had been received from Maradi, soliciting me to go
thither ; that as Bornu had laid hold of one of my companions,
and Maradi of the other, so he would lay hold of me, but of
course only to become my benefactor (" se al khere"). Seeing
that reply was useless, and that it was much better to let this
lively humorist go through his performance, and to wait pa
tiently for the end of the comedy, I took leave of him and re
turned to my quarters.
Late in the evening the governor sent for Mohammed', who
could scarcely be expected, with his fiery and inconsiderate be
havior, to improve the state of things ; and as the governor's
dwelling was a good way off, and the town iU frequented, I was
obliged to allow him to go armed with a pair of pistols, which
soon attracted the attention of our host, who complained bitter
ly that while all the petty chiefs had received from us such
splendid presents, he, the greatest man in Negroland, had got
nothing. Mohammed having told him that the pistols belong
ed to me, he wanted me to present them to him ; but this I ob
stinately refused, as I was convinced that the whole success of
further proceedings depended on our fire-arms.

DISPUTES. 461
I was rather glad when El Wakhshi called upon me the fol
lowing morning, as I trusted he might help me out of the scrape.
After conversing with him about my situation, I went out with
him to stroU about the town. We had gone, however, but a
little way when Bel-Ghet saw us, and reprimanded me severely
for going out without asking his permission. Growing rather
warm at such humUiating treatment, I told him in very plain
terms that, as long as the governor refrained from posting sol
diers before my door, I would regard myself as a free man, and
at liberty to go where I chose. Seeing that he could not wreak
his anger directly upon me, he tried to do it indirectly by rep
rimanding my companion for going about with this " kafer,"
and confirming the " kafer" in his refractoriness against the will
of the sultan. Not feeling much honored with the title thus
bestowed on me, I told him that as yet nobody in the whole
town had insulted me with that epithet, but that he alone had
the insolence to apply it. When the miserable fellow saw me
irritated, he did not hesitate to declare that, though well versed
in the Kuran, he had been entirely unaware' of the meaning of
" kafer," and begged me to give him full information about the
relations of the English to the various Mohammedan states.
When I came to speak about Morocco, he interrupted me, as,
being a native of Gurara, he might be presumed to know the
relations of those countries better than I did ; and he insisted
that the English were not on good terms with the Emperor of
Morocco, and were not aUowed to visit Fas (Fez). I then de
clared to him that there could scarcely be a more unmistakable
proof of the friendly relations existing between the English and
Mul'a Abd e' Eahman than the present of four magnificent
horses which the latter had lately sent to the Queen of En
gland. He then confessed that he was more of an antiquarian,
and ignorant of the present state of matters, but he was quite
sure that during the time of Mul'a Ism'ail it certainly was as
he had stated. To this I replied that, while all the Moham
medan states, including Morocco, had since that time declined
in power, the Christians, and the English in particular, had
made immense steps in advance. We then shook hands, and
I left the poor Moslim to his own reflections.

462 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
Proceeding with El Wakhshi on our intended promenade,
and laughing at the scrape into which he had almost got by
changing (in the dispute with Bel-Ghet) the honorary title of
the latter, " Sultan ben e' Sultan" (Sultan son of Sultan), into
that of " Shitan ben e' Shitan" (Satan son of Satan), we went
to the house of a Ghadamsi, where we found several Arab and
native merchants collected together, and among them a Gha
damsi who bore the same name as that which, for more friendly
intercourse with the natives, I had adopted on these journeys,
namely, that of 'Abd el Kerim. This man had accompanied
'Abd Allah (Clapperton) on his second journey from Kano to
Sokoto, and was well acquainted with all the circumstances at
tending his death. He was greatly surprised to hear that "Ei-
shar" (Eichard Lander), whom he had believed to be a younger
brother of Clapperton, had not only successfully reached the
coast, after his circuitous journey to Danroro, and after having
been dragged back by force from his enterprising march upon
Fanda, but had twice returned from England to those quarters
before he fell a victim to his arduous exertions.
I then returned with my old Ghadamsi friend to my lodg
ings, when Bel-Ghet came soon after us, and once more begged
my pardon for having called me "kafer."
Afterward El Wakhshi brought me a loaf of sugar, that I
might make a present of it to Bel-Ghet. On this occasion he
cast his eyes on a small telescope wliich I had bought in Paris
for six francs, and begged me to give it to him for the loaf of
sugar which he had just lent me. I complied with his wish.
Taking the loaf of sugar with me, and the two other letters of
the Sultan of A'gades, as well that addressed to the Governor
of Daura, as that to the. Governor of Kano, I went to Bel-Gh6t,
and, presenting him with the sugar as a small token of my ac
knowledgment for the trouble he was taking in my behalf, I
showed him the letters as a proof that the Sultan of A'gades
never intended to forward me to his friend the Governor of Kat
sena as a sort of " abenchi," or a tit-bit for himself, but that he
acknowledged entirely my liberty of action, and really wished
to obtain protection for me wherever I might choose to go. Bel-

BEL-GHE'T CONCILIATED. 463
Ghet, being touched by the compliments I paid him, affected to
understand now for the first time the real circumstances of my
case, and promised to lend me his assistance if I would bind
myself to return to Katsena from Bornu, after having received
sufficient supplies from the coast. This I did to a certain de
gree, under the condition that circumstances should not prove
unfavorable to such a proceeding; indeed, I doubted at that
time very much whether I should be able to return this way
again. But when I did revisit Katsena in the beginning of
1853, with a considerable supply of presents, and met before
the gates of the town this same man, who had been sent to com
pliment me on the part of the same governor, "it was a triumph
which I could scarcely have expected. The old man was on
the latter occasion almost beside himself with joy, and fell upon
my neck exclaiming, over and over again, "'Abd el Kerim!
Abd el Kerim !" while I told him, " Here I am, although both
my companions have died ; I am come to fulfiU my promise. I
am on my way to Sokoto, with valuable presents for the Emir
el Mumenin."
Leaving Bel-Ghet in better humor, I went with El Wakhshi .
to his house, where he treated me and two A'sbenawa with a
dish of roasted fowl arid dates, after which I proceeded with him
through the decayed and deserted quarter where the rich Gha-
damsiye merchants once lived, and through some other streets,
in a rather better state, to the market-place, which forms a large
regular quadrangle, with several rows of sheds, or runfa, of the
same style as those in Tasawa, but much better and more regu
larly built. Of course, there was here a better supply of native
cotton cloth, and of small Nuremberg wares, in the market than
in the former place ; but otherwise there was nothing particu
lar, and altogether it was dull, showing the state of decay into
which this once splendid and busy emporium of Negroland has
faUen. The most interesting things I observed in the market were
limes, of tolerably large size, and extremely cheap, and the beau
tiful large fruit of the gonda ( Carica Papaya), which had just
begun to ripen ; however, the latter was rather dear, consider-

to

464 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ing the low price of provisions in general, a fine papaw being
sold for from twenty-five to thirty kurdi, a sum which may keep'
a poor man from starvation for five days. In Kano I afterward
saw this fruit cut into thin slices, which were sold for one " uri"
(shell) each. Having sat for a long time with El Wakhshi in
a runfa without being exposed to any insult whatever, though
I was necessarily an object of curiosity, I returned home and
passed the evening quietly with my people, Gajere giving me
reason all the time for the utmost satisfaction with his faithful
and steadfast behavior. Besides being sincerely attached to
me, he was persuaded that he possessed influence enough to get
me out of my scrape ; and thus he informed me, as a great se
cret, that he had forwarded a message to A'nnur, giving him
full information of my case, and that, in consequence, I might
give myself no further trouble, but rely entirely upon that chiefs
assistance. While he was thus cheering my spirits in the even
ing, as we lay round the fire in our court-yard, he frequently re
peated the words, " Kaso mutum dondadi uyataso, kadda ka-
kishi da kummia," contrasting his own faithfulness with the
faithless, frivolous behavior of Mohammed el Tunsi, whom he
called " mogo mutum" (a bad sort of fellow). But Gajere also
had his own reasons for not being so very angry at our delay,
as the lean mare which I had hired of him had a sore back, and
was in a rather weak state, so that a little rest and a fuU meas
ure of corn every day was not so much amiss for her.
El Wakhshi returned the same evening, giving me hope that
I might get off the next day. However, this proved to be empty
talk, for the following day my business with the pompous BeUo
made no progress, he demanding nothing less from me than one
hundred thousand kurdi or cowries — a sum certainly small, ac
cording to European modes of thinking, barely exceeding £8,
but which I was quite unable to raise at the time. BeUo was
mean enough to found his claims upon his noble but quite un
called-for hospitality, having given me, as he said, two rams,
two vessels of honey, and two loads of corn, altogether worth
from eleven to twelve thousand cowries ; and I now felt justi
fied in changing his noble title " Sultan ben Sultan" into that of

THEOLOGICAL DISCUSSION. 465
" dellal ben deUa.1" (broker, son of a broker). Even my old friend
El Wakhshi took occasion of this new difficulty of mine to give
vent to his feelings as a merchant, saying that this was the
"d'awa" (the curse) attending our (the English) proceedings
against the slave-trade. And it must be confessed that the
merchants of Ghadames have suffered a great deal from the ab
olition of the slave-trade in Tunis,* without being compensated
for this loss by the extension or increased security of legitimate
commerce. Seeing that the slave-trade is still carried on in
Nupe or Nyffi, where they are persuaded the English could pre
vent it if they would, and that it is there carried on, not by Mo
hammedans, but by Christians, they have plausible grounds for
being angry with the English nation.
I had a highly interesting discussion with my old fanatical
friend Bel-Ghe't. It seems that after I had protested against
his calling me " kafer" the other day, he had held a consulta
tion on the subject with some people of his own faith, and his
zeal being thus revived, he returned to-day to urge the point.
He began with questioning me about the different nations that
professed Christianity, and which among them were the " ko-
far ;" for some of them, he was quite sure, were and deserved
to be so called. I replied that the application of the word de
pended on the meaning attached to it, and that if he unVlerstood
by the word kafer any body who doubted of the mission of Mo
hammed, of course a great many Christians were kofar ; but if,
with more reason, he called by this name only those who had
no idea of the unity of God, and venerated other objects besides
the Almighty God, that it could then be applied only to a few
Christians, particularly to those of the Greek and to the less
enlightened of the Catholic Church, though even these vene
rated the crucifix and the images rather as symbols than as
idols. But I confessed to him that, with regard to the unity
of the Divine Being, Islam certainly was somewhat purer than
the creeds of most of the Christian sects ; and I acknowledged
that, just at the time when Mohammed appeared, Christianity
* The recent abolition of the slave-trade in Tripoli and Fezzan will certainly
not soothe their wrath.
Vol. I.— G g

466 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
had sunk considerably below the level of its pristine purity.
The old man went away pleased with what I had told him, and
swore that he would not again call the English kofar, but that,
with my permission, he would still apply that name to the
"Mosko" (the Eussians).
In the afternoon, his son, a man of about five-and-thirty,
came to visit me, accompanied by a sherif from Yeman, who had
been to Bombay, and was well acquainted with the English;
he was now on his way to Timbuktu, in order to vindicate his
right of inheritance to the property of a wealthy merchant who
had died there. In this, however, he was unsuccessful; and
when I reached Timbuktu in September, 1853, he had left it
some time previously with broken' spirits and in great distress.
He perished on his way home. He was an amiable and intel
ligent man, arid visited me several times. From him and his
companion I received intimation of a large " Christian book,"
bound in leather, with edges and lock made of metal, in the pos
session of a Ptillo or Ba-Fellanchi in the town; but no one
could tell me whether it was in manuscript or print; and al
though I offered to pay for a sight of it, I never succeeded in
my object. It might be one of those heavy books which Clap
perton, when dying, told Lander rather to leave behind than
take witli him to England.
Tuesday, January 28th. I at length succeeded in arranging
matters with the governor. Early in the morning I sent Mo
hammed to El Wakhshi in order to try and settle the business,
telling him that I was ready to make any possible sacrifice;
and he sent me a bernus for fifty-two thousand kurdi. While
I was hesitating about contracting a new debt of such magni
tude (in my poor circumstances), Bel-Ghet, who evidently feared
that if I gave one large present to the governor he himself would
get nothing, intimated to me that it would be better to choose
several small articles. El Wakhshi therefore procured a caftan
of very common velvet, a carpet, a sedriye or close waistcoat,
and a shawl, which all together did not exceed the price of
thirty-one thousand kurdi, so that I saved more than twenty
thousand. In order, however, to give the whole a more unpre-

THE PRESENTS. 467
meditated, honorary, and professional appearance, I added to it
a pencil, a little frankincense, and two strong doses of Epsom
salts. While Bel-Ghet was engaged in negotiating peace for me
with the eccentric governor, I went with El Wakhshi and Ga
jere to the market, and thence proceeded with the latter, who,
stout and portly, strode before me with his heavy spear like a
stately body-guard or " kavas," to the house of Manzo, an agent
of Masawaji, who always lives here, and paid him our compli
ments. Passing then by the house of the Sultan of A'gades
(" gida-n-serki-n- A'gades"), who occasionally resides here, we
went to the "kofan Guga" (the northwestern gate of the town),
which my companion represented to me as belonging entirely to
the A'sbenawa ; for as long as Katsena formed the great empo
rium of this part of Africa, the Airi used to encamp in the plain
outside this gate. The wall is here very strong and high, at
least from without, where the height is certainly not less than
from five-and-thirty to forty feet, while in the interior the rub
bish and earth has accumulated against it to such a degree that
a man may very easUy look over it ; the consequence is that
during the rains a strong torrent formed here rushes out of the
gate. On the outside there is also a deep, broad ditch. We
returned to our lodging by the way of the " marina" and the
market, both of which places were already sunk in the repose
arid silence of night.
I had scarcely re-entered my dark quarters when Bel-Ghet
arrived, telling me that the governor did not want my property
at aU ; however, to do honor to my present, he would condescend
to keep the kaftan and the carpet, but he sent me back the se-
driye and the shawl — of course, to be given as a present to his
agent and commissioner, my noble friend from Gurara. The
governor, however, was anxious to obtain some more medicines
from me. He, at the same time, promised to make me a present
of a horse. Although I had but a small store of medicines
with me, I chose a few powders of quinine, of tartar-emetic, and
of acetate of lead, and gave him a small bottle with a few drops
of laudanum, while it was arranged that the following morning

468 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
I should explain to the governor himself the proper use of these
medicines. The next morning, therefore, I proceeded with Bel-Ghet, to
whose swollen eye I had successfully applied a lotion, and whose
greediness I had satisfied with another small present, on the way
to the "zinsere." He wished to show me the interior of the
immense palace or the "fada;" but he could not obtain access
to it, and I did not see it till on my second visit to Katsena.
Bello received me in his private apartment, and detained me
for full two hours, while I gave him complete information about
the use of the medicines. He wanted, besides, two things from
me, which I could not favor him with — things of very different
character, and the most desired by aU the princes of Negroland.
One of these was a " magani-n-alguwa" (a medicine to increase
his conjugal vigor) ; the other, some rockets, as a " magani-n-
yaki" (a medicine of war), in order to frighten his enemies.
Not being able to comply with these two modest wishes of
his, I had great difficulty in convincing him of my good will ;
and he remained incredulous to my protestations that we had
intentionally not taken such things as rockets with us, as we
were afraid that, if we gave such a thing to one prince, his neigh
bor might become fiercely hostUe to us. But he remarked that
he would keep such a gift a secret. I was very glad he did not
say a word more about the pistols ; but, in order to give me a
proof that he knew how to value fine things, he showed me the
scissors and razor which I had given him the other day, for
which he had got a sheath made, and wore them constantly at
his left side. He then told me he would make me a present of
an " abi-n-hawa" (something to mount upon), intimating already
by this expression that it would not be a first-rate horse, as I
had not complied with his heart's desire, but that it would be
furnished with saddle and harness, and that, besides, he would
send me a large " hakkori-n-giwa" (an elephant's tooth) to Kano.
This latter offer I declined, saying that, though my means were
very small at present, I did not like to turn merchant. He re
minded me then of- my promise to return, and we parted the best
of friends. Notwithstanding the injustice of every kind which

RETURN HOME. 469
he daily commits, he has some sentiment of honor ; and feeling
rather ashamed for having given me so much trouble for noth
ing, as he was aware that it would become known to his fellow-
governors, and probably even to his liege lord, the Emir el Mu
menin, he was anxious to vindicate his reputation. It was from
the same motive that he begged me most urgently not to teU
any body that I had made him the presents here, adding that he
would afterward say that he had received them from me from
Kano. Having returned home, I thankfully received the compliments
which were made me from different quarters on account of the
fortunate issue of my affair with this " munafeki," or evU-doer ;
and although the horse, which was not brought till next morn
ing, after we had been waiting for it a long while, proved rather
ill-looking and poor, being scarcely worth more than ten thou
sand kurdi, or four dollars, and though the saddle was broken
and harness wanting altogether, I was quite content, and exulted
in my good fortune. But, before leaving this once most import
ant place, I shall try to give a short historical sketch of its past,
and an outline of its present state. I only hope that the descrip
tion of my personal relations in this town may not be thought
too diffuse ; but, while it affords a glance into the actual state
of things, it may also serve to instruct those who may hereafter
travel in these regions.

470 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

CHAPTEE XXIY.
HAUSA.  HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF KATSENA. — ENTRY
INTO KANO.
In order to render intelligible the anterior history of Katse
na, it wiU be necessary to enter into some preliminary explana
tion respecting the whole country of Hausa. The name Hausa
was unknown, as it seems, to Leo Africanus ; else, instead of
saying that the inhabitants of Zaria, Katsena, and Kano spoke
the language of Gober,* he would have said they spoke the
Hausa language. But we have no right to conclude from this
circumstance that the practice of giving the name Hausa, not
only to the widely diffused language, but also to the countries
coUectively in which it prevails, is later than Leo's time ; on
the contrary, I must acknowledge the improbability of such an
assumption. It is true that, with the faint light available, we
are unable to discern quite distinctly how the Hausa nation
originated ; but we may positively assert that it was not an in
digenous nation, or, at least, that it did not occupy its present
seat from very ancient times, but that it settled in the country
at a comparatively recent date. As to one of the associated
states, and the most prominent and noble among them (I mean
Gober), we know positively that in ancient times it occupied
tracts situated much farther north ;f and I have been assured
that the name Hausa also proceeded from the same quarter
— an opinion which seems to be confirmed by the affinity of
that language with the Temashight.f Whether the name was
* Leo, 1. i., s. 12. When he says that the inhabitants of Wangara (Guanga-
ra) likewise spoke Hausa, he falls into the same sort of error as when he says
that the people of Melle spoke the Songhay language.
t See above, chap. xv.
X There is evidently some relation between the Hausa, the Berber, and the
Coptic languages, not in the general vocabularies, but chiefly in the demonstra
tives, such as " me," " hakka," and the prepositions, such as " na," " da," "ga,"

ORIGIN OF HAUSA. 47 1
originally identical with the word " A'usa," which, as we shall
see, is used by the Western Tawarek and the people of Timbuk
tu to denote the country on this the northern side of the Great
River, in opposition to "Gurma,"the country on its southern
side, I am unable to say.
Sultan Bello's statement, that the Hausa people originated
from a Bornu slave, deserves very little credit. It is to be con
sidered as merely expressive of his contempt for the effeminate
manners of the Hausa people in his time. But their language,
though it has a few words in common with the Kanuri, is evi
dently quite distinct from it, as well in its vocabulary as in its
grammar. What BeUo says may be correct in a certain sense
with regard to the population of Kano, which, indeed, seems to
consist, for the greater part, of Bornu elements, though in course
of time the people have adopted the Hausa language ; and this
may be the case, also, with other provinces, the original popu
lation having been more nearly related to the Manga-Bornu
stock. The name " Bawu," which occurs in the mythical gene
alogy of the Hausa people as that of the ancestor of most of
the Hausa states, can hardly be supposed to be a mere person
ification representing the state of slavery in which the nation
formerly existed ; the name for slave in the Hausa language is
bawa, not bawu. It is, however, remarkable that this person
age is said to be the son of Karbagari, whose name evidently
implies "the taking of a town," and might be derived from the
capture of the town of Biram, which is universally represented
as the oldest seat of the Hausa people, a tradition which is at
tested by a peculiar usage even at the present day. This town
of Biram is situated between Kano and Khadeja, and is often
called "Biram-ta-ghabbes," in order to distinguish it from a
more westerly town of the same name. Biram, the personifica
tion of this town, is said to have been, by his grandson, Bawu
(the son of Karbagari), the progenitor of six other Hausa states
"daga," "gare." See the excellent analysis of the Berber language by New
man, in Zeitschrift fir Kunde des Morgenlandes, vol. vii., a. 1845, p. 268, 277, 278 ;
(on the feminine forms " ita," "ta"), p. 282, 291, 296. Many more specimens,
however, may now be added.

472

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

(likewise personified), viz., Katsena and Zegzeg, who are rep
resented as twins ; Kano and Eano, another pair of twins ; Go
ber and Daura. However, it seems almost universally ac
knowledged that, of all these children, Daura was the eldest.*
More important in a historical point of view, and confirming
what has been said above, appears to be the statement that the
mother of these children belonged to the Deggara or Diggera, a
Berber tribe at present established to the north of Muniyo, and
once very powerful. Biram, Daura, Gober, Kano, Eano, Kat
sena, and Zegzeg, are the weU known original seven Hausa
states, the " Hausa bokoy" (the seven Hausa), wlrile seven oth
er provinces or countries, in which the Hausa language has
spread to a great extent, although it is riot the language of the
aboriginal inhabitants, are called jocosely " banza bokoy" (the
upstart or illegitimate) ; these are Zanfara, Kebbi, Niipe or
Nyffi, Gwari, Yauri, Yoruba or Yariba, and Kororofa.
As for the six children of Bawu, they are said to have had
each his share assigned to him by his father in the following
way : Gober was appointed the " serki-n-yaki" (the war-chief),
in order to defend his brethren, Kano and Eano being made
" saraki-n-baba" (the ministers of the " marina," that peculiar
emblem of the industry of Hausa), and Katsena and Daura
" saraki-n-kaswa" (the ministers of intercourse and commerce),
while Zegzeg is said to have been obliged to provide his breth
ren with those necessary instruments of social life in these re
gions, namely, slaves, becoming the " serki-n-bay." Eano,
which at present has been greatly reduced, though it is stiU a
considerable place, situated southwest from Kano, was originally,
like each of the other towns, the capital of an independent ter
ritory, though not mentioned hitherto by any traveler who has
spoken of Hausa.
* It is also a very remarkable fact that Daura claims the glory of having had
an apostle of its own, Mohammed 'Ali el Baghdadi ; and with this fact the circum
stance that the holy place which I noticed on my tour from Tin-tellust to A'gades
is called by some " msid Sidi Baghdadi," may probably be connected. Whether
Daura be identical with El Bekri's Daur or Daw is a question of some import
ance, since, if it really be so, it would appear to have been a considerable place at
a very early period ; but I prefer not to enter here upon the slippety ground of
comparative geography.

KINGS OF KA'TSENA. 473
If we credit Leo's description, we must conclude that when
he visited these regions, toward the end of the fifteenth century
of our era, there was no capital in the province of Katsena, the
whole country being inhabited in " piccoli casali fatti a guisa di
capanne." For, with respect to later events, which happened
after he had left the country, and while he was writing his de
scription, very imperfect information appears to have reached
him. Now the list of the kings of Katsena, from a remote
period, is still tolerably well preserved, together with the length
of their respective reigns ; and there is no reason whatever to
doubt their general accuracy, as the history of the state has been
in writing at least since the middle of the sixteenth century of
our era, and we have something to control this list, and to con
nect it with facts gleaned from other quarters. This regards
the period of the reign of the king Ibrahim Maji, who, as we
know, lived in the time of the famous Tawati Mohammed ben
Abd el Kerim ben Maghili, the friend and contemporary, as I
have said before,* of the great encyclopedist Abu '1 Fadhl Jelal
e' din Abd e' Eahman el Khodairi e' Soyuti, commonly known
under the name of E' Sheikh e' Soyuti ; and his connection with
the King of Katsena we are able to fix with tolerable certainty by
his relation to the Songhay king Is-hak, who is said to have ex
cited his severest indignation by refusing to punish the people
who had murdered his son in Gogo.f And although we can
* Vol. i., p. 386.
t In Timbuktu I was enabled to peruse a long letter from Maghili to Is-hak
about points of religion. This is the only work of Maghili which I was able to
discover in Negroland. There were two Songhay kings of the name of Is-hak —
the first, who ruled from A.H. 946-956, and the second, who was the last king
of the dynasty, when Gogho or Gogo was conquered by the Basha Jodar the 17th
Jumad e' thani, 999 ; but there is no doubt that the first is meant. What I have
said about the grandson of Maghili's dispute with Is-hak is the common tradition
m Negroland, and, I think, deserves more confidence than what M. Cherbonneau
has made out in Constantine. See Journal Asiatique, 1855. He says, " Apres
cet horrible massacre, El M'rili quitta Touat pour s'enfoncer dans le cceur du
Soudan. H parcourut successivement Tekra (? Tirka), Kachene et Kanou. Dans
les deux premieres villes il enseigna publiquement la science du Koran ; dans
1 autre il fit un cours de jurisprudence. De la il passa a Karou (ou Tchiarou, sui-
vant la prononciation locale), et fut invite par el Hadj Mohammed, qui en etait
Ie gouverneur, a rediger une note sur differentes questions de droit. H etait de-

474 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
scarcely believe that the ruin of the Songhay empire, and the
rise of that of Katsena, was the consequence of this holy man's
curse, nevertheless we are justified in presuming that, after he
had received offense from the king Is-hak by being refused sat
isfaction, he began to cultivate friendly relations with the King
of Katsena, a country then rising into importance.
We are therefore justified in placing Ibrahim Maji (the King
of Katsena, whom the fanatic Moslim converted to Islam) about
the middle of the tenth century of the Hejra. Now, if we count
backward from this period, adding together the years attributed
to each reign, to Komayo, the man who is universally stated to
have founded Katsena, we obtain at least three hundred and
fifty years, which would carry back the political existence of the
state of Katsena to the beginning of the seventh century of the
Hejra. In this computation we reduce the reign of the first two
kings, or chiefs (of whom Komayo is said to have reigned a
hundred years, and his. successor ninety), to about twenty years
each. Excepting this little exaggeration, which is such as we
find recurring in the early history of almost every nation, I do
not see any reason for rejecting the list of the kings of this coun
try, as it is preserved not only in the memory of the people, but
even in written documents, though, indeed, it is to be lamented
that the books containing a comprehensive history of this nation
have been destroyed intentionally by the Fulbe, or FeUani, since
the conquest of the country, in order to annihilate, as far as pos
sible, the national records.
The dynasty founded by Komayo comprised four kings in
succession, besides its founder, namely, Eamba, Teryau, Jerin-
nata, and Sanawu. Sanawu, after a reign of thirty years, is
said to have been killed by Korawu, who came from a place
named Yendutu, and founded a new dynasty (if we count back
ward from the time of Ibrahim Maji) about the year 722 of the
Hejra; but, of course, I do not pretend to any exactness in these
dates. Whether Ibrahim Maji belonged to the same dynasty
puis peu dans cette ville, lorsqu'on vint lui apprendre que son fils avait ete assas-
sine par les juifs de Touat. II repartit et mourut presque au moment de son ar-
rivee."

EARLIEST DYNASTY. 475
which Korawu had founded, I am not able to say. About thirty
years before the time of Ibrahim Maji, in the year 919 A.H.,
or 1513 A.D., occurred that eventful expedition of the great
Songhay king Haj Mohammed A'skia which threw all these
countries into the greatest confusion. According to Leo, at that
time Katsena acknowledged the supremacy of Kano, having
been subjected for only a short time to the sway of the King of
Songhay, and afterward most probably to that of the energetic
and successful king of Kebbi, who repulsed the great A'skia.
Katsena must have fallen very soon under the supremacy of the
empire of Bornu. About fifty years after the beginning of the
reign of the first Moslim king, a new dynasty commenced, that
of the Habe,* which, as it is unanimously stated to have ruled
for a hundred and sixty-nine years, and as it was driven out by
the Fulbe in the year of the Hejra 1222, must have commenced
about the year 1053 (A.D. 1643). In this latter dynasty, how
ever, there seem to have been two factions (or families), which
are noticed already in the preceding dynasty, one of which was
called Chagarana, and the otiier Karyaghiwa.f But, before
speaking of the struggle between the Fulbe and the Habe, I shall
speak a few words about the town of Katsena.
The town probably did not receive the name of the province
till it had become large and predominant, which event, if Leo
be correct, we must conclude did not happen much before the
middle of the 16th century of our era, whUe in early times some
separate villages probably occupied the site where, at a later
period, the immense town spread out. The oldest of these vil
lages is said to have been Ambutey or Mbutey, where we must
presume Komayo and his successors to have resided. After
Gogo had been conquered by Mulay Hamed, the Emperor of
Morocco, and, from a large and industrious capital, had become
a provincial town, great part of the commerce which formerly
¦" "Habe," plural of the singular "Kado," is a general term now applied by
the Fulbe to the conquered race ; but in this instance the application is different.
It is not improbable that the conquerors extended the meaning of this term, which
originally applied only to one dynasty, to the whole conquered nation.
t This name, in the corrupted form " Kilinghiwa," Mr. Cooley has connected
tfith the Berbers, in his excellent little work on the Negroland of the Arabs.

476 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
centred there must have been transferred to Katsena, although
this latter place seems never to have had any considerable trade
in gold, which formed the staple of the market of Gogo. Thus
the town went on increasing to that enormous size, the vestiges
of which still exist at the present time, although the quarter
actually inhabited comprises but a small part of its extent.*
The town, if only half of its immense area were ever tolera
bly well inhabited, must certainly have had a population of at
least a hundred thousand souls, for its circuit is between. thir
teen and fourteen English miles. At present, when the. inhab
ited quarter is reduced to the northwestern part, and when even
this is mostly deserted, there are scarcely seven or eight thou
sand people living in it. In former times it was the residence
of a prince, who, though he seems never to have attained to any
remarkable degree of power, and was, indeed, almost always in
some degree dependent on, or a vassal of the King of Bornu,
nevertheless was one of the most wealthy and conspicuous
rulers of Negroland. f Every prince, at his accession to the
throne, had to forward a sort of tribute or present to Birni
Ghasreggomo, the capital of the Bornu empire, consisting of
one hundred slaves, as a token of his obedience ; but this being
done, it does not appear that his sovereign rights were in any
way interfered with. In fact, Katsena, during the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries of our era, seems to have been the
chief city of this part of Negroland, as weU in commercial and
political importance as in other respects ; for here that state of
civilization which had been called forth by contact with the
Arabs seems to have reached its highest degree, and as the
Hausa language here attained the greatest richness of form and
* For the names of the quarters of the town, which are not destitute of inter
est, see Appendix VII.
t It was most probably a king of Katsena, whom Makrizi entitled King of
A'funu (Hamaker, Spec. Cat., p. 206), remarking the great jealousy with which
he watched his wives, although the name Mastud which he gives to him does
not occur in the lists of the kings of Katsena which have come to my knowledge,
and does not even seem to be a true native name. The power of the Prince of
Katsena toward the end of the last century (Lucas, Horneman) seems to have
been rather transient, being based on the then weakness of Bornu.

MAGNITUDE OF THE TOWN.

477

the most refined pronunciation, so also the manners of Katsena
were distinguished by superior politeness from those of the oth
er towns of Hausa.

Corn

of Geo grapKieol Miles

10.

House where I was lodged during my first stay in Katsena in 1851.
House belonging to the quarter Doka, where I was lodged in 1853.

The Zensere
Palace of the governor.
Market-place.Old mosque.
Kofa-n-Giiga. Kofa-n-Yendukki.Kofa-n-Koya.
Kofa-n-Gaziibi.

11. Kofa-n-Kaura.
12. Kofa-n-Marusa.
13. Kofa-n-Durdu.
14. Kofa-n-Samri.
15. A brook formed by a spring.
16. Former place of encampment of salt-
caravan.

But this state of things was wholly changed when, in the
very beginning of the present century, in the year 1222 of the
Hejra, or 1807 of our era, the Fulbe, called Fellani by the
Hausa, and FeUata by the Bornu people, raised to the highest
pitch of fanaticism by the preaching of the Eeformer or Jihadi
.'Othman dan Fodiye, and formed into the religious and political

478 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
association of the Jemma'a, or, as they pronounce it, Jemmara,
succeeded in possessing themselves of this town. However,
while Kano fell ingloriously, and almost without resistance, into
the hands of SHman (the Hausa king El Wali having escaped
to Zaria), the straggle for Katsena was protracted and sangui
nary. Indeed, M'allem Ghomaro had carried on unrelenting war
against the town for seven years before he at length reduced it
by famine ; and the distress in the town is said to have been so
great that a dead "angulu" or vulture (impure food which no
body would touch in time of peace) sold for five hundred kurdi,
and a kadangere or lizard for fifty. But the struggle did not
cease here ; for the " Habe" succeeded once more in expelling
the conquerors from the town, without, however, being able to
maintain their position, when M'allem Ghomaro returned with
a fresh army. Five princes of Katsena, one after the other, fell
in this struggle for religious and national independence; and
the Pullo general was not quite secure of his conquest till after
the total destruction of the town of Dankama, when Magajin
Haddedu was slain only four months after his predecessor Ma-
hamudu had succumbed in Sabongari. Even then the new
Hausa prince Benoni, who stiU bore the title of " serki-n-Kat-
sena," did not lay down his arms, but maintained the contest
till he likewise was conquered and slain in Tuntuma.
From this time the town declined rapidly," and all the princi
pal foreign merchants migrated to Kano, where they were be
yond the reach of this constant struggle ; and even the Asbe-
nawa transferred their salt-market to the latter place, which now
became the emporium of this part of Negroland, while Katsena
retained but secondary importance as the seat of a governor.
This is indeed to be lamented, as the situation of the town is
excellent, and, both on account of its position to the various
routes and of its greater salubrity, is far preferable to Kano.
However, as matters stand, unless either the Fulbe succeed m
crushing entirely the independent provinces to the north and
northwest (which, in the present weak state of the empire of
Sokoto, is far from probable), or till the Goberawa and Mana-
dawa, whose king still bears the title of serki-n-Katsena, recon-

KATSENA. 479
quer this town, it will continue to decline and become more des
olate every year. In fact, Mohammed Bello, the present gov
ernor, had conceived the design of giving up this immense town
altogether, and of founding a new residence of smaller compass
in its neighborhood ; but his liege-lord, Aliyu, the Emir el Mu
menin, would not allow him to do so.
I shall say nothing here about the empire of the Fulbe, or
about their character, of which I received a very bad impression
during my first dealings with them, but shall treat of both these
subjects hereafter. The only inhabited part of the town at
present is the northwest quarter, although any one who should
omit to take into account the population scattered over the other
parts, principally round about the residence of the governor, and
the people settled in the hamlets near the gates, would make a
great mistake. Here it may be added that most of the import
ance which Katsena has stiU preserved, in a commercial aspect,
is due to its position with respect to Nupe, with which it keeps
up a tolerably lively intercourse, the route from it to that indus
trious but most unfortunate country being practicable even for
camels, whUe the road from Kano can only be traveled with
horses and asses. Almost aU the more considerable native mer
chants in Katsena are Wangarawa (Eastern Mandingoes).
The province of Katsena was formerly far more extensive than
it is at present ; but it has been curtailed, in order not to leave
its governor too much inducement to make himself independent.
Besides, many parts of it, being much exposed to the continual
incursions of the independent Hausawa, have greatly suffered,
so that probably the population of the whole province does not
now exceed three hundred thousand souls,* of whom only about
one half seem to pay tribute. Every head of a family has to pay
here two thousand five hundred kurdi-n-kassa, or ground-rent,
and the whole of the kurdi-n-kassa of the province is estimated
by those best acquainted with the affairs of the country at from
twenty to thirty millions ; a tax of five hundred kurdi is levied
* Among the places of which a list is subjoined, certainly not less than fifty
bave about 4000 inhabitants, while about 100,000 people are distributed among
the rest and those smaller hamlets which have not been named.

480 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
also on every slave. The military force of the province consists
of two thousand horsemen, and about eight thousand men on
foot, most of them archers.* Altogether the province of Katsena
is one of the finest parts of Negroland, and, being situated just at
the water-parting between the basin of the Tsad and that of the
Kwara, at a general elevation of from 1200 to 1500 feet, it en
joys the advantage of being at once well watered and well drain
ed, the chains of hills which diversify its surface sending down
numerous rapid streams, so that it is less insalubrious than oth
er regions of this continent. Its productions are varied and rich,
though its elevated situation seems unfavorable to the growth
of cotton. But, on the other side, useful trees seem to be more
numerous in this district than in any other under the same lati
tude ; and the ayaba or banana, and the gonda or papaya, are
found in many favored spots, whUe the dorowa or Parkia, the
tsamia or tamarind, and the kadefia, or the Shea butter-tree
{Bassia Parkii), are the most common trees every where, and
very often form thick clusters. As I shall have to describe the
western districts in the narrative of my journey to Sokoto, in
1853, 1 now proceed with my route to Kano.
Thursday, January 30th. I was extremely glad when, after
a long delay — for we had been obliged to wait more than an hour
for the poor nag presented to me by the governor — we reached
the southeastern gate of the town, the " kofa-n-Kaura." It was
as if I had just escaped from a prison, and I drew my breath
deeply as I inhaled the fresh air outside the wall. I should
have carried with me a very unfavorable impression of Katsena
if it had not been my destiny to visit this place again under
more favorable circumstances ; and I should have obtained a
very false idea of the character of the Fulbe if, from the little
experience which I had acquired in this place, I had formed a
definitive judgment of them.
On the southern side of the town there is at present no culti
vated ground, but the whole country is in a wild state, covered
with brushwood. What we saw also of the traffic on the path
seemed to be not of a very peaceable kind ; for we met nothing
* For the names of the chief places in the province, see Appendix VIII.

PROSPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 4gJ
but armed foot and horsemen, hastening to Katsena on the news
of the expedition in course of preparation by the people of Ma
radi. But farther on, the aspect of the country became a little
more peaceful ; and after a march of three miles we passed a
weU, where the women from a neighboring village were offering
for sale the common vegetables of the country, such as gowaza
or yams, dankaH or sweet potatoes, kuka, the leaves of the mon
key bread-tree, dodowa or the vegetable cakes mentioned above,
ground-nuts, beans, and sour milk. Nevertheless, the whole
country, with its few fortified villages, its little cultivation, and
the thick forests which separated the villages one from another,
left the impression of a very unsettled and precarious existence.
I observed that brushwood, where it is not interrupted by larger
trees, is always a proof of cultivation having been carried on at
no distant period. In the midst of a wild thicket, which de
ranged all my things, we met a long, warlike train of several hund
red horsemen, who perhaps might have incommoded us on the
narrow path if the strange appearance of my luggage had not
so frightened the horses that they rather chose to carry their
riders through the very thickest of the covert than to fall in
with us. Dum-palms now began to appear, and beyond the
considerable viUage Bay, cultivation became more extensive.
Besides the fan-palm, the dumma and kana, and the immense
monkey bread-tree, with its colossal (now leafless) branches,
from which the long heavy "kauchi" were hanging down on
slender mouse-taU stalks, were the prevalent trees.
By degrees the country became more beautiful and cheerful,
exhibiting a character of repose and ease which is entirely want
ing in the northern parts of the province ; separate comfortable
dweUings of cattle-breeding Fellani were spread about, and the
corn-fields were careftdly fenced and well kept. I was greatly
astonished when Gajere, with a certain feeling of national pride,
pointed out to me here the extensive property of Sidi Ghalli el
Haj A'nnur, the man whom I had occasion, in my description
of A'gades, to mention among the most respectable people of
that town. It is astonishing how much property is held in
these fertile regions by the Tawarek of A'sben, and to what con-
Vol. I.—H H

482 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
sequences this may eventually lead every body wiU easily con
jecture. A little before four o'clock in the afternoon we encamped close
to a village called Shibdawa, the celebrated town of Daura be
ing distant two days' march.
Friday, January 31st. It was a most beautiful morning, and
I indulged in the feeling of unbounded liberty, and in the tran
quil enjoyment of the beautiful aspect of God's creation. The
country through which we passed on leaving Shibdawa formed
one of the finest landscapes I ever saw in my life. The ground
was pleasantly undulating, covered with a profusion o'f herbage
not yet entirely dried up by the sun's power ; the trees, belong
ing to a great variety of species, were not thrown together into
an impenetrable thicket of the forest, but formed into beautiful
groups, exhibiting all the advantage of light and shade. There
was the kana, with its rich, dark-tinged foliage, the kadefia or
butter-tree, which I here saw for the first time, exhibiting the
freshest and most beautiful green ; then the mark6, more airy,
and sending out its branches in more irregular shape, with light
groups of foliage ; young tamarind-trees rounding off their thick
crown of foliage till it resembled an artificial canopy spread out
for the traveler to repose in its shade, besides the gamji, the sM-
ria, the sokutso, the turawa, and many other species of trees
unknown to me, while, above them aH, tall and slender gorebas
unfolded their fan-crowns, just as if to protect the eye of the de
lighted wanderer from the rays of the morning sun, and to al
low him to gaze undisturbed on the enchanting scenery around.
Near the village Kashi even the gonda-tree, or Carica Papaya,
which is so rarely seen in these quarters, enlivened the scenery.
The densely-luxuriant groves seemed to be the abode only of
the feathered tribe, birds of numberless variety playing and
warbling about in the full enjoyment of their liberty, while the
" serdi," a large bird with beautiful plumage of a light blue col
or, especially attracted my attention. Now and then a herd of
cattle was seen dispersed over the rich pasturage-grounds, all ;
of white color, and the buUs provided with a large fat hump, or
"tozo," hanging down on one side. But in this delightful

A THIEF KILLED. 483
spectacle objects of destruction also were not wanting, the poi
sonous plant " tumnia" starting forth every where.
Cotton and karasia fields interrupted the park-like scenery,
and near Kamri, a small place surrounded with a low clay wall,
we were delighted with the view of a green patch of low ground
laid out into beds, and, with the help of a number of draw-
beams, "khattatir" or "lambuna," producing wheat and onions.
This ground is only worked with the gelma and the fertana or
small hoe.
Granite rock was protruding in several places ; and a little
after midday we had a detached range of hills on our right,
stretching E. and W. Soon afterward, near the village Tem-
ma, we passed a smaU market-place, consisting of about eight
sheds, ahd shaded by a number of wide-spreading tamarind-
trees, where I was astonished at the number of cattle and horses
assembled, but heard, on inquiry, that they were not intended
for sale. Farther on, after we had passed the fields of Gogo,
plenty of cattle and goats were seen browsing every where
about. AU the cattle were of a white, and all the goats of a
coffee-brown color. Having passed the encampment of the Tin-
neggaru or Kel-neggaru, and crossed a dale fringed with small
fresh patches of wheat, which were watered by way of the said
"lambuna" from weUs in the hollow, we encamped a quarter
before four o'clock close to the fence of the village Bogo ; for
the whole country swarms with thieves, and great caution is
necessary at night: the Tin-neggaru last night killed a thief
who was attempting to carry off a loaf of salt.
Saturday, February 1st. After a march of about two miles
and a half, over clayey ground greatly broken up by the rains,
we reached the N.W. corner of the considerable town Kusada,
and continued along its western wall, where a group of very tall
and majestic rimis {Bombax or Friodendron Guineense), though
at present leafless, formed a most conspicuous object. It is
very singular and highly characteristic that this tree (the ben-
tang-tree of Mungo Park) generally grows near the principal
gate of the large towns in Hausa, while otherwise it is not fre
quent, at least not the large, full-grown specimens ; and it is not

484 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
improbable that the natives purposely planted them in those
places as a kind of waymark ; or perhaps it may be a remnant
of their pagan customs, this tree being deemed holy by several
pagan tribes. It is almost incredible at what an immense dis
tance these stupendous trees, the tallest of the vegetable king
dom, may be seen.
Kusada is a town of importance, and is very little less than
Gazawa, though not so thickly inhabited. The wall of the town
is in tolerably good repair, and the interior is rich in trees, mak
ing it look very cheerful and comfortable. Most of the huts
consist of clay waUs, with a thatched roof, which is certainly the
mode of architecture best adapted to the climate and the whole
nature of the country.
When leaving the south side of this town we were joined by
a troop of women very heavily laden, each carrying on the head
from six to ten enormous calabashes filled with various articles ;
but they did not prove to be agreeable company ; for, not being
able to walk steadily for any length of time with their loads,
they stopped every few minutes, and then went on at a running
pace till they were obliged again to halt, so that they came fre
quently into collision either with my camel or with the buUock.
It is really incredible what loads the native women of Negro
land can carry on their heads, but I think no other tribe is equal
in this respect to the Tapua or Nyffawa. The country through
which we had to pass along for the first two mUes was over
grown with underwood, and much broken up by the rains, tiU
we reached the stubble-fields of Kaferda, where my attention
was attracted again by a few scattered specimens of the gigina,
or deleb-palm, which, in these districts, seems to be extremely
rare. Descending then a little, the country assumed once more
that delightful park-like appearance which had so charmed me
the previous day ; and the variety of the vegetation was extra
ordinary, goreba, jeja, gamji, rimi, and doka being the principal
trees. The industry of the natives was also weU represented : for
soon after we had met a troop of men carrying home loads ot
indigo-plants, in order to prepare them in their simple way, we

THE VILLAGE GU'RZO. 485
passed over extensive tobacco-fields, which had very nearly
reached maturity. Eich aromatic bushes were growing every
where in the fields, affording the most nourishing food for bees,
for which purpose hives, formed of thick hollow logs, were fast
ened to the branches of the colossal kuka-trees. We here
passed a most curious specimen of vegetable intercourse in the
thorough intermixture of a gigina with another tree. In the
course of my travels my attention was drawn to the interesting
attraction which exists between the tamarind-tree and the ktika,
both of which trees I very often found linked together in the
closest embraces. This district was greatly enlivened also by
a rich variety of the feathered tribe ; but the beautiful serdi
was not seen, the kalo and the tsirna taking its place.
A quarter of an hour after noon we passed the considerable
place Dan-Sabua, defended only by a stockade, and, with the
exception of a small market-place, giving very little proof of
any kind of industry among its inhabitants. When I passed
the place three years later it even seemed almost deserted.
About two miles farther on we passed a small round hill cov
ered with underwood up to its very summit, and remarkable
enough for being taken as a boundary-mark between the prov
inces of Katsena and Kano ; in 1854, however, the frontier was
carried farther N.W., near Kaferda. We encamped early in
the afternoon near the viUage Gurzo, separated from it only by
a dell laid out in small garden-fields with wheat and onions,
and obtained a good supply of the latter, but nothing else. In
the night a thief almost succeeded in carrying off some of our
luggage, but had to run very hard for his life.
Early the next morning we started with an enthusiastic im
pulse, in order to reach before night the celebrated emporium of
Central Negroland. Kano, indeed, is a name which excites en
thusiasm in every traveler in these regions, from whatever quar
ter he may come, but principally if he arrives from the north.
We thus started in the twilight, passing in the bush some herds
of cattle remaining out in the pasture-grounds, and meeting sev
eral troops of travelers, which made us fancy the capital to be
nearer than it really was. We listened to the tales of our

486 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
comely and cheerful companion, the " baba-n-bawa" of Tagelel,
who detailed to us the wonders of this African London, Bir
mingham, and Manchester — the vastness of the town, the pal
ace and retinue of the governor, the immense multitudes assem
bled every day in its market-place, the splendor and richness of
the merchandise exposed there for sale, the various delicacies of
the table, the beauty and gracefulness of its ladies. At times
my fiery Tunisian mulatto shouted out from mere anticipation
of the pleasures which awaited him.
Keeping steadily along, we reached, after about five miles,
the very considerable town of Bechi, the weU-kept clay waUs
of which started forth suddenly from a most luxuriant mass of
vegetation, where we saw again the beautifully-feathered serdi
fluttering about from branch to branch.
The town is very remarkable, as exhibiting the peculiar cir
cumstances of the social state in this country ; for it belongs
partly to the Tawarek tribe of the Itisan, whose bugaje or serfs
— properly half-castes, born of free mothers, but slaves from the
father's side — live here, cultivating for their lords the fields
around the town. Thus we see Tawarek every where, not only
as occasional merchants, but even as settlers and proprietors.
The town has but one gate ; and a great many of the houses
are of the kind described above. Beyond the town the country
becomes less cultivated, and is mostly covered with the wUd
gonda-bush, which bears a most delicious fruit, richly deserving
to be called the cream-apple. I suspected it for some time to
be identical with the custard-apple ; but I afterward assured
myself that it is not. I call the attention of every African trav
eler to this fruit, which affords the greatest relief after a long
day's journey; but it does not grow on the flat, clayey plains
of Bornu Proper.
Beyond the little market-place of Budumme we met the first
strings of empty camels belonging to the airi with which we
had been traveling. They were returning from Kano, where
they had carried the salt, in order to retrace their steps to good
pasture-grounds, while their masters remained in the capital to
seU their merchandise. The drivers confirmed the information

FORM OF SALUTATION. 487
we had already received, that our protector Elaiji had not as yet
arrived in the town. For he likewise possesses a large proper
ty near Kazaure, whither he had gone after parting from me at
Katsena. The country again assumed a more cheerful charac
ter ; we passed several viUages, and even a marina, or dyeing-
place, and the path was well frequented. Almost aU the peo
ple who met us saluted us most kindly arid cheerfully ; and I
was particularly amused by the following form of salutation :
"Barka, sanu sanu: hm! hm!" "God bless you, gently,
gently ; how strange !" Only a few proud FeUani, very unlike
their brethren in the west, passed us without a salute. The
villages are here scattered about in the most agreeable and con
venient way, as farming villages ought always to be, but which
is practicable only in a country in a state of considerable secu
rity and tranquUHty. All their names, therefore, are in the plu
ral form, as Taraurawa, Jimbedawa, Bagadawa. The idea of a
great degree of industry was inspired by the sight of a marina
near Jimbedawa, comprising as many as twenty dyeing-pots ;
and here also a little market was held by the women of the dis
trict. About half past one in the afternoon we entered the rich
district of Dawano, which almost exclusively belongs to the
wealthy Dan Malia, and is chiefly inhabited by FeUani. There
was here a large market-place, consisting of several rows of
weU-built sheds, and frequented by numbers of people. A few
market-women attached themselves to our little troop, giving us
assurance that we should be able to reach the " birni" to-day,
but then added that we ought to arrive at the outer gate before
sunset, as it is shut at that time.
We accordingly pressed on with our varied little caravan,
consisting of a very lean black horse, covered with coarse wool
like hair, worth four dollars, or perhaps less ; a mare, scarcely
worth more in its present condition ; a camel, my faithful Bu-
Sefi, evidently the most respectable four-footed member of the
troop, carrying a very awkward load, representing my whole
traveling household, with writing-table and bedding-boards ; a
sumpter-ox, heavily laden; then the four human bipeds to
match, viz., one half-barbarized European, one half-civUized

488 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Goberawi Tunisian mulatto, a young lean Tebu lad, and my
stout, sturdy, and grave overseer from Tagelel. As we then en
tered some fields of sesamum, or " nome" (quite a new sight for
me in this country, but which was soon to become of very com
mon occurrence), Gajere descried in the distance between the
trees the top of the hill Dala, and we all strained our eyes to
get a first glimpse of this hiU, which is the real landmark of
Kano. The country hereabouts exhibited a new feature, some of the
fields being inclosed with a bush which I had not seen before,
and which was called by my intelligent guide " fidde serewuk-
ka." In Muniyo, where I afterward saw it used for the same
purpose, it is called " magara." It is a kind of broom, growing
to the height of ten or twelve feet, and has a milky juice, which
is slightly poisonous, but by some people is employed as a cure
for wounds caused by thorns. A little while afterward we saw
the first single date-palm, a tree also most characteristic of Kano;
and now, the country becoming clear, we obtained a full sight of
both the hills, Dala and K6go-n-dutsi, which rise from the flat
level of the plain ; but nothing was as yet visible of the town,
and we had but faint hopes of reaching it before sunset. How
ever, we went on, though a little disheartened, as we had some
foreboding that we should incur the displeasure of the governor;
and passing through the gate, in front of which part of the airi
were encamped, without stopping, as if we were natives of the
country, went on across open fields. It took us forty minutes
to reach the house of Bawu from the gate, though this lies near
the very outskirts of Dala, the northernmost quarter of the
town. It was quite dark, and we had some trouble in taking posses
sion of the quarters assigned to us by our host.
Kano had been sounding in my ears now for more than a
year ; it had been one of the great objects of our journey as the
central point of commerce, as a great store-house of information,
and as the point whence more distant regions might be most
successfully attempted. At length, after nearly a year's exer
tions, I had reached it.

RESIDENCE LN KANO'. 489

CHAPTEE XXV. \
RESIDENCE IN KANO. — VIEW OF ITS INTERIOR. — ITS HISTORY
AND PRESENT STATE.  COMMERCE.
Kano for us was a station of importance, not only from a
scientific, but also from an economical point of view. Instead
of being provided with ready cash, we had received in Murzuk,
on account of the British government, merchandise which, we
had been assured, would not only be safer than money, but ¦
would also prove more advantageous for. us. In consequence
of the heavy extortions to which we were subjected on the road
to Air, and of our long delay in that country, we had been de
prived of the smaU articles which we carried for barter, so that
we were entirely thrown upon the merchandise which we had for
warded in advance from Tinteggana ; and I, for my part, on my
arrival in Kano, had to liquidate a debt of not less than 112,300
kurdi, viz., 55,000 for the carriage of this very merchandise
from Tinteggana to Kano ; 8300 as my share of the presents or
passage-money given on the road ; 18,000 to Gajere, as hire for
the mare and buUock ; and 31,000 to a man of the name of
Haj el Dawaki, on account of Abu-Bakr el Wakhshi, for the
articles bought from him in Katsena, in order to satisfy the
governor of that place. Besides, I was aware that I had to
make a considerable present to the Governor of Kano ; and I
was most desirous to discharge Mohammed e' Tunsi, whom I
had discovered to be utterly useless in these countries, and who,
besides his insupportable insolence, might bring me into trouble
by his inconsiderate and frivolous conduct.
These were material caHs upon my incumbered property.
On my mind, too, there were claims of a not less serious char
acter; for, from my very outset from Europe, I had steadily
fixed my eyes upon that eastern branch of the Kwara, or so-
called Niger, which Laird, Allen, and Oldfield had navigated for

490 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the distance of some eighty miles, and which the former (al
though he himself did not penetrate farther than Fanda) had,
with reasons decisive in my eyes, and which could not be over
thrown, in my opinion, by Captain William Allen's ingenious
but fanciful hypothesis, concluded to have no communication
whatever with Lake Tsad, but to proceed from another and very
different quarter.*
I had therefore cherished the hope that I should be capable
of penetrating from Kano in the direction of 'Adamawa, a coun
try wherein I was sure that the question respecting the course
of the river would be decided ; but obviously such an under
taking could not be engaged in without pecuniary means, and
all therefore depended on my success in selling advantageously
the merchandise with .which I was provided.
For all these reasons, nothing could be more disagreeable and
disheartening to me, though I was not quite unprepared for it,
than the information which I received the very evening of my
arrival in Kano, that the price of merchandise such as I had
was very low. In the next place, I soon found that Bawu, Mr.
Gagliuffi's agent, whom, in compliance with his recommenda
tion, we had made also our commissioner, was not to be implic
itly relied on. He was the second son of Haj Hat Saleh, the
man so well known from the narrative of Captain Clapperton,
toward whom he seems to have behaved with honesty and fair
ness, and by this means perhaps he had recommended himself
to Mr. Gagliuffi ; but Bawu was not the right man to be in
trusted with discretionary power over the property of a foreign
merchant residing at a great distance, and belonging even to
another religion, or to be the commissioner for European trav
elers. Young and ambitious as he was, he had no other object
but to. insinuate himself into the good graces of the governor at
the expense of those who had been foolish enough to trust them-
* Laird's and Oldfield's Narrative, vol. i., p. 233. As this clear and rational
conviction, which the meritorious man who has labored so long for that part of
Africa entertained, has been entirely confirmed by my succeeding discovery, I
think it well to give to it all the publicity which it deserves. The two learned
geographers of Africa, Mr. Cooley and MacQueen, concurred entirely in this
opinion.

FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES. 491
selves into his hands. Besides, he had upon his hand a host
of younger brothers, who all wanted to "eat." Though Haj
Hat Saleh seems to have been a respectable man, he must have
paid very little attention to the education of his children.
It will scarcely be believed that this man, although he had
two camel-loads of goods of mine in his hands, yet left me with
out a single shell, " ko uri guda," for a whole fortnight, so that
I was glad to borrow two thousand kurdi, less than an Austrian
doUar, from Mohammed e' Sfaksi, in order to defray the most
necessary expenses of my household.
Besides, this agent urged the absolute necessity of making a
considerable present not only to the governor, which I was
quite prepared to do, but another of nearly the same value to
the ghaladima or first minister, who happened to be the govern
or's brother, and enjoyed quite as much authority and influ
ence. The consequence was, that I was obliged to give away
the few articles of value in my possession merely for being tol
erated and protected. The second day after my arrival the
governor received a message from Mr. Eichardson, forwarded
from Zinder, intimating that, after he should have received new
supplies from the coast, he would not fail to come to Kano ;
whereupon he sent me word that I had done very wrong to en
ter his town without giving him previous information, whereas
my countryman had already forwarded a notice that at some
future period he was likely to pay him a visit. Besides con
cluding from the fact that I was not mentioned at all in that
letter that I was traveHng on my own account, he made also
greater pretensions with regard to a present.
Being lodged in dark, uncomfortable, and cheerless quarters,
which I was forbidden to leave before the governor had seen
me, destitute of a single farthing in cash, while I was daily caU
ed upon and pestered by my numerous creditors, and laughed
at on account of my poverty by an insolent servant, my readers
may fancy that my situation in the great, far-famed entrepot of
Central Africa, the name of which had excited my imagination
for so long a time, was far from agreeable. Partly from anxie
ty, partly from want of exercise, in the course of a few days I

492 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
had a very severe attack of fever, which reduced me to a state
of great weakness. Fortunately, however, I mustered sufficient
strength to avail myself of a summons which caUed me at
length into the presence of the governor, on the 18th of Febru
ary ; and, by sacrificing what few things remained to me, I
paved the road for my further proceedings, while the degree of
exertion which was necessary to undergo the fatigue of the
visit carried me over my weakness, and restored me graduaUy
to health. The distances in Kano, though less than those of
London, are very great ; and the ceremonies to be gone through
are scarcely less tedious than those at any European court; >
Clothing myself as warmly as possible in my Tunisian dress,
and wearing over it a white tobe and a white bernus, I mount
ed my poor black nag, and followed my three mediators and ad
vocates. These were Bawu, Elaiji, and Sidi 'AH. Elaiji had
arrived three days after me from his estate, and had continued
to show me the same disinterested friendship which I had ex
perienced from him before. Sidi 'AH was the son of Moham
med, the former Sultan of Fezzan, and the last of the Welad
Mohammed, who was killed by Mukni, the father of Yusuf, Mr.
Bichardson's interpreter.
This man, whom it would have been far better for us to have
employed as our agent from the beginning, had testified his in
terest in my welfare by sending me a fat ram as a present, and
now accompanied me most kindly, in order to exert his influ
ence in my behalf with the governor. On my second visit to
Kano, on my return from Timbuktu in the latter part of 1854,
when I was still more destitute than in 1851, 1 placed myself
directly under his protection, and made him my agent at the
moment when the state of my affairs rendered considerable
credit desirable.
It was a very fine morning, and the whole scenery of the
town in its great variety of clay houses, huts, sheds, green open
places affording pasture for oxen, horses, camels, donkeys, and
goats, in motley confusion, deep hollows containing ponds over
grown with the water-plant, the Pistia stratiotes, or pits freshly
dug up in order to form the material for some new buildings,

INTERIOR OF KANO'. 493
various and most beautiful specimens of the vegetable kingdom,
particularly the fine symmetric gonda or papaya, the slender
date-palm, the spreading alleluba, and the majestic rimi or silk
cotton-tree {Bombax) — the people in all varieties of costume,
from the naked slave up to the most gaudily dressed Arab — all
formed a most animated and exciting scene. As far as the
market-place I had already proceeded on foot ; but Bawu, as
soon as he saw me, had hurried me back to my lodgings, as
having not yet been formally received by the governor. But
no one on foot can get a correct idea of an African town, con
fined as he often is on every side by the fences and waUs, while
on horseback he obtains an insight into all the court-yards, be
comes an eye-witness of scenes of private life, and often with
one glance surveys a whole town.
Passing through the market-place, which had only begun to
coUect its crowds, and crossing the narrow neck of land which
divides the characteristic pool " Jakara," we entered the quar
ters of the ruling race, the Fulbe or FeUani, where conical huts
of thatch-work and the gonda-tree are prevalent, and where most
beautiful and lively pictures of nature meet the eye on all sides.
Thus we proceeded, first to the house of the gado (the lord of the
treasury), who had already called several times at my house,
and acted as the mediator between me and the governor.
His house was a most interesting specimen of the domestic
arrangements of the Fulbe, who, however civilized they may
have become, do not disown their original character as " ber-
roroji," or nomadic cattle-breeders. His court-yard, though in
the middle of the town, looked like a farm-yard, and could not
be conscientiously commended for its cleanliness. Having with
difficulty found a small spot to sit down upon without much
danger of soiling our clothes, we had to wait patiently till his
exceUency had examined and approved of the presents. Having
manifested his satisfaction with them by appropriating to him
self a very handsome large gilt cup, which with great risk I had
carried safely through the desert, he accompanied us to the
"fada," "lamorde," or palace, which forms a real labyrinth of
court-yards, provided with spacious round huts of audience,

494 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
built of clay, with., a door on each side, and connected together
by narrow intricate passages. Hundreds of lazy, arrogant cour
tiers, freeirien and slaves, were lounging and idling here, killing
time with trivial and saucy jokes.
We were first conducted to the audience-hall of the ghaladi
ma, who, while living in a separate palace, visits the " fada" al
most every day, in order to act in his important and influential
office as vizier ; for he is far more intelligent, and also some
what more energetic, than his lazy and indolent brother 'Oth-
man,* who allows this excessively wealthy and most beautiful
province, "the garden of Central Africa," to be ransacked with
impunity by the predatory incursions of the serki Ibram of Zin
der, and other petty chiefs. Both are sons of Dabo and She-
kara, the latter one of the celebrated ladies of Hausa, a native
of Daura, who is still living, and has three other children, viz.,
a son (Makhmud) and two daughters, one of them named Fati
ma Zahar, and the other Saretu. The governor was then eight-
and-thirty, the ghaladima seven-and-thirty years of age. They
were both stout and handsome men, the governor rather too
stout and clumsy. Their apartments were so excessively dark
that, coming from a sunny place, it was some time before I could
distinguish any body. The governor's hall was very handsome,
and even stately for this country, and was the more imposing
as the rafters supporting the very elevated ceiling were conceal
ed, two lofty arches of clay, very neatly polished and ornament
ed, appearing to support the whole. At the bottom of the
apartment were two spacious and highly decorated niches, in
one of which the governor was reposing on a "gado," spread
with a carpet. His dress was not that of a simple PuUo, but
consisted of all the mixed finery of Hausa and Barbary ; he al
lowed his face to be seen, the white shawl hanging down far
below his mouth over his breast.
In both audiences (as well that with the " ghaladima" as
with the governor) old Elaiji was the speaker, beginning his
* 'Othman has since died of cholera, which made its appearance in Kano in
1855. I do not know the name of his successor. For the sake of the country, I
entertain the hope that he may be more energetic than his predecessor.

PRESENTATION CEREMONIES. 495
speech with a captatio benevolentice, founded on the heavy and
numerous losses sustained on the road by me and my compan
ions. Altogether, he performed his office very well, with the ex
ception that he dwelt longer than was necessary on Overweg's
journey to Maradi, which certainly could not be a very agree
able topic to Ba-Fellanchi. Sidi 'AH also displayed his elo
quence in a very fair way. The ghaladima made some intelli
gent observations, while the governor only observed that, though
I had suffered so severely from extortion, yet I seemed to have
still ample presents for him. Nor was he far wrong ; for the
black " kaba" (a sort of bernus, with silk and gold lace, which
I gave him) was a very handsome garment, and here worth six
ty thousand kurdi ; besides, he got a red cap, a white shawl with
red border, a piece of white muslin, rose oil, one pound of cloves,
and another of jawi or benzoin, razor, scissors, an English
clasp-knife, and a large mirror of German silver. The ghala
dima got the same presents, except that, instead of the kaba, I
gave him a piece of French striped silk worth fifty thousand
kurdi. However, our audience did not go off so fast as I relate it :
for, after being dismissed by the ghaladima, we were obliged to
wait full two hours before we could see the governor ; yet, al
though we returned to our quarters during the very hottest hour
of the day, I felt much better, and in the evening was able to
finish a whole chicken, and to enjoy a cup of Cyprian wine, for
which I felt very grateful to Mr. and Mrs. Crowe, who had sup
plied me with this cheering luxury.
Having now at length made my peace with the governor, and
seeing that exercise of body and recreation of mind were the
best medicines I could resort to, I mounted on horseback the
next day again, and, guided by a lad well acquainted with the
topography of the town, rode for several hours round all the in
habited quarters, enjoying at my leisure, from the saddle, the
manifold scenes of public and private life, of comfort and hap
piness, of luxury and misery, of activity and laziness, of indus
try and indolence, which were exhibited in the streets, the mar
ket-places, and in the interior of the court-yards. It was the

496

TRAVELS EST AFRICA.

most animated picture of a little world in itself, so different in
external form from all that is seen in European towns, yet so
similar in its internal principles.

Scale o£ Grcogrrfl-pliical miles.

1 * i

1. My own quarters in Dala. During
my second stay in Kano I also re
sided in Dala, at a short distance
from my old quarters.
2. Great market-place.
3. Small market-place.
i. Palace of Governor.
5. Palace of Ghaladima.
6. Kofa Maziiger.
7. Kofa-n-'Adama.
8. Kofa-n-Gudan.
9. Kofa-n-Kansakkali.

10. Kofa-n-Limun, or Kaboga.
11. Kofa-n-Dakanye, or Dukanie.
12. Kofa-n-Dakaina.
13. Kofa-n-Naisa.
14. Kofa-n-Kiira.
15. Kofa-n-Nasarawa.
16. Kofa-n-Mata.
17. Kofa-n-Wambay.
18. Kofa-n-Magardi.
19. Kofa-n-Rua (at present shut).
20. Mount Dala.
21. Mount K6go-n-dutsi.

STREET GROUPS. 497
Here a row of shops, filled with articles of native and foreign
produce, with buyers and seUers in every variety of figure, com
plexion, and dress, yet all intent upon their little gain, endeav
oring to cheat each other ; there a large shed, like a hurdle, full
of half-naked, half-starved slaves torn from their native homes,
from their wives or husbands, from their children or parents, ar
ranged in rows like cattle, and staring desperately upon the
buyers, anxiously watching into whose hands it should be their
destiny to fall. In another part were to be seen all the neces
saries of life ; the wealthy buying the most palatable things for
his table ; the poor stopping and looking greedily upon a hand
ful of grain : here a rich governor, dressed in silk and gaudy
clothes, mounted upon a spirited arid richly caparisoned horse,
and foUowed by a host of idle, insolent slaves ; there a poor
blind man groping his way through the multitude, and fearing
at every step to be trodden down ; here a yard neatly fenced
with mats of reed, and provided with all the comforts which the
country affords — a clean, snug-looking cottage, the clay waUs
nicely polished, a shutter of reeds placed against the low, well-
rounded door, and forbidding intrusion on the privacy of life, a
cool shed for the daUy household work — a fine spreading alle-
luba-tree, affording a pleasant shade during the hottest hours of
the day, or a beautiful gonda or papaya unfolding its large,
feather-like leaves above a slender, smooth, and undivided stem,
or the tall date-tree, waving over the whole scene ; the matron,
in a clean black cotton gown wound round her waist, her hair
neatly dressed in " chokoli" or bejaji, busy preparing the meal
for her absent husband, or spinning cotton, and, at the same
time, urging the female slaves to pound the corn ; the children,
naked and merry, playing about in the sand at the "urgi-n-da-
waki" or the " da-n-chacha," or chasing a straggling, stubborn
goat ; earthenware pots and wooden bowls, all cleanly washed,
standing in order. Farther on, a dashing Cyprian, homeless,
comfortless, and childless, but affecting merriment or forcing a
wanton laugh, gaudily ornamented with numerous strings of
beads round her neck, her hair fancifully dressed, and bound
with a diadem, her gown of various colors loosely fastened un-
Vol. I.— 1 1

498 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
der her luxuriant breast, and trailing behind in the sand ; near
her a diseased wretch covered with ulcers or with elephantiasis.
Now a busy " marina," an open terrace of clay, with a num
ber of dyeing-pots, and people busily employed in various proc
esses of their handicraft : here a man stirring the juice, and mix
ing with the indigo some coloring wood in order to give it the
desired tint ; there another, drawing a shirt from the dye-pot,
or hanging it up on a rope fastened to the trees ; there two men
beating a well-dyed shirt, singing the while, and
keeping good time ; farther on, a blacksmith busy
with his rude tools in making a dagger which
will surprise, by the sharpness of its blade, those
who feel disposed to laugh at the workman's in
struments ; a formidable barbed spear, or the more
estimable and useful instruments of husbandry;
in another place, men and women making use of
an ill-frequented thoroughfare as a " kaudi tseg-
genabe" to hang up, along the fences, their cot
ton thread for weaving ; close by, a group of indolent loiterers
lying in the sun and idHng away their hours.
Here a caravan from Gonja arriving with the desired kola-
nut, chewed by aU who have "ten kurdi" to spare from their
necessary wants, or a caravan laden with natron, starting for
Nupe, or a troop of A'sbenawa going off with their salt for the
neighboring towns, or some Arabs leading their camels, heavily
laden with the luxuries of the north and east (the " kaya-n-
ghabbes"), to the quarter of the Ghadamsiye ; there, a troop of
gaudy, warlike-looking horsemen galloping toward the palace of
the governor to bring him the news of a new inroad of Serki
Ibram, Every where human life in its varied forms, the most
cheerful and the most gloomy, seemed closely mixed together ;
every variety of national form and complexion — the olive-color
ed Arab, the dark Kanuri with his wide nostrils, the small-fea
tured, light, and slender Ba-Fellanchi, the broad-faced Ba-Wan-
gara (Mandingo), the stout, large-boned, and masculine-looking
Nupe female, the well-proportioned and comely Ba-Haushe
woman.

1 -
ii

L

I'WJtjBB

MOUNT DALA'. 501
Delighted with my trip, and deeply impressed by the many
curious and interesting scenes which had presented themselves
to my eyes, I returned by way of the " ungwa-n-makafi," or
" belad el amiyan" (the village of the blind), to my quarters, the
gloominess and cheerlessness of which made' the more painful
impression upon me from its contrast with the brightly animated
picture which I had just before enjoyed.
The next day I made another long ride through the town,
and, being tolerably weU acquainted with the topography of the
place and its different quarters, I enjoyed still more the charm
ing view obtained from the top of the Dala, and of which the
accompanying sketch is but a feeble representation.*
I had just descended from the eminence beneath which spread
this glorious panorama, when I heard a well-known voice call
ing me by my name ; it was ' AbdaUa the Tawati, my friend and
teacher in A'gades, who, after residing some time in Tasawa, had
come to try his fortune in this larger sphere of action. I had,
; besides him, some other acquaintances, who gave me much in
teresting information, particularly a young Ba-Haushe lad of
the name of Ibrahima, who gave me the first tolerably correct
idea of the road to Tola, the capital of Adamawa, although he
was, puzzled about the direction of the Great Eiver, which he
had crossed, supposing that it flowed eastward instead of west
ward. I derived also a great deal of information from a less
agreeable man named Mohammed, with the surname "el Mera
bet" (reclaimed), rather antithetically, as "lucus a non lucendo,"
for he was the most profligate drunkard imaginable, and event-
uaUy remained indebted to me for several thousand cowries.
I was much worried during my stay in Kano by a son of the
governor of Zaria, who, suffering dreadfully from stricture or
some other obstruction, had come expressly to Kano in the hope
* The very strong wind, which I had always the misfortune to encounter when
ascending Mount Dala, did not allow me to enter into all the details of the
sketch, which would be requisite to give a true picture of the variety of the scene;
and the glowing, lively tone spread over the whole has been inadequately caught
by the artist. I must also observe that the southern quarter of the town, which
is at too great a distance from this hill to be discernible, is far more picturesque
than the northern one.

502 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
of being relieved by me ; and it was impossible for me to con
vince him that I had neither, the knowledge nor the instruments
necessary for effecting the cure of his disease. It would, no
doubt, have been of great service if I had been able to cure him,
as he was the son of one of the most powerful princes of Negro
land ; but as it was, I could only afford him a little temporary
relief. My intercourse with this man was indeed most painful
to me, as I felt conscious of entire inability to help him, whUe
he conjured me by all that was dear to me not to give him up
or abandon him. He died shortly afterward. More agreeable
to me was a visit from the eldest son of the Governor of Kano,
who, accompanied by two horsemen, came to call upon me one
day, and, not finding me at home, traced me whither I had gone,
and having met me, followed silently till I had re-entered my
quarters. He was a handsome, modest, and intelligent youth
of about eighteen years of age, and was delighted with the per
formance of my musical-box. I gave him an English clasp-
knife, and we parted the best of friends, greatly pleased with
each other.
I had considerable difficulty in arranging my pecuniary affairs,
and felt really ashamed at being unable to pay my debt to the
Haj el Dawaki till after Wakhshi himself had arrived from Ka
tsena. After having sold, with difficulty, all that I possessed,
having suffered a very heavy loss by Bawu's dishonesty, paid
my debts, and arranged my business with Mohammed el Tunsi,
who, suffering under a very severe attack of fever, wanted most
eagerly to return home, I should scarcely have been able to make
the necessary preparations for my journey to Bornu if the gov
ernor had not assisted me a little. He had hitherto behaved
very shabbily toward me, not a single dish, not a sheep or other
token of his hospitality, having been sent me during my stay in
the town. I was therefore most agreeably surprised when, on
the morning of the 2d of March, old Elaiji came and announced
to me that, in consequence of his urgent remonstrances, the gov
ernor had sent me a present of sixty thousand kurdi. He told
me, with a sort of pride, that he had severely reprimanded him,
assuring him that he was the only prince who had not honored

MEDITATED DEPARTURE. 503
me. I should have been better pleased if the governor had sent
me a pair of camels or a horse ; but I was thankful for this un
expected supply ; and, giving six thousand to the officer who had
brought the money, and as much to Elaiji, and dividing eight
thousand between Bawu and Sidi 'AH, I kept forty thousand
for myself.
With this present I was fortunately enabled to buy two cam
els instead of sumpter oxen, which give great trouble on the
road during the dry season, especially if not properly attended
to, and prepared everything for my journey; but the people in
these countries are aU cowards, and as I was to go alone with
out a caravan, I was unable to find a good servant. Thus I
had only my faithful Tebu lad Mohammed whom I could rely
upon, having beside him none but a debauched young Fezzani,
Makhmud, who had long lived in this town, and a youth named
Abd-AUa. Nevertheless, I felt not a moment's hesitation, but,
on the contrary, impatiently awaited the moment when I should
leave my dingy and melancholy quarters, full of mice and ver
min. I had hoped to get off on the 6th ; but nothing was heard from
the governor, and it would have been imprudent to start with
out his permission. With envious feelings, I witnessed the de
parture of the natron-caravan for Niipe or Nyffi, consisting of
from two to three hundred asses. With it went Mohammed
A'nnur, a very inteHigent man, whom I had endeavored by all
possible means to hire as a servant, but could not muster sheHs
enough. However, the exploration of all those more distant re
gions I was obliged in my present circumstances to give up, and
to concentrate my whole energies on the effort to reach Kuka
wa, where I had concerted with Mr. Eichardson to arrive in the
beginning of April. I had had the satisfaction of sending off a
long report and several letters to Europe on the 1st of March
(when the Ghadamsiye merchants dispatched a courier to their
native town), and felt therefore much easier with regard to my
communication with Europe. My delay, also, had given me the
great advantage of making the acquaintance of a man named
Mohammed el 'Anaya, from the D'ara el Takhtaniye, to the south

504 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
of Morocco, who first gave me some general information about
the route from Timbuktu to Sokoto, which in the sequel was to
become a new field for my researches and adventures.
I became so seriously ill on the 8th that I looked forward
with apprehension to my departure; which was fixed for the fol
lowing day. But, before leaving this important place, I will
make a few general observations with regard to its history and
its present state.
The town of Kano, considered as the capital of a province,
must be of somewhat older date than Katsena, if we are to rely
on Leo's accuracy, though from other more reliable source's
(which I shall bring to light in the chapter on the history of
Bornu) it is evident that even in the second half of the sixteenth
century there could have been here only the fortress of Dala,
which, at that period, withstood the attacks of the Bornu king.
I think we are justified in supposing that, in this respect, Leo
(when, after an interval of many years, he wrote the account of
the countries of Negroland which he had visited) confounded
Kano with Katsena. The strength of the Kanawa, that is to
say, the inhabitants of the province of Kano, at the time of the
Bornu king Edris Alawoma, is quite apparent from the report
of his imam ; but from that time forth the country seems to
have been tributary to Bornu; and the population of the town
of Kano is said, with good reason, to have consisted, from the
beginning, mostly of Kanuri or Bornu elements. However, the
established allegiance or subjection of this province to Bornu
was evidently rather precarious, and could be maintained only
with a strong hand; for there was a powerful neighbor, the
King of Kororofa or Juku, ready to avail himself of every oppor
tunity of extending his own power and dominion over that ter
ritory. We know also that one king of that country, whose
name, however, I could not obtain, on the entry of a new gov
ernor into office in Kano, made an expedition into that country,
and installed his own representative in the place of that of Bor
nu, and though the eastern provinces of Kororofa itself (I mean
the district inhabited by the Koana or Kwana) became after
ward tributary to Bornu, yet the main province (or Juku Prop-

HISTORY OF KANO'. 505
er) with the capital Wukari, seems to have always remained
strong and independent, till now, at length, it seems destined to
be gradually swallowed up by the Fulbe, if the English do not
interfere. But to return to our subject. As long as Katsena
continued independent and flourishing, the town of Kano appears
never to have been an important commercial place ; and it was
not tiU after Katsena had been occupied by the Fulbe, and, owing
to its exposed position on the northern frontier of Hausa, had be
come a very unsafe central point for commercial transactions, that
Kano became the great commercial entrepot of Central Negro
land. Before this time, that is to say, before the year 1807, I
have strong reason to suppose that scarcely any great Arab
merchant ever visited Kano, a place which nevertheless contin
ues to this very day to be identified with Ghana or Ghanata, a
state or town expressly stated by Arab writers of the eleventh
century to have been the rendezvous for Arab merchants from
the very first rise of commercial connections with Negroland.
And all regard to historical or geographical facts is put aside
merely from an absurd identification of two entirely distinct
names such as Kano and Ghana or Ghanata.
As to the period when the Kanawa in general became Mo
hammedans, we may fairly assume it to have been several years
later than the time when Maji, the Prince of Katsena, embraced
Islam, or about the 17th century, though it is evident that the
larger portion of the population all over Hausa, especially that
of the country towns and villages, remained addicted to pagan
ism till the fanatic zeal of their conquerors the Fulbe forced
them to profess Islam, at least publicly. Nevertheless, even at
the present day there is a great deal of paganism cherished,
and rites really pagan performed, in the province of Kano as
well as in that of Katsena — a subject on which I shall say
something more on another occasion.
With regard to the growth of the town, we have express tes
timony that Dala was the most ancient quarter. The steep
rocky hill, about 120 feet high, naturally afforded a secure re
treat to the ancient inhabitants in case of sudden attack ; but it
is most probable that there was another or several separate vii-

506 TRAVELS m AFRICA.
lages within the wide expanse now encompassed by the waU,
which rather exceeds than falls short of fifteen English miles,
and it seems inconceivable why the other hill, " K6go-n-dutsi"
(which is inclosed within the circumference of the walls), though
it is not quite so well fortified by nature, should not have af
forded a strong site for another hamlet. We have, indeed, no
means of describing the way in which the town gradually in
creased to its present size ; this much, however, is evident, that
the inhabited quarters never filled up the immense space com
prised within the walls, though it is curious to observe that
there are evident traces of a more ancient wall on the south
side, which, as will be seen from the plan, did not describe so
wide a circumference, particularly toward the southwest, where
the great projecting angle seems to have been added in later
times for merely strategical purposes. The reason why the
fortifications were carried to so much greater extent than the
population of the town rendered necessary was evidently to
make the place capable of sustaining a long siege (sufficient
ground being inclosed within the walls to produce the necessa
ry supply of corn for the inhabitants), and also to receive the
population of the open and unprotected villages in the neigh
borhood. The inhabited quarter occupies at present only the
southeastern part of the town between Mount Dala and the
wall, which on this side is closely approached by the dwell
ings. On the northern margin of the Jakara is the market-place,
forming a large quadrangle, mostly consisting of sheds built in
regular rows like streets ; but the westernmost part of it forms
the slaughtering-place, where numbers of cattle are daily butch
ered, causing an immense quantity of offal and filth to accumu
late, for which there is no other outlet than the all-swallowing
Jakara. It is the accumulation of this filth in the most fre
quented quarters of the town which makes it so unhealthy.
On the northeast side of the sheds is the camel-market, where
also pack-oxen are sold. The shed where the slaves are sold is
at the northwest corner ; and thence along the principal street,
which traverses the market, is the station of the people who seU

THE QUARTERS OF THE TOWN. 507
firewood. The market is generally immensely crowded during
the heat of the day, and offers a most interesting scene.
The wall, just as it has been described by Captain Clapper
ton,* is still kept in the best repair, and is an imposing piece
of workmanship in this quarter of the world. This wall, with
' 'its gates, I have not been able to lay down with much exact
ness ; but, from my observations on my later visit in 1854, be
ing aware of the great inaccuracy of the little sketch of the town
given by Clapperton, who himself pretends only to give an eye-
sketch, I thought it worth while, with regard to a place like
Kano (which certainly will at some future period become im
portant even for the commercial world of Europe), to survey
and sketch it more minutely ; and I hope my plan, together
with the view taken from Mount Dala. of the southern and real
ly inhabited quarter of the town, will give a tolerably correct
idea of its character.
The market-place is necessarily much less frequented during
the rainy season, when most of the people are busy with the
labors of the field. A great part of the market-place during
that time is even inundated by the waters of the pond Jakara.
I now proceed to enumerate the quarters, the names of which
are not without their interest. I must first observe that the
quarters to the north of the great and characteristic pond Jaka
ra, which intersects the town from east to west, are chiefly in
habited by Hausa people, or, as they are called by their con
querors, "Habe," from the singular "Kado," while the south
ern quarters are chiefly, but not at all exclusively, inhabited by
the Fulbe {sing. Pullo), called FeUani {sing. Bafellanchi) by the
conquered race.
Beginning with Dala, the oldest quarter of the town, and
which, in commercial respects, is the most important one, as it
is the residence of almost all the wealthy Arab and Berber
(principaUy Ghadasiye) merchants, I shall proceed eastward,
then return by south to west, and so on. East-southeast, the
quarter called Deridalin (the esplanade) borders on Dala, then
Kutumbawa, Gerke, Madabo, Ya-n-tandu, Adakawa, Zoki, Ze"ta,
* Clapperton and Denham's Travels, vol. ii., p. 50.

508 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Li'manchi (or the quarter of the people of Toto, a considerable
town not far from Fanda) ; south from the latter, Yandowea, and
thence, returning westward, Jibdji-n-Yel-labu, another Liman-
chi (with a large mosque), Masu-kiyani (the quarter near the
" kaswa," or market-place), Tuddu-n-makera (the quarter of the
blacksmiths) on the west side of the market, Yamroche, " Ma-
rarraba bokoy" (the seven cross ways), " Baki-n-rua" (the water'
side — that is, the quay along the Jakara), not very neat nor fra
grant, and in this respect deserving to be compared with tlie
quays of the Thames, which may be called, just with the same
reason, the great sink of London, as the Jakara is that of Kano,
the difference being only that the Thames is a running stream,
while the Jakara is stagnant ; " Eunfawa" (the quarter of the
sheds), Yellwa. Here, turning again eastward, we come first to
the quarter Efma-n-jirajire, then enter Maggoga, then Maggogi,
Ungwa-n-kari, Dendali-n-Ware, Limanchi (a third quarter of
this name), Dukkurawa, Buffogi, Derma. All these are quar
ters of the Habe, where no Pullo, as far as I am aware, would
deign to live. Beyond the Jakara we now come to the quarters
of the ruling race, proceeding from west to east.
Yaalewa, Marmara, A'gadesawa (a quarter belonging original
ly to the natives of A'gades), Yola — the princely quarter of the
town, and called, on this account, madaki-n-Kano. It is inter
esting also as having given its name to the new capital of Ada-
mawa (the natives of Negroland being not less anxious than
Europeans to famUiarize the new regions which they colonize
by names taken from their ancient homes) ; El Kantara (so call
ed from a rough kind of bridge, or kadarko, thrown over one of
those numerous pools which intersect the town), Wuaitakka,
Go-sherifedodo (a quarter, the name of which is taken from, the
ancient pagan worship of the " dodo"), Tokoba, Dukkawa, Za-
ghidamse, Shafushi. Eeturning from east to west, we have the
quarters Sherbale, Madate, Kurna, Sheshe', "Dirmi (or dirre-
mi)-kay oku" (called from a tree of the dirremi species, with
three separate crowns), Leloki-n-lemu, Kollwa, al hendeki, Sora-
n-dinki, Eimi-n-koro, Toji, Yarkasa, Mandawari, Marmara (dif
ferent from the quarter mentioned" above), Danturku, Sabansara,

FASHIONABLE END OF THE TOWN. 509
Kudedefawa, Jingo, Doseyi, Warure, G'ao (an interesting name,
identical with that of the capital of the Songhay empire), Kur-
mawa, Hausawa, Ungwa Makama, Ghaladanchi (the quarter
wherein resides the ghaladima), Shuramchi (the quarter where
lives the eldest son of the governor, whose title chiroma — a Ka
nuri name — in the corrupted form of " shuromo," has furnished
the name of the quarter), Ye-serki, Kurmawa (not identical with
the above), " Kusserawa" (the corner), Udelawa. South from
the palace of the governor, Eimi-n-kera, Karaka, Dugerawa, Ya-
kase, Naserawa (most probably destined to be hereafter the
quarter of the Nasara or Christians), and 'Abdelawa.
AU over the town, clay houses and huts, with thatched con
ical roofs, are mixed together, but generally in the southern
quarter the latter prevail. The clay houses, as far as I have
seen them in Dala, where, of course, Arab influence predom
inates, are built in a most uncomfortable style, with no other
purpose than that of obtaining the greatest possible privacy for
domestic life, without any attempt to provide for the influx of
fresh air and light, although I must admit that a few houses
are built in somewhat better taste ; but invariably the court
yard is extremely small, and in this respect the houses of Kano
are very inferior to those of A'gades and Timbuktu, which are
built almost on the same principle as the dwellings of the an
cient Greeks and Eomans. I here give the ground-plan of the
house in which I lodged in 1851.
1. Large public yard common to the two houses, with two huts.
2. Irregular apartment where I was to reside, as it was least
wanting in light and air.
Dark room without any current of air, but to which I was
obliged to withdraw when suffering from fever.
Store-room.
Inner private yard.
Closet.
Almost all these houses have also a very irregular upper story
on a different level, and very badly aired. Many of the Arabs
sleep on their terraces.
In estimating the population of the town at 30,000, 1 am cer
tainly not above the truth. Captain Clapperton estimated it at

510 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
from 30,000 to 40,000. The population, as might be expected
in a place of great commercial resort, is of a rather mixed na
ture ; but the chief elements in it are Kanuri or Bornu people,
Hausawa, Fulbe or Fellani, and Nyffawa or Nupe; a good
many Arabs also reside there, who, by their commerce and their
handicraft, contribute a great deal to the importance of the
place. The influx of foreigners and temporary residents is oc
casionally very great, so that the whole number of residents
during the most busy time of the year (that is to say, from Jan
uary to April) may often amount to 60,000. The number of
domestic slaves, of course, is very considerable ; but I think it,
hardly equals, certainly does not exceed, that of the free men,
for, while the wealthy have many slaves, the poorer class, which
is far more numerous, have few or none. It would be very in
teresting to arrive at an exact estimate of the numbers of the
conquering nation, in order to see the proportion in which they
stand to the conquered. As for the town itself, their whole
number, of every sex and age, does not, in my opinion, exceed
4000 ; but with regard to the whole country I can give no
opinion. The principal commerce of Kano consists in native produce,
namely, the cotton cloth woven and dyed here or in the neigh
boring towns, in the form of tobes or rigona {sing, riga) ; tur-
kedf, or the oblong piece of dress of dark-blue color worn by the
women ; the zenne* or plaid, of various colors ; and the rawani
baki, or black litham.
* There is a great variety of this article, of which I shall enumerate a few
hinds : "Far.'-n-zenne," the white, undyed one ; " zenne deffowa," of light-blue
color ; " fessagida," with a broad line of silk ; " hammakiiku," with less silk, sold
generally for 3000 kurdi; "mailermi," sold for 2500; "zelluwami," a peculiar
zenne with a, silk border; "jumada," another similar kind; " da-n-katanga,'
once a very favorite article of female dress, and therefore called "the child of the
market" (of the word katanga I have spoken on a former occasion), with red and
black silk in small quantity, and a little white ; "albassa-n-Kwara," a very pecul
iar name, chosen to denote a kind of zenne of three stripes of mixed colors ;
" godo," white and black and of thick thread ; " alkilla," white and black check
ered; "saki," silk and cotton interwoven, and forming small squares black and
white; "keki," half turkedi (that is to say, indigo-colored), half "saki," or silk
and cotton interwoven ; " keki serki bokoy," four kinds. Besides, there are ten
kinds of zennwa entirely of silk, but these are made better in Nupe than in Kano.

EXPORT OF CLOTH. 511
The great advantage of Kano is, that commerce and manu
factures go hand in hand, and that almost every family has its
share in them. There is really something grand in this kind
of industry, which spreads to the north as far as Murzuk, Ghat,
and even Tripoli ; to the west, not only to Timbuktu, but in
some degree even as far as the shores of the Atlantic, the very
inhabitants of Arguin dressing in the cloth woven and dyed
in Kano ; to the east, all over Bornu, although there it comes
in contact with the native industry of the country ; and to the
south it maintains a rivalry with the native industry of the
I'gbira and I'gbo, whUe toward the southeast it invades tho
whole of Adamawa, and is only limited by the nakedness of
the pagan sans-culottes, who do not wear clothing.
As for the supply sent to Timbuktu, this is a fact entirely
overlooked in Europe, where people speak continually of the
fine cotton cloth produced in that town, while, in truth, all the
apparel of a decent character in Timbuktu is brought either
from Kano or from Sansandi ; and how urgently this article is
there demanded is amply shown by the immense circuit which
the merchandise makes to avoid the great dangers of the direct
road from Kano to Timbuktu traveled by me, the merchandise
of Kano being first carried up to Ghat, and even Ghadames, and
thence taking its way to Timbuktu by Tawat.
I make the lowest estimate in rating this export to Timbuktu
alone at three hundred camel-loads annually, worth 60,000,000
kurdi in Kano — an amount which entirely remains in the coun
try, and redounds to the benefit of the whole population, both
cotton and indigo being produced and prepared in the country.
In taking a general view of the subject, I think myself justified
in estimating the whole produce of this manufacture, as far as
it is sold abroad, at the very least at about 300,000,000 ; and
how great this national wealth is will be understood by my
readers when they know that, with from fifty to sixty thousand
One of these, called "bini da gani" (follow me and look), a name which is also
given to a conspicuous kind of beads, is distinguished by three colors — yellow,
red, and blue. Then there is a zenne made of atlas, called "massarchi;" an
other of colored Manchester ; and the simple one of Manchester, which is called
"bata."

512 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
kurdi, or from four to five pounds sterling a year, a whole fam
ily may live in that country with ease, including every expense,
even that of their clothing ; and we must remember that the
province is one of the most fertile spots on earth, and is able to
produce not only the supply of corn necessary for its popula
tion, but can also export, and that it possesses, besides, the finest
pasture-grounds. In fact, if we consider that this industry is
not carried on here, as in Europe, in immense establishments,
degrading man to the meanest condition of life, but that it gives
employment and support to families without compelling them
to sacrifice their domestic habits, we must presume that Kano
ought to be one of the happiest countries in the world ; and so
it is as long as its governor, too often lazy and indolent, is able
to defend its inhabitants from the cupidity of their neighbors,
which, of course, is constantly stimulated by the very wealth
of this country.
Besides the cloth produced and dyed in Kano and in the
neighboring villages, there is a considerable commerce carried on
here with the cloth manufactured in Nyffi or Nupe, wliich, how
ever, extends only to the first and the third of the articles above
mentioned, viz., the "rfga," or shirt worn by men, and the
" zenne" or plaid ; for the Nyffawa are unable to produce either
turkedi or rawani — at least for export — while they seem, with
the exception of the wealthier classes, to supply their own wants
themselves. The tobes brought from Nyffi are either large black
ones, or of mixed silk and cotton.
With regard to the former, which are called "giwa" (the ele
phant's shirt), I am unable to say why the Kanawa are not ca
pable of manufacturing them themselves ; but it seems that,
while they thoroughly understand how to impart the most beau
tiful dye to the turkedi, they are unable to apply the same to
the rfga — I do not know why.
Of the latter kind there are several varieties : the riga saki,
with small squares blue and white, as if speckled, and therefore
caUed by the Arabs "filfil" (pepper), and by the Tawarek, who,
as I have mentioned, esteem it more than any other kind, the
" Guinea-fowl shirt" (tekatkat tailelt), as shown in the accom-

GUINEA-FOWL SHIRT.— SANDALS.

513

panying wood-cut, is very becoming, and was my ordinary dress
from the moment I was rich enough to purchase it, as a good
one fetches as much as from eighteen to twenty thousand kur
di ; then the tob-harfr, with stripes of speckled cast like the tai
lelt, but intermixed with red ; the jellaba, red and white, with
embroidery of green silk, and several others. Specimens of all
these I have brought home and delivered to the Foreign Office.*
The chief articles of native industry, besides cloth, which
have a wide market, are principally sandals. The
sandals are made with great neatness, and, like the
cloth, are exported to an immense distance ; but,
being a cheap article (the very best, which are
caUed "taka-saraki," fetching only 200 kurdi),
they bear, of course, no comparison in importance
with the former. I estimate this branch at ten
miUions. It is very curious that the shoes made
here by Arab shoemakers, of, Sudan leather, and
Among these specimens is also an undyed and a dyed specimen of the " riga
tsamia," which seems to deserve a good deal of interest, as it consists half of
home-made silk, obtained from a peculiar kind of silk-worm, which lives on the
tamarind-tree. I also sent home from Kukawa, at a former period, a piece of
native cloth of the Kwana, a tribe of-the Kororofa.
Vol. I.— K k

514

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

mm

i

> " t ' ' *

called "belgh'a," are exported in great
quantities to North Africa. The " nesisa,"
or twisted leather strap, is a celebrated ar
ticle of Kano manufacture, and " jebiras,"
richly ornamented, as the accompanying
wood-cut shows, are made by Arab work
men. The other leather-work I will not men
tion here, as it does not form a great arti
cle of commerce ; but tanned hides (" ku-
labu") and red sheep-skins, dyed with a
juice extracted from the stalks of the hol-
cus, are not unimportant, being sent in
great quantities even as far as Tripoli. . I
value the amount of export at about five
millions.* Besides these manufactures, the chief
article of African produce in the Kano
market is the "guro," or kola-nut; but
whUe, on the one hand, it forms an important article of transit,
and brings considerable profit, on the other, large sums are ex
pended by the natives upon this luxury, which has become to
them as necessary as coffee or tea to us. On another occasion
I shaU enumerate the different kinds of this nut, and the sea
sons when it is collected. The import of this nut into Kan6,
comprising certainly more than five hundred ass-loads every
year, the load of each, if safely brought to the market — for it is
a very delicate article, and very liable to spoil — being sold for
about 200,000 kurdi, will amount to an average of from eighty
to one hundred millions. Of this sum, I think we shall be cor
rect in asserting about half to be paid for by the natives of the
province, while the other half will be profit.

* There are many other branches of manufacture in Kand which are too mi
nute to be enumerated here. I will only mention the framing of the little look
ing-glasses, called lemm'a, imported from Tripoli, and the immense variety of
bdtta or murta, small leathern boxes. There is also a kind of small box made
with great neatness from the kernel of the diim-fruit.

SLAVES.— SALT. 515
But we must bear in mind that the greater part of the per
sons employed in this trade are Kanawa, and that therefore
they and their families subsist upon this branch of trade.
A very important branch of the native commerce in Kan6 is
certainly the slave-trade ; but it is extremely difficult to say
how many of these unfortunate creatures are exported, as a
greater number are carried away by small caravans to Bornu
and Nupe than on the direct road to Ghat and Fezzan. Al
together, I do not think that the number of slaves annually ex^
ported from Kano exceeds* 5000 ; but, of course, a considerable
number are sold into domestic slavery, either to the inhabitants
of the province itseU or to those of the adjoining districts. The
value of this trade, of which only a smaU percentage falls to the
profit of the Kanawa, besides the tax which is levied in the
market, may altogether amount to from a hundred and fifty to
two hundred miUions of kurdi per annum.
Another important branch of the commerce of Kano is the
transit of natron from Bornu to Nupe or Nyffi, which here al
ways passes into other hands, and in so doing leaves a consid
erable profit in the place. The merchandise is very cheap, but
the quantity is great, and it employs a great many persons, as I
shall have ample occasion to illustrate in the course of my pro
ceedings. Twenty thousand loads, at the very least, between
pack-oxen, sumpter-horses, and asses, of natron must annually
pass through the market of Kano, which, at 500 kurdi per load,
merely for passage-money, would give 10,000,000 kurdi.
I here also mention the salt-trade, which is entirely an import
one, the salt being almost all consumed in the province. Of the
three thousand camel-loads of salt, which I have above computed
as comprising the airi with which I reached Katsena, we may
suppose one third to be sold in the province of Kano, and there
fore that hereby a value of from fifty to eighty millions annuaUy
is drained from the country. But we must not forget that the
money wliich is paid for this requisite (and not only for that
consumed in Kano, but also in other provinces) is entirely laid
* This trade will now be greatly affected by the abolition of the slave-trade in
Tripoli. ^

516 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
out by the sellers in buying the produce of Kano, viz., cloth
and corn. Here, therefore, is an absolute balance — a real ex
change of necessaries and wants.
As for ivory, at present it does not form a very important
branch of the commerce of Kano ; and I scarcely believe that
more than one hundred kantars pass through this place. The
lowest price of the kantar is in general thirty dollars, or 75,000
kurdi ; but it often rises to forty doUars, or 100,000 kurdi, and
even more, though I have seen it bought with ready money for
twenty-five dollars.
Of European goods the greatest proportion is still imported
by the northern road, while the natural road, by way of the great
eastern branch of the so-called Niger, wiU and must, in the
course of events, be soon opened.
But I must here speak about a point of very great import
ance for the English, both as regards their honor and their com
mercial activity. The final opening of the lower course of the
Kwara has been one of the most glorious achievements of En
glish discovery, bought with the lives of so many enterprising
men. But it seems that the English are more apt to perform a
great deed than to follow up its consequences. After they have
opened this noble river to the knowledge of Europe, frightened
by the sacrifice of a few lives, instead of using it themselves for
the benefit of the nations of the interior, they have aUowed it
to fall into the hands of the American slave-dealers, who have
opened a regular annual slave-trade with those very regions,
while the English seem not to have even the slightest idea of
such a traffic going on. Thus American produce, brought in
large quantities to the market of Nupe, has begun to inundate
Central Africa, to the great damage of the commerce and the
most unqualified scandal of the Arabs, who think that the En
glish, if they would, could easily prevent it. For this is not a
legitimate commerce ; it is nothing but slave-traffic on a large
scale, the Americans taking nothing in return for their mer
chandise and their dollars but slaves, besides a small quantity
of natron. On this painful subject I have written repeatedly
to H. M.'s consul in Tripoli, and to H. M.'s government, and I

EUROPEAN GOODS AT KANO'. 517
have spoken energeticaUy about it to Lord Palmerston since my
return. I principally regret in this respect the death of Mr.
Richardson, who, in his eloquent language, would have dealt
worthily with this question. But even from his unfinished
journals as they have been published, it is clear that, during
his short stay in the country before he was doomed to succumb,
he became weU aware of what was going on.*
The principal European goods brought to the market of Kano
are bleached and unbleached calicoes, and cotton prints from
Manchester; French silks and sugar; red cloth from Saxony
and other parts of Europe ; beads from Venice and Trieste ; a
very coarse kind of silk from Trieste ; common paper with the
sign of three moons, looking-glasses, needles, and small ware,
from Nuremberg; sword-blades from Solingen; razors from Styr-
ia. It is very remarkable that so little English merchandise
is seen in this great emporium of Negroland, which lies so near
to the two branches of " the Great Kiver" of Western Africa,
calico and musHns (or tanjips, as they are called by the mer
chants) being almost the only English articles. Calico certain
ly is not the thing most wanted in a country where home-made
cloth is produced at so cheap a rate, and of so excellent a quali
ty; indeed, the unbleached calico has a very poor chance in
Kano, while the bleached calico and the cambric attract the
wealthier people on account of their nobler appearance. In Tim
buktu, on the contrary, where the native cloth is dearer, un
bleached calico is in request ; and it would be so in an extraor
dinary degree if it were dyed dark blue. It is very interesting
to observe that a small proportion of the calico imported into
Kano is again exported, after having been dyed, returning even
* I need only refer -to the memorable passage in his Journal, vol. ii., p. 203.
The best of the slaves now go to Niffee, to be there shipped for America. They
are mostly males, and are minutely examined before departure." (This latter
circumstance agrees exactly with my own observations.) " From all reports, there
is an immense traffic of slaves that way exchanged against American goods, which
are driving out of the markets all the merchandise of the North." Eut another
passage is not less clear, p. 228, f. : " Slaves are sent from Zinder to Niffee. In
deed, it now appears that all this part of Africa is put under contribution to sup
ply the South American market with slaves."

518 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
the long way to Ghadames. I estimate the whole amount of
Manchester goods imported into Kano at about forty millions,
but it may be somewhat more. The sale of tanjips is very con
siderable ; and the import of this article into Kano certainly
equals in value that of the former.
The very coarse silk, or rather refuse, which is dyed in Tripoli,
is imported to a very considerable amount, this forming the prin
cipal merchandise of most of the caravans of the Ghadamsiye
merchants, and about one third of their whole commerce, amount
ing certainly to not less than from three to four hundred camel-
loads annually, worth in Kano each about 200,000 kurdi ; this
would give a value of about seventy miUions imported. But,
according to some well-informed people, even as many as one
thousand loads of this article pass annually through Ghadames;
so that, if we take into consideration that the supply of the
northerly markets (as Tasawa, Zinder) may well be compensated
by what is brought by way of Murzuk, the value of the import
of this article into Kano may be much more. A great deal of
this silk, I have no doubt by far the greatest part, remains in
the country, being used for ornamenting the tobes, sandals,
shoes, and other things.
Woolen cloth of the most ordinary quality, chiefly red, but
about one third of the whole amount of green color, was formerly
imported to a great extent ; but it has gone out of fashion, and
I think a better quality, like that with which the market of
Timbuktu is supplied by way of Mogador or Swaira, would suc
ceed. I estimate this branch at present at only fifteen millions.
Beads, in very great variety,* form an important article of im
port ; but the price has become so low of late years that there
has been very little profit, and the supply has been kept back
to raise the prices. The import of this article certainly amounts
to more than fifty mUlions of kurdi, of which sum the value of
twenty may remain in the country.
Of sugar, I think about one hundred camel-loads are imported
* The names of the different kinds of beads, of which I have collected thirty-
five, bear evident testimony to the imaginative powers and lively character of the
Hausawa.

SUGAR.— JAPER.— NEEDLES.— SWORD-BLADES. 51 9
every year, each containing eighty small loaves of two and a
half pounds each, which are sold in general at 1500 kurdi, so
that the import of this article would amount to about twelve
millions. It is very remarkable that in all Central Negroland
the large English sugarloaf is scarcely ever seen, while it is the
only one seen in Timbuktu. However, I was greatly surprised
when, on my return from that place in 1854, 'Aliyu, the Emir el
Mumenin of Sokoto, presented to me an English loaf of sugar ;
and I heard that he had received several of them as presents from
a merchant of Tawat. The small loaf has certainly a great ad
vantage in such a country, where money is scarce ; and I found
in 1854 that its weight had even been reduced to two pounds.
Common paper, caUed on the coast " tre lune," from the mark
of three moons which it bears, is imported in great quantity,
being used for wrapping up the country cloth ; but it is a bulky,
heavy article, and in larger quantities is sold at a very cheap
rate. The whole amount of this import may be about five mill
ions of kurdi.
Needles, with the emblem of the pig,* and smaU looking-
glasses caUed " lemm'a," in boxes, form important but very cheap
articles, and I think their amount together wUl not much exceed
the value of eight millions. Generally, the needles in large
quantities are sold for one "uri" or shell each, but often even
cheaper; and I was obliged to sell a 'thousand for six hundred
kurdi. Also, fine needles for silk-work are in request, but only
in smaU quantity, while large darning-needles are not at all
wanted here, where the cotton cloth is fine, but are the most
profitable thing in Eastern Negroland, from Bagfrmi inclusive
to Abyssinia.
Sword-blades, which are set here, are imported in considerable
quantity, as not only the Kel-owi and the neighboring Tarki
tribes, but also the Hausa wa, Fulbe, Nyffawa, and Kanuri or
Bornu people, are supplied from this market. Fifty thousand
may bethe general annual amount of this article, which produces
(the blade being reckoned at one thousand kurdi) fifty millions.
Originally these came from Nuremberg, but of late they have been also pro
duced in Leghorn.

520 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Almost all of them that I saw, not only here, but even among
the Tawarek near Timbuktu, were from Solingen. Only a small
proportion of the import remains in the country ; but the set
ting of the blades, which are again exported, secures a great
profit to the natives.
Very few fire-arms, as far as I became aware, are imported
into this market, although common muskets have begun to be
imported by way of Nyffi at extraordinary cheap prices by the
Americans. Pistols and blunderbusses are privately sold by
the merchants to princes or great men.
The common razors, made in Styria, with black wooden han
dles, bad as they are, are very much liked by the inhabitants,
who know how to sharpen them most beautifully, and strength
en the wretched handle with a guard of copper. I had a tol
erable supply of English razors, and found that those bought at
sixpence at home would sell profitably, but that nobody would
give for a good razor, though ever so exceUent, more than one
thousand kurdi ; however, the better sort are very fit for pres
ents to men of importance, who know well their value. In any
case, the handles ought to be strong, and not likely to break.
This commodity does certainly not much exceed two or three
millions. French sUks, called "hattaya," were formerly in great request,
but at present seem to be a little out of vogue ; and most of
what is imported here is exported again by second-hand buyers
to Yoruba and Gonja. The amount of this import into the
Kano market, I think, does not exceed twenty millions.
An important branch of import is formed by articles of Arab
dress, chiefly bernuses, caftans, sedriyas, trowsers, red caps, red
sashes, shawls. It is difficult to state, even approximately, the
value of these articles ; but it can not certainly be much less
than fifty millions altogether. The sort of dress most in request
comes from Tunis, but a good deal also from Egypt ; and from
the latter country come all the white shawls with red borders,
called " subeta" in Arabic, " aliyafu" in Hausa, and very much
liked by the negroes as well as by the Tawarek. The import
of this article alone exceeds the value of ten millions. The

ROSE-OIL.— COPPER.— SILVER. 521
common articles of dress, of coarser workmanship, are made in
Tripoli. Bed caps of very coarse description are now imported
from Leghorn, and find a sale, but are not liked by the free
people. Frankincense and spices — principally jawi, benzoin, the resin
obtained from a species of styrax, " simbil" or Valeriana Celt-
ica, and cloves — form a not inconsiderable article of import, per
haps amounting to fifteen millions. However, I exclude from
this sum the value of rose-oU which is annually imported in con
siderable quantity, and, being a dear article, forms also an import
ant one ; but very little of it comes into the general trade, al
most aU of it being disposed of privately to the princes and
great men, or given to them in presents. I am inclined to es
timate the value of this article imported at about forty millions.
Tin and many other smaller articles may together be estimated
at ten millions.
In the trade of Kano there is another very interesting article,
which tends to unite very distant regions of Africa ; this is cop
per — " ja-n-karfi." A good deal of old copper — say fifty loads.
together with about twenty loads of zinc — is imported from.
Tripoli ; but a considerable supply of this useful and handsomo
metal is also imported every year by the Jellaba of Nimro in
Waday, who bring it from the celebrated copper-mine, " el ho-
fra," situate to the south of Dar-Fiir, of which I shall have oc
casion to speak in the following volume.* I estimate the whole
import of this metal at about from fifteen to twenty millions :
but it is to be remarked that, so far from being to the disad
vantage of the Kanawa, it proves a new material of industry,
while only the smaller part remains in the country.
With regard to the precious metals, a small supply of silver
is imported by the merchants, but rather exceptionally, most of
the latter being but agents or commissioners engaged to effect
* I will here only mention that the profit on the copper for the Jellaba, if they
do not go themselves to the hofra, but buy it in Dar-Fur, is as follows : In Fiir
they buy the kantar of copper for one sedashi (slave), equal to the value of «
kantar of ivory, and sell it in Kukawa for 4000 rottls, equal to two kantars of
wory. In Kano the price is about the same.

522 TRAVELS EST AFRICA.
the sale of the merchandise forwarded from Tripoli and Fezzan.
The silver likewise supplies a branch of industry, the silver
smiths, who are generally identical with the blacksmiths, being
very clever in making rings and anklets. In Kano scarcely
any tradesman will object to receive a dollar in payment. With
regard to iron, which forms a very considerable branch of in
dustry in the place, I will only say that it is far inferior to that
of Wandala or Mandara and Bubanjidda, which I shall mention
in the course of my proceedings. Spears, daggers, hoes, and
stirrups are the articles most extensively produced in iron.
As for gold, though a general standard, of the mithkal at four
thousand kurdi, is usually maintained, in Timbuktu its price
greatly varies, from three thousand five hundred up to four
thousand five hundred kurdi ; but this unreasonable fluctuation
is but nominal, gold being scarcely ever bought in Timbuktu
for ready money, but for ttirkedis, when a turkedi bought in
Kano for eighteen hundred, or, at the utmost, two thousand,
fetches there a mithkal. One hundred mithkals of gold may
easily be bought in Kano at any time. Even the common cur
rency of the Kano market, the "uri" {pi. kurdi or shell {Cy-
prcea moneta), 2500 of which are equal to the Spanish or Aus
trian dollar,* forms an important article of import and com
merce, though I have not been able to ascertain that a large
quantity is ever introduced at a time. Nevertheless, that must
sometimes happen, as a great amount of shells has been export
ed to Bornu, where they have been recently introduced as cur
rency ; and this obviously explains why, since the year 1848,
the demand for these sheHs has so greatly increased on the
coast. These merely approximative figures can not be reduced to
the form of a balance-sheet, but they wiU give a general idea
of the commercial activity of the place. I will conclude these
few remarks by observing that the market of Kano is better
supplied with articles of food than any other market in Negro-
* There is no difference made between these two coins, women in general
even preferring Maria Theresa to the two columns on the Spanish dollar, which
they fancy to represent cannon.

POPULATION. 523
land ; but meat as well as corn is dearer here than in Kukawa,
particularly the latter. Besides the great market-place, there
are several smaller ones dispersed through the town, the most
noted of which are the kaswa-n-kurmi, Mandaweli, Hanga, kas-
wa-n-mata, kaswa-n-ayagi, kaswa-n-Jirba, kaswa-n-Yakase, kas-
wa-n-kofan Wambay, and the kaswa-n-kofan Nayisa.
The province of Kano,* which comprises a very fertile dis
trict of considerable extent, contains, according to my computa
tion, more than two hundred thousand free people, besides at
least an equal number of slaves, so that the whole population
of the province amounts to more than half a million, though it
may greatly exceed this number. The governor is able to raise
an army of seven thousand horse, and more than twenty thou
sand men on foot. In the most flourishing state of the coun
try, the Governor of Kano is said to have been able to bring
into the field as many as ten thousand horse.
The tribute which he levies is very large considering the
state of the country, amounting altogether to about one hundred
rmlhons of kurdi, besides the presents received from merchants.
The most considerable item of his revenue consists in the " kur
di-n-kasa" (what is caUed in Kanuri " larderam"), or the ground-
rent. It is said to amount to ninety millions, and is levied,
both here and in the province of Katsena, not from the ground
under cultivation, but every head of a family has to pay two
thousand five hundred kurdi, or just a Spanish doUar ; in the
province of Zegzeg, on the contrary, the kurdi-n-kasa is a tax
of five hundred kurdi levied on every fertana or hoe, and a sin
gle hoe wiU cultivate a piece of ground capable of producing
from one hundred to two hundred " demmi" or sheaves of grain
(sorghum and pennisetum), each of which contains two kel, while
fifty kel are reckoned sufficient for a man's sustenance during a
whole year. Besides the kurdi-n-kasa, the governor levies an
annual tax called " kurdi-n-korofi," of seven hundred kurdif on
every dyeing-pot or korofi, of which there are more than two
* For a list of the principal places of the province, see Appendix No. VTH.
t Other people have stated to me that the kurdi-n-korofi did not exceed 500
kurdi.

524 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
thousand in the town alone ; a " fitto" of five hundred kurdi on
every slave sold in the market; an annual tax, " kurdi-n-debi-
no," of six hundred kurdi on every palm-tree, and a small tax
called " kurdi-n-rafi" on the vegetables sold in the market, such
as dankali or sweet potatoes, gwaza or yams, risga, rogo, &c.
This latter tax is very singular, as the meat, or the cattle
brought into the town, as far as I know, does not pay any tax
at all. Clapperton was mistaken in stating that all the date-
trees in the town belong to the governor, which is not more true
than that all the sheds in the market belong to him.
The authority of the governor is not absolute, even without
considering the appeal which lies to his liege lord in Sokoto or
Wurno, if the subjects' complaints can be made to reach so far:
a sort of ministerial council is formed, to act in conjunction witli
the governor, which in important cases he can not well avoid
consulting. At the head of this council stands the ghaladima,
whose office originated, as we shaU see, in the empire of Bornu,
and who very often exercises, as is the case in Kano, the high
est influence, surpassing that of the governor himself; then fol
lows the " serki-n-dawakay" (the master of the horse), an im
portant charge in barbarous countries, where victory depends
almost always on the cavalry; then the "banda-n-Kano"(a sort
of commander-in-chief) ; then the " alkali," or chief justice, the
" chiroma-n-Kano" (the eldest son of the governor, or some one
assuming this title), who exercises the chief power in the south
ern part of the province ; the " serki-n-bay" (properly the chief
of the slaves), who has the inspection of the northern districts
of the province as far as Kazaure ; then the "gado," or lord of
the treasury; and, finally, the " serki-n-shano" (the master of
the oxen, or rather the quartermaster-general), who has aU the
military stores under his care ; for the ox, or rather the bull, is
the ordinary beast of burden in Negroland. It is characteristic
that, when the governor is absent paying his homage to his liege
lord, it is not the ghaladima, but the gado and the serki-n-sha
no, who are his lieutenants or substitutes.
With regard to the government in general, I think, in this
province, where there is so much lively intercourse, and where

DEPARTURE FROM KANO'. 525
publicity is given very soon to every incident, it is not oppress
ive, though the behavior of the ruling class is certainly haugh
ty, and there is, no doubt, a great deal of injustice inflicted in
small matters. The etiquette of the court, which is far more
strict than in Sokoto, must prevent any poor man from entering
the presence of the governor. The Fulbe marry the handsome
daughters of the subjugated tribe, but would not condescend to
give their own daughters to the men of that tribe as wives. As
far as I saw, their original type has been well, preserved as yet,
though, by obtaining possession of wealth and comfort, their
warlike character has been greatly impaired, and the Fellani-n-
Kano have become notorious for their cowardice throughout the
whole of Negroland.*

CHAPTER XXVI.
STARTING FOR KUKAWA.  THE FRONTIER DISTRICT.
Sunday, March 9th. The traveler who would leave a place
where he has made a long residence often finds that his depart
ure involves him in a great deal of trouble, and is by no means
an easy affair. Moreover, my situation when, after much delay,
I was about to leave Kano, was peculiarly embarrassing. There
was no caravan ; the road was infested by robbers ; and I had
only one servant upon whom I could rely, or who was really
attached to me, whUe I had been so unwell the preceding day as
to be unable to rise from my couch. However, I was full of
confidence; and with the same delight with which a bird springs
forth from its cage, I hastened to escape from these narrow, dirty
mud-waHs into the boundless creation.
There being scarcely any one to assist my faithful Gatroni,
the loading of my three camels took an immense time, and the
horseman destined to accompany me to the frontier of the Kano
* For some of the chief routes connecting Kano with the principal places
around, and for an account of Kororofa and "Wukari, see Appendix No. IX.

526 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
territory grew rather impatient. At length, at about two o'clock
in the afternoon, I mounted my unsightly black four-dollar nag,
and following my companion, who (in a showy dress, represent
ing very nearly the German costume about the time of the Thir
ty Years' war, and well mounted) gave himself all possible airs
of dignity, started forth from the narrow streets of Dala into the
open fields.
I felt my heart lightened, and, forgetting what had passed,
began to think only of the wide field now opening before me,
if fresh means should reach us in Kukawa. We had taken a
very circuitous road in order to pass through the widest of the
fourteen gates of the town ; but the long passage through the
wall was too narrow for my unwieldy luggage ; and my impa
tient, self-conceited companion fell into despair, seeing that we
should be unable to reach the night's quarters destined for us.
At length all was again placed upon the patient animals, and
my noble Bu-Sefi taking the lead of the short string of my car
avan, we proceeded onward, keeping at a short distance from the
wall, till we reached the high road from the K6fa-n-Wambay.
Here, too, is a considerable estate belonging to a ba-A'sbenchi
(a man from A'sben), who has a company of slaves always re
siding here. Going slowly on through the well-cultivated coun
try, we reached a small water-course. Being anxious to know
in what direction the torrent had its discharge, and unable to
make it out from my own observation, I took the liberty of ask
ing my companion ; but the self-conceited courtier,' though born
a slave, thought himself insulted by such a question, and by the
presumption that he ever paid attention to such trivial things as
the direction of a water-course or the name of a vUlage !
Having watered our horses here, I and my friend went on in
advance to secure quarters for the night, and chose them in a
small hamlet, where, after some resistance, a m'allem gave us
up part of his court-yard, surrounded with a fence of the stalks
of Guinea-corn. When the camels came up we pitched our
tent. The boy 'Abd-AUa, however, seeing that my party was
so smaU, and fearing that we should have some misadventure,
had run away and returned to Kano.

DOMESTIC SLAVERY. 527
Though there was much talk of thieves, who, indeed, infest
the whole neighborhood of this great market-town, and, excited
by the hope of remaining unpunished under an indolent govern
ment, very often carry off camels during the night, even from
the middle of the town, we passed a tranquil night, and got off
at a tolerably early hour the next morning. The character of
the country is almost the same as that during our last day's
march in coming from Katsena, small clusters of huts and de
tached farms being spread about over the cultivated country,
where we observed also some tobacco-fields just in flower : my
attention was more attracted by a small range of hills in the
distance on our left. I was also astonished at the little traffic
which I observed on this route, though we met a considerable
natron-caravan coming from Zinder, the ass and the bullock
going on peaceably side by side, as is always the case in Ne
groland. The country continued to improve ; and the fields of
Charo, shaded as they were by luxuriant trees, looked fertile
and well cared for, while the clusters of neat huts scattered all
about had an air of comfort. Here we ought to have passed
the previous night; and my companion had gone in advance to
deliver his order, and probably to get a good luncheon instead
of his missed supper. Beyond this village, or rather district,
cultivation seemed to be less careful; but perhaps the reason
was only that the villages were farther from the road.
The quiet course of domestic slavery has very little to offend
the mind of the traveler ; the slave is generally well treated, is
not over-worked, and is very often considered as a member of
the family. Scenes caused by the running away of a slave in
consequence of bad and severe treatment occur every day with
the Arabs, who generaUy sell their slaves, even those whom
they have had some time, as soon as occasion offers, but with
the natives they are very rare. However, I was surprised at
observing so few home-born slaves in Negroland — with the ex
ecution of the Tawarek, who seem to take great pains to rear
slaves — and I have come to the conclusion that marriage among
. domestic slaves is very little encouraged by the natives ; in
deed, I think myself justified in supposing that a slave is very

528 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
rarely allowed to marry. This is an important circumstance in
considering domestic slavery in Central Africa ; for, if these do
mestic slaves do not of themselves maintain their numbers, then
the deficiency arising from ordinary mortality must constantly
be kept up by a new supply, which can only be obtained by
kidnapping, or, more generally, by predatory incursions, and
it is this necessity which makes even domestic slavery appear
so baneful and pernicious. The motive for making these ob
servations in this place was the sight of a band of slaves whom
we met this morning, led on in two files, and fastened one to
the other by a strong rope round the neck.
Our march was to be but a short one, as we were to pass the
remainder of the day and the following night in Gezawa ; and,
as it was still long before noon, and we had the hottest time of
the day before us, I was anxious to encamp outside the town in
the shade of some fine tree, but my escort would not aUow me
to do so. We therefore entered the town, which is surrounded
with a clay wall in tolerable repair, and, moreover, by a small
ditch on the outside ; but the interior presents a desolate aspect,
only about a third part of the space being occupied by detached
cottages. Here I was lodged in a small, hot shibki (reed hut),
and passed the " erii" most uncomfortably, cursing my compan
ion and all the escorts in fhe world, and resolved never again to
take up my quarters inside a town, except where I was to make
a stay of some length. I was therefore delighted, in the course
of the afternoon, to hear from the man who had taken the cam
els outside the town upon the pasture-ground that the sherif
Konche had arrived and sent me his compliments.
I had once seen this man in Kano, and had been advised to
wait for him, as he was likewise on his way to Kukawa; but
knowing how slow Arabs are, and little suspecting what a so
ciable and amiable man he was, I thought it better to go on ;
whereupon he, thinking that my company was preferable to a
longer stay, hastened to follow me. To-day, however, I did not
see him, as he had encamped outside the town; still, I had
already much reason to thank him, as he had brought back my
fickle runaway servant 'Abd-AUa, whom, after some reprimand,

THE SHERIT AND HIS ATTENDANTS. 529
and a promise on his side to remain with me in future, I took
back, as I was very much in want of a servant. He was a na
tive of the country, a Bahaushe with a little Arab blood in him,
and had been reduced to slavery. Afterward, in Bornu, a man
claimed him as his property. His mother, who was living not
far from Gerki, was also about this time carried into slavery,
having gone to some village where she was kidnapped. Such
things are of daily occurrence in these countries on the borders
of two territories. The lad's sister had a similar fate.
The inhabitants of Gezawa seemed to be devoted almost en
tirely to cattle-breeding ; and in the market, which was held to
day (as it is every Monday) outside the town, nothing else was
offered for sale but cattle and sheep, scarcely a piece of cotton
cloth being laid out, and very little corn. Also round the town
there are scarcely any traces of cultivation. The mayor seem
ed not to be in very enviable circumstances, and bore evident
traces of sorrow and anxiety ; indeed, the laziness and indolence
of the Governor of Kano in neglecting the defense of the wealth
and the national riches of his province are incredible, and can
only be tolerated by a liege lord just as lazy and indifferent as
himself. But at that period the country stiU enjoyed some
tranquillity and happiness, while from the day on which the
rebel Bokhari took possession of Khadeja, as I shall soon have
occasion to relate, the inhabitants of all the eastern part of this
beautiful province underwent daily vexations, so that the towns
on this road were quite deserted when I passed a second time
through this country, in December, 1854.
Early next morning we loaded our camels and left town, in
order to join our new traveling companion, who by this time had
also got ready his little troop. It consisted of himself on horse
back, his " sirriya," likewise on horseback, three female attend
ants, six natives, and as many sumpter oxen. He himself was
a portly Arab, with fine, sedate manners, such as usually dis
tinguish wealthy people of the Gharb (Morocco); for he was a
native of Fas, and though in reality not a sherif (though the
title of a sherif in Negroland means scarcely any thing but an
impudent, arrogant beggar), yet, by his education and fine, no-
Vol.I.— Ll

530 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ble character, he deserved certainly to be called a gentleman.
The name " Konche" (Mr. Sleep) had been given to him by the
natives from his very reasonable custom of sleeping, or pre
tending to sleep, the whole day during the Bhamadan, which
enabled him to bear the fasting more easily. His real name was
'Abd el Khafif.
Our first salutation was rather cold, but we soon became
friends, and I must say of him that he was the most noble Arab
merchant I have seen in Negroland. Though at present he had
not much merchandise of value with him, he was a wealthy man,
and had enormous demands upon several governors and princes
in Negroland, especially upon Muniyoma, or the Governor of
Muniyo, who was indebted to him for about thirty millions —
shells, of course, but nevertheless a very large sum in this coun
try. Of his "sirriya," who always rode at a respectful distance
behind him, I can not speak, as she was was veiled from top to
toe ; but if a conclusion might be drawn from her attendants,
who were very sprightly, well-formed young girls, she must have
been handsome. The male servants of my new friend were all
characteristically dressed, and armed in the native fashion with
bows and arrows — knapsacks, water-bottles, and drinking-ves-
sels all hanging around them in picturesque confusion; but
among them was a remarkable fellow, who had already given
me great surprise in Kano. When lying one day in a feverish
state on my hard couch, I heard myself saluted in Bomaic or
modern Greek. The man who thus addressed me had long
whiskers, and was as black as any negro. But I had some
difficulty in believing him to be a native of Negroland. Tet
such he was, though by a stay in Stambul of some twenty years,
from his boyhood, he had not only learned the language perfect
ly, but also adopted the manners, and I might almost say the
features, of the modern Greeks.
In such company we continued pleasantly on, sometimes
through a cultivated country, at others through underwood,
meeting now and then a motley caravan of horses, oxen, and
asses, aU laden with natron, and coming from Muniyo. Once
there was also a mule with the other beasts of burden ; and on

ARRIVE AT KU'KA MAIRUA'. 531
inquiry, on this occasion, I learned that this animal, which I had
supposed to be frequent in Negroland, is very rare, at least in
these parts, and in Kano always fetches the high price of from
sixty to eighty thousand kurdi, which is just double the rate
of a camel. In Wangara and Gonja the mule seems to be
more frequent. But there is only one in Kukawa and in Tim
buktu, the latter belonging to one of the richest Morocco mer
chants. Animated scenes succeeded each other : now a well, where
the whole population of a viUage or zango were busy in sup
plying their wants for the day ; then another, where a herd of
cattle was just being watered ; a beautiful tamarind-tree spread
ing a shady canopy over a busy group of talkative women sell
ing victuals, ghussub-water, and sour milk or "cotton." About
ten o'clock detached dum-palms began to impart to the land
scape a peculiar character, as we approached the considerable
but open place Gabezawa, which at present exhibited the busy
and animated scene of a weU-frequented market. In this coun
try the market-days of the towns succeed each other by turns,
so that all the inhabitants of a considerable district can take ad
vantage every day of the traffic in the peculiar article in which
each of these places excels.
While pushing our way through the rows of weH-stocked
sheds, I became aware that we were approaching' the Hmits of
the Kanuri language ; for, being thirsty, I wished to buy ghus
sub-water ("fura" in Hausa), but in asking for it received from
the women fresh butter (" fula" in Kanuri), and had some dif
ficulty in making them understand that I did not want the lat
ter. Continuing our march without stopping, we reached at
noon the well-known (that is to say, among the traveling na
tives) camping-ground of Kuka mairu£, an open place surround
ed by several colossal specimens of the monkey-bread-tree, kuka
or Adansonia digitata, which all over this region of Central
Africa are not of that low, stunted growth which seems to be
peculiar to them near the coast, but in general attain to a height
of from sixty to eighty feet. Several troops of native traders
were already encamped here, while a string of some thirty cam-

532 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
els, most of them unloaded, and destined to be sold in Kano,
had just arrived. A wide -spreading tamarind-tree formed a
natural roof over a busy market-scene, where numbers of wom
en were selling all the eatables and delicacies of the country.
The vUlage lay to the southeast. Here we pitched our tents
close together, as robbers and thieves are very numerous in the
neighborhood ; and I fired repeatedly during the night, a pre
caution which the event proved to be not at all useless. The
name of the place signifies "the Adansonia with the water."
However, the latter part of the name seemed rather ironical, as
I had to pay forty kurdi for filling a water-skin and for water
ing my horse and my camels ; and I would therefore not advise
a future traveler to go to a neighboring village, which bears the
name of " Kuka maifura," in the belief that he may find there
plenty of cheap fura or ghussub-water.
Wednesday, March 12th. Our encampment was busy from
the very first dawn of day, and exhibited strong proof of indus
try on the part of the natives, for even at this hour women
were offering ready-cooked pudding as a luncheon to the trav
elers. Some of our fellow-sleepers on this camping-ground
started early ; and the two Welad SHman also, who led the
string of camels, started off most imprudently in the twilight.
As for us, we waited till every thing was clearly discernible,
and then took' the opposite direction through underwood ; and
we had advanced but a short distance when a man came run
ning after us, bringing us the exciting news that a party of Ta
warek had fallen upon the two Arabs, and after wounding the
elder of them, who had made some resistance, had carried of all
their camels but three. I expressed my surprise to my horse
man that such a thing could happen on the territory of the
Governor of Kano, and urged him to coUect some people of the
neighboring villages in order to rescue the property, which
might have been easily done ; but he was quite indifferent, and
smiling in his self-conceit, and pulling his little straw hat on
one side of his head, he went on before us.
Small villages belonging to the district of Zakara were on
each side, the inhabitants indulging still in security and happi-

NATRON-CARAVAN.— DO'KA. 533
ness ; the following year they were plunged into an abyss of
misery, Bokhari making a sudden inroad on a market-day, and
carrying off as many as a thousand persons. I here had a
proof of the great inconvenience which many parts of Negroland
suffer with regard to water, for the well at which we watered
our horses this morning measured no less than three-and-thirty
fathoms ; but I afterward found that this is a very common
thing as well in Bornu as in Bagirmi, while in other regions I
shall have to mention wells as much as sixty fathoms deep.
Beyond this spot we met a very numerous caravan with natron,
coming from Kukawa, and I therefore eagerly inquired the news
of that place from the horsemen who accompanied it. All was
well, but they had not heard either of the arrival or of the ap
proach of a Christian. This natron, which is obtained in the
neighborhood of the Tsad, was all in large pieces like stone,
and is carried in nets, while that coming from Muniyo consists
entirely of rubble, and is conveyed in bags, or a sort of basket.
The former is called " kilbu tsarafu," while the name of the lat
ter is " kilbu boktor." We soon saw other troops laden with
this latter article, and there were even several mules among the
beasts of burden. The commerce of this article is very im
portant, and I counted to-day more than five hundred loads of
natron that we met on our road.
I then went on in advance with "Mr. Sleep," and soon
reached the viUage Doka, which by the Arabs traveling in Ne
groland is caUed, in semi-barbarous Arabic, " Suk el karaga,"
karaga being a Bornu word meaning wilderness. The village
belongs to the Ghaladima. Here we sat tranquUly down near
the market-place, in the shade of some beautiful tamarind-trees,
and indulged in the luxuries which my gentleman-like compan
ion could afford. I was astonished as weU as ashamed at the
comfort which my African friend displayed, ordering one of the
female attendants of his sirriya to bring into his presence a
basket which seemed to be under the special protection of the
latter, and drawing forth from it a variety of well-baked pastry,
which he spread on a napkin before us, while another of the at
tendants was boiling the coffee. The barbarian and the civil-

534 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ized European seemed to have changed places ; and in order to
contribute something to our repast, I went to the markej; and
bought a couple of young onions. Beally it is incredible what
a European traveler in these countries has to endure ; for while
he must bear infinitely more fatigue, anxiety, and mental exer
tion than any native traveler, he is deprived of even the little
comfort which the country affords, has no one to cook his sup
per and to take care of him when he faUs sick, or to shampoo
him ; " And ah ! no wife or mother's care
For him the milk or corn prepare."
Leaving my companion to indulge in the " kief" of the Os-
manli, of which he possessed a great deal, I preferred roving
about. I observed that during the rainy season a great deal
of water must coUect here, which probably explains the luxuri
ant vegetation and splendid foliage of the trees hereabouts ; and
I was confirmed in my observation by my companion, who had
traveled through this district during the rainy season, and was
strongly impressed with the difficulties arising from the water,
which covers a great part of the surface.
Having allowed our people, who by this time had come up,
to have a considerable start in advance of us, we started at
length, entering underwood, from which we did not emerge till
we arrived near Gerki. According to instructions received from
us, our people had already chosen the camping-ground on the
northwest side of the town ; but my horseman, who had gone
in advance with them, thought it first necessary to conduct me
into the presence of the governor, or, rather, of one of the five
governors who rule over this place, each of them thinking him
self more important than his coUeague. The one to whom he
presented me was, however, a very unprepossessing man, and
not the same who, on my return from the west in 1854, treated
me with extraordinary respect. Yet he did not behave inhos
pitably to me, for he sent me a sheep (not very fat, indeed), with
some corn and fresh mUk. Milk, during the whole of my jour
ney, formed my greatest luxury ; but I would advise any Afri
can traveler to be particularly careful with this article, which is

ARRIVAL AT GEUKL— A RICH MERCHANT. 535
capable of destroying a weak stomach entirely ; and he would
do better to make it a rule always to mix it with a little water,
or to have it boiled.
The town of Gerki is a considerable place, and under a strong
government would form a most important frontier town. As it
is, it may probably contain about fifteen thousand inhabitants,
but they are notorious for their thievish propensities, and the
wild state of the country around bears ample testimony to their
want of industry. The market, which is held before the S.W.
gate, is of the most indifferent description. The wall, with its
pinnacles, is in very good repair. In order to keep the thievish
disposition of the natives in check, I fired some shots late in the
evening, and we slept undisturbed. On my return-journey,
however, in 1854, when I was quite alone with my party, I was
less fortunate, a most enterprising thief returning thrice to his
task, and carrying away, one after another, first the tobe, then
the trowsers, and finally the cap from one of my people.
Thursday, March 13th. Not waiting for the new horseman
whom I was to receive here early in the morning, I went on in
advance with my companion, in order to reach Gummel before
the heat of the day ; and we soon met in the forest a string of
twelve camels, aU laden with kurdi or shells, and belonging to
the rich Arab merchant Bu-hema, who resides in Muniyo, and
carries on a considerable business between Kano and Kukawa.
I wiU here mention that, in general, 100,000 kurdi are regarded
as a camel-load ; fine animals, however, like these, will carry
as much as a hundred and fifty thousand, that is, just sixty
dollars or twelve pounds' worth. It is easy to be understood
that, where the standard coin is of so unwieldy a nature, the
commerce of the country can not be of great value.
About two miles before we reached the frontier town of the
Bornu empire in this direction, we were joined by the horseman
of the Governor of Gerki ; and here we took leave of Hausa,
with its fine and beautiful country, and its cheerful and indus
trious population. It is remarkable what a difference there is
between the character of the ba-Haushe and the Kanuri — the
former lively, spirited, and cheerful, the latter melancholic, de-

536 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
jected, and brutal ; and the same difference is visible in their
physiognomies — the former having in general very pleasant and
regular features and more graceful forms, while the Kanuri, with
his broad face, his wide nostrils, and his large bones, makes a
far less agreeable impression, especially the women, who are
very plain, and certainly among the ugliest in aU Negroland,
notwithstanding their coquetry, in which they do not yield at
all to the Hausa women.
Birmenawa is a very small town, but strongly fortified with
an earthen wall and two deep ditches, one inside and the other
outside, and only one gate on the west side. Around it there
is a good deal of cultivation, wlrile the interior is tolerably well
inhabited. Konche, who was in a great hurry to reach Gum
mel, would have preferred going on directly without entering
the town ; but as I was obliged to visit it in order to change
my horseman, it being of some importance to me to arrive in
Gummel with an escort, he accompanied me. The population
consists of mixed Hausa and Kanuri elements.
Having obtained another man, we continued our march
through a country partly under cultivation, partly covered with
underwood, and were pleased, near the village of Tokun, to find
the Hausa custom of a little market held by the women on the
road side still prevailing ; but this was the last scene of the kind
I was to see for a long time. We reached the considerable
town of Gummel just when the sun began to shine with great
power ; and at the gate we separated, the sherif taking his way
directly toward his quarters in the southern part of the town,
while I was obliged to go first to the house of the governor, the
famous Dan-Tanoma (the son of Tanoma, his own name being
entirely unknown to the people) ; but, on account of his great
age, neither on this nor on a later occasion did I get a sight of
him. Indeed, he was soon to leave this world, and by his death
to plunge not only the town wherein he resided, but the whole
neighboring country, into a destructive civil war between his two
sons. However, on my first visit Gummel was stiU a flourishing
place, and well inhabited, and I had to pass through an intricate

GUMMEL.— HOUSE-BUILDING. 537
labyrinth of narrow streets, inclosed between fences of mats and
reeds surrounding huts and court-yards, before I reached the
dwellings of the few Arabs who live here ; and, after looking
about for some time, I obtained quarters near the house of Sa
lem Maidukia (the BothschUd of Gummel), where my Morocco
friend was lodged. But my lodgings required building in the
first instance, as they consisted of nothing but a court-yard, the
fence of which was in a state of utter decay, and a hut entirely
fallen in, so that there was not the least shelter from the sun,
whereas I had to wait two days at least for my new friend, whose
company I was not inclined to forego, without very strong rea
sons, on my journey to Kukawa.
However, building is not so difficult in Negroland as in Eu
rope, and a most comfortable dwelling, though rather light, and
liable to catch fire, may be erected in a few hours ; even a roof
is very sufficiently made, at least such as is here wanted during
the dry season, with those thick mats, made of reed, called "sig-
gedi" in Bornu. But, most fortunately, Salem had a conical
roof just ready, which would have afforded satisfactory shelter
even from the heaviest rain. I therefore sent immediately my
whole remaining supply of kurdi to the market to buy those mats
and sticks ; and getting four men practiced in this sort of work
manship, I immediately set to work, and, long before my camels
arrived, had a well-fenced private court-yard, and a splendid cool
shade, while my tent served as a store for my luggage and as a
bedroom for myseU.
Having, therefore, made myself comfortable, I was quite pre
pared to indulge in the luxurious luncheon sent me by the mai
dukia, consisting of a well-cooked paste of Negro miUet with
sour milk, after which I received visits from the few Arabs re
siding here, and was pleased to find one among them who had
been Clapperton's servant, and was weU acquainted with the
whole proceedings of the first expedition. He had been travel
ing about a good deal, and was able, with the assistance of a
companion of his, to give me a tolerably complete itinerary of
the route from Sokoto to Gonja, the guro-eountry and the north
ern province of Asianti. These Arabs necessarily lead here a

538 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
very miserable sort of existence ; Salem, however, a native of
Sokna, has succeeded in amassing a considerable fortune for
these regions, and is therefore caUed by the natives maidukia.
He had a freed slave of the name of Mohammed Abbeakuta,
who, though not at all an amiable man, and rather self-conceit
ed, nevertheless gave me some interesting information. Among
other things, he gave me a very curious list of native names of
the months,* which are not, however, those used by the Hausa-
wa, nor, I think, by the Yorubawa, he having been evidently a
native of Yoruba. He also gave me the foUowing receipt for an
antidote in the case of a person being wounded by poisoned ar
rows : a very young chicken is boiled with the fruits of the
chamsinda, the addwa {Balanites), and the tamarind-tree ; and
the bitter decoction so obtained, which is carried in a small leath
ern bag ready for use, is drunk immediately after receiving the
poisonous wound, when, as he affirmed, the effect of the poison
is counteracted by the medicine. The chicken would seem to
have very little effect in the composition, but may be added as
a charm. The next morning I went with 'Abd el Khafif to pay our com
pliments to old Dan-Tanoma. His residence, surrounded by
high clay walls, and including, besides numbers of huts for his
household and numerous wives, some spacious haUs of clay, was
of considerable extent ; and the court-yard, shaded by a wide-
spreading, luxuriant tamarind-tree, was a very noble area. While
we sat there awaiting the governor's pleasure, I had a fair insight
into the concerns of this little court, aU the well-fed, idle para
sites coming in one after the other, and rivaling each other in
trivial jokes. The Hausa language is the language of the court,
and the offices are similar to those which I mentioned above
with regard to Kano. Having waited a long time in vain, the
weak old man sending an excuse, as he could not grant us an
interview, we returned to our quarters.
* The names he gave me are as follow : Dubbera.no, Buteni, Hakka, Han'aa,
Syr-ha, Neshyra, Tarfa, Sabena, Harzana, Surfa, Iwak, Shemak, Ikehllu, Faram
makadam, Faram makhero. Of these fifteen names, which I was unable to iden
tify with the months of the Arab calendar, as the man scarcely understood a
word of Arabic, throe may rather denote the seasons.

MARKET OF GU'MMEL. 539
To day, being Friday, was market-day ; and, in order to see
the market in its greatest activity, I mounted at noon on horse
back and went out. In aU these parts of Negroland, the cus
toms of which are in every respect so different from those of
Yoruba and the neighboring countries, the market (in Kukawa
and Masefla as weU as in Kano, Sokoto, and even Timbuktu)
is always most frequented and most busy in the hottest hours
of the day, notwithstanding the great fatigue which all people,
and particularly the strangers, have to undergo.
The market of Gummel is held outside the town, between the
two gates on the west side, but nearer to the " chinna-n-yala"*
(the northern gate), which is remarkable on account of its wen-
fortified condition.
Though I had heard a good deal about Gummel, I was nev
ertheless surprised at the size and the activity of the market,
although that held on Saturday is said to be still more import
ant. Gummel is the chief market for the very extensive trade
in natron, which, as I have mentioned above, is carried on be
tween Kukawa and Muniyo on one side, and Nupe or Nyffi on
the other ; for this trade passes from one hand into another, and
the Bornu people very rarely carry this merchandise further than
Gummel. Large masses of natron, certainly amounting to at
least one thousand loads of both qualities mentioned above, were
offered here for sale — the fuU buUock's load of the better qual
ity for five thousand, an ass's load of the inferior sort for five
hundred kurdi. There were also about three hundred stalls or
sheds, but not arranged in regular rows, where a great variety
of objects were offered for sale — aU sorts of clothing, tools, earth
enware pots, aU kinds of victuals, cattle, sheep, donkeys, horses
—in short, every thing of home or foreign produce which is in
request among the natives.
The Arabs have their place under a wide-spreading fig-tree,
where I was greatly pleased to make the acquaintance of a very
* "Chinna-n-yala" is an interesting specimen of the corruption of a language
in the border-districts ; for while the words are Kanuri, they are joined according
to the grammar of the Hausa language, for in Kanuri the expression ought to be
"chinnayalabe."

540 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
intelligent man called 'Azi Mohammed Moniya, who gave me
some valuable information, particularly with regard to the route
from Kano to Toto, and that from Sokoto to Gonja. He also
gave me the first accurate description of the immense town Alori
or Ilori, the great centre of the conquering Fulbe in Yoruba,
which I shall have frequent opportunity of mentioning in the
course of my proceedings. This man, who was really very in
telligent, had traveled a great deal, and had made a long stay in
Stambul, assured me that Alori was, without the least doubt,
larger than the latter city. Yet this immense town, of which
the first accounts are due, I think, to Captain Clapperton, is
sought for in vain in many of our most recent maps.
Greatly delighted with my visit to the market, though not a
little affected by the exposure to the sun during the hot hours,
I returned to my quarters ; for, though a practiced traveler will
bear very well the most scorching power of the sun if he sets
out in the morning, and by degrees becomes inured to greater
and greater heat, he may suffer fatally from exposing himself
for a long time to the midday sun after having spent the morn
ing in the shade. Later in the afternoon, the governor sent, as
a gift to me and 'Abd el Khafif, through his principal courtiers
(such as the ghaladima, the chiroma, and others, who were ac
companied by a long train of followers), a young bullock, they
being instructed at the same time to receive in return the pres
ent, or "salam," as it is generally caUed, which we had pre
pared for him. I gave them a subeta and a smaU flask with
rose oil, which is an article in great request with the fashion
able world in Hausa and Bornu. In the evening we received
also corn for our horses.
Saturday, March 15th. This was a most fortunate and lucky
day for me ; for suddenly, when I least expected it, I was vis
ited by an Arab from Sokna of the name of Mohammed el Mu-
gharbi, who had just arrived with a little caravan of Swakena
from Murzuk, and brought me a considerable number of letters
from friends in Tripoli, England, and Germany, after my hav
ing been deprived of news from them for ten months. The let
ters gave me great delight ; but, besides the letters, there was

TWO SPANISH DOLLARS! 541
something with them which touched me more sensibly, by the
providential way in which it supplied my most urgent wants.
I was extremely short of cash, and having spent almost my
whole supply of shells in fitting up my quarters, paying my
guides, and discharging Makhmud, who had proved quite unfit
for service, I had very Httle left wherewith to provide for our
wants on our long journey to Kukawa. How surprised and de
lighted was I, then, on opening Mr. Gagliuffi's letter, at the un
expected appearance of two Spanish doUars, which he forwarded
to me in order to make good an error in my account with him.
Two Spanish dollars ! it was the only current money I had at
that time ; and they were certainly more valuable to me than
so many hundreds of pounds at other times. However, the ras
cal who brought me the letters had also merchandise, on the ac
count of the mission, to the value of one hundred pounds ; but,
either because he wished to deliver it to the director himself, or
in order to obtain also the hire stipulated for him if he should
be obliged to carry the merchandise on to Kukawa, he declared
that the things had gone on in advance to Kano — an evident
falsehood, which eventually caused us much unnecessary ex
pense, and brought Mr. Overweg and myself into the greatest
distress ; for I did not, in fact, receive this merchandise till aft
er my return from Adamawa, having subsisted aU the time upon
"air and debts."
This and the foUowing day I was busy answering my letters,
and I will only mention here that from this place I intimated to
one of my friends — Mr. Bichard Lepsius, of Berlin — my fore
boding that it might be my destiny, after trying in vain to pene
trate to any great distance in a southeastern direction, to turn
my steps westward, and to fill up my researches into the re
gions about Timbuktu by my personal experience. Having
finished my parcel of letters, I gave it to the Mugharbi to take
with him to Kano, and intrust it to the care of one of my Tin
ylkum friends, who would soon forward it to Murzuk.
Having been thus freshly imbued with the restless impulse
of European civilization, and strengthened with the assurance
that highly respected persons at such a distance took a deep in-

542 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
terest in the results of our proceedings, I resolved not to linger
a moment longer in this place, but rather to forego the company
of my amiable friend, particularly as I knew that he was going
to Muniyo, and therefore, after a few days' march, would at all
events separate from me. And I did weU; for my friend did
not reach Kukawa before the middle of May, that is, six weeks
after me. Such are the Arabs, and woe to him who relies upon
them ! The same thing happened to me on my successful re
turn from Bornu to the coast, in 1855. Every body assured
me that the caravan was to leave immediately ; but I went on
alone in May, and reached Tripoli in August, whUe the caravan
did not reach Murzuk before March, 1856.
I therefore sent to Dan-Tanoma, begging him to furnish me
with a horseman who would escort me to Mashena, and he as
sented. It was a hazardous and troublesome undertaking: I
had only one servant, faithful, but young, and who had never
before traveled this road, besides a little boy, delicate in body
and unsteady in mind, and I was sure that I myself should have
to do haH the work, as well in loading and unloading the cam
els as in pitching the tent and looking after every thing.
Monday, March 11th. Having taken a hearty leave of Abd
el Khaf if, I followed my camels and — my good luck. This was
the first time on my journey that I traveled quite alone, and I
felt very happy, though, of course, I should have been glad to
have had one or two good servants.
The country on the east side of Gummel, at least at this time
of the year, presented a very dull and melancholy appearance,
and the most decided contrast to that cheerful and splendid
scenery which is peculiar to the landscape round Kano. Nev
ertheless, it seemed to be well inhabited, and we passed several
places, some of them of tolerable size, and surrounded with
earthen walls of very inconsiderable elevation, and ditches; the
court-yards, especially in the first town which we passed, the
name of which is Kadangare, " the lizard" in Hausa, were wide
and spacious. A little later in the season the drought must be
terribly felt in these quarters, for even at present we had great
difficulty in watering our horses and filling a water-skin. Trees

BENZATIL— BOKHA'RI. 543
of good size became continually more scarce, but the country
was still weU inhabited, and after ten o'clock, near the little
town Gosuwa, surrounded likewise by a low earthen wall, we
reached a small market-place, consisting of about thirty stalls,
where a market is held every Sunday ; the town, however, was
not thickly inhabited, and near its northeast corner especially
there were large empty spaces.
Beyond this place the country became a little richer in trees,
and we here passed a large village caUed Gareji, where a path
branches off leading to Maimagaria, a road generaUy taken by
caravans. The population of all these places is composed of
Bornu and Hausa people, and many particular customs might
be observed hereabouts, which are rather peculiar to the latter
race. Drill as the country appeared, a feeling of tranquillity
andtsecurity was communicated by the sight of little granaries,
such as I have before described, scattered about without any
protection in the neighborhood of some viUages. After we had
passed the empty market-place of the little walled town Kab-
bori, the surface of the ground had a very peculiar look, being
covered entirely with colocynths, which were just in maturity.
About a mile and a haH further on we took up our quarters in
Benzari, a town belonging to the province of Mashena or Ma-
sena, and were weU received and hospitably treated by the
Grhaladima. The town is separated into two parts by a spa
cious opening, wherein is the principal well which supplies al
most the whole population, but its depth is considerable, being
more than twenty fathoms. Here we filled our water-skin the
next morning before we set out.
March 18th. Scarcely had we left Benzari behind us when my
ears were struck by the distant sound of drums and singing, and
I learned on inquiry that it was Bokhari, or, as the Bornu people
call him, Bowari, the deposed governor of Khadeja,* and the
brother of A'hmedu, the present ruler of that town. Bokhari's
name was then new, not only to me, but even to the natives of
the neighboring provinces. He had been governor of Khadeja,
Further on I shall give the itinerary from Kano to this important place,
joining it with my own rouie.

544 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
but, being a clever and restless man, he, or rather his jealous
brother, had excited the suspicion of his liege lord 'Aliyu, the
ruler of Sokoto, who had deposed him and given the government
to his brother A'hmedu, whereupon Bokhari had nothing else to
do but to throw himself upon the hospitality and protection of the
Bornu people, who received him with open arms, the Governor of
Mashena, with the sanction of his liege lord the Sheikh of Bor
nu, assigning to him a neighboring place, Yerimari, for his res
idence. This is an incident of very frequent occurrence in these
loosely-connected empires ; but it is particularly so with the
Fulbe, among whom one brother often cherishes the most invet
erate hatred against another. Exactly the same thing we have
seen already in Katsena. Bokhari, having remained some time
quietly in this place, strengthening his party, and assisted un
derhand with arms and men by the Yizier of Bornu, had just
now set out to try his fortune against his brother, and was beat
ing the drums in order to collect as many people as possible.
Predatory incursions are nothing new in these quarters, where
several provinces and entirely distinct empires have a common
frontier ; but this, as the event proved, was rather a memorable
campaign for the whole of this part of Negroland, and was to
become " the beginning of sorrows" for all the country around ;
for Bokhari, having taken the strong town of Khadeja, and killed
his brother, was not only able to defend himself in his new po
sition, vanquishing all the armies sent against him, and among
them the whole military force of the empire of Sokoto, wliich
was led on by the vizier in person, 'Abdu the son of Gedado,
Clapperton's old friend, but, spread terror and devastation to the
very gates of Kano. Indeed, on my second journey through
these regions, I shall have the sad duty of describing the state
of misery into which districts, which on my former visit I had
found flourishing and populous, had been reduced by this war
like chieftain, who, instead of founding a strong kingdom and
showing himself a great prince, chose rather, like most of his
countrymen, to base his power on the destruction and devasta
tion of the country around him, and to make himself a slave-
dealer on a grand scale. Tens of thousands of unfortunate peo-

CHDTO'WA.— KASELU'WA.— YE'LIvAZA'. 545
pie, pagans as weU as Mohammedans, unprotected in their weU-
being by their lazy and effeminate- rulers, have from the hands
of Bokhari passed into those of the slave-dealer, and have been
carried away from their native home into distant regions.
Kept in alarm by the drumming, and making some not very
tranquilizing reflections on the weakness of our little band,
which consisted of three men and a boy, in the turbulent state
of the country through which we were passing, we continued
silently on, whUe the character of the landscape had nothing
peculiarly adapted to cheer the mind. Cultivation beginning to
cease, nothing was to be seen but an immense level tract of
country covered with the monotonous Asclepias gigantea, with
only a single poor Balanites now and then. But the scene be
came more animated as we approached Chifowa, a considerable
town surrounded by a low earthen wall, which I was great
ly astonished to hear belonged still to the territory of Gum
mel, and was also assigned to Bokhari during his exile. The
boundary between the provinces must run here in a very waving
line. All that I observed here testified that the Hausa population
still greatly predominated ; and as we had to turn close round
the place on the north side, where the ground rose, we had a
fine view over the whole interior of the town. It presented a
very animated spectacle ; and a large number of horsemen were
assembled here, evidently in connection with the enterprise of
Bokhari, while men and women were busy carrying water into
the town from a considerable distance. Of cultivation, howev
er, very few traces appeared ; but a good many cattle and sheep,
and even some camels, were seen grazing about. In Kaselu-
wa, also, the next town, we were complimented with the usual
Hausa salute. Having then passed through a monotonous tract
of country, covered with tall reed-grass and with the Asclepias,
we reached the town of Yelkaza at half past nine in the morn
ing. Here the governor of the province of Mashena, who gen
erally has his residence in the town of the same name, was stay
ing at present, apparently on account of the expedition of Bo
khari, which he was assisting underhand ; and I accordingly had
Vol. I.— M m

546 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
to pay him my compliments, as my horseman, who was a serv
ant of Dan Tanoma, could not well conduct me any farther.
We therefore entered the town by the north gate, and found
people very busy repairing the fortification, consisting of two
walls and three ditches of considerable depth, two of which ran
outside round the outer wall, while the third was inclosed be
tween the two walls.
Having presented ourselves at the residence of the governor,
which was situated in the middle of the town, and consisted al
together of reed work, we obtained good quarters, with a spa
cious and cool shed, which was the only thing we wanted ; for,
being anxious not to lose any more time, I had resolved to start
again in the afternoon. In order, therefore, to obtain a guide
as soon as possible, I went to pay my compliments to the gov
ernor, whose name was Mohammed. After a little delay, he
came out of the interior of his reed house into the audience-
hall, which likewise consisted entirely of reed-work, but was
spacious and airy ; there he sat down upon a sort of divan, sim
ilar to the ankareb used in Egypt, and made of the branches of
the tukkuruwa, which had been brought in expressly for the
purpose. My interview, however, was short, for neither was he
himself a lively or inquisitive man, nor was my Tebu servant,
whom, as I myself was not yet able to speak Kanuri with tol
erable fluency, I was obliged to employ as interpreter, at all dis
tinguished either by eloquence or by frankness, though in other
respects he was an excellent lad.
I obtained, however, all that I wanted, the governor assigning
me immediately a man who should accompany me to Ghaladi
ma 'Omar, the governor of Bundi, and I was glad that he did
not grumble at my present, which consisted only of a small
vial of rose-oil and a quarter of a pound of cloves. The best
and most useful present for the governors on this road, who are
justly entitled to some gift, as no tolls are to be paid, is a su-
beta or white shawl, with red or yeUow border, such as are
brought from Egypt, which may be accompanied with some
spices. The old man also sent me, after a little while, when I
Had returned to my quarters, a dish which at least was not

TAGANA'MA.— LETTER-CARRTERS' MISTAKE. 547
richer than my present, consisting in a very unpalatable paste
of Negro corn, with a nasty sauce of miya or molukhiya. Hau
sa with its delicacies was behind us ; and I was unable to pro
cure, either for hospitality's sake or for money, a dish of " fura,"
which I had become very fond of.
The heat was very great, though a light fresh breeze from
the east made it supportable, and my new guide seemed by no
means so anxious to go on as I was, so that I was obliged to
search for him a long whUe. Having at length laid hold of him,
we started, passing through an undulating country without culti
vation, and covered only with brushwood, and with the dreadfully
monotonous kawo or Asclepias, when, after three miles, it be
came a little varied by underwood, the scene being enlivened by
a karabka or kafila, with nine camels, coming from Kukawa.
Thus we approached Taganama, a considerable town, inclosed
with a wall and a double ditch. We were obliged, however, to
go round the whole town, the western gate being closed, and a
sort of outwork, such as is very rare in these countries, consist
ing in a cross ditch projecting to a great distance, being made
at its northeast corner. At length we reached the eastern gate
and entered the town. Its interior left on us an impression of
good order and comfort ; aU the fences of the court-yards were
m excellent repair, the huts large and spacious, and a certain
air of well-being was spread over the whole place.
Having obtained tolerable quarters, and corn for my guide's
horse and my own, we lay down early, in order to continue our
journey with the first dawn next morning, but were roused at
midnight by some people arriving and stating, with an air of
great importance, that they had letters for me. Greatly sur
prised, and wondering what these important dispatches could
be, I got up, but found, when I had kindled a light, that the let
ters were not for me at aU, but addressed to persons in Kukawa
unknown to me, by others in Kano not better known. These
unknown friends most probably, after I had fairly set out, had
determined not to let slip this excellent opportunity of commu
nicating with their friends in Kukawa. However, the carriers
of the letters thinking, and perhaps expressly made to think,

548 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
that they had brought some important message for me, expect
ed a handsome present, and I had some difficulty in persuading
them that they were only giving me trouble for the sake of oth
er people. Nevertheless, as they were unprovided with food, I
ordered Mohammed to cook a supper for them ; and after hav
ing disturbed my night's rest by their noisy conversation, they
made off again long before daylight ; for in this whole district,
where so many different nationalities border close together, the
greatest insecurity reigns, and the inhabitants of one town can
not safely trust themselves to those of a neighboring place with
out fear of being sold as slaves, or at least of being despoiled
of the little they have.
My fine lancer, with whose manly bearing I had been very
much pleased yesterday, appeared to have thought that, instead
of exposing himself alone, by accompanying me farther through
a disturbed and infested district, he would do better to retrace
his steps in the company of these people, for the next morning
he was gone, and no trace of him was to be found. Perhaps he
was anxious to join the expedition against Khadeja, where the
soldier might make his fortune, while with me he could only ex
pect to gain a few hundred sheUs ; but, whatever was his reason
for decamping, he left me in a state of great perplexity, as I
was in a hurry to go on as fast as possible, and in a country
where there are no high roads, but where even tracks so import
ant as that from Kano to Kukawa are nothing but smaU paths
leading from one village or from one town to another, I. could
not weU dispense with a guide. As regards security, I could
only rely upon Providence and my own courage.
Having in vain searched for my man, I loaded the camels,
and mounting my horse, proceeded to the residence of the gov
ernor, who is the vassal of the ruler of Mashena. He, having
been informed by his servants, soon came forth, a taU, imposing
figure, and seeing that my complaint was just, his liege lord
having expressly assigned me the horseman in order to conduct
me to Bundi, he assured me that he would find another guide
for me ; but as it would take some time, he ordered one of his
servants to lead me out of the town to a place where the cam-

CURIOUS TALISMAN. 549
uls meanwhile might graze a little. Seeing that he was a just
and intelligent man, I thanked him for his kindness, and follow
ed his servant, who conducted us a few hundred yards from the
town, where there was most excellent pasturage for the camels.
While we were waiting here for the guide, my companion,
who was a sociable sort of man, helped me to pass the time
most agreeably with his instructive talk. I had observed a
very curious object at the governor's house — a leathern parcel
of considerable dimensions, tied up with great care and hung on
a long pole, and I had fancied that it contained the body of a
criminal exposed there to every man's sight as a warning exam
ple of severe punishment ; but, to my great astonishment, I now
learned that it was a powerful talisman suspended in order to
protect the town against the Fellata, as the Bornu people call
the Fulbe, whose inroads were greatly feared. He likewise in
formed me that four years ago there was a desperate struggle
for Taganama, when that town very narrowly escaped falling
into the hands of those fanatical invaders. He praised his mas
ter, whose name, as I now learned, was Tsa. The cheerful as
pect of the town seemed fully to confirm his praises, and I ex
pressed my hope that his watchfulness and energy might be a
better safeguard to the inhabitants than that monstrous taHs-
man, the dimensions of which were really frightful.
I was greatly pleased also to observe here the very first
signs of preparing the ground for the approaching season, the
slaves being busy clearing the soil with a sort of strong rake
provided with four long wooden teeth, called " kamga ;" but
this is very rarely done, and the preparatory labors of agricul
ture must differ more or less in different districts, according to
^e peculiar nature of the ground.
At length we saw the guides coming toward us. Instead of
a horseman there were two archers on foot,* short, muscular
men, clad only with a leathern apron round their loins, and for
* The drawing given by Denham of a Manga warrior makes him look much
taller than the Kanemma, while the Manga in general, though more robust, is
shorter than the former, though there are exceptions. The battle-axe also, and
other characteristic details, are wanting.

550 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
arms bearing, besides bow and arrows, the peculiar little Manga
battle-axe, which they carry on their shoulders, while a good-
sized leathern pocket for carrying provisions, and several di
minutive garra bottles hung down' by their sides. In short,
they were real Manga warriors, though they certainly did not
inspire us with all the confidence which we should have wished
to repose in a guide. However, having made them promise in
the presence of the governor's servant, who professed to know
them well, that they would accompany me to Biindi, I started
with them.
Having lost the finest hours of the morning, I was natural
ly anxious not "to waste more time ; and I was glad to per
ceive that the fine eastern breeze, which had prevailed for some
days, greatly lessened the power of the sun. Soon afterward
we met the brother of the Governor of Mashena, with a troop of
twelve horsemen, hastening toward the point where the mem
orable campaign of Bokhari was to commence. The country
was very monotonous, being soon covered with a forest of mean
growth, uninterrupted by any tree of larger size, except the
bare, dismal-looking kuka or monkey-bread-tree, and presented
evident signs of destructive warfare waged throughout it; we
passed the former sites of several small towns and villages.
The soil consisted here of deep white sand.
After a march of about eight miles, however, the vegetation
began to assume a different character, the ngille or dum-bush
first appearing, then a karage or gawo (the locust-tree) being
seen now and then, after which the dum-palm began to prevail
entirely. The substratum of this district is evidently granite,
which seems to lie very close to the surface, as about noon a
large mass of this rock projected near our path. A little be
yond this point the wilderness was agreeably interrupted by an
opening with stubble-fields, about which were scattered small
granaries, producing, at such a distance from any inhabited
place, and without guardians, an agreeable feeling of security.
Half an hour afterward we reached the stockade of Wuelleri,
and proceeded directly to the house of the billama or mayor, as
I wished to obtain another guide, for it was only with the great-

SCARCITY OF WATER. 551
est difficulty that I succeeded in dragging on thus far my two
archers, who had shown signs of the greatest anxiety during the
latter part of the march, and had tried several times to turn
their backs ; but farther they would not go on any account, and
I was therefore obliged to dismiss them, paying them three
hundred shells. Unfortunately, the billama was not at home,
and his brother proved to be a morose and surly fellow. I
wished to stay here only during the hot hours of the day, and
to proceed in the evening after having watered the camels ; but
he represented to me that the town of Mashena was too dis
tant to be reached before night, if I did not go on directly. As
this was impossible, I resolved to stay here for the night, and
pitched my tent in an open place in front of a cool shed. How
ever, we found great difficulty in watering our animals, the Man
ga pretending that there was no water, though we ourselves had
passed the weU where the cattle had just been watered. Cer
tainly the aquatic element was very scarce ; and, after much de
bate, I was at length obliged to pay one hundred and fifty shells
—an enormous charge, if the general price of the necessaries of
life in this country be considered.
Thus our poor camels got at length something to drink, and,
with a good feed in the afternoon, were prepared for a long march
the following day. However, we stiU wanted a guide; and,
notwithstanding our begging, promising, and threatening, we
were unable to persuade any one ,to accompany us on to Bundi.
The reason of this, however, was not only on account of the
absence of the Governor of Mashena from his capital, but like
wise owing to the unsettled state of the country, and the fear
entertained by these people of being caught and sold into slave
ry. Indeed, between all these towns there was scarcely any
mutual intercourse kept up by the natives themselves.
Thursday, March 20th. Having exerted myself to the ut
most to obtain a guide, I found myself obliged to start alone
with my two young lads, the eldest of whom was eighteen,
and the other not more than thirteen or fourteen years of age.
Field and forest succeeded alternately to each other ; and after
a little less than two miles, we passed on our left a small village

552

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

lightly fenced. Here we met also a small caravan, as a faint
symptom of peaceable intercourse, though its array (covered as it
went by an advanced guard of three archers marching at some
distance, and performing at the same time the office of scouts,
and by a rear-guard of two more) showed clearly their sense of
insecurity. The country now began to improve considerably ;
and a beautiful tamarind-tree vested in the richest foliage, and
closely embracing a colossal leafless Adansonia, formed the be
ginning of a finer vegetation, while two mounts, one on our
right hand and the other on our left, interrupted the monotonous
level through which we had been traveling. Farther on, gra
nitic masses projected on all sides, and a solitary date-palm
spread a peculiar charm over the landscape.
Having watered my horse at a well in the hollow between
the two mounts, I reached, with my camels, the ditch and thorny
fence then forming the only fortification of the town of Mashe
na, which place was strengthened, in the following year, with a
clay wall. It lies on the gentle southern slope of an eminence,
the top of which is crowned with a rocky crest, and is a consid
erable place for this country, having a population of certainly
not less than 10,000 souls, but without the least sign of indus
try. A small kafila of Tebu and Arab merchants were encamp
ed here; but, although we arrived at the very hottest time of
the day, I was too anxious to proceed to think of staying here;
and having only asked the news from Kukawa, and heard that
all was well, I continued my march. It shows the slowness
of intercourse in this country that these people were ignorant
of Mr. Bichardson's death, although he had died twenty days
before at a place only six days' march on this side of Kukawa.
Keeping steadily on, first over open pasture-grounds, then
through a section well wooded, we reached, after a march of
about seven miles, a village, and entered it cheerfuUy with the
intention of spending the night there, but were greatly disap
pointed on discovering that it was entirely deserted, and did not
contain a living creature. Fortunately, however, after consult
ing what was to be done, we found a traveler who showed us a
small path which was to lead us to the town of A'lamay. He

STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 553
also informed us that the inhabitants of this village, the name of
which was Jawel, had formed a new village further south. The
little path pointed out, however, was so overgrown and slightly
marked that we soon became doubtful and perplexed. I went,
therefore, to inquire of a shepherd whom we saw at some little
distance on the right of our path ; but no sooner did he observe
me approaching than he ran away, leaving his flock at our dis
cretion. The state of this country is very miserable indeed, all the
petty governors around, as soon as they have any debts to pay,
undertaking a predatory excursion, and often selling even their
own subjects.* However, we were lucky in finding at last a
more trodden path, which soon brought us to an open, strag
gling village named Kargimawa, which displayed a most ani
mated and cheerful picture of a wealthy and industrious little
community — the men sitting in the shade of some fine caout
chouc-tree, some of them busy making mats, others weaving,
while the women were carrying water, or setting the pot upon
the fire for the evening repast. Cattle, goats, and fowl roved
about in considerable quantities.
Quite delighted at arriving (in consequence of having strayed
from the direct road) at this sequestered place, we pitched our
tent with a grateful sense of security, and squatted comfortably
down, while the camels found a rich repast in the fields. In one
thing, however, I was disappointed. The sight of so many cat
tle had led me to anticipate a good draught of milk ; but the
cattle did not belong to the inhabitants, and before sunset they
were driven away. In other respects we were hospitably treat
ed, and four little dishes were brought us in the evening from
different huts, three of which contained paste of Guinea-corn,
and one beans. The latter always seemed to me an agreeable
variety; but a European must be very cautious how he indulges
The Anti-Slavery Society seems to be unaware of these facts, as they sup
pose that a person in these regions is sufficiently protected by his creed. They
appear not to have read the late Mr. Richardson's Journal, the latter part of
which is full of remarks and exclamations on this melancholy state of the inhab
itants. See especially vol. ii., p. 223.

554 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
in them in these regions, as they are apt to derange the stom
ach, and to bring on serious illness.
Friday, March 21st. Very early in the morning a numerous
troop of small tradesmen, with pack-oxen, passed through the
village while we awaited daylight ; and then, having gratefully
taken leave of the hospitable villagers, we set out, accompanied
by one of them to show us the road. Having passed the for
mer site of a little town, we soon gained the direct road, where
we fell in with a motley gipsy-looking troop of those Tebu-Jet-
ko, who, after the almost total annihilation of the commonwealth
of Kanem, have immigrated into Bornu. Those we met here
were coming from Zinder. They had a few horses, oxen, and
asses with them, but scarcely any luggage ; and the whole at
tire of men, women, and children was very poor. We then passed
the little town of A'lamay, surrounded not only with an earth
en wall and ditch, but also with a dense thorny fence some ten
feet thick on the outside. Here was exhibited the pleasant pic
ture of a numerous herd of fine cattle lying tranquilly on the
spacious area inside the wall, ruminating their last day's repast,
while a large extent of cultivated ground around the town gave
ample proof of the industry of the people. But the well-being
of the inhabitants of these regions has very little guarantee;
and when, toward the end of the year 1854, I again traveled
this same road, not a single cow was to be seen here, and the
whole place looked mournful and deserted, tall reed-grass cover
ing the fields which had been formerly cultivated.
Having then passed a thick forest of underwood, and some
cultivated ground, half an hour before noon we reached Bundi,*
the residence of the ghaladima 'Omar, fortified in the same way
as A'lamay, and went up directly to the house of the governor,
which consists entirely of reed-work. However, the mats ("la-
gara") which surround the whole establishment are of very great
height, at least fifteen feet, and of considerable thickness, made
of a peculiar reed called " sugu," and being sustained by long
* " Bundi," in Kamiri, means " wild beasts." The inhabitants still bear the
particular name of Nguru-bu, plural of Nguru-ma, from the name of the place or
district Nguni, generally called A'ngaru.

THE GHALADI'MA. 555
poles, and kept in a good state of repair, do not look ill. Be
sides, they are in general strengthened still further on the out
side by a fence of thorny bushes.
The ghaladima,* or governor of the Ghaladi, which (as we
shall see in the historical account of the Bornu empire) com
prised aU the western provinces of Bornu from the komadugu
Waube (the so-called Yeou) to the shores of the Kwara, having
his residence in Birni Nguru, near Marmar, in former times was
an officer (or rather an almost independent feudal vassal) of im
mense power ; at present, however, he has sunk to great insig
nificance, and in real power is much inferior to his neighbors
the governors of Muniyo, Zinder, and even that of Mashena.
But the present ghaladima 'Omar is an intriguing man, and it
would have been imprudent to pass on without paying him the
compliment of a visit ; and I was justified in hoping that he
would provide me with a guide, in order that I might reach as
soon as possible the presence of his liege lord the Sheikh of
Bornu. Not being able to see him directly, I was obliged to sacrifice
half a day, and to make up my mind to spend the night here.
I therefore asked for quarters, and was lodged in a spacious but
dirty court-yard, where I could procure but a very insufficient
shade with my little English beU-tent of thin canvas. Having
passed two uncomfortable hours without any refreshment, I was
called in the afternoon into the presence of the governor, and,
being obliged to leave my servant behind to take care of my
* The termination -ma in Kanuri signifies the possession of a thing, and is
equivalent to the mai- in Hausa, placed before a word. Thus, billa-ma is exact
ly identical with mai-gari, fir-ma with mai-ddki (the horseman), and so on.
With this termination almost all the names of offices are formed in Kanuri, as
yen-ma, chiro-ma, kasel-ma, and so on. Thus, also, the governor of the prov
ince Muniyo or Minyo bears the title Muniyd-ma or Minyd-ma, a name entirely
misunderstood by Mr. Richardson. I will only add here that the title of the
governor of the Ghaladi in the Bornu empire, on account of the immense extent
of the latter, has been introduced into the list of offices of all the courts of Cen
tral Negroland, and that we find a ghaladima in Sokoto as well as in every little
town of 'Adamawa. The same is to be said of some offices originally belonging
only to the court of the empire of Melle, such as that of fereng or farma, manso,
and others.

556 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
luggage while 'Abd- Alia was pasturing the camels, I went alone,
and found the great man in a spacious room or haU formed en
tirely of matwork, where he was lying upon an elevated platform
or divan spread with a carpet. He was a short, well-fed, dark-
colored man, of about sixty years of age, his large, broad face
looking forth from the hood of a blue cloth bernus, with a neu
tral expression, indicating neither stupidity nor cleverness ; his
courtiers were grouped around him on the ground. Having
saluted him and made the usual polite inquiries, I expressed
my ardent desire to reach Kukawa as soon as possible, as the
day which I had fixed with my elder brother (Mr. Bichardson)
for a meeting in that place was drawing nigh ; and I begged
him, therefore, to grant me a guide who might conduct me there
by the most direct road, of which I myself was ignorant, much
time having been already lost in groping my way from one place
to another. I then delivered my Httle present, consisting of an
English razor and a clasp-knife, a large mirror of German silver,
a parcel of English darning-needles, half a pound of cloves, and
a piece of scented soap. Having looked at these things with
satisfaction, he asked me if I had not any thing marvelous with
me ; and I consented to return to my quarters and fetch my
musical box, with the performance of which the ghaladima was
highly pleased, but greatly desired to see some other curious
things, such as pocket pistols, whereupon I told him that I had
nothing else to gratify his curiosity. I was much fatigued, and
on returning to my tent was not at aU pleased to be still troub
led by the governor's servant, who came to ask, in the name of
his master, for calico, sugar, rose oil, and sundry other articles.
Biindi is a place of tolerable size, but with little industry ;
and the province of which it is the capital is going to ruin more
and more, on account of the laziness and negligence of its gov
ernor — a statement which will be amply proved by the account
of my journey through the same district in 1854. The town
probably contains eight or nine thousand inhabitants, who be
long to the Manga nation, which seems to be the chief element
of the Kanuri, and preserves many very remarkable customs.
The special name of the clan of this tribe which dwells here-

KA'RDA. 557
abouts is Karda. There is no market here of any importance ;
but the inhabitants seem to be tolerably at their ease, and there
was music and racing, or"kadaske," in the evening, accompa
nied by the joyous shrill voices, the " wululi," of the women.
We, however, seemed to be forgotten ; and it was nine o'clock
at night, long after we had supped, when we received *a dish for
ourselves, and corn for the horse. It is rather remarkable that
these western provinces of Bornu were never conquered by the
Fulbe or Fellata, though lying so much nearer to those countries
of which they definitely have taken possession than that part of
Bornu situated between the old capital and the great lagoon.
The consequence is, that a certain degree of independence is al
lowed to them, and that they do not pay any tithes to the
sheikh.* * Here I will give the route from Kand to Alam'ay, near Biindi, by way of
Khadeja, as it determines approximately the position of this town, which has
been also mentioned by Clapperton as a place of importance. But its peculiar
political situation, forced upon it by the events of this period, when it became the
residence of a rebel chief waging war on all around, prevented my visiting it at
a future period.
1st day. On leaving Kand, sleep in Gdgia, where the Governor of Kand has u,
house, and where you arrive about two o'clock in the afternoon.
2d. Gaya, another town of the province of Kand, where you arrive about the
same hour, having crossed in the forenoon the bed of a torrent with water only in
the rainy season.
3d. Duchi or Diitsi ; arrive about the 'aser, having crossed in the morning a tor
rent called Dedurra, and passed about noon a half-deserted place called Katakatd.
4th. Zog6, a large open place, about 'aser. Many small villages on the road.
5th. Khadeja, a large town surrounded with a beautiful and very strong double
,clay wall, and well inhabited, the court-yards being inclosed with clay walls, but
containing only reed huts. The inhabitants employ themselves exclusively in
warlike expeditions, and have no industry ; but nevertheless there are still to be
seen here a few dyeing-pots, marking the eastern limit of this branch of indus
try. On the south side of the town is a kogi or komadugu, with a stream of
running water in the rainy season, but with only stagnant pools in summer, along
which a little wheat is cultivated. It is generally called Wani.
6th. Garii-n-ghabbes, a middle-sized walled town, the first place of Bdrnu, on
this side, with a good deal of cultivation around. Though without importance in
other respects, it is so in an historical point of view ; for this place,, being iden
tical with the town Biram ta ghabbes, mentioned above, is regarded as the oldest
place of the seven original settlements of the Hausa nation.
7th. A'lanv'ay, the place which I passed by this morning ; arrive about 'aser.
Country in a wild state ; no cultivation.

558 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

CHAPTEB XXVII.
BOENU PROPER.
Saturday, March 22d. The ghaladima had promised to send
me a horseman last evening, as I wanted to start early in the
morning ; but, as we neither saw nor heard any thing of him
the whole night, I thought it better not to lose any more time,
but to rely upon my own resources, and accordingly left the
town quietly by the northern gate, while the people, after last
night's merriment, were still buried in sleep.
Following the great road, we kept on tlirough a Hght forest,
at times interrupted by a little cultivation. We met several
parties — first of a warlike character, armed, horse and foot; then
a motley band of natron-traders, with camels, buUs, horses, and
asses, all laden with this valuable article. Emerging at length
from the forest, we came upon a wide extent of cultivated land,
with a sandy soil, with hardly a single tree at present, and, the
labors of the field not having yet commenced, still covered with
the kawo or Asclepias, the characteristic weed of Negroland,
which every year, at the beginning of the agricultural season,
is cleared away, and which during the dry season grows again,
often to the height of ten or twelve feet. We then had a most
interesting and cheerful scene of African life in the open, strag
gling village of Kalimari or Kalemri, divided into two distinct
groups by a wide open space where numerous herds of cattle
were just being watered at the wells ; but how melancholy, how
mournful became the recollection of the busy, animated scene
which I then witnessed, when, three years and a half later, as I
traveled again through this district, the whole village, which
now presented such a spectacle of happiness and well-being,
had disappeared, and an insecure wilderness, greatly infested by
robbers, had succeeded to the cheerful abode of man.

REGION OF THE DU'M-PALM. 559
But inviting as the village was for a halt during the heat of
the day, we had, as conscientious and experienced travelers, the
stomachs of our poor animals more at heart than our own, and
having watered the horse and filled our skins, we continued on
for a whUe, and then halted in very rich herbage, where, how
ever, there was scarcely a spot free from the disagreeable " ngib-
bu," the Pennisetum distichum. On starting again in the
afternoon, the country began to exhibit a greater variety of
bush and tree, and after a march of two hours we reached the
viUage Darmagwa, surrounded with a thorny fence, and en
camped near it, not far from another little trading-party. We
were soon joined by a troop of five Tebu merchants, with two
camels, a horse, and two pack-oxen, who were also going to Ku
kawa, but who, unfortunately, did not suit me as constant com
panions, their practice being to start early in the morning, long
before daylight, which was against my principle, as well in a
scientific as in a material point of view ; for neither should I
have been able to lay down the road with correctness, nor would
even the best arms have guaranteed my safety while marching
in the dark. We therefore allowed them next morning to have
the start of us for full two hours, and then followed.
Sunday, March 23d. We now entered a district which may
be most appropriately called the exclusive region'of the dum-
palm or Oucifera Thebaica in Negroland ; for, though this tree
is found in large clusters or in detached specimens in many lo
calities in Central Africa, yet it is always limited to some fa
vored spot, especiaUy to the bank of a water-course, as the ko-
madugu near the town of Y6, and there is no other district of
such extent as this tract between Kalemri and Zurrikulo where
the Oucifera Thebaica is the characteristic and almost only
tree. My Gatroni thought that the trees would perhaps not
bear fruit here, but on my second journey, in the month of De
cember, they were loaded with fruit.
The country has a very peculiar, open character, a sandy level,
very slightly undulating, covered thinly with tall reed-grass
shooting forth from separate bunches, the line of view broken
only now and then by a cluster of slender fan-palms, without a

560 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
single trace of cultivation. I was anxious afterward to know
whether this tract has always had this monotonous, deserted
character, or whether it had contained formerly any towns and
villages, and from all I could learn the former seems to be the
case. However, our road was frequented, and we met several
little troops of native travelers, with one of whom I saw the
first specimen of the " kuri," a peculiar kind of bull, of immense
size and strength, with proportionately large horns, of great
thickness, and curving inward. They are almost all of white
color. Their original home is Karga, the cluster of islands and
swampy ground at the eastern corner of the Tsad.
After five hours' marching, when we had just traversed a
small hollow full of herbage, the dum-palm was for a moment
superseded by other trees, chiefly by the gawo or karage, but it
soon after again asserted its eminence as the predominating tree.
We encamped at length, ignorant as we were of the country, a
few minutes beyond a small village, the first human abode we
had met with since we had left DarmagWEt, haH an hour before
noon, in the shade of a tamarind-tree, surrounded by a thick
cluster of dtim-palms. Certainly the tamarind-tree indicated
that water was near, but I was not a little surprised when
'Abd-Alla, who was tending the camels, brought me the news
that a considerable river, now stagnant, was close behind us.
It was, as I afterward learned, the " Wani," that branch of the
komadugu Waube (erroneously called " Y'eu") which runs past
Khadeja, and joins the other branch which comes from Kata-
gum. We therefore watered our camels here without being
obliged to pay a single shell, and gave them a good feed, after
which we resumed our march, and were not a little astonished
when, having crossed the komadugu where it formed a narrow
meandering channel about fifty yards broad, and bordered on
both sides with trees, we discovered the town of Zurrikulo at a
short distance before us.
Going round the north side of the town, we entered the di
lapidated waU on the eastern side, where there was an open
space, and pitched my tent close to the Tebu, who had arrived
already in the forenoon. Soon after, there arrived also a kafila,

ENTER BO'RNU PROPER. 5g1
with twelve camels and a number of oxen and asses, from Kiika-
wa, and I was anxious to obtain some news of Mr. Bichardson ;
but these people were utterly ignorant of the actual or expected
arrival of any Christian in that place. They told me, however,
what was not very agreeable, that the Sheikh of Bornu was
about to undertake a pilgrimage to Mekka; but, fortunately,
though that was the heart's desire of that mild and pious man,
he could not weU carry it into execution.
I had now entered Bornu proper, the nucleus of that great
Central African empire in its second stage, after Kanem had been
given up. It is bordered toward the east by the great sea-like
komadugu the Tsad or Tsade, and toward the west and north
west by the little komadugu which by the members of the last
expedition has been caUed Yeou, from the town of that name,
or rather Yo, near which they first made its acquaintance on
their way from Fezzan. I had now left behind me those loose
ly-attached principalities which still preserve some sort of inde
pendence, and henceforth had only to do with Bornu officers.
Not feeling very well, I remained in my tent without paying
ray compliments to the officer here stationed, whose name is
Kashella S'aid, with whom I became acquainted on a later oc
casion ; but the good man being informed by the people that a
stranger from a great distance, who was going to visit his liege
lord, had entered his town, sent his people to welcome me, and
regaled me with several bowls of very good paste, with fresh
fish, and a bowl of milk.
Zurrikulo was once a large town, and at the time of the in
road of Waday revolted from the sheikh, but was obliged to
surrender to his brother 'Abd e' Bahman. Since then.it has
gradually been decaying, and is now half deserted. The neigh
borhood of the town is full of wild animals ; and great fear was
entertained by my companions for our beasts, as we had no pro
tection in our rear. The roaring of a lion was heard during the
night. Monday, March 24th. Next morning, when we resumed our
march, the fan-palm for some time continued to be the prevail
ing tree ; but some kukas also, or Adansonia digitata, and
Vol. I._ N n

562 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
other more leafy trees began to appear, and after a while a thick
underwood sprang up. Then followed a few scattered, I might
say forlorn, date-trees, which looked like strangers in the coun
try, transplanted into this region by some accident. The sky
was clear ; and I was leaning carelessly upon my little nag,
musing on the original homes of all the plants wliich now adorn
different countries, when I saw advancing toward us a strange-
looking person of very fair complexion, richly dressed and arm
ed, and accompanied by three men on horseback, likewise arm
ed with musket and pistols. Seeing that he was a person of
consequence, I rode quickly up to him and saluted him, when
he, measuring me with his eyes, halted, and asked me whether
I was the Christian who was expected to arrive from Kano ; and
on my answering him in the affirmative, he told me distinctly
that my fellow-traveler Yakub (Mr. Eichardson) had died before
reaching Kukawa, and that all his property had been seized.
Looking him full in the face, I told him that this, if true, was
serious news ; and then he related some particulars, which left
but little doubt as to the truth of his statement. When his
name was asked, he called himself Ism'ail ; I learned, however,
afterward, frorn other people, that he was the Sherif el Habib,
a native of Morocco, and really of noble blood, a very learned
but extremely passionate man, who, in consequence of a dispute
with M'allem Mohammed, had been just driven out of Kukawa
by the Sheikh of Bornu.
This sad intelligence deeply affected me, as it involved not
only the life of an individual, but the whole fate of the mission ;
and though some room was left for doubt, yet, in the first mo
ment of excitement, I resolved to leave my two young men be
hind with the camels, and to hurry on alone on horseback. But
Mohammed would not hear of this proposal; and, indeed, as I
certainly could not reach Kukawa in less than four days, and
a*s part of the road was greatly infested by the Tawarek, such
an attempt might have exposed me to a great deal of incon
venience. But we determined to go on as fast as the camels
would allow us. We halted at eleven o'clock, shaded by the
trunk of an immense leafless monkey-bread-tree, a little behind

SANDY DOWNS.— DETFOWA. 563
the walled place Kabi, the southern quarter of which is alone
inhabited, and where our friends the Tebu had encamped. Start
ing, then, together with them at two o'clock in the afternoon, we
took the road by Deffowa, leaving on our right that wliich pass
es Donari, the country now assuming a more hospitable and
very peculiar character. *
For here begins a zone characterized by sandy downs from
100 to 120 feet high, and exhibiting on their summits a level
plain of excellent arable soil, but with few trees, while the dells
separating these downs one from the other, and which often wind
about in the most anomalous manner, are in general richly over
grown with a rank vegetation, among which the dum-palm and
the dum-bush are predominant. This curious formation, I fan
cy, has some connection with the great lagoon, which in a former
period must have been of much greater extent.
The intercourse on the road this afternoon was exceedingly
animated ; and one motley troop followed another — Hausa fa-
taki, Bornu traders or "tugurchi," Kanembu Tebu, Shuwa
Arabs, and others of the roving tribe of the Welad SHman, all
mixed together — whUe their beasts of burden formed a multi
farious throng of camels, oxen, horses, and asses. The Welad
Sliman, who were bringing camels for sale to the market of
Kano, were greatly frightened when I told them what had hap
pened to their brethren near Kuka mairua, as they were con
scious that most of the camels now with them were of the num
ber of those which two years ago had been taken from the Kel-
owi in Bilma.
As evening came on, the deUs which we had to traverse were
thronged with thousands of wild pigeons, carrying on their am
orous play in the cool twilight of approaching night. All was
silent, with the exception of a distant hum, becoming more and
more distinct as we wound along the side of an exuberant mean-
dering vaUey. The noise proceeded from the considerable town
of Deffowa, which we reached at a quarter past seven o'clock,
and encamped at a little distance to the north. Lively music
never ceased in the town tiU a late hour.
Tuesday, March 25th. All was still silent in the place when,

564 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
early in the morning, I set out with my little troop to follow the
track of our temporary companions, the Tebu. The village was
surrounded only by a light, thorny fence, but it seemed to be
prosperous and densely inhabited. The country continued sim
ilar in character, but better cultivated than the tract we had
traversed the day before ; and the immense multitude of wild
pigeons, which found a secure and pleasant haunt in the rank
vegetation of the hollows, made it necessary to resort to some
expedient to keep them off. High platforms were therefore
erected in the fields, in the shade of some tree, and ropes drawn
from them were fastened to poles and coated with a peculiar
vegetable extract, which caused them, if put in motion by a per
son stationed on the platform, to give forth a loud sound, which
kept the birds at a respectful distance.
We saw here also a small cotton-field. If the country were
more densely inhabited, and the people more industrious and
better protected by their slave-hunting governors, all the low
lands and valley-like hollows, which, in the rainy season, form
so many water-channels, and retain a great degree of moisture
during the whole year, would afford the most splendid ground
for this branch of cultivation.
The repeated ascent and descent along steep slopes of deep,
sandy soil more than a hundred feet high was very fatiguing
for the camels. While ascending one of these ridges, we had a
very charming view over the whole of the neat little village of
Kalowa, lying along the slope and in the hollow to our left. It
was rather small, containing about two hundred huts, but every
yard was shaded by a korna or bito-tree {Balanites), and com
fort (according to the wants felt by the natives) and industry
were every where manifested. In the midst was a large open
space, where the cattle were collecting round the wells to be
watered, while the people were drawing water to fill the large
round hollows, "kele nkibe," made with little clay walls to
serve as troughs. The blacksmith was seen busy at his sim
ple work, making new hoes for the approaching season; the
weaver was sitting at his loom ; several were making mats of
reed ; some women were carrying water from the wells, some

INDUSTRY. 565
spinning or cleaning the cotton, while others pounded corn for
their daily consumption. The little granaries, in order to pre
serve the stock of corn from the danger of conflagration, which
every moment threatens these light structures of straw and reed,
were erected on the sandy level near the edge of the slope.
Even the fowls had their little separate abodes,
also of reed, very thrifty and neat, as the ac
companying wood-cut will show. Such was
I the simple, but nevertheless cheerful picture
IJ which this little village exhibited. My two
boys were a long way ahead of me when I
awoke from my reverie and followed them.
It was shortly before we came to this village that we passed
the enormous skeleton of an elephant — the first trace of this an
imal which I had seen since Gazawa (I mean the independent
pagan place of that name between Tasawa and Katsena). The
road was frequented ; early in the morning we had met a party
of tugurchi with pack-oxen, who had been traveling a great part
of the night, as they generally do, on account of this beast of
burden bearing the heat of the day very badly. About an
hour's march beyond Kalowa we met a party of horsemen com
ing from Kukawa ; and as their head man appeared to be an in
telligent person, I approached him, and asked him the news of
the place. He most probably took me for an Arab, and told
me that all was well, but that the Christian who had been com
ing from a far-distant country to pay his compliments to the
sheikh had died, more than twenty days ago, in a place called
Ngurutuwa, before reaching Kukawa. There could now be no
more doubt of the sad event, and with sad emotion I continued
my march, praying to the Merciful to grant me better success
than had fallen to the lot of my companion, and to strengthen
me, that I might carry out the benevolent and humane purposes
of our mission.
This district also has a very scanty supply of water, and it
took us more than half an hour to collect, from four wells near
.another small viUage, a sufficient supply for my horses ; but as
to filling our water-skins, it was not to be thought of. The

566 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
wells were ten fathoms deep. We halted half ari hour before
noon, not far from another well, at the foot of a sandy swell
upon which the little village of "M'allem Keremeri" is situated.
Here, as well as in the village passed in the morning, we could
not obtain beans, though the cultivation of them is in general
carried on to a great extent ; but this district seemed to produce
millet or Pennisetum typhdideum almost exclusively — at least
no sorghum was to be seen. Keeping generally along a hoUow,
which, however, was not much depressed, and which consisted
of arable, sandy soil, with a few bushes and trees, we reached
the little town or village Dunu, surrounded with a ditch and
earthen wall in decay, so that the gate had become useless.
There was a large open space inside, and as the inhabitants,
who gave us a very cheerful welcome, advised us not to encamp
outside on account of the number of «vild beasts infesting the
neighborhood, we pitched the tent inside the waU.
We might have passed a very comfortable evening with the
natives, who took great interest in me, had it not been for my
faithful old companion the Bu-Sefi, the best (or, rather, the only
good one) of my three camels, which, when it was growing dark,
and 'Abd-Alla went to bring back the animals from their pas
ture, could not be found. The careless boy had neglected to
fasten the camel's legs, and, being very hungry, it had gone in
search of better herbage. This was a very disagreeable acci
dent for me, as I was in the greatest hurry ; and my two young
lads, who were well aware of it, went for several hours, accom
panied by the inhabitants of the place, in every direction, through
the whole tract where the camels had been grazing, lighting the
ground with torches, but all in vain.
Wearied and exhausted, they returned about midnight, and
lay down to sleep, the music and dance also, which the cheerful
natives had kept up, dying away at the same time. About an
hour later, being too much excited from anxiety to obtain sleep,
I went out once more to see if all was right, when I saw my fa
vorite coming slowly along toward the tent ; and on reaching it,
he lay down by the side of his two inferior companions. There
was no moonlight ; the night was very dark ; evidently only the

THE FAVORITE CAMEL. 567
brightness of the well-known white tent guided the " stupid"
animal. But this was no great proof of stupidity ; and I am
rather afraid that Europeans often make camels stupid by their
own foolish treatment of them, whereas I was wont to treat this
noble animal, which had carried mysetf or the heaviest of my
things aU the way from Tripoli, as a sensible companion, giving it
in the beginning the peel of the oranges I was eating, of which
it was particularly fond, or a few of my dates (for which it did
not fail to turn round its beautiful neck), or granting it a little
extra feed of Negro millet, which it ate like a horse. Bejoiced
at seeing my favorite, the absence of which had created such
anxiety, return of its own accord to my tent, and lying down
near it, I aroused my servant from his sleep to tell him the joy
ful news. I wanted to reward it with some corn, but it had
taken such good care of itself that it refused its favorite food.
I was much grieved in consequence of being obliged to part
with my old companion ; but camels from the coast will not
stand the effects of a rainy season in Negroland. I hoped it
would safely return to its native country ; but the Arab who
bought it from me went first to Kano, when the rainy season
was setting already in, and the poor animal died not far from
the place where Mr. Bichardson had succumbed. Its fidelity
will ever remain in my memory as one of the pleasantest recol
lections of my journey.
Having thus got back our best carrier, though we had lost a
good night's rest, we started early next morning over the same
sort of ground we had been traversing the last few days, and in
two hours reached the little town of Wadi, the noise from which,
caused by the pounding of grain, had been heard by us at the
distance of almost a mile. Indeed, the pounding of grain has
betrayed many a little viUage and many a caravan. The town
is considerable, but properly consists of two different quarters
walled all round, and separated from each other by a wide open
space, where the cattle rest in safety. Approving very much of
this way of building a town in these turbulent regions, we kept
along the open space, but were greatly perplexed from the num
ber of paths branching off in every direction, and scarcely knew
which road to take.

568

TRAVELS EST AFRICA.

It had been my intention originally to go to Borzari, in the
hope of obtaining from the governor of that town a horseman to
carry the news of my approach to the Sheikh of Bornu ; but,
being here informed that I should be obliged to make a great
circuit in order to touch at that place, I changed my plan, and
took another and more direct road, which in the beginning seem
ed a well-trodden high road, but soon became a narrow foot-path,
winding along from village to village without any leading direc
tion. However, we met several small caravans, as well of Ar
abs who were going to Kano, as of native traders or tugur-
chi with natron. Passing now over open, cultivated ground,
then through a bushy thicket, we reached, about ten o'clock in
the morning, the considerable open village Kabowa, where a
weU-frequented and very noisy market was being held, and halt
ed during the heat of the day under a shady tamarind-tree about
five hundred yards to the south, near a " kaudi" or " kabea tseg-
genabe" (a yard for weaving cotton).
We had scarcely unloaded our camels, when, one of the weav
ers came, and, saluting me most cordially, begged me to accept
a dish of very well prepared "fura" or " tiggra," with curdled
milk, which evidently formed their breakfast. The market was
very partially supplied, and did not furnish what we wanted.
Natron, salt, and turkedi, or the cloth for female dress made in
Kano, constituted the three articles which were plentiful ; also a
good many cattle, or, rather, pack-oxen, were there, besides two
camels and abundance of the fruit of the dum-palm ; but meat
was dear, onions extremely scarce, and beans not to be got at
all, and, what was worse, the people refused to accept shells
("kungona"in Kanuri), of which we had still a small supply,
and wanted gabaga, or cotton stripes, of which we had none.
Our camels, therefore, which hereabouts found plenty of their
favorite and nourishing food, the aghiil or Uedysarum Alhaggi,
fared much better than we ourselves. The neighborhood had
rather a dreary aspect ; the east wind was very high and troub
lesome ; the well was distant, and, with a depth of eight fath
oms, did not furnish the supply necessary for the numerous vis
itors to the market.

HOSPITABLE TREATMENT. 569
Early in the afternoon we continued our march, first in the
company of some market-people returning to their native vil
lage, then left to our judgment to discriminate, among the num
berless foot-paths which intersected the country in every direc
tion, the one which was most direct or least circuitous ; for a
direct high road there is none. We became at length so heart
ily tired of groping our way alone, that we attached ourselves
to a horseman who invited us to accompany him to his village,
till, becoming aware that it lay too much out of our way, we as
cended the slope of a sandy ridge to our right, on the summit
of which was situated the village Lushiri, where we pitched our
tent. Here also the inhabitants behaved hospitably ; and I had
scarcely dismounted when a woman from a neighboring hut
brought me a bowl of ghussub-water as a refreshment. We
succeeded also in buying here a good supply of beans and sor
ghum, or ngaberi, as it is called in Kauri ; for my Katsena horse
refused to eat the millet or argum, and sorghum is very scarce
in all this part of the country as well as in many other districts
of Bornu, especially in the district of Koyam. The women of
the viUage, who were very curious to see the interior of my
tent, were greatly surprised to find that I was a bachelor, and
without a female partner, accustomed, as they were, to see trav
elers in this country, at least those tolerably at their ease, with
a train of female slaves. They expressed their astonishment in
much diverting chat with each other. I got also milk and a
fowl for my supper, and the billama afterward brought some
" ngaji" (the favorite Kanuri dish) for my men. As the situa
tion of the viUage was elevated, it was most interesting to see
in the evening the numerous fires of the hamlets and small towns
all around, giving a favorable idea of the local population.
Thursday, March 21th. Early in the morning we continued
our march, but we lost a great deal of time through ignorance
of the direct way. Some of the paths appear, at times, like a
well-frequented high road, when suddenly almost every trace of
them is lost. At length, at the walled town of Gobalgorum, we
learned that we were on the road to Kashimma, and we determ-

570 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ined to keep on as straight as possible. The country which we
traversed early in the morning consisted of stiff, clayey soil, and
produced ngaberi ; but this was only a sort of basin of no great
extent, and the landscape soon changed its character. After
we had passed Gobalgorum the country became much richer in
trees; and this circumstance, as well as the increased number
of water-fowl, indicated plainly that we were approaching a
branch of the wide-spreading net of the komadugu of Bornu.
First we came to a hollow clothed with a great profusion of
vegetation and the freshest pasturage, but at present dry, with
the exception of a fine pond of clear water on our left ; and we
marched full three miles through a dense forest before we came
to the real channel, which here, running south and north, form
ed an uninterrupted belt of water as far as the eye could reach,
but at present without any current. It looked just like an arti
ficial canal, having almost every where the same breadth of
about fifty yards, and, at the place where we crossed it, a depth
of two feet and a half.
We halted, during the heat of the day, on its eastern shore,
in the shade of one of the small gawo-trees which border it on
this side ; and after our dreary and rather uninteresting march
from Kano, I was greatly delighted with the animated and lux
uriant character of the scene before us. The water of this ko
madugu, moreover, though it was fully exposed to the power
of the sun's rays, was delightfully cool, while that from the wells
was disagreeably warm, having a mean temperature of 77°, and
quite unfit to drink until allowed to cool. The river was full
of small fish ; and about twenty boys from the village of Sho-
go, which lay upon the summit of the rising ground before us,
were plashing about in it in playful exercise, and catching the
fish with a large net of peculiar make, which they dragged
through the water. This komadugu, too, is called Wani ; and
I think it more probable that this is the continuation of the
branch which passes Katagum than that the latter joins the
branch of Khadeja to the southward of Zurrikulo.
While we were resting here I was pestered a little by the cu
riosity of a company of gipsy-like Jetko, who, with very little

LOCUSTS AND HAWKS. 57 1
luggage, traverse the country in every direction, and are the
cleverest thieves in the world. I shall, on another occasion,
say something about the settlements of these people along the
komadugu Waube.
A native of the village, whom we had met on the road, came
afterward with his wife, and brought me a dish of well-cooked
hasty-pudding; and on my complaining that, though in great
haste, we were losing so much time, owing to our being unac
quainted with the nearest road, he promised to serve us as a
guide ; but, unfortunately, I made him a present too soon, and
as he did not keep his word, we preferred groping our way on
ward as weU as possible. Our camels had meanwhile got a
good feed in the cool shade of the trees ; for, if exposed to the
sun, these animals wiU not eat during the heat of the day, but
prefer lying down.
With fresh spirit and energy we started, therefore, at half
past two in the afternoon, ascending the considerable slope of
the ridge upon which the village stands. At this hour the sun
was very powerful, and none of the inhabitants were to be seen,
with the exception of an industrious female, who, on a clean,
open spot near the road, was weaving the cotton threads into
gabaga. Opposite the vUlage to the north of the path was a
round cluster of light Kanembu cottages, formed in a most simple
way, with the long stalks of the native corn bent so as to meet
at the top, and fastened with a few ropes. Descending imme
diately from this considerable ridge, we entered a dale thickly
oyergrown with trees, where I was greatly astonished to see a
herd of cattle watered with great trouble from the wells, while
the river was close at hand ; but, on addressing the neat-herds,
I was informed by them that the stagnant water of the koma
dugu at this season is very unwholesome for cattle.
All the trees hereabouts were full of locusts, while the air was
darkened by swarms of hawks {Oenchreis), which, with a singu
lar instinct, followed our steps as we advanced ; for, on our ap
proaching a tree, the locusts, roused from their fatal repose and
destructive reveling, took to flight in thick clouds, when the
birds dashed down to catch them, often not only beating one

572 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
another with their wings, but even incommoding us and our an
imals not a little.
The peculiar character of lofty sandy ridges and thickly over
grown hollows continued also in this district. No dum-palm
was to be seen, but only the dum-bush, called ngille by the
Bornu people. About two miles and a half behind Shogo we
passed a wide and most beautiful basin, with rich pasture-
grounds enlivened by numbers of well-fed cattle. Stubble-
fields, with small granaries such as I have described above,
were scattered about here and there. Then keeping on through
a more level country with patches of cultivation, we reached the
fields of Bandego. The village introduced itself to our notice
from afar by the sound of noisy mirth ; and I was surprised to
hear that it was occasioned by the celebration, not of a marriage,
but of a circumcision. This was the first and last time during
my travels in Negroland that I saw this ceremony performed
with so much noise.
We were quietly pitching our tent on the east side of the
village, and I was about to make myself comfortable, when I
was not a little affected by learning that the girls who had been
bringing little presents to the festival, and who were just return
ing in procession to their homes, belonged to Ngurutuwa, the
very place where the Christian (Mr. Bichardson) had died. I
then determined to accompany them, though it was late, in order
to have at least a short glimpse of the "white man's grave,"
and to see whether it were taken care of. If I had known be
fore we unloaded the camels how near we were to the place, I
should have gone there at once to spend the night.
Ngurutuwa,*' once a large and celebrated place, but at pres
ent somewhat in decay, lies in a wide and extensive plain, with
very few trees, about two miles N.E. from Bandego ; but the
town itself is well shaded, and has, besides korna and htfto,
some wide-spreading, umbrageous fig-trees, under one of which
* Ngurutuwa, properly meaning the place full of hippopotami, is a very com
mon name in Bornu, just as in " Ruoa-n-dorina" (the water of the hippopotami)
is a widespread name given by Hausa travelers to any water which they may
find in the wilderness.

GRAVE OF MR. RICHARDSON. 573
Mr. Eichardson had been buried. His grave, weU protected
by thom-bushes, appeared to have remained untouched, and was
likely to remain so. The natives were well aware that it was a
Christian who had died here, and they regarded the tomb with
reverence. The story of his untimely end had caused some
sensation in the neighborhood. He arrived in a weak state in
the evening, and early the next morning he died. The people
had taken great interest in the matter, and the report they gave
me of the way in which he was buried agreed in the main cir
cumstances with that which I afterward received from his serv
ants, and of which I forwarded an account from Kukawa. Un
fortunately, I had no means of bestowing gifts on the inhabit
ants of the place where my companion had died. I gave, how
ever, a smaU present to a man who promised to take special
care of the grave, and I afterward persuaded the Vizier of Bornu
to have a stronger fence made round it.
It was late in the evening when I returned to my tent, en
grossed with reflections on my own probable fate, and sincerely
thankful to the Almighty Buler of all things for the excellent
health which I still enjoyed, notwithstanding the many fatigues
which I had undergone. My way of looking at things was not
quite the same as that of my late companion, and we had there
fore often had little differences ; but I esteemed him highly for
the deep sympathy which he felt for the sufferings of the native
African, and deeply lamented his death. Full of confidence, I
stretched myself upon my mat, and indulged in my simple sup
per, accompanied with a bowl of milk which the inhabitants of
Bandego had brought me. The people were all pleased with
us ; only the cattle, when returning from their pastures, took
offense at my strange-looking tent, which I had pitched just in
the path by which they were accustomed to return to their us
ual resting-place.
Friday, March 28th. At an early hour we were again on the
march, conducted a little while by an inhabitant of the village,
who undertook to show us the direct road, which passes on its
south side. He represented the road which we were about to
take as much infested by the Kindin or Tawarek at that mo-

574 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
ment, and he advised us, as we went on from one place to anoth
er, to make strict inquiries as to the safety of the road before us.
With this well-meant advice he left us to our own discretion,
and I pursued my way with the unsatisfactory feeling that it
might be again my fate to come into too close contact with my
friends the Tawarek, whom I had been so glad to get rid of.
Saddened with these reflections, my two young companions also
seeming a little oppressed, and trudging silently along with the
camels, we reached Alaune, once a considerable town, but now
almost deserted, and surrounded by a clay wall in a state of
great decay. Accosting the people, who were just drawing wa
ter from the weU inside the wall, and asking them about the
state of the road, we were told that as far as Kashimma it was
safe, but beyond that they pronounced it decidedly dangerous.
We therefore continued our march with more confidence, par
ticularly as we met some market -people coming from Ka
shimma. Alaune is the same place which, by the members of the last
expedition, has been called Kabshari, from the name of the then
governor of the town — Bu-Bakr-Kabshari— after whom the
place is even at present often called "biUa KabshariSe" (the
town of Kabshari). Keeping on through a country partly cul
tivated, partly covered with thick underwood, which was full of
locusts, we were greatly delighted by obtaining, at about eight
o'clock, a view of a fine sheet of water in the dale before us, sur
rounded with a luxuriant vegetation, and descended cheerfuUy
toward its shore, where two magnificent tamarind-trees spread
their canopy-like foliage over a carpet of succulent turf. While
enjoying this beautiful picture, I was about to allow my poor
horse a little feed of the grass, when a woman, who had come to
fetch water, told me that it was very unwholesome.
This is the great komadugu of Bornu, the real name of which
is "komadugu Waube," while, just from the same mistake which
has caused Alaune to be called Kabshari, and the river of Zyr-
mi, Zyrmi, it has been called Yeou ; for, though it may be called
the river of Yeou, or rather of Yo, particularly in its lower
course, where it passes the town of this name, it can never be

THE JUNGLES OF THE KOMA'DUGU. 575
called "the river Y6," any more than the Thames, on account
of its flowing through London, can be called the river London.
While ordering 'Abd-Alla to follow with the camels along the
lower road, I ascended with Mohammed the steep slope of the
sandy swell, rising to about three hundred feet, on the top of
which Kashimma is situated, in a fine, healthy situation, com
manding the whole vaUey. It is an open place, consisting en
tirely of huts made of corn-stalks and reeds, but is of consider
able size and weU inhabited. However, I was not disposed to
make any halt here; and learning, to my great satisfaction, that
no Kindin had been seen as far as the Eastern Ngurutuwa, I
determined to go on as fast as possible, and persuaded a net-
maker to point out clearly to me the road which we were to
take; for we had now rather difficult ground before us — the
wide bottom of the valley, with its thick forest and its several
watery channels.
The path led us gradually down from the eminence upon
which Kashimma is situated into the bushy dale with a great
quantity of ngille, and also a few dum-palms. Here we saw
numerous footprints of the elephant, and some of enormous
size ; and truly the wanderer can not be surprised that this co
lossal animal has taken possession of these beautiful, luxuriant
shores of the komadugu, from which the native, in his inborn
laziness, has despairingly retired, and allowed them to be con
verted into an almost impenetrable jungle. The thicket became
for a while very dense, a real jungle, such as I had not yet seen
in Negroland, when a clearer spot followed, overgrown with tall
coarse grass ten feet high, fed by the water which, after the rainy
season, covers the whole of this low ground, and offering a rich
pasture to the elephant. Then we had to traverse a branch of
the real komadugu, at present very shallow, but at times to be
crossed only with the aid of a " makara." In the thick covert
which bordered upon this channel the dum-palm was entirely
predominant. Though the thicket was here so dense, the path was well trod
den, but as soon as we reached a place which had been cleared
for cultivation we lost all traces of it, and then turned off to our

576 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
right, where we saw a small vUlage and a farm situated in the
most retired spot imaginable. Here we found a cheerful old
man, the master of the farm, who, on hearing that we too were
going eastward, begged us, very urgently, to spend the remain
der of the day in his company, adding that he would treat us
weU and start early the next morning with us for Ngurutuwa ;
but, however delightful it might appear to me to dream away
half a day in this wilderness, my anxiety to reach Kukawa
compelled me to reject his proposal. However, the thicket be
came so dense that we had the utmost difficulty in getting my
bulky luggage through it.
Having made a short halt about noon to refresh ourselves and
our animals, we continued our march through the forest, which
here consisted principally of dum-palms, far'aon, kalgo, talha-
trees, and a little siwak or Capparis sodata. The ground was
covered with the heavy footprints of the elephant, and even at
this season it retained many ponds in the channel-like hollows.
A solitary maraya or mohhor {Antilope Soemmeringii) bound
ed through the thicket ; indeed, antelopes of any species are rare
in these quarters, and on the whole road I had seen but a sin
gle gazelle, near the village Diggere-bare. But it seems re
markable that, from the description of the natives, there can not
be the least doubt that that large and majestic variety of ante
lope called addax, which is very much like a large stag, is occa
sionally found here. A fine open space, with rich pastures and
with hurdle-inclosures, interrupted the thicket for about a mile,
after which we had to traverse another thick covert, and, emerg
ing from it, were agreeably surprised at beholding a lake of con
siderable dimensions on our left, and after a short interval an
other still more considerable approaching from the north and
turning eastward, its surface furrowed by the wind, and hurry
ing along in little billows which dashed upon the shore. On
its eastern side lie the ruins of the celebrated town Ghambaru, -
which, although not the official residence of the kings of Bornu,
was nevertheless their favorite retreat during the flourishing pe
riod of the empire ; and those two lakes, although connected with
the komadugu and fed by it, were artificial basins, and seem to

GHA'MBARU'. 577
have considerable depth, else they could scarcely have presented
such a magnificent sheet of water at this season of the year.
But at present aU this district, the finest land of Bornu in the
proper sense of the word, which once resounded with the voices
and bustle of hundreds of towns and villages, has become one
impenetrable jungle, the domain of the elephant and the lion,
and with no human inhabitants except a few scattered herds
men and cattle-breeders, who are exposed every moment to the
predatory inroads of the Tawarek. This condition of the finest
part of the country is a disgrace to its present rulers, who have
nothing to do but to transfer hither a few hundreds of their lazy
slaves, and establish them in a fortified place, whereupon the
natives would immediately gather round them and change this
fine country along the komadugu from an impenetrable jungle
into rich fields, producing not only grain, but also immense
quantities of cotton and indigo.
The town of Ghambaru was taken and destroyed by the Je-
ma'a of the Fulbe or Fellata at the same time with Ghasreggo-
mo, or Birni, in the year of the Hejra 1224, or 1809 of our era,
and has not been since reoccupied, so that the ruins are thickly
overgrown and almost enveloped in the forest. Although I
had not leisure to survey attentively the whole area of the town,
I could not help dismounting and looking with great interest
at a tolerably weU preserved buUding, evidently part of a mosque,
at the southeastern corner of the wall. I knew from the report
of the last expedition that there were here remains of brick
buildings, but I did not expect to find the workmanship so
good. The bricks are certainly not so regularly shaped as in
Europe, but in other respects they seemed quite as good. It is,
indeed, a source of mournful reflection for the traveler to com
pare this solid mode of building practiced in former times in
this country, at least by its rulers, with the fraU and ephemeral
architecture of the present day ; but this impression of retro
grading power and resources is caused also by the history of
the country, which we shall soon lay before our readers. Even
in the half-barbarous country of Bagirmi we may still find the
remains of very extensive brick buildings.
Vol. I._ 0 o

578

TRAVELS EST AFRICA.

i Overtaking the two young companions of my adventurous
journey, I traveled on through an interesting but wild country,
when at five o'clock in the afternoon a branch of the river once
more approached on our left, and soon cut across our path, leav
ing no trace of it. I felt sure that the track crossed the river
here, but unfortunately allowed myself to be overruled by my
servant (who was, in truth, an experienced lad), and according
ly we kept along the sandy borders of the channel, following
the traces of cattle till we became assured that there was no
path. in this place. Having searched for about two hours, wc
were at last compelled, by the darkness which had set in, to
encamp in the midst of this dense forest, and I chose a small
hillock on the border of the river, in order to protect myself as
well as possible from the noxious exhalations, and spread my
tent over my luggage, in the midst of which I arranged my bed.
I then strewed, in a circle round our little encampment, dry
wood and other fuel, to be kindled in case of an attack of wild
beasts, and, taking out a parcel of cartridges, prepared for the
worst. However, we passed a quiet night, disturbed only by
the roaring of a lion on the other side of the river, and by a
countless multitude of water-fowl of various species, playing and
splashing about in the water the whole night.
Saturday, March 29th. Having convinced myself that the
river could be crossed by the path only at the place where we
firsf. came upon it, I mounted early in the morning, after we had
loaded the camels, and returned to that spot, when, having cross
ed the stream, I found the continuation of the path on the other
side. At length we were again en route, having lost altogether
about three hours of our precious time. However, my compan
ions thought that nevertheless we should not have been able
the previous evening, in the twilight, to reach the next station,
the name of which is also Ngurutuwa, so dense was the forest
in some places, and such difficulty had we in getting through
with our luggage, so that we were at times almost reduced to
despair. Beyond the village mentioned we should not have succeeded
in finding an outlet had we not met with some shepherds, who

MI'KIBA'.

579

were tending numerous flocks of sheep and goats. All was one
thorny covert, where kana and birgim, the African plum-tree,
were, together with mimosa, the predominant trees. Near the
village, however, which lies in the midst of the forest, very fine
fields of wheat occupied a considerable open space, the corn
standing now about a foot and a half high, and presented a
most charming sight, particularly when compared with the scan
ty industry which we had hitherto observed in this, the finest
part of the country.
Keeping then close to the narrow path, we reached, half an
hour before noon, an open place of middle size called Mikiba,
and halted between the village and the well, which, being in a
hollow, is only three fathoms deep. Being obliged to allow the
camels a good feed, as they had got nothing the previous even
ing, we did not start again till four o'clock in the afternoon, and
it was in vain that I endeavored to buy some provisions from
the inhabitants with the few indifferent articles which I had to
offer them ; the smaU fancy wares of Nuremberg manufacture
proved too worthless and frail even for these barbarians. The
people, however, endeavored to frighten us by their accounts of
the roads before us ; and, indeed, as it afterward appeared, they
were not quite wrong ; but we could not stay a night with peo
ple so inhospitable, and, besides, I had lost already too much
time. Confiding, therefore, in my good luck, I was again in the sad
dle by four o'clock, the country being now clearer of wood,
though generally in a wild, neglected state. After a little more
than two miles' march, near a patch of cultivated ground I saw
a group of three monkeys, of the same species, apparently, as
those in A'sben. In general, monkeys seem not to be frequent
in the inhabited parts of Negroland. The day, with its bright
ness, was already fading away, and darkness setting in filled us
with anxiety as to where we might pass the night with some se
curity, when, to our great delight, we observed in the distance
to our right the light of some fires glittering through a thicket
of dum-palms, tamarinds, and other large trees. We endeavor
ed, therefore, to open a path to them, cheered in our effort by

580 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the pleasing sound of dance and song which came from the same
direction. It proved to be a wandering company of happy herdsmen,
who bade us a hearty welcome after they had recognized us as
harmless travelers ; and, weU satisfied at seeing our resolution
thus rewarded, we pitched our tent in the midst of their huts
and numerous herds. Entering then into conversation with
them, I learned, to my astonishment, that they were neither Ka
nuri nor Hausa people, but Fellata, or Fulbe of the tribe of the
O'bore,* who, notwithstanding the enmity existing between
their kinsmen and the ruler of Bornu, are allowed to pasture
their herds here in full security, so far as they are able to de
fend themselves against the robberies of the Tawarek, and with
out even paying any tribute to the sheikh. However, their im
migration into this country does not date from very ancient
times ; and they appear not to have kept their stock pure from
intermixture, so that they have lost almost aU the national marks
of the Fulfulde race.
They seemed to be in easy circumstances, the elder men
bringing me each of them an immense bowl of milk, and a little
fresh butter as cleanly prepared as in any English or Swiss
dairy. This was a substantial proof of their nationality ; for
all over Bornu no butter is prepared except with the dirty and
disgusting addition of some cow's urine, and it is all in a fluid
state. The hospitable donors were greatly deUghted when I
gave to each of them a sailor's knife ; but, on our part, we were
rather perplexed by their bounty, as I and my two boys might
easriy have drowned ourselves in such a quantity of milk.
MeanwhUe, as I was chatting with the old people, the younger
ones continued their singing and dancing tiU a late hour with a
perseverance most amusing, though little favorable for our night's
rest ; moreover, we were startled several times by some of the
* The name looks rather strange to me, a tribe of the Fulbe of this name not
having otherwise come to my knowledge ; and I am almost inclined to think that
these poor herdsmen, separated from their kinsmen, have corrupted the name
originally U'rube. The O'bore, however, are even known at present in other
parts of the kingdom, and were met with by Mr. Overweg on his journey to Gii-
jeba.

FORD OF THE KOMA'DUGU. 581
cattle, which lay close to our tent, starting up occasionaUy and
running furiously about. There was a lion very near, but the
blaze of the fires kept him off. Our friends did not possess a
single dog ; but this was another mark of nationality ; they
rely entirely upon their own watchfulness.
In consequence of our disturbed night's rest, we set out at
rather a late hour, accompanied by two of our friends, in order
to show us the ford of the komadugu, which, they told us, ran
close to their encampment. And it was well that we had their
assistance ; for, though the water was but three feet deep at the
spot where they led us through, it was much deeper on both
sides, and we might easily have met with an accident. It was
here about five-and-thirty yards across, and was quite stagnant.
It is doubtless the same water which I had crossed at Kashim
ma, where, with its several branches, it occupied an immense
valley, and again just before I came to the Eastern Ngurutuwa.
Our hospitable friends did not leave us till they had assisted
us through the extremely dense covert which borders the east
ern bank of the river. They then returned, recommending us
very strongly to be on our guard, as we should have the koma
dugu always on our left, where some robbers were generally lurk
ing. We had not proceeded far when we met an archer on
horseback foUowing the traces of a band of Tawarek, who, as
he told us, had last night made an attack upon another encamp
ment or viUage of herdsmen, but had been beaten off. He pur
sued his way in order to make out whether the robbers had
withdrawn. An archer on horseback is an unheard-of thing not
only in Bornu, but in almost all Negroland, except with the
Fulbe ; but even among them it is rare. Fortunately, the coun
try was here tolerably open, so that we could not be taken by
surprise, and we were greatly reassured when we met a troop of
native travelers, three of whom were carrying each a pair of
bukhsa or ngibii, immense calabashes joined at the bottom by
a piece of strong wood, but open on the top.
These are the simple ferry-boats of the country, capable of
carrying one or two persons, who have nothing besides their
clothes (which they may deposit inside the calabashes), safely,

582 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
but certainly not dryly across a stream. In order to transport
heavier things, three pairs, joined in the way I shall have an
opportunity of describing at another time, will form a sufficient
ly buoyant raft. This would form the most useful expedient
for any European traveler who should undertake to penetrate
into the equatorial regions, which abound in water ; but if he
has much luggage, he ought to have four pairs of calabashes,
and a strong frame to extend across them.
The great advantage of such a portable boat is that the parts
can be most easily carried on men's backs through the most
rugged and mountainous regions, while the raft so formed will
be strong enough, if the parts are well fastened together, for go
ing down a river ; but, of course, if they came into contact with
rocks, the calabashes would be liable to break. Horses must
swim across a river in these countries ; but even their crossing
a powerful stream safely would be greatly facilitated if they
were protected against the current by such a float lying along
their sides. On my succeeding journeys I often wished to be
in the possession of such a boat.
Amusing myseH with such thoughts, and indulging in happy
anticipations of future discoveries, I continued my solitary march
cheerfully and with confidence! To our left the channel of the
komadugu once approached, but soon receded again, and gave
way to the site of a considerable deserted town, containing at
present but a small hamlet of cattle-breeders, and called signifi
cantly " fata ghana" (few huts). The country was here adorn
ed with trees of fine foliage, and was enlivened besides by large
flocks of goats and sheep, and by a small caravan which we fell
in with. We then passed, on our right, a considerable pool of
stagnant water, apparently caused by the overflowing of the ko
madugu, and farther on observed a few patches of cotton-ground
well fenced and protected from the cattle. Then followed stub
ble-fields adorned with fine trees, in the shade of which the cat
tle reposed in animated groups. The soil consisted of sand,
and was burrowed throughout in large holes by the earth-hog
{Orycteropus ^Ethiopicus).
Thus about half past ten we reached the neat little viUage

KHEE-A'LLA, THE SLAVE VIZIER. 533
A'jiri, and encamped at a short distance from it, under a cluster
of beautiful and shady tamarind-trees, not knowing that, as the
cemetery of some venerated persons, it was a sanctified place ;
however, on being informed of this circumstance, we were care
ful not to pollute it. I now learned that I had not followed the
shortest track to Kukawa, which passes by Kamsandi, but that
Yusuf (Mr. Bichardson's interpreter), with the Christian's prop
erty, had also taken this road. I might, therefore, have pur
sued my journey directly to that residence, and should have
had the company of a corn-caravan, which was about to set for
ward in the afternoon ; but as it was absolutely necessary that
I should send word to the sheikh that I was coming, and as
there was no other governor or officer on the track before me
from whom I might obtain a decent and trustworthy messen
ger, I preferred going a Httle more out of my way in order to
visit the Kashella Kher-Alla, an officer stationed by the sheikh
in the most exposed place of this district, in order to protect it
against the inroads of the Tawarek.
Having, therefore, taken a hearty leave of the villagers, who
had aU coUected round me, listening with astonishment and de
light to the performance of my musical box, I started again at
an early hour in the afternoon, accompanied for a little while by
the billama, and continuing in a northeasterly direction. The
country in general presented nothing but pasture-grounds, with
only some cultivation of grain and patches of cotton-fields near
the hamlet Yeralla, which, after a little more than three miles,
we passed on our left. Farther on the komadugu again ap
proached on the same side, and we were obliged to go round it
in a sharp angle to reach the village where the Kashella had his
residence. Having pitched the tent, I went to pay him my compliments,
and had the satisfaction to find him a friendly, cheerful per
son, who at once ordered one of his best men to mount and to
start for Kukawa, in order to carry to the vizier the news of my
arrival. He is a Hberated slave, who, having distinguished
himself by his valor in the unfortunate battle at Kusuri, has
been stationed here at the vizier's suggestion. His power, how-

584 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
ever, is not great, considering the wide extent of district which
he has to protect, as he has only seventy horsemen under his
command, twenty of whom are constantly employed in watch
ing the motions of the predatory bands of the Tawarek. These
are chiefly the inhabitants of the little principality of Alakkos,
of which I had occasion to speak above, who, like all the Ta
warek, in general are not very fond of serious fighting, but rath
er try to carry off a good booty, in slaves or cattle, by surprise.
Kher-Alla has already done a great deal for the security and
welfare of the district where he resides, the population of which
is intermixed with Tebu elements, and can not be trusted ; but
he evidently can not extend his protecting hand much farther
westward than A'jiri.
Feehng deeply the disgraceful state of this, the finest portion
of Bornu, I afterward advised the vizier to buUd watch-towers
all along the komadugu, from the town Yo as far as the West
ern Ngurutuwa, the place where Mr. Bichardson died, which
would make it easy to keep off the sudden inroads of those
predatory tribes, and, in consequence, the whole country would
become the secure abode of a numerous population ; but even
the best of these mighty men cares more for the sUver orna
ments of his numerous wives than for the welfare of his people.
I presented Kher-Alla with a red cap, a pair of English scis
sors, and some other" small things ; and he spent the whole even
ing in my tent, listening with delight to the cheerful Swiss air
played by my musical box.
Monday, March 31st. At a tolerably early hour I set out to
continue my march, accompanied by a younger brother and a
trusty servant of the kashella, both on horseback, and trav
ersed the entire district. It is called Duchi, and is weU inhab
ited in a great number of widely-scattered villages. The soil
is sandy, and corn-fields and pasture-grounds succeed each other
alternately ; but I did not see much cattle. I was astonished,
also, to find so little cultivation of cotton. Having met a small
troop of tugiirchi with pack-oxen, we made a halt, a little after
eleven o'clock, near the first village of the district, Dimberwa.
My two companions wanted to obtain here a guide for me, but

CHANGING GUIDES.— U'RA. 535
were unsuccessful ; however, after we had started again at three
o'clock, they procured a man from the billama of the next village,
and then left me. I wished to obtain a guide to conduct me at
once to Kukawa ; but I was obliged to submit to this arrange
ment though nothing is more tedious and wearisome than to be
obliged to change the guide at every little place, particularly if
a traveler be in a hurry. It might be inferred, from the num
ber of little paths crossing each other in every direction, that
the country is thickly inhabited, and a considerable troop of
tugurchi gave proof of some intercourse. Dark-colored, swampy
ground, caUed "ange," at times interrupted the sandy soil,
which was covered with fine pasture ; and we gradually ascend
ed a little. I had already changed my guide four times, when,
after some trouble, I obtained another at the village Gusumri ;
but the former guide had scarcely turned his back when his
successor in office decamped, most probably in order not to miss
his supper, and, after some useless threatening, I had again to
grope my way onward as well as I could. Darkness was al
ready setting in when I encamped near the village Baggem,
where I was treated hospitably by the inhabitants of the near
est cottage.
Tuesday, April 1st. Keeping through an open country with
sandy soil and good pasture, we reached, a little after nine
o'clock, the weU of U'ra, a viUage lying at some distance to the
left of the path, and here filled a water-skin, and watered the
horse ; but, hurrying on as we were, perhaps we did not allow
the poor beast sufficient time to fill his stomach. Having then
marched on through an open country, where large trees cease
altogether, only detached clusters of bushes appearing here and
there, and where we saw a large herd of ostriches and a troop
of gazelles, we halted a Httle before noon in the scanty shade of
a small Balanites.
About two o'clock in the afternoon, after man and beast had
enjoyed a Httle repose and food, we prepared to continue our
march ; and my horse was already saddled, my bernus hanging
over the saddle, when I perceived that my two youngsters could
not manage our swift and capricious she-camel, and that, hav-

586 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
ing escaped from their hands, although her fore legs were tied
together, she baffled all their efforts to catch her again. Con
fiding, therefore, in the staid and obedient disposition of my
horse, I ran to assist them, and we at length succeeded in catch
ing the camel ; but when I returned to the place where I had
left my horse, it was gone, and it was with some difficulty that
we found its tracks, showing that it had returned in the direc
tion whence we had come. It had strayed nearly as far as the
well of U'ra, when it was most fortunately stopped by some
musketeers marching to Kukawa, who met my boy when he had
already gone half way in pursuit of it.
In consequence of this contretemps, it was five o'clock when
we again set out on our march ; and, in order to retrieve the
lost time, I kept steadily on till half an hour before midnight.
At seven o'clock we passed a considerable village called Buwa,
where the troops, horse and foot, which had passed us some
time before, had taken up their quarters, and two miles farther
on we had villages on our right and left ; but still there were
few signs of population, probably because, owing to the lateness
of the hour, the fires were extinguished. We encamped at
length near a small village, but had reason to repent our choice ;
for, while we were unable to procure a drop of water, the inhab
itants being obliged to bring their supply from a considerable
distance, we were annoyed the whole night by a violent quarrel
between a man and his two wives. But here I must remark
that I very rarely witnessed such disgusting scenes during the
whole of my travels in Negroland.

FERTILE HOLLOWS. 537

CHAPTEB XXVIII.
ARRIVAL IN KUKAWA.
Wednesday, April 2d. This was to be a most momentous
day of my travels ; for I was to reach that place which was the
first distinct object of our mission, and I was to come into con
tact with those people on whose ill or good wiU depended the
whole success of our mission.
Although encamped late at night, we were again up at an
early hour ; but in endeavoring to return to the track which we
had left the preceding night, we inadvertently crossed it, and
so came to another village, with a very numerous herd of cat
tle, where we became aware of our error, and then had to regain
the main road.
Two miles afterward there was a very great change in the
character of the countiy ; for the sandy soil which had charac
terized the district aU along the komadugu now gave way to
clay, where water is only met with at considerable depth.
We met a troop of tugurchi, who informed us that none of the
villages along our track at the present moment had a supply of
water, not even the considerable village Kangaruwa, but that at
the never-failing weU of Besher I should be able to water my
horse. This news only served to confirm me in my resolution
to ride on in advance, in order as well to water my poor beast
before the greatest heat of the day, as to reach the residence in
good time.
I therefore took leave of my two young servants, and, giving
Mohammed strict orders to follow me with the camels as fast as
possible, I hastened on. The wooded level became now inter
rupted from time to time by bare naked concavities or shallow
hollows, consisting of black sedimentary soil, where, during the
rainy season, the water collects, and, drying up gradually, leaves
a most fertile sediment for the cultivation of the masakwa. This

588 TRAVELS TN AFRICA.
is a peculiar kind of holcus {Holcus cernuus), which forms a very
important article in the agriculture of Bornu. Sown soon after
the end of the rainy season, it grows up entirely by the fructi
fying power of the soil, and ripens with the assistance only of
the abundant dews, which fall here usuaUy in the months fol
lowing the rainy season. These hollows, which are the most
characteristic natural feature in the whole country, and which
encompass the southwestern corner of the great lagune of Cen
tral Africa throughout a distance of more than sixty miles from
its present shore, are caUed "ghadir"by the Ai'abs, "firki" or
" ange" by the Kanuri. Indeed, they amply testify to the far
greater extent of the lagoon in the ante-historical times.
Pushing on through a country of this description, and pass
ing several villages, I reached about noon Besher, a group of
villages scattered over the corn-fields, where numerous horsemen
of the sheikh were quartered ; and, being unable myself to find
the-weU, I made a bargain with one of the people to water my
horse, for which he exacted from me forty "kungona"or cow
ries. However, when I had squatted down for a moment's rest
in the shade of a small talha-tree, his wife, who had been look
ing on, began to reprove him for driving so hard a bargain with
a young, inexperienced stranger ; and then she brought me a lit
tle tiggra and curdled milk diluted with water, and afterward
some ngaji or paste of sorghum.
Having thus recruited my strength, I continued my march ;
but my horse, not having fared so well, was nearly exhausted.
The heat was intense, and therefore we proceeded but slowly
till I reached KalUwa, when I began seriously to reflect on my
situation, which was very peculiar. I was now approaching the
residence of the chief whom the mission, of which I had the hon
or to form part, was especiaUy sent out to salute — in a very poor
plight, without resources of any kind, and left entirely by my
self, owing to the death of the director. I was close to this
place, a large town, and was about to enter it without a single
companion. The heat being just at its highest, no living being
was to be seen either in the village or on the road ; and I hesi
tated a moment, considering whether it would not be better to

ENTRANCE INTO KU'KAWA. 59 \
wait here for my camels. But my timid reluctance being con
founded by the thought that my people might be far behind,
and that, if I waited for them, we should find no quarters pre
pared for us, I spurred on my nag, and soon reached the west
ern suburb of Kukawa.
^Proceeding with some hesitation toward the white clay wall
which encircles the town, and which, from a little distance, could
scarcely be distinguished from the adjoining ground, I entered
the gate, being gazed at by a number of people collected here,
and who were still more surprised when I inquired for the resi
dence of the sheikh. Then, passing the little daily market (the
dyrriya), which was crowded with people, I rode along the den-
dal, or promenade, straight up to the palace, which borders the
promenade toward the east. It is flanked by a very indifferent
mosque, bmlt likewise of clay, with a tower at its N.W. corner,
while houses of grandees inclose the place on the north and
south sides. The only ornament of this place is a fine chedia
or caoutchouc-tree in front of the house of 'AH Ladan, on the
south side ; but occasionally it becomes enlivened by interest-
ingigroups of Arabs and native courtiers in all the finery of
then- dress and of their richly-caparisoned horses.
" The sheikh, though he usually resides in his palace in the
eastern town, was at present here ; and the slaves stared at me,
without understanding, or caring to understand, what I wanted,
until Diggama, the store-keeper, was called, who, knowing some
thing of me as 'Abd el Kerim, ordered a slave to conduct me to
the vizier. Though I had heard some account of the sheikh
living out of the western town, I was rather taken by surprise
at seeing the large extent of the double town, and I was equal-
;^,astonished at the number of gorgeously-dressed horsemen
whom I met on my way.
Considering my circumstances, I could not have chosen a
more: favorable moment for arriving. About two hundred horse
men were assembled before the house of the vizier, who was just
about to mount his horse in order to pay his daily visit to the
sheikh. When he came out, he saluted me in a very cheerful
way, and was highly delighted when he heard and saw that I

592 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
had come quite alone. He told me that he had known me al
ready from the letter which I had sent to his agent in Zinder,
stating that I would come after I had finished my business, but
not before. While he himself rode in great state to the sheikh,
he ordered one of his people to show me my quarters. These
were closely adjoining the vizier's house, consisting of two im
mense court-yards, the more secluded of which inclosed, besides
a half-finished clay dwelling, a very spacious and neatly-built
hut. This, as I was told, had been expressly prepared for the
mission before it was known that we were without means.
I had scarcely taken possession of my quarters when I re
ceived several visits from various parties attached to the mis
sion, who all at once made me quite au fait of all the circum
stances of my not very enviable situation as one of its surviving
members. The first person who called upon me was Ibrahim,
the carpenter, who, at Mr. Bichardson's request, had been sent
up from Tripoli, at the monthly salary of twenty mahbubs, be
sides a sum of four dollars for his maintenance. He was cer
tainly a handsome young man, about twenty-two years of age,
a native of the " holy house" (Bet el mogaddus) or Jerusalem,
with big sounding phrases in his mouth, and quite satisfied to
return with me directly to Fezzan without having done any
thing. Then came his more experienced and cheerful compan
ion, 'Abd e' Bahman, a real sailor, who was not so loud in his
clamors, but urged more distinctly the payment of his salary,
which was equal to that of Ibrahim.
After I had consoled these dear friends, and assured them
that I had no idea at present of returning northward, and that
I should do my best to find the means of satisfying the most
urgent of their claims, there arrived another of the bloodsuckers
of the mission, and the most thirsty of them all. It was my
colleague, the bibulous Yusuf, son of Mukni, the former governor
of Fezzan, accompanied by Mohammed ben Bu-S'ad, whom Mr.
Eichardson, when he discharged Yusuf in Zinder, had taken into
his service in his stead, and by Mohammed ben Habib, the least
serviceable of Mr. Bichardson's former servants. Yusuf was
mounted upon a fine horse, and most splendidly dressed ; but

SERVANTS OF THE MISSION.— NO FUNDS. 593
he was extremely gracious and condescending, as he entertained
the hope that my boxes and bags, which had just arrived with
my faithful Gatroni, were full of shells, and that I should be able
to pay his salary at once. He was greatly puzzled when I in
formed him of my extreme poverty. Mr. Bichardson's other
servants, to my great regret, had gone off the day before, unpaid
as they were, in order to regain their various homes.
I now ascertained that the pay due to Mr. Bichardson's serv
ants amounted to more than three hundred dollars ; besides
vvhich there was the indefinite debt of the Sfaksi, amounting in
reality to twelve hundred and seventy dollars, but which, by the
form in which the bill had been given, might easily be doubled.
I did not possess a single dollar, a single bernus, nor any thing
of value, and, moreover, was informed by my friends that I should
be expected to make both to the sheikh and to the vizier a hand-
, some present of my own. I now saw also that what the Sherif
el Habib had told me on the road (viz., that all Mr. Bichard
son's things had been divided and squandered) was not alto
gether untrue. At least, they had been deposited with the viz
ier on very uncertain conditions, or rather had been delivered
up to him by the two interpreters of our late companion, inti
mating to him that I and Mr. Overweg were quite subordinate
people attached to the mission, and that we had no right to in
terfere in the matter.
Seeing how matters stood, I thought it best, in order to put
a stop to the intrigues which had been set a going, to take Mo
hammed ben S'ad into my service on the same salary which he
had received from Mr. Eichardson. Besides, I pledged my word
to all that they should each receive what was due to him, only
regretting that the rest of Mr. Bichardson's people had already
gone away.
After all these communications, fraught with oppressive anx
iety, I received a most splendid supper as well from the sheikh
as from the vizier, and, after the varied exertions of the day, en
joyed a quiet night's rest in my clean cottage.
Thus strengthened, I went the next morning to pay my re
spects to the vizier, taking with me a smaU present of my own,
Vol. I.— p p

594 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
the principal attractions of which lay in a thick twisted lace of
silk, of very handsome workmanship, which I had had made in
Tripoli,, and a leathern letter-case of red color, which I had
brought with me from Europe. Destitute as I was of any
meanSf and not quite sure as yet whether her Britannic majes
ty's government would authorize me to carry out the objects of
the mission, I did not deem it expedient to assume too much im
portance, but simply told the vizier that, though the director of
the mission had not been fortunate enough to convey to him
and the sheikh with his own mouth the sentiments of the Brit
ish government, yet I hoped that, even in this respect, these en
deavors would not be quite in vain, although at the present mo
ment our means were so exhausted that, even for executing our
scientific plans^ we were entirely dependent on their kindness.
The same reserve I maintained in my interview with the
sheikh on the morning of Friday, when I laid little stress upon
the object of our mission (to obtain security of commerce for
English merchants), thinking it better to leave this to time, but
otherwise dwelling upon the friendship estabhshed between the
sheikh's father and the English, and representing to them that,
relying upon this manifestation of their friendly disposition, we
had come without reserve to live a while among them, and un
der their protection, and with their assistance, to obtain an in
sight into this part of the world, which appeared so strange in
our eyes. Our conversation was quite free from constraint or
reserve, as nobody was present besides the sheikh and the
vizier. I found the sheikh ('Omar, the eldest son of Mohammed el
Amin el Kanemy) a very simple, benevolent, and even cheerful
man. He has regular and agreeable features, rather a little too
round to be expressive ; but he is remarkably black — a real
glossy black, such as is rarely seen in Bornu, and which he has
inherited undoubtedly from his mother, a Bagirmaye princess.
He was very simply dressed in a light tobe, having a bernus
negligently wrapped round his shoulder ; round his head a dark
red shawl was twisted with great care ; and his face was quite
uncovered, which surprised me not a little, as his father used to

MR. RICHARDSON'S PROPERTY. 595
cover it in the Tawarek fashion. He was reclining upon a di
van covered with a carpet, at the back of a fine, airy hall neatly
polished. My presents were very smaU, the only valuable article among
them being a nice little copy of the Kuran, which on a former
occasion I had bought in Egypt for five pounds sterling, and
was now carrying with me ior my own use. That I made a
present of this book to the prince may perhaps be regarded with
an unfavorable eye by some persons in this country ; but let
them consider it as a sign of an unprejudiced mind, and of the
very high esteem in which he held me, that, although knowing me
to be a Christian, he did not refuse to accept from my hands that
which was most holy in his eyes. On the whole, I could not
have expected a more friendly reception, either from the sheikh
or from his vizier. But there was a very delicate point which
I was obliged to touch upon : what was to become of Mr. Bich
ardson's property ?
In the afternoon I went again to the vizier, and requested to
see the inventory of aU that my late companion had left, and he
showed it to me and read it himself. He then ordered the box
to be opened, which contained clothes and papers ; and I was
glad to see that not only the journals, upon the keeping of which
Mr. Eichardson had bestowed great care, but also all his other
collectanea, were safe. Having taken the inventory with me, I
sent Mohammed the foUowing day to him with the request that
Mr. Bichardson's property should be delivered to me. Having
been desired to call myself at noon, I went, but was surprised
to find only Lamino (properly El Amin), the vizier's confiden
tial officer, of whom I shaU have occasion to speak hereafter.
I was still more surprised when only some of Mr. Bichardson's
boxes were brought in, and I was desired to select what I wants-
ed, and leave the rest behind. This I refused, to do, and asked
where the other things were, when Lamino did not hesitate to
declare that the ornamented gun and the handsome pair of pis
tols had been sold. Upon hearing this, though I had been
treated very kindly and hospitably on my arrival, and had re
ceived immense quantities of provision of every kind, I could

596 TRAVELS LN AFRICA.
not refrain from declaring that if in truth they had behaved so
unscrupulously with other people's property, I had nothing more
to do here, and returned to my quarters immediately.
My firmness had its desired effect ; and late in the evening I
received a message from the vizier, that if I wanted to have a
private interview with him I might come now, as during the
daytime he was always troubled by the presence of a great
many people. The person who brought me this message was
Haj Edris, a man of whom, in the course of my proceedings, I
shall have to speak repeatedly. Satisfied with having an op
portunity of conversing with the vizier without reserve, I fol
lowed the messenger immediately, and found Haj Beshir quite
alone, sitting in an inner court of his house, with two smaU wax
candles by his side. We then had a long interview, which last
ed tiU midnight, and the result of which was that I protested
formaUy against the sale of those things left by Mr. Eichardson,
and insisted that aU should be delivered to me and to Mr. Over
weg as soon as he should arrive, when we would present to the
sheikh and to the vizier, in a formal manner, aU those articles
which we knew our companion had intended to give to them.
Besides, I urged once more the necessity of forwarding the news
of Mr. Bichardson's death, and of my safe arrival, as soon as
possible, as, after our late misfortunes in Air, her Britannic maj
esty's government, as well as our friends, would be most anx
ious about our safety. I likewise tried to persuade my benev
olent and inteUigent host that he might do a great service to the
mission if he would enable us to carry out part of our scientific
purposes without delay, as government would certainly not fail
to honor us with their confidence if they saw that we were going
on. Having carried aU my points, and being promised protec
tion and assistance to the widest extent, I indulged in a more
friendly chat, and, delighted by the social character of my host,
and fuU of the most confident hopes for my future proceedings,
withdrew a little after midnight.
Having in this way vindicated the honorable character of the
mission and my own, I applied myself with more cheerfulness
to my studies and inquiries, for which I found ample opportu-

HOSPITALITY OF THE VIZIER. 597
nity ; for many distinguished personages from distant countries
were staying here at this time, partly on their journey to and
from Mekka, partly only attracted by the fame of the vizier's
hospitable and bounteous character. But, before I give any ac
count of my stay in Kukawa previous to my setting out for
Adamawa, I think it weU to try to impart to the reader a more
lively interest in the country to which he has thus been trans
ferred, by laying before him a short account of its history, as I
have been able to make it out from original documents and from
oral information.

APPENDIX.

I. — Route from A'gades to Sokoto.
Day. 1st. Leaving A'gades in the afternoon, you encamp in the valley called U'leye,
where there is a well.
2d. Kerbub, a valley with water in the sand ; start at daj'break, arrive after
sunset.
3d. A'azeru; arrive at sunset, having started before daylight. The whole
ground traveled over is covered with pebbles, and now and then with a
little sand.
4th. Teberkurt; arrive after sunset, having passed a watering-place called
Anithes. All pebbles and stones.
5th. I'ngal, a small town ; salt of very good quality, and of red color, is ob
tained, but only in small quantities. The inhabitants, mostly belonging
to the tribe of the I'ghdalen, speak a dialect of the Songhay, and possess
much cattle, with which they supply the market of A'gades. Formerly
the S.W. gate of that town was therefore called " K6fa-n-I'ngal." Ar
rive at sunset ; ground pebbly, very few large stones.
6th.  , a well, the name of which my informant did not remember ; ar
rive about four o'clock in the afternoon.
7th. Afayen, a valley, where you arrive about the same time ; pebbles and sand.
8th. Encamp on the pebbly plain a little before sunset.
9th. The same ; the plain here is overgrown with a little herbage.
10th. A spot called Semye-tayen ; arrive at sunset.
11th. Jobeli, a considerable place belonging to the province of A'dar, the terri
tory of which begins here.* It is the market of the Kel-geres. The
language of the inhabitants is said to be a dialect of the Songhay ; you
arrive at about three o'clock P.M., after having passed on your road
"Tesaki," a locality probably so called from the " capparis sodata."
12th. Awelimmiden, an encampment of the section of this great Tawarek tribe
which is called "Awelimmiden wuen Bodhal;'' at sunset.
13th. Ir-zaghur, a village ; arrive about one o'clock P.M. ; road very rugged.
Uth. Tinfaf, a village (N.B. — I forgot to ask my informant to what tribe belong
the inhabitants of these two places) ; road rocky.
loth. Duk-rausu, a village ; about one o'clock P.M.
16th. Miizki, a village ; at sunset; stony.
17th. Konni, a considerable place, residence of A'dam, a chief who commands
a large body of cavalry ; arrive a little after midday ; road very rocky.
18th. Jani, a village ; at suflset.
» I shall say more about A'dar in the third volume of my journal.

600 APPENDIX.
Day. 19th. Wiirno, a considerable place, the present residence of Emir el Mumenin
Aliyu, son of Bello ; arrive at one o'clock P.M., after having passed
Salame and other villages.
20th. Sokoto, after a march of about eight or nine hours.

II. — Route fkom A'gades to Maradi, accokding to the information of
the Kel-geres Gojeki and his Companion Ghasee.
1st. E'razar, a valley, where you arrive about three o'clock P.M., having started
from A'gades in the morning.
2d. E'm-rendel, a valley ; arrive about the same hour.
3d. Urzedem, a valley ; arrive at sunset, your march having led over a sandy
region.
4th. A valley, with water, which (according to Gojeri) is called Temiye, but
according to Ghaser, Afenkiik; at about four o'clock. Probably these
are different valleys at a short distance from each other.
5th. A valley, Tewuilu, or another called Begem ; at sunset.
6th. Akiiku ; at 'aser (about four o'clock), after having passed a valley called
Zeriten, where you fill your water-skins. The whole road consists of
pebbles.
7th. Tigger-aderez, a valley ; at four o'clock.
8th. Etiddul, high sand-hills, where you arrive about noon.
9th. Jenkeb, a valley ; about two o'clock P.M.
10th. Yamimma, a valley with water ; arrive at 'aser.
1 1th. Zermenetta, a village ; about 'aser.
12th. Awelimmid, a considerable place called after a settlement of the Awelim
miden ; arrive about one o'clock P.M.
13th. Lademmau, or Elademmau, the northernmost village of the province of
Gober, and the residence of Ittegama, the brother of 'Abd el Kader, the
sultan of A'gades.
14th. Gudunnezna, a village ; arrive about one o'clock P.M.
1 5th. A'kenif, a village ; at the 'aser.
1 6th, and the two following days, travel over the Hammada, or sarari.
17th. Arrive at Maradi, Mariyadi, or, as the Emgedesi people frequently call it
(apparently adopting the Berber idiom), Amradi. I shall have to say
more about this country in the course of my narrative, and therefore
omit a list of the places in Gober, which I collected in A'gades.

III. — Itinerary from A'gades to Dam-erghu, according to various In-
i FORMANTS.
1st. Leave the town in the afternoon, and sleep in Tesak-n-tallemt.
2d. Valley E'riyan, with water ; about 'aser.
3d. Sofo-n-birni, a place now deserted, with a well filled up, but evidently once
a seat of government, being called " the old capital ;" the whole country
is flat ; arrive about three o'clock in the afternoon.

ROUTE FROM A'GADES TO BI'LMA. 601
4th. Faifai, a place with plenty of herbage ; no water on the road side except
in holes in the rocks.
5th. Lagato, a basin or pool of water, " tebki," of very remarkable extent, and
surrounded with abundant herbage.
6th. Riyan, or " Eriyan-embisge," with plenty of herbage; about sunset. An
other road from Lagato to Teteni seems to touch at the village Takoko.
7th. Teteni, with much herbage, no water ; between four and five o'clock P.M.
8th. Gagawa, a village belonging to the district of Dam-er-ghii, with a basin of
water which is said to be connected in the rainy season with that of La
gato ; arrive about 'aser.
9th. Tagelel, the village belonging to the chief A'nnur ; about noon.

IV. — Route from A'gades to B£lma, according to the Emgedesi E'deri.
1st. Leaving A'gades in the evening, sleep the first night at about half an
hour's distance from the town, in the depression called Efigi-n-taghalamt.
2d. Tin-taborak, a valley with water, where you arrive at the 'aser, after having
passed early in the morning the valley called Ameluli.
3d Binebbu, a valley ornamented with dum-palms, where you arrive a little
before sunset. In the morning you keep for a while along the valley of
Tin-taborak,. after which your way lies over the rocks, crossing three dif
ferent valleys, viz., Emeller, Arata, and the valley of Amdegeru, before
you arrive at that called Binebbu.
4th. Tin-dawen, a valley with water ; arrive about one o'clock P.M.
5th. Atezerket, after the 'aser ; all rocky ground.
6th. Encamp on the Hammada, or tenere, consisting of pebbles ; about the 'aser.
7th. Tazel, a spot among the rocks ; about the same hour.
8th. Efigagen, a locality of similar character ; about sunset.*
9th. Debradu Ezakker, a hollow between the rocks ; halt two hours after sun
set and rest a while, then start again.
10th, and the four following days, you travel night and day over the Hammada,
making only a short halt from 'Asha to about midnight. On the Ham
mada there are neither trees nor stones, and scarcely any herbage.
15th. Fashi, the westernmost oasis of the "Henderi Teda," or, as it is called by
the Arabs, Wadi Kawar, with plenty of date-trees and two castles, one of
which is in ruins, while the other is in good condition.
16th. About two hours after sunset, encamp on the Hammada, when, after about
three or four hours' repose, you start again, and continue the whole of the
night.
17th. Encamp late in the evening and start again, as the day before.
18th. Bilma, the well-known town in Kawar, with the salt-pits. The Tawarek
call all the Teda or Tebu Beraiini, a name which in the following volume
I shaE endeavor to explain, from the original connection between this
people and the Kanuri or Bornu race.
* Atout the name Efigagen, which is probably only a dialectic variety of Ef inagen, I have
spoken in a former passage.

602 APPENDIX.
V. — Route from A'gades to Tawat according to 'Abd-Alla.
N.B. — Although the first part of this route, as far as Neswa, coincides in many
places with my own route, I shall nevertheless not omit it, as the coincidence in
cpiestion proves the accuracy and intelligence of the informant.
Day.1st. Leaving the town in the afternoon, you encamp the first night near the
village called El Khasas, or El Hakhsas, in the fertile valley of the same
name, distant from A'gades about eight miles.
2d. Telwa, a valley, where you arrive about the 'aser, after having passed on
your road several valleys separated from each other by rocky ground,
more or less elevated. Early in the morning you cross the valley called
A'zal, then that called Tufatekin ; after which, about noon, you pass the
celebrated valley of I'r-n-allem, with ruins of old houses, and two fruit-
bearing date-trees ; after which, before you arrive at Telwa, there is still
another valley to be crossed, which is called Iserseren.
3d. U'klef, a valley with water, like Telwa ; arrive at the time of the 'aser, after
having crossed the Wadi A'sa, and afterward gone over a pebbly level
called Tinin.
4th. Makam e' Sheikh ben 'Abd el Kerim, a sort of mosque known to some
under the name of Msid Sidi Baghdadi, where you arrive about an hour
before sunset, after having rested, during the greatest heat, near Aiide-
ras. In the morning, your road passes for some time along the valley
- U'klef.
5th. Tiggeda ; about 'aser.
6th. Encamp about sunset on rocky ground. Pass in the morning the valley
called Tefarrowet ; then cross for some hours gravelly ground, with a few
large white projecting stones ; after which you descend into the valley
called A'gaten, where, near a well, you pass the hours of the greatest
heat.
7th. Tensif ; arrive before the 'aser.
8th. Iferwan, one of the finest valleys of Air, with a village of the same name,
and plenty of date-trees bearing excellent fruit. Arrive at sunset, after
having passed a number of small valleys called Aghitam.
9th. Tidik, a valley, with a village of the same name, where you arrive before
the 'aser, after having passed the well called Neggaru.
10th. Siif mallei, "the white sand," n. place in the gravelly ground, over which
your route lies the whole day ; arrive about 'aser.
11th. Zelil, an inhabited spot, where you arrive about one o'clock P.M., after
having passed valleys called respectively Agelendi, Fade, and Meratha.
(N.B. — The valley can be called by this last name only by the Arabs.)
12th. Ifigi or Ifine-makkeder, called by others Ifine-bakka, where you arrive at
sunset, after having marched the whole day over a pebbly plain called
by the Arabs " Sh'abet el Ahir." The reason why this plain received
such a remarkable name was evidently because it was here, in the neigh
borhood of the hill Maket-n-ikelan* that the ancient Gober country of
* See my narrative, p. 243.

ROUTE FROM A'GADES TO TAWAT. 603
Day. Asben was changed into the Berber country of Air, or, as the Arabs call
it, Ahir.
13th. You encamp on the Hammada, where there is a little herbage, after hav
ing crossed a rocky ground full of pebbles, and having passed >. valley
called Tiyiiten.
Uth. Tou encamp at one o'clock P.M. on a spot with a little herbage of the
species called "el had," after having crossed a stony track called by the
people Tim-az-garen.
15th. Neswa, a well, not far west of the well Asiu, where you arrive after the
'aser, after having crossed a valley called Tafsastan.
16th. Teraf, a place on the Hammada, where you encamp at the 'aser.
17th. Tin-terambe, a valley, with a famous cavern called A'agidet e' Nib, where
you arrive at the 'aser, proceeding always on the Hammada.
18th, Encamp at sunset between sand-hills called by the Arabs " el Ark" or
"Irk" (the Hills).
19th. Tagerera, a valley, where you arrive about one o'clock P.M., after having
entered a mountainous tract called " Aghil."
20th, El A'ghsul, a valley with water, where you arrive a little after noon, after
having passed over rugged ground called Esfamellesa.
21st. Tekderen, a valley, where you arrive after the 'aser.
22d. Egharaghen, a valley, where you arrive at the time of the 'aser, after
having crossed a flat plain covered with pebbles.
23d. Zerzer, a valley with water ; arrival at the 'aser. The ground of the same
character.
24th. Ifek, a valley ; arrival at the 'aser. Country the same.
25th. El Imkam* a valley, where you arrive atone o'clock P.M. ; pebbly ground.
26th. A'gnar, a plain inclosed by ridges ; arrive at the 'aser, after having kept
first along the- valley which is called by the Arabs el Imkam, and leads
into another valley called Temaghaset, from which you enter upon the
plain.
27th. Turaghen, a valley, where you encamp about the 'a9er, after having crossed
another valley called Utiil, into which you descend from the gravelly
level.
28th. Tilak, a valley ; where you arrive after the 'aser, having crossed another
valley called ETieri.
29th. Tema-saneggeti, a valley ; arrive at the 'aser, having crossed another val
ley called Tin-agh-akeli.
30th. E'n-emmegel, a valley rich in trees, where you encamp at sunset. To-day
you have to pass two other valleys called Eresnughen and Tin-taheli, all
these valleys being separated from each other by a hammada of an even
surface, without stones.
31st. Teharraket, a valley commanded by a mountain called Tureret, where you
arrive about the 'aser ; pebbles and stones.
N.B.— Teharraket is a very important point on this route, as, having now
• The name Imkdm is remarkable. It seems to denote a religious " station ;" and it is inter-
mHng, as it exactly corresponds with the station Dekh&r, mentioned by the famous traveler
Eta Batuta as ten days distant from the well where the road to Tawat separated from that to
%pt, which, there can not be the least doubt, is identical with Asiu or with Neswa.

604 APPENDIX.
turned the high mountainous region of the desert of the Hogar or Ha
gara, which you leave on your right, you change your direction and turn
northward.
32d. Hagara, a valley with a well called Tehelehohet, where you arrive after
the 'aser.
33d. Suf mellel, another locality of the same name as that above mentioned,
where you arrive about the 'aser, after having passed two valleys, the
first of which is called Akdhau, and the other E'm-ujaj.
34th. Sheikh Salah, with the surname Mela el akhsen, "the best of men,"* near
to whose chapel, situate in the mountainous tract Tesennu, there is wa
ter ; you arrive a little before sunset, having passed over a pebbly level.
35th. Terazart, "the little valley" or "glen;" shortly before sunset; hammada.
36th. Emmesir, a valley, where you arrive after the 'aser. In the morning you
keep along a valley called Meniyet, with a well, beyond which you cross
another valley called Afisfes, while the last part of your road leads over
the hammada, consisting of gravel.
37th. Etgiilgulet, where you arrive at the time of the 'aser. In the morning you
keep for a while along the valley Emmesir, till you reach the valley
called Arak ; and following it up, you pass two watering-places, one of
which is called (by the Arabs) Sekiyah, and the other " el Hajar.''
38th. Tajemut, a valley, where you encamp before the 'aser.
39th. Koikewat, a cluster of small valleys, where you encamp at one o'clock P.M.
40th. Gurdi, a valley, where you arrive a little before sunset, after having crossed
another valley called Terattimin, with water.
4 1st. The well in the long valley A'ghmemar.
42d. Encamp about the same hour, still in the same valley A'ghmemar.
43d. E'n-semme'd, where you arrive after the 'aser. In the morning you still
keep along the broad valley of A'ghmemar until you ascend a mountain,
from which you descend into another valley called by the Arabs " el Bot-
ta," probably on account of its hollow shape; here is a well called "Tin-
Sliman. Proceeding along the valley, you reach the place of your en
campment for the night.
44th. El Ghabah (the Forest), of great extent and full of brushwood ; arrive at
the 'aser, after having crossed on your road a depression or hollow called
e' Sha'ab, from which you enter upon rising ground and come to the
forest.
45th. I'n-salah, the great market-place of the southernmost district of Tawat,
where you arrive about the 'aser, first keeping in the forest, then ascend
ing a little.
N.B. — Along this route, as I learned on a later occasion, there are several
places where salt is found, which, as the fact is one of the greatest interest, I
shall here name together, although I am unfortunately not able to connect the
first places which I have to mention with the corresponding points of the itiner
ary. These are E'm-eddaror, said to be six days' march from Asiu ; farther on,
Ahoren, and, one day S. from the well Tin-sliman, E'n-mellel.
I here also add what information I could collect about the tribes dwelling on
* Whether this Sheikh Salah be the same as the famous sheikh of the same name who has
given his name to the celebrated Wadi el Sheikh, in the peninsula of Sinai, I can not tell.

THE SAKOMATBEN.— THE HOGAH OR HA'GARA. 605
or near this road. As far as Neswa, we know them from what I have said above ;
but the first part also of the road from this place is inhabited by sections of the
Imghad, as the Kel-ahenet, while the Ijran have their settlements even as far west
as the valley Tajemut. a. The Sakomaren.
Next to the Imghad, on the north side of the road, are the Sakomaren, a tribe
who, in the middle age of the Arabs, lived N.E. from the middle course of the so-
called Niger, and of whom some remains are still to be found in the neighborhood
of that river, near Timbuktu ; for there can be no doubt about the identity of
these tribes.* By what revolution this tribe was driven from their ancient seats
we are not yet able to say ; however it may be, Ebn Batuta found the Berdama
where the Sakomaren had formerly resided.
Their present settlements seem not to be so very dreary, and are said to be
rich in pasture-grounds, so that they are enabled to breed plenty of cattle, and
make a good deal of butter, with which they supply the less favored districts of
A'sben. They appear to possess, however, little strength, and are greatly influ
enced apparently by their intimate friendship with the Tawatiye ; part of them
live even in the territory of the latter oasis, principally belonging to the section
called Welad-wuen-Tawat, a name manifesting a curious mixture of Arabic and
Temashight, though the main body of them is said to dwell in the district of
Amgi'd. Besides the name of this tribe, I learned the names of the follow
ing, viz. :
The Kel-tegettuft, who inhabit the district called Ahohoghen.
The Kel-iihet, whose tents are generally pitched in Ahellegen.
The Welad Temenit, hiving in Fazolet.
The tribe of the Haj 'Ali, living in a valley called Gharis ; and,
¦ The Ihiyawen-hada, a tribe living in Imahir, and probably related to the tribe
called simply Ihiyawen. 6. The Hogar or Hagara.
Formerly I thought that the Hogar were more numerous than their eastern
kinsmen the Azkar, and that they were able to bring into the field as many as
three thousand men ; but I have discovered in the course of my proceedings
that the free men, the real " hharar" or Imoshagh among them scarcely exceed
five hundred, while of course their Imghad and slaves muster a greater number.
But, notwithstanding their small number, the Hogar are much feared by the other
tribes on account of their great bodily size and strength, and because they are
armed with a variety of weapons, and are thickly clothed. They live entirely
upon meat and milk, and have few resources but their herds, as they do not levy
tribute on the caravans, but receive only small sums from the Kiinta, the Bera-
Msh, and even a light tax from Arawan. They are not capable of turning to ac-
' The Arab authors always write Xj \**jus ; but with regard to African names there is the
Meat uncertainty in the use of the Ci the % and the £s* Tnus some write lix^C,
•then i^\ . Gober is written J.^) by others J»£ ; Tagant IJ^j l£rij and t,_fc _ j [£•

606 APPENDIX.
count the salt-mines of Taodenni, which are rather distant from their seats,
though they levy a small tribute from the chief of that place. But their relations
to the western part of the desert will be more clearly understood from what I shall
say in another place.
The Hogar are divided into six branches :
The Kel-ghalla, inhabiting the valley of Erarar (a general appellation for a
large valley plain) ;
The Bu-ghelan, living in the valley of Tefedist ;
The Tai-tiik, inhabiting the fine valley Arak ;
The Tegehin-usidi, who have their abode in the valley of Teghazart ;
The Inemba, who pitch their tents in the valley Tifi-n-akeli;
The I'kdeyen, who inhabit AnimmegeL
I will now add a few remarks on the centre of the district occupied by this
tribe, which seems to present traits of peculiar interest. It is generally called
by the Arabs "jebel Hagar," but this is not the original appellation, its true or
indigenous name being "Atahor." This mountain-mass (which evidently lies
in the angle formed by the route from Asiu to Tawat) stretches from three to
four days' march in length, and one in breadth, from S. to N., at the distance
of seven days' march S.E. from Tawat. My intelligent friend the Sheikh Sidi
Ahmed el Bakay, in Timbuktu, who had lived some time among the Hogar, as
well as among the tribes of Air, especially the Kel-fadaye, assured me in the
most positive way that this mountain group, and one long range of it in partic
ular, is far higher than the mountains of Air, the rocks being very steep and of
red color. He represented to me- as very remarkable, and probably the highest
of the group, the isolated, detached, and steep peak I'liman or E'liman. Very ¦
fine valleys and glens are formed between these mountains, some of them watered
by lively perennial streams, and producing figs and grapes.
In this place may be fitly mentioned those Tawarek tribes that live within the
boundaries of Tawat. These are the Kelemellel or Welad Fakki, as they are
called by the people of Tawat, and their kinsmen the Tigge-n-sakkel, and also
the Ti'gge-n-gali. These tribes are regarded as belonging to the Tawarek, while
the Gurara are considered as Zenata; and it is very erroneous to regard Tawat ,
as almost a Tawarek country.

VI. — Route from A'gades to the Hillet e' Sheikh Sidi el Mukhtak in
Azawad, according to the Kel-ferwan Baina.
N.B. — This route is a path taken at present every year by the Kel-ferwan when
they sally forth to plunder the caravans on the road from Tawat to Timbuktu ; it
is not altogether a direct road, as I learned afterward. But, unfortunately, none
of the people of Azawad (who, as I mentioned above, when they do not go by way
of Timbuktu, generally take the road to Mekka by way of A'gades) was able to
give me the exact details of the direct road. This road passes tlirough the seats
of the Awelimmiden.
Day. 1st. E'nwagged, a valley, where you arrive at the 'aser, having started from
A'gades in the morning.

ROUTE FROM A'GADES TO AZAWA'D. 607
Day. 2d. Imintedent (perhaps E'm-n-tedent), where you arrive about the same hour,
having crossed many depressions or hollows in the rocky ground.
3d. Sakeret, a valley ; arrive at sunset.
ith. Etmet Taderret, a valley ; arrive two hours after sunset.
5th. Agredem ; about 'aser. The whole day's journey lies over a hammada of
red soil (recalling to mind the sameness of all those elevated levels in
Central Africa), the red color being produced by the iron oxide.
6th. Etsa-n-eliman ; at 'aser. Hammada.
7th. Timmia; at 'aser. Hammada.
8th. Ebelaghlaghen ; about the same hour. Hammada.
9th. Isakeriyen ; about the same hour. The hammada is here covered with a
little herbage. The road thus far seems to be about N.N.W. ; hence it
turns northwestward.
10th. Etsa-n-Hebbi ; about the 'aser.
Uth. Igedian ; about one o'clock P.M.
12th. Akar ; about the 'aser.
13th. Kelijit; a little after noon.
Uth. A'kahi, a considerable valley with water, which you reach at one o'clock.
15th. A'kerir, an inhabited valley, where you arrive about the 'aser, having trav
eled the morning till after midday along the valley ATialu.
16th. Kidal ; after the 'aser.
This name, as I learned afterward, is not applied to a single locality, but
comprises a district with fertile valleys, inhabited by the Debakal, who
breed an excellent race of horses.
17th. Tim-aklali ; about 'aser.
18th. Asalagh; at sunset, after having crossed several hollows in the rocky
ground. Here you find inhabitants, partly Arabs, of the tribe of the
Kunta, partly Tawarek, of the widely dispersed tribe of the I'fogas.
19th. Aghasher (Eghazar), a fine valley with date-trees, corn, and' tobacco. At
some distance from it is another fertile valley called Tesillite, likewise
abounding in dates.
20th. Tighaughawen ; about the 'aser.
21st. Hillet e' Sheikh Sidi el Mukhtar, a celebrated place of worship, where you
arrive about one o'clock P.M. This place ought to have considerable
interest for all those who take an interest in the circumstances attending
the frequent sacrifice of life made in the arduous endeavor to open the
African continent to European science and intercourse ; for this is the
very spot where the unfortunate Major Laing, under the protection of
Sidi Mohammed, the father of my noble friend, the Sheikh El Bakay,
recovered from those fearful wounds which he had received in the noc
turnal attack by the Tawarek in Wadi Ahennet. Hence, in the few let
ters which he sent home, so full of resignation and heroic courage, he
called the place " belad Sidi Mohammed." In the further course of our
narrative this spot will be connected with Timbuktu.

608

APPENDIX.

VII. — Quarters of the town of Katsena.
Ambutey, or Mbutey, the oldest quarter ; Todo-malle,* Bar-hemawa, Suafawa,
Rimi-n-Sambari, Darma, Tiidduwa-Anabara, Tokawa, Chidefawa, Rimi-n-Gulla-
du, Uchealbaba, Mogoba alhandu, Tawatinke,t Sofo-kaswa, Mesallachi-n-Kaura,
Durrima-n-takelme (the shoemakers' quarter), Ungwa Debbosa, Kameyawa, Shib
dawa, Dabera, Tafi da rawa (" clapping hands and dancing"— a very merry
quarter, as it seems), Ungwa-n-baraye, Ungwa Doka, Sabbera, Mehedi, Ungwa
Kuka, Chefenawa, L61oki-n-da-n-al barka, Ungwa Saka, Ungwa da-n-allo (prob
ably the schoolmasters'! quarter), Ya-aura, Yansaboni, Dambo, Sunkura, Ungwa
Berebere (the quarter of the Bornu people), Gamberawa, L61oki-n-akochi, Bara-
saki, Ri'mi-n-aferga, Tydde Liffeda, Ungwa Sherifawa, Limawa, Chedia§ Akan-
zem, Kofa Tiiluwi, Gogari, Reri-n-wuari, Jagabanchi, Addemunawa, Dodawa,
Kachumbe, Yankewure, Masanawa, Muskani, Cheferawa, L61oki-n-Kabawa, Ga-
fay, Ungwa Chedia, Kokoyawa, Jangwaki, Jangozawa, Mesallachi-n-G6berawa
(the mosque of the Gober people), Faskari, Zazagau, Diirrimi-n-shauru,|| Kon-
tarawa, Sakawa, K6fa-n-Yandaka, Ungwa Koani, or Kwani (probably the quar
ter of the Koana or Kwana people), Dorowa, Sabberawa, Jambira, Makera-n-owo,
Makerachinki, Daugaumu, Yagabanchi, Yarangway, M'allemi-n-dawa, Bokudawa,
Kantamawa, Bekurawa, Bindawa, Marea, Ungwa Turawa (the quarter of the
Arabs), Ungwa Sirdi (the saddlers' quarter), Ungwa Yatawa, Jambarawa, Yango-
zawa, Jembirawa (different from Jamberawa), Machika, Samri, Arbabejeri ; then
the quarters lying close to the different gates of the town, and called after them
the K6fa-n-Guga, K. Samri, K. Dyrbi, K. Marusa, K. Kaura, K. Gazubi, K. Koya,
K. Yendaka. Further, the quarters Loloki-n-kari, Jembisa, Katukam, Yanguzali,
Kogo, Gulbi, Jinu, Keyiba, Kuserviwa fodii (the four corners), I'nchide yaki, Dug-
gul, Amorebbi, Danrori, Dandinki,Turkawa, Haski-n-kaura, Saba-n-bauri, Ungollo
or Ngollo, Adyrjawa, Ombuwamay, Ansaga, Jinu, Mbanau, Aura, Dansagi, Dan-
kashi, Bagada, Boway, Shenteli-karama, Shenteli baba, Grassemi, Magaji-Edii-is,
Gagi, Mejebbama, Marina-dan-Gammu, Jirayi-baba-n-Hausa, Kammasawa, Dan-
sakawu, Sakayawa, Marina dan marina, Tokkumawa, Dambokulum, Marrakada,
Kokochiko, Propporokaya, Barazakana, Tebki-n-chemi, Fari-n-yaro, Kadam baki-
n-gulbf, Yawal-khawari, Baskoraye, Kautawa, Riikum, Gongom, Daggabawa,
Kasawa, Bagauzamawa, Usawa, Chiserakawa, Komming, Hannuzerawa, Gulbawa,
Hannini-basara, Moichi, Rimaye-algari, Zambadawa, Baskorawa, Mariyadawa.
These are the names of the larger quarters of the town ; but there are still a
good many smaller ones.
* This name seems to have evident relation to Melle or Malle, the foreigners from that
country probably living in this part of the town.
t The form of the name seems to be Mandingo, while the root calls to mind Tawat. " Nke"
in Mandingo means " inhabitants." It is not impossible that the quarter of the Tawati in
Katsena was honored with the same name which in former times it had in Melle.
t Or more properly " the schoolboys'." " Da-n-all6" means "the son of the writing-board."
§ "Chedia," in Kanuri "jeja," is the caoutchouc-tree.
II ' ' Durrimi" is a kind of tree ; and durrimi-n-shduru means a tree of this sort under which
councils were held.

PLACES IN THE PROVINCE OF KA'TSENA AND KANO'. 609
Vin. — Chief Places in the Province of Katsena.
The names of the principal places belonging to the province of Katsena are
as follows : On the west side of the capital, Jengdfi, Yangero, Biiggaji, Barawa,
Kangwa, Kangwaji, Zauri, Kurfi or Kiirrefi, Shafo, Rawani, Kiisa, Komi, Ataga-
rawa, Kabakawa, Sori, Tsani, U'ruma, U'mmadawu, Kdgo, Faskari, Tsaskia,
Sakka, Gunki, Runka, Takabawa, Dyrru, Guzordwa, Automaki, Motazu, Sayaya,.
Karon, Geza, Rawed, Ganwa, Fari-n-nia, Kadandani', Doka, Maji, Sabdngari, Ya-
tawa, Kadakawa, Shibdawa, Bindawa, Kamri, Tama, Kusada, Kafarda, Yakofawa,
Ingawa or Ngawa, Dorii, Jani, Dawane, Yame, Duwang, Kdgado, Ajiyawa, Dan-
yeam, Rindnguza, Kuragd, -Kaita, Sabi, Kurfiindu, Yandaki, Shinkafi, Kotyi,
Berda, Mokorda, Tunani, Bai, Kofi, Kurtufa, Tsuntsuwa, Tiirajd, Masabo, La-
geru, Kdddu, Kotta, Mammaru, Mani, Tiiwaru, Jendodd, Duchi-n-raga, Tamal-
lawa, Sandawa, Tabani, Bareruwa, Goranzam. On the east side there are Kaya,
yame (different from that above mentioned), Dagesamu, Debbawa, Mashi, I'lel-
agalii, Ilel-labukara, Male-yabani, Y'oyo, Garwa, Bukuru, Chille, Dankar, Tiina,
Yendaka, Ruma, Meredabay; Musawa, Dangali, Tafashia, Kurkojango, Dayay,
Sabo-n-birni, Gangara, Seeya, Mahiita, Dandamay, Kiirremi, Dantytturu, Danja,
Huriya, Maska, Gdzeki, Duya, Darwa, Tiidu, Sheneli, Yangeme, Babelkaza, Da-
haukada, Kucheri, Kdrumawa, Machika, Kiyera,. Baskari, Zagami, Sakafarda,
Keffi-n-deSi, Keffi Pokkwa, Keffi Sille ; Tsa,. Kiindnru, Yashe ; Garii-n-Sen£na,
Karadiiwa, Taku, Luggul, Kankara dan. Jemmaka^Tdtali, Farii, Zagani, O'naka,
Eiiwafi, A'jeja, Sabbere, Gunki, Birki, Munir, Taura, Dabawa, Sheni, A'demii.
Toward Daura there are Dantdtoni, Dandare; Bene, Karofi, Makera, Yentomaki,
Daikaruwe, Sheleri, Samri, Lambisa, Tuddu, another ShenL Dankada, Faskali,
Koyello, birni-n-Gwari, Madddo, Kurriga.

IX — Chief Places in the Province of Kano, and Routes diverging from
Kano ra various Directions, principally t,oward the South.
As for the province of Kand, it comprises a very fertile district of considerable
extent, with the following walled towns t Yerima,. Gerki, Zankara, Yafen, Ringim,
Dushi, Gea, Gerko, Dell, Udil, Taura, Kiira (a place particularly famous for the
beauty of its dyed cloth), Sakwa, Bebeji, Rimangadd, Dawaki, Gddia, Bishi,
Gezawa, Zakere, Killi, Mejia, Mega, Merkd, Takay, Sangaya (the place touched
at by Clapperton), and the governor's two pleasure towns Gdgem and Fanisd..
Besides these walled towns, the most considerable places of the province are
as follows : Ungdgo, Dawano, Zabenawa, Geze, Wdttari, Gdra, Madobi, Salanta,
Ammagwa, Dadi-n-diinia, Gabezawa, Ddko, Kwmke-alla, Dangayame,,Gurjawa,
Zongonkilli, Abegani, Sakwa-n-Kumbdto, Zango, Gezi, Rail m'allem, Rimi-n.-
Asbenawa, Dawaki, Gund, Rand (the town mentioned in p. 000 as having for
merly been the seat of a kingdom or principality by itself), Te'nneger, Kiyawa,
Kadwawa, Takalafia, Katakata, Gazdbi (a village consisting of scattered groups),
Danzdshia, Gulii, Gani, Tamberawa, Dahasa, Gorzo, Karaye,. Kafi-n-Agiir, Ru-
kadawa, Bdda, Tariva, Faki, Koki, Dawaki-n-Dambambara (properly Da-n-
Bimbara), Katangerawe, Katanga-baba, Katanga-karama, Katkazuba, M'allem,
Kmwa, Bunkdri (a considerable market-place, with much cultivation of rice),
Vol. I.— Q q

610 APPENDIX.
Ya-n-kasari, Tuddum Billane, Bacherawa, Yamata, Deme, Deme-n-da-n-karfi,
Tunfafi, Kuddadefawa, Zango-n-da-n-A'udu, Paginkayi, Jajira, Fofa, Dangiigwa,
Zango Mala A'udu, Jelli, Madachi, Makode, Konshi-n-gwarta, Yakase, Ydla,
and others.
I will here add some of the chief routes connecting Kand with the principal
places around, and which will best show its central situation. As for the routes
to Kukawa, of which I forwarded an account to Europe in 1851, I shall omit
them, as I had myself repeatedly sufficient occasion to become acquainted with
this tract from my own observations. The route by Khadeja has been united
with my own route.
I first give the route from Kand to Zinder, the northwesternmost place of the
^empire of Bdrnu, by way of Kazaure :
Day. 1st Makdda, a large open place, consisting of cottages with clay walls and
thatched roofs. The country level and densely inhabited. Arrive about
the 'aser.
2d. Kazaure, residence of the governor Dambo, formerly in direct dependence
upon Sokoto, but at present in a certain degree of subordination to Kand.
The town is surrounded with a clay wall, and but thinly inhabited. A
market is held every Monday- The neighborhood of the town is rocky,
and the country intervening between Kazaure and Makoda thickly cov
ered with wood, without cultivation or an inhabited spot.
3d. Mazannia, a large place surrounded with a " keffi" or stockade, said to be
larger than Tasawa ; but the government of the town is generally divided,
half of it belonging to Daura, and the other half to Bdrnu.
4th. Magariya, a large place with a keffi, only about fifteen miles from the for
mer. The surrounding country all covered with forest.
5th. Zinder, about 'aser. There are no villages on the road except near Zinder.
I now add the road from Kazaure to Daura, and from Daura to Zinder. Keep
ing in a northwesterly direction from Kazaure, you reach on the first day, about
'aser, Sandamu, an ancient town of considerable size, but with few inhabitants,
and enter, on the following day, the town of Daura, about two o'clock in the
afternoon. The town of Daura, which, as I have observed (p. 472), is one of the
oldest, if not the very oldest* settlement of the Hausa people ; and here, too, the
Islam seems to have been introduced at an earlier date, certainly not later than
its introduction into Katsena by the grandson of Maghili, the missionary, as is
stated, having been a man from Baghdad, of the name of Mohammed 'Ali, who
killed the dodd, or the old fetish lion. I have already mentioned the magic
well ; and there are many other interesting traditions current with regard to the
older history of the place. Daura is a large town, surrounded with a strong clay
wall in good repair, but is only thinly inhabited, and the Thursday market is of
no importance. It is the capital of a province, and the residence of a governor
dependent only on the Emir el Mumenin, and would certainly have been visited
by me in one of my wanderings, if the governor, whose name is the same as that
• It is a difficult question, as I have said already, whether Daura be identical with the Dflnr
mentioned by El Bekri ; but I think it is not. It was in former times a chief place of the
Diggera.

FROM KANO' TO THE BE'NUWE'. 611
of the governor of Katsena (Mohammed Bello), and whose character is much
worse, had not been notorious as an energetic and warlike, but unjust and ra
pacious fellow, with whom it would be more difficult to deal than with the high
way robbers in the wilderness of Dankama. But I recommend this place strongly
to the notice of future travelers, as a great many native stories relate to it. It
was once conquered by a prince of Muniyd named Sdriyd. All the country
around is at present a wilderness, and there is very little cultivation.
Going from Daura to Zinder in a N.N.E. direction, you sleep the first night
in Kdrni or Kurreni, a small village surrounded with a stockade, being the
frontier-place of the province of Daura in this direction. It is situated in the
midst of the forest, and is distant from the capital about six hours.
Day. 2d. Arrive at an early hour in the forenoon at Mashi, a small place surrounded
with a stockade, and belonging to Zinder. Every Wednesday a market
is held here.
3d. About 'aser arrive at Baki, a large place surrounded with a "keffi."
4th. Before noon arrive in Zinder. There are no villages on this road.
I now proceed to give the routes from Kand toward tbe Benuwe, which has
been called Tshadda or Chadda in its lower course, merely from mistake, I think,
while it has several other names. Zariya or Zdzd, the capital of the province of
Zegzeg, was visited by Clapperton on his second journey; and its latitude can
be laid down with certainty, its longitude with approximate correctness.* From
this place some important routes, very frequently taken by native traders, and
even sometimes by enterprising Arabs, branch off toward the places in the vicin
ity of the above-mentioned river. On the other hand, we have now, by Mr.
Vogel's observations, the exact position of Yakoba, the capital of the province
Boldbold, or Bauchi, and therefore generally called " Garu-n-Bauchi ;" so that
the most important places between Kand and the river can be laid down with
tolerable exactness. I will here only remark that the general features of my
hydrographical sketch of this dictrict in 1852 have been entirely confirmed by
Mr. Vogel's observations, from which, although they are as yet very insufficiently
known, it is clear that the central part of Bauchi, in which Yakoba is situated,
is a high rocky plateau, the central ridge of which evidently forms the water-
parting of the various rivers in opposite directions — the head-waters of the ko
madugu of Bdrnu (generally called Yeou) toward the east, the Kaduna and
Gurara (the Rari of Richard Lander), which unite near Birni-n-Gwari, toward
the west, and a branch of the Benuwe, running first to the east and then turning
southward. The two most important points with regard to the connection of
Kand, Zariya, and Yakoba with the lower course of the Benuwe, are the towns
of Keffi-n-Abdezenga and Lafiya Berebere, while the latter of these places is also
one of the chief centres whence spreads the dominion of the Fulbe, with misery
and devastation, over the neighboring tribes.
I will here give the route from Kand by way of Zariya to Keffi-n-Abdezenga,
which goes from Zariya almost directly southward. The stations are very short-
* Zariya has been recently (end of 1855) visited by Mr. Vogel ; but his astronomical observa
tions have not yet been received. However, it appears from what he says that all the water
nae around is drained toward the Kwara, and not toward the kom&dugu of B6rnu.

612 APPENDIX.
Day. 1st. Madobi, a place with a market. Pass in the morning the " kogi," or kogi-
n-Kand.
2d. Reach Bebeji about ten o'clock A.M.*
3d. About one o'clock P.M. arrive at Rimi-n-Kaura, a group of villages with a
rivulet running east.
4th. About nine o'clock A.M. reach Baki-n-Kaminda, a cluster of scattered
villages, called by this name from a rivulet Kaminda or Kamanda, which
skirts it.
5th. About eleven o'clock A.M. reach a walled town called Da-n-Sdshia, rich
jn date-trees. Here is the frontier of the province of Kand toward that
of Zariya, marked by a large "kiirremi" dry in summer.
6th. A little after noon reach a small river called Kubututu, running east, but
afterward turning south and joining the Kaduna, which drains all this
part of the country. On the bank of the rivulet is a village called Anshd.
7th. About eleven o'clock A.M., after a journey through a woody country, reach
Ruma, a large place but thinly inhabited, and surrounded with walls in
decay.
8th. About the same hour you reach a walled place called Likdro, where a
market is held every other day. All the country is thickly wooded and
uncultivated.
9th. Between nine and ten o'clock in the morning, after having crossed a rivu
let which sometimes presents difficulty in the rainy season, you arrive at
Zariya.
10th. About noon arrive at a village called Ungwa A'rende. Small water-pools
on the road.
11th. About eleven o'clock A.M. reach Kasellu, a walled place with the wall in
a state of decay, and with a market held every other day.
12th. About the same hour arrive at Gimba, a large walled place, but thinly in
habited.
13th. Reach Matari, a large place. Between Gimba and Matari, nearer the latter,
is a kiirremi, which during tbe rainy season can be crossed only in boats.
14th. Kabi, a considerable walled market-place.
15th. Reach a small village called Kasabd, situated on a mountain range run
ning eastward. The whole country is mountainous ; and a little before
you reach Kasabd you pass a high mountain with a village on its top.
16th. Encamp in the forest called "Dawa-n-serki-n-Fawa," where there is a
kurremi, dry during the hot season.
17th. A small village of the district Kadara, ravaged by the Fulbe.
18th. During the dry season you reach a place called Jere (not Tere), while in
the rainy season you encamp on the shore of the Gurara, the chief
branch of the Kaduna, which can not be crossed but in boats. The
country mountainous.
19th. Reach a small village called Kamane ; country mountainous.
20th. A small place called Kateri, situated on a kogi, with water at all seasons
of the year, and well wooded. It joins the Gurara.
21st. A straggling village called Gdla-minda, inhabited entirely by Fulbe or
FeUani. The country level, with mountains in the distance.
* BeMjI has been visited, and probably astronomically fixed, by Mr. Vogel.

ROUTE FROM ZA'RIYA TO DARRO'RO. 613
Day- 22d. Kogaro, a considerable market-place ; country mountainous, irrigated by
many streamlets.
23d. Fajari, a small place with a wall in decay ; country level, with plenty of
water.
24th. Bagaji, a considerable walled market-place.
25th. Keffi-n-Abdezenga, a large place, where a market is held every day. The
country in general is flat, with a high mountain to the west. Plenty of
water-courses.
Ldfiya Berebere, originally a colony of the Bdrnu people, called Berebere by
theHausawa, is five days E.S.E. from Keffi-n-Abdezenga, and two days and a
half from a place called Toni, between Darrdro and Keffi. Darrdro was visited
by Eichard Lander, who calls it Danroro ; but this place, as well as the import
ant place Katab (called by him Kuttup), has been laid down very erroneously
from his indications. I therefore give here the
Boute from Zariya bt Katab to Darroro ; first part S.E., then S.S.E.
Day. 1st. Egebbi (called Ejibi by Lander), a place surrounded with a wall, but not
of large size.
2d. Dawaki, a middle-sized place, lying west from Kauru, a town which we
shall soon connect with Kand. About one day south from Dawaki lies
a mountainous district, with the village Libelle, inhabited by pagans.
3d. Shaffero, a place surrounded with a wall, and dependent on Kauru. The
inhabitants are said to eat dogs.
4th. Encamp on the bank of the River Kaduna (baki-n-Kaduna), with a village
N.E. from the river.
7th. Katab, a district consisting of a great number of hamlets, very rich in
honey, and with a good cultivation of sorghum, millet, cotton, and sesa
mum. A small rivulet or torrent intersects the district running toward
the north. Pass the two preceding nights in two small villages, the
names of which my informant had forgotten ; most probably they are
identical with Gidan Bakaya (not G. Banaya) and Kala. One long day's
march N.E. from Katab is the pagan district Shawe, wherein the Kaduna
is said to take its rise.
8th. Kaje, a village situated on the top of a hill, other villages being scattered
about in the plain.
9th. Dangdma, a small slave-village belonging to Darrdro, situated on the top
of a mountain. About the middle of your day's march you cross the
River Gurara, running through a deep valley, and forming a cascade at
some distance N.E. from Darrdro. It runs westward, though in a very
winding course, and joins the Kaduna near the town of Gwari. This
is evidently the river which Lander calls Rari, and which, its course not
being accurately observed by him, as he had to cross it repeatedly, has
given rise to that unfortunate theory of Captain William Allen with re
gard to the connection of the Chadda with Lake Chad, or rather Tsad.
10th. Darrdro, a town in a strong position, surrounded with an artificial wall
only on the north side ; still belonging to the province of Zegzeg. At
some distance from it, in the plain, there is a new Fellani settlement

614 APPENDIX.
called Jemma'a-n-Darrdro ; the word jemma'a, or, as it is generally pro
nounced, jemmara, "the congregation," being the characteristic word
for the religious and political reformation of the Fulbe. There is a di
rect road from Katab to Jemma'a, passing by the small open place called
" Madawaki-n-mutuwa," where the mountainous district commences.
It was in Darrdro that Richard Lander thought that he was but a few
miles distant from Yakoba, the capital of Bauchi, while in reality he
seems to have been, in a direct line, about one hundred miles distant
from it ; and as this line, owing to the mountainous nature of the coun
try, and the wild and unsubdued spirit of its pagan inhabitants, is not
passable, he was about a hundred and sixty miles from it by the ordi
nary track.
The Route from Jemma'a-n-Darroro to Keffi-n-Abdezenga, with the
branch Road to Lafiya Berebere.
Day. 1st. Kogdm, a small place on the slope of the mountain, and inhabited by
slaves. The neighborhood is thickly covered with forest, through which,
on the west side of the village, the Gurara winds along, being here nav
igable for boats, at least in the rainy season. Arrive at noon.
2d. Gwari-n-kurremi, a large open place in the wilderness ; no hills. A small
torrent runs N.W. in the direction of Kateri. About noon.
3d. Toni, a large walled place with much cultivation and many hamlets dot
ting the neighborhood ; about noon. From hence a road leads to Lafiya
Berebere in three days, S.E.
4th. Likdro, a large town with a clay wall ; the houses built half of clay, half
of shibki ; a good day's march. There is another more circuitous way
from Toni to Likdro, passing by Tonung-madaki, a place situated in a
valley with much forest, and not far north from two places surrounded
with clay walls, one of which is called Tonung-wambay — and by " Gulbi-
n-tunka," a small open place with much cultivation, which has received
this name from the Hausa travelers on account of its being situated on
a small stream (gulbi) running northward.
5th. Keffi-n-Abdeze'nga, a large town surrounded with a clay wall, and situated
at the eastern foot of the mountains ; the town partly yumbu, partly
shibki. Arrive about dhohor.
Routes uniting Keffi-n-Abdezenga with Toto and Fanda.
From Keffi-n-Abdezenga to Toto there are several roads, the stations of which
are at the following places :
Day. 1st. Gongdndara, a large place with a wall in decay. Plenty of water ; the
mountains are at some distance.
2d. Gwagwa, a middle-sized town surrounded with a clay wall; to the east a
considerable mountain group.
3d. Tamma, a large walled place in a plain with much water.
4th. Ddgeri, a place of middle size, the frontier-place (in 1851) of the extensive
province of Zegzeg, and of the independent kingdom of Fanda.*
" F&nda, conquered in 1853 by the Fulbe of Zariya by treachery.

ROUTES TO TO'TO AND FATSTDA. 615
Day.
5th. O'gobe, a large walled market-place belonging to Tdto.* The neighbor
hood is a plain abounding in water.
6th. Gand, a considerable open place ; country flat ; plenty of trees, particularly
of those called maja.
7th. Enter Toto in the morning.
Another road, sometimes uniting with the former, at others diverging from it,
passes by the following places :
Day. 1st. Yankarde ; short march.
2d. Gwagwa ; short march.
3d. Bdkoko.
4th. A large village of the Basa ; about noon.
5th. A large town situated in a plain, and surrounded with a clay wall ; the
inhabitants speak the Basa language, but pay tribute to Zariya. My in
formant called this town Gorgdndara ; but I think he must be mistaken.
6th. Wiri, a large open place with much cultivation of corn ; the whole coun
try is flat. Arrive about noon.
7th. Kargo, a village. The country level, and covered with forest.
8th. Gwari-n-Kargo, a village, the frontier-p'lace of the territory of Zegzeg (that
is to say, in 1851 ; but since the end of the year 1853 it appears, both
from what Dr. Baikie and his companions learned on their interesting
and successful expedition up the River Benuwe, and from what I myself
heard on my return to Kand from my journey to Timbuktu, that the
Fulbe, partly by treachery, partly by warfare, have made great progress
in this direction, extending their depredations to the very bank of the
river). A small stream or torrent skirts the side of the village, running
toward the Kaduna ; here is more cultivation. Arrive in tbe forenoon.
9th. Another open village of the Basa, with a good deal of cultivation; arrive
about noon.
10th. Ungwa Liming, a small village inhabited by the people of the Prince of
Toto ; rocky ground, and a small rivulet or brook.
11th. About two o'clock in the afternoon arrive in Tdto, a large town protected
on the west side by a woody faddama or valley,, and on the other sides
surrounded with a clay wall. The town is said to be of about the same
enormous dimensions as Kand (that is to say, about fifteen miles in cir
cuit), but more densely inhabited, and divided into two distinct quar
ters, the western and the eastern, the former being inhabited by the na
tives, or the Katawa,t as they are called by the Hausa people, who have
a distinct language (probably related to the Basa and Nupe languages),
and are pagans; while the eastern quarter is the dwelling-place of the
Moslemin, viz., people from Katsena, Kand, and Bdrnu, who have a
chief for themselves, called El Imam, a name corrupted by the Hausa
people into that of Liming. This Liming is regarded in general by the
travelers as the prince, but, according to more accurate information, the
town and province of Tdto seems to be under the direct government of
' Is this town identical with the place called by the Hausafataki " gari-n-serki-n-FSwa ?"
t Katawa is the Hausa name for the people of I'gbira, the country itself being called Katu or
Koti, as in Kotu-n-karfi=iron district, Eugga-n-Kotu.

616 APPENDIX.
Day. the Sultan of Tanda (not Fanda), whose name is Shemmage, and who
receives a great quantity of European goods, chiefly muskets, which form
his strength, from the inhabitants of Tigara or Kotu-n-karfi, as the dis
trict is generally called by the Hausa people, near the junction of the
Benuwe with the Kwara. This prince, by his energy and watchfulness,
had kept the conquering Fulbe in awe ; and he prohibited, with the ut
most diligence, suspicious people from being admitted into his town.
He may therefore, even after the fall of Fanda or Panda, which was in
a wretched condition, and was taken by treachery in the beginning of
1853, have preserved his independence ; but I am not quite sure about
it. Be this as it may, surrounded on all sides by enemies, he will
scarcely be able to hold out long. Tdto, as far as I was able to make
out (although there does not appear to have ever been much intercourse
between the two towns), is distant from Fanda from thirty to thirty-five
miles E.N.E. It is, besides, three days from Kotii-n-karfi, a place the
position of which is well established, and four days from Sansan Ederisu,
a place likewise well known from the Niger expeditions, so that we can
place Tdto with tolerable exactness.
I here subjoin the itinerary from Tdto to Sansan Ederisu
1st. Zingd-n-kari, a village inhabited by Nupe people, and situated in a valley
tolerably wooded.
2d. Agiya, a large town surrounded with a clay wall, dependent on the gov
ernor of Zariya, but inhabited by Niipe people. Soon after you leave
Zingd-n-kari in the morning, you cross a river called Gurma by my in
formant, who crossed it in a boat ; it runs northward. The country is
well cultivated, and many villages are scattered about.
3d. Kurremi, a town surrounded with a stockade and a clay wall, but of smaller
size than Agiya. A small rivulet, not navigable, skirts the town, run
ning northward ; it is called Kudduba.
4th. Sansan Ederisu, a large open village not far from the shore of the Kwara,
opposite E'gga. The country well cultivated.
I will now join Katab with Kand.
Route from Kano to Katab.
1st. Bebeji, the town mentioned above ; in the morning you cross a small wa
ter-course, with a village on its south border, called Baki-n-kogf, then
pass Gdra, and in the afternoon Midobi, with a brook running toward
Bebeji ; arrive here at sunset.
2d. Biuda, a large town surrounded with a clay wall, and lying around a
rocky eminence. In the morning cross the rivulet Kaminda. A short
march. Bauda is the furthest town of Kand in this direction.
3d. Pake, an open place on a deep rivulet, which (often) is not fordable ; it
runs westward, and seems to be identical with the kogi-n-Kubututu,
which is crossed on the road from Bebeji to Zariya, near the village
A'nsho. There are several small hamlets on the road side, but culti
vation is not very extensive. Arrive a little after noon.
4th. Kd-zintu, a walled place, the huts consisting of reeds ; arrive at noon.
No village on the road, but a good deal of cultivation.

ROUTE FROM KANO' TO YA'KOBA. 617
Day.
5th. Zintu, a large walled place with clay houses, on a considerable rivulet
passing by Zariya, and running westward. It is said not to be fordable
(probably only in the rainy season), two boats being constantly employed
for carrying over travelers. It has no fish. I think it is the same river
with the kogi-n-Gedia, which is crossed on the road from Kand to Sa-
bdngari. A short march.
6th. Kiuru, a large town surrounded with a clay wall, and lying on a consider
able and navigable rivulet running eastward (not westward) ; arrive in
the afternoon. The country is covered with dense forest.
7th. ShafFero, the village mentioned in p. 613.
8th. Gida-n-bakaya, an open village inhabited by pagans, but under the do
minion of the Fulbe ; arrive at noon, having crossed in the morning the
Kaduna running westward. The country very woody.
9th. Katab ; pass in the morning the village Kala.
Route from Kano to Yakoba.
1st. You arrive early in the forenoon at Sakwa, a place situated on a running
stream called " kogi-n-Sikwa." In the morning you pass the village of
Dawaki. Sakwa was visited by Clapperton.
2d. About two o'clock P.M. arrive at Dell, a considerable town, said to be
larger than Tasawa, after having passed another populous place, not
much less than Dell, called Gerko. The whole country is well culti
vated ; and there is but little jeji, or uncultivated land on the road. In
Rdro, S.W. about one day from Dell, there are mines.
3d. A little after noon arrive at Parna, a place not so large as Dell, and situ
ated at the foot of a mountain, by the side of a small rivulet. During
the morning you pass a village named Gedia, between which and Pima
there is a little wilderness.
4th. At noon you arrive at a place called Tebki (probably so called from a
pond), situated at the foot of the mountains, and the frontier place be
tween the province of Kand and that of Bauchi. The whole march leads
through a wild mountainous country, covered with wood.
5th. Arrive in the morning at Sabd-n-gari, a place situated in the plain, and
important on account of the road from Zariya (the details of which I
shall directly subjoin) joining in this place the track which leads from
Kand. The country is well cultivated, and the people during the rainy
season dwell iu huts, scattered through the fields, while during the dry
season they retire to the tops of the mountains. Soon after leaving
Tebki in the morning, you cross a small brook, and then pass a place
called Shebshi.
6th. A place whose name I can not make out at present.
7th. Zarinda, a considerable village situated in the plain, while toward the
east rises a very lofty mountain mass, said to be the highest mountain
in Boldbold or Bauchi. The whole country is under cultivation ; and
hamlets or small villages are met in every direction. Close to Zarinda
is a rivulet, said by my informant to run eastward.* Arrive in the after
noon. * This is entirely confirmed by Mr. Vogel's recent exploration.

618 APPENDIX.
Day.
8th. Yikoba (thus the name is generally pronounced, although more correctly
the accent ought to be given to the second syllable, thus Yakoba, or,
rather, Yaktiba), the capital of the province of Boldbold or Bauchi, found
ed- by Yakub, the father of the present governor Ibrahima. Selman
(properly 'Othmin), the name given by this informant to the governor,
is, I think, the name of his brother, who, during his long absence, has the
government of the town. The town is large, and has twelve gates ; there
is no running water near the town, and the inhabitants supply themselves
from rifona, or hollows. All the country is under cultivation, and the
neighborhood is rich in hamlets. The road keeps along the plain, all
laid out in fields, shaded with trees.
The character of this town, which I have thus laid down from information,
has, in opposition to the prevalent opinion that Yakoba is situated on a river,
been entirely confirmed by Mr. Vogel's very important journey. Coming from
the east, he found Yikoba situated on a stony elevated level, without any run
ning stream, but well supplied with water, which collects round the walls of the
town. He has found its position to be 10° 47' 30" N. lat., and 9° 28' 0" E. of
Gr. In consequence of the long absence of the governor Ibrahima (who, having
sworn not to return to his capital until he shall have subdued a warlike pagan
tribe, has been living now seven years in his "sansinne," or encampment, about
65 miles N.N.W. from the capital), Mr. Vogel found Yakoba rather thinly in
habited He has not yet forwarded an account of the elevation of this place ;
but I believe that it will not be much less than two thousand feet.*
Route from Katab to Yakoba.
Day. 1st. About 'aser reach Alhijji, a considerable village belonging to the province
of Zegzeg, and situated at the west foot of a mountain. The whole
road leads through forest.
2d. About noon arrive at Sabd-n-birni, a small village consisting of shibki.
The road is partly covered with forest, and partly cultivated; but there
are no villages, the people, during the rainy season, coming from a great
distance to cultivate the country.
3d. About noon reach Riruwe, a considerable place surrounded by an earthen
wall, and having a well-attended market every Tuesday. Riruwe is at
a short distance south from Sabd-n-gari ; and many persons going from
Kand to Yakoba prefer joining this road and leaving the other at Sabd-
n-gari.
4th. About one o'clock P.M. reach U'mbutu or Mbutii, a village situated at the
foot of a mountain, on the top of which there is another place of the
same name. The inhabitants, who are very fierce, wear a bone stuck
through the chin. They do not pay any tribute to the Fellani of Zariya
nor to those of Yikoba, and constantly intercept the communication — as
happened, indeed, in 1851, during my stay in Kand. Near the first vil
lage is a rivulet which joins the Gurara, one of the tributary streams of
the Kwara. The whole march leads through forest.
5th. About one o'clock P.M. reach Wirji, a village situated at the foot of a
large mountain extending far to the west, on the top of which there are
* From Mr. Vogel's last letters it appears that the elevation is 2500 feet.

TERRITORY OF THE DO'MA. 619

Day

other villages of the same name, whose inhabitants wage war against the
FeUani. Informant states that the inhabitants of the valley pay tribute
to the Governor of Kand ; but I think he means that of Bauchi. Cattle
of a particular kind, called muturu, are frequent here, much smaller than
the ox, with shorter legs, without the hump, and of a gray color. I saw
a specimen of this kind afterward in Kukawa.
6th. About 'aser reach Melanlawel, a considerable place with a clay wall, situ
ated in the plain at the S.E. foot of the large mountain mass already
mentioned. The whole country is laid out in cultivated fields.
7th. After 'aser arrive at Zaranda ; the country partly wild and partly culti
vated.
8th. At noon reach Yakoba.
I now proceed to give the routes from different points, obtained by the con
struction of the former itineraries, and corrected also by the recent observations
of European travelers, to Wukari, the capital of that very interesting country
Kororofa, which, unfortunately, was not reached by the late expedition on the
River Benuwe.
Close to Lafiya Berebere begins the territory of the Ddma, the capital of which,
called likewise Ddma (at least by my informants), is only one day from Lafiya,
and five days from Keffi-u-Abdezenga, the road from this latter place to Ddma
passing by Hariri, a large town still dependent upon Zariya, and distant three days
from the former, and two from the latter town. This Ddma is a large walled
town, but already in the year 1851 its governor was obliged to pay a small trib
ute to the Governor of Zariya. A great number of Nyffiwa, or people from
Nupe, are said to live here.
From Ddma there seem to be two roads to Wukari, although I frankly con
fess that the information which I obtained with regard to them, as well as to
other parts of Kororofa, was not so clear as I might have wished. One of these
routes crosses the river at a spot called Chinkay ; the other does not name the
ferry. Chinkay is not among the places laid down hereabouts in the survey of
the Benuwe expedition, but it is evidently either identical with, or near to
Anyishi. From Ddma my informant goes to Kdbere ; thence to Kaderku (the Bridge),
a town belonging to Ddma ; thence to Kiyana or Keina, a considerable market
place, which he calls " birni-n-Kordrofa, kasa-n-Bauchi," the inhabitants paying
tribute as well to the Pullo governor of Bauchi as to the native king of Kororofa.
From this place, which is often mentioned in the proceedings of the Benuwe ex
pedition, my informant goes to Tunga, which he calls " Gari-n-gisheri," stating
the memorable fact, not mentioned in these proceedings, that salt is obtained
there. Close to Tunga is a kogi or rivulet joining the Benuwe, or rather, I think,
a creek of the river. My informant then crosses the river and reaches Chinkay,
which lies at a little distance — as he states, in a southerly direction — from a
large place called Owi. From Chinkay he proceeds to A'kkona, which is evi
dently identical with the Akkwana of Crowther, who, however, does not mention
the interesting fact that " kohol" or antimony is obtained there ; from A'kkona
to Jiddu (a place not mentioned by Crowther), in a locality with small rocky
mounts starting up from the plain ; thence to A'rfu, and thence again to Wukari.

620 APPENDLX.
The other shorter route (if, indeed, it be complete) goes from Ddma to Minchi,
which is called " Birni kasa-n-Kiyana," a walled town of the territory of the
Kiyana; thence to Agaya (evidently different from the place of the same name
between Tdto and E'gga, and therefore by one of my informants called " Minchi-
n-Agaya); from this directly to A'rfu, crossing the Benuwe somewhejre below
Anyishi ; thence by Fiya to Wukari.
I now give an itinerary from Darrdro to Wukari, unfortunately of the same
abridged and incomplete character. Proceeding at a slow rate with short sta
tions, my informant goes first to a large place called Ziingur ; thence crossing a
small rivulet, which he calls by the very unscientific name of " kogi-n-Mamiidu"
(the river of Makhmud), to Dull, a large but dilapidated place dependent on
Yakoba ; thence to Gar, a small place in a mountainous district ; thence to Bur-
rum, the country continuing mountainous ; thence to Gembat ; thence to Waze,
a very large town, said (probably with some exaggeration) to be as large as
Kand, and the residence of a governor or chief named Hamma ben 'Abdu. It
stands upon a mountain or hill, and a river or creek is said to skirt the town.
This important place can be reached in three good days' marches from Yako
ba, sleeping the first night, after a very long and fatiguing day's journey through
a mountainous country (granite, as it seems), in Gasge, a town, as large as
Ngdrnu, inhabited by Fulbe and native pagans, and the second in Yiinguru.
Yiinguru is a town inhabited by the conquering tribe, while the native pagans
live in straggling villages along the valleys. This is another long day's march,.
and the country mountainous. The third day's journey is shorter, and Waze is
reached after about eight hours' march. In the dry season at least, when the
river may be easily crossed either by swimming or even occasionally by fording
it, a good tourist will reach Wukari from Wize in one day. My informant, pro
ceeding at a slow rate, and perhaps not in a direct line, went from this to Dim-
par, a place near the Benuwe, where it has come under the notice of the Benuwe
expedition; then, crossing several creeks which he calls "rafi-n-ddrina," and
"kogi-n-Deni," and the river itself, passed the places Makera, Use (a small vil
lage in the plain), then Aikiri (with a kogi) and a place which he calls Zangd
Ladan (probably the station, " zangd," where a toll or tax, " ladan," is paid), and
thus at length reached the capital Wukari.
I have also a soi-disant itinerary from Lafiya Berebere to Wukiri ; but I will
only name the places situated on this route without stating the order in which
they succeed each other. These are Ovi, which seems to be a large town dis
tant one day from A'zzara, which is said to be west from Aikiri, the place men
tioned above ; then Kibi, Ddya, ATione, Airo, Kanje, Agwatishi, Deddere.
I will now say a few words about Wukari, the capital of Kororofa, which it is
much to be regretted that the last expedition on the river was unable to reach ;
but the next will, I hope, be more successful in this respect,* if they have the
good fortune of finding the country still in a flourishing state. Even the name
of this important place was scarcely knownf before my researches in 1851, while
the name of the country, Kororofa, though well known to former geographers,
* Mr. Vogel also, though some time at Zibu, which he calls Chubum, has not been able to
reach that important place (the name of which he writes Okale), on account of the flooded state
of the country.
t There is some faint indication of such a place in Dnpuis' Researches, and its name, as
Okare, is mentioned by William Allen.

WUKA'RI. 621
had been erased from recent maps. Wukari was placed in my map close to the
river, a few miles only too far north and east ; but had I been able to correct it
according to my latest information, from which I learned that it lay not on tho
main river itself, but on a small branch,* I should have laid it down exactly in
the right position.
Wukari lies on the west side of a small rivulet, called, by my Hausa inform
ants, "kogi-n-Kalam," which is said to join the Benuwe, or, as the great river is
called in at least one of the dialects of Kororofa, which seems not to have come
under the notice of the expedition, " Zanfir." In a straight line, Wukari is only
a good morning's walk ("tafiyan hantsi") — that is, about ten miles — from the
shores of the Benuwe. The town is said to be very large, even larger than Kand ;
not, however, like the latter, embracing a wide extent of fields, but densely in
habited to the very walls. The people do not drink the water of the rivulet
which skirts their town, but supply their wants from ponds in its interior, proba
bly like those in Kand. They are distinguished by their dark complexion, and
features not disfigured by shashawa or tattooing, by their long hair and their
neat shirts, or rather plaids, " zenne," which they wrap round the body. Indeed,
the inhabitants of Kororofa are celebrated all over this part of Africa for their
cotton cloth, which is said to be of very fine texture, but also very narrow, being
only the breadth of two fingers. They are said to have a peculiar kind of cotton,
called " worzi" by the Arabs, and mentioned already by that accurate and prince
ly geographer, Abu 'Obed Allah el Bekri, in 1068, though without naming the
district of Negroland, where the plant grew,f and not without some exaggeration.
There seems to be a kind of coffee indigenous to the country. A great deal of
ddya, or yam, is cultivated ; and ayaba (Musa paradisiaca) seems to be the most
common tree in the southern provinces. The only essential defect under which
this nation suffers, besides their division into many separate tribes, seems to be
the despotism of the government, which evidently checks also the energy of the
people in defending their independence against the restless Fulbe, who are con
stantly gaining ground, and, if her Britannic majesty's government do not hasten
to interfere, will in a very short time take possession of this kingdom.
All the handicrafts, as those of blacksmiths, saddlers, &c, are under the im
mediate control of the king, and can be exercised only by his own people. He
monopolizes the foreign trade, none of his subjects having a right to buy. The
name of the present king is said to be A'nju Zenki. His authority, nevertheless,
does not now seem to extend, in reality, far beyond the walls of Wukari ; and
the Hiusa traders, while they give him the title of " serki-n-gulbi" (lord of the
river), call the governor of Chdnkoy or Gdnkoy " serki-n-gero" (lord of the
corn, or rather millet), intimating that the country towns are rather in the hands
of this latter prince. The inhabitants of Wukari, as well as of the towns in the
interior, are expressly stated to be armed only with spears, none but the people
near the banks of the Benuwe using bows. Small articles are bought and sold
for iron hoes, called " alrika," of which forty will buy a slave ; more valuable
objects are bartered for salt or clothes.J
* This information, received after I had laid down the map, was, however, indicated by Mr.
Petermann in the notes accompanying his Atlas, p. 11.
t Notices et Extraits, torn, xii., p. 650.
t A large piece of native cloth of Kwdna manufacture, very interesting to those who feel real

622 APPENDLX.
East, about one day's journey from Wukari, are said to be Juggum and Gdn-
koy : Juggum is the name of a considerable place ; but as for Gdnkoy, I was un
able to ascertain whether it was the name of a district or a town. Gdnkoy is
said to be three days and a half from Bu-manda, the stations on the road being
at the villages or towns of U'riyd, U'rbo, then, near the mayo, Mantije (?), Bu-
manda being reached on the fourth day ; and I have another itinerary leading
from Bu-manda to Juggum in five days, through a country desolated by those
predatory wars by which the Fiilbe are so distinguished. Only one day before
reaching Juggum there is a place inhabited by pagans called Ginte. I will fur
ther mention here some places around Wukari; though, from the imperfect char
acter of my information, I am not able to lay them down on the map, neverthe
less I hope a list of them will prove useful to the next expedition up the river.
Along the south side of the river are said to lie east from Gdnkoy the places
Balli, Jiibu, Tinto ; one day south from Wukiri the town Kdnte ; then westward,
and toward the northwest, the following places, some of them on the north side
of the Benuwe : Kurgoy (a walled town), U'ngosilla, Torifia, A'kata (near a
rivulet, the residence of a chief called Jimmi), Konde, Bembem, Minchi-n- Agiya
(on the north side of the Benuwe), Katsena Alia (a name most probably corrupt
ed by the Hiusa traders), a large town situated on the east side of a river or
rivulet. Between Kitsena Alia and Fanda there are said to be the following
places : Zangd kogi'-n-Alla (a whimsical fataki name — that .is to say, used by
the native traders), with Minchi or Munchi (Mitsi) inhabitants, Duchi-n-Dikku
(a place situated between two mountains), the town Gedimmir, and the town
A'yirku-n-girke. Kororofa does not appear to be the native name either of the country or of the
tribe; but I can not exactly say whether it only originates with the Hausa
traders, and whether the name Djuku or Juku applies to the whole nation or
only to a portion of it. Babai or Baibai, I think, is not the original native name
of the people, but only an appellation given them by the Hausa traders. There
are certainly several different dialects prevailing in the country, since that of
which I wrote down some hundred words from the mouth of the Koina or Kwana
A'bbade, a native of the village Bu-manda, appears to have very little, if any,
relation to the Tiwi of Koelle, or the Mitsi of Crowther, or to any other men
tioned by them ; but it must be borne in mind that the gentlemen composing the
expedition seem not to have collected any specimens whatever of the Djiiku,
which they themselves state to be the language of Kororofa, and I feel satisfied
that the dialect spoken by the Kwana differs but little from that of the people
of Wukiri. The Kwana (called Koniwa by the Hiusa people), at least those
of Juggum, have the curious and disgusting custom of forming an artificial ulcer
behind the ear, which in Waday is the distinguishing mark of valor. They wear
white and black shirts, and have horses and cattle. They cultivate various
species of Negro corn, and have many large trees. This same informant of
mine, A'bbade, named to me the following divisions of the Kordrofa, which I
give here as an imperfect notice, hoping that it may lead succeeding travelers
to further inquiries and to clearer information : the Agawi, Jimmolo, Churibolo
concern for the state of industry among tho native Africans, was forwarded to England by the
Vizier of Bdrnu at my urgent request.

ROUTE TO BOBE'RU.

623

(the second syllable is not clear in my manuscript journal), Bashikkiri, Jemsali,
Bakawelino, Kewe, Ndau, Binderi, Jiufeni.
Having given what little information I have been able to gather with regard
to that interesting region on the River Benuwe, I now proceed to subjoin a few
details illustrating the geography of the provinces between Yikoba and Kati
gum ; for the country between the former place and the Benuwe will, I hope,
soon be amply illustrated by Mr. Vogel's observations, who seems to have trav
ersed the triangular tract of country inclosed between Gdmbe, Yikoba, and Ha-
mirruwa in several directions, and to have come into intimate, though at times
hostile, contact with the natives. The position of Gdmbe, which he has fixed
by astronomical observations in lat. 10° 49' N., and long. 10° 16' E., is an im
portant check upon the construction of the materials obtained by me with regard
to this tract of country ; and I openly confess that, with regard to Gdmbe, which
I had no means of connecting with a southern point, I have erred in laying it
down much too far south, while with respect to the latitude assigned by me to
Hamarruwa, which I was able to connect with Ydla, I have scarcely erred a sin
gle mile — a result which I hope will inspire some confidence in my numerous
geographical deductions from native information.
I start from Katigum, a place twice visited by Captain Clapperton, and laid
down by him correctly, no doubt, with regard to latitude, while with regard to
longitude it has to be shifted, as I shall elsewhere show, about forty geograph
ical miles further west.
Route from Katagum to Gombe, the Capital of Boberu.
Day. 1st. Early in the morning, between nine and ten o'clock, you reach Sdkkuwa,
a large place surrounded by an earth wall on the western bank of the
"kogi-n-Katigum," the water of which is used by the inhabitants for
drinking. In the dry season there is no stream of running water, but
merely stagnant pools. The houses of Sdkkuwa are built partly of
yumbu (clay), partly of shibki (reed). A market is held here every Sat
urday. On the road many small villages are passed.
2d. About eleven o'clock arrive at Keffi, a large village surrounded by a stock
ade, and belonging to the province of Katigum. Many small villages
on the road.
3d. An hour after noon reach Hardawa, a large place surrounded with a clay
wall, also under Katigum. On tbe road are many villages. The soil
consists of sand, and trees are scarce.
4th. Arrive at Mesau, a large place surrounded with a clay wall, capital of the
province of the same name, and residence of a governor whose name, or
rather title, at present is Yerima. The houses consist of clay walls with
thatched conical roofs, the palace of the governor alone being built en
tirely of earth. A considerable market is held here every Friday. It
seems very remarkable that the inhabitants of this town are said to be
all Fulbe or FeUani. The soil all around consists of sand.
5th. About noon Dirasd, a large walled place belonging to the province of
Biuchi, to the capital of which leads a frequented route from hence,
which I shall subjoin immediately. In the morning you cross a rivulet
in the midst of the forest.

624 APPENDIX.
Day.
6th. About two or half past two o'clock P.M. reach Tawiya, a large place with
an earthen wall now in decay ; most of the inhabitants pagans ; the
whole country covered with dense forest. N.B. — The road from Dirasd
turns a little east from south.
7th. Early in the morning, about nine o'clock, arrive at Gdmbe, a large walled
place and the capital of the province Boberu, which is said to have re
ceived its name from the late governor; the name of the present one is
Koriyenga ; his house is the only good building in the town.
Route from Dabaso to Yakoba.
1st. About the 'aser reach Sdro, a small open place situated at the western foot
of a rock. The road lies through a mountainous country, the first half
of it being thickly wooded.
2d. About one o'clock P.M. arrive at Kirfi, a large open place at the foot of
the rocks, inhabited entirely by pagans. The whole road is intersected
by high mountains with perennial springs.
3d. About eleven o'clock A.M. reach Tyrrem, a large open place surrounded
by mountains toward the east and south. On the road you pass several
small villages situated on the tops of the mountains, and inhabited by
pagans.
4th. Early in the morning, about nine o'clock, arrive at Yikoba ; all the road
mountainous, the tops of the mountains being inhabited.
N.B. — The route from Gdmbe to Yikoba I shall not give, as my imperfect
itinerary will, I hope, soon be superseded by the rich materials of Mr. Vogel and
his companion Corporal Macguire. I have, however, many materials for the
district hereabout, which may be laid down with great approximative certainty
as soon as an accurate basis is obtained by Mr. Vogel's route. For the same
reason I will not give the itinerary from Gdmbe to Gujeba, but only connect one
important point of this route — Dukku, which I hope will have been touched at
by my friend — with Ydla.
This route from Ydla to Dukku is very dangerous, and is not now taken by
the Fulbe ; but such was the case in the times of their greatest youthful vigor.
I will only observe that Dukku lies one day and a half E. by N. from Gdmbe.
My informant, M'allem Katuri, starts from Ydla.
Day. 1st. After crossing the Benuwe, pass though the mountainous district of the
Zena.
2d. District of the U'rgeni, another pagan tribe living on the mountains.
3d. District of the Tingale, a tribe with whom Mr. Vogel has, on his more
western route from Hamarruwa to Gdmbe, come in contact.
4th. Finda, another pagan tribe.
5th. Dembe.
6th. Chongdm. All these are independent pagan tribes, the country being
mountainous. Road very unsafe.
7th. Tera, a settlement of the Fulbe of Boderu ; here security commences.
8th. I'na, a large town of pagans in a state of subjection. At the foot of the
mountains is a torrent running west, sometimes not fordable ; it proba
bly joins the northern branch of the Benuwe.

ROUTE TO SHEltA. 625
Day.
9th. Kimbo, a pagan village.
10th. Kom, a pagan village.
Uth. Dukku.
Diikku is two days from Gdmbe :
1st. Wingele.
2d. Gdmbe, the present residence of Kdriyenga, the son of Boberu, the Piillo
conqueror, from whom the province has received its name, and the broth
er of Suley. It is situated on the south side of a large water-course
called Nifada. This place was visited by Mr. Vogel in 1855, and found
from observation to be in lat. 10° 49' N., long. 10° 16' E. from. Gr.
Route from Katagum to Shera, S.S.W.
1st. About 'aser reach Gubu, a large open place belonging to the province of
Katigum. The country open, partly cultivated and inhabited, and part
ly covered with forest.
2d. About eleven o'clock reach U'zum, a small open village belonging to the
province of Katagum. The whole country well cultivated with numer
ous villages.
3d. About noon arrive at Shera, a considerable place, tbe capital of a province
of the Fulfulde empire of Sokoto, and residence of a governor. The
place is fortified by nature, its position among the rocks, which surround
it on all sides, leaving only a narrow approach from N.W. and S. ; other
wise there is no wall. Most of the houses are built partly of clay, part
ly of reeds, while the house of the governor consists entirely of clay.
Most, if not all of the inhabitants seem to belong to the race of the con
querors ; the consequence is, that there is neither industry nor commerce,
and the market is of no importance.
I here subjoin a list of the more important places of the province of Shera or
Shira, from which it will appear that this territory, although heretofore scarcely
known by name, is not inconsiderable, though greatly reduced from its ancient
extent, when the whole district round Figam belonged to it. This comprises
the following places : Figam, birni-n-Mishi, Hdsobo-beraja, Gellaming, Ribadi,
Geretti, Dindang, Tdba, Matsingo, Yelku, Zumborum-daffatuwo. At the present
day there still belong to the province of Shera, besides the capital (likewise called
Shera), Kiirba, Geade, Doggo, Ddgwa, Kidgo, Kirgo, Rimi Tishiri, A'ndobim,
Ddgo-gawan, Ddgo-kawe, Ddgo-dekawen, Ddgo-duchi, Ddgo-bingare, Ddgo-
damwe, Dezina, Tungom, Gowila, Zibi, Sabawa, Byllum, Bechime (on a rock),
Danguzdzo, Yellwi gari-n-da-n-Hawa, Gumir, Zikkuwa, Jere'go, Chinnade, Har-
dawa (I can not say whether identical with the place of the same name men
tioned above), Goring (east from the latter), A'zere (with iron mines), Chinnade
madishi, Daliren, Kurke, Tumpere, Dunkowy, Pdngi, Zagedebi, Mdgonshi, Ga-
daber, Cherichera, Gadawu, Degi, Gore, Itesh, Jdga, Wdliya, Gdsame (" gari-n-
daffa karfi," place for smelting iron), Tsiudi, Koli ("uri-n-sariuta," "the seat
of [the old] government," where all the rulers of the country are buried), Sdfo-
n-gari, Gambani, Lajewi, Zibbek, Mishemi, Bangar£ti, Si'rko, Gimbaki, Kiwada,
Machi-n-kiya, Dingiya, gari-n-Mallinziki, Hirfi, U'ngoba or Ngobi, Gadarai-
ma, Kdndokd, Rasiwu, Kdrko, Birring, Minakd, Wddufa, Tsogu, Kurnokay,
Lafiya gari-n-Berdagungome (da-n-ghaladima Shera), Lanzeddguwa, Ajingara,
Vol. I.— E r

626 APPENDIX.
Zimmaga, Fdgo, Sawi sheli-n-jfka-n-Mallinzaki (the residence of the grandson
of MaUinzaki), Yiyu, Dagaro, Kukoki, Bilkichuwa, Fari-n-niwa, Kdsome, A'rza-
mu, Yakase, A'ffotu, Uzum Zindan, Jegis, Chdkkoti, Chafigo, Degagito, Gali-
nimari, Kidiya, Jindogo, Zagina, Gorin, Nasariwa, Killa.
I now subjoin the short itinerary from Shera to Yakoba, west a little south.
Day. 1st. Between one and two o'clock P.M. arrive at Fagam, a place larger than
Shera, surrounded with a clay wall, being the frontier town of the prov
ince of Kand toward the S.E. The country is flat.
2d. About eleven o'clock A.M. arrive at Ginjuwa, a large open place belong
ing to the province of Bauchi. All the houses, or rather huts, are built
of reed, only that of the governor consisting of clay. The country
mountainous, with many springs and pools of water ; large numbers of
palm-trees.
3d. About 'aser arrive at Yikoba ; the country mountainous.

X. — Collection of Itineraries passing through the various Districts
of A'damawa.
In endeavoring to describe the country by means of this net of routes, trav
ersing it in every direction and thus controlling each other, it will be the best
course first to connect Yola, the farthest point which I have been able to lay
down from my own observation, with Hamarruwa, the farthest point reached by
her majesty's steamer "Pleiad"* in September, 1854.
1. Routes from Hamarruwa to Yola.
(a.) Direct route ; very unsafe.
Day. 1st. Having crossed the Benuwe, encamp on the border of the mayo Baddre.
2d. A pagan village of the Zen a ; about four o'clock P.M.
3d. A village of Himidu (not the son of A'dama) ; a long day's journey ; the
whole country is mountainous.
4th. Lima, a settlement of the Fulbe ; about noon.
5th. Ydla ; in the morning.
(6.) Another direct route, a little more northerly.
1st. The miyo Baddre.
2d. Dutsi-n-miifula (the Capped Mountain), obviously a traveling name given i
by the Hiusa people to a mountain with a peculiar cone ; compare the
expression " shush el 'abid" (the Slave's Cap). Before noon.
3d. Bang, a settlement of pagans, on a mountain ; turn round its southern
side. A long day's journey.
" I have already observed with what accuracy I have laid down Hamarruwa with regard to
latitude, while the error of longitude is attributable to the false position of Kukawa, as estab
lished by Clapperton. With regard to the name of the town, I observe that I formerly wrote
Hamarrua ; and although for English readers it is certainly better to write it Hamarruwa, nev
ertheless I never heard It pronounced with a long u, but the accent waB always laid upon the
second syllable.

ROUTE TO KO-NCHA. 627
Day.
4th. Passam ; in the forenoon.
5th. About two o'clock P.M. encamp ; leave Lima at some distance south.
6th. Ydla; in the morning.
(c.) Route from Hamarruwa to Yola by way of Koncha.
This route makes a sharp angle. Direction, as far as Koncha, S. S.E, then N.E.
Day. 1st. Reach the River Benuwe about noon, and cross it in the boats of the
Kwina or Kwdna ; sleep in Kwaniri, a village on the south bank of the
river.
2d. Reach a pagan village under the protection of the Fulbe, and therefore
called by travelers Amina Barka, in a valley bordered by mountains ;
it belongs to the dominion of A'mba Sambo, the governor of Chimba.
3d. About sunset encamp in the wilderness.
4th. Zangd-n-gharama (a name given to the locality by the Hiusa traders,
meaning " the toll-station"), a village, the master of which, called by the
traders mai Chebchdma,* levies a considerable tax on the caravans.
" Masr," or the Egyptian durra, forms the principal food of the na
tives.
5th. Reach the residence of the chief Nyaging. Formerly travelers used to
make a stage in the village of Ardo Kesi, situated more to the north ;
but this custom has lately ceased.
6th. Mount Chebchi, stretching out to a great length, and crossing the path ;
encamp either on its summit or at its base, in the afternoon.
7th. Rumde 'Omiru, a slave village in the plain ; about noon.
8th. Koncha (probably so called because it belonged originally to the Kwdna or
Kwana), the residence of the governor Mohammed Jdbdi (not Gabdu), a
Pdllo, who is in a certain degree dependent on the Sultan of A'damiwa.
The place is large, being divided into three distinct quarters — that of
the Fulbe, that of the Kanuri, and a third inhabited by pagans ; but
the dwellings consist entirely of round conical huts, with the exception
of that of the governor himself, which is built of clay. The eastern side
of the town is skirted by the miyo Beli, which in the dry season is ford
able, but during the rains can be crossed only in a boat. It is tributary
to the Faro, and runs from Koncha to Liro, from this to the town of
Yaji about twelve miles west from Chimba, and having been joined
by the mayo I'li, which is said to come from I'mber five days south from
Koncha, in the territory of the Tek'a,f joins the River Faro at Rumde
Birka, a slave village of Ardo Yaji. This river is confounded by several
informants with the Deve, which joins the Firo at Bubadaddi. The
governor Mohammed Jdbdi is said to possess no less than 10,000 slaves.
East of the river, between it and the town, a conspicuous mount meets
the view. Koncha is a remarkable place, on account of the wild sugar-
i * Mai Chebchdma being the title of the chief, the original name of the place is probably
Chebchd. t According to another very intelligent informant, of the name of A'dama, a Pullo native
of A'damSwa, the river of Liro is joined by the miyo Chinega, which flows two days S.S.W.
from Chimba.

628 APPENDIX.
cane (not the sweet sort of Indian corn called sebbade in Kanuri), which
is said to grow here in great abundance.
9th. Laro, or more properly " Tirgade Liroma," a large settlement of the con
querors, governed by an officer of the seignior of Chimba, and situated
on the west side of the mayo Beli. When you leave Koncha you cross
the river, and then keep along its southeastern bank, but before enter
ing Liro you cross it again.
10th. Dirdiyu, a village inhabited conjointly by pagan natives and by Moham
medan Fulbe; the country level. About noon.
11th. Zingi, a place formerly belonging to the pagans Firang, but at present in
habited and ruled by the Fulbe. Numerous elephants and mouflons ; at
least so says my informant, who nevertheless may have mistaken buffa
loes or other animals for those peculiar to the desert.
12th. Reach Ydla, having traversed a well-inhabited country, and crossed a small
tributary of the Firo.
2. Route from Mora, the Capital of Mandara, to Yola.
Mora was found by Mr. Vogel, by observation, to be in lat. 10° 58' 38" N.,*
and in long. 12° 22' E. Gr.
Day. 1st. Mdgashe, a village of Mindari, of middling size, lying on the eastern side
of a range of mountains. Route S.E. ; arrive about noon.
2d. Fette,f a large Pullo settlement, and residence of a powerful chief called
Khiirsu.
3d. Malam, a large Pullo place, governed by a cousin of Khiirsu's, from whence
a shallow water-course runs eastward to join the ngiljam of Demmo (see
vol. ii.). The country is level ; arrive before noon. . From Fette you
turn S.W. Malim is a short day's journey N.W. from Bdgo, another
large Pullo settlement.
4th. Kdngala, a Pullo settlement, situated on the upper part of the same water
course.
5th. Mirruwa (pronounced by many people as if it were Marba), a large place,
the residence of M'allem Damraka, situated on the north side of a water
course which joins the river of Ldgone. On the north side a mountain
strikes the eye. Arrive before the heat of the day.
6th. Miskin, a large place, residence of Ardo Buba, situated on the same wa
ter-course. An isolated mountain (Mount Mindif ?) rises toward the
east, the country in general being level.
7th. Gazaba, a large place, and residence of Ardo Gazawa, an old man. It is
a market-place of some importance. Direction west. Arrive before the
heat of the day. Both places, Gizaba and Miskin, seem to lie in a line
west from Mount Mindif.
8th. Mbdla, a Pullo settlement, and residence of a son of Ardo Jidda, situated
* This place also furnishes another proof of the care with which I constructed my routes
from information, having changed the latitude of this place from 10° 15'i in which Denham had
placed it, to 11° 1' — an error of less than three miles. In the number of Mr. Vogel representing
the longitude, there seems to be an error.
t The situation of thiB place is controlled by its relation to my route to Musgu, and by the
distance from Woloje as well as by that from Wuliya. See vol. ii.

ROUTE FROM MORA' TO YO'LA. 629
Day. on the same water-course. The country level ; direction west. Arrive
about noon.
I here subjoin a short itinerary from Mdbi (see p. ooo) to Mbdla, in order
to connect this route with the track of my own journey to A'damiwa.
This road is mountainous and dangerous.
Day.1st. U'mshi, a pagan village. Arrive about two o'clock P.M., having
passed Ba, in the mountain group which I noticed on my jour
ney to A'damawa, and left Ji'mmi to the south. After having
cleared the mountains of Fingting, you turn E.N.E.
2d. Sinna, a village inhabited by Fulbe and native pagans ; about
noon.
3d. Mbdla, a Pullo settlement ; about noon.
9th. Lulu, a pagan village, the inhabitants of which do not disfigure their fea
tures by tattooing, and wear no barbarous sort of ornament, except a
small reed in the left ear, like the Marghi. Country mountainous ; no
water-courses. Direction, south. Arrive between ten and eleven o'clock.
10th. Mataba, a place situated in a mountainous district, inhabited by pagans
and Fulbe conjointly. The deleb-palm or dugbi, a species of Hyphaina,
grows here in great quantity, but only few dum-palms. The inhabitants
drink only from wells. Direction, south a little west. Arrival, about
four o'clock P.M. Mitabi lies on the road between Diba and Lam, a
little nearer the former.
11th. Gider, a place situated on the great pilgrim-road from Ydla eastward, and
inhabited by Fulbe and pagans conjointly. The whole country is mount
ainous, and only partly subjected. A water-course runs along the east
side of the village toward the miyo Kebbi. Arrive about noon.
12th. Heri, a village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Fall'. At some
distance, a water-course. The country mountainous. Direction, south.
Arrive in the morning.
13th. Biila, a Pullo settlement, residence of Ardo Badeshi, with a small water
course. Country mountainous. Short march south, very little west.
A few miles west from Biila is Badeshi, situated in a mountainous re
gion, and on the east side of the miyo Sarendi, which is said to come
from the south. In the distance, south, a place called Kachawu is seen
lying on a high mountain, with a water-course at its northern foot, which
joins, or rather is identical with, the miyo Kebbi ; this place possessing
very rich pasture-grounds, the cattle of Biila are driven there in time
of peace. Between Baila and Soriyi lies Bizer, about fifteen miles from
the former. Direction E.N.E.
14th. Nyawu, a village inhabited by the slaves of Janfura. Toward the west a
mountain range ; toward the east, country open. Short march S.W.
15th. Batema or Bazuma, the principal and central place of the tribe of the Fall,
at least in former times ; at present, residence of Sanfura, who has about
200 horse under his command. The place is skirted by the waters of
the miyo Dunde, which joins the miyo Kebbi. Toward the east is a
mountain. Short march a little south from west.
16th, Gewe, a large settlement of the Fulbe, situated on the N.E. bank of the

630 APPENDIX.
Day. Benuwe, a few miles below its junction with the miyo Kebbi. It is the
residence of the chief Sambo-Gewe, who commands about 100 horse.
A large mountain called Banawa, inhabited by pagans of the tribe of
Fali, overtowers the Benuwe. At a short distance from Gewe, a little
east from south, lies Ribigo — not to be confounded with the more im
portant place of the same name to be mentioned farther down, this Ri
bigo being the estate of M'allem Musa, the governor of Chebowa. In
the angle formed by the junction of the two rivers lies the village Dili,
and east from it another village called Lingi, the three places lying so
near each other that one may be seen from the other. A short day's
march west.
17th. Geweke, a small Pullo settlement, under the same chief as Gewe. On
starting from Gewe, cross the River Benuwe, and traverse a mountainous
country. Short journey, west.
18th. Bilonde, a plaoe principally, but not exclusively, inhabited by Fulbe, and
situated on the southern bank of the River Benuwe. Short march west.
Wth. Garuwa, a place inhabited by pagans of the Batta tribe. Arrive at noon,
having passed in the morning the village Baddde, situated likewise on
the south side of the Benuwe. North, or perhaps a little west from
north, of Giruwa lies Bingeli, at the foot of a mountain which is skirted
by the river, from which Garuwa itself lies about five miles distant.
There is another road from Gewe to Giruwa, which, though making a
circuit, is sometimes taken. Keeping first south, and leaving, after about
four hours' march, Dili on your left on the bank of the river, then turn
ing S.W., you reach Dukka in the evening, situated on the west bank
of a small rivulet and at the east foot of a large mountain ; from hence,
a day along the mountain N.W. brings you to Giruwa.
20th. Kdkomi, a considerable place, inhabited by pagans of the Bitta. At a
short distance west rises a large mount, the western foot of which is
skirted by a water-course running north toward the Benuwe. A short
march, west. Kdkomi, before the conquest of the Fulbe, was the chief
and central place of the Bitta, as Bizuma was that of the Fali. A Bdrnu
prince is said to have once found refuge here, and to have governed Ga
ruwa also. About ten miles south from Kdkomi lies Chebowa, a consid
erable Pullo settlement, inhabited chiefly by 'ulama of the tribe of Ulerba,
and the residence of M'allem Musa. Some people, in going from Gi
ruwa to Bundang, take this road by Chebowa, which seems not to be
longer. One day's march W.S.W. from Chebowa, about twenty miles,
is Mount Kirin, which is rich in iron, and supplies the independent pa
gan inhabitants of Mount Alantika with this necessary article.
21st. Bundam, or rather Bundang,* a considerable place, the inhabitants of
which are Fulbe and Kanuri, not far from the eastern bank of the Firo,
on a shallow branch, backwater, or " chdkel" of the river, while the Be
nuwe is a good day's journey northward. The country is flat, with sandy
soil, and with small eminences of rock projecting here and there. Ar
rive at noon ; direction west. In going from Bundang to Lamdrde, a
good day's journey S.S.W., keeping along the " chdkel" on which the
* The termination ng is a nasal sound, and is often not clearly distinguished.

ROUTE TO FA'TAWEL AND BINDER. 631
Day. place lies, you pass first by U'ro Buggel, the former residence of Simbo
Jikera, then by Turiwa (" the white people"), the residence of Moham
med Jdbdi, then by Bayaga, and then by Yaske, a Bitta village, where
the road from Gurin to Lamdrde joins our road, and where the Faro,
from a sweep westward, once more approaches the track.
22d. Giirin, formerly the capital of A'damawa, but which was not regularly
walled. It lies on the western bank of the Faro, which here, from a
more southerly direction, turns eastward, running toward Bundang, from,
whence again it makes a sweep toward the north ; in the dry season
Gurin does not lie directly on the river, but on a backwater called
" Guddi." People crossing from Bundang to Gurin therefore, a distance
in a straight line of perhaps only five or six miles, as they drift a great
deal with the current, report the river to be of an immense breadth, and
more important than the Benuwe. A little lower down from Giirin, the
Faro is joined by the miyo Beti.
23d. If you take the northern road from Giirin to Ydla, you pass by Firda ; if
the southern one, you stay a night in Beti (Binti ?), a Pullo settlement
lying on the eastern side of a rivulet (called after it the mayo Binti ?).
Arrive in Beti about three o'clock P.M.
24th. By the north road Yebbolewd, on the west bank of Mayo Binti ; by the
southern road Gawo-Nyibbi, a Pullo settlement, with a considerable
market every Wednesday. The village has received its name from the
circumstance that the Fulbe, on their coming to this place, found in it
a large troop of elephants, " nyibbi." A short day's journey ; and, if
you choose, you can easily go on to Ydla the same day.
25th. Ydla ; early in the morning.
3. Route from Sarawu, bt Gider, to Fatawel and Binder.
1st. Biitu, a Pullo settlement in a mountainous district, and a small water
course toward N.W. at the foot of a mountain ; the inhabitants, however,
provide themselves only from wells. A short march, east.
2d. Doernom, or rather Doernomi, a Pullo settlement in an open, well-culti--
vated district ; a short march, east.
3d. Biillemi, a place inhabited by pagans in its inner circle, and by Fulbe all
around, skirted by a water-course on the east side, and bordered by a
mountain at some distance toward the north. Pass another water-course
on the road, which runs toward Hina. About eight or ten miles N.W.
from Biillemi, and about sixteen or eighteen miles E. or E.N.E. from
Sarawu, is Ngdmna, a large pagan village of the Fali.
4th. Meso, a considerable Pullo settlement, which is said to possess as many
as 200 horses ; it is situated in an entirely open country, and is near a,
water-course, which is said to run N. (?), and to join that of Doernum.
On the road the village of Himma Giri is passed, which was formerly
the residence of I'subu (Yusuf) Derbe, the father of Ardo Badeshi. If
a man walk well, he can reach Me'so in one day from Sariwu.
5th. Peske, a Pullo settlement and residence of 'Abdu, a brother of the gov.
ernor of Meso and Badeshi, in an open valley plain, and with a small
water-course on the west side.

632

APPENDIX.

Day.
6th. Gider, the place above mentioned, inhabited by pagans and Fulbe, and
skirted by a water-course, which is said to be joined by three others near
a place called Kdlla, and to run toward Mayo Kebbi. Gider is properly
a district comprising four villages situated on the tops of mountains.
There are two roads from Peske to Gider, one more direct, leading
straight through the mountainous wilderness in an easterly direction,
while another, passing by a place called Yaji, forms an angle. Gider is
> about eight miles north from Biinga or Baila; you may easily reach
Gider in one day from Meso.
7th. Soriyi, a place inhabited chiefly by pagans, and having but a few Fulbe,
with a small water-course on its south side ; arrive about noon, direc
tion east.
8th. Binder, a large town, inhabited by Fulbe, arrive in the morning.
From Binder to Kafta-Baudi, the place mentioned above, is one day and a
half N.N.E., spending the night in Gajim, where you arrive late in the after
noon, having passed on your road the village of Tordk, then Goy, Kosere, and,
farther on, Busu ; arrive the next day, before the heat, in Kafta-Baudi.
From Gider to Fatawel.
Day. 1st. Encamp in the wilderness between two and three o'clock P.M.; country
mountainous.
2d. Gizabi, the place mentioned above ; arrive early in the morning. The
road, as far as this place E.N.E., now turns a little south from east.
3d. Miskin, a Pullo settlement in the plain ; arrive in the morning.
4th. Mindif, a considerable Pullo place at the east and N.E. foot of Mount
Mindif or Mendefi. There is another road from Gazaba to Mindif, turn
ing round the south side of the mountain, and passing first by Kadi, the
residence of Ardo Bele, then by Salag.
5th. Maud, a large place, residence of the Lawin S'aid, who is said to have a
good many horsemen under his command ; the country intersected by
several small water-courses. Direction a little north of east.
6th. Fitawel, an important place, residence of the chief M'allem Hamma Ye-
gudu, and the principal ivory market in this part of Africa. Indeed, it
is so celebrated that people in Bdrnu generally suppose its name to be
that of a large region. About ten miles east of Fitawel is Daram, or
rather Daram-sulu, a large place inhabited by many Kanuri as well as
by Fulbe, and the residence of the chief Ardo Kalibi, and south from it
another place called Gijia. I here subjoin the road from Biga, on my
Musgu route, to Fatawel.
Day. 1st. Kade, not the village before mentioned, nor the place where the
Miisgu chief A'dishen at present resides, but originally a part of the
same district, which at present forms a Pullo settlement and resi
dence of the chief Ardo Julde (" chief of the Moslemin").
2d. Kiya, a Pullo settlement, residence of Ardo I'sa (or 'Aisa, that is,
Jesus), a short march. East from Kiya, at no great distance, are
the Pullo settlements Bagand and Gumbule, and south of the former
the sister towns Kafta-Baudi, Kafta lying on the north, and Baudi

ROUTE TO KA'RNAK LO'GONE. 633
Day. on the south side of a shallow water-course, " faddama" or ngaljam,
and being ruled by one chief, Ardo Bello.
3d. Fatawel, early in the morning.
4. Road from Meso to I'ssege, by way of Hi'na. Direction north.
Day. 1st. Daba, a pagan village, with but a small number of Fulbe, in a very mount
ainous district ; about noon.
2d. Hina, a pagan village of the Mdzogoy, a tribe nearly related to the Mar
ghi, and probably, therefore, another branch of the Batta. Their chief
has a house at the foot, and another on the top of the rocky mount round
which the place is situated.
3d. Udibunu, a village situated at the foot of a rocky mount, and inhabited
by pagans. Arrive about two o'clock P.M.
4th. Madagali, a pagan village ; a long march ascending and descending in a
mountainous country with many small water-courses.
5th. I'ssege, the Marghi place on my own route ; a long day's march. Before
reaching the place, cross a river running northward.
From Miibi to Hina, E.S.E., is one day.
Keep along the rivulet of Mubi as far as Bi, where you leave it ; reach Jimmi
at noon, and Hina between three and four o'clock P.M., marching at an expe
ditious rate.
5. Route from Gewe to Karnak Logone.
Not a direct road, but, such as it is, often taken by pilgrims. Corrected from
the statements of several informants.
Day. 1st. Bizuma, the Pullo settlement mentioned above, residence of Yamhura, in
a plain without water-courses, but having generally stagnant pools; a
short march east.
2d. Badeshi, the Pullo settlement mentioned above, situated at the northern
foot of a mountain ; a long march ; arrive between three and four o'clock
P.M. ; direction N.E.
3d. Bainga or Biila, a Pullo settlement in a mountainous district, residence
of 'Omiro Mb.'Ila ; a very short march of about six mile's.
4th. Binder, the Piillo place mentioned above, in a plain ; in the dry season
stagnant pools, in the rainy season running water. A very long march,
from early in the morning till sunset ; direction N.E. Road unsafe, the
country not being entirely subjected by the conquering Fulbe. A little
after noon pass close by Bizer, one of the strongholds of the Mbana.
5th. Lira, a Pullo settlement, with a mountain toward the west ; arrive in the
forenoon ; direction north. '
6th. Mindif, the Piillo settlement mentioned above, at tbe foot of the high
mountain of the same name. Among the Fulbe live a few pagans of
the tribe of the Zummaya. A short march a little north from west.
There is another more western and more frequented road between Bin
der and Mindif, leading by Bobdyo, which is about half way ; between

634 APPENDLX.
Day. Bobdyo and Lara are the places Ghadas and Kilgim, and between Bobdyo
and Gider the villages of Mummur, Tdde, aud Lam, at about equal dis-
. tances in succession, Mummur lying a few miles south from Bobdyo, and
Lam about ten miles north or N.N.W. from Gider. This whole district
seems to be very mountainous, and it is therefore difficult to lay down
the roads with any certainty.
7th. Miudi, a Piillo settlement in a mountainous district without rivulets ; a
short march N.E. There is another place of the same name at no great
distance, but inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Zummaya.
8th. Yiilguf, a Pullo village near a small mountain ; the country in general
level; short journey; direction N. — E.S.E., at a short distance from
Yiilguf, is a small place called Ydlde or Yiilde.
9th. Bilaza, a Piillo settlement in a level country ; a short march east.
10th. Bdgo, the considerable Pullo place mentioned above, residence of Lawin
Giri ; arrive about noon ; direction east.
1 lth. Bilda, a pagan village on the top of a short mount. Short march, east.
12th. Malim, the border settlement of the Fiilbe, toward the Miisgu country,
and formerly the residence of Khiirsu, who now resides in Bdgo. At a
short distance south from Malam is another smaller place of the same
name, with the surname Jebjeb. The informant from whom I first wrote
this itinerary, Abu Bakr ben N'am, before continuing his direct road
eastward, entirely retraced his steps westward from this place, after he
had already changed his direction in Bdgo, which is S.E. from Malim,
visiting Marruwa, which is about thirty miles west from Malam, and
thence returning S.E. toward Fatawel, which is about the same distance
or a little more, from Marruwa. Malam is about thirty miles S.S.W.
from Woldje, on my Miisgu route.
15th. Wdza, a small village, consisting of two hamlets, and belonging to Ldgone ;
a few Fiilbe families are settled here. The country level, with the ex
ception of a few detached rocky hills. This is the place where we en
camped on our return from the Miisgu expedition. Abu Bakr passed
two nights in the wilderness between Malam and Waza, which is full
of elephants and wild oxen ("mbinna"); but an expeditious traveler
will make this journey in one day, from early morning till about five
o'clock in the afternoon. Direction, N.E.
16th. Jinna, a considerable walled town of the territory of Ldgone, in a plain
richly clothed with trees, an important market for ivory, and distin
guished by its fine matting and lattice-work. A man who wishes to
travel direct in going from Malam to Jinna does not touch at Waza, but
leaves it at some distance north.
18th. Logon Bi'rni, or Kirnak Ldgone, the capital of the small kingdom of the
latter name. On this march a bare wilderness, called by Abii Bakr
"Fili Obaja,'' stretches out toward the south. On the road are three
villages.

ROUTES IN THE PROVINCE OF BUTSAN'JIDDA. 635
6. Routes to and in the Province of Bubanji'dda and Mbana.
i. From Gurin to Bay-Biiba, the capital of the province of Bubanjidda. Bate ex
peditious. Direction east.
Day. 1st. Chebowa, the Pullo settlement mentioned above.
2d. Kauyen, called by other informants Wdyene, a small Pullo settlement.
3d. Bdngi, another Pullo place, situated on the Benuwe.
4th. Biding, another large place, inhabited by Fulbe and Dima, residence of
a son of Buba, and occasionally also of many wealthy inhabitants of the
walled town Ray Buba, situated on the miyo Ddro, which, near the place
Bdngi just mentioned, joins the Benuwe, the place Ddro, from which it
takes its name, lying between Biding and Bdngi. Another more south
erly and more direct road leads in one day from Wdyene to Biding,
passing in the morning by Agurma, a large Pullo settlement upon which
Wdyene is dependent, and crossing at noon the Benuwe.
5th. Ray Buba, the capital of the country of the Dima, a family of the Fali,
called at present Bubanjidda, from the Pullo conqueror Buba, a man of
the tribe of the Hillegawa, and his mother Jidda. The town, being
strongly fortified and surrounded by a wall, with four gates, lies on the
mayo Chubi, which joins the Benuwe.
ii. Three different roads from Ray-Buba io Bibdgo. Direction north.
(a.) The westernmost.
1st. Bideng or Biding, the place just before mentioned.
2d. Bdngi, residence of the Pullo chief 'Omar Giri ; cross the Benuwe.
3d. Saini, a Pullo settlement, residence of a chief called by my Kanuri inform
ant M'allem Febe, probably from his rich possessions of cattle, " fe."
Before entering the place, cross the River Benuwe, wliich skirts its south
ern side. On the north side of the place is a high mountain. In this
place the road from Ray to Ribigo is joined by the general road from
Gewe to Ribago, from Gewe to Dyllemi, about ten miles south along the
eastern bank of the Benuwe, from Dyllemi to Bdngi, passing by Ddka,
about eighteen miles, and from here Saini, at a short distance.
4th. Gimfargd, a Pullo settlement ; short march.
5th. Ribago, or perhaps more correctly, Ribido (" the prince's residence"),* a
large and important Piillo settlement, the residence of the powerful
chief Bageri (Bii Bakr), and situated on a water-course of some size,
called by the Fulbe " Miyo Gelangero," which joins the River Benuwe
at a hamlet called " Riimde Himma Salatu," distant from Ribido two
days' journey, sleeping the first night in «. village of the Dama, called
U'ro Kaniwachi,t which is reached about two o'clock P.M., and arriving
in Rumde the next morning.
* Respecting this name, see what I have said in vol. ii., p. 176.
t This name seems to be a nickname given to the place by the Kanuri people, on account
ofthe miBery or dearth prevailing there, although "uro" is a Pullo name meaning "farming-
village."

636 APPENDIX.
(i.) The middle road.
Day. 1st. Lifdro or Livdro, a cluster of two villages, one inhabited by pagans of the
Dima tribe, and the other by Fiilbe ; arrive at noon. Wilderness the
whole way.
2d. Bargirim,* a Pullo settlement, and residence of a chief of the name of
'Omaro ; about noon. Dense forest the whole way.
3d. Ribago ; a long day ; arrive between four and five o'clock P.M.
(c.) The eastern road.
1st. Bigali, a Piillo settlement. About twelve miles S.E. from this place lies
Bere, which will be mentioned farther on.
2d. "Bari hosere" (Bari the rocky hill), called so to distinguish it from an
other Biri, a Piillo settlement ; before noon. Biri hosere is ten or
twelve miles east from Birgirim, and about fifteen miles N.E. from
Bere.
3d. Nikiri, a Piillo settlement ; before noon.
4th. Ribigo. Expeditious travelers often make the journey from Ray to Ri
bago in two days, passing the night in the farming-village U'ro IT>be.
iii. From Bibdgo to Sarawu.
1st. Lapare- or Lafire-Fulfiilde, in order to distinguish it from the pagan vil
lage of the same name, Lafire Heferbe (plural of "kefero," "the infi
del") ; arrive before noon. N.N.W.
2d. Wdgold, Fiilbe ; forenoon.
3d. Layade, Fiilbe; arrive about noon, having passed on the road a place
called Bay.
4th. Saurogiimji, Fiilbe ; arrive about noon, having some time before left on
the right the place Meso.
5th. Sariwu ; arrive about four o'clock P.M. Soon after starting in the morn
ing the road is joined by the path coming from Meso, and then you pass
the villages Dyllemi and Doernum.
From Ribigo to Baila is one day's journey from early morning till about three
o'clock P.M. ; direction north. Pass in the morning a village called 'Omiruwi,
or more correctly Manjiula 'Omaruwa (" the village of 'Omir"), and about noon
Biisa, both of them situated on the north side of the miyo Kebbi. In time of
peace between the Mohammedan intruders and the pagan natives, the cattle of
Biila are driven into the rich pasture-grounds of this valley. This valley, as
forming almost a natural communication between the Be'nuwe and the Shari,
and in this way between the Gulf of Benin and the Tsad, is of the highest im
portance, and will receive more illustration farther on.
iv. From Gewe to Lere. Bate very expeditious.
1st. O'blo, a Piillo settlement in a mountainous country. A long day's jour
ney, direction N.E. O'blo is about ten miles north, or a little west from
north, from Ribago, passing by Lafare.
2d. Bifara, an independent pagan place, in a large green valley or faddama,
* The form ofthe name, terminating in "ram," seems to be Kanuri.

ROUTE TO LETIE. 637
!">}'• "chokel," with a perennial rivulet, the miyo Kebbi, an eastern branch
of the Benuwe. The place itself lies on the north side of the valley,
while on its south side there is a mountain.
3d. Lire, a large pagan place of the Mbana, and residence of the powerful
chief Gdnshome, who is greatly feared, as well by tho Fiilbe as by the
Kaniiri. In the beginning of 1851, shortly before my journey to Ydla,
in consequence of an expedition on a large scale being undertaken
against him, he had been obliged to acknowledge, in a certain degree,
the supremacy of the Fiilbe ; but soon after he again shook off all sort
of allegiance. The situation of the place seems very strong, by reason
of its position in the swampy wooded valley, which, according to all in
formation, must have an immense extent. The larger valley, which
comes from the east, is here joined by a small water-course, which is
said to descend from Binder, and is identical, I think, with the miyo
Sarendi. The Mbina form a numerous tribe, extending as far as Gider,
in which direction Bizer, Jaberi, and Lam are three of their chief fron
tier places.
In going from Gewe to Lire, a person can also make stages in the following
places : first night in Lafire, the village mentioned before, situated on the N.W.
side of the miyo Kebbi, where he arrives between two and three o'clock P.M. ;
second night Biisa, a Piillo village on the north side of the mayo Kebbi, where
he arrives about noon, having left in the morning the village of O'blo toward
the north; on the third, between two and three o'clock P.M., he arrives at Lire.
v. Bay to Lire.
Day. 1st. Livdro, the pagan settlement of this name, in subjection to Bubanjidda ;
the country level. Arrive about noon.
2d. Bere, a large Piillo place, with M'allem A'dama Agiirmama, who is said
to be able to bring about a thousand horse into the field. Agiirma, his
native place, from which he has received his surname, lies one day and
a half from this place beyond the Benuwe. A person going thither from
Bere passes the night in Giimboli, lying on the east bank of the river,
and in the morning reaches Agiirma. About twelve miles north from
this Bere lies another smaller Piillo place of the same name, surnamed
Girgabe, from a relation of A'dama's ; and east of Bere Girgabe lies
Bere Maldmard ; and farther eastward" Jdro Suki, while to the north of
this latter is situated the place of M'allem Hamma Duwe.
3d. Duwe, the Piillo settlement just mentioned; a long march through a
plain country, there being only an isolated mountain on the east side of
the road.
4th. Lire. The water-course of the mayo Kebbi, or I'bbi as it is also called,
has so little inclination that the informant from whom I wrote this itin
erary thought it joined the Shiri.
ri. ThevaUey ofthe mayo K4bbi,from O'blo lo Demmo, my farthest point on the
Musgu expedition, which will be described in the following volume.
Going from O'blo to Lire, along the wide and luxuriant faddama of the miyo
Kebbi (direction east), you first pass Biisa (see above), then turning southward

638 APPENDIX.
along the sweep of the valley leave Manjiula, the village of 'Omir, also on the
north side of the valley, about eight miles S.E. from O'blo; then you leave
Kachawu, situated at the foot of a mountain which is visible even from Biila, on
the south side of the valley ; then Bifira, a considerable place on the north side
of the valley, and distant from Binder three short days, arriving on the first day,
before the heat, in Zabeli, the second about the same time in Mindang, a place
of the Mbana which has been ransacked by Mohammed Lowel, and on the third
day reaching Binder about noon. Having passed the night in Bifara, the fol
lowing day you leave Gego on the south side of the valley, and farther on Gdn-
guduk, the birth-place of the father of the famous pagan chief Gdnshome', on a
small island in a lake or large pond formed by a stemming of the shallow waters
of the river; about noon you reach Lire. S.W. from Lire, and S.E. from Gdn-
guduk, is another place called Fillengtenine. Going from Lire to Demmo, you
pass the first night in Miyo Ledde, a Piillo settlement governed by Ardo Chidda,
and situated on a water-course of the same name, which a little farther north
joins the mayo Kebbi ; arrive here between two and three o'clock P.M. On the
second day arrive before noon in Ddre, a Pullo settlement, still proceeding along
the fiddama of the miyo Kebbi ; and about ten miles farther on you come to
the Tiiburi or Tufuri, from whence Demmo is half a day N.E. But between
Demmo and Tuburi the faddama is apparently interrupted, this rising ground
of very little elevation forming the water parting between the Niger and the
Tsid.* vii. From Chebowa to Lame.
Day. 1st. Ngdng, a district consisting of two large villages inhabited by Fiilbe and
pagans, and the residence of a chief called Njebbo. The country level;
arrive between two and three o'clock P.M., having crossed the miyo
Dukka, which farther on joins the Benuwe.
2d. Bime, a place inhabited conjointly by Fiilbe and Kanuri, the former, how
ever, predominating. The population of Dyllemi, which is at some dis
tance to the north, on a creek or inlet (ngaljam) of the river, also unites
these two different elements. A short march, direction east.
3d. Ddga, on the west bank of the Benuwe, which is crossed here ; the coun
try flat.
4th. Gamsargu (identical, I think, with Gimfargd, p. 635), a place inhabited
by Kanuri and Fulbe. Short march.
6th. Nakeri (see above). An expeditious traveler, starting from Bime in the
dry season, may reach Nikeri early in the afternoon, crossing the Be
nuwe at a place called Ligeri, and leaving Ddka to the south, then pass
ing Gamsargu, and leaving Seni to the north.
7th. Biri hosere, a large place inhabited by Fiilbe, and the residence of the
chief Hamed, who is dependent on Bigeri, the governor of Ribigo. The
place is skirted on the east side by the miyo Hille, being joined by an- '
* Mr. Vogel, who visited the Musgu country in the rainy season, 1854, and who was so for
tunate as to reach the district of the Tufuri, found there a considerable sheet of water, which,
very erroneously, he seems to regard as the feeder of the Benuwe, while in reality it was noth
ing but an expansion of the faddama. How can it be possible that such a district, quite close
to another large river, should feed such a Btream as the Benuwe ?

RAY TO LA'ME AND LA'GA. 639

Day.

other stream called mayo Ddro (not the same as that mentioned above),
and which is said to join the mayo Kebbi.
8th. Bere Gargabe, the place mentioned above, which may also be easily
reached in one day from Nikeri, leaving Biri hosere a little southward.
This place is also skirted by a stream called mayo Suk.
9th. Lame, a large village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Mbana and
by a few Fiilbe, in a flat country, with a river which is stated (although
the fact seems improbable) by all informants unanimously to join the
Shari, or rather Serbewel (the River " Arre" or "E're" of the Musgu),
and which seems to be the same with the mayo Siik near Bere Gargabe,
called so after a place named Suk, which you pass early in the morning.
From Lame to Lire is a very long day's march of about thirty-five miles,
direction N.N.W. viii. From Ray to Lame and Laga.
(o.) Northern road.
1st. Lifdro heferbe, the pagan village of that name lying about eight miles
east from the Pullo village of the same name (Lifdro Fulfulde) ; arrive
at noon. North.
2d. Bere, early in the forenoon. N.N.E.
3d. Lime; east. (J.) Southern road.
1st. Damtogd, a Piillo Settlement ; the country level, broken only by detached
hills.
2d. Dili, a pagan village.
3d. Lame.
4th. Duwe, a pagan village ; the country well cultivated. Short march east.
5th. Mafala, a pagan village. None of these pagans are tattooed. About
noon; direction E. S.E.
6th. Laga or Laka, a large place inhabited exclusively by pagans (of the tribe
of Mbana), who tattoo the left cheek and cheek-bone, or rather, accord
ing to more accurate information, the men make a scar on the forehead
and above the nose, while the women tattoo the right arm and shoulder.
ix. From Demmo, my farthest point in the Musgu country (see vol. ii.), to
Laga, at a most expeditious rate.
1st. Dawa, a district with two rocky mountains inhabited by the Tufuri or
Tiiburi, a tribe of the Fall, and with a large shallow stream, which forms
the beginning of the miyo Kebbi, and which, according to this inform
ant (M'allem Jymma, a very intelligent Shiiwa chief, of whom I shall
speak in the following volume), receives the waters of the ngaljam of
Demmo.
2d. Kera, a village inhabited by pagans, who perforate their lips ; a long day's
journey.
3d. Lika, a large pagan place, in some degree dependent on the lord of Bu
banjidda, who extends his ghazzias, or rather "kdnno," as far as this
place. The country is level, with the exception of a small rocky emi-

640 APPENDIX.
nence. A rivulet which skirts Laka has, according to M'allem Jymma,
its inclination toward the River Serbeuwel, a statement which wants
confirmation. The inhabitants, according to this informant, tattoo the
breast.
Having traced, along the thread of these itineraries, the conquests of the Fiilbe
toward the east and northeast over the regions inclosed between the Benuwe
and the Shari — a country which is sometimes pre-eminently called Jemmara,
or rather Jemma'a, because the revolutionary and reformatory principle of the
Fulbe has here developed itself with immense success — I now return in the op
posite direction, in order to follow the progress of these enterprising and restless
people in their advance toward the Bight of Benin. The first effect of their ad
vance is assuredly most, calamitous, their road being marked by the ashes of
burned villages and the blood of thousands of unfortunate creatures ; but, on the
other hand, they have laid open these regions to inquiries which may be followed
by more efficacious proceedings ; and it may be reasonably questioned whether
these countries would ever have been opened to extensive commerce if they had
remained in the hands of a motley multitude of petty pagan chiefs.
1. Routes to Baya.
i. Route from Ray Buba to Bdya, a little west from south.
Day. 1st. Hosere Chdlle (the "Bird Rock"), a village lying round an isolated rocky
hill where many of the wealthy inhabitants of Ray have second estab
lishments ; about noon.
2d. Bumgdrgo (Mbum Gdrgo), a village inhabited by the slaves of the con
querors, and named after an influential overseer of that name, in a
mountainous district ; arrive between four and five o'clock P.M.
3d. Saling, a village inhabited by pagans of dark black color, in a mountain
ous district. Cross, about noon, the Benuwe, which is here already a
considerable river, although I have been unable to learn any thing more
accurate about its upper course, excepting that it is supposed to issue, at
some day's distance toward the south or S.S.E., from a great mountain
with a large volume of water. Arrive between four and five o'clock P.M.
4th. Sleep in the wilderness.
5th. Biya, the principal place of the district or country of the same name. It
lies in the midst between a forest and the mountains, and it is said to be
of the same size as Ngaundere (see farther on). It is the residence of
a chief named Baushi (a nickname ?), who is under the supremacy of
the Governor of Biindang. The dwellings are all huts. The place has
no market. The inhabitants go naked, with no covering but a leaf.
They tattoo their bodies in undulating lines, and make a small hole in
the left nostril ; they have asses, sheep, and poultry in abundance, but
neither horses nor neat cattle ; they catch elephants, which are very
numerous, in pits, and feed on their flesh. Plenty of parrots. Much
dukhn ot Pennisetum is cultivated, while the banana is the principal fruit.
The sexes observe a distinction with regard to food, the women abstain
ing from fowls— perhaps on the same principle as the women, in some

I !

ROAD FROM YO'LA TO BA'YA. 641
Day. parts of India, are prohibited to eat things which are regarded as deli
cacies. They have no cotton, but use shells as money. The only weap
ons of the people are wooden spears, which they do not poison. The
Baya are evidently identical with Koelle's and Dr. Baikie's Bayong.
The former of these two gentlemen has placed these people at far too
great a distance into the interior.
ii. From Yola to Baya by way of Gurin.
1st. Giirin (see above), the former residence of the Pullo ruler of A'damawa.
2d. Lamdrde, a considerable place, inhabited by pagans ;* arrive between one
and two o'clock P.M. The road lies along the east bank of the River
Faro, which is crossed, on first setting out from Giirin, by a ford in the
dry season, but in a boat during the rains. The country plain ; mount
ains in the distance. You then turn a little west from south. On the
west side of the river is Chimba, a large place situated at the foot
of Mount Alantika, and inhabited by Fulbe, the residence of A'mba
Simbo.
3d. A village of the pagan Bute, between one and two o'clock P.M. The
country is mountainous on both sides of the road, the Firo being some
distance off toward the west. As is the case throughout A'damiwa,
there is here abundance of honey.
4th. A Pullo village situated on a river running N.W. into the Firo, and called
miyo Kolejo. Here resides a petty governor called Ardo Mohammed ;
the whole country is mountainous. The inhabitants maintain that the
soil contains gold, but that they do not know how to collect it. Arrive
between one and two o'clock P.M.
5th. A pagan village, situated in the midst of separate groups of mountains,
and governed by a chief called Njarendi. The whole country is under
cultivation, the crops consisting in dukhn, durra, ground-nuts, and cotton.
Arrive between four and five o'clock P.M.
6th. A Pullo village, the residence (jdro) of the chief Kibdu, and therefore
called "Jdro Kibdu." The country through which the road lies is mount
ainous ; and its inhabitants are pagans, but of very handsome figure.
7th. Pass the night among the pagan slaves of the Fulbe (Rumde Ngiundere) ;
arrive toward sunset.
8th. Ngiundere, a place of considerable size for this country, said to be about
as large as Gummel in Bdrnu, and surrounded with a low rampart ; the
dwellings are built entirely of reeds, with the exception of the house of
the governor and the mosque, the former being built of clay, and the
latter of clay and reeds. A daily market is held. Arrive a little before
noon.
9th. A slave village (rumde) of the slaves of the Ardo, in a mountainous coun
try, with water-courses in the valley. Arrive between one and two
o'clock P.M.
10th. Another pagan village ; many small hamlets scattered about.
Uth. A viUage of the Mbum, a large tribe of pagans, well-proportioned, who
• This is rather curious, as the name is evidently a Pullo name meaning "the chiefs res
idence."
Vol. L— S s

642 APPENDIX.
tattoo their bodies, make cuts in the chin, and file the teeth to a point.
They live partly in the valley and partly on the top of the mountains.
12th. Baya.
iii. From Chdmba to Baya, preceded by an itinerary from Yola and Koncha
io Chdmba.
1st. Miibati (Miyo Beti), a Pullo village situated on a small rivulet called
miyo Beti, and joining the Firo.
2d. Lamdrde, the place mentioned in the preceding itinerary, situated on the
River Firo.
N.B. — It seems almost as if Giirin had been accidentally omitted in this itin
erary ; at least the place where the river is crossed can not be far distant from
that town. The road keeps a while along the bank of the river ; fine country •
mountains only at some distance from the road.
Day. 3d. Chimba, a considerable place, in a fine position, bordered by the River
Faro toward the east, and by the offshoots of Mount Alantika toward the
west, from which, however, it seems to be separated by a smaller stream.
Mount Alantika, which forms a gigantic mountain mass, is densely in
habited by pagans of the tribe of the Bitta, who are governed by seven
different chiefs, and supply themselves with iron from Mount Kirin,
lying on the east side of the river, half a day's journey from Lamdrde ;
mountains are seen all around. Chimba is almost exclusively inhabited
by Fulbe, and is the residence of the powerful governor A'mba Sambo,
a very warlike man, but now rather old. Chimba is three days' journey
from Koncha, in starting from which place you pass the first night in
Liro, the second in the town of Yaji (the mighty ancestor of A'mba
Simbo), and on the third reach Chimba. This road keeps along a river,
which you have to cross twice, but with regard to the identity of wliich
with the Deve I am not quite certain.
iv. From Chdmba to Baya by a western road.
1st. Lamdrde, the place mentioned above, having crossed the River Faro im
mediately on setting out.
2d. Gabddmana, a pagan village, with a nimde ; the name probably has some
connection with that of the chief Kibdo or Gabdo.
3d. Encamp in the wilderness.
4th. Bere, a pagan village on the top of a hill, and at a short distance north
ward a village inhabited by Kanembii aud Kanuri. The country is in
tersected by small rivulets.
5th. Rumde Ngiundere, a small slave-village.
6th. Ngiundere, the principal place in the country of the Mbum, surrounded
by a low wall, and containing a few houses of clay, and the residence or
jdro of Hamed, who governs the country as far as Bundang, and is said
to be able to bring 500 horse into the field. It is situated at the western
foot of a hill, while toward the west there rises another hill. The people
unanimously state that the place is situated exactly south from Chimba.
The country produces Sorghum vulgare, a peculiar sort of sorghum called
mathi, rice, and cotton.

FROM KCNCHA TO JO'RO FA-NGEL AND BATA. 643
Day.
7th. Katil, in a mountainous district. During the first part of this day's
march, the direction being S.E., the river, which runs here from east to
west, is close on the right of the traveler; it is called Mayo Nelbi, and
joined by another smaller one, called Njirang. During the latter part
of the rainy season even here it can be crossed only in boats. However,
this is not the direct road, but a great circuit ; a traveler who foUows
the direct road from Bere arrives in one day at Katil, after a march of
about nine hours, direction south.
8th. Yangare, a pagan village in a mountainous country, near a rivulet which
joins the Firo ; a very long day's journey.
9th. Yere, a pagan village of another tribe, in a wide plain destitute of trees
and intersected with rivulets ; arrive about noon.
10th. Principal place of Biya, which the informant of this route, M'allem Ka-
turi, represents as a country mountainous toward the east, but entirely
level toward the west. This last day's march from Yere is a very long
one, and people generaUy pass the night on the road, and enter Biya
the following morning.
v. From Koncha to Joro Fangel, and from thence to Bdya.
(a.) Middle road.
1st. A " rumde" ofthe slaves of Mohammed dan Jdbdi, the governor of Kon
cha, on the banks ofthe miyo Beli, along the eastern bank of which the
traveler continues his march, in a wide valley inclosed on both sides by
mountain chains.
2d. Riimde Fingel ; that is to say, the nimde or slave-village of Jdro Fingel,
on a hill of considerable elevation. The slaves are of the tribe of the
Tek'a.
3d. Jdro Fangel, the " lord's seat" of Fangel, the chief who has established
in these quarters the dominion of the Fiilbe ; a place of middling size,
in a valley inclosed by mountains.
(J.) Westernmost road. [N.B. — Rate rather slow."]
1st. Rumde Kaighimman, a slave village belonging to Koncha, in a level
country ; arrive a little after noon. The name Kaighimman originally
belonged to the Kanuri.
2d. Encamp on the bank of the miyo Tafiri, which, running from west to
east, but farther on turning northward, receives the mayo Leggel, which
is crossed in the morning soon after leaving the rumde, and the miyo
Benglari, which is crossed farther on ; both these water-courses are dry
in summer. Arrive about four o'clock P.M.
3d. U'ro Bakari Yemyem, the residence of the Pullo chief of the Bakari, over-
towered toward the west by a large mountain ; arrive early in the fore
noon.
4th. Riimde Bakari Yemyem, with a mountain chain rising to a considerable
elevation toward the south ; arrive early in the forenoon.
5th. Jdro Fingel ; the east side of the place is skirted, according to the Piillo
A'dama, an intelligent native of A'damawa, by the miyo Bina or Mbina,
which, at a short distance from Tingeren, joins the Faro. Arrive before

644 APPENDIX.
noon. This weU-known place, Jdro Fingel, is not to be confounded with
a smaller place of the same name.
An expeditious traveler, keeping along the most direct eastern road, and
sleeping in Lamtam, is able to reach Jdro Fangel on the second day.
vi. From Joro Fangel to Baya.
Day. 1st. Tinger, a Piillo settlement, the residence of A'dama Jikera, a powerful
Piillo chief, who commands the tribe of the Bakari or Bakari Yemyem,
who are said to be cannibals. A'dama Jikera, who is the brother of
Simbo Jikera, has about one hundred horse under his command. This
place is not to be confounded with a place of a similar name, Tengeren,
the residence of another chief of the name of A'dama Jikera, which I
shall mention further on.
2d. A village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Jetem, as they are caUed
by the Fulbe, who most probably have been transplanted hither: the
village is skirted by the River Firo, which is here small, although during
part of the year it becomes navigable for boats ; toward the east rises a
considerable hill. .Arrive between two and three o'clock P.M.
3d. Riimde Ngiundere, the slave-village mentioned above, with a large mount
ain toward the east ; arrive between two and three o'clock P.M.
4th. Ngiundere. The following is a more direct road from Koncha to Ngiundere :
Day. 1st. Encamp on the mayo Beli, in a very level country, with several small
slave-hamlets lying round about ; arrive at noon; direction S.S.E.
2d. PuUo settlement of A'mba Sambo Jikera or Zikera (Jikera being the
name of his grandfather), with a large mountain on the north
side; arrive about noon ; S.S.E.
3d. Filla-Ngiwu, a village of the Mbum, in a mountainous district, with
very small water-courses. Hence half a day's march N.E., and
a day and a half from A'mba Simbo Jikera, is the Tengeren
which I mentioned above, consisting of two separate viUages — a
PuUo settlement toward the west, and, about six miles east, a
pagan viUage of the Mbiim, in a mountainous district. Tengeren
is also a day and a half's march from Rumde Ngiundere, the
traveler who comes from the former place passing the night in a
riimde of A'mba Sambo, on the north bank ofthe Faro.
4th. Ngiundere, between three and four o'clock P.M.
5th. A viUage of the Mbum, situated on the bank of the mayo Nelbi, which
joins the mayo Gelangero. This stream is perennial, and during part
of the year even navigable ; on the south side of the village is a mount
ain. Arrive in the forenoon.
6th. Mambiim (properly Ma-Mbum), a considerable place, and residence of
Arnido, a chief of the tribe of the Mbiim, skirted on its east side by the
miyo Nelbi, in a level country ; arrive about noon. Mambum is distant
from Katil one day's march, S.W.
7th. Riskobaya, a village of the pagan Mbiim, thus denominated from a man
named Risko, a slave of Mohammed Jdbdi. The southern side of the

FROM CHA'MBA TO TIBA'TI. 645
Day. village is bordered by a water-course, dry in summer, caUed by the Fulbe
"mayo ballewo;" on the east side there is a mountain, and the whole
road is mountainous. Arrive between four and five o'clock P.M.
8th. Encamp in the wilderness about two o'clock P.M.
9th. Ddka, or rather the residence of Ddka, tbe principal chief of the Baya
country. I can not say with certainty whether this place be the same
as that where the other itinerary terminates. The country level, and
covered with dense forest.
vii. From Chdmba to Tibdti.
(o.) Eastern road.
1st. Biibadiddi, the viUage mentioned above, situated in the southern angle
formed by the junction of the river of Koncha (called by some Miyo
Tbbi, by others M. Deve) with the Faro ; about noon.
2d. Rumde Dirrim, a hamlet of the slaves of A'mba Sambo, who originally be
long to the tribe of the Mbum. The country level ; much forest. Arrive
about ndon.
3d. Riimde Firo, another slave-village of A'mba Sambo (which, however, has
a name in the native language also), situated on the north side of the
Faro, which here makes a sweep from west to east. Arrive between two
and three o'clock P.M., having crossed in the morning several small
streams, and farther on a mountain chain, which seems to border the
valley of the river on the north side.
4th. Riimde Diibbel, another slave-village ; arrive about noon, having crossed
the River Faro in the morning, and then traversed a dense forest, full
of elephants, in a level country.
5th. Tibiti, a large walled town, being the only town of this description in
A'damiwa besides Ray Buba — Ngiundere being merely fortified with a
low rampart — but inhabited for the most part by slaves, and not by Fulbe.
It is the residence of a governor. The town is situated on a smaU river
skirting its northeastern side, and then running N.W. toward the Faro,
which it is said to join one day's journey west from Rumde Firo. It is
generally called Kogi-n-Tibiti. On the north side of the town there
seems to be a large swamp, perhaps an inlet of the river. Tibiti boasts,
according to all my informants, of the richest vegetation in all A'dami
wa. About ten miles west from the town is a more considerable river,
not fordable during some months, which, according to my best inform
ants, is the mayo Beli, coming from a considerable distance S.W.
(6.) Western road, according to Mohammed.
1st. Bdmbake, a Pullo village ; before noon.
2d. Encamp on a bank of a rivulet (the miyo Kotego ?) running westward, be
tween two and three o'clock P.M.
3d. Gibdi Mbana, a village of the pagan Mbiim (Mbinaf), in a level country ;
about noon.
4th. Kdro-Mbina, another pagan village ; before noon.
5th. The residence of A'dama Jikera (see above) ; at the same time.
6th. Varvindu, a place situated on the south side of a river which informant

646 APPENDIX.
Day. calls the Faro, and which is crossed on branches of trees. Toward S.E.
a mountain is seen.
7th. Another place of A'dama Jikera, in a level country ; about noon.
8th. Tibati. (c.) According to Mallem Katuri.
1st. Gungiiti, a considerable Piillo place in a level country, the southern hori
zon alone being bordered by mountains. Early in the morning the
broad river Faro is crossed, during the latter part of the rainy season
and shortly afterward, in boats, at other times of the year by fording.
Arrive between two and three o'clock P.M.
2d. Pass the night out in a hilly country fuU of elephants and buffaloes, while
the deleb-palm or gigina, and the gdnda or Papaya predominate in the
forest ;* arrive at two or three o'clock P.M.
3d. A village of the pagan Mbina, in a woody country, with mountains toward
west and south. Road mostly keeps along the bank of a rivulet, which
is said to join the Firo. Arrive between two and three' o'clock P.M.
4th. Hamlets of the pagan Mumbere (?), who live on the summits of the mount
ains, the whole country being mountainous, and the road leading over
the heights.
5th. Encamp near a large lake or swamp, which informant calls by the Hausa
appellation " ruwa-n-ddrina" ("Hippopotamus water"), in a hollow be
tween the mountains ; arrive between four and five o'clock P.M.
6th. The large settlement of A'mba Simbo Jikera, surrounded by hiUs.
7th. The PuUo settlement of A'dama Jikera, in a valley-plain surrounded by
mountains on all sides, and intersected by a small rivulet.
8th. A pagan village, Varvindu, in a plain, through which the Faro runs from
south to north.
9th. Encamp in an uninhabited woody country perfectly level.
10th. Tibati, about noon.
I shall here add two short itineraries from Tibiti to Ngiundere. Direc
tion, E.N.E.
Day.
1st. A slave village called Riimde Tibati, about noon.
2d. Village of the Mbiim, in a mountainous district.
3d. Rumde Diibi, before noon.
4th. Ngiundere, between two and three o'clock P.M.
Or a nearer road in three days, passing the first night in Riimde Mbiim,
and the second in a slave-village of 'Abd-Allihi, and traveling each
day from early in the morning till about noon.
viii. From Tibati to the I'bo or I'gbo Country.
1st. A village of the Bute, called by my Hiusa informant the m'allem Katiiri,
" gari-n-Kachella Bute ;" arrive between two and three o'clock P.M.
2d. A village ofthe Tikir (Tik'a), called by him "gari-n-Kachella Tikar," sit
uated in a dense forest ; about noon.
* The prevalence ofthe Carica Papaya in this district, in the midst ofthe foreBt, is of very
great interest.

FROM TIBATI TO THE 130 COUNTRY.

647

Day. 3d. Another pagan village, called by him "gari-n-Kachella-n-Yemyem;" about
noon.
4th. A village inhabited by the Moncheran, a tribe of the Bute. Country
level and woody.
5th. A pagan village or " ungwa," consisting of two hamlets, one of which lies
at the foot and the other on a summit of a hill; between two and three
o'clock P.M.
6th. Another pagan viUage, the residence of a powerful native chief, and there
fore called by the Hiusa people '•gari-n-Serki-n-Yemyem."
7th. A viUage of the great chief of the Findu, in a level country. All these
pagan tribes, whose principal weapon is the bow and arrow, are in the
imina of A'mba Simbo.
8th. Residence of the principal chief of the Tikir, or rather Tik'a, a tribe
marked by four scars or cuts under the eyes. Each of these pagan tribes
has its peculiar language or dialect.
9th. Another pagan village, called " gari-n-Kachella-n-Bum," in a plain woody
country, with a considerable river passable only in boats, and called by
the Hausa people " niwa-n-kido" (the crocodile river).
10th. Encamp on the northern bank of the same river, called here "biki-n-kogi
Jetem," after the Jeterfi, the pagan inhabitants of the country. It winds
along through a mountainous district.
11th. A viUage of the Md, a large tribe of pagans, who live on the summits of
the mountains situated on the same river. This whole tribe is armed
with muskets. A long day's journey, till about four or five o'clock P.M.
12th. VUlage of the Abd, in a mountainous district watered by a river. Toward
the south a town called U'mbe is situated, being conspicuous by a large
mountain.
13th. Dingding, another pagan tribe, who feed chiefly on a particular kind of
clay, which they prepare with butter. The people of the slave-expedi
tion themselves lived upon it while in this district, and represent it as
not unpleasant. The Dingding are also armed with guns. The name
Dingding, however, most probably is not the indigenous name of this
tribe.
14th. Yiiruwa, another pagan tribe, armed with guns, and living in a mountain
ous district.
15th. Pd, another tribe, living chiefly on sugar-cane (not, as it seems, the Hol
cus saccharatus), which they boil, and eat like honey. Country mount
ainous.
16th. 11)0, dwelling in nine viUages on the "black water" (baki-n-ruwa), as
many of the Hausa people call the Kwara, although the I'gbo and other
tribes in that district give the name " black water" in general to the Be
nuwe, while they distinguish the Kwara as the " white water."
The I'bo, whom, as weU as the Dingding, the Fiilbe believe to be Chris
tians, have neither cattle, horses, nor asses, but plenty of large sheep,
goats, swine, and poultry. The expedition which my informant accom
panied in 1848-9 spent two months in this country, plundering it and
carrying away a great many slaves. Since that time the Fiilbe can in
some respects truly say that their empire extends as far as the sea; for

648 APPENDIX.
Day. now every year the IT)0, at least part of them, and their neighbors are
said to bring slaves, salt, and cowries as a kind of tribute to the Governor
of Chimba. The same expedition, after having retraced its steps as far
as the gari-n-Kachella Bum, again returned toward the Great River, and
fell upon and plundered Mbafu, said to be three days' journey north
from the Tbo country.*
ix. From Joro Fangel to the Country ofthe Jitem.
1st. Liimta, a Pullo settlement in a level country, the N.E. side of which is
skirted by the mayo Nelbi ; arrive about noon. Road crosses several
small water-courses ; direction a little west from south.
2d. Mayo Beli, a place chiefly inhabited by pagans, with the addition of but
a few Fulbe, skirted by a river of the same name, turning from west to
north. The country mountainous, but the mountains not rising to a
great elevation. Arrive between two and three o'clock P.M.
3d. Hosere Libul, a large mountain, inhabited by Tik'a, and extending a con
siderable distance west. This mountain is generally regarded in Ada-
miwa as the feeder of the sources of the River Faro ; but, according to
this informant (the Hij A'dama, an intelligent man, who speaks as an
eye-witness), only a small rivulet, the mayo Toldre, skirts its east foot,
and joins the" miyo Beli. Arrive about noon. Hosere Libul is one
day's journey S.W. from Tibiti.
4th. Yawa, a village of the pagan Tikar (Tik'a), in a plain woody country with
a small river which skirts the east side of the viUage (perhaps the upper
course of the miyo BeU). Arrive between two and three o'clock P.M.
From Hosere Libul you take a more westerly direction. '
5th. Bomfdnga, a village of another division of the Tikir (Tik'a), in a plain
with small rivulets. Farfar, the great capital of the Tikir, is distant
from this a long day W.N.W. The country of the Tikar (Tik'a) in gen
eral is well inhabited, the cultivated ground alternating with dense for
est, wherein the gonda and the banana prevail ; in the more southwest
erly districts the gdro-tree (Sterculea acuminata) and the hdnoruwi or
maji-n-gdro (St. macrocarpos). That species of grain called masr (Zeil
. mais), and ddga or yams, constitute the principal produce— very little
millet, no cotton ; the country almost all level, with small rivulets. The
inhabitants have, besides huts of clay built overground, also caves under
ground.
6th. Encamp in the wilderness, the country inhabited by the Deri. A long day.
7th. Encamp in the wilderness at a spot where natron is found. The country
inhabited by the Bore, another division of the Tikar (Tik'a).
8th. Lengwaji, a great mountain inhabited by Tikir, who are in the imdna of
A'mba Simbo, the governor of Chimba ; before noon.
9th. Bdmbom, one of the chief places of the Tikir ; about noon.
* This last statement is perplexing, as there can be but little doubt about the situation of
Mbafu a few days' journey N.E. from Kalahi, and its identity with Mr. Koelle's Mfut and with
Ndd; for, if the direction were correctly given, we ought to look for these I"bo rather about
Duke's Town. Nevertheless, I have no doubt that the I'gbo are meant, although no account
of an expedition being made by the Fulbe into that country has become known on the coast.

ROUTE FROM RAY-BU'BA TO MBATU. 649
Day.
10th. Fandu, another division of the Tikar; before noon. Direction a little
south from west.
11th. Mbdnga, a large place of the Tikar in a level country, with but a few
mountains ; before noon.
12th. Jolonjiinga, a straggling hamlet in a level country, with a rivulet running
north ; between two and three o'clock P.M.
13th. Mayo Kim, a considerable river running from east to west (S.E. to N.W. f )
to join the Njdreng, and forming the boundary between the territory of
the Jetem and that of the Tikar ; about noon.
14th. Lamdrde — that is to say, the residence of a chief of the Jetem — in a level
country; between four and five o'clock P.M.
15th. The rocky mountain (hosere) Gelangero (not the original, but a Fulfulde
name), in an uncultivated country intersected only by small water
courses ; between two and three o'clock P.M.
16th. Kosel Danel, a small hill belonging to the territory of the Jetem, west of
which live the Dingding. The Jetem, as weU as the Tikir, have no
guns (but according to some, the Jetem have). The Md dwell to the
north of the Jetem.
Wth. Reach a river called by the Fiilbe " miyo baUewo" (the black river), which,
like the Kim, is said to join the Njereng, a considerable river, navigable
for boats at all seasons of the year, and running southward. Mbafu is
said to be three days west, and Tdto five days N.W. from this place.
x. From Bay-Buba to Mbafu.
1st. Hosere ChdUe. See above, p. 640.
2d. Dinfa, a vUlage inhabited by pagans, who do not tattoo, and whose weap
ons are spears and arrows.
4th. Jafa, a pagan viUage inhabited by a division of the Diiru, who make long
gashes on the left side of the body. This place lies round a rocky hill,
the south side of which is free from huts, while the dwelling of the chief
is on the north side. You cross the River Benuwe in the morning of the
first day after leaving Dinfa, and, having passed the night in the wilder
ness, arrive early the next morning.
6th. Bere, a viUage (see p. 642) inhabited by pagans who make incisions in the
under lip ; the country is mountainous, but the mountains are detached.
Direction S.W. Another longer road leads from Jifa, a Uttle east from
south, to Sigje, a large Piillo place situated a day's journey S.W. from
the above-mentioned place, Saling, and from thence west to Bere.
7th. A village of the Mbum.
8th. Gankaini, a viUage of the Mbum ; the country level, covered with dense
forests, the large spreading "Iainde" and the "kimba" being the pre-
vaUing trees.
9th. Jerang, in the forenoon.
10th. A village of the Mbum, in the forenoon.
11th. A rivulet, called by the Hausa people " kogi-n-gdra," in the wilderness.
12th. Sold, a village of the Biina, who make three small cuts over the cheek
bone, and possess neither horned cattle nor sheep, but only goats and
poultry ; the country level, and covered with a dense forest.

650 APPENDIX.
Day.
13th. Bdngore, a village of the Bute, who live in light huts constructed of
branches. The Bute, upon whom the Kdtofd, driven from their ancient
seats about Chimba, have thrown themselves, wear no clothing except
a narrow rope, made of bark, round the loins ; they have long arrows
and spears, and large shields of a very peculiar shape. They are said
to have red copper in their country, and to work it themselves.
14th. Yenda, a place of the Kdtofd. The whole country is flat, with much sandy
soil, masr and sorghum being cultivated, besides a great deal of vegeta
bles ; the country abounds in water, but has no running streams, aU the
water-courses being of a shaUow, wide-spreading character, such as are
called "ngaljam'' in Kanuri, and "fiddama" in Hiusa. The rainy
season is said to have here only three months' duration, the heat, even
in the dry season, not being immoderate. The predominant trees are
the giro, kimba, mosdro, jittaguUo, and the passakdre. S.E., half a
day's march from Yenda, is another large place of the Kdtofd, called
Kordngo.
15th. Bdnchobe, W.S.W.
16th. Berberd.
24th. Bambiim. Having passed during eight days, first through the country of
the Bute, then through that of the Tikir, or rather Tik'a, you reach this
place, belonging to another tribe.
27th. Mbifu. Mohimmedu, my intelligent informant, says that there are large
and wealthy towns in this country, with well-frequented market-places,
and that the people have a great deal of property, and mostly European
furniture ; all the houses are made of clay. He represents the inhabit
ants of Mbafu, as well as the Tikar and Dingding, as being of a copper
color. They wear their hair dressed to a great height like all the pagans
hereabouts, let the beard grow, and practice circumcision. The tree
"tirmo," with a fine fruit, is predominant. Of the identity of Mbifu
with Mr. KoeUe's Mfiit, and of its situation, a few days' journey N.E.
from Kilabi, I have already spoken.
xi. From Ngaundere to the Bati.
1st. Mambiim.
2d. Sold.
3d. Bdngore.
4th. Biibadiddi Kachellel (the name not original, but introduced altogether by
the conquerors), a village of the Kdtofd ; the whole country, as all the
country south of that of the Mbum in general, is said to be perfectly
level.
5th. Bittik, another viUage of the Kdtofd ; arrive about noon. The direction,
which, as far as Biibadiddi, has been almost south, now turns south by
west. A day and a half S.W. from Biibadiddi lies Geniyon, and farther
on in the same direction Biibabdntong.
6th. Bdrmona, a place of the Bute ; a long day's march.
7th. Mingchirin, a woody district, governed by a woman, with a great mount
ain toward the west.
10th. Bebe, a pagan viUage consisting of huts built of clay.

METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.

651

Day.
Uth. Mere, another pagan village ; country woody.
14th. Bati, a tribe of pagans of peculiarly light color,* well made, and not
marked by any incisions ; they wear an apron round the loins made of
cotton, and dwell in huts built of clay ; they have only sheep, no horned
cattle ; they have shells for currency, and live at no great distance from
the sea, in the direction of which is seen a very large mountain. They
have no fire-arms, but only spears, and their country abounds in elephants
and wild pigs.
I am happy to add that Thomas J. Hutchinson, Esq., H.M. consul at Fernando
Po, with whom I am engaged in active correspondence, is making inquiries with
regard to the tribes of whom I obtained information in the interior, through the
missionary, Mr. Anderson. These inquiries tend always more and more to cor
roborate my information.

XI.— FRAGMENTS OF A METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.

_ 1 Hour of the
"»»¦ Day.

Dee. in
Beale of
Fah.

Bemorks.

Date.

Hour of the
Day.

Dee;, in
scale of
Fali.

Remarks.

1850. |

1850.
April 17

April
5.15 A.M.
48-6
Rain the whole day.
9.0 P.M.
66-2
2
6.0 A.M.
50
18
5.0 A.M.
45-5
3
6.15 A.M.
55-4
12.0
78-8
4
No obsr'n.
8.45 P.M.
63-5
5
5.15 A.M.
51-8
19
5.0 A.M.
50-5
6
5.0 A.M.
50
20
5.30 A.M.
45-5
7.30 P.M.
55-4
12.15
68
7
5.10 A.M.
45
21
No obsr'n.
8
9.30 P.M.
72-5
22
5.0 A.M.
48-2
9
10.0 P.M.
72-5
23
6.0 A.M.
50 )
SI Hasi.
10
5.30 A.M.
66-6
12.30
86
12.0
84-2
24
5.30 A.M.
40-1
+J
6.30 P.M.
77
12.0
82-4
O
j3
11
5.30 A.M.
53-6
9.0 P.M.
60-8
j>»
6.0 P.M.
68
Easterly wind for
25
5.0 A.M.
46-4
some days.
12.0
86
& .
12
5.30 A.M.
50
2.0 P.M.
109-4
is
13
5.15 A.M.
50
7.0 P.M.
78'8
2.0 P.M.
91-8
26
5.0 A.M.
59
14
5.0 A.M.
43-2
12.0
84-4
12.0
86
7.0 P.M.
75-6
9.30 P.M.
59
27
5.30 A.M.
51-8
T3 O
15
5.0 A.M.
42
7.30 P.M.
80-6
%£
12.0
78-3
28
12.0
106-7
cd d
9.0 P.M.
57-2
29
5.0 A.M.
85
+» £
16
5.0 A.M.
43-7
12.15
104
o
1.30 P.M.
80-6
7.30 P.M.
89'6
¦w
9.0 P.M.
66-6
30
5.15 A.M.
73-4
o
a ¦
17
5.0 A.M.
50-4
7.30 P.M.
93-2
12.0
89-6
* Dr. Baikie (Appendix, p. 425) says that the man from this tribe whom he met had a very
black skin; but nevertheless the greater part of the tribe may have a far lighter color, although
it is most probable that Dr. Baikie's informant would not acknowledge that. The specimens
of the Bati language which Dr. B. gives seem to characterize a tribe entirely distinct from the
Baya or Bayong ; but, nevertheless, it is likely that there exists an original bond of affinity be
tween these two people, and that they belong to one and the same stock, which we may call
the Ba stock. It is very characteristic that all the numerals given by Baikie commence with
» "ba."
652

APPENDLX.

Date.
Hour of the
Day.
Dee;, in
scale of
Fah.
Remarks.
Pate.
Hour of the
Day.
Dea;. in
scale o
Fah.
Remarks.
1850.
1850
May
5.0 A.M.
77
]Ji?
May 2f
7.0 P.M.
85
12.0
102-2
¦S 3
22
6.0 A.M.
71-6
7.0 P.M.
95
12.0
86
2
5.15 A.M.
73-4
a~
2.30 P.M.
90
7.0 P.M.
98-6
f«
7.0 P.M.
84-6
3
5.0 A.M.
73-4
ff.g
23
6.30 A.M.
73-8
12.25
96-8
_-o £
12.0
89-6
8.45 P.M.
82-4
OTCD -t-S
1.30 P.M.
91-4
4
6.30 A.M.
62-6
3.30 P.M.
94
12.0
89-6
<w
7.0 P.M.
91-4
7.20 P.M.
73-4
«J§
11.30 P.M.
82-4
5
1.30 P.M.
89-6
§s§
24
5.45 A.M.
78-8
7.0 P.M.
82-4
Jg
12.15
95
6
No obsr'n.
1.45 P.M.
96-8
7
6.30 A.M.
80-6
(Murzuk.)
10.30 P.M.
89-6
2.0 P.M.
98-6
25
6.15 A.M.
82-4
In the morning a
8
12.30
97-7
A heavy gibleh;
the first time to
day we had a
cool N.E. wind,
which had been
blowing during
the whole night.
covered sky, and
found it in the
12.30
87
course of our res
10.30 P.M.
82-4
idence charac
26
6.0 A.M.
76
At 8 A.M. it began
teristic of Mur
to rain ; but the
zuk in this sea
N.E. wind being
son. Toward
heavy, only lit
tle rain fell in
evening the sky
became general
side the town;
ly clouded.
more, however,
9
12.0
96
in the desert.
7.0 P.M.
93-2
1.0 P.M.
82-4
10
6.30 A.M.
75-2
10.30 P.M.
77
11
6.0 A.M.
73-4
27
6.30 A.M.
72
12
6.30 A.M.
77
3.0 P.M.
90
1.30 P.M.
93-2
7.0 P.M.
85
13
6.0 A.M.
77
10.30 P.M.
78
12.0
87-8
28
6.0 A.M.
71-6
7.0 P.M.
86
12.0
84-2
14
6.45 A.M.
75-2
3.15 P.M.
89-6
12.0
90-5
11.0 P.M.
78
7.0 P.M.
88-7
29
6.0 A.M.
72
15
7.0 A.M.
78
12.0
87
12.0
95
3.0 P.M.
86
The sky in the aft
7.0 P.M.
94
ernoon thickly
1G
6.15 A.M.
75-2
'
10.15 P.M.
80-6
overcast.
12.0
95
30
6.30 A.M.
75-2
11.30 A.M. it be
2.45 P.M.
98-6
gan to rain, the
7.0 P.M.
91-4
rain becoming
17
6.0 A.M.
12.45
80-6 96
gradually heavi
er, and lasting an
hour-; but at naif
2.40 P.M.
98-6
18
7.0 A.M.
12.30 7.0 P.M.
75-29491-4
past 8 o'clock in
the evening the
storm broke forth
19
6.0 A.M.
12.0 3.0 P.M.
7.0 P.M.
77-389-696 91-4
in its full force,
with much light
ning, but little
rain.
20
6.0 A.M.
77
12.0
78-8
12.45
86
10.0 P.M.
80-6
3.0 P.M.
89-6
31
5.45 A.M.
76
21
6.15 A.M.
72
12.0
90
1.0 P.M.
90
2.45 P.M.I
93-2
METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

653

Date.

Hour of tbe
Day.

lee;, in
cale of
Fah.

Remarks.

Date.

Hour of the
Day.

)es. in
calo of
Fah.

Remarks.

1850.

1850.

June
June
1
6.0 A.M.
80-6
19
2.0 P.M.
108-5
12.0
95
20
5.0 A.M.
77
2.0 P.M.
98-6
21
1.0 P.M.
99-5
3.0 :¦ •!.
100-4
22
5.30 A.M.
87
10.30 P.M.
91-4
12.0
99-5
2
7.0 A.M.
85
23
5.30 A.M.
86
12.0
89'6
12.30
102-2
3.0 P.M.
103
tVt 5 P.M. a heavy
11.30 P.M.
86
storm arose from
24
5.15 A.M.
87-8
11.45 P.M.
93-2
the westward.
12.0
101-3
A fresh gale.
3
5.15 A.M.
84-2
25
6.0 A.M.
78
12.0
99
1.30 P.M.
108-5
3.0 P.M.
100-4
7.30 P.M.
98-6
7.0 P.M.
98-6
26
5.0 A.M.
78
The sky toward
10.45 P.M.
89-6
the east covered.
4
6.0 A.M.
12.0
82-896-8
10.30 A.M.
102-2
Twice iu the
morning a few
drops of rain
3.0 P.M.
102-2
10.15 P.M.
91-4
27
5.0 A.M.
69
5
7.0 A.M.
86
12.0
93-2
1.0 P.M.
100-4
7.0 P.M.
90-5
4.0 P.M.
105
28
5.0 A.M.
66-2
10.30 P.M.
93-2
12.0
93-2
6
12.0
95
29
5.30 A.M.
69
2.30 P.M.
100-4
12.30
98-6
7
6.0 A.M.
80-6
7.45 P.M.
85
12.0
86
30
4.50 A.M.
63-5
10.15 P.M.
82-4
1.30 P.M.
103
8
6-0 AM.
12.0
71-684-2
July
7.15 P.M.
87-8
4.15 P.M.
90
1
4.50 AM.
66-2
7-0 P.M.
86
12.0
99-5
9
6.0 A.M.
76
7.30 P.M.
86
12.0
86
2
5.0 A.M.
68
11.0 P.M.
82-4
12.30
100-4
10
6-0 A.M.
2.30 P.M.
11.0 P.M.
76 94
85
7.45 P.M.
83-3
In the afternoon
and tbe follow
ing day very
11
5.0 A.M.
69-8
heavyN.E. gales.
6.30 A.M.
78
3
5.0 A.M.
69
12.30
94
12.0
102-2
12
6.0 A.M.
78-8
7.30 P.M.
91-4
12.0
96-8
4
5.0 A.M.
69-8
7.0 P.M.
95
12.15
107-6
13
5.30 A.M.
80-6
7.30 P.M.
88-7
1.30 P.M.
105
5
4.45 A.M.
70-7
14
5.0 A.M.
70-7
A strong gale.
12.15
91-4
1.30 P.M.
107-6
7.30 P.M.
84-2
15
5.15 A.M.
75-2
6
4.45 A.M.
70-7
12.0
111-2
1.0 P.M.
89-6
7.0 P.M.
932
7.30 P.M.
83-3
16
5.45 A.M.
71-6
7
4.45 A.M.
6 -5
12.0
102-2
12.0
85
In the very cool
1.30 P.M.
105-8
shade of a rock.
7.0 P.M.
94
8
4.45 A.M.
85
17
12.0
111-2
(Encampment in
Tiggerode.)
12.45 9.0 P.M.
102-2 87-8
1.45 P.M.
114-8
Sky covered.
9
4.30 A.M.
75-2
9.0 P.M.
89-6
12.30
105-8
18
5.30 A.M.
77
9.0 P.M.
89-6
12.45
111-2
10
4.30 A.M.
70-7
9.0 P.M.
95
12.0
104
19
5.0 A.M.
77
8.0 P.M
86
654

APPENDIX.

Date.

Hour of the
Day.

Dee. in
scale ol
Fah.

Remarks.

Date.

Hour of the
Day.

Dee;, in
scale o:
Fah.

Remarks.

1850.

1850.

Juby
Aug.
5.0 A.M.
68
10
5.0 A.M.
68
1.0 P.M.
105-8
2.0 P.M.
94
8.30 P.M.
87-8
8.0 P.M.
85
12
5.15 A.M.
65-3
11
5.30 A.M.
73-4
1.0 P.M.
106-7
1.0 P.M.
93-2
8.15 P.M.
89-6
8.0 P.M.
85
13
4.45 A.M.
75-2
12
5.10 A.M.
67
A cool breeze.
12.30
107-6
1.20 P.M.
93-2
7.30 P.M.
95
13
5.30 A.M.
77
14
4.30 A.M.
84-2
(
96-8
( In the cool shade
( of a rock.
12.30
105
1.45 P.M .1
7.30 P.M.
93-2
1
107-6
In aired tent.
15
4.30 A.M.
75-2
^ On these days
14
1.0 P.M.
98-6
Generally a light
18
4.45 A.M.
64-4
1 warm souther-
breeze arose at
2.15 P.M.
105-8
f ly wind.
10 A.M.
19
5.30 A.M.
76
J (Barakat.)
9.30 P.M.
87-8
20-24
(Ghat) no observa
tions.
15
5.0 A.M.
78
The wind to-day
got up at an ear
ly hour, the 'Sky
25
12.30
104
7.45 P.M.
95
becoming more
26
4.45 A.M.
1.15 P.M.
7.0 P.M.
82-4
107-6 97-7
and more cloud
ed, till at 1 P.M.
a heavy storm
27
5.0 A.M.
12.45 7.30 P.M.
75-2
103 93-2
broke forth, fol
lowed by a heavy
shower at two
28
4.15 A.M.
12.45
69-8
104
o'clock, accom
panied by dis
tant thunder.
7.30 P.M.
93-2
29
4.45 A.M.
85
1.0 P.M.
98-6
12.30
99-5
9.15 P.M.
88-7
8.0 P.M.
89-6
16
5.0 A.M.
78-8
For the whole day
30
4.30 A.M.
77
(E'geri.)
the southern sky
was covered with
1.0 P.M.
96-8
8.30 P.M.
89-6
small clouds. —
31
5.0 A.M.
1.0 P.M.
71-693-2
The sun was
piercing. At 2.
30 P.M. a violent
Aug.
1
4.45 A.M.
12.25 8.0 P.M.
66-2
98-685
storm arose in
the east, but did
not break forth
2
5.0 A.M.
8.0 P.M.
68
86
till 4.30 P.M.,
when it was fol
3
4.30 A.M.
67
lowed byaheavy
12.40
105-8
In the afternoon a
shower.
8.15 P.M.
85
light breeze.
(Falesselez.)In the afternoon
12.45
98-6
4
5.0 A.M.
74-3
9.0 P.M.
78-8
12.30
111-2
17
2.0 P.M.
87
clouded sky,
18-30
No obsr'n.
foreboding rain.
31
CO
At 3 P.M. a storm,
8.0 P.M.
91
a
accompanied by
5
5.15 A.M.
75-2
V
a little rain, last
1.0 P.M.
102-2
CO
^3
ing for about an
8.0 P.M.
89-6
O
hour ; farther to
6
5.0 A.M.
68
'rt
southward more
1.0 P.M.
100-4
¦ '&
rain; during the
7
8.0 P.M.
4.45 A.M.
86 96
s
nightanotherfall of rain.
1.0 P.M.
95
Sept.
o a
8.30 P.M.
84-2
1
Fh
Eain the whole of
8
4.45 A.M.
74-3
-n +J
the morning.
1.0 P.M.
95
2
o
A fresh wind.
9
No obsr'n.
4
_ &
A heavy shower in
METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

655

Hour of the
Day.

Dee;, in
scale of
Fah.

Hour of the
Day.

Deo;, in
scale of
Fah.

1850. Sept,

10

13

20

12.30 5.45 A.M.
12.45

9671-6

1.0 P.M.

100-4

5.30 A.M.
1.0 P.M.
6.0 A.M.
12.30 5.30 A.M.
1.0 P.M.

68
81-5 69-899-56999

t

6.0 A.M.
12.0

71-696-8

the morning,last-
ing about two
hours.
(Tintellust.) After
midday a heavy
tornado, follow
ed at 2 P.M. by
a shower, lasting
till 4 P.M.
In the afternoon a
tornado, and rain
till the evening.
Sky the whole day
clear ; no rain.
A very heavy tor
nado in the aft
ernoon from S.S.
W., followed by
much rain, last
ing from 4 P.M.
till 10 P.M.
In the afternoon a
storm gathering
from N.E., but
reaching us from
S.S.W.at3P.M.,
with heavy rain
lastingtill7P.M.
A storm all around
us ; no rain near
us.
No rain.
In the afternoon i
torn ado, with rain
In the afternoon
a storm, without
rain.

- No storm.

£ Fine weather.
At 2 P.M. a storm
gathering from
S.S.W. and N.
N.E., but only
little rain at 3
P.M.
At 1 P.M. a storm,
followed byheavy
rain at 2 P.M.

1850. Sept. 24

^No

storm.

At 2 P.M. a heavy
storm, but with-
out rain.

25

26

27

28

29

30
Oct.

6.15 A.M.
1.0 P.M.

6.0 A.M.
1.30 P.M.
6.45 P.M.
6.45 A.M.
12.30 6.0 P.M.
6.15 A.M.
12.30 6.30 P.M.
6.15 A.M.
12.10

6.20 P.M.
5.40 A.M.
12.15 6.15 P.M.
5.30 A.M.
6.15 P.M.
5.40 A.M.
1.30 P.M.
6.20 P.M
5.45 A.M
12.30 6.45 P.M.
12.30 5.45 A.M.
12.0 6.30 P.M.
12.0 6.15 P.M.
No obsr'n.

6.10 P.M.

73-498-6

64-49583 64-29691-469-89591-475-2 95

86 67
99-5 91-468
93-2 69-8
101-3 9573-4 97-792-391-4

At 2 P.M. a violent
storm, which up
set our tents, and
was accompanied
by heavy rain.

No storm.

At 2 P.M. a heavy
tornado, with but
a few drops of
rain.

Sultry weather,but
no storm.

87

95-7
87-8
100-4 88*7 The last fall of
the rainy season,
1850, setting in
shortly before
noon.and lasting
half an hour.
At 8.30 P.M., while
encamped in th«
valley Boghel, a
meteor fell in
our neighbor
hood with a very
great noise.
From' October 9 till November 8 no obser
vations ; weather generally clear ; cool
in the morning; on October 20, sky a.
little overcast.
Nov.* 43-7 69
47-3

10

r. s.r.

' " Prom thisdate forward the observations were made a quarter of an hour before sunrise (r.)
and half an hour past sunset (s.).

656

APPENDIX.

Date.

Hour of the
Day.

Deg. h
scale o:
Fah.

Remarks.

Date.

Hoar of the
Day.

Dec. ii
scale o:
Fah.

, Remarks.

1850.

1850.

Nov.
Dec.
10
S.
69-8
9
No obsr'n.
Very cold easterly
11
r.
47-3
wind.
s.
66-2
10
r.
43-7
12
r.
43-7
s.
55-4
1.15 P.M.
86
11
r.
41-9
-*-
s.
67-1
s.
59
13
r.
45-5
12
r.
41
Sky not clear.
12.0
77
s.
64-4
5.30 P.M.
66-2
13
r.
41
(Teleshera.)
14
r.
43-7
14
r.
43-7
6.0 P.M.
59-9
s.
64-4
15
fh.bef.r.
50
15
r.
46-4
real r.
41-9
s.
57-2
s.
66-2
16
r.
50
16
r.
46-4
s.
63-5
s.
67-1
17
r.
50
17
r.
47-3
s.
64-4
s.
69-8
18
I.
48-2
18
r.
48-2
a.
65-3
s.
69-8
19
r.
46-4
19
r.
50
s.
64-4
s.
68
20
r.
55-4
20
r.
50
s.
64-4
s.
68
21
r.
54-5
21
r.
48-2
s.
72-5
s.
68
22
r.
45-5
22
r.
50
23
r.
53-6
s.
68
s.
71-6
23
r.
48-2
Sky covered; and
windy.
24
r.s.
54-572-5
s.
65-3
25
r.
52-7
24
r.
48-2
Sky very cloudy.
s.
73-4
s.
67
26
r.
59
25
r.
50
The weather clear
ed up.
27
s.
No obsr'n.
69-8
s.
68
28
r.
54-5
The sky at sunrise
26
r.
50
now in general
s.
68
s.
74-3
overcast.
27
r.
50
29
r.
59
s.
71-6
s.
77
28
r.
50
30
r.
56-3
Very cold N.E.
s.
71-6
s.
wind.
29
r.
51-8
Sky covered.
31
r.
51-8
The cold wind con
30
s.
r. s.
72-557-274-3
At 9.30 A.M. the
sun broke forth.
1851. Jan.
s.
60-8
tinuing.
Dec.
1
r.
48-2
The same cold
1
r. s.
52-7 72-5
wind ; it fell
about an hour
2
r.
51
after sunrise.
s.
68
2
r.
45-5
The same coldN.E.
3
r. s.
53-6 66-2
s.
60-8
wind; it abated
about 7 P.M.
4
r.
46-4
3
r.
48-2
s.
71-6
s.
60-8
5
r.
58-1
Sky very cloudy.
4
r.
51-8
s.
78
5
r.
51-8
The sun generaUy
G
r. s.
57-272-5
overcast at sun
rise.
7
r.
54-5
6
r.
59
The sky thickly
8
s.r.
71-6 50
s.
66-2
clouded ; light
rain.
METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

657

Date.

Hoar of the
Day.

Dee. in
scale of
Fah.

Remarks.

Date.

Hour of tho
Day.

Dee. in
scale of
Fah.

Romarlifl.

1851.

1851.

Jan.
Mar.
7
r.
60-8
The sky thickly
21
No obsv'n.
s.
75-2
clouded; a few
drops of rain.
22
r.
68
Thick fog in the
morning, the sun.
8
r.s.
60-877
not coming forth
till past noon.
9
r.
57-2
noon.
91-4
10
r.
56-3
23
Morning foggy.
s.
69-8
24
noon.
95
Mornmg clear,
11
r. s.
53-673-4
northerl}1" wind
arose.
12
r.
48-2
25
No obsv'n.
13
s.
71-6
26
noon.
100-4
11
r.
57-2
27
noon.
98-6
s.
73-4
28
No obsv'n.
Sky turbid and dull ,
15
r.
57-2
easterly wind.
s.
71-6
29
noon.
98-6
17
s.
73-4
April
18
r.
59
1
noon.
96-8
Same sky, over
19
No obsv'n.
cast with thick
20
r. s.
5071-6
clouds ; wind, as
in general, east
21
r.
44-6
erly.
22-26'No obsv'n.
10
r.
69-8
(Kukawa.)Sky a little over
27
r.
66-2
14
r.
78-8
s.
77
cast.-
28
r.
59
Cold wind in tbe
afternoon.
noon. s.
105-8 93-2
29
r.
66
15
r.
77
30
No obsv'n.
1.0 P.M.
100
31
s.
69-8
16
r.
69-8
Feb.
No obsv'n.
noon.
104
Mar.
17
r.
69-8
First
\Noobser-
noon.
98-6
half
j vatiou.
s.
91-4
2,3
Sky cloudy(Kano).
18
r.
68
18
r.
64-4
noon.
100-4
1.0 P.M.
109
s.
87-8
19
No obsv'n.
19
r.
74
20
r.
70-3
s.
89-6
The few thermometrical observations made by Mr. Overweg differ partially from
mine, owing to tbe different situations we gave to our thermometers. I have always
endeavored to raise the thermometer five or six feet from the ground, and to prevent
its being influenced bv any object. I have always looked for the best shade. Over
weg marks, under December 5, a quarter of an hour before sunrise, 46-4,_and at sun
set, 66-2; under December 9, where I have made no observation, he gives 48-2 at
sunrise, and 59 at sunset. December 11, he gives 38 -3 half an hour before sunrise,
and December 12, about the same time, 37-4.
Vol. I.— T t
END OF VOLUME I.